Haynes Audi 100 & A6 1991-1997 Service & Repair Manual 1859605044, 9781859605042

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AUDI 100 & AG

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May 1991 to May 1997 (H to P registration) Petrol & Diesel

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TOYOTA CARINA E Moy 1992 to 1997 (J to P reqssiration}

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Service and Repair Manual

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There is almost certainly a Haynes Manual to cover your specific vehicle, whatever its age. Each manual features clear, easy-to-follow text linked to hundreds of step-by-step photos that guide you through each task. From the simplest service to a major rebuild, Haynes shows you how and saves you money.

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“~ih 52, 3014 UNDA

2ND EDITION

udi 100 & A6 ervice and Repair Manual A. K. Legg taemim and Mark Coombs (3504-384)

Models covered Audi 100 and Audi A6 Saloon and Estate models 1781 cc, 1984 cc & 2309 cc petrol engines and 1896 cc and 2460 cc turbo-diesel engines Does not cover V6 petrol engines, or Quattro, S4 or S6 models

© Haynes Publishing 1998

Serie

Printed by J H Haynes & Co Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil,

KLMNO

Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

PQRST

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted

in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

aynes North America, Inc | 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes S.A. Tour Aurore - La Défense 2, 18 Place des Reflets,

ISBN 1 85960 504 4

92975 PARIS LA DEFENSE Cedex, France

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

NT

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

72

eosialig

inne EO

Contents

OUNTY LIBRARY

ne

LIVING WITH YOUR AUDI 100/A6“"" Introduction

Page

004

Safety first!

Page

0*5

Page

0*6

Roadside repairs If your car won’t start Jump starting

Page

0O°7

Wheel changing

Page

08

Identifying leaks

Page

0*9

Towing

Page

0e*9

Weekly checks Introduction

Page

0°10

Underbonnet check points

Page

0°10

Engine oil level

Page

Oe11

Brake fluid level

Page

0°12

Coolant level

Page

0912

Power steering fluid level

Page

0e13

Battery

Page

0°13

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0°14

Tyre pressures

Page

0015

Washer fluid level

Page

0°15

Electrical systems

Page

0e15

Wiper blades

Page

0°16

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0¢16

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Petrol models

Page

1Ae1

Servicing specifications

Page

1Ae2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1A93

Maintenance procedures

Page

1Ae5

Diesel models

Page

1Be1

Servicing specifications

Page

1Be2

Maintenance schedule

Page

1Be3

Maintenance procedures

Page

1Be6

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems 4-cylinder 5-cylinder 4-cylinder 5-cylinder

petrol petrol diesel diesel

engine engine engine engine

in-car in-car in-car in-car

repair repair repair repair

procedures procedures procedures procedures

Page Page Page Page

2Ae1 2Be1 2Ce1 2De1 2Ee1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

Cooling, heating and ventilation systems

Page

3e1

Fuel system - single-point petrol injection

Page

4Ae1

Fuel system - multipoint petrol injection

Page

4Be1

Fuel system - diesel

Page

4Ce1

Emission control and exhaust systems

Page

4De1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5Ae1

Ignition system - petrol engines

Page

5Be1

Pre-heating system - diesel engines

Page

5Ce1

Transmission Clutch

Page

6¢1

Manual transmission

Page

7Ae1

Automatic transmission

Page

7Be1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Brakes and suspension Braking system

Page

9e1

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11¢1

Body electrical system

Page

12¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 12023

Body equipment

REFERENCE Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Vehicle identification

Page

REFe3

General repair procedures

Page

REFe4

Jacking and vehicle support

Page Page

REFe5 REFe5

Radio/cassette unit anti-theft system - precaution

Tools and working facilities

Page

REFe6

MOT test checks

Page

REFe8&

Fault finding

Page REFe12

Glossary of technical terms

Page REFe20

Index

Page REFe24

oe4 INtroduction In the UK, the New Audi 100 Saloon was launched

in May

1991

with

2.0,

2.3

and

2.8 litre petrol engines, and a 2.5 litre turbodiesel engine Note: V6 engines are not covered by this Manual. Either a 5-speed manual transmission or a 4-speed automatic

transmission was available, and standard equipment included power steering, antilock braking system (ABS), central locking, electric windows and heated exterior mirrors. A 2.5 litre turbo-diesel engine with optional 6-speed manual transmission was added to the range in October 1991. 2.6 litre V6 engines (not covered by this Manual) became available a year later.

With the introduction of the face-lifted A6 Saloon and Estate in June 1994, the mechanical specification was very much the same as the 2.0 litre Audi 100, however the new model featured a new bonnet and grille together with colour-coded bumpers and several additional refinements. A 1.9 litre diesel engine was added to the range in January 1995, and a brand new 1.8 litre (dohc) 20-valve

engine was introduced in December 1995. All models have front-wheel-drive with fullyindependent front and rear suspension. 4-wheel drive models are available but are not covered by this Manual. A driver’s airbag is fitted as standard equipment on A6 models,

and a passenger airbag is optional. Early models could be fitted with a cable-operated safety system called Procon-Ten which retracts the steering wheel forwards, and pretensions the front seat belts in the case of a severe frontal accident. The system uses cables routed around the rear of the transmission and through the steering column, and attached to anchor points on the body. Most servicing and repair jobs on the Audi 100 and A6 should be well within the scope of the enthusiastic home mechanic, however on 5-cylinder models the additional weight of the cylinder head and block will require extra care and the use of substantial lifting equipment.

($99)

Audi A6

Audi 100

Your Audi 100/A6 manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in

several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and

diagnosis

when

random

faults occur.

However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most

important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat,

facing forward.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to the Champion Spark Plug Company who supplied the illustrations of various spark plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to

all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. This manual is not a direct reproduction of the vehicle manufacturers’ data, and its publication should not be taken as implying

any technical approval by the vehicle manufacturers or importers. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production

run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss,

damage

or

injury

caused

by any

errors

in,

or

omissions

from,

the

information given.

Project vehicles The main vehicle used in the preparation of this manual, and which appears in many of the photographic sequences, was a 1995 Audi A6 2.5 litre TDi turbo-diesel Estate. Other models included a 1.9 litre turbo-diesel A6 Saloon and a 1.8 litre petrol A6 Saloon.

Safety first! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a

safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Fume or gas intoxication

Scalding ¢ Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing *¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle

always

ran woes

supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is

- (Pee a

rapidly fatal if inhaled. A

en

ee

Never run the ( ! engine ina i—#] © confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

8

Fire

Asbestos e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

di

—

er,

under a car which is only supported by a jack. e Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should

Electric shock e Ignition HT = voltage canbe |+ dangerous, especially to i people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery ¢ Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which

Air bags

e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). ¢ Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. ¢ Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

venture

¢ This extremely corrosive acid is formed

when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to.temperatures above 400°C. The

seek medical advice.

be done with the wheels on the ground.

Never

Hydrofluoric acid

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

(cea)

Special hazards

attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Poisonous or irritant substances

@i3 hee

g

e Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment ¢ Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... DO

DON’T

e Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

¢ Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

* Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

¢ Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

e Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

¢ Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

* Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

¢ Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

e Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. ¢ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

¢ Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

oo Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’tj start and the starter motor doesn’tb] turn

If your car won't,] start even though the starter motor turns as normal

L] If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selector is in P or N. || Make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. (_] Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

Is there fuel in the tank? Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that diesel engines don’t normally suffer from damp.)

re

Check the condition and security of the battery connections.

Check the fuel injection system airflow meter wiring is secure

Check the ignition system Hall sender wiring is secure

4

eae:

a

Si

‘

af 3

4

eS

:

Qe ij

ol

:

/

~

‘

| a

a

4

f ny]

Nae be

Check that the HT leads are securely connected to the spark plugs on petrol engines. To do this, remove the engine top cover first

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs o-7 HAYNES

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct

Jump starting

whatever made the battery go

When jump-starting a car using a

flat in the first place. There are

booster battery, observe the following

the same voltage as the discharged

three possibilities:

precautions:

one in the vehicle.

The battery has been drained by

repeated attempts to start, or by

v

wv

the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH

v_ Ensure that all electrical equipment

or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

each other.

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

v

3 The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

¥

1

2

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Ifthe battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle,

switched off.

The charging system is not working

m= properly (alternator drivebelt slack

Make sure that the booster battery is

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignitionis

leaving the lights on.

Fy

v

Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

3

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

4

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

I I I I on

xb

=

_ en

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

ee ee a ne

.

Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

os Roadside repairs Wheel changing

Preparation

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation

where

you

risk

being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become hand.

distracted by the job in

The jack and tool kit are located next to the spare wheel, and are secured with a bolt.

(|

Changing the wheel

When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. Park on firm level ground, if possible, and

well out of the way of other traffic. Use hazard warning lights if necessary. If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of wood to spread the load under the jack.

The spare is stored beneath a cover in the luggage compartment. Remove the floor covering and lift up the hardboard panel.

Unscrew the retainer and lift the spare

Where fitted, insert a screwdriver into the slot and lever the cap from the wheel.

wheel from the well in the floor.

Where fitted, use the hook in the tool kit to

pull the cover from the wheel. If caps are fitted to each bolt, use the tool to pull off the covers.

Loosen each wheel bolt by half a turn. Use the special adapter where a locking wheel bolt is fitted.

Place the wheel beneath the sill as a precaution against the jack failing.

Fit the spare wheel and tighten the bolts moderately with the wheel brace. Lower

the vehicle to the ground, then finally tighten the wheel bolts in a diagonal sequence. Refit the wheel cover/cap as applicable. Note that the wheel bolts should be tightened to the specified torque at the earliest opportunity.

Locate the jack head below the reinforced jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed. The jacking point is indicated by a diamond pressed in the sill. Turn the handle to raise the wheel clear of the ground.

Remove the bolts and lift the wheel from the vehicle. On later models, after

removing the first bolt, screw in the guide as an aid to fitting the spare wheel.

Finally... Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the jack and tools in the correct locations in the car.

L]

Check the tyre pressure on the wheel just

fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the right pressure. L] Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible.

Roadside repairs oes Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to

decide

where

the

leak

is coming

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

from,

HAYNES

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a

clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car and to park it over some clean paper as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Oil from filter

aa

a

ee

Sea Atal

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

..or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifree ze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

|

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Towing direction indicator and brake lights will work.

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Longdistance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter

and select neutral on the transmission.

distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following

[] Note

that

pressure

will

points:

L) Use a proper tow-rope

—- they are not

expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window.

L) Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the

Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided.

|] Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off.

Only drive at moderate speeds and keep

L] Before being towed, release the handbrake greater-than-usual be

required

pedal

to operate

the

brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required. |] The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

[)On

models

mission,

special

with

automatic

precautions

trans-

apply.

doubt, do not tow, or transmission

If in

damage

may result.

L] A towing eye is provided both at the front and rear of the vehicle, on the right-hand side. Access to the front eye is gained by removing the small grille.

o-10 Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot on inconvenience and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could well prove to be very well spent, for example;

(] Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely but could also save your life.

(_} Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

_] If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. (] If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak.

Underbonnet check points q 1.8 litre 4-cylinder petrol engine A B C D E F G

Engine oil level dipstick Engine oil filler cap Coolant expansion tank Brake fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir Battery Power steering fluid reservoir

q 1.9 litre 4-cylinder diesel engine A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap

C Coolant expansion tank D E F G

Brake fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir Battery Power steering fluid reservoir

Weekly checks oe11 q 2.5 litre 5-cylinder diesel engine A Engine oil level dipstick

B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion tank

D E F G

Brake fluid reservoir Washer fluid reservoir Battery Power steering fluid reservoir

Engine oil level Before you start

omtes

V Make sure that your car is on level ground. V Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. TYNAN)

HiNT

(f

the

oil

is

=

Mil

checked

immediately after driving the vehicle, some

of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick is located on the left-hand side of the engine (see Underbonnet Check Points on pages 0°10 and 0¢11 for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again.

The correct oil Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (see Lubricants and Fluids).

Car Care @ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil (see Fault Finding).

@ Always

maintain

the level

between

the

upper and lower dipstick marks. If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil

seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Ae

Se

Note

BASIS

"

the oil level on the end

of the

dipstick, which should be between the upper MAX mark and the lower MIN mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap on top of the engine. Rotate the cap through a quarter-turn anti-clockwise and withdraw it. Top-up the level. A funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Do not overfill.

o12 Weekly checks Safety first!

Brake fluid level Before you start

S

to clean around the reservoir cap before topping-up. Use only clean brake fluid.

—————

The fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be

allowed

to

UY Make ground.

mark.

¥Y Cleanliness is of great importance when dealing with the braking system, so take care

AN

The

sure

that

your

car

is on

level

drop

below

the

MIN

@ If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup, this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. @ |f a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

Warning: Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid which has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

brake

reservoir

master

cylinder

are mounted

and

fluid

on the vacuum

servo unit in the engine compartment on the right-hand side of the bulkhead. The MAX and MIN level marks are indicated on the side of the reservoir and the fluid level should be maintained between these marks at all times.

2

If topping-up is necessary, wipe the area around the filler cap with a clean rag before removing the cap. It’s a good idea to inspect the reservoir. The fluid should be changed if dirt is visible.

Carefully add fluid, avoiding spilling it on surrounding paintwork. Use only the specified hydraulic fluid; mixing different types of fluid can cause damage to the system and/or a loss of braking effectiveness. After filling to the correct level, refit the cap securely. Wipe off any spilt fluid.

Coolant level Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

The coolant level varies with the temperature of the engine. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be up to the MAX mark on the side of the expansion tank located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. When the engine is hot, the level will rise slightly.

Car Care @ With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all

hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

Wait until the engine is cold, cover the expansion tank with a layer of rag and unscrew the filler cap. Wait until the hissing ceases, indicating that all pressure is released, then remove the filler cap. If more

hissing sounds are heard, wait until they have stopped before removing the cap.

@ It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze through the expansion tank filler neck, until the coolant is up to the MAX level mark. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go until it is secure.

Weekly checks oe13 Power steering fluid level Note: The power steering fluid reservoir is also used as a hydraulic fluid reservoir for the self-

levelling rear suspension system (where fitted)

HAYNES

HINT

Buus

the

check

to

be

accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

Before you start

Safety first!

VY Make sure that the car is on level ground. On models fitted with self-levelling rear suspension, make sure the vehicle is empty. VY With the engine idling, turn the steering wheel slowly from lock to lock 2 or 3 times and set the front wheels at the straight-ahead position, then stop the engine.

@ The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be _ investigated immediately.

MAX

MIN

en

GOZO

1 The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. Slowly unscrew and remove the filler cap, which incorporates a fluid level dipstick.

Check that the fluid level is between the MIN and MAX marks on the dipstick,

cloth, then place it on the filler neck base and

Where topping-up is required, add the specified type of fluid until the level reaches the MAX mark. On completion refit and tighten the cap.and tighten the filler

remove again.

cap.

preferably near the MAX mark. If necessary, wipe the dipstick with a clean

Battery Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in Safety first at the start of this manual. V Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition and that the clamp is _ tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered

with a zinc-based primer, then painted. V Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. V If the battery is flat and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

On models without air conditioning or a fresh

air

pollen

filter,

the

battery

is

located at the left-hand rear of the engine compartment under a black plastic cover. On models with air conditioning and/or a fresh air pollen filter, it is located under the rear seat cushion.

The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover. Check the tightness of the battery cable clamps to ensure good electrical connections. You 2

should not be able to move them. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them.

Automotive

stores sell a useful tool for

cleaning the battery post as well as the terminals.

o14 Weekly checks Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster

than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

ae

ZH

hf

read Depth - visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyres pressures been used,

the tyre pressures regularly with cold. Do not adjust the tyre immediately after the vehicle has or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and

Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts

the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Wear

Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks o+15 Tyre pressures Note: Pressures apply to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if any other make or type of tyre is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary. The pressures are given on the inside of the fuel filler flap.

Audi 100 models

Rear

Front

4-cylinder models: 195/65R 15 and 205/60 R 15 tyres: Half laden ONY AGONeAA aint. cesta ate. Tatas » 215/60 R 15 tyres: Half laden TBUNVSIAGONL: aus «0%aptamer essen. « Loan 5-cylinder models: 195/65R 15 and 205/60 R 15 tyres: Half laden TUHINY TEVe CET Ran Pin er eee eect eee 215/60 R 15 tyres: Half laden FACILVBIAGGM tet seta ora un eaters, Stl Guat arexe ea 6

Audi A6 models The tyre pressures for your model are listed on the inside of the fuel filler flap.

Washer fluid level Car care @ Screenwash

additives

not only keep the

windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted and will freeze in cold weather. Warning: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system - this may damage the paintwork.

The reservoir for the windscreen and headlight washer systems is on the lefthand side of the engine compartment on A6 models, or on the right-hand side of the bulkhead on 100 models.

Electrical systems V Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

des If a single light has failed, it is 1 bulb has blown. If both brake failed, it is possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter

likely that a lights have brake light 9).

A screenwash additive should be added in the quantities recommended on the bottle. A rear window washer reservoir is located in the rear luggage compartment, on the righthand side.

HAYNES

¥ Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

HINT

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators

unaided, back up to a wail or garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If more than one indicator light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a fuse has blown or there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The main fusebox is located beneath a cover on the driver’s end of the facia panel; further fuses are located in the engine compartment on the right-hand side of the bulkhead, and on the sides of the driver's and passenger’s footwells. Refer to Chapter 12 for more information. To replace a blown fuse, pull it out directly from the fusebox. Fit a new fuse of the same rating, available from car accessory shops. It is important that you find the reason that the fuse blew (see Electrical fault finding in Chapter 12).

oie Weekly checks Wiper blades

ane

Check the condition of the wiper blades. If they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. For maximum

clarity of

vision, wiper blades should annually, as a matter of course.

renewed

be

To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, then depress the locking tab with a screwdriver or your fingers.

Slide the wiper blade out of the hooked end of the arm, then feed the arm through the hole in the blade. When fitting the new blade, make sure that the blade locks securely into the arm, and that the blade is orientated correctly.

Lubricants and fluids Engine (petrol) Engine (diesel) Cooling system Manual transmission (012) Manual transmission (01E) Automatic transmission

Final drive (automatic transmission) Braking system Power steering system

Engine oil to specification VW (Duckhams Hypergrade Petro! Engine oil to specification VW (Duckhams Hypergrade Diesel

500 00, Engine 500 00, Engine

or VW Oil, or or VW Oil, or

501 01, viscosity SAE 10W-30 to 15W-50 Duckhams QXR Premium Petrol Engine Oil) 505 00, viscosity SAE 10W-30 to 15W-50 Duckhams QXR Premium Diesel Engine Oil)

Antifreeze G 011 V8C, or to specification TL-VW 774 C (Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant) Synthetic gear oil G50, viscosity SAE 75W-90

(Duckhams Hypoid Gear Oil 75W-90 GL-4) Synthetic gear oil GO52 911A, viscosity SAE 75W-90 (Duckhams Hypoid Gear Oil 75W-90 GL-4) Dexron II type ATF (Duckhams ATF Autotrans III) Synthetic gear oil G50, viscosity SAE 75W-90 (Duckhams Hypoid Gear Oil 75W-90 GL-4) Hydraulic fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid) Audi/VAG hydraulic oil G 002 000

Choosing your engine oil Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise

power output and to improve fuel economy.

By introducing a simplified and improved range of engine oils, Duckhams has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you to choose the right oil for your engine.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS ¢ Beating friction Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up.

¢ Cooling hot-spots Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000° C. The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump.

¢ Cleaning the engine internally Good quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing

combustion

deposits and controlling them

until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out at oil change.

OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE To handle and dispose of used engine oil safely, always: e Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. e Dispose of used oil and empty packs in a responsible manner in an authorised disposal site. Call 0800 663366 to find the one nearest to you. Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.

DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS For the driver who demands a premium quality oil for complete reassurance, we recommend synthetic formula Duckhams

QXR Premium Engine Oils. For the driver who requires a straightforward quality engine oil, we recommend Duckhams Hypergrade Engine Oils.

For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988.

1Ae1

Chapter 1 Part A Routine maintenance and servicing - petrol models

Contents ALeEROleMentireneWall..c..c.0cece ka cee ese yewaw wees ma eee FALURGOZCICHECK wi. Pyrrenrne ire oles abies stains ate ais ald phe w1eie amino Automatic transmission fluid level check ...........0.0+000eee Automatic transmission fluid renewal ...............00200e0eAuxiliary drivebelt (non-ribbed type) check and renewal ......... Auxiliary drivebelt (ribbed type) check and renewal ............. Auxiliary drivebelt renewal (4-cylinder engines) ..........-.....

3 Headlight beamradlstment check os.) : ene. eens sete s 8 13: -HingetandriockilWoncationice,. severest ce eral ie ene ena 9 28: Introduction aoe arcett scatterers ere atten ee ea eee ee 1 35 Manualitransmission‘oillevelicheck fia... a2. < ee ean keene 30 15 . Pollensfilterremeweal Sevcsgece o-01:s2ncr- teen aes Gt cee Si ie hee 26 24 Rear brake pad/shoe wear check ..........020ceecencceccees We 34. .RegularsimaintenanCe sce opts otsrcustey tsceivech)oegegeed epee pe eon 2

Battery electrolyte level check

AO

.... 2.6.0 500 csc e cence

eens

(ROBO TOSE Gs Sites sey

atthesitant eaaocmtucs meter

eRe

20

Brake flexible hose and rigid pipe check ................-20-- 16 Self-levelling suspension system fluid level check (1991 models) .. 23 Site TUTE EWE a 2s 5b oo ne He Oe Sane te one eno hah onan ec 37 — Self-levelling suspension system fluid level check (1992-on models) . . 33 Bulkhead water drain valves clearance ........-.....2000eeeee 6 Service.intervalidisplayreset : Hatraan ath ame ++ haiepvobe Sigh rete 2 3 gikeyienesy sada ccs. «See hr OL ee ee ee Bens eerie soe Sere: Re Oe Oe tet 5 ee sans nostarsunia are Ogee

40 30 60 44 Angle-tighten 180° (or 2 x 90°) 10 7 20 15 45 33 40 30 35 26

_ Except ADR engine (continued) | Crankshaft front oil seal housing: M6 bolts

M8 bolts M6 bolts

Stage 3 Cylinder head outlet

Engine liftingeye....................0--. Engine mounting to body Engine support to engine mounting Exhaust downpipe to manifold Flywheel/driveplate mounting bolts: Stage 1

_

Soa ess n Hyeoeewe Spenser ners te Pied Manne etnies Hall sender plate to inlet manifold é eb aieet ope eum as tecaiige Hall sender to cylinder head # whyapa aetide Gyarelegr cuenaints Intermediate shaft flange bolts 3 ae eae cokes iehate oe Intermediate shaft sprocket Sia ortnes ec cagatoicas eetenee Main bearing cap bolts Ay eer Bi ete Oil filter housing 5 SBayiecs xe Chau pemonss conteltn te BPs STR RSE ie Oil pump cover Oil pump mounting store ees asfessuaPeuey © sere eee ei Oil temperature sender ................... STE Pe iete AP IeTS BNE Ore riba ceunsepare eee v ar Power steering pump sade gman see esses, have Ce Sump iageiche oes cyan ates estos Timing belt cover jcdpra eeaotateae eases tee fete Timing belt rear guard Timing belt tensioner: By Ree eRe Lk ee Lock bolt [EVE TIAN Re EM UL eee eters Been, Sere ees eNO re oR peaey nereuscs easy agen

Stage 2

1

General information

Using this Chapter Chapter 2 is divided into five Parts; A, B, C, D and E. Repair operations that can be carried out with the engine in the vehicle are described in Part A (4-cylinder petrol engines), Part B (5-cylinder petrol engines), Part C (4-cylinder diesel engines) and Part D (5-cylinder diesel engines). Part E covers the removal of the engine/transmission as a unit, and describes the engine dismantling and overhaul procedures. In Parts A, B, C and D, the assumption is made that the engine is installed in the vehicle, with all ancillaries connected. If the engine has been removed for overhaul, the preliminary dismantling information which precedes each operation may be ignored. Access to the engine bay can be improved by removing the bonnet as described in Chapter 11.

30 Angle-tighten 90° 25 10 25 80 65 Ao. 10 20 10 20 20 10 20

22

20 10

15 7

Engine description Throughout this Chapter, engines are identified and referred to by _ the manufacturer’s code letters, rather than capacity. A listing of all engines covered, together with their code letters, is given in the Specifications. The engines are water-cooled, single or double overhead camshaft, in-line fourcylinder units, with cast-iron cylinder blocks and aluminium-alloy cylinder heads. All are mounted longitudinally at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission bolted to the rear of the engine. The crankshaft is of fivebearing type, and thrust washers are fitted to the centre main bearing to control crankshaft endfloat. The camshaft is driven by a toothed belt from the crankshaft sprocket. On the ADR

and ACE double overhead camshaft engines, the timing belt drives the exhaust camshaft, and the inlet camshaft is driven from the exhaust camshaft by chain at the rear of the camshafts. On the ADR engine a mechanical camshaft adjuster is fitted in the middle of the chain to automatically vary the inlet camshaft valve timing. The belt also drives the

18 7 18 59 48 18 if 15 7 ale) 15 7 15

intermediate shaft, which is used to drive the oil pump and, on some engines, the distributor. The valves are operated from the camshaft through hydraulic bucket type tappets, and the valve clearances are adjusted automatically. The cylinder head carries the single or double camshafts which are driven by the toothed timing belt. It also houses the inlet and exhaust valves, which are closed by single or double coil springs, and which run in guides pressed into the cylinder head. The camshaft actuates the valves directly via hydraulic tappets, mounted in the cylinder

head. oilways

The cylinder head which

supply

contains and

integral

lubricate

the

tappets. Engine coolant is circulated by a pump, driven by the auxiliary drivebelt. For details of the cooling system, refer to Chapter 3. Lubricant is circulated under pressure by a

pump, driven by the intermediate shaft. Oil is drawn from the sump through a strainer, and then forced through an externally-mounted, replaceable screw-on

distributed

filter. From there, it is

to the cylinder

head,

where

it

2Ae4

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

lubricates the camshaft journals and hydraulic tappets, and also to the crankcase, where it lubricates the main bearings, connecting rod big-ends, gudgeon pins and cylinder bores. Two oil pressure switches are located on the oil filter housing, the lower one operating at 0.3 bars and upper one at 1.8 bars.

Repairs possible with the engine installed in the vehicle : The following operations can be performed without removing the engine:a) Auxiliary drivebelts - removal and refitting. b) Camshaft(s) - removal and refitting.* c) Camshaft oil seal - renewal. d) e)

f) g)

Camshaft sprocket - removal and refitting. Coolant pump - removal and refitting (refer to Chapter 3) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal. Crankshaft sprocket - removal and refitting.

h) i) j) k)

Cylinder head - removal and refitting. * Engine mountings - inspection and renewal. Intermediate shaft oil seal - renewal. Oil pump and pickup assembly - removal and refitting. !) Sump - removal and refitting. m) Timing belt, sprockets and cover removal, inspection and refitting. *Cylinder head dismantling procedures are detailed in Chapter 2E, with details of camshaft and hydraulic tappet removal. Note: /t is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine . However,

this is not recommended.

Work of

this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described in Chapter 2E.

2 Engine valve timing marks -

SS

general information and usage

N ~

General information 1 The

crankshaft,

camshaft

and _ the

intermediate shaft sprockets are driven by the timing belt, and rotate in phase with each other. When the timing belt is removed during servicing or repair, it is possible for the shafts to rotate independently of each other, and the correct phasing is then lost. 2 The design of the engines covered in this Chapter is such that piston-to-valve contact will occur if the crankshaft is turned with the timing belt removed. For this reason, it is important that the correct phasing between the camshaft, crankshaft and intermediate

a = : 2.4a TDC timing marks on the crankshaft

2.4b TDC timing marks on the camshaft

pulley and lower timing belt cover (ADR engine)

sprocket and inner timing cover (ADR engine)

to ensure that the correct shaft phasing is restored. 3 TDC is the highest position a piston reaches within its respective cylinder - ina four-stroke engine, each piston reaches TDC twice per cycle; once on the compression

location of No 1 HT lead on the cap then remove the cap and make a mark on the distributor body. This will help you determine when No 1 piston is at TDC. 10 Remove all of the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 11 Turn the engine clockwise with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley and use a suitable rubber plug over No 1 spark plug hole to determine when No 1 piston is on its compression stroke (pressure will be felt through the spark plug hole). On engines with a distributor the rotor arm, will be approaching the mark made in paragraph 8. 12 Continue turning the engine in a clockwise direction until the TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley or flywheel/driveplate is aligned with the corresponding mark on the timing cover or

stroke, and once

on the exhaust

stroke.

In

general, TDC normally refers to No 1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Note that the cylinders are numbered one to four, starting from the timing belt end of the engine. 4 The crankshaft pulley has a marking which, when aligned with a reference marking on the timing belt cover, indicates that No 1 cylinder (and hence also No 4 cylinder) is at TDC (see illustrations). 5 The camshaft sprocket (exhaust camshaft on DOHC engines) is also equipped with a timing mark - when this is aligned with a mark on the inner timing belt cover, No 1 cylinder is at TDC compression. 6 In addition, the flywheel/driveplate has TDC markings which can be observed by removing a protective cover from the transmission bellhousing.

transmission casing. For an additional check,

remove the upper timing belt expose the camshaft timing TDC marks. The lower timing also be removed if necessary marks on the crankshaft intermediate shaft sprocket.

outer cover to belt sprocket belt cover can to check the pulley and

Setting TDC on No 1 cylinder 7 Before starting work, make sure the ignition is switched off and prevent any vehicle movement by putting the transmission in neutral, applying the handbrake and chocking the wheels. 8 Where applicable, remove the engine top cover (see illustrations). 9 On

engines

with

a distributor,

note

the

3 Cylinder compression test

A

NS 1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the ignition or fuel systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the

shaft is preserved whilst the timing belt is off the engine. This is achieved by setting the engine in a reference condition (known as Top

Dead Centre or TDC) before the timing belt is removed, and then preventing the shafts from rotating until the belt is refitted. Similarly, if the engine has been dismantled for overhaul, the

engine can be set to TDC during reassembly

-_— 2.8a Release the clips ...

2.8b ... and remove the engine top cover (ADR engine)

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before

any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fully charged, and all the spark plugs must be removed (refer to Chapter 1A). The aid of an assistant will also be required. Where applicable, remove the engine top cover. 3 Disable the ignition system on engines with a distributor by disconnecting the ignition HT coil lead from the distributor cap and earthing it on the cylinder block. Use a jumper lead or similar wire to make a good connection. On engines without a distributor, disconnect the

wiring from the ignition coil unit (see Chapter 5B). 4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1 cylinder spark plug hole - the type of tester which screws into the plug thread is preferable. 5 Have an assistant hold the throttle wide open, then crank the engine on the starter motor; after one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build up to a maximum figure, and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. Keep the

4

head removal procedure; see Section 11 later in this Chapter.

Timing belt - removal, inspection and refitting

Removal

WH 3

General information 1 The primary function of the toothed timing belt is to drive the camshaft(s), but it is also used to drive the intermediate shaft. Should the belt slip or break

2Ae5

in service, the valve

timing will be disturbed and piston-to-valve contact will occur, resulting in serious engine

damage. For this reason, it is important that the timing belt is tensioned correctly, and inspected regularly for signs of wear or deterioration. 2 Note that the removal of the inner section of the timing belt cover on AAE, ABK, AAD engines is described as part of the cylinder

Before starting work, disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Chapter 5A). 4 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). 5 Remove the radiator (Chapter 3), and the drivebelts for the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner compressor (if fitted) as described in Section 6 (see illustration). 6 Unbolt the undershield from under the engine. Where applicable, remove the engine top cover. 7 For better

access,

the alternator,

power

steering pump and air conditioner compressor may be removed, leaving the lines connected to the pump and compressor. Also unbolt and

throttle wide open.

7 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures; a difference of more than 3 bars between any two cylinders indicates a fault. Note that the compression should build up quickly in a healthy engine; low compression on the first stroke, followed by graduallyincreasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). 8 Refer to the Specifications section of this Chapter, and compare the recorded compression figures with those stated by the manufacturer. 9 If the pressure in any cylinder is low, carry out the following test to isolate the cause. Introduce a teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinder through its spark plug hole, and repeat the test. 10 If the addition of oil temporarily improves the compression pressure, this indicates that bore or piston wear is responsible for the pressure loss. No improvement suggests that leaking or burnt valves, or a blown head gasket, may be to blame. 11 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them. 12 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lower than the others and the engine has a slightly rough idle, a worn camshaft lobe could be the

cause. 13 On completion of the test, refit the spark plugs and leads and top cover.

—"

H.(9941

4.5 Auxiliary drivebelt and timing belt components (AAE, ACE, ABK and AAD engines)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Upper timing cover Nut Plug Timing belt Tensioner Nut

7 8 9 10 11 12

Rear timing belt cover Stud Bolt Drivebelt Pulley Bolt

13 14 15 16

Lower timing cover Crankshaft sprocket Bolt Intermediate shaft sprocket 17 Bolt

2A°6

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

4.10 Removing the upper timing cover (ADR engine)

4.7 Removing the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner (ADR engine)

4.11b

... and withdraw the crankshaft

4.12

pulley

remove the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner (see illustration). 8 Using an Allen key, unscrew the bolts and remove the pulley from the water pump. 9 Unscrew the nut, and remove the special bolt retaining the lower timing cover to the water pump assembly. 10 Release the clips, and (where fitted) unscrew the nut, then remove the upper timing cover (see illustration). 11 Mark the crankshaft pulley/vibration damper and crankshaft sprocket in relation to each other, then unbolt the pulley using an Allen key (see illustrations). 12 Unscrew the bolts, and remove the lower timing belt cover (see __ illustration). Depending on the engine type, an Allen key

Removing the lower timing belt cover (ADR engine)

will be required for one of the bolts. Recover the special spacer from the top of the cover. 13 Turn the crankshaft clockwise with a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, until the mark on the rear of the camshaft sprocket is

aligned with the top of the cylinder head on the left-hand side. On non-ADR engines, temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley/

Inspection 18 Examine the belt for evidence of contamination by coolant or lubricant. If this is the case, find the source of the contamination

before progressing any further. Check the belt for signs of wear or damage, particularly

15

is a wise precaution to hang a warning label on the steering wheel, to remind yourself (and others) not to attempt to start the engine.

On AAE, ABK

and AAD

engines,

loosen

16

On ACE

engines, insert two close-fitting

drill bits or 90° circlip pliers in the tensioner hub holes and hold the hub stationary, then

unscrew the nut and release the pressure to de-tension the belt. 17 Mark the timing belt with an arrow to indicate its normal direction of rotation, then

bit to hold it (ADR engine)

to be re-used, it must be refitted the same way round. Do not bend the timing belt sharply if it is to be re-used.

vibration damper and check that the mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the intermediate shaft sprocket (see illustration). 14 On the ADR engine, have ready a suitable drill bit or dowel to insert through the small hole at the top of the spring tensioner housing. Using an 8 mm Allen key, turn the tensioner wheel anticlockwise against the spring tension until the drill bit can be inserted to hold the tensioner in its released position (see illustration). Do not unscrew the bolt securing the tensioner to the eccentric hub.

the bolt and turn the tensioner hub clockwise to release the tension on the timing belt.

4.14 Using an Allen key, turn the tensioner wheel anticlockwise, then insert the drill

4.13 TDC timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and intermediate shaft sprocket (non-ADR engines)

remove it from the tensioner, camshaft sprocket, intermediate shaft sprocket, and the crankshaft sprocket. Note: /f the timing belt is

around the leading edges of the belt teeth. Renew the belt if its condition is in doubt; the cost of belt renewal is negligible compared with potential cost of the engine repairs, should the belt fail in service. The belt must be renewed if it has covered the mileage stated by the manufacturer (see Chapter 1A), however if it has covered less it is prudent to renew

it regardless

of

condition,

as

a

precautionary measure. Note: /f the timing belt is not going to be refitted for some time, it

Refitting 19 Temporarily refit the vibration damper pulley to the crankshaft sprocket and hold with one bolt. Ensure that the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket, vibration damper and intermediate shaft sprocket are still correctly aligned. 20 Locate the timing belt on the sprockets and around the tensioner wheel, making sure

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

2Ae7

a 6 4.20a Timing belt located on the intermediate shaft sprocket

4.20b

Locating the timing b elt on the

Ma

4.22b

It should just be possible to twist the timing belt through 90°

that it is the right way round if re-using the original belt (see illustrations). The belt must now be tensioned. 21 On the ADR engine, use the 8 mm Allen key to turn the tensioner wheel anticlockwise then remove the drill bit and release the wheel to tension the belt. 22 On AAE, ABK and AAD engines, Audi

technicians use a special tool which engages the two holes in the tensioner wheel, however 90° circlip pliers or two close-fitting drill bits ~and a lever can be used. Turn the tensioner anticlockwise until it is just possible to twist the timing belt through 90° at a point midway between the camshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets using the finger and thumb only. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque (see illustrations).

23 On ACE engines, with the nut loose turn the eccentric hub anticlockwise as far as possible to tension the timing belt, then turn the hub clockwise until the pointers on the hub are aligned. Tighten the nut to the specified torque. Use the tools described in paragraph 22. 24 Using a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the engine two complete revolutions in a clockwise direction, then return it to the TDC position and check that the timing marks align correctly. On the ACE engine, check that the pointers on the tensioner wheel hub are aligned, then press firmly on the timing belt with the thumb and check that the pointers

4.22a

tensioner wheel

4.22c

ey

a

ii

Tightening the tensioner nut

4.26 Tightening the vibration damper retaining bolts with a torque wrench

move in relation to each other - after releasing the belt the pointers must be aligned again. 25 Remove the vibration damper then refit the lower timing belt cover and tighten the bolts. 26 Refit the vibration damper and tighten the retaining bolts (see illustration). 27 Refit the upper timing belt cover and where fitted tighten the nut. 28 Refit the special bolt retaining the lower timing belt cover to the water pump assembly. 29 Refit the pulley to the water pump and tighten the bolts using an Allen key. 30 As applicable, refit the alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner. 31 Refit the undershield beneath the engine. Where applicable, refit the engine top cover. 32 Refit and tension the drivebelts with reference to Chapter 1A. 33 Lower the vehicle to the ground and reconnect the battery negative lead.

5

safely retained with the drill bit (see Section 4), then unscrew the bolt from the eccentric hub. Unscrew the tensioner mounting bolts including the one on the hub, and withdraw

from the front of the engine (see illustration). 3 To remove the tensioner components on AAE, ABK and AAD engines, unscrew the bolt from the slot then unbolt the tensioner assembly from the front of the engine. Unscrew the nut and remove the tensioner wheel from the stud. 4 To remove the tensioner components on the ACE engine, unscrew the nut and remove

the hub from the stud engine.

Camshaft sprocket

HHP

Removal 1 Remove Section 4.

the timing belt as described

in

Tensioner 2 To remove the tensioner and wheel on the ADR engine, make sure that the spring is

on the front of the

5 Unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt, while holding the sprocket stationary using a tool as

Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection and refitting

Using circlip pliers to turn the tensioner hub

2Ae98 4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

camshaft sprocket while loosening the bolt

shown (see illustrations). Remove the bolt, washer, sprocket, and key.

Intermediate shaft sprocket 6 Unscrew the intermediate shaft sprocket bolt while holding the sprocket using the tool shown in paragraph 5. Remove the bolt, sprocket, and key.

Crankshaft sprocket 7 Unscrew the crankshaft sprocket bolt, and remove the sprocket. The bolt is very tight, and the crankshaft must be held stationary. On manual gearbox models, engage top gear and apply the footbrake pedal firmly. On automatic

transmission

models,

unbolt the

transmission front cover and use a widebladed screwdriver in the ring gear to hold the crankshaft stationary. Note on the ADR engine the bolt has a 19 mm double-hexagon head.

Inspection 8 Clean all the sprockets and examine them for wear and damage. Spin the tensioner wheel, and check that it runs smoothly. 9 Check the tensioner for signs of wear and/or damage and renew if necessary.

Refitting Crankshaft sprocket 10

Locate the sprocket

on the crankshaft,

then tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the crankshaft stationary using

5.5c Removing the Woodruff key

5.5b Removing the camshaft sprocket bolt

the method illustration). crankshaft as valves. 11 Refit the Section 4.

employed on removal (see Note: Do not rotate the the pistons may contact the

timing

belt as

described

in

Intermediate shaft sprocket 12 Locate the key on the intermediate shaft and refit the sprocket and bolt. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the sprocket using the method employed on removal. 13 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.

Camshaft sprocket 14 Locate the key on the camshaft and refit the sprocket, washer and bolt. Tighten the bolt to the specified torque while holding the sprocket using the method employed on removal. Note on the ADR engine the sprocket must be refitted with the narrow web pointing in the direction of travel. 15 Refit the timing belt as described in Section 4.

Tensioner 16 Refit the tensioner and tensioner wheel and tighten the tensioner body mounting bolts to the specified torque. On ADR engines make sure the spring is retained by the drill bit. On AAE, ABK and AAD engines leave the bolt loose in the slot at this stage but tighten the eccentric hub nut. On ACE engines, leave the

nut loose at this stage. 17 Refit the timing belt as Section 4.

described

in

6 Auxiliary drivebelts - removal, EN refitting and tensioning

NS

hi

1 Depending on the vehicle specification and engine type, one, two or three auxiliary drivebelts may be fitted. On ADR engines, the

5.10 Tightening the crankshaft sprocket bolt

main drivebelt drives the alternator and power steering pump from the crankshaft pulley, and the coolant pump is driven from the power steering pump by a second drivebelt. Where

air conditioning is fitted on the ADR engine, the compressor is driven by a separate drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley. The main and compressor drivebelts on the ADR engines are of ribbed-type, however the coolant pump drivebelt is of vee-type. On all other 4-cylinder engines, the alternator and coolant pump are driven by the main drivebelt and where fitted the air conditioning compressor or power steering pump is driven by a separate drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley. The drivebelts on these engines are of vee-type - the air conditioning drivebelt tension is adjusted with shims and the power steering pump drivebelt tension is adjusted by moving the pump. 2 On the ADR engine, the main drivebelt tension is automatically adjusted and there is no adjustment for the coolant pump drivebelt. The compressor drivebelt tension is adjusted using a torque wrench. 3 On all other 4-cylinder engines, the main drivebelt tension is adjusted by positioning the alternator and the compressor is adjusted by fitting shims between the pulley halves. 4 To remove the drivebelts first apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Where applicable, remove the undershield from under the engine compartment.

ADR engine Removal 5 If the drivebelt is to be re-used, mark it for clockwise direction to ensure it is refitted the same way round. 6 On models with air conditioning, unbolt the engine front torque arm from the engine and crossmember, then unscrew the bolts and remove the drivebelt tensioner from the front of the engine. Remove the drivebelt from the pulleys. 7 To remove the main drivebelt, the automatic tensioner must be released and held with a special pin. Using a suitable spanner on the flats, move the tensioner clockwise until the pin holes are aligned then insert a suitable metal rod, bolt or drill bit to

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

2AeQ9

drivebelt is being refitted, the deflection should be 5.0 mm. Hold the tensioner rack nut in this position, then tighten the lock bolt, followed by

6.7a Using a bolt to hold the auxiliary drivebelt tensioner in its released position (ADR engine) | hold the tensioner in its released position (see illustrations). Remove the drivebelt from the _ crankshaft, alternator, and power steering pump pulleys and from under the guide and tensioner pulleys. 8 To remove the coolant pump drivebelt, first hold the power steering pump pulley | stationary using a screwdriver inserted from | the rear of the pump, then unscrew the bolts securing the pulley to the coolant pump. Remove the drivebelt and the two halves of the pulley.

Refitting and tensioning 9 Locate the coolant pump drivebelt on the power steering pump pulley, then loosely assemble the two halves of the pulley and the drivebelt on the coolant pump and insert the retaining bolts loosely. 10 Press the two halves of the pulley together while turning the pulleys and progressively tighten the retaining bolts. The belt must not be allowed to become trapped between the two halves of the pulley. Finally, tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 11 Locate the main drivebelt on the pulleys, then initially turn the tensioner clockwise and remove the retaining pin. Release the tensioner to tension the drivebelt, making sure that it is correctly located on all the pulleys. 12 On models with air conditioning, locate the

drivebelt

on

the

compressor

and

crankshaft pulleys, then refit the tensioner and hand-tighten the retaining bolts. Make sure the drivebelt locates on the tensioner pulley.

6.7b

Removing the auxiliary drivebelt from the alternator pulley (ADR engine)

the pivot and link bolts. 19 The second method of tensioning the drivebelt requires the use of a torque wrench. First check that the pivot bolt is loose and that the alternator moves freely. Tighten the tensioner rack nut to 8 Nm for a new belt or 4 Nm for a used belt using a torque wrench, then tighten the pivot bolt to hold the alternator in this position. Tighten the lock bolt and the link bolt making sure that the alternator does not move.

7 13 Tension the drivebelt by applying a torque of 25 Nm to the hexagon on the tensioner body. Hold this torque then tighten the adjustment and pivot bolts.

Except ADR engine

Camshaft cover removal and refitting

Wi

ADR engine Removal

Removal

1 Where

14 To remove the air conditioning compressor drivebelt, hold the pulley stationary then unscrew the bolts and remove the pulley halves from the compressor together with the drivebelt. 15 To remove the power steering pump drivebelt, loosen the pump mounting bolts in the adjustment slots and move the pump towards the crankshaft pulley. Slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 16 To remove the main alternator/coolant pump drivebelt, loosen the alternator mounting and adjustment link bolts, then loosen the lock bolt and turn the rack nut to move the alternator back along the adjustment rack. Slip the drivebelt from the pulleys.

the top of the engine. 2 Loosen the clips and remove the air duct from between the air cleaner and throttle housing 3 Disconnect the wiring from the ignition located on the upper rear of the engine.

Refitting and adjustment

cover.

17 Locate the main drivebelt on the pulleys and turn the adjustment bolt until the drivebelt is held in position. 18 There are two methods of tensioning the drivebelt.

With

the

first

method,

turn

the

tensioner rack nut to move the alternator away from the engine, until the drivebelt deflection half way between the pulleys is approximately 2.0 mm under firm thumb pressure. If a used

unscrew

necessary,

remove the covers from

the nut and disconnect

inlet the

coil Also the earth

cable. 4 Unscrew

the

mounting

bolts,

then

disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and remove the ignition coil (see illustration). 5 Progressively unscrew the mounting nuts and remove the camshaft cover from the cylinder head. 6 Remove the main gasket and central gasket from the cylinder head. 7 Remove the oil deflector from the camshaft

Refitting 8 Clean the surfaces of the camshaft cover and cylinder head, then locate the new gaskets in position. 9 Refit the oil deflector to the camshaft cover. 10 Locate the camshaft cover on the cylinder head studs and progressively tighten the nuts to the specified torque. 11 Refit the ignition coil and connect the HT leads to the spark plugs. 12 Reconnect the earth cable and ignition coil wiring. 13 Refit the air inlet duct and tighten the clips. 14 Where necessary, refit the covers to the top of the engine.

Except ADR engine Removal 15 Release the clips, and (where fitted) unscrew the nut, then remove the upper timing cover from the front of the engine. 16 Unscrew the nuts, and remove the timing 7.4 Removing the ignition coil and HT leads (ADR engine)

7.16 Re moving the timing belt rear upper cover (non-ADR engines)

belt rear upper cover from the front of the

valve cover (see illustration).

2A9®10

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

533

7.17

Unscrew the nuts

7.18a ... remove the reinforcement

..

strips

7.18b

...and lift off the camshaft cover

(non-ADR engines)

...

17 Unscrew the remaining camshaft cover nuts, noting the location of the wire retaining straps and the earth terminal (see illustration).

18 Remove the reinforcement strips, and lift off the camshaft cover (see illustrations). 19 Remove the _ oil deflector (see illustration). 20 Remove the gasket from the studs on the cylinder head (see illustration). 21 Remove the semi-circular gasket from the groove in the camshaft front bearing cap. Also remove the rubber plug from the rear of the cylinder head (see illustrations).

7.19 Removing the oil deflector

Refitting 22 Clean the surfaces of the camshaft cover and cylinder head. 23 Fit the rubber plug to the rear of the cylinder head, and the semi-circular gasket to the groove in the camshaft front bearing cap. 24 Fit anew gasket over the studs on the top of the cylinder head. 25 Fit the oil deflector. 26 Fit the camshaft cover and reinforcement strips. 27 Fit the timing belt rear upper cover, then fit the valve cover nuts and_ tighten

progressively to the specified torque. 28 Refit the upper timing cover, tighten the nut and press on the clips.

Ss 7.21a

e*

&

8

7.20 Camshaft cover gasket removal

Camshaft oil seal - renewal

WH 1 Remove the camshaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Drill two small holes into the existing oil seal, diagonally opposite each other. Thread two self-tapping screws into the holes, and using two pairs of pliers, pull on the heads of the screws to extract the oil seal. Take great care to avoid drilling through into the seal housing or camshaft sealing surface.

sale

-

3 Clean out the seal housing and sealing surface of the camshaft by wiping it with a lint-free cloth. Remove any swarf or burrs that may cause the seal to leak. 4 Lubricate the lip and outer edge of the new oil seal with clean engine oil, and push it over the camshaft until it is positioned above its housing. 5 Using a hammer and a socket of suitable diameter, drive the seal squarely into its housing. Note: Select a socket that bears only on the hard outer surface of the seal, not the inner lip which can easily be damaged. 6 Refit the camshaft sprocket with reference

to Section 5.

om

Removing the camshaft cover front bearing cap gasket

...

7.21b

...and rear rubber plug

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

9 Intermediate shaft oil seal renewal on

Ss ~

xhi

1 Remove the intermediate shaft sprocket as described in Section 5. 2 Drill two small holes into the existing oil seal, diagonally opposite each other. Thread two self-tapping screws into the holes, and using two pairs of pliers, pull on the heads of the screws to extract the oil seal. Take great care to avoid drilling through into the seal flange. An alternative method is to unbolt the flange, remove the inner O-ring from the inner groove, and illustrations).

press

out

the

seal

(see

3.Clean out the seal flange and sealing surface of the camshaft by wiping it with a lint-free cloth. Remove any swarf or burrs that may cause the seal to leak. 4 Lubricate the lip and outer edge of the new oil seal with clean engine oil, and start it in its housing by hand initially making sure that the closed end of the seal is facing outwards. Note: On the ADR engine, if a seal fitting sleeve is being used, do not lubricate the oil seal. 5 Using a hammer and a socket of suitable diameter, drive the seal squarely into its housing. Note: Select a socket that bears only on the hard outer surface of the seal, not the inner lip which can easily be damaged. 6 Where the flange has been removed, renew the O-ring, then refit the flange and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. 7 Refit the intermediate shaft sprocket with reference to Section 5.

? 0 Crankshaft oil seals renewal

2Ae11

9.2a Removing the O-ring from the inner groove on the intermediate shaft oil seal flange

9.2b Removing the oil seal from the intermediate shaft oil seal flange

tapping screws, and pulling on the heads of the screws with pliers (see illustration). Alternatively, unbolt and remove the housing (including the relevant sump bolts) and remove the gasket then drive out the oil seal on the bench. On the ADR engine, remove the intermediate shaft sprocket as well for improved access. If the sump gasket is damaged while removing the housing, it will be necessary to remove the sump and fit a new gasket. However, refit the sump after fitting the housing. 3 Dip the new seal in engine oil and drive it into the housing with a block of wood or a socket until flush (see illustration). Make sure that the closed end of the seal is facing outwards. 4 Fit the housing, together with a new gasket, and tighten the bolts evenly in diagonal

remove the gasket then drive out the oil seal on the bench. If the sump gasket is damaged

5 Refit

the

timing

belt

and

the

housing,

it will

be

dip the new seal in engine oil and drive it into the housing with a block of wood or a socket until flush. Make sure that the closed end of the seal is facing outwards. 9 Fit the housing, together with a new gasket, and tighten the bolts evenly in diagonal

sequence. 10 Refit the flywheel/driveplate, reference to Section 13.

11 Cylinder head -

with

NS

removal and refitting

SN

~

crankshaft

sprocket, with reference to Section 5.

Note: Cylinder head dismantling and overhaul is covered in Chapter 2E.

Remove the _ flywheel/driveplate, HH 6reference to Section 13.

1 Remove the timing belt and crankshaft sprocket, with reference to Section 5. 2 The seal may be renewed without removing the housing by drilling two small holes diagonally opposite each other, inserting self-

removing

necessary to remove the sump and fit a new gasket. However, refit the sump after fitting the housing. 8 Drive the old seal out of the housing, then

sequence.

Crankshaft rear oil seal (flywheel end)

Crankshaft front oil seal

while

ADR engine with

7 The seal may be renewed without removing the housing by drilling two small holes diagonally opposite each other, inserting selftapping screws, and pulling on the heads of the screws with pliers (see illustration).

Alternatively, unbolt and remove the housing (including

the

relevant

sump

bolts)

and

Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead

(see Chapter 5A). 2 Remove the undershield from under the engine compartment. If necessary, temporarily jack up the front of the car. Where applicable, remove the engine top cover. 3 Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the

P

10.2 Removing the crankshaft front oil seal

10.3 Using a socket and mallet to drive the crankshaft front oil seal into the housing

10.7

Removing the crankshaft rear oil seal

é

2Ae912

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures exhaust downpipe from the exhaust manifold. Support the downpipe on an axle stand and recover the gasket.

4 Unscrew the nuts and bolts and remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head. Recover the gasket. 5 Drain the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1A. Also drain the coolant from the engine by disconnecting the small hose from the thermostat housing. 6 Loosen the clip and disconnect the top hose at the coolant pipe.

7 Disconnect Ve

11.12

Disconnecting the wiring from the Hall sender unit (ADR engine)

the

wiring

from

the

inlet

manifold variable choke valve behind the alternator. 8 Disconnect the wiring from the inlet air

temperature sender below the variable choke valve. 9 Loosen the clip and disconnect the expansion tank hose from the coolant pipe on top of the engine. 10 Loosen the clips and remove the air inlet duct from the air cleaner and throttle housing. 11 Disconnect the wiring from the injectors. 12 Disconnect the wiring from the Hall sender unit on the front left-hand side of the cylinder head (see illustration). 13 At the rear of the cylinder head, disconnect the wiring from the automatic camshaft adjustment valve. 14 Disconnect the wiring from the ignition coil located on the upper rear of the engine. Also unscrew the earth cable. 15 Unscrew the mounting nuts from the

ignition coil. Disconnect the HT leads from the spark plugs and remove the ignition coil. 16 Disconnect the wiring from the temperature sender(s) on the rear of the

cylinder head. Note: The second sender is only fitted on models equipped with air conditioning. 17 Disconnect the wiring from the throttle position switch. 18 On the coolant pipe bracket at the rear of the cylinder head, disconnect the wiring for the alternator warning light. 19 Release the wiring harness from the cable ties and position it on the bulkhead. 20 Disconnect the fuel feed and return hoses at the fuel rail and plug them to prevent loss of fuel. 21 Unhook the accelerator cable from the throttle lever, disconnect it from the support and position it to one side. 22 Disconnect the air conditioning vacuum hoses and the brake servo unit vacuum hose. 23 Unbolt the inlet manifold support bracket located near the fuel pressure regulator. 24 Disconnect the heater matrix hoses at the bulkhead. The inlet hose is disconnected using a screwdriver to lift the clip, and the return hose is disconnected by loosening the clip. 25 Unbolt and remove the rear coolant pipe. 26 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Section 6. 27 Unscrew the bolts securing the inlet

manifold

11.27

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Cylinder head gasket Cylinder head bolts Exhaust manifold gasket Exhaust manifold Exhaust manifold nuts Camshaft cover Camshaft cover nuts

Cylinder head external components

8 9 10 11 12 13

Camshaft cover gasket Oil deflector Cylinder head Inlet manifold gasket Inlet manifold bolts Inlet manifold

14 Inlet manifold changeover valve 15 Inlet air temperature sender 16 Vacuum unit for changeover valve

to

the

cylinder

head

(see

illustration). 28 Unscrew the inlet manifold at the lower rubber bushes, then remove the manifold from the cylinder head and position to one side. Recover the gasket. 29 Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring at the bulkhead. 30 Unclip and unbolt the upper timing belt

cover. 31 Refer to Section 4 and remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. Note that the crankshaft pulley and lower timing cover need not be removed. 32 Using a splined socket, unscrew the cylinder head bolts a turn at a time, in reverse order to the tightening sequence (see

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

2Ae13

illustration 11.39) and remove them together \ with their washers. , 33 With all the bolts removed, lift the cylinder ' head from the block. If it is stuck, tap it free \ with a wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever _ into the gasket joint. | 34 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the _ block.

|Refitting | 35 Thoroughly clean the contact faces of the _ cylinder head and block. Also clean any oil or _ coolant from the bolt holes in the block - if this precaution is not taken, not only will the

tightening torque be incorrect but there is the possibility of damaging the block. The cylinder head bolts must be renewed whenever removed. 36° Locate a new gasket on the block, with

_ the part number or words OBEN TOP facing _ upwards. Make sure that the location dowels are in position. 37 Carefully lower the head onto the block. Do not use any jointing compound on the cylinder head joint. 38 Insert the cylinder head bolts, together with their washers, and initially hand-tighten _ them using a splined socket. 39 Using the sequence shown (see _ illustration) tighten all the bolts to the Stage 1 torque given in the Specifications.

40

Angle-tighten

the

bolts

in the

same

_ sequence to the Stage 2 angle given in the _ Specifications. 41 Refit the timing belt with reference to Section 4. 42 Refit the upper timing belt cover. 43 Reconnect the oxygen sensor wiring at the bulkhead. 44 Refit the inlet manifold together with a new gasket and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Tighten the lower rubber bush mountings. 45 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Section 6. 46 Refit the rear coolant pipe, then reconnect the heater matrix hoses and tighten the clips. 47 Refit the inlet manifold support bracket. 48 Reconnect the air conditioning vacuum hoses and the brake servo unit vacuum hose. 49 Refit and adjust the accelerator cable. 50 Reconnect the fuel feed and return hoses. 51 Reconnect the wiring for the alternator warning light, throttle position switch, automatic camshaft adjustment valve, and temperature sender(s). 52 Refit the ignition coil and reconnect the HT leads. 53 Reconnect the wiring to the Hall sender unit, injectors, inlet air temperature

Bef 11.39

11.75

Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence (ADR engine)

56 Reconnect the top hose to the coolant pipe and tighten the clip. 57 Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1A. 58 Refit the exhaust manifold together with a new gasket and tighten the nuts and bolts. 59 Refit the exhaust downpipe to the manifold together with a new gasket and tighten the nuts. 60 Refit the undershield beneath the engine compartment and reconnect the battery negative lead. Where applicable, refit the engine top cover.

Except ADR engine Removal 61 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Chapter 5A). 62 Remove the undershield from under the engine compartment. If necessary, temporarily jack up the front of the car. Where applicable, remove the engine top cover. 63 Unscrew the nuts and disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the exhaust manifold. Support the downpipe on an axle stand and recover the gasket. 64 Unscrew the nuts and bolts and remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head. Recover the gasket. 65 Drain the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1A. Also drain the coolant from the engine by disconnecting the small hose from the thermostat housing. 66 Remove the inlet manifold as described in Chapter 4.

a RNC

Removing the cylinder head bolts (non ADR engine)

67 Disconnect the HT leads and remove the spark plugs as described in Chapter 1A. 68 Refer to Section 4 and remove the timing belt from the camshaft sprocket. Note that the

crankshaft pulley and lower timing cover need not be removed.

69 If the cylinder head is to be dismantled when removed, the camshaft and tappets can be removed at this stage with reference to Chapter 2E if required. 70 Remove the alternator as described in Chapter 5A. 71 Unbolt the earth cable from the cylinder head. 72

Disconnect

the heater

hose,

top hose,

and bypass hose from the cylinder head. 73 Disconnect the wiring from

the

temperature senders.

74 Unbolt and remove the timing belt rear cover. 75 Using a splined socket, unscrew the cylinder head bolts a turn at a time, in reverse order to the tightening sequence (see illustration 11.82) and remove them together with their washers (see illustration). 76

With all the bolts removed, lift the cylinder

head from the block (see illustration). If it is stuck, tap it free with a wooden mallet. Do not insert a lever into the gasket joint. 77 Remove the cylinder head gasket from the block (see illustration).

Refitting 78 Thoroughly clean the contact faces of the cylinder head and block. Also clean any oil or coolant from the bolt holes in the block - if this

sender

and inlet manifold variable choke valve. Secure the engine wiring harness with cable ties as necessary. 54 Refit the air inlet duct and tighten the

clips. 55 Reconnect the expansion tank hose to the coolant pipe and tighten the clip.

11.76

Lifting the cylinder head from the block (non ADR engine)

11.77

Removing the cylinder head gasket

from the block (non ADR engine)

2Ae14

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

4

H.19942 11.82

11.79 OBEN TOP marking on the head

Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence (non ADR engine)

gasket (non ADR engine) precaution is not taken, not only will the tightening torque be incorrect but there is the possibility of damaging the block. The cylinder head bolts must be renewed whenever removed. 79 Locate a new gasket on the block, with the part number or words OBEN TOP facing upwards (see illustration). Make sure that the location dowels are in position. 80 Carefully lower the head onto the block. Do not use any jointing compound on the cylinder head joint. 81 Insert the cylinder head bolts, together with their washers, and initially hand-tighten them using a splined socket. 82 Using the sequence shown (see illustration) tighten all the bolts to the Stage 1 torque given in the Specifications. 83 Tighten the bolts in the same sequence to the Stage 2 torque given in the Specifications. 84 Angle-tighten the bolts in the same sequence to the State 3 angle given in the Specifications (see illustration). One half turn (180°) without stopping or two quarter turns (90°) are permissible. 85 Refit the timing belt rear cover. Insert and tighten the bolts. 86 Reconnect the wiring to the temperature senders. 87

Reconnect the heater hose, top hose and

bypass hose. 88 Refit the earth cable. Insert and tighten the bolt. 89 Refit the alternator with reference to Chapter 5A.

90

If removed, refit the camshaft and tappets

with reference to Chapter 2E. 91 Refit the timing belt with reference to Section 4. 92 Reconnect the spark plugs and HT leads with reference to Chapter 1A. 93 Refit the exhaust manifold together with a new gasket and tighten the nuts and bolts. 94 Refit the exhaust downpipe to the exhaust manifold together with a new gasket and tighten the nuts. 95 Refill the cooling system with reference to Chapter 1A. 96 Refit the undershield beneath the engine compartment, then reconnect the battery negative lead. Where engine top cover.

applicable,

refit the

12 Hydraulic tappets operational check

can

upwards. 5 Using a non-metallic tool, press the tappet downwards then use a feeler blade to check the free travel. If this is more than 0.2 mm

(ADR engine) or 0.1 mm (except ADR engine) before the valve starts to open, the tappet should be renewed. 6 Hydraulic tappet removal and refitting is described as part of the cylinder head overhaul sequence - see Chapter 2E for details. SRN=

Wii

Warning: After fitting hydraulic tappets, wait a minimum of 30 minutes (or preferably, leave overnight) before starting the engine, to allow the tappets time to settle, otherwise the valve heads will strike the pistons. 1 The hydraulic tappets are self-adjusting, and require no attention whilst in service. 2 If the hydraulic tappets become excessively

noisy, their operation described below.

3 Run the engine until it reaches its normal operating temperature. Switch off the engine, then refer to Section 7 and remove the camshaft cover. 4 Rotate the camshaft by turning the crankshaft with a socket and wrench, until the first cam lobe over No 1 cylinder is pointing

be checked

as

13 Flywheel/driveplate removal, inspection and refitting

Removal 1 On manual gearbox models, remove the gearbox (see Chapter 7A) and clutch (see Chapter 6). 2 On automatic transmission models, remove the automatic transmission as described in Chapter 7B. 3 The flywheel/driveplate bolts are offset to ensure correct fitment. Unscrew, the bolts while holding the flywheel/driveplate stationary. Temporarily insert a bolt in the cylinder block, and use a screwdriver to hold the flywheel/driveplate, or make up a holding tool as shown (see illustration). 4 Lift the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. If removing a driveplate, note the location of the shim and spacer.

Inspection

A

11.84 Angle-tightening the cylinder head bolts (non ADR engine)

i

13.3 Tool for holding the flywheel/driveplate stationary

5 Check the flywheel/driveplate for wear and damage. Examine the starter ring gear for excessive wear to the teeth. If the driveplate or its ring gear are damaged, the complete driveplate must be renewed. The flywheel ring gear, however, may be renewed separately from the flywheel, but the work should be

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

2Ae15

H23015

13.6 Ignition timing mark dimension ‘a’ Dimension ‘a’ = 14.6 mm from centre of TDC mark

entrusted to an Audi/VAG dealer. If the clutch friction face is discoloured or scored excessively, it may be possible to regrind it, but this work should also be entrusted to an Audi/VAG dealer. 6 Note that if the flywheel/driveplate is renewed, the new part will only have a TDC mark on it. It will be necessary to put an ignition timing mark on it in accordance with the information shown (see illustration). 7 With the flywheel removed, check the spigot needle bearing in the end of the crankshaft for wear by turning it with a finger. If there is any evidence of excessive wear or if the bearing has been running dry, it must be renewed. To do this, use a bearing removal puller which engages the rear end of the bearing. Drive the new bearing into position until its outer end is 1.5 mm below the end of the crankshaft.

13.8b

13.8a Apply locking fluid to the flywheel/driveplate bolts dimension (see illustrations). The raised pip on the outer shim must face the torque converter.

14 Engine mountings inspection and renewal

i HH

Inspection 1 If improved access is required, raise the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands and remove the undershield. 2 Check the mounting rubbers to see if they are cracked, hardened

or separated from the

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but coat the threads of the (new) bolts with locking fluid before inserting them and tightening them to the specified torque. If a replacement driveplate is to be fitted, its position must be checked and adjusted if necessary. The distance from the rear face of the block to the

metal at any point; renew the mounting if any such damage or deterioration is evident. 3 Check that all the mounting’s fasteners are securely tightened; use a torque wrench to check if possible. 4 Using a large screwdriver or a crowbar, check for wear in the mounting by carefully levering against it to check for free play. Where this is not possible, enlist the aid of an assistant to move the engine/transmission back and forth, or from side to side, while you watch the mounting. While some free play is to be expected even from new components, excessive wear should be obvious. If

torque converter mounting face on the driveplate must be 27 mm + 1 mm. If necessary, remove the driveplate, and fit a spacer behind it to achieve the correct

excessive free play is found, check first that the fasteners are correctly secured, then renew any worn components as described below.

Refitting

Driveplate position dimension ‘a’ Dimension ‘a’ = 27mm

+1mm

Renewal Front torque arm 5 For improved access, apply the handbrake then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). 6 Unscrew the bolts and remove the torque arm and rubber mounting from the front of the cylinder block. 7 Unbolt the bracket from the front valance. 8 Fit the new torque arm and bracket using a reversal of the removal procedure.

Right- or left-hand engine mounting 9 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). 10 Support the weight of the engine with a hoist. 11 Unscrew the mounting nuts, then raise the engine and withdraw the mounting from the engine bracket and subframe (see illustration). 12 Fit the new mounting using a reversal of the removal procedure.

15 Sump - removal and refitting

Ax~

Removal 1 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). 2 Unbolt and remove the undershield from under the engine. 3 Position

.

13.8c Tightening the flywheel/driveplate bolts

14.11

Engine mounting (shown with engine removed)

a container

beneath

the

sump,

then unscrew the drain plug and drain the engine oil. Clean, refit, and tighten the plug after all the oil has drained. Remove the dipstick from the engine. 4 Support the weight of the engine with a hoist. 5 Unbolt and remove the transmission front cover. 6 Unscrew the engine mounting lower nuts. 7 Support the front suspension crossmember on a trolley jack, then unscrew the

2A®16

4-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures

15.8 View of the sump (ADR engine)

crossmember front mounting bolts and lower the crossmember a little. 8 Unscrew and remove the sump bolts (see illustration). 9 Remove the sump and gasket. If it is stuck, tap it gently with a mallet to free it.

Refitting 10 Clean the contact faces of the sump and block. 11 Locate a new gasket on the sump, then offer it up to the block and fit the bolts. Do not use any jointing compound. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque in diagonal sequence. 12 Raise the front suspension crossmember and tighten the mounting bolts. Lower the engine onto the crossmember and remove the hoist.

16.2a

16.2b

Removing the oil pump suction Pipe ...

13 Refit the engine mounting lower nuts and tighten to the specified torque. 14 Refit the transmission front cover and tighten the bolts. 15 Refit the engine dipstick. 16 Refit the undershield and lower the car to the ground. 17 Fill the engine with the correct quantity of oil as described in Chapter 1A.

16 Oil pump and pickup -

SS

removal, inspection and refitting

w NS

...and O-ring seal

2 Using an Allen key, unscrew

the bolts and

remove the suction pipe from the oil pump. Remove the O-ring seal (see illustrations). 3 Unscrew and remove the large oil pump mounting bolts, then withdraw the pump from the block (see illustrations). 4 Unscrew the two bolts, and lift off the cover. Note that the cover incorporates the pressure relief valve.

Inspection 5 Clean the components, and check them for

wear and damage. 6 Using a feeler blade as shown,

check the

backlash between the gears, and compare with that given in the Specifications. Similarly

Removal

check

1 Remove the sump as described in Section 15.

the

endfloat

of the

gears,

using

a

straight edge across the end face of the pump. If outside the specified limits, the pump should be renewed, otherwise refit the cover and tighten the bolts (see illustrations).

Refitting

16.3a

Unscrew the large oil pump mounting bolts ..

16.6a

Checking the oil pump gear backlash ...

7 Prime the pump with oil by immersing it in oil and turning the driveshaft. 8 Clean the contact faces, then fit the oil pump to the block, insert the mounting bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque (see illustration). 9 Locate a new O-ring seal on the end of the suction tube. Fit the tube to the oil pump, insert the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. 10 Refit the sump with reference to Section 15.

16.6b

...and gear endfloat

16.8 Tightening the oil pump cover bolts

2Be1

Chapter 2 Part B o-cylinder petrol engine in-car repair procedures Contents Auxiliary drivebelt - removal and refitting ...................-. Camshaft cover - removal and refitting .................20000Camisnatt oillseallairenewalans ton cone cece os ans oem eee nese Grankshattioil’sealS=renewal’mare... 2. wa eres ws we eae a wanes SVUTICOl COMPIESSIONNOSE hos sii nie cat Os ce ay eeu ws a waenals

6 7 8 9 3

Cylinder head - dismantling and overhaul........... See Chapter 2E Cylinder head - removal and refitting .................ee eee 10 Engine mountings - inspection and renewal ................0-. 13 Engine oil and filter - renewal ................040- See Chapter 1A ENGINexOll IVE] = CNOCK) oo eeececs oo ouasciiessie) ores eis soFsSee Weekly checks

Engine valve timing marks - general information and usage ...... Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting ..........

John Haynes O.B.E.,