Haynes Chrysler Full-Size Models 1988 thru 1993 Automotive Repair Manual 1563920581, 9781563920585

Citation preview

CHRYSLER FULL-SIZE 1&88 thru 1993

otfl

Models

n Front-Wbeel

drive

New Yorker (V6), Imperial, Fifth Avenue (1^90 thru 1993), LeBaron Landau & Sedan (1990 thru 1993) D D6^ge Dynasty

Chrysler

Automotive Repajlr Manual

Chrysler Full-size Front wheel drive

Automotive Repair

Manual by Larry Warren

and John H Haynes Member

of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: All full-size

front-wheel drive

Chrysler LeBaron Landau and Sedan, New Yorker (V6 engine) Fifth Avenue (1990 through 1993) and Imperial

Dodge Dynasty: and 3.8

liter

2.5

liter

4-cylinder engine and 3.0, 3.3

V6 engines

1988 through 1993 (3X2

-

2058)

A /un-CMcnvii I^VI?T5

s»

/»fiSClAL VACUUM OPERATED ACCESSORIES

FILTER

M PRESSURE RELIEF/ ROLLOVER VALVE

-^ -{^ -f^

FUEL TANK

AAANIFOLD

VACUUM

PORTED VACUUM

P

ORIFICE

CHECK VALVE CHECK VALVE WITH ORIFICE

4 PORT

VAPOR 'CANISTER

TO HEATER-A/C

POWER^C-Jk BRAKE I VJ

^-CONTROL WITHABS

I

^

AAAP

% BOOSTER CI

SENSOR

V

1

\l-

TO HEATERA/C CONTROL

wrmouTABS

MV

MV

MV

EGR SOLENOID (!)

VALVE COVER

P

.

I

M

!

TRANSDUCER

|

THROTTLE FUEL PRESSURE

REGULATOR

BODY

6

INTAKE MANIFOLD

BACKPRESSURE EGR VALVE

VAC IF

PURGE SOLENOID

f

IS"

VAC

FILTER

e-

TO

RES

AIR CL£A^^1ER

VALVE COVER

SPEED

CONTROL PRESSURE REUEF/ROLLOVER VALVE

[•]

NO BRAKE BOOSTER WITH ABS

A/C = AIR CONDITIONING ABS = AUTOMATIC BRAKE SYSTEM FUEL

TANK

-

OPTIONAL VACUUM OPERATED ACCESSORIES P PORTED VACUM AAANIFOLD VACUUM

M CANISTER

1.3f

Vacuum hose

-l^a-

ORIFICE

-{^^

CHECK VALVE

V/ITH ORIFICE

routing on a 3.3L and 3.8L models (Federal and California)

EQUIPPED

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems DOWN

•AUTO SHUT

A/C CLUTCH CUTOUT RELAY

(ASD)

RELAY

1.6 Typical Vehicle

6-5

Emissions Control Information (VECI) label

2.6a Relay location on an early 2.5L engine

Brake switch (VG engines) Camshaft reference sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines) Charge temperature sensor (some V6 engines) Coolant temperature sensor (all engines) Crankshaft reference sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines) Knock sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines) Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (all engines) Neutral safety switch

(all

engines)

Oxygen sensor (all engines) Speed control switch (all engines) Throttle body temperature sensor (2.5L engines) Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (all engines) Transmission neutral-safety switch (3.0L engine) Vehicle distance sensor (2.5L engine)

2.6b Relay locations for the later models are printed under the Be sure to follow the top row of the relay panel with

Vehicle

speed sensor (V6 engines)

relay cover.

Air conditioning cut-out relay (2.5L

the top row designations on the relay cover

Refer to

tunes such variables as ignition timing, spark advance, ignition coil dwell, fuel injector pulse width and idle speed to minimize exhaust emissions and enhance dhveability. It also controls the operation of the radiator cooling fan, the alternator charging rate and such emissionsrelated components as the EGR solenoids and the purge solenoid for the EVAP canister. The SMEC/SBEC even updates and revises its own programming in response to chang"tng operating conditions. 4 The SMEC/SBEC also constantly monitors many of its own input and output circuits. If a fault is found in the EFI system, the information in the SMEC/SBEC memory. You really can't check or test components of the EFI system without an expensive factory tool, the Diagnostic Readout Box DRB (number C-4805) or its equivalent, but you can often determine where a problem is coming from, or at is

stored

the

The

6 in

illustrations air

2.6a

conditioning cut-out relay (see illustrations)

series electrically with the air conditioner

the

air

and 3.0L engines)

and 2.6b

damped

is

connected

pressure switch,

conditioner switch and (on 2.5L engines) the radiator/condenser

fan relay.

The cut-out

the engine

is

relay

operating.

is

energized

When

the

(in its

closed position) when a low idle

SMEC/SBEC senses

speed, or the throttle position sensor indicates a wide open throttle condition, the cut-out relay is de-energized, its contacts open and the air conditioner clutch is prevented from engaging. The cut-out relay is located on the left inner fender panel, next to the battery and right

above the SMEC/SBEC.

Auto shutdown relay

(all

engines)

II

which

process always begins with reading any stored fault codes to identify the general location of a problem, followed by a thorough visual inspection of the system components to ensure that everything is properly connected and/or plugged in. The most common cause of a problem in any EFI system is a loose or corroded electrical connector or a loose vacuum line. To learn how to output this information and display it on the "Check Engine" light on the least

circuit it's in. This

dash, refer to Section

4.

there's no ignition (disthbutor) signal (2.5L

If

cam

or crank reference sensor signal (3.3173.81 engines), present

when

5

Various

SMEC/SBEC;

components

provide

basic

information

they include:

Air conditioning cut-out relay (2.5L

Auto shutdown relay

(all

engines)

and 3.0L engines)

to

the

RUN

position, the auto shutdown pump, the fuel injectors, the ignition coil and the heated oxygen sensor. The cut-out relay is located on the left inner fender panel, next to the battery and right above the SMEC/SBEC (see illustrations 2.6a and 2.6b).

the ignition key

relay interrupts

is

power

turned to the

to the electric fuel

Camshaft reference sensor Refer to

Information sensors

and 3.0L engines), or

7

illustration

(3.3L

and 3.8L engines)

2.8

8 The camshaft reference sensor (see illustration) is mounted on top of the engine timing chain cover. The sensor reads camshaft position by sensing slots on the cam sprocket. The sensor then sends a

coded

signal to the

whether the

SBEC, which uses

fuel injectors

and

determine synchronized

this information to

ignition coils are correctly

6

1

Chapter 6

6-6

Emissions and engine control systems WIRING TERMINALS

2.8

The camshaft reference sensor (arrow) is located in the top of the timing chain cover on 3.3L/3.8L engines

CHARGE SENSOR 2.9 Typical

COOLANT SENSOR

charge temperature sensor and coolant temperature sensor

PAPER SPACER'

3-WAY ELECTRICAL

ELECTRICAL

CONNECTOR 2.11

CONNEaiON

The crankshaft reference sensor used on 3.3L/3.8L engines

Charge temperature sensor (1988 3.0L and 1991 and earlier 3.3L/3.8L engines) Refer to

illustration 2.9

The charge temperature sensor (see illustration), which is mounted in the underside of the intake manifold, measures the temperature of the incoming air and sends this information to the SMEC/SBEC. This data is used by the SMEC/SBEC to modify the

9

THREADS

air/fuel mixture.

Coolant temperature sensor

(all

engines)

2.12

10 The coolant temperature sensor (see illustration 2.9), which is threaded into the thermostat housing, monitors coolant temperature and sends this information to the SMEC/SBEC. This data, along with the information from the charge temperature sensor, is used by the SMEC/SBEC to determine the correct air/fuel mixture and idle speed while the engine is warming up. The sensor is also used to turn on the

Crankshaft reference sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines) 1

illustration

3.8L engines

and later 2.5L and 3.0L engines) 12 On 1991 and later 2.5L and 3.0L engines, engine speed input supplied to the SMEC/SBEC by the distributor Hall effect pick-up (2.5L Distributor pick-up (1991

is

radiator fan.

Refer to

The detonation (knock) sensor used on 3.3L and

2.11

The crankshaft reference sensor (see

illustration)

is

mounted on

the transaxle bellhousing. This sensor sends information to the

SBEC

regarding engine crankshaft position. The sensor "reads" slots (sets of four per cylinder) on the torque converter driveplate.

engines) or the optical system pick-up (3.0L engines). The distributoi uses an internal shutter and Hall effect sensor (2.5L engines) or an in-

and optical sensor (3.0L engines) to create a pulsing sent to the SMEC/SBEC. These electronic pulses are converted to engine rpm information.

ternal metal disc

signal that

is

Detonation (knock) sensor (3.3L/3.8 engines)

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (all engines)

Refer to

Refer to

illustration 2.

12

The detonation (knock) sensor (see illustration) generates a signal when spark knock occurs in the combustion chambers. It is mounted on the intake manifold where detonation in each cylinder can be detected. The sensor provides information used by the SMEC/SBEC to modify spark advance and eliminate detonation. 12

1

4

illustrations 2. 14a, 2. 14b, 2.

The

14c and

MAP sensor (see illustrations)

is

2.

14d

located on the firewall or on

It monitors intake manifold vacthe throttle body. The MAP sensor transmits this data, along with data on barometric pressure, in the forrr of a variable voltage output to the SMEC/SBEC. When combined with

the side of the engine compartment.

uum through

a

vacuum

line to

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems

6-7

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR^

2.14b Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on a later 3.0L engine

2.14a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on fourcylinder engines

MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE (MAP) SENSOR

MAP SENSOR

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR 4-WAY ELEORICAL

CONNEQOR

"eGR DIAGNOSTIC

CANISTER PURGE

SOLENOID

SOLENOID

(CALIFORNIA ONLY); 2.14d Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor used on 3.3Ly3.8L engines

MAP sensor on an early 3.0L engine

2.14c

Oxygen sensor SENSOR OUTPUT

Refer to

(BLACK WIRE)

(all

illustration 2.

engines)

16

16 The oxygen sensor (see illustration), which is mounted in the exhaust manifold (the rear manifold on V6 engines), produces a voltage signal when exposed to the oxygen present in the exhaust gases. The sensor is electrically heated internally for faster switching when the enis running. When there's a lot of oxygen present (lean mixture), the sensor produces a low voltage signal; when there's little oxygen present (rich mixture), it produces a signal of higher voltage. By monitoring the oxygen content and converting it to electrical voltage, the sensor acts as a lean-rich switch. The voltage signal to the SMEC/SBEC alters the pulse width of the injector(s).

gine

POWER AND

GROUND

4-WAY ELECTRICAL

CONNEaOR

2.16 Typical heated oxygen sensor used on

all

engines

Throttle

data from other sensors, this information helps the mine the correct air-fuel mixture ratio.

Miscellaneous switches 15 the light

(all

SMEC/SBEC

deter-

SMEC/SBEC, which adjusts enaccordance with what switch states are present at

switch) provide information to the in

these inputs. The state of these switch inputs (high/low) determine without the DRB diagnostic meter. II

body temperature sensor

throttle

(2.5L engine)

body temperature sensor, which

throttle

engines)

Various switches (such as the transmission neutral safety switch, air conditioning switch, the speed control switch and the brake

gine operation

The

is mounted in the body, monitors the temperature of the throttle body (fuel temperature). When transmitted to the SMEC/SBEC, this data helps determine the correct air/fuel mixture during a hot restart condition.

17

is difficult

to

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Refer to

illustration 2.

(all

engines)

18

18 The TPS (see illustration), which is located on the throttle body, monitors the angle of the throttle plate. The voltage produced increases or decreases in accordance with the opening angle of the throttle plate. This data,

when

relayed to the

SMEC/SBEC,

along with

Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 6

6-8

FUEL SUPPLY QUICK CONNECT FITTING

To display the codes on the dashboard (POWER LOSS or CHECK light), turn the ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF and finally ON. The codes will begin to flash. The light will blink the number of the first digit then pause and blink the number of the second digit. For example: Code 23, throttle body temperature sensor circuit, would be indicated by two flashes, then a pause followed by three flashes. Certain criteria must be met for a fault code to be entered into the 4 engine controller memory. The criteria may be a specific range of en3

ENGINE

gine rpm, engine temperature or input voltage to the engine controller. It is possible that a fault code for a particular monitored circuit may not

FASTENERS 2.18 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on the throttle body of a fourcylinder engine

data from several other sensors, enables the computer to adjust the air/fuel ratio in accordance with the operating conditions, such as acceleration, deceleration, idle and wide open throttle.

Vehicle distance (speed) sensor 19

The vehicle distance (speed) sensor, which

transaxle extension housing, senses vehicle motion.

is It

located in the generates eight

be entered into the memory despite a malfunction. This may happen because one of the fault code criteria has not been met. For example; The engine must be operating between 750 and 2000 rpm in order to monitor the Map sensor circuit correctly. If the engine speed is raised above 2400 rpm, the MAP sensor output circuit shorts to ground and will not allow a fault code to be entered into the memory. Then again, the exact opposite could occur: A code is entered into the memory that suggests a malfunction within another component that is not monitored by the computer. For example; A fuel pressure problem cannot register a fault directly but instead, it will cause a rich/lean fuel mixture problem. Consequently, this will cause an oxygen sensor malfunction resulting in a stored code in the computer for the oxygen sensor. Be aware of the interrelationship of the sensors and circuits and the overall relationship of the emissions control and fuel injection systems. The accompanying table is a list of the typical trouble codes 5 which may be encountered while diagnosing the system. Also included are simplified troubleshooting procedures. If the problem persists after these checks have been made, more detailed service procedures will have to be performed by a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

pulses for every revolution of the driveaxle and transmits them as voltto the SMEC/SBEC. These signals are compared by the

age signals

SMEC/SBEC with a closed throttle signal from the throttle position sensor so it can distinguish between a closed throttle deceleration and a normal idle (vehicle stopped) condition. Under deceleration conditions, the SMEC/SBEC controls the AIS motor to maintain the desired MAP value; under idle conditions, the SMEC/SBEC adjusts the AIS motor to maintain the desired engine speed.

3

Self diagnosis

system

-

description and code access

4

Information sensors

-

check and replacement

Camshaft reference sensor (3.3L and 3.8L engines)

-

replacement

Note: This sensor requires a special factory tool (DRB-II) to diagnose voltage and resistance values under specific working conditions. If further diagnostic tests are required, have the sensor and the circuit diagnosed by a dealer service department or a qualified automotive repair shop.

Before outputting the trouble codes, thoroughly inspect ALL electrical connectors and hoses. Make sure all electrical connections are tight, clean and free of corrosion; make sure all hoses are properly connected, fit tightly and are in good condition (no cracks or tears). Note 2: On the models covered by this manual, the CHECK ENGINE light, located in the instrument panel, flashes on for three seconds as a bulb test when the engine Is started. The light comes on and stays on when there's a problem in the EFI 1 The self diagnosis information contained in the SBEC or SMEC (computer) can be accessed either by the ignition key or by using a

Note

1

:

special tool called the Diagnostic Readout Box (DRB II). This tool is attached to the diagnostic connector in the engine compartment and reads the codes and parameters on the digital display screen. The tool is expensive and most home mechanics prefer to use the alternate method. The drawback with the ignition key method is that it does not access all the available codes for display. Most problems can be solved or diagnosed quite easily and if the information cannot be obtained readily, have the vehicle's self diagnosis system analyzed by a dealer service department or other properly-equipped repair shop. 2 To obtain the codes using the ignition key method, first set the parking brake and put the shift lever in Park. Raise the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm and slowly let the speed down to idle. Also cycle the air conditioning system (on briefly, then off). Next, with your foot on the brake, select each position on the transmission (Reverse, Drive, Low etc.) and bring the shifter back to Park. This will allow the computer to obtain any fault codes that might be linked to any of the sensors controlled by the transmission, engine speed or air conditioning system.

1

Unplug the cam reference sensor lead

(see illustration 2

Loosen the cam reference sensor

3

Remove

difficult to pull

at the electrical

connector

2.8).

retaining bolt.

the sensor from the cylinder head. The sensor might be out of the cover, but

it

will

come

if

you

persist.

Caution:

Don't pull on the sensor wire or you will damage it. 4 If you're reinstalling the same sensor, remove the old spacer, clean off the sensor face and install a new spacer on the face. Inspect the 0-ring too. Replace it if it's damaged. 5 If you are installing a new sensor, make sure a new paper spacer is already installed on the face and the 0-ring is properly positioned in its

groove.

Apply a couple of drops of oil to the 0-ring prior to installation. install the sensor, push it down until it contacts the cam timing gear. Hold it in this position while you tighten the retaining bolt to

6

When you

the torque listed

in this

Chapter's Specifications.

you plug in the sensor lead, make sure the lead away from the accessory drivebelt. 7

After

is

routed

Charge temperature sensor (1988 3.0L and1991

and earlier 3.3U3.8L engines) - replacement Refer to

illustrations 4.8a

and 4.8b

Note: This sensor requires a special factory tool (DRB-II) to diagnose voltage and resistance values under specific working conditions. If further diagnostic tests are required, have the sensor and the circuit diagnosed by a dealer service department or a qualified automotive repair shop.

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems

6-9

2 1

6-10

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems VACUUM CONNEaORS

4.8a Charge temperature and coolant temperature sensors (3.0L engine)

4.8b Charge temperature sensor location on the 3.3Ly3.8L engines

\

FUEL PRESSURE

REGULATOR VACUUM HOSEi

THERMOSTAT HOUSING 4.13a Coolant temperature sensor location on the 2.5L engine

FUEL SUPPLY

AND

RETURN HOSES

'

ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT

4.13b Coolant temF>erature sensor location for the 3.0L engine 4.13c Coolant temperature sensor (arrow) location for the 3.3Ly3.8L engines

Coolant temperature sensor General description

8 (see 9 10

Locate the charge temperature sensor on the

air

intake

plenum

illustrations). 1

Unplug the

electrical

connector from the sensor.

1

Reattach the electrical connector.

3

rein-

is

a thermisto

which varies the value of its voltage output in accordanci with temperature changes). The change in the resistance values will di rectly affect the voltage signal from the coolant temperature sensor. A the sensor temperature DECREASES, the resistance values will IN CREASE. As the sensor temperature INCREASES, the resistance val (a resistor

Unscrew the sensor.

Coat the threads of the new sensor (or the old one, if you're stalling it) with teflon tape, screw it in and tighten it securely. 1

illustrations 4. 13a, 4. 13b, 4. 13c and 4. 14 The coolant temperature sensor (see illustrations)

Refer to

8

5

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems

KNOCK SENSOR*^

nn CRANK POSITION

^

6-11

SENSOR

DISTANCE SENSOR

3-WAY ELECTRICAL

CONNECTION y^(


.

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems THROTTLE BODY

GROUND

4.45 Location of the oxygen sensor on the

U

/^

6-13

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR 3-WAY CONNECTOR

V6 engine 4.51a Electrical connector for the oxygen sensor (2.5L engine)

-AIR

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR^ 3-WAY CONNECTOR

,

/yr

//^

,

,,,>> v^e

/

//,#^ENGINE GROUND

^~^J^

CLEANER ASSEMBLY

\\\v3 STRAP

V

4.51b Electrical connector for oxygen sensor on the 3.0L engine

HEATED OXYGEN

SENSOR CONNEaOR

GROUND STRAP

produce a voltage output which varies from 0.1 -volt (high oxygen, lean mixture) to 0.9-volts (low oxygen, rich mixture). The ECU constantly monitors this variable voltage output to determine the ratio of oxygen to fuel in the mixture. The ECU alters the air/fuel mixture ratio by controlling

the pulse width (open time) of the fuel injectors.

A

4.51c Electrical connector for the oxygen sensor on a 3.3L engine

6 c)

mixture ratio

of 14.7 parts air to

1 part fuel is the ideal mixture ratio for minimizing exhaust emissions, thus allowing the catalytic converter to operate at maximum efficiency. It is this ratio of 14.7 to 1 which the ECU and the oxygen sensor attempt to maintain at all times. 46 The oxygen sensor produces no voltage when it is below its normal operating temperature of about 600-degrees F. During this initial

period before warm-up, the ECU operates in open loop mode. 47 If the engine reaches normal operating temperature and/or has been running for two or more minutes, and if the oxygen sensor is producing a steady signal voltage below 0.45-volts at 1,500 rpm's or

ECU

set a Code 21 a problem with the oxygen sensor or its circuit, the ECU operates in the open loop mode - that is, it controls fuel delivery in accordance with a programmed default value instead of feedback information from the oxygen sensor. 49 The proper operation of the oxygen sensor depends on four congreater, the

48

When

there

d)

Proper operating temperature - The ECU will not react to the sensor signal until the sensor reaches approximately 600-degrees F. This factor must be taken into consideration when evaluating the performance of the sensor. Unleaded fuel - The use of unleaded fuel is essential for proper operation of the sensor. Make sure the fuel you are using is of this type.

50 In addition to observing the above conditions, special care must be taken whenever the sensor is serviced. a) The oxygen sensor has a permanently attached pigtail and electrical connector which should not be removed from the sensor. Damage or removal of the pigtail or electrical connector can ad-

will

versely affect operation of the sensor.

is

b)

Grease,

dirt

d)

Do Do

e)

The

c)

not use cleaning solvents of any kind on the oxygen sensor. not drop or roughly handle the sensor. silicone boot

ditions: a)

installed in the correct position to pre-

-

ever a malfunction of the sensor b)

must be

vent the boot from being melted and to allow the sensor to oper-

The low voltages generated by the sensor depend upon good, clean connections which should be checked whenElectrical

and other contaminants should be kept away from

the electrical connector and the louvered end of the sensor.

suspected or indicated. Outside air supply - The sensor is designed to allow air circulation to the internal portion of the sensor. Whenever the sensor is removed and installed or replaced, make sure the air passages are not restricted.

is

ate properly.

Check Refer to

illustrations 4.51a, 4.51b, 4.51c, 4.51 d arid

Warm up

the engine and

4.54

Locate the oxygen sensor electrical connector (see illustrations) and connect the positive 51

let

it

run at

idle.

6-14

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems

4.51 d The oxygen sensor electrical connector is located on the back of the engine near the firewall on later model 3.0L engines. Back probe the connector and locate the signal wire by checking for a low millivolt discharge. To verify the correct wire, raise the engine rpm and observe a slight increase in voltage.

THROHLE POSITION

4.54 Back-probe the oxygen sensor electrical connector and locate the heater wire. This wire supplies battery voltage to

the sensor

57 58

Carefully disconnect the electhcal connector from the sensor. Carefully

unscrew the sensor from the exhaust manifold. Caution:

may damage the threads. compound must be used on the threads of future removal. The threads of new sensors will

Excessive force

SENSOR 3-WAY

59

CONNECTOR

Anti-seize

to facilitate

coated with

this

compound, but

if

an old sensor

is

the sensor already be

removed and

rein-

stalled, recoat the threads.

the sensor and tighten

60

Install

61

Reconnect the

electrical

it

securely.

connector of the

pigtail

lead to the main

engine wiring harness.

Lower the vehicle and reconnect the cable

62

to the negative termi-

nal of the battery.

Throttle FUEL INJECTOR

through 1990 2.5L engines)

2-WAY CONNECTOR

yAUTOMATIC

Refer to

SPEED

IDLE

SENSOR 2-WAY CONNECTOR

Remove the

63 64 probe of a voltmeter to the backside of the connector onto the signal wire (see illustration) and the negative probe to ground. The signal usually a black/blue stripe wire.

If

the color codes differ and

it

is

determine the correct wire, carefully probe the oxygen sensor connector terminals with the engine running and look for a wire that has only a very slight millivolt discharge. This will be the signal wire. difficult to

52

Increase and then decrease the engine speed and monitor the

voltage.

53

the speed

to 1.0 volts.

When

crease to about properly, replace

increased, the voltage should increase to 0.5

is

the speed with a

new

decreased, the voltage should deIf the oxygen sensor does not react

is

to 0.4 volts. it

replacement

air

cleaner (see Chapter

Disconnect the

throttle

Remove the screws from move the bracket.

65 66

Pulling

down, unplug the

the accelerator cable bracket and reelectrical

connector from the sensor

(see illustration).

Remove

67 68

the sensor.

Apply heat transfer compound (included with sensor) to the sentip.

69 70

Install

the sensor and tighten

The remainder

of installation

Throttle Position

part.

4).

cables from the throttle lever (see Chap-

ter 4).

sor

When

-

4.66

voltage

4.66 Location of the throttle body temperature sensor (1988 through 1990 2.5L engine)

is

illustration

Note: This sensor requires a special factory tool (DRB-II) to diagnose and resistance values under specific working conditions. If further diagnostic tests are required, have the sensor and the circuit diagnosed by a dealer sen/ice department or a qualified automotive repair shop.

THROTTLE BODY TEMPERATURE

MOTOR 4-WAY CONNECTOR

(AJS)

wire

body temperature sensor (1988

it

is

securely.

the reverse of removal.

Sensor (TPS)

54

Also inspect the oxygen sensor heater circuit for the correct voltage. With the engine running, probe the oxygen sensor electrical connector (see illustration) with a digital voltmeter on the heater wire (large green wire). Check for battery voltage. If there is no battery volt-

age present, trace the wire

for

an open or short

circuit condition.

contracts

when

when

it

is

installed in the exhaust manifold or pipe,

cool, the

oxygen sensor may be very

difficult to

which loosen

Rather than risk damage to the sensor (assumit in another manifold or pipe), start and run the engine for a minute or two, then shut it off. Be careful not to burn yourself during the following procedure. 55 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 56 Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. ing

the engine

is

cold.

you are planning

to

reuse

illustration 4.

The

74

is located on the end of the body. By monitoring the output voltage from the TPS, the ECU can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or loose TPS can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injector and an unstable idle because the ECU thinks the throttle is moving. 72 Disconnect the electrical connector from the TPS. 73 Using a digital ohmmeter, connect the positive probe to the center terminal and the negative probe to each of the outside terminals (in

71

Throttle Position

throttle shaft

Replacement Note: Because

Check Refer to

on the

Sensor (TPS)

throttle

turn).

74

Slowly

move

the throttle lever

until

it

is

wide open and observe

the resistance readings (see illustration). With the accelerator

fully

Chapter 6

6-15

Emissions and engine control systems

THROTTLE POSITION

CANISTER

SENSOR

PURGE NIPPLE

SENSOR NIPPLE

4.74 Position the probes on the TPS electrical terminals and slowly open the throttle valve until it is wide open. Observe a distinct decrease in the sensor resistance as the sensor travels from closed to full throttle

4.78a Removing the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) from the throttle body of a 2.5L engine

THROTTLE POSITION

SENSOR

AUTOAAATIC

IDLE

SPEED

(AIS)

(TPS)

MOTOR

4.78b Removing the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) from the throttle body of a 3.0L engine

4.78c Location of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on 3.3L/3.8L engines

eas on the

TPS potentiometer

will

show up as

erratic resistance read-

ings.

75

If

new

the resistance readings are incorrect, replace the

TPS

with a

part.

Replacement Refer to

TO

illustrations 4. 78a, 4.

On

76

78b and

2.5L engines, remove the

4.

air

78c cleaner assembly (see Chap-

ter 4).

CANISTE

77

PURGE

Unplug the

electrical

connector from the

TPS

(three-wire

connec-

tor).

CRANKCASE \ VENT VALVE

78 then

HOSE TO VALVE COVER

79

Remove the two screws retaining the TPS to the throttle body, the TPS off the throttle shaft to remove (see illustrations). Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the flat tip of the

pull

it

throttle shaft seats properly into the slot in the

ing

TPS. Tighten the

retain-

screws securely.

CRANKCASE VENT VALVE HOSE ASSEMBLY TO INTAKE

5

Positive

MANIFOLD 5.1a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system on the 2.5L engine

and 5. Id Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system (see illustrations) reduces hydrocarbon emissions by scavnging vapors from the crankcase. It does this by circulating fresh air from the air cleaner through the crankcase, where it mixes with blow-by gases and is then Refer to 1

it should read approximately 5.2K ohms. With the throttle lever open, it should read approximately 1 .4K ohms. Note: Also look for a smooth transition between high and low resistance. Any damaged ar-

closed,

fully

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

illustrations 5. 1a, 5. lb, 5. 1c

The

Positive

rerouted through a

PCV

valve to the intake manifold.

g

.

6-16

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems

CRANK CASE VENT VALVE

AIR INTAKE

AIR CLEANER

HOSE ASSEMBLY

PLENUM

ASSEMBLY

CRANK CASE

POSITIVE

CRANKCASE

|

VENTILATION (PCV) VALVE.

INLET

AIR FILTER

CRANK CASE VENT TO AIR CLEANER HOSE 5.1c

PCV valve and hose on

the 3.0L V6 engines

5.1b Schematic of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system on the V6 engine

5.1 d

Positive

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve (arrow) (3.3Ly3.8L engines)

The main components of the PCV system are the PCV valve, a 2 fresh air filtered inlet and the vacuum hoses connecting these two components with the engine. To maintain idle quality, the PCV valve restricts the flow when the intake manifold vacuum is high. If abnormal operating conditions (such

3

5.5 To check the PCV valve, detach it with the engine running you should hear a hissing sound coming from the valve and you should feel a strong vacuum when you place your finger over the end of the valve

as piston ring problems)

arise, the system is designed to allow excesblow-by gases to flow back through the crankcase vent tube into the air cleaner to be consumed by normal combustion. Checking and replacement of the PCV valve and filter is also cov4 ered in Chapter 1

sive

amounts

of

Check and component replacement Refer to

illustration

5.5

With the engine running at idle, pull the PCV valve out of the mount and place your finger over the valve inlet (see illustration). A strong vacuum will be felt and a hissing noise will be heard if the valve is operating properly. Replace the valve with a new one, as described in Chapter 1, if it is not functioning as described. Do not attempt to 5

clean the old valve.

form of hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. The system is very simple and consists of a charcoal-filled canis2 ter, canister purge solenoid, a combination rollover/pressure relief valve and connecting lines and hoses. When the engine is off and pressure begins to build up in the fuel 3 tank (caused by fuel evaporation), the charcoal in the canister absorbs the fuel vapor. When the engine is started (cold), the charcoal continues to absorb and store fuel vapor. As the engine warms up, the stored fuel vapors are routed to the intake manifold or air cleaner and combustion chambers where they are burned during normal engine operation.

4

The canister

solenoid, which

Evaporative emissions control system

Refer to

illustrations 6. 7a, 6. 7b, 6. 7c, 6.

76 and 6.8

General description 1

This system

from the

fuel

is designed to trap and store fuel that evaporates system that would normally enter the atmosphere in the

is

purged using engine vacuum through the purge

controlled by the

systems use a

SMEC

or

SBEC.

Single-point fuel

purge system. This system uses a dual source of vacuum to remove the vapors from the canister. Multi-point fuel injection systems use a tri-level canister purge system. The vapors are drawn in through the throttle body and air cleaner. Also, the vapors are drawn in at closed, part or wide open throttle. When the engine coolant temperature is below 70-degrees F the computer energizes the solenoid by grounding it so vacuum won't flow through it to the vacuum canister. Once the coolant temperature rises above 70-degrees F the solenoid is de-energized and vacuum then acts on the caninjection

6

is

ister.

bi-level canister

.

Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 6 2

WAY

ELECTRICAL

6-17

PURGE SOLENOID

CONNECTOR

EGR SOLENOID

CANISTER PURGE

SOLENOID

6.7b

6.7a Typical canister purge solenoid

On some models,

the canister purge solenoid next to the EGR solenoid

is

mounted

^AAP SENSOf

CANISTER PURGE

EGR DIAGNOSTIC SOLENOID

SOLENOID

(CALIFORNIA ONLY);

MAP SENSOR CONNECTION 6.7d

6.7c Canister purge solenoid on an early California

model

lines

It is a good idea to check for any crimped or leaking vacuum by applying vacuum directly at the throttle body (single-point system shown)

Check Check the canister, hoses and lines for cracks and other damage. To check the filler cap, look for a damaged or deformed gasket as de6

scribed

7

in

Chapter

1

To check the purge solenoid, disconnect one

hoses from

of the

vacuum

and attach a short length of hose to the port (see illustrations). You should be able to blow air through it. Unplug the electrical connector from the solenoid and apply battery voltage to the terminals using two jumper wires. Now when you blow into the hose, the valve should not pass air. Caution: Don't leave the jumper wires connected to the solenoid any longer than necessary to perform this it

check.

Component replacement Canister The canister is located in the right front corner of the engine partment, behind the headlight (see illustration).

8 9 6.8 Charcoal canister

5

A B

Canister signal hose

The

relief valve,

C

Tanl< vent

hose

tain level.

mounted in the fuel tank filler cap, is caltank vacuum or pressure reaches a cerThis vents the fuel tank and relieves the high vacuum or which

is

fuel

canister, disconnect the

vacuum hoses, unscrew it

from the engine

compartment. 1

open when the

To replace the

the mounting nuts and lower the canister, removing

Purge hose

ibrated to

pressure.

hose designation

com-

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Canister purge solenoid 11 The canister purge solenoid is located on the engine compartment firewall or the fenderwell area (see illustrations 6.7a through 6.7c). On models equipped with an EGR solenoid, this solenoid is

3

6-18

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems APPLY VACUUM TO VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

AIR CLEANER

ASSEMBLY

CRANKCASE VENT

HEATED

TO AIR CLEANER HOSE

AIR INLET

CONNECTOR

THROTTLE

BODY

AIR

HEATER

lONNECTOR AIR DUCT rO

POWER MODULE

LOWER SHELL ASSEMBLY To check the vacuum diaphragm, unplug the vacuum source hose from the sensor and attach a hand-held vacuum pump when vacuum is applied, the diaphragm should open the door and hold it open without leaking down - if the diaphragm fails to open the door or leaks, replace it with a new unit 7.8

Typical heated inlet air system

7.1

uum diaphragm, which operates a heat duct valve in the air cleaner, is actuated by intake vacuum. When the underhood temperature is cold, warm air radiating ofl 3 the exhaust manifold is routed by a shroud which fits over the manifolc up through a hot air inlet tube and into the air cleaner. This provides warm

air for the throttle body, resulting in better driveability and fastei warm-up. As the temperature inside the air cleaner rises, the heat dud valve is gradually closed by the vacuum diaphragm (which, in turn is controlled by a bi-metal temperature sensor inside the air cleaner) anc the air cleaner draws air through a cold air duct instead. The result is a

consistent intake

air

temperature.

Check Note: Refer to Chapter

1

for the initial

doesn't operate as described

in

Chapter

system check. If the systerr, 1, proceed as described be-

low.

7.10

The heated

inlet sensor is attached to the cleaner housing

air

mounted together

with the canister purge solenoid. Disconnect the vacuum hose(s), unplug the electrical connector(s), remove the mounting bolt and detach the solenoid(s) and bracket assembly from the fender panel.

12

1

Installation

7

Heated

is

the reverse of removal.

Always check the vacuum source and the integrity of all vacuum 4 hoses between the source and the vacuum diaphragm before beginning the following test. Don't proceed until you're sure they're okay. Apply the parking brake and block the wheels. 5 Detach, but do not remove, the air cleaner housing and element 6 (see Chapter 4). Turn the air cleaner housing upside down so the vacuum di7 aphragm door is visible. The door should be open. If it isn't, it might be binding or sticking. Make sure it's not rusted in an open or closed position by attempting to move it by hand. If it's rusted, it can usually be freed by cleaning and oiling the hinge. If it fails to work properly after servicing, replace

inlet air

system (single-point EFI systems

only)

8

If

the

it.

vacuum diaphragm door

to operate correctly,

Refer to

illustrations 7.1, 7.8

The heated

and 7.10

mixing

temperature within a 70 to 105-degrees F operating range by

warm and

cool

for the throttle body,

air.

This allows leaner fuel/air mixture settings

which reduces emissions and improves driveabil-

ity.

2

Two

fresh air inlets

ance between the two

is

okay, but the diaphragm

still fails

carefully for

(temperature control) system (see illustra-

inlet air

tion) provides heated intake air during v^/arm-up, then maintains the inlet air

is

a leak in the hose leading to it. Check the vacuum source to and from the diaphragm, and the operation of the diaphragm itself (see illustration) with a hand vacuum pump. If no leak is found, replace the vacuum diaphragm. If the diaphragm is okay, check the heated air temperature sensor.

General description 1

check

-

one warm and one cold

-

The balvacuum. A vac-

are used.

controlled by intake manifold

Component replacement On some models, the vacuum diaphragm is secured with a rivet, which must be removed with a drill. Use a self-tapping screw to install the new diaphragm. 10 To replace the heated inlet air temperature sensor, disconnect the hoses from each end of the valve, then install the new sensor facing the same direction as the old one (see illustration). 9

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems .EGR VACUUM iSIGNAL HOSE

GASKET

BOLTS

BOLTS'

8.2a Typical

GASKET

EGR system on four-cylinder engines

EGR TUBE ASSEMBLY

INTAKE

MANIFOLD

VAPOR

VACUUM HARNESS

EGR VALVE

EXHAUST ASSEMBLY

MANIFOLD

EGR

6-19

7

Chapter 6

6-20

BACKPRESSURE TRANSDUCER

Emissions and engine control systems

VACUUM MOTOR .SPRING

DIAPHRAGM

MOVEMENT INDICATOR

BACKPRESSURE SIGNAL

INLET 8.2f

8.2e

8.4

EGR

The

valve and Backpressure Transducer (Non-California V6 engines)

Electric

EGR Transducer

(EET)

is

mounted near the EGR

A B

8.5

EGR

Vacuum

valve mounting details (3.3L/3.8L engines)

Check

all

C

line

Electrical

Mounting bolt

connector

the hose connections directly on the throttle body

valve (late model 3.0L California engine shown)

EGR

EET electrical connector Vacuum connections

valve

Electric

EGR

Transducer (EET)

The solenoid may be engine compartment or on the Electric EGR Transducer (EET) (see illustration). Symptoms of problems associated with the EGR system are rough idling or stalling when at idle, rough engine performance during light throttle application and stalling with engine temperature

mounted on the

and

driving conditions.

right side of the

during deceleration.

Check Refer to

5

illustrations 8.5

Check

all

and

hoses (see

8.

illustration) for cracks, kinks,

broken sec-

and proper connection. Inspect all system connections for damage, cracks and leaks. 6 To check the EGR valve operation, bring the engine up to operat-

tions

blocked to prevent movement). 7 Disconnect the hose from the transducer (see illustration 8.2a through 8.2e) and connect a vacuum pump (see illustration). Start the engine, raise the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm, hold it there and apply ten inches of vacuum with the pump. The EGR valve stem should move and stay open for at least 30 seconds if the control system is working properly. ing temperature with the transaxle in Neutral (tires

8.7

Connect a vacuum pump

vacuum

and apply The EGR valve stem should

directly to the transducer

(10 inches-Hg) at 2,000 rpm.

move

(open)

1

1

Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 6 ASPIRATOR

AIR CLEANER TO SILENCER HOSE

6-21

DIAPHRAGM

SILENCER

CATALYST

DOWNSTREAM ASPIRATOR SILENCER TO

TUBE ASSEMBLY

ASPIRATOR HOSE VIEW

IN

9.1

8

If

the stem

TO EXHAUST MANIFOLD

DIRECTION

OF ARROW

FROM

Z

AIR

CLEANER

Typical air aspirator system

moves

but won't stay open, the

sure transducer assembly

is

faulty

EGR

valve/backpres-

and must be replaced with a new

one. If the EGR valve stem doesn't move except when vacuum from the pump is applied, remove the throttle body (see Chapter 4) and clean the EGR ports in the throttle bore and body with solvent.

9

idle is

the engine exhibits rough idle, dies when returned to idle or the both rough and slow, the EGR valve is leaking in the closed po-

sition.

Inspect the

10

If

EGR

tube for leaks at the connection to the mani-

Loosen the tube connection, then tighten it securely. Remove the EGR valve and transducer assembly and inspect the poppet to make sure it's seated. If it isn't, replace the EGR valve transducer assembly

fold.

with a

new

one; don't attempt to clean the

EGR

VIEW A 9.6 When the negative exhaust pulses are strong, air is drawn through the valve and into the exhaust manifold (view A) - when exhaust backpressure increases, the valve closes (view B)

valve.

Component replacement To remove the EGR valve and backpressure transducer, disconvacuum hose from the backpressure transducer assembly, then pull the assembly out of the mounting clip. Remove the bolts or unscrew the tube nut and disconnect the 12 1

nect the

crossover tube from the EGR valve. 13 Remove the mounting bolts' and detach the EGR valve and backpressure transducer assembly from the engine. Clean off all old gasket material from the mating surfaces of the valve and manifold, and be sure to use a new gasket when installing the valve.

14 The EGR solenoid (see illustration 6.7b).

is

located on the engine compartment firewall

to the air cleaner.

5

If

Air aspirator

system

illustration 9.

cleaner assembly and the exhaust system.

3 idle,

The aspirator valve works most efficiently at idle and slightly off where the negative exhaust pulses are strongest. The valve re-

mains closed

at higher

If

To determine

With the engine

in

cleaner hose connections for leaks.

new hose clamps

the hose has hardened, replace

inlet.

if

it

(if

with a

If

the hose con-

the hose hasn't hard-

new one as

well.

the valve has failed, disconnect the hose from the idling (transmission in Neutral),

front of the inlet

-

hold a strip of pa-

the paper should be sucked against the open-

if it's working properly. If a steady stream of exhaust escaping from the inlet (which will blow the paper away from the valve), the valve is defective and should be replaced with a new one (see illustration). Warning: Don't use your tiand to feel for the exhaust pulses - the exhaust gas can be very hot!

is

Component replacement The valve can be replaced by removing the hose clamp, detachhose and unscrewing it from the tube. The aspirator tube can be replaced by removing the valve, un8 screwing the fitting at the manifold and removing the bracket bolt. ing the

10

Module Engine Controller (SMEC) or Single Board Engine Controller (SBEC) - removal and installation

Single

Refer to

illustration

install

6 per

air

leaking, retighten the tube fitting.

engine speeds.

Check Refer to

is

nections are leaking, ened).

excessive, check the aspirator tube-to-exhaust

7

The air aspirator system (see illustration) uses exhaust pulsations to draw fresh air from the air cleaner into the exhaust system. This reduces carbon monoxide (CO) and, to a lesser degree, hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. The system is composed of a valve, hoses and tubes between the 2 1

air

is

and the valve and

ing of the valve

General description Refer to

joint

the manifold joint

gas

9

exhaust noise

If

manifold

9.6

4 Aspirator valve failure results in excessive exhaust system noise from under the hood and hardening of the rubber hose from the valve

illustrations 10.4a,

10.4b and 10.4c

Removal 1

Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable

the positive cable).

first,

followed by

6

6-22

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems DIAGNOSTIC

CONNEaOR

14-WAY WIRE

SCREWS

CONNEaOP:

(2)

SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROLLER (SMEC) 10.4a Detach the electrical connector from the SMEC/SBEC perfectly parallel to the unit to avoid bending any of the pins

SMEC can be removed after unplugging the electrical connectors and removing the bolts from the housing

10.4b The

2 3 4

Disconnect the

air

cleaner duct from the module.

Remove the battery (see Chapter 5). Remove the mounting bolts, unplug the connectors

tions)

and remove the

SMEC

or

SBEC

(see illustrafrom the engine compartment

SCREWS

DIAGNOSTIC

(see illustration).

(2)

CONNECTOR

Installation 5

Hold the module

in

position, install the bolts

and plug

in

the con-

nectors.

6 Connect the air cleaner duct. Install the battery and connect the battery cables (positive 7 then negative).

11

first,

Catalytic converter

Note: Because of a Federally mandated extended warranty which covcomponents such as the catalytic converter, check with a dealer service department before replacing the converter at your own expense. ers emissions-related

General description The

10.4c

an emission control device added to the exhaust system to reduce pollutants in the exhaust gas stream. There are two types of converters. The conventional oxidation catalyst reduces the levels of hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO). The three-way catalyst lowers the levels of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) as well as hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO). 1

catalytic converter

plugged. The easiest way to check for a restricted converter is to use a vacuum gauge to diagnose the effect of a blocked exhaust on in-

take vacuum. a)

The

b) c)

equipment for a catalytic converter is expensive and If you suspect the converter is malfunctioning, take the vehicle to a dealer service department or authorized emissions inspection facility for diagnosis and repair. Whenever the vehicle is raised for servicing of underbody compo3 nents, check the converter for leaks, corrosion, dents and other damage. Check the welds/flange bolts that attach the front and rear ends test

highly sophisticated.

of the converter to the exhaust system.

If

damage

is

discovered, the

converter should be replaced.

4

details

come

Check 2

SBEC mounting

is

Although catalytic converters don't break too often, they can be-

d)

Open

the throttle until the engine speed is about 2000 rpm. Release the throttle quickly. If there's no restriction, the gauge will quickly drop to not more than 2 inches-Hg or more above its normal reading. If the gauge doesn't show 5 inches-Hg or more above its normal reading, or seems to momentarily hover around its highest reading for a moment before it returns, the exhaust system, or the converter, is plugged (or an exhaust pipe is bent or dented, or the core inside the muffler has shifted).

Component replacement 5

Refer to the exhaust system servicing procedures

in

Chapter

4.

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle Contents

Automatic transaxle Band adjustment Diagnosis - general Fluid

and

Fluid level

-

removal and

and back-up and replacement

10

installation

See Chapter

Neutral start

1

2

change check

See Chapter See Chapter

filter

General information Ignition switch/shifter interlock

-

check and adjustment

Oil seal

switch

light

-

check

replacement

1

Speedometer drive pinion - removal and Shift cable - check and adjustment

1

Throttle pressure cable or rod

5

Transaxle mount

1

-

-

installation.

adjustment

check and replacement

Specifications Fluid type

See Chapter

and capacity

Torque specifications Neutral start Shift

and back-up

light

1

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise noted)

switch

cable adjustment bolt

25 105in-lbs

Throttle pressure cable/rod adjustment bracket lock bolt/screw

Transaxle case-to-engine bolts

Torque converter-to-driveplate bolts Transaxle mount through-bolts Transaxle mount attaching bolts

108 70 55 40 40

in-lbs

diagnosis, seal replacement, adjustments

General information

and removal and

installation

procedures.

manual come equipped with a three-

If the transaxle requires major repair work, it should be left to a dealer service department or an automotive or transmission repair

speed or four-speed automatic transaxle. Due to the complexity of the automatic transaxle and the need for special equipment and expertise to perform most service operations, this Chapter contains only general

shop. You can, however, remove and install the transaxle yourself and save the expense, even if the repair work is done by a transmission shop.

All

vehicles covered

in this

1

7

:

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle

7-2 Diagnosis

(none missing) and tight, the gasket is in good condition and the pan is (dents in the pan may indicate damage to the valve body inside). 15 If the pan gasket is leaking, the fluid level or the fluid pressure

general

-

flat

Note: Automatic transaxle malfunctions may be caused by four general Poor engine performance, improper adjustments, hydraulic malfunctions or mechanical malfunctions. Diagnosis of these problems should always begin with a check of the easily repaired items: Fluid level and condition (see Chapter 1), shift linkage adjustment and throttle linkage adjustment. Next, perform a road test to determine if the problem has been corrected or if more diagnosis is necessary. If the conditions:

problem persists

after the preliminary tests

pleted, additional diagnosis should

and corrections are com-

be done by a dealer service depart-

ment or transmission repair shop. Refer to the Troubleshooting section manual for transaxle problem diagnosis.

at the front of this

Preliminary checks warm

Drive the vehicle to

1

the transaxle to normal operating tem-

perature.

Check the

2 a)

as described in Chapter 1 unusually low, add enough fluid to bring the level within the designated area on the dipstick, then check for If

fluid level

the fluid level

is

external leaks. b)

c)

abnormally high, drain off the excess, then check the drained fluid for contamination by coolant. The presence of engine coolant in the automatic transmission fluid indicates that a failure has occurred in the internal radiator walls that separate the coolant from the transmission fluid (see Chapter 3). If the fluid is foaming, drain it and refill the transaxle, then check If

the fluid level

is

for coolant in the fluid or

a high

fluid level.

Check the engine idle speed. Note: If the engine is malfunctioning, don't proceed with the preliminary checks until it has been repaired and runs normally. 4 Check the throttle pressure cable or rod for freedom of move3

necessary (see Section 4). Note: The throttle pressure when the engine is shut off and cold, but it may malfunction once the engine is hot. Check it cold and at normal engine operating temperature. 5 Inspect the shift cable (see Section 3). Make sure it's properly adjusted and operates smoothly. ment. Adjust

may

cable

may be

may be plugged, the pan bolts may be too may be warped, the sealing surface of the transaxle housing may be damaged, the gasket may be damaged or the transaxle casting may be cracked or porous. sealant is used in place of a gasket, may be the wrong sealant. tight,

If

it

Seal leaks is leaking, the fluid level or pressure may be too may be plugged (these models are vented through the hollow dipstick), the seal bore may be damaged, the seal itself may be damaged or improperly installed, the surface of the shaft protruding through the seal may be damaged or a loose bearing may be causing

16

If

excessive shaft movement. 1 Make sure the dipstick tube seal is in good condition and the tube is properly seated. Periodically check the area around the speedometer gear or sensor for leakage. If transmission fluid is evident, check the 0-ring for damage. Also inspect the side gear shaft oil seals for leakage.

Case leaks If the case itself appears to be leaking, the casting is porous and have to be repaired or replaced. 19 Make sure the oil cooler hose fittings are tight and in good condi-

18

will

tion.

Fluid

comes out the filler opening

20

this condition occurs, the transaxle

in

If

the

fluid

procedure

7

a seal or gasket.

may

If

a leak

is difficult

to find, the follow-

help.

Identify the fluid.

9

fluid

sure

it's

transmission

fluid

and not engine

is

dripping onto the cardboard.

Make

a careful visual inspection of the suspected component and it. Pay particular attention to gasket mat-

the area immediately around ing surfaces.

A

mirror

is

often helpful for finding leaks

in

suspected component again. 12 Once the leak has been located, the cause must be determined before it can be properly repaired. If a gasket is replaced but the sealing flange is bent, the new gasket won't stop the leak. The bent flange must be straightened. 13 Before attempting to repair a leak, check to make sure the following conditions are corrected or they may cause another leak. Note:

be fixed without highly specialand expertise. Such problems must be referred to a transmission shop or a dealer service department. of the following conditions can't

ized tools

Gasket leaks 14

overfilled, there is coolant is

plugged or the drain

3

Shift cable

-

check and adjustment

Check 1

Check the operation to start the engine

in

of the transaxle in

each position

-

each

shift lever position

the starter should operate

in

Check the pan

Adjustment

periodically.

Make

3 bolt

Place the

shift lever in Park.

Working in the engine compartment, loosen the on the transaxle bracket.

shift

cable clamp

4 Pull the shift lever all the way to the front detent (Park position) by hand. 5 Keep pressure on the shift lever and tighten the cable clamp bolt. Check the shift lever in the Neutral and Drive positions to make 6 sure it's within the confines of the lever stops. The engine should start only when the lever is in the Park or Neutral position.

areas that are

hard to see. 10 If the leak still can't be found, clean the suspected area thoroughly with a degreaser or solvent, then dry it. 1 Drive the vehicle for several miles at normal operating temperature and varying speeds. After driving the vehicle, visually inspect the

Some

is

incorrect, the vent

back holes are plugged.

2

Make

or brake fluid (automatic transmission fluid

the

is

the Park and Neutral positions only).

a deep red color). 8 Try to pinpoint the source of the leak. Drive the vehicle several miles, then park it over a large sheet of cardboard. After a minute or two, you should be able to locate the leak by determining the source of oil

the dipstick

leaks are easy to locate visually. Repair usually con-

sists of replacing

ing

fluid,

it if

function properly

Fluid leak diagnosis Most

a transaxle seal

high, the vent

(try

6

too high, the vent

the pan sealing flange

sure the bolts are

all in

place

4

Throttle pressure cable or rod

Refer to 1

-

adjustment

illustration 4.3

The

throttle

pressure cable (four-cylinder models) or rod (V6 mod-

in the transaxle which governs shift quality and speed. If shifting is harsh or erratic, the throttle pressure cable or rod should be adjusted. 2 The adjustment must be made with the engine at normal operat-

els)

controls a valve

ing temperature.

Cable adjustment 3

Loosen the cable mounting bracket lock screw and position

the

contact with the transaxle casting (see illustration). Tighten the lock screw to the torque listed in this bracket so the alignment tabs are

in

Chapter's Specifications. Release the cross-lock on the cable assembly by pulling up on 4

it.

1

7-3

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle Move

8

against

its

the transaxle throttle lever toward the engine, hold stop,

and tighten the lock screw

it

firmly

to the torque listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

LOCK SCREW

9 ter

It's

a good idea to lubricate the linkage at this point (see Chap-

1).

THROTTLE

CONTROL CABLE

5

Ignition switch/shifter interlock

-

description,

check

and adjustment

Description

THROHLE

Refer to

PRESSURE

THROTTLE CONTROL LEVER

CABLE SELECTOR LEVER

/.

4.3 Throttle pressure cable details (three-speed transaxle only)

illustration 5.

The automatic transaxle shifter/ignition interlock (see illustration) is a cable-operated system that interconnects the floor-mounted shifter to the ignition switch on the steering column. The interlock system locks the shifter into the Park position when the ignition switch is in the Lock or Accessory position. When the key is in the Off or Run position, the shifter is unlocked and can move to any position. The in1

system also prevents the key from being turned to the Off or Accessory position unless the shifter is fully locked into the Park positerlock

tion.

To ensure proper adjustment, the cable must be

way toward

free to slide

the engine, against the stop, after the cross-lock

all

the

is re-

leased.

5

Move

the transaxle throttle control lever clockwise as far as pos-

sible (against the internal stop)

and press the cross-lock down

into the

locked position.

Check the cable way forward, release 6

action.

it

Move the transaxle throttle cable all make sure returns completely.

slowly and

Check Place the shift lever in the Park position and make sure the shift knob pushbutton is in its full up position. The ignition key should rotate freely from its Off/Run position to the Lock position. Move the shift lever to the Drive (or Overdrive) position. The igni3 tion key should not rotate from its Off/Run position to the Lock posi2

the

lever

tion.

it

You should be able

4

with the ignition key

Rod adjustment Loosen the adjustment swivel lock screw and make sure the swivel slides freely along the flat end of the throttle rod. If it doesn't, disassemble the linkage and clean or repair it as necessary. 7

STEERING COLUMN ASSEMBLY

to

move

Lock 5

the

in

to

move

shift lever

out of the Park position

shift lever

out of this position with the ignition key

in

the

position. If

the automatic transaxle shifter/ignition interlock system does

not operate as described above, try adjusting

SCREW

SHIFTER

HANDLE

INTERLOCK CABLE

AND LEVER

INTERLOCK CABLE

5.1

the

the Off/Run position; but you should not be able

Ignition switch/shifter interlock

ADJUSTMENT NUT

system

details

it,

then recheck

it.

1

7-4

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle ADJUSTING

NUT

GREEN PLUNGER

CABLE

SLUG 5.13 Loosen the adjustment nut on the interlock lever

enough

to

allow the spring to correctly position the interlock lever on the shift lever

assembly

CABLE

SLUG 5.10

The green plunger should be slug should be fully seated

all

in

CONTAa

the way up and the cable the interlock lever

WIRING CONNECTOR SWitCH 6.6 Neutral start

and back-up

switch details

light

tion (see illustration 5.1). 1 3 Loosen the adjustment nut (see illustration) on the interlock lever adjustment nut enough to allow the spring to correctly position the interlock lever on the shift lever assembly. 14 Tighten the interlock lever adjustment nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 15 Installation is the reverse of removal. 16 After adjusting the interlock system, check it again as described

6.1 There are two switches at the lower front of the transaxle on four-speed models (three speeds have only the one on the right) the switch on the right (1) is the Neutral start and back-up light switch; the switch on the left (2) is for the selector (PRNDL) indicator; the connector above the switches (3) is for the output speed sensor

6

If

5.10 and 5.13

illustrations

binding or

is

the Off position, even though the

system needs

Turn the ignition

7

difficult

or impossible to turn to

shift lever is fully

locked into the Park

be adjusted. switch to the Accessory position to

system cannot be adjusted correctly if the

the

the

shift lever.

9 plate

shift

knob

Leave the

To remove the

(the interlock

ignition switch is in the

Lock

retaining

shift

screw and remove the knob from

release button

in

the

shift lever

shift lever trim plate, carefully

handle.

pry between the

and the console with a screwdriver. Don't scratch or gouge the

plate or console assembly.

10

Put the

illustration) 1

light

4.

switch

-

check

illustrations 6. 1 and 6.6 The Neutral start and back-up light switch is located at the lower front edge of the transaxle (see illustration). The switch controls the back-up lights and the center terminal of the switch grounds the starter

solenoid circuit 2

shift lever in

on the

Park and

Verify that the slug

make

mechanism

sure the green plunger (see

the full up position. on the end of the interlock cable is completely

shift lever

seated into the interlock lever. 12 Verify that the ignition switch

is in

is still in

the accessory (ACC) posi-

when the

ity

transaxle

is in

Park or Neutral, allowing the

start.

Prior to

checking the switch, make sure the

adjusted (see Section

3

Remove

Neutral start and back-up and replacement

engine to

position).

8

Steps 2 through

1

the ignition switch

position, the

6

in

Refer to

Adjustment Refer to

above as described

shift

cable

is

properly

3).

Unplug the connector and use an ohmmeter to check for continubetween the center terminal and the case. Continuity should exist

only when the transaxle is in Park or Neutral. 4 Check for continuity between the two outer terminals. Continuity should exist only when the transaxle is in Reverse. No continuity should exist between either outer terminal and the case. If the switch fails any of the tests, replace it with a new one. 5 Position a drain pan under the switch to catch the fluid released 6 when the switch is removed. Unscrew the switch from the transaxle, using a box-end wrench to avoid damage to the switch housing (see illustration).

7-5

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle

SPEEDOMETER CABLE "O" RING

TRANSAXLE

PINION

EXTENSION HOUSING

7.2 Speedometer drive pinion installation details - models equipped with a mechanical speedometer use a cable (shown); those equipped with electronic speedometers use a wiring harness instead of a cable

Move

7

the

shift lever

from Park to Neutral and check to see in the opening.

10.7

be reassembled

the

if

Wrap

8

the threads of the

Plug

tions.

in

new

switch with Teflon tape,

to the torque listed

in this

fluid level

and add

fluid

install

it

in

Chapter's Specifica-

the connector and repeat the checks on the

Check the

9

it

new

switch.

as required (see Chapter

5

If

the

special

switch operating fingers are centered the case and tighten

Mark across the torque converter and

1).

drive pinion

-

removal and

Using a large section of pipe or a large deep socket as a drift, innew oil seal. Drive it into the bore squarely and make sure it's completely seated. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal lip before stall

the

the driveaxle.

tial

is

located

The manufacturer recommends that the

in

the transaxle differen-

oil

seal

drive

careful not to

the retaining bolt and carefully work the speedometer

assembly up and out

of the transaxle extension housing (see

9

if

the O-ring

Remove

Section

is

is

located on the

7).

9

Transaxle mount

1

Insert a large screwdriver or prybar

-

check and replacement

4

does, replace the mount.

leakage, pry off the retainer, detach the adapter from

Connect the adapter

to the pinion,

2

3

the pinion gear and replace the 0-ring.

5

new

leaking.

transaxle bracket and pry back and forth.

is

of the

the speedometer drive pinion and replace the O-ring (see

Inspect the pinion for signs that lubricant has leaked past the adapter or into the cable. 3

there

lip

il-

lustration).

If

damage the

be replaced be-

fore reinstalling the pinion.

Remove

Be

The speedometer cable and extension housing

termine drive pinion

extension housing. The drive pinion must be removed for certain

2

the driveaxle(s).

transaxle housing. Look for lubricant around the cable housing to de-

operations, such as to allow right side driveaxle removal and installation.

Install

seal.

installation

illustration 7.2

The speedometer

1

be removed with a screwdriver or prybar, a will be re-

6

8

Refer to

driveplate so they can

same way

quired.

7

Speedometer

seal can't

the

seal removal tool (available at auto parts stores)

oil

installing

7

oil

in

making sure the

retainer

is

se-

between the mount and the

The transaxle bracket should not move away from the mount.

To replace the mount, support the transaxle

with a jack,

If it

remove

the nut and through bolt and the bracket-to-transaxle bolts, then de-

cure.

tach the mount.

Make sure the mating surfaces of the adapter and extension 6 housing are clean because any debris could cause misalignment of the

slightly to

It

may be necessary

to raise or lower the transaxle

provide enough clearance to remove the mount.

4

Installation

10

Automatic transaxle

is

the reverse of removal.

gear.

7 it

Insert the

assembly

into the transaxle, install the bolt

and tighten

securely.

Refer to

8

Oil seal

1

Oil

-

removal and installation

illustrations 10.7, 10.19, 10.20. 10.21,

10.22a and 10.22b

replacement

Removal leaks frequently occur

due

to

wear

of the driveaxle

oil

seals

and/or the speedometer pinion drive gear O-ring. Replacement of the seals is relatively easy, since the repairs can usually be performed without removing the transaxle from the vehicle.

The driveaxle oil seals are located at the sides of the transaxle, where the driveaxles are attached. If leakage at the seal is suspected, raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. If the seal is leaking, lubricant will be found on the sides of the transaxle. Refer to Chapter 8 and remove the driveaxle(s). 3 2

4

Using a screwdriver or prybar, carefully pry the

transaxle bore.

oil

seal out of the

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. the front wheels. 1

2

3

Drain the transaxle fluid (see Chapter

On V6

Remove

1 ).

models, drain the cooling system and remove the coolant return extension (See Chapter 3). Remove the torque converter cover and the left splash shield. 5 6 Remove the driveaxles from the transaxle (see Chapter 8). Mark the torque converter and driveplate so they can be rein7 stalled in the same position (see illustration). 8 Remove the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. Turn the 4

3 4 7 8

7-6

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle FRONT ENGINE

MOUNT INSULATOR

^^ FRONT ENGINE.

MOUNT BRACKET TO CROSSMEMBER

LOWER RADIATOR HOSE

/ 10.19

Remove the mounting bracket

/

\-

10.20

Remove the front mounting

\

insulator through-bolt and unbolt the insulator from the transaxle

FRONT MOUNT INSULATOR

TRANSAXLE REAR END COVER 10.21

On four-speed models, remove this front engine mount

10.22a

Remove the

left

engine mount attaching bolts

crankshaft to bring each bolt into view. The crankshaft bolt can be reached through an access cover in the passenger side splash shield.

Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5). Disconnect the speedometer cable (mechanical speedometer) or electrical connector (electronic speedometer) (see Section 7). Unplug the electrical connector from the Neutral start/back-up 11 light switch. On four-speed transaxles, disconnect the PRNDL switch connector, output speed sensor connector, and input speed sensor connector as well (see illustration 6.1). On models equipped with a lockup torque converter, disconnect the converter electrical connector near the dipstick. 12 On models so equipped, disconnect the vacuum hose(s). 1 Remove any exhaust components that will interfere with transaxle removal (see Chapter 4). 1 On three-speed transaxles, disconnect the throttle pressure cable 9

10

or rod.

15 16

Disconnect the shift cable. Support the engine with a hoist from above or a jack from below (position a block of wood between the jack and oil pan to spread the load). 1

Support the transaxle with a jack - preferably a special jack made purpose. Safety chains will help steady the transaxle on the

for this

10.22b

jack. 1

Remove any

chassis or suspension components that

with transaxle removal.

will

interfere

.

.

.

and

this long through-bolt

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle Three-speed models 19

Remove

the engine

28

mount bracket from the

front

crossmember

(see illustration). 20 Remove the front mounting insulator through-bolt and unbolt the insulator from the torque converter housing (see illustration).

21

Remove

up.

29

models

22

the front engine

mount

insulator

and

its

bracket (see

il-

Remove Remove

the

left

engine mount attaching bolts and through-bolt

the bolts securing the transaxle to the engine.

Lower the transaxle

slightly

and disconnect and plug the

transaxle cooler lines.

the transaxle back to disengage

it from the engine block and make sure the torque converter is detached from the driveplate. Attach a small C-clamp to the transaxle case to prevent the torque converter from falling out during removal. Lower the transaxle

dow/el pins

from the vehicle.

Installation 26

Prior to installation,

make

sure the torque converter hub

is

se-

engaged in the pump. With the transaxle secured to the jack, raise it into position. Be sure to keep it level so the torque converter doesn't slide out. Connect curely

27

the

fluid

until

the dowel pins and

the transaxle housing-to-engine bolts. Tighten them se-

Install

31

Install

the torque converter-to-driveplate bolts. Tighten the bolts in this

Chapter's Specifications.

Install the engine mounts and any suspension and chassis com32 ponents that were removed. Tighten the bolts and nuts to the torque

(see illustrations).

Move

the transaxle forward carefully

to the torque listed

All

25

Move

transaxle housing are engaged. curely.

lustration).

23 24

Turn the torque converter to line up the bolts with the holes in the The marks on the torque converter and driveplate must line

driveplate.

30

Four-speed models

7-7

cooler

lines.

listed in this

Chapter's Specifications.

33 Remove the jacks supporting the transaxle and engine. 34 Install the starter motor (see Chapter 5). 35 Connect the vacuum hose(s) (if equipped). 36 Connect the shift linkage (and throttle pressure linkage on threespeed models). 37 Attach the electrical connectors to the Neutral start/back-up light switch.

38 39 40

Install the torque converter cover and left splash shield. Connect the driveaxles (see Chapter 8). Connect the speedometer cable (mechanical speedometer).

41

Adjust the

shift

cable (see Section

3).

42 Install any exhaust system components that were removed or disconnected. 43 Lower the vehicle. 44 Fill the transaxle and the cooling system (see Chapter 1), run the vehicle and check for fluid leaks.

7-8

Chapter 7 Automatic transaxle

Notes

Chapters Driveaxles Contents

Constant velocity (CV) joint boots - replacement Constant velocity (CV) joints - disassembly, inspection and reassembly Driveaxle boot check Driveaxle oil seal replacement Driveaxles

-

6

Driveaxles

Flywheel

- removal and installation removal and installation

General information Intermediate shaft (1991 and 1992 3.3L and 3.8L models only) - removal and installation

5

See Chapter 1 See Chapter 7

general information and inspection

-

2

Specifications

Driveaxle dimensions

inches

1988 and 1989 18-29/32 to 19-13/64 8-1/2 to 8-13/16

Right Left

1990

SSG Right Left

18 to 18-1/2 7-45/64 to 7-29/32

GKN Right

18-29/32 to 19-13/64

Left

8-1/2 to 8-13/16

1991 and later 2.5L and 3.0L engines Right Left

17-51/64 to 18-7/64 7-13/32 to 7-45/64

3.3L and 3.8L engines Right

1991 and 1992

1993 Left

7-13/32 to 7-45/64 17-51/64 to 18-7/64 7-13/32 to 7-45/64

Torque specifications

Ft-ibs

Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts Bearing bracket bolts for intermediate shaft Dhveaxle nut

21 21

180

3

See Chapter 2 1

4

8-2

Chapter 8

Driveaxles

EXPOSED BOOT RETENTION COLLAR

A.C.I.

INNER BOOT

G.K.N.

OPEN

TULIP 69/92

THREE PIECE

CONSTRUCTION

1

2

(OPEN TULIP)

G.K.N.

CLOSED TULIP 82/98

INNER BOOT

ONE PIECE ROUND EXTRUSION

S.S.G.

12345

(CLOSED TULIP)

2.4a

Use

123456

this chart to identify the driveaxles

end

1

General information

The information in this Chapter deals with the driveaxles. WarnSince nearly all the procedures included in this Chapter involve working under the vehicle, make sure it's securely supported on sturdy jackstands or on a hoist where it can be easily raised and lowered. ing:

2

Driveaxles

-

general information and inspection

General information illustrations 2.4a and 2.4b Power from the engine passes through the clutch and transaxle to the front wheels via two driveaxles. Most models have unequal length driveaxles; 1991 and 1992 models with a 3.3L or a 3.8L engine use equal-length driveaxles. On these models, the inner end of the right

Refer to

driveaxle is connected to an intermediate shaft; the point at which the two are connected is supported by a bearing and bracket. The inner

used on early models

.

is connected to the differential side gear Cardan-type joint. Each driveaxle assembly consists of three parts: A 'tripod" type inner CV joint, a "Rzeppa" type outer CV joint and an axleshaft which connects the two. Outer CV joint housings on both equal and unequal length driveaxles have a splined stub axle which engages with the front hub and is retained by a large nut. Inner CV joint housings have a short, splined stub axle which engages with the differential side gear (the CV joint housing for the right driveaxle on equal length systems engages with the intermediate shaft). The inner splined end of the CV joint housing is held in place by a spring inside the CV joint housing which pushes the housing toward the transaxle, keeping the stub axle fully seated in the differential side gears. As the driveaxles move through their range of travel, ball bearings inside the CV joint housings allow them to operate at various lengths and angles. These bearings must be lubricated with special grease and protected by rubber boots. You should periodically inspect these boots for tears and/or grease leaking out. Torn boots allow dirt and

of the intermediate shaft

via a

moisture to enter the

CV

joints;

if

not fixed, a simple tear accelerates

bearing wear and eventually causes premature

failure.

Chapters Driveaxles

8-3

TONE WHEEL (WHEN EQUIPPED WITH

OUTER BOOT

A.B.S.)

GKN

/WEIGHT

/

INNER BOOT

HALFSHAFTS LEF AND RIGHT EQUAL LENGTH -INNER

DAMPER WEIGHT

BOOT

y^

OUTER BOOT

TONE WHEEL

8

SAGINAW MANUAL 2.4b

and

If,

AUTOMATIC

this chart to identify the driveaxles

The vehicles covered by this manual can be equipped with Jnveaxles manufactured by ACI, GKN, SSG or Saginaw (see illustralons).

SAGINAW 2200

SAGINAW AUTOMATIC later

driveaxle for another or Inspection

after referring to the illustration, you're

still unable to deternine the manufacturer, take the driveaxle assembly with you when )uying boots or CV joint parts. Don't try to substitute one brand of

used on

models

swap

Periodically, inspect the tion (see

the

CV

Chapter

joints

may

parts from

one brand

to another

boots for leaks, damage and deterioraReplace damaged CV joint boots immediately or be damaged. You must remove the driveaxle (see

1).

4 5

8-4

Chapter 8

If there's no assistant handy to apply the brakes while you unscrew the hub nut, use a large screwdriver or pry bar to immobilize the hub

3.2

Section 3) to replace the boots.

Some

can be

when

pull

out the driveaxle

installed with-

out removing the driveaxle from the vehicle. This design repairs

Swing the steering knuckle away from the transaxle and

3.7

auto parts stores carry a conve-

nient alternative: "Split-type" replacement boots

emergency

Driveaxles

you're traveling, but

it's

is

handy

for

not a substitute for

one-piece boots. When a boot is torn, you must remove the dhveaxle and disassemble, clean and inspect the CV joint to make sure no moisture and dirt - which greatly accelerate bearing wear - have already

caused damage. The most common symptoms

of

worn or damaged

sides lubricant leaks, are: a clicking noise

in

CV joints,

turns, a clunk

when

be-

accel-

highway speeds. To wear in the CV joints and driveaxle shafts, grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it in both directions while holding the CV joint housings. Watch for movement, indicating worn splines or sloppy CV joints. Also, check the driveaxle shafts for cracks and distortion. erating from a coasting condition or vibration at

check

3

for

Driveaxles

-

removal and installation 3.8 Pry the inner

Removal and 3.8 hub cover). Remove the front hub nut cotter pin, nut lock and wave washer, if equipped. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the hub nut. Refer to 1

end

of the

CV joint

out of the differential side

gears with a large screwdriver or pry bar

illustrations 3.2, 3. 7

Remove

the wheel cover (or

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and supsecurely on jackstands (apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels). Remove the lug nuts, the front wheel, the hub nut and the big washer (see illustration). If you're removing the right driveaxle from a vehicle with unequal 3 length driveaxles, remove the speedometer drive gear (see Chapter 7) prior to removing the right axle. 4 Remove the steering knuckle-to-balljoint clamp bolt (see Chap-

while the driveaxles are out,

install

bolts through the

hubs and thread

nuts onto them to keep the bearings from loosening.

2

port

it

ter 10).

Disconnect the

stabilizer bar

ter 10).

7

Grasp the outer

10

Prior to installation, clean the

CV joint and

the seal

in

wear sleeve on the

driveeixle outer

the hub. Lubricate the entire circumference of

lip and fill the seal cavity with grease. Apply a 1/4-inch bead of grease to the wear sleeve seal contact area as well. 11 Apply a small amount of multi-purpose grease to the splines at each end of the driveaxle. Place the driveaxle in position and carefully

the seal

end of the shaft into the transaxle. Push the steering knuckle out and insert the outer splined shaft of

insert the inner

from the suspension arm to allow enough movement to separate the balljoint (see Chapter 10). Pry the lower balljoint stud out of the steering knuckle (see Chap6 5

Installation

12 the bolt

CV

joint

and the steering knuckle and pull the hub (see illus-

steering knuckle out to separate the driveaxle from the

tration). Be careful not to damage the CV joint boot. Caution: Don't pry on or damage the wear sleeve on the CV joint when separating it from the hub. Pry the inner end of the CV joint out of the differential (or interme8 diate shaft) with a large screwdriver or pry bar (see illustration). The driveaxles, when in place, secure the hub bearing assem9 blies. If the vehicle must be supported or moved on the front wheels

CV joint

13

into the hub.

Insert the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle, install the

and tighten

it

to the torque listed

in

clamp

the Chapter 10 Specifications.

a self-locking bolt. If it's worn, replace it with an equivDon't use an ordinary bolt. 1 Reattach the stabilizer bar (see Chapter 1 0). 1 Install the speedometer drive gear (see Chapter 7). Install the wheels and hand tighten the wheel lug nuts. Install the 16 spacer washer and hub nut and tighten the nut securely (don't try to

Caution: This alent

tighten

17

is

new bolt.

it

to the specified torque yet).

Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel

listed in

the Chapter

1

Specifications.

lug nuts to the torque

8

Chapters Driveaxles

8-5

turer (see illustrations 6.2a

OUTBOARD BOOT

22

INBOARD BOOT

If

and 6.2b

ened and the engine repositioned lengths.

the engine can't be

If

slotted engine mounts,

ets

and side

23

Measure the distance between the arrows

3.21

driveaxle

is

the correct length

when

If

to identify the driveaxle type).

mount

the dimensions aren't as specified, the

check

bolts

can be loos-

to obtain the specified driveaxle

moved enough within the range of the damaged or distorted support brack-

for

rails.

the engine

moved, see Chapter 7 and adjust the

is

shift linkage.

Intermediate shaft (1991 and 1992 3.3L and 3.8L models

to verify that the

models

installed

Tighten the driveaxle hub nut to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, then install the wave washer, nut lock and a new cotter

only)

-

removal and installation

Removal

1

1

pin.

Driveaxle position check Refer to

illustration

19

models have engine mounts with

All

3.21

side-to-side positioning of the engine. or

Refer to

left

If

slotted holes that allow for

the vertical bolts on the right

upper engine mounts have been loosened

the vehicle has been

damaged

any reason, or

must be checked/corrected. A driveaxle

quired

will result in

that's shorter than re-

objectionable noise, while a driveaxle that's longer

may

result in

4.3

the right driveaxle (see Section

3).

the speedometer drive gear from the transaxie extension 2 housing (see Chapter 7). Remove the bearing bracket mounting bolts (see illustration). 3 4 Place a drain pan underneath the right side of the transaxie to catch any lubricant that leaks out during removal of the intermediate shaft. Grasp the intermediate shaft securely with both hands and pull it

if

structurally at the front end, driveaxle

length

than necessary

for

illustration

Remove Remove

out of the transaxie.

Installation 5

damage.

20 The vehicle must be completely assembled, the front wheels must be properly aligned and pointing straight ahead and the weight of the vehicle must be on all four wheels. 21 Using a tape measure, check the distance from the inner edge on the outside of the boot to the inner edge of inside the boot on both driveaxles. Take the measurement at the lower edge of the driveaxles (six o'clock position) (see illustration). Compare the measurennent with the length listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Note that the required dimension varies with transaxie type and driveaxle manufac-

Place the intermediate shaft and bearing assembly

in

position

6 bolts

Place the bearing bracket in position, install the bracket mounting and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifica-

tions.

7

Lubricate the splines inside the pilot bore of the intermediate

shaft with a liberal

amount

of multi-purpose grease.

the right driveaxle (see Section

8

Install

9

Check and,

lubricant to bring

if it

necessary, add the

up

3).

recommended type

to the proper level (see

Chapter

of transaxie

1).

BUSHING AND ROLLERS

SCREW

SEAL

BUSHING

OUTER

RETAINER

SLINGER

BEARING ASSEMBLY SEAL RETAINER

BUSHING RETAINER

BUSHING

BUSHI RETAINER

AND 4.3

ROLLERS

An exploded view

and

carefully insert the splined stub axle into the transaxie.

of the intermediate shaft

assembly

8-6

Chapter 8 CAGE CROSS

Driveaxles

CUMP-

(DRIVER)

HOUSING

HOUSING

(RIGHT SIDE

(OUTER)

SHOWN)

SPRING

COLLAR

RETAINER

TRIPOD

NTERCONNECTING SHAFT WEIGHT (LERSOEONLY,

DAAi^PER

IFAPPUCAiLE) 5.4

5

Constant velocity (CV) joints and reassembly

-

Remove

CV joints

of a typical driveaxle

assembly

disassembly, inspection

Loosen the hub nut and the wheel 1 and support it securely on jackstands. 2

An exploded view

lug nuts, then raise the vehicle

the driveaxles (see Section 3) and identify which types of

are installed (see Section

2).

a vise, using wood blocks to protect it from the vise jaws. If the CV joint has been operating properly with no noise or vibration, replace the boot as described in Section 6. If the CV joint is badly worn or has run for some time with no lubricant due to a damaged boot, it should be disassembled and inspected. 3

Place one of the driveaxles

Inner

CV joint

Refer to illustrations 5.4 through 5.19, 5.24 and 5.27

4

in

Remove

TRIPOD RETAINING TABS 5.8, 5. 10, 5.11a, 5.11b, 5. 12, 5. 18,

//:p^

7

G.K.N.

the clamps and slide the boot back to gain access to the

Depending on the type of CV joint involved, separate the tripod from the housing as follows. On early GKN driveaxles, the retaining tabs are an integral part of 5 the housing cover. Hold the housing and lightly compress the retention spring while bending the tabs back with a pair of pliers (see illustra-

tripod (see illustration).

Support the housing as the retention spring pushes it off the triwill prevent the housing from reaching an unacceptable angle and keep the tripod rollers from being pulled from the tripod studs. On later GKN driveaxles, secure the CV joint housing in a vise 6 (see illustration). Hold the shaft at an angle and pull on it gently to free one of the tripod rollers. Detach the other tripod rollers in the same manner and take the housing off. 7 On SSG driveaxles, the tripod is retained in the housing with a wire ring which expands into a groove around the top of the housing. tion).

pod. This

5.5

To separate the tripod from the housing of an early-type GKN CV joint, bend up the retaining tabs with a pair of pliers

inner

Using a screwdriver, pry this ring out of the groove (see illustration) slide the tripod from the housing. On ACI driveaxles, the tripod retaining tabs are part of the boot 8 retaining collar, which is staked in place. Compress the retaining spring lightly while bending the tabs back with a pair of pliers (see illustration). Be sure to support the housing as the spring pushes it off

and

the tripod.

When removing the housing from the tripod, hold the rollers in 9 place on the studs to prevent the rollers and needle bearings from

1

.

Chapters Driveaxles

8-7

WIRE RING TRIPOD RETAINER

INTERCONNECTING BAR

TRIPOD

TRIPOD

HOUSING

BEARING

5.7

tripod from the housing of an SSG inner pry out the expander ring with a screwdriver

To separate the joint,

CV

tripod from the housing of a later-type GKN hold the shaft at an angle to the housing and pull gently to disengage each of the rollers in turn

To separate the

5.6

inner

CV joint, on

it

BOOT RETAINING COLLAR 5.10

The

tripod

on

all

except

axleshaft by a snap-ring

-

later

remove

GKN

it

driveaxles is held on the with a pair of snap-ring pliers

SNAP RING

TRIPOD RETAINING TABS

PLIERS

TRIPOD

8 To separate the tripod from the housing of an ACI inner CV Joint, compress the spring and bend back each tab with pliers

5.8

falling.

After the tripod

is

out of the housing, secure the rollers

in

place

with tape.

10

All

except

later

GKN

axles:

Remove

the snap-ring (see illustra-

tion). 1

Later

GKN

axles:

Expand the stop

ring

and

slide

it

away from the

tripod (see illustration). Pry off the circlip (see illustration).

12

Use a brass punch

to drive the bearing

and tripod assembly

off

the splined shaft (see illustration).

Loosen the boot clamp and remove the boot from the axle. Clean the grease from the tripod assembly. Check for score marks, wear, corrosion and excessive play. Replace any damaged or worn components. 15 Inspect the inner splined area of the bearing tripod for wear and damage. Replace parts as necessary. 16 Remove all old grease from the housing. Inspect the housing 13 14

INTERCONNECTNG SHAFT 5.11a

On

later

GKN

driveaxles,

expand the snap-ring that secures move it back along

the inner end of the tripod and the axleshaft

.

.

7

8-8

Chapter 8

Driveaxles

INTERCONNEaiNG SHAFT

SCREW DRIVER

CIRCLIP

5.12 Secure the bearings with tape and drive the tripod off the shaft with a brass punch and hammer

TRIPOD 5.11b ... then pry off the circlip with a screwdriver

CHAMFERED

SIDE

CHAMFERED END

NON-CHAMFERED END TRIPOD RETAINING RING GROOVE

A.C.I.

5.18

& G.K.N

On ACI and GKN CV joints, the non-chamfered end of the must face out when installed on the driveaxle splines

TRIPOD ASSEMBLY

tripod

5.19 splines, ball races, spring, spring shaft for wear,

cup and the spherical end

new boot on

1

Install

18

On ACI and

early

GKN

with the non-chamfered

the axle. driveaxles, slide the tripod onto the shaft

end facing out

(next to the snap-ring groove) (see illustration). 19 On later GKN driveaxles, slide the stop ring into its groove on the driveaxle. Install the tripod with its internally chamfered side toward the

stop ring (see illustration), then off the shaft

20

SSG

by hand;

if it

comes

install off,

the

circlip.

the circlip

Try to pull the tripod

isn't

properly seated.

driveaxles are equipped with tripods that can be installed

with either end out (both sides are the same). ring tripod retainer

Be sure

on the driveaxle shaft before

to install the wire

sliding the tripod

onto

the shaft.

necessary, use a section of pipe or a socket and hammer to it just clears the snap-ring groove.

21

If

carefully tap the tripod onto the shaft until

22

Install

a

in

damage, nicks and corrosion. Replace parts as neces-

sary.

the

The chamfer must face

of the

new

snap-ring or circlip and

make

sure

it's

seated

in

the

groove.

23 On ACI driveaxles, distribute one of the two supplied packets of grease in the boot and the remaining packet in the housing. On early GKN driveaxles, distribute two of the three or four packets of grease

supplied with the kit in the boot and the remaining packet(s) in the housing. On later GKN and all SSG driveaxles, distribute half the supplied grease in the boot and the other half in the housing. Make sure the grease is applied to the bearing grooves in the housing.

24 Position the spring in the housing spring pocket with the cup attached to the exposed end of the spring (see illustration). Apply a small amount of grease to the concave surface of the spring cup. 25 On early GKN driveaxles, slip the tripod into the housing and

bend the

On

down

retaining ring tabs

the tabs retain the tripod

GKN

in

to their original positions.

Make

sure

the housing.

in a vise and position Hold the housing at an angle and push it down over each of the tripod rollers in turn so the rollers lock into the housing. Make sure the rollers are locked into the housing. 27 On ACI driveaxles, slip the tripod into the housing but don't bend the retaining tabs (see illustration) back to their original positions. Reattach the boot instead, which will hold the housing on the shaft. When the driveaxle is reinstalled on the vehicle, make sure the tripod is

26

later

driveaxles, secure the shaft

the housing over the

rollers.

re-engaged in the housing. 28 On SSG driveaxles, install the tripod

in

the housing and secure

it

.

Chapters Driveaxles

SPRING CUP

8-9

BOOT RETAINING COLLAR TRIPOD RETAINING TABS

When assembling the inner CV joint, make sure the spring seated securely in the spring pocket and the spring cup is installed on the outer end

5.24

is

5.32a On ACI and GKN driveaxles, give the outer CV joint housing a sharp tap with a soft-face hammer to disengage it from the internal circlip installed in a groove on the outer end of the axleshaft .

.

5.27 On ACI driveaxles, press the housing onto the tripod - but don't try to bend the retaining tabs back to their original positions

5.32b

.

.

.and

remove the outer CV joint from the housing

with the wire retainer. Try to pull the housing

hold

it

off;

the retainer should

on.

Make sure the retention spring is centered in the housing spring pocket when the tripod is installed and seated in the spring cup. 30 Install the boot and retaining clamp (see Section 6). 29

CIRCLIP

Outer

RETAINER

CV joint

8

Refer to illustrations 5.32a, 5.32b, 5.32c, 5.36, 5.37, 5.38, 5.39, 5.42, 5.46a, 5.46b and 5.50

Remove the boot clamps and push the boot back. Wipe the grease out of the joint. Use a soft-face hammer

31

32

the housing off the axle (see illustrations). Support the is

done and rap the housing sharply on the outer edge

from the

internal circlip installed

on the

shaft.

On SSG

equipped with a damper weight), a single groove on the cross locks it to the axleshaft (see shaft

to drive

CV joint

as

this

to dislodge

it

driveaxles (axle-

circlip

located

illustration).

in

To

a

re-

move this type, mark the position of the damper weight, loosen the damper weight bolts, slide the weight and the boot toward the inner joint, remove the circlip with snap-ring pliers and slide the inner joint off

the axle.

33 5.32c

On SSG

driveaxles, a single circlip located the cross locks it to the axleshaft

in

a groove

in

Slide the boot off the driveaxle.

erly

and the grease doesn't appear

new

one.

If

the

CV joint was

operating prop-

be contaminated, just replace the boot (see Section 6). Skip the following disassembly procedure. If the CV joint was noisy or the grease was contaminated, proceed with the disassembly procedure to determine if it should be replaced with a to

Chapter 8

8-10

Driveaxles

5.36 After removing the grease, mark the bearing cage, cross and housing to ensure that they're reinstalled in the same relationship to

5.37 With the

cage and cross tilted like this, remove the bearings one at a time

ball

one another

BALL RACE

CAGE

WINDOW

5.38 in

Tilt the cross and cage 90 degrees, then align the windows the cage with the lands and rotate the cross up and out of the housing

5.39 Turn the cross 90 degrees, align the race lands with the cage windows and rotate the race out of the cage

the driveaxle

is

being replaced with a

new

one.

35 Clean the axle spline area and check the splines for wear, damage and corrosion. 36 Clean the outer CV joint bearing assembly with a clean cloth to remove excess grease. Mark the relative position of the bearing cage, cross and housing (see illustration). 37 Grip the housing shaft securely in the wood blocks in the vise. Push down one side of the cage and remove the ball beahng from the opposite side. Repeat the procedure in a criss-cross pattern until all of the balls are removed (see illustration). If the joint is tight, tap on the cross (not the cage) with a hammer and brass punch. 38 Remove the bearing cage assembly from the housing by tilting it vertically and aligning two opposing elongated cage windows in the area between the ball grooves (see illustration). 39 Turn the cross 90-degrees to the cage and align one of the spherical lands with an elongated cage window. Raise the land into the window and swivel the cross out of the cage (see illustration). 40 Clean all of the parts with solvent and dry them with compressed air

the wear sleeve (on models so equipped) requires replacement, pry it off the housing with a screwdriver

5.42

34

If

Remove

rebuild

the circlip from the driveaxle groove and discard it (the include a new circlip). GKN and ACI driveaxles are

races. If any of the components are not serviceable, the entire CV joint assembly must be replaced with a new one. 42 Check the outer housing wear sleeve for damage and distortion. If it's

ring,

which must not be removed unless

available).

Inspect the housing, splines, balls and races for damage, corrosion, wear and cracks. Check the cross for wear and scoring in the

kit w/ill

equipped with a large spacer

(if

41

damaged

or worn, pry the sleeve off the housing (see illustration)

Chapters Driveaxles BOOT RETAINING GROOVE-A.C.I.

8-11

CAGE WINDOWS

JOINT HOUSING CIRCLIP

RETAINER

CROSS-LARGE COUNTERBORE

OUT

WEAR

SLEEVE

On SSG

5.46b

^9^^

On GKN and ACI CV joints, make sure the large counterbore faces out when the joint is reassembled

6.8

5.50 Strike the end of the housing with a soft-face engage it with the small circlip

and replace

new

it

with a

new

one.

A

special tool

is

hammer to

available for installing

sleeve, but a large section of pipe slightly smaller

than the outer edge of the sleeve nick or

gouge the

will

work

if

care

is

in

diameter

exercised (don't

lands

elongated window. 45 Rotate the cross into position in the cage and install the assembly in the CV joint housing, again using the elongated window for clearance. 46 Rotate the cage into position in the housing. On GKN and ACI driveaxles, the large counterbore of the cross must face out (see illustration). On SSG driveaxles, the internal circlip in the cross will be facing out from the housing (see illustration). On all driveaxles, make sure the marks made during disassembly face out and are aligned. 47 Pack the lubricant from the kit into the ball races and grooves. 48 Install the balls into the elongated holes, one at a time, until into the

they're

all in

position.

49

Place the driveaxle

cept

SSG

in

the vise and slide the boot over

driveaxles, install a

not to twist

it.

SSG

new

circlip in

it.

On

all

ex-

driveaxles have a reusable retainer integral with the

CV

housing in position on the axle, align the splines and rap it sharply with a soft-face hammer -(see illustrations). Make sure it's seated on the circlip by attempting to pull it off the shaft. 51 Install the boot (see Section 6). Place the

joint

the

the driveaxle (see Section

6

Constant velocity (CV)

joint

(GKN and ACI)

3).

boots

-

replacement

Note: If the instructions supplied with the replacement boot kit differ from the instructions here, follow the ones with the new boots. A special tool, available at most auto parts stores, is required to install the factory-supplied boot clamps. Do-it-yourself kits which offer greatly simplified installation may be available for your vehicle. Consult an auto parts store or dealer parts department for more information on these kits.

joint

If the boot is cut, torn or leaking, it must be replaced and the CV inspected as soon as possible. Even a small amount of dirt in the

joint

can cause premature wear and

kit

failure.

Obtain a replacement boot

before beginning this procedure. There are several different types of

boot, each with its own replacement procedure. Compare the boots on your vehicle to the following illustrations to determine which procedure to follow.

Remove the driveaxle (see Section 3). Disassemble the CV joint and remove the boot as described in 3 Section 5. Inspect the CV joint to determine if it's been damaged by contam4 ination or running with too little lubricant. If you have any doubts about the condition of the joint components, perform the inspection procedures described in Section 5. Clean the old grease out of the CV joint and repack it with the 5 grease supplied with the kit. 6 Pack the interior of the new boot with the remaining grease. Install the boot and clamps as follows. 7 2

the axle groove, taking care

driver assembly.

50

installation details

Install

1

Apply a thin coat of oil to all CV joint components before beginning reassembly. 44 Align the marks and install the cross in the cage so one of the

CV joint boot

in

LOCATING MARK

CLAMP

52

seal mating surface).

43

fits

is

BOOT RETAINING SHOULDER-G.K.N.

5.46a

the

make sure the internal circlip facing out from the housing

driveaxles,

cross

CROSS-SMALL COUNTERBORE INWARD'

Soft rubber boots (except

SSG right inner joint)

Refer to 6.15b

illustrations 6.8, 6. 10, 6.

13a, 6. 13b, 6. 14, 6. 15a

8

end of the boot over the mark or groove (see illustration).

Slide the small

locating

1 1, 6.

shaft

and

align

and it

with the

8

2 1

8-12

Chapter 8

TOOL

6.10

Wrap the clamp around the boot twice,

.

Driveaxles

C-4653

leaving about 2-1/2

6.11

inches of extra material, then cut off the excess

6.13a

Install

the strap on the boot and bend can't

it

back so

Pass the strap around the buckle and fold it back about 1/8 inch on the inside of the buckle

6.13b Attach the tool about 1/2-inch from the buckle

it

1-

.

unwind

CV joint housing. 10

Wrap

the clamping strap around the boot twice, plus 2-1/; and cut it off (see illustration). 1 Pass the end of the strap through the buckle opening and fold back about 1-1/8 inch on the inside of the buckle (see illustration). 1 Position the clamping strap around the boot, on the clamping sur face, with the eye of the buckle facing you. Wrap the strap around th( boot once and pass it through the buckle, then wrap it around a sec ond time and pass it through the buckle again. 13 Fold the strap back slightly to prevent it from unwinding itself (se< illustration), then open the special tool (C-4653) and place the strap inches,

i

ir

the narrow

6.14 ... then push the tool forward and up to hook in the buckle eye

9

Place the large diameter of the boot

in

engage the

tool

the groove. Note: Clamp-

ing procedures are Identical for attaching the boot to the shaft

and

the

about 1/2-inch from the buckle (see illustration). 14 Hold the strap with one hand and push the tool forward and uf slightly, then fit the tool hook into the buckle eye (see illustration). 15 Tighten the strap by closing the tool handles (see illustration) then rotate the tool down slowly while releasing the pressure on th( handles (see illustration). Allow the handles to open progressively then open the tool all the way and slide it sideways off the strap. Cau tion: Never fold the strap back or rotate the tool down while squeezinc the handles together (if this is done, the strap will break). 16 If the strap isn't tight enough, repeat the procedure. Always engage the tool about 1/2-inch from the buckle. Make sure the strap moves smoothly as tightening force is applied and don't allow the buckle to fold over as the strap passes through it. 17 When the strap is tight, cut it off 1/8-inch above the buckle anc fold it back neatly. It must not overlap the edge of the buckle. slot,

8

Chapters Driveaxles

6.15a Close the tool handles slowly to tighten the clamp strap

POSITION

ON

6.15b

.

.

INNER FLAT

.

8-13

then rotate the tool down while releasing the pressure on the handles (allow the handles to open)

C.V.

JOINT

HOUSING

BETWEEN LOCATING SHOULDERS

LOW PROFILE ClAMP

CLAMPS

6.20 Position the

edge

of the boot

on the

locating shoulders, then secure

it

flat

between the

with the clamp

INNER C.V. JOINT BOOT

TOOL

SPECIAL

YA-3050 6.23a Install the large clamp as

1

Repeat the procedure

shown

remaining boot clamps.

for the

Soft rubber boots (SSG right inner Refer to

19

illustrations 6.20,

Slip the

clamp

8

CV joint only)

6.23a and 6.23b

end of the boot onto the driveaxle

for the small

shaft.

20

Slip the

boot onto the shaft and position

it

on the

flat

between the

locating shoulders (see illustration).

21

Slip the small

clamp over the boot and crimp

it

with Tool

041 24 or

equivalent.

22 23

Install

the

CV joint

(see Section

5).

the large end of the boot and position its clamp. Tighten the clamp with Tool 04124 (automatic transaxle) or YA3050 (manual Install

transaxle) (see illustrations).

Hard plastic boots (SSG outer 6.23b then place the prongs of the special tool in the holes the clamp and compress the tool until the two ends meet .

.

.

in

left

inner and both

CV joints)

Refer to illustrations 6.25 and 6.27

24

Slip the

shaft.

clamp

for the small

end

of the boot onto the driveaxle

8-14

Chapter 8 Driveaxles 300T

CLAMP

LIP IN

6.25 Position the

25

Slip the

lip

THIRD

SPECIAL

TOOL C-4579

GROOVE

of the boot in the third groove on the axleshaft

boot onto the shaft and position

its lip in

the third locating

groove, nearest the center of the driveaxle shaft (see illustration).

Center the clamp over the end of the boot (see illustration 6.25). Install a clamp crimping tool (C4975) on the clamp bridge (see illustration). Tighten the tool until its jaws touch each other. 28 Release the crimping tool.

26 27

29 Install the CV joint (see Section 5). 30 Place the large end of the boot over the CV and secure the clamp (see Steps 26 through 28).

joint

housing.

Install

BRIDGE

OF CLAMP 6.27 Because the clamps used with hard plastic boots must generate approximately 100 times the clamping force of those used with rubber boots, this special tool is necessary to crimp the clamps securely

Chapter 9

Brakes

Contents

System (ABS) - general information Brake check Brake fluid level check Brake hoses and lines - inspection and replacement Brake hydraulic system - bleeding Brake light switch - check and replacement Front brake disc - inspection, removal and installation Front disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and

Anti-lock Brake

1 1

11

13 18 4

Parking brake

adjustment - removal and installation Parking brake shoes (rear disc brake models) - removal

14 15

and installation Power brake booster

16 17

pads

replacement

-

General information -

2 1

removal and

installation

10

-

Parking brake cables

check, removal and installation removal, inspection and installation -

Rear brake disc Rear brake shoes - replacement Rear disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and

3

installation

Front disc brake

Master cylinder

12

See Chapter See Chapter

7

8 6

installation

Rear disc brake pads - replacement Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment

Wheel cylinder

-

removal, overhaul and installation

5

See Chapter

1

9

Specifications

Brake

fluid

See Chapter

type

1

Disc brakes Brake pad wear

Minimum

See Chapter 1 See specs cast

limit

disc thickness

Disc runout (maximum) Disc thickness variation

limit (parallelism)

into disc

0.004 inch 0.0005 inch

Drum brakes Brake shoe wear

limit

See Chapter

1

Drum

9

Standard diameter Maximum diameter Runout (maximum) Out-of-round (maximum) In 30-degrees In 360-degrees Parking brake adjustment diameter (models with rear disc brakes

8.66 inches

Torque specifications

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Master cylinder-to-booster nuts Power brake booster-to-firewall nuts Caliper guide pin(s) (front)

17 to 25 17 to 25

1990 and 1991 On

later

Double-pin family caliper Double-pin non-family caliper

See specs cast

into

drum

0.006 inch

0.0025 inch 0.0035 inch 6-3/4 inches

25 to 35 30 25 to 35 18 to25

.

9-2

Chapter 9

Torque specifications (continued)

Brakes

Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)

Caliper attaching bolts (rear)

1991 and earlier 1992 on Caliper mounting bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts Brake hose-to-caliper inlet fitting bolt

20 16

160

Front

1991 and

19 24 24 75

earlier

1992 on Rear Wheel cylinder-to-brake backing plate bolts Brake backing plate-to-rear axle bolts 1988 through 1991 1992 on

in-lbs

45 to 60 80 See Chapter

Wheel nuts

1

General information

All

models are equipped with hydraulically operated disc front drum brakes are standard on all models. Rear disc brakes

brakes. Rear

are optional on later models.

The

brakes use a single-piston, floating-caliper design. all manufactured by Kelsey-Hayes, are used: single-pin/double-pin family, and double-pin non-family. Warning: The calipers differ in design, so parts are not interchangeable. Using parts from the wrong design could lead to complete brake failure. The single-pin caliper, used on early models, floats on a single steel pin that threads into an adapter. The adapter is attached to the steering knuckle. The double-pin family caliper is secured by two steel pins that thread into an adapter, which in turn is attached to the steerfront

Three types of

ing knuckle.

caliper,

The double-pin non-family

caliper

is

attached directly to

the steering knuckle by two steel pins.

The rear drum brakes are a leading/trailing design with automatic adjustment. The brakes may be manufactured by Kelsey-Hayes or Varga. Service procedures for both designs are nearly identical; differences are pointed out as they occur. The optional rear disc brakes use single-pin floating calipers. Warning: There are two sizes of rear disc brakes. Parts are not interchangeable between the two sizes or between front and rear disc brakes. Use of the wrong parts could cause complete brake failure. Front-wheel drive vehicles tend to wear the front brake pads at a faster rate than rear-drive vehicles. Consequently, it's very important to inspect the brake pads frequently to make sure they haven't worn to the point where the disc itself is scored or damaged. Note that the pad thickness limit on these models includes the metal portion of the brake pad, not just the lining material (see Chapter 1). The hydraulic system consists of two separate circuits. The master cylinder has a separate section in the reservoir for each circuit in the event of a leak or failure in one hydraulic circuit, the other circuit will remain operative. Some models have an Anti-lock Braking system (ABS) that aids vehicle stability during heavy braking or on wet or uneven road surfaces. All non-ABS models have a load sensing dual proportioning valve which modulates the rear brake pressure, depending on vehicle load. All models are equipped with a cable-actuated parking brake, which operates the rear brakes. On vehicles with rear drum brakes, the parking brake expands the brake shoes. On rear disc brake models, the parking brake uses a separate set of drum brakes, mounted inside

drums

2

integral with the rear

brake discs.

Front disc brake pads

-

replacement

Warning: Disc brake pads must be replaced on both front wheels at the same time - never replace the pads on only one wheel. Also, the

To get

2.2a

remove the guide pins (arrows) (doubleshown; some calipers have only a single

at the pads,

pin family caliper

lower pin)

.

.

dust created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtering mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleumbased solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake system cleaner or clean brake fluid only! Note: When servicing the disc brakes, use high-quality, nationally-recognized,

name-brand parts.

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake, then remove the front wheels. Note: The pad replacement procedure varies, depending on which design you have. Count the caliper mounting pins. If it has one pin, it's a single-pin caliper; if it has two, note whether it's attached directly to the steering knuckle or to an adapter If the caliper is attached directly to the knuckle, it's a non-family caliper; if attached to an adapter, it's a family caliper 1

Single-pin Refer to 2

and double-pin

family caliper

illustrations 2.2a, 2.2b, 2.3, 2.4a,

Remove

2.4b and 2.6

the caliper guide pin(s) (see illustration), swing up the

lower end of the caliper and

pull

it

off the caliper

mounting bracket

(see illustration). Support the caliper out of the way with a wire hanger (see illus3 tration). Warning: Don't allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 4 Detach the outer brake pad from the caliper mounting bracket (see illustrations). If you're replacing the pads on a single-pin or early double-pin caliper, remove the anti-rattle spring from the bottom of the

pad and

install

it

on the new outer pad.

Chapter 9

9-3

Brakes

BRAKING DISC

ANTI-RAHLE CLIP

CALIPER

and pivot the caliper off the mounting bracket (pry it 2.2b loose from the bracket if necessary) - note the anti-rattle clip at the top of the caliper .

.

.

2.3

Hang the

caliper out of the let

it

way

with a piece of wire

-

do

NOT

hang by the brake hose!

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

BRAKING DISC

To remove the outer pad from a later double-pin family disengage the upper end of the brake backing plate from anti-rattle spring and remove the pad - after you remove the inner 2.4b

2.4a

To remove the outer pad from a

single-pin or early double-

it straight off - then remove the antithe bottom of the pad and transfer it to the new outer pad

pin family caliper, simply pull rattle clip at

caliper,

pad, the anti-rattle spring (arrow)

mounting bracket, so note how

it's

will fall

installed

out of the caliper

BEFORE you remove

the inner pad 5

Remove

the brake disc (see Section

4).

Detach the inner brake pad (see illustration). If you're replacing the pads on a single-pin caliper or early double-pin caliper, remove the anti-rattle spring from the top of the inner pad and install it on the new inner pad. If you're replacing the pads on a later double-pin caliper, note how the anti-rattle spring clip is installed on the caliper mounting bracket, in case it falls off before you install the new pads. 7 Inspect the caliper and caliper mounting bracket for wear, damage, rust and evidence of fluid leaks. If the caliper-to-bracket mating surfaces are rusty, clean them thoroughly with a wire brush (the caliper must be able to move freely when the brakes are applied). Also inspect the brake disc (see Section 4). Siphon some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, or 8 place rags or newspapers underneath the reservoir to catch the overflow that will occur when the piston is pushed back to make room for the new pads. Then use a piece of wood to carefully push the piston into the caliper bore far enough to provide clearance for the new pads. Apply a thin film of Mopar Multipurpose Lubricant or high-temper9 ature brake grease to the adapter-to-brake pad and caliper mating surfaces. Caution: Don't get any grease on the pad lining material, gasket 6

surface or brake disc.

ANTI-RATTLE CLIP

and

pad

the mounting br^oket - on single-pin remove the anti-rattle clip from the top of the pad and transfer it to the new pad

2.6 Slide the inner

off

early double-pin family calipers,

5 7 1

9

9-4

Chapter 9

Brakes AAACHINED ABUTMENT

GUIDE PIN BOLT

BLEEDER SCREW

BRAKING DISC

CALIPER ASSEMBLY

Work the hold-down spring out from under the machined abutment and remove the caliper together with the pads

2.19 2.18 Kelsey-Hayes non-family caliper mounting details

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY 2.20 Pry the outer

10 Remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gasket on both pads. Install the inner brake pad, making sure the anti-rattle spring

is

secure.

the brake disc (see Section 4). Place the outer pad in position in the caliper mounting bracket. Make sure the anti-rattle spring is secure. 13 Slide the caliper into position over the pad and disc assembly. On single-pin or early double-pin types, be sure the anti-rattle clip is en1

Install

12

gaged 14 this

correctly.

the guide pin(s) and tighten it/them to the torque listed in Chapter's Specifications. Don't cross-thread the guide pin(s) durInstall

ing installation. 1

Repeat Steps 2 through

16

Install

listed in

1

4 for the other caliper.

the wheel, tighten the wheel lug nuts to half the torque the Chapter 1 Specifications and lower the vehicle. Tighten the

Chapter 1 Specifications. brake pedal several times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. Check the brake fluid level (see Chapter 1). Drive the vehicle in an isolated area and make several stops to wear off any foreign lug nuts to the torque listed irrthe 1

Pump the

material

on the pads and seat them on the

disc.

Double-pin non-family caliper Refer to

18

illustrations 2. 18, 2. 19, 2.20, 2.21,

Remove

2.21

pad loose from the caliper with a screwdriver

2.26a and 2.26b

the caliper guide pin bolts (see illustration).

To disengage the

retainer spring (on the back of the inner pad) from the piston, pull the inner pad straight out

Pivot the bottom of the caliper away from the brake disc and lift (see illustration), together with the brake pads. Warning: Once the caliper is off, don 't let it hang by the brake hose! Support it by hanc 1

il

off

while removing the pads, then

hang it from

the vehicle with wire (see

il-

lustration 2.3).

20

Pry the outer pad

Remove

away from the

caliper (see illustration).

it straight away from the piston (see illustration). 22 Inspect the caliper and caliper mounting bracket for wear, damage, rust and evidence of fluid leaks. If the caliper-to-bracket mating surfaces are rusty, clean them thoroughly with a wire brush (the caliper must be able to move freely when the brakes are applied). Also insped

21

the inner pad by pulling

the brake disc (see Section

4).

Siphon some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, oi place rags or newspapers underneath the reservoir to catch the overflow that will occur when the piston is pushed back to make room for the new pads. Then use a piece of wood to carefully push the piston into the caliper bore far enough to provide clearance for the new pads. 24 Apply a thin film of Mopar Multipurpose Lubhcant or high-temperature brake grease to the adapter-to-brake pad and caliper mating surfaces. Caution: Don't get any grease on the pad lining material, gasket 23

surface or brake disc.

25 cess.

Install

the inner pad by pressing the retainer into the piston re-

9-5

Brakes

Chapter 9

INBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT

AND

LEFT

COMMON)

CALIPER 2.26b

the caliper and engage the pad retainer the caliper body

Work the pad onto spring

vi/ith

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY (RIGHT SIDE SHOWN) 2.26a Inner pads on non-family calipers are interchangeable; outer pads must be installed on the proper side of the vehicle the pads are marked to indicate the correct side

3.6 Place a piece of wood between the caliper and piston, then force the piston out of the caliper bore with compressed air - be sure to keep your hands and fingers out of the way during this

calipers are available

easy.

3.2 Place

some shop

inlet fitting bore,

rags or newspapers under the brake hose then plug it to prevent contamination right after you disconnect it

If it's

decided

on an exchange

basis,

to rebuild the calipers,

available before proceeding.

rebuild just

procedure which makes

make

this job quite sure a rebuild kit is

Always rebuild the calipers

in pairs -

never

one of them.

Removal Select the correct outer pad for the side of the vehicle you're working on by referring to the identification marks (see illustration). Remove the protective paper from the noise suppression gasket and install the pad on the caliper (see illustration). 27 Install the caliper on the steering knuckle and position the holddown spring under the steering knuckle abutment (see illustration 2.19). Caution: Don't damage the steering knuckle bushing seals when

26

you install the caliper. 28 Repeat Steps 1 8 through 27 for the other caliper. 29 Perform Steps 1 6 and 1 7 to complete the installation.

Refer to

illustration

3.2

Loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Remove the front wheels. 2 Note: Don't remove the brake hose from the caliper if you're only removing the caliper to gain access to other components. If you're removing the caliper for overhaul, remove the brake hose inlet fitting bolt and detach the hose (see illustration). Have a rag handy to catch spilled fluid and wrap a plastic bag tightly around the end of the hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination. 3 Remove the caliper guide pin(s) and detach the caliper from the 1

vehicle (see Section

3

Front disc brake caliper

-

removal, overhaul and installation

Overhaul Refer to

Warning: Dusf created by the brake system may contain asbestos, which is harmful to your health. Never blow it out with compressed air and don't inhale any of it. An approved filtehng mask should be worn when working on the brakes. Do not, under any circumstances, use petroleum-based solvents to clean brake parts. Use brake cleaner or clean brake fluid only!

an overhaul

Note:

If

plore

all

is

indicated (usually because of fluid leakage), ex-

options before beginning the job.

New and

factory rebuilt

2).

illustrations 3.6, 3.

7,

3.8, 3.9a, 3.9b, 3.9c, 3.9d, 3.

14

and 3. 15

4 Remove the brake pads (see Section 2). Clean the exterior of the caliper with brake system cleaner. Never 5 use gasoline, kerosene or petroleum-based cleaning solvents. Place the caliper on a clean workbench. 6 Position a wooden block or several shop rags in the caliper as a cushion, then use compressed air to remove the piston from the caliper (see illustration). Use only enough air pressure to ease the piston out of the bore. If the piston is blown out, even with the cushion in

9

1 5

,

Brakes

Chapter 9

9-6

3.7

Use a screwdriver to pry the dust boot out

of the

3.8

Remove the

cylinder bore

utensil

place,

it

piston seal with a

wood

pencil or a plastic eating

so you don't damage the bore and seal groove

may be damaged. Warning: Never place your in an attempt to catch or protect it when

of the piston

pressed air 7

-

fingers in front

applying com-

serious injury could result!

Carefully pry the dust boot out of the caliper bore (see illustra-

tion).

Using a wood or plastic tool, remove the piston seal from the groove in the caliper bore (see illustration). Metal tools may damage 8

the bore.

Remove the caliper bleeder screw. On double-pin calipers, move the bushing sleeves. Remove and discard the caliper (guide)

9

bushing(s) from the caliper ears. Discard

all

rubber parts (see

re-

pin

illustra-

tions).

Clean the remaining parts with brake system cleaner or new fluid then blow them dry with compressed air. 1 Carefully examine the piston for nicks, burrs and excessive wear If surface defects are present, the parts must be replaced. 12 Check the caliper bore in a similar way. Light polishing with crocus cloth is permissible to remove light corrosion and stains, but rus1 10

brake

require caliper replacement. reassembling the caliper, lubricate the bore and seal with clean brake fluid. Position the seal in the caliper bore groove - make or pitting

3.9a Grab the ends of the mounting pin bushings with needlenose pliers and push them through the caliper ears with a twisting motion

will

13

When

sure

it

isn't

twisted.

14 Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid, install it squarely in the bore and apply pressure to bottom it in the caliper (see illustration). Stretch the dust boot over the groove in the piston, then carefully 1

INBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

OUTBOARD SHOE ASSEMBLY

ADAPTER 3.9b

An exploded view

of a typical single-pin

Kelsey-Hayes caliper assembly

.CALIPER PIN

OP

BUSHING

DUST

BOOT

«C=3

SEAL

PISTON

CALIPER

CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLT

ADAPTER

9-7

Brakes

Chapter 9

PISTON SEAL

CAUPER

BUSHING

DUST SEAL

BLEEDER

SCREW

CAP

CALIPER GUIDE PIN BOLT

SLEEVE

__

BUSHING

3.9c An exploded view of a typical Kelsey-Hayes double-pin family caliper assembly (late design shown; earlier models use

ANTI RATTLE

three separate anti-rattle clips)

CLIP

/

SCREW SHOE ASSEMBLY (OUTBOARD)

BOLT

CAP

BLEEDER

SLEEVE

/

BUSHING

/

PISTON

SHOE ASSEMBLY (INBOARD)

BUSHING

BOOT

SEAL CALIPER

3.9d

An exploded view of a

typical double-pin

SLEEVE -WW-.-

BOLT

Kelsey-Hayes non-family caliper assembly

9

3.14

When you

install

the piston,

cocked as you push

it

make

into its

sure it doesn't become bore in the caliper

3.15

If

the correct seal driver tool isn't available, use a drift punch to tap around the edge until the dust boot is seated

7

9-8

Chapter 9

Brakes

Make

sure the lugs nuts are in place and evenly tightened, then measure the disc runout with a dial indicator

4.4a

4.4b Using a swirling motion, remove the glaze from the disc surface with sandpaper or emery cloth

MINIMUM THICKNESS MARKING

4.5a

The disc can be resurfaced by an automotive machine shop, provided the machining operation doesn't result in a disc thickness less than the minimum stamped on it

the caliper bore (see illustration).

seat

it

16

Install

the bleeder screw.

1

Install

new caliper pin bushings and make sure they're centered in On double-pin calipers, install the bushing sleeves and

in

their bores.

make

sure the bushings engage the sealing grooves

in

the sleeves.

4.5b Measure the disc thickness with a micrometer at several points around its circumference

4

Front brake disc

1

Loosen the wheel

curely on jackstands.

hold the disc

Installation 18

Inspect the caliper guide pin(s) for excessive corrosion. Replace if necessary.

19 Clean the caliper and caliper mounting bracket contact surfaces with a wire brush, then apply a thin film of high-temperature brake grease to them. 20 Install the brake pads and caliper (see Section 2). 21 Install the brake hose and inlet fitting bolt, using new copper washers, then tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications.

22

If

the line

Section

23

was disconnected, be sure

to bleed the brakes (see

9).

Install

inspection, removal

and

lug nuts, raise the vehicle

Remove

installation

and support

it

se-

the wheel and reinstall the lug nuts to

place.

Remove

the brake caliper (see Section 2). It's not necessary to disconnect the brake hose. After removing the caliper guide pin(s), 2

them

in

-

the wheels and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

the torque listed

24 After the job has been completed, firmly depress the brake pedal a few times to bring the pads into contact with the disc. 25 Check brake operation before driving the vehicle in traffic.

suspend the caliper out of the way with a piece of wire. Don't let the caliper hang by the hose and don't stretch or twist the hose. On all except double-pin non-family calipers, remove the outer brake pad.

Inspection Refer to

illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b,

4.5a and 4.5b

and other damage. and shallow grooves are normal after use and may not affect brake operation, but deep score marks over 0.015-inch require disc removal and refinishing by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to check both sides of the disc. If pulsating has been noticed during 3

Visually inspect the disc surface for scoring

Light scratches

application of the brakes, suspect disc runout. 4 To check disc runout, mount a dial indicator with the stem resting about 1/2-inch from the outer edge of the disc (see illustration). Set the indicator to zero and turn the disc. The indicator reading should not exceed the maximum allowable runout listed in this Chapter's Specifications. If it does, the disc should be refinished by an automotive ma-

Chapter 9

4.6a pull

the discs on your vehicle use retaining washers like this, off with a pair of needle-nose pliers and discard them

If

9-9

Brakes

When you remove the

disc, make sure you don't threads on the wheel studs

4.6b

them

AH ACHING

Remove the

5.2

symptoms

M

j

recommend resurfacing (to

of brai»7

GANG

DENOTES WIRE CONTINUES ELSEWHERE DENOTES WIRE GOES TO ONE OF TWO

FUSES WITH BUSS BAR

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CAPACITOR

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electrical

system

12-29

Index About

this manual, 0-5 Accelerator cable - replacement, 4-6 Air cleaner housing - removal and installation, 4-6 Air conditioning system check and maintenance, 3-12 compressor removal and installation, 3-13 condenser removal and installation, 3-14 evaporator removal and installation, 3-15 filter-drier, removal and installation, 3-13 Air suspension systems - general information, 10-12 Airbag system

check, 1-31

Airbag system - general information, 12-16 Alternator - removal and installation, 5-10 Alternator brushes - replacement, 5-10 Antenna - removal and installation, 12-13 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) - general information, 9-17 Antifreeze general information, 3-2

Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor (multi-point EFI) - check, removal and installation, 4-18 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor (single-point EFI) - check, removal and installation, 4-15 Automatic transaxle, 7-1 through 7-7 band adjustment (three-speed models only, 1-31 diagnosis, general, 7-2 fluid

and

filter

fluid level

change, 1-31

check, 1-10

general information, 7-1 - description, check and adjustment, 7-3 neutral start and back-up light switch - check and adjustment, 7-4 removal and installation, 7-5 shift cable, check and adjustment, 7-2

Ignition switch/shifter interlock

throttle

pressure cable or rod adjustment, 7-2

Automotive chemicals and lubricants, 0-16

B Balljoints

-

check and replacement, 10-8

Battery - check and replacement, 5-2 check, maintenance and charging, 1-13 removal and installation, 5-2

cables

Body, 11-1 through 11-18 bumpers removal and installation, 11-7 center console removal and installation, 11-12 cowl cover removal and installation, 11-17

dashboard panel removal and installation, 11-14 door latch, lock cylinder and outside handle removal and installation, 11-9 removal, installation and adjustment, 1 1 -9 window glass removal, installation and adjustment, 11-10 window regulator removal and installation, 11-11 trim panel removal and installation, 11-8 engine drivebelt and wheelhouse splash shield removal, 11-17 front fender removal and installation, 11-6 general information, 11-1

hood latch and cable removal and installation, 11-6 hood removal, installation and adjustment, 11-3 instrument cluster bezel removal and installation, 11-14 maintenance, 11-1 mirrors removal and installation, 11-17 radiator grille removal and installation, 1 repair, major damage, 11-3 repair,

minor damage,

1 1

1

-6

-2

seat removal and installation, 11-18 steering

trunk

lid

column cover removal and installation, 11-16 removal, installation and adjustment, 11-13

maintenance, 1 1 -2 windshield and fixed glass replacement, 11-3 vinyl trim

Booster battery (jump) starting, 0-15 Brake hydraulic system - bleeding, 9-17 Brake system check, 1-28 fluid level

check, 1-6

Brakes, 9-1 through 9-22 Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) - general information, 9-17 front brake disc inspection, removal and installation, 9-8 front disc brake caliper removal, overhaul and installation, 9-5 general information, 9-2

hoses and lines - inspection and replacement, 9-16 hydraulic system bleeding, 9-17 light switch check and replacement, 9-21 master cylinder - removal and installation, 9-15 pads - replacement, front, 9-2 pads - replacement, rear, 9-9 parking brake adjustment, 9-18 parking brake cables - removal and installation, 9-19 parking brake shoes (rear disc brake models) - removal, 9-19 power brake booster check, removal and installation, 9-19 shoes (rear) - replacement, 9-10 wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and installation, 9-14 Bulb replacement, 12-11 Bumpers - removal and installation, 11-7 Buying parts, 0-8

1

1

1

1

IND-2

Charging system alternator brushes, replacement, 5-10

removal and check, 5-10 alternator,

installation,

and

2A-14

Control arm - removal, inspection and installation, 10-6 Cooling system check, 1-24 coolant reservoir removal and installation, 3-3 fan, check and replacement, 3-4 general information, 3-2 radiator, removal and installation, 3-6 servicing (draining, flushing and refilling), 1-29 thermostat, check and replacement, 3-2 water pump, check, 3-7 water pump, replacement, 3-7 Cooling, heating and air conditioning, 3-1 through 3-15 Cowl cover - removal and installation, 11-17 Cruise control system - description and check, 12-17

Driveaxle boot check, 1-33 Driveaxles, 8-1 through 8-14 constant velocity (CV) joint boots, replacement, 8-1 constant velocity (CV) joints, disassembly, inspection and reassembly, 8-6 general information and inspection, 8-2

intermediate shaft (1991 and 1992 3.3L and 3.8L models, removal and installation, 8-5 installation,

Electrical troubleshooting

8-4

-

and replacement, 1-19

general information, 12-2

Emissions control systems aspirator system, 6-21

catalytic converter,

2A-6

number one

for

piston locating, 2A-3

valve cover removal and installation, 2A-3

Chassis electrical system, 12-1 through 12-18 Chassis lubrication, 1-15 Chemicals, 0-16 Circuit breakers - general information, 12-3 Constant velocity (CV) joint boots - replacement, 8-1 Constant velocity (CV) joints - disassembly, inspection, 8-6

Drivebelt check, adjustment

installation,

Top Dead Center (TDC)

voltage regulator, general information, 5-13

6-22

evaporative emissions control system, 6-16

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 6-19 general information, 6-2 inlet air

installation,

pump

repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle, 2A-2 timing belt and sprockets, removal, inspection

5-10

general information and precautions, 5-9

removal and

pan removal and

removal, inspection and installation, 2A-16 rear main oil seal replacement, 2A-18

oil

heated

1

Index oil

air

1

1

system (single-point EFI systems

only),

6-18

information sensors, check and replacement, 6-8

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system, 6-15 diagnosis system, description and code access, 6-8 Single Module Engine Controller (SMEC)/Single Board Positive

valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement, 2A-20 Engine (3.0L V6) camshaft and bearing surfaces, inspection, 2B-19 camshaft oil seal, replacement, 28-16 camshaft(s), removal and installation, 2B-19 crankshaft front oil seal, replacement, 2B-16 crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, removal and installation, 28-10 cylinder head(s), removal and installation, 28-18 exhaust manifolds, removal and installation, 28-8 hydraulic lash adjusters, check, removal and installation, 28-6 intake manifold, removal and installation, 28-7 mount check and replacement, 28-24 oil pan, removal and installation, 28-20 oil pump, removal, inspection and installation, 28-21 repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle, 28-2 rocker arm components, removal and installation, 28-5 timing belt, removal, installation and adjustment, 28-1 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number one piston, locating, 28-3 valve covers, removal and installation, 28-4 valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement, 28-18 Engine (3.3Ly3.8L V6) camshaft installation, 2D-28 camshaft and bearings, removal and inspection, 2D-14 crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, removal and installation, 2C-9 cylinder head(s), removal and installation, 2C-7 exhaust manifold(s), removal and installation, 2C-6 flywheel/driveplate removal and installation, 2C-13 hydraulic roller lifters, removal, inspection and installation, 2C-8 intake manifold, removal and installation, 2C-4 mount check and replacement, 2C-14 oil pan removal and installation, 2C-1 oil pump removal, check and installation, 2C-12 rear main oil seal replacement, 2C-14 repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle, 2C-2 rocker arms and pushrods, removal, inspection, 2C-3 timing chain and sprockets, inspection, removal and installation, 2C-11 timing chain cover, removal and installation, 2C-10 Top Dead Center (TDC) for number 1 piston, locating, 2C-2 valve covers, removal and installation, 2C-3 valve springs, retainers and seals, replacement, 2C-4 Engine overhaul procedures block, cleaning, 2D-18 block, inspection, 2D-19 crankshaft, inspection, 2D-22 crankshaft, installation and main bearing oil clearance check, 2D-26 crankshaft, removal, 2D-17 cylinder compression check, 2D-6 cylinder head, cleaning, 2D-1

self

Engine Controller

Engine (2.5L four-cylinder) camshaft and hydraulic lash adjusters/rocker arms, inspection and installation, 2A-1 camshaft oil seal replacement, 2A-9 counterbalance shaft removal and installation, 2D-16 crankshaft front oil seal replacement, 2A-10 cylinder head removal and installation, 2A-13 flywheel/driveplate removal and installation, 2A-18 intake/exhaust manifold removal and installation, 2A-5 intermediate shaft oil seal replacement, 2A-10

cylinder head, disassembly,

2D-10

cylinder head, inspection, 2D-1 cylinder head, reassembly, cylinder honing,

2D-13

2D-20

disassembly sequence, 2D-9 general information, 2D-5 start-up and break-in after overhaul, 2D-30 main and connecting rod bearings, inspection, 2D-23 overhaul reassembly sequence, 2D-24 overhaul, general information, 2D-5 piston, ring installation, 2D-24 pistons and connecting rods installation and rod bearing, 2D-28 pistons and connecting rods, inspection, 2D-21 initial

1

IND-3

Index pistons and connecting rods, removal, 2D-15 rear main oil seal installation, 2D-28 removal and installation, 2D-7

General engine overhaul procedures, 2D-1 through 2D-30

removal, methods and precautions, 2D-7

2D-13 Engine electrical systems, 12-1 through 12-16 Engine Identification Number (EIN), 0-6 valves, servicing,

Engine(general) oil level check, 1-6 oil and filter change,

H Headlight adjustment, 12-10

1

replacement, 12-10 switch removal and

-1

rebuilding alternatives,

2D-8

Evaporative emissions control system check, 1-33 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system, 6-19 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system check, 1-22 check, 1-24

4-25

,

Front brake disc - inspection, removal and installation, 9-8 Front disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation, 9-5 Front disc brake pads - replacement, 9-2 Front end alignment - general information, 10-20 Fuel and exhaust systems, 4-1 through 4-26 general information, 4-2 Fuel injector(s) (multi-point EFI)

and

installation,

assembly (multi-point Fuel system

check

inlet air

I

system

check, 5-3 coil

-

check and replacement, 5-4 removal and installation, 5-6

distributor,

general information, 5-3 -

check, removal

check and replacement, 12-7 pick-up assembly replacement, 5-8 ignition switch

4-22

rail

-

inlet air

Ignition

Fuel pressure relief procedure, 4-2 Fuel

12-12

system (single-point EFI systems only), 6-18 system check, 1-23 Heater and air conditioner blower motor - removal, 3-10 Heater core - removal and installation, 3-12 Heater or heater/air conditioner control assembly - removal, 3-9 Heater/air conditioner assembly - removal and installation, 3-11 Hinges and locks - maintenance, 11-3 Heated Heated

Exhaust system servicing, general information,

installation,

Headlight dimmer switch (models without airbags) and replacement, 12-4

EFI)

timing check and adjustment (four-cylinder and 3.0L -

removal and

installation,

4-19

accelerator cable, replacement, 4-6 air

cleaner housing, removal and installation, 4-6

air

intake

plenum {V6 engines), removal and installation, 4-18 Idle Speed (AIS) motor (multi-point EFI) - check, removal

engines only), 1-29 Instrument cluster - removal and installation, 12-14 Instrument cluster bezel - removal and installation, 11-14 Instrument panel - removal and installation, 12-15 Introduction, 0-5

Automatic

and

installation,

Automatic

and

Idle

4-18

Speed

installation,

(AIS)

motor (single-point

EFI),

check, removal

4-15

J

check, 1-24

Jacking, 0-15

replacement, 1-16

filter

fuel injection fuel injection

system check, 4-12 system general information, 4-8

fuel injector (single-point EFI),

check, removal and

fuel injector(s) (multi-point EFI),

and

installation,

installation,

4-14

check, removal

Lubricants, 0-16

4-22

pressure regulator (single-point and installation, 4-13

fuel

EFI),

check, removal

assembly (multi-point EFI), removal and installation, 4-19 and fittings, replacement, 4-7 pressure damper (3.3L and 3.8L V6 engines), removal and installation, 4-24 pressure regulator (multi-point EFI), removal and installation, 4-23

fuel

rail

lines

M Maintenance schedule, 1-5 Maintenance techniques, 0-8

tank cleaning and repair, general information, 4-6 tank, removal and installation, 4-4 throttle body injection mounting bolt check, 1-23 throttle throttle throttle

body (multi-point EFI), removal and installation, 4-16 body (single-point EFI), removal and installation, 4-13 body temperature sensor (single-point EFI), check, removal

4-16 Sensor (TPS) (multi-point EFI), check, removal and installation, 4-17 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (single-point EFI) - check, removal and installation, 4-15 Fuses - general information, 12-2 Fusible links - general information, 12-3

and

models

Multi-function switch (airbag equipped

pressure relief procedure, 4-2 pump, removal and installation, 4-5 pump/pressure check, 4-2

only)

-

check

and replacement, 12-8

N Neutral start and back-up light switch and replacement, 7-4

-

check

installation,

Throttle Position

Parking brake

-

adjustment, 9-18

Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve check and, 1-21 Power door lock system - description and check, 12-16 Positive

Power

steering fluid level check, 1-10

IND-4

Index

Power steering pump - removal and installation, 10-17 Power steering system - bleeding, 10-19 Power window system - description and check, 12-16

body temperature sensor (single-point EFI) - check, removal and installation, 4-16 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (multi-point EFI) - check, removal Throttle

Pump

and

removal and installation, 4-5 water, removal and installation, 3-7

4-17

- check, removal 4-15 Throttle pressure cable or rod (automatic transaxle) - adjustment, 7-2 Tie-rod ends - removal and installation, 10-14 Tire and tire pressure checks, 1 -9 Tire rotation, 1-15 Towing, 0-15 Track bar assembly - removal and installation, 10-11 Transaxle, automatic, 7-1 through 7-7 band adjustment (three-speed models only, 1-31

and

Radio and speakers - removal and installation, 12-12 Rear air spring removal and installation, 10-9 Rear axle assembly - removal and installation, 10-12 Rear brake disc - removal, inspection and installation, 9-10 Rear disc brake caliper - removal, overhaul and installation, 9-10 Rear disc brake pads - replacement, 9-9 Rear spindle - inspection, removal and installation, 10-11 Rear wheel bearing check, repack and adjustment, 1-26 Rear window defogger - check and repair, 12-17 Relays - general information, 12-3

Safe automotive repair practices, 0-17 Seat belt check, 1-34 Seats - removal and installation, 11-18 Self diagnosis system - description and code access, 6-8 Shift cable (automatic transaxle) check and adjustment, 7-2

Spark plug check and replacement, 1-16 Spark plug wire, distributor cap and rotor check and replacement, 1-17 Speedometer cable - removal and installation, 12-15 Speedometer drive pinion - removal and installation, 7-5 Stabilizer bar - removal and installation, 10-5 Starting system general information and precautions, 5-14 starter motor assembly removal and installation, 5-14 starter

installation,

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (single-point EFI)

fuel,

installation,

diagnosis, general, 7-2 fluid

and

fluid level

change, 1-31 check, 1-10

filter

general information, 7-1 - description, check and adjustment, 7-3 neutral start and back-up light switch - check and adjustment, 7-4 removal and installation, 7-5 shift cable, check and adjustment, 7-2

Ignition switch/shifter interlock

throttle

pressure cable or rod adjustment, 7-2

Troubleshooting, 0-19 Trunk lid - removal, installation and adjustment, 11-13 Tune-up and routine maintenance, 1 through 34 Tune-up general information, 1-6

Turn signal and hazard flashers - check and replacement, 12-4 Turn signal/hazard warning switch (models without airbags) check and replacement, 12-5

u Underhood hose check and replacement, 1 -22 Upholstery and carpets - maintenance, 11-2

motor in-vehicle check, 5-14

assembly replacement, 5-14 replacement, 10-15

starter motor/solenoid/gear reduction

Steering gear boots Steering system check, 1 -26

power power

steering

-

pump

Vehicle Identification removal and

installation,

and installation, 10-15 and hub removal, inspection, 10-7 steering wheel removal and installation, 10-14 tie-rod end removal and installation, 10-14 Strut - replacement, 10-4 Suspension system air suspension systems general information, 10-12 balljoint check and replacement, 10-8 steering gear removal

check, 1-26

arm removal, inspection and installation, 10-6 and installation, 10-9 rear axle assembly removal and installation, 10-12 rear shock absorbers and coil springs removal, inspection, 10-8 rear spindle inspection, removal and installation, 10-11 stabilizer bar removal and installation, 10-5 strut assembly removal and installation, 10-3

control

rear air spring removal

replacement, 10-4

track bar assembly removal and installation, 10-11

Throttle Throttle

body body

(multi-point EFI)

-

(single-point EFI)

removal and installation, 4-16 removal and installation, 4-13

-

(ViN),

0-6

10-17

steering system bleeding, 10-19

steering knuckle

strut

Number

w Water pump - removal and installation, 3-7 Wheels and tires - general information, 10-20 Windshield wiper motor check and replacement, 12-14 wiper/washer switch (models without airbags) check and replacement, 12-6 Wiper blade inspection and replacement, 1-11 Wiring diagrams - general information, 12-17

,

HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE MANUALS NOTE: New manuals are added to

on a periodic basis. If you do not see a listing Haynes dealer for the latest product information.

this list

consult your local

ACURA '1776

'1628

Integra

a Legend all models

Corsica/Beretta all models '87 thru '92 Corvette all V8 models '68 thru '82 Corvette all models '84 thru '91 Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual

274 '86 thru '90

*1336

1762 704

AMC

all

626 241 *1642

AUDI

models, '85 thru '92 Pick-ups '67 thru '87 - Chevrolet & GMC, all V8 & in-line 6 cyl, 2WD & 4WD '67 thru '87; Suburbans, Blazers & Jimmys '67 thru '91 Pick-ups '88 thru '93 - Chevrolet & GMC, all full-size (C and K) models, '88 thm '93

420

4000 5000 5000

615 428 1117

all all all

models models models

'80 thru '87 '77 thru '83 '84 thru '88

'1664 *831

AUSTIN

*1

Healey Sprite Roadster (265)

-

MG Midget

see

727

*345

S-10 & GMC S-15 Pick-ups all models '82 thm '92 Sprint & Geo Metro '85 thm '91 Vans - Chevrolet & GMC, V8 & in-line 6 cylinder models '68 thm '92

BMW

788 '880

268 1763 789 '2046 '2021

560 334 754

773

CHRYSLER 3/5 Series not Including diesel or all-wheel drive models '82 thru '92 3201 all 4 cyl models '75 thru '83 528i & 530i all models '75 thm '80 1500 thru 2002 all models except

276 632 240

'2058

2500, 2800, 3.0

thm

'93

Laser - see DODGE Daytona (1 140) Chrysler & Plymouth Mid-size wheel drive '82 thm '93

*1337

&

Bavaria

'69 thru '76

DATSUN BUICK Century

(front

wheel

GENERAL MOTORS

drive) (829)

-

see

Buick, Oldsmobite & Pontiac Full-size (Front wheel drive) all models '85 thru '93 Buicl( Electra, LeSabre and Park Avenue; Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale, Ninety Eight and Regency; Pontiac Bonneville Buick Oldsmobile & Pontiac Full-size (Rear wlieel drive) Buick Estate '70 thru '90, Electra'70 thru '84, LeSabre '70 thru '85, Limited '74 thru '79 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser '70 thm '90, Delta 88 '70 thru •85,Ninety-ei9ht '70 thru '84 Pontiac Bonneville '70 thru '81 Catalina '70 thru '81 Grandville '70 thru '75, Parisienne '83 thru '86

*1627

1551

& Century all rear-drive models with V6, V8 and Turbo '74 thru '87 Regal - see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Skytiawk - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Skylark all X-car models '80 thru '85 Skylark '86 on - see GENERAL

679 123 430 372 277

all models '78 thm '82 510 & PL521 Pick-up '68 thm '73 510 all models '78 thm '81 61 all models '72 thm '76 620 Series Pick-up all models '73 thm '79 720 Series Pick-up - see NISSAN (771) 810/Maxima all gasoline models, '77 thm '84 F1 all models '76 thm '79 Pulsar - see NISSAN (876) Sentra - see NISSAN (982) Stanza - see NISSAN (981)

Mid-size Regal

552

MOTORS (1420) Somerset - see GENERAL

MOTORS (1420)

Cadillac Rear Wheel Drive all gasoline models '70 thnj '92 Cimarron - see GENERAL MOTORS (766)

•723 •1231

236 610

M668

CAPRI

234

2000 MK Coupe all models '71 thru '75 Mercury Capri - see FORD Mustang (654) I

CHEVROLET •1477

Astro

& CMC

Safari Mini-vans '85 thru '93

625

Camaro V8 all models '70 thru '81 Camaro all models '82 thru '92 Cavalier - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Celebrity - see GENERAL MOTORS (829) Chevelle, Malibu & El Camino all V6 &

449 550

V8 models '69 thru '87 Chevette & Pontiac T1000 '76 thru Citation all models '80 thru '85

554 866

'

Listings shiown with

an asterisk

(')

Haynes North America,

•1026 •1421 '1418

'78

31

•1140 •545 •912 •556 •1726 •1779 •349

1338 '1725 •344

•829

•766

1420 •1671

Caravan & Plymouth Voyager Mini-Vans all models '84 thm '93 Challenger & Plymouth Saporro all models '78 thm '83

•2035

Challenger •67-'76 - see DODGE Dart (234) Colt all models '71 thm '77 Colt & Plymouth Champ (front wheel drive) all models '78 thm '87 Dakota Pick-ups all models '87 thm '93 Dart, Challenger/Plymouth Barracuda & Valiant 6 cyl models '67 thm '76 Daytona & Chrysler Laser '84 thm '89 Omni & Plymouth Horizon '78 thm '90 Pick-ups all full-size models '74 thm '91 Ram 50/D50 Pick-ups & Raider and Plymouth Arrow Pick-ups '79 thm '93 Shadow & Plymouth Sundance '87 thm '93 Spirit & Plymouth Acclaim '89 thm '92

'2039

Newbury

Mustang II 4 cyl, V6 & V8 models '74 thm Pinto & Mercury Bobcat '75 thm '80 Probe all models '89 thm '92

Buick Century, Chevrolet Celebrity, Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera & Pontiac 6000 models 82 thm '93 Buick Skyhawk, Cadillac Cimarron, Chevrolet Cavalier, Oldsmobile Firenza ft Pontiac J-2000 ft Sunbird all models '82 thm '92 Buick Skylark ft Somerset, Oldsmobile Calais & Pontiac Grand Am all models '85 thm '91 Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme & Pontiac Grand Prix all front wheel drive models '88 thm '90 Chevrolet Lumina APV, Oldsmobile Silhouette ft Pontiac Trans Sport eill models '90 thru '92

Metro - see CHEVROLET Sprint (1727) Prizm - see CHEVROLET Nova (1642) all models '90 thm '93 Tracker - see SUZUKI Samurai (1626)

Storm

Safari

-

ft

see CHEVROLET ASTRO (1477) Pick-ups - see CHEVROLET

(420, 831, 345, 1664)

(Continued on other side)

Park,

'78

Ranger/Bronco II gasoline models '83 thm '93 Taurus & Mercury Sable '86 thm '92 Tempo & Mercury Topaz all gasoline models '84 thm '93 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '83 thm '88 Thunderbird/Mercury Cougar '89 and '90 Vans all V8 Econoline models '69 thm '91

Vans

see Mitsubishi Eclipse (2097)

861 Lawrence Drive,

models

GMC

model coverage as of this printing. These titles will be periodically updated Haynes dealer for more information.

Inc.,

all

including Turbo. Mustang, '79 thm '92; Capri, '79 thm '86 Mustang V8 all models '64-1 /2 thm '73

GEO

Vans - Dodge & Plymouth V8 & 6 cyl models '71 thm '91

-

Versailles ('75 thru '86)

Mustang & Mercury Capri

all

400 & 600 - see CHRYSLER Mid-size (1337) Aries & PlymoutK Reliant '81 thm '89

Talon

Ford LTD Crown Victoria & Mercury Gran Marquis ('83 thm '87) Granada & Mercury Monarch a\\ in-line, 6 cyl & V8 models '75 thm '80 Ford & Mercury Mid-size, Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar ('75 thm '82); Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis ('83 thm '86);

GENERAL MOTORS

EAGLE

'87

indicate

649 1670

DODGE

CADILLAC *751

231

200SX all models '77 thm '79 200SX all models '80 thm '83 B - 21 all models '73 thm '78 210 all models '78 thm '82 240Z, 260Z & 280Z Coupe '70 thru 280ZX Coupe & 24-2 '79 thm '83 300ZX - see NISSAN (1 137)

,

627

357

402 647 228 525 206 563

376 368

'78

Aerostar Mini-vans all models '86 thm '92 Bronco and Pick-ups '73 thm '79 Bronco and Pick-ups '80 thm '91 Courier Pick-up all models '72 thm '82 Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Escort/Mercury Lynx all models '81 thm '90 Escort/Mercury Tracer '91 thm '93 Explorer & Mazda Navajo '91 thm '92 Fairmont & Mercury Zephyr '78 thm '83 Fiesta all models '77 thm '80 Ford & Mercury Full-size, Ford LTD & Mercury Marquis ('75 thm '82); Ford Custom 500, Country Squire, Crown Victoria & Mercury Colony Park ('75 thm '87);

XR-7 & Lincoln '654

models

all

thm

Ford Torino,Grcin Torino, Elite, Ranchero pick-up, LTD II, Mercury Montego, Comet,

front

TurtJO '59 thru '77

348

Full-size Front-Wheel Drive '88 K-Cars - see DOCXSE Aries (723)

'68

FORD •1476

359 '2020

124 Sport Coupe & Spider X1/9 all models '74 thm '80

094 273

Lumina - see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Lumina APV - see GENERAL MOTORS (2035) Luv Pick-up all 2WD & 4WD '72 thru '82 Monte Cario all models '70 thru '88 Nova all V8 models '69 thru '79 Nova and Geo Prizm all front wheel drive

31 9

'83 thru '87

models

FIAT

Full-size Sedans Caprice, Impala, BIscayne, Bel Air & Wagons '69 thru '90

Jeep CJ - see JEEP (412) Mid-size models, Concord, Hornet, Gremlin & Spirit '70 thru '83 (Renault) Alliance & Encore

for your vetiicle,

to include later

model years

CA 91320 • (805)

-

consult your

498-6703

HAYNES AUTOMOTIVE MANUALS NOTE: New manuals

are

added

HONDA 2067 160 633 297 1227

Civic

•601

basis.

Haynes dealer for the

If

you do not see a

latest

all

Prelude

models

CVCC

1137 •1341 *771

876 •982 '981

listing for your vehicle,

product information.

NISSAN

Accord CVCC all models 76 thru '83 Accord all models '84 thru '89 Accord all models '90 thm '93 Civic 1200 all models '73 ttim '79 Civic 1300 & 1500 CVCC '80 thm '83 Civic 1 500 CVCC all models '75 thru '79

351 1221

on a periodic

to this list

consult your local

SAAB

300ZX all models including TuttM '84 thm '89 Maxima all models '85 thm '91

247 •980

99 all models including TurtX) '69 thm '80 900 all models including Turtx) '79 thm '88

Pick-ups/Pathfinder gas models '80 thm '93 Pulsar all models '83 thm '86

Sentra all models Stanza all models

'82 '82

thm thm

SUBARU

'90 '90

237

'84 thru '91 all models '79 thru '89

& 1600 '71 thm '79 800 2W0 & 4WD '80 thm '89

1100, 1300, 1400

•681

1

600 &

1

OLDSMOBILE HYUNDAI '1552

Excel

models

all

Bravada

SUZUKI

Calais

'1626

- see CHEVROLET S-10 (831) see GENERAL MOTORS (1420) Custom Cruiser - see BUICK Full-size

'86 thru '93

-

Samurai/Sidekick and Geo Tracker all models '86 thm '93

RWD (1551) '658

ISUZU •1641

XJ6 all 6 cyl models '68 thru '86 XJ12 & XJS all 1 2 cyl models '72

412

thm

'88

Delta 88 Royale

-

see

BUICK Full-size

RWD (1551) Firenza - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Ninety-eight Regency - see BUICK Full-size

RWD (1551), FWD (1627) Cherokee, Comanche & Wagoneer Limited models '84 thai '93 CJ all models '49 thru '86 Wrangler all models '87 thru '92

Ninety-eight Regency Brougham - see BUICK Full-size RWD (1551) Omega - see PONTIAC Phoenix (551) Silhouette - see GENERAL MOTORS (2035)

all

•1777

'74

FWD (1551), RWD (1627) thru '85

JEEP •1553

standard gasoline V6 &

all

Cutlass Ciera - see GENERAL MOTORS (829) Cutlass Supreme - see GM (1671) Delta 88 - see BUICK Full-size RWD (1551) Delta 88 Brougham - see BUICK Full-size

JAGUAR •242 •478

Cutlass

V8 models

&

Piclc-up, all gasoline models Pick-up, '81 thru '93; Trooper, '84 thru '91

Trooper

TOYOTA Camry

1023 150 935 •2038 1 139

models '83 thm '91 Sedan all models '71 thm '74 Rear Wheel Drive '71 thm '85 Front Wheel Drive '86 thm '92 Supra all models '79 thm '92 Corolla all models '75 thm '79 Cor«>lla all rear wtieel drive models '80 thm '87 Corolla all front wheel drive models '84 thm '92 Corolla Tercel all models '80 thm '82 Corona all models '74 thm '82 Cressida all models '78 thm '82 Land Cruiser all models '68 thm '82 MK II all 6 cyl models '72 thm '76 MR2 all models '85 thm '87 Pick-up all models '69 thm '78 Pick-up all models '79 thm '92 Previa all models '91 thm '93

361 961 '1025

636 360 532 313 200 •1339

LADA

304

PEUGEOT

& 1600 all models

1200, 1300. 1500

663

including Riva "74 thru '91

MAZDA 648 '1082

267 370 757 •2047

460 •1419

504

all

diesel

models

'74

thm

•656 •2048

'83

TRIUMPH

PLYMOUTH

626 Sedan & Coupe (rear wheel drive) all models '79 thm '82 626 & MX-6 (front wheel drive) all models '83 thm '91 B Series Pick-ups '72 thm '93 GLC Hatchback (rear wheel drive) all models '77 thm '83 GLC (front wheel drive) '81 thm '85 MPV all models '89 thm '93 RX-7 all models '79 thm '85 RX-7 all models '86 thm '91

1 1

Laser - see MITSUBISHI Eclipse (2097) For other PLYMOUTH titles, see DODGE listing.

GT6 &

2

113 322

190 Series

all

& Karmann Ghia cill models '54 thm '79 Dasher all gasoline models '74 thm '81 Beetle

T1000 - see CHEVROLET Chevette (449) J-2000 - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) 6000 - see GENERAL MOTORS (829) Bonneville

Bonneville

-

238 '884

Rabbit, Jetta, Scirocco,

see Buick Full-size

models

gasoline models, '84

346

thm

'88

230, 250 & 280 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster 6 cyl sohc models '68 thm '72 280 123 Series gasoline models '77 thm '81 350 & 450 Sedan, Coupe & Roadster all

983 698

all

697

models

'71

thm

1232 555 867

Turtx) '76

thm

'85

551

See FOftD

Brougham - see Buick

Catalina - see Buick Full-size (1551) Fiero all models '84 thm '88 Firebird V8 models except Turtx) '70 thm

082 226 '81

Firebird all models '82 thm '92 Full-size Rear Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size (1551) Full-size Front Wheel Drive - see BUICK Oldsmobile, Pontiac Full-size FWD (1627) - see GENERAL MOTORS (1420) Grand Grand Prix - see GENERAL MOTORS (1671) Grandville - see BUICK Full-size (1551) Parisienne - see BUICK Full-size (1551) Phoenix & Oldsmobile Omega all X-car

Roadster & GT Coupe models '62 thm '80 MG Midget & Austin Healey Sprite Roadster '58 thm '80

'264

239 397

Cordia, Tredia, Galant, Precis '83

thm

'1027

&

'

141

079 097 768

Marina 1.8 all models '71 thm '78 Minor 1000 sedan & wagon '56 thm '71

shown

with

updated

924 944

all all

models Including Turtx) models Including Turtx)

'76

'83

thm thm

'82 '89

RENAULT

(Austin)

Listings

91 1 all Coupe & Targa models except Turbo & Can-era 4 '65 thm '89 914 all 4 cyl models '69 thm '76

'93

Pick-up & Montero '83 thm '93 Eclipse, Eagle Talon & Plymouth Laser '90 thm '94

MORRIS 074 024

an

thm

'92

diesel

models thm Transporter 1600 all models '68 thm '79 Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 all models '72 thm '79 Type 3 1500 & 1600 all models '63 thm '73 Vanagon all air-cooled models '80 thm '83

VOLVO 203 129 '270

400 '1550

1479 1654 1667 1480

PORSCHE

MITSUBISHI Mirage

& Pick-up gas

Convertible '80

& 1800 Sports '61 thm '73 models '66 thm '74 all models '74 thm '90 ail models '75 thm '82 & 7P0 Series all models '82 thm '88

120, 130 Series

140 240 260 740

Series Series Series

all

SPECIAL MANUALS

MGB all

•2022 •2097

&

models '80 thm '84 Sunbird - see GENERAL MOTORS (766) Trans Sport - see GENERAL MOTORS (2035)

Listing

MG

'1669

084 1029

'91

& Pick-up all '84

'77

Am

MERCURY

thm

RWD

'80

Diesel 123 Series 200D, 2200, 240D, 240TD, 300D, 300CD, 300TD, 4- & 5-cyl incl.

'74

Rabbit, Jetta

Full-size (1551)

four-cylinder

'74

vw

PONTIAC

MERCEDES-BENZ

all

all models '62 thm all models '62 thm '81 models '75 thm '81

Vitesse

Spitfire

TR7

FWD (1627), RWD (1551) '1643

all

Carina Celica Celica Celica

asterisk

(')

to include later

081

5 Le Car all models '76 thm '83 8 & 10 58.4 cu in engines '62 thm

'72

2 Saloon & Estate 1 289 cc engine '70 thm '80 5 & 1 7 all models '73 thm '79 16 89.7 cu in & 95.5 cu in engines '65 thm '72 Alliance & Encore - see AMC (934) 1

1

indicate model coverage as of this phnting. These titles will be periodically model years - consult your Haynes dealer for more information.

Haynes North America,

Inc.,

861 Lawrence Drive,

Newbury

Park,

1762 1 736 1 763 482 2069 1666 299 393 300

Automotive Body Repair & Painting Manual Automotive Electrical Manual Automotive Emissions Control Manual Automotive Heating & Air Conditioning Manual Chevrolet Engine Overhaul Manual GM and Ford Diesel Engine Repair Manual Ford Engine Overhaul Manual Fuel Injection Manual Holley Carburetor Manual Small Engine Repair Manual SU Carburetors thm '88 Weber Carburetors thm '79 Zenith/Stromt>erg CD Carburetors thm '76

Over 100 Haynes motorcycle manuals also available

CA 91320 • (805) 498-6703

CARBON DEPOSITS

NORMAL

Symptoms: Dry

Symptoms: Brown

sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard

starting

and

hesitation.

Recommendation: Check

for

tan color

and

to grayishslight electrode

wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions.

cleaner, high float

Recommendation: When new

choke and worn ignition points. Use a spark plug with a longer core nose for

spark plugs are installed', replace with plugs of the same heat range.

a clogged

air

level, sticky

greater anti-fouling protection.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms:

OIL DEPOSITS

Symptoms: caused by poor

Oily

coating

control. Oil

oil

leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the

Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil and/or fuel addi-

is

combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesition.

Recommendation:

Correct

the mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

TOO HOT Symptoms: sulator,

absence

Blistered, white

of deposits. Results in life.

Recommendation: Check

for

the correct plug heat range,

over-advanced

ignition timing,

lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks and sticking valves. Check the coolant level and make sure the radiator is not clogged.

the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration.

Recommendation:

exces-

prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

WORN Symptoms:

Rounded

poor

fuel

economy.

Recommendation: with new plugs of

DETONATION

engine

Replace the

same

heat range.

Symptoms:

electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be dirty due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion

elec-

trodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and

PREIGNITION

to

If

sive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to

Symptoms: Melted

chamber. Can lead damage.

may

mask

in-

eroded electrode and

shortened plug

Excessive amounts

tives.

Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip.

Can

lead to piston

damage. for

Recommendation: Make sure

the correct plug heat range,

the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

Recommendation: Check over-advanced

ignition timing,

lean fuel mixture, clogged cooling system and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms:

Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion

chamber temperatures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high

speeds.

Recommendation:

Install

new

plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

de-

posits lodge between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the elec-

trode gap. The plug ceases to resulting in inder.

fire,

a dead

Recommendation: Locate

cyl-

trodes.

After long periods misfiring, deposits can

loosen when normal combustemperature is restored by an overdue tune-up. At high speeds, deposits flake off the piston and are thrown against the hot insulator, causing mistion

firing.

Recommendation: Replace the plugs with new ones or clean and reinstall the originals.

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object

in

the

combus-

tion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston

damage. the

and remove the deposits from between the elec-

faulty plug

of

MECHANICAL DAMAGE

GAP BRIDGING Symptoms: Combustion

SPLASHED DEPOSITS Symptoms:

Recommendation:

Remove

the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

Every m^hual based qn a complete teardovyn and rebuild!

L

Haynes mechanic, author and photographer with 199^Qirysler

Md^ls covered b^liis manual: All f uif-size

front-wheel

drfv*e

models

New Yorker

.

a

Chrysler New Yorker {V6 engine), Imperial, Fpth Avenye (1990 thru 1993), LeBar^on Landau & Sedan (1990 thru 1993), ip)dge Dyr>3sty * Does hot cover turbo models LeBaron Coupe, Convertible arid GTS models cow^^gd in Haynes manual #1337

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Haynes Manuals ExplairwBe^: • • • •

•

step-by-step procedures t^ed to hundreds6f easy-to-foHow phcftos Written from "hands-ori"emerience...usmg comnioniBgIs Quick an^easy troubleshooting sections Detailed x^iring diagrams Color sp^k plug diagnosis