Haynes Ford Econoline Vans Owners Workshop Manual 0856963445, 9780856963445

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

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Ford Econoline Owners

Workshop Manual by J H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and Marcus Daniels Models covered: All Econoline models from 1969 thru 1977 fitted with the 302, 351 or 460 cu in V8 engine

ISBN 0 85696 344 5

© _ Haynes Publishing Group 1978

rear

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in England

(344 -9D1)

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD

YEOVIL

SOMERSET

distributed in the USA by

HAYNES PUBLICATIONS 861 LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

INC

) ENGLAND

Acknowledgements Special thanks are due to the Ford Motor Company in the USA for the supply of technical information and certain illustrations. The Champion Sparking Plug Company supplied the illustrations showing the various spark plug conditions. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were provided by Lloyds Industries Ltd who supply ‘Turtle Wax’, ‘Dupli-Color Holts’, and other Holts range products. The Section of Chapter 10 dealing with the suppression of radio

interference, was originated by Mr |.P. Davey, and was first published in Motor magazine. Lastly, thanks are due to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. Particularly, Brian Horsfall and Martin Penny, who shared the mechanical work, and Les Brazier and Leon Martindale, who, between them, took the photographs. John Rose edited the text and lan Robson planned the layout of each page.

About this manual [ts aims The aim of this book is to help you get the best value from your van. It can do so in two ways. First it can help you decide what work must be done, even should you choose to get it done by a garage; the

routine random second you the

maintenance and the diagnosis and course of action when faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will also use the and fuller purpose by tackling the work yourself. This can give satisfaction of doing the job personally. On the simpler jobs it

may even be. quicker than booking the van into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps more important, money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover labour and overheads.

To reduce labor costs a garage will often give a cheaper repair by fitting a reconditioned assembly. The home mechanic can be helped by this book to diagnose the fault and make a repair using only a minor

spare part. The book has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can cope with complicated work. The jobs are described assuming only normal tools are available, and not special tools, unless absolutely necessary. A reasonable outfit of tools will be a very worthwhile investment. Many special workshop togls produced by the makers merely speed the work, and wherever

possible, guidance is given as to how to Go the job without them. On a very few occasions

components;

a special tool is essential to prevent

damage

where this is the case, its use is described. Though

to

it

might be possible to borrow the tool, such work may have to be entrusted to an official repair agent. For further information on tools and equipment refer to the Section entitled, ‘Tools and working facilities’.

Using the manual The manual is divided into twelve Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections which are headed in bold type between horizontal lines. Each Section consists of serially numbered paragraphs. There are two types of illustration: (1) Figures which are numbered according to Chapter and sequence of occurrence in that Chapter. (2) Photographs which have a reference number in their caption. All photographs apply to the Chapter in which they occur so that the reference figure pinpoints the pertinent Section and paragraph number. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. If it is necessary to refer to another Chapter the reference will be given in Chapter number and Section. Cross-references given without use of the word ‘Chapter’ apply to Section and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter, eg. ‘see Section 8’ means also ‘in this Chapter’. When the left or right side of the car is mentioned it is as if one is seated in the driver's seat looking forward.

Although

every care has been taken in the preparation of this .

manual the publishers and author cannot accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Section Introductory sections

—_=

2

Engine

Cooling system

Page 5

Routine

5

Tools and working facilities

12

Jacking and towing

6

ne

19

Refitting

38

27 30

Fault diagnosis

39

Draining Flushing

41 41

Filling Radiator Thermostat

41 43 43

Temperature gauge Fault diagnosis

Exhaust system

Emission control systems

Carburetors

50 ~——Fault diagnosis

ea

ee

Re

Contact breaker points Distributor

75 76

Spark plugs

78

85 86 86 86 88 92 92 94 95 97, 98 103

ee

eee ee eee

Braking system

ee

10

Electrical system

Suspension and steering

Bodywork and underframe

ee

64 71

Re

RS

eR

Let

PG

Ignition timing Fault diagnosis

78 83

Release bearing —_ Linkage Pedal Fault diagnosis

89 89 89 90

Part B Automatic transmission ‘Fluid level checking Removal and refitting Shift linkage Fault diagnosis

100 101 103 103

‘Fault diagnosis

108

106 106

Axleshaft Rear axle ee Bleeding Flexible hoses

109 113

Differential Fault diagnosis

3 116

119 119

Master cylinder Brake pedal

128 131

Disc brake pads Disc brake calipers Front and rear drum brakes

119 123 123

Parking brake Brake booster Fault diagnosis

131 133 133

Battery

137

Windshield wiper and washer

153

Alternator

138

Horn

55

Starter motor

140

Radios and tape players

156

Front Front Front Rear

wheel bearings axle shock absorber suspension

Maintenance

ee

64

Removal and refitting

i 12

‘

Universal joints

Fuses and relays Lights and switches a 11

ee

59

ee

Part A Manual transmission Removal and refitting Dismantling Examination and renovation Input and output shaft Reassembly Gearshift linkage Fault diagnosis

Neen

ee

eee

50

Manual and automatic transmission

9

45 45

48

6

Rear axle

8

43 44

Fuel pump

Adjustment Removal Overhaul Inspection Refitting

8

Water pump _ Drivebelts

ee

Clutch

Driveshaft

8

Removal

5

7

maintenance

Examination and renovation Reassembly

Fuel tank

a

a 4 Ignition system

Page

Buying spare parts

I 3 Carburetion; fuel, exhaust and Thermostatic air cleaner

emission control systems

Section

Introduction to the Econoline

ss

ss

Fault diagnosis 142 142 EE

159 EEE

182 187 187 187

Rear shock absorber Steering and tires Wheels Fault diagnosis

189 189 92 192

193

Fenders and bumpers

210

210 Heater 195 Repairs 215 196 =Air conditioning Doors and windows 205 Radiator grille SsrrinirrrnnTnnnIT =il : P Metric conversion tables Index

jenuew Siu} 10} aj914aA yOefo1d ay} Se pasn auljoUOd A poy 9yt

Introduction to the Econoline The Ford Econoline was first introduced in 1961 and known as the E-100 Series. It was available with either a van, club wagon or pick-up body and a choice of three V6 engines of varying capacities. This manual covers all models equipped with the V8 engine which became available in 1969. This engine has a capacity of 302 cu in and was an optional fit on all models until 1974 when it was replaced by the larger 351 cu in or 460 cu in V8 engines. The three engines are very similar in design, comprising two banks of four cylinders opposed to each other in a ‘V’ configuration of 90°. The crankshaft is supported by five shell type main bearings and the connecting rod bearings are of the same type. The valve gear is actuated by a single camshaft located in the center of the ‘V’ shaped cylinder block and is chain driven from

the crankshaft.

The standard

transmission

on all models

is a manual

shift three-

speed gearbox, with a cable operated clutch. Automatic transmission is available as an optional extra. The power output is transmitted to the rear axle by a single tubular driveshaft on models fitted with manual transmission and a two-piece driveshaft with a center support bearing in the case of automatic transmission. The front suspension is extremely robust and consists of twin ‘I’ beam axles pivoted at the inner ends and attached to the chassis by coil springs and radius rods. Damping is effected by telescopic shock absorbers. The rear suspension is the conventional semi-eliptical leaf spring system with telescopic shock absorbers. Short or long wheelbase versions are available and with a gross vehicle weight capacity ranging from 2,300 to 11,000 Ib the Econoline models offer a wide choice to those seeking a business/pleasure vehicle.

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources although they generally fall into two categories — those items which are supplied by a Ford dealer and those which are supplied by auto accessory stores. In some cases the two facilities may be combined with an over-thecounter service and a pre-pack display area. In some cases it may be possible to obtain parts on a service-exchange basis but, where this can be done, always make sure that the parts returned are clean and intact. Our advice regarding spare parts purchase is as follows: Ford dealers: This is the best source of supply for major items such as transmissions, engines, body panels, etc. It is also the only place to obtain parts if your vehicle is still under warranty, since the warranty may be invalidated if non-Ford parts are used. Auto accessory stores: Auto accessory stores are able to supply practically all of the items needed for repair, maintenance, tune-up and customizing. This is not only true for vehicle but also for tools and test equipment. Whichever source of spare parts is used it will be essential to provide information concerning the model and year of manufacture of your vehicle.

Vehicle identification The vehicle identification or warranty number is stamped on a plate

SERIES-LETTER AND FIRST TWO DIGITSOF SERIES DESIGNATION

ASSEMBLY ~— PLANT

HH

Vehicle loading information Care must be taken not to exceed the maximum load carrying capacity of your vehicle. Always distribute the cargo as evenly as possible over the floor area. Overloading the rear of the vehicle will reduce front wheel traction and can cause serious handling problems. To ensure correct loading a safety certification label is attached to the driver's rear door pillar (see example). This gives the maximum total weight permissible for your vehicle and is known as the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The maximum loading of the front and rear axles is also shown and this is identified as GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). It should be noted that if one axle is loaded to the maximum figure the other axle must not be loaded to such an extent that the combined axle weight loadings exceed the maximum permissible gross weight of the vehicle. Remember to include the weight of the driver, passengers and fuel when calculating the gross vehicle weight.

REAR

AXLE

SAFETY

CERTIFICATION

LABEL

TYPE/G.V.W.

“Z1F

€26

If it becomes necessary to order new parts for your vehicle, make a note of the warranty number and take it along to the local Ford dealer.

TRANSMISSION

UNIT NUMBER

ENGINE

located on the rear face of the left front door lock panel. The plate also

gives engine and transmission code numbers along with other relevant information (see example).

GCAVR

OR GVWR

LOSPD

CAPACITY

1S EXC

FEDED MADE

A00000

IN

USA TR» INS * A>

— SAMPLE MFD. BY FORD MOTOR CO. IN U.S.A. DATE 09/75 GVWR 6050 GAWR FRONT 2850 REAR 3460 THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS TO ALL APPLICABLE FEDERAL MOTOR VEHI CLE SAFETY STANDARDS IN EFFECT ON DATE OF MANUFACTURE SHOWN ABOVE E14HHA00000 TRUCK

LE

MAXIMUM

3,460 LBS. MAXIMUM

Veh. |dent

Body

No

Color

STV

Trim

PRE

eee

Trans

6,050 LBS. > MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED MAXIMUM GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATING

COLOR

WHEELBASE

CODE

CAB OR BODY TYPE/ TRIM CODE

Vehicle rating plate

DISTRICT CODE SPECIAL ORDER NUMBER

Safety certification and weight data plate

Axle

Oso

Jacking and towing Jacking If it becomes necessary to raise the vehicle off the ground in order to change a wheel or carry out maintenance tasks, do not raise the vehicle by the bumpers. To change a front wheel, place the jack under the axle radius arm as shown in the illustration ‘A’ or ‘B’, depending on the model. To change a rear wheel, place the jack under the axle as shown in illustration ‘C’. Always ensure that the vehicle is standing on a level surface and that the wheels, other than the one being changed or removed are chocked. Loosen the wheel nuts in a diagonal sequence and tighten in a similar manner.

Towing The following procedures should be observed before towing is considered as an incorrect method could ruin the transmission due to lack of lubrication.

A

Front jacking point for Series E100 and 150

1 Make

sure the parking brakes

are released

and the transmission

gears are in neutral. 2 Ensure that the transmission

and rear axle are working properly before towing. If the rear axle is defective it will be necessary to raise the rear of the vehicle. If the transmission is defective the driveshaft. can be removed or the rear wheels raised. 3 When towing with the rear wheels raised, fit a locking device to the front wheels to prevent them turning. 4 \|f the vehicle is fitted with an automatic transmission and the rear wheels are on the ground, do not tow further than 15 miles or at a speed greater than 30 mph. If this is not possible, disconnect the driveshaft or raise the rear wheels. 5 It is important that the towing device be fastened only to the brackets that attach the bumper to the frame, and must be passed under the bottom edge of the bumper.

B Front jacking point for Series E250 and 350

C Rearjacking point

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from

those used inAmerica. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

—

English

American

English

American

Aerial Accelerator Alternator

Antenna Gas pedal Generator (AC)

Anti-roll bar Battery Bodywork Bonnet (engine cover) Boot lid Boot (luggage compartment) Bottom gear Bulkhead Cam follower or tappet Carburettor Catch

Countershaft Primary shoe Latches

Stabiliser or sway bar Energizer Sheet metal Hood Trunk lid Trunk 1st gear Firewall Valve lifter or tappet Carburetor Latch

Layshaft (of gearbox) Leading shoe (of brake) Locks Motorway Number plate Paraffin

Freeway, turnpike etc License plate Kerosene

Petrol

Gasoline

Petrol tank ‘Pinking’ Propeller shaft

Gas tank ‘Pinging’ Driveshaft

Quarter light Retread

Quarter window Recap

Reverse Rocker cover

Back-up Valve cover

Choke/venturi

Barrel

Roof rack

Car-top carrier

Circlip

Snap-ring

Saloon

Sedan

Clearance

Lash

Seized

Frozen

Crownwheel Disc (brake)

Ring gear (of differential) Rotor/disk

Side indicator lights Side light

Side marker lights Parking light

Drop arm Drop head coupe

Pitman arm Convertible

Silencer Spanner

Muffler Wrench

Dynamo Earth (electrical) Engineer's blue Estate car Exhaust manifold

Generator (DC) Ground

Sili panel (beneath doors) Rocker panel Split cotter (for valve spring cap) Lock (for valve spring retainer) Split pin Cotter pin Steering arm Spindle arm Sump Oil pan

Prussian blue Station wagon Header

Fast back (Coupe)

Hard top

Tab washer

Tang; lock

Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber

Trouble shooting Float bowl

Tailgate Tappet

Liftgate Valve lifter

Free-play

Lash

Thrust bearing

Throw-out bearing

Freewheel

Coast

Top gear

High

Gudgeon pin Gearchange

Piston pin or wrist pin Shift

Trackrod (of steering) Trailing shoe (of brake)

Tie-rod (or connecting rod) Secondary shoe

Gearbox Halfshaft

Transmission Axleshaft

Transmission Tyre

Whole drive line Tire

Handbrake

Parking brake

Van

Panel wagon/van

Hood

Soft top

Vice

Vise

Hot spot Indicator Interior light

Heat riser Turn signal Dome lamp

Wheel nut Windscreen Wing/mudguard

Lug nut Windshield Fender

Miscellaneous points

An ‘oil seal’ is fitted to components lubricated by grease! A ‘damper’ is a ‘shock absorber’, it damps out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of bump

impact. Both names

; haphazardly. Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on the phrase ‘Primary’ or ‘Secondary’ shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be ‘Leading or ‘Trailing’. A drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.

are correct, and both are used

on different descriptive names result. The shoe Bendix brakes is most uncommon. Therefore

‘Leading’ shoe is one on which a point on the anchor end. The opposite is a ‘Trailing’ shoe,

Routine

maintenance

/ntroduction The Routine Maintenance instructions are basically those recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. They are supplemented by additional maintenance tasks proven to be necessary.

Brakes Check

reservoir fluid level. If this has fallen noticeably,

check for

fluid leakage (photo) Check for satisfactory brake operation

It must be emphasised that if any parts of the engine or its ancillary

equipment involved with emission control are disturbed, cleaned or adjusted, the vehicle must be taken to the local Ford dealer for checking to ensure that it still meets legal requirements. Tasks in the maintenance instructions marked with an asterisk (*) must be entrusted to a Ford dealer. The reader should also familiarise himself with the conditions of the vehicle warranty if the vehicle is less than 5 years old. If the conditions of the warranty are broken or an accurate record of servicing not kept, the warranty can become invalidated. On later models three maintenance schedules, A, B or C, are given. These cover the variations in servicing requirements for vehicles sold in different states and the type of engine fitted. To check which maintenance schedule applies to your vehicle, refer to the emission control data decal located in the engine compartment, (see example on this page). In the case of the earlier E-300 models, carry out the maintenance

Lights, wipers, horns, instruments Check operation of all lights Check operation of windscreen wipers and washers Check that the horn operates Check that all instruments and gauges are operating Engine compartment

Check the engine oil level; top-up if necessary (photos) Check radiator coolant level Check battery electrolyte level

All models Every 3000 miles (50000 km). or 3 months

tasks listed under 4,000 mile (5,600 km) heading and then continue

The following maintenance items must be carried out at this mileage/time interval if the vehicle is being operated in severe condi-

with the items listed under Schedule ‘C’.

tions. These are considered to be:

a) Outside temperature remains below 10°F (—12-2°C) for 60 days or more and most trips are less than 10 miles. b) /f a trailer having a total weight of more than 2000 /b is towed over long distances. c) Extended periods of idling or low speed operation.

All models Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly or before a long journey Steering Check tire pressures (when cold) Examine tires for wear and damage Check steering for smooth and accurate operation

See)

For normal vehicle operation these service items may be carried out at the prescribed service intervals.

TSS

ae

ENG-NE FAMILY, 23 FGK/AIR CATALYST «1-CEF) ENGINE DISPLACEMENT CIO

MAKE ALL AOJUSTMENTS OPERATING TEMPERATURES

140

- PARK PLUG

QISTR.BUIOR

AGRE 52

BREAKERLESS

CHOKE HOUSING NOTCH SETTING

CI6IN

INDEX Nels.

:

~[ AUTO: | MANUAL Ff DRIVE | NEUTRAL MOVE oDEG BTC 1ODEGBIDC UAL

se Meee te Sane eee

2950)

THE LIMITER CAP(S) CONSULT T RVICE MAN FOR DESCRIPTION OF ART. ENRICHMENT METHOD OF IDLE MIXTURE A NI TO BE USED: ONLY DURING TUNE UPS MAJOR CARBURETOR REPAIRS IDLE MIXTUB ST BE MEASURED W!TH THERMACTOR AIR: Q

oes

INITIAL

AND

TE

SE PA REGULATIONS APPLICABLE

TIMipys

PL

FADJUST WITH HOSES DISCONNECTED D AY THE DISTRIBUTOR: P ;

RENCE TO A/C THROTTLE SOLENOID THERMACTOR R AND DECEL VALVE APPLICABLE ONLY. IF THE £NGINE 'S SO EQUIPPED. CONSULT -SERVICE PUBLICATIONS‘ FOR FURTHER INSTRUCTIONS ON TIMING ANO IDLE SET

8

ee

-WITH ENGINE AT NORMAL A/C AND HEADLIGHTS OFF

CURB IOLE ADJUST WITH THROTTLE SOLENOID POS|TIONER ENERGIZED: THERMACTOR AIR ON. ALL VACUUM HOSES CONNECTED AND AIR CLEANER IN POSITION WHENEVER -CURB IDOLE IS RESET CHECK AND ADJU9 | THE DECEL VALVE ACCORDING TO’ THE SERVICE

i

IGNITION TIMING -° TIMING RPM CPM

032-

MAN/TRANS _ : -AUTO/TRANS

TRANSMISSION

CORB IDLE

GAP

EX

121975 MODEL YEAR NEW MOTOR VEHICLES

2 CONFORMS TO THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA CERTIFICATION “IANOARDS

S ORL MUTOR COMPANY

FEAR NEW MOTOR VEHIC

APPLIC ABLE-TC1976 MODLL

>

76EG.3C 465. CA

Example of an emission control information decal

CODE LETTER

Routine maintenance

©

rr

Complete the checks in the weekly inspection plus the following: Change the engine oil (photo) Fit a new oil filter (photo)

E-300 models only Every 4000 miles (5600 km) or 4 months whichever occurs first Change the engine oil and filter. Lubricate and free up the exhaust control valve. Adjust the curb idle speed

Schedules A and B Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 5 months, whichever occurs first

Renew the engine oil and filter Check the ignition timing Adjust engine idle speeds and mixture *Check and adjust fuel deceleration valve *Check throttle solenoid operation Check brake master cylinder fluid level Adjust clutch pedal free-play, if necessary

Every 6000 miles (10000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first

Change engine oil and filter (every 4000 miles (5600 km) on E-300 models) Check transmission fluid levels (photo) Check brake fluid level Adjust clutch pedal free-play, if necessary *Check fuel deceleration valve if fitted *Adjust engine idle speed and mixture Check the torque of intake manifold bolts Lubricate exhaust control valve if fitted Check operation of throttle and choke linkage Renew fuel filter Check all drivebelt tensions Lubricate front axle spindle pins and steering linkage

Schedules A and B Every 10000

miles ((16000 km) or 10 months, whichever occurs

first

Change engine ol!

General view of engine from inside the cab

ee

eee

Schedule C Every 12000

miles (20000 km) or 12 months, whichever occurs

first

Adjust engine valve clearances Check carburetor air cleaner element Renew all spark plugs Inspect spark plug wires *Check spark control systems and delay valve *Check EGR system and delay valve Check condition of coolant Inspect all drivebelts for wear and renew if necessary *Inspect evaporative emission canister Check the torque of all engine driven accessory mounting bolts Check front suspension and steering linkage for abnormal slackness or damaged seals *Adjust automatic transmission bands Inspect exhaust system and heat shields for corrosion or damage

Schedules A and B Every 15000 first

Schedule C

ee

miles (24000 km) or 15 months, whichever occurs

Note: The following checks are Schedule B only: Check the torque of inlet manifold bolts Lubricate and check exhaust control valve Check condition of coolant Check drivebelt tensions Check PCV system hoses *Check thermactor system

Renew spark plugs Inspect spark plug HT cables Check ignition timing Inspect distributor cap and rotor *Check spark control system and delay valve *Check carburetor idle speed and mixture Check throttle and choke linkage Check air cleaner element *Check air cleaner temperature control and delay valve Renew fuel system filter Check and adjust valve clearances Check the torque of engine driven accessory mounting bolts Note: The following checks are for A and B Schedules Inspect the exhaust system and heat shields for corrosion damage

or

the

automatic

transmission

Topping up the engine oil level

Checking level

Rear axle filler plug

Engine oil pan drain plug

Checking the brake fluid level

Check the power steering reservoir fluid level (when fitted)

Location of engine oil filter

t

V—

*

Upper axle pin grease nipple

Lower axle pin grease nipple

Steering arm grease nipple (typical)

fluid

11

GEARSHIFT

CONTROL

LEVERS

STEERING

DRAG LINK FITTING a

: alee

KING PIN — 2 FITTINGS ON EACH SIDE

&2) FITTING

DRAG

FRONT

LINK FITTING

BUUTING

MANUAL

TRANSMISSION

JOINT

SPLINE

UNIVERSAL

UNIVERSAL

PLUG

LINKAGE

UNIVERSAL

UNIVERSAL

BEARINGS

FITTING 7)

TRANSMISSION

WHEEL

FITTING

FITTING

Chassis

lubrication

JOINT FITTING

chart

JOINT FITTING

JOINT

FITTING

DIFFERENTIAL

PLUG

Recommended

lubricants and fluids

Component

Description

Ford Specification

Component

Description

Ford Specification

Hinges, hinge check and pivots

Polyethylene Grease

ESB-M1C106-B

Automatic

Ford Automatic Transmission fluid

ESW-M2C33-F Type F

Brake master cylinder Front suspension ball joints, front wheel bearings and

Heavy Duty Brake Fluid Ball Joint and Multi-purpose Grease

ESA-M6C25-A

Ford Manual

ESW-M2C83-B

ESA-M1C75-B

Engine

Transmission Oil Engine Oil*

ESE-M2C101-C

Polyethylene

ESB-M1C106-B

Engine coolant

Ford Cooling System Fluid

ESE-M97B18-C

ESB-M2C20-A

Steering gear housing (manual and

Steering Gear Oil

ESW-M1C87-A

Silicone Lubricant

ESR-M1314-A

transmission

Manual transmission

clutch linkage Hood latch and auxiliary catch

Grease

Lock cylinders

Lock Lubricant

power) Rear axle:

Door weatherstrip Conventional Traction-Lok

Power steering (Pump reservoir)

Hypoid Gear Oil Hypoid Gear Oil

ESW-M2C105-A ESW-M2C119-A

Power Steering Fluid

ESW-M2C128-B

*Note: engine oil of a viscosity suitable for the ambjent temperature must be used. Consult the operators handbook supplied with your vehicle.

12

Routine maintenance Inspect fuel tank filler cap, and vapor lines for leakage or deteriora-

Check transmission fluid levels Check clutch pedal free-play and adjust if necessary Inspect front suspension and steering for looseness or damaged seals Have your local Ford dealer adjust the automatic transmission bands Check brake pads and linings for wear

tion

Renew air cleaner element (photos)

Schedule C Every 24000 miles (40000 km) or 2 years, whichever occurs first

Schedule C Every first

18000

miles (30000

km) or 18 months,

whichever

occurs

Inspect distributor cap and rotor Check tightness of rear spring mountings

Schedules A, B and C

ScheduleA Every 20000 first)

Dismantle, lubricate and adjust front wheel bearings Renew crankcase filter in air cleaner Renew air cleaner element Inspect filler cap and fuel line for deterioration or leakage *Check thermactor system if fitted Check cooling system hoses for leakage Inspect disc pads and rear brake lining for wear Inspect all brake hoses and lines

miles (32000 km) or 20 months, ,

Carry out the maintenance tasks listed vehicles at 15000 miles, plus the following:

whichever

for schedule

A

occurs

and

B

Renew the PCV valve Clean PCV system hoses Renew crankcase filter in air cleaner *Inspect evaporative emission canister

Every 30000

miles (50000

km) or 30 months,

whichever

occurs

first

Lubricate front suspension and steering linkage Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid Renew coolant Examine all brake hoses and pipes and renew if necessary Check wheel cylinders and master cylinder for leaks and

renew

seals where necessary Renew brake fluid

Tools and working facilities Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-ityourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor

repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense

is justified by the amount

of use these tools will be

put to.

It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the publishers of this manual.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrenches - 3 in, # in, + in, & in, in. AF Adjustable wrench - 9 inch Engine oil pan/gearbox/rear axle drain plug key (where applicable)

Spark plug wrench (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake adjuster wrench Brake bleed nipple wrench

Screwdriver - 4 in long x } in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x + in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tire pump Tire pressure gauge

Grease gun Oil can Fine emery cloth(1 sheet) Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the 4 inch square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box wrenches are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Spec/a/ list.

Sockets (or box wrenches) to cover range in previous list

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) Se/f-grip wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer

Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

ie

Tools and working eee ee facilities a

Rl

Screwdriver - 6 in long x % in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 2 in long x % in square (flat blade) Screwdriver - 14 in long x in dia (cross blade) Screwdriver - 3 in long x ¢ in dia (electricians) Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 4 inch Pea (this can be made by grinding the end of a broken hacksaw

lade

13

rr

such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc., must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time-to-time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Use of tools

Scraper (this can be made by flattening and sharpening one end of a piece of copper pipe) Centre punch

Throughout this book various used, such as: ‘Drive out the bearing’.

Pin punch

‘Undo the flange bolts evenly and diagonally’. When two parts are held together by a number of bolts round their edge, these must be tightened to draw the parts down together flat.

Hacksaw Valve lapping tool

Steel rule/straight edge Allen keys Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle stands

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or a motorists club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local repair station or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find

occasional references to these manufacturers special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers special tool is given. However,

sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust the work to a franchised repair station. Valve spring compressor

Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Carburetor flow balancing device (where applicable)

Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

describing

techniques

are

They must be slackened evenly to prevent the component warping. Initially the bolts should be put in finger-tight only. Then they should be tightened gradually, at first only a turn each; and diagonally, doing the one opposite that tightened first, then one to a side, followed by another opposite that, and so on. The second time each bolt is tightened, only half a turn should be given. The third time round, only quarter of a turn is given each, and this is kept up till tight. The reverse sequence is used to slacken them. If any part has to be ‘driven’, such as a ball bearing out of its housing, without a proper press, it can be done with a hammer provided a few rules for use of a hammer are remembered. Always keep the component being driven straight so it will not jam. Shield

whatever

is being

hit from

damage

by the hammer.

Soft headed

hammers are available. A drift can be used, or if the item being hit is soft, use wood. Aluminium is very easily damaged. Steel is a bit better. Hard steel, such as a bearing race, is very strong. Something threaded at the end must be protected by fitting a nut. But do not hammer the nut: the threads will tear. If fevering items with makeshift arrangement, such as screwdrivers, irretrievable damage can be done. Be sure the lever rests either on something that does not matter, or put in padding. Burrs can be filed off afterwards. But indentations are there for good, and can cause leaks. When holding something in a vise, the jaws must go on a part that is strong. If the indentation from the jaw teeth will matter, then lead or fibre jaw protectors must be used. Hollow sections are liable to be crushed. Nuts that will not undo will sometimes move if the wrench handle is extended with another. But only extend a ring wrench, not an open jaw one. A hammer blow either to the wrench, or the bolt, may jump it out of its contact: the bolt locally welds itself in place. In extreme cases the nut will undo if driven off with drift and hammer. When reassembling such bolts, tighten them normally, not by the method needed to undo them. For pressing things, such as a sleeve bearing into its housing, a vise, or an electric drill stand, make good presses. Pressing tools to hold each component can be arranged by using such things as socket wrenches, or short lengths of steel water pipe. Long bolts with

washers can be used to draw things into place rather than pressing

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average repair station or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often

offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been eeDr Eee ea oa A

them. There are often several ways of doing something. If stuck, stop and think. Special tools can readily be made out of odd bits of scrap. Accordingly, at the same time as building up a tool kit, collect useful bits of steel. Normally all nuts or bolts have some locking arrangement. The most common is a spring washer. There are tab washers that are bent up. Castellated nuts have split pins. Self-locking nuts have special crowns

that resist shaking loose. Self-locking nuts should not be reused, as the self-locking action is weakened as soon as they have been loosened at all. Tab washers should only be reused when they can be bent over in a new place. If you find a nut without any locking arrangement, check to see what it is meant to have.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If

Care and maintenance of tools

Pe

phrases

See

Se

EPA

eh ie Pee

vote oY 3

anything

more

than

routine

maintenance

is to be carried

out, some

form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit ofa

qarane

nr warkchonn

Waving

donne thie

any

renaire chould

alwavs

14

Tools and working facilities

be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vise: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which become necessary.

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more

general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least & in (8

mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and back-up lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Wrench jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in.)

Wrench size

Jaw gap (in.)

Wrench size

0-250 0:275

4 in. AF 7 mm AF

0-944

24 mm AF

: 0.315 0-340

311/32 mmmm AFin. AF;

0-354

9 mm AF

0-375 0-393 0-433 0-437 0-445 0-472 0-500 0-512 0-525 0-551 0-562 0-590 0-600 0-625 0-629 0-669 0-687 0-708 0-710 0:748 0-750 0:812 0-820 0-866 0.875 0-920

3 in. AF 10 mm AF 11 mm AF % in. AF 3 in. Whitworth;4 in. 12 mm AF 3 in. AF 13 mm AF z in. Whitworth; 3 in. 14 mm AF 2% in. AF 15 mm AF 3% in. Whitworth; 2 in. 3 in. AF 16 mm AF 17 mm AF in. AF 18 mm AF 3 in. Whitworth; % in. 19 mm AF 3 in. AF in. AF % in. Whitworth; 4 in. 22 mm AF $ in. AF + in. Whitworth; 2 in. 85 in, AF

0-937

4 in. Whitworth

BSF

1-000

1 in. AF

1-010

2 in. Whitworth; 2 in. BSF

1:023

26 mm AF

1-062 1-100 1-125

136 in. AF; 27 mm AF 2 in. Whitworth; 2 in. BSF 13 in. AF

1-181

30 mm AF

1-200

2 in. Whitworth; 2 in. BSF

1:259

32 mm AF

1-300

3 in. Whitworth; Z in. BSF

1-390

#2 in. Whitworth; #8 in. BSF

1.417

36 mm AF

1-437 1-480 1-500 1-574

14 in. AF % in. Whitworth; 1 in. BSF 14 in. AF 40 mm AF; 2 in. Whitworth

1-614

41 mm AF

1-670

1 in. Whitworth;

1-811

46 mm AF

1-812 1-860

172 in. AF 13 in. Whitworth; 14 in. BSF

1-968

50 mm AF

2-000 2.050 2-165 2-362

2 in. AF 13 in. Whitworth; 12 in. BSF 55 mm AF 60 mm AF

1-250 1312

BSF

BSF

1-625

1-687 BSF

1-875 BSF

BSF

12 in. AF

1S in. AF

1 Sin. AF

112 in. AF

13 in. BSF

1 Zin. AF

Chapter 1/Engine Contents

Camshaft and camshaft bearings — examination and renovation

Si

MANO

16

Enginemefittingie

Connecting rods and piston pins — examination and renovation . oe -ck).c ce Seco Crankshaftdamper— removal!

30 11

Engine'removall— general) svicee same Engine removal — models from 1974 up

a ok ce te eee ais ..............-45

oy 4

Crankshaft — examination and renovation ..............00 Crankshaft (main) bearings and connecting rod bearings — ete eeel a) ees e-msnirrse examinationiand renovations ..............0000005 Crankshaft rear oil seal—removal

26 er 21

Enginememovall— models iti inl Oi me tenet e surreal tesserae Faliltciagnosis engines maseasns ciate asia. tata en eeace ate Elywheel=removal @2 fin ham. Ccuweeee ae wien aes rein Flywheel ring gear — examination andrenovation ...........

3 49 12 35

.............

28

Front: coven—removal,

........

37

Lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems — description

mee

Camshaft—removalij.as.0.

ee

eerie

Cylinder bores — examination and renovation

Cylinder heads and piston crowns — decarbonisation

ies

ciscsis em Mirren

Enginelancillaries—removal

....... se

SiR Mea

«21

ee

cic noe

.ahes aie

9

Main bearings and crankshaft —removal

Oil filter—removalrand refitting

ae

ee

sei.)

820i bari inspection. 1

Oil pan=removalles

ie

6

Oil pump —HovVerNaull

tan

meen oases toes verce

meer rel sc

7

ie ear ier genet ee

niet

.........

Cylinder heads — removal with engine out ................ DOScriptioneaacrumcrmn

25. 5 5c saws

...........

Cylinder heads — dismantling of valves and springs

Cylinder heads — removal with engine invehicle

tie tee

seme

ee

oe

terete,

re mere

24

case ee

mre

ee cae

ke coneee he

nero) ardent os Meee

13

eens ae

36 lie/ 20 19 29 18 34 15 45 32 10 33

DUM Pinetree ruca ke oe

41

Valvellashi= adjustment scre citi cet-min- munca

43 42

...........+... Valve lifters — examination andrenovation scaces pen crcnicicneat a aan cere e eee mene Valveilifters'— removal) Valves and valve seats — examination and renovation ........

nicl Gut Byes ott awe 8 @ tepals fous F Gls ola whe

Specifications 302 cu in, 351 cu in or 460 cu in, eight cylinder V configuration ohv

Engine types

Engine data (302 cu in) General 8.0:1 4 in (101.6 mm) 3 in (76 mm)

Compression ratio Stroke

1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8 40 — 60 Ib/in? (2.8 — 4.2 kg/cm’)

Firing order

Oil pressure (hot)

Cylinder block 4.0004 — 4.0052 in (101.61 — 101.73 mm) 0.001 in (0.0254 mm)

Bore diameter Maximum taper Wear limit Maximum ovality Main bearing bore diameter

0.010 in (0.2540 mm) 0.015 in (0.3810 mm) 2.4412 — 2.4420 in (62.006 — 62.026

mm)

Pistons Diameter: Color code red Color code blue Color code yellow

4.0004 — 4.0052 in (101.61 — 101.73 mm) 3.9996 — 4.0002 in (101.58 — 101.60 mm) 4.0020 — 4.0008 in (101.65 — 101.62 mm)

Crankshaft Main bearing diameter Canneacting rad hearing diameter

eee eee eee eet eens .......--e

2.2482 — 2.2490 in (57.10 — 57.12 mm) 2.1228 — 2.1236 in (53.91 — 53.93 mm)

tetas

38

eee

,

UPPER

BODY

FUEL BOWL VENT VALVE

MAIN

BODY ——?>

IDLE ADJUSTMENT SCREW

Fig. 3.7. The three

main

components

of the type 4350 4-V carburetor

ACCELERATOR PUMP ASSEMBLY

THROTTLE LEVER ASSEMBLY

FAST !DLE

Fig. 3.6. General view of the type 2150 2-V carburetor

FAST IDLE SCREW

FAST IDLE LEVER

Fig. 3.8. Fast idle speed adjusting screw (2150 carburetors)

Chapter 3/Carburetion;

52

fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

DIAPHRAGM LINK

THROTTLE

DECEL

MODULATOR

SOLENOID “OFF” IDOLE SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW

FAST IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT

Fig. 3.9. TSP adjusting screw (2150 carburetors)

SCREW

FAST !DLE CAM

Fig. 3.10. Fast idle speed adjusting screw (4350 carburetors)

adjust the fast idle adjusting screw to obtain the specified rpm. 9 Set the throttle to the high step of the choke cam and allow the engine to run for 5 seconds (approximately). 10 Rotate the choke cam until the fast idle adjustment screw contacts the choke cam kick-down step. Allow the engine speed to stabilize, then recheck the fast idle rom, as described in paragraphs 8 and 9; readjust if necessary, then repeat the procedure given in the first sentence of the paragraph to ensure repeatability. 11 Allow the engine to return to the normal idle, then for automatic transmission models select Drive. 12 Where no TSP assembly is fitted, adjust the curb idle screw in or out to obtain the specified curb idle speed (photo), then proceed to paragraph

15.

13 Where a TSP assembly is fitted, adjust the curb idle screw which contacts the solenoid plunger to obtain the specified curb idle speed (the solenoid is energized and the plunger extended when the ignition

is ON). 14 Now collapse the solenoid plunger by forcing the throttle linkage against the plunger, grasping the throttle lever and solenoid housing between the thumb and index finger to alleviate movement of the solenoid assembly position. 15 Adjust the TSP-off adjusting screw to obtain the specified TS P-off

Section 10 before commencing. 1 Obtain the best possible idle speed

using the method

given in

Section 13. If the idle speed is unsteady, it should be increased ficiently for the engine to continue running.

suf-

2 Rotate the idle mixture screws within the range of the limiting caps to obtain the most satisfactory idle speed. Where the idle mixture is too rich, indicated by a ‘sooty’ exhaust smoke and engine ‘hunting’ (slowing down and running ‘lumpily’), rotate the screws clockwise. Where the idle mixture is too lean, indicated by the engine speed tending to increase and then decrease, and possibly a ‘hollow’ exhaust note, rotate the screws counter-clockwise.

4 lf the idle mixture cannot be set satisfactorily within the range of the limiting caps, pull off the caps and adjust the mixture screws but refit the caps afterwards. In case it is not possible to obtain a satisfactory setting, rotate each screw in turn, counting the exact number of turns to just seal it, then back off the same number of turns. This will give a datum point from which adjustment can commence. Both screws can be expected to be the same number of turns from the seat when correctly set, after which the limiting cap must be refitted. 5 On completion of any idle mixture adjustment, ensure that the

setting

is checked

by a Ford

dealer

or carburetor/emission

control

specialist at the earliest opportunity.

idle speed, (see Figs. 3.9 and 3.11). 16 Open the throttle slightly to allow the solenoid plunger to extend. 17 Provided that all adjustments are now satisfactory, stop the engine, then install the air cleaner and its associated vacuum lines. If the adjustments are not satisfactory, refer to paragraphs 4 in Section

10. 18 Restart the engine and if necessary run it up to normal operating temperature. With the engine running 2000 rpm (approximately) select Park (automatic transmission) or Neutral (manual transmission). Allow 5 seconds (approximately) for the speed to stabilize, then let the engine return to idle; set automatic transmission models to Drive. Recheck the curb idle speed, and if necessary readjust as described in paragraph 10 onwards. 19 Refit all vacuum lines.

14

15 Carburetor — fast idle cam clearance 1

Remove the air cleaner if the carburetor is installed on the engine.

2 Insert the unmarked shank of a twist drill 0.1 in (2.5 mm) diameter between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn wall. Note:

No 38 drill is 0.1015 in; No 39 drill is 0.0995 in. 3 With the fast idle screw held on the bottom step of the fast idle cam, against the top step, the choke lever tang and the fast idle cam arm should just be in contact. Bend the choke lever tang up or down as

necessary.

16

Carburetor — choke plate vacuum

pull-down

1

Remove the air cleaner if the carburetor is installed on the engine.

Carburetor — idle mixture adjustment

Note: Idle mixture adjustment can only be satisfactorily carried out by the artificial enrichment method using special test equipment. The

2 Remove the three screws and the ring retaining the choke thermostatic spring cover. Do not remove the screw retaining the water

procedure given in this Section allows approximate settings to be obtained should this be necessary (eg. after carburetor overhaul). Read

cover. 3

Pull

the

cover

assembly

away

and

remove

the

electric

assist

53

IDOLE SPEED ADJ. SCREW

THROTTLE LEVER

SOLENOID

THROTTLE POSIT!IONER ADJUSTMENT (EITHER END) (TSP ON’ CURB IDLE)

Fig. 3.11. TSP adjusting screw (4350 carburetors) MEASURE

BOTTEM VALVE

HOT

CLEARANCE

EDGE OF CHOKE TO WALL

OF

AIR

HORN

IDLE

COMPENSATOR

Fig. 3.12. Choke plate pull-down clearance (2150 carburetors)

CONNECT HAND VACUUM PUMP

CHOKE PULLDOWN DIAPHRAGM ADJUSTMENT SCREW

DRIEDOR

GAUGE

OF SPECIFIED

SIZE

TAPER-—LOCK

CHOKE

SHAFT SCREW

(LEFT HAND THREAD)

FAST IDLE CAM ADJUSTING

i=

SCREW

0.036 INCH WIRE GAUGE

FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENT

SCREW

&

APPLY LIGHT PRESSURE “*

TO CHOKE

LEVER

Fig. 3.13. Checking the choke plate pull-down clearance (4350 carburetors)

FUEL BOOSTER

VENTURI

BOWL VENT VALVE

SCREW

UPPER

BODY

YOKE CHOKE

PLATE SCREW

YOKE SCREW

(2 REQ’D)

\ METERING RODS

=

IFTR

Or

dp~—

GASKET

CASKET

CHOKE PLATE SUPPORT

eee CHOKE

SPRING ; p

——

CHOKE PLATE ROD

-y

BOOSTER

ASSEMBLY

eae ee aS

PLATE SHAFT

LEVER RETAINING bce

AND

WEIGHT

tna ee |o- \\

TAPE SCALE

CLUTCH PEDAL SS

CLUTCH PEDAL (EREE POSITION) SS

Ss

dD

KOY

FREE TRAVEL FROM

FREE POSITION TO POINT OF INCREASED

S

lane

es

ioe

CENTER OF EITHER SIDE OF CLUTCH PEDAL PAD MEASURE FROM THIS POINT

Fig. 5.4. Checking the clutch pedal free play

PRESSURE

88

Chapter 5/Clutch

CLUTCH STOP

CLUTCH

PEDAL

CLUTCH

ROD AND BELLCRANK

ROD

ADJUSTMENT

POINT

Fig. 5.5. Clutch adjustment point

CLUTCH

EQUALIZER

RETRACTING SPRING

Fig. 5.6. Clutch equalizer shaft and brackets

rivets and the plate for rim distortion, cracks, broken hub springs, and worn splines. The surface of the friction linings may be highly glazed, but as long as the clutch material pattern can be clearly seen this is satisfactory. Compare the amount of lining wear with a new clutch driven plate at the stores in your local repair station, and if the linings are more than three quarters worn renew the driven plate. 2 Check the machined faces of the flywheel and the pressure plate. If either is grooved it should be machined until smooth or renewed. 3 If the pressure plate is cracked or split it is essential that an exchange unit is fitted, also if the pressure of the diaphragm spring is

suspect. 4

Check

the

releace

hearinn

fnr

emoothnece

nf

anneratinn

Thera

should be reasonably 5 Check flywheel is

6

no harshness and no slackness in it. It should spin freely bearing in mind it has been pre-packed with grease.

also that the clutch pilot bearing serviceable, if not, fit a new one.

in the center

of the

Clutch — refitting

1 It is important that no oil or grease gets on the clutch driven plate friction linings, or the pressure plate and flywheel faces. It is advisable to refit the clutch with clean hands and to wipe down the pressure nlata

ana

thinahoal

farac

.mnth.4

clasn.

we

eon

ata

ee ee ee eis

Chapter 5/Clutch

89

Degins. 2 Place the clutch driven plate against the flywheel, ensuring that it is the correct way round. The flywheel side of the clutch driven plate is

marked

on the center (photo). If the driven plate is fitted the wrong

way round, it will be quite impossible to operate the clutch. 3 Place the clutch cover assembly on the flywheel (photo). Refit the bolts and spring washers, and tighten them finger tight so that the clutch driven plate is gripped but can still be moved. 4 The clutch driven plate must now be centralised so that when the engine and gearbox are mated, the gearbox input shaft splines will pass through the splines in the center of the driven plate hub. 5 Centralisation can be carried out quite easily by inserting a round bar or long screwdriver through the hole in the center of the clutch, so that the end of the bar rests in the small hole in the end of the crankshaft containing the input shaft pilot bush. Ideally an input shaft should be used. 6 Using the input shaft pilot bush as a fulcrum, moving the bar sideways or up and down will move the clutch driven plate in whichever direction is necessary to achieve centralisaion. 7 Centralisation is judged by removing the bar and moving the driven plate hub in relation to the hole in the center of the clutch cover diaphragm spring. When the hub appears exactly in the center of the hole all is correct. Alternatively the input shaft will fit the bush and center of the clutch hub exactly, obviating the need for visual align-

poe

ee

IDE |

ment (photo). 8 Tighten the clutch bolts firmly in a diagonal sequence to ensure that the cover plate is pulled down evenly and without distortion of the flange. Finally tighten the bolts down to the specified torque.

9

Refit the clutch housing, using the reverse procedure to removal

as described in Section 3.

7

Clutch release bearing — removal and refitting

1 With the gearbox and engine separated to provide access to the clutch, attention can be given to the release bearing located in the bellhousing, over the input shaft. 2 The release bearing is a relatively inexpensive but important component and unless it is nearly new it is a mistake not to renew it during an overhaul of the clutch. 3 To remove the release lever and bearing first remove the rubber dust cover from the lever aperture in the clutch housing. 4 Slide the release lever inward to release the spring retaining clips from the pivot assembly. 5 To free the bearing from the release arm simply unhook it, and then with the aid of two blocks of wood and a vise, press off the

release bearing from its hub. 6 Refitting is a straightforward reversal of these instructions.

8

Clutch linkage — removal and refitting

1.

The most likely source of wear in the clutch linkage is the equalizer

%&

6.3 Refitting the clutch assembly

shaft bushes. 2 Toremove the shaft, jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 3. Disconnect the clutch release lever retracting spring (Fig.5.6). 4 Remove the spring retainer and washer and detach the clutch release rod from the equalizer shaft. Remove the spring clip and washer from the end of the clutch 5 relay rod and detach the rod from the equalizer shaft. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the equalizer shaft mounting 6 bracket to the side of the chassis member and slide the bracket and shaft assembly off the clutch housing mounting bracket. Remove the bushes from inside the ends of the equalizer shaft and 7 fit new ones. Refit the equalizer shaft and clutch linkage using the reversal of 8 the removal procedure. 9 Finally, adjust the clutch as described in Section 2.

9

Clutch pedal — removal and refitting

From beneath the dash panel remove the spring clip and discon1 nect the operating rod from the clutch pedal lever (Fig. 5.3). Retrieve the bush from the lever.

6.7 Centralizing the clutch driven plate using the gearbox input shaft

90 ee 2

Undo

the locknut

securing

Chapter 5/Clutch eee the clutch

lever to the clutch pedal

required, there are several tests which can be made.

shaft assembly and remove the lever. 3 Remove the shoulder bolt, bush and locknut securing the master cylinder push rod to the brake pedal. 4 Pull the clutch pedal and shaft outwards and remove them together with the brake pedal and bushes.

5 With the engine in second or third gear and pulling lightly, sudden depression of the accelerator pedal may cause the engine to increase its speed without any increase in road speed. Easing off on the accelerator will then give a definite drop in engine speed without the vehicle slowing.

5 Examine the bushes and shaft 6 Grease the shaft and bushes assembly using the reverse of the 7 Finally, adjust the clutch and De

6 In extreme cases of clutch slip the engine will race under normal acceleration conditions. 7 If slip is due to oil or grease on the linings, a cure can sometimes be effected by squirting carbon tetrachloride into the clutch. The permanent cure is, of course, to renew the clutch driven plate and trace and rectify the oil leak.

10

for wear and renew if necessary. and refit the clutch and brake pedal removal procedure. pedal height as described in Section

Fault diagnosis — clutch

There are four main faults to which the clutch and release mechanism are prone. They may occur by themselves, or in conjunction with any of the other faults. They are clutch squeal, slip, spin and judder.

Clutch squeal — diagnosis and remedy 1 If, on taking up the drive or when changing gear, the clutch squeals, this is indicative of a badly worn clutch release bearing. 2 As well as regular wear due to normal use, wear of the clutch release bearing is much accentuated if the clutch is ridden or held down for long periods in gear, with the engine running. To minimise wear of this component the vehicle should always be taken out of gear at traffic lights and for similar hold-ups. 3 The clutch release bearing is not an expensive item, but is difficult

to get at.

Clutch spin — diagnosis and remedy 1 Clutch spin is a condition which occurs when there is an obstruction in the clutch, either in the gearbox input shaft or in the operating lever itself, or oil may have partially burnt off the clutch lining and have

left a resinous deposit which is causing the clutch disc to stick to the pressure plate or flywheel. 2 The reason for clutch spin is that due to any, or a combination of, the faults just listed, the clutch pressure plate is not completely freeing from the driven plate even with the clutch pedal fully depressed. 3. If clutch spin is suspected, the condition can be confirmed by extreme difficulty in engaging first gear from rest, difficulty in changing gear, and sudden take up of the clutch drive at the fully depressed end of the clutch pedal travel as the clutch is released. 4 Check the clutch linkage adjustment (Section 2). 5 If these points are checked and found to be in order then the fault lies internally in the clutch, and will be necessary to remove the clutch for examination.

Clutch slip — diagnosis and remedy 1 Clutch slip is a self-evident condition which occurs when the clutch driven plate is badly worn, oil or grease have got onto the flywheel or pressure plate faces, or the pressure plate itself is faulty. 2 The reason for clutch slip is that due to one of the faults above, there is either insufficient pressure from the pressure plate, or insufficient friction from the driven plate to ensure solid drive. 3 If small amounts of oil get onto the clutch, they will be burnt off under the heat of the clutch engagement, and in the process, gradually darken the linings. Excessive oil on the clutch will burn off leaving a carbon deposit which can cause quite bad slip, or fierceness, spin and judder. 4 If clutch slip is suspected, and confirmation of this condition is

Clutch judder — diagnosis and cure 1 Clutch judder is a self-evident condition which occurs when the gearbox or engine mountings are loose or too flexible, when there is oil on the face of the clutch friction plate, or when the clutch pressure plate has been incorrectly adjusted. 2 The reason for clutch judder is that due to one of the faults just listed, the clutch pressure plate is not freeing smoothly from the driven plate and is snatching. 3 Clutch judder normally occurs when the clutch pedal is released in first or reverse gears, and the whole car shudders as it moves backward or forward.

Chapter 6 Manual and automatic transmissions Contents

Part A: Manual transmission Fault diagnosis — manual transmission .................. Input shaft — dismantling andreassembly ................ Manual transmission — general description ............... Output shaft — dismantling and reassembly ............... Shift linkage — description and adjustment................

20 5 1 6 8

diransmiIssion|—cishiantlingmscess meri eeern mene? eenenna ee Transmission — examination and renovation............... IiranSmiSstoni-=teaSSe Moly seer en nee iiransmisston —iremovalranc retittingiees ntsc ene nena

10 19 ie 16 18

Neutral start switch — removal and refitting ............... Selectonlinkage—adjulstmentsmna suse arene ore ane Transmission tluidilevelicheckincmsnteune tenn naieneitn ann ene ciaeaeeene tatiana ene Tiransmisstoni=removalkandiretittinguac. Transmission shift linkage — removal and refitting...........

3 4 7 2

Part B: Automatic transmission Automatic transmission — general description ............. Fault diagnosis — automatic transmission ................ Intermediate band — adjustment (C4 andC6).............. susie ols tira ean oe Keck-COWMinOG!—.acjUStMent a ceearinmee. Low and reverse band — adjustment (C4 only) .............

Specifications

Manual gearbox 3 forward, 1 reverse

Number of gears MV DCLONGE ALS INT eat aes

cho,

Synchromesh Gearboxatyperdesigqnatlonvanke

Ritapes 8. Rs

heh

case le

sapere a= s see} « aoe

ones

ev leee

hv whats

o iiene es+

Helical, constant mesh

All forward gears 3.03

Gear ratios Zein avAeye 1 tial Salma

Gountengearendfloate. Reverseidlerendiloat: Pubricanttypemenewn

si ai

esis

v5.

es SS

¢ ...i.6 4a: nae bet tes el

eet wert.

Eubricantica pacity

ho, Maer

ht

ohare.

2 az.c5 > wn ea

teen oe

ee

ie

gt

0.004 — 0.018 in (0.10 —0.45 mm)

eet

0.004 — 0.018 in (0.10— 0.45 mm)

vey ty SE ee ican

eee

Ford manual transmission lube (ESW — M2C83 — B)

2 US quarts (1.89 liters)

Automatic transmission C4 (302 cu in engines)

C6 (351 and 460 cu in engines) Bubricanttyoeu

..4..ccerie

et Che te

fubricant-eapacity.(CG) 2 a4).%. Eubricanticapacity;(C4)itarcis

eek tes cae

8s wt

es

es

ieniere unrattan

Shift lever positions bothtypes

ertle eens bern

ee cee

12.25 US quarts (11.57 liters)

one

................2+-555:

10.5 US quarts (9.92 liters) BARING

Ibf ft

Torque wrench settings Manual transmission EHLNWeTe TOWNUIG) Gyevoon Glee. GeBl

Automatic transmission fluid type ESW — M2C33 — F

ob) Ach oh NENG Crit ennai

2

eel

kgf m

SO)

3.4-—4.146

14 15 11 12 13

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission

92

Cover to gearbox case Clutch nousingito gearbox(CaSes ca.) sen aen ween roren i ace t eee Clutch housing to engine Extension housing ta\qeanbOx:CaSen. yar renee ie iene eels FICE EMAC HRA Meco gine San ome core hon ude homo mem mon ox

— 1.94 1.658 5.528 -6.47

12-14 40-47

DD = D7)

5.8-6.9

30-36

4.14-—4.97

23-28 28-40 12-16 12-16 23 — 33 20-30 12-16 20-25 32 —42 55-75 80-120

— 3.870 3.18 3.9-5.5 1.658 —2.211 1.658 —2.211 3.18 -4.6 2.764-4.14 1.658-—2.211 2.77 -3.4 4.4-5.8 7.6-—10.2 11.6 — 16.60

Automatic transmission Converter to flywheel Converter housing to transmissin case Oillsump tomtransmiuSSioniCaSe, eke ceca eek verre rene temas ernie arcs ConvertencovertoiconverterNOuUSING) “42.6. sae e ce ela oer =. FINE OUCIAMNSHOM co cutoonsome oboe cappaoopmogco ode

Converter drain plug (if fitted) Downshift lever to shaft Filler tube to engine FitletatubestO: Summ0Grcnen sc eewrsun nate ers tain sper shisha reton weer ohatredauam enCRN Nel Neutral switch to case Oil cooler line connections

3.04 — 3.7

42-50

Part A: Manual transmission

1.

Manual transmission — general description

The manual transmission fitted as standard to all Econoline models is equipped with three forward gears and one reverse. All forward gears are engaged through synchro-hubs and rings to obtain smooth, silent gearchanges. All forward gears on the mainshaft and input shaft are in constant mesh with their corresponding gears on the countershaft gear cluster and are helically cut to achieve quiet running. The reverse gear has straight-cut gear teeth and drives the first gear through an interposed sliding idler gear. The gears are engaged inside the box by means of two sliding forks. The gears are selected by a steering column mounted shift lever connected by rods and levers to the transmission. Where close tolerances and limits are required during assembly of the transmission, selective thrust washers and snap-rings are used to eliminate excessive endfloat or backlash. This eliminates the need for using matched assemblies.

2

to removal. Note: It may be necessary to rotate the engine to align the clutch disc and input shaft splines.

3

Transmission — dismantling

1

Place the complete unit on a firm bench or table and ensure that

you have the following tools available, in addition to the normal range of wrenches etc.

a)

Transmission — removal and refitting

1 If the transmission alone is to be removed from the vehicle, it can be taken out from below leaving the engine in position. It will mean that a considerable amount of working room is required beneath the vehicle, and ideally ramps or an inspection pit should be used. However, provided that suitable jacks and supports are available, the task can be accomplished without the need for sophisticated equip-

ment. 2 Disconnect the battery ground lead. 3 Remove the lower extension-to-gearbox securing bolt and drain the transmission oil into a suitable container. 4 Disconnect the front of the driveshaft from the rear of the transmission, (see Chapter 7) and tie the shaft out the way. 5 Disconnect the speedometer drive cable from the transmission extension housing. 6 Remove the spring retaining rings and disconnect the two operating rods from the gearshift levers on the side of the transmission. 7 Disconnect the lead from the transmission back-up light switch (if

fitted). 8 Place a jack under the transmission some nylon rope or similar.

9

transmission assembly to the ground. 13 When refitting the transmission, ensure that the clutch release lever and bearing are correctly located in the clutch housing. 14 Apply a smear of light grease on the transmission input shaft splines and then install the transmission using the reverse procedure

and secure it to the jack with

Raise the transmission slightly and remove the four bolts securing

the rear support crossmember

to the chassis side members.

Remove

the bolt securing the extension housing to the crossmember (Fig. 6.1). 10 Lower the transmission assembly just sufficiently to enable the four transmission-to-clutch housing bolts to be removed. 11 Wedge blocks of wood between the bottom of the engine and crossmember to prevent the engine dropping when the transmission is removed. 12 Carefully pull the transmission and supporting jack rearwards until the input shaft is clear of the clutch housing and then lower the

Good quality snap-ring pliers, tracting.

2 pairs — 1 expanding and 7 con-

b)

Copper-headed hammer, at least 2 |b.

c) d)

Selection of steel and brass drifts. Small containers.

e)

Engineer's vise mounted on firm bench.

f)

Selection of steel tubing.

2 Any attempt to dismantle the transmission without the foregoing is not impossible, but will certainly be very difficult and inconvenient. 3 Read the whole of this Section before starting work. 4 Undo the securing screws and remove the cover plate and gasket from the top of the casing. Drain out any oil remaining in the casing. 5 Remove the spring and detent plug from the aperture in the top left-hand side of the casing (see Fig. 6.2). 6 Undo the retaining bolts and withdraw the extension housing from the rear of the casing (see Fig. 6.3). Remove the gasket. 7 Undo the retaining bolts and remove the bearing retainer and gasket from the front of the casing. 8 Remove the oil filler plug from the side of the casing. Using a suitably sized drift through the plug aperture, drive out the roll pin that secures the countershaft to the casing (see Fig. 6.4). 9 Using a soft alloy drift, carefully tap the countershaft out of the rear of the casing, while supporting the countershaft gear cluster with one hand. 10 When the shaft is removed, lower the countershaft gear cluster and thrust washers to the bottom of the casing. 11 Remove the snap-ring securing the speedometer drivegear to the output (rear) shaft. Slide the gear off the end of the shaft and remove the gear locking ball from the shaft. 12 Remove the snap-ring securing the rear bearing to the output bearing and, using two screwdrivers, placed between the outer snap-

ring and casing, carefully lever the bearing out of the casing and slide it off the end of the output shaft. Note: If difficulty is experienced in removing the bearing a special tool

(No. T63P-7025-A) is available from your Ford dealer (Fig. 6.5). 13

Place the two shift levers on the side of the casing in the neutral

(center) position.

93 CROSSMEMBER POSITION FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION SHOWN (USE LONG SLOTS) REVERSE POSITION OF CROSSMEMBER FOR AUTOMATIC

TRANSMISSION

(USE SHORT

Can

SLOTS)

SCREW

MACHINED

INSULATOR AND RETAINER ASSEMBLY

SPRING «

ef

2ND

INTERLOCK

SURFACE AND

3RD

SHIFT

EXPANSION

ae PLUG

FORK PLUG

fss LOCKWASHER

DETENT

®

SPRING

PLUG BOLT

1ST AND REVERSE SHIFT FORK 2ND AND 3RD SHIFT RAIL

Fig.

6.1.

Transmission

crossmember

support

and

1ST

AND SHIFT

REVERSE RAIL

Fig. 6.2. Gear shift selector forks and rails

(COUNTERSHAFT ie ROLL PIN |

FRONT BEARING RETAINER

~=GASKET——>

GASKET COUNTERSHAFT GEAR

ran

-y) plu”

Fig. 6.4.

Driving the roll pin out of the countershaft

Fig. 6.3. Gearbox case and associated components

Clamp

Block

SNAP

RING GROOVE

Tool—T63P-7025-A

Remover

————— a

Clamp

Block

:

Pesae

on Remever

{; SNAP

RING

|fe J

Fig. 6.5. Using the special tool to remove and replace the output shaft bearing

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission

94

SHAFT ANDLEVER

EOGK>

WASHER

Q-

NUT

Fig. 6.7. Removing the shift levers

Fig. 6.6. Turning the 2nd/3rd gear shift rail thru 90° INPUT SHAFT

FRONT

SNAP RINGS

L

ROLLER

AND GEAR

BEARING

BLOCKING

BEARINGS

RING

Fig. 6.8. Input shaft and bearings

SNAP

THRUST

RING

WASHER 1ST

|SYNCHRONIZER

SNAP

RING REAR

GEAR f OUTPUT

SHAFT

BEARING \

SNAP

RINGS

OcC BLOCKING RINGS

SNAP 2ND

RING

LOCK

BLOCKING RING

SPEEDOMETER

DRIVE REVERSE

GEAR

BALL

GEAR

AND

se GEAR

SLEEVE

Fig. 6.9. Exploded view of the output shaft assembly

14 Remove the set screw securing the 1st/reverse shift fork to the shift rail. Slide the rail out the rear of the casing. 5 Slide the 1st/reverse synchro-hub forward as far as possible, otate the shift fork upward and lift it out of the casing. 16 Push the 2nd/3rd gear shift fork rearward to the 2nd gear position tO gain access to the retaining screw and remove it. Using a suitable pair of pliers or grips, rotate the shift rail 90° (as shown in Fig. 6.6). 17 Lift the interlock plug (Fig. 6.2) out of the casing using a magnet. 18 Carefully tap the rear end of the 2nd/3rd gear shift rail to drive out the expansion plug from the front of the casing. Withdraw the shift rail. 19 Remove the remaining detent plug and spring from the bore in the casing. 20 Pull the input shaft and bearing from the front of the casing. 21 Rotate the 2nc, 3rd gear shift fork upward and lift it from the case. 22 Carefully lift the output shaft and gears out through the top of the casing.

23 Slide the reverse gear shaft out of the casing reverse idler gear assembly and thrust washers.

24 Lift out the countershaft gear cluster and retrieve the thrust washers and any of the needle bearings that may have fallen out. Note that there are 25 needle bearings in each end of the shaft. 25 If required the shift lever can be removed from the side of the casing by undoing the securing nuts and removing the levers and

washers from the shafts. Slide the shafts out of the casing and discard the O-ring seals (Fig. 6.7). 26 The gearbox is now stripped right out and must be thoroughly cleaned. If there is any quantity of metal chips and fragments in the bottom of the casing it is obvious that several items will be found to be badly worn. The component parts of the gearbox and countershaft should be examined for wear. The input and output shaft assemblies should be broken down further as described in the following Sections.

4

and

lift out the

Transmission — examination and renovation

eae

1

Carefully

clean

and

then

examine

all the

component

parts

for

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission g ENN Are ED ee oe gt ag eect ean e ee general wear, distortion, slackness of fit, and damage to machined faces and threads. 2 Examine the gearwheels for excessive wear and chipping of the teeth. Renew them as necessary. 3 Examine the countershaft for signs of wear, where the countershaft gear cluster roller bearings bear. If a small ridge can be

felt at either end of the shaft it will be necessary to renew it. 4 The three synchro blocking rings are bound to be badly worn and it is false ecomony not to renew them. New rings will improve the smoothness and speed of the shift considerably. 5 The needle roller bearings located between the nose of the output shaft and the annulus in the rear of the input shaft are also liable to wear, and should be renewed as a matter of course. 6 Examine the condition of the two ball bearing assemblies, one on the input shaft and one on the output. Check them for noisy operation, looseness betweeen the inner and outer races, and for general wear. Normally they should be renewed on a gearbox that is being rebuilt. 7 \f either of the synchro-hubs are worn it will be necessary to buy a complete assembly as the parts are not sold individually. 8 If the bush bearing in the extension is badly worn it is best to take the extension to your local Ford repair station to have the bearing pulled out and a new one fitted. 9 The oil seals in the extension housing, input shaft bearing retainer and selector levers should be renewed as a matter of course. Drive out the old seals with the aid of a drift or broad screwdriver. It will be found that the seals come out quite easily. 10 With a piece of wood to spread the load evenly, carefully tap new seals into place ensuring that they enter their housings squarely. 11 The only point on the output shaft that is likely to be worn is the nose where it enters the input shaft. However, examine it thoroughly for any signs of scoring, picking up, or flats, and if damage is apparent, renew it.

5

Input shaft — dismantling and reassembly

1. The only reason for dismantling the input shaft is to fit a new ball bearing assembly, or, if the input shaft is being renewed and the old bearing is in excellent condition, the fitting of a new shaft to an old bearing. 2 With a pair of expanding snap-ring pliers remove the small snapring which secures the bearing to the input shaft. 3 With a soft-headed hammer gently tap the bearing forward and then remove it from the shaft. 4 When fitting the new bearing ensure that the groove cut in the outer periphery faces away from the gear. If the bearing is fitted the

ee)

95

wrong way round it will not be possible to fit the large snap-ring which retains the bearing in the housing. 5 Using the jaws of a vise as a support behind the bearing tap the bearing squarely into place by hitting the rear of the input shaft with a plastic or hide faced hammer. 6 Finally refit the snap-ring

which

holds the bearing to the input

shaft.

6

Output shaft — dismantling and reassembly

1 The output shaft has to be dismantled before some of the synchrorings can be inspected. For dismantling it is best to mount the plain section of the shaft in a vise. 2 As each component is removed from the shaft make a careful note of its position and then place it on a clean sheet of paper in the order of removal. 3 Referring to Fig. 6.9, remove the snap-ring from the front of the output shaft and slide the blocker ring (if not already removed), the synchronizer hub and the 2nd gear off the shaft.

4

Remove

the next snap-ring and thrust washer and slide the 1st

gear and blocking ring off the shaft. 5 Remove the final snap-ring and press the shaft out of the reverse gear and synchronizer sleeve assembly (see Fig. 6.10). Caution: Do not attempt to remove the 1st gear synchronizer hub from the shaft by trying to hammer it or prying it off with levers as damage will probably result. 6 If it is necessary to dismantle the synchro-hubs and sleeves, first refer to Figs. 6.11 and 6.12 and etch alignment marks on each com-

ponent. 7 Push the sleeves off the hubs and remove the inserts and insert springs, making a careful note which way round they are fitted. 8 Do not mix the 1st/reverse synchro-hub components with those from the 2nd/3rd synchro-hub assembly. 9 To assemble a synchro-hub, first position the sleeve on the hub making sure the etched marks line up. 10 Fit the three inserts and retain in position with the springs. Make sure that the small end of the inserts face the inside of the hub. 11 In the case of the 1st/reverse gear synchro assembly ensure the inserts are fully retained by the springs as shown in Fig. 6.13. 12 To reassemble the gears and synchro-hubs onto the output shaft, first lubricate the shaft and splines with clean transmission oil. 13 Carefully press the reverse gear and synchronizer assembly onto the shaft as shown in Fig. 6.10. Secure the gear in place with the snap-ring. 14 Place a blocking ring on the tapered surface of the 1st gear.

“mxt-— PRESS RAM

OUTPUT

SYNCHRONIZER

SYNCHRONIZER

REMOVAL

ee

SHAFT

SYNCHRONIZER HUB

et STALLATION

Fig. 6.10. Removing and installing the 1st/reverse gear synchronizer hub

96

vi,

FRONT

ay INSERT SPRING

BLOCKING

ALIGNMENT MARKS

|NSERTS

RING

SLEEVE AND REVERSE GEAR Fig. 6.11. 1st/reverse gear synchronizer components

INSERT SPRING

HUB

AND

SLEEVE

ALIGNMENT

MARKS

toa

BLOCKING

4

BLOCKING RING

INSERTS

INSERT

SLEEVE

RING

SPRING

Fig. 6.12. 2nd/3rd gear synchronizer components

INSERT

FRONT

REAR

Fig. 6.13. Correct installation of 1st/reverse synchronizer insert springs

NEEDLE REVERSE

IDLER

THRUST WASHER

GEAR

BEARINGS

(25

EACH

END)

THRUST

WASHER

ROLL

PIN

COUNTER SHAFT

ae

REVERSE IDLER GEAR SHAFT

Fig. 6.14. Reverse idler gear and shaft

= BEARING RETAINER

REVERSE IDLER GEAR

ROLL

Q

if;

h BEARING

PIN

RETAINER

Fig. 6.15. Countershaft gear assembly

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission 15

Slide the

1st gear onto the ouput

shaft with the blocking ring

facing toward the rear of the shaft. Rotate the gear as necessary to engage the three notches in the blocking ring with synchronizer inserts.

16 Secure the 1st gear in position with the thrust washer and snap-

ring 17 Fit a blocking ring onto the tapered surface of the 2nd gear. Slide the 2nd gear and ring onto the shaft ensuring that the tapered side of the gear faces toward the front of the shaft.

18 Finally, slide the 2nd/3rd gear synchronizer onto the end of the shaft and secure it in place with the snap-ring. 19

The output shaft is now completely reassembled.

co 7

a

ee

a

en

Se

os

ee

Transmission — reassembly

mee a a a ee Se eee lee aeeee el

97

the rear of the casing. 20 Push the rail (shaft) inward until the center notch (neutral) is in line with the detent bore. 21 Secure the fork to the shaft with the set screw. 22 Fit anew shift rail expansion plug in the front of the casing. 23 Place the casing in a vertical position and using a screwdriver through the oil filler hole, align the bore of the countershaft gear and the thrust washers with the bores in the casing. 24 Insert the countershaft from the rear of the casing and gently tap it through the gear cluster, driving out the dummy shaft. 25 Ifadummy shaft was not used, insert the countershaft in the same way, but take great care not to dislodge any of the needle roller bearings or thrust washers. 26 Position the shaft so that the hole lines up with the hole in the casing and when the shaft is fully home drive in a new roll pin. 27 Check that the countershaft gears rotate smoothly with no hars-

1 Insert the reverse gear idler shaft into the rear of the transmission case. Hold the spacer and reverse gear in position (helical gear teeth facing the front of the casing) and slide the shaft fully home. 2 Smear some grease into each end of the countershaft gear cluster and carefully insert the roller bearings. Ideally a dummy shaft of the

hness that might indicate dislodged needle bearings. 28 Fit a new front bearing retainer snap-ring onto the input shaft.

same outside dimensions as the countershaft but shorter, should be placed inside the countershaft gear cluster to hold the bearings in

31 Fit the speedometer drive gear locking ball into the hole in the Output shaft, hold the ball in position and slide the drivegear over it. Secure with a snap-ring. 32 Place a new gasket over the rear end of the transmission casing and install the rear extension housing. 33 Apply sealer to the extension housing retaining bolts and tighten to the specified torque wrench setting. 34 Rotate the input shaft by hand and check that all gears can be selected in turn and both shafts rotate smoothly. 35 Fit the remaining detent plug and spring in the bore in the top of the casing. 36 Coat a new cover gasket with sealant, fit the top cover and tighten the retaining bolts. 37 Temporarily refit the oil filler plug. 38 Refit the transmission to the engine as described in Section 2. Refill it with the correct grade and quantity of transmission oil and tighten the plug.

place.

3

Stick the thrust washer

onto each end of the countershaft gear

cluster with grease (see Fig. 6.15). 4

Carefully

place the countergear

assembly

in the bottom

of the

casing but do not fit the countershaft at this stage. 5 Install the ouptut shaft and gear cluster into the casing through the top access hole. 6 Fit a new snap-ring in the groove around the rear bearing assembly and carefully drive the bearing along the output shaft until it enters the aperture in the rear of the casing. Note that the groove in the bearing must be positioned toward the rear of the casing. 7 ‘Install a new bearing retainer snap-ring on the ouptut shaft. 8 Check that the roller bearings are correctly located in the end of the input shaft with grease. 9 Insert the input shaft, 3rd gear and synchro-ring assembly through the front of the casing, making sure the end of the ouptut shaft is correctly located in the roller bearing recess of the input shaft. 10

Fit a new snap-ring in the front bearing groove and tap the bearing

29 Install the input shaft retainer using a new gasket. 30 Apply gasket sealer to the bearing retainer bolts and torque them up to the figure given in the Specifications.

8

Gearshift linkage — description and adjustment

along the input shaft until it enters the aperture in the casing. Carefully tap the bearing fully home.

11 Position the 2nd/3rd gear shift fork on the 2nd/3rd gear synchrohub. 12 Refer back to Fig. 6.2 and fit the lower spring and detent plug into the casing. 13 Push the 2nd/3rd gear synchro-hub as far as possible toward the rear of the casing (2nd gear position). 14 Align the hole in the shift fork with the casing and push the

2nd/3rd gear shift rail in from the front of the casing. It will be necessary to push the detent plug downward to enable the shaft to enter the bore. 15

Push the shaft into the casing until the detent plug engages in the

forward notch (2nd gear position). 16 Secure the fork to the shaft with the set screw and then push the synchro unit forward to the neutral position. 17 Fit the interlock plug into the bore in the side of the casing so that

it is resting on top of the shift rail. 18 Push the 1st/reverse gear and synchro unit fully forward to the 1st gear position. 19 Fit the 1st/reverse shift fork in the synchro unit groove, rotate the fork into the correct position and slide the 1st/reverse shift rail in from

1. The gearshift linkage consists of a steering column mounted lever and down tube connected to two operating rods attached to the shift selector levers on the left-hand side of the transmission (see Fig. 6.16). 2 The most likely point of wear in the linkage is the insulator bushes on the ends of the down tube levers. 3 These can be refitted by removing the spring retaining rings and withdrawing the ends of the control rods from the insulators. 4 Renew the insulators and push the ends of the rods into the insulators until they just snap in. Refit the spring retaining clips.

5 To adjust the shift linkage, first set the shift lever to the neutral position and fit a 2 in (5 mm) piece of rod through the column levers as shown in Fig.6.18. 6 Referring to Fig.6.16, slacken nuts A and B and set the transmission shift levers in the neutral position. 7 Tighten nuts A and B to 12 — 18 lIbf ft (1.65 — 2.48 kgf m) taking care to prevent any movement between the stud and shift rod. 8 Remove the piece of rod from the column levers and check the linkage for correct operation. Note: On some models, special grommets are used between the shift control rod ends and the down tube levers and a special tool is needed to remove and refit them. Refer to Section 13, Part B of this Chapter.

Part B: Automatic transmission b)

ee

10

Automatic transmission — general description

Sea

ZS

nd

ee

ee

l 1. The automatic transmission takes the place of the conventiona clutch and gearbox, and comprises the following two main assemblies:

a)

A

three

element

torque

hydrokinetic ge

ee

et

converter

ere ee

ee ee

coupling,

A torque/speed responsive and hydraulically operated epicyclic gearbox comprising a planetary gearset providing three forward ratios and one reverse ratio.

Due to the complexity of the automatic transmission unit, if perfor2 mance is not up to standard, or overhaul is necessary, it is imperative that this be left to the local Ford repair station who will have the

ehanalleoiimmaont

far fault diacnosic and rectitication.. ne

content or

RETAINING 1/4" GAUGE

PIN

INSULATOR

&—sz5)

NOTE: ALWAYS USE NEW RETAINING RINGS AND INSULATORS WHEN MAKING ATTACHMENTS.

es

S

DAUB ROD GREASE

ENDS

HI-INTERMEDIATE ROD

GROMMET LO-REVERSE ROD

DO NOT PUSH RODS INTO BEYOND SNAP-IN POINT.

INSULATOR

Fig. 6.16. Gearshift linkage

RETAINING BOLT

UPPER LEVER

SHIFT

BUSHING

CeO

OVER

SHIFT TUBE

SUEEVE

uO

CROSS-OVER PIN

LEVER

BUSHING SPRING WASHER

.

S— SHIFT LEVER RETAINING BRACKET

i.

Fig. 6.17. Gearshift downtube and levers

WITH

RING

99 STEERING COLUMN

SHIFT LEVERS

1/4"’ Gouge Pin Fig. 6.18. Method of aligning the shift levers prior to adjusting the linkage

CONVERTER

HOUSING

FRONT

PUMP

CASE STATOR

SUPPORT

INTERMEDIATE BAND

REVERSE

RING GEAR

LOW-REVERSE DRUM

FORWARD

GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR SLEEVE

GOVERNOR DISTRIBUTOR

LOW REVERSE BAND

CLUTCH

OUT PUT SHAFT

ONE-WAY CLUTCH

HUB AND RING GEAR

\ Y

PARK FRONT

EVERSE

PLANET

TOGGLE

LEVER

PLANET

LOW-REVERSE CONVERTER ONE-WAY CLUTCH

INPUT

FORWARD

\A

SHAFT

CONTROL

y REVERSE-HIGH CONTROL

STATOR

TURBINE

VALVE

CLUTCH

BODY

ee Fig. 6.19. Sectional view of type C4 automatic transmission

CLUTCH

LEVERS

CARRIER

CARRIER

SERVO

PISTON

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission

100

INTERMEDIATE

SUPPORT

ae

FRONT PUMP

BAND

Pon

ive

REVERSE

DISTRIBUTOR cpu INE SEAL GOVERNOR

RING GEAR

SHELL

CASE

EXTENSION at HOUSING

GOVERNOR LOW- REVERSE CLUTCH — DISTRIBUTOR SLEEVE nee

FORWARD CLUTCH HUB TNO RINGGE AR

per OUTPUT AN SHAFT

EXTENSION HOUSING

SPEEDOMETER ‘de DRIVE GEAR

REVERSE PLANET CARRIER

FORWARD CLUTCH CONVERTAX ONE-WAY CLUTCH RNRINE

CONTROL

IMPELLER CONTROL

REVERSE-HIGH VALVE

LEVERS

CLUTCH

BODY

Fig. 6.20. Sectional view of type C6 automatic transmission po CONVERTOR

\

ATTACHING

CONVERTOR

Fig. 6.21. Location

DRAIN

NUT™

COOLER

OIL FILLER TUBE

LINES

PLUG

of converter attaching

nuts and drain plug

PILOT HOLE

Fig. 6.22. Transmission filler tube and oil cooler lines

the following Sections is therefore confined to supplying general information and any service information and instruction that can be used by the owner. 3 The automatic transmission fitted to the Econoline models is manufactured by Ford and is either the C4 type for 302 cu in engines or the C6 type for the 351 and 460 cu in engines. Both types of transmission are very similar, but where there are major differences,

these are described under a separate Section heading. A transmission oil cooler is fitted as standard and ensures cooler operation of the transmission under trailer towing conditions. A vacuum connection to the inlet manifold provides smoother and more consistent downshifts

Fig. 6.23. Flywheel pilot hole

a repair station it must not be longer than 20 miles (32 km) away and the speed should not exceed 30 mph (48-28 kph). Towing is permitted provided the transmission is not damaged and that the oil level is correct. Shift the selector lever to the ‘N’ position. If there are noises emitting from the transmission, or the towing distance is greater than 20 miles (32 km), the propeller shaft should be disconnected and completely removed and the end of the transmission sealed to prevent oil loss and dirt ingress. As an alternative, the vehicle can be suspended and towed with the rear wheels off the ground.

Tow

starting:

Due

to the design

characteristics

of the automatic

transmission it is not possible to tow start the vehicle.

under load than is the case with units not incorporating this facility.

Special towing or recovery information

11

Transmission — fluid level checking

1

Before attempting to check the fluid level, the fluid must be at its

Towing: If a caravan, boat or trailer is being towed, always select the ‘L’ position before ascending or descending steep hills to stop overheating of the special transmission fluid, and to receive benefit from engine braking. Recovery towing: Should it be necessary to have the vehicle towed to

normal

operating temperature

(approximately

best accomplished by driving the vehicle under normal running conditions.

65°C/150°F).

for about

This is

5 miles (8 km)

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission

101

2 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake and depress the brake pedal.

3. Allow the engine to idle, then move the selector through all the positions three times. 4 Select ‘P’ and wait for 1 to 2 minutes with the engine still idling. 5 Now withdraw the dipstick (engine still idling), wipe it clean witha lint-free cloth, refit it and withdraw it again. Note the oil level and, if necessary, top-up to maintain

between

the ‘MAX’

and ‘MIN’ dipstick

markings. Only fluid meeting the stated specification should be used: this is applied through the dipstick tube (photo). a

A

a

a

a cee

12 Transmission — removal and refitting ee a EE eee

ee ee

1 If possible, raise the vehicle on a hoist or place it over an inspection pit. Alternatively, it will be necessary to jack-up the vehicle to

obtain the maximum possible amount of working room underneath. 2 Place a large drain pan beneath the transmission surnp (oil pan) then, working from the rear, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Remove all the bolts except the two front ones to drain as much fluid as possible, then temporarily refit two bolts at the rear to hold it in place. 3 Remove the torque converter drain plug access cover and adapter

EY

a

11.5 Location of automatic transmission dipstick and filler tube

plate bolts from the lower end of the converter housing. 4 Remove the flywheel-to-converter attaching nuts, cranking the engine as necessary to gain access by means of a spanner on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt. Caution: Do not rotate the engine backwards. 5 Rotate the engine until the converter drain plug is accessible, then remove the plug, catching the fluid in the drain pan. Fit and tighten the drain plug afterwards. 6 Remove the propeller shaft, referring to Chapter 7, as necessary. Place a polythene bag over the end of the transmission to prevent dirt from entering. 7 Detach the speedometer cable from the extension housing (photo). 8 Disconnect the shift rod at the transmission manual lever and the kickdown rod at the transmission downshift lever (photo). 9 Remove the starter motor retaining bolts and position the motor out of the way.

10 11

Disconnect the starter inhibitor (neutral start) switch leads. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the vacuum unit.

12 Position a trolley jack beneath the transmission and raise it so that it just takes the transmission weight. 13 Remove the bolt and nut securing the rear mount to the crossmember. 14 Remove the four bolts securing the crossmember to the chassis members. Raise the transmission slightly on the jack and remove the crossmember. 15 Disconnect the two inlet pipe flanges from the exhaust manifolds. 16 Support the rear of the engine using a jack or suitable blocks of wood. 17 Disconnect the oil cooler lines at the transmission and plug them to prevent dirt from entering (Fig. 6.22). 18 Remove the lower converter housing-to-engine bolts, and the transmission filler tube. 19 Ensure that the transmission is securely mounted on the trolley jack, then remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts. 20 Carefully move the transmission rearwards and downwards, and away from the vehicle.

21 Refitting the transmission is essentially the reverse of the removal procedure, but the following points should be noted: a) b)

c)

d)

Rotate the converter to align the bolt drive lugs and drain plug with their holes in the flywheel. Do not allow the transmission to take a ‘nose-down’ attitude as the converter will move forward and disengage from the pump gear. When installing the three flywheel-to-converter bolts position the flywheel so that the pilot hole is in the six o'clock position (see Fig. 6.23). First install one bolt through the pilot hole and torque tighten it, followed by the two remaining bolts. Do not attempt to install it in any other way. Adjust the kickdown rod and selector linkage as necessary

(see Sections 15 and 16). e)

When

the vehicle has been lowered to the ground, add suf-

12.7 Speedometer drive clamp and bolt. Removing the kickdown rod from ...

102 STOP PIN

ROD GROMMET |

LEVER Tool

Too! — T67P-7341-A

— T67P-7341-A

GROMMET INSTALLATION

ROD REMOVAL

Tool

—

T67P-7341-A

GROMMET

ROD

INSTALLATION

Fig. 6.24. Special tool used for renewing the shift lever grommets RETAINER (INSTALL WITH CONCAVE SIDE AGAINST LEVER)

NEUTRAL START SWITCH

\®

5

}

(2

4

Gauge Pin

GROMMET

SELECTOR LEVER

A (o/

SHIFT LEVER

7. / ] j 4

(No. 43 Drill)

STUD

SHIFT ROD VIEW Z

MANUAL

TRANSMISSION

“® Fig. 6.25. Neutral start switch adjustment

TORQUE

SHIFT ROD

WRENCH

Fig. 6.27. Adjusting the intermediate transmission band

Fig. 6.28. Adjusting the low/reverse band (C4 transmission only)

are

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission eee ee ee

ficient fluid to bring the level up to the ‘MAX’ mark on the dipstick with the engine not running. Having done this, check and top-up the fluid level, as described in the previous Section.

position by moving the lever rearward as far as possible and then forward two ‘clicks’. 4 Hold the shift rod and lever stationary and tighten the securing nut to a torque wrench setting of 12 — 18 Ibf ft (1.6 — 2.5 kgf m). 5 Remove the weight from the shift lever and check the operation of all gear positions.

a ea a Di es 13 Transmission shift linkage — removal and refitting eeI a 1 The shift linkage rod is attached to the steering column

lever by means of a special oil inpregnated grommet and the removal and refitting of this type of grommet requires the use of Ford special tool

No. T67P-7341-A (see Fig. 6.24).

2 To remove the rod from the grommet, place the lower jaw of the tool between the lever and the rod. Position the stop pin against the end of the control rod and force the rod out of the grommet. 3 Remove the grommet from the lever by cutting off the largest shoulder with a sharp knife. 4 Adjust the stop pin on the tool to + in (12 mm) and coat the outside of a new grommet with lubricant. 5 Fit the new grommet on the stop pin and force it into the lever hole. Rotate the grommet to ensure it is correctly seated. 6 Readjust the stop pin on the tool to the height shown in Fig. 6.24. 7 Position the rod on the tool and force the end of the rod into the grommet until the groove in the rod seats on the inner retaining lip of the grommet. 8 Adjust the selector linkage as described in Section 15.

14

Neutral start switch — removal and refitting

1. Chock the front wheels, jack-up the rear of the vehicle and support on firmly based axle stands.

2 Working under the vehicle, disconnect the downshift linkage rod from the transmission downshift lever. 3. Apply a little penetrating oil to the downshift lever shaft and nut and allow to soak for a few minutes. 4 Undo and remove the transmission downshift outer lever retaining nut. Lift away the lever. 5 Undo and remove the two neutral start switch securing bolts. 6 Disconnect the multi-wire connector from the neutral switch and lift away the switch. 7 To refit the switch, place on the transmission unit and lightly secure with the two bolts. 8 Shift the selector lever to the ‘N’ (neutral) position. Rotate the switch and fit a No. 43 drill into the gauge pin hole. It must be inserted a full 0.48 in (12.03 mm) into the three holes of the switch. Tighten the switch securing bolts fully and remove the drill. 9 Refitting is now the reverse sequence to removal. Check that the engine only starts with the selector lever in the ‘N’ position and ‘P’ positions.

ee e e a 15 Selector linkage — adjustment Ee ee ee ee a

16

Kick-down rod — adjustment

1 Disconnect the downshift rod return spring and hold the throttle shaft lever in the wide open position. 2 Hold the downshift rod against the through detent stop. 3 Adjust the downshift screw so as to provide a clearance of 0.060 in (1.52 mm) between the screw tip and the throttle shaft lever tab. 4 Reconnect the downshift lever spring.

17

Intermediate band (C4 and C6) — adjustment

The intermediate or front band is used to hold the sun gear stationary so as to give the second gear ratio. If it is not correctly

adjusted there will be noticeable slip during first to second gearchange or from third to second gearchange. The first symptoms

of these con-

ditions will be a very sluggish gearchange instead of the usual crisp action. To adjust the intermediate band, undo and remove the adjustment screw locknut located on the left-hand side of the transmission case. Tighten the adjusting screw using a torque wrench set to 10 Ibf ft (1.4

kgf m) and then slacken off the adjustment screw 14 turns. A new locknut should be fitted and tightened to a torque wrench setting of 35 — 45 Ibf ft (4.8 — 6.22 kgf m).

18

Low and reverse band (C4 only) — adjustment

The low and reverse band or rear band is in action when ‘L’ or ‘R’ position of the selector lever is obtained to hold the low and reverse

pinion carrier stationary. If it is not correctly adjusted there will be a noticeable malfunction of the automatic transmission unit, whereby there will be no drive with the selector lever in the ‘R’ position, also associated with no engine braking on first gear when the selector lever is in the ‘L’ position. To adjust the rear band undo and remove the adjusting screw

locknut located on the right-hand side of the transmission case. Tighten the adjusting screw using a torque wrench set to 10 Ibf ft (1.4 kgf m) and then slacken off the adjustment screw exactly three turns. A new locknut should be fitted and tightened to a torque wrench

setting of 35 — 45 Ibf ft (4.8 — 6.22 kgf m) — Fig. 6.28.

Se 19

ee

With the engine stopped, place the transmission shift lever in the 1 ‘D’ (Drive) position and hold it against the ‘D’ stop by tying an eight pound weight to the end of the lever. Slacken the shift rod retaining nut on the side of the transmission 2

(point ‘A’ Fig. 6.26). 3.

103

Place the selector lever on the side of the transmission

Fault diagnosis — automatic transmission

As has been mentioned elsewhere in this Chapter, no service repair work should be considered by anyone without the specialist knowledge and equipment required to undertake this work. This is also relevant to fault diagnosis. If a fault is evident carry out the various adjustments previously described and if the fault still exists consult the local repair station or specialist.

in the ‘D’

nn nn ————

20

Fault diagnosis — manual gearbox

nnneee

Symptom

Reason/s

Weak or ineffective synchromesh

Synchronising

EEEES EEE SEES

Remedy

cee EEE SIEsISISSS SSS SSS

cones

worn,

split or damaged

and overhaul

Dismantle and overhaul synchro-rings.

Synchro-ring worn, or damaged

Jumps out of gear

Dismantle

transmission.

Fit new

gear wheels and synchronising cones.

Broken gearchange fork rod detent Transmission coupling dogs badly worn Selector fork rod groove badly worn

spring

transmission.

Fit new

Dismantle and renew spring. Dismantle transmission. Fit new coupling dogs. Fit new selector fork rod.

104 Excessive noise

Chapter 6/Manual and automatic transmission Incorrect grade of oil in transmission or oil level too low Bush or needle roller bearings worn or damaged Gear teeth excessively worn or damaged

Countershaft Excessive difficulty in engaging gear

thrust

washers

excessive end play Clutch adjustment incorrect

worn

allowing

Drain, refill or top-up transmission with correct grade of oil. Dismantle and overhaul transmission. Renew bearings. Dismantle, overhaul transmission. Renew gear wheels. Dismantle and overhaul transmission. Renew thrust washers. Adjust clutch.

Chapter 7 Driveshaft Contents

Drivesnartcobalances ws. c.teeeeu le. ek ak) icin s UM toe ove Driveshaft center support bearing—renewal .............. Driveshaft (one-piece type) — removal and refitting ..........

i 4 2

Driveshaft (two-piece type) — removal andrefitting..........

3

Eaultidiagnosis cnVesivatercnacm-sucmeeere une sierene nancial ararte Generaldescriptioner. n-.csu atece ate o neae raen aee ee Universal joints — inspection and repair ...............00Universal joints aren eweall lem cies sweecectote twenoee ec necue Neusisueen eae

oo on—

Specifications One-piece tubular shaft or two-piece shaft with center support hearing

Ibf ft 17226 40-50

Torque wrench settings U-bolt nuts

1.

General description

The short wheelbase Econoline models are equipped with a onepiece tubular driveshaft fitted with a universal joint at each end. The front end of the shaft has a slip yoke that is splined onto the transmis-

NUT

“U" BOLT

kgfm 233.5 5.5-6.9

sion output shaft while the rear end of the shaft is attached to the rear axle pinion flange by two U-bolts (see Fig. 7.1). Long wheelbase models are fitted with a two-piece driveshaft comprising a front coupling shaft, a center support bearing and a rear driveshaft. If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission, the front of the shaft is attached to the rear of the transmission output

SNAP RING

DUST SEAL

Qo

UNIVERSAL JOINT KIT

BEARING

BEARING

FLANGE

DRIVE

SHAFT

SLIP YOKE

Fig. 7.1. Single-piece driveshaft assembly

106

Chapter 7/Driveshaft SHAFT ASSEMBLY

FRONT YOKE

CENTER

— FRONT

SUPPORT

U-JOINT SLIP YOKE

THESE CAVITIES ARE NOT FILLED WITH GREASE

REAR SHAFT SLIP YOKE AND SPLINE END OF FRONT SHAFT TO BE INDEXED WITH ARROWS IN ALIGHMENT AT ASSEMBLY

SHAFT

ASSEMBLY

— REAR

Fig. 7.2. Two-piece driveshaft with front slip yoke fitting

CENTER SUPPORT

FRONT

YOKE COUPLING

SHAFT

U-JSOINT SLIP YOKE

DRIVESHAFT

ve

SHAFTS MUST BE ASSEMBLED WITH YOKES IN (PHASE) LINE AS SHOWN

THESE

Fig. 7.3. Two-piece driveshaft with front flange fitting shaft by means of a splined slip yoke (see Fig. 7.2). In the case of manual transmission the shaft is secured by a flange and U-bolts (see

Fides): Some driveshafts are fitted with grease nipples on the universal joints and sliding yokes, and these should be lubricated at periodic intervals. The center support bearing used on long wheelbase models

is pre-lubricated and sealed for the life of the bearing.

2

Driveshaft (one-piece type) — removal and refitting

1. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear of the vehicle or position the rear of the vehicle over or on a ramp. 2 If the rear of the vehicle is jacked up supplement the jack with support blocks so that danger is minimised should the jack fail. 3. If the rear wheels are off the ground place the vehicle in gear and apply the parking brake to ensure that the driveshaft does not turn when an attempt is made to loosen the four nuts securing the propeller shaft U-bolts to the rear axle pinion flange. 4 Mark the pinion flange, U-bolts and driveshaft so that it may be refitted in its original position. 5 Undo and remove the four nuts securing the two U-bolts to the

pinion flange and remove the U-bolts (photo). 6 Slightly push the driveshaft forward to separate the spider assembly from the pinion flange, then lower the end of the shaft and pull it rearwards to disengage the transmission mainshaft splines. 7 Place a large can or tray under the rear of the transmission extension to catch any oil which is likely to leak from the end when the driveshaft is removed. 8 Refitting of the driveshaft is a reversal of the above procedure. Ensure that the previously made mating marks are lined up.

3

Driveshaft (two-piece type) — removal and refitting

1 Carry out the procedures listed in paragraphs 1 to 4 of the previous Section. 2 In addition to marking the pinion flange coupling, also mark the position of the rear driveshaft slip yoke in relation to the splined end of the front coupling shaft.

3 Disconnect the rear driveshaft from the axle pinion flange and withdraw the shaft from the front coupling shaft splines. 4 Remove the bolts securing the center support bearing to the frame and support the weight of the bearing assembly and front shaft. 5 In the case of vehicles equipped with manual transmission, slide the slip yoke off the transmission shaft splines and withdraw the front shaft complete with center bearing. 6 If the vehicle is fitted with automatic transmission, (except models fitted with the 302 cu in engine) remove the U-bolts securing the shaft to the transmission flange and withdraw the front shaft and center bearing. 7 Refit the driveshafts and center support bearing using the reversal of the removal procedure. Make sure that the mating marks made previously on the pinion flange and sliding yoke are correctly lined up and the front and rear yokes are aligned as shown in Fig. 7.3.

4

Driveshaft center support bearing — renewal

1 First remove the complete driveshaft and described in the previous Section. 2 Check the bearing for wear or rough action shaft. Examine the rubber support cushion for general deterioration. If any doubt exists to assembly, the best policy is to renew the bearing

bearing

assembly

as

by rotating in on the signs of cracking or the condition of the complete with rubber

support. 3 Remove the bearing and rubber support from the front coupling shaft by either pressing it off or using a suitable puller. 4 Press the new bearing and support onto the shaft until it is in firm

contact with the flange. The new and no lubrication is required. 5 Refit the support bearing described in Section 3.

bearing is pre-packed with grease

and

driveshafts

on

the

vehicle

as

5

Universal joints — inspection and repair

1

Wear in the needle roller bearings is characterised by vibration in

Chapter 7/Driveshaft

107

Yee

2.5 Pinion flange and U-bolts

6.2 Removing the U-joint snap-rings

6.11A Fitting the caps

6.11B Pressing in the caps far enough to fit the snap-ring

the drive-line, ‘clonks’ on taking up the drive, and in extreme cases of lack of lubrication, metallic squeaking, and ultimately grating and shrieking as the bearing breaks up. 2 It is easy to check if the needle roller bearings are worn with the driveshaft in position, by trying to turn the shaft with one hand, the other hand holding the rear axle pinion flange when the rear universal joint is being checked, and the front half coupling when the front universal is being checked. Any movement between the driveshaft and the front and the rear half couplings is indicative of considerable wear. If worn, the old bearings and spiders will have to be discarded and a repair kit, comprising new universal joint spiders, bearings, oil seals, and retainers purchased. Check also by trying to lift the shaft and noticing any movement in the joints. 3 Examine the driveshaft splines for wear. If worn it will be

2

necessary

to purchase

a new

front coupling, or if the yokes are badly

worn, an exchange driveshaft. It is not possible to fit oversize bearings and journals to the trunnion bearing holes. ee

6

Universal joints — renewal

ee Ee ee 1 Before commencing work obtain the correct type of universal joint repair kit from your Ford dealer.

Clean

away

all traces

of dirt and

grease

from

the snap-rings

located on the ends of the bearing cups, refer to the photo and remove the snap-rings by pressing their open ends together with a pair of pliers, and lever them out with a screwdriver (photo). Note: If they are

difficult to remove tap the bearing cup face resting on the top of the spider with a soft-faced hammer which will ease the pressure on the snapring. 3 Take off the bearing cups on the driveshaft yoke. To do this select two sockets from a socket set, one large enough to fit completely over the bearing cup and the other smaller than the bearing cup. 4 Open the jaws of the vise and with the sockets opposite each other and the universal joint in between, tighten the vise and so force the narrower socket to move

the opposite cup partially out of the yoke

into the larger socket. 5

Remove

the cup with a pair of pliers. Remove

the opposite cup,

and then free the yoke from the driveshaft. 6 To remove the remaining two cups, paragraph 4 or use a socket and hammer.

repeat

the

instructions

in

7 Recover the thrust bearing from inside each cup and remove the seal from the base of each spider journal. 8 Before reassembling, using the repair kit, thoroughly clean out the yokes and journals. 9 Fit new oil seals to the spider journals and then assemble the

108

Chapter 7/Driveshaft

CHALK MARK ,

CHALK MARK

ic

So C CLAMPS AS A STEADY

REST

—————

Fig. 7.4. Marking the driveshaft

needle rollers 10 Fill each not forgetting 11 Refit the

180°FROM CHALK MARK

[=o

Fig. 7.5. Fitting the Whittek type clamps

in the bearing cups with the assistance of some grease. bearing cup about one third full with a unversal grease, to refit the thrust bearings first.

bearing cups on the spider and push the bearings home using a vise so that they lie squarely in position (photos). Refit the snap-rings and settle the cups by tapping the whole assembly with a soft faced hammer.

12 Check that angular movement of the universal joint is free throughout its full range without signs of stiffness. 13 In the case of universal joints that are secured by U-bolts, the task is easier as only two spider cups have to be removed using the method described. The remaining cups simply slide off the spider journals, these being held in position by the two U-bolts and small lips on the pinion flange.

7

Driveshaft — balance

1 If the vibration from the drive-line has been traced to the driveshaft and yet there are no traces of wear, then the driveshaft is

8

Fig. 7.6. Movement limit of clamps.

probably out of balance. This can also occur after overhaul.

2 First detach the driveshaft from the drive pinion flange and refit having rotated the shaft through 180°, if this does not cure the trouble then the following sequence should be followed: 3

Suitably

support

the rear’ of the vehicle

so that the wheels

are

clear of the ground. Chock the front wheels so that there is no chance of the vehicle moving off the supports. 4 Start the engine and with top gear selected run at a speed of 40 — 50 mph (reading on speedometer). 5 An assistant should now place a crayon or piece of chalk so that it just contacts the rear end of the driveshaft. Obviously great care must be taken to avoid injury. (Fig. 7.4). Stop the engine. 6 Fit two worm-drive type hose clips on the driveshaft so that the

heads are 180° from the chalk mark. Tighten the clips (Fig. 7.5). 7 Start the engine again and run at a speed of 65 — 70 mph (reading on speedometer). If no vibration is felt, lower the vehicle and road test. 8 Should, however, a vibration still exist rotate the clips approximately 45° away from each other and retest (Fig. 7.6). 9 Continue to rotate the clips apart in smaller amounts until the vibration has been eliminated.

Fault diagnosis — driveshaft

Symptom

Reason/s

Vibration

Wear in sliding sleeve splines. Worn universal joint bearings. Driveshaft out of balance. Distorted driveshaft.

Knock or ‘clunk’ when taking up drive

Worn universal joint bearings. Worn rear axle drive pinion splines. Loose rear drive flange bolts. Excessive backlash in rear axle gears.

Chapter 8 Rear axle Contents

Axleshaft bearing/oil seal — renewal (taper roller bearing COUSTEN S Gnc scare aa Cece Ces tree ree eras ek TOCOIL

—— DISTRIBUTOR INTERNAL RESISTOR

SCREW IN FOR HT LEAD

INTERNAL RESISTOR

“Es TWIN SCREW-IN

‘In-line’ suppressors

Resistive spark plug caps Fig. 10.36. Ignition HT lead suppressors

158

Chapter 10/Electrical system OPTIONAL CAPACITOR (GIVES MARGINAL IMPROVEMENT) A

0.25mf - 0.5mf

0.25mf - 0.5mf

LIVE

LIVE ———_O-O——_O FUSE

SWITCH

(iF FITTED)

MOTOR

GAUGE FUEL/TEMPERATURE

CONTROL

Fig. 10.37. Correct method of suppressing electric motors

GRILLE ASSEMBLY

Fig. 10.38. Suppressing gauges and their control units

SCREW

(4 REQ'D.)

NUT AND WASHER SPEAKER

SPRING NUT PANEL ASSEMBLY R.H. SIDE

SPEAKER REAR RADIO SUPPORT

ANTENNA

LEAD

HARNESS

LOCK WASHER

SPEAKER

INSTALLATION

RADIO INSTALLATION

Fig. 10.39. Typical radio installation for the Econoline

At this stage it is advisable to check that the radio is well grounded, also the antenna, and to see that the antenna plug is pushed well into the set and that the radio is properly trimmed (see preceding Section). In addition, check that the wire which supplies the power to the set is as short as possible and does not wander all over the vehicle. At this stage it is a good idea to check that the fuse is of the correct rating. For most sets this will be about 1 to 2 amps. At this point the more usual causes of interference have been suppressed. If the problem still exists, a look at the causes of interference may help to pinpoint the component generating the stray electrical discharges. The radio picks up electromagnetic waves in the air; now some are made by radio stations and other broadcasters and some, not wanted, are made by the vehicle. The home made signals are produced by stray

electrical discharges floating around the vehicle. Common producers of these signals are electric motors; ie, the windshield wipers, electric screen washers, electric window winders, heater fan or an electric aerial if fitted. Other sources of interference are electric fuel pumps, flashing turn signals, and instruments. The remedy for these cases is shown in Fig. 10.37 for an electric motor whose interference is not too bad and Fig. 10.38 for instrument suppression. Turn signals are not normally suppressed. In recent years, radio manufacturers have included in the line (live) of the radio, in addition to the fuse, an ‘in-line’ choke.

All the foregoing components

are available from radio shops or

accessory shops. If you have an electric clock fitted this should be suppressed by connecting a 0.5 mfd capacitor directly across it as

shown for a motor in Fig. 10.37. If, after all this, you are still experiencing radio interference, first assess how bad it is, for the human ear can filter out unobtrusive unwanted noises quite easily. But if you are still adamant about eradicating the noise, then continue.” As a first step, a few ‘experts’ seem to favor a screen between the radio and the engine. This is OK as far as it goes, literally! — for the whole set is screened and if interference can get past that then a small piece of aluminum is not going to stop it. A more sensible way of screening is to discover if interference is coming down the wires. First, take the live lead, interference can get between the set and the choke (hence the reason for keeping the wires short). One remedy here is to screen the wire and this is done by buying screened wire and fitting that. The loudspeaker lead could be screened also to prevent ‘pick-up’ getting back to the radio — although this is unlikely. Without doubt, the worst source of radio interference comes from the ignition HT leads, even if they have been suppressed. The ideal way of suppressing these is to slide screening tubes over the leads themselves. As this is impractical, we can place an aluminum shield over the majority of the lead areas. In a vee or twin-cam engine, this is relatively easy but for a straight engine the results are not particularly good.

Chapter 10/Electrical system Now for the really impossible cases, here are a few tips to try out. Where metal comes into contact with metal, an electrical disturbance is caused, which is why good clean connections are essential. To remove interference due to overlapping or butting panels you must

bridge the join with a wide braided ground strap (like that from the frame to the engine/transmission). The most common moving parts that could create noise and should be strapped are, in order of importance: a) b) c) d)

Muffler to frame. Exhaust pipe to engine block and frame. Air cleaner to frame. Front and rear bumpers to frame.

e) Steering column to frame. f) Hood and trunk lids to frame.

g) Hood frame to frame on soft tops. These faults are most pronounced when (a) the engine is idling, (b) labouring under load. Although the moving parts are already connected with nuts, bolts, etc, these do tend to rust and corrode, thus creating a high resistance interference source. If you have a ‘ragged’ sounding pulse when mobile, this could be wheel or tire static. This can be cured by buying some anti-static powder and sprinkling it liberally inside the tires. If the interference takes the shape of a high pitched screeching

159

noise that changes its note when the vehicle is in motion and only comes now and then, this could be related to the antenna, especially if it is of the telescopic or whip type. This source can be cured quite simply by pushing a small rubber bal! on top of the antenna (yes, really) as this breaks the electric field before it can form; but it would be much better to buy yourself a new antenna of a reputable brand. If, on the other hand, you are getting a loud rushing sound every time you brake, then this is brake static. This effect is most prominent on hot dry days and is cured only by fitting a special kit, which is quite expensive. In conclusion, it is pointed out that it is relatively easy, and therefore cheap to eliminate 95 per cent of all noises, but to eliminate the final 5 per cent is time and money consuming. It is up to the individual to decide if it is worth it. Please remember also, that you will not get concert hall performance from a cheap radio. Finally at the beginning of this Section are mentioned tape players; these are not usually affected by interference but in a very bad

case, the best remedies are the first three suggestions plus using 3 — 5 amp choke in the ‘live’ line and in incurable cases screen the live and speaker wires. Note: If your vehicle is fitted with electronic ignition, then it is not recommended that either the spark plug resistors or the ignition coil capacitor be fitted as these may damage the system. Most electronic ignition units have built-in suppression and should, therefore, not cause interference.

a

47

Fault diagnosis — electrical system

ee

nner

Reason/s Symptom ea Se

No voltage at starter motor

Voltage at starter motor: faulty motor

EIIEETTIEIEE=EESSSSE SSeS SEES EEESEEESREEREE

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Battery discharged. Battery defective internally. Battery terminal leads loose or ground lead not securely to body. Loose or broken connections in starter motor circuit. Starter motor switch or solenoid faulty.

Starter Starter

motor pinion jammed worn, badly brushes

attached

in mesh with flywheel gear ring. loose. wires or brush sticking,

Commutator dirty, worn or burnt.

Starter motor armature faulty. Field coils grounded.

Electrical defects

Dirt or oil on drive gear Mechanical damage Lack of attention or mechanical damage

Wear or damage

Insufficient current flow to keep battery charged

Battery in discharged condition. sticking, worn, badly brushes Starter Loose wires in starter motor circuit.

or

brush

wires

loose.

Starter motor pinion sticking on the screwed sleeve. Pinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn.

Pinion or flywheel gear teeth broken or worn. Starter drive main spring broken. Starter motor retaining bolts loose. Battery defective internally. Electrolyte level too low or electrolyte Plate separators no longer fully effective. Battery plates severely sulphated.

too

weak

due

to leakage.

Fan belt slipping. Battery terminal connections loose or corroded.

Alternator not charging properly. Short in lighting circuit causing continual battery drain. Regulator unit not working correctly.

Alternator not charging”

Fan belt loose and slipping, or broken. Brushes worn, sticking, broken or dirty.

Brush springs weak or broken.

electrician for checking of the alternator. tor is still no t charging, take the vehicle to an automobile * /f all appears to be well but the alterna

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C-812 se 2. es ale Front shockabsorber — removal and refitting .............. Erontspring — nremoOvaliand renittings 26 ee ed ce no en wo Front wheel bearings— adjustment .........--..+-00005 Front wheel bearings — removal and refitting .............. Front wheel spindles — removal, overhaul and refitting ....... GeIONCISG AOU Gloveci@ ory a:5.db.6 Glu Ome oun oer: bac aster caine Bowensteering)— bDIeedINg 5.0% ..2n ea ect We ele ce « Power steering gear — removal and refitting Power steering — general description

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6 11

Rear suspension leaf spring — removal and refitting

.........

10

Stabilizer bar — removal and refitting ...............006Steering assembly — removal and refitting ............... Steering column — removal and refitting ................4. Steering gear assembly — overhaul ........... 0 eee eee Steering geometry — checking and adjustment ............ Steering linkage — removal and refitting .................

7 12 18 he 20 19 21

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Specifications 8

Front suspension TWO

6 SA a oh

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Rear suspension OQ 6 obo TRY

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Steering (power assisted}

NO TIYABYE: socg Ya oudeoucuaeo 1 Gogloan gethiT igCyplio solo welroOnnirn CrOlas ecg oat N

Pump type Ratio Number of turns lock-to-lock

fn BRE ODACIy Breck TY. See TER

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Radius arm to axle Radius arm to rear bracket

Spindle bolt locking pin Shock absorber lower mounting

Shock absorber upper mounting

eh =

Half elliptical leaf springs and telescopic shockabsorbers

Recirculating ball 24:1 6.0 0.87 Ib

C3AZ—19578-A

Recirculating ball with integral piston and control valve Ford-Thompson with integral reservoir, belt driven from engine Gest 4.0 2.44 US pints Transmission fluid type D2AZ —

19582 —A

Refer to the tire information decal located on the front of the left-hand door pillar

Ibf ft

kgfm

120-160 180-220 75-125 40-55 40-60 15-20

16-22 — 30 24 10-17 5.5—-7.6 5.5-—7.6 2.0-2.7

and steering Chapter 11/Suspension

182 Rear suspension

U-bolt nuts (E100 — E200) Weboltimnuts (ES OO) mein cmnaee radeon eee ce ean eee Sbting thon tiltanGge rntitSi eect cman elem toe ieee ek eee Spring rear hanger nuts ShockabsorbernUppemimMOUmulmG: aut cuenmeecte-iuweie. our ame ecm enn Shockabsorber lower mounting Steering Steering gear to frame

Pitman arm to steering gear SidVel Mace Co UU

AURENMALOOMOLONGE

Wigtarenlag > a awoWik aumtetmes

Acme

Boe

Sel lA OALULESS Uk: ee CE ORCS oct i Att ot ONeins cca cee nt URED LAT Steering wheelinutia. as ack cai -ces md Sen ee a nee cee NCR eect

1

General description

The front suspension system fitted to the Econoline models covered by this manual comprises twin ‘I’ beam axles. The outer wheel spindle end of each axle is located by a radius arm and supports the vehicle through a coil spring and telescopic shockabsorber. The inner ends are attached to a pivot bracket at the opposite side of the vehicle. The rear axle is supported on semi-elliptical leaf springs attached to the chassis members by front shackles and rear hanger assemblies. The springs are secured to the axle by U-bolts. Rear suspension damping is achieved by telescopic shockabsorbers. The steering gear is the recirculating ball type with a power steering servo unit available as an optional extra on all models. The steering shaft rotates in two ball type thrust bearings and at the steering column end in a bearing. The sector shaft moves in bushes and has a seal at the lower end. The upper end of the sector shaft engages a rack which is integral with the ball nut. Steering shaft bearing adjustment is controlled by a large adjustment screw at the column end of the steering gear housing and an

adjustment screw at the column end of the steering gear housing and an adjustment screw on the sector shaft end cover.

2

Front wheel bearings — removal and refitting

1 Chock the rear wheels, apply the parking brake, loosen the frontwheel nuts, jack-up the front of the vehicle and support on firmly based axle stands. Remove the roadwheel. 2 Refer to Chapter 9 and detach the disc brake caliper (if fitted). 3 Carefully remove the grease cap from the hub. 4 Withdraw the cotter pin and lift away the nut lock, adjusting nut and plain washers from the spindle. 5 Lift away the outer bearing cone and roller assembly. 6 Remove the hub from the wheel spindle. 7 Using a screwdriver or tapered drift remove the grease seal. This must not be used again but always renewed. 8 Remove the inner bearing cone and roller assembly from the hub. 9 Remove grease from the inner and outer bearing cups and inspect for signs of wear, scratching or pitting. Damage of this kind means that the bearings must be renewed, using a tapered drift. The outer bearing cups can be removed.

10 Clean the inner and outer bearing cone and roller assemblies and wipe dry with a clean non-fluffy rag. 11 Carefully inspect the cone and roller assemblies for signs of wear or damage which, if evident, means that complete race assemblies must be obtained. Do not use anew cone and roller assembly in an old

cup. 12 Clean down the spindle and lubricate with fresh grease. 13 |f the inner and/or outer bearing cups were removed the new cups should be fitted using a suitable diameter drift. Make sure they are refitted the correct way round and also correctly seated (photos). 14 Pack the inside of the hub with fresh grease until it is flush with the inside diameter of both bearing cups.

15 Take each bearing cone and roller assembly and clean off old grease then pack with fresh grease taking care to work the grease well in between the rollers. 16 Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the inner cup. 17 Apply a smear of grease to the lip of the grease seal and refit it using a suitable diameter drift. Ensure the seal is correctly seated (photo).

45—60

62-5716

150-200 a= Oo, 55-90 40-60

PA9) = 727) 1O.sTS TG = 12 5.5-7.6

45-60

6.2

55-75 170 — 230 8—20 50-75 30-40 18 in a 19 the 20 21 the the 22

—-7.6

7.6—10 23341 ahi) =2.7 6.9-—10 4.15-5.5

Refit the hub on to the wheel spindle taking care to keep the hub central position so that the grease retainer is not damaged. Refit the outer bearing cone and roller assembly. Follow this with plain washer and adjustment nut (photos). Adjust the wheel bearing as described in Section 3. Fit a new cotter pin and bend the ends around the castellations of nut lock to prevent interference with the radio static collector in grease cap (photo). Refit the grease cap, tapping in position with a soft faced hammer.

23

Refer to Chapter 9 and refit the caliper (if fitted).

24

Refit the wheel and secure. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

3

Front wheel bearings— adjustment

1 Front wheel bearings should be adjusted if the wheel is loose on the spindle or if the wheel does not rotate freely. 2 Chock the rear wheels and apply the parking brake. Jack-up the front of the vehicle and support on firmly based stands. 3 Remove the hub cap and ease off the grease cap from the hub. 4 Wipe the excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock. 5 Slowly rotate the wheel and hub assembly and tighten the adjust-

ing nut to the specified torque wrench setting to seat the bearings. 6 Using a box spanner back off the adjustment nut by one half of a turn and then retighten the adjusting nut to a torque wrench setting of 10-15 Ibf in or finger tight. 7 The castellations on the nut lock on the adjusting nut must be aligned with the cotter pin hole in the spindle. 8

Fit a new cotter pin and bend the ends of the cotter pin around the

castellated flange

of the nut to prevent

interference

with the radio

static collector in the grease cap. 9 Check that the wheel rotates freely and then refit the grease cap and hub cap. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

4

Front wheel spindles — removal, overhaul and refitting

1 Jack-up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands placed beneath the side chassis members. 2 Support the weight of the axle on the side that is being worked on and remove the roadwheel. Remove the brake drum (or disc) and hub as described in Section Ww N

4 On E100 and E150 models, remove the brake backing plate and steering arm from the spindle assembly (see Fig. 11.3). 5 On E350 models, disconnect the steering trackrod balljoint from the steering arm using a suitable extractor. 6 Remove the nut and washer from the spindle bolt locking pin and drive out the pin. 7 Remove the grease plugs from the top and bottom of the spindle bolt, and then drive the spindle bolt out from the top of the axle and remove the spindle assembly. 8 Remove the grease seal and bushes from the spindle assembly using a suitable sized drift. 9 Check the spindle bolt for wear and renew it if necessary. 10 Obtain new bushes, seals and a thrust bearing and fit the bushes into the spindle assembly. 11 Place the spindle assembly in position on the axle. Pack the spindle thrust bearing with grease and insert it into the bottom of the spindle ensuring that the lip side of the seal faces downward into the

ES

2.17 hub

2.13B Driving the bearing cup into the hub

Fitting a new grease seal to the front

2.21 Front wheel cotter pin

2.19A Fitting the front wheel outer bearing into the hub ...

HUB AND ROTOR ASSEMBLY

iNNER

GREASE

BEARING

RETAINER

bearing locking nut and

cup ADJUSTING

OUTER

NUT

OUTER BEARING CONE AND

GREASE

BEARING CuP

Wess

CAP

~s

~ ©)

x

€

PIN

NUT

soe

INNER BEARING CONE AND

iH

ROLLER

:

IE. AD AISTING NUT,

ie

WASHER

COTTER

}

INSTALL THE AND A NEW COTTER

LOCK PIN

ne

ASSEMBLY

NUT

Fig.

HUB BOLT

11.2. Correct method of adjusting front wheel bearings

Fig. 11.1. Exploded view of front wheel bearings PLUG

o-—" SPINOLE

PIN

LOCK

PIN

SPINOLE PIN

SPINDLE ASSEMBLY »

5)

STEERING

STOP PLUG Se

5 BEARING

las

ROD ROD

AND

LINK

ASSEMBLY

£-250-350 INSTALLATION

AND

LINK

ASSEMBLY

E-100:150

Fig. 11.3. Wheel spindle installations

' INSTALLATIO! TION

SPINDLE ASSEMBLY

184

FRONT SPRING UPPER RETAINER ATTACHING BOLTS

SHOCK ABSORBER UPPER BRACKET

Fig. 11.4. Access aperture for shock absorber and front spring retaining bolts

UPPER

WASHER

INSULATOR THIS RIVET USED ON E-250 AND FRAME SPRING

Sa

Vee

E-350 MODELS ONLY

a

| SPRING

UPPER SEAT

UPPER

; INSULATOR

WASHER

RETAINER

INSULATOR

of ee Pe

LOWER

WASHER

RADIUS ARM REAR BRACKET

SHOCK ABSORBER

INSULATOR ‘RETAINER

5 > ee

SPRING

LOWER

SPRING

BRACKET

RETAINER

LOWER

Ss

SEAT

;

RADIUS ARM

Fig. AXLE

SHOCK LOWER

ASSEMBLY

11.5. Exploded view of radius arm and front spring components

185

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering spindle. 12 Line up the notch in the spindle bolt with the hole in the axle and tap the bolt through the spindle and axle assembly until the notch is

roadwheel. 3 Disconnect the lower end of the shockabsorber from the support bracket.

lined up with hole in the axle. 13 Carefully drive a new locking pin through the axle and secure with

4 Remove the front spring using the method described in Section 5. 5 Remove the lower spring seat from the radius arm and then remove the nut and bolt securing the front of the radius arm to the axle (see Fig. 11.5). 6 Remove the nut, washer and rubber insulator from the rear end of

the nut and washer. Tighten the nut and refit the grease plugs at the top and bottom of the spindle bolt. 14 Check that the spindle moves smoothly from lock-to-lock without

the radius arm. 7 Push the front of the radius arm away from the front axle and withdraw it from the rear support bracket. 8 Remove the front retainer and rubber insulator from the rear of the radius arm and retrieve any shims that may be fitted. 9 Refit the radius arm using the reverse procedure ensuring that the rubber insulators are refitted in the correct order. Tighten the radius arm-to-axle bolt to the specified torque wrench setting and secure it with the cotter pin. Tighten the rear nut to the specified torque wrench

any free-play and then refit the steering arm, back-plate, hub and brake assembly using the reverse of the removal procedure. 15 Lubricate the spindle assembly with grease, refit the roadwheel and check the steering toe-in as described in Section 20.

5

Front spring — removal and refitting

1 2

Jack-up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Support the outer end of the axle using a suitable jack and remove the roadwheel. 3. Disconnect the lower end of the shockabsorber from the support bracket. 4 Carefully peel back the front floor mat, remove the cover plate and undo the top spring retaining bolts (see Fig. 11.4). 5 Remove the nut securing the lower spring retainer to the seat, lower the axle as far as possible and remove the spring retainers and spring. 6 Refit the spring using the reverse procedure to removal. —

setting. 10 After the radius arm has been refitted it is recommended

EE

7

Radius arm — removal and refitting

1 2

Jack-up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Place a jack beneath the outer end of the axle and remove

Stabilizer bar — removal and refitting

ne S e Cee

the

1 2 stabilizer bar from the link assemblies attached to the axle brackets. Remove the brackets securing the bar to the chassis side 3 members and remove the bar and links from the vehicle. Renew any rubber bushes that are worn and refit the bar using the 4 reverse procedure to removal. Ensure that the links are fitted with the bend facing forward.

INSTALL LINK WITH OF FSET TOWARD FRONT AS SHOWN

RETAINER

WASHER

INSULATOR

Cn

WASHER

LINK ASSEMBLY VIEW

IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW

ee

Jack-up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. Refer to Fig. 11.6 and disconnect the left and right ends of the

LL

6

that the

steering angles and toe-in are checked by the local Ford dealer.

Y

BRACKET

VIEW IN DIRECTION

OF ARROW

Fig. 11.6. Installation of stabilizer bar (when fitted)

2

186

RIGHT

SPRING

SEAT

LEFT AXLE PIVOT BRACKET LEFT AXLE ASSEMBLY

ROD

AND

LINK

ASSEMBLY

RADIUS

ARM

NOTE CLAMPS MUST BE INSTALLED IN POSITION SHOWN * 45° RIGHT AXLE ASSEMBLY

Fig. 11.7. Layout of front suspension showing detail of axle pivot

brackets

RIGHT AXLE PIVOT

VIEW

LOCK NUT

BRACKET

Y

SHACKLE

SHOCK ABSORBER FLAT WASHER UNDERBODY

FLAT WASHER

HANGER

SPRING \ \_-

BCLT BUMPER

AXLE

HANGER

BOLT NUT

es)

U-BOLT

Fig.

11.8 Rear spring installation for E100 and 200 models

Chapter

11/Suspension and steering

187 aS

but the following two additional points should be noted: 8

Front axle — removal and refitting

1

Jack up the vehicle and support it on axle stands.

2 Remove the front wheel spindle from the axle removed using the procedure described in Section 4. 3 Remove the front spring as described in Section 5. 4

Remove

the stabilizer bar (if fitted) as described

that

is being

in the previous

5 Remove the spring lower seat from the radius arm and remove the nut and bolt securing the front of the radius arm to the axle.

Remove

Tighten the shockabsorber lower attachment to the specified torque wrench setting.

b)

Tighten the shockabsorber upper attachment to the specified

torque wrench setting.

Section.

6

a)

the nut and bolt securing the end of the axle to the pivot

bracket and withdraw the axle from beneath the vehicle. 7 Examine the bushes and pivot bolt for wear and renew if necessary. If the axle is bent, take it to a Ford dealer who will have the necessary equipment for straightening it. 8 Refit the axle using the reverse procedure to removal and tighten the nuts to the specified torque wrench setting. ue

9 Front shockabsorber — removal and refitting ee Chock the rear wheels, apply the parking brake, loosen the front 1 wheel nuts, jack-up the front of the vehicle and support on firmly

based axle stands. Remove the wheel. Undo and remove the nut, washer and bushing from the top end of 2 the shockabsorber. Undo and remove the nut and bolt securing the bottom end of the 3. shockabsorber to the lower bracket. Examine the shockabsorber for signs of damage to the body, 4 distorted piston rod, loose mounting or hydraulic fluid leakage which, if evident, means a new unit should be fitted. To test for shockabsorber efficiency hold the unit in the vertical 5 position and gradually extend and contract the unit between its maximum and minimum limits ten times. It should be apparent a new unit should be fitted — always renew the shockabsorbers in pairs. Refitting the shockabsorbers in the reverse sequence to removal 6

eS SS ee ee ee oe 10 Rear suspension leaf spring — removal and refitting ie po Pee Chock the front wheels, jack-up the rear of the vehicle and support 1. on firmly based axle stands. Also support the weight of the rear axle. Refer to Figs. 11.8 or 11.9 as appropriate and disconnect the 2 lower end of the shockabsorber from the axle bracket. Remove the two U-bolts and spring retainer plate and lower the 3. axle. Remove the upper and lower rear shackle bolts and nuts. Pull the 4 rear shackle from the bracket and spring. Remove the nut and bolt from the front spring bracket and lift the 5 ; spring out from beneath the vehicle. If the front bush is to be renewed it is best to leave this part of the 6 the job to the local Ford dealer as a special tool is required to draw out old bush and insert the new one. If one is ambitious, however, the job can be done using a large bench vise and a selection of tubular drifts. The manufacturer's recommend that when a rear spring is being 7 renewed all old nuts and bolts should be discarded and new ones obtained. Always renew rear springs in pairs. When refitting the spring, refit the front end first but do not tighten 8

the nut fully at this stage. Refit the rear spring shackle to the bracket 9 shackle. Do not tighten the shackle pin nuts. 10 Raise the axle using a jack until the spring the hole in the axle casing. 11. Fit the spring retaining plate and U-bolts the nuts at this stage. 12 Refit the shockabsorber to the axle bracket. 13. Raise the vehicle on the jack until the rear

WASHER-OUTER

and fit the spring to the center bolt is located in but do not fully tighten

wheels are clear of the

SHACKLE

LOCK NUT

e

SHOCK ABSORBE R

ie

BRACKET

Fig. 11.9. Rear spring installation for E300 models

188

GEAR ATTACHING BOLTS .

PITMAN

Fig.

ARM

11.10. Installation of steering gear

BEARING

OIL ages

|)

wae HOUSING

47

MESH LOAD ADJUSTING SCREW

lag

BEARING CUP

BEARING SECTOR SHAFT

BALL NUT

ce

CA

e

e

e °

%*— °°

LOCKNUT

enre

ad

r

BALL BEARING BALL RETURN GUIDE

aa

CLAMP

HOUSING COVER ASSEMBLY

BEARING SEAL

t

.

~

ADJUSTER NUT

poe LOCK NUT SHAFT SEAL

Fig.

11.11. Exploded view of steering gear

Fig. 11.12. Driving out the sector shaft bearing

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

189 _

ground and then tighten the front and rear spring retaining nuts and the U-bolt nuts to the specified torque wrench setting. 13 Refit the roadwheels and lower the vehicle to,the ground.

11

Rear shockabsorber — removal and refitting

1 Chock the frontwheels and raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 2 Remove the shockabsorbers lower attaching nut and pull it free of the mounting bracket. 3 Remove the securing nut from the upper mounting stud and withdraw the shockabsorber from the vehicle. 4 Examination and testing of the rear shockabsorber is similar to that for the front shockabsorber. Refer to Section 9, paragraphs 4 and 5 for full information. 5 Refitting the rear shockabsorber is the reverse sequence to removal but the following additional points should be noted:

to the steering gear body. 2 Remove the large locknut and then unscrew adjuster nut. Lift out the upper bearing and cup.

3 Remove the sector shaft adjuster screw locknut and slacken the adjuster screw approximately one turn. 4 Remove the screws securing the sector shaft cover and remove the cover by turning the adjuster screw clockwise. Retrieve the adjuster screw shim. 5 Withdraw the sector shaft from the housing (see Fig. 11.11). 6 Carefully withdraw the steering shaft and ball nut assembly and remove the lower bearing. 7 Carefully check the condition of the steering shaft worm and ball nut. If the ball nut rotates harshly and there are signs of pitting on the worm gear the best policy is to renew both the worm shaft and ball nut, as wear in one is certain to cause wear in the other. 8 Check the condition of the sector shaft bearing and if worn, drive it out of the housing using a suitable sized drift or special tool number T62F—3576A (see Fig. 11.12). 9

a) b)

Tighten the shockabsorber to bracket securing nut to the specified torque wrench setting. Tighten the shockabsorber upper bracket to body to the specified torque wrench setting.

12

Steering assembly — removal and refitting

1 Move the steering wheel to the ‘straight-ahead’ position, and lock the steering with the ignition key. Chock the rear wheels, apply the parking brake, loosen the front 2 wheel nuts, jack-up the front of the vehicle and support on firmly based axle stands. Remove the roadwheels. Referring to Fig. 11.10, remove the securing bolts from the lower 3 half of the flex coupling. Using a suitable puller or Ford special tool No. 3290-C, discon4 nect the Pitman arm from the drag link. Support the weight of the steering gear, remove the three 5 attaching bolts and withdraw the steering gear from the vehicle. Refit the steering gear using the reversal of the removal procedure 6 ensuring that the input shaft is in the center position, (approximately three turns from either stop) and the Pitman arm is located on the sector shaft so that it points downward.

13

Steering gear assembly — overhaul

1

Set the steering shaft to the center position and mark it in relation

Clean the housing assembly and renew the upper and lower steer-

ing shaft bearings and cups. : 10 To reassemble the steering gear assembly, first fit a new seal on the end of the sector shaft bearing. Smear some gear oil around the bearing. 11 Fit the lower bearing in the steering gear housing. 12 Lubricate the worm gear and ball nut and insert them into the housing. 13 Place the upper bearing on the steering shaft. 14 Coat the threads of the adjuster nut with an oil-resistant sealing compound and fit it into the housing, but do not tighten fully. Fit the

locknut with the flat side against the adjuster. 15 To adjust the worm bearing preload, attach an in/lb torque wrench to the steering shaft and turn the adjuster nut in or out until the effort required to turn the steering shaft in either direction is 4-5 in/Ib. 16 Tighten the locknut and recheck the preload. 17 Rotate the steering shaft until the ball nut teeth are in position to mesh with the sector shaft. Lubricate the sector shaft. Lubricate the sector shaft and insert it into the housing. 18 Fill the housing with the specified amount of gear oil and refit the cover using a new gasket. Make sure that the adjuster screw head is correctly engaged in the top ofthe sector shaft. 19 Attach a in/Ib torque wrench to the end of the sector shaft and set

the adjusting screw until an effort of 9-10 in/Ib is required to turn the shaft (see Fig. 11.13). Tighten the locknut and recheck the setting. 20 Refit the steering gear to the vehicle as described in Section 12.

SECTOR SHAFT ADJUSTER SCREW

Fig.

the steering shaft

11.13. Adjusting the sector shaft preload

190 LOWER

BEARING INLET

OUTLET THRUST

BEARING

STUB

SHAFT

TORSION

BAR

ae

Abpea i

||

=

[—D

tll faa

SEAL ADJUSTER

STUB SHAFT

PLUG

BEARING

WORM TEFLON

RING

VALVE

RACK PISTON PISTON NUT NU

BODY

VALVE SPOOL SEALS

TEFLON

SHAFT

SECTOR

Fig.

11.14. Sectional view of power assisted steering gear

. SAFETY

PIN

SAFETY

PIN

TURN

BRAKE SUPPORT BRACKET

STEERING SHAFT FLANGE

vin

‘

WORM (INPUT) SHAFT OF STEERING

VIEW IN DIRECTION

GEAR

OF ARROW

M

,

oe)

Af. ee

we

ATTACHING BOLT

ie

LEVER

ee

,

HAND SHIFT LEVER SHAFT

=

| STEERING

FLANGE

GEAR

~ SS

ASSEMBLY

VIEW FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION ONLY

Fig.

RETAINING PIN

FLEX COUPLING SAFETY PIN i

|

TRANSMISSION

LOWER CLAMP

\

ere STEERING

7

Y

\

\O&9) OR

\/ \ Sa

VIEW IN DIRECTION

UPPER

@

\

een LEVERS

PLATE

COLUMN

11.15. Installation of steering column assembly

VIEW IN DIRECTION OF ARROW 2 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHOWN

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

191 —$—$—$_—$_$_—_$_—_—_$_

14

to the brake support bracket. 9 Withdraw the complete column

Power steering— general description

assembly through the dash panel

aperture toward the inside of the cab.

1 The power steering system available on Econoline models has a Ford Thompson type pump that is belt driven from the crankshaft fluid to a servo assisted recirculating ball type steering gear. 2 Servo assistance is obtained by a piston attached to the end of the worm shaft. The degree of assistance is controlled by a spool valve

attached to the steering input shaft (see Fig.

11.14).

3. The power steering pump incorporates an integral fluid reservoir. 4 Owing to the complexity of the power steering system it is recommended that servicing etc, is limited to that given in the following Sec-

tions. In the event of a fault occurring it is recommended overhaul is entrusted to a specialist in this type of work.

that repair or

10 If the steering column upper and lower bearings require renewal, first drive out the shift lever retaining pin and remove the lever. 11. Remove the turn signal lever and switch assembly as described in Chapter 10. 12 Remove the upper bearing snap-ring, push the steering shaft downward and remove it complete with the iower bearing. 13 Remove the upper shaft bearing from the top of the column. 14 Fit new bearings in the column assembly and insert the steering shaft from the lower end of the column. 15 Push the shaft through the upper and lower bearings and refit the upper bearing snap-ring.

15

Power steering — bleeding

16 Refit the shift lever and turn signal switch, and refit the steering column assembly to the vehicle using the reverse procedure for removal.

1

The power steering system will only need bleeding in the event of

a

air being introduced into the system ie, where pipes have been disconnected or where a leakage has occurred. To bleed the system proceed

19 Steering linkage — removal and refitting EE EEE SS

as described in the following paragraphs. 2 Open the hood and check the fluid level in the pump reservoir. Top

1 Jack-up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 2 Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the two connecting rod balljoints and, using a suitable extractor, disconnect the spindle arms. Remove the connecting rod from beneath the vehicle. 3 Refer to Fig. 11.16 and remove the cotter pins and nuts from the two drag link balljoints. Using a suitable extractor disconnect the drag link from the sector shaft arm and spindle arm. Remove the drag link from the vehicle. The drag link balljoints cannot be renewed separately, and if worn 4 a new link must be obtained. 5 To renew the connecting rod balljoints, first mark the exposed threads of the balljoints with paint. This will enable the new joints to be screwed into the connecting rod approximately the same amount as the original ones. Slacken the clamp bolt and unscrew the balljoints from the con6

up if necessary using the specified type of fluid. 3 If fluid is added, allow two minutes then run the engine at approximately 1500 rpm. Slowly turn the steering wheel from lock-tolock, whilst checking and topping-up the fluid level until the level remains steady, and no more bubbles appear in the reservoir. 4 Clean and refit the reservoir cap, and close the hood. E

EEEENE EE EEUU

16 Power steering pump — removal and refitting —————E——E—EeEeES EE —e—— ———EEE EEE Slacken the pump adjusting bolt and retaining bolts. 1 Push the pump in toward the engine, and remove the drive belt. 2 Disconnect the power system fluid lines from the pump and drain 3.

the fluid into a suitable container. Plug, or tape over, the end of the lines to prevent dirt ingress. 4 If necessary, remove the alternator drive belt(s) as described 5 Chapter 10.

Remove 6 remove the necessary to Refitting 7

in

the bolts attaching the pump to the engine bracket and Note: On some engine installations it may be pump. remove the pump complete with bracket.

is a direct reversal of the removal procedure. Ensure that

the fluid lines are tightened to the specified torque, top-up the system

with

an approved

fluid, adjust the alternator

(see

drive belt tension

Chapter 1), then bleed the system, as described in Section

15.

EEE ee ee ee e Ceeeeeneeeeeeeee

17

Power steering gear — removal and refitting

necting rod. Screw the new balljoints into the connecting rod the same amount 7 as the original joints. Tighten the clamp bolts and nuts. Refit the steering linkage to the vehicle using the reverse proce8 dure to removal. Check the front wheel toe-in as described in the next Section. 9 i

20 Steering geometry — checking and adjustment ee S ee e te Unless the front suspension has been damaged, the castor angle, 1 camber angle and king pin inclination angles will not alter, provided, of course, that the suspension balljoints are not worn excessively. 2

The toe-in of the front wheels is a setting which must be reset if

—_—

CE

The procedure for removing the power steering gear is similar to 1 the that described in Section14 for the manual steering gear with ensure additional task of disconnecting the pump lines. When refitting, the that the fluid lines are tightened to the specified torque, top-up belt tension system with an approved fluid, adjust the alternator drive Section 23. (see Chapter 1), then bleed the system, as described in

ee 18

SPINDLE

ARM

ee

® gm

Steering column — removal and refitting

in Chapter 6. Remove the two 6 flexible coupling.

Remove

nuts

securing

the steering

&

SPINDLE ARM STOP

and mark the steerSet the wheels to the straight ahead position 1 of chalk or paint to piece a with coupling flexible and flange shaft ing bly. reassem during nt ensure correct alignme 10. Remove the steering wheel as described in Chapter 2 g column cover panel Remove the two screws retaining the steerin 3 and remove the panel (later models only). and the back-up Disconnect the ignition switch wire connector 4 and neutral start switch wires from the column. shift levers as described Disconnect the shift rod from the column 5

7

SECTOR SHAFT ARM

shaft flange

sg

CONNECTING ROD TUBE

-S9

DRAG LINK

—e@ SPINDLE ARM

re

&

ca.)

to the

cover plate the three bolts retaining the steering column

1 iheyItsy to the inside of the dash panel (see Fig. upper steering Remove the bolts securing the 8

column

bracket

Fig. 11.16. Layout of steering linkage

CONNECTING

ROD END

192

Chapter 11/Suspension and steering

new components are fitted — for example, after fitting new tie-rod balljoints it will be necessary to reset the toe-in.

3.

Indications of incorrect wheel

alignment (toe-in) are uneven tire

wear on the front wheels and erratic steering, particularly when turning. To check toe-in accurately needs optical alignment equip-

ment, so this is one job that must be left to the local Ford garage. Ensure that they examine the linkage to ascertain the cause of any deviation from the original setting.

21

Wheels and tires

1. Check the tire pressures weekly (when they are cold). 2 Frequently inspect the tire walls and treads for damage and pick out any large stones which have become trapped in the tread pattern. 3. If the wheels and tires have been balanced on the vehicle then they should not be moved to a different axle position. If they have been

22

balanced off the vehicle then, in the interests of extending tread life,

they can be moved between the front and rear on the same side of the vehicle and the spare incorporated in the rotational pattern. Never mix tires of different construction or very dissimilar tread 4

patterns. Always keep the wheel nuts tightened to the specified torque and 5 if the bolt holes become elongated or flattened, renew the wheel. 6 Occasionally, clean is any sign of rust or paint. Note: Corrosion a more serious problem is evident, consult your

the inner faces of the roadwheels and if there corrosion, paint them with metal preservative on aluminium alloy wheels may be evidence of which could lead to wheel failure. If corrosion Ford dealer for advice. 7 Before removing a roadwheel which has been balanced on the vehicle always mark one wheel stud and bolt hole so that the roadwheel may be refitted in the same relative position to maintain the balance.

Fault diagnosis — suspension and steering

Before diagnosing faults from the following chart, check that any irregularities are not caused by: 1 Binding brakes. 2 3

Incorrect ‘mix’ of radial and crossply tires. Incorrect tire pressures.

4

Misalignment of the bodyframe.

rr

Symptom

Reason/s

SSS

Steering

wheel

can

be

moved

considerably

before

any

sign

of

SS

Wear in the steering linkage, gear and column coupling.

movement of the roadwheels is apparent

Vehicle difficult to steer in a consistent straight line — wandering

As above. Wheel alignment

incorrect

(indicated

wear).

by excessive

or uneven

tire

by excessive

or

tire

Front wheel hub bearings loose or worn. Worn balljoints. Steering stiff and heavy

Incorrect wear).

wheel

alignment

(indicated

Excessive wear or seizure in one steering linkage or suspension. Excessive wear in the steering gear. Failure of power steering gear pump. Wheel wobble and vibration

Excessive pitching and rolling on corners and during braking

Roadwheels out of balance. Roadwheels buckled. Wheel alignment incorrect. Wear in the steering linkage, control arm pivot. Broken front spring.

or

more

suspension

Defective shock absorbers and/or broken spring.

of the

uneven joints

balljoints

or

in the

track

Chapter 12 Bodywork and underframe Contents

Air conditioning system — general Doors — tracing rattles and their rectification .............. Door trim panel (when fitted) — removal and refitting ........ Front and rear bumpers — removal and refitting ............ Front aoor latch — removal and refitting .................

Y g) DP 10

Front fenders (later models only) — removal and refitting

......

21

........... .............

23 24 14 18

General description Heater unit (earlier type) — removal and refitting

Heater unit (1974 up) — removal and refitting

Hinged doors— removal and refitting ...............05.. POOUE KemmovalianG TenittinG ean -mss -wawattn ON. Se Waeunmamsnues6 Maintenance — bodywork and underframe Maintenance — hinges and locks

1.

General description

The Econoline van body is of an all-steel welded construction type mounted on a separate chassis frame. The chassis comprises two main longitudinal members joined by crossmembers. This forms a ladder type construction which is extremely robust. In the event of major body damage, the chassis dimensions must be checked and, if necessary, restored to those shown in Fig. 12.1. This task requires the use of special jigs and tools and must be entrusted to your nearest Ford body repair shop. The Econoline is available with a side opening door and a variety of window layouts to suit all customer requirements. Rear passenger seats are available and on later models, swivelling front seats are also

available. All models are fitted with a heating and ventilating system which operates by ram air when the vehicle is moving, or by a blower when stationary or for increased airflow. The heater is operated from a central control panel and airflow is directed to the windshield or vehicle interior according to the control lever settings. A heavy duty heater is available for some markets, and all models can be supplied with an optional air conditioning system.

ee ne Maintenance — bodywork and underframe 2 eet 0 The condition of your vehicle's bodywork 1

is of considerable

Maintenance — upholstery andcarpets ...............0.Major bodyirepaltse tsa. SAA cic Ae en ata ce one MinorbodyitepaliSe.ssns. on. sacar ents eeepen te iene ae rete

Radiator grille (thru 1973) — removal and refitting

3 5 4

..........

19

Radiator grille (1974 up) —removal and refitting ........... Rear door latch — removal and refitting .................-. Ssidedoonlatch —removallana' refitting an arin ets nee eens Slidingfdoormadjustment) aa ac. ceiore ener eae enn Sliding door latch — removal andrefitting ................

20 13 12 nS 16

Sliding/doop—=removalrandiretittingn

Wy

=r.

tela

eneen

a

Window regulator mechanism and glass — removal and FSCILELIMG Wats, cowie c he Ente ere eae hone Rete ec Re nate aC Ee ney ethers Windshield glass — removal and refitting .................

W

the same manner. If steam cleaning facilities are not available, then brush a water soluble cleanser over the whole engine compartment with a stiff paintbrush, working it well in where there is an accumulation of oil and dirt. Do not paint the ignition system and protect it with oily rags when the cleanser is washed off. As the cleanser is washed away it will take with it all traces of oil and dirt, leaving the engine looking clean and bright. ; 4 The wheel arches should be given particular attention as undersealing can easily come away here and stones and dirt thrown up from the roadwheels can soon cause the paint to chip and flake, and so allow rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to the bare metal with wet and dry paper, paint on an anti-corrosive coating and renew the paintwork and undercoating. 5 The bodywork should be washed once a week or when dirty. Thoroughly wet the vehicle to soften the dirt and then wash the vehicle down with a soft sponge and plenty of clean water. If the surplus dirt is not washed off very gently, in time it will wear the paint down as surely as wet and dry paper. It is best to use a hose if this is available. Give the vehicle a final wash down and then dry with a soft chamois leather to prevent the formation of spots.

6 Spots of tar and grease thrown up from the road can be removed with a rag dampened with gasoline. 7 Once every six months, or every three months, if wished, give the bodywork and chrome trim a thoroughly good wax polish. If a chrome cleaner is used to remove rust on any of the vehicle’s plated parts remember sparingly.

that the cleaner

also removes

part of the plating

so use

will importance as it is on this that the secondhand value of the vehicle mainly depend. It is very much more difficult to repair neglected portions bodywork than to renew mechanical assemblies. The hidden

gp 3 Maintenance — upholstery and carpets enn nee

traces of dirt vehicle steam cleaned. This will take about 17 hours. All

to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained remove them from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging and make quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by a wipe over with a damp cloth. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on light coloured upholstery) use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the head lining clean in the same way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle do

e and the of the body, such as the wheel arches and the underfram not engine compartment are equally important though obviously visible paintwork. requiring such frequent attention as the immediately is a sound Once a year or every 12,000 miles ((19,000 km), it 2 of the underside the have and shop body local your scheme to visit then be inspected and oil will be removed and the underside can electrical wiring and carefully for rust, damaged hydraulic pipes, frayed

similar maladies. At the same 3

in time the engine compartment should be cleaned

Mats and carpets should be brushed or vacuum cleaned regularly

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194

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned. Excessive damp causes odors or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally it is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are involved. Do NOT leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose.

4

Minor body repairs See photo sequences on pages 198 and 199.

Repair of minor scratches in the vehicle's bodywork If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork — repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch and to clear the surroundihg bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a thin paint brush; continue to apply thin layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the scratch is level with the surrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the paintwork in the scratch area with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste. Finally apply wax polish. Where a scratch has penetrated right through to the metal of the bodywork, causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch with a penknife; then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber or nylon applicator fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can be mixed with cellulose thinners to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper paste in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the tip of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners and then quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of the stopper paste is slightly hollowed. The scratch can now be painted over as described earlier in this Section.

Repair of dents in the vehicle's bodywork When deep denting of the vehicle’s bodywork has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is

about + in (3 mm) below the level of the surrounding bodywork. In

cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently from behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of wood firmly against the outside of the dent. This block will absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of bodywork from being ‘belled-

out’.

Should the dent be in a section of the bodywork which has double skin or some other factor making it inaccessible from behind, a different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the dent area, particularly in the deeper sections. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding ‘sound’ or bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush just as abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done the effectively by hand using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete with a preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal holes in the screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small the filler paste. affected area. This will provide a really good ‘key’ for g. To complete the repair see the Section on filling and resprayin

Repair of rust holes or gashes in the vehicle’s bodywork

inch or so of Remove all paint from the affected area and from an or a wire pad abrasive an using , bodywork ‘sound’ ng the surroundi

sheets of abrabrush on a power drill. If these are not available a few paint removed sive paper will do the job just as effectively. With the

195

you will be able to gauge the severity of the corrosion and therefore decide whether to renew the whole panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New body panels are not as expensive as most people think and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg. headlight shells etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. Hammer the edges of the hole inwards in order to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire brush the affected area to remove the powdery rust from the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible treat this also. Before filling can take place it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved by the use of one of the following materials: Zinc gauze, Aluminum tape or Polyurethane foam. Zinc gauze is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminum tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll and trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick the tape over the hole; it can be overlapped if the thickness of one piece is insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the tape with the handle of a screwdriver or similar, to ensure that the tape is securely attached to the metal underneath. Polyurethane foam is best used where the hole is situated in a section of bodywork of complex shape, backed by a small box section. The usual mixing procedure for this foam is as follows: Put equal amounts of fluid from each of the two cans provided in the kit, into one container. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken, then quickly pour this mixture into the hole, and hold a piece of cardboard over the larger apertures. Almost immediately the polyurethane will begin to expand, gushing frantically out of any small holes left unblocked. When the foam

hardens

it can

be cut back to just below

the level of the sur-

rounding bodywork with a hacksaw blade. Having blocked off the hole, the affected area must now be filled and sprayed — see Section on bodywork filling and respraying.

Bodywork repairs — filling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dent, deep scratch, rust hole and gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally speaking those proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and well contoured finish to the surface of the filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board — use the hardener sparingly (follow the maker's instructions on the pack) otherwise the filler will set very rapidly. Using the applicator, apply the filler paste to the prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of the filler to achieve the correct contour and to level the filler surface. As soon as a contour that approximates the correct one is achieved, stop working the paste — if you carry on too long the paste will become sticky and begin to ‘pickup’ on the applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at twenty-minute intervals until the level of the filler is just ‘proud’ of the surrounding bodywork.

Once

the filler has hardened,

excess

can

be removed

using a

Surform plane or Dreadnought file. From then on, progressively finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40 grade ‘wet-and-dry’ paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or wooden block — otherwise the surface of the filler will

not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface the

‘wet-and-dry’ paper should be periodically rinsed in water — this will ensure that a very smooth finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage the ‘dent’ should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by the finely ‘feathered’ edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by the rubbing-down operation is gone.

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe 196 a Spray the whole repair area with a light coat of grey primer — this will show up any imperfections in the surface of the filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or bodystopper, and once more smooth the surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners to form a really thin paste which is ideal for filling small holes. Repeat this spray and repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork are perfect. Clean the repair area with clean water and allow to dry fully. The repair area is now ready for spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a warm, dry, windless and dust free atmosphere. This condition can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will ‘lay’ the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork fittings (eg: chrome strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape and several thicknesses of newspaper for the masking operations. Before commencing to spray, agitate the aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an old tin, or similar) until the technique is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint rather than one thick one. Using 400 grade ‘wet-and-dry’ paper, rub down the surface of the primer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-anddry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the top coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying in the centre of the repair area and then using a circular motion, work outwards until the whole repair area and about 2 inches of the surrounding original paintwork is covered. Remove all masking material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least 2 weeks to

harden fully; then, using a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the new Finally, apply wax polish.

paint into the existing paintwork.

EE ee e Se 5

Major body repairs

Where serious damage has occurred or large areas need renewal due to neglect, it means certainly that completely new sections or panels will need welding in and this is best left to professionals. If the damage is due to impact it will also be necessary to completely check the alignment of the underframe structure. Due to the principle of construction the strength and shape of the whole can be affected by damage to a part. In such instances the services of a Ford agent with specialist checking jigs are essential. If a frame is left misaligned it is first of all dangerous as the vehicle. will not handle properly and secondly uneven stesses will be imposed on the steering, engine and transmission, causing abnormal wear or complete failure. Tire wear may also be excessive.

6

Maintenance — hinges and locks

1 Oil the hinges of the periodically. A gocd time 2 Oil the hood release periodically. 3 Do not over lubricate on the rotary cam spindle

7

hood and doors with a drop or two of light oil is after the vehicle has been washed. catch pivot pin and the safety catch pivot pin door latches and strikers. Normally a little oil alone is sufficient.

Doors —tracing rattles and their rectification

1. Check first that the door is not loose at the hinges and that the latch is holding the door firmly in position. Check also that the door lines up with the aperture in the body. 2 If the hinges are loose or the door is out of alignment it will be necessary to reset the hinge positions. 3 If the latch is holding the door properly it should hold the door tightly when fully latched and the door should line up with the body. If it is out of alignment it needs adjustment. If loose some part of the lock mechanism must be worn out requiring renewal. 4 Other rattles from the door would be caused by wear or looseness

DS

vA WEATHERSTRIP VIEW B

Fig. 12.2. Details of windshield weatherstrip and sealer

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe —_—_—_.

rersresesws eC

in the window winder, the glass channels and sill strips or the door buttons and interior latch release mechanism.

8

Windshield glass— removal and refitting

1

Where a windshield is to be renewed then, if it is due to shattering,

Switch on the heater boost motor and adjust the controls to ‘defrost’ but watch out for flying pieces of glass which might be blown out of the ducting. 7 Carefully inspect the rubber moulding for signs of splitting or deterioration. 8 To refit the windshield, first fit the weatherstrip onto the windshield with the joint at the lower edge. 9 Insert a piece of thick cord into the channel of the weatherstrip with the two ends protruding by at least 12 in at the top centre of the weatherstrip. 10 Apply sealer (type C5AZ—19554-—A) in the windshield opening

the facia air vents should be covered before attempting removal. Adhesive sheeting is useful to stick to the outside of the glass to enable large areas of crystallised glass to be removed.

groove in the weatherstrip (see Fig. 12.2). 11 Offer the windshield up to the aperture and with an assistant to press the rubber surround hard against one end of the cord, move round the windshield, so drawing the lip over the windshield flange of the body. Keep the draw cord parallel to the windshield. Using the palms of the hands, thump on the windshield from the outside to assist the lip in passing over the flange and to seat the windshield correctly

2 Remove the windshield wiper arms and blades from the vehicle (refer to Chapter 10 if necessary). 3 Where the windshield is to be removed intact then an assistant will be required. First release the rubber surround from the bodywork by running a blunt, small screwdriver around and under the rubber weatherstrip both inside and outside the vehicle. This operation will

break the adhesion of the sealer originally used. Take care not to damage the paintwork or cut the rubber surround with the screwdriver. 4 Have your assistant push the inner lip of the rubber surround off the flange of the windshield body aperture. Once the rubber surround starts to peel off the flange, the windshield may be forced gently outwards by careful hand pressure. The second person should support and remove

the

windshield

197

ee

complete

with

rubber

surround

and

onto the aperture.

12 To ensure a good watertight joint apply some sealer between the weatherstrip and the body and press the weatherstrip against the body to give a good seal.

13

Any excess sealer may be removed

with a gasolene moistened

cloth.

metal

beading as it comes out. 5 |f you are having to renew your windshield due to it shattering, remove all traces of sealing compound and broken glass from the weatherstrip and body flange. 6 Now is the time to remove all pieces of glass if the windshield has shattered. Use a vacuum cleaner to extract as much as possible.

9

Door trim panel (when fitted) — removal and refitting

1 Remove the retaining screws and detach the arm inside of the door (see Fig. 12.3 and:photo).

rest.from the

SHROUD SCREW (4 REQUIRED)

NUT (3 REQUIRED)

PLUG-BOTTOM

CLIP (11 REQUIRED)

(3 REQUIRED)

RIGHT SIDE ARM REST ASSEMBLY

9.1 Removing the front door armrest

PANEL

ASSEMBLY

SCREW (3 REQUIRED)

Gi iY ff CLIP (7 REQUIRED)

SEALER

MAIN VIEW

VIEW Z LEFT SIDE

Fig. 12.3. Installation of door trim panel (when fitted)

NUT (3 REQUIRED)

es

nen

This sequence of photographs deals with the repair and scratch (above rear lamp) shown in this photo. procedure will be similar for the repair of a hole. It noted that the procedures given here are simplified

of the dent The should be - more

In the case of a dent the first job - after removing surrounding trim - is to hammer out the dent where access is possible. This will minimise filling. Here, the large dent having been hammered out, the damaged area is being made slightly concave

explicit instructions will be found in the text

Now all paint must be removed from the damaged area, by rubbing with coarse abrasive paper. Alternatively, a wire brush or abrasive pad can be used in a power drill. Where the repair area meets good paintwork, the edge pf the paintwork should be ‘feathered’, using a finer grade of abrasive paper

In the case of a hole caused by rusting, all damaged sheet-metal should be cut away before proceeding to this stage. Here, the

Mix the body filler according to In the case of corrosion damage, off any large holes before filling gauze or aluminium tape. Make before ...

... applying the filler. Filler should be applied with a flexible applicator, as shown, for best results: the wooden spatula being

its manufacturer's instructions. it will be necessary to block - this can be done with zinc sure the area is absolutely clean

damaged area is being treated with rust remover and inhibitor before being filled

used for confined areas. Apply thin layers of filler at 20-minute

intervals, until the surface of the filler is slightly proud of the surrounding bodywork

Initial shaping can be done with a Surform plane or Dreadnought file. Then, using progressively finer grades of wet-and-dry paper, wrapped around a sanding block, and copious amounts of clean water, rub-down the filler until really smooth and flat. Again,

feather the edges of adjoining paintwork

Again, using plenty of water, rub down the primer with a fine grade of wet-and-dry paper (400 grade is probably best) until it is really smooth and well blended into the surrounding paintwork. Any remaining imperfections can now be filled by carefully applied knifing stopper paste :

of doors, The top coat can now be applied. When working out ing areas pick a dry, warm and wind-free day. Ensure surround

thoroughly, are protected from over-spray. Agitate the aerosol

then spray the centre of the repair area, working outwards

thin coats. with a circular motion. Apply the paint as several

The whole repair area can now be sprayed or brush-painted with primer. If spraying, ensure adjoining areas are protected from over-spray. Note that at least one-inch of the surrounding sound paintwork should be coated with primer. Primer has a ‘thick’ consistency, so will fill small imperfections

When

the stopper has hardened, rub-down

the repair area again

before applying the final coat of primer. Before rubbing-down this last coat of primer, ensure the repair area is blemish-free - use more stopper if necessary. To ensure that the surface of the primer is really smooth use some finishing compound

After a period of about two-weeks, which the paint needs to harden fully, the surface of the repaired area can be ‘cut’ with a mild cutting compound prior to wax polishing. When carrying out bodywork repairs, remember that the quality of the finished job is proportional to the time and effort expended

200

PUSH BUTTON ASSEMBLY

LATCH ASSEMBLY

REMOTE CONTROL ASSEMBLY

PUSH

BUTTON

DOOR OUTSIDE HANDLE

ASSEMBLY

VIEWB

DOOR INSIDE HANDLE

:

DOOR INSIDE HANDLE

j

HANDLE

CUP

WITH TRIM PANEL

WITHOUT VIEWC

Fig. 12.4. Details of front door latch assembly

TRIM PANEL

201

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe —— SS

2 Remove the two nuts from the inside door handle and remove the handle and trim cup (photo). 3

If the

vehicle

is equipped

with

a stereo

radio,

remove

the four

screws securing the speaker grille and remove the grille. 4 Remove the screw retaining the window regulator handle and remove the handle, washer and spacer (photo). 5 Carefully prise the trim panel clips out of the inner door panel and remove the trim.

6

Refit the trim using the reverse procedure to removal.

10

Front door latch — removal and refitting

1 If fitted, remove the trim panel as described in the previous Section. 2 Remove the access cover from the door inner panel (photo). 3

Disconnect

the

control

rods

from

the

latch

assembly

(see

Fig.

12.4). 4 Remove the three screws securing the latch assembly to the door and withdraw the latch (photo). 5 If required, the outside door handle can be removed by undoing the two retaining nuts on the inside of the door. 6 The door lock cylinder can be removed by sliding out the retaining clip. 7 \t is seldom worthwhile to attempt to repair a door lock or remote control mechanism, renew as an assembly.

8

9.2 Inside door latch and trim cup

Refitting is a reversal of removal but take care to adjust the stroke

of the external push button in relation to the lock operating plate. Ensure that the polythene sheet beneath the interior trim panel is refitted. 9 Check the door closure. Adjust the position of the striker plate on the door pillar if necessary, so that the door closure is firm and rattle free and the edge of the door is flush with the surrounding body panel surfaces when fully closed.

ee a 11 Window ing

regulator mechanism

SSS

ee

and glass — removal and refitt-

i

1

Remove

the door trim panel (if fitted) as described

PT

in Section

9

Le

at

SNe he eee pu ey res Oe act

IG

a

EON ce

and remove the access cover from the inner door panel.

Remove the three screws securing the vent window assembly to 2 the upper leading edge of the door (see Fig. 1255)F Remove one screw securing the front run retainer and division bar 3. bracket to the door. Slide the front run from the retainer and division bar. 4 Unsnap and remove the belt line weatherstrip from the door. 5 Refit the handle and lower the glass. Remove the two screws 6 securing the rear run retainer to the door edge and lower the rear retainers to the bottom of the door.

10.2. Removing the door access panel

/

ag?

9.4 Removing the window regu!ator handle

10.4 Withdrawing the door latch assembly

ee a VENT

i

| AND DIVISION

|

WINDOW

\

/

ra

;

BAR

| \\ \ \\

WINDOW REGULATOR FRONT

RUN

FRONT RUN RETAINER AND DIVISION 8AR

@®

— REAR

ROLLER RETAINING a

REGULATOR

ie

GLASS

CHANNEL

ARM ROLLER

Fig. 12.5. Front door glass and regulator mechanism

OUTSIDE HANDLE

:

PAD

_® NOT

LATCH ASSEMBLY

ROD RETAINER

ROD

we

LOCK CYLINDER

-_ RETAINES

ROD RETAINER

Fig. 12.6. Details of side door latch assembly

RUN RETAINER

203 PUSH BUTTON

Pao

SEE VIEWB

i

TO FRONT OF BODY

LOCK CYLINDER ROD

--

REMOTE fea ASSEMBLY S

SEE VIEWA

REMOTE CONTROL ASSEMBLY

SCREW

SCREW (3 REQ’D)

DOOR INSIDE HANDLE

m

(3 REQ'D)|

=D tas Ex act oro od= SEE VIEWC

REMOTE CONTROL BRACKET

BUSHING

NUT (2 REQ’D) ¥ SF

REMOTE CONTROL ASSEMBLY

See

SCREW :

(3 REQ'D)

SSS

So

:

VIEWA

SCREW (2 REQ'’D) UPPER LATCH ASSEMBLY LATCH ROD CUP

| CONTROL ASSEMBLY

Al N_-~

aw

-BUSHING

oe

KS LOCK CYLINDER ROD

LOWER LATCH ASSEMBLY

SCREW (4 REQ'D)

SCREW (2 REQ'D)

LOCK CYLINDER

ents Fig. 12.7. Rear door latch and associated compon

204

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe

7 Tilt the vent window and division bar assembly rearward, and separate the vent window from the front run retainer and division bar.

Renew the latch assembly if faulty and refit the latch and handle 8 assembly using the reverse of the removal procedure.

8 Remove the vent window and the front run retainer and division bar from the door. 9 Rotate the front edge of the glass downward, and lift the glass and channel assembly from the door, sliding the glass channel off the regulator arm roller. 10 Remove the regulator assembly retaining screws and withdraw the regulator through the aperture. 11 Renew the regulator mechanism as an assembly if the spring is broken or other components are worn or damaged. 12 Refitting is a reversal of removal but lightly grease the channel at the bottom of the glass before engaging the operating arm rollers.

4 To remove the lower latch, undo the four securing screws and disengage the latch rod from the latch. Withdraw the latch from the

13

door.

Wind

the window

up and down

to the fullest extent of its travel

13

Rear door latch — removal and refitting

1 2

Remove the trim panel (if fitted). Remove the three screws securing the upper latch to the door (see

ae, WAZ) 3.

Disengage the lock rod clip, remove

latch and remove

Refit

the

the latch rod from the upper

the upper latch from the door.

and adjust the run retainer securing screws so that the window glass

5

slides squarely and smoothly and yet the channels exert a slight grip to prevent the glass dropping sharply when the regulator handle is first

procedure to removal.

latch

and

associated

components

using

the

reverse

moved to wind the window down.

12

Side door latch — removal and refitting

1 Remove the door trim panel (if fitted) and the access panel from the inner door panel. 2 Remove the two nuts attaching the door inside handle and remove

the handle (see Fig. 12.6). 3 Remove the three remote

control bracket securing screws. Disconnect the remote control link and remove the remote control and bracket as an assembly. 4 Unscrew and remove the door lock push button. 5 Disconnect the lock cylinder rod from the door latch. 6 Disconnect the door outside handle rod from the outside handle. 7 Remove the three latch attaching screws and remove the latch from the door.

14

Hinged doors — removal and refitting

1

The method of removing, refitting and adjusting the front, side and

rear doors is basically the same.

2 Refer to Figs. 12.8 and 12.9 as appropriate and remove the upper and lower hinge access hole cover plates.. 3 Remove the door to lower hinge retaining bolts. 4 Get an assistant to support the weight of the door and remove the door to upper hinge retaining bolts. Remove the door from the vehicle. 5 Refit the door to the vehicle but do not fully tighten the hinge bolts at this stage. 6 The up or down position of the door can be adjusted by slackening the hinge bolts and moving the door in the required direction. Fore and aft movement of the door is achieved by adding or removing shims between the hinge and the door pillar. 7 When the door is correctly aligned in relation to the door aperture, tighten all the hinge bolts.

REINFORCEMENT

PLATE

—T TO FRONT OF BODY

aa

SECTIONAL VIEW-AA

Wu

ae:

ae oe TO FRONT

OF BODY SS

SECTION-BB ASSEMBLED

Fig. 12.8. Front door hinges showing method of adjustment

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe 15

Sliding door —adjustment

17

1 To adjust the front edge of the door either up or down, refer to Fig. 12.10 and slacken the three lower guide attaching screws. Rotate the

guide at the lower attaching screw to obtain the required up or down position. Tighten the guide attaching screws. 2

In or out adjustment to the upper edge of the door is achieved by

slackening the upper roller retaining nut and moving the roller in or out to obtain a flush fit with the body at the top edge of the door. 3 To adjust the lower front edge of the door either in or out, slacken the retaining screws on the guide assembly and move the guide assembly forward to move the door closer to the body and rearwards to move it away from the body at the pillar post (see ‘B’ Fig. 12.11).

16

Sliding door latch — removal and refitting

1 Make a note of the inside door handle position handle securing screw, handle and trim panel.

and remove

the

205

Sliding door — removal and refitting

1 Remove the nuts on the inside of the vehicle and the two screws on the outside of the vehicle that retain the center track shield and remove the shield. 2 Remove the lower guide check screws and remove the check. 3 Open the door and get an assistant to support it. 4 Mark the location of the upper guide bracket to the door. 5 Remove the three retaining screws and detach the upper guide bracket. 6 Carefully lift the door away from the vehicle. 7 Refit the door using the reverse procedure to removal and if necessary adjust the position of the door as described in Section 15.

18

Hood — removal and refitting

1 2

Raise the hood and prop it in the open position. Place pieces of cloth below the rear of the hood

to protect

paintwork.

2 Remove the outside door handle retaining clip and withdraw the handle complete with shaft (see Fig. 12.12). 3 Remove the screws securing the sleeve to the latch and withdraw the sleeve. 4 Remove the rear latch actuating rod assembly from the rear latch. 5 Remove the door lock rod from the lock cylinder and disengage it from the latch lever arm (Fig. 12.13). 6 Detach the stop actuating rod from the front latch. 7 Remove the three front latch retaining screws and disconnect the rear latch actuating rod from the latch. 8 Withdraw the latch assembly through the access hole in the door. Refit the latch assembly using the reverse of the removal 9

19

Radiator grille (thru 1973) — removal and refitting

1 2

Raise the hood and support it in the open position. Remove the headlight doors, headlights and ring assemblies

procedure.

Chapter 10).

3 Refer to Fig. 12.14 or 12.15 as screws retaining the hinges to the hood.

4

the

j appropriate

and

remove

the

Carefully lift away the hood from the vehicle.

5 To adjust the position of the hood after refitting, slacken the hinge screws and move the hood to the required position. When the hood is adjusted correctly, tighten the hinge screws.

(see

SECTIONAL VIEW-AA ; i SHIM INSTALLATION FOR BACK DOOR UPPER HINGES SHOWN SIDE REAR DOOR UPPER HINGE TYPICAL

SECTIONAL VIEW-BB | SHIM INSTALLATION FOR BACK DOOR LOWER HINGES SHOWN SIDE REAR DOOR LOWER HINGE TYPICAL

of adjustment Fig. 12.9. Rear and side door hinges showing method

206 ADJUSTMENTS

CAN

BE MADE

AS SHOWN IF NECESSARY.

QUiDEAeeEMELY BODY, SIDE DRIVE LOWER

BUMPER

VIEW A ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE |

AS SHOWN IF NECESSARY.|_

=

ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE

AS SHOWN IF NECESSARY.

'

P

ROLLER ASSEMBLY [| BODY SIDE DRIVE UPPER ADJUSTMENT |

ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE AS SHOWN IF NECESSARY.

eet ISCONNECT WHEN _— ~ ADJUSTING

-

CHECK BODY SIDE DRIVE

ROD ASSEMBLY-BODY SIDE REAR LATCH ACTUATING.

ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE AS SHOWN IF NECESSARY. ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE AS SHOWN IF NECESSARY.

HINGE

CHECK LOWER GUIDE VIEW EG VIEW F

Fig. 12.10. Adjustment points on sliding door

ASSEMBLY

DRIVE

207 ROLLER

ASSEMBLY

BRACKET-BODY SIDE-UPPER GUIDE

ae ie

LOWER GUIDE ASSEMBLY

—""

VIEW B

Fig. 12.11. Guides and rollers on sliding door

HANDLE-INSIDE

ESCUTCHEON SLEEVE

SEE VIEWA RETAINER

LATCH

ROTATE

L

:

ay

180°

=

Jae

LOCK SET

ASSEMBLY

ie

=e

. |— ‘| |

oe ae)

cc

ol VIEW A

Fig. 12.12. Sliding door latch assembly

RORIZoNTaL

208 FOAM

TAPE

PNL. BDY. SD, DR.

SECTION CC

RETAINER

ASSEMBLY

FOAM TAPE

LATCH

ASSEMBLY

LOCK SET

RETAINER

Gs

SZ

ASSEMBLY

¢,,

ROD ASSEMBLY

VIEW C LATCH

SCREW

AND

ASSEMBLY

WASHER

LOCK SET

W

ROD ASSEMBLY IN POSITION

LATCH

Fig. 12.13 Details of sliding door latch operating rods

ASSEMBLY

209

HINGE ASSEMBLY

DEFLECTOR

ADHESIVE

HOOD

DEFLECTOR

HINGE

ASSEMBLY

RETAINER SCREW

RETAINER SCREW i

RETAINER

LATCH

A!

Fig. 12.15. Later type hood and hinges assembly

LATCH STRIKER

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe 210 een on 3

Remove

the five screws securing the bottom

edge of the grille to

the front body member (see Fig. 12.16). 4 top 5 6

Remove the single screw attaching the hood latch support to the edge of the grille. Disconnect the parking light wires at the multi-connectors. Remove the screws securing the grille to the upper right and left

support brackets and lift away the grille.

7

7 Open the front door and screw and shims.

8

Remove

remove

the upper fender rear securing

the two screws securing the front edge of the fender to

the radiator Support.

9 Remove the remaining three screws and shims securing the top of the fender to the body structure and lift away the fender. 10 Refit the fender using the reverse of the removal procedure.

Refit the grille using the reverse of the removal procedure. 3

20

1 Raise the hood and support it in the open position. 2 Refer to Fig. 12.17 and remove the two center screws the grille to the support bracket.

3 4

22

Radiator grille — (1974 up) — removal and refitting

securing

Remove the six screws from the bottom of the grille. Remove the nine screws located on the upper flange of the grille

which is attached to the radiator upper support and gussets. 5 Lift away the grille from the front of the vehicle.

6

Refit the grille us ng the reverse of the removal procedure.

21

Front fenders (later models onlu) — removal and refitting

1 To remove the front bumper refer to Fig. 12.19 and remove the four nuts and bolts securing the bumper bar to the ends of the chassis members

the 5 the 6

fender to the lower radiator grille panel. Remove the three screws securing the lower edge of the fender to wheel housing. Remove the lower fender rear securing screws and shims.

and remove

the bumper.

2 If the vehicle is equipped with bumper guards, they are retained in place by the inner bolt on each side of the bumper. 3

The rear bumper is removed by undoing the four bolts securing the

bumper bar to the mounting brackets (Fig. 12.20). 4

Refit both front and rear bumpers

using the reverse procedure

Heater unit (earlier type) — removal and refitting

1 Open. the hood and remove the battery to gain access to the heater mounting bolts. 2 Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 2. 3. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater unit. 4 Disconnect the heater resistor and motor leads. 5 From the engine compartment, remove the three bolts securing the heater unit to the dash panel. 6 Move the heater unit to one cable and disconnect the cable. 7 Lift the heater unit out of workbench.

side to gain access the

vehicle

and

GRILLE

UPPER

to the control

place

GRILLE UPPER SUPPORT

SCREW

GRILLE

NUT AND RETAINER

SUPPORT

ROD

SUPPORT

to

removal.

23 1 The front fenders on later Econoline models are bolted in position and are fairly easy to remove, providing of course, that the securing bolts are not badly corroded. If they are, it will be necessary to cut them off using a bolt shearing tool or ahammer and chisel. 2 First remove the radiator grille as described in the previous Sections. 3 Remove the front bumper as described in Section 22. 4 Refer to Fig. 12.18 and remove the screws securing the front of

Front and rear bumpers — removal and refitting

ROD CLIP

Fig. 12.16. Earlier type radiator grille

SUPPORT

it on

the

211 i (\ sa. sl[7-11 FT. LB. TORQUE MOSS. sett

SPRING NUT

=

8-20 LB. IN. TORQUE

RADIATOR GRILLE OUTER SUPPORT (2 REQ'D.)

Y,

U-NUT, 1 EACH U-NUT

7-11 FT. LBS. TORQUE

RADIATOR

8-20 LB. IN, TORQUE

GRILLE

RADIATOR GRILLE OPENING LOWER PANEL

ASSEMBLY

Fig. 12.17. Later type radiator grille

HOOD BUMPER

SCREW

SHIM (2 MAXIMUM)

(12-20 FT-LB)

SHIM (2 MAXIMUM)

UPPER FENDER REAR ATTACHING SCREW (12-20 FT-LB)

os : LOWER

FENDER

ATTACHING

REAR

SCREW

(12-20 FT-LB) =

cs

SHIM (AS REQUIRED) RIGHT

FRONT

FENDER

U-NUT (ONE EACH SIDE)

LEFT FRONT FENDER

RADIATOR GRILLE OPENING LOWER PANEL

SCREW (2 EACH SIDE) (7-11 FT-LB)

SCREW

4~_

(ONE EACH SIDE) (12-20 FT-LB)

Mahal

(2 EACH SIDE)

Fig. 12.18. Bolt-on front fenders fitted to later models

(12-20 FT-LB) (3 EACH SIDE)

212

NUT AND WASHER ASSEMBLY (2 EACH SIDE)

FRONT BUMPER GUARD AND PAD ASSEMBLY

FRONT

BUMPER

Fig. 12.19. Front bumper assembly

NUT AND WASHER ASSEMBLY (4 REQ'D)

: sheta BOLT (4 REQ'D) BUMPER

BUMPER

Fig. 12.20. Rear bumper assembly

MOUNTING

ASSEMBLY

BRACKET

(2 REQ'D)

213

Chapter 12/Bodywork and underframe OUTLET-WINDSHIELD DEFROSTER

HEATER

SCREW

ASSEMBLY

At

Bey YEATER AIR INLET

SCREW AND

WASHER ASSEMBLY

\ y DASH PANEL yy i

DEFROSTER

OUTLET

‘a HEATER ASSEMBLY font

Soe

=

Ss

en -

AN

&

GROMME T

|

=

LE

clamp.

cain

DUCT ASSEMBLY

\

nN

uN. =—\(S

ee eae

COVER HEATER HOSE. Ose

Fig. 12.21. Earlier type heater installation

8

Remove

the sixteen

screws

and one

clip and separate

the two

halves of the heater unit casing. Lift out the heater core from the casing. 9 out the motor and fan 10 Remove the two retaining screws and lift assembly from the front half of the heater casing.

a new one must be 11 The motor is not repairable and if faulty new motor. the onto fan blower original the Fit d. obtaine corrosion and if evident 12 Check the heater core for leaks or severe obtain a new one.

13

the casing using the Refit the heater core and motor back into

reverse of the removal procedure.

vehicle, first set the heater 14 When refitting the heater unit in the position. Pull the air inlet in unit heater controls to off and place the ) and connect the control flap closed (toward the rear of the vehicle cable. ensuring the openings in the 15 Continue to install the heater unit air ducts. fresh and ter casing line up with the defros 16 Do not forget to refill the radiator.

a

24

Heater unit — (1974 up) — removal and refitting

iii Drain the cooling system as described in Chapter 2. 1 Disconnect the battery and remove it from the vehicle. 2 3. Disconnect the resistor wire and blower motor wire at the wiring harness.

4

Remove

panel.

the screw

securing the black ground wire to the dash

Disconnect the heater hoses from the core tubes and remove the 5 plastic strap retaining the hose to the heater unit. Remove the five heater unit retaining screws from inside the 6 vehicle and withdraw the complete heater unit from the vehicle. To dismantle the heater unit, first cut the seal at the top and 7 bottom edge of the heater core retainer and remove the two screws securing the retainer. Remove the retainer and slide the core and seal assembly out of 8 the casing.

214

HEATER CORE AND SEAL ASSY

T7 | ——

®

| ~ ooo

14.22 28.50 42.67 56.89 Wee 85.34 99.56 113.79 128.00 OMDNONOHRWN— 142.23 284.47 426.70 WN=> ooo

Index

NS

A Air cleaner — 49 Air conditioning system — 215 Alternator brushes — 140 fault diagnosis and repair — 140 general description — 138

C Camshaft — 23 Carburation adjustment — 51 air cleaner — 49 auxiliary fuel tank — 59 carburettors — 50

maintenance — 139

choke plate — 52

removal and refitting — 139, 140 special procedures — 139 specifications — 136 Antifreeze -- 45 Automatic transmission fault diagnosis — 103 general description — 97 intermediate band — 103 kick-down band — 103 low and reverse band — 103 neutral start switch — 103 selector linkage — 103 specifications — 91 transmission fluid level — 100 transmission removal and refitting — 101 transmission shift linkage — 103 Auxiliary fuel tank — 59

curb idle — 51 dismantling and reassembly — 55 fault diagnosis — 71 fuel filter — 50 fuel pump — 50 fuel tank — 59 general description — 47 idle mixture adjustment — 52 removal and refitting — 55 specifications — 46 thermostatic air cleaner — 48 throttle linkage — 59 warning — 30 Clutch adjustment — 85 fault diagnosis — 90 general description — 85

Axleshaft bearing/oil seal — 111

linkage — 89

Axleshaft bearing renewal — 111 Axleshaft — 109

inspection — 86 overhaul — 86 pedal — 89

B Battery

charging — 138 electrolyte replenishment — 138 maintenance and inspection — 137 removal and refitting — 137 Braking system

refitting — 88

release bearing — 89 removal — 86 specifications — 85 Condenser — 75 Connecting rods — 28

bleeding — 119

Contact breaker points — 75

brake booster — 133 disc brake caliper (floating type) — 123 disc brake caliper (sliding type) — 123 disc brake pads (floating type) — 121 disc brake pads (sliding type) — 119

Cooling system antifreeze — 45 draining —41 drivebelts — 44 fault diagnosis — 45

drum brake backplate — 128

filling — 41

drum brake shoes — 128 drum brake wheel cylinder — 127 fault diagnosis — 132 flexible hoses — 119 front and rear drum brake shoes — 125

flushing — 41 general description — 40 radiator — 43 specifications — 40 temperature gauge — 45

front brake disc and hub — 123

thermostat — 43

general description — 119 master cylinder — 128 parking brake — 131 parking brake assembly — 131 parking brake cable — 133 pedal — 131 pressure differential valve assembly — 131 pressure differential valve — 119 specification — 117 Buving spare parts — 5

water pump — 43 Crankshaft — 23, 24, 27

Crankshaft bearings — 27 Crankshaft damper — 23 Cylinder bores — 27 Cylinder heads decarbonisation — 30 dismantling — 22 removal with engine in — 21 removal with engine out — 22

ee

eee

Index

D Differential carrier — 112

overhaul (conventional) — 113 overhaul (limited slip) — 114 Distributor dismantling — 76 inspection and repair — 76 lubrication — 76 reassembly — 78 refitting — 78

removal and refitting (electronic) — 83 removal — 76 specifications — 73 Doors and windows — 196 Driveshaft balance — 107 center support bearing — 106

fault diagnosis — 108 general description — 105 removal and refitting — 106 universal joints — 106 specifications -105

Flywheel

removal — 23 ring gear — 29 Fuel filter — 50 Fuel pump description — 50

removal and refitting — 50 testing — 50 Fuel tank cleaning and repair — 59 general description — 59 Fuses — 153 Fusible link — 142

G Gearbox, manual dismantling — 92 examination and reassembly — 94 fault diagnosis — 103 general description — 92 input shaft — 95 Output shaft — 95 reassembly — 97

removal and refitting — 92 specifications — 91 Emission control system

fault diagnosis — 71 general description — 64 maintenance and testing — 69 Engine ancillaries — 21 camshaft — 23, 28 components — 27 connecting rods — 28 crankshaft — 23, 24, 27 crankshaft bearings — 27 crankshaft rear oil seal — 24 cylinder bores — 27 cylinder heads — 21 description — 19 dismantling — 21

fault diagnosis — 39 flywheel — 23, 29 front cover — 23 initial start up — 38 lubrication — 24 main bearings — 24 oil filter — 27

oil pan — 30 oil pump — 24, 29 piston pin — 24 piston rings — 28 pistons — 28 reassembly — 30 refitting — 38 removal — 19 specifications — 15

timing chain — 23, 29 valves — 22, 28, 29 Electrical system alternator — 138 battery — 137 fault diagnosis — 139 general description — 137 headlights — 142 horn — 155 ignition switch — 153 instrument panel — 149 radios and tape players — 156 specifications — 135 speedometer cable — 149 starter motor — 140 windshield washers — 155 windshield wiper — 153 Exhaust system — 64

Hazard warning lights — 149 Headlight — 142 Heater — 210 Hood — 205 Horn — 155

Ignition condenser — 75 contact breaker points — 75 distributor — 76

fault diagnosis — 83 general description — 74 general description (electronic) — 78 servicing and Federal regulations — 75 spark plugs — 78 specifications— 73 static ignition timing — 78 timing— 83 Ignition switch — 153 Instrument panel — 149

Jacking and towing — 6

Main bearings — 25 Main fuel tank — 59 Maintenance bodywork and underframe — 193

hinges and locks — 196 upholstery and carpets — 193 Major body repairs — 196 Minor body repairs — 195

Oil filter — 27

Oil pan inspection — 30 removal - 23

Oil pump overhaul — 29 removal — 24 Oil seal — 111

Pinion oil seal — 116 Piston pin — 24 Piston rings — 24

220

Index

ee

Pistons

steering linkage — 191

examination and renovation — 28

wheel and tyres — 192

removal — 24

T R

;

Radiator

33

Temperature Bis fault diagnosis —

removal and refitting — 45

Radiator grille — 205

Thermcctat

Radios and tape players fitting — 156 : : suppression and interference — 157

Rear axle =

removal and refitting — 43 ; testing — 43

Thermostatic air cleaner

‘

general description — 48

Rear light cluster — 145 Routine maintenance — 8

.

I se Throttle linkage — 59 Tools and working facilities — 12

Ss

Seat belt/interlock system — 153 Sliding door adjustment — 205 latch removal and refitting — 205

removal and refitting — 205

U Universal joints inspection and repair — 106 renewal — 107 US Federal regulations — 47

Starter motor

dismantling — 142 general description — 140 removal and refitting — 142 testing on engine — 142 Suspension and steering fault diagnosis — 192 front axle — 187

Vv Valve lash — 36 Valve lifters examination and renovation — 28 removal — 22 Valves and valve seats — 29 Vehicle identification numbers - 5

front shock absorber — 187

.

front spring — 185 front wheel bearings — 182 front wheel spindles — 182

general description — 182 power steering — 191 power steering gear — 191 power steering pump — 191 radius arm — 185 rear shock absorber — 189 rear suspension — 187 specification — 181 stabilizer bar — 185 steering assembly — 189 steering column — 191 steering gear assembly — 168 steering geometry — 191

WwW Water pump overhaul — 44

removal and refitting — 43 Wheels and tires — 192 Wheel stud — 116 Windshield wipers and washer adjustment — 155 arm— 153 blades — 153 mechanism — 153 motor — 155 nozzles — 155 pivot shafts — 155 reservoir and pump — 155 switch — 155

Printed by Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Yeovil Somerset

England

af

Models

covered

All V8 engined Ford Econoline Vans 302, 351 and 460 cu in

Haynes Manuals Explain Best * Haynes Shop Manuais are the world’s best-selling books on automotive repair and maintenance

* Each book based on the complete teardown and rebuild of the vehicle concerned * Step-by-step instructions linked to hundreds of specially taken ‘how to’ photos, some in color * Most carefully researched with manufacturers, dealers, repair specialists and owners

* More trouble shooting and tune-up data * Tricks of the trade show how to get around using special tools

About this Book Typical contents describe and illustrate the dismantling, inspection, repair and refitting of the following: Engine, Cooling System, Fuel and Emission Control Systems, Exhaust, Ignition System, Clutch, Manual Gearbox, Propeller Shafts or Driveshafts, Braking System, Electrical System, Suspension, Steering, Bodywork and Fittings. Routine Maintenance, complete Specifications and detailed Fault Diagnosis procedures are also included. In the case of rear axle Differential Units and Automatic Transmission (where applicable) the removal, refitting and fault diagnosis procedures only are covered.

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=, Go Haynes-go by The Book = 88" ° #96 3445 POR