Fantastic Felted Cats: A Guide to Making Lifelike Kitten Figures (Includes Printable Template Sheets) 9780804853774, 9781462922505

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Fantastic A Guide to Making Lifelike Kitten Figures HOUSETSU SATO

T U T T L E Publishing Tokyo Rutland, Vermont Singapore

Contents Why I Wrote This Book  My Photo Gallery 

6

The Cats in My Book 

Chapter

1 

4

20

Materials and Techniques

All About Wool Felt 

22

Learning the Needle Techniques  How to Make Each Part  The Face (Ball) 

26

26

The Legs (Cylinders) 

24

28

The Ears (Square Sheet) 

29

The Tail (Narrow-tipped Cylinder)  Add Your Own Real Cat’s Fur! 

31

33

FEATURE  Getting Into Realistic Cat Figures 

Chapter

2 

36

Making a Cat—The Basics 38 42

Creating the Face  The Cat Loaf Pose 

The Sitting Upright Pose 

50 54

The Standing Pose  FEATURE

27 The Legs (Small Ovals)  28 The Thighs (Puffs)  30 Making Wool Batting  32 The Body (Bread Roll) 

The Cycle of Life 

46

Chapter

3 

Ten Realistic Cat Figures

Figure 1   Ginger Tabby in a Cat Loaf Pose 

56

60 Brown & White Tabby Cleaning Itself  62 Black Cat in Vigilant Mode  64 Black & White Cat Out on a Stroll  66 Calico Cat Ready to Play  69 White Cat Standing Tall  72 Brown & White Tabby Stretching  74 Long-haired Ragdoll Glancing Back  78

Figure 2   Gray & White Tabby Sitting Upright  Figure 3   Figure 4   Figure 5   Figure 6   Figure 7   Figure 8   Figure 9  

Figure 10  Long-haired Norwegian Forest in Low-seated Pose  FEATURE

How Real Cats and “Remembered” Ones Differ 

Chapter

4 

Additional Techniques

The Skeletal Structure of Cats 

86

Creating Realistically Colored Fur  Other Advanced Techniques  Templates 

92

A Final Note 

94

90

88

84

82

Why I Wrote This Book Cats are truly mysterious. They have always been a source of inspiration and are an eternal attraction for people with a deep love of beauty. At the same time, it is the nature of cats to develop much quicker and live shorter lives than humans. And within that short life, the time they spend as kittens is even shorter and more precious. Within two or three months, a kitten seems to have suddenly reached the size of an adult cat. I had two criteria in mind: 1) I wanted to create a cat figure that captures this short time as a kitten. 2) I wanted the figure to reflect the innocence of a kitten just arrived at its new home. And that is how I set about creating this cat figure book themed around kittens.

When it comes to making cat figures, kittens are just the right size. The head and body of an adult cat figure can get heavy, so I’ve needed to insert wire to get them to stand. With the kitten figures, though, felting the legs so they’re very firm is enough, eliminating the need for wire. I’m sure that beginners can easily make these figures too. Enjoy making them for yourself as well as giving them as gifts! Along with capturing their muscular and skeletal features that, unlike those of adult cats, are still undeveloped, try to convey their overwhelming spark of ever-expanding young life.

—Housetsu Sato

7

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

The Cats in My Book

Ginger Tabby in a Cat Loaf Pose   page 56

20

Calico Cat Ready to Play   page 69

Gray & White Tabby Sitting Upright   page 60

White Cat Standing Tall   page 72

Brown & White Tabby Cleaning Itself   page 62

Brown & White Tabby Stretching   page 74

Black Cat in Vigilant Mode   page 64

Long-haired Ragdoll Glancing Back   page 78

Black & White Cat on a Stroll   page 66

Long-haired Norwegian Forest in Low-seated Pose   page 82

Chapter

1

Materials and Techniques It’s important to know about the needles and wool felt you’ll be using when making these cat figures. This chapter introduces the basics.

NOTE: For size and thickness both imperial and metric measurements are provided. The projects in this book were conceived and executed using metric measurements, and choosing to use those measurements may yield better results. All inch measurements are approximate.

21

All About Wool Felt First let’s take a look at wool felt, the main material for the cat figures.

Main Materials

Fantastic for making any kind of shape

Wool felt is felt that has been made using sheep’s wool. Using a special needle (a felting needle) to poke the wool and make it firmer allows you to create a variety of shapes and textures. If you poke the wool a small number of times, it creates a fluffy texture, whereas the more you poke with your felting needle, the smaller and firmer the wool becomes. What’s fantastic is that it can be used to make any kind of shape, including animals, sweets, and small accessories. In this book, the cat figure parts are created using wool batting, while the fur color and texture are created using wool roving. Felt sheets are also used sometimes to give the color of the fur more expression. The cats’ eyes are the same as those used for other types of craft projects.

 Felting Wool Batting

This has a fluffy cotton consistency, so it can be shaped with just a few pokes of the needle. This is used in the section on creating parts, starting on page 26.

 Felting Wool Roving

There are many different types of roving, but in this book we use sliver, which has all the fibers aligned in one direction. It comes sold in rolls.

 Felt Sheets

This is wool that has been pressed into sheets. Just by cutting pieces and needling them into place, you can easily create a single-color coated cat, like a black or white cat. It is used on pages 62 and 64 in this book.

 Cats’ Eyes

Used for the cat figure eyes, these are available in various sizes, but in this book, 12mm eyes are used. They come in blue, yellow, gold, and silver blue.

NOTE: The wool used for the projects in this book is from Hamanaka, a brand with limited availability outside of Japan. While Hamanaka products may not be available in your area, many excellent brands can be found in your local craft and specialty yarn shops and online.

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Main Tools

Here are the tools that you will need to create the figures. You can find them in craft shops and discount department stores.

There are a number of tools that you need to make the felt cat figures. Be sure to have them ready before you start. You can find the sculpting tool at craft and art supply stores.

1 2

4

Mat 1 Felting This is a sponge mat. It’s placed

under the wool while you’re working, so that the needle goes through into it, which helps prevent the needle from breaking.

2

Craft Scissors Use these for making small detailed cuts, like around the cat figure’s eyes and for trimming excess wool.

3 Scissors Use these for cutting wool and

the felt sheets. Keep a pair for this purpose only and use separate scissors to cut paper.

5 6 7

Tool (Hook) 4 Sculpting This tool has a metal claw-like hook at the end of a slender handle. It is used to pick at the wool to give the fur realistic texture.

8

3

9

Needle 7 Felting This needle has tiny jagged barbs at

the tip that intertwine the fibers as you poke the wool. As you continue, the wool becomes felted.

Marker Pen Point Felting Needle 8 Water-erasable 5Double This is a craft pen used for marking This tool is made by wrapping together two felting needles with bandage tape. The wool can be needled at twice the usual speed. Special needle holders are also sold, as shown below, that can be used instead of tape.

Needle (Ultra Fine) 6 Felting This has a much finer tip than an

ordinary needle, so it’s handy for working detailed areas. The needle can break easily, so take care.

out fabric. It is used here for marking the areas of color on the wool batting.

and Pliers 9 Nippers The cats’ eyes used in this book have

stems at the back. The stems are not needed for making the cat figures, so use the nippers or pliers to cut them off.

Handy Tools to Have Mat Cover This a cover that is placed on top of the felting mat. This is good to use when working with white wool and batting as you can see the color clearly.

Permanent Fabric Marker These are markers that add color to fabric. They are helpful when combining wools isn’t a sufficient means of getting the right tone.

Needle Holder This a special case that holds two needles together. (Ultra fine needles)

※ All the materials and tools (except the scissors, sculpting tool, and water-erasable marker pen) are available through Hamanaka.

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Learning the Needle Techniques You need to know the basics on how to use a felting needle to be able to make cute figures. How to Hold the Needle

Hold the needle between your thumb and middle finger

Correct Way to Hold The top part of the felting needle is slightly bent. This part is called the crank. It stops the needle from going right down into the wool when you poke. The center part of the needle (this is where you grip) is called the shank, and then at the bottom is the tip of the needle. It’s important to hold the needle properly. Pinch the needle between your thumb and middle fingers and gently align the first joint of your index finger to the crank or bent part of the needle. This way you can Try to hold the needle lightly and not use too much force. Be careful not to skillfully poke the wool. touch the barbs at the tip. NOTE: The barbs on the tip are very sharp. Always use caution, keep your fingers clear, and keep the needles out of the reach of children.

How NOT to Hold the Needle Pencil

As soon as you poke, the needle can slip out of your hand, so don’t use a pencil hold.

Pinch

Don’t hold just the crank of the needle. It’s an unsteady hold that makes it difficult to push the needle in.

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Sewing Needle

A sewing needle position isn’t suitable for continuously poking the wool.

Syringe

This hold involves moving your whole wrist and you can’t push the needle in evenly.

Fist

Grasping the whole needle causes it to stick into your palm and hurt you.

Clench

With this hold, you can push too hard and easily break the needle. It is also tiring as it involves moving your whole hand.

How to Use the Needle

Always pull the needle out at the same angle at which you inserted it

It doesn’t matter which angle you use to poke the needle. You can go in from the top, sideways, or diagonally. The most important point is to always pull the needle out at the same angle that you inserted it. Don’t slant the needle while it is in the wool and don’t twist the needle around as you can break the needle.

Correct Use Pull the needle straight out at the same angle at which you inserted it. When poking in, try to go right through into the felting mat underneath.

How NOT to Use the Needle Moving Mid-poke

Scooping Up Don’t change the angle of the needle while it’s in the wool. Doing that can break the needle.

Gathering

Don’t lift up the wool as if you’re sewing. The wool won’t become felted.

Twisting Don’t gather the wool in with the needle tip. It damages the wool and can break the needle.

Too Close

If the fingers that are holding the wool are too close to the needle, you might accidentally jab them. If you do have to work close to your fingers, take extra care.

Crossed Hands

If you’re concentrating too hard, your hands might cross over each other. This makes it difficult to see the area that you’re working.

Don’t twist the needle around while it’s in the wool. The needle may break off inside.

In the Air

As well as being unstable, the needle might go through the wool and you might injure yourself.

25

How to Make Each Part Here we learn about how to make the basic parts—the face, head, and legs.

The Face (Ball) Making a Round Ball The base for the cat figure’s head is a round ball. Use the wool batting to make a sphere. It should be 2” (5 cm) in diameter. You will be adding a nose, mouth, and other parts later, as well as making holes for the eyes, so the head needs to be appropriately soft yet firm. Poke the needle deep into the ball to firm up the center. Focus on making a nice round ball.

Making a Ball

a 4” x 8” (10 cm x 20 cm) 1 Prepare piece of wool batting.

in front of you, roll up the 2 Starting wool batting.

you’ve finished, fold in the 3 When right end of the roll.

fold the left end over too. 4 Then Hold the right end from step 3

is how it looks when step 4 is 5 This completed.

it all over to firm it up and 6 Poke form a ball. Needle it so the surface

in place with your hand, so it doesn’t slip.

26

is smooth, making sure in particular to work the areas where the folds can be seen.

The Body (Bread Roll) The Basic Body for All the Cats This slightly misshapen bread roll-like oval, with one end narrower than the other, is the cat’s body. The key is to add extra wool batting around the waist area to give it volume. This represents the cat’s lower rounded half. Try not to firm up the body too much as it can get too heavy for the legs to support it. If you’re making the cat loaf pose, though, it’s fine to give it a little more firmness.

Head

Tail

A rounded form that looks cat-like.

Making a Bread Roll

a 8” x 16” (20 cm x 40 cm) 1 Prepare piece of wool batting (twice the size of the ball).

in front of you, roll up the 2 Starting wool batting. Roll it up softly so it is not too stiff.

it all over to gently bring it 3 Poke together.

Top Felted fold from above.

Side in the right end. Pressing 4 Fold down with your left index finger makes this easier.

this fold with the needle to 5 Poke fix it into place. Work it so you can’t

Felted fold from the side. The right end where it’s folded is more rounded.

see the fold anymore.

Top Completed form from above, rounded out at the sides.

Side an appropriate amount of 6 Add batting toward the tail end to

give the waist area volume. The underneath should be flat, so it’s fine not to add any there.

the batting to fix it into place 7 Poke and work it so that you’re blending

You can see from the side how it rises from the waist to the tail end.

it in (see page 31).

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The Legs (Cylinders) Important Parts to Support the Body All the cat figures need four legs except for the cat loaf pose. Make cylinders that can then be bent into position. Remember to form them as sturdily as possible as they need to support the body. If you feel the balance is out when you join the parts, try adding more batting.

This cylinder can be bent to create various leg positions.

Making a Cylinder

a 6” x 6” (15 cm x 15 cm) 1 Prepare piece of wool batting and starting from in front of you, roll it up.

it a lot tighter than you did for 2 Roll the head and body parts.

and firm it into a cylinder 3 Poke shape. The batting may stick out

The Legs (Small Ovals)

Meow! Now my hind paws, please!

Flat Oval Shapes These are used for the cat figure in sitting pose and form the hind legs folded under the cat’s body. Aim to make them flat and oval. Unlike the cylinder above, these have very little thickness.

Making Small Ovals

a small piece of wool batting 1 Take (about ⅞” x 1⅝” (2 cm x 4 cm) and

squish it with your fingers into an oval shape. You want it to be about ¼” (5 mm) in thickness.

28

at the ends, so be sure to neaten it carefully.

the oval you made in step 1 2 Poke with a needle to firm it up.

How to Make Each Part

The Ears (Square Sheet) A Thin Sheet The parts for the left and right ears are made from a thin square sheet. This sheet is cut diagonally to create two triangles. Even though these ears are thin, they have a solid texture. Build up the density of the batting while working to get a thickness of about 1/ –1/ ” (2–3mm). Don’t make the pieces too 16 8 stiff as you’ll need to bend them later. One sheet makes both the left and right ears.

Making a Square Sheet

a 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) 1 Prepare piece of wool batting.

2 Fold it half away from you.

fold it in half again. Have the 3 Then open ends of the first fold toward

the side it should look like it’s 4 From folded in four.

fold in the left and right edges 5 Now to the center.

6 In total, it’s folded eight times.

it down with your hand so that 7 Hold it doesn’t come apart.

and firm it up into a square. 8 Poke Start from around the edges.

working the square until it is 9 Keep / – / ” (2–3mm) thick.

you and fold back.

1

16

1

8

29

The Thighs (Puffs) A Powder Puff Extra parts need to be added to the body to express the roundness of the cat’s thighs. This is what we are making here. It looks very like a powder puff. As it will be attached to the body, it needs to be fluffy and not so firm. You will need to make two of these for one cat. Give it a soft and fluffy finish.

How to Make a Puff

a small handful of wool 1 Prepare batting.

the batting in from the 2 Gather edges to the center.

it all into the center to make 3 Bring a ball.

is what it should look like 4 This when all gathered in. It’s like a

and firm up the batting while 5 Poke holding it in place with one hand in

it from the sides makes 6 Working forming a ball easier.

round Chinese dumpling.

I need strong thighs. Meow!

30

the center.

How to Make Each Part

The Tail (Narrow-tipped Cylinder) Any Shape is Fine Cats’ tails come in many shapes and sizes from long to stumpy, bobbed and kinked. Here we’ll learn how to make a standardlength tail, but it’s fine to change the size, shape, and thickness so it matches that of your pet cat. The kinked tail can be created by bending the cylinder in the same way as the front paw.

A tail with a narrow tip

Making a Narrow-tipped Cylinder

up a 4” x 4” (10 cm x 10 cm) 1 Roll piece of wool batting.

2 Poke the roll in step 1 to firm it up.

batting may stick out at the 3 The ends, so be sure to neaten it carefully.

A Tip! Narrow it by hand particularly on poking the 4 Focus tail tip to make it narrower.

Make the cylinder first by poking and firming it up with a needle, then use your hands to roll the tip to narrow it. This takes less time and creates a beautiful form.

What is Meant by Blending? The term “blending” appears in the explanation on how to make the cat figures. This basically means to add extra batting to the places where parts are joined together. As you poke and firm up that extra batting, it becomes integrated into the surrounding parts. This is what is referred to as blending. You use this technique when you want to hide and reinforce joins. 31

Making Wool Batting Wool batts are created by splitting up felting wool roving, which has fibers all running in one direction, and making it so that the fibers run in various directions. This is known as a batt. You use this to create the fur on the cat’s face and other parts. Here is an easy way to make a wool batt.

a small amount of felting 1 Take wool roving.

the roving in half lengthwise, 2 Pull straight to the sides, as shown.

those two halves from step 2 3 Lay across each other in a cross shape

step 2, pulling the roving 4 Repeat straight to the sides again to make

the halves completely. 5 Separate The way to do this is by pulling the

step 3 by laying those 6 Repeat two halves across each other in a

again, pull the roving straight 7 Once to the sides smoothly and gently

separate them. Do 8 Completely this several more times so that

you have a completed wool 9 Here batt.

two halves.

to make two halves.

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fibers apart smoothly and gently in one go without using any force.

the direction of the fibers run in all directions.

cross shape.

Add Your Own Real Cat’s Fur Adding your pet cat’s fur makes your cat figure truly unique. It gives an affectionate touch.

Preparing Soak the fur to clean it and the Cat let it dry naturally. Fur Make your very own unique cat figure using your beloved cat’s real fur. I’m sure may cat owners would love to do this. While real cat fur is relatively clean, it can have dander and dust in it. It’s a good idea to gently soak it in a solution of water and hand soap or detergent.

Prepare a bowl and sieve. The sieve should have small holes to stop the fur falling through.

Pet cat fur. Best taken by brushing.

Washing the Cat Fur

up the fur and Put warm water into the put the sieve into 1 Loosen 3 Then remove any dust or dander. 2 bowl and put the cat fur the water. Press the fur

a tiny amount 4 Add of hand soap (dish or

swish the fur to finished, lift the 5 Gently 6 When wash it. Use a light hand sieve to drain the water

it air dry com­pletely. 8 Let Store the dried fur in a

into the sieve.

and be very gentle so as not to damage the hair.

off. You can repeat the process in a bowl of clear water to rinse.

down into the water to completely submerge it.

the fur out, taking 7 Lay care not to layer it, on

a bamboo roll mat or similar well-ventilated flat space.

laundry detergent is also fine).

zipper storage bag.

33

Adding Your Cat’s Fur When the cat fur is ready, add it to your cat figure. It would be difficult to make a whole figure out of real fur, so make it easy by creating a wool felt base figure and add the cat fur in certain areas.

Here cat fur has been added to the head and back. It has a different texture to wool.

ΠBlack and White Cats

A black & white cat with real black fur!

you have a completed cat fur 3 Here batt. The fur runs in all directions.

a small amount of cat fur and 1 Take arrange it so it runs in one direction.

it straight sideways, in the 2 Pull same way that you make a wool

the cat fur where you’d like 4 Place to use it and poke it into place with

small amounts at a time 5 Use when adding it to the face and

the needle. It should felt like wool.

batt. Do this several times to make a batt of cat fur.

head areas.

Varying Shades of Cat Fur Even if you use a piece of black or brown fur, the shades vary. Black in particular has white hairs mixed in, so it can look gray. This is your pet cat’s personal touch.

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Black

Light Brown

Brown

White

Add Your Own Real Cat’s Fur

 Calico Cats

an appropriate amount of cat 1 Take fur to use.

Add brown cat fur to make a calico cat!

2 Make a batt of cat fur. A gingery-brown patch of cat fur on the leg!

the cat fur where you’d like 3 Place to use it.

the cat fur to fix it into place. 4 Poke If the cat fur sticks out at the

Ask o! Mr. Sat

edges, trim it with scissors and neaten the top.

Q&A on Cat Fur

Should I wash the cat fur? If you like the fur unwashed, it’s fine to leave it that way. There are cat owners who like to keep the scent of their cat. However, you need to keep in mind some people have cat allergies. If you exhibit your work in public, you’ll need to take precautions like putting the figure inside a clear display case.

Is it okay to use fur from several cats on one figure? It’s no problem to use a mix of fur. If you have more than one cat, it can be interesting to combine their fur. Your cats may give the figure a sniff and pull a bemused face!

Can I use short cat fur to make a long-haired cat? If you combine the fur with wool, it can add length, but there’s a limit to what you can do. It’s better not to try.

Can I use fur that’s been cut? If it’s fur that’s been cut from a long-haired cat, that’s fine. However, fur cut from a short-haired cat will be too short to use. Using fur that’s been obtained naturally through brushing is best.

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Feature Getting Into Realistic Cat Figures I was still in my teens when I started getting vague ideas about felt cat figures. I was in my local department store one day and I spotted an imported realistic-looking dog figure. I remember being surprised and impressed by how elaborately made it was. I thought that if there was this kind of realistic dog figure, then there must be a similar cat figure as well, but hard as I searched, I couldn’t find one. Puzzled by this, I asked my friends who loved cats and plush dolls if they knew where realistic cat figures were sold. They just laughed and said it was impossible to make a realistic cat figure. But the word “impossible” stuck with me, as it didn’t feel right. Eventually, through a number of connections, I was lucky enough to be able to start making animals using various materials, and no matter what other animals I made, I always tried to make cats. At the time, no one was making realistic cat figures, so I was fumbling around and getting frustrated, trying to achieve this.

36

At times, I found myself thinking that maybe it really is impossible to make a realistic cat figure and wanting to give up. But even more, I wanted to put in the time to gradually improve my cat figure-making skills and ultimately make it my lifework. So every day, as soon as I came home from work, I would continue to create cats. As a result, even though they’re not the real thing, I was eventually able to make very cat-like figures and began introducing them on my own website. Later, while carrying on working and making cat figures, I witnessed a local stray cat, who had been my one and only source of love and comfort, being struck and killed by a car. This loss prompted me to think how I could add even more bright life to my pieces. Now when I think about it, I believe that stray cat lost its life in order to make me aware of life’s spark. I am here now because of that little cat, and sometimes I look up at the sky and feel a deep gratitude for that.

Chapter

2

Making a Cat— The Basics Once you have made each part, it’s time to create your cat. Put together the parts, add an expressive face, and make a pose either sitting, standing, or paws tucked in like a cat loaf. The cat introduced here forms the base for making even more realistic cats.

Creating the Face This is the basic way to make the head for all the cats. Learn how to make this and you can begin to give your cat different expressions too.

Make me look good!

Œ Create the Outline Attach a rectangle to a ball to make the rough outline of a cat head. a piece of wool batting into 1 Roll a ball that measures 1¾“–2“

squeeze the ball in your 2 Gently hand to flatten one side. Rub it a bit

up the wool batting into a 4 Roll cone-like shape.

fold and overlap the left and 5 Now right ends. Make it into a rectangle

(4.5–5 cm) in diameter. ※ Making a Round Ball → page 26

make the part for the nose, 3 Now mouth, and chin. Using the photo for reference, take an appropriate amount of wool batting.

with your thumb to help flatten it.

as shown above.

Check the positioning

up the 6 Line rectangle from

step 5 along the center line of the head.

38

the rectangle to attach it to 7 Poke the ball. Start from the top area.

turning the ball as you poke 8 Keep it all over. Work all around the

you continue poking, the 9 Asrectangle will get smaller. Make

edges so they’re tucked in.

sure to carefully needle the whole area.

This is the ideal felted shape.

 Make the Eyes, Nose, and Mouth Sculpt a cross into the rectangle and suddenly you have a nose and mouth!

form the nose, 1-2 Tomouth, and chin, you

need to sculpt the wool batting. First, lightly poke the rectangle to create the four dividing lines.

Aim for this shape

the ball as you work and make 4 Turn sure that all four edges are pushed

poke along those lines, 3 Then pushing down the batting, and

focusing especially on the corners.

down. Work on sculpting out a cross. Aim for a long nose, large left and right sections, and a slightly smaller chin.

The sculpting when completed

5

Create a Y-shaped line in the center between the nose and mouth. First use the needle to lightly poke where the line goes.

6

Then poke to create a clear Y-shaped line. 39

make a soft-angled 7 Next, inverted V shape to

differentiate between the mouth and chin. First use the needle to lightly poke where the line goes.

holes for the eyes above the 8 Make mouth area. First, press down a

circle approximately ½” (12 mm) in diameter on one side. Then do the same on the other side.

The finished base for the face. Pay attention to the balance of the nose, mouth, and chin. Use the shape in the photo for reference.

the center of the circles 9 Make deeper. Aim for about ⅜” (1 cm) deep.

The completed eye sockets. Make sure to sculpt deep holes. If you’re concerned about the nose line, add extra wool batting to shape it up.

Ž I nsert the Eyes Here we use craft store cats’ eyes. Just stick them in place with craft glue!

now going to put eyes in the 1 You’re holes you made in the last section. We use ½” (12 mm) cat’s eyes here.

craft glue to the backs of the 3 Apply eyes. Aim for the center so the glue won’t overflow from the eyes when they are placed.

40

stems on the back of the eyes 2 The are not needed, so use nippers to cut them off.

tapered pliers to 4 Use place the eyes. Be careful to position them so the pupils are straight.

Creating the Face

 Attach the Ears This is the standard way to attach the cat ears. Take care with the positioning.

1

Use a piece of wool batting to make a thin square that measures 1⅝” x 1⅜” (4 cm x 3.5 cm). Cut it diagonally with scissors to make two triangles. ※ see Making the Ears on page 29

imagine the head split into 2 Now three parts and locate the right

edge of the left third. The right edge of the ear will be one eye’s diameter up from the top of the actual eye. The left edge of the ear will be two eyes’ diameter across from the outer corner of the actual eye.

the front of the ear at do the same at the back of 4 Then 3 Poke the base into the head. the ear base.

the same steps for the 5 Follow other ear.

The ears in place. You can clearly see the kitten’s innocence.

wool batting to where the 6 Add front of the ears join the head.

All done!

the added wool batting to 7 Poke blend it in.

same at the back of the 8 Doear the base, making it neat. 41

The Cat Loaf Pose This is a cat’s rightful pose, with all four legs curled up underneath it, which is affectionately known as the cat loaf. Here is a very easy way to make this pose.

I do like this pose a lot!

The Parts You Need ●  Face (→ page 38) ●  Body (→ page 27)  Length 5½” (14 cm), front width 2” (5 cm),   Back width 2⅜” (6 cm) ●  2 thigh parts (→ page 30)   Diameter 2” (5 cm)

It’s important to make the body nice and firm!

ΠSculpt the Legs The legs for the cat loaf pose are sculpted out of the body. Position the lines carefully!

the vertical line for the elbow. 3 Mark The line where the rear end begins to fill out is a good spot.

42

the body with wool batting. 1 Make Felt it so that it is firm.

use the needle to lightly 2 Then poke a line ⅔rds of the way down

to create the line of the front leg. Start from the front of the body and work around to the left side (when looking down from above).

a line at the front 4 Put of the body where the front legs meet.

add the front leg line on the opposite 5 Now side to that in step 2 (the photo shows the

the same as step 3 and make a line for the 6 Doelbow. Match it with the place where the rear

a vertical line running down from the 7 Mark center of the line at the front.

8 Run the line from step 7 down under the body.

the photo for reference, mark the 9 Using curved lines of the front paws.

the front legs, following the lines you 10 Sculpt marked in steps 7–9. As you poke outside

right side when looking down from the top). The height is the same— ⅔rds from the top.

both the left and right 11 Sculpt sides so they are clearly visible.

end fills out.

the lines, that part of the body will firm up, making the front legs stand out clearer.

the front of the body too. 12 Sculpt Aim for a cat-like roundness.

sculpting looks like this, 13 Ifit’syour fine.

43

sculpt the back legs in the 14 Now body, as shown here.

Front

Side

You can see how the cat is crouching.

Here the front and back legs are complete. This is what it looks like from the side.

 Make the Thighs Cats have surprisingly plump thighs that are added as separate parts! two puffs for the thighs. 1 Prepare ※ s ee Making the Thighs on page 30

a little extra wool 3 Add batting to blend in the parts and hide where they join the body.

the thighs to attach them 2 Poke to the body, aligning them with

the rear end of the body. Begin by poking around the edges and then across the thigh parts entirely.

4 Poke the batting to blend it in.

Ž Attach the Head The positioning of the head is important. Check the balance carefully. the head, so that the face is 1 Attach looking forward. 44

view. The head’s center of 2 Side balance should match that of the

body. If it’s too far forward or too far back, it won’t sit correctly. Poke where the head and body meet to join them together.

The Cat Loaf Pose

you’ve fixed the head in place, 3 Once add batting to the back of the neck and blend it in.

the batting to fix 5 Poke it in place and then

batting to the front of 4 Add the neck as well.

All done!

neaten it.

45

Please make me look cool!

The Sitting Upright Pose This is the basic front-facing, sitting upright pose. You can use this pose to create a cat cleaning itself or raising its front paw.

The Parts You Need ● Face (→ page 38) ● Body (→ page 27) Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm) ● 2 front legs (→ page 28) Length 4” (10 cm ), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm ) ● 2 back legs (→ page 28) Length 1⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 thigh parts (→ page 30) Diameter 2” (5 cm)

Watch the balance of the head and body!

Œ Bend the Body Add a gentle bend to the body to accentuate the line of the back. the body ⅓ of the way down 1 Bend from the neck area. This is just at the point where the body fills out.

the bent body to firm 3 Poke it up. Start needling from underneath, then poke all over to set the shape.

46

your thumb as shown 2 Use to make a slight bend in the body. We’re making a regular seated pose, so don’t bend it too much.

The completed body. You can see the cat’s rounded back.

 Attach the Front Legs The front legs need to be joined neatly against the body. Be sure to make them a suitable length.

two front legs. 1 Prepare ※ see Making The Legs on page 28

both legs at right angles ⅜” 2 Bend (1 cm) from the end on one side

and poke them to firm them into shape. To do this, first poke them on the inside part of the bend and then all over.

3

Then join the front legs to the body. Make sure that the tops of the front legs are closely touching where the body bends forward, as shown.

5

the front legs into place. 4 Poke Begin by needling the top part where they touch the body.

an appropriate amount of 6 Add batting to the tops of the legs.

Poke the area where the legs and body meet so they are joined together. The needle should go through the legs into the body.

poke the batting that you 7 Now added so that you can no longer see the join. First, poke the edges and then needle all over. Keep working the area so that the batting is blended in.

The batting has been completely blended in.

47

Ž Attach the Back Legs The back legs are attached on the underside of the body. two back legs. Try to shape 1 Prepare them like small flat ovals. ※ see Making The Legs on page 28

one leg at a time to fix them 3 Poke into place. Make sure the needle

goes through the first leg into the body.

poke the area where that leg 4 Then touches the body. Do the same with the other leg.

2 Attach the back legs under the body.

All four legs have been attached.

 Attach the Thighs Attaching thigh parts to the body gives the cat a nice roundness.

we attach the thighs. 1 Here The key point is to have them covering the back legs.

the thigh parts in step 1 to fix a bit of batting into the joins 2 Poke 3 Blend them in place. of the thigh parts. Do the same on both the left and right side.

48

They’ve become round, cat-like thighs.

The Sitting Upright Pose

 Attach the Head This is where you need to strike a very good balance with the body. The head should sit centered on the shoulders. the head to attach it to the 2 Poke body. Focus on working the join

where to place the head. Here 1 Decide the cat will be looking straight ahead.

and fixing it well in place.

Match the center of balance as you place the head on the shoulders.

3 Poke the entire neck area.

an appropriate amount of 4 Add batting to the neck.

poke the batting to blend it 5 Then into the surrounding area.

‘ Attach the Tail The tail isn’t listed in the parts you need. Feel free to make one in the length you like.

we’ll attach the tail. This 1 Here one is a straight tail measuring 4” (10 cm).

the tail at the 2 Position center point between

the two back legs and poke the area where it touches the body.

an appropriate amount of batting to the 3 Add underside of the tail and poke it so you can no

All done!

longer see the join.

49

The Standing Pose This standing cat is fun even for beginners to make. It can be transformed so it looks like it’s walking or running!

You’ll be a cat expert after this!

The Parts You Need ● Face (→ page 38) ● Body (→ page 27) Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm) ● 2 front legs (→ page 28) Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 back legs (→ page 28) Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 thigh parts (→ page 30) Diameter 2” (5 cm)

Make my legs firm!

ΠMake the Back Legs The bend of the heels is an important point. We will attach the thighs later to add volume.

the back legs and bend each 1 Prepare of them ⅜” (1 cm) from one end. Make these back legs very firm.

the bends in the legs from 2 Poke step 1 to shape them. Begin by

poking the inside of the bend and then needle all over.

3

Make the heels for the back legs. Working 1⅝” (4 cm) from the first bends in the legs, make another right angle bend in each leg and poke it firm.

50

add the thighs. Place the thigh 4 Now part ⅞” (2 cm) above the bend for the heel. This is the left leg. Alter it to the opposite direction and it becomes the right leg.

the thigh part added in step 5 Poke 4. The needle should go through the thigh into the leg.

down with 6 Ityourhelpsindexif youandpress middle fingers, as

shown. Be sure to felt the thigh and back leg so they are very firm.

the thigh so that it has a 7 Work triangular shape. This is easier to do if you poke the needle from the side.

poking the join of the 8 Keep thigh and back leg, so that it is very firm. Now do the same to make the leg for the opposite side.

The two back legs are complete. Be careful not to make them facing the same direction.

 Make the Front Legs Make the joints like for the back legs. Make sure the direction of each leg is different.

the two front leg parts. 1 Prepare Make them firm. Make a right angle bend ⅜” (1 cm) from one end and poke it firmly into shape.

an appropriate amount of 3 Add batting so that it faces into the body

and poke it firm. This is the left leg. Alter it to the opposite direction and it becomes the right leg.

it like the back leg 4 Poke so that has a triangular

shape. Now do the same to make the leg for the opposite side.

midway along the leg, 2 Atmakejustaabove 45° bend. This is the elbow of the front leg. Once you have determined the angle, poke it to firm it into shape.

The complete left and right front legs. Be careful not to make them facing the same direction.

51

Ž Join the Legs and Body

Tip

The cat will stand well if the legs are positioned correctly. Pay close attention to the balance.

1

First join the front legs to the body. Using the photo for reference, decide where the front legs will go.

The cat has a slightly crouched look with the elbows of the front legs bending inward. The front legs should not stand forward of the body. Create a nice line by matching the bend of the elbow with the underside of the body.

3

Next decide where to place the back legs. Make sure that the weight of the body is resting on the heel. Refer the photo for the position.

you decide on the position, 2 Once poke the front legs into place. Start from around the edges and then poke all over.

4

Once you decide on the position, poke the back legs into place. Start from around the edges and then poke all over.

an appropriate amount of 5 Add batting to the back leg joins and poke it to blend it into the surrounding area.

52

the front leg joins 6 Doandtheblendsametheforbatting into place. Do this for both the left and right legs.

The four legs fixed in place. If they are correctly positioned and firm, the cat should stand.

All four legs felted in place. The cat’s body is now completed.

The Standing Pose

 Attach the Head Add a neck to give the cat a supple look.

the head and neck. Poke so 3 Join that the needle goes through the neck into the head.

enough wool batting to circle 1 Take once around the head.

the batting in step 1 like a 2 Round cake roll. This will form the neck.

the head and neck on the 4 Position body, paying careful attention to

join them together. Poke so 5 Then that the needle goes through the

one is a straight tail measuring 1 This 4” (10 cm). Position it so that it runs

the tail to the body. Poke so 2 Join that the needle goes through the

the center of balance.

neck into the body.

 Attach the Tail The tail isn’t listed in the parts you need. Feel free to make one in the length you like.

parallel with the line of the back.

Tips

Don’t place the tail above the hips. The cat won’t stand if you do this. First attach it at the back, then bend it upward.

tail into the body.

All done!

Don’t place the tail lower down the rear, which is unnaturally low. Position the tail so that it runs parallel with the line of the back.

53

Feature The Cycle of Life The photo above is of my art piece titled Sei-Ou-Bo, which I displayed as part of the 25th Heisen Exhibition at The National Art Center, Tokyo. The description explains that this depicts a kitten nestling close to a cat that has gone to heaven, while another cat bids it a final farewell. Sei-Ou-Bo, or birth, vigor, and the grave, is a concept often found in Eastern philosophy. Everything in this world has a beginning, a prime, and a demise. These form a constantly flowing equilateral triangular cycle. In short, beginnings and endings are connected. So death does not mean simply an ending, and is not only something sad. In this work, I wished to convey three stages of life. Sei, or birth, represents the new life of a kitten, Ou, or vigor is the flourishing life of an adult cat, and Bo, or the grave, is the end of the cat’s life. My idea was to express the light of each life by creating a contrast between the three stages. The one I struggled with most was expressing a life at its end. Up until that point, I had been pursuing life being fully 54

lived and focusing on conveying that bright spark of light in my work. Maybe because of this, the dying cat had remnants of this lively spark too. It became just a cat lying playfully on its side. I wondered how to erase this light and started working hard to create a piece without it. But as I did this, instead of being a cat figure, it just became a stuffed toy!!! There was no point in having an inorganic toy lying on its side either. So I reworked certain parts to convey a balance of tension and relaxation, while reincorporating tiny sparks of life. The final hurdle was the facial expression. Adding a look of suffering through illness or infirmity would be too much detail. After much consideration, I decided on a peaceful face, giving a feeling of departure. I had been seeking how to convey the light of life for so long, I couldn’t have imagined I would come to express the ending of that light. What an intense, profound world cat figure making is! It may be like a maze without an exit, but I think this is why I can spend my life working on it. That is what I have come to think these days.

Chapter

3

Ten Realistic Cat Figures In this chapter, we’ll learn how to make the ten cat figures that appear in the gallery at the front of this book. By using the sitting upright and standing poses introduced in Chapter 2, you can easily make a calico cat rolling over ready to play or a brown and white tabby cat having a stretch.

NOTE: The wool used for the projects in these pages is from Hamanaka, a brand with limited availability outside of Japan. The names and numbers noted in the materials sections (What You’ll Need) correspond to the blends and colors of this brand. Although Hamanaka products may not be available in your area, many excellent brands can be found in craft and specialty yarn shops and online. Your choices are virtually limitless! The projects in these pages were conceived and executed using metric measurements. All inch measurements are approximate. Using metrics if possible may yield finer results. 55

Figure

1

Ginger Tabby in a Cat Loaf Pose The cat loaf is a very unique cat pose. Here we’ll make a loveable ginger tabby cat using the cat from page 42. It has a beautiful rounded form.

Parts You’ll Need Base

● Face

Coat

●B  ody Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

●W  ool roving Natural Blend (No. 832) 30g (1 ounce)

●W  ool roving Natural Blend (No. 804) as needed

Instructions

the cat loaf base following the 1 Make instructions from page 42 onward.

56

orange roving will form the fur. 2 The Cut it so that it’s the same length as the body. This doesn’t include the front chest area.

the roving starting from the 3 Poke front.

same on both sides. The 5 Dorovingtheshould cover the back a bit

and blend in the places where 6 Poke the roving meets on the back and

roving on the front chest and 7 Place poke it into place at the base of the

the stretched out roving to 8 Poke fix it into place. The inset photo

a piece of roving to the length 9 Cut of the underside (the leg area).

the roving from step 9 and 10 Insert poke it into place. Make sure

the side roving over the 11 Poke roving on the base so it overlaps.

a small amount of wool 12 Take roving and poke it onto one cheek.

same on the other cheek 13 Doandtheacross the forehead. The

two wool batts, as shown 14 Make on page 32. Then gently poke

the wool batt sheet in 15 Place front of the ear.

out the side roving and 4 Stretch pull it up onto the back.

like a corn cob husk.

at the rear. The inset photo at top left shows how it should look.

Tip

neck. Then stretch it out so it flows along the sides. This gives the cat’s coat a realistic texture.

to bring out the shape of the sculpted legs.

inset photo at top right shows how the cheeks and forehead should look when finished.

at top right shows the completed piece up to this point.

This creates a neat join.

each batt on a felting mat to make square sheets. The inset photo at top right shows a completed sheet.

The roving should flow sideways.

57

Tip

the outside edge that 16 Fold sticks out over the temple

the inside edge sticking out 17 Fold the other way over the forehead

the wrapped sheet into 18 Poke place.

top part of the sheet will be 19 The sticking up. Fold this behind the

this fold to fix it into place. 20 Poke The ear is now complete. Do

three wool batts. You don’t 21 Make need to make them into sheets.

poking the batt from 22 Continue step 21, being careful to check

a wool batt on one of the line for the mouth can easily 24 Place 23 The eyes and poke it while bringing become hidden, so take extra

a wool batt on the other 25 Place eye and poke it while bringing

slits in the roving over the 26 Cut eyes.

behind the ear.

ear as well.

the sculpted nose and eye areas.

out the outline.

58

behind the ear. This forms a triangle around the ear.

the same for the other ear.

care there. The inset photo at top left is what you are aiming for.

Place one around the mouth and poke it.

out the outline.

the roving that you cut 27 Poke open in step 26 down into the edges of the eye.

Ginger Tabby Cat in a Cat Loaf Pose

an appropriate amount 28 Take of taupe roving to add tabby

cat stripes to the center of the back. First, poke one strip along from the center of the back running down toward the rear.

a few small wool batts, 31 Make just enough to create the pattern you want.

excess unpoked roving will 34 The rise straight up.

poke one more strip from 29 Next, the neck running to the center of the back. It will about halfcover the first strip. This shows the texture of the cat’s coat.

the wool batts where you 32 Place want to create the pattern.

the tabby cat stripes using 30 Make interlocking flocking (page 89).

First, use the same roving as in step 28 and make some wool batts. Refer to page 32 on how to make a wool batt.

the batts just in the center 33 Poke to fix them in place. It should form thin lines.

the raised roving with scissors. 35 Cut The tabby cat stripes are complete.

Am I a bit of a philosopher?

a sculpting tool to pick at the base 36 Use roving and tabby cat stripes to create a neat texture.

59

Figure

2

Gray & White Tabby Sitting Upright Cats often sit serenely. Here we’ll make a gray and whitecoated cat in this pose. See page 46 for how to make the sitting cat base. You can create a cat raising its front paw too.

Parts You’ll Need ● Face

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

Base ● 2 back legs Length 1 ⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm)

Coat

● Tail Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm)

● Wool roving—Mix (No. 210) 30g (1 ounce)

● Wool roving—Solid (No. 9) as needed

Instructions

the sitting upright pose 1 Make following the instructions from

page 46 onward. Draw a line where you want to add the pattern using a water-erasable marker pen.

60

the gray roving along that 2 Place line and then poke the roving, starting from the top.

can cut any excess roving with 3 You scissors. Poke the edges of the cut roving to neaten them.

Tip

the same color roving to make 4 Use a wool batt.

one side of the wool batt to 5 Fold make a straight edge, position it

7

8

Poke the excess roving down into the edge of the eye.

on one side of the head and poke it in place.

Make a wool batt sheet and fold it round one ear. (See step 14 on page 57 and onward for how to make a sheet and cover the ear)

an opening where it covers 6 Cut the eye.

an appropriate amount of 9 Take black roving to use for the tabby

cat stripes and poke one strip running from the center of the back to the rear. Next, poke one more strip from the neck running to the center of the back.

The key to my eyes is on page 74 ♪ the same color roving as in 10 Use step 9 to make some small wool batts. Just make enough to create the pattern you want.

the tabby cat stripes using 11 Make interlocking flocking (page 89). Place the wool batts where you want to create the pattern and poke them just in the center.

Tip

12

The excess unpoked roving will rise straight up and you can cut it with scissors.

the tabby cat stripes are 13 Here complete. You can change the

position and length of the stripes as you like. Once you have finished adding the pattern, use a sculpting tool to give it texture.

61

Figure

3

Brown & White Tabby Cleaning Itself Anyone would fall in love with this cat licking its paw. Here we’ll make a cat with front leg raised, cleaning itself. You can easily make a speckled pattern using felt sheet.

Parts You’ll Need ● Face

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

Base ● 2 back legs Length 1⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm)

Coat

● Felt Sheet (No.204) L-size 1 piece

● Tail Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Wool roving—Solid (No. 9) as needed

● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm)

Instructions

the sitting upright pose following 1 Make the instructions from page 46 onward. When you make the face, give it a pleasant expression with eyes slightly closed. See page 74 for how to create the closed eyes. Draw a line where you want to add the pattern using a watererasable marker pen.

62

Tip

the felt sheet and lightly 2 Position poke it.

the sheet along the marked line. 3 Cut Where the line curves, pull back the felt sheet to be able to carefully check the line underneath.

Tip

the cut felt sheet to fix it 4 Poke into place.

slits to open the roving over 7 Cut the eyes. Poke the excess felt sheet down into the edges of the eyes.

felt sheet over one side of 5 Place the head and poke it.

an appropriate amount of 8 Take wool roving to use for the tabby

cat stripes and create a line down the center of the back. First, poke one strip from the center of the back down to the rear and then poke a second strip from the neck to the center of the back.

use several small pieces of 6 Iffeltyousheet, line them up exactly

and poke over them to blend them in. Be careful not to overlap the sheets. Overlap will form a bump.

the tabby cat stripes using 9 Make interlocking flocking (page 89). Once you’ve finished adding the pattern, use a sculpting tool to pick at it and give it texture.

a tiny oval from wool roving for 11 Make the tongue and poke it into the hole you made in step 10. Refer to page 28 on how to make a small oval.

Check out page 91 for how to do my paws ♪

scissors, cut an opening 10 Using for the mouth. Tip

the front right leg so that it 12 Bend reaches up to the mouth. Turning

the inside of the paw towards the tongue makes it extra cute. Once you have decided on the shape of the leg, poke the bend to firm it up.

it so the needle goes 13 Poke through the body into the

front leg and the bent leg becomes fixed to the body.

63

Figure

4

Black Cat in Vigilant Mode When cats move closer to something they’re interested in, or are being cautious, they bring their head slightly down. Here we’ll make a chocolatecolored base cat figure and then turn it into a black cat just by covering it in black felt sheet.

Parts You’ll Need ● Face

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

Instructions

Coat ● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Tail Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● 2 back legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm)

※ Using a base of chocolatecolored wool batting is great for making a black cat.

important. Make sure that the top of the head and the back are aligned. You don’t need to make a neck. Once you’ve determined the position, poke the head into place, adding and poking extra wool batting around the neck area.

● Felt Sheet (No. 109) L-size 1 piece

Tip

Tip

the legs to the body, referring to 1 Join page 50. The positioning of the head is

64

Base

the tail. Align the tail with the 2 Join line of the back.

these parts are joined, it’s 3 Once time to make the figure look like

it’s walking. First, pull the front right leg slightly back. You can do this by hand.

the back right leg slightly 4 Move backward too. Move it from the

move the back left leg 5 Then slightly forward. The figure now

a piece of felt sheet slightly 6 Cut longer than the length of the back

wrap the body in felt sheet 7 Next and poke it into place.

a piece of felt sheet long 8 Cut enough to cover the head and

9 Lightly poke the surrounding area.

the excess sheet with 10 Cut scissors so that it matches the

the sheet into place while 11 Poke working the outline of the eyes,

12 Cut slits over the eyes.

thigh, not just the lower part.

looks like it’s walking. You can leave the front left leg as it is.

wrap it as shown.

outline. Be careful not to cut the base within.

nose, and mouth. The more you poke, the more the sheet will blend in and bring out the outline.

leg. Wrap the sheet around the leg and poke it into place. Do the same with all four legs.

the excess felt sheet down 13 Poke into the edges of the eyes.

Please give me a purrfect body! 65

Figure

5

Black & White Cat Out on a Stroll Here, let’s use the walking cat pose to make a lovable black and white cat. Fixing white roving on the base creates a beautifully textured coat.

Parts You’ll Need

● Tail Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

Instructions

the same length as the front leg.

● Wool roving Solid (No. 1) 30g (1 ounce)

● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm)

● Wool roving Solid (No. 9) 30g (1 ounce)

Tip

the standing cat, referring to 1 Make page 50. Cut a strip of white roving

66

Coat

● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 back legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Face

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

Base

it around the leg and poke it 2 Wrap to bring out the outline. Do both the left and right front legs.

the back leg in roving too and 3 Wrap poke it into place.

poking until the outline of 4 Keep the back leg is clear. Do both the

a piece of roving to the length 5 Cut of the body. The roving should run

the roving from step 5. Leave 6 Poke out the front chest and poke the

a small piece of roving on the 7 Place front chest and poke it.

extra roving round the neck 8 Add and blend it in. It’s fine to poke any

9 Make three wool batts (see page 32).

left and right back legs.

sideways.

roving just on both sides.

that is on the back of the head or cheeks into place.

Tip

10 Place a wool batt on the mouth.

the batt until you can see 11 Poke the outline of the sculpted base.

the line of the nose and 12 Check eyes with your finger while

working this area until you 13 Keep can clearly see the outline of

14 Cut slits over the eyes.

the excess felt sheet down 15 Poke into the edges of the eyes.

the eyes, nose, and mouth, as shown.

working this part.

67

Black & White Cat on a Stroll

a strip of black roving the the roving so it matches 16 Cut 17 Poke same length as the body. It’s best the pattern you want. For this

roving onto the front left 18 Poke leg.

black roving to make a 19 Use wool batt.

one side of the wool batt to 20 Fold make a very straight edge and

it into place. Needle the 21 Poke parts of the batt that stick out

same for the opposite 22 Dosidetheof the face.

slits in the roving that cover 23 Cut the eyes.

the excess of the wool batt 24 Poke down into the edges of the eyes.

to draw lines for the pattern first with a water-erasable marker pen.

pattern, there is less black toward the rear, so poke the roving at a slant.

line it up with the pattern for the side of the face.

a sculpting tool to gently 25 Use pick and create a good texture.

I’m nice and fluffy too! ♥

68

as well.

Then, wrap roving around the tail and poke it into place.

Figure

6

Calico Cat Ready to Play How many people will be drawn in by this lovable cat rolling in play? This unique cute pose can easily be created using the various parts. Calico cats are hugely popular, so let’s make this version.

Parts You’ll Need ● Face

Coat

● 2 back legs Length 1 ⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm)

● Body Length 5 ½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

Instructions

Base

● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm) ● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Tail Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Wool roving Mix (No. 201) / a pinch

● Wool roving Solid (No. 9) / a pinch

Tip

the body ⅓ of the way down 1 Bend from the neck area. This is just at the point where the body fills out.

the bent body to firm it up. 2 Poke First, poke the inside part of the bend and then all over.

the back legs to the sides of 3 Join the thighs.

69

batting to the joins and blend 4 Add them in.

is the completed left leg. Pay 5 This attention to the direction when you make the right leg.

the parts in step 5 to join 6 Poke them to the body. Position them at an angle so that the back legs are parallel to the body. Tip

batting to the joins and blend 7 Add it in.

the front leg to the body. 10 Join Have the elbow touching the

body with the leg opening to the side (like a person with their arms open). See the photo for reference.

the front legs. Make a bend a 90° bend in the center of 8 Make 9 Make ⅜” (1 cm) from one end and poke it. the leg. Keeping an image of a cat

waving a paw in your mind, bend it in the opposite direction to the first bend. Do the same on both sides.

11 Add wool batting to the joins.

the batting firm and blend 12 Poke it in.

Tip

the thigh on the opposite side to you decide on the position, 14 Once 13 Join poke it in place. Then add batting the body. Slightly shift the angle of the back leg against the front leg for a playful look.

70

to the joins and blend it in.

the front leg on the opposite 15 Join side. Alternating its direction so that front paws are facing gives a sweet look.

Tip

at the whole figure and 16 Look check the angles of the front

decide how to position 17 Next the head. If you angle it slightly

19

20

and back legs.

Add batting to the neck and blend it in.

down, the body looks adorably rounded. See the photo for reference.

Here the head and all four legs are attached. You can change the position of these parts however you like. Attach a tail of any length you like.

is a nice balance of black the black wool batts where 22 Place 23 This patterning. you wish and poke them. As you fix them in place, fold the sides to create clear edges.

Calico Cat Ready to Play

you decide on the position, 18 Once poke the head into place. Make sure the needle goes through the head into the body.

wool batts, referring to 21 Make page 32, using orange-colored

roving and black roving. Make just enough to create the mottled pattern.

orange patterning between 24 Add the black patches. If you alter the shape, making it oval or irregular, it will look more realistic.

A pawfect bombshell kitty! ♥

cat’s pattern is unique, so 25 Each you can create yours however you like.

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7

Figure

White Cat Standing Tall Some cats, when they are begging or are interested in something, stand up on two legs like a person, don’t they? Often they are a little bit mischievous. The white cat we’ll make here is just like that.

Parts You’ll Need

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

where to place the back 1 Decide legs. Make sure the center of balance is on the heels.

72

Coat ● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Face

Instructions

Base

● 2 back legs Length 1⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm)

● Tail Length 8” (20 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Wool roving Solid (No.1) 30g (1 ounce)

※ The photo shows the back legs and thighs already joined together. See page 50 for how to do this.

Tip

you decide on the position, 2 Once poke the back legs into place. Then, add batting to the joins and blend it in.

sure to firmly poke the inside 3 Make of the legs too.

a bend ⅜” (1 cm) from one 4 Make end of the front leg and poke it.

a 90° bend at the center of 5 Make the leg and poke it. Do the same

the front leg to the body. A 6 Join good way is to align the elbow

the position and then 7 Determine poke it in place. Then, add batting

decide how to position the 8 Next head. A cute way is to have the cat

the position and then 9 Determine poke the neck area. Then add

to the joins and blend it in.

on both the left and right side.

looking straight up.

Tip

the tail with the line of the 11 Align back and spread out the tab to

batting to the joins and 12 Add blend it in. If you join it well, the

the whole body with wool 13 Cover roving and poke it into place.

figure can stand balanced on its back legs and tail.

batting to that area and blend it in.

I can almost walk!

scissors to cut the end of 10 Use the tail to be attached to the

body and form a tab for gluing. Be sure to wrap the tail firmly.

with the body. See the photo for reference.

join the tail to the rear.

Refer to the strolling black and white cat on page 66 for instructions.

73

Figure

8

Brown & White Tabby Stretching Nothing says relaxed more than a cat luxuriously stretching its body. As you enjoy looking at its peaceful expression, you’ll feel yourself relaxing too. Here we’ll make a brown and white tabby cat having a good stretch.

Parts You’ll Need ● Face

● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

Base

Coat

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm) ● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm) ● 2 back legs Length 1 ⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm)

● Tail Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

Instructions

1

Hold the ears in the center and push them back. Be careful not to damage the outline.

74

● Wool roving Natural Blend (No. 804, No. 832) 30g/1 ounce each

● Wool roving Solid (No. 9) 30g (1 ounce)

Tip

2

Once you decide on the position, poke the bent ears into place.

a sculpting tool, pull down the 3 Use wool from above the eyes. This will make the eyes seem closed. Don’t pull the wool too far, though, as it will break the outline.

Tip

a bend ⅜” (1 cm) from one 4 Make end of the front leg and poke it.

the left and right front 5 Position legs under the body with a leg’s-

the legs into place, making 6 Poke sure the needle goes through the

wool batting from the front 7 Add chest down over the front legs and

batting under the body too 8 Add and blend it in.

the thighs and back legs 9 Join together (see page 50 for

the connected thighs and 10 Join back legs to the body. Line up the

you decide on the position, 11 Once join the back legs and thighs to

batting to the joins and 12 Add blend it in.

decide how to position the 13 Next head. Having the head resting on

making sure the needle 14 Poke, goes through the head into the

batting to the neck area 15 Add and blend it in.

Pay attention to the cat’s paw, plumping out the tip as shown in the photo, and poke it.

blend in the joins.

width gap between them.

leg into the body.

instructions). Make both legs.

Tip

back leg with the rear and make the heel straight. Make sure the center of balance is on the back legs.

the front legs is best.

the body. Make sure the needle goes through each leg into the body.

body.

75

1

:

2

the roving to create a tabby 16 Mix pattern for the coat. Use a ratio

of 1 part brown roving to 2 parts orange roving.

17

Mix the two colors together (see page 89 on how to mix roving). The inset photo at top left shows the roving when mixed.

the mixed color wool batts 18 Place where you like, and then poke them. When you place them, try rounding the edges so they create clear patches.

patches to the face too. 19 Add Fold one side of the wool batt

tabby cat stripes using 20 Make interlocking flocking (see page

the wool batting where you 21 Place want to create the pattern on

the batting deeply only in 22 Poke the center. This will create a line.

excess unpoked batting will 23 The rise up straight.

the raised batting with 24 Cut scissors.

the tabby cat stripes are 25 Here complete. Repeat these steps

a larger batt, as shown 26 Use above, for the ear. Fold one side

the wool batt into place. 27 Poke Do the same for both ears.

to make a straight edge and then poke it in place.

for all the places you want to add this pattern.

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89). Make a wool batt using black roving and take a small piece in your hand.

of the batt to make an edge and line it up with the ear.

the head.

Brown & White Tabby Cat Stretching

Tip

to the body 28 Toplaceaddapatterning small amount of batting

where you want the pattern and poke it deeply just in the center. Make thicker lines than those on the head.

a sculpting tool to pick at 31 Use the roving and create a neat texture.

scissors to cut the excess 29 Use unpoked batting that rises up

30 Here is a row of tabby cat stripes.

the tail in a batt of the 32 Wrap previously prepared mixed

the batt into place. The 33 Poke inset photo at top left shows

straight.

roving.

along the top of the tail 34 Then, from step 33, poke in black

keep adding roving from 35 Then, halfway down to the base of the

the tail over and poke 36 Turn roving into the places where

a sculpting tool to blend in 37 Use the roving and then attach the

roving. First, add it from the tip of the tail to halfway down.

you want to add stripes.

the completed poked tail.

Isn’t my standing tail cute?

tail and poke it into place. To give the tail texture, this is done in three parts.

tail to the body. How to join it is explained on page 53.

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Figure

9

Long-haired Ragdoll Glancing Back A long-haired beauty with a gorgeous air. It may seem difficult at first to make the long coat, but this is actually easier than making a short-haired coat. Here we’ll learn how to make a long-haired cat that is glancing elegantly back.

Parts You’ll Need ● Face

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

Base

Coat ● Wool roving Solid (No.1) 30g (1 ounce)

● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm) ● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm) ● 2 back legs Length 1 ⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm)

● Tail Length 8” (20 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Wool roving Natural Blend (No. 801, No. 804) 30g/1 ounce each

Instructions

the thighs to the back legs. 1 Attach Check the photo for the position. Here the left leg is completed.

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batting to the joins and blend 2 Add it in. Make the right leg so it is symmetrical with the left one.

the connected thighs and 3 Join back legs to the body. As with the

sitting pose, it’s best if the back legs slightly stick out to the rear of the body. Poke both the left and right back legs into place.

Tip

4

Add wool batting to where the legs join the body and poke it to blend it in.

we’ll join the front legs to the 7 Next, body. A good way is to position the elbows so they rest on the ground. Make bends ⅜” (1 cm) from the tip of the legs so they are pointing upward and poke them into shape.

5

Spread open the left and right back legs with your hand. The shape shown above is what you’re aiming for.

poking the front leg to 8 After attach it to the body, add wool batting and blend it in.

the spread back legs into 6 Poke place. First, poke the joins on the

inside of the legs (tummy side), and then poke so that the needle goes through from the rear into the body.

the front leg on the opposite 9 Join side as well.

Tip

1 : 0.5

the shape and then add 10 Check wool batting and blend it in. Add batting to the front chest also and blend it in. The inset photo at top left shows the four legs joined to the body.

all the batts have the fibers 13 Here running in the same direction.

1:1

0.5 : 1

white and brown roving 11 Prepare in the ratios shown above. Mix

each type of roving to make three colored batts.

the sides of the body with 14 Cover white roving and poke it into place. It’s fine to just poke the top parts of the roving, letting the bottom part hang loose. It will look like the inset photo at top right.

a small amount of the mixed 12 Take batt and work it so all the fibers run in the same direction. Here the fibers run straight.

the lightest color mixed 15 Take batt you prepared and poke it

into place. Pay attention to the direction of the fibers. Make sure they are running from the top down. 79

the medium colored mixed 16 Poke fibers into place, making sure they are slightly higher than the lightest colored ones.

you poke the fibers should be 17 Ashanging down over both sides

the darkest colored fibers 18 Poke into the center of the back.

a sculpting tool to give the 20 Use coat texture.

step 11 to make mixed 21 Repeat color wool batts for the face.

from the center of the back.

Tip

above, you should 19 Ashaveshown a gradation starting from

the bottom with the lightest color, through the medium color and the darkest color on top.

white roving into place so 22 Poke it runs from the side of the head down toward the neck. It’s fine to just poke the top parts of the roving, with the bottom part hanging loose.

we poke the medium25 Here colored batting down into the

edges of the eye. Use scissors to cut the part that covers the eye and poke the excess batting down.

80

23

Here all the roving is poked in place.

medium-colored batting 24 Poke across each eye to create a

mantle pattern. When you position it, fold the sides to create straight edges so it is easier to poke the batting in place.

the darkest batting around up a piece of wool batting to 27 Roll 26 Wrap the left and right ears. See page make the neck. See page 53 on 58 on how to do this.

how to make the neck.

Long-haired Ragdoll Glancing Back

Tip

28

Place the head on the neck and determine the direction of the face. Here the cat will be glancing behind, so it looking toward its back.

the roving has been poked 31 Here in three stages into the tail and forms this shape.

29

Once you decide on the position, join the head and neck.

the lightest colored 32 Poke batting at the tip of the tail.

wrap the tail 30 Inwiththreewhitestages, roving and poke it

into place. As with the face, make several batts of different colors with the fibers all running the same direction.

the wool batting so that it 33 Layer gradually gets darker and darker toward the base of the tail.

I’m a glamor puss!♪

the layered roving. The 34 Poke inset photo at top left shows

scissors to cut open the 35 Use end of the tail and form a tab

up the roving covering the 36 Lift body and align the tail with the

up the long coat all 37 Neaten over and give it a soft, fluffy

the tail after being poked. Next, use a sculpting tool to create texture.

line of the back.

for gluing.

appearance.

81

Figure

10

Long-haired Norwegian Forest in Low-seated Pose A plush-coated cat sitting quietly, adorable and toy-like. Here we’ll make a long-haired cat, sitting with composure.

Parts You’ll Need ● Face

Instructions 1

● Wool roving Solid (No.1) 30g (1 ounce ) ● 2 thigh parts Diameter 2” (5 cm)

● 2 back legs Length 1⅝” (4 cm), Width ⅞” (2 cm)

● Tail Length 8” (20 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Wool roving Solid (No. 9) 30g (1 ounce) ● Wool roving Natural Blend (No. 805, No. 804) 30g/1 ounce each

Tip

2

a mixed color wool batt using a 1 Make ratio of 0.5 black roving to 1 part gray roving and 2 parts brown roving.

82

Coat

● 2 front legs Length 4” (10 cm), Diameter ⅞” (2 cm)

● Body Length 5½” (14 cm), Front width 2” (5 cm), Back width 2⅜” (6 cm)

0.5

Base

the sitting upright cat, 2 Make referring to page 46 (position the

front legs so they angle slightly away from the body). Poke white roving onto the sides of the body. It’s fine to just poke the top parts of the roving, with the bottom parts hanging loose.

the mixed color wool batting 3 Poke into place. Refer to step 15 onward on page 79 and layer the batting starting from the bottom up.

Tip

black roving onto the center 4 Poke of the back. First, poke one strip

poke a second strip running 5 Next, from the base of the neck to the

to page 80, poke white 6 Referring roving on the sides of the face.

it on the other cheek, 7 Poke forehead and behind the ears as

the head to the body. The 8 Join face should be looking to the side,

the head seems to be too low, 9 Ifmake a neck. See page 53 for

on page 81, wrap the 10 Astailshown with white roving in three

a sculpting tool to create 11 Use texture.

the tail to the body. Position 12 Join it so that it is aligned with the

along from the center of the back running down towards the rear.

well. It should be like a helmet, as shown on the finished cat (bottom right photo).

center of the back. This shows the texture of the cat’s coat.

not straight ahead.

stages and poke it into place. Then on top of that, along the top of the tail, poke black roving.

Then poke mixed colored roving on one cheek.

instructions. Join the neck to the head.

line of the back.

Please give me a long tail

tabby cat stripes on the 13 Make top of the head using interlocking flocking (page 89).

83

Feature How Real Cats and "Remembered" Ones Differ You encounter interesting twists and turns when making cat figures. For example, I once made a cat exactly like the photo I’d been given and the cat owner said it was no good. This was because the cat had a certain expression that only the owner saw. The cat in the photo had almond, upturned eyes, but it always approached its owner with sweetlooking rounded eyes. The owner had such strong memories of this cute, loving cat that a figure that matched its photo was an incomplete picture to him. From an opposite perspective, sometimes if the owner, who of course knows their cat best, tries to make a cat figure, it will not turn out exactly as they’d envisaged either. Again, the owner has memories that include particular expressions and gestures of a cat that acts loving toward

84

them. Moreover, without knowing it, when you look at a cat, you are focusing on its eyes to tell its mood. This means the other parts of the face and memories of the cat’s expressions can become vague. It’s better to take multiple photos of your cat to give you a more objective view. A good quality figure skillfully combines the owner’s memories with the factual information photos can provide, and it is maybe then that a cat figure is truly born. There are also times when an owner who has lost a cat finds healing in the enjoyable process of making a cat figure. Other times, someone who is struggling to make a figure of their own cat may create an amazing piece for another person. These are all interesting discoveries when it comes to making cat figures.

Chapter

4

Additional Techniques In this chapter, we’ll learn about a cat’s skeletal structure. The more you understand, the more realistic your figures will become. You’ll also find additional techniques here that couldn’t be introduced in Chapter 3. These will help you create a figure that looks just like your own pet cat.

85

The Skeletal Structure of Cats

Skull Thoracic Vertebrae Scapula

Lumbar Vertebrae Pelvis

Acromion Rib Elbow Knee Hock

Real The quickest way to improve is to Structure study the actual skeletal structure It’s important to know about real cats if you want to create a realistic cat figure. If you know how their body is structured, it is sure to help you understand how to join the parts. The most important points are that the back legs are always bent and that the line of the scapula is higher than that of the spine. This gives the cat its rounded form.

86

Real Cat Structure

Making a cat figure that reflects the real bone structure

Here are the main points to pay attention to when creating a cat figure. Keep these in mind while you are working and you are sure to achieve a much more realistic look.

Spine Create a gentle curve from the thoracic to lumbar vertebrae. When making the bread roll shape for the body, be aware of the roundness.

Chest Surprisingly, a cat’s chest swells out a lot. However, this isn’t due to the bone structure, so be careful not to make the chest too big or it won’t look realistic. Instead, texture the coat to give a sense of ”swell.“

Front Feet Cats have four toes and one dewclaw on each front foot (four toes on each back foot). If you create these, your cat figure will look much more realistic. See page 91 for details on how to do it.

Tail A cat’s tail is connected from the lumbar vertebrae through the pelvis. This is why you need to poke it in place so that it follows the line of the back. Take care not to position the tail too low or it will look unnatural.

Hocks (Heels) The bend halfway down the back leg is the cat’s hock (heel). When a cat is standing, the hocks don’t touch the ground. It’s good to keep this in mind when bending the legs into shape.

87

Creating Realistically Colored Fur

All Different Colors

Enjoy making a coat the same color as your cat’s

The most difficult and most fun part of making a cat figure is getting the coat color right. As you know, cats come in a wide variety of colors. Even the “common” tabby or calico has its own colorings, and changes in light and surroundings make them even more unique. Making a figure with a coat just like your own cat’s can be tricky, but it’s very enjoyable. So let’s master the techniques to be able to do this.

Cats are known for their varied coat colors. Mix different roving to get the perfect color for you.

Gray & White Tabby

Brown & White Tabby

Cats Come in All Colors

Ragdoll 88

Brown & White Tabby

Calico

Orange Tabby

Mixed Coats

the roving you’d 1 Prepare like to mix. The color will

Combine various roving and create your ideal color

an appropriate 2 Take amount of wool roving,

arrange the fibers so they run in the same direction, then halve them by pulling straight sideways in the way that you make a wool batt (see page 32).

change depending on what ratio you use, so try it a number of ways.

5 Dotimes.this several more

1

excess unpoked 5 The batting from step 4 will rise straight up.

fibers crisscross and then pull the roving straight to the sides again to make two halves.

two colors of roving doing this until 6 The 7 Continue should become mixed as you can’t see the original shown above.

Interlocking Flocking

Using the color roving you want to make the tabby or mottled pattern, make a wool batt.

the two pieces of 3 Layer split roving so that the

2

colored roving.

again, layer the two 4 Once pieces so that the fibers crisscross and then pull the roving straight to the sides again to make two halves.

the roving has been 8 Here completely mixed. You can use this as a midway color between orange and brown.

An effective flocking method for creating natural tabby and mottled patterns

Take a small amount of the wool batt.

the excess batting 6 Cut with scissors.

3

Place the wool batt where you want to create the pattern.

the tabby cat stripes 7 Here are complete. Use a sculpting tool to create texture and it will look even more realistic.

the batting deeply 4 Poke just in the center. It

should form a thin line. To create mottling, make the stripes thicker to the sides.

V If you just poke spun roving, it will just become a line and not have any texture, so be sure to use a wool batt.

89

Other Advanced Techniques

Aim for Realism

Little techniques to achieve a realistic look

Here we’ll learn a few techniques that will help make your cat figure look just like your own cat—how to change the color of the eyes, sculpt the toes of the paws, and add paw pads. Giving your cat figure paw pads will especially make your cat figure seem a lot more real. Let’s try them out.

Changing the Eye Color Have you looked at the cats’ eyes available in the shops and wished you could find some the same color as your cat’s? Here is a good technique for you. It can also be used for cats whose eyes are two different colors.

should remove the layer 3 This of color and make the eye transparent.

90

nippers to cut off the stem at 1 Use the back of the cats’ eyes.

the back of the eye on fine 2 Place sand paper and lightly sand it.

a permanent marker to paint 4 Use the eye the color you want to use.

completed eye. You can make 5 The the eye green, yellow, or any color you like.

Sculpting the Paws Making Paw Pads (part 1)

First sculpt the lines of the toes on the front and back paws, and then you can poke the paw pads. Prepare a small amount of pink or black roving, depending on the color of your cat’s paw pads.

the tips of the paws into 1 Divide four. A good way to do that is

the lines, sculpt the 2 Following toes of the paws to bring them

do the lines to the left and 3 Then right.

four sculpted toes when 4 The complete. Use this as reference.

the paw over and make the 5 Turn dewclaw. The best position is about

is the paw with the sculpted 6 This dewclaw.

we’ll poke in the roving to 7 Now make the paw pads. Make the

is the completed left paw. 8 This Note that for the back paws there

a marker pen, color the 1 Using polymer clay pink or black to match

up small pieces and form them 2 Roll into the shape of paw pads. Use glue

to mark the lines using a watererasable marker pen.

roving into small ”rice grains“ and then work them in.

out. It’s easiest if you start with the center line.

two toes’ worth down on the side that you’d class as the big toe.

is no dewclaw and therefore no paw pad.

Making Paw Pads (part 2) Paw pad parts don’t have to be made from felt. They can be made using air-dry polymer clay too. They give the appearance of a much smoother texture. The figures introduced in this book have polymer clay paw pads.

the paw pad color you want.

to attach them to the paws.

91

Templates

If you are uncertain about the size when making the parts, try tracing the following onto a paper template.

Templates for Individual Parts Head

Thigh

Diameter 2” (5 cm)

Diameter 2” (5 cm)

Body

3” (7.5 cm)

2” (5 cm)

5¾” (14.5 cm)

92

Ear

1⅜” (3.5 cm)

1⅝” (4 cm)

Leg 1 ⅞” (2 cm)

4” (10 cm)

Leg 2

Used for when the hind legs are folded under the cat’s body, as in a sitting cat figure.

⅞” (2 cm)

1⅝” (4 cm)

Tail

Make it any length you like.

93

A Final Note

Making is a hundred times more fun than just looking! Only a person who creates a piece can truly understand the joy of making it. Others can look at it and form their own opinion as to whether it is good or not. It’s easy to be impressed when you see someone else’s work, but I don’t believe that is a deep emotion. I think genuine appreciation occurs when you create something yourself. Previously, if you asked a Japanese person to make something, whether for their own interest or for work, they would diligently work away at it little by little, day after day, enjoying the process all the while, to create a piece of extremely high quality. These days though, most people just go out and buy things. But the feeling that comes from having isn’t the same as the feeling that comes from making. If you feel this way too when you buy or look at something, please try making your own cat figures! I’m sure it will give you a feeling that you have never experienced before. And if your work gives pleasure to someone else, that is even more wonderful. It’s my hope as the author of this book that everyone reading it will come to realize the joy of making something.

—Housetsu Sato

94

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Books to Span the East and West Our core mission at Tuttle Publishing is to create books which bring people together one page at a time. Tuttle was founded in 1832 in the small New England town of Rutland, Vermont (USA). Our fundamental values remain as strong today as they were then—to publish best-in-class books informing the English-speaking world about the countries and peoples of Asia. The world is a smaller place today and Asia’s economic, cultural and political influence has expanded, yet the need for meaningful dialogue and information about this diverse region has never been greater. Since 1948, Tuttle has been a leader in publishing books on the cultures, arts, cuisines, languages and literatures of Asia. Our authors and photographers have won many awards and Tuttle has published thousands of titles on subjects ranging from martial arts to paper crafts. We welcome you to explore the wealth of information available on Asia at www.tuttlepublishing.com.

Published by Tuttle Publishing, an imprint of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd. www.tuttlepublishing.com YOUMOU-FELT DE TSUKURU UCHINOKO SOKKURI KAWAII KONEKO Copyright © Housetsu Sato 2013 English translation rights arranged with Nitto Shoin Honsha Co., Ltd through Japan UNI Agency, Inc., Tokyo ISBN 978-0-8048-5377-4

ISBN 978-1-4629-2250-5 (ebook)

English Translation © 2021 Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd Translated from Japanese by Wendy Uchimura All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without prior written permission from the publisher.

Staff (Original Japanese edition) Design Mutsumi Oka, Tomoka Yokoyama, Ayumi Goda (mocha design) Composition/Writing Eriko Ito Photography Minako Okuyama Planning/Direction Kyomi Yamaguchi (Neko Biyori Editorial Department) Production Cooperation Yoshihide Hayano (FAIS UN REVE) Cat Figure Production Assistance Yuko Moriyama, Junko Kunihiro, Satoha Kagawa, Mariko Fukaya Cat Fur Provided by Yuriko Izumi, Etsuka Hakata, Mami Hakata, Yuko Nakajima Roving by Hamanaka Co., Ltd. Distributed by

North America, Latin America & Europe Tuttle Publishing 364 Innovation Drive North Clarendon, VT 05759-9436 U.S.A. Tel: 1 (802) 773-8930 Fax: 1 (802) 773-6993 [email protected] www.tuttlepublishing.com

Asia Pacific Berkeley Books Pte. Ltd. 3 Kallang Sector #04-01 Singapore 349278 Tel: (65) 6741 2178 Fax: (65) 6741 2179 [email protected] www.tuttlepublishing.com

23 22 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore 2102TP TUTTLE PUBLISHING® is a registered trademark of Tuttle Publishing, a division of Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.