Haynes Chevrolet Corvette 1984 thru 1996 Automotive Repair Manual 1563922266, 9781563922268

Citation preview

Phillip Cox

©HAYNES 1986

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2022 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/chevroletcorvettO000stub

LS

Daly City Public Library DALY CITY PUBLIC LIBRARY

Daly City, Caltfornia

nU4092618 7

Chevrolet Corvette Automotive

Repair

Manual by Mike Stubblefield and John H Haynes Member of the Guild of Motoring Writers

Models covered: Chevrolet Corvette 1984 through 1996 Does not include ZR-1 model information ABCD!

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Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

MEMBEI2

Acknowledgements We are grateful for the help and cooperation of General Motors Corporation for assistance with technical information, certain

illustrations and vehicle photos.

© Haynes North America, Inc. 1987, 1989, 1991, 1997 With permission from J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

A book in the Haynes Automotive Repair Manual Series Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 56392 226 6 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 96-77420 While every attempt is made to ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. 97-352

Contents Introductory pages About this manual Introduction to the Chevrolet Corvette Vehicle identification numbers Buying parts Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Jacking and towing Booster battery (jump) starting Automotive chemicals and lubricants Conversion factors Safety first! Troubleshooting

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Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance

Chapter 2

PartA

Engine

Chapter 2

1-1

2A-1

PartB

General engine overhaul procedures

2B-1

Chapter 3 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

3-1

Chapter 4 Fuel and exhaust systems

4-1

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 7

PartA

Manual transmission and overdrive unit

Chapter 7

6-1

TA-1

PartB

Automatic transmission

7B-1

Chapter 8 Clutch and drivetrain

e415:

Chapter 10 Suspension and steering systems

10-1

Chapter 11 Body

11-1

Chapter 12 Chassis electrical system

12-1

Wiring diagrams

12-22

Index

IND-1

IND |

1985 Corvette

About this manual Its purpose The purpose of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer service department or a repair shop; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic

and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the vehicle into a shop and making the trips to leave it and pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labor and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself.

Using the manual The manual is divided into Chapters. Each Chapter is divided into numbered Sections, which are headed in bold type between horizontal

lines. Each Section consists of consecutively numbered paragraphs. At the beginning of each numbered Section you will be referred to any illustrations which apply to the procedures in that Section. The reference numbers used in illustration captions pinpoint the pertinent Section and the Step within that Section. That is, illustration 3.2 means the illustration refers to Section 3 and Step (or paragraph) 2 within that Section. Procedures, once described in the text, are not normally repeated. When it’s necessary to refer to another Chapter, the reference will be given as Chapter and Section number. Cross references given without use of the word “Chapter” apply to Sections and/or paragraphs in the same Chapter. For example, “see Section 8” means in the same Chapter. References to the left or right side of the vehicle assume you are sitting in the driver’s seat, facing forward. Even though we have prepared this manual with extreme care, neither the publisher nor the author can accept responsibility for any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

NOTE A Note provides information necessary to properly complete a procedure or information which will make the procedure easier to understand.

CAUTION A Caution provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Caution is found. Not heeding a Caution can result in damage to the assembly being worked on.

WARNING A Warning provides a special procedure or special steps which must be taken while completing the procedure where the Warning is found. Not heeding a Warning can result in personal injury.

Introduction to the Chevrolet Corvette The Chevrolet Corvette is the luxury sports car from General Motors first introduced in 1953. Series production of the fiberglassbodied two-seater

began in 1954, and over the years the car has

developed from a six-cylinder with automatic transmission “personal” car to the high-performance sports car against which all other US

sports cars are compared. The Corvette comes with a high-performance version of the Chevrolet 350 cubic inch V8 engine as standard equipment. The engine is fueled by a “Crossfire” throttle body injection system (1984

models) or Tuned Port Injection (1985 and later), both controlled by a sophisticated computer system. Three transmissions are available - a four speed manual transmission with a separate overdrive unit, a six-speed manual transmission and a four speed automatic transmission.

The suspension is fully independent front and rear, makes extensive use of aluminum components, and features a “plastic” single leaf rear spring.

0-6

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in automotive manufacturing. Because spare parts manuals and lists are compiled

on a numerical

basis, the individual vehicle numbers

are

essential to correctly identify the component required.

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Vehicle identification number (VIN) This very important identification number is located on a plate attached to the top left corner of the dashboard of the vehicle (see illustration). The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certificate of Title and Registration. It contains valuable information such as the vehicle’s manufacturing location and the date of its completion. A chart showing

TYPICAL VIN

the various General Motors VIN codes is included in this Section (see — illustration).

Engine identification number The engine identification number is located on a machined pad which is actually an extension of the block head mating surface, just in front of the right head (see illustration). An optional engine identification number location is on the left rear block flange just behind the oil filter mount.

The Vehicle Identification Number is on a plate attached to the left top of the instrument panel where it can be seen through the windshield from outside the vehicle

Automatic transmission identification number The transmission identification number, which indicates the year of the transmission and when and where it was built, is located on the pan mounting flange at the right rear of the transmission (see illustration).

The transmission VIN (Serial) number is stamped on the right side of the torque converter housing, with an optional location on the left side of the tailshaft mounting flange.

ENGINE V.I.N. (OPTIONAL) ENGINE V.I.N.

Q [view]B] The engine ID number is located on the block head mating surface where it extends in front of the right head, with an optional location just to the rear of the oil filter mount

Vehicle identification numbers

0-7

PASSENGER CAR VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER 1G 1 YY 0786G 5 000000 PLANT SEQUENTIAL

_ NATION OF ORIGIN 1 U.S.A. 2 CANADA 3 MEXICO

CODE

ASSEMBLY PLANT

5

MODEL

NUMBER

Bowling Green

YEAR 1984 1985 1986 1987

MANUFACTURER G GENERAL MOTORS

General Motors vehicle identification number codes

DIVISION 1 CHEVROLET

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CARLINE/SERIES CARLINE

CORVETTE CORVETTE ZR1

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BODY TYPE

COUPE, 2-DOOR HATCHBACK COUPE, 2-DOOR HATCHBACK

COUPE, 2-DOOR CONVERTIBLE COUPE, 2-DOOR CONVERTIBLE

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The automatic transmission identification number is on the right rear of the pan mounting flange, and the transmission VIN is on the right side of the torque converter housing, with an optional location

on the left side of the tailshaft mounting flange

VIN LOCATION

OPTIONAL

VIN LOCATION

0-8

Vehicle identification numbers

DO NOT REMOVE

Service Parts Identification 1G1AZ3799ER157148 ARL

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LABEL LOCATION

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P AINT T TECHNOLOGY — SOLUTION LACQUER — DISPERSION LACQUER — HIGH SOLIDS ENAMEL — WATERBORNE ENAMEL — BASECOAT/CLEARCOAT

VINYL TOP COLOR (IF APPLICABLE)

PAINT CODES AND LOCATIONS

L —

LOWER BODY COLOR

U A

UPPER BODY COLOR MIDDLE BODY OR ACCENT COLOR (STRIPING, ETC.)

— —

TRIM COMBINATIONS

The Service Parts Identification label is mounted inside the driver’s side rear storage compartment or under the console lid

Alternator numbers The alternator ID number is on top of the drive end frame.

Starter numbers The starter ID number is stamped on the outer case towards the

rear.

Battery numbers The battery ID number is on the middle of the cell cover at the top of the battery.

Rear axle number The rear axle number is on the bottom surface of the carrier at the

cover mounting flange.

Service Parts Identification label The Service Parts Identification side rear storage compartment. This duction options (RPO’s) installed on equipment, mandatory options and tion).

label is located inside the driver’s label will list all of the regular prothe vehicle, as well as standard paint color codes (see illustra-

0-9

Buying parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories - authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc.

These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell

tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower

prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \|f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased - regardless of the source - do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification.

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities Maintenance techniques There are a number of techniques involved in maintenance and repair that will be referred to throughout this manual. Application of

these techniques will enable the home mechanic to be more efficient, better organized and capable of performing the various tasks properly, which will ensure that the repair job is thorough and complete.

Fasteners Fasteners are nuts, bolts, studs and screws used to hold two or

more parts together. There are a few things to keep in mind when working with fasteners. Almost all of them use a locking device of some type, either a lockwasher, locknut, locking tab or thread adhesive. All threaded fasteners should be clean and straight, with undam-

aged threads and undamaged corners on the hex head where the wrench fits. Develop the habit of replacing all damaged nuts and bolts with new ones. Special locknuts with nylon or fiber inserts can only be

used once. If they are removed, they lose their locking ability and must be replaced with new ones. Rusted nuts and bolts should be treated with a penetrating fluid to ease removal and prevent breakage. Some mechanics use turpentine in a spout-type oil can, which works quite well. After applying the rust penetrant, let it work for a few minutes before trying to loosen the

nut or bolt. Badly rusted fasteners may have to be chiseled or sawed off or removed with a special nut breaker, available at tool stores. If a bolt or stud breaks off in an assembly, it can be drilled and removed with a special tool commonly available for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can perform this task, as well as other repair procedures, such as the repair of threaded holes that have been stripped out. Flat washers and lockwashers, when removed from an assembly, should always be replaced exactly as removed. Replace any damaged washers with new ones. Never use a lockwasher on any soft metal surface (Such as aluminum), thin sheet metal or plastic.

0-10

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Fastener sizes For a number of reasons, automobile manufacturers are making wider and wider use of metric fasteners. Therefore, it is important to be able to tell the difference between standard (sometimes called U.S. or SAE) and metric hardware, since they cannot be interchanged. All bolts, whether standard or metric, are sized according to diameter, thread pitch and length. For example, a standard 1/2 - 13 x 1 bolt is 1/2 inch in diameter, has 13 threads per inch and is 1 inch long. An M12 - 1.75 x 25 metric bolt is 12 mm in diameter, has a thread pitch of 1.75 mm (the distance between threads) and is 25 mm long. The two bolts are nearly identical, and easily confused, but they are not interchangeable. In addition to the differences in diameter, thread pitch and length, metric and standard bolts can also be distinguished by examining the

bolt heads. To begin with, the distance across the flats on a standard bolt head is measured in inches, while the same dimension on a metric bolt is sized in millimeters (the same is true for nuts). As a result, a standard wrench should not be used on a metric bolt and a_ metric

Grade 1 or 2

wrench should not be used on a standard bolt. Also, most standard bolts have slashes radiating out from the center of the head to denote the grade or strength of the bolt, which is an indication of the amount of torque that can be applied to it. The greater the number of slashes, the greater the strength of the bolt. Grades 0 through 5 are commonly

used on automobiles. Metric bolts have a property class (grade) number, rather than a slash, molded into their heads to indicate bolt strength. In this case, the higher the number, the stronger the bolt. Property class numbers 8.8, 9.8 and 10.9 are commonly used on automobiles. Strength markings can also be used to distinguish standard hex nuts from metric hex nuts. Many standard nuts have dots stamped into one side, while metric nuts are marked with a number. The greater the number of dots, or the higher the number, the greater the strength of the nut. Metric studs are also marked on their ends according to property class (grade). Larger studs are numbered (the same as metric bolts), while smaller studs carry a geometric code to denote grade.

Grade 5

Grade 8

Bolt strength marking (standard/SAE/USS; bottom - metric)

Grade

Hex

Identification

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Hex

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Identification

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Property Class 9

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Nut

Grade

Grade

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Standard hex nut strength markings

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Metric hex nut strength markings

Metric stud strength markings 00-1 HAYNES

0-11

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities It should be noted that many fasteners, especially Grades 0 through 2, have no distinguishing marks on them. When such is the case, the only way to determine whether it is standard or metric is to measure the thread pitch or compare it to a known fastener of the same size. Standard fasteners are often referred to as SAE, as opposed to metric. However, it should be noted that SAE technically refers to a non-metric fine thread fastener only. Coarse thread non-metric fasten-

ers are referred to as USS sizes. Since fasteners of the same size (both standard and metric) may have different strength ratings, be sure to reinstall any bolts, studs or nuts removed from your vehicle in their original locations. Also, when replacing a fastener with a new one, make sure that the new one has a strength rating equal to or greater than the original.

Tightening sequences and procedures Most threaded fasteners should be tightened to a specific torque

value (torque is the twisting force applied to a threaded component such as a nut or bolt). Overtightening: the fastener can weaken it and cause it to break, while undertightening can cause it to eventually come loose. Bolts, screws and studs, depending on the material they are made of and their thread diameters, have specific torque values, many of which are noted in the Specifications at the beginning of each Chapter. Be sure to follow the torque recommendations closely. For fasteners not assigned a specific torque, a general torque value chart is presented here as a guide. These torque values are for dry (unlubricated) fasteners threaded into steel or cast iron (not aluminum). As was previously mentioned, the size and grade of a fastener determine the amount of torque that can safely be applied to it. The figures listed

Metric thread sizes

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6 to 9 14 to 21

9 to 12 19 to 28

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28 to 40 50 to 71 80 to 140

38 to 54 68 to 96 109 to 154

5 to 8

7 to 10

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6 to9

12 14 22 27 40 40 55

to to to to to to to

17 to 24 30 to 44 34 to 47

9 to 12

18 20 32 38 55 60 80

17 19 30 37 55 55 75

to 24 to 27 to 43 to'51 to 74 to 81 to 108

00-2 HAYNES

Standard (SAE and USS) bolt dimensions/grade marks

G L

Grade marks (bolt strength) Length (in inches)

T

Thread pitch (number of threads per inch)

D

Nominal diameter (in inches)

Metric bolt dimensions/grade marks Property class (bolt strength) Length (in millimeters) Thread pitch (distance between threads in millimeters) OyxrD Diameter

0-12

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

here are approximate for Grade 2 and Grade 3 fasteners. Higher grades can tolerate higher torque values. Fasteners laid out in a pattern, such as cylinder head bolts, oil pan bolts, differential cover bolts, etc., must be loosened or tightened in sequence to avoid warping the component. This sequence will normally be shown in the appropriate Chapter. If a specific pattern is not given, the foilowing procedures can be used to prevent warping. Initially, the bolts or nuts should be assembled finger-tight only. Next, they should be tightened one full turn each, in a criss-cross or diagonal pattern. After each one has been tightened one full turn, return to the first one and tighten them all one-half turn, following the

same pattern. Finally, tighten each of them one-quarter turn at a time until each fastener has been tightened to the proper torque. To loosen and remove the fasteners, the procedure would be reversed.

Component disassembly Component disassembly should be done with care and purpose to help ensure that the parts go back together properly. Always keep track of the sequence in which parts are removed. Make note of special characteristics or marks on parts that can be installed more than one way, such as a grooved thrust washer on a shaft. It is a good idea to lay the disassembled parts out on a clean surface in the order that they were removed. It may also be helpful to make sketches or take instant photos of components before removal. When removing fasteners from a component, keep track of their locations. Sometimes threading a bolt back in a part, or putting the washers and nut back on a stud, can prevent mix-ups later. If nuts and bolts cannot be returned to their original locations, they should be kept in a compartmented box or a series of small boxes. A cupcake or muffin tin is ideal for this purpose, since each cavity can hold the bolts and nuts from a particular area (i.e. oil pan bolts, valve cover bolts, engine mount bolts, etc.). A pan of this type is especially helpful when working on assemblies with very small parts, such as the carburetor, alternator, valve train or interior dash and trim pieces. The cavities can be marked with paint or tape to identify the contents. Whenever wiring looms, harnesses or connectors are separated, it is a good idea to identify the two halves with numbered pieces of masking tape so they can be easily reconnected.

Hose removal tips Warning: /f the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, do not disconnect any of the A/C hoses without first having the system depressurized by a dealer service department or a service station. Hose removal precautions closely parallel gasket removal precautions. Avoid scratching or gouging the surface that the hose mates against or the connection may leak. This is especially true for radiator hoses. Because of various chemical reactions, the rubber in hoses can bond itself to the metal spigot that the hose fits over. To remove a hose, first loosen the hose clamps that secure it to the spigot. Then, with slip-joint pliers, grab the hose at the clamp and rotate it around the spigot. Work it back and forth until it is completely free, then pull it off. Silicone or other lubricants will ease removal if they can be applied between the hose and the outside of the spigot. Apply the same lubricant to the inside of the hose and the outside of the spigot to simplify installation. As a last resort (and if the hose is to be replaced with a new one anyway), the rubber can be slit with a knife and the hose peeled from the spigot. If this must be done, be careful that the metal connection is not damaged. If a hose clamp is broken or damaged, do not reuse it. Wire-type clamps usually weaken with age, so it is a good idea to replace them with screw-type clamps whenever a hose is removed.

Tools A selection of good tools is a basic requirement for anyone who plans to maintain and repair his or her own vehicle. For the owner who has few tools, the initial investment might seem high, but when compared to the spiraling costs of professional auto maintenance and repair, it is a wise one.

Gasket sealing surfaces Throughout any vehicle, gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between two parts and keep lubricants, fluids, vacuum or pressure contained in an assembly. Many times these gaskets are coated with a liquid or paste-type gasket sealing compound before assembly. Age, heat and pressure can sometimes cause the two parts to stick together so tightly that they are very difficult to separate. Often, the assembly can be loosened by striking it with a soft-face hammer near the mating surfaces. A regular hammer can be used if a block of wood is placed between the hammer and the part. Do not hammer on cast parts or parts that could be easily damaged. With any particularly stubborn part, always recheck to make sure that every fastener has been removed. Avoid using a screwdriver or bar to pry apart an assembly, as they can easily mar the gasket sealing surfaces of the parts, which must remain smooth. If prying is absolutely necessary, use an old broom handle, but keep in mind that extra clean up will be necessary if the wood splinters. After the parts are separated, the old gasket must be carefully

scraped off and the gasket surfaces cleaned. Stubborn gasket material can be soaked with rust penetrant or treated with a special chemical to soften it so it can be easily scraped off. A scraper can be fashioned from a piece of copper tubing by flattening and sharpening one end. Copper is recommended because it is usually softer than the surfaces to be scraped, which reduces the chance of gouging the part. Some gaskets can be removed with a wire brush, but regardless of the method used, the mating surfaces must be left clean and smooth. If for some reason the gasket surface is gouged, then a gasket sealer thick enough to fill scratches will have to be used during reassembly of the components. For most applications, a non-drying (or semi-drying) gasket sealer should be used.

Micrometer set

Dial indicator set

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

0-13

Timing light

Compression gauge with spark plug hole adapter

Valve spring compressor

Ridge reamer

Piston ring groove cleaning tool

Ring removai/installation tool

0-14

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

Ring compressor

Cylinder hone

Brake hold-down spring tool

Brake cylinder hone

Clutch plate alignment tool

Tap and die set

To help the owner decide which tools are needed to perform the tasks detailed in this manual, the following tool lists are offered: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair/overhaul and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the maintenance and minor repair tool kit, which is adequate for the simpler jobs performed on a vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, the owner can tackle more difficult tasks, buying additional tools as they are needed. Eventually the basic kit will be expanded into

the repair and overhaul tool set. Over a period of time, the experienced do-it-yourselfer will assemble a tool set complete enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the frequency of

use.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools in this list should be considered the minimum required for performance of routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair work. We recommend the purchase of combination wrenches (boxend and open-end combined in one wrench). While more expensive than open end wrenches, they offer the advantages of both types of wrench.

Combination wrench set (1/4-inch to 1 inch or 6 mm to 19 mm) Adjustable wrench, 8 inch

Spark plug wrench with rubber insert Spark plug gap adjusting tool Feeler gauge set Brake bleeder wrench Standard screwdriver (5/16-inch x 6 inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 2 x 6 inch) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw and assortment of blades Tire pressure gauge Grease gun

Oil can Fine emery cloth Wire brush Battery post and cable cleaning tool Oil filter wrench Funnel (medium size) Safety goggles Jackstands (2) Drain pan

Note: /f basic tune-ups are going to be part of routine maintenance, it will be necessary to purchase a good quality stroboscopic timing light and combination tachometer/dwell meter. Although they are included in the list of special tools, it is mentioned here because they are absolutely necessary for tuning most vehicles properly.

Repair and overhaul tool set These tools are essential for anyone who plans to perform major repairs and are in addition to those in the maintenance and minor repair tool kit. Included is a comprehensive set of sockets which, * though expensive, are invaluable because of their versatility, especially when various extensions and drives are available. We recommend the 1/2-inch drive over the 3/8-inch drive. Although the larger drive is bulky and more expensive, it has the capacity of accepting a very wide range

of large sockets. Ideally, however, the mechanic should have a 3/8inch drive set and a 1/2-inch drive set. Socket set(s) Reversible ratchet Extension - 10 inch Universal joint Torque wrench (same size drive as sockets) Ball peen hammer - 8 ounce Soft-face hammer (plastic/rubber) Standard screwdriver (1/4-inch x 6 inch)

0-15

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities SS

SE

SESE

SEI

ES

SES

SST

Standard screwdriver (stubby - 5/16-inch) Phillips screwdriver (No. 3 x 8 inch) Phillips screwdriver (stubby - No. 2) Pliers - vise grip Pliers - lineman’s Pliers - needle nose Pliers - snap-ring (internal and external) Cold chisel - 1/2-inch Scribe Scraper (made from flattened copper tubing) Centerpunch Pin punches (1/16, 1/8, 3/16-inch) Stee! rule/straightedge - 12 inch Allen wrench set (1/8 to 3/8-inch or 4mm to 10 mm) A selection of files Wire brush (large) Jackstands (second set) Jack (scissor or hydraulic type) Note: Another tool which is often useful is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of 3/8-inch and a set of good quality drill bits.

Special tools The tools in this list include those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturer’s instructions. Unless these tools will be used frequently, it is not very economical to purchase many of them. A consideration would be to split the cost and use between yourself and a friend or friends. In addition, most of these tools can be obtained from a tool rental shop on a temporary basis. This list primarily contains only those tools and instruments widely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer for distribution to dealer service departments.

Occasionally, references to the manufacturer’s special tools are included in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the special tool is offered. However, sometimes there is no alternative to their use. Where this is the case, and the tool cannot be purchased or borrowed, the work should be turned over to the dealer service department or an automotive repair shop. Valve spring compressor Piston ring groove cleaning tool Piston ring compressor Piston ring installation tool Cylinder compression gauge Cylinder ridge reamer Cylinder surfacing hone Cylinder bore gauge Micrometers and/or dial calipers Hydraulic lifter removal tool Balljoint separator Universal-type puller Impact screwdriver Dial indicator set Stroboscopic timing light (inductive pick-up) Hand operated vacuum/pressure pump Tachometer/dwell meter Universal electrical multimeter Cable hoist Brake spring removal and installation tools Floor jack

Buying tools For the do-it-yourselfer who is just starting to get involved in vehicle maintenance and repair, there are a number of options available when purchasing tools. If maintenance and minor repair is the extent of

the work to be done, the purchase of individual tools is satisfactory. If, on the other hand, extensive work is planned, it would be a good idea

to purchase a modest tool set from one of the large retail chain stores. A set can usually be bought at a substantial savings over the individual tool prices, and they often come with a tool box. As additional tools are

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needed, add-on sets, individual tools and a larger tool box can be purchased to expand the tool selection. Building a tool set gradually

allows the cost of the tools to be spread over a longer period of time and gives the mechanic the freedom to choose only those tools that will actually be used. Tool stores will often be the only source of some of the special tools that are needed, but regardless of where tools are bought, try to avoid cheap ones, especially when buying screwdrivers and sockets, because they won’t last very long. The expense involved in replacing cheap tools will eventually be greater than the initial cost of quality tools.

Care and maintenance of tools Good tools are expensive, so it makes sense to treat them with respect. Keep them clean and in usable condition and store them properly when not in use. Always wipe off any dirt, grease or metal chips before putting them away. Never leave tools lying around in the work area. Upon completion of a job, always check closely under the hood for tools that may have been left there so they won’t get lost during a test drive. Some tools, such as screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches and sockets, can be hung on a panel mounted on the garage or workshop wall, while others should be kept in a tool box or tray. Measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc. must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged by weather or impact from other tools. When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, though, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it. Subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do.

How to repair damaged threads Sometimes, the internal threads of a nut or bolt hole can become stripped, usually from overtightening. Stripping threads is an all-toocommon occurrence, especially when working with aluminum parts, because aluminum is so soft that it easily strips out. Usually, external or internal threads are only partially stripped. After they’ve been cleaned up with a tap or die, they'll still work. Sometimes, however, threads are badly damaged. When this happens, you’ve got three choices: 1) Drill and tap the hole to the next suitable oversize and install a larger diameter bolt, screw or stud. 2) Drill and tap the hole to accept a threaded plug, then drill and tap the plug to the original screw size. You can also buy a plug already threaded to the original size. Then you simply drill a hole to the specified size, then run the threaded plug into the hole with a bolt and jam nut. Once the plug is fully seated, remove the jam nut and bolt. 3) The third method uses a patented thread repair kit like Heli-Coil or Slimsert. These easy-to-use kits are designed to repair damaged threads in straight-through holes and blind holes. Both are avail-

able as kits which can handle a variety of sizes and thread patterns. Drill the hole, then tap it with the special included tap. Install the Heli-Coil and the hole is back to its original diameter and thread pitch. Regardless of which method you use, be sure to proceed calmly and carefully. A little impatience or carelessness during one of these relatively simple procedures can ruin your whole day’s work and cost you a bundle if you wreck an expensive part.

Working facilities Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential. It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available, and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside. It is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof. A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is

0-16

Maintenance techniques, tools and working facilities

an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. which soon become necessary. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or recycling center. Plastic jugs, such as old antifreeze containers, are ideal for this purpose.

Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the vehicle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor.

Whenever working over a painted surface, such as when leaning over a fender to service something under the hood, always cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish. Vinyl covered pads, made especially for this purpose, are available at auto parts stores.

0-17

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the vehicle should only be used for raising the vehicle when changing a tire or placing jackstands under the frame. Caution: Never work under the vehicle or start the engine while this jack is being used as the only means of support. The vehicle should be on level ground with the wheels blocked and the transmission in Park (automatic) or Reverse (manual). If the wheel is being replaced, loosen the wheel nuts one-half turn but leave them in place until the wheel is raised off the ground. Block the front and rear of the wheel opposite the one being removed before operating the jack. Place the jack head between the locator triangles on the rocker flange nearest to the wheel being changed (see illustration). Caution: Vehicle damage is likely unless the jack head engages the rocker flange between the locator triangles. When using a floor type jack against the frame rails to lift the vehicle, use care not to allow the jack to contact the catalytic converter. When lifting the vehicle by any other means, special care must be exercised to avoid damage to the fuel tank, filler neck, exhaust system or underboay.

state and local laws must be obeyed. A safety chain system must be used for all towing. While towing, the parking brake should be released and the transmission should be in Neutral. The steering must be unlocked (ignition switch in the Off position). Remember that power brakes will not work with the engine off.

LOCATOR TRIANGLES

\

LE

/

APPROX. 5 INCHES (125 MILLIMETERS)

Towing If equipped with an automatic transmission, the vehicle may be towed on all four wheels at speeds less than 35 mph for distances up to 50 miles. These speeds and distances do not apply to vehicles with manual transmissions. Towing equipment specifically designed for this purpose should be used and should be attached to the main structural members of the vehicle and not the bumper or brackets. Safety is a major consideration when towing and all applicable

APPROX. JINCHES (75 MILLIMETERS)

The jack must be mounted between the locator triangles on the rocker flange

Booster battery (jump) starting Certain precautions must be observed when using a booster battery to jump start a vehicle. a) Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition switch is in the Off position. b) Turn off the lights, heater and other electrical loads. c) The eyes should be shielded. Safety goggles are a good idea. d) Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the dead one in the vehicle. e) The two vehicles must not touch each other. f) Make sure that the transmission is in Neutral (manual transmis-

sion) or Park (automatic transmission).

Dead Battery

Booster battery

OO0000

g) If the booster battery is not a maintenance-free type, remove the vent caps and lay a cloth over the vent holes.

Connect the red jumper cable to the Positive (+) terminals of each battery. Connect one end of the black jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery. The other end of this cable should be con-

nected to a good ground on the vehicle to be started, such as a bolt or bracket on the engine block. Use caution to ensure that the cable will

not come into contact with the fan, drivebelt or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jumper cables in the reverse order of connection.

= Make the booster battery cable connections in the numerical order shown (note that the negative cable of the booster battery is NOT attached to the negative terminal of the dead battery)

0-18

Automotive chemicals and lubricants that is used for mounting electronic ignition modules where it is essential that heat is transferred away from the module.

A number of automotive chemicals and lubricants are available for use during vehicle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.

Sealants

Cleaners

Made from silicone, RTV is air curing, it seals, bonds, waterproofs, fills

Carburetor cleaner and choke cleaner is a strong solvent for gum, varnish and carbon. Most carburetor cleaners leave a dry-type lubricant film which will not harden or gum up. Because of this film it is not recommended for use on electrical components. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease and brake fluid from the brake system, where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary. It leaves no residue and often eliminates brake squeal caused by contaminants. Electrical cleaner removes oxidation, corrosion and carbon

surface irregularities, remains flexible, doesn’t shrink, is relatively easy to remove, and is used as a supplementary sealer with almost all low and medium temperature gaskets. Anaerobic sealant is much like RTV in that it can be used either to seal gaskets or to form gaskets by itself. It remains flexible, is solvent resistant and fills surface imperfections. The difference between an anaerobic sealant and an RTV-type sealant is in the curing. RTV cures when exposed to air, while an anaerobic sealant cures only in the absence of air. This means that an anaerobic sealant cures only after the assembly of parts, sealing them together. Thread and pipe sealant is used for sealing hydraulic and pneumatic fittings and vacuum lines. It is usually made from a Teflon compound, and comes in a spray, a paint-on liquid and as a wrap-around

deposits from electrical contacts, restoring full current flow. It can also

be used to clean spark plugs, carburetor jets, voltage regulators and other parts where an oil-free surface is desired. ; Demoisturants remove water and moisture from electrical components such as alternators, voltage regulators, electrical connectors and fuse blocks. They are non-conductive, non-corrosive and nonflammable. Degreasers are heavy-duty solvents used to remove grease from the outside of the engine and from chassis components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed off either with water or solvent.

Lubricants Motor oil is the lubricant formulated for use in engines. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the season, temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions. Heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W-50. Gear oil is designed to be used in differentials, manual transmissions and other areas where high-temperature lubrication is required. Chassis and wheel bearing grease is a heavy grease used where increased loads and friction are encountered, such as for wheel

bearings, balljoints, tie-rod ends and universal joints. High-temperature wheel bearing grease is designed to withstand the extreme temperatures encountered by wheel bearings in disc brake equipped vehicles. It usually contains molybdenum disulfide (moly), which is a dry-type lubricant. White grease is a heavy grease for metal-to-metal applications where water is a problem. White grease stays soft under both low and high temperatures (usually from -100 to +190-degrees F), and will not wash off or dilute in the presence of water. Assembly lube is a special extreme pressure lubricant, usually containing moly, used to lubricate high-load parts (such as main and rod bearings and cam lobes) for initial start-up of a new engine. The assembly lube lubricates the parts without being squeezed out or washed away until the engine oiling system begins to function. Silicone lubricants are used to protect rubber, plastic, vinyl and nylon parts. Graphite lubricants are used where oils cannot be used due to contamination problems, such as in locks. The dry graphite will lubricate metal parts while remaining uncontaminated by dirt, water, oil or acids. It is electrically conductive and will not foul electrical contacts in locks such as the ignition switch. Moly penetrants loosen and lubricate frozen, rusted and corroded fasteners and prevent future rusting or freezing.

Heat-sink grease is a special electrically non-conductive grease

RTV sealant is one of the most widely used gasket compounds.

tape.

Chemicals Anti-seize compound prevents seizing, galling, cold welding, rust and corrosion in fasteners. High-temperature ant-seize, usually made with copper and graphite lubricants, is used for exhaust system and exhaust manifold bolts. Anaerobic locking compounds are used to keep fasteners from vibrating or working loose and cure only after installation, in the absence of air. Medium strength locking compound is used for small nuts, bolts and screws that may be removed later. High-strength locking compound is for large nuts, bolts and studs which aren’t removed on a regular basis. Oil additives range from viscosity index improvers to chemical treatments that claim to reduce internal engine friction. It should be noted that most oil manufacturers caution against using additives with their oils. Gas additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor, fuei injection and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings, and others contain chemicals to remove condensation from the gas tank.

Miscellaneous Brake fluid is specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems. Care must be taken so this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Weatherstrip adhesive is used to bond weatherstripping around doors, windows and trunk lids. It is sometimes used to attach trim pieces. Undercoating is a petroleum-based, tar-like substance that is

designed to protect metal surfaces on the underside of the vehicle from corrosion. It also acts as a sound-deadening agent by insulating the bottom of the vehicle. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax and polish. Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes.

0-19

Conversion

factors

Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

X X X

25.4 0.305 1.609

=Millimetres (mm) =Metres (m) = Kilometres (km)

X X X

0.0394 3.281 0.621

X X. X X

16.387 0.568 1.137 1.201

= Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) = Litres (I) = Litres (I) =US quarts (US qt)

X x x X

0.061 1.76 0.88 0.833

=Inches (in) =Feet (ft) =Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in’) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

=Cubic inches (cu in; in®) = Imperial pints (Imp pt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt) =Imperial quarts (Imp qt)

US quarts (US qt)

X

0.946

= Litres (I)

X

1.057

=US quarts (US qt)

Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

X X X

4.546 1.201 3.785

= Litres (I) =US gallons (US gal) =Litres (I)

x X X

0.22 0.833 0.264

= Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =Imperial gallons (Imp gal) =US gallons (US gal)

Mass (weight)

:

Ounces (oz)

X

28.35

=Grams

xX

0.035

Ounces (oz)

Pounds (lb)

X

0.454

=Kilograms (kg)

X

2.205

= Pounds (Ib)

xX 0.278 X 4.448 X 0.1.

=Newtons (N) = Newtons (N) =Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x X x

3.6 0.225 9.81

= Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) = Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) = Newtons (N)

X

= Kilograms-force per square

X

14.223

= Pounds-force

(g)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch

0.070

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm?)

Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.068

=Atmospheres

X

0.069

Pounds-force per square inch

X

Kiiopascals (kPa)

(atm)

X

14.696

= Pounds-force per square inch

= Bars

x

14.5

= Pounds-force per square inch

6.895

=Kilopascals (kPa)

X

0.145

= Pounds-force per square inch

X

0.01

=Kilograms-force per square

x

98.1

inches

X

1.152

X

0.868

inches

X

0.113

= Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) =Newton metres (Nm)

x

8.85

inches

X

0.083

= Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

Xx

ez

feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

X

0.138

= Kilograms-force metres

X

7.233

=Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) = Pounds-force

=Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) =Newton metres (Nm)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm’)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force

per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

(psi; Ibf/in?; |b/in?)

= Kilopascals (kPa)

; inches

inches inches feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Néwton metres (Nm)

X X

1.356 0.102

=Newton metres (Nm) =Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

X X

0.738 9.804

X

745.7

=Watts

X

0.0013

X

1.609

= Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) X

0.621

=Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

X X

0.354 0.425

= Kilometres per litre (km/I) =Kilometres per litre (km/I)

2.825 2,352

=Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) =Miles per gallon, US (mpg)

Power Horsepower (hp)

(W)

=Horsepower

(hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon, Imperial (mpg) Miles. per gallon, US (mpg)

*

X X

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit

=

(°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C)

*/t is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/100km),

where mpg (Imperial) x. 1/100 km = 282 and mpg (US) x 1/100 km = 235

= (°F - 32) x 0.56

0-20

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopar-

Fire

dized.

smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by

A moment’s lack of attention can result in an accident, as can

failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts

Sx

DON’T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended lift or support points. DON’T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack - it may fall. DON’T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON’T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system - let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled

to the point that it will not burn you.

:

DON’T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON’T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid

by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust - it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below). DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and Cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone - get someone to help

you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON’T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are

working on it. DO wear eye protection when

using power tools such as a drill,

sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle.

DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving’ parts.

DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything is correctly assembled and tightened. ’ DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Remember at all times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never

static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide,

which is extremely poiso-

nous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (-) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenance-free batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Household current When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which

operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel

vapor.

Asbestos

Secondary ignition system voltage

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products - such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets,

A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

etc. - may contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products, since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

0-21

Troubleshooting Contents Symptom

Section

Engine

Section

Manual transmission

EMGIMETOACKTINOS tes sese cetestesat ect taren ei teccescect sss ctndsceiersctseeteaessavapsetoeene Engine diesels (continues to run) after switching Off.............:.cc00 Engine nard tofstant whem Colitis: c..sscccosvecceatccivecsaccessscstseatectes Engineinardlto:start whenihote.c22 te teselecsestetesstessccitsivcsencaecoeeed EiGiNG HACKSIPOWCIersstartccnc cost antec sceresesceoesnssdssteStisnatestectnet yoeseccedoeese Engine lopes while idling or idles erratically..............csscececsesseeeeeees ENGINGmmiSSes at Idle:SMSOC fice .cecs ieecee laces shuseshuns stectetessocdsndedevessses Engine misses throughout Criving SPEEM FANGE.........::ccccceeessreeeeees ENGIREMOLALeS HOUT Will MOtcStantieenscs-cacccctdccseckssesvetentaesascosesnccncwoeses Engine runs with oil pressure light OM ..............cccccessesssesessnssesseeneees EMIGIMESStANS rc aprses.eeccnc sti ensaacteshoeessGecvuelasccvesieccsestaveatvunsstecdewenesacveces Engine starts but stops immediately ..................cccseseseesseesessenseeeeees Engine StUMbIeS ONIACCElErAatiON s..cc-seccspccnsceeceesceseveseivetovesecavosnscece Engine surges while holding accelerator steady............ccssceceeeeeee Engine will not rotate when attempting to staft .....cssssssesssesseesseen

15 18 3 4 14 8 9 10 2 17 13 6 11 12 7

Oil PUGS tUNGeMeMcineseece.c-scecs. stocesateeeps nese csvcscubedces.ccseesstceeses cases Pinging or knocking engine sounds during

7

sccsecececcevsesssccevevesescacrsv seedsscretscsnccsesasveSescss«

16

Starter motor noisy or excessively rough in engagement..............

ACCEISHAUONLOMUP MII

5

dl Engine electrical system [email protected] vxsecactseduacessettvetssceceonseos™

Leaks lUbriCantcx wos.tcccosscecsteccccneoctecs cueusesssecerees Pats enncvecconsreraeretaees Noisy’ imal Gears cic ecccode. cccevesvencecrsetatdascorecsasantcosevase¥asehacetcceoese

Noisy in Neutral with engine running.............sctecccessesessecterecesseeeeees Noisy intone, particular Qeal icc.

—

RS

1612 8 4

SM

R

3

aluminum heads, the short bolts installed along the lower edge do not require the same torque as the rest of the bolts (see the Specifications). 17 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

7 11 15

9 8.16 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence - note that the bolts along the lower edge of the head (arrow) are shorter than the others

Top Dead Center (TDC) for number 1 piston - locating

Refer to illustrations 9.5, 9.7 and 9.8

1991 and earlier models 1 Top Dead Center (TDC) is the highest point in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it travels up-and-down when the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC on the compression stroke and again on the exhaust:stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke. The timing marks on the vibration damper installed on the front of the crankshaft are referenced to the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke. 2 Positioning the piston(s) at TDC is an essential part of many procedures such as rocker arm removal, valve adjustment, timing chain and sprocket replacement and distributor removal. 3 In order to bring any piston to TDC, the crankshaft must be turned using one of the methods outlined below. When looking at the front of the engine, normal crankshaft rotation is clockwise. Warning: Before beginning this procedure, be sure to place the transmission in Neutral

and disconnect the BAT wire at the distributor cap to disable the ignition system. a) The preferred method is to turn the crankshaft with a large socket and breaker bar attached to the vibration damper bolt that is threaded into the front of the crankshaft. :

We

Fi

i

9.5 On later models, make a mark on the plenum directly

opposite the number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap (in this photo the number one on the wire retainer

has been highlighted with chalk for clarity)

b) A remote starter switch, which may save some time, can also be used. Attach the switch leads to the S (switch) and B (battery) terminals on the starter motor. Once the piston is close to TDC, use a socket and breaker bar as described in the previous paragraph. c) If an assistant is available to turn the ignition switch to the Start position in short bursts, you can get the piston close to TDC with-

Chapter 2 PartA

9.7 Turn the crankshaft until the line on the vibration damper is directly opposite the zero mark on the timing plate as shown here

9.8 If the rotor is pointing directly at the mark on the plenum or air cleaner housing, as shown here, the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke

out a remote starter switch. Use a socket and breaker bar as described in Paragraph a to complete the procedure. 4 On 1984 models, make a mark on the air cleaner assembly housing directly across from the number one spark plug wire terminal on the distributor. Note: The terminal numbers are marked on the spark plug wire retainer attached to the top of the distributor. 5 On later models, remove the screws and detach the distributor cover from the plenum. Using a felt tip pen, make a mark on the plenum directly across from the number one spark plug wire terminal on the distributor (see illustration). The terminal numbers are marked on the spark plug wire retainer attached to the top of the distributor. 6 Remove the distributor cap as described in Chapter 1. 7 Turn the crankshaft (see Paragraph 3 above) until the line on the vibration damper is aligned with the zero mark on the timing plate (see illustration). The timing plate and vibration damper are located low on the front of the engine, near the pulley that turns the drivebelt. 8 The rotor should now be pointing directly at the mark on the air cleaner housing or plenum (see illustration). If it isn’t, the piston is at TDC on the exhaust stroke. 9 To get the piston to TDC on the compression stroke, turn the crankshaft one complete turn (360-degrees) clockwise. The rotor should now be pointing. at the mark. When the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire terminal in the distributor cap (which is indicated by the mark on the plenum or housing) and the timing marks are aligned, the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. 10 After the number one piston has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the remaining cylinders can be located by turning the crankshaft 90-degrees at a time and following the firing order (refer to the Specifications).

1992 and later models 11.

Insert a compression gauge (screw-in type with a hose) in the

number 1 spark plug hole and zero it. Place the gauge dial where you can see it while turning the balancer hub bolt. 12 Turn the crankshaft until the arrow on the balancer approaches straight up (or 12 o’clock) (see illustration 14.9). If you see compression building up on the gauge, you are on the compression stroke for number one. Stop turning when the arrow is straight up. If you did not see compression build up, continue rotating one more complete revo-

lution to achieve TDC for number one. 13 After the number one piston has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the remaining cylinders can be located by turning the crankshaft 90-degrees (1/4-turn) at a time and following the firing order (refer to the Specifications). For example, turning 90-degrees past number one TDC would give you TDC for number eight cylinder, the next in the firing order.

2A-11

Engine

10.4 Use the recommended puller to remove the vibration damper - if a puller that applies force to the outer edge is used, the damper will be damaged

10.5 A putty knife can be used to break the timing chain cover-toblock seal, but do not pry it off as damage to the cover will result

10

Timing cover, chain and sprockets - removal and installation

1991 and earlier models Refer to illustrations 10.4, 10.5, 10.10, 10.11, 10.12 and 10.13 Removal 1 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the water pump. 2

Remove the bolts and separate the crankshaft drivebelt pulley

from the vibration damper. 3 Refer to Section 9 and position the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Caution: Once this has been done, do not turn the crankshaft until the timing chain and sprockets have been rein, Stalled.

4 Remove the bolt from the front of the crankshaft, then use a puller to detach the vibration damper (see illustration). Caution: Do not use a puller with jaws that grip the outer edge of the damper. The puller must be the type shown in the illustration that utilizes bolts to apply force to the damper hub only. 5 Remove the bolts and separate the timing chain cover from the block. It may be stuck; if so, use a putty knife to break the gasket seal (see illustration). The cover is easily distorted, so do not attempt to pry it off. -

6

Remove the three bolts from the end of the camshaft, then detach

Chapter 2 Part A

10.11

10.10 With the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke and the timing marks on the cam and crankshaft sprockets in the 12 o’clock positions, a straight line should pass through the camshaft timing mark, the center of the camshaft, the crankshaft

timing mark and the center of the crankshaft as shown here (the camshaft dowel pin, which is in the 9 o’clock position, is hidden by the ruler) the camshaft sprocket and chain as an assembly. The sprocket on the crankshaft can be removed with a two or three jaw puller, but be careful not to damage the threads in the end of the crankshaft. Note: /f the timing chain cover oil seal has been leaking, refer to Section 14 and install a new one.

Installation 7 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the cover and engine block. Stuff a shop rag into the opening at the front of the oil pan to keep debris out of the engine. Wipe the cover and block sealing surfaces with a cloth saturated with lacquer thinner or acetone.

8

Check the cover flange for distortion, particularly around the bolt

Engine

Be sure to apply Loctite to the camshaft sprocket bolts before tightening them to the specified torque

sive engine damage. 10 Loop the new chain over the camshaft sprocket, then turn the sprocket until the timing mark is in the 12 o’clock position. Mesh the chain with the crankshaft sprocket and position the camshaft sprocket on the end of the cam. If necessary, turn the camshaft so the dowel pin fits into the sprocket hole with the timing mark in the 12 o’clock position. When correctly installed, the marks on the sprockets will be aligned as shown in the accompanying illustration. Note: The number one piston must be at TDC on the compression stroke as the chain and sprockets are installed (see Paragraph 3 above). 11. Apply Loctite to the camshaft sprocket bolt threads, then install and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). Lubricate the chain with clean engine oil. 12 Check the oil pan-to-block joints to make sure that all excess sealant is removed (see illustration). 13 Apply RTV sealant to the U-shaped channel on the bottom of the cover, then position a new rubber oil pan seal in the channel (the sealant should hold it in place as the cover is installed) (see illustra-

holes. If necessary, place the cover on a block of wood and use a ham-

tion).

mer to flatten and restore the gasket surface. 9 If new parts are being installed, be sure to align the keyway in the crankshaft sprocket with the Woodruff key in the end of the crankshaft. Press the sprocket onto the crankshaft with the vibration damper bolt, a large socket and some washers or tap it gently into place until it is completely seated. Caution: /f resistance is encountered, do not hammer the sprocket onto the crankshart. It may eventually move onto the shaft, but it may be cracked in the process and fail later, causing exten-

14 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to both sides of the new gasket, then position it on the engine block (the dowel pins and sealant will hold it in place).

10.12 Old sealant at the block-to-oil pan junctions will prevent the timing chain cover from forming an oil tight seal

15

Since the oil pan seal in the bottom of the cover must be com-

pressed in order to position the cover over the dowel pins and thread the bolts into the block, the cover is nearly impossible to install unless the oil pan is removed first. It can be done, but it is very difficult, time consuming and frustrating.

10.13

Use RTV sealant to retain the new rubber oil pan seal (arrow) in the timing chain cover

Chapter 2 PartA

2A-13

Engine

24017-2C-10.5b HAYNES

10.23a On spline type drives, paint a match mark to line up the spline shaft sticking out of the front cover for faster assembly, although it is keyed and will only go into the cover one way 16 Refer to Section 12 and remove the oil pan, then install the timing chain cover. After the cover bolts have been tightened securely, reinstall the oil pan. 17 Lubricate the oil seal contact surface of the vibration damper hub with moly-base grease or clean engine oil, then install the damper on the end of the crankshaft. The keyway in the damper must be aligned with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft nose. If the damper cannot be seated by hand, slip a large washer over the bolt, install the bolt and

tighten it to push the damper into place. Remove the large washer and tighten the bolt to the specified torque. 18 The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal.

1992 and later models Refer to illustrations 10.23a, 10.23b, 10.24, 10.26, 10.29 and 10.33

Removal

10.23b The later type distributor drive uses a long pin on the camshaft which fits into a slot (1) on the back of the distributor align it with the mark (2) for TDC assembly the pan is lowered. In this case the pan should be removed and a new gasket installed (see Section 12). 23 Remove the distributor (see Chapter 5). There are two types of distributor drives on the V8 engines: the spline-type or “type 1”, and the pin-type or “type 2” (on 1995 and later models). On the spline-type, the distributor is driven by a splined shaft coming out of the front cover and driven by the camshaft gear. On these models, the short splined shaft may come out of the front cover when the distributor is removed. It will only go back in one way and the distributor will only go back onto it one way, due to key alignment splines. These distributors should not be turned while off the engine. On the later models, the camshaft has a

long pin sticking out, which meshes with a slot in the backside of the distributor. Alignment of these types is simpler (see illustrations). 24 Unbolt and remove the front cover (see illustration). 25 On 1996 models, remove the crankshaft position sensor reluctor ring, which is a disc over the crankshaft snout, noting which side faces the engine. 26

19 Refer to Chapter 3 and remove the water pump. 20 Refer to Section 3 and position the number one piston at TDC on the compression stroke. Caution: Once this has been done, do not turn the crankshaft until the timing chain and sprockets have been reinStalled. 21 Remove the crankshaft balancer and balancer hub (see Section 14). ; 22 The oil pan bolts will have to be loosened and the pan lowered slightly for the front cover to be removed. If the pan has been in place for an extended period of time it’s likely the pan gasket wiil break when

Remove the three bolts from the end of the camshaft, then detach

the camshaft sprocket and chain as an assembly (see illustration). 27 Using a jaw-type puller, remove the crankshaft sprocket.

Inspection 28 The timing chain should be replaced with a has high mileage, the chain has visible damage, way between the sprockets exceeds one-inch. worn timing chain may result in erratic engine power and decreased fuel mileage. Loose chains the worst case, chain “jumping” or breakage

new one if the engine or total freeplay midFailure to replace a performance, loss of can “jump” timing. In will result in severe

ree

10.24

Remove the front cover bolts and remove the cover

10.26

Unbolt and remove the camshaft sprocket lowering it to remove the sprocket and chain as an assembly

2A

2A-14

Chapter 2 Part A

10.29 Examine the camshaft sprocket teeth and the integral water pump drive gear teeth (arrow) on the back for wear engine damage. 29 Inspect the timing sprockets and water-pump drive gear (on the back of the cam gear) for worn, non-concentric teeth or wear in the valleys between the teeth (see illustration).

Installation 30 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the cover and engine block. Stuff a shop rag into the opening at the front of the oil pan to keep debris out of the engine. Clean the cover and block sealing surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Caution: Be careful when scraping the front cover; gouges in the soft aluminum could result in oil leaks. 31 Replace the O-ring on the outer end of the water-pump driveshaft (see Chapter 3). 32 The timing chain must be replaced as a set with the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. Never put a new chain on old sprockets. Align the sprocket with the Woodruff key and press the sprocket onto the crankshaft with a large socket or tap it gently into place until it is completely seated. Caution: /f resistance is encountered, do not hammer the sprocket onto the crankshaft. It may eventually move onto the shaft, but it may be cracked in the process and fail later, causing extensive engine damage. 33 Loop the new chain over the camshaft sprocket, then turn the sprocket until the timing mark is in the 6 o’clock position (see illustration). Mesh the chain with the crankshaft sprocket and position the camshaft sprocket on the end of the cam. If necessary, turn the camshaft so the dowel pin fits into the sprocket hole with the timing mark in the 6 o’clock position. Note: /f necessary, turn the water-pump driveshaft slightly to mesh its gear with the water-pump drive gear on the back of the camshaft sprocket. 34 Apply non-hardening thread locking compound to the camshaft sprocket bolt threads, then install and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Lubricate the chain with clean engine oil. 35 The one-piece oil pan gasket should be checked for cracks and deformation before installing the front cover. If the gasket has deteriorated it must be replaced before reinstalling the cover. 36 Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant to both sides of the new cover gasket, then position it on the engine block. The dowel pins and sealant will hold it in place. Caution: Wrap some plastic tape around the splines on the water-pump driveshaft to protect the cover seal dur-

ing installation. 37 Install the front cover on the block, tightening the bolts fingertight. 38 If the oil pan was removed, reinstall it (see Section 12). If it was only loosened, tighten the oil pan bolts, bringing the oil pan up against the front cover. 39 Tighten the front cover bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications.

Engine

10.33 Check the timing marks (arrows) before bolting the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft. The larger arrow indicates the splined distributor shaft in place on the cam gear

40 Lubricate the oil seal contact surface of the crankshaft balancer hub with multi-purpose grease or clean engine oil, then install it on the end of the crankshaft. The keyway in the balancer hub must be aligned with the Woodruff key in the crankshaft nose. If the hub cannot be seated by hand, slip a large washer over the bolt, install the bolt and tighten it to push the hub into place. Remove the large washer and tighten the bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. 41 If plastic tape was used to install the water-pump-driveshaft Oring (see Chapter 3) remove the plastic tape from the water-pump driveshaft before installing the water pump. The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Caution: When reinstalling splinetype distributors, the distributor must go on smoothly and without much effort. It is possible to install the spline-type with improper alignment and force it on and tighten the bolts, but this will cause expensive damage to the parts. Wiggle the distributor slightly until you feel the spline actually engage fully before bolting down the distributor.

11

Camshaft, bearings and lifters - removal, inspection

and installation

.

Refer to illustrations 11.3, 11.11, 11.12, 11.15, 11.18a, 11.18b, 11.18c,

11.20, 11.23 and 11.25

Camshaft lobe lift check 1 In order to determine the extent of cam lobe wear, the lobe lift should be checked prior to camshaft removal. Refer to Section 3 and remove the rocker arm covers. 2

Position the number

one

piston at TDC

on the compression

stroke (see Section 9). 3 Beginning with the number one cylinder valves, mount a dial indicator on the engine and position the plunger against the top surface of the first rocker arm. The plunger should be directly above and in line with the pushrod (see illustration). 4 Zero the dial indicator, then very slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation until the indicator needle stops and begins to move in the opposite direction. The point at which it stops indicates maximum cam lobe lift. 5 Record this figure for future reference, then reposition the piston at TDC on the compression stroke.

6 Move the dial indicator to the remaining number one cylinder rocker arm and repeat the check. Be sure to record the results for each

valve.

7 Repeat the check for the remaining valves. Since each piston must be at TDC on the compression stroke for this procedure, work from cylinder-to-cylinder following the firing order sequence.

Chapter 2 PartA

Engine

11.11 11.3 When checking the camshaft lobe lift, the dial indicator plunger must be positioned directly above the pushrod

The lifters on an engine that has accumulated many miles

may have to be removed with a special tool - be sure to store the lifters in an organized manner to make sure they are reinstalled in their original locations

11.12 Along bolt can be threaded into one of the camshaft bolt holes to provide a handle for removal and installation of the camshaft

11.15 The camshaft bearing journal diameter is checked to pinpoint excessive wear and out-of-round conditions

8 After the check is complete, compare 'the results to the Specifications. If camshaft Jobe lift is less than specified, cam lobe wear has occurred and a new camshaft should be installed.

sprocket bolt holes to use as a handle when removing the camshaft from the block (see illustration). 13 Carefully pull the camshaft out. Support the cam near the block so the lobes do not nick or gouge the bearings as it is withdrawn.

Removal 9 Refer to the appropriate Sections and remove the intake manifold, the rocker arms, the pushrods and the timing chain and camshaft sprocket. The radiator should be removed as well (Chapter 3). 10 There are several ways to extract the lifters from the bores. A special tool designed to grip and remove lifters is manufactured by many tool companies and is widely available, but it may not be required in every case. On newer engines without a lot of varnish buildup, the lifters can often be removed with a small magnet or even with your fingers. A machinist’s scribe with a bent end can be used to pull the lifters out by positioning the point under the retainer ring in the top of each lifter. Caution: Do not use pliers to remove the lifters unless you intend to replace them with new ones (along with the camshaft). The pliers will damage the precision machined and hardened lifters, rendering them useless. 11 Before removing the lifters, arrange to store them in a clearly labeled box to ensure that they are reinstalled in their original locations. Remove the lifters and store them where they will not get dirty (see illustration). Do not attempt to withdraw the camshaft with the lifters in place. 12 Thread a 6-inch long 5/16-18 bolt into one of the camshaft

Inspection Camshaft and bearings 14 After the camshaft has been removed from the engine, cleaned with solvent and dried, inspect the bearing journals for uneven wear, pitting and evidence of seizure. If the journals are damaged, the bearing inserts in the block are probably damaged as well: Both the camshaft and bearings will have to be replaced. 15 Measure the bearing journals with a micrometer (see illustration) to determine if they are excessively worn or out-of-round. 16 Check the camshaft lobes for heat discoloration, score marks, chipped areas, pitting and uneven wear. If the lobes are in good condition and if the lobe lift measurements are as specified, the camshaft can be reused.

Conventional lifters 17 Clean the lifters with solvent and dry them thoroughly without mixing them up. 18 Check each lifter wall, pushrod seat and foot for scuffing, score marks and uneven wear. Each lifter foot (the surface that rides on the

cam lobe) must be slightly convex, although this can be difficult to

Chapter 2 Part A

11.18a The foot of each lifter should be slightly convex - the side of another lifter can be used as a straightedge to check it; if it appears flat, it is worn and must not be reused

11.18b

Engine

If the bottom of any lifter is worn

11.18c

concave, scratched or galled, replace the entire set with new lifters

determine by eye. If the base of the lifter is concave (see illustrations), the lifters and camshaft must be replaced. If the lifter walls are damaged or worn (which is not very likely), inspect the lifter bores in the engine block as well. If the pushrod seats (see illustration) are worn, check the pushrod ends. 19 If new lifters are being installed, a new camshaft must also be installed. If a new camshaft is installed, then use new lifters as well.

Never install used lifters unless the original camshaft is used and the lifters can be installed in their original locations.

Check the pushrod seat (arrow) in the top of each lifter for wear

Roller lifters 20 Check the rollers carefully for wear and damage and make sure they turn freely without excessive play (see illustration). The inspection procedure for conventional lifters also applies to roller lifters. ; 21. Unlike conventional lifters, used roller lifters can be reinstalled with a new camshaft and the original camshaft can be used if new

lifters are installed.

Bearing replacement 22 Camshaft bearing replacement requires special tools and expertise that place it outside the scope of the home mechanic. Take the block to an Pe INS machine shop to ensure that the job is done correctly.

Installation 23 Lubricate the camshaft bearing journals and cam lobes with molybase grease or engine assembly lube (see illustration). 24 Slide the camshaft into the engine. Support the cam near the block and be careful not to scrape or nick the bearings. 25 Turn the camshaft until the dowel pin is in the 9 o’clock position (see illustration). 26 Refer to Section 10 and install the timing chain and sprockets. 27 Lubricate the lifters with clean engine oil and install them in the block. If the original lifters are being reinstalled, be sure to return them to their original locations. If a new camshaft was installed, be sure to

install new lifters as well (except for engines with roller lifters). 11.20 The roller on roller lifters must turn freely - check for wear and excessive play as well

11.23

Be sure to apply moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to the cam lobes and bearing journals before installing the camshaft

11.25 After the camshaft is in place, turn it until the dowel pin (arrow) is in the 9 o’clock position as shown here

.

Chapter 2 PartA

Engine

2A-17

OIL PAN A WA BAFFLE

SIDE GASKETS

12.10

Separate oil pan side gaskets and rubber end seals are used on 1984 and 1985 engines

28 _The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. 29 Before starting and running the engine, change the oil and install a new oil filter (see Chapter 1).

12

12.11 On 1986 and later models, the gasket (1) is a one-piece molded rubber part and reinforcement strips (2) are used on each side of the oil pan

Oil pan - removal and installation

Refer to illustrations 12.10 and 12.11 Note: The following procedure is based on the assumption that the engine is in place in the vehicle. If it has been removed, merely unbolt the oil pan and detach it from the block.

Removal 1 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then refer to Chapter 1 and drain the oil. On 1986 and later vehicles, remove the oil filter and the oil cooler adapter from the block. 2 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the starter motor. 3 Remove the cover from the lower part of the bellhousing. On 1986 and later vehicles, disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines at the

cover. 4 On later models, loosen the clamp and detach the catalytic converter AIR pipe from the manifold. Disconnect the oil cooler line at the oil pan, then remove the ESC sensor shield and the front crossmember

braces. 5 Remove the oil pan mounting bolts/nuts. Later models are equipped with a reinforcement strip on each side of the oil pan which may come loose after the bolts/nuts are removed. 6 Carefully separate the pan from the block. Do not pry between the block and pan or damage to the sealing surfaces may result and oil leaks may develop. Later models are equipped with a one-piece rubber gasket that can be reused if it isn’t damaged during removal. You may have to turn the crankshaft slightly to maneuver the front of the pan past the crank counterweights. :

Installation 7 Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of old gasket material and sealant from the pan and block (this doesn’t apply to later models with rubber gaskets). 8 Wipe the sealing surfaces with a cloth saturated with lacquer thinner or acetone. Make sure the bolt holes in the block are clean. 9 Check the oil pan flange for distortion, particularly around the bolt holes. If necessary, place the pan on a block of wood and use a hammer to flatten and restore the gasket surface.

10 Remove the old rubber seals from the rear main bearing cap and the timing chain cover, then clean the grooves and install new seals (this doesn’t apply to later models with rubber gaskets). Use RTV sealant or “Gaskacinch” contact cement to hold the new seals in place, then apply a bead of RTV sealant to the block-to-seal junctions. Use the same sealant to attach the new side gaskets to the oil pan (see illustration). 11 The rubber gasket used on later models should be checked carefully and replaced with a new one if damage is noted. Apply a small amount of RTV sealant to the corners of the semi-circular cutouts at both ends of the pan, then attach the rubber gasket to the pan (see illustration). 12 Carefully position the pan against the block and install the

bolts/nuts finger tight (don’t forget the reinforcement strips, if used). Make sure the seals and gaskets haven’t shifted, then tighten the bolts/nuts in three steps to the specified torque. Start at the center of the pan and work out toward the ends in a spiral pattern. 13 The remaining steps are the reverse of removal. Caution: Don’t forget to refill the engine with oil before starting it (see Chapter 1). 14 Start the engine and check carefully for oil leaks at the oil pan.

13

Oil pump - removal and installation

1 Remove the oil pan as described in Section 12. 2 While supporting the oil pump, remove the pump-to-rear main bearing cap bolt. On some models, the oil pan baffle must be removed first, since it is also held in place by the pump mounting bolt. 3 Lower the pump and remove it along with the pump driveshaft. 4 If a new oil pump is installed, make sure the pump driveshaft is mated with the shaft inside the pump. 5 Position the pump on the engine and make sure the slot in the upper end of the driveshaft is aligned with the tang on the lower end of

the distributor shaft. The distributor drives the oil pump, so it is absolutely essential that the components mate properly. 6 Install the mounting bolt and tighten it to the specified torque. if Install the oil pan.

Chapter 2 Part A

14.2 While supporting the cover near the seal bore, drive the old seal out from the inside with a hammer and punch or screwdriver

Engine

14.4 Clean the bore, then apply a small amount of oil to the outer edge of the seal and drive it squarely into the opening with a large socket and a hammer - do not damage the seal in the process!

14.9 Use a 2-pin spanner to hold the balancer while the three balancer bolts are removed (arrows); Note: The cast-in TDC arrow on the balancer (pointing at top TDC location)

g

14.11a The portion of the crank snout exposed inside the hub is too small for a standard puller’s beveled tip to fit into, so use a long Allen bolt that fits inside the crank threads (not threaded into them, but smaller) - The puller will then press against the sockethead of the Allen bolt - Arrows indicate the TDC mark on the hub and the cover rib it must align with, since the hub has no keyway

14

Crankshaft oil seals - replacement

14.11b Most standard pullers will have to be adapted with four 5/16 inch bolts and nuts to attached to the balancer hub, with the puller’s beveled tip fitting into the Allen bolt

is completely seated (see illustration). Select a socket that is the same outside diameter as the seal (a section of pipe can be used if a socket is not available). 5 Reinstall the timing chain cover.

1992 and later models

Front seal Refer to illustrations 14.2, 14.4, 14.9, 14.11a, 14.11b, 14.12 and 14.14

1991 and earlier 1 Remove the timing chain cover as described in Section 10. 2 _ Use a punch or screwdriver and hammer to drive the seal out of the cover from the backside. Support the cover as close to the seal bore as possible (see illustration). Be careful not to distort the cover or scratch the wall of the seal bore. If the engine has accumulated a lot of miles, apply penetrating oil to the seal-to-cover joint on each side and allow it to soak in before attempting to drive the seal out. 3 Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Support the cover on blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing in. A small amount of oil

applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make installation easier don’t overdo it! 4

Drive the seal into the bore with a large socket and hammer until it

6 Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Note: Unless you have a factory puller for the balancer hub, this procedure will be time consuming, as the distributor and water pump may have to be removed (see Step 11). 7 — Remove the serpentine drivebelt belt (see Chapter 1). 8 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 9 Remove the three balancer bolts and the balancer (see illustration). A puller is not required to remove the balancer. 10 Apply matchmarks on the balancer hub and the front cover, and remove the balancer hub bolt. Caution: Once the matchmarks have been applied, do not turn the crankshaft until the balancer has been reinstalled. When loosening this bolt, prevent the crankshaft from turning by wedging a large screwdriver into the ring gear teeth of the flywheel/driveplate. 11 Use a bolt-type puller to remove the balancer hub (see illustra-

tions). Because the bolt holes in the hub are larger than most standard pullers will allow, you will have to use three, four-inch-long (grade 8) 5/16-inch bolts and nuts to use a standard puller, along with a foure

Chapter 2 PartA

14.12

Carefully pry the old seal out of the front cover - don’t damage the crank surface

Engine

14.14 Use a special seal installing tool or drive the seal in carefully and evenly with a large socket and hammer

.004 SHIM STOCK es

Palas 11/64

14.21 If the new seal did not include an installation tool, make one from a piece of brass shim stock 0.004-inch thick

14.19 Tap the seal end with a brass punch or wood dowel and hammer (left), until it can be gripped with a pair of pliers and pulled out (right)

inch-long (grade 8) 5/16-inch Allen bolt to fit into the crank snout. Because of the clearance around the distributor, it is safest to remove the water pump (see Chapter 3) and distributor (see Chapter 5) first, which also exposes the portion of the front cover with the “TDC” rib for aligning the keyless hub when reinstalling it. 12 Carefully pry the seal out of the cover with a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver (see illustration). Be careful not to distort the cover or scratch the wall of the seal bore. 13 Clean the bore to remove any old seal material and corrosion. Position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN. A small amount of oil applied to the outer edge of the new seal will make installation easier - don’t overdo it! 14 Drive the seal into the bore with GM tool no. J-23042A or a large socket and hammer until it’s completely seated (see illustration). Select a socket that’s the same outside diameter as the seal. 15 Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil and reinstall the balancer hub, lining up the matchmarks. The remaining installation steps are the reverse of removal. Note: /f the balancer is being replaced, be sure to transfer the bolt-on balancer weights from the old balancer to the same

18 The seal section in the bearing cap can be pried out with a screwdriver. 19 To remove the seal section in the block, tap on one end with a hammer and brass punch or wood dowel until the other end protrudes far enough to grip it with a pair of pliers and pull it out (see illustration). Be very careful not to nick or scratch the crankshaft journal or seal surface as this is done. 20 _ Inspect the bearing cap and engine block mating surfaces, as well as the cap seal grooves, for nicks, burrs and scratches. Remove any defects with a fine file or deburring tool. 21 Asmall seal installation tool is usually included when a new seal is purchased. If you didn’t receive one, they can also be purchased separately at most auto parts stores or you can make one from an old feeler gauge or a piece of brass shim stock (see illustration). 22 Using the tool, install one seal section in the cap with the lip facing the front of the engine (if the seal has two lips, the one with the

positions on the new balancer.

Rear seal Refer to illustrations 14.19, 14.21, 14.22a, 14.22b, 14.23, 14.24, and

14.26

1984 and 1985 models 16 The rear main seal on these models can be replaced with the engine in the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate Sections and remove the oil pan and oil pump.

17. Remove the bolts and detach the rear main bearing cap from the engine.

14.22a

Using the tool like a “shoehorn”, attach the seal section to

the bearing cap...

2A-20

14.22b ... with the oil seal lip pointing toward the front of the engine

Chapter 2 Part A

Engine

14.23 Position the tool to protect the backside of the seal as it passes over the sharp edge of the ridge - note that the seal straddles the ridge

helix must face the front) (see illustrations). The ends should be flush with the mating surface of the cap. Make sure it is completely seated. 23 Position the narrow end of the tool so that it will protect the backside of the seal as it passes over the sharp edge of the ridge in the block (see illustration). 24 Lubricate the seal lips and the groove in the backside with molybase grease or clean engine oil - do not get any lubricant on the seal ends. Insert the seal into the block, over the tool (see illustration). Caution: Make sure that the lip points toward the front of the engine when the seal is installed. 25 Push the seal into place, using the tool like a “shoehorn”. Turning the crankshaft may help to draw the seal into place. When both ends of the seal are flush with the block surface, remove the tool. 26 Apply a thin, even coat of anaerobic-type gasket sealant to the areas of the cap or block indicated in the accompanying illustration. Do not get any sealant on the bearing face, crankshaft journal, seal ends or seal lips. Also, lubricate the cap seal lips with moly-base grease or clean engine oil. 27 Carefully position the bearing cap on the block, install the bolts and tighten them to 10-to-12 ft-lbs only. Tap the crankshaft forward

and backward with a lead or brass hammer to line up the main bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces, then tighten the rear bearing cap bolts to the specified torque. 28 Install the oil pump and oil pan.

14.24

Make sure the seal lip faces the

front of the engine and hold the tool in place to protect the seal as it is installed

between the jack head and the oil pan, then carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts. 4 Check the mounts to see if the rubber is cracked, hardened or separated from the metal plates. Sometimes the rubber will split right down the center. Rubber preservative or WD-40 should be applied to the mounts to slow deterioration. 5 Check for relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame (use a large screwdriver or pry bar to attempt to move the mounts). If movement is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners.

Replacement 6 Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery, then raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. 7 — Remove the nut and withdraw the mount through bolt from the frame bracket. 8 If you are replacing the right-hand mount, disconnect the catalytic converter AIR pipe at the exhaust manifold, exhaust pipe and con,

verter.

9 Raise the engine slightly, then remove the mount-to-block bolts and detach the mount. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal. Use Locktite on the mount bolts and be sure to tighten them securely.

1986 and later models 29 Later models are equipped with a one-piece seal that requires an entirely different installation procedure. The transmission and oil pan must be removed to gain access to the seal housing. Once the housing is removed, the seal replacement procedure in Chapter 2, Part B, Section 22 can be followed.

15

Engine mounts - check and replacement

1 Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately or the added strain

placed on the driveline components may cause damage.

Check 2 During the check, the engine must be raised slightly to remove the weight from the mounts. On 1991 and earlier models, refer to Chapter 1 and remove the distributor cap before raising the engine. 3 Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then position the jack under the engine oil pan. Place a large block of wood

APPLY SEALANT TO THESE TWO AREAS 14.26 Before installing the rear main bearing cap, apply the specified sealant to the shaded areas of the block (or the equivalent areas on the cap)

2B-1

Chapter 2 Part B General engine overhaul procedures Contents Section

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|| Periodically inspect the entire length of each battery cable for damage, cracked or burned insulation and corrosion. Poor battery cable connections can cause starting problems and decreased engine performance.

2

Check the cable-to-terminal

connections

at the ends of the

cables for cracks, loose wire strands and corrosion. The presence of

white, fluffy deposits under the insulation at the cable terminal connection is a sign that the cable is corroded and should be replaced. Check the terminals for distortion, missing mounting bolts and corrosion. 3 If only the positive cable is to be replaced, be sure to disconnect the negative cable from the battery first. 4

Disconnect and remove the cable. Make sure that the replace-

ment cable is the same length and diameter. 5 Clean the threads of the starter or ground connection with a wire brush to remove rust and corrosion. Apply a light coat of petroleum jelly to the threads to ease installation and prevent future corrosion.

6 Attach the cable to the starter or ground connection and tighten the mounting nut securely. 7

5.2 To test the HEI system with a calibrated ignition tester, pull off any plug boot, push it onto the tester, clip the tester to a metal bracket, crank the engine and see if a spark jumps from the center electrode of the tester to the cylinder surrounding it

Before connecting the new cable to the battery, make sure that it

reaches the terminal without having to be stretched. 8 , Connect the positive cable first, followed by the negative cable.

5

Ignition system - check

e

Warning: Because of the very high voltage generated by the secondary ignition system, extreme care should be taken whenever an operation is performed involving ignition components. This not only includes the distributor, coil, control module and spark plug wires, but related items such as the electrical connections, tachometer and any test equipment.

_ HEI system (1991 and earlier models) Refer to illustration 5.2

1 If the engine will not start even though it turns over, check for spark at the spark plug by installing a calibrated ignition system tester to one of the spark plug wires. Note: The tool is available at most auto parts stores. Be sure to get the correct tool for your particular ignition system (HE]). 2 Connect the clip on the tester to a ground such as a metal bracket or valve cover bolt, crank the engine and watch the end of the tester for bright blue, well defined sparks (see illustration). 3 If sparks occur, sufficient voltage is reaching the plugs to fire the engine. However the plugs themselves may be fouled, so remove and

check them as described in Chapter 1 or replace them with new ones.

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

IGNITION SYSTEM TEST CONNECTOR

PCM DISTRIBUTOR REFERENCE LOW | SIGNAL _ DISTRIBUTOR | IGNITION FEED | HIGH RESOLUTION ' SIGNAL LOW RESOLUTION Ss L

IGNITION COIL MODULE

TO

IGNITION 10 AMP BLACK'GONNEGTOR | |

PNK

1

GRAY CONNECTORS

ios WHT/BLK

24017-5-6.5B HAYNES

BLACK

5.12a

CONNECTOR

Ignition schematic for the Distributor Ignition (Dl) system

4 If no sparks occur, the distributor cap, rotor or spark plug wires may be defective. Remove the distributor cap and check the cap, rotor and spark plug wires as described in Chapter 1. Check the carbon button in the center of the cap for proper contact with the rotor. Replace defective parts as necessary. 5 If moisture is present in the distributor cap, use WD-40 or something similar to dry out the cap and rotor, then reinstall the cap and repeat the spark test at the spark plug wire. 6 If no sparks occur, check the primary wire connections at the distributor cap to make sure they are clean and tight. Check for voltage to the ignition coil (BAT terminal on the distributor cap connection). Bat-

tery voltage should be available to the ignition coil with the ignition

switch ON. Note: /f the reading is 7 volts or less, repair the primary cir- cuit from the ignition switch to the ignition coil. 7 If there’s still no spark, check the ignition module (the ignition module requires special test equipment to test, many auto parts stores will perform this test for you - see Section 7 for removal). Check the ignition pick-up coil (See Section 8) and the ignition coil (see Section 9). Replace the defective parts as necessary.

Distributor Ignition (DI) system (1992 and later models)

No start condition 12 An accompanying diagnostic chart (see illustrations) diagrams the following testing procedures for the Distributor Ignition (Dl) ignition system. Also shown is an electrical schematic of the ignition system including the module, distributor and ECM. . 13 Test 1: At least two plug wires are checked to make sure there is the proper output from the distributor ignition system. Ensure that an open is not present in a spark plug wire. : 14 Test 2: A spark indicates that the problem must be the distributo r unit. This test separates the ignition wires from the ignition coil. Note:

A few sparks followed by no spark is the same condition as no spark at

all. 15 Test 3: Normally, there should be battery voltage at the “A” and “D” terminals (see illustration). Low voltage indicates an open or high resistance circuit from the distributor to the coil or ignition switch (primary ignition circuit). 16 Test 4: Checks for a voltage signal to the module from the ECM while the engine is cranking. This test will eliminate the ECM asa source of the problem. If there is voltage signal present, a no start con-

Refer to illustrations 5.12a, 5.12b, 5.15, 5.17, 5.18a and 5.18b 8 Check all ignition wiring connections for tightness, cuts, corrosion or any other signs of a bad connection. A faulty or poor connection at a spark plug could also result in a misfire. Also check for carbon deposits inside the spark plug boots. Remove the spark plugs, if necessary, and check for fouling. 9

Check for ignition and battery supply to the ECM. Check the igni-

tion fuses (see Chapter 12). 10 Use a calibrated ignition tester to verify adequate available sec-

ondary voltage (25,000 volts) at the spark plug (see illustration 5.2).

Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the spark plug wires)

Each wire should measure less than 30,000 ohms. 11 Check to see if the fuel pump and relay are operating properly (see Chapter 4). The fuel pump should activate for two seconds when the ignition key is cycled ON. Install an injector test light and monitor the blinks as the injector voltage signal pulses (see Chapter 4, Fue/

Injection System - check).

5.15

Disconnect the ignition module connector and check for battery voltage on the pink/black wire (termin al A)

Chapter 5

5-5

Engine electrical systems

STEP 1 * Connect a spark tester to a spark plug wire (see Illustration 6.3) and check for a well-defined, blue

spark while an assistant is cranking the engine. If there is no spark on one wire, check another plug wire until at least two are firing correctly

STEP 2 *Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester while an

assistant is cranking the engine

*Check the fuel system (see Chapter 4), spark plugs,

ignition wires etc (see Chapter 1)

STEP 3 * First check the ignition coil (see Section 7) * Second, disconnect the ignition module connector and with the key ON (engine

not running), check the voltage at terminals A and D on the harness side of the connector

10 VOLTS OR MORE

* Check the On Board Diagnosis (OBD) system for a code 16. Possible defective distributor unit. Have the Di system checked at a dealer service department

UNDER 10 VOLTS

“STEP 4 * Change the voltmeter to the A/C scale and measure the voltage on terminal B while the engine is cranking

* Check for a faulty circuit from the ignition module to the ignition coil * Check for a grounded external coil circuit

1 to 4 VOLTS 0 VOLTS

STEP 5 * With the ignition key OFF, disconnect the module connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive (+) battery terminal

* Have the ECM/PCM checked at a dealer service department

and probe terminal C on the harness side of the connector - the test light should illuminate

TEST LIGHT OFF

TEST LIGHT ON

STEP 6

* Check the ground wire in the

* Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the body using a suitable jumper wire

harness to the module

* Connect the LED type test light onto the distributor harness connector red wire (terminal C) and observe the flashing light as an assistant cranks the engine over

TEST LIGHT FLASHES NO FLASHES ON TEST LIGHT

STEP 7 * Replace the ignition module (see Section 9)

* Have the distributor unit checked at a dealer service department 24017-5-6.5a HAYNES

5.12b

Diagnostic flow chart for checking the DI system for a NO START CONDITION

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

5.17 Connect the test light to the battery positive (+) terminal and probe terminal C. The light should illuminate to indicate a good

5.18a Check for a pulsing voltage signal from the module on the red wire (+) by backprobing the distributor electrical connector

ground circuit

6 Distributor - removal and installation Ne EE eee ree eee Wal aa

1991 and earlier models Removal

5.18b

Remove the coil secondary wire and ground the coil to the engine using a suitable jumper wire

dition will most likely be caused by a faulty module. Continue testing. If there is no voltage signal from the ECM, replace the computer (see

Chapter 6).

17 Test 5: This will check for a complete ground wire from the ignition module. The test light should illuminate when touched to the connector terminal C (see illustration). If there is no light, check the wiring harness for an open or shorted circuit. 18 Test 6: This test will check for the pulsing signal voltage from the ignition distributor after it has been triggered by the ECM. Have an assistant crank over the engine while observing the LED test light (see illustration). Be sure to remove the coil secondary wire and ground the coil to the engine using a suitable jumper wire (see illustration). There should be a steady and obvious flashing LED light. Regular 12 volt test lights can be used but the bulb may not respond brightly and clearly as the LED test light. 19 Test 7: If all the tests results are correct except Step 6 and there

still is a NO START condition, it will be very difficult to distinguish a

faulty distributor unit from a faulty ignition module. In most cases, the

ignition module when defective, will not produce a pulsing voltage signal with symptoms of a definite start or no-start condition while a faulty DI unit will produce intermittent ignition failures when the engine is running. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop for diagnosis. Note: Refer to Chapter 6 and check the On-Board Diagnosis (OBD) system for the presence of code 16 or 36, which may indicate a fault in the DI system.

Refer to illustrations 6.4 and 6.5 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 If your vehicle is equipped with Crossfire throttle body injection (1984), remove the air cleaner. 3 If your vehicle is equipped with Tuned Port Injection (1985 through 1991), remove the three distributor shield Torx screws and the shield from the rear of the plenum. 4 Using your thumbs, push the latches on the spark plug wire retaining ring away from the coil cover (see illustration) to release the ring, then lift it slightly. 5 Push down on the spark plug wire boots (see illustration) to detach the boots from their respective holes in the ring. Remove the ring. Note that the holes for the plug wires and the wires themselves are numbered. The wires must be installed in exactly the same holes from which they were removed. 6 Detach the spark plug wires from the distributor cap. 7 Unscrew the four screws attaching the distributor cap to the distributor base and rotate the cap slightly to move the electrical terminal on the underside of the cap away from the firewall. 8 Disconnect the ignition switch battery feed wire, the tachometer lead and the coil electrical connector (three-wire plug) from the cap. 9 Remove the distributor cap. 10 Using a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft damper bolt,

rotate the crankshaft until the piston in the number one cylinder is at

top dead center (TDC). Refer to Chapter 2 if necessary.

11.

Mark the alignment of the distributor housing to the manifold.

Mark the position of the rotor to the distributor housing. 12 Remove the hold down clamp bolt and the Clamp. 13 _ Lift the distributor up slightly and disconnect the four-wire electrical connector. 14 Remove the distributor. Note: Do not turn the crankshaft once

you have removed the distributor or the engine will have to be re-timed.

Installation 15 Insert the distributor into the engine in exactly the same relationship to the block in which it was removed. Note: /f the cranksha ft was turned with the distributor removed, Position the engine with number one cylinder at TDC (see Chapter 2A) and install the distribut or with the rotor pointing at the number one spark plug wire terminal. 16 Reconnect the four-wire electrical connector before proceeding to the next Step (you will not be able to get at this connect or once the distributor is properly seated).

Chapter 5

6.4 To disconnect the the distributor cap, latches away from the on the

retaining ring from push the locking coil cap and pull up ring

Engine electrical systems

6.5 To remove the ring, pop the eight spark plug wire boots loose by pushing them out of their holes in the ring

17 To mesh the helical gears on the camshaft and the distributor, it may be necessary to turn the rotor slightly. If the distributor does not seat completely against the manifold, it’s because the lower end of the distributor shaft is not mating properly with the oil pump shaft. 18 Recheck the alignment marks between the distributor housing and the manifold to make sure that the distributor is aligned with the manifold in the same position it was in before removal. Also check the

rotor to make sure that it is aligned with the mark you made on the housing to make sure that it too is in the same position that it was in before you removed it. 19 Using a socket and a breaker bar on the crankshaft damper bolt, turn the engine in its normal direction of rotation. Because the gear on the distributor shaft is engaged with the gear on the camshaft, their relationship to one another will not change as long as the distributor is not lifted from the engine. Therefore, the rotor will turn but the oil pump shaft willsnot, because the two shafts are not yet engaged. When the tang on the end of the distributor shaft and the slot on the end of the oil pump shaft are aligned, the distributor will drop down over the oil pump shaft and the distributor housing will seat properly against the manifold. 20 With the base of the distributor properly seated against the intake manifold, turn the distributor housing to align the marks made on the distributor base and the manifold. 21 With the distributor marks aligned, the rotor should be pointing at the alignment mark you made on the distributor housing before removal. 22 Place the hold down clamp in position and loosely install the bolt.

23

Install the distributor cap and the four screws that attach the cap

to the housing. Tighten them securely. 24 Plug in the three-wire electrical connector to the coil. 25 Reconnect the ignition switch battery feed wire and tachometer lead to the distributor cap. 26 Reattach the spark plug wires to the distributor cap. The wires are numbered. Make sure that they are reconnected to the same towers from which they were removed. 27 Push the spark plug wire retaining ring back onto the spark plug wire boots. A small screwdriver is helpful for pushing the tops of the boots back into the holes in the retaining ring. 28 Push the locking tabs on the retaining ring until they snap into the cover. 29 If your vehicle is equipped with Tuned Port Injection (1985 on), install the three distributor shield Torx screws and the shield onto the rear of the plenum. 30 If your vehicle is equipped with Crossfire throttle body injection (1984), install the air cleaner. 31 Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. 32 Check the ignition timing (Chapter 1) and tighten the distributor hold down bolt.

6.37 The DI system distributor is retained by three bolts (arrows)

1992 and later Removal Refer to illustration 6.37 33 Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. 34 Remove the water pump (See Chapter 3). 35 Remove the drivebelt pulley from the crankshaft (see Chapter 2A). 36 Remove the spark plug wires from the distributor. 37 Remove the distributor retaining bolts (see illustration). 38 Remove the distributor from the engine.

Installation 39 Clean the water pump gasket surfaces on the engine block and water pump. Glue new gaskets to the water pump, do not install the pump at this time. 40 Insert the distributor unit onto the splined (or doweled, depending on year) shaft exactly the same relation to the block in which it was removed. To mesh the splines, it may be necessary to turn the distributor unit slightly and wiggle the unit until it slides completely onto the spline and meets the engine block. Note: The splined shaft can be removed for cleaning. In the event the splined shaft gets inadvertently rearranged, it can be inserted into the engine block either direction without assembly trouble. Caution: Do not install the distributor bolts and tighten the unit in such a way as to pull (press) the distributor gears onto the spline. This will damage the distributor assembly. 41 Install the bolts securely. 42 Install the crankshaft pulley. 43 Install the water pump, hoses and drive belt (see Chapter 3). 44 Install the distributor ignition wires and coil wire. 45 Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. 46 Refill the cooling system, start the engine, check for coolant leaks.

7

Ignition module - replacement

1991 and earlier models Refer to illustrations 7.4 and 7.6 Note: /t is not necessary to remove the distributor from the engine to replace the ignition module. 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 2 Remove the distributor cap (Section 6). 3 Mark the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing. Remove the rotor retaining screws and the rotor.

5-8

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

SILICONE LUBRICANT HERE

2

7.4 To remove the module, remove the two mounting screws (1) and unplug the two electrical connectors (2)

4 Remove both module mounting screws and detach the module from the distributor (see illustration). 5 Disconnect both wire harnesses from the module. Note that they cannot be interchanged.

6

Do not wipe the grease from the module or the distributor base if

the same module is to be reinstalled. If a new module is to be installed,

a package of silicone grease will be included with it. Wipe the distributor base and the new module clean, then apply the silicone grease to the face of the module and the distributor base where the module seats (see illustration). This grease is necessary for heat dissipation. Note: The module cannot be tested without a module tester. /f you suspect that the module is malfunctioning, have it checked by a dealer service department. 7 Installation is the reverse of removal.

1992 and later models 8 The ignition module is located on the ignition coil mounting bracket at the front of the right cylinder head. 9 disconnect the module electrical connector, 10 Remove the two module mounting screws and remove the module. 11 Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to apply a thin coat of silicone dielectric grease to the back of the module where it contacts the coil bracket.

7.6 If you are installing a new module, apply silicone grease (included with the module) to the spot on which the module is mounted

ee

ee 8 Ignition pick-up coil - test and replacement : ———— EE EE eee Refer to illustrations 8.3, 8.4, 8.7, 8.9 and 8.10 Note: This procedure applies to 1991 and earlier models only. 1 Remove the distributor cap (Section 6). 2 Remove the rotor and disconnect the pick-up coil wires from the module.

Test 3 Connect an ohmmeter to each terminal of the pick-up coil wire and ground it to the distributor base (see illustration). The ohmmeter reading should indicate infinite resistance. If it doesn’t, the pick-up coil is defective. 4 Connect the ohmmeter between both terminals of the pick-up coil connector (see illustration). Flex the wires by hand to check for intermittent opens. The ohmmeter reading should indicate one steady value within the 500 to 1500 ohm range as the wires are flexed. If it doesn’t, the pick-up coil is defective. 5 _ If the pick-up coil fails either test, replace it.

Replacement 6 Remove the distributor. Mark the distributor shaft and gear so that they can be reassembled in the same position. &

bail the terminals of the pick-up coil connector and ground the other lead to the distributor base

8.4 Place the leads in both terminals of the pick-up coil connector and flex the wires by hand to check for intermittent opens

Chapter 5 Engine electrical systems

5-9

SHAFT ASSEMBLY

REMOVED

=

THREE ATTACHING SCREWS

MAGNETIC SHIELD

8.7 Place the distributor in a bench vise and drive out the roll pin which locks the drive gear to the bottom of the shaft

eet JEEZ Ct eee = a

PICKUP COIL LEADS DISCONNECTED FROM MODULE

8.9 Remove the three screws attaching the magnetic shield to

ge

8.10 Remove the C-clip retaining the pick-up coil/magnet/pole

the distributor base and remove the shield

piece assembly and remove the assembly from the distributor

7 Secure the distributor shaft housing in a bench vise and drive out the roll pin with a hammer and punch (see illustration). 8 Remove the gear and tanged washer, then pull the shaft from the

distributor. 9 Remove the three attaching screws and detach the magnetic shield (see illustration). 10 Remove the C-clip (see illustration) and detach the pick-up coil, magnet and pole piece. 11 Install the new pick-up coil, magnet and pole piece assembly. 12 Install the shaft. Make sure that it’s clean and lubricated, 13 Install the tanged washer (with the tangs facing up), the drive gear and the roll pin. 14 Spin the shaft to ensure that the teeth on the distributor shaft do not touch the teeth on the pick-up coil pole piece. 15 If the teeth touch, loosen, adjust and retighten the pole piece to eliminate contact. 16 Install the distributor in the engine (Section 6). 17 Install the rotor and cap (Section 6).

9

Ignition coil - test, removal and installation

1991 and earlier models R efer to illustrations 9.3, ie 9.4a, 9: ; 5, 9.6 9. an d 9.8 9.4b, 9.5, Test

9.3 Test #1: To check the coil, connect an ohmmeter to the tachometer and battery lead terminals of the cap coil assembly if the reading doesn’t indicate zero or nearly zero ohms, replace the coil

PR

es

:

ace

:

aye

the cap upside

ae

down so that you can see the spade type

coil terminals inside the hood protruding from the coil cap. Connect an

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

ohmmeter to both terminals of the cap coil assembly (see illustration). The ohmmeter reading should indicate zero resistance. If it doesn’t,

2

Remove the distributor cap (Section 6).

replace the coil.

5

5-10

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

9.4a Test #2: Connect the ohmmeter between the tachometer terminal of the cap coil assembly and the center electrode of the distributor cap...

9.5 Remove these two screws (arrows) to detach the coil cover 4 Connect the ohmmeter between each of the terminals and the center contact of the distributor cap (see illustrations). Be sure to use the high scale. If both ohmmeter readings indicate infinite resistance, replace the coil.

Removal and installation 5 Remove the coil cover attaching screws (see illustration) and lift off the cover. 6 Push the coil assembly leads through the top of the hood with a small screwdriver (see illustration). 7 Remove the ignition coil mounting screws and lift the coil, with the leads, from the cap. 8 Remove the ignition coil arc seal (see illustration). 9 Clean the coil housing and the rest of the cap with a soft cloth and inspect the cap for defects. Replace if necessary. 10 Install the arc seal. 11 Install the new coil and tighten the mounting screws securely. 12 Install the coil cover on the cap and tighten the screws securely. 13 Install the distributor cap on the distributor (Section 6).

14

Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery.

9.4b

... then connect the ohmmeter between the ground terminal of the cap coil assembly and the center electrode of the

distributor cap - if both readings indicate infinite resistance, replace the coil

9.6 Before disconnecting the coil assembly from the cap, push the spade connectors out of the hood with a small screwdriver

17 Using an ohmmeter on the low scale, connect the leads to the primary terminals on the ignition coil. The ohmmeter should indicate a very low resistance value. Refer to the Specifications listed in the beginning of this Chapter. If it doesn’t, replace the coil. 18 Using the high scale, connect one lead to the ignition coil primary terminal and the other lead to the secondary terminal. The ohmmeter

should not indicate an infinite resistance. Refer to the Specifications listed in the beginning of this Chapter. If it does, replace the coil.

Removal and installation 19 Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. 20 Unplug the coil high tension wire and both electrical leads from the coil. 21 Remove both mounting nuts and remove the coil from the engine. 22 Installation of the coil is the reverse of the removal procedure.

10

Charging system - general information and precautions

1992 and later models Check 15

Check to make sure the coil is receiving battery voltage with the

ignition key ON (engine not running). 16 Detach the primary electrical connector from the coil.

The charging system includes the alternator, voltage regulator and battery. These components work together to supply electrical power for the ignition system, lights, radio, etc. The alternator is turned

by a drivebelt at the front of the engine. The purpose of the voltage regulator is to limit the alternator’s

t

Chapter 5

9-11

Engine electrical systems a

\

Zs

9.8 Remove the ignition coil arc seal from the bottom of the coil Cavity in the distributor cap

11.2 A multimeter with a voltmeter mode is used for charging system tests

voltage to a preset value. This prevents power surges, circuit overloads, etc., during peak voltage output. On all models with which this manual is concerned, the voltage regulator is contained within the alternator housing.: The charging system does not ordinarily require periodic maintenance. The drivebelt, electrical wiring and connections

should, how-

ever, be inspected at the intervals suggested in Chapter 1. Take extreme care when making circuit connections to a vehicle equipped with an alternator and note the following. When making connections to the alternator from a battery, always match correct polarity. Before using arc welding equipment to repair any part of the vehicle, disconnect the wires from the alternator and the battery terminal. Never start the engine with a battery charger connected. Always disconnect both battery leads before using a battery charger.

——_. Sq 11 Charging system - check ct ei lle og eC Refer to illustrations 11.2 and 11.4 Note: Two types of alternators are used on the models covered by this manual, depending on model year. The first type, used through 1985, is the S/-type alternator, and is serviceable. S/-type alternators are easily identified by the opening in the rectifier end frame for full fielding the regulator. It also has a cup type sealed rear bearing and a drive end frame external fan blade. The newer CS-type alternator used from 1986-on are identified by a sealed ball bearing in the rectifier end frame

and the rotor axle can be seen in the center of the bearing. Most CStype alternators have an internal drive end frame fan. The CS-type alternator can not be rebuilt and is serviced as a unit. 1 lf a malfunction occurs in the charging circuit, do not immediately assume that the alternator is causing the problem. First check the following items: ; a) The battery cables where they connect to the battery. Make sure

the connections are clean and tight. b) Check the external alternator wiring and connections. be in good condition.

They must

c) Check the drivebelt condition and tension (Chapter 1). d) Make sure the alternator mounting bolts are tight. e) Run the engine and check the alternator for abnormal noise. 2 __Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be approximately 12-volts (see illustration). 3 Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. It should now be approximately 14-to-15 volts. 4 If equipped with an Sl-type alternator. Locate the test hole in the back of the alternator and ground the tab that is located inside the hole

iss

11.4 Ground the tab located inside the test hole on the backside of the alternator by inserting a screwdriver blade into the hole and touching the tab and the case at the same time

by inserting a screwdriver blade into the hole and touching the tab and the case at the same time (see illustration). Caution: Do not run the engine with the tab grounded any longer than is necessary to obtain a voltmeter reading. If the alternator is charging, it is running unregulated during the test. This condition may overload the electrical system and cause damage to the components.

5

The reading on the voltmeter should be 15-volts or higher with the

tab grounded in thé test hole.

6 If the voltmeter indicates low battery voltage, the alternator is faulty and should be replaced with a new one (Section 12). 7 _ If the voltage reading is 15-volts or higher and a “no charge” condition is present, remove the alternator (Section 12) and have it checked further by a properly equipped repair facility. Note: Many auto parts stores will bench check an alternator for you.

ge ee ON 12

Alternator - removal and installation

a

ETE)

Refer to illustrations 12.3 and 12.8

1 2

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Remove the drivebelt (Chapter 1).

ee

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems

12.8 Loosen ihe,AIR pump-to- SPN bracket bolt at the AIR pump (arrow), swing the bracket up and out of the way and remove the alternator

12.3 To remove the alternator, disconnect the electrical connectors (1), remove the bolts (2) and the bracket and remove the AIR pump-to-alternator bracket bolt (3) 3

Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the alternator (see

illustration). 4 Remove the support bracket bolts from the alternator and the block, then remove the support bracket. 5 On 1991 and earlier models, remove the AIR pump-to-alternator

bracket bolt from the alternator. 6 7

Remove the front lower bolt. Remove the rear lower bolt.

8 On 1991 and earlier models, loosen the AIR pump-to-alternator bracket bolt on the AIR pump and swing the bracket up and out of the way (see illustration). 9 Remove the alternator. 10 Installation is the reverse of removal.

13

Alternator brushes - replacement

Refer to illustrations 13.2, 13.3 and 13.6 Note: This procedure applies to CS-type alternators only (see Section 11).

13.2 Mark the drive end frame assembly and rectifier end frame assembly with a scribe or paint before pulling the two halves apart

1 2

Remove the alternator from the vehicle (Section 12). Scribe or paint marks on the rear end frame assemblies of the

alternator to facilitate reassembly (see illustration).

3. From the rear of the alternator, insert a paper clip through the rear end frame to hold the brushes in place (see illustration). 4 Remove the four through-bolts holding the front and rear end frames together, then separate the drive end frame from the rectifier end frame with the paper clip still in place. 5 Remove the bolts holding the stator to the rear end frame and separate the stator from the end frame. 6 Remove the nuts attaching the diode trio to the rectifier bridge and remove the trio (see illustration). 7 ~ Remove the paper clip from the rear of the end frame while holding your hand over the end of the brush holder to catch the brushes as they are released. 8 Remove the screws attaching the resistor (not used on all models) and regulator to the end frame and remove the regulator. 9 Remove the brushes by slipping the brush holder off the regulator. 10 Remove the springs from the brush holder.

13.3 meer a paper clip through the rearead frame to hold tthe brushes in place during disassembly and reassembly

Chapter 5

J

13.6 Brush replacement requires removal of the: 1 2 3

11

Diode trio mounting nuts Resistor (if equipped) Voltage regulator

4

Brush holder mounting Screws

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting the fol-

lowing: 12 When installing the brushes in the brush holder, install the brush closest to the end frame first. Slip the paper clip through the rear of the end frame to hold the brush, then insert the second brush and push the paper clip in to hold both brushes while reassembly is completed.

The paper clip should not be removed frames have been bolted together.

until the front and rear end ‘

a ee 14 Starting system - general information a The function of the starting system is to crank the engine. The starting system is composed of a starting motor, solenoid and battery. The battery supplies the electrical energy to the solenoid, which then completes the circuit to the starting motor, which does the actual work of cranking the engine. The electrical circuitry of the vehicle is arranged so that the starter motor can only be operated when the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission) or the transmission selector lever is in Park or Neutral (automatic transmission). Never operate the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at.a time without pausing to allow it to cool for at least two minutes. Excessive cranking can cause overheating, which can seriously damage the starter.

15

5-13

Engine electrical systems

Starter motor - in-vehicle test

16.3 The solenoid terminals are unequally sized to help you remember which wire goes to which terminal

1 Battery and electrical system hot wire terminal

2 3

Ignition switch terminal Starter motor strap

4 _ lf, when the switch is actuated, the starter motor does not operate at all but the solenoid clicks, then the problem lies with either the bat-

tery, 5 _ ated, 6

the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuthe solenoid itself is defective or the solenoid circuit is open. To check the solenoid, connect a jumper lead between the bat-

tery (+).and the S terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now

operates, the solenoid is OK and the problem is in the ignition switch, Neutral start switch or the wiring. a If the starter motor still does not operate, remove the starter/solenoid assembly for disassembly, testing and repair. 8 If the starter motor cranks the engine at an abnormally slow speed, first make sure that the battery is charged and that all terminal connections are tight. If the engine is partially seized, or has the wrong viscosity oil in it, it will crank slowly. 9 Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached, then disable the ignition system by disconnecting the wire from the BAT terminal on the distributor cap. 10 Connect a voltmeter positive lead to the starter motor terminal of the solenoid and then connect the negative lead to ground.

11 Actuate the ignition switch and take the voltmeter readings as soon as a steady figure is indicated. Do not allow the starter motor to turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9-volts or more, with the starter motor turning at normal cranking speed, is normal. If the reading is 9-volts or more but the cranking speed is slow, the motor is faulty. If the reading is less than 9-volts and the cranking

speed is slow, the solenoid contacts are probably burned. We

16

Starter motor - removal and installation

Eee

Note: Before diagnosing starter problems, make sure that the battery is

fully charged.

1 If the starter motor does not turn at all when the switch is operated, make sure that the shift lever is in Park (automatic transmission) or that the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission). 2 Make sure that the battery is charged and that all cables, both at the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are secure. 3 If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, then the

Overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be removed from the engine and disassembled.

ee Refer to illustrations 16.3, 16.5, 16.9 and 16.10 1 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2 _ Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.

3 Disconnect the electrical connectors from the starter motor solenoid. Note that the upper terminal (for the battery cable and electrical

system hot wire) is larger in diameter than the terminal to the right (for the ignition switch wire), so it is impossible to confuse the wires when reattaching them to the solenoid terminals (see illustration).

4 5S

Remove the transmission cooler line bracket screw. Remove the knock sensor shield screws and the shield (see illus-

Chapter 5

Engine electrical systems STARTER MOTOR BOLT/SCREW

BRACE

16.5 Remove both knock sensor shield screws (arrows) and the shield, then disconnect the knock sensor electrical connector

16.9 The starter motor mounting bolts 71 2

Starter motor Nut (attaches the support bracket to the stud on the front of the starter)

3

4

Long starter-to-block mounting bolt Short starter-to-block mounting bolt

16.10 Slide the starter motor forward until the snout clears the bellhousing, then swing the starter out to the right, away from the engine tration). Disconnect the knock sensor electrical connector.

6 Remove the support bracket-to-starter nut. 7 Loosen the support bracket-to-engine bolt. 8 Swing the bracket out of the way. 9 Remove the two starter-to-block mounting bolts (see illustration). 10 Slide the starter forward until the snout clears the bellhousing, then swing the snout end away from the vehicle and remove the starter (see illustration). 11 Installation is the reverse of removal.

17

Starter solenoid - removal and installation

Note: This procedure applies to 1991 and earlier models only. On 1992 and later models the starter and solenoid must be serviced as a unit.

Removal Refer to illustration 17.5

1.

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2

Remove the starter motor (Section 16).

17.5 To disengage the solenoid from the starter, turn it in a’ clockwise direction

1 2

3

Battery and electrical system hot wire terminal Ignition switch wire

6} 4

Starter motor strap Short starter-to-block mounting bolt

Disconnect the strap from the solenoid terminal to the starter

motor. 4 Remove the two screws which secure the solenoid to the starter motor.

5 Twist the solenoid in a clockwise direction to disengage the flange from the starter body (see illustration).

Installation 6 Make sure that the return spring is in position on the plunger, then insert the solenoid body into the starter housing and turn the solenoid counterclockwise to engage the flange. 7 Install the two solenoid screws and connect the motor strap.

6-1

Chapter 6 Emissions and engine control systems Contents Section Zin Injection: Reaction (AIR) SVStCMie. .scc..c.sececverssssseveceseesecesceceesess. 9 Calalviiciconventehawtsve cere. ote Ne ce Pang Rear ae lle Ny 13 On Board Diagnostic (OBD) system ARGwrOUDIe:COCSS wer etameertrs el cote adtanet Mer Acne went,’ 2 Electronic Control Module/PROM removal and installation........... 3 EISCihOnic:-spatneGOntroll(ESG)SyStemminssese ie tee eerste et et 7 Electronic Spark Timimgi(ESIM)|SVStemvssccscessssevesesvicereesdeasseces 6

Section Evaporative Emission Control System (EECS) .0......c.ccccceseccsseeeeseee 10 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) SyStem .......ccccceccecseesessceseesceseeee 8 General: information cts. css scyceeee ae ou al ere. an 1 [NfonmMeation;,SEMSOlSieasccewsce aah Ay selena nen 1 Cael tes a ng 4 OXY GEMSCNSO lyCie Fake archaea, Wit riay ne is ane ea ee re 5 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system .......ccccecceseccececesceees 49) Thermostatic Air Cleaner (Thermac)..........cesececcesecsescescssescsacseessecees 12

Specifications ss eee

Torque specifications OXY SEM SOMS Olea

eee tree eae

EGRivalve=tosmantOldboltsmer EGRsolenoid bracketrilitescae

1.

eae

See

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seem een et tun rc ch UM sett eee ey eee eee eee hn

lA Be Toad ae Me tay TE

General information

Refer to illustration 1.7 To prevent pollution of the atmosphere from incompletely burned and evaporating gases, and to maintain good driveability and fuel economy, a number of emission control devices are incorporated. They include the: Fuel control system Electronic Spark Timing (EST) Electronic Spark Control (ESC) system Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system Evaporative Emission Control System (EECS) Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system

“

Thermostatic Air Cleaner (Thermac)

Air Injection Reaction (AIR) system Catalytic converter All of these systems are linked, directly or indirectly, to the On Board diagnostic (OBD) system.

The Sections in this Chapter include general descriptions, checking procedures within the scope of the home mechanic and compo-

nent replacement procedures (when possible) for each of the systems

listed above. Before assuming that an emissions control system is malfunctioning, check the fuel and ignition systems carefully. The diagnosis of some emission control devices requires specialized tools, equipment and training. If checking and servicing become too difficult or if a procedure is beyond the scope of your skills, consult your dealer service department. This doesn’t mean, however, that emission control systems are

particularly difficult to maintain and repair. You can quickly and easily

perform many checks and do most (if not all) of the regular maintenance at home with common tune-up and hand tools. Note: The most frequent cause of emissions problems is simply a loose or broken vacuum hose or wiring connection, so always check the hose and wiring connections first. Pay close attention to any special precautions outlined in this Chapter. It should be noted that the illustrations of the various systems

=n

Emissions and engine control systems

Chapter 6

6-2

oS

may not exactly match the system installed on your vehicle because of changes made by the manufacturer during production or from year-to-

year.

A Vehicle Emissions Control Information label is located in the engine compartment (see illustration). This label contains important emissions specifications and setting procedures, as well as a vacuum hose schematic with emissions components identified. When servicing the engine or emissions systems, the VECI label in your particular vehicle should always be checked for up-to-date information. ee

2

OnBoard Diagnostic (OBD) system and trouble codes

EEE

Refer to illustrations 2.1a, 2.1b, 2.1¢ and 2.5 Note: This Section applies to OBD-! equipped models only. Beginning in 1994 some models are equipped with OBD-II (On Board Diagnostics, second generation), this system is identified by the 16 terminal ALCL connector located to the right of the steering column under the knee bolster. The VECI label in the engine compartment also states “OBDII”. Models equipped with OBD-/ systems, will use the 12 terminal ALCL connectors (see illustration 2.5). Their is no provision to flash the trouble codes on an OBD-II system. The system can only be accessed with a diagnostic SCAN tool capable of interfacing with OBD class 2 serial data. If the CHECK ENGINE light illuminates on an OBD-II equipped model, take the vehicle to a dealer service department or other properly equipped repair facility for diagnosis.

The On Board Diagnostic (OBD) system consists of an Electronic Control Module (ECM) and information sensors which monitor various functions of the engine and send data back to the ECM (see illustrations).

1.7 The Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) label provides information regarding engine size, exhaust emission system used, engine adjustment procedures and specifications and an emission component and vacuum schematic diagram

The OBD system is analogous to the central nervous system in the human body: The sensors (nerve endings) constantly relay information to the ECM (brain), which processes the data and, if necessary, sends out a command to change-the operating parameters of the engine (body). Here’s a specific example of how one portion of this system operates: An oxygen sensor, located in the exhaust manifold, constantly

HARNESS

PASSENGER COMPARTMENT

CONNECTIONS,

ETC.

Fuse Panel

[2H] Cold Start Module [3H] Base Timing Set Connector

ECM Ground (2 Places) From Fuel Tank Vapor. Canister Front Lamp Harness

PCV Valve EGR Valve INFORMATION

SENSORS/SWITCHES

(a) Vehicle Speed Sensor

Brake Switch

(C) P/N Switch (0) Manifold Pressure Sensor (MAP) (E) Exhaust Oxygen Sensor

() Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

ENGINE

COMPARTMENT

[1] LH} =(41J[10][94] ECM CONTROLLED

COMPONENTS

[1] Electronic Control Module (ECM)

[5] Fuel Pump Relay [6 | Canister Purge Solenoid Valve

[2] ALCL Connector

“CHECK ENGINE” Light [4] Trans. Conv. Clutch

(H) L12|

(H) ESC Sensor (Knock). Electronic Spark Timing [17] Electronic Spark Control (ESC)

Air Control Solenoid Valve

[12] Throttle Body Injector

Air Switching Solenoid Valve

[13] Exhaust Gas Recirculation Solenoid Valve

[9] idle Air Control

1984 CORVETTE ENGINE 5.7L (350 CID) V-8 RPO: L83 V.I.N. CODE: 8

©) Coolant Sensor

To Air Cleaner THERMAC

VEHICLE EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION LABEL FEDERAL: EIG 5.7 V5 NBM3 CALIFORNIA: EIG 5.7 V5 NBM8

2.1a Emissions and engine control systems component locations - 1984 models

Chapter 6 is Y" SERIES

Emissions and engine control systems

RPO:L98

VIN CODE:8

5.7L V8 Pri

E

COMPUTER HARNESS Electronic Control Module (ECM)

C2

ALCL connector (Data Access)

C3

“CHECK ENGINE” light

C5 ECM harness ground C6 Fuse panel C7

+Burn off module

C8 Fuel pump test connector (ALCL”G”)

N1_

Crankcase vent (PCV)

N5

Engine temp. sensor (gage.overheat)

N7_

Oil pressure sensor (gage)

N8

Oil pressure switch (fuel pump)

N10

Cold start valve

N11

Cold start thermal time switch

N12

A/C pressure cycling switch

O INFORMATION SENSORS Exhaust oxygen Throttle position Coolant temperature

Vehicle speed

Detonation (ESC) Mass Air Flow Manifold Air Temperature A/C pressure switch AC

CLEAN-AIR

—=

VOLATILE OIL FUMES

---> MIXTURE OF AIR AND FUMES

Check 4 The PCV system can be checked quickly and easily for proper operation. It should be checked regularly because carbon and gunk deposited by blow-by gases will eventually clog the PCV valve and system hoses. The common symptoms of a plugged or clogged PCV

11.1 1 2

The route of vapor flow in a typical PCV system

PCV valve Air cleaner

3. 4

Crankcase vent hose PCV valve hose

——_————

Chapter 6

6-21

Emissions and engine control systems

11.2 The PCV system on 1984 vehicles PCV valve Air cleaner Crankcase vent hose ms KOM PCV valve hose

Hose to canister Intake manifold fitting Fuel line ONAN Strap

6 Disconnect the hose leading to this filter. Be careful not to break the molded fitting on the filter. 7 With the engine idling, place your thumb lightly over the end of the hose. You should feel a slight vacuum. The suction creates a slight hissing sound which can be heard as your thumb is released. This sound indicates that air is being drawn through the system. If a vacuum is felt, the system is functioning properly. Check that the filter is not clogged or dirty. If in doubt, replace it. 8 If there is very little or no vacuum at the end of the hose, the system is clogged and must be inspected further. A leaking valve or hose will cause a rough idle, stalling or a high idle speed. 9 Shut off the engine and locate the PCV valve (right rocker arm cover on all models). Carefully pull it from its rubber grommet. Shake it and listen for a clicking sound. If the valve does not click freely, replace

(MAN, TRANS.)

We General description 1 The thermostatic air cleaner (Thermac) system improves engine efficiency and driveability under varying climactic conditions by controlling the temperature of the air coming into the air cleaner. A uniform incoming air temperature allows leaner air/fuel ratios during warm-up, . which reduces hydrocarbon emissions. 2 The Thermac system uses a damper assembly, located in the snorkel of the air cleaner housing, to control the ratio of cold and warm air directed into the throttle body. This damper is controlled by a vacuum motor which is, in turn, modulated by a temperature sensor in the

air cleaner (see illustration). On some engines a check valve is used in the sensor, which delays the opening of the damper flap when the engine is cold and the vacuum signal is low.

it with a new one. 10 Start the engine and run it at idle speed with the PCV valve removed. Place your thumb over the end of the valve and feel for suction. There should be a relatively strong vacuum. 11

If little or no vacuum

is felt at the PCV valve, turn off the engine

and disconnect the vacuum hose from the other end of the valve. Run the engine at idle speed and check for vacuum at the end of the hose just disconnected. No vacuum at this point indicates that the vacuum

hose or fresh air inlet fitting on the other rocker arm cover is plugged. If it is the hose which is blocked, replace it with a new one or remove it from the engine and blow it out sufficiently with compressed air. A clogged passage at the manifold requires that the component be removed and thoroughly cleaned to remove carbon build-up. A strong vacuum felt going into the PCV valve, but little or no vacuum coming out of the valve, indicates a failure of the PCV valve itself. Replace it. 12 When purchasing a new PCV valve, make sure it is the correct one for your engine. An incorrect PCV valve may pull too little or too much vacuum, possibly leading to engine damage.

Component replacement 13 The component replacement procedures for the PCV valve and filter are in Chapter 1.

12

Thermostatic Air Cleaner (Thermac)

Refer to illustration 12.2 Note: The Thermac system is employed only on 1984 models.

12.2 All 1984 vehicles are equipped with a Thermac air cleaner

1 2 3 4 5

Vacuum diaphragm motor Left snorkel Right snorkel Heat stove adapter Vacuum hose to manifold

6 7 8 9

Crankcase vent hose Air cleaner assembly Temperature sensor Retainer

vacuum eeeeeSeSSSSSSFSFSSSSSSMsseeseeeeee

6-22

Chapter 6

Emissions and engine control systems

3 When the engine is cold, the damper flap blocks off the air cleaner inlet snorkel, allowing only warm air from around the exhaust manifold to enter the engine. As the engine warms up, the flap gradually opens the snorkel passage, increasing the amount of cold air allowed into the air cleaner. By the time the engine has reached its normal operating temperature, the flap opens completely, allowing only cold, fresh air to enter. 4 Hesitation during warm-up can be caused by the heat stove tube becoming disconnected, the vacuum diaphragm motor becoming inoperative (open to the snorkel), loss of manifold vacuum, a sticking damper door, a missing or leaking seal between the TBI and the air cleaner, a missing air cleaner cover seal, a loose air cleaner cover or a loose air cleaner. 5S Lack of power, pinging or spongy throttle response can be caused by a damper door that does not open to the outside air or a temperature sensor that doesn’t bleed off excess vacuum.

Check 6 Refer to Chapter 1 for maintenance and checking procedures for the Thermac system. If any of the problems mentioned above are discovered while performing routine maintenance checks, refer to the following procedures. 7 _ \f the damper door does not close off snorkel air when the engine is started cold, disconnect the vacuum hose at the snorkel vacuum motor and place your thumb over the hose end, checking for vacuum. If there is vacuum going to the motor, check that the damper door and link rod are not frozen or binding inside the air cleaner snorkel. 8 If a vacuum pump is available, disconnect the vacuum hose and apply vacuum to the motor to make sure the damper door moves. Replace the vacuum motor if the application of vacuum does not open the door. 9 If the above test indicates that there is no vacuum going to the motor, check the hoses for cracks, crimps and loose fitting connections. If the hoses are clear and in good conditiog, replace the temperature sensor inside the air cleaner housing.

Component replacement Air cleaner vacuum motor 10 Remove the air cleaner assembly from the engine and disconnect the vacuum hose from the motor. 11. Using a 1/16-inch drill bit, drill out the two spot welds which secure the vacuum motor retaining strap to the snorkel tube. Enlarge the hole with bigger drill bits as required to remove the retaining strap. Do not damage the snorkel tube. 12 Remove the motor retaining strap. 13 Lift up the motor, cocking it to one side to unhook the motor linkage at the control damper assembly. 14 To install, drill a 7/64-inch hole in the snorkel tube at the center of the vacuum motor retaining strap. 15 Insert the vacuum motor linkage into the control damper assembly. 16 Using the sheet metal screw supplied with the motor service kit, attach the motor and retaining strap to the snorkel. Make sure the sheet metal screw does not interfere with the operation of the damper door. Shorten the screw if necessary. 17 Connect the vacuum hose to the motor and install the air cleaner assembly.

13.6 Remove these four bolts from the flange between the front of the catalytic converter and the exhaust pipe - there are four more bolts in exactly the same positions at the other end of the converter that must also be removed

22

Press the retaining clip onto the sensor. Do not damage the con-

trol mechanism in the center of the sensor. 23 Connect the vacuum hoses and attach the air cleaner to the engine.

13

Catalytic converter

Refer to illustration 13.6

General description 1___The catalytic converter is an emission control device added to the exhaust system to reduce pollutants from the exhaust gas stream. A single-bed converter design is used in combination with a three-way (reduction) catalyst. The catalytic coating on the three-way catalyst contains platinum and rhodium, which lowers the levels of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) as well as hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide

(CO).

Check 2 The test equipment for a catalytic converter is expensive and highly sophisticated. If you suspect that the converter on your vehicle is malfunctioning, take it to a dealer or authorized emissions inspection facility for diagnosis and repair. 3 The converter is located underneath the passenger compartment, just behind the junction of the left and right side exhaust pipes. Therefore, whenever the vehicle is raised for servicing of underbody components, check the converter for leaks, corrosion and other damage. If damage is discovered, the converter can simply be unbolted from the exhaust system and replaced.

Air cleaner temperature sensor

Component replacement

18 Remove the air cleaner from the engine and disconnect the vacuum hoses at the sensor. 19 Carefully note the position of the sensor. The new sensor must be installed in exactly the same position. 20 Pry up the tabs on the sensor retaining clip and remove the sensor and clip from the air cleaner. 21 Install the new sensor with a new gasket in the same position as the old one.

4 5

Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jackstands. Disconnect the converter air pipe fitting on the right side of the

converter.

6 each 7 8

Remove the four converter-to-exhaust pipe flange bolts from end of the converter (see illustration). Remove the converter. Installation is the reverse of removal.

TA-1

Chapter 7 PartA Manual transmission and overdrive unit Contents Section CeMeralkiniOnimeatlOmercer eects gear Areva Macs ttdwhees cnr 1 Neutral start switch (manual transmission) - removal AGM StallatlOneers sees eMac esac ses seeecs seek socsen token seis See Chapter 8

Section Steering column lock cable - adjustment .............eseeeeeeeeeneeeeeeees 3 Transmission and overdrive unit - removal and installation........... 6 Transmission Oil level iChECK: scr cscscscsekesserecs.csehcescessatesens See Chapter 1

Overdrive switch - removal and installation .....:...0ccccesecessereesseeeees OVerciverumitmUid Changeset ocr este cen See Chapter Overdrive unit fluid level check.............ccc0cce .... See Chapter Overdrive unit - inspection and overhaul

Transmission Transmission Transmission Transmission

7 1 1 9

output seal - replaceMent.............:::cccceceessssseeeeeeeeees shittiettonts—ClagnoOSiSeresc-vcsceeteseteee ences aeeeetesdeseee shift linkage - adjustment............ : shifter - removal and installation.............ccc00eecseeeeeees

8 4 2 3}

Specifications

Torque specifications

Ft-Ibs (unless otherwise indicated)

Four-speed/with overdrive ShiltcmrOcracd|uUStiiG mut Smeeaccesseneeaer ee eae Neer we Shift lever-to-transmission nuts Shifter cross bolt 1984 and 1985 ........ 1986 through 1988 Shifter racketmoolieeewtere ste cster a eterere she aes secre cent acey a aery san at & SyMUALSTKOR UG (STH SGYGWALSo)tic ssaccecromanttecksbotsencuoes/ neanasocoa oASnEDALCn a eucBenESeH Transmission-to-clutch housing bolts... sc HiKAnSiiSStOgiarain)plUGiemmnenee te etemeete seen eantesa eeeRE ceo ence rna ts HILANSMMUSSIO MBP IU Gieceneeeceatnscesotcece cwaeetasene es. oeseee teOe Sacer asant shy

Overdrive unit-to-transmission ....

;

OVeranivertimitioilipamiDOltSe teers: cee sess cnrsty cess oes aaeesctees Getrer rose Overdriveunit-to-oilicoolenlinesies. cer.ceetveeres crsstete aahoctssseteasecn eeaevesses

20 to 30 15 to 24 40 to 51 15 to 23 15 to 22 22 to 30

45 to 60 15 to 25 25 to 35

34 to 36 6 to 8

8 to 12

ZF six-speed Transmission-to-clutch housing bolts MikaMNSiMSSiOMichatnpena TN POlUGSicssesatccs uctacteccerreeancsecece suescacencc sae resesesse SLI VETCONCTPLITS bate an can scone canccasom en eanenan on Sasueseeee cn (tasesnc een as Toktees asncaes

Sif 26 89 in-lbs

1.2a Underside view of the transmission

1 2 3. 4 5 6

Engine (oil pan) Clutch housing (bellhousing) Transmission Shift linkage Overdrive unit fluid level check plug Overdrive unit (oil

pan) 7 8

Cooler lines Transmission oil check and fill plugs

TA-2

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission and overdrive unit

1.2b Exploded view of the standard 4-speed manual transmission Hex bolt Washer Retainer Seal Gasket Snap ring Spacer Ring = OANDAAWN Drain plug Fill Plug 10 + Main drive gear bearing 11. ‘Transmission case 12 Dowel pin 13 Main drive gear 14 Main drive gear roller 15 Spacer 16 Gasket 17 ‘Shift fork 18 1st and 2nd shift shaft 19 Steel ball 20 ‘Interlock sleeve 21 ~~ Side cover 22 Transmission cover bolt 23 Seal

24 25

Spring Interlock pin

26 27 28 29 30

3rd and 4th shift shaft Washer Washer ‘Roller Gear

31

Spacer

32 33

Shaft Woodruff key

34 35

Snap ring Synchronizer ring

36 = Synchronizer ring 37 — Synchronizer key 388 3rd and 4th synchronizer 39 3rd speed gear 40 41

2nd speed gear 1st and 2nd synchronizer

42 43 44 45 46 47

Main shaft 1st speed gear

48 49

50 57

52 53 54 bo? 56 57 068

1

1st speed gear sleeve Washer Snap ring Bearing Dowel pin Spacer Snap ring + Reverse gear Gasket Retainer ~—~Bolt

59 60 67 62 63 64

Screw} Reverse shift shaft Reverse shift fork Seal Bracket Spring

Bolt Gasket

65 66

Pin Washer

Adapter plate Fin

67 68

Reverse idler gear Reverse idler bushing

General information

Refer to illustrations 1.2a, 1.2b, 1.2c and 1.2d The vehicles covered by this manual are equipped with either a 4-

speed automatic transmission, a 4-speed manual transmission with automatic overdrive or a 6-speed manual transmission. All information

69 70 71 72 73 74 75

Reverse idler ring ___-Reverse idler gear ~Bearing Washer ~Pin Reverse idler shaft Overdrive reverse gear switch ——~‘Seal. 76 Tiel

78 — Transmission-to-overdrive unit bolt 79 Washer 80 Overdrive override (3-4) switch 81 Overdrive override switch seal 82 Overdrive override (1-2) switch 83 Transmission ventilator

on the manual transmission, along with the overdrive unit attached to

it, is included in this Part of Chapter 7. Information for the automatic transmission can be found in Part B of this Chapter.

The 4-speed manual transmission with automatic overdrive, used

in models manufactured from 1984 through 1989, is essentially two separate units coupled together (see illustration). The transmission is a conventional 4-speed, commonly designated as an 83 mm type (see

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual transmission and overdrive unit

7TA-3

1.2c Exploded view of the overdrive unit

71 2 3

4

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34

So 36 37 38 39 40 41

Transmission (less overdrive unit) Transmission-tooverdrive unit bolt Transmission-tooverdrive unit bolt lockwasher TBI harness clip bracket Adapter plate gasket Adapter plate screw Dowel pin Adapter plate Adapter plate O-ring Accumulator piston retaining ring ~‘Seal ~~ Annular bearing Carrier bearing locknut Planetary gear carrier Washer Bearing + Washer Gear Bearing cup Planetary gear thrust washer ~‘~Planetary gear Bearing cup Ring Seal Seal ~=Piston ~=Spring Seal Piston Washer Bearing Shaft Planetary gear thrust plate Plate

‘Bolt ‘Inner race Sprag | Hub Drum Plate Plate

42 Plate 43 Plate 44 Bearing 45 Piston 46 Plate 47 Plate 48 Overdrive vent tube 49 Plate 50 Washer 51 Piston 52 ~~ Spring

53 54 55

56 57 58 59 60 61 62

Spring Washer Bearing Pump bearing cup Screw Housing Overdrive oil pump Oil pump drive pin Pump spool ‘ Overdrive oil pump O-ring

a

63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71

Overdrive oil pump O-ring Screw Speedometer drive gear

clip Speedometer drive gear Overdrive case Headless slotted plug Seal Case bushing + Wire aaa

ete Seat

72 73

74 75 76 77 78 79 80

Filler plug Overdrive connector O-ring Grommet Overdrive — Overdrive Overdrive Overdrive Ojl cooler

sSisesp nein

electrical

oil screen oil pan magnet oil pan oil pan bolt fitting

anssnssssespanensstesninsstsnssussasioasionasnslnsinnsseioa

TA-4

Chapter 7 Part A Manual transmission and overdrive unit

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual transmission and overdrive unit

a

7A-5

ea...

1.2d Exploded view of the 6-speed ZF manual transmission Front case Fill plug Detent cap Locking pin Locking pin

Ball Ventilator cap Ventilator tube DOANDAAARWBNH™—™ Dowel pin Case gasket Rear case Washer Case bolt Extension housing gasket Roll pin Support ring Extension housing Extension housing bolt Bushing Rear oil seal Cable tie Nut Gearshift cover Spring clip Reverse lockout rod Gearshift lever Stop block Set screw Gearshift lever bearing Gearshift lever spring Pivot guides Pivot assembly pin Shim Pivot Gearshift pivot pin Control arm Stop block shim Stop block stop Bolt

Snap ring Flange bolt Gearshift rod shaft Support bracket Support bracket bolt Control arm bolt Gearshift boot Cable (2) tie Gearshift rod Gearshift shaft pin Snap ring Gearshift shaft seal 3-4 Shift rail/fork assembly 3-4 Detent plug 3-4 Detent spring 3-4 Shift rail detent 2nd Gear bearing Mainshaft 3rd Gear 3rd Gear synchronizer ring 3-4 Synchronizer sleeve 3-4 Synchronizer body Selective snap ring 4th Gear synchronizer ring

Pocket bearing 3-4 Synchronizer pressure piece 3-4 Synchronizer ball 3-4 Synchronizer spring Backup lamp switch pin Reverse shift rail

Reverse shift fork Roll pin Lock pin Reverse shift rail detent Reverse detent spring Reverse detent plug Speedometer drive gear clip Speedometer drive gear Washer

Snap ring Washer

Selective shim Mainshaft output bearing Pressure piece retaining ring

Snap ring Snap ring Washer Reverse synchronizer sleeve Reverse pressure piece Reverse synchronizer ball Reverse synchronizer spring Reverse synchronizer body Synchronizer ring Reverse gear Reverse gear bearing Bearing inner race Thrust washer 1st Gear 1st Gear bearing Synchronizer internal ring Synchronizer intermediate ring Outer synchronizer 1-2 Sliding sleeve Selective snap ring 1-2 Pressure piece 1-2 Synchronizer ball 1-2 Synchronizer spring 1-2 Synchronizer body Outer synchronizer ring Synchronizer intermediate ring Synchronizer internal ring 2nd Gear Counter shaft nut Snap ring Washer Countershaft input bearing Snap ring 4th Speed counter gear 3rd Speed counter gear 6th Gear bearing 6th Gear Selective snap ring Synchronizer ring 5-6 Pressure piece 5-6 Synchronizer ball 5-6 Synchronizer spring 5-6 Synchronizer body

«=

129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158

5-6 Synchronizer sleeve Synchronizer ring 5th Gear 5th Gear bearing Countershaft front bearing race Countershaft Countershaft rear bearing Reverse idler cover bolt Retaining bolt Retaining bolt seal Reverse idler cover Cover gasket Plug Reverse idler gear shaft Reverse idler gear bearing Reverse idler gear Lock pin Roll pin

5-6 Shift fork 5-6 Shift fork shoe 5-6 Detent plug 5-6 Detent spring 5-6 Shift rail detent

5-6 Shift rail 1-2 Shift rail 1-2 Shift rail detent 1-2 Detent spring 1-2 Detent plug Selective shim Selective snap ring Input shaft main bearing 4th Gear input shaft Gearshift shaft ball sleeve Gearshift shaft stop

Snap ring Gearshift shaft Speed sensor retainer Speed sensor bolt Spacer Speed sensor gear O-ring Speed sensor Wire harness retainer Solenoid Magnet Shift shaft detent bolt Detent inner spring Detent outer spring Shift shaft detent Drain plug Backup lamp switch Bearing shaft seal Input shaft seal Bearing retainer tube

O-ring Retainer flange Retainer flange bolt _ Countershaft seal

1-2 Shift fork Roll pin Lock pin

3rd Gear bearing

7A

7A-6

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual transmission and overdrive unit

BUTTON PIN BUTTON PIN q

oy Re ens p o CECELEL VASA

. _

KNOB

2.3b On later models, the overdrive switch is located on the shifter and is operated by a button on the end of the shifter

KNOB ASSEMBLED

2.3a The shift knob assembly on early models where the overdrive switch is on the center console

1 2 3

illustration). The overdrive unit offers a two-speed operation with

+ T-rod Slide block Switch

either a 1:1 or a 0.68:1 ratio, controlled by the ECM computer or a dri-

ver-operated switch (see illustration). ; Beginning in 1989, the 4-speed overdrive transmission was replaced by a ZF 6-speed unit which was adopted primarily to increase fuel economy (see illustration). To ensure compliance with federal fuel economy standards, the 6-speed transmission inhibits the use of 2nd and 3rd gears when shifting out of 1st gear under the following conditions; coolant temperature is above 122-degrees F), throttle is open 35-percent or less and the vehicle’s speed is between 12 and 19 mph. Due to the complexity, unavailability of replacement parts and the special tools necessary, internal repair procedures for these two units are not recommended for the home mechanic. The information contained within this manual will be limited to general diagnosis, external adjustments and removal and installation. Depending on the expense involved in having a faulty transmission overhauled, it may be an advantage to consider replacing the unit with either a new or rebuilt one. Your local dealer or transmission shop

should be able to supply you with information concerning cost, availability and exchange policy. Regardless of how you decide to remedy a transmission problem, you can still save considerable expense by removing and installing the unit yourself.

2

Transmission shift linkage - adjustment

Refer to illustrations 2.3a, 2.3b and 2.7

Note: This procedure applies to 1988 and earlier models only. The shift linkage is not adjustable on 1989 and later models. 1 Disconnect the negative cable at the battery. Place the cable out

2.7 To adjust the shift linkage, loosen the adjusting nuts located on either side of the swivels. Jiggle the rods back and forth until the gage pin (or appropriate size drill bit) will slide through all three levers

ROD-3RD & 4TH ROD-1ST & 2ND

“\|7 ROD-3RD & 4TH

ROD-REVERSE

Chapter 7 Part

TA-7

A Manual transmission and overdrive unit RETAINING

COLUMN LOCKED IN ““PARK’’ POSITION

PIN (STRG COL)

REVERSE

1

7

LEVER

PANEL ASMU/BODY FRONT FLOOR

i |

PUSH DOWN

FOR LOCK “IN” POSITION ee ADJUSTING: KEY REVERSE oe

/

STOP

ah yf

PANEL ASMU/BODY FRONT FLOOR

view [8] | 3.1

If the steering column does not fully lock when the shifter is put into Reverse with the key off, adjust the park lock cable

as shown here

of the way so it cannot accidentally come in contact with the négative terminal of the battery, as this would once again allow power into the electrical system of the vehicle. 2 Remove the left (driver’s) seat, disconnecting any electrical wiring. Refer to Chapter 11 if necessary. 3» Remove the shift knob at the top of the shifter. The method for doing this depends on the date of manufacture of your vehicle. a) For early models, where the overdrive switch is mounted on the console, carefully pry up the button on the end of the knob and then remove the T-pin. Unscrew the knob, being careful not to lose the spring which is just beneath the knob (see illustration). b) For later models, where the overdrive switch is actuated by the shifter button, carefully pry the button out of the shift knob and then unscrew the T-rod (see illustration). Count the number of turns while removing this rod so that it can be reinstalled at the

same height. spring which Remove the Remove the

Unscrew the shift knob, being careful not to lose the is just beneath the knob. console cover and the glove box lock. left side panel of the center console.

Remove the shift cover, exposing the shifter components.

Loosen the adjusting nuts on the shifter rods (see illustration). shifter and the transmission in Neutral, install the gage pin (see illustration 2.7). If a gage pin is not available, a drill bit large enough to fit into the gage pin hole with minimal clearance can be used. The bit must fit tightly to ensure that all three levers are held in precise alignment. 9 Equalize the swivels on all three shift rods, then finger tighten each of the adjusting nuts against the swivels. 10 Remove the gage pin, tighten the adjusting nuts and check the operation of the shifter. If acceptable, reinstall the various components removed previously. On late-model vehicles, the overdrive button must be flush with the top of the knob. If not, adjust the T-rod up or down as necessary. ANookR With the

3

Steering column lock cable - adjustment

Refer to illustration 3.1 Note: This procedure applies to 1988 and earlier models only. 1 Lift up on the adjusting key, which will release the cable (see illustration). 2 Place the steering column lock lever in the locked (Park) position. Shift the transmission into Reverse. 3. 4 Insert the gage (or a 1/16-inch drill bit) against the reverse stop and pull the reverse lever until the reverse pawl just touches the gage. 5 Push down on the adjusting key to lock the cable in this position. 6 Remove the gage and pull on the shifter to ensure the pawl hits the stop and locks the shifter in Reverse.

a Pe 4 Transmission shift effort - diagnosis a ae ae tone URN ead SS EA

ee

ee

EE

Ps 2

Note: This procedure applies to 1988 and earlier models only. 1 lf excessive effort is required to shift the transmission into a particular gear, a relatively simple diagnosis procedure can be used to determine if the shifter mechanism or the transmission is at fault. 2 Determine which shift rod is suspect and then disconnect it from the side of the transmission. 3 Thread two nuts onto the shift shaft now extending from the

transmission, lock the nuts together with a wrench and manually shift the transmission in and out of gear. 4 — Using an inch-pound torque wrench, measure the torque necessary to shift the transmission into gear. It should not exceed 72 inchpounds. 5 Torque in excess of this amount would indicate an internal prob-

lem in the transmission. An anti-chatter lubricant (Positraction additive)

7TA-8

Chapter 7 Part

A Manual transmission and overdrive unit

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