Haynes Fiat X1/9 Owners Workshop Manual 0856967173, 9780856967177

Citation preview

1974 thru 1980 78.7

o All

models

cu in (1.3 liter) a 91.4 cu in (1.5 liter)

Owners Workshop Manual

Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2012

http://archive.org/details/fiatx19ownerswor00hayn

FIAT

X1/9

Owners Workshop Manual H Haynes

by J Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

and B Gilmour Models covered

FIAT X19 models, 1290 and 1498 cc (91.44 cu in) All

cc (78.7 cu

in)

85696 717 3

ISBN

© Haynes Publishing Group 1977, 1980, 1981, 1984 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, /ecording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in

writing from the copyright holder.

Printed

in

England (273 - 3K3)

JifTOMCTIVi:

HAYNES PUBLISHING GROUP SPARKFORD YEOVIL SOMERSET BA22 HAYNES PUBLICATIONS LAWRENCE DRIVE NEWBURY PARK 861

CALIFORNIA 91320 USA

INC

.—

7JJ

ENGLAND

Acknowledgements Our thanks to FIAT for assistance with technical information and the supply of certain illustrations. Castrol Limited provided informaon lubrication. The Champion Sparking Plug Company Limited provided the colour

tion

spark plug illustrations

Chapter 4. The bodywork repair photographs used in this manual were supplied by Holt Lloyd Limited who supply Turtle Wax', 'Dupli-Color Holts'

About Its

in

this

who

all

of those people at Sparkford

assisted in the production of this manual. Particularly, Martin

Penny and Leon Martindale who carried out the mechanical work and took the photographs respectively; Ian Robson who planned the layout of each page and the editor. Rod Grainger.

manual

aim

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your car. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.

hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs the garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. However,

yourself.

it is

On

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work. Its

and other Holts range products. Lastly, special thanks are due to

arrangement The manual is divided

into thirteen Chapters, each covering a the vehicle. The Chapters are each divided into Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and the Sections into paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers following on from the Section they are in, eg 5.1 5.2, 5.3 etc. logical sub-division of

,

It

is

freely illustrated, especially in those parts

where there

is

a

two forms numbered in

detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are

of illustration: figures and photographs.

The

figures are

sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the 'left' or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these when notified are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Contents Page

Acknowledgements

2

About

2

this

manual

FIATX1/9

Introductior to the i

5

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

5

Routine maintenance

6

Recommended

9

lubricants and fluids

General dimensions, weights and capacities

10

Tools and working

10

facilities

13

Use of English

Engine

14

Chapter 2

Cooling, heating and exhaust systems

45

Chapter 3

Carburation; fuel and emission control systems

52

Chatper 4

Ignition system

65

Chapter 5

Clutch

73

Chapter 6

Transmission

80

Chapter 7

Driveshafts

94

Chapter 8

Braking system

97

Chapter 9

Steering

Chapter 10

Electrical

Chapter 11

Suspension and wheels

134

Chapter 12

Bodywork and

143

Chapter 13

Supplement: Revisions and information on

Chapter

Safety

Index

1

first

106 system

116

fittings

later

models

157

184 185

Fiat XI/9

1977 European specification model

-

Fiat XI/9

-

Early European specification model

Introduction to the Fiat X1/9 With the introduction of the X1/9, FIAT have produced a small is very different from its competitors. They have departed from the conventional front-engine rear-drive production sports cars and adopted the mid-engined arrangement used on most

body

style.

sports car that

cockpit.

competition cars.

and stored The X1

To meet safety standards, the bodyframe and doors are specially reinforced to offset the loss of rigidity resulting from the 'Targa-Top'

dynamics.

The

A

roll-over bar

is

built into the

fibreglass roof section can easily be

body structure behind the removed by one person

the front luggage compartment. /9's 'wedge' shape not only looks good, but is very functional, providing 7 cu ft of luggage space, and having very good aeroin

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: FIAT and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed FIAT garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your car and are otherwise not generally available (eg; complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under warranty - non-FIAT components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it garages, other garages

will

always be necessary to give the partsman your car's engine

number, chassis number and number

for spares,

and

take the 'old' part along for positive identification.

many

parts are available on a factory

if

possible, to

Remember

exchange scheme

-

that

any parts

obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your car for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. They will also be able to provide their own Fiat service manual for your car should you require one. returned should always be clean!

It

Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg; oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs, fan belts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg; clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/seals and pads etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned

The vehicle

identification plate

front luggage

compartment and

is

located on the right-hand side in the

gives the following information:

Chassis type

Order number for spares (preceded by the North American version) Engine type Paint colour number

letter 'A'

which

identifies the

components on a part exchange amount of money. Vehicle identification

basis

-

this

can save a considerable

numbers

important the appropriate identity number for the model or sub-assembly is quoted when a spare part is ordered. The identification data plates may vary depending on the market. It is

USA Vehicle plate. This luggage compartment.

is

located on the right-hand side

in

the front

Engine type and number. This is stamped on the crankcase at the flywheel end. Chassis type and number. This is stamped on the front luggage compartment cross-rail, right-hand side. Tyre data and capacity. This is located on the right-hand door pillar.

Emission control side of the engine

details. This

is

on

a plate located

on the under-

compartment bonnet.

UK Chassis type

compartment

and number. This

is

stamped on the front luggage

cross-rail, right-hand side.

Engine type flywheel end.

and number. This

is

stamped on the crankcase

at the

Data plate, including type approval reference, chassis type and number, engine type, number for spares and paintwork colour reference. This is located on the right-hand side in the front luggage compartment.

The engine number

is

stamped on the crankcase

at the flywheel

end

The

chassis

number is on the compartment

crossrail in the

front luggage

Tyre data and car capacity right-hand door pillar

opiate

is

on the

Air pollution control specifications for engine tuning and adjustment are on a plate on the underside of the engine bonnet

Routine maintenance when work has 1

to be done. There are jacking points reinforced in the centre of the car at front and rear for a trolley jack. Never put a jack

Introduction In the Sections that

follow are detailed the routine servicing that should be done on the car. This work has the prime aim of doing adjustments and lubrication to ensure the least wear and most efficient function. But there is another important gain. By looking the car over, on top and underneath, you have the opportunity to check that all is in order.

Every component should be looked at, your gaze working systematically over the whole car. Dirt cracking near a nut or a flange can indicate something loose. Leaks will show. Electric cables rubbing, or rust appearing through the underneath paint will all be found before they bring on a failure on the road, or if not tackled quickly, a more expensive repair. Also it prevents the car becoming a danger to yourself or others because of an undetected defect. The tasks to be done are in general those recommended by the maker. But we have also put in some additional ones which will help to keep your car in good order. For someone getting his service done at a garage it may be more cost effective to accept component replacement after a

somewhat short

life in

order to avoid labour costs. For the

home mechanic this tends not to be so. When you are checking the car, and find something

that looks

wrong, look it up in the appropriate Chapter. If something seems to be working badly, look in the fault-finding section.

Always drive the car on a road test after a repair, and then inspect is holding up all right, and check nuts or hose connections tightness. Check again after about another 150 miles (250 km).

the repair for

under the bodywork or the thin sheet steel will buckle. Wheel bolts. These should be cleaned and lightly smeared with grease as necessary during work, to keep them moving easily. If the bolts are stubborn to undo due to dirt and overtightening, it may be necessary to hold them by lowering the jack til the wheel rubs on the ground. Normally if the wheel brace is used across the hub centre, a foot held against the tyre will prevent the wheel from turning, and so save the wheels and bolts from the wear when they are slackened with weight on the wheel. After replacing a wheel make a point later of rechecking again for tightness. Safety. Whenever working, even partially, under the car, put an additional strong support such as a baulk of timber onto which the car will fall rather than onto you. Cleanliness. Keep the mechanical parts of the car clean. It is much more pleasant to work on a clean car. Whenever doing any work, allow time for cleaning. When something is in pieces, components removed improve access to other areas and give an opportunity for a thorough clean. This cleanliness will allow you to cope with a crisis on the road without getting yourself dirty. During bigger jobs when you expect a bit of dirt it is less extreme. When something is taken to pieces there is less risk of ruinous grit getting inside. The act of cleaning focusses your attention on parts, and you are then more likely to spot trouble. Dirt on the ignition parts is a common cause of poor starting. Large areas such as the bulkheads of the engine compartment, should be brushed thoroughly with a detergent like GUNK, allowed to soak for about % hour, then carefully hosed with water. Water in the wrong places, I-

components will do more done with paraffin (kerosene) cleans better, but remember the hazard

particularly the carburettor or electrical

Other aspects of routine maintenance Jacking-up. Always chock a wheel on the opposite side, in front and behind. The car's own jack has to be able to work when the car is very low with a flat tyre, so it goes in a socket on the side, taking up both wheels on that side. Using a small jack at one wheel is more secure

harm than

dirt.

Detailed cleaning can be

and an old paint brush. Petrol and if used in a confined space, of fumes. Use a barrier cream on the hands. Waste disposal. Old oil and cleaning paraffin must be destroyed. It

of fire,

Routine maintenance makes a good base for a bonfire, but is dangerous. Never have an open container near a naked flame. Pour the old oil where it cannot run uncontrolled. Before you light it. Light it by making a 'fuse' of newsone gallon cans you have these for storage not household rubbish, so should not be the dustbin (trash can). Take it to your local garage.

paper. By buying your of the old

put

in

oil.

The old

oil in

oil is

Long journeys. Before taking the car on a long journey, particularly a long holiday trip, do in advance many of the maintenance tasks that would not normally be due before going. In the first instance, do jobs that would be due soon anyway. Then also those that would not come up until well into the trip. Also do the other tasks that are just checks, as a form of insurance against trouble. For emergencies carry on the car some copper wire, plastic insulation tape, plastic petrol pipe, gasket compound, and repair material of the plastics resin type. Carry a spare 'V belt, and some spare bulbs. About 3 ft (0.9 metres) of electric cable, and some odd metric nuts and bolts should complete your car's first aid kit. Also carry a human first aid kit; some plasters, antiseptic ointment, etc., in case you get minor cuts. On purchase. If you have bought your car brand new, you will have the maker's instructions for the early special checks on a new car.

often. A need to top-up frequently indicates a fault in the cooling system, refer to Chapter 2. 3 Check the tyre pressures. This should be done when they are cold. After running a few miles the pressure rises due to the heat generated by their flexing. The tyre pressures cold should be:

5

FMVSS

No.

1

7

Check the engine compartment for Check all lights are in order.

3

Every 3.000 miles (5,000 km)

1

Check the tension of the alternative

6

2

leaks.

just

3

Check the engine oil level. This should be done with the car standing on level ground. Never allow the oil level to fall below the low mark. Do not overfill. Only replenish with the same type of oil as is in the sump. 2 Check the coolant level in the expansion tank. The expansion tank cap should only be removed when the engine is cold. Should it be necessary to remove the cap when the engine is hot, it should be allowed to cool a little, then the pressure should be released by gradually turning the cap, while holding it with some rag to protect the hand. Top-up with coolant. This should not be necessary very

Check the thickness of the

damage. 4 Check the

4

level of the

Check the

level in

mm

disc pads

and the tyres for wear or

windscreen washer reservoir.

Every 6,000 miles (10,000 km)

mm

1 Change the engine oil and filter. Drain the oil when warm. A 12 Allen key is needed to undo the drain plug in the sump. Refit the plug after draining. Remove the splash shield underneath the filter and

place a container under the

I

and dipstick

Chapter 10,

deterioration.

1

oil filler

drivebelt, refer to

7.

Check the car underneath. Jack-up the car and support it securely. Check thoroughly for leaks. Check the constant velocity joints/ steering linkage/suspension rubber boots and caps for damage or

Every 300 miles (500 km) or weekly

Engine

if it is

plates with distilled water.

time tasks are overdue.

2

(2 kg/sq

needed check for leaks. Use only DOT 3 16 specification. Always use new fluid. Top-up the battery, if necessary, to J4 inch (13 mm) above the

regular topping-up: fluid to

Section

you have

cm) cm)

(1.8 kg/sq

4 Check the level of the brake and clutch fluid reservoirs. This can be seen without removing the cap. There should be no need for

bought a second hand car then our advice is to reckon it has not been looked after properly, and so do all the checks, lubrication and other tasks on that basis, assuming all mileages and If

26 psi 28 psi

Front Rear

the brake fluid reservoirs

Use a 12 Allen key to remove the engine sump drain plug

filter,

to catch the

oil,

and unscrew the

1^5 Check the

level in

the clutch fluid reservoir

1

1

Routine maintenance pump: renew

wrench. Smear oil on the new sealing screwing it on hand-tight only. Note: For stop-start driving in town or in dusty areas, change the

as necessary. Refer to Chapter 3, Section 16. Fuel evaporation emission control: check components and renew as necessary. Refer to Chapter 3, Section 14.

engine oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5,000 km). Change the 6 months if the specified mileage is not covered in this time. 2 Change the air cleaner element. Refer to Chapter 3.

9

filter. If

ring

3

and

it

is

fit

Renew

air

tight use a strap

the

new

the fuel

fitted as indicated

8

filter,

filter.

When

fitting a

new

filter,

make

sure

oil

every

10 Check the transmission oil level. Remove the level/filler plug using 12 mm Allen key. Top-up if necessary, use oil in a plastic container

a

it is

by the arrow on the body. Ensure connections are

4 Clean the spark plugs and remove all deposits. Plugs should be cleaned, using a sand blasting machine, hand cleaning is not really thorough enough although better than nothing. Check that the is

as specified for the

make

of plug. Adjust

if

necessary.

Check and adjust the contact breaker gap and lubricate the distributor. Refer to Chapter 4, Sections 2 and 3. 6 Check and reset the ignition timing. Refer to Chapter 4, Section 4. 7 Check and adjust the clutch. Refer to Chapter 5, Section 2. 8 Check the tyres for wear and damage. Look for cracks or bulges on 5

the sidewalls.

9 Inspect the battery terminals and clamps. 10 Lubricate all controls, door and bonnet hinges,

etc., with an oil with engine oil. 1 Check the wheel alignment and adjust, if necessary. Refer to Chapter 9. 1 2 Road test and check operation of engine, transmission, clutch,

can

filled

steering

5 1

2 3 Fit

4 5

filler

hole.

Check the cooling and heating systems hoses and connections. Change hoses which are cracked or spongy. 12 Check the steering for wear. Refer to Chapter 9. 13 Check the suspension for wear and the shock absorbers for proper damping. 14 Check that the brake pads have not worn down to less than 0.06 in (1.5 mm). Renew if necessary. No adjustment is possible, as the wear

and brakes.

Every 12,000 miles (20,000 km) Adjust the valve clearances. Refer to Chapter 1, Section 29. Fit new spark plugs. Clean, check and renew, if necessary, the distributor cap and rotor. new contact breaker assembly. Check the carburettor throttle/choke valves and control linkage,

Change the cartridge in the air pump filter (if fitted). Clean, wash and check the crankcase emission control system. Refer

to Chapter 3, Section 15. 7 Exhaust emission control system: check lines, manifold valves,

Fit the filter the right

way round

taken-up automatically. 15 Check the operation of the handbrake. Adjust the tensioner, if necessary. Access to the tensioner is provided by an opening under the body. 16 Check lubrication of constant velocity joints, add grease if required. Refer to Chapter 7. 17 Check tightness of all body bolts, engine mountings, door locks, is

hinges etc.

adjust as required.

6

so that the tube can be put straight into the 1

tightened.

electrode gap

Check the condition and tightness of vacuum hoses and

connections.

6

Every 24,000 miles (40,000 km)

1

Fuel evaporative emission control system:

the activated

Section 12.

Remove the alternator and clean the commutator, renew the brushes and lubricate the bearings. Refer to Chapter 10, Section 8. 4

5

6 7

and

Renew

carbon trap. Refer to Chapter 3, Section 14. 2 Change the transmission oil. 3 Remove the starter motor. Clean the commutator, renew the brushes, and lubricate the bearings and drive. Refer to Chapter 10,

Clean the carburettor. Refer to Chapter 3. Reset the toothed drivebelt tension. Refer to Chapter 1 Section Change the brake fluid and bleed the brake system, refer to ,

Chapter

8.

Unscrew the wing nut, remove the cover and change the air pump filter cartridge

The handbrake adjusting nut from underneath the car

is

5.

accessible

Change the transmission oil A - Drain plug B - Filler/level plug. Use a 12 mm Allen key when removing plugs

5

Recommended Component

Engine

or

system

4

lubricants

fluids

Lubricant type or specification

SAE

(1)

and

1

5W/40 multigrade engine oil VS+ Supermultigrado)

Castrol

recommendation

Castrol

GTX

Castrol

GTX

Castrol

MS3

(Olio Fiat

Gearbox and

final drive (2)

SAE 80W/90

- not hypoid EP

oil

(Olio Fiat Tutela

ZC 90) molybdenum

Constant velocity joints

Lithium based grease with

(outer) (3)

disulphide (Fiat Tutela

Brake

Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 3 and SAE J 1703 (Fiat Tutela DOT 3)

fluid reservoirs (4)

Clutch fluid reservoir

(5)

Hydraulic

fluid to

FMVSS

116 DOT 3 and SAE (Fiat Tutela

DOT

MRM

J

1703

Castrol Girling Universal Brake

and Clutch Fluid

Castrol Girling Universal Brake

and Clutch Fluid

3)

Note The above are general recommendations only. Lubrication requirements vary from territory doubt, consult the operator's handbook supplied with the vehicle, or your nearest dealer. :

If in

grease

2)

to territory

and depend on

vehicle usage.

1

General dimensions, weights and capacities Dimensions and weights* Length

Width Height

Wheelbase Track (front) Track (rear) Kerb weight

Due

to differing specifications

Capacities Engine sump and Cooling system Fuel tank

f

according to operating territory, the

3830 mm (150.93 in) 1570 mm (61.8 in) 1170 mm (46.1 in) 2202 mm (86.7 in) 1335 mm (52.5 in) 1343 mm (52.9 in) 880 kg (1940 lbs) above dimensions and weights are given only

Iter

...

Transmission Steering

box

as a guide.

Litres

Imp. units

US

4.25

7.4 pts

4 1/3 qts

6.5

1

49

1 1

3.15 0.14

5 3/4 pts 0.25 pts

.5 pts

gals

units

7 qts

12 gals 3

1/3 qts

1/3 pt

Tyre pressures 26 28

Front (cold) Rear (cold)

kg/sq cm) kg/sq cm!

psi (1.8 psi (2

Tools and working facilities Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help

the average

owner to decide which

tools are needed to

we have compiled Maintenance and

carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual,

three

minor

lists

of tools under the following headings:

and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to mechanics should start off with the 'Maintenance and minor repair' tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence grows, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a 'Maintenance and minor repair' tool kit can be built-up into a 'Repair and overhaul' tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the 'Special' category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use these tools will be put to. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled 'How to Choose and Use Car Tools' available from the publishers of this manual. repair. Repair

practical

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

The tools

given

in this list

Combination spanners

10, 11, 13, 14,

1

7

mm

Adjustable spanner 9 inch Engine sump/gearbox /rear axle drain key (where applicable) Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges

Brake bleed nipple spanner Screwdriver - 4 in. long x V* in. dia. (plain) Screwdriver 4 in. long x V* in. dia. (crosshead) Combination pliers 6 inch Hacksaw, junior Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Grease gun (where applicable) Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small)

Funnel (medium

size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a

motor

vehicle,

and are additional to those given

in

the Basic

Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile particularly if varous drives are included in the set. We recommend the H in square-drive, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then list.

inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools

from the Special

list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range 6 to 27 Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) 'Mole' wrench Ball pein

mm

8 inch

hammer

Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber Screwdriver - 6 in. long x 5/16 in. dia. (plain) Screwdriver - 2 in. long x 5/16 in. square (plain) 1 in. dia (crosshead) Screwdriver - 1 % in. long x A Screwdriver 3 in. long x 1/8 in. dia. (electricians) electricians side cutters

Pliers

Pliers

-

needle nosed

Tools and working

Pliers

-

circlip (internal

Cold chisel

inch can be

and external)

Use of tools Throughout

'A

Scriber (this

made by

grinding the

end of a broken hacksaw

blade)

Scraper (this can be made by flattening piece of copper pipe) Centre punch

and sharpening one end of a

punch Hacksaw

Pin

Valve grinding tool Steel rule/straight edge

Allen keys Selection of

files

Wire brush (large) Axle stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with

make

friends (or a motorists club) to

from

tools against a deposit

The following

list

a joint purchase, or

borrowing the

contains only those tools and instruments freely and not those special tools produced by the

available to the public,

its

dealer network.

You

will find

occasional references to these manufacturers special tools in the text of

manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed you will have to entrust this

the vehicle manufacturers special tool

the

work

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring compressor Ball joint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver Micrometer and/or vernier gauge

are

"Drive out the bearing". "Undo the flange bolts evenly and diagonally". When two parts are held together by a number of bolts round their edge, these must be tightened to draw the parts down together flat. They must be slackened evenly to prevent the component warping. Initially the bolts should be put in finger-tight only. Then they should be tightened gradually, at first only a turn each; and diagonally, doing second the one opposite that tightened first, then one to a side, followed by another opposite that, and so on. The second time each bolt is tightened only half a turn should be given. The third time round, only quarter of a turn is given each, and this is kept up till tight. The reverse sequence is used to slacken them. If any part has to be 'driven', such as a ball bearing out of its housing, without a proper press, it can be done with a hammer provided a few rules for use of a hammer are remembered. Always keep the component being driven straight so it will not jam. Shield whatever is being hit

from damage by the hammer. Soft headed hammers are available. A drift can be used, or if the item being hit is soft, use wood. Aluminium very easily damaged. Steel is a bit better. Hard steel, such as a bearing race, is very strong. Something threaded at the end must be protected by fitting a nut. But do not hammer the nut: the threads will tear. levering items with makeshift arrangement, such as screwdrivers, damage can be done. Be sure the lever rests either on

something that does not matter, or put in padding. Burrs can be filed off afterwards. But indentations are there for good, and can cause leaks. When holding something in a vice, the jaws must go on a part that is strong. If the indentation from the jaw teeth will matter, then lead or fibre jaw protectors must be used. Hollow sections are liable to be crushed.

Nuts that will not undo will sometimes move if the spanner handle extended with another. But only extend a ring spanner, not an open jaw one. A hammer blow either to the spanner, or the bolt, may jump it out of its contact: the bolt locally welds itself in place. In extreme cases the nut will undo if driven off with drift and hammer. When reassembling such bolts, tighten them normally, not by the method needed to undo them. For pressing things, such as a sleeve bearing into

Lifting tackle

make good

its

housing, a

presses. Pressing tools

component can be arranged by using such things as socket spanners, or short lengths of steel water pipe. Long bolts with washers can be used to draw things into place rather than pressing to hold each

them. There are often several ways of doing something. If stuck, stop and think. Special tools can readily be made out of odd bits of scrap. Accordingly, at the same time as building up a tool kit, collect useful bits of steel.

Trolley jack Light with extension lead

Normally all nuts or bolts have some locking arrangement. The most common is a spring washer. There are tab washers that are bent up. Castellated nuts have split pins. FIAT use special collared nuts on

Buying tools tools, a tool factor

is

the best source since he will

have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don't have to buy the most expensive items on the

but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around, at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

shelf,

the suspension stub axles that are staked to the axle. Sometimes a second nut locks the first. Self-locking nuts have special crowns that

shaking loose. Self-locking nuts should not be reused, as the is weakened as soon as they have been loosened at all. Tab washers should only be re-used when they can be bent over in a new place. If you find a nut without any locking arrangement, check resist

self-locking action

what

it is

meant to have.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool the tools

in a

kit,

it

is

necessary to keep

clean and serviceable condition. After use, always wipe

any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have

off

A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, been used.

etc.,

must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become

rusty.

Take

a little care

Hammer heads inevitably keen edge on their blades from timely attention with emery cloth or a file will

when the

tools are used.

become marked and screwdrivers time-to-time.

A

little

soon restore items

like this to a

lose the

good serviceable

finish.

is

irretrievable

vice, or an electric drill stand,

Carburettor flow balancing device (where applicable) Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing Ugh t Dwell angle meter /tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge

all

book various phrases describing techniques

is

to a franchised garage.

For practically

this

used, such as:

If

a local garage or tool hire specialist.

vehicle manufacturer specifically for

11

facilities

Working

facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstance to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Whenever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space

is

also required for tools, as well as the lubricants,

Tools and working

12 cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on which soon

become

necessary.

Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 5/16 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as wing mirrors and reversing lights.

Last but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers clean, lint-free rags available,

and

try to keep

any working area as

clean as possible.

Spanner jaw gap comparison

Jaw gap 0.250 0.276 0.313 0.315 0.344 0.354 0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438 0.445 0.472 0.500 0.512 0.525 0.551 0.562 0.591

0.600 0.625 0.630 0.669 0.686 0.709 0.710

(in)

Spanner in

i

mm

^

in

8

mm in

9

mm

|

in

1

1

in

Whitworth

AF

in

AF

in

Whitworth; }

12

\

1.181

mm mm

1 1

size

AF; £

3

1

mm

1.811

1.813 1.860 1.875 1.969

in

Whitworth; f

f

in

AF

1

7

BSF

AF

|

16

in

1.200 1.250 1.260 1.300 1.313 1.390 1.417 1.438 1.480 1.500 1.575 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.688

mm

in

5

BSF

AF

} in Whitworth; ^ 14 mm

£

in

mm

in

0.748 0.750 0.813 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.937 0.945 1.000 1.010 1.024 1.063 1.100 1.125

AF

s

4 ^

table

AF

7

and

facilities

in

BSF

mm mm

y in AF 18 mm | in Whitworth, A

in

BSF

2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

mm

19

i 1 j|

in

AF AF

in

Whitworth; £

in

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

in

BSF

{§

in

BSF

1

in

BSF

mm

22 i

in

AF

j

in

Whitworth; £

H

in

AF

24

mm

1

in

AF

£

in

Whitworth; f

26

mm

AF; 27 mm Whitworth; jj

1A, in

|

in

AF

1£

in

30

mm

j£

Whitworth; $

in

1|

in

AF

32 mm £ in Whitworth; | 1* j§

in

Whitworth;

in

36

AF

mm

1£ in AF £ in Whitworth; 14- in

AF

40 mm; If 1

j|

in

Whitworth

mm

41

in

in

1«

AF

Whitworth; 1£

in

in

BSF

AF

46 mm S'n AF 1£ 1|

in

Whitworth; 1|

in

AF

50

mm

2

in

in

BSF

in

BSF

AF

14

in

55 60

mm mm

Whitworth; 1|

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list will probably use these words:

English

American

English

American

Aerial

Antenna Gas pedal

Layshaft (of gearbox) Leading shoe (of brake)

Countershaft Primary shoe Latches Freeway, turnpike etc License plate

Accelerator Alternator Anti-roll bar Battery

Generator (AC)

Locks

Energizer

Motorway Number plate

Bodywork

Sheet metal

Paraffin

Kerosene

Bonnet (engine cover) Boot lid Boot (luggage compartment) Bottom gear Bulkhead

Hood

Petrol

Trunk lid Trunk 1st gear

Gasoline Gas tank

'Pinking'

Stabiliser or

sway bar

Petrol tank

Firewall

Cam

Valve lifter or tappet Carburetor Latch

follower or tappet Carburettor

Catch Choke/venturi

Pinging' Driveshaft

Propeller shaft

Quarter light Retread Reverse Rocker cover

Quarter

Valve cover Car-top carrier

Roof rack Saloon

Barrel

window

Recap Back-up

Sedan

Crownwheel

Snap-ring Lash Ring gear

Disc (brake)

Rotor/disk

Seized Side indicator lights Side light

Drop arm Drop head coupe

Pitman arm

Silencer

Frozen Side marker lights Parking light Muffler

Convertible

Spanner

Wrench

Dynamo

Generator (DC)

Sill

Earth (electrical)

Ground

Engineer's blue Estate car

Station

Exhaust manifold Fast back (Coupe)

Header Hard top

Tab washer

Fault finding/diagnosis

Trouble shooting

Tailgate

Liftgate

Tappet

Valve

Throw-out bearing High

Piston pin or wrist pin

Thrust bearing Top gear Trackrod (of steering)

Shift

Trailing

Circlip

Clearance

Float

panel (beneath doors) Rocker panel Split cotter (for valve spring cap) Lock (for valve spring retainer) Split pin Cotter pin Steering arm Spindle arm

Prussian blue

chamber

Float

wagon

Sump

bowl

Lash Coast

Free-play

Freewheel

Gudgeon

(of differential

pin

Gearchange Gearbox

Oil pan Tang; lock

lifter

Tie-rod (or connecting rod)

Secondary shoe

shoe (of brake) Transmission

Whole

Axleshaft Parking brake Soft top

Tyre

Tire

Van

Wheel nut

Indicator

Heat riser Turn signal

Panel wagon/van Vise Lug nut

Interior light

Dome lamp

Wing/mudguard

Transmission

Halfshaft

Handbrake

Hood Hot spot

Vice

Windscreen

drive line

Windshield Fender

Miscellaneous points An

'oil

seal' is fitted to

A damper'

is

a

components

shock absorber',

lubricated by grease!

it

damps

out bouncing, and absorbs shocks of

bump

impact. Both

names

are correct, and both are used

haphazardly.

Note that British drum brakes are different from the Bendix type that is common in America, so different descriptive names result. The shoe end furthest from the hydraulic wheel cylinder is on a pivot; interconnection between the shoes as on Bendix brakes is most uncommon. Therefore the phrase Primary' or Secondary' shoe does not apply. A shoe is said to be Leading' or Trailing'. A Leading' shoe is one on which a point on the drum, as it rotates forward, reaches the shoe at the end worked by the hydraulic cylinder before the anchor end. The opposite is a Trailing' shoe, and this one has no self servo from the wrapping effect of the rotating drum.

5

Chapter

1

Engine

For modifications, and information applicable to

later models, see

Supplement at end of manual

Contents

Auxiliary shaft

-

examination

Auxiliary shaft

-

refitting

Camshaft and tappets -examination Crankshaft and bearings - overhaul

17

Engine Engine Engine

14

Fault diagnosis

23 28

Flywheel and starter ring gear - overhaul Flywheel, clutch and crankshaft pulleys - refitting General description Lubrication system - general description Major operations possible with engine in car ... Major operations requiring engine removal Minor components and ancillaries - refitting ... Oil pump and sump - refitting ... Oil pump -overhaul Pistons and connecting rod assemblies - refitting Refitting the transmission to the engine Toothed drivebelt - removal, refitting and adjusting Valve clearances - adjustment ...

18

...

25 ...

Crankshaft - refitting Cylinder head and camshaft housing - refitting Cylinder head and valves - overhaul Cylinder head - removal and refitting (engine in car) Cylinders, pistons and connecting rods - overhaul Drivebelt tensioner - examination and servicing Engine ancillaries - removal Engine and transmission - separating ... Engine - dismantling (general) ... Engine -dismantling procedure Engine - initial start-up after overhaul Engine mountings - examination Engine - reassembly (general) ...

12

4 13

19 10 8

9 11

33

20 22

-

refitting in car

-

removal procedure removal (general)

-

32

...

7

6 34

...

15

27

.

1

21

2 3

30

26 16 24 31

5

29

Specifications

Engine (general) Type

128 AS. 040. 3.38 in (86 mm) 2.19 in (55.5 mm) 78.7 cu in (1290 cc)

Bore Stroke Cubic capacity ... Compression ratio Firing order

Power (SAE

9.2 1

-

1

:

3

75bhp

net)

-

4 - 2 (No (DIN)

1

at timing belt end)

mm

Cylinder block

in

Cylinder bore diameter (standard)

86.000 to 86.050

Cylinder bore diameter grading intervals

3.3858 to 3.3878 0.0004

Rebore

0.008-0.016-0.024

0.01

0.4

0.6

Maximum

0.024

0.2 0.6

end diameter ... Length of rear main bearing seat between thrust ring seats

.5236 to 1 .5248 .3794 to 1 .3805 0.8716 to 0.8740

38.700 to 38.730 35.036 to 35.066 22.140 to 22.200

Connecting rods

in

mm

1.9146 to 1.9152 0.9425 to 0.9438 - 0.020 - 0.030 -0.040 0.01 0.0004 to 0.0006

48.630 to 48.646 23.939 to 23.972 0.254 -0.508 -0.762 -1 016 0.010 to 0.016

0.0014 to 0.0034

0.036 to 0.086

+ 0.0039

+ 0.10

sizes

rebore Auxiliary shaft bushing seats: Drive end diameter ... Inside

Big-end bearing housing diameter Small end bore diameter

Range of undersize big-end bearings for service

Gudgeon

pin clearance

...

1

1

-

-

Big-end bearings: Fit clearance

...

Maximum

misalignment between C/Ls of connecting rod small-end and big-end -measured at 4.92 in (125 mm) from the shank

Crankshaft and main bearings

in

Main bearing journal: Standard diameter ... Main bearing seat bore Main bearings, thickness (standard) Main bearing undersizes for service Crankpin standard diameter Main bearing to journal fit:

1.9994 to 2.0002 2.1459 to 2.1465 0.0718 to 0.0721 Std. -0.01 -0.02-0.03 1.7913 to 1.7920

Clearance of

new

parts

0.001 6 to 0.0033

50.785 to 50.805 54.507 to 54.520 1.825 to 1.831 0.04

Std.

-0.254-0.508

45.498 to 45.518 0.040 to 0.085

0.762 -1.106

Chapter

1

15

/Engine 0.0959 to 0.0979

2.437 to 2.487

0.0021 to 0.0104

0.055 to 0.265

in

mm

0.0039

0.10

out of true

0.0039

0.10

Pistons and gudgeon pins Diameter of standard service pistons, measured at right-angles to C/L

in

mm

Oversize thrust rings, thickness Crankshaft endfloat: Thrust rings fitted (new parts)

Flywheel Parallel relationship of driven plate face to

mounting face: maximum out of true Squareness of above faces to rotation axis:

of

gudgeon pin Class

A

Class

C

at

1

mm) from

.08 in (27.5

crankshaft

maximum

skirt edge:

.'.

Class E

Oversize piston range Piston boss bore diameter:

Grade 1 Grade 2

3.3827 to 3.3831 3.3835 to 3.3839 3.3842 to 3.3846 0.0079-0.0157 -0.0236

85.920 to 85.930 85.940 to 85.950 85.960 to 85.970

0.8660 to 0.8661 0.8661 to 0.8662

21 .996 to 21.999 21.999 to 22.002

0.604 to 0.061 0.0799 to 0.0807 0.1562 to 0.1570

2.030 to 2.050 3.967 to 3.987

0.2

-

0.4

0.6

-

Piston ring groove width:

Top groove

...

Centre groove Bottom groove Standard gudgeon pin diameter:

0.8658 to 0.8659 0.8659 to 0.8660 0.0079

Grade 1 Grade 2 Oversize gudgeon pin

1

.535 to

1

.555

21.991 to 21 .994 21.994 to 21.997 0.2

Piston ring thickness:

0.0582 to 0.0587 0.0778 to 0.0783 0.1544 to 0.1549

First: compression ring Second: oil ring Third: oil ring with oilways and expander Piston fit in bore (at right-angles to gudgeon pin and 1.08 in (27.5 mm) from piston skirt edge). Clearance

of

new

1 1

.478 to .978 to

1 1

.490 .990

3.925 to 3.937

0.0021 to 0.0028

0.050 to 0.070

end gap (in bore): First: compression ring Second: oil ring

0.01 18 to 0.0177 0.01 18 to 0.0177

Third:

0.0098 to 0.0157

0.30 to 0.45 0.30 to 0.45 0.25 to 0.40

parts

Piston ring

oil ring

Piston ring

fit (side

clearance):

0.0018 to 0.0030 0.0016 to 0.0028 0.0008 to 0.0024

First: compression ring Second: oil ring

Third: scraper ring

0.045 to 0.077 0.040 to 0.072 0.020 to 0.062

Oversize piston ring range:

0.0079-0.0157 -0.0236

0.2-0.4-0.6

Cylinder head

in

mm

Valve guide bore Outside diameter of valve guide Inside diameter of valve guide fitted in cylinder head Valve guide fit in cylinder head (interference)

0.5886 to

Compression and oilways

...

0.5921

0.3158 0.0025 0.31 39 0.0012 45° + 5' 45° 30' + 5

Valve stem diameter Valve stem fit in valve guide (new parts) Valve seat angle ...

Valve face angle ... Valve head diameter: Inlet

Exhaust Maximum run-out on a full turn at centre of contact face Width of valve seat (contact surface): Inlet and exhaust (approx.) Lift on C/L of valve (without play) Diameter of tappet bores in camshaft housing Outside diameter of tappets Clearance between tappet and bore

5896 to 0. 5928 to 0, 3165 to 0043 toO 3146 toO 0026 0.

...

14550

to

14577

15.040 to 15.058 8.022 to 8.040 0.063 to 0.108 7.974 to 7.992 0.030 to 0.066

36 + 0.15

1.4173 + 0.0059 1 .2205 + 0.0059 0.0012

0.03

0.0787 0.3839 1.4567 to 1.4577 1 .4557 to 1 .4565 0.0002 to 0.0020

2 9.75 37.000 to 37.025 36.975 to 36.995 0.005 to 0.050

0.016 0.020

0.40 0.50

1.417 1.220

36

1.1807 to 1.1817 1.8890 to 1.8900

29.989 to 30.014 47.908 to 48.005

31

+0.15

Valve clearance (cold): Inlet

Exhaust Valve springs: Height under load of 85.5 lb (38.9 kg). Outer spring Height under load of 32.71 lb (14.9 kg). Inner spring

31

Camshaft Diameter of bores Drive end

in

housing:

Intermediate, drive end

Chapter

16

1

/Engine 1.8968 to 1.8978 1 .9047 to 1 .9057 1.9126 to 1.9136

Middle Intermediate, flywheel end

Flywheel end Diameter of camshaft journals: Drive end Intermediate, drive end Middle Intermediate, flywheel end Flywheel end Clearance between bores and camshaft journals: Drive end Intermediate, drive end Middle Intermediate, flywheel end Flywheel end

1.1789 1.8872 1.8951 1 .9030 1.9108 0.001

1

0.0012 0.0012 0.0012 0.0012

48.180 to 48.205 48.380 to 48.405 48.580 to 48.605

29.944 47.935 48.135 48.335 48.535

to 1.1795 to 1.8878 to 1.8957 to

1

.9035

to 1.9114

to 0.0028 to 0.0028 to

0.029 0.030 0.030 0.030 0.030

0.0028

to 0.0028 to 0.0028

29.960 47 .950 to 48.150 to 48.350 to 48.550 to to

to 0.070

to 0.070

0.070 0.070 to 0.070 to to

Valve timing:

Opens 12° btdc, closes 52° abdc Opens 52° bbdc, closes 12° atdc

Inlet

Exhaust

For valve timing check set valve clearances to 0.020

in

(0.50

mm)

Auxiliary shaft Inside diameter of bushings finished in bores:

Drive end Inside

end

Diameter of shaft journals: Drive end Inside end Fit between bushings and bores in crankcase Clearance between bushings and journals: Drive end Inside end Oil

.4049 .2606

35.664 to 35.684 32.000 to 32.020

1.4013 to 1.4023 1.2575 to 1.2583

35.593 to 35.618 31.940 to 31.960

1

.4041 to

1

1

.2598 to

1

Interference

fit

at

all

times

0.0018 to 0.0036 0.0016 to 0.0031

pump

0.046 to 0.091 0.040 to 0.080

in

Gear 0.0008 to 0.0041 0.0043 to 0.0071

Type End-clearance, gears to cover Side-clearance, gear to housing

...

1.101 to 1.102 Interference fit

Length of new gear Driven gear shaft to housing Driven gear fit on shaft ... Clearance pump driveshaft to housing Oil pressure at 185°F (85°C)

Torque wrench

0.020 to 0.105 0.11 to 0.18 27.967 to 28.0

0.015 to 0.055 0.0006 to 0.0022 0.015 to 0.058 0.0006 to 0.0023 64 to 85.4 psi (4.5 to 6 kg/sq cm)

settings:

Ibf

kgf

ft

Bolt, flywheel to crankshaft

61

Nut, connecting-rod caps Bolt, camshaft pulley Cylinder head nuts and bolts (oiled threads): M12 (19 hexagon): Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 M10 (17 hexagon):

36

5

61

8.5

29 47

6.5

69

9.5

15

2 4

8.5

mm

4

mm

Stage

1

Stage 2 Tighten a further 180°

29 in

2 stages

Nut, camshaft housing ... Bolt, main bearing caps ... Nut, crankshaft drive pulley

The FIAT X1/9 engine is transversely mounted just ahead of the rear wheels and inclined forward at an angle of 11°. It is a four cylinder, in-line, water cooled engine with an overhead camshaft which is driven by a rubber toothed drive belt from a gear on the crankshaft. 2 The cylinder block is cast iron and the head aluminium. The camshaft runs in bearings in a housing that is an extension of the cylinder head, with the cams operating directly on the tappets. There are five main bearings supporting the crankshaft. An auxiliary shaft, supported in bearings in the block, drives the distributor, the oil pump and, if fitted, the mechanical fuel pump. On some engines the distributor is mounted at the left-hand end of the engine and driven by the camshaft. 1

4.5

25

3.5

18

2.5 1.5

11

On

fitted with an air injection emission control system an air pump is mounted on the right-hand end of the engine and is belt driven from a pulley on the camshaft. The water pump and alternator are driven by a 'V belt from a pulley on the crankshaft. 4 The transmission is fitted to the left end of the engine. Though it is integral with the engine, the transmission has separate lubrication. 5 Fitted under the engine are protective shields to keep off dirt. These must be removed for many jobs. The alternator is protected from

3

General description

2

8 14

101 32.5

Nut, belt tensioner bearing Nut/bolt engine mounting, right end ... Bolt, engine mounting bracket to body Bolt, engine torque rod ...

1

14.5

58

cars for the North

American market

the heat of the exhaust by a heat shield.

2

Major operations possible with engine

in

car

The following major operations can be carried out with the engine in

place

in

the car:

17

Fig. 1.1. Cross-section of

engine for North-American market

-

fitted with air

pump

for exhaust emission control system

18

Fig. 1.2. Longitudinal section of engine

J

Chapter Removal and refitting of Removal and refitting of 3 Removal and refitting of 4 Removal and refitting of (not recommended). 1

2

the camshaft housing. the toothed drivebelt. the cylinder head. the sump, pistons and connecting rods

1

/Engine

19

not prise at the joint. Turning the engine on the starter might start

Also rock

that will

it

show the engine condition.

25 Peel off the old cylinder head gasket. Take care no carbon 3

falls into

Major operations requiring engine removal

the cylinders.

The engine must be removed from the car to carry out the following

26 If the 'crow's foot' spanners were available, the head should be removed with the camshaft still in place on the head, and the carburettor on the manifold, and these removed more easily later on

operations:

2

Removal and Removal and

4

Cylinder head

1

it

by pulling up on the manifolds and thermostat. 24 Lift off the cylinder head. Put it where the carbon will not get wet or knocked off, so that you can have a chance to look at it for signs

off.

the bench.

refitting of crankshaft. refitting of

27 Remove the manifolds from the head, by removing the nuts and

main bearings.

large thick washers. -

removal and refitting (engine

in car)

28 For the decarbonising of the engine, and work on the

valves, refer

to Section 12.

Drain the cooling system and remove the air cleaner, as described Chapters 2 and 3. 2 Disconnect the two fuel hoses from the carburettor and pull the hoses and grommets out of their support bracket. 3 Slide the spring clip down off the ball connector for the accelerator rod and disconnect the rod from the ball connector. Disconnect the choke cable. 4 Disconnect the spark plug cables. If the distributor is fitted at the rear of the camshaft remove the distributor cap and leads. 5 Disconnect the vacuum hose for the distributor from the fitting in the cylinder head. 6 Remove the stop bolt from the accelerator cable, slide the seal off the cable and remove the clip holding the cable on the valve cover. Remove the cable and tuck it out of the way. 7 Disconnect the water outlet and inlet hoses, the water pump to thermostat housing hose and the expansion tank hose from the thermostat housing. 8 On cars with fuel vapour and exhaust emission control systems, note the run of the hoses and disconnect them from the carburettor and air pump. 9 Remove the bolt holding the torque rod on its bracket on the cylinder head and swing it out of the way. 10 Remove the bolts securing the right-hand protective shield from under the car. 1

in

Remove

One bolt is reached from underneath from where the protective shield was removed. 12 To remove the toothed drivebelt, take the tension off the belt by 11

the drivebelt cover.

the car, accessible

slackening the nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley. Lever the pulley against its spring, away from the belt, with a long screwdriver

and retighten the nut. Slip the belt off the camshaft pulley and leave it round the crankshaft. 13 Loosen the alternator bottom pivot bolt and the bolt attaching the alternator to the adjusting bracket. Remove the alternator and water

pump drivebelt. 14 On engines with

an air pump, loosen the pump pivot bolts, under which mount the two brackets, swing the pump towards the camshaft pulley and remove the pump drivebelt. 15 Remove the inside guard for the drivebelt, one bolt is just below the tensioner pulley and the nuts are behind the camshaft pulley. 16 Remove the manifold shield by removing the four nuts securing the bolts

it

to the manifold.

17 can

If

the special 'crow's foot' spanners are available, the cylinder head be removed. But it is assumed these are not, so proceed as

now

follows.

29 Refitting is the reverse of the removal sequence. Tighten the cylinder head holding down nuts and bolts in stages to the specified torque (see Fig. 1.23).

30 Check the

5

Toothed drivebelt

-

removal, refitting and adjusting

If adjustment is required or the belt removed for any reason, always replace the belt with a new one, never adjust using the old belt. The toothed drivebelt should be renewed at 36,000 miles (60,000 1 km). This can be done with the engine in the car. 2 Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut turn the engine over till the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the TDC mark. 3 Check that the camshaft pulley timing mark is aligned with the cast pointer of the engine mounting support, visible through the hole in the timing cover. 4 Put the car in gear and apply the handbrake to prevent the engine from being turned further. Note if the engine is turned over with the drivebelt removed, the pistons may hit the valves and cause serious damage. 5 Remove the drive belt cover, alternator/water pump drivebelt and, if

fitted, air

pump

drivebelt, as described

in

Section 4.

6 Slacken the nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley and push in on the support to release the tension on the belt, then retighten the nut. Slide the drivebelt off the pulleys. Fit the new belt. Start at the crankshaft drive pulley and taking care not to kink or strain the belt, slip it over the camshaft pulley.

7

The camshaft may have to be turned

slightly to

mesh the pulley with

the teeth on the belt. Fit the belt on the tensioner pulley last, if this is difficult, do not lever or force the belt on, recheck the belt. 8 Slacken the tensioner pulley locknut to tension the belt, then retighten the nut.

Take the car out of gear, and rotate the engine through half a turn. Slacken the tensioner pulley nut, to remove any slack on the belt, and then retighten the nut to 32.5 lb ft (4.5 kg f m). When tensioning the belt, never turn the engine backwards or rock the crankshaft as slack will develop in the belt and it may jump a tooth. 10 Refit and tension the alternator/water pump drivebelt as described 9

in 1

18 Take off the two water pipes to the carburettor, at the thermostat, and at the manifold. Remove the carburettor by undoing the two nuts holding it to the manifold. Unclamp the drip tray pipe at the left end

valve tappet clearance, as described in Section 29.

Chapter 10, Section

7.

Refit the drivebelt for the air

pump

(if

fitted).

12 Refit the drivebelt cover.

of the exhaust manifold: take off the tray.

19 Remove the camshaft housing cover.

6

20 Remove the camshaft housing from the cylinder head. Slacken all the nuts evenly and gradually. The valve springs will push the whole assembly upwards. One row of nuts is on the outside of the housing, to the rear, whilst the front ones are inside

it.

camshaft housing carefully, as the tappets and the tappet adjustment shims will be loose. Keep each in its proper place: turn the housing upside down as quickly as possible to keep them in, by tilting the top towards the front of the car. 22 Slacken the cylinder head nuts and bolts gradually, and in reverse order to the tightening sequence given in Fig. 1.23. Start at the outer ends and slacken inwards. 23 Now break the joint between the cylinder head and the block. Do 21

Lift off the

Engine

-

removal (general)

The engine and transmission are removed as a unit, it is not possible remove the engine separately although the transmission can be removed without the engine. 2 The engine/transmission can be removed in about four hours. It will be necessary to have a hoist, jack and two axle stands or a supply of good solid wooden blocks as the rear of the car has to be supported high enough to allow the engine to be removed from underneath the 1

to

rear of the car.

3

When

the rear of the car

to be pulled

placed

in

is

from underneath,

the front luggage

raised high

enough to allow the engine

recommended that a weight be compartment to provide stability. it

is

1

Chapter

20

1

/Engine

7

Engine

-

removal procedure

Disconnect the leads from the battery in the front luggage compart1 ment. 2 Jack-up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands at the jacking points and remove the rear wheels. Drain the cooling system, as described in Chapter 2, Section 2. If 3 the coolant has recently been renewed, drain it into a clean container for possible re-use.

4

Remove

the drain plug from the engine

sump and

drain the

a container. After draining, refit the plug to prevent residual oil

Remove

rt

i

the protection shields from under the engine

Oil

into

from

draining out as the engine iswnoved. If the transmission has to be dismantled drain it as well. 5 Remove the engine bonnet and the rear luggage compartment lid, as described in Chapter 12. 6 Remove the protective shields from under the car, three from the bottom of the engine compartment and one inboard of each rear wheel. Remove the alternator head shield. 7 Disconnect the engine breather hose from the air cleaner and remove the cleaner as described in Chapter 3, Section 6. 8 If an air injection exhaust control emission system is fitted, disconnect the hose from the air injection valve, the air pump and the hose between the air pump and filter. 9 Disconnect the heater hoses from the cylinder head and the water pump. Disconnect the radiator flow and return hoses and remove them. 10 Disconnect the plug from the alternator. Disconnect the leads from the starter motor. 1 Disconnect the ignition leads from the spark plugs, and the lead from the centre of the coil. Unclip the distributor cap and remove it, to prevent possible damage to it as the engine is removed, Disconnect the low tension lead at the distributor. 12 Unplug the lead from the temperature sender unit on the front of the cylinder head. 13 Unplug the leads from the oil pressure sender units on the front of the crankcase.

14 Disconnect the choke linkage from the carburettor. 15 Disconnect the throttle cables from the carburettor, free the cables from their support on top of the camshaft housing and tuck them out of the

7.6b This one

7.6c

The

shroud

is

under the alternator

alternator heat shield (not fitted

fitted

on the exhaust manifold)

way.

16 Remove the screw from the clamp which holds the fuel lines to the front bulk head. Disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses, plug the ends to prevent the ingress of dirt, and tuck them to the side, out of the way. 17 Remove the bolts holding the expansion tank at the top and bottom. Lift the tank to allow any coolant to drain into the engine. Disconnect the hoses at the thermostat housing and remove the tank. 18 Remove the split pin holding the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder operating rod in the clutch shaft. Disconnect the return spring. 19 Slacken the bleed screw on the slave cylinder and push the rod

on engines having

a heat

7.9a Disconnect the heater hoses from the water

head

pump and

cylinder

7.9bDisconnect the engine to radiator hoses the water manifold ...

7.9c

...

and

at the

7.10a Disconnect the alternator

connection under the car

...

at

*

10b

...

and the

starter

motor

7.12 Unplug the lead from the water temperature sender ...

7.1 3a ... and from the sender

oil

pressure warning

r^El \

^"^2 m

i**^^ ^^^^*"^

y* 7.1

3b The

oil

pressure gauge sender has also to

be disconnected

7.1 7 Lift

out the expansion tank

7.1

~5

s

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to

recirculate gases from the exhaust manifold back through the intake manifold and into the cylinders where they will be reburned.

Because oxides of nitrogen (NOx) take place during the combustion process only at very high temperatures, the EGR system is designed to reduce the amount of NOx formed by lowering the peak temperatures in the combustion chamber 2 The EGR circuit includes a line that runs from the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. Located along this line is the EGR valve which regulates the flow of gases between the manifolds. This EGR valve is controlled by a combination of exhaust gas back pressure and a vacuum signal taken from a port above the throttle plate in the carburetor. The vacuum line, in turn, is regulated by a thermovalve which senses engine coolant temperature See Figure 13 9 3 When the engine is cold, the thermovalve remains closed, which blocks any vacuum signal between the carb and the EGR valve. The EGR valve, then, also remains closed thus preventing the recirculation of exhaust gases. The intake charge, therefore, not diluted during cold engine operation. 4 When the engine warms up and can handle the inflow of

is

recirculated exhaust gases, the thermovalve opens. This allows the signals from the carb to reach and, in combination with

vacuum

exhaust gas back pressure, open the EGR valve This, in turn, allows the gases to begin recirculating from the exhaust to the intake manifold. 5 Because the vacuum signal is taken from above the carb's throttle plate, the recirculation of gases is greatest under high engine loads

3

EGR

1

Common

system

- fault

diagnosis

engine problems with the EGR system include rough when at idle, rough engine performance upon

idling or stalling

light throttle application

and

stalling

on deceleration.

system, very little maintenance is required other than occasionally inspecting the vacuum hoses, the EGR valve and the thermovalve. 3 To check the EGR valve, place your finger under it and press upwards on the diaphragm plate The diaphragm should move freely from the open to the closed position. If it doesn't, replace the valve 4 Now start the engine and run at idle speed The exhaust gas back pressure is not great enough at idle to open the valve. Also, since the engine is not yet warmed up and thus the thermovalve has not opened, the EGR valve should still be closed. As before, with your finger, manually press on the diaphragm. If the valve or adjacent accessories are hot, wear gloves to prevent burning your fingers When the diaphragm is pressed, which opens the valve to recirculate the gases, the engine should lose speed, stumble or stall If the engine speed does not change, the EGR passages should be checked for blockage. 5 After allowing the engine to reach normal operating temperature, have an assistant depress the accelerator slightly and hold the engine speed constant above idle Now pull off the vacuum signal line at the EGR valve and listen or feel for the diaphragm plate to move downward, accompanied by an increase in engine speed. While the vacuum line is off the valve, feel the end of the hose with your thumb to make sure the vacuum signal is reaching the valve. Reinstall the vacuum line to the valve and the diaphragm plate should open (move upward) again, with a decrease in engine speed If the valve does not operate as expected, replace it with a new one. 6 If there was no vacuum signal in the hose and the engine is thoroughly warmed up, examine the vacuum hose for leaks, cracks or blockage 2

Because

of the simplicity of the

4

Catalytic converter - general

1

The

catalytic converter,

which previously was used only on

Fiat's California version vehicles, is designed to reduce the amount of hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) pollutants released

atmosphere.

into the

2

a muffler-like cylindrical unit located

underneath the incorporated in the exhaust system. The converter contains small beads placed in layers called a bed. See Figure 13.10. The volume of the bed is 1700cc, providing over a hundred square yards of surface area exposure to the exhaust gases which pass through it. These beads are coated with platinum and palladium which cause chemical reactions to occur that convert CO to CO2 (carbon dioxide), and HC to CO2 and H 2 (water). 3 Since lead and phosphorus additives in gasoline can poison the beads' catalytic elements, thus rendering the converter ineffective in altering the gases' toxic elements, only unleaded fuel should be used in the vehicle. It

is

vehicle and

is

4 Periodic maintenance of the converter is not required, but it has a limited working life after which it must be renewed. This is usually around 25,000 miles (40,000 km). If, through physical damage, the use of leaded fuels or because its active elements have been depleted, the converter is rendered ineffective, the unit can be replaced with a new one, or the beads drained and replaced 5 It should be noted that since the internal chemical conversions occur between 600 c and 1200 = F, the converter operates at a very high temperature. Before performing any work on or near the converter, be sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid serious burns. 6 There are no functional tests which the home mechanic can perform to determine if the catalytic converter is operating properly Such tests must be made by qualified personnel using the proper emissions-sensing equipment.

5

Air induction

system

-

general

induction system is now being used only on 49 state it replaces the air injection system detailed in Chapter 3, Section 16. The purpose of the system is to reduce hydrocarbons (HC) in the exhaust. 2 The air induction system operates in basically the same way as the air injection system by supplying fresh air through passages just downstream of each exhaust valve, where the air mixes with the exhaust charge as it leaves the combusion chamber. At the high temperatures maintained at this point this fresh, oxygen-rich air helps combust the unburned hydrocarbons before they are expelled as exhaust The primary difference between the two systems is that the air induction system draws the fresh air in by the exhaust pulses rather than by using an air pump to pump the air in under pressure This simplifies the system by eliminating the need for'an air pump 3 This system draws air directly from the air filter through a line and a reed valve mounted on the cylinder head and into the induction port which empties into all of the exhaust ports. The reed valve controls the flow of air by operating as a high speed check valve. As each exhaust pulse passes the induction port the fresh air drawn in opens the one-way reed valve, which automatically closes again when the next exhaust charge is released from the combustion chamber. The system uses a separate air filter element which is attached to the side wall of the air filter housing See Figures 13.12 and 13.13. 1

The

air

versions,

where

167

VACUUM PORT

=1RP EGR VALVE Fig. 13.9.

Layout of the

EGR

emissions control system

OUTLET

INLET

BED Fig. 13.10.

Cross-sectional view of the catalytic converter

168

AIR CLEANER

.INTAKE PORT

AIR PUMP

lELIEF

CHECK VALVI

Fig. 13.1

1

.

Layout of the

air injection

system

(California version)

FILTER

REED VALVE

Fig. 13.12.

Layout of the

air

induction system (49 states)

VALVE

>

r

169

FILTER

Fig. 13.13. Air induction filter

element and housing

Air induction

system

- fault

diagnosis

and the

induction systems. In the case of the air system eliminates the need for the diverter valve shown in Figure 3.1 1 With either the air injection or air induction system, fresh air is constantly fed into the exhaust manifold. While under most engine operating conditions the combustion process takes place without problems, when the engine is decelerating the air/fuel mixture becomes overly rich which then causes uncontrolled combustion, or backfiring to take place in the exhaust system. The air gulp system is designed to prevent this by supplying more fresh air to the engine during deceleration. This extra charge of fresh air restores the proper air/fuel mixture, thus allowing normal combustion and eliminating injection

6

air

injection system, the air gulp

.

system makes it a very reliable one that seldom causes problems. Routine checks of the system should include the reed valve, the air line and the filter 1

The

simplicity of the air induction

element. 2 To check that the system is operating properly, disconnect the air line at the air filter and, while the engine is idling, feel the end with your thumb. There should be a steady stream of air being sucked into it. Then have an assistant apply throttle and as the engine gains speed the suction in the line should increase. If this does not occur, either there are leaks or blockages in the line or the reed valve is sticking. 3 A quick check of the air line can be done simply by disconnecting it at the reed valve, and then performing the same test while holding your finger over the valve. If there is now a steady stream of suction into the valve that increases with the engine speed, then the fault is in the air line and it should be cleaned out or replaced. If, however, the air is still not flowing as it should the problem is most likely in the valve. 4 Another check that should be made on the reed valve is to see if it is allowing gases to blow back past it from the cylinder. Again, with the air line disconnected at the valve, feel with your hand that no exhaust gas is flowing out of the valve. 5 Another way to check the valve is, with the engine cold, to oraMy blow through the air line. Then attempt to suck back through it. If the valve is allowing you to suck back toward the air filter it is faulty and should be replaced. 6 The separate filter element for the air induction system should be replaced every 30,000 miles. The filter can be replaced with the air cleaner either on or off the engine, by removing the two screws that hold the housing. See Figure 13 13.

7

Air

1

The

Gulp system air

-

general

gulp system

is

used

in

conjunction with both the

air

>

backfiring.

2 The system admits air into the intake manifold and uses a gulp valve to control the flow of the air. The gulp valve, in turn, is regulated by a vacuum signal taken from a tap on the intake manifold. The vacuum signal is controlled by an electrovalve which, when energized, closes the gulp valve and, when de-energized, opens it. The electrovalve is energized both by the starting circuit and by a thermoswitch mounted in the cylinder. See Figure 13.14. 3 When the engine is being started the starting circuit energizes the electrovalve, which applies the vacuum signal directly to the upper chamber of the gulp valve, preventing it from opening. Thus no air is being admitted to the intake manifold. 4 Likewise, during cold engine operation the thermoswitch remains closed, again energizing the electrovalve which continues applying its vacuum signal to the upper chamber of the gulp valve. By not admitting fresh air into the intake manifold during cold engine operation, the system prevents any interference with the air/fuel mixture provided by the automatic choke. 5 As the engine warms up the thermoswitch opens, which deenergizes the electrovalve. Now the electrovalve applies another vacuum signal to the mid-chamber of the gulp valve which causes it to open and allows fresh air to flow through it and into the intake manifold. Because the vacuum signal is strongest during deceleration, more air is drawn in during that time which eliminates the backfiring.

1

170

THERMOSWITCH

ELECTROVALVE ^3:

|C£

O GULP VALVE

UK

r"

^^^mmm FIRH

t

IGNITION

SWITCH

Fig. 13.14.

8

Air gulp

system

- fault

Layout of the gulp system

diagnosis

If you begin to experience backfiring while decelerating, or if 1 the engine exhibits lean mixture tendencies while cold, such as rough idling, stumbling upon acceleration or stalling, a check of the air gulp system may be necessary. 2 Begin any check with a complete inspection of all of the system's vacuum hoses for leaks or blockage If backfiring during deceleration is the problem the tests must 3 be made while the engine is at normal operating temperature. Start the engine and allow it to run for about 10 minutes or until normal operating temperature is reached.

4

check to see that

flowing normally through the inlet then the gulp system is functioning normally and the backfiring problem lies elsewhere. 5 If no air is flowing through the gulp valve, then disconnect the air hose at the gulp valve that runs to the intake manifold and place your finger over it to see if air is being sucked into the manifold. If this is not happening the air line is clogged and must First,

opening

of the gulp valve.

air is

If

it

M

is

be cleaned out. 6 If air is flowing normally through the line, then the gulp valve is closed and further checks should be made. Now disconnect the lower vacuum hose from the gulp valve and, as before, place your finger over the end of it to check for vacuum. If vacuum is present, then replace the gulp valve. 7 If no vacuum is reaching the gulp valve, then disconnect the vacuum hose from the electrovalve that runs to the intake manifold. If there is no vacuum here then the vacuum lines are clogged and should be cleaned out. 8 If there is vacuum present in the line to the intake manifold then the electrovalve is not functioning properly. Disconnect the wires from the electrovalve and connect to them either a circuit tester or a 12v bulb and two pieces of wire. If the tester or bulb light up, indicating current is reaching the electrovalve then the valve must be replaced. 9 If no current is reaching the electrovalve then the problem is in the wiring circuit. At this point inspect all of the wires and

connections used in the gulp system including those leading from the electrovalve, thermoswitch, ignition switch and starter. 10 If no wires in the circuit are broken and all of the connections are tight and clean, and if with the ignition switch ON' all other "accessories" are functioning, indicating that the fault is not in the ignition switch, then replace the thermoswitch. The gulp system should now function normally. 1 If the problem is a lean fuel mixture while the engine is cold, indicated by rough idling or stalling, the gulp system must be checked while the engine is cold. To do this, after examining the vacuum hoses, start the engine and immediately check that no air is being drawn into the gulp valve. If the valve is closed then the system is working properly. 12 If air is being drawn into the inlet opening of the gulp valve then disconnect each vacuum hose, on at a time and check each for vacuum. Be sure the engine has not yet warmed up to operating temperature. If the top line has vacuum then replace the gulp valve. If the lower line has vacuum, replace the electrovalve. 13 If neither line has vacuum then proceed with the tests on the electrovalve and the electrical circuit as described in paragraphs 7 through 10. F.

Carburettor

1

General information

1 The Weber twin-choke downdraft carburettors used with both the European and US versions of the 1500 engine are very similar to the one fitted to the 1300 engine, but with several new features. Both versions now utilize a cold starting device which uses heated water from the engine's cooling system to warm the mixture faster and provide easier starting. This is shown in Figure 13.16A. In addition, the US model also includes an automatic choke with a modified fast idle cam, a power valve and a vacuum accelerator pump. All carburettor operations described in Chapter 3 remain unchanged, with the exception of certain carb adjustments on the US model as described in Section 5.

^

r

171

VALVI

r?Tff., WT .'i-*

s's

Fig. 13.15.

Diagram

The vacuum

lines

of

vacuum

TFWITI W

I

'll

1

^^^H

w
'i'^Vj*

controls.

and thermovalves have been I

'.

Red

EGR

system

pump

stripe.

Chapter 13/Supplement

172

This power valve is a vacuum operated ball check valve located the lower part of the carburettor, next to the crankcase vent connection. It incorporates a spring-loaded diaphragm and a ball-and-spring check valve set-up which regulates the fuel flow. See Figure 13.17. The vacuum signal that operates the power valve is drawn from the intake manifold and is controlled by a thermovalve which senses engine coolant temperature. 3 When the engine is cold the thermovalve is closed which blocks the vacuum signal from reaching the power valve. Without vacuum the spring pressure inside the valve pushes on the diaphragm, which unseats the ball check and opens the fuel circuit. When the engine warms up, the thermovalve opens, allowing the vacuum si§nalto reach the power valve. The vacuum overcomes the diaphragm's spring pressure and draws it forward, allowing the ball check return spring to seat the ball, which stops the flow of fuel. 2

2

Automatic choke (USA)

- general

in

1 The manually-operated choke has been replaced by an automatic choke, the various parts of which are illustrated in Figure 1 3. 1 6B. The fast idle cam uses five steps to provide a finer control of engine rpm during warm up. An unloader link, operated by the throttle linkage, also provides a positive choke override on acceleration during cold engine operation.

3

Power

valve - general

1 The power valve is designed to enrich the fuel supply main fuel circuit in the primary barrel during cold engine

operation.

to the

Fig.

13.16A. Cold starting device and assembly of

throttle valve control lever

the

Weber Carburettor

(European version). /

1

Cold starting device

2 3 4 5 6

Adjustment screw

7

Str angler valve control linkage

Heated water ducts Main throttle valve control lever Auxiliary throttle valve control lever Cold starting device control lever

2

Fig. 13.1

6B. Automatic choke

mechanism (US /

2

3 4 5 6 7

8

version).

Choke plate linkage Choke throttle plate Fast idle cam Fast idle adjustment screw

Choke fast idle lever Choke plate unloader link Vacuum diaphragm Choke plate opening lever

I

173

Chapter 13/Supplement

4

Vacuum

accelerator

pump (USA)

-

general

1 In addition to a standard mechanical accelerator pump operated by the throttle linkage, this carburetor also uses a vacuum accelerator which enriches the fuel mixture during cold engine operation. 2 It is located directly over the power valve and uses a diaphragm and spring to regulate the flow of fuel, using the same output circuit as the mechanical pump. See Figure 13.18. Like the power valve, the vacuum accelerator pump draws its vacuum signal from the intake manifold and utilizes a coolant sensitive thermovalve to

control the signal.

3

When

the engine

is

cold the thermovalve

is

open, allowing the

signal to reach the pump. Under high manifold vacuum the diaphragm is pulled back, compressing the spring and allowing

vacuum

the pump cavity to fill. A drop in vacuum allows the spring to push the diaphragm, causing a discharge of fuel through the accelerating pump nozzle. 4 During warm engine operation the thermovalve closes, blocking the vacuum signal to the pump.

5

Carburettor adjustment (USA)

1 Due to stricter emissions control standards the carburettor idle mixture adjustment is much more critical than in previous years. To be sure it is set at the specified legal CO setting you must either have access to a CO tester or allow a qualified mechanic with the proper equipment to do the job. For the proper specifications for your carb, always refer to the EPA Conformity Tag located in the engine compartment.

DIAPHRAGM

DIAPHRAGM SPRING

BALL CHECK

OPEN Fig. 13.17.

Cross-sectional view of the power valve

CLOSED mechanism (US

version)

1

.

r

174

DISCHARGE NOZZLE

MECHANICAL ACCELERATOR PUMP

VACUUM SIGNAL

DIAPHRAGM Fig. 13.18.

Cross-sectional view of the

vacuum

2 After letting the engine warm up to normal operating temperature, connect a tachometer to the running engine. 3 Pinch off the air hose to either the reed valve of the air induction system (49 states version) or the check valve of the air

system (California version). Turn the carburettor idle adjusting screw speed at between 800 and 900 rpm injection

4

to set the

engine

5 Insert the CO tester probe into the tailpipe and adjust the idle mixture adjusting screw to set the CO level at 1 to 2.0%. Turn the screw clockwise to decrease the CO level, or anti-clockwise to increase it. 6 Check the idle speed and if necessary repeat both the idle speed and mixture adjustments until both are set correctly.

G. Transmission

1

General information

The 5-speed transmission used

conjunction with the 1500 in Chapter 6. The primary difference is the addition of the 5th gear assembly on the input and secondary shafts and selector rail, housed within an extended section of the rear casing, as shown in the various diagrams accompanying this text. Aside from this assembly, the dismantling and reassembly of the transmission remains relatively unchanged. 1

engine

is

similar to the

in

4-speed detailed

accelerator

5th gear

assembly

-

version)

2 To dismantle the 5th gear assembly first remove the transmission from the vehicle as described in Chapter 6, Section 3 Proceed with paragraphs 1 through 8 of the transmission dismantling procedure as described in Chapter 6, Section 3. In place of paragraphs 9 and 10 perform the following steps. 4 Remove the input and secondary shaft nuts. Note that these are self-locking nuts and cannot be reused. 5 Lift off the 5th gear shift sleeve from the secondary shaft. 6 Remove the 5th gear shift fork from the 5th and reverse shift

2.

rail.

7 Remove the synchronizer hub and 5th gear (driven) from the secondary shaft. 8 Remove 5th gear (drive) from the input shaft. 9 Remove the bolts that hold on the intermediate plate and lift off the plate and gasket. 10 Remove the 5th gear bearing from the secondary shaft. 1 If you intend to dismantle the entire transmission, proceed with Section 3 of Chapter 6, beginning with paragraph 1 1 12 In reassembling the transmission follow the procedure given in Chapter 6, Section 7. Note: since the Belleville washer/circlip arrangement has been eliminated on the end of the secondary shaft by the self-locking nut, paragraphs 4 and 5 can be bypassed. 13 In between paragraphs 22 and 23 of the transmission reassembly procedure install the 5th gear assembly by reversing the steps of the disassembly procedure. Remember that new self-locking nuts must be used on the ends of the secondary and input shafts, and these should be torqued to 87 ft lbs (12 m-kg).

3 2

pump mechanism (US

Secondary shaft gear cluster

- general

dismantling and reassembly

Because of its external placement outside of the transmission's main casing, work on the 5th gear assembly can be done without 1

dismantling the entire transmission. Likewise, when dismantling the entire transmission is necessary, the 5th gear assembly must be removed before the casing can be detached from the clutch housing.

1 The only major change in the secondary shaft gear cluster is the types of synchronizers used Cone type synchronizers are now used for 1 st and 2nd gears, while spring type are used for 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. Figure 13.22 shows an exploded view of these synchronizer assemblies. 2 The disassembly and reassembly procedures as given in Chapter 6, Section 4 have not been altered.

175

FLOAT BOWL VAPOR OUTLET

DISTRIBUTOR SIGNAL

CONNECTION

MECHANICAL ACCELERATOR PUMP IDLE SPEED A.C.

FAST IDLE

EGR SIGNAL CONNECTION

DLE MIXTURE SCREW

SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL

FUEL INLET

FUEL RETURN

CHARCOAL TRAP PURGE CONNECTION

VACUUM ACCELERATOR POWER VALVE CONNECTION

PUMP

CRANKCASE VENT CONNECTION Fig. 13.19.

Carburetor adjustments and connections (US version)

SCREW

176

58

ft. lbs.

(8kgm)

22

ft. lbs.

(3.1

Fig.

1

kgm)

3.20. Cross-sectional view of the gears and shafts of the 5-speed transmission

2

5th gear cover Intermediate cover

3 4 5

5th gear shift sleeve 5th gear synchronizer hub

/

Secondary shaft

6 7

8 9 10

Secondary shaft self-locking nut 5th gear (driven) 5th gear (drive) Input shaft self-locking nut Input shaft

177

13

ft. lbs.

1.8

kgm)

INTERNAL GEAR SELECTION

18

ft. lbs.

(2.5

kgm)

13

SHIFT FORKS

ft. lbs.

(1.8

kgm)

Fig. 13.21. Cross-sectional

view

of

5-speed transmission

AND RAILS

1

178

Fig.

Cone 1

2 3 4 5

13.22. Synchronizer asser

Spring ring type:

type: 1st gear 1

st

1

gear synchro ring

and hub assembly 2nd gear synchro ring 2nd gear Shift sleeve

Fig. 1

2 3 4 5

Output shaft bearing Output shaft Main case Input shaft Input shaft bearing

6 7

8 9 10

Gear and synchronizer assembly hub

2

Shift

3

Shift sleeve

13.23. 5th gear assembly

5th gear bearing 5th and reverse shift Intermediate plate 5th gear (driven) Synchronizer hub

1

rail

12 13 1

4

15

5th gear (drive) Shift sleeve Output shaft nut 5th gear fork Input shaft nut

'1

179

—k o o 4® 8

M—

:

I

|

2:

26. -223 99 -286 100 -298 103

T

N

23

c

5 1

+

— 267 338

C BN

—

N

— 316

—204

M

105 106

317 107

126

K>8 109 110

J* ^®^-15_ 93

^i>^

—

-A

—

124 27

39 28

117

30

l«

Hjfex^—

320 154 268 155 270 156

»M»

98 164

— HG-

8S ig. 88 10 -

88 116 85 29584 114-

-

-~x>

-VN

— 266 33 4U 34

-10-

80 1447© 3j478 280 77 3S6-

6/

N

—

N

—

36

75 6

-

74 55 73 23 70 7

-

.f

-

:

69 56 68 «?2635 37 26 38 20 39

67 j6

-

:

o

J>Ot' 2 Or

6

»

^ ol -

66 314-

L •

=S"0>^

B

•AN

— '29

AN— 235

-AB — 244 H

13-

R

-

Fig.

175 176

178

237 179 ISO 738 184

— 246

187

245 188

S —239 18© 120 190

44 57

AN -260

gn

174

G —243

H

AB

171

'67 173

B— '39 119

rn

se so

13.24 Wiring diagram for 5 speed models (continued overleaf). For key see page 182

r

180'

338 105 337 66 338 278

338 33*

77 79

ID

2

—c

—GN GN — GR—

330 202 VB 329 213 328 210— HG 327 221 328 328 220 324 293219

RN

1

MB AG

323 289 320 1V>

AG

355 383

RN— 354 N2

Fig.

13.24 (cont'd) Wiring diagram for 5-speed models. For key see page 182

364

398 385

181

430 389 428 416

— GN

428 396

—B

N

427 307 426 194 425 774

R

-

N

M

405

363 «•

404

367— S

'

MB

403 353

400 365— A

NZ

389 375

388 365 — NZ

NZ

387 41P

82 389 429 385 360

394

419

Is

B