Cooks & other people : proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 1995 9780907325727, 0907325726

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COOKS OT H E R P IEO P IL IE SEND

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PROCEEDINGS OE THE OXFORD SYMPOSIUM ON FOOD AND COOKERY I995

PROSPECT BOOKS

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I.IGHTFOOT, Thomas

Cook

Wadham

1651

15, K-L,f.107-8

LLOYD, Robert LUCAS, Charles MATHEW, Robert MORRIS, Robert

Cook Cook Cook Cook

All Souls Trinity Gloucester Hall New

1648 1707 1594 1701

15, K-L,f.118-9 15, K-L,f. 132. 16, M-O,f.24-5 16, M-O, f.61-2

PHILIPPE, William PRICE, John

Cook Cook

Not specified Pembroke

1633 1637

17, P,f.17 17, P,f.92-3

PRICE, Thomas REEVE, John SELWOOD, Edward SHURLOE, Roger SIADE,John SMITH, Samuel TURNER, Carl WARIAND, Christopher WRIGHT, Samuel

Cook Cook Cook Cook Cook Cook Cook Cook Cook

Jesus Balliol St. John ‘s Magdalen Magdalen Balliol Pembroke Exeter University

1638 1708 1670 1590 1678 1682 1715 1640 1727

17, P,f.99-100 18, R-S,f.23-4 18, R-S,f.89-92 18, R-S,f.114 18, R-S, f.129-30 18, R-S, £149 19, T-Y, f.84-5 19, T-Y,f. 102-3 19, T-Y,f. 156-7

Appendix 11 Select Extract of Total Valuation of Goods in Vice-Chancellor’s Inventories to the nearest pound Name of Cook

College

Date/Inventory

Total Valuation

Acton

Trinity

1616

£21

Brooke

Merton

1671

£10

Browne Crosse Davies Downes Flye Griffin Hall Iangford Lightfoot Lloyd Lucas

Christ Church New Queen’s Jesus New Merton Lincoln St. John's Wadham All Souls’ Trinity

1684 1602 17th century 1680 1610 1651 1679 1711 1651 1648 1707

£24 £19 £80 £89 £34 £164 £217 £135 £38 £165 £19

Matthew Morris

Gloucester Hall New

1594 1701

£62 £18

Price Price Reeve

Pembroke Jesus Balliol

1637 1638 1708

£25 £27 £86

Selwood

St. John’s

1670

£415

Shurloe Slade Smith

Magdalen Magdalen Balliol

1590 1678 1682

£40 £95 £23

Warland

Exeter

1640

£45

OXFORD COLLEGE COOKS, 1400-1800

65

Appendix 111a Queen‘s College, Bursar’s Book, 1692 Queens College. An Acct ofPewter and Other Utensills in the Kitchin taken August the 13th, 1692.

22 large Pewter dishes 29 Somewhat less 35 of a smaller size

54 somewhat less 16 Pottage dishes 4 Plates for cheese 4 D02 and half of Saucers

The weight of the pewter 555 lb of this 49lb useless wch was changed for Plate for the High Table

Appendix I1Ih Exeter College Archives, C.II.4, Liber Implementorum omnia huius Collegii Exoniensis, 1618-1638: lmplem[en]ts and utensils belonging to the [Exeter College] kitchen taken Christmas Eve, 1623. Pewter

Porridg dishes for the fellowes table

on[e] doz 8: half

Platters for Com[m]ons, for fellowes,

soujournors 8: battlers Broade porrige platters deepe porrige platters

2 doz: on[e] doz: on[e] doz

Little sawcers Great sawcers

on[e] doz: on[e] doz

One Cullender of pewter one braze[n] ladle one bread-grater one slicer seaven meate spitts, 2 bird spitts one pair of racks Three pair dropping panns Three pound braze potts, parvus, maior, maximus Three kettles Two Cauldrons of brasse one bigger then other One braze skillet Three pot hangings One payre of pott hookes One Iron barre One Viniger bottle, 8: mustard pott Two cole basketts, one flesh basket One tray, one trugg Two gridirons, one bigger than other

66

OXFORD COLLEGE COOKS, 1400-1800

Appendix IV Comparison of Kitchen Equipment appearing in the Vice-Chancellor’s Inventories HYP/B/11, Br-C, f.3S Richard Browne, second cook of Christ Church, February 6, 1684

In the Kitchen 7 71b dishes, 3 51b dishes, 3 41b dishes, 12 plates, 6 porringers, 4 sawcers, 1 bason 2 10lb dishes, 1 16lh dish, 2 mazarines, 1 pasty pan

. £4 5s 0d

1 Scume, ladle, slice 8: posnett, 1 skilet,

3 small kettles, 1 pot, 1 warming pan all brass, 1 candlestick, 3 tin covers, 4 spits, 2 grid-irons,

1 jack, 1 iron grate with doggs, fire shovell 8: tongs, fender, frying pan

£2 16s 8d

One old flock bed 8r bolster, pillow 8r blankett,

8r rug, Four wirgen chayres, 1 pair of racks, 2 small cupboard [Total valuation of allo goods £24 65 3d] HYP/B/12, D-F,f.123

Mrs Mary Faulkner, late cook in the Parish of St. Aldates,June 24, 1729

Goods in the Kitchen Crane & Four books, 7 spits, 2 racks

choping knife, toster, dogwheel 3 tables, 7 chairs, 2 pikturs

Dressers 8r shelves in pantry, saltbox

22 dishes, 36 platts, 3 chamberpots, 1 porenger, 13 spoones, a ladle, 3 Dripping pans, pair of bellows 1 flower box, peeper box, 2 sconces, 2 ragoo spoons, 2 quart mugs

Bed-stead & curtains

In the lillte Roome 1 stewpan, 2 coffeepots, copper cullinder a bellmettle pot, a brass kettle [Total valuation of all goods £44 19s 3d]

£19 10s 6d

OXFORD COLLEGE COOKS, 1400-1800

67

REFERENCES ‘The material for this paper was discovered while working on Oxford College silver, a project funded by the Leverhulme Trust and based in the Department of Western Art, Ashmolean Museum. I would like to thank Val Mars

for introducing me to the Oxford Food Symposium, and all the Oxford college archivists, especially Mrs Elizabeth Boardman from Brasenose College, Mrs Christine Butler from Corpus Christi College, Mrs Jane Cottis from Magdalen College and Mrs Caroline Dalton from New College. The Vice Chancellors Court Inventories are part of the University Archives, and I would like to thank the archivist, Mr Simon Bailey for his help and patience in making them available for research. Janna Eggebeen, from the Cooper-Hewitt Master’s programme was of invaluable help in transcribing some of the documents. 2Malcolm Graham, Oxford City Apprentices I697-I800, Oxford Historical Society, New Series, vol.xxxi, 1986, p.ix. ’Elizabeth Leedham-Green, Book Lists in Cambridge University Inventories, (Cambridge, 1984). With thanks to Dora Thornton of the British Museum for drawing my attention to this work.

‘HYP/B/20. SAndrew Clark, Registers ofthe University ofOxford, vol.II, (Oxford, 1887), p.287, from Register I, p.xxxi. ‘Vivian Green, The Commonwealth ofLincoln College 1427-1977, (Oxford, 1979), p.233.

7Oxford University Archives, HYP/B/13, G-Hi, f. 10, total sum £10.55. “HYP/B/12. D-F, £123. 9IIYP/B/20, A-Y, f.82-3, total sum £1210.11s.

‘°HYP/B/12, D-F, f.68-9. “An impression of a ’cook-at-work’ in Oxford survives in the Oxfordjournal of 25 November 1758, of Ben Tyrell in

his kitchen making pies. See Ursula Aylmer, Oxford Food, (Oxford, 19950, p-3. 12Vivian Green, op.cit, p.29. This should be set against the total annual income of the College which was just over £71.

15Jesus College Archives, Bursar’s Account, 1638, p.76. 1“Christ Church Archives, Bursar’s Account, 1668, venison was a luxury usually provided by the King or some other great man, sent as a gift to the University which the Vice-Chancellor then distributed among the colleges, the

venison constituting a welcome change from the regular diet. 15HYP/B/12, D-F, f.123, 24 June 1729, total sum £44 19s 3d, living in the parish of St Aldates. 16Francis Steer, ‘Memorials at New College‘, in John Buxton and Penry Vlfilliams (eds) New College Oxford 1379 1979, (Oxford, 1979), p.353. Ursula Aylmer, op.cit. p.169. The Cooks’ Guild was established in Oxford in the fifteenth century. Its members were exclusively cooks employed by the University. Its officers were empowered to

inspect cooked food sold within the University precincts, and summon those who broke the regulations to the Vice Chancellor‘s Court. 17HYP/B/20,A-Y, f.46-7, 29 July 1616. 1"I-IYP/B/13. G-Hi, f.53-4, 16 February 1651, total sum S164 8s 4d. 19HYP/B/13, G-Hi, f.73-4, total sum 5.216 175 10d. z‘IHYP/B/18, R-S, f.23, total sum 588 16s 7d.

Z‘HYP/B/17, P,f.47, 30 December 1633, total sum £25 2s 10d. Z2HYP/B/12, f.68/D-F, 29 September 1680, total sum .5388 12s 8d.

Z3Gervase Jackson-Stops ‘Gains and Losses: the College Buildings, 1404-1750‘, in Buxton and Vfilliams, p. 187. 2“Green, p.233. Her stipend in the late fifteenth century was 13s 4d, her main duties were to clean the chapel, hall and buttery linen.

25New College Archives, 9946 Bursar’s Account, 1707. 26Green, p.231.

27New College Archives, 4241 Bursar’s Account, 1702. 28New College Archives, 4283 Bursar’s Account, 1743, 21 plates were found in 1748 and 16 plates in 1754. Z9HYP/B/10, A-B, p.4. Total value of goods appraised £285 13s 1d which includes £120 for the lease of the house. 3"John Richard Macgrath, The Queen’s College, (Oxford, 1921), p.242. 5‘Exeter College Archives, A.IV.11.

Minekichi Akabori and his Role in the Development of Modern Japanese Cuisine Katarzyna Cwiertka

Introduction The late 19th century launchedJapan on the path to modernisation and brought it closer to Western civilisation.‘ Transformation from the feudal to modern state started with the opening of Japanese

ports in 1954, after more than two hundred years of isolation. Creation of a regular army in 1873, proclamation of the constitution in 1889, and adoption of the Gregorian calendar in 1872 set the basis for this transformation. Signifcant changes occurred also in the culinary domain. In respect to middle-classes and elite2 , it can be generalised that up to the 20th century there was a great difference in people’s attitude towards daily and festive meals. The well-to-do and the middle-classes in Japan valued the taste and aesthetic aspects of haute cuisine, at the same time having very limited expectations towards daily meals. The quality and variety of family meals prepared at home by women or not well-skilled servants was quite poor. For special occasions, catering services were used or banquets took place at restaurants. The gap in the quality of cooking skills between professional chefs, who were mainly men, and amateur cooks, the majority of whom were women, was the result of the refinement of

the cooks’ profession. It also might have been related to the fact that women had a lower social status than men. The gap between professional and amateur cooking started to narrow in the early

19th century; that is evident in the publication of several cookery books for non-professional cooks? Nevertheless, it is unclear whether these books were indeed used as manuals for cooking, or onlyu as entertaining literature. The similar character of cookery cooks in the late 19th century, and a

remarkable switch in the beginning of the 20th century towards more practical and detailed publications, lead us to believe that the growing importance of cooking at home was a direct consequence ofJapan’s encounter with Western culture. Japanese home cuisine was newly created

in the early 20th century, and even the term ‘home cookery’ (katei ryori) itself emerged in the Japanese language under Western influence. the word ‘home’ (katei) was translated from English in the late 19th century, and was associated with a loving family atmosphere.‘ In the traditional Japanese context, where family members were tied by economical boundaries or feudal relationships, this catholic concept of family love was new. In the modified form of the ideology of ‘family happiness’

(ikka danran), this Western-rooted concept diffused quickly throughout Japanese society. The ideology of ‘family happiness’ emerged as the new gender ideology promoted by the state and had a great impact on Japanese domestic cookery. Sharing a meal at home started to be regarded as one of the methods to ‘bind the family together in a happy circle‘ and to create family solidarity. Together with the growing importance of eating at home, the quality of meals received more attention, and this directly effected the attitude towards non-professional cooking. The contrast between festive

and daily meals gradually became less extreme. The social meaning of the family meal and expectations towards women’s cooking skills changed. In such circumstances the first non

professional cooking school for women—Akabori Cooking Class-was established.

68

MINEKICHIAKABORI

69

Aleahori Cooking Class Akabori Cooking Class (Aleahori Kappd Kyojd) was established in the centre of Tokyo in 1882. The founder of this school, Minekichi Akaboris, was born in 1816 in the central part ofJapan (currently Shizuoka prefecture).He devoted himself to women’s culinary education after working for several years as a cook in prestigious restaurants in Edo (now Tokyo). His son and grandson followed him using Minekichi’s name in their professional activities. Minekichi the 2nd (his real name Kumauemon) was born in 1853 and together with his father developed the activities of the Akabori Cooking Class during the first three decades of its existence. He was also a cooking instructor at the Women's University ofjapan (Nlhonjoshi duigaleu).

AMinekichi the1st 1816-1905

OKiku = Aldinekichi the 2nd

.Ma5a

.Kiku

1853-1905

I

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A Minetaro

i

Olku

I

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OShizuka

OMichi = A Minekichi the 3rd 1886-1956

lMasako

OChiemi = A Arihlro

l YU'al°hi

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250

950

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950

650

»

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700

—

550

~—-

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70

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I60—315' I5—25 950

Difference in price be

tween AGA cooker" &' other ranges . . . .

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10 7»; interest & nmor-IL

300

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Comparable cost‘ per _yc::i'

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'2-lO—37O i 85-—-95

Cost per year in com' par'i'son with that of the AGA cooltcr . . . . . . . . . '.7.$‘l—590fi}

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I'33_f_513.”/J

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NILS ousrav DALEN

193

...In the construction of the AGA cooker aesthetic and hygienic requirements have been most carefully studied. The top has been finished in black and the front panel in white enamel, which renders it easy to keep clean and smart in appearance. The covers for the plates are polished and all fittings are nickle-plated. From an economical, aesthetic and hygienic point of view the AGA cooker may be said to fulfil all the reasonable requirements that may be expected from a modern kitchen range. E. Palm

REFERENCES 1Nobel Prize Winners, ed. Tyler Wasson, H.W. Wilson Company, New York 1987, see entry of Nils Dalén.

2Star Tribune of May 7th, 1989. 3USA Today, 1986-01-02. ‘This house organ was published in English for the international market.

MacAusland and

Gourmet: The Magazine of Good Living 1941 to 1980 Margaret Leibenstein It was January 1941 and World War II raged in Europe, Africa and the Pacific. In America, four years

after saying he saw ‘one third of a nation ill-housed, ill-clad and ill-nourished,’1 Franklin D. Roosevelt's words still resonated. Yet it was in this international climate of terror and domestic privation that

Gourmet.- The Magazine of Good Living was launched. Some might have thought it a less than propitious time to initiate a journal dedicated to devel oping ‘a finer appreciation of food in this country. . .’, a magazine whose publisher believed that ‘more thought should be given both to the preparation of foods and to the manner of eating them,’ and whose stated aim was ‘to eliminate the attitude of eating merely to satisfy one’s hunger.’2 This was, after all, an era where many Americans felt that the primary purpose of eating was in fact the satisfaction of hunger; a time when too many of them couldn’t even get enough food to do that.

A Gallup poll conducted at the time found that ‘. . .approximately four families in every ten thought they were going without food that [made] for better health chiefly because they [didn’t]

have the money.’5 The poll found that 40% of Americans (approximately 13,000,000 families) claimed ‘...they would be more healthy if they had more money each week to buy food." Of those polled, 37% reported they would spend additional money on meat, beef being preferred; 31% specified

vegetables, potatoes leading the list; 27% said fruit—‘including fresh and stewed fruits“; almost three-quarters of the 21% answering that dairy products were what they would buy, specified milk as their choice, 16% (frequently persons on relief, the term then in use for welfare, or the dole) simply wished for ‘good solid food’; 7% would spend the additional monies on bread and cereals, including flour and cornmeal; eggs 7%; 5% on foods with a large sugar content; 2% on ‘food with more vitamins’; and all other answers comprised 14%.6 How then could anyone have believed that this was the time to begin a glossy, upscale magazine containing reminiscences of drives through Burgundy in a ‘hired Hispano’ visiting the vineyards of Gevrey, Morey, Chambolle, Vougeot, Meursault, and Pommard; one that contained recipes for Crabmeat en Gelée, Hot Madrilene, or French Creamed Oysters that began with ‘Put one cup of butter into the top of a lighted chafing dish; . . .’?7 Earle R. MacAusland believed it. He was determined that if there was no interest in fine food, he would forge it and, as history proved, starting Gourmet when, unbeknownst to most, the country was being forced out of its provincial isolationism and

dragged into economic recovery by the fast approaching war, proved to be either remarkable prescience or the greatest good luck. Earle R. MacAusland was born in Taunton, Massachusetts, in 1892, one of three sons and a

daughter born to Scottish immigrant parents. His father was an accomplished silversmith who worked for the venerable firm of Reed 8: Barton Silvermasters. When the elder MacAusland became the general manager of that firm, he moved the family from Taunton to Beacon Hill in Boston. Although the MacAuslands were not wealthy there was always sterling silver on the table and Earle grew up believing that one needn’t be rich to appreciate the finer things in life. 194

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ms COOKS (AND onnaas) AT ERDDIG

Appendix III.- Dinner Book

M