Haynes Ford Mondeo Diesel Service and Repair Manual 185960465X, 9781859604656

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Haynes Service and Repair Manual

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For the car driver... ‘Excellent value for money, beginners and experts should find it equally

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renewal eS ~ Warning: Before disconnecting any instrument panel components, Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead.

1 To facilitate removal of the instrument panel surround, remove the following components: a) The clock, where fitted. b) The trip computer module, where fitted. c) The heated rear window switch. d) The heated windscreen switch, where fitted.

e) The display assembly warning indicator for the foglights, where fitted.

5.9 Glow plug relay location and securing screw (arrowed)

f) Any blanking covers from the unused switch positions. 2 Remove the instrument panel surround by prising out the blanking covers, then unscrewing its retaining screws (see illustrations). 3 Unscrew the mounting screws, and withdraw the instrument panel a little way from the facia (see illustration). 4 Disconnect the two multi-plugs from the rear of the instrument panel (see illustration). 5 Withdraw the instrument’ panel from the facia, at the same time releasing the speedometer intermediate cable. 6 Remove the warning light by twisting it anticlockwise (see illustration).

5.10 Unplugging electrical connector from the glow plug relay

7

Cold start element - renewal

HU)? 1 The electrically-operated cold start element is screwed into the advance device (see illustration). No test data are available, but if the element is suspect it can be renewed as follows. 2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 3 Disconnect the electrical lead from the cold start element. 4 Wipe clean around the element, then unscrew and remove it. Caution: if it has just been energised, the

element may be hot.

a

6.2a With the blanking covers removed, unscrew the concealed screws...

6.3 Three of the instrument panel mounting screws (arrowed)

6.2c ... and lift out the instrument panel surround

6.4 Disconnecting the multi-plugs from the rear of the instrument panel

6.6 Removing a bulb from the rear of the instrument panel

Engine electrical

7.1 Cold start element (arrowed) on side of injector pump

5 Fit the new element, using a new sealing washer, and tighten it moderately. 6 Reconnect the electrical lead and the battery earth lead. 7 Run the engine to check for correct operation.

the wires from the alternator and the battery terminals. (c) Never start the engine with a battery charger connected. (d) Always disconnect both battery leads before using a battery charger. (e) The alternator is driven by an engine drivebelt which could cause sérious injury if your hand, hair or clothes become entangled in it with the engine running. () Because the alternator is connected directly to the battery, it could arc or cause a fire if overloaded or shorted-out. (9) Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator, and secure it with rubber bands, before steam-cleaning or pressure-washing the engine.

(h) Never disconnect the alternator terminals while the engine is running.

9 Charging system - testing

“8 Charging system - general

information and precautions

General information The charging system includes’ the alternator, an internal voltage regulator, a nocharge (or “ignition”) warning light, the

battery, and the wiring between all the components. The charging system supplies electrical power for the ignition system, the lights, the radio, etc. The alternator is driven by the auxiliary drivebelt at the front (righthand end) of the engine. The purpose of the voltage regulator is to limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value. This prevents power surges, circuit overloads, etc., during peak voltage output. The charging system doesn’t ordinarily require periodic maintenance. However, the drivebelt, battery and wires and connections should be inspected at the intervals outlined in Chapter 1. The dashboard warning light should come on when the ignition key is turned to positions

“I” or “III”, then should go off immediately the engine starts. If it remains on, or if it comes on while the engine is running, there is a malfunction in the charging system (see Section 9). If the light does not come on when the ignition key is turned, and the bulb is sound (see Chapter 12), there is a fault in the alternator.

Precautions Be very careful when making electrical circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with an alternator, and note the following:

(a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator from the battery, be sure to note the polarity. : (o) Before using arc-welding equipment to repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect

Xx x eS

‘1 lf a malfunction occurs in the charging circuit, don’t automatically assume that the alternator is causing the problem. First check the following items: (a) Check the tension and condition of the auxiliary drivebelt - renew it if it is worn or deteriorated (see Chapter 1). (b) Ensure the alternator mounting bolts and nuts are tight. (c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the electrical connections at the alternator; they must be in good condition, and tight. (d) Check the large main fuses in the engine compartment (see Chapter 12). If any is

systems 5°5

(3) To find the short, disconnect the alternator wiring harness: (a) _ If the light goes out, the alternator is at fault. (b) If the light stays on, remove each fuse until it goes out - this will tell you which component is short-circuited. 2 Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be approximately 12 volts. 3 Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. Increase engine speed until the voltmeter reading remains steady; it should

now be approximately 13.5 to 14.6 volts. 4 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg the headlights, heated rear window and heater blower) as possible, and check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14 volts. The voltage may drop and then come back up; it may also be necessary to increase engine speed slightly,

even

if the

charging

system

is working

properly. 5 If the voltage reading is greater than the specified charging voltage, renew the voltage regulator (See Section 11). 6 If the voltmeter reading is less than that specified, the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase winding, or worn or damaged slip rings. The brushes and slip rings may be checked (see

Section

11), but if the fault persists,

the

alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair.

10 Alternator-

.

removal and refitting

blown, determine the cause, repair the

circuit and renew the fuse (the vehicle won't start and/or the accessories won’t work if the fuse is blown). (e) Start the engine and check the alternator for abnormal noises - for example, a

shrieking or squealing sound may indicate a badly-worn bearing or brush. () Make sure that the battery is fully-charged - one bad cell in a battery can cause overcharging by the alternator. (g) Disconnect the battery leads (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the lead clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see Section 3 and Chapter 1). Reconnect the lead to the negative terminal. (h) With the ignition and all accessories switched off, insert a test light between the battery negative post and the disconnected negative lead clamp: (1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step. (2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.

Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (Section 2). 2 Remove the charge air cooler (Chapter 4). Disconnect all wiring to the alternator (see illustration). 3 Raise the vehicle front right-hand side and support on axle stands. Remove the roadwheel.

5°6 Engine electrical systems

10.4 Removing protective shield from wheelarch

10.5 Disconnecting anti-roll bar link rod top securing bolt (arrowed)

10.8a Removing alternator mounting bolts

4 Unbolt and remove the protective shield within the wheelarch (see illustration). 5 Disconnect the top of the anti-roll bar link rod (see illustration). 6 Slacken and remove the alternator drivebelt (Chapter 2) 7 Remove the engine oil filter (Chapter 1). Rather than refit a used filter, you are advised to drain the engine oil, and then to fit a new filter and refill the engine with clean oil on reassembly. 8 Undo and remove the three alternator

installation of pulleys - some auto-electrical specialists will perform this service free of charge.

2 Remove the three screws, and withdraw the plastic end cover (see illustration).

mounting

bolts

(see

illustration)

and

withdraw the alternator from the engine, manoeuvring it out through the wheel arch (see illustration). Do not drop it, it is fragile. 9 If you are renewing the alternator, take the old one with you when purchasing a replacement unit. Make sure that the new or rebuilt unit is identical to the old alternator. Look at the terminals - they should be the same in number, size and location as the terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at

the identification markings - they will be stamped in the housing, or printed on a tag or plaque affixed to the housing. Make sure that these numbers are the same on both alternators. 10 Many new/rebuilt alternators do not have a pulley installed, so you may have to switch

the pulley from the old unit to the new/rebuilt one. When buying an alternator, ask about the

Refitting 11 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, referring where necessary to the relevant Chapters of this manual. Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque wrench settings. 12 Check the charging voltage to verify proper operation of the alternator (see Chapter 11).

11 Alternator brushes and

_ voltage regulator - renewal

SS

AW

Note: This procedure assumes _ that replacement parts of the correct type have been obtained. At the time of writing, no individual alternator components’ were available as separate replacement Ford parts. An auto electrical specialist should be able to supply parts such as brushes. The following procedure is for the Bosch unit fitted to the project vehicle - details may vary for other alternator types. 1 Remove the alternator from the vehicle (see Section 10) and place it on a clean workbench.

3 Remove the two voltage regulator/brush holder mounting screws. 4 Remove the regulator/brush holder from the end frame (see illustration). If you are renewing the assembly, proceed to paragraph 8, install the new unit, reassemble the alternator, and refit it to the engine (see Section 10). If you are going to check the brushes, proceed to the next paragraph. 5 Measure the exposed length of each brush, and compare it to the minimum length listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. If the length of either brush is less than the specified minimum, renew the assembly. 6 Make sure that each brush moves smoothly in the brush holder. 7 Check that the slip rings - the ring of copper on which each brush bears - are clean. Wipe them with a solvent-moistened cloth; if either appears scored or blackened, take the alternator to a repair specialist for advice. 8 Refit the voltage regulator/brush holder, ensuring that the brushes bear correctly on the slip rings, and that they compress into their holders. Tighten the screws securely. 9 Install the rear cover, and tighten the screws securely. 10 Refit the alternator (see Section 10).

Gan 10.8b Withdrawing alternator through right-hand front wheel arch

11.2 Renew voltage regulator/brush holder - Bosch alternator. Remove three screws and withdraw end cover...

11.4 ... then remove regulator/brush holder assembly (secured by two screws)

Engine electrical systems

: 3 Starting system - testing

SS bs

General information The sole function of the starting system is to turn over the engine quickly enough to allow it to start. ; The starting system consists of the battery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and the wires connecting them. The solenoid is mounted directly on the starter motor. The solenoid/starter motor assembly is installed on the engine, next to the transmission bellhousing. When the ignition key is turned to position “II, the starter solenoid is actuated through the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid then connects the battery to the starter. The battery supplies the electrical energy to the starter motor, which does the actual work of cranking the engine. lf the alarm system is armed or activated, the starter motor cannot be operated. The same applies with the engine immobiliser system (where fitted).

Precautions Always observe the following precautions when working on the starting system: (a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor can overheat it, and cause serious damage. Never operate the starter motor for more than 15 seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two minutes. Excessive starter operation will also risk unburned fuel collecting in the catalytic converter’s element, causing it to overheat when the

engine does start (see Chapter 6). (b) The starter is connected directly to the battery, and could arc or cause a fire if mishandled, overloaded or shorted-out. (c) Always detach the lead from the negative terminal of the battery before working on the starting system (see Section 1).

14.3a

Starter motor command

(arrowed)

lead

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, make sure that the battery is fully-charged, and ensure that the alarm/engine immobiliser system is not activated. 1 If the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is operated, make sure that the battery is fully-charged .

2 Make sure that all leads, both at the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are clean and secure. 3 If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch or (when applicable) the reduction gears in the starter motor may be slipping, in which case the starter motor must be overhauled or renewed. (Other possibilities are that the starter motor mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth are missing from the flywheel/driveplate ring gear.) 4 If, when the switch is actuated, the starter ‘motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, then the problem lies with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the starter motor itself (or the engine is

seized). 5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to click when the switch is actuated, the battery is faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or the solenoid itself is defective. 6 To check the solenoid, connect a fused jumper lead between the battery (+) and the ignition switch terminal (the small terminal) on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is OK, and the problem is in the ignition switch, selector lever position sensor (automatic transmission) or in the wiring. 7 If the starter motor still does not operate, remove it (See Section 14). The brushes and commutator may be _ checked _ (see Section 15), but if the fault persists, the motor should be renewed, or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair. 8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an

14.3b Starter motor main lead (arrowed)

5¢7

abnormally-slow speed, first make sure that the battery is charged, and that all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it will crank slowly. 9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached, then switch off and disconnect the fuel pump _ stop

solenoid. 10 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the battery positive terminal, and connect the negative lead to the negative ‘terminal. 11 Crank the engine, and take the voltmeter

readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading of 10.5 volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 10.5 volts or more but the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are burned, the motor is faulty, or there is a bad connection. If the reading is less than 10.5 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the starter motor is faulty or there is a problem with the battery.

14 Starter motor_ removal and refitting

WIE

Removal 1 The starter motor is removed from beneath the vehicle. Raise the vehicle on ramps,

or drive it over a pit and apply the handbrake and securely chock the rear wheels.

2 Disconnect the battery earth (negative) lead. 3 Disconnect the main lead and the command lead from the starter motor solenoid (see illustrations). 4 Remove the bolt which secures the tail bracket to the block (see _ illustration). On some models there may be two such bolts.

14.4 Starter motor tail bracket bolt

(arrowed)

5°8 Engine electrical systems

14.5 Removing a starter motor-to-gearbox bolt

15.1 Tail bracket securing nuts (arrowed). Note correct fitting of bracket as it can be fitted 180° out

5 Support the motor and remove the three bolts which secure it to the transmission (see illustration). Remove the motor.

Refitting 6 When

refitting,

leave

the _ tail

bracket-to-motor nuts loose until the motor and bracket bolts have been fitted and

tightened. 7 Tighten the motor-to-transmission bolts to the specified torque. Tighten’ the bracket-to-block bolts(s) next and _ finally tighten the bracket-to-motor nuts. 8 Reconnect the command and main leads to the solenoid. 9 Reconnect the battery and check for correct operation.

15.3 Removing the C-washer (arrowed) from the end of the armature shaft

15.5 Starter motor with commutator end cover removed

Bosch short frame 1 Remove the starter motor from the vehicle and detach its tail bracket (see illustration). 2 Disconnect the link lead from the solenoid terminal (see illustration). 3 Remove the two screws which secure the armature end cap. Remove the cap, the C-washer and plain washer(s) (see illustration). Wipe away grease from the end of the armature shaft. 4 Remove the two through-bolts or studs. If

15.4a

Using the tail bracket nuts, locked together, to unscrew a stud

15.7a Brushgear fitted to reduction gear type motor

15.2 Disconnecting the link lead from the solenoid terminal the stud nuts are inaccessible, lock two nuts onto the end of the stud and use them to unscrew it (see illustrations). 5 Remove the commutator end cover to expose the brushgear (see illustration). 6 Carefully withdraw the brushplate from the commutator. The brushes will be released with some force. To avoid damage, unclip them by pressing their holders towards the commutator as the brushplate is withdrawn. 7 Remove the old brushes and fit the new ones. On the reduction gear type of motor, the brushes are handled in pairs, each pair sharing a clip which fits over the brushplate (see illustration). Otherwise, the brush leads must be removed from the stand-off connectors and the clips on the new leads soldered to the connectors (see illustration).

15.4b

Removing a stud - note cup washer (arrowed)

15.7b Brushplate and brushes - Bosch short frame starter motor 1 Stand-off connector

2 Clip

Engine electrical systems

5e¢9

8 Clean the commutator with a rag moistened in petrol or other suitable solvent. 9 Fit the brushplate over the commutator. Either clip the brushes in place after locating the brushplate, or use a tube of suitable diameter to keep the brushes retracted during

fitting (see illustrations). Either way it is a fiddly business. 10 Refit the commutator end cover and secure it with the through-bolts or studs. 11 Refit the plain washer(s) to the end of the armature shafts and secure with the C-washer. Apply some grease to the shaft, then refit and secure the cap. 12 Reconnect the link lead to the solenoid. Refit the tail bracket, making sure that it is the right way round, but only tighten its nuts finger tight for now. 13 Refit the starter motor.

15.9a Fitting the brushes after locating the brushplate A Brush

B Spring

15.9b

Using a socket to keep the brushes retracted

C Holder

Bosch EV 14 Remove the starter motor from the vehicle and clean it thoroughly, then unscrew the nuts securing the tail bracket and withdraw it (if still fitted). 15 Undo the two retaining screws and remove the end cap (see illustration). 16 Wipe clean the end of the armature shaft,

then prise the C-washer from the groove in the shaft’s end. Remove the plain washer(s). 17 Unscrew the two through-bolts, then remove the commutator end cover. 18 Unscrew the nut and disconnect the brush link lead from the solenoid’s terminal stud. 19 Withdraw the thrustplate assembly (taking care to release the spring pressure from each brush before disturbing the assembly so as not to damage the brushes) then release the brushes from their holders in the brushplate. 20 Clean and inspect the brush assemblies. If any of the brushes have worn down to, or beyond, the specified minimum length they must be renewed as a set. To renew the brushes, their leads must be unsoldered from the brushplate terminals then the new brush leads soldered in their place. 21 Before refitting the brushes, check the condition of the commutator face on which they run. Wipe the commutator with a petrolmoistened cloth. If the commutator is dirty, it may be cleaned with fine glass paper, then wiped with the cloth. 22 Position the brushplate over the commutator (see illustration) and refit the brush holders, springs and brushes onto the brushplate, ensuring that the holders’ securing lugs are positively located. Make sure that the brushes move freely in their holders. 23 Refit the commutator end cover and secure it with the throughbolts. Connect the brush link lead to the solenoid’s terminal stud and secure it with the nut. 24 Refit the plain washer(s) to the end of the armature shaft and secure with the C-washer. Apply some grease to the shaft then refit and

Commutator end cap C-washer Washers Commutator end cover

Brushes

Brush plate Yoke ANDAAWNH™ Through bolts

15.15 Bosch EV starter motor brush assembly

secure the end cap. Finally, refit the tail bracket, tightening its retaining nuts only lightly at first.

Lucas/Magneti Marelli M8OR 25 Remove the starter motor from the vehicle and clean it thoroughly, then unscrew the nuts securing the tail bracket and withdraw it (if still fitted). 26 Undo the two screws and remove the commutator end cover and the plastic insulator (see illustration). 27 Unscrew the retaining nut and disconnect

the brush link lead from the solenoid’s terminal stud. 28 Withdraw the brushplate assembly (taking care to release the spring pressure from each brush before disturbing the assembly so as not to damage the brushes) then release the brushes from their holders in the brushplate.

15.26 Lucas/Magneti Marelli (M80R) starter motor brush assembly

15.22 Refitting brushplate to commutator

1 Screws 2 Commutator end cover 3 Insulator

4 Brushplate

5 Brush 6 Brush spring 7 Brush clip

5°10

Engine electrical systems temperature of the switch was not known at the time of writing. A defective switch must be renewed.

Removal 4 To remove the switch, first drain the cooling system. 5 Unplug the switch electrical connector. Unscrew the switch and remove it. Recover

the fibre washer (see illustration).

Refitting

15.32

Correct location of insulator and brush connections

29 Clean and inspect the brush assemblies. If any of the brushes have worn down to or beyond the minimum length specified, they must be renewed as a set. 30 Before refitting the brushes, check the condition of the commutator face on which they run. Wipe the commutator with a petrol moistened cloth. If the commutator is dirty, it may be cleaned with fine glass paper then wiped with the cloth. 31 Fit the new brushes and reassemble the motor using a reversal of the dismantling procedure. Make sure that the brushes move freely in their holders. 32 Refit the plastic insulator (see illustration), the commutator end cover and the support bracket, securing them with the screws and nuts. Connect the brush link lead to the solenoid’s terminal stud and secure it with the nut. Finally, refit the tail bracket, tightening its retaining nuts only lightly at first.

16Engine oila sensor -ie

and ble _

2|:

Removal 1 The oil level sensor is only fitted to high level models with the auxiliary warning system. It is located on the rear face of the block

6 Refit the switch using a new fibre washer and a little sealant on the threads. Plug in the electrical connector. 7 Refill the cooling system.

at the

flywheel

end,

more

or

less

18 Tonperaaie gaugesender -nee

3 Guide tube 4 Blanking plug

47 Radiator fan switch - testing, a _femoval and refitting

ke

1 The temperature gauge sender is screwed into the thermostat housing. If it malfunctions it must be renewed. 2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 3 Place a thick cloth over the expansion tank cap. Turn the cap anti-clockwise to the first

16.3 Engine oil level sensor

1 Wiring plug 2 Sensor

:

Nx x

Testing 1 The radiator fan switch is located on the thermostat elbow. If it fails, the fan may run all the time (switch short-circuit) or not at all (open-circuit). 2 Ashort-circuit failure will be self-evident. To check for open-circuit failure, unplug the switch electrical connector and bridge the connector terminals with a screwdriver blade. With the ignition on, the fan should run - if not, the fan itself, or its wiring, must be at fault. If the fan runs now but did not when controlled by the switch, and overheating was occurring, the switch is almost certainly at fault. 3 The switch may be tested off the vehicle by using a low voltage test lamp across the switch contacts. The precise operating

stop, allow any pressure to escape, then remove and refit the cap. This will depressurise the system and minimise coolant loss. 4 Disconnect the wire from the temperature gauge sender (see illustration). 5 Apply a little sealant to the threads of the new sender unit and have it ready for installation. Unscrew and remove the old

sender and screw in and tighten the new one. 6 Connect the wire to the new sender unit. 7 Reconnect the battery earth lead. 8 Run the engine to operating temperature and check the gauge for correct operation. 9 Stop the engine and allow it to cool. Check the coolant level and top-up if necessary.

19 Crankshaft Pestonsensor =_ renewal

:

1 The crankshaft position (engine speed) sensor is screwed into the flywheel housing. If it malfunctions it must be renewed.

opposite the dipstick. 2 Access to this side of the engine is not good. It may be improved by removing the air cleaner. 3 Unplug the sensor from the wiring harness and withdraw it from its tube (see illustration). If a new sensor is not to be fitted immediately, fit a blanking plug - this is essential if the engine is to be run.

Refitting 4 Fit the new sensor and press it home in its

tube. Connect the wiring harness plug. 5 Switch on the ignition and check for correct operation. 6 Refit any other disturbed components.

17.5 Removing the radiator fan switch (thermostat housing removed)

18.4 Temperature gauge sender and connector

Engine electrical systems

5¢11

19.4 Unplug the electrical connector from the crankshaft position sensor

20.1 Oil pressure switch (arrowed)

21.1 Fusible links (arrowed) are attached to the battery positive terminal

2 Disconnect the battery earth lead. 3 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 4 Unplug the electrical connector from the sensor (see illustration). 5 Undo the sensor retaining bolt and carefully withdraw the sensor. 6 Fitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the retaining bolt to the specified torque setting.

3 Unplug the electrical connector from the

entire electrical system is protected by two fusible links. One link protects the preheater system, which is otherwise unfused, and the other protects the remaining circuits. Each link consists of a length of wire which is attached to the battery positive terminal at one end and soldered into the wiring harness at the other (see illustration). If the current passing through the link exceeds a certain value, the link will melt and break the circuit.

switch. 4 Unscrew and remove the old sender.

Refitting 5 Clean the switch location in the head. 6 Apply a little sealant to the threads of the new switch and screw it into position, _tightening to the specified torque loading. 7 Reconnect the electrical connector to the switch. 8 Reconnect the battery earth lead. 9 Start the engine and check the switch for correct operation.

21 Fusible links Removal 1 The engine oil pressure switch is screwed into the left-hand side of the cylinder head (see illustration). If it malfunctions it must be renewed. 2 Disconnect the battery earth lead.

:

description and renewal

from

the starter

motor

2 Should a link melt, this can only be due toa serious short-circuit. The short must be found and rectified before the link is renewed. The job should be entrusted to a Ford dealer or other competent specialist. 3 Do not attempt to repair a melted link using ordinary insulated wire. Although the electrical system will work, the protection afforded by the link will be missing. Should a short-circuit occur again, serious damage or even fire could result.

Why

Description 1 Apart

Renewal

feed

lead

(which also carries the alternator output), the

5°12

Engine electrical systems

ee e e e Notes

6e1

Chapter 6 Emissions control systems Contents Catalytic converter - general information and precautions ........ Catalytic converter - removal and refitting

1

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system - Bosch injection only ...

3

Degrees of difficulty “ S ~

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult, LN Difficult, suitable for suitable for competent NS experienced DIY DIY mechanic mechanic

x

S NES

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications Torque wrench settings

Nm

Ibf ft

Catalytic converter flange joint nuts LOM

ee we

eae

STrece

AU INES ieee

48 to 64

35 to 47

26 to 30

..

35 to 40 2to3

EGR valve exhaust supply pipe bolts ........

17 to 22 20 to 25

12 to 16 15 to 18

EGR vacuum regulator valve-to-pump bolts EGR valve-to-inlet manifold Allen bolts

General information The

exhaust

gases

of

any _ internal

combustion engine (however efficient or welltuned) which burns hydrocarbon-based fuel consist largely (approximately 99%) of nitrogen (N,), carbon dioxide (CO.), oxygen (O,) and other inert gases and water vapour (HO). The remaining 1% is made up of the

noxious materials which are currently seen as the major polluters of the environment, ie. carbon monoxide (CO), unburned hydrocarbons (HC), oxides of nitrogen (NO,) and some solid matter, including a small lead content.

Left to themselves, most of these pollutants are thought eventually to break down naturally (CO and NO,, for example, break down in the upper atmosphere to release CO,) having first caused ground-level environmental problems, but the massive increase world-wide in the use of motor vehicles and the current popular

concern for the environment has caused the introduction in most countries of legislation, in varying stages of severity, to combat the problem. The device most commonly used to clean up vehicle exhausts is the catalytic converter. It is fitted into the vehicle’s exhaust system and consists of an element (or substrate) of ceramic honeycomb coated with a combination of precious metals in such a way as to produce a vast surface area over which the exhaust gases must flow; the whole being mounted in a stainless-steel box. The simple oxidation (or two-way) catalytic converter fitted to diesel engines uses platinum and palladium as catalysts to speed up the reaction between the pollutants and the oxygen in the vehicle’s exhaust gases, CO and HC being oxidised to form H,O and CO,. Note that the catalytic converter is not a filter in the physical sense; its function is to

promote a chemical reaction, but it is not itself affected by that reaction.

Precautions The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance in

1to2

itself, but there are some facts of which an owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life: a) There is no need to worry about using leaded/unleaded fuel in a vehicle equipped with a catalytic converter and a diesel engine - no diesel fuel has added lead. b) Always keep the fuel system wellmaintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s schedule. Ensure that the air cleaner filter element and the fuel filter are renewed at the correct intervals. If the inlet air/fuel mixture is allowed to become too rich due to neglect, the unburned surplus will enter and burn in the catalytic converter, overheating the element and eventually destroying the converter. c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the vehicle at all (or at least as little as possible) until the fault is cured. A misfire will allow unburned fuel to enter the converter, which will result in its overheating, as noted above. For the same reason do not persist if the engine ever refuses to start. Either trace the problem and cure it yourself or have the

6e2

Emissions control systems

vehicle checked immediately by a qualified mechanic. Never allow the vehicle to run out of fuel. d) DO NOT push-or tow-start the vehicle -

this will soak the catalytic converter in unburned fuel, causing it to overheat when the engine does start. e) Try to avoid repeated successive cold starts

with short journeys. If the converter is never allowed to reach its proper working temperature it will gather unburned fuel, allowing some to pass into the atmosphere and the rest to soak the element with unbumed fuel thereby causing it to overheat when the engine does start.

f) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives as these may contain substances harmful to the catalytic converter. g) NEVER use silicon-based sealants on any part of the air inlet/inlet manifold, or any kind of sealant on exhaust system joints forward of the catalytic converter. If pieces of sealant (however small) should break off, they will be carried into the

converter and cause it to overheat locally. h) DO NOT continue to use the vehicle if the engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a visible trail of blue smoke. Unburned carbon deposits will clog the converter passages and reduce its efficiency; in severe cases the element will overheat. i) Remember that the catalytic converter operates at very high temperatures (hence the heat shields on the vehicle’s underbody) and the casing will become hot enough to ignite combustible materials which brush against it. DO NOT, therefore, park the vehicle in dry undergrowth, over long grass or piles of dead leaves. j) Remember that the catalytic converter is FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools during servicing work, take great care when working on the exhaust system, ensure that the converter is well clear of

any jacks or other lifting gear used to raise the vehicle and do not drive the vehicle over rough ground, roadhumps, etc., in

such a way as to ground the exhaust system. k) The catalytic converter, used on a well-

maintained and well-driven vehicle, should last for between 50 000 and 100 000 miles. From this point on, careful checks should be made at all specified service intervals to ensure that the converter is still operating efficiently. If the converter is no longer effective it must be renewed.

3. Exhaust Gas Recirculation —

_

2 Catalytic converter removal and refitting

that the mounting nearest the converter is of the correct type. Due to the converter’s high operating temperatures, this mounting must be of high-temperature resistant material.

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