Haynes Audi A4 (4-Cylinder) Service & Repair Manual 1859605753, 9781859605752

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Audi A4 Service and Repair Manual

AK Legg uemm & Spencer Drayton odels covered d di A4 Saloon & Estate (Avant) IS & 1781cc 4-cylinder petrol and 1896cc 4-cylinder diesel (including turbo versions)

yes not include S4, V6 (petrol/diesel), or Quattro (4x4) models

‘Haynes Publishing 2002

sala

Printed in the USA

KLM

book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset, BA22 7JJ, England

l rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including iotocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, ithout permission in writing from the copyright holder.

PN 1 85960 575 3

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

Editions Haynes 4, Rue de |'Abreuvoir

92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France

itish Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

(3575 - 312 - 5AF1)

Contents LIVING WITH Y«

AUDI Afr ss Page

004

Wheel changing

Page

098

Identifying leaks

Page

0e9

Towing

Page

0e9

Introduction

Page

0¢10

Underbonnet check points

Page

010

Engine oil level

Page

0Oe11

Page

Oe11

Page

0¢12

Power steering fluid level

Page

0°12

Battery

Page

0e*13

Electrical systems

Page

0e13

Roadside Repairs

~ Weekly Checks

Coolant level Brake (and clutch) fluid level

-

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0¢14

Washer fluid level

Page

0¢15

Page

0¢15

Page

1Ae1

Maintenance schedule

Page

1Ae2

Maintenance procedures

Page

1Ae5

___Maintenance schedule

Page

1Be2

___ Maintenance procedures

Page

1Be5

Wiper blades

:

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Audi A4 petrol models

Rudi Aflioselmiodels ee

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY

mechanic

eS Very difficult, wy suitable for expert DIY or professional

EN

1ae2 Servicing specifications - petrol models _ Lubricants.and fluids | 522 22a

Sean

aces uae

nep en

Sai ,

raimg ated the.kb nS de

Refer to end of Weekly checks

Capacities Engine oil (including filter) DUS CE GNGINes (ADP SATE) cy au oc-ucmjartaetcne jancistron dionete \aeieiaa ees eee AMOtherengineS. nc. csec.c.0 alee ce ee amas eeake sueaicve aegis ane Stier wand

3.3 litres 3.9 litres

Cooling system PETEONIMOGCIS

5 smcraa.c Ae Vere ee eis reas Ee otitebe hater ashe airesarate Mba eslibyar'a (arte

6.0 litres approx.

Transmission

Mantialitrarsimlssionvetacrcecrs

crseateter ialsra'vpehar a iavafteyay o7a)aiiaharayiens hrehalethicetna

2.25 litres

Automatic transmission fluid:

(SE \hCUTate eae ea pies oeieeenrerintierana a Lee? Ara o Seen tala Fi wrap tae eth ic Pluie CHANGE! Vecre wea cece Vata ince aiid artesnshote ws foahgta Seatwe Automatic transmission: final: GhtVe i successes. terse

tenes

vente e heeerens

5.5 litres 3.5 litres 1.0 litre

Power-assisted steering PaO

Gl Sree

pete e since tees sake ScSee coe Cetin dePeued laine

leas

tedeadier se ehecmens

1.5 litres (approx.)

Fuel tank

Alkmodels: (approximate) ¢c. 62. osc

teelere ete sae

ics en eee

ere ee

62 litres

Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: AGP HcATITH FECL Ste: bi oe olsccsceatara eso aeetrnis 5 Mute okre eee eae SERSe 5OYrantifreezesi nti es Ae, SO ee eae

Protection down to -25°C Protection down to -35°C

Ignition system IQTUEOR ELTA Mes cassis ss ae eee Road wheel Dots caihn ie: os cet maksomata te A ane epee pe Spark Plugs sss ocean ho a Dee ES eT ep ne a

25

18

Sump drain plug: Engine; codes ADP PAA s.< camel ec erratic

cette aa MeN

oats

15

11

2 30 25 25

1 22 18 18

120

89

30

22

30

22

ce

aes

ae

et ze

ow

—

ri 4

. a

Maintenance schedule - petrol models 1-3 The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the~+ minimum _ intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, since it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. Note: The mileage conversions from kilometres are approximate. All Audi A4 models are equipped with a service interval display indicator in the

instrument panel. Every time the engine is started the panel will illuminate for a few seconds, displaying one of the following: Models up to 1997 OIL - 15 000 km service required In 1 - 12 month, 30 000 km or 60 000 km inspection service required, according to mileage completed In 2 - 24 month service required Models from 1997 Service OIL - 15 000 km service required Service INSP. - 12 month, 30 000 km or 60 000 km 120 000 km or 24 month service required, according to mileage completed This is basically a reminder that a service is

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly |_] Refer to Weekly checks

Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) ‘OEL or ‘service OIL’ on interval display |_] Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3) Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oi! more frequently than the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year.

Check |] Check |] Check [|] Reset

the front brake pad thickness (Section 4) condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section5S) the condition of the timing belt (Section 6) the service interval display (Section 7)

Every 12 months - ‘In 1’ or ‘service INSP’ on interval display Check the operation of the windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer Sain (Section 8) Check the tyre wear (Section 9) Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 10) Check the battery electrolyte level (Section 11) Check the engine management ECU memory for faults (Section 12) Check all underbonnet components and hoses for fluid leaks (Section 13) Check the cooling system for anti-freeze content (Section 14) Check all brake flexible hoses and rigid pipes for condition (Section 15) Check the rear brake pad/shoe lining thickness (Section 16) Check the condition of the exhaust system and its

mountings (Section 17)

[] Check the steering and suspension components ~— for condition and security (Section 18) Carry out a road test (Section 19)

due, eg: when the Audi technician completes ~ an oil change service, the display indicator is re-programmed to show OEL when another 15 000 km have been covered. When a service is due, the display will begin indicating it 1000 km or 10 days beforehand. The indicator is programmed in km, even if the vehicle has mileage indication. Note: A ‘long-life’ service schedule was introduced towards the end of 1999, applicable only to vehicles built from modelyear 2000 onwards. Full details of the service schedule were not available at the time of writing - refer to your VAG dealer for further information.

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km)-‘In 1”. or ‘service INSP’ on interval display Note: Carry out the following work in addition to that described for the 12 months interval,

[_] Renew the fuel filter (Section 20) (_] Renew the pollen filter (Section 21) [_] Check the underbody sealant (Section 22) (_] Check manual transmission oil level (Section 23)

[_] Check the headlight beam adjustment (Section 24)

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) - ‘In 1’ or ‘service INSP’ on interval display Note: Carry out the following work in addition to that described for the 12 month and 20 000 mile intervals.

|] Renew the air filter element (Section 25) (|_| Renew the spark plugs. Note: Every 3 years if less than 40 000 miles (Section 26) Check the final drive oil level and top up if necessary (automatic transmission) (Section 27) [_] Renew the automatic transmission fluid. Note: Every 4 years if less than 40 000 miles (Section 28)

[_] Renew the timing belt (Section 29)* *Note: The manufacturer’s recommendation is to renew the timing belt at 80 000 miles (120 000 km) however we recommend it is renewed at 40 000 miles (60 000 km) especially if the vehicle is used mainly for short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is very much up to the individual owner but, bearing in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks in use, we recommend you err on the side of caution.

Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km) ‘In 1’ or ‘service INSP’ on interval

display Renew the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 30)

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage) ‘In 2’ or ‘service INSP’ on interval display Renew the brake fluid (Section 31)

[_] Renew the coolant (Section 32)

[_] Carry out an exhaust emissions check (Section 33)

1Ae4:

Component location - petrol models

Underbonnet view of a 1.8 litre DOHC 20-valve petrol engine rene (codeADR) _Engine oil filler cap Air cleaner Carbon canister sotenBlel: On-m= valve 4 _ Airflow meter

5 6 7 8 9 10 11. 12. | 13.

Engine management ECU Brake fluid reservoir Ignition coil unit Battery Cooling system expansion tank Engine oil level dipstick Inlet manifold Alternator ABS unit

1 14 Washer fluid reservoir 15

Power steering fluid reservoir

Front underbody view of a 1.8 litre DOHC 20-valve petrol engine model (code ADR) Exhaust front downpipe Transmission mounting Front suspension arm

Driveshaft Front anti-roll bar Front subframe Engine mounting Engine front torque arm Engine sump oil drain plug ~OOANODOARWDNH™ Power steering pump — ©= Radiator bottom hose

Component location - petrol models 14-5 Rear underbody view of a petrol engine model Intermediate exhaust pipe yo=— Rear suspension anti-roll

bar Rear axle beam Tail pipe and silencer

Fuel tank Handbrake cables NQOR Fuel filter

“1 Introduction — This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some

items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The

first step

in this maintenance

pro-

gramme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2. Regular maintenance

Primary operations

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used

vehicle,

which

has

conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

not received

regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear,

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See Weekly checks). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelts (Sections 5 and 30). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 26). e) Inspect the ignition system components (Chapter 5B). f) Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 25). g) Check the fuel filter (Section 20). h) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 13). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus

the a) b) c) d)

following: Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A). Renew the ignition HT leads (Chapter 5B)

Every 10 000 miles (5000 km)

ae

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be

3.3 Removing the drain plug from the

sump

As the drain plug releases from the threads, move it away quickly so that the stream of oil running out of the sump goes into the drain pan and not up your sleeve

141 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil removed with it. Take care, however, not to filler cap from the cylinder head cover (see touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the illustration): Fill the engine, using the correct engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect » grade and type of oil (see Lubricants and fluids). An oil can spout or funnel may help to yourself from possible skin irritants and other reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle is the oil to settle in the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is possible if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle around 1.0 litre will bring the level up to the stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap. Whichever method is chosen, make sure that 12 Start the engine and run it at idle speed for © the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil that the drain plug is at the lowest point. With filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that the vehicle raised, remove the engine there may be a few seconds delay before the compartment undershield (where applicable). oil pressure warning light goes out when the 3 Using a socket and wrench or a ring engine is started, as the oil circulates through spanner, slacken the drain plug about half a the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter turn. Position the draining container under the before the pressure builds up. drain plug, then remove the plug completely Caution: On models with a turbocharger, (see Haynes Hint). Recover the sealing ring leave the engine idling until the oil pressure from the drain plug (see illustration). light goes out. Increasing the engine speed 4 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, with the warning light on will damage the noting that it may be necessary to reposition turbocharger! the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few 5 After all the oil has drained, wipe off the minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once drain plug with a clean rag, and fit a new more. With the new oil circulated and the filter _ sealing washer. Clean the area around the completely full, recheck the level on the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. the plug securely. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the reference to General repair procedures in the

container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the left-hand rear side of the cylinder block. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil in the filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car then refit the undershield and lower the car to the ground.

Reference section of this manual.

4 Front brake pad thickness check

|

EN eS

~

1 Firmly apply the handbrake, loosen the front roadwheel bolts, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the front roadwheels. 2 For acomprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 (see Haynes Hint).

The thickness of the brake pads can be -

3.7 Removing the oil filter on the ADR engine (shown with engine on bench)

3.11

Removing the oil filler cap from the cylinder head cover (ADR engine)

viewed through the inspection aperture in the caliper body

ye SPV gees a

oI

We! le re

3 If any pad’s friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set.

1 Bepencine on the vehicle acachicaion an engine

type,

one,

two

or three

auxiliary

drivebelts may be fitted. The main drivebelt drives the alternator, viscous coupling fan, and the power steering pump. Where air conditioning is fitted, a secondary drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley drives the air conditioning compressor. On all engines except AHL, a third drivebelt from an additional pulley on the power steering pump drives the coolant pump. 2 For access to the drivebelts, apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the splash guard

from under the engine, and where applicable remove the engine top cover as well.

3 Examine the auxiliary drivebelts along their entire length for damage and wear in the form of cuts and abrasions, fraying and cracking. The use of a mirror and possibly a torch will help, and the engine may be turned with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley in order to observe all areas of the belt. 4 lf a drivebelt requires renewal, refer to Chapter 2A for the removal, refitting and adjustment procedure.

6 Timingbeltoe tioncheck &

YEE 1 Release the spring clips and remove the upper timing cover from the front of the engine (refer to Chapter 2A, Section 4). 2 Inspect the timing belt for signs of excessive wear, fraying, cracking and damage. Also check for traces of oil which

may have come from a faulty oil seal. The full length of the timing belt should be checked by turning the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. 3 On completion of the check, refit the upper

timing cover.

.

1 After all necessary maintenance wore fae been completed, the relevant service interval display code should be reset. 2 To reset the display code, Audi technicians use a special electronic instrument which is plugged into the vehicle diagnostic socket. However, pattern instruments may be obtained from motor factors or car accessory shops. 3 After each service, the display is reprogrammed to illuminate as follows according to the schedule listed at the beginning of this Chapter.

Every 12 months 8 Operation of the windscreen/tailgate/ neadiign: washer system(s)

O00

=

1 Check that each of the washer jet nozzles are clear and that each nozzle provides a strong jet of washer fluid. The jets should be aimed to spray at a point slightly above the centre of the screen/headlight. On the windscreen washer nozzles where there are ‘two jets, aim one of the jets slightly above then centre of the screen and aim the other just below to ensure complete coverage of the screen. If necessary, adjust the jets using a pin. 2 Carry out a check of ali wiper blades. Look for splits or cracks on the wiping surface and renew as necessary. Check that the wipers clean efficiently across their entire sweep; any gaps in the swept area may be caused by defective wiper blade hinges, prevénting the

blade from following the contours of the screen/lens surface. Check that the wiper blades do not overshoot the edge of the screen/lens at the end of their sweep and that the blades park in the correct position when switched off, If this is not the case, or if the blades overlap each other at the midpoint of their stroke, the wiper arms may be incorrectly fitted (see Chapter 12).

9 Tyre wear check

x x

aS

4 Raise and securely support the relevant side of the car in turn to allow a thorough check of each tyre to be performed; refer to

Jacking and vehicle support for reference. 2 Turn the tyre slowly by hand and carry out an inspection as described in Weekly checks Tyre condition and pressure check.

12 Engine management ECU & menor fault % code check

Wh This check can only be carried out by an Audi/VAG dealer or garage having the necessary equipment. If a fault code is evident, the problem must be corrected to ensure efficient operation of the engine.

40 Lubricate all hinges and locks

Hii 1 Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with a light general-purpose oil. Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock

strikers. At the same time, check the security and operation of all the locks, adjusting them if necessary (see Chapter 11). 2 Lightly lubricate the bonnet release mechanism and cable with a suitable grease.

11 Battery electrolyte level check

HU

1 Where a standard battery is fitted, the level of the electrolyte may be checked and if necessary topped up. On some batteries, MIN and MAX marks are printed on the side of the battery and the level may be checked without removing the cell covers. Where there are-no exterior marks, remove the cover(s) from the top of the cells and check that the level of the electrolyte is approximately 2 or 3 mm above the internal plates. Some batteries may have a plastic internal level indicator. 2 |If necessary, top up the cells using distilled or de-ionised water. 3 Refit the cell cover(s).

43 Underbonnet/underbody : ~

components and hoses fluid leak check

Mii

1 For access to the top and bottom of the engine, remove the engine top cover, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support) and remove the undershield. Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time,

some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected - what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future.

} 4 If any pad’s friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must a be renewed as a set. Refer to Chapter 9 for details.

5 On completion, refit the roadwheels and

Warning: Wait until the engine is

A

3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks. 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as whiteor rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised at the rear, inspect the petrol tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the petrol tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration. 9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes. 10 On completion, refit the undershield and engine top cover, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

cold before

~

starting this pro-

cedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. 1 Note that a tester will be required to check the coolant strength; these can be obtained relatively cheaply from most motor accessory shops. 2 With the engine completely cold, unscrew and remove the filler cap from the coolant expansion tank. Follow the instructions supplied with the tester and check the coolant mixture is sufficient to give protection down to temperatures well below freezing. If the coolant has been renewed regularly this shouldn’t be a problem. However, if the coolant mixture is not strong enough to provide sufficient protection it will be necessary to drain the cooling system and renew the coolant (see Section 32). 3 Once the test is complete, check the coolant level is correct (see Weekly checks) then securely refit the expansion tank cap.

15 Brake flexible hoses and = SS rigid pipes condition check

SS

x

1 Referring to Section 13, inspect all the braking system flexible hoses and metal pipes for signs of damage or deterioration. Any faulty pipe/hoses must be renewed (see Chapter 9).

16 Rear brake pad lining thickness check

lower the vehicle to the ground.

x x

RS

1 Firmly chock the front wheels and select first gear or PARK, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the rear roadwheels. 2 For a quick check, the pad thickness can be carried out via the inspection hole on the rear of the caliper. Using a steel rule, measure the thickness of the pad lining including the

backing plate. This must not be less than that indicated in the Specifications. 3 The view through the caliper inspection hole gives a rough indication of the state of the brake pads. For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Chapter 9 contains a detailed description of how the brake disc should be checked for wear and/or damage.

1 With the engine cold, check the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands, so that the exhaust components are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage. Make sure that all brackets and mountings are in good. condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the brackets and mountings. If the components are able to come into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance.

18 Steering and suspension components condition/ security check

SN

AS ‘

~

Front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands. 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these compo-

nents will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 On vehicles with power steering, check the fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for. signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source, Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the

movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are

Every 12 months -petrol models 1-9 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/ shock absorber may be checked by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a rebound, the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear.

at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track-rod balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is worn, the visual movement

will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rackand-pinion steering gear itself.

Suspension strut/shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension strut/shock absorber is defective internally, and should be renewed. Note: Suspension struts/shock. absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle.

10 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands, turn the steering onto

full lock then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters while squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber which may allow the grease to escape and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8, Section 3. 11 At the same time check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding

the inner joint and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. Any appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines or loose driveshaft retaining nut.

19 Roadtest

Drivetrain 6 Check

the

performance

of the engine,

clutch (where applicable), gearbox/ transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and gearbox/transmission.

Driveshafts 18.4 Check for signs of wear in the hub bearings by grasping the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and trying to rock it

5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

— :

8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual gearbox models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or notchy. 11 On automatic transmission models, make sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly, without snatching, and without an increase in engine speed between changes. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Audi/VAG dealer.

Check the operation and performance of the braking system 12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 13 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 14 Check that the handbrake operates

without excessive movement of the HU correctly lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary

Instruments and electrical equipment 1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises.

on aslope. 15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit

as follows. With the engine off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum. Hold the brake pedal depressed, then start the engine. As the engine starts,

there should be a noticeable give in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

~~ Ve.

Oy. fire VaReae 2

oe

1ae10 Routine maintenance and servicing - petrol

20.1

Fuel filter location on the right-hand side of the fuel tank

21.3 Release the scuttle cover panel fasteners (arrowed)

engine compartment bulkhead

_ Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) mid-sweep, so that they park vertically on the — 2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

1 The fuel filter is located beneath the rear of the car on the right-hand side of the fuel tank (see illustration). 2 Note the fitted position of the filter, then loosen the clips and disconnect the fuel pipes from each end. 3 Press the filter forwards and remove it from the mounting clamp. If it is tight, unbolt and remove the clamp and filter. 4 Where removed, refit the clamp and tighten the bolts. 5 Locate the new filter in position and reconnect the fuel pipes. Tighten the clips. Make sure the filter is located the correct way round, with the flow direction arrow pointing towards the engine.

j21 Pollen filter renewal

& x

1 The pollen filter (where fitted) is located beneath the windscreen cowl panels; it is located on the left side on right-hand-drive models, and the right side on left-hand drive models.

2 Switch on the windscreen wipers, then switch off the ignition when the wipers are

a

Ul

ee : 21.5 Lift the pollen filter from its housing

windscreen. 3 Release the scuttle cover panel fasteners by turning them as necessary (see illustration). 4 Peel back the rubber seal from the relevant end of the top of the engine compartment bulkhead (see illustration). 5 Lift the pollen filter from its housing (see illustration).

and rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). To ensure an accurate check, make sure that the vehicle is level. 3 Unscrew and remove the filler/level plug. 4 Check that the oil level is 7.0 mm below the bottom lip of the filler hole. To do this, use a piece of angled metal such as welding rod.

6 Wipe clean the filter housing, then fit the new filter. Clip the filter securely in position and refit the cover. Ensure that the OBEN marking on the new filter element faces

5 If necessary, add the specified oil through the filler/level hole. If the level requires constant topping up, check for leaks and repair. 6 Refit the plug and tighten to the specified torque, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

upwards. 7 The remainder of the refitting procedure is a reversal of removal.

(22 Underbody sealant check

‘&

S Raise and support the vehicle on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Using an electric torch or lead light, inspect

the entire underside of the vehicle, paying particular attention to the wheel arches. Look for any damage to the flexible underbody coating, which may crack or flake off with age, leading to corrosion. Also check that the wheel arch liners (where fitted) are securely attached with any clips provided - if they come loose, dirt may get in behind the liners and defeat their purpose. If there is any damage to the underseal, or any corrosion, it should be repaired before the damage gets too serious.

23 Manual transmission oil level check

24 Headbeaigmadjuht stment

Halogen headlamps 1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beam setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a VAG dealer or suitably equipped workshop. 2 For reference, the headlights can be adjusted using the adjuster screws, accessible via the top of each light unit (See the illustrations given in Chapter 12, Section 9). 3 Some models are equipped with an

EN

N

N

1 The oil filler/level plug is located on the lefthand side of the manual transmission, below the speedometer sender, and on some models it may be concealed by a heatshield (see illustration). The plug may be either of 17 mm Allen key type, or alternatively of multisplined type.

23.1 Oil filler/level plug location on the 012 manual transmission

electrically operated headlight beam adjustment system which is controlled through the switch in the facia. On these models, ensure _ that the switch is set to the basic 0 position _ before adjusting the peaalignt aim.

Electrical discharge headlights 4 The headlamp range is controlled dynamically by an electronic control unit which monitors the ride height of the vehicle

via sensors fitted to the front and rear suspension. Beam adjustment can only be carried out using VAG test equipment.

Every 40 000 nes ihe Bl km) Chapter 5B. If the marks on the originalequipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be

filter element renewal ve

seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to

1 Remove the air cleaner cover and air duct, then prise open the retaining clips and lift the upper cover from the air cleaner body. If necessary, temporarily remove the carbon canister solenoid valve from the cover (see illustrations). Note that the airflow meter is attached to the upper cover. 2 Remove the air cleaner filter element,

noting which way round it is fitted (see illustration). 3 Wipe clean the main body, then fit the new air filter, making sure it is the correct way round. 4 Refit the upper cover and secure with the retaining clips.

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter). If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 First remove the engine top cover, and on engine codes ADR, AFY, APT, AEB, AJL remove the ignition coil(s) as described in

25.1b

25.1d If necessary, remove the carbon canister solenoid valve from the cover

...and air duct...

25.2 Removing the air cleaner element

the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping

into the cylinders. 4 Unscrew spanner,

the plugs using

suitable

a spark plug

box spanner

or a deep

socket and extension bar (see illustration). Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As each plug is removed, examine it as follows.

25.1c

...then prise open the cover clips

26.4 Removing the spark plugs (engine code ADR)

4

hy

anh? ee gt

age

iaet2 Every 40 000 miles (60000 km) - petrol

models |

f 26.9a If single electrode plugs are being fitted, check the electrode gap using a feeler gauge...

26.9b ...orawire gauge...

26.10 ...and if necessary adjust the gap by bending the electrode

5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that

the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 7 \f the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 8 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. On engines fitted with multi-electrode spark plugs, it is recommended that the plugs are renewed rather attempting to adjust the gaps. With other spark plugs, the gap should be set

the spark plug socket and a torque wrench (see illustration). Refit the remaining spark plugs in the same manner. 13 Reconnect the HT leads and where necessary refit the ignition coil(s) with reference to Chapter 5B. 14 Refit the engine top cover.

It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of rubber hose over the end of the spark plug.

The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to crossthread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the aluminium cylinder head

26.12 Tightening the spark plugs with a torque wrench

to the value given by the manufacturer. 9 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler blade and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a firm sliding fit (see illustrations). 10 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers (see illustration). 11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. It’s often difficult to screw in new spark plugs without cross-threading them - this can be avoided using a piece of rubber hose (see Haynes Hint). 12 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque using

27.1

Filler/level plug location on the automatic transmission

oscheck and top up Gun _ (automatic transmission 1 The final drive oil filler/level plug is located on the left-hand side of the automatic transmission, behind the left-hand driveshaft inner joint (see illustration). Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the engine undershield. To ensure an accurate check, make sure that the vehicle is level. ; 2 Unscrew and remove the filler/level plug and check that the oil level is on the bottom lip of the filler hole. If necessary, add the specified oil through the filler/level hole. If the level requires constant topping up, check for leaks and repair. 3 Refit the plug and tighten to the specified torque, then lower the vehicle to the ground.

x 28 Automatic transmission fluidRN renewal

oe

oN

Note: Renew the fluid every 4 years or 40 000 miles/60 000 km, whichever comes first. 1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the engine undershield. Note: For an accurate fluid level, Audi technicians use an electronic tester which is plugged into the transmission electronic system, and which determines that the temperature of the fluid is between 35°C and 40°C. In view of this, it is recommended that the vehicle is taken to an Audi dealer to have the work done. The following procedure is given on the understanding that the level is checked by an Audi dealer on completion.

es

ser ee ee reid

Every 40 000 miles (60 000 km) - petrol models hoe. 2 Note that the transmission must be refilled from below the vehicle, so make sure that the vehicle is supported in a level position. 3 Position a suitable container beneath the

transmission. Wipe clean the oil pan, then unscrew the inspection plug, followed by the overflow pipe, from the bottom of the oil pan (see illustration). Allow the fluid to drain into the container. 4 Refit the overflow pipe and tighten to the specified torque. 5 Remove the sealing cap and plug from the filling tube attached to the side of the oil pan. Note: The later sealing cap and plug should be renewed whenever removed. 6 Add fluid to the oil pan until it runs out of

checked when the temperature is too high, underfilling will occur. 10 With the engine still running at idle speed, allow any excess fluid to run out of the overflow pipe. 11 Switch off the engine, then refit the inspection plug together with a new seal, and tighten to the specified torque. 12 Fit a new sealing cap and plug to the filling tube. 13 Lower the vehicle to the ground.

29 Timing beltrenewal

the overflow pipe.

7 With P selected, run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal temperature. If necessary add more fluid until it runs out of

the overflow pipe. 8 Apply the footbrake pedal, then select each position with the selector lever, pausing for

about 3 seconds in each position. Return the selector to position P. 9 At this stage, the Audi technician connects the tester to confirm that the fluid temperature is between 35°C and 40°C. Note: /f the fluid level is checked when the temperature is too

low, overfilling will occur. If the fluid level is

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 4. Note: The manufacturer’s recommendation is to renew the timing belt at 80 000 miles (120 000 km) however we recommend it is renewed at 40 000 miles (60 000 km) especially if the vehicle is used mainly for short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is very much up to the individual owner but, bearing in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks in use, we recommend you err on the side of caution.

28.3 Oil pan components on the 01N automatic transmission

Inspection plug Overflow pipe Sealing cap and plug ROM Sealing cap B must be renewed after removal Early sealing cap > wo Later sealing cap

Every 80 000 miles (120 000 km) 30 Auxiliary drivebelt renewal

Refer to Chapter 2A, Section 6.

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage) 31 Brake fluid renewal

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 41 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9. The brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by siphoning, using a clean poultry baster or similar before starting, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled when bleeding a section of the circuit.

3 Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid, and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the MAX level line.

UN

2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open the first bleed screw in the sequence, and pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir.

al HINT

4 Work

Old hydraulic fluid is often much darker in colour than the new, making it easy to distinguish the two.

through

all the

remaining

bleed

screws in the sequence until new fluid can be

seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN level at all times, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation is complete, check that all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road.

32 Coolant renewal

WHY Cooling system draining Warning: Wait until the engine is cold’ before _ starting this A procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse

off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell,

but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank cap with a wad of rag, and slowly turn the cap anti-clockwise to relieve the pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to turn the cap until it can be removed.

iasta Every 2 years - petrol models ‘2 Where necessary, release the fasteners and remove the engine lower splash shield. Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator stub. If the hose joint has not been disturbed for some time, it will be necessary to gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be damaged. Allow the coolant to - drain into the container. Note that the radiator is equipped with a drain tap, but this can only be accessed with the front bumper removed. 3 Where applicable, unscrew the drain plug from the underside of the coolant pump. Remove the old seal from the plug and fit a new one. 4 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than two years old, it can be re-used if there is no alternative, but this is not recommended. 5 Once all the coolant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position with the retaining clip. Where applicable, refit the coolant pump drain plug (with the new seal fitted) and tighten it to the specified torque.

Cooling system flushing 6 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,

then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. Flushing the system clean can restore the cooling system efficiency. 7 The’ radiator should’ be _ flushed independently of the engine, to avoid unnecessary contamination.

Radiator flushing 8 To flush the radiator, disconnect the top and bottom hoses and any other relevant hoses from the radiator, with reference to Chapter 3. 9 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom outlet. 10 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a good proprietary cooling system cleaning agent. It is important that their manufacturer’s instructions are followed carefully. If the contamination is particularly

bad, insert the hose in the radiator bottom outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator.

Engine flushing 11 To flush the engine, remove the thermostat as described in Chapter 3, then temporarily refit the thermostat cover.

12 With the top and bottom hoses disconnected from the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 13 On completion of flushing, refit the thermostat and reconnect the hoses with

reference to Chapter 3.

Cooling system filling 14 Before attempting to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year round, to prevent corrosion of the engine components (see following subSection). 15 Slacken the clip and withdraw the heater unit supply hose from its bulkhead stub (see Chapter 3) until the bleed hole at the top of

the hose is clear of the surface of the stub; do not disconnect the hose from the stub completely. 16 Remove the securing screws and detach the expansion tank from the engine compartment. Raise it approximately 100 mm above the engine compartment and support it there on a block of wood or using a length of wire. 17 Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant into the expansion tank to prevent airlocks from forming. 18 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by pouring in a couple of litres of water, followed by the correct quantity of antifreeze, then topup with more water. 19 Continue filling until coolant starts to run from the bleed hole in the heater hose. When this happens, refit the hose and tighten the clip securely. 20 Once the level in the expansion tank starts to rise, squeeze the radiator top and bottom hoses to help expel any trapped air in the system. Once all the air is expelled, top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark, refit the expansion tank cap, then refit the expansion tank to the bodywork. 21 Start the engine and run it at a fast idle for about three minutes. After this, allow the engine to idle normally until the bottom hose becomes hot.

22 Check for leaks, particularly around disturbed Gomponents. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank, and top-up if necessary. Note that the system must be cold before an accurate level is indicated in the expansion tank. If the expansion tank cap is removed while the engine is still warm, cover the cap with a thick cloth, and unscrew the cap slowly to gradually relieve the system pressure (a hissing sound will normally be

heard). Wait until any pressure remaining inthe system is released, then continue to turn the cap until it can be removed. Never remove the cap when the engine is still hot.

Antifreeze mixture Caution: Models built up to June 1996 were — filled with coolant containing antifreeze — VAG part number G011A8C (green in

colour). Models built from July 1996 were filled with coolant containing antifreeze

VAG part number GO12A8D (red in colour). DO NOT mix these two different types of antifreeze together in any proportion, as severe engine damage may result. If the coolant visible in the expansion tank is brown in colour, then the cooling system may have been topped up with coolant containing the wrong type of antifreeze. If you are unsure of the type of antifreeze used, or if you suspect that mixing may have occurred, the best course of action is to drain, flush and refill the cooling system. 23 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also to prevent corrosion which would otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective. 24 Always use ethylene-glycol-based antifreeze suitable for use in mixed-metal cooling systems. The quantity of antifreeze and levels of protection are indicated in the Specifications. 25 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be completely drained, preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. 26 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up should be made with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. : 27 Do not use engine antifreeze in the windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork.

33 Exhaust emissions check

|

EN

x 4

This check is part of the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule, and involves testing the exhaust emissions using an exhaust gas analyser. Unless a fault is suspected, this test is not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. Exhaust emissions testing is included as. part of the MOT test.

—

1Bet

Chapter 1 Part B: Routine maintenance and servicing diesel models Contents MignueLClamantrenOWal aktcsc.. a. cchicac aca vetoes che ccweue 26 eee ee 28 Automatic transmission fluid renewal ...............00c Auxiliary drivebelt condition check ..............cccceeceeees 5 URUlary OnVveOelt FANEWAll. fais doa) wjare sce sc ele oe cere cease 30 jy... 55 fas. c sa cecewaueecwews We Battery electrolyte level check’... Brake flexible hoses and rigid pipes condition check ............ 16 ceMEee 31 Eafeae stNC OMOWah aes onto a 516 tatsdarswesca ig ee @ ce ate ch ena FAO ATIIHONOWAL aetents cio ci na. ie a ofaeare gies Mlomen sie nie ee ainndeteteate 32 Cooling system anti-freeze content check .................005 15 Drain the water from the fuel filter... 2.0.0. cee ee eee 8 00.0. 0... Engine management ECU memory fault code check ............ 13 Engine all'and filter renewal): = ocs . ¢ he v Ss ce mscee aa eens one 3 EXMAUSWOMUSSIONS CHOCK, «.5. ct a2 fc Gyecin ccalbhaimie atessheue aie ane enevs soe33 Exhaust system and mountings condition check ............... 18 Final drive oil level check and top up (automatic transmission) ....27 Front brake pad thickness check

eee ences cece ........ ...00

4

FeUlen RCP ONO ARs: datceeds ec ana tea!uraldec acre eda re nm opebetmtcee tee weatnce 21

Headlight beam adjustment check ..........-00se es eeeeeeees 25 ImtrOGuUGtomny are crac, cays x tajelt-s, wos chee ane Pee cata atk ets eae eee 1 Cubricatelallihinges andilocks 7 5 co sf ectere ve ness cn eugeaeten pene nieare 11 Manual transmission oil level check ....... 000s cece eeeenes 24 Pollen:filterrenewalics viviete Ubcnanekelers, als ecduarst keane 2 Reset the service interval display ..........-...0eeeeeeeeeees 7 Road testis. acerate Srarent ove he Sin Siete at, oly aes ant etMparuaie eee ees 20 Steering and suspension components condition and security

CHECK tiiacats fpcbiatoaieneiels, s pater in saadeyataee cateastettiien sravane’s wteheceet ome 19 Timing belt and tensioner roller renewal ...........022-02+2005 29 Timing belt condition; Cheeky agra tare syecenansieus eet ae code cata 6

Tyre:wear checks

aah eaccss setae

en ciate

te

One i ace

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little

experience

Ry

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

mS Difficult, suitable for =N Fairly difficult, SN suitable for competent SN experienced DIY mechanic DIY mechanic

~

10

Underbody sealantcneck mr est cerns tspie ove pees co hte an iateiemereiects 23 Underbonnet components and hoses fluid leak check ........... 14 Windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system operation check .... 9

S

N Ry

S

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

182 Servicing specifications - diesel models aaa

inDnInIaTaSsEn

SITTIN

EISNISININSSIIiNIII SINISE

f

a

cece eens ....00 Lubricants and fluids .................ec

q

Refer to end of Weekly checks

Capacities Engine oil (including filter) /Ni Ka gele (2 SMA eR eh ie ee EERO

Cooling system PAUMOGEIS acters

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3.5 litres

7.5 litres (approx.)

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