Haynes Jeep Wrangler Automotive Repair Manual 1987 thru 2000 1563924021, 9781563924026

Citation preview

ir

ay

Navacs Repair TENET iW=F-Ty-1o Me)s Wr) complete teardown and rebuild

gaNTE UR,Wy

ae

Includes essential information for today’s more complex vehicles ae

APR VU © LUU4

Jeep Wrangler — Automotive Repair Manual

by Mike Stubblefield and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers Models covered: All Jeep Wrangler models 1987 through 2000.

(12E16 - 50030) (1777)

AES eee 2,

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

MEMBER

aBGpe

|

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual

;

The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section.

That is,

illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to

Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sittingin the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Acknowledgements We are grateful to the Chrysler Corporation for assistance with technical information, certain illustrations and vehicle photos. Technical writers who contributed to this project include Larry Warren, Robert Maddox and Doug Nelson.

©

Haynes North America, Inc. 1992, 1994, 1996, 1999, 2000 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 402 1 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 00-109631 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 99-352

0-3

Contents Introductory pages '

About this manual Introduction to the Jeep Wrangler Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Jacking and towing Booster battery (jump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

P2900

PPP2PPP a AD WOT Gia ee pe NOORO

Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2

1-1

PartA

Four-cylinder engines

Chapter 2

2A-1

PartB

La

4.2L and 4.0L six-cylinder engines

Chapter2

; 2B-1

PartC

General engine overhaul procedures

~

2C-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Chapter 7

TA-1

PartB

Automatic transmission

Chapter 7

—

PartA

Manual transmission

Chapter 7

6-1

7B-1

PartC

Transfer case

7C-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and drivetrain

8-1

*

Chapter 9 Brakes

9-1

z

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams Index

12-17 IND-1

IND

Introduction to the Jeep Wrangler Jeep Wrangler models are all equipped with a roll bar and a removable hard top or soft top. The body style varies slightly with the different models: “S” type, Sahara and Islander. The 2.5L four cylinder and the 4.0L and 4.2L six-cylinder engines used in these vehicles are equipped with a carburetor or fuel injection system, depending on the model.

either a four or five-speed manual or three or four-speed automatic transmission via a driveshaft and solid rear axle. A transfer case and driveshaft are used to drive the front axle when the vehicle is switched into 4WD. The suspension features solid axles at the front and rear. The front axle on models

The engine drives the rear wheels through

bilizer bar and a track bar. 1997 and later

through 1995 is suspended by leaf springs and shock absorbers and is located by a sta-

models have coil springs at all four corners. The rear axle is suspended by leaf springs — and shock absorbers. The steering box is mounted to the left of the engine and is connected to the steering arms through a series of rods which incorporates a damper. Power assist is” optional on most models. The-brakes are disc at the front and drums at the rear, with power assist standard.

‘Vehicle identification numbers Modifications

are

a continuing

and

unpublicized process in vehicle manufactur-

ing. Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the component required.

Vehicle Identification Number

(VIN) This very important identification number is stamped on a plate attached to the left (driver's) side of the dashboard just inside the windshield. The VIN also appears on the

Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style.

Vehicle Identification Plate This plate is located on the radiator support on the driver's side on 1987 through 1989 models and on the left (driver's) side of the engine compartment on the dash panel on 1990 and later models. It contains information on the vehicle model, emission certification, engine and transmission type as well as the paint code (see illustration).

3 1223 04918 3040

Four-cylinder engine ID number location

0-5

Vehicle identification numbers s

‘ aE

PRIMARY PAINT

SECONDARY PAINT

VINYL ROOF CODE

f 4

oo

VEHICLE

MODEL

ORDER

NUMBER

NUMBER XOX XXK —XXXXXX PROCEDURE

(2)} XXX

XXX

XXX

XXX

XXK

AK KKHAKXKXKAK

ENGINE CODE

INTERIOR TRIM CODE 8 DIGIT TRANSMISSION UILD DATE — SERIAL UMBER CODE

MARKET U-C-B-M CODE

The build date and serial number are

-’ Vehicle Identification plate

stamped on the bottom of the AX 4/5 manual transmission case TRANSMISSION

PART NUMBER

BA 10/5 manual transmission ID number location

BUILD DATE

SERIAL NUMBER

The three-speed automatic transmission numbers are stamped on the edge of the

The four-speed automatic transmission ID

left side of the case

plate is on the right side of the case

Location of the . front axle ID number for models equipped with the CommandTrac system

Typical transfer case ID tag

Safety Certification label ~The Safety Certification label is affixed to the left front door pillar. The plate contains the name of the manufacturer, the month and

Location of the front axle ID number for models equipped with the Selec-Trac system year of production, the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the certification statement.

Engine identification number The engine ID number on four-cylinder engines is located on a machined surface on the right side of the block between the number three and four cylinders (see illustration). On six-cylinder engines, the ID number is located on a machined surface on the right side of the block between the number two and three cylinders (see illustration).

Transmission identification

number — Rear axle number location

On AX 4/5 manual transmissions, there are two identification codes: a model/code

shipping date stamped on-the shift tower and

an eight digit code stamped on the bottom surface of the case (see illustration). On the BA 10/5 manual transmission, the ID plate is attached to the left side of the front case (see illustration). On three-speed automatic transmissions the ID numbers are stamped on the left edge of the case (see illustration). The ID plate on four-speed automatic transmissions is located on the right rear of the case (see illustration).

Transfer case identification number On most models the transfer case identification plate is located on the left rear side of the case (see illustration).

Axle identification numbers On most front axles the identification number is located either on the right side (see illustration) or on a plate on the front differential housing cover (see illustration). On rear axles, the identification numbers are

stamped on the differential cover (see illustration).

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as-oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts,

transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty!

To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners

Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when

removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

|

Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undam-

Grade 1 or 2

Grade 5

Grade 8

aged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated

with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it.can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose.

yee

: ésoe

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

__ Identification

Grade

Hex Nut

Hex Nut

Grade 5

Property

Hex Nut

Hex Nut Property Class 10

Identification

Class 9

Grade'e

6 Dots Standard hex nut strength markings

\9

Class

10.9

Class

9.8 —

Class

8.85.)

Arabic 10

Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

5

— — —

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25

Metric thread sizes

Ft-Ibs 6to9 14 to 21 28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

Nm 9 to 12 19 to 28 38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

AUASIS

sR Sees go een Sie ee Suaeuese

5to8 12 to 18

7 to 10 17 to 24

Seen atest

22 to 33 25 to 35

Sees

6to9

9to 12

unite

12 to 18

17 to 24

metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by

examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from _ the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of

:

30 to 44 34 to 47

Si ance

14 to 20

19 to 27

oe

22 to 32

30 to 43

eae

27 to 38

37 to 51

sarees

40 to 55

55 to 74

Save

40 to 60

55 to 81

Deavennes

55 to 80

75 to 108

9

the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly used on automo-

biles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strencth. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger. the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the

greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade. It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is

standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G

Grade marks (bolt strength)

L__

Length (in inches)

T

Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) ‘ Nominal diameter (in inches)

D__

strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

P __ Property class (bolt strength) L Length (in millimeters) T Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) D Diameter

made

of and their thread diameters,

have

specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tight-

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

SS

Dial indicator set

Micrometer set

ened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the following procedures can be.used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, ina criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the same pattern. Finally,

tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to

identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if.a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be nec-

essary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old

gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can_be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is

recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a. non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. , Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose,

first loosen

the

hose

clamps

that

secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must bé done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance. and repair, it is a wise one. To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. ; The newcomer to practical mechanics

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities LS

SSS

SSS

SSS

SSS

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Ridge reamer

0-9

SS

General purpose puller

:

Valve spring compressor

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removai/installation tool

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

-Brake cylinder hone

should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period » of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openend combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 7 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch)

Cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool |

Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch - Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool-kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive,

Tap and die set it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

|

Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Steel rule/straightedge - 12 inch - Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files

Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

1

Maintenance

The toois in this list include those which

are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless q these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost:

:

ae a 63.0 Sme

0-11

i

' _ Note: Another too/ which is often useful is an __ electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch 1 and a set of good quality drill bits.

;

techniques, tools and working facilities

and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can _ be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem-

porary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the _ public, and not those special tools produced _by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge

Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter

Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices,. and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are

needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the | mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job,. always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung ona panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they’ll still work.

Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three

choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded

plug into the hole with a bolt and jam

nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt.

3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straightthrough holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits which can handle a vatiety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during nor‘mal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them

with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-12

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands _under the frame. Warning: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the hazard flashers on, the wheels blocked, the parking brake applied and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If a tire is being changed, loosen the lug nuts one-half turn and leave'them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Place the jack under the vehicle suspension in the indicated position (see illustration). Operate the jack with a slow, smooth motion until the wheel is raised off the ground. Remove the lug nuts, pull off the

wheel, install the spare and thread the lug nuts back on with the beveled sides facing in. Tighten them snugly, but wait until the vehicle is lowered to tighten them completely. Note that some spare tires are designed for temporary use only - don't exceed the recommended speed, mileage or other restrictions

accompanying Lower the tighten the lug in a criss-cross

the spare. vehicle, remove the jack and nuts (if loosened or removed) pattern.

Towing As a general rule, vehicles can be towed with all four wheels on the ground, provided that the driveshaft(s) are removed (see Chapter 8). Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used and should be

attached to the main structural members of the vehicle, not the bumper or brackets. Tow hooks are attached to the frame at both ends of the vehicle. However, they are for emergency use only and should not be used for highway towing. Stand clear of vehicles when using the tow hooks - tow straps and chains may break, causing serious injury. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain must be used for all towing (in addition to the tow bar). While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transmission and (if equipped) transfer case must be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off.

Jacking points and procedure

|

Place the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual) Turn on the hazard flashers Apply the parking brake Block the wheel diagonally opposite the one being changed Use the jack to raise the vehicle Rear jacking point QAR NQ WH Front jacking point

Jacking points and procedure 1 2 3

Place the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual) Turnon the hazard flashers Apply the parking brake

4 5 6 7

Block the wheel diagonally opposite the one being changed Use the jack to raise the vehicle Front jacking point Rear jacking point

0-13

Booster baitery (jump) starting Observe these precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: -

Dead battery

a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other! f) Make sure the transaxle is in Neutral (manual) or Park (automatic). g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes. “Connect the red jumper cable to the positive (+) terminals of each battery (see illustration). Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or ; bracket on the body.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Booster battery.

OO000O0

;

4

TaErerasq nme =

‘Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-14

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on.electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used

to

remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants.

Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired.

Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alter' nators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and non-flammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the ' demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot clirnates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings

in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone fubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch.’ Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing. Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Sealants RTV sealant is one of the most widely used

gasket compounds.

Made

from

sili-

cone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink,is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium . temperature gaskets.

Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the cur_ ing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for

sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corresion in

fasteners. High-temperature anti-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. Highstrength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a

regular basis. — Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim

to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the com-

bustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-. deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxi-

dized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-15

= Conversion factors Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft)

25.4 0.305

= Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m)

Miles

1.609

= Kilometres (km)

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

16.387 = Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’)

Imperial pints (Imp pt)

. 0.568 1.137

Imperial quarts (Imp qt) - Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) er es ee eA Ne PT

0.0394 3.281 0.621

1.201 0.946

= Litres (I) =Litres (I)

=US quarts (US qt) = Litres (I)

imperial gallons (imp gal)

4.546

= Litres (I)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

1.201

=US gallons (US gal)

xxX xxx KX x

eee 3

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in) Pounds-force inches

0.868

8.85

(Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force

0.083

inches

(Ibf in; ib in) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

0.138

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Néwton metres (Nm)

Sk" Sees SE SC Sey Se Sea Se xxx a 0.102

12

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

3.377

Inches mercury (in. Hg)

X< x 25.4

= Kilopascals (kPa) =Millimeters mercury (mm Hg)

Power

= Pounds-force

inches

(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force

inches

(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force

inches

Tee Pode NO Da Re Po a2

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) = Newton metres (Nm)

0.2961 0.0394

Inches mercury

X< x

Vacuum Inches mercury (in. Hg)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

7.233

= Kilograms-force metres =Newton metres (Nm) = Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

~

(Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force feet (ibf ft; Ib ft)

(kgf m; kg m) 1.356

98.1

Inches mercury

745.7

=Watts (W)

0.0013

= Horsepower (hp)

1.609

-= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph)

0.621

= Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

0.354

= Kilometres per litre (km/I)

0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I)

2.825 2.352

= Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg)

Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Horsepower (hp) Ne ee OE ee a LN ae re te Ree ee Pog See INET Se Se

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption*

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

= Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (//100km),

where mpg (Imperial) x i/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x i/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

0-16

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions.

The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out

on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a _ Cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attemptto drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow

them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the’floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power _ tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder,

etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts. DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and

make sure that everything is correctly assembled an s and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to . health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive: Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or. electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit

with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare

light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which

is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps-or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst.

Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the ~ tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.

Fumes

Secondary ignition system voltage

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death‘ifinhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents.. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and sol-

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

vents, read the instructions on the container

0-17

~ Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom ett PRE

Iea Ay ae Pe

amIeal seeds) ia eal Sta NS ea Sa tl i OR nN a

‘Section

Symptom

Engine and performance

Section

Automatic transmission

Alternator light fails to come on when key is turned ON...........:006 AUER ALOla Gt StAWS: OF rss svacadserenivaesassaesutikasce accucresnsutaudsusbeoenee es

13 12

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral............:..:205 Fliidileakage ss esis oi8 aS ict ate caatess atone veabeaunenedtonvecsanennaearaag

50 47

Betremyaviils mot Mold a CHANG @ia: ccciisccassetisecsdsncgosccnaschuodinantiacterss teas EEOC HACKS pic asec san Eo ee auue shyt ty dalakeessoacacsudieacasdens Ey ah hcwdes Engine diesels (continues to run) after being turned off................. EMomentarc: tO Start WHEN COM: ac. s.ccccdoncneadausecessncdevabeeceeincbacsseses Slies Lage PONSA WINE HOt sshek «ede evssaraxtasas covesssenisers ieee cave eanitik

qq 18 21 4 5

General shift MechanisM ProblOMS .........ccccesccssssseceeeeseeenseseseees

48

Transmission slips, shifts rough, is noisy or has no drive in forward Of reVerS€ GearS .........ceccceseseseeseessseseesenseres Transmission will not downshift with the accelerator pedal pressed to the floor....,....:....... ita sib hea geen

INOUITG HACKS MOO WEI sackcc cs taevecausvass

51

49

Knock or clunk when transmission is under initial

load (just after transmission is PUt INtO GOAL) ......-sscrsereeserneenes

att s:22 5 sie ices Leaks at frontiof:drivesh

bape csptenaneds ot vate aeoranapeentain

Metallic grating sound consistent with vehicle speed .............. sees

SCraping MOISC 223. seccc 5.10 sees tbsceee des sar Weteens eters es eter enecenness

(53 52

54

56

MID At OND Si csi tei cachicnssvacue teatancae iecua ue aaa yuuana tesesleve vomanagneatmee sin carue mbaaee

55

Whining or whistling noise ........ sesusesveensenssenssenssannneeneceuncanactsseennectes

57

24

Rear axle and differential

Ms

=

Knocking sound when starting or Shifting Qears........csesesseseeeenes Noise - same when in drive as when vehicle is Coasting .....e..e- .

59 58

feat Gre, Pr ISEG ACES T= Bat UGRaA MRR ECReese NUT AO aE ec cantik RI Hesitation or stumble during acceleration ..........::cceeseesseeeseneseeees

15

caatawnaay maasanse“igcbeae ata NOISE: WHEN CUMING cick sa asutestasvatgobeesauntseate Oil leaks

60 62

BOWIEO UES SUNS cota oos 8 css eas rae cducs eacracsoe lacs teh «a ocyantins teraz abesbunects : : : Miscellaneous Engine NOISES ...........-:sccccsescsssesseecneeeessaeeseseesensees

22 26

ee eee eg KABA a cra engON eee es veg team en tran ee TOPRIM eee

61

ocacic SUES NNT i rr

Se

eI

ty Gene ae

Pinging or knocking engine sounds when the engine is UNEr OA .........seeeneeeceseseseeeresesesesssesenedeeenens

Transfer case 20

DYUadtoxOl eas olLadintsRepseerepeee nearer

eee ree res one

Neer ate

8p

een

64

63 65

6 3

eens se ee Gear jUMpiNg Olt Of MOSM ...2--:acseaincnivcese@bcsoabencenie ara ie ccs et IVGIS Gea

Cooling system Abnormal COOlAMENOSS urtrercaiec ares svate a aesiipes sce cakuedseussssnertneevaney

31

Brake pedal feels spongy when Gepressed ..........c:cececeseeesseeseereees Brake pedal pulsates during brake application.......:c::scsssseessee

IOM aye ct use eases scence ativan h da aekvins np nnikgua Wasa sestacwithnanpn tneceenaxahedaa BROS

33

Brakes drag (indicated by sluggish engine performance

External Coolant ICAKAGE .......scieccccssevsencnsesensgerscsccneesssessedsenstarereasss Internals GOOlaMt lCAK AGS icv ne, cctpeenictasiccds sansnsenssseseacearavevetapeaetannsss

29 30

or wheels being very hot after driving) ....c.sssssssecssecssseesseecsneeene Excessive brake pedal travel..c..scsssssscsssecssesssseessesssessssesssesessseensees

73 68

Starter motor noisy Or ENngageS FOUGNIY........ esses Starter motor operates without turning ENGiNe ........cceeseeeeresens i

Brakes 69 72

70

Overcooling iuearanersssssaderssocronese afasddeasugaeaswoved nubaouustsrssensesssuaenteaaaskeuss

28

OVEMNCATING «2... ccccseeesneeecesecceescesececeecesteteesedesenennesesaraanarseseccesenceeens

27

ace eee ee ae Excessive effort required to stop WahiGlewtinnec aaedand tater ee ater BM Ad Raat gh ea Noise (high-pitched squeal) Pe

67

POGLICODIAIT CIRCULATION aiuiweviorasuivvae cesdsebsacnoveeeecsecsstdaracy soaeunnnssdscss

32

Pedal travels to the floor with little [email protected]

74

Rear brakes lock up under heavy brake application............::c000

75

39

Rear brakes lock up under light brake application .........:ssscee venice Pols to one side during braking ....:....c.eeceeseeeneenenetereenes

s

Clutch Clutch pedal stays on floor when disengaged............ssssssssesereeees

Suspension and steering

Clutch slips (engine speed increases

with no increase in vehicle SPeCd).....---rvsrssressseeeeensnnnnttrseee

a0

does not move freely in and out of REVErSe) «....-ssss-ssssesrereeseeen Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is CNGAged «sss sssseeeeseeeereen Squeal or rumble with clutch disengaged (pedal depressed)........_ Squeal or rumble with clutch engaged (pedal released)..............

= oe 38 37

Fails to release (pedal pressed to the floor - shift lever

Manual transmission Difficulty ENGAGING GCAMS.......eeccseeceeterteeseereeeeseeeeeeeeetetetteretaeenens Noise occurs while Shifting Gear .........cceeeeeeeeeeeeeeteeneeeeenenetteeeetens

Noisy in all G@Ars .......cscececsssesceneseseseeteenectenensesseeneneasenenenseseasecsnensnss Noisy in Neutral with engine rUnning....cessesererssesessseseseenneensass Noisy in one particular Gear ......ccseeeeeseeesenetereeserteeseneneteteeeerseeeens

OT Sea

ey

oe

atlee CNL ECR Use cperkeg Secasusantersi anaes Aenea

Slips OUt Of GOAL... sesecsesessecsensesesecseesesneseneesseseesesueerseeneeeeeneenens

74 66

45 46

41 40 42

44

43

aviv euamneteserartnes ExCessivGly-stlff StOOrinG iccsissssacssiciisesccsicciets :

80

eeoucets GONNETS -OK-GUFNG. DYAMIAG assis secssc catsecsrarsosarnsvsaracccuneas cscs tescscunceilny aig uciean Wa aaeees Excessive play if Steering!:...s Excessive tire wear (not specific to one area) = ieee BS ces ee Excessive tire wear On inside CUge ......essssssssssssessseesssssseeeseceenesseees

78 81 87 89

Excessive tire wear on outside Cdgé.............06 peak

88

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around

yhin sara gemaeneeee

Lack of Power aSSiStanice:

General engine overhaul procedures Contents Section

Section

pe GrankShatt = INSPEOCHON t.4...cis2Sisescceancesesscdeceevascessss ERE pore ee Crankshaft - installation and main bearing oil

18

Engine overhaul - reassembly SCQUENCE ..........:2cccesseceeececteeneeeeesee Engine rebuilding alternatives ......... S P TAT rer one E ao

NANG Cie ccd us cate sso se pese yas caav Seto iauuacearatevatdentcanesviasvdiuanna Reettchicaites KOMIO VA er cae. hetocac iss: cee evecsvanscsasdaccesescuccgeesiocieincess VOR COMM ESSION: CHECKS: tsa.

screwdriver to rotate the oil

pump gear so the slot is at the ten o’clock position...

10 O’CLOCK POSITION OIL PUMP SLOT

PULSE RING

4.0L 6-CYLINDER ENGINE ALIGN. HOLE

DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING (TOP VIEW)

DISTRIBUTOR BASE s

12.11¢ Visually line up the distributor with the centerline of the base slot in the one o’clock position. .

12.11b ... then rotate the distributor shaft and install a 3/16inch drift pin punch tool through the correct alignment hole in the plastic ring and into the mating hole in the distributor housing

DISTRIBUTOR BASE SLOT

MATING ACCESS HOLE IN DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING

2.5L 4-CYLINDER ENGI ee ALIGN. H :

—

b) Look into the hole in the engine block

where

the distributor

mounts.

You-

should see the oil pump gear slot (see illustration). Put a screwdriver into the hole and rotate the oil pump gear so the gear slot is slightly before the ten o'clock position. c). The pulse ring must be locked in place to hold the rotor in the number one cylinder firing position during installation. Lift the camshaft position sensor straight up and out of the distributor.

Rotate the distributor shaft and install a 3/16 inch drift pin punch tool through the correct alignment hole in the plastic ring and into the mating hole in the distributor housing (see illustration). This will prevent the distributor shaft and rotor from rotating during installation. d) Install the rotor onto the shaft.

e) Visually line up the distributor with the centerline of the base slot in the one o'clock position (see illustration). Install the distributor. It will rotate clockwise during installation and when the distributor is fully installed the centerline of the base slot will be aligned with the

9) 12

clamp bolt hole on the engine (see illustration). The rotor should also be pointing to slightly past (clockwise of) the three o'clock position. If the distributor is still not installed correctly, repeat this procedure. lf you have difficulty getting the distribu-

tor to seat properly on a carbureted six-cylin-

der engine, use the following procedure:

a)

Make sure the number one piston is at TDC (see Chapter 2).

DISTRIBUTOR BASE

Teak Ne SE cect A 11 O'CLOCK

‘CLAMP BOLT

MOUNTING HOLE

(ON ENGINE)

12.11d When the distributor is installed correctly, the centerline of the base slot

will be aligned with the clamp bolt hole on the engine

b) Look into the hole in the engine block . where the distributor mounts. You should see the oil pump gear slot. Put a screwdriver into the slot and rotate the oil pump gear so the rotor will be lined up with the number 71 terminal when the distributor is inserted. C) If the distributor is still not installed correctly, repeat this procedure.

13 If you have difficulty getting the distributor to seat properly on a fuel-injected sixcylinder engine, use the following procedure:

a) FRONT OF ENGINE

|

Look into the hole in the engine block where the distributor mounts. You should see the oil pump gear shaft (see | illustration). Put a screwdriver into the slot in the oil pump gear shaft and rotate

|

the shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. If you removed it, Install the rotor.

\\)

b) c) Without engaging the distributor gear with the camshaft gear in the engine, position the distributor in the hole in the engine block. Be sure the distributor

Oll PUMP GEAR SHAFT FRONT

12.13a To seal the distributor on.a 1987 through 1994 six-cylinder engine, use a screwdriver to turn the oil pump gear shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o’clock position .. .

HOLD-DOWN CLAMP BOLT HOLE

gasket is installed.

d)

12.13b ... ViSually line up the hold-down ear of the distributor housing with the hold-down clamp bolt hole... \

.

Visually line up the hold-down ear of the distributor housing with the hold-down clamp bolt hole (see illustration).

é) Turn the rotor to the four o'clock position (see illustration).

5-9

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems 12 O'CLOCK

DISTRIBUTOR BASE SLOT FRONT FRONT

11 O'CLOCK POSITION

OlL PUMP SLOT

12.13c

... turn the rotor to the four

o’clock position, then slide the distributor down into the block until it seats

f) Slide the distributor down into the engine block until it seats. Keep the hold-down ear aligned to the hole in the block. g) The rotor should be in the five o'clock position with the trailing edge of the rotor blade lined up with the mark you scribed on the distributor housing prior to removal (the number one spark plug wire post location). h) If the distributor still won't seat properly, repeat this procedure. 14 If you are having difficulty getting the distributor to seat properly on a fuel-injected

1995 inline six-cylinder engine, use the following procedure:

a) Make sure the number one cylinder is at TDC (see Chapter 2). b) Look into the hole in the engine block where the distributor mounts. You should see the oil pump gear slot (see illustration). Put a screwdriver into the hole and rotate the oil pump gear so the gear slot is slightly before the eleven o'clock position. : c) The pulse ring must be locked in place to hold the rotor in the number one cylinder firing position during installation. Lift the

camshaft position sensor straight up and out of the distributor. Rotate the distributor shaft and install a 3/16 inch drift pin punch tool through the correct alignment hole in the plastic ring and into the mating hole in the distributor housing (see illus-

tration 12.11b). This will prevent the distributor shaft and rotor from rotating during installation. d) Install the rotor onto the shaft. e) Visually line up the distributor with the centerline of the base slot in the one o'clock position (see illustration 12.11c). f) Install the distributor. It will rotate clockwise during installation and when the distributor is fully installed the centerline of the base slot will be aligned with the

clamp bolt hole on the engine (see illustration). The rotor should also be pointing to slightly past (clockwise of) the five o'clock position.

>

12.14a To seat the distributor on a 1995 inline six-cylinder engine, use a screwdriver to rotate the oil pump gear so the slot is at the eleven o’clock position

DISTRIBUTOR BASE

|

CLAMP BOLT MOUNTING HOLE (ON ENGINE}

12.14b When the distributor is installed correctly, the centerline of the base slot

will be aligned with the clamp bolt hole on the engine

g) If the distributor is still not installed correctly, repeat this procedure.

145 Place the hold-down clamp in position and loosely install the bolt. 16 On 1995 four-cylinder and inline 6-cylinder models, remove the pin punch tool from the distributor. Install the camshaft position sensor onto the distributor and align the wiring harness grommet with the notch in the distributor. Install the rotor. ° 17 Attach the electrical wires to the distrib-

nae Be

a-

utor.

18 Reattach the spark plug wires to the plugs (if removed). 19 Connect the cable to the negative termi-

"nal of the battery. 20 Check the ignition timing (see Chapter 1) and tighten the distributor hold-down bolt securely. ¢

13.4 Use a small punch and hammer to drive out the retaining pin, then remove the distributor gear from the shaft

STATOR-HARNESS

GROMMET

13 Stator - replacement (1991 and later, except 2000 six-cylinder models) Refer to illustrations 13.4, 13.6 and 13.7 Note: The stator is also referred to as the camshaft position sensor on early models. Refer to Chapter 6 for camshaft position sensor information relating to 2000 six-cylinder models. 1 Remove the distributor from the engine (see Section 12). ; 2 Remove the distributor cap and rotor (see Chapter 1). 3 Secure the distributor shaft gear in a bench vise. Wrap a rag around the shaft to prevent damage from the vise jaws. _ 4 Use asmall punch and hammer to drive out the retaining pin, then remove the distributor gear from the shaft (see illustration). 5 Remove the distributor shaft from the

distributor housing.

me

6 On 1991 through 1994 models, perform the following: a) Mark the location of the stator (see illustration) so you can return it to the same location during reassembly.

STATOR RETAINING SCREW

13.6 After marking the position of the stator assembly, remove the retaining screw, push the grommet through the distributor housing and remove the stator (1991 through 1994)

b) Remove the stator retaining screw (see illustration 13.6). c) Remove the stator harness (see illustration 13.6) by pushing the grommet through the distributor housing. Remove the stator assembly. 7 On 1995 and later models, except 2000 six-cylinder models, lift the stator (camshaft

%

: Bae

nf ii

5-10

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems d) Always disconnect both battery leads before using a battery charger. e) The alternator is turned by an engine drivebelt which could cause serious injury if your hands,

hair or clothes

become entangled in it with the engine running. f) Because the alternator is connected directly to the battery, it could arc or causé a fire if overloaded’or shorted out.

g) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator and secure it with rubberbands before steam cleaning the engine.

DISTRIBUTOR ASSEMBLY

13.7 Lift the stator (camshaft position sensor) assembly from the distributor housing

position sensor) from the distributor housing (see illustration). 8

Installation is the reverse of removal.

14

Charging system - general information and precautions

The charging system includes the alter_ nator, an internal voltage regulator, a charge indicator, the battery, a fusible link and the

wiring between all the components. The charging system supplies electrical power for the ignition system, the lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven by a drivebelt at the front of the engine. The purpose of the voltage regulator is to limit the alternator's voltage to a preset value. This prevents power surges, circuit overloads, etc., during peak voltage output. The fusible link is a short Jength of insulated wire integral with the engine compartment wiring harness. Production fusible links are identified by the flag color. See Chapter 12 for additional information regarding fusible links. The charging system doesn't ordinarily require periodic maintenance. However, the drivebelt, battery, battery cables and connections should be inspected at the intervals outlined in Chapter 1. The dashboard warning light should come on when the ignition key is turned to Start, then go off immediately.

If it remains

on, there is a malfunction in the charging system (see Section 15). Some vehicles are also equipped with a voltmeter. If the voltmeter indicates abnormally high or low voltage, check the charging system (See Section 15). Be very careful when making electrical circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with an alternator and note the following: a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator from the battery, be sure to note the polarity. b) Before using arc welding equipment to repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect the wires from the alternator and the battery terminals. c) Never start the engine with a battery charger connected.

15

Charging system - check 15.5 To seat the Delco alternator, locate

Refer to illustration 15.5 1 lf a malfunction occurs in the charging circuit, don't automatically assume that the alternator is causing the problem. First check the following items:

the test hole in the back, ground that tab that’s located inside the hole by inserting ’ a screwdriver blade into the hole and touching the tab and the case at the same time

a) Check the drivebelt tension and condi-

tion (Chapter 1). Replace it if it's worn or deteriorated. b) Make sure the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts are tight. c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the connectors at the alternator and voltage regulator. They must be in good condition and tight. d) Check the fusible link (if equipped) located between the starter solenoid arid the alternator. If it's burned, determine the cause, repair the circuit and replace the link (the vehicle won't start and/or the accessories won't work if the

fusible link blows). Sometimes a fusible link may look good, but still be bad. If in doubt, remove it and check for continu-

ity with an ohmmeter or test light. e) Start the engine and check the alternator for abnormal noises (a shrieking or

squealing sound indicates a bad bearing). f) Check the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte. If it's low, charge the battery (doesn't apply to maintenance free batteries). g) Make sure the battery is fully charged (one bad cell in a battery can cause overcharging by the alternator). h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see Chapter 1). Reconnect the cable to ‘the negative terminal. i) With the key off, connect a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp. 1) If the test light does not come on, - reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.

2)

If the test light comes on, there is a short (drain) in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging sys-

tem can be checked. \

3)

Disconnect

the alternator wiring

harness. (a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad. , (b) If the light stays on, pull each

fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted). 2 Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. If should be approximately 12-volts.

3. Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. It should now be approximately 14-to-15 volts. 4 On Delco alternators, locate the test hole in the back of the alternator. Note: /f there is no test hole, the vehicle is equipped with a newer CS type alternator. Further testing of this type of alternator must be done by a dealer service department or automotive electrical shop. Nippondenso alternators

(used on later models) have no test hole. © 5 Ground the tab that is located inside the hole by inserting a screwdriver blade into the hole and touching the tab and the case at the same time (see illustration). Caution: Do not run the engine with the tab grounded any longer than necessary to obtain a voltmeter reading. If the alternator is charging, it is running unregulated during the test. This condition may overload the electrical system and cause damage to the components. 6 The reading on the voltmeter should be 15-volts or higher with the tab in the test hole grounded. 7. If the voltmeter indicates low battery voltage, the alternator is faulty and should be replaced with a new one (See Section 16). 8 If the voltage reading is 15-volts or higher and ano charge condition is present, the regulator or field circuit is the problem. Remove the alternator (see Section 16) and have it checked further by an auto electric shop.

16.2 To remove the alternator, detach

16.3a

the electrical connectors (arrows)

... loosen the alternator adjustment bolt...

16.3b

from below. ..

16

...and remove the alternator pivot bolt from below

oa

Alternator - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 16.2, 16.3a and 16.3b 1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Detach the electrical connectors from the alternator (see illustration). 3 Loosen the alternator adjustment and pivot bolts and detach the drivebelt (see illustrations). 4. Remove the adjustment and pivot bolts and separate the alternator from the engine. 5 If you are replacing the alternator, take the old one with you when purchasing a replacement unit. Make sure the new/rebuilt unit looks identical to the old alternator. Look at the terminals - they should be the same in number, size and location as the terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at the identifi‘cation numbers - they will be stamped into the housing or printed on a tag attached to the housing. Make sure the numbers are the same on both alternators. 6 Many new/rebuilt alternators DO NOT have a pulley installed, so you may have to switch the pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt one. When buying an alternator, find out the shop's policy regarding pulleys some shops will perform this service free of charge.

17.4b

17.2 Mark the front and rear end frame housings with a scribe or paint mark before separating them

7

Installation is the reverse of removal.

8

After the alternator is installed, adjust

the’ drivebelt tension (see Chapter 1). 9 Check the charging voltage to verify proper operation of the alternator (see Section 15).

17

Alternator brushes - replacement

17.4a

Delco alternator Note: The following procedure applies only to — Si type alternators. CS types have riveted housings and cannot be disassembled. 2 _ Scribe or paint marks on the front and rear end frame housings of the alternator to facilitate reassembly (see illustration). 3 Remove the four through-bolts holding the front and rear end frames together.

4 Refer to illustrations 17.2 17.4a, 17.4b, 17.5,

VIO AT, 17-8: AnOALAT 1 Remove the alternator from the vehicle

(see Section 16).

Carefully separate the drive end

frame and the rectifier end frame

Separate the drive end frame from the

rectifier end frame (see illustrations). 5 Remove the bolts holding the stator to the rear end frame and separate the stator from the end frame (see illustration).

Inside a typical

Delco alternator

Brush holder Paper clip (holding the brushes in place) Regulator Resistor (not all models) Diode trio Rectifier bridge DAR hm—

17.5 After removing the bolts holding the stator assembly to the end frame, remove the stator

5-12

17.6 Remove the nuts attaching the diode trio to the rectifier bridge and remove the trio

‘Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

17.7 After removing the screws that attach the regulator, brush holder and the resistor (if equipped) to the end frame,

17.8 Slip the brush retainer off the brush holder and remove the brushes (arrow)

remove the regulator

17.11 To hold the brushes in place during reassembly, insert a paper clip through the hole in the rear end frame nearest rotor shaft 6 Remove the nuts attaching the diode trio to the rectifier bridge and remove the trio (see illustration). 7 Remove the screws attaching the resistor (not used on all models) and regulator and brush holder to the end frame and remove

17.13 Remove the Nippondenso alternator rear cover attaching nuts (arrows) and remove the cover

17.12 To replace the brushes on Nippondenso alternators, remove the B+ terminal nut, washer and insulator (arrow)

the regulator (see illustration).

8 Remove the brushes from the brush holder by slipping the brush retainer off the holder (see illustration). 9 Remove the springs from the brush holder.

10 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, but be sure to note the following: 11. When installing the brushes in the brush holder, install the brush closest to the end frame first. Slip a paper clip through the rear

of the end frame to hold the brush, then insert the second brush and push the paper clip in to hold both brushes while reassembly is completed (see illustration). The paper clip should not be removed until the front and rear end frames have been bolted together.

Nippondenso alternator Refer to illustrations 17.12, 17.13, 17.14a,

17.14b, 17.15 and 17.16 12

With the alternator removed

from the

vehicle (see Section 16), remove the B+ insulator nut and insulator (see illustration). 13 Remove the rear cover attaching nuts and remove the rear cover (see illustration).

17.14a Remove the brush holder attaching nuts (arrows) ...

17.14b ... and remove the brush holder assembly (Nippondenso alternator) _

ri

14 Remove the brush holder attaching screws and lift the brush holder from: the alternator (see illustrations). 15 (Before installing the new brush holder assembly, check for continuity between each

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

17.15 Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between each brush and appropriate field terminal ( if there’s no ‘ continuity, switch one of the leads to the other field terminal or brush)

brush and the appropriate field terminal (see illustration). 16 To install the brush Réider assembly, use your finger to depress the brushes (see. illustration), then slide the holder over the commutator slip rings and screw it into place. 17 Installation is otherwise the reverse of removal. When installing the B+ insulator, be

sure to align the guide tang with the hole in the rear cover.

18

Starting system - general information and precautions

The sole function of the starting system is to turn over the engine quickly enough to allow it to start. The starting system consists of the battery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid, a

remote starter relay (on some models) and the wires connecting them. A number of different starter motors - including Bosch, Mit-

subishi and Motorcraft - are used on the vehicles covered by this manual. If you replace the starter motor, be sure to take the old starter with you to the parts department to make sure you get the right replacement. The solenoid is mounted directly on the starter motor or, on Motorcraft units, is a separate component located in the engine compartment. The solenoid/starter motor assembly is

installed on the lower part of the engine, next to the transmission bellhousing. When the ignition key is turned to the Start position, the starter solenoid is actuated through the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid then connects the battery to the starter. The battery supplies the electrical energy to the starter motor, which does the actual work of cranking the engine. The starter on a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission can only be operated when the transmission selector lever is in Park or Neutral.

17.16 Depress the brushes with your index finger as you slide the brush holder into place

5-13

20.3 Before unbolting the starter motor assembly, detach the wires (arrows) from the solenoid (or from the starter motor

itself, or, some models) - be sure the Always observe the following precautions when working on the starting system: a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor can overheat it and cause serious damage. Never operate the starter motor for more than 15 seconds at a time without pausing to allow it-to cool for at least two minutes.

b) The starter is connected directly to the battery and could arc or cause a fire if mishandled, overloaded or shorted out. c) Always detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before work_ ing on the starting system. —

battery is disconnected

ate, remove the starter/solenoid asaney, for disassembly, testing and repair. 8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at — an abnormally slow speed, first make sure that the battery is charged and that all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it'will crank slowly. 9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached, then disconnect the © coil wire from the distributor cap and ground it. 10 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the positive battery post and connect the nega-

tive lead to the negative post. 19

Starter motor - testing in vehicle

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, make sure the battery is fully charged. 1 lf the starter motor does not operate at all when the switch is turned to Start, make sure the shift lever is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission). 2 Make sure that the battery is charged and that all cables, both at the battery and starter « solenoid terminals, are clean and secure. 3 _ If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. . 4 If, when the switch

is actuated, the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, then the problem lies with either the battery, the starter relay (if equipped), the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself (or the engine is seized). 5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard

when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (the circuit is open) or the solenoid itself is defective. 6 To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the battery (+) and the ignition switch wire terminal (the small terminal) on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is OK and the problenr is in the ignition switch, neutral start switch or the wiring. 7 lf the starter motor still does not oper-

.

11. Crank the engine and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading of | 9-volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9-volts or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9- volts and the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid ‘contacts are probably burned, the starter motor is bad, the battery is discharged or there is a bad connection.

20

Starter motor - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 20.3, 20.4a, 20.4b and 20.4c Note: On some vehicles, it may be necessary to remove the exhaust pipe(s) or frame crossmember to gain access to the starter motor. In extreme cases it may even be necessary to _ unbolt the mounts and raise the engine slightly to get the starter out. 1 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 _ Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3. Clearly label, then disconnect the wires from the terminals on the starter motor and solenoid (if mounted on the starter) (see illustration).

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

la

20.4a The starter lower mounting bolt (six-cylinder model shown)

21.3 Before removing the solenoid from the starter motor, detach the starter motor terminal strap (arrow) Mitsubishi starter shown

4 Remove the mounting bolts (see illustrations) and detach the starter. 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21

Starter solenoid - removal and installation

1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

All solenoids except Motorcraft Refer to illustrations 21.3 and 21.4

2 Remove the starter motor (see Section 20). 3 Disconnect the strap from the solenoid

20.4b The starter upper mounting bolt (six-cylinder engine) - view is from the front, looking toward the rear

.

.

:

4

20.4c On some four-cylinder engines, the starter is held in place by E-12 Torx-head bolts (arrows) which will require a special socket

ee a

21.4 To detach the solenoid from the starter motor, remove the solenoid attaching screws (arrows) from the front of the starter solenoid mount

(Mitsubishi starter shown) - Bosch starters only have one screw

to the starter motor terminal (see illustration). 4 Remove the screws which secure the solenoid to the starter motor (see illustration). 5 Onsome models it may be necessary to twist the solenoid in a clockwise direction to

disengage the flange from the starter body. 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

21.7 If you have a Motorcraft starter solenoid, it’s located near the battery - to remove it, detach the wires and remove

the mounting bracket bolts - be sure the battery is disconnected!

Motorcraft solenoid

:

Refer to illustration 21.7 7 Locate the solenoid - it's mounted in the engine compartment near the battery (see

illustration). Detach the electrical wires from the starter solenoid terminals. Label them to assure proper reassembly. 8 Remove the solenoid mounting bracket bolts and detach the solenoid. 9 Installation is the reverse of removal.

ee ae

Chapter 6 “Emissions control systems Contents Section

Catalytic CONVENte Kast ciecctees ago tuartuvaacscstessecancsvaneecs aaavudaiescageeaeaeseeeecs Computerized Emission Control (CEC) systems CER EPA a Na A Vera

Crankcase ventilation SySteMS..........cccceceeeene ERS

ROR Re Evaporative emissions control system.............. Baha i Neen

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (1987 through 1990 models)............0:cccceeees re Gemeral NfOrmMatiOn’..

1.

a cies: cccsuticen. cotaceaes sakes steaceceact SRE iGer te

ea RRR

7

Information sensors.....

8 2 3

Pulse air system .......... Self-diagnostic codes (1991 and later models) AeSEription ANd: COE LEIOVING 2 .ccccceececsscsesnrsnsuntesasnnsssqnnsesusvecs Sees) Thermostatically controlled Air Cleaner (TAC) system (carburetor and TBl-equipped models through 1990).............. 4

6 1

checking and servicing becomes too difficult or if a procedure is beyond your ability, con-

General Information

Refer to illustration 1.6 To prevent pollution of the atmosphere from incompletely burned and evaporating gases, and to maintain good driveability and fuel economy, a number of emission control systems are incorporated. The principal sys-

tems are: Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system Evaporative emissions control system Thermostatically controlled Air Cleaner

‘ (TAC) system Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Catalytic converter Computerized.Emissions Contro! (CEC) system The sections in this Chapter include descriptions, checking procedures within the scope of the home mechanic and component replacement procedures (when possible) for each of the systems listed above. Before assuming an emissions control system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignition systems carefully. The diagnosis of some emission control devices requires specialized tools, equipment and training. If

sult a dealer service department or other qualified shop. Remember, the most frequent cause of emissions problems is simply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wire, so always check the hose and wiring connections first. This doesn't mean, however, that emission control systems are particularly difficult to maintain and repair. You can quickly. and easily perform many checks and do most of the regular maintenance at home with common tune-up and hand tools. Note: Because of a Federally-mandated extended warranty which covers the emission contro! system components, check with your dealer about warranty coverage before working on any emissions-related systems. Once the warranty has expired, you may wish to perform some of the component checks and/or replacement procedures in this Chapter to save money. Pay close attention to any special precautions outlined in this: Chapter. It should be noted that the illustrations of the various systems may not exactly match the system installed on your vehicle because of changes made by the manufacturer during production or from year-to-year. The Vehicle Emissions Control Informa-

tion (VEC) label is located in the engine compartment (see illustration). This label contains important emissions specifications and adjustment information. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, the VECI label in your particular vehicle should always be checked for up-to-date information.

2

Crankcase ventilation systems

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system (earlier models) Refer to illustrations 2.1a and 2.16 1 The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system (see illustrations) reduces hydrocarbon emissions by scavenging crankcase vapors. It does this by circulating fresh air from the air cleaner through the ‘crankcase, where it mixes with blow-by gases and is rerouted through a PCV valve to the intake manifold. 2 The main components of the PCV system are the PCV valve, a fresh air filtered inlet and the vacuum hoses connecting these two components with the engine. 4.2L six-cylinder engines also have a PCV shut-off © solenoid to shut off the flow of crankcase vapors to the intake manifold under certain operating conditions. FROM AIR CLEANER

THROTTLE BODY

FRONT OF VEHICLE >

HICLE CONFORMS b. ° a USS enor 16 1500 MODEL YEAR NEW LIGHTDUTT TRUCKS UNDER AN ELEVATION OF 2.000 po

hee

r 1Wrnss SERCO WENIELE

| GATALYST

|

'

\

\ 1 | |

{\

1.6 A typical Vehicle Emissions Control Information (VECI) label (1990 four-cylinder engine shown)

_

2.1a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system (four-cylinder engine)

./

FROM EVAP. CANISTER

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems CARBURETOR

PCV VALVE SHUT-OFF SOLENOID

PCV AIR OUT

PCV ORIFICE ‘

2.1b Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system (4.2L six-cylinder engine)

3. To maintain idle quality, the PCV valve restricts the flow when the intake manifold vacuum is high. lf abnormal operating conditions (such as piston ring problems) arise, the. system is designed to allow excessive amounts of blow-by gases to flow back through the crankcase vent tube into the air cleaner to be consumed by normal combustion. ‘4 ~~ Checking and replacement of the PCV valve and filter is covered in Chapter 1.

Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system (later models) Refer to illustrations 2.5a and 2.5b 5 Later fuel-injected models are equipped

with a Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system (see illustrations). The CCV system -» performs the same function as a conventional PCV system but does not use a vacuum con-

trolled valve. 6 A molded vacuum tube connects manifold vacuum to a grommet on the front of the valve cover (four-cylinder engine) or top rear of the cover (4.0L six-cylinder engine). The grommet contains a calibrated orifice that meters the amount of crankcase vapors drawn out of the engine. A fresh air supply

hose from the air cleaner is connected to the rear of the valve cover (four-cylinder engine) or the top front of the cover (4.0L six-cylinder engine). When the engine is operating, fresh air enters the engine and mixes with the

2.5a Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system (four-cylinder engine)

2

2.5b Close Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system (4.0L six-cylinder engine)

The system is very simple and consists

of a charcoal-filled canister, canister purge valve (and canister purge solenoid on some models), a combination rollover/pressure

relief valve and connecting lines and hoses. 3 When the pressure in the fuel tank exceeds 3 psi (caused by fuel evaporation), a pressure relief/rollover valve opens, preventing excessive pressure build-up in the tank and allowing the fuel vapors to flow to an evaporative canister containing charcoal that absorbs the fuel vapors (see illustration). On carbureted models, the carburetor float bowl is also vented to the evaporative canister to allow vapors from the float bowl to flow to the canister. When the engine is started (cold), the charcoal continues to absorb and store fuel vapor. As the engine warms up, the stored vapors are routed to the intake manifold or air cleaner and combustion chambers where they are burned during normal engine operation. 4 Acanister purge valve controls when the

3.3 A typical evaporative emissions charcoal-filtered canister - the arrow points to the purge valve stored

vapors

are allowed

actuated by intake manifold vacuum. On some models, system purging is not com-

3.6a A typical emissions control system vacuum schematic (1987 through 1989 four-cylinder engine) TO FUEL TANK

to flow to the

intake manifold or air cleaner. This valve is

TAC SENSOR AIR CLEANER

4

EGR CANISTER SOLENOID

THERMO CHECK VALVE

VACUUM MOTOR

crankcase vapors. Manifold vacuum draws the vapor/air mixture through the calibrated orifice and into the intake manifold. The vapors are consumed during combustion.

3.

Evaporative emissions control system

Refer to illustrations 3.3, 3.6a, 3.6b, 3.6c, 3.60 and 3.8

PCV VALVE

General description 1‘ This system is designed to trap and store fuel that evaporates from the fuel system that would normally enter the atmosphere in the form of hydrocarbon (HC) emissions.

031 RESTRICTOR 050 RESTRICTOR PCV CANISTER PURGE PURGE SIGNAL

FRONT OF VEHICLE

|

Chapter 6

DENOTES COLOR

Emissions control systems

|VAPOR & AIR HOSES@——>

CODED SIDES}

(C)

VACUUM HOSES emmmummn EGR VALVE

bate

|

(Oe

SOLEVAC

(G) Tp

i

oe

{ re

me HF)

/

»

;

iYpX—CAN PURGE TAC

momemememe

al

CANISTER

;

>

7/7 R/DELAY

CARB BOWL VENT TO F/TNK .050 IN. ORIFICE

ee :

AN

TEMP SEN

=a: menficag rae)

{||

: Yoke) TAC

6-3

eo

.

) ~=VAC

Th

PURGE SIG

MTR

ZNe FA

of |. gers |

: : — :

VAC MTR

AIR CLNR

aS), “Hpcv so

3.6b A typical emissions

“is > Ply) PCV VLV

NOY 53 (A #

é | O00}, Xoo

8

mmf

ae W/CHKERRVLV

oe( ‘

|

puter controlled and a coolant temperature switch in line between the intake manifold (or air cleaner) and canister purge valve assures that purging occurs only when coolant temperature is above 70-degrees F. On some models, the computer controls a solenoid that's in line between the intake manifold (or air cleaner) and purge valve. This solenoid

serves the same function as the coolant temperature switch.

5

FRONT OF

b

VEHICLE

VAC RSVR

m{ OO. =

VACUUM SWITCH ASSEMBLY

F/DELAY

.

~|DLE/DECEL SW

The relief valve, which is mounted in the

tion and other damage. The most common

fuel filler cap, opens to vent excessive pressure or vacuum in the fuel tank.

symptom of a problem with this system is a fuel odor under the hood, which is most often caused by a damaged canister or hoses. 7 To check the purge valve, unplug the upper vacuum hose from the valve (see illustration 3.3) and connect a hand vacuum pump in its place. Also unplug the purge hose leading to the intake manifold or air cleaner and attach a short piece of vacuum

Checking 6

schematic (4.2L sixcylinder engine)

jusmta,| PCV ORIFICE

DISTRIBUTOR

|

control system vacuum

AIR OUT

See Chapter 1 for information regarding

routine maintenance of the canister. Check

hoses and lines for misrouting, cracks, deterioration and other damage (see illustrations). Check the fuel tank filler gasket for deforma-

;TO FUEL TANK ’ EGR VALVE

MAP SENSOR AIR CLEANER

ee

TAC SENSOR

VACUUM MOTOR

THROTTLE BODY

3.6c A typical emissions control system vacuum schematic (1990 and later four-cylinder engine) ’

!

{

FRONT OF

VEHICLE

Zi

y)

.031 IN. RESTRICTOR .050 IN. RESTRICTOR PCV/CANISTER PURGE PURGE SIGNAL

EGR/CANISTER SOLENOID

VAPOR & AIR HOSES (——) VACUUM HOSES Sie

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

6-4

MAP SENSOR

ey

.050 ORIFICE

VACUUM eerrIRIG

-—.

S

|

3.6d A typical emissions control system vacuum

schematic (4.0L six-cylinder engine)

CANISTER

VAPOR & AIR HOSES VACUUM

HOSES

C= Saaz

EGR SOLENOID AIR CLEANER VACUUM MOTOR

PRESSURE REG

hose in its place. When vacuum is applied with the vacuum pump, you should be able to blow through the length of vacuum hose attached to the purge hose port. When no vacuum is applied, you should not be able to blow through the hose. 8 Tocheck the purge solenoid (models so equipped) (see illustration), unplug the electrical connector from the solenoid and apply -battery voltage to the terminals using two jumper wires. You should hear a click if the solenoid is operating properly. Caution: Don't leave the jumper wires connected to the solenoid any longer than necessary to perform this check.

4

Thermostatically controlled Air Cleaner (TAC) system (carburetor and TBl-equipped models through 1990)

Refer to illustration 4.1

_ General description 1 The Thermostatic Air Cleaner (TAC) provides heated intake air during warmup, then maintains the inlet air temperature within a 70-degrees F to 105-degrees F operating range by mixing warm and cool air. This allows leaner fuel/air mixture settings for the carburetor or throttle body, which reduces emissions and improves driveability (see

illustration). 2.

The TAC system is comprised of the following major components: a) A heat shroud that partially encloses the exhaust manifold. b) A heated air tube. c) A special air cleaner assembly equipped with a bi-metal temperature sensor. d) Atime delay valve. e) Acheck valve.

f) A vacuum motor. g) A heat duct valve assembly.

3.8 A typical evaporative emissions system purge solenoid - on some models (like the one shown here) the solenoid also controls vacuum to the EGR valve

3 Avacuum motor, which operates a heat duct valve in the air cleaner, etc. maintains a balance between two fresh air inlets - one hot and one cold - and is actuated by the intake manifold vacuum. 4 When the engine temperature is cold, warm air radiating off the exhaust manifold is “hy

4.1 A typical thermostatically controlled air cleaner (six-cylinder engine shown, four-cylinder engine similar) Air cleaner cover PCV valve filter Bi-metal temperature sensor Check valve Vacuum motor Heated air tube Ambient body (cold) air duct Time delay valve ; Trap door assembly (not on all models) —SOANDAAWNDYH= Trap door time delay valve (not on all models) . ee

Chapter 6 routed, by a shroud which fits over the manifold, up through a heated air tube and into the air cleaner. This provides warm air for the poarburetor or TBI, resulting in better driveabil-

ity and faster warmup. As the temperature inside the air cleaner rises, the heat duct valve is gradually closed by the vacuum motor (which, in turn is controlled by a bimetal temperature sensor inside the air cleaner) and the air cleaner draws air through a cold (ambient) air duct instead. The result is a consistent intake air temperature.

5 On sorné models, a trap door system opens ina similar manner to close off the air cleaner from the outside air when the engine is inoperative.

Checking General operation Note: Make sure the engine is cold before beginning this test. 6 Always check the vacuum source and the integrity of all vacuum hoses between the source and the vacuum motor before beginning the following test. Do not proceed until all cracked and broken hoses have been replaced. 7 Apply the parking brake and block the

wheels. , 8 Detach the flexible duct (if equipped) from the air cleaner snorkel (see Chapter 4). 9 With the engine off, observe the heat duct valve inside the air cleaner snorkel. It should be fully open to cold air. If it isn't, it might be binding or sticking. Make sure it's not rusted in an open or closed position by attempting top move it by hand. If it’s rusted, it can usually be freed by cleaning and oiling the hinge. !f it fails to work properly after servicing, replace it. 10 Start the engine. Note the position of the heat duct valve. Now it should be fully closed to incoming coid air. 11 Have an assistant rapidly depress and release the accelerator 1/2 to 3/4 of its travel. The heat duct valve should briefly remain stationary, then move to the cold air position,

then back to the heated air position. 12 Loosely attach the flexible duct to the air cleaner and warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Remove the flexible duct and observe the heat duct valve. It should be either fully open or at a mixture position (half open) that provides the correct temperature for the inlet air to the carburetor or TBI. 13: Stop the engine and connect the flexible duct to the air cleaner. 14 \f the heat duct valve does not function as described above, look for a mechanical bind in the linkage and disconnected vacuum hoses or air leaks at the vacuum motor, bimetal sensor, time delay valve, check valve, intake manifold or vacuum hoses. 15 If the heat duct valve manually operates freely and you cannot find any hose disconnections or leaks, attach a hose from an intake manifold vacuum source directly to the vacuum motor and start the engine.

a) If the heat duct valve closes, either the

6-5

Emissions control systems

thermal switch, time delay valve or check valve is defective. b) If the heat duct valve does not close, replace the vacuum motor.

Bi-metal temperature sensor

and tilt it to one side to clear the door arm. Remove the motor. 36 Installation is the reverse ar removal. If you don't have a rivet tool, you'll need a selftapping sheet-metal screw of the correct diameter to attach the vacuum’ motor to the

16 Detach the two vacuum hoses from the sensor. 17 If necessary, remove the sensor (see

does not interfere with the movement of the trap door.

replacement procedure below) and cool it below 40-degrees F in a freezer. 18 Attach a vacuum pump to one of the sensor's vacuum fittings and a vacuum gauge to the other fitting. 19 Apply 14 in-Hg. vacuum to the sensor. 20 With the sensor at a temperature below 40-degrees F, the gauge should indicate a vacuum. Disconnect the vacuum pump momentarily to relieve the vacuum. 21 Warm the sensor above 55-degrees F and again attempt to apply vacuum. There

should not be steady vacuum reading on the gauge. 22 Replace the sensor if it's defective.

Component replacement Note: Before replacing the following components, check on parts availability. On some models the components can only be replaced with a complete air cleaner assembly.

Heat duct valve vacuum

motor

bracket. Make sure the rivet (or the screw)

5

General description Refer to illustration 5.5 1 The Pulse Air system, used on earlier models, uses the alternating pressure and . vacuum pulsation created in the exhaust system to draw air into the exhaust system. This additional air aids in further burning of

exhaust gasses in the exhaust system, resulting in lower emissions. Air is supplied from the filtered side of the air cleaner through a hose to the air control valve, which is controlled by the computer. When opened by the air switch solenoid, the air valve allows air to flow to the air injection check valve, through which it enters the exhaust system. The following explains the components of the system:

a) The air injection check valve is a reed valve that is opened and closed by the vacuum and pressure exhaust pulsations. During vacuum pulsations, atmospheric pressure opens the check valve and forces air into the exhaust system. b) The air control valve controls the supply of filtered air routed to the air injection check valve. The valve is opened and . Closed by the air switch solenoid.

23 Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 4) 24 Clearly label, then detach the vacuum hose from the heat duct valve vacuum motor. 25 Drill out the rivet which secures the heat duct valve vacuum motor to the air cleaner snorkel. 26

Lift the motor and tilt it to one side to

detach the motor linkage from the heat duct valve assembly. Remove the motor: 27 Installation is the reverse of removal. If you don't have a rivet tool, you'll need a selftapping sheet-metal screw of the correct diameter to attach the vacuum motor to the snorkel. Make sure the rivet (or the screw) does not interfere with the movement of the duct valve.

c) The air switch solenoid controls the air

Control valve by switching vacuum to the air control valve on and off during varying operating conditions. The solenoid is controlled by the computer. d) Vacuum is stored in the vacuum storage reservoir until it's released by the air ‘ switch solenoid. e) Depending on operating conditions, the computer switches the air injection point to and from the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter. The computer does this by energizing and de-energizing the air switch solenoids.

Bi-metal temperature sensor 28 Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 4). 29 Detach the two vacuum hoses from the sensor. 30 Pry up the tabs on the sensor retaining clip. Remove the clip, gasket and sensor from the air cleaner. Before removing the sensor, note its position in relation to the air

cleaner to ensure proper reassembly. 31 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to use a new gasket.

Trap door vacuum motor 32 33

Remove the air cleaner (see Chapter 4). Clearly label, then detach the vacuum

hoses from the heat duct valve motor, bimetal sensor and the trap door vacuum motor.

34 Drill out the rivet which secures the trap door vacuum motor to the bracket. 35 Lift the vacuum motor from the bracket

Pulse air system

Checking 2 Because of the complexity of the Pulse Air system, it is difficult to diagnose a malfunctioning system at home. However, if you suspect the system is malfunctioning, a simple inspection is as follows: 3

Inspect

all hoses,

vacuum

lines and

wires. Be sure they are in good condition and all connections are clean and tight. 4 If there is still a malfunction in the system take the vehicle to a dealer service department or a certified emission control repair shop for testing.

@

6-6

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Component replacement 5 To replace Pulse Air system components, refer to the accompanying exploded view of the Pulse Air system (see illustration).

6

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system (1987 through 1990 models)

- Caution: Do not operate the engine (other than temporarily for testing) with any EGR system components disconnected or not operating as designed. Doing so can lead to severe engine damage from detonation.

General description Refer to illustration 6.2 1 This system recirculates a portion of the exhaust gases into the intake manifold to reduce the combustion temperatures and thus decrease the amount of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust. 2 The main component in the system is the EGR valve. The EGR valve is a vacuumcontrolled device which regulates the amount of exhaust gas bled into the intake. Some sixcylinder engines use a backpressure transducer (normally mounted near the EGR valve) (see illustration). The backpressure transducer measures the amount of exhaust gas backpressure on the exhaust side of the EGR valve and varies the strength of the vacuum signal to the EGR valve based on backpressure. The transducer uses this signal to provide the correct amount of recirculated exhaust gas under various conditions. 3. The EGR valves on later four-cylinder and all 4.0L six-cylinder engines use an EGR solenoid. The EGR solenoid is controlled by the computer. When energized by the computer, the solenoid closes and prevents vacuum ftom reaching the EGR valve. When it's not energized, the solenoid is open and vacuum is applied to the EGR valve. The computer monitors engine coolant temperature and other operating conditions to determine when EGR operation is desired. On many four-cylinder engines, one solenoid controls - vacuum to both the EGR valve and the canister purge valve (see illustration 3.8). 4 EGR‘systems on earlier four-cylinder and all 4.2L six-cylinder engines are not computer controlled. They use a Coolant Temperature Override (CTO) valve and a Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS). The CTO restricts vacuum flow to the EGR valve when coolant temperature is below about 115-degrees F. The TVS, located in the air cleaner, restricts vacuum flow to the EGR valve when intake air temperature is below about 50-degrees F. 5 Common engine problems associated with the EGR system are rough idling, stalling at idle, rough engine performance during light throttle application and stalling during decel-

eration.

Keep

exhaust

system

in mind

that

backpressure

changes

in

(caused

by

5.5 An exploded view of a typical Pulse Air System

Air cleaner Air cleaner-to-downstream air control valve vacuum hose Air cleaner-to-upstream air control valve vacuum hose

Upstream vacuum hose Upstream air control valve Downstream air control valve Upstream check valve hose Downstream vacuum hose Downstream check valve hose DCOONDARK

Upstream check valve Downstream check valve Downstream tube-to-converter Upstream tube-to-exhaust pipe Air switch solenoid (upstream) Air switch solenoid (downstream) Control wires from computer (downstream) Control wires from computer (upstream) Vacuum storage reservoir

\EcR

(ie

|

ee

es

=

TRANSDUCER ib: VACUUMS INLET C HOSE

©

ee

eTele

6.2 A typical EGR valve and

vacuum transducer on a six-cylinder engine (4.0L six-cylinder shown)-

Chapter 6

6-7

Emissions control systems 22

Replace the CTO valve if vacuum is indi-

cated. 23 Run the engine until coolant temperature reaches or exceeds 115-degrees F. 24 With the engine rpm at 1500, vacuum

should be indicated. If not, replace the CTO valve.

Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS) 25 The TVS is located in the air cleaner. Cool the TVS to approximately 40-degrees F (it may be necessary to.remove the switch and refrigerate it), disconnect the vacuum hose from the TVS inner port and connect a hand-operated vacuum pump in its place. 26 Apply vacuum to the TVS. The TVS check valve should maintain a vacuum. If not,

6.7 Location of the EGR valve on fourcylinder models - when checking the valve, remove the vacuum hose and connect a hand vacuum pump

6.20 A typical CTO valve - it is normally threaded into the intake manifold

blockage or leaks) can cause the EGR system to malfunction, sometimes resulting in driveability problems.

Checking Warning: Use extreme caution when the engine is running. Do not stand in line with the engine cooling fan. Keep your hands away from the pulleys, belts or fan. Do not wear loose clothing.

General Refer to illustration 6.7 6 With the engine at normal operating temperature, the parking brake set and the wheels blocked, have an assistant raise the engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm ~* while you watch the EGR valve stem. It should move, indicating the EGR valve is opening. If it does not open, the EGR valve is

not receiving vacuum or the EGR valve is malfunctioning. 7 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and connect a hand vacuum pump in its place (see the accompanying illustration or illustration 6.2). With the engine idling, apply about 15 in-Hg of vacuum. The valve should hold vacuum, it should open and the engine should run roughly. or stall.

a) If the valve holds vacuum and opens, but the engine does not run roughly or stall, the EGR valve and/or passages (in the intake manifold) are clogged or the

EGR

tube is corroded,

damaged

or

clogged. Remove the components and clean or replace them as necessary. b) If the valve does not hold vacuum, the valve diaphragm is ruptured. Replace the valve. c) If the valve holds vacuum but does not. open, the valve is stuck. Replace it.

EGR solenoid

8

Apply the parking brake’and block the

wheels. 9 Warm the engine to normal operating

1 2

Inlet port (to a ported vacuum source) Outlet port (to the TVS)

temperature and perform the following checks with the engine idling. 10 Check the vacuum to the solenoid (it should be 15 in-Hg minimum). If vacuum is low or non-existent, check for kinks, twists or loose connections of the vacuum hoses and lines. 11. If the vacuum is OK, reconnect the vacuum line to the input port and connect a vacuum gauge to the solenoid output port. 12 If vacuum reads zero, go to the next step. If the gauge is reading a vacuum, have the solenoid and the ECU checked by the dealer service department or other qualified shop. 13 Disconnect the electrical corinector at the solenoid. There should now be vacuum at the output port. If not, replace the EGR valve solenoid.

Backpressure transducer 14 Disconnect the vacuum output, input and backpressure lines. Remove the transducer. 15 Plug the output port, connect a handoperated vacuum pump to the input port. 16 Apply 1 to 2 psi of air pressure to the backpressure port with a hand-operated air

pump. 17 Using the hand-operated pump, apply 12 in-Hg of vacuum.

vacuum

18 The transducer must be replaced if it does not hold a vacuum.

Coolant Temperature Override

(CTO) valve Refer to illustration 6.20 19 Inspect vacuum hoses for air leaks, correct routing and loose connections. 20 Disconnect the outlet hose from the

CTO (leading to the TVS) and connect a vacuum gauge to the outlet port on the CTO (see illustration). 21. Start the engine and run at approximately 1500 rpm (engine cold). No vacuum should be present.

replace the TVS. : 27 Start the engine. When air cleaner intake air temperature is above 50-degrees F, vacuum should not remain. Replace the TVS if vacuum is maintained.

Component replacement EGR valve and (if equipped) transducer 28 Locate the EGR valve on the intake manifold (see illustration 6.2 or 6.7). 29 Remove the air cleaner assembly or the air horn assembly from the throttle body as needed for access (See Chapter 4). 30 Detach the vacuum hose from the EGR valve or EGR valve vacuum transducer. 31 Remove the two EGR valve mounting bolts.

;

32 Remove the EGR valve, the old gasket and restrictor plate (if so equipped). Discard the old gasket. 33 Clean the gasket mating surfaces of the intake manifold and the EGR valve (if you're not installing a new one). Use a gasket scraper, then clean the surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. 34 Clean all exhaust passages in the intake manifold to insure a free flow. 35 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be

sure to use a new gasket.

Coolant Temperature Override (CTO) valve ‘ Warning: Never remove the radiator cap until the engine has cooled completely (at least five hours after the engine has been run). 36 Drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). 37 Detach the vacuum hoses, making sure

all hoses are marked for easier installation. 38 Using-an open-end wrench, remove the CTO valve from the intake manifold. 39 Clean the threaded of hole in the intake manifold to remove corrosion and old sealant. 40 Use Teflon tape on the threads of the new CTO valve. 41 - Installation is the reverse of the removal. 42 Fill the cooling system (See Chapter 1).

Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS) 43 Remove the air cleaner. 44 Detach and label the vacuum from the TVS.

hoses

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems INTAKE MANIFOLD

6.55 Typical six-cylinder engine EGR tube installation details (4.0L six-cylinder engine shown, 4.2L six-cylinder engine similar)

EGR TUBE

6.48 EGR tube removal (four-cylinder engine)

45 TVS 46 ' 47

Detach the retaining clip(s) attaching the to the air cleaner. Remove the TVS from the air cleaner. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

EGR tube (four-cylinder engine) Refer to illustration 6.48

48

Remove the EGR tube-to-exhaust mani-

fold bolts (see illustration). 49 Using a flare-nut wrench (if available), unscrew the EGR tube nut at the intake man-

ifold. 50 Remove the tube and discard the gasket. 51. Clean the gasket mating surface with a scraper, then wipe it with a rag soaked in lacquer thinner or acetone.

52

Install the EGR tube. Install the EGR

tube line nut to the intake manifold first. 53 Connect the EGR tube to the exhaust manifold. Be sure to use a new gasket.

EGR tube (six-cylinder engine) Refer to illustration 6.55 54 Toremove the EGR tube, it may be necessary to loosen the exhaust manifold mounting bolts (see Chapter 2 Part B). 55 Using a flare-nut wrench (if available), loosen the EGR tube line nuts at the intake and exhaust manifolds (see illustration). 56 Remove the EGR tube. 57 Install the EGR tube, but don't tighten the line nuts at this time. 58 Tighten the intake manifold line nut first. 59 Tighten the exhaust manifold line nut next.

60 If loosened, tighten the exhaust manifold bolts to the torque listed in the Specifications in Chapter 2, Part B.

7

Catalytic converter

Note: Because of a Federally mandated extended warranty which covers emissionsrelated components such as the catalytic converter, check with a dealer service department before replacing the converter at your

own expense.

General description

Component replacement

1 ‘The catalytic converter is an emissions contro! device added to the exhaust system to reduce pollutants from the exhaust ‘gas stream. Two types of converters are used. Your vehicle may be equipped with either of the two. The conventional oxidation catalyst reduces the levels of hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO). The three-way catalyst lowers the levels of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) as well as HC and CO.

5 Refer to the information on exhaust system component replacement in Chapter 4.

Checking 2 The test equipment for a catalytic converter is expensive and highly sophisticated. If you suspect that the converter on your vehicle is malfunctioning, take it to a dealer or authorized emissions inspection facility for diagnosis and repair. 3. Whenever the vehicle is raised for servicing of underbody components, check the converter for leaks, corrosion, dents and other damage. Check the welds/flange blots that attach the front and rear ends of the converter to the exhaust system. If damage is discovered, the converter should be replaced. ‘4 Although catalytic converters don't break too often, they do become plugged.

The easiest way to check for a restricted converter is to use a vacuum gauge to diagnose the effect of a blocked exhaust on intake vacuum. a) Open the throttle until the engine speed is about 2000 rpm. b) Release the throttle quickly. c) If there is no restriction, the gauge will

quickly drop to not more than 2 in-Hg or more above its normal reading. d) If the gauge does not show 5 in-Hg or more above its normal reading, or seems to momentarily hover around its highest reading for a moment before it returns, the exhaust system, or the converter, is plugged (or an exhaust pipe is bent or dented, or the core inside the muffler has shifted). 4

8

Computerized Emission Control (CEC) systems These

vehicles

are

equipped

with

a

computer to monitor and control engine functions. The computer goes by various names on the models covered by this manual: a) Micro Computer Unit (MCU) (1987 through 1989 models) , b) Electronic Control Unit (ECU) (1990 and 1991 models) c) Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) (1990 and 1991 models) d) Single Board Engine Controller Il (SBEC Il) (1992 and later models) e) Powertrain Control Module (PCM) (1993 and later models). These systems monitor various engine operating conditions and adjust the air/fuel mixture, ignition timing,

engine idle speed, etc. to promote better fuel economy, improve driveability and reduce exhaust emissions. Each of the systems used on the various models covered by this manual includes a computer and many information sensors and output actuators. The information sensors inform the computer of the vehicle's current operating parameters,

the computer

com-

pares this information to its "map" (which tells what these parameters should be), and, if the information does not match the map,

the computer sends signals to the output actuators to alter engine operation to match the map. Information sensors are discussed in Section 10 of this Chapter. Output actuators include the following: . a) Carburetor mixture contro! solenoid or

fuel injector(s) (see Chapter 4) b) EGR/evaporative emissions solenoid(s) (see Sections 3 and 6) ¢) Ignition control module (see Chapter 5)

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

Self-diagnostic codes }code |

Probable cause

Probable cause

Co [ates 2 |anon a seer i [serena aan | ee ae aon = Air conditioning clutch relay

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor vacuum

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor electrical Distance sensor or circuit

Engine running too cool

a eee

Oxygen sensor or circuit a

Coolant temperature sensor or circuit MAT sensor or circuit Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) sensor or « Circuit

Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) circuit 27 oan

-F\

Emissions Maintenance Reminder (EMR) mileage accumulator

Fuel injector control | EVAP solenoid or circuit

Controller failure EEPROM write denied

Trouble code chart - 1991 through 1995 models

d) Pulse air switch solenoids (see Section 5) e) Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor or idle stepper motor (see Chapter 4) . f) Fuel pump relay (see Chapter 4)

Complete diagnosis of the computerized emission control system is beyond the scope the home mechanic. Fortunately, all of these systems are protected by a Federally

mandated

extended

warranty

(5 years/

50,000 miles, or whichever comes first, at the

time this manual was written). This warranty covers all emissions control components (EGR, PCV, CCV, Pulse Air, evaporative control systems, information sensors, the catalytic converter, etc.). It also covers emissions related parts like the carburetor, certain fuel injection components, exhaust manifold ahd major ignition system components (the distributor, ignition wires and coil, spark plugs, etc.). Contact a dealer service department for further details regarding the coverage for your vehicle; he is obligated by Federal law to provide you with a detailed list of the emission related parts on your vehicle which are protected by the Federal warranty. If your vehicle is out of warranty and you suspect a problem with the computerized | emissions control system, the next two Sections in this Chapter are designed to help you diagnose the system. If you are uncertain what the problem is after using these two

Sections, take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other qualified shop that has

the special equipment and expertise to diagnose these systems completely.

9

Self-diagnostic codes (1991 and later models) - description and code retrieving

Refer to illustration 9.2 Note: The diagnostic trouble codes on all models can be extracted from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) using a specialized SCAN tool. On 1991 THROUGH 1997 models only, the PCM can-be placed in the diagnostic mode and the trouble codes flashed on the Check Engine light. On 1998 and later

9.2 Scanners like the Actron Scantool and the

AutoXray XP240 are powerful diagnostic aids - programmed with comprehensive diagnostic information, they can tell you just about anything you want to know about your engine management system

models, have the vehicle diagnosed by a dealer service department or other qualified automotive repair facility if the proper SCAN

tool is not available. 1. The PCM will illuminate the CHECK ENGINE light (also known as the Malfunction . Indicator Lamp) on the dash if it recognizes a fault in the system. The light will remain illu- minated until the problem is repaired and the code is cleared or the PCM does not detect . any malfunction for several consecutive drive cycles. 2 The diagnostic codes for the On Board Diagnostic (OBD) system can be extracted from the PCM using a SCAN tool on all models (see illustration). On 1991 through 1997

ey ;

6-10

Chapter 6

Emissions control systems

%

Generic Scan

Check Engine Light Flash Code

PAB em feo

Tool Code

ae

Description of Diagnostic Trouble Code

play

P0340

No Cam Signal at PCM

No camshaft signal detected during engine cranking.

P0601

Internal Controller

PCM Internal fault condition detected.

Failure

P0162

47

Los

Charging System Voltage Too Low

Battery voltage sense input below target charging during engine operation. Also, no significant change detected in battery voltage during active test of generator output circuit. Battery voltage sense input above target charging| voltage during engine operation. .

; P1594

Charging System Voltage Too High

P1388

Auto Shutdown Relay Control Circuit

|

| An open or shorted condition detected in the auto shutdown relay circuit.

Generator Field Not ae

|

An open or shorted condition detected in the

Switching Properly

generator field control circuit.

P0743

Torque Converter Clutch Soleniod/Trans Relay Circuits _

An open or shorted condition detected in the torque converter part throttle unlock solenoid control circuit (3 speed auto RH trans. only).

P1491

Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit

| An open or shorted condition detected in the low | speed radiator fan relay control circuit (2.5L only).

Speed Control Solenoid Circuits

|

P1595 oe

P0645 | P0443

27

P0505 ?

An open or shorted condition detected in the Speed Control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits.

A/C Clutch Relay Circuit | An open or shorted condition detected in the A/C : clutch relay circuit. EVAP Purge Solenoid | An open or shorted condition detected in the duty Circuit 5 cycle purge solenoid circuit. Injector #3 Control Circuit

Injector #3 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.

injector #2 Control Circuit

Injector #2 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.

Injector #1 Control Circuit |

:

Injector #1 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.

Idle Air Control Motor

A shorted or open condition detected in one or

Circuits

more of the idle air contro! motor circuits.

Throttle Position Sensor | Throttle position sensor input below the minimum Voltage Low acceptable voltage

| Throttle Position Sensor

Throttle position sensor input above the maximum acceptable voltage.

Voltage High

P0117

|

Battery power to PCM was disconnected

4

a

f

_ | ECT Sensor Voltage Too | Engine coolant temperature sensor input below | | Low minimum acceptable voltage.

Trouble code chart - 1997 and later models "{

.

we Chapter 6

Check Engine Light Flash Code |

Generic Scan Tool Code

Emissions control systems

sides moe

ae

ey

6-11

Description of Diagnostic Trouble Code_

|

or

P0118 17

1281 ee

ECT Sensor Voltage Too : High | Engine Is Cold Too Long

Engine coolant temperature sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage.

MAP Sensor Voltage | Too Low

-MAP sensor input below minimum acceptable voltage. |

MAP Sensor Voltage Too High No. Change in MAP From Start to Run i No Crank Reference

MAP sensor input above maximum acceptable voltage. No difference recognized between the engine MAP reading and the barometric (atmospheric) pressure reading from start-up. No crank reference signal detected during engine

Signal at PCM

cranking.

P0107

Engine did not reach operating temperature within acceptable limits.

or P0108

|

P1297

P0320 © - P0351

Ignition Coil #1 Primary Circuit | No ASD Relay Output Voltage at PCM

P1389

P1696

_

|

P0753

if)

Peak primary circuit current not achieved with maximum dwell time. An Open condition Detected in The ASD Relay Output Circuit

PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied

Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the PCM

Trans 3-4 Shift

Current state of output port for the solenoid is

| Sol/Trans Relay Circuits | P0112

|

or P0113

.

different from expected state.

Intake Air Temp Sensor ‘| Voltage Low

Intake air temperature sensor input below the maximum acceptable voltage. ¢

Intake Air Temp Sensor Voltage High

Intake air temperature sensor input above the minimum acceptable voltage.

\

nNoJ

P0204

)

P0132 P0154

POQ600

|

Injector #4 Control Circuit .

|

injector #4 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.

|

Left Upstream 02S

Oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above

Shorted to Voltage

the normal operating range.

O2 2/1 Signal Inactive

No signal at O2 2/1 sensor

O2 2/1 Shorted High

Oxygen sensor input voltage sustained above the normal operating range.

PCM Failure SPI Communications

PCM internal fault condition detected

injector #5 Control Circuit

Injector #5 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.

injector 46 Control Circuit

Injector #6 output driver does not respond properly to the control signal.

Trans Temp Sensor

Voltage less than 1.55 volts.

- Voltage Too Low

Trouble code chart - 1997 and later models (continued)

:

y4

i

6-12

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Check Engine

Generic Scan P0713

|

‘tic

DRB Scan Tool Dis-

Trouble

Code

Trans Temp Sensor Voltage Too High

Voltage greater than 3.76 volts.

Injector #7 Control

Injector #7 output driver does not respond

Circuit

properly to the control signal.

Injector #8Control Circuit

Injector#8 output driver does not respond properly to the control sianal.

Speed control switch input above the maximum acceptable voltage. Speed control switch input below the minimum acceptable voltage.

Oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency.

Upstream oxygen sensor heating element circuit malfunction O2 1/1 Slow Response

Oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency.

O2 1/2 Heater Circuit

Oxygen sensor heating element circuit

Multiple Cylinder Mis-fire

Misfire detected in multiple cylinders.

Cylinder #1 Mis-fire

Misfire detected in cylinder #1.

Cylinder #2 Mis-fire

Misfire detected in cylinder #2.

Cylinder #3 Mis-fire

Misfire detected in cylinder #3.

Cylinder #4 Mis-fire

Misfire detected in cylinder #4

|

:

Trouble code chart - 1997 and later models (continued) \

malfunction.

oe

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems

Toe

Check Engine Light Fiash Code

Generic Scan Too! Code

|

DRB

oa

a

-

.

6-13

. Description of Diagnostic Trouble Code

P0175

Fuel System 2/1 Rich

A rich air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally lean correction factor.

P0174

Fuel System 2/1 Lean

A lean air/fuel mixture has been indicated by an abnormally lean correction factor.

O2 2/1 Slow Response

Oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency.

O2 2/1 Slow Response

Oxygen sensor response slower than minimum required switching frequency. Oxygen sensor heater element malfunction.

i

P0155

O2 2/1 Heater circuit

P0161

O2 2/1 Heater circuit

P0138

|

Left Bank Downstream or Downstream and Pre-Catalyst O2S

|

| | Oxygen sensor heater element malfunction. Oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above | the normal operating range.

Shorted to Voliage P0158 17

O2 2/2 Shorted High

Oxygen sensor input voltage maintained above ~ the normal operating range.

| Closed Loop Temp Not | Engine does not reach 20°F within'5 minutes with Reached .a vehicle speed signal. TPS Voltage Does Not Agree With MAP

PS signal does not correlate to MAP sensor :

P1296

No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor

'

5 Volt output to MAP sensor open.

P1294

Target Idle Not Reached

P1756

Governor Pressure Not | Governor sensor input not between'10 and 25 psi. Equal to Target @ 15-20 | when requested. PSI ;

Actual idle speed does not equal target idle speed.

or

37

:

P1757

Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI In Gear With 0 MPH

Governor pressure greater than 3 psi when requested to be 0 psi.

P0740

Torq Conv Clu, No RPM Drop At Lockup

Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement (auto. trans. only).

Fuel Level Sending Unit Volts Too Low

Open circuit between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit.

Fuel Level Sending Unit Volts Too High

Circuit shorted to voltage between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit.

Fuel Level Unit No

No movement of fuel level sender detected.

¥

aed (¢%)i) ~“

Change Over Miles

P1493

Ambient/Batt Temp Sen VoltsToo Low

Battery temperature sensor input voltage below an acceptable range.

Of P1492

: Ambient/Batt Temp Sensor VoltsToo High

Battery temperature sensor input voltage above an acceptable range.

Trouble code chart - 1997 and later models (continued)

|

6-14

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems -

Check Engine | Light Flash Code |

Generic Scan Tool Code :

|

DRB Scan Tool Dis-

|

Description of Diagnostic Trouble Code

play Left Bank and Upstream : | O2 sensor voltage too low, tested after cold start.

P0131

=

is

O2S Shorted to Ground Gedy

| Downstream, Left Bank | Downstream and .

P0137

Pre-Catalyst O2S Shorted to Ground

:

| O2 sensor voltage too low, tested after cold start. | BOR

|

ie

Intermittent Loss of CMP | Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft

P1391

or CKP

P0442

|

oes P0711

:

Evap Leak Monitor _ Small Leak Detected

position sensor

A-small leak has been detected by the leak detection monitor

|

Evap Leak Monitor Large Leak Detected

The leak detection monitor is unable to pressurize Evap system, indicating a large leak.

Trans Temp Sensor, No

Sump temp did not rise more than 16°F within 10

Rise After Start

minutes when starting temp is below 40°F or sump temp is above 260°F with coolant below 100°F. —

|

37

P0783

| 3-4 Shift Sol, NoRPM Drop @ 3-4 Shift

|

P0720

|

The ratio of engine rpm/output shaft speed did

|

not change beyond on the minimum required.

Low Ouput Spd Sensor

Output shaft speed is less than 60 rpm with

RPM Above 15 mph

vehicle speed above 15 mph.

Governor Pessure Sensor Volts Too Low

Voltage less than .10 volts.

Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too HI

Voltage greater than 4.89 volts.

Governor Press Sen

Sensor input greater or less than calibration for 3 _ consecutive Neutral/Park occurances.

Offset Volts Too Lo or High

|

P0748

| Governor Pressure Sol Control/Trans Relay

:

|

Current state of solenoid output port is different

|

_

than expected.

Circuits P1765

|

See

ane

Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Ctrl Circuit

Current state of solenoid output port is different than expeted.

Cylinder #5 Mis-fire

Misfire detected in cylinder #5.

| Cylinder #6 Mis-fre

i

Misfire detected in cylinder #6.

|

Cylinder #7 Mis-fire

|

Misfire detected in cylinder #7.

|

Cylinder #8 Mis-fire

|

‘Misfire detected in cylinder #8.

Catalyst 2/1 EFFIC

02 ai Voltage Low

|

Catalyst 2/1 efficiency below required level

|

TRANSMISSION o HOUSING

6-18

Chapter 6 ’ SEAL RETAINER

Emissions control systems

;

INE

10.50 Camshaft position sen-

Centerline

dealer service department or service station at the earliest opportunity.

10

Bulb replacement

Refer to illustrations 10.1a, 10.1b, 10.1c,

10.2, 10.3a, 10.36 and 10.4 Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24).

1 The lenses of many lights are held in place by screws, which makes it a simple

hes Pit eas

ae shi

tees

_ Position a horizontal tape line in refer-

ence to the centerline of all the headlights. Note: /t may be easier to position the tape on the wall with the vehicle parked only a few inches away. 5 Adjustment should be made with the vehicle sitting level, the gas tank half-full and no unusually heavy load in the vehicle. 6 Starting with the low beam adjustment, position the high intensity zone so it is two inches below the horizontal line and two inches to the side of the headlight vertical line away from oncoming traffic. Adjustment is made by turning the top adjusting screw clockwise to raise the beam and counterclockwise to lower the beam. The adjusting screw on the side should be used in the same manner to move the beam left or right. 7 ~ With the high beams on, the high intensity zone should be vertically centered with the exact center just below the horizontal line. Note: It may not be possible to position the headlight aim exactly for both high and low beams. If a compromise must be made, keep in mind that the low beams are the most used and have the greatest effect on driver safety.

8

“ joe ahs -*

50029-12-19.3 HAYNES

9.2 Headlight aiming details

12-6

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

10.1a The front parking light bulbs are

10.1c ...and the center high-mount stop light bulb (1997 and later models)

accessible after removing the screws

(arrows) and lens...

BULB

FOG LAMP HOUSING

REFLECTOR HOUSING

RETAINER

- 10.2 To replace a fog light bulb, remove the reflector from the housing, pull out the bulb retainer and remove the bulb from the retainer (1997 and later models)

procedure to gain access to the bulbs (see

illustrations). On some lights the lenses are held in place by clips. The lenses can be removed either by unsnapping them or by using a small screwdriver to pry them off. 2 To replace a fog light bulb, remove the reflector-to-fog light housing screws, pull the reflector assembly out of the housing (see illustration), squeeze the bulb retainer together, pull it out of the reflector and remove the bulb from the retainer. Installation is the reverse of removal. 3 Several types of bulbs are used. Some are removed by pushing in and turning them counterclockwise (see illustrations). Others can simply be unclipped from the terminals or pulled straight out of the socket. 4 To gain access to the instrument panel lights, the instrument cluster will have to be removed first (see Section 18) (see illustration).

11

10.3a Turn the parking light bulb holder to align the tabs, then withdraw it from the bezel housing — push the bulb in and turn it counterclockwise to remove it ,

Radio Refer to illustrations 11.4

1

Disconnect the negative cable at the

battery. 2 On 1987 through 1995 models, remove the instrument panel (see Chapter 11). On 1997 and later models, remove the center bezel (see Section 22 in Chapter 11). 3 Remove the radio retaining screws. 4 Slide the radio out and support it, dis-

10.3b The tail light bulb is also removed by turning it counterclockwise and withdrawing it connect the ground cable, antenna and electrical connectors, then remove the assembly from the instrument panel (see illustration). 5 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Speakers 1987 through 1995 models Passenger side 6 Reach up behind the right side of the instrument panel and remove the four nuts retaining the speaker in place.

Radio and speakers - removal and installation

Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24).

SZ

10.4 After removing the instrument cluster, simply pull the bulbs out to remove them ‘\

11.4 Support the radio and unplug the electrical connector and antenna cable

Chapter 12

12-7

Chassis electrical system

Zz oes 7

ay,

SPEAKER 11.10. The parking brake assembly will have to be unbolted and moved out of the way for access to the driver side speaker

SCREW

or

en

11.14 Speaker mounting details (1997 and later models)

ANTENNA

SCREWS (3)

12.2

Unscrew the antenna mast with a small wrench

7 Detach the speaker and pull it out for access to the electrical connector. Unplug the connector and remove the speaker. 8 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Driver side ’ Refer to illustration 11.10 9 In the engine compartment, remove the

nuts from the two parking brake assembly studs which project through the firewall. 10 In the passenger compartment, remove the bolt hoiding the parking brake assembly to the instrument panel, then lower the assembly out of the way (see illustration). 11 With the speaker now accessible, remove the retaining nuts. 12 Unplug the connector and remove the speaker. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal. On

Hardtop models, make sure to install the

12.6 Remove the screws and pull the cable out through the holes in the body

pry the upper and lower edges of the speaker bezel off the instrument panel to release the two snap clip retainers that attach the bezel to the instrument panel. Remove the speaker bezel from the instrument panel. 16 Remove the foam rubber speaker baffle from the speaker (see illustration 11.14). 17 Remove the four screws that attach the speaker to the instrument panel. Pull out the speaker, unplug the electrical connector from the speaker and remove the speaker. 18 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Sound bar speakers 19 Remove the four screws that attach the speaker grille and speaker to the sound bar. Lower the speaker and grille and unplug the

electrical

connector

from

the

speaker.

Remove the speaker and grille. 20 Installation is the reverse of removal.

ground wire when installing the parking brake

assembly bolt.

1997 and later models Instrument panel speakers Refer to illustration 11.14 14. Remove the two speaker bezel-toinstrument panel screws (see illustration). 15 Using a wide, flat-bladed tool, carefully

12

Antenna - removal and

installation

Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24).

Antenna mast Refer to illustration 12.2 1. The antenna mast can be unscrewed and replaced with a new one in the event it is damaged, following the procedure below. Follow the procedure beginning with Step 4 to replace the antenna and cable as an assembly. 2 Use asmall wrench to unscrew the mast (see illustration). 3 Install the new antenna mast finger tight and tighten it securely with the wrench.

Antenna and cable Refer to illustration 12.6 4 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. : 5 Remove the radio and disconnect the antenna cable (Section 11). Connect a string or wire to the radio end of the cable. 6 Remove the antenna pad and mast assembly and pull the cable out through the hole in the body (see illustration). Note: On 1997 and later models, the antenna mast must be unscrewed and the cover removed from the base for access to the base screws.

7

Connect the string or wire to the new

cable and pull it into the passenger compartment.

12-8 8 Install the antenna pad and mast assembly. 9 Connect the cable to the radio, then install the radio. 10 Connect the battery negative cable.

13

Headlight switch and dash illumination rheostat — removal

and installation Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24). Refer to illustrations 13.4a and 13.4b

1987 through 1995 models 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. 2 Remove the instrument cluster bezel (Chapter 11). 3 Remove the instrument cluster indicator bezel (Section 18). 4 Remove the switch or rheostat screws, pull the switch or rheostat assembly out, then unplug the electrical connector (see illustrations).

5 Plug in the new switch or rheostat securely, then place it in position and install the screws. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.

i 13.4a After removing the screws, grasp the switch securely and unplug it from the electrical connector 10 Remove the spanner nut that attaches the headlight switch to the instrument panel (see illustration). 11 Separate the headlight switch from the instrument panel and unplug the electrical connector. Remove the switch. 12 installation is the reverse of removal.

14

Headlight dimmer switch (1987 through 1995 models) removal and installation

1997 and later models Refer to illustration 13.10 6 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 7 ~ Pull out the headlight switch control knob to the ON position. 8 Reach up under the instrument panel to the left of the steering column and push the headlight switch retainer button (see illustration 13.10). While holding the button down, pull out the headlight switch control knob and shaft. _9 Remove the steering column cover and knee blocker (See Section 24 in Chapter 11).

HCH

ice AND SHAFT

SPANNER NUT eu 13.10

BRACKET

Refer to illustration 14.7 Warning: Some models covered by this manual-are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24). 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. _ 2 Remove the instrument cluster bezel (see Chapter 11). 3. On air-conditioned models, remove the attaching screws and detach the evaporator housing and bracket from the instrument panel for access.to the switch. 4 Tape the switch actuating rod to the Steering column to prevent disengagement.

13.4b The dash illumination rheostat is removed in the same way as the headlight switch - unplug it from the connector and remove the screws 5 Remove the two bolts, detach the rod, unplug the electrical connector and lower the

switch from the steering column. | 6 Engage the new switch with the rod and place it in position, then install the mounting bolts finger-—tight. 7 Remove the securing tape from the rod, then insert a 3/32-inch drill bit into the adjustment hole (see illustration). Push the switch toward the steering wheel to take up the slack in the actuator control rod, then tighten the bolts securely. 8 Remove the drill bit, plug in the connector and install any components which were removed. 9 Connect the battery cable.

15

Refer to illustrations 15.3, 15.4, 15.5, 15.7 and 15.8

Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable

IGNITION SWITCH

RELEASE BUTTON

WIRE HARNESS TONNECTORS

Turn signal/hazard warning switch (1987 through 1995 models) removal and installation

ADJUSTMENT HOLE

ae SWITCH

Headlight switch mounting details (1997 and later models)

14.7 \

Dimmer switch adjustment details

%

LOCKING TAB

15.3 Turn signal electrical connector

. the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24). 1 ‘The turn signal/hazard switch is located at the top end of the steering column and is operated by the multi-function control stalk. 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable, then remove the steering wheel (see Chapter 10). 3 Unplug the turn signal electrical connector (see iliustration). Wrap tape around the _ connector to prevent snagging when the har‘ness is pulled up out of the column. Remove the plastic harness cover by pulling it up and off the weld nuts, then sliding it off the harness. 4 Depress the lock plate using a special tool, available at most auto parts stores, then use a small screwdriver to pry out the retaining ring (see illustration). 5 Remove the lock plate, canceling cam and upper bearing spring (see illustration). 6 Remove the hazard switch knob. 7 ~ Remove the tufn signal actuator arm screw (see illustration). 8 Remove the turn signal switch attaching screws (see illustration)? 9 Remove the instrument cluster bezel

15.4 The retaining ring can be removed with a screwdriver after depressing the lock plate with a special tool ’

15.5 With the lock plate removed, the canceling cam and spring can be lifted off:

TURN SIGNAL SWITCH .

15.7 Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the multi-function actuator screw

TURN SIGNAL SWITCH ATTACHING SCREW

(see Chapter 11). 10 Remove the steering column attaching nuts and bolts, then lower the coiumn. 11 Lift the switch out and guide the wiring | harness up through the steering column opening. 12 Installation is the reverse of removal. After installation, it may be necessary to adjust the dimmer switch (see Section 14).

16

Windshield wiper/washer switch (1987 through 1995 models) check and replacement

Refer to illustrations 16.4a, 16.46, 16.4c, 16.6, 16.9, 16.10, 16.12 and 16.14 Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable

TURN SIGNAL SWITCH ATTACHING SCREWS

15.8 Turn signal switch attaching screws

12-10

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

be necessary to pull the connector out of the column, only to pull it up far enough for access to the housing screws. 8 Remove the ignition lock cylinder (see Section 21).

the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24). 1 These. models are equipped with a multi-function lever located on the left side of the steering column which controls the wiper/washer, turn signal and dimmer switches. The wipers are two-speed with an optional intermittent feature.

9

Bend the end of a straightened paper

clip into a hook, insert it into the loop of the key warning

buzzer

switch,

then

lift the

switch out (see illustration). .

Check

10. Remove the four screws or bolts and lift the housing and shroud assembly off the column (see illustration). 11 Remove the wiper/washer switch actuating lever by pulling it straight out.

2 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 3. Unplug the electrical connector from the switch. 4 Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test light to check for continuity between the switch terminals at the electrical connector with the switch in the indicated positions (see

12

Remove the switch cover, then remove

the pivot screw and detach the wiper/washer switch (see illustration). 13 Install the new switch and cover. 14 Push on the dimmer switch rod to make sure it’s connected. Place the housing and shroud assembly in position on the steering column with the lock pin forward of the slot in the lock rack, then position the first tooth with - the most forward gear of the lock rack (see illustration).

illustrations). -§ Replace the wiper/washer switch if the continuity is not as specified.

Replacement “6 _Unplug the electrical connector and tape it flat against the harness (see illustration). 7 Remove the turn signal switch as ‘described in Section 15, except that it won’t

15

Install the screws and carefully mate the

_16.4a

Wiper/washer connector terminal details

Delay — dark green (intermittent only) Washer — pink High — violet Ignition — white Low/park — grey Off/park — yellow Qnrmvownos Delay — brown (intermittent only

housing and shroud assembly.

SWITCH POSITION E andF :

All Others

Yes

ee ie Y No

es

2S All Others

Wosh

(6

eee All Others

es

No

g

po

Y.es /Y es

:

No Ne

ee

ZERO OHMS Yes

Yes

|

|

Al Oe Wess

To ee es

es es No

152-480K ohms 16.4c

Intermittent wiper switch check chart - ohmmeter should be as specified in each switch position r

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

12-11

HOUSING AND

ATTACHING SCREWS

SHROUD ASSEMBLY

iy TAPE CONNECTOR FLAT BACK AGAINST WIRE HARNESS PAPER CLIP

16.6 Unplug the connector at the bottom of the steering column and wrap it with tape, as shown

16 Install the key and lock cylinder assembly and make sure the lock pin extends fully when the key is in the lock position (see illus-

tration 16.14). 17

Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

Multi-function switch (1997 and later models) - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 17.8a and 17.8b ; Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity _ of airbag system components (see Section 24). 1 On these models, the headiight dimmer, turn signal and hazard flasher and windshield wiper/washer switches are integrated into one switch assembly on the steering column. This switch is known as a multi-function switch. 2 _ Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal and then wait at least two minutes before proceeding.

oe

mares NY

16.9 With the key in the On position, hook a piece of wire (a straightened paper clip works well) under the spring retainer and remove the key buzzer switch

3 Remove the knee blocker (see Section 24 in Chapter 11). ; 4 Place the tilt column, if equipped, in the fully raised position. x 5 Insert a small screwdriver or pin punch through the access hole in the lower steering column cover and push in the ignition key lock cylinder retaining tumbler (see Section 18). While depressing the retaining tumbler, pull the ignition lock cylinder and key out of the ignition lock housing. 6 Remove the three screws that attach the lower steering column cover to the upper cover. 7 On vehicles with a non-tilt steering column, loosen the two nuts that secure the column upper mounting bracket to the dash panel steering column bracket studs. Lower the column far enough to remove the upper steering column cover. 8 Remove the three screws (two on the top of and one on the side of the switch water shield) that attach the switch water shield and bracket to the steering column (see illustrations).

WIPER SWITCH LEVER WATER SHIELD AND BRACKET

MOUNTING % SCREWS

16.10 The housing and shroud assembly is held in place by four attaching screws or bolts

16.12 Remove the wiper/washer switch cover and pivot screw

) Carefully pull the lower mounting tab on the switch water shield bracket away from the steering column far enough to clear the screw boss below the multi-function switch lever.

10 Remove the water shield and bracket and the multi-function switch from the steer-

MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH LEVER WATER SHIELD

HAZARD WARNING SWITCH\ KNOB

. MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH LEVER)

16.14 Make sure the dimmer switch rod is secure by pushing on it and that the nylon spring retainer is forward of the lock rack

17.8a To detach the switch water shield and bracket from the steering column, remove the two screws (arrows) on the top of the switch shield...

17.8b .. . and the screw (arrow) on the bottom of the bracket (1997 and

later models)

12-12

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system KEY CYLINDER

STEERING WHEEL KEY/LOCK CYLINDER RETAINING SCREW

: SCREWS (3)

RELEASE TANG

PIN PUNCH

18.11b Release tang location on ignition key lock cylinder (1997 and later models)

a

18.5 Remove the screw and pull the lock cylinder out (1990 and earlier models) ing column and unplug the electrical connec- tors. (On vehicles equipped with a tilt steering column, lifting up on the tilt release lever will provide extra clearance for switch removal.) 11 Carefully remove the water shield by pulling it off over the hazard warning switch knob and the multi-function switch lever. This left half of the multi-function switch includes — the headlight dimmer switch and the hazard warning flasher and turn signal switch. 12 To remove the windshield wiper and washer switch (the right half of the multi-function switch), carefully pull the windshield wiper and washer switch up and away from the right side of the steering column and unplug the electrical connector from the switch. 13 Installation is the reverse of removal.

18.11a To release the ignition key lock cylinder, insert a pin punch through the access hole in the lower steering column

O START ON

cover, depress the release tang in the lock cylinder and pull out the cylinder; to remove the lower steering column cover, remove these three screws (1997 and later models)

CONNECTED GROUNDED

.

CONNECTED CONNECTED CONNECTED

OFF-LOCK

18

Ignition lock cylinder - removal and installation

Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24).

1987 through 1995 models Refer to illustration 18.5 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Remove the turn signal/hazard warning switches (see Section 15). 3. Remove the ignition key lamp assembly. 4 Place the lock cylinder in the On position. 5 On 1990 and earlier models, remove the retaining screw and withdraw the cylinder from the steering column (see illustration). On 1991 and later models, insert a thin screwdriver in the slot adjacent to the screw and press against the spring latch to remove the cylinder. 6 Insert the lock cylinder into position and install the screw (1990 and earlier models only). Tighten the screw securely. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

1 997 and later models Refer to illustrations 18.11a and 18.11b 8 Disconnect the negative battery cable

ACC.

A & B-2

CONNECTED

19.4a Terminal details and schematic diagram of the ignition switch and wait at least two minutes before proceeding. 9 If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, put the shift lever in the PARK position. ;

10

Turn the key to the ON position.

11 Insert a small screwdriver or pin punch through the access hole in the lower steering column cover (see illustration) and depress the release tang (see illustration) on the bot-

tom of the key lock cylinder. While pushing up on the release tang, pull out the key lock cylinder. 12 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to push in the key lock cylinder until it snaps into place.

19

Ignition switch - check and replacement

Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24),

19.4b

Ignition switch continuity chart -

continuity should be as specified in each switch position

1987 through 1995 models Refer to illustrations 19.4a and 19.4b 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. ; 2 The ignition switch is located on the steering column and is actuated by a rod attached to the key lock cylinder.

Check 3 Remove through 9).

the

switch

(see

Steps

6

4 Use an ohmmeter or self-powered test light and the accompanying illustration and check chart to check for continuity between the switch terminals (see illustrations). 5 _ If the switch does not have correct con-

tinuity, replace it.

Replacement 6 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.

:

b

hea

ie

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

12-13

>

TAMPER PROOF

IGNITION SWITCH

Ne ANG XQ

Se GNY SSG

ES

=

SOR

Lm HDD) IGNITION

SWITCH

Sy

SCREWDRIVER

ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS

19.14 Remove the ignition switch retaining screw (the tamper-proof Torx type) (1997 and later models)

ROTATE TO ON POSITION

19.16

: X

Before installing the switch, be sure

to rotate the slot in the switch to the ON position (1997 and later models)

19.15 Using a small screwdriver, depress ithe lock tab and remove the ignition switch from the steering column (1997

and later models)

REMOVE CLUSTER SCREWS

20.4 Cluster and switch panel screw locations

20.3 Remove the screws and detach the

.

20.5a On later models, the speedometer is part of the cluster and you'll have to disconnect the speedometer cable by squeezing the release lever as shown here

indicator bezel

_7 Insert the key into the lock cylinder and turn it to the Off—Lock position. 8 On models so equipped, remove the intermittent wiper module. 9 Unplug the electrical connector, remove the bolts, then detach the switch from the actuator rod and lower it from the steering column. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Move the switch slider to the Accessory position. On standard steering columns, this is all - the way to the left (steering wheel side), on tilt columns, all the way to the right (away from the steering wheel). As the switch is engaged to the actuator rod, push the switch down the steering column to remove any slack from the rod before fully tightening the bolts.

per-proof Torx type.) 15 Using a small screwdriver, depress the locking tab (see illustration) and remove the ignition switch from the steering column. 16 Installation is the reverse of removal. Before installing the switch, rotate the slot in the switch to the ON position (see illustration).

~ 20

Instrument cluster - removal and

installation — Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (See Section 24).

1987 through 1995 models

1997 and later modeis

Refer to illustrations 20.3, 20.4, 20.5a

Refer to illustrations 19.14, 19.15 and 19.16 11. Remove the ignition key lock cylinder (see Section 18). 12 Remove the lower steering column

and 20.5b 1 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Remove the instrument cluster bezel (see Chapter 11). 3 On1991 and earlier models, remove the retaining screws and detach the indicator bezel (see illustration). 4 Remove the cluster and switch panel screws and pull the cluster out far enough for

cover screws (see illustration 18.11a) and remove the cover. 13 Unplug the two electrical connectors from the ignition switch. 14. Remove the ignition switch retaining screw (see illustration). (The screw is a tarn-

20.5b

Pull the cluster out and detach the electrical connector

access to the electrical and speedometer connectors (see illustration). On some models it may be necessary to. disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission or cruise control adapter to provide sufficient slack so the cluster can be pulled out (see Section 19). 5 Unplug the connectors, detach the speedometer cable (later models) and remove the cluster (see illustrations). 6 Installation is the reverse of removal.

reat

12 : |

12-14

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system INSTRUMENT

SELF-DOCKING WIRE HARNESS CONNECTORS

CLUSTER

CLUSTER

UPPER MOUNTING ' SCREWS

LOWER MOUNTING SCREWS

CLUSTER BEZEL

20.11a To detach the instrument cluster

20.11b ...and remove these three screws from the upper edge (1997 and

bezel, remove these two screws from the lower edge of the cluster...

20.12 To detach the instrument cluster from the instrument panel, remove

later models)

the four

retaining screws (1997 and later models)

\

UPPER SERVO ~~" CABLE ASSEMBLY

2 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the transmission/transfer case or cruise control adapter (see illustrations). 3 Detach the cable from the routing clips in the engine compartment and pull the cable up to provide enough slack to allow disconnection from the speedometer. 4 Remove the instrument cluster screws,

TACH GENERATOR ASSEMBLY net oeARBy M

pull the cluster

SPEEDOMETER CABLE

21.2 Unscrew the collar and pull the speedometer cable out of the cruise control adapter (shown) or

transmission housing

22.2 After marking the position, grasp the wiper arm, insert a punch or ice pick in the release clip hole and pull the arm assembly off the spindle

out and

disconnect

the

speedometer cable from the back of the cluster (see illustration 18.5a). 5 Remove the cable from the vehicle. 6 Prior to installation, lubricate the speedometer end of the cable with spray—on speedometer cable lubricant (available at auto parts stores). 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

22 Windshield wiper motor removal and installation

1997 and later models - Refer to illustrations 20.11a, 20.11b and

20.12 7 Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait at least two minutes before proceeding. 8 Remove the headlight switch knob and shaft (see Section 13). 9 Remove the two screws that retain the cover for the steering column opening (see illustration 24.8 in Chapter 11). Pull the steering column opening cover straight back as far back as it will go. Work the lower edge of the cover rearward to disengage the hooks on the lower edge of the cover from the pivots on the lower edge of the instrument

instrument panel (see illustrations). Pull off the cluster bezel and remove it from the instrument panel. 12 Remove the four screws that attach the instrument cluster to the instrument panel

22.9 and 22.11

(see illustration). 13

Pull the instrument cluster back and dis-

connect it from the two “self-docking” electrical connectors. 14

Installation

is the reverse

of removal. .

(The two self-docking connectors are rigidly mounted and are aligned with their corresponding connector halves in the back of the cluster. When the cluster is placed in position and pushed back into place, it will automatically plug into the connectors.)

panel. Remove the cover.

10 The instrument panel top cover uses five equally-spaced snap clip retainers to attach the top cover to the instrument panel. Using a suitable tool with a wide, flat blade, carefully pry up the instrument panel top cover from the instrument panel (see illustration 24.28 in Chapter 11). 11 Remove the two screws that attach the lower edge of the cluster to the instrument panel and remove the three screws that attach the upper edge of the cluster to the

1987 through 1995 models Refer to illustrations 22.2, 22.3, 22.4, 22.5,

21

Speedometer cable (1987 through 1995 models) removal and installation

Refer to illustration 21.2 Warning: Some models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system when working in the vicinity of airbag system components (see Section 24).

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 4

Removal wal Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 2 Use a pencil or marking pen to mark the arm-to-spindle relationship, remove the windshield wiper arms (see illustration). 3 Remove the hold—down bolts at the corners and fold the windshield forward, out of the way. Remove the wiper motor screws or bolts (see illustration). 4 Use a screwdriver to disconnect the wiper linkage drive arm (see illustration). 5 Grasp the motor securely, lift it out

through the access hole and detach the drive arm by prying it off the pivot (DO NOT remove the pivot nut) (see illustration). 6 On models with intermittent wipers, remove the two screws and detach the wiper module from the instrument panel. 7 Reach up under the instrument panel in

the passengers compartment and unplug the motor electrical connector, then remove the wiper motor from the vehicle.

- Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system. PRY OFF

|

o o

Py

DONOT REMOVE THIS” NUT

~

“y

22.4 Pry the wiper linkage drive arm off with a screwdriver

22.5 Pry the drive arm off the pivot with a

22.9 Use large pliers to press the drive arm onto the shaft

22.11 Press the drive arm evenly onto the wiper motor shaft using two pairs of pliers

the seal far enough to access the screws that secure the outer ends of the cowl plenum cover/grille panel to the cowl plenum panel. 16 Remove the screw that attaches each outer end of the cow! plenum cover/grille panel to the cowl plenum panel. 17% Remove the cowl plenum cover/grille

panel. Be careful not to damage the paint

screwdriver - DO NOT remove the nut

Installation 8 Insert the wiring harness through the access hole and piug it in. Install the intermit-

tent wiper module. 9 Turn the wiper motor on to cycle it to the Park position, shut if off, then connect the wiper linkage drive arm to the motor (see illustration). 10 Lower the motor and arm assembly into position and install the screws/bolts. Tighten the screws/bolts securely. He 11. Connect the drive arm to the pivot sha (see illustration).

12 The remainder reverse of removal.

of installation

is the

1997 and later models Front motor Refer to illustrations 22.13 and 22.19 138 Remove the screw that attaches the center of the cowl plenum cover/grille panel to the cowl plenum (see illustration). 14 Open and support the hood. 15 Peel the ends of the cowl-to-hood seal away from the metal flange where the dash panel and cowl plenum panel meet. Pull back

around the pivot openings of the panel. 18 Reach into the cowl plenum and unplug the wiper motor electrical connector. 19 Remove the three wiper module mounting bracket screws (see illustration). 20 Remove the wiper module from the cowl

SCREW COWL PLENUM COVER/GRILLE

SCREW

LINKAGE

U-NUT

COWL TO HOOD SEAL

22.13 Cowl plenum cover/grille panel mounting details (1997 and later.models)

22.19

Front windshield wiper motor mounting details (1997 and later models)

Chapter 12

12-16

Chassis electrical system

SPEED CONTROL SWITCH/TRIM BAR

22.25

Rear windshield wiper motor mounting details (1997 and later models)

q SCREW

STEERING WHEEL

24.14A

;

24.4 Airbag module and steering wheel details - 1995 models _

DRIVER'S AIRBAG MODULE

CLOCKSPRING

AIRBAG WIRE

SPEED CONTROL SWITCH CONNECTOR

HORN SWITCH WIRE

Airbag module, steering wheel and clockspring details 1997 and later models

24.14b When properly centered, the airbag clockspring will be positioned like this, with the arrow on the rotor pointing straight up, the flats in the center of the rotor will be horizontal, and the

wiring harness will be positioned at the bottom

plenum as a unit. \ 21 Release the retainer that secures the wiper motor electrica! harness to the wiper module bracket. 22 Turn over the wiper module and remove the nut that attaches the wiper linkage crank arm to the wiper motor output shaft. 23 Remove the three screws that attach the wiper motor to the wiper module mounting bracket. 24 Installation is the reverse of removal.

Rear motor Refer to illustration 22.25 25 From the outside of the liftgate glass, remove the rear wiper motor output shaft nut

and bezel (see illustration). *26 From the outside of the liftgate glass, remove the rear wiper motor output shaft rubber gasket. 27 From the inside of the liftgate glass, remove the three screws that attach the rear wiper motor cover to the motor.

~

28 Disconnect the electrical connector from the motor. 29 Loosen - but don’t remove - the right liftgate glass hinge nut. 30 From the inside of the liftgate glass, carefully separate the wiper motor from the liftgate glass until the output shaft clears the hole in the glass. 31 Move the motor to the right until the slotted hole in the motor mounting bracket clears the grommet under the right liftgate glass hinge nut. 32 Remove the rear wiper motor. 33 Installation is the reverse of removal.

23

Cruise control system description and check

The cruise control system maintains vehicle speed with a- vacuum actuated servo motor located in the engine compartment, which is connected to the throttle linkage bya

cabie. The system consists of the servo motor,

clutch switch, brake switch, control switches, a relay and associated vacuum hoses. Because of the complexity of the cruise control system and the special tools and techniques required for diagnosis, repair

should be left to a dealer service department or a repair shop. However, it is possible for the home mechanic to make simple checks of the wiring and vacuum connections for minor faults which can be easily repaired. These include: a) Inspect the cruise control actuating: switches for broken wires and loose connections. b). Check the cruise control fuse. c) The cruise control system is operated by

vacuum so it’s critical that all vacuum switches, hoses and connections are secure. Check the hoses in the engine compartment for tight .connections,, cracks and obvious vacuum leaks.

_

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system : 24

Airbag system (1995 and later models) - general information

“a 1995 and later models are equipped with

a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), more commonly known as airbags. This system is designed to protect the driver and, on 1997 and later models, the front seat passenger, _ from serious injury in the event of a head-on or frontal collision. It consists of an airbag module in the center of the steering wheel,

‘24.21 To detach the passenger side airbag module from the instrument panel, remove these three nuts

of the instrument panel. 1995 models have a self-contained system, in which the impact sensor is housed within the airbag module on the steering wheel. The system on 1997 and later models utilizes a control module (which contains an impact sensor) mounted on the forward part of the transmission tunnel, under the heater/air conditioner floor duct, a “clockspring” under the steering wheel which can transmit current to the driver’s side airbag module regardless of steering wheel position, and a passenger’s side airbag module mounted above he glove box. 2 Whenever working in the vicinity of any airbag system components it is important to disable the system to prevent accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could

cause personal injury.

1995 models Disarming the system Refer to illustration 24.4

‘3 4 the and

Roll down the driver’s side window. Pry off the small cover from the top of steering wheel hub. Get out of the vehicle close the door, then using an 8 mm

socket, reach in and unscrew the arming screw until it stops (it should protrude approximately one inch from the surface of the steering wheel trim) (see illustration).

The airbag is now disarmed.

Arming the system 5 Reach through the driver’s window and turn the arming screw until it is seated (tighten it to approximately 15 in-lps). Install the arming screw cover on the steering wheel hub.

Airbag module removal and installation 6 Disarm the airbag system as described earlier in this Section. 7 Removal of the driver’s side airbag is covered in Chapter 10, Section 9.

1997 and later models Disarming the system

z

STANDARD TRACER COLOR

and, on 1997.and later models, the right side _

25.4 Wiring diagram color codes

Arming the system 10

Make sure the gen

switch to the Off

position.

11. Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. 12 Turn the ignition switch to the On position. Confirm that the airbag warning light glows for 6 to 8 seconds, then goes out, indicating the system is functioning properly.

Centering the clockspring 13 If the airbag system clockspring becomes uncentered (during steering wheel removal, for example), it must be centered to prevent it from breaking. 14 With the steering wheel removed, turn the

clockspring rotor clockwise until it stops (don’t apply too much force) (see illustrations). 15 Turn the clockspring rotor counterclock‘wise about 2-1/2 turns; the flats on the rotor

should be horizontal and the arrow on the

rotor should be pointing straight up. Also, the wiring harness should be positioned at the bottom; if it isn’t, turn the clockspring an additional 1/2 turn. 16 Install the steering wheel following the procedure described in Chapter 10.

Airbag module removal and installation Driver’s side

8 Turn the ignition switch to the Off position. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Make sure the battery: cable cannot accidentally come into contact with the battery terminal. 9 Wait at least two minutes for the backup power supply to be depleted before

Refer to illustration 24.21

beginning work.

19

17

Disarm the airbag system as described

earlier in this Section. 18 Removal of the driver’s side airbag is covered in Chapter 10, Section 9.

Passenger side Disarm the airbag system as described

earlier in this Section. 20 Remove the instrument panel (see Chapter 11). 21 Prop the instrument panel up onits side. — f Remove the three nuts that attach the airbag ~ module to the instrument panel (See illustration).

22 Remove the airbag module. 23 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to tighten the airbag module retaining screws to the torque listed in this Chapter’s

Specifications.

25

k

Wiring diagrams - general information

Refer to illustration 25.4 Since it isn’t possible to include all wiring diagrams for every year covered by this manual, the following diagrams are those that are typical and most commonly needed. Prior to troubleshooting any circuits, check the fuse and circuit breakers (if equipped) to make sure they’re in good condition. Make sure the battery is properly charged and check the cable connections (see Chapter 1). When checking a circuit, make sure that all connectors are clean, with no broken or loose terminals. When unplugging a connec- . tor, do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the

connector housings themselves. Refer to the accompanying chart for the wire color codes applicable to your vehicle (see illustration).

12-18

Chapter 12

Ut aan : fi

i : POSITIVE

CONNECTOR

NEGATIVE

MALE CONNECTOR

FEMALE CONNECTOR

GROUND FUSE

WE/TA91) (1$'2) ora

Gu/uas!

|

Peas. ,

ces

fava, nd

NUnL

ENNOTS.

49/1481 81 —)

y

9)

2

LNOYS

OL

es

66

3011dS

au/ugel

a

Ni

48

4481 02

Bae

ce y

c

“Tyast eee

TWNOTS GYVZVH d81_ 02

CaM4

18

+

eh

® ONINUVM Ae ONINSSIS (NWN109

»a/AD81

|

uO

5 O YOLVDIONI (oO

tZ

itaust

02 ——_———_

v#

asn4 AGINHAL

‘(dw

TWHYON

1430 Nant

9} ava AGO8 JA08V) 7”

dV) NUNL/dOLS

gl

SY

~O AGH! 01d

1A8I

+ fae

HOLIMS auvZVH

YV3¥ LHOTY OL

ONINYVd (370NVH SS3NUVH YOLISNNOD

a OL OUVZVH/NUNL HOLIMS

au/daet 62

aiet

ya/Md8t

(dV rv SI ) Bend dOLS/ZWH

3014S

iiss

+ fHNWN109

§——

Ce seecoerses

9h Wael pee

ATaH3SSV

sett i

YOLVIIONT

Opes

OL NOTLINST HOLIMS

881

Y“ / HOLIMS rea ei HLIM WG3d /” (a3ssaad3ad ks(Waad 03S01))3A0aV) diV7 3Va8 | dOLS ties

(N93) LINN TOHLNOO OINOH19313

OL

yest 66 —J gt

eee

62

OL el:

143101dWV1

1/8181

7 Vg Bae

te

5$—— ne

a1el

fj )}——.ie

EX6> 30INd$ a

|

g18! ay a

02

Stas

a

WaMNdsl

16

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

OL

7 IN ahs

eas

bI—S

ne inet ¥8

yO

61 ND8t

NOI Sd 3sn4 St) (dW 6#

bl 1M8I 19

W

4a/1M81

Abt

€

eee

fae

66 ———————_5

U3d1M/M

did U3HSVA 14 vb if, | (ONISNOH

(sjepow

WS/LMBL GUINLG! A198) Jadimjiaysem weyshs Bum

LP

yBnoayy G66}

pjeiyspulm

2864)

4981

SuadIM Nxoa

SP 9¢

Puepueys

dn

HOLTMS SUadIM

13NVd Y30NN) ONIYSSLS

301148 68> oe ya/97el £2 01 cifa)EKe> Syas1 —S 66 jeoidAL

:

YadIM

4

1537 OO aaa ¥3M07) Y3NY aNaOS: weibelp

YOLON Y3401)1437 40_¥3NYOD O131HSONTM (ONISNOH

HOLIMS

8

YBHSVM/U3d1

66 1881 i 01

(NWN109

LX3N

NOISSIWA

IaNvd

ONIN HOLWOIGNI

HOLIMS

HOLIMS

LNSWNYLSNI Ol

JONVNALNIVW ¥OLVOIGNI 1 dWV 301S LHOIY) JO GNVH ONIYSALS (NWN109

ce

NOILINSI OL

S3A0W TY OS Y3adIM OL 07

Chapter 12

(N93) LINN TOYLNOD OINOUL93743

ciitetis

11 Vbl

NOILINSI €2

OL

SIOYULNOO

HOLIMS Y3HS¥M

18/9181

y3yv3ua LINdY19

de 3 se (dWV €°S)

HOLIMS LAbI

ep

3NIDNS

12-28 Chassis electrical system

1R/1A81

30171dS

BOUB JepuI BuLI Wes (sjo 2g6L) yHno JeDId UOIS GEG

OL

1437 4307)

(ONISNOH

ve waNuO

¥88I YOLOW Y3adI4

nie

66 a

Oey

301148

G)

xa NNO

SuadIM

1a

97181 Y3NYO) 40

waVd

dn

GU/NL8L

ME/LM8t

VA188l

SP

9F

Lb

HOLIMS

SU3dIM

8/9181

£2

301d

KG LX3N T3NVd

{NWA109 ONIYSIIS OL.

1881

HOLIMS HSVA 440

:

3k

ly

9b

xa LMgt

3 P) 9 q TOYLNOD OYNLNOD AUZLLVG = GNNOYS 033dS M01 Q34dS H9IH 31V1S Q110S LNdNI WNOIS LNdNI IAGNI IMdNI 3WIL 3g0W Sales aie 300W ale

01e@ 1H®

YSHSVM/Y3dIM

4

66

INSWAYLSNI

HOLIMS

NO

difid eae

430NN)

LAST

31NG0W uadIM INFLLTWYSINI

Y3MOd HILIAS eras eae

8 TOULNOD dWid Y3HSVA

vy

te

if

(sjepow se6} YBnouy 2961) Wes6eip Buiim Wie}sAs sedImM/JeYSeM Pje!yYSPUIM JUS}IWA9zUI jesidAL

§3H01) 1437

(ONISNOH QT31HSGNIM

bb

LAvI

OL

68> dnd LM/LA8T

LL# (dav €°S) yanvage LINdUI9 Yad A/M

el

NOILINS! HOLIMS

€4

Ke>

12-29 Chassis electrical system Chapter 12

u3HSVM

Sv

ay NBL

Jd LNdNI 49393S WaVd

indino 19373 Wad

os)

12-30

:

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

|

3 IGNITION SWITCH [Po

sont

oOSeeees ; R10 18VT/OR

R10 18RD/WT!

|

RI 14GNIWT |

eesees CSE Ree

\\

\

I

tare}

ON

|t

99 18BK

a ORD csae

4

REAR WIPER FUSE (20 AMP)

go sek! | (eee

1 R3 14BRIWT

|

i

i

i

# | 4

R10 18VT/OR

\

] 2 (8) Ald

WASHER PUMP

awe Rt

REAR WIPER SWITCH

14GN/WT

om au/4aet

OUVZVH/NUNL HOLIMS: AT@WaSSV

X8/A981

u

———J 8 1 SL 66

Wart

rt

JOS

01 $—ounees >

Chapter 12

A ay fats S

A981

2

12-34 Chassis electrical system

daV df-NIVE

i

=

\

2

N9/esT

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system BATT Al

gg |

may

lees,

2

_—p =!iSTART ®, Jee : 0 OFF

1

| |“2 @

’

ee

10

(8W-10-8)

3

12-35

DISTRIBUTION

|CENTER I.

|

3 Lock

i

:

ACO

2

|

aor

Se

:

Ad 14

20

gli phe Same be, Sena

uh

ee

— — — — a Fuse IBLocK

mend al “nor posrry usep

| |

POSITION

ow_1

aay 2

CLUTCH PEDAL

.

SWITCH

IGNITION

wate

Dorey: cia ee AS RURremEREREPE

3 .eC154 i)7

3 yeC154 7; MANUAL

20 TRANSMISSION

T41

20

BK JUMPER

BRILB

1% c154 a 20

— = DARK) PIN INEUTRAL : | POSITION Lae Be_ISWITCH

{

POSITION

@ S132 ,

a

Typical starting system circuit (1997 and later models)

SWITCH

|

12-36

Chapter 12

. 1 aide

et

ee

Chassis electrical system

FUSIBLE LINK

eee ee !

Att

jDISTRIBUTION CENTER

Be

© S136

U

r |

1

ee

\

7 ENGINE STARTER MOTOR !

Ait 6

AUTOMATIC

SHUT DOWN RELAY

(IN PDC)

Bi |

2Gi06

@Gi07

GENERATOR

@ S131

e $101

(W-11-7)

F12

18 RD/LG A2 les

*

1

FUSED

ten.

| (ST-RUN) :

(W-10-12)

K51

A142

18 DB/YL

14 DGIPK

|

C3 lp

C12 Le

AUTOMATIC

AUTOMATIC

GENERATOR

DOWN RELAY CONTROL

DOWN RELAY OUTPUT

SOURCE

SHUT

SHUT

c25

ACI

FIELD

Bio

A C3

GENERATOR |POWERTRAIN

FIELD

|CONTROL

DRIVER —jMODULE | l

Typical charging system circuit (1997 and later models)

& G104

0029&

1Z 9

4OOd uvrv)

aviv

!_uanuawantia 4OOd ,

|}3SNaS scuge F

|

929

£029 Y ea

9 — — INSWNYLSNIL = L LNSWAYLSNI

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-37

LN3WABLSNI 2 s

vesuiva] [ etme)

USAIN |HOUIMS | dV Tav3H |83H |

A5/OY

moh

SO1S

‘e

a

IZ

1'ON

asad:

&

—-

Ae

HOLIMS

a

ae

/\

woa

fr

asn4

by i

T

4O

=

ag

si

yO

i

Ss

|G

HOLIMS [|

Yad |

SdWv1

TaNVd

dV]

SU TNudL

|

qynais 1

if

HO

x

yoo78

=

ene

|

|

ss bs SSNS

;

|

2029

ial

|

02

j

I

gh

y0Z9

zZ'ON

ya

9

|

woa

a61

|

4Y

AW13u see

dWV1

904

NI

8h

a

.

:

woe

eb

$61

Sree

I

i|

:

y9078

i

unawnuisnt

uaiSNIO,

id

dV

AW134

"3sn4

oor 2

|

vi

| oe

|

ya

WZ

J

or

0

WZ

vA

|

YOLVOIONI | Y3AING

wae

2

HOH_

yeoidAyyuo

|

(Sjopow y) 0 (g

|

ised

J

BuNYyby WNoI9 2664)pue 1972;

on:

(¢ 30 €) (Sjapow seze] pue 7664) WNW BunYyby wos jeaidAy

:

i

9b AD/OY

v

|

_y

i]

¥e5 OL AS/GY

rd

u31N30!

NOLLNGIBLSIC

WaMOdL

Chapter 12

wo

|sa’ £029

QL

ved

1 OL 4O/dY

|

:

ia] QL 4o/dY

I

|

|

|

ov|

93 i 2019

+

— — — —

3nd

3}

(Coe |

J

12-38 Chassis electrical system

!

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

se

[ST-RUN nai aa

“aT ss

1

= "1

Pyyese

= = 1 HEADLAMP

Qa. ESWITCH 2

|

rio Y C106

:

)

L20 16 oe

| ns es

j Fusep

16

|

D8 1 C108

je 11-8) oy eee

6

PTICAL

|

if

:

IGNITION SWITCH

:

HORN

i

FEED_

|

(+)

62 hc2

| | POWERTRAIN 12% C103 [ VEHCLE elCONTROL tT

4HEADLAMP

1 oe ta: j DIMMER

paul

® $102

He Se

re

L20 oeaA

|

RD/LG

G7

: oe

a2 40202

Fiz 20

nf

|

| FEED |

J

Fi an ie

Ze

-

| OPTICAL | HORN

| Lo 8 Se

|

SPEED | |senson jSENSOR

ft

“

sonar peice 7 | ENGLE

|FUSE

ss

rics

:

p SPEED |MODULE

G7

et

WT/OR

aN

20

rallies

i

Ge

:

7 VEHICLE

he

_

SPEED ai

OUTPUT

(ST-RUN)

DIMMER SWITCH HIGH BEAM OUTPUT 1 [DIMMER , | SWITCH HIGH

DIMMER SWITCH LOW BEAM OUTPUT 10

: DIMMERR|, HEADLAMP SWITCH |DIMMER LOW

ak ew JOUTPUT_OUTPUT, ee oe ‘Dime

L3

L3

16

Ld VTMT pea x ue 14

RO/OR

14

Bae

a

16

16

L4 16 VTMT

|

;

A oe

|

ie @ S106

| G34 16RD/GY B5 |C203

|

gee

|

c :cH

G34

©

$104

ae

S

|FOG

12

BK

LAMP

] INDICATOR | RELAY

; onveR

Js Se

5

C110

!No.2

S119 _ | [7 7wich— 7I INSTRUMENT | peay , CLUSTER

. BEER

,

AD/GY

VIWT

@S105

_ GROUND 8

eR i 7 C108

ES y C107

c

RD/OR

® 4

HIGH BEAM INDICATOR - _ DRIVER 4x a e

L3 16RDIOR

| INDICATOR

1 ]

*) HEADLAMP

2

|

_/

priveR

|

HEADLAMP

Typical front lighting circuit (1997 and later models) (5 of 5)

DAYTIME | RUNNING LAMP MODULE

2 G100

.

12-40

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

7Y F20

\7

20 VIMT

F3 yC106 OTHERS

i.

ABS

I RIGHT 4ype

1 LEFT

18 BK/YL

TURN SIGNAL

TURN SIGNAL |SWITCH

9%

3

B6 A C203

i]

:

@ $108

L7

18

|

—_

BK/YL

10 x C104

Ro

F20 18

1%

107

18

ee AT io See i eta ayoe

1p 1

BK/YL

MIT ta

«7x184

; TT |PARK/ i yNEUTRAL

SWITCH

Gi

+

1 C322

L7 18 BKYL

BACK-UP LAMP

j POSITION

Lad

sespal'

7

SWITCH

1 —— e e

2% C154

2% 0154

oY c104 a 20 VT/BK

L7

BK/YL

BK/YL

1 yeC122

18 VT/BK

NOT USED ;

L62

0@RD

«BIRD

18

1 5 C125

NOT USED

| 2

&

i

L7

18

U1

18 VT/BK

L63

C110

@ ———————— @ $118 | | (8w-70-2)

AY

ut

1%

:

© $310 G2 % C322

— G3 Y% C322

or

@ l

U1 20 VT/BK

L7 18 BK/YL

L62 18 BRYRD

5 Lo MO ie oe

|

|

| !

STOP

LAMP

BACKUP

LAMP

(yy)

TAIL/ TURN

LAMP

|

LAMP

|

i

siGNAL |!ASSEMBLY

|

STOP

LAMP

BACK-UP

LAMP

|

Typical rear lighting circuit (1997 and later models) (1 of 3)

TAIL/ TURN

LAMP

LAMP

|

SIGNAL |ASSEMBLY

|

:

Yd 02 62

a 8019 |

al ZEA

‘LM qua

+

(€ 30 Z) (s}jepow 4932] pue 2664) WNdI19 Gunyby sees jeoidAL

|Kat 8ete se ea

:a

12-41 Chassis electrical system Chapter 12

Chapter 12

12-42

Sach I,

Chassis electrical system

ey 2s ee a

ee

— —

VTURN |SIGNAL/ |HAZARD |SWITCH

I

y 1 LEFT

l

2 RIGHT

| 3 NORMAL

|

|

| e2 | |

jie | Gee

we

ie

eee

ee

ees

ee

a

ay. L60 18 TN

oom

10Y L61 18 GY

of

L603

18

s«#BI \ sees ’C203

L61

TN

6ACi

GY

I

18

10AC2

— Hoar ~~ (ep INSTRUMENT TURN

TURN

| _SIGNAL INDICATOR

SIGNAL | INDICATOR 1

E2 Ae PSRs as se IN AREE SORES

CLUSTER

OE RD Ee eee te in Re TTS eee a

eSse Ta ROE Te, eS PIE

Re

aad i SSE

L60 18 TN EUROPE

Eay Ci07

TTD

ae

C110

L61 18 GY

We

OTHERS

EUROPE

|

|

OTHERS

|

oo

@ $124

a=

I$142

ees

®@ $121

@®—

@ S141

1

(rere REPEATER 1A

aA sive RIGHT (X) 60 Y MARKER

__A RIGHT

« _»)TAN ay

@

18

’ LAMP

:at L7

@ S125

DA A RIGHT 18

'

i 18

x

BK

x

3

PARK/

TURN

LAMP

Qo)ner REPEATER

3 } LEFT &) — lo 1y MARKER

ax A

18

3Y

LAMP

7

@ —————— © $122 ees ak

Z1

ge x x

PARK/

3Y

LAMP

« »)TURN

—_—_———_o,

|

:

’ $117 71

18 BK

18 BK

® G103

@Gi02

Typical turn signal circuit (1997 and later models) (1 of 2)

oe18 eRe aoe

fA

@ $125

deed

@ S143

Ger x)Bae ay

, $122

Chapter 12

is

|2

ih I

oo

12-43

Chassis electrical system

Bee

|

™ |POWER

™ ~— stop I LAMP | — !switci

| DISTRIBUTION

FUSE

j CENTER

2 20A

ed COMBO FLASHER INPUT

ee.

:

COMBO FLASHER OUTPUT

6

! 18

|COMBINATION FLASHER

WT/TN

o¥ ci0s

GROUND

j SIGNAL/ HAZARD

lswitcH biter

2 RIGHT "3 NORMAL I 4 HAZARD

Bess | LEFT

cS 1!

LEFT REAR

TURN

as oe

RIGHT

|&>) TURN

|LAMP

©

, REAR

|LAMP

SIGNAL *ASSEMBLY

Typical turn signal circuit (1997 and later models) (2 of 2)

|e

SIGNAL "ASSEMBLY

WOES @

069 & |

PjsIUSPUIM JOdIMPUe

JOYSEM ynowio1661)pue 19}; |

ya or

(Sjapow Z) JO (€ = LWad 8h

[edIGAL

rho

IZ

| ya gt

HDIH ¢

YOLOW u3adIM

cod ; eat

(13 IHSGNIM

wa

HOLOW

Ag

1Z

I

LUIS @

did

YSHSVM QT3IHSGNIM

:

eg

fl

i

17

5 10A

i|

j DISTRIBUTION CENTER

FUSE 10A

l

|

MI

,

20

a ie

ca

;

BATT F34

ee

=_Roe

rT |

_

TO

UNDERHOOD

IHEADLAMP .|

LAMP

I + HEAD

>

2PARK

|

ete

We

ee

|

|

TO

TO

SOUND

DOME

BARI

LAMP

or

LAMP

era ae a a ERE

SEE]

A4 % C202

ANTENNA

nl ap 20 OR 87 y C203

M1 20 PKWT

; B6 A C203

© S206

|

@ $204

~~

6

E2 20 OR

Mt 20 PKWT

FUSED PANEL LAMP DIMMER SWITCH SIGNAL

FUSED

7 18 BKIYL

x12 20 PK

Se

FUSED

en. { | (RUN-ACC) I

PARK

LAMP SWITCH OUTPUT

a

ee

i Vea

oS

oe

;

a

ae

z

5)

RADIO BKYL

ee

SOFT.

HARD

ee

Bis)

CPt

Typical audio system circuit (1 997 and later models) (1 of 2)

Beet

eS

ANTENNA

ES

| RADIO

i

:

?

12-52

:

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

LEFT FRONT SPEAKER

LEFT REAR SPEAKER

RIGHT REAR SPEAKER

1

X58 20 DB/PK

oo

X52 20 «DBT

| X58 18 DBPK

Pe

X52 18 DBT

ay

X58 18

DBPK

X52 18

DBT

a ~ o13 y ©204

BAN

LEFT | FRONT | SPEAKER (-)

ee

DAAC

ACY

SAC

LEFT FRONT SPEAKER

RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER

RIGHT FRONT SPEAKER

(+)

(-)

(+)

ee

ee

eA

ee

LEFT REAR SPEAKER

LEFT REAR SPEAKER

(-)

(+)

X58 18 DBPK

X52 18 DBT

TAC)

3

(-)

Seen ee ee ee ee

Typical audio system circuit (1997 and later models) (2 of 2)

ea

C2

“RIGHT RIGHT REAR REAR SPEAKER SPEAKER (+)

PTRADIO

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

12-53

ST-RUN A21

ree I Fuse

1FUSE

Toh

| BLOCK

| 2

|

|

I

10A

.

L he

aes

ee

1 POWER | DISTRIBUTION

FUSE

ie

6

|

30A

I sy

(@W-10-12)

:

I

ay 20 RDILG F10 y C106 ’

@ $102

F12 20 RD/LG

F12 20 -ROILG 83

9%

C103

Bi

\

AUTOMATIC SHUT

Eo

DOWN

3% C103

RELAY

BS

B2 i

F12 20 RDILG

(IN PDC)

A142 14 DG/PK

Pe

|

14

@ $131

@ S101

| (ew-11-7) Fi2 18 RDILG ~

De “FUSED IGN.

(ST-RUN) 2 kN

| (eW-10-12) A142 y 14 ~ DGIPK

K51 18 DB/YL

aes AUTOMATIC CE /

ROMT

eee ci AUTOMATIC

SHUT

yoFUSEDdoe—_;_POWERTRAIN

SHUT

DOWN

RELAY CONTROL Rian pin Oe Sek Lao CO

A31 Y C2

B(+)

DOWN

RELAY OUTPUT ae ee ae

SN

A32 afC2

212

Z12

14

14

Ay e

ek

te

|$130

Z12 10 BK/TN | & G105

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (1 of 14)

CONTROL

|MODULE

D a

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

_

12-54

a

ance

|

|BLOCK

| Az

I

|

FUSE {1

|

ee

aes

FUSE 16

[

20A

10A (gW-11-7) L a es ee 31 Y |

en

7DISTRIBUTION

:| )

|

Alt

|

oe

F12

4

q |

20

RD/LG rio Y C106

: $102

| A6t 18 DG/BK

Fi2 20 RD/LG AG

A10 J

FUEL PUMP

RELAY

ace

:

q q

(IN PDC) “AT Y

AB

At4t 18 DGWT 6 y. Fa Cee

r

aS

"226 20 DBILG 3A

— 7 AIC

SER ivC103

|

A141 18 DGWT tk

:

MODULE

| CLUTCH “Bio

YY

C13 18 DB/OR

6

4Y K167 20 BRL

(IN PDC)

K31 18 BR

@ $133

71

|

18

K226 18 DB/LG

K167 18 BRL

EVEL SIGNAL

GROUND

BK

Lee [POWERTRAIN Aer _m _odo r____ owheron SENSOR FUEL FUEL AC

|

COMPRESSOR | _ RELAY CONTROL | AE

FUEL

PUMP

| COMPRESSOR

PUMP CONTROL

SSeS as en ag AR RO nig hg eo Whitey ee Ferpepe

CONTROL aces |

OSs tN J

e

oe

~~ 2, 14 Fi & G105

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (2 of 14)

ge

: :

:

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

Reet .

FUSE

:

Tea aa Abana

cr icy

)

|

1 POWER ID ISTRIBUTION

“| AUTOMATIC

a8

|SHUT

|CENTER

| RELAY

I

DOWN —

ae

ey

B2

Bn TES fie (hal GE WT a2 A142 14 DGIPK es

12-55

|

a

eg Sa J

@ S101 e

e@

e@ $129

| 1 x C103

F142

CRANKSHAFT

1 ng

© 8128 |

2.5L Oo

|

F142 18 OR/DG

os

SENSOR

4.0L eee,

SIGNAL

fe

POSITION

SUPPLY

SENSOR

SENSOR

GROUND

l

|

F142 18 OR/DG |

@ $126

CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

BV SUPPLY SENSOR GROUND

K24 18 GY/BK

K167 18 BR/YL

K4d 18 TNL

AI7 Le

AB Les

A4 hes

A18 hee

5V._ SUPPLY

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL

SENSOR GROUND

K7 18 OR GNITION ; COW DRIVER

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (3 of 14) a

CMP SENSOR SIGNAL

CAMSHAFT |POWERTRAIN

SENSOR SIGNAL

|MODULE

|

12-56

Chapter 12

pm

eer

es 1

Chassis electrical system

|POWER

|DISTRIBUTION

7 38— 7aAutomaric

L | cS

Ahgstaed,

|SHUT : DOWN

|

RELAY

|

jot a8 Ess

|

i a

a

ES SSTOS faced

|

2

a

A142 14 DGIPK | e

F- ,

OE e e e

oe F eee

$128

a

F142 18 OR/DG

T P T O

®

)

e

F142 18 OR/DG

F142 18 ORIDG

F142 18 OR/DG

Ce

ae INJECTOR NO. 1

aKit

INJ NO. 4. DRIVER

Bie:AO

INJ. NO. 2 DRIVER

INJECTOR NO. 3

|K13

18 TN

BA 8 Fe

F142 18 OR/DG

rh INJECTOR NO. 2

|K12

18 WT/DB

@ $126

18 YUWT

et

|Ki4

18 LB/BR

BSACB ok ee Gece 8B16 A C3 INJ. NO. 3 DRIVER

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (4 of 14)

\

INJ. NO. 4 DRIVER

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

oe

ee

Pt

o

vi:

—

ve Ee

12-57

1 POWER |DISTRIBUTION

y SHUT

|CENTER

DOWN

|

|RELAY

fee ;

ae

| AUTOMATIC

i |

4

ee

.

|

|

ae pig Sete ass aah a ee,

J

Ai42 | - DGIPK @

|

@

F142 18 aS 4

F142 18 OR/DG |

F142 18 OR/DG

@

F142 18 OR/DG

F142 18 OR/DG

@ $128

F142 18 ORIG

| F142

hi

:

OR/DG 1

TAS: INJECTOR NO. 2

1

-

:

2Y

Ki2 18 ae le sigs

See a eae INU.

|

_NO.1

(4.0L)

TL

gE EIS Ge al aR

2y

Ki3 18 YLT

K14 18 LB/BR

hos

NO. 2

DRIVER Eat Ca 2 AILACHA

(4.0L) INJECTOR NO. 5

2Y

Kit 18 WT/DB

INJECTOR NO. 6

1 INJECTOR NO. 3

3

ra hes

1 INJECTOR NO. 4

1

INJECTOR NO.1

| ORVER

®

@ $126

OR/DG

BP 270

®

DRIVER

K16 18 LG/BK

iti os hoa rece ee

INU.

NO, 3

K15 18 PK/BK

ING.

—

NO. 4

DRIVER

lima LI I LI SCO Aa

ING.

NO. 5

| POWERTRAIN

NO.6

DRIVER rag emp

hoo

IN.

| CONTROL

DRIVER : MODULE en gp

|

|

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (5 of 14) Pe

nn

ee IEE EEE

aENSSa SSSR

12-58

|

@

- Chapter12 Chassis electrical system

;

|

ee

® $129

K7 20 OR

a

x

MANIFOLD

i

ABSOLUTE

i.

PRESSURE

7

SENSOR

:

2

1

ie

K167 30 BRIYL

us

:

fe

‘oe

|

e

K167 20 BRIYL

K167 20 BRIYL

@—=@

@ $127 K167 20 BRIYL

2 ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

es OIL

PRESSURE

1

SENSOR (4.0L)

;

:

INTAKE

2

i

|

@ $133

. K167 20 BRIYL

K167 20 BRL

.

AIR

OIL PRESSURE SENSOR

TEMPERATURE SENSOR

7

(2.51)

7

en

K7 18 OR

pee”

|

Ki 18 DGIRD

G60 18 GYNL

mt 5VAeznmMANIFOLD hoo eho OIL

{ SUPPLY | |—

ABSOLUTE

cum aus @me ame aa

K21 18 BK/RD

eho ENGINE

"GROUND

SENSOR SIGNAL

SIGNAL

K2 18 TNIBK

who SENSOR

PRESSURE

PRESSURE SENSOR.

3

K167 18 BRIYL

ats INTAKE’ee

COOLANT

AIR

TEMPERATURE SENSOR

TEMPERATURE SENSOR

SIGNAL

ooo ——=—

=

Se

ae

ens ee Ge

Ge

ee ee

ee

ee ee

ee

SIGNAL

eee

oe oe

oe

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (6 of 14)

—eeo eee

ee

POWERTRAIN

CONTROL

|MODULE | wal

q

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

L i

NEE

Sg

| DISTRIBUTION

{— — 78 ™ 7) AUTOMATIC

on

“

iSHUT

|CENTER

| RELAY

|

DOWN

tbe B2 %

Ie de

12-59

POWER 1

ee

Oe

ee

|

;

|

A142

:

14,

;

DG/PK | @ S101 ®

iy

:a . :

C103

1

F142

18 ORDG B6e Gio

AOL

aoe.

{

;

@ $128

:

F142

18

OR/DG

a)

@ $126

F142

18: OR/DG

a

: DOWNSTREAM HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR

UPSTREAM HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR

oy.

ne

-. K167 20

A 18

BK

BRL

|

¢

@ $132

|(gW-15-5)

ao

1

:

14 BK | @.G105

(GW-15-5)

6 —— 9

S133 | (8W-70-3)

K167 18 BRL

eeaki

(UPSTREAM | HEATED | OXYGEN SENSOR | SIGNAL

ah

Be

SENSOR GROUND

ee

K141 18 TNWWT

AG

‘DOWNSTREAM “HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL

| POWERTRAIN 4 CONTROL |MODULE I sf

ee

(7 of 14) Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) ee

a

a

age

12-60

:

Chapter 12

@ $129

Chassis electrical system

20 SENSOR GROUND

VSS SIGNAL

5V SUPPLY

THROTTLE §=— ag POSITION SENSOR

2

20 BR/YL

o K167 20 BRL

G7 20 WT/OR

ee

® S127

K167 20 BRIYL

|

© $133

© ——e S135

K167

20 BR/YL

G7

sh

20

8 C103

mes

@ $147

|

|

2A C103

K167 20. BRYL -

ee BATTERY

T G7 20 WT/OR

‘

.

TEMPERATURE

SENSOR

i | K7 18 OR

K22 18 OR/DB

K118 18 PK/YL

ay |¢2 ne Os BATTERY }eS | 5V THROTTLE [ |

SUPPLY

POSITION

SENSOR SIGNAL

TEMPERATURE

SENSOR SIGNAL

“4

| : K167 18 BRYYL

K6 18 VT/OR

ae oa eat~ ‘ SENSOR 5V GROUND

SUPPLY

RUNNING

TLAMP

|MODULE — = ™ (CANADA)

B27 |¢3 VEHICLE» SPEED

SENSOR SIGNAL

‘Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (8 of 14) ee

= — DayTIME

G7 18 WT/OR

|

eS

l

ta

POWERTRAIN | CONTROL

|MODULE |

Chapter 12 ST-RUN A21

~

Chassis electrical system

12-61

;

F12 20 ROLG

;

Fi0 YC106

.

oa

|

ae

@ $102

9% C103

F12 20

‘

@ $131

RD/LG

’ Ge:

ee

=a

|

| 11% C110

Fi2 20 RD/LG

|

Fi2

AI

20

mia

“4 ih

LEAK

|

TORQUE

ae

=

DETECT

o

ie

MODULE

(ST-RUN)

CONVERTER

a

peal

B

2

eet

SOLENOID

pees

PUMP

|

SWITCH |

DUTY

CYCLE EVAP/

\

vee 1Y

SOLENOID

|

K52

hs PK/BK

NO. 1

NO. 2

NO. 3

NO. 4

IAC

\AC

\AC

IAC

MOTOR 4

MOTOR 3

MOTOR MOTOR 2 ets

ane CONTROL

MOTOR.

®

nee

I

6

10 #®C110

1

K39

18 GY/RD

PK/BK

C20 f ‘B‘DUTY CYCLE/ | evap | PURGE SOLENOID. I CONTROL

|

i

oy

SS

a BER

K60

K40

18 YUBK

18 BRIWT

5 y C180

|

K59

18 VTIBK

OR/LG

|

Ki06

Kits

WT/DG

WTIOR

a

ees A G2 At AC2 Att AC2 A20 AC2 C10. ieae laae ees TORQUE NO. 1 NO. 2 NO.3 NO. 4 LEAK LEAK ; CONVERTER IAC IAC 1AC IAC DETECT DETECT CLUTCH MOTOR MOTOR MOTOR MOTOR PUMP SWITCH - SOLENOID DRIVER DRIVER DRIVER DRIVER i COLE wea eee aae a cr oe ONC AT NOES 2 ee te ee |POWERTRAIN

| AES Sg

CN

ca

I

’ sc ll

; i

RS, SC

ea

pa

|CONTROL

|MODULE Pa

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (9 of 14)

rp

ea |

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-62

C21 20DB/OR

:i

ee, oA

‘ |

|

AIC

AIC

SWITCH

PRESSURE SWITCH

CYCLING

HIGH

I=

GENERATOR

awriplhas! |

_ FIELD

ie

COIL

i

FIE

COIL

Nome

I

aie

{

4

2

C90

20 LG

C22 . 20

Ke

ae BN

tener steeret an non enya " "1GENERATOR

I EATER

6A BG

C104

C170

DG/OR

| C90 20 LG

oy C103

® $103

K72 18. DG/OR

PM

C23 het

el eet ORM

oe

ee

en

ae

ee -

PAR NEUTRAL POSITION

eee

ee

a

SWITCH ENE

A6 agC2

Vel

K20 18 DG ee

aco

GENERATOR

GENERATOR

FIELD

FIELD

SOURCE

© POWERTRAIN CONTROL

DRIVER

[MODULE _ _ POWER STEERING

PRESSURE a oe Al2 ye C2

TA 18 BR/LB

K10 18 DB/BR

@ S134 |

2

20 0

AT

“Thane

ce TI

WT/PK

jLIGHTER/

BK

| ~

=s-

sehr ~|SHIFT

Ze Ne

j INTERLOCK

ee 21

20 BK

Zi

|RELAY

20

BK

i

1

;

: I

SWITCH

1Y C154

ACCESSORY

i

wt

20 TRANSMISSION BK JUMPER

rm “~ ™ CIGAR

z

STEERING PRESSURE

z1 MANUAL

20 BRILB

ey

,

’ ———————es @ S137

78 — 1PARK/

ny

|

6300

I _f_1SWITCH

| NEUTRAL | POSITION

Zi

14 .

ag Gis

Typical fuel and ignition system circuit (1997 and later models) (10 of 14)

|

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

:

So

on

i

Be,

|POWER

A14

DISTRIBUTION

ie

!

CENTER

fs

|

r 10A pata yy OVEONG) Oe

|

a

l | I

D12 xt C108

i:

12-63

|

SOFT

TOP

PKWT

|

—: "

yo dope

|

i |

®@ $204 |

DATA

c

3 oe

aie ces

pred

E14

|

BK/LB :

OTHERS

ern.

|

p21

pat

PK

PK |

18

C29 A Ole

mc

RECEIVE

z12 20

4

he

iL

:

E6

20

oe

COT. ESC1

i

I

.

I

—---------!

ae

20 BK/LB

20 BK/TN

Y

Y

ae 20 BK/LB

a20 BK/TN

a

Gi ~ [POWERTRAIN ee

gg Y C107

a

Zi2

ny-—--— =H e103

Dat a

TRANSMIT

~~

af

Z12

a igs ‘ae p20 8

BKTN

z12 20

ABS

j

z12 20

AG AC202.—~ié