Fine Homebuilding. 25 Yrs of Great Building Tips. 215 Terrific Ideas

Citation preview

25 years of great

CHAPTERS Drywall/ 32 r Repair r lnstallation

Painting| 40 r Strategy r Tidy Application r Prep& Cleanup

)

::j-'--\

Framing/ 48

DRYWALL

2t L,

Z

r Rules r Roofs r Walls

REPAIR

a4 H.MEMADE cLAMPs I I MrrER

r Floors

El

FinishCarpentry / 60 r Rules r Cutting & Coping '. r InstallingTrim

.orrrf,i.tiluoll 74

www.fi nehomebuilding .com

Cabinets/ 7A r Construction r lnstallation r EfficiencyGuidelines

El

Mechanical Systems / 80

DEPARTMENTS

r Electrical r plumbing

6

Editor'sNote

B

Benches & Sawhorses

Exteriors/ 86

lmproved sawhorse, Multipurposecart, Knockdown saw stand

r Roofing r Siding

Doors & Windows

r Trim

Routinghinge mortises, Solo window installation

28 Stairs| 96 Stringers r Treads& Risers r Railings

El

OutdoorSpaces / 102 . becks r Porches r Patios

EnergyEfficiency Cutting rigid insulation, lnsulatedheaders

1 0 8 TilingTechniques Accuratediagonaltile cuts, Removinga broken tile, Applying latex gro.ut

al -{ ^- I

al lf ( r -

DRYWALL-rAPE D|SPENSER

116

Math & Measuring Arch layout,Measuring odd shapes

The ThuntonPress Inspiration for hands-on livingo

editor'snote Editor Kevin lreton ExecutiveArt Director Robert Goodfellow Special-lssues Editor CharlesMiller

Welcometo the tailgate party

ExecutiveEditor.fim Snyder Senior Editor CharlesBickford Associate Editors DanielS. Morrison, Brian Pontolilo

AN OLD-TIMER ONCE TOLD ME that the key to working efficiently on any building project is to avoid stupid mistakes. I think he had the answer to half the equation. Knowing that you should measure a board twice before cutting it once and that you should remove masking tape before the sun bakes it onto the window is important. But it's the clever solutions to common construction

Assistant Editors Justin Fink, Christopher Ermides,John Ross SeniorCopy/ProductionEditor Chris Hoelck Copy/Production Editor Julie Risinit Deputy Art Directors Dan Thornton, Marne A. Mayer

problems that make up the other half of the equation. Builders are a resourceful, gregarious lot. They delight in coming up with ingenious ways to do things faster, with greater accuracy,and typically with tools and materials already on hand. Luckily, builders like to share their ideas, whether standing in the checkout line at the hardware store or sitting on a tailgate with a favorite beverage in hand at the end of the day.

Art Assistant Krysta 5. Doerfler AdministrativeAssistant Maureen Friedman Contributing Editors Scott McBride, Rick Arnold, Mike Guertin, Scott Gibson, Gary M. Katz Indexer Harriet Hodges

For the past 25 years, Fine Homebuilding has Publisher Tim Schreiner

encouraged readers to submit their gems of useful wisdom. The ideas are presented in our "Tips & Techniques" column, where builders offer up their job-site brainstorms, and they're scattered throughout articles and other departments. This special collection brings together some of the best advice we've received addressing both halves of the working-smarter equation. Here,

AdministrativeAssistant Christina Glennon Sr. Marketing Manager Carolyn Turoczi SingleCopy SalesManager Mark Stiekman AdvertisingSalesManager John Dyckman

you willfind professional-grade guidance on

CorporateAccountsManager Judy Caruso

how to avoid mistakes and how to work more efficiently, taken from a variety of feature articles on topics such as framing, drywall, and painting. You also will find a wide range of tips across the entire spectrum of tasks that make up this

SeniorNationalAccount Managers Joel Burger, James Spangenberg NationalAccount Managers. Charles Howe, Wendy Baxter, Michelle Erca

occupation and this passion that we call home building. ff you'd like to find out more about Fine Homebuilding, please turn to p.121 for more information, or check out our Web site

Ad SalesSupport Associate Sharon Zagata

at www.finehomebuilding.com. And if you've got a tip that you'd like to share, send it in. Join the party. -{harles

Miller, special-issues editor

Fine Homebuilding Books & Videos ExecutiveEditor, Home building Steve Culpepper Printed in the USA

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Photo:CharlesMiller

'

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NO.46 READER SERVICE GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

benches&sawhorses The ThuntonPress Inspiration

for hands-on

INDEPENDENT PUBLISHERSSINCE I975

The improvedsawhorse:lt has lips

TAUNTON, INC.

My work as a carpenter who specializesin repairing and replacing exterior trim means that I spend a lot of time fussing with long workpieces that have to be planed to fit. As shown in the drawing below, I made some simple modifications to my sawhorses to make the planing go a little easier. First, I cut the ends of the sawhorse crossbars to create little liplike ledges on their ends that are wide enough to support a piece of 1x stock on edge. Second, I bored f -in.-dia. holes in the sawhorse crossbars to accommodate the stationary jaw of a bar clamp.

Foundtrs, Paul and Jan Roman THE TAUNTON PRESS President & Editor In Chief

Timothy

Executiue Vice President & Publisher, Magazine Group

Jon Miller

MICHAELDAVIS NewOrleans

Chief of Operations

Thomas Luxeder

DIRECTORS

Hurnan ResourcesDirector Technohgy SeruicesDirector

Susan Edehnan Carol Marotti Fdward

Controlbr'Wayne Adaertising Director Marheting Director

2x4 sawhorse crossbars

Rahr

Publisher, Booh Group James Childs

Creatiue Director

-JOHN

Sue Roman

Execatiue Vice Presidznt & Chief Financial Offcer

To use, I simply rest the workpiece on the horse's lips, clamp the stock to the cross' bars, and plane away.

livingo

Fulfrllment Director

David

Kingpton Reynolds Gray

Diana Allwein PatriciaVilliamson

Holes in sawhorse crossbars provide purchase for bar clamps. THE TAUNTON

PRESS

Booksr Marhetizg; MelissaA. Possick,Audrey Locorotondo. Publicity: Nicole Radder,Janel Noblin. Editorial: Helen Albert, Kathryn Benoit, PeterChapman, SteveCulpepper, Robyn Doyon-Aitken, Julie Hamilton, PamelaHoenig, Carolyn Mandarano,JenniferPeters,Amy Reilly,Jennifer Russell,Erica Sanders-Foege, Kathleen\flilliams. lrr: Chris Thompson, Nancy Boudreau,Amy Griffin, Karhy Kelley, SandraMahlstedt,\7endi Mijal, Lynne Phillips, Carol Singer. Manufacnring Thomas Greco,Laura Burrone.

Lip supports workpiece.

BusinessOffice HollySmith, Gayle Hammond. Legal: Carolyn Kovdeski. Magazine Print Production: Phllip\an Kirk, Nicole Anastas,JenniferKaczmarryk.

A safer step stool

%-in. plywood sides and top, screwed and glued

I've been a remodeler and a handyman for more than 20 years

Distribution: Paul Seipold,\Talter Aponte, Frank Busino, David DeToto, LeanneFurlong, Deborah Greene,Linnea Ingram, Frank Melbourne, ReinaldoMoreno, Raymond Passaro, Alice Saxton,Nelson W'ade.

no% and in that time,I've really

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Finance: Kathy \florth, Brett Manning, David Pond.,tlccounting Patrick Lamontagne,Lydia Krikorian,

come to appreciate the simple

Judith O'Toole, ShannonMarrs, ElaineYamin, Carol Diehm, Dorothy Blasko,SusanBurke, l,orraine Parsons,Larry Rice,

perfection of my little step stool. Itt made entirely out of scraps rescued from the burn pile. The thing I like best about my little stool is its stability. Because

JamesTweedle,Priscilla'Sflakeman. Fulfillmenc Diane Goulart. Fulfllment Slaems:Jodi Klein, Kim Eads,Nancy Knorr, Dawn Viglione. C*rtomerSmtice: Ellen Grassi,Michelle Amoroso, Bonnie Beardsley,Deborah Ciccio, KatherineClarke,Alfred Dreher,Monica Duhancik, EileenMcNulry PatriciaParks,DeanaParker,PatriciaPineau,

1 4i n .

the sides are tapered, it's a lot harder to tip over rhan a stool with

Berty Stepney.Data Entry: MelissaDugan, Anne Champlin, MaryAnn Colbert, Maureen Pekar,Debra Sennefelder, Andrea Shorrock,Marylou Thompson, BarbaraVilliams, Brian . Wilcox.

straight sides.Its l4-in. height makes the stool narrow enough to passbetween stud walls framed on 16-in.centers,but still tall enough for rne to reach the top of a wall in a room with 8-ft. ceilings. _MIKENIEMEYER Lawrenceburg, Ind. FINE HOMEBUILDING

Human Resources:Linda Ballerini, Christine Lincoln, Dawn Ussery. Information Technolory Servi cex;zApplications Deuehpment: Heidi \Taldkirch, Frank Miller, Robert Nielsen,Linda Reddington, lawrence Sullivan,John Vaccino,Daniel 'Woodhouse. Deshtopand Netutorh Sapport: Kenneth Jones, Michael Colonari, PetreCotofana, Gabriel Dunn, Michael Lewis,JayLigouri.

Rubber shoes Drawings:CharlesMiller

Marketing: Dennis O'Brien, Patrick Cozens,Keri DeGross, CatherineHansen,Karen Lutjen, Michael Valanzola. Operations: JosephMorits, RobertaCalabrese,Sally Cunningham, Kevin DeGroate,John Gedney,Marc Imbimbo, JenniferLicursi, SusanNerich, JeannettePascal.T Room: Anne Michael louchen, GeraldineBenno,Anna Pendergast, Scheurer,Norma-JeanThylor.Maintenanca.'Lincoln Peters. Promotion: Michele Mayernik, SandraMoryka, Nicole Pallatto,\Tilliam Sims.PromotionPrint Productioz;Diane Flanagan,John Cavallaro,SandraHannan. Thunton Creative and Edi toial:

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V. Kathy Martin, SarahOpdahl, Alison \filkes, Pamela Vinn. Editorial JeffersonKolle, Debra Silber,DeanaTierney. Photography:Scott Phillips. Vidzo: Gary Junken. Prepress: Deborah Cooper,Richard Booth, William Bivona, David Blasko,Richard Correale,\Tilliam Godfrey,Brian Leavitt, ChansamTham mavongsa.Adaertising Production: l-aviBergeron,Lisa DeFeo,Tlacy Goodpaster,StevenMolnar, PatriciaPetro,Kathryn Simonds,Martha Stammer. TAUNTON

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READER NO.36 SERVICE

NO. 1 READERSERVICE GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

benches&sawhorses

in.

CONTINUED ,81h

u\zF'/----: -

Multipurpose cart To move heavy or awkward items around a iob site, I use this small cart consisting of a l2-in. by l8-in. plywood base,2x2

15in. --->l

-

- - - - - ' > - - ' ; ' ?

. . - . - -

curbs, and casterwheels.

II 1O1/zin.

As shown in the drawing below,I use the sort of casterswith stems that fit into plastic sleeves.By drilling right through the curb, these sleevescan be slipped in from the top or bottom.

II I

t_

Foam or carpet padding is great when I have ro move items like vanities. The cart also makes a dandy mechanics-style crawler for accessingthe underside of sinks or lavatories,

Padded side

and it'll scoot around for low-level work on outlets

Removable casters fit in plastic sleeyes.

With the recessedside of the cart up, I drag my compressor around,lug paint pails, and move buckets of drywall mud. - P E T E RB L A C K M O R E SaltSpringlsland,B.C.,

.i;r'

:h.JJS 2x12 base 2-in'-dia'casters-'v Notches for stool legs

T[iple-duty stool

or baseboards.

'6ru"

1t:l;'

Canada

My little work stool staysput, or scootsaround on wheels, depending on what I need it for. As illustrated in the drawing above, the stool is accompanied by a dolly with 2-in.-dia. swiveltype casters. Most of the time.I use the srool without its dolly. Its l\Vz-in.

of the construction iobs inside the house. It's also useful for small children to reach the sink. I put the stool on its dolly when I want to scoot around close to the floor for nailing or drywall finishing. It's even good for waxing the car. - J O S E P HS . K O W A L E W S K I

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The SoloSiderwill let you adjust a pieceof siding up or down in real time using 1/16 increments.It can be set for different overlapsusing the quick releaseknob. The plasticparts are glass filled nylon 6/6. This is an engineeringgrade that is almost indestructiblein this application.The main body is a heat treated and temperedspring steel.Nickel plated.

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benches&sawhorses

CONTINUED

Double-duty miter-saw bench I upgraded my miter saw recently, and that got me looking at commercially available stands. Then I wondered whether I already had com-

affixed a power strip to one of the sawhorses. I made a pair of supports to hold up the ends

ponents that could be recon-

of long pieces of stock. The supports are mirror

figured into an acceptable saw

images of each other,

stand. I did a little improvising,

and like the chopsaw,

and now I've got what I think is a more adaptable saw stand

the supports are

the edges that contact the lumber with alumi-

The basic stand consistsof an extendable aluminum scaffold

num angle stock reduces

plank held up by a pair of folding sawhorses.I used Werner's PA 208 plank (Werner Ladder Co.; 888-523-3370). It weighs

rig easier to use.

HiltrlllJll

Aluminum angle 2 in.by 4 in.

by 12i n.

friction and makes the

Heightto match miter-sawbase

a movable stop that can be raised above the support when I need to make multiple cuts (top detail), even up to 11 ft.

the stop to the position where its vertical edge can be aligned with the saw's fence (bottom detail).

-LARRYJAcoBSoN

long. For one-off pieces,I lower

l,l : \:Il

Seattle

uillllilr

llJtll+.tlr

A 45'bevel collects wood chips.

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Verticaledge of support/stop in fence-alignment mode

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Support/stop in multiplecutoff mode

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anchored to the plank with C-clamps. Capping

me anything extra.

extends from 8 ft. to 13 ft., but any similar plank will work.I

Left-side support/sto clampedto plank \.__4

than any commercial unit I reviewed_and it didn,r cosr

401b.,is 14 in. wide, and

Right-side support/stop

Extendable aluminum scaffold plank

Yr'

-\/

benches&sawhorses

CONTINUED

Hurricane ties, both sides

Roof framerrs sawhorse No matter how careful you are, the metal fasteners in sawhorseseventually encounter a spinning sawblade.

sawhorse from a local road crew. The horses can be taken apart for transport and quickly reassembled with a screw gun. The knockdown connec-

require no fasteners.Inter-

tions all are made by way of metal framing

locking plywood piecesstore flat in the back of a truck,

E q u a lt o height of slot in Part A

and the crossbar cutout can be adjusted to accommodate any piece of lumber

connectors.

At the top of the 2x legs,a pair of hurricanetiesacceptsthe

crossbar.Below the crossbar,a rail screwed to joist hangers on the leg brace stiffens the horse. board that gives me the profile of the standard sawhorse.

found that with a load of 2xl0 rafters, I need at least

up a new set from wood scraps $rched bottoms -for stabilityon unevenground

whenever I need a worktable.

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TurnOrdinoryBafhroornProjeclshrfreordinery lvifh "yormlyYoursHome CornforfSolufions!

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With the pattern,I can whip

a2x6 crosspieceto support a

WarmlyYours, Inc.'2

C)

I made a pattern out of hard-

adequate to the task. I've

Sunset, Maine

tt

I stole the idea for this

The inevitable result is aggravation and lost money on a new blade. The drawing Cut slots to shows the kind of sawhorses plywood thickness. I use when I cut roofs. The Slot for --. design is simple, and the crossbar material is scrap plywood. \ Best of all. thesehorses

dozen or more rafters. _ W I L L I A MR A Y N ES

'tt-.

Hurricane-tie sawhorse

E

benches&sawhorses

CONTINUED

'l'ernporary

sat!' stand

The drawing below shows how I improvise a stand for a portable tablesaw from an appliance carton. I begin by cutting the

Knockclown sil\v stand My work as a remodeler

box down to about 24 in. with a utility knife. Then I reinforce the box's upper edgeswith 1x2sscrewed and glued to both inside and outside surfaces.My saw is affixed to a plywood baseover a

requiresthat I carry a wide variety of tools and materials,so

hole that allows dust to evacuate.I place the saw and its baseatop the reinforced box and run screws through the plywood into the

um. That's why I came up with

1x2sto hold everything together. The plyrvood extends well beyond the back of the box, where it is held up by a 2x8 leg.

The stand is constructed of 2x4 legs that have been con-

Don't let the box get too full of sawdust; the saw may overheat or -MARK

even causea trre.

WHITE KodiakA , laska

Benchtoptablesaw" Plywood base;

Use 1x2s inside and out to reinf orce liP.

nected in pairs by way of 2x4 crossbars.Scre'*,sand glue hold them together. The crossbarsare notched in the rniddle where they engage one another. I mounted my portable

middle to evacuatesawdust. The saw is held fast to the stand A 2x8 leg extends above base to become outfeed block.

carton *--//

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of the basecorrespondsto the dowels in the front legs of the saw stand. - R O B E R T C O NR A D

during use by dowels. A pair of

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Whole

e

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A p p l i a n c eT

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READER SERVICENO. 26

doors&windows Putting a new window in an old brownstone In Brooklyn, where turn-of-the-century brownstones and bricks are the norm, window replacement often calls for some ingenuity. I have used both Bonneville and Andersen brick-to-brick replacement windows. These units are custom-made to be % in. narrower than the brick opening, with a brick molding already attached. In theory, they drop into the opening and are strapped to the interior-wall framing with vendor-supplied galvanized straps. Caulk the brick moldings to the bricks, and you're done. But with solid-brick walls, what do you strap the new window to? When old windows are removed, the area once occupied by the sash weights is now a large void. Rather than make a mountain of

Strapsmade of 2-in.-widestrips of 3/q-in. plywood attachedwith 172-in.screws

unstable framing in the void, I improve on the strap idea. As shown in the drawing, I screw 2-in.-wide strips of 3A-in.plywood to the sides, bottom, and top of the window. Now I can attach the plywood strips to the stud wall, shimming as necessary to square to the window.

Once they are affixed to framing, cut strapsflush with stud

The strips then are cut flush with the studs. The strips also serve as support for jamb extensions or drywall. Before installing the drywall, I stuff the sash-weight voids with insulation. _MATT HAUSMANN Brooklyn, N.Y.

r\

\ Stud wall

New window

Brickmolding

:'-t::\\

N .\.\.

,\rri.

*s

shim as -/ necessary.

20

FINE HOMEBUILDING

S,ra*"ttj

Vg

Locating a passageset in a door isn't too tough. Heights are standard, and many manufacturers provide a template with the hardware. Locating the latch hole in the jamb can be more difficult. Here's the most accurate way I've found to do it. Close the door, and hold it tight to the stop. Then push a 6d nail through the %-in. pilot hole in the door edge until it pierces the door jamb; a pry bar provides leverage if necessary.Now drill holes for the latch and the strike using arsAr-in. spade bit. (A %-in. bit is

-\,) Spaceformerly occupie'd by sashweights

Use a nail to mark the center of the strike-plate hole

too small for most latch mechanisms, and the trole left by a l-in. bit won't be. covered completely by the latch plate.) -TOM O'BRIEN New Milford,Conn.

plywoodstrap

Drawings,except where noted: CharlesMiller. Photo this page: CharlesBickford.

doors&windows CONTINUED

Screw hinge leaf to door stile, and cut

around its perimeter with a utility knife.

Routing hinge mortises I had a fair number of doorsthat neededhanging, and I wanted to take advantageof my router and my 3/t-in.-dia.straightbit to make quick work of the hinge mortises.I had tried freehandingthe mortises with mixed results.So I decidedto make the hingemortising templateshown in the drawings below. I startedwith a pieceof Vz-in.plywood, to which I attachedthe leaf of a radiusedbutt hinge aligned to the edgeof the plywood asit will be placedon the door or jamb (drawing l). Using the hinge as a guide for the router's base,I routed a shallow groovein the plywood. The insideedgeof this shallow groovebecamethe cutline that I folRouter base

6n t d-rT

Chiseling hinge mortises I typically use a router and a template to cut mortises or to enlarge existing mortises for new door hinges. But for small jobs where it doesn't make senseto cart

f

:v

along a lot of gear, I use a utility knife and a chisel

_..-.1

for the same purpose. First, I screw the hinge to the

(

door stile in the desired position. Then I score around the edges of the hinge with the knife as shown in the

%-in. plywood Attach hinge leaf to plywood.

drawing above. With the hinge removed, I chisel the mortise to the thickness of the hinge. Now I can reattach the hinge using the same screw holes. - D A N I E L E . H I L Ll l l G r i s w o l dC,o n n .

Solo window installation I had to install windows in a new house by myself. First, I cut a couple of 2x4s about 8 in. longer than the widest

Router base follows template's curue as it cuts hinge mortise.

window. Then I measured the distance that the windows projected from the house and cut lowed with my jigsaw as I made a circular cut in the template (drawing 2). Next,I cut the template along the dotted lines (as shown in the drawing) to make it more convenient to maneuver. To cut a hinge mortise,I screwed the template to a

this distance plus %in.l

Crossbarwith blocks holds wind ow during i nstallation.

screwed one block to the end of each2x4. Working from outside,I installed a vinyl window and placed the 2x4s over it, screwing them to the wall on both

iamb and followed the curved edge of the plywood with the router's base (drawing 3). I used the same 3/q-in.straight bit, set at a depth equal to the thick-

sides. Now I was free to go inside and level the bottorir of

nessof a hinge leaf, to make the cuts. By the way,I placed the screws that hold the template to the jamb

from the 2x4s. When the window was centered and

so that their holes will be covered by the doorstop - R A y F R E U DC h e r r y H i l N (drawing 4). l, .J.

22

four blocks equal to

FINE HOMEBUILDING

the window and center it in its opening with shims. The extra Ycin.letme move the window without interference level,I went back out and nailed it in place, beginning with the bottom flange. Then I pulled out the crossbars and moved on.

-SCOTT

B R U C E G r a n d B l a n c ,M i c h .

doors&windows CONTINUED

Hanging heavy doors When I haveto musclea solid-coredoor into or out of its hinges,I let a drywall lift (a tool designedfor placingdrywall on walls)do the heavylifting. Unlike a flat bar,a drywall lift featuresan integral fulcrum (soI don't haveto setit on top of a2x4 to get leverage)and a stirrup that permits hands-freeoperation.As shown in the drawing, when I'm readyto hang the door,I slip a toe through the stirrup, usemy foot to center the lift under the door, and effordesslyraisethe door into position. You can find thesetools at the big drywall-supplyoutletsthat caterto the pros.Expectto spendfrom $15to $20 for one. By the way,the sharpmetal edgesof the lift can scratchwood surfaces,so I usually coverthem with a layer of duct tape.

A stronger ioint where the casing meets the stool Common practice is to nail up through the stool into side casings. But biscuits hold better than end-grain nails and

g Y o

c,

-o

_TOM O'BRIEN

won't come out through the exposed sur-

o

- J O S E P H B E A L Sl l l M a r s h f i e lHd i l l sM , ass.

like a Ela your Bas Swim or exerciseagainsta smoothcurrentadjustable to any speedor ability. Ideal for swimming,water aerobics,rehabilitationand fun. No traveling, no crowded pools, no heavy chlorine. The 8'x 15' EndlessPool@is simple

to maintain,economicalto run, and easyto install insideor out. Modular constructionmeansmany sizesand optionsare available. efreaOy own a pool?Ask about.n.

(to

rnsu[arcb wa[[pane[s STLANF

READER SERVICE NO.54 FINE HOMEBUILDING

O) o .,!

New Milford,Conn.

face of the side casing.

ii

from real insulationis the key to a comfortableand basement.OvrX InsulatedSub-FlooringTile and Wall Panels 30 years of proventechnology.The engineeredwood panels, in combinationwith STYROFOAMinsulation, can help protectyour investmentagainstwater and mildew.OvrX will also *"!. r"

5"JlHt""#i ffi #ffiffitffi:i'lriL"T"1**"trT, ft*n READERSERVICE NO.62

doors&windows

CONTINUED

TWo ways to fix a door that won't latch If the door contacts the latch-side stop at the top but not at the bottom (or the other way around) and is difficult to latch, the door is warped, or the jamb is twisted. -SCOTTMcBRIDE

'tl*l ;'i

f'Ti'iil

;l' tl '.1',

'irf{ i

Fix 1: Moving the hinge can cornpensate for warping or twisting. A door can be coaxed into closing smoothly by shifting either the top or bottom hinge outward at the jamb.

Sperryville,Va. Fix 2: lf moving the hinge doesn't fixthe problem entirely, it may be necessary to move the doorstop so that it contacts the entire latch side of the door.

Thimming foam flush to studs I use foam insulation from an aerosoi can when insulating around rough window and door openings. The next day,I trim all the excessfoam away from the wall and the window frame with a mastic trowel (drawing above). Its serrated edges saw through the foam,leaving the foam flush with the wall. - K E I T H M E T I E RH i g h l a n d P a r k l,l l .

NO.8 READER SERVICE FINE HOMEBUILDING

WARPED DOOR

-

E

6

o 'c ! o o o I

o o) G

.9

';

TWISTED JAMB

o

o

NO.12 SERVICE READER

energyefficiency Wall-sheathinginsulationstops When I switched to blown-in cellulose insulation in the attics of new homes, I saw the trouble installers had stapling cardboard insulation stops between the rafters or trusses above the exteriorwall plates to keep insulation from falling into the soffit. I came up with the idea of extending the exterior-wall sheathing above the top plate to become an integral insulation stop. Instead of trimming 1 ft. off the last row of sheathing to end it flush with the top plate, I let it run above the plate. I calculated the height between the bottom and top truss chords at the point above the outside face of the exterior wall. Then I deducted 1!zin. to leave a ventilation slot between the top of the wall sheathing and the underside of the roof sheathing. and cut off the rest. After nailing on the wall sheathing, I marked the roof-truss layout along the top edge of the sheathing and squared down the lines to the top-plate level, Before lifting the walls, I cut 132-in. slots for each truss to drop into. The slots quickly positioned each truss and allowed me to float the walls beneath until they could be tweaked straight; then I could nail down the trusses. Expanding spray foam seals any gaps between the truss and the wall sheathing so that no insulation slips by. The extra work saved me more than it cost me in time because the insulators didn't have to charge for crawling on their bellies to staple cardboard stops.

-MIKE

G U E R T I N E a s tG r e e n w i c h ,R . l .

A 2x6 provides sheathingsupport. 2x4 stud for drywall blocking

Entire corner cavity can be insulated.

1 x 3o r plywood strip

%-in. OSB sheathing

Fiberglass insulation 1/z-in.

drywall

FINE HOMEBUILDING

A hybrid corner that eliminates therrnal bridgrng Contributing editor Mike Guertin long hasbeenconcernedwith exterior corners,which can be notoriouscold cavities.Although thermal bridging is a concernalong the entire wall, framing alternativessuchasdouble-stud walls are not cost-effective. Corners, on the other hand, carry lessload than a typical stud and are structurally more flexible. Guertin is experimenting with a2x6 corner (photo left) that can be insulated completely. He uses

a2x6 on the exterior corner and nails

a2x4 and a lx3, or a strip of plywood, togetherto form the interior corner. Insulationthroughout the corner cavity eliminatesthermal bridging by . breakingcontactbetweenthe sheathing and the drywall. Guertin says that the corner still providesgood supportfor top platesand for nailing. (Although Guertin's building inspector approved the corner, check with your local inspector before trying it.)

Drawings:CharlesMiller.Photo: Scott Phillips.

energyefficiency CONTINUED

Cutting rigtd insulation Foam-insulationboardsare high in R-value, but they alsocan be a nuisanceto cut---{specially foam boardsthat are 2 in. thick. A utility knife won't cut deeplyenough.A kitchen knife works, but not very well becausethe triangular crosssectionof the bladebinds asthe cut deepens.Sawsleave rough edgesand spewstaticallycharged insulationparticlesthat cling to everything. A2-in. putty knife doesa grearjob of cutting foam insulation.The trick is to sharpen one side of

knife

the blade. Teamed

Sharpen with a straightedge, of a sharpened putty Foam insulati knife cuts through foam like butter, and its wide blade keeps the cut from

I've seen a lot of different ways to make built-up headers, from the

i\\ ,t\\

plywood between 2x material until it matches the depth of the wall

['\

Ll . t

N.,)

studs. Unfortunately, this causes two problems. First, the header often isn't the exact thickness of the wall, and when trim time rolls around, you have unhappy carpenters. Second, this kind of header has no insulative value. The drawing at right shows the header that I've been assembling to

is a header precisely the same dimension as the wall and a continuous void

READERSERVICE NO. 16 FINE HOMEBUILDING

Ir\\

traditional to the bizarre.The traditional method sandwiches Vz-in.

toms, and sides made either of 2x or, my favorite, laminated lumber. The result

Brewster,Mass.

8d nails

i\ \\

2x

solve both problems. Ir's essentially a box beam with plywood tops and bot-

wandering. _ C H R I SE L L I S

30

t\"[

Insulated headers for cold climates

the length of the headerfor insulation. My engineerhad no problemswith the structuralcapabilityof this design. The key is to provide adequatenailing through the plywood into the sides.For theseheaders,Iused8d nails spacedon the samecentersasthe perimeternails in our plywood wall sheathing. -BILL

READERSERVICE NO. 15

W E L C H J a c k s o n ,W y o .

Repair and how to racks or holesin drywall, wet o r s ta i n e d drywall, peelingjoint tape, popped nails or screws. Any of these problems means a drywall repair is inevitable. I know that some people grimace when faced with a dreaded chore like fixing a hole in drywall. The framing never seems to be in the right place for attaching a patch, and the quarter-inch layer of joint compound used to fix it looks nearly as obvious as the gaping black hole, except now drywall dust coats the furniture and the wall needs to be repainted. Unlike most people in my business,I love walking into a drywallrepair job. I savor the look on a customer's face when I say, "Sure, no problem. I can fix this in no fime." The more severe the damage, the more gratifying the look. Over the past two decades, I must

@^ing

5 commonproblems

fix them

ByMyRoN R.FERGUsoN

poppednailsand screws

Nailsand screwsrear their headswhen the dryrall panel is not fastened firmly againstthe framing, when the framing shrinksor twists, or when the wall or ceiling is struck or moved slightly during remodelingwork. Protruding fastenersare easyto fix. Whatever the causeof the telltale bulge, called a pop, the best remedy is to refasten the panel near the popped nail or screw. I usuallypress on the panel next to the pop and drive a drywall screw into the stud aboutlVzin. away (sometimeson both sides),drawing the panel toward the framing. I remove the popped fastener or drive it back into the framing. Covering the dimples is easy.lf the paper surfaceof the drynvallhas not been damaged, just fill the depres-

sion with three thin coats of joint compound, letting the compound dry between coats, followed by light sandingwith 1SO-gritsandpaper.lf the paper hastorn or if the core of the drywall is damaged, it's best to remove all loose material,fill the hole with joint compound,and then cover the area with fiberglass-mesh tape. (Youcan use paper tape, but I prefer self-adheringmesh tape.) This approach also works for any hole 2 in. wide or less.

have faced every possible type of drywall repair, and I have gotten good not only at patching holes but also at permanently concealing repairs and doing them as quickly and easily as possible.

Myron R. Ferguson(www.that drywallguy.com), author of Drywall: ProfessionalTechniques for Great Resu/ts(TheTaunton Pre ss2005) , ,liv esand w o rk s in Galway,N.Y.Photosby Zacha r yG a u l k i n .

32

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Refasten drywall to the underlyingframing near the popped nail or screw.

Fill dimples with three thin coats of compound, but use tape if the surtace is damaged.

2 rtllingandtapingcracks Cracks in drywall usually are caused by structural movement, such as the settling that happens in new homes. Most often, cracks occur on a seam, but sometimes they can be found in the middle of panels over doorways or windows. (ln modular homes, cracks in the middle of panels can occur as a result of transportation and placement on a foundation.) In new construction, I recommend waiting at least six months before repairing cracks to give the structure time to settle. Most cracks go completely through the panel, so just repairing the surface is not enough. The first step, as in all repairs, is to remove any loose material with a putty knife or utility knife. Next, cut a V-groove along the crack,opening it up aboutVzin. and going almost completely through the panel to the paper on the back. Fill the void with joint compound (for more about choosing joint compound, see p. 35), and cover it with mesh or paper tape. Then smooth the area with two or three coats of joint compound, blending it into the surrounding area and lightly sanding after the last coat. l'm careful to let the compound dry between coats.

'ffiffi,

Fillthe groove with joint compound,and apply sel{-adheringtape over the crack.

Applv threethin coats of compound, f eathering it into the rest of the wall.

'& Chip away loose material, and cut a V-shaped groove along the length of the crack.

frr #-,

3

t"tching an old electrical-box opening When an outlet or a switch is eliminated,the box may be removed or left in the wall. lf the box is left behind, make sure there are no live electricalwires in it. (Wired boxes should not be coveredwith drywalhthey should be closedwith a cover plate and remainaccessible.) Start by bevelingthe outside edges of the hole with a utility knife to a 45o chamferall around. Next, cut a drywall patch the samesize as the beveled opening, and bevel back the edges to fit the hole. I use a utility knife to adjust the fit of the patch until itt snug. The patch works best when it sinksslightly below the wall plane, leaving room for a thin layer of joint compound. Spreada generouslayer of compound onto the edges of the opening (or the patch),and press the patch in place.Then cover the seamswith mesh or paper tape, and two or three coats of compound.Sandafter the last coat.

Bevelthe edges of the wall opening, then cut a matching patch and bevel its edges.

Add joint compound to the opening or the patch, then press the patch into place.

Repairingwater-damaged .1.

ceilrngs A water leak usuallyruns along the top of drywall until it finds a seam or corner,often looseningthe tape and the joint compoundto create an exit. Damageto the drywall itself is generallynot extensive becausethe water doesn't sit for too long. Seams,however,usuallyneed some work. Once the leak has been repaired,remove loosetape and joint compound.lf the drywall is loose, it can be refastened to the framing with drywall screws. Cover the seamswith paper or meshtape; then apply two or three coats of joint compound. Drywall saturated with water may loosen and sag. lt will have to dry thoroughly before it can be reattached.However,sagging areaswill be difficult to reattach when dry becausethe drywall can take on a new shape.I sometimescan fix sags before the drywall dries by supporting it with a temporary support or with furring strips fastened to the framing. Removingany wet insulationso that it can dry is also a good idea.

After maskingsurroundingareas,remove any loosedrywalland joint tape.

CHOOSETHERIGHTJOINTCOMPOUND There are two broad categories of compound: drying and setting. Within each of those categories,different mixes are availablethat dry faster or slower, softer or harder, depending on your needs.

Drying-typecompound

Cover seams with mesh or paper tape, followed by three coats of compound.

Paint the damaged area with a stainblocking primer to prevent stains from bleeding through repairs.

Apply compoundto taped seams; cover with three coats.

Most drying-type compounds are premixed and ready to use right out of the bucket, but there are different types. Taping compound is used to embed the joint tape for the first coat and to fill for the second coat. lt is strong and doesn't shrink much.Topping compound is a lighter-weight compoundthat is used for the thin finishing coat. lt feathers out nicely,dries quickly,and sands smooth. All-purposecompound can be used for all stages. lt's availablein most lumber or hardware stores. For small repairs, if you don't want to buy more than one bucket, use a topping or an all-purposemix. Whatever varie$r you use, all drying-type compounds require an applicationtemperatureof at least 55"F (this condition applies to surface,compound, and air temperatures).The compound must dry thoroughly between coats; drying times are affected by temperature, humidity, and airflow. Setting'tyPe

compound

setting-typecompounds,whichharden quickly,aregreat for repairwork. While drying-type compounds cure as water evaporates,settingtype compounds harden by chemicalreaction. Setting times vary from 20 minutes to six hours, depending on the type used. Becausethese compounds hardenchemically,humidity and cooler temperatureshave little effect on setting time. Setting-type compounds are great for quick repairs, but they can be difficult to sand. I like to use a lightweight setting compound for the first two coats before finishing with an all-purpose(or a topping) dryingtype compound. The big drawback of setting-Upe compounds, however, is the inconvenience of mixing them yourself. On the plus side, you can mix only what you need and store the rest dry. For all but the smallest batches, I mix the compound in a S-gal. bucket, using a mixing paddle attachment with a Vz-in. electric drill. With setting-type compounds, additives can be mixed into the batch to acceleratedrying time even more.

GREATBUILDING TIPS2006

5

Repairinglargeholes When people have to repair large holesthat fall between wall studs or ceilingjoists, they often cut the drywall back to the framing to create a spot for fastening a patch. The problem is that the repairthen becomes much larger. I try to keep the repair as smallas possibleby not attachingthe patch to the

framingwhen the damage is between studs. For round or squareopenings(suchas those that are created when a light fixture is removed),the patch can be measuredand cut to fit precisely.For oddly shaped holes,I simply cut a patch slightlylargerthan the damaged area, hold it over the hole, and trace around it

with a pencil;then I cut out the damaged area to match the patch. To strengthenthe repair, I use furring strips to hold the patch. I cut the 1x2 stri ps about 6 i n. l onger than the hol e and sl i de each strip into the opening, fastening it on both ends with drywall screws. The patch is fastenedto

the furring strips with drywall screws,making it a firm part of the panel and flush with the surface.This method makesthe patch easyto concealand unlikely to crack or loosen. To tape the patch, first fill any large gaps with joint compound;then cover all the edges with mesh or paper tape. Becausepaper

Make a square or rectangular patch slightly larger than the damaged area.

Hold the patch over the damaged area and trace its outline onto the wall.

::.*\*.*=*ii"

--"t'n--

'---*

t' ,*15

J With a drywall saw, cut along the pencil line, then test the patch until it fits.

FINEHOMEBUILDING

Strengthen the repair by installing 1x2 furring str4rs inside the wall cavity. Strips should be 6 in. longer than the opening and fastened at both ends with drywall suews.

the wall framing. (For cuts

tape is stronger than mesh tape, I recommend it for

perpendicular to framing, I

larger, more difficult repairs

first mark an outline so that

and those that are attached

the patch area will have

directly to wall framing.

square corners.)

Cover the tape and patch

Because I cut along the

THREECOATSOF COMPOUNDMAKE REPAIRS DISAPPEAR The final step in all drywall repairs is to coat the patch with at least three (and sometimes four) layers of joint

with three thin layers of joint compound, making

inside of the framing, I have

compound-letting

each coat dry in

to attach 1x2 furring strips

between-followed

by a light sand-

sure to feather out the

or 2x4s to studs for fasten-

ing. No matter how carefully I patch a section of wall, the tape and joint

edges properly and not to

ing the patch. I make sure

build up the patched areas

that the strips are flush with

compound form a high spot or bump.

too much.

or slightly back from the

A poorly feathered patch can be as

Repairs that span wall

back edge of the drywall

noticeable as the damage it was

framing can be a real test

surface. lf possible, I use

meant to conceal.

because of the large surface

one piece of drywall for the repair. I leave about a 1/a-in.

area they involve. I start by removing the damaged area

gap to avoid damaging the

with a utility saw, cutting to

edges of the patch.

The key to avoiding an unsightly high spot is spreading and feathering the layers of joint compound over a large area without building up excess compound on any high areas. I like to begin each coat by applying a liberal amount of compound to the entire area and then feathering the outside edges first, working the compound smoothly toward the thin layer left in the center. The first coat should be as thin as possible while still hiding the tape. After the first coat of compound is dry, I use my trowel as a straightedge to see how far the high spot projects from the plane of the wall. The bigger and more noticeable the hump, the more area I will need to cover with joint compound to feather it into the rest of the wall. (For small patches, I

Attach the patch to the furring with drywall screws.

just rub my hand over the repair to feel how well the high spot is disap-

Spread a thin layer of compound over the seams, and apply mesh or paper tape.

pearing with each coat.) The second coat is a filler coau I fill in any voids, feathering the outside edges while keeping the compound very thin on any high spots. When the second coat is dry, I check the high spot again (by hand or by trowel) and apply more compound to widen the area further and to fill in voids or unfeathered edges. This third coat of j o i n t c o m p o u n d i n c r e a s e st h e d i a m e ter of the patched area even more.

;

..|,..... .:':'

!

Depending on the size of the repair, each coat will feather out 6 in. to 12 in. from the previous coat.

(; ItF,\T IJUII-I)I\(;

TII)S ]II{It,

lnstallation A self-mudding drywall-tapedispenser Peoplehavegiven me somepretty strangelooks when I carry my drywalltaping machineonto a job site.But the machine'slooks are deceiving.As shown in the drawing at right,I built a the unit out of scrap2x4s,a2x6rand 1-gal.plasticbucket.The bucket is affixed to the 2x6 crossbarwith four short screws. I made two slitsin the sideof the bucket where they engagethe bottom. The slitsare on oppositesides.The rear slit shouldbe iust largeenoughto allow drywall tapeto passthrough it. The front slit shouldbe slightly wider to allow both the tapeand a thin layer of ioint compound to passthrough it. A roll of papertapehangsfrom a2x4 upright toward the back of the rig. I run the tapethrough the slitsin the bucket,and then I fill the bucket with thinned joint compound.Now I'm readyto pull the tapeout to the desired length,lop it off with a razorknife, and apply it directly to the wall-no premudding necessary. Using this setup,two of us tapedan 1100-sq.-ft.housein five hours. -c H R l s MA T ISH AK A l ta.,C anada D el burne,

2x4 upright Rollof paper tape

Bucketof thinnedjoint compound

2x6

) -/

rF-

ie:,Drywallkicker I hang drywall oncein a while, but not often enoughto iustify investing in a real drywall "kicker," a lever made iust for lifting a piece ofdrywall. Instead,I modified my pry bar by attachinga 3-in. length of l-in.-dia. dowel with a bolt through the nail-pulling hole that is countersunkin the dowel. A little toe pressurelifts a drywall panel2 in. off the floor. _ANDREW KIRK Independence, Calif.

with a thin t***i rape emerses -y' cdatingof-jointcompound.-

Bladesalignedwith

Drywall edge trimmer Our crew uses "in-line" framing for walls to save lumber (weight from above bears directly on studs, and plates are joined with

1x scrap

steel splices).Becausethis style of framing allows a single top plate, our walls are a little lessthan 8 ft. tall. The downside to this technique is that we have to trim about an

;,r.$ 3-in.-longpiece of f -in.-dia.dowel

FINE HOMEBUILDING

inch off the ends of our drywall. This work is tedious with a utility knife, and the $25 edge trimmer I bought didn't work very well. I made my own trimmer by screwing together some piecesof lx scrap to make a cutting guide and attached a couple of "snap-off'utility-knife blades to its top edge.

Depthof score When I slidethis tool along the edgeof a pieceof drywall, the bladescut from both sides,making it quick and easyto remove uniform stripsfrom a sheetof drywall. -B R IANBUSHDaf t erM, ich. Drawings; CharlesMillcr. Photo: Mike Gucrtin and Randy O'Rourke'

%o-in.-thick poster-board strips

I REMoDELT NGTrP Patching holes in textured drywall

Ceilingjoists

Screws, 5 in. on center

Drywall dips over posterboard strips, creatinga recessfor tape and joint

Invisibledrywall butt joints During 40 years in the trades,I've had a number of highend drywall jobs that required dead-flat ceilings-no bulges allowed where the ends of the drywall sheetsabut one another. This method is our crew's solution to the problem. I've inspectedjobs that we did 25 yearsago using this

From time to time, my work includespatching holes in drywall. And if the holes are in textured walls, either orange-peel or knockdown texture, I have to set up my commercialsprayer to retexture the patch. Between setup and cleanup,that's a lot of work for a small.job. As shown in the drawings, l've found a better way. I begin a patch by applying meshtape over the hole (1).Then I cover the meshwith all-purposedrlnrall compound (don't use setting-typecompound)applied with a 4-in. taping knife. This processpatchesthe hole but also clogs the crevicesthat create the texture (21. Once the drywall compound has dried, I sand smooth the center of the patch. Then I feather the edges of the patch with an old toothbrush dipped in warm water and a dry cloth. I work my way around the patch (3), leaving a tapered surfacethat makes a gradual transition to the smoothly sanded center of the patch. To finish, I prepare a mixture of water and all-purposecompound thin enough to produce a splatter. Next, I suck some of the mix into a turkey baster and practice splattering on a piece of scrap until I get the effect I'm looking for. This step is important: Trial and error is the key to making this techniquework. When l've got the right consistency, l'm ready to texture the patch (4). -D A V ID A . R OJA SLasVegas

method, and you still can't seewhere the butt ioints occur. This trick starts with a sheet of plywood the same thickness as the drywall. First, trim an inch off the width of the sheet, then crosscut it into 10 equal strips. They will be 9%in. wide by 47 in.long. Next, staple strips of Vrc-in.thick poster board to the long edges of the plywood strip. Before raising a drywall panel for installation, screw one of the plywood strips to the end of the panel. The posterboard strip goes between the plywood and the drywall. As the drywall goes up, the butt ends are arranged to fall between the ceiling joists.When the adjacent drywall panel is screwed to the plywood strip, a shallow dip is created where the drywall bends over the poster board. This shallow dip createsa hollow for the tape. We tape our joints in the usual manner, beginning with the butt joints. Once that joint compound has dried, we tape the long edges. Incidentally, a 20-in.-long piece of IVz-in. aluminum angle is a handy tool for leveling the finish coats of joint compound over rhe butt ends. Using this technique, we never had a joint show up on a punch list at the completion of a job. - T l M H A N S O NI n d i a n a p o l i s

Gently scrub perimeter of patch with a moistened toothbrush.

Apply new splatter texture with a turkey baster,

G R E A TB U I L D I N G T I P S 2 0 0 6

Strategy 7 stepsto a professional p.int job

ost peoplethink that painting the interior of a houseis a iob that requires

BY FRANK SINICROPE

just a couple of tools, a high tolerance for boredom, and very little experience. Only after they've come to the end of their messy first job do they begin to wonder about that old guy in painter's whites they once saw working at someone else'shouse. How could he paint an e n t i r e r o o m i n a s e a m l e s s l yc h o r e o graphed sequence of brush and roller strokes before his second cup of coffee

1. PRorEcrrHE FLooR

and not spill even a drop of paintl I'm not that old guy yet, but I am a painting contractor. People always ask me how they can improve their painting techniques. If you consider the act of

ffi

re ffi rcF

painting on par with a trip to the dentist, the answers ahead will provide some Novocain to easethe pain of your next painting project.

F r ankS inic r o p e i s a p a i n ti n gc o n tra c tor in Hawthorne,N.J. Photosby CharlesBickford.

LongJasting, low-tack tape is best (3M Corp.; 888-364-3577; www.3m.com). FINE HOMEBUILDING

AND PREPTHE WALLS

re

@

I like to move all furnitureout or to the center of the room and cover it with plastic.To protect the floor, I roll out 4-mil plasticand tape it to the baseboard.Unlessl'm paintingthe ceiling,it's necessaryto cover only the first 3 ft. or 4 ft. of floor from the wall. Bluemaskingtape is besUit adheresto most surfacesand peelsoff cleanlyfor up to 14 days.The greentape can stay on even longer. Next, I make sure wallsand trim are clean,stain-free,and smooth.Nail holes,bumps,and crackscan be patched;if they're lessthan % in. deep, I use lightweightjoint compound, which dries quickly.(Fortips on drywallrepair,see p. 32).

Essential patching tools. Use a 6-in. taping knife and a 5-in-1 tool for wall prep.

2 . D o N ' T F o R G E TT H E P R T M E R

-J/

It's a good idea to start anyjob with a quality primer.Stains includingink, crayon,water,and smokesoot can be blocked by a stain-killingprimer suchas BIN (ZinsserCo. Inc.;www 732-469-81 00) or BenjaminMoore's FreshStart .zinsser.com; nmoore.com;800-344-0400). acrylicprimer (www.benjami After coveringthe stains,be sureto spot-primethe same areawith the finishpaint before applyingthe final coat. Otherwise,the spot will appear shinywhen the wall is viewed at an angl e.

Cover a multitude of sins. Hide stains and repairs with a stain-killing primer.

3 . P A I N TT H E WALLSFIRST Pro paintershave different preferences,but I like to paint the wallsfirst, then the trim. I can roll out the wallsquicklyand not worry about any spraylandingon the trim. Oncethe wallsare finished,I wipe down the trim with a damp rag and start on it. I don't mask off the trim when I cut in the walls,but maskingis certainlya good option if you'd rather not worry about getting wall paint on the trim. Any one of the low-tacktapes works well. Don't sweat it. Use tape. Prosrely on a steadystroketo avoidusing maskingtape in manysituations.But tape ensuresclean,straightlineswhile yoLt'restill improvingyour skill. 06

41

[--*"t*-*,*****']

Easy does it" Too much pressur-e on the roller will leave lines in the ^^i-.+ ^^ll^-J P < 1 i lt L L c l r V U r U P s ) .

r .i i i t i ; i i i : i i ' i :-i,;r-r, ';.

I ]i,: i : i..+i i i l {.:l to be used for a vanity cabinet, too. Place the template so that it is flush with the front of the cabinet.

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1 7 h oi n .

21/z in.

F o r u p p e r c a b i n e t s w i t h a d j u s t a b l e s h e l v e s ,I ensure accuratehole spacing by using a drilling template, which I made with a piece of melamine o n a f r i e n d ' s l i n e - b o r i n g m a c h i n e .Y o u a l s o c a n buy a template from most woodworking stores for around $25. This template's spacing ensures consistency and lets you take advantage of the European cabinetmaking system, with holes every 1 6 m m ( % i n . ) t h a t a l i g n s h e l v e sa n d h a r d w a r e . Use a cordless drill to place shelf holes accurately. Set this template againstthe bottom of the cabinet, and work your way up. The template is symmetrical, but working from the bottom up avoids any problems causedby a cabinetside that may have been cut a bit shorter than the other.

11/ain.

Off-center holes allow the template to be used for f rameless or facef rame cabinets.

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78

FINE HOMETJUILDING

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/*.+,eFi'{i.r.

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Tip: lnstall the cabinet backs last after drilling holes and installing'the hardware.This approach boosts your screw-driving comfort zone by allowing accessfrom front or back.

INSHLL DOORS WITH A HINGE STICK European-styte hinses come in two piecesia cup and a baseplate.The cup mounts to the door, and the baseplatemounts to the cabinet side. The two parts then snap or screw together. Becausethey're two-part hinges,it's crucialthat the correspondingpieces line up, or they wont snap together. My hinge stick keeps the distance between baseplatesand the setback from cabinet front consistent.To use it, insert cup hinges into the holes,and with hinges in the closed position, screwthe baseplatesto the cabinet side. Testthe operation of the hinge stick. lf all'swell, adjust the bumpered screwsto the distancebetween the open door and the cabinet. Now you can installall the baseplateswith the stick in the open position. The cup hole must be close to the edge of the dool or the door will rub against the cabinet when opened and closed. You almost can't be too close, but you certainly can be too far. About Vein. will allow the door to overlay the cabinet frame fully without rubbing.With the cup hinge squarely in the hole, set one screw. Ihis will ensure that all hinges are installed consistently.

Baseplate rnounts to cabinet.

Adjustment screws

Align the hinge stick with the top of the cabinet, drill pilot holes, and drive the baseplate screws. The bumpers ensure consistent setback on all the hinges.

Set the adjustable bumpers after the first set of hinges is in place and working well.

Drill holes all the way through so that the stfck can be used for leftor right-hinging and as a drilling guide. Cup holes are drilled an equal distance from the end so that the stick can be flipped top or bottom.

The best way to bore the cup holes is to use d 13h-in. Forstner bit with a depth stop in a benchtop drillpress. Set up a fence with reference marks to ensure consistent alignment. Without a benchtop drill press, the hinge stick can make a good drilling template if clamped to the door. GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

Electrical Site-builtwire spinner Workmanlike wiring is easierto achievewith a wire spinner.The sitebuilt versionshown below was whipped up by electricianPhil Clements in 15minutes,usinga handful of wire staples,a few l6d nails,a fender washer,assorted2x4 offcuts,and short lengthsof Romex cable.Phil first nailed together a pair of 2x4sto make a post about 24 in. tall, then attachedthe 24-in.-long basepieces.He stapledshort lengths of Romex to createa loosecradle that holds a coil of wire asit comes from the box. Hung from a nail in a ceiling joist or door header,Philb wire spinner rotateson the washer ashe pulls and uncoils flat lengths of wire without twists or kinks. M . S C OT T W A T KINA Srl i ngton,V a.

Bent 16d nail hanger

Wire-nut wrench

1

When wiring the 800sq.-ft.addition to my home,I had to install 1/z-in.-dia. hole about 100duplex outletsand switches. Halfway through the job, my fingerswere blistered from twisting wire nuts.That's Bottom vtew \ when I got the idea Sawkerfslot for wire-nut wings for this device. I made my little wrench out of lxl maple scraps.The hole in its businessend hasslotson both sidesto accommodatethe wings on the sidesof the wire nuts.The wrench'swide handle letsme get a firm grip to apply plenty of torque to the wire nuts.

5\

-RICHARD

N E L S O N S a n L e a n d r o ,C a l i f .

Clamp-nailing Sometimesan elecffic oudet or switch box hasto go between a couple of studsthat are so closetogether,there'sno room for a hammer or a drill bit. In this case,Ireachfor a C-clamp. As shown in the drawing, a clamp can be usedto squeezea nail into the stud. For good bearing,I useroofing nails during this operation.Occali,l sionally,I haveto drill holes in the sideof the box for \\/, the nails.

\1

\\i/i

2x4 base

_ D A V E K O HL E R

\v!

AI

Clarks Summit, Pa.

When space is tight, pull nail into stud with a C-clamp.

80

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Drawings: Charles Miller. Photo this page:Charles Bickford

Electrician's stick

Planningfor unknown wiring alterations

The next time you have to affix electricalboxesto stud framing for switchesor outlets,try using the jig shown in the drawing at right to position the boxes consistendy.I make the jig out of a strip of 3/+-in.by 3/+-in. pine. Two pairsof 4d nailsdriven through the stick correspondto the threaded holesin the boxes. To usethe stick, position the boxesover the nails and placethe stick on the floor adjacentto the stud. Now you can nail the box to the stud, and the height will be right everytime. -SANTO

Adding a new electrical oudet, a switch, computer-qetwork wiring, or a cable-TV jack is pretty simple in single-story homes. You have attack points from the basement and./or the Outlet box

attic to route wires through 4d nails

walls. But I build and remodel

\

A . I N S E R R AJ a m e s t o w n ,N . Y .

a lot of two-story homes. Running wires from a basement

\

service panel to the second floor means punching holes in walls and ceilings. As a result,I've gotten into the habit of installing at least two 2-in. conduits from the basement or service panel up 3/+-in.by %-in. pine

to the attic when I build a new house. In houses that I remodel,

1/z-in.

I try to incorporate conduits for

galvanized

future alterations while I have

Clean cuts for recessedcans ,I\[

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Section from plastic water bottle

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) PVC sleeve

ElectricianMel Minor installsa lot of recessed light fixtures in ceilings.In some cases,he hasto cut a hole in the drywall aswell asmount a fixture in the ceiling joists.To keep the messto a minimum, he makesthe circular cutoutswith the clever contraption in the drawing at left. Although it looks like a harpoon,this tool is actually a jumbo hole saw affixed to a pipe extension.Mel made the rig out of sectionsof Yz-in.galvanizedpipe, joined with couplings,and a threaded shaft at one end that fits into the chuck of his %-in.drill. Beneathhis hand is a hefty sectionfrom a plastic5-gal.water botde.The water botde is glued to a sleevemade of PVC pipe. When the shaft turns, the botde remainsstationaryasit catchesthe dust. _GARY M. KATZ Reseda, Calif.

walls open. Two conduits are important because householdcurrent wires aren't supposed to commingle with cable-TV, phone, network, or other lowvoltage/communications wiring. I flag the conduits in the attic with fluorescent orange surveyors'tape so that future installers can locate them. I also label the conduits at the service panel so that the homeowners know what they are for. And if I'm feeling especially generous,I pull a few strings through the conduits to make wire-pulling easier.My electri- : cian has even had to use the conduits right away while installing the finish on a project when he forgot a home run for a lighting circuit. _MIKEGUERTIN EastGreenwich,R.l.

GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

81

EleCtriCal (continued)

bulb sockets Adjusting recessed-can were casualtiesof this awkward handling. By the time I On a recentjob, I installeda row of recessed-lightfixtures in a finished, I was convinced that there had to be a better way kitchen ceiling.Thesefixtures haveadjustablebulb sockets. Generally,by the time a fixture is installedand the trim is attached, to do this job. The solution was simple. As shown in the drawing at left,I made the socketis almost alwaysout of position.If the bulb positions a Tlshapeddepth gaugethat registerson the are not the same,the whole installationlooks light-fixture'strim ring. The verticalleg of the sloppy,so it's important to get them uniform. light fixture Recessed-can T is equal to the distancefrom the socketto The first time I did this, I spent a lot of time the faceof the lightbulb. installingthe first bulb, removing it to adjust Socket adjustsup To setthe depth of a socket,Iloosenits the position of the socketto my bestguess, and down. R-40bulb bracket'swing nut enough sothat the socket reinstalling the bulb, and so forth. None of face will slideup and down, yet will stayput withthis was helped by the fact that the R-40 out support.Then I hold the gaugeagainstthe flood-lamp bulbs requestedby -y client trim ring and either raiseor lower the socket virtually filled the light-fixture's cavity, Ceiling Tighten the wing nut, and you're asnecessary. making it necessaryto useonly my fingertips gauge Hold against Cardboard in business. to screw the bulbs in and out. As you might gau9e trim ring to set -B E R T D A WKI NS Nor t hporN. t , Y. imagine, severalof theseexpensivebulbs

I

socket depth.

TrP I neMoDELTNG

Rotaryfishingrod When fishing a wire for a doorbell, I ran into a seemingly impossiblesituation. I'd drilled the hole for the bell push, and an angled hole through the wall plate into the proper stud bay from the eellar. But try as I might I couldn't get a wire from one to the other. Itried fish tape, a weighted string, bell wire, bead chain, profanitlr, hooks, and probes. I couldn't find any obstruction, but I couldn't find the wire either. As my last attempt before ripping off clapboards, I made the fishing rod shown at left. Starting with a piece of l/r-in. dowel about a foot long. I drilled a %e-in.hole acrqssthe diameter about 7a in. from one end. Through this hole I inserted a 15-in. piece of bell wire that I secured with a squaneknot, leaving the trro ends equal. I then chucked the other end of the dowel into an electric drill. Folding the ends of the wite so that they stuck out ahead of the dowel like antennae, I shoved the contraption into the hole in the plate as far as it would go, and turned on the drill. At 1200 rpm, the ends of the wire whipped out centrifugally,. lashing around inside the wall and entangling the weighted string left dangling from the bell-push hole. When I pulled the drill back through the hole in the

prate' rfound ":'J::il'::::f[Ti'H":::*".

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Plumbing Cookiesheet rests on brackets,

\

discarded galvanizedsteel ducts, both sides

'.\ i

Caulkingan undermount sink in place I needed to affix a stainless-steelundermount sink to a granite counter that was already installed on its cabinet bases.One of the problems presented by the situation was how to get a good silicone-caulk seal between the underside of the counter and the rim of the sink. Rather than rely on a bunch of braces and shims to wedge the sink in place, I used rope and a couple of wood blocks. As shown in the drawing below,I placed a wood cross brace over each bowl of the sink. Then I threaded a length of small-diameter rope through a hole in each brace and

Pipe-solderingblast shield Anybody who has ever sweat-soldered copper

through the drain holes. On the underside of the sink, the rope runs through a wood block under each drain tailpiece.

pipes at close quarters in a wooden house knows the feeling: The torch flame dances around the fitting, glancing off an old floor joist, and some wood

After running a bead of silicone around the rim of the sink, I rotated each block, short-

smoke fills the air. Will this solder ever meltl I don't take any chances when it comes to solder-

ening the ropes and drawing the sink upward with even

ing in a wooden building. I keep an extinguisher on hand, and even more important,I don't let the flame get anywhere near something flammable.

pressure exerted around the entire rim. The resulting joint is so strong it almost makes the mechanical fasteners redundant. _ A N D R E WS H E P P A R D

As shown in the drawing above, I use a pair of brackets to support an old cookie sheet when I'm working overhead. The cookie sheetshields the

Wood crossbraces

ceiling, the brackets protect the joists, and the solder can melt whenever it wants without me wor-

Madison,Conn.

rying about it. _JOHN CARROLL

s i l ,( i

Durham,N.C.

cRoss

Wood block

SECTION Rotate blocks to raise sink.

Through-wallpipe couplings Running pipe or conduit through a poured-concrete foundation wall with no gaps to patch and without cutring holes in the forms sounds too good to be true, until you've tried this trick. Cut a piece of the pipe you need, and attach couplings to both ends so that the total length of pipe plus couplings exactly matches the thickness of your wall, as shown in the drawing. Photo this page:Tom O'Brien

Couplingsat both ends This unit will fit snugly between the forms, and it can be wired to the rebar and spreaders at the top of the forms to stay in place during the pour. When the forms are pulled awa\tyou have a coupling embedded on each side, flush with the wall and ready for another length of pipe. - D . A . F L E U R yC u r l e wW , ash. GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

Plumbing

(continued)

Trimming pipes in place Seal a drain penetration in a foundation wall I've been searching for a better way to seal the gap around a drainpipe where it exits a foundation wall. The standard technique that most builders in my area use is to pack the gap with mortar or hydraulic cement. But lately, plumbing inspectors have been frowning on this practice becauseany shift in the soil during frost cycles can crack a rigidly installed pipe. Instead of mortar,I now use lowexpansion urethane foam to fill the gap around the pipe. This is the Foundationwall Hole in foundation

S o i ll i n e

Roof ventstackflashing

Urethane foam

tar

same stuff I use to seal cracks and crevices throughout the house to reduce air leaks. Once the foam has cured,I apply a layer of roof cement to the outside of the wall. This is the thick stuff, the kind of roof cement that you spread with a trowel. Then I slip a roof ventstack flashing over the pipe and bed the flashing in a %-in.-thick layer of roof tar.I lap the tar over the edges of the flashing to promote a better seal. At backfill time, care must be taken to prevent damage to the flashing. This extra care has presented no problems, and I've had great luck with the results. _ M I K EG U E R T I N EastGreenwich,R.l.

84

FINE HOMEBUILDING

A3A-in.by %-in. handle alsofundions asa.depthstop. ^

As I setthe plasticshowerpan into its mortar bed,I sawthe problem.The drainpipewas% in. too long, the pipe wasglued in place,and the plumber was long gone.Becausethe clearance around the drainpipeamountedto no more than about % in. on eachside,no saw of mine would be ableto trim the drain below the surfaceof the showerpan. To solvethe problem of cutting the pipe,I madea tubing cutter that works from the insideof the pipe.For a cutter,I useda drywall screw.As shown in the drawing above,I ran a 2-in. drvwall screw through a small block of wood. To this pieceof wood,I affixed a small handle,which alsofunctioned asa depth stop.In use,the handle rests atop the end of the pipe.Then I turned the device with the point of the drywall screwbearing againstthe insidesurfaceof the pipe. After a few turns, I pulled out the cutter and setthe screwa little deeper.In no time,I'd cut through the pipe. -WALTERGORRPittsburgh, Pa.

2-in. drywall-screwcutter Twist handleto cut pipe from inside.

erYr \ ) Drainpipe

Cutting plastic pipe While on one of my daily inspectiontours of the job site,I saw out of the cornerof my eyea plumber doing what looked like an aerobicexercisewhile standingshoulder deepin a narrow ditch. With sweatrunning down his face,he was rapidly pulling back and forth on a pieceof nylon mason'sline. When I askedhim what he was doing, he gaveme one of thoseyou-ignorant-dweeblooks and repliedthat he was cutting a piece of 4-in. ABS plasticdrainpipe. Sureenough,he just had made a perfectlystraightcut through the pieceof pipe.The pipe was almosttotally buried in the narrow ditch, in a positionthat would havebeen tough to reachwith evena reciprocalsaw.The plumber had threadedthe line under the pipe,asshown in the drawing. Then he useda quick sawing motion to cut-maybe burn is a better lsyrn-ths pipe in half. The trick to doing it right is to useenoughline so that you can make long passes, pumping back and forth, or up and down asthe casemay be.Don't stop,or the line will seizein the melted kerf. 4I ' ) A It turns out that mason'sline will cut ABS Plast \ and PVC pipe,schedule40 or 80.The method Nylon Pipe. mason's is equally usefulfor flush-cuttinga pipe line where it emergesfrom a wall or a slab. _ C R A I GS A V A G E Carpinteria,Calif.

\

\:

H O U S ES I D E

UNHEATEDGARAGE

Z-12-in.frostproof sill cocks

Freezeproofinga garage sink

Sharedwall

Every shop needs a slop sink, so I decided to install one in my attached garage workshop. BecauseI live in a cold climate and wanted to use the sink year-round, frost protection was mandatory.My solution was to locate a plastic laundry sink on the wall shared with the house and to use frostproof sill cocks for the hot and cold water supplies. These valves normally are used for outdoor faucets and are available in both 8-in.

Hot and cold supplylines

and l2-in. lengths. The supply lines run up from the basement inside the shared wall, protected from the cold by the warm interior of the house and its insulation. The tailpiece from the sinkt drain takes a 90o turn by way of a lVz-in. horizontal PVC drainpipe, which penetrates the rim joist before joining a P-trap in the basement. Putting the P-trap in the basement keeps its

Trap

contents frorn fr eezing. Whether it be for washing paintbrushes or just for scrubbing my dirty hands, the slop sink has been a satisfying addition to the workshop. - K A R L J U U L G l e n m o n tN, . Y .

To building drain Garage floor

I REMoDELTNG TrP LeakingPVCwater pipe

1. Cut coupling in half.

y' 2. Cutsection away from halved coupling. 3. Coat with glue, then snap modified coupling onto pipe and slide against leak.

PVC-pipepatch To fix a leaking joint in a PVCwater-supplyline, I start by cutting a coupling in half, making sure to remove the stop in the middle. I then cut one of the halvesin two. The ratio should be about 600loto 40o/o,with the larger piece just big enough not to break as it is pushed onto the pipe like a C-clip. I shut off the water and drain the line to let the joint dry out. Then I apply multipurpose glue, made for ABS and PVCpipe, to both the pipe joint and the patch. With the factory-edge side of the modified coupling toward the leak, I snap the patch over the pipe and slide it hard against the leaky joint. Some glue should squeezeout. Let it dry overnight, and the water line is readyfor use. -BRUCECALDERWOOD viaemail

Drilling holes in EPS I neededto drill an 8-ft.-longhole in the EPS (foam) coreof a stress-skinpanelin order to installa vent pipe for a kitchen sink. I don't know of any off-the-shelfbits or hole sawsdesignedfor a task like this, so I made my own, using a pieceof the samepipe that would end up in the hole.With my coping saw,I cut teethin the end of a pieceof ABS pipe. A coworker useda Surform planeto sharpenthe teeth. I mounted the other end of the 2-in. pipe in a 2%-in.-dia.hole saw.It fit perfectly.Three drywall screwsthrough the slotsin the sideof the hole saw securedthe ABS. Presto!I had a holesaw 8 ft.long attachedto my Yz-in.Hole Hawg drill. It easilycut a hole in the foam that was the exactsizel needed. -JlM

Hole saw

FRANDEENSoquelC , alif.

Screws

cutting teeth

( \

GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

85

I

Roofing Shinglecut table

Roof sheathing

On a recent roofing job, my brother askedme to cut severalbundlesof shinglesinto starterstrips to usealong the eaveand rake edges.As shown in the drawing below,I made a simplecut tableby nailing a lx3 along the bottom edgeof a 2-ft.by 3-ft. scrapof 3A-in.orientedstrandboard (OSB).By settingthe cut tableon a pair of sawhorses,Icould work with it at a comfortableheight. A lx4 prop on the undersidetilted the table to a better position, and I cut a 3-ft.-long by 7-in.-widestrip of %-in. OSB asa rip guide for cutting shingles. I seta pile of inverted shinglesagainstthe lx3 stop.Then I adjusted the blade on my utiliry knife so that it just scribedthe surfaceof one shingle when I ran it along the 7-in. guide. I was done cutting the startersin half the time it ordinarily takesme. -I found other shingle-cutting uses for the table,too. By resting al2-in. triangular framing square (sometimescalleda Starter SpeedSquare)against strips the stop,I could make accurate 3-ft.by 7-in. repetitivecrosscuts rip guide for rake startersor 1x3 stop trim shinglesfor ending coursesat walls. 1x4 prop _ B R U C EG U E R T I N Coventry,R.l.

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Z-ft. by 3-ft. scrap of plywood or OSB

Waterproof membrane Drip edge

Membrane covers gaP.

tt', \..

"\

Fascia

lce-dam prevention The drawing aboveshowshow to modify the typical roof-edgedetail to sealthe gap betweenthe fasciaand the roof sheathingfrom ice , dams. I run waterproof membrane a couple of inchesdown the fascia to a point below the top of the gutters. Becausewaterproof membranes aren't rated for exposureto sunlight,I coverthe membrane'with a pieceof flashing that runs from the edgeof the roof sheathingto the middle of the fascia.With this detail, ice buildups forming up from the gutter might get under the drip edge,but they can't get through the gap. C H U C KG R E E NA s h l a n dM , ass. Drawings, cxccpt whcre notcd: Charlcs Millcr. Photo this page: Roe A. Osborn.

Start first course with nailsonly

I nEMoDELTNG TrP Asphalt-shing le reroofing Tucklower course under this row.

)

Shinglingfrom the top down

Second starting coursebegins an equal numberof exposures below the first row of shingles.

A lot of people think I'm kidding when I sing the praises of shingling a house

courses from the eave, as defined by the shingle exposure. Now nail your first

from the ridge down. Quite to the contrary, shingling a roof from the top down (we're talking asphalt shingles here) can be faster than going from the

course of shingles with the lower edges following the line, but tacked along the top only. Shingle upward from this

eavesup, and it always gives a better roof. For example, starting at the ridge and working down savesyou from walking over the materials you just applied. On a hot day, the wear and tear on an asphalt roof can be considerable. On roofs requiring staging, you can fasten the duckboards and scaffold supports directly to the deck without special brackets. They'll also be convenient ro remove on your way down, without fear of damaging the roof. In reroofing, there is an additional advantage: Becausedebris slides down over only the old roof, you can redo only as many courses at a time as you feel comfortable removing. The trick is to have several starter courses and initially to nail these shingles at the top only. As shown in the drawing abbve, snap a line below the ridge that gives you a comfortable reach. The line should be an exact number of

Photo this page:Bill Phillips

course to the ridge in normal fashion. Move your staging down, if need be, and snap another line an exact number of courses below your first one, again within a comfortable reach. As you prepare to nail down this second srarter course, don't forget to start with a full tab or a half tab at the rake, depending on whether you have an odd or even number of courses to lay. Shingle upward to the initial starting course,

Have you ever noticed the wavy pattern on a roof with two layers of asphalt or fiberglassshingles?This is due to the uneventhicknessof the shingleswhere they overlap,which can create as many as six thicknesses. To prevent shinglebuildup on the typical 5-in. exposure roof, trim the first row of new shinglesto 5 in. and the second row to 10 in., and butt them againstthe bottom edge of the old coursesabove. Theseshingleswill work as spacersthat allow the new roof to start a different overlap pattern that missesthe old bumps,with a 3-in. exposureon the first row and a normal 5-in. exposurefrom there on. This method lets you butt the new shinglesagainstthe bottoms of the old. First,though, make sure the courses on the old roof are straight. Your new roof now will lie flat. -JACK

McGHIE TucsonA , riz.

Originalroof

\

-

nias"r@

==F THE WRONG WAY

which you will lift out of your way to allow the lower course to tuck under it. With the lower course safely nailed in place, you can nail the initial srarter course of shingles in the normal fashion. Repeat this sequenceas often as necessary to reach the eave. This technique is simpler to do than it is to describe, and in my experience, this method becomes part of the permanent repertoire of all who try it. E M A N U E JLA N N A S C H Halifax,N.S.,Canada

GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

ROOfing

(continued)

Removinga damaged shingle Someroof repairs-nail pops,for example-require replacing singleshingles.Removing the damagedshingle without damaging the surrounding shinglesis the tricky part. This processis bestdone while shinglesare cool enough not to melt underfoot and warm enough not to crack. In the summer,I handlethis part of the repair before8 a.m. In the winter, I do only emergencyrepairs. 1 First, break the bond createdby the seal-downstrips below and on the two coursesabove the shingleyou want to remove.This stepmay'bedifficult with somenewer laminatedshingles:A 5O-yearshingle with a 110-mphwind warranty has an aggressiveadhesivebond. In these cases,Icut the adhesivestrip with a pry bar. 2 With the bondsbroken,I can removethe four nails holding the damagedshingle. 3 Before I remove the shingle, though,I haveto removefour more nails driven through the courseabove. 4 Now I can pull out the damagedshingle,slip in a new shingle,and renail all the loosenedshingles. When refasteningshingles,don't pur new nails in the old nail holes;they'll pop right out. Insread,nail nexr ro the holes,and put a dab of sealantover the old holes.While your caulk gun is handy, sealdown all the loosenedshingle tabswith a dab of sealant.

Cedar-roofshinglingguide

- S T E P H E N H A Z L E T TA k r o n O , hio

Exposureplus 1 in.

Markingguide

1 - i n . - w i d se t o p b l o c k , 4 i n . long by % in. thick 88

FINE HOMEBUILDING

A few yearsago at a cedar-shinglemanufacturer'sseminar,the local rep showeda film of a real professionalinstallingshingles.This guy was nailing so fast that the entire room burst out laughing.Roofing is only part of my repertoire, and that levelof skill isn't in the cardsfor me. When I do install wood shingles,Isetthe coursesto a pencil line that I mark using a simple guide made out of a 4-ft. to 5-ft. length of %-in. plywood. To make the guide,I rip the plywood to a width equal to the exposureof the shingles, plus I in. I affix l-in.-wide,4-in.Jong,Vz-in.thick stopblocksto the undersideof the plywood at eachend asshown in the drawing at left. I positionthe guide so that the stopblockscatch the butts of the previouscourseof shingles,and I draw a line along the top of the guide to locate the butts of the next course.Next,I move the . guide up,lay its bottom edgealong this line, and mark anotherline along the top of the guide. Of course,the shinglescoverthis line asthey'relaid down, but the guide providesa referenceline for nailing on the leadingedge.As a control,I snapa chalklineeveryfew courses. -ARNE WALDSTETN GreatBarrington, Mass. Photos this page: Daniel S. Morrison

S h i n g l eh o l d e r Roofswith a 5-in-12to a 7-in-12pitch can be walked, but shingles awaiting installationtend to slide.To keep shingleswithin reachasthey are installed,I usea shingleholder made up of a strip of lx4 about 8 ft. long and a2x4 block and two 4x4blocks,3r/zin.long. Attach the blocksto the strip by nails driven through the back of the either 36-in.or lx4. A 40-in. spacebetweenthe blocksaccommodates lm shingles.At the top of the 1x4,I drilled aVz-in.-dia.hole,which I thread over a roofing nail driven halfway into the roof. I placethis nail just abovethe top of the groove of the shingleI've already Holder is installedin the previous securedby a Shinglesrest on partially driven course.When I move 4x4 blocks. roofing nail. the shingleholder,I --\.:i just pound in that nail all the way, and the next courseoverlapsit, ,.... -JOHN rr':..

:

"'

Wire hook Centerline of holes Exposureplus half of double covera9e

CARROLL

Durham,N.C.

'(/.

TIPS I REMoDELTNG

-- ,/' a-'

a

--

.-/ -

Shinglecleanup Stripping the old shinglesoff a houseis a messyjob by anybody's standards.The accumulatedpiecesof cedar or asphalt tend to rain down around the house,often damagingfragile landscaping.To prevent this problem, I use a sheet of 6-mil poly to act as a combinationprotective barrier and tarpaulin,as shown in the drawing below. I staple the poly to the top piece of a 2x4 frame, making sure that the top edge of the poly is doubled and wrapped around the horizontal 2x4. This arrangement savesa lot of cleanuptime and leavesmy clientssmiling. -CHAR LIE WOODHOUSE Kensington, Calif.

Wire hook made of 1O-ga. copper wire

Length equals half of double coverage.

Slate-roof repair The drawing above showsmy method for replacinga broken roof slatewithout exposed wire. After removingthe broken slate,drill a pair of holes in the new slate.The distancefrom the bottom edge of the slate to the centerline of the holes equalsthe exposureof the slate plus half its double coverage(that portion of the course where three slates overlap one another).The bent ends of a 1O-ga. copper-wirehook passthrough the holes. The rest of the wire hook passesunder the replacementslate and hangson the top edge of the slate directly beneath it. -R A N D Y E . ME D LINLaur inburN. g,C.

G R E A TB U I L D I N G T I P S 2 0 0 6

Siding A site-madesaw guide for cutting vinyl 1 x s h i p l a ps i d i n g

Cutting vinyl soffit and siding marerial can be done quickly and accurately with a saw

2

Kert marks cutline.

guide.I usually have a commercially available guide on site. Once in a while, though, it goes missing, and I have to improvise. In one such instance,I noticed a few

)

a--

-'.,7---V.inylsoffit or sidingmaterial

-/

-----? 7

scraps of 1x6 shiplap siding on the burn pile. As shown in the drawingr l cut two pieces 33 in. long and, with their rabbeted edges facing one another,laid them upside down atop a couple of 2x6s. With the 1x6 pieces set at a distance equal to the width of my saw's base,I screwed them to the 2x6s. This setup made a nifty little slide guide for cutting vinyl siding or squaring lx or 2x stock. The sawkerf in the far 2x6 indicares rhe cutline. In the near 2x6,a nail acts as a safety stop to keep the saw from acciden-

S5w base rides siding rabbets. Nail as safety stop

tally backing out of the guide. _WILL RUTTENCUTTER Valdosta,Ga.

Clean cornersfor manufacturedsiding

ShingleTLC

I've been installing a lot of nonwood siding over the past few years, such as cementbased and hardboard lap siding. To complement their clean look, I've taken to installing custom-made steel corners. As shown in the drawing below, the corners

I had to replace windows in a 30-year-old house that was covered with cedar shingles, and try as I might,I found it impossible not

have flanges that are nailed to the wall and act as integral flashings in caseany moisture gets behind the siding. The siding abuts the projecting corner of the metal

to scar some of the shingles with my ladder. Also,I had to remove some shingles to trim them, which further damaged their faces.

trim details. A local metal shop makes the corners from steel gutter stock. This material is i-nexpensiveand comes in brown, white, or primer. The steel corners hold paint beautifully. Before I started using these corners,I used cedar corner boards. They would shrink eventually,leaving a cracked caulk joint. With steel corners, rhar problem is a thing of the past. R I C H A R DD A R B YM e r l i nO , re. 1 in.

rr,

rr

t

After thinking about the problem,I decided to try reviving the shingles with a very soft wire brush. I brushed with the grain, starting at the top and working down. I first tried a small spot in an unobtrusive place and found that the shingles had a nap like suede or velvet. Brushing with the grain pushed all the fibers back into the grain lines that emerge as the shingles weather with age.I brushed all the shingles around each window about a foot out from the casings,and then I spraysd them lightly with a hose to clean the wall. of fine particles. When everything dried, evidence that any work had been done was

barelynoticeable.

1 - i n .f o l d s 2Vzin:

_RICHARDE. REED

Outside corner

90

Insidecorner

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Insidecorner at bay window

Outside corner at bay window

Doylestown, Pa.

CLAPBOARD SIDING Scribing curved clapboard ends I had to apply clapboardsto the side of a garage that has arched doors, which meant that I had to cut the ends of the clapboardsto match the changingarc of the trim around the doors. I think the method I came up with to mark the curve worked out better than the typical scribing technique. As shown in the drawing, I cut a piece of scrap sheet metal into a strip about 8 in. long and % in. wider than the curvedtrim. I laid the metal tight against Finishingnails the trim and held it with a few finishingnails.Then I rubbed a pencil along the edge of the metal, held a clapboardagainst it, and pressedfirmly. The back of the clapboardnow had a perfectly curved cutline to follow with my jigsaw. _RICK BOISVERT North Dartmouth, Mass.

Tar-papersplinesensure a leakproof joint Placedunder each butt joint and at the windows,the splineslap the lower course by th in. and guide any water that enters the joint to the outside of the clapboards. -MIK E GU E R TIN E astGreenwich, R. l.

Gang-cuttingangled clapboards

4-in' exPosure

The next time you're cutting clapboardsthat run from a vertical window or sidewallto a rake board, try this trick. Cut the roof angle on one end of five clapboards(l stack them and cut them all at once with an 8%-in. circularsaw). While the points of the clapboardsstill are lined up, slide a squarealong the bottom edge of the top clapboard.As shown in the drawing, align the -exposuremark (in this case4 in.) with the edge of the clapboardend. Now, mark the edge of the top clapboard,flip the square,and extend the mark acrossall the clapboards.Slide the boards so that the pointed ends line up with the marksabove them, as shown in the drawing. Measurethe first clapboard,and you're ready to make the cut (l Problem:Lay out and suggesta 1O-in.power gang-cut the clapboards miter saw for this). between the window Rake board and the rake board. After about 15 clapboards, it's a good idea to remeasure becauseerrors have a tendency to accumulate. _RANDALL SMITH Barrington, N.H.

Photo this page: Andy Engel

/-

First, find the exposure with a square.

p-Roof

angle

Markthe bottom edge of the top clapboard.

Next, extend the mark across all the clapboards.

-*t4fif

\.. 'l

4t:.-47-'z'Z::V

,

/ Now, spread the boards so

GREAT BUILDING

TIPS 2006

Siding

(continued)

Shingleshelf When wood-shinglinga roof or a sidewall,keepinga readysupplyof shingles closeat hand can be a problem.The simple shelfshown herecan be secured by tucking the taperedtab under an alreadynailed courseof shingles.In this way, shinglescan be kept convenientlyclose to the height at which you are working, 2 i n .t o 3 i n . insteadof down by your feeton the staging. A bunch of theseshelvescan be made from rejectedshinglesand scrapsof lx6s or Taper shinglefor lx8s. Cutting the top cornersoff the shingle easy insertion under installed shelfmakesit easyto slip under courses. nr",""jl. -K EN D A L LG tF F o R DP u tn eV y,t.

3d shinglenails

WORKING ALONE Solo housewrapping

Hanging clapboardsby yourself

Carpentersend up doing a lot of four-handed operations with only two hands. Here's how I use a stick and a C-clampto install housewrap by myself. Typically,one person staples the housewrapto the wall while another penion stays out front, unrolling the roll and keeping the housewrapsmooth and level. In this case,the other person is a 1x3 with a small crossbarto act as a shelf for the roll of housewrap. I clamp the shelf at a point that correspondsto the bottom of the housewrapwith the 1x3 resting on the ground and leaning againstthe wall. To use the setup, I unroll a couple of feet to staft. Then lstaple it in place,unroll about 15 ft., and lean the rig against the wall. I use lumber offcuts to prop up the thing when I hit some low spots. The 54-in. rolls of housewrapare ideal for solo work.

With several site-made Deck screws hangerslike the one in with finishing washers the drawing at right, I can handle unwieldy lengthsof clapboard by myself. Check I attach the hangersverti- joint l6talled here. clapboard cally on the wall, aligning the marks with the bottom edges of the last course of clapboards.Two short deck screwsrun through finishing Z-in. washerswill keep a hanger overlap jamming from pivoting and as I position a clapboard on Cedarshingles with 1-in. offset the house. Alignmentmark I install a clapboard from below, lifting it until the bottom of the clapboard reaches the lip formed by the butt of the bottom shingle. At that point, the springinessof the shinglepops the hanger '. under the clapboard,holding it in place. Now l'm free to slide the clapboardas needed to determine cut marks.To remove a clapboard, ljust give it an outward twist at the top edge. This springsthe shingleaway from the wall, allowing me to drop the clapboardout of the hangerfrom any distanceon the wall.

_LAWRENCE E. PRYKAN Garfield Heights, Ohio

1x shelfset to appropriateheight

FINE HOMEBUILDING

-CHRIS

E L L I S B r e w s t e r ,M a s s .

Photo this page:Randy O'Rourke

S p l i n e ds i d i n g

Birdhousevent box

I sheathedmy workshop with 1x6boardsjoined with galvanizedsplines.This method gets the most out of the width of a board. For the splines,Iused2-in.-widegalvanizedsteel,commonly usedto strap togethershipmentsof bulky goods(thin stripsof nylon or plasticalsocould be used).My wall framing consistsof 4x4son

I often remodel or add on to older wood-clapboardhouses. When I'm facedwith unsightly holesin the walls,suchasthe dryer vent pictured here,I offer to concealthem with this simplebit of craftsmanship.The "birdhouse"is made from scrap clapboardsand trim stock,takes little time to fabricate,and really impressesclients. I positionit sothat the roof nestlesdirecdy under a clapboard or flashit with a thin strip of copperif needed,then sizethe box to allow the vent flap to open,or whateverelseI'm covering to function. The sidesare trim stock,5/4 cedarin this case, scribedto the profile of the clapboards.The roof is a clapboard sizedappropriately,and the front is clapboardswith half the revealof the wall they're mounted on. Hidden cedar cleatsare usedfor attachment. These boxesnot only solve little problemsbut alsoare a lot of fun to build.

2-in. galvanizedsteel spline

1 x 6s i d i n g

8-ft. centers,with platesat top and bottom and a midrail. I ran eachpieceof siding over my tablesawto cut a l-in.-deep kerf in eachedge. Once I had a board in place,I inserteda fulllength splinein the kerf. The neighboring board acceptsthe protruding spline.I kept nailsaway from the splinesand left a little play between adjacentboardsto allow for wood expansion. -J O NATHAN DAVI ES Queensland, Australia

-ED

_-__z_

7 o$r-*nt holehasbeencut in clapboardsiding.

4

2 hstatlvent flap. 3 Scribe birdhouse sides to clapboard profile.

W E B E R L o c u s t v i l l eV, a .

Guide shingle

---")

4 etti" cleats above and to sides of vent flap.

Router-scribedshingles f've seena number of tips for cutting outside cornerson shingledwalls,but none is assimple or asfoolproof as the method shown in the drawing above.As illustrated,I usea bearingguided flush-trimming bit in a small router to trim the overlapping shingle asthe bearing follows the profile of the guide shingle. W I L LH E S C H Atascadero,Calif.

5 rri^ birdhouse sidesto scribe marks. 5 Afirsides and top to cleats. Finishwith siding scraps. Leave bottom open.

GREATBUILDING TIPS2006

Trim Roof sheathing

--\

.,rt'

,

Blocking for crown

''t"''

Marking a squarecut on a round column Recently,I had to cut an 8-in.-dia. wood column to length. Becausethe column was too big for my miter box and needed to be cut exactly square,I mulled over my options. A colleague recommended using a piece of rosin paper to encircle the column at the required length. When the edges of the paper were aligned,I marked my cut and used a jigsaw to lop off the unwanted portion of the column. Note in the section of the column how I angled the jigsaw a'bit to create a slight back cut, ensuring a tight fit

Rafter tail

Soffit

where the column sits on its base. - P A T R I C KA . M o L Z A H NO r e g o n , W i s .

Soffit nailerblock Bedmolding Spacerblockson

tb-in.centers

.1

Frieze //

8 - i n . - d i a .w o o d c o l u m n

Corrugatedvent strip Circulating air ---------v

Z

Sidingtucts --// behind frieze.

Framedand sheathedwall

Stealth venting for a traditional boxed eave Ordinary strip or button-type soffit venrs can ruin the look of a complex eave detail, such as the one shown above. Instead,I hold the frieze board off the wall sheathing with spacer blocks; a hidden vent strip allows air to enter and circulate into the rafter bays. Special blocking attached to the rafter tails provides nailing for the Column section

inside edge of the soffit and for the flat crown molding. - R O B E R T W E A T H E R A LlLp s w i c hM, a s s .

Hangingfasciaboards Even with two people,it can be pretty precariousout thereon the end of a rafter,strainingto supporta heavyfascia board with one hand while trying to line up a mitered cornerand sink.a galvanized16dnail with the other hand. With the help of a simple jig, one person can do it comfortably.

FINE HOMEBUILDING

I tack one jig near each end of the fascia, driving the nails just far enough to support the fascia. Then I lower the fascia into the slots in the jigs (cut the slots a little oversize to prevent binding). The jigs hold the fascia in approximately the right place while I adjust it for alignment and nail it in place. - N E A L B A H R M A NV e n t u r aC, a l i f ,

Drawing top right: Rick Daskam

Zero-maintenance crown molding

Plastic container with lid keeps primer from drying out.

I recently enclosed the porch on our house, and in doing so,I needed a crown molding for the gable-end

\._

bargeboards. I didn't have to look far. By ripping some lengths of aluminum gutter, as shown in the drawing below,I was able to fashion'inexpensive, zero-maintenance crown moldPrime end-grain cuts during construdion.

smaller container.

Extend the life of exterior trim by priming the end-graincuts For maximum durability,I backprime exterior components such as fascia boards wirh 100% acrylic primer. But what about the ends of these boardsl If they also are primed and caulked together, end-grain splices

Now when the carpenters are running exterior trim, they can easily

will last over the long haul. Withour priming, end-grain cuts will soak up

swab the ends of the boards with a pass from the paint pad (a paint pad

moisture quickly and begin ro rot. The problem is rhar end-grain cuts can't be painted until they are cut and

is much faster than a brush because it carries more paint). I used this technique on the last spec house that

fitted by the carpenrers. Priming boards can be a potential

I built, and it worked grear. The carpenters billed me for only a couple of extra hours of work becausepriming the end-grain cuts barely made a dent

headache for carpenters, so I devised a simple system to make the processgo as smoothly as possible. As shown in the drawing above, I keep the primer

on it. A paint pad also lives in the container, resting in a smaller plastic box to keep the pad's handle out of the pool of primer.

ings that match the gutrers. I ripped the gutter into two portions,leaving a

1. Ril

Save this piece for drip edge.

("' |

N

2. Fold flap upward.

3. Drill nail holes on 12-in.centers.

Roof sheathing

in their speed. _ B Y R O NP A P A

in a clear plastic container with a lid

Durham,N.C.

1 - i n .a l u m i n u m n a i l

Backerboard WRONG WAY

Caulk Trim board

;_j=) RIGHTWAY

Backerboard

Caulk Trim board

Caulkneeds help to stay flexible Caulk that is allowed to bond to all sides of a joint cannot expand and contract without becoming unstuck. A foam backer rod enables caulk to behave like an accordion in responseto seasonalexpansion and contraction. _ J O H N M I C H A E LD A V I S

Aluminumfascia

l-in.-wide flap on rhe crown-molding pieces.I bent this flap by hand over a piece of Vz-in. stock. Then I drilled through this folded edge on l2-in. centers for nails. The rest of the gutterl I'll use it for drip edges on my next project. _JACKMURPHY Pittsburgh,Pa.

New Orleans

Drawing bottom left: Christopher Clapp

G R E A TB U I L D I N G T I P S 2 0 0 6

95

Stringers 1. Clampjig to stringer.

A fast, accurate way to make mortised stairs The typical approach to stair-building is to cut

Mark here for top of next mortise.

Guide cleats, both sides

bird's-mouth notches in a pair of stringers, then affix the treads to the tops of the bird's mouths. Cutting mortises in the sidesof the stringers to acceptthe treads is far stronger, so I devised a jig

2. Router with bearing-guided bit follows slot contour, cutting tread mortise.

:\

Rise Room for router to maneuverwithin dotted lines

Guide slot {or mortise equals depth of treads.

to lay out and cut mortised stringers quickly. First, lay out the stair'srise and run on a piece of Yz-in.plywood. The plywood (1) should be big enough to work as both a router template and as a layout tool for the next mortise. Next, cut a slot in the plywood deep enough to accommodate the depth of the treads. The slot's

3. Cut treads to equal lengths, and snug them together with pipe clamps or a block and hammer.

4. Secure treads with three corrosionresistant screws or nails.

width should equal the thickness of the treads, plus a bit of wiggle room. Align the plywood iig on the stringer, and affix a pair of guide cleats to each side of the jig. The cleats register the jig on the stringer and give you purchase to clamp the jig. Clamp the jig to the stringer, and use a router with a bearing-guided bit to cut a3/q-in.-deepmortise (2). Make more than one passto cut the full depth. Before moving the jig, draw a

clamps can come in handy at this point for drawing the opposing

line acrossits top edge to mark the edge of the next mortise. Cleats

stringers toward one another. They should not be so snug that you

on both sideslet you flip the yig and rout the other stringer. Cut all the treads to equal lengths (3). Set one end of the first

have to pound things together, and not be so loose that the assembly

tread in the first mortise of one stringer. Bring the other stringer to it. and set the tread in its first mortise. Continue from one end to the other, getting all the treads started in their mortises. Pipe

will rack. I prefer screwing the stringers to the treads (4) as insurance against the stringers'warping and pulling the nails out of the end grain. - R I C H A R D W A S HB U R NP e n o b s c oMt .a i n e

Stable stringersand an accuratelayout A few years ago,I read a Fine Homebuilding article by a carpenter who laminated 3/q-rn. plywood for stringer stock because2x stock tends to shrink, which makes treads sag.It occurred to me that an LVL (laminated-veneer lumber) would be even better. Although LVL stringers remain stable, LVLs aren't always straight, so check for crown before laying them out. LVLs come in standard l3/c-in.thickness, in standard widths, and in almost any length. LVLs cost more than 2x stock, so be extra sure of your layout before cutting. I prefer to use locking pliers with a framing square when marking the layout becausethey have more surface riding on the stringer stock and are more accurate than stair-gauge stops. - J O H N S P I E R B l o c kl s l a n d R Also, they're easierto find in your toolbox. , .l. FINE HOMEBUILDING

Anchor-bolt clamps Sx-in. upper anchorbolts hook through sidesof 2x4s.

To build a circular staircaseon site,I needed about 100 clamps. C-clamps were too slow to install and tighten, too valuable to leave on a job site, and too heavy to lug around, so I devised two kinds of

s/e-in.

2x rem

clamps that use Yz-in. anchor bolts and 2x framing lumber.

hole

jaw

To laminate a stringer, I start by laying out the stair plan on the subfloor. Then I make a bending form by securingZx4s to the layout lines. The 2x4s become part of the clamp. The top of each removable jaw is secured to its 2x4 with a 6-in. anchor bolt. The bolt's hook

va>

Balcony subfloor

fits througha%-in. hole in the side of the 2x4;aspacer block of suitable thickness takes up the bolt's unthreaded portion. The bottom of the jaw is secured to the form by an 8-in. anchor bolt through the

Laminated

frame

Eight-in.bottom anchorbolts run through 2x4s.

2x4.In use,I insert the top bolt first, snug it to keep the assembly Handrail clamps screwedto subfloor

Plywoodgusset 2x4 bending form

together, then run the bottom bolt through. I use an electric impact wrench with a deep socket to tighten and remove the nuts quickly. For handrails,I use a seriesof clamp brackets, as shown in the drawing. Here, they are screwed to a balcony subfloor to laminate a simple curved handrail, but they also can be affixed to stair treads to laminate spiral handrails.

Stair-stringer stress relief Experience has taught me to cut stringers out of 2x stock carefully. If the sawcut goes even a litde bit beyond the intersection of the rise and run, it can create a weak spot that either can weaken the stringer or can cause one of the ears that support the treads to fall off if it's bumped during installation. The drawing below shows how I avoid the problem. After marking the layout for rise and run,I bore Yz-in.-dia. keyholes where the backs of the treads and the bottoms of the risers are ro meer. Then I use a circular saw to make the bulk of the cuts, stopping short of theholes and finishing the cuts with a jigsaw. The keyholes provide stressrelief, minimizing the chances of a sawcut-induced crack weakening the stringers. I've been using this technique for the past 12 or so years, and the method hasn't failed me yet.

Strengtheningthe rough stringer's first step with glued and nailedplywood gussetsensuresthat the stringerwon't break across the weak diagonalgrain.

Plywood

gusset

-ROBERT J. DICK Lovettsville,Va.

Roughstringer

Y--l

\

r' it li

f

ii

,/ il

//" L'1' i.{

Finish cutouts, taking care not to overcut.

_MICHAEL STANDISH

2x4 cleat

West Roxbury Mass.

Reinforcingthe first step Bore 1/z-in.-dia. holesat inside intersection of riseand run. Lay out rise and run in typical manner.

',!,1 /

'.

notched for a2x4 floor cleat. Becausethe wood wants to split along the weak diagonal grain,I always beef up the carriages by screwing and gluing a piece of plywood to the sides. - M I C H A E L v o r .D r E C K B A R - F R A B B I ENLeEwO r l e a n s

2x stair stringer

Drawings, except where noted: Robert Goodfellow. Photos: Roe A. Osborn. Drawings facing page,this pagetop and bottom left: Charles Miller.

w,

The bottom of a stringer can be weakened if you have to cut the first step shorter rhan the unit rise to allow for tread thickness (usually I in.)and if the stringer is

/ GREAT BUILDING TIPS 2006

Treads& Risers Gauge measuresshim thickness In many cases,stair stringers are built by the framing carpenter, who is long gone by the time you come along to make a silk purse out of an old sow's ear. Although many framers do a great job, it's in your best interest to build the rough stringers yourself,,or at least check them with a level and rule before you bid on finishing the stairs.

I make a shim gauge out of a scrap of wood. I measure along both edgesof the shim and make marks every Vrcin. in thickness. I then color in every other segment with a marker. After I've got the gauge made, I rip shims of different thicknesses and keep them on hand. Some people use shingles as shims, but their tapered profile gives them uneven bearing; the surface to be shimmed only hits the high point of the shingle.

A tapered shimgauge, cut from a scrapof wood and calibrated by the 16th of an inch,makes

To use the gauge,I simply slip it under the tread or behind the riser (inset drawing at left) that needs shimming and tap it in until

a handy gauge for determining shim thickness.

the tread is level or the riser is plumb. I note the mark on the gauge, remove the gauge, and replace it with one of my precut shims. Once you have the shim in place, the difficult work is done. Then it's just a matter of fastening the tread or riser to the stringer. The whole processof shimming treads is slowed or voided if the

*\

center stringer is too high. When cutting my own stringers,I elimi-

Fill in with / colored marker for easy reference.

nate the possibility by overcutting both the treads and risers of the center stringer by %in. to3/sin. When I install the treads, I level and shim the two outside stringers. Then it is simply a matter of gluing and screwing a lYz-in. cleat to the center carriage, which is brought into contact with the finished tread. I use the same process for the risers. - M I C H A E L v o r . rD E C K B A R - F R A B B I E L E New Orleans

Fitting stair treads Cobbled together out of scrap plywood, the jig shown in the drawing below makes it easy to fit stair treads between a pair of walls or skirtboards. To use the jig,loosen the wing nuts and lay

Leveling across the width of a tread rs easier with a 10-in. Ievel cut from a larger level. Extension caps screwed to each end of the level accommodate cupped treads.

Wood level cut to 10in.

it acrossthe tread cuts of the stair stringers with its back tight against the riser cuts. Then extend the legs so that they're snug against the walls 1/+in. by 1/+in. carriage bolts

or skirtboards. and tighten all the nuts. Remove the jig carefully, place it onto the tread

{

hffi ru

lu'll *,Y)

stock, and scribe the end cuts on the

block

Cupped tread

stock. When cutting, leave just a trace of the cutline Extend legsfor a snug fit againstwall or skirtboard.

for a perfect fit. _ROBERT

Shoftened level fits on tread When leveling treads from front to back, it's handy to have a small

PLOURDE

level. For years,I used a2-ft.level, but I was constantly knoiking it

Atlanta

off the step becauseit hung off the end of the tread. I've also never found a small bullet level that didn't seem like a toy. To solve the problem,I cut down a larger wood level to 10 in. and screwed small extension blocks of wood on the ends. The blocks extend past the bottom of the level and give me an accurate read on cupped treads. - M I C H A E L v o r ,D r E C K B A R - F R AE B LBEI New Orleans

98

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Drawing bottom left: Charles Miller

Railings Covering newel-post bolts Sometimesthe only way to fastenthe newel post is to anchorit to the stringer.Often, the bolt holesyou haveto drill are at an angle other than squareto the faceof the newel. Off-angle holescan be hard to plug, and when you do plug them, they usuallydon't look right. Insteadof plugging holes,I saw %in. off the faceof the newel with a bandsaw,drill and install the bolts,and then glue the piece over the holes.The bandsawlimits the lossof stock to about Ytzin.-hardly noticeable4

this, I hooked the fence of the squareover the right side of the sliding table on my tile saw,making sure that the other side of the squarebutted againstthe saw fence. Wth each squarein this position, I made the cuts with the tile saw.Becausethe blade on the tile saw is designedto grind through ceramicmaterialand not the compositematerialof the squanes,I made these cuts in severalpasses,taking off a little each time. When done, both squareswenecut preciselythe same,with the cut parallelto the fence of the square. Next, I clamped one of these cut squareson the sliding table to the right of the sawblade. As before, I hooked the fence of the squareover the right edge of the sliding table and butted the edge of the squareagainstthe saw fence. I used a 1-in. C-clampthreaded through one of the holes in the sliding table to hold the squarein place. In this position, the cut edge just kissedthe right side of the sawblade. After clampingdown the first square,I used another 1-in. C-clampto affix the other squaneto the left of the sawblade. But first I had to cut away half of the fence on the squareso that it would lie flat on the table. I used a coping saw followed by a belt sander for this task. After sliding the edge of the squareagainstthe fence of the saw and

Simple iig for cutting small tile

positioning it so that the cut end just kissedthe left side of the sawblade,I clampedthe

Cut with a wet saw, small

squareto the table. The spacebetween the two squaresequaledthe width of the kerf

glass tiles often are difficult

created by the sawblade.

to hold and cut accurately.

When usingthe jig, I slid a tile into the V-shapedspaceformed by the two plastic

I make an L-shaped cut in

squares.As the drawing above shows,this spaceheld the tile at a 45" angle, with the cor-

a larger piece of tile and use it as a jig to hold the

ner of the tile in line with the sawblade.After a few trial-and-errorcuts and minute adjust-

smaller tiles in line with

ments to the position of the squaneon the left, I achievedprecise,uniform results.I was

the sawblade.

able to cut the 100 triangular piecesthat I needed in about 20 minutes. -JOHN

108

FINE HOMEBUILDING

C A R R O L L D u r h a m ,N . C .

_TOM MEEHAN Harwich, Mass.

Drawings:CharlesMiller.Photos:CharlesBicHord.

CONTINUED

Removing a broken tile When I'm calledon to replacea broken or chippedtile,I prefer to removethe offending tile using an anglegrinder outfitted with a 4-in. diamond blademade by Pearl Abrasive($42;www.pearlabrasive.com). This approachis good for thick, soft-bodied tiles suchassaltillo,but it works on others aswell. The tile must be larger than 4 in., or there won't be room for the grinder blade. If the tile is smallerthan 4 in., I usea hole saw to cut out the center portion of the crackedtile. Although it's a slow process,I'm left with a hole in the tile that is pried easilywith the tip of a chiselor a screwdriver.

1. lsolate the victim. To keep the neighboringtiles intact, the first step is to score the grout lines with a utility knife. A few light passesdo the trick.

2. Protection is prevention. Before cutting, it's a good idea to mask off any nearby cabinets or furniture with plasticand tape. On the floor, angle brackets taped to the surroundingtiles protect them from inadvertent slips of the grinder'sblade.

3. Diagonal cuts open up the tile. With both handsfirmly holding the grinder, I carefullyplunge the blade into the tile's center and cut diagonally,then along the tile's sides. A helper holds the vacuumhose to 'catch the dusty exhaust. (Editor's note: A two-sided guard, such as the DeWalt DW4705, provides much better protection when cutting with a diamond wheel.)

4. A junky tool still has its uses. Usinga hammerand an old chiselor. putty knife, I work from the outside toward the tile's center, carefully prying out the pieces.

.I1O

FINE HOMEBUILDING

Beforestarting,I make sureto mask off any surrounding cabinetfacesor furniture. I alsousemetal angle bracketsto protect neighboring tiles from possibleovercutting (photo 2). Following the four stepsshown in the photos below, I usethe grinder to cut an X in the tile to be removed.I usea Dremel tool fitted with a small #7134diamondpoint bit (www.dremel.com)in the corners

where the grinder can't reach.Once the tile is removed,I scrapeout any remaining thinsetwith a putty knife and an old chisel, and I vacuum the substrate.I then make surethe replacementtile fits, mix a small batchof thinset,trowel it into the space,and setthe tile. Oncethe thinsethasdried.I can grout the tile' -JANE AE.N Berkerey, carif.

CONTINUED

The dust-isolation bor Sometimes I have to make a lot of dust in finished spaces---{utting tile in a kitchen, for example. In thesesituations, I control dust with a dustisolation work chamber made from a translucentplastic storage box. I cut the bottom off the storage container, then use duct tape to securea sweatshirt over the opening. The arms of the sweatshirt are the openings for my hands to reach the tools I need. Tools and a worklight passthrough the neck opening, which then is clamped shut around the power cords. A

r't

'1

Translucentstorage box with bottom removed

.'ot,i

E --i

hole in the box side acceptsthe nozzle of my shop

Corded tools are fed through sweatshirt neck opening.

vacuum. To keep dust from leaking out around the edges of the box, I affix strips of stick-on foam weatherstripping to the lip of the container. To use it,I turn on the tool and the vacuum, and look through the translucent sidesof the container to chart my progress.Be sure to empty the vacuum o[any potentially flammable contents, such as sawdust, before trying this operation. - D O N M A T H I Sv i ae m a i l

Worklight

Cutting tool

Vacuum hose

) /

Foam weatherstripping

website lately?

finehomebuilding.co The Thunton Press Inspiration ferrhands-on livingo

NO. 32 READERSERVICE 112

FINE HOMEBUILDING

techni CONTINUED

Applying latex grouVcaulk when it cametime to fill the gap betweenour tile counter and its backsplash,Ipicked up a coupleof tubesof latexgrou/caulk in a matching color. The stuff comesin big toothpaste-rypetubes, and onceit haswarmed up a bit, the grout flows pretty well----or at leastit doesuntil the tube hasbeenreducedto about one-third full. At that point, the tube becomesso small that it's hard to compressenough to squeezeout the remaining grout. To get a better grip on the diminishing tube, I turned to a couple of spring clamps.I usedone to clamp off the bottom of the rolled-up tube and the other to compressthe remaining wad of grout. I found that by varying the pressure Spring clampscoax applied by the the last bit of grout from its tube. clamps,I could regulate the flow of the grout, right down to the lastlittle bit. _ C H A R L E SM I L L E R Newtown, Conn.

Marbleceiling tiles .n' ,i f'- Str;ms'Uearing-on' ' ' '-frarnework sippon ,! :. . 2x4 frame

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