Complete PC Upgrades Handbook 1907232427, 9781907232428

Citation preview

Welcome

You can get a better PC for less! TIMES, AS WE’RE constantly being reminded, are tough, so buying a new PC, no matter how much it’s needed, may be an extravagance too far. However, that doesn’t mean that you can’t get a better computer: you can upgrade the one you’ve got. Upgrading has always been one of the joys of owning a PC. Inside a computer is a collection of components that fit into standard slots and sockets. Replacing one component for another is a technically simple task. The only problem you’re likely to run into is working out which components are compatible with your PC. That’s where we come in. Our in-depth advice will help you find out what you can and can’t fit to your computer, the benefits of upgrading and, most importantly, how to do it. Step-by-step workshops will take you through each upgrade, whether it’s fitting a faster processor, more memory or a new hard disk, while our troubleshooting advice will make sure that you can quickly fix any problems. If you don’t want to spend any money, we can show you how to get a faster PC for free using our overclocking guide. This will show you how to tweak your computer’s hidden settings to make your processor run faster and improve graphics performance. Upgrading isn’t just about getting a faster computer, though; it’s about adding features, too. So, you can add an optical drive and turn your PC into a

high-definition media centre. Dedicated workshops will show you how to get the PC that you’ve always wanted. If you’re a laptop or netbook owner, you haven’t been left out, as we’ve dedicated a chapter to upgrading portable computers. Admittedly there are fewer options compared with a desktop PC, but you’ll still be able to add more memory, a larger hard disk, a new optical drive and even upgrade your computer’s wireless ability. These upgrades should ensure that you can extend the life of your laptop. The important thing to remember is that with our help, no upgrade is beyond your limit. So start planning what you want to do to your PC now and you’ll soon have a much better computer. Happy upgrading!

David Ludlow, Editor [email protected]

´ 1

Contents Everything you need to know about upgrading your PC, from compatibility and installation to testing and troubleshooting CHAPTER 1

CHAPTER 3

ESSENTIAL KIT

INTERNAL UPGRADES

We identify all the tools you’ll need for the job

From the motherboard and processor to the case and power supply, this chapter explains how to give your PC a power boost

What can I upgrade?

6

Your PC upgrade toolkit

8

Upgrading to Windows 7

32

Recommended hardware tools

9

Upgrading your Intel processor

38

Recommended software tools

10

Upgrading your AMD processor

40

CHAPTER 2

Testing your processor

44

ESSENTIAL SKILLS

Upgrading your motherboard

46

Become a PC expert with our in-depth guides

Adding more memory

56

How to… Restore your system

14

Upgrading your hard disk

60

How to… Use Windows Update

15

Installing an optical drive

68

Finding and installing drivers

16

Upgrading your graphics card

72

How to… Upgrade your BIOS

18

Upgrading your PC case

76

How to… Install or repair XP

22

Upgrading your power supply unit

82

How to… Install or repair Vista

26

Silencing your PC

86

FIND THE BEST KIT THE EASY WAY Every month Computer Shopper reviews more kit than any other magazine or website, making it your one-stop shop for all your upgrade needs. Buy it every month from all good newsagents or save money by taking out a subscription from www.computershopper.co.uk

2

82

136

102 CHAPTER 4

CHAPTER 6

LAPTOP UPGRADES

OVERCLOCKING

Follow our step-by-step advice and bring your laptop bang up to date with more memory, a bigger hard disk and much more

Give your PC a free performance boost Make your PC go faster for free

136

Upgrading your laptop

94

System cooling

137

External upgrades

96

Overclocking basics

138

Internal upgrades

97

Understanding the BIOS

139

Upgrading your laptop’s hard disk

98

How to… Overclock your processor

140

Upgrading your laptop’s memory

102

How to… Overclock your graphics card

141

Fitting an optical drive to your laptop

106

CHAPTER 7

Installing an expansion card

110

TROUBLESHOOTING Having problems? Don’t worry – our detailed walkthroughs are here to help

CHAPTER 5

NETWORKING Find out how to share your internet connection and your media files all over your house, add network storage and much more

Fixing boot problems

146

BIOS beep codes

148

Windows problems

150

Creating a home network

116

Network problems

152

Installing a wireless router

120

How to… Connect a wired network

154

Setting up a secure wireless network

122

How to… Connect a wireless network

155

Installing a wireless adaptor

126

How to… Check for other computers

157

Adding a network storage device

130

Glossary

158

ß

CHAPTER 1

Essential kit and advice IN THIS CHAPTER

4

What can I upgrade?

6

Your PC upgrade toolkit

8

Recommended hardware tools

9

Recommended software tools

10

efore you prise the lid off your PC and delve around inside, you need to make sure your toolbox is fully stocked with everything you need to make your upgrades go smoothly. From screwdrivers to thermal paste and anti-static wrist straps, here we’ve highlighted the kit that no upgrader should be without.

B

´

}

CHAPTER 1

Essential kit and advice

What can I upgrade? POWER SUPPLY UNIT (PSU) You’ll need a more powerful PSU to upgrade your motherboard or graphics card (see page 82).

MOTHERBOARD Changing your motherboard can add support for faster processors, more memory, more storage and better graphics cards (see page 46). PROCESSOR Upgrade the processor to make your PC and all your applications run faster (see pages 38 and 40).

MEMORY A simple upgrade, but very effective. More memory will make your computer run more smoothly (see page 56).

GRAPHICS CARD You’ll need a new card to play modern games (see page 72). Only PCI Express cards are worth buying now, so you may need to change your motherboard, too.

EXPANSION SLOTS Use these to add new features to your computer, such as a wireless adaptor (page 126).

Ø

CHAPTER 1

Essential kit and advice

OPTICAL DRIVE Add the ability to write CDs and DVDs or, with a Blu-ray drive, play high-definition movies (see page 68).

SPARE BAYS You’ll need these to add more hard disks (page 60) or an optical drive (page 68).

HARD DISK Add more hard disks to give your computer more storage space for your files (see page 60).

7

CHAPTER 1

Essential kitt and advice

Your PC upg CAREFUL PREPARATION IS the key to every successful upgrade, and the very first step is to get together the basic tools for the job. Over the next four pages, we’ll show you how to put together an upgrader’s toolkit that costs just a few pounds and contains a range of hardware and software that you can use again and again to tackle any upgrade with confidence.

ESSENTIAL TOOLS 0 No. 2 crosshead screwdriver £1.5 0 £4.5 s Long-nose plier £9 r Multi-head drive Total

£15

www.screwfix.com

OPTIONAL TOOLS £6 £8

Torch Cable ties www.screwfix.com

£9

4GB flash drive www.pcnextday.co.uk

Thermal paste Anti-static wristband

£3 £3

p www.lambda-tek.com/componentsho

Total

£29

TOTAL AMOUNT

£44

WHAT YOU SHOULD HAVE ALREADY First, take a look in the box of bits that arrived with your PC, which should contain a number of essential items. Your computer or motherboard manual contains details of your motherboard’s specifications and features, and an explanation of its ports and connectors. It will also give you help with BIOS options and updates, and talk you through any bundled utility programs. There may also be a separate booklet that tells you how to open your PC’s case. Manufacturers normally include any spare blanking plates and panels they removed from external drive bays when building your system, together with a bag of spare screws. Runners for mounting disk drives may be in this box of bits or clipped inside the PC’s case. Depending on your computer, you may also find spare data cables for your hard disks and adaptors for your power supply’s connector plugs. You’ll also find your motherboard CD and some driver discs, which should cover the hardware originally installed in your PC. Although old, they’ll get you up and running so that you can download newer drivers.

drivers specific to your PC. Ideally, this will be a bootable DVD that contains all the original data. You can use this to reinstall your system from scratch quickly and easily, but the process will overwrite any programs and data on your hard disk, so make sure you back up your PC first. Some recovery discs rely on data stored in a hidden partition on your hard disk and may be unable to restore your system after a disk upgrade or failure. Other systems rely entirely on information stored on the hard disk, and can usually be recovered by pressing a certain key during bootup. Although these methods of recovery are quick and convenient, they can present problems when upgrading. Some install procedures will ask for your original Windows CD. Many PC manufacturers transfer all the Windows install files to a folder on the hard disk, which can be used instead; if yours didn’t, you may be stuck. We recommend obtaining a full Windows CD for your upgrade toolkit, as discussed in our guide starting on page 22. At the very least, look for Windows setup files on your hard disk, typically in a folder called i386, containing several thousand files. Back up the contents of this folder to a CD. Whichever kind of disc you have, you should find your Windows Product Key on the Certificate of Authority sticker fixed to the outside of your computer’s case. You’ll need your Product Key to reinstall Windows, but the sticker also represents your licence. Lose it, and you may need to buy another copy of Windows.

ON YOUR PC ON DISC A computer is useless without an operating system, and most should come with a disc that allows you to repair or reinstall Windows in the event of a problem or a hard disk upgrade. This is likely to be one of two types: a Windows install CD or a system recovery CD. A Windows install CD is made by Microsoft, bears a holographic Microsoft logo and contains all the files you need to install Windows from scratch. You can also use this CD to recover a damaged Windows installation, as shown in our guide on page 22 (for XP) and page 26 (for Vista). A system recovery disc allows you to reset your system to the state it was in when it was delivered, including a fresh Windows installation and any s

Most versions of Windows come with some useful software that can help you diagnose problems with your PC. For detailed information on your hardware and software, press the Windows key and R. Type msinfo32 into the box that appears before clicking OK. For information on your graphics setup, use the same method to run dxdiag. This starts the DirectX Diagnostic Tool, which provides further information and can verify that your graphics or sound hardware is correctly installed. Finally, some useful parts are already fitted to your PC, such as the motherboard’s backplate, which you’ll need to keep if you upgrade your case but keep your motherboard. Never throw away any parts until you’ve completed a successful upgrade, and even then you might want to keep them handy.

CHAPTER 1

Essential kit and advice

rade toolkit RECOMMENDED Hardware tools MULTI-HEAD DRIVER A simple ratchet or electric screwdriver with a wide range of fitments should cover anything that a standard crosshead screwdriver can’t. Choose one with a range of hex sockets that includes at least 5, 6 and 7mm sizes.

TORCH This can be particularly useful when reconnecting a PC under a desk or making adjustments inside its case. A torch will also help you to read text on those components inside your PC that are labelled with small text or simply stamped with information.

CABLE TIES (not pictured) Great for tidying the inside of your PC after an upgrade, or to clip groups of wires or loose components out of the way while you work. Longer ties are more expensive but more versatile, and you can snip off any extra length.

DIGITAL CAMERA Use your digital camera to record the exact position, orientation or fit of computer components before you dismantle them in the course of an upgrade. This can be a real boon for complicated operations such as a case transplant.

STORAGE DEVICE A simple USB flash memory device lets you transfer any drivers or patches you need from another PC. A larger hard disk device is perfect for taking full backups before a disk upgrade or Windows reinstall.

ANTI-STATIC BAG Use a large anti-static bag as a safe surface for any sensitive components removed during an upgrade. Smaller ones are ideal for storing or transporting components. Most PC parts arrive in anti-static packaging, so don’t throw it away.

FINE PLIERS You can use these to remove and fit jumpers, hold parts in tight spaces and help extract bits that are reluctant to move. You can also use them to cut wires or cable ties and twist out metal blanking plates from a drive bay.

THERMAL PASTE You may need this for the trouble-free installation of a new processor or graphics card heatsink, or when transferring a processor to a new motherboard. Make sure that you don’t buy thermal adhesive by mistake.

ANTI-STATIC WRISTBAND Wearing this reduces the chances that static electricity will damage sensitive components such as your expansion cards, motherboard, memory or processor.

MEDIUM CROSSHEAD SCREWDRIVER This can fit and remove almost every screw inside a PC, allowing you to upgrade all the major components. Choose one with a long shaft so that you can reach recessed screws.

9

CHAPTER 1

Essential kit and advice

RECOMMENDED Software tools

10

CPUID

SISOFTWARE

CPU-Z

Sandra Lite

CPU-Z is a simple system information application. It can be run directly from the folder where you extract it, even if it’s on a removable or network disk. It reports information on your computer, divided between five tabs covering processor, cache, motherboard, memory and memory timing. It’s great for quick answers about your basic hardware, helping you plan or verify memory, processor or motherboard upgrades. Download it free from www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php.

If you need more information than CPU-Z can offer, SiSoft’s Sandra is ideal. The free Lite version contains multiple modules that analyse and report back on your hardware and software. The Analysis and Advice feature helps spot potential optimisations or any barriers to an upgrade such as a lack of free slots. The Performance Index tool lets you assess performance by categories such as memory or storage, helping to identify areas you could improve. Free from www.sisoftware.co.uk.

NETSTUMBLER.COM

HITACHI GST

NetStumbler

Drive Fitness Test

It’s easy to add wireless networking to a PC, but connecting reliably to a home network can sometimes be tricky. NetStumbler is a utility that scans for available networks, reporting information such as their radio channel and real-time signal strength. NetStumbler is a useful tool for finding any reception blackspots in your home or garden, or for testing the effectiveness of a new aerial. It can also help you avoid using the same wireless channel as your neighbours. Free from www.netstumbler.com/downloads.

Drive Fitness Test is available as an image file for creating a bootable CD-ROM. It’s published by Hitachi, but can recognise and test other manufacturers’ hard disks and most modern disk controllers and RAID arrays. Because you don’t run it in Windows, it’s useful for checking your PC’s hard disks before installing an operating system, or if you can’t boot successfully. Use the Drive Information tool for details of your current disk setup. Free from www. hitachigst.com/hdd/support/download.htm#DFT.

CHAPTER 1

Essential kit and advice

7BYTE COMPUTERS

MEMTEST

Hot CPU Tester

Memtest 86+

Hot CPU Tester is a compact Windows program designed to reveal problems through intensive tests. It has a configurable burn-in mode that can target your computer’s memory, processor or both. It’s particularly useful for verifying stability and testing the effectiveness of processor heatsinks and case cooling. Without a registration code you can run the burn-in test on only one processor core. However, you can run the program twice to get round this. Free from www.7byte.com.

Some memory problems aren’t enough to stop a computer working, but can make it freeze or act oddly. Even healthy memory may not be configured for the best performance. Run Memtest86+ from a bootable floppy or CD-ROM and it reports memory speed and configuration, then analyses your RAM. It can confirm or rule out faulty memory, and help ensure any timing tweaks that you make have increased speed without introducing errors. Free from www.memtest.org/#downiso.

FUTUREMARK

FUTUREMARK

PCMark05

3DMark06

PCMark is a benchmark program designed to test the performance of every PC component, reporting an overall figure that summarises its speed. It’s regularly updated with tests suited to the latest hardware, so you’ll get a good idea of how well your computer performs compared to newer PCs. Run PCMark before and after an upgrade to measure how far performance has improved, and to check that your upgrade was successful. Free from www.futuremark.com/download.

The 3DMark benchmark assesses all aspects of a PC’s 3D graphics performance and awards a speed-based score. The latest version is actually 3DMark Vantage, but this is designed only for Windows Vista and DirectX 10 graphics cards, so may not be much use if you’re upgrading an older computer. 3DMark06 produces comparable results for new and old cards alike, so it’s a good way to assess games performance before and after an upgrade. It’s free to download from www.futuremark.com/download. 11

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills IN THIS CHAPTER

12

How to… Restore your system

£{

How to… Use Windows Update

£x

Finding and installing drivers

£È

How to… Upgrade your BIOS

£n

How to… Install or repair XP

ÓÓ

How to… Install or repair Vista

ÓÈ

pgrading your PC successfully requires a range of skills, from being able to identify your motherboard so that you can choose the correct hardware to installing drivers and keeping Windows happy. In this chapter, we’ll take you through the essential skills you’ll need to use when you follow our upgrade advice later on. Keep this section handy and refer to it as often as you need to during your upgrading.

1

´

¯ß

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

HOW TO…

Restore your system If an upgrade goes wrong, System Restore – built into Windows Me and later – allows you to return your PC to a working state TURN IT ON First, make sure System Restore is on. Press the Windows+Break keys. Click the System Restore tab at the top (in Vista and Windows 7, click System protection), and make sure the box marked Turn off System Restore isn’t ticked (in Vista, make sure that drive C is ticked). There must be at least 200MB of free space on your hard disk for System Restore to work. If there isn’t, you’ll need to clear out unwanted files. In XP and Me use the slider to specify how much disk space System Restore can use; the more it has, the more restore points it can keep. Vista and 7 have automatic settings.

1

CREATE A RESTORE POINT Every time you make a significant change to your system, such as installing a new application, Windows automatically creates a restore point. It’s still good practice to create a restore point manually before you make any changes, so you know for sure that you have something to fall back on. To create a restore point, go to Start, All Programs, Accessories, System Tools, System Restore. Choose Create a restore point, and follow through the wizard (in Vista, click Open System Protection and click the Create button).

2

14

RESTORE YOUR SYSTEM When your PC has a problem, you can revert to any saved restore point. If you know which software is causing the problem, first remove it using Add/ Remove Programs. If it’s a driver, turn off your PC and remove the relevant hardware, too. Next, with your PC running, open System Restore as before and this time choose Restore my computer to an earlier time. Click Next and choose a restore point (Vista and 7 choose one automatically, but you can click Choose a different restore point instead). Pay close attention to the date: use the latest point when you’re sure the system worked properly. Allow the restore to finish and your PC to restart.

3

EMERGENCY RESTORE If something has gone really wrong, your PC may not even boot into Windows. While the PC is booting, keep pressing F8. Instead of the normal Windows startup routine, you’ll be offered a menu. Choose Safe mode with command prompt. Log on as an administrator, and at the command prompt type c:\windows\system32\restore\rstrui.exe (in Vista and 7, type c:\windows\system32\rstrui.exe). This starts System Restore, and you can then choose a restore point to go back to.

4

1

2

3

4

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

HOW TO…

Use Windows Update Windows Update will keep your PC running at its best and is essential for new Windows installations. Here’s how to use it GET THE UPDATER For complete control over what you install on your PC, it’s better to use Windows Update manually. Using Internet Explorer, go to www.windowsupdate.com (in Vista and Windows 7, select Windows Update from the Start menu). A security warning will ask if you want to install the Windows Update software. Click the Install button. A page opens and asks you to get the latest Windows Update software. Click Install Now, then wait a few minutes as it installs.

1

GET UPDATES Once the software has been installed, you’ll see a welcome screen with two buttons: Express and Custom (Install updates and View available updates in Vista and 7). If you click Express, it will install the major updates. We recommend clicking Custom instead. This allows you to choose exactly which updates you install. You’ll see a message saying that the website is checking for the latest updates. In XP and earlier versions of Windows, a screen will appear asking you to upgrade some components of the Windows Update software. Click Download and Install Now. A window appears with a blue progress bar. Once it’s finished, click Restart when prompted.

2

1

2

CUSTOMISE YOUR UPDATES Using Internet Explorer, reconnect to www. windowsupdate.com. You’ll skip to the welcome screen. Click Custom as before. After a few seconds, you’ll see a page called Customise your Results. It shows a list of all the high-priority updates available. Browse through and untick any that you don’t want. You can also browse updates for other Microsoft software and for hardware drivers by clicking the Software, optional and Hardware, optional links on the left (these are displayed in the main list in Vista and 7).

Tip 3

3

INSTALL UPDATES Once you’ve selected everything you want, click Install Updates at the top left (Install in Vista and 7). You’ll be told the number of updates and an estimated download time. If you’re happy, click Install Updates. Accept the licence agreement. The updates download and install in turn. When the updates have all finished, click Restart Now.

4

4

Windows Update is great for downloading updates to a single PC that’s permanently connected to the internet. If you need to install updates on several computers or a PC without internet access, you can download them from the Microsoft website instead. You can then burn them to a CD to share between PCs or take elsewhere. Using your web browser, go to www. microsoft.com/downloads. Click on Windows Security & Updates on the left. The most popular downloads are listed here. Click the Release Date heading to see the latest downloads, or click Advanced Search at the top to narrow down the list.

15

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

Finding and installing drivers

µ

Once you’re on the website, there should be a link for Support. Just keep following the links for motherboards and drivers. Eventually, you’ll get to a point where you’ll need to enter the details of your motherboard to locate the driver download page for your model. It’s vital you get exactly the right model in order to get the correct drivers for your computer. If you can’t find the details on the box or in the manual, then the motherboard’s name is usually written on the board itself. After you’ve entered your motherboard’s details, you’ll be presented with a long list of drivers divided by type, such as graphics or networking. For each heading, download one driver, making sure that you select the latest version. Most driver packages cater for all versions of Windows, but check the details to ensure that you download the correct driver for your operating system.

MOTHERBOARDS

GRAPHICS CARDS

The motherboard is the main part of your PC and it comes with plenty of built-in features, including onboard sound, networking, storage drivers and potentially even graphics. Windows, particularly Vista, will have drivers for many of these things, but if you want the best performance and the best range of features, you’ll need the latest drivers. You can get everything for your motherboard from the manufacturer’s website. You’ll find the address in your motherboard’s manual. If not, then use a search engine to find the URL.

If you’re using onboard graphics, you’ll be able to find the latest drivers on the motherboard manufacturer’s website. If you’re using a dedicated graphics card, you should download the drivers directly from ATI’s or Nvidia’s sites. This will ensure that you get the best performance and stability from your graphics card.

NVIDIA Nvidia uses a unified driver package, so one download will work for most of its graphics cards.

µ

ATI gives you a choice of files to download, but the full Catalyst Control Suite is the best choice for all computers

ANY HARDWARE INSTALLED on your computer has a driver that tells Windows how it works and how it should be used. Over time these drivers can become out of date, and new applications may not work correctly. Some drivers, such as those for graphics cards, can even make your computer work faster. It’s worth downloading and updating your drivers on a regular basis. A second reason to download drivers is if you’re reinstalling Windows. Getting the latest drivers from the internet is better than using the ones on a disc, as they’ll be up to date. If you can’t download drivers before installing Windows, use the drivers that came on the disc until you have a working computer, then follow these instructions to download the latest drivers and install them afterwards. Thanks to the internet, getting drivers is incredibly easy and shouldn’t take too long.

You’ll need to perform several file downloads in order to get the latest motherboard drivers

¯Ø

CHAPTER 2

µ

Essential skills

This makes installation simple. Visit www.nvidia. com and select Download Drivers from the Download Drivers menu in the top-left of the screen. Select the type of card (GeForce for consumer graphics cards) and the series of card that you have, such as 9xxx series for a GeForce 9600 GT. Select your language as English (UK) and click Search. Tick the box to accept the licence agreement and click Download. It’s important to select your graphics card model, as not every driver package has the driver for every graphics card. If you download the wrong package, your card won’t be detected and the driver will be unable to be updated.

OTHER DEVICES

ATI

REGULAR CHECKS

ATI has a similar unified driver architecture to Nvidia. Visit http://ati.amd.com and click on Support & Drivers. Click on the Download graphics drivers link. On the next page, select which operating system you’ll be using, select Radeon from the list (consumer graphics cards are all Radeon models), and then select your particular card. Click Go to be taken to the driver selection page. You should select Catalyst Software Suite, as this includes the driver and the Catalyst Control Panel for configuring settings. Make sure you select your model of graphics card from the list, or you may get a version of the driver that doesn’t support your card.

You should regularly check manufacturers’ websites and see if updates are available. Typically, graphics card drivers are updated monthly, while other devices are updated less regularly. Driver updates fix known problems and can help your PC become more stable and perform better, while some even add new features. It’s worth going back to a manufacturer’s site regularly to check for updates if you’re suffering from a problem, as a new driver can often fix this. Manufacturers’ websites are also useful if you want help with a product. You can also find manuals for download, which can be really helpful if you lose your printed version and need to check a detail or plan an upgrade.

If you’re installing other hardware, such as a wireless network adaptor, TV tuner or printer, you’ll need to download the latest drivers for these, too. In a similar way to the procedure described above, visit the manufacturer’s website and follow the links until you get to where you can select which device you want to download drivers for. Check a device’s manual for full details on the manufacturer’s website. If you can’t find any information, a Google search for the manufacturer’s name should bring up the details you need. Remember to make sure you get the right driver for your device and for the operating system that you require.

µ

You’ll be able to find the latest drivers for all your devices on the internet Nvidia has a unified driver architecture, so a single download is all you need

Tip New versions of drivers can sometimes fix problems with your computer. If you’re having trouble with a particular device, look for a newer driver before doing anything else.

17

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

HOW TO…

Upgrade your BIOS A new BIOS can mean new features and make your computer more stable. Here we explain the easy way to upgrade it YOUR COMPUTER’S BIOS is responsible for managing and controlling all the hardware in your computer. Motherboard manufacturers occasionally release new BIOSes for their products to fix bugs in older versions, make your computer more stable and add new features, such as support for newer processors. These BIOS updates don’t have to be hard to install (or ‘flash’, as the upgrade is commonly known), as we’ll show you here. It depends on your motherboard’s manufacturer, so you should check the support site for details, although the basic concept is the same across all products. We’ll show you how to upgrade a BIOS using the three most popular methods: a built-in BIOS tool, Windows and (our preference if you don’t have the BIOS tool) a DOS boot disk. Before you start, you need to download the necessary tools from your motherboard manufacturer. Make sure that you find out the exact make and model of your motherboard, as installing the wrong type of BIOS can break your computer. Your motherboard’s manual or box should state its model number; if not, you’ll have to remove the side of your PC’s case and look inside. The model number of the motherboard will be written somewhere on the circuit board. Use this information to find your motherboard’s support page on its manufacturer’s website and download the most recent BIOS. Typically a BIOS download will come in a Zip file, which you should extract to a folder on your desktop. The Zip will contain some, but not always all, of the following: the BIOS file (usually with the extension .bin), instructions (.txt) and a DOS-based upgrade program (.exe). You should also check the utilities section for your motherboard to make sure that you’ve got the latest update tools. There’s usually a DOS-based tool to download, and a Windows-based tool (WinFlash is common, but so are proprietary tools such as @BIOS for Gigabyte motherboards), so download these as well. Store all your downloaded files in a folder called ‘Bios’ on your computer.

USING WINDOWS Using Windows to flash your BIOS is probably the easiest method, but there are problems associated with this type of upgrade. If your ¯s

update application is interrupted or crashes, you’ll be left with a partial BIOS and your computer won’t work. Before you upgrade your BIOS in Windows, shut down all unnecessary applications and Notification Area tasks. Don’t interrupt the process or restart your computer part-way through the process. RUN THE APPLICATION Find the Windows application that you downloaded and run it. We’re using WinFlash in this example, which is for Award BIOSes. It runs directly from the folder to which you extract it. If you’re using your motherboard manufacturer’s proprietary software, you may need to install it before you can run it. Close all other open applications.

1

SELECT THE NEW BIOS If you’re using WinFlash, select All from the Update Option menu, then choose Clear CMOS from the CMOS Option box. From the File menu, select Update BIOS, then browse to the BIOS file that you downloaded earlier and click Open. If you’re using your manufacturer’s proprietary software, you may have the option to search for and download the latest BIOS for your motherboard automatically. This isn’t always very reliable, though, so we don’t recommend that you use this option. Instead, you need to look for a manual update option and select the BIOS file that you downloaded earlier.

2

UPDATE THE BIOS In WinFlash, click the Update button (a similar option will exist in proprietary software) and wait for your BIOS to be upgraded. This will take a few minutes, and it’s normal for your screen to blink or your mouse and keyboard to become unresponsive. When the process has completed, you should restart your computer. The next steps deal with upgrading your BIOS in other ways, so if you don’t want to do this you can skip to Step 12.

3

USING DOS Upgrading your BIOS using DOS may seem antiquated, but it’s actually the best method for most computers. Without Windows running, there’s less chance of your computer crashing, so it’s generally safer. Make sure that you don’t reset your

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

computer until the upgrade process has completed. To use these steps, you’ll need a spare USB flash drive, which we’ll show you how to make bootable. Most drives made in the past couple of years should work, but not all will. If yours doesn’t, try using another one. Some BIOSes won’t boot from a USB flash drive, so we’ll also show you how to make a boot CD. CREATE A BOOTABLE DRIVE First make a bootable flash drive with Dell’s Diagnostic Distribution Package (ftp://ftp.us.dell.com/diags/ CW1310A0.exe). Download the 3.3MB file to your computer and run it. It will install the files to a folder on your hard disk and automatically run.

4

INSTALL TO A USB DRIVE Click Install to a USB Flash Drive. If your flash drive can’t be made bootable, you’ll get an error message.

5

Otherwise, make sure the correct USB drive is selected in the drop-down menu and click OK. After a few seconds, you’ll get a message telling you that your drive is ready. Use Windows Explorer to navigate to your drive, delete autoexec.bat and config.sys (these will run Dell’s tools if you don’t), and copy the ‘Bios’ folder you created earlier to the flash drive. ENTER THE BIOS Leave the USB drive connected and restart your computer. Enter your BIOS when prompted. You usually have to press Delete, F2 or F12, but we’ve seen other combinations, so check your motherboard’s manual or look for an onscreen message. To boot from your USB drive, you need to set your BIOS correctly. Look for an option to boot from USB; this option is usually in the Advanced section and may be called Boot From USB Devices, Boot Other Device or similar.

6

1

2

3

4

19

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

You’ll now need to set the boot device priority. Go to the option for the first boot device in the Advanced section and press Enter. If there’s an option for USB hard disk or USB flash drive, pick this (but bear in mind that USB FDD, USB CD or USB Zip options won’t work). If you don’t have this option, look in the Hard Disk boot priority section and your USB flash drive should be listed there. If it isn’t, your computer won’t boot from a USB key, so you’ll need to go back to Windows and follow Step 8 onwards to create a boot CD instead. RENAME FILES If your computer starts to boot from the USB flash drive but displays a ‘No LBA Support’ message, you’ll have to re-create your flash drive. Take the flash drive out and restart Windows. Use Explorer to go to the C:\dell\drivers\R162742\Boot folder. Change LBA.MBR to LBA.MBR.BAK and LBA16.BS to LBA16.BS.BAK. Also rename LBACHS.MBR as LBA.MBR and LBACHS16.BS as LBA16.BS. Go up one directory and run DDDP.exe. Follow the instructions in Step 5 to re-create your flash drive and copy the BIOS utilities.

7

äõ

CREATE A BOOT CD A boot CD will work on any computer, but you’ll need to create a boot CD every time you want to upgrade your BIOS, so it’s not ideal if you want to do regular updates. Go to www.bootdisk.com and download flashcd.zip (click on the Need To Flash Your BIOS On A PC With No 1.44 link). Unzip the ISO file to your hard disk. Download the trial version of UltraISO from www.ezbsystems.com and install the software. Run UltraISO and click Continue to Try. Click Open from the file menu and select the flashcd.iso file you downloaded earlier. Select Add files from the Action menu and click Open. Find the DOS upgrade utility and BIOS file that you downloaded earlier, select them and click Open. Select Save from the File menu. Select Burn Image from the Tools menu, insert a blank CD and click Burn. When done, leave the CD in your PC’s optical drive, restart it and make sure that your BIOS is set to boot from CD.

8

UPGRADE YOUR BIOS When you see the command prompt, you need to type in the command to upgrade your BIOS. If you’re using

9

5

6

7

8

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

the Boot CD, type r:. If you’re using the flash disk, type cd bios. You then need to type the command to upgrade your BIOS. To check the filename, type dir and make a note of the executable file (.exe) and the BIOS file (usually .bin). The executable file is the command you need to type. This is usually . In our case, this is awdflash newbios.bin. You’ll usually be prompted to save the current BIOS before confirming that you want to upgrade the existing one. Follow the options to upgrade your BIOS, then skip to Step 12.

USING THE UPGRADE UTILITY If your BIOS has a built-in flash tool, this is the best method of upgrading it, as there’s no operating system involved, so consequently there’s less chance of a crash.

motherboard, but look out for a message that says something like BIOS Flash. If you don’t see a message, enter your BIOS. Look out for a BIOS Flash option, which may be in the menu or a separate entry at the bottom of the screen. The BIOS in the screen below has a utility called Q-Flash, which is accessed by pressing F8. UPGRADE THE BIOS FROM YOUR FLASH DRIVE When the utility starts, select the option to update the BIOS from a drive. Select the relevant drive – our flash drive was drive A: as we had no floppy disk drive. Navigate to the BIOS file you copied to the flash drive and press Enter. When prompted, choose to upgrade the BIOS. When the process is complete, restart your computer.

11

RESETTING THE SETTINGS FLASH YOUR BIOS To use your BIOS’s upgrade utility, you’ll need a USB flash drive. Copy the BIOS file that you downloaded to it and, leaving the drive plugged in, restart your computer. The process will vary, depending on your

10

CONFIGURE YOUR BIOS Once you’ve upgraded your BIOS, you may find that your computer has reset all your BIOS settings. You must go through each of the menus and make sure everything’s configured correctly.

12

9

10

11

12

21

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

HOW TO…

Install or repair XP Windows XP is generally reliable, but can become less so over time. Here’s how to repair your operating system or completely reinstall it

Before you begin A repair installation won’t fix every problem. If your computer’s not working properly, it’s best either to perform a fresh install of Windows XP using these instructions or restore a backup of your system. If you’re going to do a repair installation, your Windows disc needs to contain the same version of service pack as your PC. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to create a slipstreamed disc (see http://tinyurl.com/ slipstreamxp).

ää

START YOUR COMPUTER Turn your PC on and put the Windows XP CD into your optical drive. If you’re using a brand new hard disk, the XP installation routine will load automatically. If you’re using an old hard disk that already has an operating system on it, you need to press any key when prompted onscreen. If you don’t, your old operating system will start and you’ll have to reset your PC to load the installer. Your computer will take a few minutes to start the installation routine properly, so don’t worry if you see a blank page for a while.

1

ADD ADDITIONAL DRIVES If you have a RAID controller or hard disk that’s not detected (you’ll discover this later on and may need to restart the installation routine), you need to add additional drivers. When prompted, press F6. Windows will continue copying files, but after a couple of minutes, a screen will ask what drivers you want to add. Press S to specify additional devices. You’ll need to have the files on a floppy disk and a floppy disk drive, as Windows XP can’t read

2

additional drivers from CD or USB drives in the same way as Vista. When you’re done, press Enter. SELECT HARD DISKS On the next screen, press Enter to install a fresh copy of Windows XP. Press F8 to accept the licence agreement. If you want to repair your installation, press R and skip to Step 5. For a new installation, select the partition on which you want Windows to be installed and go to Step 4. If you have a new disk, select it (usually MB Disk 0). Press C to create a new partition. You have to select the partition size in megabytes (1,024MB equals 1GB). Generally, we’d recommend leaving at least 40GB (40,960MB) for the second partition, which you can use for backups and storing files you don’t want to overwrite during a fresh operating system installation. Subtract the size of the second partition you want from the figure in the box and enter this. Press Enter to apply. Select Unpartitioned Space and press C. Press Enter to create the partition. Don’t worry if you have a small amount of unpartitioned space left, as this space can’t be used. Select C: and press Enter to install.

3

1

2

3

4

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

FORMAT THE HARD DISK The installation routine has to format the hard disk before it can copy the Windows XP files to it. Select Format NTFS and press Enter. While Windows Vista has a speedy format option, XP’s installation takes quite a while, and you may have to wait 30 minutes or more for it to complete. Once the hard disk has been formatted, the Windows files are copied to the disk. Your computer will reboot automatically once this is done and continue the installation using a graphical tool.

4

CHANGE REGIONAL SETTINGS The first choice you get is to select which language you want to use. Click Customize and change Standards and formats to United Kingdom. Change the Location to United Kingdom, too. Click on the Languages tab and click on the Details button. Click Add, select United Kingdom as the input language and click OK. Select US in the Installed services window and click Remove and then OK. You’ll get a warning saying that it will be removed the next time you

5

reboot your PC. Click OK on this message. Click on the Advanced tab and choose English (United Kingdom) from the drop-down menu. Click OK to apply these settings, then Next. ENTER YOUR PRODUCT KEY Enter your name in the next box, although you can leave the Organization field blank if you wish. Click Next. Enter your product key, which will be printed inside the box in which your copy of Windows XP came. On the next screen, give your PC a more meaningful name than the one that Windows gives it and click Next.

6

SET THE DATE AND TIME Even though you told Windows in every setting that you’re in the UK, it still sets itself to US time. Change the Time Zone option to GMT. Select the current date and time, and click Next. Windows will next install the network drivers for your onboard network card. When prompted, leave the network setting as Typical settings and click Next. Windows will finish copying files and finalise the installation.

7

5

6

7

8

Tip Make your choices carefully in the blue setup screens, as you can’t go back once you’ve made a choice.

23

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

RUN WINDOWS FOR THE FIRST TIME When Windows starts for the first time, click OK when the dialog box appears to tell you the screen resolution will be automatically changed. Click OK again to confirm that the new resolution has worked. On the next screen, select ‘Help protect my PC by turning on Automatic Updates now’ and click Next. Enter your name on the next screen, and anyone else that will be using your computer (if you’re doing a Repair installation, make sure that you type in the same usernames as used originally and jump to Step 13). Click Next and then Finish. You can now remove the Windows XP installation CD.

8

INSTALL THE MOTHERBOARD DRIVERS Although Windows is now working, you still need to install all the relevant drivers to make sure that everything will work smoothly. The first place to start is with the motherboard drivers. If you downloaded the drivers earlier, insert the USB key or disc you saved them to. If you can’t do this, insert the provided driver disc and follow the onscreen instructions. Once you’re connected to the internet, download the latest drivers (see page 16) and then follow these instructions. For every driver you downloaded, run the associated file. It’s best to start with the chipset driver, but the order afterwards doesn’t matter. If Windows displays any warning messages, just click OK. Some files you download are just archive files that extract the real driver files to your hard

9

24

disk. If this is the case, navigate to the folder the files were extracted to and run the Setup program you’ll find there. You’ll probably need to restart your PC after each driver installation. INSTALL GRAPHICS CARD DRIVERS Windows will install its own graphics drivers for any onboard or dedicated cards that you have. These are good enough to run Windows, but you won’t be able to play games properly. Instead, you need to install the graphics drivers. Both ATI and Nvidia provide a single driver package, so all you have to do is run the file you downloaded. If you couldn’t download the drivers earlier, you need to insert the bundled CD, but remember to download newer drivers later on. Reboot after the drivers have been installed. Right-click on the desktop, select Properties, Settings, and change the display resolution to match your monitor’s native resolution.

10

INSTALL OTHER PERIPHERALS You can now install the other peripherals that you’ve added to your PC. Install the relevant driver files for each device that’s plugged into your motherboard. For USB devices, you need to install the driver file first and, when prompted, connect the device to a USB port. If you’re in any doubt, you should read the manual that came with your peripheral. If you’ve installed a wireless adaptor, make sure that you connect to your wireless network, following the provided instructions.

11

9

10

11

12

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

INSTALL XP SERVICE PACK 3 When everything is installed, you should install Windows XP Service Pack 3, unless the installation disc you used included it, in which case you can skip to the final step. To install Service Pack 3, you should first connect to the internet. The easiest way to force it to install is to go to http://tinyurl.com/ XPservicepack. Click Download and save the file to your hard disk. When it’s finished, run the file you downloaded. Follow the wizard through. Service Pack 3 will take up to an hour to install, restarting your computer when necessary.

12

RUN WINDOWS UPDATE Visit www. windowsupdate.com and click on the Custom button. Windows Update will then prompt you to download the Windows Genuine Advantage Tool in order to use the service. Click the Download and Install Now button and follow the wizard through. Click Continue until you get back to the first screen and then click the Custom button again. Windows Update will then search for the latest updates for your computer. When the list comes back, select the updates that you want, click Review and install updates, and then Install Updates to install them.

13

ACTIVATE WINDOWS If your computer wasn’t connected to the internet while you were installing Windows XP, it won’t yet be

14

activated. Windows XP puts a permanent icon in the Notification Area that displays regular messages warning you about activation. Doubleclick the icon that looks like two keys. In the next dialog box, select Yes, activate Windows over the internet now and click Next. Choose whether you want to register with Microsoft and click Next. You should get a message saying that you’ve activated Windows. Click OK. If not, you may need to activate it over the phone using the onscreen instructions. USER SETTINGS Your PC and its users are not password-protected by default. If you’d like to add some security to your PC, you can change this. Click on the Start menu and select the Control Panel. Click on User Accounts, select your username and click on Create a password. Enter your new password and click Create Password. On the next screen click Yes, Make Private to ensure your files and folders remain private. Repeat these steps for every user you want to be password-protected.

15

FORMAT HARD DISK The Windows setup wizard only formats the partition on which Windows is installed. If you created a separate partition, you won’t be able to use it yet, as it’s not formatted. Click on the Start menu, My Computer, right-click the D: drive and select Format. Click OK, make sure NTFS is selected and click Format. You can now install your software on that partition.

16

13

14

15

16

Tip It’s essential that you run Windows Update after an installation to get the latest updates and security patches.

25

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

HOW TO…

Install or repair Vista The steps for installing or repairing Vista are similar to XP, but there are some crucial differences. Here we explain what they are

Before you begin A repair installation won’t fix every problem. If your computer’s not working properly, it’s best either to perform a fresh installation of Vista using these instructions, or restore a backup of your system. If you’re going to do a repair installation, your Windows disc needs to contain the same version of service pack as your PC. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to create a slipstreamed disc (see http://tinyurl.com/ slipstreamvista).

START YOUR COMPUTER Turn on your PC and put the Windows Vista DVD into the optical drive. If you have a new hard disk, the Vista installation routine will load automatically, but if you’re using an old hard disk with an operating system already on it, press any key when prompted. If you don’t, your old operating system will start and you’ll have to reset your PC to start the setup wizard. Your computer will take a few minutes to start the installation routine, so don’t worry if you just see a blank page for a while.

1

CHOOSE YOUR LANGUAGE OPTIONS The first screen that appears will ask you to choose which language you want to use. Select English from the drop-down menu. Select English (United Kingdom) as the time and currency format. This should automatically change the keyboard or input method to UK. If it doesn’t, select UK from the third drop-down menu. Click Next to continue.

2

3

äØ

INSTALL VISTA On the next screen, click ‘What to know before installing Windows’ if

you want additional information about Windows Vista. The ‘Repair your computer’ link needs to be used only if you’ve already installed Vista and are having problems with the installation. Otherwise, just click the Install now button. ENTER YOUR PRODUCT KEY Windows will prompt you to type your product key, which is inside the box in which your copy of Windows came. Leave the ‘Automatically activate Windows when I’m online’ box ticked to let Windows activate itself when you connect to the internet. If you’re performing a new installation, enter the key now. Don’t enter your product key if you’re doing a repair installation, otherwise you may run into problems, and click No any time that you’re prompted to enter a key. Don’t tick the Automatically activate Windows box, either. Click Next, and click the tick box on the next screen to confirm that you’ve read the licence agreement and then click Next again. If you haven’t already entered your product key, select which version of Vista you have (Home Premium, Business, Ultimate and so on). Select ‘I have

4

1

2

3

4

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

selected the edition of Windows that I purchased’ and click Next to continue. CHOOSE TYPE OF INSTALLATION You’ll be asked to choose if you want to upgrade an old copy of Windows or run a new Custom installation. If you’re repairing your copy of Vista, click Upgrade. If you’re installing a fresh copy of the operating system, select the Custom option.

5

SELECT HARD DISK Your hard disk should automatically be detected by Windows Vista. If it isn’t, click on the Load Driver button and insert the CD, USB key or floppy disk with the relevant driver. You should need to do this only if you’re using RAID or you have a brand new motherboard that Windows doesn’t recognise. From the list of disks, select the one on which you want Windows to be installed. If you’ve installed Windows before, you’ll need to select the first partition in the list and click Next. If you’re installing to a new disk, select it (this is usually Disk 0). If you click Next, Windows will format the entire disk automatically. However, it’s

6

best to create at least two partitions: one for Windows, and a smaller one for backups, drivers and other files you want permanently. Click Advanced options and then New to add a new partition. You have to select the size of the partition in megabytes (1,024MB equals 1GB). Generally, we’d recommend leaving at least 40GB (40,960MB) for the second partition. So subtract the size of second partition you want from the figure in the box, and enter this. Click Apply. Select Disk 0 Unallocated Space, click New and click Apply. You now have two partitions. FORMAT DISKS To make things easier once you’ve started Windows, you should format your partitions now. Select Partition 1 and click Format. Click OK in the warning box. You’ll see an hourglass for a few moments while the disk is formatted. Repeat these steps for the second disk. When that has been formatted, click Next.

7

INSTALLING WINDOWS FILES Next, Windows will automatically copy system files and install the necessary drivers to get your PC

8

5

6

7

8

Tip Windows Update is essential on all new computers, as it will make sure that you’ve got the latest patches and drivers.

27

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

working on the first partition that you created. This process can take up to 30 minutes, and your computer will restart several times during the operation. There’s nothing for you to worry about at this point; just sit back and let Windows do its job until the system starts for the first time. SET UP A USERNAME When your computer starts Windows Vista for the first time, you’ll be asked to enter a username and password. While the password is optional, if you want to protect your files from unwanted attention and ensure that only authorised users can access your PC, it’s vital that you have one. Type in a username and password, and then click Next. Give your computer a meaningful name and then choose which desktop background you’d like. Click Next to continue.

9

PROTECT WINDOWS Windows will now ask whether you want to turn on Windows Updates automatically. The best option is to use the recommended settings, so tick that box. Next, set the date and time of your computer. Make sure your time zone has been set correctly. If you chose your location as UK in the Windows installation routine, then the time zone will be set to GMT by default. Click Next and then Start to launch Windows.

10

11

äs

START WINDOWS Windows will now perform some tests on your computer’s

performance. These will take around five minutes to complete. Once they’ve finished, you’ll be presented with the login screen. If you set a password, you’ll have to enter it now and press Enter. Windows will prepare your desktop for its first use and log you on. You’ll now see the Welcome Center, which gives you quick access to information about Vista and also short cuts to common tasks, such as adding new users. The next time you start Windows, you’ll see a box, which you can tick if you don’t want to see the Welcome Center again. You can now remove the Windows Vista installation DVD. INSTALL MOTHERBOARD DRIVERS Although Windows is now working, you still need to install all the relevant drivers to make sure that everything else on your system will work smoothly. The first place to start is with your motherboard’s drivers. If you downloaded these earlier, insert the USB key or disc to which you saved them. If you couldn’t do this, insert the driver disc and follow the onscreen instructions. You’ll need to download the updated drivers later when you’re connected to the internet (see page 16), and then follow these instructions. For each driver you downloaded, run the associated file. It’s best to start with the chipset driver, but the order afterwards doesn’t matter. If Windows displays any warning messages, just click OK. Be careful, as some files you download are actually just archive files that extract the

12

9

10

11

12

CHAPTER 2

Essential skills

actual driver files to your hard disk. If this is the case, navigate to the folder the files were extracted to and run the Setup program that you find there. You’ll probably need to restart your computer after each driver installation. INSTALL GRAPHICS CARD DRIVERS Windows will install its own graphics drivers for any onboard or dedicated cards that you have. These are good enough to run Windows, but you won’t be able to play games properly. Instead, you’ll need to install the graphics drivers. Both ATI and Nvidia provide a single driver package (see page 16 for more information). You simply have to run the file that you downloaded. If you couldn’t download the drivers earlier, you need to insert the bundled CD, but remember to download newer drivers later on. Restart your computer after the graphics drivers have been installed. Right-click on the desktop, select Personalize, then Display Properties and change the display resolution to match your monitor’s native resolution.

13

the manual that came with your peripheral. If you’ve installed a wireless adaptor, make sure that you connect it to your wireless network and follow the provided instructions. INSTALL SERVICE PACK 2 When everything else is installed, you should install Windows Vista Service Pack 2, unless the installation disc you used included this, in which case you can skip to the final step. You should also make sure that you’ve installed Service Pack 1. To install the Service Packs, connect to the net and go to http://tinyurl.com/vistaservicepack2. Click Download and save the file to your hard disk. When it’s finished downloading, run the file and follow the wizard. Each Service Pack will take around an hour to install and will restart your computer when necessary.

15

INSTALL OTHER PERIPHERALS You can now install the other peripherals that you’ve added to your PC. Install the relevant driver files for each device that’s plugged into your motherboard. For USB devices, you need to install the driver file first and, when prompted, connect the device to a USB port. If you’re in any doubt, you should read

RUN WINDOWS UPDATE Click on the Start menu, type Windows Update and click the entry that appears. Click the Check for Updates button, and Windows will connect to Microsoft’s update server and detect which updates you need. Click on ‘View available updates’ and have a look at the list. There will be some that have been preselected as important updates, but there are also some optional ones, including even newer drivers for your hardware. Select which ones you’d like to update and then click Install. Once they’re installed, your job is done.

13

14

15

16

14

16

Tip The blue arrow in the top-left of the installation screens allows you to go back to a previous step.

29

CHAPTER 3

Internal

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades IN THIS CHAPTER

30

Upgrading to Windows 7

ÎÓ

Upgrading your Intel processor

În

Upgrading your AMD processor

{ä

Testing your processor

{{

Upgrading your motherboard

{È

Adding more memory

xÈ

Upgrading your hard disk

Èä

Installing an optical drive

Èn

Upgrading your graphics card

ÇÓ

Upgrading your PC case

ÇÈ

Upgrading your power supply unit

nÓ

Silencing your PC

nÈ

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

ost of the upgrades you can make to your PC take place inside its case. In this chapter we’ll cover everything from installing expansion cards and extra memory into free slots to replacing the entire motherboard. The advice on these pages tells you what you can expect to upgrade based on the age of your PC, while the troubleshooting and compatibility checklists will help you make sure your upgrades are performed smoothly and effectively.

M

´

31

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? Windows 7 is Microsoft’s latest operating system. It takes all the good parts of Vista, improves stability and adds a better user interface. The hardware requirements are the same as for Windows Vista, so pretty much any computer can run it without any major upgrades.

Upgrading to Windows 7 WINDOWS VISTA WASN’T quite the success that Microsoft had hoped, and many users didn’t bother to upgrade from Windows XP. One of the main problems was that Vista didn’t run as smoothly or as well as Windows XP. With Windows 7, Microsoft’s aim has been to fix all Vista’s problems and make the new operating system faster to load and quicker when running. The good news is that Microsoft has achieved these goals. The other good news is that Windows 7 has the same requirements as Windows Vista. So, if your computer runs Vista, you can upgrade with no problems; if you run Windows XP you may only have to make some minor upgrades, such as

DEVICE DRIVERS Windows 7 recognises a vast range of devices, but of devices, but you’ll need a specific Windows 7 driver (Vista drivers may also work) for some hardware. Check driver availability before you upgrade.

installing more memory (see Compatibility Checklist, opposite) for more information. Microsoft’s Windows 7 Upgrade Advisor (http:// tinyurl.com/7upgradeadvisor) will also let you know if your computer’s capable of running the new OS.

VERSION THERAPY Windows 7 is available in three main editions. Each edition comes in a 32-bit or 64-bit version: the 64-bit version supports more than 4GB of RAM, although some third-party applications, particularly older ones, won’t run on this version. We recommend buying the 64-bit version only if you have a powerful PC less than a year old (or you’re

WINDOWS MEDIA CENTER Media Center is built into all versions of Windows 7 and lets you watch TV, videos and films, view photos and listen to music using a TV-friendly interface.

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT Your PC will be capable of running Windows 7, but make sure that your PC has at least 1GB of RAM.

2003-2006 If you’re running Windows XP, the odds are that your computer can run Windows 7. You may need to upgrade your graphics card and add more RAM, though.

PRE-2003 You PC may be able to run Windows 7, but don’t get your hopes up too high. You’ll probably need to install more memory and may need to undertake more serious upgrades, such as the motherboard and processor.

GADGETS Gadgets can be added to the desktop. They display useful information such as the current weather and RSS feeds.

TASKBAR The Taskbar now displays only icons for programs. Those highlighted are running programs; the standard icons are shortcuts to launch programs.

ßä

WINDOWS EXPERIENCE INDEX Windows 7 can assess how well it is running on your computer. The Windows Experience Index score can help you detect performance bottlenecks and plan any necessary hardware upgrades.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

upgrading to a fast quad-core processor) and you need lots of memory; for editing video, for example. The versions available are Home Premium, Professional and Ultimate. Full details are available at www.microsoft.com/windows7. For most people, Home Premium is the best choice, as it’s designed for consumers. Professional has all the features of Home Premium but adds some extra business features, such as better networking for corporate networks. Ultimate has all the features of both Home Premium and Professional, but is the most expensive. A new feature called Anytime Upgrade lets you upgrade the version of Windows 7 without having to reinstall the operating system. There’s also one added complication: Windows 7 won’t ship with Internet Explorer in Europe because of EU competition laws. However, Internet Explorer will be provided on a separate disc in the box, so it will be easy to install. If you’d rather use a different browser, such as Firefox, it’s worth downloading your favourite web browser and saving it onto a USB flash drive.

DRIVER LESSONS We also recommend that you download drivers for your motherboard, graphics card and other devices before you start (see page 16 for more information). If you can’t find Windows 7-specific drivers, download the Vista ones instead. However, only install the Vista drivers if Windows 7 fails to identify your hardware. Save the drivers to a USB flash drive before you begin the installation so you’ll have them to hand when you need them. Windows 7 can perform an upgrade on your existing computer, but we don’t recommend this method, as it’s likely to carry over any existing problems. Instead, you should perform a fresh installation as described on the next four pages. This means you’ll need to back up your existing files and reinstall any software that you want to use. We recommend using Norton Ghost 14 to make a backup of important files to an external hard disk. Our instructions tell you how to wipe your hard disk and all your files, but you can leave your existing files alone if you don’t want to make a backup. Finally, you can use Windows Easy Transfer (in XP and Vista) to back up your files to CD, DVD, an external hard disk or a flash drive. When Windows 7 has completed its installation you can then run its version of Easy Transfer and import your saved files and settings.

✔

PROCESSOR/MEMORY

✔

STORAGE

✔

GRAPHICS CHIPSET

To be Windows 7-capable your PC needs at least a 1GHz processor and 1GB of RAM (the same as recommended for Vista). For the best performance, though, we recommend a dualcore processor and 2GB of RAM. To find out your computer’s specifications, right-click Computer in the Start menu (My Computer in Windows XP) and select Properties.

Windows 7 needs at least 16GB of free disk space (20GB for the 64-bit editions), but 40GB is a more realistic goal. We recommend that you install Windows 7 on a 160GB hard disk, but look for a 250GB or larger disk if you want to store lots of files. You’ll also need a DVD drive.

To use the Aero interface, complete with its transparent windows, you’ll need a graphics card that’s DirectX 9-compatible. If your computer was built within the past three years you’ll have a suitable graphics chip. To find out for sure, you can see a list of ATI’s DirectX 9 graphics cards at http:// tinyurl.com/ATIChips and Nvidia’s at http:// tinyurl.com/NvidiaChips. To find out what your current graphics chip is, press the Windows+R keys to get a run command and type dxdiag. 33

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Install Windows 7 START YOUR COMPUTER Turn on your PC and put the Windows 7 DVD into its optical drive. If you have a new hard disk, the installation routine will load automatically. If you’re using an old hard disk with an operating system already on it, you need to press any key when prompted. If you don’t, your old operating system will start and you’ll have to reset your PC to start the setup wizard. If the new Windows installer doesn’t appear, you’ll need to access your PC’s BIOS. Check the boot options here to make sure your optical drive is listed first.

1

CHOOSE YOUR LANGUAGE OPTIONS The first screen that appears will ask you which language you want to use. Select English from the drop-down menu. It should change the next drop-down box, but select English (United Kingdom) as the time and currency format if it doesn’t. Your keyboard or input method should be set to United Kingdom automatically when you set the language. If it isn’t, select United Kingdom from the third drop-down menu. Click Next to continue.

2

Tip The blue arrow at the top-left of the setup screens can be used to go back to the previous installation step. Use it if you make a mistake and want to correct your settings.

34

INSTALL WINDOWS 7 On the next screen, click ‘What to know before installing Windows’ if you want additional information about Windows 7. The ‘Repair your computer’ link starts the repair console, which can fix problems with a current Windows 7 installation. To install Windows 7, click the ‘Install now’ button.

3

ACCEPT THE LICENCE TERMS You’ll now be prompted to accept the terms. These are long and wordy, but read through them if you want to know what your licence allows. Tick the ‘I accept the license terms’ box when you’re done. Click Next to continue to the next stage.

4

CHOOSE TYPE OF INSTALLATION On the next screen, you’ll be asked which type of installation you want to perform. Upgrade will upgrade your existing version of Windows. It can also be used to repair a damaged Windows 7 installation. However, this option can be run only from inside Windows. For a fresh installation, select Custom (advanced).

5

1

2

3

4

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

SELECT HARD DISK Your hard disk should automatically be detected by Windows 7. If it isn’t, click on the Load Driver button and insert the CD, USB key or floppy disk with the relevant driver. You should need to do this only if you’re using RAID or you have a new motherboard that Windows doesn’t recognise. If you’re using an old hard disk, it’s best to start afresh. Select the partition that contains your old operating system, choose Advanced and click Delete. You can also delete any other partitions this way. You’re now ready to continue. For a fresh disk, or an old disk where you’ve wiped the existing partitions, you can just select Unallocated Space and click Next. Windows will automatically create the necessary disk partitions and perform the installation. We recommend that you have at least two partitions: one for Windows, and a smaller one for storing backups, drivers and other files you want to keep permanently. Select the Unallocated Space and click Advanced and then New. You have to select the size of the partition in megabytes (where 1,024MB

FORMAT DISKS To make things easier once you’ve started Windows, you should format your partitions now. Select Partition 2 (the installation will deal with Partition 1 automatically) and click Format. Click OK in the warning box. You’ll get a spinning cursor for a few moments while the disk is formatted. Repeat these steps for the second partition and any others you have that you want to wipe (leave all partitions or disks with important data on them alone). When done, click Partition 2 and then Next.

5

6

7

8

6

is equal to 1GB). Generally, we’d recommend leaving at least 40GB (40,960MB) for the second partition. Subtract the size of second partition you want from the figure in the box, and enter this. Then click Apply. Select Disk 0 Unallocated Space, click New and then Apply. You’ll get a warning that Windows may create extra partitions, but click OK. You’ll now have two partitions: the one you created, and a 100MB System Reserved partition. Click Disk 0 Unallocated Space, New, and then Apply. You now have all the partitions you need.

7

35

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

INSTALL WINDOWS FILES Windows will automatically copy system files and install the necessary drivers to get your PC working on the first partition you created.

8

SET UP USERNAME AND PASSWORD After the installation files have finished copying, you’ll be prompted to type in a username for yourself (you can create more for other users later) and a name for your computer. Enter this and click Next. On the next screen, you’re asked to enter a password. This is optional, but if you want to protect your files and ensure that only authorised users can access your PC, it’s vital. Finally, enter a hint that will remind you of your password in case you forget it and click Next.

9

ENTER PRODUCT KEY You will now be prompted to type in your product key, which is inside the box in which your copy of Windows came. Leave the ‘Automatically activate Windows when I’m online’ and click Next.

10

TURN ON WINDOWS UPDATES Windows now asks whether you want to turn on Windows Updates automatically. The best option is to select ‘Use recommended settings’. Next, set the date and time of your computer. If you chose

11

ßØ

your location as UK in the Windows installation routine, the time will be set to GMT by default. Click Next. If Windows picked up your network adaptor correctly and found that your PC was connected to a network, you’ll be asked to choose the type of network – for most people, this will be Home network. Windows will then start. INSTALL MOTHERBOARD DRIVERS Although Windows is now working, you still need to install all the relevant drivers to make sure that everything will run smoothly. The trick here is to install any drivers that are for Windows 7; only install Windows Vista drivers if a component isn’t working, such as your network adaptor. Start with your motherboard’s drivers. If you downloaded these earlier, insert the USB key or disc to which you saved them. If you couldn’t do this, insert the driver disc that came with your motherboard and follow the onscreen instructions. You’ll need to download the updated drivers later, and then follow these instructions. For each driver you downloaded, run the associated file. It’s best to start with the chipset driver, but the order afterwards doesn’t matter. If Windows displays any warning messages, just click OK. Be careful, as some files you download are just archive files that extract the actual driver

12

9

10

11

12

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

files on to your hard disk. If this is the case, go to the folder to which the files were extracted and run the Setup program. You’ll probably need to restart your PC after each driver installation.

should read the manual that came with your peripheral. If you’ve installed a wireless adaptor, make sure you connect it to your wireless network and follow the provided instructions.

INSTALL GRAPHICS CARD DRIVERS Windows will install its own graphics drivers for any onboard or dedicated cards you have. These are fine for running Windows, but you won’t be able to play games properly. For this, you’ll need to install the graphics drivers. Both ATI and Nvidia provide a single driver package. Simply run the file you downloaded. If you couldn’t download the drivers earlier, you should do it now. (Follow Step 14 if you need to install a wireless adaptor to get online and then come back to this step.) Restart your computer after the graphics drivers have been installed. Right-click on the desktop, select Screen Resolution and adjust the resolution to match your monitor’s native resolution.

RUN WINDOWS UPDATE Click on the Start menu, type Windows Update and click the entry that appears. Click the Check for Updates button, and Windows will connect to Microsoft’s update server and detect which updates you need. Click on View available updates and look at the list. Some will have been preselected as important updates, but there are also some optional ones, including even newer drivers for your hardware. Select what you’d like to update, then click install. When they’ve finished downloading and installing and your PC has restarted, you’ll have a working copy of Windows 7 that’s up to date.

13

INSTALL OTHER PERIPHERALS You can now install your other peripherals. Install the relevant driver files for each device that’s plugged into your motherboard. For USB devices, install the driver file first and, when prompted, connect the device to a USB port. If you’re in any doubt, you

14

15

CREATE A SYSTEM REPAIR DISC Windows 7 lets you create a disc to repair problems. It’s worth doing this now while you’ve got a working PC. Click on the Start menu and type repair, and click on Create a System Repair Disc. Put a blank CD or DVD into your optical drive and click Create disc process. This will take a few minutes. When it’s done, take the disc out, label it clearly and put it somewhere safe.

16

13

14

15

16

Tip You can also use the installation DVD as a repair disc. Just boot from it and select Repair as the first option.

37

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? The processor is the ‘brains’ of your computer. The faster the processor is, the quicker your PC will run. It’s also worth considering a dual-core processor. This in effect gives you two processors on one chip, doubling your PC’s processing power.

WHAT CAN YOU UPGRADE? SOCKET 478 You’ll be unable to upgrade this to any current model and will need to buy a new motherboard.

LGA775 SOCKET TYPE You should be able to fit a dual- or quad-core processor, but check your motherboard manufacturer’s website for full details.

Upgrading your Intel processor INTEL RECENTLY RELEASED its Core i7 and Core i5 range of processors. While this is a great technological leap forward, it makes it trickier to work out which components you can and can’t use to upgrade your computer. Fortunately, we’re here to help. More than any other component in your PC, the processor determines how quickly your computer will run. Replacing the processor with a faster model can give your PC a new lease of life, enabling you to run demanding video-editing applications and games. However, upgrading your processor is feasible only if you can install a dual- or quad-core chip. This is like having two or four processors in one chip, doubling or quadrupling the performance of your computer when you perform multiple tasks or run software written to take advantage of multiple cores. For the purposes of this article, we’ll assume that you’re going to install a new processor in your motherboard, but our advice will help you work out if your motherboard is too old to take a modern processor. If that is the case, it’s worth considering buying a new motherboard and a processor. This adds to the cost, but it’s worth it for the speed improvement.

Most people will be able to fit a faster processor in their motherboard, but working out which processors you can fit demands some careful research. The main limiting factor is the processor socket that your motherboard uses, as this determines the types of processor that you can fit.

SOCKET TO ME With Intel processors, upgrading should be fairly straightforward. There are three types of socket currently in use. LGA1366 and LGA1156 are the newest socket types. LGA1366 is for Core i7 processors only, while LGA1156 is for Core i3, Core i5 and some Core i7 models (check the processor’s specifications carefully to make sure you get the right type); LGA775 supports the bulk of Intel’s processors, including the Core 2 and Pentium Dual Core ranges. Intel-based computers may also use the older Socket 478, but this has been discontinued. Socket type is just one consideration when choosing a processor. The key factor for Intel LGA775 processors is the external bus speed supported by your motherboard. This is because of the way the processor’s speed is calculated. For these Intel chips, the speed of the processor is the

THERMAL PASTE Your heatsink may have a square of conductive material on its underside. If not, use thermal paste to ensure good contact between the processor and the heatsink.

LGA1366 SOCKET TYPE You already have one of the fastest processors, so it’s not worth upgrading. FAN This transfers the heat from your heatsink and disperses it. Without it, the processor would eventually overheat.

HEATSINK If you buy an official ‘boxed’ processor, you’ll get a certified heatsink that’s guaranteed to cool your chip properly.

ßs

PROCESSOR You will only be able to fit a processor that uses the same socket standard as your motherboard. This new Intel processor uses LGA775.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades bus speed multiplied by the processor’s multiplier. For example, the Core 2 Duo E8500 has a 333MHz bus speed and a 9.5X multiplier, giving it a speed of 3.16GHz. The external bus speed is quad-pumped to produce the frontside bus (FSB) speed, which is the bus the processor uses to communicate with the memory and other peripherals. This speed is often quoted in processor specifications. In our example, the E8500 has a 1,333MHz FSB. To support a specific processor, your motherboard needs to support the correct external bus speed. The Pentium Dual Core, Core 2 Duo and Core 2 Quad series of processors come in versions with 200MHz (800MHz FSB), 266MHz (1,066MHz FSB), 333MHz (1,333MHz) and 400MHz (1,600MHz) external bus speeds. However, few processors require the fastest bus speed. To ensure support, check your motherboard firm’s website; you may need to apply a BIOS update first. Intel’s Core i7 processors all have four cores and a 133MHz external bus speed; Core i3 and Core i5 processors can have two or four cores with a 133MHz external bus speed. Instead of an FSB, these processors have integrated memory controllers and talk directly to components and system RAM. If your motherboard supports Core i3, i5 and i7 processors, it will support all models of these chips, although you may have to perform a BIOS update.

BEST BUYS Your choice of processor is based on the external bus speed your motherboard supports. If your motherboard supports only 800MHz FSB processors, the Pentium Dual Core E5400 is a great choice for around £58 including VAT. If your motherboard supports a maximum FSB speed of 1,066MHz, then the Core 2 Duo E7500 is the best choice at around £90 including VAT, but you can go quad-core with a Core 2 Quad Q6600 for around £146 including VAT. For 1,333MHz FSB speeds or faster then the Core 2 Duo E8500, which costs around £155 including VAT, is ideal. However, you can get incredible performance from the Core 2 Quad Q8300 for around £105 including VAT. If you have a Core i3, i5 or i7 system, there’s no point in upgrading as you already have one of the fastest processors available. If you want to upgrade to Core i3, i5 or i7, you’ll need a new motherboard. You’ll also need to buy DDR3 memory, rather than reuse your old DDR2 memory, as these processors only support this standard. If you need a new motherboard, we recommend you buy one that’s compatible with LGA1156 Core i3, i5 and i7 processors, as you’ll get the best performance and future upgrade potential. The quad-core Core i5-750 is the best choice at around £150 including VAT. For the ultimate performance, the Core i7-860 costs around £217 including VAT. Both of these chips use the LGA1156 socket.

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

✔

SOCKET

✔

COOLER

✔

SUPPORT

Check that your motherboard’s socket type matches that of the processor you want. The socket type is listed in your motherboard’s manual. You can also try the free CPU-Z utility (available from www.cpuid.com), checking the Package line in the main window.

A faster processor may generate more heat than your old one, and your existing cooler may not be able to cope with a new processor. If you’re in doubt, you should buy a boxed processor with a certified heatsink and fan.

The only way you can be sure of processor support is to search your motherboard manufacturer’s website for supported models. You may need to download and apply a BIOS update with your old processor in place. 39

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? The processor is the ‘brains’ of your computer. The faster the processor is, the quicker your PC will run. It’s also worth looking at choosing a dual-core chip. This in effect gives you two processors on one chip, doubling your PC’s processing power.

WHAT CAN YOU UPGRADE?

Upgrading your AMD processor THE PROCESSOR IS the brains of your computer and so affects the performance of your PC more than anything else. With a new processor installed, your PC will be able to run applications that simply wouldn’t run before, such as demanding videoediting software and the latest games. AMD’s latest range of chips gives you the choice of tri- and quad-core processors. These are like having three or four processors installed in your computer. For applications written to take advantage of multiple cores, this means lightningfast performance; in normal use, it means that Windows will be more responsive and that you can run more applications at once, with each core taking its fair share of the load. In this article, we’ll assume that you’ll be using your existing motherboard, and will explain how you can work out which model of processor you can fit. We’ll also tell you if your motherboard is too old to support the newer processors. In this case, you’ll need to upgrade your motherboard, too (see page 46 for full instructions on how to do this). This adds to the cost, but the overall improvement in performance will make it worthwhile.

TYPE CASTING While Intel frequently upgrades its processor socket and motherboard requirements for its new processors, AMD has generally done a better job of ensuring that new processors will work in older motherboards. Therefore, it’s more likely that you’ll be able to upgrade an AMD processor using your existing motherboard. AMD currently has three commonly used socket types: AM2, AM2+ and AM3. AM2 and AM2+ processors will fit in either type of motherboard. AM3 is the newest socket type, and processors designed for it have a new integrated memory controller that supports DDR3 memory. AM3 processors will fit in AM2 and AM2+ motherboards (where compatibility is noted on the manufacturer’s website and with any necessary BIOS updates), but AM2 and AM2+ processors won’t fit in AM3 motherboards. If you have an AM3 motherboard, you’ll already have one of AMD’s fastest processors, so upgrading is not worthwhile. AMD’s older socket types include Socket 939 or Socket 754. Unfortunately, there are few choices for these now, and you won’t find it

SOCKET 754 OR SOCKET 939 You’ll be unable to upgrade this to any current model and will need to buy a new motherboard.

SOCKET AM2/AM2+ You should be able to fit a Phenom or Phenom II processor, but check your motherboard manufacturer’s website for full details.

THERMAL PASTE Your heatsink may have a square of conductive material on its underside. If not, use thermal paste to ensure good contact between the processor and pr the heatsink. ink.

SOCKET AM3 You already have one of the fastest processors, so it’s not worth upgrading. FAN This transfers the heat from your heatsink and disperses it. Without it, the processor would eventually overheat.

PROCESSOR You will only be able to fit a processor that uses the same socket standard as your motherboard. This new Intel processor uses LGA775.

40

HEATSINK If you buy an official ‘boxed’ processor, you’ll get a certified heatsink that’s guaranteed to cool your chip properly.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades cost-effective to upgrade your existing system without changing your motherboard. The reason for the higher level of compatibility between socket types is that AMD’s processors – unlike most of Intel’s chips – don’t have a frontside bus (FSB) that dictates their speed. AMD’s recent processors have a 200MHz external bus speed and a multiplier to determine their speed. For example, the Phenom X4 9950 has a 200MHz bus speed and a multiplier of 13X, giving a speed of 2,600MHz (200MHz multiplied by 13). The main difference between AMD’s processors is the version of HyperTransport that they support. HyperTransport is the bus that directly connects system components – such as USB ports, memory, expansion cards and so on – to the processor. Socket AM2 motherboards support HyperTransport 2.0 running at a maximum speed of 1.4GHz, but Phenom and Phenom II processors support HyperTransport 3.0 with a maximum speed of 2.6GHz. In order to get the best performance from a Phenom or Phenom II processor, you should install them in an AM2+ or AM3 motherboard, depending on their type. Finally, while AM2 motherboards can support Phenom processors, it’s best to check with your motherboard manufacturer to make sure. In some cases, you may need to download and apply a BIOS upgrade with your existing processor in place (see page 20 for full instructions on how to do this).

WISE BUYS If you have an AM2 or AM2+ motherboard, there’s plenty of choice. We recommend avoiding the old Athlon X2 processors. Although they’re not bad processors in their own right, the newer Phenom models are around the same price, but considerably faster. In any case, the Athlon X2 brand is being phased out, so these processors are increasingly hard to find. If you’re on a tight budget, you should opt for the Athlon II X2 240, which is around £41 including VAT. Its two cores ensure that it’s quick enough to deal with any task you throw at it. If you want the best performance, then the Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition, which costs around £125 including VAT, is an excellent choice. This quad-core processor is extremely fast and you can overclock it easily by adjusting its multiplier. The latest Phenom II range of processors has a smaller fabrication process than previous models, which means they’re more power-efficient. They will also work in both AM2+ and AM3 motherboards for the best compatibility. If you’re looking to upgrade to AM3, you’ll need to buy a new motherboard. Depending on the model you choose, you may also have to buy expensive DDR3 memory. If this still appeals to you, the quick Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition processor is still the best choice.

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

✔

SOCKET

✔

COOLER

✔

SUPPORT

Check that your motherboard’s socket type matches that of the processor you want. The socket type is listed in the manual for your motherboard. You can also try the free CPU-Z utility (available from www.cpuid.com), checking the Package line in the main window.

A faster processor may well generate more heat than your old one, and your existing cooler may not be able to cope with a new processor. If you’re in any doubt, you should buy a boxed processor with a certified heatsink and fan.

The only way to be sure that your motherboard supports your choice of processor is to visit your motherboard manufacturer’s website. You may need to download and apply a BIOS update with your old processor in place. 41

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Fit a new Intel processor REMOVE THE OLD COOLER First, turn the feet on the cooler in the direction of the arrow, then pull them up sharply and remove the cooler. Unplug its power cable from the motherboard. To access the existing processor, unclip the handle that runs down the side of the socket and lift it up. Lift the cage out of the way to expose the socket. Grip the processor around its edges and lift it slowly up and out of the way.

1

INSERT THE NEW PROCESSOR Your new processor has two cut-out notches in its sides, which line up with the ridges in the socket. This prevents the processor being put in the wrong way round. You’ll also notice an arrow on the processor. This should line up with the corner of the socket that has a diagonal edge. Line the processor up, as described above, and sit it gently in place. If it doesn’t sit properly, it’s the wrong way round. Once you’re happy that the processor is in place, close the drive cage and pull the retaining handle down. This should take a bit of force, but if there’s too much resistance, check that the processor is seated properly.

2

Tip Check Windows Device Manager’s processor section to make sure your new chip has been recognised correctly. If the wrong model is showing, select each instance and, one at a time, press delete. Reboot when done and your PC will have the correct settings.

42

ADD THERMAL PASTE Thermal paste fills in micro-cracks in the surface of the processor and the surface of the cooler, ensuring that there’s efficient heat transfer between the two. You may find that your fan comes pre-coated with thermal paste, in which case you can skip to Step 4. If your fan isn’t pre-coated, you’ll have to apply your own. Take the tube of thermal paste and squeeze a blob into the middle of the processor. Use a bit of card to spread the paste, so the surface of the processor is coated with a thin layer.

3

ATTACH THE NEW COOLER Take the fan you removed (or the new one, if your processor came with one) and turn its feet away from the direction of the arrows. Line up the cooler so that the four feet touch the holes in the motherboard. Starting at diagonally opposite sides, push the four feet into place. You’ll need to use some force, but the feet should click into position. When done, check the cooler is seated properly and that it isn’t wobbly. If it is, check that the feet are in position properly. Plug its power connector into the motherboard header marked CPU.

4

1

2

3

4

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

1

2

3

4

HOW TO...

Fit a new AMD processor BEFORE YOU BEGIN, remember that AMD processors have delicate pins on the underside. Make sure that you always remove and insert your processor in a straight line so you don’t bend the pins and damage the processor. REMOVE THE ORIGINAL FAN Push down the handle on the processor cooler and move it around the retaining clip. The handle will then lift up, allowing you to slip the retaining mount off the plastic clips. Pick the cooler up gently and tilt it towards the remaining clip holding it in place. If it feels stuck, slide it from side to side until it loosens. Once you’ve lifted it, unplug its power connector. Unclip the handle on the processor socket, and lift it up. Grab the processor by its sides and lift it vertically out of the way.

1

PUT THE PROCESSOR IN The new processor can fit only one way into the socket. To line it up, make sure the arrow on top of the processor is aligned with the arrow on the processor socket. Gently push the processor into place. You should feel it click into position when it’s all the way in. If you have to use too much force, stop and check that the processor is aligned correctly. Once it is all the way in, check around the processor to make sure it’s sitting flush against the

2

plastic socket. If it’s not, push down gently on the sections that aren’t flush. Push the lever down and clip it back into place to secure the processor. ADD THERMAL PASTE Thermal paste fills in micro-cracks in the surface of the processor and the surface of the cooler, ensuring that there’s efficient heat transfer between the two. Sometimes this is supplied with a new processor. If not, a tube should cost £5. Take the tube and squeeze a blob into the middle of the processor. Use a bit of card to spread the paste so that the surface of the processor is coated with a thin layer.

3

CONNECT THE FAN Around the processor socket is a plastic cooler mount with two nodules sticking out. These are designed to hold your cooler’s clips. Take your cooler and open its handle. Fit the metal clip without the handle on it over one nodule and push it snugly against the mount. Place the cooler flat on top of the surface of the processor. Push the cooler’s remaining metal clip over the second nodule and close the handle. You’ll have to apply a little bit of force in order to get the handle all the way down. Plug the fan’s power connector back into the CPU socket on the motherboard.

4

43

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

Testing your processor

µ

The most complicated part of your computer, the processor needs to be kept cool and stable

THE PROCESSOR IS just about the most important part of your PC. Without it, you’d just have a collection of components that wouldn’t be able to do anything. Processors are constantly being updated and are also becoming more complicated. These days, it’s the norm for a single chip to house at least two processors (called cores in this context), but four cores are rapidly becoming more affordable. While this extra complexity means that computers today can storm through tough tasks such as video encoding quicker than ever, the result is that there’s more that can go wrong. A processor crashing will immediately freeze your computer, losing any unsaved work in the process. If the hard disk was being accessed at the time with an important Windows system file open, a processor crash can even mean that you need to reinstall Windows. Here we’ll show you how to test your computer for stability with the free Hot CPU Tester (www.7byte.com). Before you start testing you should make sure that your processor has been correctly detected by Windows. Start Device Manager from the Control Panel and expand the

processors section. If the incorrect processor model is listed you need to select each instance, one at a time, and press delete. Once you’ve done that, restart your computer and Windows should correctly detect your processor. Check Device Manager again following the advice above if you still have any incorrect entries for your processor.

PROBLEM SOLVING The free version of Hot CPU Tester doesn’t run the full suite of diagnostics, as the Professional version does. However, there’s enough there to make sure that your processor is running properly. Using its Burn-in test, you can find out how effective your processor’s cooling is. The most common reason for a processor to fail any of the diagnostic tests is heat. Processors are sensitive to heat, and can start causing errors when they get too hot. Intel’s processors try to deal with the problem by slowing themselves down, which makes your computer very sluggish until the core temperature has dropped. At times processors shut themselves down completely, meaning that you’ll need to restart your computer.

COOL OFF The essential thing with processors is to make sure that there’s plenty of cooling. You can monitor your processor’s temperature by using the free SpeedFan utility (www.almico.com/speedfan.php). Follow our step-by-step advice opposite to work out how hot your processor is. Generally speaking, AMD processors should be below 40 degrees and Intel processors should be below 55 degrees. If your processor is running hotter, you could have a problem. Take your PC apart and make sure that its fan is working and that there’s decent contact between the processor and the cooler. You may need to reapply thermal paste. If heat doesn’t seem to be the problem and your processor is still failing diagnostics checks, make sure you’re running it at the intended speed in the BIOS. Running the processor faster than it is meant to be run can cause errors. Finally, try taking the processor out of its socket. In Intel LGA-775 sockets, look for any bent pins. If you see any, push them gently back into place with a jeweller’s screwdriver. For AM2 and AM2+ processors, make sure that you haven’t bent any pins on the processor. Inserting a credit card gently between the rows should let you bend them back into shape. 44

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO…

Test your processor SET THE TEST DURATION Install Hot CPU Tester (www.7byte.com) and run it when the installation has finished. Click OK to skip the message about upgrading to the new version. Before you start, click on the Options tab and select the Test Modules item. You’ll see that the test duration is set to six hours. While this will give your PC a thorough workout, it’s probably too much for most people. We’d recommend setting it to an hour or slightly under.

1

BURN IN THE PROCESSOR Click the Burn-in icon. This test will run your processor at 100 per cent load, and is useful for checking how temperature affects it. However, in the free version of Hot CPU Tester, which tests only a single core, you can only run a single thread. A workaround is to run Hot CPU Tester as many times as you have cores by double-clicking the program icon.

3

RUN THE TEST Click on the Diagnostic button and click Run Test. Hot CPU Tester will then give your processor a thorough workout. The application will run lots of mathematically complex tasks in order to stretch your processor to its limit. It will use every core in your PC, so you’ll be unable to use your computer for anything else during this time. Once the program has finished the test, you’ll receive a report telling you if your processor failed any of the tests. If it didn’t, you know that it’s working properly.

MEASURE THE TEMPERATURE Before you start the burn-in test, run SpeedFan (www. almico.com/speedfan.php) in order to measure the temperature. Keep it somewhere onscreen where it will be visible. Start the burn-in test on every open copy of Hot CPU Tester by clicking the Run CPU Burn-in button. SpeedFan may stop responding, as your processor is too busy to deal with it. Don’t worry; just leave the test running for around 10 minutes and then stop all the burn-in tests. When they’ve stopped, look at the temperature of the processor in SpeedFan. If it’s exceeded the limits you set for it, you may have overheating problems.

1

2

3

4

2

4

Tip If you have fan speed switches inside your case, try using them to increase fan speed to cool down a hot processor.

45

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? Your motherboard dictates which components you can and can’t install. If you want to run the latest hardware, you’ll need to make sure that you have a motherboard that supports it.

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT PC Changing your motherboard will be fairly straightforward, although you may need a new power supply.

2003-2006 PC You should be able to change your motherboard, but you’ll almost certainly need a new power supply. New memory and graphics card are also upgrades that you’ll probably have to make.

PRE-2003 PC While a new motherboard will physically fit in your case, you’ll need a new power supply, graphics card (if you’re not going for onboard graphics) and memory. You’ll also need to upgrade to Windows 7, Vista or XP, which may require a larger hard disk. Buying a new PC or building one from scratch is usually a more sensible option.

46

Upgrading your motherboard IF YOU’RE GOING to upgrade your motherboard, it makes sense to upgrade the processor, too. If you just keep your existing chip, you’ll find that it limits any performance increase as well as your choice of motherboard. Before you do anything, you need to choose the type of processor you want to install, and then you can look for the motherboard that supports it. Our articles on upgrading Intel and AMD processors on pages 42 and 43 should help you decide. Once you’ve chosen your processor, you can think about the motherboard. For Intel Core 2 processors, you’ll need a motherboard with an LGA775 socket. We recommend you get a motherboard that supports at least a 1,333MHz frontside bus (FSB) for the maximum flexibility and upgrade potential, but you should look for a board with a 1,600MHz FSB to fit the very fastest models. Motherboards with Intel’s P43 or P45 chipsets are a good choice; there are also ‘G’ variants that have onboard graphics. If you’re buying an Intel Core i7 processor, you’ll need a motherboard with an LGA1366 socket; these motherboards will support the majority of Core i7 processors. Currently, motherboards that use Intel’s X58 chipset are the best choice. For Core i5 or the lower-end Core i7 processors, you’ll need a motherboard with an LGA1156 socket. Currently, motherboards with an Intel H55 chipset are the best choice, as these support Intel processors with built-in graphics chips. For AMD processors, there’s a choice between Socket AM2+ and Socket AM3 motherboards. Socket AM3 is currently the best choice, as there’s a wider range of processors from which to choose and, therefore, better compatibility. You should choose a motherboard that uses AMD’s 890 chipset for the best performance and processor compatibility. You can get variants with onboard graphics, too. It’s best to check a motherboard manufacturer’s website for compatibility information. Be wary of any motherboards that require a BIOS update to support your chosen processor; a BIOS update can be applied only with the processor in the motherboard, so if you don’t have a processor that works before the BIOS update, you’ll be unable to upgrade the motherboard. For example, to apply a BIOS update to a Socket AM2+ motherboard to let it work with the latest Phenom II processors, you’ll probably need a Socket AM2 Athlon processor installed first.

CARD TRICKS Choosing a motherboard that supports your type of processor is just one step in making a decision: you also need to make sure it has all the features you’ll need. You should look for onboard graphics if you want to save money by not having to buy a dedicated graphics card. While these are incapable of playing 3D games, you can get onboard graphics chips that can play Blu-ray movies, which is brilliant if you’re building a media centre PC. A motherboard with an Intel chipset and onboard graphics is fine for basic office tasks, but look for a DVI port for the maximum flexibility. The latest Intel Core i3, i5 and i7 processors have built-in graphics that can play Blu-ray films. If you’re buying an AMD-compatible motherboard, look for a board with AMD’s 890 chipset and onboard ATI Radeon 3xxx graphics. These will be capable of playing Blu-ray movies. If you’re building a media centre computer, it’s best to get a motherboard with an HDMI output, which makes it easy to connect your PC to your TV, although you can convert DVI to HDMI. To watch Blu-ray movies using a DVI output, you’ll need an HDCP-compliant motherboard. If you’re using a monitor with a VGA input, you’ll need onboard graphics with a DVI or VGA output; HDMI outputs can’t be converted to analogue. Finally, if you want to fit a dedicated graphics card, you’ll need a motherboard that has a PCI Express x16 slot; if your existing motherboard uses an AGP graphics card, you’ll be unable to reuse this card. If you want to run two or more graphics cards, using Nvidia’s SLI or ATI’s CrossFire technology, then you’ll need to get a motherboard with two or more PCI Express x16 slots. With Intel processors, you’ll need a motherboard with an Intel P43, P45 or X58 chipset for CrossFire. For Nvidia’s SLI technology, you’ll need a motherboard with an Nforce 9xx chipset, which currently supports only Core 2 processors. With AMD processors, pick a motherboard with a 890 chipset for CrossFire support; for SLI support, you’ll need a motherboard with an Nvidia 7XX or 9XX chipset. However, you don’t get a huge performance boost by using two graphics cards, so we recommend that you stick with a single card.

EXPANSION OPTIONS You must make sure that a motherboard has enough expansion slots and ports for all the

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

FORM FACTOR This microATX motherboard has four expansion slots; ATX boards have more.

EXPANSION SLOTS These are used for internal peripherals such as TV tuners and graphics cards.

SECONDARY CONNECTOR The power supply’s second connector plugs in here.

PROCESSOR SOCKET The processor plugs in here.

USB/FIREWIRE HEADERS Extra USB or FireWire ports plug into these headers.

MEMORY SLOTS For dual-channel mode, plug memory into matching colour slots.

SATA PORTS These are for hard disks, newer DVD writers and Blu-ray drives.

FRONT-PANEL CONNECTORS The power switch, reset switch and status light connect here.

IDE PORT This is for attaching a DVD writer or an old hard disk.

ATX CONNECTOR The power supply’s ATX connector plugs in here.

47

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

peripherals and storage that you want to fit. If you have older expansion cards, you’ll need a motherboard with enough PCI slots; if you’re looking to install new peripherals such as a wireless card, you’ll need PCI Express expansion slots. These come in different speed ratings: x1, x4, x8 (which is rare) and x16 (which is used primarily for graphics). Just remember that an expansion card rated for one slot can be used in a higher-rated slot; for example, a PCI Express x1 expansion card can be used in a x4, x8 or x16 slot. You should also check that your new motherboard has enough ports for your existing storage. SATA is the most common type of port, and even modern optical drives use it. Typically,

modern motherboards have only one PATA port. If you’ve got more than two PATA devices, you can buy PATA-to-SATA adaptors (which cost around £5 each) and use the SATA ports instead. You also need to make sure that a motherboard has enough USB and FireWire ports. If there aren’t many, look for USB and FireWire headers, so you can plug in extra ports. Failing that, USB hubs are a cheap way to expand the number of USB ports you have. Sadly, there’s no equivalent for FireWire.

SIZE MATTERS The final choice you have to make concerns size. Modern motherboards come in two common sizes: ATX and microATX. The one you choose will

Trouble ahead Solving new motherboard problems Fitting a new motherboard is like building a new computer from scratch, and comes with the same problems. As you’ve stripped down your computer completely, the problem could be with any of your components. You’ll need to try one fix at a time, so you can identify what’s causing the problem. If your computer won’t turn on or it makes a beeping sound, you should check that all the power connectors are plugged into the motherboard and graphics card. Give them a firm push to make sure that they’re all connected. Then you need to make sure that all the internal connectors are connected properly. Finally, check that all the cables are plugged into the back of computer. If you’re still not having any luck, you’ll need to try reseating all your hardware, including the processor, graphics card and memory. If you still can’t turn on your computer then you should try resetting your

48

motherboard’s BIOS, wiping its current settings. Your motherboard’s manual will tell you how to do this. Typically, there’s a jumper on the motherboard marked CMOS reset. You need to move the jumper on to the two exposed pins and press the power button, then move the jumper back to its original position. Then turn on your computer again. If it still beeps, you can diagnose the problem by looking up what the audible codes mean at www.pchell.com/hardware/ beepcodes.shtml. Try reseating the problem component, or replacing it with another. Memory can be the cause of many problems, so try taking out all but one module and turning on your PC. If that doesn’t work, replace that memory module with another. For intermittent crashes, make sure that the processor cooler is firmly attached, as heat can wreak havoc with a computer.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

and they measure up to 170x170mm. Unless you specifically know that you’re going to need a mini-ITX motherboard, a microATX or ATX motherboard is a better choice.

COMPATIBILITY Our compatibility checklist on page 50 explains exactly what you’ll need to look out for when you’re choosing your motherboard. As well as upgrading your processor, you may also need to buy a new graphics card, memory and power supply. This can make upgrading expensive. However, the overall increase in performance will make it worthwhile, and it will still be cheaper than buying a new computer.

µ

ultimately depend on the size of motherboard that your case supports; you’ll need to check the case’s manual for details. ATX motherboards are the largest and they have the highest number of expansion ports. They measure up to 305x244mm and will fit only in cases designed for them. MicroATX motherboards are smaller and they typically have fewer expansion options than ATX boards. They measure up to 244x244mm, but they will fit in cases designed for microATX and ATX motherboards. Finally, mini-ITX motherboards are also available, although they are quite rare. These are designed to fit in tiny cases, though they’ll also fit in cases designed for microATX and ATX motherboards,

If your computer won’t turn on or it makes a beeping noise, make sure that all the power connectors are firmly plugged in

49

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST ✔

MOTHERBOARD SIZE

Check that your motherboard will fit your case. Most new motherboards are ATX (up to 305x244mm). A smaller case may be microATX (see www.formfactors.org/formfactor.asp). MicroATX motherboards fit in a standard ATX case, but not the other way. Mini-ITX is a specialist board designed for tiny cases.

✔

POWER SUPPLY

All new motherboards require a secondary 12v power connector. The manual will tell you if you need a four-pin or eight-pin connector. If it doesn’t, use an eight-pin connector. You’ll also need a 24-pin ATX connector. If your power supply doesn’t have the necessary connectors, you’ll need to buy a new one.

Look for the four-pin 12v connector

✔

GRAPHICS CARD

✔

STORAGE

If you have an AGP graphics card, you’ll have to buy a PCI Express x16 model. Most new cards require a six-pin PCI Express power connector. If your power supply doesn’t have one, you’ll need a Molex-to-PCI Express converter. The most powerful cards require a new eight-pin PCI Express connector.

If you want to use your old hard disks with your new board, make sure you have enough ports. You can run two PATA hard disks or optical drives from one PATA connector; SATA ports can run one device each. Modern boards often have one PATA connector, but you can buy PATA-to-SATA adaptors for about £5, so you can plug PATA devices into SATA ports.

}õ

✔

MEMORY

✔

WINDOWS

For Intel LGA775 motherboards, you should buy the memory closest to your processor’s FSB speed. For 800MHz FSB processors, PC2-6400 (800MHz) is the best choice; for faster FSB and AMD processors, PC2-8500 (1,066MHz) is better. Core i3, i5, i7 and AM3 processors require DDR3 memory.

You’ll need Windows XP, Vista or 7 to get the most from a motherboard upgrade. If you’re running an earlier version, you won’t find the drivers to make things work. Even with XP or Vista, you need the latest drivers. Download these from the manufacturer’s website and save them to a USB flash drive before installing Windows, so they’re ready when needed.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Upgrade your motherboard MAKE PREPARATIONS First of all, unplug your PC, then press the power switch to ensure that any remaining charge is drained from the computer. Lay your PC on its side and remove the side panel. Touch the unpainted part of a radiator or cold mains tap to ground yourself; you don’t want to deliver a static shock to the components. Use your screwdriver to undo the sides of your case and remove the side.

1

CLEAR YOUR CASE You can now get your case ready for your new motherboard. Disconnect everything from the motherboard except the processor and memory. Your case should be almost empty, apart from the old motherboard and the expansion cards. Remove anything that will get in the way of removing the board, including cards, drives, cables or even parts of the chassis. Note exactly where each item went and how it fitted (you can take a photo to help).

2

REMOVE THE OLD BOARD Unscrew any screws holding your motherboard in place. Take out your old motherboard and put it somewhere safe. It’s probably mounted on little posts attached to the metal of the case. These may not be in the right places for your new board, so will have to be moved. You may also need extra spacers, or new ones that allow more clearance between the case and board. Some new motherboards have large mounts for the processor’s heatsink and fan; these require ample space under the board. Most PC shops sell motherboard spacers.

3

FIT THE BLANKING PLATE At the back of the case, where the old motherboard’s ports were, there’s a metal plate. Tap this from the outside until it drops out into the case. Take the plate from your new motherboard’s box and, ridge side up, push it against your motherboard’s ports. Snap off any blanking plates covering any ports.

4

1

2

3

4

Tip Use an empty cup to hold any screws that you remove so that you don’t lose them.

51

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

From inside the case, line up the plate with the hole in the case, with the ridge pointing outwards. Remember to align it so it’s the same way up as when you placed it against your motherboard. Push it into place until it clicks into position. ATTACH THE RISERS Drop the motherboard into the case and push it loosely against the blanking pate at the rear. Note where the board’s screw holes are. Take the motherboard out and screw in spacers where the board’s screw holes were. You may need to move existing risers that were there for your old motherboard.

5

FIT THE MOTHERBOARD Put the motherboard back in the case. Line up its ports with the holes on the blanking plate and push it firmly towards the blanking plate until its screw holes line up with the spacers. Hold it in place, and screw it into position.

CONNECT THE FAN Spread some thermal grease over the surface of the processor using a piece of card. Intel coolers need to have their legs turned in the opposite direction to what the marked arrow shows. Line up each leg with a hole in the motherboard and press diagonally opposite legs down until they click into place. On AMD coolers, lift the handle. Place the mounting bracket opposite the handle on to a plastic lug, then line up the handle’s mounting bracket with the other lugs. Push down on the handle until it locks. Plug the fan’s power cable into the header on the motherboard marked CPU.

INSTALL THE PROCESSOR All processors have markings to tell you which way they fit into the socket. These usually include a gold

PLUG IN THE MEMORY To benefit from dual-channel memory, RAM should be installed in pairs in the correct slots. Check your

6

7

}ä

triangle in one corner, which you must line up with the corresponding triangle on the socket. Be careful not to fit the processor the wrong way. If you break or bend a connector, the processor will be ruined and you won’t get a new one under warranty. Read the motherboard manual’s instructions for your model of processor.

8

9

5

6

7

8

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

motherboard’s manual for more details; generally speaking, you should put memory into slots of the same colour. Open the clips on either side of a memory socket. Line up the notch in the memory with the ridge in the slot. Press firmly down on both ends until the clips click into place. Repeat for your remaining memory modules. PLUG IN THE CABLES Plug in all the internal cables you need. PATA cables generally plug in one way only, with the ridge in the cable’s connector fitting into the notch in the motherboard’s connector. If there isn’t a ridge on the cable’s connector, line up the red cable with the pin marked ‘1’ on the motherboard. SATA cables plug in just one way. Use your motherboard’s manual to locate the USB and FireWire headers, and the front-panel (power, reset and hard disk LED) connectors. Plug in the matching cables, remembering that the positive connection – usually marked on the connector or cable – on the LED plugs should plug into the positive pin on the motherboard. Connect the power cables to the motherboard,

10

remembering to connect the secondary 12V connector. Make sure that the power cables are connected properly by giving them a gentle tug: if they come out, they’re not connected properly. PLUG IN EXPANSION CARDS Remove the blanking plates from the case for the slots into which you want to plug expansion cards. Line the card’s connector up with the slot and push it firmly in. Screw the card into place, or attach your case’s proprietary retaining clip. Make sure that you remember to plug power into any cards that require it, such as the graphics card, for example. If you don’t, your computer may fail to start.

11

INSTALL WINDOWS Turn on your PC and put your Windows installation disc in your optical drive. You may need to set your BIOS so the PC knows to boot from this disc rather than your hard disk. Start the installation routine (see pages 22 and 26 for more information on XP and Vista, and page 32 for Windows 7). When your computer has finished this, use the drivers you downloaded earlier to get your hardware working.

12

9

10

11

12

Tip When screwing down the motherboard (Step 10), don’t tighten the first screw fully, or you may buckle the board as you tighten the next one. Instead, leave some slack on each screw and tighten them down incrementally.

53

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

Adding more memory FEW UPGRADES ARE as effective as adding RAM to your PC. When there’s not enough memory to go round, your computer uses the hard disk as a substitute – known as virtual memory – and performance takes a hit. Fortunately, adding more memory to any computer is a relatively cheap and straightforward job. Here we’ll show you how.

EASY MEMORY TYPES

WHY UPGRADE? All your applications and Windows need memory in order to run. The more memory you have, the smoother your PC will run, as it will spend less time using virtual memory on your PC’s hard disk.

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT Adding new memory will be incredibly easy and cheap.

Installing new memory simply entails opening the case and popping some new sticks in, but before you rush out and buy anything you need to check some things first. Most importantly, you need to find out the type, speed and quantity of memory you can install. We’ll explain each one in turn. First, dig out your motherboard’s manual as it will contain a lot of the information you’ll need. If you don’t have it, you can look up your motherboard online or use online memory configuration tools such as those at www.crucial. com/uk or www.kingston.com/uk.

DDR3 DIMM DDR3 memory is the successor to DDR2. It’s the fastest and most expensive memory and used by high-end computers.

First, you need to find out how much memory you can fit. This is limited by three factors: the number of slots, the maximum amount of RAM your motherboard supports and the type of operating system. The OS is the easiest place to start. If you’re running 32-bit Windows you can only install a maximum of 4GB of RAM, although it will use only around 3.5GB of it. There are no such limitations with 64-bit editions of Windows. To find out which operating system you’re running, right-click Computer (My Computer in XP) and choose Properties. The information screen will tell you if you have a 32-bit or 64-bit OS. A second limitation is based on how much memory your motherboard can take. This will be listed in its manual, and should tell you both the maximum amount of RAM you can install and the maximum module size you can fit in each slot. For example, if your motherboard has four memory slots, all of which can take 2GB modules, you’ll be able to fit a maximum of 8GB.

DDR2 DIMM DDR2 memory is the successor to DDR. It is currently the most popular type of memory and used by most systems.

2003-2006 You’ll find it easy and cheap to fit new memory to your PC.

PRE-2003 Memory will be available for your PC and it should be easy to fit.

NOTCH Different RAM standards are incompatible, so memory sticks have notches that allow you to insert them only in suitable motherboards.

}Ø

HEAT SPREADERS This high-end DDR2 memory has heat spreaders to aid cooling in fast PCs. They look good, but most RAM works fine without them.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades The third limitation – the number of slots in your motherboard – is further limited by how much RAM you have installed. If all your memory slots are already filled, you’ll need to replace some modules. We recommend replacing the smallest ones first.

MEMORY TYPE Next you need to work out the type and speed of memory you can install. The type will be DDR, DDR2 or DDR3. Again, this information will be printed in your motherboard’s manual. DDR RAM was popular on older computers made from around 2001 to 2004; DDR2 is currently popular on AMD systems with the AM2 or AM2+ processor socket and Intel LGA775 socket; and DDR3 is used on most AM3 systems – although not all, as it depends on the motherboard – and Intel systems with LGA1336 and LGA1566 processor sockets. You’ll also need to know the speed of memory you can install. Typically, for Intel and older AMD systems it’s not worth buying memory faster than the quoted front side bus (FSB) speed (see pages 38 and 40 for more information); however, the good news is that if you buy memory faster than you need, you can run it at slower speeds. For DDR-based systems you’ll usually need to fit 400MHz RAM (PC-3200), as this is the only type commonly available. For DDR2 systems you’ll need to fit 800MHz (PC2-6400) RAM on AMD AM2 systems and Intel LGA775 or older systems with an 800MHz FSB or slower; and 1,066MHz (PC2-8500) RAM in AMD AM2+ and some AM3 motherboards, and all Intel LGA775 systems with a FSB of 1,066MHz or higher. For DDR3 systems, you’ll need 1,333MHz RAM (PC3-1066) RAM, although you can fit faster 1,600MHz PC3-12800 if you’re happy changing some BIOS settings.

DUAL-CHANNEL MEMORY Finally, you need to match the memory sticks. Most modern systems support dual-channel memory, which means that if you install memory in pairs you’ll get faster performance. (Intel LGA1336 motherboards support triple-channel memory, which means you have to install memory in sets of three.) So for dual-channel memory, instead of buying one 4GB stick of RAM, you’d buy two 2GB sticks. For this reason you can usually buy memory in kits with two sticks in each. Each pair of modules must run at the same speed and be the same size, so you can’t buy one 2GB stick and a 1GB stick; but you could have two 1GB sticks and two 512MB sticks, for example. Check your motherboard’s manual first, though, to make sure there are no other limitations. Finally, if you plan to keep any of your existing RAM, the new memory must run at the same speed as the old modules. This means if the older type is no longer available you may have to buy faster RAM and run it at a slower speed.

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST ✔

HOW MUCH RAM DO I NEED?

Roughly speaking 2GB of RAM is fine for basic office use, 4GB is suitable for heavy users that like to run lots of applications at the same time and 8GB will be needed for intensive tasks such as editing HD video.

✔

MEMORY TYPE

✔

CURRENT MEMORY

Before you buy RAM for your PC, find out exactly which type it needs by checking the motherboard manual or looking at your existing modules. Alternatively, use the tools on memory manufacturers’ websites such as www.crucial. com/uk or www.kingston.com/uk. If you don’t know your motherboard model, you may need to open your PC’s case and look for its label.

Look inside your PC to see the memory slots. If you have none free, you’ll have to swap existing modules for higher-capacity ones. Don’t buy bigger modules than your motherboard can handle. Remember, 32-bit Windows can only handle 4GB; 64-bit Windows can handle a practically unlimited amount. 57

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Install memory PREPARE YOUR COMPUTER Disconnect your computer’s power and peripherals and open the case. Lie your PC down so that the motherboard is parallel with the surface you’re working on. Locate the memory sockets on your motherboard, which are usually near the processor. For easy access, you may need to remove any system components that are in the way, or cables that run across the top of the memory modules. If you’re replacing your existing memory, remove it from the motherboard by pressing down on the plastic retaining catches at each end of the memory slot. It’s best to release both ends at once.

1

INSTALL YOUR NEW MEMORY First you must decide which slots to use. On motherboards with dual-channel support, each channel’s slots are usually the same colour and should contain identical memory sticks for optimum performance. Other motherboards may have two, three or four slots. You should usually fill these from the lowest-numbered slot upwards, but your motherboard’s manual will tell you what to do. Once you know which slots you’re using, press down on the plastic catches at each end so that they pivot open. Carefully open the anti-static packaging of the first memory stick and find the notch or notches on its connecting edge. Be careful to handle it by the other three edges only and line it up with the memory slot, making sure the notches are in the right place. Insert the memory stick by pressing it down at both ends. The two catches should clip over the ends of the module as it moves down into the slot.

2

ADD OTHER MODULES Use the same method to add any other modules. Check the catches are properly engaged in each occupied memory slot and replace any components you removed before closing the PC’s case. When you first switch on your PC, look at the information displayed by the system BIOS and check that the amount of memory it shows matches the total you expect. If it doesn’t, check that the memory is seated properly.

3

Tip Never use excessive force when fitting RAM, as you could break your memory modules or motherboard.

}s

MEMORY SETTINGS Although your memory should be automatically detected by your computer, there are times where modules will be detected incorrectly and won’t run at the correct speed. Remember that your memory can only run as fast as the slowest module installed in your computer. So, if your computer has DDR2 800MHz

4

memory and you buy DDR2 1,066MHz memory, all memory must run at 800MHz. To further complicate things, DDR stands for double data rate, which effectively means that your memory internally doubles its clock speed. For example, 800MHz memory has an external clock speed of 400MHz. In some computer BIOSes this means your memory may appear to be running at half its speed, but most will display the full memory speed. When you’re ready, start your computer and enter the BIOS. SET MEMORY RATIO The memory settings are usually on the same page as the processor settings, but check your motherboard’s manual for the correct location. Your memory’s speed is defined by the processor’s external bus speed multiplied by something called the memory ratio. Change the Memory Ratio until your memory is set to the correct speed. For example, on a Core 2 Duo E8500 (333MHz), DDR2 800MHz memory should be set to a memory ratio of 1.2 (1.2 x 333 = 400MHz). Your BIOS should then display the correct full memory speed, so it will show 800MHz for DDR2 800MHz RAM, not the ‘true’ speed of 400MHz. Some BIOSes don’t have a memory ratio setting, but rather have a menu option that lets you select your memory’s full speed, such as 800MHz. Simply select the correct speed from the drop-down list.

5

CHECK THE VOLTAGE Depending on your memory, you may need to boost its voltage. This is especially true if you want to run some DDR3 memory modules at their full advertised speed. You’ll know if there’s a problem, as your computer will probably crash. The printed information that came with your memory, or the manufacturer’s website, will provide you with details on the voltage your memory requires. The setting for this is usually in the same BIOS menu as the memory speed, but check your motherboard’s manual for full details. If you can’t find this information and you’re having problems, the following typical values should help: DDR memory should be run at 2.5V or 2.6V, DDR2 at 2V and DDR3 at 1.6V. Don’t exceed these values by too much as you could seriously damage your computer.

6

SET TIMINGS Next you need to check the DRAM Timing Mode, which should be in the same BIOS menu as the memory speed settings. It

7

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

£

{

Ridges prevent you fitting the wrong kind of RAM

Ó

x

Î

Make sure memory is correctly detected

should be set automatically, and most motherboards read the information from the memory incorrectly. The configuration here is quite complex, so you can probably leave this section well alone. However, if you’d like to check the settings, here’s how you do it. The memory timings should be written on the modules, but you can also get them by starting Windows and installing CPU-Z (www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php). Run the software and click on the SPD tab. You can select the memory slot of your new memory to view its timings. Note the values in the column listed for the speed of your memory, such as CAS# Latency and so on. Back in your BIOS, the timings headings may not match those taken from CPU-Z; you may even have more headings. What’s important is that the BIOS has the timings in the same order as in CPU-Z, and that CAS Latency (CL) is clearly marked. Starting here, set each row to the value in the corresponding row that you noted down. When the memory is correctly configured you can save the settings and continue.

È

Ç

59

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

UPGRADE TIME

Upgrading your hard disk

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? No matter how old your PC, you can never have enough storage space. With more and more photos, videos and music cluttering up our PCs, this is an essential upgrade for most people.

CAN I UPGRADE?

NO MATTER WHAT you use your computer for, you’re sure to start running out of disk space at some point. The good news is that upgrading your computer with a new hard disk is both cheap and easy to do. Here, we’ll show you how to choose and fit a new hard disk to your computer. On these two pages we’ll cover how to fit your hard disk; on the following page we’ll show you how to copy your old disk to a new one, so that you can use the new disk to start Windows if you want better performance as well as more storage. This is also helpful if your existing hard disk has developed a problem and needs to be replaced.

CHECKING COMPATIBILITY The first thing you need to do is work out the type of hard disk you can install. There are two types of disk interface: Serial ATA (SATA) and the older IDE standard. Every PC made within the past five years

will have a SATA interface. These disks are the best choice if your computer supports them, as you’ll get the largest capacity and best-value drives. The predecessor to SATA hard disks was IDE, also known as Parallel ATA (PATA). These should be installed only if you can’t upgrade your computer with a SATA hard disk. IDE technology is now being phased out, so you’ll have fewer models from which to choose and will be lucky to get anything bigger than a 500GB hard disk. In order to use an IDE drive you’ll need to have an IDE port inside your computer. Note that each IDE connector can support up to two devices: one master and one slave. The final thing to note is that if you want a disk with a capacity greater than 137GB – and most hard disks these days are considerably larger than this – you’ll need a BIOS that supports it. All BIOSes after 2002 support all hard disks, but older

2007-PRESENT

DATA CONNECTOR Serial ATA hard disks have more compact data connectors than IDE drives.

Adding a new hard disk will be easy, as you’re bound to have spare SATA ports.

2003-2006 You’re likely to have spare SATA ports to add new disks, so it should be easy.

PRE-2003 You may not have SATA ports, but adding an IDE disk should be simple, and you can add a SATA controller. You’ll need to check your motherboard’s manual to see the maximum supported disk size.

POWER CONNECTOR SATA drives have smaller power

connectors than IDE drives, which use a standard connector that’s been around for years. Every power supply should have at least one free SATA connector, but you can buy an adaptor for use with older PSUs.

Øõ

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

computers won’t. Check your motherboard manufacturer’s website to see if there’s an update that fixes the problem, but chances are that you’ll also need to upgrade your motherboard.

SPARE PORTS You’ll need three things inside your case in order to upgrade: a spare SATA port on your motherboard, a SATA power connector and a spare 3½in drive bay. The drive bay can be internal or external, although an external bay is more normally used for a memory card reader or floppy disk drive. You can also fit a hard disk in a 5¼in optical drive bay, although you’ll need to buy a 5¼-to-3½in adaptor. These cost only a few pounds and are available from most online retailers. Similarly, if you don’t have a spare SATA power connector, you can buy a Molex-to-SATA adaptor for around £1. If you don’t have a spare SATA port on your motherboard, you’ll need to buy an expansion card with extra SATA ports. Sweex sells a two-port internal PCI-E x1 card for around £25; a PCI version of the same card costs around £18. The expansion card will need to be installed in your PC and your new hard disk connected to it. If you want to boot from your new hard disk, you’ll need to configure your computer’s BIOS so that it boots from an external expansion card (see the guide on the following pages).

CHOOSING A HARD DISK When choosing a hard disk, it’s tempting just to buy the biggest hard disk you can afford, but be careful as you may not be getting the best deal. The best way to compare hard disks is to work out the cost per gigabyte; currently, disks with 1TB or 1.5TB capacities are the best value and should cost around 6p per gigabyte; larger and smaller disks will cost more per gigabyte. All decent desktop drives have a spin speed of 7,200rpm. You can buy 10,000rpm drives, which have slightly better performance, but these are a lot more expensive so are currently not worth buying. Our recommended hard disk at the moment is the Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 1.5TB, which costs around £88 including VAT. If you want to copy your old hard disk to your new one, you’ll need to follow the step-by-step instruction on page 64.

✔

SATA PORTS

✔

SATA POWER

✔

SPARE DRIVE BAY

You’ll need a spare SATA port to install a SATA hard disk. Ports are numbered in order of priority, so you should connect your new hard disk to a higher-numbered port than the disk from which you boot. This may involve switching existing cables around.

For SATA hard disks you’ll need a SATA power connector, although you can use a Molex-to-SATA adaptor if you don’t have the necessary power connector.

To fit a hard disk, you’ll need a free 3½in drive bay, although you can use a 5¼in optical drive bay with a suitable adaptor. 61

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Install a hard disk FIT HARD DISK INTO BAY To fit a hard disk, you need a 3½in drive bay. Be careful not to use one of the external bays, which have a cutout on the front of the case, as these are designed for memory card readers and floppy disk drives. If your case has drive rails or screwless fittings, you’ll need to read the case’s manual for instructions on how to fit these drives. For other cases, slide the hard disk into a spare drive bay until the screw holes in the side of the drive line up with the holes in the drive bay. The disk should then be secured with four screws: two either side of the case. Suitable screws should have been provided with the hard disk or case. Screw these in tightly to prevent the drive wobbling.

1

PLUG IN SATA POWER In the picture on page 60, you can see the SATA power connector on the hard disk. Locate the correct connector from your power supply and plug it into the back of your hard disk. It goes in only one way and clicks when it’s connected. Be extremely careful when plugging it in, as downwards pressure can break the clip

2

Øä

surrounding the power connector. If you do this, the power plug won’t stay in place. PLUG IN SATA DATA CABLE Unlike IDE, SATA uses a simple and thin connector to carry data. Your motherboard will ship with several SATA cables, so take one of these from the box. Plug it gently into the rear of the hard disk. It will plug in only one way and will click when it’s properly connected. Be careful when you plug it in, as downwards pressure can break the connector and prevent the SATA cable plugging in.

3

PLUG SATA DATA CABLE INTO MOTHERBOARD Next, you need to find a spare SATA port on your motherboard. These are usually located at the bottom-right of the board and are numbered. The lower the number, the higher up the boot chain your hard disk is. If you’re installing more than one hard disk, therefore, make sure the drive from which you’re going to boot is plugged into the lowest-numbered port. Check the motherboard’s manual to ensure that all the ports do the same thing; some boards have

4

1

2

3

4

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades ports reserved for RAID. Connecting the SATA cable is easy, as it will plug in only one way. It will click when the cable is connected properly. CHOOSE THE BOOT PRIORITY Once your hard disk is installed, turn your computer on and enter the BIOS. There should be a message onscreen telling you which key you need to press, but Delete, F2 and F12 are all common choices. Once you’re into the BIOS, you need to check which hard disk your computer is set to boot from. Depending on your BIOS, the view will be different. In some BIOSes each device in your computer will be listed in boot priority order (First Boot Device, Second Boot Device and so on). Ensure that the first hard disk listed is your old model. Alternatively, if your BIOS just lists the type of boot device, such as Hard Disk, you’ll need to go to the Hard Disk Boot Priority menu and make sure that your old hard disk is listed first. In both cases, selecting Bootable Add-in Cards (or similar) as one of the boot devices will tell your computer to look for an add-on SATA card and boot from the hard disk attached to it. Once your boot priority is configured properly, save your settings and exit the BIOS.

5

window to get a view of the hard disks that are installed in your computer. Your new disk will have a black bar and the word ‘Unallocated’ written on it. Right-click it and select New Simple Volume. Click Next and type in the size in megabytes that you’d like your new partition to be (the default is the entire disk size, but you can select any size you like if you want multiple partitions). Click Next. FORMAT DRIVE Select the drive letter you’d like to use for your partition and click Next. You’ll be given the chance to format your hard disk. Leave the File System as NTFS and the Allocation unit size as Default. Type in the name you want your partition to be known as. Tick ‘Perform a quick format’, as this will make formatting your hard disk quicker; if you’d like your PC to check your new disk thoroughly, remove this tick. Click Next and Finish. If you didn’t use the full capacity of your hard disk repeat Steps 6 and 7 until you’ve created all the partitions you need.

7

PARTITION DRIVE Once your computer has started Windows, right-click on Computer (My Computer in Vista and XP) and select Manage. Select Disk Management from the left-hand

USE YOUR DISK Click on Computer in the Start menu (My Computer in Vista and XP) and your new hard disk will be listed. You can open it in the same way as your other hard disks and start copying files to it. If you’d like to make your new hard disk the one you boot from, turn over and we’ll show you how to copy your old disk to your new one.

5

6

7

8

6

8

63

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

µ

Copying an old hard disk to a new one

Before you start, download the CloneZilla .iso file and write it to a blank CD

ON THE FACE of it, copying an old hard disk to a new one should simply be a matter of dragging files from one drive to the other. However, it’s not that simple. You’ll face two problems doing it this way: first, Windows will lock some files and won’t let you copy them; and second, boot information won’t be carried across. To do it properly, you need disk-cloning software. This runs on a bootable CD and lets you copy every aspect of one hard disk, including your applications, files, the operating system and boot information, to another disk. Here we’ll show you how to do this with the CloneZilla application, which is completely free. CloneZilla allows you to copy everything on one disk to another or from one partition to another disk. It can even expand a smaller disk to fill a larger one, so that you don’t have to create new partitions manually. No matter how you want to deal with your new disk, though, we’ll take you through the process step by step. First, download CloneZilla from www.clonezilla. org/download/sourceforge. Click the Stable (Debian-based) iso/zip and download the latest version of the .iso file to your hard disk. You then need to write the .iso file to a blank CD. You can use any disc-burning software for this. Windows 7 has native support for .iso files; simply right-click on the file, select Open with, Windows Disc Image Burner and click the Burn button. If you’re using an older operating system

such as XP or Vista, you can use the free CDBurnerXP (available from http://cdburnerxp.se) application to burn your disc. BOOT FROM CD Boot from the CloneZilla CD you created earlier and you’ll be able to choose the resolution in which you want to run the software. Unless you’re using a particularly small screen or you’re having other problems, the first menu option (1,024x768) is the best.

1

CHOOSE COPY MODE When the main application starts, select English as your language. The next screen will ask you to configure your keyboard, but it’s best to leave the default settings, so select Don’t touch keymap. Select Start CloneZilla on the next screen. In the next menu, select how you want to use the software. As we want to copy one hard disk to another, choose device-device; the device-image option makes a backup image of a hard disk. Select Expert on the next screen.

2

SELECT DISKS To make a complete copy of a hard disk, select disk_to_local_disk; the other options let you copy a hard disk to a hard disk on another computer, or just copy one partition. On the next screen you’ll need to select your source hard disk. As we haven’t changed anything yet, this will be the first hard disk in your computer, listed as sda or hda. Check the model number and size of the disk to make sure you’ve chosen the right one. It’s very important to do this, or you could lose all your data. The next screen shows the available source hard disks; if you have only two disks in your computer, your new hard disk will be the only one shown. Make sure you enter the right selection if you have multiple hard disks and press Enter. Then press Enter again.

3

SET RESIZE OPTIONS You’ll now see a list of the Expert options you can select. If you’d like to use just your new hard disk, select ‘Resize the filesystem to fit partition size of target partition’. This will expand your old disk to fit your new one. If you leave this option blank, your old hard disk will be copied to a partition of the same size on your new hard disk; to use any extra space, you’ll have to create a new partition in Windows. Select ‘Use the partition table from the source disk’ on the

4

64

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

1

2

3

4

5

6

next menu to start the copy procedure, and press Enter to continue.

Finally, type Y and press Enter again to confirm that you want to clone your hard disk.

SET FINAL OPTIONS CloneZilla will now check your hard disks and ask if you want to continue. Type Y and press Enter. Type Y and press Enter, again to confirm the second warning. Finally, type Y and press Enter to confirm that you want to copy the boot sector of your hard disk (if you don’t, you’ll be unable to boot from your new hard disk).

COPY DISK CloneZilla will now copy your old hard disk to your new one, which can take anything from around 20 minutes to a couple of hours depending on how much data you have. When it’s finished, press Enter to continue. Press 1 to reboot your computer, remove the CD when it’s ejected and press Enter to confirm.

5

6

Tip Make sure you select the correct disk to copy from or you could lose all your data.

65

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

CHOOSING THE BOOT PRIORITY To boot from your new hard disk you need to make sure it’s the first boot disk. There are two ways of doing this. First, you can switch data cables between your old and your new hard disk. As SATA ports are numbered, this will put your new hard disk further up the chain than your old one. An easier method is to use the BIOS to set the boot priority. All BIOSes are slightly different, but the basic options are similar. Look in the Advanced BIOS Features menu for an option called Hard Disk Boot Priority. In this menu, select your new hard disk as the first model to boot from. You’ll be able to identify hard disks by their model name. If you don’t have a Hard Disk Boot Priority menu, your disks should be listed in the standard boot priority options in the Advanced BIOS menu. Select the Second Boot Device option and press Enter. From the list of options, select your new hard disk. Save your settings and exit the BIOS. Your PC should now start from your new hard disk.

CONFIGURING WINDOWS

µ

If you click on Computer in the Start menu you’ll find that only one hard disk is listed. This is

because when you cloned your existing hard disk it copied the disk signature, which Windows uses to identify separate disks. To fix the problem you need to configure your hard disks correctly. Right-click on Computer in the Start menu and select Manage, then click on Disk Management. Your old hard disk will have an Offline message next to it, telling you there’s a problem. To fix it, right-click on your old disk (probably listed as Disk 1) and select Online. Your old hard disk will now appear in Computer, and you can browse through it. You can either keep this disk as it is until you’re happy that your new disk is working correctly or you can wipe it and start again. We’d recommend keeping your old hard disk intact until you’ve read through the New Partitions section below. That way, in the unlikely event of anything going wrong, you’ll still have a hard disk with a working version of your operating system on it. Remember, if something does go wrong and you want to boot from your hard disk, you’ll need to set your BIOS so that your old hard disk has boot priority. To erase the disk, right-click your old disk in Computer and select Format. Make sure that Quick Format is selected and click Start. Click

µ

Set the BIOS boot order to load Windows from the hard disk

You can set which hard disk your BIOS should boot from first

ØØ

CHAPTER 3

µ

Internal upgrades

µ

You can create a new partition using unused disk space

You’ll need to put your old disk into Online mode

OK on the warning message that appears. A Quick Format should take just a few seconds. Click OK when prompted and your old disk will be blank and ready for use.

MANAGING NEW PARTITIONS If you decided not to tell CloneZilla to resize the file system to fill your new hard disk, you may find that you’re not using all the space on your new hard disk. If you’d like to use all the available capacity, you need Disk Management. Your new hard disk will be listed as Disk 0. Inside this disk you’ll see all the partitions available for use. If you’re using Windows 7, it’s normal to have a partition at the start of the disk that’s 100MB in size and called System Reserved. This should be left alone. The following partition will be called C: and is where your operating system is stored. If you still have any unallocated space, it

means you’re not using the entire disk. If you’d like to create a second partition, right-click on the Unallocated space and select New Simple Volume. Click Next, type in the amount of disk space you want to use (the default is all the spare space on your hard disk). Click Next to assign a drive letter. Leave the Format options at their default settings and click Next and then Finish to complete creating your new partition. Alternatively, if you’d rather encompass all your disk’s spare space into the C: drive, right-click the C: partition and select Extend volume. Click Next and you get to choose how much free disk space you want to add to the existing partition. The default option is the entire free space, so click Next. Click Finish to complete the operation and your C: partition will now be larger. This partition doesn’t have to be reformatted and your files will remain intact. 67

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? Whether you want to burn discs quicker or simply add the ability to play HD movies, upgrading your optical drive is a must.

Installing an optical drive IF YOU’RE INTERESTED in movie-making, a DVD writer is an essential upgrade. You’ll be able to burn your movies to DVD-Video, creating discs that will play in set-top DVD players and PCs. With a dual-layer writer you can even create featurelength discs without compromising video quality. A DVD writer is also ideal for backup and archiving. The latest drives can fill a disc in under six minutes, and with 4.7GB or 8.5GB capacities available you’ll be able to burn huge amounts of data to a single disc costing as little as 15p. To watch HD movies, you’ll need a Blu-ray reader, but look for a Blu-ray writer if you want to create your own discs or archive up to 25GB of data at a time. Blu-ray discs are expensive, however, costing around £8 each.

DVD FORMATS

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT You’ll be able to fit any type of optical drive.

2003-2006 You can fit any DVD writer, but you’ll need a SATA port for a Blu-ray drive.

PRE-2003 Your PC will be too slow for Blu-ray, but DVD writers can be fitted.

One of the great advantages of DVD writers is that anyone with a DVD reader drive in their PC can read the discs you create. Although sharing your finished discs is easy, buying blank discs in the first place can leave you feeling bewildered. There are currently no fewer than seven writable DVD formats in use, and you need to make sure the type of disc you buy is supported by the drive in your PC.

GOING HD Blu-ray has won the format war, so there’s no point in buying a standalone HD DVD writer. However, if you want to watch movies, a combination HD DVD/

SATA POWER Plug the hard disk’s power in here.

SATA DATA Plug one end of the data cable in here and the other end into a SATA port on the motherboard.

JUMPER Use this to set the drive to Master or Slave.

IDE CONNECTOR Plug the IDE data cable in here.

Øs

Fortunately, modern drives support most of the available kinds of DVD media. They all support the write-once DVD+R and DVD-R formats and their rewritable DVD+RW and DVD-RW counterparts, which by now are a familiar sight in computer shops and even supermarkets. A more recent development is dual-layer media. Two-layer writable discs can hold 8.5GB of data, nearly twice as much as the 4.7GB of the original formats. Two-layer DVDs are available in two variants: DVD+R DL (sometimes known as DVD+R9) and DVD-R DL. DVD+R DL has been available for a little longer than DVD-R DL, and some drives support the former but not the latter, so make sure you read the small print in drives’ specifications. There are downsides to using two layers, though. Media prices are relatively high, at around £2 per disc, and write speeds are comparatively slow. The final DVD format is DVD-RAM. This is rarely used, though, so we’d recommend that you avoid this format unless you have a specific need for it.

POWER CONNECTOR Plug a Molex power connector in here.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades Blu-ray drive, such as LG’s GGW-H20L, is a good choice, as HD DVD movies are very cheap. This drive will cost you around £150, and can write DVD and Blu-ray discs. Alternatively, the same company’s £70 GGC-H20L can only play back Blu-ray and HD DVD discs, but it can also write DVDs. To get smooth playback, you’ll need a modern ATI or Nvidia graphics card.

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

CHOOSING A DVD WRITER Write speeds are an important consideration, but shouldn’t cause you too much of a headache. The most affordable drives are just as fast on paper as the most expensive: 16X DVD+/-R, 8X DVD+/-RW is pretty much standard. Dual-layer speeds vary, though – currently from 2.4X to 6X – while CD-R and CD-RW write speeds also fluctuate slightly. However, our tests have shown that similarly specified drives can perform quite differently, so the only way to find out how well different models really perform is to read the reviews in Computer Shopper magazine. Performance is less of an issue if you’re upgrading an older PC. We installed a 16X DVD writer in a 350MHz Pentium II PC, and found that the fastest it could manage was 2X burning. That’s because the computer couldn’t feed the drive with data any faster. We didn’t have any problems getting up to full speed with a 2GHz Celeron PC. So if your PC’s processor runs at 1GHz or slower, we’d suggest that it’s not worth worrying about burning speeds when you buy a drive. The software bundled with DVD writers varies widely. Windows XP can write to CD-R, CD-RW and DVD-RAM without any help, but to write to any other media you’ll need disc-burning software. Vista manages full DVD support, too. Some original equipment manufacturer (OEM) drives, designed for PC system builders, are sold without software, while some retail packages include full software suites worth almost as much as the drive itself. Most bundles comprise a cut-down version of one of the leading burning packages, such as Nero or Roxio Creator, but note that these can vary within themselves, with different releases of the software and combinations of programs compared to the full suite. Again, Computer Shopper’s reviews can point you towards the best software bundles. A more important consideration is whether to go for an internal or external drive. Internal drives are a little trickier to install, but are neater once you’ve done so, and cost around half the price of external drives. An external drive is the only option if you’re upgrading a laptop or a small desktop PC, and also makes sense if you use more than one PC. If you choose an internal drive, don’t forget that the front of the drive will be visible, so try to pick a drive that matches your PC’s colour scheme. Most drives are available in a range of colours, and some even come with interchangeable front fascias.

You’ll need a single frontopening 5¼in drive bay

✔

FREE DRIVE BAY

A new DVD burner connects in much the same way as a CD drive. First make sure there’s room for it. You’ll need a 5¼in drive bay. If your PC already has two optical drives, you’ll have to remove one to make space. If there’s an empty bay ready and waiting, check that no cables or other hardware are obstructing the space inside.

Look for a spare IDE connector and power plug

✔

SPARE CONNECTORS

✔

EXTERNAL CONNECTION

If replacing an optical drive, you can reuse its connectors. Otherwise, ensure there are spare power and data cables. Power comes from a four-pin Molex connector. Data is carried over an IDE connection. Two drives can be connected using an IDE cable with three sockets. HD optical drives use SATA power and data connectors, so check for spares.

If there’s no room internally, go for an external drive that connects via FireWire 400 or USB. Make sure your USB ports are USB2; the older USB1.1 is too slow. To check, rightclick My Computer and select Properties. Click Hardware, Device Manager, then USB controllers. ‘Enhanced’ means USB2. If yours aren’t, you can buy a PCI USB2 card. 69

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Install an optical drive CHOOSE YOUR FASCIA If you have an external USB or FireWire drive, plug it into the mains and your PC and skip to Step 8. Internal drives may come with a choice of fascias; fit the one that matches your case. First, pop open the drive tray by pushing an unbent paper clip into the tiny hole on the front. You can then unclip the front panel from the tray. Use a flathead screwdriver to push the clips that hold the rest of the front fascia, and slide it off. Clip the two parts of the fascia you want into place, in reverse order, and shut the tray.

1

MAKE JUMPER SETTINGS Each IDE channel on the motherboard can be cabled to two drives, but you then need to set one as a Master and the other as a Slave. This is done using jumpers, clips that slide on to pins found on the back of all IDE devices. It’s easiest to do this before you slide the drive in, especially as it will have a guide to its jumper settings printed on top. Try to keep your primary IDE channel for your hard disk(s), and avoid a hard disk sharing a channel with an optical drive. For HD optical drives, you just need a spare SATA port to plug the drive into.

3

OPEN YOUR BAY Take both side panels off your PC; they’re usually held in place by screws at the back. If you’re replacing an old drive, unscrew it on each side, remove its power and data cables by pulling the plugs (not the cables), and slide it out. If you’re using an empty slot, first remove the blanking plate. You should be able to bend and pop it out, perhaps using a screwdriver as a lever. Behind it, there may be a metal plate that’s part of the chassis. It may take a little force to remove this.

CONNECT THE IDE CABLE Slide the drive into place, but don’t screw it in yet, as it’s useful to have a little room for manoeuvre. You’ll need an IDE (flat ribbon) cable with three ports if you’re connecting two optical drives to one IDE channel: one for each drive and one to connect to the motherboard. If the cable currently in use in your PC has only two ports, remove it and use the one that came with your drive. On standard 40-wire IDE cables, it

1

2

2

4

Plastic clips retain the fascia. The tray has its own similar fascia

3

×õ

4

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

doesn’t matter whether the middle or end plug is attached to the master or slave drive, but on the finer 80-wire cables the master must be on the end. Connect each plug the right way round so that the small protrusion in the middle lines up with the gap in the socket. If there’s no gap, ensure that the line painted on one side of the ribbon cable is on the same side as the drive’s power socket. Once it’s lined up, push the plug in slowly to avoid bending the pins. Give it a final, firm push to ensure that it’s in. OTHER CONNECTIONS Find a spare power plug from your PC’s internal power supply and untie cables as necessary to make it reach the drive. Line it up with the rounded corners facing up, and push in firmly. Your optical drive probably has audio output sockets; you can ignore these, but connecting an audio output to the CD audio input on your sound card or motherboard means you’ll be able to play the few music CDs that have copy protection. Use the screws provided with your drive to fix it into the case, making sure the fascia lines up neatly. Tighten the screws, but don’t overtighten them, as this could damage the drive.

5

should appear in My Computer. You don’t need any drivers. Windows XP, Vista and 7 will identify it as a DVD-RW; older versions of the operating system will just call it a CD Drive. INSTALL THE SOFTWARE Insert the CD that came with your drive and follow the instructions to install the software. Nero InfoTool is a handy utility to check that your drive supports all the media types it’s meant to. Run Nero StartSmart and, under Extras, click Get System Info. If your drive didn’t come with Nero, download InfoTool from www.nero.com/enu/Info_Tool.html. InfoTool also tells you the drive’s firmware version. Updating to the latest version can improve its ability to write to different media. On the drive manufacturer’s website, find the firmware download for your drive, making absolutely sure it’s the right model (as shown in InfoTool’s Configuration tab). If the version listed is newer than the one on the drive, download it.

7

START UP Replace the panels and start your PC. You should see your drive listed on the POST screen that appears first, and in Windows it

UPDATE THE FIRMWARE An error during a firmware update could kill your drive, so take the precautions the manufacturer recommends, such as removing other drives on the same IDE cable, setting your drive to Master, disabling screensavers and antivirus, and launching Windows in Safe Mode (hold down F8 as the PC boots). Follow the instructions to install the update.

5

6

6

8

Tip

7

8

The ability to drag and drop files on to CDs and DVDs as if they were hard disks is known as ‘packet writing’. To do this, you’ll need extra software such as Nero’s InCD. With this running and a blank disc inserted, you should be able to drag files and folders directly on to the drive icon in My Computer. You may need to format the disc for packet writing first; to do this with Nero, right-click the drive’s icon and select InCD Format.

71

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

Upgrading your graphics card

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? If you want to play the latest games, you’ll need to install a fast graphics card that can cope with them. A new graphics card is also useful if you want to watch HD movies on your PC.

AN OLD OR underpowered graphics card means you won’t be able to run games at the high resolutions they’re designed for, with all the optional graphical effects and enhancements that their makers have worked so hard to build in. Game worlds that seemed astonishing in the publicity pictures will look blocky and basic on your monitor. Even worse for your enjoyment of the gameplay, your PC may freeze at just the wrong moment, or the action on your monitor may be so slow that you can’t respond in time to the actions of your opponents. It doesn’t have to be like this. Here we show you how to choose the right graphics card for your PC and wallet, how to install it, and how to get maximum power from whatever card you buy.

CHECKING COMPATIBILITY

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT You can install any graphics card in your PC.

2003-2006

AGP graphics cards used to be the only type that you could buy, but this standard has been replaced in recent years by PCI Express x16 cards. Consequently there are very few AGP cards available that are capable of playing the latest games. As such, we’d recommend only buying a PCI Express graphics card. Not only is there a

wider range of cards, but they’re cheaper and easier to install. If your motherboard has a PCI Express graphics slot, there are few things to check. Make sure that the power supply in your PC will support your card; today’s powerful graphics cards often need 17 amps or more on the 12-volt line of the power supply. Your PSU’s rating will be printed on its side (see the Compatibility Checklist, opposite). Some motherboards can accommodate two PCI Express graphics cards at once, which are supposed to increase your PC’s 3D performance. There are two dual-graphics cards standards available: SLI for Nvidia-based cards and CrossFire for ATI-based cards. Neither offers a huge improvement boost, though, so we don’t recommend using them. If your motherboard doesn’t support the kind of card you want, it may be worth considering a motherboard upgrade; see page 46 for details.

CHOOSING A GRAPHICS CARD Once you’ve worked out what cards are compatible with your motherboard, choosing a graphics card boils down to assessing

As long as you’ve got PCI Express, you can install any graphics card in your PC.

PRE-2003 You’ll be unable to upgrade your graphics card without replacing your motherboard.

VIDEO CONNECTOR As a minimum, the video connector will allow you to play games using a TV as a monitor. Cards with VIVO capability can also capture analogue video from devices such as VCRs and camcorders. (You won’t need this feature to grab video from a DV camcorder, which should connect via FireWire.)

MONITOR OUTPUTS Most current graphics cards can support two monitors. Two types of outputs are generally present: digital DVI (top) and analogue D-sub (bottom). DVI outputs give better image quality if your monitor has a matching tching input. They can also be used with a D-sub monitor via a simple converter (right); check that one is included with your card if you’ll need it.

×ä

POWER CONNECTOR Many graphics cards need their own power, supplied by a PCI Express power connector from your PC’s power supply.

INTERFACE The interface that connects the card to your PC’s motherboard will be either PCI Express or AGP. Only PCI Express graphics cards are worth the upgrade, though, as AGP is out of date.

CHIPSET The graphics card’s chipset does all the 3D work when you play a game and determines the quality and frame rate you’ll enjoy. It’s usually cooled by a fan, as seen here.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades performance and features. The best way to judge performance is to read the reviews in Computer Shopper magazine, which measure performance using a comprehensive set of 3D benchmarks as well as some of the most demanding games. One card that has recently delivered the biggest bang per buck in our tests is ATI’s Radeon HD 5770 (which costs around £110 including VAT). For the ultimate in performance, go for the ATI Radeon HD 5830 (around £200 including VAT), as this will handle any game at high detail settings. These new ATI graphics cards can use up to three outputs in Eyefinity mode, spreading your game across a panorama of screens. However, you have to use a DisplayPort output for one of the monitors. These displays are expensive, although can you can buy an active DisplayPort-to-DVI adaptor for around £80 and use a standard display. The latest graphics cards require both an eight-pin and six-pin PCI-E power connector, so make sure your power supply is compatible.

GOING HD Games performance isn’t the only reason to think about upgrading your graphics card; HD movie performance is also worth considering. Both ATI’s and Nvidia’s latest graphics cards can decode HD video from Blu-ray discs, giving you the best performance. This will be an essential upgrade for a lot of people, as some processors can’t handle HD decoding. It can also help reduce heat in your computer, as the processor doesn’t have to work hard to display an HD picture. The other thing to look out for is HDCP support and HDMI outputs. Again, the latest graphics cards have both, so you can easily connect your PC to your HD TV, complete with sound running over the same connection. This doesn’t have to be expensive, as ATI’s Radeon HD 3450 shows. Available for around £30, it’s the perfect choice for media centre PCs. This card can’t output high-definition audio from a Blu-ray, though, and downsamples the audio to DVD quality. If you want to get HD audio to a compatible home cinema receiver, you’ll need an ATI Radeon HD 5000-series graphics card. Currently, the best option is the ATI Radeon HD 5450 (around £40 including VAT). This low-profile card will fit in any case, and it’s passively cooled, so you won’t be adding any noise to your computer. This is a vital consideration when thinking about a computer that will spend most of its time in a living room, rather than buried underneath a desk. Once you’ve found the card that provides the best performance and features for your budget, make sure you read through the Compatibility Checklist (right) to ensure that it will work in your computer. You may need to consider other upgrades in this book to complete your upgrade.

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

A divider in this position indicates a 3.3V AGP slot

✔

PCI EXPRESS SLOT

Forget AGP graphics slots, as you’ll be unable to get a decent card to install in one. Instead, you’ll need a PCI Express x16 slot to install your graphics card. These have been standard on most new motherboards since late 2004, so if your computer is only a few years old you should have one. This chipset cooler is fine with single-sided cards but obstructs double-sided heatsinks

✔

FREE SPACE

✔

POWER SUPPLY

Some graphics cards have tall heatsinks, so the PCI slot below must remain empty. Other cards’ heatsinks extend from the back of the card to the inside of the case; in some PCs, this heatsink could touch the motherboard’s, which can be dangerous. Some newer cards sit in the graphics slot but also take up the slot below.

Your PSU will need to have the right power connectors. The majority require a six-pin PCI-E connector, although you can buy Molexto-PCI-E adaptors. High-end cards need the new eight-pin PCI-E connector; there are no adaptors available for this, so you’ll need a new PSU if you have a card that needs one of these. 73

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Replace a graphics card PREPARE YOUR PC -itting a graphics card is relatively easy as long as you do everything in the right order and don’t miss any crucial steps. First, get your system ready. Uninstall the drivers for your current graphics card, even if the card you’re installing has a chipset from the same manufacturer, or you’ll probably find some of your new card’s features aren’t detected properly. Go to Start, Settings, Control Panel. Double-click on Add/Remove programs, then look for an entry that has ATI or Nvidia in the name. Click Change/ Remove. Make sure you uninstall all relevant programs, then reboot your PC. You can also use free driver-cleaning software such as Driver Cleaner (www.drivercleaner.net) to make sure.

1

REMOVE YOUR OLD CARD 6nce you’ve uninstalled the old driver, shut down your PC, switch off at the mains, unplug the power cable, and press the on/off switch to clear any charge remaining in the power supply or circuitry. Touch an exposed part of a central-heating radiator to ground yourself. Now take the cover off your PC case and remove your old graphics card, first unscrewing its backplate. Be careful, as there may be a catch at the back of the slot holding the card in place. If your motherboard has integrated graphics, remove the blanking plate blocking the graphics card slot. When you install a new card, the integrated graphics will either be automatically disabled or continue to function as a secondary display adaptor.

2

SLOT IN YOUR NEW CARD Check all the cables and other cards in your system. Make sure nothing will get in the way of your new card. If it needs a lead from the power supply, make sure there’s a large drive connector free that will reach all the way to the card’s power connector. If not, rearrange your power connectors. When everything’s ready, place your graphics card on the graphics slot. Make sure it’s properly aligned, then apply gentle, even pressure along its length. You should feel the card clunk home. Screw the card’s backplate into place using the screw you removed in the Step 2. Plug your monitor into the monitor output of your new graphics card. If your monitor only has an analogue D-sub input, you may need a DVI-to-D-sub adaptor. These cost a few pounds from your local computer store, but your graphics card manufacturer should have provided at least one in the box.

3

Tip If possible, work on your system in an uncarpeted area, such as your kitchen. This reduces the chances that you’ll build up a static charge that could damage your new card.

74

INSTALL THE DRIVER 7lug in your computer and reboot it. It may start up at a low resolution. You must now install the driver for the graphics card. If you have a broadband internet connection, it makes sense to download the very latest drivers from the Nvidia or ATI website (see page 16) before you start installing the card. Follow the driver wizard through to get the right driver, or you could have problems. Alternatively, use the driver disc that came with the card. Wherever your driver file is located, run the install routine by double-clicking it. If Windows warns you that the driver isn’t certified, don’t worry; click on the button that tells Windows to install the driver anyway. If you’re installing an ATI card and choose the Custom Install option, remember to install the ATI Control Panel, as it adds crucial settings.

4

TWEAK THE DRIVER 5ext, optimise your driver to get the best results possible from your card. To do this, right-click on your desktop, choose Properties and go to the Settings tab. Click on Advanced. A new window will appear. If you have an ATI card, you need the 3D tab; for Nvidia cards, click on the tab named after your graphics card. The two settings that will make the most difference to the quality of your games are AntiAliasing and Anistropic filtering (in the ATI driver, tick Use custom settings to access these). By trial and error, turn them up as far as they’ll go without slowing down your favourite game.

5

OVERCLOCKING :ome cards have built-in overclocking modes. Check your manual to see if yours can be boosted in this way. If it does have options for this, you’ll be able to increase the speed of your graphics card for free. The options usually let you increase the speed of your graphics card’s memory, which lets it shift data around quicker. You can also usually change the graphics chip’s speed, so that it displays graphics at a faster rate. You should be careful when using any overclocking options, as it can damage your graphics card. You may also invalidate your warranty, so only overclock if you know what you’re doing and you’re confident that you won’t cause problems. If you do overclock and your computer starts crashing a lot, particularly when you’re playing games, reset the options back to the manufacturer’s default settings.

6

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

£

Ó

Î

{

x

È

Watch for the bottom of the backplate catching

Anti-aliasing smoothes graphics

75

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? A new case won’t just make your PC look better, it can make it quieter and give you more room inside for hard disks. Modern cases all come with front-mounted USB and audio ports for convenience.

CAN I UPGRADE?

Upgrading your PC case YOU CAN ADD a host of wonderful things to a PC to improve its performance, but only if there’s room inside the case. You may find that your existing case has no spare bays for adding disk drives, or its design doesn’t provide the room for a large, silent processor cooler. There are other reasons why you might want to upgrade your case. Older cases are designed for older components, and may not be able to keep a powerful new upgrade cool. You may also want to update your PC housing so that it looks the part in a smart home office. Over the next six pages, we’ll guide you through the process of choosing a new PC case, transferring your components to it and checking that everything works properly. This walkthrough

CASE FANS Most cases have a single fan that’s adequate to cool a typical computer. A PC with many disk drives or hot components may need more.

assumes that you are upgrading only the case. If you plan to change other components, too, follow this guide first to check that your old components will work in your new case before you perform other upgrades.

CHOOSING A CASE There’s more to choosing a PC case than buying one you like the look of. PC motherboards come in standard sizes and layouts, known as form factors, and you need a case that is compatible with yours. If you have a normal desktop or tower PC, its motherboard’s form factor will be ATX or microATX. Small microATX cases have room only for microATX motherboards, but most larger ATX cases can hold ATX or microATX boards.

5¼in DRIVE BAYS You’ll need one of these for each optical drive you have, and any accessories such as fan speed controllers.

2007-PRESENT You’ll be able to use any new case, but with such a new PC it may not be worth it.

2003-2006 Your PC’s components can be moved into a new case with ease.

PRE-2003 Your PC’s components can be moved into a new case with ease. 3½in DRIVE BAYS Choose a case that has enough drive bays to hold all your hard disks, floppy drives and memory card readers.

MOTHERBOARD MOUNTS Most motherboards screw into nine or 10 mounts. A good case should have a number of movable mounting points that you can configure to suit your motherboard.

×Ø

FRONT-MOUNTED PORTS You’ll need suitable headers on your motherboard to connect case-mounted USB, FireWire or audio ports.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

Some cases may conform to these standards, but still not accept all PC components. Slimline desktop or media centre cases may require slimline optical drives such as those you’d find in a laptop computer. Check whether one comes with the case. ATX-compatible cases may not have room for the biggest ATX motherboards. If in doubt, measure your motherboard and check it against a case’s maximum. Your new case must be able to accommodate your existing drives and any that you plan to add later. Drive bays come in two sizes: 3½in bays suitable for hard disks and floppy drives, and 5¼in bays for CD and DVD drives. Some bays open out to the front of the PC. These external bays can be used for floppy or optical drives. Internal bays are suitable only for hard disks. Make sure that your new case is at least as well ventilated as your old one, and better cooled if you plan to perform further upgrades in the future. Most cases have fans of 80mm or 120mm in diameter. Larger fans are generally quieter and more efficient. Check that there are places to mount any additional fans you may need to keep powerful devices cool. Cases with front- or top-mounted USB, FireWire or audio ports can be convenient, but you’ll need suitable connectors on your motherboard to make the sockets work. The 10-pin AC’97 plug most modern cases use may not fit the audio headers on older motherboards; check the manufacturer’s manual for AC’97 compatibility. Many cases come with a good power supply unit (PSU). However, if your old supply is quieter or more powerful, you can always transfer it to your new case. For more information on upgrading your power supply, see page 82.

✔

MOTHERBOARDS

✔

DRIVE BAYS

✔

HEADERS

MicroATX motherboards are square and have up to three expansion card slots. ATX boards are rectangular and have up to six slots. Check that a case allows access to them all. Either board type fits in an ATX case, but ATX boards are too big for microATX cases. Check that an ATX case takes the maximum 305x244mm ATX motherboard size.

The number and type of drive bays varies a lot between cases. Count your optical drives and any other 5¼in accessories you have, and get a case with enough bays for them all. Make sure it has enough internal 3½in bays for your hard disks and external bays for any floppy disks or memory card readers. Ideally, you should have some bays spare for future use.

INSTALLATION During this upgrade, you’ll need to disconnect and reconnect many cables. Keeping detailed notes will help you to reconnect everything correctly. A digital camera could also prove useful to remind you what goes where. Before you start, and now and then as you work, discharge any static electricity you have built up by touching an unpainted part of a radiator. Disconnect the power and other cables from the back of your PC. Remove the side of your PC’s case, referring to the manufacturer’s manual for instructions if necessary, and lay the PC on its side with the motherboard facing up.

A case’s lights, buttons and ports connect to pins on the motherboard called headers. Some, such as FireWire ports, use a standard header, but others can vary. If your motherboard has audio, FireWire or USB headers, get a case with suitable ports. You’ll need a header for each FireWire port, but USB headers can connect up two USB ports. 77

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Change your PC case TAKE OUT YOUR EXPANSION CARDS Remove any expansion cards from the motherboard, making sure you first remove any power or data cables plugged into them. Sound cards or modems may have audio cables connecting them to the motherboard or to an optical drive. Unscrew or unclip each card from the case and pull it vertically out of the socket. Grip the edges of the card’s circuit board, not its components or connectors. Most graphics cards are held in with an additional clip at the back of the AGP or PCI Express slot, which you must release before you remove them. Place each extracted card on a dry, dust-free surface or an anti-static mat.

1

REMOVE THE POWER CONNECTORS You shouldn’t need to remove any other components from your motherboard, as long as you’re careful when moving it between cases. If your new or old case is compact, or you have an unusually large or heavy processor heatsink, you may have to remove the heatsink, referring to its manufacturer’s instructions. Unplug the 20- or 24-pin ATX motherboard power connector and any other four-pin, eight-pin or Molex power connections attached to the motherboard. Many motherboard power connectors have small clips, which you need to press as you remove them. You should remove the data and power connections to your disk drives. Before removing your floppy drive’s ribbon cable, note at each end the orientation of the wire marked in red. Also note the hard disks and optical drives connected to each IDE ribbon cable. Unplug any SATA data cables. Remove the SATA, Molex and floppy drive power plugs from all your drives and disks. Wobble stiff Molex plugs gently from side to side to free them, but never up and down.

2

REMOVE YOUR OPTICAL AND HARD DISK DRIVES Depending on the case, all or some of the drives may be screwed into a drive bay or a removable caddy. Optical drives are often mounted on runners that slide into place from the front. These are normally released by pinching in catches on the runners. If a disk is screwed to the drive bay, you may need to remove both sides of your case to get at all the screws. Those on the motherboard side of your case may not be obviously accessible, but there should be suitable access holes for a

3

×s

screwdriver. In other cases, you’ll need to extract the disk caddy or slide out runners before you can get at the screws holding each drive in. All 5¥in drives should slide out of the front of the case. Depending on the case design, the floppy drive may slide forwards or backwards. If you’re unsure how to remove a drive, your PC’s manual should be able to guide you. Drives are heavy, so be careful not to drop them as this could damage them or other components. The screws that secure optical and floppy drives have finer threads than those used elsewhere in the case, so keep them separate. REMOVE THE MOTHERBOARD FROM THE OLD CASE Before you remove your motherboard, make a note of the remaining connections. Pay particular attention to the position and orientation of the front panel connections, as these can be tricky to reconnect. Most motherboards mark the pins for the reset

4

1

4

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

and power switches and the hard disk and power LEDs, but not always particularly clearly. The motherboard manual should contain a diagram with detailed connection information. Drawing a diagram or taking photos at this stage will help you avoid mistakes later. Make sure that nothing is connected to the motherboard before removing the screws that hold it in place. The ports at the back of the motherboard will catch on the case if you lift it straight up, so move it towards the case’s front slightly as you pull it up and out. Hold it by its edges and look out for obstructions. With the motherboard safely placed to one side, remove the motherboard backing plate from the back of your old case by gently pushing its corners towards the inside of the case until it pops out. Try not to force it, as the plate may bend. If you’re transferring your power supply between cases, remove the screws fixing it to the back of your case, then slide it forwards and out.

FIT THE MOTHERBOARD INTO YOUR NEW CASE First, use an air duster (available from www.maplin.co.uk for £10) to remove the dust from your old components. Fit the motherboard backing plate into your new case, pressing it into place from the inside. Make sure it’s oriented to match the ports on your motherboard. If necessary, insert the power supply and screw it into place, tucking its cables out of the way. The inside of your new case will have a number of holes to which you attach the mounts for your motherboard. These are usually a screw thread topped with a hexagonal metal nut and will be supplied with the case. Put your motherboard into the case and line up its ports with the backing plate. Use a pencil to mark the holes in your case that line up with screw holes on your motherboard, remove the board and fit a mount into each marked hole. Remove any mounts that aren’t under a hole in your motherboard. Many cases have labelled screw holes to help you.

2

3

5

6

5

Note the position of the red wire

Tip Take care tags don’t get caught in ports

Even the best-quality cases can have sharp or rough edges. Avoid cuts and breakages by working with care and not using excessive force.

79

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

Lower your motherboard back into the case and align its ports with the backing plate. Many backing plates have springy metal tabs that rest against the side of your motherboard’s ports. Make sure none of these is caught in the ports as you move the motherboard into place. The ports should end up flush with or slightly inside the backing plate, and the motherboard should also be aligned with the mounts beneath it. Don’t worry if the alignment isn’t exact, but make sure that there’s a mount under each of the motherboard’s screw holes before screwing it into place. At each mount point, fit a screw of the correct size and turn it until it is engaged into the mount point’s thread. Don’t tighten any screws fully until you have fitted one to each mount point and are happy that the motherboard is seated correctly. Once it is, tighten each screw until you meet resistance, being careful not to overtighten any of them. FIT YOUR DISK DRIVES Locate free bays for your hard disk, floppy disk and optical drives, and follow the case manufacturer’s instructions to fit them. Add runners to disks where necessary. If your case’s runners have a choice of screw holes, examine how the runner clips into the drive bay to help you select the right positions. Optical and floppy drives use screws with a fine thread, so be careful not to overtighten them. Before you insert external-facing drives, you may have to remove blanking plates from the front of the case. These can usually be unscrewed or popped out, but any internal plates behind them

6

7

sõ

may need to be broken free by repeated wobbling. Be careful of any sharp edges left behind. Once you have cleared a drive bay, slide the drive in from the front and secure it with screws or clips. ATTACH CONNECTORS TO YOUR MOTHERBOARD Attach the connectors for your case’s front panel buttons, status lights and speaker to your motherboard’s headers. If they won’t reach, check that they aren’t shortened with cable ties. Refer to your motherboard’s manual and the notes or photos you took earlier to make sure you connect each correctly. The case’s header plugs may not be exactly the same as those in your old case, but they will be labelled. Be careful to connect the power and hard disk LEDs the right way round; switches work either way. Any front-mounted FireWire ports should have a 10-pin connector labelled 1394, which fits into the corresponding header on your motherboard. A blocked off pin ensures that you position it correctly, but be careful not to connect it to a USB header. USB ports have only four pins. On a modern case, two ports usually share a 10-pin connector or have a pair of four-pin plugs. Rarely, each USB port may have four individual connectors. The 10-pin plug usually has a blocked pin to ensure the correct orientation, but be sure to fit four-pin connectors the right way round. Refer to your motherboard’s manual for guidance. Your manual and notes should guide you if you need to connect front-mounted headphone and

7

8

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

Testing and troubleshooting PC cases microphone sockets to the correct pin headers. If your case has many small audio connectors, observe their correct polarity. RE-INSTALL YOUR EXPANSION CARDS Remove blanking plates from any slots you need for your graphics card, sound card or other expansion cards. Holding each card by its edges, line it up with the slot and push it into place. Some cases use clips to retain the card’s backing plate, but most use screws. Make sure each card is fixed in place, checking that the front clip securing your graphics card is engaged. Connect any auxiliary power your graphics card requires and any cables you removed from other expansion cards. Plug the motherboard power connectors in. The connectors will fit only one way, so don’t try to force them in. Reconnect the floppy and hard disk data cables according to the notes you made earlier. Hard disk cables go in only one way, but be sure to align the floppy cable correctly. Plug a suitable power cable into each drive. Most motherboards have headers for case fans, but if you have a number of fans you may need to use a Molex adaptor cable.

8

TIDY UP LOOSE CABLES Before you put the sides back on your case, it’s worth tidying up any loose cables. Use cable ties to bunch wires together and gather up cables that are too long. This looks smarter, helps air to flow freely through the case and can prevent cables fouling cooling fans. Now reconnect all the cables to the back of your PC and turn it on.

9

9

With so many parts to remove and refit, it’s easy to miss something that may cause problems. Check that the power and reset switches work and listen for a beep when the computer’s POST screen appears during bootup. Check also that the power and hard disk LEDs work correctly. Boot into Windows and make sure any front-mounted USB or FireWire ports work by plugging in a cheap device such as a mouse or thumb drive. If Windows doesn’t recognise the device, check the orientation of the header plugs against your motherboard’s manual. Test audio ports using headphones, a microphone and Windows Sound Recorder. Double-check your wiring if anything seems amiss.

TROUBLESHOOTING If your PC won’t turn on, make sure the front panel power switch is connected to the correct pins. If it is, check that the ATX power connectors are plugged firmly into the motherboard and the memory and graphics card are seated correctly. Make sure your power supply is set to the right voltage. A PC may not start if the frontpanel USB or FireWire ports are connected incorrectly, so unplug these and try again. If your PC won’t recognise an IDE hard disk or optical drive, check that you reconnected each device to the same cable as before. If your floppy drive’s LED stays on, check the orientation of its cable connection. Make sure all drives have one power lead connected. If the power and hard disk access lights are on all the time, their plugs may be connected to the wrong headers. If either light won’t work, its plug may be the wrong way round. If your audio ports don’t work, check your motherboard’s manual for a jumper setting that enables them. If your PC seems hot or unstable, make sure all your fans are working and not trying to move air in conflicting directions. Front-mounted fans usually draw air into the case and over the motherboard, while rear-mounted fans expel air from the case. Check that no cables are in the way of the fans.

81

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? If you’re adding more components to your PC, you need to have enough power to run them. Modern power supplies also have all the power connectors you need to use newer components.

Upgrading your power supply unit A PC’S POWER supply unit (PSU) converts 230-volt mains electricity into the 3.3V, 5V and 12V supplies needed by the components inside your computer. A good PSU can last a long time, but if you’re planning any major improvements or a recent upgrade has left your system unstable, you may need a new one. There are several different types of PC power supply, and the one you need will depend on the internal layout of your computer, which is known as its case form factor (see page 76 for more details). Most desktop computers use an ATX case and so require an ATX power supply; see the Compatibility Checklist opposite for details.

The amount of power produced by a PSU is measured in watts. A basic PC may run happily with a 300W PSU, but highly specified gaming computers can require 500W or more. You can calculate the maximum power consumption of your system by adding together the power requirements of each component. This information is often printed on product labels or specification sheets, but it can be hard to find. Your motherboard manual may recommend the amount of power that a typical configuration requires. Your motherboard manual may also specify a minimum recommended current, measured in amps, for the PSU’s 12V connectors.

COOLING FAN Most power supplies have a cooling fan that makes a little noise; large 12cm fans are usually quieter.

CAN I UPGRADE? All PCs can have their power supply upgraded.

MOTHERBOARD MOUNTS Most motherboards screw into nine or 10 mounts. A good case should have a number of movable mounting points that you can configure to suit your motherboard.

AC POWER SOCKET This accepts a standard kettle-type cable, which is usually supplied. Most PSUs automatically switch between 110V and 230V, but make sure that you set any switches correctly.

MOTHERBOARD POWER Modern PSUs supply the motherboard via a 24-pin connector, but older ATX motherboards use 20 pins. If necessary, check that your PSU comes with an adaptor or a detachable four-pin extension, as seen here.

sä

FAN MONITOR CABLE Some power supplies have a connector that allows the motherboard to monitor the PSU’s fan for failure.

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST ✔ Some manufacturers publish lists of PSUs that meet their components’ demands. For example, Nvidia’s www.slizone.com lists recommended PSUs for a dual-graphics card SLI system. Make sure you buy a PSU with the right connectors, as explained in the Compatibility Checklist on the right. Count the number of devices in your PC case that need Serial ATA (SATA), floppy and four-pin Molex power plugs. Check whether your graphics card or cards need power from a Molex, floppy or six-pin PCI-Express power connector. Don’t forget to account for any further upgrades you’re planning; you should choose a power supply that exceeds your system’s needs by 50-100W, so that you can be sure you’ll be ready for any future expansion. Most importantly, make sure you buy a PSU with the correct connections for your motherboard, as shown in the Compatibility Checklist. Modern motherboards have a 20- or 24-pin power connector. Most also require an additional 12V feed. This is usually provided by a four-pin plug, but some new boards need an eight-pin connector. Finally, look for a power supply’s efficiency rating. All supplies lose some of the input power, but the higher the efficiency rating, the more input power is sent to your PC and the lower your bills.

INSTALLATION Once you’ve found the right PSU, fitting it is easy. Unplug your PC and remove its cover, referring to the manual for instructions if needed. You shouldn’t have to touch any static-sensitive components, but it’s a good idea to touch the unpainted part of a radiator periodically to discharge any static electricity that has built up.

BUY THE RIGHT POWER SUPPLY

Small PCs are usually built in a mini-ITX or Shuttle case, as shown on the right of the picture. Each requires a special PSU, available only with a maximum output of around 300W. A full-size ATX power supply (on the left) is far too big. If you’re unsure which form factor you have, measure your existing power supply and compare the specs at www.formfactors.org.

✔

POWER REQUIREMENTS

✔

KNOW YOUR CONNECTORS

If you have a puny PSU your system may be unstable, but an over-specified one will be a waste of money. Check your motherboard manual for advice. If you’re about to buy a new motherboard, you should find its manual on the manufacturer’s website. As a general guide, only very highly specified computers need more than 550W, and 400W should be more than enough for a typical PC.

GRAPHICS One of the main reasons to buy a new power supply is to support the latest graphics cards. Power supplies are no longer SLI- or CrossFirecertified, but any supply with the correct connectors will be able to handle multiple graphics cards. If you’re buying a powerful graphics card, look for a supply that has the new eight-pin PCI-E power connector, as you can’t convert six-pin PCI-E connectors. These supplies have a secondary six-pin connector, which you’ll need as well. For old cards with two six-pin connectors, most eight-pin connectors have the extra two-pins of this connector loose, for use with six-pin plugs.

This picture shows all the common power connectors. Clockwise from top left, they are: four-pin Molex (for optical drives and hard disks), floppy drive, SATA (hard disks), 20-/24-pin ATX (motherboard), six- and eight-pin PCI-E (graphics card) and four-/eight-pin 12V (motherboard). Buy a PSU with enough connectors for your existing devices, plus spares for future upgrades. 83

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Fit a power supply unit 1

REMOVE THE OLD PSU Begin by carefully removing all the power connectors from the disk drives in your PC. Follow the length of each wire on your existing PSU, unplugging each connector as you find it. Use tin-snips to cut off cable-ties if necessary, but be careful not to cut any cables (or fingers!) by mistake. Pull connectors directly away from their socket by holding the plastic plug itself, not the wires. Gentle movement from side to side may help free a stubborn Molex plug, but wiggling it up and down could damage the circuit board on a disk drive. Untangle each freed bunch of wires and move it to one side. Release the large motherboard ATX connector by pressing in its catch. If necessary, remove the 12V plug and the fan monitor cable. Disconnect any power connectors from your graphics card. Once all the power cables are free, remove the four screws holding the PSU in place. If your case uses a mounting plate, be sure to remove the right ones; use the position of the screw holes on your new supply as a guide. Take care to support your power supply; don’t let it fall on your motherboard. In some cases, it’s easy to extract the power supply towards the bottom. In other cases, you may need to slide the PSU forwards and rotate it free, as shown in the picture. This may take a little force. Just make sure that a suddenly freed PSU doesn’t strike fragile components in your PC.

1

FIT THE NEW PSU Most power supplies have a large air intake that should point down towards the computer’s processor. Before fitting a PSU, check that its screw holes line up with those on the PC’s mounting plate; you may need to remove the plate and rotate it first. Fitting the new power supply should be the reverse of removing the old one. In some cases, you may have to twist the PSU between any guide rails, applying a little force if necessary. Be patient if this proves tricky. With the power supply slid into place, fit four screws to hold it securely. Connect the four- or eight-pin 12V plug and the 20- or 24-pin ATX plug to the motherboard using any necessary adaptors. Press each one firmly until it clicks into place. Some motherboards require a further Molex connection as well. Connect a power lead to your graphics card if required. If your PSU has a voltage switch, check that it’s set to between 230V and 240V. Make sure no fans are obstructed, then plug in an AC power lead.

2

3

2

Tip Removing a reluctant Molex plug can hurt the skin on your fingers. Protect yourself by grabbing the connector firmly through a dry cloth.

84

On most motherboards, a glowing LED indicates that the motherboard has power; otherwise, switch on your PC and check that the processor fan starts. Remove the power cable again before connecting all the remaining devices in your PC. TIDY UP It’s worth spending a few minutes tidying up your handiwork before closing your PC’s case. Bunch together any unused wires and use cable ties to hold them neatly to the inside of an empty drive bay. Use a few other ties to gather stray wires together in neat groups. Don’t go overboard as you may need to make room for any devices you add in the future. Be careful not to damage any wires with overly tight cable ties.

3

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

Testing and troubleshooting Power supply units TROUBLESHOOTING

• If your motherboard’s power LED doesn’t come on, check that you have made the right power connections. If your old PSU failed, it may have blown the fuse in its mains lead: use the one supplied with your new PSU or test the old one with a monitor or another device. • If your computer beeps, turn it off and double-check that you’ve connected any extra power to the graphics card. Check your motherboard connections, too. • If your computer refuses to start Windows or throws up a disk warning error, make sure you’ve connected power to all your disks. If a SATA hard disk has both a SATA and Molex power socket, check you didn’t connect both. • Some motherboards may display a fan speed error that halts bootup. Check you connected the fan monitor cable, if your new PSU has one. If not, or if your PSU has a variable speed fan, you may need to enter the BIOS to disable monitoring of the power fan. Refer to your motherboard manual for guidance.

µ

If your previous power supply didn’t provide enough power for your system, a more powerful one should make your PC stable again. If you bought a new PSU to keep pace with other upgrades, fit them and check that it can cope. Give your PC a thorough workout with a taxing 3D game or a benchmarking program such as 3DMark06 from www. futuremark.com. Some PSUs come with a power gauge that shows the load the power supply is under. Fitting this is usually optional, but it can provide useful feedback. After your computer has been running for an hour or so, check the case isn’t too hot. A modern PSU automatically adjusts its fan speed to suit its temperature, so it might not extract as much hot air from the case as an older, noisier supply. Even if you can’t hear the PSU fan, you should be able to feel warm air blowing from the vents. If your computer feels very hot, consider fitting a rear case fan to draw more air out. We’d strongly recommend this if you have a fanless PSU. If you forgot to connect any drives or other devices, your computer may not boot into Windows.

Don’t forget to connect the cables to all your components, including your graphics card’s auxiliary power supply. Windows will beep when it starts if you’ve failed to do this

85

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? There’s nothing as annoying as a loud PC. Taking the steps to silence it can improve your computer and make it more enjoyable to use.

CAN I UPGRADE? All PCs can be made quieter to some degree.

Silencing your PC EVERYONE WANTS A fast PC, but there’s a downside to high performance. Powerful components use lots of electricity, and that means they generate more heat. To get rid of the heat, you need extra cooling – and that means more noise. Add plenty of loudly whirring, whining fans to the regular crunching of hard disks and spinning of DVDs, and your PC can end up sounding like an old washing machine. Don’t despair: it doesn’t have to be that way. With a little know-how and the right upgrades, you can cut out most of the shake, rattle and roll. In this section we’ll tell you the parts you need to silence your PC and how to fit them with the minimum of fuss. We’ll also give you some tips on how to cut down on noise for free. There are lots of different types of components you can buy to help make your PC less noisy. The exact components you need will depend on the specific sources of noise in your system. For advice on tracking down the problem parts, see the Compatibility Checklist on page 88. The trickiest quiet PC upgrades are new coolers for things such as graphics cards, chipsets and processors. A cooler is composed of a heatsink and possibly a fan. A heatsink is a large piece of metal that conducts heat away from a chip. The larger the heatsink, the more efficient it will be.

COOLERS The first thing to check before you buy a cooler is whether the part you want will actually fit in your system. We go into more detail on this in the Compatibility Checklist, but we can’t stress its importance enough: there are no real standards for these parts, so check before you buy. The next thing to ensure is that the new cooler you want to buy will adequately cool the part you want to attach it to. Generally, this is easy: check the cooler manufacturer’s website. There will usually be a list of products with which the cooler is compatible. Don’t try to attach the cooler to any other component, even if it seems to fit. We tried a number of different coolers for various PC components. We were particularly impressed by the Zalman VF700-Cu graphics chipset cooler, which costs around £20. This will adequately cool most of today’s graphics cards. It fits both Nvidiaand ATI-based cards, and can be used on models that are up to a couple of years old. For chipset cooling, we recommend the Cooler Master Blue Ice II, which costs around £8. It’s fiddly to install, but fits both the hook and stud types of heatsink mounts (see Steps 5 to 7, page 90). sØ

POWER SUPPLY Once you’ve decided what to do about the fan and heatsink units, you should tackle the power supply unit (PSU). If your PC’s power supply is loud, there’s nothing you can do to muffle the noise safely; you’ll just have to replace it. The main thing to determine before you buy a PSU is whether it can supply the components in your PC with enough current. Check the key components in your PC, particularly your graphics card and processor, to see what their power requirements are. You can get this information from their manufacturers’ websites. Some power supplies, particularly fanless ones, are rated for their peak rather than their average output. You may find that a 550W power supply can actually supply only 450W non-stop. The only way to tell how good a power supply is to read the reviews in Computer Shopper; there’s no way you can test this yourself. If you can’t find a review, a good rule of thumb is to buy a power supply that’s rated at a higher watt value than you need; that way you’re much less likely to encounter problems. Another thing to check when choosing a power supply is that it has all the connections you need. If you have a Serial ATA drive or PCI Express graphics card, you’ll need separate power connectors for these. Don’t buy a power supply with insufficient connectors. Of the quiet power supplies we tested, we were most impressed by the Seasonic S12-430 and Cooler Master 550W RS-550-ACLY. You can buy these from dealers for around £41 and £75 respectively.

CASE FANS Another major source of PC noise is the case fans. There isn’t much to choosing these; mostly you just have to make sure that the replacement fan is the same size as the one making the noise. All the screws and dimensions are standard. If your fan has to fit into a tight space, however, make sure that it’s not too deep. Some 120mm fans we’ve seen were too deep to fit between the drive bays and the front fascia. Any fans rated at 25dBA or less should be very quiet. We like Antec’s LED TriCool fans, which can run at three different speeds, selected with a switch. The 80mm fan costs about £4 and the 120mm fan around £7. If you don’t want to go to the trouble of replacing the fans themselves, you could always add rubber gaskets and screws with rubber washers (grommets). As long as you screw them tightly into place, this minimises vibration and cuts down

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

noise. You can make your own gaskets out of rubber bands, but a smarter solution is the Antec NoiseKiller. This kit costs around £5 and is available in 80 or 120mm versions. You may also want to consider fitting a fan controller. This is a device that allows you to control the speed at which the fans in your system spin. You plug the fans into the controller, and they get their power through it. You can then use the dials on the fan controller to regulate the fan’s operating voltage, and consequently the speed at which the fans spin. The slower a fan spins, the less noise it makes, so you can balance your cooling needs against sound levels. Fan controllers generally fit into a 5¼in drive bay, the kind your PC’s CD and/or DVD drives sit in. Make sure you have one of these free before you buy a controller. Make sure, too, that the power cables of the relevant fans will stretch far enough to plug into the controller. Finally, find out how many pins the fans in your system have on their power connectors; it will be either three or four. Make sure the connectors on the controller have the same number of pins. Theoretically, you should be able to plug a connector with four holes into another connector with three pins. We’ve done this, and it worked fine when we plugged the fan straight into the motherboard, but we couldn’t get it to work when we plugged the fan into the controller. We recommend the Zalman ZM-MFC1 fan controller, which you can buy for around £20.

HARD DISK If your hard disk makes too much noise, there are a couple of things you can do. First, check to see if it’s screwed to the case tightly enough. If it isn’t, it

HARD DISK ENCLOSURE Muffles the noise of your hard disk while keeping the drive cool at the same time.

PSU Quiet power supplies are made with efficient cooling in mind, having large grilles and big, slow-spinning fans.

may rattle around as it works. Screw it down tightly (but not too tightly) and you’ll eliminate this problem. For extra noise-proofing you could use screws with plastic washers fitted to them, which will prevent the metal case of your hard disk touching the metal chassis of your PC and transferring vibration. It may be, however, that your hard disk is just noisy. In this case screwing it tightly to the chassis won’t do any good, and you’ll need a hard disk enclosure. This is a box into which your screw your hard disk to muffle it. These fit into a 5¼in drive bay, so make sure you have one free. When using an enclosure, heat dissipation can be a worry, but Cooler Master’s CoolDrive LHD-V07 (about £20) impressed us with its heatsink-like design. You can also buy packs of self-adhesive insulating foam, which you stick to the inside surfaces of the PC to muffle the sound of the components at work. Just make sure there’s enough room in your case to accommodate the foam and that your case will fit back together once the foam is stuck in place. Finally, read the reviews in Computer Shopper to find out which quiet components are the best and make sure they’ll cool your system properly. Depending on the model, Intel processors tend to run at a maximum of 55°C and AMD processors around 40°. Hard disks tend to work at anything up to around 55°. At no point in our testing did the inside of our case become hotter than 36°. The processor’s temperature rose to 60°, but only when we insulated the PC with foam and ran some intensive benchmarks. Don’t allow components to come close to their maximum operating temperature.

FAN CONTROLLER Allows you to slow down case fans manually when the PC isn’t doing anything demanding. You should also replace any really noisy fans, ideally with large 120mm models.

INSULATING FOAM Deadens sound from your PC. You must ensure your case will fit back together with the foam in place.

PROCESSOR HEATSINK/ FAN If you fit a new processor cooler, make sure the new part will actually fit in your system. Carefully measure the space into which it fits.

CHIPSET HEATSINKS You may be able to replace the coolers on your motherboard and graphics chipsets. Make sure the new ones have the right fittings, as they vary significantly.

87

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

Unplug fans at the Molex plug or the motherboard

✔

INTERNAL CASE FANS

Unplug the power connectors of your PC’s internal case fans (not the CPU fan) one at a time. As long as you’re working in a cool, well-ventilated environment, you can leave each fan off for a minute or two. Listen as you unplug each fan: is the noise from your PC reduced? If so, the fan should be replaced or quietened.

✔

PROCESSOR AND DISKS

✔

INTERNAL SPACE

Switch your PC off, unplug the internal power cable from the hard disk and switch on again. If there’s a lot less noise, you need to muffle the hard disk. Stop the CPU fan by touching the hub for one second. If a lot of noise stops, you need to replace it. If it doesn’t spin when you remove your finger, unplug the power.

Squeeze the drive against its bay and listen

✔

OTHER COMPONENTS

While your hard disk is busy, grip it with both hands and hold it tight to the sides of its bay. If this cuts noise, you need to screw it in more tightly or muffle it. Few other parts can be disconnected, but you can remove the graphics card if you power off and unplug the hard disk. Start up and see if there’s less noise. Check other parts by listening through a kitchen roll tube.

Next, check there’s enough space in your case for any parts you’re thinking of buying. If you want a new cooler for your graphics card chipset, for example, make sure there’s enough clearance under the card. If you want a new cooler for your processor, check that there’s enough space within your case, both vertically and horizontally, to accommodate it.

Check that you have enough power plugs

✔

POWER CONNECTORS

If you plan to buy components such as a fan controller or drive muffler, make sure you’ve enough free 5¼in drive bays. If you’re planning to install lots of new components, make sure there are enough free connectors on the PSU, and that the PSU can provide enough current. ss

NEW COMPONENTS Finally, check the compatibility of the parts you intend to buy. Some processor heatsinks fit several types of CPU, others only one. Chipset heatsink/fan modules may be fixed either with plastic studs or with hooks (see above); some coolers will suit both fittings, others only one.

✔

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades

HOW TO...

Silence your system REPLACE CASE FANS Unscrew your old fan and remove it. Be careful if you need to remove the plastic fascia from the front of your PC: it’s easy to snap the plastic clips. Fit your new quiet fan with the screws provided. These usually have a plastic or rubber washer that sits between them and the case. Tighten them to prevent vibration, but not so tight that you risk cracking the plastic. Finally, plug the fan’s power cable into the same connector as before.

1

INSTALL A FAN CONTROLLER The fan controller will fit into a spare drive bay, so make sure you have one free. You’ll usually have to install the controller from the front, removing your PC’s fascia. Feed the controller’s cables through the drive bay into the case, with the controller following behind. Screw the controller into the bay. Plug a Molex power connector into the controller, then hook the fans up to the controller. As well as having male pin connectors to plug your fans into, the controller will have at least two female connectors on the same leads as two of the male connectors. Plug these female connectors

2

Plastic washers dampen vibration

into the power sockets on the motherboard into which the fans for the chipset and processor coolers were plugged; if you don’t do this, your PC won’t start. REMOVE THE GRAPHICS COOLER Turn off your PC, unplug the power cable and press the on/off button a couple of times until no more charge is left. Take your graphics card from the slot and lay it down on a clean, dry surface in a well-lit area. If there’s a fan on the card’s heatsink, unplug its power cable. On the underside of the card you’ll see two barbed plastic studs protruding through holes in the card. With a small pair of pliers, squeeze the plastic studs together and gently push them back through the holes. Carefully remove the cooler and save it in case the new one doesn’t fit.

3

FIT A NEW GRAPHICS COOLER Exactly how you fit the new cooler will differ between products. Follow the maker’s instructions to the letter. If the fittings for your new cooler screw into place, make sure you use the rubber washers

4

1

2 Attach fans to the fan controller’s male connectors

Tip 3

4

Use a pair of pliers to squeeze the plastic studs on your graphics card

Install the fixing, then the fan

Cut out vibration by tightening all the screws on your PC’s case, and where possible add rubber grommets to screws so that metal doesn’t contact metal. If your PC sits on a hard surface – especially one that may resonate, such as a desktop – then place it on a rubber mat or other soft material.

89

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades provided so that the metal nuts and bolts don’t come into contact with the card’s printed circuit board (PCB). If your fan requires a metal brace to be screwed to its mountings on the underside of the card, do this before you fit the fan. Apply thermal paste before you fit the cooler. Plug in the new cooler’s fan if it has one. Refit the graphics card, unless you need it out of the way to install a chipset cooler (see next step). PREPARE TO FIT A CHIPSET COOLER Chipset coolers attach to the motherboard either with studs, like graphics coolers, or using small hooks. If yours uses hooks, skip to Step 7. If it has studs, you’ll need to take your motherboard out to install it. Remove all the expansion cards, including the graphics card, from the board, unplug all drive and power connectors, and remove any other obstacles. Remove all the screws holding the motherboard in place and gently lift it out. The ports may catch on the blanking plate, so take care.

5

FIT A STUDDED CHIPSET COOLER Lay the board face down, with props such as books at each end. Find the studs of the chipset cooler poking through the underside of the board. Remove the cooler in the same way as the graphics cooler (Step 3). Make sure that you’re removing the right thing: the chipset is the largest chip after your processor. Once the old heatsink is

6

off, fit the new one as for the graphics heatsink, using thermal paste. You can now rebuild your PC and skip the next step. FIT A HOOK-ON CHIPSET COOLER If your heatsink attaches using hooks, you needn’t remove the motherboard, but you should still remove any nearby components, such as the graphics card, to make installation easier and lessen the risk of damage. To unhook the chipset cooler, depress the metal arms holding it in place and gently slide them out of the hooks. Remove the cooler. Apply thermal paste to your new cooler and position it correctly before hooking it on; don’t move it around on top of the chipset. When the arms are in line, lower the new cooler on to the chipset and hook it in place. Don’t forget to plug in the fan’s power lead.

7

FIT A NEW CPU COOLER CPU coolers attach to the motherboard in various ways; follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Remove the old cooler and your processor, then remove the motherboard from the case as in Step 5, laying it upside down on two props. Unscrew the processor mount from the underside of the board. Attach the new mount in its place, then turn the board the right way up. Fit the upper part of the processor mount. Put the processor back in its socket, apply thermal paste, and fit the new cooler according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

8

5

6 Align the triangles and any other marks

To release chipset coolers with studs, you’ll need to remove the motherboard

7 Don’t forget the power lead for the new cooler’s fan

¤õ

8

CHAPTER 3

Internal upgrades If the female power connector has four holes but the connector on your motherboard has three pins, don’t worry. With the connector facing away from you, fit it to the socket leaving the right-hand hole overhanging. The fan will work fine. FIT A HARD DISK ENCLOSURE Remove your old hard disk from its bay. Open your new enclosure and fix the drive into it with the screws provided; they usually have rubber washers. Make sure the drive’s rear connectors are accessible from the enclosure’s main opening. You’ll probably have to screw the enclosure shut. Now fix it into your free 5¼in bay using the screws provided. Plug a power connector into the enclosure to power its fan. Don’t forget, or your hard disk may overheat.

9

FIT A NEW POWER SUPPLY Unplug all the power connectors in your case and remove the old power supply. Sometimes you can take it out through the open side of the case, or you may have to remove a plate from the back. Don’t try to force it out over the top of tightly packed components, or you may damage something. Put the new power supply in its place and make sure that it’s the right way up. Try to use rubber washers with the screws to minimise vibration. Tighten the screws enough to stop the PSU vibrating while in use. Reconnect all the power cables on the motherboard and drive.

10

FIT FOAM INSULATION Remove both sides from your PC case and, if possible, the top and front. Lay the thickest piece of foam on the side panel that you normally remove to gain access. Cut the foam using a sharp knife so that it covers as much of the plate as possible. If there are any ventilation tubes on the panel, remove them first. To make a cutout for a tube, poke cocktail sticks through its screwholes to mark their positions. Lay the tube on top of the foam, its screwholes on the marks. Cut around the tube and remove the foam within. Lay the foam on the panel and screw the tube back into place in the cutout. Peel the tape from the foam to expose its adhesive and stick it to the inside of the panel.

11

ADD EXTRA FOAM Using pieces of thinner foam, repeat the process for all the inside surfaces of your case. Before sticking any piece down, make sure it isn’t obstructing airflow or access to an important component. Make sure you’re not sticking foam to a surface that sits against, hooks over, or otherwise connects with another surface in order for the whole case to fit together; this generally means not taking foam right up to the edges of the panels. Plan how all your foam will fit before cutting it up, so as to avoid being left with oddly shaped bits of foam and gaps you can’t fill. Use thicker pieces of foam to stop empty drive bays rattling or resonating (pictured).

12

9

10

Tip

There may be a removable plate to release the PSU from the rear

11

12

Consider enabling the advanced power management settings in your PC’s BIOS. This allows the PC to use less power when possible, cutting heat and preventing fans from having to spin at their top speed. The only reason to disable it is that it can reduce performance slightly.

91

CHAPTER 4

Laptop

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades IN THIS CHAPTER Upgrading your laptop

94

External upgrades

96

Internal upgrades

97

Upgrading your laptop’s hard disk

98

Upgrading your laptop’s memory

102

Fitting an optical drive to your laptop 106 Installing an expansion card

92

110

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

lthough laptops aren’t as configurable as desktop PCs, there’s still plenty you can do to them to keep them up to date. Most laptops have easy-access panels to let you upgrade the memory, hard disk and optical drive. In this chapter we’ll show you everything you need to know to improve your portable computer.

A

´

93

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

Upgrading your laptop IF YOU’VE EVER upgraded a desktop PC, you’ll know how easy it is. Installing a new graphics card or sound card takes just minutes, and adding an extra hard disk or more memory is equally straightforward. Laptops present a bigger challenge, because they’re not designed with spare room for extra components to be added later. However, while they’re not as configurable as desktop PCs, there’s still plenty you can do to keep your laptop up to date.

EXTERNAL UPGRADES Many laptops have removable covers that provide easy access to internal components, enabling you to change the memory, hard disk and sometimes the optical drive. Even if your laptop doesn’t provide access to these components, it’s possible to upgrade using its standard expansion ports such as the USB, FireWire and CardBus or ExpressCard slots. 94

If you’re running out of hard disk space, it couldn’t be easier to plug in a USB hard disk and add terabytes of additional storage almost instantly. When you need to use your laptop on the move, you can copy any files that you need on to the internal disk and unplug the external drive. Similarly, if your laptop lacks Bluetooth or WiFi, you can plug in an inexpensive USB dongle to add these capabilities. You can also use USB dongles instead of existing WiFi or Bluetooth radios so you have the latest versions (2.1 for Bluetooth and Draft-N for WiFi). This will provide you with better speed and range. Many Bluetooth adaptors are ‘low-profile’ models that barely stick out from the laptop’s case, making them neat to install. Few laptops have built-in broadband modems, but USB versions are provided by most service operators. This means that there’s no need to shell out on a new laptop if you want to access the internet on the move.

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

:AÎÎA¡Üî ì§mÒ Will it be void? Unlike with desktop PCs, laptop manufacturers don’t want to make it easy for you to upgrade your computer. In particular, they’re all keen to detect tampering with the laptop. This usually takes the form of security stickers that cover the key screws to access panels. To remove a panel, you have to break the seal, invalidating your warranty in the process. So is there anything you can do about this? Unfortunately, the answer is: not really. Before you buy any kit to make an upgrade, check your laptop and find out if you have to remove security stickers to proceed. If you do, read your laptop’s warranty carefully to see if it allows for upgrades, or contact your laptop’s manufacturer for advice. If removing the stickers invalidates your warranty, do not perform an upgrade until your warranty has expired. This issue means that it’s worth budgeting for a laptop with the right specifications to last you through your warranty period to avoid problems later.

INTERNAL UPGRADES External add-ons are great, but it’s much more convenient to be able to install such components inside your laptop. This frees up external ports for other devices. It also means that you don’t have dongles and cables protruding from your laptop, which would be inconvenient if you were trying to use it in a confined space, such as on crowded public transport. It isn’t possible to add external memory modules so, if your laptop needs a memory boost, you’ll need to be able to access a memory slot. Not all laptops have empty slots ready to add extra RAM, so you may have to replace existing memory with higher-capacity modules. You’re also unlikely to find room for another hard disk, but it’s relatively easy to replace the disk with a larger one; see page 98 for more details. You may find your laptop provides access to Mini Card slots, in which case you should be able

to add an internal 3G modem or Bluetooth radio. You may also be able to upgrade an existing wireless network card with a newer version.

PROCESSORS AND GRAPHICS It’s rarely possible to upgrade your laptop’s processor, but you may be lucky. If the processor is easy to access, don’t install a processor that exceeds the laptop’s thermal design power (TDP) limit. This information may be impossible to find, and if you inadvertently upgrade to a chip that runs too hot, your laptop could overheat and crash. Because of the difficulty of upgrading laptop processors, we won’t be covering it in this book. We’ve yet to see a manufacturer selling graphics card upgrades for laptops. Most graphics chips are soldered on to the motherboard, which precludes upgrades. Some gaming laptops may have removable graphics boards, but there are currently no compatible upgrades for these. 95

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

External upgrades USB HARD DISK Adding extra storage space is as simple as plugging in an external disk.

USB BROADBAND DONGLE This enables you to get online just about anywhere in the UK.

Tip Low-profile Bluetooth adaptors plug into a USB port, but can barely be seen. They’re much neater than full USB sticks.

¤Ø

USB WIRELESS ADAPTOR This lets you add WiFi to your laptop or upgrade to the latest Draft-N standard.

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

Internal upgrades MEMORY If your laptop has a spare memory slot, you can add extra RAM in seconds. If memory already occupies the slot(s), you can replace the modules with higher-capacity equivalents.

HARD DISK It’s relatively easy to replace your hard disk with a bigger model, but you’ll need to copy all the data from your old disk, or install an operating system from scratch.

3G MODEM A spare Mini Card slot means you can add a 3G modem.

Tip Look for hidden screws under security stickers to avoid damaging your laptop.

97

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades UPGRADE TIME

Upgrading your laptop’s hard disk

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? A new hard disk provides more room for documents, applications and other files. An internal upgrade means you can carry all your data around with you without having to use external disks.

WITH APPLICATIONS, VIDEO and even operating systems taking up more and more room, disk space is a continual headache for PC users. Disk space is a particular issue with laptops, as their hard disks have far smaller capacities than their desktop counterparts. Fortunately, you can easily upgrade a hard disk to prolong your laptop’s life. Desktop hard disks store data on 3½in-wide platters, but most laptops use drives with 2½in platters. Netbooks and ultra-portable laptops may use even smaller disks, which can be hard to buy online. These days, laptop disks cost little more than 3½in disks, with the cheapest working out at around 16p per gigabyte. Hard disks have a small memory cache to speed up read and write operations. Drives with 8MB or 16MB caches cost more than those with 2MB but

perform quicker. Drive spin speeds are measured in revolutions per minute (rpm). Pricier 7,200rpm disks tend to be faster, but use more battery power than 5,400 or 4,200rpm models. It’s important to choose a disk that will work in your laptop (see the Compatibility Checklist, opposite). Before upgrading, you need to decide what you’ll do with the data on your old disk, since this will have to be removed permanently from your laptop in order to fit the new disk in its place. A disk upgrade is a good opportunity for a fresh Windows installation or a chance to upgrade your operating system, but make sure you save your documents and files first, as discussed in the Compatibility Checklist box. If you’re planning on creating a new installation, make sure you have your laptop’s restore disc or Windows CD, or buy a new operating system.

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT You’ll be able to fit any modern SATA hard disk.

2003-2006 You’ll be able to upgrade your hard disk easily.

CADDY Most laptops have a drive caddy, of which there are many types. Usually the hard disk screws into the caddy, which slots or clips into the laptop and is then secured by further screws.

DIMENSIONS Most laptop hard disks are 69mm wide and contain spinning platters that are 2½in wide. Modern disks are 9mm tall, so don’t buy a 12.5mm model unless you know your laptop can accept one. A 9mm disk will generally fit a caddy of either depth.

PRE-2003 You should be able to fit a larger hard disk, but you’ll need to find out the maximum disk size that your computer can support.

IDE ADAPTOR Many laptops connect to the hard disk through an adaptor. You can re-use the one from your old disk.

¤s

2½in IDE CONNECTOR This IDE connector has been used with laptop disks for over 10 years, as a regular desktop IDE ribbon is too big. Some recent laptops use SATA disks (see Compatibility Checklist, opposite).

SATA CONNECTOR Modern laptops use a SATA interface for power and data, which is identical to the SATA connections on a desktop PC. There’s usually no need for an adaptor.

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST ✔

Some laptops keep System Restore information in a hidden disk partition. Windows applications can’t see this, so it isn’t normally possible to copy it to a new drive. If you’re planning to use a restore CD, check first with your laptop’s manufacturer to make sure that it doesn’t rely on information stored on your original hard disk.

GETTING AT THE DISK Most laptops have removable panels that provide easy access to the hard disk. These are usually held in place by a few small screws. Once you’ve unscrewed them with a jeweller’s screwdriver, unclip the panel. Read your laptop’s manual to see if it tells you how to access the hard disk. It’s easier to get at the hard disk in a smaller PC manufacturer’s laptop. These companies buy laptop cases in bulk and then fit components such as the hard disk later, so they need easy access. Most laptops from the big manufacturers also have easy-access panels. These companies tend to build a single model, but then offer it with different specifications, such as a larger hard disk. However, you may have trouble with ultraportable laptops or ruggedised notebooks. These tend to be carefully designed for a specific job, and ease of access to components isn’t usually a primary concern. Check that upgrading the hard disk doesn’t invalidate your warranty. A lot of manufacturers put stickers over the access screws; breaking these tells an engineer that you’ve been inside the laptop, thereby invalidating your warranty.

INSTALLATION To keep your existing operating system, use a disk-imaging program such as Norton Ghost to clone your entire hard disk to the new drive. You’ll need an external 2½in disk enclosure or caddy. These cost around £15. There are versions for IDE and SATA laptop drives, so make sure you get the one that fits your computer. You’ll also need a spare USB port on your laptop into which you can plug it. Once your caddy arrives, fit your new disk according to its manual. In our walkthrough on page 100, we’re assuming you have valuable data to transfer to your new drive – if not, you can skip Step 1. If you’re cloning your disk, we’ll assume you’re using Norton Ghost 14, but you could use a similar program such as Acronis True Image instead.

INTERFACES

Older laptops have 2½in Parallel ATA (PATA) drives with a small IDE connector, as shown in the annotation opposite, but recent laptops use 2½in SATA disks. These two interfaces aren’t compatible and no converters are available for laptops as they are for PCs, so make sure you buy the correct type of disk. Compare your new disk to the old one before opening its anti-static bag, just in case you’ve made a mistake. Laptop SATA hard disks use exactly the same connectors as desktop SATA disks. This can be useful, as you can put your new or old disks into your desktop PC and use that either to back up or restore your files. You could even put your old disk into your PC permanently, although you’ll need to buy a drive bay adaptor in order to be able to screw it in place.

✔

BACK UP YOUR DATA

If you’re installing a new disk from scratch, consider how to back up any important files from your old drive. We recommend buying an external USB 2½in disk enclosure for your old hard disk. You can copy data directly from it to the new drive. After upgrading, you can use your old drive as an external disk, giving you somewhere to back up your files to when your laptop is at home. An external disk is also an easy way to carry around lots of files.

99

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

HOW TO…

Fit a laptop hard disk BACK UP YOUR HARD DISK Run Norton Ghost 14 and select Copy My Hard Drive from the Tools menu. Click Next on the first Copy Drive Wizard window, select your current disk on the Source Drive page and click Next again. There may be several entries in the list, even if there’s just one physical hard disk; this would certainly be the case if there are multiple partitions on your disk. The list will also show partitions that are hidden to Windows, such as those used for system recovery. Make sure you select the partition with the operating system on it. You should be able to identify this by the size of the partition, along with its label. On the next screen, in the Select Destination list, choose your new hard disk. This may be labelled New Volume D:\. Click Next again. In the Options screen that appears, select the ‘Resize drive to fill unallocated space’ – otherwise your new hard disk won’t be set to use its full capacity – and ‘Set drive active’ options. Click Next then click Finish to start the operation, which could take several hours.

1

FIT YOUR NEW DISK Turn off and unplug your laptop, then remove the battery. Refer to the user manual if necessary for guidance on how to remove the hard disk caddy. It’s usually secured by one or two small screws or a sliding lock. On most caddies, four screws secure the disk into the caddy, either on the sides or the base. Others clip together to form a six-sided box, and it may not be obvious how to open them. Check for screws first, then look for a place at either end to insert the blade of a blunt knife or screwdriver and work the caddy open as shown in the screen on the right. You’ll need to re-use the caddy, so be careful not to damage it. The old disk should now be free. Remove your new one from the external enclosure if used and fit it to your laptop’s drive caddy, remembering to transfer any adaptors for IDE drives. Carefully replace the caddy in your laptop and make sure that your hard disk is making a proper connection with the laptop’s drive connectors.

1

2

2

Tip Remember to transfer any old adaptors from your old hard disk or you’ll be unable to fit the new drive.

¯õõ

INSTALL WINDOWS If you cloned your old disk, your computer should now boot from the new drive exactly as before. If everything works, you can fit your old disk in your external drive enclosure, format it and use it as a portable drive. If you’re creating a new installation, then you’ll need to prepare your new disk by booting

3

3

from your manufacturer’s restore CD or installing an operating system (see page 22 for Windows XP, page 26 for Vista and page 32 for Windows 7). Once your new installation is up and running, restore any data that you need from your old drive or other backup. Keep the backup safe until you’re certain that you no longer need it and that your new drive is running reliably.

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

Testing and troubleshooting Laptop hard disks If your computer won’t recognise your new hard disk, you may need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions to enter the BIOS and change the hard disk settings. Any manual settings for the old disk probably won’t suit the new one, so use the Auto option instead. If your disk appears the same size as the old one, your disk-cloning program hasn’t successfully resized the partition. You may be able to do this manually. If not, visit www.sysresccd.org, download the rescue CD image and burn it to a CD. Boot your system from this and use QTParted (available from http://qtparted. sourceforge.net) to resize the partition. If your disk looks smaller than it should be, you may not have created a large enough partition when installing the OS. In Windows XP or Vista, right-click on My Computer and select Manage and Disk Management under Storage. Create a new partition to make the remaining space available as a second drive, or use QTParted to extend the current one.

µ

Don’t force your new disk into your laptop. If it won’t fit, double-check that it has the same interface and dimensions as the old one and that you’ve mounted it the correct way up in the disk caddy. You also need to check that you’ve transferred any adaptor from the old disk’s IDE pins, that you’ve re-assembled the caddy correctly and that the screw heads are flush with the case. Only insert a new hard disk with gentle pressure. If you’ve successfully cloned your old disk to the new one, your computer should appear almost unchanged. You may notice that Windows starts a little more quickly and that other disk-intensive operations are also a little faster. Whichever method you used, open My Computer and make sure that the size of drive C: corresponds to the formatted capacity of the new drive. This is normally around 90 to 95 per cent of the disk’s nominal capacity. For example, a formatted 250GB disk should appear as a 232GB drive.

If you’re having trouble getting your new hard disk to work in Windows, look on the disk manufacturer’s website for helpful troubleshooting information

101

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades UPGRADE TIME

Upgrading your laptop’s memory

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? More memory gives your PC the ability to run more applications, makes Windows easier to use and cuts down on hard disk activity, therefore increasing battery life.

CAN I UPGRADE?

IT’S COMMON TO find laptops – particularly older models – with 1GB of memory or less. Many have integrated graphics processors that reduce the RAM available to Windows, as they use main memory instead of their own dedicated RAM. In this type of system, Windows must use the hard disk as an overflow when it runs out of memory. This is undesirable in a portable computer as its hard disk is comparatively slow and using it intensively reduces battery life. For as little as £20 including VAT, however, you could add 2GB of RAM to your laptop, revitalising its performance. Because space is at a premium inside laptops, they use physically smaller memory modules than those found in desktop PCs. Desktops use DIMM modules, while notebooks use the far more compact SODIMMs. That aside, laptop memory is much like desktop memory, with the same collection of technologies in use.

There are two main memory types you’re likely to encounter: DDR and DDR2. These aren’t compatible, so it’s essential you understand which type your laptop uses before buying more. Notebooks built in 2002 or earlier are likely to use SDRAM memory running at 66MHz, 100MHz or 133MHz. It’s now difficult to buy SDRAM SODIMMs, and you should replace the laptop rather than spend money upgrading it. Laptops made between 2002 and 2004 will probably use DDR memory. Such laptops require PC2100 or PC2700 DDR memory, but some high-end models may use faster PC3200 modules. Your manual or the manufacturer’s website should tell you what speed to buy. You can also search for your model on some memory manufacturers’ websites, such as www.crucial.com/uk. Intel-based laptops built after 2004 may use DDR2 memory, available in PC2-3200, PC2-4200,

2007-PRESENT Fitting new memory will be easy.

2003-2006 Fitting new memory will be easy.

NOTCH Different memory types aren’t compatible with each other. A notch in each module prevents their use in the wrong type of slot and ensures that they’re aligned correctly.

STICKER Most memory modules are marked with information about their speed and capacity.

PRE-2003 You should be able to fit new memory, but you’ll struggle with very old laptops that use SDRAM.

DDR3 SODIMM Only the newest, high-end laptops use DDR3.

¯õä

DDR2 SODIMM Most laptop computers built in the past four years use DDR2 memory. DDR2 SODIMMs appear almost identical to DDR memory, but the notch is 2mm closer to the module’s centre and it’s not compatible with DDR.

DDR SODIMM Laptop DDR SODIMMs have 100 connecting pins on each side, making a total of 200. Only older laptops built before 2004 are likely to use this type of memory.

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

PC2-5300 or PC2-6400 speeds. Only recent AMD-based notebooks with a Turion 64 X2 processor use DDR2 memory. Some of the very latest laptops use DDR3 memory, which is currently available in only PC3-8500 speed from most manufacturers. Look in the documentation for the correct speed to buy.

CHOOSING LAPTOP MEMORY To be sure you buy compatible memory, we recommend that you use the configuration tools available on the websites of many big memory manufacturers, as discussed in the Compatibility Checklist on the right. Most online stores offer a compatibility guarantee if you select your memory upgrade in this way. It’s fine to install faster memory than your laptop originally had – as long as it supports it – but bear in mind that you should buy memory of the same speed as any existing RAM that you’re not going to replace. This is because faster memory could make your laptop crash or refuse to boot. It’s worth checking the label on your existing memory to find out the size and type of modules that are installed. For increased performance, some laptops operate their DDR or DDR2 memory in dual-channel mode. This requires two identical memory modules, so replace both existing modules when upgrading. Other laptops may have built-in memory, which can’t be removed or upgraded, and one accessible memory slot. Some ultra-portables use tiny Micro DIMM modules of DDR or DDR2 memory. Standard SODIMMs are too big to fit these systems.

INSTALLATION Laptop memory should be easy to install, provided you can readily access your computer’s memory slots. Refer to your laptop’s manual or its manufacturer’s website for details of how many accessible slots there are. Only remove screws that give you access to the computer’s memory, and keep them in a safe place, such as a mug or glass. Memory is sensitive to static electricity and should be handled with care. Before you start, and occasionally while you’re working, touch the unpainted part of a radiator to discharge static build-up. Handle modules by the edges of their circuit board and never touch the chips or their connection pins. Only insert them with gentle force to avoid damage.

✔

MEMORY USE

✔

MEMORY SLOTS

✔

MEMORY TYPE

You can get an idea of Windows’ memory use by pressing Ctrl-Shift-Esc to run Task Manager on XP and Vista. If you need more memory, there will be tell-tale signs in everyday use. Long program loading times, extensive hard disk activity and slow-downs in Windows are all indications of low memory.

Most laptops have one or two memory slots under the keyboard or behind a cover on the base. If none is empty, you can upgrade only by swapping existing modules for highercapacity equivalents. Don’t buy more memory than your computer can handle. The 32-bit versions of Windows can cope with 3.3GB. The 64-bit versions of the OS can handle more than the maximum amount of memory supported by all current laptops.

Before buying your memory modules, find out your computer’s memory type from its manual or the manufacturer’s website, or use the configuration tools at a memory manufacturer website such as www.crucial.com/ uk or www.kingston.com/uk. If your model isn’t listed, try the System Scanner tool on Crucial’s website. If all else fails, check the information sticker on an existing module.

103

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

HOW TO…

Fit laptop memory 1

REMOVE THE MEMORY COVER Shut down your laptop fully, making sure that you don’t enter Windows’ Standby or Hibernate modes. Disconnect the power supply and turn the laptop on its back. Lay it on a towel to avoid scratching the lid. If your laptop’s memory slots are on its underside, locate the panel that covers them. This is sometimes labelled with text or with a memory icon, but is often unmarked. Remove the screws securing the panel and pull it open. Large panels may give you access to other components on the base of your laptop. Don’t touch anything else, particularly any heatsinks, which may be very hot. If your laptop’s memory is beneath its keyboard, you’ll need to remove this first. If you have the manual, check for instructions on how to do this without causing any damage. Otherwise, you’ll have to work out how your keyboard is secured. First look for screws holding the keyboard to the computer’s base. These may be covered with a trim panel that simply clips into place. The keyboard is often held down by catches or lugs along its base and possibly its sides. These need to be prised open before it can be lifted away. The keyboard’s fragile ribbon cable will remain connected to your laptop. Take care not to twist, stretch or tear this as you lay the keyboard on the wrist rest. In many laptops, the memory slots are covered by an additional plastic or metal sheet that needs to be lifted out of the way. If you’re replacing any memory modules already fitted to your computer, release them one at a time by pressing outwards on the catches at either end of the memory slot. Each SODIMM should spring upwards, enabling you to grip it by the edges and pull it from the slot.

1

FIT THE MEMORY MODULES With the memory slots exposed, open the anti-static packaging of the first memory module. Note the position of the module’s notch so you can align it correctly with the slot. If you’re fitting two modules and your slots are stacked on top of each other, fill the bottom slot first. Fit the module’s connecting edge into the memory slot as shown, checking that the notch is aligned correctly. Without using force, make sure the SODIMM’s connecting edge is located snugly before pushing on the opposite edge. The module should pivot until it lies parallel with the slot and the catches engage, clicking into place.

2

Tip Modules should click gently into place. If they don’t, you probably haven’t aligned the module correctly.

104

2

3

CHECK THAT MEMORY IS INSTALLED Once you’ve installed the first memory module, use the same method for any others. If you’re working on the base of your laptop, fit the external panel by engaging any lugs. If you had to remove the keyboard, don’t twist or trap its ribbon cable as you replace it. Engage any lugs or catches as you lower the keyboard into place. Replace any screws and trim panels you had to remove to gain access. Lock the battery into place before plugging in the power supply connector and turning on the laptop. Look on the POST screen or enter the BIOS utility and check it shows the total memory you expect.

3

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

Testing and troubleshooting Laptop memory reconnected everything you had to move for the upgrade and didn’t dislodge anything else inside your laptop. If it still won’t boot, check that you’ve added memory in pairs, if necessary, and that the modules are rated fast enough for your system. If you still have problems and you added more than one memory module, try powering on the laptop after removing one module. If it boots, power it off again and swap the module you removed to see if one is faulty. It may be that the BIOS displays the wrong total for installed memory, in which case check that the memory sticks are installed correctly. If the total displayed is less than you have inserted, check that you didn’t add more memory than your laptop supports. If the memory speed displayed by Memtest86+ or your BIOS shows a slower speed than you expect, refer to your manual for instructions on how to enter the BIOS and manually set the correct memory speed. Windows can’t resume if you entered Standby or Hibernate mode before you upgraded, but it recovers if you discard the hibernation file when prompted.

µ

Once you’ve installed more memory, you should see a marked improvement in your laptop’s performance. You may notice from your first reboot that it loads Windows more quickly and is faster at performing regular tasks. If you fitted more RAM to speed up memory-intensive software such as an image-editing program, run the program to check its performance has improved. You should be able to open more photos before Windows starts to crawl. With more memory, it’s likely that your laptop will also make less intensive use of its hard disk. This may improve battery life. To be sure that your new memory is working correctly, visit www.memtest. org/#downiso and download a suitable version of the Memtest86+ utility. Boot from the floppy or CD-ROM that you create and leave Memtest86+ running for at least one complete pass. Memtest86+ will also display useful speed and configuration information that can help you identify problems with your upgrade. If your laptop refuses to boot, retrace your steps and make sure your memory is inserted correctly. Check that you

Make sure you don’t displace any other parts when upgrading

105

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades UPGRADE TIME

Fitting an optical drive to your laptop

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? Being able to write DVDs and CDs when you’re on the move can be really helpful, especially for impromptu backups. If you want to watch HD movies, you’ll need to add a Blu-ray drive.

CAN I UPGRADE?

A FAST, MODERN DVD writer is particularly useful in a laptop computer. You can use it to back up large amounts of data on to DVD-R or to transfer files to another PC via rewritable discs. A simple read-only DVD-ROM drive lets you watch films on long journeys, but with a DVD writer you can also burn your own home movies. Many recent laptops can write only to CD, and some have no optical drive at all. As laptops are generally harder to upgrade than desktop PCs, you’d be forgiven for thinking that if you’re not happy with your optical drive, you’re stuck with it. In fact, there are many ways to upgrade. You could buy an external drive that connects via USB or FireWire. However, in many laptops you can fit a new internal drive, which is a neater solution. Modern laptop optical drives are a standard shape and size and have screw-holes in specific places. Laptops use different methods to secure the drive, though, such as rails or a proprietary enclosure. It’s important that you buy the right

drive and have any accessories needed to fit it. If you have an old or ultra-portable laptop without a built-in optical drive, it’s unlikely to have the necessary slot for one. On some budget models, however, there may be a slot for an optical drive that’s covered by a blanking plate; check in the manual or on the manufacturer’s website whether this is accessible and that you have or can obtain the necessary mounting rails and screws. Some laptop optical drives sit in a proprietary removable drive bay. The entire module is designed to be swapped with another own-brand drive module. However, some proprietary modules, such as those used by certain Dell Latitude laptops, merely enclose a standard drive. You may be able to open the module and replace the drive. Computers that are more than around three years old may not physically be able to accommodate a modern laptop optical drive. Some older laptops can be upgraded, but only with extensive disassembly.

2007-PRESENT You’ll be able to upgrade your optical drive easily, but HD movies will require dedicated graphics.

2003-2006 You’ll be able to upgrade your optical drive easily, but HD movies will require dedicated graphics.

PRE-2003 You’ll be able to add a DVD or CD writer, but there’s little point adding a Blu-ray drive as your laptop won’t be able to play HD movies.

FASCIA This trim is usually secured with simple clips. You’ll need to transfer the fascia from your old drive to the new one, but not all drives and fascias are compatible (see the Compatibility Checklist opposite).

DIMENSIONS Desktop drives are far too big to fit in a laptop. Slimline laptop drives are much thinner and lighter, and should fit in most recent laptop PCs.

INTERFACE There’s only one connector, which carries both data and power. Older laptops use PATA, but modern ones have SATA.

¯õØ

MOUNTING RAILS These are often essential for mounting an optical drive, and suitable ones should be supplied with the laptop chassis. In most cases, they’ll be fitted to your existing optical drive.

SCREWS An optical drive should come with screws for attaching mounting rails. Alternatively, you could reuse those from your old drive. The wrong screws may snag in your laptop or destroy the screw-holes’ thread.

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades GETTING STARTED To make sure a new drive fits inside your laptop, we recommend removing the existing drive and checking its shape, dimensions and interface. The BIOSes of some laptops, such as certain Dell Inspirons, support only certain optical drives. Contact the manufacturer to find out which models you can use with your laptop. They may provide a BIOS update that supports more drives. Most optical drives have a clip-on plastic fascia that matches your laptop. You’ll need to transfer this to a new drive, but not all fascias have the same layout. The eject button is 40mm from the right-hand side of most modern units, but an old drive’s fascia may be different. Even if the button is in the right place, the fascia mounts may not fit. Your original drive’s fascia is most likely to fit a new drive if both are modern and made by the same manufacturer. Drives and fascias made since 2004 are more likely to be compatible, but a slot-loading drive needs a different fascia to a tray-loader. You can prise off your existing fascia and take it to a shop for comparison. You can use a drive with no fascia, but it will look scruffy and be fiddly to eject. We recommend upgrading to a DVD writer, as these are the best value. Most new laptop DVD writers can create write-once and rewritable 4.7GB single-layer DVDs and write-once two-layer 8.5GB DVDs, as well as write-once and rewritable CDs. There are two competing two-layer formats: DVD-R DL (dual layer) and DVD+R DL (double layer). If possible, choose a drive that supports both. Modern writers create single-layer discs at up to 8X and burn two-layer discs at up to 4X speeds. Buy the fastest your budget allows. If you buy a boxed drive, it’s likely to include software for viewing DVDs and burning CDs or DVDs, but this may not support older versions of Windows. If you have Windows 98 or Me, you’ll need drivers to recognise and use a DVD writer. OEM drives are cheaper, but most come without software. DVD playback software may not be compatible with old Windows versions. The free, open-source VLC player, available from www. videolan.org/vlc, isn’t officially supported by Windows Me and 98, but works in most cases. An old laptop with Windows 98 or Me may not be powerful enough to decode and play DVD movies. You can also add a Blu-ray drive, but these are very expensive and you’ll need a powerful laptop to play these HD movies.

INSTALLATION Replacing a laptop’s optical drive is usually easy, but check that your computer isn’t still under warranty. If it is, a failed drive should be covered for repair, while upgrading one yourself will probably invalidate any remaining cover. You should need only a small or medium crosshead screwdriver and a small flat-bladed one.

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST ✔

PHYSICAL FIT

✔

WINDOWS DRIVERS

✔

SOFTWARE

New slimline optical drives should measure 128x129x12.7mm and have a 50-pin slimline PATA socket. But certain laptops, particularly models more than three or four years old, may not adhere to these standards. If your current drive has a different interface, you may be able to buy an adaptor from a specialist such as www.mini-itx.com.

Windows XP Service Pack 2, Vista and 7 should automatically recognise your new optical drive, but older versions of Windows might not. You may need drivers to access all your drive’s functions, so buy one with suitable drivers for your operating system. Check for drivers and other utilities at the manufacturer’s website or third-party sites such as www.driverguide.com and www.driversplanet.com.

Unless you have Windows XP, Vista or 7 and you’ll only be writing CDs, you’ll need burning software. Boxed drives may come with utilities such as Ahead’s Nero, but recent software may not support versions of Windows before 2000. Ulead’s Burn.Now, from http:// tinyurl.com/6vqet, supports Windows 98 SE and Me. You’ll also need software to watch DVDs. 107

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

HOW TO…

Install a laptop optical drive INSTALL DRIVERS AND SOFTWARE If you need to install drivers for your new optical drive, you should do so according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Install the drivers before fitting the drive itself, unless instructed otherwise. You can also install any disc-burning and DVD-playback software before fitting the drive. Allow all installations to finish and make sure you’ve removed any optical disc from your existing drive before shutting down your laptop, and be careful not to enter hibernate or sleep modes. Once the PC is switched off, unplug it from the mains and remove its battery.

1

REMOVE THE EXISTING OPTICAL DRIVE The exact method for removing your laptop’s optical drive varies from model to model. Check your laptop’s manual or use the manufacturer’s website or helpline. Lists of laptop maintenance manuals and guides are available at http://tinyurl. com/y6r2jh and http://tinyurl.com/vdt7o. On most laptops, the drive is held in place by one or two screws directly beneath it on the underside, as shown in the picture on the right. Place your laptop upside down on a soft, dry cloth to avoid scratching the lid as you remove the screws, which may be unmarked or labelled with icons or text. Don’t undo anything you can’t positively identify, and keep screws in a safe place. Once released, pull on the drive to slide it out. You may need to grip its fascia with your fingernails, but don’t be tempted to pull on the disc-loading tray. You shouldn’t need to use much force; double-check that the drive is free if it doesn’t slide out easily. If your drive is fitted in a proprietary module, you may be able to dismantle the enclosure. This will invalidate its warranty. Some modules clip together, while others are held together by screws that may be hidden under labels. You’ll need to reuse the enclosure, so be careful not to break anything. Take notes or photos to help you reassemble it. Once you’ve opened the case, you should be able to pull the drive free from any proprietary connector.

1

2

2

Tip If you have some thread lock compound, apply a tiny amount to each drive rail screw to prevent them working loose over time.

¯õs

INSTALL YOUR NEW OPTICAL DRIVE Before fitting your new drive, you’ll have to replace its fascia with the one from your original drive. Use your fingernails or a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to prise the fascia off both drives, but

3

3

be careful not to break them. Provided the fascia layouts match, they should simply clip back on. In most cases, you’ll also need to transfer metal mounting rails between the drives. Note the rails’ exact position on your old drive before unscrewing them and fitting them to your new drive without over-tightening the screws. Once you’ve attached the correct fascia and, if necessary, screwed on any rail mounts, slide your new drive into your laptop and replace the screws or catches that secure it. If you’re replacing the drive in a proprietary module, reattach the connector board and any other mounts or connections before reassembling the module and refitting it to your notebook. Refit your laptop’s battery.

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

Testing and troubleshooting Laptop optical drives

TROUBLESHOOTING If you need to use significant force to reinsert your optical drive, check that you’ve fixed any mounting rails correctly and that the drive is the right way up. If your laptop doesn’t recognise your drive, make sure you followed the instructions to install any drivers for your operating system. If you didn’t previously have an optical drive, you may need to enter your BIOS to

enable support for one. Check your laptop’s manual or the manufacturer’s support website for instructions. You may find that an old or low-powered laptop can’t write discs at high speeds. For the best results, close any other applications that may be using memory or accessing your hard disk. Defragmenting your disk may help. In Windows 98 or Me, click Start then Run. Type defrag in the box that appears and click OK. In Windows XP, right-click on My Computer and select Manage. Select Disk Defragmenter from the list in the left-hand pane. If you’re having trouble playing DVDs using a software DVD decoder with Windows Media Player under Windows XP, Microsoft’s FAQ at http://support.microsoft. com/kb/306318 may help. If your playback software can’t access a DVD movie’s interactive content, you may need to use InterActual’s DVD player, often supplied on movie DVDs. You can download the latest version and view a series of troubleshooting FAQs on the InterActual site at http://tinyurl.com/yzpkkk.

µ

Once you’ve fitted your new optical drive and installed any drivers, it should be assigned a drive letter automatically. You’ll see it listed in My Computer or Windows Explorer. The easiest way to check that your new optical drive is working is to play a DVD movie or burn a disc.

Take care when handling your optical drive

109

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades UPGRADE TIME

Installing an expansion card

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? An internal expansion card is a neat way to make your wireless go faster or add new features, such as Bluetooth for connecting to mobile phones or 3G for wireless internet access everywhere.

JUST AS PCs have PCI Express expansion slots, so do most laptops. These are variously called Mini Card, Mini PCI-E and PCI Express Mini Card slots, but all are names for the same expansion card slot, which has a miniature PCI Express interface. Usually, you’ll find just one or two slots, and one may already be occupied by a WiFi card. However, there’s a variety of other add-in cards you can buy to install in a spare slot, including Bluetooth adaptors, 3G modems, solid-state disks, GPS receivers, TurboMemory modules and TV tuners.

ACCESS ALL AREAS All Mini PCI-E Cards are held in place by two screws. They don’t have clips at either side as memory modules do, but are just as easy to install (assuming you can access the slot inside your laptop). Most are 50mm tall, but some are around

half this height and fit into special half-height slots, such as the one in Dell’s Studio XPS 16. As with memory, you’ll probably find the Mini Card slots on the underside of your laptop, beneath a removable panel. However, some are located underneath the keyboard and are much harder to access. A word of warning, however. Any Mini Card that requires an antenna connection, such as a TV tuner, WiFi or Bluetooth dongle, won’t work unless your laptop has this antenna built in and ready to plug into the card. Even then, the connector must be compatible with the card that you buy, so check before buying a new card. It isn’t possible to add antennas if your laptop doesn’t already have them. Mobile broadband modems are a special case, as these require your laptop to have a SIM card slot as well as the correct antenna.

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT You’ll have a modern laptop with the latest expansion slot, so an upgrade will be easy.

MINI PCI-E CARD These are secured to the laptop’s motherboard with two screws.

2003-2006 You should have an expansion slot in your laptop, making an upgrade easy.

PRE-2003 Your laptop may be too old to have an expansion slot, so you’ll need to check inside the case before upgrading.

SLOTS You must install a Mini PCI-E Card the right way round. You’ll be able to work out the correct orientation by lining up the notch with the slot in your laptop.

¯¯õ

MINI PCI CARD These are found on older laptops, but WiFi cards have the same antenna connectors as more modern Mini PCI-E Cards.

CHAPTER 4

µ

Laptop upgrades

Draft-N WiFi cards have three antenna connections, so make sure you connect them to the correct cables. If your laptop has two wires, connect them to the Mini Card sockets marked 1 and 2, leaving socket 3 disconnected

Furthermore, Mini PCI-E Cards can be hard to find, as few retailers sell them. Dell is happy for its users to upgrade their laptops with Mini Cards, which it sells directly on its website (www.dell. co.uk). The company even provides full installation instructions in the online Support section. Don’t confuse Mini PCI-E Cards with older Mini PCI Cards. While they sound similar (as do the desktop PCI and PCI Express standards), the two are completely incompatible. Mini PCI Cards are more than twice the size of Mini PCI-E Cards and tend to be found in older laptops built before 2003. If you have a laptop with a Mini PCI Card slot but without WiFi, you can buy an inexpensive WiFi card such as Intel’s PRO/Wireless 2200BG from eBay for about £10.

which equates to a real-world speed of between 50 and 80Mbit/s. Another benefit of using Draft-N is a longer signal range. If you want to be able to use your laptop in a far-flung room of the house but find that it can’t maintain or even establish a strong wireless connection with your router, an upgrade to a Draft-N Mini PCI-E Card could solve the problem. Your laptop will need three antenna cables (black, grey and white) if a Draft-N card is to work properly. However, we’ve successfully installed Draft-N cards in laptops with two wires (usually

One of the most useful upgrades for your laptop is to add WiFi and Bluetooth capabilities. Most laptops already have WiFi built-in, but older models may support only the 802.11b and g standards. If your wireless router supports Draft-N, you could upgrade your laptop and more than double the connection speed between it and other Draft-Nenabled computers, as well as computers with wired networking, in your home. The 802.11g standard has a theoretical maximum speed of 54Mbit/s, but in practice this is usually more like 20Mbit/s. The later Draft-N WiFi standard has a theoretical speed of 270-300Mbit/s,

µ

WIFI AND BLUETOOTH

A new Draft-N Mini Card can massively boost your laptop’s wireless performance

111

CHAPTER 4

µ

Laptop upgrades

Before shelling out on a 3G Mini Card, check that your laptop has a SIM card slot available, as this is always separate from the modem itself

µ

black and grey) and still been able to attain the speak to your laptop manufacturer to see if you same speeds mentioned above. If your laptop has can buy one directly. You may find models listed two wires, connect them to the Mini Card sockets on eBay for around £20, but these are often marked 1 and 2, leaving socket 3 disconnected. dual-function cards with 802.11g WiFi as well. Bluetooth is useful for a variety of tasks and is 3G MINI CARDS commonly used to transfer and synchronise files You can add a 3G modem (also known as a WWAN – including calendar appointments, emails and Mini Card or HSDPA modem) only if your laptop contact details – with mobile devices such as has the appropriate antennas and a SIM card slot. PDAs and mobile phones. Other uses include If either is missing, the printing wirelessly to modem won’t work. If your Bluetooth-equipped laptop does have both, you printers, connecting a can buy a 3G Mini PCI-E wireless Bluetooth mouse Card. It’s advisable to ask or keyboard and listening your manufacturer if you’re to music wirelessly using unsure about compatibility Bluetooth headphones. and, if possible, buy a Mini If you plan to install a Card from your laptop’s Bluetooth Mini Card, make manufacturer, as you’re sure that your laptop has a more likely to receive a blue antenna cable to plug better level of support if into the card. you have problems getting Unfortunately, it’s not things to work. possible to buy a single Mini The benefit of an internal PCI-E Card with both 3G modem is a more stable Draft-N WiFi and Bluetooth connection, since the support at the moment. If antennas are much larger you’re after a Draft-N Mini than those in a USB dongle. Card, Intel’s PRO Wireless Conveniently, as with all Mini LAN 4965AGN is a good Cards, it also means nothing choice for £30 including VAT sticks out of your laptop, so from www.dabs.com. you don’t have to remove Bluetooth Mini Cards are You need to configure the Windows swap file to the adaptor when you travel. hard to find, so it pays to use the hard disk, not the SSD ¯¯ä

CHAPTER 4

Laptop upgrades

HOW TO…

Fit a Mini Card Locate the cover for the Mini Card slot and remove it. It may be necessary to remove the keyboard to access the slot.

£

If there are multiple slots, make sure you install your Mini Card in a slot that’s close to the antenna cables. Push the card into the slot and tighten the two screws to hold it in place.

Ó

After you’ve screwed the Mini Card into its slot, connect the appropriate antenna wires, ensuring that they remain out of the way of the cover of the card.

Î

Replace the cover and screws, and turn on your laptop. Finally, install the appropriate drivers and software.

{

£

Ó

Î

{

Unlike traditional hard disks, solid-state disks have no moving parts, which makes them more robust than fragile mechanical disks. There are two different types, and one is faster than the other, so be careful which you buy. Look for a single-layer cell (SLC) SSD, as these are faster and last longer than multi-layer cell (MLC) models. They’re more widely available than other types of Mini PCI-E Card, and range in capacity from 8GB to 256GB. They’re not cheap, though; prices per gigabyte vary from £2.50 to around £5. Installing an operating system and programs on an SSD will reduce the time your laptop takes to boot, and should make Windows feel more

responsive. You can then use your laptop’s existing hard disk to store your data. The flash memory used in MLC SSDs can be written to 10,000 times (and SLC 100,000 times), and the controller chip ensures that the capacity is used evenly to prolong its life. Most SSDs should outlast your laptop. Still, you should configure Windows’ swap file to use your laptop’s existing disk. Press Windows-Break and choose Advanced System Settings. Click Settings in the Performance section and then choose the Advanced tab. Click Change… in the Virtual memory section and untick ‘Automatically manage paging file size for all drives’. Select the drive letter of the disk on which you want to store the page file and click Set.

SOLID-STATE DISKS

Tip Remember to reconnect the antenna cables, otherwise your new wireless device will suffer from poor reception.

113

CHAPTER 5

Networking

CHAPTER 5

Networking IN THIS CHAPTER Creating a home network

££È

Installing a wireless router

£Óä

Setting up a secure wireless network £ÓÓ

114

Installing a wireless adaptor

£ÓÈ

Adding a network storage device

£Îä

CHAPTER 5

Networking

ith so much data going digital, PCs are now responsible for the creation and storage of much of our music, photos and videos. Rather than leave it languishing on your hard disk, though, a home network can let you free your media and share it everywhere. In this chapter we’ll show you how to set up a secure wireless network to share your internet connection, add shared storage and stream music, videos and photos to your TV.

7

´

115

CHAPTER 5

Networking

Creating a home network

CHOOSING YOUR KIT When installing a network at home, there are three main types of technology available: wireless, wired (also called Ethernet, which is built into all PCs) and powerline, which uses your home’s power cables as a wired network. All three types of network are compatible with each other. A reliable home network could use a mix of different technologies, playing to each one’s strengths. The table opposite shows you what each type of networking technology is good for, but we also explain them in more detail below. WIRELESS NETWORKING Wireless networking, or WiFi, uses a wireless router and is a convenient way to connect computers and other devices without having to run cables everywhere. The downside is that it provides the slowest connections, which can also be unreliable. e. For that reason, wireless is best suited for mobile e devices. For example, if you want to use your laptop anywhere in your house or garden, wireless is the best choice. You can use a USB adaptor to make any PC wireless. This is a cheap and efficient way of connecting a computer to your network, but unfortunately the further it is from your router,, the slower the speed of the connection will be. For that reason, we recommend that you use wireless only with PCs that aren’t going to be doing a lot of file sharing. ¯¯Ø

WIRED (ETHERNET) Ethernet is technically the best way to network your computers at home, as it uses dedicated cabling to carry your data. Networks are built by connecting one end of a cable to a device and the other end to a network switch. There are two types of Ethernet generally available. The most common type (10/100Mbit/s) provides speeds of up to 100Mbit/s. Gigabit Ethernet, which runs at 1,000Mbit/s, is becoming more common and is backwards-compatible with slower Ethernet networks. To run at full Gigabit Ethernet speed, you’ll need all your devices, cables and a network switch to support it. A wireless router contains a network switch, but most of these support only the 10/100Mbit/s standard. It’s possible to upgrade to the faster standard by buying a dedicated Gigabit Ethernet switch (a five-port model will cost around £20) and connecting a cross-over Ethernet cable to connect one port on the new switch to a spare port on the router. To achieve Gigabit speed, you then need to connect all your Gigabit Ethernet devices to ports on the new switch. This upgrade is worthwhile only if you’re going to be copying a lot of large files over the network. The problem with Ethernet is that, to use it all around your home, you have to install dedicated wiring. This is potentially expensive and difficult to do. For that reason, Ethernet is best suited to being used by devices that are close to your router. WIRED (POWERLINE) If you don’t want to wire your house up for Ethernet, powerline networking is a great

alternative. This uses your home’s existing power

µ

THE IDEA OF creating your own network may sound hideously complex – and a little boring – but a home network could be the most useful bit of technology you’ll have. Once all your computers are connected together, you’ll find it easy to share files, printers and even your broadband internet connection. What’s more, lots of new devices have networking built in. So whether you want to browse the internet using your mobile or stream video, audio and pictures to the media player connected to your TV, a home network is the only way to go. If you think the idea sounds complex, don’t worry. Setting up a network is a lot easier than it used to be. In this chapter, we’ll explain what kit you need to get your home networked, how to configure your network and how to set up a secure and reliable wireless network. We’ll also show you how to share your files using a network-attached storage device.

Powerline networking adaptors plug into your power sockets and use your electricity cables as a network. The ports on the back are for connecting Ethernet devices

CHAPTER 5

Networking

lines as network cables, so you get all the benefits of a wired network without having to do any rewiring. The technology works by using network adaptors that plug into your power sockets. You then simply connect any devices that you want to use into these adaptors using Ethernet cables. There are two competing powerline networking standards: HomePlug and UPA DHC. Both standards have several versions that run at different speeds. Although the current maximum speed for both is 200Mbit/s, you’re likely to get transfer speeds of only around 60Mbit/s. There’s little to choose between the two standards, but UPA DHC products aren’t widely available and are comparatively expensive. For that reason, we recommend HomePlug AV products, such as Solwise’s NET-PL-200AV-PIGGY, which costs £37 per adaptor. These have ‘passthrough’ power sockets, which means you can use the adaptors as a normal socket as well.

GETTING STARTED Armed with this information and the diagram of a typical home network on page 118, you should have a pretty good idea of how each device in your home will be connected, so it’s just a matter of putting your network together. The first thing you should do is buy a wireless router, if you don’t already have one. These devices are designed to share your broadband connection with multiple computers, but they’re an essential investment even if you don’t have a fast internet connection. The reason is twofold: first, wireless routers provide both wireless and Ethernet networking; second, a router takes a lot of hassle out of networking. For example, every wireless router has a built-in Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol (DHCP) server. This may sound like a horrific bit of jargon, but what it means is that any computers connected to it will automatically be given an IP address. In layman’s terms, that means they’ll just work.

An IP address can be thought of as your computer’s unique postal address on the network. Each computer has to have one in order to exchange information with other computers on the network. Without DHCP, every device you connect to your network has to be given an address manually. With DHCP, this is done automatically in the background. When choosing a wireless router, you need to make sure you get one that will work with your broadband connection. If you have cable internet from Virgin Media, you’ll need to buy a cable internet router, which has an Ethernet port for connecting to the cable internet modem that comes with the service. If you subscribe to ADSL broadband, you’ll need an ADSL router. These have built-in ADSL modems and connect directly to your telephone line in place of the modem with which you were originally supplied. We recommend that you buy an 802.11n router. This is the latest standard of wireless networking and has speeds of up to 300Mbit/s, although in practice you’re likely to get slower speeds. For more on choosing a wireless router, see the guide on page 120.

PLUGGING IN YOUR KIT With a wireless router taking care of a lot of the administration of a network, your main jobs are configuring the router with your internet settings, setting up a secure wireless network and plugging in any wired devices that you want to use. Our step-by-step walkthrough on page 123 explains how to configure the router and connect wireless devices, but before you do that you should connect your wired devices. This is a surprisingly simply job. First, you need to plan where you want to put your wireless router. If you’ve got broadband, it should be situated near the point where your internet connection enters the house, which is probably where your modem is currently located.

Tip

NETWORK CONNECTIONS COMPARED CONNECTION TYPE

QUOTED SPEED

TYPICAL SPEED

USEFUL PURPOSES

1Gbit/s

850Mbit/s

Large file transfers

Fast Ethernet

100Mbit/s

85Mbit/s

Streaming HD video and file sharing

802.11n wireless

300Mbit/s

50Mbit/s (20Mbit/s at 25m)

Streaming compressed video and music; web browsing

Powerline networking

200Mbit/s

60Mbit/s

Streaming HD video and file sharing

Gigabit Ethernet

Before you buy any kit, plan your network. That way, you’ll know exactly what you need to buy and how you’ll have to install it.

117

CHAPTER 5

Networking If you have a cable internet connection with Virgin Media, you should connect an Ethernet cable from the router’s WAN port to the Ethernet port on the cable modem. If you have ADSL, unplug your existing modem and plug the RJ11 telephone cable into the WAN port on the router. The other end of this telephone cable should be connected to an ADSL filter, which in turn is plugged into the telephone socket. If you have any computers or other devices close to your router, you should connect them via Ethernet cables. If you don’t have any cables, buy Cat5e Patch Cables. These are available from Maplin (www.maplin.co.uk) in lengths of between 50cm and 5m, for £4.49 to £7.99 including VAT. To connect them, simply plug one end into the network port on the back of your device and the other end into a spare port on the back of the router. We’ll assume that, if you want to connect devices located further away from the router, you’re not prepared to rewire your home with Ethernet cable. For any devices that won’t move, we recommend using powerline networking. To get this working, you need to have a spare power socket near the router into which you can plug a powerline networking adaptor. A wall socket is the

best option, as powerline networking’s speed is affected if you use a multi-way extension socket and won’t work at all if you plug an adaptor into a surge-protector. Plug one end of an Ethernet cable into the powerline adaptor’s socket and the other into a spare port on the back of the router. To connect devices around the rest of your home, you simply need to plug one powerline adaptor into a wall socket near the device you want to network, then connect the device to the adaptor using an Ethernet cable. For security, powerline networking devices can encrypt traffic. How you achieve this will depend on the technology and adaptors you’re using. You will either need to use some software or push a button on the front of an adaptor. Check the instructions that came with your adaptors for more details. You can now follow the instructions for configuring your wireless router and connecting your wireless devices.

GOING ONLINE With your network connected and configured properly, you should find that you can now browse the internet from any connected device simply by starting your web browser.

THE WELL-CONNECTED HOME: A TYPICAL NETWORK

PC Ethernet Powerline network adaptor

Mobile phone using WiFi

9

8

7 *

PC Laptop using WiFi

6

5

4

Internet

3

2

1

0

#

Wireless router

Broadband Ethernet

Powerline network adaptor

¯¯s

CHAPTER 5

Networking A home network provides more than the ability to share your internet connection, however; you can also share files and printers. There’s detailed information in Windows’ help files that you can follow to configure your network shares, and sharing your printer over the network is also easy with the help of these files.

GETTING SECURE With all your computers connected, there’s just one final thing to consider: security. Your

wireless router has a built-in firewall that will protect all your computers from being attacked, but it won’t stop malware being downloaded and installed. Once installed on one PC, malware is free to attack all your other computers over the network. To prevent this, you should make sure that every single computer has a security suite installed on it. We currently recommend Kaspersky Internet Security 2010, which costs just £35 including VAT for three PCs. For more information about network security, see page 121.

Breaking the bottleneck Can wireless keep up with broadband speeds? vendors, has seen a massive growth in the number of 5GHz products. Manufacturers are also getting better at making products that don’t cause as much interference, and the Wi-Fi Alliance requires that any 802.11n routers it certifies have to have channel bonding turned off. While this reduces theoretical speeds, it increases wireless reliability. WiFi looks likely to remain the dominant form of networking, especially as it is being built into an increasingly wide range of products. However, the best way to run a reliable home network at the speed you require is to use a mixture of technologies.

µ

With faster broadband connections becoming more common, you may be wondering whether wireless networks can keep up with these services. One problem is caused by 802.11n and its channel bonding, which uses two wireless channels to double its throughput. This is like running two wireless networks, doubling the amount of network traffic and, thus, interference. This in turn reduces the reliability and speed of wireless networks. While most manufacturers claim that wireless is fast enough regardless of these issues and quote ‘real world’ speeds of 150Mbit/s, we’ve never seen this speed in our labs. That doesn’t mean that it’s game over for WiFi, though. The general consensus is that 5GHz technology (found in dual-band routers) is the way forward. Unlike traditional 2.4GHz networks, 5GHz doesn’t suffer the same level of interference and provides more wireless channels, so more networks can coexist in the same area. Wireless chip manufacturers such as Broadcom are starting to push the technology. Richard Ybarra, technical marketing engineer at Broadcom, told us that “most Broadcom chips are both 2.4GHz and 5GHz”. The Wi-Fi Alliance, which certifies interoperability between different

Wireless technology should remain the dominant networking standard for some time

119

CHAPTER 5

Networking UPGRADE TIME

Installing a wireless router

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? If you have a broadband internet connection, a wireless router makes it easy to share it with all the computers in your house. If you have a laptop, you’ll enjoy the freedom that wireless gives you.

CAN I UPGRADE? 2007-PRESENT It will be easy for your computer to talk to a wireless router.

2003-2006 It will be easy for your computer to talk to a wireless router.

PRE-2003 Windows 98 users should be able to get wireless drivers, but those with older computers will struggle with driver support. Computers can still be connected via a wired Ethernet port, though.

¯äõ

YOUR BROADBAND CONNECTION isn’t limited to serving just one PC. A wireless router makes it easy to connect all the computers in your home, without lots of cables cluttering the place up. Wireless sharing is an easy way to make the most of your broadband connection, and although it also raises security issues, a well-configured wireless network can actually make your PCs safer, thanks to the router’s built-in firewall. Not only can all your computers access the internet at once, but setting up a wireless router also helps you to take advantage of the wireless capabilities now built into other devices such as printers, cameras, PDAs and internet telephone handsets. Using a wireless router isn’t the only way to share an internet connection, but it’s definitely the most convenient. Using a wired router, you’d have to trail chunky Ethernet cables all over your house. With similar wiring, you could do without a router and use Windows Internet Connection Sharing to turn one of your PCs into an internet gateway. But with this setup, the other computers would have constant internet access only if you kept the gateway machine switched on, which could be an expensive waste of electricity. Installing a WiFi router solves all these problems, and it’s easy to do. Over the next few pages we’ll show you how to set up your router and connect all your PCs to it so that the whole family can surf the net in safety.

CHOOSING A WIRELESS ROUTER A wireless router creates a network that all your PCs can use to access a single broadband connection. This may sound as if it’s going to be complicated, but it’s really very straightforward. The router acts as a junction box that joins your network together. The router connects to your broadband line through a modem (which may be built into the router, or could be your existing cable modem, for example), and each of your PCs connects to the router either wirelessly or, if it happens to be in the same place as the router, through one of its wired ports. For a wired connection, the PC must have an Ethernet adaptor, which most modern systems do, often built into the motherboard. To connect wirelessly, a PC must have a wireless network adaptor. Most laptops now have one built in, and they’re easy to add to desktop PCs; we’ll show you exactly how to do it on page 126.

The kind of router you should buy depends on your broadband connection and your existing hardware. If you have a cable modem with an Ethernet port – most do – you can use this with your new router. If you have any kind of ADSL modem – that means any broadband connection via a phone line, rather than a cable installation such as Virgin Media – we recommend that you bin it and buy a router with an ADSL modem built in, as it’s easier to set up and costs hardly any more. Next, you need to consider which wireless standard you want your router (and all your wireless adaptors) to support. It’s important that all your devices conform to a common standard, of which there are several. The faster the standard your kit supports, the better the speed you’ll get. This is most significant when you use your wireless network to transfer data between your own PCs, because this can potentially reach much higher speeds than internet access. The 802.11b and 802.11g WiFi standards use frequencies in the 2.4GHz band. The older ‘b’ standard runs at 11 megabits per second (Mbit/s), while the newer ‘g’ standard runs at 54Mbit/s. Both standards use the 2.4GHz radio band. 802.11b is now outdated and there’s no point in trying to buy a router that uses this standard. 802.11g routers are widely available and backwards-compatible with 802.11b devices. These are perfect if you just want to share an internet connection. Look for an 802.11g MIMO router, as this will help improve range and throughput. The newest network standard, 802.11n, offers theoretical throughputs of up to 300Mbit/s. After much deliberation, it’s finally a fully ratified standard, and devices based on 802.11n are now commonly available. All the devices that use this standard should be compatible with each other. Look for the WiFi logo on the box to make sure. 802.11n can operate in both the 2.4GHz and 5GHz radio bands, but 2.4GHz 802.11n is the most common. This version is backwards-compatible with 802.11g and 802.11b, so you’ll be able to run your old devices easily. There is one other wireless network standard, 802.11a, which runs at 54Mbit/s, like 802.11g. Instead of the 2.4GHz frequency band, however, it uses frequencies clustered around 5GHz. Because of this, ‘a’ products can’t communicate with other types of wireless networking devices. As 802.11a products are also extremely hard to

CHAPTER 5

Networking find and don’t work with any existing 2.4GHz products, we’d avoid them at all costs.. For an extra burst of speed with an 802.11g router, look for a router with a ‘turbo’ mode. These typically run at up to 108Mbit/s or 125Mbit/s. The catch is that, because they’re non-standard versions of 802.11g that manufacturers have enhanced in different ways, you’ll have to buy your network adaptors and router from the same manufacturer. Network adaptors that don’t support the turbo mode will default to running at 54Mbit/s. 802.11n devices operate at faster speeds, but their top speed requires two networking channels to be used (known as channel bonding). While this is great for throughput, you can get increased interference from neighbouring wireless networks. It’s often best to disable the turbo mode and switch back to using a single channel. You should still get speeds of up to 130Mbit/s.

NETWORK SECURITY If you leave a wireless network unsecured, anyone within range who has a WiFi-equipped PC will be able to use your broadband line, and if they were so inclined they might even be able to gain access to your files. Although it may seem unlikely that you’ll be targeted by a local hacker, ‘bandwidth stealing’ is very common and can even happen without your neighbours realising they’re using your connection. One of our writers checked his router and found no fewer than nine users on it. The most common WiFi encryption standard is Wireless Protected Access (WPA2). Most routers support this; it’s easy to set up and very secure.

However, only Windows 7, Vista and XP Service Pack 2 support WPA natively. If any of your PCs has an older version of Windows, make sure the software with its WiFi adaptor allows WPA. The old standard, WPA, is less secure, but more widely supported. Most modern routers can run with WPA and WPA2 turned on, choosing the best method based on the connecting device. Your router should let you hide the name of your network (its SSID) so that you can connect to it but snoopers won’t see it. You should also be able to limit network access to specified WiFi adaptors using a feature called MAC address filtering or authentication. A MAC address is a unique ID given to each network device when it’s made. If only your own PCs, specified by the MAC addresses of their WiFi adaptors, are allowed on your network, it’s harder for intruders to get in. However, it also means that you have to add every device on your network into your router’s allow list manually. This can be a real pain and, as MAC addresses can be spoofed, we don’t recommend using this method of protection. If you have cable broadband, your router may also need to support MAC address spoofing. Cable providers often allow access only to the MAC address of the PC you signed up with. With spoofing, your router can show that MAC address, not its own, to the cable provider’s server. Finally, your router should act as a DHCP server. This means it can hand out network settings, such as IP addresses, automatically to any PC or other device you add. Every router can do this job, and they’re configured with this option on by default.

AERIALS The better and more numerous the aerials, the greater the range of your wireless network.

ETHERNET STATUS LIGHT Tells you if any device is attached to the numbered Ethernet port.

INTERNET CONNECTION LIGHT Tells you if the router is connected to your broadband service provider.

ETHERNET PORTS Most wireless routers have several Ethernet ports for standard wired connections. Look for Gigabit Ethernet for better performance.

WIFI STATUS LIGHT Tells you if your WiFi network is configured and working.

WAN PORT Depending on the type of router, this port connects to a modem or directly to your broadband line.

121

CHAPTER 5

Networking

Setting up a secure wireless network BEFORE WE TAKE you through configuring your network securely, it’s worth discussing security in a little more depth and discounting some techniques that are more hassle than they’re worth.

ENCRYPTING A CONNECTION

THE SERVICE SET IDENTIFIER

CHANNEL AND RANGE

MAC ADDRESS FILTERING

In the UK, wireless networks can operate on one of 13 channels, numbered from 1 to 13. Only channels 1, 6 and 11 should be used, however, as these don’t interfere with each other. If you’re getting poor signal strength or an intermittent connection, switch to another channel. 802.11n wireless devices (the latest standard) operate at their highest speeds by using two channels together in a process known as channel-bonding. If you’re having problems, switch to single-channel mode (also called 20MHz or 130Mbit/s mode).

MAC address filtering is another security technique that’s often touted as a good idea, but actually isn’t. A MAC address is the unique hardware address of a computer. You can tell your router to allow only specific MAC addresses to connect to the network. While this means that you can block all but your own computers from connecting, it’s difficult to manage because you have to look up the MAC addresses of your computers and enter them manually, and hackers can get round this protection easily by spoofing a valid MAC address.

µ

When you configure a wireless network, you’ll need to allocate it a name. This name is also called the service set identifier, or SSID. This can be anything you want, but don’t use any personal details that could identify you or your home. Other wireless security tutorials may tell you to disable the SSID broadcast in your router. This makes your wireless router invisible to other PCs, including your own. This sounds great in practice, but it doesn’t actually work very well as a serious security measure. Determined hackers can still detect your wireless network and discover its SSID. If you’re using good encryption, this is as far as they will get. Hiding your SSID will deter only the most casual of snoopers.

µ

The best way to secure your wireless network is to use encryption. The original encryption standard was called Wired Equivalent Privacy (WEP). However, this standard is far from secure, so you should avoid using WEP or you risk someone breaking into your network quite easily. A newer standard – WiFi Protected Access (WPA) – is not only more secure than WEP, it’s also far easier to set up. All you have to do is use a regular password. Connecting a computer to your wireless network simply requires you to enter this same password. You therefore need to make sure that the password you choose is easy enough to remember but difficult for other people to guess. Don’t use your name, house number or any other piece of information that other people could easily guess.

Some routers allow you to adjust the strength of the signal. This can be an effective way of deterring hackers. Simply turn down the strength of your router until your house is covered, but the area outside the building isn’t. This will make it harder for hackers to detect and connect to your network.

Tip Don’t make your password d too difficult to remember. You need to strike a balance between making your network hard for hackers to attack, but easy for you to use.

¯ää

MAC filtering is complex to set up and not very secure, so don’t use it

Use your router’s setup wizard if it has one, but check the settings using the step-by-step guide opposite

CHAPTER 5

Networking

HOW TO… Set up a wireless network CONNECT TO YOUR wireless router’s web interface page using the settings in your manual. If you can’t find them, run a Command prompt from the Start menu by clicking on Run and typing cmd. Type ipconfig in the window that appears and note down the gateway address. Start your browser and type http:// followed by the gateway address. Enter your username and password. CONFIGURE INTERNET SETTINGS On the settings page, use the information provided by your ISP to enter your account details. This may include a username and password and, for ADSL connections, advanced options such as Encapsulation. If you can’t find these details in the documentation, you’ll need to contact your ISP.

1

CONFIGURE WIRELESS SETTINGS To configure your wireless network, click on the wireless settings link. Type a network name into the router. This may be labelled Name, SSID or ESSID. Use the advice above when choosing an SSID.

2

Next, select the wireless channel you want to use. This setting may be on a different page to the wireless name, under a link called Advanced Wireless Settings, or something similar. Remember you can use only channels 1, 6 or 11. CHOOSE 802.11n MODE If you’re using an 802.11n wireless router, you’ll also be able to change the wireless mode from running at 300Mbit/s (or 270Mbit/s on some routers) to half this speed. However, you should do this only if you’re having trouble getting a reliable connection and if changing the channel number doesn’t work. Set the mode to 130Mbit/s, which will be called 20MHz mode on some routers.

3

SET ADVANCED WIRELESS SETTINGS If you want to hide your network from casual snoopers, you can disable Allow Broadcast of Name (SSID), or any similarly named option. You may also see an option for Wireless Isolation. Turning this on prevents wireless PCs talking to

4

1

2

3

4

123

CHAPTER 5

Networking other wireless PCs directly. This can be useful if you’re running a wireless hotspot, for example, but for normal home use turning it on will just make things such as file-sharing between wireless computers impossible.

need to allow incoming FTP traffic. If you want to prevent people on your network from using certain services, add these restrictions to the Outbound rules list.

ENCRYPT YOUR NETWORK Next, you need to encrypt your wireless network, the settings for which you will find in the Security section. If you have an 802.11n router, you’ll probably find that you don’t have a WEP option and can select only WPA-PSK or WPA2. These are the best options anyway. If you have a choice, select the highest level of WPA security that your router supports. Next, enter a password (sometimes called a network key), following the advice we set out in the introduction.

5

TURN ON THE FIREWALL A firewall can protect you from hackers trying to connect directly to your computer and should be turned on. Some routers have a security section with a simple tickbox to turn the firewall on or off. Other routers, including the one we’re using here, have the firewall on by default, but also allow you to create specific rules about the network traffic that’s allowed through. If you have a router such as this, you should allow all outbound but no inbound traffic unless you have a specific reason to change it. If you want to run an FTP server, for example, you’ll

6

124

TURN ON UPnP The universal plug’n’play (UPnP) technology found on many wireless routers allows your computer to configure your router’s firewall automatically to allow specific services such as making video calls in Windows Live Messenger. For the most secure environment you should turn off UPnP, but for most home networks it should be turned on simply because a lot of popular programs and services need it in order to work properly. The option to turn on UPnP varies between routers, but there’s usually either an Advanced section of the web interface or a dedicated UPnP link you can click.

7

SET ADVANCED FEATURES Some wireless routers let you configure advanced services such as web filtering, which can be used to help protect your children. Most routers allow you to prevent access to specific sites or filter sites using keywords, so that any URL that contains a listed word will be blocked. Be careful with this option, though; filtering by keywords such as ‘sex’ means harmless sites that contain the word ‘Middlesex’, for example, will be blocked.

8

5

6

7

8

CHAPTER 5

Networking CONFIGURE SCHEDULES On some routers, you can create a schedule to dictate when the filtering rules should apply. To configure a schedule to do this, select the days and times you want to block certain sites and keywords, then give it a name. If you want one PC – such as yours – to be able to visit any website, you have to enter it as a trusted computer by entering its IP address. To find out what this is, run a Command prompt, type ipconfig and note down the IP address (labelled IPv4 in Windows Vista). For the best protection, use a dedicated web-filtering application on any computers used by the younger members of your family. Windows 7 and Vista have parental controls built in, and you can also buy dedicated software to do this.

9

SET UP REMOTE MANAGEMENT Most routers have an option that lets you log into them remotely. When this is turned on, their web-management pages can be accessed over the internet and changed. We don’t recommend you turn this option on, as unauthorised users may try to change the settings on your wireless router. If you choose to allow access to your router’s management pages from the internet, you should restrict access to computers according to their IP addresses. In the screen below, the IP address is the address of the remote internet connection, not the computer’s IP address. This is an advanced setting that won’t apply to most users.

10

TURN ON ADVANCED PROTECTION Some routers have advanced security options to help protect your PC from internet-based attacks. The router here has an option called Disable Port Scan and DOS Protection. A port scan is where a hacker scans your network to see what services, such as FTP or web servers, are running. From this information they can then work out the best way to attack your computers and network. A denial-ofservice (DoS) attack is designed to stop a service working on your network, such as internet access.

11

SAVE SETTINGS AND REBOOT Save the router’s settings and let it reboot. You’re now ready to connect your PC to the network. We’ll assume that you’re using Windows’ built-in wireless network software. If additional software came with your network adaptor, its manual will show you how to use it or disable it so that you can use Windows’ own software instead, which appears in the Notification Area. In Windows XP, double-click on the computer icon with radio waves coming out of it. In Vista, click on the icon of two monitors. In Windows 7, click on the bar-chart icon. In all operating systems, select your wireless network from the list. It should have the name you gave it earlier. Click Connect and, when prompted, type in the password you set in Step 5. If you stopped your network from broadcasting its name, you’ll need to configure your network manually.

12

9

10

11

12

Tip If you’re having trouble getting a reliable wireless connection, try changing the wireless channel on your router.

125

CHAPTER 5

Networking UPGRADE TIME

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? Adding a wireless adaptor makes it easy to connect a PC to the internet without having to run wires all over the house.

CAN I UPGRADE? You can add a wireless adaptor to almost any PC, but you’ll need to check that your adaptor has support for your operating system. Older PCs will have slow USB 1.1 ports, so you won’t be able to run USB adaptors at 802.11g or 802.11n speeds.

Installing a wireless adaptor WIRELESS NETWORKS ARE springing up in homes all over the country, and the number of public hotspots has risen dramatically in the past few years. However, being near a wireless network is not much use if your PC or laptop can’t connect to it. Most modern laptops come equipped with wireless network adaptors, but if your notebook computer is more than a couple of years old, then you’ll need to add an adaptor yourself. If you’ve installed a fast 802.11n network in your house, then your laptop may not be able to communicate at full speed (Centrino 2 models have 802.11n adaptors), so it’s worth upgrading to the latest standard. The vast majority of desktop PCs come without wireless networking built in, but upgrading them by adding a wireless adaptor is fairly easy. We’ll show you how to add wireless networking to a desktop or laptop computer and connect it to a hotspot or your home network. If you need to set up a wireless router first, read our wireless router upgrade guide on page 120.

STATUS LIGHTS Most adaptors have one or more status lights. The manual will explain what they indicate.

The fastest ratified networking standard is 802.11g, which has a maximum throughput of 54Mbit/s. However, proprietary turbo modes on some routers can increase this speed to 125Mbit/s. To make use of a turbo mode such as this on your router, you’ll need to have a network adaptor from the same manufacturer as your router. The faster 802.11n standard has throughputs of up to 300Mbit/s. It has finally been fully ratified, and products based on this new standard are now available. Those based on the second draft of the standard should work with products from other manufacturers; look for the WiFi logo on the box. So if you have an 802.11n router, for example, any 802.11n network adaptor such as those built into the latest laptops should run at full speed. If you’re adding 802.11n adaptors to computers that don’t already have wireless networking, we’d recommend that you buy adaptors from your router’s manufacturer, as you’ll generally get slightly better performance.

PCI INTERFACE An adaptor using the PCI interface should fit any desktop PC built in the past 10 years, provided its PCI slots aren’t already full.

CARDBUS\EXPRESSCARD ADAPTOR All CardBus wireless adaptors need a 32-bit CardBus slot to work. ExpressCard adaptors need an ExpressCard slot. These adaptors are neater than USB models. ANTENNA PCI cards usually have removable antennas, so you can unscrew the standard one and fit a high-gain aerial for better reception.

USB ADAPTOR USB adaptors are easy to install, but if you want to use an 802.11n wireless connection, you’ll need a USB2 port on your computer.

¯äØ

CHAPTER 5

Networking

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

CHOOSING A WIRELESS ADAPTOR Most wireless network adaptors use one of three interfaces: PCI, USB or CardBus (commonly referred to as PCMCIA). USB and CardBus simply plug into matching ports on your computer, but PCI slots have to be installed inside your PC, so you’ll have to take the case off. The adaptor you choose depends on whether you have a laptop or a desktop PC, and what free ports or slots it has. Different adaptor types also have their own advantages and disadvantages. USB wireless network adaptors work with desktop and laptop PCs, and can be moved easily between the two. They’re also the easiest to install, as they just plug into a spare USB port on your computer. However, computers built before late-2001 typically have USB1.1 ports with a maximum transfer speed of 12Mbit/s. The 802.11g wireless standard runs at 54Mbit/s and 802.11n runs at up to 300Mbit/s, so if you have only USB1.1 ports your wireless network will be limited to the 11Mbit/s 802.11b standard. However, a USB2 PCI card costs just a few pounds and can be fitted inside your PC to give you the faster ports you require. CardBus wireless adaptors fit into a laptop’s PC Card slot, but won’t work with older 16-bit slots. Provided your laptop was built after 1996, you should have a suitable 32-bit CardBus PC Card slot. Unless you already use this for other PC Card devices, such as a cellular modem, you should buy a CardBus wireless adaptor. It’s neater than a USB adaptor and won’t take up one of your valuable USB ports. PCI adaptors fit into a PCI expansion slot in your desktop PC. Fitting a PCI wireless card means that you don’t have to use up a USB port. What’s more, PCI cards often have longer-range antennas, and many allow you to upgrade the antenna to improve reception further. That said, however, USB adaptors are considerably easier to install and the latest bunch offer decent range and performance. For desktop PCs we’d recommend installing a USB wireless adaptor rather than a PCI one.

INSTALLATION The software you need to install depends on the version of Windows you have, but the physical installation processes for USB, PC Card and PCI adaptors are similar no matter which operating system you use.

✔

OPERATING SYSTEM

✔

INTERFACES

✔

INFRASTRUCTURE

Windows 7, Vista and XP have built-in support for wireless networks. Their WiFi configuration utilities make it easy to connect to wireless networks and are far superior to those provided by your network adaptor’s manufacturer. Windows 2000 and 98 users don’t have built-in support for wireless networking. Instead, you’ll have to install the client software that comes with your network adaptor.

If you want to use a USB 802.11g adaptor at maximum speed, you’ll need USB2 ports. To use a PC Card adaptor, your laptop must support the 32-bit CardBus PCMCIA standard. Check your system’s specifications and speak to the manufacturer if you’re not sure. PCI cards work only in desktop PCs. Make sure you have a spare PCI slot before you buy a card.

You’ll also need a wireless network to log on to. Make sure you have a wireless router that is set up and working correctly. To find wireless hotspots in your area, try searching websites such as www.wi-fizone.org/zonelocator.asp. Some cafés and pubs offer wireless internet access, but you might have to pay a fee. 127

CHAPTER 5

Networking

HOW TO… Set up a wireless adaptor PLUG IN THE ADAPTOR In some cases, you may need to install drivers before you insert your network adaptor. Check the manufacturer’s instructions to make sure, and reverse Steps 1 and 2 if necessary.

1

USB AND PC CARD ADAPTORS You can plug in USB or PC Card adaptors while your PC is switched on. Simply connect them to a suitable slot or port.

PCI ADAPTORS When installing a PCI adaptor, your desktop PC must be switched off. Open the PC case, referring to the manufacturer’s instructions if need be, to access the PCI slots. There should be a blanking plate that lines up with the slot at the back of your case. Remove this by undoing the screw that holds it in place. Now insert your PCI card into the slot by lining up the edges with the slot and sliding it firmly into place, as shown in picture 1. Screw the PCI card’s backing plate to your PC’s chassis to keep the card secure. Finally, screw the supplied antenna on to the threaded antenna attachment on the back of the card. INSTALL SOFTWARE Almost all wireless network adaptors need drivers before they’ll work in any version of Windows. Older versions of Windows also need a utility to manage the wireless connection, but Windows 7, Vista and XP have this function already built in.

CONNECT TO THE NETWORK Double-click the Wireless icon in your PC’s Notification Area to open the Windows Wireless Configuration page or your manufacturer’s configuration utility. Either application should display a list of the available wireless networks. If more than one network is available, make sure you select your own or the one you’re allowed to access. If the wireless network is encrypted, you will be asked for your pass key. If you’re connecting to a hotspot, you should have been given this. If you’re connecting to your own network, you specified this pass key when configuring your router. If you’ve forgotten it, access your router’s wireless configuration page from another PC on your network and look up the encryption key from there.

3

1

2

2

WINDOWS 7, VISTA AND XP Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to install your adaptor’s driver or visit its website to get hold of the latest version. Many adaptors also come with a wireless utility program that helps you configure them. You don’t usually need to install this, and if you have the choice you should let Windows manage your wireless connection.

WINDOWS 98 AND ME

Tip If you can’t get a strong signal from your wireless adaptor, try repositioning it or its antennas.

¯äs

Windows 98 and Me don’t have native support for wireless networking, so you’ll need to install your adaptor’s wireless configuration utility to manage the connection. Follow the installation instructions to install drivers for your adaptor, making sure you choose to install any configuration programs. During the installation you may be asked for your Windows CD, so make sure you have it to hand.

3

CHAPTER 5

Networking

Testing and troubleshooting Wireless adaptors

TROUBLESHOOTING If you have trouble connecting or your network is slow, try changing the channel the router is using. You may have a weak signal. Open your wireless connection manager and check that you have a steady connection. Third-party antennas help boost wireless signals and can be fitted to many routers and PCI cards. If you’re using a USB adaptor but can connect only at 11Mbit/s, your USB2 port may be running in Full-Speed (12Mbit/s) mode. Check your PC’s manual to see how to enable Hi-Speed mode in the BIOS. If you don’t have this option, your PC may support only USB1.1. For around £10 including VAT you can buy a USB2 PCI card for a desktop PC, which enables

your USB adaptor to run at full speed. PC Card USB2 adaptors cost around £15 including VAT, but we recommend that laptop users buy a PC Card wireless adaptor in the first place. If you’re running Internet Explorer for the first time on your Windows 98 or Me PC, the Internet Connection Wizard will run even if your wireless network connection is set up. Select ‘I want to connect through a Local Area Connection (LAN)’ and click Next. Now select ‘Connect through a Local Area Network (LAN)’, and click Next. In the next screen, make sure all the boxes are unticked, click Next and select No when asked if you want to set up an email account. Click Next and Finish.

µ

Once you’ve installed your adaptor, you should be able to detect any local wireless networks by using the wireless configuration program in the taskbar. Connect to your preferred network. You should be able to see any network resources in My Network Places and access the internet with your browser. Check that your connection speed is near the maximum for your network type: 11Mbit/s for 802.11b, 54Mbit/s for 802.11g or 300Mbit/s for 802.11n. Your wireless configuration program should show the link speed. If you have Windows 7, Vista or XP, you can right-click the taskbar and run Task Manager. Look on the Network tab for your adaptor’s speed. If you’re not asked for a pass key when you first connect to your network, it’s unencrypted. It’s important to protect your internet connection from unauthorised use as you could be held responsible if anyone accesses illegal material over your network.

Adding a third-party antenna to your PCI wireless adaptor card may boost reception

129

CHAPTER 5

Networking UPGRADE TIME

Adding a network storage device

DIFFICULTY HARD

EASY

WHY UPGRADE? If you have lots of PCs on your network and want to be able to share files between them, a network attached storage (NAS) device is the best way.

CAN I UPGRADE? You can add network storage to any network. For the best performance with large files, you ideally want a Gigabit Ethernet wired network.

MORE AND MORE homes now have PC networks. But as any IT manager will tell you, a good network needs a file server that acts as a repository for shared files. You can set up one of your home PCs to act as a file server for music, photos and other files, but you would need to leave that PC switched on to give your other computers continuous access to the data. A better solution is to buy a dedicated network storage device. These are smaller and use less power than a PC. You can leave them powered up on your network, providing storage to your PCs whenever they need it. Many can act as print servers, and they make network backups easy, too. We’ll take you through the process of installing one of these devices on your network. If you need to set up your network first, read the section on wireless routers on page 120. The wireless adaptor guide on page 126 can also help.

COOLING FAN This keeps hard disks cool but can make a lot of noise. Bigger fans are usually quieter.

POWER SOCKET Most smaller storage devices use an external AC power adaptor. Larger models have integrated power supplies.

¯ßõ

CHOOSING A NAS DEVICE Network attached storage (NAS) devices cost more than internal hard disks, but they’re still very affordable. Most of the devices available provide storage for well under a pound a gigabyte. The simplest products contain a single hard disk, but bigger, more expensive devices often have multiple disks. As an alternative to providing more storage space, products with multiple disks can be configured in a RAID array to protect your data if one disk fails. Even if you can’t afford a RAIDenabled NAS device, you can still protect your data. Most have USB ports into which you can plug an external USB disk to make quick and easy backups. You may also be able to plug in a USB printer and share it on the network automatically. You can buy network storage with wired or wireless Ethernet interfaces. Wired Ethernet is cheaper and much quicker than even the fastest

WIRELESS INTERFACE Some devices have a wireless interface. This is slower than a wired connection, and should be used only where wires aren’t possible.

USB PORT Most devices have at least one USB port, which you can use to connect and share further USB storage devices or a printer.

NETWORK PORT Use this to connect the storage device to your network. If your device and network switch support Gigabit Ethernet, be sure to use a Cat5e or Cat6 cable.

CHAPTER 5

Networking

COMPATIBILITY CHECKLIST

wireless network. If you already have a wireless router, it should have some Ethernet ports to which you can connect a wired storage device, making it available wirelessly, too. However, we recommend that you spend extra on a wireless storage device only if you don’t have an up-to-date wireless router, or you need to position your file server somewhere you can’t reach with cables. Gigabit Ethernet gives the fastest performance when accessing your network storage, but your storage device, your computers and your router or network switch must all support this faster standard. You’ll also have to replace any Cat5 Ethernet cables you have with Cat5e or Cat6 cables for reliably high speeds. Most network storage devices are designed to be left on all the time. Unfortunately, some devices – especially those with more than one hard disk – can be very noisy, so you may wish to tuck them away in a cupboard. You should make sure there’s plenty of ventilation as some devices can become warm in operation. Most network storage devices support Microsoft’s Universal Plug and Play (UPnP) protocol. This allows devices to connect to the computers on your network with little or no configuration. Versions of Windows from Windows Me onwards have UPnP support built-in (see the Compatibility Checklist on the right for more details). Network storage devices that don’t support UPnP depend on their own drivers, setup utilities or web interfaces for installation and configuration. Some of these may have their own requirements, such as a particular version of Windows. Again, see the Compatibility Checklist for details. Some network storage devices have advanced features such as media servers to share files with streaming media players. Also look for a devices that can download files automatically without needing a PC to be turned on.

INSTALLATION The physical installation of a network storage device is comparatively simple and shouldn’t cause you any problems. The software you need to install will vary depending on the version of Windows you use and the make and model of your storage device. You may need to install drivers before you attach your device to your network; check the manufacturer’s instructions to find out.

✔

SETUP REQUIREMENTS

✔

CLIENT REQUIREMENTS

To configure your network storage device, you’ll use a setup utility or web interface. A utility may require a specific version of Windows, while a web interface may work only with a particular browser, such as Internet Explorer. Make sure that one of your PCs can run the setup, after which the device should be accessible from almost any PC.

Unless your PCs are ancient, they should be able to access the network storage. All versions of Windows from 95 onward can use Windows File Sharing to connect. If your device supports UPnP, it’ll be easier to connect from PCs that support this standard. UPnP is built into Windows Me, 2000, XP, Vista and 7, and makes adding the device to My Network Places virtually automatic.

✔

INTERFACES

A wired device must be cabled to your network. Attach it to a free port on a router, switch or hub. If you don’t have a port free, add a hub or switch to extend your network. It doesn’t matter if a hub or switch stands between your storage and your wireless router; you can still access the storage wirelessly and you won’t notice a performance hit. 131

CHAPTER 5

Networking

HOW TO… Add network storage CONNECT THE DEVICE TO YOUR NETWORK The easiest place to put your network storage device is near your network’s router or switch. You could put it in a nearby cupboard if you’re worried about noise from its disks or cooling fan, but make sure you can reach it to turn it off and that it has ample air for cooling. Simply plug one end of an Ethernet cable into your network storage device and the other end into a free port on a hub, switch or router. If both your storage device and switch support Gigabit Ethernet, you’ll need to use a Cat5e or Cat6 Ethernet cable for the best performance. PCs with wired network connections will have the fastest access to your storage device, so use wireless connections only where necessary. Keep all Ethernet cables and any power leads out of the way so no-one can trip over them.

1

INSTALL AND CONFIGURE YOUR DEVICE If your network storage device doesn’t support UPnP, you should install the necessary drivers or utility software according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For some devices, you may have to install software on every PC. Check the instructions for guidance. Make a note of any IP address or Windows File Sharing name assigned to the network storage device during the setup process, as you’ll probably need this later. If your network storage device supports UPnP, you shouldn’t need to install any additional software, but make sure UPnP is enabled on your computer. Windows 95 and 98 don’t have support for UPnP built in, but if you can configure your storage device from another machine on your network, you’ll be able to access it from PCs running these older versions of the operating system using Windows File Sharing. To enable UPnP In Windows Me, click on the Windows Setup tab. Click Communications and select Details. Make sure Universal Plug and Play is checked. In Windows 2000 and XP, select Add/Remove Windows Components. Select Network Services in the resulting window and click the Details button. In the window that appears, make sure the tickbox for UPnP User Interface is checked. In Windows Vista and 7, UPnP is turned on by default.

1

2

2

Tip In Windows Explorer, use Map Network Drive… on the Tools menu to assign your network storage device a drive letter, making it easier to access.

¯ßä

ACCESS YOUR NETWORK STORAGE DEVICE Once you’ve installed the driver software or activated UPnP support on your computer, you should be able to connect to your

3

3

network storage device. If your device uses UPnP, it should already be represented by an icon in My Network Places, which appears on your desktop or in the Start menu. You should now be able to copy files to and from your storage device. If your device doesn’t use UPnP, right-click on My Network Places and click Explore. In the resulting window, select Entire Network followed by Microsoft Windows Network. You should see a list of the available workgroups on your network. Your network storage device should be within the workgroup name you gave it when running the manufacturer’s installation. Alternatively, you may have to access your network storage device by typing its IP address or Windows File Sharing name into the address bar of Windows Explorer or Internet Explorer. If you didn’t write these down when you configured your device, run the manufacturer’s configuration utility or installer again. Right-clicking on a network share and selecting Map network drive lets you access your NAS as a normal drive.

CHAPTER 5

Networking

Testing and troubleshooting Network storage

TROUBLESHOOTING If you can’t access your device from any of your computers, check that you have set it up according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Also make sure that you’ve inserted the network cable correctly and not into a port on the router marked ‘hub’ or with an X. Look for flashing lights next to its network port, which may indicate activity. If the connections are OK, make sure your router is running a DHCP server and that your storage device is configured to obtain an IP address automatically. Most home networks are configured this way and most storage devices should lease an IP address by default. If you’re not

using DHCP, check the address you’ve given the device isn’t already in use. If you still can’t access the device, try reinstalling its drivers on your computer, making sure you reboot if prompted. Look in the device’s instructions for a hardware reset option. If you can access your storage device from some PCs but not from a Windows 95 or 98 computer, it may be using UPnP. Look on the installation disk for an easy setup routine for earlier versions of Windows. If you have a Gigabit Ethernet network but file transfer speeds seem a little slow, make sure the PC you’re using, your network storage device and any hubs, switches or routers in between support Gigabit Ethernet. You should also be using Cat5e or Cat6 network cables for optimal performance.

µ

If you’ve configured your network device correctly, you should now be able to access it from any computer on your home network. Make sure that you can access it from each computer in turn by opening the storage device and copying a few small files to it. Transferring files over a network can be comparatively slow, particularly if you’re using a wireless network connection or 10BaseT Ethernet. However, you can leave large copy operations running in the background while you use your computer or even leave them running overnight. If you normally connect to your network wirelessly, consider using a cable when you know you need to transfer lots of files, such as when copying your entire MP3 collection.

If your network doesn’t use DHCP, make sure your NAS device has a unique IP address

133

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking IN THIS CHAPTER

134

Make your PC go faster for free

136

System cooling

137

Overclocking basics

138

Understanding the BIOS

139

How to… Overclock your processor

140

How to… Overclock your graphics card

141

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking

hy spend money on new hardware when you can get a performance boost for free? By overclocking your components – making them run faster by tweaking common settings – you can improve most PCs’ speeds by around 20 per cent or more. We’ll show you how to get a faster PC for free with this in-depth guide.

7

´

135

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking

Make your PC go faster for free DO YOU WANT your PC to run faster? For free? This may sound like a dubious marketing claim, but it is actually possible to wring more power out of your computer without spending any money at all. Here we’ll show you how to trick your computer so that it picks up the pace.

WHAT IS OVERCLOCKING? Boosting the speed of your PC’s existing hardware – known as overclocking – takes advantage of the extra headroom that is available because of the way in which PC processors are made. It’s not just processors that can be overclocked, however; graphics cards and memory can also be tweaked relatively easily, potentially increasing your PC’s performance in all manner of ways, whether you’re running games or encoding video files. HOW IS IT POSSIBLE? Computer processors are made in fabrication plants by companies such as Intel and AMD. Every processor, whether it is a slow or fast one, is made using the same process; there are no specific production lines for each speed grade. However, each processor is slightly different in terms of what clock speeds it can achieve at a certain voltage. This is because of tiny imperfections or differences in the chips, which come about as a result of the manufacturing process. Some chips may even be faulty and, after testing, be thrown away. Most work perfectly well, but will be capable of running at different speeds.

µ Overclocking your processor also involves adjusting the memory speed

¯ßØ

Manufacturers cherry-pick the best chips in a process called speed-binning, whereby the products capable of high clock speeds are categorised as high-end processors while the others will be labelled with lower clock speeds and sold at cheaper prices. An example of this is Intel’s 3.2GHz Core i7-965 Extreme Edition, which costs nearly £800, while the slower 2.66GHz Core i7-920 costs around £190. Demand for faster (and hence more expensive) processors is never as high as it is for slower models, so often processors that are capable of faster clock speeds are sold as cheaper versions to meet demand. Clearly there is some potential to be exploited, which is what overclocking is all about. WHY OVERCLOCK? Why would you want to increase the clock speed of your hardware? Well, you’ve probably noticed how much faster a new PC runs than one that’s three years old. Games run smoother, Windows is nippier and more responsive and tasks such as photo editing and video encoding take less time. This is partly due to the hardware having newer and more efficient designs, but it’s also because it usually runs at higher frequencies, and a higher frequency means more calculations per second and ultimately better performance. The best bit about overclocking is that it’s free and can often boost your PC’s speed significantly. When running tests for this book, we were able to boost our PC’s performance by 20 per cent relatively easily and with no harmful side effects. CAN I OVERCLOCK MY PC? Unfortunately, many motherboards sold as part of complete systems often have no overclocking options in their BIOS, the basic software used to run a PC. If this is the case for you, don’t despair. If you have a discrete graphics card, as opposed to having graphics built into the motherboard, it’s still possible to overclock it using software in Windows. If you’re lucky enough to own a motherboard with frequency and voltage adjustment, you may be able to overclock it slightly. Motherboards built for enthusiasts often have more options than you can shake a stick at, and you can spend days tweaking them. In some cases, it’s possible to increase your processor’s speed by over 100 per cent. Over the next few pages, we’ll focus on the main options. We’ll apply only mild adjustments to the PC’s processor and graphics card to get an idea of

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking

Taking the heat off System cooling systems are now available off the shelf, ready-made to fit almost any processor, motherboard or graphics card. They are combined with what are essentially tiny car radiators and powerful fish-tank pumps. Water-cooled systems are often extremely quiet, and also perform significantly better than air-coolers. A good cooling system can also increase the lifespan of components such as the processor and graphics card. The downside is that it can cost over £100 for a water-cooling kit that is noticeably better than air-cooling options. Water-cooling is good for achieving close to ambient (air) temperatures but, believe it or not, it is possible to cool your hardware well below zero. Extreme overclockers use dry ice and liquid nitrogen to cool their processors and graphics cards as low as -170°C. Under these conditions it’s possible to increase the voltages supplied to components significantly. This level of cooling enables extreme overclockers to compete for world records for the fastest overclocked systems.

µ

Overclocking enthusiasts go to great lengths to ensure their PCs run as cool as possible, because if processors or graphics cards get too hot, they can become unstable. In general, the cooler a chip is, the further you can overclock it with the help of increased voltages. If you’re serious about overclocking, you should consider adding case fans to improve airflow or buy a better case. Larger cases tend to have more fans and better airflow, which often allows your system to run much cooler. You can buy new coolers for processors and graphics, too. These cost from as little as £40 and can reduce the temperature of your processor significantly, particularly under load. New fans and coolers are often so efficient that they run more quietly, too, meaning that you benefit from noise reduction as well. Once you start increasing voltages to get faster chips, cooling systems that rely on moving air around soon become overwhelmed by the amount of heat produced by the hardware. Water-cooling is one way around this. Water-cooling

Cooling systems for overclocked computers can use air, water and even dry ice and liquid nitrogen to lower the system temperature

137

CHAPTER 6

µ

Overclocking

Adjusting the processor’s bus speed increases its overall speed and gives you a performance boost

how much more performance improvement you’re likely to see, even from relatively small changes. If your system is fairly modern, the chances are that it will be suitable for overclocking. We’d recommend doing some further research on the subject to see what it might be capable of. And if you’re considering upgrading your processor, don’t open your wallet until you’ve tries overclocking – you could get the speed boost you want for free.

Tip Increase your processor’s speed slowly and check your PC’s stability after each change. That way you’re less likely to run into major problems.

¯ßs

OVERCLOCKING: THE DOWNSIDES There are a couple of disadvantages to consider. As you increase the frequencies of your hardware, you often need to increase the amount of voltage it uses. This doesn’t mean you need an extra wall socket, though. The difference is usually less than half a volt, which is adjusted in your PC’s BIOS (more of which later). The result is an increased heat output, which can require more capable cooling of the processor in particular. If you get this wrong, it’s easy to make your system unstable. As a rule of thumb, we’d advise not increasing any settings above 20 per cent of the default value unless you absolutely know what you’re doing. This is especially true for voltages, which can actually damage your hardware. The following guides, which are based on an average, mid-range PC and tweak the processor and graphics card frequencies, will steer you safely through the process to a faster PC.

For AMD processors, this external bus runs at 200MHz. For Intel Core i7 processors, it runs at 133MHz, and for older Intel processors it runs at 200MHz, 266MHz, 333MHz or 400MHz, depending on the model of the chip. The processor’s speed is determined by its multiplier. Our test PC has an Intel E5200 processor, which has a 12.5x multiplier and an external bus speed of 200MHz. This gives us a processor speed of 2.5GHz (in other words, 200MHz x 12.5). The same rules govern the speed of AMD and Core i7 processors. The primary method for overclocking is to adjust the external bus speed. In our example, increasing the bus speed by 2MHz increases the processor’s frequency by 25MHz (2 x 12.5). For most Intel processors, the BIOS setting may be called the FSB; for AMD processors it’s probably called HTT; for Core i7 chips it could be called Base Clock. The problem with this method is that increasing the external bus speed also increases the speed of other components, including the memory. The speed of DDR, DDR2 and DDR3 memory is quoted in MHz, such as 800MHz DDR2. This figure is achieved in two ways. First, the memory doubles the base frequency (DDR stands for Double Data Rate), so the real frequency of DDR2 800MHz memory is 400MHz (800MHz ÷ 2). This ‘real’ speed is determined by a multiplier (called a ratio in the BIOS) of the processor’s external bus. Our Core 2 Duo E5200 has an external bus speed of 200MHz, so the memory ratio is 2:1: 200MHz x 2 = 400MHz. If we increase the external bus by 20 per cent to 240MHz, the RAM’s speed will rocket to 960MHz. This is pushing its limits, and most RAM chips will probably fail at this speed. A failure in memory can cause a failure in operating system files, requiring Windows to be reinstalled. Before we talk about overclocking the processor, then, it’s important that you understand how to prevent memory problems. The most obvious solution would be to leave the external bus speed alone and increase the multiplier of the processor without touching any other components. However, this isn’t possible on most processors, as the multiplier is usually locked. Only AMD’s Black Edition and Intel’s Extreme Edition processors have unlocked multipliers.

OVERCLOCKING BASICS The speed of the processor and memory and the connection to other components such as the graphics card are all controlled by a single external bus speed. The speeds of other components are purely multiples of this speed.

SAFETY FIRST To prevent your memory having errors when it’s overclocked, there are a couple of things to try in your BIOS. First, you can adjust the memory’s voltage setting. Increasing the memory voltage by

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking

Don’t panic! Understanding the BIOS The BIOS makes it possible to overclock your system, but it can look rather daunting when you access its settings. The section of the BIOS we’re interested in should look like the image below. With this BIOS we had to choose the Advanced section and select ‘Jumperless configuration’. Your BIOS may have a different menu structure, in which case you should look for settings related to the frequencies of the external bus and memory (DRAM), which will be made up of several options that allow you to change the different ratios of the memory divider. This value may even increase automatically as you adjust the external bus, giving a real-time indication of the memory frequency. This simplifies the guesswork and is extremely useful in helping you avoid settings that might push the memory too far.

We also had to change the Ai Overclock Tuner to Manual. If your settings are greyed out and unavailable, check to see if your BIOS is set to Auto and change it to Manual. The voltage control options are at the bottom. The values will vary between systems, but you should avoid increasing voltages by more than 15-20 per cent, especially if you only have a standard air cooling system. The screenshot below also shows the CPU multiplier (labelled ‘CPU Ratio Setting’), which is set to 12.5. Different CPUs have different multipliers. Usually these can be lowered, making it possible to achieve high FSB and memory speeds if you’re limited by your processor. Some CPUs have upwards unlocked multipliers, which means you can overclock them using the multiplier alone.

µ The BIOS may look a little daunting, but you’ll` need to change only a couple of settings

139

CHAPTER 6

PROCESSOR OVERCLOCKING What you’ll need • The latest version of the CPU-Z

program, which is available from www.cpuid.com. This program shows the clock speed of your RAM and processor in real time.

• The latest version of Core Temp, a processor temperature-monitoring program, which is available from www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp. • The latest version of Prime95 from www.mersenne.org/freesoft. This program tests the stability of your processor.

140

10 per cent should do the trick. For DDR2 RAM, this would mean increasing it from 1.8V to 2.0V. If this fails, then there’s one last thing you can try that might save the day: adjusting the memory ratio. By lowering this, it’s possible to increase the external bus speed but keep the memory running at close to its normal level. Adjusting the memory ratio can be tricky, as BIOSes can display this figure in different ways. The easiest BIOSes to use let you adjust the ratio and also display the resulting speed of the memory in megahertz. This makes it easy to adjust, as you can increase the external bus’s speed and see how fast your memory is running and adjust the memory ratio accordingly. Unfortunately, not all BIOSes are that easy to use. We’ve seen plenty that only let you select the type of memory you have installed (DDR2 667MHz, DDR2 800MHz and so on), without displaying the current speed at which the memory is running. The way to deal with these situations is to work out the ratios at the default settings manually. Remember, the ratio is the memory’s full rated speed divided by two to give the memory frequency, then divided by the external bus speed. With our Intel processor it has a 200MHz external bus, so running DDR2 800MHz memory gives us a ratio of 2:1 (800 ÷ 2 = 400, 400 ÷ 200 = 2). The same settings running DDR2 667MHz memory would give us a ratio of 1.67:1 (667 ÷ 2 = 333, 333 ÷ 200 = 1.67). With DDR2 800MHz memory, increasing the external bus speed by 20 per cent to 220MHz increases the memory speed to 880MHz. Selecting the DDR2 667 option in the BIOS would reduce memory speed to 735MHz (220 x 1.67 = 367.4, 367.4 x 2 = 735MHz). At this level our memory would be running more slowly than normal, so this probably isn’t a good choice in this instance. Just be aware that exceeding our recommended maximum of a 20 per cent increase could cause problems with memory, so you may need to lower its ratio. ANOTHER BUS COMES ALONG The final complication with adjusting the external bus is that it also affects the system bus, which the processor uses to communicate with other devices in your system. For all Intel processors, bar the new Core i7 model, there’s a quadpumped frontside bus (FSB), which runs four times faster than the external bus speed. In our ti example, then, our E5200 processor has a ex 200MHz external bus and an 800MHz FSB (200 x 20

µ

Overclocking

You should run a processor-intensive task to make sure that your overclocked settings are stable

4). This multiplier is fixed, and if you increase the external bus too much, you’ll run into problems. AMD and Core i7 processors don’t have an FSB, but use HyperTransport and QuickPath Interconnect respectively. These newer buses let the processor talk directly to each component, rather than sharing the FSB, as with older Intel processors. The speed of these buses is controlled by an adjustable multiplier. For example, an AMD processor with a 1,800MHz HyperTransport bus has a 9x multiplier (200MHz external bus x 9). The good thing about this system is that, depending on your BIOS, you can increase the external bus speed but reduce the multiplier. To maintain stability, you should ideally keep these bus speeds at their default level. Before you start overclocking, make a note of the system bus’s default speed – then, when you adjust the external bus, lower the multiplier until the system bus runs at a similar speed to its default level. In each of these cases, overclocking by a maximum of only 20 per cent shouldn’t cause any problems. Bearing all this in mind, we’ll now show you how to get a free processor speed boost.

HOW TO… OVERCLOCK YOUR PROCESSOR The first thing you need to do is identify your processor. Run CPU-Z (see the ‘What you’ll need’ box on the left for details), which should tell you the make and model of your processor, as well as its stated frequency. The frequency is important as it will give you some idea of how far you might be able to overclock your processor. Intel Core 2 processors have proven to be very overclockable

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking

GRAPHICS CARD OVERCLOCKING and you’ll probably be able to exceed the 20 per cent mark we’re aiming for. It’s worth running Core Temp (see box opposite) to check your processor’s temperature when idle and while running Prime95. If the temperature while running Prime 95 goes above 80°, we’d recommend buying a better cooling system. It’s also a good idea to check the load temperature after you’ve made a change to the overclocking level. Start by rebooting your PC and, when the POST screen appears, hit the Del key (or whatever key your PC needs to access Setup). This should take you into your PC’s BIOS. BIOS versions differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, so there’s no all-encompassing guide on how to find the settings we’re looking for. They’re normally to be found in the Advanced Settings or Frequency and Voltage section. Specifically we’re looking for the external bus frequency, using the naming conventions we mentioned earlier. You may also have to switch from automatic to manual frequency adjustment. You should also look for the settings for PCI-E spread spectrum and processor spread spectrum, as well as C1E state and/or Intel Speedstep, and disable them all. For AMD systems, this is called AMD Cool’n’Quiet. These are related to saving power and can hinder overclocking.

d

What you’ll nee Start by increasing the bus by 10 per cent. In our case, this increased it from • The latest version of RivaTuner, 200MHz to 220MHz. You’ll also need to a graphics card overclocking check your memory speed. Check the program that’s available from default speed using CPU-Z and compare http://tinyurl.com/kuysdu. this with the reading in the BIOS. If it’s • The latest version of GPU-Z from running more than 10 per cent faster, this www.techpowerup.com/gpuz. This could lead to instability, so consider program shows the core and RAM increasing its voltage or adjusting its ratio. speed of the graphics card, as well Save your changes and exit. When as its temperature, in real time. Windows loads, run Prime95 for half an hour to check that your system is stable. Repeat • Download 3DMark 06 from the process, increasing the bus slightly each www.futuremark.com. This program time, until the PC shows signs of instability. is used to test the stability and When this happens, revert back to the last performance of graphics cards. stable setting. Now leave Prime95 running forr several hours. We recommend that you run it for at least six hours to ensure that the overclocking is stable. You can also try increasing the voltage of the processor in the BIOS, but don’t do this by more than 20 per cent, and do it in steps, checking the temperature each time. As you can see from the graphs on page 143, our Intel E5200 processor scored 102 in our image-editing test. With a 20 per cent overclocking to 3GHz, the score increased to 123, a 20 per cent performance increase. Similar results occurred with our other Windows tests. We saw less of a boost when playing games after overclocking the processor, however, only getting a few extra frames per second.

µ

HOW TO… OVERCLOCK YOUR GRAPHICS CARD

You can easily overclock your graphics card using a Windows application

Overclocking your graphics card is much easier and can be done from within Windows. ATI graphics card owners can use its overdrive utility, included with its Catalyst Control Centre software. You may find this easier to use than the method we’re using here. We’ve used RivaTuner (see the ‘What you’ll need’ box above), which is compatible with ATI and Nvidia graphics cards. The two options to consider are the core frequency and memory frequency. Direct X 10-compatible graphics cards have a third option called shaders or stream processors, but as this speed is linked to the core speed, we’ll ignore this option for simplicity’s sake. Graphics cards are normally more restricted than processors. As such, you may find the limit of your graphics card before you hit the 20 per cent level. To test for stability after each increase in clock speed, use 3DMark 06 (see above). 141

CHAPTER 6

µ

Overclocking

Chip makers cherry-pick the best processors from the manufacturing process for their faster models

Your graphics card’s limit is characterised by ‘artefacts’, which appear on the screen. These are essentially graphical corruptions that might also be accompanied by your PC freezing. This is no cause for alarm, however; you’re not in danger of frying your system. These glitches are simply your graphics card’s way of saying you’ve pushed it too far. If this does happen, simply exit 3DMark 06 or reboot your PC and try lowering the clock speeds. With RivaTuner installed, locate the small button below the drop-down menu in the graphics card/ monitor information window. Clicking on this should bring up six or so coloured icons. Click on the one that looks like a graphics card and this should display the low-level system tweaks window. Tick the box labelled ‘Enable low-level hardware overclocking’. You should now be able to move the slider bars. The changes won’t be applied until you click Apply, so don’t worry about accidentally moving the sliders. Start by increasing the speed of the core in increments of 30MHz, then run 3DMark 06 once

while watching for artefacts. Continue to do this until you see artefacts or the PC freezes. Go back to RivaTuner and reduce the clock speed by one notch, then overclock the memory, checking stability each time with 3DMark 06. We hit a wall with the memory frequency at just 25MHz above the default of 900MHz on our ATI HD 4830. Beyond this we experienced artefacts in our benchmarks. We were also unable to increase the core speed by more than 15 per cent, achieving just 650MHz. These figures are much lower, in terms of percentage, than most other graphics cards we’ve overclocked in the past, so the chances are you’ll have more luck. We ran all overclocked tests with the memory set at 925MHz. Before being overclocked, the ATI HD 4830 in our PC produced a frame rate of 46.9fps in Call of Duty 4 and 17.7fps in Crysis. With the core clocked at 650MHz, our PC managed a frame rate of 51.2fps in Call of Duty 4 and 19.5fps in Crysis. Overall this meant an increase of 8.4 per cent in Call of Duty 4 and 9.3 per cent in Crysis. As we found that overclocking the processor also increased performance in games, we carried out a further run of the benchmarks with the processor overclocked at 3GHz combined with our maximum overclock on the graphics card. We saw a performance increase of 11.6 per cent in Call of Duty 4 and a 15.8 per cent boost for Crysis. Given the lacklustre overclocking capabilities of our graphics card, we’re sure these figures would be even more impressive with a different graphics card. It’s well worth pursuing this further yourself, as the results could be significantly better.

CONCLUSION It doesn’t take long to get your head around the basics of overclocking. After all, there are only a few settings to adjust at any one time. The results are real, though, and can easily make the difference between an unplayable 19fps in a game and an acceptably smooth 25fps. With this free power on tap, especially if you combine overclocking your processor and graphics card, you’d be mad not to give it a try. If you leave the voltage settings alone, there’s little damage that can be done. Of course, there are pitfalls. It can be a bit of a lottery, as our graphics card endeavours clearly showed. Overclocking the memory can lead to a corrupted operating system, and overclocking in itself can lead to the occasional unexplained crash. Stick with our 20 per cent limit, though, and you should be fine. In today’s tough financial times, this free speed boost may save you having to splash out an upgrade. 142

CHAPTER 6

Overclocking

2D Performance PCMark Media benchmark results

Overclocking our Intel processor by 20 per cent led to a significant performance boost, particularly in processor-intensive applications such as video encoding.

/, /)

Fm\iXcc

./ .( .0 .,

M`[\f \eZf[`e^

.) -()* ((/

@dX^\ \[`k`e^

(() (') .-

3GHz (20% overclock)

.*

Dlck`kXjb`e^

2.875GHz (15% overclock)

-0

2.75GHz (10% overclock)

-* '

,'

(''

(,'

2.5GHz (stock speed)

3D Performance Games Overclocking the processor had less of an effect on frame rates in our games tests. For better games performance, overlock the graphics card (see below).

+/%* +/%)

:Xcc f] ;lkp +

+.%0 +-%0 (0%0 (0%.

:ipj`j

(.%0 (.%. '

)'

+'

-'

D`e`dld ]iXd\ iXk\ _`^_\i `j Y\kk\i

3GHz (20% overclock)

2.875GHz (15% overclock)

2.75GHz (10% overclock)

2.5GHz (stock speed)

GPU Overclocking Games An overclocked graphics card and processor together boosted games’ frame rates. As noted above, though, the main improvement was caused by overclocking the graphics card, as this is directly responsible for a game’s performance.

,* ,(%)

:Xcc f] ;lkp +

,'%. +/%. +-%0 )( (0%,

:ipj`j

(/%/ (/%) (.%. '

)'

+'

-'

D`e`dld ]iXd\ iXk\ _`^_\i `j Y\kk\i

650MHz core + E5200 @ 3GHz 650MHz core

6.15MHz

595MHz core

Stock speed (575MHz core)

143

CHAPTER 7

Trouble

CHAPTER 7

Troubleshooting IN THIS CHAPTER Fixing boot problems

£{È

BIOS beep codes

£{n

Windows problems

£xä

Network problems

£xÓ

How to… Connect a wired network

£x{

How to… Connect a wireless network £xx How to… Check for other computers £xÇ

144

CHAPTER 7

Trouble shooting

hen it all goes wrong and your computer won’t work, don’t panic – we’re here to help you with our in-depth and easy-tofollow troubleshooting guide.

7

´

145

CHAPTER 7

Trouble Shooting

Fixing boot problems NO

Do the computer’s fans spin when you push the power button?

Check the power cables. Does this solve the problem?

YES

Do you see an image on the screen?

NO

NO

YES

Try replacing the power supply.

Check the video and monitor power cables. Does this solve the problem? NO

Does the POST sequence complete successfully? NO YES

Try resetting the CMOS. If this works, your overclocking settings were incorrect. Does this solve the problem?

Have you overclocked your PC? NO

NO

Check the BIOS settings. Does this solve the problem? NO

YES

Do you hear beeps when you turn your computer on?

NO

Check the hard disk cables. Does this solve the problem? Refer to your motherboard manual, or look up the beep codes on page 148.

146

Try replacing or reseating major components and check for overheating.

NO

YES

CHAPTER 7

Trouble shooting

Remove any media cards from USB devices, and remove any discs from drives. Does this solve the problem?

NO

Do you see an “NTLDR missing or corrupted” or “Operating system not found” message?

Restore your PC if you have a backup or reinstall Windows. If the test fails, replace it and restore the backup or reinstall Windows.

NO

YES

YES

Can you hear unusual noises coming from your hard disk?

NO

Do you see a blue screen with an error message?

YES

YES

Does your PC hang (crash) before the Windows splash screen appears?

NO NO

Try removing any recently installed hardware. Does this solve the problem? NO

Uninstall any recently installed programs. Does this solve the problem?

YES

NO

NO

Use System Restore (see page 14).

Can you boot into Safe Mode? (Press F8 immediately after the POST sequence.)

Repair or reinstall the Windows installation. Does this solve the problem?

NO

NO

It’s likely your computer has a serious fault. Contact your supplier.

NO

Reinstall Windows or restore a backup image if you have one. Does this solve the problem?

147

CHAPTER 7

Trouble Shooting

BIOS beep codes WHEN YOU SWITCH on or reset your PC it performs a diagnostic test called a Power-On Self Test (POST) to check that all the components are present and working correctly. First, it checks core components such as the system clock, processor, RAM, keyboard controller and graphics card. If any device fails this part of the POST, you’ll hear series of beeps from the PC. After the graphics card has passed its test, the BIOS can then indicate any errors onscreen, such as the classic “Keyboard error or no keyboard present. Press F1 to continue” message. When the POST has completed successfully, most PCs emit a short beep to let you know the hardware is working correctly. However, beep codes differ depending on the BIOS manufacturer, so refer to your motherboard manual if you have it. Below are some common beep codes for popular BIOSes. If you’re unsure which BIOS your PC has, try to match the sequence of beeps with the codes.

• FIVE BEEPS Processor or memory error (reseat or replace processor and memory) • SIX BEEPS Keyboard controller failure (replace motherboard) • SEVEN BEEPS Processor exception interrupt error (reseat or replace processor) • EIGHT BEEPS Display memory read or write failure (reseat or replace graphics card) • NINE BEEPS ROM checksum error (replace BIOS chip or motherboard) • 10 BEEPS CMOS shutdown read or write error (replace BIOS chip or motherboard) • 11 BEEPS Bad cache memory (replace cache memory if possible) • ONE LONG, THREE SHORT BEEPS Memory error (reseat or remove any memory recently added and reseat all other memory) • ONE LONG, EIGHT SHORT BEEPS Graphics card error (reseat graphics card)

µ

AWARD BIOS

Interpreting the BIOS beep codes correctly can help you identify problems with your PC

AMI BIOS

• ONE LONG, TWO SHORT BEEPS Graphics

• ONE BEEP All OK • TWO BEEPS Memory parity error (reseat or replace memory) • THREE BEEPS Memory read or write error (reseat or replace memory) • FOUR BEEPS Motherboard timer problem (replace motherboard)

card error (reseat or replace graphics card) • ONE LONG, THREE SHORT BEEPS No graphics card, or graphics memory error (install or replace graphics card) • TWO SHORT BEEPS Memory error (reseat or replace memory) • ONE HIGH-PITCHED BEEP Processor overheating • ONE HIGH-PITCHED BEEP, ONE LOWPITCHED BEEP Processor error

PHOENIX BIOS Phoenix BIOSes produce a series of beeps separated by a pause. For example: beep… beep beep beep… beep… beep would be 1-3-1-1 • 1-1-4-1 Level 2 cache error (reseat or replace the processor) • 1-2-2-3 BIOS ROM checksum (replace BIOS chip or motherboard) • 1-3-1-1 Memory refresh test failure (reseat or replace memory) • 1-3-1-3 Keyboard controller failure (replace the motherboard) • 1-3-4-1 Memory failure (reseat or replace memory) • 1-3-4-3 Memory refresh test failure (reseat or replace memory) • 1-4-1-1 Memory refresh test failure (reseat or replace memory) • 2-1-2-3 BIOS error (replace BIOS chip or motherboard) • 2-2-3-1 IRQ problem (remove expansion cards or replace motherboard) 148

CHAPTER 7

Trouble Shooting

Windows problems Is your PC crashing?

NO

Do all your applications run slowly?

YES

Make sure your PC is free of viruses and spyware (see 6, below)

YES

NO YES

Is it a game that’s running slowly?

YES

Try reducing graphical detail settings (see 4)

NO

Launch a slow application and check your PC’s performance (see 2). Is it using up a lot of processing power or memory?

Check that Windows is up to date and that your memory and hard disks are error-free (see 1). Are there still problems?

YES

NO

YES

Contact the software company’s technical support department

You may need to upgrade your PC (see 3)

Seven steps to fixing your PC

¯

Test your memory using Memtest, which you can download for free from www.memtest86.com. If it finds any errors, you may need to replace some of your PC’s RAM. Contact your PC’s technical support line. It’s also worth checking that your hard disk has no errors by using the error-checking tool in Windows. Just right-click on the drive, choose Properties and click the Tool tab. Press the Check Now button. Finally, make sure that Windows has the latest updates. Open Automatic

¯}õ

Updates in the Windows Security Center, which is available in the Control Panel.

ä

If an application is running slowly, it’s worth finding out how much of your computer’s processing power and memory it’s using. Close all your other applications and press Ctrl-Alt-Del simultaneously to open the Windows Task Manager. In the Processes tab you’ll be able to see what percentage of your processor power and how much memory each

program is using (divide by 1,000 for a rough figure in megabytes). If it’s hogging all the processing power or most of your RAM and is still slow, your PC is struggling with this program.

ß

If your application needs more system resources, you may need to upgrade your PC. If you’re short on memory, an upgrade is relatively simple. Check your manual to see what kind of memory your PC accepts or go to www. crucial.com and use the system scanner.

CHAPTER 7

Trouble shooting Have you installed the latest drivers (see page 16) or software updates for your recent addition? Also check the status of your hardware using the Device Manager.

NO

YES

YES

NO

Have you installed any new software or hardware recently?

Uninstall or unplug your recent addition. Does this solve the problem?

NO

NO

Download the latest drivers and updates, install them and reboot your PC. Does this fix the problem?

YES

NO

Does your PC crash only while running specific applications?

Contact your PC vendor’s technical support

YES

Make sure you’ve installed the latest updates for the application. Also obtain the latest drivers for any appropriate hardware (see 7). Does this solve the problem?

Contact the manufacturer of the troublesome product, or return it to the retailer and swap it for an alternative

NO

Your PC could be overheating. Check the system temperature. Does this solve the problem?

4

Modern games can be incredibly demanding. If your graphics card is struggling, it will produce a low frame rate, which causes the game to pause and stutter. Run the game and find the graphics settings in the options menu. Try turning off anti-aliasing (AA) and anisotropic filtering (AF) first to see if this improves your frame rate. If not, reduce the resolution to 1,024x768 or lower. Make sure that you have the latest patches for your game and the latest drivers for your graphics card by going to Nvidia’s or ATI’s websites, or check your computer manufacturer’s site if you have built-in graphics.

NO

Try System Restore (see 5) or contact your PC vendor’s technical support

5

Your PC keeps a record of any changes made to its settings. If you encounter a problem, you can restore the settings from an earlier date. In Windows XP, the System Restore tool is under Programs, Accessories, System Tools. Vista users can simply type System Restore into Vista’s search box. Follow the instructions to restore your PC to the state it was in before your problem.

6

Slow performance may be a sign that your PC is running some undesirable software. This can include such nasties as viruses, privacy-invading spyware and annoying advertising

pop-ups. These programs can be grouped together under the term malicious software (or malware, for short). Run a virus scan to find any malware on your PC. If you don’t have anti-virus software, download AVG Free Edition from http://free.avg.com.

7

Check that you have the latest drivers for any hardware that’s responsible for running them. Update your graphics card drivers if your PC crashes when playing games or video; update sound card drivers to solve audio playback troubles; and find new TV tuner

151

CHAPTER 7

Trouble Shooting

Network problems Do you use a wired or wireless network connection?

WIRED

Does it connect to the network? (See page 154)

WIRELESS

NO

YES

Do other wired computers connect to the network? NO

YES

The adaptor in your PC is probably the problem. If it has ever worked, try System Restore (see page 14). If no improvement, replace network adaptor

Reboot your router and PCs. If this doesn’t fix it, your router is probably broken. Contact the manufacturer for support

Can you communicate with other computers and the internet? (See page 157)

YES

Your network is working. You have a problem with system performance or an application

NO

Disable your computer’s firewall. Does this help? YES

NO

You need to reconfigure your firewall

¯}ä

There is a problem with your PC. Try System Restore (see page 14). Otherwise try replacing your network adaptor

CHAPTER 7

Trouble shooting

Does it connect to the network? (See page 155)

YES

NO

Is the connection slow or intermittent?

NO

YES

Move closer to the router. Does this help?

YES

NO

Your network is working. You have a problem with system performance or an application

NO

Can you connect by plugging in a wired Ethernet cable? (See page 154)

You have a range problem. Try repositioning the router or changing the wireless channel. (See page 122)

YES

Change wireless settings and channel (see page 122). Does this help? NO

Do other wireless computers connect? YES

NO

NO

Reboot router and PCs. If there’s no improvement, your router is probably broken. Contact the manufacturer for support

The adaptor in your PC is probably the problem. If it has ever worked, try System Restore (see page 14). If this doesn’t work, replace the adaptor

Can you communicate with other computers and the internet? (See page 157)

153

CHAPTER 7

Trouble Shooting

HOW TO…

Connect a wired network A WIRED NETWORK connection problem is easier to diagnose than a wireless connection, as there’s a physical connection. Generally speaking, as long as this is plugged in correctly and there’s some indication that your adaptor is working, then your network is working. Before you do anything, reboot your computer and cycle the power on the router to make sure it’s not a minor fault. CHECK STATUS LIGHT ON PC Every network adaptor has status lights that show you whether the computer is connected to a network. Have a look at the back of your PC where the network cable is plugged in. If there’s a solid green light, this indicates that your computer is correctly connected to the network. If there isn’t, unplug the network cable by pressing the clip down and pulling backwards. Push the connector back into place until it clicks.

1

DIAGNOSE CABLE If your router’s port isn’t lit, remove the cable and plug it back in until it clicks. If there’s still no light, unplug the cable and plug it back into another port. If you see a light now, you have a faulty router port. If you don’t, unplug the cable from your PC and plug it into another network device in your home, then check the status lights. If you get a connection, there’s a problem with your PC’s network adaptor; if you don’t, there’s a problem with the cable and you should replace it.

3

CHECK STATUS LIGHT ON ROUTER Just as your PC has status lights, so does your router. There are usually status lights on the front of your router for every port. Find out which port your PC is plugged into by following its cable and looking at the port number (make sure it’s not plugged into the WAN port). Look for the

NETWORK ADAPTOR PROBLEM If you have a problem with your network adaptor, there are a couple of things that you can try. First, use Device Manager to find out if Windows is detecting your adaptor. If there’s a problem with it, download and reinstall the driver from your motherboard manufacturer’s website. If the problem persists, you may need to buy a new network adaptor. PCI and PCI Express adaptors should cost around £10 for PCs; CardBus or ExpressCard adaptors cost around £30 for laptops.

1

2

3

4

2

154

corresponding light on the front of the router: if it’s lit, you have a working connection.

4

CHAPTER 7

Trouble shooting

1

2

3

4

HOW TO…

Connect a wireless network WIRELESS NETWORKS ARE slightly harder to diagnose. These instructions assume that you’re using Windows’ wireless network manager; if you’re using software that came with your wireless adaptor, follow the manufacturer’s instructions to check the settings we mention. CHECK ADAPTOR IS INSTALLED Use Device Manager to make sure that your wireless adaptor is detected correctly and working. If it’s not in the list and it’s not built into your computer, unplug it and reconnect it. If your adaptor is connected properly but showing an error message next to it, try reinstalling the drivers. If this doesn’t work, you should try replacing the adaptor.

1

CHECK CONNECTION If your adaptor is working, check to see if it’s connected to a network. In Vista and Windows 7, open the Control Panel and click on the View network status and tasks link. Click Connect to a network, select Wireless from the Show drop-down menu and you should see the wireless network to which you’re connected at the top of the list. In Windows XP, go to the Control Panel and click on Network and Internet Connections. Click on the

2

Internet Connections link and double-click Wireless Network Connection. Click the View Wireless Networks button and the network to which you’re connected will be at the top. CHANGE WIRELESS NETWORK If you’re either not connected or you’re connected to a network that isn’t your own, you need to join your own network. From the wireless network list in Step 2, find your wireless network. If you can’t see it, click the Refresh button in Vista and Windows 7 (this looks like two arrows) or the Refresh network list link in XP. If you still can’t see your network, there’s a bigger problem and you should go back to the flowchart on page 152. Otherwise, doubleclick your network and enter the password you used when you first set up the router.

3

DELETE ALL PREVIOUS SETTINGS If you still can’t connect to your wireless network, you should delete all your previous network settings. In Vista and Windows 7, click on the Manage wireless networks link. Select each entry in the list and click Remove. In Windows XP, click Change advanced settings and then the Wireless Networks tab. Select every entry in the Preferred networks list one at a time and click Remove.

4

155

CHAPTER 7

Trouble shooting

HOW TO…

Check for other computers WHEN YOU’VE CHECKED that you’re connected to a network, you should check that you can see the computer that you want to talk to. Windows has built-in tools to do this. The most useful one is Ping, which simply lets you see if a remote computer will respond to your request. Here we’ll show you how to use this simple command. CHECK YOU CAN SEE YOUR ROUTER The first step is to make sure that you can communicate with your wireless router. Start a command prompt from the Start menu and type ipconfig, make a note of the Default Gateway address that’s listed. It should be something like 192.168.x.x. Type ping . If you get four Reply messages, it means that you’ve successfully connected to your router and your PC can see it.

1

messages, it means that you can communicate with that computer. CHECK COMMUNICATION WITH THE INTERNET You can also use the ping command to see if you can communicate with a web server on the internet. Some web servers are configured not to respond to ping requests, so you can only use this step on some servers. Google accepts ping requests, so it’s a good one to use. Type ‘ping www.google.com’. If you get four replies, your computer is connected to the internet properly. If you don’t, there’s a problem, and your router’s not connected to the internet.

3

CHECK YOU CAN COMMUNICATE WITH ANOTHER PC You can use the ping command to find out if you can communicate with another PC. To do this, you need to find out the other computer’s IP address. From a command prompt on the other computer, type ipconfig. Make a note of its IP address. On the original computer, type ping . If you get four Reply

MAKE SURE DNS IS WORKING You can verify if you have a connection to the internet by using a command that tests the Domain Name Service (DNS). This is the technology that converts the easy-to-remember web addresses we use into the IP addresses that computers use. If you’re not connected to the internet, this won’t work and your browser will be unable to connect to any websites. Type ‘nslookup www.google.com’. You should get a result that gives you a set of IP addresses listed under ‘Addresses:’. If you get an error message, it means that you’re not connected to the internet properly.

1

2

3

4

2

4

157

Glossary From ADSL to ZIF, we explain 100 key PC terms – with pictures 10/100Mbit/s See Ethernet. 10BASE-T See Ethernet. 64-BIT 64-bit processors have an extended instruction set, allowing them to process more data at once and access more memory. Only software that supports 64-bit extensions will benefit. 802.11b, 802.11g See WiFi. ADSL Asymmetric digital subscriber line, the commonest form of broadband. It works over existing BT phone lines, provided that the local exchange is ADSL-enabled. AGP Accelerated graphics port, a slot for graphics cards. Several versions of increasing speed and decreasing voltage were launched. Now superseded by PCI Express. ATA AT attachment. See IDE. ATAPI AT attachment packet interface. See IDE. ATHLON 64 AMD’s old mainstream processor, which was available in single- and dual-core (X2) versions. ATHLON X2 Dual-core processor based on the Phenom’s design and compatible with AM2 and AM3 motherboards. ATX POWER CONNECTOR This PSU connector supplies the PC’s motherboard. It was previously a 20-pin connector, but a 24-pin version started appearing on motherboards in 2005. A split connector is commonly provided to power either version.

ATX See Form Factor. BIOS Basic input/output system; configures your motherboard at startup and boots your PC. It’s stored on a flash memory chip and keeps its settings in the CMOS. BLANKING PLATE Used to cover unoccupied PC case cutouts. You must remove one to install a PCI, PCI Express or AGP expansion card. BTX See Form Factor. CARDBUS The 32-bit expansion slot most commonly found on laptop PCs, equivalent to the PCI slot on desktops. Now being superseded by ExpressCard. CAT5, CAT6 See Ethernet.

158

CELERON DUAL-CORE Budget dual-core processor based on the Core 2 Duo and compatible with LGA775 motherboards. CLOCK SPEED All computer components work in time with a clock signal. Each has a maximum speed, shown in megahertz (MHz) or gigahertz (GHz), at which it’s designed to run. Running the clock faster (overclocking) boosts performance, but can cause a PC to crash. CMOS Battery-backed memory where the BIOS stores its settings. Can be cleared using a jumper. COMPONENT VIDEO A high-quality analogue video connection using three cables.

DIRECTX Windows extensions from Microsoft that give games and other performance-hungry software fast access to hardware. Check that your PC has the latest version – currently DirectX 10 – installed. DRAFT-N A term used for wireless networking equipment based on the draft 802.11n standard. D-SUB Analogue monitor-to-graphics-card connection, also known as a VGA cable. DUAL-CHANNEL Refers to the capability of a processor or motherboard to access two DIMMs at once, thus improving system performance. DVB-T Digital Video Broadcasting – Terrestrial, a standard used by Freeview digital TV in the UK. DVI Digital visual interface. A monitor-tographics-card connection that can include digital and/or analogue signals. The commonest form, DVI-I, has both.

COMPOSITE VIDEO A basic-quality video connection using a single cable. CORE 2 Intel’s most common processor, available for LGA775 in mainstream Duo and Quad and premium Extreme versions. CORE i3, i5, i7 Intel’s latest processors have a completely new architecture and work in LGA1366 or LGA1156 motherboards. CPU Central processing unit, also known simply as a processor. CROSSFIRE ATI’s system for combining the power of two Radeon graphics cards in a single PC. Also see SLI. CRT Cathode ray tube. A conventional glass-tube monitor. DDR The type of memory used in many PCs, called double data rate because it runs twice as fast as its clock speed. Comes in several speeds, including PC2700 and PC3200. PC3200 DDR runs at 200MHz but is called 400MHz DDR because of its doubled effective speed. DDR2 The type of memory used in the majority of Pentium 4, Core 2, Athlon 64 and Phenom systems. Available in speeds from PC2-4200 (533MHz effective). DDR3 The type of memory used by newer Core i7 and Phenom systems. It’s available in speeds from PC3-6400 (800MHz), up to PC3-12800 (1,600MHz). DHCP Dynamic host configuration protocol. This allows PCs on a network to obtain their network configuration automatically from a DHCP server.

ETHERNET Non-specific networking term, today used to refer to any networking hardware using RJ45 plugs and one of a number of compatible standards including 10BaseT, 100BaseT and Gigabit Ethernet (GbE). Older 10/100Mbit/s hardware supports the two slower speeds, and runs reliably with the Category 5 (Cat5) grade of cable. Cat5e cables are needed for Gigabit Ethernet. EXPRESSCARD Expansion slot found on new laptop PCs, equivalent to PCI Express on desktops. Incompatible with CardBus. FAT32 See NTFS. FIREWALL Software or hardware designed to protect networks from hackers or from software that they control. FIREWIRE Also known as IEEE 1394 or i.Link. Fast data connection used by PCs, digital camcorders, external hard disks and more. The connector comes in four-pin and six-pin versions, the latter including pins to power one device from the other. A faster nine-pin version, known as FireWire 800, is backward-compatible.

FIRMWARE Software used by a hardware device and stored on a flash memory chip so that it can be upgraded, typically to improve compatibility. FLASH A type of memory chip that stores data permanently unless it is deliberately overwritten, a process known as flashing. FLOPPY POWER CONNECTOR A compact four-pin power connector for floppy drives.

FORM FACTOR Motherboards adhere to standards called form factors that dictate size and layout. The commonest are ATX and its compact relative microATX. BTX is Intel’s newest standard. Cases will support one or more form factors, telling you which motherboards can be fitted. FSB The frontside bus connects the processor and other parts of the system in older Intel systems. GIGABIT ETHERNET (GbE) See Ethernet. HEADER A group of pins on a motherboard where you can connect additional ports. USB and FireWire headers are the most common.

HYPERTRANSPORT AMD’s proprietary bus, which allows the processor to talk directly to other system components. IDE A common name for the ATA disk connector, strictly called ATAPI in its modern form, which supports a variety of devices. All three are also known as PATA (Parallel ATA), to distinguish them from SATA (Serial ATA). IEEE 1394 See FireWire. JUMPER A plastic-enclosed metal contact which is used to connect two pins to

configure a hardware device; for example, see Master. LGA775 Intel’s current processor socket, which has pins rather than holes. LGA775 is used by Pentium 4, Celeron and Core 2 processors. LGA1366 Intel’s current processor socket. An update to LGA775, designed for use with the Core i7 processors. LINE-IN Audio input for signal of standard ‘line-level’ volume (louder than microphone input). Usually light blue and takes a 3.5mm jack. LINE-OUT Audio output of standard ‘line-level’ volume. Usually lime green, and takes a 3.5mm jack. MASTER Two IDE devices can share a single cable, provided that one is configured as a master and the other as a slave. This is done using jumpers on the devices.

for graphics cards; short, slower x1 slots are for devices previously made for PCI. A slower card can be used in a faster slot. PENTIUM 4 Intel’s old range of processors, now obsolete. PENTIUM DUAL-CORE Dual-core processors based on the Core 2 Duo design and designed for use in LGA775 motherboards. PHENOM AMD’s processor is designed for Socket AM2+ and AM3 motherboards, but can work with some older Socket AM2 boards, too. Comes in quad-core (X4) and tri-core (X3) versions. Black Editions can be overclocked easily. PHENOM II An update to the Phenom, also designed for use with Socket AM2+ and AM3 motherboards, but can work with some older Socket AM2 boards, too. Comes in dual-core (X2), tri-core (X3) and quad-core (X4) versions. Black Editions can be overclocked easily. PHONO Hi-fi style interconnect, correctly known as an RCA jack and used for various audio and video connections. Red and white plugs are used for right and left audio channels, yellow for composite video.

MICROATX A compact mainstream motherboard form factor with a maximum size of 244x244mm. MINI CARD Generic term for a laptop’s internal expansion cards. MOLEX Common name for the four-pin power connector used by hard disks and other drives. It has yellow (12V), red (5V) and two black (ground) wires. NTFS Hard disk file system used by XP, Vista and other advanced versions of Windows. Replaces FAT32, as used by Windows 95, 98 and Me. OEM Original equipment manufacturer. Used to describe products intended for PC manufacturers rather than end users. Typically these will have minimal packaging and manuals. PATA See IDE. PCI A motherboard expansion slot used for all kinds of upgrade cards except graphics cards. Internal modems, TV tuners and sound cards generally use PCI. PCI EXPRESS (PCI-E) New expansion bus for all kinds of upgrades. Slots come in several lengths. Long, fast x16 slots are

POST Power-on self-test, performed by PCs when switched on, generating the text output that you see before Windows loads. Error messages are often displayed here, too. PRIMARY CHANNEL Most motherboards provide at least two IDE connectors for hard disks and other drives. The PC will boot from the master disk on the connector marked as the primary channel. The secondary channel is typically used for CD and DVD drives.

¯}¤

Glossary PS/2 CONNECTOR Used for keyboards and mice, although these now often connect via USB. PSU Power supply unit. Refers to the device inside a PC that converts mains electricity and distributes it to the system’s components, and also to the external mains adaptors supplied with some peripherals. QUICKPATH INTERCONNECT Intel’s proprietary bus, which lets the processor talk directly to other system components. RAID Redundant array of inexpensive disks: a way of storing data on several hard disks to improve performance, or to provide a backup if one disk fails, or both. Modern motherboards support RAID on their PATA or SATA ports. RF Radio frequency, referring to the coaxial cable connection of TV antennas. An RF signal carries many video channels, while S-video and composite carry only one.

RJ45 Plug used for Ethernet network cables, with eight wires. Larger than, but often mistaken for, RJ11. SATA The Serial ATA interface is used for modern hard disks because it’s faster and neater than PATA (Parallel ATA). The original SATA ran at 150MB/s, but the current standard has a 300MB/s mode, compared to PATA’s maximum of 133MB/s. SDRAM The memory type used by most Pentium II and Pentium III PCs.

SECONDARY CHANNEL See Primary Channel. SERIAL PORT Old, slow port rarely used today but still present on some motherboards as a nine-pin connector.

SLAVE See Master. SLI Nvidia’s system for combining the power of two GeForce graphics cards in one PC. Also see CrossFire. SOCKET 478 Intel’s previous-generation processor socket, used by Intel’s old Pentium 4 and Celeron processors. SOCKET M Socket for Intel’s original mobile Core and Core 2 Duo Mobile processors. It has since been replaced with the newer Socket P. SOCKET P Socket used by Intel’s latest Core 2 mobile processors. It has the same number of pins as Socket M, but isn’t backwards-compatible. SOCKET 939 Socket used by AMD’s Athlon 64 processors, including dual-core X2 versions. Supports processors with a dual memory controller. SOCKET AM2 AMD’s processor socket, which supports DDR2. Used by Athlon 64, Athlon FX and Sempron processors. Very similar to Socket 939, with one extra pinhole. SOCKET AM2+ A newer AMD processor socket, which supports PC-8500 DDR2 memory and the Phenom range of processors. Backwards-compatible with older processors. SOCKET AM3 AMD’s latest processor socket, which supports DDR3 memory

and the latest Phenom II processors. This socket is not backwards-compatible with older AM2 or AM2+ processors. S-VIDEO An average-quality analogue video connection with a four-pin cable. TV-OUT Generic analogue output used for connection to a TV. Includes S-video and composite. USB Universal serial bus. These ports are used to connect all manner of external devices. USB2 is the latest version and supports Hi-Speed 480Mbit/s transfers. VIVO Video in, video out. A connector on graphics cards that combines video inputs and outputs. Usually has a breakout cable that maps the pins to standard S-video, component or composite video connectors.

WEP Wired equivalent privacy. An encryption standard used to secure wireless networks. Comes in various strengths up to 256 bit, all weaker than WPA (below). WIFI Name used collectively for the IEEE 802.11 wireless networking standards, including the 11Mbit/s 802.11b and 54Mbit/s 802.11g standards. WPA WiFi protected access. An encryption standard used to secure wireless networks more reliably than WEP. WPA2 is the latest version of the encryption standard ZIF Zero insertion force: a processor socket where the chip is clamped using a lever.

THE COMPLETE PC UPGRADES HANDBOOK 2011 EDITORIAL Editor

MANAGEMENT MagBook Manager

David Ludlow

Dharmesh Mistry Publishing Director John Garewal Production Director Robin Ryan Managing Director of Advertising Julian Lloyd-Evans Newstrade Director Martin Belson Chief Operating Officer Brett Reynolds Group Finance Director Ian Leggett Chief Executive James Tye Chairman Felix Dennis

Production Steve Haines Design and layout Colin Mackleworth

COVER ILLUSTRATION Ian Naylor

PHOTOGRAPHY Danny Bird, Jan Cihak, Linda Duong, Pat Hall, Timo Hebditch, Andrew Ridge, Hugh Threlfall

Digital Production Manager Nicky Baker

¯Øõ

MAGBOOK

LIABILITY

The MagBook brand is a trademark of Dennis Publishing Ltd, 30 Cleveland St, London W1T 4JD. Company registered in England. All material © Dennis Publishing Ltd, licensed by Felden 2010, and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the consent of the publishers. ISBN 1-907232-42

While every care was taken during the production of this MagBook, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information or any consequence arising from it. Dennis Publishing takes no responsibility for the companies advertising in this MagBook. The paper used within this MagBook is produced from sustainable fibre, manufactured by mills with a valid chain of custody.

LICENSING

Printed by BGP, Bicester, Oxon

To license this product, please contact Winnie Liesenfeld on +44 (0) 20 7907 6134 or email [email protected]