101 Sewing Seams: The Most Used Seams by Fashion Designers (ABC Seams) [2nd 2021 ed.] 0648273466, 9780648273462

Citation preview

101

SEWING

SEAMS FASHION DESIGN | SEWING TECHNIQUES | DRESSMAKING

2018

ABCSEAMS

101 Sewing Seams

The Most Used Seams by Fashion Designers

2018

ABCSEAMS

101 Sewing Seams.

The Most Used Seams by Fashion Designers. copyright © 2018 by ABC Seams Pty. Ltd.

All rights reserved. No parts of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any format or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the written permission of the author.

Designed and Published by ABC Seams Pty. Ltd. P.O. Box 30 - Millaa Millaa (4886), QLD, Australia ABC Seams is a Trade Mark.

ISBN 978-0-6482734-0-0

Discover more at www.abcseams.com If you have any feedback, please don’t hesitate to contact us to [email protected] Thank you. ABC Seams Team

To Marcelo, Lidia and Oscar.

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

CONTENTS

ABCSEAMS

CONTENTS ............................................ 0 1

SEAMS LIBRARY

INTRODUCTION .................................... 0 2



How to Read this Book ............. 0 3

BASIC SEAM

FRENCH SEAM

FELLED SEAM

C000

C010

C100

BOUND SEAM

WELT SEAM

OPEN SEAM

LAPPED SEAM

C101

C110

C200

C120

UNHEMMED EDGE

FOLDED HEM

BINDED EDGE

H000

H110

H200

FACED HEM

BOUND HEM

EXPOSED BAND

EXPOSED TAPE

H150

H101

H210

H310

EXPOSED PIPING

SANDWICH HEM

TURNED EDGE

H400

HD190

H160

PATCH

PLEAT

BOX PLEAT

D210

D110

D111

CONSTRUCTION

Selecting Seams ....................... 0 5



SEAMS LIBRARY.................................... 0 6



CONSTRUCTION SEAMS .......... 0 7



HEMS AND FINISHES ............... 1 6

DETAILS ..................................... 2 7

SANDWICH SEAM

CD190

OVERVIEW ................................. 3 1



I WANT MORE (Additional) ................... 3 2 Stitches...................................... 3 3

HEMS & FINISHES

Topstitching............................... 3 4



Technical Specifications........... 3 5

INDEX ..................................................... 4 8

Codes, Abbreviations & Icons .... 4 9

ABOUT ABC SEAMS .............................. 5 0 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................ 5 1

1

|

Page

DETAILS

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

INTRODUCTION

ABCSEAMS

Over the last decades, the textile industry has

Simple and Precise.

become an extremely complex world: new

Our goal is to help to make your job easier.

fabrics every year, outsourced productions

How? By giving you a tool that helps you to

located abroad, extreme competitiveness,

select sewing seams simply; also, that allows

borderless sales, trends that change faster

you to be specific, improving your communica-

and faster, in a nutshell… it is a dizzying world

tion skill to get better results.

in which we live. These changes are not indifferent to all of us who work with fashion... not at all! Nowadays, doing a good job it is not enough, we must be superb, which includes having professional updated and a bit of knowledge about everything.

Easy to Read, Easy to Use. Whether you are a student, an amateur, a teacher or a professional, this book is for you: beginners will learn basic concepts, as well as will gain confidence and precision. The more experienced ones will broaden their technical knowledge, while accessing an inspirational

Having a general understanding about sewing

source to try out new ideas and techniques.

is a crucial part of the creative process. For example, the function, the use, the aesthetic and the cost of any garment or textile product will affect the type of seams we select. Also, the extensive variety of stitches and seams available in the market requires a broad understanding. That is why we have conducted detailed research identifying the currently most recognized and widely used sewing seams. The content of this book is a summary of that investigation.

2

|

Page

We wish you find this book as interesting, useful and as practical as we do. Discover more about our work at our website: www.abcseams.com If you wish to contact us, please send us an email to [email protected] ABC Seams Team

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

How to Read this Book All sewing seams developed in this book are

Each of these categories is made up of sev-

Also, each group is formed by several

classified into 3 CATEGORIES, according to

eral GROUPS OF SEAMS, distinguishing one

SEAMS. These seams share the same struc-

their function:

group from another by their structure (or way

ture, but they are sewn by different types of

of construction).

stitches and topstitching (see Types of Stitch-

1. Construction Seams: those seams that join

es and Types of Topstitching).

at least two layers of fabric, giving shape to

For example, some Construction Seams are:

the garment or product.

- French Seam: group C010

For example, some Felled Seams are:

- Felled Seam: group C100

- Felled Seam whit Non-Topstitch: C100-1

- Welt Seam: group C110

- Felled Seam with Non-Topstitch and Serged

- Bound Seam: group C101

Edge: C100-1 +SE

- Open Seam: group C200

- Felled Seam with Edge Stitch: C100-2

- Sandwich Seam: group CD190

- Felled Seam with Basic Topstitch: C100-3

2. Hems and Finishes: their main function is to prevent the fabric edge from fraying and raveling while giving more resistance. 3. Details and Decorations: these seams embellish the design, give volume and join pieces

- Felled Seam with Cover Stitch: C100-4 (CS)

to the fabric. Ex: SOME CONSTRUCTION SEAMS TYPES OF SEAMS

CONSTRUCTION

HEMS & FINISHES

- Felled Seam with Double Topstitch: C100-4

Ex: SOME FELLED SEAMS - Group C100

DETAILS

C010

C100

C110 C100-1

C100-1 +SE

C100-2

C100-3

C100-4 (CS)

C100-4

Non Topstitch

C101

C200

|

Page

Edge Stitch

CD190 Basic Topstitch

3

Non Topstitch +SE

Cover Stitch

Double Topstitch

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

Overview Each page shows a unique Group of Seams:

On the right side, you will find the SEAMS Each of them is represented by a sketch and a

tion about the SEAM GROUP: general code, name, main properties, a representation of the structure in three dimensions and a picture

reference of all seams developed in the book, including their name/code, sketch and page

themselves.

On the left side, you will see general informa-

This ready-to-print chart gives you a quick visual

number where more information can be found.

unique code. Also, the used stitching is menOverview

tioned just below the code. In some cases, some extra information such as “frequent use”

that shows both sides of the seam.

101

SEWING

C000

BASIC SEAM

Basic Topstitch + OS

K

C100-4

Double Topstitch

C000-1

Non Topstitch

K

K

C100-4 (CS)

C100-4 (FS)

Cover Stitch

Flat Seam

Flatlock Stitch

C000-1 +SE

Non Topstitch +SE

C200-2

C200-2 +SE

C200-1 +SE

CD190-4

CD190-5

CD190-8

CD190-9

Basic Topstitch

Basic Topstitch

K

H100-2 (FS) Flatlock Stitch

C010

Overlock Stitch

FRENCH SEAM

Basic Toptitch + SE

Double Topstitch

Non Topstitch +SE

C101

BOUND SEAM

C101-9

Basic Topstitch

C101-10

Basic & Safety Stitch

H100-0 +BS

Non Topstitch

Exposed w/ Flap

$

C100-1

C100-1 +SE

C110-1

C110-1x

C210-3

Self-polished

C201-9

+ Bounded Edge

K $

C300

+ Tape

$

H000

H000-0

UNHEMMED EDGE

LAPPED SEAM

Raw Edge

Non Stitch

H130-6

Basic Topstitch

H130-11

Double Basic Topstitch Double Topstitch

H140-11 +SE H140-12 +SE Basic Topstitch +SE

P.23 H211-9

H310

Bounded

EXPOSED TAPE

$

WELT SEAM

Serged Edge

H000-0 +SE

Overlock Stitch

C300-1

Basic Topstitch

H120-0 +SE

H120-1 +SE

Non Topstitch +SE

Basic Topstitch +SE

Basic + SE & Safety

H101

BOUND HEM

Basic Topstitch

H101-10

H101-12

Basic & Safety Stitch

H120-2 (CS)

H210

Double Topstitch

Double Topstitch

P.18 H110

FOLDED HEM

Non Topstitch +SE

H200

BINDED EDGE

EXPOSED BAND

Double Topstitch

H200-1 Edge Stitch

C100-1 (OS)

C100-2

J

J

C110-2

C110-3

Overlock Stitch

Double Topstitch (full)

P.15

C300-4 (CS)

CD190

CD190-1

Cover Stitch $

SANDWICH SEAM

Non Topstitch

Basic Topstitch

H110-10

Basic Topstitch

P.13 C200

OPEN SEAM

CD190-2 Safety Stitch K $

Narrow Hem

H110-2

C100-3

Triple Topstitch (full) $

H100-1 +SE

Edge Stitch / NARROW Basic Topstitch +SE

H100-2 (CS) Cover Stitch

P.20

H200-3 (CS) Cover Stitch

H150

FACED HEM

K $

H210-1 +SE

Edge Stitch

K

K

P.19

Cover Stitch

K

C300-4

Roll Stitch Edge

P.22 H101-9

Basic Topstitch

H000-0 +RS Roll Stitch

K

H130-3

Non Topstitch

P.14

C220-2

P.17 HEMS & FINISHES

Triple Topstitch

C110

Double Topstitch

P.21 H150-45x

P.10

C100

FELLED SEAM

C101-12

Boning Seam

Blind Hem

Blind Stitch

C010-1

P.12

Hong Kong S.

C200-1

Edge Stitch

P.09

C000-1 (OS)

P.11

$

Non Topstitch

$

CONSTRUCTION

SEAMS

C100-3 (OS)

is given too.

$

P.08

H150-31

H150-32

K

K

Basic Topstitch

Non Topstitch +SE

Overlock Stitch

H210-1 (OS)

H210-3

H210-4

Double Topstitch

Cover Stitch

H400-1

H400-2

H400-3

H400-4

H401-9

Basic Topstitch

H210-4 (CS)

Basic & Safety Stitch

H210-4 (FS) Flatlock Stitch

P.24

H310-1 (OS) Overlock Stitch

H310-3

Basic Topstitch

H310-4

Double Topstitch

H310-3x

Double Topstitch

Understitch

H311-9 Bounded

H400

EXPOSED PIPING

P.26

$

H160

H160-0

P.25 Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch

Basic Topstitch

Double Topstitch

Bounded

HD190

SANDWICH HEM

P.28 DETAILS

HD190-1 Non Topstitch

D210-3

Basic Topstitch

Code and Name of the Group

C100

$

Non Topstitch

3D Structure Main Properties

Excellent versatility. Durable. Good elongation recovery.

C100-2 Edge Stitch

C100-1 +SE

Non Topstitch +SE

Overlock Stitch

C100-3 (OS)

C100-4

Double Topstitch

K

K

C100-4 (CS)

C100-4 (FS)

Cover Stitch

Edge Stitch

P.29 D110

Double Topstitch

PLEAT

HD190-5

HD190-8

D110-0

D110-10

Basic Topstitch

Double Topstitch

HD190-10

Double Off-Seam

Dart

Non Topstitch

Non Topstitch

TURNED EDGE

Pin Tuck

D110-13

Basic Topstitch

D100-1

Non Topstitch

H160-1 Edge Stitch

P.30

$

D111

D111-0

BOX PLEAT

Non Topstitch

H160-4

Basic Topstitch

D111-0A Non Topstitch

D210

D210-1

D210-2

D112-0A

D112-1

D112-5

OVERLAPPED

D111-1 Edge Stitch

Non Topstitch

Non Topstitch

Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch

Edge Stitch

J SKETCH

(structure + stitching)

Basic Topstitch + OS Flat Seam

C100-3

Picture

HD190-4

D210-4

C100-1 (OS)

C100-3

Basic Topstitch

Safety Stitch

Feature

K $

FELLED SEAM C100-1

HD190-2 J

Flatlock Stitch

C100-5

Triple Topstitch

SEAM CODE

Type of Stitching

4

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

Selecting Seams First considerations.

Start in by going to the Overview Page where

Step 3 - Selecting a SEAM

you can see all the seams at once.

Now is the time to think about the type of

Firstly, you should do a brief analysis where you

lock, cover machine, invisible stitch, etc.

K $

CONSTRUCTION

SEWING

Non Topstitch Flat Seam

C100-3 (OS)

Basic Topstitch + OS

four aspects are closely related to the proper

Double Topstitch

Cover Stitch

Basic Topstitch Hong Kong S.

$

C200-1

Basic Topstitch

CD190-4 Edge Stitch

seams selection. You can use the following

+ Bounded Edge

Self-polished

P.17

Flatlock Stitch

H150-45x

Exposed w/ Flap

H211-9 Bounded

Double Topstitch

Triple Topstitch

Blind Hem

H100-0 +BS Blind Stitch

H130-6

H130-3

Basic Topstitch

H140-12 +SE H140-11 +SE Basic + SE & Safety Topstitch +SE Basic

P.23 H310

EXPOSED TAPE

Double Basic Topstitch

H130-11

Double Topstitch

HD190-1 Non Topstitch

D210-3

Basic Topstitch

HD190-2 Safety Stitch J

D210-4

Double Topstitch

Overlock Stitch

Non Topstitch +SE

Overlock Stitch

H101

Basic Topstitch

H101-9

Basic Topstitch

H310-4

Double Topstitch

H101-10

Basic & Safety Stitch

H310-3x

Double Topstitch

H101-12

Double Topstitch

HD190-4 Edge Stitch

HD190-5 Basic Topstitch

HD190-8

Double Topstitch

H311-9 Bounded

P.26 H160

HD190-10

TURNED EDGE

Double Off-Seam

Pin Tuck

Dart

P.29 D110 PLEAT

D110-0

Non Topstitch

D110-10 Non Topstitch

D100-1

D110-13

Basic Topstitch

P.15

C300-4 (CS) Cover Stitch

P.18

$

CD190-1

CD190

SANDWICH SEAM

H200

BINDED EDGE

Non Topstitch

H110-10

H110-2

Basic Topstitch

K

H200-1 Edge Stitch

H200-3 (CS)

Edge Stitch / NARROW

H210

Cover Stitch

H210-1 +SE Non Topstitch +SE

H210-1 (OS) Overlock Stitch

H210-3

Basic Topstitch

P.24 H400

EXPOSED PIPING

H400-1

Non Topstitch

H400-2 Edge Stitch

$

H400-3

Basic Topstitch

DETAILS

H160-0

Non Topstitch

P.30 D111

BOX PLEAT

H160-1

Safety Stitch K $

H100-1 +SE

Basic Topstitch +SE

H160-4

Edge Stitch

H150

FACED HEM

H150-31

Basic Topstitch K

H210-4

Double Topstitch

H400-4

Double Topstitch

H210-4 (CS) Cover Stitch

H401-9 Bounded

D210

D210-1

Non Topstitch

$

D111-0

Non Topstitch

D111-0A Non Topstitch

D111-1 Edge Stitch

Cover Stitch

H150-32

Basic & Safety Stitch

D112-0A Non Topstitch

D112-1

Non Topstitch

H210-4 (FS) Flatlock Stitch

P.25 HD190

SANDWICH HEM

D210-2 Edge Stitch

D112-5 Edge Stitch

Is it lightweight, medium or heavyweight? Is it a

Step 1 - Selecting a CATEGORY

sheer fabric?

The first factor to consider is the main func-

- Use:

tion of the seam: Constructions, Hems and

Does it have a formal style? Is it an active-wear? Is it means to be worn to work? Does it need strong and resistant seams or should they be soft and delicate? - Price/Cost:

Finishes, or Details. Step 2 - Selecting the STRUCTURE (or Group

Some seams are widely adaptable and can be used in many ways, depending on the desired effect. If so, have a look at the Inspiration section placed on the lower part of the left side (in light blue). There you will see some techniques.

of Seam): It is at this point where you need to consider

going to be a cheap or an expensive garment?

the previous observations.

ing about cost we should talk about the level of

Step 4 (optional) - INSPIRATION

suggestions to try out and to test new sewing

Who is my target? How much can I afford? Is it Note: if you are the one who sews, instead of talk-

Done!

K

P.28

OVERLAPPED

Basic Topstitch

H100-2 (CS)

P.20

K $

P.22 EXPOSED BAND

CD190-2

Narrow Hem

$

H110

FOLDED HEM

OPEN SEAM

Triple Topstitch (full)

P.19

Cover Stitch

P.21 BOUND HEM

H310-3

Roll Stitch

H120-2 (CS)

Basic Topstitch +SE

K

H310-1 (OS)

H000-0 +RS

K

H120-1 +SE

Double Topstitch

Roll Stitch Edge

H000-0 +SE

Non Stitch

C300-4

Basic Topstitch

Serged Edge

Raw Edge

H000-0

H120-0 +SE

Understitch

$

LAPPED SEAM

+ Tape

$

C300-1

C300

C220-2

H000

UNHEMMED EDGE

CD190-9

CD190-8

Double Topstitch (full)

K

C200

C110-3

C110-2

Double Topstitch

P.13

J

J

C110-1x

Basic Topstitch

P.14

Basic Topstitch

Edge Stitch

Overlock Stitch

Non Topstitch +SE

C110-1

C110

WELT SEAM

Double Topstitch

C100-3

C100-2

C100-1 (OS)

C100-1 +SE

Non Topstitch

P.12

C101-12

Basic & Safety Stitch Boning Seam

C201-9

C210-3

Non Topstitch +SE

HEMS & FINISHES

Basic Topstitch

H100-2 (FS)

- Material:

Basic Toptitch + SE

CD190-5

K

questions as a guide:

C200-1 +SE

C200-2 +SE

C200-2

Non Topstitch

FELLED SEAM

Non Topstitch

C101-10

C101-9

C101

BOUND SEAM

Flatlock Stitch

C100-1

C100

C010-1

C010

FRENCH SEAM

Overlock Stitch

P.11

C100-4 (FS)

C100-4 (CS)

C000-1 (OS)

Non Topstitch +SE

K

K

C100-4

C000-1 +SE

C000-1

C000

BASIC SEAM

SEAMS

P.09

$

K

101

$

P.10

$

P.08

product, price/cost and some few details. These

What kind of fabric is it? Is it a stretch material?

stitching and topstitching: plain stitch, over-

Overview

will consider: material to be used, use of the

Tip: once you have selected the seams, keep a record of it by writing down the code name on your fashion drawing or the pattern. This information could be useful in the future.

Have a look at the structure of each group (the Note: if you have any doubt when choosing a seam, feel

difficulty. When the cost is high, usually, it requires

blue blocks) and choose the most appropriate

an advanced sewing skill. Contrarily, if the seam

one.

com. Remember to add a pic of the style to have a better

If you are not sure, go to each group’s page

understanding.

and compare their properties to see which one

On the other hand, remember this book includes the most

has a low or medium cost, that commonly means that the level of difficulty is basic or medium.

- Details: Is it lined? Is it in contact with the skin? What type of washing will it require?

is better for your style.

free to ask for suggestions to feedback@abcseams.

popular seams in the industry, not all of them!. If you wish to see them all, please visit our website: www.abcseams.com.

5

|

Page

CONTENTS

SEAMS LIBRARY CONSTRUCTION

HEMS & FINISHES

DETAILS

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

CONSTRUCTION

CONSTRUCTION

HEMS & FINISHES

DETAILS

BASIC SEAM

FRENCH SEAM

FELLED SEAM

BOUND SEAM

WELT SEAM

OPEN SEAM

LAPPED SEAM

SANDWICH SEAM

C000

C010

C100

C101

C110

C200

C120

CD190 OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

C000

BASIC SEAM

$

K

C000-1

C000-1 +SE

Non Topstitch

Non Topstitch +SE

$

C000-1 (OS) Overlock Stitch

Very flexible. Inexpensive.

C000-1

CONSTRUCTION

I N S P I R AT I O N

No ironing needed.

+ Band

+ Tape or Lace

+ Piping

Hairline Seam

Bounded

8

|

Page

Self-polished

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

C010

FRENCH SEAM

STEP-BY-STEP

C010-1

5mm 0.20”

Non Topstitch 1

Strong.

Sew

2

Fold Up

Sew

4

Open Up

Neat finishing on the inside. 8mm 0.30”

Relatively expensive.

3

C010-1

C010-1 Done

CONSTRUCTION

9

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

C100

$

K $

FELLED SEAM C100-1

C100-1 +SE

C100-1 (OS)

C100-2

C100-3

C100-3 (OS)

K

K

C100-4 (CS)

C100-4 (FS)

Non Topstitch

Excellent versatility. Durable. Good elongation recovery.

Non Topstitch +SE

Edge Stitch

Basic Topstitch

Overlock Stitch

Basic Topstitch + OS Flat Seam

C100-3

C100-4

Double Topstitch

CONSTRUCTION

10

|

Page

Cover Stitch

Flatlock Stitch

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

C101

BOUND SEAM

C101-9

C101-10

Basic Topstitch

Basic & Understitch

C101-12

Double Topstitch

Strong. Stretch resistant.

C101-9

CONSTRUCTION

I N S P I R AT I O N

Reversible.

11

|

Exposed Seam

Tape or Lace

Binding

Binding

Page

Tape or Lace

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

SHIRT

POLO

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

C110

WELT SEAM

STEP-BY-STEP

C110-1

Basic Topstitch 7mm or 0.30”

15mm or 0.60”

1

Strong.

C110-1x

Neat on the inside. Affordable.

Sew

2

Fold Up

Double Topstitch

8mm or 0.30”

J 3

Fold Up

4

Sew

C110-1

C110-2

Double Topstitch (full) J

C110-1 Done

C110-3

Triple Topstitch (full) CONSTRUCTION

12

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

C200

$

OPEN SEAM C200-1

C200-2

Non Topstitch

Basic Topstitch

C200-2 +SE

Basic Topstitch + SE Hong Kong S.

Low tension resistnace. Very flexible.

C200-1 +SE

Non Topstitch +SE

C210-3

Self-polished

C201-9

+ Bounded Edge

Reduce thickness on seam.

CONSTRUCTION

C220-2

ADDITIONAL

C200-2

Boning Seam

C220-2 + Tape

13

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

C120

LAPPED SEAM

K

C120-1

C120-4

Basic Topstitch

Double Topstitch

C120-4 (CS) Cover Stitch

Flexible. Good elongation recovery.

C120-4

CONSTRUCTION

I N S P I R AT I O N

Inexpensive.

14

|

+ Band

+ Tape or Lace

Bounded

Bounded

Page

+ Piping

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

CD190

$

SANDWICH SEAM CD190-1

CD190-2

CD190-4

CD190-5

CD190-8

CD190-9

Non Topstitch

Resistant. Reversible.

Understitch

Double Topstitch

Basic Topstitch

Edge Stitch

Triple Topstitch

CD190-5

CONSTRUCTION

I N S P I R AT I O N

Inexpensive.

15

|

+ Band

+ Tape or Lace

+ Layer of Fabric

+ Interfacing

Page

+ Piping

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

HEMS & FINISHES

CONSTRUCTION

HEMS & FINISHES

DETAILS

UNHEMMED EDGE

FOLDED HEM

BINDED EDGE

FACED HEM

BOUND HEM

EXPOSED BAND

EXPOSED TAPE

EXPOSED PIPING

SANDWICH HEM

TURNED EDGE

H000

H110

H200

H150

H101

H210

H310

H400

HD190

H160

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H000

UNHEMMED EDGE

$

Raw Edge

H000-0 Non Stitch

Serged Edge

Roll Stitch Edge

H000-0 +SE

H000-0 +RS

Overlock Stitch

Roll Stitch

Flexible. Excellent versatility.

H000-0 +SE

HEMS & FINISHES

I N S P I R AT I O N

Inexpensive.

+ Binding

17

|

Page

+ Tape / Lace

+ Cord

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

$

H110

Rolled Hem

FOLD HEM H110-2

H110-10

K $

K

H100-2 (CS)

H100-2 (FS)

H100-0 +BS

H130-3

H130-6

H130-11

Basic Topstitch

Resistant.

Edge Stitch / NARROW

Cover Stitch

Versatile.

Flatlock Stitch

H100-1 +SE

Basic Topstitch +SE Blind Hem

Blind Stitch

Affordable. H110-2

Basic Topstitch

Double Basic Topstitch

Double Topstitch K

H120-0 +SE Non Topstitch +SE HEMS & FINISHES

18

|

Page

H120-1 +SE

Basic Topstitch +SE

H120-2 (CS) Cover Stitch OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H200

BINDED EDGE

K

H200-1

H200-3 (CS)

Basic Stitch

Cover Stitch

Strong. Poor elongation recovery.

H200-1

HEMS & FINISHES

I N S P I R AT I O N

Neat finishing on the inside.

+ Band

+ Tape / Lace

+ Piping Taped Edge

+ Layer of Fabric

19

|

Page

Binding (option 2)

Tape / Lace

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H150

FACED HEM H150-31

H150-32

H140-11 +SE

H140-12 +SE

Basic Topstitch

Resistant. Reversible.

Basic & Understitch

Basic Topstitch +SE

H150-45x Exposed w/ Flap

Basic +SE & Underst.

H150-31

HEMS & FINISHES

I N S P I R AT I O N

Versatile.

Exposed Hem

20

|

Page

Lengthen Hem

Shorten Hem

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H101

BOUND HEM

H101-9

H101-10

Basic Topstitch

Basic & Understitch

H101-12

Double Topstitch

Strong. Neat finishing on the inside.

H101-9

HEMS & FINISHES

I N S P I R AT I O N

Stretch resistance.

21

|

Exposed Hem

+ Inner Band

Bound (option 2)

Bound (option 3)

Bound (option 4)

Bound (option 5)

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H210

K $

EXPOSED BAND H210-1 +SE Non Topstitch +SE

Flexible. Good elongation recovery.

H210-4

Double Topstitch

H210-1 (OS)

H210-3

K

K

H210-4 (CS)

H210-4 (FS)

Overlock Stitch

Cover Stitch

Basic Topstitch

Flatlock Stitch

Inexpensive.

HEMS & FINISHES

H211-9

ADDITIONAL

H210-1 (OS)

H211-9 Bounded

22

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H310

K

EXPOSED TAPE H310-1 (OS)

H310-3

H310-4

H310-3x

Overlock Stitch

Flexible. Reversible.

Double Topstitch

Basic Topstitch

Exposed

Neat finishing on the inside.

HEMS & FINISHES

H311-9

ADDITIONAL

H310-3

H311-9 Bounded

23

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H400

EXPOSED PIPING H400-1

H400-2

H400-3

H400-4

Non Topstitch

Strong. Versatil.

Edge Stitch

Basic Topstitch

Double Topstitch

Stretch resistance.

HEMS & FINISHES

H401-9

ADDITIONAL

H400-1

H401-9 Bounded

24

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

HD190

$

SANDWICH HEM HD190-1

HD190-2

HD190-4

HD190-5

HD190-8

HD190-10

Non Topstitch

Resistant. Neat finish on the inside.

Understitch

Basic Topstitch

Double Topstitch

Edge Stitch

Double Off-Seam

HD190-5

HEMS & FINISHES

I N S P I R AT I O N

Reversible.

25

|

Lengthen Hem

Shorten Hem

+ Interfacing

+ Exposed Band

+ Exposed Tape/Lace

+ Exposed Piping

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

H160

TURNED EDGE

$

H160-0

H160-1

Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch

H160-4

Basic Topstitch

Excellent felxibility. Durable.

H160-0

HEMS & FINISHES

I N S P I R AT I O N

Inexpensive.

+ Layer of Fabric

26

|

Page

+ Layer & Band

+ Layer & Tape/Lace

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

DETAILS

CONSTRUCTION

HEMS & FINISHES

DETAILS

PATCH

PLEAT

BOX PLEAT

D210

D110

D111 OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

D210

PATCH SEAM D210-1

D210-2

Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch J

Strong. Resistant. Durable.

D210-3

I N S P I R AT I O N

Basic Topstitch

D210-4

DETAILS

D210-4

28

|

Double Topstitch

+ Band

+ Tape / Lace

+ Piping

+ Band/Flap

+ Tape/Lace

Raw Edge

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

D110 PLEAT

Dart

D110-10

D110-0

Understitch

Non Topstitch

D110-13

Basic Topstitch

Gives volume. Flexible. Versatile.

DETAILS

D100-1

ADDITIONAL

D110-0

Pin Tuck

D100-1

29

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 T-SHIRT

POLO

SHIRT

BLOUSE

BIKINI

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

TRENCH

ABCSEAMS

D111

$

BOX PLEAT D111-0

D111-0A

Non Topstitch

D111-1

Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch

D 1 1 2 INVERTED BOX PLEAT Gives volume. Reversible. Durable.

D112-0A

D112-1

Non Topstitch

D112-5

Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch

D111-1 D112-1

DETAILS

30

|

Page

OVERVIEW

CONTENTS

BAG

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

Overview P. 08

101

SEWING

C000

BASIC SEAM

Basic Topstitch + OS

K

C100-4

Double Topstitch

C000-1

Non Topstitch

K

K

C100-4 (CS)

C100-4 (FS)

Cover Stitch

Flat Seam

Flatlock Stitch

C000-1 +SE

Non Topstitch +SE

Non Topstitch

C000-1 (OS)

Edge Stitch

Flatlock Stitch

FRENCH SEAM

C200-2

Basic Topstitch

C200-2 +SE

Basic Toptitch + SE

C200-1 +SE

Non Topstitch +SE

CD190-5 Basic Topstitch

CD190-8

Double Topstitch

CD190-9

C101

BOUND SEAM

C101-9

Basic Topstitch

C101-10

Basic & Understitch

Blind Stitch

Exposed w/ Flap

P. 2 3

H211-9

H310

Bounded

EXPOSED TAPE

FELLED SEAM

C210-3

Self-polished

C201-9

+ Bounded Edge

HEMS & FINISHES

H000

Triple Topstitch

UNHEMMED EDGE

C101-12

K $

H130-3

Basic Topstitch

H130-6

H130-11

Double Basic Topstitch Double Topstitch

Basic + SE & Underst.

H101

BOUND HEM

C120

+ Tape

LAPPED SEAM

Raw Edge

Serged Edge

H000-0

H000-0 +SE

Non Stitch

WELT SEAM

Basic Topstitch

Non Topstitch

C100-1 +SE

Non Topstitch +SE

H120-0 +SE Non Topstitch +SE

Overlock Stitch

H120-1 +SE

Basic Topstitch +SE

H101-10

Basic & Understitch

C110-1

Basic Topstitch

C120-1

Basic Topstitch

P.18

Roll Stitch

H110

FOLDED HEM

H210

Double Topstitch

H200

BINDED EDGE

H200-1 Basic Stitch

C100-1 (OS)

C100-2

J

J

C110-2

C110-3

Overlock Stitch

Double Topstitch (full) P. 15

C120-4 (CS) Cover Stitch $

CD190

SANDWICH SEAM

H110-2

Basic Topstitch

H110-10

Non Topstitch +SE

H210-1 (OS) Overlock Stitch

C100-3

Basic Topstitch P. 13

C200

Triple Topstitch (full)

OPEN SEAM

$

CD190-1 Non Topstitch

CD190-2 Understitch K $

H100-1 +SE

H100-2 (CS)

H150-31

H150-32

K

K

H210-4 (CS)

H210-4 (FS)

Edge Stitch / NARROW Basic Topstitch +SE

Cover Stitch

P. 20

H200-3 (CS) Cover Stitch

H150

FACED HEM

K $

H210-1 +SE

Edge Stitch

Rolled Hem

K

P.19

EXPOSED BAND

K

Double Topstitch

H000-0 +RS

Cover Stitch

Double Topstitch

C120-4

Roll Stitch Edge

H120-2 (CS)

H101-12

C110-1x K

P.22

H101-9

C100-1

P.14

C220-2 $

C110

Double Topstitch

K

H140-11 +SE H140-12 +SE Basic Topstitch +SE

C100

Non Topstitch

Boning Seam

Blind Hem

H100-0 +BS

C010-1

P. 21

H150-45x

$

P.12

Hong Kong S.

K

H100-2 (FS)

P.10

C010

Overlock Stitch

P.17

CD190-4

P.09

P. 11

$

C200-1

$

CONSTRUCTION

SEAMS

C100-3 (OS)

$

H210-3

Basic Topstitch

H210-4

Double Topstitch

Basic Topstitch

Cover Stitch

Basic & Understitch

Flatlock Stitch P. 25

P.24

H310-1 (OS) Overlock Stitch

H310-3

Basic Topstitch

H310-4

Double Topstitch

H310-3x

Double Topstitch

$

H311-9

H400

Bounded

EXPOSED PIPING

H400-1

Non Topstitch

H400-2 Edge Stitch

H400-3

Basic Topstitch

$

P.26

H400-4

Double Topstitch

H401-9 Bounded

HD190

SANDWICH HEM

P. 28 DETAILS

HD190-1 Non Topstitch

HD190-2 Understitch J

D210-3

Basic Topstitch

D210-4

Double Topstitch

HD190-4 Edge Stitch

HD190-5 Basic Topstitch

PLEAT

Double Topstitch

HD190-10

Double Off-Seam

Dart

P. 29

D110

HD190-8

D110-0

Non Topstitch

D110-10 Understitch

H160-0

H160

TURNED EDGE

Pin Tuck

D110-13

Basic Topstitch

Non Topstitch P.30

D100-1

D111

BOX PLEAT

31

|

Page

H160-1 Edge Stitch

H160-4

Basic Topstitch

D210

D210-1

D210-2

D112-0A

D112-1

D112-5

OVERLAPPED

Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch

$

D111-0

Non Topstitch

D111-0A Non Topstitch

D111-1 Edge Stitch

Non Topstitch

Non Topstitch

Edge Stitch

CONTENTS

I WANT

MORE STITCHES

TOPSTITCHING

TECH SPECS

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

STITCHES

T YPES A ND DENOMI N ATI ON S

ABCSEAMS

PLAIN STITCH

CHAIN STITCH

ZIG-ZAG STITCH

3-STEPS ZIG-ZAG STITCH

OVERLOCK STITCH

ROLL STITCH

COVER STITCH

FLATLOCK STITCH

33

|

Page

BLIND STITCH

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

T YPES A ND DENOMI N ATI ON S

TOPSTITCHING

ABCSEAMS

NON TOPSTITCH

EDGE STITCH

UNDERSTITCH

BASIC TOPSTITCH

DOUBLE BASIC TOPSTITCH

BASIC TOPSTITCH whit FLAP

DOUBLE TOPSTITCH

TRIPLE TOPSTITCH

TOPSTITCH OFF-SEAM

DOUBLE TOPSTITCH OFF-SEAM

34

|

Page

TRIPLE TOPSTITCH OFF-SEAM CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

ABCSEAMS

T-SHIRT

BLOUSE

POLO

SHIRT

SKIRT

JEANS

CHILDRENWEAR

BIKINI 35

|

TRENCH

Page

BAG

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Marc CODE: #04-968 MAIN FABRIC: Cotton 7458 c/238

T-SHIRT

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics

SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

PROTOTYPE

H211-9 H210-1 (OS) n

neckl ine (fron t)

tom

bot

ne

li eck

ck)

a (b

er

ld shou

arm

hole

eve

sle

side

C000-1 +SE

H100-2 (CS) bottom

TECH SPECS

36

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Francis CODE: #06-719 MAIN FABRIC: Pique 08349 c/825

POLO

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics

SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

PROTOTYPE

C101-10

rib 2X1

ine

C100-3 (OS) shou

kl nec lde

r

H150-31 placket

C000-1 (OS)

hole

arm

H120-2 (CS)

2.5 cm

tom

bot

side

rib 2X1

sle eve

H310-1 (OS) H100-2 (CS)

TECH SPECS

bottom

1.3 cm

37

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Louis NAME / CODE: #07-342 MAIN FABRIC: Cotton 2436 c/008 SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

SHIRT (front)

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: AW19 COLLECTION: Basics PROTOTYPE

CD190-8

collar band

C100-3 (OS)

der

ul sho

arm

2 cm

hol

e ning)

pocket (ope

H150-45x

pocket

placket

H130-3 D210-2

H130-3 ple

ats

H110-2

TECH SPECS

om

bott

D110-0

2.5 cm

38

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

SHIRT (back)

STYLE: Louis NAME / CODE: #07-342 MAIN FABRIC: Cotton 2436 c/008 SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics PROTOTYPE

HD190-4

Sleeve Cuff Detail

HD190-5

vent

ar

coll 11 cm

yoke

5 cm

box

HD190-5

ple

at

und

3 cm

era

side

CD190-8

TECH SPECS

CD190-8

rm

D111-0 C010-1

39

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Pacha NAME / CODE: #02-343 MAIN FABRIC: Silk 0254 c/008

BLOUSE

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics

SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

PROTOTYPE

H140-12 +SE

C100-1 (OS) arm

line

neck

hol

C000-1 (OS)

e

3 cm

side

gathering

H210-1 (OS)

1.5 cm

f

cuf

bott

om

H101-9

lace 1.5 cm

TECH SPECS

40

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Chilli NAME / CODE: #11-324 MAIN FABRIC: Cotton 6374 c/825 SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

SKIRT H160-0

an

de

dge

pocke

t

eat

x pl d bo

D112-5

TECH SPECS

eam

ds tban

s

wai

panel seam

te inver

PROTOTYPE

CD190-1

wa

istb

C200-2 +SE

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics

HD190-4

botto

m

H120-1 +SE

41

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Hauts NAME / CODE: #04-968 MAIN FABRIC: Denim 0256 c/252

JEANS (front)

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics

SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

D210-2

PROTOTYPE

waistband edge

coin pocke

t

wa

istb

C110-2

and

HD190-4

sea

m

CD190-4

crotch et

ck

po

sid

e

HD190-8

C100-1 +SE

TECH SPECS

inside

42

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

JEANS (back)

STYLE: Hauts NAME / CODE: #04-968 MAIN FABRIC: Denim 0256 c/252

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics

SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

PROTOTYPE

leather tag pocket (

opening

yoke

C110-2

crotch

)

H120-0 +SE 3 cm

poc

ket

D210-4

H110-2 bottom

TECH SPECS

43

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Ninalu NAME / CODE: #04-968 MAIN FABRIC: Cotton 3256 c/008 SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

TRENCH

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics PROTOTYPE

epaulet

collar band

C100-3 (OS)

collar

upper armhole

C100-1 (OS)

end-pla

lower armhole

te

opening

HD190-8

belt pocket edge

H130-6

bottom

sleeve

pock

et se

am

HD190-8

HD190-5

HD190-8

C100-2

3 cm

side

H150-32 bottom

C110-1

3.5 cm

TECH SPECS

44

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Fabien NAME / CODE: #04-968 MAIN FABRIC: Lycra 0036 c/252 SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

BIKINI

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics PROTOTYPE

H200-3 (CS)

H100-2 (CS) dges

e cup

bott

om

1 cm

H200-3 (CS) wais

t

1 cm

CD190-1

TECH SPECS

side

crotch

45

|

Page

H100-2 (CS)

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

CHILDRENWEAR

STYLE: Lina NAME / CODE: #04-968 MAIN FABRIC: Cotton 7398 c/238 SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

placket

H200-1

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics PROTOTYPE

gathering

neck

line

D100-1

1.2 cm

CD190-1

ks

pin-tuc

t ches

seam

cuf

f

H200-1

gathering

side fle ruf ge ed

C010-1

1.2 cm

bot

tom

C100-1 +SE

H000-0 +RS TECH SPECS

46

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

STYLE: Lola NAME / CODE: #04-968 MAIN FABRIC: PVU 3254 c/008 SUPPLIER: PITU Ltd

BAG

DATE: 20/02/18 SEASON: SS19 COLLECTION: Basics PROTOTYPE

H401-9

1.5 cm

op

ge ndle ed

H000-0

ha

en

ing

C300-4 side 3 cm

C100-2

TECH SPECS

panel

C120-4

m

botto

47

|

Page

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

INDEX

ABCSEAMS

E Edge Stitch, 33 Binded, 19 Raw, 17 Roll Stitch, 17 Serged, 17 Taped, 19 Turned, 26 Unhemmed, 17 Exposed Band, 22 Piping, 24 Tape, 23

A Abbreviations, 49 About ABC Seams, 50 B Band, Exposed, 22 Basic Seam, 8 Topstitch, 34 Topstitch with Flap, 34 Binded Edge, 19 Blind Hem, 18 Stitch, 33 Boning Seam, 13 Bound(ed) Exposed Band, 22 Exposed Piping, 24 Exposed Tape, 23 Hem, 21 Seam, 11 Box Pleat, 30 Inverted (Pleat), 30

F Faced Hem, 20 Felled Seam, 10 Flat Seam, 10 Flatlock Stitch, 33 Fold Hem, 18 French Seam, 9 H Hairline Seam, 8 Hem Blind, 18 Bound, 21 Faced, 20 Fold, 18 Rolled, 18 Sandwich, 25 Hong Kong Seam, 13

C Chain Stitch, 33 Construction Seams, 7 Cover Stitch, 33 D Dart, 29 Decorative Seams, 27

48

|

Page

I Inverted Box Pleat, 30 L Lapped Seam, 14 O Open Seam, 13 Overlock Stitch, 33 P Patch Seam, 28 Pin Tuck, 29 Piping, Exposed, 24 Plain Stitch, 33 Pleat, 29 Box, 30 Inverted Box, 30 R Raw Edge, 17 Roll Stitch, 33 Edge, 17 Rolled Hem, 18 S Sandwich Hem, 25 Seam, 15 Seam(s) Basic, 8 Boning, 13 Bound, 11 Codes, 49 Construction, 7

Decorative, 27 Felled, 10 Flat, 10 French, 9 Hairline, 8 Hong Kong, 13 Lapped, 14 Open, 13 Sandwich, 15 Welt, 12 Serged Edge, 17 Stitches, 33 T Taped Edge, 23 Tech Specifics, 35 Topstitches, 34 Tuck (Pin-Tuck), 29 Turned Edge, 26 U Understitch, 33 Unhemmed Edge, 17 W Welt Seam, 12 Z Zig-Zag Stitch, 33

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018 ABCSEAMS

Codes H

C C201-9, P.13 C210-3, P.13

C010-1, P.9

CD190-1, P.15 CD190-2, P.15 CD190-4, P.15 CD190-5, P.15 CD190-8, P.15 CD190-9, P.15

H100-0 +BS, P.18 H100-1 +SE, P.18 H100-2 (CS), P.18 H100-2 (FS), P.18

D D100-1, P.29

H110-10, P.18 H110-2, P.18

D110-0, P.29 D110-10, P.29 D110-13, P.29

H120-0 +SE, P.18 H120-1 +SE, P.18 H120-2 (CS), P.18

D111-0, P.30 D111-0A, P.30 D111-1, P.30

H130-11, P.18 H130-3, P.18 H130-6, P.18

D112-0A, P.30 D112-1, P.30 D112-5, P.30

H140-11 +SE, P.20 H140-12 +SE, P.20

C101-10, P.11 C101-12, P.11 C101-9, P.11 C110-1, P.12 C110-1x, P.12 C110-2, P.12 C110-3, P.12 C120-1, P.14 C120-4, P.14 C120-4 (CS), P.14 C200-1, P.13 C200-1 +SE, P.13 C200-2, P.13 C200-2 +SE, P.13

C220-2, P.13

D210-1, P.28 D210-2, P.28 D210-3, P.28 D210-4, P.28

H200-1, P.19 H200-3 (CS), P.19

H000-0, P.17 H000-0 +RS, P.17 H000-0 +SE, P.17

C000-1, P.8 C000-1 (OS), P.8 C000-1 +SE, P.8 C100-1, P.10 C100-1 (OS), P.10 C100-1 +SE, P.10 C100-2, P.10 C100-3, P.10 C100-3 (OS), P.10 C100-4, P.10 C100-4 (CS), P.10 C100-4 (FS), P.10

Abbreviations H210-1 (OS), P.22 H210-1 + SE, P.22 H210-3, P.22 H210-4, P.22 H210-4 (CS), P.22 H210-4 (FS), P.22

H101-10, P.21 H101-12, P.21 H101-9, P.21

BS CS FS OS RS SA SE

Blind Stitch Cover Stitch Flatlock Stitch Overlock Stitch Roll Stitch Seam Allowance Serged Edge

H211-9, P.22 H310-1 (OS), P.23 H310-3, P.23 H310-3x, P.23 H310-4, P.23 H311-9, P.23 H400-1, P.24 H400-2, P.24 H400-3, P.24 H400-4, P.24 H401-9, P.24 HD190-1, P.25 HD190-10, P.25 HD190-2, P.25 HD190-4, P.25 HD190-5, P.25 HD190-8, P.25

H150-31, P.20 H150-32, P.20 H150-45x, P.20 H160-0, P.26 H160-1, P.26 H160-4, P.26

49

|

Page

Icons Most Used Favorite Low Cost Knit Jeans Picture

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

ABOUT ABC SEAMS

ABCSEAMS

We are convinced a good understanding

Using this tool has other benefits, for

is crucial to achieving excellent work.

example:

Any information, feedback or explanation

- identify with precision between one seam

between you and your team (internal and external) needs to be clear and precise. This way you avoid confusion or misunder-

and another - get better results in a shorter time - be more creative

standings. Our purpose is to help you to communicate your designs simply and effectively. To do this, we have developed a standardized sewing seams language that allows you to select, to name and to look up any seam. This way, anyone, at any time, anywhere in the world would know what kind of construction you have requested.

50

|

Page

- take more accurate decisions - increase your dressmaking knowledge

For more information, visit our website: www.abcseams.com ABC Seams Team Let’s keep in touch

CONTENTS

101 Sewing Seams | 2018

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

ABCSEAMS

EDITION Correcciones Ramos www.correccionesramos.es

To our contributors and readers troupe, thanks for the invaluable feedback, advice, and for sharing your experience and talent. Belén Asensio, Clara Serenellini, Elisenda Vidella, Eva Basagaña Rusiñol, Gabriela Bondancia, Jaime García Sánchez, Jane Cruise, Janelle Shin, Julieta Bernadó, Karen Ruiz, Mina Park, Rocío Rapisarda, Sally Brown. Thanks for the encouragement and unconditional support to Oscar Gimenez, Lidia Pace and Marcelo Santisi.

51

|

Page

CONTENTS

SMAESCBA

CONTENTS