A Residence of Eight Years in Persia among the Nestorian Christians with Notices of the Muhammedans 9781463211479

Citation preview

E I G H T YEARS I N PERSIA

MUHAMMED SHAH, KING OF PERSIA Those learned men must be held in honor, p. 397

A

RESIDENCE OI'

E I G H T Y E A R S IN PERSIA, AMONG

THE

NESTORIAN

CHRISTIANS;

W I T H NOTICES

THE

BY R E V .

OP

MUHAMMEDANS.

JUSTIN

PERKINS.

•V GORGIAS PRESS

2006

First Gorgias Press Edition, 2006. Copyright © 2006 by Gorgias Press LLC. All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. Published in the LTnited States of America by Gorgias Press LLC, New Jersey. This edition is a facsimile reprint of the original edition.

ISBN 1-59333-410-9

This edition is based on digitized images kindly provided by Mr. David Malick.

GORGIAS PRESS 46 Orris Ave., Piscataway, NJ 08854 USA www.gorgiaspress.com

Printed in the LTnited States of America

TO A M O T H E R , WHO, IN WIDOWHOOD, AGE, INFIRMITY AND DEPENDENCE, GAVE H E R SON TO T H E MISSIONARY W O R K ,

THIS VOLUME 18 AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED BY

THAT SON.

PREFACE.

IT never appeared to me a reality, that I might again tread the soil of my native country, greet kindred and acquaintances and worship with them in the great congregation, until we had embarked at Smyrna, on our return to the United States. While the prospect could not be otherwise than grateful, it was not wholly unattended with embarrassment. How should the missionary, so long immured in the deep darkness of benighted Persia, and accustomed to the use of strange languages, meet again the noon-day light of a christian land, and attempt to address the churches in his native tongue, so many years unused by him for such a purpose 1 Recollecting that primitive missionaries, whose footsteps I had imperfectly endeavored to follow, when, in one case, brought back by Providence to the place from whence they had been recommended to the work which they fulfilled, " rehearsed all that God had done with them and how he had opened tjpe door of faith unto the Gentiles," I, too, hastily glanced, in reminiscence, over my missionary course ; but my retrospect, instead of a few months, like theirs, embraced a period of between eight and nine years. And on referring to my notes to select a few incidents, I found the mass, which had been gradually accumulating on my hands, during my residence in Persia, so large and miscellaneous, that it was no easy matter to make such a selection. Thus engaged, the idea occurred to me, of copying out portions of those notes for future use; and the rather, as I had no particular employment laid out for the voyage. The result is this volume, which is made up of a simple record of facts

vi

PREFACE.

and observations, given, to n considerable extent, as they were originally recorded, amid the scenes whence they were drawn. I copied about one-fourth of the volume, on our homeward passage. My circumstances, after reaching this country, could hardly have been more unfavorable for prosecuting the task, remaining, as I did, but a day or two in a place, with two exceptions of a week, during the first nine months, and being called upon, almost constantly, to attend public meetings, in company with the Nestorian bishop who came with me. I have sometimes written an hour at a public house, while waiting for a stage-coach; at other times, in the cabin of a steamer, among scores of passengers; and have often revised my manuscript, while travelling in rail-road cars. As the labor, however, has been mostly that of filling out notes previously on hand, I have, of course, felt the inconvenience of these circumstances, less than if my matter had been wholly unprepared. While my work in Persia has been principally among the Nestorians, who, together with our mission to them, are the prominent subjects of this volume, my intercourse with the Mühammedans of that country, has been habitually familiar; and notices of that class are introduced almost as extensively as of the native Christians. And though my object and labors have been strictly missionary, my observations have been general, and such also to a considerable extent, are ihe contents of this volume. It would have been easy to fill it, from so .rich a field as Persia, with matter suited to the taste of the mere scholar. Indeed, the American or Englishman, in that country, meets, in the Persian language, so many familiar acquaintances, that he can hardly avoid dwelling on its resemblance to his own, a prototype of which it so clearly is,—or more immediately of the German ; and he is little less delighted with the similarity of their construction than the coincidence of common words. It would also have been easy to prepare the volume for the use of the civil historian: or, make it a collection of general statistics. But I have intended rather to combine miscellany and incident with accurate, missionary and general information, in the hope of thus rendering the work more acceptable to different classes of readers, and more useful to the cause which it primarily seeks to promote. From that vast and varied

PREFACE.

vii

forest, in which I have so long lived and ranged, I have desired to cull a few leaves, of all the different colors, descriptions and sizes, and so group them together, that the reader may see them in some measure as the author saw them, and be furnished with a correct miniature of that forest; while I would keep him constantly reminded, however, of the great object that carried me thither, and informed respecting the prosperity and progress of that object. Some brief portions of the* Journal, have appeared in the form of extracts, in the Missionary Herald ; but not enough, it is believed, to impair the interest of their perusal, as here introduced in a connected, modified and fuller form. T h e narrative style is mostly adopted for reasons that will appear in the perusal. T h e fact that no American was ever a resident in that ancient and celebrated country before me, and the position which the Nestorian church now occupies in the sympathies of Christendom, and its relation to the prospective extension of the Redeemer's kingdom, are circumstances which will, perhaps, tend to impart a somewhat special interest to this volume. Every writer on Eastern countries feels the difficulty of being accurate, where there is so little intellectual discipline and still less mora! principle. This volume is, however, so much the result of personal observation, as to be little affected by those difficulties, except that a growing conviction, that the statements of orientals are not in general to be trusted, has made me the mofe careful to become personally acquainted with the facts, in all cases. Mar Yoharihan, moreover, having been with me, in this country, during my preparation of the matter for the press, I have referred to him, on any points respecting which I had doubt. I do not, after all, claim for the work entire freedom from errors. T h e accompanying map is constructed, to a considerable extent, from personal observations ; but much assistance has been derived from the map of Smith and Dwight and from that of Mr. Southgate. For its successful execution, I am indebted to Mrs. Alonzo Gray of Andover. A difficulty is often felt By readers, in using maps of detached interior regions, with only the aid of degrees of latitude and longitude, in the absence of prominent and familiar objects, to fix the relative situation. To»meet this difficulty, I have placed the corners of the map upon the well-known waters of the

viii

PREFACE.

Mediterranean, Black and Caspian Seas, and the Persian Gulf ; points that naturally embrace the countries in which I have travelled and the scenes of 6ur missionary operations.—The colored plates were originally drawn by a Persian artist, under my supervision. They will impart a very good idea of the varieties of costume and the general appearance of the respective classes. T h e portrait of the Shàh of Persia is copied from one engraved in England, and that of Mar Yohannan, from one taken in this country. — T h e eastern view of Mt. Ararat was sketched by Mrs. Perkins, and the western, by myself.—The device, on the back of the volume, is the emblem of the Trinity, as mentioned on page 384, and the name, trinity (Tlìtayóotha,) in the Nestorian character of the Syriac language.—A table of contents is prefixed, and 3 glossary of foreign words is added at the close of the volume.—A list of the engravings, and tables of marks of accent and pronunciation, the measures of distance and the names and value of Persian coin, are supplied, after the table of contents.—The meaning of foreign words and phrases is given in the text, where they occur in the first instance, and in some cases, repeatedly.—The marks of accent and pronunciation of foreign words are generally supplied, though not in all cases, throughout the volume ; and if there be any doubt, where they are omitted, such words will be found properly marked, as well as defined, by reference to the glossary. I am happy to acknowledge my obligation to the Rev. R . Anderson, D. D., one of the respected secretaries of the A. B. C. F . M., and to my esteemed friend and former instructor, thè Rev. Prof. N. W . Fiske, of Amherst College, for valuable advice, in relation to the preparation of this work. But if it shall prove acceptable to the reader, it will be especially owing to the unwearied aid of another esteemed college teacher and friend, the Rev. Pro£ B. B, Edwards, of the Theological Seminary at Andover, who has kindly taken the trouble to revise my copy and assist me in Correcting the proofs, and whose familiar acquaintance with oriental countries and subjects, and experience as an author and an editor, are of course a sufficient Warrant, that no work of the kmd could pass under his supervision, without material benefit. The preparation of the volume, with all the circumstances of inconvenience attending it, has been to me, a pleasant task,—living

PREFACE.

ix

over, as it has led me to do, several of my past years, fraught with reminiscences at once painfully interesting and delightful. And carrying it through the press has been particularly agreeable, on this favored hill of Zion, amid the hallowed recollections of theological study and endeared companions of by-gone years, and often greeted by the familiar countenances of venerated instructors. Nor should I omit to mention my intercourse with the gentlemanly and obliging publishers, as a circumstance that has contributed not a little to render my task agreeable. H o w they have performed their part of the work, it will bear testimony for itself. T h e volume is submitted to the public with diffidence, but with the prayer and hope, that it may subserve the interests of that cause which has given it existence, and to which the life of the author is devoted. My task being finished, I now turn my thoughts,- and hope soon again to turn my face, toward the distant clime and people of my adoption. Andover, Jan. 1843.

CONTENTS.

C H A P T E R

I.

G E N E R A L S K E T C H OF THE N E S T O R I A N

CHRISTIANS.

TKE Nestorians, a small r e m n a n t , — n o t destitute of interest.—Formerly n u merous.—Missionary zeal.—Lineal origin. —Conversion to Christianity.— Origin as a christian sect.-—Location.—The Koordish mountains.—Oroom i a h . — T h e wild character of the inhabitants of the mountains.— .Probable n u m b e r of the N e s t o r i a n s . — L a n g u a g e . — L i t e r a t u r e . — G e n e r a l character.— Religious character.—Ecclesiastical organization.—Hopes of their reformation.—Papal efforts to proselyte t h e m . — I m p o r t a n c e of their receiving efficient aid from Protestant Christians.—Their prospective influence in the spread of the gospel and the conversion of the world, . . Page 1

C H A P T E R

II.

ORIGIN AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE M I S S I O N TO THE N E S T O R I A N S .

Report of Messrs. S m i t h and D w i g h t . — A p p o i n t m e n t to the field.—Missionary I n s t r u c t i o n s . — T h e Board a Society for observation.—-Location of the mission.—First objects of attention.—The S c r i p t u r e s the standard.—Need of wisdom from above.—The M o h a m m e d a n s and t h e P a p i s t s . — T h e c h u r c h will a w a k e . — S e v e r e sickness.—Embarkation, . . . . 25 C H A P T E R VOYAGE

TO

III.

MALTA.

Disagreeable circumstances of a voyage.—Its a d v a n t a g e s to missionaries.— Circumstances of our embarkation.—Journal at sea.—Sea-sickness of the ladies.—Equinoctial storm.—My rapid r e c o v e r y . — T h e porpoises.—Commotion in the c a b i n . — T h e Sabbath.—Sunset.—Moon-light at sea.—Americans unfit for cabin-boys.—Economizing t i m e . — T h e black-fish.—The land b i r d . — T h e turtle.—The dolphins.-Exercise.—Phosphoretic g e m s . — M o n t h ly concert.—A fair wind.—Reading A b e r c r o m b i e . — T e a c h i n g the ladies' G r e e k . — T h e pilot-fish.—View of the W e s t e r n Islands.—Reproof of the cabin-boy for swearing.—Profaneness of seamen. —Superstition and ignorance of the cabin-boy and cook.—Mother C a r e y ' s chickens,—First sight of the Old W o r l d . — S h o r e s of Gibraltar Straits.—Pillars of H e r c u l e s . — L a n d s of d a r k n e s s . — F e e l i n g of increased s e c u r i t y - R e c e n t disaster.—Excursion in the boat.—Sunrise at sea,—Island of Galata.— Site of a n c i e n t Carthage.—Island o f Z e m b l a — I s l a n d of Pan talaria.—Arrival at M a l t a . — T h e pilot.—The t o w - b o a t s — Q u a r a n t i n e . — P r a t i q u e . — L a Valetta.—Cleanliness of the city.— Cheapness of living,—Splendid churches.—Number of beggars and priests.— S t r e n g t h of the capital.—Troops.—Influence of the government.—Missionaries of.the London and C h u r c h Missionary Societies.—Preparation of the Nestorian spelling-book, 35

xii

CONTENTS.

C H A P T E R

IV.

VOYAGE FROM M A L T A TO CONSTANTINOPLE.

Passage in a G r e e k vessel.—Meeting an acquaintance.—Regulations on board. — A n i m a l s on board.—Cargo.—Southern extremity of Greece.—Timidity of G r e e k s e a m e n . — A conversation with the captain.—Greek estimation of American character.—Infidelity among the Greeks.—-Went on shore.—The cabin-boy's spelling-book-Double Cape Malea.— Notice of the islands.—Arrival at Syra.—Description of the place,—Meeting with missionary friends.— Services at the G r e e k c h u r c h . — T h e schools.—A Greek baptism.—Athe c n e u m and L y c e u m . — T h e upper 'town.—A severe storm.—Voyage continued.—Islands ravaged by the T u r k s . — T h e Dardanelles.—Muhammedan s u m m o n s to prayers.—The Marmora.—Worship of saints.—Arrival at Constantinople.—First impressions of the city.—Going on shore, . . 52 C H A P T E R

V.

C O N S T A N T I N O P L E , AND VOYAGE THENCE TO T R E B I Z O N D .

T h e interior appearance of Constantinople.—Object of our temporary stay t h e r e . — A r m e n i a n reformer.—New Year's day.—Commodore Porter.—The a n n u a l c o n c e r t . - H o h a n n e s and Senacherim.-Bazars.—Hyppodrome.—The S u l t f t n — A r m e n i a n funeral.—Lyceum.—A conflagration.—The Bosphorus. A n o t h e r conflagration.—Turkish firemen—Small value attached to life.— A n American wedding.—Attendance of the S u M n at the mosk.—Boats.— T u r k i s h schools in the barracks.—Chaldcedon.—Scutari.—The great cemetery.—Excursion.—Bttyuk Dercli.—Giant's mountain.—The Muhammedan Joshua.—Intelligence from Persia.—Letters from Sir John Campbell and Mr. H a a s . — D e a t h of the Prince Royal —Leaving Constantinople.— Beating u p the Bosphorus.—The vessel run aground.—Capt. G r e y . — D a n gers of the Black Seti.—Expedients of the natives to procure a fair wind. — M u t u a l hostilities o f t h e Muhammedan sects.—Reverence for the Koran. T u r k i s h and Persian ideas of the New World.—Pilgrimages.—M&hammedan devotions.--Metamorphosis of the interpreter.—View of Trebizond from the sea.—Arrival.—Increased communication with Constantinople, . 70 C H A P T E R

VI.

T R E B I Z O N D , AND J O P R N E Y THENCE TO E R Z R O O M .

European residents.—Situation.—Population.—Climate.—The French consul.—Rudeness of the people.—The Armenian priests.—Sabbath.—Armenian school. — New Testaments.—Shorter r o u t e . — T r a v e l l i n g accoutrem e n t s . — A r r a n g e m e n t o f t h e loads.—Their size.—Mrs. Perkins's saddle.— T h e three different r o u t e s . - L e a v i n g the c i t y . - R u r a l scenery .-Valley-lords. Scripture illustrations.—Riding in the night.—Lodging under a tent.'—Javislik—Provisions.—Ascending a mountain.—KaraliapAn.—Sublime scene r y . — L o f t y table-land.—Madden.—Kroom.—The Kroomlée.—Hamlets in the glen.—Apprehension from the Laz.—Steep descent.—Armoot.—Tekeh.—Its minaret.—The caravan system.—The Sabbath.—Primitive habits and occupations of the people.—Their degradation.—Duplicity of the muleteer.—Roads.—Flowers.—Turkish taste.—Prejudice against the Russians, and regard for Americans. — Cowardice of Armenians. — Agriculture.— Utensils.—Dread of the troops.—Enter Armenia.—Stages shorter in s u m mer than in winter.—Baibôot.—Attentions from the Pashft.—Valley o f t h e Jôrokh.—Mining village. —Soda-spring.—Plain of Erzroom.—Sabbath.— Arrival at Erzroom, 87

xiii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER

VII.

ERZROOM, AND JoiJRNEr THENCE TO ERIVAN. Retrospect.—Antiquity of Erzroom —Ruins.—Commerce.—Russian Invasion.—Persian agent.—Arrival of the English party from Persia.—Koordish disturbances.—Embarrassed circumstances.—The Pashii's c a r r i a g e Changes of customs and costumes required in Persia.—Troops.—Expedition against the Koords.—Face of the country between Erzroom and Persia. —Armenian villages. — Journey resumed.—Thunder storm.—Hassan-kUlilah —Conference with the Pash/L—Change of route.—Lost son restored.— A forest.—Kars.—Fertility of its plain.—Wedding-day.—Crossing the boundary.—GUmry.—Quarantine.—Embarrassments there and at the custom-house—Boorish conduct of the custom-house officers.—Detention of effects.—Journey resumed.—Arrival at ErivSn.—Mt. Ararat, 111

CHAPTER

VIII.

JoURNEF FROM ERIVAN TO TABREEZ. T o w n of Erivftn.—Plain—Valley of the Arras.—Armenian priest.—English credit.—Evening view of Ararat.—St. Gregory's prison.—Separation from oar tent.—Takvoor's cowardice.—Great heat.—NakchevSn — River A r r i s . Detention.—Embarrassed situation.—Liberation.—Russian inhospitality.— Letter from the English ambassador.—Takt-ra\van.—Narrow escape —Mor6nd.—Dr. Riach.—Recollections of M a r t y n — A r r i v a l at Tabrtez.—Mrs. Perkins's distressing sickness.—Kindness of English f r i e n d s . — F e m a k fortitude, > 120

CHAPTER

IX.

TABREEZ. Persia.—Boundaries.— P r o v i n c e s — Names.—Physical features. — Mines.— Forests—AzerbijSn.—Tabrioz.—Meaning of the name.—Situation.—Elevation and climate.—Population.— R e m n a n t s of antiquity.-—Commerce.— Manufactures.—Armory.—Personal appearance of the Persians, their character.—Civilization in Tabreez.—Advantages as a missionary station.— T h e diiTerent classes.—The houses in P e r s i a — L u x u r y . — T r a v e l l i n g in Georgia.—Bribes.—Character of the officers in that country.—The heirapparent.—His character and prospects.—Exhibition of throwing bombs.—• Appearance of the heir-apparent—Reports of the Nestorians becoming Catholics.—Distribution of the Scriptures among Papists.—Mr. H a a s ' s letter to the Patriarch, 143

CHAPTER

X.

JOURNEY TO OROOMIAH. Object of the journey.—Preparations.—Companions.—Ali Shflh.—Mirage.— Funeral.—Lodgings.—Ideas of A m e r i c a — P e r s i a n p o l i t e n e s s . — T r a d e Abraham's contract.—Presents.—Lake.—Deezeh-khaltel.—Kuza-khandh. Massacre of A r m e n i a n s — I s l a n d s of the lake.—Kara-tapA.—SalmSs.— Khosrovd.—Georgian prince —Civility of the Catholic bishop — Crossing the mountains by n i g h t — A young Nestorian adventurer. —Sleepiness, remedy for it—GavaWn.—Reception.— 1 The Patriarch Elias —The bishop's offer to go to Tabreez.—Decision of the question by lot.—Plain of Oroom i a h — C i t y of O r o o m i a h — A r r i v a l . — L o d g i n g s — C h u r c h . — M a r Gabriel. Visit to the Patriarch Elias.—Gratifying reception, . 165

xiv

CONTENTS. C H A P T E R

XI.

V I S I T A T OROOMIAH AND R E T U R N TO T A B R E E Z .

A visit from M a r Elias.—His reputed learning.—The governor.—The Moollilhs.—Present f r o m the governor.—Evening devotions.—Gardens.—Beautiful scenery.—Priest Abraham.—Pious talk.—A little boy.—Ardishdi.— A n o t h e r visit with the Patriarch.—Diish-oghiil.—Sheitin-abiid.—Dole.— SOldooz.—Negliadeh.— Persian prince.—Votive pledges.—The Koords.— Koordish tribes and dialccts.—Missionary efforts for them.— Soda-springs. —Village on fire.—Prairie on fire.—Russian officer murdered.—Chillcek. —Yoolgitnlee.— Presents from the field.—MaraghA.—Tomb of Hoolakoo K h a n . — A p p r e h e n s i o n s of the people.—Koordish horseman.—Marble quarries.—Ueh-khorg;\n.—Arrival at Tabreez.—The bishop and priest at our table.—At our devotions, . 182 C H A P T E R

XII.

R E S I D E N C E AT T A B R E E Z .

D e a t h of the k i n g . — A usurper.—Disorders.—Solitary situation.—Presents from Oroomiah.—The young king's approach to the capital.—Surrender of rivals.— Coronation.—Means by which he secured the throne.—Aid of the English ambassador.—General Lindsley.—The bishop's interpretation of parables.—The press in Persia.—Letter of the bishop and priest.—Festival of Noo-rose.—Last rival conquered.—Bishop and priest visit their f r i e n d s Corpses carried to Kerbula,—Persian prince.—Italian play-actors.—Fireworks.—Celebration of Moharrein.—Return of the bishop and priest.—Preservation of tears.—Syriac teachers.—Nestorian ideas of the firmanent.— Mr. Haas's M u h a m m e d a n school, .. 200 C H A P T E R

XIII.

A R R I V A L OF A S S O C I A T E S .

J o u r n e y to Erzroom.—Koords.—-Meeting associates.—Plague and cholera.— Desirableness of a mission at Erzroom.—New English ambassador.—English protection.—Russian policy towards Protestant missions.— German mission at Shoosha.—Colony at Carrass.—Converts of the Greek church. — Ignorance of Russian peasants.—New Ukase.—Turkish language.—Nestorian priest t e a c h i n g English,—Preparation for removal to Oroomiah.— Intemperance in Persia.—Moans of intoxication.—Prevalence among all classes.—Its effects.—Difficulties in the way of its removal, . 212 C H A P T E R -

XIV.

R E M O V A L TO OROOMIAH.

Leaving Tabreez.—-Annoyance at our lodgings.—Arrival at GavaMn.—Welcome from the Nestorians.—Ride in the rain.—Arrival at Oroomiah.—Attention from the governor.—The bishop and priest.—Presentation of a boy. —Persian compliments.—Visit to the governor.—A Nestorian wedding.— W i n e in P e r s i a . — W e d d i n g fees.—Extract from the marriage service.— Visit to Mar Gabriel..—His rudeness.—A priest from the mountains.— Need of more laborers.—Need of a Press, . . " . . . . 227 C H A P T E R

XV.

S T A T E OF THE F I E L D .

Religious character a n d condition of the people.—Spiritually dead.—Tenacious of forms.—lmriiofalities.—Apologies for it.—Education.—School-

CONTENTS.

XV

room.—Dedication.—Commencement of the seminary.—Mar Joseph.— Sabbath service.—Fasts.—An unreasonable mother.—I'riest Yohannan.— E v e n i n g prayer-meetings.—Scripture interpretation.— Commencement of translating the. Bible.—Abstinence from wine.—Apprehension of danger.— Mfihammedans of Oroomiah.—Lontte.—Efforts of English gentlemen to promote our security.—Letters from Dr, Riach and Sir John Campbell, 246

CHAPTER XVI. JOURNAL : M A R C H — J U L Y ,

1836.

Visit from the G e r m a n missionaries.—Priest Zadoc.—Communion service.— Letter to the Patriarch.—Duplicity of Persian character.—Saudoc,a second Jlajee Babs.—Examination of tlie seminary.—Visit to GSog-tapii,—Muhaminedan wedding,—Persian ease of manners.—Entertainment.—Pilftv.— Recreations.—Summer palace.—Bastinadoing.—Mar Gabriel.—The flamingo.—Mar Joseph.—Visit from Mr. Merrick.—Beautiful scenery.—Mounds of the fire-worshippers.—Traditions of St. T h o m a s . — B u r n i n g of a Jew.— Letter from the Patriarch.—Muhammed's teacher.—Seizure of a Nestorian girl.—Jesuit efforts.—Ride to Barandooz.—Taxes—.Sources of r e v e n u e Oppressive nobility, . . . . . . . . . 262

CHAPTER XVII. JOURNAL:

AUGUST—DECF.MHER,

1836.

Public celebrntion.—Royal bride.—Female decorations.—Education.—Hatred of the Nestorians towards the M&hammednns.—Mock-lamentation.—Sickness.—Unhealthy climate.—Favor from government.—Prince's tirmAn.— Seclusion of females.—Visit to villages -—Attack by the Lootce.—Punishment inflicted on the assailant by the governor.—Increased security in consequence.—Wedding of the governor's s o n . — P o l y g a m y — Mohammedan marriages.—Electrical machine.—Muhammedan devotions.—Science in Persia.—Metaphysics.—Alchemy.—Freemasonry .—Seven heavens.— Dunka.—Class in Hebrew.—Oppression of the Jews.—Expectation of the Messiah.—Hostility between the Nestorians and the J e w s , . . 282

CHAPTER XVIII. JOURNAL : JANUARY—JUNE,

1837.

School of the Persian prince.—A clerical party.—-Malek Mansoor Meerza,— A Papal emissary.—Discussions.—Appeal to a Moollah — Result of the discussions.—A bishop's turban stolen.—Priest Zadoc.—His vanity to be thought learned.—Visit from a H;\jee.—Journey to Erzroom.—Mar Yoh a n n a n ' s decision to go with me.—Ooliih.—Aged priest.-—Khoy.—Caravanserai.—Koordish c h u r n . — M t . Ararat, ascent impracticable,— Genoese fortifications.—Mar Yohannan's colloquial powers.—Yezid6ez.—Armenian Papists.—White birches.—Arrival at Erzroom.—Meeting associates. — R e t u r n to Oroomiah.—Meeting the G e r m a n missionaries.—Reasons for their leaving Persia.—Kind of laborers needed.—Call for indirect labor among the M a h a m m e d a n s , 300

CHAPTER XIX. JOURNAL : J U L Y — D E C E M B E R ,

1837.

Fourth of July.—Visit from Dr. R i a c h — D e c l a m a t i o n in the Seminary.— Visit from Mr. Southgate.—The " milky w a y . " — P r i m i t i v e customs, among the' Nestorians.—Illustrations of the Bible.— Grape harvest.—Women laboring in the field.—Excursion to Ardisluli.—Earthen ware factory.—Bathing

xvi

CONTENTS.

in the lake.—Royal orders.—Note from the Prince.—Letter o f M a r Y o h a n nan to the Syrian Christians —Statistics. —Excitement.—Visit from the Prince.—His schools.—Friendly intercourse.—Dining with the Prince.— Peter Parley's Geography.—Nestorian ideas of his wisdom.—Nestorian literature. . . . . 316

CHAPTER XX. JOURNAL: JANUARI—SEPTEMBER,

1838.

Influence of Scripture tracts.—Donation to the Tract Society.—Pecuniary aid from English gentlemen.—Preaching to the Nestorians.-—Revival of missionary efforts.—Nestorian Chronology.—Ornaments worn by Nestorian females.—Apprehension of the Nestorians that we should send their children to the New World.—Female school.—Interesting traits of character. Spiritual death.—An ordination.—The royal campaign against Heriit.—Antiquities.—Withdrawal of the English from Persia.—A sudden death.—Mohammedan mourning and funeral..—Baptism of missionary children.—Trying circumstances of the children of missionaries.—Objects of deep interest and of hope.—They should be the subjects of fervent prayer among the churches, . . . . . . . . . . 330

CHAPTER XXI. JOURNAL: OCTOBER—DECEMBER,

1838.

Political uncertainties.—Want of pecuniary means.—Papal emissaries.—Rev. W m . Glen.—Catholic deacon.—Receiving a hundred fold—Deacon Joshua. —Chaldean vagrants in England.—Mar Joseph's excursion into Georgia.— Encouraging contrast.—Conservative policy to be pursued by the missionaries to the Eastern churches.—Zeal for forms.—Intercourse of Episcopalians with Mar Yohannan.—Article from the Churchman.—Mar Yohannan's reply.—Christian fellowship.—Harmony among missionary societies and their missionaries, . . . . . . 34G

CHAPTER XXII. JOURNAL : JANUARY—JUNE,

1839.

Death of Mrs. Grant.—Letter to the ambassador.—Letter from him.— Russian protection.— Changes at Tabrfeez.—Armenian reformation.— Orders from the king.—Concern of Mar Joseph.—Mar Elias reading the epistles.—Health-retreat at Gavalftn.—Interruption.—Abuse of Mar Yohannan.—Imprisonment of his father.—Extortion.—Mar Sergis.—Cure of lunatics.—A Koordish Pash&.—Visit from him.-—Persian prince and nobles. —European costume.—Sign of the Trinity..—John's question book, 368

CHAPTER XXIII. JOURNAL : A U G U S T — D E C E M B E R ,

1839.

Death of a child.—Lines by Mr. Merrick.—A Persian Meerza preaching the gospel.—Prince-governor's rigor.—A mob.—Packet robbed..—The medical profession in Persia.—Governor's summer hamlet -—Priest Dunka preaching in the mountains.—Tract on Papacy.—Visit to ArdisMi.—Salt on the shore of the lake.—Mineral springs.—Importance of scientific knowledge to missionaries.—Rescue of Mar Gabriel from the Papists.—Letter from Malek Kftsem Meerza.—Order from the king.—Addressing superiors.—Letter to the prince.—Providential protection.—Indications of piety.—Prohibition of wine-drinking, , 385

xvii

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIV. JOURNAL : J A N U A R Y — M A R C H ,

1840.

Note from Herat.—Visit from an English gentleman.—English influence in Afghanistan.—Mdhammedan school.—Death of priest Dunka's brother.— Funeral.—Death of children in the mission.—Death of WM. Riach.—Sympathy of the natives.—Mortality of native children.—Longevity in Persia less than in America.—Death of priest Dunka's wife.—Nestorian burial.— Service at the grave.—Extempore prayer.—Religious feeling.—Letters from priests Abraham and Dunka, received in America.—Mar Sleeva, hiB ignorance.— Narrations of an adventurer.—Priest Dunka's education.—The Stork.—The Nestorian creed.—Proposition to translate the Liturgy, 402

CHAPTER XXV. JOURNAL: MARCH—SEPTEMBER,

1840.

Arrival of a new governor.—Visit -—Allusion to females.—Royal fitmiin.— Persian style.—Office of Meerzas.—Manuscripts.—Sychophancy.—Communication of intelligence.—Conclusion of the war with Russia.—Concealment of unwelcome news.—Emblems.—Policy.—Visit from a Jewish physician.—Irrigation.—Mills.—Fruit.—Preparation of the soil.—Apricot.— Plum.—Peach.—Grapes.—Melons.—Cherries.—Apples.—Pears."Quinces. —Wheat.—Barley. —Rice.—Tobacco.—Cucumbers.—Antepast.—Jewish rabbi.—A work-yard.—Seeilkhoosh.—Blessing at the table.—Preaching.— Rain.—Monasticism.—Hebrew.—Wine-drinking, . . - . 418

CHAPTER XXVI. JOURNAL: SEPTEMBER—DECEMBER,

1840.

Earthquakes.—Koordish mountains.—Winds.—Sameil.—Preaching to the mountaineers.—Excursion.—Mohammedan schools and colleges.—Judiciary.—Hunting.—Use of h a w k s - ^ T h e net.—Papal emissaries.—Secular Papists—Character of Papacy in the East.—Death of Williams.—Family devotions in the native language.—Arrival of the press..—Church of St. Mary.—Chief rabbi.—Commencement of preaching at Ardislu'ii.—Edition of the Psalms.—References.—A Meerza, learning to print, . . 435

CHAPTER XXVII. JOURNAL: JANUARY—JUNE,

1841.

Preaching in the meeini.—A fast-breakfast.—Warming the church.—Mapdrawing.—Preaching again at ArdishAi.—Priest Yohannan, as a preacher.— Meeting at Alcili.— Impressions on first hearing the truth.—CorMn Beir&m, or sacrificial festival.—Adjustment of political difficulties.—Visit of the Emeer-i-nizftm.—Vizier.—Punishments.—Prison discipline.—A crowded church.—Communion.—Levity of the clergy.—Baptism.—The first book printed in the Nestorian language—Buffalo-fighting.—5ist Psalm.—Beard. Mt. Seir.'—Health-retreat.—Ordination.—Discussion between a prince and a Lazarist.—Papacy and infidelity.—Success in building, . . 447

CHAPTER XXVIII. R E T U R N TO AMERICA.

A return not anticipated.—Sensitiveness in the christian community, on the subject of the return of missionaries.—Reasons in our case.—Views of the

xviii

CONTENTS.

mission.—Ties to our field.—Opinion of physicians.—Departure from Ordo^ miah.—Crossing the Plain. — Mar Yohannan's desire to visit America.— Obtains his father's permission.—Minerals.—Salmis.—District-Town, called the city.—Muleteer's duplicity.—A rain.—Khoy.—Threshing.—A flood. Sublime scene.—Horses lost.—Insecurity.—Sight of the Koords.—Grazing region.—Ararat.—Mammoth caravan.—Papal priest,-Merchants.—Horses. Poets.—Crossing the boundary.—Plain ot Ararat.—The plague.—Providential provision.—Famine. —District of Alazgcrd.—Melancholy scenes.—Depopulation.—Colony.—Crossing a summit.—Ascent of a high mountain. T h e f t . — T h e bishop's loss.—Dar Boghds, a sublime pass,—A village of turf. Fields of wheat.—Illness.—Arrival at Er/.rdom.—Meeting with missionary friends.—Palace of the English Consul.—Missionary prospects at Erzroom. A hard soil.—An important position, . . . . 461 CHAPTER

XXIX.

RETURN, CONTINUED. I n f a n t traveller.—Arrival of Mr. and Mrs. Peabody at Erzroom.—Flowers.— Bees.—Sabbath at Hoshapan;i.—Shadow of a great rock.—Umbrellas.— G r e e k priests.—Soda-spring.—Ravines.—Ascent of mountains.—Sight of the sea. — T a v e r n s . — Karakapan.—Sublime views.—Javislik.—Reminiscences.—Mrs. P.'s illness.—A thunder-storm.—Arrival at Trebizond.— Quarantine.—Interview with the English ambassador.—Steamer.—Mission at Trebizond.—Passage to Constantinople.—Samsoon.—Sinope.—-Arrival, —Quarantine.—Carriages—European costume.—Meeting with friends.— Italian doctor.—Quarantine doctors.—Influence of the quarantine system.— Mr. Hamlin's school.—Visit at Constantinople.—Monthly concert.—Turkish bath.—Cleanliness of the Persians.—Monthly concert.—Progress of free inquiry.—Passage to Smyrna.—Mormon missionary.—Mission at Smyrna. —Voyage home.—Storms.—Narrow escape.—Allowance.—Judith, as a sailor.—Cargo.—Worms.— Given up as lost.—Arrival.—Meeting of the A. B. C. F . M 477 CHAPTER

XXX.

CONCLUSION. T h e divine agency in missions.--Sacrifices.—Female agency.—Missionestablishment at Oroomiah.--Hope in the missionary.—Present state of the Nestorian mission.--Schools.--Printing.—Preaching.—Mission to the mountain Nestorians.—Import of their independence.—Changes in their political condition not likely to be unfavorable.—Mission at Constantinople. Progress of truth among the Armenians.—Character of the people favorable to i t . - - G e n e r a l aspects.—Influence of steam-power.—Increase of commerce.—Rail-roads.—European innovations.--Desire for European knowledge.—Muhammedism declining.--Extension of British i n f l u e n c e Papal designs arrested.—Need of increased prayer and effort on the part of the church, . 493

L I S T OP D R A W I N G S .

1.

KING

of Persia.

Page.

2. Koordish warrior,

i

. ,

3. Nestorian of the mountains,

6

4. Mt. Ararat, as seen from the east, 5. Seminary at Oroomiah,

.

. 132 .

157

6. Mar Yohannan, a bishop of Oroomiah, 7. Governor of Oroomiah,

5

, , 172 > .

. . . 184

8. Priest Abraham,

188

9. Mar Elias,

235

10. Priest Zadoc, a brother of the Patriarch,

262

11. A Persian MooMh,

268

12. Mar Gabriel,

272

13. A Persian lady, at home,

283

14. A lady, veiled to go abroad,

288

15. A lady, gratifying her curiosity,

289

16. A Nestorian girl, carrying water,

; . . 319

17. A Nestorian girl, decorated with ornaments,

335

18. A Nestorian mother and little girl,

336

19. A Persian dervish,

375

20. A Koordish Pashl,

382

21. A Persian Sey6d,

390

22. Priest Dunka,

414

23. A Persian Meerza,

422

34. A Persian soldier,

457

25. A Persian muleteer,

466

26. A Persian merchant,

471

27. Mt. Ararat, as seen from the west,

472

TABLES.

M A R K S OF A C C E N T A N D P R O N U N C I A T I O N . ' = Accent. A oyer a, = both accent,* when that is not over another syllable, and the sound of the vowel a, in ¿atora, only a little shorter. A over u, =s sound of oo in moon. * over t, = sound of i in machine. • • over u, = French sound of u in tu. " over a vowel, = very short o, or u in tub. .. over o = sound of eu in the French word fieur.

M E A S U R E S OF D I S T A N C E . Ftirsdkh, the Parasang of Xenophon, which has usually been reckoned as equal to four miles, but is probably four and a half or two-thirds. Aghdj, tree, [Turkish], is another term employed to indicate the same distance. Menxil, stopping-place; used also to express the distance between two stopping-places ; i. e. stage, or day's journey.

P E R S I A N COIN. Sh&hie, a copper coin equal to one and one fourth cents. Mm Sh&kie = [half sMh6e], half the above. SaJiib-kor&n, a silver coin equal to twenty shdh6es, or twenty-five cents. Penah&d, a silver coin equal to half the above, or twelve and a half cents. Tomdn, a gold coin equal to ten sahib-kordns, or two dollars and fifty cents.

* When this mark occurs over two letters in the same word, the accent, if not otherwise indicated, falls upon the last of those two syllables.

RESIDENCE IN PERSIA.

C H A P T E R

I.

GENERAL SKETCH OF THE NESTORIAN CHRISTIANS. THE interest with which we contemplate a nation or people, is often in great disproportion to its numbers. T h e little States of G r e e c e stand unrivalled on the pages of history, as the early instructors and civilizers of the race. T h e small community of the Waldenses, pent up in the narrow valleys of Piedmont, was the repository of that inestimable treasure—the vitality of our holy relig i o n — d u r i n g the long night while the rest of E u r o p e lay torpid under the darkness of spiritual death. T h e few thousands of Moravians occupy a place on the records of the church, in the vigor of their zeal and the energy of their efforts to extend the triumphs of the gospel, which great christian nations might worthily c o v e t A n d the small island of Britain is, at this hour, exerting an influence o n the condition and destinies of the whole world, which the vast extent and the u n n u m b e r e d myriads of C h i n a have not only never k n o w n , but would hardly be able to rival, were her broad territory and countless inhabitants, illumined by the light of science and controlled by the spirit of Christianity. T h e obscure people who are the particular subject of this volume, possess a humble claim to illustrate the principle I have suggested. T h e Nestorian Christians are the small, but venerable, r e m n a n t of a once great and influential christian church. T h e y are the oldest of christian s e c t s ; and, in their better days, were n u m e r o u s through all the vast regions from Palestine to C h i n a ; and they carried the gospel into C h i n a itself. T h e i r history is a c h e c k e r e d one. S o m e times, as under the tolerant policy of the mighty J h e n g i s K h a n , they were raised to high places in the camp and at the c o u r t ; while at other times, as by the crushing arm of the bloody T i m o u r l a n e , they were cut down and swept away, till scarce a vestige remained, save in the fastnesses of inaccessible mountains. But in both prosperity and adversity, during more than a thousand years of their history, are furnished the brightest examples of persevering toil and self-de1

2

LINEAL

ORIGIN.

nial, and often, of heroic martyrdom, cheerful]}' encountered in the profession and zealous promulgation of the gospel, that are to be found on the records of Christianity since the days of the apostles.* T h e lineal origin of the Nestorians, like that of most Eastern nations, is hidden in the mists of uncertainty. Common, and perhaps universal, tradition among them, claims the Jews as their ancestors. As evidence of this descent, they urge the resemblance which exists between the Hebrew and their own language. They also adduce their deep abhorrence of the use of images and pictures as another proof of their Jewish origin. ' While,' say they, ' all other Eastern Christians having descended from heathen ancestors, still retain their strong attachment to idolatry, the plain, unadorned walls of our churches proclaim a different ancestry.' T h e curious inquirer might adduce many other more or less plausible evidences that the Nestorians are descendants of the Jews. Nor is there any absurdity in the supposition, that their remote ancestors may have been some portion of the Israelites, who were carried away captive, the kings of Assyria, as mentioned in 1 Chron. 5: 26, and 2 Kings, 15: 5, 29, into places probably not distant from regions now occupied by the Nestorians. But to attempt to demonstrate as certain, the Jewish origin of this people, must, from the nature of the case, in the absence of all written records on the subject, be a very difficult, if not an unsatisfactory undertaking; and yet more difficult still to demonstrate their identity with the lost tribes of Israel, unmixed with other Jews or other nations. Since the