Haynes Ford Granada 1985-1988 Owners Workshop Manual 1850104409, 9781850104407

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FORD GRANADA March 1985 to 1988 5 1796 cc 1993 cCo 2394 cCo 2792 cco 2933 cc

Ford Granada

Owners Workshop Mianual Matthew

Minter

Models covered All Ford Granada models, including Scorpio 1.8, 2.0, 2.4, 2.8 and 2.9 litre petrol engines Does not cover 4x4 or Diesel engine models

(1245-12N1)

Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes Publications, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

i

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to the Champion Sparking Plug Company Limited who supplied the illustrations showing the spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Ford Motor Company Limited and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

© Haynes Publishing Group 1987, 1988 A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop

Manual Series

Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85010 440 9 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Minter, Matthew, 7952Ford Granada ‘85 to ‘88 owners workshop manual. 1. Cars. Maintenance & repair — Amateurs’ manuals |. Title Il. Series 629.28'722 ISBN 1-85010-440-9

Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Introductory pages

About this manual Introduction to the Ford Granada General dimensions, weights and capacities Jacking, towing and wheel changing Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers General repair procedures Tools and working facilities Safety first! Routine maintenance Recommended lubricants and fluids Conversion factors Fault diagnosis Chapter 1 Engine

5 5 6 7 9 11 12 14 15 20 21 22

26

Chapter 2

Cooling system

82

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems

93

Chapter 4 Ignition and engine management systems

126

Chapter 5 Clutch

142

Chapter 6 Manual gearbox and automatic transmission

148

Chapter 7 Propeller shaft

172

Chapter 8 Final drive and driveshafts

175

Chapter 9 Braking system

181

Chapter 10 Steering and suspension

204

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings

230

Chapter 12 Electrical system

260

Chapter 13 Supplement Revisions and information on later models Sa oe i ee ln ee Index

362 ee eee

383

CR NZ,

Ford Granada

Ford Granada

GL

Ghia

About this manual /ts aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

Its arrangement

The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters, each covering a logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

Introduction

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

to the Ford Granada

e ee ee oe e The latest vehicles to carry the name Granada bear little visual mechanical although some resemblance to their predecessors, components have been carried over. Only one body style — a 5-door 2.0 litre ‘notchback’ — is available. Petrol engines offered are 1.8 and are well-tried all V6; pushrod litre 2.9 and 2.8 2.4, and ohc 4-cylinder systems. The units which benefit from the latest engine management engines have 1.8 litre engine has a twin choke carburettor, the V6 and fuel-injection and the 2.0 litre is available in both carburettor

fuel-injection forms. sion is A 5-speed manual gearbox or a 4-speed automatic transmis ial unit and fitted. Drive is to the rear wheels via a conventional different slip differential is open tubular driveshafts. A viscous-coupled limited drive version, eel four-wh a also is There available as an optional extra.

but this is not covered in this manual.

k braking Disc brakes are fitted all round, with Ford’s new anti-loc

eee

system (ABS) standard on all models. ABS ensures that maximum braking effect is available under all road conditions, even in the hands of unskilled drivers. Suspension is fully independent. Interior fittings and trim are of the high standard expected in vehicles of this class. Trim levels range from the relatively basic L, through GL and Ghia to the lavishly equipped Scorpio. Refinements such as electrically-operated windows, control door locking and air conditioning are standard on the Scorpio. Mechanically the vehicles are very easy to work on in most areas, and thought has obviously been given to the quick replacement of commonly required items such as the exhaust system. Routine maintenance requirements are minimal, a full service being necessary only every 12.000 miles or annually, with an oil change and abrief check at half this interval.

General dimensions, weights and capacities For information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Dimensions Overallilerigunipeeca:. a erecaterstes cy. cee re eaaaeis sa tee eee es Width: LAGIUCU IA GRIMISONS verre otek ee eek ee «eee Gatto ate aces EX CHUCHIICMUMIE KO Se nercceears estes trrtetsctscriierd-tr.sncrterdseateret careateeottaesetae OWerallB ei Iiinees emmy roa eti ans cae temas cay jo sitecse ee Ree WNIDS CAS Crecere eter race tat c cericcoceawes (tuner stilctasusssckasovasncivetesseacss ee Track:

4.669 m (15 ft 3.8 in)

1.963 1.766 1.426 2.761

m m to m

(6 ft 5.3 (5 ft 9.5 1.450 m (9 ft 0.7

in) in) (4 ft 8.1 in to 4 ft 9.1 in) in)

1.477 m (4 ft 10.2 in) 1.492 m (4 ft 10.7 in)

Weights Kerb weight (nominal):

A SMUT CGseamen a eenrt racks ccc eyat ts AO MTRE cy chl sashes aatereh test

et tees eeeskivines

POMitretUCliMIOCHON meets okeee crim. cweeecs sane 2.8 litre: ERA TICUROMVed res one ox Siew ccacs ete icy arene SE tees oe ee SCOMDO meee arr ccttiesa isatesaypnemse tea ae es MB ae EN ct ee TOSSEVORICIOMVEIGN ty.ccm cinch ceca ce oen are er cee ee es ROGiraGksmaxiMuUmn |OAd cet tectsccs cst] hc oR ee oes ne tee eee Maximum trailer weight”: ApSallthe were tee nens ele ics, ...\ csssscteaiaenerioretste ettertie: tenST ZOMiifercalbUrenOnrautomatlG ai ete a cere siee PROMI eHUCLIMCClOMet cus ae ae 2.8 litre, manual and limited slip differential ...........cccccccccscssecsesesesesees Z-SWie miaMUalte a ike Mean uc ene een, teehee oe ie eee ot a

1225 kg (2701 Ib) 1255 kg (2767 Ib) 1265 kg (2789 Ib) 1340 kg (2955 Ib) 1390 kg (3065 Ib) Refer to VIN plate

75 kg (165 lb)

1475 kg (3252 1525 kg (3363 1750 kg (3859 1750 kg (3859 1625 kg (3583 1750 kg (3859 1825 kg (4024 75 kg (165 Ib)

Ib) Ib) Ib) Ib) Ib) Ib) Ib) max

"Subject to current legislation. Weight given allow re-starting ona gradient of 12% at sea level; vehicle laden with two occupants only

Capacities (approx) Engine oil (drain and refill, including filter): ohc

Mamita ladSanOxe il cea ot crtcuaptl-s hsste oss. Automatic transmission fluid (from dry) Final drive oil:

3.75 litres (6.6 pints) 4.25 litres (7.5 pints) 8.0 litres (14.1 8.5 litres (15.0 70 litres (15.4 1.25 litres (2.2 8.5 litres (15.0

aeORE

pints) pints) gallons) pints) pints)

0.9 litres (1.6 pints) 1.3 litres (2.3 pints) ONCis tes aiacca

cen

resBt cs hs Phase

scns Fale, cs eo ee

es seek

0.65 litres (1.1 pints) 0.75 litres (1.3 pints)

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Jacking

previously described, axle stands.

Use the jack supplied with the vehicle only for wheel changing during roadside emergencies (photos). Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed. When raising the vehicle for repair or maintenance, preferably use a trolley or hydraulic jack with a wooden block as an insulator to prevent damage to the underbody. Place the jack under a structural member at the points indicated, never raise the vehicle by jacking up under the engine sump or transmission casing. If both front or both rear wheels are to be raised, jack up one side first and securely support it on an axle

Towing

stand before raising the other side. To avoid repetition, the procedures for raising the vehicle in order to carry out work under it is not included before each relevant operation described in this manual. It is to be preferred and is certainly recommended that the vehicle is positioned equipment

over an inspection pit or raised on is not available, use ramps or jack

Location of vehicle jack and wheelbrace. Slacken screw (arrowed) to release jack

a lift. When such up the vehicle as

A

Vehicle jack

B

Towing eyes are provided at both front and rear of the vehicle (photos). The rear towing eye should be used only for emergency towing of another vehicle; for trailer towing a properly fitted towing bracket is required. Vehicles with automatic transmission must not be towed further than 30 miles (50 km) or faster than 30 mph (50 km/h). If these conditions cannot be met, or if transmission damage has already occurred, the propeller shaft must be removed or the vehicle towed with its rear wheels off the ground. When being towed, insert the ignition key and turn it to position 11. This will unlock the steering, allow the lights and direction indicators to be used and activate the braking system.

Vehicle jack head engaged

Underbody jacking points Trolley jack or axle stands

but always supplement the lifting device with

in jacking

Vehicle jack in use

point

Swivel vehicle jack as shown for each position. Arrow points to front of vehicle

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

8

Front towing eye

Whee! changing Park on a firm flat surface if possible. Apply the handbrake and engage reverse gear or ‘P’. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed. Remove the wheel trim, when applicable, for access to the wheel nuts. Prise the trim off if necessary using the plastic-tipped end of the wheelbrace. Use the other end of the wheelbrace to slacken each wheel nut by half a turn. If the car is fairly new, the wheels and tyres will have been balanced on the vehicle during production. To maintain this relationship, mark the position of the wheel relative to the hub. (This is not necessary if the tyre is to be removed for repair or renewal, since the balance will inevitably be altered.)

Rear towing eye

Jack up the vehicle until the wheel is clear of the ground. Remove the wheel nuts and lift the wheel off the studs. Transfer the wheel centre cap on alloy wheels, then fit the new wheel onto the studs and secure it with the nuts. Tighten the nuts until they are snug, but do not tighten them fully yet. Lower the vehicle and remove the jack. Carry out the final tightening of the wheel nuts in criss-cross sequence. The use of a torque wrench is strongly recommended, especially when light alloy wheels are fitted. See Chapter 10 Specifications for the recommended tightening torque.

Refit the wheel trim, when applicable, and stow the tools. if a new wheel has been brought into service, have it balanced on the vehicle if

necessary.

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: Ford garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare parts sources is as follows:

Officially appointed Ford garages — This is the best source for parts which are peculiar to your car and are not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, intérnal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty — non-Ford components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the-storeman your car's vehicle identification number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ part along for positive identification. Remember that some parts are available on a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean! It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you.

Other garages and accessory shops — These are oftenvery good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all of the more important

components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers When ordering spare parts, always give as much information as possible. Quote the car model, year of manufacture, body and engine numbers as appropriate. The vehicle identification number (VIN) plate is mounted on the right-hand side of the body front panel, and may be seen once the bonnet is open (photo). Besides the VIN it also carries information on vehicle equipment and permissible loads. The VIN is also stamped into the floor panel to the right of the driver’sseat; an inspection cover is provided (photo). The engine number is stamped on the cylinder block. On ohc engines it is on the right-hand side, near the alternator (photo); on V6 engines it is on the left-hand side, above the fuel pump blanking plate. Other identification numbers or codes are stamped on major items such as the gearbox, final drive housing, distributor etc. These numbers are unlikely to be needed by the home mechanic.

FORD WERKE AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT ¥

poscsnacinaipwcc actintei rtpsett

Typical VIN plate

VIN is repeated next to driver's seat

10

V6 engine identification Date code Bb Engine code

C

Engine number Engine number

(ohc)

General repair procedures Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul car or its components, it is "necessary procedures and instructions. This will Operation efficiently and to a professional

work is carried out on the to observe the following assist in carrying out the standard of workmanship.

Preparation Read through the relevant Section(s) of the manual before starting work, to make sure that the necessary tools and spare parts are to hand. If it is not possible to tell in advance what spare parts will be required, check the availability and cost of the appropriate parts so that time is not wasted dismantling an item for which no spares are available, or which would be cheaper to exchange than.to repair.

Screw threads and fastenings Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align a split pin hole unless stated in the repair procedure. When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then retighten

to the specified setting.

Joint mating faces and gaskets Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two components, ensure that it is renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of jointing compound if this is being used unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

Oil seals Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed. The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the component cannot be restored, the component should be renewed. Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease. Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sealed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing in the course of tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing. Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are used to lock a critical component such as a big-end bearing retaining nut or bolt. Locktabs which are folded over to retain a nut or bolt should always be renewed. Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt or stud thread. Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole.

Special tools Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as.a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily available alternatives to the manufacturer's special tools are described, and are shown in use. In some instances, where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer's tool and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly skilled and have a thorough understanding of the procedure described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved.

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Too/s available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair Operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination spanners - 8 to 19mm Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Gearbox and final drive filler/level plug keys Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment too/ Set of fee/er gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in long x '/4 in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x '/4 in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (smal/) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the

Maintenance and minor repair \ist. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the 4 in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you

cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Spec/a/ list. Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list” Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Set of 12-spline keys (to fit Ford splined head bolts) Set of ‘Torx’ keys ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver - 6 in long x /16 in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x 5/16 in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 11/2 in long x 1/4 in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x 1/8 in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 1/2 inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool Stee/ rule/straight-edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type) Light with extension lead

“Some Imperial size nuts and bolts may be found on air conditioning and automatic transmission components

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make ajoint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist.

Tools and working facilities The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care

when

tools are used.. Hammer

heads

inevitably

become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always

be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

13 IES

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

0.250 0.276 0.313 0.315 0.344 0.354 0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438 0.445 0.472 0.500 0.512 0.525 0.551 0.563 0.591 0.600 0.625 0.630 0.669 0.686 0.709 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.938 0.945 1 .000 1 .010 1 .024 1 .063 1 .100 1 “25 1 181 1 .200 1 .250 1 .260 1 .300 1 ros 1 OOO 1 417 1 438 1 480 1 .500 1 1575 1 614 1 .625 1 .670 1 688 1 811 1 813 1 .860 1 875 1 .969 2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

Spanner size

1/4 in AF 7mm

5/16 in AF 8 mm

11/32 in AF; 1/8 in Whitworth 9mm

3/g in AF 10 mm 11 mm 7/16 in AF 3/16 in Whitworth; 12 mm 1/2 in AF 13 mm

1/4 in BSF

1/4 in Whitworth; 5/16 in BSF 14 mm

9/16 in AF 15 mm

5/16 in Whitworth; 3/8 in BSF 5/8 in AF 16 mm 17 mm

11/46 in AF 18 mm

3/8 in Whitworth; 7/16 in BSF 19 mm

3/4 in AF 13/46 in AF 7/16 in Whitworth; 1/2 in BSF 22 mm 7/83 in AF

1/2 in Whitworth; 9/16 in BSF 15/46 in AF 24 mm Tinv AF

9/16 in Whitworth; 5/8 in BSF 26 mm

11/16 in AF; 27 mm 5/8 in Whitworth; 11/16 in BSF 11/8 in AF 30 mm

11/16 in Whitworth; 3/4 in BSF 11/4 in AF 32 mm

3/4 in Whitworth; 7/3 in BSF 15/16 in AF

13/16 in Whitworth; 15/16 in BSF 36 mm 17/16 in AF 7/3 in Whitworth;

1 in BSF

11/2 in AF 40 mm; 15/16 in Whitworth 41 mm 15/8 in AF 1 in Whitworth;

11/8 in BSF

111/46 in AF 46 mm 113/16 in AF

11/8 in Whitworth;

11/4 in BSF

17/8 in AF 50 mm 2 in AF

11/4 in Whitworth; 13/3 in BSF 55 mm 60 mm

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain elementary precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following points do not pretend to be a comprehensive list of all dangers; they are intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts ’ DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

way. DON’T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON’T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON’T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning

you. DON’T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. DON’T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos below). DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. DON'T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON'T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs — it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the

way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards.

DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice.

Fire

Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined : space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Note: Any reference to a ‘torch’ appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held battery-operated electric lamp or flashlight. It does NOT mean a welding/gas torch or blowlamp.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be:giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive.

Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative

(—) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing (ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity and electrical equipment

IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet the relevant national safety standards.

Asbestos

/gnition HT voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain partsst the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Routine

maintenance

The maintenance schedules below are basically those recommended by the manufacturer. Servicing intervals are determined by

mileage or time elapsed — this is because fluids and systems deteriorate

with age as well as with use. Follow the time intervals if the appropriate mileage is not covered within the specified period.

Vehicles operating under adverse conditions may need more frequent maintenance. ‘Adverse conditions’ include climatic extremes

full-time towing or taxi work, proportion of short journeys.

driving on unmade

roads,

and a hi h

;

:

Under-bonnet view of a 2.0 litre Granada with fuel-injection

Battery

9

Vane airflow meter

Engine oil dipstick

10 Headlight covers

Inlet manifold

17

Throttle/kickdown cable bracket

12 Idle speed control valve 73 Oil filler cap

Suspension turrets

14 Spark plug leads

Ignition coil Air cleaner cover Fuel pressure regulator ANAA AWN»

Tune-up label

75 VIN plate 16 Radiator hoses 77 Horn

18 Windscreen washer pump 79 Windscreen washer reservoir 20 Alternator

Brake fluid reservoir cap Brake hydraulic unit accumulator

21 Coolant expansion tank cap 22 Engine mounting

Brake hydraulic unit valve block

23 Heater hose

Main fuse/relay box

24 Automatic transmission fluid dipstick

Wiper motor (behind cover) Heater blower cover

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Routine See

en

maintenance

ee

Check engine oil level (Chapter 1, Section 2) Check brake fluid level (Chapter 9, Section 2)

Check coolant level (Chapter 2, Section 2) Top up screen washer reservoir(s) Check tyre pressure and inspect tyres (Chapter 10, Section 40) Check operation of lights, direction indicators, horn etc.

Every 6000 miles (10 000 km) or six months, whichever comes first

ea eres

19

a

ar et A Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly, or before a long journey a eC

eerie.

Renew engine oil and filter (Chapter 1, Sections 2 and 21) Check brake pads for wear (front and rear) (Chapter 9, Section 8 and 9) Inspect tyres thoroughly (Chapter 10, Section 40) Check tightness of wheel nuts Check idle speed (1.8 litre only) (Chapter 3, Section 16) Check idle mixture (not fuel-injection models) — at just 6000 miles only (Chapter 3, Section 16 or 21) Clean oil filler cap Inspect engine bay and underside of vehicle for fluid leaks or other signs of damage Check function and condition of seat belts Check operation of brake fluid level warning indicator Check condition and security of exhaust system (Chapter 3, Section 34)

Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

enn

Check manual gearbox oil level (Chapter 6, Section 2) Check final drive oil level (Chapter 8, Section 2) Lubricate automatic transmission selector/kickdown linkage Check security and condition of steering and suspension components, gaiters and boots (Chapter 10, Section 2) Check condition and security of driveshaft joints (Chapter 8, Section 2) Inspect underbody and panels for corrosion or other damage Inspect brake pipes and hoses (Chapter 9, Section 22) Clean idle speed control linkage at throttle (when applicable) (Chapter 4, Section 11) Road test and check operation of ABS Check automatic transmission fluid level (engine hot) (Chapter 6, Section 11) Check engine for satisfactory hot starting Check that automatic choke is fully off with engine hot (not fuel-injection models) Check power steering fluid level (when applicable) (Chapter 10, Section 3) Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or two years, whichever comes first In addition to the work specified in the previous schedules: Renew Clean tower Adjust 13) Renew

air cleaner element (Chapter 3, Section 5) and inspect distributer cap, rotor arm, HT leads and coil (Chapter 4, Section 4) automatic transmission brake bands (Chapter 6, Section fuel filter (fuel-injection models only) (Chapter 3, Section

9) Renew

crankcase

ventilation

vent

valve

(carburettor

models)

(Chapter 1, Section 25) In addition to the work in the previous schedule: Check

operation

of latches,

check straps and

locks; lubricate

if

necessary Check condition and tension of auxiliary drivebelt(s); adjust or renew as necessary (Chapter 2, Section 13) Check tightness of battery terminals, clean and neutralise corrosion if necessary (Chapter 12, Section 3) Check engine valve clearances (Chapter 1, Section 51 or 93) Check tightness of inlet manifold bolts (V6 only) (Chapter 3, Section 32) Renew spark plugs (Chapter 4, Section 3) Clean air conditioning condenser fins (when applicable) (Chapter 11, Section 56) Check air conditioning refrigerant charge (when applicable) (Chapter 11, Section 56)

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or three years, whichever comes first Renew brake hydraulic system seals and hoses if necessary (Chapter 9, Section 11, 13, 21 and 22) Renew brake hydraulic fluid (Chapter 9, Section 4) Renew camshaft drivebelt on ohc models — recommended as a precautionary measure (Chapter 1, Sections 14 and 46)

Every two years, regardless of mileage Renew coolant (Chapter 2, Sections 3 to 6)

20

Recommended Component

lubricants and fluids

or system

1 Engine

Lubricant type or specification

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range 10W-30 to 20W-50, to API

SF/CC 2A Manual gearbox

Semi-synthetic gear oil to Ford spec. ESD M2C175-A

2B Automatic transmission

ATF to Ford spec. SQM-2C9010-A

3 Power-assisted steering

ATF (as above)

4 Brake hydraulic system

Hydraulic fluid to Ford spec. SAM-6C9103-A

5 Cooling system

Soft water/antifreeze to Ford spec. SSM-97B9103-A

6 Final drive (normal or limited slip differential)

(80 EP)

(TO Dexron II)

Gear oil SAE 90EP to API GL5 Note: The above are general recommendations for a temperate climate. Lubrication requirements may vary in extreme temperatures or under severe conditions of use. If in doubt consult a Ford dealer, or the operator's handbook supplied with the vehicle.

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft)

25.4 0.305 x KK 1.609

Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’)

= Millimetres (mm) = Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

X Xx Xx

0.0394 3.281 0.621

= = = = = = =

X xX X X Xx Xx x

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833 1.057 0.22 0.833

= = = = = = =

= Litres (I)

Xx

0.264

= US gallons (US gal)

28.35 0.454

= Grams (g) = Kilograms (kg)

Xx Xx

0.035 AXONS)

= Ounces (oz) = Pounds (Ib)

0.278 4.448 0.1

= Newtons

(N)

x

3.6

= Ounces-force

(ozf; oz)

= Newtons

(N)

x

0.225

= Pounds-force

(Ibf; Ib)

= Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

Xx

9.81

= Newtons (N)

0.070

= Kilograms-force

Xx

14.223

= Pounds-force

0.068

= Atmospheres

16.387 0.568 ISS, 1.201 0.946 4.546

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial. quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

KK KKK x

Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) Litres (I) Litres (I) US quarts (US qt) Litres (I) Litres (I) US gallons (US gal)

=Inches (in) = Feet (ft) = Miles

Cubic inches (cu in; in*) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal)

Mass (weight) Ounces Pounds

(oz) (lb)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; oz) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

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Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions

and

on later models

information

Contents aa ae nee torre cccioo cscs dovsee cecevcsorces oe Mesh rrccten eae OCICERO EVER SPOcCifiCatiOMs oo: ccs. sccostesestas washes eee oto nceeaen apa nc arene oan ENGinen(2:4iamGi2-9)VG) ies caiccccctes acreseset erie a eas tanec

1 2 3

General Engine — removal Cylinder heads — removal, dismantling, reassembly and refitting Timing chain — removal and refitting (engine in car) Timing chain — removal and refitting (engine on bench) Oil pump — removal, overhaul and refitting Valve clearances — adjustment Crankshaft and bearings — examination and renovation Fuel and exhaust SYStEMS ..........ccccccceeeeenceeeeeeeenneeeeneneeesensees Fuel pressure regulator (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — removal and refitting Fuel injectors (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — removal and refitting Fuel pump (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — removal and refitting Fuel filter (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — removal and refitting

Fuel and Fuel Fuel Idle

1.

Ignition and engine management SysteMs .............ee 5 Distributor (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — removal and refitting Engine management system module (1.8 ohc, January 1987 on) Ignition timing adjustment (1.8 ohc, January 1987 on) Manual gearbox and automatic transmission ................00 Manual gearbox — layshaft bearing modification (2.8 and

4

rail temperature switch (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — removal refitting shut-off switch (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — removal and refitting injection system relays (2.4 and 2.9 V6) adjustments (2.4 and 2.9 V6)

Introduction

This Supplement contains information which is additional to, or a revision of, material in the preceding Chapters, and in particular features details of the 2.4 and 2.9 litre V6 engines which were introduced in October 1986. The Sections in this Supplement follow the same order as the original Chapters. The Specifications are grouped together for convenience but follow Chapter order.

2

Pierburg 2V carburettor (1.8 ohc, September 1986 on) — modification ; Unleaded fuel (2.4 and 2.9 V6) — general

2.9 V6) Gearchange biasing mechanism — modification Automatic transmission fluid — contamination after component failure (all models)

Biraleitve Sy cernn es

ete reheart

ceteeeeee

Anti-lock braking system — modification Steering and SUSPENSION 0.0.00... ee ceee ce cees eects eereeeeeeeseeesseensees Tie-rod inboard balljoint — revised securing method Rear suspension alignment Rear suspension guide plate centre bolts (1987 on) Bodyworkeand: fittings: i..c..005..dccg-ceetestecteees. couche swede scneeeaceeeam Heater coolant valve — removal and refitting El@ctricaliSy Steric ciscccce lh sveskcdeernsccccuovsetats icsevecsduceatenadenssccanesuatwen Headlamp dim-dip lighting system

DU OKG Settee cath caress Meneree hee aaa da ati e bas Gace codon ee UID IG ICAP AGE. vec scu cece ogn ths wee vnc ttecvevetnan soos eR ee ee REOMPTESSION! FALIO! oo c.5.,Meche pects coce eet eatceon acces mete ae anew ees saneeee Maximunt power (DIN KW) @"rpim) re. .