DIY doctor: know-how with show-how 9781405322195, 1405322195

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DY DOCTOR know-how with show-how JULiAn CAssELL PEtER PARhAM

DiY DOCTOR know-how with show-how

DiY DOCTOR know-how with show-how JULiAn CAssELL PEtER PARhAM

London, New York, Munich, Melbourne, Delhi Project Editor Designer Senior Editor Senior Art Editor Managing Editor Managing Art Editor Production Editor Production Controller Special Photography

Tarda Davison-Aitkins Angela Won-Yin Mak David Summers Susan St. Louis Stephanie Farrow Lee Griffiths Sharon McGoldrick Rita Sinha Gary Ombler and Steve Gorton

First published in Great Britain in 2007 by Dorling Kindersley Limited, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL A Penguin Company 2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1 Copyright © 2007 Dorling Kindersley Limited Text copyright © 2007 Julian Cassell and Peter Parham All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-1-40532-219-5 Reproduced by Wyndeham Pre-press, London and Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by Hung Hing Printing Offset Company Ltd Important Neither the authors nor the publisher take any responsibility for any injury or damage resulting from use of techniques shown or described in this book. The reader is advised to follow all safety instructions carefully, wear the correct protective clothing, and, where appropriate, follow all manufacturers’ instructions. Discover more at www.dk.com

Introduction

1 2 3

9

ALTERATIONS AND REPAIRS Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongue-and-groove board

12 15 18 21 24 26 28 30

Replacing a square-edged board Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

33 36 38 40 42 44 46

KITCHENS AND BATHROOMS Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge Adjusting a door runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

50 53 56 58 60 62 64 66

DECORATING AND FINISHING Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile

70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84

Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongue-and-groove panelling Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

87 90 93 96 98 100 102 105

OUTDOOR REPAIRS Levelling block paving Patching tarmac Re-laying a gravel path Repairing concrete Replacing a broken slab Repairing a loose fence panel

4

110 112 114 116 118 121

ELECTRICS Replacing a damaged plateswitch Replacing a broken pull-cord switch Replacing a damaged lampholder Re-threading a mounting box Re-setting a loose mounting box Replacing a damaged plug

5

124 126 128 131 132 134

PLUMBING AND HEATING Temporary repair of a hole in a pipe Shutting off a section of pipe Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting Repair using a slip coupling Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

138 140 142 144 146 149 152 155

Index Acknowledgements

156 159

6

Introduction This book is aimed at showing you how you can make simple repairs to accidental damage that can occur to your home. Using step by step photography, and jargon-free language, we show you how to maintain your home, and how to make those improvements that may have otherwise seemed impossible. DIY Doctor will show you how the job is done. The key to DIY is knowing what you can achieve. As long as safety issues are never compromised, pushing your own perceived limitations a little further than you would have thought possible will provide a great deal of satisfaction. By challenging yourself, you build up new levels of skill, aptitude, and ultimately, confidence. We believe that the secret to success in any home-improvement project is taking time to plan, to budget, and to hone your abilities. Compromise is often required, and finding the correct balance between these competing elements often comes down to experience. We have tried to cram as much of our own experience as possible into the following chapters to give you a head start and to add to your own knowledge and skills. We wish you success in the work ahead.

Alterations and repairs

Patch-plastering

12

Patch-plastering Use this technique on an area of flaky or missing plaster, either on a wall (shown here) or on a ceiling. Use undercoat plaster on a semi-porous surface and a bonding coat on a non-porous one. If old plaster is unstable in a number of areas, remove all plaster and render, then re-plaster. Most plaster should come away relatively easily.

Tools and materials Brush, paintbrush, PVA solution, undercoat plaster, finishing plaster, pointing trowel, hawk, plastering trowel, sandpaper

Mixing plaster Before mixing, put on a dust mask to avoid dust inhalation. Half-fill a bucket with clean tap water, and slowly add the plaster, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

1

Remove loose plaster and brush out any loose debris from the damaged area, paying particular attention to the edges.

Then, mix the contents in the bucket using a power stirrer that is designed for use with a power drill. Do not allow any contaminants to fall into the plaster while mixing.

Alterations and repairs

13 Patch-plastering

Pay attention to edges when applying PVA

Smooth to edge of the surface

Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Brush a coat of PVA solution (5:1 water to PVA), overlapping the surrounding wall. This aids bonding for new plaster.

3

Apply undercoat plaster with a pointing trowel. With the same trowel, smooth the plaster to a level slightly shallower than that of the surrounding wall’s surface. Continued

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Patch-plastering

14

4

Score the plaster with the edge of the trowel to provide a key, which will aid bonding for the topcoat of plaster.

Applying plaster to the surface The hawk (bottom) is used to hold plaster while it is being applied to the surface with the plasterer’s trowel. This trowel (top) is the plasterer’s main tool and is

5

Once the undercoat is dry, use the plastering trowel to apply finishing plaster (see below). Remove or add plaster for an even finish, then sand the area.

used to scoop the plaster from a hawk, onto a wall or ceiling. The plasterer then spreads the plaster over the surface with the trowel.

Repairing a small hole in a stud wall A small area of damaged plasterboard can be filled with a plasterboard offcut. You can use the same technique when repairing a hole in a plasterboard ceiling. Use a detector to make sure that you do not cut through any cables or pipes when enlarging the hole.

15 Patch-plastering

Check for cables and pipes behind the plasterboard before enlarging the hole

Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom

Mark on the plasterboard where to cut

Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

Tools and materials Drywall saw, string, nail, plasterboard offcut, PVA adhesive, offcut of wood, filler, scraper, sandpaper

1

Trim off loose pieces around the hole to create a rectangular space. Cut a piece of plasterboard that is slightly larger than the hole. Continued

How detectors work Detectors work by identifying radiation signals that resonate from the pipes, wires, and studs situated below the surface of the plasterboard.

Cutting holes in plasterboard A drywall saw, also known as a padsaw, is useful for enlarging holes in plasterboard (as shown above), or it could be used, for example, to make holes for power sockets.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Repairing a small hole in a stud wall

16

2

Make a small hole in the centre of the small board. Attach a nail to one end of a piece of string, then thread the string through the hole.

3

Choosing plasterboard Plasterboard comes in large sheets of 2,400 x 1,200mm (8 x 4ft), and in laths – smaller sheets measuring 1,200 x 600mm (4 x 2ft). The boards are often colour-coded for easy identification.

Apply PVA adhesive around the edge of the board on the opposite side to the tied-off end of string.

There are various types of plasterboard for different uses. These include moisture-check (green), vapour-check (white), and acousticcheck (blue).

Alterations and repairs

17 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

4

Post the board through the hole then pull the board into position using the string. To hold it in place as the adhesive dries, tie an offcut of wood to the string.

5

Once the PVA is dry, remove the string and apply filler to the hole. When dry, sand the filler. You may need a second layer for a level finish.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Using filler Mix the filler powder with water, into a stiff, creamy paste. Using a scraper, fill the small hole in the plaster. Once dry, sand it to a smooth finish and decorate. Ready-mixed fillers are also available.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Repointing mortar

18

Repointing mortar If old mortar has cracked or deteriorated, get advice from a structural engineer about whether it is a sign of a structural problem or simply due to settlement. If settlement is the cause, mortar can be repointed (shown here) or “stitched” (a technique involving special “stitching rods” and an epoxy resin). If the problem is more serious, follow your engineer’s advice on tackling it. Tools and materials Gloves, goggles, joint raker, club hammer, cold chisel, brush, misting spray, brick trowel, brick jointer, paintbrush

Shaping mortar Joints are key components in masonry work. Not only do they hold the bricks in place, and keep the structure solid, but they also form part of the design, particularly in the case of brickwork. Garden wall joints, for example,

Loose mortar to be removed

1

To prepare the wall, use a joint raker to remove any loose, crumbly bits of old mortar. Guard against flying debris and scrapes by wearing goggles and gloves.

can be pointed in various ways. The jointer (see p.20) creates a v-shaped profile, and a trowel can angle the mortar so that it is recessed at the top and flush with the brick at the bottom, to shed water.

Alterations and repairs

19 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Use a club hammer and cold chisel to “peck” out solid chunks of mortar from between the bricks. Then dust out the old mortar joints to remove all debris.

3

Use a spray to wet the bricks and mortar joints. This prevents the bricks from soaking up the new mortar and ensures that it will adhere. Continued

How the joint raker works A hardened masonry nail is positioned between two wheels on a cast aluminium frame. A simple wingnut mechanism adjusts the depth of the nail. The raker is then wheeled across the wall surface,

with the wheels straddling a joint, allowing the nail to scrape out the old mortar. Wear gloves to protect your hands.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Repointing mortar

20

Rest the trowel on the top edge of the brick

4

Use a brick trowel and a brick jointer to press new mortar into place. Use the jointer to match the profile of existing mortar joints.

Achieving a neat finish This double-ended brick jointer is used for shaping brick joints. This jointer gives options for two different joint depths.

5

Use a dry paint brush to remove any of the excess mortar and to tidy up the joints.

Removing glass safely

21

Remove the glass and clean old putty and fixings from the groove in the window frame, known as the rebate, before reglazing. The technique for replacing glass fixed with UPVC bead fixings is similar (see p.24). In both cases you should tape the glass before removing it. You should be able to free the pane from any glazing silicone, by cutting around the silicone with a craft knife. Tools and materials Goggles, gloves, masking tape, hammer, hacking knife or old chisel, pliers, paintbrush, exterior primer

Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

1

Apply masking tape to the glass surface to reduce the danger of flying shards. Tap the glass with the butt of a hammer to loosen it. Continued

Wear protective clothing It is advisable to wear protective gloves and boots when replacing a glass window, but it is essential to protect your eyes.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Removing glass safely

22 Dispose of glass safely

2

Carefully remove the loose, large sections of glass first, then pick out the smaller shards. Dispose of broken glass safely.

Using alternative pliers Combination pliers (left) can be used to remove old pins. The toothed jaws have a curved section for gripping, but they do not have the same reach as needle-nosed pliers.

3

Use a hacking knife or old chisel to remove the old putty and stubborn pieces of glass from around the glazing rebate.

Alterations and repairs

23 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings

Needle-nosed pliers are ideal for detailed working

Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

4

Remove any old pins or glazing sprigs from the frame using either pliers or pincers.

5

Dust off surfaces. Use an exterior wood primer on any bare wood before fitting a new pane of glass.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Measuring for glazing You have to measure to the farthest edge of each glazing rebate. Then deduct 4mm (¼in) from your figures for single glazing. Take these dimensions to your supplier and they will cut

the glass to size. For unusual window shapes, make a cardboard template for your supplier, but for double-glazed units, give the exact measurement from edge to edge of the rebate.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Removing UPVC bead fixings

24

Removing UPVC bead fixings A pane will need to be replaced if it is cracked, or if the seal around a unit fails, causing condensation to build up between the glazing. With beaded and double-glazed units, try to remove the fixings carefully so they can be reused. Check if the unit is covered by a manufacturer’s guarantee before replacing it yourself. The guarantee can be invalidated if you don’t follow the fitting instructions. Tools and materials Scraper, packers

Multipurpose scraper Usually used for removing old decorative coverings or scraping down loose, flaky surfaces, a scraper is an ideal tool for removing the bead fixings on UPVA windows.

Be careful not to damage frame

1

Carefully prise the first bead away from the frame by working a scraper blade under its edge.

Versatile packers As well as being used for prising UPVC beading from window frames, packers – or plastic wedges – are also used to keep a consistent expansion gap when laying floors.

Alterations and repairs

25 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Prise up the bead so that you can position a packer underneath it, beside the scraper. Insert another packer on the other side of the scraper.

3

Move the packers outwards to unclip the bead from the frame. Repeat for all beads, then remove the doubleglazing unit carefully.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Choosing UPVC windows Double-glazed, UPVC windows offer excellent sound and heat insulation. Because they are plastic, they will not rot, and require little maintenance other than regular cleaning.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Sticking doors: planing the bottom

26

Sticking doors: planing the bottom Doors can stick when the bottom of the door is rubbing against the floor. Gently removing the wood from this area of the door will return the door to an easy opening and closing action.

Measure the largest gap between the door and the floor

Tools and materials Tape measure, wood, pencil, block plane or panel saw

Tape measure technology Technology has taken the tape measure to another level. A digital display shows a measurement once the tape is locked.

1

Measure the exact height needed to clear floor level. Cut a small offcut of wood to the height that you have just measured.

Alterations and repairs

27 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely

Always plane from the outer edge inwards to prevent the wood splitting

Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

With a pencil on top, move the offcut across the floor to trace an exact line on the door. This is called scribing.

3

Remove the door from the frame and plane down the guide line. If a large amount of wood needs to be removed, use a panel saw.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Adjusting a block plane The compact nature of a block plane means that it is very easy to handle, as well as being easy to store in the toolbox. By adjusting the depth screw at the back

of the plane, the blade can be moved up or down, altering the amount of wood that will be shaved from the door.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Rattling doors: moving the strike plate

28

Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Doors that fit too loosely in their frame rattle in a draught. This is often due to the strike plate being in the wrong position. Measure the area accurately and move the strike plate. Door latch

Tools and materials Combination square, pencil, screwdriver, chisel

Using a combination square The features of a combination square include a steel rule that slides within the stock of a square. As well as determining a right angle, other functions of the combination square include scribing – marking

1

Measure the gap between the door latch and the closing edge with a combination square.

a material to fit exactly against a wall or ceiling – and finding levels. It is also ideal for measuring a small rebate or grooved cut.

Alterations and repairs

29 Patch-plastering

Strike plate

Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Transfer this measurement to the area between the frame edge and the front edge of the strike-plate opening. Move the strike plate to this new position.

3

Drill holes into the door frame to guide the screws into position. Chisel out wood from the door frame to allow for the strike plate’s new position and screw it in place.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Using a wood chisel 1 To remove a depth of wood, first use the chisel to make vertical cuts along the marked guide lines. 2 Then place the chisel within the guide lines, with the bevel-edged side facing downwards. Hold it at

an angle, and strike the handle with a hammer. 3 Tidy the edges of the cut using the flat side of the chisel. Control the chisel by hand, gradually finishing the joint.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Replacing a tongue-and-groove board

30

Replacing a tongue-and-groove board The interlocking design of tongueand-groove floor boards means that it is necessary to cut through the board joints to release them from their position. A circular saw is ideal for this purpose. Take care to avoid damaging any pipes or wires below floor level.

Tools and materials needed Metal cutting blade, circular saw, pry bar, chisel, replacement board tongue-and-groove board, lost-head nails, hammer, nail punch, filler, sandpaper

Cutting across the grain An alternative way to cut the damaged board is to cut it across the grain, along a joist. In this way a smaller section of board can be removed. However,

Damaged floor board

1

Even if the damaged area is small, the board will have to be replaced because the boards interlock. Set the circular saw to the exact depth of the damaged board.

the adjacent boards would also have small cuts on their edges. For an exposed floor these would have to be disguised with an appropriate filler.

Alterations and repairs

31 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board

Wood offcut

Replacing a square-edged board

2

Run the saw down the entire length of both sides of the board.

3

Pry out the damaged board using a pry bar. Rest the bar on a wood offcut to prevent the bar damaging adjacent boards. Continued

Using a pry bar A pry bar can be used to remove nails, by sliding the claws around the nail and pulling the bar towards you. It can also be used to lever out or to break down masonry.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Replacing a tongue-and-groove board

32

The chisel should have its bevelled edge facing the board

4

Remove the tongue from the new board, using a sharp chisel. If the boards are very thick, you may need to use a saw.

5

Fix the board in place. Knock the head of the nails below the surface of the board with a nail punch (see p.37). Then fill the holes with wood filler, and sand smooth.

Replacing a square-edged board It is a much simpler process to replace square-edged boards than tongue-and-groove boards, as they do not have interlocking edges. It is also less likely that cables and pipes below floor level will be damaged, but caution is always required.

33 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom

Use the existing nails to find the joist

Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

Tools and materials Pencil, ruler, pry bar, panel or tenon saw, wood offcuts, replacement board, nails, hammer

1

Fixing a loose board

Mark a pencil line on the damaged board over the nearest joist. If the damage is central, mark lines on joists either side of the damage.

Filling a gap between boards Continued

Matching board dimensions It may be difficult to buy replacement boards with matching dimensions. If the new boards are too wide, reduce the width with a power plane. If an exact depth

match is not possible, buy boards that are slightly less deep than the desired depth, and position pieces of hardboard on the joists below to level the boards.

Patching a flat roof Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Replacing a square-edged board

34 Cut below the pencil line

2

Rest the pry bar on a wood offcut to avoid damaging the floor. Lever up the broken board with the pry bar. Then place wood offcuts under the board to secure it.

Recognizing problems with wood When buying wood, look out for splits, knots and uneven grain. You will pay more for defect-free wood, but examine timber before purchasing.

3

Saw along the pencil line to remove the damaged section of board. The offcuts, which line up below the pencil mark, will serve to protect the sound floor boards.

Alterations and repairs

35 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely

Use the correct length of nail so it fastens to the joist

Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

4

Using the damaged section of board as a template, mark the new board and cut it to size.

5

Position the newly cut section of floorboard into the gap, and nail it in place.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Cutting wood with a saw 1 Draw a pencil guide line across each face of the wood, marking where you will cut. 2 Use a craft knife to score along the guide line. 3 Hold the saw with your index finger pointing towards

the blade. Place the blade just to the offcut side of the guide line. Start the cut by making two or three backward strokes across the corner of the wood. Once you have cut a shallow groove, saw back and forth using long strokes.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Fixing a loose board

36

Fixing a loose board Loose or creaking floor boards are a common problem, particularly in older buildings, but they are straightforward to fix. Screws can be used instead of nails, but if used, the finished job will not be as pleasing to look at.

Drill a pilot hole that is smaller than the nail you will use

Tools and materials needed Drill, nails, hammer, nail punch

Versatile claw hammers A claw hammer is a particularly versatile DIY tool. As well as positioning and securing nails, it can be used as a wrecking tool to remove a construction. Take time to choose a hammer with a good “balance” and grip.

1

On one side of the loose floorboard, drill a pilot hole down through the board and into the joist below.

Ergonomically shaped claw hammers, like the one shown here, make striking and levering easier and more comfortable.

Alterations and repairs

37 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

If the floor is exposed, hammer a nail into the hole. If appearance is not important, use a screw, which will provide a more secure fixing.

3

Use a nail punch (if using nails) to knock nail heads just below the surface. If necessary, repeat on the other edge of the board.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Punching a nail below the surface A nail punch enables you to site a nail head just below the surface of a material. This is particularly necessary for fixing floor boards. Punches are available in several sizes.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Filling a gap between boards

38

Filling a gap between boards Gaps between floor boards look unsightly and can cause draughts. This is not normally a problem with tongue-and-groove boards. For square-edged boards, large gaps should be filled.

Tools and materials Strip of wood, wood glue, hammer, block plane

Matching exposed boards If floor boards are exposed, finding a replacement board that matches the colour of the existing boards may be an issue that will need to be resolved. One solution could be to use an original board from a less visible area of

1

Cut a strip of wood to fit in the gap. Apply wood glue to both sides of the strip.

the room, such as under the sofa. If you are replacing more than one or two boards, try reclaimed or seasoned boards. You may be able to match them to your floor by treating the wood with wood dye or stain.

Alterations and repairs

39 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate

Punched in nails avoid plane damage

Be sure to remove excess glue

Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Insert the wood strip into the gap, knocking it in with a hammer for a tight fit. Allow it to sit slightly above the floor surface.

3

After the glue has dried, use a block plane to remove the excess wood, and to create a smooth finish flush with the floor.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Using a plane Planes are best used for removing wood from thin edges, such as doors or sections of prepared timber. A sound technique is important for achieving good results. Position the plane on the edge of the timber length.

Move it forward steadily, keeping the pressure on the toe (front) of the plane. As you reach the end, transfer the pressure to the heel (back) of the plane. Repeat until you have removed the desired amount of wood.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Patching a flat roof

40

Patching a flat roof Small holes in a flat roof can be patched with a specially made primer and patching system. The technique will vary slightly according to the manufacturer; that shown here is typical. Carry out this repair in dry conditions.

Tools and materials Primer and patching system, brush, scissors, flat-roof roller

What is roofing primer? Roofing primer is a (usually) bitumen-based, undercoat that significantly improves the bond between the roof and the waterproofing material being applied to it – in this case a self-adhesive patching system. It also helps

Apply primer to the damaged area

1

Dust off any loose material from the damaged area. Apply primer to the area, overlapping it onto the undamaged part of the roof.

to ensure a long-term, watertight finish. Before applying primer, the surface must be dry, and free of dirt, grease, and mildew. Remove any trace of mildew by washing with a solution that kills mildew spores.

Alterations and repairs

41 Patch-plastering

Adhesive patch sticks quickly

Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Allow the primer to dry if instructed to. Cut some self-adhesive patching material to cover the hole and overlap it onto the sound roof.

3

Apply the patch to the primed area, and smooth it by hand. Then smooth it with a flat-roof roller, ensuring a good seal.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Self-adhesive repair material This can be applied over damaged flashing and other roofing materials for a quick fix. Primer may be needed before application.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Repairing a leak in flashing

42

Repairing a leak in flashing Leaks are most likely where lead flashing is bedded into masonry. The repair shown here can be used if lead is channelled into a wall. Lead wedges can be used instead of clips.

Tools and materials Dusting brush, flat-head screwdriver, flashing clips, lead sealant, sealant dispenser

Shaping lead Lead dressers are used for shaping lead along abutments and over different shaped tile profiles. They have curved and flat faces to suit all roof shapes.

1

Brush away the debris from the joint, removing any deteriorated or cracked mortar or sealant.

Using lead flashing A traditional flashing material, lead is hardwearing, waterproof, and malleable, so it can be easily moulded into the desired profile.

Alterations and repairs

43 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate

Use a flat head screwdriver

Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Use the end of a screwdriver to push flashing clips into the joint to hold lead firmly in place.

3

Using a dispenser, run a continuous bead of waterproof lead sealant along the joint.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Glass-reinforced polyester (GRP) GRP flashing is now commonly used in the building trade as an alternative to lead flashing for valleys and abutments.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Fixing a loose downpipe

44

Fixing a loose downpipe If downpipe bracket attached to masonry becomes loose, joints in the pipe may fracture and cause water to run down the side of the building. This could cause problems with damp, so any loose pipes should be re-fixed immediately.

Tools and materials Drill, screws and masonry wall plugs, filler, paintbrush, paint

Guttering downpipes Straight downpipe sections fit together to take water from roof-level guttering to a drainage system. They are supplied in standard lengths.

Broken fixing

1

Slide the loose downpipe bracket to a new position slightly above or below its previous location.

Gulley drainage For gulley drainage, the downpipe may have a shoe attached at the base of the pipe (as shown) or feed directly into the gulley grate.

Alterations and repairs

45 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar

New fixing position

Removing glass safely Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Hold the bracket in place, and mark where the new fixing will need to go. Then drill a small hole for the screw.

3

Fix the bracket in place with an appropriately sized screw and wall plug (see p.52). Fill in the old hole with masonry filler, and decorate, if required.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Fixing a downpipe to wood If the downpipe is attached to a wooden structure, use a wood drill bit to make a pilot hole (see p.36) so that the screw doesn’t split the wood. Attach the bracket to the surface with a traditional wood screw.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Repointing a leaking verge

46

Repointing a leaking verge The drawback of a pointed verge is that the cement sealing the edge of the tiles may become cracked. This leaves an opening for damp to penetrate, but is easily fixed, as shown here.

Tools and materials Gloves, goggles, cold chisel, mallet, mortar mix, spot board, pointing trowel or gauging trowel, small paintbrush

Cloaked verge tiles Depending on the roof tiles, verge tiles can sometimes be used to lap over the edge of a gable, eliminating the need for mortar.

1

Rake out loose mortar carefully, using a cold chisel and mallet, and taking care not to dislodge or damage any of the tiles.

Heavy-duty chisel The blade shape of this chisel is ideal for removing mortar from brick or block joints in a masonry wall.

Alterations and repairs

47 Patch-plastering Repairing a small hole in a stud wall Repointing mortar Removing glass safely

Mortar should be flush with the tiles

Removing UPVC bead fixings Sticking doors: planing the bottom Rattling doors: moving the strike plate Replacing a tongueand-groove board Replacing a square-edged board

2

Mix up some mortar (or use ready-mixed mortar) and use either a pointing trowel or a gauging trowel to press it into the joint below the tile.

3

Use a dry paintbrush to brush lightly along the edge to tidy the joint and provide a neat finish.

Fixing a loose board Filling a gap between boards Patching a flat roof

Smallest trowel At about 150mm (6in) from heel to tip, the pointing trowel is the smallest of the trowels, and is designed for detailed pointing work.

Repairing a leak in flashing Fixing a loose downpipe Repointing a leaking verge

Kitchens and bathrooms

Drilling a tile without cracking it

50

Drilling a tile without cracking it Many installations in kitchens involve making fixings in a tiled surface. It is essential to use the correct technique for drilling through tiles so they do not crack. The dust created from drilling ceramic tiles can discolour grout and silicone sealant so try to vacuum dust from holes as you drill them.

Tools and materials Felt-tip pen, masking tape, drill and bits, vacuum cleaner, wall plug

Changing a bit Take care when changing a bit after operating a drill: the bit may be hot. Wear gloves to avoid a burn.

1

Mark the point for the fixing using a felt-tip pen. Apply some masking tape over the mark – it should still be visible.

Kitchens and bathrooms

51 Drilling a tile without cracking it

Tape prevents bit sliding

Replacing a door hinge Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

2

Fit a tile drill bit. Remember to switch off any hammer action.

3

Position a vacuum cleaner below the mark and switch it on. Start up the drill on a low speed, and slowly increase the speed. Continued

Selecting a tile bit Tile bits differ in shape to masonry, and wood bits. The spear-shaped tip penetrates a tile, then enlarges the hole to the diameter of the tip’s base.

Drilling a tile without cracking it

52 The hole should be free of dust or loose material

4

Once through the tile, change the bit for a masonry bit or wood bit, depending on the surface below. Drill to the required depth.

Selecting wall plugs Unless you are using masonry screws, a wall plug is required to secure a screw that is inserted into masonry. The plugs shown here are masonry plugs, and the different colours

5

Remove the masking tape from the tile, then plug the hole with the appropriate wall plug, and insert the fixing as required.

relate to their width, or gauge. Wall plugs are also needed to make strong fixings in hollow walls such as stud walls; these are of a different design from those used in masonry.

Replacing a door hinge Door hinges themselves tend not to break – if they do, you can simply replace them. What is more likely to happen is that the hinge plate will loosen through wear and tear. If this happens, you can re-fix the hinge above or below its existing position.

53 Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge Adjusting a drawer runner

The hinge plate is placed below its old position

Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

Tools and materials Screwdriver, tape measure, pencil, drill, bradawl, hinge-cutting bit, filler, paintbrush, paint

1

Unscrew the loosened hinge plate and remove it. Mark off a new position where you can get a firmer fixing – slightly lower in this case – and re-fix the plate. Continued

Easy-fit door hinges All self-assembly kitchens use easy-fit hinges (as shown) and they usually have pre-drilled fixing positions. Most manufacturers supply accessories for each unit.

Replacing a door hinge

54

Choose the correct size of hinge cutter

2

Measure off the new hinge position on the door using the new plate position as a guide.

A

B

3

Adjusting the kitchen doors The doors on the kitchen unit can be moved slightly by tweaking the hinge settings. Tightening or loosening the screw “A”, will move the door to the right or left. To position

Use a hinge-cutting bit to drill out the recess for the new hinge position. Take care not to drill too deeply.

the door farther away from the unit, loosen the central screw in the hinge plate (marked “B”), and adjust the door accordingly. Re-tighten the screw to secure the door.

Kitchens and bathrooms

55 Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge

The plate is fixed securely in its new position

Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

4

Make an indent with the bradawl (see p.56), then screw the hinge in place, making sure that it sits perfectly flush against the inside of the door.

Drilling hinge recesses Designed for cutting holes for kitchen door units, a hinge cutter is inserted into the chuck of a drill in the same way as any other bit.

5

Re-hang the door. The old hinge plate and hinge holes can be filled and painted if required.

Adjusting a drawer runner

56

Adjusting a drawer runner Drawer runners may require adjustment because of wear or simply because they were misaligned when the unit was constructed. Adjustment is a straightforward process of re-fixing the runner.

Tools and materials Screwdriver, mini spirit level, bradawl

Why use a bradawl? This tool is used for marking and starting off fixing points. Making an indent guides the screw into position and helps to prevent it from slipping.

Leave in place if possible

1

If the runner is not level, remove all the screws fixing the runner, except for the far left screw. It will be easier to make the drawer level if one screw remains in place.

Kitchens and bathrooms

57 Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

2

Position a level on the top of the runner and use a bradawl to mark new fixing holes.

Fitted drawer runners Runners are usually made of metal, and are fitted on drawers and units when supplied as part of a fitted kitchen.

3

Screw the runner back in place. Reposition the drawer and check for improved operation. Re-adjust if necessary.

Repairing a laminate worktop

58

Repairing a laminate worktop It is easy to repair a laminate worktop by disguising the damage. Jointing compounds (made of a mixture of adhesive and filler) are usually supplied with a fitted kitchen and are the best option for hiding dents or scratches. For broken edges, the best idea is to re-attach them as shown here.

Tools and materials Contact adhesive, piece of wood or plastic, masking tape, pencil or crayon

Different types of worktop Worktops are commonly made from solid wood or stone, veneered chipboard, and stone-effect materials. Solid wood and veneered worktops, and some stone-effect

Use a small stick to apply the adhesive

1

Apply contact adhesive to both the worktop edge and the broken section of laminate. Use a piece of wood or plastic.

types, are sold in standard sizes and can be fitted on site. Worktops made of solid stone, such as marble or granite, are generally supplied and fitted by specialist manufacturers.

Kitchens and bathrooms

59 Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge

Press down firmly in place

Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat

Carefully neaten the edges

2

Wait for the adhesive to become tacky and stick the piece in place – use masking tape to hold it down securely.

What is masking tape? This low-tack adhesive tape is easy to remove, and it doesn’t leave any marks. It also can be used to protect surfaces and to create straight lines when painting.

3

Once the adhesive has dried, remove the masking tape and use a pencil or crayon to disguise any white edges along the join.

Adjusting the water level in a cistern

Unblocking a trap

60

Unblocking a trap A trap is a plastic or metal fitting that traps a pool or water in the u-bend section of the waste pipe to keep drain smells out. A basin trap is shown here. Some traps have what is known as a “cleaning eye” on the side. This unscrews to allow cleaning access without removing the trap.

Tools and materials Bowl or bucket, old toothbrush, replacement washers

Traps and their uses All waste systems require some form of trap. Traps have a U-shaped section that provides a barrier to separate fittings from the drainage system. The U-shaped design means that

Unscrew to gain access

1

Undo the basin trap, after positioning an empty bowl beneath it to catch any trapped water.

whenever water is discharged through a trap, some remains in the U-section. This creates the barrier that stops smells and bacteria entering the house through the drainage system.

Kitchens and bathrooms

61 Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat

Replace washer if worn

2

Remove debris and wash the trap in a bucket of clean water. An old toothbrush is an ideal cleaning tool.

Different types of trap Most traps are held in position by plastic compression fittings. It is important to have a design that suits your needs. An S-trap, a P-trap, and a shallow bath trap are shown here (from left to right).

3

Replace the trap. It is worth replacing worn washers while the trap is disassembled to prevent future leaks.

Adjusting the water level in a cistern

Unblocking a toilet

62

Unblocking a toilet If flush water rises to the rim and then drains slowly, the toilet trap or drain is blocked. To unblock these, use an auger or plunger – the former burrows into the blockage and loosens it up, while the latter uses suction to release the blockage.

Tools and materials Auger or plunger

Removing an exterior blockage A drain and rod set, like the one shown here, is used to unblock exterior drainage systems. A corkscrew (top right) or a plunger (bottom right) are attached to the end of the first rod and then

Release the required length

1

Pull a section of the auger out of the drum.

used to push into the blockage to break it up, allowing free water flow. Extra lengths of rod can be added as required.

Kitchens and bathrooms

63 Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge

Ensure the nut is secure

Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

2

Tighten the retaining nut on top of the auger body.

Air pressure plunger The cup section of a plunger is fitted over a drain outlet. Pumping the handle up and down builds pressure and suction, to release any blockage.

3

Rotate the drum of the auger so it burrows into the waste system to dislodge the blockage.

Using a water jet A hydraulic plunger uses a pumping action to force a high-pressure jet of water into the blockage in order to dislodge it.

Adjusting a loose toilet seat

64

Adjusting a loose toilet seat Over time a toilet seat can work itself loose, making using it uncomfortable to use and putting pressure on the fixings. There is usually no need to purchase a new seat and lid; you can simply adjust the seat so that it is fastens securely to the bowl of the toilet. If you are replacing a toilet seat, the procedure will be the same.

Tools and materials Screwdriver

Buying a toilet seat If you are buying a new seat for your toilet, first measure the existing seat. Measure from the centre of the screws holding the seat in place, to the front edge of the seat, and choose a seat of similar dimensions.

1

Locate the nuts holding the seat and lid to the pan.

Kitchens and bathrooms

65 Drilling a tile without cracking it Replacing a door hinge Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

2

Place the screwdriver into the screw, and unscrew the nut that is attached to the screw. Adjust the seat until it is correctly positioned.

3

Tighten the nut and then check that the toilet seat and lid are secure.

Adjusting the water level in a cistern

66

Adjusting the water level in a cistern A toilet cistern holds the flush mechanism and water, which empties into a pan that is attached to the waste pipe. When a cistern overflows, it is usually because the float-arm valve has been set at an incorrect level. The way to correct this will depend on the type of float-arm valve you have.

Tools and material Screwdriver

Torbeck float arm To adjust the water level, rotate the float clockwise or anticlockwise to move it up or down the float arm.

Controlling water flow in a cistern Most inlet valves are termed float-pattern or float-arm valves, and they control the flow of water into the cistern. The float drops when the toilet is flushed. As the float descends, a valve in its arm opens to allow

water into the cistern. Then, as the cistern refills, the float arm rises and returns to its original position, shutting off the valve.

Kitchens and bathrooms

67 Drilling a tile without cracking it

Float arm adjustment nut

Ball float

Replacing a door hinge Adjusting a drawer runner Repairing a laminate worktop Unblocking a trap Unblocking a toilet Adjusting a loose toilet seat Adjusting the water level in a cistern

Modern plastic float arm To raise or lower the water level, simply adjust the plastic screw and nut positioned on the float arm.

Traditional metal float arm To raise or lower the water level, either bend the float arm, or move the float up or down by loosening the screw holding it in place.

Decorating and finishing

Removing a drip

70

Removing a drip Many paints and finishes can be applied using either a roller, a paint brush, a paint pad, or a paint sprayer. Drips are caused by poor painting technique – usually overloading the chosen tool during application.

Tools and materials Scraper, sandpaper, paintbrush, paint

Loading a brush Good brush technique is essential to achieve an even coverage. To avoid overloading the brush, only dip it into the paint to one-third of the bristle

Remove unsightly drips

1

Drips may look unsightly but they can easily be removed with a scraper and some sandpaper.

length for water-based paint, or onequarter of the bristle length for oil-based paint. Then, scrape off any excess on the rim of the container.

Decorating and finishing

71 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout

Do not use sandpaper that is too coarse

Replacing silcone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Use a scraper to scrape back the paint drips. Be careful not to damage the surface underneath.

3

Using a fine grade of paper, sand the area to a smooth finish. Repaint the sanded area.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Removing wrinkled paint

72

Removing wrinkled paint A wrinkled effect is created by painting successive coats too quickly, and not allowing adequate drying time. It can also be caused by extremes of temperature while the paint is drying.

Tools and materials Heat gun or a chemical stripper, scraper, sandpaper, paintbrush, paint

Working safely with a heat gun Take great care removing paint with a heat gun. Wear goggles and a respiratory mask, and perhaps gloves. Take all other precautions that are advised by the tool’s

1

This problem requires stripping, sanding, and repainting in order to achieve the desired finish.

manufacturer. Do not hold the gun over the wood for too long, to avoid the risk of scorching it or even setting it on fire.

Decorating and finishing

73 Removing a drip

Direct the nozzle at the wood surface

Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout

Sand down to the wood

Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Strip paint completely from the affected surface using either a heat gun or a chemical stripper.

3

Sand down the area with sandpaper and repaint. You could also use a sanding block (see below).

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

How a heat gun works A heat gun softens and blisters paint, and therefore makes it much easier to remove the old paint from the wooden surface.

Making a sanding block You can make a sanding block by folding sandpaper around a squared-off block of wood. It is easy to grip, and each side has a sanding surface.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Removing brush marks

74

Removing brush marks High-quality application tools are essential for an even paint finish, but poor application technique can cause prominent brush marks to be left on the painted surface. This problem can occur on all surfaces.

Tools and materials Palm sander, cloth, paintbrush, paint, wood stain

1

Good painting technique Most paints, especially if they have a sheen or are oil-based, require “laying off” to remove tool impressions from the finish. To do this, glide the unloaded painting tool very lightly

Obvious brush marks in different directions can make surfaces look uneven and poorly finished.

over the wet paint, just touching the newly coated surface. The principle of laying off is the same for rollers and, to a lesser extent, for pads.

Decorating and finishing

75 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant

Press lightly with the sander

Do not overload the brush

Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Machine-sand the area with a palm sander, applying light pressure. Wipe the area clean of dust with a damp cloth.

3

Repaint the area, keeping in mind the laying off technique described opposite. If using a natural wood finish, take care to apply stain with the grain.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Machine palm sanders This is a small tool, which often has an orbital action, for use on small wooden surfaces or in awkward tight corners.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Improving poor coverage

76

Improving poor coverage Poor coverage is caused by applying the wrong number of coats of paint. Sometimes this problem combines with prominent streaks in the paint caused by paint build-up on roller edges during application.

Paint build-up

Poor coverage

Tools and materials Sandpaper, roller, paint

Grades of sandpaper Sandpaper grading is based upon the number of abrasive particles per square inch that make up the sandpaper. The more coarse the grit, the lower the number of particles. Sandpapers are commonly

1

Poor coverage results in a patchy appearance, as shown above, therefore the surface needs to be repainted.

graded as coarse (40–60 grit), medium (80–120), fine (150–180), very fine (220–240), extra fine (280–320) and super fine (360 and above). Sanding with progressively finer grits leaves a smooth finish.

Decorating and finishing

77 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Sand the area in order to remove any paint ridges that have been created by roller edge trails.

3

Recoat the area using the correct number of coats for the surface, remembering to “lay off” the area (see p.74).

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Choosing the best roller sleeve To avoid poor coverage, it is advisable to use good quality rollers. The best roller sleeves are made of pure sheepskin. Other sleeve materials are available, but may produce a rough finish.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Replacing grout

78

Replacing grout Discoloured or deteriorating grout can be replaced in order to brighten a tiled finish and reinstate waterproof properties. Pay particular attention to the grout you purchase, as some are more waterproof than others.

Tools and materials Grout raker, vacuum cleaner, grout, grout spreader, sponge

Using the grout raker A grout raker is the best tool for removing old grout. It is fitted with a thin grit-edged blade that may be replaced when worn down.

1

Remove the old grout from the joints using a grout raker, taking care not to damage the tile edges.

Decorating and finishing

79 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks

New grout is pressed into the joint

Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Vacuum out the joints to remove dust and all the old grouting, before applying the new grout.

3

Use a grout spreader to press the grout into the joints between the tiles, then wipe off any excess grout, while it is still wet, with a sponge.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Filling the joints A grout spreader’s rubber blade presses grout into the gap between the joints, and its straight edge limits overspill onto the tiles.

Finishing the grouting To create a smooth, neat finish, run a grout shaper along the grout after it has been applied.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Reviving tired grout

80

Reviving tired grout Where grout has deteriorated in terms of colour, but is still in good physical condition, a tube of grout reviver can be used to restore it to a clean, bright colour.

Discoloured grout

Tools and materials Sponge, sugar soap, grout reviver, cloth

What is grout reviver? Grout reviver is a gritty, paint-like substance that is applied over grout to improve its appearance. It usually comes in a tube with a built-in applicator consisting of a circular sponge with a hole through its centre.

1

Wash down the tiled surface thoroughly with a sugar soap solution and a clean sponge or cloth.

Decorating and finishing

81 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile

Remove only the excess reviver

Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

When the grout is dry, generously apply the grout reviver along the joints of the tiles.

3

Check the manufacturer’s guidelines to see when to wipe off the excess grout reviver. Use a damp cloth.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Preventing grout discolouration Use a liquid sealant to stop the grout from discolouring and keep the finish clean. Leave grout to dry fully before applying this sealant.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Replacing silicone sealant

82

Replacing silicone sealant Junctions between tiles and other surfaces, such as a bath or shower, are normally sealed with silicone sealant, which can deteriorate over time. Once a seal begins to allow water penetration, it must be replaced.

Tools and materials Window scraper or sealant remover, masking tape, sealant

Where to seal Apply a waterproof seal to any area where tiling meets a bath, basin, sink, or kitchen worktop, and around the outer edge of a shower cubicle panel.

Be careful not to damage tiles

1

Scrape away the old sealant. A window scraper is ideal, or use a proprietary sealant remover.

Health and safety Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using an adhesive or sealant, because the chemicals involved can be dangerous if not used correctly.

Decorating and finishing

83 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage

Use a dispenser for even distribution

Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Stick masking tape 2mm (1/12in) from each side of the joint. This ensures that the sealant will have straight edges.

3

Apply silicone sealant along the gap, and smooth with a wetted finger. Remove tape and smooth again if necessary.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Applying sealants and adhesives Sealants and adhesives are available in cartridges that load into standard dispensers. Squeezing the trigger releases a bead of the material.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Replacing a broken tile

84

Replacing a broken tile You will want to replace broken or cracked tiles to maintain the appearance of a room. It is also important to replace them because damaged tiles can lead to leaks in the room, which can damage walls and floors.

Tools and materials Grout raker, drill, gloves, goggles, club hammer, cold chisel, scraper, tile adhesive, adhesive spreader, spacers, grout

Purchasing tiles When possible, buy tiles of one colour with the same batch number. Shuffle tiles of the same colour from different boxes, so that any colour variation will not show if a tile has to be replaced.

Damaged tile surface

1

Use a grout raker to remove the grout from around the edges of the broken tile.

Decorating and finishing

85 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile

Do not drill into the surface below the tile

Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Check for electricity or water supplies using a detector (see p.15). Weaken the surface of the tile even further by drilling a number of holes through it.

3

Use a club hammer and a cold chisel to remove sections of the broken tile. Be sure to wear gloves and protective goggles.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Continued

Types of tiles Most tiles are ceramic – they are made of clay, have a glazed, smooth surface that is easy to clean, and are durable. Glazes are generally coloured to provide decorative options. Some glazed tiles are prone to

crazing which may affect their waterproofing properties, making them unsuitable for bathrooms and showers. Natural stone is porous, so in areas where there is water, such as bathrooms, waterproof sealant must be used.

Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Replacing a broken tile

86 Remove old adhesive

Place appropriatelysized spacers into the joints

4

Using a scraper, remove the old adhesive from the wall. Apply tile adhesive to the back of a replacement tile using a spreader.

Using plastic spacers These plastic crosses are placed between tiles to provide equal-sized joints. The size of the spacer determines the thickness of the joint.

5

Position the tile, checking that it sits flush. Use spacers to maintain grout gaps. When dry, remove the spacers and grout the joints.

Repairing a shower cubicle If water seepage has caused the wall around a shower cubicle to decay, tiles will start to become loose. The steps here are for repairs to a stud wall. If the studs themselves are decaying, you will need to remove sections of the wall and rebuild as required.

87 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint

Sound plasterboard

Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile

Damp plasterboard

Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

Tools and materials Scraper, drywall saw, claw hammer, heater, waterresistant board, silicone sealant, sealant gun, glass fibre tape, tile adhesive, tiles, grout

1

Use a scraper to remove tiles and grout from the affected area, exposing a halftile’s width of sound plasterboard. Cut a line at this height using a drywall saw. Continued

Preventing shower leaks Leaking shower cubicles are a common problem, and in most cases, the causes can be traced to poorly grouted tile joints and/or degraded silicone seals around the shower tray or screen. The junctions created by valves

and pipes are also susceptible to this problem, and it only requires a small section of grout or sealant to be missing for water penetration to cause problems. These areas should be checked regularly and resealed as required.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Repairing a shower cubicle

88

Remove all the old fixings from the stud

2

Use the claw of a hammer to remove old fixings. Leave studs exposed for a few days, to dry. A heater may speed up this process.

Uses for cement-board Cement-board is not technically a plasterboard, but has similar properties and uses. It is a strong, moistureresistant base board, often used as a subfloor, beneath ceramic tiles, or as a backing for wall tiles. Board

Accurately measure and cut the moistureresistant board

3

Cut a piece of cement-based, waterresistant board to size, and screw it onto the studs.

thicknesses and sizes vary. Thick board will be needed if there is a large gap between studs or joists.

Decorating and finishing

89 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout

Work slowly to ensure good coverage

Reviving tired grout

Tile adhesive

Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

4

Seal around the edges of the board with silicone sealant. For the best result use a sealant dispenser.

5

Use tile adhesive to fix glass fibre tape to the join between the new and old boards. Then retile and regrout the area. Re-apply sealant to the tray and corner joints.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Using glass fibre tape Because of its honeycombed design and strength, glass fibre tape is ideal for reinforcing the seam between the old and new boards. It is also waterproof, making it perfect for bathroom repairs.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Repairing tongue-and-groove panelling

90

Repairing tongue-and-groove panelling Tongue-and-groove boards interlock, which makes it difficult to repair a small area: releasing one damaged board would mean releasing all the boards. But using this method enables you to replace just the damaged board.

Tools and materials Drill, drywall saw, workbench, chisel, new board, hammer, nails, filler, sandpaper, paintbrush, paint

Removing panelling Where the board crosses battens on the wall, it may be easier to use a hammer and chisel to cut the board. If the board is very thick, it may be easier to remove the

Damaged board

1

Drill a hole close to one edge of the damaged board, then insert a drywall saw into the hole and cut all the way down the joint between the boards.

tongue with a saw rather than with a drywall saw. When a natural-wood finish is needed, consider using grab adhesive to fix the board in place rather than nails.

Decorating and finishing

91 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks

Batten

Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant

Replacement panel has had tongue removed

Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Use a chisel to lever out the damaged section of board. Be careful not to damage neighbouring panels.

3

Cut a new section of board to fit. Secure it in a workbench and use a hammer and chisel to remove the tongue so that you can position it. Continued

Understanding chisels Chisels are general-purpose woodcutting tools, but are used mostly to remove the waste from joints or to pare and trim them to size. The size of

a chisel refers to the width of its cutting edge. Although a vast range of chisels is available, a small selection should enable you to tackle most DIY tasks.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Repairing tongue-and-groove panelling

92

Nail into batten Remove excess filler before sanding

4

Nail the new board in place, fixing it through its face, because there is no interlocking tongue for secret fixing.

What type of nail to use? The most basic of fixings, nails are essential for most construction jobs. Common nails for general use are available in many sizes – choose one that is at least three times longer than the depth of the thinner

5

Fill the fixing holes with wood filler, and sand when dry. Then decorate the board to match the surrounding surface.

material being nailed. For the above job oval wire nails have been used, as the oval cross-section reduces the splitting of the wood. Nail-punching (see p.37) should not be necessary, but can be carried out if required.

Replacing a section of skirting board

93

If a short run of skirting is damaged, the simplest option may be to replace the entire length. On a longer run, however, it is often worthwhile to cut out and replace just the damaged section.

Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant

Guide line

Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

Tools and materials Pry bar, wooden blocks, pencil, spirit level, mitre block, panel saw, nails, hammer, wood glue, grab adhesive, skirting, filler, paintbrush, paint

1

Pry the damaged section from the wall and place wooden blocks between the skirting and wall. Draw guide lines on either side of the damaged area. Continued

Pocket-sized level Designed to be used where a carpenter’s level is too long, or complex, a mini spirit level is perfect for this type of job. Some models feature a magnetic face which can be stuck to metal.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Replacing a section of skirting board

94

The skirting is cut at a 45-degree angle to the wall

2

Using a mitre block and panel saw, carefully cut down each guide line, using short, accurate strokes.

Sawing with a mitre block A mitre block has channels to guide a saw (usually a tenon saw) through material at precisely the correct angle for a mitred joint – 45 degrees.

3

Remove the wooden blocks from behind the skirting board and re-fix the existing skirting to the wall with nails.

Decorating and finishing

95 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks

Evenly apply adhesive across the back of the board

Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

4

Using the cut section as a guide, measure and cut a new piece of skirting for the gap. Apply wood glue to its mitred ends and grab adhesive across the back.

5

Position the board, allowing the glue and adhesive to fasten to the skirting board, and wall. Strengthen the mitred ends with panel pins, and decorate the surface.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Matching existing skirting board One way to get a match for long sections of skirting is to cut medium-density fibreboard (MDF) to size and use a router-cutter to create a profile that matches the shape of the undamaged skirting board. Another option

is to attach decorative mouldings to the top of timber. For an entire room, a close match to that in the rest of the house will pass unnoticed because the two designs are not sitting side by side.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Repairing an external mitre

96

Repairing an external mitre External mitres can sometimes crack open and become unsightly. In most cases, this is because the joint was not properly glued and fixed in place when it was fitted.

The mitre joint has come apart

Tools and materials needed Drill, wood glue, hammer, panel pins or thin screws, wood filler, paintbrush, paint

Making a mitre joint Mitre joints are made by joining two surfaces at an angle other than 90 degrees (usually at a 45-degree angle) to form a 90-degree corner angle. Make sure you cut the material in the correct direction when

1

Drill pilot holes (see p.36) through the top and bottom of the joint, making sure that you drill into both mitred edges of the corner.

mitring internal and external corners. The mitre joint is a popular method of joining, as it is easy and attractive, but external mitre joints may become weakened. However, they can easily be repaired or strengthened.

Decorating and finishing

97 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant

Fill in the fixing hole or paint the nails

Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Apply wood glue to the cracked joint, and wipe away any excess with a cloth.

3

Hammer the panel pins through the pilot holes to fix the mitre in position or, for larger skirting boards, use thin-gauge screws. Decorate over the new fixings.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Repairing a laminate floor

98

Repairing a laminate floor If a damaged section of laminate flooring is near the edge of a room, it can simply be replaced with a new piece. If this is not possible, a small dent or scratch can be repaired using a laminate repair compound kit, as shown here.

Tools and materials Scissors, repair compound kit, plastic scraper, metal scraper

1

Laying laminate flooring Most laminate and real wood floors are laid by dry-clipping boards together. Clipping mechanisms vary, but the principles are the same. Whether you need a damp-proof membrane or

Cut off the nozzles on the two-part syringe. Squeeze the repair compound into a tray, where the two elements will mix together.

underlay will depend on the type of flooring you are laying, but if in doubt, do lay one. Where possible, lay flooring before fitting skirting board so that it can cover the expansion gap.

Decorating and finishing

99 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage

Make sure you use enough compound to repair the damage

Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Press the repair compound into the damaged area using the plastic scraper included in the repair kit.

3

Use a metal scraper to remove any excess compound from the area before it has time to dry.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Using repair compounds Repair compounds are widely available, and come in many colours. The various manufactures will have differing conditions of use, so it is advisable to read their instructions carefully.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Patch-repairing carpet damage

100

Patch-repairing carpet damage Damage to carpet can be difficult to remedy. However, as well as using cleaners, specks of paint can be removed with a craft knife, and a small area of damage can be replaced with a patch, if you have offcuts of the carpet.

Tools and materials needed Scissors, craft knife, metal lid or similar object, spray adhesive

1

Choosing carpet Carpets are generally hessian- or foam-backed, and vary in quality, depending on what they are made of. Most brands have a grading system for suitable use, such as light domestic, for

Cut a patch of carpet to a size that is larger than the area that needs to be replaced.

bedrooms, or heavy domestic, for hallways. Natural fibre floor coverings such as jute or coir are also available, and also vary in durability.

Decorating and finishing

101 Removing a drip

Hold the knife securely so that it doesn’t slip and cause injury

Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant

Place new carpet patch in the hole

Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Find a metal lid or other circular object slightly larger than the repair area. Cut around it, down through the patch and the carpet below.

3

Remove the cut circle of damaged carpet, and replace it with the circle of new carpet. You may wish to spray adhesive on to the back of the new carpet patch.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Features of the craft knife Heavy-duty craft knifes are designed for cutting all types of carpet and vinyl. Depending on the model, the blade will be adjustable for depth, and when it becomes dull, it can either be replaced or the end

may be snapped off from the rest of the blade. It should also have a locking device to hold the blade in place.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Patch-repairing vinyl flooring

102

Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Although hardwearing, vinyl can be damaged by sharp objects or by heat, such as a cigarette burn. Re-covering an entire floor is expensive, but where vinyl has a pattern, such as “tiling”, it can be used to aid the repair process. If you use this technique, be sure that the junctions between the patch and existing vinyl are firmly stuck down. Otherwise people may trip over them. Tools and materials Scissors, duct tape, craft knife, double-sided tape, seam roller

Laying sheet vinyl Hardwearing and easily cleaned, vinyl is often used in bathrooms and kitchens. To increase its waterproof qualities, run a bead of silicone around the edge.

Duct tape holds the new vinyl in place

1

Cut a section of vinyl, to a size that is larger than the damaged “tile” area. Tape this piece over the damaged area, making sure that it is aligned with the pattern.

Decorating and finishing

103 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint

The blade should cut through both layers of vinyl

Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

2

Use a craft knife to cut through both layers of vinyl, using the “tile” edge as a guide line.

3

Remove both sections of vinyl. As you lift out the damaged section, the cut shape will be revealed underneath. Continued

Cutting irregular shapes For irregular shapes such as the outline of a door’s architrave, a profile gauge gives the best guide line. If possible, place its corner where the tile’s corner will go; or measure the gap from the corner to profile

gauge. Push the gauge into the irregular edge, keeping it flat on the floor and butted up completely into the irregular edge.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Patch-repairing vinyl flooring

104

Make sure the vinyl section is level with the floor

Butt the double sided tape to the edge of the vinyl

4

Apply double-sided tape around the edges of the revealed section of floor.

Precision cutting flooring A vinyl cutter is a precision tool for cutting vinyl flooring. When cutting larger pieces, it might be better to use one of these, rather than a craft knife.

5

Position the new vinyl section. Press down its edges, as well as those of the remaining old section. A seam roller is ideal for this.

Using a seam roller More often used to gently press wallpaper seams to ensure good adhesion, a seam roller is also ideal for fixing newly placed patches of vinyl.

Replacing a broken floor tile

105

Floor tiles can get cracked due to wear and tear, or through damage if a heavy object is dropped on them. Replacing a single tile is more cost-effective than re-tiling an entire floor. Wear goggles while drilling into the tile, in case any shards fly towards you.

Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silicone sealant

Grout raker

Replacing a broken tile Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

Tools and materials Grout raker, drill, goggles, gloves, club hammer, cold chisel, scraper, spirit level, tile adhesive, grout, sponge

1

Remove grout from around the edge of the tile. A grout raker is perfect for this process. Continued

Buying floor tiles Hard tiles for floors are available in various sizes and materials. When tiling a floor, buy about 10 per cent more tiles to take into account wastage.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Replacing a broken floor tile

106

Remove all traces of the old adhesive

2

Drill a series of holes into the broken tile. This helps to break it up, making it easier to remove.

Testing adhesive cover If you are laying an entire floor, rather than just replacing a broken tile, apply the adhesive to the flooring, but not to the tiles. Press tiles down just hard enough for the adhesive to make contact with the entire back face of the

3

Remove the broken tile with a cold chisel and club hammer, then scrape the old adhesive off the floor surface.

tile. Tap the tile to test – if there is a hollow sound, some areas are not in contact. Take up the tile, and add more adhesive to the hollow areas and allow to dry. Drying time depends on the adhesive, the flooring, and the tiles.

Decorating and finishing

107 Removing a drip Removing wrinkled paint Removing brush marks Improving poor coverage Replacing grout Reviving tired grout Replacing silcone sealant Replacing a broken tile

Lower the tile gently into position

Repairing a shower cubicle Repairing tongueand-groove panelling

4

Apply adhesive to the back of the new tile and position it. Use a spirit level to make sure it sits flush with the surrounding tiles.

5

Allow the adhesive to dry, then grout the new tile. Clean off any excess with a sponge.

Replacing a section of skirting board Repairing an external mitre Repairing a laminate floor

Ensuring correct alignment The carpenter’s level contains three vials, and is the most versatile spirit level available. The vial in the middle determines the horizontal level, while the end vials determine the vertical level. One of the end vials may

be adjusted when it is necessary to measure particular angles. These levels are available in various sizes, ranging from 450mm (1ft 6in) to 1.8m (6ft) in length.

Patch-repairing carpet damage Patch-repairing vinyl flooring Replacing a broken floor tile

Outdoor repairs

Levelling block paving

110

Levelling block paving Block paving can often sink if it has not been laid correctly. Because it is generally laid on sand, rectifying the problem involves lifting the sunken blocks and re-seating them on more sand.

Tools and materials Batten, chalk, flat-head screwdriver, trowel, kiln-dried sand, brush

Bricks should sit flush under the batten

1

Pavers and edging tiles Paving blocks (top) are often brick-shaped, and common bricks may be used as pavers. There are many different styles of paver that can be used for landscaping. Most designs of hard

Hold a batten across the area, and mark with chalk any blocks that do not sit flush with the underside of the batten.

landscaping, such as paths and patios, are improved by a retaining edge (bottom). If you are laying any edging next to a lawn, lay it slightly lower so that you can mow over the top.

Outdoor repairs

111 Levelling block paving

Remove excess sand to get an even surface

Patching tarmac Re-laying a gravel path Repairing concrete Replacing a broken slab Repairing a loose fence panel

2

Prise up the blocks with an old flat-head screwdriver. Add more sand with a trowel, then replace the blocks and check they are level.

Laying pavers and slabs The pattern chosen for laying slabs or pavers is very much a personal choice. Manufacturers often provide brochures showing the various options. You can buy

3

Reposition the blocks, checking again with the batten that they are level, and brush kiln-dried sand into the joints.

cut or curved slabs to create alternative designs, and you may choose to pave the area with any combination of pavers, slabs, gravel, and cobbles you wish.

Patching tarmac

112

Patching tarmac Relaying a tarmac drive is a job for the professionals, but patching holes is relatively straightforward. Use cold-mix tarmac that can be bought by the bag.

Tools and materials Brush, cold-mix tarmac, trowel, wooden post or rammer

Sturdy foot protection Good quality work boots are important to provide protection against accidents involving the metal rammer, and from any falling objects. Those with steel toe caps give the best protection.

1

Use a brush to remove any loose debris from the damaged drive.

Outdoor repairs

113 Levelling block paving

Cold-mix tarmac is best used on lesser trafficked surfaces

Patching tarmac Re-laying a gravel path Repairing concrete Replacing a broken slab Repairing a loose fence panel

Wear protective footwear

2

Trowel in some cold-mix tarmac, leaving it slightly proud of the surrounding surface.

Using a rammer A rammer is useful for compacting tarmac, or rubble. It has a heavy steel shaft, and the small surface area of its base ensures that it applies high pressure.

3

Compress the tarmac using a wooden post offcut, or a rammer if you have one.

Re-laying a gravel path

114

Re-laying a gravel path The main problem with gravel paths is weeds. They can be controlled by weedkillers, but a longer-lasting solution is to use a weedproof membrane.

Tools and materials Shovel, polythene sheets, weed membrane, craft knife or scissors, rake

Weeds can take root in the path base under the gravel

1

Move the gravel out of the path. Pile it up alongside the path, ideally on polythene sheets.

Spades and shovels Generally, spades (top) are lighter than shovels and have a straighter, sharper blades, making them well suited for digging into surfaces. The side edges of a shovel’s blade are curved,

making it more suitable for lifting large loads. A shovel (bottom) is ideal for lifting loose material, such as gravel, and perfect for loading cement mixers with sand and cement.

Outdoor repairs

115 Levelling block paving Patching tarmac Re-laying a gravel path Repairing concrete Replacing a broken slab Repairing a loose fence panel

Fit the membrane accurately

2

Roll out a proprietary weedproof membrane along the path base, cutting as required. Overlap joins by at least 100mm (4in).

How does a weedproof membrane work? Easy to size with a craft knife or scissors, the layer of weedproof membrane will stop weeds taking root in the path base. It also allows water to drain through to the base, but not back up to the gravel.

3

Move the gravel back onto the membrane, and distribute evenly using a rake.

Repairing concrete

116

Repairing concrete Hairline cracks in concrete pads are no problem, but larger cracks should be filled. Excavate the crack to a reasonable depth, to give the repair more surface area to stick to. Repairs to the edge of a slab are shown here. Remove debris to provide a secure surface for the adhesive

Tools and materials Brush, PVA, plank of wood, bricks, concrete, trowel

What is concrete? Like mortar (see p.120) concrete is made of a mixture of aggregates and cement. However, concrete contains coarser aggregates, making it suitable for foundations and hard landscaping.

1

Remove loose debris and dust out the hole as necessary. Apply some dilute PVA to the rough concrete surface.

Outdoor repairs

117 Levelling block paving

Align the plank with the edge of the path

Patching tarmac Re-laying a gravel path Repairing concrete Replacing a broken slab Repairing a loose fence panel

2

Use bricks to support a section of plank that will hold the concrete in place while it dries. Mix the concrete as the manufacturer recommends.

Which adhesive to use? Many projects require some kind of adhesive or sealant, and it is important to use one that is most appropriate for any particular task. Polyvinyl acetate (PVA) in concentrated form is a thick white liquid that can

3

Fill the crack with concrete until it is level with the surrounding area. Allow the concrete to dry before removing the bricks and plank.

be used as an all-purpose adhesive. It may be used diluted (as in this case) or neat, as a glue, a surface sealer, a bonding agent, or a primer. Waterproof PVA is also available.

Replacing a broken slab

118

Replacing a broken slab Paving slabs can become unstable or may crack due to poor laying technique, frost, or a fault introduced during manufacture. In whichever case, the slab needs to be lifted and relaid. Laying slabs on a bed of sand is a more straightforward procedure than that shown here, where they have been laid on mortar.

Tools and materials Gloves, goggles, pry bar, block of wood, lump hammer, bolster chisel, trowel, mortar, new slab, spirit level, rubber mallet

Block of wood provides leverage

1

Maintaining paving Paving, along with other exterior surfaces such as decking, can become covered in algae; this is slippery and potentially dangerous. Pressurewashing these areas at least once or twice a year

Use a pry bar to lift the old slab. If it is concreted in place, break it with a lump hammer and a bolster chisel. Wear protective goggles and gloves.

should keep the problem at bay. In some cases, particularly in damp or shaded areas, fungicidal washes may be useful to prevent algae from quickly regrowing.

Outdoor repairs

119 Levelling block paving

Hold the blade of the chisel at an angle to the old mortar when removing it

Patching tarmac Re-laying a gravel path Repairing concrete Replacing a broken slab Repairing a loose fence panel

2

Chip away the old mortar with a bolster chisel and lump hammer, and remove the debris from the slab bed.

3

Lay a new bed of mortar for the replacement slab, levelling it off with a trowel. Continued

Using a lump hammer The lump hammer is the heaviest one-handed hammer. With a large striking face, it is commonly used with either a bolster chisel, or a cold chisel, to split bricks or slabs.

Replacing a broken slab

120 Use the level to ensure the slab does not sit proud of the others

4

Position the slab, checking that it is level with those around it. Tap it in to place with the rubber mallet.

Ready-mixed mortar Mortar is a mixture of cement, sand, and sometimes lime, used as an adhesive for masonry and constructional members, such as fence posts. Ready-mixed mortar comes in bag sizes appropriate

5

Repoint the new slab with mortar, or a dry mix as required, using a pointing trowel.

for small-scale repair jobs: mortar mix is a generalpurpose mortar; slab mix is generally used for laying paving; concrete mix is a general-purpose concrete mix, and post-mix is used for erecting fence posts.

Repairing a loose fence panel Rotten wooden fences are generally best replaced, but damaged sections can be strengthened using clips or brackets. If a joint is loose, consider inserting wedges around the joint to strengthen it.

121 Levelling block paving

Arris rail

Patching tarmac Re-laying a gravel path Repairing concrete Replacing a broken slab Repairing a loose fence panel

Tools and materials needed Hammer, wedge

Securing an arris rail Mending the fence with a wooden wedge, as above, should only be a temporary solution. Fitting an arris bracket (right) is the long-term solution, as this bracket

As a short-term measure, stabilize loose fence panels by knocking wooden wedges into the joints with a hammer. Here the gap between an arris rail and a fence post is being wedged.

is designed especially for this popular style of fence joint. When in place, the bracket connects the rail securely within the post.

Mending the fence with a wooden wedge, as above, should only be a temporary solution. Fitting an arris bracket

Electrics

Replacing a damaged plateswitch

124

Replacing a damaged plateswitch If a wiring accessory’s faceplate is cracked or broken, make it safe temporarily by patching it with PVC insulating tape. Buy and fit a replacement as soon as possible.

Damaged plateswitch

Warning • Remember to always turn off the power supply to the individual lighting, and power circuits you are working on, before starting any electrical repairs. • Only use tools which are insulated, to protect against electric shocks.

Tools and materials Terminal screwdriver (see p.127), paper and pencil, new plateswitch

Isolating the circuit Before carrying out any work on a lighting circuit, you must always cut off its electricity supply at the main fusebox or consumer unit. Either turn off the main on-off switch and remove the circuit fuse, or switch off

1

Turn off the power. Run a sharp knife round the plateswitch to cut through any paint or wallpaper stuck to its sides, then unscrew it.

the miniature circuit breaker (MCB) if you have a modern consumer unit. Turning the light off at the wall switch does not isolate the light fitting, which means that the fitting is still live even when the switch is off.

Electrics

125 Replacing a damaged plateswitch

Terminal screws Live core

Replacing a broken pull-cord switch Replacing a damaged lampholder Re-threading a mounting box Re-setting a loose mounting box

Neutral core

Earth core is connected to a strip connector

2

Sketch the wiring connections then undo the terminal screws to release the old plateswitch. The earth core should be wired into a plastic strip connector.

Cable core colour changes The cores in existing two-core-and-earth cable are colour-coded red for live and black for neutral. These are being replaced by new colours – brown for live and blue for neutral, the same as in flex – as part of European

3

Connect the cores to the new plateswitch. Wrap brown PVC tape round the neutral core to show it is live, then re-attach the plateswitch, and return the power.

product harmonization. Cable with the new core colours has been used for all new wiring since March 2006. Existing cables can remain in use. All the pictures in this section of the book use cable with the new core colours.

Replacing a damaged plug

Replacing a broken pull-cord switch

126

Replacing a broken pull-cord switch If the cord breaks below the acorn connector, unscrew this and fit a new length of cord. If it breaks above the acorn, replacing the switch is easier than trying to replace the broken cord.

Tools and materials Terminal screwdriver, replacement pull-cord switch

Replacing light switches Most light switches in the home are plain white plastic and they can be replaced for cosmetic reasons, or if you have accidentally damaged the faceplate. New, metallic faceplates must be earthed to their mounting boxes

Mounting box earth terminal

1

Turn off the power supply to the switch. Unscrew its faceplate and disconnect the cable cores from their terminals.

if they are flush-mounted. This involves linking the earth terminals on the faceplate and in the box with a short length of PVC-sleeved earthed core. You can obtain this from an offcut of cable.

Electrics

127 Replacing a damaged plateswitch

New baseplate

Replacing a broken pull-cord switch Replacing a damaged lampholder

The acorn links the pull-cord to the switch-cord

Re-threading a mounting box Re-setting a loose mounting box Replacing a damaged plug

2

Unscrew the old baseplate from the ceiling and remove it. Fit the new switch baseplate in its place after feeding the cable through it.

Working with a safety screwdriver This terminal screwdriver is used to tighten and loosen terminal screws in wiring accessories. It has an insulated blade and handle to guard against electric shocks.

3

Connect the cable cores to the terminals on the new switch faceplate and screw it to the baseplate. Restore the power.

Replacing a damaged lampholder

128

Replacing a damaged lampholder The plastic lampholder below a ceiling rose can crack or become discoloured over time, due to heat rising from the light bulb. Fitting a replacement is a simple task. A plastic lampholder needs no earth connection, and is wired using two-core flex.

Tools and materials Slip-joint pliers, terminal screwdriver, new lampholder

Working with two-core flex This flex has no earth core, and is used for wiring light fittings with plastic lampholders, and for portable appliances, such as power tools, which need no earth connection.

Screw-on cover conceals baseplate

1

Screw-on cover hides terminals

Turn off the power supply to the lighting circuit, then undo the lampholder cover. Grip it with slip-joint pliers if it is stuck.

Electrics

Make sure the cores are secure

129 Replacing a damaged plateswitch Replacing a broken pull-cord switch Replacing a damaged lampholder Re-threading a mounting box Re-setting a loose mounting box Replacing a damaged plug

2

Slide the cover up the flex to expose the lampholder terminals. Undo the screws and release the flex cores.

3

Thread the flex through the new lampholder cover (and the flex grip if supplied). Then reconnect the cores to their terminals. Continued

Replacing a damaged lampholder

130 Flex anchor

4

If no separate flex grip is supplied, hook the flex cores over the support lugs to prevent any strain on the terminals.

Placing a batten lampholder An alternative to the ceiling rose, the batten lampholder is a one-piece utility light fitting with a straight or angled lampholder, often used in lofts or garages.

5

Screw the cover to the body of the lampholder. Fit a light bulb and restore the power supply so that you can test the light.

Re-threading a mounting box If faceplate fixing screws were cross-threaded when originally driven into their fixing lugs, the threads will have been damaged. If so you may have difficulty in undoing and replacing the existing plateswitch. You will need to re-thread the holes. Turn off the power supply, and then undo the existing plateswitch fixing screws.

Tools and materials Screwdriver, re-threader

131 Replacing a damaged plateswitch Replacing a broken pull-cord switch

Lugs

Replacing a damaged lampholder Re-threading a mounting box Re-setting a loose mounting box Replacing a damaged plug

Ease off the plateswitch. Rotate the re-threader inside each lug to cut a new thread. Re-attach the plateswitch using new faceplate screws.

Dealing with broken lugs Flush metal mounting boxes contain one fixed and one adjustable lug, allowing accessory faceplates to be fixed level even if the box is not. Forcing cross-threaded screws out may

shear off one or both of these lugs. If this happens, you have no alternative but to remove the damaged mounting box and replace it with a new one.

Re-setting a loose mounting box

132

Re-setting a loose mounting box Surface-mounted boxes are prone to knocks that can pull them away from the wall, especially if it is hollow and the original fixings were poorly made. If this happens, remake the fixings to re-secure the box.

Tools and materials Screwdriver, drill, new wall fixings to suit wall type

Mounting fittings in hollow walls Clip-in dry-lining boxes make light work of flushmounting wiring accessories in timber-framed partition walls and plasterboard ceilings. Some have spring-loaded lugs that grip the back of

Faceplate

1

Mounting box has pulled away from wall

Turn off the power supply to the damaged accessory. Unscrew the faceplate and ease it away from the mounting box.

the plasterboard; others have to be pushed out to clip the box in place. They are usually square or rectangular for wall-mounted accessories, and circular when used in a ceiling.

Electrics

133 Replacing a damaged plateswitch Replacing a broken pull-cord switch Replacing a damaged lampholder Re-threading a mounting box Re-setting a loose mounting box Replacing a damaged plug

2

Undo the screws fixing the box to the wall and remove the old fixings. Reposition the box slightly and drill new fixing holes.

3

Insert new wall fixings and screw the mounting box securely to the wall. Re-attach the faceplate and restore the power supply.

Replacing a damaged plug

134

Replacing a damaged plug All new appliances are now supplied with factory-fitted plugs that cannot be opened. To replace a damaged plug you must cut off its flex and reconnect this to a new plug.

Factory-fitted plug

Tools and materials Side-cutters, craft knife, wire-strippers, terminal screwdriver, new plug

Fuses for electrical appliances You will find fuses of varying capacities in most household electrical appliances. Store different capacity fuses in your tool box.

1

Use side-cutters to sever the flex close to the damaged plug. Discard it immediately.

Electrics Earth

Fuse

135 Replacing a damaged plateswitch Replacing a broken pull-cord switch Replacing a damaged lampholder Re-threading a mounting box

Live

Re-setting a loose mounting box Replacing a damaged plug

Neutral

2

Cut off about 50mm (2in) of the flex sheath with a craft knife. Then trim 16mm (½in) of insulation from each core with wire-strippers.

3

Flex grip

Open the new plug, release the flex grip and connect the cores as shown. Replace the flex grip and screw on the plug cover.

Plumbing and heating

Temporary repair of a hole in a pipe

138

Temporary repair of a hole in a pipe If water is allowed to freeze in a pipe, it may lead to cracks or splits, which can cause a leak when the water thaws. This method of repair can cover a length of pipe.

Position the clips on either side of the hole

Tools and materials Jubilee clips, section of hose pipe, screwdriver

Turning off the water When a leak is detected, always turn off the water supply. All homes should have a stop valve that controls the flow of the main water supply into the home. It is important that everybody in the house knows the location of this

1

Place Jubilee clips on the damaged pipe, either side of the hole or crack. Do not tighten at this stage.

valve. Depending on the frequency and position of isolating valves in your system, you may be able to shut off the supply to particular areas.

Plumbing and heating

139 Temporary repair of a hole in a pipe Shutting off a section of pipe Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting

Secure the clips over the top of the pipe

Repair using a slip coupling Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

2

Cut out a section of hose to cover the hole or crack. Open the section along one side.

Using isolating valves Used as shut-off valves for the smaller areas of a plumbing system, isolating valves should be located throughout a plumbing system. For example, an isolating valve may be fitted close to a tap.

3

Place the piece of hose pipe over the area of pipe that is leaking. Clip into place with the jubilee clips, and screw them tight to secure.

If the tap needs replacing, it is then only necessary to turn off the water supply to that tap rather than shut down the entire water system.

Shutting off a section of pipe

140

Shutting off a section of pipe This method can be used on a section of pipe that, if closed down temporarily, would not affect the whole plumbing system in the house. An example might be the cold feed to a basin tap.

Tools and materials Pipe cutter or junior hacksaw, push-fit stop end

Copper pipes for domestic use Half-hard copper pipe (top) and micro-bore copper pipe (bottom) are used for extensively in modern heating and hot water systems.

Cut below the section of pipe you are removing

1

Turn off the water supply. Cut through the pipe below the damaged section, using a pipe cutter or a junior hacksaw.

Plumbing and heating

141 Temporary repair of a hole in a pipe Shutting off a section of pipe Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting Repair using a slip coupling Bleeding a radiator

Stop end

Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

2

Bend the damaged section away from the undamaged pipe section to provide space to work.

Size-specific pipe cutters Some cutters, like the one shown here, are sized to the most common diameter of pipe. This saves adjustment time as the cutter is simply clamped directly on to the pipe. Adjustable pipe cutters can cope with more than

3

Position a stop end on the cut end of the undamaged pipe. A push-fit stop end is quickest and easiest to fit.

one size of pipe, by making a slight modification to the settings. If you don’t have a pipe cutter, you can use a junior hacksaw instead (see p.142).

Pipe repair using a push-fit hose

142

Pipe repair using a push-fit hose A simple way to repair a damaged pipe is to use a length of flexible hose with push-fit sockets on each end. This is not just a temporary measure and can be regarded as a permanent fix.

Tools and materials Junior hacksaw or pipe cutter (see p.141), push-fit flexible hose

Junior hacksaw The teeth on a junior hacksaw are forward-facing and very fine. This means it is often used for fine cutting jobs and is ideal for cutting through metal.

Damaged copper pipe

1

Turn off the water, before cutting out the damaged section of pipe. Remove the equivalent of about three-quarters of the length of the flexible hose.

Plumbing and heating

143 Temporary repair of a hole in pipe Shutting off a section of pipe Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting Repair using a slip coupling

Attach the flexible connector to the copper pipe

Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

2

Push one end of the flexible hose onto one end of the pipe. The rubber socket will grip the pipe.

3

Push the second end section in place. A slight curve in the hose will not affect water flow, but make sure that the hose is not bent.

Using a flexible hose Making connections between rigid pipes and fittings used to require a skilled knowledge of joining techniques. However, used correctly, a flexible push-fit hose

(top), and flexible compression-socket hose (bottom) have practically eliminated the need for soldering, making plumbing repairs much easier.

Pipe repair using a compression fitting

144

Pipe repair using a compression fitting If the pipe is not rigidly held in place and there is some vertical and horizontal movement allowed, the leak may be repaired with a standard compression fitting. The new section springs into position.

Tools and materials Marker pen, junior hacksaw or pipe cutter, compression fitting, adjustable spanner

Making a compression joint No solder is required to make this type of joint, which comprises two nuts, two olives, and a threaded section, that holds the pipes together.

1

Turn off the water supply, then mark around the damaged section of pipe. Cut out the section using a junior hacksaw or pipe cutter.

Plumbing and heating

145 Temporary repair of a hole in a pipe Shutting off a section of pipe

Nut

Pipe repair using a push-fit hose

Olive

Pipe repair using a compression fitting Repair using a slip coupling Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater

Threaded section of the fitting

2

Detach the pipe from its clips. Place the nuts and olives on the pipe ends. Slide the threaded central part of the fitting between the pieces of pipe.

Working with adjustable spanners Multi-purpose gripping tools such as this spanner are used for holding fixtures and fittings in place. Its jaws may be adjusted to fit nuts and bolts of different sizes.

Fixing a faulty pump

3

Tighten the nuts with an adjustable spanner onto the compression fitting to make the repair watertight.

Repair using a slip coupling

146

Repair using a slip coupling Slip couplings are useful for repairing damaged sections of pipe when the pipe is in a fixed position and space is restricted. If it is possible to move the pipe easily, you could make a sprung repair with compression fittings instead (see p.144).

Tools and materials Junior hacksaw or pipe cutter, slip-coupling fitting, adjustable spanners

Supporting copper pipes When fitting long pipe runs, you will need to support the pipes using clips or support brackets (see opposite) at regular intervals. For 15mm (½in) copper pipes, these need to be placed every 1.8m (5ft 11in) when vertical,

1

Turn off the water supply. Cut out the damaged section of pipe. Use a junior hacksaw or pipe cutter.

and 1.2m (4ft) when horizontal. For 22mm (9/10in) copper pipes, you should place supports at every 2.4m (7ft 11in) when vertical and 1.8m (5ft 11in) when horizontal.

Plumbing and heating

147 Temporary repair of a hole or crack in pipe Shutting off a section of pipe

Screw the nut down on to the sleeve

Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting

Coupling sleeve

Repair using a slip coupling Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

2

Position both nuts and olives on the cut-end sections of pipe, then slip the coupling sleeve over the top section of pipe.

3

Slide the coupling up the upper section of pipe, and attach the nut to the coupling sleeve. Continued

Two-screw copper support clips These are simple copper brackets with two pre-drilled holes used for fixing copper pipes to walls or beams.

Repair using a slip coupling

148

Central coupling nut

4

Align the coupling with the lower section of pipe and lower it in to place.

Using connector inserts Pipe systems may or may not need inserts at each joint. When plastic pipe is being used with plastic joints, some manufacturers suggest using

5

Tighten the coupling nuts using spanners to make the fitting and pipe watertight.

inserts to create an extra seal. When plastic supply pipes are used with metal fittings it is almost certain that inserts will be required.

Bleeding a radiator

149

If a radiator feels cool along the top but hot elsewhere, the most likely cause is trapped air inside the radiator. To get rid of it, open the air vent at one of the top corners of the radiator, using a bleed key.

Temporary repair of a hole or crack in pipe Shutting off a section of pipe Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting Repair using a slip coupling Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

Tools and materials Radiator key, absorbent cloth

1

Feel if the radiator is cool at the top and hot at the bottom when the heating is turned on. Continued

Radiator bleed key Widely available from DIY stores, radiator valve keys are used to bleed radiators. It is advisable to keep one close to a radiator.

Bleeding a radiator

150

2

Open the handwheel valve fully, or turn the thermostatic valve to its highest setting when the heating is on.

Adjusting the temperature A thermostatic valve automatically adjusts the flow of water through each radiator to control room temperature.

3

Fit the key over the vent valve and open it to release the air. Hold a cloth below the vent to catch any escaping water.

Plumbing and heating

151 Temporary repair of a hole or crack in pipe Shutting off a section of pipe Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting Repair using a slip coupling Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

4

Open the valve a little more, but be ready to close it quickly as soon as water starts to splutter out. The water may be dirty.

Venting problems The valve may have been painted over, so chip away the paint with a small screwdriver or the point of a sharp knife. If the key does not turn the valve, fit it in and grip

5

Tighten the vent valve fully and wipe away any drips. Check that the radiator is hot all over. Then reset the valve position.

its crossbar with pliers to increase your leverage. If this fails to free it, apply penetrating spray oil and leave it to soak in for a while. Then try opening it again.

Replacing an immersion heater

152

Replacing an immersion heater The most common cause of immersion heater failure is a burnt-out element. Check whether you have a top-fitting element (as here) or a side-fitting one, and buy a replacement. Switch off the heater at its nearby double-pole switch. Next, drain the cylinder to just below the level of the heater boss. Consult your manual for the correct procedure, as heater designs can vary . Tools and materials Pliers or small spanner, terminal screwdriver, immersion heater spanner, penetrating spray oil, knife, PTFE tape, new heater

Types of immersion heater An immersion heater is a long, U-shaped element which may be folded back on itself. It is screwed into the top or side wall of the hot cylinder (shown here). Singleelement heaters are available in lengths from 280mm

1

Turn off the power supply to the heater, then undo the nut that secures the heater cover using pliers or a small spanner.

(11in) up to 800mm (2ft 7½in), and are rated at 3kW. The shorter models are designed to be installed in the side of a cylinder, one above the other.

Plumbing and heating

153 Temporary repair of a hole or crack in pipe

The immersion heater spanner, is used to remove the heater

Shutting off a section of pipe Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting

Terminal

Repair using a slip coupling

Core

Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

2

Make a note of which core is connected to which terminal, then disconnect the cores, and loosen the flex grip screws to free the flex.

3

Unscrew the old heater using an immersion heater spanner. Apply penetrating spray oil if it will not undo easily. Do not buckle the cylinder wall. Continued

Adding a timer If you rely on the immersion heater for your hot water supply, and you do not have a night-rate electricity supply, it is a good idea to fit a timer. This allows you to set the heating periods you want, so that the heater

comes on automatically before times of high hot water demand and is off at other times. You will need a length of new flex to complete the connections.

Replacing an immersion heater

154 Built-in thermostat

4

Discard the old heater and remove any sealant from the threads of the heater boss. Wrap PTFE tape round the threads of the new heater and fit the sealing washer.

Using polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) tape One of the most commonly used accessories, PTFE (better known as Teflon) tape is wrapped around the thread of compression joints to form a watertight seal.

5

Flex grip

Put the heater in the cylinder, securing it with the spanner. Connect the cores to the terminals, and set the thermostat. Replace the cover and re-connect the power.

Fixing a faulty pump

155

Two common problems affect central heating pumps. An airlock in the pump means that the radiators do not heat up properly. A jammed pump impeller means they do not heat up at all.

Temporary repair of a hole or crack in pipe Shutting off a section of pipe

Bleed valve Pipe repair using a push-fit hose Pipe repair using a compression fitting Repair using a slip coupling

Use a cloth to catch any drips

Bleeding a radiator Replacing an immersion heater Fixing a faulty pump

Tools and materials Screwdriver, cloth

Freeing a jammed impeller Remove the bleed valve (identified in the image above), with a screwdriver to reveal the slotted end of the impeller – the disc in

Freeing an airlock With the pump off, loosen the screw-in bleed valve to let the air out, in the same way that you would bleeding a radiator (see p.149).

the pump that directs the water flow. Rotate it with the screwdriver until it is freed.

Index

156

Index A

adhesives 58–59, 117 adjustable spanners 145 arris rail 121 auger 62

B

bathrooms cistern 66–67 shower cubicle 87–89 silicone sealant 82–83 tiles, drilling 50–52 tiles, replacing 84–86 toilet 62–63 toilet seat 64–65 traps 60–61 batten lampholder 130 bleeding a radiator 149–51 block paving 110–11 block plane 27 brick jointer 20 brush marks in paintwork 74–75

C

cable core colours 125 two-core flex 128 working with 126 cable and pipe detector 15 carpenter’s level 107 carpet choosing 100 patch-repair 100–1 ceiling rose 128 cement-board 88–89 central heating pump 155 ceramic tiles buying 84

drilling 50–52 replacing 84–86 chisels 91 cold 46 wood 28 circuit, isolating 124 circular saw 31 cisterns 66–67 claw hammer 36 club hammer 19 cold chisel 46 cold-mix tarmac 113 combination pliers 22 combination square 28, 29 compression joint 144 compression socket hose 143 concrete, repairing 116–17 contact adhesive 58, 59 copper pipes 140, 146 coupling sleeve 147 craft knife 101

D

digital tape measure 26 dispenser, all-purpose 83 door hinges 53–55 doors rattling 28–29 sticking 26–27 strike plate 28–29 double-glazed windows 24–25 downpipe, loose 44–45 drawer runners 56–57 drill bits 50 hinge cutter 55 tile bit 51 drips in paintwork 70–71 driveways and paths block paving 110–11 concrete 116–17

gravel 114–15 paving slabs 118–20 tarmac 112–13 drywall saw 15

E

easy-fit door hinges 53 electrics cable detector 15 circuit, isolating 124 fuses 135 lampholders 128–30 mounting box, re-setting 132–33 mounting box, re-threading 131 plateswitch 124–25 plug, replacing 134–35 pull-cord switch 126–27 ergonomic claw hammer 36 external mitre 96–97

F

fence panel, repairing 121 fillers 17 flashing glass-reinforced polyester (GRP) 43 lead 42 leaking 42–43 flat roof, patching 40–41 flat-roof roller 41 flexible hose 143 float-arm valves 66–67 floor boards cutting across the grain 30 dimensions, matching 33 exposed 39 gaps between 38–39 loose 36–37

square-edged 33–35 tongue-and-groove 30–32 floor-laying tools 103, 104 floor tiles adhesive cover 106 broken, replacing 105–7 buying 105 flooring carpet 100–1 laminate 98–99 tools 103, 104 vinyl 102–4 see also floor boards; floor tiles fuses 134

G

glass measuring 23 safe removal of 21–23 glass fibre tape 89 glass-reinforced polyester (GRP) flashing 43 glazed tiles 85 grain, cutting across 30 gravel paths, re-laying 114–15 grout replacing 78–79 reviving 80–81 grout protector 81 grouting tools 78, 79 GRP flashing 43 gulley drainage 44

H

hacksaw 142 hammers claw 36 club 19 lump 119

157 hawk 12 health and safety adhesives and sealants 82 drills 50 electrics 124, 126, 127 goggles 21 protective clothing 21, 112 heat gun 72–73 heating central heating pump 155 radiators 149–51 high pressure water jet 63 hinge cutter drill bit 55 horizontal alignment 107

I

immersion heater 152–54 impeller, jammed 155 irregular shapes, cutting 103 isolating an electricity circuit 124 isolating valves 139

J

joint raker 18, 19 jointing compounds 58 Jubilee clips 138 junior hacksaw 142

K

kitchens door hinges 53–55 drawer runners 56–57 laminate worktop 58–59 silicone sealant 82–83 tiles, drilling 50–52 tiles, replacing 84–86 traps 60–61

L

laminate flooring laying 98 repairing 98–99 laminate worktops 58–59 lampholders 128–30 laying off 74 lead dresser 42 lead flashing 42 leaks see pipe repairs; roof repairs; shower cubicle; silicone sealant levels 93, 107 light fittings batten lampholder 130 ceiling rose 128 replacing 128–30 lump hammers 119

M

machine palm sander 75 masking tape 21, 59 masonry plugs 52 metal float arm 67 metal mounting box 131 mitre block 94 mitre, external 96–97 mitre joint 96 mortar ready-mix 120 repointing 18–20 shaping 18 mounting box plastic 132 re-setting 132–33 re-threading 131 multipurpose scraper 24

N

nail punch 37 nails, types 92 needle-nosed pliers 23

O

outdoor repairs block paving 110–11 concrete 116–17 downpipes 44–45 fencing 121 flashing 42–43 flat roof 40–41 gravel paths 114–15 mortar 18–20 paving slabs 118–20 roof verge 46–47 tarmac 112–13 walls, repointing 18–20

P

packers 24 padsaw 15 paint brushes, loading 70 paint rollers 77 paintwork brush marks 74–75 coverage 76–77 drips 70–71 laying off 74 techniques 74 wrinkles 72–73 palm sander 75 panelling, tongue-and-groove 90–92 patch plastering 12–14 paths and driveways block paving 110–11 concrete 116–17

gravel 114–15 paving slabs 118–20 tarmac 112–13 paving blocks/pavers 110, 111 paving slabs broken 118–20 maintenance 118 pipe cutters 140, 141 pipe detector 15 pipe repairs compression fitting 144–45 push-fit hose 142–43 shutting off a section 140–41 slip coupling 146–48 temporary 138–39 turning water off 138 pipes connector accessories 148 copper 140, 146 coupling sleeve 147 isolating valves 139 plastic 148 support clips 146, 147 planes 27, 38 plaster mixing 13 patch repair 12–14 tools 14 plasterboard repairing 15–17 types 16 plastic float arm 67 plastic pipes 148 plastic spacers 86 plastic wedges 24 plateswitch 124–25 pliers 22, 23 plug (electric), replacing 134–35 plumbing cisterns 66–67

Index

158 isolating valves 139 pipe repairs 138–48 toilets 62–63 traps 60–61 water, turning off 138 plungers 63 pointing trowel 47 profile gauge 103 protective clothing 21, 112 pry bar 31, 34 PTFE tape 154 pull-cord switch 126–27 push-fit hose 143 PVA (polyvinyl acetate) adhesive 16, 117

R

radiator key 149 radiators how to bleed 149–51 temperature adjustment 150 venting problems 151 rammer 113 ready-mix mortar 120 ready-mixed fillers 17 repair compounds 99 right angle, determining 29 rollers 77 roof repairs flashing 42–43 flat roof 40–41 verge 46–47 roofing primer 40

S

safety adhesives and sealant 82 drills 50 electrics 124, 126, 127

goggles 21 protective clothing 21, 112 sander 75 sanding block 71 sandpaper, choosing 76 saws circular 31 drywall 15 hacksaw 142 how to cut wood 35 screwdriver, terminal 127 scribing 29 seam roller 104 self-adhesive repair 41 shovels 114 shower cubicle leaks, preventing 87 repairing 87–89 shut-off valves 139 side-cutters 134 silicone sealant, replacing 82–83 skirting board external mitre repair 96–97 matching up 95 replacing a section 93–95 slip couplings 146–48 spacers 86 spades 114 spanners adjustable 145 immersion heater 153 spirit levels 93, 107 sponges 80 square-edged boards 33–35 stud walls 15–17

T

tape measure 26 tarmac cold-mix 113

patching 112–13 Teflon tape 154 terminal screwdriver 127 thermostatic valve 150 tile drill bit 51 tile file 86 tiles buying 84 drilling 50–52 replacing 84–86 working with 85 toilets cistern, water level 66–67 seat, adjusting 64–65 types 64 unblocking 62–63 tongue-and-groove boards 30–32 tongue-and-groove panelling 90–92 Torbeck float arm 66 traps, unblocking 60–61 trowels 20, 47 two-core flex 129

U

UPVC bead fixings 24–25 UPVC windows 25

V

verge, repointing 46–47 verge tiles 46 vertical alignment 107 vinyl cutter 104 vinyl flooring laying 102 patch-repair 102–4

W

wall plugs 52 walls, repointing 18–20 water, turning off 138 waterproof sealant 82–83 weedproof membrane 115 windows double-glazed 24–25 glass removal 21–23 UPVC bead fixings 24–25 wire detector 15 wire-strippers 134–35 wiring tools 134 wood buying 34 cutting with saw 35 wood chisel 28 wooden fencing 121 work boots 112 worktops laminate 58–59 types 58 wrinkled paintwork 72–73

159

Acknowledgements Additional photography: John Freeman, Tim Ridley, Howard Shooter, and Colin Walton

HallsBeeline Group Tel: 02890 351707 Email: [email protected] www.hallsbeeline.net

Flooring

Electrics and heating consultant: Mike Lawrence

LG Harris & Co. Ltd Tel: 01527 575441 Email: [email protected] www.lgharris.co.uk

Kahrs (UK) Ltd Tel: 01243 778747/784417 Email: [email protected] www.kahrs.com

Polyvine Ltd Tel: 0870 787 3710 www.polyvine.co.uk

Western Cork Ltd Tel: 029 2037 6700 www.westcofloors.co.uk

Today Interiors Tel: 01476 574401 www.todayinteriors.com

General construction materials

Index: Margaret Vaudrey

Adhesives, sealants, and abrasives Building Adhesives Ltd Tel: 01782 591100 www.building-adhesives.com PC Cox Ltd Tel: 01635 264500 www.pccox.co.uk www.cox-applicators.com Saint Gobain Abrasives Ltd Tel: 01785 222000 Email: orders.stafford.uk@ saint-gobain.com

Bathrooms CRAMER U.K. Ltd www.cramer-gmbh.de Ideal Standard Tel: 01482 346461

Decorating products Cuprinol and Dulux Wood Finishes Tel: 01753 550555 www.cuprinol.co.uk www.dulux.co.uk

Doors and windows Crittall Windows Limited Tel: 01376 324106 Email: hq@crittall-windows. co.uk www.crittall-windows.co.uk Laird Lifestyle Products Ltd Tel: 0191 518 5200 www.lairdlifestyle.com PremDor Tel: 0870 990 7998 Email: ukmarketing@ premdor.com www.premdor.com VELUX Company Ltd www.VELUX.co.uk

Axminster Carpets Ltd Tel: 01297 630650 www.axminstercarpets.co.uk

Bradfords Building Supplies Ltd Tel: 01935 845245 www.bradfords.co.uk

Supreme Concrete Ltd Tel: 01487 833300 www.supremeconcrete.co.uk Trus Joist Tel: 01214 456666 www.trusjoist.com

General tools and materials Screwfix Direct Ltd Tel: 0500 414141 www.screwfix.com Irwin Industrial Tool Company Ltd Tel: 0114 244 9066 www.irwin.co.uk Rollins & Sons (London) Ltd www.rollins.co.uk

James Hardie Building Products Ltd Tel: 0800 068 3103 www.JamesHardieEU.com

The Spot Board Company Tel: 01252 821007 www.spotboard.co.uk

Hye Oak Group Ltd Tel: 01474 332291 www.hyeoak.co.uk

Stanley UK Tel: 0114 244 8883 www.stanleyworks.com

Lafarge Plasterboard Ltd Tel: 01275 377773 www.lafargeplasterboard. co.uk

TOOLBANK Tel: 0845 658 0357 Email: info.ecommerce@ toolbank.com www.toolbank.com

Marshalls plc Tel: 0870 120 7474 www.marshalls.co.uk

Acknowledgements

160 Plaster accessories and coatings Aristocast Originals Ltd Tel: 0114 2690900 Email: [email protected] www.plasterware.net Artex-Rawlplug Ltd Tel: 01154 984 5679 Email: [email protected] www.artex-rawlplug.co.uk

Plumbing supplies JG Speedfit Ltd Tel: 01895 449233 Email: [email protected] www.speedfit.co.uk

Ruberoid Building Products Tel: 01257 255771 www.ruberoid.co.uk Web Dynamics Tel: 01204 695666 www.webdynamics.co.uk

Tiles and tiling accessories Fabriform Neken Ltd Tel: 01428 722252 Email: [email protected] www.neken.co.uk H & R Johnson Tiles Ltd www.johnson-tiles.com

Yorkshire Fittings Ltd Tel: 0113 270 1104 Email: info@yorkshirefittings. co.uk www.yorkshirefittings.co.uk

World’s End Tiles Tel: 020 7819 2100 Email: sales@worldsendtiles. co.uk www.worldsendtiles.co.uk

Power tools

Windmill Extrusions Ltd Tel: 01335 344554 www.windmill-unilux.com

ITW Construction Products www.itwcp.co.uk

Roofing products John Brash & Company Ltd Tel: 01427 613858 www.johnbrash.co.uk DIY Roofing Ltd Tel: 0800 7834890 www.diyroofing.co.uk Lafarge Roofing Ltd Tel: 08705 601000