Haynes Datsun Sunny 1200 & 120Y Owner's Handbook/Servicing Manual 0856964239, 9780856964237

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

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Datsun

SUNNY 200 1207 All UK Saloon, Coupé and Estate models: Datsun 1200, 1970-73 Datsun 120Y, 1973-78 (Does not cover ‘New Sunny’ introduced August 1978)

Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide by MS

Daniels

ABCDE

se

Acknowledgements

460427342

Special thanks are due to Nissan Motor Co Ltd of Tokyo for their assistance in supplying technical information and certain illustrations used in this book; to Sandra and John Porter; and to Tor View Garage of Glastonbury. Valuable advice on lubrication was given by Castrol Ltd, and on spark plugs by the Champion Sparking Plug Co. Thanks are also due to Les Brazier, the photographer, and to all those people who helped in the production of the book.

A book in the Haynes Owner's Guide Series.

Handbook/Servicing

Edited by Robin Wager

©Haynes Publishing Group 1979 Published and printed by the Haynes Publishing Group, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ

ISBN O 85696 4239 Although every care has been taken to ensure the correctness of data used, it must be borne in mind that alterations and design changes can occur within the production run of a model without specific reclassification. No liability can be accepted for damage, loss or injury caused by 2 errors or omissions in the information given.

Contents What's in it for You?

5

About this Handbook

The ‘Sunny’ Family

vs

Main production dates and changes

Road Test Data

10

Performance figures from Autocar

In the Driving Seat

11

Instruments, controls, layout

Filling Station Facts

18

Garage forecourt guide to tyre pressures etc.

QUICK-CHECK

CHART

20

Fill-up data at-a-glance

In an Emergency

21

Get-you-home kit, wheel changing, towing, light bulb renewal

Save It!

30

Cutting motoring costs — safely

Vital Statistics

34

Technical data on all models

Tools for the Job

44

Getting equipped — what to buy

Service Scene

47

What to do, when, and how to do it

Body Beautiful

if

Cleaning, renovating, repairing bodywork

The Personal Touch

83

Adding accessories

Troubleshooting

95

Charts to help when things go wrong

Conversion Factors

107

‘What's that in pounds per square inch ...?’

Index

108

uNnsieg I OOZ

J00p-z uoojes

What's in it for You? Whether you've bought this book yourself or had it given to you, the idea was probably the same in either case — to help you get the best out of your ‘Sunny’ and perhaps to make your motoring a bit less of a drain on your hard-earned cash at the same time. Garage labour charges can easily be several times your own hourly rate of pay, and usually form the main part of any servicing bill; we'll help you avoid them by carrying out the routine services yourself. Even if you don’t want to do the regular servicing, and prefer to leave it to your Datsun dealer, there are some things you should check regularly just to make sure that your car's not a danger to you or to anyone else on the road; we tell you what they are. If you're about to start doing your own servicing (whether to cut costs or to be sure that it’s done properly) we think you'll find the procedures described give an easy-to-follow introduction to what can be a very satisfying way of spending a few hours

of your spare time. We've included some tips that should save you some money when buying replacement parts and even while you're driving; there’s a chapter on cleaning and renovating your car, and another on

fitting accessories. Apart from the things every ‘Sunny’ owner needs to know to deal with mishaps like a puncture or a broken headlamp, we've put together some Troubleshooter charts to cover the more likely of the problems that can crop up with even the most carefully maintained car sooner or later.

There’s also a set of conversion tables and a comprehensive alphabetical index to help you find your way round the book. If the bug gets you, and you're keen to tackle some of the more advanced repair jobs on your car, then you'll need our Owner's Workshop Manual for the Datsun 1200 or 120Y which gives a step-by-step guide to all the repair and overhaul tasks on these cars, with plenty of illustrations to make things even clearer.

Datsun 1200 Coupé

Datsun

1200 Estate

The ‘Sunny’ Family The Datsun 1200 ‘Sunny’ was first introduced in the UK in May 1970. It is powered by an 1171 cc ohv engine driving the rear wheels through a ‘conventional’ four-speed gearbox, propeller shaft and rear axle. Three-speed automatic transmission was available as an option. The 1200 range of vehicles, which comprised a 2-door saloon, a coupé and an estate car, was discontinued in September 1973, in favour of the ‘New Sunny’ or 120Y.

The 120Y was introduced in October 1973 and is mechanically similar to the 1200, using the same engine and gearbox. However, the body is larger and more stylish than its predecessor and the coupé model is a fastback design with a rear opening window. An estate car and a panel van version are also available.

Datsun

Standard equipment includes tinted glass, reclining front seats, clock, cigar lighter, reversing lights, and on some models a radio. Specification details are given in Vita/ Statistics, but the following summary gives the most important changes to the models.

1200

May 1970 Oct 1970

Saloon de luxe introduced in the UK FH Coupé de luxe introduced in the UK

Oct 1971 Sept 1973

Estate car de luxe introduced in the UK 1200 range discontinued

Datsun 120Y Oct 1973 Feb 1976

2 and 4-door saloon, FH Coupé and Estate car introduced in the UK Wheel size increased from 12in to 13in. Brushed nylon seats replace material

March 1977

2 and 4-door saloons redesignated GLS

Datsun

7 20Y 2-door Saloon

PVC

Datsun

120Y 4-door Saloon

Datsun 120Y Hatchback Coupé

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In the Driving Seat After that potted history of the Sunny range, now let's take a look at some of the more important things you'll

need to know from the driving seat. Fortunately, the manufacturers have laid most things out in a straightforward fashion and most experienced drivers will feel at home in a Sunny from the word ‘go’. However, we're going to set out some information to enable you to get to know your Sunny a little better if you've recently acquired it or are borrowing it from somebody else.

Instruments, switches and controls The

illustrations

show

typical

Ignition warning light

instrument

panel

The

ignition

warning

light’s

grouped

together

layouts used for the various Datsun 1200 and 120Y

with other warning lights and is identified by the

models.

letters

®

@

optional for Standard mode!) Choke control button Radio (optional)

This

light serves

OTT)

oD

LL

ED)

feces O88

O ® @ ||

/nstrument panel and controls —

Light switch Wiper and washer switch Speedometer Clock (optional) Cigarette lighter (De luxe —

CH.

© ®@

the dual

purpose

&O®@®

1200 Saloon and Estate models

15 Heater (optional) 16 Clutch pedal

8 9

Glove compartment Package tray (De luxe and

Coupé)

17 Brake pedal

10 11 12 13 14

Heater switch (optional) Ash tray Console box (optional) Handbrake lever Gear shift lever

18 Accelerator pedal 19 Ignition switch 20

21

Turn signal switch and high beam switch lever Horn button

of

IN THE DRIVING SEAT reminding the driver that the ignition circuit's switched on (even though the engine may not be running), as well as acting as a ‘no charge’ indicator. The light should be on when the ignition’s switched

on, and may also be on when the engine's oe fe should go out at any speed above idling. | aa doesn’t happen, you've got a problem on your hands which needs pretty urgent attention. Instrument panel details — 1200 Saloon and Estate models Turn indicator light Speedometer

Fuel gauge Temperature gauge

A

AL

Oil pressure warning light Headlight beam indicator light Odometer Ignition warning light

i

Trip odometer AARWNH™ DANA

Tats tii

® ®

®®

££)

i OTD Wop

oe

Instrument panel and controls — 1200 Coupé models

1

Light switch

10 Glove compartment

2

Wiper and washer switch

11

Package tray (De luxe and

18 Clutch pedal 19

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Combination meter Turn indicator light Speedometer Tachometer (optional) Cigarette lighter Choke control button Radio (optional)

12 13 14 15 16 17

Coupé) Heater switch (optional) Ash tray Handbrake lever Console box (optional) Gear shift lever Heater (optional)

20 Accelerator pedal 21 Ignition switch 22 Turn signal switch and high beam switch lever 23 Horn button 24 Clock foptional)

Brake pedal

Instrument panel details — 1200 Coupé models Trip odometer

Odometer Headlight beam indicator light Oil pressure warning light Water temperature gauge Ignition warning light NQOARWH™ Fuel gauge

12

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j

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afi va

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ye

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j |

Hs

a

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|

G

|

\

|

\

|

\

‘ (®

/nstrument panel and contro/s — all 120Y models Side ventilator Speedometer Glove compartment Combination meter Parcel shelf Side ventilator Ash tray Light switch Cigarette lighter (optional) Bonnet release handle Radio (optional) Fuse box Windscreen wiper and Acelerator pedal Turn signal switch lever washer switch /gnition switch Clock (optional) Turn signal indicator lights

Speedometer and odometer fitted to all 120Y models

ie

bool

Horn buttons Brake pedal Clutch pedal

Choke control knob Parking brake lever Gear lever Console box (optional) Center ventilator (optional) Heater control (optional)

Tachometer — optional on all models

Instrument panel details — all 120Y models 1 Temperature gauge 2 Ignition warning light 3 Fuel gauge

4 Oil pressure warning light 5 High beam warning light

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

Fuel gauge

Oil pressure warning light The oil pressure warning light should only be on when the ignition’s switched on and should go out as soon as the engine’s running. If the light doesn’t go out within a second or two of starting-up, the indication is that a considerable degree of wear exists in the engine, the oil pressure warning light switch is faulty,

or

(less

likely)

some

of the

oil-ways

are

blocked. These faults can be lived with for a while, but expect problems in the future! If the warning light comes on when you're travelling, expect trouble and stop immediately. |t could be a faulty warning switch, but take a look at the engine oil dipstick — maybe you haven't checked the level lately and you're out of oil.

Oil pressure gauge An oil pressure gauge is a very useful instrument

that’s well worth adding, and there’s more information on this in The Personal Touch which deals with fitting auxiliary instruments generally. The oil pressure gauge reading will vary according to the engine speed and temperature. If you notice that the oil pressure suddenly drops back when you're cruising along suspect trouble and stop as you're probably !ow on engine oil. The oil pressure gauge scores over the oil pressure warning light as it will give advanced warning of oil pressure drop and will also give you a

reasonable idea of the bearings and oil pump.

condition

of the

engine

Water temperature gauge The water temperature gauge indicates the temperature of the engine coolant which is circulated through the cooling system. When starting the engine from cold, the water temperature gauge will remain in the ‘Cold’ section and, after a few miles, the needle will gradually move to the centre ‘Normal’ position. If the needle should swing to the red of ‘Hot’ sector, pull into the side of the road and investigate the fault.

The fuel gauge is operated by a float unit in the petrol tank and will register the fuel contents only when the ignition is switched ‘ON’. The position of the needle will vary slightly when the car is accelerating, braking or parked on an incline. To obtain a true reading, check the gauge when the car's

on level ground. The switches on the Datsun 1200 and 120Y models are similar in operation although the positions may vary as illustrations.

shown

in

the

instrument

panel

Multi-function switch This switch is the stalk type and controls the direction indicators and high and low headlight beams. Pushing the lever upwards operates the lefthand turn signal lights, and pushing the lever downwards operates the right-hand turn signal lights. Providing the master light switch is in the ‘headlamp’ position, pushing the lever forward switches the headlamps to high beam; pulling the lever back sets them to low beam. On some 120Y models the headlamps can be flashed for signalling purposes by pulling the lever to the extreme rear position (the master light switch does not have to be on for this function). On all models a blue warning light on the instrument panel will illuminate whenever the headlamps are switched to high beam.

Master light switch The master light switch is located on the righthand side of the instrument panel and is the push-pull type. When the switch is pulled out to the first

position, the front and rear side lights, number plate lights and instrument panel lights are turned on. Pulling the switch out to the second position switches on the headlamps in addition to the lights already mentioned.

On some

models

the switch

can be rotated to

adjust the brightness of the instrument panel lights.

Tachometer A tachometer is an optional extra on most Datsun models and is a very useful instrument to have. Hints

on fitting a tachometer are given in The Personal Touch’. The standard tachometer is_ electrically operated and indicates engine revolutions per minute (rpm) in increments of a thousand. An orange band on the face of the instrument adjacent to the 6000 rpm mark indicates the normal maximum engine speed. If the needle’s allowed to go beyond this point into the red band, the engine is being over-revved, and this should be avoided unless absolutely necessary during overtaking in second or 14 third gear.

Windscreen wiper/washer switch This switch is positioned above the master light switch and is also of the push-pull type. Pulling the switch out to the first position operates the wipers at the ‘slow’ speed, pulling it out to the second position increased the speed of the wipers.

To operate the windscreen washers, turn the knob in a clockwise direction and hold it in this position until the windscreen has been washed clean.

/gnition switch The 1200 models have a three-position (Off — On —

Start)

ignition

switch

with

an

optional

‘Lock’

IN THE DRIVING SEAT

OFF

RIGH J/ /

Lo

HIGH BEAM £

LOCK (Optional) /gnition switch positions for

Roe

[

1200 models

/

FIRST POSITION J Mehe SECOND

POSITION |

Master light switch

x.

FIRST POSITION!

=

”

/

/

\__/

(Low speed)

SECOND POSITION (lligh speed) Windscreen wiper/washer switch position. The ignition switch on 120Y models has the addition of an ‘Acc’ position which enables electrical accessories such as radio, tape player etc to be used without switching on the ignition. On models fitted with a steering column lock, the ignition key can only be removed and inserted when the ignition switch is in the ‘Lock’ position. To lock the steering, turn the key to the ‘Lock’ position, remove it and rotate the steering wheel until the locking plunger clicks into position.

Other switches The use of switches such as the hazard warning flasher switch and rear window demist switch is selfexplanatory; the horn, incidentally, is operated by pushing either of the buttons on the spokes of the steering wheel.

Gear lever positions for 3 and 4 speed manual

gearboxes

Gearshift lever Both the Datsun

1200 and 120Y models can be

fitted with either a three-speed gearbox with a column mounted gear lever, or a four-speed gearbox with a floor mounted gear lever. Both types of gearbox have synchromesh on all forward gears. The forward and reverse gear lever positions are shown in the illustration.

Handbrake lever The centrally mounted handbrake lever applies the rear brakes only when it’s pulled upwards. To release the brake, pull it up slightly, press the button in the end of the handle and push the lever all the way

down. On some models a red light on the instrument panel will be illuminated when the handbrake’s 15

IN THE DRIVING SEAT applied with the ignition switched on. It should go out as soon as the brake’s released. Caution: This warning light’s also connected to the hydraulic brake system and if it remains illuminated when the handbrake’s released, or comes on while driving, it could mean that one of the brake circuits has failed. Get the brakes checked at the first opportunity — if you're on a journey this means stop at the next service station.

Choke control knob The choke control knob is positioned on the lefthand side of the instrument panel and is used in the conventional manner. How much choke is required will depend on the temperature of the engine and will tend to vary from one car to another.

Always push the choke knob fully in as soon as the engine’s warm and running smoothly; too much choke not only causes excessive petrol consumption but is also harmful to the engine.

Bonnet release handle The bonnet release handle’s !ocated beneath the instrument panel, and pulling it rearwards releases the bonnet lock. To open the bonnet, push up the catch at the front centre of the bonnet, raise it and fit

Control lever for reclining the seat

the support rod in the hole provided.

Front seat adjustment

The front seats can be moved either forward or rearwards by means of a lever at the lower front edge of the seat. To adjust the seat position, hold the lever outwards, slide the seat to the required position and release the lever. To tilt the seat back to the desired angle, pull up

the lever on the side of the seat and lean back against the seat; release the lever when the required position

is obtained (see illustrations).

Automatic transmission Driving a Sunny fitted with automatic transmission is pretty straightforward and the following tips will help you get the best from your transmission system. The engine can only be started with the control

lever in either the P (park) or N (neutral) position. Before starting the engine ensure that the handbrake’s on, and once you've started the engine ensure that the footbrake’s on before you select a gear position. If the engine’s cold and the choke’s in operation you'll feel a slight thump through the

Selector positions for automatic transmission

IN THE DRIVING SEAT transmission as you engage R, D, 2 or 1. You'll also notice once you release the handbrake or footbrake that the car will tend to ‘creep’ — this is quite normal when the engine’s idling fast. Let's assume you're ready to move off; you've selected D and released the handbrake, now you only need to accelerate as normal and you're off. Gear changing will be automatic and according to road speed and throttle pedal position. All the gears except 1st give engine braking on over-run. If you want to overtake another vehicle and need increased acceleration, you simply floor the throttle pedal and the transmission will downshift and remain in this lower gear until you release the throttle pedal a little; then the transmission will change up again to the higher gear.

Manual selection of the 2nd and 1st gears can be made when

you want additional braking effort from

the engine. Let’s assume the transmission is in the D position and you select the 2nd gear position; the transmission will automatically change to 2nd gear. Certain rules apply when doing this, and 2nd gear should never be selected at speeds over 60 mph (100 kph) or the transmission will be damaged. Position 1 is intended to be selected from rest, when travelling on rough ground, or descending or ascending steep hills. If you select 1st gear when the

transmission is in D an immediate overchange to 2nd gear will occur and 1st gear will be engaged at the controlled gear change speed. To prevent inadvertent gear changing, the selector lever on the 1200 models must be pushed down before moving it into the required position. On

120Y cars a button on the side of the handle must be pressed in before the handle can be moved.

Towing cars with automatic transmission If the transmission’s functioning correctly the vehicle can be towed with the selector lever in the N position, but the speed must be limited to a maximum of 17 mph (30 kph) for a maximum towing distance of 30 miles (48 kilometers). It's absolutely essential to check the transmission fluid level before towing the Car. If you suspect a transmission fault and need to tow the car then it’s necessary to either disconnect the propeller shaft or lift the rear wheels clear of the

ground (suspended tow). The engine of an automatic transmission model can only be started by using the vehicle’s starter motor, and can’t be started by towing or pushing. If you find your battery's ‘flat’ then you can couple some ‘jump’ leads — negative to negative and positive to positive — from another charged battery.

17

Filling Station Facts car for the time being, there are Forgetting about the actual servicing and mechanical maintenance of your only an important part of the not they're but overlooked: get to some things which are so simple they're likely these items — tyres, oil and water — of Three too. reliability and safety its for vital they're — car your of e maintenanc you can check if necessary whenever you visit a petrol station. the very first day you drive a We've set out here the absolute minimum of information you need right from Sunny.

Checking coolant level

Topping up oil Whenever you top up the oil level, always try to

use the same

grade and brand; and do avoid using

cheap oil — the initial saving will probably be lost in

increased engine wear over a prolonged period — or perhaps a short one! When checking the oil level, ensure that the standing on level ground. Take out the dipstick, it clean, then replace it fully. Pull it out again and the oil level. Under no circumstances should the be allowed to drop below the ‘L’ mark. If the oil is at this mark, 2 pints will be needed to bring it ‘H’. Avoid over-filling and wipe up any oil spilt.

car’s wipe note level level up to

If the engine’s at its normal running temperature or higher, take extra care when removing the radiator filler cap. Place a rag over the cap, turn slowly anti-clockwise to the first position, and allow the pressure in the system to escape, then again turn anticlockwise and remove carefully.

If a considerable amount of water's required to top up or you're continuously adding water during the winter months, the antifreeze mixture will be diluted and made less effective. So if antifreeze is in use, topping up should be done with water/antifreeze mixture in the correct proportions.

Filling station under-bonnet check points

1 Dipstick (engine oil) 2 Screenwash reservoir

3 Radiator coolant level 4 Battery electrolyte

FILLING STATION FACTS

Above left: location of fuel filler flap. Left: bonnet release and safety catch. Above: bonnet Support location and storage clip

The coolant level should be brought up to 1 inch (25 mm) below the bottom of the filler neck. Make sure that the radiator cap’s properly fitted afterwards.

Tyre pressures When checking tyre pressures don’t forget to check the pressure in the spare — in the event of a puncture you could be in for a ‘let down’! If you're affluent enough to have your own tyre pressure gauge, always use this to check the pressures — garage gauges aren't always terribly accurate and its essential that the pressures are right to ensure the

correct handling of the car when steering and braking. Remember that tyre pressures can only be checked accurately when the tyres are cold. Any tyre that’s travelled more than a mile or so will show a pressure increase of several pounds per square inch (psi) — maybe more than 5 psi after a longer run. Soa certain amount of ‘guesstimation’ comes into checking tyres if they're warm. Since the pressures won't increase for any reason other than heat, the least you can do is to ensure that the pressures in the two front tyres are equal, bearing in mind that they may be a bit above those shown in the table. (The same applies to the two back tyres, but remember that their pressure may be different from the front ones if yours is an Estate model).

If one tyre of a pair has a low pressure when hot, bring it up to the pressure of the other at the same end of the car; if they're both below the recommended cold pressure although warm, the safest thing to do is to bring them up to about 3 psi above it, to allow for cooling.

Se/f-service garages Many garages now operate on a self-service basis so that the customer's subjected to the intricacies of refuelling his or her own vehicle. Regulars to this type of establishment need no introduction to its methods of operation and can usually be seen going through the routine at high speed like well-oiled robots. To the newcomer, the operation of the various kinds of pump can at first be confusing, but don’t panic! Carefully read each instruction on the pump and in turn before attempting to work it. When refuelling, insert the nozzle fully into the car's filler tube and try to regulate the fuel flow at an even rate so that it’s not too fast. Most pumps now have an automatic flow-back valve mechanism fitted in them, which prevents any surplus petrol making a speedy exit from the filler neck all over the unsuspecting operator. On completion, don't forget to

refit your petrol filler cap!

19

,

QUICK-CHECK CHART

Recommended pressures for cold tyres in psi (kgf/cm?)

TYRE PRESSURES

Prolonged high speeds

Normal use Front

Tyre and model 6.00S x 12 (4PR) 1200 models 1200 Estate when fully laden 120Y models 155SR-12 (fully laden)

FUEL OCTANE 1200 models 120Y models

Front

ZEA),

22 (1.5)

22 (1.5)

40 (2.8)

22 (1.5)

40 (2.8)

224135)

22 (1.5)

24 (1.7)

24

24 (1.7)

24 (1.7)

28 (2.0)

28 (2.0)

24 (1.7)

28 (2.0)

28 (2.0)

28 (2.0)

le4,

RATING 97 octane (4 star) 90 octane (2 star)

FUEL TANK CAPACITIES 1200 1200 120Y 120Y 120Y

Saloon Estate and Coupé Saloon Coupé Estate

8.75 Imp galls (40 litres) 8.4 Imp galls (38 litres) 10.4 Imp galls (47 litres) 9.5 Imp galls (43 litres) 8.75 Imp galls (40 litres)

ENGINE OIL TYPE

All models

20W/50 multigrade

QUANTITY OF OIL REQUIRED TO BRING LEVEL FROM ‘L’ TO ‘H’ ON DIPSTICK

2 pints (1 litre) approx.

Min. 90 octane

Rear

22 (1.5)

UA

All models (normal load)

Rear

Min. 94 octane

Min. 97 octane

Min. 100 octane

Fuel octane/star rating — use the correct grade for your model

=| DATSUN |eoceal

In an Emergency There's been no car yet invented that can guarantee you a safe and reliable journey from A to B every day of your life. Whether it’s due to a puncture or a more serious mechanical problem, the time will almost certainly come when your trusty transport needs a bit of roadside attention. The Troubleshooter section should help to trace the cause

of an unexpected

fault, but it isn’t much

good

knowing what's wrong if you've nothing to put it right with, or needing to change a wheel in the dark when you

haven't a clue how the jack works. A few minutes spent reading through this section now could save you much time and temper later on!

Spares and repairs kit The basic ‘tools’ supplied with the car won't get you very far in the event of a roadside breakdown. An additional toolkit is essential if you're to hope to carry out any repairs yourself — and anyway, you'll need them eventually for servicing; there’s more information on the sort of items to buy in Joo/s for the

Job. A few things which can be fitted without too much bother at the roadside should also be carried. It's really up to you to decide what sort of repairs are within your capabilities in an emergency, but the kind

of things you should consider are: Spark plug, clean and with the correct gap HT lead and plug cap — long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor

Set of the main light bulbs Pocket tyre pressure gauge Spare fuses Distributor rotor, condenser and contact points Fan belt Roll of insulating tape Tin of radiator sealer and a hose bandage Extension light and lead with crocodile clips

Clean lint-free cloth Breakdown triangle Tow rope First aid box

Spare set of keys (but not kept in the car) De-icer aerosol (during winter) This Handbook or Haynes Workshop Manual Of course, it’s possible to expand this

list indefinitely; for example, you might prefer to have a set of spare coolant hoses instead of just a repair

A box like this is useful for keeping your emergency repairs kit together bandage, but obviously there has to be a compromise or you'll have no spare room in the boot! We'll mention here just three other items for emergency use which it might make you feel happier

to have on board. The first is a ‘universal’ temporary fan belt which can be fitted without loosening any bolts, and which will enable you to get going again quickly in the event of a belt breakage, and to fit a proper replacement belt at your leisure. The second ‘get you home’ device is an ‘instant’ puncture repair in the form of an aerosol can. The nozzle is screwed on to the tyre valve, and releases sealant to seal the leak, together with gas to reinflate the tyre. It's suitable for tubed or tubeless tyres, and 21

IN AN EMERGENCY

4 h

An ‘Instant Spare’ aerosol in use ona

flat tyre

/f you want to carry emergency petrol, use an approved safety can of the type shown here. The detachable

spout makes pouring easy, too will at the very least allow you to drive to a garage without getting your hands dirty. Our third additional suggestion is a temporary windscreen. If you've ever suffered a shattered windscreen, you'll know what a nightmare it can be trying to drive the car, especially in bad weather. If

you haven't, take our word for it! One of the roll-up type of polyester temporary screens is quick and easy to fit, leaves driving unaffected, and wipers and washers can be used normally. When not in use its thin container stows neatly in a corner of the boot or on the back shelf. It's not normally necessary to carry spare fuel in this country, but if you do want to have an extra

gallon or so in the boot for emergencies, then use one of the safety cans now on the market. They're not only specially constructed

to be safe in an accident

and to prevent leakage, but they’re so much easier to pour from than something like an old oil can.

Jacking up and changing a wheel The jack supplied with the car is suitable for changing a wheel at the roadside and that’s. about all. If the car's to be jacked up for servicing or other work, you'll need a stronger and more reliable means of supporting it; for further information on this, see Too/s 22 for the Job.

All models are equipped with a scissor-type jack which engages with jacking points on the underside of the body sill. On the later 120Y models, cut-outs are provided at the front and rear of each sill (refer to

the illustrations for details). The jack, jacking tools, wheel chocks and spare wheel are located beneath the cover board in the luggage compartment on all Saloon and Coupé models. In the case of Estate cars, the spare wheel is retained beneath the rear floor section by a carrier bracket. To release the carrier, slacken the retaining bolt (using the wheelbrace) from beneath the rear of the vehicle (it is not necessary or desirable to jack the car up first). Take the weight of the spare wheel, detach the retaining bolt from the carrier and lower it to the ground. Withdraw the wheel from the carrier. Commence the wheel changing operation by first applying the handbrake and engaging first or reverse

gear

(manual

transmission)

or

‘P’

(automatic

transmission). Now place the chocks on either side of the wheel diagonally opposite the wheel that’s going to be removed. If the chocks are missing, scout around for a couple of decent sized rocks or blocks of wood and use these. If the car's being jacked up on a fairly steep

incline, chocks must be used to prevent it rolling off the jack with possibly disastrous results.

—

4

ae

wf

-

P

|

|/f

=

ee

ae

|

| = aes

a ee JACK—UP

JACK

POINT

Jacking points on 1200 models

Jacking point at rear for 120Y Van

Detail Jacking points on 120Y models

Location of spare wheel in Saloon models

23

IN AN EMERGENCY Before lifting, but with the jack correctly positioned, remove the hub cap with the tool provided. If you haven't got the angled tool you can use a large screwdriver to lever off the hub cap. Now use

the wheel

nut

spanner

to loosen

each

nut

by

about half a turn. Hopefully, the nuts won't be too tight but if they are you can apply a bit of foot power on the spanner to loosen them.

The car can now be jacked up, but make sure it doesn’t move, and check that the chocks are still in position. Take off the wheel nuts and then the wheel. Fit the spare wheel to the car, tighten the wheel nuts

up evenly in a cross-wise order and then lower the car to the ground. Fully tighten the nuts now, you don't have to stand on the spanner to do this, but make sure they're good and tight (if you're interested, the

oe =< avy =e ae FFE Laon

tes

ESS Rh Sa

JRA

TN

ee rcercs y TIS TSS

Front attachment point for tow-rope on 1200 models

Front attachment point for tow-rope on 120Y models

IN AN EMERGENCY correct tightening torque’s 60 Ibf ft). Finally fit the hub cap or trim piate by holding it in position and hitting it smartly with the ball of your hand. If you're following the correct service procedures, the spare will be inflated to the pressure setting for a fully loaded rear tyre, so you may have to let it down to the correct pressure to suit the position and loaded state of the car. To release the air pressure, press in the pin in the centre of the valve under the screwed dust cap, whilst checking the tyre pressure at intervals with your pressure gauge. If the tyre isn’t up to the recommended pressure, make a mental note to keep it checked in future and drive carefully to the nearest air-line.

Towing and being towed If you need to tow another car, the tow-rope or cable must be tied to one of the rear spring shackles of your Datsun as shown in the illustration. Should your Car have to be towed, attach the tow-rope to one of the front torsion rod brackets. On some later models special towing eyes are located below the front bumper panel. Before towing models equipped with automatic transmission it’s essential to refer to the appropriate section of /n the Driving Seat.

Maintenance of lights Remember that a faulty exterior light can not only be dangerous but is also illegal. Carrying a supply of spare bulbs will enable you to replace blown ones as they occur. A failed interior lamp or panel light bulb may be just a nuisance but most of them aren't particularly difficult to change. Some Datsun models have the sealed beam type headlamp unit fitted which in effect is a combined

bulb and sealed reflector unit, and if failure of either dipped or main beam occurs the whole unit must be replaced as detailed below.

Headlamp sealed beam unit or bulb renewal On 1200 Coupé and all 120Y models it’s first necessary to remove the six retaining screws from the top of the radiator grille and remove the grille by

pulling it upwards. Unscrew the headlamp retaining ring by rotating it in a clockwise direction after the three securing screws have been loosened (not removed). Don't confuse these screws with the adjusting screws which shouldn't be disturbed. Withdraw the headlamp sealed beam unit forward, peel back the rubber cover at the rear and disconnect the connecting plug. Installation of the new lamp unit is a reversal of the removal operations but make sure that the word ‘TOP’ is correctly positioned.

:

ay pees (7-\rt U =e

>

2

|

D,\\

2 y}

_

DATSUN

i.

3

L——c_ ——T

Ft

|

Location of front grille retaining screws

Components of the sealed beam type headlamp

1 Retaining ring 2 Light unit

3 Mounting ring

25

IN AN EMERGENCY

byte

A

Headlamp vertical adjustment screw

Components of the bulb type headlamp 1 2 3 4

Retaining ring Reflector Bulb Boot

5 Mounting

If the headlamp is the type with a bulb fitted, remove the bulb holder by rotating it in a clockwise direction. Fit a new bulb and then reassemble by reversing the removal procedure.

Front sidelight/turn signal bulbs renewal Remove the two screws retaining the lens, and withdraw the lens. Both bulbs are removed by pushing them in and turning; refitting is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Rear light cluster bulb renewal On Saloon models, work within the luggage compartment and remove the two screws which secure the bulb holder assembly to the back of the lamp. Withdraw the holder and remove the individual

bulbs which are of bayonet type fixing. On Coupé models, remove the cover from the back of the lamp body and remove the individual bulb

26 holders

by

twisting

them

in

an

anti-clockwise

Renewing front sidelight/turn signal bulbs

direction and then withdrawing them. On Estate models, the bulbs are accessible after removing the external lens securing screws and

withdrawing the lenses.

IN AN EMERGENCY

Renewing the number plate bulb (1200 Saloon models)

Renewing a side marker bulb

Side marker bulb renewal

Number plate lamp bulb renewal

withdraw the lens. The bulb is the bayonet type and is removed by pushing in and turning. Refit the new bulb and lens using the reverse of the removal

On 1200 securing the withdraw the On all other

procedure.

located

Remove

the

two

lens

retaining

screws

and

Saloon models remove the two screws lens to the top of the rear bumper, lens and remove the bayonet type bulb. models the number plate lamp(s) are

beneath

the

rear

body

panel

above

the 27

IN AN EMERGENCY

FUSE BOX 4

f ii? Location of fusible link

Location of fuse box

number plate. Remove the lens securing screws, withdraw the lens and remove the bayonet type

instrument panel to the main facia. Pull the instrument panel forward sufficiently to enable the

bulb(s). Refitting the bulbs and lens is the reverse of

speedometer speedometer

the removal procedure.

Interior lamp bulb renewal Remove the lamp cover by twisting it in an anticlockwise direction. The bulb is of the festoon type and

can

be

removed

by prising

the

end

contact

supports apart.

Panel and warning light bulb renewal 1200 models: On these models it’s necessary to withdraw the instrument panel to replace the bulbs, so for safety’s sake disconnect the battery earth lead. Push in and turn anti-clockwise each of the following switches to remove them and their escutcheon discs: the lighting switch, the windscreen

wiper switch, the cigarette lighter (if fitted) and the choke knob. Insert the hand into the rear of the instrument panel and disconnect the cigarette lighter cable and remove the lighter assembly completely.

to be disconnected from the and the twelve pin electrical connecting plug and socket to be separated. Withdraw the instrument panel. Indicator/warning lamp holders are now accessible

and

cable head

may

be withdrawn

for bulb renewal

simply by pulling them from their sockets. Refitting the bulbs and instrument panel is a reversal of removal. 120Y models: On these models the instrument panel bulbs can be renewed without having to withdraw the panel. To remove the bulbs for the oil pressure and ignition warning lamps, and instrument and windscreen wiper switch illumination, reach behind the instrument panel and twist the bulb holder from its socket. Fit the new bulb and press the holder back into position.

To gain access to the direction indicator warning lamp bulbs, remove the shrouds (4 screws) from the

are secured to their shafts and levers by grub screws.

upper end of the steering column. The bulb holders and their wedge-base bulbs can now be removed from the casing at the rear of the instrument panel.

28 Unscrew and remove the six screws which secure the

The rear window demister switch bulb is reached

Remove the radio and heater control knobs which

IN AN EMERGENCY by pressing in the two retainers on either side of the demister switch and withdrawing the switch from the panel. Remove assembly.

the bulb from the rear of the switch

Fuses — renewal (all models)

indicated on the cover of the fusebox. A fusible link is incorporated in the main power circuit, and is situated just below the voltage regulator on 120Y models and in the battery-to-alternator cable on 1200 models. If a fuse ‘blows’ replace it with one of the same rating and if this replacement likewise ‘blows’ you must inspect the circuits and units which the fuse

The fusebox is located under the facia panel close

protects for faults (see Vita/ Statistics for details).

to the door pillar. The number and rating of the fuses varies according to model. The circuits and components protected by the individual fuses are

Never replace a fuse with one of a higher cating as you're defeating the object of having a fuse and will probably end up with a serious fault.

29

Save It! Do-it-yourself car servicing is all about money saving, whilst not forgetting the ever-important point of maintaining the highest standards of safety. In this Chapter we cover several points which should help reduce your motoring costs - or at least prevent them from increasing quite as fast as they otherwise might these days — without reducing your car's safety.

Tyres Without any doubt whatever, a radial tyre will give you much better value for money than a crossply because, although it will cost a bit more to buy, it will last a great deal longer. Remould tyres can give good service, but they have their limitations when used for family motoring; remould radials now have a more reliable reputation than they had when they first appeared on the market, but sometimes give a bit of trouble when trying to balance them. So, what have we learnt so far? Only that in the broadest terms the more you pay for your tyres, the better value for money you'll get. If you want the best in roadholding and tyre life, buy radials; if you want good tyre life, but aren't quite so worried about the roadholding under adverse conditions, buy crossplies; if you want a good runabout tyre, and aren't thinking of high speeds or long journeys, buy radial remoulds but remember they may give a bit of steering wheel ‘shimmy’ if used on the front; if you want the cheapest tyre which still complies with the law in safety standards, buy remould crossplies. Regraded tyres are sometimes available (they used to be known as remould quality or RQ); these are tyres which may have the very slightest of defects in the tread pattern or moulding, but are otherwise perfect. If you get the chance to buy these, buy them — to all intents and purposes they're as good as a new

tyre.

money (and who isn’t these days?). Unless there's a ‘special offer’ going, the most expensive place to get new tyres will normally be your local garage. Now let's just briefly consider how to make your tyres last. First, keep them inflated properly (see Filling Station Facts for the correct pressures). Second, drive in the way that’s least likely to wear them out (i.e. no race-track starts or cornering); third, make sure your shock absorbers are working properly; and fourth, make sure the wheels are balanced properly.

Batteries Next to tyres, batteries are the most commonly found parts sold by specialists. A top quality battery may cost up to three times the price of the cheapest one that’l! fit your car. Once again, price is related to the quality of the product, but isn't necessarily directly proportional. A battery with a twelve month guarantee ought to last that long and a little bit more, but batteries always seem to fail at embarrassing or inconvenient times so it’s worthwhile getting something a little bit better. Many of the accessory shops and tyre dealers sell good quality batteries with two or three year

guarantees. Buy one of these — it'll be worthwhile in the long run and still cost quite a bit less than the dearest ones around. And if you look after it, it'll look after you, too.

It's not generally realised that the major tyre manufacturers also produce tyres under a less well known name at a somewhat cheaper price. These are first class buys too — ask any tyre dealer.

Talking of tyre dealers, it’s worth mentioning that 30 they're the people to go to if you're intent on saving

Exhaust systems The average car gets through several exhaust systems in the course of its life, the actual number depending on the sort of journeys for which the car's used (lots of short journeys will mean condensation

SAVE IT! remaining inside the exhaust system and helping it to rust out more quickly). The

best

place

to go when

your

car

needs

a

replacement exhaust (or maybe just part of the system) is one of the specialist ‘exhaust centres’ which have sprung up in recent years. They keep huge stocks to fit most mass-produced cars, and offer free fitting as well as discount prices on the parts a certainly show almost You'll themselves. saving compared with getting your worthwhile Datsun dealer to fit the exhaust (which will involve labour charges as well). If you're planning to keep your car for several years it would certainly be worth thinking about an exhaust system made from stainless steel. It'll normally cost you considerably more than an ordinary mild steel replacement, but on the other hand should last the remainder of the car's life. If you're interested, talk it over with one of the exhaust specialists — they're usually stockists of the stainless steel kind too.

cheap

engine

Additives Oil and fuel additives have been with us for a long time and no doubt will be around for many years to come. It's pretty unlikely that there are any bad

additives around, but there’s not a great deal of evidence to suggest that there are many good ones. The major oil manufacturers will tell you that their oils are adequate on their own, in which case you'll only need additives if the oil you're using isn’t much good. A fuel additive of the upper cylinder lubricant type is generally accepted as a good thing, one of its main functions being to prevent carbon building up around the piston rings and ring grooves, which means that the piston rings can seal more effectively.

If we

oils

are

available,

but

because it’s so difficult to find out which cheap ones are good, it’s safest to stay clear of them. There are plenty of good multigrade engine oils on the market and quite a few are available at sensible prices from the D-I-Y motoring and accessory shops. Unless circumstances

circumstances it’s also beneficial to retard the ignition

by a couple of degrees, but you've got the bother of resetting it again later.

Economy devices

Lubricants and the like Good

carefully until you can get the correct grade; in these

should force you to, don't

buy oil in pint or half-litre cans. This is the most expensive way of buying, particularly if it’s from a filling station. The big 5-litre (they used to be one gallon) cans are adequate for most purposes and contain more than enough for an oil change. If your pride and joy’s a bit of an oil burner, you may need an extra can for topping up between oil changes. Oil is also available in larger drums (which can be fitted with a tap) sometimes at an even bigger price saving. A telephone call or visit to nearby wholesalers may well prove worthwhile. Antifreeze is always cheaper if you go to the motoring shops, but bulk buying doesn’t normally apply because you never need to buy it in any real quantity.

As for greases, brake fluid, etc, you'll save a little at the motoring shops but again you'll never need large quantities — just make sure you buy something that’s good quality.

could

believe everything

published

about

economy devices, we'd be able to fit the lot and end up with a car that would save more fuel than it used!

Obviously this isn't going to happen, and the evidence produced by the motoring magazines doesn't lend much weight to the various manufacturers arguments. If you're considering fitting any of these items (which range from manifold modifiers to spark boosters and fuel pressure regulators), try to get hold of some independent reports before parting with your money.

Vacuum gauge Also known as a performance gauge or fuel consumption gauge, this can loosely be termed as an economy device because its purpose is to tell you how to use performance in the most efficient way. An engine that’s running efficiently will be using all the

fuel/air mixture in the inlet manifold for any given throttle opening, and in doing so it causes a fairly high suction past the throttle butterfly. The maximum suction it can produce varies, but could be over 20 inches of mercury (that’s around 10 psi) relative to atmospheric pressure. If you've got one of these

gauges one

(and there’s some

in The

maximum

Personal

vacuum

information

Touch)

reading

about fitting

try to drive

all the time

with

and

the

you'll

certainly save some money on fuel.

Fuel Your car's designed to run on a particular grade of

fuel (star rating). Don’t buy fuel that’s of a higher

Engine tuning

rating than this, because you're wasting your money. On the other hand, if you buy a lower rating fuel your engine performance (and probably your engine too) will suffer. If you are forced to buy inferior fuel, drive

This term is much misused; it simply means getting the best performance and economy (or sometimes one at the expense of the other) from the standard engine. You'll have a job to improve on the 31

SAVE IT! car specifications and settings laid down by the manufacturers, so these must be your obvious for guidelines. You may be able to get different jets y the carburettors if you're after a little more econom or performance

(see Vital Statistics for the correct

needle for your model). You could also try one

of the

sports-type

air

y filters; we've found an improvement in both econom

and performance, although there’s an increase in noise level. These filters are a wire-gauze type and make for a much simpler renewal of the element(s) of Regular maintenance is in keeping the engine in a spark plugs, distributor

cleaning procedure than the dry paper type. the most important factor good state of tune (e.g. points, ignition timing,

valve air cleaner, adjustments, carburettor clearances), but take care that things like overadjusted brakes don’t mar this. If you can look after all these things, the rest’s up to you as the driver.

Driving habits With the car in a decent state of tune, there’s a lot that you, yourself, can do to improve its economy simply by your method of driving. It’s very tempting at times to do a ‘grand prix’ start from the traffic lights, or to change down and floor the accelerator just to show yourself that you can do it ( nobody else cares anyway!).

The art of economical driving is to use the pedals sensibly. There’s no need to race the engine and let the clutch slip violently when starting off; a moderate

engine speed, and careful engagement of the clutch, will produce the same result with much greater economy, and only a little more slowly. Once moving, try keeping the throttle pedal in the same position while the car accelerates — you may need to ease it down just a little more, but don’t press it too hard — there’s just no need for it. The little time saved in accelerating will be outweighed by the additional time and cost involved the next time you fill up with petrol. Changing through the gears should be done in just the same way, using the accelerator pedal with care. When you have to change down, there’s no need to rev your engine — this is another fuel waster. Similarly, ‘blipping’ the throttle pedal while impatiently waiting for the lights to turn green is using unnecessary fuel. Even in warm weather you'll need to use the choke to start a cold engine. The secret, though, is to push in the knob as soon as possible; experiment to see how soon it can be done — you may surprise yourself. Excessive use of the choke not only affects fuel economy, but results in unburnt mixture getting

into the oil and excessive engine wear. Considerably 32

more engine wear occurs in a few hundred miles of

in many times this stop/start motoring from cold, than warmed-up mileage of driving with a thoroughly ys. journe long on engine ‘

Roof racks to The ever-faithful roof rack has proved a boon , but luggage holiday extra the for ts motoris many so with how often do you see cars being driven around es an empty roof rack still attached? Many estimat ption consum fuel in e increas the of have been made and the caused by a roof rack due to wind resistance, with a 10%; around is figure ed accept generally

loaded rack, this figure can be as high as 30%. The

moral, then, is obvious — don’t use a roof rack unless in you have to, and always remove it when it’s not

use.

/nsurance of the other things that we've Like some discussed, the service you're going to get from your insurance company will be related to the cost of the cover obtained. A cheap policy's good until you need to make a claim, and then the sort of snags you're going to come across are ‘How do | get hold of an assessor to inspect the damage?! or ‘How will it affect my No Claims Bonus?’ J There are one or two legimate ways of reducing the policy premium, perhaps by insuring for ‘owner driver only’, or ‘two named drivers’, or an agreement to pay the first £20 or so of any claim. Many large companies have a discount employees if they use the same

scheme for their insurance company; this also applies to bank and Civil Service employees.

You may also get a better bargain by insuring through one of the Motoring Associations if you're a member. What it all adds up to is: (1) Insure well; (2) See what you can get in the way of discounts; and (3) Find out exactly what you're covered for.

Buying spare parts Apart from the oils and going to need, it won't be long a few bits and pieces to smoothly. Please do remember

greases which you're before you have to buy keep things running to clean up any parts

which are traded-in on an exchange basis (e.g. brake shoes) and, whenever possible, check that any replacement parts look the same as the ald ones, either by direct comparison if this can be done, or reference to any of the illustrations in the appropriate part of this book. Spare parts and accessories are available from many sources, but the following should act as a good guide when they're required. Officially appointed Datsun garages: Although a Datsun garage should be able to supply just about

SAVE IT! everything for your car, it will generally be found that the prices are higher than you need pay. Accessory shops: These are usually the best places for getting your distributor contact breaker

points, oil filters, brake shoes, spark plugs, fan belts, lubricants,

touch-up

paints

etc

—

the

very

things

you're going to need for the general servicing of the car. They also sell general accessories and charge lower prices but, what's equally important, they have

convenient opening hours and can often be found not too far from home. Motor factors: Good factors will stock all the more important components of the engine, gearbox, suspension and braking systems, and often provide guaranteed parts on an exchange basis. They're particularly useful to the more advanced do-ityourself motorist.

Vehicle identification numbers When you're buying spare parts, the storeman will need to know certain information about your car. The very least he'll need to know is the make, model,

engine size and year of manufacture. In some cases he'll have to be told the car’s engine number, the vehicle serial number and the body colour code (which you always meant to take a note of but never got round to doing it!). Make a note of these now in your diary, or perhaps the inside cover of this Handbook. The vehicle serial number's stamped on a plate fixed to the rear bulkhead of the engine compartment;

the engine number's stamped on the rear right-hand side of the engine block; and the body colour code is shown on a plate attached to the top of the radiator support cross-member (see the illustrations).

Location of vehicle identification plate

Location of engine number plate

Vital Statistics be applicable to refer to, the following information which will At some time or other you'll ne ed to know, or the whole of through way our work and t headfirs in go Let’s pub). your Sunny (even if it’s only to win a bet in the the specifications ...

ENGINE

Four cylinders, in-line, overhead valve

Type

1171 cc

Capacity

2.87 in (73 mm)

Bore

Stroke

2.76 in (70 mm)

Firing order

1342

Compression ratio

oa

Oil pressure

43 — 50 Ibf/in? (hot) at 2000 rpm

Maximum power

69 BHP @ 6000 rpm

Maximum

70 Ib/ft @ 4000 rpm

torque

Valve clearances Inlet and exhaust: Hot Cold

0.0138 in (0.35 mm) 0.0098 in (0.23 mm)

Lubrication system Pump type

System type Filter Pressure relief valve

34

Sump and filter capacity Oil type

Rotor, camshaft gear driven Pressure feed Canister, disposable, full-flow type Ball and spring, non-adjustable 5.5 pints

Multigrade 20W/50

3 i=) &

as)

> 9

N ~

vo S o

S 12) N ~

®o

) ~

gS) Do

=

Ps ®o

sDS c i)

S is) ~

~N ~ ~

—

°

S g 2)

>

=,

© c

ks ~

So

®

Y

VITAL STATISTICS

COOLING SYSTEM Thermo syphon with pump assistance

System type

Corrugated fin

Radiator type

Filler cap opening pressure

Thermostat

13 Ibf/in?

Wax pellet

Type Starts to open

75 to 78°C

Coolant capacity With heater

Fan belt tension

Antifreeze type

5 litres (8.80 pints)

$ in (12.7 mm) deflection in the centre of the longest belt run

Ethylene glycol to BS3152 specifications

FUEL SYSTEM Disposable, paper element type

Air cleaner

Fuel pump Type Delivery pressure

Carburettor

Hitachi type DCG 306

Type

Idling speed: Manual transmission

Automatic transmission (‘N’ selected) Fuel tank capacities 1200 1200 120Y 120Y 120Y

Mechanical, driven by the camshaft

3.4 psi (0.24 kgf cm’)

Saloon Estate and Coupé Saloon Coupé Estate and Van

600 rpm 700 rpm

8.75 Imp. galls (40 litres) 8.4 Imp. galls (38 litres) 10.4 Imp. galls (47 litres) 9.5 Imp. galls (43 litres) 8.75 imp. galls (40 litres)

Fuel octane ratings 97 octane (4 star) 90 octane (2 star)

1200 models 120Y models

IGNITION

SYSTEM 12 volt coil and distributor

Type

Distributor 1200 models: Make

Type (upto 1971) (after 1971)

(after 1971

Hitachi

D411-61 D412 — 80 (manual gearbox) D412 — 89 (automatic transmission)

VITAL STATISTICS 120Y models: Make

Type

Hitachi

D411-61

(rotation of all types of distributor is anti-clockwise)

Contact breaker points gap (all models) Dwell angle (all models)

0.018 to 0.022 in (0.46 to 0.56 mm) 49° to 55°

/gnition timing All models

7° BTDC at 600 rpm (manual) or 650 rpm (automatic)

Spark plugs Type:

1200 models up to 1972 1200 models 1972 onwards 120Y models to 1975 120Y models 1975 onwards

Gap (all models)

Hitachi L46—P or NGK BP-6E or Champion N-9Y Hitachi L46—PW or NGK BP-—5ES or Champion N-9Y Hitachi L46—P or NGK BP—6E or Champion N-9Y Hitachi L46—P or NGK BP-—6E or Champion RN-9Y 0.031 to 0.035 in (0.8 to 0.9 mm)

STEERING AND SUSPENSION Steering

Type Ratio No. of turns (lock-to-lock) Turning circle Oil capacity

Front wheel alignment

Worm and nut, recirculating ball 15.031 3.54 28 ft (8.5 m) 0.5 Imp. pint, 0.28 litre

1200

120Y

5’ to 2° 05’ positive 45’ to 1° 45’ positive

20’ to 1° 20’ positive

20° to 1° 50’ positive 1° 05’ to 2° O05’ positive

1° 15’ to 2° 15’ positive 1° 10’ to 2° 10’ positive

7°65" 7° 45'

7° 47’ to 8° 47' 7°42'to 8° 42’

Camber angle: Saloon and Coupé Estate and Van Castor angle: Saloon and Coupé Estate and Van Steering axis inclination: Saloon and Coupé Estate and Van

15’ to 1° 15’ positive

Suspension Front Rear

Wheels

Macpherson struts with stabiliser bar Semi-elliptical leaf springs with telescopic shock absorbers

Pressed steel, 12 in. x 6.00 on all models up to Jan. 1976. 13 in. x 6.0 for 120Y models from

Feb. 1976

(Tyres and pressures: See Filling Station Facts)

CLUTCH Type Actuation

Diameter

Single dry plate, diaphragm spring Cable operated on RHD vehicles (hydraulically

operated on LHD vehicles) 7.09 in (180 mm)

VITAL STATISTICS

Free movement Cable operated type: At release lever At clutch pedal Hydraulically operated type At release lever At clutch pedal

GEARBOX Types

(MANUAL TRANSMISSION)

0.098 to 0.138 in (2.5 to 3.5 mm)

0.430 to 0.590 in (10.9 to

1st 2nd 3rd 4th Reverse

:

0.039 to 0.79 in (1.0 to 2.0 mm) 0.630 to 1.3 in (16.0 to 33.0 mm)

4-speed all synchromesh (except reverse) with floor shift. 3-speed all synchromesh (except reverse) with steering column shift Four-speed Su Daa ZAGS 1

Ratios

15.0 mm)

1.404: 1

1.000 : 1 3.640: 1

Three-speed 333804 1573421 1.000: 1 — 3.640: 1

Oil capacity 24 Imp. pints (1.2 litres)

Both types

Oil type Castrol Hypoy SAE 90 EP

Both types

AUTOMATIC Type

TRANSMISSION 3N718B

(3 forward speeds and reverse)

Ratios 1st 2nd 3rd Reverse

2.458: 1.458: 1:000::

Fluid capacity

Transmission casing, 9.75 Imp. pints (5.54 litres). Torque converter, 4.75 Imp. pints (2.70 litres)

Fluid type

Dexron automatic transmission fluid

REAR AXLE Type (all models)

Semi-floating, rigid with hypoid gear

Ratio

3.90: 1

Oil capacity

1.58 Imp. pints (0.90 litres)

Oil type

Hypoid SAE 90 EP

BRAKES 1200 models — type

2ZAS2

od = —

Hydraulically operated on all four wheels, mechanically operated handbrake on rear wheels only. Drum brakes all round or discs on front and drums on rear.

Single or dual hydraulic circuit according to date of manufacture.

VITAL STATISTICS 120Y models — type

Four wheel hydraulic with servo assistance. Front discs, rear drums, dual circuit. Mechanical handbrake on rear wheels only, self-adjusting rear brakes on later models.

Fluid type

SAE J1703

Dimensions (front) Drum diameter (1200)

8.0 in (203.2 mm)

Disc diameter (1200) Disc diameter (120Y) Minimum friction pad thickness (all models)

8.37 in (212.6 mm) 9.13 in (231.9 mm)

% in (1.6 mm)

Dimensions (rear) Drum diameter (all models)

BODY DIMENSIONS

8.0 in (203.2 mm)

AND WEIGHTS

7200 models Length (Saloon) (Estate)

(Coupé) Width (all except Coupé)

(Coupé) Height (all except Coupé)

(Coupé) Ground clearance Wheelbase Kerb weight: Standard four-door Saloon (with automatic transmission) De-luxe four door Saloon

(with auto-transmission)

Inches 150.8 152.2

Mm 3830.3 3865.9

150.4 59.6

3820.2 1496.1 1513.8

54.7

1389.4

53.1

1348.7

6.7 90.6 Ibs 1532 1609 1576

170.2 2301.2 Kg 695.5 7305 7155

58.9

1653

750.5

Standard two-door Saloon

1499

680.5

De-luxe two-door Saloon (with auto-transmission) Standard Estate De-luxe Estate

1543 1620 1609 1653

700.5 735.5 730.5 750.5

Coupé

1565

710.5

720Y models

Length:

Inches

Mm

4 door Saloon 2 and

155.5

3949.7

Coupé

155.5

3949.7

Estate and Van

157.0

3987.8

61.0

1549.4

53.1

1348.7

54.0

1371.6

50.2 49.8 6.7

12750 1264.9 170.2

Width Height: Coupé

All other models Track:

Font Rear

Ground clearance

Japow AOZ I ay1 Jo Maia Aemejng

40

haang Assay =

VITAL STATISTICS Kerb weight: 2 door Saloon 4 door Saloon Coupé Estate and Van

Manual

1675 1709 1675 1764

Ib |b |b |b

Automatic

(760 (775 (760 (800

kg) kg) kg) kg)

1720 |b (780 kg) 1754 |b (796 kg) 1720 Ib (780 kg)

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Type

(All models) 12 volt negative earth

Battery 1200 models

60 amp/hr

120Y models

40 amp/hr

Starter motor Make and type: Manual transmission Automatic transmission Drive

Output Brush length (new): S114-87M $114-156 Minimum brush length: S114-87M $114-156

Hitachi S114-87M Hitachi S114—-156 Pre-engaged

1.0 kw 0.63 in (16.0 mm) 0.55 in (14.0 mm) 0.256 in (6.5 mm) 0.177 in (4.5 mm)

Alternator 1200 models: Type Nominal rated output Maximum continuous speed

Brush length (new) Minimum brush length 120Y models:

Hitachi LT135-13B 35 amps 13500 rpm

0.571 in 0.2756 in

Type Rating

Hitachi LT125—06 25 amps

Brush length (new) Minimum brush length

0.57 in (14.5 mm) 0.28 in (7.0 mm)

Regulator Regulating voltage Core gap Points gap

14.3 to 15.3 volts at 68°F (20°C) 0.024 to 0.039 in (0.6 to 1.0 mm)

0.012 to 0.016 in (0.3 to 0.4 mm)

Cut-out Release voltage Core gap Points gap

4.2 to 5.2 volts at ‘N’ terminal

0.031 to 0.039 in (0.8 to 1.0 mm) 0.016 to 0.024 in (0.4 to 0.6 mm)

Bulb chart 1200 models: Headlamp

Direction indicator and parking Direction indicator side repeater Number plate Tail light and stop

Wattage

50/40 23/8 8 Ts 23/8

41

japOul OOTL yi 40 MaIA AemeIND

( Aaawg A220 ()

HIM

42

VITAL STATISTICS Direction indicator Reversing Instrument panel

Wiper/washer control Heater control

Wattage 23 23 nord

3.4

Interior lamp

3.4 Aez, 127 1.7 ae cy 10

Clock

le?

Instrument panel Direction indicator warning Headlamp main beam indicator

Wattage 3.4 3.4 3.4

Ignition warning Direction indicator warning Headlamp main beam indicator Oil pressure warning Brake warning

Ignition warning Oil pressure Clock 120Y models:

3.4 3.4 3.4

Headlamp Front direction indicator/parking

50/40 21/5

Side marker Number plate Rear direction indicator

10 10 21

Stop/tail Reversing lamp

21/5 24

Interior Automatic transmission speed indicator Switch knob illumination All indicator and instrumentation lamps

10 3-4 3-4 3-4

Fuses

1200

120Y

Number and rating

4x15 amp 2x 10amp

4x15 amp 3x 10amp 1x8amp

The identification of the protected circuits and the fuse ratings are shown on the fuse box cover located beneath the instrument panel (see In an Emergency).

43

Tools for the Job The tool kit supplied with the car isn’t really worthy of the name at all, so if you're serious about D-I-Y servicing you're going to have to invest in a few extra tools sooner rather than later. The initial outlay for a too! kit, even though it may appear to be something approaching the national defence budget, could well be less than the labour charges for a ‘big’ service; on top of this you should be paying less for your oil and replacement parts by getting them yourself, so provided you've a few hours of spare time you must be on to a winner! A small but important point when buying tools is the quality aspect. You don’t have to buy the very best in the shop but, on the other hand, the cheapest probably aren‘t worth buying. Have a word with the manager or proprietor if in doubt, he'll be able to tell you what's good value for money. It's very difficult to set out exactly what you're going to need, but the list below should be a help in building up a good tool kit. Combination spanners (ring one end, open the other) are recommended, incidentally, because although they're more expensive they give you the advantages of both types.

Feeler gauges

Suggested tools Combination

spanners covering the normal range of

metric (mm) sizes Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges

Screwdriver — 4 in blade x j in diameter

Combination spanner

Screwdriver — 4 in blade x $ in diameter (cross-head type) Hacksaw — junior type Tyre foot pump Tyre pressure gauge — pocket type Tyre valve tool Tyre tread depth gauge Fine emery cloth

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size) Hydraulic or strong scissor jack Pair of axle stands (concrete or wooden blocks will do

if you're careful about choosing them) Oil can Engineer's hammer (1lb ball pein type) 44 Soft faced mallet (plastic or hard rubber type)

Double ended spanner

TOOLS FOR THE JOB We hope your attempts at car servicing are going

to show you that it can all be worthwhile, and having worked your way through the various jobs in Service Scene you'll be able to see that there are many others

Wedging the wheels

that can be done without being a mechanical wizard. If so, you'll want a copy of our fully illustrated Owner's Workshop Manual for the Datsun 1200 or 120Y which details just about every job that you could wish to do on your car. It'll mean buying a few more tools, but remember, you're going to save more money and get a good job done in the process. While we're talking bout tools, it’s worth mentioning some of the tune-up aids which are available. A visit to a good motor accessory shop can be an enlightening experience, just to show you the sort of things available. Later on you'll find a bit about bolt-on goodies, but in this chapter all we'll concern ourselves with are three items. Stroboscopic timing light: The most accurate way

of checking ignition timing (that’s the time at which the spark occurs) is with the engine running, and for this a stroboscopic (strobe) light is used. This is connected to No. 1 spark plug lead and the light’s shone on to the crankshaft pulley marks. Any proprietary light will be supplied with full connecting and operating instructions. Dwell angle meter: This is used for measuring the period of time for which the distributor points remain closed during the ignition cycle of one cylinder, and provides a more accurate method of setting up the ignition than merely setting the points gap. Dwell angle meters normally incorporate a tachometer (rev counter if you prefer), which can be useful for checking engine idle speeds. Cylinder compression gauge: This is very useful

for tracing the cause of a fall-off in engine performance. It consists of a pressure gauge and nonreturn valve, and it’s simply screwed into a spark plug hole while the engine’s turned over on the starter. Compression figures are given in Vita/ Statistics. Two other useful items are a hydrometer, which

is used for checking the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte (useful for telling you if you have a dud cell

which won't hold a charge) and a 12 volt lamp on an extension lead fitted with crocodile clips which can be clipped on to the battery terminals. When it comes to oil changing, you can improvise a suitable container in which to catch the waste oil by slitting open one side of an old 5-litre can — but you've got the problem of handling and disposing of it afterwards. A useful product which helps overcome both these snags is the Drainer Can, seen in use in the photograph. Made of special plastic to withstand hot engine oil, it has a capacity of about 8 litres (14 pints) and permits the old oil to be stored or transported in a 45

TOOLS FOR THE JOB

A Drainer Can in use for oil changing

horizontal or vertical position, local garage or in some other convenience, the can has a pouring nozzle, and it's 100% full, as we can testify.

for disposal at your acceptable way. For carrying handle and leakproof even when

Care of your tools Having bought a reasonable set of tools, it’s the easiest thing in the world to abuse them. After use, always wipe off any dirt and grease using a clean, dry cloth before putting them away. Never leave them

46

lying around after they've been used; a simple rack on the garage wall, for the things you don’t want to carry in the car, is a good idea. Keep all your spanners and the like in a metal box — you can wrap some rags around them to stop them rattling around if you're going to carry them in the boot. Any gauges and meters should be carefully put away so that they don't get damaged or rusty. Take a little care over maintaining your tools, too. Screwdriver blades, for example, inevitably lose their keen edge, and a little timely attention with a file won't go amiss.

Service Scene We've discussed some of the more important features of your car, and talked about tools, money saving and so on. Now we'll get down to the nitty-gritty of servicing — perhaps the very thing you've dreaded for so long? It's not as difficult or mysterious as you may think....

The Sunny’s a modern design, which, if it means nothing else to you, does mean fairly widely spread service intervals and a general reduction in the number of items requiring attention. This has come about from the increased usage of sealed-for-life bearings, nylon bushes, better metal and lubricant technology, and a general reduction in the number of moving parts (which tends to make some owners think the car will go on forever without any regular attention because half the parts don’t exist any more!) Don’t be misled, as it’s still essential to carry out servicing and inspections periodically in the interests of safety and to gain maximum life from the components, not forgetting the fact that you want to maintain a sensible resale value for your car. The old maxim of prevention rather than cure could never be more appropriately applied than in connection with car servicing. Whether itS a case of casting your eagle eye over the various components critically, or getting stuck

into

the

service

tasks

in

a

workmanlike

(or

DON’T run the engine in the garage with the doors closed. DON'T work in an inspection pit with the engine running. DO keep long hair, shirt cuffs, ties and the like clear of any rotating parts while the engine's running. DON'T grab hold of the ignition HT leads when the engine’s running. The chances are you'll get an electric shock, especially if they're dirty or wet. DO chock the rear wheels when you jack up the front of the car, and vice versa. When you can, also apply the handbrake. DON’T rely on the car jack when you're underneath. Always use a secondary form of support e.g. axle stands, wooden or concrete packing blocks. DO wipe up oil or grease from the floor straight

away if you should accidentally spill any. DO get someone to check periodically everything's OK time underneath DON’T use tang can easily

that

if you're likely to be spending some the car. a file without a handle. The pointed gash your hand should something go

workwomanlike) fashion, it’s still going to be worthwhile in the end. If you find a worn part, don't

wrong. DO wear a pair of safety spectacles or goggles to

ignore it, it won't put itself right. Fix it now and rest assured that it won't let you down at some

prevent any metal flying into your eyes when using a cold chisel or power tool. DON'T use your fingers to clear away any drilling swarf, a paintbrush is ideal for this job. DO use the right size spanner for the nut or bolt and see that it’s properly fitted before tightening or loosening. DON'T allow battery acid or terminal corrosion to contact your skin or clothing. If it does, then wash the affected areas with plenty of cold running water. DO take care when pouring out brake fluid. If you should spill any on the paintwork and it’s not removed immediately, it will take the paint off. And do wash your hands afterwards as it’s poisonous. DON’T rush any job, because this is how mistakes are made. If you feel you haven't got enough time to finish the job, don’t do it, leave it until tomorrow but don't let this be an excuse for forgetting

inconvenient time. In this Section we've tried to lay out the servicing tasks in such a way that the amount ofjacking up etc. is reduced to a minimum. The items listed are basically those recommended by the manufacturer plus a few additional ones which we think are well worth the extra effort.

Safety Before you reach for your tools, let’s briefly consider a few precautions. Accidents do happen, this we all know, but the truth is the majority can be avoided if care is exercised. Below we've listed a few points which should reduce the chance of an accident occurring to you, while you're carrying out the service tasks. Many points may seem obvious, and some perhaps you may never have considered.

about it!

47

AUTOMATIC GEARBOX

—B e =ue oY

=

Lubrication Chart Component

Lubricant type

Engine

20W/50 Multigrade engine oil

Manual gearbox

Hypoid gear oil 90 EP

Automatic transmission

Automatic transmission fluid, Dexron type

Rear axle/differential

Hypoid gear oil 90 EP

Steering box

Hypoid gear oil 90 EP

Wheel bearings, suspension joints

High melting point lithium based grease

Brake and clutch fluid

Hydraulic brake fluid to SAE

Cooling system

Glycol based antifreeze mixture with appropriate quantity of water

All body fittings and general oiling

Thin universal oil

J1703

SERVICE SCENE

SERVICE SCHEDULES

WEEKLY, BEFORE A LONG JOURNEY OR EVERY 250 MILES (400 KM) The following tools, lubricants etc. are likely to be needed: Tyre pressure gauge, wheel nut spanner, lint-free

clot. Multigrade engine oil, distilled water, clean tap water, windscreen washer detergent sachet (antifreeze type in winter), antifreeze.

1. Check engine oil level The car should be standing on level ground for this check. The engine oil dipstick’s located on the right-hand side of the engine at the rear of the alternator. If the engine’s just been running, wait a minute or two for the oil to drain back into the sump then pull the dipstick up and out. Wipe it clean on a lint-free cloth, then put it back in to its full depth: now pull it out again and check the level. Add oil if

necessary, to bring it up to the ‘H’ (maximum)

mark

on the dipstick.

Don't overfill the engine with oil, as not only is this wasteful but oil could easily find its way on to the clutch or leak out of the engine oil seals. Take care when pouring in the engine oil (the filler’s on the front end of the rocker cover) and give the fresh oil a chance to drain into the sump before you recheck the level. When you're satisfied that the job’s completed, ensure that the dipstick and filler cap are properly fitted, then wipe away any spilt oil from the rocker

cover.

2. Check battery electrolyte leve/ First wipe away any dirt or moisture from the top of the battery so that none can drop inside when you remove the caps or cover. Take off the caps or cover from the battery cells, and check the electrolyte level (with some types of battery you can see the electrolyte level through the transparent casing). Add distilled water to bring the level just above the tops of the battery plates; with the Pacemaker type, distilled water's added to the trough until all the rectangular filling slots are full and the bottom of the trough’s just covered. If for some reason you've got no distilled water (and it does happen) you can use the frost which collects on the walls of your freezer or fridge and allow this to melt; if you're really desperate, and as a last resort only, boil up some water in the kettle and allow it to cool, but don’t make a habit of it or the battery will suffer in the long run. Refit the cell caps or battery cover, carefully wiping away any drops of

water that were spilt, then check that the terminals are tight. A very light smear of Vaseline or a proprietary

Checking the battery electrolyte /eve/ brand of anti-corrosion jelly sold in a tube will help to keep the corrosion to a minumum. If the weather's extremely cold, run the engine for a few minutes; this will charge the battery and mix the electrolyte which

will prevent the added water from freezing.

3. Check windscreen washer reservoir Add

water

as

necessary

to

the

windscreen

washer reservoir, together with a little of one of the proprietary detergent products for windscreens. In winter, use an antifreeze type (not cooling system

antifreeze as this will damage the paintwork).

4. Check level of coolant in the radiator It's always best to check the coolant level in the radiator when the engine's cold. Remove the radiator cap and check that the coolant level is about 1 inch from the bottom of the filler neck. If topping up the radiator becomes a regular task, you're obviously loosing some coolant which could spell trouble. Causes of loss may be perished or loose hoses, a

faulty seal on the radiator cap, a leaking radiator or heater, or a blown cylinder head gasket. If you can't locate the fault then get your local Datsun man to

carry out a pressure test on the system.

SERVICE SCENE

REMOVE

SLOWLY

breaking the law and you'd better get some replacements pretty quickly. There must also be no cuts, bulges or other deformities; if these are present, you're also breaking the law. If you've got to buy new tyres, read the bit in Save /t!, but remember it’s illegal to fit a radial and crossply tyre on the same axle, and that radials mustn't be fitted to the front if you've got crossplies on the back.

6. Check tightness of wheel nuts While

you're

attending

to the tyres it's a good

time to check the tightness of the wheel nuts. Carefully prise off the hub caps or trim plates, and just check the tightness of the wheel nuts with the Removing the radiator cap

Never remove the radiator cap if the engine’s hot; the sudden release of pressure will cause the coolant to boil and you'll get scalded if you're not very careful. If the system's warm, turn the radiator cap very slowly to let the pressure gradually escape, then remove it and top up. If there’s antifreeze in the cooling system and you want to top up the coolant level, you can get away by adding a little water only, but remember you're diluting the antifreeze/water strength so beware, especially in the winter. Further information on draining, flushing and installing antifreeze is given in

the 24 000 mile Service Schedule.

5. Check tyre pressures and tread depth With the tyres cold, check their pressures (see Filling Station Facts for pressure settings). It’s always

best to use your own pocket-size pressure gauge — those on the forecourts of garages tend to be inaccurate and abused by everyone else but yourself. While you're checking the pressures, don't forget the spare wheel, which should be set at the maximum pressure you're likely to need, then it can be let down if necessary when the wheel's eventually used. With the tyres now properly inflated run your hands (and eyes) around the tyre walls and tread. This task’s best carried out with the car jacked up so that the wheel can be rotated but, if you're really not feeling up to it, move the car backwards or forwards a foot or so, so that you can check all the way round the

spanner supplied with the car. There’s no need to stand on the spanner, because someday the wheel

will have to be removed; the nuts should only be tightened firmly. Don’t forget to refit the hub caps or trim plates when you've finished.

7. Check lights and electrical components For these checks assistant to watch the driver's seat. If you find to /n an Emergency

it’s best if you can get an lights while you remain in the any defective lights then refer which deals with light bulb

renewal. While you're still seated you can also check the operation of the windscreen wipers and washers, and

also the horn.

8. Check the operation of the brakes These checks are best carried out in a simple road

test. Find a quiet stretch of road (not the High Street on a Saturday afternoon) and do an emergency stop. The car, if everything's functioning correctly, should pull up in a reasonable distance and in a straight line. If you suspect a braking system fault (e.g. the car pulls to one side), then get your Datsun dealers to

check out the braking system. To check the handbrake efficiency you need to find a steep incline. Bring the car to rest on the incline and apply the handbrake; if the car begins to creep backwards the brakes may need adjusting or the rear brake linings may be worn out or oily. Rectification of these faults is covered in the 5000-mile Service Schedule.

tyres. The tread depth must, by law, be not less than 1 mm throughout at least three-quarters of the width, and around its full circumference. Tyre tread depth gauges can be purchased for accurately checking the depth but if you haven't got one a 2p piece can be

50

used. If the tread isn’t deeper than the distance from the row of dots to the edge of the coin, you're

EVERY 1000 MILES (1600 KM) OR MONTHLY, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition

to the previously

listed items

in the

Weekly/250 miles Schedule). The following tools, lubricants etc. are likely to be needed: Tin of brake fluid.

SERVICE SCENE

1. Check the brake cylinder reservoir be

fluid level in the master

Note: Either a single or dual braking system may fitted depending on the model and year of

manufacture. The dual braking system has two fluid reservoirs and the level in both must be checked).

Remove fluid

level

the reservoir cap(s) and check that the is up

to

the

full

line

marked

on

the

reservoir(s). If necessary top up the reservoir with the recommended type of brake fluid (see Vita/ Statistics for details). Before refitting the filler cap check that the small vent hole’s clear. If you find that the reservoir requires frequent topping up you have a leakage somewhere in the braking system, which should be attended to by your Datsun garage immediately for safety’s sake.

Brake and clutch fluid reservoirs (earlier models) aN

EVERY 2500 MILES (4000 KM) MONTHS (where applicable) (in addition to the items covered Weekly/250 miles Schedule)

OR in

3 the

1. Change engine oil This is only necessary at this mileage where adverse operating conditions make it so — see Item 1 of the next Schedule for details. Believe it or not, the above are the only extra checks required at 1,000 and 2,500 miles — but do be

meticulous

about

the Weekly/250

miles

checks

—

they're vital for both safety and peace of mind.

EVERY 5000 MILES (8000 KM) OR 5 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the items listed in the 250 miles and 1000 miles Schedules) The following tools, lubricants, etc. are likely to be needed: Sump drain plug spanner , oil can, feeler gauges, oil filter wrench, stroboscopic timing light (if available), spark plug spanner, tachometer (if available), miscellaneous spanners and screwdrivers.

Topping up the brake fluid levels — dual braking system

months if the car is used for any of the following:

Continual stop/start driving. Operating in extreme cold conditions. Operating in very dusty conditions.

Ideally, engine oil changes should only be made when the engine is warm, as this allows the oil to drain out more quickly and take the impurities with it. So, if it's not warm, drive the car for a mile or two —

this is better than leaving a cold engine idling because

Multigrade engine oil (20W-50), SAE9O EP gear oil and gearbox (Castrol TQ Dexron fluid if car has

less wear takes place. Now get a suitable container handy which will just fit beneath the sump. It’s got to be fairly shallow,

automatic transmission), engine oil filter element, multi-purpose grease, set of disc pads, pair of windscreen wiper blades, air cleaner element, set of contact breaker points.

and at the same time have a capacity of at least 6 pints (3.41 litres); an old plastic washing-up bowl is ideal or perhaps an old 5-litre oil can which has been opened up along one side using a tin opener (mind

your hands if you try this!).

1.Change engine oil and filter Note: Under normal operating conditions the engine oil should be changed at 5000-mile intervals or every 5 months, but it’s recommended that this period is reduced to, say, every 2500 miles or 3

Now prepare yourself for the dirty part — roll your sleeves up and have some rag ready just in case. Lie on the ground and remove the sump drain plug.

You're going to get oil on your fingers and possibly all over your hand, but if you're quick it won't run right 51

SERVICE SCENE up your arm! If you should happen to drop the sump plug into the container, don’t forget it’s there — you're going to need it later on. The draining operation will take a good 15 minutes so you can now concentrate on the filter. You'll need another container to catch the oil in the filter; this holds approximately 1 pint (0.568 litres). In theory you should be able to unscrew (anticlockwise) the oil filter by hand but in practice you'll probably find it’s too tight. This is where the strap wrench makes this task simple but if you haven't got one (they're relatively cheap) you'll have to improvise. One way of doing this is to stab the filter canister with a screwdriver or other sharp tool, and use this as a lever to unscrew it. When you've unscrewed the filter, discard it. Now wipe off the face of the oil pump body where the filter screws up against it, with a lint-free cloth. Smear a little oil or grease on the rubber sealing ring that’s attached to the new filter and screw the filter in until the rubber ring just touches the oil pump body face; now turn it two-thirds of a turn further only. By now the sump should be completely drained, so wipe around the drain plug hole, check that the copper seating washer’s undamaged and refit the plug. Wipe away any oil with the rag. The new oil can be added through the filler cap to bring the level up to

the ‘H’ mark on the dipstick. When adding the oil a funnel inserted into the rocker cover will any, but don’t pour the oil in too quickly cover will overfill. Start the engine and run it at a fast a minute, switch off and allow a further for

the

oil

to

drain

back

into

the

save wasting or the rocker

idle for about two minutes sump before

rechecking the level, then add more oil as necessary to bring the level up to the ‘H’ mark. Now check the filter and drain plug for leaks; if you've carried out the above instructions carefully there won't be any. There’s always a problem when it comes to getting rid of the old oil, you can’t just pour it down the household drain because that’s illegal as well as anti-social. The local garage might take your waste oil if they have got an arrangement for disposal. If you've bought your oil in a 5-litre can you could put the old oil in there and let the dustman take it away.

2. Renew air cleaner element (Note:

The

air

cleaner

element's

normally

renewed at intervals of 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or

52

10 months, but under very dusty conditions it’s advisable to renew it more frequently). If you find the filter element's still OK then it will only be necessary to clean the filter casing and to tap the element gently to remove any loose deposits. The procedure for renewing the element is described in the 10 000-mile Service Schedule.

3. Examine cooling system hoses Although there may be no loss of engine coolant it’s still a good idea to check the conditidn of the hoses. Press and squeeze them, and check for signs of cracking or perishing. Renew any part that appears to be defective. More information on this is given in

the Spring Schedule covering draining of the coolant and refilling the system.

4. Clean and reset spark plugs Pull off the spark plug caps; if you think you'll forget their locations place small dabs of paint on the cables or plug caps to identify them. Before unscrewing the plugs clean away any dirt which may have accumulated around them using an old paintbrush. The plugs should ideally be cleaned by a garage equipped with a sand-blasting machine; this will remove the dirt far more effectively than you can with a wire brush which may damage the surface finish of the insulator around the central electrode and lead to misfiring. A spare set of plugs overcomes the inconvenience of having to walk to the garage; in this way you'll always have a spare set ready to be used. Wipe the porcelain insulators of the plugs with a rag moistened in petrol, and check-that the screw threads are clean. Check the electrode gap using a feeler gauge of the specified thickness, and if necessary bend the outer (earth) electrode to obtain it (see Vita/ Statistics).Never try to bend the central electrode — all you'll achieve is a broken insulator. When the plugs are clean and reset, check that the seating in the cylinder head’s clean and the washer’s on the plug. Apply a drop or two of oil on the plug threads then tighten them down firmly — there’s no need to use too much

muscle

as you'll want to get

them out again at some other time. Don't bother to fit the plug leads yet, because you'll need them off for the next item...

5. Check and adjust contact breaker points and lubricate distributor After a period of time, due to the sparking which occurs across them, the contact breaker points will need cleaning. A build-up occurs on one contact and a small crater appears on the other one; also the electrical resistance of the contacts increases. These faults tend to make starting difficult and also cause a general fall-off in the efficiency of the ignition system. First of all remove the distributor cap and rotor and carefully prise open the contacts so that you can

get a good idea of their condition. if the faces are good (not burnt or pitted) you can skip the removal and cleaning and go straight to the part which deals with checking and adjusting the contact gap.

Radiator bottom hose and heater hose

Contact breaker components

1 LT terminal 2 Earthlead 3 Securing screws 4 Eccentric adjuster screw

5 Terminal screw

53

Altering

Checking plug gap with feeler

the

plug

gap.

Note

use of correct tool

gauges

Spark plug maintenance

White deposits and damaged porcelain insulation indicating overheating

Excessive

black

deposits

Broken

porcelain

insulation

due to bent central electrode

Mild

white

deposits

and

caused by over-rich mixture or

electrode burnt indicating too

wrong heat value

weak a fuel mixture

Spark plug electrode conditions

Electrodes burnt away due to wrong heat value or chronic pre-ignition (pinking)

Plug in sound condition. with light greyish brown deposits

SERVICE SCENE Removal,

cleaning

and

refitting

of distributor

contacts: Slip back the spring clips which secure the distributor cap in position. Remove the distributor cap and lay it to one side, only removing one or two of the HT leads from the plugs if necessary to provide

greater movement of the cap. Pull the rotor from the distributor shaft. Unscrew the contact breaker securing screws a turn or two and disconnect the LT lead from the contact breaker arm. If necessary,

unscrew the securing screws a turn or two more and slide the contact

breaker arms

them. The

of the

surfaces

sideways to remove

contacts,

if burnt,

can

be

cleaned and refaced using a fine-cut contact file, but don’t use emery cloth or sandpaper as abrasive particles can get embedded in the contact faces and cause arcing and premature failure of the points. When cleaning the contact faces it’s essential that they are kept parallel and that too much metal isn’t removed. If the contacts are badly pitted and burnt it will be necessary to renew the contact set. Refitting the assembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure but remember to adjust the contact breaker points gap as described next. Adjusting contact breaker points gap and distributor lubrication:

(Note: The most accurate method of adjusting the contact breaker points gap is using a dwell angle meter and adjusting the points gap until the dwell angle reading is within the limits given in Vita/

Statistics). Rotate the engine crankshaft slowly, using a ring spanner on the crankshaft pulley nut, until the heel of the moving contact is on the very top of one of the peaks of the cam. Now refer to Vita/ Statistics and look up the contact breaker points gap. Select the correct feeler blade and attempt to slide it in between the contact faces. If the gap’s incorrect, i.e. too wide or too tight, then slacken the two screws securing the fixed contact in position. Now adjust the gap by turning the adjuster screw, which operates like a cam, until the feeler blade slides between the two points with just a little drag. Tighten the securing screws and recheck the gap, as it may have closed just a little when you

Adjusting distributor contact breaker points

you'll need them off for the next check...

6. Check ignition timing As the contact breaker heel wears, or where

Checking the timing statically (that’s with the engine stopped) is easily done, and this method is described. lf you want the more accurate method, you must use

a stroboscopic timing light (this is dynamic timing); the light will come with the necessary operating instructions and you'll find it quite easy to use but, if you haven't got one, it’s a job for your local Datsun garage to do. On earlier engines the ignition timing marks will be found on the crankshaft pulley, and there’s a datum mark cast on the timing cover. Later engines have a single notch cut in the pulley and a graduated BTDC scale case on the timing cover (see illustrations).

On

both

of

engine

the

static

because you've got to find the point where No. 1 cylinder is firing, and anyway you'll need to take it off

for the next service check. Slowly rotate the engine crankshaft and align the pulley timing mark

As far as lubrication goes, you'll need to apply a few drops of engine oil to the felt wick in the centre of the cam spindle. If there’s a hole in the distributor baseplate you can apply a few drops of oil through this to lubricate the mechanical advance and retard mechanism. The distributor cam can be lubricated, very sparingly, by applying a trace of lithium-based

the fixed datum

Don't refit the rotor arm and distributor cap yet as

types

timing position should be set to 7° BTDC. Now you might as well remove the rocker cover

tightened the screws.

grease.

a

new set of contacts has been fitted, there may be a slight shift of the ignition timing — that’s the exact moment at which the spark occurs at the plugs.

appropriate

for your model

with

marker on the timing cover. Check

now that the valves of No. 1 cylinder are closed (there

should be clearance between the valve stems and rocker arms). You can double check that you've reached the correct position by taking a look at the valves of No. 4 cylinder which should be both ‘rocking’, i.e. one just opening, the other just about to close. If you find that the valves aren't in this position, rotate the crankshaft a further full 360° and realign 55

SERVICE SCENE

TDC Ignition timing marks on earlier engines

the timing marks. When you're satisfied that No. 1 cylinder’s on the firing stroke, observe the contact breaker points — they should be just opening. If they're already opened, the ignition’s advanced (early) and if they aren't about to open the ignition’s retarded (late). To adjust the timing, slacken the distributor clamp bolt (it’s located at the base of the distributor body) just enough to enable the distributor body to be turned.

Having decided

whether

your ignition timing’s

advanced or retarded you'll have to turn the distributor body in a clockwise direction to advance it, or vice versa. At the end of this adjustment the

contact breaker points should just be on the point of Opening, so you can tighten the clamping bolt. If you find it difficult to judge just when the points are about to open, fit up a 12-volt bulb and bulbholder with crocodile clips, and connect one of these to the LT terminal on the distributor and the other to a good earth. With the ignition switched on, turn the

Distributor showing clamp bolt (arrowed)

CYLINDER

4

BLOCK

&

crankshaft slowly and the bulb will light just as the points start to open.

Before refitting the rotor arm check that it’s not

cracked or badly burnt; the same goes for the distributor cap. Inside the distributor cap is a carbon

brush

56

contact

which

should

not be damaged;

also

check that the four pick-up segments aren't burnt and that deposits haven't built up. Finally wipe the distributor cap with a dry cloth both inside and out and refit it, not forgetting the rotor arm. Now inspect the HT leads and wipe them off. If

HT lead connections — the firing order is 1,3, 4,2

SERVICE SCENE

PRIMARY

—..,..

4)

©

Rg

Bae

Z

TO STARTER

— |E -

He

;

IGNITION|Y ] SECONDARY COIL

aA

|

foes 2c1IG

Cw

mie RESIS TOR

COIL hw

eee

5

BREAKER POINT ond ()

| ROTOR

O

HEAD

CONDENSER DISTRIBUTOR

|

om

co

oat

C1)

LJ

Ss

LJ

|

ee

SPARK

PLUG

ae eae |

Ignition circuit wiring diagram

you're not happy with the condition of any of these components then it’s best to renew them before they give trouble. Don't refit the rocker cover because you're going to adjust the valve clearances next...

7. Check valve clearances Valve clearances must be checked and adjusted when the engine's either cold or hot, but never when it's just warm. The procedure for checking all models is the same and the valve clearance figures will be found in Vita/ Statistics. There are several methods of arriving at the correct positions for checking and adjusting the valves but the method described should reduce the number of times you have to rotate the crankshaft. If we number the valves 1 to 8 (No. 1 nearest the radiator) the table below

can

be used -— it’s easy to

remember as you'll see that the numbers of the valves open and closed always add up to 9.

Valve to check

Valve open

No. 1 (exhaust)

No. 8

3 5 2 8 6

(inlet) (exhaust) (inlet) (exhaust) (inlet)

4 (exhaust) 7 (inlet)

AOD Naw-N

The clearance is checked between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm with the valve fully closed. Try it on No. 1- valve — the feeler blade will be a firm sliding fit, that’s if the clearance is correct; if it's too tight or too loose, adjustment’s needed. To adjust, slacken the hexagon locknut while holding the adjuster screw with a screwdriver to stop it turning. Now turn the adjuster screw to obtain the correct clearance gap, tighten the locknut while holding the 57

SERVICE SCENE

Lin (12 mm) of deflection at the longest belt run; now

with the generator held in this position tighten up the mounting bolts and recheck the belt tension. Note: If the fan belt's overtightened, the water out wear may and alternator bearings pump prematurely. On the other hand a fan belt which is too slack will slip, causing overheating and a discharged battery through a low generator output.

When a new fan belt's fitted it will stretch so the tension should be rechecked and adjusted after the car's been used for a while.

9. Check

condition

of steering

and

front

suspension The first part of this check requires the help of an assistant, so grab a passer-by or borrow your motherin-law for a few minutes. The weight of the car needs to be on the front wheels, and if you haven't got an inspection pit and are unable to see the steering system properly you'll have to jack the car up and lower it on to some large concrete or wooden blocks. Remember to apply the handbrake and chock the rear wheels, or the car may move. With your assistant in the driver's seat, get underneath and take a good look at the inner and outer track rod ball joints, the drag link ball joints and the idler arm (to identify these components refer to

the illustration). Ask your assistant to move the steering wheel backwards and forwards as far as it will go, and check for slackness in all the balljoints. This will be seen mostly as up and down movement, and if it’s present the ball joint(s) will have to be renewed. If either or

Checking the fan belt tension screwdriver steady and recheck the gap. Repeat this check and adjustment for the other valves, turning the crankshaft as necessary. With the valve clearances all correct, it's a good idea to renew the gasket fitted beneath the rocker cover. Take off the old gasket and make sure that the seating surfaces of the cylinder head and rocker cover are clean, then put a new one in place. Don't use any jointing compound and when you're refitting the

rocker cover screws.

avoid

overtightening

the

retaining

8. Check fan belt tension and condition Take a good look at the fan belt — if it's showing signs of cracking or fraying then it’s time it was renewed. If the belt’s OK then you can skip the next

58

both of the drag link ball joints are worn, a complete new drag link will have to be fitted. While under the car, check the steering idler for any sideways or up-and-down movement — if there is any it will have to be replaced with a new one. These are normally jobs for your Datsun garage, but if you're the D-I-Y type why not get the appropriate Haynes Owner's Workshop Manual and do the job yourself? If there’s a knocking noise coming from the steering box, first remove the filler plug and if necessary top up with Hypoy EP90 oil. If the knocking persists, it may be possible to eliminate it by means of the adjusting screw on top of the steering box. With the car supported on blocks or axle stands and the front wheels hanging down free, slacken the adjusting screw locknut. Slowly turn the screw clockwise until it just begins to get stiff, and then

part and check the belt tension. To renew the belt, simply slacken the alternator

slacken

mounting bolts and slide the generator inwards towards the engine. The old belt can now be removed and the new one installed. To adjust the tension of the new belt, pull the alternator outwards until there’s

to-lock, and if it’s OK tighten the locknut. If the knocking can only be eliminated by tightening the adjusting screw to a point where the steering begins to tighten up, then the steering box is

it back half a turn. Check that the steering

wheel can be rotated easily and smoothly from lock-

SERVICE SCENE

1 Drop arm 2 Drag link

Layout of steering linkage 3 Track rod 5 Inner track rod ball joint 4 Outer track rod ball joint 6 /dler arm

Steering box 2 Filler plug 1 Adjusting screw

worn and must be replaced. While you're working on the steering box, check the tightness of the three bolts securing it to the body member — the knocking noise you've heard could be caused by these bolts working loose.

On later cars check the condition of the flexible coupling connecting the lower end of the steering column to the steering box; if wear’s found then the

defective part should be renewed. Finally check the condition of the steering column bushes by trying to lift the steering wheel up and down; likewise get any worn parts renewed as soon as possible. To successfully check the condition of the front suspension, it’s essential to raise the front of the car and support it so that the front wheels are free to hang under their own weight. Now place a jack under the track control arm near the outer end and raise the jack to detect any wear in the suspension ball stud (not to exceed 0.060 in or 1.5 mm) and the inner track control arm bush. The top of the suspension unit should have no discernible play when you attempt to move the strut from side to side whilst gripping it at the lower spring seat. While you're checking the struts ensure that the coil springs aren't broken and that the struts aren't leaking damper fluid. Finally prise out the caps at the top of the struts and work some general purpose grease into the top swivel bearings. It may be easier to warm the grease up so that it’s semi-fluid and then pour it in to ensure that it gets into the bearings. Don't lower the car to the ground yet as you'll need the front up in the air for the next checks....

59

SERVICE SCENE

10a. Check condition of front disc brake pads Slacken the wheel nuts and remove the front wheels. If the front wheels are raised clear of the ground and your assistant’s still around, get him or her to apply the footbrake while you slacken the wheel nuts, otherwise you'll have to lower the car to the ground and then jack it up again. Take a look at the thickness of the friction

material: if it's 4 inch (1.6 mm) or less the pads will

have to be removed as detailed below, otherwise refit the road wheels and carry on to Item 11 before you lower the car to the ground. To remove the disc pads, first withdraw the spring clips and pull out the pad retaining pins and springs. The disc pads together with the anti-squeak shims can now be pulled out. Note their position and the directional arrow stamped on the shims for exact replacement. Clean the exposed caliper pistons with a

piece of cloth. Before fitting the new pads, it’s necessary to press the pistons back into their bores to

allow for the extra material.

thickness

of the new friction

When this is done, brake fluid will be forced back into the reservoir, so keep a careful eye on it and either place a cloth under it to catch any overflow or syphon some fluid out (but don’t get any in your mouth as it’s poisonous). An alternative is to open the caliper bleed screw and let some fluid out that way; tighten the bleed screw while there’s still pressure on

the piston, to avoid sucking in any air. Press in the pistons squarely and carefully to the bottom of their bores but take care not to damage them — a thinnish piece of hardwood is ideal for the job. Before you begin to fit the new pads it’s a good time to check the front wheel bearings for free play as described in Item 11. After you've carried out the

ps & Removing wire clip from disc pad retaining pins

Withdrawing a disc pad

Disc pad anti-squeal shim

SERVICE SCENE wheel bearing check, fit the new pads along with the anti-squeak shims, ensuring that their positions are exactly the same.

Now

refit the pad retaining

pins,

springs and the spring clips. You won't have to bleed the brakes after this task but it’s essential to pump the footbrake pedal a few times to force the pistons of the calipers out into contact with the new pads. Finally refit the road wheels, lower the car to the ground and check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir; top it

up as necessary.

10b. Check condition of front brake linings (1200 models with four wheel drum brakes)

material) and also the positions of the return springs. Now remove the shoe steady springs by gripping the slotted washer with a pair of pliers, pushing it inwards and rotating it through 90°. Retrieve the springs, cup washers and pins and put them ina tin or box where they can be found later. Lever the ends of the brake shoes against the spring tension, out and away from the fixed abutment slots and the wheel cylinders and disengage the springs. With the shoes now removed, wrap up a length of wire around the wheel cylinders to restrain the pistons. Don’t press the brake pedal with the

shoes removed.

Chock the rear wheels, apply the handbrake, raise the front of the car and support it on axle stands or packing blocks placed under the front suspension

crossmember. Back off the brake adjusters fully in the opposite

direction

to adjustment,

remove

the drum

retaining screw and then pull off the drum. First check that the hydraulic wheel

cylinders aren't leaking; if they are, refit the drum and get your

local Datsun garage to rectify the fault. Assuming the wheel cylinders are OK, check the amount

of usable

brake lining left above the rivet heads. If the linings are worn down almost to the rivets you'll have to fit replacement relined brake shoes. If your linings are

still usable, clean out the brake drum, refit it and adjust the brakes as detailed later. To remove the brake shoes, first make a note of the position of the shoes with regard to the leading and trailing ends (difference in the lengths of the exposed portions of shoe not covered by friction lining

Exploded view of front drum type brake

61

SERVICE SCENE

Clean the backplate and drum paintbrush. Apply a smear of high

using an old melting point

grease to the slots in the wheel cylinder pistons and

abutments and to the adjuster eccentric pins. Lay the new brake shoes on a clean surface in the correct replacement positions with regard to leading

and trailing edges, and engage the return springs in their original positions. Remove the wheel cylinder wire retainers and fit the brake shoes in position, taking care to locate the cam adjusters correctly on the shoes. Now refit the brake drums and adjust the brake shoe-to-drum clearance as follows. Front brake adjustment: Turn one of the brake adjusters with the correct size ring spanner until the road wheel's locked, then back the adjuster off just enough so that the road wheel can be turned without binding. Repeat operation at the other adjuster on the wheel, then adjust the other front wheel in the same Front drum type brake with the drum removed

way.

11. Check front wheel bearings for wear

,

f Location of front drum brake adjusters

This task can be carried out with reasonable ease on all models, but on disc brake models it’s necessary that the pistons are pushed back in their bores — see 10a.

Prise off the hub dust cap, remove the split pin and castellated nut lock cap. Check that the hub endfloat’s between 0.002. and 0.004 in (0.05 to 0.10mm) using either feeler blades or a dial gauge. If the hub bearings require adjustment then tighten the hub nut to a torque setting of between 15 and 20 Ibf

ft (2.0 to 2.8 kgf m) using a torque wrench, then slacken the hub nut off by 1 to 14 flats of the nut until the end float’s between the limits mentioned above. Now turn the roadwheel and check that it turns freely without any undue roughness or tightness (if you suspect that the bearings are faulty then refer to Item 1 of the 15 O00-mile Service Schedule which deals with the removal and checking of the front wheel bearings). Now refit the castellated nut lock cap and insta!l a new split pin. Finally refit the dust cap and brake pads (where applicable). Note: If the pistons have been forced back into the caliper bores then it’s essential to apply the footbrake several times to bring the pads into contact with the discs.

12. Check condition of rear brake linings Models with automatic adjustment: Chock the front wheels, slacken the rear wheel nuts, raise the rear of the car and support it on axle stands or strong Checking wrench

62

the front bearing pre-load using a torque

wooden packing blocks. Release the handbrake and remove the road wheels. Unscrew the countersunk screw (if fitted) which retains the brake drum and remove the drum. If the drum’s tight, tap it from behind with a soft mallet evenly at severai points to

SERVICE SCENE ease it off.

With the drum now removed, inspect the linings for wear and the hydraulic wheel cylinder for fluid leakage. If you notice any fluid leakage then refit the drum and entrust the rectification to your local Datsun garage as this task’'s beyond the scope of this Handbook, or alternatively follow the instructions

given in the Haynes Owner's Workshop Manual if you feel like having a go yourself. If the wheel cylinder’s dry and the brake linings have a reasonable amount of wear left in them (they're not nearly worn to the rivets) you can now clean off the brake dust deposits, using an old paintbrush, from both linings and drum, then refit the drums. (Note: Brake dust contains asbestos and is harmful to you if you inhale it, so don't try to blow it

away). If by chance the linings require renewing then trade in the worn shoes against an exchange set of relined rear brake shoes. Before you attempt to remove the old shoes, make a _ sketch of the arrangement to avoid confusion of slip-ups when you come to fit the new ones later. Depress the shoe steady spring cup washers and turn them through 90° to release them from the steady pins. Prise the leading shoe away from the fixed abutment at its lower end on the brake backplate, and extract the trailing shoe from the handbrake lever mechanism. By pulling outwards against the return springs remove both brake shoes and springs. Before fitting the new shoes, clean the handbrake lever mechanism, backplate and brake drums. Now examine the tip of the lever which rotates the adjuster nut; if it's badly worn a new lever should be fitted.

Lightly

smear

the

moving

parts

of the

lever

mechanism with high melting point grease (not the tip of the lever nor the adjuster nut serrations) and apply a little also to the shoe bearing surfaces of the backplate and the engagement slots in the backplate fixed abutment and the wheel cylinder slots. Don't apply the grease too liberally, and avoid getting any on the friction material of the brake shoes. Lay the new brake shoes down on a clean flat surface in their correct positions and engage the shoe return springs. Make sure that the shoes are in the

Exploded view of self-adjusting rear brake 1 Backplate 2 Bleed nipple

3 Self-adjusting wheel 4 Wheel! cylinder 5 Shoe assembly

6 Return spring

SERVICE SCENE correct position with respect to the leading and trailing edges and that the return springs are engaged in the correct holes as originally fitted. Exert slight outward pressure against the return springs, offer up the brake shoes to the backplate and engage the ends of both shoes in the fixed abutment slots then prise

the brake shoes outwards to engage the lower ends with the wheel cylinder unit piston slot and the adjusting nut. Push the steady pins through the hole in the backplate and brake shoes, align the end of the pin with the slot in the cup washer and spring, depress the steady spring and turn it through 90° to engage it in the locked position. Refit the brakedrum, but if you find that the drum’s difficult to slide over the shoes,

screw the adjuster nut as far as it will go towards the wheel cylinder. Secure the drum with the countersunk screw (where applicable) and then apply the handbrake several times to adjust the brake shoes. Finally rotate the roadwheel to check for binding — you'll probably feel s/ight drag but this should be ignored. Lower the

car and tighten the wheelnuts. Models with manual adjustment:

Raise the car,

support it and take off the rear road wheels. Remove the brake drum retaining screw and turn the single adjuster fully back in an anti-clockwise brake spanner. brake using a square-ended direction Remove the drum and check the brake linings and wheel cylinder conditions as described above.

If the linings are OK, clean out the brake dust and refit

the

brake

drum.

Secure

the

drum

with

the

retaining screw (if fitted), refit the road wheel and turn the brake adjuster in a clockwise direction until the road wheel can’t be turned by hand. Now let off the brake adjuster until the road wheel can be turned without binding. If you've got to renew the brake shoes, then release the shoe steady pins by depressing the steady

pin cups and turning them through 90°. Take a note of the shoe and return spring positions before levering the lower ends of the shoes out of the wheel cylinder cut-outs. Detach the top ends of the shoes from the adjuster unit and lift away the shoes and springs. Clean all the components and apply a little high melting point grease to the adjuster wedges, the slots in the wheel cylinder pistons, and the backplate contact points.

Rear brake adjuster

Exploded view of standard type rear brake 1 Backplate

2 Bleed nipple 3 Wheel cylinder 4 Shoe assembly

5 Return spring

SERVICE SCENE Lay the new shoes in their correct positions on a

clean surface, reconnect the return springs, offer them up to the backplate and guide the handbrake cross-lever into the handbrake cut-out. Fix the ends of the brake shoes into the adjuster wedge and wheel cylinder slots and secure the shoe steady pins in position with the spring and cup washers. Now refit

the brakedrum and its retaining screw, and adjust the brakes as described above.

13. Check clutch adjustment You'll

check

need

to get underneath

unless

inspection

you're

lucky

the car for this

enough

to

have

pit. If you jack the car up remember

an to

support it firmly.

Push the clutch release arm forward and check that there’s the correct amount of free play (see Vita/ Statistics). \f you find that the clutch requires adjustment, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster nut until you obtain the desired amount of free play. Now tighten the locknut up against the adjuster nut

and check the free play at the clutch pedal,(see Vita/ Statistics again). Don't lower the car yet as you're going to check the gearbox oil level next....

14. Check manual gearbox oil level (for automatic models see Item 18). To check the gearbox oil level accurately the car should be on level ground, but you'll find it difficult to undo the level plug without raising the car. The gearbox level plug is the upper one; the lower one at the rear of the gearbox is the drain plug and incidentally the gearbox is ‘filled for life’ so no oil change will normally be necessary unless the oil becomes contaminated or the gearbox is dismantled. Before you unscrew the gearbox level plug wipe the plug and its surrounding area with a rag to prevent any dirt falling into the gearbox when the plug’s removed. Now unscrew the plug and if there's enough oil in the gearbox it will just trickle out of the hole. If it’s necessary to top up then use an SAE 90EP gear oil. This can be bought in a dispenser with a

1.0 to 2.0 mm

(2)

(0.039 to 0.079 in)

Clutch adjustment point on model!s fitted with cable operated clutch 1 Adjusting nut 2 Locknut

Adjustment point for hydraulically operated clutches 1 Locknut 3 Clutch release arm 2 Adjusting nut

2.5 to 3.5 mm

(0.098 to 0.138 in)

Free movement of clutch release lever on cable-operated clutch

1 Dust excluder 2 Clutch release arm

Drain plug (A) and filler plug (B) on manual gearbox

SERVICE SCENE plastic tube which makes it easy to get the oil into the orifice. While you're checking the gearbox oil level look for any oil leaks, the quantity of oil you have to add to top up the gearbox will be a good indication of how serious any leakage is.

15. Check rear axle oil level The rear axle level plug can be undone using a hexagonal type wrench. Before unscrewing the plug wipe the plug and its surrounding area with a cloth. Now remove the level plug and if the oil level’s correct it will just trickle over the edge of the hole. If topping-up is necessary use an SAE Q9OEP gear oil (preferably in the special dispenser) and add the oil until it just trickles from the lower edge of the filler plug hole. Refit the filler plug. Now is a good time to check that the rear axle breather pipe’s clear of dirt, to avoid a pressure buildup occurring, which could cause premature failure of the hub oil seals. Pull out the breather pipe from its seating on the right-hand side of the differential case. Use a piece of stiff wire to check that there’s no obstruction in the pipe before refitting it.

16.

Check bodywork and fittings Check

first of all the door, engine and luggage

compartment hinges and catches. While you're carrying out these checks you can also lubricate these components. Wipe off any excess lubricant now or somebody will end up wiping it off on their best clothes later. The seat belts should be inspected for cuts, chafing and twisting and if they're getting tatty then it's best to renew them as their safety factor will be reduced. Finally, the heater air intake box drain holes can

be checked. If the holes are blocked, clean them out with a piece of stiff wire.

17. Road test the car This is necessary not only to check the work you've already done but to get the car up to normal running temperature, as you're going to check and

adjust the carburettor and, if your Datsun’s an automatic transmission model, check the transmission fluid level. On the road test you're interested in three main points — the brakes, steering and engine performance.

Choose a good stretch of road which will test out these things. Try the brakes on a level, dry road surface and ask yourself ‘Are they positive?’, and ‘Does the car pull up in a straight line?’ Test the handbrake efficiency on a steep slope and see that it holds satisfactorily. All should be well if you've carried out the checks 66 and rectification work properly. Remember, however,

Checking automatic transmission fluid level that if you’ve renewed the disc pads or brake shoes they must be given time to ‘bed in’ before peak braking efficiency can be expected.

18. Check automatic (where applicable)

transmission

fluid level

Note: the automatic transmission fluid level can only be accurately checked when the transmission has reached its normal operating temperature. Move the selector lever to the P (Park) position,

switch off the engine and wait two minutes for the fluid to drain from the filler neck. The dipstick’s located at the rear right-hand side of the engine; remove it, wipe it off, re-insert it and then withdraw it

again. The fluid level should be between the ‘L’ and ‘F’ marks. The distance between the two marks represents approximately 1 pint (0.57 litres). Top up the level with the recommended type of transmission

fluid (see Vita/ Statistics) through the dipstick tube.

19. Check and adjust carburettor Note: Any type of carburettor can only be adjusted successfully after the sparking plugs, valve clearances, contact breaker points, and_ ignition timing have been attended to. It’s also essential that the carburettor’s not worn, and that the engine has reached its normal operating temperature. Both the 1200 and 120Y models are fitted with a Hitachi 306 carburettor which is a_ twin-choke downdraught type. The choke is operated manually by the control knob on the instrument panel. Two types of adjustment may be necessary; resetting the

idling speed and checking the choke fast idle speed. The idling speed is the speed at which the engine is running at normal operating temperature with your

foot off the accelerator, while the choke idle speed is the speed the engine runs at when started from cold with the choke knob pulled right out. One word of advice — if the engine starts and runs satisfactorily, don't tamper with the carburettor! Idling speed adjustment: With the engine warm,

adjust the throttle

stop screw

to obtain

an idling

SERVICE SCENE speed of 600 rpm (700 rpm on automatic transmission models with the selector lever set at ‘N’). (Note: To accurately set the idling speed it's essential to connect up a tachometer if one isn't

already fitted.) Next adjust the mixture control screw in or out as necessary to achieve the highest possible engine speed. Finally adjust the throttle stop screw to reduce the engine speed to the correct idling rpm. It will be noted that there’s a limiter cap and stop on the mixture control screw to prevent it being screwed in too far and damaging the seat (see illustration). Fast idle adjustment: With the engine switched off, remove the retaining bracket nut and centre wing

20. Check and renew wiper blades If it's completely

washers

noticed that the wiper blades aren't cleaning the windscreen when the

are operated, check the blades for signs of

deterioration. To remove the blades, press in the tab to release the dimple from its recess on the wiper arm and pull the blade out of the arm. Refit the new blades using the reverse procedure. The wiper arms can be removed by undoing the

retaining nuts and pulling the arms off the splines. Before refitting the arms ensure that the drive spindles are in the parked position and then refit the arms so that the blades are level with the bottom of the windscreen as shown in the illustration overleaf.

nut and lift off the air cleaner assembly. Pull the choke

knob right out and take a look inside the air inlet of the carburettor. Using a set of feeler gauges or a twist drill of the right diameter, check that the clearance between the edge of the choke flap valve and the inside wall of the carburettor is 0.050 in (1.27 mm). If the clearance isn't correct the only method of adjustment is to bend the choke-to-throttle connecting rod on the side of the carburettor. This can be done using a pair of pliers, but take great care not to bend it too far. One word of warning: if using a twist drill to measure the clearance, don’t drop it into the carburettor inlet; if you problem on your hands!

do you could have a real Finally refit the air cleaner,

start the engine and check that the engine runs OK with the choke out.

Carburettor adjustment screws 1 Throttle stop adjustment screw 2 Mixture contro/ screw 3 Limiter cap 4 Limiter stop

Removing a windscreen wiper blade

Removing a windscreen wiper arm

67

SERVICE SCENE TABLEA Specific Gravity — Battery fully charged

1.268 at

100°F or 38°C

(.272.at 1.276 at 1.280 at 1.284 at 1.288 at 1.292 at 1.296 at

90°Fior32-C 80°F or 27°C 70°F or 21°C 60°F or 16°C 50°F or 10°C 40°F or 4°C 30°F or-1.5°C

The following tools, lubricants, etc. are likely to be needed. Set of spark plugs (4), air filter, Vaseline, multi-

temperature y " ve “i fi i v

4 “ " i Y os i

TABLE B

Correct position of wiper blades in the parked position

EVERY 10000 MILES (16 000 KM) OR 10 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (In addition to the items listed in all the earlier Schedules)

electrolyte

Specific Gravity — Battery fully discharged

7.098 at 100°F or 38°C

1.102 1.106 1.110 1.114 1.118 1.122 1.126

at at at at at at at

electrolyte

90°F or 32°C 80°F or 27°C 70°F or 27°C 60°F or 16°C 50°F or 10°C 40°F or 4°C 30°F or-1.5°C

temperature

% f i Mf x us “4

‘ x f “ i e

purpose grease, hydrometer.

1. Renew spark plugs The procedure for removing and refitting spark plugs is described in the 5000 mile Service Schedule; refer to Vital Statistics for the correct plug type and gap setting.

2. Clean battery specific gravity

terminals

and

check

the

If you've got a hydrometer, now's the time to use it to check the battery specific gravity (SG for short).

If one cell has a low reading it indicates loss of electrolyte (unlikely unless the casing’s cracked) or an internal fault. In either case, the end is in sight so be prepared to purchase a.new battery before it lets you down. From time to time corrosion may appear on the battery terminals or on the ends of the main battery leads. Where this has occurred detach the battery leads (negative first), release the clamping plate and lift out

the

battery.

A solution

of warm

water

and

If the battery’s been on charge, leave it for an hour or

bicarbonate of soda will remove the corrosion; brush it on to the terminals, making sure that none gets inside the cells. Dip the lead ends straight into the mixture, but too much corrosion will neutralize it so

two if you can, as it warms up when being charged.

you

Assuming that it’s fully charged, the SG should be as given in Table A according to the battery temperature.

may

need

a second

mix. Also clean

round

the

battery compartment if there’s corrosion there too.

During these cleaning operations take care that the mixture doesn't get into your eyes, as there's a certain amount of splashing and bubbling as it does its work. When everything's clean again wipe every part dry with a clean cloth. An underseal type of paint can be used in the battery compartment if there's been corrosion, as this provides a good degree of protection. Other parts should be smeared with Vaseline before being bolted up. Make sure everything's covered, but only very lightly. Refit the battery

and connect the leads (positive first), smearing a little more Vaseline on to the lead ends and terminals.

3. Replace fuel filter A disposable

68

Location of fuel filter

type fuel filter's fitted in the fuel

pump inlet pipe on the right-hand side of the engine.

SERVICE SCENE The best time to replace it is when the fuel tank level is low, otherwise it will be necessary to plug the fuel pipes to prevent loss of petrol. Disconnect the inlet and outlet pipes, make a note of which way up the filter is fitted then pull it out of the bracket and discard it. Push the new filter into the bracket and reconnect the fuel pipes.

4. Fit new air filter element

same applies to any other parts which show wear.

The air filter element does the vital job of ensuring that only clean air enters the engine, and as it’s simple to replace it shouldn't be neglected. Unscrew the wing nut from the centre of the air cleaner casing, remove the top cover and lift out the filter element. Wipe out the inside of the casing and top cover and check the rubber seals; it’s unlikely that they have deteriorated, but if they have replace them. Drop in a new filter element, refit the top cover and secure with the wing nut.

5. Check propeller shaft and universal joints You'll

have

at the point where the handbrake cable emerges through the floor of the car (handbrake lever end) and check out the condition and security of the cable. When you come across the yokes and pins check for wear and see that the retaining split pins are in position before lubricating them. Check also the condition of the flexible compensator bracket — if it’s deteriorating get it renewed as soon as possible. The

to raise the rear of the car for this

You

heave

the

car

on

strong

packing

blocks

or

axle

stands before getting underneath. Check first of all if there’s

any wear in the universal joints by grasping both parts of the joint and moving them. If any wear's evident then get your local Datsun garage to fit a new joint. Finally check

the tightness of the flange coupling nuts and bolts. Don’t lower the car yet as you're going to need it up for the next check...

6. Check

handbrake

pivots

for

wear

and

security Although this is only a check it’s as well to lubricate the necessary parts at the same time. Begin

now

lower the car to the ground and

the

10000-mile

service check successfully completed!

EVERY 15 000 MILES (24 000 KM) OR 15 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the relevant items listed in the 250, 1000, 2500 and 5000 miles Schedules) The following tools, lubricants, etc. may be required: Torque wrench, brake bleeding tube and clean jam jar, miscellaneous spanners and screwdrivers; dial gauge or feeler blades. Brass or copper drift.

Front wheel

check, so remember to chock the front wheels and to support

can

a sigh of relief as that’s

bearing set, front hub oil seal (2),

wheel bearing grease, split pins, brake fluid, caliper bolt lockwashers (4)

1. Remove and inspect front wheel bearings Note: In the case of disc brakes this task will involve disconnecting the front brake pipes in order to lift away the calipers. Later when the brake pipes are reconnected the system will have to be bled. The task of bleeding the brakes is described in this section but those who don’t wish to tackle this task should entrust the whole of the work in Item 1 to their Datsun dealers. Mode!s with front disc brakes: Raise the car up at the front, remove the road wheels and support the car on axle stands or strong packing blocks placed under the suspension crossmember. Remove the disc pads, noting their exact positions in case they have to be refitted again, as described in Item 10a of the 5000 mile Service Schedule. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, spread a thin piece of polythene sheeting over the neck and refit the cap. This will prevent excessive loss of brake fluid. Disconnect the metal brake pipe

(joining the caliper to the flexible hose) at the point where it joins the flexible hose. Unscrew and remove the two caliper mounting bolts and lockwashers and lift away the caliper. If you've got some plastic blanking plugs you can plug the ends of the pipes to prevent any further fluid leakage. Now go on to the instructions for hub removal, below. Lifting out the air cleaner element

own

Mode!s with front drum brakes: Fortunately if you a 1200 model fitted with drum brakes there are

69

SERVICE SCENE off the hub dust cap, pull out the split pin and lift away the castellated nut lockcap. Undo the hub nut and lift away the thrust washer. The hub can now be pulled off, but while doing so place your hand over the outside of the hub to catch the outer bearing as it drops out. When the hub/disc assembly has been removed, prise out the hub seal and lift out the inner bearing.

Now thoroughly clean the wheel bearings and the inside of the hub in petrol or paraffin, but keep all bearings from one side together as each is mated with a particular outer track which is still inside the hub. Also clean the stub axle and the special distance piece, which may have come off with the hub, though generally it remains in position on the stub axle. When all these components are thoroughly cleaned and dried, carry out a careful inspection of

the wheel bearings and outer tracks. In this inspection you're looking for pitting, scoring, rough spots and signs of overheating (a bluish colour). If you find that

G_D

@

a particular bearing’s faulty, then replace both inner and outer bearings on that particular side of the car.

G

(

(Note: bearings should always be renewed as complete assemblies and on no account mix up parts of bearings from one side of the car to the other). If your bearings are sound then you can skip the next bit and proceed to the reassembly stage. If you have to renew your bearings, then drift out the outer bearing tracks using a brass or copper drift. Now press in the new outer tracks. Hub reassembiy and refitting: Carefully pack the

ea

inside of the hub and bearings with the recommended Location of disc brake caliper retaining bolts no problems, simply proceed as follows:

remove

the

brake

drum

grease. Don’t overpack the hub as the hub seal will be overloaded and leak prematurely. Place the hub ana and

Hub removal and dismantling (all models): Prise

70

Removing front wheel bearing dust cap

clean surface with its inner end facing upwards. Place the inner bearing in position, lightly grease the new

seal and press it in with the flange facing the bearing.

Withdrawing a front hub bearing, thrust washer and nut

SERVICE SCENE disconnected, and vice versa. It should also be noted that the rear reservoir supplies the rear brakes and the front reservoir supplies the front brakes). You'll need a helper, preferably two, to assist you in bleeding the system of any air. One helper to pump the brake pedal, the other to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up, while you attend to the bleed nipples and control the bleeding operation. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and discard the polythene sheeting which you positioned over the filler hole. Top up the fluid level, in fact it’s a

good idea to fill a little higher than normal.

If your

Datsun has a servo unit, pump the brake pedal to destroy the vacuum. Now get together your brake bleeding tube, a clean jam jar, and a spanner

(preferably a ring type) which will will fit the bleed nipples. Put a small quantity of brake fluid into the jam jar. The Sectional view of front hub — shaded area indicates

grease packing point The hub seal must be pressed in until it’s flush with the end of the hub. Now fit the special distance piece, bevelled edge upwards, into the centre of the hub seal. The hub can now be turned over and the smaller outer bearing fitted. The complete hub assembly can now be refitted but ensure that no grease gets on to the brake disc (where applicable) or linings; if it does, wipe it off with

a petrol moistened rag. Refit the hub thrust washer and hub nut. Tighten the hub nut to a torque wrench setting of 20 Ibf ft (2.8 kgf m) whilst slowly rotating

the hub. Now back the nut off by 1 to 14 flats (not turns) and check that the hub end-float’s between 0.0015 and 0.004 in (0.04 to 0.10 mm). A dial gauge is the most accurate method of checking the end-float but if you haven't got access to one you can use feeler gauges placed between the hub nut and thrust washer. If the end-float’s within these limits refit the castellated nut cap and secure it in position with a new split pin. Refit the hub dust cap but don’t put any grease in it. The brake drum can now be refitted, or the caliper

followed by the brake pads (as described in the 5000mile Schedule). New caliper bolt lock washers should

be fitted and the bolts should be tightened to a torque wrench setting of 72 Ibf ft (9.9 kgf m). Don’t forget to secure the hydraulic hose and metal pipe where they've been disconnected. It will now be necessary to bleed disc brakes, using the following method.

Bleeding the hydraulic braking system (Note: On models fitted with the dual braking system (two reservoirs) it is not necessary to bleed the rear brakes if only the front brake pipes have been

bleed

nipples

should

have

plastic blanking

caps over them to prevent any dirt blocking them up. Remove the blanking cap from the bleed nipple on the front left-hand caliper, fit the spanner and bleed tube over the nipple and immerse the other end of the tube

in the fluid in the jam jar. Slacken the nipple 4 to 3 of a turn, no more. Now get your helper to pump the brake pedal ina

succession of long and short rapid strokes allowing the pedal to be fully released at the end of each stroke. Whilst this is happening you'll be watching the

stream of air bubbles emerging from the end of the bleed tube together with the brake fluid. Your second helper should meanwhile be maintaining the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. When you notice that there are no more air bubbles emerging from the tube, tell your pedalpushing friend to hold the brake pedal fully down while you can tighten the bleed nipple. When you've done this (not too tight or you'll strip the threads) refit the blanking cap and let your helper release the pedal. Now repeat the whole operation for the other front wheel, but don’t let your helpers depress the brake pedal in between bleeding each caliper or the air will be forced around the system. After you've bled the front brakes repeat this operation on the rear brakes /f necessary. Hopefully when you've bled all the brakes the brake pedal should have a ‘normal’ feel. If it has excessive travel which diminishes after you've pumped it a few times, you've still got some air in the system and you'll have to bleed it again. Finally get your helper to depress the brake pedal while you inspect the brake unions, hoses and bleed nipples to

see if there’s any fluid seepage. Note: Don’t re-use the old brake fluid which you've bled out of the system — it contains air and will have deteriorated anyway.

7

SERVICE SCENE

2. Check wheel alignment This is a task which can only be done by a Datsun dealer or other garage using specialist equipment.

EVERY 24 000 MILES (40 000 KM) OR 24 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (in addition to the items listed in the 250 miles and 1000 miles Schedules) The following tools, lubricants, etc. may be required: Rear axle level plug spanner (hexagonal type), selection of spanners, garden hose and water supply. Volume of antifreeze, (dependent on protection

required), 44 pints of SAE 90 EP gear oil.

1. Drain and renew gearbox oil (Note: Due to the advances made in development of lubricating oils, most

the car

manufacturers no longer consider it necessary to change the gearbox and rear axle oil and merely recommend that they are topped up at specified intervals. However for the enthusiastic Datsun owner who wishes to get the most out of his car we suggest

the transmission years).

oils are changed

every couple

of

Ideally this job should be done over an inspection pit, but if one isn’t available jack up both ends of the car and support it firmly and evenly on concrete blocks or axle stands. It’s also better to do the job after the car has been taken for a run so that the oil's warm. On models fitted with automatic transmission it's not necessary to change the gearbox oil. Place a container with a capacity of at least 24 pints (1.5 litres) beneath the gearbox drain plug

(located at the rear of the gearbox casing). Remove the filler/level plug and then the drain plug, allow the oil to drain out for about ten minutes, and then replace the drain plug and tighten it firmly. Refill the gearbox via the filler plug with hypoid EP90 gear oil

until it runs out of the plug hole. Refit and tighten the

filler/level plug.

2. Drain and renew rear axle oil

72

The procedure for draining and refilling the rear axle is basically the same procedure as that described for the gearbox, but on some models a hexagonal type wrench will be required to remove the drain and filler plugs. These are obtainable from most motorist accessory shops. After draining the oil and refitting the drain plug, fill the axle to the level of the filler plug hole with hypoid EP90 gear oil (approx. 2 pints/1 litre).

3. Drain and antifreeze

flush

cooling

system

and

add

The antifreeze should be renewed every two years and the system flushed through to clean out any muck which may be in it. Begin the draining operation by placing a suitable container under the radiator (something like the plastic washing-up bowl used for draining the engine oil will do), then undo the plastic radiator drain tap. The coolant will start to run out and now, if the radiator cap’s removed and the heater control moved to the HOT position, will flow out much faster. When the flow’s stopped, open the cylinder block drain tap and drain the block. When all the flow from here has hosepipe,

stopped too, get a can and run water through

of water or a the system to

remove any sediment that might be present. A proprietary flushing compound can be used if you've any suspicions of the system being blocked, but follow the maker's instructions. When you're satisfied that the system’s clean, close the drain taps but leave the heat control at HOT. It's not absolutely essential to use antifreeze when refilling the system in warmer weather, but it’s preferable because it contains special corrosion inhibitors which all good antifreeze has. Antifreeze can stay in the system for two years, and once it’s in there’s no need to drain it out during the warmer weather. Here’s a table which you can use as a guide to how much antifreeze is required. Antifreeze volume 25%

30% 35%

Protection to

Quantity of antifreeze required

—26°C(-15°F) —33°C (-38°F) —39°C (-38°F)

2.25 pints (1.40 litres) 2.70 pints (1.50 litres) 3.15 pints (1.76 litres)

Having decided how much you need, the antifreeze can be poured straight into the radiator followed by enough clean water to bring the level up to within 1 inch from the bottom of the filler neck. Run the engine at a fast idie to let the mixture circulate; as this happens the leve! may fall as airlocks are displaced, then will fall quite sharply as the thermostat opens. Finally top the radiator up to the recommended level and refit the cap. Just to check that there are no airlocks, run the car for a short distance, then stop and allow the engine to cool, and recheck the coolant level.

4. Renew brake fluid and all rubber parts in the hydraulic braking system This a job for your Datsun garage, or for the enthusiastic owner by following the procedures in our

Owner's Workshop Manual. The reason for doing this is that the brake fluid deteriorates after a long period

SERVICE SCENE in service, as do the rubber parts (e.g. hoses, seals, etc.). Don't neglect a job like this, it’s for your safety and everyone else’s too.

EVERY 30 000 MILES (48 000 KM) OR 30 MONTHS, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST (!n addition to the items listed in the 250, 1000, 2500, 5000 and 10 000 mile Schedules) The following required:

tools,

lubricants

Miscellaneous spanners multi-purpose grease, grease new handbrake cable.

etc.

may

be

and_ screwdrivers, gun and possibly a

1. Grease steering linkage ball joints First jack up the front of the car and support it firmly on concrete blocks or axle stands. Take a look at the steering linkage and it will be seen that there are six ball joints — two on each track rod and two on the drag link. If the ball joints aren't fitted with grease nipples, unscrew the blanking plugs and replace them with grease nipples. Check the ball joints for wear as described in the

5000 mile service, and if they're OK give each ball joint a few pumps with the grease gun. If necessary turn the wheels from lock-to-lock to gain access to each grease nipple.

2. Check cable

condition

of handbrake

lever

and

Begin your checks at the handbrake lever. Chock the front road wheels, release the handbrake and pull the handbrake

lever on

one

notch

at a time.

If you

suspect any of the ratchet teeth to be worn or broken, then remove the handbrake lever for closer examination. This entails removing the handbrake cover and undoing the cable clip. Undo the nuts and washers which secure the handbrake lever to the floor of the car. Lift the handbrake cable away and closely examine the ratchet teeth. If the lever assembly’s sound, lubricate the ratchet teeth with a multi-purpose grease before refitting it. Carry on your inspection down the handbrake cable and along to the point where it joins the lever arm at the back of the rear axle; also check the cables that pass out to each rear brake. If the handbrake cable’s frayed or corroded then it’s best to renew it as described below. If the cable only requires adjustment this point’s covered a little further on. Handbrake cable renewal: The handbrake cable is in two sections and each section can be renewed separately. The front or primary section passes from

Removing a steering ball joint grease plug

the handbrake

lever, through a compensator

bracket

on the axle casing and on to the left-hand rear brake. The rear section is connected betweeen the compensator bracket and right-hand rear brake. To remove the front section of the cable, chock the front wheels and raise the rear of the car. Disconnect the front cable from the rear one by unscrewing the turnbuckle which is located above the

propeller shaft (see illustration overleaf). From inside the car, remove the cover from the handbrake lever and disconnect the wire from the handbrake warning switch if fitted. Undo the two nuts securing the handbrake lever to the floor, remove the cable clip and lift out the lever and cable. Disconnect the cable from the handbrake lever and fit the new cable using the reverse procedure. To remove the rear cable, disconnect it from the turnbuckle, remove the two return springs at the back of the rear brakes, and remove the clevis pins securing the cable ends to the brake operating levers. Detach the lockplate from the compensator attached to the rear axle casing and disconnect the cable. Fit the new cable using the reverse procedure, and adjust the handbrake as described in the following section. Handbrake adjustment: Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on blocks or axle stands. With the handbrake lever down (off) spin the rear wheels by hand to ensure that the brakes aren't binding or partially seized. Slacken the locknut on the turnbuckle located above the propeller shaft (see illustration overleaf). Now turn the turnbuckle in the appropriate direction so that the rear wheels are locked on when the lever is pulled up five notches, and turn easily when the lever is released. When the adjustment’s correct

tighten the turnbuckle locknut.

73

SERVICE SCENE

1

Handbrake lever

2 3

Cable Cable clip

4 5

Layout of handbrake Lock plate Turnbuckle (cable adjuster and connector)

lever and cable

6 7

Cable Cable

8

Flexible cable support

9

Return spring

70 11

Clevis fork Shroud

SPRING We've

put this one first as it’s less depressing than Autumn — although there’s probably more work involved.

Underside of car In spring,

we

venture

to suggest,

an

owner's

fancy lightly turns to thoughts of cleaning off all the accumulated muck of winter from underneath the car. Without a shadow of doubt, the best time to clean underneath is the worst time from the discomfort point of view — that is, when the car's been driven in the wet and all the dirt’s nicely softened up. So let's

Location of handbrake cable adjuster

talk first about the easier way out - steam cleaning or pressure cleaning.

OTHER REGULAR MAINTENANCE

These aren't D-I-Y jobs, and can only be done at

If you've carried out the procedures we've detailed so far, at more or less the prescribed intervals of mileage or time, then you'll have gone a long way towards getting the best out of your Datsun in terms of both performance and long life. That's the good news. The other kind is that there are always other areas not dealt with in the regular servicing schedules, where neglect can spell trouble. We reckon a bit of extra time spent on your car at the beginning and end of the winter will be repaid in terms of peace of mind and prevention of trouble. The suggested attentions which follow have been divided

into

Spring

nothing

to

and

Autumn

nrevent

74 frequently if you like!

you

sections from

—

doing

but them

there's more

larger garages,

usually those which

undertake

body

repair jobs. You may feel this method’s unnecessarily

expensive, but it’s generally preferable to grovelling about underneath and getting filthy and uncomfortable doing it yourself. However, for the owner who really wants to do it by hand, here goes.... You'll need paraffin or a water soluble soivent, water (and preferably a hose), a wire brush, a scraper and stiff-bristle brush. If you think the car floor may leak, remove the carpets or they'll get wet; this will also help you pinpoint the places where water's getting in. To start with, jack the car up as high as possible, preferably at one side or one end. For your own

safety, support

it on ramps or concrete

or wooden

SERVICE SCENE blocks and chock the wheels which are on the ground. Unless both rear wheels are raised, also apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear. Now get underneath (you've put it off as long as you can!) and cover the brake discs and calipers (where applicable) with polythene bags to stop mud and water getting into them. Next loosen any

Bodywork This too will have suffered from all the muck and salt that’s around during winter, and there’s no better time to wash it thoroughly and check for stone chips and rust spots. You're bound to find some despite the regular washing you've given the car — or meant to — throughout the winter. Treat as for rusty scratches

encrusted dirt and, working from one end or one side,

(see Body Beautiful).

scrape or brush this away. The paraffin or solvent can be used where there's oil contamination. After all the

After the touch-up paint has thoroughly hardened, it’s worth giving the car a good polish to prepare it for the long hot summer ahead (well, there’s no harm in hoping). If you're feeling really energetic you could do the interior as well (Body

brushing and scraping, a final wash down with the hose will remove the last of the dirt and mud. You can now check for leaks in the floor; if you find any, dry the area carefully then use a mastic type

sealer to plug the offending gap. Hollow sections of doors and bodywork can be sprayed or brush-painted with a rust inhibitor to provide some extra protection. lf there are signs of the underseal breaking away, this is a good opportunity to patch it up. Undersealing paint’s available in spray cans or tins from accessory shops; one small point about putting the stuff on though, and that’s to make sure the area is clean and dry, otherwise you're wasting your time. While you’re underneath, have a good look round for signs of rusting. Likely places are the body sills, floor panels and wings, and if you find any have a word with your local Datsun man or body repair shop

before things get too bad.

Beautiful again) but the most important cleaning jobs are now done.

Engine air intake On some models there's a lever on the air cleaner

intake spout marked ‘SUMMER/WINTER’. This lever controls the temperature of the air entering the carburettor so, in anticipation of warmer days ahead, set the lever to the ‘Summer’ position.

AUTUMN With winter on the way, your car's electrical system is going to take much more of a beating than it has during the last few months. Now — and not ona dark night miles from anywhere in a snowstorm — is

Temperature selector lever on air cleaner

75

SERVICE SCENE the time to check the vital components. Where other Sections are referred to in brackets, the detailed procedure’s described there.

Cooling System

Battery Ensure

that

it's topped

Schedule). Check and clean Service Schedule).

as

up

(Weekly

correctly

necessary

(70

000-mile

Check condition and tension (5000-mile Schedule).

Check all hoses (5000-mile Service Schedule).

Drain, flush and refill system with new antifreeze

mixture if necessary (24 000 mile Service Schedule).

Carburettor air intake (where applicable)

Reset to ‘Winter’ position (see Spring Section).

Fan Belt Service

Tyres Check

Check operation (Weekly Schedule). Renew any failed bulbs (/n an Emergency) check for faults as necessary (Troubleshooter 6).

tread

and

condition

(Weekly

Schedule).

Remember that you may well have to drive in slippery conditions.

Lights or

Wipers/Washers These are going to get a lot of use so check the

76

e Schedule). wiper arms and blades (5000-mile Servic ly Schedule) Top up the washer and reservoir (Week and check operation.

Bodywork Finally, if you've got any energy left, wash the car and polish it thoroughly to help protect the paint against the winter elements.

Body Beautiful \f you've Lought this book intending to do all the routine servicing of your car yourself, then you'll surely want to keep the bodywork and inside of the car looking good too. And for anyone who doesn’t here’s how to do it

anyway ...

It's always a good idea to clean the interior first; this way you won't get the dust all over your nicely

polished exterior — or the car's! Begin by removing all the contents, not forgetting the odds and ends in the pockets and glovebox. Then take out all the mats and carpets,

which

should

be

shaken

and

brushed,

or

better still vacuum-cleaned. If they need further cleaning this can be done with a carpet shampoo, but let them dry thoroughly before you put them back. Any underfelt should be taken out and shaken, too, but don’t try washing this or it may end up in rather more pieces than you started with. If the carpets should just happen to be in such a bad state of decay that they don’t merit cleaning, why not get yourself a decent

set of replacements?

You

can get kits tailored for your particular model from specialist firms, and they’re quite reasonably priced. The inside of the car can now be cleaned with a brush and dustpan, or again preferably a vacuumcleaner. If the flex on the Hoover won't stretch to the car (and the car won't squeeze through the front door!) it might be worth thinking about investing in one of the small 12-volt hand vacuums which can be attached to your car battery — your accessory shop can probably show you one. Seat and trim materials can be wiped over with warm water containing a little washing-up liquid, but for best results (particularly if they're very dirty) use one of the proprietary upholstery cleaners such as Decosol, which are specially made for the job. An old nail brush will help to remove ingrained marks, but don’t splash too much water about and do wipe the surfaces dry afterwards with a clean cloth, leaving the windows open to speed up drying. The carpets can be put back when they’re quite dry, making sure they're properly fitted around the controls.

You have to be careful about cleaning car windows, especially the windscreen, with some household products as these can leave a smeary film. Water containing a few drops of ammonia is probably best, but any stubborn marks and smears can be removed with methylated spirit; finish off with a chamois leather squeezed as dry as possible. Just in case you should think that's it, there’s still the boot to be dealt with. Take out that collection of junk that seems to have grown every time you open

the lid, and get busy with brush or vacuum-cleaner again. While you're at it, if you must carry all that stuff around, now's the time to try and stow rattle any more! Now you can pause for a moment earned cup of tea perhaps — and take a the interior. Are there any nicks or tears

it so it doesn't

— make a well critical look at in the seats or other trim? Is the headlining drooping or peeling? Some excellent products can now be obtained for repairs such as these. One of the most useful is probably the vinyl repair kit, which comes in various colours:‘and consists of a quantity of ‘liquid vinyl’ and some sheets of texturing material. The liquid is applied to a split or hole in a plastic seat or piece of trim, smoothed like body filler, and allowed to set. It’s then blended into the surrounding area by selecting the best matching pattern from the graining material supplied, placing this over the repair and rubbing with a hot iron; the pattern is then embossed in the repaired area. This type of repair’s equally successful, incidentally, on vinyl roofs if your car happens to have one. For larger splits or tears it may be necessary to

cut a piece of matching

material from

somewhere

that doesn’t show, apply some suitable adhesive to it

and work

it under the edges of the tear, pressing 77

BODY BEAUTIFUL these together as neatly as possible once the glue has become tacky enough. Any loose headlining or trim can also be stuck in place — but make sure you get an adhesive that’s suitable for PVC or vinyl. Once you've got the seats in a reasonable state of cleanliness and repair, why not consider seat covers? Like the carpets, they're available from specialist firms to suit your car and are a worthwhile buy in view of the protection they give. If you use your car regularly and you've got the time and inclination, it should really be washed every week, either by hand (preferably using a hosepipe) or by taking advantage of the local car-wash if there is one. Whichever method you choose (assuming you wash your car at all!) we don’t think we need tell you how to do it — but remember it’s never a good idea to just wipe over a very dirty car, whether wet or dry;

you might as well sandpaper it! Two or three times a year (even once is better than not at all) a good silicone or wax polish can be used on the paintwork. We don’t know which of the many makes you'll use, so we can only recommend

knife, but don't borrow one from the kitchen as you'll have ajob cleaning it!

you to follow the maker's instructions closely so that you do see a reward for your efforts. Chrome parts are best cleaned with a special chrome cleaner; ordinary metal polish will attack the finish. If the paint’s beginning to lose its gloss or colour,

The paste can be thinned down if necessary using cellulose thinners. Before it hardens, it’s a good idea to wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag round the end of your finger, dip it in thinners and quickly sweep it across the filled scratch. This ensures that the area is very slightly hollowed and allows the paint to be built

and ordinarv polishing doesn't seem to help, it will be

up to the correct level as described earlier.

worth considering the use of a polish with a mild ‘cutting’ action to remove what is, in effect, a surface

Dealing with dents

layer of dead paint. Your friendly neighbourhood accessory shop man will advise on a suitable type. The remainder of this Chapter describes how to keep your car’s bodywork and paintwork in good condition by dealing with scratches and more major damage too, as they occur. A number of repair aids and materials are referred to, most of them essential if you're to achieve good results. They should all be available, together with free advice, from good motor accessory shops.

Keeping paintwork up to scratch With

superficial

scratches

(the sort

When your car's bodywork gets a deep depression, you'll probably have one too. But there’s no reason why even fairly large dents can’t be tackled successfully by the D-I-Y owner, especially using the excellent body repair materials now available. So cheer up, and let's see what can be done. The first step is to try to pull the dented metal

out to bring it more or less back to the original level. Don't expect to make a perfect job of this — you won't; the metal has stretched and ‘work-hardened’ which makes it a virtually impossible job. Try to bring

the level up to about } inch below the surrounding only

other

people seem to get) where they don’t penetrate down to the metal, you'll be glad to hear that repair can be very simple. Lightly rub the area with a paintwork renovator or a fine cutting paste to remove any loose paint from the scratch and to clean off any polish. Rinse the area with plenty of clean water and allow to dry. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine brush, and continue to build up the paint by several applications, allowing each to dry, until it’s level with the surrounding area. Allow the new paint at least

two weeks to harden (knitting or a crossword puzzle will help to pass the time), then use the paintwork

78

original. Now a good polish can be used. For anyone who's as lazy as we are, the easy alternative to painting over a scratch is to use a ‘paint transfer’, available in packs to match popular car colours. Prepare the affected area in the same way as for touch-up paint, then simply pick a transfer of a suitable size to cover the scratch completely. Hold the transfer against the area and burnish its backing paper, and if you're doing it right you should find it sticks to the car paintwork (rather than your hand), and at the same time frees itself from the backing. The patched area can now be polished to blend it in. When you've got a scratch that’s penetrated right through to the metal, causing rusting, you need a different technique. Use your Scout knife to remove any loose rust from the bottom of the scratch, then paint on a rust inhibitor to prevent it from spreading. You'll probably now need to apply cellulose body stopper paste — use a rubber or nylon applicator or a

renovator or cutting paste again to blend it into the

area; obviously, with shallow dents you can by-pass this bit.

If the underside of the dent can be got at, try hammering it out gently from behind using a hammer with a wooden or plastic head. You'll need to hold a fairly heavy hardwood block on the outside of the dent; this absorbs the impact of the hammer blows and helps to stop the metal being dented in the opposite direction! If you've got a dent in a completely enclosed body section, or there’s something else preventing

you from getting behind it, a different approach is needed. Try to screw up enough courage to drill several small holes through the metal in the dent,

BODY BEAUTIFUL particularly in the deeper parts. Now screw in several

Polyurethane

foam

is best used in hollow body

self-tapping screws so that they get a good bite, and

sections but, if you're using this, follow the maker's

either

instructions carefully. When this foam hardens it can

pull on

the

heads

with

pliers or wrap

some

heavy gauge steel wire round them and pull this. Brace yourself in case something gives suddenly or you may dent your own bodywork! Now to remove the paint from the damaged area.

This is best done using a power drill and abrasive disc, but if you've got the time and energy you can use

elbow-grease and abrasive paper. Don't forget to remove the paint from an inch or so of the

be cut back to just below the level of the surrounding bodywork with a hacksaw blade. With the hole now blocked off, the affected area can be filled and sprayed as follows.

Filling and spraying

Many types of body filler are available, but generally speaking those proprietary kits which

good paintwork, too, so that everything

contain filler paste (or filler powder and resin liquid)

blends in nicely. Now score the metal surface with a

and a separate hardener are best. You'll also need a

screwdriver or the tang of a file to provide a good key

flexible plastic or nylon applicator (usually supplied)

for the filler which you're going to have to apply, in case you didn’t know. Now, to finish off the repair,

for putting the mixture on with. Mix up a little of the filler on a piece of board or

surrounding

refer to the filling and spraying section at the end of

plastic (those plastic margarine tubs are ideal but do

this Chapter.

wash

out all traces of the contents first!). Read the

instructions carefully and don’t make up too much at

Rust holes and gashes If there’s any paint left on the affected area, remove it as described above so that you can get a good idea of just how bad the problem is. If there’s more rust or fresh air than good metal, now's the time

one go. You'll find you have to work fairly fast or the mixture will begin to set, especially if you've been a bit generous with the hardener. Apply the paste to the prepared hole or dent more or less to the correct level and contour, but don’t try

to consider

to shape it once

whether

a replacement

panel

would

be

more appropriate; this is a body shop job beyond the scope of this book. If things don’t seem that bad and you're prepared to have a go at doing the job yourself, remove all the fittings from the surrounding area except those which may help to give a good guide to what the shape should be (e.g. headlamp shells). Now, get a hacksaw blade or a pair of snips and cut out all the loose and

it’s become tacky or it'll pick up on

the applicator. Layers should be built up at intervals until the final level’s just proud of the surrounding bodywork. When the filler has fully hardened, use a Surform plane or coarse file to remove the excess and obtain the final shape. Then follow with progressively finer grades of wet-or-dry abrasive paper starting with coarse, followed by medium, then fine (some

badly affected metal. Hammer the edges inwards so

manufacturers

that you've got a recessed area to build up on. Wire brush the edges to remove any powdery

paper — 40 is the coarsest, 400 the finest). Always wrap the paper round a flat block if you're trying to

rust, then paint over with a rust inhibitor; if you can get to the back, do the same to that. You're now

get a flat surface, and keep it wet by rinsing in clean water or the filler and paint will clog up the abrasive

going

surface.

to

fill

the

hole

with

something,

but

unfortunately just anything won't do. The best bets are zinc gauze, aluminium tape or polyurethane foam. The gauze is probably the favourite for a large hole. Cut a piece slightly larger than the hole to be filled, then position it in the hole so that its edges are

give ‘grit’ grades to their wet-or-dry

At this point, the doctored area should be surrounded by a ring of bare metal, encircled by a feathered edge of good paintwork. Rinse it with plenty of clean water to get rid of all the paint and filler dust, and allow it to dry completely.

If

If you're happy with the surface you've obtained,

necessary, hold it in place with a few blobs of filler

then you're ready to apply some paint. First spray

paste.

over the whole area with a light coat of grey primer. This will show up any surface imperfections which

below

For

the

level

small

or

of the

narrow

surrounding

holes

you

bodywork.

can

use

the

aluminium tape which is sold by the roll. Pull off a piece and trim to the approximate size and shape required. If there’s backing paper, peel it off (it sticks better that way) and place the tape over the hole; if necessary, pieces can be overlapped at the edges.

Burnish down the edges of the tape with a file handle

or similar to make metal.

sure it’s firmly adhering

to the

may need further treatment, and will also help you get the knack of spraying with an aerosol can before you

start on the colour coats. Rub down the surface again, and if necessary use a little body stopper, as described for minor scratches,

to fill any small imperfections. Repeat this spray-andlevel procedure

until you're satisfied with the finish;

then wash down again and allow to dry.

79

The procedure given with these photos is simplified; more comprehensive instructions will be found in the accompanying text. Typical rust damage is shown here, but the procedure for the repair of dents and gashes is similar.

First remove fittings from the immediate area and then remove /oose rust and paint. A wire brush or abrasive disc mounted in a power drill is best, although the job can be done by hand. You need

to be very thorough.

Ai”

i

Before attempting to fill larger holes, block them

The edges of a hole should be tapped inwards with a hammer to provide a hollow for the filler. Having done this, apply rust inhibitor to the affected area (including the underside where

off with suitable material. Metal tape can be used, but the picture shows a piece of aluminium gauze

being sized up for use on this hole.

possible) and allow this to dry thoroughly.

i LP

=

e

When mixing the body filler, follow the manufacturers’ instructions very carefully. Mix thoroughly, don’t mix too much at one go, and don't make it up until you're ready to start filling modern fillers begin to harden very quickly!

The tape or be secured filler paste. quantity for

gauze used for backing up a hole can in position with a few small blobs of It’s a good idea to mix a very small this purpose first.

After flexible

mixing

the

applicator,

filler,

apply

following

it quickly the contours

with

a

of the

body.

The filler should be built up in successive thin layers, the final one being just above the level of the surrounding bodywork.

_

=

A fairly coarse file or cutting too/ is best for removing excess filler and for achieving the initial contour. Care must be taken not to overdo the filing or you'll hollow out the surface and have to fill it again!

a

. wet and-dry paper, keeping both the work area

A sanding block will now be needed; this can be made of wood as shown or a purpose-made

and

rubber one can be purchased. Begin shaping the filler by using the block with progressively finer

the filled area is when surrounding painted areas,

grades of dry abrasive paper, followed by...

stage is achieved with the finest grade paper.

After arouioh washing and drying, any necessary masking can be done and a coat of primer applied. Again, build this up with successive thin layers. Once the primer is dry it should be smoothed with very fine wet-and-dry paper.

the paper

wet.

Rubbing

down

is complete

‘feathered’ as shown;

into the this final

The top coat of paint can now be applied, again in thin layers. Later a mild cutting paste can be used to blend it with the Surrounding paint. Finish off with a good quality polish.

BODY BEAUTIFUL The next stage is to apply the finishing coats, but first a word or two about the techniques involved. Paint spraying should be done in a warm, dry, windless, dust-free atmosphere — conditions not very readily available to most of us! You may be able to approach them artificially if you've got a large indoor workshop, but if you have to work outside you'll need to pick the day carefully. If you're working in your garage you'll probably need to ‘lay’ the dust on the floor by damping it with water. If the body repair’s confined to a small patch, mask off the surrounding area to protect it from paint spray. Bodywork fitting (chrome strips, door handles

and

the

like) will

need

to

be

either

masked

or

removed. If you're masking, use genuine masking tape and plenty of newspaper as necessary. Before starting to spray, shake the aerosol can thoroughly; then experiment on something (an old tin or similar will do — not the neighbours’ car!) until you feel you can apply the paint smoothly. At the previous stage this wasn’t too important, but now you're trying to get the best possible finish. First cover the repe:r area with a thick coat of primer — not as one coat, but built up of several thin ones. When this is dry, using the finest wet-or-dry paper, rub down the surface until it’s really smooth. Use plenty of water to keep the surface clean; when it’s dry, spray on another primer coat and repeat the procedure. Now for the top coat. Again the idea’s to build up the paint thickness by several thin coats. Have a test spray first as this is a different aerosol, then commence spraying in the centre of the repair area. Using a circular motion, work gradually outwards towards the edges until the whole of the repair and about two inches of the surrounding original paint is

82

15 covered. Remove all the masking material 10 to . spraying finished minutes after you've Now you can start putting away all the bits and pieces because it'll need about two weeks for the paint to harden

completely.

After this time, using a

paint renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the new paint into the original. Finally, apply a good wax or silicone polish, and hopefully you'll have a repair you're proud to own up to!

Adding ‘Pinstripes’ There

decor

are

available

various

kinds

of self-adhesive

for customising

your

body

car, although

range are quite in the Datsun models some adequately catered for when new. Perhaps the neatest and most suitable of the ‘add-on’ variety are ‘Pinstripes’, and we've mentioned these here as they may appeal to the owner who

wants a cheap and simple way to improve the appearance of his or her car. ‘Pinstripes’ are adhesive tapes which come in different widths and colours, and as single or multi-stripes. Most have a backing paper which is peeled off as the stripe’s applied. When applying any of these self-adhesive tapes, first make sure the paintwork’s clean by washing with warm water and a car shampoo or liquid detergent. Next clean up the surface with a very fine cutting paste or paintwork renovator, and wash down again. You can now apply the tape, but follow the directions carefully. Smooth it down with a clean rag and, if necessary, prick out any smalil air bubbles with a pin. Try not to stretch the stripes as you put them on because they'll shrink slightly anyway; and wrap the ends round the panels so that they don’t pull away at the edges.

The Personal Touch On the subject of accessories it’s been said that, if someone makes it, the motorist will buy it. The ‘aftermarket’ in extras and accessories has now grown to enormous proportions; you only need to browse through a car Magazine or motor accessory shop to see what we mean. The problem for any motorist is to sort out the useful and practical items from what, at the other end of the scale, is some undoubted rubbish. The subject of accessories is so broad that in a Handbook like this we can only ‘touch the tip of the iceberg’ so we've tried to cover just a few of the more popular accessories and to include some tips on fitting where appropriate. All fitting minor buying

good products will be supplied with general instructions which may or may not require modifications to suit your Sunny. If you're secondhand however, you may not get any

fitting instructions at all. The guidelines given here aren't intended to replace those given by the manufacturer, and if you’re in doubt about fitting a particular item, they're the people to refer to. NOTE: always disconnect the battery before commencing any work involving the electrical system. Fireworks are very pretty, but there’s a time and place for everything!

Auxiliary instruments It would be quite easy to fill a whole book just on the subject of auxiliary instruments and how to fit them but, as with other things, you'll probably get pretty good instructions when you buy them. Because there are so many instruments available we're only

going to consider ammeters, battery condition indicators, clocks, oil pressure gauges, tachometers, and vacuum gauges. First of all, even before you've decided what instruments you're going to fit, you've got to decide where to fit them. The dashboard of the Sunny doesn’t lend itself readily to fitting brackets and small extra panels, because the instruments will end up by being rather low down or will obstruct your view forward if fitted to the top of the dashboard. Some

instruments such as tachometers can be ‘pod’ types, which can be mounted to the top of the dashboard. The other answer may be a console mounting, which will not only allow you to fit instruments but may have a radio installation compartment and/or a storage pocket too. Some infromation on these is given later. Sooner or later you're going to have to start drilling some holes somewhere, but this shouldn't cause you any problems if it's approached in the right

way. First of all make sure that there’s nothing behind the panel before even considering drilling a hole, and that there’s enough room to fit the instrument, switch, or whatever, in the space chosen. Any hole which will have a cable or capillary tube running through it must have a plastic or rubber grommet to prevent the metal cutting through; these grommets can be obtained from D-I-Y accessory or car electrical shops. When it comes to drilling larger holes for instruments, start off by centre-punching the area, then use compasses or dividers to mark the hole

allowing a little for clearance (standard instruments are 2in/52mm diameter). It's best to mark another hole inside the first hole, and drill around this line so that the centre part can be pushed out; if you're using

a in drill the inner circle will need to be gin inside the first circle marked. Finish the job off by carefully filing

and deburring the hole.

83

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THE PERSONAL TOUCH

Ammeters Note: The Datsun

(14/0.012) 1200

and

120Y

models are

fitted with an alternator with a scale of 60-O-60 The ammeter must that it registers all the

and this requires an ammeter amps. be connected in such a way current supplied to, or drawn from, the battery except for the main starting circuit current. On the Sunny models, the best method of connecting up an ammeter is to disconnect the white wire from the battery ‘+’ terminal and extend this to one side of the ammeter using a length of 44/0.30 (previously designated 44/0.012) wire. Now join the other ammeter connection to the battery ‘+’ terminal using wire of the size already mentioned. If, after the ammeter’s connected, it’s found to be indicating in the reverse sense, simply change over the connections on the back of the instrument.

should be OK, but make

sure the earth

polarity’s correct.

Clock Note: Some Sunny models have either a clock or a tachometer fitted as standard. Clocks come in many forms; you can even get car clocks powered by dry cell batteries. Most car clocks which are wired to the car's power source contain

semi-conductors. If this means nothing else to you, it should mean that there’s a negligible load on the battery

and

that

the

polarity’s

critical

if you

don't

want to cause permanent damage. Connections are much the same as the battery condition indicator except that you don’t want the clock to stop when the ignition’s switched off. Therefore connect the feed wire to a fuse which is permanently live.

Battery condition indicator

Tachometer

The battery condition indicator’s simply a voltmeter, and as such must be connected to a good earth point on the body and to any suitable connection which is live when the ignition switch is ON. For convenience, this could be a wire attached to the ignition switch or fuse box. You don’t need heavy

The tachometer (rev counter) is the one instrument that’s available in larger sizes than the others (8Omm instead of 52mm, although the smaller sizes can be obtained). Most are positive or negative earth, but you must connect them up correctly. In case you should pick up a secondhand one,

cables for the battery condition indicator,

connections for the most common

14/0.30

Fiamm

Trio’ air horns

types are shown in

YAZAKI

VEGLIA BOR LETTI

SMITHS

e&

Connections for three popular tachometers Yazaki: Smiths:

Veglia Borletti:

Negative earth shown — reverse arrowed wires to change polarity Positive earth shown — the dotted connection must be removed tachometer is fitted. Reverse arrowed wires to change polarity Negative earth shown — reverse arrowed wires to change polarity

when

Optional tachometer and connections

1

4 R_ RL BBW

To To To To

ignition coil ‘A’ on combination instrument ‘B’ on combination instrument C’oncombination instrument

Red Red with blue stripe Black Black with white stripe

the

THE PERSONAL TOUCH the illustration. Note that with the Smiths type, the distributor-to-coil LT lead is removed, and the sleeve colours on the main white lead are important. Use a 14/0.30 (14/0.012) cable size.

need to drill a few holes which could lead to your buying some self-tapping screws as well. Before drilling, don't forget to look what's on the other side of the panel, or your console could prove rather expensive!

Oil pressure gauge This instrument is fitted to a number of models as standard. Oil pressure gauges may have a sender unit or a capillary tube and are connected in much the same way as a water temperature gauge. Oil pressure gauges using a capillary tube can be connected to the oil pressure lamp switch tapping using a tee-piece connector, or alternatively if the electrical type’s used, a transmitter unit will have to be fitted up to the pressure supply.

Auxiliary lamps

Vacuum gauge

dash

Also called a performance gauge or fuel consumption gauge, this is simply a suction (negative

are necessary.

pressure) gauge with a flexible connection that screws into a tapping on the inlet manifold. The idea

Spot and fog lamps

is to drive at all times with the highest possible vacuum reading, and once you get the knack of it, it can save you quite a bit in petrol.

Consoles 120Y models already have a type of console, but as accessories, consoles come in all shapes, sizes and prices. Before buying, have a good look round to see what's on the market — that includes looking through the motoring D-I-Y magazines. Some types extend back from the engine compartment wall or dashboard to behind the handbrake, the handbrake and gear levers coming up through the console base panel. You can get them with cut-outs for switches, radios and tape players, and for the standard 52mm diameter circular instruments. Many types also have an ashtray or storage pocket, some also have an arm-

rest: there’s even a type that fits to the roof! They come in a variety of finishes — black leatherette, fibreglass, or woodgrain, and in various colours. Without a great deal of difficulty you should be able to get something that suits both your taste and your pocket. Fitting’s usually straightforward, but you may

MAIN FEED FROM BATTERY VIA IN-LINE FUSE

When auxiliary lamps are fitted, not only must you fit them in a suitable place on the car, but that

place where

must these

also

meet

apply

legal

requirements;

attempted

to give some

guidelines. In addition to the actual lights themselves, we have to think of the switches (not normally difficult because many small switch panels are available, or you may already have a console which will take them, or you can simply drill a hole in a suitable spot on the panel), fusing, cable sizes, and whether

relays

It's illegal to mount these with their centres more than 3ft 6in (1067mm) from the ground. Any lamps that are mounted with their centres /ess than 2ft (610 mm) above the ground may only be used in fog or falling snow, and a single lamp may be used only /n conjunction with headlamps. The lamps must always be mounted and used in

pairs, two fog, two spot, or one of each if they're to be used independently of the headlights. Their inner edges must be not /ess than 13.8in (350mm) apart

and their outer edges must be within 152in (400mm) of the edge of the car. If they’re used as spotlamps, they must conform to the normal anti-dazzle requirements, by wiring them via the dipswitch or by pointing them slightly downwards. Choose the lamps carefully, and if possible match the lamp styles. There are many good types on sale, so if you're not sure what you want seek some advice. The actual mounting’s not too difficult; probably the best method on the Sunny is to suspend them beneath the bumper by fixing to the bumper brackets. To prevent overload of the switch or wiring, a relay should be used (the Lucas 6RA type, part no. 33213 is suitable). This is connected through the

switch from the existing headlamp

circuit to one of

LUCAS 6RA RELAY

SUPPLY TO AUXILIARY

certain

we've

LAMPS

Typical connections for auxiliary lamps using a relay

FUSED SUPPLY FROM DIPSWITCH OR AUXILIARY LAMP SWITCH

THE PERSONAL TOUCH the relay ‘coil’ terminals, the other going to a good earth point. The lamp wires then go to one of the relay ‘contact’ terminals with the other terminal going to the battery ‘+’ terminal via an in-line fuse. The fuse rating will depend on the lamp manufacturers’ recommendations, but will probably be about 20 amps for both lamps. A good place to mount the relay is fairly near the starter solenoid or battery, to reduce the cable runs to a minimum.

Reversing lamps Both the 1200 and 120Y models are fitted with reversing lights as standard. They are operated by a switch on the gearbox and come on automatically whenever reverse gear’s selected.

Rear fog lamps These can often be mounted in much the same way as reversing lamps, although bumper-mounting types are very popular. (In fact some types serve a

dual function in having a clear lens for reversing and a red snap-on lens for the fog light). Under draft regulations in existence at the time of going to press, it is intended to make rear fog lamps compulsory

on

cars

manufactured

on

or after

1st

October, 1979, and at the same time to lay down specific rules on their use and positioning. From the date quoted above, either one or two lamps may be fitted. If only one is used, it must be on the centre line or the offside of the car and at least 100mm from the brake light. Every rear fog lamp switch must have a warning light to show when the lamps are switched on, and

the switch

must

be wired

into the ‘running lights’

circuit so that the rear fog lamps cannot be used without these lights also being on. Any rear fog lamp used after 1st October 1979 must also have the appropriate ‘E-mark’ (signifying conformity with EEC

standards). If your car was

manufactured

prior to October

1979, therefore, you need not fit rear fog lamps at all — but if you do (and it obviously makes sense) they must comply with the regulations.

88

Exactly what is meant by ‘running lights’ isn't clear, but conditions requiring the use of rear fog lamps also obviously call for either headlights or front fog lights. While front fog lights can be used only in fog or falling snow, rear fog lamps are to be permitted in conditions of poor visibility when only headlights may be legal at the front; it’s suggested, therefore, that rear fog lamps are wired using a relay which is activated from the dipped headlights circuit (i.e. the supply to terminal ‘W1' in our relay diagram would come from a dipped headligt connection).

Anti-theft devices There are three main categories of car thieves — those people who want your car either as a complete item or for the major mechanical and body parts; those who are out for a joy-ride; and those who merely want the contents. With any type of thief it makes sense to,do what you can to deter someone from wanting to get in; don’t leave valuables lying about, don’t leave the car unlocked and, if it’s parked at home, put it in a locked garage if possible. But, if a car thief decides he does want your particular car, statisically he’s got a pretty good chance of getting it! All Datsuns have a steering column lock which is a very effective protection against a car being driven away, but it still makes sense to have a gocd burglar alarm fitted. Many types are available, and many of these are wired into door courtesy light switches or hidden switches beneath seats. Other types are wired into the horn circuit, but separate horns and bells are available; the more unconventional

it is (whilst still being reliable!), the

better. Don’t put hidden switches in the first place you think of — it might be the first place the thief thinks of too. Some anti-theft devices are activated by the movement caused through somebody trying to get into the car (and occasionally by an innocent passerby!). Some not only sound alarms, but also earth the ignition circuit; other devices simply mechanically lock together the steering wheel and brake pedal. Have a look round the accessory shops and see what suits your car, your pocket and the degree of protection required.

Visibility aids Mirrors Recent EEC legislation has done wonders for the

looks

of

exterior

mirrors.

In

addition

to

being

functional, they must have no projections to catch clothing or other cars, and must fold flat when struck.

The result is a new wave of products in all shapes and sizes, some of which can be sprayed to match up with the existing car finish. There has also been a marked swing recently from wing mirrors to the doormounting kind. Choose mirrors which you think will suit the car's styling and, having got them, select the mounting point carefully. You'll get a good idea of where the best place is by simply looking at other cars, but get someone to hold the mirror while you sit in the driving seat just to make sure you can see all you need to. Mark the position on the wing, or door, and if you're fitting two mirrors do likewise on the other to make sure they’re both in the same position. Check the hole size needed and, if you can, select a drill this

THE PERSONAL TOUCH

MAG

‘European’

door mirror

size, plus where applicable, a smaller one to make a pilot hole. If you haven't got the large drill required for

rear window as standard equipment.

most wing mirrors, you'll have to drill several small holes and file them out to the correct size. Don't forget to remove any burrs from the hole afterwards, then paint on a little primer to cover the

Rear window wipe/wash

bare metal edges. When

the primer’s dry you can fit

the mirror following the maker's instructions, angle it as necessary to get the best rear view.

then

Rear window demisters At one time, if your car wasn’t fitted with a heated rear window as standard equipment (and only the expensive models were) about the only remedy

This applies more to the Estate versions and can be very useful where it’s found that the back window regularly becomes obscured by road dirt from the car's slipstream in wet weather. Fitting may be found to be beyond the scope of the ordinary owner because the wiper motor has to

be fitted into the inside skin of the tailgate. The wiring and washer tubing, too, is slightly complicated by having to be passed through the whole length of the

body

from

the

switch/reservoir

was a stick-on clear panel designed to act a bit like double glazing. They didn’t usually work very well and

be supplied by the makers.

frequently came unstuck too. Now they've been more or less superseded by the element type stick-on demister. These act more like the genuine article, consisting of a metal foil element which is peeled off a backing sheet and stuck on to

Headlamp conve-;sions

the inside surface of the rear window glass. It has to be wired up to the electrical system, of

course,

via

a

suitable

fuse

and

switch,

using

sufficiently heavy cable and preferably incorporating a

warning lamp as it will take quite a large current and shouldn't be left on inadvertently. The great thing about these devices is that they do work and are very moderately priced. Most later Datsun models are fitted with a heated

before

being

led

through into the tailgate. Again, full instructions will

Most Sunny models are equipped with sealed beam headlamps, but some earlier models may have bulb type headlamps. To change to the later typ: _ first obtain two sealed beam units from your Datsun dealer and also the special wiring plugs that fit on the rear terminals of each unit. Remove the headlamp unit as described in /n an Emergency, detach the bulb holder from the wiring harness, and replace it with the special wiring plug. Make sure that both plugs are connected up the same way otherwise one headlamp will be at dip while the other is at high beam, and this could be dangerous as well as illegal!

89

THE PERSONAL TOUCH Refit the headlamp units using the reverse procedure and check them for correct operation. To be on the safe side, take the car to your Datsun garage and have the headlamps checked with a proper beamsetter.

When equipment. and car wash with vandals choosing a suitable spot for the aerial, remember the following points: , a) b)

Radios and tape players A radio or tape player is an expensive item to buy,

and

will

only

properly.

It’s

give

its best

useless

to

performance expect

if fitted

concert

hall

performance from a unit that’s suspended from the dash panel by string with its speaker resting on the back seat or parcel shelf! If you don’t wish to do the installation yourself there are many in-car entertainment specialists who can do the fitting for you. Make sure the unit purchased is of the same polarity as the car. Ensure that units with adjustable polarity

are

correctly

set

before

commencing

installation. It's difficult to give specific information with regard to fitting, as final positioning of the radio/tape player, speakers and aerial is entirely a matter of personal preference. However, the following paragraphs give guidelines to follow, which are relevant to all installations.

Radios Most radios are a standardised size of 7 inches wide by 2 inches deep — this ensures that they'll fit into the radio aperture provided in many cars. The following points should be borne in mind before deciding exactly where to fit the unit: a)

6b)

c)

d)

e)

90

The unit must be within easy reach of the driver wearing a seat belt. The unit mustn't be mounted close to an electric tachometer, the ignition switch and its wiring, or the flasher unit and associated wiring. The unit must be mounted within reach of the aerial lead, and in such a place that the aerial lead won't have to be routed near the components detailed in paragraph ‘b’. The unit shouldn't be positioned in a place where it might cause injury to the car occupants in an accident; for instance, under the dash panel above the driver's or passenger's legs. The unit must be fitted really securely.

The type of aerial used, and where you're going to fit it, is a matter of personal preference. In general, the talier the aerial, the better the reception but there are limits to what's practicable. If you can, fit a fully

retractable type — it saves an awful lot of problems

c)

d)

e)

The aerial lead should be as short as possible. The aerial should be mounted as far away from the distributor and HT leads as possible. The part of the aerial which protrudes beneath the mounting point must not foul the road wheels, or anything else. If possible the aerial should be positioned so that the lead does not have to be routed through the engine compartment. The aerial should be mounted at a more-orless vertical angle.

Radio interference suppression Books have been written on the subject, so we're not going to be able to tell you a lot in this small space. To reduce the possibility of your radio picking up unwanted interference, an in-line choke should be fitted in the feed wire and the set itself must be earthed really securely. The next step is to start connecting capacitors to reduce the amount of interference being generated by the different circuits of the car's electrics. The accompanying illustrations show the various generators and give capacitor values

for the

suppressors.

When

it comes

to the

ignition HT leads, these are resistors which can either be uppermost-type plug caps or in-line suppressors; if you're already using resistive HT leads (those with the

carbon fibre filling), they're already doing the job for you.

Tape players Fitting instructions for both cartridge and Cassette stereo tape players are the same and in general the same rules apply as when fitting a radio. Tape players aren't usually prone to electrical interference like radios although it can occur — so positioning isn't so critical. If possible the player should be mounted on an even keel. Also, it must be possible for a driver wearing a seat belt to reach the unit in order to change or turn over tapes.

Comfort Longer journeys can be much more pleasant if your car's comfortable to drive, and just a couple of suggestions on this theme may be welcome.

Sound reducing kits Very few cars have yet been produced in which the noise level, particularly at motorway speeds, is all that could be desired. For economy reasons, most

KEEP THIS LEAD AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE FUSE J

IN-LINE CHOKE (SEE TEXT) wa

An in-line choke should be fittedin the feed wire as close to the unit as possible

> LIVE

0.2 5uf-0.5uf

LIVE

————-O- O——O 5387 SWITCH" FUSE

TO IGNITION

WEETTTED)

SWITCH

TO DISTRIBUTOR

TO CONTACT

MOTOR

The correct way to suppress electric motors which are causing interference

BREAKER

BOLT DOWN =

SS

TO EARTH

a

Fi

L# 1.Ouf-3.0uf

— ¢4

HEAVY WIRE : ‘ The correct way to connect a capacitor to the coil

THIN WIRE

(above) and the generator (right)

TERMINAL

/gnition HT lead suppressors Left: Resistive suppressor-type plug caps.

DISTRIBUTOR INTERNAL

RESISTOR

SCREW IN . FOR HT LEAD

DISTRIBUTOR

INTERNAL RESISTOR

Right: Resistive in-line suppressors

TWIN SCREW -IN

THE PERSONAL TOUCH manufacturers put only a certain amount of underfelt and sound-deadening material into their cars, and a further improvement can usually be made by fitting one of the proprietary kits. These are usually tailored to fit individual models, and consist of sections of feltlike material which are glued in place under carpets, inside hollow sections, boot lid etc. in accordance with instructions. The material can also be bought in rolls for D-I-Y cutting, using the carpets etc. as templates.

Seats If your car seats are showing signs of old age (and just fitting new covers won't disguise the sagging when you sit in them) then you can of course have them rebuilt by an upholstery specialist. On the other hand, if the seats are in a really bad condition, you could think about replacing at least the driver's seat by one of the special bucket types available. To look at these you'll have to find an accessory shop

stocking goods.

the

more

motor

sport

orientated

kind

of

you must there are so many types around, but what a BSIbuy you that g ensurin be careful about is approved type. Most types have a pair of straps at the lower

pan edge which need to be attached to the rear seat straps of pair further a and at the back of the squab,

ent that fit under the back of the car seat for attachm with arch wheel or floor the (or to the rear parcel shelf estate cars). Take very careful note of the manufacturer's instructions; they require the anchorages to be a also require apart, and may distance certain reinforcing plates to be used. It may be possible to use threaded holes already built into the car. Before starting to drill holes for the mountings, make sure that the undersides or rear of the panel’s clear of obstructions, pipes or other components.

Miscellaneous Electronic ignition

Child safety seats and harnesses Much has been said in recent years about the use

of seat belts for front seat passengers, and more recently there’s been an increasing interest in the various

t to give available for young children. It’s very difficul because them, fitting for any precise instructions

special

rear

seats

and

harnesses

now

Such systems are many and varied and widely advertised. The makers claim easier starting, better performance and lower fuel consumption as the main advantages,

and

on

the

whole

these

claims

are

substantiated in practice. However, before buying one of the available kits we suggest you stop and reflect whether your mileage and type of driving makes the expenditure worthwhile. Get other advice, preferably from someone who's fitted such a system to his own car. Consider too whether you're capable of installing it yourself, otherwise you'll have to pay for fitting as well. There are several types of electronic ignition —

some

retain the conventional contact-breaker in the

car's

distributor

while

others

magnetic triggering device.

replace

this

by

a

Even where the contact

points are retained they're no longer likely to burn and therefore shouldn't need replacing so frequently - but

this doesn't in itself amount to much of a saving. Wide wheels With increasing petrol and insurance costs, and decreasing speed limits, many motorists have stopped trying to get the ultimate in performance from a given engine size and drifted towards other things. One of these things, which not only smartens

up the

92

KL’s Jeenay’ child safety seat

car but also can

improve

the roadholding

considerably, is a set of wide wheels. You can get steel wide wheels, which are less than half the price of a new radial tyre, but most people like the looks of the light alloy ones. Practically all the popular types are made from LM25 aluminium alloy; prices vary,but typically they'll cost you a little

THE PERSONAL TOUCH more than the tyre which goes with them. For anyone who really wants to spend some money (and there

tyre supplier. For the Sunny models, the widest wheel

can't really be any justification for it for normal road use) there are the magnesium alloy types; these will set you back about twice as much as the aluminium alloy ones.

around the wheel arches, is a 54J. These will take a

There was a time when all light alloy wheels had a bad reputation, but this seems to have improved considerably with the more modern casting techniques. They can still be porous, which could mean that you'll need a tube with the tyre if you're going to keep the air in, but they’re normally sealed during manufacture to help overcome this. The wheels need to be treated with a little more care than steel wheels. To prevent corrosion setting in it's important to keep them clean, particularly if there's salt on the roads, and to re-lacquer them from time to time. Don’t hit kerbs; a steel wheel may only suffer a dented rim but you can easily knock a piece out of a light alloy rim and that's the end of that. When you're having tyres fitted, extra care must be taken to prevent the rim being damaged, and it won't go amiss if you remind the tyre fitter at the time. Any balancing weights must be of the stuck-ontype, not the ordinary clip-round-the-rim type. The tyres themselves must be suitable for the rims, and because there are so many types around you'll have to take some advice from the wheel and

size that can be used, without resorting to tin-bashing 6.00 crossply tyre, a 165 radial, or one of the 70series low profile tyres in the range 165/70 to

195/70.

Steering wheels One of the most popular, easily fitted accessories is a special steering wheel. Many types are available, but often it’s also necessary to buy a boss which fits on to the steering column shaft, to which the steering wheel's attached. No problems should be encountered when fitting a steering wheel boss, once the old wheel's been removed. First of all ensure that the front wheels are pointing straight ahead, then carefully prise out the centre motif or, on certain models, remove the centre

pad by undoing the retaining screws at the back of the pad. Grasp the steering wheel with one hand, to prevent it turning and use a suitable sized socket to undo the centre nut. Don’t remove the nut, leave it screwed on a couple of threads and then strike the

steering wheel evenly from behind with the palms of your hands to release it. Hopefully the steering wheel will separate itself from the splines of the steering column (and if you left the nut on a few threads as we suggested the steering wheel won't have hit you in

MAG Universal dog/luggage guard

THE PERSONAL TOUCH the face as it came away!). Refitting of the replacement steering wheel must with the manufacturer's be in accordance now instruction which probably will be a direct reversal of the removal procedure for the old wheel.

seat occupants in an emergency stop.

Roof racks

Mudflaps

It’s not surprising that many an owner has to resort to a luggage rack from time to time, even if it’s only for family holidays. The types available are very varied, but they normally rely on clips attached to the water drain channel above the doors. If you're buying, select a size that suits your requirements, making

thanks of following drivers owing to the reduction in spray during wet weather. Fitting’s straightforward

sure that it’s not too wide for the roof! When fitting the roof rack, position it squarely on the roof, preferably towards the front rather than the rear. After it’s loaded, by the way, recheck the tension of the attachment bracket screws. Don’t keep the roof rack on when it’s not wanted; it offers too much wind resistance and creates a

surprising amount of noise (see Save /t/).

Dog/luggage guards Owners of the Estate versions of the Sunny who either own a dog or carry large loads in the rear of the vehicle will no doubt find one of these tubular barriers beneficial. They're normally adjustable telescopically,

94

both for height and width, and are fitted by clamping between roof and load deck immediately behind the rear seat to keep dog, luggage or whatever in its rightful place and possibly prevent injury to the front

You're rear wheel will not paintwork

probably already aware that both front and arches can be fitted with mudflaps. These only protect your car's underside and from flying stones, but will also earn the

and is usually by means of clamping brackets or selftapping screws.

Specialist fitments We've now covered a lot of the main items likely

to interest the average owner from the D-I-Y fitting angle. Such things as towbars and sunshine or vinyl roofs, while practical or desirable, are beyond the scope both of this book and of the ordinary car owner. We therefore recommend that for any major accessory of this kind you consult the appropriate specialist who'll be able to give you an initial estimate of the cost as well as carrying out the work properly and safely. .

Troubleshooting We've gone to great lengths in this Handbook to provide as much information on your car as we think you'll need for satisfactory running and servicing. Hopefully,

you

won't

need

to use

the

pages

that

follow but there’s always a possibility (rather than a probability!) that something will go wrong, and by reference to the Troubleshooter charts you should be able to pinpoint the trouble even if you can’t actually fix it yourself. The charts are broken down into the main systems of the car, and where there's a fairly straightforward remedy — the sort you can tackle

yourself — bold type is used to highlight it. Further information on that particular item will normally be found elsewhere in the book; look up the component or system in the Index to find the correct page. In some cases a reference number will be found

(e.g. T1/1);

by looking

up

this

number

accompanying Cross Reference Table, more information on that particular fault.

in the

you'll

find

TROUBLESHOCTERSS Starter doesn’t work when key is turned

Starter motor jammed in mesh

Brushes badly worn or sticking.

with flywheel gear (T1/3).

Connections loose or corroded (T1/2).

Automatic transmission

Internal fault in motor or solenoid.

selector or ‘P’.

Starter doesn’t work properly

Turns engine slowly

Just whirrs

not at ‘N’

Pinion sticking screwed sleeve.

Battery problem

Battery flat (T1/1). Battery defective. Battery terminals loose or corroded.

96

on

|

'

ENGINE — STARTING Starter turns engine normally but engine won't start

Works harshly.

noisily

or

Ignition problem |

Fuel problem

Spark plug lead(s)

Fuel pump faulty, or

loose, nected

filter blocked (T1/6)

disconor damp

(71/4). Spark plugs cracked or

dirty,

incorrectly

Pinion teeth worn.

gapped. Distributor or coil cap cracked or HT lead loose. Worn distributor cap electrodes. Coil or condenser

or flywheel broken or E

faulty (T1/5). Contact breaker points dirty or incorrectly set.

Ignition timing incorrect.

Starter main spring broken. Retaining bolts loose. Pinion

engaging ring gear.

not

fully

flywheel

Other causes.

| Leak in fuel pump or fuel lines. Carburettor float chamber fuel

level(s) incorrect. Carburettor incorrectly adjusted. Choke not operating correctly.

| Air cleaner blocked. Valve clearance incorrect. Inlet manifold or gasket or carburettor gasket leaking. Brake servo hose

leaking (if fitted) (T1/7). Engine seriously overheated (Troubleshooter 2)

TROUBLESHOOTER 2 : Lack power

Ignition fault.

Fuel system fault

Misfires

Other causes

Timing incorrect. Ignition fault

Incorrect valve clearances. Low cylinder compression

Air cleaner blocked.

Overheating Insufficient water in cooling

system/leakage from system

Running too cool.

(T2/1). Fan belt slipping. Radiator blocked or grille obstructed (T2/2).

Incorrect thermostat installed.

Water hose collapsed or

kinked (T2/3). Thermostat not

operating properly. Exhaust system obstructed or damaged. Blown cylinder head gasket. Engine not yet run-

in (T2/4).

98

Brakes binding. Oil level too low.

Thermostat missing or not working properly.

ENGINE — RUNNING Cuts out unexpectedly

3

Ignition fault

Water on ignition Fuel system fault

Fuel pump faulty or

loose, disconnected or damp (71/4). Spark plugs dirty, cracked or incorrectly gapped. Distributor or coil cap cracked or HT lead loose. Worn distributor cap electrodes. Coil or condenser faulty (T1/5). Contact breaker points dirty or incorrectly set.

filter blocked (71/6).

Ignition timing

(71/4)

Coil or condenser failed (T1/5). LT lead to coil or distributor disconnected. HT lead from coil loose or disconnected.

Spark plug lead(s)

incorrect.

components

Leak in fuel pump or fuel lines.

Carburettor float chamber fuel

level(s) incorrect. Carburettor incorrectly adjusted. Choke not operating correctly.

Fuel system fault.

Tank empty. Fuel pump faulty

(T1/6). Fuel line broken, leaking or blocked. Carburettor jet blocked.

3 : CLUTCH,

TROUBLESHOOTER

ne

Gearchang e problems

Judder/vibration

noe

When running

On letting in clutch

Difficulty in engag-

Jumping out of

ingo r changing

gear.

i

gear.

Gearchange selector mechanism worn or damaged. Steering or suspen] sion fault (Table 5)

Engine mountings loose or perished. Clutch friction surfaces badly worn or oily. Release mechanism

worn.

Propeller shaft universal joints worn or shaft out of balance.

Worn rear axle

gears and/or bearings. Low oil level in rear axle or

incorrect oil grade.

100

Synchromesh mechanism worn or damaged. Clutch pedal adjustment incorrect.

| |

TRANSMISSION

& REAR AXLE Irregular Noises

From clutch

On depressing

From gearbox.

From propeller shaft

From rear axle.

Whining or grinding noise while running

On releasing pedal.

pedal.

Release mechanism

Clutch driven plate

dry, worn or

distorted.

damaged. Pedal pivot requires lubrication.

enn

Incorrect grade of oil in use. Gear teeth or shaft bearings badly worn or damaged.

Crunching noises Whemicnanging

gear.

101

TROUBLESHOOTER 4: Pedal operation

Excessive pedal

‘Spongy’ feel

‘Springy’ feel or

travel

high pedal pressure needed.

Leaks in system.

Fluid level too low.

]

Rear brakes need

adjusting (discs at front). s All brakes needs

adjusting (drums

all round).

Air in system

New linings/pads

(requires bleeding).

not yet bedded in.

Wheel cylinder or caliper leaking.

Drums/discs badly scored or distorted.

Master cylinder leaking.

Master cylinder bolts loose.

Brake line or hose leaking.

TROUBLESHOOTER] Steering feels light and vague

Steering wheel has

Steering feels stiff and heavy

too much free play

Tyre pressures too low or uneven.

Suspension ball-

Tyre fault

Suspension geometry or wheel Pressures too high. —_alignment wrong.

Steering balljoints badly worn. Steering gear needs

Wrong type.

adjusting.

joints worn. Suspension geometry wrong. Steering gear overadjusted.

Steering column 102

:

badly distorted.

BRAKES Effect on car

Car pulls to one side

Brakes ‘grab’ or

wheel(s) lock.

Drums/linings or pads/discs contaminated with oil, grease or fluid. Brake backplate, caliper or disc loose. Shoes or pads incorrectly fitted. Differing types of linings fitted at each side. Suspension anchorages loose.

Brakes bind when pedal released.

| Contamination by oil, grease or fluid.

Rear brakes/handbrake overadjusted. Master cylinder

pushrod out of adjustment. Vent hole in

reservoir cap blocked. Master cylinder or wheel cylinder seized.

Drums/discs badly worn or distorted. Tyre pressures unequal. Wheel cylinder seized.

STEERING & SUSPENSION Wobble/vibration from front wheels

Loose wheel nuts. Damaged wheel.

Wheels/tyres need balancing. Steering/suspen-

Car settles too low or leans to one side

Weak springs. Broken rear spring leaf.

Car leans over excessively when cornering

Front or rear antiroll bars weak or mountings loose. Faulty shock absorbers.

sion balljoints worn. Shock absorbers weak.

103

TROUBLESHOOTER 6: Fuel gauge

1

Gives no reading

Horn

, Registers we Full’ fe all the time.

ime. Works all the time

Doesn't rt wor k

Horn push earthed or stuck down. Cable from horn to horn push earthed.

Cable betweeen tank unit and gauge earthed.

Cable between tank unit and gauge broken or disconnected.

Cable or connection loose, broken or disconnected.

Note:This chart assumes that the battery installed in your car is in good condition and is of the correct specification, and that the terminal connections are clean and tight. A car used frequently for stop-start motoring or for short

journeys, (particularly in winter when lights, heater blower etc. are likely to be in use) may need its battery recharged at intervals to keep it serviceable. If an electrical

problem

occurs,

don’t immediately

suspect the starter or any other

component without first checking that the battery is capable of supplying its demands and that the fuses are in good condition and making a good contact.

104

EEECERICS

Lights

Don't come on

OR

Come on but go out again

Work erratically or flicker on and off.

Give very poor light

Bulbs or lenses dirty or reflectors dirty or corrroded. Wrong bulbs installed.

Battery flat (T1/1). Bulb

or

filament

broken.

Light switch faulty.

Lamps not earthing properly

(T6/1).

Light switch faulty.

A fault occurring in any other electrical equipment or accessory not specifically referred to above can usually be traced to one of three main causes, i.e. blown fuse; loose or broken connection to power supply or earth; or internal fault in the component concerned.

105

CROSS-REFERENCE TABLE

TROUBLESHOOTER REFERENCE

T1/1

T1/2

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Either charge the battery from a battery charger, or use jump leads to start the car from another battery; make sure that the lead polarities are correct in both cases, or you may do permanent damage, particularly

LWT

if your car has an alternator.

T2/1

lf the

lead’s

loose, disconnect

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

TROUBLESHOOTER REFERENCE

For a temporary repair a leaking hose can normally be bound up with adhesive tape or,

better still, with a hose bandage available for this purpose.

the battery

earth lead then tighten the connection on the starter motor. Make sure that the bolt doesn’t turn while you're tightening the nut.

Wait till the cooling system’s then top it up. If it happens a get it looked at straight away ruin your engine. If it’s just a

you

can

probably

bind

cooled down, second time, or you could leaking hose

it up

as

in 11/7

(above) to get yourself home.

Reconnect the battery earth lead.

T2/2 T1/3

Try freeing the pinion by putting the car in gear and rocking it backwards and forwards. (Note that this is not possible on cars fitted

with automatic transmission). T1/4

Make sure all the connections are tight, then wipe the leads clean and dry with a lint-free cloth. Use an ignition system waterproofer

(e.g.

WD40

or

Damp-Start)

to

T2/3

Driving carefully will probably get you home. An airline on the radiator core will clean out the dirt that’s accumulated; if it’s blocked internally use a proprietary flushing compound.

You

may

temporarily

be

able

(see

to

71/7)

repair

but

the

it'll

hose

almost

certainly mean a new one.

prevent

problems in the future.

T1/5

make a note of the connections before removing them, and ensure that the replacement coil’s the correct type. Renewal of the condenser is covered in the 5000mile Service Schedule.

T1/6

T2/4

Drive more the engine.

T4/1

Provided there’s no loss of hydraulic fluid, you'll need a little extra pedal effort for braking but that’s all. It may be possible te temporarily repair the hose as in 11/7.

T6/1

Remove the lamp lenses (see /n an Emergency) and check for signs of rust. Where there’s rust, scrape it off and apply a little Vaseline. Ensure that the screws

An ignition coil’s a simple item to fit, but

To check the operation of the pump, detach

slowly — but without

labouring

the fuel outlet pipe (that’s the one that goes to the carburettor) and operate it by turning

the engine over on the starter a few times. There should be a steady stream of petrol if the pump’s working properly. Replacing the

fuel pump filter is covered mile Service Schedule.

106

in the

10 000-

securing the lamp body to the car are making good contact (where applicable).

Fy

918200 9ZE8'O L8EE00 GS9ELL€9v60 EG8L'E £900 918 L0c'L L0é'1 L8-EE

$9427 (7)

$243!7(7)

xx xX && & x & & & RK KKK KK KOK KX

(gUl9/I9) (gW2/99) (gWI/99)

092E8 b90S

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Index checking operation 50

faults 102/103 Accessory shops 33 Additives, oil and fuel 31 Adjustments — brakes 62 carburettor 66 fan belt 58 handbrake 73 valve clearances 57 Aerials, radio 90 Air cleaner— element renewal 52, 69

summer/winter setting 75 Air horns 85 Ammeters 85 Antifreeze 72

Anti-theft devices 88 Automatic transmission —

driving technique 16 fluid level check 66

specifications 38

Battery —

buying 30 condition indicator 85 electrolyte level 49 specific gravity check 68 Body — dimensions 39 weights 39 Bodywork —

adding ‘Pinstripes’ 82

08

check 66, 75 cleaning 77 dents repair 78 filling and spraying 79 paintwork maintenance 78 polishing 78 rust repairs 79 Bonnet release handle 16 Brakes — bleeding hydraulic system 71

fluid level check 51

front linings check 61 front disc pads check 60 hydraulic fluid renewal 72

rear linings check 62 rubber parts renewal 72 specifications 38

Carburettor — adjusting 66 faults 99 specifications 36 Carpets, cleaning 77 Child safety seats and harnesses 92 Choke control knob 16 Clock 85 Clutch —

faults 100/101 specifications 37 Comfort 90 Compression ratio 34 Consoles 87 Contact breaker points, adjusting 52 Controls 11

Conversion factors

108/109

Cooling system —

coolant level check 18, 49 draining 72 faults 98 flushing 72 hoses, examination 52 specifications 36 Cylinder compression gauge 45

D Distributor — lubrication 52 specifications 36

Dog/luggage guard 94 Driving habits 32

INDEX Dwell angle meter 45

faults 98/99 specifications 36 Fuel tank capacity 20 Fuses renewal 29

Economy devices 31 Electrical system — components check 50

faults 104, 105

Gearbox (manual) —

specifications 41

faults 100/101

Electronic ignition 92 Engine — Capacity 34 faults 96-99 lacks power 98 misfires 98 overheating 98 running too cool 98 specifications 34 tuning 31 Engine oil — changing 51 level check 49 topping up 18, 49 type 20 Exhaust systems, buying 30

oil change 72 specifications 38 Gear ratios 38 Gearshift lever 15

H Handbrake — lever and cable check 73 lever, description 15 pivots check 69 Headlamps — bulb renewal 25 conversions 89 sealed beam unit 25 History 7 Horn faults 104

F

Fan belt — temporary 21

tension 58 Fault finding —

brakes 102/103

Ignition — electronic 92 faults 97-99

rear axle 100/101

timing check circuit wiring specifications switch 14 warning light Insurance 32

steering 102/103

Instruments —

suspension 102/103 transmission 100/101

auxiliary 83 description of 11 Interior lamp bulb renewal 28

clutch 100/101 electrics 104/105 engine — running 98/99 engine — starting 96/97

Firing order 34 Fog lamps 87, 88 Front seat adjustment 16

55 diagram 57 36 11

J

Front side light/turn signal bulbs renewal 26 Front suspension check 58 Front wheel bearings check 62, 69 Fuel — buying 31 consumption 10

octane rating 20 Fuel filter renewal 68 Fuel gauge — description 14 faults 104 Fuel system —

Jacking up 22

Lights — auxiliary 87 bulb renewal 25-28 check 50 faults 104 maintenance 25 Lubricants, buying 31

109

INDEX Lubrication — distributor 52 steering balljoints 73 Lubrication chart 48 Lubrication system, specifications 34

M Maintenance — battery 49, 68 bodywork 78

brakes 50, 51, 60-62, 71, 72 carburettor 66 distributor 52 lights 25 Tgularrsy

schedules 49 seasonal 74 spark plugs 52 steering 58 tools 46 windscreen wipers 67

N Noises — from clutch 101 from gearbox 101 from propeller shaft 101 from rear axle 101 from starter 97 Number platelamp bulb renewal 27

O Oil filter renewal 52 Oil pressure gauge 14, 87 Oil pressure warning light 14 Overheating, engine 98

P Panel and warning light bulb renewal 28 Propeller shaft check 69 Puncture repair, ‘instant’ 21

R

Rear window demisters 89 Rear window wipe/wash 89 Repairs kit 21

Reversing lamps 88 Road Test Data 10 Road testing the car 66 Roof racks 32, 94

Seats 92 Self-service garages 19 Service schedules — weekly/250 miles 49 1000 miles/monthly 51

2500 miles/3 months 51 5000 miles/5 months 51 10 000 miles/10 months 15 000 miles/15 months 24 000 miles/24 months 30 000 miles/30 months spring 74 autumn 75 Safety precautions 47

Side marker bulb renewal 27 Sound reducing kits 90 Spare parts — buying 32 kit 21 Spark plugs— cleaning and resetting 52 renewal 68 Specialist fitments 94 Spot lamps 87

Starter motor faults 96/97 Starting problems 96/97 Steering — check 58 faults 102, 103

linkage balljoints greasing 73 specifications 37 wheels 93

Stroboscopic timing light 45 Suspension —

faults 102/103 specifications 37 Switches 11, 14, 15

Radios —

buying and fitting 90 interference suppression 90 Rear axle — faults 101 oil change 72 Rear fog lamps 88

110 Rear light cluster, bulb renewal 26

68 69 72 73

Tachometer 14, 85 Tape players —

buying and fitting 90 Tools — care of 46 suggested 44

| |

|

INDEX Towing and being towed 25 Towing cars with automatic transmission 17

Transmission faults

100/101

Valve clearances, checking 57 Vehicle identification numbers 33 Visibility aids 88

Tyres —

buying 30 tread depth check 50 Tyre pressures —

Ww

checking 19, 50 specifications 20

U Universal joints, checking 69 Upholstery cleaning and repair 77

Vv

Water temperature gauge 14 Wheel changing 22 Wheel nuts, checking tightness 50 Wheels — specifications 37 wide 92 Windscreen, temporary 22 Windscreen washer reservoir, topping-up 49 Windscreen wipers, blade renewal 67

Windscreen wiper/washer switch 14 Vacuum gauge 31, 87

111

Printed

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Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Yeovil Somerset England

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Owner's Handbook/Servicing Guide Covers the foliowing UK specification models: Datsun 1200 Sunny (1171 cc), 1970 - 73

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Datsun 120Y Sunny (1171 cc), 1973 - 78 (Does not cover New Sunny models introduced August 1978)

This new Handbook for the very popular who wants to get the best out of his or her running. It’s a time and cost saver, and a problem We tell you how to reduce garage bills, and routine maintenance and servicing. Body repairs detail.

and successful Sunny series is written for the ( car in terms of both motoring pleasure and econ : solver. keep your car safe and roadworthy, by doing your and interior and exterior ‘renovation are covered in .

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