Haynes General Motors Buick Regal, Lumina, Olds Cutlass Automotive Workshop Manual 1563925974, 9781563925979

Citation preview

38010

General Motors Buick Regal (1988 thru 2005) Chevrolet Lumina (1990 thru 1994) Olds Cutlass Supreme (1988 thru 1997) Pontiac Grand Prix (1988 thru 1999)

Haynes Repair Manual Based on a complete teardown and rebuild

mpie^ fncludes essential information for today's more campiekvefiicles

BUS

-

«

4U6H

t;OUNTY PUBL C LIBRARV

CmCULATlNG WITH THE

''5^J^"°'''"^'*\f

g|

rs Chevrolet Lumina Olds Cutlass Supreme Pontiac Grand Prix

Automotive Repair

Manual by Robert Maddox and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Buick Regal (1988 thru 2005) Olds Cutlass Supreme (1988 thru 1997) Pontiac Grand Prix (1988 thru 1999) Chevrolet Lumina (1990 thru 1994) Does not include information on supercharged engines

(3K18

-

38010) (1671)

/unoMcnve

iMrrsd

ASSCOATICN

Haynes Publishing Sparkford Nr Yeovil

Group

Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive

Newbury Park 91320 USA

California

Acknowledgements Wiring diagrams provided exclusively for Haynes North America, Inc. by Valley Forge Technical Communications. Technical writers tributed to this project include Larry

©

Haynes North America,

Inc.

who con-

Warren and Brian Styve.

1990,1995,1999,2000,

2002, 2005 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book

in

the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series

Printed

in

the U.S.A.

rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. All in

ISBN-13: 978-1-56392-597-9 ISBN- 10: 1-56392-597-4 Library of

Congress Contol Number 2005938545

made to ensure that the information in this manual can be accepted by the authors or publishers for damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the

While every attempt is

correct,

loss,

no

information given.

05-400

is

liability

8 5 7

1

0-3

Contents About

this

manual

0-5

Introduction to the Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass,

Buick Regal and Pontiac Grand Prix Vehicle identification

numbers

Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working Booster battery (jump) starting Jacking and towing Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Fraction/decimal/millimeter equivalents Safety first! Troubleshooting

Chapter

Chapter 2 Part

0-1 0-1

0-19 0-20 0-21

1-1

A

four-cylinder engine

liter

0-1

0-16

1

Tune-up and routine nnaintenance

2.2

facilities

0-5 0-6 0-7 0-7

2A-1

Chapter 2 Part B 2.5

four-cylinder engine

liter

28-1

Chapter 2 PartC 2.3

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

liter

20-1

Chapter 2 Part D 2.8L, 3.1 Land 3100 V6 engines

2D-1

Chapter 2 Part E 3.4 liter V6 engine

2E-1

Chapter 2 Part F 3800 V6 engine

2F-1

Chapter 2 Part G General engine overhaul procedures

2G-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine

electrical

systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

6-1

Chapter? Part A Manual transaxle

7A-1

Chapter 7 Part B Automatic transaxle

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and driveaxles

8-1

Chapter 9 9-1

Brakes

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter Body

11-1

1

Chapter 12 Chassis

Index

electrical

system and wiring diagrams

12-1

IND-1

L

0-4

Haynes author, photographer and mechanic with 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass

0-5

About Its

this

manual

purpose The purpose

of this

manual

is

to help

you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several vi^ays. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble

We

hope you use the manual

the work yourself. For it

Using the manual The manual

divided into Chapters. divided into numbered Secis

Each Chapter is which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of

tions,

that Section.

Procedures, once described are not normally repeated.

yourself

may be

many

At the beginning of each

to tackle

simpler jobs,

quicker than arrang-

an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop ing

numbered Sec-

you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration

tion captions pinpoint the pertinent Section

and the Step within illustration 3.2

means

that Section. That

is,

the illustration refers to

When

in

the text,

it's

neces-

sary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section

number. Cross references given without use word "Chapter" apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, "see Section 8" means in the same of the

Chapter.

References to the left or right side of the assume you are sitting in the driver's

consecutively numbered paragraphs.

occurs.

doing

must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

vehicle

seat, facing forward.

Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any en-ors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to make the procedure easier to understand.

property complete a procedure or infonnation which

will

CAUTION A Caution

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly

being worked on.

WARNING A Warning

provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

procedure where the Warning

Introduction to the

Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass, Buick Regal and Pontiac Grand Prix These front-wheel drive full-size General Motors vehicles, sometimes referred to as the "W" body style or 10 series, are available in two and four-door sedan body styles. Engines used in these vehicles include the 2.2 liter and 2.5 liter overhead valve (OHV) four-cylinder, the 2.3 liter overhead cam (OHC) Quad-4 cylinder, the 2.8 liter V6. the 3.1 liter and 3100 V6, the 3.4 liter double overtiead cam V6, and the 3800 V6.

Throttle

the 2.5

liter

body

used on

injection (TBI) is

four-cylinder engine.

All

other

engines are equipped with multi-port

fuel

injection.

The front suspension is composed of MacPherson struts, three point control arms and a stabilizer bar. The rear suspension is independent, with trailing arms, strut/shock absorber units, a transversely mounted leaf spring, and in some cases coil springs. The brakes are disc at ai fojr wheels on most models, although some are equipped

wheels or automatic transaxle via driveaxles equipped with Constant Velocity (CV) joints. The power assistec, rack and pinion steering is mounted behind

with

the engine.

standard equipment.

The engine drives the through either a manual

front

drums

at the rear wheels.

Power

assist

is

0-6

Vehicle identification Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized part of vehicle manufacturing.

Since spare parts manuals and lists are compiled on a numerical basis, the individual vehicle numbers are essential to correctly identify the

component

matching the color and type of paint during repair work.

Service parts identification label

Vehicle Identification

Number

(VIN) This very important identification

num-

stamped on a plate attached to the left side of the dashboard and is visible through is

is

located

in

the trunk, usually

on the inside of the trunk lid or on the spare tire cover. It lists the VIN number, wheelbase, paint number, options and other either

information specific to the vehicle it's attached to. Always refer to this label when

The VIN

on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains valuable information such as where and when the vehicle was manufactured, the model year and the body style. also appears

Body identification plate This metal plate is usually located on the top side of the radiator support or on the upper surface of the fan shroud. Like the VIN, it contains important information concerning the production of the vehicle as well as information about how the vehicle came equipped from the factory. It's especially useful for

The Muncie transaxle has an adhesivebacked identification label attached to the rear of the case and an ID number stamped

On

the Getrag five-speed

on a pad at the front case edge, near the bellhousing. If the transaxle label is missing or unreadable, use the Service parts identification label to determine which transaxle was transaxle, the VIN

is

(radiator) side of the

installed at the factory.

ordering parts.

the driver's side of the windshield (see illustration).

Manual transaxle number

into the front.

required.

This label

ber

numbers

Engine identification numbers The engine code number on the 2.2 liter and 2.5 liter four-cylinder engine is stamped on a pad on the radiator side, at the rear of the block. The 2.3 liter OHC (Quad-4) engine VIN number is stamped into the rear of the block, near the starter motor. The Quad-4 engine also has a code label attached to the rear edge of the timing belt housing. On V6 engines, the code number is found on a pad on the rear of the block, just above the starter motor. On the 3800, the number is also stamped on a pad adjacent to the water pump.

The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is on a plate attached to the top of the dashboard on the driver's side of the vehicle - it can be seen from outside the vehicle, looking through the windshield

On

the

Automatic transaxle number 1

The nameplate/ID number on the THM 25C/3T40 transaxle is attached to the upper

surface of the case, near the rear (see tration).

On

transaxle,

illus-

the 440-T4/4T60-E and 4T65-E

the

transaxle

stamped into the unit number label

VIN

number

right rear of the housing; is

attached above

is

a

it.

Vehicle Emissions Control

Information label This label

is

found

in

partment. See Chapter 6 for

on

the engine

more

com-

information

this label.

125 transaxle, me iD numoer is on a plate attached to the upper surface of the transmission case

TMM

0-7

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from sources, which generally fall into one of

many

two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned

parts

parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places

buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, to

bulbs, etc.

They also usually

sell

tools

and

general accessories, have convenient hours,

charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are

unique to the vehicle and not generally

avail-

able elsewhere (such as major engine parts,

transmission parts, trim pieces,

Warranty information:

etc.).

the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of If

- do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers

the source

available and,

if

possible, take the old parts

along for positive identification.

Maintenance tecliniques, tools and worthing facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be refen-ed to throughout this manual. Application of these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undamaged threads and undamaged corners on the

hex head where the wrench habit of replacing

with

new

all

fits.

damaged

Develop the

nuts and bolts

ones. Special locknuts with nylon or can only be used once. If they

fiber inserts

are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones.

Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and

this task,

as well as other repair procedures,

such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, shouid always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (such

prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turin a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant,

as aluminum), thin sheet metal or

it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or

of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and

plastic.

pentine let

removed with a

special nut breaker, available

at tool stores.

a bolt or stud breaks off in an assemcan be drilled and removed with a spe-

If

bly,

it

cial tool

commonly

available for this purpose.

Most automotive machine shops can perform

Fastener sizes For a number

0-8

Maintenance techniques, tools and working 1/2-13x1

dard bolts have slashes radiating out from

diameter, has 13 threads per

the center of the head to denote the grade or

length. For example, a standard bolt

is

1/2 inch

inch and

inch long.

is 1

metric bolt

is

in

threads) and

is

strength of the bolt, which

1.75 x 25

-

mm diameter, has a thread mm (the distance between 25 mm long. The two bolts are

12

pitch of 1.75

An Ml 2

nearly identical,

In

amount of torque that can be applied to The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades through 5 are commonly used on automo-

easily confused, but they

addition to the differences

is

should be noted that many fasteners, Grades through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread It

Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded

diame-

in

especially

heads to indicate bolt strength. In number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the into their

dard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millime-

same

metric code to denote grade.

biles.

thread pitch and length, metric and stan-

ters (the

Metric studs are also marked on their to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric tKjIts), while smaller studs carry a geo-

ends according

an indication of

it.

are not interchangeable.

ter,

greater the strength of the nut.

the

in

and

is

true for nuts).

As a

result,

this case, the higher the

a

standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a metric wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Mso, most stan-

facilities

pitch or

same

compare

it

to a

known

fastener of the

size.

Standard fasteners are often refeaed to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasteners are referred to as

USS

sizes.

^ Grade

1

Grade 5

or 2

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS;

Grade Hex Nut Grade 5

Identification

©

Grade

metric)

Hex Nut

Arabic 9

® ©©

Hex Nut

Standard hex nut strength markings

-

Identification

Property Class 10

6 Dots

bottom

Property Class 9

3 Dots

Hex Nut Grade 8

Grade 8

Class

Class

Class

10.9

9.8

8.8

Arabic 10 Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1

HAYNES

Maintenance techniques, tools and working Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also,

when

replacing

a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

ponent such as a nut or

bolt).

weaken

Overtightening

and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are the fastener can

it

it

noted in the Specifications at the beginning each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not of

Tightening sequences and

procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque value (torque

the twisting force applied to a threaded

is

com-

Metric thread sizes M-6 M-8 M-10 M-12 M-14

0-9

facilities aluminum). As

was

previously mentioned, the

and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher size

grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattem is not given, the following procedures can be used to prevent warping.

Ft-ibs

Nm

6 to 9 14 to 21

9 to 12 19 to 28

28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

5 to 8 12 to 18

7 to 10

Pipe thread sizes 1/8

1/4

3/8 1/2

22 to 33 25 to 35

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

6 to 9 12 to 18 14 to 20

9 to 12 17 to 24 19 to 27

U.S. thread sizes 1/4

20

-

5/16-18 5/16-24 3/8

-

3/8

-

7/16

22 27 40 40 55

16 24 -

14

7/16-20 1/2-13

I

32 38 to 55 to 60 to 80 to to

30 37 55 55 75

to

43

to 51 to

74

to 81 to

108

'—II

1

€) |00-2HAYNES|

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G

Grade marks

L

Ler)gth

T

Thread pitch (number of threads per inch) Nominal diameter (in inches)

D

(in

(bolt strength)

inches)

P

Property class (bolt strength)

L

Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads Diameter

T

D

in millimeters)

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Micrometer set

Initially,

Dial indicator set

the bolts or nuts should be only. Next, they

assembled finger-tight should be tightened one

full

turn each,

in

a

criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each

one has been tightened one full turn, return to first one and tighten them all one-half

Gasket seating surfaces

Hose removal

Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum

is equipped with air do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system

or pressure contained

the

turn,

same

following the

tighten each of

pattern.

them one-quarter

Finally,

turn at a

each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed. time

until

Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which

Make note

characteristics or

marks on parts

of special that

can be

more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good installed

idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of compo-

clean surface

nents before removal.

When removing nent,

keep track

compoSometimes

fasteners from a

of their locations.

threading a bolt back

in

a part, or putting the

washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original

locations, they a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, altemator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint

should be kept

in

or tape to identify the contents.

Whenever

wiring looms, harnesses or

connectors are separated,

is

a

two halves with masking tape so they can be

identify the

of

good idea to numbered pieces

it

nected.

easily recon-

in

an assembly.

Many times these gaskets

are coated

with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing

compound

before assembly. Age, heat and

pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to

separate. Often, the assembly can

be loosened by

Component disassembly

parts are removed.

facilities

striking

it

with a soft-face

hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is that every fastener has

recommended because

it

is

ing)

If

tips

the vehicle

conditioning,

depressurized by a dealer service department or a sen/ice station.

Hose removal precautions closely paralgasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may lel

especially true for radiator hoses.

leak. This

is

Because

of various chemical reactions, the

rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that

secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the

hose and the

outside of the spigot to simplify installation.

As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to

can be

replace them with screw-type clamps when-

ever a hose

is

removed.

usually softer

than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For

most

Warning:

applications, a non-drying (or semi-dry-

gasket sealer should be used.

Tools A

selection of

good

tools

who her own

requirement for anyone tain

and

repair his or

a basic

is

plans to mainvehicle. For the

owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto

maintenance and

repair,

it

is

a wise one.

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this

manual, the following tool

offered:

lists

Maintenance and minor

are

repair,

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Hand-operated vacuum

Dial caliper

Timing

light

Damper/steering wheel puller

Repair/overhaul and Special.

mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which Is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed.

The newcomer

to practical

0-11

facilities

pump

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

General purpose puller

Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will

assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it i? felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of use.

Hydraulic

lifter

removal tool

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit

The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required *or performance of routine maintena.ice, se.'^icing and minor

We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (box-end and openrepair work.

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Valve spring compressor

facilities

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removal/installation tool

Ridge reamer

end combined

in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool

mm

light

and combination tachometer/dwell

meter. Although they are included it

vehicles property.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential

who

Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x

addition to those

screwdriver (No.

Combination

pliers

-

2x6 inch)

6 inch

ity,

various extensions and

We recommend

the 1/2-

is bulky and more expensive, has the capacity of accepting a very wide range of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8-inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set.

the larger drive

Wire brush

and cable cleaning

tool

wrench

Funnel (medium Safety goggles Jackstands (2) If

when

Ring compressor

it

Battery post

Note:

especially

inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although

Fine emery cloth

Drain

kit.

in

the maintenance and Included is a compre-

in

drives are available.

can

Oil filter

anyone

hensive set of sockets which, though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatil-

Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun Oil

for

plans to perform major repairs and are

minor repair tool

inch)

Phillips

list

is

Feeler gauge set

6

the

in

mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most

of special tools,

Socket size)

it

will

be part of

be necessary

to

purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing

3x8 inch)

Phillips

screwdriver (No.

Phillips

screwdriver (stubby

Universal joint

Pliers

-

vise grip

Torque wrench (same size drive as

Pliers

-

lineman's

Pliers

-

needle nose

Pliers

-

snap-ring (intemal

Extension

pan

routine maintenance,

5/16-inch)

set(s)

Reversible ratchet

basic tune-ups are going to

Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch) Standard screwdriver (stubby -

-10

inch

sockets) Ball

peen hammer - 8 ounce

Soft-face

hammer (plastic/rubber)

Cold chisel

-

1/2-inch

-

No. 2)

and external)

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

0-13

facilities

\mir^^ *.

^^^iQiSiib^ < {

^p

r i»

Brake hold-down spring tool

Cylinder hone Wire bnjsh (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type)

Scribe

Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing)

Centerpunch

Note: Another tool which

Pin punches (1116, 1/8,3/16-inch) Steel aile/straightedge - 12 inch

electric

Allen

4

A

wrench set

mm to

10

selection of

drill

with a

and a set of good

their use.

is often useful is an chuck capacity of 3/8-inch

quality

mm)

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Special tools

Piston ring compressor

The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer's instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not

Piston ring installation tool

very economical to purchase

many

of them.

A

consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a tem-

Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint

separator

Universal-type puller

Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set

list primarily contains only those and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced

Stroboscopic timing

by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments. Occasionally, references to the manufacturer's special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an altemative method of doing the

Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation

This

Clutch plate alignment tool

Cylinder compression gauge

porary basis. tools

Torque angle gauge

department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor

drill bits.

(1/8 to 3/8-inch or

files

sometimes there is no alternative to Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service

ever,

job without the special tool

is

offered.

How-

light (inductive

pick-up)

Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump

tools

Floor jack

Tap and

die set

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer ing to get involved

and

in

who

is

just start-

vehicle maintenance

number of options when purchasing tools. If mainte-

repair, there are a

available

nance and minor repair is the extent of the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually

allows the cost of the tools to be spread

over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that

will

actually

Tool stores of

some

will

be used. be the only source

stored properly, they will last a very long Even with the best of care, though,

used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do. tools

wear out

will

if

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the or bolt hole can

internal threads of

become

a nut

stripped, usually

from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-too-common occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they've been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly dam-

aged.

When

this

happens, you've got three

choices: 1)

Drill

and

tap the hole to the next suitable

and

oversize

but regardless of where tools are bought, try cheap ones, especially when buying 2)

and

Drill

tap

the

threaded plug, then to the original

buy

a larger diameter

install

screw or stud.

bolt,

to avoid

screwdrivers and sockets, because they won't last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

hole to accept a and tap the plug

drill

screw

You can also

size.

a plug already threaded to the origi-

nal size.

Then you simply

drill

a hole to

Care and maintenance of tools

the specified size, then run the threaded

Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won't get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges,

plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated,

meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or Impact from other tools.

When

tools are used with care

and

Working

facilities

time.

often

of the special tools that are needed,

facilities

3)

remove the jam nut and bolt. The third method uses a patented thread repair kit

like Heli-Coil

These easy-to-use repair

damaged

kits are

threads

or Slimsert.

designed in

to

straight-

through holes and blind holes. Both are available as kits

ety of sizes

which can handle a

and thread patterns.

vari-

Drill

the

then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole,

hole

is

back

to its original

diameter and

thread pitch.

Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day's work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Not to be overiooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.

A

clean,

flat

workbench

fortable working height

or table of

com-

an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four is

inches.

As mentioned dry storage space

previously, is

some

clean,

also required for tools,

as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary.

Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used

fluids into large containers, seal

with caps

and take them

to

them

an authorized

disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made

excellent

especially for this purpose, are available at

auto parts stores.

1 0-15

1

Booster battery (jump) starting Observe the following precautions when using a booster battery to start a vehicle: a)

Dead

battery

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure the ignition

2

switch

d)

is in the Off position. Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. Your eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. Make sure the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead

e)

one The

b) c)

f)

in

the vehicle.

tv/o vehicles

Make

Booster battery

MUST NOT TOUCH each

sure the transmission

is in

other

Neutral (manual transaxle) or Park

(automatic transaxle). g)

If

the booster battery

vent caps

and lay a

is

not a maintenance-free type, remove the

cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the red jumper cable

to the positive (+) terminals of

each

battery.

Connect one end of the black cable to the negative (-) terminal of The other end of this cable should be connected to a good ground on the engine block (see illustration). Make sure the cable will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other movthe booster battery.

100-3

HAYNbI

ing parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then, with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

Make the booster battery cable connections in th« numerical shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery

order is

NOT attached to the

negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-16

Jacking and towing Jacking

isn't

Warning: The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only

means

of support.

The vehicle should be on

level ground. Place the shift lever in Park, if you have an automatic, or Reverse if you have a manual transaxle. Block the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel being changed. Set the parking

brake.

Remove the spare tire and jack from stowage. Remove the wheel cover and trim ring

so equipped) with the tapered end of

(if

the lug nut wrench by inserting and twisting the handle and then prying against the back of the

On aluminum

wheel cover.

wheels, tap

the back side of the wheel hub cover after

removing the wheel (do not attempt to

pull off

the wheel hub cover by hand). Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts (one-half tum is sufficient).

Place the scissors-type jack under the side of the vehicle and adjust the jack height until

it

fits

between the notches

in

the vertical

rocker panel flange nearest the wheel to be

changed. There is a front and rear jacking point on each side of the vehicle (see illustration).

Tum tire

and

the jack handle clockwise

clears the ground. pull

the wheel

Remove

off.

until

the

the lug nuts

Replace

it

with the

spare. Install

the lug nuts with the beveled in. Tighten them snugly. Don't

edges facing

attempt to tighten them completely until the is lowered or it could slip off the jack. Turn the jack handle counterclockwise to lower the vehicle. Remove the jack and vehicle

a diagonal pattern. ring, if used) snapped into place all the

tighten the lug nuts Install

in

the cover (and trim

and be sure

it's

way around. Stow the

tire,

jack and wrench. Unblock

the wheels.

Towing As a general rule, the vehicle should be towed with the front (drive) wheels off the ground. If they can't be raised, place them on a dolly. The ignition key must be in the ACC position, since the steering lock mechanism

strong enough to hold the front wheels

to the

main

structural

bumpers

memt>ers of the vehi-

straight while towing.

cle,

On 1990 and eariier models, vehicles equipped with an automatic transaxle can be towed from the front only with all four wheels on the ground, provided that speeds don't exceed 30 mph and the distance is not over 50 miles. Before towing, check the transmission fluid level (see Chapter 1). If the level is below the HOT line on the dipstick, add fluid or use a towing dolly. When towing a vehicle equipped with a manual transaxle with all four wheels on the ground, be sure to place the shift lever in neutral and release the parking brake. Equipment specifically designed for towing should be used. It should be attached

Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable state and local laws

not the

or brackets.

must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used at all times. On 1991 and later models, the manufacturer does not recommend towing except with a towing dolly under the front wheels. In an emergency the vehicle can be towed a short distance with a cable or chain attached to

one

of the

towing eyelets located under

the front or rear

bumpers

following the pre-

cautions above. The driver must remain

in

the

and brakes (remember that power steering and power brakes will not work with the engine off). vehicle to operate the steering

0-17

Automotive chemicals and lubricants A number

of automotive chemicals

and

lubricants are available for use during vehicle

maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Cleaners Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a drytype lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. is

Brake system cleaner is used to remove brake dust, grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free

surface

is

desired.

Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive and non-con-osive. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor use

in

oil is

engines.

the lubricant formulated for It

normally contains a wide

variety of additives to prevent corrosion

and

reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in to 50. various weights (viscosity ratings) from The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both

and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. light

temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to

+190-degrees F), and will not wash off or presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme

dilute in the

pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl

and nylon

parts.

Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and

made

cants,

with copper

used

is

for

exhaust manifold

and graphite

lubri-

exhaust system and

bolts.

Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after in

the absence of

ing

compound

and screws

air.

used

is

that

strength locking

Medium

for small nuts, bolts

may be removed later. Highcompound is for large nuts,

and studs which

bolts

installation,

strength lock-

aren't

removed on a

regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be

noted that most

oil

manufacturers caution

against using additives with their

Gas additives perform

oils.

several func-

tions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuel injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Heat-sink grease

is a special electrinon-conductive grease that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

Miscellaneous

Sealants RTV sealant

come

cally

is

one

of the

most widely

used gasket compounds. Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn't shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, seal-

required.

sealing hydraulic

Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and

vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray a paint-on

is

ally

prevent future rusting or freezing.

designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is

Gear oil

fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usu-

ing

them

together.

Thread and pipe sealant

liquid

and pneumatic

is

used

fittings

for

and

and as a wrap-around tape.

universal joints.

Chemicals

High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme

Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling^ cold welding, rust and corrosion in

Brake

fluid

is

specially

formulated

hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat

and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not in

contact with painted surfaces or

An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by plastics.

water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk

lids.

It

is

sometimes used to attach

trim

pieces.

Undercoating

is a petroleum-based, substance that is designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sounddeadening agent by insulating the bottom of

tar-like

the vehicle.

Waxes and polishes

are used to help

protect painted and plated surfaces from the

may wax and

weather. Different types of paint

require

the use of different types of

polish.

Some

a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent polishes

utilize

many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and years

polishes.

0-18

Conversion factors Length (distance) X 25.4 = Millimeters (mm) X 0.305 = Meters (m) X 1.609 = Kilometers {km)

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Volume

quarts (US qt)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal ) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

US

0.0394

X X X X X X X X

0.061 1.76 0.88

3.281 0.621

= = =

Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

= =

Cubic inches (cu in; in') imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (imp qt) Imperial quarts (imp qt)

(capacity)

Cubic inches (cu in; in') Imperial pints (imp pt) Imperial quarts (imp qt) Imperial quarts (imp qt)

US

X X X

gallons (US gai)

X X X X X X X X

= Cubic centimeters (cc; = Liters = Liters 1.201 = US quarts (US qt) 0.946 = Liters 4.546 = Liters 1.201 = US gallons (US gal) 3.785 = Liters

16.387 0.568 1.137

cm')

(1) (1)

(1)

(1)

(i)

0.833 0.264

= = = US quarts (US qt) = Imperial gallons (Imp = Imperial gallons (imp ^ US gallons (US gal)

X X

0.035 2.205

= Ounces = Pounds

X X X

0.225

X

14.223

0.833 1.057 0.22

gal ) gal )

l\/lass (weigiit)

Ounces Pounds

X 28.35 = Grams (g) X 0.454 = Kilograms

(oz) (lb)

(kg)

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force Pounds-force

Newtons

X 0.278 = Newtons (N) X 4.448 = Newtons (N) = Kilograms-force X 0.1

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

(N)

(i^gf;

kg)

3.6

9.81

= Ounces-force = Pounds-force = Newtons (N)

(ozf; oz) (Ibf; lb)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch

X 0.070 =

(psi; Ibf/in'; ib/in')

Pounds-force per square inch

X 0.068 =

Kilograms-force per square centimeter (kgf/cm^; kg/cm^) Atmospheres (atm)

=

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; ibf/in'; lb/in')

X

14.696

=

(psi; lbf/in^ ib/in^)

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; ibf/in^ lb/in')

Pounds-force per square inch

X 0.069 = Bars

X

14.5

=

(psi; Ibf/in^ lb/in')

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in'; lb/in')

Pounds-force per square inch

X

6.895

=

X

Kiiopascals (kPa)

0.145

=

(psi; Ibf/in'; ib/in')

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; ibf/in^• lb/in*)

Kiiopascals (icPa)

X

0.01

=

X

1.152

=

Kilograms-force per square centimeter (kgf/cm'; kg/cm')

X

98.1

=

Kilograms-force centimeter cm; kg cm)

X

0.868

=

Kiiopascals (kPa)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches

(kgf

(ibf in; lb in)

X 0.113 = Newton meters (Nm)

Pounds-force inches

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

X

8.85

=

(ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; lb in)

X 0.083 = Pounds-force

Pounds-force inches

feet (Ibf

lb ft)

ft;

X

=

12

(ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force inches (ibf in; lb in)

Pounds-force feet

(Ibf ft; lb ft)

X 0.138 =

Kilograms-force meters m; kg m)

X

7.233

=

X 1.356 = Newton meters (Nm) X 0.102 = Kilograms-force meters

X X

0.738 9.804

= Pounds-force feet (ibf = Newton meters (Nm)

X

0.2961

X

0.0394

= inches mercury = Inches mercury

X 745.7 = Watts (W)

X

0.0013

= Horsepower

=

X

0.621

=

Miles per hour (miies/hr; mph)

X X

2.825 2.352

= =

Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Pounds-force feet

(ibf ft; lb ft)

(kgf

Pounds-force feet (Ibf Newton meters (Nm)

ft;

lb ft)

(kgf

ft;

lb ft)

m; kg m)

Vacuum inches mercury Inches mercury

(in. (in.

X X

Hg) Hg)

3.377 25.4

= Kiiopascals (kPa) = Millimeters mercury

(mm

Hg)

Power Horsepower

(hp)

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X

1.609

Kilometers per hour (km/hr; kph)

Fuei consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

X 0.354 = Kilometers X 0.425 = Kilometers

per per

liter

(km/i)

liter

(km/i)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit */f is

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to liters/ WO mpg (Imperial) x 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

where

kilometers

(1/1

00km),

=

(°F

-

32) x 0.56

0-19

DECIMALS to MILLIMETERS

FRACTIONS to DECIMALS

to

MILLIMETERS

Decimal

mm

Decimal

mm

Fraction

Decimal

mm

Fraction

Decimal

mm

0.001

0.0254

12.7000

1/64

33/64

0.5156

13.0%9

0.0508

12.9540

1/32

0.7938

17/32

0.003

0.0762

0.520

13.2080

3/64

0.0156 0.0312 0.0469

0.3969

0.002

0.500 0.510

1.1906

35/64

0.5312 0.5469

13.8906

0.004

0.1016

0.530

13.4620

0.005

0.1270

0.540

13.7160

0.006

0.1524

0.550

13.9700

1/16

0.0625

1.5875

9/16

0.5625

14.2875

0.007

0.1778

14.2240

0.008

0.2032

0.560 0.570

0.009

0.2286

0.580

14.7320

5/64

0.0781

1.9844

37/64

0.5781

14.6844

0.590

14.9860

3/32

0.0938

2.3812

19/32

7/64

0.1094

2.7781

39/64

0.030

0.2540 0.5080 0.7620

0.5938 0.6094

15.0812

0.010

0.040

1.0160

0.600

15.2400 15.4940

0.1250

3.1750

5/8

0.6250

15.8750

1.2700

0.610

1/8

0.050

15.7480

16.0020 9/64

0.1406

3.5719

41/64

0.6406

16.2719

5/32

0.1562

3.9688

21/32

16.6688

11/64

0.1719

4.3656

43/64

0.6562 0.6719

3/16

0.1875

4.7625

11/16

0.6875

17.4625

17.8594

0.020

14.4780

1.5240

0.620

0.070

1.7780

0.630

0.080

2.0320

0.640

16.2560

0.090

2.2860

16.5100

0.100

2.5400

0.650 0.660 0.670

0.110

2.7940

17.2720

0.120

3.0480

0.680 0.690

0.130

3.3020

0.140

3.5560

0.060

13.4938

16.7640

15.4781

17.0656

17.0180 17.5260

0.150

3.8100

13/64

0.2031

0.7031

4.0640

0.700

17.7800

7/32

0.2188

5.1594 5.5562

45/64

0.160

23/32

0.7188

18.2562

0.170

0.710

18.0340

15/64

0.2344

5.9531

47/64

0.7344

18.6531

0.180

4.3180 4.5720

0.720

18.2880

0.190

4.8260

0.730

18.5420 1/4

0.2500

6.3500

3/4

0.7500

19.0500

0.200

5.0800

19.0500

0.210

5.3340

0.740 0.750 0.760

0.220

0.770 0.780 0.790

19.5580

17/64

20.0660

19/64

7.1438 7.5406

49/64 25/32 51/64

0.7656 0.7812 0.7969

19.4469

9/32

0.2656 0.2812 0.2969

6.7469

19.8120

0.240

5.5880 5.8420 6.0960

19.8438 20.2406

5/16

0.3125

7.9375

13/16

0.8125

20.6375

21/64

0.3281

8.3344

53/64

0.8281

21.0344

11/32

8.7312

27/32

0.8438

23/64

0.3438 0.3594

9.1281

55/64

0.8594

21.4312 21.8281

3/8

0.3750

9.5250

7/8

0.8750

22.2250

25/64

0.3906 0.4062

9.9219

57/64

0.8906

22.6219

13/32

10.3188

29/32

9062

23.0188

27/64

0.4219

10.7156

59/64

0.9219

23.4156

7/16

0.4375

11.1125

15/16

0.9375

23.8125

0.230 0.250

6.3500

0.260

6.6040

0.270

6.8580

0.280

7.1120

0.290

7.3660

18.7960

19.3040

0.800

20.3200

0.810

20.5740

0.820

21.8280

0.830

21.0820 21.3360 21.5900

0.300

7.6200

0.840

0.310

7.8740

0.850

0.860 0.870

0.320

8.1280

0.330

8.3820

0.340

8.6360

0.880

21.8440 22.0980 22.3520

0.350

8.8900

0.890

22.6060

0.360

9.1440

0.370

9.3980

0.380

9.6520

0.390

9.9060

0.400

10.1600

0.910

0.410

10.4140

0.420

10.6680

0.920 0.930

0.430

10.9220

0.940

0.440

11.1760

0.950

23.3680 23.6220 23.8760 24.1300

0.450

11.4300

0.960

24.3840

29/64

0.4531

11.5094

61/64

0.9531

24.2094

0.460

11.6840

0.970

24.6380

15/32

0.4688

11.9062

31/32

0.9688

24 6062

0.470

11.9380

0.980

24.8920

31/64

0.4844

i: 3031

63/64

0.9844

25.0031

0.480

12.1920

0.990

0.490

12.4460

1.000

25.1460 25.4000

1/2

0.5000

12.7000

1

1.0000

25.4000

0.900

22.8600 23.1140

0-20

Safety

first!

Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not

A moment's

jeopardized.

lack of attention

can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

DOs and DON'Ts

Essential DON'T rely on

a jack when working under the Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support

DON'T attempt to (i.e.

on a jack

DON'T

loosen extremely tight faswheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is

may

- it

fall.

engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake start the

cooling system

the radiator cap from a hot - let

it

cool or cover

it

with a

and release the pressure gradually.

DON'T

attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will

bum

not

you.

DON'T touch any haust system

until

part of the engine or exit

has cooled

sufficiently to

avoid burns.

DON'T

siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON'T tially

inhale brake lining dust - it is potenhazardous (see Asbestos below).

DON'T on the on it.

allow spilled

floor

-

DON'T use

wipe

it

oil or grease to remain up before someone slips

wrenches or other and cause injury. DON'T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench tools which

should

DON'T alone

-

DON'T a

loose

may

fitting

slip

DO make

sure that any hoist used has a safe

working load rating adequate

when working alone on a

DO

carry out

make

work

in

vehicle.

a logical sequence and

sure that everything

is

correctly

assem-

bled and tightened.

DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets.

DO remember

that your vehicle's safety

on any

and others.

in

If

Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes concarbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have

tain

for the job.

DO get someone to check on you periodically

the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit

with possibly lethal results.

doubt

point, get professional advice.

The battery

Asbestos

Never create a spark or allow a bare bulb near a battery. They normally give a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which

light

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and

bands, clutch

-

such as brake

linings,

linings, brake torque converters, gas-

may

contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to kets, etc.

health.

If

-

in

doubt,

assume

that they

do con-

tain asbestos.

DON'T

Fire Remember

off is

highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed

maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery all

times that gasoline

is

smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recom-

mended

that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with

someone

lift

a heavy component

to help you.

njsh or take unsafe shortcuts to finish

in

or around

the vehicle while you are working on

it.

wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder.

burst.

Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When

using an electric power tool,

etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the

inspection

light,

its plug and necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel

tool

is

correctly connected to

where

that,

or fuel vapor.

Secondary ignition system

Fumes

voltage

quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor category, as do the vapors from cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done

falls into this

some allow children or animals

may

water.

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can

attempt to get

at

highly flammable. Never

slip.

job.

DO

of

or

is set.

DON'T remove cloth

containers.

other products

points.

Never use materials from unmarked

carefully.

DO keep

affects that of yourself

vehicle.

teners

and when working under a vehicle. loose clothing and long hair well out the way of moving parts.

etc.

in

a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids

vents, read the instructions

and

sol-

on the container

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly

if

components are damp

or the insulation

case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. is

defective. In the

0-21

Troubleshooting Contents

Symptom

Section

Engine and performance 15 18 3 4 14 8 9 10

off

2

17 13 6 1

12 1

7

acceleration or uphill

motor noisy or excessively rough

In

engagement

Battery

will

not hold a charge

waming is tumed on Voltage waming

light fails to

to

Fuel system Excessive

fuel

consumption

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

-

22 23

Cooling system Coolant loss Extemal coolant leakage Internal coolant leakage Overcooiing Overheating

Poor coolant

circulation

in

vehicle speed)

master cylinder dust cover and on pedal on release cylinder Grabbing (chattering) as clutch is engaged High pedal effort Noise in clutch area Pedal feels spongy when depressed Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or Fluid in area of Fluid

very

little

resistance

Unable to select gears

in tums Knock or clunk when accelerating after coasting Shudder or vibration during acceleration

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed Brake pedal travels to the floor with little resistance Brake roughness or chatter (pedal pulsates) Dragging brakes Excessive brake pedal travel Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle Grabbing or uneven braking action Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied) Parking brake does not hold

50 46 48 47 51

49

52 53 54

62 63 57 60 59 58 61

56 64 55

Suspension and steering systems Abnormal or excessive tire wear Abnormal noise at the front end

66

Cupped

76 73

71

tires

Erratic steering

when braking

38

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around comers or during braking Excessive play or looseness in steering system

35

Excessive Excessive

tire tire

wear on inside edge wear on outside edge

31

Hard steering

32 36 39 37 33

Steering wheel does not retum to center position conrectly Rattling or clicking noise in rack

and pinion

Shimmy, shake or vibration Suspension bottoms Tire tread worn in one place Vehicle pulls to one side

30 34

41

42 44 40

Driveaxles

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

28 26 27 25 24 29

Clutch Clutch pedal stays on floor Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral Fluid leakage General shift mechanism problems Transaxle fluid brown or has a burned smell Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the floor

Brakes

20

45 43

Automatic transaxle

19

come on when key go out

Slips out of gear

Vibration

Clicking noise

21 light fails

Leaks lubricant Noisy in all gears Noisy in Neutral with engine running Noisy in one particular gear

16 5

Engine electrical system Voltage

Section

Manual transaxle

Engine backfires Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching Engine hard to start when cold Engine hard to start when hot Engine lacks power Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically Engine misses at idle speed Engine nnisses throughout driving speed range Engine rotates but will not start Engine runs with oil pressure light on Engine stalls Engine starts but stops immediately Engine stumbles on acceleration Engine surges while holding accelerator steady Engine will not rotate when attempting to start Oil puddle under engine Pinging or knocking engine sounds during Starter

Symptom

Wander or poor steering stability Wheel makes a "thumping" noise

74 80 78 77 69 70 81

68 75 79 65 72 67

0-22

Troubleshooting

This section provides an easy reference guide to the more common problems which may occur during the operation of your vehicle. Various symptoms and their possible causes are grouped under headings denoting components or systems, such as Engine, Cooling system, etc. They also refer to the Chapter and/or Section that deals with the

problem.

Remember

trousuccessful bleshooting isn't a mysterious "black art" practiced only by professional mechanics. It's

that

4 Leaking fuel injector(s), fuel pump, pressure regulator, etc. (Chapter 4). 5 Fuel not reaching fuel injection system (Chapter 4). Ignition components damp or damaged 6 (Chapter 5). 7 Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in 8 the starting circuit (Chapter 5). Broken, loose or disconnected wires at 9 the ignition coil(s) or faulty coll{s) (Chapter 5).

2

3

Air

4

Fuel

clogged (Chapter

pump

PCV

6). 1 ).

not delivering sufficient fuel

5

system (Chapter 4). Leaking head gasket (Chapter 2). Timing chain and/or gears worn (Chap-

6

ter 2).

7

Camshaft lobes worn (Chapter

9

Engine misses at

idle

2).

speed

simply the result of knowledge combined

problem. Always use a process of eliminathe simplest solution and working through to the most complex - and never overlook the obvious. Anyone can run the gas tank dry or leave the lights on overnight, so don't assume that you're exempt from such oversights. Finally, always establish a clear idea why a problem has occurred and take steps to ensure that it doesn't happen again. If the electrical system fails because of a poor connection, check all other connections in the system to make sure they don't fail as well. If a particular fuse continues to blow, find out why - don't just go on replacing fuses. Remember, failure of a small component can

3

1

Engine hard to start when cold

erly

tion, starting with

often be indicative of potential failure or incorrect functioning of a

component

more important

1

Battery discharged or iow (Chapter

2

Fuel system malfunctioning (Chapter

3

Injector(s) leaking

Engine will not rotate attempting to start

(Chapter

1).

4).

4).

Engine hard to start when hot

1

Air filter

2

Fuel not reaching the fuel injection sys-

clogged (Chapter

tem (Chapter 4). 3 Corroded battery connections, especially ground (Chapter 1).

5

motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement Starter

1

Fuel tank empty.

2

Battery

discharged

slowly) (Chapter

4

Ignition

system malfunctioning (Chap-

not start

rotates

1

and

1).

4).

5

Uneven

10

Engine misses throughout speed range

1

Fuel

or low compression (Chapter

filter

2).

driving

clogged and/or impurities in 1 and 4). output at the injector (Chap-

the fuel system (Chapters

Low

fuel

3 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 4 Leaking spark plug wires (Chapter 1). Other fault in the ignition system (Chap5 ter 5).

6

Faulty emission system

(Chapter

Engine starts but stops immediately

Weak

or faulty ignition system (Chap-

ter 5).

9

Vacuum

leak

intake manifold or 1

coil

2

Loose or faulty electrical connections pack or alternator (Chapter 5).

3

Vacuum 1

11

leak at the gasket

between the

and

body

4).

1

2

4 Oil

1

Oil

puddle under engine pan gasket and/or oil pan drain bolt 1 and 2). pressure sending unit leaking (Chap-

seal leaking (Chapters

2

Oil

system,

Engine stumbles on acceleration Spark plugs fouled (Chapter 1). Fuel injection system needs adjustment

or repair (Chapter

3

7

fuel injection

4).

intake manifold/plenum and throttle

(Chapters

in

vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).

at

Insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injec-

tors (Chapter

components

6).

7

8

6

(engine

leaks (Chapters

Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures (Chapter 2).

5).

when

will

Vacuum

2

missing (Chapter

Starter pinion or flywheel teeth worn or 9 broken (Chapter 5).

Engine rotates but

Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter

3

ter 4).

Battery terminal connections loose or

2

2

1).

1 Pinion or flywheel gear teeth worn or broken (Chapter 5). Starter motor mounting bolts loose or 2

corroded (Chapter 1). 2 Battery discharged or faulty (Chapter 1). Automatic transaxle not completely 3 engaged in Park (Chapter 7) or clutch not completely depressed (Chapter 8). Also, the neutral start switch (automatic transaxle) or starter/clutch interlock switch (manual transaxle) could be faulty (Chapter 7 or 8). Broken, loose or disconnected wiring in 4 the starting circuit (Chapters 5 and 12). Starter motor pinion jamm.ed in flywheel 5 hng gear (Chapter 5). Starter solenoid faulty (Chapter 5). 6 Starter motor faulty (Chapter 5). 7 8 Ignition switch faulty (Chapter 12).

Spark plugs worn or not gapped prop(Chapter 1).

ter 5).

4

or system.

Engine and performance

1

filter

valve or plugged

and

1

to the fuel injection

with an intelligent, systematic approach to a

1

EGR

Leaking

valve (Chapters

5

4).

clogged (Chapter 1). Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter Intake manifold air leak (Chapter Fuel

filter

1).

4).

12

Engine surges while holding accelerator steady

1

Intake

ter 2).

3 Rocker arm cover gaskets leaking (Chapter 2). 4 Engine oil seals leaking (Chapter 2). 5 Timing cover sealant or sealing flange leaking (Chapter 2).

8

Engine lopes while

air

leak (Chapter

4).

pump faulty

(Chapter 4). 3 Loose fuel injector harness connections (Chapter 4). Defective ECM (Chapter 6). 4 2

Fuel

13

Engine

1

Fuel

idling or idles

erratically

stalls

5).

3 Battery terminal connections loose or corroded (Chapter 1).

1

Vacuum

leaks (Chapter

4).

filter

clogged and/or water and

0-23

Troubleshooting impurities

and

the fuel system (Chapters

in

1

4).

Ignition components damp or damaged 2 (Chapter 5). Faulty emissions system components 3 (Chapter 6). 4 Faulty or incon-ectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). Faulty sparkplug wires (Chapter 1). 5 Vacuum leak in the fuel injection system, 6 intake manifold or vacuum hoses (Chapter 4).

2

Short

3

Faulty

4

Worn engine bearings and/or

(Chapter

Engine lacks power

1 Faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (Chapter 1). 2 Fuel injection system out of adjustment or malfunctioning (Chapter 4).

3 Faulty coil(s) (Chapter 5). 4 Brakes binding (Chapter 1). 5 Automatic transaxle fluid level incorrect (Chapter 1). Clutch slipping (Chapter 8). 6 7 Fuel filter clogged and/or impurities in the fuel system (Chapter 1). 8 Emission control system not functioning properly (Chapter 6).

9

Low

uneven cylinder compression

or

pressures (Chapter

2).

odor) (see the next Section).

wiring circuit (Chapter 12).

pressure sender (Chapter

oil

2).

pump

oil

2).

18

Engine diesels (continues to run)

1

1

erly

Excessive engine operating temperature

2 (Chapter 3

4

Pinging or knocking engine sounds during acceleration or

Battery

1

Alternator drivebelt defective or not

(Chapter

(Chap-

overfilled.

and

1

12).

6 ters

Overheating

Internally

and

1

defective

battery

(Chap-

5).

light fails to

go

ter

2

Insufficient coolant in

Water

pump drivebelt defective or out of

adjustment (Chapter 1). Radiator core blocked or grille restricted 3 (Chapter 3). 4 Thermostat faulty (Chapter 3). Electric cooling fan blades broken or 5 cracked (Chapter 3). 6 Radiator cap not maintaining proper pressure (Chapter

out

system (Chap-

1).

3).

1

Faulty alternator or charging

circuit

(Chapter 5). Alternator drivebelt defective or out of 2 adjustment (Chapter 1).

25

Faulty thermostat (Chapter

5).

Voltage warning

Warning

light

External coolant leakage

light fails to

bulb defective (Chap-

ter 12).

2

3).

Alternator voltage regulator inoperative

(Chapter

1

Overcooling

Fault in the printed circuit,

dash wiring

or bulb holder (Chapter 12).

Deteriorated/damaged hoses or loose 1 clamps (Chapters 1 and 3). 2 Water pump seal defective (Chapters 1 and 3). Leakage from radiator core or header 3 tank (Chapter 3). Engine drain or water jacket core plugs 4

1).

damaged

Ignition

leaking (Chapter

components

2).

5).

6

Faulty emissions system (Chapter

7

Vacuum

17

Engine runs with

leak (Chapter

6).

Fuel system

4).

22 light

oil

on

oil

level

1).

Internal coolant leakage

1

Leaking cylinder head gasket (Chap-

ter 2). 1

(Chapter

27

Excessive fuel consumption

pressure Dirty or

clogged

air filter

element (Chap-

ter 1).

Low

line

Cooling system 24

1).

come on when key is turned on

Excessive carbon build-up in combustion chambers. 3 Fuel injection system in need of repair (Chapter 4). 4 Improper or damaged spark plugs or

1

feed or vent

Alternator not charging properly (Chap-

2

(Chapter

fuel

adjusted properly (Chapter 1). Battery terminals loose or corroded 2

26

or

a

not hold a charge

19

will

Tank

in

3 Evaporative canister filter clogged (Chapters 1 and 6). 4 Fuel injector internal parts excessively worn (Chapter 4).

Engine electrical system

Incorrect grade of fuel.

Worn

acceleration).

2

21

5

automatic

or

Leak

uphill

wires (Chapter

8)

1

3

1

size

4).

5 Vacuum leak at fuel injectors, intake manifold or vacuum hoses (Chapter 4). 6 Valves sticking (Chapter 2).

16

(Chapter

ter 4).

20 Voltage warning

ment or worn excessively (Chapter

Clutch

ter 5).

need of adjust-

in

tire

1).

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odor

1).

Fuel injection system

(Chapter

23

Faulty secondary ignition system (Chap-

ter 5).

or damaged (Chapter 4). Low tire pressure or incorrect

3).

4 Loose, broken or faulty wiring in the charging circuit (Chapter 5). 5 Short in vehicle wiring (Chapters 5

Emissions system not functioning prop(Chapter 6). Spark plug wires not routed correctly

worn

Excessive carbon build-up in combus2 tion chambers (Chapter 2). 3 Fuel injection system malfunctioning (Chapter 4). 4 Ignition system malfunctioning (Chap-

3

Engine backfires

6).

Fuel injection internal parts excessively

transaxle (Chapter 7) slipping (normally you will also hear excessive engine revving during

ter 5).

15

(Chapter

4

6

after switching off

Emissions system not functioning prop-

3 erly

5

(Chapter

14

in

2

Fuel leak (usually

accompanied by a fuel

2 Cracked cylinder bore or cylinder head (Chapter 2).

0-24 28

Troubleshooting

35

Coolant loss Too much coolant

in system (Chapter 1). Coolant boiling away because of overheating (Chapter 3). Internal or external leakage (Chapter 3). 3 4 Faulty radiator cap (Chapter 3). 1

Clutch slips (engine speed increases with no increase vehicle speed)

1

Clutch plate

wom

2

Clutch plate

is oil

main seal (Chapter

(Chapter

Inoperative water

2 ters

Restriction

in

pump

4 Warped (Chapter 8).

(Chapter

3).

cooling system (Chap-

plate

6

Clutch plate overheated. Allow to cool.

spring (Chapter

8).

and 3). Water pump

1

Clutch

(Chapter

Grabbing (chattering) as clutch

2

Oil

soaked, burned or glazed linings loose engine

or

mounts (Chapters 2 and 7). 3 Worn splines on clutch

transaxle

or

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance

ter 8).

4 Warped (Chapter 8).

pressure

Master or release cylinder

37

Noise

clutch area

1

Fork shaft improperly installed (Chap-

faulty

(Chap-

plate

plate

hub (Chapflywheel

or

ter 8).

2 3

4 5

Hose/pipe burst or leaking (Chapter Connections leaking (Chapter 8).

No

fluid in reservoir

(Chapter

or

wom

constant

or

wom

synchronizers (Chap-

mesh gears

7).

Damaged

ter 7).

43

Noisy

1

Insufficient lubricant

2

Damaged or worn bearings (Chapter 7). Worn or damaged input gear shaft

in all

gears (Chapter

3 and/or output gear shaft (Chapter

44

Slips out of gear

1

Worn

(Chapter

8).

Worn

particular gear

1).

7).

is

engaged 1

one

flywheel

or

Weak diaphragm

36

1

pressure

5

drivebelt defective or out of 3 adjustment (Chapter 1). 4 Thermostat sticking (Chapter 3).

30

Damaged

in

8).

Clutch plate not seated. It may take 30 or 40 normal starts for a new one to seat.

1

1

2

8).

soaked by leaking rear

3

Poor coolant circulation

Noisy

(Chapter

2

29

42 in

or improperly adjusted linkage

7).

Transaxle loose on engine (Chapter 7). Shift linkage does not work freely, binds 3 (Chapter 7). 4 input shaft bearing retainer broken or loose (Chapter 7). Dirt between clutch cover and engine 5 housing (Chapter 7). 6 Worn shift fork (Chapter 7). 2

8).

in

8).

If fluid is present in master cylinder dust cover, rear master cylinder seal has failed

(Chapter 8). 6 If fluid level in reservoir rises as pedal is depressed, master cylinder center valve seal is faulty (Chapter 8). 7 Broken release bearing or fork (Chapter 8).

45

Leaks lubricant

1

Excessive

ter 8).

2

Faulty release bearing (Chapter

8).

amount

transaxle (Chapter

1

Clutch pedal stays on floor Fork shaft binding

in

retainer (Chapter

housing (Chap-

in

Loose or broken input shaft bearing

2

38

lubricant

of

1).

7).

3 Input shaft bearing retainer and/or lip seal damaged (Chapter 7).

0-ring

ter 8).

2

31

master cylinder dust cover and on pedal Fluid in area of

Broken release bearing or fork (Chap-

Automatic transaxle

ter 8).

Note: Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxle,

Rear seal (Chapter

failure

in

master cylinder

39

High pedal effort

1

Fluid

on release cylinder

Release cylinder seal faulty (Chapter

Fork shaft binding

in

housing (Chap-

2

Pressure plate faulty (Chapter

Pedal feels spongy

46

Fluid leakage

compo-

1

Automatic transmission

40

with engine

Vibration

8).

34

Unable to select gears

1

Faulty transaxle (Chapter

2 3

Faulty clutch disc (Chapter

1

Rough wheel bearing (Chapter

2

Damaged

3 4

Out-of-round tires (Chapter 1). Tire out-of-balance (Chapter 10). Worn or damaged CV joint (Chapter

5

Fork and bearing not assembled prop(Chapter

driveaxle (Chapter

10).

up

8).

8).

Noisy in Neutral with engine running

4

ter 8).

steam clean-

the vehicle at low speeds so air flow will not blow the leak far from its source. Raise the vehicle and determine where the

age

clutch release bearing (Chap-

is

coming from.

Common

areas of leak-

are:

a)

Pan (Chapters

b)

Filler

1

and

7)

d)

pipe (Chapter 7) Transaxle oil lines (Chapter 7) Speedometer gear or sensor (Chapter

e)

Modulator

c)

Damaged

To pinpoint a leak, first remove ail builtand grime from the transaxle housing

ing. Drive

8).

Faulty pressure plate (Chapter 8). 5 Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts loose (Chapter 8).

which can easily be blown by

dirt

leak

41

oil,

with degreasing agents and/or

7). 8).

a deep

flow to the transaxle.

2

system (Chapter

fluid is

red color. Fluid leaks should not be confused

when

air

erly

this

problems other than the following, the vehicle should be taken to a dealer service department or a transmission shop.

8).

depressed Air in

home mechanic

8).

Manual transaxle 33

for the

diagnose and sen/ice

nent. For

8).

ter 8).

32

it's difficult

to properly

7)

0-25

Troubleshooting

47

Transaxle

fluid

brown or has a

53

burned smell Change

Transaxle overheated. (Chapter

Knock or clunk when accelerating after coasting

for cut or

General

shift

54

1 Chapter 7 Part B deals with checking and adjusting the shift linkage on automatic transaxles. Comnnon problems which may be

Engine starting

in

gears other

tiian

Park

or Neutral. b)

Indicator on

sliifter

pointing to a gear

Vehicle

moves when

Worn

or

damaged CV

joints.

Sticking Inboard joint assembly. Correct

or replace as necessary (Chapter

.

(Chapter c)

Throttle valve (TV) cable out of adjust-

7).

10).

The vehicle isn 't loaded with weight an unequal manner.

in

55

Vehicle pulls to one side during braking

1

Incorrect

2

Front end out of line (have the front end

tire

pressures (Chapter

1).

Transaxle slips, shifts roughly, is noisy or has no drive in forward or reverse gears

on same

3

Unmatched

4

Restricted brake lines or hoses (Chap-

5

tires

axle.

Excessive brake pedal travel

1

Partial

2

Insufficient

and

brake system fluid

1 and 9). trapped

failure

in

(Chapter

9).

master cylinder

Air

in

system (Chapters

1

9).

80

Dragging brakes

1

Master cylinder pistons not returning

correctly (Chapter

2

61

9).

Resthcted brakes

and

1

lines or

hoses (Chap-

9).

Incorrect 3 (Chapter 9).

parking

brake adjustment

Grabbing or uneven braking action

6

1

0).

for the

Before taking the vehicle to a check the level and condition of the fluid as described In Chapter 1 Correct the fluid level as necessary or change the fluid and filter If needed. If the problem persists, have a professional diagnose the probable cause.

Front disc brake pads worn out. The noise comes from the wear sensor rubbing against the disc. Replace pads with new

fluid level.

Noise (high-pitched squeal when the brakes are applied)

repair shop,

ones immediately (Chapter

valves

9).

Binding brake pedal mechanism (Chap-

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

1

Air In hydraulic lines (Chapter 9).

2

Master cylinder mounting bolts loose

(Chapter 3

9).

Master cylinder defective (Chapter

9).

9).

63 57

proportioner

ter 9).

62 56

of

9).

Malfunction of power brake booster unit

(Chapter

3

Loose suspension parts (Chapter Loose brake calipers (Chapter 9).

Malfunction

(Chapter 2

Malfunctioning brake assembly (Chap-

above problems, but the home mechanic should be concerned with only one possibility -

59

1

ter 9).

7

There are many probable causes

or

oil

aligned).

ter 9).

51

9).

Brake pads contaminated with

seat.

ters

Engine will start in gears other than Park or Neutral

(Chapter

9).

caliper pistons or wheel

.

7).

malfunctioning

more

grease (Chapter 9). 6 New pads installed and not yet seated. It will take a while for the new material to

3

49

Starter safety switch

or

(Chapters

Note: Before assuming that a brake problem exists, make sure a) The tires are in good condition and properly inflated (Chapter 1). b) The front end alignment is correct

50

One

9).

8).

Brakes

ment (Chapter

4

(Chapter

failure

Repair or

shift

floor

Excessively worn pads (Chapter

8).

linkage adjustment procedure.

Transaxle will not downshift with accelerator pedal pressed to the

3

5

in Park.

Refer to Chapter 7 Part B for the

2

system

Partial

cylinders seized or sticking (Chapter

other than the one actually being used. c)

9).

2

acceleration

replace as necessary (Chapter

3

Malfunctioning power brake booster

1

(Chapter

Shudder or vibration during

1 Excessive inner CV joint angle. Check and connect as necessary (Chapter 8).

2

attributed to poorly adjusted linkage are: a)

8).

mechanism

problems

Excessive pedal effort required to stop vehicle

Worn or damaged outer CV joint. Check damaged boots (Chapter 1). Repair

fluid

1).

as necessary (Chapter

48

58

Brake pedal travels to the floor with

Brake roughness or chatter

little

resistance

(pedal pulsates) or no fluid In the master cylinder caused by leaking caliper or wheel

Little

Excessive front brake disc lateral runout (Chapter 9). Parallelism not within specifications 2

Driveaxles

52

Clicking noise

in

turns

(Chapter

Worn or damaged outer damaged boots (Chapter

for cut or

8).

1).

Repair

cylinder pistons, loose,

nected brake

lines

damaged

(Chapter

or discon-

9).

9).

Uneven pad wear caused by caliper not sliding due to Improper clearance or dirt

3

CV joint. Check

as necessary (Chapter

reservoir

1

(Chapter 9). Defective brake disc (Chapter 4

9).

64

Parking brake does not hold Check the parking brake (Chapter

9).

0-26

Troubleshooting

Suspension and steering systems

a)

Check

the

tire

pressures and look for

uneven wear. b)

c)

Check

the steering universal joints or

coupling from the column to the steering gear for loose fasteners and wear. Check the front and rear suspension and the steering gear assembly for loose and

1

Steering wheel does not retum to center position correctly Lack of lubrication

rod ends (Chapter 2

Binding

In

at balljoints

and

tie-

10).

Look

for

76

Cupped

1

Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chap-

column (Chapter 10). rack-and-pinlon assembly

3 Defective (Chapter 10). 4 Front wheel alignment problem (Chap-

ter 10).

2

ter 10).

3

and

out-of-round or out-of-balance

bent rims and loose and/or rough wheel bearings. tires,

71

tires

steering

damaged parts. d)

Wom shock absortjers (Chapter 10). Incorrect, broken or sagging spnngs 3 (Chapter 10). 2

70

Note: Before attempting to diagnose the suspension and steering systems, perform the following preliminary checks:

Abnormal noise

4

end

at the front

Wom shock absort>ers (Chapter 0). Wheel bearings wom (Chapters 1

8

10).

Excessive

tire

or wheel runout (Chap-

ter 10).

5

Lack of lubrication at balljoints and tierod ends (Chapter 1). 2 Loose upper stnjt mount (Chapter 1 0). Wom tie-rod ends (Chapter 10). 3

Wom balljoints (Chapter

1 0).

1

65

Vehicle pulls to one side

1

Mismatched or uneven

(Chap-

tires

ter 10).

2

3

Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 1 0). Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chap-

4 5

Loosestabilizer bar (Chapter 10). Loose wheel lug nuts (Chapter 1).

6

Loose suspension

Front brakes dragging (Chapter

9).

Excessive

tire

wear on outside

edge

bolts (Chapter 10).

pressures inconrect (Chapter 1). Excessive speed in turns. Front end alignment incorrect (excessive 3 toe-in or positive camber). Have profession1

Inflation

2

ter 10).

4

77

72

Wander

1

Mismatched or uneven

or poor steering stability

ally aligned.

wear

66

Abnormal or excessive

1

Front wheel alignment inconrect (Chap-

tire

(Chap-

tires

4

Suspension arm bent or twisted (Chap-

ter 10).

ter 10).

78

Wom shock absorber (Chapter 10).

Lack of lubrication at balljoints or tie-rod ends (Chapters 1 and 10). Wom shock absort)ers (Chapter 1 0). 3 4 Loose stabilizer bar (Chapter 1 0). Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 1 0). 5 6 Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chap-

5

Overloaded vehicle.

ter 10).

1

Inflation

6

Tires not rotated regularly.

7 Worn steering gear clamp bushings (Chapter 10).

2

Front end alignment incorrect (toe-out

2

ter 10).

2

Sagging or broken springs (Chapter

3 4

Tire out-of-balance (Chapter

1 0).

1 0).

Excessive

tire

wear on

inside

edge pressures incorrect (Chapter

or excessive negative camber).

1).

Have profes-

sionally aligned.

67

73 1

2

Blisteror bump on tire (Chapter 1). Improper shock absortjer action (Chap-

ter 10).

1

and 2 3

68

3 Loose or nents (Chapter

Wheel makes a 'thumping" noise

Shimmy, shake or

vibration

when braking

Wheel

worn

bearings

(Chapters

5

Broken or sagging springs (Chapter 10). Leaking wheel cylinder or caliper (Chap-

Warped brake discs (rotors) (Chapter 9). Worn steering gear clamp bushings

(Chapter

damaged

wom

79

Tire tread

1

Tires out-of-balance.

2

Damaged

replace 3

if

steering

compo-

10).

8

10).

ter 9).

4 1 Tire or wheel out-of-balance or out-ofround (Chapter 1 0). Loose or worn wheel bearings (Chap2

Erratic steering

in

one place

or buckled wheel. Inspect and

necessary.

Defective

tire

(Chapter

1).

10).

ter 10).

3

4 5 6

69

Wom tie-rod ends (Chapter Wom balljoints (Chapter 10).

1 0).

74

Excessive wheel runout (Chapter 10). Blister or bump on tire (Chapter 1 ).

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around comers or during braking

1

Loose

2

Worn shock absorbers

(Chapter

Hard steering

3 4

stabilizer bar

(Chapter

2

Front wheel alignment incorrect (Chap-

Broken or sagging springs (Chapter Overioaded vehicle.

Low tire

Wheel bearings

Tie-rod end loose or

3

Steering gear loose (Chapter 10).

1).

(Chapter 1 0). (Chapter

wom

1 0).

Rattling or clicking noise in rack

and pinion 75

Suspension bottoms

1

Overioaded vehicle.

Steering pressure (Chapter

in

1 0).

81

ter 10).

3

wom

1

2

0).

mounts

Excessive play or looseness steering system

10).

1 Lack of lubrication at balljoints, tie-rod ends and steering gear assembly (Chap-

ter 10).

1

or

80

ter 10).

gear clamps loose (Chap-

1-1

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Contents

Section Air filter

and PCV

filter

replacement

Automatic transaxle fluid and filter change Automatic transaxle fluid level check Battery check and maintenance Brake check Chassis lubrication Cooling system check Cooling system servicing (draining, flushing and Driveaxle boot check Drivebelt and tensioner check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Evaporative emissions control system check Exhaust system check Fluid level checks Fuel filter replacement Fuel system check

refilling)

20 28 6 8 18 36 9 30 13 22 12

32 15 4

27 19

Introduction

1

Maintenance schedule Manual transaxle lubricant change Manual transaxle lubricant level check

2

29 16

Section

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and replacement Power steering fluid level check Positive

-

31

7

34 23 25 26 33 35

Rotating the engine

Seat belt check

Seatback latch check Spare tire and jack check Spark plug replacement Spark plug wire check and replacement Starter safety switch check Suspension and steering check Throttle Body Injection (TBI) mounting nut/bolt torque check (2.5L engine only) Throttle linkage check Tire and tire pressure checks

24 14 21

37 5 17 3 10

Tire rotation

Tune-up general information Underhood hose check and replacement Windshield wiper blade inspection and replacement

11

Specifications

Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids

Note: Listed here are manufacturer recommendations at the time this manual was written. Manufacturers occasionally upgrade lubricant specifications, so check with your local auto parts store for current recommendations. Engine oil API grade "certified for gasoline engines" Type

and

See accompanying chart

Viscosit/

Dexron

Automatic transaxle fluid Manual transaxle lubricant Engine coolant

III

Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)

See your owner's manual or consult a dealer service department 50/50 mixture of water and the specified ethylene glycol-based (green color) antifreeze or "DEX-COOL", silicate-free (orange-color) coolant

-

DO NOT mix the two types

Clutch

fluid

Deico Supreme DeIco Supreme

Power

steering fluid

CM

Brake

their fluid

fluid

II

or

II

or

DOT 3 DOT 3

(refer to

Sections

4,

9 and 30)

fluid

fluid

power steering fluid or equivalent SAE NLGI no. 2 chassis grease

Chassis grease

HOT WEATHER Engine

oil

For best fuel

viscosity chart

economy and cold SAE

starting, select the lowest

viscosity grade for the expected

temperature range

LOOK FOR ONE OF THESE LABELS SAE SW-30

COLD WEATHER

1-a3HAYNES

1-2

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Capacities Engine oil (with filter change) 2.5L four cylinder 3.4L V6 All

3.0 qts 5.0 qts

others

1996 and 1997 and

earlier

4.0 qts

later

4.5 to 5.0 qts

Fuel tank

2.2L four-cylinder others 1988 through 1990

1

7.1 gals

%

All

16 gals

1991 through 1996

1997 and

16.5 gals 17.0 qts

later

Depends on engine, transaxle and cooling

Cooling systenn

0(D(§)®

system options. Consult your owner's manual for exact capacity

Automatic transaxle

(fluid

and

fitter

change)

3T40 transaxle All

4.0 qts

others

1995 and earlier 1996 through 2001 2002 and later Manual transaxle (approximate) 'All

2.2 Liter fourcylinder engir>e

capacities approximate.

Add as

6.0 qts 7.0 qts 7.4 qts

0(D®®

2.1 qts

necessary to bring to appropriate

level.

2.5L engine

Front

system

ignition

0(S)®®

Spark plug type and gap Four cylinder engines 2.3L 2.5L V6 engines

1990 and

2.3L engine

AC AC AC

2.2L

type

R44LTSMA or equivalent @

type

FR3L

type

R43CTS6

or equivalent

@

0.035 inch @ 0.060 inch

or equivalent

AC type R43LTSE or equivalent @

earlier

1991 through 1995 3.1L

3100 3.4L

3800 1996 and later 3100 (1996 through 2003). 3100 (2004 and later) 3.4L

3800 Four-cylinder engines

R44LTSM R44LTSM R42LTSM

AC type AC type AC type AC type

41-940 41-101 41-919 41-921

or equivalent

@ 0.045

@ 0.060 inch @ 0.045 inch R44LTS6 or equivalent @ 0.060 inch or equivalent or equivalent

@ 0.060 inch @ 0.060 inch or equivalent @ 0.045 inch or equivalent @ 0.060 inch or equivalent

or equivalent

1-3-4-2

General Radiator cap pressure rating.

15 psi

Brake pad lining wear limit .... Brake shoe lining wear limit...

1/8 inch

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otfierwise indicated)

oil

oil

drain plug

body nuts/bolts

Torque strut bolts Spark plugs Four cylinder engines 2.2L

2.3Land2.5L

V6 engines 2.8Land3.1L Wheel

1/16 inch from rivets

pan bolts

3T40 4T60-E and 4T65-E Engine

V6 engine

(2)

(D (D

1995 and earlier 2.8L 3.1 Land 3,4L V6 engines 4 6 3

1

2S 1671H

1-6-5-4-3-2

3800 engines

Throttle

inch

1-2-3-4-5-6

3100 and 3.4L

Automatic transaxle

0.045 inch

3800

AC type AC type AC type AC type

Firing order

3.1L,

0.045 inch

3100, 3.4L and 3800 lug nuts

97to120in-lbs 156 in-lbs 15 to 20 144 in-lbs 50

132 15

oooSa

S(2 3)®

® ®® ® ® ®

FRONT OF VEHICLE

1994 and later 3100 V6 engine

in-lbs 1996

3.41.

V6 engine

20 15

100

Cylinder and coil terminal locations

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

1-3

i

A typical V6 engine compartment 1

2 3 4 5

Brake fluid reservoir Windshield washer fluid reservoir

6

Battery

8 9

Air cleaner housing

Engine

oil filler

This Chapter

is

designed to help the

the Chevrolet Lumina, Pontiac Grand Prix, Buick Regal and Oldsmobile Cutlass W-body models with the goals of maximum performance, economy, safety and reliability in mind.

maintain

Included is a master maintenance schedule, followed by procedures dealing specifically with each item on the schedule.

Engine compartment fuse block Drivebelt routing decal

12

Power steering

13

Serpentine drivebelt

10

Radiator hose

fluid reservoir

the mileage/time maintenance schedule and

the wheels are already removed. Finally,

the step-by-step procedures

suppose you have to borrow or rent a torque wrench. Even if you only need it to tighten the spark plugs, you might as well check the

a planned maintenance program that should produce a long and reliable service life. Keep in mind that it's a comprehensive plan, so main-

taining

some

will

result in

items but not others at the speci-

fied intervals will not

produce the same

As you service your

results.

vehicle, you'll dis-

cover that many of the procedures can - and should - be grouped together because of the nature of the particular procedure you're performing or because of the close proximity of

checks, adjustments, component replacement and other helpful items are

two otherwise unrelated components to one

accompanying illustrathe engine compartment and the

underside of the vehicle for the locations of

For example, if the vehicle is raised, yoo should inspect the exhaust, suspension, steering and fuel systems while you're under

various components.

the vehicle.

Visual

included. Refer to the

tions of

1

Engine coolant reservoir Engine oil dipstick Radiator cap

cap

Introduction

home mechanic

7

Servicing your vehicle

in

accordance with

another.

When

makes good sense

you're rotating the to

tires,

it

check the brakes since

torque of as

many

critical

let's

fasteners as time

allows.

The first step in this maintenance program is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the procedures you're planning to do, then gather up all the parts and tools needed. If it looks like you might run into problems during a particular seek advice from a mechanic or an experienced do-it-yourselfer. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature Is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery (see the front of this job,

manual).

m^M

1-4

Chapter

1

A 1

2 3 4 5

Automatic transaxle fluid dipstick Brake fluid reservoir Power sfeenng fluid reservoir Windshield washer fluid reservoir Battery

Tune-up and routine maintenance

typical

Quad-4 engine compartment 6 7

8 9 10

Ar cleaner housing Engine coolant reservoir Engine oil filler cap/dipstick Radiator cap Engine compartment fuse block

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Typical front underside 1

Radiator drain plug

2 3

Front brake caliper

4 5

Lower control arm bushing

6

(riot visible)

1-5

components Steering gear

Fuel lines

7

Automatic transaxle fluid pan Engine oil drain plug

8

Tie-rod

9

Driveaxle

end

^^

1-6

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Typical rear underside view - leaf-spring models 1

2

Muffler

Fuel tank

3

Fuel

filter

4

Typical rear underside view - coil spring/strut models 1

Muffler

2

Fuel

filter

3 4

Fuel tank (under plastic shield) Coil-spring/strut unit

Rear disc brake caliper

1-7

Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Pontiac Grand Prix, Olds Cutlass Supreme Maintenance schedule

2

The following maintenance intervals are based on the assumption owner will be doing the maintenance or service work, as opposed to having a dealer service department do the work. Although the time/mileage intervals are loosely based on factory recommendations, most have been shortened to ensure, for example, that such items as lubricants and fluids are checked/changed at intervals that promote maximum engine/driveline service life. Also, subject to the preference of the individual owner interested in keeping his or her vehicle in peak condition at all times, and with the vehicle's ultimate resale in mind, many of the maintenance procedures may be performed more often than recommended in the following schedule. We encourage such owner initiative. When the vehicle is new it should be serviced initially by a factory that the vehicle

Every 15,000 miles or 12 months, whichever

comes first Inspect the fuel system (Section 19)

Replace the

Check the

air filter

and the PCV

throttle txKJy nut/bott

filter

(Section 20)

torque

-

2.5L four cylinder engine

only (Section 21)

Check the engine

drivebelt(s) (Section 22)

Inspect the seat belts (Section 23) Check the starter safety switch (Section 24)

Check the seat back latch (Section 25) Check the spare tire and jack (Section 26)

authorized dealer service department to protect the factory warranty. In many cases the initial maintenance check is done at no cost to the owner (check with your dealer service department for more informa-

Every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever

comes first

tion).

All

Every 250 miles or weekly, whichever

comes

items listed above plus:

Replace the

fuel filter (Section 27)***

Change the automatic transaxle fluid (Section 28)** Change the manual transaxle lubricant (Section 29)***

first

Service the cooling system (drain, flush and

Check Check Check Check Check

the engine

oil level

(Section 4)

the engine coolant level (Section

4)

the windshield washer fluid level (Section 4)

the brake and clutch the tires and

tire

fluid levels

(green-colored

Inspect the evaporative emissions control system (Section 32) Replace the spari< plugs (conventional [non-platinum] spart< plugs)

(Section 4)

pressures (Section

refill)

ethylene glycol anti-freeze only) (Section 30) Inspect and replace, if necessary, the PCV valve (Section 31)

5)

(Section 33)

Inspect the spark plug wires (Section 35)

Every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever

Every 60,000 miles or 48 months, whichever

comes first

comes first

All

items listed at>ove plus:

Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section Check the power steering fluid level (Section 7) Check the cooling system (Section 9) Change the engine oil and filter (Section 12)

if necessary the timing belt (3.4L V6 engines) (Chapter 2E). Note: After 60,000 miles, the timing belt should

Inspect and replace, 6)

be inspected every 15,000

miles.

Every 100,000 miles or 5 years, whichever

comes first Every 7500 miles or 6 months, whichever

Replace the spark plugs (platinum-tipped spark plugs) (Section 33) Service the cooling system (drain, flush and refill) (orange-colored "DEX-COOL" silicate-free coolant only) (Section 30)

comes first All items listed atx)ve plus:

service the battery (Section 8)

Check and

underhood hoses (Section

Inspect and replace,

if

necessary,

Inspect and replace,

if

necessary, the windshield wiper blades

(Section

all

1 1

driveaxle boots (Section 13) Inspect the suspension and steering components (Section 14) Inspect the exhaust system (Section 15)

Check the

Check

10)

• If the vehicle frequently tows a trailer, is operated primarily in stop-and-go conditions or its bralaking soda and water can be used to

6 Refer to

will

corrosion (be sure to get the correct

5

7

and cable

Treated felt washers - Placing one of these on each terminal, directly under

4

fluid

color

the

battery!

7

and compare the two

-

consider when servicing the battery

remember that's acid inside

If

When

1

additional

color, or

required, pour the

all power steering hoses, hose connections, the power steering pump and the rack and pinion assembly should be care-

fully

pour it directly into the tube using a funnel. It takes about one pint to raise the level from the ADD mark to the upper edge of the cross-hatched area with a hot transaxle, so add the fluid a little at a time and keep checking the level until it's conrect.

fluid

is

additions,

battery maintenance

PT" should be 1

fluid is required,

some new

8

Tools and materials required for

8.1

warm, the

"ADD

mark.

additional fluid

using a funnel to prevent 1

1

mark (see

If

specified type directly into the reservoir,

!

fluid level.

ADD

7

i

and read the

fluid

illustration).

A sealed battery is standard equipment on all vehicles covered by this manual. Although this type of battery has many advantages over the older, capped cell type, and never requires the addition of water, it 2

Chapter

8.4

should

Check the tightness

of the battery cable terminal bolts

be

still

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

A tool

8.5a

like this

one

1-13

8.5b Use the brush to finish the cleaning job

(available at auto

parts stores) is used to clean the side terminal type battery contact area

routinely maintained according

to the procedures which follow.

Check 3

The

battery

is

located on the

the engine compartment. battery should

The

be inspected

Check the

side of

periodically for

damage such as a cracked case 4

left

exterior of the

or cover.

tightness of the battery cable

terminals and connections (see illustration) to ensure

good

electrical

connections and

check the entire length of each cable cracks and frayed conductors.

for

corrosion (visible as white, fluffy is evident, remove the cables from the terminals, clean them with a battery brush

5

If

deposits)

and

reinstall the cables (see illustrations). Corrosion can be kept to a minimum by using special treated fiber washers available at

auto parts stores or by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the terminals and cables after they are assembled. 6 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition and the hold-down clamp bolt is tight. If the battery is removed from the tray, make sure no parts remain in the bottom of the tray

When

when

the battery

reinstalling the

is

reinstalled.

hold-down clamp

bolt,

do not overtighten it. 7 Information on removing and installing the battery can be found in Chapter 5. Information on jump starting can be found at the front of this manual. For more detailed battery checking procedures, refer to the Haynes Automotive

Electrical

Manual.

Cleaning Corrosion on the hold-down components, battery case and surrounding areas can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned 8

areas with plain water. 9 Any metal parts of the vehicle damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-

based primer, then painted.

Charging Warning: When batteries are being charged, hydrogen gas, which is very explosive and flammable, is produced. Do not smoke or

8.5c

The

be a clean, shiny terminal area

result should

allow open flames near a charging or a recently charged battery. Wear eye protection when near the battery during charging. Also, make sure the charger is unplugged before connecting or disconnecting the battery from

8.5d Some models are also equipped with a remote positive battery terminal - be sure to remove the cover and check for corrosion and a that the cable is securely fastened 12

The average time necessary

battery should

be

listed in

the charger

come

with the charger.

Slow-rate charging Is the best way to 10 restore a battery that's discharged to the point where it will not start the engine. It's also a good way to maintain the battery charge in a vehicle that's only driven a few miles between starts. Maintaining the battery charge is particularly important in the winter when the battery must work harder to start

trickle

charger

the engine and electrical accessories that drain the battery are in greater use. 1

It's

best to use a one or

two-amp

bat-

(sometimes called a "trickle" They are the safest and put the strain on the battery. They are also the

tery charger

charger). least

a faster charge, you can use a higher amperage charger, but don't use

least expensive. For

one rated more than 1/1 0th the amp/hour rating of the battery. Rapid boost charges that claim to restore the power of the battery in one to two hours are hardest on the battery and can damage batteries not in good condi tion.

This type of charging should only be

used

in

emergency

situations.

will

to charge a

the instructions that

As a general rule, a charge a battery in 1 2 to 1

hours. 1 Remove all of the cell caps (if equipped) and cover the holes with a clean cloth to prevent spattering electrolyte. Disconnect the negative battery cable and hook the battery

charger leads to the battery posts (positive to positive, negative to negative), then plug in the charger. Make sure it is set at 1 2 volts if it

has a selector switch. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 14 If you're using a charger with a rate higher than two amps, check the battery regularly during charging to make sure it doesn't overheat.

If

you're using a trickle charger, you

can safely

let the battery charge overnight you've checked it regulany for the first couple of hours. 15 If the battery has removable cell caps,

after

measure the

specific gravity with a

hydrome-

1-14

Chapter

every hour dunng the last few hours of the charging cycle. Hydrometers are available inexpensively from auto parts stores - follow

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

ter

the instructions that

come

Check could

for a chafed area that

fail

prematurely.

with the hydrome-

Consider the battery charged when change in the specific gravity reading for two hours and the electrolyte in the cells is gassing (bubbling) freely. The specific gravity reading from each cell should be very

ter.

there's no

close to the others. bly

has a bad

If

not, the battery

proba-

cell(s).

Some

batteries with sealed tops have hydrometers on the top that indicate the state of charge by the color displayed in the hydrometer window. Normally, a brightcolored hydrometer indicates a full charge and a dark hydrometer indicates the battery still needs charging. Check the battery manufacturer's instructions to be sure you know what the colors mean. 17 If the battery has a sealed top and no built-in hydrometer, you can hook up a digital voltmeter across the battery terminals to check the charge. A fully charged battery should read 12.5 volts or higher.

16

built-in

Check for a soft area indicating the hose has deteriorated inside.

Overtightening the clamp on a hardened hose will damage the

hose and cause a

bends (arrow) accidentally

hoses

leak.

10

Cooling system check

9

Refer to

illustration 9.4

destroy the efficiency of the

coolant which

is

designed

"DEX-COOL"

to last for

100,000

Many major engine

failures

can be

attributed to a faulty cooling system.

Check each hose

for swelling and oil-soaked ends. Cracks and breaks can be located by squeezing the hos

If

the

equipped with an automatic transaxle, the cooling system also cools the transaxle fluid and plays an important role in vehicle

is

prolonging transaxle life. 2 The cooling system should be checked with the engine cold. Do this before the vehicle is driven for the day or after the engine has been shut off for at least three hours.

Remove

3 the

left until

hissing in

it

the radiator cap by turning

reaches a stop.

sounds

(indicating there

the system), wait

down on

until

it

If

it

to

you hear any

is still

stops.

pressure

Now

have a habit of the worst possible time - to prevent the inconvenience of a blown radiator or heater hose, Inspect them

9.4 Hoses, like drivebelts, failing at

press

carefully as

the cap with the palm of your hand

and continue tuning to the left until the cap can be removed. Thoroughly clean the cap, inside and out, with clean water. Also clean the filler neck on the radiator. All traces of corrosion should be removed. The coolant inside the radiator should be relatively transparent. If it is rust colored, the system should be drained and refilled (Section 30). If the coolant level is not up to the top. add additional antifreeze/coolant mixture (see Section

4).

check the large upper and lower radiator hoses along with any smaller diameter heater hoses which run from the engine to the firewall. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any hose which is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (see illustration). Make sure all hose connections are 5 4

Carefully

DO

system

is

the

air

conditioning

under high pressure)

Underhood hose check and replacement

Refer to

miles or five years. 1

(the

-

damage

General

Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze and orange-colored "DEXCOOL " silicate-free coolant because doing so will

hoses are easily used at all NOT disconnect or

Air conditioning

10.1

Identified by the metal tubes

shown here

illustration 10.

Caution: Replacement of air conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning shop that has the equipment to depressurize the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses (see illustration^ unt/V the system has t>een depressunzed. 1 High temperatures under the hood can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Penodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, matenal hardening and leaks. Information specific to the cooling system hoses can be found in Section 9. Some, but not all, hoses are secured to 2 the fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven't lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren't

used,

make

sure the hose hasn't

expanded and/or hardened where tight.

A

leak

in

the cooling system

show up as white

will

usually

or njst colored deposits on

the areas adjoining the leak.

If

wire-type

over the

fitting,

allowing

it

it

slips

to leak.

Vacuum hoses common

vacuum hoses,

clamps are used at the ends of the hoses, rt may be wise to replace them with more

3

secure screw-type clamps. 6 Use compressed air or a soft brush to remove bugs, leaves, etc. from the front of the radiator or air conditioning condenser. Be careful not to damage the delicate cooling fins or cut yourself on them. 7 Every other inspection, or at the first indication of cooling system problems, have the cap and system pressure tested. If you don't have a pressure tester, most gas sta-

be color coded or identified by colored molded into each hose. Vanous systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When replacing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. Often the only effective way to check a 4 hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to lat>el the hoses and fittings to ensure

tions

and

repair

mal charge.

shops

will

do

this for

a mini-

It's

quite

especially those

in

for

the emissions system, to

stripes

correct installation.

5

When

checking vacuum hoses, be sure

Chapter

11.5a On 1995 and earlier models, lift the release lever (arrow), then slide the blade assembly off the wiper arm

to include any plastic T-fittings

in

the check.

11.5b On 1996 and later models, press the release tab, then slide the blade assembly down and out of the hook in the arm

down

or water hose for fuel lines.

9

where

over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 6 A small piece of vacuum hose (1/4-inch inside dianneter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the

These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be "sprung" during the removal process. As a result spring-type clamps be replaced with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is

sound characteristic of a vacuum Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be careful not to allow your body or the hose to come into contact with moving engine components such as the drivebelt, cooling fan, etc.

Metal lines

fits

"hissing" leak.

Fuel hose Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of

being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand. 7

Check

all

rubber fuel lines for deteriora-

and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends and just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter and fuel injection

tion

unit.

8 High quality fuel line, usually identified by the word Fluroelastomer printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line replacement. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced

vacuum

line,

clear plastic tubing

on

Spring-type clamps are fuel lines.

replaced.

Sections of steel tubing often used for between the fuel pump and fuel injection unit. Check carefully for cracks, kinks and flat spots in the line. 11 If a section of metal fuel line must be replaced, only seamless steel tubing should 10

fuel line

be used, since copper and aluminum tubing do not have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 12 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and brake proportioning unit (if used) for cracks in the lines and

Any sign of brake fluid leakage an immediate thorough inspection of the brake system. loose

fittings.

calls for

11

Windshield wiper blade inspection and replacement

Refer to

illustrations 11.5a,

11.5b and 11.7

The windshield wiper and blade assembe inspected pehodically for damage, loose components and cracked or worn 1

bly should

blade elements.

Road film can build up on the wiper blades and affect their efficiency, so they should be washed regularly with a mild detergent solution. The action of the wiping mechanism can 3 loosen the bolts, nuts and fasteners, so they should be checked and tightened, as necessary, at the same time the wiper blades are 2

checked.

The rubber element is retained to the blade by small clips - the metal backing of the rubber element can be compressed at one end with pliers, allowing the element to slide out of the clips 1 1 .7

4

commonly used

Inspect the fittings for cracks and the hose it

1-15

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

If

the wiper blade elements (sometimes

called inserts) are cracked,

worn or warped,

they should be replaced with

new ones.

5 On 1995 and earlier models remove the wiper blade assembly from the wiper arm by using a small screwdriver to lift the release lever while pulling on the blade to release it (see illustration). On 1996 and later models lift the arm assembly away from the glass for clearance, press on the release lever, then slide the wiper blade assembly out of the hook in the end of the arm (see illustration). 6 With the blade removed from the vehicle, you can remove the rubber element from the blade.

Using pliers, pinch the metal backing of 7 the element (see illustration), then slide the

element out of the blade assembly. Compare the new element with the old 8 for length, design, etc.

9

Slide the

new element

into place.

It

will

automatically lock at the correct location. Reinstall the blade assembly on the arm, 1 wet the windshield glass and test for proper

operation.

12

Engine

Refer to 12.18

oil

and

filter

cliange

illustrations 12.3, 12.9, 12.14

and

1 Frequent oil changes are the most important preventive maintenance procedures that can be done by the home mechanic. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Although some sources recommend oil filter changes every other oil change, we feel that the minimal cost of an oil filter and the relative ease with which it is installed dictate that a new filter be used every tine the oil is changed. Gather together all necessary tools and 3

Chapter

1-16

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

The engine

12.9

drain plug oil pan -

oil

at the rear of the

12.14 The

located

is it

is

usually

very tight, so use a box-end wrench to avoid rounding off the hex

oil filter is

as well and for removal

usually on very tight

require a special wrench DO NOT use the wrench to

will -

tighten the

new filter!

mounts on the engine. Check the old needed, use

warm-up time

this

to gather

everything necessary for the job. The correct

type of

These tools are required when changing the engine oil and filter

12.3

1

2

Drain pan - It should be fairly shallow in depth, but wide to prevent spills Rubber gloves - When removing the drain plug and filter, you will get oil on your hands (the gloves will prevent

Breaker bar plug

4

is tight,

Sometimes the oil drain and a long breaker bar is -

needed to loosen it Socket - To be used

with the breaker bar or a ratchet (must be the correct size to fit the drain plug - six-point preferred)

5

Filter

wrench

-

This

is

a metal band-

type wrench, which requires clearance

around the

6

Filter

filter

wrench

bottom of the

-

to

be

effective

fits on the and can be turned

This type

filter

with a ratchet or breaker bar (differentsize

wrenches are available

different types of

your application can be found

Recommended

lubricants

and

fluids at the

beginning of this Chapter. 7 With the engine oil warm (warm engine oil will drain better and more built-up sludge will

be removed with the

port the vehicle.

Make

oil),

sure

raise it's

and sup-

safely sup-

ported. all

necessary tools, rags and

newspapers under the

vehicle. Position the

pan under the drain plug. Keep in mind that the oil will initially flow from the pan with some force, so place the pan accordingly. Being careful not to touch any of the hot 9 exhaust components, remove the drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan (see illustration). Depending on how hot the oil is, you may want to wear gloves while unscrewing the plug the final few turns. drain

Allow the old

10

oil

may be necessary

to drain Into the pan.

move

to

under the engine as the

oil

It

all

the

oil

18 Apply a light coat of oil to the rubber gasket on the new oil filter (see illustration). Open a can of oil and partially fill the oil filter with fresh oil. Oil pressure will not build in the

engine

until

with no

pump has it

filled

the

filter

at this

pressure.

oil

the

filter

turers

canister or box.

recommend

Most

filter

manufac-

against using a

filter

wrench due to the possibility of overtightening and damage to the seal. 20 Remove all tools, rags. etc. from under the vehicle, being careful not to spill the the drain pan, then lower the vehicle. 21

Move

22

the

oil

partially filling

19 Attach the new filter to the engine, following the tightening directions printed on

flow slows to a off

the

time will reduce the amount of time the engine runs

so

oil,

locate the

has drained, wipe

to

it.

ing.

After

1

filters)

filter

stuck to stuck to the

isn't

is If the gasket engine (use a flashlight if necessary), remove

the pan farther

trickle.

for

sure the rubber gasket

the engine.

with

Move

8

burns)

3

in

for

oil

make

23

to the engine

oil filler

oil in

compartment and

cap.

Pour the fresh oil through the filler openfunnel can be used. Pour three quarts of fresh oil into the

A

drain plug with a clean rag. Small metal partito the plug which would immecontaminate the new oil. Clean the area around the drain plug 12 opening and reinstall the plug. Tighten the plug securely with the wrench. If a torque

cles

materials before beginning the procedure

(see illustration). 4 In addition, you should have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy to

any

spills.

Access

mop up

to the underside of the

may cling

diately

wrench

is

available,

use

it

to tighten the plug.

the drain pan into position under

13

Move

be

the

oil filter.

bumper, hydraulic or scissors-type jack. 5 If this is your first oil change, get under

Use the filter wrench to loosen the oil fil(see illustration). Chain or metal band filter wrenches may distort the filter canister, but this is of no concern as the filter will be

the vehicle and familiarize yourself with the locations of the oil drain plug and the oil filter.

discarded anyway. 15 Completely unscrew the old

The engine and exhaust components will be warm during the actual work, so note how

careful

vehicle

is

greatly improved

if

the vehicle can

lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps or supported by jackstands. Warning: Do not work under a vehicle which is supported only by a

they are situated to avoid touching them when working under the vehicle. 6 Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. If the new oil or any tools are

1

ter

filter

- it's full

of

oil.

Empty the

oil

filter.

Be

inside the

into the drain pan.

Compare the old filter with the new one make sure they are the same type. 17 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt 16

to

and sludge from the area where the

oil filter

12.18 Lubricate the oil filter gasket with clean engine oil before installing the filter on the engine

Chapter

13.2

Push on the driveaxle boots check for cracks

(arrow)

engine. Wait a few minutes to allow the drain into the pan, then

check the

dipstick (see Section 4

if

level

necessary).

If

The manual transaxle dipstick

16.2

to

oil

oil

level is above the ADD mark, start the engine and allow the new oil to circulate. 24 Run the engine for only about a minute and then shut it off. Immediately look under the vehicle and check for leaks at the oil pan drain plug and around the oil filter. If either is leaking, tighten with a bit more force. 25 With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick and add more oil as necessary. 26 During the first few trips after an oil change, make it a point to check frequently for leaks and proper oil level. 27 The old oil drained from the engine cannot be reused in its present state and should be disposed of. Oil reclamation centers, auto repair shops and gas stations will normally accept the oil, which can be refined and used again. After the oil has cooled it can be

excessive sway around corners, body movement over rough roads and binding at some point as the steering wheel is turned. If you notice any of the above

mounts and hangers. Try to move the pipes, muffler and catalytic converter. If the components can come in contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system

ing

with

symptoms, the steerand suspension systems should be

checked.

5

Support the vehicle

3

placed under the frame rails. to be done, make sure the vehicle cannot

fall

off

the stands.

new mounts. Check the running condition

Check the front wheel hub nuts and make sure they are securely locked in place.

indication of engine state-of-tune.

If the pipe black and sooty or coated with white deposits, the engine is in need of a tune-up, including a thorough fuel system inspection

5

Working under the vehicle, check for loose bolts, broken or disconnected parts and deteriorated rubber bushings on all sus-

and adjustment.

pension and steering components. Look for grease or fluid leaking from the steering assembly. Check the power steering hoses and connections for leaks. 6 Have an assistant turn the steering wheel from side-to-side and check the steer-

16

ing

components If

for free

movement, chafing

the steering doesn't react with

movement of the steering wheel, determine where the slack is located.

Driveaxle boot check

15

of the

engine by inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust deposits here are an is

4

the

try to

Exhaust system check

Manual transaxle lubricant check

Refer to 1

A

illustrations 16.2

and

level

16.3

used for checking the lubrithe manual transaxles used on

dipstick

is

cant level in these models. With the transaxle cold (cool to the 2 touch) and the vehicle parked on a level surface, remove the dipstick from the filler tube located at the left rear side of the engine compartment, adjacent to the brake master cylinder (see illustration).

The level must be even with or slightly above the FULL COLD mark on the dipstick 3

illustration 13.2

The driveaxle boots are very important because they prevent dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the 1

constant velocity (CV) joints. 2 Inspect the boots for tears and cracks as well as loose clamps (see illustration). If

any evidence of cracks or leaking lubricant, they must be replaced as described in Chapter 8. is

With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, the inspection should be done with the vehicle on a hoist to permit unrestricted access. If a 1

not available, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Check the exhaust pipes and connec2 tions for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion hoist

is

and damage. Make sure

14

on jackstands Because of the

work

port to a disposal site.

there

on

the dipstick

and binding.

Refer to

manual transaxle

master cylinder

drained into a container (capped plastic jugs, topped bottles, milk cartons, etc.) for trans-

13

16.3 Follow the

lubricant checking procedure printed

located adjacent to the brake

is

to

on the the

1-17

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

Suspension and steering check

hangers are 3

At the

in

that

all

the transaxle

4

If

is

several pints low.

the level

is

add the specified

low,

lubricant through the

filler

tube, using a fun-

nel.

5

Insert the dipstick into the

seat

it

17

Tire rotation

filler

tube and

securely.

brackets and

good condition and

same

Make sure the level is at FULL COLD mark because lubricant may appear on the end of the dipstick even when (see illustration).

the

tight.

time, inspect the underside

body for holes, corrosion, open seams, which may allow exhaust gases to enter the interior. Seal all body openings with siliof the

Raise the front of the vehicle periodically and visually check the suspension and steering components for wear. 2 Be alert for excessive play in the steer1

ing

wheel before the

front

wheels

react.

etc.

body

cone

or

4

Rattles

putty.

and other noises can often be

traced to the exhaust system, especially the

Refer to 1

illustration 17.2

The

tires

fied intervals

noticed.

should be rotated at the speciand whenever uneven wear is

1-18

Chapter

1

Tune-up and routine maintenance

RF

LF

OO oo

RR

LR

RADIAL TIRE ROTATION

of the caliper to

17.2 Tire rotation diagram

Front wheel drive vehicles require a spe-

18.9 If the lining is bonded to the brake shoe, measure the lining thickness from the outer surface to the metal shoe, as shown here; if the lining is riveted to the shoe, measure from the lining outer surface to the rivet head

Look through an opening in the front check the brake pads the pad lining, which rubs against the

18.5

H-AJHAYNESI

can also be inspected by looking from the bottom of the caliper

disc,

be raised at time. This can be done on a hoist or by jacking up each corner and then lowering

age can result if the pads are not replaced soon after the wear indicators start squealing. 4 The disc brake calipers, which contain the pads, are now visible. There is an outer pad and an inner pad in each caliper. All pads should be inspected. Each caliper has one or two "windows" 5 to inspect the pads (see illustration). If the pad material has worn to about 1/8-inch thick or less, the pads should be replaced. If you're unsure about the exact thick6 ness of the remaining lining material, remove

the vehicle onto jackstands placed under the

the pads for further inspection or replace-

are found to be

in

ment

the brake drum.

Install

7

the vehicle to the ground, then tighten the lug

2

cial tire rotation

pattern (see illustration).

Refer to the information in Jacking and tow/ing at the front of this manual for the proper 3

procedures to follow when raising the vehicle and changing a tire. If the brakes are going to be checked, don't apply the parking brake as

Make

stated.

sure the

vent the vehicle from

The the same 4

frame

make

tires

rolling

are blocked to pre-

as

it's

raised.

entire vehicle should

rails.

Always use four jackstands and

sure the vehicle

is

safely supported.

5 After rotation, check and adjust the tire pressures as necessary and be sure to check the lug nut tightness.

18

Brake check

(refer to Chapter 9). Before installing the wheels, check for leakage and/or damage at the brake hoses and connections. Replace the hose or fittings as necessary, referring to Chapter 9. Check the condition of the brake rotor. 8 Look for score marks, deep scratches and overheated areas (they will appear blue or

and 18.9 system dust

illustrations 18.5

Warning:

Brake

asbestos, which

is

hazardous

to

contains your health.

DO NOT blow out with compressed air or inhale DO NOT use gasoline or solvents to it

dust. Use brake system cleaner or denatured alcohol only. Note: For detailed photographs of the brake system, refer to Chapter 9. 1

In

addition to the specified intervals, the

brakes should be inspected every time the wheels are removed or whenever a defect is suspected. Raise the vehicle and place It securely on jackstands. Remove the wheels (see Jacking and towing at the front of this manual, if necessary).

Disc brake pads Disc brakes are used on the all four wheels of this vehicle. Extensive rotor damage can occur if the pads are not replaced when needed. 3 The disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators which make a high-pitched squealing or cricket-like warning sound when the pads are worn. Caution: Expensive rotor dam-

2

breathe the dust. 1 Check the inside of the drum for cracks,

deep scratches and hard spots which appear as small discolored areas. If imperfections cannot be removed with fine emery cloth, the drum must be taken to a machine shop for resurfacing.

scores, will

After the inspection process,

1

good

if

all

parts

condition, reinstall

the wheel and lower

nuts to the torque listed

in this

Chapter's

Specifications.

Parking brake

rotor

Drum brake shoes

parking brake assembly is to park the vehicle on a steep hill with the parking brake set and the transaxle in Neutral. If the parking brake cannot prevent the vehicle from rolling, it needs service (see Chapter 9).

If damage or wear is noted, the can be removed and resurfaced by an automotive machine shop or replaced with a new one. Refer to Chapter 9 for more detailed inspection and repair procedures.

it.

remove the

12 Clean the inside of the drum with brake system cleaner. Again, be careful not to

1 The parking brake is operated by a foot pedal and locks the rear brake system. The easiest, and perhaps most obvious, method of periodically checking the operation of the

discolored).

Refer to

nections for signs of leakage.

9 Remove the brake drum and note the thickness of the lining material on brake shoes (see illustration). If the material has worn away to within 1/16-inch of the recessed rivets or metal backing, the shoes should be replaced. If the linings look worn, but you are unable to determine their exact

compare them with a new set at an auto parts store. The shoes should also be replaced if they are cracked, glazed (shiny surface) or contaminated with brake fluid. 1 Check to see that all the brake assembly springs are connected and in good condition. 11 Check the brake components for signs of fluid leakage. With your finger, carefully pry back the rubber cups on the wheel cylinder located at the top of the brake shoes. Any leakage is an indication that the wheel cylinders should be overhauled immediately (see Chapter 9). Also check the hoses and con-

thickness,

Fuel system check

19

Warning: Gasoline

is

extremely flammable, so

take extra precautions

when you work on any smoke or allow

part of the fuel system. Don't

open flames or bare and don't work

ral

light

bulbs near the work

a garage where a natugas-type appliance (such as a water heater

area,

in

or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of being

any fuel on soap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.

exposed

to fuel, and,

your skin, rinse

it

if

you

spill

off immediately with

J

Chapter

20.2a

Remove the wingnui

.

20.2b ...

.

lift

The

fuel

system

is

most

easily

com-

If

the smell of gasoline

is

sun,

the

system

should

Air filter

noticed while

been

in

the

be thoroughly

V6 engine

necessary.

2.5

2

hoses, crimped lines and other damage. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carethe way. Repair or

sections as necessary.

filter

air filter

element out

.

.

liter

V6, 3800 V6, 3100

2.3

liter

four-cylinder (Quad-4)

Refer to

illustrations

The

5

air

20.5a and 20.5b

cleaner housing

is

located on the

side of the engine compartment.

(see illustrations).

20.2b and 20.2c

illustrations 20.2a,

The

liter

located inside the air cleaner housing located at the front of the engine, near the battery. Remove the wing nut, lift off the cover and spark arrester (if air filter is

equipped), then

the

lift

filter

out (see illustra-

tions).

V6 engine

3.1 liter

3

Detach the

clips,

off,

lift

the

then remove the

air

filter

from the housing.

Non-turbocharged models 4

Remove

the bolts,

cleaner housing

off,

then

models While the

6

throttle

.

.

.

then

lift

remove the

housing cover

body

is off,

down

be

into the

or air cleaner assembly.

Wipe out the

7

inside of the air cleaner housing with a clean rag. 8 Except on TBI models with a PCV filter, place the new filter in the air cleaner housing. Make sure it seats properiy in the bottom of Install

the top plate or cover.

lift lift

the upper

the

filter

air

element

PCV filter replacement Refer to

illustrations

9

Some

PCV

filter.

the side of the

removed

up the cover and element

filter

20.9 and 20. 10

2.5L models are equipped with a It is usually located in a holder in filter

housing and can be

after disconnecting the

removing the

20.5b

filter

careful not to drop anything

remove the PCV

breather from the valve cover and

cleaner housing

All

the housing.

Turbocharged models

out.

20.5a Remove the screws and separate the cover from the air cleaner housing

V6 and

3.4

Loosen or remove the nuts or retainer clips, the top cover off and withdraw the filter

four-cylinder and 2.8

liter

Refer to

With the vehicle raised, inspect the gas filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a njbber filler neck will leak due to loose clamps or deteriorated rubber, problems a home mechanic can usually rectify. Warning: Do not, under any circumstances, try to repair a fuel tank yourself (except rubber components). A welding torch or any open flame can easily cause the fuel vapors to explode if the proper precautions are not taken. 5 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated

damaged

the

pull

lift

tank and

replace

and

.

of the housing

replacement

filter

4

all

.

left (driver's)

new one

inspecting them

.

engines

Air

fully

20.2c

.

1 At the specified intervals, the air filter should be replaced with a new one. The filter should be inspected between changes.

inspected immediately. Remove the gas tank cap and check for 3 damage, corrosion and an unbroken sealing imprint on the gasket. Replace the cap with a if

.

and PCV replacement

20

ponents underneath the vehicle are readily visible and accessible. driving or after the vehicle has

frf

checked

with the vehicle raised on a hoist so the

2

cover and spark equipped)

off the

arrester 1

1-19

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

clip

hose and

(see illustration).

Remove the clip and wittidraw the PCV filter housing from the air cleaner

20.9

1-20

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

ACCEPTABLE

Cracks Running Across "V" Portions of Belt

Missing Two or More Adjacent Ribs 1/2" or longer

PCV filter element

20.10 Pull the

UNACCEPTABLE

out of

the holder

Pull the

1

PCV

filter

out of the holder (see

Cracks Running

Illustration).

11

Install

attach

it

the

PCV

filter in

the holder and

Parallel

to "V" Portions of Belt

to the air cleaner housing. Install the

air filter.

22.2 Small cracks

in the underside of a serpentine belt are acceptable cracks, or missing pieces are cause for replacement

21

Body

Throttle

(2.5L at

the front of the engine and plays an impor-

tant role 1 The TBI throttle body is attached to the top of the intake manifold by two bolts. They can sometinnes work loose from vibration and temperature changes during normal engine

vacuum you suspect a vacuum

in

the overall operation of the engine

components. Due to its function and makeup, the belt is prone to wear and should be periodically inspected. The

and

its

material

serpentine belt drives the alternator, power

operation and cause a

leak.

steering

2

leak exists at

tioning compressor.

the bottom of the throttle body, use a rubber hose as a stethoscope. Start the engine and

2

place one end of the hose next to your ear as you probe around the base of the throttle body with the other end. You will hear a hissing sound if a leak exists (be careful of hot and moving engine components). 3 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see

sary)

Chapter 4). 4 Locate the throttle body mounting bolts. Decide what special tools or adapters will be necessary, if any, to tighten them. Tighten the bolts securely and evenly. 5 Do not overtighten them, as the manifold threads could

6 a

If,

strip.

leak

still

exists, the throttle

must be removed and a new gasket See Chapter 4 for more information. 7 the

body

installed.

After tightening the fasteners, reinstall air

cleaner and return

all

hoses to

their

original positions.

22 Drivebelt and tensioner check and replacement

Drivebelt A

With the engine

off,

,

air-condi-

open the hood and

necesto move along the belt checking for

use your fingers (and a

flashlight,

if

cracks and separation of the belt plies. Also check for fraying and glazing, which gives the belt a shiny appearance (see illustration). Both sides of the belt should be inspected,

which means you will have to twist the belt to check the underside. Check the ribs on the underside of the 3 belt. They should all be the same depth, with

none

of the surface uneven.

The tension of the belt the tensioner assembly and 4

single serpentine drivebelt

will

give you

is left in

is

maintained by

isn't

adjustable.

is

located

some

indication of

how much

life

the belt (see illustration). The belt

should be checked at the mileage interval specified in the maintenance schedule at the front of this Chapter.

able

damage

or

If

the belt

shows

notice-

wear during these checks,

it

should be replaced. To replace the belt on 3.1 L and 3.8L 5 engines, rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise to release belt tension (see illustration). To replace the belt on 3.4L engines, rotate the tensioner clockwise to release belt tension. Note the routing of the belt before

Note: These models have a on the engine to help during drivebelt installation. If the decal is

removing

Refer to illustrations 22.2. 22.4, 22.5 and 22.9 1

pump, water pump and

missing,

make

a sketch.

6 Remove the belt from the auxiliary components and slowly release the tensioner. 7 Route the new belt over the various pulleys,

again rotating the tensioner to allow the

belt to

be

installed,

then release the belt ten-

sioner.

Tensioner 8 Remove the engine drivebelt as described above in Steps 5 and 6. 3.1

L and

Refer to

9

On

3.41

engines

illustration

3.IL

22.9

and 3.4L engines, simply remove

the tensioner retaining bolt (see illustration)

and detach the tensioner assembly from the Note: It may be necessary to detach and position the coolant recovery reservoir aside to allow access to front of the engine.

the tensioner retaining bolt. Installation

is

the

reverse of the removal procedure.

Looking at the tension scale on the tensioner

after the bolts are properly tightened,

vacuum

lengthwise

Injection (TBI)

mounting bolt torque check engine only)

If

-

it.

drivebelt routing decal

3.8L engine If you're removing the tensioner from a 3.8L engine, wait until the engine has cooled completely before beginning the job. 10 Drain the engine coolant (see Section 27). 1 Move a large container under the front of the engine to catch the coolant and remove the heater hose adapters with the heater hoses attached from the drivebelt tensioner

Warning:

assembly (not all models). 12 Detach the drivebelt tensioner retaining bolts and remove the tensioner assembly from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 13 Refill the cooling system (see Section 27), start the

engine and check for leaks.

Chapter

1

22.4 The drivebelt tensioner automatically keeps proper tension on the drivebelt, but does have limits - the indicator mark should remain in the nominal range, between the "INSTALL" and "REPLACE BELT" marks 1

23

Seat belt check

1

Check the seat

plates

for

buckles, latch

obvious

damage

and signs of wear. 2 See if the seat belt reminder light comes on when the key is turned to the Run or Start position. A chime should also sound. The seat belts are designed to lock up 3 during a sudden stop or impact, yet allow free movement during normal driving. Make sure the retractors return the belt against your chest while driving and rewind the belt fully

when

the buckle

is

Starter safety switch

check

Warning: During the following checks there's a chance the vehicle could lunge forward, possibly causing damage or injuries. Allow plenty of room around the vehicle, apply the parking brake and hold down the regular brake pedal during the checks.

^^^^1^^

22.9

Remove

the

retaining bolt

(arrow) located at the center of the

tensioner assembly

into the

transaxle equipped vehi-

engine in each gear. The engine should crank only in Park or Neutral. 2 If equipped with a manual transaxle, place the shift lever in Neutral and push the clutch pedal down about halfway. The engine should crank only with the clutch pedal fully

depressed.

Make sure the steering column lock allows the key to go into the Lock position only when the shift lever is in Park (automatic 3

transaxle) or Reverse (manual transaxle).

4

The

ignition

key should

come

out only

in

the Lock position.

unlatched.

4 If any of the above checks reveal problems with the seat belt system, replace parts as necessary.

24

On automatic

On some models

it will be necessary to insert a breaker bar notch on the tensioner arm, on other models it will be necessary to use a box end wrench on the pulley bolt to rotate the tensioner

22.5

cles, try to start the

belts,

and guide loops

1-21

Tune-up and routine maintenance

Spare

1

Periodically checking the security

tire

condition of the spare

Seatback latch check

1

It's

and help

normal vehicle operation. Following the instructions in your owner's manual or under Jacking and towing near the front of this manual, remove the spare tire and jack. Using a reliable air pressure gauge, check 3 the pressure in the spare tire. It should be kept ing

2

4 5

Make

marked on the

tire

sidewall.

sure the jack operates freely and

components are undamaged.

When

finished,

hold the jack and

Grasping the top of the seat, attempt to It should tilt only when the latch on the rear of the seat is pulled up. Note that there is a certain amount of free play built into

27

2

will

you with the procedures necesemergency tire replacement and also ensure that no components work loose dur-

seatback latch mechanism on two-door models to prevent the seatback from moving forward during a sudden stop or an accident. tilt it

and jack

sary for

all

important to periodically check the

tire

to familiarize

at the pressure

25

and jack check

26

Fuel

filter

make sure

tire

securely

the wing nuts

in

place.

replacement

forward.

the latch mechanism.

When 3 the seatback should latch securely.

returned to the upright position,

Refer to

illustration

27.3

is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extin-

Warning: Gasoline

guisher on hand. 1 Relieve the fuel system p essure (see Chapter 4). 2 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

1-22

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

"m

^P

/:

/ filter

27.3

Use a back-up wrench on the

filter

side of the

fitting;

Filter

quick-connect fittings.) Remove the filter from the clip. 5 Snap the new filter securely into the clip. 6 Make sure the arrow on the filter points toward the engine. 7 Using new 0-rings, reattach the fuel lines to the filter. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the 0-rings to ease reassembly.

Automatic transaxle

fluid

and

change

8

^

illustration 28.

Remove

1

should

ter)

and

and a new

gasket and sealant. Drain the fluid from the transaxle pan, 9 clean the pan with solvent and dry it with compressed air. Be careful not to lose the

Chap-

Install

1

newspapers and clean

rags.

Raise and support the vehicle on jack-

remove the

5

With a drain pan

front

and side transaxle pan mounting bolts. Loosen the rear pan bolts one turn. Carefully pry the transaxle pan loose

7

filter

from the mount inside

a

new

filter

and

seal (see illustra-

cool before performing

Make sure the gasket surface on the is clean, then install a new gas-

transaxle pan

Put the pan in place against the transaxle and install the bolts. Note: If the bolts are equipped with captive crush washers, they should be replaced. Working around the pan, ket.

each bolt a little at a time until the final torque figure is reached. Lower the vehicle and add the specified 1 amount of automatic transmission fluid tighten

through the filler tube (see Section 6). 14 With the shift lever in Park and the parking brake set, run the engine at a fast idle, but don't race it. 1 Move the shift lever through each gear to Park.

the

Is fully

Check the fluid warmed up.

Check under the first

few

Warning: Make sure the engine

level

when

is

completely

procedure. Caution: Never mix green-colored ethylene glycol anti-freeze and orange-colored "DEXthis

COOL" silicate-free coolant because doing so will

destroy the efficiency of the

coolant which

is

designed

"DEX-COOL"

to last for

100,000

miles or five years. Periodically, the cooling system should 1 be drained, flushed and refilled to replenish the antifreeze mixture and prevent formation of rust and corrosion, which can impair the performance of the cooling system and cause engine damage. 2 At the same time the cooling system is serviced, all hoses and the radiator cap should be inspected and replaced if defective

(see Section

3

vehicle for leaks during

refilling)

9). is a corrosive and poibe careful not to spill any of

Since antifreeze

sonous

solution,

trips.

29

Manual transaxle lubricant change

Refer to

illustration

29.3

Raise the vehicle and support

It

securely

on jackstands. 2 Move a drain pan, rags, newspapers and wrenches under the transaxle. 3 Remove the transaxle drain plug and allow the lubricant to drain into the pan (see illustration).

stands.

6

the

tion).

12

and

(draining, flushing

Remove

the transaxle.

1

filter.

Other tools necessary for this job include jackstands to support the vehicle in a raised position, a drain pan capable of holding sev4

Cooling system servicing

30

magnet. 1

vehicle.

Recommended

fluids at the front of this

3

eral quarts,

traces of the old

of specified lubricant.

Check the lubricant as described in Section 16. Add more lubricant as necessary. level

all

amount

Lower the

be

specified transaxle fluid (see lubricants

intervals,

with the correct

the transaxle to remove

1

the drained and replaced. Since the fluid will remain hot long after driving, perform this procedure only after everything has cooled down completely. 2 Before beginning work, purchase the fluid

the remaining bolts, pan and

6

and back

At the specified time

1

transaxle

m r

gasket. Carefully clean the gasket surface of

the engine

Refer to

^^\

Pan gasket

fuel

Unscrew the fuel line-to-fuel filter fittings 3 (see illustration). Use a back-up wrench to keep from twisting the line. 4 If the car is equipped with plastic "quick-connect" fittings, squeeze the tabs on the fitting and pull it apart. If the car is equipped with metal quick-connect fittings, pull back the rubber boot and twist the fitting one-quarter turn to loosen any dirt, then, if compressed air is available, blow the dirt away from the connection. Use a special fuel line separator tool to disconnect the fitting. (See Chapter 4 for more information on the

filter

Seal

/ r

use a flare-nut

wrench to unscrew the outer nut

28

1

^|L

J{ w J

installation details

2 3

.^^

©

Mk ^^^L

28.11 Automatic

transaxle

k

in

place,

with a screwdriver, allowing the fluid to drain.

4

After the lubricant has drained

pletely,

reinstall

com-

the plug and tighten

it

securely.

5

Remove

the transaxle dipstick. Using a fill the transaxle

hand pump, syringe or funnel,

29.3 (arrow)

The manual transaxle drain plug Is located on the side of the case

Chapter

31.1

The PCV valve (arrow) on most engines

is

located

in

the

31.5

The PCV valve on 1995 and

valve cover

the coolant mixture on the vehicle's paint or

your skin.

this

If

happens, rinse

it

off

immedi-

ately with plenty of clean water. Consult local

authorities

about the recycling of antifreeze

before draining the cooling system.

In

many

areas, reclamation centers have been set up

to

automobile

collect

oil

and

drained

antifreeze/water mixtures, rather than allowing

4

them

to

be added to the sewage system.

With the engine cold, remove the radia-

tor cap.

5

On

2.5

liter

four-cylinder

engines,

it (see Chapand reverse flush it. This involves inserting the hose in the bottom radiator outlet to allow the water to run against the normal flow, draining through the top. A radiator repair shop should be consulted if further

cleaning or repair

is necessary. the coolant is regularly drained and the system refilled with the correct antifreeze/water mixture, there should be no need to use chemical cleaners or descalers. 18 To refill the system, reconnect all hoses

17

When

and the coolant

cylinder).

cooling system through the thermostat hous-

the

Quad-4 and on other Ve engines,

open the vent plugs in the thermostat housing and (if equipped) bypass pipe. 10 If accessible, remove the engine block drains. Note: On 3800 engines it will be necessary to remove the knock sensors from each side of the engine block to allow the block to drain. 11 On the 3.4L engine, remove the inlet hose at the left side of the engine oil cooler. 12 Move a large container under the radiator to catch the coolant as

it's

drained.

Drain the radiator by removing (or opening) the plug at the bottom. If the plug is corroded and can't be turned easily, or if the

13

19 plug,

20

reservoir.

Reinstall (or close) the radiator drain

and

reinstall

fill

antifreeze

and water (see Section

base of the

filler

On

2.5

liter

the

neck, tighten the vent plugs

securely but leave the radiator cap 21

4) to

fill

the

reaches the base of the neck and install the cap. Fill the thermostat housing to one half inch from the top and install the thermostat and cap. 22 On all models add more coolant to the reservoir until it reaches the lower mark. 23 On 3.4L, 3100 and 3800 V6 engines, install the radiator cap and close all the air ing until the level radiator

filler

24

On

other V6 engines and on the

Quad

4,

engine and run it until normal operating temperature is reached. With the engine idling, add additional coolant to the radiator start the

and the

reservoir. Install the radiator

and

reservoir caps.

out with clean water.

mal operating temperature. 26 On 3.4L, 3100 and 3800 V6 engines, after flushing the system add two engine coolant supplement sealant pellets when

Place a garden hose in the radiator filler neck and flush the system until the water runs clear at

16

In

all

drain points.

severe cases of contamination or

refilling.

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation

replacement

Check engines (except 1995 and 3800 engines)

All

Refer to

cover (see

later

31.1

illustration

On most of manual the PCV 1

the engines covered by this valve

is

illustration).

located

in

the valve

On

3.4L engines the the intake manifold

valve is located in behind the throttle body assembly. With the engine idling at normal operat2 ing temperature, pull the valve (with hose attached) out of the rubber grommet in the

just

plenum or valve cover.

Place your finger over the end of the valve. If there is no vacuum at the valve, check for a plugged hose, manifold port, or the valve itself. Replace any plugged or dete3

riorated hoses.

4

Turn

off

the engine and shake the

valve, listening for a rattle. rattle,

replace

it

with a

new

5

illustration

one.

in

later)

31.5

On 3800 engines

located

PCV

the valve doesn't

If

3800 engine (1995 and Refer to

bleeds.

Keep a close watch on the coolant level 25 and the cooling system hoses during the first few miles of driving. Tighten the hose clamps and/or add more coolant as necessary. The coolant level should be a little above the HOT mark on the reservoir with the engine at nor-

15

located at

(PCV) valve check and

intake

off.

four-cylinder engines,

31

PCV

the engine block drains.

On V6 and Quad-4 models, the radiawith the recommended mixture of

equipped with a plug, disconnect the lower radiator hose to allow the coolant to drain. Be careful not to get antifreeze on your skin or in your eyes. Disconnect the hose from the coolant 14 reservoir and remove the reservoir. Flush it radiator isn't

Is

MAP

clogging of the radiator, remove

ter 3)

tor

On

3800 engines

later

the front of the intake manifold below the sensor (arrow)

remove the thermostat. On the 3800 V6, open the air bleed 6 vents on the thermostat housing. 7 On the 3100 V6, open the air bleed vents on the thermostat housing and coolant pump. On the 3.4L V6, open the air bleed vents 8 on the thermostat housing and the heater coolant inlet pipe (near the brake master 9

1-23

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

the

PCV

valve

the intake manifold under the

is

MAP

at the front (passenger side) of the engine (see illustration). To check the valve it must first be 6 removed (see Step 12). Then shake the PCV valve, listening for a rattle. If the valve doesn't rattle, replace it with a new one.

sensor

Replacement engines (except 1995 and 3800 engines)

All

7

To replace the

valve, pL-H

it

later

out of the

end of the hose, noting its "siaied position and direction. 8 When purchasing a replacement PCV '

1-24

Chapter

Tune-up and routine maintenance

1

^W liv^

^^4k\

K KifMil i\

M^

1

L! \-'^^sd 1 ^^^^2|Ai 31.13 Disconnect the electrical connector and unclip the MAP sensor from the PCV valve access cover

make

your particular vehicle, model year and engine size. Compare the old valve with the new one to make sure they valve,

sure

it's

for

are the same.

Push the valve

9

until it's

into the

end

of the

hose

seated.

grommet for damage a new one if necessary.

Inspect the njbber

1

and replace it with 1 Push the PCV valve and hose securely into position.

3800 engine (1995 and Refer to

illustration

later)

31.13,31. 14 and 31. 15

12 Detach the fuel injector cover (see Chapter 4). 13 Disconnect the electrical connector from the MAP sensor and unclip the MAP sensor from the PCV valve access cover (see

Press downward on the PCV valve access cover and rotate it counterclockwise to remove it (see illustration). On Regal 14

models with a supercharger, the PCV valve is under a plate at the top of the supercharger housing, near the throttle body.

PCV

Remove

the

and cover and take out the spring, the valve and the 0-ring. Use a new 0-ring

when replacing the PCV valve. 15 To replace the valve, pull

the

PCV

valve

and 0-ring assembly from the intake manifold noting its installed position and direction (see illustration).

16

When

purchasing a replacement PCV sure it's for your particular vehimodel year and engine size. Compare the

valve, cle,

make

old valve with the

new one

to

make

sure they

are the same.

17

Installation of the valve

is

the reverse of

removal.

32

Evaporative emissions control

system check 1

The function

from the gas tank and fuel system, store them in a charcoal canister and then burn them during normal engine operation. The most common symptom of a fault in 2 the evaporative emissions system is a strong fuel odor in the engine compartment. If a fuel odor is detected, inspect the charcoal canister, located at the front of the engine compartment. Check the canister and all hoses for damage and deterioration. 3 The evaporative emissions control system is explained in more detail in Chapter 6.

33

of the evaporative emis-

sions control system

is

to

draw

fuel

vapors

Remove the PCV valve and the 0-ring from the intake manifold

31.15

spark plug replacement include a spark plug socket which fits onto a ratchet (spark plug sockets are padded inside to prevent dam-

on the new and a gap gauge to check and adjust the gaps on the new

age

to the porcelain insulators

plugs), various extensions

plugs (see illustration).

A

special plug wire

removal tool is available for separating the wire boots from the spark plugs, and is a good idea on these models because the boots fit very tightly. On the 3800 V6 engine, a special tool is required to remove the spark

Spark plug replacement

Refer to

illustration).

bolt

31.14 Press down on the PCV valve access cover, rotate it counterclockwise then pull up to remove it (be sure to check the 0-ring and replace it if necessary)

illustrations 33.2, 33.5a, 33.5b,

33.6a, 33.6b, 33.6c, 33.6d, 33.8

Note:

On many V6

engines,

it

and 33.10 be neces-

will

sary to rotate the engine for access to the rear

spark plugs, as outlined 1

The

in

Section 34.

spari< plugs are located

on the

front

engine on 2.2L and 2.5 liter four-cylinder models. The spark plugs on Quad-4 engines are located under a cover on the top of the engine, in the valley between the camshaft covers. On 3.4L V6 engines, the spark plugs are located in the valleys between the camshafts, three on each cylinder head. On other V6 engines, three plugs (radiator) side of the

33.2 Tools required for changing spark plugs 1

are located at the front and three at the rear (firewall)

side of the engine. With the excep-

tion of the 3.4L

2

and 3800 V6 engines, the

engine must be rotated forward to gain access to rear spark plugs (see Section 34). Note 1: On 3.4L engines the upper intake manifold must be removed first to allow access to the right side (rear) spark plugs or plug wires. See Chapter 4 for the upper intake plenum removal procedure. Note 2: On 1996 and later 3800 engines the acoustic engine cover must be removed first to access the right side (rear) spark plugs or plug wires (see Chapter 2F). 2 In most cases, the tools necessary for

Spark plug socket

-

This will have

special padding inside to protect the

3 4

spark plug's porcelain insulator Torque wrench - Although not mandatory, using this tool is the best way to ensure the plugs are tightened properly Ratchet - Standard hand tool to fit the spark plug socket

Depending on model and may need special extensions and universal joints to reach one or more of the plugs Spark plug gap gauge - This gauge for checking the gap comes in a variety of styles. Make sure the gap for your engine is included Extension

-

accessories, you

5

Chapter

33.5a Spark plug manufacturers

recommend using a wire-type gauge when checlably damaged. If so, the cylinder head will have to be removed for additional repair operations. 1 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release

the air pressure. Note: If a rope was used instead of air pressure, turn the crankshaft slightly in the direction opposite normal rotation.

12 Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the end for eccentric movement, which would indicate the valve

stem

is

bent.

13 Move the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it doesn't bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the

head 14

will have to be removed for repair. Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to

retain the valve in the

closed position, then

remove the tape or njbber band from the valve stem. If a rope was used instead of air pressure, rotate the crankshaft

in

the normal direc-

tion of rotation until slight resistance is 1

felt.

Lubricate the valve stem with engine

oil

Chapter 2 Part B 2.5

2B-5

four-cylinder engine

liter

material off the intake manifold and head gasket mating surfaces.

Installation 12 Installation sure to use a

is

the reverse of removal.

Be

new

gasket. Tighten the nuts/bolts to the torque listed in this Chap-

ter's Specifications, following the correct

sequence (see 13

Add

for leaks

7

illustration 6.10a

and

coolant, run the engine

6.10b).

and check

and proper operation.

Exhaust manifold

-

removal and

installation

Refer to

and

install

Intake

16

a

new

and exhaust

Install

valve guide seal. Note: valve seals are different.

the spring

position over the

in

valve.

17 Install the valve spring retainer. Compress the valve spring and carefully install the keepers in the groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each l'

Refer to

illustrations 9.

7,

9.10,9.11 and

9.

14

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 2 Remove the timing chain and sprockets 1

9.7

The power

steering

pump

must be removed with

drive pulley

a puller

(^W.a#5^'iidM^K

w

.^^r

lil/'JW

(see Section 7). 3 Remove the timing chain housing-tocamshaft housing bolts (see Section 8). 4 Remove the ignition coil and module assembly (see Chapter 5).

intake (front) 5

Disconnect the

idle

speed power

steer-

Chapter 2 Part C

9.10 Oil pressure sending unit mounting hole

bracket bolts

(1)

2.3

liter

and engine

lifting

2C-9

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

9.11

Gently

lift

the camshaft housing off the cylinder head and it over so the lifters won't fall out

turn

(2)

Check the camshaft lobe surfaces and the bore surfaces (arrows) of the lifters for wear

9.17a 9.14

Remove the

ing pressure switch. Remove the power steering 6 brackets (see Chapter 10).

7

Remove

the

power

steering

oil

seal (arrow) from the intake camshaft

the cylinder head (see illustration).

pump and pump

drive

power must be removed

pulley (see illustration). Caution: 77ie

steering

pump

drive pulley

following this procedure or

damage

to the

any other removal procedure is used, a new pulley must be installed. 8 Remove the oil/air separator (PCV System) as an assembly, with the hoses attached (see Chapter 6). Remove the fuel rail from the cylinder 9 head and set it aside (see Chapter 4).

pulley

will result. If

Exhaust

(rear)

with lacquer thinner or acetone to

any traces of 14

Remove

camshaft (see 15

Remove

the the

lifters

clean engine

illustration).

Inspection

head

tration 9.28). Leave the bolts

in

oil

in

reverse (see illus-

two cover-to-housing

place temporarily.

Lift

the housing off

by

Visually inspect the

remove

and discard it. and store them

valve-side up,

submerged

in

in

oil.

9. 1 7a, 9. 1 7b, 9.

13

and

9.19 1

Refer to Chapter

2, Part

G, for camshaft

inspection procedures, but use this Chapter's

Do not attempt to salvage camshafts. Whenever a camshaft is replaced, Specifications.

the

lifters for wear, score marks and discoloration from overheating (see illustrations).

17

galling,

seal from the intake

lifters

Refer to illustrations

bolts in 1/4-turn increments, following

the tightening sequence

actuated

lifters

order so they can be reinstalled in their original locations. To minimize lifter bleed-down, store the

Loosen the camshaft housing-to-cylinder

the well.

illustration)

Unplug the oil pressure sending unit wire and unbolt the engine lifting bracket (see

1

all

camshaft as

oil.

10

Intake and exhaust

replace

12 Remove the two camshaft cover-tohousing bolts. Push the cover off the housing by threading four of the housing-to-head bolts into the tapped holes in the cover. Carefully lift the camshaft out of the housing. 13 Remove all traces of old gasket material from the mating surfaces and clean them

9.17b Check the valve-side of the lifters too

2C-10

9.18

Chapter 2 Part

C

2.3

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

liter

Use a telescoping gauge and micrometer to measure the lifter

bores

.

measure the lifters with a micrometer - subtract diameter from the corresponding bore diameter to obtain the lifter-to-bore clearances

9.19 ... then

each

.

lifter

Front of

engine

gP—

9.24 The dowel pins (arrows]

should be at the top (12 o'clock 141

position)

r

'i

r •8 1 Measure each lifter bore inside diameter and record the results (see illustration). 19 Measure each lifter outside diameter and record the results (see illustration). 20 Subtract the lifter outside diameter from the corresponding bore inside diameter to determine the clearance. Compare the results to this Chapter's Specifications and

replace parts as necessary.

Installation Refer to

illustrations 9.24,

9.28 and 9.29

Using a new gasket, position the camshaft housing on the cylinder head and 21

temporarily hold

it

in

place with one

bolt.

Coat the camshaft journals and lobes and the lifters with Camshaft and Lifter Prelube or equivalent and install them in their 22

On

23 the

lip

the intake camshaft only, lubricate

of the

oil

seal,

then position the seal on

the camshaft joumal with the spring side facing

Install

in

the housing with

UP

(12 o'clock posi-

the camshaft

the sprocket dowel pin

(see illustration). Position the cover on the housing, holding it in place with the two tion)

as described above. Apply Pipe Sealant or equivalent to the

bolts,

25

bolts.

26

Install

new housing

Each seal

seals.

is

pre-fit.

the camshaft cover and bolts oil seal (intake side only). Be sure the seal is installed to the depth of 0.020 inch (0.50 mm) into the cover and cylinder head. 28 Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown (see illustration) to the torque and angle of

27

^ ^

^.

Exhaust

k

—

^

Intake

Install

[

while positioning the

38016-28-9.28

HAYNES

9.28 Camshaft housing-to-cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

rotation listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

29

Install

the power steering

pump

pulley

with a special tool (see illustration).

30

Install

the remaining parts

in

the reverse

order of removal. 31

Change

the

oil

and

filter

(see Chapter

1).

new lifters fiave been installed or tfie lifters bled down while the engine was disassembled, excessive lifter noise may be expeIf

rienced after startup

-

this is

normal.

following procedure to purge the

in.

24

threads of the camshaft housing and cover

Note:

original locations.

^1

a)

Start the engine

and allow

it

Use

lifters

to

the

of air:

warm up

for five minutes. b)

Increase engine speed to 2000 the

lifter

noise

Is

rpm

until

gone.

32 Road test the vehicle and check for and coolant leaks.

power steering pump drive must be pressed on with a

9.29 The oil

pulley

special tool

Chapter 2 Part

10.5 This

is

C

2.3

liter

2C-11

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

what

the air hose

adapter that threads into the spark plug hole looks like - they're

commonly available from

auto parts stores

10.18 Apply a small dab of grease to each keeper before installation to hold it in

the valve faces or seats are in poor condition, leaks may prevent air pressure from retaining the valves - in this

the

10

Valve springs, retainers and seals -

replacement

Refer to

illustrations 10.5

and

10.

18

Note: Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder head. Two special tools and a compressed air source are normally required to perform this operation, so read through this Section carefully and rent or buy the tools before beginning the job. If com-

pressed air isn 't available, a length of nylon rope can be used to keep the valves from falling into 1

the cylinder during this procedure.

Remove

the spark plug from the cylinder

which has the defective

part.

Due

to the

design of this engine, the intake and exhaust

camshaft housings can be removed separately to service their respective components. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of the spark plugs and both camshaft housings should be removed. Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the igni2 assembly. 3 Remove the camshaft(s), lifters and housing(s) as described in Section 9. 4 Turn the crankshaft until the piston in the affected cylinder is at top dead center on

tion coil

the compression stroke (refer to Chapter 2, Part G, for instructions). If you're replacing all

stem seals, begin with cylinder number one and work on the valves for one cylinder at a time. Move from cylinder-tocylinder following the firing order sequence of the valve

(see this Chapter's Specifications). 5

Thread an adapter

into the

spark plug

hole (see illustration) and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Note:

Many

cylinder compression

a screw-in fitting that may work with your air hose quick-disconnect fitting. 6 Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Warning: The piston may be forced down by compressed air, causing the crankshaft to

gauges

utilize

wrench used when posithe number one piston at TDC is still

turn suddenly.

tioning

If

the

attached to the bolt

in

the crankshaft nose,

it

could cause damage or injury when the crankshaft moves. The valves should be held in place by 7

air

pressure,

if

case a "valve job" is needed. 8 If you don't have access to compressed air, an alternative method can be used. Position the piston at a point just before TDC on the compression stroke, then feed a long piece of nylon rope through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chamber. Be sure to leave the end of the rope hanging out of the engine so it can be removed easily. Use a large ratchet and socket to rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise)

9

Stuff

until slight

shop rags

resistance

is felt.

into the cylinder

head

holes adjacent to the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine, then

use a valve spring compressor to

compress

Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. 10 Remove the retainer and valve spring, then remove the valve guide seal and rotator. Note: If air pressure fails to hold the valve in the closed position during this operation, the valve face or seat is probably damaged. If so, the cylinder head will have to be removed for

the spring.

place on the valve stem until the spring is released

and 17

new guide

a

install

seal.

the spring

Install

in

position over the

valve.

18 Install the valve spring retainer. Compress the valve spring and carefully install the keepers in the groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in

place

If

necessary (see illustration).

Remove the pressure from the spring and make sure the keepers are seated.

tool

Disconnect the air hose and remove the 19 adapter from the spark plug hole. If a rope was used in place of air pressure, pull it out of the cylinder.

9 and install the and housing(s). the spark plug(s) and coil assem-

Refer to

20

camshaft(s),

21

Install

Section

lifters

bly.

22 oil

Start and run the engine, then check for leaks and unusual sounds coming from

the camshaft housings.

11

Cylinder head

-

removal and

additional repair operations.

Wrap a rubber band

1

top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Note: If a rope was used instead of air pressure, turn the crankshaft slightly in a counterclockwise direction (opposite

normal

rotation).

Inspect the valve stem for damage. 12 Rotate the valve in the guide and check the end for eccentric movement, which would indicate the valve

stem

is

bent.

Move the valve up-and-down in the 13 guide and make sure it doesn't bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the head 14

will have to be removed for repair. Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to

retain the valve in the closed position, then

remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. If a rope was used instead of air pressure, rotate the crankshaft

installation

or tape around the

in

the normal direc-

tion of rotation until slight resistance is

Removal Disconnect the negative cable from the Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting 1

battery.

the battery.

2

Refer to Section 3 and remove the

intake manifold.

The cooling system must be

drained to prevent coolant from getting into internal areas of the engine when the head Is

removed. Refer to Section 4 and detach the 3 exhaust manifold. 4 Remove the camshafts and housings as described

in

Section

9.

the

Make a holder for new head gasket,

and

bolt pattern

5

the head bolts. Using outline the cylinders

on a piece of cardboard. Be

felt.

1

Reinstall the valve rotator.

16

Lubricate the valve stem with engine

sure to indicate the front of the engine for reference. Punch holes at the bolt locations oil

(see illustration 8.11

in

Part B).

2C-12

11.10

Chapter 2 Part

Remove

C

2.3

liter

the old gasket and clean

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

11.15 Cylinder head

boK TIGHTENING sequence

the head thoroughly

6

Loosen the head bolts

in

1/4-turn incre-

ments until they can be removed by hand. Work from bolt-to-bolt in a pattern that's the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 11.15). Store the bolts

in

the card12.11

board holder as they're removed - this will ensure they are reinstalled in their original Lift

is felt,

as

oil

pan

place by four

locations.

7

The

baffle is held in

the head off the engine.

If

bolts (arrows)

resistance

don't pry between the head and block

damage

to the mating surfaces

will result.

To dislodge the head, place a block of wood against the end of it and strike the wood block with a hammer. Store the head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the gasket sealing surfaces. Cylinder head disassembly and inspec8 tion procedures are covered in detail in

Chapter

2,

Part G.

Installation

new gasket over

1

Position the

pins

in

14

Carefully position the

the dowel

head on the block

without disturbing the gasket.

Refer to illustrations 11.10 and 11.15

15

the bolts

necting the battery. 2

3

head and block must be perfectly clean when

and tighten them finger tight. Following the recommended sequence (see illustration),

the head

tighten the bolts

9

The mating surfaces is

of the cylinder

installed.

in their original

traces of carbon and old gasket material (see illustration), then clean the mating surfaces

in several steps to the torque and angle of rotation listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 16 The remaining installation steps are the

with lacquer thinner or acetone.

reverse of removal.

10

Use a gasket scraper

to

remove

all

there's

oil

on the mating surfaces when the head

is

installed, the

gasket

may

If

not seal correctly

and leaks could develop. Note: Since the head is made of aluminum, aggressive scraping can cause damage. Be extra careful not to nick or gouge the mating surface with the scraper. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove debris that

falls

1

Refill

and filter (see Chapter 1 if necessary). 18 Run the engine and check for leaks and proper operation. ,

Oil

pan

-

removal and installation

each bolt in a vise and run a die down the threads to remove corrosion and restore the threads. Dirt, corrosion, sealant and dam-

aged threads

will

affect torque readings.

tion 4).

Remove

5

pan

the radiator outlet pipe-to-oil

bolt.

On manual transaxle equipped models, remove the transaxle-to-oll pan nut and stud

with a 7

mm socket.

Gently pry the spacer out from between

7 the

oil

pan and transaxle.

Remove Remove

9 10

the

oil

pan-to-transaxle bolt.

the

oil

pan mounting

Refer to

illustrations 12. 1

1

and

12.

Note: The following procedure the assumption the engine

15

is

based on

place in the vehicle. If its been removed, simply unbolt the oil pan and detach it from the block. is in

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then refer to Chapter 1 and drain the oil. Caution: On models equipped

or

bolts.

Carefully separate the pan from the

block. Don't pry

11

machining may be the only alternative. 12 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the head bolt holes. Mount

the lower splash shield.

Detach the lower bellhousing cover. 4 Unbolt the exhaust manifold brace (manual transaxle models only - see Sec-

8

into the cylinders.

Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other damage. If damage is slight, it can be removed with a flat mill file; if it's excessive,

Remove

6

the cooling system and change the

oil

12

is

ing any procedure which requires discon-

locations

Install

be sure the turned off before perform-

with the Theftlock audio system,

lockout feature

the block.

damage

and

oil

leaks

crankshaft

between the block and pan

to the sealing surfaces

may

may

result

may

develop. Note: The have to be rotated to gain

oil pan removal. you need to get at the crankshaft or other lower end components, remove the oil pan baffle (see illustration).

clearance for 1

If

Installation 12

Clean the sealing surfaces with lacquer

thinner or acetone.

Make

sure the bolt holes

Chapter 2 Part

12.15 Oil pan bolt locations

-

C

2.3

liter

2C-13

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

viewed from below

13.5

Check the

oil

pump

drive gear (arrow)

and driven gear for

wear and damage

in

the block are clean.

install

the mounting bolts. Tighten them to in this Chapter's Specifica-

The gasket should be checked carefully and replaced with a new one if damage is noted. Minor imperfections can be repaired with silicone sealant. Caution: Use only enough sealant to restore the gasket to its original size and shape. Excess sealant may cause part misalignment and oil leaks. 14 Reinstall the oil pan baffle, if removed.

the torque listed

With the gasket in position, carefully hold the pan against the block and install the bolts fin-

tions

ger tight. 15 Tighten the bolts

Install the oil baffle, 8 removed). 9 Add oil and run the engine. Check for pressure and leaks.

13

in

three steps to the

torque

listed in this Chapter's Specifications (see illustration). Start at the center of the pan and work out toward the ends in a spiral

pattern. Note that the bolts are not all tightened to the same torque value. 16 The remaining steps are the reverse of removal. Caution: Don't forget to refill the engine with oil before starting it (see Chapter

1).

oil

leaks at the

and check

carefully for

pan.

oil

Oil

Oil

pump

and

in this

removal, inspection

-

Flywheel

14

-

oil

the clearance

If

oil

pump. pan (and

is

not

if

oil

removal and

installation

This procedure all

is

essentially the

engines. Refer to Part

and

B and

same

follow the

installation

procedure

Check the surface

of the fly-

driveplate removal

grooves and other signs of damage. If necessary, have the flywheel machined by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to use the bolt torque listed in this

Refer to

Chapter.

outlined there.

installation

drive gear backlash

correct, replace the

wheel

13

pump

must be pump, crankshaft or engine block is replaced. Mount a dial indicator on the engine with the indicator stem touching the oil pump driven gear. Check the backlash and compare it to the Specifica7

checked whenever the

for

Start the engine

1

15

Rear main

oil

seal

replacement

-

tions.

for cracks, rivet

Chapter's Specifications.

Refer to

illustrations 15.5, 15.6, 15.7

Warning: A special

tool

is

and

15.8

available to sup-

port the engine during repair operations. Sim-

are available from rental yards. Improper lifting methods or devices are hazardous and could result in severe injury or death. DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine/transaxle when it's supported only by a jack. Failure of the lifting device could result in serious injury or death. Note: The rear main (crankshaft) oil seal is a one-piece unit that can be replaced without removing the engine. However, the transaxle must be removed and the engine must be supported as this procedure is done. A special tool is available for seal installation, but the procedure outlined here was devised to avoid having to use the tool. Remove the transaxle (see Chapter 7). 1 2 Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc (see Chapter 8). 3 Remove the flywheel (see Section 14). 4 Remove the oil pan (see Section 12). After the oil pan has been removed, 5 remove the bolts (see illustration), detach the seal housing and peel off all the old gasilar fixtures

illustration 13.5

Removal 1

Remove

the

oil

pan as described

in

Sec-

tion 12.

2

While supporting the

pump, remove

oil

the mounting bolts.

3

Lower the pump from the engine. 15.5

Inspection Clean 4 the cover. 5

all

parts thoroughly and

Visually inspect

all

and other damage (see the

pump

if

it's

high mileage or

parts for wear, cracks illustration).

defective, if

remove

the engine

Replace

the engine has

if

is

being

rebuilt.

Installation 6

Remove the

seal housing

Position the

pump on

the engine and

bolts (arrows)

2C-14

Chapter 2 Part

C

2.3

15.6 After removing the housing from the engine, support

wood

blocks and drive out the old seal with a punch and

liter

it

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

on

15.7 Drive the

hammer

new

a section of pipe,

you have one large enough seal

and lip, then position a over the dowel pins (arrows)

15.8 Lubricate the seal journal

new gasket

16.7

Upper torque

ket material. Position the seal housing

7

Drive the

new

seal into the housing with

a wood block (see illustration). Lubricate the crankshaft seal journal 8 and the lip of the new seal with moly-base grease. Position a new gasket on the engine block (see illustration). Slowly and carefully push the new seal 9 onto the crankshaft. The seal lip is stiff, so work it onto the crankshaft with a smooth object such as the end of an extension as you push the housing against the block. 10 Install and tighten the housing bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

11

Install

in

the flywheel and clutch

16

Engine mounts replacement

Refer to

illustrations 16.

Warning: A special

7,

check and

16.8

and

16.

13

tool is available to sup-

port the engine during repair operations. Sinriilar fixtures are available from rental yards.

Improper lifting methods or devices are hazardous and could result in severe injury or death. DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine/transaxle when it's supported only by a jack. Failure of the lifting device could result in serious injury or death. 1 Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain placed on the driveline components may cause damage or wear.

mounting bolt locations (arrows)

strut

Check

12

2

During the check, the engine must be

remove the weight from the

mounts. 3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Support the engine as described above. If the special support fixture is unavailable, position a jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large block of wood

between the jack head and the oil pan, then enough to take the weight off the mounts. Warning: DO NOT place any part of your body under the engine vt/hen it's supported only by a jack! 4 Check the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal plates. Sometimes the rubber will split carefully raise the engine just

right

5

down the center. Check for movement between the

mount

plates

and the engine or frame (use a

large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt to

the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fas-

move

compo-

nents. Reinstall the transaxle.

-

-

the housing bore

raised slightly to

on a couple of wood blocks on a workbench and drive the old seal out from the back side with a punch and hammer (see illustration). 6

wood or don't cock the

seal into the housing with a block of

if

teners.

Chapter 2 Part

C

2.3

liter

2C-15

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

^^r

1 -jH

rvl^^^^^^^^^M

*:t

1

K^l^ ,»-• -S^-^^^^^K^

-

16.8 Torque strut to

6

ff^j^S^^B^^^I

1

body bracket bolts

Rubber preservative should be applied mounts to slow deterioration.

8

Remove

16.13 Engine

the torque strut-to-body mount

to the

bolts (see illustration).

Replacement

9 10

and

Upper mount (torque

strut)

7 Detach the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the upper torque strut bracket bolt (see illustration). Caution: On models equipped with tlie Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

Remove install

new torque

the

bolts.

ing any procedure which requires discon-

Tighten

Working under the frame mounting remove the nuts from the engine mount (see illustration). 13

strut in position

the

nuts

securely. 1

bolt locations (arrows)

necting the battery.

the torque strut.

Place the

mount

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Lower mount Detach the negative battery cable from 12 the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before perfonv-

bracket,

1

Raise the engine off the mount. Remove the mount-to-bracket nuts.

1

Remove

17

Installation

1

the

mount from the

is

vehicle.

the reverse of removal.

1

Gently lower the engine.

1

Tighten the nuts securely.

20

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

2C-16

Chapter 2 Part C

2.3

liter

four-cylinder (Quad-4) engine

Notes

2D-1

Chapter 2 Part D 2.8L, 3.1 L and 3100 V6 engines Contents

Section

Camshaft and bearings and installation Crankshaft front

oil

seal

-

removal, inspection

See Chapter 2G -

replacement

Cylinder heads

removal and

-

Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation General information

Oil

pan

-

removal, inspection and installation

lifters -

Intake manifold

removal and

-

removal and

8

installation

and replacement Engine mounts - check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Drivebelt check, adjustment

Hydraulic

11

See Chapter 2G

Cylinder compression check

installation

installation

Section

See Chapter

1

18 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2G See Chapter 2G 7

16 1

9 6 14

pump

removal and installation Rear main oil seal - replacement Repair operations possible with the engine

Oil

15 17

-

in

4

See Chapter

See Chapter 2G 3 5 10 See Chapter 3

General numbers

(drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

Front bank (radiator side)

2-4-6

Rear bank Firing order

1-3-5 1-2-3-4-5-6

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Camshaft sprocket bolts 2.8Land3.1L 1989 and eariier 1990 and later 3100 1995 and eariier 1996 and 1997 1998 and later Cylinder head bolts Stepi 1997 and eariier 1998 through 2001 2002 and later Step 2 2001 and

2002 and

18 21

FRONT

74 81

103

2.8Land3.1L V6 engines

Rotate an additional 90-degrees (1/4-tum)

later

Rotate an additional 95-degrees

3100

18 144

in-lbs

Flywheel/driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts

2.8L and 3.1L

3100 1995 and eariier 1996 and 1997 1998 and later Lower intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts/nuts 2.8Land3.1L Step one Step two 3100 Stepi Step 2

®®

33 37 44

eariier

Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts 2.8L and 3.1L

®

52

OOo [g)

59 61

52

15 24

62 in-lbs 115 in-lbs

(S)!!® a:

® ® ® ® 1994 and later 3100 V6 engine

1

13 12

Specifications

Cylinder

2

the vehicle

Rocker arms and pushrods - removal, inspection and installation Spark plug replacement Timing chain and sprockets - inspection, removal and installation Timing chain cover - removal and installation Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston - locating Valve covers - removal and installation Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement Vibration damper - removal and installation Water pump - removal and installation

FRONT OF VEHICLE

r»io«»-vN—

Cylinder and coil terminal locations

Chapter 2 Part D

2D-2

Torque specifications (continued) Oil

and 3100 V6 engines

2.8L, 3.1 L

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

pan bolts/nuts

2.8Land3.1L Left (transaxle end) All

two

18 89

bolts

others

in-lbs

3100 18 37

Retaining

Side Oil Oil

pump pump

30 27

nnounting bolts drive bolt (3100)

Rocker arm nuts/bolts 1995 and earlier (nuts) 1996 and 1997 (bolts) 1998 and later (bolts)

18 89 in-lbs plus an additional 30 degrees 168 in-lbs plus an additional 30 degrees

Timing chain cover bolts (see illustration 12.16)

2.8Land3.1L

mm (number 3) mm (number 4)

6 8

3100 1997 and

20 28

earlier

Small Large

15 35

1998 through 2000 Small

15 35

Medium Large 2001

41

Small

20

Medium

41

Large

41

2002 and

later

Small

20

Large

41

Timing chain damper bolt 2.8L and 3.1L

15

3100 1995 and 1996 and

18 15

earlier later

Valve cover-to-cylinder head bolts Vibration

damper

89 76 35 43 35 35 35 52 37

bolt

Front engine mount-to-bracket nuts

mount bracket-to-oil pan bolts Rear engine mount nuts to transaxle bracket Rear engine mount-to-chassis nuts Torque strut through-bolt nuts Front

Left strut

mount to cylinder head mount to block

bolts

Right strut

bile 1

General information

Refer to

Illustration 1.2

This Part of Chapter 2

Cutlass

models

only.

Supreme and

in-lbs

the Buick Regal

These engines

utilize

cast-iron

blocks with six cylinders arranged in a "V" at a 60-degree angle between the two banks. The overhead valve aluminum cylinder heads are equipped with replaceable valve guides and seats. Hydraulic lifters actuate the valves through tubular pushrods. The engines are easily identified by looking for the designations printed on the aluminum intake plenum, directly on the top (see Illustration). To positively identify these engines, locate the vehicle identification

the vehicle (see illustration 1.1 Part B). is

is

devoted to

in-

and 3100 V6 engines. The 2.8L engine became available in 1988 and 1989, in the Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and the Buick Regal models only. The 3.1 L engine became available in 1989 and was produced through 1994, in all four models covered by this manual. The 3100 engine became available in 1994 and later, is utilized in the Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmoit

number on the left front corner of the instrument panel. This plate is visible from outside

in

in

Chapter

2,

the sequence

the engine designation:

W = 2.8L V6 engine

shape

vehicle repair procedures for the 2.8L, 3.1 L

The eighth character

T = 3.1LV6 engine 3.1L Turbocharged V6 engine M = 3100 V6 engine

V=

information concerning engine All removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in

G of this Chapter. The following repair procedures are based on the assumption the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, many of the steps outPart

Chapter 2 Part D 2.8L,

1.2 3.1 L Multi Port Fuel Injected engine (2.8L

and 3100

3.1

3.10

similar)

Some valve cover mounting for

Chapter 2

lined in this Part of

will

The Specifications Included

not apply. in this

Part

Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part G of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding. of

preparation work that must be done to the

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Remove the air cleaner assembly (see 13 Chapter 4). 14 On the 2.8L and 3.1 L, drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). Remove the coolant hoses at

involved.

Valve covers

-

removal and

installation

Many major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine

damage

to the paint. Special

pads are

avail-

Removal Front cover Refer to

illustration

3.10

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be 1

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Remove the air cleaner assembly (see 2

vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaks develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal replacement, the repairs can generally be done with the engine in the vehicle. The intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, timing chain cover gasket, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gaskets are all accessible with the engine in place.

to ensure correct reinstallation.

bedspread or blanket

will

also work. If

components, such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan (and the oil pump), the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator and the fuel system components can be removed for repair Exterior engine

with the engine

Since

in

the

place.

cylinder

heads

can

be

removed without pulling the engine, valve component servicing can also be accomplished

with

Replacement ets

is

the

engine

the

in

vehicle.

and sprockalso possible with the engine in the

vehicle.

of the timing chain

7 Detach the spark plug wire harness clamps from the coolant tube. Remove the PCV tube from the valve 8 cover.

9

Drain the coolant (see Chapter

1

Remove

cial

1).

the valve cover mounting bolts. models are equipped with spe-

Some bolts. Remove them

Note:

but don't distort the sealing flange.

Rear cover 12 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be

the base of the throttle valve. 1 Rotate the engine (see Chapter

Chapter 4). On the 3100, remove the thermostat 3 bypass pipe clip nut. 4 On the 3100, remove the automatic transaxle vacuum modulator pipe assembly. On the 3100, disconnect the right 5 engine mount strut at the engine. remove the spark plug If necessary, 6 wires from the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). Be sure each wire is labeled before removal

able, but an old

installation

fully,

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

from the vehicle. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done. It'll make the job easier and help keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine. Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the hood to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 1 1 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent

bolts (arrows) require a Torx bit

removal and

In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and

components

2

2D-3

L and 3100 V6 engines

with a T-30 Torx

driver (see illustration).

Detach the valve cover. Note: If the 11 cover sticks to the cylinder head, use a block of wood and a hammer to dislodge it. If the cover still won 't come loose, pry on it care-

1 ).

16 Detach the vacuum hoses at the plenum. Also, disconnect the brake booster vacuum supply at the plenum. 1 Remove the EGR tube at the crossover pipe. On the 3100, disconnect the EGR valve and move it aside. Disconnect the ignition wire guide and 18 harness at the plenum. On the 3100, remove the ignition coil-pack, which on later models

vacuum canisand purge control solenoids. On these models, tag and disconnect the wires and includes the solenoids for the

ter

hoses to the solenoids. 19 If necessary, remove the bracket

at the

plenum. the serpentine drivebelt (see

right side of the

20 Remove Chapter 1). 21 On the 3100, remove the black plastic cover from the shock tower. 22 Remove the alternator and loosen the alternator bracket (see Chapter 5). 23 Detach the breather hose from the PCV valve.

24 Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). Be sure each wire is labeled before removal to ensure correct reinstallation.

Remce the accelerator cable, T.V. cable and also the cruise control cable, as necessary. Detach the valve cover. Note 1: If the 26 cover sticks to the cylinder head, use a block of wood and a hammer to dislodge it. If the cover still won 't come loose, pry on it carefully, but don't distort the sealing flange. 25

2D-4

Chapter 2 Part D

2.8L, 3.1 L

4.2a

and 3100 V6 engines

On 1995 and

models remove the rocker arm nuts (arrows) earlier

Some models are equipped with bolts. Remove them with a T-30

Note cial

2:

speTorx

Rocker arms and pushrods

4

4.2b 1996 and later engines use rocker arm bolts, stamped roller rocker arms, and rocker arm pedestals - they are kept as an assembly by a small sleeve between the bolt and the pedestal - note the projections on the pedestal; they fit into grooves In the head

-

removal, inspection and

driver (see illustration 3.10).

installation

Installation 27 The mating surfaces of each cylinder head and valve cover must be perfectly clean when the covers are installed. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant or old gasket material, then clean the mating sur-

faces with lacquer thinner or acetone (if there's sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the cover is installed, oil leaks may develop). The valve covers are made of aluminum, so be extra careful not to nick or gouge the mating surfaces with the scraper. 28 Clean the mounting bolt threads with a die if necessary to remove any corrosion and restore damaged threads. Use a tap to clean the threaded holes in the heads. 29 Place the valve cover and new gasket in position, then install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in several steps to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 30 Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure. Start the engine and check carefully for oil leaks at the valve cover-to-head joints.

Refer to

illustrations 4.2a,

4.2b and 4.3

Remove

1

the valve cover(s) (see Sec-

tion 3).

On 1995 and

models, the rocker arms are retained by nuts with a pivot ball between the nut and the rocker. The 1996 and later engines have the rocker arm on a pedestal, with a bolt through the rocker arm and pedestal. Beginning at the drivebelt end of one cylinder head, remove the rocker arm mounting nuts/bolts one at a time and 2

earlier

detach the rocker arms, nuts, and pivot balls/pedestals (see illustrations). Store of rocker arm components sepa-

each set

rately in a

marked

they're reinstalled

in

plastic

bag

to ensure

their original locations.

The 1996 and later rocker arms have the pedestal mount "captured" on the rocker arm bolt by a metal sleeve inside. The compo-

Grooves

Check the

5

with several paint stripes to help

pushrods from the exhaust (blue striped) pushrods. Never mix-up the pushrods and always install them in the original position from which they were removed or engine

damage may

occur.

4

Inspect

each rocker arm

for

wear,

make

contact.

each rocker arm

pivot balls as well.

Make sure the hole at the pushrod end each rocker arm is open. 7 Inspect the pushrods for cracks and excessive wear at the ends. Roll each pushrod across a piece of plate glass to see of

bent

it's

(if it

wobbles,

8

and the

it's

bent).

Lubricate the lower end of each pushrod or

moly-base grease

in their

original locations.

with clean engine install

them

oil

sure each pushrod seats completely

lifter

in

socket.

9 Apply moly-base grease to the ends of the valve stems and the upper ends of the pushrods.

Apply moly-base grease to the pivot damage to the mating surfaces before engine oil pressure builds up. Install the rocker arms, pivot balls and nuts and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. As the nuts are tightened, make sure the pushrods engage 10

balls to prevent

properly

in

the rocker arms.

the valve covers and the remaincomponents detached during valve cover removal (see Section 3). Start the engine and check for any unusual noises coming from 1

Install

ing

Inspection

in

6

Make

coded

pivot seat

pivot ball faces.

room

distinguish the intake (red or orange striped)

head

stress cracks

Installation

for

In the

Look for galling, and unusual wear patterns. If the rocker arms are worn or damaged, replace them with new ones and install new

and the

components for a particular valve will stay as an assembly. Note: If you only need to remove the pushrods, loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and turn the rocker arms to allow

color

perforated cardboard box can be used to store the pushrods to ensure they are reinstalled in their original locations note the label indicating the transaxle end of the engine

Pedestal projections

cracks and other damage, especially where

if

pushrod removal. Remove the pushrods and store them 3 separately to make sure they don't get mixed up during installation (see illustration). Note: Intake and exhaust pushrods are different lengths. The intake pushrods are shorter and the exhaust pushrods are longer in length. On 1995 and earlier models the pushrods may be

A

Rocker arm bolt Rocker arm Rocker arm pedestal

the pushrods and valve stems

nents can be separated if necessary by tapping the bolt out of the pedestal, but normally all

4.3

A B C D E

Removal

the valve cover area.

Chapter 2 Part D

6.9 Label (arrow)

and disconnect

all

2.8L, 3.1 L

remaining hoses and lines

2D-5

and 3100 V6 engines

6.11a Intake manifold mounting bolt/nut locations - models

through 1995

Remove

3

5

Valve springs, retainers and seals -

replacement

This procedure

is

at

4

essentially the

same

as the procedure for the 2.5 liter four-cylinder engine. Refer to Part B and follow the proce-

EGR

valve (see Chapter 4)

Remove

the plenum, fuel

rail

and

removal and

installation

Removal Refer to

illustrations 6.9, 6.

1

1a, 6.

1

lb

and 6.11c 1 Relieve the fuel system pressure (see Chapter 4). 2 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

injec-

you're installing a

If

all

new

and sensors

fittings

manifold,

to the

new

manifold.

Chapter 4). When disconnecting fuel be prepared to catch some fuel with a rag, then cap the fittings to prevent

1

Loosen the rocker arm

nuts/bolts, rotate

line ffttings.

the rocker arms out of the

way and remove

contamination.

gasket (see Section

Remove

1).

6 Remove the alternator and loosen the bracket (see Chapter 5). 7 Unbolt the power steering pump (if equipped) and set it aside without disconnecting the hoses. Disconnect the coolant tubes and hoses 8 as necessary. Label and disconnect any remaining fuel 9 and vacuum lines (see illustration) and wires from the manifold. Remove the valve covers (see Sec10 tion 3).

11

and

Remove

the manifold mounting bolts from the

nuts, then separate the manifold

engine (see illustrations). Don't pry between the manifold and heads, as damage to the soft aluminum gasket sealing surfaces may

6.11b Pry the manifold loose at a casting boss don't pry between the gasket surfaces!

the pushrods that go through the manifold 4).

the serpentine drivebelt and

drain the cooling system (see Chapter

Intake manifold

result.

transfer

tors (see

5

dure outlined there.

the

the plenum.

Installation Refer to

illustration

6.16

Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads, block and manifold must be perfectly clean when the manifold is installed. Gasket

removal solvents are available at most auto and may be helpful when removing old gasket material that's stuck to the heads and manifold (since the manifold is made of aluminum, aggressive scraping can cause damage). Be sure to follow the directions printed on the container. Lift the old gasket off. Use a gasket 13 scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating

parts stores

surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If oil on the mating surfaces when the manifold is installed, oil or

there's old sealant or

6.11c Intake manifold TIGHTENING sequence, 1996 and later models - make sure the bolts in the center (1 through 4) are completely tightened before tightening the end bolts (5 through 8)

Chapter 2 Part D

2D-6

2.8L, 3.1 L

6.16 Apply a bead of sealant to, or position an end seal on, the ridges between the heads (arrows)

leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any gasket material that

vacuum

falls into

the intake ports or the

lifter

valley.

14 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt holes, if necessary,

then use compressed air (if available) to remove the debris from the holes. Warning: IVear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes wher) using compressed air! 15 Apply a 3/16-inch (5 mm) bead of RTV sealant or equivalent to the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads. Note: Some gasket sets include end seals. 16 Install the intake manifold gasket (see illustration).

17

Install

(see Section

the pushrods and rocker arms

18

Carefully lower the manifold into place

and

install

the mounting bolts/nuts finger

the four vertical bolts (in the middle of the manifold) then the four tight. First tighten

angled bolts

(at

the ends) (see illustra-

tion 6.11a). Note: Coaf the bolt threads with

pipe thread sealant. 19 Tighten the mounting bolts until they're all at the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Caution: To prevent oil leaks, tighten the vertical bolts first to ensure that the lower manifold stays centered on the gaskets, then tighten the angled bolts. 20 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 21 Change the oil and filter and refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). Start the engine and check for leaks.

7

Exhaust manifolds

-

On

early models the exhaust crossover pipe is secured by four nuts; the upper nuts (arrows) are visible here

7.12

the

hose and mass

air

air

cleaner assembly,

inlet

flow sensor (see Chap-

ter 4).

3

Unbolt the crossover pipe where

1

Allow the engine to cool completely, then

nect the coolant bypass tube,

1

if

)

and discon-

necessary.

On 3100

models

and

and remove the heater outlet pipe. the 3100, remove the automatic transaxle vacuum modulator pipe if

illustration).

ness,

On

equipped.

Remove

the

coolant

reservoir

(see

Chapter 3). Remove the serpentine drivebelt (see 8 Chapter 1). On models through 1996, remove the air 9 conditioning compressor, leaving the hoses connected to it (see Chapter 3). Remove the torque strut from the right 10 side, if necessary (see Section 18). 1 Remove the torque strut bracket, and on models through 1996, the air conditioning compressor bracket.

it

will

be necessary

crossover pipe heat shield left

6

to

on each side 13

is

mounted

7.

(four bolts totaf).

Remove

the manifold heat shield (see

illustration). 1

Remove

the mounting bolts and detach

the manifold from the cylinder head (see

15

Clean the mating surfaces to remove

and

7.

manifold for distortion and cracks. Warpage can be checked with a precision straightedge held against the mating flange. If a feeler gauge thicker than 0.030-inch can be inserted between the straight edge and flange surface, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 16 Place the manifold in position with a new gasket and install the mounting bolts finger

tight.

Starting in the middle and working out toward the ends, tighten the mounting bolts a little at a time until all of them are at the

17

14

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be 1

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

7.13 Exhaust manifold heat shield mounting bolts (arrows) (3.1 L engine shown, 2.8L and 3100 engine similar)

all

traces of old gasket material, then inspect the

removal and

13

to the

exhaust manifolds by fwo bolts

right

Front manifold illustrations 7. 12,

On

remove the

installation

Refer to

joins

crossover pipe heat shield to allow access to the crossover pipe mounting nuts. The

engines through 1998, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses and the coolant bypass pipe from the front exhaust manifold and water pump. 5 On the 31 00, remove the tie straps from the heater outlet pipe and ignition wire har4

it

the front manifold (see illustration). Note: later

drain the coolant (see Chapter

7

4).

Remove

2

and 3100 V6 engines

7.14 Exhaust manifold bolt locations (arrows)

Chapter 2 Part

D

2.8L, 3.1

2D-7

L and 3100 V6 engines

torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Install the remaining components in the 18 reverse order of removal. Start the engine and check for exhaust 19 leaks between the manifold and cylinder head and between the manifold and exhaust pipe.

Rear manifold 20 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlocl< audio system, be sure the lockout feature is tamed off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 21 Allow the engine to cool completely, then drain the coolant (see Chapter 1). 22 Remove the coolant reservoir, if necessary (see Chapter

8.3

3).

23 Rotate the engine to gain working clearance at the rear of the engine (see Chapter 1). 24 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4). 25 On some models it may be necessary to remove the accelerator cable and T.V. cable and brackets for clearance (see Chapters 4 and 7). 26 Unbolt the crossover pipe (or front manifold extension pipe) where it joins the rear manifold (see illustration 7.12). Remove the exhaust manifold

Remove the

oil

dipstick tube

scrape

bolts retaining

it

8

torque

9

38

Chapter's Specifications.

listed in this

Install

the remaining components

in

the

reverse order of removal.

and check for exhaust and cylinder head and between the manifold and exhaust pipe. Start the engine

39

leaks between the manifold

Cylinder heads

8

-

removal and

installation

to the manifold, not three

bolts like the front manifold heat shield.

28 Set the parking brake, block the rear wheels and raise the front of the vehicle, supporting securely on jackstands. 29 Working under the vehicle with the engine completely cool, remove the exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts.. You may have to apply penetrating oil to the fastener threads it

they're usually rusted. Note: later

On 1997 and

30

catalytic converter is bolted exhaust manifold. the 3100, it may be necessary to

On

lower the drivetrain/front suspension frame assembly. Place a floor jack under the frame front center crossmember. Loosen the rear

frame bolts

-

DO NOT REMOVE THEM!

Remove

the front frame bolts and lower the front of the frame. 31

On

the 3100, disconnect the

EGR

tube

assembly from the exhaust manifold. 32 On the 3100, remove the automatic transaxle vacuum modulator pipe (if equipped) and the filler tube. 33 Remove the oxygen sensor from the manifold

34

if equipped. Unbolt and remove the exhaust mani-

fold (see illustration 7.14).

35

Refer to illustrations 8.18 and 8.19

8.3, 8. 13, 8. 16a, 8. 16b,

Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely before loosening the cylinder head bolts. Note: On engines with high mileage and during an overhaul, camshaft lobe height should

be checked prior (see Chapter

2,

to cylinder

Part

G

head removal

for instructions).

models the

to the rear

Clean the mating surfaces to remove

all

warpage and cracks. Warpage can be checked with a traces of old sealant, then check for

Removal Disconnect the negative battery cable 1 from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 2 Remove the air cleaner assembly (see Chapter 4) and then remove the intake maniSection 8. On 2002 modsplash shield by bending the spring clips that secure the shield to the fold

as described

els,

remove the

in

oil

cylinder heads.

you're removing the front cylinder head, remove the oil dipstick tube mounting bolt (see illustration). Disconnect all wires and vacuum hoses 4 from the cylinder head(s). Be sure to label 3

them

If

to simplify reinstallation.

precision straightedge held against the mating

Disconnect the spark plug wires and remove the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). Be

a feeler gauge thicker than 0.030-inch

sure the plug wires are labeled to simplify

flange.

If

can be inserted between the straightedge and flange surface, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 36 Place the manifold in position with a new gasket and install the bolts finger tight.

old gasket

off all old

and

carefully

gasket material

and sealant 37 Starting in the middle and working out toward the ends, tighten the mounting bolts a little at a time until all of them are at the

27

heat shield (see illustration 7.13). Note that the rear manifold heat shield typically has two

Remove the

8.13

mounting bolt (arrow)

5

reinstallation.

Detach the exhaust manifold from the 6 cylinder head being removed (see Section 7). Remove the valve cover(s) (see Sec7 tion 3).

Remove

(see Section

the rocker

arms and pushrods

4).

Using the new head gasket, outline the and bolt pattern on a piece of cardboard (see illustration 8.11 in Part B). Be sure to indicate the front (drivebelt end) of the engine for reference. Punch holes at the bolt cylinders

Loosen each of the cylinder head mounting bolts 1/4-turn at a time until they can be removed by hand - work from bolt-tolocations.

bolt in a pattern that's the reverse of the tightening sequence (see illustration 8.19). Store the bolts in the cardboard holder as they're removed - this will ensure they are reinstalled in their original locations, which is absolutely

essential.

10 Lift the head(s) off the engine. If resistance is felt, don't pry between the head and block as damage to the mating surfaces will

Recheck for head bolts that may have been overlooked, then use a hammer and block of wood to tap up on the head and break the gasket seal. Be careful because result.

there are locating dowels position

each head. As a

head up

at the rear

not to

damage

the block which pry each

corner only and be careful anything. After removal, place

the head on blocks of

age

in

last resort,

wood

to prevent

dam-

to the gasket surfaces.

Refer to Chapter 2, Part G, for cylinder 11 head disassembly, inspection and valve service procedures.

Installation The mating surfaces of each cylinder 12 head and block must be perfectly clean when the head is installed. 13 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material (see illustration), then clean the

mating surfaces

with lacquer thinner or acetone.

there's

oil

on the mating surfaces when the head

is

may not seal correctly may develop. When working on the

installed, the

and leaks

If

gasket

it's a good idea to cover the 'ifter valley shop rags to keep debris out of the engine. Use a shop rag or vacuum cleaner to remove any debris that falls into the cylinders. 14 Check the block and head mating sur-

block, A/ith

Chapter 2 Part D

2D-8

8.16a Position the

new gasket over the dowel

and 3100 V6 engines

2.8L, 3.1 L

pins (arrows)

8.16b

.

.

.

with the correct side facing up

faces for nicks, deep scratches and other

damage. If damage is slight, it can be removed with a file; it's excessive, machin-

9

if

ing

may be

the only altemative.

Use a tap

15

the threads

in

sion, sealant

of the correct size to

the head bolt holes.

Dirt,

and damaged threads

chase

Refer to

corro-

can be isolated when the engine is idling. Hold a mechanic's stethoscope or a length of hose near the location of each valve while listening at the other end. Another method is to remove the valve cover and, with the engine idling, touch each of the valve spring retainers, one at a time. If a valve lifter is defective, it'll be evident from the shock felt at the retainer each

will

affect

torque readings.

16

Position the

pins

in

TOP

new gasket over

the dowel

Some gaskets are marked THIS SIDE UP to ensure correct

the block.

or

installation (see illustrations).

17

Carefully position the

head on the block

without disturbing the gasket.

18 Apply RTV sealant or equivalent to the threads and the undersides of the bolt heads. Install

the bolts

in

the correct locations

-

two

used (see illustration). Here's where the cardboard holder comes in

different lengths are

handy. 19 Tighten the bolts, using the recommended sequence (see illustration), to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Then, using the same sequence, turn each bolt the amount of angle listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

20

The remaining

installation

steps are the

reverse of removal. 21

Change

Chapter

1).

Hydraulic lifters - removal, inspection and installation

the engine

oil

and

filter

(see

1

A

illustrations 9.4, 9.5

noisy valve

and 9.6

lifter

8.18

2

The most

lifters

lack of

likely

Two

head

apply sealant to the threads and the undersides of the

causes of noisy valve lifter and

are dirt trapped inside the oil

different length cylinder

bolts are used

time the valve seats.

bolt

-

heads (arrows)

flow, viscosity or pressure. Before

condemning the

lifters,

contamination, correct

check the level,

oil

for fuel

cleanliness and

conrect viscosity.

which side they came from. Note: On 2002 3.1 L models, first remove the oil splash shield by bending the spring clips that secure the shield to the cylinder heads.

Removal 3

Remove

There are several ways to extract the from the bores. A special tool designed to grip and remove lifters is manufactured by many tool companies and is widely available, but it may not be required in every case. On newer engines without a lot of varnish buildup, the lifters can often be removed with a small magnet or even with your fingers. A 5

the valve cover(s) and intake

manifold as described in Sections 3 and 6. 4 Remove the rocker arms and pushrods (see Section 4). On 3100 engines, remove the bolts holding the roller lifter guide to the block, and remove the two roller lifter guides (see illustration). Mark the guides as to

8.19 Cylinder head bolt TIGHTENING SEQUENCE (reverse the sequence when loosening the bolts)

9.4

Remove

the bolts

lifters

(A)

and

pull

up the

roller lifter

guides

(B)

D

Chapter 2 Part

9.5

A magnetic pick-up tool or a scribe can be used to remove the lifters

2.8L, 3.1 L

9.6 Store the lifters in a

ensure

box

like this to

installation in their

original locations

machinist's scribe with a bent end can be used to pull the lifters out by positioning the point under the retainer ring

in

the top of each

(see illustration). Caution: Don't use pliers to remove the lifters unless you intend lifter

them with new ones (along with the camshaft). The pliers may damage the precision machined and hardened lifters, rendering them useless. Before removing the lifters, arrange to 6 store them in a clearly labeled box to ensure

vibration

damper

shift the inertia

Remove

the

lifters

original locations.

in their

and store them where they

won't get dirty (see illustration). Note: Some engines may have both standard and 0.010inch oversize lifters installed at the factory. They are marked on the block at the lifter boss and will have 0.25 OS stamped on it.

mm

and installation

Inspection 7

Parts for valve

separately.

lifters

are not available

The work required

to

remove

them from the engine again

if cleaning is unsuccessful outweighs any potential savings from repairing them. Refer to Chapter 2, Part B, for lifter inspection procedures and Part G for camshaft inspection procedures. If the lifters are worn, they must be replaced with new ones. Note: If the lifters are nonroller type, the camshaft must be replaced as well - never install used non-roller lifters with a new camshaft or new non-roller lifters with a used camshaft. 8 When reinstalling used lifters, make sure

you do not accidentally

weight's position relative to

the sleeve or damper, as this

will

upset the

tuning of the vibration damper.

lifters in oil

all lifters

assembly lube 9

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. 2 Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel.

damper

bolt. The bolt is normally so use a large breaker bar and a sixpoint socket. Note: On later models it may be necessary to lower the right side of the subframe to allow access to the vibration damper bolt. Place a floor jack under the subframe's front center crossmember. Loosen the left side bolts (DO NOT REMOVE THEM!) then remove the right side bolts and lower the right side to access the damper Pull the damper off the crankshaft with a 8 bolt-type puller (see illustration). Leave the Woodruff key in place in the end of the

vibration

very

tight,

crankshaft.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 4 Remove the right front wheel. 5 Remove the right front inner fender 3

splash shield.

6 Remove the serpentine drivebelt (see Chapter 1). 7 On automatic transaxle equipped models, remove the driveplate cover and position a large screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the crankshaft from turning while an assistant removes the vibration damper-to-crankshaft bolt (see illustration). On manual transaxle equipped models, engage high gear and apply

Installation 9 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to apply moly-base grease to the seal contact surface of the damper hub (if it isn't lubricated, the seal lip could be damaged and oil leakage would result). Align the damper hub keyway with the Woodruff key (see illustration).

the vibration damper-to10 Tighten crankshaft bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 11 Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

bores. Soak remove trapped air. Coat with moly-base grease or engine

they're replaced

new

10.7 Remove the vibration damper-tocrankshaft bolt (arrow) - it's very tight, so use a six-point socket and a breaker bar

the brakes while an assistant removes the that

to replace

they're reinstalled

2D-9

and 3100 V6 engines

in their original

to

prior to installation.

The remaining

steps are the

installation

reverse of removal.

10

Run the engine and check

10

Vibration

damper

-

for

oil

leaks.

removal and

installation

Refer

to illustrations 10.7, 10.8

and

10.9

Caution: On some engines a rubber sleeve connects the inertia weight to the vibration damper. Take care when working on the

Use a puller that bolts to the damper hub; jaw-type pullers damage the vibration damper

10.9

10.8

vibration

will

The damper keyway must be aligned

with the woodruff key (arrow) crankshaft nose

in

the

2D-10

Chapter 2 Part

D

2.8L, 3.1 L

and 3100 V6 engines equivalent to both sides of the new gasket, then position the gasket on the engine block (the dowel pins should keep it in place). Attach the cover to the engine and

install

the bolts.

Apply sealant to the bottom of the gasket. Follow a criss-cross pattern when tightening the fasteners and work up to the torque listed

20

in

this

21

Chapter's Specifications

The remainder

in

three steps.

of installation

is

the

reverse of removal.

22

Add

check

13 11.2 Carefully pry the old seal out of the timing chain cover - don't damage the

crankshaft

11

illustrations 11.2

Remove

oil

seal

-

and 11.3 damper

the vibration

Note how the seal

one must be facing the

is

(see Sec-

- the new same depth and

installed

installed to the

same way.

Carefully pry the

oil

seal

out of the cover with a seal puller or a large

Be very careful not to distort the cover or scratch the crankshaft! Wrap electrician's tape around the tip of the screwdriver to avoid damage to screwdriver (see illustration).

the crankshaft.

3 Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal, then install it in the cover with the lip (spring side) facing IN. Drive the seal into place (see illustration) with a large socket

mer

(if

a large socket

and a ham-

isn't available,

a piece

tie

it

aside.

necessary, remove the crankshaft assembly from the timing chain cover (see Chapter 6). 16 Remove the timing chain cover-toengine block bolts (see illustration). Note that some of the bolts require T-40 and T-50 15

Torx bits for removal. Separate the cover from the engine. If 17 it's stuck, tap it with a soft-face hammer, but don't try to pry

18

4

12

is

at the

proper depth.

Reinstall the vibration

damper.

Timing chain cover

-

removal and

installation illustrations 12.5

and

12.

illustrations 13.3a

and 13.3b

Inspection The timing chain should be replaced new one if the engine has high mileage, the chain has visible damage, or total freeplay midway between the sprockets 1

with a

exceeds one-inch. timing chain

may

Failure to replace a

result in erratic

formance, loss of power and decreased fuel mileage. Loose chains can "jump" timing. In the worst case, chain "jumping" or breakage will result in severe engine damage.

Removal

it

Remove the timing

chain cover (see Sec-

and loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt(s) two turns but do not remove them. Note: Earlier models use three bolts to retain the camshaft sprocket while later models use

a single bolt to retain the camshaft sprocket. Temporarily install the vibration damper 3 bolt and turn the crankshaft with the bolt to

marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets (see illustrations). On early models the timing marks should be at the top (12 o'clock position). On later models align the timing

off.

Use a gasket scraper

2

tion 12)

to

remove

all

traces of old gasket material and sealant from the cover and engine block. The cover is made of aluminum, so be careful not to nick or gouge it. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. 19 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant or

when number

1

piston

is

at

TDC, the

crankshaft sprocket timing mark should align at the 12 o'clock position with the mark on the bottom of the chain tensioner plate, and in

the camshaft sprocket

16

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Loosen, but do not remove, the water 2 pump pulley bolts, then remove the serpentine drivebelt (see Chapter 1). Remove the water pump pulley (see 3

Chapter 3). Remove the vibration damper (see Sec4 tion 10).

Unbolt the drivebelt tensioner (see illusand idler, if equipped. Drain the coolant and engine oil (see

tration)

6 Chapter 1). 7 Remove the alternator and loosen the

The drivebelt tensioner is secured to the timing chain cover by a bolt (arrow)

12.5

worn

engine per-

Disconnect the negative battery cable 1 from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be

5

-

installation

the small hole

Refer to

engine and

If

position sensor

enters the

Make sure the seal bore squarely and stop when the

start the

hammer

mounting bracket (see Chapter 5). Unbolt the power steering pump (if 8 equipped) and tie it aside (see Chapter 10). Leave the hoses connected. Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate cover 9 below the transaxle. 1 Remove the starter (see Chapter 5). 1 Remove the oil pan (see Section 14). Disconnect the coolant hoses from the 12 fill pipe and water pump. 13 Unbolt the spark plug wire shield at the water pump. Disconnect the canister purge hose and 14

of pipe will also work). front face

seal into place with a

and coolant,

Timing chain and sprockets inspection, removal and

Refer to

tion 10).

2

new

large socket and

the process

Crankshaft front replacement

Refer to 1

in

11.3 Drive the

oil

for leaks.

12.16 Timing chain cover bolt locations (arrows)

D

Chapter 2 Part

2.8L, 3.1 L

2D-11

and 3100 V6 engines

ported from above with an engine support (see illustration). Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting battery. Remove the serpentine drivebelt (see 2 Chapter 1). 3 Remove the air conditioning compressor, and the compressor bracket if equipped. 4 On the 31 00, remove the electric cooling fixture

Camshaft aprxKket locator hole (A)

fan assemblies.

Raise the front of the vehicle and place it 5 securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels to keep it from rolling off the stands. Remove the lower splash pan and drain the engine oil (refer to

13.3a On early models the timing marks (arrows) on the sprockets should be at the

top (12 o'clock position) - a straight line should pass through the camshaft sprocket timing mark, the center of the camshaft, the crankshaft sprocket timing mark and the center of the crankshaft should be at the 6 o'clock position, aligned mark in the top of the chain

13.3b On later models the timing marks on the sprockets should align as shown a straight line should pass through the center of the camshaft, camshaft sprocket timing hole (A), the upper mark on the tensioner (B), the lower mark on the tensioner (C), the crankshaft sprocket timing mark (D) and the center of the crankshaft

with the timing

tensioner plate.

Remove

the camshaft sprocket bolts. Do not turn the camshaft in the process (if you do, realign the timing marks before the

4

bolts are removed).

Use two

5

large screwdrivers to carefully

pry the camshaft sprocket off the camshaft dowel pin. Slip the timing chain and camshaft

sprocket

off

7

them

to the torque listed in this

Chap-

Lubricate the chain and sprocket with clean engine oil. Install the timing chain cover 12

(see Section

13

1 2).

The remaining

Inspect the timing chain damper (guide) cracks and wear and replace it if neces-

The damper is mounted in between the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets and is held to the engine block by two bolts (see sary.

illustrations13.3a or 13.3b).

ion stub shaft to avoid damage to the steering gear and intermediate shaft. 8 Remove the transaxle mount to frame retaining nuts (see Section 18), then

ter's Specifications.

installation

steps are the

reverse of removal.

the engine.

Timing chains and sprockets should be replaced in sets. If you intend to install a new timing chain, remove the crankshaft sprocket with a puller and install a new one. Be sure to align the key in the crankshaft with the keyway in the sprocket during installation.

6

for

tighten

Chapter 1 if necessary). 6 On the 3100, remove the front exhaust pipe and disconnect the connector from the oil level sensor at the bottom of the oil pan. Then remove the transaxle to oil pan braces, if equipped. 7 Remove the steering gear pinch bolt (see Chapter 10). Caution: Be sure to separate the steering gear from the rack and pin-

the engine-to-frame

mount

remove

retaining nuts.

On 2.8L and 3.1 L engines remove the 9 engine mount bracket (horse shoe type bracket) from the front of the engine block (see Section 1 8). 10 Remove the flywheel/driveplate lower cover.

14

Oil

Refer to

pan

-

removal and

illustrations 14. 14, 14.

installation

15a and

14.

15b

On some early models with automatic transaxle, it may be necessary to remove the transaxle (see Chapter 7) to make clearance Note:

for oil

pan removal.

Removal

1

Remove the

1

Place a floor jack under the frame front

starter (see

Chapter

5).

center crossmember.

do not remove) the rear suspension frame bolts, then remove the front frame bolts and lower the 13

Loosen

(but

drivetrain/front

front of the frame.

14 On 31 00 engines remove the front engine mount from the oil pan (see illustration). On models equipped with an oil level 15

Disconnect the negative cable from the 1). Note: The following procedure requires that the engine be sup-

sensor in the oil pan, disconnect the electrical connector at the sensor and remove the sen-

14.1 Support the engine with an engine support fixture and chains to the front and rear engine lifting eyes - these tools can be rented

14.14 The front engine mount (A) Is between the front of the oil pan and the chassis - remove the bolts (arrows) holding the bracket to the oil pan

1

battery (see Chapter

Clean the timing chain and sprockets

8

with solvent and dry

them with compressed Warning: l/Vear eye protection when using compresaed air. 9 Inspect the components for wear and damage. Look for teeth that are deformed, chipped, pitted and cracked. air

(if

available).

Installation 10 If the camshaft was moved during this procedure, rotate the camshaft to position the dowel pin at 9 o'clock on early models or at 3 o'clock on late models engines. Mesh the timing chain with the camshaft sprocket, then engage it with the crankshaft sprocket. The timing marks should be aligned as shown in illustration 13.3a and 13.3b. Note: If the crankshaft has been disturbed, turn it until the "O" stamped on the crankshaft sprocket is exactly at the top. 1 1 Install the camshaft sprocket bolt(s) and

Chapter 2 Part D

2D-12

On

14.15a

2.8L, 3.1 L

and 3100 V6 engines

14.15b On 3100 engines remove six oil pan side bolts (A indicates three bolts on the radiator side) - also remove the oil filter shield bolts (B) and the nuts and bolts around the perimeter of the oil

2.8L and 3.1 L engines simply remove the bolts around the perimeter of the oil pan

pan sor before attempting to remove the

Remove

oil

pan.

pan bolts and nuts, then carefully separate the oil pan from the block (see illustrations). Note: The oil pan rear side bolts on 3100 engines, are difficult to remove, but a box wrench with the correct offset can the

oil

remove them. Don't pry between the block and the pan or damage to the sealing surfaces could occur and oil leaks may develop. Instead, tap the pan with a soft-face hammer to break the gasket seal. Don't pry between the block and the pan or

damage

to the seal-

Place the

1

and 19

install

oil

pan

in

position

the nuts/bolts finger

on the block

to the torque listed in this Chapter's

in three steps. Note: On 3100 engines be necessary to tighten all the bolts around the perimeter (vertical mounted bolts) of the oil pan first and tighten the side bolts (horizontal mounted bolts) last. 20 The remaining steps are the reverse of

will

ing surfaces could occur

the removal procedure.

develop. Instead,

and oil leaks may tap the pan with a soft-face

21

hammer to break

the gasket seal.

mal operating temperature check for leaks.

Refill

the engine with

run

is

it

until

nor-

reached and

pan

is

damage

pump

installed.

Apply a bead of RTV

sealant to the front of the gasket, where contacts the front cover.

it

pump

pump - removal and

Oil

illustration 15.2

oil

illustration 15.2

6

pan (see Section 14). Unbolt the oil pump and lower it from 2 the engine (see illustration). Note: The oil

pump

the

driveshaft

oil

will

oil

pump

A new plastic collar is usually

occur

screen while tuming the

shaft.

then

pump, turn the flat on the mates with the slot in the oil

the

install

it

Make oil

sure the plastic collar

pump pump and

pump-to-oil

install

the

oil

is fit-

driveshaft driveshaft

assembly into the block while engaging the upper end of the oil pump driveshaft into the

Refer to

Remove

there are

driveshaft.

To

5

Refer to

1

If

the plastic col-

not used or is missing, pump dnveshaft and the oil

into the pick-up

pump

joint,

installation

if

included with a new oil pump or driveshaft. 4 Prime the pump by pouring clean engine

ted over the

15

pump.

driveshaft over the

to the oil

will

pump

Clean the pan with solvent and remove all old sealant and gasket material from the block and pan mating surfaces. Clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone and make sure the bolt holes in the block are clear. Check the oil pan flange for distortion, particularly around the bolt holes. If necessary, place the pan on a block of wood and use a hammer to flatten and restore the gasket surface. 1 Always use a new gasket whenever the 1

oil

ters the oil

driveshaft so

Installation

oil

shaft. If the collar is

oil oil,

pump

cracked or missing, replace the shaft new one. Note: The plastic collar cen-

lar is

with a

torque

oil

plastic collar that retains

signs of wear on the shaft or

Specifications. Starting at the center, follow a final

Inspect the ends of the

and the

the driveshaft to the

criss-cross pattern and work up to the

it

it.

driveshaft

tight.

After the fasteners are installed, tighten

them

to rebuild

(C)

come

out with the

pump

as you lower it. It's a rod with a flat-sided portion at each end. 3 If the pump is defective, replace it with a new one - don't reuse the original or attempt

pump

drive.

Install

tighten

it

the

pump mounting

to the torque listed

in this

bolt

and

Chapter's

Specifications.

7

The remainder

assembly

of

is

the

reverse of the removal procedure.

16

Flywheel/driveplate

and

removal

installation

Refer to Part

B and

follow the procedure

outlined there. However, use the bolt torque listed in this

17

Chapter's Specifications.

Rear main

oil

Refer to Part

B and

seal

-

replacement

follow the procedure

outlined there.

18

Engine mounts replacement

Refer to 15.2 Oil

pump mounting

location (arrow)

bolt

18.1

V6 engine torque

strut (front)

-

check and

illustration 18.1

Refer to Part outlined there.

B and

follow the procedure

2E-1

Chapter 2 Part E 3.4 liter V6 engine Contents Section

Section

removal and installation carrier cover - removal and installation Camshafts, lifters, sprockets and oil seals - removal,

12

Oil

pan

1

Oil

pump

inspection and Installation Camshaft timing procedure

13 14 6

Camshaft Camshaft

carrier

-

Crankshaft front oil seal - replacement Crankshaft pulley and vibration damper - removal

and

Cylinder head

5

-

removal and

Drivebelt check, adjustment

See Chapter 2G 16

installation

See Chapter

and replacement

Engine mounts - check and replacement Engine oil and filter change Engine overhaul - general information Engine - removal and installation Exhaust manifolds - removal and installation Flywheel/driveplate - removal and installation General information Intake manifold - removal and installation Intermediate shaft timing belt sprocket and oil seal removal and installation

-

Rear main

installation

Cylinder compression check

removal and

-

1

24 See Chapter 1 See Chapter 2G See Chapter 2G 4 22 1

20

installation

removal, inspection and installation oil

seal

-

replacement

21

23 the vehicle 2 See Chapter 1

Repair operations possible with the engine in Spark plug replacement Timing belt covers - removal and installation 7 Timing belt - inspection, removal and installation 9 Timing belt tensioner plate and actuator- removal and installation 8 Timing belt tensioner pulley and arm assembly - removal 10 and installation Timing chain, sprockets and tensioner - inspection, removal 19 and installation Timing chain cover - removal and installation 18 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston See Chapter 2G locating 15 Valve springs, retainers and seals - replacement See Chapter 3 Water pump - removal and installation

3 -

17

Specifications

General Cylinder

numbers

(drivebelt end-to-transaxle end)

Front bank (radiator side)

Rear bank Fihng order

2-4-6 1-3-5 1-2-3-4-5-6

Camshafts Lobe

lift

Intake

Exhaust Journal diameter 1994 and earlier 1995 and later Journal clearance 1994 and earlier 1995 and later Oil

0.370 0.370

in in 1

0.0015 to 0.0035 0.0019 to 0.0040

backlash length

diameter housing depth housing inner diameter side clearance end clearance Pressure valve-to-bore clearance

25

in in

pump

Gear Gear Gear Gear Gear Gear Gear

4 6 3

2.165 to 2.166 in 2.1643 to 2.154 in

0.0037 to 0.0077 1.199 to 1.200 in 1.498 to 1.500 in 1

-202 to

1

.205

in

1

.504 to

1

.506

in

0.003 to 0.004 in 0.002 to 0.006 in 0.001 5 to 0.0035

©

(3)

®

(2)

(4)

(6)

FRONT OF VEHICLE

in

1996 3.4LV6 engine

Cylinder and coil temninal locations in

2E-2

Chapter 2 Part E

Torque specifications Cam carrier cover bolts Cam carrier-to-cylinder head

liter

V6 engine

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

97 20 96

bolts

Camshaft sprocket bolts Cylinder head bolts First

3.4

in-lb

44

step

Second step

Rotate an additional 90-degrees (1/4-tum)

Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts Nut

1995 and 1996 and Stud

18 116in-lbs 13

earlier later

60

Flywheel/driveplate-to-crankshaft bolts Intake manifold-to-cylinder

Oil

head bolts/nuts

1994 and earlier 1995 1996 and later pan bolts/nuts Pan bolt (two at transaxle end)

30 22 116in-lbs

18 to 20

Others

1994 and 1995 and Oil

89 97

earlier later

in-lbs in-lbs

pump Mounting

bolt

Cover

,

bolt

,

Timing belt cover bolts Timing chain tensioner bolt Vibration

40 to 43 27 89 in-lbs 89 in-lbs 20

,

Drive bolt

damper

-

,

79

bolt

some

exterior of the engine with

General information

degreaser before any work

is

done.

the job easier and help keep

Refer to

is

devoted to

vehicle repair procedures for the 3.4

liter

Depending on the components involved,

in-

V6

it

it

block with six cylinders arranged

in a "V" shape a 60-degree angle between the two banks.

The overhead cam aluminum cylinder heads have two exhaust valves and two intake valves for each cylinder, and have pressed-in valve guides and valve seats. The camshafts are located inside alu-

minum cam

housings that are located on top of each cylinder head. Each cam carrier contains two camshafts, one for the exhaust valves and one for the intake valves. The camshaft thrust plates are at rear of the carriers. The aluminum of the carriers serves as the bearing surface for the camshafts. The engine is easily identified by looking at the designation printed on the fuel rail cover (see illustration). To positively identify this engine, locate the vehicle identification number on the left front corner of the instrument panel. This plate is visible from outside the vehicle (see illustration 1.1 in Chapter 2, is

in

the sequence

the engine designation:

X

= 3.4L

Part

G

information

of this

Chapter. The following

repair

remove the hood

vacuum, exhaust,

If

to

oil

or coolant leaks

replacement, the repairs can generally be done with the engine

1.4 3.4 liter

double overhead V6 engine

cam (DOHC)

procedures are based on the assumption the engine is installed in the vehicle. If the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, many of the steps outlined in this Part of Chapter 2 will not apply. The Specifications included in this Part of Chapter 2 apply only to the procedures contained in this Part. Part G of Chapter 2 contains the Specifications necessary for cylinder head and engine block rebuilding.

2

Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle

Many major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. Clean the engine compartment and the

in

the vehicle.

The

intake

and

exhaust manifold gaskets, timing chain cover gasket, oil pan gasket, crankshaft oil seals and cylinder head gaskets are all accessible with the engine in place. Exterior engine components, such as the intake and exhaust manifolds, the oil pan (and the oil pump), the water pump, the starter motor, the alternator and the fuel system components can be removed for repair

with the engine

in

place.

Since the cylinder heads can be removed without pulling the engine, valve

component

servicing can also be accomplished with the

engine

in

ing chain

the vehicle. Replacement of the tim-

and sprockets

the engine

DOHC V6 engine

concerning engine removal and installation and engine block and cylinder head overhaul can be found in All

helpful to

develop, indicating a need for gasket or seal

carrier

The eighth character

Part B).

may be

improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 1 1 if necessary). Cover the fenders to prevent damage to the paint. Special pads are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

The 3.4L engine became available in 1990 and was produced through 1996; is utilized in the Pontiac Grand Prix, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and the Chevrolet Lumina models only. This engine utilizes a cast-iron engine.

at

make

out of the

intemal areas of the engine.

illustration 1.4

This Part of Chapter 2

dirt

type of It'll

in

is

also possible with

the vehicle.

In extreme cases caused by a lack of necessary equipment, repair or replacement of piston rings, pistons, connecting rods and rod bearings is possible with the engine in the vehicle. However, this practice is not recommended because of the cleaning and prepa-

ration

work

that

nents involved.

must be done

to the

compo-

Chapter 2 Part E 3.4

3.4

Thermostat housing outlet (arrow)

Intake manifold

Exhaust manifold Exhaust crossover pipe Engine torque strut

2 3

ter 3).

illustration 3.4

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature Is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Relieve the fuel system pressure, then 2 remove the fuel rail (see Chapter 4). Note: When disconnecting fuel line fittings, be prepared to catch some fuel with a rag, then cap 1

the fittings to prevent contamination.

3

Remove Remove

the plenum (see Chapter

cleaner to remove any gasket material that falls into the intake ports or the lifter valley. 9 Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt holes, if necessary,

then use compressed air (if available) to remove the debris from the holes. Waming: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes when using compressed air^. 10 Install the intake manifold gasket (see illustration 3.8). 1

Carefully lower the manifold into place

and

install

the mounting bolts/nuts finger Note: To ease reassembly, you can temporarily install two M8 x 1.25 x 50

tight. 4).

4 the radiator hose from the thermostat housing (see illustration).

Remove the connector from the coolant 5 temperature sensor. 6 Remove the heater pipe nut at the throttle body. Remove the manifold mounting bolts 7 and nuts, then separate the manifold from the

mm

bolts, with

heads, as damage to the soft aluminum gasket sealing surfaces may result. If you're

a new manifold, transfer and sensors to the new manifold. installing

all

fittings

Installation Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads, block and manifold must be perfectly clean when the manifold is installed. Gasket

washers,

in

the vertical holes in the

intake manifold. This will help align the intake

bolt in

grommet bores

with the threaded holes

the cylinder heads.

Tighten the mounting bolts/nuts in two steps, working from the center out, in a circuall at the torque listed Chapter's Specifications. If necessary, remove the two bolts from the vertical holes in the intake manifold. 13 Install the remaining components in the

lar

pattern, until they're

this

reverse order of removal.

Exhaust manifolds

removal and

Front Manifold

scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires dis-

oil

on the mating sur-

remove the

installation

Refer to

illustration

remove

mounting nuts, then exhaust manifold from the

the

front

cylinder head.

Clean the mating surfaces to remove

7

all

traces of old gasket material, then inspect the

manifold for distortion and cracks.

Warpage

can be checked with a precision straightedge held against the mating flange. If a feeler gauge thicker than 0.030-inch can be inserted between the straightedge and flange surface, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 8 Place the manifold in position with a new gasket and install the mounting nuts finger

tight.

Starting in the middle and working out toward the ends, tighten the mounting nuts a little at a time until all of them are at the

torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 10 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 1 Start the engine and check for exhaust leaks between the manifold and cylinder

pipe.

Rear manifold Refer

removal solvents are available at most auto and may be helpful when removing old gasket material that's stuck to the heads and manifold (since the manifold is made of aluminum, aggressive scraping can cause damage). Be sure to follow the directions printed on the container. Lift the old gasket off. Use a gasket 8

when the manifold is installed, oil or vacuum leaks may develop. Use a vacuum

Remove

6

cars,

air pipe.

head and between the manifold and exhaust

14 Change the oil and filter and refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1). Start the engine and check for leaks.

parts stores

there's old sealant or

On manual transmission

5

the front hose from the

9

12

in

engine. Don't pry between the manifold and

faces

4.15 The exhaust crossover pipe (upper arrow) attaches to each exhaust manifold with nuts (lower arrows)

Remove the exhaust crossover pipe 3 from the manifold (see illustration). 4 Remove the cooling fans (see Chap-

Removal Refer to

2E-3

the exhaust crossover pipe from the manifold

1

removal and

V6 engine

Remove

4.3

installation

liter

4.3

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be 1

connecting the battery. Remove the air cleaner assembly (see 2 Chapter 4).

to illustration 4.

15

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be 12

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the batter/. 1 Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly.

14

If

the car

is

equipped with an automatic

rear cam carrier (see Section 12). 15 Remove the exhaust crossover pipe from the manifold (see illustration).

transaxle,

1

remove the

Remove

the

EGR

manifold (see Chapter

tube from the exhaust 4).

2E-4

Chapter 2 Part E

3.4

liter

V6 engine

17 Set the parking brake, block the rear wheels and raise the front of the car supporting it securely on jackstands. 1 Remove the front exhaust pipe and catalytic converter assembly. 19 Remove the oxygen sensor.

On manual

20

transaxle cars,

remove the

exhaust pipe front heat shield. 21

If

necessary, remove the rear alternator

bracket.

On

22

automatic transaxle cars, remove the

dipstick tube.

23

If

necessary, remove the steering gear

intermediate shaft.

24 Remove the exhaust manifold nuts. 25 If necessary, support the engine from underneath, remove the rear cradle bolts, then lower the engine and remove the steering gear heat shield.

Remove

26 27

the exhaust manifold.

Clean the mating surfaces to remove

5.7 Have an assistant hold the ring gear with a large screwdriver as the pulley-tocrankshaft bolt is loosened/tightened

all

traces of old gasket material, then inspect the

manifold for distortion and cracks.

Warpage

can be checked with a precision straightedge held against the mating flange. If a feeler gauge thicker than 0.030-inch can be inserted between the straightedge and flange surface, take the manifold to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing. 28 Place the manifold in position with a new gasket and install the mounting nuts finger

tight.

Chapter's Specifications. 30 Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. 31

Start the engine

and check

for

exhaust

pipe.

5

Crankshaft pulley and vibration damper - removal and installation

Remove the pulley-to-damper bolts, 8 then remove the pulley from the damper. Pull

the

damper

off

the crankshaft with a

bolt-type puller (see illustration). Leave the

Woodruff key

in

place

in

the end of the

in

the

oil

-

seal

Refer to

illustrations 6.2

Remove

1

damper

tion

and 6.3

the crankshaft pulley

(see Section

and

vibra-

5).

Note how the seal is installed - the new one must be installed to the same depth and 2

same way.

Carefully pry the

oil

seal

out of the cover with a seal puller (see illustration) or a large screwdriver.

Installation 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to apply moly-base grease to the seal contact surface of the damper hub (if it isn't lubricated, the seal lip could be damaged and oil leakage would result). Align the hub keyway with the Woodruff key. 1 Tighten the damper-to-crankshaft bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifi12

Install its

ful

Be very

care-

not to distort the cover or scratch the

crankshaft! the

Wrap

electrician's tape

the screwdhver to avoid

tip of

around

damage

to

the crankshaft.

Apply clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal, 3

then

install

it

in

the cover with the

lip

(spring

side) facing IN. Drive the seal into place (see

socket and a hama piece of pipe will also work). Make sure the seal enters the bore squarely; stop when the front illustration) with a large

cations.

the pulley on the

bolts to

37

damper and

ft-lb.

Removal illustrations 5. 7

Crankshaft front replacement

6

facing the

crankshaft.

torque

Refer to

parts

reverse order of removal.

point socket.

listed in this

leaks between the manifold and cylinder head and between the manifold and exhaust

Reinstall the remaining

13

removes the crankshaft bolt (see illustration). On manual transaxle equipped models, engage high gear and apply the brakes while an assistant removes the damper bolt. Note: The bolt is normally very tight, so use a large breaker bar and a sixassistant

9

29 Starting in the middle and working out toward the ends, tighten the mounting nuts a little at a time until all of them are at the torque

Use a puller that bolts to the vibration damper hub; jaw type pullers will damage the vibration damper

5.9

mer

(if

a large socket

isn't available,

and 5.9

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be 1

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery.

2 Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel. Raise the vehicle and support it securely 3

on jackstands. 4 Remove the

right front

wheel.

5 Remove the right front inner fender splash shield. Remove the serpentine drivebelt (see 6 Chapter 1). 7 On automatic transaxle equipped models, remove the driveplate cover and position a large screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the crankshaft from turning while an

6.2 Carefully pry the old seal out with a

seal removal tool (shown) or a large screwdriver

6.3 Drive the

new

seal into place with a

large socket

and hammer

Chapter 2 Part E 3.4

liter

V6 engine

2E-5

To check the camshaft timing

9.3

belt length, insert a

small ruler

between the tensioner pulley

and the front cover flange, and measure the depth Tensioner

1

pulley

2

Intermediate shaft sprocket

8.8 Timing belt tensioner side plate (arrow)

there is,

face

is

4

Reinstall the vibration

at the proper depth.

damper and

crankshaft pulley.

Remove

-

removal and

installation

Front and rear covers Remove only).

remove the

Remove Remove

3

the spark plug

w/ire

On 1996 and

cover

later

Remove Remove

5

and the coil mountaccess the rear cover.

6

w^ith

this the

Installation

Remove

Lightly in

ECM hamess

cover,

Chap-

the serpentine belt (see belt tensioner.

the clip holding the

power

steering line at the altemator.

7

Remove

8

Installation is the reverse of removal.

the cover bolts, then the cover.

clamp the body

a vise with

rod

of the tensioner tip

facing

down.

not position the actuator in a manner that will cause damage to the rod tip or the rubber boot. 1 Leave the actuator in this position for at least five minutes to allow the oil to drain into the boot end. 12 Find a standard paper clip - one with no - and straighten it out so that you have a length of about one inch. Form the remaining portion of the paper clip into a

serrations

installed,

Be sure the actuator

its

base.

can rotate under not

its

then

own

fit

free

and

weight. Note:

Do

the bushings. Caution:

oil

in its

bushing.

20

Install

the actuator

is

is

Make

sure the

properly seated

the tensioner plate assembly and

tighten the bolts to the torque listed

in this

Part's Specifications.

Make sure the actuator rod tip is seated the tensioner pulley socket, then remove the paper clip; this will allow the actuator to 21 in

extend to its normal position. 22 Gently rotate the pulley counterclockwise into the belt. 23 Remove the clamps from the sprockets

and belt. 24 Seat the

belt by rotating the engine turns clockwise (the direction of crankshaft rotation). Caution: Do not rotate

three

full

the engine counterclockwise.

marks on the crankshaft and timing chain cover, then inspect the camshaft timing marks to be sure the 25

Align the timing

pulley

cam

timing

26

Reassembly

is

correct. is

reverse of disassembly.

loop.

13

Remove

the rubber end plug from the

rear of the actuator.

8

its

Do

Caution:

the covers.

the

10

actuator

the retaining bolts.

and the serpentine

ter 1)

its

(front

models

Center Cover 4

do

and properly onto

tensioner's tapered fulcrum

the tensioner actuator from

ignition coils

ing bracket to

2

there

a rotating motion. Note: When you tensioner will extend to its maximum travel. Caution: A tapered bushing is positioned between the actuator and the mounting base; be careful not to lose it when removing the actuator.

base

1

If

(see illustration).

Timing belt covers

cover

the sprocket.

the retaining bolts from the tensioner side plate, then remove the side plate

9

7

in

Remove

8 the

no deflection

is

set up your clamp again.

Do

Timing belt tensioner plate and actuator - removal and

plug.

14

Push your paper

installation

hole

in

Timing belt

not remove the vent

clip

and

-

inspection, removal

installation

through the center

the vent plug, and on into the pilot

Refer to

illustration

9.3

hole.

15

Retract the tensioner plunger by push-

Removal

ing the rod tip against a table top while turn-

Refer to

ing the

1

2

illustration 8.8

Remove Remove

the plenum (see Chapter

4).

clockwise.

the serpentine belt (see

Chap-

16

If

necessary,

remove 4

When

at the rear of the actuator

move

the

ECM

aside, then

mounting bracket. Remove the timing belt covers (see Secits

is

fully

screw slot with the vent hole and push the paper clip into the slot to retain the plunger. 1

If

oil

Remove

1

tion

was

lost

from the tensioner,

fill

it

to

tion 7).

the bottom of the plug hole with a synthetic

Align the timing marks (see Section 1 4). 5 6 Loosely clamp the tvjo camshaft sprockets on each side of the engine together using clamping pliers or equivalent. 7 If the timing belt is not going to be removed, use a C-clamp and a protective cloth to hold the belt in position on the rear exhaust cam sprocket. Note: Make sure

5W-30 engine oil. Note: Fill the tensioner only when it is fully retracted and the paper clip is installed.

18 Install the rubber end plug; be sure it is snapped fully into place and fits flush against the body of the tensioner. Check to be sure that all bushings and 19 the holes they fit into are in good condition

the timing belt covers (see Sec-

7).

2

the tensioner plunger

retracted, align the

ter 1).

3

screw

Inspection

Inspect the timing belt for signs of wear,

such as cracks or nation.

Make

tears,

and

for

oil

contami-

sure the belt's teeth are

Check also for around one edge of the condition.

in

good

wear which would

fraying or for belt,

indicate misalignment of cam/belt drive

com-

ponents. Replace the belt as necessary. Check the camshaft belt length. Insert a 3 very thin, narrow ruler under the tensioner pulley until it contacts the tensioner base

(see illustration), if the belt is too long, the ruler will drop into the groove in tne tensioner bracket. Check this by recording tne length indicated on the

edge

ruler.

If

the depth from the base of the ten-

of the pulley to the

2E-6

Chapter 2 Part E

3.4

10.4 After you get the pivot bolt started, rotate the arm counterclockwise until the square lug is at the 6 o'clock position

sioner measures 42.6

OK.

of the belt

is

or more,

means

in

It

mm

it

11.3

V6 engine

Remove

the camshaft carrier cover bolts with a socket, ratchet and extension

or less, the length

the ruler

If

liter

shows

dropped

45.1

into the

mm

groove

the tensioner bracket, indicating that the

belt is

too long and must be replaced.

11.11

Make

sure

bolt isolators

Removal 4

(arrows) are fully

Remove

pulley (see Section

5

If

installing the

8).

you're going to reuse the belt, mark

the direction of rotation on the

6

seated before cover

the timing belt tensioner and

Remove

belt.

the belt by sliding

it

carefully off

the sprockets and pulleys.

Caution:

Do

not

belt or you will

kink, fold, twist

or pry on the

cause damage.

arm counterclockwise until the square lug (see illustration) is at the 6 O'clock position. Note: The pivot bushing and tube should be clean, but should not be rotate the

Installation 7 Start at the intermediate shaft sprocket (see illustration 9.3) and route the belt around the other sprockets or pulleys in a counterclockwise direction. Note: Make sure you accumulate slack in the belt as you go.

complete the procedure by following steps 20 through 26 of Section 8. 8

Install

the tensioner assembly and

lubncated.

5

37 6

Tighten the tensioner pulley pivot bolt to (50 Nm).

ft-lb

Install

the timing belt tensioner plate and

actuator (see Section

6

the rear timing belt cover (see

7).

7 Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs (see Chapter 1). Note: Be sure each wire is labeled before removal to ensure

correct reinstallation.

8

Remove

the breather hose from the

cover.

9

8).

Remove

Section

Remove

the carrier cover bolts, then

remove the cover. Note:

If

the cover sticks to

the cylinder head, use a block of 1 1

10

Timing belt tensioner pulley and arm assembly - removal and

Camshaft carrier cover removal and installation

hammer to dislodge come loose, pry on it

it.

If

wood and a

the cover

carefully,

still

won't

but don 't dis-

tort the sealing flange.

10

Removal

installation

Remove

the gasket

and 0-rings from

the cover.

Front cover Refer to

Removal

1

Remove

the timing belt tensioner plate and actuator (see Section 8). 1

2

Remove

the tensioner pulley (see illus-

tration 9.3). Note: The pivot bushing inside

the pulley can

fall

Hold

out.

it

in

place with

tape or a magnet.

Note: The timing belt should be 3

install

Refer

to Illustration 11.11

11

Remove the spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Note: Be sure each wire is labeled before removal to ensure correct rein-

When

installing the cover retaining bolts, be sure the bolt Isolators (see illustration) are fully seated in the cover, then tighten the

stallation.

bolts to

2

Installation is the reverse of removal.

89

Ib-in.

Remove

the carrier cover bolts (see illustration), then remove the cover. Note: If

illustration 10.4

before you

the breather hose from the

cover.

3

Installation Refer to

Installation

illustration 11.3

Remove

In

place

the pulley assembly.

Use a magnet

carefully,

or tape to hold the ten-

sioner pulley's pivot tube

the pulley into position.

in

place while you

Remove

the

magnet

the cover sticks to the cylinder head, use a block of wood and a hammer to dislodge it. If the cover still won't come loose, pry on it

fit

4

but don 't distort the sealing flange. the gasket and 0-rings from

Remove

Camshaft

carrier

-

removal and

installation

Removal

the cover.

Front camshaft carrier

Rear Cover

Refer to

or

tape and thread the pivot bolt into it's hole. 4 After you get the pivot bolt started.

12

5

Remove

the plenum (see Chapter

4).

1

illustration

Remove

12.10

the front camshaft carrier cover

Chapter 2 Part E 3.4

liter

V6 engine

2E-7 Inspection Check for damage or pitting on the camshaft lobes. Check the nose of the camshaft for brinelling. Check the camshaft journals inside the carrier for wear or damage. For camshaft lobe lift Inspection and 9

12.10 Camshaft carrier with cover

removed. The thrust plate

journal diameter inspection, refer to Part G,

cover is the "cap" at the

Section 13. For

lifter

inspection, refer to Part

C, Section 9.

bacl( of the

housing (arrow)

Installation Caution: When installing cise care to avoid

(see Section 11).

Remove Remove

2

3 4

the timing belt (see Section

9).

the exhaust crossover pipe.

Drain the coolant

and remove the upper

radiator hose.

able, obtain similar tools

and adapt them

for

this application.

5 Remove the heater pipe hose at the plenum. Remove the front exhaust manifold (see 6 Section 4). 7 Remove the engine torque strut (see

Remove the front engine coolant pipe. 8 Install fuel line 9 hoses under the camshafts and between the lifters to hold the lifters in place when the carrier is removed. Note: You will need 6 lengths of hose. On the exhaust side the hose dimensions should be inch.

Removal Remove

1

On

the intake side the hose

the

cam

carrier

Sec-

(see

tion 12).

Remove

2

illustration 4.3).

6x3/16

tools, camshaft timing clamps, camshaft sprocket holding tool and camshaft and intermediate shaft sprocket remover, are not avail-

the

housing. Note:

lifters

Keep

from the

the

lifters in

can be replaced

that they

cam

carrier

order so

in their original

3

Turn the camshafts so the

timing

clamp

Step 9

tool (see

in

Section

4

Remove

Use

special sprocket holding tool to hold the

the camshaft sprocket bolts.

1 1

).

inch.

14

Remove

bolts,

the camshaft carrier mounting then remove the cam carrier (see illus-

tration 12.10).

Refer to

illustrations 14. la

and

14.

this application.

ring

from the sprocket

7

Remove

Remove

the

camshaft thrust

plate

the timing clamp, then remove

the camshafts by carefully withdrawing them

through the back of the cam carrier. Caution: Be sure you don't damage the camshaft journals inside the carrier

when you remove

the

camshafts.

8

Remove

the seals from the carrier by

them it out with a screwCaution: The aluminum seal seating

Some

and procedures are If you suspect that the camshaft timing is out of adjustment, check to see if the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets are properly aligned when the engine is at top dead center (TDC) on the number 1 cylinder's exhaust 1

special tools

required to adjust the camshaft timing.

carefully prying

stroke.

driver.

marks should be aligned (see illustrations). If the timing marks are not aligned as shown.

surface

in

the carrier

is

easily

damaged.

When

at #1

TDC

exhaust, the timing

14.1a Timing marks at #1 TDC on exhaust stroke

Installation 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. Caution: Before installing the cam carrier, be sure to remove any oil that seeped into the

cam

carrier-to-cylinder

13

Camshaft,

head

bolt holes.

1

Camshaft sprocket timing

marks (front bank shown), tvlake

oil

seal

-

lb

12.10).

6

12 Remove the timing belt (see Section 9). 13 Install fuel line hoses under the camshafts and between the lifters to hold the lifters in place when the carrier is removed (see Step 9). Note: You will need 6 lengths of hose. On the exhaust side, the hose dimensions should be 6 x 3/16 inch. On the intake side, the hose dimensions should be 3 x 5/32

Camshaft timing procedure

cover, then the thrust plate (see illustration

flat

bore.

(see Section

14

Note: This procedure will require special tools available at automotive tool companies and some auto part stores. If the specialty tools, camshaft timing clamps, camshaft sprocket holding tool and camshaft and intermediate shaft sprocket remover, are not available, obtain similar tools and adapt them for

then remove the

the rear camshaft carrier cover

11 The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to check cam timing after reassembly and before starting the engine (see Section 14).

12).

tion).

Remove

prior to installation.

"flats" are

facing up, then install the special camshaft

sprockets while you loosen the bolts. 5 Remove the sprockets with a puller,

1 1

seal.

Note: Goaf the camshaft lobes and journals with moly-base grease or engine assembly lube prior to installation. When installing the thrust plate, be sure the arrow points up. 10 Install the camshaft seal using a large socket and a hammer (if a large socket isn't available, a piece of pipe will also work). Make sure the seal enters the bore squarely; stop when the front face is at the same depth as the original seal was. Note: Coaf the seal with clean engine oil or multi-purpose grease

positions.

dimensions should be 3 x 5/32 inch. 10 Remove the cam carrier mounting bolts, then remove the cam carrier (see illustra-

Rear camshaft carrier

the camshaft, exer-

damaging the

lifters,

sprockets and

removal, inspection and

installation

aligned this way. Intermediate shaft sprocket

timing

Note: This procedure will require special tools available at automotive tool companies and some auto part stores. If the specialty

sure the

camshafts are

mark

Engine front cover mark

Chapter 2 Part E

2E-8

3.4

liter

V6 engine

if the cause is a slipped the belt has slipped, find the cause and replace the belt as required (see Section 9 for belt inspection and replacement). If the belt is good and you suspect the

to determine

first try

timing belt.

If

camshafts are out of time, they will have to checked and/or adjusted as follows. Note: The following procedure is based on the tim-

and tensioner already being in place on the engine. Turn the camshafts so the "flats" are 2 facing up, then install the timing clamps (see

ing belt

Section

13).

Loosen the camshaft sprockets bolts so 3 the sprockets can "freewheel." Use special camshaft timing clamp tools to hold the sprockets while you loosen the bolts. Position the crankshaft timing mark at 4 the

5

TDC If

position (see illustration 14.1b).

necessary, scribe

new

timing marks

on the camshaft sprockets using a straightedge and a scribe, and remove the old timing marks. Tighten the sprocket bolts at the rear 6 bank camshafts and remove the timing clamp. Note: The "running torque" (the torque required to turn the bolt before it is seated) should be 44-66 Ib-ft. If the running torque

is

either

more or less than this specifishim ring and lock ring

cation, replace the

and inspect the camshaft for brinelling or damaged threads. The sprocket bolt is fully seated when the edge of the lock ring is flush with the sprocket.

Turn the crankshaft 360 degrees and The camshafts on the rear bank should now turn with the crankshaft, while the camshafts sprockets on the front bank should still free7

realign the crankshaft timing mark. Note:

wheel.

Repeat steps 5 and 6 on the front bank. Note: When the cam timing procedure is complete, the position of the timing flats on the front bank of camshafts should differ from those of the rear bank camshafts by 180 8

degrees.

15

15.4 This

what the

typical air

hose

14.1b When the camshaft and intermediate sprocket timing marks are aligned as shown in figure 14.1a, the crank timing mark should be aligned with the pointer on the front cover (arrow) the affected cylinder

is

at

top dead center.

If

stem seals, begin with cylinder number one and work on the valves for one cylinder at a time. Move you're replacing

all

of the valve

pressure from retaining the valves - a "valve is necessary to correct this problem.

job"

If you don't have access to compressed an alternative method can be used. Position the piston at a point just before TDC on the compression stroke, then feed a long piece of nylon rope through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chamber. Be sure to leave the end of the rope hanging out

7

air,

can be removed

from cylinder-to-cylinder following the firing order sequence (see this Chapter's Specifi-

of the engine so

cations).

of rotation (clockwise) until slight resistance

spark plug hole (see illustration) and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Note: Many cylinder compression gauges utilize a screw-in fitting that may work

4

Thread an adapter

into the

with your air hose quick-disconnect

it

Rotate the crankshaft

in

is felt.

Stuff shop rags into the cylinder head holes above and below the valves to prevent parts and tools from falling into the engine,

8

then use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers (see illustration) with small

fitting.

Apply compressed air to the cylinder. Warning: The piston may be forced down by compressed air, causing the crankshaft to turn suddenly. If the wrench used when positioning the number one piston at TDC is still

easily.

the normal direction

needle-nose

pliers or

it

a magnet. Remove the spring retainer and valve 9 spring, then remove the valve guide seal. 10 Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release

could cause damage or injury when the crankshaft moves. 6 The valves should be held in place by

the air pressure. Note: If a rope was used instead of air pressure, turn the crankshaft slightly in the direction opposite r,ormal rota-

5

attached to the bolt

the

air

are

in

pressure.

If

in

the crankshaft nose,

the valve faces or seats may prevent air

poor condition, leaks

tion.

11

Inspect the valve stem for damage.

Valve springs, retainers and seals -

replacement

Refer to

illustrations 15.4, 15.8

and

15.

16 5.8 Typical engine valves

Note: Broken valve springs and defective valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder head. Two special tools and a compressed air source are normally required to perform this operation, so read Section carefully and rent or buy the tools before beginning the job. If compressed air isn 't available, a length of nylon

through

and related components

this

rope can be used falling into 1

is

adapter that threads into the spark plug hole looks like - they're commonly available at auto parts stores

to

keep the valves from

the cylinder during this procedure.

Remove

the

cam

carrier

(see

Sec-

tion 12).

Remove the spark plugs from the cylin2 ders which have the defective components. If all of the valve stem seals are being replaced, all of the spark plugs should be removed. Turn the crankshaft until the piston in 3

O

©

(b

©

1

f\GSp&tS

2

Retainer

3 4

Oil shield

5

0-ring stem seal Umbrella or positive

6

type seal Spring and damper

7

Intake valve

8

Retainer/rotator

9

Exhaust valve

Chapter 2 Part E 3.4

liter

2E-9

V6 engine

16.12 Position

new gasket over the dowel

the

pins (arrows)

15.16 Keepers don't always stay in place, so apply a small dab of grease to each

one as shown here before installation the grease will hold the keepers in place on the valve stem

Removal 1

Remove

the

cam

carrier

(see

TIGHTENING SEQUENCE

Sec-

tion 12).

Rotate the valve

end

in

for eccentric

stem

indicate the valve

12

Move

the guide and check the

movement, which would is

bent.

the valve up-and-down

in the doesn't bind. If the valve stem binds, either the valve is bent or the guide is damaged. In either case, the head will have to be removed for repair. 13 Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to retain the valve in the closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. If a rope was used instead of air pressure, rotate the crankshaft in the normal

make

guide and

sure

is

felt.

and 15

Lubricate the valve stem with engine install

a

Install

new

oil

valve guide seal.

the spring

in

position over the

valve.

16 Install the valve spring retainer. Compress the valve spring and carefully install the keepers In the groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place if necessary (see illustration).

Remove

the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated.

Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. If a rope was used in place of air pressure, pull it out 17

of the cylinder.

18

Install

the spark plug(s) and hook up the

wire(s).

19

Install

the

cam

Remove

Start and run the engine, then check for leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area.

If your removing the rear remove the electrical connector for the oxygen sensor. 4 If you're removing the front cylinder head, remove the exhaust manifold (see Section 4). If you're removing the rear cylinder head, remove the exhaust crossover pipe, separate the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold and, on manual transmission cars, remove the rear air hose from the air pipe. If you're removing the rear cylinder 5 head, remove the timing belt tensioner

bracket (see Section

6

Lift

removal and

installation

12 and

16.

14

Caution: Allow the engine to cool completely before loosening the cylinder head bolts. Note: On engines with high nriileage and during an overhaul, camshaft lobe height should be checked prior to cylinder head removal (see Part

G

1

4

for instructions).

II

7

671-26-16.14

is felt,

as

to the mating surfaces will result.

head bolts that may have been overiooked, then use a hammer and block of wood to tap up on the head and break the gasket seal. Be careful because there are locating dowels in the block which position each head. As a last resort, pry each head up at the rear comer only and be careful not to

Recheck

damage

10 Check the block and head mating surfaces for nicks, deep scratches and other

damage. removed

for

anything. After removal, place the

head on blocks of wood to prevent damage to the gasket surfaces.

Refer to Part G for cylinder head disassembly, inspection and valve service proce7

dures.

damage

If

with a

may be

1

resistance

don't pry between the head and block

damage

that falls into the cylinders.

ing If

8 HAYNESi

16.14 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence

8).

the head off the engine.

in

sion, sealant

in

slight,

is it's

it

can be

excessive, machin-

of the correct size to

the head bolt holes.

Dirt,

and damaged threads

torque readings. Position the 1 pins

if

the only alternative.

Use a tap

the threads

file;

new gasket over

will

chase corroaffect

the dowel

the block (see illustration). Be sure

the metal tabs between the cylinders are facing up. 1

Carefully position the

head on the block

without disturbing the gasket.

14 Install the bolts and tighten them in the sequence shown (see illustration) to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Then, using the same sequence, turn each bolt the

amount

of angle listed

in

this

Chap-

ter's Specifications.

15

The remaining

installation

steps are the

reverse of removal.

Installation The mating surfaces of each cylinder head and block must be perfectly clean when

illustrations 16.

5

perature sender.

cylinder head,

8

Refer to

3

If you're removing the front cylinder 3 head, remove the oil dipstick tube mounting bolt and the electrical connector for the tem-

oil

Cylinder head

2

tion 3).

carrier.

20

16

6

the intake manifold (see Sec-

it

direction of rotation until slight resistance

14

2

the head

when

the head

is

installed, the

may

and

filter

(see

17

Intermediate shaft timing belt sprocket and oil seal - removal

and

installation

gas-

not seal correctly and leaks may When working on the block, it's a good idea to cover any holes with shop rags to keep debris out of the engine. Use a shop rag or vacuum cleaner to remove any debris ket

develop.

oil

is installed.

9 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of carbon and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there's oil on the mating surfaces

16 Change the engine Chapter 1).

Removal 1

Align the

cam

timing marKs by turning

the engine to cylinder #1

Top Dead Center on

the exhaust stroke, then remove the timing belt (see

Section

9).

2E-10

Chapter 2 Part E 3.4

18.5 Engine

lift

liter

V6 engine

18.16 Unbolt the

bracket (arrow)

air

conditioning compressor and lay it aside, but refrigerant lines (arrow)

DO NOT disconnect the 2

Raise the car and support

it

on jack-

3 4

Remove On cars

ing chain cover.

with automatic transaxle, posi-

42 mm, the tangs are not

gear teeth keep the crankshaft from turning while an assistant removes the intermediate shaft timing belt sprocket bolt (see illustration 9.3). On cars with manual transaxle, engage high gear and apply the brakes while an assistant removes the sprocket bolt. Note: The intermediate shaft timing belt sprocle removed, replace the block 0.002 in (0.050 mm) maximum

limit

limit (thnjst side)

Block deck warpage limit Runout (rear face of block-to-crankshaft centerline)

Pistons and rings Piston diameter

Piston-to-bore clearance Piston ring end

3.6203 to 3.621 (21 -degrees C) 0.0007 to 0.0020

in (91

in

(0.019 to 0.051

0.0138 to 0.0236 0.0157 to 0.0256 0.0157 to 0.0551

in

(0.35 to 0.60

in

(0.40 to 0.65

in

(0.40 to 1.40

.957 to 91 .973

mm) at

mm)

gap

Top compression ring Second compression ring Oil control ring

mm) mm) mm)

Piston ring side clearance

Top compression VIN VIN

ring

0.00197 to 0.00394 in (0.050 to 0.100 mm) 0.0027 to 0.0047 in (0.070 to 0.120 mm) 0.001 57 to 0.0031 5 in (0.040 to 0.080 mm)

D A

Second compression

ring

Camshaft Lobe

lift

(intake

and exhaust)

VIN D VIN A Journal diameter

0.375 0.410

Number 1 Numbers 2 through

mm) mm)

in

(9.525

in

(10.414

.5720 .3760

in

(39.95 to 39.93

in

(34.93 to 34.95

Endplay

0.0009 to 0.0088

in

(0.025 to 0.225

Torque specifications**

Ft-lbs

5

Main bearing cap bolts Stepi Step 2 Connecting rod cap nuts Stepi Step 2

"

Note: Refer to Part

C for additional torque specifications.

;...

1

.5728 to

1

1

.3751 to

1

15 Rotate an additional 90-degrees 18 Rotate an additional 80-degrees

mm) mm) mm)

70-degrees F

Chapter 2 Part

G

General engine overhaul procedures

V6 engines General

RPO

sales

code

2.8

liter

LB6

3.1

liter

LHO

3100

L82

3.4

LQ1 L27 and L36

liter

3800 VI N code 2.8

W

liter

3.1 liter

T (LHO)

3100

M

3.4

X

liter

V

or

(turbo)

L {L27) or K (L36) L67

3800 3800 (supercharged) Displacement 2.8

liter

3.1

liter

173 192 192 204 231

3100 3.4

liter

3800 3800 (supercharged) Cylinder compression pressure Maximum variation between cylinders

cubic inchies cubic inciies cubic inchies

cubic inciies cubic inches

1

100

minimum

psi

30-percent

Firing order

Oil

V6 engines (except 3800) 3800 engines

1-2-3-4-5-8

pressure

15 psi

1-6-5-4-3-2

1100 rpm

at

Cylinder head Warpage limit 3.4

liter

engine

Others 'If

more than 0.010

in (0.25

mm) must be removed,

mm)* mm)*

0.004 0.005

in

(0.127

0.029

in

(0.75

0.083 0.106 0.025

in

(2.10

in

(2.70

0.031

in

in (0.1

replace the head

Valves and related components Valve margin width 3.4

liter

mm)

3100 lntal

IMPROPER SEATING

FATIGUE FAILURE

ing face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bear-

ing material will loosen

away from the

in

pieces and tear

steel backing. Short trip driv-

ing leads to corrosion of bearings

SCRATCHES

* DIRT IMBEDDED INTO BEARING MATERIAL

V*

because

engine heat is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases. These products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the bearing material. 7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to bearing failure as well. Tight fitting bearings leave insufficient oil clearance and will result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing which lead to failure. insufficient

n

LACK OF OIL

SCRATCHED BY DIRT

22

Engine overhaul

-

reassembly

sequence RADIUS RIDE

\

EXCESSIVE

| Before beginning engine reassembly, sure you have all the necessary new parts, gaskets and seals as well as the following items on hand: 1

TAPERED JOURNAL

WEAR

make

21 .1 Typical bearing failures

Common hand tools Torque wrench (1/2-inch heated in an oven prior to installation. 10 Refer to Section 21 and examine the main and rod bearing inserts.

21

Main and connecting rod bearings

Refer to

-

inspection

illustration

21.1

in

the engine during assembly, or

through

filters

or the

PCV

it

system.

may pass may get

Piston ring compressor

It

Vibration

and from there into the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine compointo the

oil,

damper installation

Plastigage

Feeler gauges

nents after reconditioning, especially when parts aren't thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often end up embedded in the soft bearing material and are easily recognized. Large particles won't embed in the bearing and will score or gouge

Fine-tooth

file

engine oil Engine assembly lube or moly-base grease Gasket sealant Thread locking compound Nevi/

the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing failure is to clean all

2

illustration).

parts thoroughly and keep everything spot-

following general order:

Bearing failure occurs because of lack presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine and corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it must be corrected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it from happening of lubrication, the

When examining

them from the engine

the bearings, remove

block, the main bearing

caps, the connecting rods and the rod caps and lay them out on a clean surface in the same general position as their location in the

enable you to match any bearing problems with the corresponding

engine. This

Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloadsqueezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage or throw off (from ing (which

again.

3

lessly clean during engine assembly. Frequent and regular engine oil and filter changes are also recommended. 5 Lack of lubrication (or lubrication breakdown) has a number of interrelated causes.

will

excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages, which usually are the result of misaligned oil holes in a bearing shell, will also oil starve a bearing and destroy tion

4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the engine in a variety of ways. It may be left

ing material steel

When

the cause of bearing

crankshaft journal.

is

it.

lack of lubrica-

failure,

the bear-

wiped or extruded from the backing of the bearing. Temperatures is

tool

Short lengths of rubber or plastic hose to fit over connecting rod bolts

Even though the main and connecting 1 rod bearings should be replaced with new ones during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for close examination, as they may reveal valuable information about the condition of the engine (see 2

drive)

Piston ring Installation tool

In

order to save time and avoid prob-

lems, engine reassembly must be

2.2

and

done

in

the

2.5 liter four-cylinder

engine

New

camshaft bearings (must be done by automotive machine shop) Crankshaft and main bearings Piston/connecting rod assemblies

Camshaft and lifters Timing gear, /chain and sprockets Timing gear cover Oil

pump

Oil

pan

and rocker arms and exhaust manifolds

Cylinder head, pushrods Intake

Valve cover Engine rear plate Flywheel/driveplate

G

Chapter 2 Part

When checking piston ring end gap, the ring must be square in the cylinder bore (this is done by pushing the ring down with the top of a piston as shown)

23.3

23.4 With the ring square

engine

der walls by pushing

it

in

Rear main

oil

seal housing

Piston/connecting rod assemblies Oil

pump

Oil

pan

and camshafts

make

Balance shaft (3800 only) oil seal housing Piston/connecting rod assemblies Oil

pan

Camshaft (except SAL) Timing chain and sprockets Timing chain cover Cylinder heads Valve

sure you have the conrect rings before

lifters

the

the ends.

When

performing this operation,

only from the outside

in

Excess end gap

6

(except 3.4L)

file

(see illustration). isn't critical

unless

it's

greater than 0.040-inch. Again, double-check

Rocker arms and pushrods carriers

If

or the ring

Rear main

pump

to this

gap is too small, it must be enlarged ends may come in contact with each other during engine operation, which can cause serious engine damage. The end gap can be increased by filing the ring ends very carefully with a fine file. Mount the file in a vise equipped with soft jaws, slip the ring over the file with the ends contacting the file teeth and slowly move the ring to remove material from 5

Crankshaft and main bearings Intermediate shaft (3.4L only)

Oil

measurement

the

proceeding.

V6 engines

(if

and camshafts

equipped)

(3.4L only)

to

make

slightly

Repeat the procedure for each ring that be installed in the first cylinder and for each ring in the remaining cylinders. Remember to keep rings, pistons and cylinders matched up. Once the ring end gaps have been 8 checked/corrected, the rings can be installed on the pistons. The oil control ring (lowest one on the 9 7

will

Chapter's Specifications. If the gap is larger or smaller than specified, double-check to

Timing chain housing Timing chain and sprockets

gap

ring

To measure the end gap, slip feeler gauges between the ends of the ring until a gauge equal to the gap width is found (see illustration). The feeler gauge should slide between the ring ends with a slight amount of

Compare

If

file in

with the top of the

The

of ring travel.

drag.

Cylinder head

23.5

gauge

should be near the bottom of the cylinder, at the lower limit

the end gap is too small, clamp a a vise and file the ring ends (from the outside in only) to enlarge the

the cylinder, feeler

4

Crankshaft and main bearings

Cam

In

measure the end gap with a

piston (see illustration).

2.3 liter four-cylinder (Quad-4)

2G-27

General engine overhaul procedures

sure you have the correct rings for

the engine.

piston)

is

usually installed

first. It's

composed

separate components. Slip the spacer/expander into the groove (see illustration). If an anti-rotation tang is used, make sure it's inserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove. Next, install the lower side rail. Don't use a piston ring installation tool on the oil ring side rails, as they may be damaged. of three

Instead, place

one end

of the side

rail

into the

groove between the spacer/expander and the ring land, hold it firmly in place and slide a finger around the piston while pushing the rail into the groove (see illustration). Next, install the upper side rail in the same manner. 10 After the three oil ring components have been installed, check to make sure both the upper and lower side rails can be turned smoothly in the ring groove.

Timing belt (3.4L only) and exhaust manifolds Valve covers

Intake

23

Piston rings

-

installation

Refer to illustrations 23.3, 23.4. 23.5, 23.9a, 23.9b and 23.12 1

ring

Before

installing

end gaps

nnust

the piston ring

the

new

piston rings, the

be checked.

It's

side clearance

assumed

has been

checked and verified correct (see Section 1 9). 2 Lay out the piston/connecting rod assennblies and the new ring sets so the ring will be matched with the same piston and cylinder during the end gap measurement and engine assembly.

sets

3 first

(number one) ring into the cylinder and square it up with the cylinInsert the top

23.9a Installing the spacer/expander the oil control ring groove

in

23.9b

DO NOT

installation tool

use a piston ring

when

installing the oil ring

side rails

2G-28

Chapter 2 Part

G

General engine overhaul procedures

23.12 Installing the compression rings with a ring expander mark (arrow) must face up

The number two (middle) ring is installed It's usually stamped with a mark, which must face up, toward the top of the piston. Note: Always follow the instructions printed on the ring package or box - different manu1 1

next.

facturers

may

require different approaches.

Don't mix up the top and middle rings, as they have different cross sections. 12 Use a piston ring installation tool and

make

sure the identification mark

is

facing

the top of the piston, then slip the ring into the middle groove on the piston (see illustra-

Don't expand the ring any more than necessary to slide it over the piston. 13 Install the number one (top) ring in the same manner. Make sure the mark is facing up. Be careful not to confuse the number one

tion).

and number two rings. 14 Repeat the procedure pistons and rings.

24

illustrations 24. 1 1

and 24. 15

Crankshaft installation is the first step in engine reassembly. It's assumed at this point

and crankshaft have been cleaned, inspected and repaired or

that the engine block

Position the engine with the bottom fac-

ing up.

lift

Remove

groove

Lay the Plastigage strips (arrow) on the main bearing journals, parallel to the crankshaft centeriine

in

it,

make

sure the grooved insert

is

Lay the other bearing from each set in the corresponding main bearing cap. Make sure the tab on the bearinstalled in the block.

ing insert

fits

recess

into the

cap. Caution: The

up with the

oil

holes

in

in

2.5

installed in the

the main beahng cap bolts and

out the caps. Lay them out

in

the proper

number

five

If any of the main bearing caps are difficult to remove, tap them gently from side-to-side with a soft-face hammer to loosen them. 1 Compare the width of the crushed Plas-

liter

four-cylin-

cap and saddle.

engines, the thrust bearing must

be installed in the number three (center) cap and saddle. On the 3800, the thrust bearing must be installed in the number two cap and saddle. On other V6 engines, install the thrust bearing in the number three cap and saddle. 7 Clean the faces of the bearings in the block and the crankshaft main bearing jour-

Check -

dirt

straight through the

new

oil

clearance

Note: Don'f touch the faces of the ing inserts with your fingers. Oil

from your skin can etch the bearings. Clean the back sides of the new main 5

sure

it's

con-ect.

bearings.

10

Before the crankshaft can be perma-

caps and

new bearand acids

make

16 If the clearance is not as specified, the bearing inserts may be the wrong size (which means different ones will be required). Before deciding different inserts are needed, make sure no dirt or oil was between the bearing inserts and the caps or block when the clearance was measured. If the Plastigage was wider at one end than the other, the journal may be tapered (refer to Section 20).

bearings.

(see illustration). 12 Clean the faces of the bearings

place,

clearance (see illustration). Check

Once

Main bearing check

in

oil

you're certain the crankshaft is clean, carefully lay it in position in the main

9

ance must be checked. 11 Cut several pieces of the appropriate size Plastigage (they should be slightly shorter than the width of the main bearings) and place one piece on each crankshaft main bearing journal, parallel with the joumal axis

still

bearing

the Specifications to

oil holes in the here can go only one

remove the original bearing inserts from the block and the main bearing caps. Wipe the bearing surfaces of the block and caps with a clean, lint-free cloth. They must be kept spotlessly clean. they're

the Plastigage envelope to obtain the main

or clean the

crankshaft, as any

nently installed, the main bearing

If

tigage on each journal to the scale printed on

nals with a clean, lint-free cloth.

8

order to ensure correct installation.

4

1 Remove the bolts and carefully lift off the main bearing caps. Keep them in order. Don't

disturb the Plastigage or rotate the crankshaft.

On the 2.2 liter four cylinder engine, the 6 flanged thrust bearing must be installed in the number four cap and saddle (counting from On

time during this operation.

must

oil

the front of the engine).

toward the ends, tighten the main bearing cap bolts, in three steps, to the torque figure listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Don't rotate the crankshaft at any ing out

the block or

the block

holes in the bearing inserts. Do not hammer the bearing into place and don 't nick or gouge the bearing faces. No lubrication should be used at this time. line

way

reconditioned.

3

24.11

bearing inserts and lay one in each main bearing saddle in the block. If one of the bearing inserts from each set has a large

On Quad-4

1

2

the

der engines, the thrust bearing must be remaining

for the

Crankshaft - installation and main bearing oil clearance check

Refer to

-

install

the caps

tions (don't mix

oil

clear-

in

in their original

the

loca-

them up) with the arrows

pointing toward the front of the engine. Don't disturb the Plastigage.

13

Starting with the center

main and work-

24.15 Compare the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale on the envelope to determine the main bearing oil clearance (always take the measurement at the widest point of the Plastigage); be sure to use the correct scale - standard and metric ones are included

Chapter 2 Part

25.1

Be sure

to prelube the bearing journals

camshaft

17

Carefully scrape

gage material

off

all

G

and lobes

25.2

prior to

On

installation

2.5L engines, the camshaft and crankshaft gears positioned so the timing marks (arrows) line up

25

and/or the bearing faces. Use your fingernail or the edge of a credit card - don't nick or scratch the bearing faces.

Camshaft, intermediate shaft (3.4L) and balance shaft (3800)

Camshaft and intermediate

18

shaft (3.4L)

lift

the crankshaft out of the

pump

-

installation

Final crankshaft installation Carefully

Refer to

19 Clean the bearing faces in the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to each of the bearing surfaces. Be sure to coat the thrust faces as well as the journal face of the

Note: This procedure does not apply to the Quad-4 or 3.4 liter V6 engines. For camshaft installation procedures on Quad-4 and 3.4L engines, refer to Chapter 2C or 2E. 1 Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals and cam lobes with moly-base grease or engine assembly lube (see illustration). Slide the camshaft into the engine, 2 using a long bolt (the same thread as the camshaft sprocket bolt) screwed into the front of the camshaft as a "handle." Support the cam near the block and be careful not to scrape or nick the bearings. Install the camshaft retainer plate or intermediate shaft plate (3.4L) and tighten the bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. On 2.5L engines through 1990, align the timing marks on the camshaft gear and the crankshaft gear (see illustration). Install the

20

Make

sure the crankshaft journals are clean, then lay the crankshaft back in place in the block.

Clean the faces of the bearings in the caps, then apply lubricant to them. 22 Install the caps in their original locations with the arrows pointing toward the front of 21

the engine.

23 24

Install

the bolts.

except the thrust bearing cap bolts to the specified torque (work from the center out and approach the final torque in Tighten

all

three steps).

25

Tighten the thrust bearing cap bolts to

10-to-12ft-lbs.

26 Tap the ends of the crankshaft forward and backward with a lead or brass hammer to line up the main bearing and crankshaft

illustrations 25.

thrust plate bolts

torque

3

1

and 25.2

and tighten them

Chapter's Specifications. 2.2L four cylinder and V6 engines

listed in this

On

thrust surfaces.

27 Retighten all main bearing cap bolts to the torque specified in this Chapter, starting with the center main and working out toward the ends.

28 Rotate the crankshaft a number of times by hand to check for any obvious binding. 29 The final step is to check the crankshaft endplay with feeler gauges or a dial indicator as described in Section 15. The endplay should be correct if the crankshaft thrust faces aren't worn or damaged and new bearings have been installed. 30 Refer to Section 26 and install the new rear main oil seal.

to the

25.5 Drive the front

balance shaft bearing in (it's attached to the balance shaft) just until the retainer plate can

be

installed

oil

engine oil and insert it into the block. It should be flush with its mounting boss before inserting the retaining bolt. Note: Position a new 0-ring on the oil pump driveshaft before installation. 4 Refer to Part A, B, D or F (depending on engine type and size) to complete the installadrive

tion of the

engine.

thrust bearing.

must be

(except 3800), dip the gear portion of the

traces of the Plasti-

the main bearing journals

2G-29

General engine overhaul procedures

On 3800

in

lifters,

timing chain and sprockets.

engines, perfonm the following proce-

dure for balance shaft installing the timing

before

installation

chain and sprockets.

Balance shaft (3800 only) Refer to

illustrations 25.5,

25.8 and 25.9

Lubricate the front bearing and rear journal of the balance shaft with engine oil

5

and

insert the

block.

When

the insert

in

balance shaft carefully into the the front bearing approaches

the front of the block, use a

mer and an appropriate-size socket the front bearing into

enough

its insert.

Drive

to allow installation of the

ham-

to drive it

in just

balance

shaft bearing retainer (see illustration). Tighten the balance shaft retainer bolts to the

torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Install the balance shaft driven gear and 6 its bolt.

7 Turn the camshaft so that with the camshaft sprocket temporarily installed, the timing mark is straight down.

2G-30

Chapter 2 Part

ce shaft gear mark (arrow) should point straight down

25.8

8 With the camshaft sprocket and the camshaft gear removed, turn the balance shaft so the timing mark on the gear points

down (see illustration). Install the camshaft gear (that drives the 9 balance shaft) onto the cam, aligning it with the keyway and align the marks on the balance shaft gear and the camshaft gear (see illustration) by turning the balance shaft. 10 After the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and timing chain have been installed (see Chapter 2 part F), tighten the balance shaft driven gear bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. straight

26

Rear main

oil

seal

-

installation

and 2.5 liter four-cylinder and V6 engines

2.2

Refer to

illustration

26.3

in the block/cap and the on the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft journal for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only 1

Clean the bore

seal journal

a new or different crankshaft. Apply a light coat of engine oil or multi2 purpose grease to the outer edge of the new seal. Lubricate the seal lip with moly-base grease or engine assembly lube. altemative

3

is

Press the

special tool, Chapter).

if

The

new

seal into place with the

available (see Part seal

lip

front of the engine.

If

A

G

General engine overhaul procedures

marks (arrows) on both balance shaft gears as shown

the housing and the housing bolted to the block (see Part C of this Chapter). Before installing the crankshaft, check 5 the seal journal very carefully for scratches

the special tool

and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative

is

a

new

or different

crankshaft.

new

installing

inserts and wipe the bearing surfaces of the connecting rod and cap with a clean, lint-free cloth.

They must be kept spotlessly

Connecting rod bearing clearance check

from your skin can etch the bearings. Clean the back side of the new upper bearing insert, then lay it in place in the connecting rod. Make sure the tab on the bearing fits into the recess in the rod. Don't hammer the bearing insert into place and be very 3

careful not to nick or

gouge the bearing

face.

Don't lubricate the bearing at this time.

Clean the back side of the other bearing

4

insert

and

install

it

in

the rod cap. Again,

sure the tab on the bearing in

fits

into the

make

recess

the cap, and don't apply any lubricant.

critically

It's

important that the mating surfaces of

the bearing and connecting rod are perfectly oil free when they're assembled. 5 Position the piston ring gaps at 120degree intervals around the piston (see illus-

clean and

tration).

the housing.

Specifications.

Pistons and connecting rods and rod bearing oil clearance check -

27

FRONT OF ENGINE

TOP OF

/

e careful not to distort the radiator fittings! If the hoses are old or deteriorated, cut them off and install new ones.

7

Disconnect the reservoir hose from the neck (see illustration).

radiator

5.9 Radiator

mounting

bolt

locations (arrows)

models shown, on later models will vary

(early

bolt locations

slightly)

5.4b

.

.

.

and lower

left

comers

of the

radiator (viewed from below)

.

Use a pair of adjustable pliers to squeeze the ends of the hose clamp (arrow) and slide the clamp down the hose

the engine cooling fan assem-

Loosen the hose clamps, then detach 6 the radiator hoses from the fittings (see illus-

.

5.6

same

bly (see Section 4).

lines (arrow) are

the upper

way, not straight on. 5

3-5

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

other side out, clips the

3

5.7 The coolant reservoir hose (arrow) connects to the right side of the radiator

techniques are required. 12 Bugs and dirt can be removed from the radiator with compressed air and a soft bnjsh. Don't bend the cooling fins as this is done. Check the radiator mounts for detehora1 tion and make sure there's nothing in them

when

the radiator

is

installed.

Installation Installation is the reverse of the removal 14 procedure. Install the cooler line retaining clips onto the quick-connect fitting before installing the lines, then snap the cooler lines

3-6

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

6.3 3.4

liter

V6 engine coolant

air

conditioning systems

6.4 Coolant reservoir (typical)

remove

-

the mounting bolts (arrows) and reservoir out

reservoir details

Coolant reservoir

lift

the

7.4 If the pump is leaking through the vent hole, stains will form below the shaft

(arrow)

-

pump removed

for clarity

Front fender upper rail eriy,

on the quick-connect fittings. Be sure to reinstall the plastic collars on the quick-connect fittings, as they lock the into place

retaining clips in place.

15

After installation,

Be sure

the cooling system

to bleed the

system

of air (see

Chapter 1). 16 Start the engine and check for leaks. Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature, indicated by the upper radiator hose becoming hot. Recheck the coolant level and add more if required. 17 If you're working on an automatic transaxle equipped vehicle, check and add fluid

6

as needed.

removal and

-

illustrations 6.3

and 6.4

Detach the hose from the windshield washer fluid reservoir cap. Disconnect the radiator overflow hose 2 from the top of the radiator. 3 Remove the front fender upper rail, if necessary (see illustration). 4 Remove the mounting bolts and lift the coolant reservoir from the vehicle (see illustration).

5

Installation is the reverse of removal.

7

Water pump

A

-

check

illustrations 7.4

failure in the

serious engine

as the

occurs in the pump will leak from the hole (see In most cases you'll need a mirror to find the hole on the the water pump to check for

or vent holes.

If

illustration). flashlight

and

water

damage due

7.5

and

under side of

a

failure

air

conditioner compressor, as nec-

essary.

Quad-4 equipped models only Remove

7

the

exhaust manifold heat and the exhaust

shields (see Chapter 2C) manifold.

8 ator

Remove the radiator outlet pipe-to-radipump cover bolts, leaving the lower radi-

hose attached. Pull down on the radiator disengage it from the water pump and detach the pipe from the oil pan and transaxle.

leaks.

ator

the water pump shaft bearings fail there may be a howling sound coming from the drivebelt area while the engine is running.

outlet pipe to

felt if the water pump pulrocked up-and-down (see illustration). Don't mistake drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing sound, for water pump

Remove the water 9 der block bolts.

5

If

Shaft wear can be ley

is

8

failure.

Water pump

-

removal and

All

pump

cover-to-cylin-

models

10 On 3.1 L engines, remove the small tjelt guard just above the water pump. Remove the bolts/nuts and detach the water pump from the engine (see illustrations). 11 Clean the fastener threads and any threaded holes in the engine to remove corrosion and sealant.

Refer to

illustrations 8. 10a, 8. 10b. 8.

10c

and 8.15

Waming:

12 to

Wait

until

the engine

cool before beginning

this

is

completely

procedure.

1

Compare the new pump to the make sure they're identical. Remove all traces of old gasket

old

one

material

from the engine with a gasket scraper.

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be

sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Drain the cooling system (see Chap2 ter 1). If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it. Note: On Quad-4 models, disconnect the heater hose

pump can cause

from the thermostat housing for more com-

to overheating.

plete coolant drain.

There are three ways to check the operpump while it's installed on the engine. If the pump is defective, it should be replaced with a new or rebuilt unit. 3 With the engine running at normal operating temperature, squeeze the upper radiator hose. If the water pump is working prop-

and the

the fan blades!

installation

1

1

felt

Waming: Keep your hands

Water pumps are equipped with weep

4

installation

Refer to

released.

away from

bearing

Coolant reservoir

Refer to

is

seal, coolant fill

with the proper mixture of antifreeze and water.

a pressure surge should be

hose

2

3

ation of the water

4

Remove Remove

the

air

cleaner

if

necessary.

the windshield washer reservoir

and the coolant recovery

reservoir (see Sec-

as necessary. Remove the serpentine belt and ten5 sioner (see Chapter 1). 6 Remove the alternator and its brackets

tion 6),

7.5

Rock the check

pulley

back and

for bearing play

forth to

5

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

8.10a Typical V6 water pump mounting - the mounting bolts are located around the perimeter of the pump

details (except 3800)

8.10b Pull the pump off it with a soft-face

air

if

rt's

stuck, tap

lubricate the

^^

Clean the engine and water

14

pump

mat-

9

Coolant temperature sending unit or Low Coolant sensor check and replacement

Installation 1 Carefully attach the pump and gasket to the engine and start the bolts/nuts finger

Note:

tight.

On Quad-4 models,

splines of the water

pump

lubricate the

drive (see illustra-

grease prior to installation. Lubricate the 0-ring on the radiator outlet pipe with antifreeze solution before installing. 16 Tighten the fasteners in 1/4-turn incretion) with chassis

ments

to the torque figure listed

ter's Specifications.

or the

b) c)

d)

17

all

distorted. Note:

18

parts

removed

for

9.1c Location of the sending unit (arrow) on the 3800 engine

pump

access to

the cooling system (see ChapRun the engine and check for leaks.

Refill 1).

until the

On

the pump. ter

lb and

9.

1c

engine is completely cool before beginning this procedure. 1 The coolant temperature indicator system is composed of a light or temperature Wait

tighten the fasteners in this

Pump-to-chain housing Pump cover-to-pump assembly Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first Radiator outlet pipe-to-water cover Reinstall

illustrations 9. la, 9.

Waming:

Chap-

order. a)

Pefer to

Don't overtighten them

pump may be

Quad-4 models,

in this

details

\

engine - the sending unit on the 2.2 liter engine is located on the engine's coolant outlet

splines (arrow) with grease

ing surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone.

pump mounting 3800 V6

9.1a Coolant temperature sending unit location (arrow) - 2.5 liter four cylinder

On Quad-4 models,

8.10c Water

hammer

'^^ 1

8.15

3-7

conditioning systems

9.1b On 2.8, 3.1 and 3.4 liter V6 engines, the coolant temperature sensor (arrow) is adjacent to the EGR pipe (On the 3100 V6, the coolant temperature sensor is located next to the ignition control module) in the instrument panel and a coolant temperature sending unit mounted on the engine (see illustrations). (Some vehicles have more than one sending unit, but the one used for the indicator system has only one wire). Note: Refer to illustration 3.13a for the location of the coolant temperature

gauge mounted

sending unit on the Quad-4 engine. On some models a low coolant waming system is also used. This system is composed of a waming

3-8

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and

and remove the mounting screws from the blower assembly

10.3 Detach the electrical connector

Electrical

1

2

connector

air

10.4

conditioning systems

The convenience center is located at the passenger side knee bolster (1 996 and earlier models only)

Blower mounting screw

light in the instrument panel and a low coolant sensor mounted on the side of the

10

Heater and air conditioner blower - removal and installation

11

motor

radiator. If the light or gauge indicates the engine overheating or that the coolant is low, check the coolant level in the system and then make sure the wiring between the light or gauge and the sending unit is secure and all fuses are intact. 3 When the ignition switch is turned on and the starter motor is turning, the indicator lights (if equipped) should be on (overheated engine or low coolant indication). If either of the lights isn't on, the bulb 4 may be burned out, the ignition switch may be faulty or the circuit may be open. Test the circuit by grounding the wire to the sending unit

Heater core

removal and

installation

2

is

while the ignition

light

is

on (engine not running

for

the gauge deflects full scale or the comes on, replace the sending unit.

safety).

If

5 As soon as the engine starts, the light should go out and remain out unless the engine overheats or, in the case of the low coolant sensor, the coolant level becomes

go out may be due grounded wire between the light and the sending unit, a defective sending unit or a faulty ignition switch. If the problem is with the temperature sender, check the coolant to make sure it's the proper type. Plain water may have too low a boiling point to activate low. Failure of the light to

to a

the sending

6

If

unit.

from the engine Use a light coat of sealant on the threads. Make sure the engine is cool before removing the defective sending unit. If the low coolant sensor must be replaced, drain some coolant from the radiator (see Chapter 1), disconnect the connector then unsnap the sensor from it's install

it

the replacement.

mount on the radiator. Check the coolant level after the 7 replacement has been installed and refill as necessary.

illustrations 10.3, 10.4

and

10.6

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the tiattery. Waming: Most models covered by this manual are equipped with airbags. Always disable the airbag system t>efore working in the vicinity of the impact sensors, steering column or instrument panel to avoid the possibility of accidental deployment of the airbag(s), which could cause personal injury (see Chapter 1 2). The yellow wires and connectors routed through the instrument panel are for this system. Do not use electrical test equipment on these yellow wires or tamper with them in any way while working under the instrument 1

panel.

Working in the passenger compartment, r.ompartremove the panel p^'Dw the gl



_z:^trrd' BRAKE SWITCH

N/BU TCC SOL L J ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE (ECM)

2.3L engine control system

(1

of 2)

.

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

12-23

system

HOT

IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

-I

ilNJ

OXYCEN SENSOR OXYGEN SENSOR

IN IN

il! F

?

? FUSE

LO

^ |H|l-f

HI

'

I

FUSE

,

[? OA

Vl

7.5A

RS ELECTRICAL CENTER

OXYGEN SENSOR

OnONATION SENSOR

-4(^i^-

IN

DETONATION SENSOR

VAPOR CANISTER SOL CTRL

DK

^

CRNAEL

^r^=l

^

PNK/BLK

^^^j ^PNK/8L


It

TCC

Fua

®

PWM sot

TANK UNIT

NCA TAN/BLK

-ii AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE

HOT

n I

RUN

IN

;;:^

y^^l

T

Jl^

ppl/wht red/blk M/BLK

T underhood (ELECTRICAL

BRN

^)-^^

yv^.

J

I

TCC/BRAKE SWITCH

BLK/WHT

ncaI

mi.

X

_S£Y

_^

:k 1994 and 1995 3100 engine control system

(2 of 2)

ASSEMBLY

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

12-33

system

HOT HOT IN RUN, BULB TEST OR START FUSE BLOCK i FUSE 39

ri

SERVICE ENGINE SOON INDICATOR

1

I

I

10A ;

i_

i

J

IN

RUN

OIL

5

r^

I

I

LOW

LEVEL INDICATOR

*.

;

I

UNOERHOOO

I

ELECTRICAL

ENG EMIS

J

X

ICC/BRAKE

I

SWITCH

I

POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE

•

\

pplT

T

r

BRAKE SWITCH INPUT

BRN/WHT MALFUNCTION INO CTRL

LOW

OIL INDICATOR

CANISTER PURGE SOL CTRL

POWER STEERING SENSOR

OEGR SOLENOID A CTRL OEGR SOLENOID C CTRL OEGR SOLENOID B CTRL I

ENC COOL FAN #1 CTRL RLY IDLE AIR CTRL

MOTOR

CONTROL MOTOR

IDLE AIR

IDLE AIR CTRL

MOTOR

IDLE AIR CTRL

MOTOR

A/C COMPRESSOR RLY CTRL I

OK GRN/WHT

-> A/C COMPRESSOR

-^ - THEn

ENG COOL FAN #2 CTRL RLT

RELAY

FAN CTRL #2 RELAY CRUISE CONTROL MODULE

CRUISE CTRL "INHIBIT" SIG

THEFT DETERRENT

-^

CRUISE CTRL "ENGAGED" SIG

DETERRENT MODULE

CRUISE CONTROL MODULE

TAN/8LK

HOT

TCC CTRL

IN

RUN

UNDERHOOO

TRANSAXLE SHIFT SOL "8"

^^"^

USE T;:ISA

TRANSAXLE SHIFT SOL "A"

I

ELECTRICAL

I

CENTER #1

TCC OUTPUT

PCM GROUND

9LK/WHT CHIME MODULE. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, HEADS UP DISPLAY UNIT, TRIP COMPUTER, » CRUISE CONTROL MODULE

VSS RETURN

-(^^^)-

AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE

liCHfCI Y

I

V

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR

CRANKSHAn

LT

BLU/BLX

LT

BLU/BLK

POSITION SENS S VOLT REF

HOT IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

n 1994 and 1995 3.4L engine control system

(1

of 3)

HOT AT ALL TIMES ~l

ECM ICN FUSE ISA

ECM BAT

[ FUSE 20A

UNOERHOOO

I

ELECTRICAL

I

CENTER #1

12-34

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

system HOT

IN N

RUN. BULS TEST OR START S^ 1

I

;

1I

UNDERHOOO

II

ELECTRICAL CENTER #1

F/iNjN

I

I

I

1

PNK

POWCRTRAIN CONTROL MOOJLC

lAT

/L

SENSOR INPUT

TAN/WHT

PCM GROUND SERIAL DATA UART

OK BLU/WNT

i

SERIAL DATA UART

A/C RtOEST ON IN PCM GROUND

TAN/WHT

PCM GROUND A/C PRESSURE SENSOR

REP/BLK

~\

RED/BLX

>

SERIAL DATA UART

A/C PRES SENSOR

DATA UNK CONNECTOR

TRANSMISSION TEMP SENSOR

KNOCK SENSOR

IN

iT

ENGINE

THROnLE POSITION SEN IN CAM SHAFT POS SENSOR H02S IN-HI TRANSAXLE RANGE SW IN H02S IN-LO

.SSL. TAN/BLK RED/BLK PPL/WHT

IGN CTRL BYPASS CTRL

REF PULSE IN-LO

REF PULSE IN-HI

fl

fS CTRL #2 CTRL

INJ

POSITION

SENSOR

_T£L.

IN

INJ

FUEL

THROTTLE

IN

IN

INJ

FUEL

INJ

Bm

BLK/WHT

INJ

INJ

BtiU

if,

IN

#5 CTRL #« CTRL #3 CTRL

FUEL FUEL FUEL FUEL

i 3

DK GRN/WHT

FUEL PUMP REUY CTRL SPARK CONTROL OUT

TRANSAXLE RANGE SW TRANSAXLE RANGE SW HAF SENSOR TRANSMISSION RANGE SW

i

COOLANT TEMP SENSOR

n

BLK/WHT BLU/BLK PNK/BIK LT

CTRL

YEL/BLK LT

CRN/BLK

OIL LEVEL INPUT

HALL EFFECT

\

SENSOR

»

aLK/WHT^

CRANKSHAFT POSITION

PCM GROUND

I)

SENSOR

TI

?LK/WHT

J

LT

71

BLU/BLK

HALL EFFECT

SENSOR

CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

'NK^r"~~~T[ .

LT

GRN/BU

^^g>l£LZ2^ OK GRN/WHT

7?^> ^ Fa H^

TAN/BLK RED/BLK PPL/WHT

PNK/BLK >

BLU/BlK

BLK/WH

FUEL INJECTORS

1994 and 1995 3.4L engine control system

(2 of 3)

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

"t NCA

•

f

•—

4

'

—

I—••

f

•

>

f

12-35

system

BLK/WHT

•

I

IGNITION COIL

1

994 and

1

995 3.4L engine control system

(3 of 3)

ASSfUBLT

I

12-36

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

IDLE AIR

CONTROL yQTOR

Ml

HOT ELECTRICAl. LAL CENTER «1

'

POYVCRTRAIN CONTROL

UODUU

1

I

I

* TCC C ^^^^ » ISA

1 F/INJN

RUN

ENG EMIS i FUSE ? ISA V

C """SE V 'SA

I

'

(PCM)

lAC B HI

I

l*C e LO

I

A LO

lAC

IN

UNDCRHOOO

)-

)-

>

I

>-

FUSED ION FEED

I

LT

CRN/WHT CRN/BLK

LT

BLU/8LK

LT

I

LINEAR EGR CTRL

'

>-

EGR 5 VOLT REF

'

)-

WN _iSJL_(e k c

SS2-(f.— A/C COUP RLY CTRL ')-

COOUNG FAN

>

RLT

1

COOLING FAK 2 RLY COOLING FAN REQUES''

)

i

)

_aus_(^

"^ ""'^^''^^ > A/C COUP RLY DK CRN _^ ^^^ g^^i^ ^, ^j.^^ ^^ ^""^ FAN CTRL #2 RELAY

^

^^^

^^j.

UNEAR EX-mUST CAS REORCULATlON (EGR) VALVE

-

"^O/aiK.

i

CRUISE CONTWL UOOULE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PASSIVE RESTRAINT CONTROL UOOULE

COMPONENT CENTER

PRESSURE

SWITCH CRUISE DISABl£

*K/UI SPEED iCNmoN ic OUTPUT ICN MODULE BYPASS CTRL CAMSHATT REF INPUT FUEL CTRL REF IN

GROUND

I

)

^

21.252

I)\yI)-

CRUISE CONTROL

MODULE

H/BLK

l> I

)

PPL/Yi

l>__«2Z2i2

SPARK REF in')

^'-"/^^'^

'-^

AUTOMATIC TRANSUISSON SERIAL DATA

UNE

^*'*

-( DATA LINK

|)

CONNECTOR

TCC PWU SOL

I.

TCC/PWM SOLENOIO CTRL |> I

,„...„ VI GROUND GROUND |> GROUND I) GROUND I)-

^f TAS/WMT ' TAN/m

1^^;=;^^^ SHIFT A SOL

21^4^:11.

I

VEHICLE SPEED

I

YEL/BLK

SENSOR

I

VSS INPUT

A/C REQUEST INPUT

| MALFUNCTION IND CTRL ) MAF SENSOR IN I)-

DK GRN/¥fHT

DK CRN/WV-T

8RN/WHT

I

BlK/\¥HT

I

I

r

I

I I

I

C

1

ECM/ING fUSE

I

I

UNOERHOOO ELECTRICAL

CENTER #1

ISA

PNK/BLK FVSED GN FEED

''"VBLK |)

J

1994 and 1995 3.8L engine control system

(1

of 3)

9

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

12-37

system

BLK/WHT

HOT

r

POVKR TRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) r

1

TRANS RANGE INPUT A |> TRANS RANGE INPUT B TRANS RANGE PARITY INPUT TRANS RANGE INPUT C

IN

RUN 1

UNOERHOOD

I

i ENC EMIS

I

I

I

I

ELECTRICAL

EVAP CANISTER PURGE SOL

KNOCK SENSOR INPU 5 VOLT REr

ENGINE DATA SENS GROUND

TRANS TEMP INPUT

ENQNE COOLANT TEMP INPUT THROTTLE POSITION INPUT

HOZS 1 H02S H02S 2 H02S 2

1

INPUT-LO INPUT

HI

INPUT-LO INPUT-HI

INTAKE AIR TEMP INPUT

TRANSAXLE sol B CTRL TSANSAXLE sol a CTRL TCC SOL CTRL TCC BRAKE SWTCH INPUT EGR POSITION INPUT

1

,

i

)-

3LK

BRN TAN/BLK

X/BLK

/VWT LT

PPL/W REO/BLK LT BLU/BLK

BLU/BLK

HOT A- All TIMES (I I

]

n

i ECM BAT C fUSE

UN0ERHO09 ELECTRICAL

I

I

CENTER

#1

7 FUEL PUMP/ OIL PRESSURE SENSOR SWTCH

ruEL TANK UNIT

TAN/BLK TTL/BLK

DK CRN/WIT

rI

-»

1

/

I

/

I

I

I

i_l

->OSlT)OM

REoac-

SEKSoe

ULATIOM

CM la

VALVE

'

,

cooujr !•"; I

TEl* SEM50B

i«AinjNCTio« >iJy >«AinjNCTI

FUEL TiN» =S£SSURE

f

1

~i

SE-SStXl

I

NSTP-JMEhT

D.USTEO

CAMSHAFT POSITION

SEWSOB

9BM/WVWHT/BL'^

9"-^)

g PK

Mn /•*>•" CRANKSmaTT "osmoti SEKSOB

OCL IriFU ^fVlL

KSO«' ^

«rHT/Cr' I

I

I

L*

\

IS*

id

"PL

,« 3K

9LU/WHT

j^ LT B;.u/8m

S^eASS CTRt G CTRL 'ACH OUTPUT •S* RET SIGN JX RET H 3X REF LD

< 5 z z X a vi

COwTROt MOOULE

tt

7 V Z z

His: X " S ° U 2

z IT

CUP SENSOR SKHAL CM "OS VOtT

1

J-.C 1

rHEATXO OXYGEN SENSOR

Typical 1996 and later 3800 engine control system (part 2 of 3}

HEATED oxtcem

tfll

S£*

* >

HIGH

UOUNTEO STOPUGHT

"-

i **T

'_^if2.'.

'i*

LIGHT

Y BLK

I

CENTER 1

LEFT

UP Q) BACKr"

(i)(D(i)

'

Llll

T

T

T

1

NCA HOT AT ALL TIUES

^

BLK

rT pis TpT "1 * PARK LPS P ruSE

I

UNDERHOOO ^^•^.TR,CAL

CENTER 12

I

25A

.

Lii^*___J org]

"1

HEADUGHT SWITCH

I

I

-»IV

LT BLU

LT

orr

f

_

Bm I

I

I

LEFT^». TURrf

^

I

)

I

INOV*/ -(I

I

-2t2-*

RFA LINK I)-

BODr CONTROL UOOULC

e—((m>J RFA UNK

GROUND

BaHERY

-

BLK

:t|

DIM DISPLAY

,_blk|

1988 through 1993 (Buick Regal)

JL

VF DIMMING SIGNAL IN

Y TAN/ BLK

X DIM DISPLAY

SIGNAL

IN

n I

CASSETTE

PUTER

I

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

12-63

system

HOT AT ALL TIWCS

I

—

r-

"

I

*>^^l*-0^

I

KIHU'

~ I

CANCEL CAM ASSEMBLY

rjn

~1 FUSE BLOCK

~\ I

I

I

TURN

I

SIGNAL SWITCH

a^!:j

roc LAMP/

\rF\\ AUDIO SWITCH lUr^l ASSEMBLY

LiJ

Interior lights circuit

-

1988 through 1993 (Cutlass Supreme)

HEADLIGHT SWITCH

12-64

Chapter 12

Chassis electrical system

HOT AT

/'

I

r J~l

STEERING

l(H|

COKTROLS

!

i_ ORG

U±

HOT AT ALL TIMES

TIUCS

UNOtRHOOO THORlT ~l CUCTRICAL

PARK U>S fUS£ 2SA

ruSE ISA

I

I

CENTtR 02

._i

ORC

LiJ T

BLX

T HCAOUCMT

y'

SWITCH

CRY

r 5 "1

/.

I/P

DlUUCR SWITCH

STEERING

CONTROLS

Li J

I

A

-r@>

.«

BLX

J BLK

CRY

r

I 3F "I

HEATER

J BLK

l/TM |{ r Ui J ).

T

PASSENGERS HEATER AND A/C SELECTOR SWITCH

BLK

BRN/V»HT

'

CRY/BLK PPl/WKT

'

'

_8LJ(^22i(i I

I

I

RADIO

I

I

HCATCR ANO A/C COMTROL

^^

®i

(I

I

I

I

CHIME MODULE

CRT/BLK

'

I

BLK

r5

~1

LETT

|/^|fRONT i(5)|?o°c°k"

l*j

T

switch

BLK

r51

LEf T

Li J I

BLK

r 5 "I RIGHT

M

|y*S|rRONT .f

DOOR

'^•K' LOCK

L*J

T

I

HEAO-UP DISPLAY (OLOSMOeiLE ONLY)

|/1*\| HUD DIMMER ,(M, SWITCH (OLOSMOSILE ONLY)

SWITCH

BLK

CRY

Interior lights circuit

-

1994 and 1995

Chapter 12 Chassis

electrical

HOT

HOT AT *. I

I

J

IN RUN. BULB TEST OR START

_ALl^ TI_MES

HO LPS MAXI CIRCUIT BRCAKER

UNDERHOOO j

system

HOT AT AL\^

VUZ%

I

ITmia'n

Courtesy

lights circuit

-

1994 through 1997

12-65

12-66

Chapter 12 Chassis HOT

W/ PARKLAMPS ON

electrical

system

MOT AT ALL Hues

["paKeI" JOtMHINC

BOOT CONTROL UODULC (BCU) »

/— / fe f

»-^ *

ifRONT

i_j 6U T

Typical courtesy light system

-

1998 and

1

-

k-~ *

/

iTRONT

i

^l^l

'

*—

T I

.

/

i

R£AR

'?o^^

i

*—

T BlK

1

»

/

'

RIGHT

iRCAR i

DOOR 1

T BLK

•

later

models

^^

Chapter 12 Chassis HOT

IN

TEST

electrical

12-67

system

RUN. BULB START HOT AT AU. TIMES

Of)

9 FUSE 10 t 'S*

FUSE 39 10A

"IrtSE SLOCK '

i^

OIL PRESSIIRE

swrrcH sender

SPEEDOMETER

~l

LOW

r"'*''"'*"

MODULE

OIL

STEPPER

MOTOR DRIVE

-t-tvy^-M)FUEL LEVEL

SENDER COOLANT -EMPERATURE GAGE SENSOR

J iMpK^jo^ CONTROL

aRN/^>mT

TEL/BLK SERVICE ENGINE

"" OK

1® Y

INDICATOR CONTROL

'""*

COOLANT TEMPERATURE INO ^jjQ^j PULSES PER MILE BRN/WHT "^-(l INDICATOR CONTROL N/BLX --

(D

^1

Q.

Irt


-

,HTR

^. OFF MAX OEF „, r„

i-

Y

,

JOL LT BLU

,

,

-»>-

'B-LV

off/ , TioRu

fl PI>L/WHT

-(@>-

SYSTEM

VACUUM/ELECTRIC SOLENOID BOX

HCATCR AND A/C CONTROL

Air conditioning circuit

-

1995 models with manual temperature control and 3.8L engines

(1

of 2)

t

12-74

Chapter 1 2 Chassis

electrical

Aa

HOT AT TIMES

1

ecu BAT IrusE i 60A

FUSE il20A

I

LT

EXCEPT RECAL V6/3.8L

I '

CRN OR

ENG EUlS FUSE

* r** ?fU«

15A

'boa

system

I

UNOCRMOOO ELECTRICAL

CENTER

'

1

I

LT BLU

REGAL V6/3.8L

ONLY

A/C COMPRESSOR PRESSURE

7C COMPRESSOR

CYCUNC SWITCH

CLUTCH

3

COIL

Q

^

*/c COMPRESSOR HIGH PRESSURE CUT OFF SWITCH

OK CBM/WMT

EXCEPT RECAL V6/J.8L

s

RECAL V6/3.BL ONLY

^

s 2£_BUL .£££

LiAW-"

-< RELAY CONTROL

0< CRN/WHT

^' ^1 RtUT CONTROL CONTROL PRESSURE SW INPUT

-(I REI-*^ -(I ?I-T

CRN

I

-(|*/C RCQCIEST RED/BJ