Haynes Ford Mondeo 2003 to 2007 Owners Workshop Manual [4619] 1844256197, 9781844256198

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FORD MONDEO | July 2003 to 2007 (03 to 56 reg) Petrol & Diesel |

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step-by-step maintenance and repair

The best selling car manuals in the world

and not forgetting... We don’t just publish car manuals, you know! In addition to the hundred and fifty million car and bike manuals we have sold worldwide, Haynes also produce a wide range of practical books and manuals on subjects such as home DIY, computing, caravanning, cycling and driving tuition - and there’s our innovative and highly successful Family Series as well. No matter what the subject, our essential no-nonsense, easy-to-follow approach remains the same. Haynes

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Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Telephone 01963 442030 E-mail [email protected] * Website Sweden

018 124016 * USA

805 498-6703 © Australia

www.haynes.co.uk

613 9763-8100

illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities in whichever jurisdiction the offence takes place.

Ford Mondeo

Owners Workshop Manual RM Jex (4619 - 400)

Models covered Hatchback, Saloon & Estate, including special/limited editions

Petrol: 1.8 litre (1798cc) & 2.0 litre (1999cc) 4-cylinder, 2.5 litre (2499cc*) & 3.0 litre (2967cc) V6, inc. ST220 “also listed as 2495cc or 2544cc

Turbo-diesel: 2.0 litre (1998cc) & 2.2 litre (2198cc) TDCi Does NOT cover 1.8 litre SCi direct injection petrol engine

© Haynes Publishing 2007

ABCDE

A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series

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FGHIJ KLMNO

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

ISBN 978 1 84425 619 8 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

FORD

MONDEO

Safety first!

Page

0°5

Introduction to the Ford Mondeo

Page

0°6

If your car won’t start

Page

07

Jump starting

Page

098

Wheel changing

Page

0O*9

Roadside repairs

Identifying leaks

Page

0°10

Towing

Page

0°10

Page

Oe11

Weekly checks Introduction Underbonnet check points

Page

Oe11

Engine oil level

Page

0¢12

Coolant level

Page

0¢13

Screen washer fluid level

Page

0913

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0°14

Brake (and clutch) fluid level

Page

0°15

Power steering fluid level

Page

0°15

Page

0°16

Page

0°16

Electrical systems

Page

0°17

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0°18

Tyre pressures

Page 0918

Wiper blades

Battery

|

;

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Petrol models

Page

1Ae1

Servicing specifications

Page

1Ae2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1Ae3

Maintenance procedures

Page

1A°7

Page

1Be1

Servicing specifications

Page

1Be2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1Be3

Maintenance procedures

Page

1Be6

Diesel models

Iliegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks, Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems 1.8 and 2.0 litre petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ae1

V6 petrol engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Be1

Diesel engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ce1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

2De1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Page

3e1

Fuel and exhaust systems — petrol models

Page

4Ae1

Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel models

Page

4Be1

Emission control systems

Page

4Ce1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5Ae1

Ignition system — petrol models

Page

5Be1

Preheating system — diesel models

Page

5Ce1

Page

6¢e1

Manual transmission

Page

7Ae1

Automatic transmission

Page

7Be1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Braking system

Page

96-1

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11¢1

Body electrical systems

Page

12¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 12°31

Transmission Clutch

‘

Brakes and suspension

Body equipment

REFERENCE Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Vehicle identification

Page

REFe4

General repair procedures

Page

REFe5

Jacking and vehicle support

Page

REFe6

Disconnecting the battery

Page

REFe7

Tools and working facilities

Page

REFe8&

MOT test checks

Page REFe10

Fault finding

Page REFe14

Glossary of technical terms

Page REFe24

Index

Page REFe30

o4 Advanced Driving

Advanced driving For many people, the process of ‘learning to drive’ doesn’t go much further than learning how to pass the driving test because of a common belief that good drivers are made by ‘experience’.

(Whoops, that was

Concentration means applying your mind to safe driving, completely excluding anything that’s not relevant. Driving is usually the most dangerous activity that most of us undertake in our daily routines. It deserves our full attention.

close!) Good handling skills. (Horn, swerve, brake, horn).

Observation means not just looking, but seeing and seeking out the information found

Reliance on vehicle technology.

in the driving environment.

Learning to drive by ‘experience’ three driving skills:

Quick reactions.

| Many

people

see

the

words

driving’ and believe that it won’t interest them or that it is a style of driving beyond their own abilities.

Nothing could be further from the

truth. Advanced driving is straightforward safe, sensible driving - the sort of driving we should all do every time we get behind the wheel.

An average of 10 people are killed every day on UK roads and 870 more are injured, some seriously. Lives are ruined daily, usually because somebody did something stupid. Something like 95% of all accidents are due to human error, mostly driver failure. Sometimes we make genuine mistakes everyone does. Sometimes we have lapses of concentration. Sometimes we deliberately take risks.

teaches

(Great

stuff this ABS, stop in no distance even in the wet...)

‘advanced

Drivers whose skills are ‘experience based’ generally have a lot of near misses and the odd accident. The results can be seen every day in our courts and our hospital casualty departments. Advanced drivers have learnt to control the risks by controlling the position and speed of

their vehicle. They avoid accidents and near misses, even if the drivers around them make mistakes.

The

these skills, all driving situations can be approached and negotiated in a safe, methodical way, leaving nothing to chance.

key

skills

of advanced

driving

are

concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. When good vehicle handling is added to

Anticipation means asking yourself what is happening, what you can reasonably expect to happen and what could happen unexpectedly. (One of the commonest words used in compiling accident reports is ‘suddenly’.) Planning is the link between seeing something and taking the appropriate action. For many drivers, planning is the missing link. If you want to become a safer and more skilful driver and you want to enjoy your driving more, contact the Institute of Advanced Motorists at www.iam.org.uk, phone 0208 996 9600, or write to IAM House, 510 Chiswick High Road, London W4 5RG for an information pack.

Safety First! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential

risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards Scalding ® Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing e When working under or near a raised vehicle, ra

always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use

ce

¢ Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances =

&8

Wy

drive-on ramps. Never venture

under a car which is only supported by a jack. e Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel

fuel. Don’t syphon thenyby mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). ¢ Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. ° Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Electric shock @ Ignition HT

=

voltage canbe dangerous, especially to ie people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are

exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e¢ When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves

and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which

attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the

steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands,

face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... DO

DON’T

e Do use eye protection when using power

¢ Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

tools, and when working under the vehicle.

e Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. ¢ Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

e Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. e Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system.

© Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

e Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

e Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. e Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once. e Don’t allow children or pets to play in or

near a vehicle being worked on.

og INtroduction The braking system has discs all round, with ABS, Emergency Brake Assist (EBA) and Electronic Brakeforce Distribution (EBD) for extra safety when braking in emergency situations. ; The Mondeo features highly-developed fully-independent suspension. All models have MacPherson struts at the front, located by transverse lower wishbones. Saloon and Hatchback models also have struts at the rear, located by Ford’s Quadralink arrangement of transverse and trailing arms. The Estate rear suspension features separate springs and shock absorbers, primarily to give maximum loadspace, but also designed to maintain the excellent ride and handling when heavilyloaded. The power steering is speed-sensitive, providing more assistance during parking and at low speeds. Provided regular servicing is carried out, the Mondeo should prove a reliakle and economical car.

Your Ford Mondeo Originally introduced in October 2000, the latest Ford Mondeo is available in four-door Saloon,

five-door

Hatchback

and

five-door

Estate configurations. This manual covers the

facelifted range introduced in July 2003 — on the surface, this was merely a cosmetic exercise to refresh the car’s appearance, but a number of important revisions were also made. The range was simplified and further revised in May 2005. The 1.8 and 2.0 litre chain-driven DuratecHE 16-valve four-cylinder petrol engines continued largely unchanged. Alongside the existing 24-valve 2.5 litre V6, a new 3.0 litre unit was unveiled, offering 200 bhp (and later, 220 bhp) performance. The common-rail TDCi diesel engine range grew from the existing 2.0 litre 16-valve 115 and 130 versions, with the arrival of a new 2.2 litre 155 engine, and an entry-level 2.0 litre 90 TDCi unit.

All engines are equipped with the latest control technology — petrol engines have Ford’s Black Oak system, while diesel engines use Ford EEC V management. The transverselymounted engine drives the front roadwheels through a 5- or 6-speed manual transmission with a hydraulically-operated clutch, or a 4- or 5-speed automatic transmission. All models feature a high level of equipment, with occupant safety in accidents a high design priority. The Mondeo has two-stage driver and front passenger airbags, front seat side airbags, side curtain airbags, and seat belt tensioners — this forms what Ford call an Intelligent Protection System, which is designed to only deploy as necessary, specific to the number of occupants, and the circumstances and severity of the accident.

manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate — if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically. References to the ‘left’ and ‘right’ of the car are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but car manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular car of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Roadside repairs o-7 The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn [_]

If it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector isinPorN. Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal [_]

Is there fuel in the tank? Has the engine immobiliser been deactivated? This should happen automatically when the key is inserted and turned to the first position. Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet?

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is

Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with

probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (See next page) using a friend’s car.

a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. (Note that diesel engines don’t usually suffer from damp).

Check the condition and security of the battery connections.

Check that the HT leads are securely connected to the spark plugs and coils (petrol models).

Check the engine wiring loom multiplugs for security.

Check that the fuel cut-off switch has not been activated (diesel models).

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

ce Check that none of the engine compartment fuses have blown.

os Roadside repairs Jump starting When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: Y

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

¥Y

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Y

Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle. If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go

flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

ae

Connect one end of the red jump lead to a the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

3 Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

FEET.

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

Roadside repairs oe9 Wheel changing .. Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as

it is safe to do so. Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or P on models with automatic transmission).

Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed — a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

Changing the wheel

ae

The spare wheel and tools are stored in the luggage compartment. Fold back the floor covering and lift up the cover panel, then unscrew the retainer, and lift the spare wheel out.

Unscrew the retainer, and lift the jack and wheelbrace out of the wheel well. The

screw-in towing eye is also provided in the wheel. well.

If necessary, use the flat end of the wheelbrace to prise off the centre cover or wheel trim to access the wheel nuts. Slacken each nut by a half turn, using the wheelbrace. If the nuts are too tight, DON’T

stand on the wheelbrace to undo them — contact a motoring organisation for help.

Use the jacking point nearest the punctured wheel. On models with side skirts, unclip the jacking point covers. The front jacking point is 27 cm (11”) from the front end of the sill, and the rear one is 10 cm (4”) from the rear end. Locate the jack head in the jacking point (don’t jack the car anywhere else), and turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is off the ground.

Unscrew the wheel nuts, noting which way round they fit (tapered side inwards), and remove the wheel. Where a locking wheel nut is fitted, use the special adapter.

Fit the spare wheel, and screw on the nuts. Lightly tighten the nuts with the wheelbrace.

Finally... Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car. Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure.

Lower the car to the ground and fully tighten the wheel nuts, then refit the wheel trim or centre cover, as applicable. Have the wheel nuts tightened to the correct torque at the earliest opportunity.

Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible. Caution: If a temporary space-saving spare wheel is fitted, do not exceed 50 mph and do not drive through an automatic car wash.

o-10 Roadside repairs identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide

where

the

leak

is coming

AN

from,

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Ss The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper

especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Sump oil

overnight

as an aid to locating

source of the leak. Remember that some

the

leaks may only

occur while the engine is running.

Oil from filter &

z

Ste

roe eel

\

cael

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

EON from the base of the oilfilter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

type, and is stored in the spare wheel well. The towing eye screws into the threaded hole below the right-hand headlight, accessible after prising out a cover in the bumper, and has a left-hand thread — ie, it screws in anti-clockwise (see illustration). A similar arrangement is used for the rear towing eye on models with the standard rear bumper. On ST models with the sports rear bumper, the rear towing eye is located on the right-hand side of the lower slot or grille - where necessary, unclip the grille panel for access. |_]Before being towed, release the handbrake and make sure the transmission is in neutral.

special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. |_|Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. _|The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. |_|Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. |_|Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the

On

junctions.

Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY

towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: | ]Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window.

| |Always turn the ignition key to the ‘On’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and the direction indicator and brake lights work. | |The front towing eye is of the screw-in

models

with

automatic

transmission,

distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at

Weekly checks o«11 Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example:

Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

_|lf your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. _jIf the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 2 Withdraw the oil level dipstick and unclip the engine plastic cover.

Crankshaft position sensor 3 The sensor is located in the top of the bellhousing to the rear. 4 For better access remove the air cleaner assembly as described in Section 3. 5 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew the mounting bolt and withdraw the sensor (see illustrations). Note: Before removing the sensor, mark the position of the retaining bolt, so that it can be refitted in the same place. 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Cylinder head temperature sensor 7 The switch is screwed into the left-hand (flywheel) end of the cylinder head, behind the

Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel models

4Be5

power steering pump pulley (see illustration). 8 To improve access to the switch, it will be necessary to remove the power steering pump

pulley, referring to Chapter 2C, Section 10. 9 It may also be helpful to release the air inlet hoses and move them to one side, as described in Section 3. 10 Trace the wiring from the sensor, and disconnect it at the plug, which is clipped to the brake vacuum pump (see illustration). 11 The sensor can now be unscrewed and removed (see illustration). However, the

length of wiring may make it difficult getting a tool to fit onto it. 12 Ultimately, it may be necessary to cut the sensor wiring, unscrew the sensor using a thinwall socket or box spanner, then remake the wiring after fitting, using a suitable connector. 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Clean the threads of the sensor and mounting hole, then refit the sensor and tighten it to the specified torque.

ABS wheel sensors 14

Previous Mondeos

had a vehicle speed

sensor, mounted on the transmission. Now, the sensor has been deleted, and vehicle

speed information is instead provided by the car’s ABS wheel sensors. Refer to Chapter 9.

7 oe

8.5b

... and withdraw the sensor

— the panel is secured by four screws and two upper clips. Unclip the diagnostic connector plug, and/or disconnect the climate control temperature sensor as the panel is removed. 25 Reach up and disconnect the wiring from the switch at the top of the pedal; there are two switches and if both switches are removed at once, take care to note which wiring plug serves which switch. 26 Slide the retaining clip down to release the switch, then twist the switch through 90° and remove it from the pedal bracket. 27 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note: A new retaining clip will be required.

7

8.7 The cylinder head temperature sensor (arrowed) negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). This is essential to avoid damaging the module. 30 Unclip the plastic cover and remove the three outer retaining nuts from the right-hand strut top mounting — do not unscrew the strut’s centre nut. Note: DO NOT jack up the front of the car while the strut upper mounting nuts are removed. 31 Unclip the cover from the right-hand strut top mounting brace and undo the retaining nuts and bolts, then remove it from the car. 32

A security shield is riveted over the PCM,

and it will be necessary to drill out the rivet(s) to remove the shield and earth cable (see illustration overleaf).

Temperature and manifold absolute pressure sensor

Accelerator pedal sensor 28 The accelerator pedal sensor is integral

15 The T-MAP sensor is mounted on the air inlet duct which runs along the front of the engine subframe, below the radiator. 16 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor. 17 Unscrew and remove the two mounting bolts, and withdraw the sensor from the inlet duct. 18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, ensuring that the wiring plug is securely reconnected and the sensor is fitted securely to the inlet duct.

Caution: The PCM earth cable is connected

with the pedal assembly, which is removed as

behind the security shield rivet. Take care not to damage the earth cable when drilling through the rivet. 33 Unclip the wiring harness from along the right-hand inner wing panel. 34 Undo the retaining bolt and release the wiring connector from the PCM - to prevent dust and dirt entering the multiplug, cover it with a polythene bag. 35 From inside the car, unclip the generic

EGR valve 19 Refer to Chapter 4C, Section 4.

Clutch pedal position switch 20

Remove the trim panel above the driver’s

footwell to gain access to the clutch pedal — the panel is secured by four screws and two upper clips. Unclip the diagnostic connector

described in Section 4.

Powertrain Control Module Caution: The PCM is fragile. Take care not to drop it or subject it to any other kind of impact, and do not subject it to extremes of temperature, or allow it to get wet. Do not touch the PCM terminals as there is a chance that static electricity may damage the internal electronic components. Note: /f renewing the powertrain control module, note that it must be reprogrammed for the specific model by a Ford dealer using the WDS2000 diagnostic equipment. Failure to do so will result in the PCM assuming its ‘limited operating strategy’ (LOS) settings giving poor performance and economy. 29 Ensure that the ‘ignition’ is switched off — take out the key. Disconnect the battery

electronic module (GEM) from the bracket (as described in Chapter 12). 36

PCM

Undo the retaining nut and withdraw the

PCM and mounting bracket from the driver’s side footwell. 37 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Whenever the PCM (or battery) is disconnected, the information relating to idle speed control and other operating values will be lost from its memory until the

plug, and/or disconnect the climate control temperature sensor as the panel is removed. 21 Reach up and disconnect the wiring from the clutch switch at the top of the pedal bracket.

22 Slide the retaining clip (where fitted) down to release the switch, then twist the switch anti-clockwise and remove it from the pedal bracket. 23 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note: A new retaining clip will be required.

Brake pedal position switch 24 Remove the trim panel above the driver’s footwell to gain access to the clutch pedal

8.10 Detach the wiring connector from the retaining bracket

8.11

Unscrew the sensor (arrowed) — note the wiring is part of the sensor

4Be6

Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel models 43 The IDM must be electronically ‘configured’ to the powertrain control module (PCM), this must be done by your Ford dealer, as specialised electronic equipment is required.

Mass airflow (MAF) sensor 44 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 45 Remove the air cleaner assembly as described in Section 3. Unscrew and remove the sensor mounting bolts and withdraw the sensor from the air cleaner cover. 46 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Ensure that the sensor and air cleaner cover are seated correctly and securely fastened, so that there are no air leaks.

Fuel pressure sensor 47 The fuel pressure sensor is screwed into the fuel rail, and is not intended to be removed. 48 Owing to the difficulty in ensuring a fueltight seal, the pressure sensor is not available separately, and can only be renewed with the fuel rail (see Section 11).

Fuel metering valve

J35137

8.32 Powertrain control module (PCM) (1) location unit has reprogrammed itself; until then, there may be surging, hesitation, erratic idle and a generally-inferior level of performance. To allow the PCM to relearn these values, start the engine and run it as close to idle speed as possible until it reaches its normal operating temperature, then run it for approximately two minutes at 1200 rpm. Next, drive the car as far as necessary — approximately 5 miles of varied driving conditions is usually sufficient — to complete the relearning process.

Injector driver module (IDM) 38 The module is located under the front of

the left-hand front wing (as viewed from the

driver’s seat). Note: On /ater models, the IDM

unit has been integrated into the PCM, and a separate unit is not fitted. 39 Remove the front bumper as described in

Chapter 11. 40 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the inlet pipe from under the left-hand wing (see illustration). Where applicable, disconnect the foglight’s wiring block connector from the clip on the inlet pipe. 41 Remove the shear bolts and detach the IDM unit from the housing cover (see illustration). 42 Support the IDM unit and disconnect the wiring connectors from the unit.

49 Remove the engine oil dipstick, then take off the engine’s plastic top cover. 50 Referring to Chapter 4C if necessary, remove the EGR cooler tube. 51 Cover the alternator with a plastic bag or similar, to protect it from any fuel which may be lost when the metering valve is removed. 52 Clean the area around the metering valve using a brush and suitable solvent - it is vital that no dirt enters the pump. 53 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel temperature sensor and from the metering valve, then remove the two mounting screws and withdraw the valve from the pump. Recover the valve’s O-ring seal — a new one

must be used when refitting. If the valve will be removed for some time, cover over or plug the valve opening in the pump, to stop dirt getting in. 54 Fit anew O-ring to the valve, and lubricate it lightly with a general-purpose spray lubricant (such as WD-40). 55 Fit the valve in position, and insert the bolts. Tighten them evenly and gently until the valve is secure. 56 Further refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit the EGR cooler tube as described in Chapter 4C.

Fuel temperature sensor

ee

8.40 Undo the retaining bolts (arrowed) to remove the air inlet pipe

8.41

Remove the shear bolts (arrowed) to release the injector driver module

57 Remove the engine oil dipstick, then take off the engine’s plastic top cover. 58 Cover the alternator with a plastic bag or similar, to protect it from any fuel which may be lost when the sensor is removed. 59 Clean the area around the sensor using a brush and suitable solvent — it is vital that no dirt enters the pump.

Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel models 60 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel temperature sensor, then unscrew and withdraw the sensor from the pump. If the sensor will be removed for some time, cover over or plug the opening in the pump, to stop

dirt getting in. 61 Fit a new O-ring to the sensor, and lubricate it lightly with a general-purpose spray lubricant (such as WD-40). 62 Screw the sensor into position, and tighten it to the specified torque. Reconnect the wiring plug, then refit the engine top cover and dipstick.

9

Fuel injection pump — removal and refitting

a Ss

~ Caution: Be careful not to allow dirt into the injection pump or injector pipes during this procedure. Note: /f a new injection pump is fitted, there is a possibility that the engine may not run

properly (or even at all) until the PCM has been electronically ‘configured’ using Ford diagnostic equipment. In particular, the immobiliser may not function correctly, leading to the engine not starting. Ford special tools will be required for the removal and refitting procedure of the fuel injection pump —- see text.

Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual).

2

|

9.5 Removing the damper from the engine mounting

2 Withdraw the oil level dipstick and unclip the engine plastic cover. 3 Undo the retaining bolts and move the coolant expansion bottle to one side.

4 Undo the retaining bolt(s) and move the power steering reservoir to one side. 5 Where applicable, undo the two damper retaining bolts and detach the damper from the engine mounting (see illustration). 6 Using the Ford special tool (303-679), unscrew the access cover anti-clockwise from the timing chain cover. A tool was made up using a three-legged puller and three bolts (see illustration). 7 Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation (using a spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley) until the timing hole in the injection pump sprocket is at the 1 o’clock position. Confirm this by temporarily fitting a 6 mm diameter timing pin (Such as a drill bit) through the sprocket, as described in Chapter 2C, Section 3 (see illustration). 8 Disconnect the glow plug supply wire, and move it to one side. 9 Referring to Chapter 4C if necessary, remove the EGR cooler tube. 10 Use the quick-release fittings (either by

4Be7

11 Remove the inlet manifold as described in Chapter 2C. 12 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel temperature sensor and from the fuel metering valve (see illustration). 13 Unscrew the nut and release the highpressure fuel line support clamp. 14 Before proceeding further, use a brush and suitable solvent to clean the area around the pump’s high-pressure union, and the area

around the pump itself. It is essential that no dirt enters the pump, as this could quickly ruin it. Allow time for any solvent used to dry. 15 Carefully loosen the high-pressure pipe union at the fuel pump and the one to the fuel supply rail. Ford recommend (if possible) that the tool used to loosen these unions is fitted at the top of the union, to reduce the chance

of damaging the union as it is loosened. 16 Once the unions are loose, wrap clean absorbent tissue or rag around them briefly, to soak away any dirt which may otherwise enter. If available, Ford recommend using a vacuum line to suck any dirt away from the opening union — do not use an airline, as this may blast

(models after December 2003), or unbolt the hose support bracket (see illustration).

dirt inwards, rather than cleaning it away. 17 Remove the high-pressure fuel pipe, and discard it - a new one should be used when refitting. Plug or tape over the open connections. 18 Fit Ford special tool 303-1151 to the timing cover, and turn it clockwise to lock the sprocket to the timing cover (see illustration). Make sure this tool does not slip as the pump mounting bolts and sprocket bolts are loosened.

9.6 Using a home-made tool to remove the access cover (engine mounting removed for clarity)

9.7 A6 mm drill bit (arrowed) locating fuel pump sprocket in the 1 o’clock position

squeezing the catches, or by lifting up the locking clip) to disconnect the two fuel return

hoses and the fuel supply hose from the highpressure pump. Plug or tape over the open connections - dirt must not be allowed to enter the pump. Noting how they are routed, either unclip the hoses and move them aside

H46084

9.10 Removing the fuel line retaining bracket - models up to December 2003

9.12 Disconnect the fuel metering valve wiring connectors (arrowed)

9.18 Special tool used to lock the pump sprocket in place

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Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel models

9.19 Access holes (arrowed) to fuel pump mounting bolts (timing cover removed for clarity) 19 Using Ford tool 310-083 (which appears to be a slim box spanner), loosen the three pump mounting bolts, accessible through the holes in the fuel pump sprocket (see illustration). Note: The bolts cannot be completely removed. 20 Undo the four sprocket retaining bolts, making sure the tool stays in place to lock the sprocket to the timing chain cover. 21 Unbolt and the injection pump rear support bracket from the cylinder block (see illustration). 22 Remove the fuel injection pump from the cylinder block. Recover and discard the gasket — anew one will be required on refitting. 23 On models up to December 2003, unbolt the fuel supply pipe union from the fuel pump. 24 If a new pump is being fitted, unbolt and remove the support bracket and shield from the old unit, and transfer them to the new one — tighten the bolts by hand only at this stage.

Refitting 25 On models up to December 2003, fit the fuel supply pipe to the pump, and tighten the union to the specified torque. 26 Using a 6 mm pin (drill bit), align the hole in the pump drive pulley with the cut-out provided in the pump rotor mounting face. With the cut-out aligned, remove the 6 mm

pin. 27 Offer the pump into position, with a new gasket (see illustration). Apply a little threadlocking fluid to the threads of the support bracket bolts, then fit them hand-tight only at this stage.

10.5 Hold the injector with one spanner, while slackening the pipe union

9.21

Unb olt the pump rear support bracket (arrowed)

28 With the fuel pump in position, fit the three fuel pump mounting bolts through the holes provided in the fuel pump sprocket, and tighten them to their specified torque setting, using Ford tool 310-083 if necessary. 29 Install the four sprocket retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. Remove the sprocket locking tool 303-1151 by unscrewing it anti-clockwise from the timing cover. Refit the timing cover access cover, screwing it clockwise into place, using the same tool as described in paragraph 6. 30 Tighten the fuel pump support bracket bolts (pbump-to-bracket and bracket-to-engine) to the specified torque. Where removed, also tighten the pump shield bolts — the larger one of the three should be tightened to the specified torque. 31 Reconnect all the disturbed fuel pipes and hoses, bolting them or clipping them back into place, routed as noted prior to removal. 32 Fit a new high-pressure pipe, and tighten the unions by hand until the pipe support clamp has been refitted and tightened. When refitting, do not bend or strain the pipe, and make sure it is kept clean. Also, do not allow the union nuts to hit the olive-shaped ends

of the pipe during fitting, as this may.result in damage. 33 Tighten both high-pressure unions to the specified torque, noting the point made in paragraph 15. 34 Further refitting is a reversal of removal. If anew pump has been fitted, fit a new fuel filter as described in Chapter 1B, then prime the fuel system as described in Section 2.

10.6a

Disconnecting the injector pipe from the fuel supply rail

9.27 Fitting new gasket - note the cut out (arrowed) 35 Start the engine, and let it idle, noting that it may take a while before a stable idle speed is achieved, as the powertrain control module (PCM) may have to relearn some of the ‘adaptive’ values. As the engine warmsup, check for signs of leakage from the fuel unions. If no leakage is evident, take the car for a short journey (of at least 5 miles) to allow the PCM to complete its ‘learning’ process. 36 If a new injection pump has been fitted, refer to the Note at the start of this Section.

10 Injection pipes removal and refitting

oe eS

EN

Caution: Be careful not to allow dirt into the injection system during this procedure.

Removal 1 The fuel injection pipes should be removed as a set. At the time of writing, it is not clear whether individual pipes are available. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 3 Withdraw the oil level dipstick and unclip the engine plastic cover. 4 Before proceeding further, use a brush and suitable solvent to clean the area around the high-pressure unions. It is essential that no dirt enters the system. Allow time for any solvent used to dry. 5 Using a spanner to hold the injectors from turning, slacken the union at each injector (see illustration). 6 Slacken the four injector supply pipe unions at the fuel supply rail and, if required, the union at either end of the pump-to-rail supply pipe (see illustrations). Unscrew the nut and release the high-pressure fuel line support clamp. 7 Once the unions are loose, wrap clean absorbent tissue or rag around them briefly, to soak away any dirt which may otherwise enter. lf available, Ford recommend using a vacuum

line to suck any dirt away from the opening union — do not use an airline, as this may blast dirt inwards, rather than cleaning it away. 8 With all the unions slackened, the fuel pipes can now be completely disconnected and

Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel models

4Be9

removed. Fit blanking plugs to the injectors (see illustration), supply rail and fuel pump unions to prevent dirt ingress. 9 Discard the fuel injection pipes, as Ford recommend that new pipes must always be

used when refitting.

Refitting 10 When refitting, do not bend or strain the pipes, and make sure they are kept clean. Also, do not allow the union nuts to hit the olive-shaped ends of the pipes during fitting, as this may result in damage. 11 Refit the pipe assemblies to the injectors, supply rail and injection pump, initially handtightening the union nuts. With all the fuel injection pipes in place, fully tighten the union nuts to the specified torque. Caution: The injectors are not to turn from their position in the cylinder head - a special tool is used to align the injectors (see Section 12) 12 Reconnect the battery negative (earth) lead. 13 If only the pipes have been removed, there should be no need to bleed the system (Section 2). 14 Run the engine and check the disturbed unions for leaks.

11 Fuel supply (common) rail — removal and refitting

WH Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 2 Withdraw the oil level dipstick and unclip the engine plastic cover. 3 Referring to Chapter 4C if necessary, remove the EGR cooler tube. 4 Remove the inlet manifold as described in Chapter 2C. 5 Remove the injection pipes as described in Section 10. 6 Disconnect the wiring plug from the fuel temperature sensor, and from the fuel metering valve. 7 Remove a total of three fuel rail mounting bolts, then remove two further bolts at each end from the rail mounting brackets. Lift off the fuel rail

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10.6b Disconnect the fuel pump pipe from the fuel rail (inlet manifold removed for clarity) bolts to the specified torque, then tighten the three fuel rail mounting bolts. 11 With all the fuel injection pipes in place, fully tighten the union nuts to the specified torque. Caution:

The

injectors

are

not

to turn

from their position in the cylinder head - a special tool is used to align the injectors (see Section 12) 12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

12 Fuel injectors removal, testing and refitting

10.8

Fitting blanking plugs to the injectors

2 Remove the camshaft cover as described in Chapter 2C. 3 Slacken the fuel injector locking sleeves until they are all the way

off, then

remove

the fuel injectors from the cylinder head (see illustration). Note: The injectors may be tight - carefully work them until they can be withdrawn. 4 Recover the sealing washers and O-rings from each injector (see illustration), and discard them — new washers/O-rings must be used on reassembly. 5 Take care not to drop the injectors, nor allow the needles at their tips to become damaged.

WYK; Warning: Exercise extreme caution when working on the fuel injectors. Never expose the hands or any part of the body to injector spray, as the high working pressure can cause the fuel to penetrate the skin, with possibly fatal results. You are strongly advised to have any work which involves testing the injectors under pressure carried out by a dealer or fuel injection specialist. Caution: Be careful not to allow dirt into the injection system during this procedure. Note: Ford special tools will be required for the refitting procedure of the fuel injectors — See) TEXT.

Testing 6 Testing of injectors requires a special high-pressure test rig, and is best left to a professional. If the skin is exposed to spray from the injectors, the pressure is high enough for diesel

fuel to penetrate

the skin,

with

potentially fatal results. 7 Defective injectors should be renewed or professionally repaired. DIY repair is not a practical proposition.

Refitting

Removal

8 Commence refitting by inserting new washers to the injector bores and fitting Oring seals to the injectors (see illustration). 9 Insert the injectors, using the Ford tool (303-711) to align the injectors in the cylinder

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). Clean around the injectors and the injection pipe unions.

two cut-outs can be fabricated to lock two of the injectors, to prevent them from turning. 10 With the injectors held in position, tighten

12.3 Slacken the locking sleeve and remove the fuel injectors

12.4 Remove the O-ring seals and discard them

head (see illustration). Note: A flat bar with

Refitting 8 Offer the fuel rail into position, then fit the mounting and support bracket bolts, handtight only. 9 Fit new high-pressure pipes to the fuel rail, injectors and fuel pump, leaving the union nuts hand-tight only at this stage. Do not bend or strain the pipes, and make sure they are kept clean. Also, do not allow the union nuts to hit the olive-shaped ends of the pipes during fitting, as this may result in damage. 10 Tighten the four fuel rail support bracket

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Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel models

12.8 Renew the injector sealing washer (A) and O-ring seal (B)

12.9 Aligning the injectors using a flat metal bar with two cut-outs

the locking sleeve to the correct torque setting, using Ford special socket (303-677). 11 Refit the camshaft cover (Chapter 2C). 12 Check the position of the injectors using the Ford special tool (803-711) or equivalent when refitting the fuel pipes (see illustration). 13 Reconnect the battery negative (earth) lead.

Instead of the air simply being sucked into the cylinders, it is forced in. Additional fuel is supplied by the injectors, in proportion to the increased amount of air. 2 Energy for the operation of the turbocharger comes from the exhaust gases being forced from the combustion chambers. The gas flows through a specially-shaped housing (the turbine housing) and in so doing, spins the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is attached to a shaft, at the end of which is another vaned wheel, Known as the compressor wheel. The compressor wheel spins in.its own housing, and compresses the inducted air on the way to the inlet manifold. 3 Between the turbocharger and the inlet manifold, the compressed air passes through an intercooler (see Section 14 for details). The purpose of the intercooler is to remove from

13 Turbocharger general information, removal and refitting

Whi

General information 1 The turbocharger increases engine efficiency by raising the pressure in the inlet manifold above atmospheric pressure.

13.6a

Fixed-vane turbocharger

1 Exhaust manifold heat shield 2 Exhaust manifold

3

Oil supply tube

4

Oil return tube

5 6

Turbocharger Wastegate control valve

12.12 Checking the position of the injectors using the Ford special tool

the inducted air some of the heat gained in being compressed. Because cooler air is denser, removal of this heat further increases engine efficiency. 4 Boost pressure (the pressure in the inlet manifold) is limited by a wastegate, which diverts the exhaust gas away from the turbine wheel in. response to a pressure-sensitive actuator. 5 The turbo shaft is pressure-lubricated by its own dedicated oil feed pipe. The shaft ‘floats’ on a cushion of oil. Oil is returned to the sump via a return pipe that connects to the sump. 6 The turbocharger on the DuraTorg engine is integral with the exhaust manifold, and is not available separately. There are two types of turbocharger fitted to the DuraTorg engine -a fixed-vane type is fitted to 90 PS engines, with a variable-vane type fitted to all others (see illustration). On the fixed-vane type, there

13.6b Variable-vane turbocharger 1 2

Exhaust manifold heat shield Exhaust manifold

3

Oil supply tube

4

Oil return tube

5 6

Turbocharger Wastegate

Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel models

14.6 Slacken the hose clip (arrowed) and disconnect the intercooler air inlet pipes (right-hand side) is a wastegate control valve, which opens a flap at high engine speeds. On the variablevane type, as the engine speed increases, the guide vanes in the turbine housing are progressively opened before the wastegate is activated, maintaining boost pressure over a wider operating range. 7 The turbocharger is part of the exhaust manifold assembly. Removal and refitting of the exhaust manifold/turbocharger is covered in Chapter 2C, Section 20.

Precautions e The turbocharger operates at extremely high speeds and temperatures. Certain precautions must be observed to avoid premature failure of the turbo or injury to the operator. e Do not race the engine immediately after start-up, especially if it is cold. Give the oil a few seconds to circulate. e Always allow the engine to return to idle speed before switching it off —- do not blip the

throttle and switch off, as this will leave the turbo spinning without lubrication. e Allow the engine to idle for several minutes

before switching off after a high-speed run. e Observe the recommended intervals for oil and filter changing, and use a reputable oil of the specified quality. Neglect of oil changing, or use of inferior oil, can cause carbon formation on the turbo shaft and subsequent failure. Warning: Do not operate the turbo with any parts exposed. Foreign objects falling onto the rotating vanes could cause excessive damage and (if ejected) personal injury.

14 Intercooler general information, removal and refitting

14.7a

Remove the retaining bolt (one each

side)...

converter is a short flexible section of pipe, connecting to the factory-fitted one-piece rear section, which contains the centre and rear silencers (see illustration overleaf). Later models may be fitted with a diesel particulate

at the front of the car,

filter (DPF) after the flexible section, and has a flanged joint at either end (see Chapter 4C for

in the airflow.

The

heated air entering the base of the unit rises upwards, and is cooled by the airflow over the intercooler fins, much as with the radiator. When it reaches the top of the intercooler, the

cooled air is then ducted rearwards into the inlet manifold.

Removal

.

4 Disconnect the battery negative lead, and position the lead away from the battery (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 5 Remove the front bumper as described in Chapter 11. 6 Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the intercooler air inlet pipes from each end of the intercooler (see illustration). 7 Remove the two bolts (one each side) securing the intercooler to the engine compartment front panel. Lift the intercooler away from front panel, and place it somewhere safe (remember that the intercooler fins are just as vulnerable to damage as those on the radiator) (see illustrations).

Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Check the inlet and outlet pipes for signs of damage, and make sure that the pipe clips are securely tightened.

general information

Mii

1 The intercooler is effectively an ‘air radiator’,

used to cool the pressurised inlet air before it enters the engine. 2 When the turbocharger compresses the inlet air, one side-effect is that the air is heated,

causing the air to expand. If the inlet air can be cooled, a greater effective volume of air will

be inducted, and the engine will produce more power.

... and remove the intercooler from the car

3 The compressed air from the turbocharger, which would normally be fed straight into the inlet manifold, is instead ducted forwards around the left side of the engine to the base of the intercooler. The intercooler is mounted

15 Exhaust system -—

General information

14.7b

4Be11

and component renewal

more details). 2 To renew either silencer, the original rear section must be cut through mid-way between the centre and rear silencers. Before making any cut, offer up the new exhaust section for comparison and, if necessary, adjust the cutting points as required. Bear in mind that there must be some ‘overlap’ allowance, as the original and new sections are sleeved together. 3 The system is suspended throughout its entire length by rubber mountings, with a rigid support bracket fitted below the catalytic converter.

4 To remove a part of the system, first jack up the front or rear of the car, and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Alternatively, position the car over an inspection pit, or on car ramps. 5 Ford recommend that all nuts (such as flange joint nuts, clamp joint nuts, or converter-to-manifold nuts) are renewed on reassembly — given that they may be in lessthan-perfect condition as a result of corrosion, this seems a good idea, especially as it will make subsequent removal easier. 6 At least on the car seen in our workshop, no gaskets appear to be used on the exhaust system mating surfaces. Make sure that the mating faces of the exhaust system joints are cleaned thoroughly before assembling.

Component renewal any section of the exhaust is damaged WHE7or Ifdeteriorated, excessive noise and vibration

Warning: Inspection and repair of exhaust system components should be done only after the system has cooled completely. This applies particularly to the catalytic converter, which runs at very high temperatures.

General information 1 The catalytic converter (see Chapter 4C) is mounted at an angle, directly below the exhaust manifold. Immediately below the

will occur. 8 Carry out regular inspections of the exhaust system, to check security and condition. Look for any damaged or bent parts, open seams, holes, loose connections, excessive corrosion, or other defects which could allow exhaust fumes to enter the car. Deteriorated sections of the exhaust system should be renewed. 9 If the exhaust system components are extremely corroded or rusted together, it may not be possible to separate them. In this case,

4Be12

Fuel and exhaust systems — diesel models

simply cut off the old components with a hacksaw, and remove any remaining corroded pipe with a cold chisel. Be sure to wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and wear gloves to protect your hands. 10 Here are some simple guidelines to follow when repairing the exhaust system: a) Work from the back to the front when removing exhaust system components. b) Apply penetrating fluid to the flange nuts before unscrewing them. c) Use new gaskets and rubber mountings when installing exhaust system

components. d) Apply anti-seize compound (copper brake grease will suffice) to the threads of all exhaust system studs during reassembly.

e) Note that on some models, the downpipe is secured to the manifold by two coil springs, spring seats and a self-locking nut on each. Where fitted, tighten the

nuts until they stop on the bolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs will then be sufficient to make a leak-proof

connection. Do not overtighten the nuts

to the catalytic converter and its heat shield. g) The heat shields are secured to the underside of the body by special nuts, or by bolts. They are fitted above the exhaust, to reduce radiated heat affecting the cabin or fuel tank. Each shield can be removed separately, but note that some overlap each other, making it necessary to loosen another section first. If a shield is being removed to gain access to a component located behind it, it may prove sufficient in some cases to remove the retaining nuts and/or bolts, and simply lower the shield, without disturbing the exhaust system. Otherwise, remove the exhaust section as described earlier.

to cure a leak — the studs will shear. Renew the gasket and the springs if a leak is found. f) Be sure to allow sufficient clearance between newly-installed parts and all points on the underbody, to avoid overheating the floorpan, and possibly damaging the interior carpet and insulation. Pay particularly close attention .

15.1 Exhaust system layout - models without particulate filter

1 Catalytic converter

2

Exhaust flexible pipe

3

Silencer and tailpipe assembly

4Ce1

Chapter 4 Part C: Emission control systems Co ntents

Section number

Catalytic converter — general information and precautions........ Catalytic converter — removal and refitting...............2..05Crankcase emission system (petrol models) - component renewal . Diesel particulate filter (DPF) components — removal and refitting . Evaporative emission contro! system (petro! models) — testing and COONS ISA SETIOW

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6 7 3 8

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Section number

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system — testing and component reneWal ss:s'sivceiass «2 Be cole ccomeoe rue ee eee General information and precautions................0.0eeeeue Oxygen sensor -— testing and renewal ..............0.0000e cues

4 1 iS}

2

Degrees of difficulty || Easy,

|novice

suitable for with little

|experience

| Fairly easy, suitable Fairly difficult, EN Difficult, suitable NS Very difficult, for beginner with ® ~ | suitable for Beles ELEN for experienced DIY “| suitable for expert A | some experience DIY mechanic | mechanic EN DIY or professional

Specifications Torque wrench settings

Nm

Catalytic converter mounting bolts (3.0 litre models)...............

23

17

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Emission contro! systems ee

a

1

General information and precautions

Petro! models 1 All petrol engines are designed to use unleaded petrol, and are controlled by the Visteon ‘Black Oak’ engine management system to give the best compromise between driveability, fuel consumption and exhaust emission production. In addition, a number of systems are fitted that help to minimise other harmful emissions. 2 A Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) control

system

is fitted,

which

reduces

the release of pollutants from the engine’s lubrication system, and a catalytic converter is fitted which reduces exhaust gas pollutants. 3 An exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is fitted, to further reduce emissions. Also an evaporative emission control system is fitted which reduces the release of gaseous hydrocarbons from the fuel tank.

Crankcase emissions control 4 On 4-cylinder models, the crankcase ventilation system main components are the oil separator mounted on the front (radiator) side of the cylinder block/crankcase behind the inlet manifold, and the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve set in a rubber grommet in the separator’s left-hand upper end. The associated pipework consists of a crankcase breather pipe and two flexible hoses connecting the PCV valve to a union on the left-hand

end of the inlet manifold,

- and a crankcase breather hose connecting the cylinder head cover to the air cleaner assembly. On V6 models, the system is similar, but the oil separator is located on top of the cylinder block between the cylinder heads, below the inlet manifold. A small foam filter in the air cleaner prevents dirt from being drawn directly into the engine. 5 The function of these components is to reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase, and to minimise the formation of oil sludge. By ensuring that a depression is created in the crankcase under most operating conditions, particularly at idle, and by positively inducing fresh air into the system, the oil vapours and ‘blow-by’ gases collected in the crankcase are drawn from the crankcase, through the oil separator, into the inlet tract, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 6 The system requires no attention other than to check at regular intervals that the hoses, valve and oil separator are free of blockages and in good condition.

Exhaust emissions control 7 To minimise the amount of pollutants which escape into the atmosphere, all models are fitted with a catalytic converter in the exhaust system. The system is of the closed-loop type, in which two oxygen sensors in the

exhaust system provide the fuel injection/ ignition system ECU with constant feedback, enabling the ECU to adjust the mixture to provide the best possible conditions for the converter to operate. One oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust manifold, with the second downstream of the catalytic converter, to monitor the converter’s efficiency. 8 The oxygen (lambda) sensor has a heating element built-in that is controlled by the ECU through the sensor relay to bring the sensor’s tip to an

efficient

operating

temperature

quickly. The sensor’s tip is sensitive to oxygen and sends the ECU a varying voltage depending on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases; if the inlet air/fuel mixture is too rich, the exhaust gases are low in oxygen, so the sensor sends a low voltage signal, the voltage rising as the mixture weakens and the amount of oxygen rises in the exhaust gases. 9 Peak conversion efficiency of all major pollutants occurs if the inlet air/fuel mixture is maintained at the chemically correct ratio for the complete combustion of petrol of 14.7 parts (by weight) of air to 1 part of fuel (the ‘stoichiometric’ ratio). The sensor output voltage alters in a large step at this point, the ECU using the signal change as a reference point and correcting the inlet air/fuel mixture accordingly by altering the fuel injector pulse width.

Evaporative emissions control 10 The evaporative emission control (EVAP) system fitted to petrol models consists of the purge valve, the activated charcoal filter canister and a series of connecting vacuum hoses. Little is possible by way of routine maintenance, except to check that the vacuum hoses are clear and undamaged. Careless servicing work may lead to the hoses becoming crushed — always take care to route these and other hoses correctly. This system is fitted to minimise the escape of unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere. 11 The fuel tank filler cap is sealed, and a charcoal canister is mounted to the rear of the fuel tank. The canister stores petrol vapours generated in the tank when the car is parked. When the engine is running, the vapours are cleared from the canister under the control of the PCM via the canister-purge solenoid valve. The vapours are drawn into the inlet manifold, to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 12 To ensure that the engine runs correctly when it is cold and/or idling, and to protect the catalytic converter from the effects of an overrich mixture, the canister-purge solenoid valve is not opened by the PCM until the engine is fully warmed-up and running under part-load. The solenoid valve is then switched on and off, to allow the stored vapour to pass into the inlet manifold. The purge valve is located on a bracket by the ignition coil, at the left-hand rear of the engine on 4-cylinder engines (left as seen from the driver’s seat), and on the rear cylinder head cover on V6 engines.

Exhaust gas recirculation 13 To reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx) . emissions, some of the exhaust gases are recirculated through the EGR valve to the inlet manifold. This has the effect of lowering combustion temperatures. The system consists of the EGR valve, the EGR exhaust gas pressure differential sensor, the EGR solenoid valve, the PCM, and various sensors. The PCM is programmed to produce the ideal EGR valve lift for all operating conditions. 14 On 4-cylinder models, the EGR valve is mounted on the transmission end of the cylinder head. On V6 models, an EGR vacuum regulator is located on the bulkhead.

Diesel models 15 All diesel engine models are designed to meet strict emission requirements, and are also equipped with a crankcase emissions control system. In addition to this, all models are fitted with an unregulated catalytic converter to reduce harmful exhaust emissions. To further reduce emissions, an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is also fitted. Crankcase emissions control 16 To reduce the emission of unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the atmosphere, the engine is sealed. Blow-by gases and oil vapour are drawn from inside the crankcase, through the cylinder head cover, then through a pressure-sensitive recirculation valve into the turbocharger. From the turbocharger, the gases enter the inlet manifold to be burned by the engine during normal combustion. 17 There are no restrictors in the system hoses, since the minimal depression in the inlet manifold remains constant during all engine operating conditions. Exhaust emissions control 18 To minimise which

escape

the amount into

the

of pollutants

atmosphere,

an

unregulated (reduction) catalytic converter is fitted in the exhaust system. The catalytic converter consists of a canister containing a fine mesh impregnated with a catalyst material, over which the exhaust gases pass. The catalyst speeds up the oxidation of harmful carbon monoxide, unburnt hydrocarbons and soot, effectively reducing the quantity of harmful products reaching the atmosphere. The catalytic converter operates remotely in the exhaust system, and there is no oxygen sensor as fitted to the petrol engines. 19 Certain models may additionally be equipped with a diesel particulate filter (DPF), which is fitted after the exhaust flexible section at the front, and has a flanged joint at either end. This filters out the soot particles which may be present in the exhaust. As itis a filter which may become blocked, a pressure differential sensor is fitted in the engine compartment to monitor the exhaust pressure drop across the filter, via pipework fitted to the filter housing. Also fitted to the filter is an

Emission control systems exhaust temperature sensor, which monitors the temperature of the exhaust gas leaving the catalytic converter. When the filter needs ‘regenerating’ (cleaning), this is achieved by the PCM adding excess fuel to raise the exhaust gas temperature and burn off the deposits — the exhaust may emit white smoke when this happens. This cleaning can also be done ‘manually’, using the Ford WDS2000 diagnostic tool. Models with a DPF have an oil change warning light in the instrument panel, which comes on after the DPF has been cleaned this way enough times, to warn of the risk of fuel in the engine oil.

Exhaust gas recirculation 20 To reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx) emissions, some of the exhaust gases are recirculated through the EGR valve to the inlet manifold. This has the effect of lowering combustion

temperatures.

The

system

consists of the EGR valve, the EGR exhaust gas pressure differential sensor, the EGR solenoid valve, the PCM, and various sensors. The PCM is programmed to produce the ideal EGR valve lift for all operating conditions. 21 On diesel engines, the EGR system is fitted with a cooler fitted across the rear of the engine below the exhaust manifold, supplied from the engine cooling system. The EGR valve is located on the transmission end of the cooler (except on models with the 5-speed automatic transmission — the EGR valve is then located on the front of the engine at the timing chain end).

2 Evaporative emission control system (petrol models) -

_testing and component renewal

WH

2.9a Disconnecting the wiring connector from the purge valve (4-cylinder petrol models)... is energised, and that nothing can pass when the solenoid is not energised. Alternatively, connect an ohmmeter to measure the resistance across the solenoid terminals — no reading, or an infinite resistance, suggests a problem. Renew the solenoid valve if it is faulty. 6 Further testing should be left to a dealer service department.

1 Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can be caused by an inoperative canister-purge solenoid valve, a damaged canister, split or cracked hoses, or hoses connected to the wrong fittings. Check the fuel filler cap for a damaged or deformed gasket. 2 Fuel loss or fuel odour can be caused by liquid fuel leaking from fuel lines, a cracked or damaged canister, an inoperative canisterpurge solenoid valve, and disconnected, incorrectly routed, kinked or damaged vapour or control hoses. 3 Inspect each hose attached to the canister for kinks, leaks and cracks along its entire length. Repair or renew as necessary. 4 Inspect the canister. If it is cracked or damaged, renew it. Look for fuel leaking from the bottom of the canister. If fuel is leaking, renew the canister, and check the hoses and hose routing. 5 If the canister-purge solenoid valve is thought to be faulty, unplug its electrical connector and disconnect its vacuum hoses. Connect a 12 volt battery directly across the valve terminals. Check that air can flow through the valve passages when the solenoid

... then unclip the valve from the bracket (V6 models)

12 Remove the exhaust system as described in Chapter 4A. 13

Where

fitted,

remove

the

headlight-

7 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). On 4-cylinder models, unclip the breather hose from the engine upper plastic cover, then unclip the cover from the top of the engine. 8 Disconnect the hose(s) from the solenoid valve, noting their positions for refitting.

levelling sensor as described in Chapter 12. 14 Ensure that the rear of the car’s body is supported securely on axle stands, then support the rear suspension crossmember with a jack. Remove the roadwheels and unscrew the rear suspension strut top mounting bolts (two per side). 15 Use white paint or similar (do not use a sharp-pointed scriber, which might break the underbody protective coating and cause rusting) to mark the exact relationship of the crossmember to the underbody. Unscrew the four mounting bolts. Lower the crossmember approximately 75 mm on the jack, and support it securely. Warning: Take care when lowering

9 Disconnect the valve’s electrical connector,

A

Purge solenoid valve renewal

then unclip the solenoid valve from the bracket (see illustrations). 10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Charcoal canister renewal

Testing

2.9b

4Ce3

Saloon and Hatchback models Note: Read through this procedure carefully before starting work, and ensure that the equipment is available that is required to carry it out safely and with minimum risk of damage, and to align the crossmember with sufficient accuracy on reassembly. 11 Loosen the rear wheel nuts. Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the car and support on axle stands (See Jacking and vehicle support).

2.19a

Unclip the water separator box

cover...

the crossmember not to place any strain on the brake hoses and suspension components.

16 Unscrew the two rearmost canister bracket retaining bolts. 17 Disconnect the two hoses from the canister assembly, noting which way round they are fitted. 18 Unscrew the canister assembly’s © front retaining bolt. Withdraw the canister assembly. 19 Unclip the water separator box cover, then release the canister by pushing it to one side and unclipping it from the canister bracket « (see illustrations). 20

On

reassembly,

refit the canister to its

bracket and refit the assembly to the car, tightening the retaining bolts securely, and

2.19b

...and pushing it to one side, unclip the canister from the bracket

¥

4Ce4

Emission control systems

2.28 Undo the retaining bolts (arrowed) to remove the canister assembly

ensuring that the two hoses are securely reconnected to their original unions. 21 Offer up the crossmember and refit the crossmember bolts, tightening them only lightly at this stage. The crossmember must now be aligned on the underbody. Ford specify the use of service tool 205-316 (15-097-A), which is a pair of tapered guides, with attachments to hold them in the crossmember as it is refitted. However, since the working diameter of these tools is 20.4 mm, and since the corresponding aligning holes in the crossmember and underbody are 21 mm and 22 mm in diameter, there is a significant in-built tolerance possible in the crossmember’s alignment, even if the correct tools are used. 22 If these tools are not available, align the

crossmember

by

eye,

centring

the

crossmember aligning holes on those of the underbody, and using the marks made on removal for assistance. Alternatively, use a

tapered drift such as a clutch-aligning tool, or a deep socket spanner of suitable size. Once the crossmember is aligned as precisely as possible, tighten its bolts to the specified torque (see Chapter 10 Specifications) without disturbing its position. Recheck the alignment once all the bolts are securely tightened. 23 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the reverse of removal. 24 Remember that, if the rear suspension crossmember has been disturbed, the wheel alignment and steering angles must be checked fully and carefully as soon as possible, with any necessary adjustments being made. This operation is best carried out by an experienced mechanic using proper checking equipment; the car should therefore be taken to a Ford dealer or similar for attention.

Estate models 25 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual).. 26 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 27 Disconnect the two hoses from the canister assembly, noting which way round they are fitted. 28 Unscrew the canister assembly retaining bolts and withdraw the assembly, unclipping it from the front mounting (see illustration). 29 Unclip the water separator box cover, then release the canister by pushing it to one side and unclipping it from the canister bracket (see illustration 2.19a and 2.19b).

30 On refitting, secure the canister to its bracket, and refit the assembly to the car. Tighten the retaining bolt securely, and ensure that the two hoses are securely reconnected to their original unions.

3 Crankcase emission system (petrol models) component renewal

2

V4

PCV valve 1 The valve is plugged into the oil separator which is bolted to the cylinder block. Remove the inlet manifold as described in Chapter 2A (4-cylinder engines) or 2B (V6 engines) for access. 2 Release the locking clips with a screwdriver and pull the Positive Crankcase

Ventilation

(PCV) valve upwards to remove it from the oil separator (see illustrations) it can now be flushed, or renewed, as required.

Oil separator 4-cylinder models 3 Remove the inlet manifold (see Chapter 2A). 4 Unboit the oil separator from the cylinder block/crankcase, and withdraw it. Remove and discard the gasket (see illustration). 5 Flush out or renew the oil separator, as required. 6 On reassembly, fit a new gasket, and tighten

the bolts securely (see illustration). 7 The remainder of the refitting procedure is the reverse of removal. V6 models

3.2a Using a screwdriver to release the clips...

3.4 Unbolt and withdraw the oil separator from the cylinder block

3.2b

... then pull the valve upwards to remove it from the oil separator

3.6 Make sure the peg (arrowed) on the new gasket is located correctly

8 Remove the inlet manifold (see Chapter 2B). 9 Either disconnect the hose leading to the separator, or pull out the PCV valve. 10 Unscrew the bolts and remove the separator from the top of the cylinder block (between the cylinder heads), recover the gasket (see illustration). 11 If not already done, remove the PCV valve from the separator. Wash out the oil separator using a suitable solvent (such as engine degreaser), and ensure that its passages are clear. 12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Use a new gasket, and tighten the retaining bolts securely.

3.10 Oil separator on V6 models

Emission control systems

4Ce#5

PCV hose(s) 13 The hoses are a push-fit onto the PCV valve and inlet manifold, and can only be renewed once the inlet manifold has been removed (see relevant part of Chapter 2). 14 Wash the oil separator and valve in suitable solvent (such as engine degreaser), and ensure that all passages are clear. Check the hoses for signs of damage, especially at the hose ends. Where an O-ring is used to seal the valve into its location, check the condition of the O-ring before refitting. 15 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Make sure that the hoses are securely and correctly refitted, and that the hoses are routed as before.

~4

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system - testing and component renewal

HH

Testing EGR vaive 1 Start the engine and allow it to idle. 2 Detach the vacuum hose from the EGR valve, and attach a hand vacuum pump in its place. 3 Apply vacuum to the EGR valve. Vacuum should remain steady, and the engine should run poorly or stall. a) If the vacuum doesn’t remain steady and the engine doesn’t run poorly, renew the EGR valve and recheck it. b) If the vacuum remains steady but the engine doesn’t run poorly, remove the EGR valve, and check the valve and the inlet manifold for blockage. Clean or renew parts as necessary, and recheck.

‘eleen

sa

Af

es

4.9 Disconnecting the wiring connector from the EGR valve

4.8 Remove the air inlet pipe from the throttle body

V6 models 12 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 13 Remove the mass airflow sensor and remove the idle air contro! valve as described in Chapter 4A, Section 13. 14 Detach the vacuum hose, unscrew the sleeve nut securing the EGR pipe to the valve, remove the two valve mounting bolts, and withdraw the valve from the inlet manifold (see illustration). Ensure that the end of the pipe is not damaged

or distorted as the valve is withdrawn, and note the valve’s gasket; this must be renewed whenever the valve is disturbed. 15 Note that the metal pipe from the valve to the manifold itself should not be disturbed -— it is not available separately from the manifold. However,

check

whenever

the manifold

is

removed that the pipe’s end fitting is securely fastened (see illustration).

16 Check the valve for sticking, or heavy carbon deposits. If such is found, clean the valve or renew it. 17 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Apply a smear of anti-seize compound to the sleeve nut threads, fit a new gasket, and tighten the valve bolts to the specified torque wrench setting.

Diesel models with manual transmission 18 Remove the EGR valve outlet tube as described in paragraphs 39 to 44. 19 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the EGR valve (see illustration). 20 Where applicable, disconnect the electrical connector from the EGR valve. 21 Undo the two retaining nuts and remove the EGR valve from the cooler (see illustration). Recover the gasket - a new one should be used when refitting. 22 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

EGR system 4 Any further checking of the system requires special tools and test equipment. Take the car to a dealer service department for checking.

EGR valve renewal 4-cylinder petrol models 5 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 6 Unclip the breather hose from the engine upper plastic cover, then unclip the cover from the top of the engine. 7 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 3. 8 Undo the retaining clips and remove the air inlet pipe from the throttle body to the air filter housing (see illustration). 9 Disconnect the electrical connector from the EGR valve (see illustration). 10 Detach the coolant hose from the EGR valve. 11 Remove the two valve mounting bolts, and withdraw the valve from the transmission

end of the cylinder head (see illustration).

4.11

Undo the two mounting bolts and withdraw the EGR valve

4.15 Check end fitting of EGR pipe into inlet manifold whenever manifold is removed, but do not disturb

4.14 Refitting the EGR valve together with a new gasket

4.19 Disconnect the vacuum pipe (arrowed) from the EGR valve

4C*6

Emission control systems

4.21 Undo the two retaining nuts (arrowed) and lift the EGR valve from the cooler

Diesel models with automatic transmission 23 Remove the engine upper cover, undo the two retaining nuts and detach the EGR valve

tube from the EGR valve, renew the gasket on refitting. 24 Slacken the securing clip and disconnect the charge air cooler hose from the EGR valve. 25 Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the EGR valve. 26 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove the EGR valve from the inlet manifold — renew the gasket on refitting. 27 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

EGR pipe renewal V6 models 28

Disconnect the idle air control valve tube

from the air cleaner and upper inlet manifold.

4.31

Removing the EGR tube on V6 models

29 Unscrew the EGR tube sleeve nut from the EGR valve and disconnect the tube. 30 Loosen the left-hand front wheel nuts.

Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the car and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front left-hand wheel and the wheel arch liner. 31 Remove the EGR tube nut from the rear exhaust manifold and remove the tube (see illustration). 32 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Apply anti-seize compound to the nuts on both ends of the tube.

Exhaust gas pressure differential sensor V6 models 33 This component measures the difference in pressure of the exhaust gases across a venturi (restriction) in the exhaust gas

4.37 Disconnecting the wiring plug from the exhaust gas pressure differential sensor recirculation (EGR) system’s pipe, and sends the PCM a voltage signal corresponding to the pressure difference. 34 Testing of this component is beyond the scope of the DIY mechanic, and should be left to a Ford dealer.

Component renewal

;

35 The differential pressure sensor is located next to the EGR solenoid, on the left-hand end of the rear cylinder head. 36 Note the positions of the vacuum hoses for refitting (they are of different diameter), then disconnect them from the ports on the

sensor. 37 Disconnect the sensor wiring plug, then unscrew the sensor mounting bolts and remove the sensor from its location (see illustration). 38 Refitting is a reversal of removal, making sure that the hoses are correctly refitted. Note: Check the condition of both hoses and renew them if necessary.

EGR valve outlet tube renewal Diesel models 39 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). Remove the engine upper cover. 40 Disconnect the wiring connector from the mass airflow sensor, slacken the air inlet hose retaining clips and remove

4.41 Undo the two retaining bolts (arrowed) to disconnect the outlet tube

4.42 Slacken the securing clips and remove the air inlet pipe

eee 4.43 Slacken the securing clip (arrowed) and disconnect the charge air cooler hose

4.44 Undo the retaining bolts (arrowed) and remove the outlet tube

the complete air

cleaner housing from the car (see Chapter 4B). 41 Undo the two retaining bolts and disconnect the outlet tube from the EGR valve (see illustration), renew the gasket on refitting. 42 Unclip the coolant hose, slacken the securing clips and remove the air inlet pipe from the outlet tube (see illustration). 43 Slacken the securing clip and disconnect the charge air cooler hose from the outlet tube (see illustration). 44 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the outlet tube from across the top of the transmission (see illustration). 45 Refitting is a reversal of removal, making sure that the hoses are correctly refitted. Note: Check the condition of the hoses and renew them if necessary.

Emission control systems

4Ce7

EGR tube/cooler renewal Diesel models 46 The EGR system on diesel models is fitted with a cooler (supplied from the cooling system), which reduces the temperature of the exhaust gas being recycled; the cooler is effectively a water jacket around the pipe connecting the exhaust manifold and the EGR valve. 47 Remove the EGR valve outlet tube (and EGR valve on manual transmission models) as described in paragraphs 39 to 44 and 18 to 22. 48 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 1B. 49 To gain better access, remove the catalytic converter as described in Section 6.

50 Slacken the securing clips and disconnect the coolant hose from the thermostat housing and EGR cooler. 51 Depending on model and transmission fitted, the EGR cooler tube routing will vary. Follow the tube and undo the retaining nuts and release any retaining clips to remove the tube. 52 Undo the retaining nut and bolts and remove the cooler (see illustrations), renew the gasket on refitting. 53 Refitting is a reversal of removal, making sure that the hoses are correctly refitted. Check the condition of the hoses and renew them if necessary. Top-up the cooling system as required.

i

4.52a

Undo the retaining nut and bolt (arrowed)...

This enables more efficient monitoring of the exhaust gas, allowing a faster response time. The overall efficiency of the converter itself can also be checked. The sensor after the catalytic converter is sometimes known as a

monitor sensor.

Renewal Note: The sensor is delicate, and will not work if it is dropped or knocked, or if any cleaning materials are used on it. 2 Where applicable, remove the bolts securing the heat shield fitted over the exhaust manifold, and lift away the heat shield for access to the sensor. 3 Trace the wiring from the sensor body back to its wiring plug, and disconnect it. On models with two sensors, the wiring plug for the rearmost sensor is usually clipped to

4.52b

ss

“

bs

A

...and the two bolts (arrowed), then remove the cooler

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Apply a little anti-seize compound to the sensor threads, taking care not to allow any on the sensor tip, and tighten the sensor to the specified torque. b) Reconnect the wiring, ensuring that it is routed clear of any hot exhaust components.

c) If required, proof that the sensor is working can be gained by having the exhaust emissions checked, and compare it with the figure that Ford recommends. Remember that a faulty sensor will have generated a fault code — if this code is still logged in the PCM electronic memory, then see your Ford dealer to read the fault code still in the memory.

Testing

the rear of the subframe under the car (see illustrations). Note how the wiring is routed, as it must not come into contact with hot exhaust components. 4 Raise and support the front of the car if required to remove the sensor from underneath. Unscrew the sensor from the

1 Testing the oxygen sensor is only possible by connecting special diagnostic equipment to the sensor wiring, and checking that the voltage varies from low to high values when the engine is running. Do not attempt to ‘test’ any part of the system with anything other than the correct test equipment. This is beyond the scope of the DIY mechanic, and should be left to a Ford dealer. Note: Most models are fitted with two sensors — one before and one after the catalytic converter.

exhaust system front downpipe on 4-cylinder models or from each exhaust manifold on V6 models (see illustration). Recover the gasket (where fitted). 5 It may be beneficial to clean the sensor before refitting it, especially if the sensor tip appears to be contaminated. However, great care must be exercised, as the tip will be damaged by any abrasives, and by certain solvents. Seek the advice of a Ford dealer before cleaning the sensor.

1 The catalytic converter reduces harmful exhaust emissions by chemically converting the more poisonous gases to ones which (in theory at least) are less harmful. The chemical reaction is Known as an ‘oxidising’ reaction, or one where oxygen is ‘added’. 2 Inside the converter is a honeycomb structure, made of ceramic material and

5.3a Disconnecting the oxygen sensor wiring block connector

5.3b The rear sensor wiring connector is clipped to the rear of the subframe

5.4 Removing the oxygen sensor from the exhaust manifold on V6 models

5

Oxygen sensor testing and renewal

Mili

6

Catalytic converter general information and precautions

WHHL

General information

coated

with the precious metals

palladium,

platinum and rhodium (the ‘catalyst’ which promotes the chemical reaction). The chemical

4Ce8

Emission control systems

reaction generates heat, which itself promotes the reaction — therefore, once the car has been driven several miles, the body of the converter will be very hot. 3 The ceramic structure contained within the converter is understandably fragile, and will not withstand rough treatment. Since the converter runs at a high temperature, driving through deep standing water (in flood conditions, for example) is to be avoided, since the thermal stresses imposed when plunging the hot converter into cold water may well cause the ceramic internals to fracture, resulting in a ‘blocked’ converter - a common cause of failure. A converter which has been damaged in this way can be checked by shaking it (do not strike it) — if a rattling noise is heard, this indicates probable failure.

Precautions 4 The catalytic converter is a reliable and simple device which needs no maintenance in itself, but there are some facts of which an owner should be aware if the converter is to function properly for its full service life.

Petrol models a) DO NOT use leaded petrol (or leadreplacement petrol, LRP) in a car equipped with a catalytic converter — the lead (or other additives) will coat the precious metals, reducing their converting efficiency and will eventually destroy the converter. b) Always keep the ignition and fuel systems well-maintained in accordance with the manufacturer’s schedule (see Chapter 1A). c) If the engine develops a misfire, do not drive the car at all (or at least as little as possible) until the fault is cured. d) DO NOT push or tow-start the car — this will soak the catalytic converter in unburned fuel, causing it to overheat when the engine does start. e) DO NOT switch off the ignition at high engine speeds — ie, do not ‘blip’ the

f)

g)

h)

i)

j)

throttle immediately before switching off the engine. DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives — these may contain substances harmful to the catalytic converter. DO NOT continue to use the car if the engine burns oil to the extent of leaving a visible trail of blue smoke. Remember that the catalytic converter operates at very high temperatures. DO NOT, therefore, park the car on dry undergrowth, over long grass or piles of dead leaves after a long run. As mentioned above, driving through deep water should be avoided if possible. The sudden cooling effect may fracture the ceramic honeycomb, damaging it beyond repair. Remember that the catalytic converter is FRAGILE - do not strike it with tools during servicing work, and take care handling it when removing it from the car for any reason.

k) In some cases, a sulphurous smell (like that of rotten eggs) may be noticed from the exhaust. This is common to many catalytic converter-equipped cars, and has more to do with the sulphur content of the brand of fuel being used than the converter itself. |) If a substantial loss of power is experienced, remember that this could be due to the converter being blocked. This can occur simply as a result of contamination after a high mileage, but may be due to the ceramic element having fractured and collapsed internally (see paragraph 3). A new converter is the only cure in this instance. m) The catalytic converter, used on a wellmaintained and well-driven car, should last at least 100 000 miles — if the converter is no longer effective, it must be renewed. Diesel models 5 The catalytic converter fitted to diesel models is simpler than that fitted to petrol models,

but it still needs to be treated with

respect to avoid problems: a) DO NOT use fuel or engine oil additives — these may contain substances harmful to the catalytic converter. b) DO NOT continue to use the car if the engine burns (engine) oil to the extent of leaving a visible trail of blue smoke. c) Remember that the catalytic converter operates at very high temperatures. DO NOT, therefore, park the car in dry undergrowth, over long grass or piles of dead leaves after a long run. da) As mentioned above, driving through deep water should be avoided if possible. The sudden cooling effect will fracture the ceramic honeycomb, damaging it beyond repair. e) Remember that the catalytic converter is FRAGILE —- do not strike it with tools during servicing work, and take care handling it when removing it from the car for any reason. f) If a substantial loss of power is experienced, remember that this could be due to the converter being blocked. This can occur simply as a result of contamination after a high mileage, but may be due to the ceramic element having fractured and collapsed internally (see paragraph 3). A new converter is the only cure in this instance. g) The catalytic converter, used on a wellmaintained and well-driven car, should last at least 100 000 miles — if the converter is

no longer effective, it must be renewed.

7

Catalytic converter removal and refitting

HK 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual).

Petrol models except 3.0 litre ST 2 Chock the rear wheels, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Disconnect the wiring connector(s) from the oxygen sensor(s), unclip the wiring loom from under the car, where required. 4 Undo the two retaining nuts and disconnect the flexible pipe from the catalytic converter, discard the gasket. To prevent possible damage to the flexible section of pipe behind the flange joint, Ford technicians cable-tie two strips of thick metal on either side, down the length of the flexible section. 5 Undo the two retaining nuts and disconnect the catalytic converter from the exhaust intermediate pipe, discard the gasket. 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Use new nuts, bolts and gaskets as necessary. Note: Exhaust sealant paste should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter (between the engine and the converter) — even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter,

pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating. b) Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque.

3.0 litre ST models Front converter 7 Remove the three bolts securing the ignition coil pack to the front of the engine, and move it to one side without disconnecting the HT leads. 8 Chock the rear wheels, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 9 Undo the two retaining nuts and disconnect the flexible pipe from the catalytic converter, discard the gasket. To prevent possible

damage to the flexible section of pipe behind the flange joint, Ford technicians cable-tie two strips of thick metal on either side, down the length of the flexible section. 10 Disconnect the wiring connector from the oxygen sensor, and unclip the wiring loom from under the car, where required. To avoid the possibility of damage to the sensor when removing the converter, it is recommended that the sensor be unscrewed and removed first. 11 Remove the single bolt securing the converter to its support bracket. 12 Support the converter, then unscrew the three flange nuts and remove it from under the car. Renew the flange nuts if they are in poor condition. 13 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points:

a) Use new nuts, bolts and gaskets as necessary. Note: Exhaust sealant paste should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter (between the engine and the

Emission control systems

4Ce9

converter) — even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating. b) Ford recommend that the three converter studs are unscrewed and renewed whenever the converter is disturbed. c) Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque.

Rear converter Note: Removing the rear converter on 3.0 litre ST models requires that the front subframe is removed, making this a particularly difficult job for the DIY mechanic. 14 Remove the upper section of the inlet manifold, as described in Chapter 2B. 15 Unscrew the two nuts securing the wiring harness to the rear camshaft cover, and lift it off. Disconnect the wiring plug for the rear oxygen sensor, just above the harness. 16 Unscrew and remove the oxygen sensor from the rear exhaust manifold. 17 Unscrew the three bolts securing the exhaust manifold heat shield. 18 Chock the rear wheels, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 19 Unscrew the three flange nuts securing the converter to the manifold — renew these nuts if they are in poor condition. 20 Remove the front subframe as described in Chapter 10. 21 Remove the alternator as described in Chapter 5A. 22 Disconnect the wiring plug, then unscrew and remove the downstream oxygen sensor from the converter. 23 Unscrew the nut and two bolts, and remove the converter heat shield, sliding it towards the transmission end of the engine, and then down. 24 Support the converter, then unscrew the two bolts securing the converter to its support bracket. Remove it from under the car, and recover the gasket — a new one must be used when refitting. 25 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Use new nuts, bolts and gaskets as necessary. Note: Exhaust sealant paste should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter (between the engine and the converter) — even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter, pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating. b) Ford recommend that the three converter studs are unscrewed and renewed whenever the converter is disturbed. c) Tighten all fasteners to the specified

7.27 Removing the heat shield from the top of the exhaust manifold

27 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the heat shield from the top of the exhaust manifold (see illustration). 28 Remove the four nuts securing the top of the catalytic converter to the exhaust manifold (see illustration). Renew these nuts if they are in poor condition. 29 Chock the rear wheels, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).

30 Undo the two retaining nuts and disconnect the flexible pipe from the bottom of the catalytic converter, discard the gasket. To prevent possible damage to the flexible section of pipe behind the flange joint, Ford technicians cable-tie two strips of thick metal

7.28 Remove the four nuts (arrowed) to remove the catalytic converter pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating. b) Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque.

8

Diesel particulate filter (DPF) components -

removal and refitting

Why

Diesel particulate filter

on either side, down the length of the flexible

1 Ensure that the ignition is switched off (take out the key). 2 Chock the rear wheels, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support).

section. 31 Support the converter, then remove the retaining bolts from the support bracket at the

3 Trace the wiring from the exhaust temperature sensor on the side of the DPF up to its in-line connector, and disconnect

base of the converter. Alternatively, remove the

it. Note how the wiring is routed, as it must

support bracket completely (see illustration). 32 With the converter supported, lower the converter downwards under the car, taking great care not to drop it or knock it, as the internals are fragile (see illustration). The converter is a bulky component, and it may be necessary to rotate it as it is withdrawn. 33 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Use new nuts, bolts and gaskets as necessary. Note: Exhaust sealant paste should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter (between the engine and the converter) — even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter,

not come

5 Undo the two retaining nuts and disconnect the flexible pipe from the front of the DPF. Discard the gasket — a new one must be used on reassembly. To prevent possible damage to the flexible section of pipe behind the flange joint, Ford technicians cable-tie two strips of

7.31 Support bracket (arrowed) fitted to the lower part of the catalytic converter

7.32 Lowering the converter downwards from the manifold

into contact

with

hot exhaust

components.

4 Trace the two pressure differential pipes at the front and rear of the DPF to their hose connections — release the hose clips and disconnect them. Note how the hoses are routed, as they must be kept clear of hot exhaust components. If the hose clips are in poor condition, obtain new ones, or use Jubilee clips, for reconnection.

torque.

Diesel models 26 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual).

4Ce10

Emission control systems

thick metal on either side, down the length of the flexible section. 6 Support the DPF, then remove the rear flange nuts and separate it from the rear system. Unhook the DPF from its mounting rubber, and remove it from under the car. 7 If the DPF is being removed due to blockage, consult a Ford dealer for advice on how it should best be unblocked without causing damage. 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Use new nuts and gaskets as necessary. Note: Exhaust sealant paste should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the DPF (in this case, on the DPF front flange joint) — pieces of it may break off and foul the filter. b) Apply high-temperature grease (such as copper brake grease) to the DPF flange studs. c) Tighten all fasteners to the specified torque.

d) Ensure the wiring and hoses are routed clear of the hot exhaust, and that the hoses are not kinked or crushed.

Differential pressure sensor 9 The differential pressure sensor is mounted

on the engine compartment bulkhead, on the right-hand side (right as seen from the driver’s seat). 10 Ensure that the ignition is switched off (take out the key). 11 Unclip the plastic cover and remove the three retaining nuts from the right-hand strut top mounting. Note: DO NOT jack up the front of the car, while these nuts are removed. 12 Undo the four retaining bolts from the right-hand strut top mounting brace and remove it from the car. 13 Disconnect the wiring plug from the sensor. 14 Note their fitted positions (mark the hoses if necessary) then release the hose clips, and disconnect the two hoses from the sensor. If the clips are in poor condition, obtain new ones, or use Jubilee clips, for reconnection. 15

Unscrew the two sensor mounting bolts,

and withdraw the sensor from its location.

16 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Tighten the strut mounting nuts to the specified torque.

hot exhaust components.

20 Taking care that the sensor wiring does not become twisted, unscrew and remove the sensor from the side of the DPF. 21 It may be beneficial to clean the sensor before refitting it, especially if the sensor tip appears to be contaminated. However, great care must be exercised, as the tip will be damaged by any abrasives, and by certain solvents. Seek the advice of a Ford dealer before cleaning the sensor. 22 Refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Apply a little anti-seize compound to the sensor threads, taking care not

to allow any on the sensor tip, and tighten the sensor to the specified torque.

Exhaust gas temperature sensor 17 Ensure that the ignition is switched (take out the key).

18 Chock the rear wheels, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 19 Trace the wiring from the sensor body at the front of the DPF, back to its wiring plug, and disconnect it. Note how the wiring is routed, as it must not come into contact with

off

b) Reconnect the wiring, ensuring that it is routed clear of any hot exhaust components.

5Ae1

Chapter 5 Part A: starting and charging systems Contents

Section number

Section number

Alternator — removal and refitting............ BEE i ReaA ot toes 6= Charging system: testing m4 eye enasven sscuneate erat ease ~Alternator brushes and voltage regulator - renewal.............. 7 General information, precautions and battery disconnection ...... Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal ......... See Chapter 1A or1B Starter motor - removal and refitting. ..................00000Battery — removal and refitting.............. Teg sic shun: 2 ‘Starter motor — testing and overhaul ....................020-. BaltenyistOSUmG inate ary ee- wena vera nea es sas ratPREP SENT I 3. Starting system — general information and precautions........... Battery check, maintenance and charging...... See ChaptenliAvonmlB) Staring: Sy Stern — teStinG a cpeuey tenereieneieane tesserae Charging system — general information and precautions.......... 4

1 10 11 8 e)

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

SS x ’_}

= & Fairly easy, suitable X | Fairly difficut, for beginner with x suitable for competent x some experience DIY mechanic

“

~

Difficult, suitable

Very difficult, $s Wilbon suitable for expert

for experienced DIY w mechanic

ae,

DIY or professional

NS ~

w a

Specifications General System type

12 volt, negative-earth

Lead-calcium

60 to 70 Ah (depending on model)

Motorcraft, pre-engaged

Torque wrench settings Alternator mounting nuts/bolts.............. Alternator mounting studs (diesel engines) .... Starter motor mounting bolts: A=-CylINGERCNGINCS et ..t.lte acieueys anes NGLCNGINGS cade erserteteicis ihetehsrsa ho ho cee

1

General information

and precautions

General information The engine electrical systems include all ignition, charging and starting components. Because of their engine-related functions, these components are discussed separately from body electrical devices such as the lights, the instruments, etc (which are included in Chapter 12).

Precautions Always observe the following precautions when working on the electrical system: a) Be extremely careful when servicing engine electrical components. They are easily damaged if checked, connected or handled improperly. b) Never leave the ignition switched on for

long periods of time when the engine is not running. c) Don’t disconnect the battery leads while the engine is running. d) Maintain correct polarity when connecting

a battery lead from another vehicle during

jump starting — see the Jump starting Section at the front of this manual. e) Always disconnect the negative lead first, and reconnect it last, or the battery

may be shorted by the tool being used to loosen the lead clamps. It’s also a good idea to review the safetyrelated information regarding the engine electrical systems shown in the Safety first! section at the front of this manual, before beginning any operation included in this Chapter.

Battery disconnection Refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual.

5Ae2

Starting and charging systems Refitting

Charging

7 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure. Note: After the battery has been disconnected, the engine management system requires approximately 5 miles of driving to relearn its optimum settings. During this period, the engine may not perform normally. Also refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual.

Note: The following is intended as a guide only. Always refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations (often printed on a label attached to the battery), and always disconnect both terminal leads before charging a battery.

3 hee

Battery testing

WHY

2.2 Always disconnect battery (-) negative lead first

2

Battery removal and refitting

Testing 1 The simplest way to test a battery is with a voltmeter (or multimeter set to voltage testing) - connect the voltmeter across the battery terminals, observing the correct polarity. The test is only accurate if the battery has not been subjected to any kind of charge for the

HUY Removal 1 Unclip the battery cover and withdraw it from the top of the battery. 2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual) (see illustration). 3 Undo the two retaining nuts and remove the battery hold-down clamp (see illustration). 4 Lift out the battery — be careful, as the battery is heavy. Use the carry handle, if the battery is so equipped. 5 |f required, the battery tray and its support bracket can also be removed. Release the two clips in the base of the tray, then lift it out — where necessary, unbolt the engine compartment fusebox from the side. Working from above, remove the two support bracket

bolts, and disconnect the two earth cables from

the

bracket.

Noting

how

it is fitted,

detach the wiring harness as necessary from the bracket. Finally, remove the three bolts securing the bracket to the inner wing, and remove the bracket completely. 6 If you are renewing the battery, make sure that you get one that’s identical, with the same dimensions, amperage rating, cold cranking rating, etc. Dispose of the old battery in a responsible fashion. Most local authorities have facilities for the collection and disposal of such items — batteries contain sulphuric acid and lead, and should not be simply thrown out with the household rubbish. a

Pee

a

#

2.3 Unscrew hold-down nuts (one of two arrowed)

Low-maintenance battery 8 It is advisable to remove the cell caps or covers if possible during charging, but note that the battery will be giving off potentiallyexplosive hydrogen gas while it is being charged. Small amounts of acidic electrolyte may also escape as the battery nears full charge. Removing the cell caps will allow you to check whether all six cells are receiving charge — after a while, the electrolyte should start to bubble. If any cell does not bubble, this may indicate that it has failed, and the battery is no longer fit for use. 9 Charge the battery at a rate of 3.5 to 4 amps, and continue to charge the battery at this rate until no further rise in specific gravity is noted over a four-hour period. 10 Alternatively, a trickle charger charging at the rate of 1.5 amps can safely be used overnight. 11 Specially rapid ‘boost’ charges which are claimed to restore the power of the battery in

previous six hours.

If this is not the case,

switch on the headlights for 30 seconds, then wait four to five minutes before testing the battery after switching off the headlights. All other electrical circuits must be switched off, so check that the doors and tailgate/boot lid are fully shut when making the test. 2 If the voltage reading is less than 12.0 volts, then the battery is less than healthy. Under 11.5 volts, and the battery needs charging. However, as little as 11.0 volts will still usually be enough to start the engine, though a battery in this condition could not be relied on. A reading of around

10.0 volts suggests

that one of the six battery cells has died - a common way for modern batteries to fail. 3 If the battery is to be charged, remove it from the car (Section 2) and charge it as described later in this Section.

Low-maintenance battery 4 If the car covers a small annual mileage, it is worthwhile checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte every three months to determine

the state of charge of the battery. Use a hydrometer to make the check, and compare the results with the tool maker’s instructions (typically, there will be a colour-coded scale on hydrometers sold for battery testing). 5 lf the battery condition is suspect, first check the specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell. A significant variation between any cells indicates loss of electrolyte, or deterioration of the internal plates. 6 If the cell variation is satisfactory but the battery is discharged, it should be charged as described later in this Section.

1 to 2 hours are not recommended, as they can cause serious damage to the battery plates through overheating. 12 While charging the battery, note that the temperature of the electrolyte should never exceed 38°C.

Maintenance-free battery 13 This battery type takes considerably longer to fully recharge than the standard type, the time taken being dependent on the extent of discharge, but it can take anything up to three days. 14 Aconstant-voltage type charger is required, to be set, when connected, to 13.9 to 14.9 volts with a charger current below 25 amps. Using this method, the battery should be usable within three hours, giving a voltage reading of 12.5 volts, but this is for a partially-discharged battery and, as mentioned, full charging can take considerably longer. 15 If the battery is to be charged from a fullydischarged state (condition reading less than 12.2 volts), have it recharged by your local automotive electrician, as the charge rate is higher and constant supervision during charging is necessary.

4

Charging system general information and precautions

Maintenance-free battery

General information

7 In cases where a ‘sealed for life’ maintenance-free battery is fitted, toppingup and testing of the electrolyte in each cell is not possible. The condition of the battery can therefore only be tested using a battery condition indicator or a voltmeter.

The charging system includes the alternator, an internal voltage regulator, a no-charge (or ‘ignition’) warning light, the battery, and the wiring between all the components. The charging system supplies electrical power for the ignition system, the lights, the radio,

Starting and charging systems etc. The alternator is driven by the auxiliary drivebelt at the right-hand end of the engine. The purpose of the voltage regulator is to limit the alternator’s voltage to a preset value. This prevents power surges, circuit overloads, etc, during peak voltage output. The charging system doesn’t ordinarily require periodic maintenance. However, the drivebelt, battery and wires and connections should be inspected at the intervals outlined in Chapter 1A or 1B. The instrument panel warning light should come on when the ignition key is turned to positions II or Ill, then should go off immediately the engine starts. If it remains on, or if it comes on while the engine is running, there is a malfunction in the charging ~system. If the light does not come on when the ignition key is turned, and the bulb is sound (see Chapter 12), there is a fault in the alternator.

Precautions Be very careful when making electrical circuit connections to a car equipped with an alternator, and note the following:

a) When reconnecting wires to the alternator

b)

c) d) e)

f)

g)

h)

5

from the battery, be sure to note the polarity. Before using arc-welding equipment to repair any part of the car, disconnect the wires from the alternator and the battery terminals. Never start the engine with a battery charger connected. Always disconnect both battery leads before using a battery charger. The alternator is driven by an engine drivebelt which could cause serious injury if your hand, hair or clothes become entangled in it with the engine running. Because the alternator is connected directly to the battery, it could arc or cause a fire if overloaded or shorted-out. Wrap a plastic bag over the alternator, and secure it with rubber bands, before steam-cleaning or pressure-washing the engine (do not forget to remove before restarting the engine). Never disconnect the alternator terminals while the engine is running.

Charging system testing

the alternator; they must be in good condition, and tight. d) Check the large main fuses in the engine compartment (see Chapter 12). If any is blown, determine the cause, repair the circuit and renew the fuse (the car won’t start and/or the accessories won’t work if the fuse is blown). e) Start the engine and check the alternator for abnormal noises — for example, a

shrieking or squealing sound may indicate a badly-worn bearing or bush. f) Make sure that the battery is fully-charged — one bad cell in a battery can cause overcharging by the alternator. g) Disconnect the battery leads (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the lead clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary (see Weekly checks). Reconnect the lead to the negative terminal. h) With the ignition and all accessories switched off, insert a test light between the battery negative post and the disconnected negative lead clamp: 1) If the test light does not come on, re-attach the clamp and proceed to the

next step. 4 2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the car. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked. 3) To find the short, disconnect the alternator wiring harness. If the light goes out, the alternator is at fault. If the light stays on, remove each fuse until it goes out — this will tell you which component is short-circuited. 2 Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be approximately 12 volts. 3 Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. Increase engine speed until the voltmeter reading remains steady; it should now be approximately 13.5 to 14.6 volts. 4 Switch on as many electrical accessories (eg, the headlights, heated rear window and heater blower) as possible, and check

that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14 volts. The voltage may drop and then come

back up; it may

5Ae3

slightly, even if the charging system is working properly. 5 If the voltage reading is greater than the specified charging voltage, renew the voltage regulator. 6 If the voltmeter reading is less than that specified, the fault may be due to worn brushes, weak brush springs, a faulty voltage regulator, a faulty diode, a severed phase winding, or worn or damaged slip-rings. The brushes and sliprings may be checked, but if the fault persists, the alternator should be renewed or taken to an auto-electrician for testing and repair.

6

Alternator removal and refitting

WEY Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual). 2 On 4-cylinder engines, remove the upper plastic cover from the engine, and undo the alternator upper retaining bolt (see illustrations). Remove the wiring harness support bracket. 3 Loosen the right-hand front wheel nuts. Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (See Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front wheel and wheel arch liner — also remove the steering gear gaiter splash shield, which is secured with a single bolt. Where applicable, remove the engine undershield. 4 On 3.0 litre V6 ST engines, carry out the following: a) Referring to Chapter 10 if necessary, detach the top of the front anti-roll bar drop link from the right-hand suspension strut (use a 5 mm Allen key to stop the balljoint turning as the nut is undone). b) With reference to Chapter 2B, remove the rear through-bolt from the engine rear roll restrictor — this will allow the engine to pivot forwards, creating more room at the rear. Securely wedge the engine forwards temporarily using a piece of wood, but make sure that no pipes or hoses are being strained. c) Remove the rear catalytic converter heat

oe SS

x

1 If a malfunction occurs in the charging circuit, don’t automatically assume that the alternator is causing the problem. First check the following items: a) Check the tension and condition of the auxiliary drivebelt — renew it if it is worn or deteriorated (see Chapter 1A or 1B). b) Ensure the alternator mounting bolts and nuts are tight. c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the electrical connections at

6.2a Removing the alternator upper retaining bolt (4-cylinder models) . . .

6.2b

... and unclip the wiring harness bracket

5Ae4

Starting and charging systems rebuilt unit is identical to the old alternator. Look at the terminals — they should be the same in number, size and location as the terminals on the old alternator. Finally, look at the identification markings — they will be stamped in the housing, or printed on a tag or plaque affixed to the housing. Make sure that these numbers are the same on both alternators and the pulleys are identical.

Refitting

6.6 Removing the cooling duct from the rear of the alternator (4-cylinder models)

6.7 Disconnect the wiring terminals from the alternator

13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure, referring where necessary to the relevant Chapters of this manual. Tighten all nuts and bolts to the specified torque wrench settings.

7

Alternator brushes

and voltage regulator — renewal

ER

EE!

6.10 Withdrawing the alternator through the right-hand front wheel arch

7.2 Remove three screws and withdraw end cover (Bosch alternator)...

shield nut and two bolts. Slide the heat shield towards the transmission end of the engine, then down. 5 Remove the (main) auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1A or 1B. 6 On 4-cylinder engines, release the retaining clips and remove the cooling duct from the rear of the alternator (see illustration). 7 Unplug the wiring connector from the rear of the alternator, then undo the nut to disconnect the wiring terminal from the alternator (see illustration). 8 To create more room for the alternator to be withdrawn, disconnect the outer end of the track rod end, as described in Chapter 10.

9 On V6 engines, undo the alternator upper

‘i

i

retaining bolt and unclip the wiring harness support bracket. 10 Remove the two lower mounting bolts and remove the alternator out through the righthand wheel arch (see illustration). Note: On diesel engines the alternator is fastened by studs and nuts, the studs will need to be removed from the cylinder block to allow the alternator to be removed. 11 If required, undo the four retaining nuts and remove the plastic cover from the rear of the alternator. 12 If you are renewing the alternator, take the old one with you. Make sure that the new or

Wily

Note: This procedure assumes that. parts of the correct type have been obtained. At the time of writing, no individual alternator components were available as separate replacement Ford parts. An auto-electrical specialist should be able to supply parts such as brushes. 1 Remove the alternator from the car (see Section 6) and place it on a clean workbench.

Removal 2 Undo

the

withdraw the illustration).

retaining alternator

screws/nuts, end

and (see

3 Remove the two voltage regulator/ brushholder mounting screws and, where applicable, ease the wire from the connector. 4 Remove the regulator/brushholder from the end frame (see illustrations). 5 Measure the exposed length of each brush, and check with an auto-electrical specialist whether they are excessively worn. 6 Make sure that each brush moves smoothly in the brushholder.

Ais

7.4a ... then remove reguiator/brushholder assembly (secured by two screws)

cover

7.4b Regulator/brushholder retaining screws (Motorcraft alternator)

Starting and charging systems

5Ae5

7 Check that the slip-rings —- the rings of copper on which each brush bears — are clean (see illustration). Wipe them with a solventmoistened

cloth; if either appears

scored

or blackened, take the alternator to a repair

specialist for advice.

Refitting 8 Fit the voltage regulator/brushholder (see illustration). Ensure the brushes bear correctly on the slip-rings, and that they compress into their holders. Tighten the screws securely and where applicable, refit the wire to its connector

9 Install the rear cover, and tighten screws/nuts securely. 10 Refit the alternator (see Section 6).

7.7 Check that the slip-rings are clean

7.8 Insert a rod through the special hole to retain the brushes in their retracted position

battery, and could arc or cause a fire if mishandled, overloaded or shorted-out. c) Always detach the lead from the negative terminal of the battery before working on the starting system (see Section 1).

8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally-slow speed, first make sure that the battery is charged, and that all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partiallyseized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it will crank slowly. 9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached, then switch off and disable the ignition system by unplugging the ignition coil’s electrical connector; remove the fuel pump fuse — see wiring diagrams in Chapter 12. 10 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the battery positive terminal, and connect the negative lead to the negative terminal. 11 Crank the engine, and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 15 seconds at a time. A reading of 10.5 volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 10.5 volts or more

the

8 Starting system general information and precautions

9

Starting system testing

eS

LN

General information The sole function of the starting system is to turn over the engine quickly enough to allow it to start.

The starting system consists of the battery, the starter motor, the starter solenoid, and the wires connecting them. The solenoid is mounted directly on the starter motor. The solenoid/starter motor assembly is installed on the rear upper part of the transmission on V6 engines except the 3.0 litre ST, and on the front of the cylinder block, next

to the transmission bellhousing, on 4-cylinder and 3.0 litre V6 ST engines. When the ignition key is turned to position Ill, the starter solenoid is actuated through the starter control circuit. The starter solenoid then connects the battery to the starter. The battery supplies the electrical energy to the starter motor, which does the actual work of cranking the engine. The starter motor on a car equipped with automatic transmission can be operated only when the selector lever is in Park or Neutral (P or N). If the alarm system is armed or activated, the starter motor cannot be operated. The same applies with the engine immobiliser system (where fitted).

Precautions Always observe the following precautions when working on the starting system: a) Excessive cranking of the starter motor can overheat it, and cause serious damage. Never operate the starter motor for more than 15 seconds at a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two minutes. Excessive starter operation will also risk unburned fuel collecting in the catalytic converter’s element, causing it to overheat when the engine does start. b) The starter is connected directly to the

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, make sure that the battery is fully-charged, and ensure that the alarm/engine immobiliser system is not activated. 1 If the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is operated, make sure that, on

automatic transmission models, the selector lever is in Park or Neutral (P or N). 2 Make sure that the battery is fully-charged, and that all leads, both at the battery and starter

solenoid

terminals,

are

clean

and

secure. 3 If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch or (when applicable) the reduction gears in the starter motor may be slipping, in which case the starter motor must be overhauled or renewed. (Other possibilities are that the starter motor mounting bolts are very loose, or that teeth are missing from the flywheel/driveplate ring gear.) 4 lf, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, then the problem lies with either the battery, the main solenoid contacts, or the starter motor itself (or the engine is seized). 5 If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard to click whén the switch is actuated, the battery is faulty, there is a fault in the circuit, or the solenoid itself is defective. 6 To check the solenoid, connect a fused jumper lead between the battery (+) and the ignition switch terminal (the small terminal) on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is OK, and the problem is in the ignition switch, selector lever position sensor (automatic transmission) or in the wiring. 7 If the starter motor still does not operate, remove it. The brushes and commutator may be checked, but if the fault persists, the motor should be renewed, or taken to an autoelectrician for testing and repair.

but the cranking speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are burned, the motor is faulty, or

there is a bad connection. If the reading is less than 10.5 volts and the cranking speed is slow, the starter motor is faulty or there is a problem with the battery.

10 Starter motor removal and refitting

oo NS

x

1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Disconnecting the battery at the end of this manual).

4-cylinder and 3.0 litre ST models Removal 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 3 Where applicable, remove the engine undershield. 4 Remove the splash shield from across the front of the car under the radiator. 5 On diesel models,

disconnect

the T-MAP

sensor wiring plug from the intercooler inlet pipe which runs across the front subframe. Undo the retaining bolts and hose clips, and remove the inlet pipe.

5A°6

Starting and charging systems 12 Remove the battery as described in Section 2. Remove the battery tray, which is released using the two clips in the base. Remove the bolt from the air intake pipe, and move the pipe to one side.

ead

; 10.6 Remove the wiring harness bracket from the starter motor retaining studs/bolts

13 Disconnect the wiring from the starter motor. Also remove the two‘nuts and bolt securing the support bracket to the starter motor and transmission housing. Remove the bracket (see illustration). 14 On manual transmission models, disconnect the wiring from the reversing light

John Haynes O.B.E., Founder and Chairman of the museum at the wheel ofaHaynes Light 12.

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