Haynes Mazda6 2003 thru 2012 Automotive Repair Manual [61043] 1620920735, 9781620920732

Citation preview

Viazda Viazda6 2003 thru 2012

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

Includes essential information for today’s more complex vehicles

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Mazda6é automotive

repair manual /

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06/05/14

Mazda6 Automotive Repair Manual by Jeff Killingsworth and John H Haynes _ Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Mazda6 - 2003 through 2012 Does not include information specific to all-wheel drive or turbocharged models

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AUTOMOTIVE PARTS & MESSRS MEMBER

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park California 91320 USA

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© Haynes North America, Inc. 2011, 2013 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN-13: 978-1-62092-073-2 ISBN-10: 1-62092-073-5 Library of Congress Control Number: 2013943770 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 13-320

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction Vehicle identification numbers Recall information

0-5 0-5 0-6 0-7

Buying parts

0-9

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Jacking and towing Booster battery (jump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents Safety first! Troubleshooting

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

0-9 0-16 0-17 0-18 0-19 0-20 0-21 0-22

1-1

Chapter 2 PartA Four-cylinder engines

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B V6 engines

2B-1

Chapter 2 Part C General engine overhaul procedures

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

6-1

Chapter 7 PartA Manual transaxle

TA-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-1

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-19

Index

IND-1

Haynes mechanic and photographer with a 2007 Mazda6

About this manual Its purpose The purpose ofthis manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It-can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair _ procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be _ saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead

costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

tion 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text,

are not normally repeated. When it’s neces-

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Sec-

sary to refer to another Chapter, the reference

will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example,

“see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the infor-

mation given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or merration which will make the procedure easier to viet ible

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Mazda6 This manual covers the Mazda6. There are several engines available: a 2.3L-DOHC,

The engine drives the front wheels through either a five- or six-speed manual or

16-valve (VVT) in-line four-cylinder engine

four-, five- or six-speed automatic transaxle

(engine code L3); a 2.5L-DOHC, 16-valve (VVT) in-line four-cylinder engine (engine

via independent driveaxles. The suspension is independent at all four wheels; coil spring/shock absorber assemblies are used at the front with parallel upper and lower control arms, and coil springs and tele-

code L5);.a 3.0L-DOHC, 24-valve (VVT) V6 engine (engine code AJ); and a 3.7L-DOHC, '24-valve (VVT) (engine code MZ1).

scopic shock absorbers at the rear with upper and lower control arms and trailing arms. The rack-and-pinion steering unit is mounted on the suspension crossmember. The brakes are disc at the front and rear, with power assist standard. An Anti-lock

Brake System models.

(ABS) is standard on some

Vehicle identification numbers Manufacturer’s Certification Regulation label

Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacturing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

The Manufacturer’s Certification Regulation label is attached to the driver’s side door opening (see illustration). The label contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) and the certification statement.

Vehicle Identification

Number (VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the dashboard inside the windshield on the driver’s side of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012

Engine number

VIN engine code Counting from the left, the engine code letter designation is the 8th character. On all models covered by this manual the engine codes are:

Cae

2.3L four-cylinder engine (2008 and earlier models) Agi 2.5L four-cylinder engine (Made in Mexico) (2009 and later models) Bees. 2.5L four-cylinder engine (Made in Hiroshima) (2009 and later models) Dink. 3.0L V6 engine (2008 and earlier models) Brass 3.7L V6 engine (2009 and later models)

On four-cylinder models, the engine identification number is stamped into a machined

pad on the front side of the engine under the exhaust manifold. On V6 models, the engine identification number is stamped into a machined pad on

the left front end (driver’s side) of the engine block (see illustration).

Transaxle identification G35M-R, 5-speed manual transaxle (2008 and earlier four-cylinder models) A65M-R,

5-speed

manual

transaxle

(2008 and earlier V6 models) G66M-R, 6-speed (2009 and later models)

manual

transaxle

FN4A-EL, 4-speed automatic transaxle

(2006 and earlier four-cylinder models)

VIN model year code Counting from the left, the model year code letter designation is the 10th character. On all models covered by this manual the model year codes are:

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is visible through the driver’s side of the windshield

Bey LScee eeen (I RE TERR Fires cA Onlvarshcmeipestes dea Oa eu ceean Bes theese Rah tes Buen actcicaess coe Cae sone

JA5A-EL,

5-speed automatic transaxle

(2005 and earlier V6 models) FS5A-EL, 5-speed automatic transaxle (2007 and later four-cylinder models and 2006 V6 models) AW6A-EL

and

El, 6-speed

automatic

transaxle (2007 and later V6 models)

a MAZDA MOTORCORPORATION KADEINUSA.

DATE. 03/07...

il

ERAL

VEHICLE SAFETY, BUMPER, AND THEFT PREVENTION STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE SOM Aor

Milkiu

VIN: TYVHP84DX75M49803 TYPE: Passenger Car

1200703166576 The Manufacturer’s Certification Regulation label is located on the driver’s door opening

Location of the engine identification number - V6 engine

Recall information Vehicle recalls are carried out by the manufacturer in the rare event of a possible safety-related defect. The vehicle’s registered owner is contacted at the address on file at the Department of Motor Vehicles and given the details of the recall. Remedial work is carried out free of charge at a dealer service department. If you are the new owner of a used vehi-

cle which was subject to a recall and you want to be sure that the work has been carried out, it's best to contact a dealer service depart-

ment and ask about your individual vehicle you'll need to furnish them your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). The table below is based on information provided by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), the body

Recall date

Recall campaign number

Model(s) affected

JUN 02, 2003

03V206000

2003 Mazda6

which oversees vehicle recalls in the United

States. The recall database is updated constantly. Note: This a partial list containing only the Mazda dealer recalls. There are additional aftermarket recalls available. For the latest information on vehicle recalls, check the NHTSA website at www.nhtsa.gov, or call the

NHTSA hotline at 1-888-327-4236.

On some models, the socket holder in the fog lights is installed in the lamp casing using pressure. During operation of the fog light, the heat from the bulb/can expand the socket holder. The expansion can force the socket holder rearward. After repeatedly being subject to this expansion, if the fog light is also subjected to vibration during vehicle operation, the socket holder with the bulb holder and the wiring harness may separate from the fog light casing.

Should this occur, the bulb socket and the harness can drop inside the bumper and possibly but rarely, the heat generated by the bulb can cause the bumper to burn.

On certain passenger vehicles, the fuel sender DEC

16, 2003

03V531000

2003

Mazda6

DEC

09, 2004

04582000

2004

Mazda6

unit (FSU) may have been improperly installed in the fuel tank, producing an inadequate seal, and fuel may leak. A fire could occur in the presence of an ignition source On certain passenger vehicles, the right and/ or left rear seat belts may not lock properly due to missing retaining pins on the housing. The locking mechanism of the seat belt retractor may malfunction, increasing the risk of death or serious injury to the rear seat passengers in the event of a crash. Passengers should not sit, and child seats should not be used, in the right or left rear seats until this defect has been corrected.

0-8

Recall information Recall date

Recall campaign number

Model(s) affected

SEP 26, 2007

03V207000

2003 Mazda6

PL

concer

aaa

Certain passenger vehicles fail to comply with requirements of federal motor vehicle safety standard No. 135, “passenger car brake sys-

tems”. During production, the float in the fluid level sensor in the brake reservoir can be forced off of the guide rail during the filling of the master cylinder. Should this occur, it is possibie that the float will not return to the guide rail and the brake fluid level warning indicator may not function.

AUG 08, 2008

08V412000

2007 and 2008 Mazda6

On some models with California emission specifications, the metal fuel tanks may have had the PVC protective coating on the outside of the fuel tank damaged during the assembly process, which may result in reduced corrosion resistance. This could lead to perforation of the fuel tank, causing fuel leakage. Fuel leakage in the presence of an ignition source could result in a fire. The outer door handles may stick which may prevent the door from latching. This situation may allow the door to open while the vehicle is in motion. Driving the vehicle with the door unlatched ‘could lead to an unbelted occupant being ejected and could result in injury or death.

FEB 25, 2011

11V134000

2009 and 2010 Mazca6

On some models, a certain type of spider may weave a web in the evaporative canister vent line and this may cause a restriction in the ‘ine. If this occurs, the fuel tank pressure may become excessively negative when the emission control system works to purge the vapors from the canister. As the canister is purged repeatedly during normal operation, the stress on the fuel tank may eventually result in a crack, potentially leading to fuel leakage and an increased risk of fire.

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on

an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts,

parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general

transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.).

vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs,

is still covered

etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far

from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

Warranty information: under

\|f the vehicle

warranty,

be

sure

that any replacement parts purchased regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type,

either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of repiacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and

at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers removed

and lockwashers, when from an assembly, should always

be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is impor-

tant to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

(the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which

is an

indication

of the

amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the

strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automobiles. Metric bolts

have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers

8.8, 9.8 and

10.9 are commonly

used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked

with a number.

The greater the number of

dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as

USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 5

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, © studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break,

while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a

Grade 8

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Identification

Grade Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 5

Property Class 9

Identification , —~— é

é

Arabic 9 Ls.

Hex Nut

Hex Nut Grade 8

*

\

Class 10 6 Dots

Standard hex nut strength markings

Class 10.9 Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as

Metric ES ase SR IESGCB)... [OPE a Niet

cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

ened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts

or nuts

should

been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the pro-

cedure would be reversed.

be

assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should

Component disassembly

be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that

cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has

thread sizes TAMA ur i asa SN ea a SI TES Se ee ee Aad cae amet aes eh A eee Ore RAE re a ca eile cams SU ama He

Ft-Ibs 6 to 9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm 9to 12 19 to 28 38to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

Pipe thread sizes 5 to8

7 to 10

Airmail ee AN BiO We aren Nar nt ye oul ann ca Co enn ay ce ola tT ay ei

12 to 18 22 to 33 25 to 35

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

U.S. thread sizes HUARePAQUN ede aa ie denen I a ec EY) SUIS) EER Sas EDS Oe Seances esMavi aa AM SIRMMMIIG RRA ee eee see paleo Weak Uk as B/Biewe erste) OMI Mee AL Lees 2m TAGE ence en cot ane ab ley eee a WAIN = 20s aS Se ac NN ad are Pes 1S BNR CODE) ON Per IR oo

6 to9 12 to 18 14 to 20 22 to 32 27 to 38 40 to 55 40 to 60 55 to 80

9 to 12

Opera

Sere ba abhod ibs ANS

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G_ L__ T D_

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches) Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

0-11

SA AME SG

17 19 30 37 55 55 75

to to to to to to to

24 27 43 51 74 81 108

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) O4r-D Diameter

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Dial indicator set

Micrometer set

bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very

not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. Caution: Never use gasket removal solutions or caustic chemicals on plastic or other composite components. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces

small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator,

to be scraped,

valve train or interior dash and trim pieces.

of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of

the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust

washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the

disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent

mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold

the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount

The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can

be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do

the method

which

reduces

the chance

used, the mating surfaces must

be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C

hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove

a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be care-

ful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do

not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the

basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the

experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Dial caliper

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Damper/steering wheel puller

Hydraulic lifter removal tool

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

2 oN oes

KS

Torque angle gauge

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench. Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch

Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the

capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic . should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2inch drive set.

Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch

Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench

Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2)

Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber)

Drain pan

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch)

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use, between

0-15

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities yourself and a friend or friends. In addition,

most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools

are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be | purchased or borrowed, the work should be

turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter

Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just start__ ing to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satis-

factory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be’ a good idea to purchase

a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source ) of some of the special tools that are needed,

but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes

sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on

a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should

be kept in a tool

box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where

they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

damaged threads in straight-through holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole,

then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch.

Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of com-

fortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned

previously, some

clean,

dry storage space is also required for tools,

How to repair damaged threads

vents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-toocommon occurrence, especially when work-

from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the

ing with aluminum

parts, because

as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning sol-

aluminum

is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are

only partially stripped. After they’ve been

cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When choices:

this happens, you’ve got three

1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud.

2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy 2 plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded

plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained

used fluids into large containers, seal them

with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal

for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to

service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-16

Jacking and towing Jacking

being changed. Set the parking brake.

Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground.

stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring (if so equipped) with the tapered end of the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the wheel cover. Loosen, but do not remove,

Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an auto-

matic, or Reverse ifyou have a manual transaxle.

Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel

Remove the spare tire and jack from

the lug nuts (one-half turn is sufficient). Place the scissors-type jack under the vehicle and adjust the jack height until it engages with the proper jacking point. There

is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration). Turn the jack handle cloc..wise until the tire clears the ground. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off, then install the spare. Install the lug nuts with the beveled edges facing in. Tighten them snugly. Don’t attempt to tighten them completely until the vehicle is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and tighten the lug nuts in a diagonal pattern. Stow the tire, jack and wrench. Unblock the wheels.

Towing Place the jack between the raised welts on the rocker panel flange nearest the wheel

to be changed

These vehicles can be towed from the front with the front wheels off the ground, using a wheel lift type tow truck. If towed from the rear, the front wheels must be placed on a

dolly. A sling-type tow truck cannot be used, as body damage will result. The best way to tow the vehicle is with a flat-bed car carrier. In an emergency the vehicle can be towed a short distance with a cable or chain attached to one of the towing eyelets located under the front or rear bumpers. The driver must remain in the vehicle to operate the steering and brakes (remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off).

+s

0-17

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each

Dead battery

Booster battery

battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the body. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

—

[00-3 HAYNES HAYNES]

Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-18

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove brake dust, grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes

oxidation,

corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also

be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connec-

tors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive and non-corrosive. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or

solvent.

Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 0 to 50. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands

on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from OW-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in difmanual

molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is‘a drytype lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is elec-

trically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is. essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely

Lubricants

ferentials,

atures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains

transmissions

and other

areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is

a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temper-

used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove,

and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on

liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound

prevents seiz-

ing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion

in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts.

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating

is a petroleum-based,

tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle

from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the _ weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-19

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft)

25.4 0.305 1.609

:

Miles

Volume (capacity)

0.0394 3.281 0.621

= Millimeters (mm) = Meters (m)

= Kilometers (km)

= Cubic inches (cu in; in°)

OX KK KX x

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833 0.264 0.035 2.205

= Ounces (oz)

xX x

= Ounces-force

= Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) = Newtons (N)

0.070

= Kilograms-force per square

14.223

= Pounds-force per square inch

0.068

= Atmospheres (atm)

14.696

= Pounds-force per square inch

0.069

= Bars

14.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

6.895

= Kilopascals (kPa)

0.145

= Pounds-force per square inch

16.387 = Cubic centimeters (cc; cm’)

Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

0.568 1.137 1.201 0.946 4.546 1.201 KK KX KKK x 3.785

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US gallons (US gal)

= Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

= Liters (I)

= Liters (|)

= US quarts (US qt) = Liters (I) = Liters (|) = US gallons (US gal) = Liters (I)

= Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) || Imperial quarts (Imp qt) = = = =

US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight) 28.35

Ounces (oz) Pounds (Ib)

= Grams (g)

x< x 0.454

= Kilograms (kg)

0.278 4.448 x< XX 0.1

= Newtons (N)

= Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) Newtons (N)

= Newtons

(N)

(ozf; 02)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; tb/in?) Pounds-force per square inch

centimeter (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi: Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in; |b/in)

(psi; Ibf/in?; tb/in?) Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; tb/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

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12-28

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Chapter 12

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12-30

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Air conditioning, heating and engine cooling fan system (automatic) - 2008 and earlier V6 models (1 of 2)

Chapter 12

WATER

PASSENGER

TEMPERATURE

COMPARTMENT

SENSOR

TEMPERATURE

”

Chassis electrical system

EVAPORATOR TEMPERATURE SENSOR

AMBIENT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

12-31

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Air conditioning, heating and engine cooling fan system (automatic) - 2008 and earlier V6 models (2 of 2)

12-32

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system KY

GRN/WHT

(W/ ADVANCED KEYLESS ENTRY & PUSH BUTTON

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Chapter 12 HOT AT EMV

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12-34

Chapter 12 HOT AT ALL TIMES ARERR

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.

‘Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

12-35

Waiti BLLTIMES. FUSE & P WINDOW_ —]| MAIN heeepeee RELAY BOX | % 30A [EGS ene he] RED/ YEL

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FA (M)

RIGHT REAR POWER WINDOW MOTOR

12-36

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

f

HOT AT AL TIMES — |Main FUSE BLOCK

i Hans i(MAIN FUSE& |

$30A

| RELAY BOX) -

opel RED/YEL -——7\___GRN/BLK @ —GRNIBLK | eae an LE Tee i. Aubeat BCM

MIRRORS SYSTEM

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EELS

DEL CL STAI

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12-38

Chapter 12 HOT AT ALL TIMES fs aa \ P WIND (D) |

|

Chassis electrical system

a

> MAIN | FUSE BLOCK

FUSE

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|

steps et Spaeth es 4

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1

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

HOT IN ON OR START

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Power window system (with pinch protection) - 2009 and later models (2 of 2)

12-40

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system HOT AT ALL TIMES init Cee ae = MAIN |FUSE BLOCK P WIND (P) FUSE 25A

RED/ BLU

a f

WHTIBLUth ——a

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RIGHT REAR POWER WINDOW MOTOR

s

Chapter 12 HOT IN RUN OR START (i ]SANT

Ge — FUSE BLOCK

12-41

Chassis electrical system

HOT AT ALL TIMES rc

— ~~ ~ 7 MAIN FUSE

| |

| | | |

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W/ ADVANCED KEYLESS ENTRY & PUSH BUTTON START SYSTEM

Power window system (without pinch protection) - 2009 and later models (2 of 2)

|

12-42

Chapter 12 HOT AT ALL TIMES

Chassis electrical system

HOT IN ON OR START

HOT AT ALLTIMES IETS

Gi OAT

a

OPENER FUSE 7.5A

BLU/ RED

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e

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Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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HOT AT ALL TIMES

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12-44

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Power door lock system - 2009 and later models

LEFT FRONT DOOR LATCH & LOCK ACTUATOR

Chapter 12 ORG sai

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FRONT INCAR

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Chassis electrical system

12-45

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12-46

Chapter 12

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W/ ADVANCED KEYLESS 2 ENTRY & PUSH BUTTON START SYSTEM

18

12-48

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

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Chapter 12

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12-49

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12-50

Chapter 12

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12-52

Chapter 12

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.

12-54

Chapter 12

HOTAT T MAIN MES FUSE

BLOCK {

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Exterior lighting system (except headlights) - 2009 and later models

2

|

|

12-56

Chapter 12

| | | | | | | | | | | | | L

HOT AT ALL TIMES

HOT AT ALL TIMES

r

Chassis electrical system HOT AT

HOT IN ACC OR START “ALL TIMES OR ON METER IG METER room FUSE ACG FUSE 415A FUSE 15A 5A

HOT IN ON

FUSE & RELAY BOX

FOG FUSE 154A

| | | | J

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|

LT GRN

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|

HEADLIGHT SWITCH OFF

RED/WHT

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ue CLK, | ~~

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ind

ees

| | | |

|

| FRONT FOG |LIGHT SWITCH

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BRN LT GRN

LT GRN

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=

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x

GRN/BLK

a

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a

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INTERIOR LIGHTS SYSTEM

LT GRN/BLK > COMPUTER DATA LINES RED/BLK ORG/BLK . WIPERWASHER sheet SYSTEM

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Headlight system (with Daytime Running Lights) - 2009 and later models

‘

=

j

7

{

| \

Chapter 12

HOTAT

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Chassis electrical system

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|

|

LIGHT SWITCH

Headlight system (without Daytime Running Lights) - 2009 and later models

JOINT | BOX |

Dag hitonstn GRN/BLK

GRN/ BLK AT 3.0L GRN/ BLK

MT 2.3L

AIT 2.31

GRN/ BLK

GRN/ BLK

: N

F

r

GRN/ BLK

GRN/ BLK

GRN/ BLK

GRN/ BLK

BACK-UP LIGHT RELAY

BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH

,

[— “7S TRANSAXLE | | RANGE | SWITCH

.

EN

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RED/ YEL

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| ORG!

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f |

RIGHT (€) BACK-UP LIGHT BLK

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|

ick Back-up light system - 2005 and earlier models

e

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system HOT AT ALLTIMES __

“FUSE BLOCK

ROOM FUSE

|

145A

| SUN

12-63

| |

POM: SA

BLU/ RED e

eaten

BLU/RED | RED/YEL \——— >

| NAVIGATION

RED/YEL )

RED/YEL RED/ YEL

GRNIWHT [gsi me BODY CONTROL MODULE

| e

3.0L AT

2.3L AIT

M/T

cawsux| GRN/| BLK

em

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ae H BLK

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ee GRN/ BLK

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Ny . RED/ | YEL

Hs

RED/YEL a ey

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AUTO DIMMING MIRROR

Back-up light system - 2006 through 2008 models

12-64

Chapter 12 HOT W/1G1 RELAY | HOTINON ENERGIZED “ORSTART

HOT AT ALLTIMES

FUSE BEOCK tesinearinar icomer

ne | 154 |

| (Cea ORG/ BLU

nara) alo etleaRteNala ae

MAIN FUSE BACKUP |

LIGHT

UTIL hippuesta ne|b at uA

eto

t

| | |

& f K a

é

|

|

|

| |

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2)

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|

| |

|

|

|

aaa Me TCM

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|

|

‘

RED/ GRN

/| ORG/BLU

|

;

REA | (3.7L). |

||

METER IG | | 4 HAZARD FUSE | | ¢ FUSE Sane eR pape aan) as GRN/ |

|

|

9

GRN/BLK

(arnt

|

HOT AT ALLTIMES

ech

aS

;

|

Chassis electrical system

RED/GRN , e

GRN/ORG GRN/YEL

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eres ~

+

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NCA .. GRN/ORG

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BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH

-

| LEFT (@) BACKUP LIGHT

—-

NCA | | | | | NCA 4 es TRANSAXLE RANGE SWITCH (2.5L)

'

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i 4

GRN/ORG

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a

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bd

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Back-up light system - 2009 and later models

Chapter 12 ST

OS

Chassis electrical system

SS SE

ST

12-65

SE

SE

aT

HOT AT

r ALLTIMES _ _ | | | L

BLU/ RED SEDAN BLU/

HATCHBACK/ WAGON BLU/ RED

BLU/RED

BLU/RED

BRN TRUNK COMPARTMENT LIGHT ;

CARGO COMPARTMENT LIGHT

BRN

BLK ——eer LY TRUNK

i

4!

:

BRN |

BRN

BLK

‘|p +

COMPARTMENT

LIGHT SWITCH

SEDAN

HATCHBACK/ WAGON

CARGO COMPARTMENT LIGHT SWITCH

BLU/RED ‘ LEFT COURTESY LIGHT

BLU/RED YEUBLK

> eeeeinnnennanEEEEEEEEEne e

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RIGHT COURTESY LIGHT

fA

ia |

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4

;

|

|

DOOR LOCK CONTROL MODULE

4

dhe: |

L

:

THEFT DETERRENT CONTROL MODULE

®

BLU/

li

BLU/

RED

REAR MAP LIGHT .

ee

e

|

+

BLK

BLK

2

Interior lighting system - 2006 and earlier models

RED

LEFT VANITY MIRROR

a

GD gai rae 1

;

1

| ae

2

RIGHT VANITY MIRROR

CG) tig

a

BLK

12-66

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system HOT AT ein eS “FUSE ROOM |BLOCK | FUSE | |

415A

PACA

iy ty

BLU/| RED BLU/ RED

| |

\

BLU/ RED HATCHBACK/ WAGON

SEDAN

SS

BLU/ RED

BLU/RED

BLU/ RED BLU/RED

BRN TRUNK COMPARTMENT LIGHT BRN BLK

}--——

TRUNK COMPARTMENT LIGHT SWITCH

BRN

e@

,

||:

BRN

r)

Ben

BRN

BLK

SEDAN

HATCHBACK/ WAGON

BLU/RED

NCA

ip “alll

ea ey

©)

CARGO COMPARTMENT LIGHT

NCA

CARGO COMPARTMENT LIGHT SWITCH

YEL/BLK

LEFT COURTESY LIGHT ————.

BLU/RED

Q

YEU/BLK

rer,

BRN

e

re

RIGHT

COURTESY LIGHT | ~~ | | | | |

1

YEUBLK BRN BLU/RED BLU/RED SURED YEUBLK

BLU/

BLU/

RED

RED

BLU/RED &

e

|

pce CONTROL BODY MODULE

BLU/ ed

e@

e BLU/ RED BLU/ RED

FRONT

BLU/ RED

REAR

MAP LIGHT

MAP LIGHT

LEFT VANITY MIRROR ILLUM

BLK/ORG (OR BLk)

YEL/ BLK

BLK

BLK/ORG (OR BLK)

BLK/ORG (OR BLK)

BLK/ORG

&

Interior lighting system - 2007 and 2008 models

RIGHT VANITY MIRROR ILLUM

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system HOT AT ALL TIMES - 7 — 7 “FUSE ROOM |BLOCK | FUSE | | 15A | PI esse

RIGHT FRONT DOOR LATCH & LOCK ACTUATOR

po BLWORG 4 BLK/YEL ‘G30e 5 aaa ee

(1) 2),

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4,

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LEFT REAR DOOR LATCH & LOCK ACTUATOR

LEFT VANITY MIRROR ILLUMINATION

BLK/GRN . BLK pa RESIN 9Sh at BLK/RED LS RIGHT REAR DOOR LATCH & LOCK ACTUATOR

ORG/BLU RIGHT VANITY MIRROR ILLUMINATION

ORG/BLU

BLK/RED ORG/BLU ee ne ee CONDENSER

ORG/BLU

ORG/BLU

e

BLK/YEL e AEE

BLK/BLU

©) TRUNK COMPARTMENT LIGHT

ON MEMORY

ORG/BLU

BLK/BLU BCM

ORG/ YEL|

ORG/ YEL

BLK/ YEL

¢ BLK

BLK/ YEL

se

BLK

( pain i

| a a TRUNK COMPARTMENT SWITCH

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> Toe, @

)

esti aas

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)

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,

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ORG/YEL

RIGHT GROUND ILLUMINATION LIGHT

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BLK/YEL

BLK/ | ORG/ YEL YEL INTERIOR LIGHT

OFF

ON

Interior lighting system - 2009 and later models

12-68

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

HOT AT

ALL TIMES

Thaeaid

MAIN

RELAY

2FUSE

BOX

400A (2.3L) 420A (3.0L)

HOT IN ON

HOT IN ACC

HOT AT

OR START_

OR RUN

ALL TIMES

if

METER

| |

FUSE 15A

|

IG

ye

METER

ROOM

| BOX

FUSE 5A

15A

| |

ACC

FUSE

le LT GRN/ RED

J LT GRN/ RED

LT GRN/ RED

‘GRN/ BLK

GRN

BLU/ RED

GRN/

BLU/

BLK

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BLU/

RED]

RED

BLU/GRN

GRN/BLK

BRN/

ba tN apaa as IW irveal

| | |

|

RED

HEADLIGHT SWITCH

BLK/BLU LT GRN/RED fe)

Vie | a |

LT GRN/

vA

4 |

RED

BLK/RED

——— oy

g

8

= =|

9

izpy

6

BLKORS

LT GRN/

GRN

|

GRN/BLK

|

Ee INSTRUMENT

GRN/ORG BRN/RED

CLUSTER anaes

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|

| |

|

BLK

BLK/YEL

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|

. _BLK/RED

ett

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CLIMATE CONTROL UNIT

AUTO LIGHT-OFF CONTROL MODULE

(W/ AUTO A/C)

1 =

BLK/RED GRN/BLK

BLU/RED EE)

ial

LT GRN/RED

a

BLU/BLK

To)

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: BLK/YEL

o

. LT GRN/RED

BLK/BLU

= (@) 3

SYSTEMS yb

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eee BLK/

PANEL LIGHT

le

ASHTRAY

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® ——

LT GRN/RED

iy

BLK/ORG

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YEL

CONTROL SWITCH ———),

|

|

7

BLK/YEL

BLK/YEL

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ry

\] LT GRN/ RED

GLOVE COMPARTMENT LIGHT

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER & WARNING SYSTEMS

LT GRN/

= ‘stages NCA ————__»+__|_-— A | |

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| |

|

|

| |

|

| NCA

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|

(@)

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|

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STEERING WHEEL

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igen RED

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SPRING

BLK/YEL

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SNENT

COMPONENT

BLK/YEL

LT GRN/ BLK

RED/ BLU LEFT

FRONT DOOR SWITCH

GRN/ ORG RIGHT

FRONT DOOR SWITCH

Instrument panel and switch illumination - 2005 and earlier models

LEFT

REAR DOOR SWITCH

2 |

Piabs Sear 8 SELECTOR

e

ry KO

| 3| a

(W/ SEAT WARMER)

an

|

|

ea | | |

LT GRN/RED a ,,— — — — | =E

ANTI-THEFT

SWITCH ILLUM (W/ AUDIO.

|

LEFT SEAT WARMER SWITCH

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| [Se

A

M

>|

|

|

fee

(Greaetinal

GRN/ ORG

BLK

LT GRN/RED

__|

ibebiecs

)

BLK

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WARMER SWITCH (W/ SEAT WARMER)

e

GRN/ ORG

= = |

|

RIGHT SEAT

ee

ERGO NELC

ILLUMINATION (W/ ABS)

@)

|

popes I RED/BLU |

BLU/BLK

[Hey

|

BLU/RED

RED

. = |

Bie Me |

BLU/GRN RED/WHT

RIGHT

REAR DOOR SWITCH

Chapter 12

i

HOT AT ALL TIMES

|

Chassis electrical system

MAIN FUSE &

MAIN

RELAY

FUSE

BOX

120A

HOTINON OR START

fg

HOT IN ACC OR RUN

|

METER

|

145A

FUSE

|

12-69 HOT AT ALL TIMES

METER

ROOM

FUSE

15A

ACC 5A

L |

| |

|

GRN/| BLK

:

GRN/ BLK

GRN}

— BLU/ RED

ILLUM FUSE 10A

I

—

a

BRN/} RED

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|

|

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| | |

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FUSE

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BLKIYEL

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CONTROL UNIT

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a

BLU/BLK

LT.GRN

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iu

4

oe ae (W/ ABS)

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BLK/ YEL

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a

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|

LT GRN/ RED

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_,.—-——]

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PANEL LIGHT CONTROL SWITCH

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Ol, Maxima all models '93 thru ’04 Murano ‘03 thru ‘10 Pick-ups ’80 thru ’97 Pathfinder ’87 thru ’95

Rodeo, Amigo & Honda Passport ’89 thru ’02 Trooper & Pick-up ’81 thru ’93

JAGUAR 49010 49011 49015

72010 72011 72015 72016 72020 72021 72025 72030

Camry all models ’83 thru ’91 Camry all models ’92 thru ’96 Camry, Avalon, Solara, Lexus ES 300 ’97 thru ’01 Toyota Camry, Avalon and Solara and Lexus ES 300/330 all models ’02 thru ’06 Camry ‘07 thru ‘11 Celica Rear Wheel Drive ’71 thru ’85 Celica Front Wheel Drive ’86 thru ’99 Celica Supra all models ’79 thru 92 Corolla all models ’75 thru ’79 Corolla all rear wheel drive models ’80 thru ’87 Corolla all front wheel drive models ’84 thru ’92 Corolla & Geo Prizm ’93 thru 02 Corolla models ’03 thru 11 Corolla Tercel all models ’80 thru ’82 Corona all models ’74 thru ’82 Cressida all models ’78 thru ’82 Land Cruiser FJ40, 43, 45, 55 ’68 thru ’82 Land Cruiser FJ60, 62, 80, FZJ80 ’80 thru ’96 Matrix & Pontiac Vibe ’03 thru ’11 MR2 all models ’85 thru ’87 Pick-up all models ’69 thru ’78 Pick-up all models ’79 thru 95 Tacoma, 4Runner, & T100 ’93 thru ’04 Tacoma all models ’05 thru ’09 Tundra ’00 thru ’06 & Sequoia ’01 thru ’07 4Runner all models ’03 thru ’09 Previa all models ’91 thru ’95 Prius all models '01 thru ’08 RAV4 all models ’96 thru ‘10 Tercel all models ’87 thru ’94 Sienna all models ’98 thru ’09 Highlander & Lexus RX-330 ’99 thru '07

94007 94010

Spitfire all models ’62 thru ’81 TR7 all models ’75 thru ’81

Vw 96008 96009 96016

96020 96030

96035 96040 96045

Beetle & Karmann Ghia ’54 thru ’79 New Beetle '98 thru '11 Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco & Pick-up gas models ’75 thru ’92 & Convertible ’80 thru ’92 Golf, GTI & Jetta 93 thru ’98, Cabrio ’95 thru 02 Golf, GTI, Jetta ’99 thru ’05 Jetta, Rabbit, GTI & Golf ‘05 thru ‘11 Rabbit, Jetta & Pick-up diesel ’77 thru 84 Passat 98 thru ’05, Audi A4 ’96 thru ’01 Transporter 1600 all models ’68 thru ’79 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 '72 thru ’79 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models ’63 thru ’73 Vanagon all air-cooled models ’80 thru ’83

VOLVO 97010 97015 97020 97040 97050

120, 140 240 740 850

130 Series & 1800 Sports ’61 thru ’73 Series all models ’66 thru 74 Series all models ’76 thru 93 & 760 Series all models ’82 thru 88 Series all models ’93 thru ’97

TECHBOOK 10205 10206 10210 10215 10220 10225 10230 10240 10305 10310 10320 10330 10333 10340 10341 10345 10355 10360 10405 10410 10411 10415 10420 10425 10430 10435 10440 10445 10450 10452

MANUALS

Automotive Computer Codes OBD-II & Electronic Engine Management Automotive Emissions Control Manual Fuel Injection Manual ’78 thru ’85 Fuel Injection Manual ’86 thru ’99 Holley Carburetor Manual Rochester Carburetor Manual Weber/Zenith/Stromberg/SU Carburetors Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual Chrysler Engine Overhaul Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Manual Engine Performance Manual Small Engine Repair Manual, 5 HP & Less Small Engine Repair Manual, 5.5 - 20 HP Suspension, Steering & Driveline Manual Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul Automotive Body Repair & Painting Automotive Brake Manual Automotive Anti-lock Brake (ABS) Systems Automotive Detaiing Manual Automotive Electrical Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Automotive Reference Manual & Dictionary Automotive Tools Manual Used Car Buying Guide Welding Manual ATV Basics Scooters 50cc to 250cc

SPANISH MANUALS 98903 98904 98905 98906 98910 98913 98915 99040

99041 99042

99043 99048 99055 99075 99076 99077 99088 99089 99091 99095 99100 99106 99110

Reparacién de Carroceria & Pintura Manual de Carburador Modelos Holley & Rochester Cédigos Automotrices de la Computadora OBD-Il & Sistemas de Control Electrénico del Motor Frenos Automotriz Electricidad Automotriz Inyeccién de Combustible ’86 al 99 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas ’67 al ’87 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas '88 al ’98 Chevrolet & GMC Camionetas Cerradas 68 al ’95 Chevrolet/GMC Camionetas ‘94 al ‘04 Chevrolet/GMC Camionetas ‘99 al ‘06 Dodge Caravan & Plymouth Voyager '84 al '95 Ford Camionetas y Bronco ’80 al ’94 Ford F-150 ‘97 al ‘09 Ford Camionetas Cerradas ’69 al ’91 Ford Modelos de Tamafio Mediano ’75 al ’86 Ford Camionetas Ranger ‘93 al ‘10 Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable ’86 al '95 GM Modelos de Tamajio Grande '70 al '90 GM Modelos de Tamafio Mediano '70 al '88 Jeep Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche "84 al ’00 Nissan Camioneta '80 al '96, Pathfinder '87 al '95

99118

Nissan Sentra ’82 al ’94

99125

Toyota Camionetas y 4Runner '79 al ’95

Over 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals.» also available

7-12

Haynes North America, Inc., 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, CA 91320-1514 © (805) 498-6703 e http://www.haynes.com

Common

spark plug conditions NORMAL Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

TOO HOT

WORN Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy. Recommendation: Plugs have been left in the engine too long. Replace with new plugs of the same heat range. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule.

CARBON

DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak igni-

tion. Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation. Recommendation: Make sure the plug has the correct heat range. Check for a clogged air filter or problem in the fuel system or engine management system. Also check for ignition system problems.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation

during acceleration. Recommendation: _ |f excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seep-

age of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

OIL DEPOSITS Symptoms:

Oily coating caused

by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber.

Causes hard starting, hesitation. Recommendation: mechanical condition sary repairs and install

misfiring and Correct the with necesnew plugs.

Symptoms; Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves and insufficient engine cooling.

PREIGNITION Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring orflying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage. Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, overadvanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds. Recommendation: _ \nstall new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

DETONATION Symptoms: Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE GAP BRIDGING Symptoms: Combustion deposits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases to fire, resulting in a dead cylinder. Recommendation: Locate the faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage. Recommendation: Repair the mechanical damage. Remove the foreign object from the engine and/ or install the correct reach plug.

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