Chilton's BMW 3-Series/M3/Z3 1989-98 Repair Manual 0801984270, 9780801990960

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Z3 M3/ ES/ ERI 3-S |989-98 REPAIR MANUAL Covers all U.S. and Canadian models of BMW 318i, 318iC, 318iS, 318ti, 323i, 323iC, 323iS, 325i, 325iC, 3251S, 325iX, 328i, 328iC, 328iS,M3 and Z3

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WAUKEGAN PUBLIC LIBRARY

JISERIESMIZ3 1989-98 REPAIR

MANUAL

Covers all U.S. arid Canadian models of BMW 318i, 318iC, 318iS, 318ti, 323i, 323iC, 323iS, 325i, S25iC, 325iS, 325iX, 328i, 328iC, 328iS, Wa

M3 and Z3

by Benjamin E. Greisler, s.A.c Sasses FWAPIARE Aviomotive Gri iGa WEG Books — PUBLISHED BY HAYNES NORTH AMERICA, Inc.

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Manufactured in USA © 1994 Haynes North America, Inc. ISBN 0-8019-8427-0 Library of Congress Catalog Card No. 92-054907 7890123456 9876543210

Haynes Publishing Group

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Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park | California 91320 USA

Contents GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY

1-36

IDLE SPEED MIXTURE AND ADJUSTMENTS

1-42

FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS TRAILER TOWING TOWING THE VEHICLE JUMP STARTING A DEAD BATTERY

FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS

JACKING

FIRING ORDERS CHARGING SYSTEM STARTING SYSTEM SENDING UNITS

DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM

DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM

ENGINE MECHANICAL EXHAUST SYSTEM

AIR POLLUTION AUTOMOTIVE EMISSIONS EMISSION CONTROLS ELECTRONIC ENGINE

ENGINE RECONDITIONING

4-21 4-28

TROUBLE CODES VACUUM DIAGRAMS

CONTROLS

FUEL SYSTEM

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

BASIC FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS FUEL LINES AND FITTINGS

ADAPTIVE MULTI-PORT FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM FUEL TANK

UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS BATTERY CABLES SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING CRUISE CONTROL

ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND WASHERS

INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES

6-20 6-24 6-26

LIGHTING : CIRCUIT PROTECTION WIRING DIAGRAMS

lo© |

Contents 7-2 —MANUALTRANSMISSION 7-8 — CLUTCH

7=18 7-19

TRANSFER CASE DRIVELINE

7-13

7-20

FRONT DRIVE AXLE

8-13

REAR SUSPENSION

8-18

STEERING

8-2

8-4

AUTOMATIC

~~ WHEELS

FRONT SUSPENSION

DRIVE TRAIN

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

9-2

beat OPERATING

9-12

REAR DISC BRAKES

9-6

EN FRONT DISC BRAKES

9-15 PARKING BRAKE 47 ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM

10-2

EXTERIOR

10-7

BRAKES

(ABS)

INTERIOR

BODY AND TRIM

11-2

TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX

11-6

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES

TROUBLESHOOTING

11-17 GLOSSARY

GLOSSARY

11-21 MASTER INDEX

MASTER INDEX

SAFETY NOTICE Proper service and repair procedures are vital to the safe, reliable operation of all motor vehicles, as well as the personal safety of those performing repairs. This manual outlines procedures for servicing and repairing vehicles using safe, effective methods. The procedures contain many NOTES, CAUTIONS and WARNINGS which should be followed, along with standard procedures to eliminate the possibility of personal injury or improper service which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.

It is important to note that repair procedures and techniques, tools and parts for servicing motor vehicles, as well as the skill and experience of the individual performing the work vary widely. It is not possible to anticipate all of the conceivable ways or conditions under which vehicles may ~ be serviced, or to provide cautions as to all possible hazards that may result. Standard and accepted safety precautions and equipment should be used when handling toxic or flammable fluids, and safety goggles or other protection should be used during cutting, grinding, chiseling, prying, or any other process that can cause material removal or projectiles.

Some procedures require the use of tools specially designed for a specific purpose. Before substituting another too! or procedure, you must be completely satisfied that neither your personal safety, nor the performance of the vehicle will be endangered.

Although information in this manual is based on industry sources and is complete as possible at the time of publication, the possibility exists that some car manufacturers made later changes which could not be included here. While striving for total accuracy, the authors or publishers cannot assume responsibility for any errors, changes or omissions that may occur in the compilation of this data.

PART NUMBERS

|

Part numbers listed in this reference are not recommendations by Haynes North America, Inc. for any product brand name. They are references that can be used with interchange manuals and aftermarket supplier catalogs to locate each brand supplier's discrete part number.

SPECIAL TOOLS Special tools are recommended by the vehicle manufacturer to perform their specific job. Use has been kept to a minimum, but where absolutely necessary, they are referred to in the text by the part number of the tool manufacturer. These tools can be purchased, under the appropriate part number, from your local dealer or regional distributor, or an equivalent too! can be purchased locally from a tool supplier or parts outlet. Before substituting any tool for the one recommended, read the SAFETY NOTICE at the top of this page.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The publisher expresses appreciation to BMW of North America for their generous assistance.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. While every attempt is madeto ensure that the information in this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given. i

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2 WHERE TO BEGIN 1-2 AVOIDING TROUBLE 1-2 MAINTENANCE OR REPAIR? 1-2 AVOIDING THE MOST COMMON MISTAKES 1-2 TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-3 SPECIAL TOOLS 1-4 SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY 1-6 DO'S 1-6 DONTS 1-6 FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 1-7 BOLTS, NUTS AND OTHER THREADED RETAINERS 1-7 TORQUE 1-7 TORQUE WRENCHES 1-8 TORQUE ANGLE METERS 1-10 STANDARD AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS 1-10 SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION 1-11 VEHICLE 1-11 MODEL IDENTIFICATION 1-11 VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION 1-11 ENGINE 1-12 MANUAL TRANSMISSION 1-12 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-14 DIFFERENTIAL 1-14 TRANSFER CASE 1-14 ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP 1-15 SERVICE/MAINTENANCE INDICATOR 1-17 RESETTING THE SERVICE INDICATOR 1-18 AIR CLEANER 1-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1-18 FUEL FILTER 1-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1-19 CV SYSTEM 1-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1-20 EVAPORATIVE CANISTER 1-20 SERVICING 1-20 BATTERY 1-20 PRECAUTIONS 1-21 GENERAL MAINTENANCE 1-21 BATTERY FLUID 1-21 CABLES 1-22 CHARGING 1-22 LOCATION 1-22 REPLACEMENT 1-22 DRIVE BELTS 1-23 INSPECTION 1-23 ADJUSTMENT 1-24 REPLACEMENT 1-24 TIMING BELT 1-26 HOSES 1-26 INSPECTION 1-26 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1-27 CV-BOOTS 1-27 INSPECTION 1-27 SPARK PLUGS 1-28 SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE 1-28 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1-28 INSPECTION & GAPPING 1-31 SPARK PLUG WIRES 1-32 TESTING 1-32 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1-32 DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR 1-33 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1-33 INSPECTION 1-34 IGNITION TIMING 1-34 VALVE LASH 1-34 ADJUSTMENT 1-34 IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS 1-36 AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM 1-37 SYSTEM SERVICE & REPAIR 1-37 PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE 1-37 SYSTEM INSPECTION 1-38 WINDSHIELD WIPERS 1-38 ELEMENT (REFILL) CARE & REPLACEMENT 1-38 TIRES AND WHEELS 1-39 TIRE ROTATION 1-39 TIRE DESIGN 1-40 TIRE STORAGE 1-40 INFLATION & INSPECTION 1-40 CARE OF SPECIAL WHEELS 1-41

FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-42 FLUID DISPOSAL 1-42 FUEL AND ENGINE OIL RECOMMENDATIONS 1-42 OIL 1-42 FUEL 1-43 ENGINE 1-43 OIL LEVEL CHECK 1-43 OIL AND FILTER CHANGE 1-43 FILLING DRIVETRAIN FLUIDS 1-45 MANUAL TRANSMISSION 1-45 FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS 1-45 LEVEL CHECK 1-46 DRAIN AND REFILL 1-46 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-46 FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS 1-47 FLUID LEVEL CHECK 1-47 DRAIN AND REFILL 1-49 PAN REMOVAL AND FILTER SERVICE 1-49 TRANSFER CASE 1-51 FLUID RECOMMENDATION 1-51 LEVEL CHECK 1-51 DRAIN AND REFILL 1-51 DIFFERENTIAL 1-51 FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS 1-51 LEVEL CHECK 1-51 DRAIN AND REFILL 1-51 COOLING SYSTEM 1-52 FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS 1-52 LEVEL CHECK 1-52 DRAIN AND REFILL 1-52 FLUSHING AND CLEANING 1-53 CLUTCH AND BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER 1-53 FLUID RECOMMENDATION 1-53 LEVEL CHECK 1-53 POWER STEERING PUMP 1-53 FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS 1-53 LEVEL CHECK 1-53 CHASSIS GREASING 1-54 BODY LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-54 LOCK CYLINDERS 1-54 DOOR HINGES, LATCHES, STRIKERS AND CATCHES 1-54 BODY DRAIN HOLES 1-54 PAINT 1-54 UNDERHOOD 1-54 GLASS 1-54 RUBBER SEALS AND TRIM 1-54 SEATBELTS 1-54 UPHOLSTERY 1-54 WHEEL BEARINGS 1-54 REPACKING 1-54 TRAILER TOWING 1-54 TOWING THE VEHICLE 1-54 JUMP STARTING A DEAD BATTERY 1-55 JUMP STARTING PRECAUTIONS 1-55 JUMP STARTING PROCEDURE 1-55 JUMP STARTING 1-55 JACKING 1-56 CHANGING TIRES 1-56 COMPONENT LOCATIONS UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—E36 4-CYLINDER ENGINE 1-15 UNDERHOOD MAINTENANCE COMPONENT LOCATIONS—E36 6-CYLINDER ENGINE 1-16 SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS ENGINE AND VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION 1-12 GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS 1-13 ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS 1-36 MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS 1-58 CAPACITIES 1-60

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE HOW TO USE THIS BOOK TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP

1-2 1-3 1-6 1-7 1-11 1-15

IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS

1-36

FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS

1-42

TRAILER TOWING

1-54

TOWING THE VEHICLE 1-54 JUMP STARTING A DEAD BATTERY 1-55 JACKING 1-56

1-2

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Chilton’s Total Car Care manual for the 1989-98 BMW 3 Series and 1996-98 BMW Z3 Series models is intended to help you learn more about the inner workings of your vehicle while saving you money on its upkeep and operation. The beginning of the book will likely be referred to the most, since that is where you will find information for maintenance and tune-up. The other sections deal with the more complex systems of your vehicle. Operating systems from engine through brakes are covered to the extent that the average doit-yourselfer becomes mechanically involved. This book will not explain such things as rebuilding a differential for the simple reason that the expertise required and the investment in special tools make this task uneconomical. It will, however, give you detailed instructions to help you change your own brake pads and shoes, replace spark plugs, and perform many more jobs that can save you money, give you personal satisfaction and help you avoid expensive problems. A secondary purpose of this book is a reference for owners who want to understand their vehicle and/or their mechanics better. In this case, no tools at all are required.

Where to Begin Before removing any bolts, read through the entire procedure. This will give you the overall view of what tools and supplies will be required. There is nothing more frustrating than having to walk to the bus stop on Monday morning because you were short one bolt on Sunday afternoon. So read ahead and plan ahead. Each operation should be approached logically and all procedures thoroughly understood before attempting any work. All sections contain adjustments, maintenance, removal and installation procedures, and in some cases, repair or overhaul procedures. When repair is not considered practical, we tell you how to remove the part and then how to install the new or rebuilt replacement. In this way, you at least save labor costs. “Backyard” repair of some components is just not practical. As with any vehicle, many enthusiasts find easier methods or time saving tips and suggestions. The web site www.unofficialbmw.com is a great source of tips, information, and product

You don’t need to know the official or engineering name for each hose or line. A piece of masking tape on the hose and a piece on its fitting will allow you to assign your own label such as the letter A or a short name. As long as you remember your own — code, the lines can be reconnected by matching similar letters or names. Do remember that tape will dissolve in gasoline or other fluids; if a component is to be washed or cleaned, use another method of identification. A permanent felt-tipped marker or a metal scribe can be very handy for marking metal parts. Remove any tape or paper labels after assembly.

Maintenance or Repair? It's necessary to mention the difference between maintenance and repair. Maintenance includes routine inspections, adjustments, and replacement of parts which show signs of normal wear. Maintenance compensates for wear or deterioration. Repair implies that something has broken or is not working. A need for repair is often caused by lack of maintenance. Example: draining and refilling the automatic transmission fluid is maintenance recommended by the manufacturer at specific mileage intervals. Failure to do this can shorten the life of the transmission/transaxle, requiring very expensive repairs. While no maintenance program can prevent items from breaking or wearing out, a general rule can be stated: MAINTENANCE IS CHEAPER THAN REPAIR. Two basic mechanic's rules should be mentioned here. First, whenever the left side of the vehicle or engine is referred to, it is meant to specify the driver's side. Conversely, the right side of the vehicle means the passenger's side. Second, screws and bolts are removed by turning counterclockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise unless specifically noted. Safety is always the most important rule. Constantly be aware of the dangers involved in working on an automobile and take the proper precautions. See the information in this section regarding SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY and the SAFETY NOTICE on the acknowledgment page.

Avoiding the Most Common Mistakes

reviews. Pay attention to the instructions provided. There

Avoiding Trouble Many procedures in this book require you to ~ “label and disconnect. . . “a group of lines, . hoses or wires. Don't be lulled into thinking you can remember where everything goes—you won't. Ifyou hook up vacuum or fuel lines incorrectly, the ~ vehicle may run poorly, if at all. If you hook up ‘electrical wiring incorrectly, you may instantly learn a very expensive lesson.

: are 3 common mistakes in mechanical work:

1. Incorrect order of assembly, disassembly or adjustment. When taking something apart or putting it together, performing steps in the wrong order usually just costs you extra time; however, it CAN break something. Read the entire procedure before beginning disassembly. Perform everything in the order in which the instructions say you should,

even ifyou can't immediately see a reason for it. When you're taking apart something that is very

intricate, you might want to draw a picture of how it looks when assembled at one point in order to make sure you get everything back in its proper position. We will supply exploded views whenever possible. When making adjustments, perform them in the proper order. One adjustment possibly will affect another. 2. Overtorquing (or undertorquing). While it is more common for overtorquing to cause damage, undertorquing may allow a fastener to vibrate loose causing serious damage. Especially when dealing with aluminum parts, pay attention to torque specifications and utilize a torque wrench in assembly. If a torque figure is not available, remember that if you are using the right tool to perform the job, you will probably not have to strain yourself to get a fastener tight enough. The pitch of most threads is so slight that the tension you put on the wrench will be multiplied many times in actual force on what you are tightening. A good example of how critical torque is can be seen in the case of spark plug installation, especially where you are putting the plug into an aluminum cylinder head. Too little torque can fail to crush the gasket, causing leakage of combustion gases and consequent overheating of the plug and engine parts. Too much torque can damage the threads or distort the plug, changing the spark gap. There are many commercial products available for ensuring that fasteners won't come loose, even if they are not torqued just right (a very common

brand is Loctite(). If you're worried about getting something together tight enough to hold, but loose enough to avoid mechanical damage during assembly, one of these products might offer substantial insurance. Before choosing a threadlocking compound, read the label on the package and make sure the product is compatible with the materials, fluids, etc. involved. 3. Crossthreading. This occurs when a part such as a bolt is screwed into a nut or casting at the wrong angle and forced. Crossthreading is more likely to occur ifaccess is difficult. It helps to clean and lubricate fasteners, then to start threading the bolt, spark plug, etc. with your fingers. If you encounter resistance, unscrew the part and start over again at a different angle until it can be

inserted and turned several times without much effort. Keep in mind that many parts, especially spark plugs, have tapered threads, so that gentle turning will automatically bring the part you're threading to the proper angle. Don’t put a wrench on the part until its been tightened a couple of turns by hand. If you suddenly encounter resistance, and the part has not seated fully, don't force it. Pull it back out to make sure it's clean and threading properly. Be sure to take your time and be patient, and always plan ahead. Allow yourself ample time to

perform repairs and maintenance. You may find maintaining your car a satisfying and enjoyable experience. ?

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

1-3

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT > See Figures 1 thru 15 Naturally, without the proper tools and equipment it is impossible to properly service your vehicle. It would also be virtually impossible to catalog every tool that you would need to perform all of the operations in this book. Of course, It

would be unwise for the amateur to rush out and buy an expensive set of tools on the theory that he/she may need one or more of them at some time. The best approach is to proceed slowly, gathering a good quality set of those tools that are used most frequently. Don't be misled by the low cost of

bargain tools. It is far better to spend a little more for better quality. Forged wrenches, 6 or 12-point sockets and fine tooth ratchets are by far preferable to their less expensive counterparts. As any good mechanic can tell you, there are few worse experiences than trying to work on a vehicle with bad tools. Your monetary savings will be far outweighed by frustration and mangled knuckles. Begin accumulating those tools that are used most frequently: those associated with routine maintenance and tune-up. In addition to the normal assortment of screwdrivers and pliers, you should have the following tools:

TCCS1201

Fig. 1 All but the most basic procedures will require an assortment of ratchets and sockets

TCCS1203

Fig. 4 An assortment of pliers, grippers and cutters will be handy for old rusted parts and stripped bolt heads

TCCS1209

Fig. 7 Although not always necessary, using specialized brake tools will save

time

Fig. 2 In addition to ratchets, a good set of wrenches and hex keys will be necessary

TCCS1204

e Wrenches/sockets and combination open end/box end wrenches in sizes from ¥% —%% in. or 3-19mm, as well aS a %e in. or % in. spark plug socket (depending on plug type). e>if possible, buy various length socket drive extensions. Universal-joint and wobble extensions can be extremely useful, but be careful

when using them, as they can change the amount of torque applied to the socket.

e Jackstands for support. e Oil filter wrench. e Spout or funnel for pouring fluids.

TCCS1202

Fig. 3 A hydraulic floor jack and a set of jackstands are essential for lifting and supporting the vehicle

TCCS1205

Fig. 6 Many repairs will require the use of Fig. 5 Various drivers, chisels and prybars are great tools to have in your toolbox

TCCS1210

Fig. 8 A few inexpensive lubrication tools will make maintenance easier

a torque wrench to assure the components are properly fastened

TCCS1211

Fig. 9 Various pullers, clamps and separator tools are needed for many larger, more complicated repairs

1-4

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

Le7g TCCX1P01

TCCS1212

Fig. 10 A variety of tools and gauges should be used for spark plug gapping and installation

TCCX1P02

Fig. 11 Inductive type timing light

Fig. 12 A screw-in type compression gauge is recommended for compression testing

~TCCXIPO6 Fig. 14 Most modern automotive multimeters incorporate many helpful features

Fig. 15 Proper information is vital, so always have a Chilton Total Car Care manual handy

A more advanced set of tools, suitable for tuneup work, can be drawn up easily. While the tools are slightly more sophisticated, they need not be outrageously expensive. There are several inexpensive tach/dwell meters on the market that are every bit as good for the average mechanic as a professional model. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500 rpm on the tach scale and that it works on 4, 6 and 8-cylinder engines. The key to these purchases is to make them with an eye towards adaptability and wide range. A basic list of tune-up tools could include: e Tach/dwell meter. e Spark plug wrench and gapping tool. e Feeler gauges for valve adjustment. ¢ Timing light. The choice of a timing light should be made carefully. A light which works on the DC current supplied by the vehicle's battery is the best choice; it should have a xenon tube for brightness. On any vehicle with an electronic ignition system, a timing light with an inductive pickup that clamps around the No. 1 spark plug cable is preferred. In addition to these basic tools, there are several other tools and gauges you may find useful. These include: ¢ Compression gauge. The screw-in type is slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a faulty reading due to. escaping pressure, e Manifold vacuum gauge. ¢ 12V test light.

e A combination volt/ohmmeter e Induction Ammeter. This is used for determining whether or not there is current in a wire. These are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in

Tocs1213 TCCX1P03

Fig. 13 A vacuum/pressure tester is necessary for many testing procedures

e Grease gun for chassis lubrication (unless your vehicle is not equipped with any grease fittings—for details, please refer to information on Fluids and Lubricants, later in this section). ¢ Hydrometer for checking the battery (unless equipped with a sealed, maintenance-free battery). ¢ Acontainer for draining oil and other fluids. e Rags for wiping up the inevitable mess. In addition to the above items there are several others that are not absolutely necessary, but handy to have around. These include Oil Dry( (or an equivalent oil absorbent gravel—such as cat litter) and the usual supply of lubricants, antifreeze and fluids, although these can be purchased as needed. This is a basic list for routine maintenance, but only your personal needs and desire can accurately determine your list of tools. After performing a few projects on the vehicle, you'll be amazed at the other tools and non-tools on your workbench. Some useful household items are: a large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee cans and ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging lines or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for plugging vacuum lines), metal coat hangers or a roll of mechanic's wire (to hold things out of the way), dental pick or similar long, pointed probe, a strong magnet, and a small mirror (to see into recesses and under

manifolds).

a wiring harness. As a final note, you will probably find a torque

wrench necessary for all but the most basic work. The beam type models are perfectly adequate, although the newer click types (breakaway) are easier to use. The click type torque wrenches tend to be more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of torque wrenches should be periodically checked and/or recalibrated. You will have to decide for yourself which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.

Special Tools Normally, the use of special factory tools is avoided for repair procedures, since these are not readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic. When it is possible to perform the job with more commonly available tools, it will be pointed out, but occasionally, a special tool was designed to perform a specific function and should be used. Before substituting another tool, you should be convinced that neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle will be compromised. Special tools can usually be purchased from an automotive parts store or from your dealer. In some cases special tools may be available directly from the tool manufacturer.

DIAGNOSTIC TEST EQUIPMENT

Modern vehicles equipped with computer-controlled fuel, emission and ignition systems require modern electronic tools to diagnose problems. Many of these tools are designed solely for the professional mechanic and are too costly and difficult to use for the average do-it-yourselfer. However, various automotive aftermarket companies have introduced products that address the needs of the average home mechanic, providing sophisticated information at affordable cost. Consult your local auto parts store to determine what is available for your vehicle.

Digital multimeters come in a variety of styles and are a “must-have” for any serious home mechanic. Digital multimeters measure voltage (volts), resistance (ohms) and sometimes current (amperes). These versatile tools are used for checking all types of electrical or electronic components

Trouble code tools allow the home mechanic to extract the “fault code” number from an on-board computer that has sensed a problem (usually indicated by a Check Engine light). Armed with this code, the home mechanic can focus attention on a suspect system or component

Sensor testers perform specific checks on many of the sensors and actuators used on today’s computercontrolled vehicles. These testers can check sensors both on or off the vehicle, as well as test the accompanying electrical circuits

~ ; nite Hand-held scanners represent the most sophisticated of all do-ityourself diagnostic tools. These tools do more than just access computer codes like the code readers above; they provide the user with an actual interface into the vehicle’s computer. Comprehensive data on specific makes and models will come with the tool, either

built-in or as a separate cartridge

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1-6

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

SERVICING YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight, not cocked. ¢ Do, when possible, pull on a wrench handle rather than push on it, and adjust your stance to

> See Figures 16, 17, 18 and 19 It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the hazards involved with automotive maintenance and service, but care and common sense will prevent most accidents.

prevent a fall. e Do be sure that adjustable wrenches are

TCCS1023

Fig. 19 NEVER work under a vehicle unless it is supported using safety stands (jackstands)

TCCS1020

Fig. 16 Screwdrivers should be kept in good condition to prevent injury or damage which could result if the blade slips from the screw

TWO-WiIRE CONDUCTOR THIRO WIRE GROUNDING THE CASE

THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR ONE WIRE TO 4 GROUND

THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR pyres THRU

THREE-WIRE CONDUCTOR GROUNDING THRU AN ADAPTER PLUG

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Fig. 17 Power tools should always be properly grounded

TCCS1022

Fig.18 Using the correct size wrench will

helpUshi theberet eh of rounding off

The rules of safety for mechanics range from “don’t smoke around gasoline,” to “use the proper tool(s) for the job.” The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.

e Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit handy. e Do wear Safety glasses or goggles when cutting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have 20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vision, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses. ¢ Do shield your eyes whenever you work around the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek immediate medical attention. e Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any undervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles; jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the ground and set the parking brake. ¢ Do use adequate ventilation when working with any chemicals or hazardous materials. Like carbon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from some brake lining wear can be hazardous in sufficient quantities. ¢ Do disconnect the negative battery cable when working on the electrical system. The secondary ignition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLTAGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts. ¢ Do follow manufacturer's directions whenever working with potentially hazardous materials. Most chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken internally. ¢ Do properly maintain your tools. Loose hammerheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end), cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight sockets can cause accidents. e Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and

often harming your knuckles in the idee

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al

tightly closed on the nut or bolt and pulled so that the force is on the side of the fixed jaw. e Do strike squarely with a hammer; avoid glancing blows. ¢ Do set the parking brake and block the drive wheels if the work requires a running engine.

e Don't run the engine in a garage or anywhere else without proper ventilation—EVER! Carbon monoxide is poisonous; it takes a long time to leave the human body and you can build up a deadly supply of it in your system by simply breathing in a little every day. You may not realize you are slowly poisoning yourself. Always use power vents, windows, fans and/or open the garage door. ¢ Don't work around moving parts while wearing loose clothing. Short sleeves are much safer than long, loose sleeves. Hard-toed shoes with neoprene soles protect your toes and give a better grip on slippery surfaces. Jewelry such as watches, fancy belt buckles, beads or body adornment of any kind is not safe working around a vehicle. Long hair should be tied back under a hat or cap. e Don't use pockets for toolboxes. A fall or bump can drive a screwdriver deep into your body. Even a rag hanging from your back pocket can wrap around a spinning shaft or fan. ¢ Don't smoke when working around gasoline, cleaning solvent or other flammable material. ¢ Don't smoke when working around the battery. When the battery is being charged, it gives off explosive hydrogen gas. e Don't use gasoline to wash your hands; there are excellent soaps available. Gasoline contains dangerous additives which can enter the body through a cut or through your pores. Gasoline also removes all the natural oils from the skin so that bone dry hands will suck up oil and grease. ¢ Don't service the air conditioning system unless you are equipped with the necessary tools and training. When liquid or compressed gas refrigerant is released to atmospheric pressure itwill absorb heat from whatever it contacts. This will chill or freeze anything ittouches. e Don't use screwdrivers for anything other than driving screws! A screwdriver used as an prying tool can snap when you least expect it,causing injuries. At the very least, you'll ruin a goodscrewdriver. ° Don't use an emergency jack (hatlittle ratchet, scissors, or pantograph jack supplied with the vehicle) for anything other than changing a flat! These jacks are only intended for emergency use

out on the road; they are NOT designedasa malntenance tool. Ifyou are serious about your vehicle yourself, i i

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

1-7

FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS Bolts, Nuts and Other Threaded Retainers > See Figures 20, 21, 22 and 23 ->BMW uses fastener diameters and thread pitches that may be unique to certain components. Make sure to label and carefully organize the fasteners during disassembly and repair procedures.

Although there are a great variety of fasteners found in the modern car or truck, the most commonly used retainer is the threaded fastener (nuts, bolts, screws, studs, etc.), Most threaded retainers

may be reused, provided that they are not damaged in use or during the repair. Some retainers (such as stretch bolts or torque prevailing nuts) are designed to deform when tightened or in use and should not be reinstalled. Whenever possible, we will note any special retainers which should be replaced during a procedure. But you should always inspect the condition of a retainer when it is removed and replace any that show signs of damage. Check all threads for rust or corrosion which can increase the torque necessary to

achieve the desired clamp load for which that fastener was originally selected. Additionally, be sure that the driver surface of the fastener has not been compromised by rounding or other damage. In some cases a driver surface may become only partially rounded, allowing the driver to catch in only one direction. In many of these occurrences, a fastener may be installed and tightened, but the driver would not be able to grip and loosen the fastener again. (This could lead to frustration down the line should that component ever need to be disassembled again).

lf you must replace a fastener, whether due to design or damage, you must ALWAYS be sure to use the proper replacement. In all cases, a retainer of the same design, material and strength should be used. Markings on the heads of most bolts will help determine the proper strength of the fastener. The same material, thread and pitch must be selected to assure proper installation and safe operation of the vehicle afterwards. Thread gauges are available to help measure a bolt or stud’s thread. Most automotive and hardware stores keep gauges available to help you select the proper size. In a pinch, you can use another nut or bolt for a thread gauge. If the bolt you are replacing is not too badly damaged, you can select a match by

Ge)Ge © © POZIDRIVE

PHILLIPS

RECESS

TORX

CLUTCH

HEXAGON

HEXAGON

TRIMMED

HEXAGON

RECESS

TCCS1038

Fig. 22 Threaded retainer sizes are determined using these measurements

Fig. 23 Special fasteners such as these Torx( head bolts are used by manufacturers to discourage people from working on vehicles without the proper tools

finding another bolt which will thread in its place. If

WASHER

HEAD

TCCS1037

Fig. 20 Here are a few of the most common screw/bolt driver styles

Length Diameter (major diameter) Threads per inch or mm Thread length Size of the wrench required Root diameter (minor diameter)

TCCS1016

C-0© INDENTED

~ ~ -

you find a nut which threads properly onto the damaged bolt, then use that nut to help select the replacement bolt. If however, the bolt you are replacing is so badly damaged (broken or drilled out) that its threads cannot be used as a gauge, you might start by looking for another bolt (from the same assembly or a similar location on your vehicle) which will thread into the damaged bolt’s mounting. If so, the other bolt can be used to select a nut; the nut can then be used to select the replacement bolt. In all cases, be absolutely sure you have selected the proper replacement. Don't be shy, you can always ask the store clerk for help.

Be aware that when you find a bolt with damaged threads, you may also find the nut or drilled hole it was threaded into has also been damaged. If this is the case, you may have to drill and tap the hole, replace the nut or otherwise repair the threads. NEVER try to force a replacement bolt to fit into the damaged threads.

Torque is defined as the measurement of resistance to turning or rotating. It tends to twist a body TCCS1036

about an axisofrotation.

Acommon example of

this would be tightening a threaded retainer such as iy

am!

pe

1-8

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

a nut, bolt or screw. Measuring torque is one of the most common ways to help assure that a threaded retainer has been properly fastened. When tightening a threaded fastener, torque is applied in three distinct areas, the head, the bearing surface and the clamp load. About 50 percent of the measured torque is used in overcoming bearing friction. This is the friction between the bearing surface of the bolt head, screw head or nut face and the base material or washer (the surface on which the fastener is rotating). Approximately 40 percent of the applied torque is used in overcoming thread friction. This leaves only about 10 percent of the applied torque to develop a useful clamp load (the force which holds a joint together). This means that friction can account for as much as 90 percent of the applied torque on a fastener.

TORQUE WRENCHES > See Figures 24, 25 and 26 In most applications, a torque wrench can be used to assure proper installation of a fastener. Torque wrenches come in various designs and most automotive supply stores will carry a variety to suit. your needs. A torque wrench should be used any time we supply a specific torque value for a fastener. A torque wrench can also be used if you are following the general guidelines in the accompanying charts. Keep in mind that because there is no worldwide standardization of fasteners, the charts are a general guideline and should be used with caution. Again, the general rule of “if you are using the right tool for the job, you should not have to strain to tighten a fastener” applies here.

RIGID CASE, DIAL INDICATOR

CLICK TYPE

TCCS1015

Fig. 24 Various styles of torque wrenches are usually available at your local automotive supply store

Hexagon head bolt Bolt head No. 4

Hexagon flange bolt Grooved

w/ washer hexagon bolt

Hexagon head bolt

K«««_ KK Hexagon flange bolt protruding

w/ washer hexagon bolt

Hexagon head bolt

Hexagon head bolt S

protruding lines

Meant

54

;

Sue

cauaiin

ofmetric fasteners—NOTE: thisis a typical bolt marking syst Strength

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE Diameter

Specified torque Hexagon head bolt kgf-cm

55

Hexagon flange bolt

ft-Ibf

48 in.-|bf

N-m

6

kgf-cm

60

ft-Ibf

52 in.-

130

9

145

10

260

19

290

21

480

35

540

39

760

55

1,150

83

56 i 12 24 43 67

~ Teest241

~ Beam Type tigh ae ‘abSee Figure27 gia an

Theelhe toquewn popular cons ap

the headthatrunsthelengthofut (shaft) tr oah

1-9

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

1-10

TCCS1040

Fig. 28 A click type or breakaway torque

wrench—note that this one has a pivoting head TCCS1042

TCCS1043

Fig. 30 The rigid case (direct reading) torque wrench uses a dial indicator to show torque

Fig. 31 Some specifications require the use of a torque angle meter (mechanical protractor)

can be held at any position on the wrench without

torque angle method of installation would be specified. When installing fasteners which are torque angle tightened, a predetermined seating torque and standard torque wrench are usually used first to remove any compliance from the joint. The fastener is then tightened the specified additional portion of a turn measured in degrees. A torque angle gauge (mechanical protractor) is used for these applications.

affecting accuracy. These wrenches are often pre-

ferred because they tend to be compact, easy to read and have a great degree of accuracy.

TORQUE ANGLE METERS PIVOTED

HANDLE

TORQUE

WRENCH TCCS1041

Fig. 29 Torque wrenches with pivoting heads must be grasped and used properly to prevent an incorrect reading

-Teached, the wrench has a reflex signaling feature that Causes a momentary breakaway of the torque wrench body, sending an impulse to the operator's hand.

> See Figure 31 Because the frictional characteristics of each fastener or threaded hole will vary, clamp loads which are based strictly on torque will vary as well. In most applications, this variance is not significant enough to cause worry. But, in certain applications, a manufac- ~ turer's engineers may determine that more precise clamp loads are necessary (such is the case with many aluminum cylinder heads). In these cases, a

Pivot Head Type

Standard and Metric Measurements » See Figure 32 Throughout this manual, specifications are given to help you determine the condition of various com-

CONVERSION

> See Figures 28 and 29

FACTORS

LENGTH-DISTANCE

Some torque wrenches (usually of the click type) may be equipped with a pivot head which can allow itto be used in areas of limited access. BUT, it must be used properly. To hold a pivot head wrench, .

grasp the handle lightly, and as you pull on the handle, it should be floated on the pivot point. If the ‘ = 5 handle comes in contact with the yoke extension

during the process of pulling, there is a very good j j chance the torque readings will be jinaccurate because this could alter the wrench loading point. The design of the handle is usually such as to make iti j i j it inconvenient to deliberately misuse the wrench. >it should be mentioned that the use of any Ujoint, wobble or extension will have an effect

on the torque readings, no matter what type of

wrench you are using. For the most accurate .

___

x254

x 305 x 1.609

easter ‘ints nar Ge

phe ae aii

it.)

IMP Gallons (IMP gal.) IMP Quarts (IMP gt.) eer aphyien’ 4. Fl. Ounces US Pints (US pt.) tapeerhipisic.e US Gallons (US gal.) MASS-WEIGHT Oui ont(oz.)

x 4.546 x 1.201 ee

x29573 473 TRA) 43985,

Pounds Per Sq. In. (psi)

x 6.895 x 4912

Inches of Mercury (Hg)

ay

appl eaay

Ioches of Weter O10) inches of

ater

Py

3

um

‘orce

Inches

(in-|

(which hold a socket directly under the wrench

Pounds-Force Feet (ft-1b)

driver) will have the least effect on the torque

VELOCITY

4 the readings; avoid their use at all times. di

-

i

i

Rigid Case (Direct Reading)

6 eacapracca = Liters ei thats

= Inches = Feet

= Miles

nas us pie = ap nae

xl

= Liters (L) = US Quarts (US qt.) xete cn oat = Millilters = Liters (L) Gian = Liters (L)

= psi

x2 833 iat

= IMPgal.

x.034 2113 See Figures 79, 80, 81, 82 and 83 1. If installed, remove the protective dust cap from the front of the tensioner roller. 2. Loosen the pivot bolt on the tensioner roller. 3. Insert a hex wrench into the tensioner roller, turning counterclockwise to increase tension and clockwise to reduce tension. 4. When the desired tension is achieved, tighten the tensioner roller pivot bolt. Serpentine Belt The serpentine belt is tensioned by a spring loaded tensioner assembly. No adjustment is possible.

Sometimes a drive belt must be removed to gain access to perform other repairs. Always mark the direction of rotation of any belt that is to be removed. This will help to prolong the belt’s service life.

V-Belt > See Figures 84 and 85 Replace belts with the proper part. Make sure the belt is not only the correct length, but also the correct inner and outer width. A belt that is too short will put an excessive load on the component and potentially internally damage its bearings. A belt

ADJUSTMENT V-Belt

> See Figure 78 1. Loosen the locknut for the slotted adjustment bracket and the pivoting fasteners. 2. Move the component to achieve the desired belt tension. If equipped with a geared tensioner roller, use the roller to achieve the proper belt tension. 3. Tighten the slotted adjustment locknut, then the pivoting fasteners.

90961P51

Fig. 79 The tensioning rollers have dust covers that are removed when adjusting or replacing the belts

Fig. 80 The multi-ribbed V-belt is adjusted by loosening the 1) pivot bolt and rotating the tensioning roller with the 2) hex shaped tensioning socket

Kad

90961P45

Fig. 81 View of the 10mm adjustment hex, which is shown by the mirror, in the tensioner roller body

90961P53

90961P52

Fig. 82 With the dust cover removed, insert a 10mm hex tool into the tensioner body, then. . .

Fig. 83. . . loosen the lock bolt, adjust

the tension with the hex tool and retighten the lock bolt

~

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE that is too long will slip causing premature belt wear and heat from the slippage. Replace the multiple belts in sets only, as work belts stretch and mixing stretched belts with new ones will prevent even distribution of the load. ->Do not attempt to change belt tension or rotate an accessory for belt replacement without loosening both the adjustment bolt (the bolt which runs in a slotted bracket) and the pivot bolt.

Many components come equipped with

toothed bolt adjusters that prevent having to pry on the component to tension the belt. If the component is not equipped with a toothed bolt adjuster, don’t pry the component with a prytool. You should be able to get sufficient belt tension by hand. This applies especially to components with aluminum castings or air/fluid pumps, where distortion of the housing can be a catastrophic

problem. If you must pry, make sure the adjustment fasteners are loose and protect the component by placing a small block of wood between the component and the prytool. Pry as close to the pulley as possible, to avoid distorting the housing of the component. Some accessory mounting brackets are designed with a slot or square hole into which you can insert a socket drive for tensioning purposes. To replace a belt, first locate the pivot bolt. This holds the unit to the engine block or to a short bracket which has only a hole—no slot. If the pivot bolt does not use a nut welded onto the back of the accessory or a bracket you will have to apply wrenches at both ends; to both the bolt and nut, to

loosen this bolt. Loosen the bolt slightly—don't release all tension, as you will want the accessory to stay securely mounted to get an accurate tension adjustment later. 1. Loosen the adjusting bolt locknut. 2. Move the component toward the engine to release the belt tension. If additional movement is needed, it may be necessary to remove the adjustment bolt entirely. 3. Remove the belt. To install: 4. Position the belt around all the pulleys. Make sure it is fully seated into all the pulley grooves. 5. Tighten the tensioner lock nut slightly, but not enough that the component cannot be moved. 6. Move the component as necessary to achieve the correct belt tension, then tighten the adjustment locknut. e>When installing a new belt (one run less than 10 minutes), start the engine and allow to idle for 10 minutes, then recheck the belt tension and adjust as necessary.

Multi-Ribbed V-Belts » See Figure 84 1. Before removing the belt, take note of the routing of the belt over the pulleys. If there is not a diagram on an underhood sticker, draw a diagram of the routing. 2. If installed, remove the protective dust cap from the front of the tensioner roller. 3. Loosen the pivot bolt on the tensioner roller. 4. Rotate the pulley clockwise to release the

84271029

- 90961P50

Fig. 84 Always note a belt’s direction of rotation before removal if the belt is to be

Fig. 85 Location of the adjuster bolt on the alternator—E36 318i shown

Fig. 88 The tensioner on M44 engines can be held in the retracted position by inserting a suitable drill bit or hex tool through

the holes in the tensioner and bracket

1-25

tension in the belt. If additional movement is needed, remove the tensioner roller. 5. Remove the belt from the pulleys. To install:

6. When replacing the belt, be sure that the belt is fully seated in the grooves and that it is properly routed. 7. Insert a hex wrench into the tensioner roller turning counterclockwise to increase tension and clockwise to reduce tension. 8. When the desired tension is achieved, tighten the tensioner roller pivot bolt. Serpentine Belts » See Figures 86 thru 92

Some BMW models use an automatic hydraulic belt tensioner that is filled with oil. If this tensioner is removed it must be stored upright. If improperly stored, bleed the tensioner by compressing it in an upright position several times. When replacing a serpentine belt make sure to use an exact fitting replacement belt, as the belt tension is provided by a spring loaded tensioner assembly. A belt that is too long will have insufficient tension. A belt that is too short will have excessive belt tension. e>lf the serpentine belt is not being replaced, make sure to mark the belt’s direction of rotation before removing. Reinstall the belt in the same direction from which is was removed.

Fig. 86 The automatic belt tensioner is moved to release the belt tension allowing the belt to be removed—M44 engine

Fig. 89 Belt routing on the E36 series 325i

| with the M50 engine

—

1-26

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

90961613

84271031

Fig. 90 Removing tension from the belt tensioner roller

1. If installed, remove the protective dust cap from the front of the tensioner roller. 2. Move the self tensioning to release the tension on the drive belt. On M44 engines, if necessary, lock the tensioner retracted by installing a %46 inch drill bit or 4mm hex tool through the eyelet of the tensioner body and its mounting bracket to keep the tensioner retracted. 3. Remove the belt from the pulleys. To install: 4. Properly route the belt around the tensioner roller and all but one of the pulleys, making sure the belt is fully seated in the pulley grooves and properly routed. 5. If installed, move the automatic tensioner enough to remove holding too! used to keep the tensioner retracted. 6. Keep the automatic tensioner fully retracted while applying a slight load to the belt to keep in place and move the belt over the remaining pulley. 7. Slowly and carefully release the tensioner assembly to apply tension to the belt. 8. Verify the belt is properly routed and fully seated before starting the engine.

AIR CONDITIONER BELTS

Although most of the BMW models covered in

a. Locate the protruding hex on the tensioner housing. b. Install a suitable tool onto the provided hex head and rotate the tensioner assembly to relieve the belt tension. 3. While relieving the belt tension, remove the air conditioner drive belt. 4. On versions with a pivoting tensioner roller: a. Remove the tensioner dust cover. b. Insert a 10mm hex tool into the body of the tensioner, then loosen the pivot bolt. c. Rotate the tensioner clockwise to relieve the belt tension. 5. While relieving the belt tension, remove the air conditioner drive belt. 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

this manual use timing chains to drive the camshaft(s), a timing belt is used to drive the

camshaft on the M20B25 engine. These engines were installed in the BMW 325i models and available through model year 1993 in production of the E30 series 325i Convertible. The timing belt should be checked during each service and replaced as follows: e |f damaged or contaminated by fluids or debris e |f removed for any reason to perform another repair

e lf the last replacement interval cannot be determined e Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or every 4 years

Timing Belt INSPECTION Timing belt maintenance is extremely important! The 325i models utilize an interference-type, non-free-wheeling engine. If

> See Figures 93, 94, 95 and 96 Upper and lower radiator hoses, along with the heater hoses, should be checked for deterioration, leaks and loose hose clamps at least every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). It is also wise to check the hoses periodically in early spring and at the beginning of the fall or winter when you are performing other maintenance. A quick visual inspection could discover a weakened hose which might have left you stranded if it had remained unrepaired. Whenever you are checking the hoses, make

the timing belt breaks, the valves in the

1. On versions with a hydraulic belt tensioner: a. Remove the dust cover from the center of the tensioning roller. b. Insert a suitable tool on the tensioning roller mounting bolt and press in a clockwise motion to relieve the belt tension. 2. On versions with a spring loaded mechanical tensioner:

~ Tocsi219 |

Fig. 92 On E36 model 6-cylinder engines, the tensioner mounting bolt is used to release the tension on the serpentine belt

Fig. 91 On E36 model 6-cylinder engines, remove the tensioner cover to access the tensioner mounting bolt

Fig. 93 The cracks developing along this

_ | hose are a result of age-related hardening

cylinder head may strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also time-consuming and expensive) engine damage. The recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is 50,000 miles (80,000 km), or every 4 years if not sooner. Refer to Section 3 for information on servicing the timing belt.

;

~T¢¢§1200-

Fig. 94 A hose clamp that is too tight can Cause older hoses to separate and tear on

either side ofthe clamp

Fig. 95 A soft spongy

—

the swollen section) \

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE ET

LE

OLS

TEE

aI

OT TE

TL SE TSE

GE LY HERTS

LET

BI

ELE ERY AEE

4. Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the hose requiring replacement. Clamps are usually either of the spring tension type (which require pliers to squeeze the tabs and loosen) or of the screw tension type (which require screw or hex drivers to

loosen). Pull the clamps back on the hose away from the connection. 5, Twist, pull and slide the hose off the fitting, taking care not to damage the neck of the component from which the hose is being removed. TCCS1222

Fig. 96 Hoses are likely to deteriorate from the inside if the cooling system is not periodically flushed

sure the engine and cooling system are cold. Visually inspect for cracking, rotting or collapsed hoses, and replace as necessary. Run your hand along the length of the hose. If a weak or swollen spot is noted when squeezing the hose wall, the hose should be replaced. Worn hoses will feel brittle, the lower hose may be permanently narrowed at one point from suction, Or may appear frayed or cracked. New hoses will be springy and pliable yet firm, the rubber surface will be solid and smooth, and there will be no evidence of string reinforcements showing through.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Allow the engine coolant to cool below 100°F (38°C). 2. Remove the radiator pressure cap.

2k CAUTION Never remove the pressure cap while the engine is running, or personal injury from scalding hot coolant or steam may result. If possible, wait until the engine has cooled to remove the pressure cap. If this is not possible, wrap a thick cloth around the pressure cap and turn it slowly to the stop. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are sure all the pressure has been released, use the cloth to turn and remove the cap.

3. Position a clean container under the radiator and/or engine draincock or plug, then open the drain and allow the cooling system to drain to an appropriate level. For some upper hoses, only a little coolant must be drained. To remove hoses positioned lower on the engine, such as a lower radiator hose, the entire cooling system must be

emptied.

3

any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal

in sufficient quantity. Always drain

int into a sealable container. Coolant

@ reused unless it is contaminated or

RIO

PRL

EY

TS RY TST

1-27 EES

CV-Boots INSPECTION » See Figures 97 and 98

e>if the hose is stuck at the connection, do not try to insert a screwdriver or other sharp tool under the hose end in an effort to free it, as the connection and/or hose may become damaged. Heater connections especially may be easily damaged by such a procedure. If the hose is to be replaced, use a single-edged razor blade to make a slice along the portion of the hose which is stuck on the connection, perpendicular to the end of the hose. Do not cut deep so as to prevent damaging the connection. The hose can then be peeled from the connection and discarded.

6. Clean both hose mounting connections. Inspect the condition of the hose clamps and replace them, if necessary.

To install: 7. Dip the ends of the new hose into clean engine coolant to ease installation. 8. Slide the clamps over the replacement hose, then slide the hose ends over the connections into position. 9. Position and secure the clamps at least % in. (6.35mm) from the ends of the hose. Make sure they are located beyond the raised bead of the connector. 10. Close the radiator or engine drains and properly refill the cooling system with the clean drained engine coolant or a ®%o mixture of an approved anti-freeze and distilled water. For severely cold climates a ®%o mixture of an approved anti-freeze to water solution may be used, however should not be exceeded. If necessary bleed the cooling system as outlined in the cooling system instructions in this section.

The Constant Velocity (CV) boots should be checked for aging and damage each time the oil is changed and when performing maintenance service. These boots are found at the inner and outer ends of the front drive axles of the 4 wheel drive BMW 325iX model and at the inner and outer ends of the rear drive axles of the BMW models covered in this manual. The boots are cone shaped and pleated, similar to an accordion. Because the differential is mounted to the vehicle, the axle must be able to rotate and pivot at the same time, hence both ends of the drive axle are fitted with a CV-joint. The CVboot retains the grease used to lubricate the joint, and to prevent debris and contaminants from entering the joint. If the boots are punctured or split open, the centrifugal force of the spinning axle and CV-joint assembly will allow the grease to escape and the CV-joint will be permanently damaged. If the CV-boot is replaced before the CV-joint is damaged, the joint can be cleaned, repacked with grease, and reused. The cost of the CV-joint, is on average, about 5 to 10 times more expensive than just a boot. In some cases, the entire axle may have to be replaced. If a CV-boot failure occurs, replace the boot immediately. Signs of a C\V-boot failure include the presence of heavy grease thrown around the inside of the wheel(s) and on the brake caliper/drum. Thoroughly check the boots for miss-

e>Some cooling systems require bleeding when cooling system repairs/maintenance are performed. Refer to the cooling system instructions in this section for specific details.

TCCS1011

Fig. 97 CV-boots must be inspected periodically for damage

11. If available, install a pressure tester and check for leaks. If a pressure tester is not available,

run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached (allowing the system to naturally pressurize), then check for leaks.

2k CAUTION

CAUTION

When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink

TALE

If you are checking for leaks with the system at normal operating temperature, BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to touch any moving or hot engine parts. Once temperature has been reached, shut the engine OFF, and check for leaks around the hose ‘fittings and connections which were removed earlier.

Pe *

See

&

a

ae ia a

Tecsio10

Fig. 98 A torn boot should be replaced immediately

a

4 ?

1-28

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

ing clamps, tears and deterioration. The boot is far less expensive to replace than the joint it protects. Please refer to Section 7 for for repair procedures.

Spark Plugs » See Figure 99 A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell surrounding a ceramic insulator. A metal electrode extends downward through the center of the insulator and protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the plug and attached to the side of the outer metal shell is the side electrode. The side electrode bends in at a 90° angle so that its tip is just past and parallel to the tip of the center electrode. The distance between these two electrodes (measured in thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the spark plug gap. The spark plug does not produce a spark but instead provides a gap across which the current can arc. The ignition coil produces anywhere from 20,000 to 50,000 volts (depending on the type and application) which travels through the wires to the spark plugs. The current passes along the center electrode and jumps the gap to the side electrode(s), and in doing so, ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber.

SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE » See Figure 100 The spark plug heat range is the ability of the plug to dissipate heat. The deeper the insulator recedes into the body of the spark plug, the more heat the spark plug will retain and the hotter the plug will operate. If the amount the insulator recedes into the body of the spark plug is decreased, the less the plug will retain heat, and the cooler it will operate. A plug that absorbs little heat and remains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of oil and carbon since it is not hot enough to burn them off. This causes carbon to build up on the porcelain insulator and the center electrode, creating an alternate path for the high energy electrical spark which eventually leads to spark plug fouling and consequently to misfiring. A spark plug that absorbs too much heat will burn off deposits, however, due to the increased combustion temperature, the electrodes may also burn away more quickly and the excessive heat may

INSULATOR CRACKS OFTEN OCCUR HER

cause pre-ignition or internal engine damage. Preignition, also referred to as detonation, takes place when the combustion chamber gets hot enough to ignite the air/fuel mixture before the actual spark occurs. This early ignition may cause a “pinging”, knocking or rattling noise during low speed acceleration or when operated under a heavy load condition, such as climbing a steep hill. Note that detonation can occur without being heard. On engines equipped with Knock Sensors (KS), the Engine Control Module (ECM) will retard the ignition timing to prevent internal engine damage when detonation is detected. This will allow the engine to operate safely, however performance will be compromised. The general rule of thumb for choosing the correct heat range when selecting a spark plug is: consult the vehicle's owner's manual or a spark plug manufacturer's supply catalog for recommendations. If only one heat range of spark plug is listed, use the recommended plug, and note the recommended spark plug gap. If more than one heat range of spark plug is listed, depending on operating conditions, evaluate the type of driving the vehicle is most often subjected to. If the vehicle is used for extended high speed, long distance travel for long periods of time, in warm weather, use the colder plug of the recommend spark plugs. If, however, most of the driving is stop and go, or the vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates, use the hotter of the recommended spark plugs. Usually, original equipment plugs are a good compromise between the 2 styles of driving, and most vehicles rarely need to have their plugs differ from the factory-recommended heat range.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 101 thru 115 The spark plug replacement intervals for BMW models vary depending on model, the type of driving and mileage. The Service Indicator located in the instrument determines the maintenance intervals

maintenance procedures, it's a good idea to have maintenance performed based on time. Although a time interval is not directly stated, due to the fact that the 3 Series and Z3 BMWs use aluminum cylinder heads, it’s a good idea to replace the spark plugs every 2—4 years to avoid the chance that the protective coating on the spark plug may react with elements such as condensation and corrode in place. BMW recently approved the use of high performance platinum spark plugs in some models. These plugs can be identified by a platinum plated center electrode surrounded by four ground electrodes and features a maximum service life under normal operating conditions of 100,000 miles (160,000 km). Other claimed benefits of these spark plugs include: e Improved cold starting performance e Less susceptible to misfire during all operating conditions e Improved operation in stop and go traffic and . short distance driving e More consistent operation throughout the service life of the spark plug e Improved fuel combustion qualities, including improved idle quality and acceleration For specific details and availability of these spark plugs consult your local BMW dealer and refer to the service information bulletin in Group 12 numbered 12 01 99. Refer to the maintenance interval chart located in the vehicle owner's manual or at the end of this sec-

THE SHORTER THE PATH, THE FASTER THE HEAT IS DiSSIPATEO ANO THE COOLER

THE LONGER THE PATH, THE SLOWER THE HEAT !S DISSIPATED ANO THE HOTTER

j-—— PORCELAIN INSULATOR

SHORT TRIP

HEAVY LOADS. HIGH SPEEDS ADJUST FOR PROPER GAP SIDE ELECTRODE (BEND TO ADJUST GAP)

based on information collected by the Engine Control Module (ECM). Vehicles driven in severe conditions such as stop and go driving require more frequent maintenance than those driven primarily on highways, therefore because the maintenance interval is determined by the Service Indicator, the service intervals will vary. The spark plugs are replaced during the BMW Inspection II maintenance procedures, which by mileage averages between 30,000-—40,000 miles. If the vehicle is not driven frequently enough to attain the mileage recommended for the Inspection II

CENTER ELECTRODE: FILE FLAT WHEN ADJUSTING GAP; DO NOT BEND

SHORT

STOP-AND-GO LONG Insulator Tip

Insulator Tip

Slow Heat Transfer

Fast Heat Transter LOWER Heat Range COLO PLUG

HIGHER Heat Range

HOT PLUG

TCCS1045

Fig. 99 Cross-section of a spark plug

Fig. 100 Spark plug heat range

—

:

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

1-29

By

99°

Q

@O

i

S

93131P27

Fig. 101 Label each spark plug wire before disengaging and/or disconnecting them one at a time

84272001

Fig. 104 Removing the valve cover trim plugs—M50, $50, M52 and $52 engines

84272012

84272011

Fig. 102 Remove the spark plug cover fasteners—M42 and M44 engines

84272002

Fig. 105 Remove the trim cover fastener plugs—M50, S50, M52 and $52 engines

84272004

Fig. 107 Remove the oil filler cap, and immediately cover the opening, then remove the valve cover trim cover—M50, $50, M52 and $52 engines

84272007

Fig. 110 Detach the electrical connector from the coil pack—M50, $50, M52 and

$52 engines

Fig. 103 Removing the spark plug wires with the supplied tool—M42 and M44 engines

_ 84272005

Fig. 108 Once the trim cover is removed, the coil packs are clearly visible—M50, $50, M52 and $52 engines

84272008

84272003

Fig. 106 Removing the valve cover trim mounting nuts—M50, $50, M52 and $52 engines

>

~ wa

ae 84272006

Fig. 109 Release the electrical connector by moving locking bar—M50, $50, M52 and $52 engines

84272009

Fig. 112 Remove the coil pack by carefully

Fig. 111 Remove the coil pack fasteners— M50, $50, M52 and $52 engines

lifting upward—M50, S50, M52 and $52 engines

1-30

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

90961P44

Fig. 113 This spark plug cavity was cleaned with compressed air before the spark plug was removed. Note the absence

of any debris—M44 engine shown tion for additional items to be checked during the recommended maintenance services. During normal

operation, The spark plug’s gap increases as it wears. As the gap increases, the plug’s ability to conduct a spark decreases, therefore the necessary voltage required to conduct a spark increases. The voltage required to jump the spark plug’s gap at high engine speeds is about two to three times as much than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injected engines combined with the higher voltage output of their ignition systems, will often allow an engine to run significantly longer ona set of spark plugs. However, the engine's efficiency most likely will drop as the spark plug gap widens and may decrease both fuel economy and power). Before removing the spark plugs, label, or arrange the ignition coil leads or spark plug wires to ensure reinstalling them in the correct positions. On vehicles equipped with a distributor cap, mark the position of the spark plug wire for the number 1 cylinder. If for some reason the wires do become mismatched, the correct sequence can be easily determined by using the engine's firing order. The Original equipment spark plug wires are very high quality, however because the spark plug wires conduct a high energy electrical current, the insulation of the wires must be kept clean and not allowed to rub against any object that may damage the insula-

tion. When removing the spark plugs, remove them one at a time in a logical order, noting which cylinder from which they were removed. A careful inspection of the spark plugs is one method of evaluating the engine's operating conditions. Spark plugs showing signs of a carbon build up or deposits around the center electrode, may be indi-

cations of an impending electrical or mechanical failure. e>Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone sprayto the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.

To replace the spark plugs, proceed as follows: 1. Make sure the ignition is OFF. 2. On $14 and B20 engines: _ a. Label the spark plug wires and note their =~ location or replace one spark plug at a time, to ensure proper reassembly for each spark plug _ wire and spark plug.

aa 84272010

90961P41

Fig. 114 After the spark plug cavity is cleaned, you can remove the spark plug— M50 engine shown

Fig. 115 Inspect the condition of the spark plug once it is removed

b. Carefully remove the spark plug wire(s) from the spark plig(s). Pull only on the boot; do not pull on the wire itself otherwise the wire and connector will be damaged. 3. On M42 and M44 engines: a. Turn the spark plug cover slotted fasteners Ya (90°) turn clockwise and remove, then remove the cover by carefully lifting it upward. b. Label the spark plug wires and note their location or replace one spark plug at a time, to ensure proper reassembly for each spark plug wire and spark plug. c. Use the spark plug wire pulling tool located under the cover to remove the spark plug leads. 4. On M50, S50, M52 and S52 engines: a. Remove the valve cover trim fastener caps, the remove the fasteners securing the trim to the valve cover. b. Remove the oil fill cap and place a clean rag in the oil filler cavity to prevent debris from falling into the engine. On M50 engines it may be necessary to remove the fuel injector rail trim cover before removing the valve trim cover. The fuel injector rail cover is removed in the same method as the valve cover trim. c. Release the clips for the coil pack electrical connectors, disconnect and place the coil wiring harness aside. Make sure not to note the correct location for each coil’s electrical connection. d. Remove the fasteners securing the coil packs. e. Note the coil pack location for correct reinstallation, then carefully lift the coil packs upward and set aside to expose the spark plug hole cavities. 5. lf compressed air is available, blow out the recessed cavities in which the spark plugs are located. 6. Use a spark plug socket and extension, and place over the spark plug. Loosen the spark plug Ye a turn (45°) counterclockwise and if compressed air is available, blow out the recessed cavity in which the spark plug is located a second time. 7. Remove the spark plug. Inspect the plug and plug gap as outlined in this section, and replace as necessary. To install: 8. Check and adjust the spark plug gap as necessary. If the plug has dual electrodes, the gap should not be adjusted, and if out of specification

of a new plug to make sure it hasn't been damaged during packaging or shipping. Some spark plugs come pre-gapped and should not be gapped. Consult the spark plug's manufacturer for plug gapping information. 9. Apply a light coat of an anti-seize compound the threads of the spark plug, unless directed otherwise by the spark plug manufacturer. 10. Place the spark plug in the socket or use a piece of rubber hose placed over the spark plug porcelain to place the plug in the spark plug hole.

the ba:should eMar weedian ss gap

Always carefully thread the plug by hand to prevent the possibility of crossthreading and damaging the cylinder head’s threaded spark plug hole. 11. Thread the plug into the cylinder by hand until the spark plug seats. Do force the spark plug or use a wrench to get it started, to prevent crossthreading. The spark plug should thread in easily by hand. If it doesn’t, check the threads for damage or debris. 12. Using a torque wrench, tighten as follows: e Spark plugs with M12 x 1.25 threads:

15-19 ft. Ibs. (20-23 Nm) e Spark plugs with M14 x 1.25 threads: 22-24 ft. Ibs. (29-33 Nm) 13. On S14 and B20 engines: a. Replace the spark plug wire(s) to the correct location onto the spark plugs. 14. On M42 and M44 engines: a. Reinstall the spark plug wire and press downward carefully but firmly to seat it. Install the spark plug cap removal tool into its holder then snap the cover into place b. Reinstall the slotted cover fasteners and secure them by turning it % (90°) of a turn counterclockwise. 15. On M50, S50, M52 and S52 engines: a. Replace the coil packs on the spark plugs and tighten the nuts. If equipped, make sure to _ reinstall all ground straps for Nos. 1 and 6 coil

packs. — b. Attach the wiring harness eM and lock down the connector bar. C: bie ye C

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE INSPECTION & GAPPING > See Figures 116, 117, 118, 119 and 120 Check the plugs for deposits and wear. Look care-

fully at the center electrode protrudes through the center of the porcelain. If the center electrode is eroded or rounded, replace the spark plugs. If the plugs are not going to be replaced, clean the plugs thoroughly. Remember that any kind of deposit will decrease the efficiency of the plug. Plugs can be cleaned on a spark plug-cleaning machine, which are sometimes found in service stations. These machines do a good job of cleaning the spark plug, although they tend to remove the protective anti-corrosive coating on the spark plug threads. They also cause

the surface of porcelain around the center electrode to become slightly porous, allowing deposits to bond more easily to the porcelain. If a plug cleaner is used to clean the plugs, be sure the plug is thoroughly cleaned. The abrasive material used in the spark plug Cleaners is very hard, and if allowed to enter the engine's combustion chamber, could cause internal damage. An acceptable job of cleaning the spark plug can be accomplished by using a stiff wire brush. Once the plugs are cleaned, the spark plug gap must be checked and reset to specification.

one electrode, the plug gap must not be adjusted. Always check the spark plug gap before installation. Using a suitable spark plug gap gauge, check the spark plug gap. Make sure the L-shaped electrode connected to the body of the spark plug is parallel to the center electrode. If necessary, adjust the L-shaped electrode to attain the correct gap and

proper alignment. Make sure to use the specified size wire gauge, which must pass between the electrodes with a slight drag; the next larger size should not be able to pass, while the next smaller size should pass freely. When adjusting a spark plug gap, always set the gap to the minimum specification to allow for electrode wear.

If the original equipment spark plugs are platinum tip spark plugs, or have more than

A normally worn spark plug should have light tan or

/

gray

deposits

firing

on

A carbon fouled plug, identified by soft, sooty, black deposits, may indicate an improperly tuned vehicle. Check the air cleaner, ignition components and engine control system.

the

tip.

An oil fouled spark plug indicates an engine with worn poston rings and/or bad valve seals allowing excessive

This spark plug has been left in the engine too long, as evidenced by the extreme gap- Plugs with such an extreme gap can cause misfiring and stumbling accompanied by a noticeable lack of

-

oil to enter

the

chamber.

power.

A physically damaged spark plug may be evidence of

severe

detonation

in

that cylinder. Watch that cylinder carefully between services, as a continued detonation will not only damage the

plug,

but could also

damage

the

engine.

to determine engine running conditions , iy

et

é ©

1-31

A bridged or almost bridged spark plug, identified by a buildup between the electrodes caused by excessive carbon or oil build-up on the plug.

1-32

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

ee

Fig. 117 A variety of tools and gauges are needed for spark plug service

Fig. 118 Checking the spark plug gap with a feeler gauge

TCCS1141

Fig. 120 If the standard plug is in good condition, the electrode may be filed flat—WARNING: do not file platinum plugs

Always check the gap on new plugs as they are not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap because the reading may be inaccurate. A round-wire type gapping tool is the best tool for checking the plug gap. The correct gauge should pass through the electrode gap with a slight drag. If in doubt, try one size smaller and one larger. The smaller gauge should go through easily, while the larger one shouldn't go through at all. Wire gapping tools usually have a bending tool attached. Use this to adjust the side electrode until the proper clearance is obtained. Never attempt to bend the center electrode. Be careful not to bend the side electrode too far or too often as it may weaken and break off inside the engine, requiring removal of the cylinder

head to retrieve it.

:

The recommended plug gap for original equipment spark plugs for spark plugs where gapping is permitted is as follows: ¢ M3 models: 0.024—0.028 inches (0.6—-0.7mm) e £30 and E36 models (except M3 and multiple electrode spark plugs): 0.028-0.032 inches (0.7-0.8mm) e Multiple electrode spark plugs: 0.032-0.035 inches (0.9-1.0mm) >Multiple electrode spark plugs with three or four electrodes can be checked, but should not be adjusted.

TCCS2904

TCCs2903

TCCS1212

Fig. 119 Adjusting the spark plug gap

TCCS1008

Fig. 121 Checking plug wire resistance through the distributor cap with an ohm-

meter

Spark Plug Wires TESTING

TCCS1009

Fig. 122 Checking individual plug wire resistance with a digital ohmmeter

5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, making sure to correctly route the plug wire and make sure it snaps into place when installed onto the coil and spark plug.

> See Figures 121 and 122

M42 Engines

At every tune-up/inspection, visually check the spark plug cables for burns cuts, or breaks in the insulation. Check the boots and the nipples on the distributor cap and/or coil. Replace any damaged wiring.

> See Figure 123

Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or 60 months, the resistance of the wires should be checked with an ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will cause misfiring, and may make the engine difficult to start in damp weather. The spark plug wire resistance should be 4500-5500 ohms.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Remove the fasteners holding the two halves of the guide channel together and separate the housing from the valve cover. 3. Turn the slotted fasteners on the valve cover

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION $14/M20 Engines 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Note and label the installed location of the wires. 3. Unplug the spark plug wire(s) from the dis~ tributor cap. 4. Release the plug wire(s) from the spark plug(s) and disconnect the ignition lead(s) from the ignition coil.

TeX (CES

Fig. 123 Spark plug wire routing—M42 engine shown

i

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE trim ¥ turn (90°) clockwise and remove the trim cover. 4. Note and label the wires and their original location. 5. Use the supplied tool located under the cover to release the plug wire(s) from the spark plug(s) and disconnect the ignition lead(s) from the ignition coil. 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, making sure to correctly route the plug wire and make sure it snaps into place when installed onto the coil and spark plug.

tion coil pack by rotating the locking collar counterclockwise. 3. Remove the ignition coil mounting nuts and

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4. Turn the slotted fasteners on the valve cover trim ¥% turn (90°) clockwise and remove the trim

$14/M20 Engines

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Remove the electrical harness from the igni-

onto the coil and spark plug.

M44 Engines

» See Figures 124 thru 132

Distributor Cap and Rotor

place the coil pack aside near the valve cover.

cover. 5. Note and label the wires and their original location. 6. Use the supplied too! located under the cover to release the plug wire(s) from the spark plug(s) and disconnect the ignition lead(s) from the ignition coil. To install: 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, making sure to correctly route the plug wire and make sure it snaps into place when installed

1. Make sure the ignition is OFF. 2. To prevent physical injury and to avoid damage to the radiator fins, slide a thin piece of cardboard or equivalent down between the radiator

and the fan. 3. Note and label the wires and their original location. 4, Remove the ignition lead cover from the distributor cap. If not already marked, tag the ignition leads for later installation.

i i?

90961P21

Fig. 124 The trim cover on the 4-cylinder engine is removed by turning the mount-

ing fasteners clockwise 90°

‘90961P35-

90961P20

Fig. 125 With the fasteners released, simply lift the trim cover off

1-33

Fig. 126 The spark plug removal tool is located under the trim cover

90961P39 Niaddihedhise ca

Fig. 127 Slide the removal tool onto the plug wire cap. On stubborn connectors, rotate the cap side-to-side while pulling upward

90963P76

Fig. 130 The plug wire bracket, connectors and insulating tray are lifted off and placed aside

90961P23

Fig. 128 Remove the ignition coil harness connector by rotating it counterclockwise—M44 engines

90961P42

Fig. 131 Always label the plug wires to ensure correct installation

ee r

a

90963P78

Fig. 129 The plug wire bracket is attached to the valve cover with two captured bolts

90961P43

Fig. 132 When detaching the plug wire, pull on the boot only, not on the wire itself

1-34

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

5. Pull off the ignition leads from the distributor cap. 6. Remove the screws from the distributor cap and remove the cap. Check the condition of the distributor cap seal and replace if necessary. 7. Unscrew the 3mm hex head bolts securing the rotor, then remove the rotor. To install: 8. Place the ignition rotor on the shaft and tighten the hex head bolts to 22-25 inch Ibs.

(2.6-3.0 Nm). 9. Install the distributor cap and seal. Tighten the mounting screws. 10. Replace the ignition leads on the proper terminals and clip the cover into place. Remove the cardboard from between the radiator and fan.

INSPECTION

ADJUSTMENT

$14/M20 Engines Check the cap and rotor for signs of burning, carbon tracks or excessive corrosion on the terminals. Do not try to clean the terminals. The cap and rotor should be replaced at the same time.

Ignition Timing The ignition timing on the 1989-98 3 Series and

~ 1996-98 Z3 BMW vehicles is not adjustable.

Checking the ignition timing would be difficult, as the timing is automatically adjusted by the DME control unit as engine conditions change.

Valve Lash Most of the BMW models covered in this manual have hydraulically adjusted valves, except for the E30 series M3 S14 and 325 M20 engines. Valve _ lash on these engines should be checked and adjusted as necessary during the BMW Inspection | maintenance, which is approximately every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) as determined by the Service Interval lights. It is important to check and adjust the lash to make up for wear in the valve train. Excessive valve clearance could cause noisy valve operation and reduced power. Insufficient clearance in the valve train could cause the valves to be overheated, as the valves dissipate heat from the head of the valve as it is closed and rests on the valve seat. An overheated valve can distort, crack, break or cause the valve to burn and reduce compression. The M20 BMW engine features a unique adjuster design that makes it easy to hold the required dimension while tightening the locknut; thus, valve adjustment is relatively easy. The S14 engines require the use of BMW tool No. 11 3 170, or its equivalent, to depress the valve tappet, compressed air to displace the valve shim, and a selection of adjustment shims. The shims are available in increments of 0.002 inches (0.05mm) and range in thickness from 0.118-0.167 inches (3.00—4.25mm). The camshaft is driven at an exact two to one fatio of the crankshaft. For every two revolutions the crankshaft completes, the camshaft rotates once. The camshaft has lobes that are used to open the valves in the proper sequence to allow a charge of “fuel and air to enter the combustion chamber via 7 bd the intake valve and to dispense the burnt gasses =a

called the toe, and a smooth rounded end referred to as the heel. The portion of the camshaft lobe between the heel and the toe is called the ramp. The opening ramp presses on the rocker or tappet shim to open the valve, and the closing ramp guides the valve closed. A camshaft is considered to be in the “at rock” or overlap position when the camshaft's exhaust lobe is guiding the exhaust valve closed and the intake lobe is beginning to open the intake valve for a given cylinder. The valves for a cylinder are adjusted when the heel of the intake and exhaust camshaft lobes are both equally facing their rocker or valve adjustment shim for that cylinder. The valves on BMW models should be checked and adjusted when the engine is cold.

‘

~via the exhaust valve. The lobe has a pointed end

M20 Engine

» See Figures 133 and 134 1. Make sure the engine is cold. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the valve cover, making sure to note the location of the cap nuts and bolts for proper reassembly. If necessary, remove the air cleaner and/or main air intake hose, then label and disconnect the attached hoses/vacuum lines as needed. e>To ease rotation of the engine, it may be

helpful to remove the spark plugs as outlined in this section. 4. It will be necessary to properly position the camshaft by turning the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) for each cylinder. To do this, the engine is rotated in a clockwise direction using a suitable socket, ratchet and if necessary, an extension to turn the crankshaft via the crankshaft pulley bolt. 5. The engine must be rotated to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for each cylinder to properly position the camshaft for the valves to be adjusted. A cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke when the piston for that cylinder is at its topmost position in the cylinder bore and: e The ignition rotor is pointing toward the terminal of the distributor cap for that cylinder’s ignition wire

e The heel of both the intake and exhaust camshaft lobes are facing their rockers for the particular cylinder e The camshaft of an opposing cylinder is in the overlap position as outlined in the valve lash adjusting sequence chart The valve adjustment clearance specifications are as follows: ¢ Cold: 0.010 inches (0.25mm) e Warm: 0.012 inches (0.30mm) 6. Check the clearance between the intake valve rocker eccentric adjuster and the intake valve using correct sized feeler gauge. The feeler gauge should pass the rocker eccentric adjuster with a slight resistance. If in doubt about the clearance, recheck the clearance using a feeler gauge that is 0.001 inch (0.02mm) larger and smaller. The smaller feeler gauge should slide through easily and the larger feeler gauge should not be able to fit between the rocker and the valve. 7. If the clearance is not correct, insert a bent wire tool (made with a piece of coat hanger) or use a Suitable hex key inserted into the small hole in the rocker's adjusting eccentric, located in the outer end of the rocker arm. Using a 10mm wrench to loosen the adjustment locknut, slightly loosen the nut and rotate the adjustment eccentric with the wire as the gauge is slid between the adjustment eccentric and the valve. When the gauge just fits between the valve and adjustment eccentric and can be slid back and forth with just a slight resistance, hold the eccentric with the adjusting wire or hex key and then tighten the locknut. 8. Recheck the clearance to make sure it has not changed while tightening the lock nut. 9. Then check and adjust as necessary the valve clearance for the exhaust valve-to-exhaust rocker. 10. Follow the engine’s firing order, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the next cylinder in the engine's firing order is at TDC. The firing order for the M20 engine is: 1-5-3-6-2-4 . 11. Repeat the adjustment procedures for each cylinder's intake and exhaust valves. 12. Reinstall the valve cover using a new gasket. Tighten the cover cap nuts or bolts evenly,

4 CYLINDER ENGINES ee TO ADJUST CYLINDER:

ae

aa

6 CYLINDER ENGINES —_———ooOo

TO ADJUST

“CYLINDER AT

CYLINDER:

POSITION

eazr2021 Fig. 133 Checking the valve lash between the valve and the rocker arm adjusting

eccentric—M20 engine shown — —

a

_Fig. 134Valve lash i

sp*

a

-

i”,

—s

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE starting at the center and working outward. a very little at a time, alternately criss-crossing in order to bring the cam cover down onto the gasket evenly in all areas. Be careful not to overtighten the cover cap nuts/bolts. Torque to 72-84 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). 13. Reconnect all disconnected hoses and, if necessary, replace the air cleaner. $14 Engines

» See Figures 135, 136 and 137 The S14 engine requires the use of BMW tool No. 11 3 170 or its equivalent to compress the valve tappet, compressed air to displace the shim, and a selection of adjustment shims. A micrometer may be needed to determine shim thickness if the markings on the adjustment shim have worn off. 1. Make sure the engine is cold. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the valve cover. >To ease rotation of the engine, it may be helpful to remove the spark plugs as outlined in this section.

4, Rotate the engine's crankshaft in a clockwise direction using a suitable socket, ratchet and if necessary, an extension to turn the crankshaft via the front pulley bolt to properly position the camshaft to Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for each cylinder. A cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke when the piston for that cylinder is at its topmost position in the cylinder bore and: ¢ The ignition rotor is pointing toward the terminal of the distributor cap for that cylinder’s ignition wire The heel of both the intake and exhaust camshaft lobes are facing their tappet adjustment shims for the particular cylinder The camshaft of an opposing cylinder is in the overlap position as outlined in the valve lash adjusting sequence chart 5. Turn the engine until the toe of the No. 1 cylinder exhaust and intake valve camshaft lobes are both pointing straight up. The valve adjustment clearance specifications are as follows: e Cold: 0.010-0.014 inches (0.26-0.35mm) ¢ Warm: 0.012-0.016 inches (0.31-0.40mm) 6. Measure the valve clearance for the cylinder when the cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on

the firing stroke. The camshaft lobe’s heel should be facing the adjustment shim as shown in the illustration. Make sure the toe (maximum lift area of the camshaft lobe) is opposite to the adjustment shim before each measurement. 7. lf the measured valve clearance is not within the valve clearance specification range, the valve adjustment shim must be replaced. If the clearance is less than the minimum clearance specification, a smaller (thinner) shim must be used. If the measured clearance exceeds the maximum clearance specification a larger (thicker) shim must be installed. 8. To replace a valve shim, proceed as follows: a. Move the tappets so the slotted edges are facing outward. e>When using BMW Tool No. 11 3 170 or its

equivalent, side E of the tool is used to compress the intake valve tappet, and side A of the tool is used to compress the exhaust valve tap-

pet. b. Use BMW Tool No. 11 3 170 or its equivalent to compress the valve tappet. c. Using compressed air aimed toward the slot in the tappet, displace the shim. >A micrometer may be needed to determine shim thickness if the markings on the shim have been worn away.

9. Determine the correct shim size needed by comparing the measured valve clearance to the valve clearance specification. a. If the measured clearance is LESS than

1-35

the smallest dimension of the valve clearance specification range, a smaller (thinner) shim is needed. To determine the correct shim size: e Subtract the actual measured clearance from the maximum allowable clearance. This will determine the amount of additional clearance required, hence a smaller (thinner) adjustment shim will be required. Subtract the amount of the additional clearance required from the size of the

existing shim to determine the size of the shim to be installed. b. If the measured clearance is GREATER than the largest dimension of the valve clearance specification range, a larger (thicker) shim is needed. To determine the correct shim size: e Subtract the maximum allowable clearance from the actual measured clearance. This will determine the amount the clearance must be decreased, hence a larger (thicker) adjustment shim will be required. Add the amount the clearance must be decreased to the size of the existing adjustment shim to determine the size of the adjustment shim to be installed. e>Because adjustment shims are only avail-

able in increments of 0.002 in. (0.05mm) it may be necessary to substitute the next size larger (thicker) or smaller (thinner) adjustment shim to obtain a clearance that is within the range of the valve clearance specifications provided.

c. Apply a thin layer of oil to the adjustment shim to be installed and slide it between the camshaft lobe and the edges of the tappet. d. Make sure the adjustment shim is fully seated in the tappet. e. Remove the tool and recheck the clearance. 10. Rotate the engine clockwise. Repeat the previous valve checking/adjustment procedures for the intake and exhaust valves using the S14 engine firing order which is: 1-3-4-2 . 11. When all the clearances are within the specified range, reinstall the cam cover, reinstall the battery ground cable, start the engine, and check for leaks and normal operation.

90961607

84272023

| Fig. 135 Turn the valve buckets so the

] notches are facing outward before check-

|

8

ing the adjustment—S14 engine neal

Fig. 136 Shown from top to bottom are the valve adjustment shim, tappet, valve keeper, retainer, valve seal, inner/outer

spring, spring seat and valve for $14 engines

Fig. 137 Check the valve adjustment between the heels of the camshaft lobes and the adjustment shim, when the camshafts are in this position—S14engines

1-36

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

IDLE SPEED AND MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS The idle speed and fuel mixture are controlled by the engine's Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM relies on a variety of sensors to monitor the engine's operating parameters, and adjusts the fuel mixture and idle speed as necessary. If a problem

or malfunction is detected by the ECM, a fault is stored in the module's fault memory. Depending on the severity or frequency of the fault, a warning light could be activated. Beginning with model year 1996, all passenger

vehicles sold in the United States must conform to the On Board Diagnostics version lI (OBD Il) standards. These standards included generic terminolOgy and acronyms for the components used by the ECM to monitor and adjust the engine's fuel and

ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS Engine Displaceme: Liters (cc)

Year

1989 1990 1991

1994 1995

AT

2.5 (2494)[ M2op25 | @® | @®

@

Fuel Pum (psi

43

43

Idle Speed (rpm) @

MT

}

AT

Valve Clearance Intake Exhaust

geo | 880 |0.012 | 0.012 760

760_|

0.010 | 0.010

760

760 | 0.012 | 0.012 800 | 0.010 | 0.010

| 2.3(2302)| S14B23 | 0028 | @ | @ | 43 | 880 | 880 0.012 2.5(2494)| Meopes| © | @ | @ | 43 | 760 | 760 | 0010 | 0.010 {1.8(1796)| M42Bi8| =O | @ | @ | 43 | 850 | 850 HYD 2.3 (2302)| $14B23 | 0.026 2.5 (2494)| M20B25 | @

@ @

@

eet Pettitte 2.5 (2494)| M50B25 | _@ ®

@ | @ | 50]. 700. |. 700 | hyYOR @ @ aso | 850 | HYD | HYD

® @ | 1.8(1796)| MazBis| © | @ | ne MMe 2.5(2494)| meop2s| © | @ | |1.8(1796)| M42Bi8| =O | @ | 2.5 (2494) ee [2.5 (2494)| Ms0B25| @ | @ | [1.8 (1796)| MA2Bi8| =O | @ |

TO)

1996

® ®

@

@® BOTS

1997 |

1998

MT

ee

1992 1993

Engine - ID/VIN

Ignition Timing (deg.)

Spark Plug Gap (in.)®

®

@ @

@ @

@ | 50 @ | 43 ee © @ | 43

e) @

43 50

700 850 goo | | 700 | | 850 | ee 7o0_| | 850 | 700

HYD HYD 0.010 HYD HYD HYD 700 HYD 850 | HYD | HYD HYD | 800 |0.010 | 700 | HYD | 850 | HYD |

HYD HYD | 700 | HYD |- HYD

@ = 51 | 600 | 600 | HYD | HYD | @ | @ | 41-47 | 850-950 |850-950 | HYD | HYD

@ Ce @

@ | 48-54 a a @

600-700

48-54 | 650-750 | 650-750 | HYD

HYD HYD HYD

@ | 48-54 HYD | Oo | @ | @ | 4854 | 650-750 |650-750 | HYD | HYD | 1.9(1895)| M44B1I9| © | @ | @ | 41-47 | 850-950 HYD 2.5(2494) |M5282 | @ | @ | @ | 4854 | 700-800 |650-750 | HYD | HYD 2.5(2494)|

M52B25|

@ -| @ | @ | 4854 | 700-800 | 650-750}

HYD

HYD

[2.8(2793) ms2B28| @ | @ | @ | 4854 | 700-800 |650-750 | HYD | “HYD 2.8 (2793) |M52TUB28,. «= SCT COS | SC

_}3.2(3152){ s52B32|

[48-54 ‘| 750-850 | 650-750 | HYD

@ | @ | @ | 4854

650-750 | _HYD_|

NOTE: The Vehicle Emission Control Information label reflects changes during production and must be used if they differ from this chart. B - Before Top Dead Center HYD - Hydraulic

@ Three mass and four-mass electrodes cannot be adjusted Dual mass electrodes: 0.035-0.039 inches All models except M models: 0.028-0.031 inches

M models: 0.024-0.028 inches

= 5

~ @Controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM) and cannot be adjusted

@atide, pressure measured at injector rail

Ysa

(re

+?

HYD

HYD

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE emissions management system. The OBD II standards also mandate that a 16-pin diagnostic port be provided for connection of a Data Scan Tool (DST). The DST is used to interrogate the ECM's fault memory and clear fault codes if present. Should a condition occur that effects idle speed or fuel mixture, check the ECM sensor wiring and electrical connections. Also check for possible sources of an engine vacuum leak possibly caused by a deteriorated hose, gasket of seal. Having access to a suitable DST allows for quick and easy reading of any stored faults. On OBD II compliant vehicles, should the Check Engine light flash or operate continuously, the ECM should be interrogated immediately to determine the source of the stored fault. The Check Engine light operates when performance is compromised and there exists the possibility of damaging the catalytic converter. The advantage of an OBD I! compliant vehicle is that with a suitable DST scan tool, all of the ECM sensors can be monitored dynamically during both the warm up cycle and actual driving conditions without having to probe the wires or electrical connections for each individual sensor. Because the idle speed and idle mixture cannot be adjusted, if present, avoid adjusting any screws on the throttle body.

Air Conditioning System SYSTEM SERVICE & REPAIR e>it is recommended that the A/C system be serviced by an EPA Section 609 certified automotive technician utilizing a refrigerant recovery/recycling machine.

The do-it-yourselfer should not service his/her own vehicle's A/C system for many reasons, including legal concerns, personal injury, environmental damage and cost. The following are some of the reasons why you may decide not to service your own vehicle's A/C system. BMW offers conversion kits to retrofit older models to the R-134a refrigerant. Additional information can be obtained from the www.unofficialbmw.com web site.

According to the U.S. Clean Air Act, it is a federal crime to service or repair (involving the refrigerant) a Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) system for money without being EPA certified. It is also illegal to vent R-12 and R-134a refrigerants into the atmosphere. Selling or distributing A/C system refrigerant (in a container which contains less than 20 pounds of refrigerant) to any person who is not EPA 609 certified is also not allowed by law. State and/or local laws may be more strict than the federal regulations, so be sure to check with your state and/or local authorities for further information. For further federal information on the legality of servicing your A/C system, call the EPA

_ Stratospheric Ozone Hotline. ->Federal law dictates that a fine of up to $25,000 may be levied on people convicted of nting refrigerant into the atmosphere. Addi-

nally, the EPA may pay up to $10,000 for

Pi

827 a

a

information or services leading to a criminal conviction of the violation of these laws.

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE

When servicing an A/C system you run the risk of handling or coming in contact with refrigerant, which may result in skin or eye irritation or frostbite. Although low in toxicity (due to chemical stability), inhalation of concentrated refrigerant fumes is dangerous and can result in death; cases of fatal cardiac arrhythmia have been reported in people accidentally subjected to high levels of refrigerant. Some early symptoms include loss of concentration and drowsiness.

> See Figures 138 and 139

->Generally, the limit for exposure is lower for R-134a than it is for R-12. Exceptional care must be practiced when handling R-134a.

Also, refrigerants can decompose at high temperatures (near gas heaters or open flame), which may result in hydrofluoric acid, hydrochloric acid and phosgene (a fatal nerve gas). R-12 refrigerant can damage the environment

because it is a Chlorofluorocarbon (CFC), which has been proven to add to ozone layer depletion, leading to increasing levels of UV radiation. UV radiation has been.linked with an increase in skin cancer, suppression of the human immune system, an increase in cataracts, damage to crops, damage to aquatic organisms, an increase in ground-level ozone, and increased global warming. R-134a refrigerant is a greenhouse gas which, if allowed to vent into the atmosphere, will contribute to global warming (the Greenhouse Effect). It is usually more economically feasible to have a certified MVAC automotive technician perform A/C system service on your vehicle. Some possible reasons for this are as follows: e While it is illegal to service an A/C system without the proper equipment, the home mechanic would have to purchase an expensive refrigerant recovery/recycling machine to service his/her own vehicle. e Since only a certified person may purchase refrigerant—according to the Clean Air Act, there are specific restrictions on selling or distributing A/C system refrigerant—it is legally impossible (unless certified) for the home mechanic to service his/her own vehicle. Procuring refrigerant in an illegal fashion exposes one to the risk of paying a $25,000 fine to the EPA. R-12 Refrigerant Conversion

If your vehicle still uses R-12 refrigerant, one way to save A/C system costs down the road is to investigate the possibility of having your system converted to R-134a. The older R-12 systems can be easily converted to R-134a refrigerant by a certified automotive technician by installing a few new components and changing the system oil. The cost of R-12 is steadily rising and will continue to increase, because it is no longer imported or manufactured in the United States. Therefore, it is often possible to have an R-12 system converted to R-134a and recharged for less than it would cost to just charge the system with R-12. If you are interested in having your system converted, contact local BMW dealer or automotive ser- _ vice stations for more details and information about their available conversion kits.

1-37

Although the A/C system should not be serviced by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can be practiced and A/C system inspections can be performed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle's A/C system. For preventive maintenance, perform the following: e The easiest and most important preventive maintenance for your A/C system is to be sure that it is used on a regular basis. Running the system for five minutes each month (no matter what the season) will help ensure that the seals and all internal components remain lubricated. e>Some newer vehicles automatically operate the A/C system compressor whenever the windshield defroster is activated. When running, the compressor lubricates the A/C system components; therefore, the A/C system would not need to be operated each month.

e In order to prevent heater core freeze-up during A/C operation, it is necessary to maintain proper antifreeze protection. Use a hand-held coolant tester (hydrometer) to periodically check the condition of the antifreeze in your engine's cooling system. e>Antifreeze should not be used longer than the manufacturer specifies.

e For efficient operation of an air conditioned vehicle's cooling system, the radiator cap should

TCCS1233

Fig. 138 A coolant tester can be used to determine the freezing and boiling levels of the coolant in your vehicle

TCCS1079

Fig. 139 To ensure efficient cooling system operation, inspect the radiator cap gasket and seal

1-38

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

have a holding pressure which meets manufacturer's specifications. A cap which fails to hold these pressures should be replaced. e Any obstruction of or damage to the condenser configuration will restrict air flow which is essential to its efficient operation. It is, therefore, a good rule to keep this unit clean and in proper physical shape. Bug screens which are mounted in front of the condenser (unless they are original equipment) are regarded as obstructions.

e The condensation drain tube expels any water which accumulates on the bottom of the evaporator housing into the engine compartment. If this tube is obstructed, the air conditioning performance can be restricted and condensation buildup can spill over onto the vehicle's floor.

SYSTEM INSPECTION > See Figure 140 Although the A/C system should not be serviced by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can be practiced and A/C system inspections can be performed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle's A/C system. For A/C system inspection, perform the following: The easiest and often most important check for the air conditioning system consists of a visual inspection of the system components. Visually inspect the air conditioning system for refrigerant leaks, damaged compressor clutch, abnormal compressor drive belt tension and/or condition, plugged

evaporator drain tube, blocked condenser fins, disconnected or broken wires, blown fuses, corroded connections and poor insulation. A refrigerant leak will usually appear as an oily residue at the leakage point in the system. The oily residue soon picks up dust or dirt particles from the surrounding air and appears greasy. Through time, this will build up and appear to be a heavy dirt impregnated grease. For a thorough visual and operational inspection, check the following: e Check the surface of the radiator and condenser for dirt, leaves or other material which might block air flow. e Check for kinks in hoses and lines. Check the system for leaks. e Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned. When the air conditioning is operating, make sure the drive belt is free of noise or slippage. e Make sure the blower motor operates at all appropriate positions, then check for distribution of the air from all outlets with the blower on HIGH or MAX. Keep in mind that under conditions of high

humidity, air discharged from the A/C vents may not feel as cold as expected, even if the system is working properly. This is because vaporized moisture in humid air retains heat more effectively than dry air, thereby making humid air more difficult to cool.

e Make sure the air passage selection lever is operating correctly. Start the engine and warm it to normal operating temperature, then make sure the temperature selection lever is operating correctly.

Windshield Wipers ELEMENT (REFILL) CARE & REPLACEMENT > See Figures 141 thru 150 For maximum effectiveness and longest element life, the windshield and wiper blades should be kept clean. Dirt, tree sap, road tar and so on will cause streaking, smearing and blade deterioration if left on the glass. It is advisable to wash the windshield carefully with a commercial glass cleaner at least once a month. Wipe off the rubber blades with the wet rag afterwards. Do not attempt to move wipers across the windshield by hand; damage to the motor and drive mechanism will result. To inspect and/or replace the wiper blade ele-

ments, place the wiper switch in the LOW speed position and the ignition switch in the ACC position. When the wiper blades are approximately vertical on the windshield, turn the ignition switch to OFF. Examine the wiper blade elements. If they are found to be cracked, broken or torn, they should be replaced immediately. Replacement intervals will vary with usage, although ozone deterioration usually limits element life to about one year. Ifthe wiper pattern is smeared or streaked, or if the blade chatters across the glass, the elements should be - replaced. It is easiest and most sensible to replace the elements in pairs. If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket blades, there are several different types of refills and

rae a

me

|&

| >= yy

ah

nt iI I!

N ADAPTERS eee

l

Tt)gamU

TCCS1223

TCCS1224

TCCS1081

Fig. 140 Periodically remove any debris Fig. 141 Bosch® wiper blade and fit kit

from the condenser and radiator fins

TOCS1226

TCCS1225

Fig. 143 Pylon® wiper blade and adapter

Fig. 144 Trico® wiper blade and fit kit

Fig. 142 Lexor® wiper blade and fit kit

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

ToCsi228

Fig. 146 To remove and install a Lexor® wiper blade refill, slip out the old insert and slide in a new one

TCCS1229

Fig. 147 On Pylon® inserts, the clip at the end has to be removed prior to sliding the

insert, bend the tab back

your vehicle might have any kind. Aftermarket blades and arms rarely use the exact same type blade or refill as the original equipment. Here are some typical aftermarket blades; not all may be available for your vehicle: The Anco( type uses a release button that is pushed down to allow the refill to slide out of the yoke jaws. The new refill slides back into the frame and locks in place. Some Trico( refills are removed by locating where the metal backing strip or the refill is wider. Insert a small screwdriver blade between the frame and metal backing strip. Press down to release the refill from the retaining tab. Other types of Trico( refills have two metal tabs which are unlocked by squeezing them together. The rubber filler can then be withdrawn from the frame jaws. A new refill is installed by inserting the refill into the front frame jaws and sliding it rearward to engage the remaining frame jaws. There are usually four jaws; be certain when installing that the refill is engaged in all of them. At the end of its travel, the tabs will lock into place on the front jaws of the wiper blade frame. Another type of refill is made from polycarbonate. The refill has a simple locking device at one end which flexes downward out of the groove into which the jaws of the holder fit, allowing easy release. By sliding the new refill through all the jaws and pushing through the slight resistance

when it reaches the end of its travel, the refill will lock into position. ; To replace the Tridon( refill, it is necessary to the wiper blade. This refill has a plastic

rip eos Dore.shout1 in. (25mm) from

TCCS1230

Fig. 148 On Trico® wiper blades, the tab at the end of the blade must be turned up

insert off

TCCs1231. Fig. 149. . . then the insert can be removed. After installing the replacement

1-39

TC0S1232

Fig. 150 The Tripledge® wiper blade insert is removed and installed using a securing clip

the end. Hold the blade (frame) on a hard surface so that the frame is tightly bowed. Grip the tip of the backing strip and pull up while twisting counterclockwise. The backing strip will snap out of the retaining tab. Do this for the remaining tabs until the refill is free of the blade. The length of these refills is molded into the end and they should be replaced with identical types. Regardless of the type of refill used, be sure to follow the part manufacturer's instructions closely. Make sure that all of the frame jaws are engaged as the refill is pushed into place and locked. If the metal blade holder and frame are allowed to touch the glass during wiper operation, the glass will be scratched.

Tires and Wheels » See Figure 151 Common sense and good driving habits will afford maximum tire life. Fast starts, sudden stops and hard cornering are hard on tires and will shorten their useful life span. Make sure that you don't overload the vehicle or run with incorrect pressure in the tires. Both of these practices will increase tread wear. >For optimum tire life, keep the tires properly inflated, rotate them often and have the wheel alignment checked periodically.

Inspect your tires frequently. Be especially careful to watch for bubbles in the tread or sidewall, deep cuts or underinflation. Replace any tires with bubbles in the sidewall. If cuts are so deep that they

Fig. 151 Always tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern with a torque wrench

penetrate to the cords, discard the tire. Any cut in the sidewall of a radial tire renders it unsafe. Also look for uneven tread wear patterns that may indicate the front end is out of alignment or that the tires are out of balance.

TIRE ROTATION BMW does not recommend rotating the tires. Due to the design of the suspension, the front tires tend to wear on the outside edge and the rear tires wear on the inside edge. When the tires are rotated front to back, the ground contact patch is reversed, resulting in less contact patch area. This can adversely affect the handling, road holding and braking performance of the vehicle. If tire rotation is desired, the rotation should be ~ performed in short intervals every 3000 miles (5000 km) at maximum. Tires must only be rotated on the same side of the vehicle. After rotation, the tire pressure must be checked and reset as necessary. If the spare is to be included in the rotation, it must be used on only one side of the vehicle. Spare tires older than 6 years old should only be used in case of emergency. If in doubt as to how old the spare tire may be, read the DOT code on the side of the tire. The age of the tire can be determined from this code. The first two numbers following the letters DOT indicate the week the tire was produced. The last number determines the year. Thus ifa tire has the code DOT 438, the tire was produced the 43rd week of 1998.

1-40

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

TIRE DESIGN

with the body or suspension while the vehicle is stopping, turning sharply or heavily loaded.

» See Figures 152, 153 and 154

Snow Tires

For maximum satisfaction, tires should be replaced in sets of four. Mixing of different tread patterns must be avoided. If tires are to be replaced, the manufacturer insists that only BMW approved tires should be used due to the high speeds which the vehicle could obtain. The use of specific brands, specifications and dimensions is necessary. Your first choice when replacing tires should be to use the same type of tire that the manufacturer recom-

mends. e>Mismatched tires could activate the Antilock Braking System (ABS) indicator light because their rotational wheel speed could be dissimilar due to slight variations of tire size between

different manufacturer’s and/or tread patterns.

Consult the vehicle manufacturer when replacing tires as to the specific brands, specifications and dimensions intended for use on your vehicle. When selecting tires, pay attention to the original size as marked on the tire. Most tires are described using an industry size code sometimes referred to as P-Metric. This allows the exact identification of the tire specifications, regardless of the manufacturer. If selecting a different tire size or brand, remember to check the installed tire for any sign of interference

Example:

205/60

Nominal width in mm

15. 91H i

Aspect ratio in %

|/

Type of radial-code

|

Good radial tires can produce a big advantage in slippery weather, but in snow, a street radial tire does not have sufficient tread to provide traction and control. The small grooves of a street tire quickly pack with snow and the tire behaves like a billiard ball on a marble floor. The more open, chunky tread of a snow tire will self-clean as the tire turns, providing much better grip on snowy surfaces. To satisfy municipalities requiring snow tires during weather emergencies, most snow tires carry either an M +S designation after the tire size stamped on the sidewall, or the designation “allseason.” In general, no change in tire size is necessary when buying snow tires. Most manufacturers strongly recommend the use of 4 snow tires on their vehicles for reasons of stability. If snow tires are fitted only to the drive wheels, the opposite end of the vehicle may become very unstable when braking or turning on slippery surfaces. This instability can lead to unpleasant endings if the driver can’t counteract the slide in time. Note that snow tires, whether 2 or 4, will affect vehicle handling in all non-snow situations. The stiffer, heavier snow tires will noticeably change the turning and braking characteristics of the vehicle. Once the snow tires are installed, you must re-learn the behavior of the vehicle and drive accordingly. Consider buying extra wheels on which to mount the snow tires. Once done, the “snow

Rim diameter in inches

Load rating Speed rating (before R on ZR tires) 90961608

Fig. 152 The code on the sidewall of a tire includes size, construction type, load rating and speed rating

If they are mounted on wheels, store the tires at proper inflation pressure. All tires should be kept in a cool, dry place. If they are stored in the garage or basement, do not let them stand on a concrete floor; set them on strips of wood, a mat or a large stack of newspaper. Keeping them away from direct moisture is of paramount importance. Tires should not be stored upright, but in a flat position.

INFLATION & INSPECTION » See Figures 155 thru 162 The importance of proper tire inflation cannot be overemphasized. A tire employs air as part of its structure. It is designed around the supporting strength of the air at a specified pressure. For this reason, improper inflation drastically reduces the tire’s ability to perform as intended. A tire will lose some air in day-to-day use; having to add a few pounds of air periodically is not necessarily a sign of a leaking tire. Two items should be a permanent fixture in every glove compartment: an accurate tire pressure gauge Codes on steel/light-alloy wheels:

Summer tires:

Hump width (inches) — 112 118 130 149 167 149

mph mph mph mph mph mph

(180 (190 (210 (240 (270 (240

km/h) km/h) km/h) km/h) km/h) km/h)

Q M+S = T M+S = -H M+S =

Denotes drop-center rim

Rim diameter (inches)

Hump of 2 rim shoulders

up to 100 mph (160 km/h) up to 118 mph (190 km/h) | up to 130 mph (210 km/h) 90961610

Fig. 153 The speed rating of a tire is critical when selecting an appropriate tire

90961609 Fig. 154 The wheel rims also include size

codes. If replacing a wheel, make sure its size is approved for use on your vehicle, and choose an approved tire that fits the rim properly

* DRIVE WHEEL HEAVY ACCELERATION ~ * OVERINFLATION

Fig. 155 Tires should be checked frequently for any sign of puncture or damage

7Jx15H2

Code letter for flange type

Winter tires:

(not on ZR tires)

TIRE STORAGE

The speed rating indicates the approved maximum speed for the tire up to upto up to up to up to R = over

letter for radial

wheels” can be installed and removed as needed. This eliminates the potential damage to tires or wheels from seasonal removal and installation. Even if your vehicle has styled wheels, see if inexpensive steel wheels are available. Although the look of the vehicle will change, the expensive wheels will be protected from salt, curb hits and pothole damage.

:

- Fig. 156 Tires with deep cuts, or cuts

TCCS1095

which bulge, should be replaced immediately

|

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE WEAR |conomion | ATRAPID SHOULDERS

RAPID WEAR AT CENTER

CRACKED

WEAR ON ONE SIDE

TREADS

FEATHERED EDGE

BALD SPOTS

1-41 SCALLOPED

WEAR

hx a

- iam i

AAT OVERINFLATIO

LAA, AMAA the O47

PROPERLY INFLATED

IMPROPERLY INFLATED RADIAL

CAUSE

TIRE TCCS1263

Fig. 158 Radial tires have a characteristic sidewall bulge; don’t try to measure pressure by looking at the tire. Use a quality air pressure gauge

\

CORRECTION

UNDER-INFLATION uN or ‘4 }} | excessive speeo*

| I

; ~

>

cd

s

WORN OR OUTOF-ALIGNMENT SUSPENSION,

y

ADJUST PRESSURE TO SPECIFICATIONS WHEN TIRES ARE COOL ROTATE TIRES

“HAVE TIRE INSPECTED FOR FURTHER

USE.

TCCS1267

Fig. 159 Common tire wear patterns and causes

TCCS1264 TCCS1266 TCCS1265

Fig. 160 Tread wear indicators will appear when the tire is worn

and a tread depth gauge. Check the tire pressure (including the spare) regularly with a pocket type gauge. Too often, the gauge on the end of the air hose at your corner garage is not accurate because it suffers too much abuse. Always check tire pressure when the tires are cold, as pressure increases with temperature. If you must move the vehicle to check the tire inflation, do not drive more than a mile before checking. A cold tire is generally one that has not been driven for more than three hours. The recommended tire pressure information is provided in the owner's manual and on the driver's door pillar (B Pillar) which is visible when the door is opened. The tire pressure varies from model to model and is also dependent on the vehicle's load. Note that these pressures are to be set when the tires are cold. If the pressures are checked when the tire is warm, do not compensate for the heat build up. If the tire is low on air, and already warm, set the tire pressure to the recommended pressure temporarily and recheck the pressure when the tire cools. Then, if necessary set the tire pressure as necessary. A tire that is run low on air will cause the tire to run hotter and wear quicker.

See Figure 163 BMW recommends using engine oils that meet or exceed the American Petroleum Institute (API)

Classifications of SG or the European CCMC classification of G4. These oils can be either mineral or synthetic-based engine oils and may have more than one rating. e>BMW recommends that special oils should be used in the M3 models. Consult your local BMW dealer for the most recent information pertaining to the availability and use of these

oils. The BMW Service Information bulletin in Group 11 memo number 11 08 94 released in December 1995 states that special oils approved by BMW include Mobil 1° SAE 5W-30 and Valvoline® High Performance SAE 5W-30.

Under no circumstances should the maintenance intervals be extended because of the

use of special oils. Ce|

- BMW states that the advantage to using special

~~ oils is that these oils meet the requirements for use inal ambient temperatures, thus having to change

the engine oil based solely on seasonal weather changes is eliminated. Beginning with the E36 chassis/platform, some models come from the factory with synthetic-based engine oils. If in doubt as to what type of oil should be used, contact your local BMW dealer. BMW supplies their dealer network with current Service Information bulletins to reflect updated information pertaining to procedural or technical changes in their vehicles. During break-in periods of new, exchange, or newly rebuilt engines, it is recommended to use a single or multi-weight mineral-based engine oil. Changing the engine oil to a synthetic based engine oil at the first regularly scheduled oil change service is acceptable, however, when using synthetic oils, the oil change interval should never be extended beyond the regularly scheduled and/or suggested oil change intervals. The SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) grade number indicates the viscosity of the engine

oil and thus its ability to lubricate at a given temperature. The lower the SAE grade number, the lighter the oil: the lower the viscosity, the more viscous the oil is in cold weather. The importance of using the correct viscosity (weight) oil and frequent oil changes cannot be over emphasized. Studies have shown that 80% of all engine wear occurs during a cold engine start up. Because an oil's ability to flow during cold a start up is directly related to its viscosity, the use of the proper weight (viscosity) oil is essential. Synthetic oils offer excellent cold weather flow capabilities and overall offer improved lubricating abilities, however just like petroleum oils, the correct viscosity should be used for the operating conditions. Oil viscosities should be chosen from those oils recommended for the lowest anticipated temperature during the oil change interval. Multi-viscosity oils (10W-30, 20W-50, etc.) offer the important advantage of being adaptable to temperature extremes. They allow easy starting at low temperatures, yet they give good protection at high speeds and high engine temperatures and engine loads. This is a decided advantage in changeable climates or in long distance touring. Note that a multi-grade oil's base viscosity (weight) is the first of the two numbers, and the second number is the viscosity (weight) attributes which the oil assumes based on the additive package in the oil when the oil becomes warm. Hence a 10W-30 oil is a 10 weight base oil with an additive package that allows the oil to assume the characteristics of a 30 weight oil as its operation temperature increases. For this reason, when selecting an oil for extreme severe use, (Off road or competition) a straight weight or special oil may be a better choice, as a regular grade multi-grade oil is more susceptible to breaking down than a straight weight or special oil. The trade off with a straight weight oil is that it is less versatile because it does not offer as wide a temperature operating range as a multigrade oil, and for general street use, the multi-grade is a more logical choice. The engine oil not only serves to lubricate the engine, it also serves /to cool ; the engine as ;well. That is why most engines built for competition use

bs

See Figures 164, 165, 166 and 167

_

The oil level must be checked on a regular basis.

Running the engine low on oil may result in catastrophic engine failure at worst and lessened ser-

vice life at best. The most accurate oil level readings are done with the car level and with the oil cold, though it may be more convenient to check the oil at fill-ups with the engine warm. The level will read slightly higher with a warm engine once the oil has drained back into the crankcase, but the change will be minimal. Every time you stop for fuel, check the engine oil as follows: 1. Make sure the car is parked on level ground. 2. Checking the oil immediately after stopping

84271037

Fig. 164 Remove the dipstick to check the oil

Maximum

Minimum ooops!

90961P82

Fig. 165 The oil level should be between the 2 marks on the dipstick

Fig. 166 Inspect the dipstick O-rings periodically and coat them with a light film of

oil

84271039

Fig. 167 Adding oil through a funnel helps to prevent spills

1-44

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

The two types are easy to identify. If there is a cast aluminum housing with a bolt through the top center, towards the front of the engine, or if the housing has a cover which is threaded into the lower housing, it is the full flow replaceable element type. The spin-on cartridge type is easy to recognize and mounts on the side of the engine block. Use only a BMW approved filter or its commercial market equivalent. Use only a high grade filter as it is there to protect a high grade engine. Some low grade filters do not fit correctly and may cause the filter housing not to seal properly. Always use new O-rings when changing the oil filter and replace the oil drain plug crush washer.

\ Spin-On Cartridge > See Figures 168, 169, 170 and 171 Prolonged and repeated skin contact with used engine oil, with no effort to remove the oil, may be harmful. Always follows these simple precautions when handling used motor oil: 1. Avoid prolonged skin contact with used motor oil. 2. Remove oil from skin by washing thoroughly with soap and water or waterless hand cleaner. Do not use gasoline, thinners or other solvents. 3. Avoid prolonged skin contact with oil-soaked clothing. 1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. 2. Jack up the front of the car and support it on safety stands. 3. Slide a drain pan of at least 150% of the capacity of the oil sump under the oil pan. 4. Loosen the drain plug with a proper sized wrench. It normally will be 17mm or 19mm. Turn

the plug out by hand. By keeping an inward pressure on the plug as you unscrew it, oil won't escape past the threads and you can remove it without being burned by hot oil. 5. Allow the oil to drain completely and then install the drain plug with a new crush washer. Don't overtighten the plug, or you'll be buying a new pan or a trick replacement plug for stripped threads. Torque the 17mm plug to 22-26 ft. Ibs. (30-36 Nm). Torque the 19mm plug to 43—46 ft. lbs. (69-64 Nm) 6. Using a strap wrench, remove the oil filter. Keep in mind that it's holding about 1 quart of dirty, hot oil. 7. Empty the old filter into the drain pan and dispose of the filter. 8. Using a clean rag, wipe off the filter adapter on the engine block. Be sure that the rag doesn't leave any lint which could clog an oil passage. : 9. Coat the rubber gasket on the filter with fresh oil. Fill the oil filter with fresh oil as much as possible. Spin it onto the engine by hand; when the gasket touches the adapter surface, give it another Ye—% turn or as printed on the filter housing. No more, or you'll squash the gasket and it will leak. 10. Refill the engine with the correct amount of fresh oil. See the Capacities chart. 11. Check the oil level on the dipstick. It is normal for the level to be a bit above the full mark. Start the engine and allow it to run at 2500 rpm for a few seconds until the oil lamp extinguishes. Allow the engine to run for a few minutes.

Do not run the engine under load until it has built up oil pressure, indicated when the oil light goes out. 12. Shut off the engine, allow the oil to drain for a minute, and check the oil level. Check around the filter and drain plug for any leaks, and correct as

necessary. Full Flow Element 84271040

Fig. 168 Keep an inward pressure as you remove the drain plug to keep oil from leaking past the threads

> See Figures 172 thru 177 Prolonged and repeated skin contact with used engine oil, with no effort to remove the oil, may be

harmful. Always follows these simple precautions

84271041

Fig. 169 Use a strap wrench to ease the removal of the old oil filter

Fig. 170 Coat the gasket of the new filter with clean engine oil

when handling used motor oil: 1. Avoid prolonged

skin contact with used motor oil. 2. Remove oil from skin by washing thoroughly with soap and water or waterless hand cleaner. Do not use gasoline, thinners or other solvents. 3. Avoid prolonged skin contact with oil-soaked clothing. 1. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. 2. Jack up the front of the car and support it on safety stands. 3. Loosen the oil filter housing bolt with a wrench. The oil in the housing will drain into the oil pan. 4. Remove the cover from the housing. Remove the old O-rings from the bolt and the filter cover. Check that the filter cover O-ring did not stick to the filter housing. 5. Remove the filter element from the housing. Allow the excess oil to drain from the element into the drain pan. Dispose of the element properly. 6. If necessary, raise and safely support the vehicle. 7. Slide a drain pan of at least one and a half times the capacity of the oil sump under the oil pan. 8. Loosen the drain plug with a proper sized wrench. It normally will be 17mm or 19mm. Turn the plug out by hand. By keeping an inward pressure on the plug as you unscrew it, oil won't escape past the threads and you can remove it without being burned by hot oil. 9. Allow the oil to drain completely and then install the drain plug with a new crush washer. Don't overtighten the plug, or you'll by buying a new pan or a trick replacement plug for stripped threads. Torque the 17mm plug to 22-26 ft. Ibs. (30-36 Nm). Torque the 19mm plug to 43—-46 ft. lbs. (59-64 Nm) 10. If raised, carefully lower the vehicle. 11. Place the new element in the filter housing, correct side up. It should be marked on the filter element. 12. Coat the O-rings with fresh oil and install the housing cover. Torque the bolt to 20-24 ft. Ibs. (27-33 Nm). 13. Refill the engine with the correct amount of fresh oil. See the Capacities chart. 14. Check the oil level on the dipstick. It is normal for the level to be a bit above the full mark. Start the engine and allow it to run at 2,500 rpm for a few seconds until the oil lamp extinguishes. Allow the engine to run for a few minutes.

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

84271044

Fig. 172 Remove the bolt to loosen the oil filter housing cover

84271045

Fig. 173 Removing the bolt will allow the oil to drain back into the oil pan

1-45

84271046

Fig. 174 Be careful not to lose the O-ring

90961P64X 84271047

Fig. 175 Allow the filter to drain before removing to prevent spills

Do not run the engine under load until it has built up oil pressure, indicated when the oil light goes out. 15. Shut off the engine, allow the oil to drain for a minute, and check the oil level. Check around the filter and drain plug for any leaks, and correct as necessary.

Filling Drivetrain Fluids BMW transmissions and differentials require the use of specific fluids. The fluid recommendations not only vary from year to year and model to model, they may also vary from component to component. Changing the engine oil is a relatively straightforward task, however due to their physical location, the transmissions and differentials will require the use of some means of transferring a lubricant from a container into the fill hole. For example, on later model E36 automatic transmissions, the transmission fluid fill hole is a recessed cavity accessed from the bottom of the sump. Being properly prepared is far better than having your car on jack stands, the fluid drained into a

90961P80

Fig. 176 Replace the canister cover O-rings and install with a light film of oil

drain pan, and several containers of fresh lubricant at your finger tips, and no way of getting the fluid where it needs to be. A hand pump or siphon gun will work well for transferring a fluid from a container into an inaccessible fill hole to properly top off or refill the fluid level. Whether filling or topping off, always place a suitable drain pan under the fill hole to catch any fluid spills that may occur while working on the vehicle. The following hand pumps are available from area retailers: e BMW hand pump: Tool No. 90 88 6 002 080 e Sta-Lube® fluid pump: Sta-Lube® Too! No. SL 4344, NAPA® Tool No. 4344 The Sta-Lube® fluid pump fits the gallon containers of Sta-Lube® lubricants and also fits the NAPA® 1 gallon windshield washer fluid containers. Attach the fluid pump to the fluid container, or if necessary pour the fluid into a clean container that will fit the fluid pump, and simply pump the fluid into the fill hole with the pump. Another solution is to use a siphon gun, also available through an automotive parts vendor. The fluid is drawn from the fluid container into the siphon gun, and then transferred from the siphon gun into the component.

Fig. 177 On models with a plastic filter housing, a proper fitting oil filter tool should be used for removal and installation—M44 engine shown

Manual Transmission

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS » See Figure 178 e>Due to running production changes, the lubricant in your transmission may be a different type than what is listed here or in your

owner’s manual. The recommended fluid for the transmission installed in your vehicle is typically specified on a tag on the transmission body. BMW recommends the use of non-hypoid GL4 SAE 80 in all models prior to 1993. Beginning with model year 1993 the 3 Series, and Z3 models use Dexron® |I| Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). The E36 M3 models use a lifetime transmission oil (MTF-LT-1). In addition, many of the exchange transmissions supplied by BMW also contain this lubricant. Beginning with the E36 chassis/platform, some models come from the factory with synthetic-based oils. If in doubt as to what type oil should be used, contact your local BMW dealer. BMW supplies their dealer network with Service Information bulletins to

1-46

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

90967P56

Fig. 178 Because the fluid recommendations vary, in later years BMW provides fluid information labels affixed to the side of the transmission. Always check with your local dealer for updated information

reflect updated information pertaining to procedural or technical changes in their vehicles. Synthetics can offer easier shifting in cold weather and greater protection from wear, but can sometimes cause noisier operation and they may not be compatible with all transmissions and their synchronizers. If you wish to use a synthetic manual transmission lubricant, check with your BMW dealer for suggestions and details. BMW states that the lifetime transmission oil MTF-LT-1 that is supplied as original equipment on vehicles with manual transmissions, does not require periodic replacement. The fluid level should be checked periodically following the maintenance recommendations, and topped off as necessary. The fluid is replaced only if repairs are performed to the transmission.

LEVEL CHECK > See Figures 179 and 180 1. With the car parked on a level surface or raised and supported in a level position, remove the filler plug from the side of the transmission housing. 2. Ifthe lubricant begins to trickle out of the hole, there is enough and you need not go any further. Otherwise, carefully insert your finger (watch out for sharp threads) and check to see if the lubricant is up to the edge of the hole. e>Due to running production changes, the lubricant in your transmission may be a different type than what is listed here or in your owner’s manual. The recommended fluid for the transmission installed in your vehicle will be specified on a tag on the transmission body. Otherwise write the transmission identification information down and consult the local BMW dealer to ensure sing the recommended fluid.

3. If the fluid level needs to be topped off, add lubricant through the access hole until the level is at the edge of the hole. Refer to the filling drivetrain fluids heading in this section and top off the fluid level as necessary with the recommended fluid. On manual transmissions, because the transmisVn) sion fill access hole is on the side of the transmiswi? — sion, a long section of suitable hose can be routed ies " __through the right side of the engine compartment

and along the side of the transmission. To do this: © Lite ¥ Allow the engine.to cool.

90961P76

Fig. 179 The fill/fluid level plug is on the side of the transmission

Fig. 180 Remove fill plug (2) before drain plug (1) when checking the manual transmission lubricant level

5. Place a Suitable drain pan under the fill hole

area. 6. Use a fuel/oil compatible 4 foot (120 cm) length of ¥2 inch (12mm) hose and a suitable funnel. 7. Route the hose through the right side of the engine compartment and along the side of the transmission. 8. Place the end of the hose into the fill hole opening. 9. Working from the engine compartment, install a suitable funnel into the hose, and pour the fluid slowly until the transmission fluid level is correct,

+ WARNING When filling a manual transmission using a hose routed through the engine compartment, the engine should be cool. Do not allow the fluid transfer hose to contact any hot engine parts, including the exhaust manifold. >The recommended fluid for the transmission should be specified on a tag on the transmission body.

10. Replace the filler plug, run the engine and check for leaks.

DRAIN AND REFILL

90961P75

Fig. 181 Use a properly fitting boxed end wrench to avoid damaging the drain plug during removal

e S6S 560G transmission: 38 ft. Ibs. (62 Nm) 5. Using the recommended fluid, fill and top off the fluid level as necessary. Refer to the filling drivetrain fluids heading in this section and add lubricant through the access hole on the side of the transmission until the level is at the edge of the hole, as outlined earlier.

Fill the transmission with the recommended lubricant. Consult with your local BMW dealership for specific lubricant information.

> See Figure 181

e>Due to running production changes, the

e>Refer to the Filling Drivetrain Fluids heading in this section before beginning any work.

1. The lubricant must be hot before it is drained. Drive the car until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. 2. Remove the filler plug to provide a vent. Be sure to remove this first. If the fluid is drained and trouble is encountered removing the fill plug, the car will be out of service until a method to remove the stuck fill plug is found. 3. Place a suitable drain pan underneath the transmission drain and then remove the 17mm hex head drain plug. 4. Allow the lubricant to drain completely. Clean the magnetic drain plug of any excessive metal particles, reinstall and torque to specification. — Manual transmission drain and fill plug torque: e All except S6S 560G gle 36.8 ft.

Ibs. ieNm) sbaaiey

.

lubricant in your transmission may be a different type than what is listed here or in your owner’s manual. The recommended fluid for

the transmission installed in your vehicle will be specified on a tag on the transmission body. 6. When the lubricant level is up to the edge of the filler hole, replace the filler plug. Drive the car for a few minutes, stop, and check for any leaks.

Automatic Transmission » See Figure 182

The automatic transmission is a co p nent}

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

1-47

Series E30 models equipped with a transmission dipstick. On E30 models without a dipstick, the recommended fluid should be indicated on a label attached to the side of the transmission. If the label is missing, write down all of the transmission identification codes and consult a local BMW dealer. The transmission fluid level should be checked at inspections as indicated by the Service Indicator. For specific information on recommended lubricants, and checking procedures, consult your local BMW dealer.

Wa

oe

I, Ss

TAN =

E36 Models 1. Drive plate 2. Converter lockup clutch 3. Torque converter P. Impeller 6. 7. 8. 9.

Clutch C Clutch C Clutch D Planetary gearset

10. Planetary gearset, fourth gear

11. Clutch E 12. Clutch F

13. 14, 15. 16. 17.

Output One-way One-way One-way One-way

clutch clutch clutch clutch

84277010

Fig. 182 The automatic transmission is comprised of many precision parts. The ZF 4HP-22 transmission and its basic internal components

sion for potential fluid seepage at gaskets and seals and repair in a timely manner. Occasionally check the area under which the vehicle is parked to see if there are any fluid spills. Running a transmission low on fluid could have severe mechanical consequences, which timely repairs and maintenance will help to avoid. The cost of maintaining a transmission is less than “4o of the cost of replacing it. If the transmission is in need of repair, check with a local dealer about the cost of an exchange transmission. These transmissions usually offer a reasonable warranty, and the failed transmission is given partial credit toward the replacement transmission as a rebuildable core. The other advantage of installing an exchange transmission is the time savings. The transmission unit is shipped complete and ready to install. Otherwise the failed transmission must be disassembled, diagnosed, and the failed parts ordered, and when they arrive, the transmission is then assembled. Due to the need for special equipment, its complexity, and the replacement cost of an automatic transmission, it may be wise to have a knowledgeable BMW service facility perform service and routine checks to the transmission on models not equipped with a dipstick. Servicing an automatic transmission requires the removal of the sump pan(s), which, without the proper equipment are susceptible to messy fluid spills. ->Please refer to Section 7 for a more detailed description of how the automatic transmission functions.

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS The automatic transmissions fluid used in the production of BMW vehicles will vary from model to model, year to year, and may change during a pro_ duction run. Iftheautomatic transmission is equipped with a dipstick tube, the recommended transmission DEXRON? Ill. On transmissions not equipped

a

dipstick, thetransmission fluid type should be fluid si information label located on the en

transmission, and/or by using the transmission identification code and verifying the recommended lubricant with the help of a local BMW dealer. When checking the transmission fluid level, the fluid temperature is critical. On models without a dipstick, the transmission fluid level can only be checked when the fluid temperature is between

86-122"F (30-50°C). On transmissions equipped with a dipstick, the difference between the MAX (Maximum) and MIN (Minimum) marks on the dipstick is only 0.6 pints (10 ounces/0.3 liter), or less than ¥% of a quart! The symptoms of an over-filled transmission include: e Formation of heavy foam ¢ Oil loss through transmission vents e Increased engine temperatures, especially at high speed The symptoms of an under-filled transmission include: e Erratic operation e Transmission valve chatter e Poor engagement qualities e Non-definitive shift points e Formation of foam or aeration of fluid e Inability of the engine to transmit power through the transmission Recommended transmission fluids are as follows: e GM THMR1 (A4S 310R): ATF-Dexron® III ¢ GM THMRI1 (A4S 270R): ATF-Dexron® III e ZF 4HP22: ATF-Dexron® Ill e ZF 5HP 18 (A5S 310Z): Esso LT Lifetime Fill Approved oils include the following: Models requiring ATF Dexron® Ill ¢ Unocal Dexron® III Multi-Purpose ATF e Castrol Dexron® Ill Mercon e Texaco ATF Mercon-Dexron?® III Models requiring Esso LT Lifetime Fill: . © Esso ATF LT 71141, BMW Part No. 83 22 9

~ 407 807, 21.1 quarts (20 liters) E30 Models

BMW recommends the use of DEXRON® Ill Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) for the 3

The automatic transmissions used by BMW in their E36 vehicles varies by model, model year and production date. The code letters and transmission type numbers should be located on an identification plate affixed to the side of the transmission and _ written in your book and/or owner's manual for future reference. The numbers that are cast into the transmission cases should not be used for identification purposes.

+

WARNING

It is extremely important to correctly identify the transmission type if the fluid level is to be checked, topped off, changed or the transmission serviced. The fluid used in the transmissions also varies over the years and from model to model. The transmissions typically have labels indicating the type of fluid to be used. The models using Dexron® Ill are typically labeled “ATF-Oil!” while those containing a special lifetime oil are typically labeled “Life-Time Oil” and require the use of special lubricants.

Before servicing an automatic transmission installed in a BMW, properly identify which transmission is installed in the vehicle. Consult your local BMW dealer to make sure of using the recommended lubricants and follow the correct service procedures. Failure to comply with the specific service procedures and fluid recommendations could result in severe mechanical damage. If the fluid requirements of the transmission DO NOT call for lifetime oil, use an approved Dexron® IIL ATF.

FLUID LEVEL CHECK | Models With A Dipstick

> See Figures 178, 183 and 184 >On models with a dipstick, the transmission fluid level must be checked when the fluid

temperature is 175°F (80°C).

The ATF dipstick is located toward the back of the engine compartment. The dipstick has two or three notched lines. On models with three notched lines, the upper two are used as the MIN (minimum fluid level) and the MAX (maximum fluid level) notches.

1-48

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

e>On later BMW vehicles, the dipstick tube has been eliminated. The transmission fluid is checked and added through an access hole which is located either on the side or bottom of the transmission sump pan, or through the transmission housing casting.

When checking the transmission fluid level, the fluid temperature is critical. On transmissions equipped with a dipstick, the transmission fluid can only be checked when the fluid temperature is 175°F (80°C). The difference between the MAX (Maximum) and MIN (Minimum) marks on the dipstick is 10 ounces (0.3 liter), or less than ¥% of a quart. 1. Park the car on a level surface with the engine idling. Shift the transmission into Neutral and set the parking brake. 2. Use a BMW scan tool or remove the transmission dipstick and use a temperature probe long enough to be capable of reading the fluid temperature via the transmission dipstick tube. Allow the fluid temperature to reach 175°F (80°C). 3. If measuring the temperature through the dipstick tube, temporarily remove the probe and check the fluid level. 4. When checking the fluid level: a. Remove the dipstick. b. Wipe it clean and then reinsert it firmly. Some models have locking dipsticks that require the top of the dipstick to be tilted to unlock. Be sure that it has been pushed all the way in. c. Remove the dipstick again and check the fluid level while holding it horizontally. With the engine running, and the fluid at the specified temperature, the fluid level must be between the MIN (upper MIN on models with three notches) and MAX marks on the dipstick. 5. Ifthe level is too high: a. Use a siphon gun to reduce the fluid level, verify that the fluid temperature is within the acceptable range and recheck the level. 6. If the level is too low: a. Add a small amount of DEXRON® III automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube. This is easily done with the aid of a funnel.

b. Verify the fluid temperature is within the acceptable range and recheck the fluid level. e>The difference between the MAX (Maximum) and MIN (Minimum) marks on the dipstick is 10 ounces (0.3 liter), or less than Yard of a quart!

7. Repeat the above procedures as necessary until the fluid level is within specification.

The transmission fluid temperature is critical when checking the fluid level. The transmission fluid can only be checked

when the fluid temperature is 175°F (80°C). An improper fluid level could severely damage the transmission. >The fluid on the.dipstick should always be a bright red color, If it is discolored (brown or black) or smells burnt, serious transmission troubles, probably due to overheating, should be suspected. The transmission should be inspected by a qualified technician to locate the cause of the burnt fluid.

Models Without A Dipstick

» See Figures 178, 185, 186, 187 and 188 e>On transmissions not equipped with a dipstick tube, refer to the Filling Drivetrain Fluids heading in this section before beginning any work.

As of February 1991, use of an automatic transmission fluid dipstick has been discontinued. The transmission fluid level is checked and added through an opening on the side of the sump on early THM R1 (A4S 310R) transmissions. The transmission drain and fill plugs are on the bottom of the sump on later THM R1 (A4A 310R and A4S 270R) transmissions and early ZF A5S 310Z transmissions. The transmission drain plug is on the bottom of the sump and the fill plug is in the transmission

“MAX” Level at 80° C (175° F)

“MIN” Level at 80° C (175° F)

Minimum level at 40° C (105° F) 90961618

84271049

5

Fig. 183 Tilt the top of the automatic

_ | transmission dipstick'to unlock it

Fig. 184 On models with a dipstick, the fluid level should be checked at 175F

casting on the right rear portion of the sump-totransmission gasket mating surface on the later ZF A5S 310Z transmission.

The transmission fluid temperature is critical when checking the fluid level. The

transmission fluid can only be checked when the fluid temperature is between 86-122°F (30-50°C). An improper fluid level could severely damage the transmission.

>: CAUTION ‘ ° a Wa‘°. a

The fluid level checking procedure requires the engine to be running while the fluid level is checked from underneath the vehicle. If the proper equipment is not available and the safety conditions cannot be satisfied, this procedure should be per-

formed by a BMW dealer or a certified repair facility.

It is absolutely necessary that the recommended fluid be used when topping off the transmission fluid. Failure to comply with the fluid requirements and level checking - procedure may severely damage the transmission.

1. Safely raise and support the vehicle enough that the lower portion of the transmission sump can be accessed and if necessary a fluid pump or siphon gun can be used to correct the fluid level. The vehicle must be level. 2. Using the BMW DIS, MODIC, or a compatible scan tool, start the engine and monitor the transmission fluid temperature. The transmission fluid temperature must be below 86°F (30°C) before checking. elf the transmission fill plug is on the side of the transmission sump, a suitable thermome-

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

90961615

Fig. 186 The transmission drain and fill plugs are on the bottom of the sump on

later GM THM R1 (A4A 310R and A4S 270R) transmissions ter can be used in place of the BMW DIS, MODIC, or a scan tool.

3. With the engine running, press on the brake pedal, set the parking brake and move the gear selector slowly through each gear position, then place the gear selector in Park. 4. lf equipped, operate the air conditioning on low speed. 5. Place a suitable drain pan under the transmission fill plug. 6. Remove the transmission fill plug while. watching the transmission fluid temperature. When the transmission fluid temperature reaches 86°F. (30°C), a small stream of transmission fluid should begin to flow out of the fill hole. If the transmission fluid temperature is between 86-122°F (30-50°C) when the fluid runs out of the fluid fill hole, the fluid level is correct and the fill plug along with a new sealing washer should be installed and properly tightened. Fill plug torque specifications: A4S 270 R, A4S 310 transmissions: e M14: 18 ft. Ibs. (25 Nm) e M18 x 1.5: 24 ft. Ibs. (33 Nm) A5S 310 Z transmissions: e Fill plug, M30 thread, large inverted hex: 74 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm) elf the transmission fluid temperature

exceeds 122°F (50°C) while topping off or checking the transmission fluid, the engine should be turned off and the fluid temperature allowed to cool. After sufficient cooling, the

fluid level checking procedure can again be carried out.

7. Iffluid does not flow out of the fill hole, using the recommended fluid and a fluid pump or siphon gun add fluid until the fluid begins to run out of the fill hole. If the transmission fluid temperature is between 86-122°F (30-50°C) when the fluid runs out of the fluid fill hole, the fluid level is correct and the fill plug along with a new sealing washer should be installed and properly tightened. It is preferred that the fluid level be topped off at 86°F (30°C) as this allows the transmission to hold more oil than if topped off at 122°F (50°C). 8. Ifthe transmission fluid temperature exceeds

-122°F (50°C) while topping off or checking the fluid

evel, theengine should be turned off and the trans1

fluid

temperature

allowed to cool. After sufre

90961G17

Fig. 187 The transmission fill plug is a large inverted hex on the sump on the

early ZF ASS 310Z transmissions

1-49

Fig. 188 The transmission drain plug is on the bottom of the sump and the fill plug is on the right rear near the sump-to-transmission mating surface on the later ZF A5S 310Z transmission

ficient cooling, the fluid level checking procedure can again be carried out. 9. Carefully lower the vehicle and test drive and check for fluid leaks and check for normal operation.

DRAIN AND REFILL > See Figure 189 e>On transmissions not equipped with a dipstick tube, refer to the Filling Drivetrain Fluids heading in this section before beginning any work.

*:¢ CAUTION Do not drain the fluid while it is hot as it splatters easily and severe burns could result. 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle in a

level plane. 2. Place a suitable drain pan under the transmission sump. Remove the dipstick on vehicles so equipped. On models with locking dipsticks, tilt the top of the dipstick to unlock. 3. On models not equipped with a drain plug, drain the fluid using the oil filler tube by loosening and removing the oil filler tube from the sump pan. Be ready to catch fluid as it drains. 4. On models equipped with a drain plug, remove the drain plug and catch the draining fluid. 5. \f removed, install the oil filler tube, and torque to 71 ft. Ibs. (98 Nm). 6. On models with a drain plug, replace the gasket or crush washer on the drain plug and torque as follows: E30 models: e M10 plugs: 11-12 ft. Ibs. (15-17 Nm) ¢ M18 plugs: 29-33 ft. Ibs. (40-46 Nm) E36 models: A4S 270 R, A4S 310 transmission, drain and fill Plugs: ¢ M14 Oil filler: 18 ft. Ibs. (25 Nm) e M18 x 1.5 Oil drain: 24 ft. Ibs. (33 Nm) AD5S 310 Z transmissions: ¢ M10 Drain plug: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) ¢ Fill plug, M30 thread, large inverted hex: _74 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm)

84271050

Fig. 189 Automatic transmission drain plug. Always use a new sealing washer when reinstalling

7. Initially fill the transmission with the proper amount of the recommended fluid, then refer to the fluid level checking procedures in this section and top off as necessary. >On models with two sumps, if both sumps are drained, add an additional 2.1 quarts (2.0 liters)

e>Initial fluid fill amounts are approximated and could vary. Always check and top off the system as outlined in this section before driv-

ing. Initial transmission fluid fill amounts: E30 models: e 3.2 quarts (3.0 liters) E36 models: e A4S 270R/A4S310R transmissions: 3.2 quarts (3.0 liters) e A5S 310 Z transmissions:>3.5 quarts (3.3 liters) 8. Check and adjust the fluid level as outlined in this section. 9. Test drive and check for fluid leakage and normal operation.

PAN REMOVAL AND FILTER SERVICE e>On transmissions not equipped with a dipstick tube, refer to the Filling Drivetrain Fluids heading in this section before beginning any work. xf

1-50

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

“2s CAUTION Do not drain the fluid while it is hot as it splatters easily and severe burns could result. Automatic transmissions rely on many precision manufactured components, such as check valves, hydraulic pumps, hydraulic valves and the valve body, and use friction materials similar to a brake shoe or clutch disk for gear engagement. Because the transmission fluid is exposed to high operating temperatures, and wear related debris from the metal components and clutch material fibers, it is possible for dirty or contaminated transmission fluid to mask a worn component. If the fluid has not been changed regularly, the transmission can build up sludge, carbon and other wear related debris that can make a moving hydraulic component stick or assist the operation of worn components by reducing their clearance. Use caution when changing the fluid and filter on a transmission that has not been regularly serviced and/or has high mileage. Changing the fluid and filter could result in a sudden failure or erratic operation and/or shift engagement. This usually happens because the built up contaminants that were once compensating for the internal wear have been flushed out and removed when the fluid and filter is changed. This is not meant to discourage someone from servicing their transmission. Statistics have proven that routine maintenance pays off over the long run. However the consequences that could result from servicing a transmission which has high mileage and/or has not been maintained within the service interval guidelines may not provide the results anticipated. If the transmission’s fluid level is within specification, and the transmission is either slipping or shifting erratically, it should be examined by a BMW dealer or a transmission specialist, before servicing the transmission oil and filter. To remove the transmission sump and replace the filter, the vehicle will need to be raised, and safely supported to remove the fluid pan and change the filter. On models without a dipstick, the vehicle must also be level, and the fluid level is checked from underneath the vehicle. Because of the size of the oil sump, to minimize fluid spills, a transmission fluid service drain splash shield should be placed over a suitable drain pan. If a transmission fluid service drain splash shield is not available, a sturdy non metallic mortar mixing pan works well as a substitute and is available from most hardware stores.

E30 Models

4HP 22 AND THM-R1 TRANSMISSIONS

> See Figures 190, 191 and 192 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle in a level plane. Place a suitable drain pan

equipped with a transmission fluid service drain splash shield or a suitable sized drain pan under the. transmission sump. Remove the dipstick on vehicles so equipped. On vehicles with locking dipsticks, tilt the top of the dipstick to unlock. 2. Loosen and remove the oil filler tube from the sump pan if not equipped with a drain plug. Be ready to catch fluid as it drains. 3. Remove the sump pan drain plug and catch the draining fluid. 4. Note the positions of the pan holder at each bolt and loosen and remove the bolts. 5. Remove the pan and gasket. Remove the screws from the filter. Note their positions. Check that the O-ring from the filter did not stick to the transmission valve body. 6. Install the new filter and O-ring. Replace the screws in their original positions. 7. Clean the pan and magnets. Replace the pan gasket and install the pan on the transmission. Replace the pan holders and bolts at their original positions. Torque to 53-62 inch Ibs. (6-7 Nm). 8. Attach the oil filler tube, if disconnected, and torque to 72 ft. Ibs. (98 Nm). 9, Replace the gasket or crush washer on the drain plug and torque to 11-12.5 ft. Ibs. (15-17 Nm) for transmissions with a M10 drain plug or 29.5-34 ft. Ibs. (40-46 Nm) for transmissions with a M18 drain plug. 10. Initially fill the transmission with approximately 3.2 quarts (3.0 liters) of DEXRON® III automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube on vehicles with dipsticks or through the fill plug on the side of the sump for transmissions without a dipstick. 11. Refer to the fluid level checking procedures in this section and top off the fluid level as necessary.

a a

may result.

elf after replacing the filter, the transmission exhibits any of the following characteristics, it is possible the seal and/or gasket between the filter and the valve body is damaged, missing, or improperly installed.

Symptoms of a damaged, missing, or improperly installed filter-to-valve body seal and/or gasket include: e Erratic operation e Transmission valve chatter e Poor engagement qualities e Non-definitive shift points e Formation of foam or aeration of fluid e Inability of the engine to transmit power through the transmission E36 Models

A4S 270 R, A4S 310 R, AND A5S 310 Z TRANSMISSIONS

> See Figures 190, 191 and 192 The A4S 270 R and A4S 310 R may be assembled with standard sized fasteners.

The transmission fluid levels will vary with fluid temperature. Proper filling procedures must be observed.

90961PB3

Fig. 191 Removing the transmission sump pan using professional level draining equipment helps minimize the risk of a ‘messy fluid spill

It is absolutely essential that the gaskets and/or O-ring between the filter and the transmission valve body be in good condition and properly installed, otherwise poor engagement qualities, slipping, erratic shifting and/or internal mechanical damage

12. Test drive the vehicle and check for normal operation and fluid leaks.

90961PB4

84277011

Fig. 190 Both pans should be removed on the THM-R1

Fig. 192 A transmission fluid service drain splash shield helps to minimize fluid spills. Place it over top of a suitable drain pan and the transmission can be serviced with the vehicle on jack stands if a lift is not available

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE RT

SEB

TE

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle in a level plane. Place a suitable drain pan equipped with a transmission fluid service drain splash shield or a Suitable sized drain pan under the transmission sump. 2. Remove the drain plug located at the corner of the transmission sump and drain the fluid into the drain pan. 3. Note the location of the fasteners and brackets and remove the oil sump and gaskets. On A4S 270 R and A4S 310 R transmissions, remove both oil sumps and gaskets. 4. Remove all but one of the fasteners securing the filter assembly onto the transmission valve body. Slowly begin to remove the last fastener, turning it about 3-4 complete revolutions. Carefully wiggle the filter assembly until it releases itself from the valve body and allow the additional fluid to drain, then remove the fastener and the filter. To install: 5. Inspect the filter and the valve body for any remaining gasket material and/or O-rings. Remove any residual gasket or O-ring material from the valve body, cleaning the mounting surface on the valve body as necessary. 6. Install the new filter using new gaskets and/or O-rings and torque as follows: a. A4S 270 R, A4S 310 R transmissions (SA6 inch fasteners): 14.75 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) b. A5S 310Z transmissions: 53 inch Ibs. (6 Nm) , 7. Clean the sump(s), gasket mating surfaces and magnetic drain plugs thoroughly. 8. Replace all drain plug crush washers, seals, gaskets and O-rings as necessary. e>On AAS 270 R and A4S 310 R transmissions, replace the M6 fasteners, or clean and install with locking compound.

9. On A4S 270 R and A4S 310 R transmissions, use new fasteners, or clean and install with locking compound. Use care to not overtighten. Install the sump(s) making sure all sump brackets, if equipped are in their correct positions. 10. Following are the torque specifications for the A4S 270 R, A4S 310 transmissions: ¢ M14 fill plugs: 18 ft. Ibs. (25 Nm) e M18x 1.5 drain plugs: 24 ft. Ibs. (33 Nm) e M6 Sump fasteners: 106 inch Ibs. (12 Nm) 11. Following are the torque specifications for the A5S 310 Z transmissions: e M10 drain plug: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) e Fill plug, M30 thread, large inverted hex: 74 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm) ¢ M6 sump fasteners: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) 12. Initially fill the transmission with the proper amount of the recommended fluid and top off as necessary Refer to the fluid level checking procedures in this section.

IA

TPS

EIEN SET ENE OCT

FF

BEEBE

EIEN

DEDC BBEBE Pi EMOTE

e A5S 310 Z transmissions: 3.5 quarts (3.3 liters)

Failure to use the correct fluid and observe the recommended level checking procedures could result in severe component failure. 13. Check and top off the transmission fluid as outlined in this section. 14. Test drive and check for fluid leakage and normal operation. e>lf after replacing the filter, the transmission exhibits any of the following characteristics, it is possible the seal and/or gasket between the filter and the valve body is damaged, missing, or improperly installed.

Symptoms of a damaged, missing, or improperly installed filter-to-valve body seal and/or gasket include: e Erratic operation e Transmission valve chatter ¢ Poor engagement qualities e Non-definitive shift points e Formation of foam or aeration of fluid e Inability of the engine to transmit power through the transmission

Transfer Case

FLUID RECOMMENDATION

y ,

Front and Rear Axles

> See Figure 193 Refer to the Filling Drivetrain Fluids heading

in this section before beginning any work.

1. With the car ona level surface, remove the filler plug from the side of the differential. 2. Ifthe oil begins to trickle out of the hole, there is enough. Otherwise, carefully insert your finger (watch out for sharp threads) into the hole and check that the oil is up to the bottom edge of the filler hole. 3. If the fluid level is low, add oil through the hole until the level is at the edge of the hole. Most gear oils come in a plastic squeeze bottle with a nozzle; making additions is simple. You can also use a common kitchen baster. On E30 models use only standard GL-5 hypoid-type gear oil, SAE 90. On E36 models use the recommended lubricant.

e>Refer to the Filling Drivetrain Fluids heading

DRAIN AND REFILL

in this section before beginning any work.

Remove the filler plug on the side of the transfer case. The fluid should be level with the bottom of the filler plug hole. Torque’ M14 and M24 plugs to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm). Torque M18 plugs to 14-18 ft. Ibs. (20-25 Nm).

DRAIN AND REFILL The transfer case has a drain plug that is removed to drain the fluid. To fill the transfer case, open the filler plug located on the top edge of the

1. Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake. 2. Remove the filler plug. 3. Place a large container underneath the rear axle. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the differential and allow all lubricant to drain into the pan. 4, When all lubricant has drained out, clean and replace the drain plug. Use a new crush washer. . Torque to 40 ft. Ibs. (55 Nm) on the rear axle and 14 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) on the front axle.

- case and add the fluid. The fluid should flow from

the filler hole when it is full. Torque M14 and M24 plugs to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-35 Nm). Torque M18 plugs to 14-18 ft. Ibs. (20-25 Nm).

Differential

differentials used GL-5 hypoid-type gear oil, SAE 90.

7 e

LEVEL CHECK

> See Figure 194

initial fluid fill amounts may vary. Always check and top off the fluid level as outlined in this section.

quarts (3.0liters)

(325iX/iXA) BMW Synthetic Final Drive Oil SAF-XLS: For vehicles with a multi-plate limited slip differential. DO NOT use in the Z3 Roadster BMW Synthetic Final Drive Oil SAF-XJ: For Z3 Roadsters with a multi-plate limited slip differential.

LEVEL CHECK

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS

© A4S 270R/A4S310R transmissions: 3.2

May 1996 to inform the dealer network that a synthetic based lubricant is now being installed as a factory fill. The highlights of the bulletin are as follows: BMW Synthetic Final Drive Oil SAF-XO: For vehicles without a multi-plate limited slip differential, or with a viscous-type differential lock

The transfer case contains 0.53 quarts (0.5 liters) of DEXRON®II ATF. This is the factory recommended fluid to use in the transfer case.

>On models with two sumps, if both sumps are drained, add an additional 2.1 quarts (2.0 liters)

Initial transmission fluid fill amounts:

1-51 RL ete ee

Prior to the introduction of the E36 models, most “With the introduction of the E36 models, the fluid recommendations for the differential varies from

model to model and the type of differential that is installed, (Limited Slip or not). BMW released a Service Information Bulletin S. |.33 01 92 (3667) dated

90961P78

Fig. 193 Use a short 14mm hex wrench to remove the rear inspection/fill plug

1-52

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE tiveness of the fluid as a heat transfer medium and could cause deterioration of coolant passage seals. Using distilled water instead of tap water will also help in the prevention of cooling system deposits.

LEVEL CHECK > See Figures 195, 196 and 197

Fig. 194 Use a 14mm hex wrench to remove the drain plug (which is located below the fill plug). Replace the washer when reinstalling

5. On E30 models, refill with GL-5 hypoid-type gear oil, SAE 90, On E36 models refill with the recommended lubricant until it runs out of the fill hole. Replace the filler plug and torque to 40 ft. Ibs. (55 Nm). Run the car and check for leaks.

Cooling System “2 CAUTION Never open, serviceor drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

BMW vehicles are equipped with translucent coolant expansion tanks. There will be marks indicating “MAX” and/or “COLD” levels. There is no need to remove the fill cap from the expansion tank to check the fluid level. Do not remove the fill cap unless coolant needs to be added to the system.

>< CAUTION Do not remove the expansion tank fill cap with the engine still hot. Allow the engine to cool, then remove the cap. Coolant can ignite if spilled onto an overheated engine. Do not add coolant to a hot engine. The temperature differential between the hot metal and the cold coolant can cause warpage, boiling splash back and other damage to the engine or personal injury.

2. Remove the cap on the radiator expansion tank. 3. If equipped, remove the front underbody protection panel. 4. Place a suitable coolant drain pan under the radiator drain plug. Remove the plug and allow the coolant to drain and reinstall the plug with a new gasket. 5. Place a suitable coolant drain pan under the right rear portion of the engine and remove the engine block drain plug. On 6-cylinder engines, the plug is located below the exhaust header for cylinders Nos. 4 and 5. On 4-cylinder engines, the drain plug on the right side of the block toward the rear of the engine. Reinstall the drain plug using a new gasket. To refill: 6. Use a ®%o mixture of an approved coolant and if available, distilled water. Do not exceed a solution of coolant to water greater than 60%. e>Using distilled water helps reduce deposits that collect in the coolant passages of an aluminum core radiator.

7. Switch the ignition ON, set the heater control to maximum temperature and set the blower to run on low speed.

DRAIN AND REFILL > See Figures 198 and 199 1. Ifthe engine is hot, allow the engine coolant to cool to 86°F (30°C).

FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS BMW recommends that the coolant be changed every 2 years. BMW recommends that an ethylene glycol based antifreeze coolant be used. Stay with a name brand that is compatible with aluminum and is nitrate and amino free. The coolant should be a 50/50 mix with distilled water to achieve protection to minus 35°F. (minus 31°C.). The concentration should not exceed 60% as this will actually reduce the effec-

84271053

84271052

Fig. 195 The coolant expansion tank is translucent, which makes checking the fluid level easy

Fig. 196 The integral coolant expansion tank is also translucent for easy level checks

. _

84271054

Fig. 197 The bleeder is located next to radiator cap. Check the radiator cap gaskets when removed

Fig. 198 The radiator drain is located at the bottom of the radiator. A large flat blade or Phillips screwdriver is used to loosen the plug |

Radiator cap

cal 90962P23

Fig. 199 The radiator cap and coolant bleeder valve are found on the reservoir tank—E36 M44 model shown

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 8. If the coolant expansion tank does not have a bleed screw the bleeding of the cooling system occurs during refilling. To assist with the removal of any trapped air pockets, squeeze the lower radiator hose during the refilling process. 9. If the coolant expansion tank has a bleed

valve, loosen the valve. Inspect the coolant pipes at the front of the engine for the presence of an additional bleed valve which is standard equipment on all M52 engines and loosen that bleed valve. 10. Fill the cooling system slowly, closing the bleed screws once the fluid is free of any air bubbles. 11. Start the engine, and with the reservoir cap removed give the engine 3 or four short bursts of throttle between 4,500-5,000 RPM, but do not run the engine longer than 30 seconds, otherwise the coolant will heat up and expand. 12. Top off the coolant level, install the reservoir cap and if equipped, make sure all the bleed screws are closed. Start the engine and allow the engine to reach operating temperature. Do not remove the coolant fill cap until the engine coolant

has cooled to 86°F (30°C). 13. Allow the engine to cool, inspect the coolant level and top off as necessary.

FLUSHING AND CLEANING With the use of electrically actuated heater valves and bi-zone heater cores, it is not easy or advisable to cut hoses to mount a flushing tee. Drain the system, add clear water, bleed the system and run the engine to flush the system of old coolant. Drain the

system, add fresh coolant and bleed the system. This will get rid of most of the old coolant and keep the cooling system in good shape. It is important to change the coolant on a regular basis, every 2 years, as this will prevent corrosion from building up and creating the need for cleaning the cooling system.

Clutch and Brake Master

Cylinder The clutch and brake master cylinders share a fluid reservoir. Note that a leaking clutch slave or master cylinder will lower the reservoir level just as easily as a leaking brake hydraulic system. BMW recommends that the brake fluid be changed and the system bled every 2 years. It may be wise to increase that interval to once a year for increased protection from hydraulic system damage. If the vehicle is used for sporting purposes, it is wise to change the fluid after each event.

LEVEL CHECK > See Figures 200 and 201 Wipe the reservoir cap and surrounding area Clean. Make sure the level is up to the full marker (the reservoir is translucent). If necessary, add

DOT 4 specification fluid that is brand new (do not attempt to reuse fluid). Be careful not to drop any dirt into the fluid, and avoid spilling fluid on the paint work, or wipe it up immediately if it spills.

Power Steering Pump FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS All vehicles covered in this manual use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) as the power steering fluid. Use DEXRON® III type ATF.

LEVEL CHECK

FLUID RECOMMENDATION Use only high quality, name brand DOT 4 brake fluid. Use tightly sealed small containers to refill the reservoir. Large containers offer a false economy. A large container that has been opened will absorb moisture and ruin the fluid. Only use large containers when performing major work on the brake or clutch hydraulic systems and the entire contents will be used at once. Tightly cap any container to prevent moisture from being absorbed into the brake fluid.

|

1-53

» See Figures 202, 203, 204 and 205 The power steering fluid reservoir is located on the left side of the engine toward the front. On E36

, 84271055

90961P18

Fig. 200 The clutch and brake share the same fluid reservoir which is mounted onto the brake master cylinder

Fig. 201 The brake and clutch fluid level should be between the MIN and MAX marks

84271056

Fig. 202 The power steering fluid dipstick is part of the cap on the reservoir

=¥

je

Maximum

F4

90961P46 84271057

Fig. 203 View of the power steering and self leveling system hydraulic fluid reserVoir ‘s

Fig. 204 Wipe the collected debris from the cap before removing. Note the air fil-

ter housing is removed for accessibility— E36 M44 model shown

90961P84

Fig. 205 The fluid level should be between the minimum and maximum level marks

1-54

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

models, it may be necessary to remove the air filter housing to access the reservoir. Stop the engine and remove the cap/dipstick from the power steering reservoir. The dipstick is part of the reservoir cap and is removed by turning the cap counterclockwise. Wipe the filler cap from debris before removing the cap, then remove and wipe the dipstick and replace in the reservoir. Remove the cap and check the level. Check that the level is between the marks on the dipstick and add fluid as necessary. Run the engine and recheck the fluid level. With the engine not running, the fluid level may rise above the marks on the dipstick, but this is normal.

Chassis Greasing The suspension components are sealed, and no fittings are available for periodic greasing.

Body Lubrication And Maintenance LOCK CYLINDERS Apply graphite lubricant sparingly through the key slot. Insert the key and operate the lock several

times to be sure that the lubricant is worked into the lock cylinder. Or with the windows in the raised position spray a small amount of a lubricating oil into the lock cylinder and while wearing eye protection, apply a short blast of compressed air.

DOOR HINGES, LATCHES, STRIKERS AND CATCHES Spray a light oil lubricant on the hinge pivot points to eliminate any binding conditions. Open and close the door several times to be sure that the lubricant is evenly and thoroughly distributed. Wipe the joint to remove any excess oil.

BODY DRAIN HOLES Be sure that the drain holes in the doors, rocker panels and sun roof (if equipped) are cleared of obstruction. A small screwdriver can be used to clear them of any debris.

water and white vinegar. Do not use any cleaner containing an abrasive. Exterior glass and lenses can be cleaned with water and car washing solu-

tion or with the same mixture used for the interior glass.

RUBBER SEALS AND TRIM

PAINT Wash the car either by hand or in an automatic car wash. Rinse the car first with a light stream of water to loosen any dirt on the painted surfaces. Soak any dead bugs with water and car washing solution, then wipe off. Wash the car out of direct sunlight as waterspots can form if water is allowed to evaporate from the painted surfaces. Use only waxes with carnuba or synthetic formulations. Keep a good coat of wax on the car to protect the surface from contaminants. Use only high quality paint care products as available through your dealer or specialty boutique. Wash the car often in the winter months to keep road salt off the car. Touch up any paint damage with matching paint. Do not allow moisture to collect under a car cover if one is used.

UNDERHOOD The engine compartment should be cleaned and treated once a year. This will clean away any accumulated dirt, grease and oil that may be hiding

leaks or other problems. A clean engine runs cooler and makes routine maintenance more pleasurable. BMW does not recommend the use of high pressure washers on the engine or related components.

GLASS

Clean with water and treat with recommended lubricant. A commercial rubber treatment can also be used. Do not use harsh solvents as these will damage the rubber.

SEATBELTS Wash the seatbelts with soap and water. Keep the seatbelts fully extended until they dry completely. Never allow the seatbelts to retract while still wet.

UPHOLSTERY Use a product designed for the seating surfaces your car has. If you have a cloth interior, brush the nap of the fabric after cleaning to restore the pile. Wipe down leather seats with a wool or cotton cloth that is slightly moist. Dry the leather and treat it with a leather care product.

Wheel Bearings

:

REPACKING Both the front and rear wheel bearings are sealed units. The front wheel bearings are replaced as a hub unit. The rear wheel bearings are pressed into the trailing arm.

Interior glass surfaces can be cleaned with a commercial cleaner or a one to one mixture of

TRAILER TOWING BMW of North America does not recommend

using your BMW to tow a trailer.

TOWING THE VEHICLE > See Figures 206, 207, 208 and 209 lf your car needs to be towed, the best method is by flatbed. The risk of body damage or drive . axle and transmission damage is reduced by using a flatbed. If a flatbed is not available, have the car towed by a wheel lift type tow truck. Do not tow the vehicle with a sling or bumper lift type tow truck or severe damage to the bodywork will occur. If the car is equipped with automatic transmission, a few special precautions must be taken to prevent the transmission from being damaged. The car must be towed with the selector lever in the NEUTRAL position. The car may be towed a maximum distance of 30 miles (50 km) at a maximum towing speed of 25-30 mph. If the car must be _towed a greater distance then stated above, either

\

the driveshaft must be disconnected or an additional 2.1 pints of DEXRON® II] must be added to the transmission (to be drained immediately after towing). If the vehicle needs to be pulled out of mud or sand, use a nylon tow strap to pull the vehicle out. All vehicles are equipped with tow eyes or attachment points for screw-in tow eyes. The screw-in tow eye is located in the toolkit. The tow eyes or attachment points are located behind panels in the front and back of the vehicle. Pry the panel off to expose the tow eye or attachment point. Screw in the tow eye fully and tightly. Do not tow with the tow eye loose. It is recommended not to push your BMW. Due to height differences in bumpers and the possibility of damaging the energy absorption bumper, do not push your car.

90961P11

Fig. 206 The tow hook is located in the tool kit in the luggage compartment

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

90961P71R

90961P70

Fig. 207 To install the tow hook, carefully lift away the trim cover on the right front of the bumper

Fig. 208 Once the trim panel is removed, the threaded hole for the tow hook is exposed

JUMP STARTING A DEAD BATTERY

Jump Starting Precautions

> See Figure 210 Whenever a vehicle is jump started, precautions must be followed in order to prevent the possibility of personal injury. Remember that batteries contain a small amount of explosive hydrogen gas which is a by-product of battery charging. Sparks should always be avoided when working around batteries, especially when attaching jumper cables. To minimize the possibility of accidental sparks, follow the procedure carefully.

NEVER hook the batteries up in a series circuit or the entire electrical system will go up in smoke, including the starter! Vehicles equipped with a diesel engine may utilize two 12 volt batteries. If so, the batteries are connected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to positive terminal, negative terminal to negative terminal). Hooking the batteries up in parallel circuit increases battery cranking power (amperage) without increasing total battery voltage output. Output remains at 12 volts. On the other hand, hooking two 12 volt batteries up in a series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal, positive terminal to negative terminal) increases total battery output to 24 volts (12 volts plus 12 volts). MAKE CONNECTIONS IN NUMERICAL ORDER FIRST JUMPER CABLE

DO NOT ALLOW VEHICLES TO TOUCH

DISCHARGED BATTERY

{4)_} seconp JUMPER CABLE

MAKE LAST CONNECTION ON

¢ Be sure that both batteries are of the same voltage. Vehicles covered by this manual and most vehicles on the road today utilize a 12 volt charging system. ¢ Be sure that both batteries are of the same polarity (have the same terminal, in most cases NEGATIVE grounded). e Be sure that the vehicles are not touching or a short could occur. ¢ On serviceable batteries, be sure the vent cap holes are not obstructed. e Do not smoke or allow sparks anywhere near the batteries. ¢ Incold weather, make sure the battery electrolyte is not frozen. This can occur more readily in a battery that has been in a state of discharge. ¢ Do not allow electrolyte to contact your skin or clothing.

JUMP STARTING E30 Models 1. Make sure that the voltages of the 2 batteries are the same. Most batteries and charging systems are of the 12 volt variety. 2. Pull the jumping vehicle (with the good battery) into a position so the jumper cables can reach the dead battery and that vehicle’s engine. Make sure that the vehicles do NOT touch. 3. Place the transmissions of both vehicles in Neutral (MT) or P (AT), as applicable, then firmly set their parking brakes. e>lf necessary for safety reasons, the hazard lights on both vehicles may be operated throughout the entire procedure without significantly increasing the difficulty of jumping the

4. Turn all lights and accessories OFF on both BATTERY IN VEHICLE WITH CHARGED BATTERY TCCS1080

Fig. 210 Connect the jumper cables to the eries and engine in the order shown

Oy

vehicles. Make sure the ignition switches on both vehicles are turned to the OFF position. 5. Cover the battery cell caps with a rag, but do not cover the terminals. 6. Make sure the terminals on both batteries are clean and free of corrosion or proper electrical

en oe hg

ee

are

90961P69

Fig. 209 The tow hook simply threads into the receptacle on the bumper

connection will be impeded. If necessary, clean the battery terminals before proceeding. 7. Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on both batteries. 8. Connect the first jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery, then connect the other end of that cable to the positive (+) terminal of the booster (good) battery.

9. Connect one end of the other jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal on the booster battery and the final cable clamp to an engine bolt head, alternator bracket or other solid, metallic point on the engine with the dead battery. Try to pick a ground on the engine that is positioned away from the battery in order to minimize the possibility of the 2 clamps touching should one loosen during the procedure. DO NOT connect this clamp to the negative (-) terminal of the bad battery.

2: CAUTION Be very careful to keep the jumper cables away from moving parts (cooling fan, belts, etc.) on both engines.

Jump Starting Procedure

dead battery.

ENGINE, AWAY FROM BATTERY

1-55

ee

10. Check to make sure that the cables are routed away from any moving parts, then start the donor vehicle's engine. Run the engine at moderate speed for several minutes to allow the dead battery a chance to receive some initial charge. 11. With the donor vehicle's engine still running slightly above idle, try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. Crank the engine for no more than 10 seconds at a time and let the starter cool for at least 20 seconds between tries. If the vehicle does not start in 3 tries, it is likely that something else is also wrong or that the battery needs additional time to charge. 12. Once the vehicle is started, allow itto run at idle for a few seconds to make sure that it is operating properly. 13. Turn ON the headlights, heater blower and, if equipped, the rear defroster of both vehicles in order to reduce the severity of voltage spikes and subsequent risk of damage to the vehicles’ electrical systems when the cables are disconnected. This _ Step is especially important to any vehicle equipped with computer control modules. 14. Carefully disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection. Start with the negative cable that is attached to the engine ground, then the negative cable on the donor battery. Disconnect the

1-56

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE oe

Fach

Negatives(

Fig. 212 Open the hood and lift up the pro-

Fig. 213 Attach the jumper cable’s negative (-) lead to the negative (-) jump post,

Fig. 211 The remote positive battery terminal is used for jump starting

tective cover to expose the jump post for the positive (+) lead of the jumper cable

and the positive (+) lead to the positive (+) jump post

positive cable from the donor battery and finally, disconnect the positive cable from the formerly dead battery. Be careful when disconnecting the cables from the positive terminals not to allow the alligator clips to touch any metal on either vehicle or a short and sparks will occur.

Neutral (MT) or P (AT), as applicable, then firmly set their parking brakes.

E36 Models

dead battery.

» See Figures 211, 212 and 213

4. Properly connect the positive battery jumper cable lead to the vehicle used to supply the required voltage. The red lead of the jumper cable is the positive battery lead. 5. Lift up the positive jump post protective cover on the vehicle to be jumped and attach the positive lead of the jumper cable. 6. Locate the large hex shaped negative grounding lug on the shock tower or firewall on the vehicle to be jumped, and attach the negative lead (black) of the jumper cables to the grounding lug.

84271028

BMW provides a positive and negative jump start post in the engine compartment on the passenger's side. The positive jump start post is located under-

neath a protective plastic cover with a large + symbol cast into the cover. To jump start the vehicle using the under hood battery posts proceed as follows: 1. Verify that the vehicle used to supply battery voltage has a 12 Volt system with a similar sized battery, and correctly identify the positive and negative battery terminals. 2. Pull the jumping vehicle (with the good battery) into a position so the jumper cables can reach the dead battery and that vehicle's engine. Make sure that the vehicles do NOT touch. 3. Place the transmissions of both vehicles in

90961P25

e>lf necessary for safety reasons, the hazard lights on both vehicles may be operated throughout the entire procedure without significantly increasing the difficulty of jumping the

> CAUTION Be very careful to keep the jumper cables away from moving parts (cooling fan, belts,

7. Connect the negative lead to the supply vehicle's battery ground, or to a suitable chassis or engine ground. DO NOT allow the jumper cable leads to touch one another at any time.

8. Once the vehicle has been started, turn on the headlights and set the climate control blower to the highest speed for at least 10 sec-

onds before disconnecting the battery jumper cables to avoid a voltage spike at the voltage regulator. 9. Carefully disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection. Start with the negative cable that is attached to the engine ground, then the negative cable on the donor battery. Disconnect the positive cable from the donor battery and finally, disconnect the positive cable from the formerly dead battery. Be careful when disconnecting the cables from the positive terminals not to allow the alligator clips to touch any metal on either vehicle or a short and sparks will occur.

etc.) on both engines.

JACKING » See Figures 214, 215, 216 and 217 Do not use the tire changing jack to work on the vehicle. Use a hydraulic floor jack rated for the weight of the vehicle. BMW supplies a wheel chock with each vehicle. Use the wheel chock whenever raising the car. The vehicle should be jacked up only using the factory jacking points. The jacking points along the rocker panel are marked with indents in the metal. Chock the wheel opposite the corner being raised. Pad the jack saddle with a rubber pad or a block of wood. Use jackstands to support the car. Do not go under the car with the car supported only by the jack. On the E36 3 Series, the jacking points for a garage jack are located directly below the openings for the tire changing jack and are raised platforms on the underside of the body.

*k CAUTION __ The car must be secure on the jack and the ~~ jackstands at all times during the lifting s

phase or when stationary. If the car is not stable and secure, the car may fall, damaging the vehicle and causing personal injury or death.

CHANGING TIRES » See Figure 218 1. With the car still on the ground, set the parking brake and put the car in PARK or 1st gear. 2. Place the supplied chock under the rear wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle. 3. On vehicles with the cross spoke type wheels, remove the lug cover with the supplied wrench. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to remove. 4. Loosen the lug bolts, Place the jack in the jacking point. Make sure the ground underneath the jack is stable enough to support the weight of the vehicle. Place a board under the jack on soft ground,

5. Raise the vehicle enough to provide space to fit the spare.

2k CAUTION Do not go under the car while it is supported solely by the tire changing jack. The jack can slip and fall causing personal injury or death. 6. Remove the lug bolts and remove the tire. A tire that has been run on while flat can be hot. To install: 7. Place the centering pin in one of the bolt holes. Place the wheel on the hub over the centering pin. Replace the lug bolts, removing the centering pin after at least one lug bolt is in place. Snug the bolts. 8. Lower the car and torque the lug bolts in a criss cross pattern to 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm). Replace the lug cover on cross spoke wheels.

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

1-57

90961PA2

90961PA1

Fig. 214 Place a block of wood on the floor jack to act as a cushion and avoid scratching the underbody paint/sealant

Fig. 215 The front and rear jack points are directly under the access hole covers in the rocker panel trim—tright front jack point shown

S00siPAg Fig. 216 The floor jack shown raising the vehicle at the right rear jack point

90961PA5

Fig. 217 When carefully placed under the differential, both rear

eat

,

90968P68

wheels can be raised at the same time. Make sure to properly block

Fig. 218 Always tighten and torque the road wheels in a crisscross

the front wheels

pattern

1-58

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE

Determined by Service Indicator or Perfrom Oil Service every 6 months Mileage is approximated

MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS VEHICLE MAINTENANCE INTERVALS @ miles (x1000)| 7.5 |15 [22.5] 30 [37.5] 45 [52.5] 60 |67.5] 75 |82.5] 90 |97.5] 105 ]112.5] 120| | _km (x1000)| 12 | 24 |36 |48 |60 |72 |84 |96 |108 |120} 132|144 |156 |168 |180|192|

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1-59

MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE INTERVALS VEHICLE MAINTENANCE INTERVALS @

Determined by Service Indicator or Perfrom Oil

Service every 6 months Mileage is approximated

|__miles (x1000)| 7.5 |15 |22.5] 30 [37.5] 45 [52.5] 60 [67.5] 75 [82.5] 90 [97.5] 105 [112.5] 120| |__km (x1000)} 12 | 24 | 36 |48 | 60_| 72 |84 | 96 |108|120] 132] 144 |156 |168 |180 |192, |___months} 6 _| 12 |18 |24 | 30 |36 |42 |48 |54 | 60 |66 |72 | 78 |84 |90 |96 | |_Inpection Type} Oil} 1} Oil} | olf | Lot t Lory | fou; font 1 Tout a

BMW INSPECTION II Includes all items listed in Inspection | and the following

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@ Perform maintenace at the same intervals for mileage beyond that on this chart

@ Change while engine at normal operating temperature. Replace engine oil and filter by Service Indicator or every 6 months, whichever occurs first. Do Not exceed 7,500 miles @ Do not reset Service Indicator between the normal service intervals if performing additional oil changes ® Replace fluid every 2 years. Time period begins from vehicle's production date

© Including spare tire © tt tread patterntreadwear uneven, suggest alignment

©) Replace more frequenly if driven in conjested industrialized urban areas or if climate control air flow is reduced Except M3 models with ZF A53 310Z transmissions and Esso LT Lifetime Fill Replace, except Lifetime oil. Check label on transmission for oil type. Lifetime oil used on early E36 M3 and most E36 models since 1998. For details consult a BMW dealer

© Every other Service II beginning with model year 1996 @) Requred for all models up to and including 1994, except California. Otherwise replace as necessary or iffuel pump becomes noisy @ Replace more frequenly ifdriven in conjested industrialized urban areas or heavy dust ®

Every 4 years or the first service after 50,000 miles 90961008

GENERAL INFORMATION AND MAINTENANCE 1-60

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DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM 2-2 GENERAL INFORMATION 2-2 DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING 2-2 SECONDARY SPARK TEST 2-2 CYLINDER DROP TEST 2-3 ADJUSTMENTS 2-3 IGNITION COIL 2-3 TESTING 2-3 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-3 IGNITION MODULE 2-3 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-3 DISTRIBUTOR 2-3 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR 2-3 CYLINDER POSITION SENSOR 2-3 DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM 2-4 GENERAL INFORMATION 2-4 DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING 2-4 ADJUSTMENTS 2-4 IGNITION COIL PACK 2-4 TESTING 2-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-5 IGNITION MODULE 2-5 TOP DEAD CENTER SENSORS 2-5

CYLINDER POSITION SENSOR 2-5 MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE PRESSURE SENSOR 2-5

|

TRI AL

ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR 2-5

KNOCK SENSOR 2-5

FIRING ORDERS 2-6 CHARGING SYSTEM 2-6 GENERAL INFORMATION 2-6 ALTERNATOR PRECAUTIONS 2-7 ALTERNATOR 2-7 TESTING 2-7

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-8 STARTING SYSTEM 2-10 GENERAL INFORMATION 2-10 TESTING 2-11 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-11 SOLENOID OR RELAY REPLACEMENT 2-13 SENDING UNITS 2-13 ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR 2-13 TESTING 2-14 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-16 OIL PRESSURE SENDER 2-17 TESTING 2-17 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-17 FUEL LEVEL SENDER 2-18 TESTING 2-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-19 COOLING FAN SWITCH 2-20 TESTING 2-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2-22

DISTRIBUTOR IGNTION SYSTEM 2-2

DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION

SYSTEM FIRING ORDERS CHARGING SYSTEM STARTING SYSTEM SENDING UNITS

2-4 2-6 2-6 2-10 2-13

2-2

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM e>For more information about understanding electricity and troubleshooting electrical circuits, please refer to Section 6 of this manual.

General Information Refer to the Distributorless Ignition System located in this section for engines/models not covered under this heading.

The electronic ignition system used on S14 and M20 engines is a combination of a distributor with the conventional breaker point ignition system found on earlier vehicles and a fully electronic system. This system uses a distributor cap and ignition rotor to distribute the ignition spark from a single ignition coil to each cylinder’s spark plug in the correct order and requires the cap and rotor to be inspected, cleaned, and/or replaced during periodic maintenance. Aside from the distributor cap and rotor, the main difference between this system and the breaker points type of ignition system is that it does not have any moving parts that require periodic adjustments, unlike breaker points, which require periodic rubbing block lubrication, adjustment and replacement. To advance the ignition timing relative to engine speed, the breaker point ignition systems used a mechanical, centrifugal advance unit and, if equipped, a vacuum diaphragm to fine tune the ignition timing based on throttle position. During full throttle operation, the ignition timing would advance based solely on the engine's speed. Those systems worked well for their day, however to meet today’s more stringent emission standards, the engine's operating efficiency must be optimized. To meet these standards, and optimize an engine's efficiency requires precise control of the ignition timing and fuel management system. To achieve this level of efficiency, the ignition timing advance is controlled electronically by the Engine Control Module (ECM), commonly referred to as the Digital Motor Electronics (DME) system. The DME system allows the ignition timing to be controlled electronically based on input from a collection of electronic sensors. This system allows the ignition timing advance to be adjusted and optimized instantly, for changes in engine speed, throttle position, intake manifold airflow rate and the engine coolant temperature. These sensors also assist the DME control unit to determine the proper fuel delivery. The ignition timing is fine tuned by the DME control unit for throttle position, intake manifold airflow rate and the engine coolant temperature. The two sensors that are used to plot the basic ignition advance and supply a voltage pulse signal to the ignition coil are the speed and reference sensors. Just as their names imply, the speed sensor monitors engine speed, and the reference sensor informs the DME control unit of the relative position of the crankshaft. These sensors are triggered electronically by either the teeth of the ring gear on the flywheel or a reference wheel mounted behind the front crankshaft pulley. As the teeth of the ring gear or reference wheel pass very closely to.the sensor, which is -simply a small electric coil, the electric field of the sensor is energized. As the teeth move past the sensor, the electric field of the sensor is collapsed

causing an electric pulse that is sent from the sensor to the DME contro! module. The control module uses these electric pulses to calculate the engine speed and the relative position of the crankshaft. The faster the engine spins, the faster the pulses are generated, allowing the DME control unit to calculate the engine's crankshaft speed. It's also worth noting that the DME fuel pump relay is actuated when it receives a pulse signal from these sensors. Hence should a sensor fail or if the engine stops rotating, the signal to the DME fuel pump relay is lost and the relay stops supplying voltage to the fuel pump.

Diagnosis and Testing

|

Prior to diagnosis or testing procedures, visually inspect the components of the ignition and engine control systems. Check for the following: e Blown fuses e Poor spark plug connections e Damaged or corroded ignition wires e Damaged or worn electrical insulation Discharged battery or low alternator output Ignition module multi-connector condition Damaged, corroded, or loose electrical connections e Excessively worn, defective, or damaged spark plugs e Excessively worn or damaged distributor cap or rotor Check the spark plug wires and boots for signs of poor insulation that could cause shorting or crossfiring. Make sure the battery is fully charged and that all accessories are off during diagnosis and testing. Make sure the idle speed is within specification. Check all of the fuel injector electrical connections.

SECONDARY SPARK TEST > See Figures 1 and 2

When testing the ignition system for a highenergy spark, make sure the test equipment is sufficiently grounded. Failure to do so may cause severe and expensive internal component damage. When testing for an ignition, spark make sure the area is free of any flammable materials. Do not hold or place hands or fingers near the test equipment when checking for a high voltage spark. Checking for a high-energy spark is easily performed using a spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available: e The Neon Bulb type: This tool connects to the spark plug wire and flashes with each ignition pulse. This is easy to use as it lights up with each ignition pulse e The Air Gap type: This tester is adjusted according to the spark plug gap specification for the engine. It is very useful because the gap can be adjusted to check the strength of the electrical spark and the color of the spark can be verified

90942P10

Fig. 1 This spark tester has an adjustable air-gap for measuring spark strength and testing different voltage ignition systems

90942P08

Fig. 2 To test for spark at the plug, ground the body to a known good ground such as this ground strap bolt

e The Spark Plug simulator: This looks like a spark plug, and has a grounding alligator style clip on the side. This checker is easy to use, and the spark color can be monitored The last two types of testers mentioned allow the user to not only detect the presence of spark, but also the intensity (orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong). To use these testers proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect a spark plug wire from the spark plug end. 2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate location on the engine. 3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.

4. \f spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly. 5. If all of the spark tests for all of the spark plug wires indicate irregular or weak spark, perform the following: a. Refer to the coil test. b. Carefully inspect the distributor cap and rotor for damage, corrosion or excessive wear. c. Inspect and test the ignition wires. Check the resistance of each spark plug wire. Refer to Section 1 for checking the resistance of the spark plug wires. If the wires are within specification, it will be necessary to diagnose the individual components of the ignition system. 6. If one or more, but not all of the tests indicate irregular, or weak spark;

ENGINE ELECTRICAL RS

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a. Inspect and test the ignition wires. Check the resistance of each spark plug wire. Refer to Section 1 for checking the resistance of the spark plug wires. If the wire is within specification, it will be necessary to diagnose the individual components of the ignition system.

b. Carefully inspect the distributor cap and rotor for an internal short, damage, corrosion or excessive wear. 7. \f spark does not exist, perform the following: a. Remove the distributor cap, detach all of the electrical connectors at the distributor, and ensure that the rotor is turning when the engine is cranked. b. Carefully inspect the distributor cap and rotor for damage, corrosion or excessive wear.

c. Inspect and test the ignition wires. Check the resistance of each spark plug wire. Refer to Section 1 for checking the resistance of the spark plug wires. If the wire is within specification, it will be necessary to diagnose the individual components of the ignition system.

CYLINDER DROP TEST

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2. Using a spark plug wire-removing tool, preferably, the pliers type, carefully remove and ground the ignition wire from one of the cylinders.

Make sure not to touch any part of the car that is metal. The secondary voltage from the ignition system is a high-energy spark, and although it is not deadly, the voltage is significant enough to cause a painful electrical shock. 3. The engine will sputter, run worse, and possibly nearly stall. If this happens reinstall the plug wire and move to the next cylinder. If the engine runs no differently, or the difference is minimal, shut the engine off and inspect the spark plug wire, spark plug, and if necessary, perform component diagnostics as covered in this section. Perform this test on all cylinders to verify which cylinders seem low on power.

The ignition timing is controlled by the DME control unit. No adjustment is possible.

> See Figure 3

ok WARNING

Ignition Coil

When performing a cylinder drop make sure the cylinder’s high-tension lead for the cylinder being checked is sufficiently grounded. Failure to do so may cause severe and expensive internal component damage.

TESTING $14 And M20 Engines

1. Note the radio security code, then disconnect A cylinder drop test can be performed when an engine misfire is present. This test helps determine which cylinder is not contributing to the engine’s power. The easiest way to perform this test is to remove and ground the plug wires one at a time for each cylinder with the engine running. 1. Place the automatic transmission in P, and the manual transmission in N and engage the emergency brake. Then start the engine and allow the engine to reach a warm idle.

the negative battery cable. 2. Locate the ignition coil. With the ignition

OFF, disconnect the ignition lead from the coil tower. Label and remove the wires from the terminals marked 15 (+) and 1 (-). Note that the high voltage wire connector on the center tower terminal is referred to as 4. Resistance will vary with coil temperature. All specifications are measured at a tempera-

ture of 68°F (20°C)

3. Using an ohmmeter, measure the primary ~ resistance between the 15 (+) and 1 (-) terminals. The primary winding resistance should be 0.82 ohms. 4. Using an ohmmeter, measure the secondary resistance between the 15 (+) and the high-voltage output secondary winding terminal 4. The secondary winding resistance should be 8,250 ohms (8.25 Kilo ohms) 5. Replace the coil if it's not within specifications. 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 17 s10s2Pt4

Fig. 3 These pliers are insulated and help protect the user from shock. They also prevent the plug wires from being dam-

aged

$14 And M20 Engines 1. Note the radio security code, then disconnect the,negative battery cable.

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2. Locate the ignition coil. With the ignition OFF, disconnect the ignition lead from the coil tower. Label and remove the wires from the terminals marked 15 (+) and 1 (-), then remove the high voltage wire connector from the center tower terminal. 3. Remove the fasteners securing the ignition coil mounting bracket and remove the ignition coil. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, noting to enter the radio security code once the battery is connected.

Ignition Module REMOVAL & INSTALLATION >The ignition module is incorporated into the DME control unit.

$14 And M20 Engines 1. If possible, bring the engine to operating temperature prior to replacing the control unit. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Open the glove compartment and remove the pins from the straps so the door drops down. 4. Remove the upper trim piece to access the DME unit. 5. Push the plug retainer back and remove the plug. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the DME unit. To install: 6. Install the DME unit and the 4 bolts.

7. Install the plug onto the DME unit and snap

the retainer into place.

8. Replace the trim and the glove compartment door.

Distributor The ignition rotor in the distributor assembly used on the S14 and M20 engines is driven off the front of a camshaft. The sole purpose of the distributor is to distribute the high energy ignition from the ignition coil to the spark plugs. Aside from the distributor cap and rotor there are no

additional ignition components located within the distributor housing. The distributor housing serves only as a mounting surface for the distributor cap.

Crankshaft Position Sensor Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4 for information on servicing the Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor. -

Cylinder Position Sensor Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4 for information on servicing the Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor.

2-4

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM General Information » See Figure 4 Beginning with the introduction to North America in 1992 of the E36 chassis/platform, the Double Overhead Camshaft 4-cylinder M42 and 6-cylinder M50 engines found in the 3 Series vehicles have been equipped with a distributorless ignition system. The ignition timing and ignition advance are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to match the driving, fuel and atmospheric conditions. The PCM optimizes the ignition timing using input from a collection of sensors. The ignition timing can be checked for diagnostic purposes, although it cannot be adjusted. The distributorless ignition system uses one ignition coil per cylinder, unlike the distributor type system that has one ignition coil for the entire system and uses a distributor to dispense the high-voltage ignition to the spark plugs. The distributorless ignition system, which uses individual ignition coils, operates on the same principle as those on the distributor-equipped engines. However, instead of the distributor's rotation being used to distribute the spark from the ignition coil, the PCM controls the switching of the current through the primary windings for each of the individual ignition coils. When current to the ignition . Coil is stopped, a high voltage current flows directly from the ignition coil to the spark plug. The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing for different engine speeds and manifold airflow rates. The PCM also adjusts the ignition timing according to engine coolant temperature. The Cylinder Position (CKP) sensor is used by the PCM to monitor the crankshaft speed. A misfire can be detected by the PCM if the crankshaft speed fluctuates. The following sensors are used by the PCM for ignition timing control: ¢ Top Dead Center (TDC) sensors. These two sensors, TDC1 and TDC2, determine ignition timing during start up and when the crank angle is abnormal e Cylinder Position (CKP) sensor. This sensor detects engine speed e Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.

This sensor detects the intake manifold air volume e Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. This sensor monitors the engine coolant temperature e Knock Sensor (KS). This sensor allows the PCM to adjust ignition timing for the octane rating of the gasoline being used Information pertaining to these sensors is covered in more detail in Section 4 of this manual.

Diagnosis and Testing The distributorless ignition system can be diag-_ nosed and tested using a logical test sequence. The system can be broken down into three basic components. These components are the inputs (sen-

sors), the processor (Powertrain Control Module) and the output components (ignition coils). Basic troubleshooting of the ignition system can be accomplished by testing the input and output components. These simple troubleshooting procedures can be used to help locate and diagnose most problems. Diagnosing the PCM using basic tools and test equipment requires a process of elimination technique. 1. Check the operation of all input sensors. Please refer to Section 4 for additional information. 2. Check the wiring for all input sensors for continuity or a short to ground. 3. Check the ignition coils. Please refer to the following Ignition Coil Pack procedures for additional information. 4. Check the ignition coil wiring for continuity or a short to ground. 5. Ifthe sensor inputs and the ignition coils are within specification, and the wiring is connected and functioning properly, the PCM could be faulty. >The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has a fault memory to monitor the operation of the system. The PCM has the ability to recognize a problem in the system, and can prioritize the problem. If the problem is severe enough, the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) can be turned on by the PCM to indicate the problem is compromising the efficient and optimal operation of the engine. The PCM uses its fault memory to store fault codes that can be accessed using specially designed test equipment which due to its cost and the training required to use this equipment is beyond the scope of this manual. This test equipment is used to read the stored faults, as well as erase the faults from the PCM memory once a repair is completed.

Ignition Coil Pack TESTING E36 Models

EXCEPT M44 ENGINE > See Figures 5 and 6 1. Refer to the spark plug removal procedures in Section 1 and remove the valve cover trim cover. On M42 engines, remove the coil pack cover. 2. With the ignition OFF , disconnect the harness connector by releasing the locking bar and pulling off the connector. 3. Check the primary resistance between the two outside terminals (terminals 1 and 15) of the coil connector socket. 4. The resistance should be approximately 0.4-0.8 ohms. Replace the coil if out of specification. The secondary side of the coil cannot be checked due to the design of the coil.

84272018

Fig. 5 Removing the coil pack cover—M42 engine shown

Fig. 6 Coil pack cylinder assignments— M42 engine shown

M44 ENGINE

Fig. 4 The distributorless ignition system uses a separate ignition coil for each cylinder. The coil packs are located under

a trim cover—M50 engine shown

The programmed ignition system provides an adaptive, optimal ignition timing that is controlled the by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), based on input sensor information. This system cannot be adjusted.

» See Figures 7 and 8 The M44 engine uses a combined ignition coil assembly. The coil assembly iscomprised offour

separate ignition coils,

88

1. With the ignition OFF,

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

2-5

M44 ENGINES » See Figures 9, 10, 11 and 12 The M44 engine uses a combined ignition coil assembly. The coil assembly is comprised of four separate ignition coils and is replaced as a unit. 1. With the ignition OFF , disconnect the harness from the ignition coil assembly by turning the knurled electrical connector counterclockwise and carefully pulling off the connector. 2. Remove the ignition coil bracket mounting fasteners and remove the combined coil assem90961P33

Fig. 7 Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance between the specified pins

bly. 3. Remove the combined coil cover. 4. Remove the high tension wires from the ignition coil(s).

90962P10

Fig. 12 Clean the grounding contact and mounting bracket of the coil pack with a wire brush before installing

5. Installation is the reverseofthe removal procedure,

6- CYLINDER ENGINES Please refer to the spark plug removal procedures in Section 1 for details pertaining to individual ignition coil removal.

Ignition Module

Fig. 8 The terminal pins are numbered, but difficult to see. An enhanced photo really helps. Note the absence of a pin terminal 4

ness from the ignition coil assembly by turning the knurled electrical connector counterclockwise and carefully pulling off the connector. 2. Refer to the illustration of the primary electrical connector and check the primary resistance between the terminals for each individual coil (terminals 1 and 15) as follows: ¢ Coil 1: Pin 1i—Pin 2 ¢ Coil 2: Pin6—Pin 2 ¢ Coil 3: Pin 7—Pin 2 © Coil 4: Pin 5—Pin 2 3. The resistance should be approximately 0.4-0.8 ohms. Replace the coil assembly if out of specification. The secondary side of the coil cannot be checked due to the design of the coil.

turning the electrical connector lock-ring counterclockwise

For information pertaining to the removal and replacement of the Engine Control Module (ECM) please refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4

Top Dead Center Sensors Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4 for information on servicing the Top Dead Center (TDC) sensors.

Cylinder Position Sensor 90961P43

Fig. 10 Once the combined ignition coil cover is removed, the high tension wires can be disconnected

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

' M42 ENGINES

_ 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal proLad

Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4 for information on servicing the Cylinder Position (CKP) sensor.

Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4 for information on servicing the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.

E36 Models

1. With the ignition OFF, remove the ignition coil cover. 2. Label the wiring to ensure proper reassembly. 3. Detach the harness connector by releasing the locking bar and pulling off the connector. 4. Remove the high tension wires from the ignition coil(s). 5. Remove the ignition coil mounting fasteners, then remove the coils.

>The Ignition Control Module (ICM) on the E36 models is incorporated into each individual ignition coil, and cannot be replaced separately from the ignition coil. If an ICM failure occurs, the ignition coil assembly must be replaced.

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4 for information on servicing the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. 90961P42

Fig. 11 Make sure to label the plug wires before removal

Refer to Electronic Engine Controls in Section 4 for information on servicing the Knock Sensor (KS)

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ENGINE ELECTRICAL

FIRING ORDERS > See Figures 13, 14, 15 and 16 >To avoid confusion, always remove and label the wires one at a time, for replacement.

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Fig. 13 M20 engine Firing Order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise

Fig. 14 $14 Engine Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Distributor Rotation: Clockwise

© © ®© © OOo FRONT 84272016

Fig. 15 E36 4-Cylinder Engines Firing Order: 1-3-4-2 Distributorless Ignition

Fig. 16 E36 6-Cylinder Engines Firing Order: 1-5-3-6-2-4 Distributorless Ignition

CHARGING SYSTEM General Information The charging system is a 12 volt Direct Current (DC) negative (-) ground system. The system consists of an alternator with an internal voltage regulator, an alternator belt, a charging system light, and a battery. The alternator is mounted onto the engine and the alternator rotor is supported by two sealed bearings within the alternator housing. One end of the alternator rotor has two electrical contacts called slip rings, and the other end of the rotor’s shaft protrudes through the alternator housing and has a pulley attached to it. The rotor shaft's pulley is beltdriven by another pulley that is attached to the engine's crankshaft. The slip rings are electrical contacts that allow voltage to be supplied to the rotor’s electrical windings while it spins. The voltage is supplied to the two slip rings via a pair of spring loaded brushes. The brushes are soft enough to not damage the slip tings, yet are made of a material that will conduct an ~~ electrical current. The rotor has an electrical winding _ thatis surrounded by a series of metal fingers.

The initial voltage is supplied to the rotor from the battery and is called the excitation current. This electrical current is used to energize the field to begin the generation of electricity. When the electrical current is supplied to the rotor field winding via the slip rings, the rotor becomes an electromagnet. The rotor is surrounded by a series of small electrical coils called the stator assembly. When the rotor spins, the magnetic field from the rotor is absorbed by the electrical coils of the stator assembly. This . generates a series of positive and negative electrical pulses in the coils of the stator assembly creating an Alternating Current (AC) and AC voltage. Because the vehicle's battery, electrical system and the electrical accessories are DC voltage, the AC voltage must be converted to DC voltage. The alternating current from the stator assembly is channeled through a series of diodes that are grouped together to form a component known as the rectifier. A diode is essentially a one way valve, and designed to allow current to pass in only one

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direction. The collection of diodes that form the rectifier assembly allows the current to flowinone ~ direction, changing the eas Sea, from ate

nating current (AC voltage) to direct current (DC voltage). Once the alternator rotor begins to rotate and starts to generate electricity, the excitation current comes from its own output, rather than from the battery, although the battery remains as part of the electrical circuit. Because the electrical needs of the vehicle change depending on operating conditions, the alternator’s output needs to be regulated. To accomplish this, a voltage regulator is used to control the alternator’s output. To do this, the regulator controls the voltage to the alternator rotor, which regulates the alternator’s output by controlling the strength of the magnetic field. The more voltage the rotor receives, the stronger the magnetic field, and the more electrical current the alternator provides. Conversely, the less voltage the rotor receives, the weaker the magnetic field, and the less electrical current the alternator provides.

The alternator is used to maintain thecharge of

the battery and to power the components ofthe electrical system. When theignit

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panel, and to the voltage regulator in the alternator. When the alternator rotor is not moving, the alternator is not producing an electrical current, and the alternator warning light remains on. When the engine is started, the alternator rotor begins to rotate. As the alternator rotor rotates, the alternator generates an electrical current and turns the alternator light off. When the engine is running, the alternator produces an electrical current that is used to replenish the battery, which is drained slightly during startup, and to power the electrical components of the vehicle. Typical alternator component failures include: ¢ Worn brushes e Failed diode(s) e A failed voltage regulator Symptoms of worn brushes include: e Insufficient voltage output ¢ Loss of electrical power while driving Symptoms of a failed diode include: ¢ Insufficient amperage output ¢ Battery loses charge when not driving Symptoms of a failed voltage regulator include: e Insufficient voltage output e Loss of electrical power while driving e Excessive voltage output ¢ Battery fluid loss e Battery overheating ¢ Warped battery casings

s Alternator Precautions Several precautions must be observed with alternator equipped vehicles to avoid damage to the unit. e ALWAYS observe proper polarity of the battery connections. Use extreme care when jump starting the car. Reversing the battery connections may cause the battery to explode, or result in damage to the one-way rectifiers. e ALWAYS remove the battery or, at least, disconnect the cables while charging to avoid damaging the alternator. - e ALWAYS match and/or consider the polarity of the battery, alternator and regulator before making any electrical connections within the system. e ALWAYS disconnect the battery ground terminal while repairing or replacing any electrical components. e NEVER use a fast battery charger to jump start a vehicle with a dead battery. ¢ NEVER attempt to polarize an alternator. ¢ NEVER use test lights of more than 12 volts when checking diode continuity. © NEVER ground or short out the alternator or regulator terminals. ¢ NEVER separate the alternator on an open circuit. Make sure all connections within the circuit ~ are clean and tight. e NEVER use arc welding equipment on the car

with the battery cable, PCM or alternator connected. e NEVER operate the alternator with any of its or the battery's lead wires disconnected. __e NEVER subject the alternator to excessive Seeorst uae (for instance, steam cleaning the

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tery to a. good engine ground on the vehicle being started.

Alternator

TESTING Voltage Drop Test These tests will show the amount of voltage drop across the alternator output wire from the

alternator output (B+) terminal to the battery positive post. They will also show the amount of voltage drop from the ground (-) terminal on the alternator.

A voltmeter with a 0-18 volt DC scale should be used for these tests. By repositioning the voltmeter test leads, the point of high resistance (voltage drop) can easily be found. Test points on the alternator can be reached by either removing the air Cleaner housing or below by raising the vehicle. 1. Before starting the test, make sure the battery is in good condition and is fully charged. Check the conditions of the battery cables. 2. Start the engine, let it warm up to normal operating temperatures, then turn the engine OFF. 3. Connect an engine tachometer, following the manufacturer's directions. 4. Make sure the parking brake is fully engaged. 5. Start the engine, then place the blower on HIGH, and turn on the high beam headlamps and interior lamps. 6. Bring the engine speed up to 2,400 rpm and hold it there. 7. To test the ground (-) circuitry, perform the following: a. Touch the negative lead of the voltmeter directly to the positive battery terminal. b. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the B+ output terminal stud on the alternator (NOT the terminal mounting nut). The voltage should be no higher than 0.6 volts. If the voltage is higher than 0.6 volts, touch the test lead to the terminal mounting stud nut, and then to the wiring connector. If the voltage is now below 0.6 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connections at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed at each ground (-) connection in the circuit to locate the excessive resistance. 8. To test the positive (+) circuitry, perform the following: a. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter directly to the negative battery terminal. b. Touch the negative lead of the voltmeter to the ground terminal stud on the alternator case (NOT the terminal mounting nut). The voltage should be no higher than 0.3 volts. If the voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, touch the test lead to the terminal mounting stud nut, and then to the wiring connector. If the voltage is now below 0.3 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connections at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed “at each positive (+) connection in the circuit to

locate the excessive resistance. 9. This test can also be performed between the alternator case and the engine. If the test voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, check for corrosion at the alternator mounting points or loose alternator

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Output Voltage Test

> See Figures 17, 18 and 19 Most automotive repair facilities purchase specialized test equipment to check a vehicle's charging system. The test equipment is expensive, however it is fast and easy to use and able to pinpoint the Q ause of the problem. This type of test equipment is a good investment for a repair shop, however an alternator can be checked with the use of a reasonably priced volt-ohm (VOM) meter as discussed in Section 1. A volt/amp tester such as the VAT-40 or an equivalent, which is equipped with a battery load control (carbon pile rheostat), full field tester and an inductive-type pickup clamp (ammeter probe) can be used to test an alternator’s diodes, amperage and voltage output following the directions supplied with the tester. This information is useful for someone who may take it upon themselves to open up an alternator and replace the defective internal part. Almost all alternators used in today’s vehicles have internal voltage regulators. Thus when replacing the alternator the voltage regulator no longer must be purchased separately. Because the voltage regulators have no moving parts and are electronically controlled, the only wear related item found in an alternator would be the brushes. More often than not, the alternator brushes are part of the voltage regulator, so in order to replace the brushes, the voltage regulator must be replaced. The only drawback is that at times the cost of the voltage regulator/brush assembly may be almost as expensive as the alternator itself. Therefore it makes more sense to replace the alternator assembly rather than just one failed component. One common symptom of a failed voltage regulator/brush assembly is that the battery warning light does not operate when the ignition switch is first turned to the ON position without the engine being started. The battery must be disconnected and the alternator removed to replace the voltage regulator. To test the voltage output of the alternator, use a VOM meter capable or reading at least 20 Volts DC and proceed as follows: 1. Before starting the test, make sure the battery is in good condition and is fully charged. Check the conditions of the battery cables. 2. Perform the voltage drop test to ensure clean and tight alternator/battery electrical connections.

LOAD ADJUSTER (CARBON PILE)

FULL FIELD TESTER LEAD (BLU) VOLTMETER NEGATIVE LEAD (BLK) VOLTMETER POS!

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Fig. 17 Typical charging system ede voltage test connections

2-8

ENGINE ELECTRICAL LOAD ADJUSTER (CARBON PILE)

FULL FIELD TESTER LEAD (BLU) VOLTMETER NEGATIVE LEAD (BLK)

VOLTMETER POSITIVE LEAD (RED)

SELECTOR

SWITCH INDUCTIVE pick.up _|NEGATIVE TESTER (GRN)

CABLE (BLK)

POSITIVE TESTER CABLE (RED) 79240G09

Fig. 18 VAT-40 charging system tester. Similar testers are available that perform

as well

FULL FIELD ACCESS HOLE END COVER REGULATOR

Located inside the end cover

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Fig. 19 A rear view of the alternator showing the regulator, end cover and full field access hole locations

3. Be sure the alternator drive belt is properly tensioned, as outlined in Section 1. 4. Set the parking brake, then place the transmission in Park or Neutral. 5. Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature. 6. Connect the VOM meter to the battery following the proper polarity for the leads. Connect the positive lead to the positive terminal of the battery and attach the negative lead of the VOM meter to the negative terminal of the battery or a known good ground on the vehicle. e>On vehicles with a trunk mounted battery, the auxiliary jump connectors can be use in the engine compartment. For details see the jump starting procedures in Section 1.

7. Raise the engine speed to 1,500 rpm and check the voltage. The voltage should be 13.5-14.2 Volts. If the voltage is not within specification replace the alternator. elf the voltage exceeds 14.2 Volts the battery could be damaged. Higher than recommended charging system voltages can warp the battery casing, boil the fluid out of the battery, and warp the internal plates. If battery damage has occurred, neutralize the battery mounting area with a 5%o solution of baking soda and water, _ then replace the battery.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models e>When the battery is disconnected the radio code, on-board computer and clock settings will be lost. The radio code should be obtained before disconnecting the battery or radio. Once the battery has been reconnected, the radio will not function unless the code is keyed in.

1. If needed, read the stored fault memories from the contro! module. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 4. Disconnect the wires from the rear of the alternator, marking them for installation. Note the presence of a ground wire on some vehicles. On the 325i and M3 models, it may be easier to remove the alternator mounting bolts first, then turn it, and remove the wires. 5. If equipped with an alternator cooling duct, loosen the hose clamp on the alternator and remove the cooling duct. 6. Loosen the lock bolt, turn the tensioning bolt to loosen the belt tension and remove the belt. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the alternator. To install: 7. Install the alternator in position and secure with the retaining bolts. 8. The tensioning bolt on the front of the alternator must be turned so as to tension the belt, using a torque wrench, until the torque is approximately 60 inch Ibs. (7 Nm). Then, hold the adjustment nut with one wrench while tightening the locknut at the rear of the unit. Make sure, if the unit has a ground wire on the alternator, it has been reconnected as removed 9. Install the fan and cowl. 10. Install the air cleaner and connect the hoses as necessary. 11. Install the alternator cooling duct, then reconnect the wires to the alternator. 12. The balance of the installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, making sure to re-code the radio as necessary and tighten the alternator fasteners, as follows: e M6 fasteners: 61 inch Ibs. (7 Nm) e M8 fasteners: 115 inch Ibs. (13 Nm) e Alternator mounting fasteners: 31 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm) e Alternator pulley nut (V-belt type): 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) e Alternator pulley nut (ribbed drive belt type): 51 ft. Ibs. (70 Nm)

radio. Once the battery has been reconnected, the radio will not function unless the code is keyed in.

1. If needed, read the stored fault memories from the control module. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Rotate the electrical connector at the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor counterclockwise and carefully pull the connector off. 5. Remove the intake air filter upper housing complete with the air-flow sensor. 6. On M42 engines: a. Loosen the alternator belt adjustment fasteners and remove the drive belt. For specific details, refer to Section 1. b. Disconnect the alternator-to-body ground strap at the body. 7. On M44 engines: a. Remove the alternator drive belt. For specific details, refer to Section 1. b. Remove the upper belt roller to access the upper alternator mounting bolt. 8. Remove the wire cover cap and disconnect the wires at the alternator. 9. Remove the alternator mounting bolts and remove the alternator assembly. To install: 10. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure making sure to re-code the radio as necessary and tighten the alternator fasteners, as follows: e M6 fasteners: 61 inch Ibs. (7 Nm) e M8 fasteners: 115 inch Ibs. (13 Nm) e Alternator mounting fasteners: 31 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm) e Alternator pulley nut (V-belt type): 33 ft. Ibs. (45 Nm) e Alternator pulley nut (ribbed drive belt type): 51 ft. Ibs. (70 Nm) 6-CYLINDER ENGINES

» See Figures 25 and 26

->When the battery is disconnected the radio code, on-board computer and clock settings will be lost. The radio code should be

E36 Models

4-CYLINDER ENGINES

» See Figures 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24 e>When the battery is disconnected the radio code, on-board computer and clock settings will be lost. The radio code should be obtained before disconnecting the battery or

Fig. 20 A top side view of the alternator installed on M42 engines

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

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90962P22

Fig. 21 A suitable prytool is used to remove the guide pulley dust cover—M44

engine shown

90962P19

Fig. 24 Remove the two alternator mounting bolts and the alternator is ready to remove

obtained before disconnecting the battery or radio. Once the battery has been reconnected, the radio will not function unless the code is keyed in. 1. If needed, read the stored fault memories from the control module.

2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

Fig. 22 The guide pulley must be removed to access the top alternator mounting bolt

3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the intake air filter housing as follows: a. Rotate the electrical connector at the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor counterclockwise and carefully pull the connector off. b. Loosen the hose clamp at the intake manifold side of the 90° air intake bellows and remove the hose from the throttle plate. c. Loosen the air filter mounting fasteners at their support brackets. d. Remove the air filter housing complete with the MAF sensor and the 90° air intake bellows. If necessary, release the clips between the sensor and the air filter housing and remove separately.

>The fan clutch assembly has left hand threads! Loosen by turning clockwise. 5. Remove the radiator cooling fan and fan clutch assembly by supporting the water pump pulley with Tool No. 11 5 030 or its equivalent and loosen the fan clutch by turning it clockwise with Tool No. 11 5 040 or its equivalent. 6. If equipped with air conditioning, and additional space is desired, remove the air conditioner

i Fig. 25The engine cooling fan is removed by holding the drive pul-

| ley and rotating the fan/fan clutch assembly clockwise

Fig. 23 Once the guide pulley is removed, the top alternator mounting bolt is easy to

access

drive belt. For specific details please refer to Section 1. 7. Remove the alternator belt as outlined in

Section 1. 8. If equipped, remove the vent hose from the rear of the alternator. 9. Remove the alternator wire terminal protective cap from the back of the alternator. 10. Label and remove the wires from the alter-

nator. 11. If equipped, remove the belt guide roller from the top of the alternator. 12. While supporting the alternator, remove the alternator mounting fasteners, then remove the alternator.

13. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure making sure to re-code the radio as necessary and tighten the alternator fasteners, as follows: ¢ M6 fasteners: 61 inch Ibs. (7 Nm) ¢ M8 fasteners: 115 inch Ibs. (13 Nm) e Alternator mounting fasteners: 31 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm) ¢ Alternator pulley nut (V-belt type): 33 ft. Ibs. (45 Nm) e Alternator pulley nut (ribbed drive belt type): 51 ft. Ibs. (70 Nm)

Fig. 26 When installing the belt idler tensioner roller, make sure the ; ¥ alignment tab is seated into the slot—M50 engine shown

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ENGINE ELECTRICAL

STARTING SYSTEM General Information » See Figure 27 The battery and starter motor are linked by very heavy gauge electrical cables designed to minimize resistance to the flow of current. Generally, the major power supply cable that leaves the battery goes directly to the starter, while other electrical system needs are supplied by a smaller gauge cable. During starter operation, the positive (+) battery power flows from the battery to the starter solenoid, and the starter is grounded through the engine which is grounded by the battery's negative ground strap. The starter is a specially designed, direct current electric motor capable of producing a great amount of power for its size. What allows the motor to produce a great deal of power is its tremendous rotating speed. It drives the engine through a tiny pinion gear (attached to the starter’s armature), that drives the very large flywheel ring gear at a greatly reduced speed. Another factor allowing it to produce so much power is that only intermittent operation is required of it. Thus, little allowance for air circulation is necessary, and the windings can be built into a very small space. The starter solenoid is an electromagnetic device that is triggered by the small current supplied by the start circuit of the ignition switch. This electromagnetic action moves a plunger that mechanically engages the starter gear and closes the high amperage switch connecting the starter to the battery. The starting switch circuit is part of the ignition switch. The starting circuit wiring includes a Safety circuit, such as a neutral safety switch, or clutch pedal switch, that prevents the engine from

being started with the transmission engaged. Also included in the starting circuit is the wiring necessary to connect these in series with the starter solenoid. The pinion, a small gear, is mounted to a oneway drive clutch. This clutch is splined to the starter armature shaft. When the ignition switch is moved to the START position, the solenoid plunger slides the pinion toward the flywheel ring gear via a

collar and spring. If the teeth on the pinion and flywheel match properly, the pinion will engage the flywheel immediately. If the gear teeth butt one another, the spring will be compressed and will force the gears to mesh as soon as the starter turns far enough to allow them to do so. As the solenoid plunger reaches the end of its travel, it closes the contacts that connect the battery to the starter, and then the engine is cranked. As soon as the engine starts, the flywheel ring gear begins turning fast enough to drive the pinion at an extremely high rate of speed. At this point, the one-way clutch begins allowing the pinion to spin faster than the starter shaft so that the starter will not operate at excessive speed. When the ignition switch is released from the start position, the solenoid is de-energized, and a spring pulls the gear out of mesh, interrupting the current flow to the starter. Some starters employ a separate relay, mounted away from the starter, to switch the motor and solenoid current on and off. The relay replaces the solenoid electrical switch, but does not eliminate the need for a solenoid mounted on the starter used to mechanically engage the starter drive gears. The relay is used to reduce the amount of current the start position of the ignition switch must carry.

. Spring ring Screw Support Cover cap Lockwasher

Cap mounting screw Hex nut . Lockwasher . Washer OCONHRARWNS . Bearing shell . Collector bearing . Rubber bushing . Brush support plate . Armature . Insulating strip . Excitation winding . Winding mounting screw . Body screw . Brush . Brush spring . Lockwasher . Nut . Solenoid . Pivot bolt . Solenoid mounting screw . Starter nose with bearing

. Screw . Lockwasher

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. . . . . . .

Hex nut Bearing shell Fork Stop face ring Bearing shell Pinion gear Overrunning clutch

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. 27 Exploded view of a typical Bosch starter

Never compromise personal safety when working with a vehicle’s electrical system. The starter motor assembly consists of two basic components, the starter motor and the starter relay. Some manufacturers prefer to separate the relay from the starter motor, others prefer to combine the two into one unit. The Bosch® starter motor found on BMW models is a combined unit. The relay used on these starter motor assemblies actually serves two purposes. The relay is used to: e Actas a switch to complete a high amperage electrical circuit between the battery and the starter motor. e Engage the starter motor pinion gear with the flywheel ring gear. The two most common symptoms of a combination starter motor failure are: e Nothing happens when the ignition key is turned to START. e Aclicking noise is heard when the ignition key is turned to START. 1. Assuming the battery is fully charged and all of the battery cables are properly attached and their connections clean, if nothing happens when the key is turned to START most likely the starter motor solenoid has failed. In an emergency situation a remote starter switch could override the relay and allow the starter to function temporarily, 2. lf aclicking noise is heard, that’s an indication that the solenoid is engaging, but the electric motor portion of the starter motor has failed. In an emergency situation, sometimes the starter motor can be rapped sharply with a screwdriver or ham-

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mer handle which may startle the starter motor enough to function temporarily. If the starter motor operation is intermittent, check the operation of the ignition switch. If your starter motor is acting up, use the following steps to troubleshoot the cause and replace the starter motor as necessary. A starter motor replacement is much easier to do in an evening after work or on a day off. It's not something you'll want to be doing on the side of the road.

TESTING Testing Preparation >The air temperature should be between

59-100°F (15-38°C) before any testing. The starting system consists of an ignition switch, starter relay, neutral safety switch, wiring harness, battery, and a starter motor with an integral solenoid. These components form two separate circuits: a high amperage circuit that feeds the starter motor up to 300 or more amps, and a control circuit that operates on less than 20 amps. Before commencing with the starting system diagnostics, verify: e The battery posts and terminals are clean. ¢ The alternator drive belt tension and condition is correct. e The battery state-of-charge is correct. e The battery cable connections at the starter and engine block are clean and free from corrosion. e The wiring harness connectors and terminals are clean and free from corrosion. e Proper circuit grounding.

Starter Feed Circuit

+ CAUTION The ignition system must be disabled to prevent engine start while performing the following tests. 1. Connect a volt-ampere tester (multimeter) to the battery terminals. 2. Disable the ignition system. 3. Verify that all lights and accessories are off, and the transmission shift selector is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual). Set the parking brake. 4. Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the START position. Observe the volt-ampere tester: e lf the voltage reads above 9.6 volts, and the amperage draw reads above 250 amps, go to the starter feed circuit resistance test (following this test). e Ifthe voltage reads 12.4 volts or greater and the amperage reads 0-10 amps, refer to the starter solenoid and relay tests.

+ WARNING Do not overheat the starter motor or draw the battery voltage below 9.6 volts during cranking operations.

5. After thestarting system problems have e ——

verify the battery state of charge

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vehicle several times to assure the problem was corrected. Starter Feed Circuit Resistance

Before proceeding with this test, refer to the battery tests and starter feed circuit test. The following test will require a voltmeter, which is capable of accuracy to 0.1 volt.

*¢ CAUTION The ignition system must be disabled to prevent engine start while performing the following tests. 1. Disable the ignition system. 2. With all wiring harnesses and components (except for the coils) properly connected, perform the following: a. Connect the negative (-) lead of the voltmeter to the negative battery post, and the positive (+) lead to the negative (-) battery cable clamp. Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the START position. Observe the voltmeter. If the voltage is detected, correct the poor contact between the cable clamp and post. b. Connect the positive (+) lead of the voltmeter to the positive battery post, and the negative (-) to the positive battery cable clamp. Rotate and hold the ignition switch key in the START position. Observe the voltmeter. If voltage is detected, correct the poor contact between the cable clamp and post. c. Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to the negative (-) battery terminal, and positive lead to the engine block near the battery cable attaching point. Rotate and hold the ignition switch in the START position. If the voltage reads above 0.2 volt, correct the poor contact at ground cable attaching point. Ifthe voltage reading is still above 0.2 volt after correcting the poor contact, replace the negative ground cable with a new one. 3. Refer to removal and installation procedures to gain access to the starter motor and solenoid connections. Perform the following steps: a. Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead to the starter motor housing and the negative (-) lead to the negative battery terminal. Hold the ignition switch key in the START position. If the voltage reads above 0.2 volt, correct the poor: starter to engine ground. b. Connect the positive (+) voltmeter lead to the positive battery terminal, and the negative lead to the battery cable terminal on the starter solenoid. Rotate and hold the ignition key in the START position. If the voltage reads above 0.2 volt, correct poor contact at the battery cable to the solenoid connection. If the reading is still above 0.2 volt after correcting the poor contacts, replace the positive battery cable with a new one.

c. Ifthe resistance tests did not detect feed circuit failures, refer to the starter solenoid test. Starter Solenoid

ON VEHICLE TEST 1. Before testing, assure the parking brake is set, the transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), and the battery is fully charged and in

good condition.

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2. Connect a voltmeter from the small terminal (terminal 50) on the solenoid to ground. Turn the

ignition switch to the START position and test for battery voltage. If battery voltage is not found, inspect the ignition switch circuit. If battery voltage is found, proceed to next step. 3. Connect an ohmmeter between the battery negative post and the starter housing. The ohmmeter should read zero (0). If not, repair the faulty ground. 4. If both tests are performed and the solenoid still does not energize, replace the solenoid.

BENCH TEST 1. Note the radio security code and the radio presets. 2. Disconnect the battery negative cable then the positive cable. 3. Remove the starter from the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the field coil wire from the field coil terminal. 5. Check for continuity between the solenoid terminal and field coil terminal with a continuity tester. Continuity (resistance) should be present. 6. Check for continuity between the solenoid terminal and solenoid housing. Continuity should

be detected. If continuity is detected, the solenoid is good.

7. lf continuity is not detected in either test, the solenoid has an open circuit, is defective, and must be replaced. Starter/Ground Cable Test

When performing these tests, it is important that the voltmeter be connected to the terminals, not the cables themselves. Before testing, assure that the ignition control module (if equipped) is disconnected, the parking brake is set, the transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), and the battery is fully charged and in good condition. 1. Check voltage between the positive battery post and the center of the B+ terminal on the starter solenoid stud. 2. Check voltage between the negative battery post and the engine block. 3. Disconnect the ignition coil wire from the distributor cap and connect a suitable jumper wire between the coil cable and a good body ground. 4, Have an assistant crank the engine and measure voltage again. Voltage drop should not exceed 0.5 volts. 5. If voltage drop is greater than 0.5 volts, clean metal surfaces. Apply a thick layer of silicone grease. Install a new cadmium plated bolt and star washer on the battery terminal and a new brass nut on the starter solenoid. Retest and replace cable not within specifications.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The starter motor on some models is very difficult to see from the top of engine compartment as it is covered by the intake manifold. On these models, without removing the intake manifold, the starter motor must be removed from underneath the vehicle. Because the starter motor mounting bolts — are not easy to access, a long extension with a unim

versal joint mounted on a proper sized socket could be used. A three foot transmission extension is

2-12

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

commercially available from tool vendors that has a ¥e inch drive of the driven end and 1% inch drive on the drive end. If used with a non-binding impact universal joint and a proper fitting impact socket, the starter motor fasteners can be removed from underneath the vehicle. Once the starter motor fasteners are removed, the starter motor may have to be moved side-to-side several times to loosen the dowel pin if it has corroded in place. e>When the battery is disconnected, the radio code, on-board computer and clock settings will be lost. The radio code should be obtained before disconnecting the battery or radio. Once the battery has been reconnected, the radio will not function unless the code is keyed in.

$14 And M20 Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the intake manifold assembly. Drain the coolant and disconnect the coolant return pipe to allow the starter to be removed from the engine compartment. 3. Disconnect the wires from the solenoid after noting their locations. 4. Remove the starter mounting fasteners at the bell housing. A curved-shaped (horseshoe) wrench may be necessary to access the top mounting fastener. 5. Remove the rear mounting bracket and remove the starter. 6. Visually inspect the starter pinion and ring gears for any signs of damage. To install: 7. Install the starter and tighten the mounting nuts and bolts, as follows: a. Starter motor electrical terminal fastener torque specifications: e M5 terminal fasteners: 44 inch Ibs. (5 Nm) e M6 terminal fasteners: 53 inch Ibs. (6 Nm) ¢ M8 terminal fasteners: 115 inch Ibs. (13 Nm) . Starter motor mounting fasteners: 2Ge @ Hex head bolts: 36 ft. Ibs. (49 Nm) Torx® bolts: 32 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm) 8. Connect the wires to the original locations on the solenoid. 9. Connect the coolant return line. 10. Fill and bleed the cooling system. 11. Install the intake manifold assembly.

6. The following two procedures can be performed working from above or from underneath the vehicle after the vehicle is raised and safely supported: a. Label and remove the wires from the starter motor solenoid. b. Remove the top starter motor mounting bolt. 7. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 8. Place a suitable drain pan below the fuel lines. Label, then carefully remove the fuel lines 9. If not performed from above: a. Label and remove the wires from the starter motor solenoid. b. Remove the top starter motor mounting bolt. 10. Remove the lower starter motor mounting bolt. 11. Move the starter motor assembly out and downward, then rotate counterclockwise to remove, taking care not to damage the electrical leads. 12. Visually inspect the starter pinion and ring gears for any signs of damage. 13. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure making sure to re-code the radio as necessary and tighten the retainer as follows: e Mb terminal fasteners: 44 inch Ibs. (5 Nm) e M6 terminal fasteners: 53 inch Ibs. (6 Nm) e M8 terminal fasteners: 115 inch Ibs. (13 Nm)

e Hex head bolts: 36 ft. Ibs. (49 Nm) e Torx® bolts: 32 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm)

Starter dowel pin

Starter fasteners. paces

Fig. 28 A view of the starter motor mounting fasteners and dowel pin. The mounting bolts are threaded into the starter motor

E36 Six Cylinder Engines

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MODELS 1. If needed, read the stored fault memories from the contro! module.

2. Set the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4, Remove the climate control air intake duct at the rear of the engine compartment as follows: a. Release the grille clips at the rear and lift the grille upward from the rubber seal, then remove the seal. b. Remove the two self-tapping Phillips screws from inside the duct to release the electrical harness housing. c. Press the electrical housing downward to expose and remove the two hex head self-tapping screws on each side of the duct and lift the duct up and out of the engine compartment. 5. Remove the intake manifold trim and valve cover trim covers. 6. Detach the ignition coil electrical connectors and ground straps, label for reinstallation and place aside. 7. Remove the two fasteners that secure the fuel injection electrical connector harness to the rail. Remove the harness and carefully place aside toward the back of the engine compartment behind the right side strut tower. 8. Remove the intake manifold. Please refer to Section 3 for details. 9. Remove the electrical leads from the starter motor and place aside. 10. Remove the starter motor mounting fasteners at the transmission bell housing, then remove the two mounting nuts at the L-shaped mounting bracket. 11. Loosen the L-shaped bracket to engine block mounting bolt slightly, then remove the bolt while supporting the starter motor. 12. Remove the bracket, then lift the starter motor upward away from the engine. 13. Visually inspect the starter pinion and ring gears for any signs of damage. 14. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure making sure to properly torque the mounting fasteners and re-code the radio as necessary: e M65 terminal fasteners:44 inch Ibs. (5 Nm)

¢ M6 terminal fasteners: 53 inch Ibs. (6 Nm) ¢ M8 terminal fasteners: 115 InchIbs. (13 Nm)

Hex head bolts: 36 ft. Ibs. (49 Nm) Torx® bolts: 32 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm)

12. Connect the negative battery terminal. 13. Re-code the radio as necessary.

MANUAL TRANSMISSION MODELS

M42 and M44 Engines

1. If needed, read the stored fault memories

> See Figures 28 and 29

from the control module. ; 2. Set the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. On 1992-95 325 models with the M50 engine, remove the climate control airintake duct at

1. If needed, read the stored fault memories from the control module. _ 2. Relieve the residual fuel system pressure.

For details, refer to Section 5. 3. Set the ignition switch to the OFF position. hed 4. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 5, Remove the mounting fastener for the dipyy‘stick guide tube, remove the guide tube and O-ring and plug the hole in the oil pan with a suitable shop _-tov el. ;

nt sate neTorx®fabiners used to mount the _ star or sel ae withan E-12 sized ee \ ore Ss

the rear of the engine compartment as follows: ,

Fig. 29 The starter motor mounting bolts are a different size than the transmission-

to-engine mountiny bol

ENGINE ELECTRICAL NE

WS

ESS

ST BEE

OBIE 5NEES YATES BN

ping screws on each side of the duct and lift the duct up and out of the engine compartment. 5. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 6. Remove the fasteners for the reinforcement mounted between the frame rails just behind the rear lower control arm bushing brackets. Mark the bar's direction for proper reinstallation and remove the bar. 7. Remove the fuel line cover located near the left side rear lower contro! arm bushing bracket. 8. Release the fuel lines and reverse light wiring from their routing brackets. 9. Note the routing of the starter motor electrical wires, remove the wire mounting nuts, and place the wires aside. 10. Remove the top and bottom starter motor to engine-transmission mounting fasteners. 11. Remove the two mounting nuts at the Lshaped mounting bracket.

TT PE ST AR

IE Pg

RR

FH TR Pk

Starter motor downward away from the engine. 14. Visually inspect the starter pinion and ring gears for any signs of damage. 15. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure making sure to properly torque the mounting fasteners and re-code the radio as necesSary.

¢ M65 terminal fasteners: 44 inch Ibs. (5 Nm) ¢ M6 terminal fasteners: 53 inch Ibs. (6 Nm) M8 terminal fasteners: 115 inch Ibs. (13 Nm) Hex head bolts: 36 ft. Ibs. (49 Nm) Torx® bolts: 32 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm)

SOLENOID OR RELAY REPLACEMENT Usually the starter and solenoid are replaced as an assembly. Finding a replacement solenoid is not as easy as finding a complete new or rebuilt starter. It's very possible the cost of the solenoid could be equal to the cost of a rebuilt starter motor. If the solenoid is worn, chances are that the starter motor

12. Loosen the L-shaped bracket to engine block mounting bolt slightly, then remove the bolt

while supporting the starter motor. 13. Remove the bracket, then carefully lower the

SF

2-13

TS

has an equivalent amount of wear. Replacing both as an assembly reduces the chance of having problems with the starter motor soon after replacing the solenoid. To replace the solenoid: 1. Remove the starter motor. 2. Disconnect the copper braid lead from the solenoid terminal. Be careful not to twist and pull on the lead as the nut is removed. 3. Remove the 2 or 3 screws at the nose end of the solenoid. A hand impact and Phillips bit may be

necessary. 4, Remove the solenoid. Use care to not lose the spring in the solenoid. To install: 5. Install the solenoid onto the body of the starter. Coat the threads of the screws with a suitable thread-locking compound and tighten. 6. Connect the copper braid lead to the solenoid terminal. Be careful not to twist or pull on the lead as the nut is tightened. 7. Install the solenoid and reinstall the starter motor assembly.

SENDING UNITS This section describes the operating principles of sending units, warning lights and gauges. Sensors that provide information to the Electronic Control Module (ECM) are cov-

ered in Section 4 of this manual. Instrument panels contain a number of indicating devices (gauges and warning lights). These devices are composed of two separate components. One is the sending unit, mounted on the engine or other remote part of the vehicle, and the other is the actual gauge or light in the instrument panel. Several types of sending units exist, however most can be characterized as being either a pressure sensitive or a heat sensitive sensor. Sensors used for warning lights, such as a low oil pressure warning light are essentially on/off sensors. These sensors function similar to an electrical switch. The switch is operated by pressure and is either on (closed) or off (open). In the case of an oil pressure switch, it is designed to warn of low oil pressure. Ifthe engine's oil pressure is within the manufacturer's recommendations, a properly working oil pressure switch will be in the open (off) position. Ifthe oil pressure drops below a safe operating pressure, the oil pressure switch is closed (on) and completes the electrical circuit for the low oil pressure warning light, and the warning light should be turned on in the instrument cluster. The other type of sensor used to monitor engine operating parameters is the variable resistance sensor. This sensor can be either pressure or temperature sensitive. For these sensors, as the pressure or temperature changes, the resistance in the sensor changes. This type of sensor is ideal for gauges and the Engine Control Module (ECM) because it can be used to monitor changes in pressure as in

an oil pressure gauge, or temperatures, as in an engine temperature gauge. The sensors used by BMW to monitor changes in temperature are the _ Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) type. A temperature sensor changes its resistance

based on the temperature of the sensor's probe. As temperature of the probe increases, the resis_ the if the sensor decreases. If a sensor's probe is ngine’s coolant passage, itcan be

used to by the coolant temperature gauge to transmit the engine's coolant temperature. Pressure type sending units convert liquid pressure into an electrical signal that is sent to the gauge or warning light. Resistance type sending units are most often used to measure temperature and use variable resistance to control the current flow back to the indicating device. Both types of sending units are connected in series to the gauge or warning light by a wire. When the ignition is turned ON, current flows from the battery to the gauge or warning light and on to the sending unit. The basic operation of a sending unit can be summarized as follows: [fit operates a light, it is most likely an on/off type sensor e fit operates a gauge it is most likely a variable resistor type sensor The basic wiring circuit for a gauge or warning light consists of: e Switched (ignition switch) battery positive (+) power to the gauge or warning light e Awire from the gauge or warning light wire to the sensor

e Awire from the sensor to ground (either chassis or supplied from instrument cluster) e>Some sensor receive their ground from the component they mounted on.

Sometimes a variable and an on/off sensor are combined, such as the case with an oil pressure

gauge with a warning light. The variable resistor portion of the sensor operates the gauge, the on/off portion of the sensor is used to operate the warning light, should the oil pressure fall below a safe level. . Coolant temperature sensor for gauge 2. Coolant temperature

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor

sensor for DME . Oil pressure switch 84273009

» See Figures 30 and 31 The engine coolant temperature gauge uses a heat sensitive sending unit to transmit an electrical signal to the gauge. The sending unit is a heat sensitive

i a

variable resistor that is located on or near to the cylinder head and threads into an engine coolant passage. The sensors are a Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) type. As the temperature increases, the electrical resistance of the sensor decreases. As the coolant temperature changes, so does the resis- — tance of the sensor. The gauge is calibrated within the operating range of the sensor and interprets the resistance value to display the coolant temperature. On E36 models, the coolant temperature sensor electrical connector consists of two wires. One wire is a ground from the instrument cluster, typically a brown wire with a yellow tracer, that supplies a ground signal to the sensor. The sensor, depending on its temperature, changes the resistance and supplies a signal to the gauge via a signal wire, which is typically a brown wire with a violet tracer. On E36 models prior to 1996, the fuel injection temperature sensor and coolant gauge temperature sensor were separate units. The coolant gauge sensor housing was typically black, where the fuel

eee

BDheaee Cer Deen AS

oi aaa

Fig. 30 Typical sensor locations found on the E36 models with Double Overhead

Camshaft (DOHC) engines—M42 engine shown

2-14

ENGINE ELECTRICAL front of the engine. The terminal positions 1 and 2 are used to operate the engine temperature gauge. Terminal positions 3 and 4 are used by the ECM/DME for the engine management system.

TESTING » See Figures 32 and 33 Diagnosing the engine coolant temperature sensor should be done in a step-by-step systematic order to determine the cause of the problem. Using a process of elimination technique allows the system operation to be fully verified. Fig. 31 The engine coolant temperature

sensor for E36 models is on the left side of the cylinder head toward the front— M44 engine shown

ECT Sensor Terminals 1-2

0

50

100

150

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge

The engine coolant temperature gauge uses a heat sensitive variable resistance grounding circuit to monitor the engine's coolant temperature. The coolant temperature information is conveyed to the instrument panel from the gauge temperature sending unit. To test the gauge and its related components, first test the gauge operation to make sure the problem is not in the gauge or gauge wiring. To test the gauge operation, perform the following procedures.

200

Engine Coolant Temperature °F === Resistance vs, Temperature 90962602

Fig. 32 This chart illustrates how rapidly the sensor’s resistance decreases as the coolant temperature increases

injection temperature sensor housing was blue.

a hs

Beginning with the 1996 models, the two sensors were combined into one unit. The sensor instead of being a two-wire version, was now comprised of four wires. The operation remained the same, however the value of the two sensors are different from one another and they should not be substituted for one another. Furthermore, the cylinder head castings on the 1996 and later E36 models have but one threaded hole for a sensor, unlike the previous models which had two. If installing an engine from a 1996 or later E36 into an earlier E36 model, the cylinder head does have an acceptable area that can be drilled and tapped for an additional sensor, however this procedure should be done by a qualified machinist to ensure a proper fit and avoid the chance of coolant leakage. The engine coolant temperature gauge sending unit locations are as follows: $14 engine: The coolant pipe above the exhaust side of the engine, just forward of the DME sensor e M20 engine: The brown sensor mounted on the thermostat housing. ~ e 1992-95 E36 models: Under the intake manifold near the front of the engine. The forward sensor (blue) is for the DME and the rear sensor (brown) is for the temperature gauge. e 1996-98 E36 models: The coolant tempera- « ture sensors for the gauge and the Engine Control Module (ECM) or DME control unit have been com-

= bined into one sensor that has 4 terminals. The near the

é sensor is located under the intake manifold

Fig. 34 The electrical connector of the 4 wire engine coolant temperature sensor uses terminals 1 and 2 for the coolant gauge—M44 connector shown

3. On 1996-98 models with the 4-wire electrical connector, locate the electrical terminal positions 1 and 2 of the electrical connector (refer to the illustration provided). On E36 M44 models, the terminal position 1 is the brown wire with the violet tracer and terminal position 2 is the brown wire with the yellow tracer, however this may differ from year to year and model to model. Obtain the listed resistors to achieve the following gauge results: e 8,200-10,500 Ohms: Temperature gauge should read cold (12-16°F (-9-11°C)) e 2,200-2,700 Ohms: Temperature gauge should read slightly warm (66—-70°F (19-21°C)) ¢ 500-400 Ohms: Temperature gauge should read normal operating temperature (174—-178°F (79-81°C)) ° e 300 Ohms: The gauge should read full hot.

+ CAUTION Failure to correctly identify and probe the correct terminals of the four wire electrical connector may cause severe damage to the control unit or other electrical components.

Fig. 33 The engine coolant sensor was removed from a known good running

engine and the resistance was documented as it changed with temperature

4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

GAUGES USING SINGLE WIRE SENSORS 1. Check the fuses and replace as necessary. 2. With the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the electrical connector from the gauge sending unit. 3. On models with a single wire coolant sensor, connect the wire for the temperature sensor electrical connector to a known good chassis ground. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for a brief moment. The coolant temperature gauge should register as full hot. 5. Ifthe gauge reads correctly, replace the sensor. Ifthe gauge does not register, check for a damaged or shorted wire, electrical connector or a faulty gauge.

GAUGES USING TWO OR FOUR WIRE SENSORS Check the fuses and replace as necessary.

2. With the ignition switch OFF, disconnect the electrical connector from the gauge sending unit. ete

be gee

Wen.

See Figure 36 The sensor can be tested using an ohmmeter either while installed or removed. Removal will require draining the engine coolant. Testing on the vehicle will require the use of suitable jumper leads due to the location of the sensor. The sensor's resistance decreases as the temperature increases (refer to the sensor resistance graph). The measured resistance change for the coolant gauge sensor (sensor terminals 1 and 2 of the M44 sensor) from cold (30°F (-1°C )) to hot (212°F (100°C) is in excess of 13,000 ohms! When testing the sensor monitor both the measured resistance and the behavior of the sensor as it is tested. Actual readings may differ by as much as plus or minus 10% due to variances of the test equipment (ohmmeter and temperature gauge), though equally important is the sensor's behavior during testing. As the temperature changes the sensors resistance value should also change. At no time should the resistor develop a completely open or closed circuit. Ifthe sensor's resistance does not change as the test temperature changes, or should the sensor develop an intermittent open or closed circuit during testing, replace the sensor.

90964P51

Fig. 36 The sensor terminals are labeled but difficult to see. This photo has been enhanced to illustrate the sensor terminal locations—M44 sensor shown

SENSOR INSTALLED

> See Figures 37, 38, 39 and 40 Testing the sensor in the vehicle requires the following: e An ohmmeter e Electrical test leads

OBDII ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR Terminal Position Temperature Ohms Resistance

14.2K 12.3K

6.93K

east

5.05K] |3.80K

50° 6.80K

ou

:

100° 3.18K] |2.91K

:

60° 6.67K 5.50K

2.52K

cc

2.20K 90992601

Fig. 35 Actual measured engine coolant temperature sensor resistance values. The coolant gauge uses terminal positions 1 and 2—M44 sensor shown

1. With a cold engine, measure the resistance at the sensor terminals for the coolant temperature gauge. Write the measurement down for future reference. On sensors with 4 wire connectors, make sure to probe the proper electrical terminals (Sensor positions 1 and 2).

2. Reconnect the sensor electrical connector and start the engine. Allow the engine to run for approximately 5 minutes, then turn the engine OFF. 3. Detach the sensor electrical connector and recheck the resistance of the sensor. 4. The resistance should have decreased from the previous measurement. 5. Reconnect the sensor electrical connector and start the engine again. Allow the engine to run for approximately 5 minutes, then turn the engine OFF. 6. Detach the sensor electrical connector and recheck the resistance of the sensor. 7. The resistance should decrease from the previous measurement, until the coolant temperature reaches its normal operating temperature, at which time the resistance should stabilize. If the sensor's resistance does not change as the engine's coolant temperature changes, or should the sensor develop an intermittent open or closed circuit during testing, replace the sensor. To test the sensor for accuracy, the use of a suitable model specific Data Scan Tool (DST) will be necessary, or the sensor must be removed and tested along side a known good sen-

90962P17

Fig. 37 Installing the test leads on the engine coolant sensor requires the use of

a needle nose pliers—M44 sensor shown

2-15

Fig. 38 The engine coolant sensor shown with the test leads installed—M44 sensor shown

sor and the resistance values compared. For comparison purposes, from a cold start, when tested on an E36 M44 model, the following results were obtained with an ambient air temperature of 65°F (18°C) with the engine idling. Five minutes of engine idling: e Temperature gauge reading: Y% of total sweep (see photo) e Sensor positions 1-2: 1,380 ohms e Sensor positions 3-4: 570 ohms Ten minutes of engine idling:

90962P16

Fig. 39 After five minutes of idling, the coolant gauge just crept out of the blue cool zone—E36 M44 model shown

90962P18

Fig. 40 After ten minutes of idling, the coolant gauge reached the mid point—E36 M44 model shown

2-16

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

¢ Temperature gauge reading: 2 of total sweep (see photo) e Sensor positions 1-2: 818 ohms e Sensor positions 3-4: 338 ohms Fifteen minutes of engine idling: e Temperature gauge reading: Between % and 24 of total sweep e Sensor positions 1-2: 402 ohms e Sensor positions 3-4: 170 ohms e Electric engine cooling fan switch: Switch closed (fan running)

monitor the water temperature and resistance change. As the temperature changes, so should the resistance. If at any time the sensor shows signs of erratic operation or no resistance at all, replace the sensor.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 42 thru 48

+ CAUTION Engine coolant can spray out causing severe burns if the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge sending unit is removed from a hot engine without allowing the engine to cool below 100°F (37°C) and draining the engine coolant into a sealable container first.

SENSOR REMOVED

> See Figure 41 Testing the sensor once it’s removed from the vehicle requires the following: e An ohmmeter A suitable hot plate Electrical test leads A safe working environment

Thermometer with a range of 30-212°F (1-100°C) e A suitable pan capable of containing water and being heated safely to boiling; 212°F (100°C). 1. With the probe of the sensor submerged in ice cold water, measure the resistance at the terminals for the coolant temperature gauge (on sensors with 4 wire connectors, terminals 1 and 2). Write both the water temperature and sensor resistance down for future reference. 2. Begin heating the water. The resistance should decrease as the water temperature increases. If the resistance did not decrease, the sensor is defective and should be replaced. To test the sensor for accuracy

1. Allow the engine to cool below 100°F (37°C) before working on the cooling system. 2. Note the anti-theft code and radio presets for the radio. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Locate the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) gauge sending unit as follows: e $14 engine: In the coolant pipe above the exhaust side of the engine. The rear sensor is for the DME and the forward sensor for the temperature gauge. M20: engine: On the coolant outlet on the left side of the engine at the junction of the coolant hoses where the coolant flows to the engine block. The DME coolant temperature sensor is the blue colored con-

nector body, the gauge temperature sensor is typically colored brown.

e 1992-95 E36 models: Under the intake manifold near the front of the engine. The forward sensor (blue) is for the DME and the rear sensor (brown) is for the temperature gauge. 1996-98 E36 models: The coolant temperature sensor for the gauge and the DME control unit is a combined 4 wire, 4 terminal sensor located under the intake manifold near the front of the engine. 5. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container. 6. If additional room is needed: a. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the crankcase breather hose. b. Remove the intake manifold support and pull the wire duct forward. 7. On E36 models with a composite spin on oil filter canister cap, remove the canister cap and oil filter and cover the oil filter housing with a clean shop towel. 8. Detach the gauge sending unit electrical connection. 9. Loosen the sensor using a crowfoot wrench, a suitable boxed end wrench or a % inch (22mm) thin-walled % inch drive 12 point deep well socket and breaker bar. To install: 10. Install the sensor with a new crush washer and tighten to 12.5-14 ft. Ibs. (17-19 Nm). 11. If removed: a. Replace the duct and attach the electrical connector in their original positions. Be sure the

90964P03 90964P38

Fig. 41 When the sensor was placed ina cup of ice water, the resistance increased

instantly

Fig. 42 A suitable prytool used carefully could remove the sensor wiring in an area where fingers couldn’t reach—M44 engine shown

90964P44

Fig. 43 This Craftsman® % inch drive thinwalled 12 point deep well socket worked perfectly for removing the coolant sensor

Bre

sym

Fig. 44 The Craftsman® socket slides over the sensor without risking damage to the electrical connector housing

90964P47

Fig. 45 The Craftsman® breaker bar and socket combination just cleared the intake manifold and. . .

Fig. 46. . . fit over the sensor with plenty of room to loosen or tighten it

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

90964P64-

Fig. 47 With the composite oil filter canister top and filter removed, once loosened, the sensor can be removed by hand

90964P65

Fig. 48 When installing the sensor, always use a new metal sealing (crush) washer

rubber grommets are installed correctly to prevent water from entering the duct. b. Install the intake manifold support and tighten to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). Install the air Cleaner assembly and the crankcase breather hose. 12. Top off and bleed the cooling system, reconnect the negative battery cable and re-code the radio as necessary. 13. Start the engine, allow it to reach operating temperature and check for leaks.

Oil Pressure Sender

TESTING The low oil pressure warning lamp should illuminate anytime the ignition switch is turned to the ON position without the engine running. When the engine is running, the light also illuminates if the engine oil pressure drops below 3-7 psi (0.2-0.5 bar). The oil pressure switch is a pressure sensitive on-off switch with one or two electrical terminals. The switch is calibrated such that if the oil pressure supplied to the switch falls below the minimum safe _ il pressure for the engine to operate, the pressure switch completes (closes) the circuit between its terminal positions 1 and 2 on two wire switches, or

_between the electrical lead and ground on single

Ite 0 two wire pressure switches, terminal position 2

sno switch is ground, and the terminal the pressure switch is connected to ofthe

@ light. Therefore if thepressure falls

below the pressure rating of the pressure switch, the pressure switch completes the ground circuit for the oil pressure warning light, and the low oil pressure warning light is activated. If the oil pressure light does not work, perform the following: 1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. 2. If the lamp does not light, check for a broken or disconnected wire around the engine and oil pressure sending unit switch. 3. If the wire at the connector checks out OK, carefully remove the connector from the switch. 4, On models with a single wire electrical terminal: a. Attach a jumper wire to a known good chassis ground and to the electrical connector. b. Ifthe lamp lights, replace the pressure sensor. 5. On models with a two wire electrical terminal: a. Attach a jumper wire to a known good chassis ground and position 1 of the electrical connector. b. If the lamp lights, place a jumper between position 1 and position 2 of the electrical connector. c. Ifthe lamp lights, replace the oil pressure sensor. d. If the lamp fails to light, check for an open circuit in the terminal 2 wiring. 6. If the light failed to operate during the above checks: e Check the wiring from the ignition switch to the bulb socket in the instrument cluster. e Check for a burned out lamp or disconnected socket in the instrument cluster. e Check for an open circuit in wiring between the bulb and the sensor. To diagnose an oil pressure light that stays on, perform the following: 7. Check the engine oil level and top off as necessary. If the engine was 2 or more quarts low on oil, test start the engine after topping off the oil level and recheck the oil pressure light operation. If the light stays on, stop the engine immediately and go to the next step. 8. Detach the electrical connector at the sending unit, then turn the ignition switch to the ON position. If the light remains on, check the wire from the sending unit electrical connector (terminal 1 on two wire systems) to the warning light for being shorted to ground and repair as necessary. 9. If the light stops working, turn the ignition switch OFF and go to the next step. 10. Replace the oil pressure sending switch with a known good switch. 11. Start the engine and check the oil pressure light operation. If the light stays on with the engine running, stop the engine immediately to avoid severe engine damage until the cause of the problem can be determined.

2-17

Possible causes for an oil pressure light to stay on are: e Pinched or grounded sensor wire ¢ Defective oil pressure sending unit

e Restricted or severely leaking oil filter e Excessive internal engine bearing clearance. e Insufficient or severely contaminated engine oil ¢ Blocked oil pump pickup screen or severely worn oil pump

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 49, 54, 55, 56 and 57 The oil pressure sensor switch on the E36 models has a spring loaded locking electrical connector that must be pressed down to allow the connector to be removed. Because the sensor is threaded into the back of the oil filter housing and tucked beneath the intake manifold and surrounded by the filter housing and the alternator, it may be difficult to reach by hand to remove the electrical connector. 1. Locate the oil pressure sending unit on the engine, as follows: e $14 engine: On the oil filter adapter housing. e M20 engine: On the engine block near the oil filter. e 1992-98 E36 models: On the oil filter housing, on the back side of the housing base. 2. Note the anti-theft code and radio presets for the radio. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. On E30 models: a. Disconnect the sending unit electrical harness. b. Using sensor socket, a crows foot, deepwell socket, or a wrench, loosen and remove the sending unit from the engine. 5. On E36 models: a. On 4-cylinder engines, remove the air intake duct from the filter housing to the throttle body assembly. b. On 6-cylinder engines, remover the air filter housing, intake duct and air duct hose for the alternator. c. Locate the oil pressure switch and note the location of the spring loaded locking bracket for the electrical connector. If the locking bracket is not facing up, use a 24mm (156 inch) open end wrench and loosen the oil pressure switch turning it until the locking bracket is facing up. d. Using a suitable prytool at least 12 inches (300mm) long, carefully press down on the locking bracket, then while holding the locking bracket down, use a similar prytool to carefully slide the electrical connector off of the sensor.

“2 CAUTION If the oil pressure light remains on while the engine is started, stop the engine immediately. Do not operate the engine until the cause of the problem can be determined. Operating an engine with low oil pressure will cause severe internal damage.

ECS as Ae ee) Pee

Do not use excessive force otherwise the connector or sensor may be damaged. e. Once the electrical connector is removed, remove the sensor.

To install: 6. Install a new sealing (crush) washer onto the sensor.

can

|

2-18

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

90961P67 84273014

Fig. 49 Engine oil pressure switch location and electrical connector—M42 engine shown

Fig. 50 The engine oil pressure switch threads into the filter housing—M44 engine shown

Fig. 51 On E36 models to remove the sensor’s electrical connector, if necessary, loosen the sensor with an open end wrench until the locking bracket is facing up, then...

|

P

90962P24

Fig. 52. . . press down on the locking bracket and while pressed down, carefully slide the connector off of the sensor—M44 engine shown

7. When installing the oil pressure sensor, torque the sensor as follows: ¢ M20/M42/M44/M50 engines: 29.5ft. Ibs. (40 Nm) e $14/S50 engines: 15ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) 8. On E36 models: a. Thread the sensor until the sealing washer just contacts the filter housing, but do not fully tighten. b. Turn the sensor as necessary until the electrical connector can be placed partially onto the sensor with the locking bracket facing up. c. Using a suitable prytool, carefully press the locking bracket down and slide the electrical connector onto the sensor until it is fully seated and release the locking bracket. d. Tighten the oil pressure sensor to the recommended torque. e. Install the remaining components removed to access the sensor.

9. On E30 models a. Install the sensor and tighten to the recommended torque.

90963P02

Fig. 53 The air intake duct must be removed to access the sensor on E36 models—M44 engine shown

b. Attach the electrical connector to the sending unit. 10. Check the engine oil level and top off as

necessary. 11. Connect the negative battery cable. 12. Enter the anti-theft code and radio presets for the radio. 13. Start the engine, allow it to reach operating temperature and check for leaks. 14. Check for proper operation.

Fuel Level Sender TESTING 1. Remove the fuel level sensor as outlined in this section. 2. Temporarily reconnect the electrical connectors for the fuel level sensor. 3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but DO NOT attempt to start the engine. 4. Move the sensor float up and down while

observing the fuel level gauge. The gauge should move as the float is moved. >The reserve contact is operational when the fuel volume is less than or equal to 1.7 gallons

(6.5 L)

On E36 models, the actual float resistance can be checked using an ohmmeter. Sensor resistance for E36 models produced before January 1995: e Left sensor, full tank: 245-255 ohms e Left sensor, empty tank: 8-12 ohms e Right sensor, full tank: 245-255 ohms e Right sensor, empty tank: 8-12 ohms Sensor resistance for E36 models except Z-3 produced after January 1995: e Left sensor, full tank: 235-244 ohms e Left sensor, empty tank: 8-12 ohms e Right sensor, full tank: 255-266 ohms e Right sensor, empty tank: 8-12 ohms Sensor resistance for Z-3 models: e Full tank: 480-520 ohms e Empty tank: 16-24 ohms

ENGINE ELECTRICAL a

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E36 Models except Z3

RIGHT SIDE E30 Models

> See Figure 54

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable 2. If the tank is full, remove some fuel to lower the level. 3. Remove the rear seat cushion and peel back the insulating sheet to access both covers. 4. Remove the screws from the covers and lift off. Pull of the electrical plug and disconnect the fuel lines. Catch any spilled fuel. 5. If equipped with a level sender held by 4 screws, remove the 4 screws from the sender portion of pickup assembly on the right side. Slowly remove the sender to allow the fuel to drain into the tank. If there are no screws, rotate the assembly counterclockwise and remove. 6. Rotate the left side sender assembly counterclockwise and pull out slowly. Allow the fuel to drain back into the tank. To install: 7. Replace the gasket and lower the left side sender assembly into the fuel tank. Rotate the assembly clockwise to lock into place. 8. Replace the gasket and lower the fuel level sender into the pickup assembly, if equipped. Replace the screws. 9. Connect the fuel lines and electrical connector. Replace the covers and the insulating sheet. Install the rear seat cushion. 10. Fill the fuel tank with at least 1% gallons (5.6 I)of fuel. 11. Reconnect the negative battery cable and check for normal operation and fluid leaks and repair as necessary.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable 2. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank if the level is high. It is best to do this procedure with little fuel in the tank. 3. Remove the rear seat cushion and pull off the cover on the right side to expose the top of the fuel pickup assembly. 4. Disconnect the plugs on the top of the assembly. The black connector is for the fuel pump. The white connector is for the fuel level sender. 5. Mark and disconnect the fuel lines. Using tool 16 1 020 or equivalent, rotate the mounting ring and remove the assembly. Press the level arm in slightly to make clearance when removing. To install:

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check for normal operation and fluid leaks and repair as necessary.

LEFT SIDE > See Figure 55 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable 2. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank if the level is high. It is best to do this procedure with little fuel in the tank. 3. Remove the rear seat cushion and pull off the cover on the left side to expose the top of the fuel pickup assembly. 4. Disconnect the plugs on the top of the assembly. 5. Mark and disconnect the fuel lines. Using

tool 16 1 020 or equivalent, rotate the mounting ring and remove the assembly. Press the level arm in slightly to make clearance when removing. To install:

>The entire unit must be replaced. The indi-

>The entire unit must be replaced. The indi-

vidual parts are not serviceable.

vidual parts are not serviceable.

6. Using a new seal and mounting ring, install the assembly. Move the unit from side to side to make sure the level sender is free and in the correct location. There is a rib on the flange that should align with a mark on the fuel tank. 7. Using Tool No. 16 1 020 or equivalent, torque the mounting ring to 27-31 ft. Ibs. (37-43 Nm). 8. Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connectors. Install the cover and rear seat. 9. Fill the fuel tank with at least 1% gallons (5.6 |)of fuel. 10. Reconnect the negative battery cable and

6. Using a new seal and mounting ring, install the assembly. Insert the fuel pickup and float into the tank. Press the center rod upwards and in the direction of the pickup. Release the rod so it sits in the depression on the bottom of the tank. There is a rib on the flange that should align with a mark on the fuel tank. 7. Using Tool No. 16 1 020 or equivalent, torque the mounting ring to 27-31 ft. Ibs. (37-43 Nm). 8. Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connector. Install the cover and rear seat. 9. Fill the fuel tank with at least 1 1% gallons (5.6 |)of fuel. 10. Reconnect the negative battery cable and check for normal operation and fluid leaks and repair as necessary.

1. Fuel pump

2. Fuel level sender

Z3 Models

3. Fuel tank flange 4. Support rod

The fuel sending unit is accessed by removing the passenger's (right side) seat and locating and opening the perforated section of carpet near the center console behind the seat back area. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable 2. Drain the fuel from the fuel tank into a suitable fuel recovery unit. 3. Remove the passenger's (right side) seat. 4. Locate the perforated area of the carpet near the center console in the area just behind the seat back. 5. Carefully cut the carpet along the perforations, which should form a large “C” shape and fold the carpet out of the way. 6. Remove the access panel mounting screws and remove the access panel. 7. Mark the fuel hoses to ensure proper reassembly and disconnect the hoses and electrical connector. 8. Loosen and remove the threaded retaining ring from the fuel tank and extract the fuel sending unit along with the fuel pump. The fuel lever arm may need to be moved toward the fuel pump to Clear the opening during removal. To install:

— a

et

es or

J 4

the assembly. Insert the fuel pickup and float into >

2-20 1. 2. 3. 4.

ENGINE ELECTRICAL and with the vehicle’s battery connected, the cooling fans could begin to operate without notice. Always keep hands, fingers, tools, clothing or other objects away from the cooling fans at all times. Failure to observe this warning could lead to personal and/or equipment damage.

Fuel transfer jet pump Fuel level sender Fuel tank flange Support rod

ee 84275039

the tank. Make sure to properly align the sending

unit as there is a rib on the flange that should align with a mark on the fuel tank. 10. Using Tool No. 16 1 020 or equivalent, torque the mounting ring to 27-31 ft. Ibs. (37-43 Nm). 11. Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connector. Install the cover and rear seat. 12. Fill the fuel tank with at least 1% gallons (5.6 1)of fuel. 13. Reconnect the negative battery cable and check for normal operation and fluid leaks and repair as necessary.

Cooling Fan Switch > See Figure 56 The electric cooling fan switch is installed into a coolant passage and operates the radiator auxiliary electric cooling fan when the coolant temperature

reaches a specified temperature or when the air conditioner is activated. The fan has operates in two stages depending on the engine coolant temperature. e>if the air conditioner is in proper working order, the engine cooling fans will operate when the air conditioner is turned: on, regardless of the coolant temperature. When testing the electric cooling fan switch, make sure the air conditioner is OFF.

Below the specified temperature the switch is off (open), and at or above the specified temperature, the switch is on (closed), and completes a series circuit that triggers the cooling fan relay allowing the cooling fan to operate.

TESTING

Use care when testing the radiator cooling fans as the fan blades have sharp edges

The electric cooling fan switch is a double temperature heat sensitive on-off, switch consisting of three electrical terminals and is mounted into the side of the radiator. The switch is used to complete a ground circuit for the cooling fan relay. Depending on the engine coolant temperature and climate control settings, the cooling fan will operate at either high or low speed. Because the fan switch is used to complete an electrical circuit, it is tested for continuity using an ohmmeter. The switch terminal positions, wire color and affected electrical circuits are as follows: e Terminal position 1: Brown wire, chassis ground e Terminal position 2: Black wire with green tracer, fan low speed circuit ¢ Terminal position 3: Black wire with gray tracer, fan high speed circuit

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

2-21

90963P01

Fig. 57 Squeeze the electrical connector to release the locking clip and carefully remove

The engine cooling fan switch remains in the open (off) position until the engine coolant reaches a certain temperature. The switch is designed to operate in two stages. Stage one operates the cooling fans at low speed by the switch completing the circuit between terminals 1 and 2. Stage two operates the cooling fans at high speed by the switch completing the circuit between terminals 1 and 3. The temperature at which the switch achieves the closed (on) position for stage one (low speed) and stage two (high speed) varies from model to model and is determined by the actual temperature rating of the switch.

962P13

Fig. 58 Use an ohmmeter to check the fan switch for continuity— M44 sensor shown

6. Allow the engine to reach a coolant temperature as follows. The fan switch should have continuity (switch closed) at this temperature: e Upto and including model year 1995: 210°F (99°C) e 1996-98 four cylinder engines: 190°F (88°C) e 1996-98 six cylinder engines: 210°F (99°C) 7. \fthe switch does not operate within the range of the supplied information, allow the engine to cool below 100°F (37°C) and replace the switch. Switch Removed

> See Figure 59

Switch Installed

> See Figures 57 and 58

3

CAUTION

Submerging the electric cooling fan switch below the threads could damage the component. Perform this procedure in a safe and

well-ventilated area. Wear eye protection and use care to not come in contact with any of the heated components. Do not use a heating device that produces an open flame. Testing a radiator fan switch is not difficult, however to do so requires some basic equipment. To properly test the fan switch, the switch’s probe must be submersed in heated water, only as far as the component's threads. The water must be heated while the temperature is monitored. When the water reaches the specified temperature, the fan switch should be closed. Use suitable fitting electrical jumper leads to avoid contact with the heated water during testing. Testing the switch requires the following equipment: e A Safe source of heat, such as a portable electric hot plate ¢ A container capable of being safely heated by a hot plate and handling heated water

Do not allow the engine to operate continuously without the aid of the auxiliary cooling fan otherwise severe engine damage may occur. 1. Locate the cooling fan switch mounted on the radiator. 2. Detach the wire connector from the fan switch. 3. To test stage 1 of the fan switch, using a suitable ohmmeter or continuity tester check for continuity between the fan switch terminals 1 and 2. 4. Allow the engine to reach a coolant temperature as follows. The fan switch should have continuity (switch closed) at this temperature: ¢ Up to and including model year 1995: 194°F (90°C) e 1996-98 4-cylinder engines: 176°F (80°C) e 1996-98 6-cylinder engines: 196°F (91°C) 5. To test stage 2 of the fan switch, using a suitable ohmmeter or continuity tester check for continuity between the fan switch terminals 1 and 3;

90964P58

Fig. 59 With the temperature probe of the fan switch submersed in heated water, an ohmme-

ter and a thermometer were used to check its operation

2-22

ENGINE ELECTRICAL

e A thermometer safely capable of reading

212°F (100°C) e A device to safely hold the switch such that only the coolant probe is submerged into the water

e An ohmmeter or continuity tester 1. Refer to the cooling fan switch removal and installation warning and procedures and remove the switch. 2. Attach a 12 inch wiring sub-harness to the cooling fan switch to avoid having to probe the switch while in the heated coolant. Place the switch into a suitable holding device such that the temperature probe of the switch is submersed in a container of heated water. Make sure the container can be safely heated using a suitable source of heat such as a portable electric hot plate. 3. Using a suitable thermometer to measure the coolant temperature, heat the water until the specified temperature is attained. 4, To test stage 1 of the fan switch, using a suitable ohmmeter or continuity tester check for continuity between the fan switch terminals 1 and 2. The cooling fan switch should have continuity (closed) between the electrical terminal positions 1 and 2 at the following temperatures:

e Up to and including model year 1995: 194°F (90°C) e 1996-98 four cylinder engines: 176°F (80°C) e 1996-98 six cylinder engines: 196°F (91°C) 5. To test stage 2 of the fan switch, using a suitable ohmmeter or continuity tester check for continuity between the fan switch terminals 1 and 3. The cooling fan switch should have continuity (closed) between the electrical terminal positions 1 and 3 at the following temperatures: e Up to and including model year 1995: 210°F (99°C) e 1996-98 four cylinder engines: 190°F (88°C) e 1996-98 six cylinder engines: 210°F (99°C) 6. Ifthe switch does not operate within the range of the supplied information, replace the switch.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The electric cooling fan switches are mounted on the side of the radiator into the cooling system passages.

WARNING When removing a fan switch, make sure the coolant temperature is below 100°F (38°C). 1. Note the radio security code and radio station presets. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3. Drain the coolant from the radiator drain petcock into a suitable and sealable container. 4. Locate the fan switch, then disconnect the wire terminal from the fan switch 5. Remove the switch using a sensor socket or box-end wrench. To install: 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 7. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 8. Top off coolant level and bleed the cooling system as necessary. 9. Enter the radio security code and radio presets.

ENGINE MECHANICAL 3-2 ENGINE 3-9 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-9 VALVE (CAMSHAFT) COVER 3-13 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-13 ROCKER ARM/SHAFTS 3-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-16 THERMOSTAT 3-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-16 INTAKE MANIFOLD 3-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-18 EXHAUST MANIFOLD 3-22 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-22 ENGINE FAN 3-23 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-23 TESTING 3-25 RADIATOR 3-25 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-25 WATER PUMP. 3-27 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-27 CYLINDER HEAD 3-29 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-29 OIL PAN 3-34 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-34 OIL PUMP 3-36 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-36 INSPECTION 3-36 CRANKSHAFT DAMPER 3-37 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-37 TIMING BELT COVER, SEAL AND SPROCKETS 3-37 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-37 INSPECTION 3-38 TIMING CHAIN, SPROCKETS, FRONT COVER AND SEAL 3-39 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-39 CAMSHAFT AND VALVE LIFTERS 3-41 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-41 INSPECTION 3-47 INTERMEDIATE SHAFT 3-47 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-47 FLYWHEEL/FLEXPLATE 3-47 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-47 REAR MAIN SEAL 3-47 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-47 EXHAUST SYSTEM 3-47 INSPECTION 3-47 REPLACEMENT 3-48 ENGINE RECONDITIONING 3-49 DETERMINING ENGINE CONDITION 3-49 COMPRESSION TEST 3-49 OIL PRESSURE TEST 3-50 BUY OR REBUILD? 3-50 ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS 3-50 TOOLS 3-50 OVERHAUL TIPS 3-51 CLEANING 3-51 REPAIRING DAMAGED THREADS 3-51 ENGINE PREPARATION 3-52

CYLINDER HEAD 3-52 DISASSEMBLY 3-52 INSPECTION 3-54 REFINISHING & REPAIRING 3-57 ASSEMBLY 3-58 ENGINE BLOCK 3-58 GENERAL INFORMATION 3-58 DISASSEMBLY 3-58 INSPECTION 3-59 REFINISHING 3-60 ASSEMBLY 3-61 ENGINE START-UP AND BREAK-IN 3-62 STARTING THE ENGINE 3-62 BREAKING IT IN 3-63 KEEP IT MAINTAINED 3-63 SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS 3-2 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 3-64

ENGINE AND ENGINE QVERRAUL ENGINE MECHANICAL 3-2 EXHAUST SYSTEM 3-47 ENGINE RECONDITIONING ‘3-49

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 3-2

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ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL a

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M50/S50/M52/S52 ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS Component Pistons (cont.) M52B28 engine

English

Metric

0.551 in. 3.306 in.

14mm 83.98 mm 84.06 mm 84.23 mm 84.48 mm

Piston diameter measurement:

(Distance from bottom of skirt) Standard size: Intemediate size: Overbore 1: Overbore 2: Piston clearance

3.309 in. 3.316 in. 3.326 in.

New engine: Used engine:

0.0004-0.0016 in. 0.0059 in.

0.01-0.04 mm 0.15 mm

0.374 in. 3.400 in. 3.408 in.

9.5mm 86.365 mm 86.565 mm

New engine: Used engine: Piston rings Top compression

0.0010-0.0023 in. 0.0044 in.

0.026-0.058 mm 0.113 mm

End clearance: Side clearance: Bottom compression

0.008-0.016 in. 0.0008-0.0020 in.

0.2-0.4 mm 0.02-0.052 mm

$52B32 engine Piston diameter measurement: (Distance from bottom of skirt) Standard size: Overbore 1: Piston clearance

End clearance:

0.008-0.016 in.

_0.2-0.4 mm

Side clearance: Oil contro! End clearance: Side clearance: Camshaft

0.0008-0.0020 in.

0.020-0.052 mm

0.008-0.018

End play: Bearing clearance: Valves Head diameter Intake: Exhaust:

'

in.

0.2-0.45 mm

0.0008-0.0022 in.

0.020-0.055 mm

0.006-0.013 in.

0.15-0.33 mm

0.0008-0.0021 in.

0.020-0.54 mm

1.299 in. 1.201 in.

33.0mm 30.5 mm

Stem diameter Standard size:

0.275 in.

6.975 mm

.

Oversize 1:

0.280in.

7.100mm

;

0.283 in. 0.020 in.

7.200 mm 0.5mm

| | |

Oversize 2: Stem to guide tilt clearance: Oil pump Pressure at idle:

18-28 psi

1.3-2.0 bar

Pressure at top speed:

57-61 psi

4.0-4.3 bar

Pressure relief valve spring length Operating pressure valve: Radial play of outer rotor to pump po

3.311 in. 0.0047-0.0077 in.

Axial payof inner rotor: _ Axial play ofouter rotor: .

— Py

0.0008-0.0026 in —

0,0016-0.0035iijf |

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ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

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REMOVAL & INSTALLATION In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as “disconnect the exhaust system” or “remove the radiator.” In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this manual. It is virtually impossible to list each individual

wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure. Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points: e Ifyou have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container. e Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them. ¢ Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during instal-

lation.

e After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported. e If itis necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside. e When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with

lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them _e Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected. ¢ After the engine is clear of the compartment, place iton an engine stand or workbench. _e After the engine has been removed, you can

perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using the procedures outlined in this manual.

0 Models

M20 ENGINES 1. Allow the engine coolant temperature to

ol below 100°F (38°C). 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. a Remove the transmission as outlined in ion7.

4, Remove the power steering belt, then with-

amove

|disconnecting the fluid hoses, loosen and the power steering pump mounting bolts. hoses attachedand sup“ag withsls in

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7. \f equipped, remove the air conditioner compressor drive belts and mounting bolts, then without disconnecting the high pressure hoses move the compressor out of the way and support. 8. Remove the hood strut support throughbolts and fully open the hood. Make sure to support the hood securely.

-¢ CAUTION Use care to support the hood in a safe manner. Failure to do so could result in serious injury and/or mechanical damage. 9. Disconnect the accelerator cable and if equipped, disconnect the cruise contro! cable. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, disconnect the throttle cable leading to the transmission. 10. Carefully remove the large, multi-prong electrical connector off the airflow sensor (an integral part of the air cleaner). Loosen the air intake hose clamp and disconnect the hose at the airflow

sensor. Remove the mounting nuts and remove the air filter housing along with the airflow sensor unit. 11. Disconnect the radiator expansion tank hose, then disconnect the large, multi-prong electrical connector near the air intake hose. 12. Locate the large, screw-on diagnostic electrical connector located near the thermostat, then unscrew and disconnect the connector. 13. Disconnect the large coolant hoses at the thermostat. 14. Place a suitable container under the engine, then disconnect the fuel line at the connection near the thermostat housing by unscrewing it and unfasten the fuel line clip about a foot away from the connection. 15. Detach the electrical connectors near the diagnostic connector. 16. Disconnect the bracket for the dipstick guide tube. 17. Remove the bolts that attach the coolant pipe mounting brackets to the engine. 18. Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater core fittings (near the firewall), then remove the coolant hose at the top of the block. 19. Place a suitable container under the engine and disconnect the fuel hose for the engine injectors, then detach the injector's electrical connectors. 20. Remove the bolt from the mounting bracket connected to the cylinder head. 21. Label and disconnect the electrical leads from the starter. Unbolt the starter and lift it out from above. 22. Place a suitable container under the engine to collect fuel; then, disconnect the fuel pipe near the starter. 23. Label the electrical connectors on the alternator. Then, pull off the rubber caps for the connectors and remove the nuts and washers. Disconnect the plug-in electrical connector. 24. Label and disconnect the electrical leads for the coil. Loosen the clips attaching the leads under the distributor and pull the harness away to the left, then disconnect the oil pressure sending unit wire. 25." Place a suitable drain pan underneath the engine and disconnect the oil cooler pipe flare nut

fittings at the crankcase. 26. Remove the cover from the under hood relay ift offthe relays along with their Anton

ly

Detar

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3-9

ES

27. .Loosen the carbon canister mounting clamp and remove it. 28. Locate the mounting plate near the dipstick guide tube where several electrical leads are connected. Remove its mounting screws and move the plate aside so it will clear the dipstick guide tube when the engine is removed. 29. Remove the 2 bolts that fasten the wiring harness to the firewall, then, disconnect the engine ground strap. 30. Remove both engine mount through-bolts. Carefully lift out the engine with a suitable hoist, using the hooks provided at the front and rear. To install: 31. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following.

32. Once installed the engine must be positioned such that the guide pin must fit in the bore of the axle carrier, 33. Torque the mounting bolts on the front axle carrier as follows: Small bolt: 18-20 ft. Ibs. (25-27 Nm) Large bolt: 31-35. (40-47 Nm) e Mount-to-bracket bolts: 31-35 ft. Ibs. (40-47 Nm) e Engine-to-bracket mount small bolts: 16-17 ft. Ibs. (22-23 Nm) e Engine-to-bracket mount large bolts: 31-35 ft. Ibs. (40-47 Nm) 34. Connect the fuel lines using new hose clamps to the fuel filter. 35. Connect all of the multi-plugs electrical connectors and vacuum hoses. 36. Connect the accelerator cable and if equipped, the cruise control cable to the throttle body. 37. Install the coolant recovery tank using a new hose clamp. 38. Install the air filter housing and reconnect all the electrical plugs. Connect and install the relays in the relay box. 39. Reconnect the wiring to the main control unit and install the idle contro! unit. 40. Install the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump, properly route the accessory drive belt. Adjust the belt tension. 41, Install the radiator and connect the hoses. 42. Install the transmission. 43. Install the hood support.

¥ vr ‘ :

44. Check and make sure all fluid levels are

‘i

topped off as necessary before starting the engine. 45. Bleed any trapped air from the cooling sys-

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tem.

$14 ENGINE

.

‘

> See Figure 1

- +

1. Allow the engine coolant temperature to cool below 100°F (38°C). , 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. : 3. Remove the transmission as outlined in— Section 7. 4. Remove the splash guard from undereaity the engine. Drain coolant from both the radiator and ie i block into a suitable container. - Te 5. Loosen the hose clamps at both ends of the air intake hose leading to the air intake Saltser. trical connectors from the;air cleaner/airflow se )

unit. Remove heynountiog nusangSaat 7

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3-10

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL i4

*

6. Disconnect the accelerator ant,ifequiped, the cruise control cable. Remov ‘cable housing

mounting bracket nuts and sate housing and bracket aside.

Ayae

7. Loosen the braid ter-Pacuum hose

clamp at the boostey“an effatd d ciseptnect the hose.

8. Loosen gatdiscénnect the clamp of the booster vac

the i.fromthe

oggtat themanifold, then remove

igtake manifold brace.

Oserf thehose clamp and disconnect the

Pn Sbat the manifold. Then, remove all the Aerain the manifold assembly to the outer

engs, athe intake throttle necks and remove the

8 émbly. 10. et, the hose clamps and disconnect the coolant expansion tank hoses and drain into a suitable drain pan, then disconnect the engine ground strap. 11. Disconnect the ignition coil high tension lead. Then, label and disconnect the connectors on the front of the block. Remove the nut fastening another lead farther forward of the connectors and move the lead aside so it will not interfere with engine removal. 12. Label and detach the connectors from the rear of the alternator. Label the additional connectors and then remove the nuts and unplug the remaining connectors. Reinstall the nuts once the leads are removed to keep them from being lost. 13. Remove the cover for the electrical connectors from the starter. Label the leads and then remove the attaching nuts and disconnect them. Reinstall the nuts. 14. There is a wire running to a connector on the oil pan to warn of low oil level. Pull off the connector, unscrew the carrier for the lead, and then pull the lead out from above. Pull off the connectors near where the lead for the low oil warning system ran and unclip the wires from the carrier. 15. Locate the vacuum hose leading to the fuel pressure regulator and carefully remove it. Label and then disconnect the plugs. Unscrew the mounting screw for the electrical lead connecting with the top of the block and remove the lead and its carrier. 16. Locate the vacuum hose connected to the throttle necks. Disconnect it and pull it away from the intake manifold bracket. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the rubber retainer, and then pull the idle speed control out and place it aside. Locate the engine wiring harness and remove it from its carriers. 17. All the fuel injectors are plugged into a common plate. Carefully and evenly pull the plate

Fig. 1 Air conditioner compressor mounting bolts on the $14 engine

off the injectors, pull it out past the pressure regulator, and lay it aside. 18. Loosen the clamp and then disconnect the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose. Label and then disconnect the fuel lines connecting the injector circuit. Disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head and drain the coolant into a suitable container. 19. Loosen the clamp near the throttle necks and then pull the engine wiring harness out and put it aside. Disconnect the heater hose that connects to the block and drain the coolant into a suitable container. 20. Loosen the mounting clamp for the carbon canister, slide it out of the clamp, and place it aside with the hoses connected. 21. Note the routing of the oil cooler lines where they connect to the base of the oil filter. Label them as necessary. Unscrew the flared connectors for the lines and drain the oil into a suitable container. 22. Unbolt and remove the engine cooling fan. Store it in an upright position. Remove the radiator. 23. Remove the power steering belt, then remove the adjusting bolt and the nuts and bolts on which the unit hinges Pull the pump aside and support the power steering pump so there will not be strain on the hoses. 24. \f equipped, disconnect and remove the air conditioning belt Remove the adjusting bolt and the nut at one end of the hinge bolt and pull the bolt out for the air conditioning compressor. Then, remove, and support the compressor with the high pressure hoses attached. 25. Remove the hood strut support throughbolts and fully open the hood. Make sure to support the hood securely.

+ CAUTION Use care to support the hood in a safe manner. Failure to do so could result in serious injury and/or mechanical damage. 26. Suspend the engine with a suitable lifting device. Then, remove the nuts for the engine mounting bolts. The mounts are on the axle carrier and the nut is at the top on the left and on the bottom on the right. Then, carefully lift the engine out of the compartment, avoiding contact with the components remaining in the vehicle. To install: 27. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 28. Torque the engine mounting bolts to 32.5 ft. Ibs. (44 Nm). 29. Adjust the belt tension for the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump drive belts to give Y2-% inch (12-19mm) deflection. 30. Torque the oil cooler line flare nuts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm) 31. When reconnecting the intake manifold to the throttle necks, inspect and, if necessary, replace the O-rings. Torque the mounting nuts to 78 inch Ibs. (9 Nm). 32. When lowering the engine into the engine compartment, the engine is positioned such that the guide pin must fit in the bore of the axle carrier. 33. Torque the mounting bolts on the front axle carrier as follows: © Small bolt: 18-20 ft.Ibs.rad Hate

alt: $135. (4

yi

e Mount-to-bracket bolts: 31-35 ft. Ibs. (40-47 Nm) e Engine-to-bracket mount large bolts: 31-35 ft. Ibs. (40-47 Nm) 34. Install the intake manifold assembly and connect the fuel lines, use new hose clamps to connect the fuel lines to the fuel filter. Connect all of the multi-prong plugs and all vacuum hoses. 35. Connect the accelerator cable and cruise control cable to the throttle body and adjust the accelerator cable and cruise control cable. 36. Install the coolant recovery tank using a new hose clamp. 37. Install the air cleaner and reconnect all electrical plugs. Connect and install the relays in the relay box. 38. Reconnect the wiring to the main control unit and install the idle control unit. 39. If equipped, install the air conditioning compressor and power steering pump, properly route the accessory drive belt. Adjust the belt tension. 40. Install the radiator and connect the hoses. 41. Install the transmission as outlined in Section 7. 42. Install the hood support and lower the hood. 43. Check and top off all fluid levels as necessary before starting the engine, Bleed the air from the cooling system as needed.

M42 ENGINE 1. Allow the engine coolant temperature to

cool below 100°F (38°C). 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the transmission as outlined in Section 7. 4. Remove the engine splash guard. Disconnect the gas spring and prop rod and support hood safely in the fully open position.

> CAUTION Use care to support the hood in a safe manner. Failure to do so could result in serious injury and/or mechanical damage.

5. Remove the fan cowl by turning the expansion rivets on the left and right sides. Lift the cowl up and out of the engine compartment. 6. Hold the fan pulley while toa the fan nut clockwise from the shaft. >The shaft has left hand threads thus the nut is turned clockwise to unscrew.

7. Drain the coolant from the radiator and engine block into a suitable container. Disconnect the bottom hose from the radiator expansion tank, the engine coolant hoses and the heater hoses from the splash wall. Drain alcoolant into a suitable container.

8. Disconnect the airflow meter electrical connector and loosen the hose clamp and mounting

screws. Lift the air sensor wm the

ean

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL starter. Disconnect the 2 plugs from the electrical duct. 13. Remove the plug from the throttle valve potentiometer located at the throttle neck. 14. Pull off the tank venting valve plug located next to the air cleaner. Disconnect the fuel injector plug located at the end of the electrical duct near to the fuel pipes. 15. Pull off the idle speed control connector at the rear of the intake manifold. 16. Detach the oil pressure switch electrical connection. 17. Unscrew the front and rear intake manifold supports. 18. Remove the electrical duct from the engine. Disconnect the coolant temperature senders for the gauge and the DME engine contro! module. 19. Disconnect the electrical duct and wiring harness on the engine and lay it off to the side of the engine. 20. Use a suitable lifting yoke to attach to the engine lifting eyes. Unscrew the engine mounts and the engine ground strap. Lift out the engine. To install: 21. Lower engine into engine compartment. Fasten the motor mounts and the ground strap. 22. Attach the engine wiring harness and electrical duct. Make sure that the rubber grommets on the duct are clipped in correctly. Connect the leads to the two coolant sensors and the oil pressure switch. 23. Fasten the front and rear intake manifold supports. 24. Connect the idle speed control plug, the fuel injector plug, the tank venting valve plug, the throttle valve potentiometer plug and the electrical lead duct plugs. 25. Reconnect the starter and the alternator. Attach the ignition leads to the coil in the proper order. 26. Refit the vacuum connection to the brake booster. Reconnect the tank vent hose and the fuel hoses. The upper fuel hose is the return line and the bottom is the feed line. 27. Attach the throttle cable and its holder. Replace the air cleaner and air flow meter assembly. Attach the electrical connector to the air flow meter. - 28. Connect the heater hoses, engine coolant hoses and the radiator expansion tank hose. 29. Install the fan turning the nut counterclockwise using Tool No. 11 5 040 or equivalent. Torque the nut to 29 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm). If using the tool set the torque wrench to 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm); the additional length of the tool multiplies the torque to achieve 29 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm) at the nut.

30. Replace the fan cowl taking care to engage the tabs at the right and left. 31. Install the transmission as outlined in Section 7. 32. Replace the engine splash guard, then reconnect the hood prop rod and gas spring. 33, Check and top off all fluid levels as necessary, then bleed the cooling system. 34. Connect the battery leads and recheck all fluid levels before starting the engine.

E36 Models > See Figures 2 thru 17 e>Engine removal on the E36 models requires the transmission and intake manifold to be removed prior to removing the engine.

1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to.Section 5 for specific details. 2. Allow the engine coolant temperature to cool below 100°F (38°C). 3. Note the radio code and disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Remove the hood or place the hood in the service position as outlined in Section 10. 5. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 6. If equipped, remove the lower engine cover. 7. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle and drain the radiator, then remove the engine block coolant drain located just beneath the exhaust manifold. On 4-cylinder models the drain plug is toward the rear of the block. On 6-cylinder engines, if the block is cast iron the plug is near the exhaust ports for cylinders four and five, on aluminum engines the plug is near cylinders two and three. Once drained, reinstall the drain plug using a new sealing washer. 8. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions, place a suitable drain pan under the transmission cooling lines at the radiator, disconnect and drain the cooling lines. DO NOT drain the transmission fluid into the same container as the coolant. Keep all fluids separated for proper recycling. 9. Carefully lower the vehicle then remove the engine cooling fan, then the radiator. For specific details refer to the removal procedures outlined in this section. 10. On 4-cylinder models, label and disconnect the wiring harness electrical connector for the ignition coil pack. On M44 engines, remove the coil pack from the mounting bracket and secure the coil pack to the top of the engine.

Pa

3-11

inder models, remove the valve cover e) and disconnect the ignition coil € wiring harness aside.

12, Remdvé fhe Haina For specific details

refer to the intak ifo tsbe procedures in this section: e Air filter housin ¢ Fresh air intake rt mate contro!

at the upper firewal

On some models the starter motor has a dowel pin between the two mounting bolts that may corrode in place. Move the starter sideto-side to help release the dowel pin.

20. Attach Too! No. 00 0 200 engine support carriage and Tool No. 11 0 030 lifting hook or their equivalents to support the rear of the engine with

the lifting eye just above the starter motor area once the transmission is removed. 21. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 22. On 4-cylinder models, if not previously removed, disconnect and remove the fuel lines on the lower left side of the engine.

"aah ste pled re

Air'duct locking{clipyaas 90963PE6

;

90962P08

Fig. 2 The fresh air intake hose is located under the upper radiator trim cover—M44

engine shown

90962P07

Fig. 3 Remove the four fasteners, then lift the cover off—M44 engine shown

Fig. 4 The fresh air intake duct is secured to the front body panel with a locking clip. Simply lift the clip upward to release—

M44 engine shown

3-12

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

Fig. 5 With the trim cover removed and locking tab released, the intake hose is lifted up and unsnapped from the air filter housing—M44 engine shown

90962P01 Z

aide!

Fig. 6 Remove the two fasteners at the top of the cooling fan shroud, then. . .

Fig. 7. . . lift the cooling fan slightly to access and disconnect the electrical connectorand. . .

SNS

9096202 Fig.8. . . carefully lift the fan assembly upward from the radiator—M44 engine shown

7923DG03

Fig. 11 Power steering pump mounting bolts—E36 6-cylinder models

;

eee

a

7923DG01

Fig. 9 Cooling fan removal tools. Note the spindle has left hand threads and the fan is removed by turning it clockwise

Fig. 10 The ignition leads on the coil are released by lifting the locking bracket— E36 6-cylinder models

7923DG04

79230605

Fig. 12 Throttle cable—E36 6-cylinder models

Fig. 13 Front and rear intake manifold supports—E36 6-cylinder models

Fig. 15 Right engine mount, showing the ground cable attachment—E36 6-cylinder model shown

model shown

7923DG06

Fig. 14 Temperature sensor (1), tempera_ture gauge (2), oil pressure switch (3) and

| idle speed control valve (4) electrical connector locations—E36-6-cylinder models

Fig. 16 Left engine mount—E36 6-cylinder

t

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

7923DG09

Fig. 17 Air cleaner and air mass sensor— E36 6-cylinder model shown

23. Remove the exhaust system. 24. Remove the exhaust heat shields as necessary to access the driveshaft. 25. Remove the transmission as outlined in Section 7. 26. Carefully lower the vehicle. 27. Attach a suitable engine lifting sling to the front and rear lift hooks on the intake side of the engine. 28. Disconnect the engine ground cable at the right front engine mount. 29. Remove the left and right engine mount fasteners. 30. Inspect the engine to make sure all hoses, cables and electrical connectors have been properly disconnected. 31. Using a suitable engine lifting device, carefully lift the engine up and out of the vehicle. To install: 32. Installation is in reverse order of assembly noting the following. 33. When installing the transmission to the engine, insert the locating dowels into the engine to ease assembly. 34. Coat all injector and sealing o-rings with a light film of oil before assembling.

36. On 6-cylinder engines inspect the manifold seals and replace as necessary. 37. On all models, inspect the oil dipstick tube O-ring and replace as necessary. 38. On vehicles with automatic transmissions: a. Connect the automatic transmission cooling lines using new seals on the lines and tighten to 13-15 ft. Ibs. (18-21 Nm). b. Check the transmission fluid level, top off as necessary, and recheck fluid level once the engine has been started. 39. Torque the mounting fasteners as follows: . Transmission-to-engine fasteners: M8 hex screws: 18 ft. Ibs. (25 Nm) M10 hex screws: 36 ft. Ibs. (49 Nm) M12 hex screws: 54 ft. Ibs. (74 Nm) M8 Torx® bolts: 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) M10 Torx® bolts: 32 ft. Ibs. (43 Nm) M12 Torx® bolts: 53 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm) . Engine mount fasteners: M8: 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) M10: 35 ft. Ibs. (47 Nm) eee Ooeeeovovreneee . Intake manifold to cylinder head fastenis*)=wn”

M6: 72 inch Ibs. (8 Nm) M7: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) M8 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) d. Fan clutch (left hand thread) to water pump spindle: 30 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm) 40. Refill and bleed the cooling system as nec-

essary. e>lit may be necessary to bleed the cooling system a second time once the engine has been started.

70—-88.5 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). 7. Connect the crankcase breather hose. Install the intake manifold support and torque to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). M42 ENGINE

> See Figures 18 and 19 1. Remove the spark plug valley cover from the valve cover. The 2 trim fasteners are rotated 90° and the cover is removed. 2. Disconnect the spark plug leads. Remove the 2 screws holding the ignition lead loom and place the loom off to the side. 3. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the valve cover. Remove the 15 bolts along the edges and in the center of the valve cover, then remove the cover. The mounting bolts pass through rubber isolators. Check that all the isolators are in place and did not drop into the cylinder head when removed. Check the condition of the isolators and replace as necessary.

44. Re-check all fluids after the engine has been started, and top off as necessary.

Valve (Camshaft) Cover REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

threads, thus the fan clutch assembly must be

E30 Models

rotated counterclockwise to install. As there is a minimum amount of clearance between the water pump and the radiator assembly, rotat-

514 ENGINE

35. On 4-cylinder engines, replace the following: ¢ Intake manifold-to-cylinder head gasket ¢ Upper-to-lower intake manifold gaskets « Inspect the fuel feed o-ring for the fuel rail and replace as necessary ¢ Fuel line hose clamps

2. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose. 3. Remove the 8 nuts holding the cover. Remove the cover and gasket. To install: 4. Clean the mating flanges of the cylinder head and the valve cover. Install the new gasket on the cylinder head. 5. Attach the ground strap at the rear stud and install the ignition lead loom. 6. Tighten the 8 nuts in a crisscross pattern starting at the center of the valve cover. Torque to

41. Check and top off all fluid levels. 42. Install the engine splash shield. 43. Connect the negative battery cable and recode the radio.

>On models with a water pump mounted cooling fan, the water pump spindle threads for the cooling fan clutch assembly have left hand

ing the fan clutch assembly to install it onto the water pump spindle may be difficult. To assist with the installation of the fan clutch assembly, use a piece of thin, sturdy string about 3 feet (1 meter) long. Wind the string around the fan clutch mounting nut in a clockwise direction 15-20 revolutions. Position the fan clutch assembly on the water pump spindle squarely and while holding the fan, slowly pull the string to spin the fan clutch mounting nut. in a counterclockwise direction. Once the nut begins to thread onto the water pump spindle, remove the remainder of the string.

3-13

1. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose. 2. Remove the 2 bolts holding the ignition lead loom. Disconnect the spark plug leads and place the loom off to the side. 3. Remove the 18 nuts holding the valve cover, then remove the cover from the vehicle. Thoroughly clean the gasket mating surfaces. To install: 4. Clean the mating flanges of the cylinder head and the valve cover. Install the new gasket on the cylinder head. 5. Tighten the 18 nuts in a crisscross pattern starting at the center of the valve cover. Torque to 70-88.5 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). 6. Connect the crankcase breather hose. Install the spark plug lead and the ignition lead loom bolts.

M20 ENGINE 1. Disconnect the intake manifold to valve cover brace.

84273023

Fig. 18 Remove the entire ignition lead loom before removing the valve cover on the M42 engine

84273024

Fig. 19 The M42 and M50 engine valve cover is mounted via rubber isolators that must be kept in position during installation

3-14

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

4. Check the condition of the valve cover gasket and replace as necessary. To install: 5. Clean the mating areas of the cylinder head and the valve cover. Install the valve cover gasket

into the valve cover. 6. Place the valve cover on the cylinder head. Check that all the isolators are in place at the bolt holes. Check the gasket is properly fitted at the rear of the cylinder head. 7. Torque the 15 bolts 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm) in a Crisscrossing pattern to evenly tighten. 8. Connect the crankcase breather hose. Install the ignition lead loom and replace the spark plug leads. Install the spark plug valley cover.

E36 Models

» See Figures 20 thru 36 1. Remove the climate control air intake grille and intake duct at the rear of the engine compartment on the upper firewall. For specific details, refer to Section 6. 2. Remove the center trim cover by turning the fasteners clockwise 90 ° then lift the cover off. 3. Locate the tool used to remove the plug wires, then label and remove the plug wire connectors. 4. On M44 engines, turn the ignition coil pack electrical connector counterclockwise and remove the multi-wire harness, then remove the two mounting fasteners and place the coil assembly aside.

5. Using a 10mm wrench, loosen the two fasteners for the plug wire heat shield mounted on the side of the valve cover just enough to allow the Shield to lifted off the valve cover. Lift the shield along with the spark plug connectors and their lower insulating tray and place aside. 6. Using a 10mm socket, extension and ratchet, loosen the valve cover bolts in a crisscross pattern. 7. Carefully lift the valve cover away from the cylinder head taking care to not damage the seal. If necessary, carefully peel the seal away from the valve cover and cylinder head. To install: 8. Inspect the valve cover gaskets and seals for damage, or excessive hardness. If the gaskets or

9096121

Fig. 20 The 4-cylinder trim cover is removed by turning the mounting fasten-

ers clockwise 90°

9096123 Fig. 23 Remove the ignition coil harness connector by rotating it counterclockwise—M44 engines

90961P20

Fig. 21 With the fasteners released, simply lift the trim cover off

90963P78

Fig. 24 The plug wire heat shield is attached to the valve cover with two captured bolts

90961P35

Fig. 22 The spark plug connector removal tool is under the trim cover

90963P76

Fig. 25 The plug wire heat shield, spark plug connectors and insulating tray are lifted off and placed aside

90963PC9 90963PC6

Fig. 26 Once the fasteners have been completely loosened, lift the valve cover away from the cylinder head

Fig. 27 With the valve cover removed, inspect the four seals in the center for the spark plug cavities, and check the oil jet

and oil spray orifices for restrictions

90963PC2

Fig. 28 To clean the valve cover gasket, place it in a sealable sandwich bag, then... j

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

90963PB9

Fig. 29. . . add a small amount of brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol, seal the bag and shake vigorously

SOREECH Fig. 30 Next, fill the bag with water, seal and shake again.

. .

3-15

90963PB0

Fig. 31. . . then remove the gasket from the bag and wipe it dry with a clean shop towel

90963PD1

Fig. 32 Apply a non hardening gasket sealant to all four corners of the half mooned openings at the rear of the cylinder head

90963PE7

Fig. 35 Make sure the oil jet and spray orifices in the valve cover are clear and free of debris

90963PD3

Fig. 33 Also apply a suitable sealant to the leftand. . .

seals are brittle or have been damaged, replace them. Carefully inspect the following: e Valve cover gasket e Spark plug cavity seals e Valve cover bolt grommets ¢ Oil jet fitting seal (located on the oil jet fitting between the camshafts for cylinder No. 1) 9. Thoroughly clean the valve cover gasket mating surface on the cylinder head with brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol. 10. Make sure the valve cover oil jet and oil spray orifices are clean and not restricted. 11. If necessary clean the valve cover assembly. If cleaning is necessary, remove the four spark plug cavity seals before cleaning. Clean the seals with rubbing alcohol or brake cleaner and wipe dry. Inspect the seals for wear or damage and replace as necessary. Reinstall the seals on the valve cover using a suitable semi drying gasket sealer. Allow enough time for the sealant to set up so the seals will stay in place during installation. 12. After inspecting the valve cover gasket if it is to be reused thoroughly clean the gasket. To clean the gasket proceed as follows:

a. Place the gasket in a sealable sandwich

£

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A,

|

x Oilljetfeed fitting 90963PE8

Fig. 36 Inspect the oil jet fitting oil seal at the front of the cylinder head and replace as necessary

sized bag. b. Spray or pour a small amount of brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol into the bag and seal it. c. Shake the bag back and forth to fully saturate the gasket. d. Fill the bag with water, shake back and forth and remove the gasket. e. Wipe the gasket dry with a clean shop towel.

90963PD2

Fig. 34. . . right timing cover-to-cylinder head seams

13. Install and fully seat the valve cover gasket into the groove surrounding the valve cover. 14. Apply a non hardening sealant to the corners of the half-moon openings of the cylinder head's valve cover gasket mating surface, and at the front timing cover-to-cylinder head jointing surfaces. 15. Inspect the oil jet feed fitting oil seal and replace if necessary. Make sure the seal is fully seated on the fitting. Coat the sealing surface of the seal with a light film of engine oil. Do not uses sealant on this seal.

If the oil jet feed fitting oil seal is damaged, missing or improperly installed, severe engine mechanical damage may occur.

16. Carefully lower the valve cover onto the cylinder head, making sure the valve cover gasket and spark plug cavity seals remain in place as the cover is lowered into position. Once installed, press down on the valve cover and make sure it is fully seated before tightening the fasteners. 17. Inspect the valve cover bolt sealing grommets and replace as necessary.. Tighten the valve cover bolts in a three step crisscross pattern, starting with the inside bolts and working outward. Tighten the bolts as follows: e M6 bolts: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) e M7 bolts: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) e M8 bolts: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) 18. The balance of the installation is in reverse order of removal.

3-16

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

Rocker Arm/Shafts REMOVAL & INSTALLATION M20 Engine

Check the rocker shafts for scoring and wear at the rocker arm pivot points. Check the shaft oiling holes for clogging and varnish. Check the bushing in the rocker arm for wear. Check the adjuster eccentric for flat spots. Check the iron pad for wear and looseness. If the iron pad is loose, it will make a ticking or tapping noise when the engine is running. >The cylinder head must be removed before the rocker arm shafts can be removed. Support the head so it can not move around on the

bench.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the cylinder head.

2. Mount the head on a suitable holding fixture. 3. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and remove the camshaft distributor adapter and sprocket. Reinstall the adapter on the camshaft. 4. Adjust the valve clearance to the maximum allowable on all valves. 5. Remove the front and rear rocker shaft plugs and lift out the thrust plate. 6. Remove the spring-clips from the rocker arms by lifting them off. 7. Remove the exhaust side rocker arm shaft: a. Set the No. 6 cylinder rocker arms at the

valve overlap position (rocker arms parallel), by rotating the camshaft through the firing order. b. Push in on the front cylinder rocker arm and then turn the camshaft in the direction of the intake rocker shaft, using a % inch drive breaker bar and a deep well socket to fit over the camshaft adapter. Slide each rocker arm to one side as it develops sufficient clearance away from its actuating camshaft and the valve it actuates. Rotate the camshaft until all of the rocker

arms are relaxed. c. Remove the rocker arm shaft by driving it out or pulling it out. 8. Remove the intake side rocker arm shaft:

a. Turn the camshaft in the direction of the exhaust rocker arm. b. Use a deep well socket and % inch drive breaker bar on the camshaft adapter to turn the camshaft. Slide each rocker arm to one side as it develops sufficient clearance away from its actuating camshaft and the valve it actuates. Rotate the camshaft until all of the rocker arms are relaxed. c. Remove the rocker arm shaft. 9. Install the rocker arm shafts by reversing the removal procedure. Keep the following points in mind: a. The large oil bores in the rocker shafts must be installed downward, toward the valve guides and the small oil bores and grooves for the guide plate face inward toward the center of the head. b. The straight sections of the spring clamps must fit into the grooves in the rocker arm shafts. c. The guide plate must fit into the grooves in the rocker arm shafts. d. Adjust the valve clearance. M44 Engine > See Figures 37, 38, 39 and 40 >The Hydraulic Valve Adjuster (HVA) can be replaced once the rocker is removed.

Fig. 37 Tool No. 11 5 130 or its equivalent is used to depress the valve and valve spring, allowing the rocker to be removed

Fig. 38 The rockers must be installed in the exact position from which they were removed. Note how the rocker has a slight

bend away from the camshaft journal— M44 engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the valve (cylinder head) cover. 3. Remove the spark plugs. 4. Remove the engine cooling fan as outlined in this section. 5. To remove a rocker, rotate the engine until the lobe of the camshaft for the rocker to be removed is pointing up.

6. Insert Tool No. 11 5 130 or equivalent between the camshaft and the valve, then press the valve down and remove the rocker. To install: 7, Make sure the camshaft lobe is pointing upward.

8. Coat the valve, camshaft and HVA adjuster with fresh engine oil. 9. Press the valve down using tool No. 115 130 or equivalent, then install the rocker. 10. The remaining components are installed in the reverse order from which they were removed. 11. Check all fluid levels and top off as necessary, 12. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 13. Start the engine and inspect for any fluid leaks,

Thermostat

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

514 ENGINE 1. Drain the coolant. Save the coolant in sealed containers if being reused or dispose of safely. 2. Loosen the hose clamps holding the thermostat at the exhaust side of the engine. Place a drain pan under the thermostat to catch the coolant that will drain out. 3. Remove the thermostat. 4. Install the thermostat using new clamps. Fill the cooling system and bleed.

M20 ENGINE 1. Partially drain the coolant. Save the coolant in sealed containers if being reused or dispose of Safely. 2. Remove the 3 bolts on the thermostat housing located at the intake side of the engine. 3. Pull the thermostat housing off and remove the thermostat. Note the positioning of the thermoStat. To install: 4. Replace the thermostat with a the support bar facing out. Replace the O-ring. 5. Install the thermostat housing and torque the bolts to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm). 6. Fill the cooling system with coolant mixture and bleed.

90963PE2

Fig. 39 The rocker rests on the hydraulic adjuster and the valve. The camshaft lobe contacts the roller portion of the rocker

Fig. 40 The rockers have a slight bend and must be reinstalled in their exact order CI —_——

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL SD EE EP IE TTL PALL BIE BE ERE ER ELI DDD NER IE BIGGIE EEO

M42 ENGINE 1. Partially drain the coolant. Save the coolant in sealed containers if being reused or dispose of Safely. 2. Remove the 4 bolts on the thermostat housing located at the front of the cylinder head. It may be necessary to remove the hoses from the housing first if the housing can’t be pulled forward enough. 3. Pull the thermostat housing off and remove the thermostat. Note the positioning of the thermo-

stat. To install: 4. Replace the thermostat with a the support bar facing out. Replace the O-ring and gasket. 5. Install the thermostat housing and torque the bolts to 71—-88.5 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). 6. Fill the cooling system with coolant mixture and bleed. E36 Models

> See Figures 41 thru 47 The thermostat is located inside the black composite housing on the front of the cylinder head. 1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. If installed, remove the top trim cover from the radiator. 3. On models with a belt driven cooling fan, remove the cooling fan. For details refer to engine fan removal in this section. 4. Drain the engine coolant into a sealable container.

5. Loosen the radiator hose clamps and remove the radiator hoses.

PBS WE EPP EE EI

SEES

a

3-17 ES

thermostat properly could result in overheating and possible engine damage.

e>The hoses have a tendency to bake onto the composite housing material. If necessary use a suitable lubricating spray and a blunt right angle hook or cotter key removal tool to relieve the hose from the fitting.

6. Using a 10mm socket, short extension and ratchet, loosen the housing mounting bolts and remove the housing. 7. If the thermostat is installed into the housing it should be replaced as a unit with the housing. It is possible to remove the thermostat from the housing, however as an original equipment replacement part it is only available as part of the housing. For documentation purposes only, the thermostat was removed from the housing by pressing down on the thermostat and turning the end of the thermostat counterclockwise to release the metal tabs from the retaining brackets. To install: 8. Inspect the housing for cracks, especially around the bolt holes. Some early model housings do not have metal sleeves in the bolt holes and have a tendency to crack if over-tightened. 9. Replace the thermostat housing seal. On 6cylinder engines, replace the thermostat seal. 10. Install the thermostat making sure the air bleed hole is facing UP

11. Coat the thermostat housing bolts with a suitable anti-seizing compound and tighten in a crisscross pattern to the specification given below. DO NOT overtighten the housing bolts. a. Thermostat housing fastener tightening specifications: e M6: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm)

e M7: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) e M8: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) 12. The balance of the assembly is in reverse order of disassembly making sure to use the correct mixture of coolant, properly bleed the cooling system and enter the radio security code.

90963P12

The thermostat must be installed with the vent hole facing up. Failure to install the

Fig. 41 The thermostat housing is on the front of the cylinder head—M44 engine shown

90963P15

90963P13

Fig. 42 This thermostat is installed into the housing and is replaced with the housing—M44 engine shown

Fig. 43 For documentation purposes only, this thermostat was removed by pressing down and turning the end counterclockwise. The metal tabs seat in the housing bracket—M44 model shown

90963P18

S0963P14 90963P17

Fig. 45. . . replace with a new seal during reassembly—M44 model shown

90963P44

Fig. 46 Apply an anti-seizing compound to the housing bolts

Fig. 47 When you install the thermostat, make sure the bleed hole is facing up as shown

3-18

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

Intake Manifold REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

514 ENGINE e>A Torx® nut driver is needed to perform this operation.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the cap nuts at the outer ends of the 4 throttle necks. Then remove the mounting nuts underneath. 2. Make sure the engine has cooled off. Loosen the hose clamps for the air intake lines and for the fuel lines where they connect with a the injection pipe. Collect fuel in a metal container. 3. Disconnect the throttle cable. 4. Pull off the intake manifold. Cut off the crankcase ventilation hose running to it from the crankcase. Then, remove the manifold and place it aside. Supply a new crankcase ventilation hose. 5. Pull off the throttle valve switch plug. Carefully pull the injector plug plate evenly off all 4 injectors.

6. Pull the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose off the pressure regulator. 7. Remove the 2 mounting bolts for the injector pipe. Then, carefully lift off the pipe and injectors. 8. Unscrew the nut attaching the ball joint at the end of the throttle actuating rod to the throttle linkage. Supply a new self-locking nut.

9. Remove the nuts attaching the throttle necks to the cylinder head. Then, remove the 4 throttle necks as an assembly, 10. Separate the throttle neck assemblies by pulling them apart at the connecting pipe. 11. Inspect the O-rings in the connecting pipe and at the outer ends of the throttle necks. Replace as necessary. 12. Reverse the removal procedure to install. Use the new throttle linkage self-locking nut and the new crankcase ventilation hose. 13. Torque the nuts attaching the throttle necks to the head and the intake manifold to the throttle necks to 5-8 ft. Ibs. (9-11 Nm). Adjust the throttle cable.

M20 ENGINE 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and drain the cooling system. 2. Disconnect the wire harness at the air flow sensor. Remove the air flow sensor as an assembly. Disconnect the air intake hose running from the air flow sensor to the manifold. © 3. Remove and tag the vacuum hoses and electrical plugs. Disconnect the accelerator linkage (and cruise control linkage, if so equipped) from the throttle housing. Disconnect the throttle position sensor harness. 4. Disconnect the coolant hoses from the throttle housing. 5. Working from the rear of the manifold, disconnect the vacuum lines and the electrical harness. Tag the connectors and lines for ease of assembly. 6. Detach the fuel injector electrical connections. Disconnect the injector harness loom from the manifold and pull out of the way.

7. Disconnect the fuel lines from the injector

rail. 8. Disconnect the intake manifold support from the valve cover. Remove the nuts holding the intake manifold and remove the intake manifold. To install: 9. Install the intake manifold on new gaskets and torque the nuts to 16-18 ft. Ibs. (22-25 Nm). Install the support and torque to 15-17 ft. Ibs.

(20-24 Nm). 10. Install the fuel lines to the fuel rail. Install the injector harness loom and connect the fuel injector plugs. 11. Connect all lines, electrical connections and harness connections. Connect the coolant lines, the throttle position sensor and the throttle cables. 12. Connect the ducting from the air flow sensor to the throttle and the air flow sensor. 13. Fill the cooling system with coolant mixture and connect the negative battery terminal. M42 ENGINE

» See Figures 48 thru 54 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the air duct to the throttle body. 2. Disconnect the rear mounting bracket and remove the hose. 3. Loosen the front mounting bracket and remove the nut directly under the throttle body. 4, Remove the 9 mounting bolts and lift off the upper manifold section. Pull the hose off the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. 5. Pull the plug plate off the fuel injectors and remove the clamp.

84273029 84273027

Fig. 48 The rear brace and hose on the M42 engines intake manifold

Fig. 49 Remove the this nut when removing the upper section of the M42 engine’s intake manifold

Fig. 50 Remove the these bolts when removing the upper section of the intake manifold—M42 engines

84273031

Fig. 51 Lift off the upper section of the ~ intake manifold and remove the vacuum hose—M42 engine

Fig. 52 Replace the gasket and check the dowel sleeves before replacing the upper section of the intake manifold—M42 engine

Fig. 53 Removing the injector rail-M42

engine

|

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

3-19

90963P56

84273033

Fig. 54 Remove these bolts to remove the lower intake manifold—M42 engine

6. Remove the injector rail with the fuel injectors attached. Remove the 5 bolts holding the lower manifold section and remove the manifold. To install: 7. Check the sleeves on the studs. Replace the manifold gasket and install the lower manifold section. Torque to 10-12 ft. Ibs. (13-17 Nm). 8. Lubricate the injector seals with a slight film of oil and install the injector rail. Install the plug plate and clamp. 9. Connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line and install the upper manifold section with a new gasket. Torque to 10-12 ft. Ibs. (13-17 Nm). 10. Tighten the nut directly under the throttle body. It may be necessary to bend the tab against the throttle body. 11. Connect the front and rear braces. Connect the hose to manifold. Connect the air duct to the throttle body. Connect the negative battery terminal. E36 Models

BMW uses fasteners with 7 x 1.0mm threads in many areas. Most of these fasteners use an 11mm wrench size. As 7mm fasteners are not as readily available as 6 x 1.0mm and 8 x 1.25mm fasteners, locating 7mm fasteners and thread repair kits could be a challenge. Take special care to not damage, ° lose or misplace fasteners when performing repair procedures. Carefully organize the fasteners as they are removed. If a 7 x 1.0mm nut is needed and not readily available, a standard size V4 x 20 or V4 x 28 nut can be threaded using a 7 x 1.0mm tap as an alternative emergency measure.

Fig. 55 Loosen the booster’s hose clamp by using a suitable prytool inserted into the opening and moving the tool side to side

4-CYLINDER ENGINES

» See Figures 55 thru 78 The intake manifold is a two piece manifold. The throttle body is attached to the upper intake manifold and the positive crankcase breathing system is “sandwiched” between the upper and lower intake manifolds. Removing the manifold is not extremely difficult, however a bit time consuming. Because of the number of pieces that must be removed to access the manifold, make sure to label all cables, electrical connectors, fuel, coolant and breather hoses. Make a drawing of the routing of all cables, hoses and wiring harnesses. 1. Relieve the residual fuel system pressure. For details refer to Section 5. 2. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. 4, Label and detach the electrical connector in the inlet duct for the mass airflow sensor between the air filter housing and the throttle body. 5. Loosen the intake air duct clamp at the throttle body and remove the upper air filter housing, mass air flow sensor and intake duct. 6. Remove the cover for the accelerator cable(s). 7. Label and disconnect the throttle cable and if equipped, the cruise control cable as follows: a. Using a suitable small flat-bladed prytool, carefully release the throttle cable barrel from the plastic clip ofthe linkage arm. b. Move the throttle body linkage arm

90963P58

Fig. 56 Once loosened, slide the clamp up the hose and disconnect the hose

enough that the plastic retaining clip can be squeezed together and pressed out of the arm, the slide the cable sideways through the opening in the linkage arm. c. Remove the plastic clip and place aside. d. Carefully slide the cable out of the rubber seat in the throttle cable mounting bracket. e. Remove the rubber seat from the mounting bracket and slide the cable through the bracket and place aside. If equipped with cruise control, repeat the procedure for the second cable. 8. Label and disconnect the hoses and electrical connectors from the throttle body. 9. Using a small suitable flat-blade prytool, loosen the brake booster hose clamp on the right side of the manifold by inserting the prytool into the crimped portion of the clamp and pressing on the prytool while moving side-to-side to release the tension on the clamp. Remove and plug the hose. 10. Using an 11mm (%c inch) wrench, loosen but do not remove the upper manifold-to-support bracket bolts on both sides of the manifold, then remove the bolt and two nuts that secure the upper manifold to the lower manifold just to the left of the brake booster hose fitting. 11. Label and remove the coolant hoses and breather hose to the positive crankcase ventilation assembly mounted at the lower manifold opening, and remove the assembly. Make sure the openings in the lower manifold remains covered with clean shop towels. 12. Using a 10mm wrench, remove the dipstick

90964P69

Fig. 57 Removing the upper intake manifold from the lower intake manifold. Note, throttle body removed for photo

90963P59

Fig. 58 The upper intake manifold has a support bracket on the left and right side

Fig. 59 Always cover an exposed intake opening with clean shop towel

3-20

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

90963P47

:

-

Fig. 60 The crankcase breather system is

ie

,

a

located between the upper and lower manifolds and has a breather hose and two small coolant hoses

90969P48 Fig. 61 The dipstick tube mounting bracket is secured to the lower intake manifold

10965P03

a

Fig. 63 Use a line wrench on fuel line

erseor Fig. 66 Once the injectors are released from their ports, lift the fuel rail away from the manifold, leaving the breather hoses attached

90963P68

Fig. 69 A long handled retrieval magnet is placed under the socket to catch the manifold nut once it is loosened

Fig. 64 The fuel rail is held to the manifold with two bolts

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A

90965P05

Fig. 65 Protect the valve cover with a soft shop towel when easing the fuel rail away from the intake manifold

90963P67

Fig. 67 The lower intake manifold-to-support bracket bolts are located below the intake runners for cylinder Nos. 1 and 4— M44 engine shown

r

8.

99963P49

Fig. 62 The engine wiring harness electrical connectors should be labeled for correct reassembly

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bara

flare nut. Make sure to inspect the O-ring when removing this fuel line

——

Sid

Fig. 68 The lower intake manifold-to-support bracket bolt under intake runner No. 4 is shown using a small inspection mirror

90963P72

n

ery Fig. 70 As the socket is pulled away from the stud, the magnet attracts the nut

Fig. 71 As you pull the socket away, the mounting nut remains on the magnet preventing any chance of being lost or dropped

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

90963P87

Fig. 72 Lift the lower intake manifold just enough to clear the studs so the remaining wires can be disconnected

3-21

90963P86

Fig. 73 The engine wiring harness is routed through the lower intake manifold

runners

90963P84

Fig. 74 With the lower manifold placed aside, the starter motor electrical connectors are easily accessed

90963P81

90963P82

Fig. 75 Peel back the rubber boot on the alternator and remove the wires

Fig. 76 Once all of the wires are disconnected, the harness can be fed up through the lower intake manifold

To avoid debris from entering the injector ports, If compressed air is available, using an air nozzle, and wearing eye protection, carefully spray compressed air around the base of the injectors. If excessive debris exists, spray the base of the injectors with an evaporating brake cleaner and spray again with compressed air. If compressed air is not available, spray the brake cleaner to clean as best as possible. .

a 90963P79

Fig. 78 With the wires places aside, the manifold is ready to be completely removed

tube mounting bolt and remove the dipstick, along with the guide tube and O-ring. Plug the hole in the oil pan with a clean shop towel. Inspect the O-ring and replace if brittle or damaged. Upon reassembly, lubricate the O-ring with a light coat of fresh engine oil. 13. Label the electrical connectors for the engine wiring harness and note the location and routing of the fuel lines. 14. Remove the fuel rail complete with the fuel injectors and place aside. For specific details, refer to fuel injector removal in Section 5. Make sure when removing the metal fuel line for the fuel injector fuel rail, to not loose or damage the O-ring.

15. Plug the fuel feed and return lines.

16. Cover the fuel injector ports in the manifold with suitable plugs or clean shop towels to prevent debris from entering the intake ports. 17. Locate and remove the two bolts with a 13mm wrench at the front and rear lower portion of the intake manifold that secure the manifold to the support bracket. 18. Using an 11mm universal socket attached to along extension and ratchet, loosen but do not completely remove the intake manifold-to-cylinder head mounting bolts starting from the outside nut and working inward. 19. To reduce the chance of loosing one of the 7 X 1.0mm manifold nuts, place a long retrieval magnet beneath the socket to catch the nuts as they are removed from the cylinder head intake port studs. 20. Lift the manifold off just enough to clear the mounting studs and feed the fuel lines between the intake runners and set aside to access the remaining engine wires, including those for the starter motor and alternator. 21. Label and remove the wires and carefully

90963P80

Fig. 77 Once fed through the manifold, place the wires aside remove the harness up through the center of the manifold and place aside. 22. Lift the manifold out of the engine compart-

ment. Cover the open intake ports with clean shop towels to prevent debris from entering. To install: 23. Installation is in reverse order of removal making note of the following points. 24. Replace all intake manifold gaskets with new gaskets. 25. Tighten and torque the intake manifold-tocylinder head nuts evenly working from the inside outward, to the following specifications: e M6: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) e M7: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) e M8: 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) 26. Inspect the following O-rings and replace as necessary. ¢ Dipstick ¢ Fuel injector e Dipstick guide tube e Fuel feed line-to-fuel rail 27. Lubricate all O-rings with a light coating of fresh engine oil before reassembling. 28. Upon completion check for any fluid or vacuum leaks and repair as necessary.

6-CYLINDER ENGINES 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure, as outlined in Section 5. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a sealable container.

3-22

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

5. Remove the fastener for the throttle cable cover and pull the cover forward and off, then unclip the cable and pull the cable out with the rubber holder. 6. Pull the vacuum fitting from the brake booster and plug the openings. 7. Remove the engine and intake manifold covers, remove the bolt holding the ground strap on the front lifting eye and reinstall the bolt. 8. Remove the bolts holding the ignition coil wire harness plug plate. Be careful not to damage the rubber seals. Take off the ignition coil electrical plugs, then remove the plug plate complete with the electrical leads. 9. Remove the cylinder head vent hose and remove the air temperature sensor plug. Remove the tank venting hose and the coolant hoses from the throttle body. Remove the throttle valve switch connector. 10. Unclip the idle speed contro! valve mounted on the manifold, then disconnect the fuel hoses from the feed and return lines. 11. Remove the hardware holding the intake manifold to the cylinder head. Remove the intake manifold taking care not to drop anything into the exposed ports. Cover the exposed ports with clean shop towels. To install: 12. Install the manifold onto the engine after Cleaning the mating surfaces of both components and tighten the manifold bolts evenly from the middle outward, to the following specifications: ¢ M6: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) e M7: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) e M8: 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) 13. Install the remaining components in the opposite order from which they were removed. 14. Check and top off all fluid levels as necessary. 15. Connect the negative battery cable. 16. Check for any fluid leaks.

Exhaust Manifold Before removing the exhaust manifold, spray the fasteners with a suitable penetrating lubricant to ease their removal, but make sure the engine is cool first! If possible apply the penetrating lubricant several times before attempting to remove any fasteners.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

7. Remove the mounting nuts at the cylinder head, then remove the exhaust manifold. 8. Clean all gasket material from the surfaces of the manifold anid head and replace the gaskets. To install: 9. Position the manifold on the head, torque the manifold bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (9 Nm) and the coolant pipe mounting bolts to 5-8 ft. Ibs. (7-11 Nm). 10. Torque the bolts at the flange attaching manifold and exhaust pipe first to 22-25 ft. Ibs. (30-34 Nm) and then to 36-40 ft. Ibs. (48-54 Nm). 11. Make sure to refill the cooling system with fresh anti-freeze/water mix and bleed the cooling system.

M20 ENGINE

Fig. 80 Make sure the graphite side of the exhaust manifold gasket faces the cylinder

head

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. With the exhaust system cool, disconnect the exhaust pipes from the manifolds. Remove the 3 nuts on each flange connection and lower the exhaust pipes. Support the exhaust system. Make sure the oxygen sensor wire is not being stretched. 3. Remove the nuts securing the manifolds to the cylinder head. Remove the manifolds. To install: 4. Clean the mounting surfaces on the manifolds and the cylinder head. Check the condition of the studs and replace if necessary. 5. Install the new exhaust manifold heat shield gaskets and install the manifolds. Torque the nuts to 16-18 ft. Ibs. (22-25 Nm). Use new copper nuts. 6. Connect the exhaust pipes to the manifolds using new gaskets. Connect the negative battery terminal. Start engine and check for leaks. M42 ENGINE

» See Figures 79 and 80 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. With the exhaust system cool, disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. Remove the 4 nuts on the flange connection and lower the exhaust pipes. Support the exhaust system. Make sure the oxygen sensor wire is not being stretched. 3. Remove the nuts securing the manifold to the cylinder head. Remove the manifolds. To install: 4. Clean the mounting surfaces on the manifolds and the cylinder head. Check the condition of the studs and replace if necessary. 5. Install the new exhaust manifold gaskets with the graphite side towards the cylinder head and

install the manifolds. Torque the nuts to 16—18 ft. lbs. (22-25 Nm). Use new nuts and anti-seize. 6. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifolds. Connect the negative battery terminal. Start engine and check for leaks. E36 Models

» See Figures 81 thru 87 The exhaust manifold for the 6-cylinder engines is actually two pieces and comprised of one manifold each for cylinders 1-3 and cylinders 4-6. Because the engines used in the E36 models are a slant design being tilted toward the exhaust side of the vehicle, accessing the exhaust manifold-tocylinder head fasteners can be done from the engine compartment and from underneath the vehicle. Handy tools for this procedure include an 11mm (a “Aeinch) universal (flex) socket, a long extension,.a ratchet and an 11mm (“Aeinch) deep well socket. If available, due to the corrosion that tends to accumulate around exhaust fasteners, use 6 point wrenches and sockets to help prevent rounding off the fasteners. 1. Allow the engine to cool until the coolant temperature is less than 100 °F (38°C). 2. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Place a protective cover over the right side fender area and using an 11mm (7Asinch) deep well socket and ratchet, loosen all the accessible fasteners, then remove all but one of the accessible fasteners on 4-cylinder manifolds and one each for the

E30 Models

514 ENGINE 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. With the engine cool, remove the coolant drain plug from the block. 3. Remove the 2 electrical connectors from the front of the coolant manifold that runs along the exhaust side of the engine. 4. Disconnect the radiator hose from the front of this pipe. 5. Then, remove all the mounting bolts for this pipe and remove it. Inspect the O-rings and replace any that are worn or damaged. 6. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold ~ ~ flange. Remove the heat shields from under the engine. ;

90963P90 84273034

Fig. 79 Remove these bolts when removing the exhaust manifold—M42 engine

Fig. 81 Many of the exhaust manifold-to- —

cylinder head fasteners are easily accessed from the engine compartment— M44 engine shown

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

3-23

Ee

90963P92

90963P91

Fig. 82 The fasteners that may be difficult to access from the engine compartment are easily accessed from beneath the vehicle

90963P93

Fig. 83 Use a deep well 6 point socket to loosen and remove the fasteners from underneath, or. . .

Fig. 84. . . once loosened, a swivel socket and. . .

90963P95

90963P94

Fig. 86 The front pipe-to-manifold fasteners usually have a light coating of rust. Use a 6 point socket when removing them

Fig. 85. . . a long extension can help speed up removal time

11. Remove the manifold by either lowering it downward or lifting it up out of the engine compartment. 12. On 6-cylinder models, remove the fastener used to support the cylinders 4-6 manifold and remove the manifold by either lowering it downward or lifting it up out of the engine compartment. To install: 13. Installation is in reverse order of removal making sure to: a. Replace all gaskets. b. Coat all exhaust manifold studs with a high temperature anti-seizing compound and tighten the manifold-to-cylinder head fasteners in a crisscross pattern working from the inside out as follows: e M6: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) ¢ M7, EXCEPT M50/M52/M52TU/S52/S50 engines: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) ¢ M7, M50/M52/M52TU/S52/S50 engines: 15 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) 14. Upon completion check for any leakage and repair as necessary.

two 6-cylinder manifolds to prevent the manifolds from falling off while working underneath the vehicle. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

*¢ CAUTION Exhaust related work can generate many loose particles of debris. Wear eye protection at all times to help prevent debris from entering your eyes. 5. Working from underneath the vehicle, use a deep well socket and ratchet or boxed end wrench

to loosen the remaining manifold-to-cylinder head fasteners. If available, use a long extension and an 11mm (7Aeinch) universal socket and a ratchet to remove the loosened fasteners.

+: WARNING Use care when using an universal socket to keep the working angle as straight as possible, otherwise an excessive side load could break an exhaust stud.

6. Spray a suitable penetrating oil onto the exhaust pipe-to-manifold mounting nuts. 7. Using a suitable 16mm (% inch) socket, extension and ratchet, remove the exhaust pipe-tomanifold fasteners, then loosen the connection. 8. Safely lower the vehicle. 9. On 4-cylinder models, remove the fastener used to support the manifold. 10. On 6-cylinder models, remove the fastener used to support the cylinders 1-3 manifold

’

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 88 thru 95 The engine cooling fan may be one of two types, either electrically operated, or mounted onto the water pump spindle and driven by the engine's

Fig. 87 Spray a penetrating lubricating fluid on exhaust fasteners before removal

accessory drive belt. On engines equipped with a belt driven cooling fan, the fan must be removed before the radiator can be removed. If the cooling fan is to removed to perform a repair procedure that does not call for radiator removal, the radiator can be protected by sliding a thin piece of sheet metal or sturdy cardboard onto the radiator in place of the cooling fan and shroud. 1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the radiator trim cover fasteners. The fasteners may be a combination of two types, self-tapping screws and a two piece button styled rivet which are removed by using a trim panel tool to first extract the locking pin, and then removing the rivet. 3. With the fasteners removed, lift the trim cover off. 4. On 6-cylinder models: a. Remove the alternator cooling hose. b. If installed, remove the rubber gaiter near the washer solvent reservoir. 5. On 4-cylinder models, locate the fresh air duct locking clip tucked behind the right headlight assembly and release the clip by pulling upward. ° Then remove the engine fresh air intake duct by sliding the duct outward and up 6. On models equipped with a water pump mounted, belt driven cooling fan: a. Support the water pump pulley using Too! No. 11 5 030 or by using a suitable sized, thin gooseneck pliers. b. Using Tool No. 11 5 040 or a 32mm (1 % inch) open end wrench loosen the fan coupling nut by turning it clockwise.

3-24

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL Rllghht headlight assembly Righthoodlatch

( cking clipay Fig. 88 Remove the top trim cover to gain access to the intake fresh air duct

90963PE6

90962P07

90962P08

Fig. 89 With the fasteners removed, lift the trim cover off

Fig. 90 The fresh air duct locking clip is tucked behind the right headlight assembly

90962P01

90962P06

Fig. 91 Remove the engine fresh air intake duct by lifting the lock tab and sliding the duct outward and up

90962P04

Fig. 94. . . remove the fasteners at the upper corners of the fan shroud and. . . e>The fan clutch water pump coupling is a left

hand thread.

c. Remove the lock pins from the upper fan shroud rivets on the upper corners of the fan shroud and carefully press the center of the fan cowl backwards to release the guide clip. d. Carefully lift both the fan shroud and fan assembly together, upward and away from the

radiator. e. Matchmark the cooling fan to the fan coupling and remove the fan from the coupling by removing the three fasteners. 7. On models equipped with electric engine cooling fans: . a. Detach the fan electrical connector.

7923DG01

Fig. 92 Cooling fan removal tools

Meso

Fig. 95. . . lift the cooling fan up and out of the engine compartment

b. Remove the fasteners at the upper corners of the fan shroud. c. Lift the fan shroud along with the cooling fan up and out of the engine compartment. d. Remove the cooling fan from the electric motor. To install: 8. Before installing the fan, check the condition of the drive belts and coolant hoses. Replace if brittle, damaged or worn, 9. On models with electric cooling fans: a. When installing the fan shroud, make sure the shroud seats correctly at the bottom corners. ‘ b. Make sure all electrical connections ar properly installed. .

Fig. 93 On models equipped with electric engine cooling fans, detach the fan’s electrical connector, then. . .

c. Upon installation, verify proper operation of the cooling fan. 10. On models with a water pump mounted cooling fan: a. Inspect the condition of the fan clutch and replace if excessively loose or damaged. b. Make sure the cooling fan is properly attached to the fan clutch. c. Place both the cooling fan and shroud into the engine compartment together, making sure the shroud seats in its lower retainers securely. d. Install the upper fan shroud rivets to secure the fan shroud. e. Install the fan and fan clutch assembly onto the water pump. spindle, rotating the fan clutch spindle nut counterclockwise to install. >The water pump spindle threads for the cooling fan and fan clutch assembly are left hand threads, therefore the fan clutch assembly must be rotated counterclockwise to install. As

there is a minimum amount of clearance between the water pump and the radiator, turning the spindle nut for the fan clutch assembly when installing it onto the water pump spindle may be difficult.

f. To assist with the installation of the fan clutch assembly, use a piece of thin, sturdy string about 3 feet (1 meter) long. Wind the string around the fan clutch mounting nut in a clockwise direction 15-20 revolutions, leaving about 6 inches (150mm) of string unwound. Position the fan clutch nut onto the water pump spindle squarely, and while holding the fan,

slowly pull the string to spin the fanclutch nut in

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ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL I

TT ET

EE

a counterclockwise direction. Once the nut begins to thread onto the water pump spindle, remove the remainder of the string. g. Support the water pump pulley using Tool No. 11 5 030 or by using a suitable sized, thin gooseneck pliers. h. Tighten the fan clutch nut counterclockwise as follows: ¢ Using tool No. 11-5-040: 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm)

¢ Without tool No. 11-5-040: 29 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm) 11. The balance of the installation is in reverse order of assembly, making sure to verify proper

operation of the cooling fan.

TESTING E36 Models

Do not allow the engine to operate for a prolonged length of time without an operational cooling fan, otherwise, severe mechanical damage could occur. The electric cooling fans can be tested by: ¢ Simulating the cooling fan switch operation ¢ Supplying power directly to the fan using a set of fused jumper leads The advantage of testing the cooling fans by simulating the cooling fan switch operation is that this procedure tests the entire fan circuit. The advantage of supplying power directly to the cooling fan is that this will quickly determine whether the fan motor itself is defective, or whether there is a problem with another component or the circuit wiring. It is possible to have one or more problems. For example if a fan motor overheated or seized, the relay and/or wiring could be damaged. If the relay stuck in the closed position, the cooling fan could be damaged and the battery drained. If testing the fan circuit requires working near the cooling fan, disconnect the cooling fan and attach a test light to the cooling fan electrical connections. The will help to avoid the chance of being struck by the cooling fan. Also if testing for an intermittent condition, the test light can be monitored for an on/off condition much more easily than a cooling fan. The cooling fan electrical connections are as follows: ¢ Chassis ground: Brown wire ¢ Power (High or Low speed): Blue, Black/Blue The sensor wire electrical connections are as follows: ¢ Chassis ground: Brown wire ¢ Relay low speed trigger wire: Black/Green e Relay high speed trigger wire: Black/Gray Proper testing should be done in an logical and organized method.

COOLING FAN ONLY To check only the cooling fan proceed as follows: 1. Check the battery voltage at the battery and at the fuse panel. The battery voltage should be at least 12.3 volts. If less than 12.3 volts, charge or replace the battery. The voltage measured at the fuse panel should be within 0.3 volts of the measured battery voltage, if not check the wiring for a

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poor connection between the battery and the fuse panel, and/or the battery and ground. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position. 3. Using at least a 12 gauge set of fused jumper leads proceed as follows: a. Detach the cooling fan electrical connection. D. Connect the ground terminal of the jumper leads to a known good ground, or to the negative battery jump post and to the brown wire of the cooling fan. c. Connect the positive terminal of the jumper leads to blue wire of the cooling fan. d. Connect the other positive terminal of the jumper leads to the positive battery post. The fan should operate. e. Disconnect the positive jumper lead from the jump post and move the positive jumper lead to the black/blue wire of the cooling fan. f. Connect the positive terminal of the jumper leads to the positive battery post. 4. Ifthe fan failed to operated during testing, replace the fan.

COOLING FAN CIRCUIT AND FAN To test the cooling fan using the cooling fan circuit proceed as follows. 1. Check the battery voltage at the battery and at the fuse panel. The battery voltage should be at least 12.3 volts. If less than 12.3 volts, charge or replace the battery. The voltage measured at the fuse panel should be within 0.3 volts of the measured battery voltage, if not check the wiring for a poor connection between the battery and the fuse panel, and/or the battery and ground. 2. Make sure the ignition switch and the climate control are in the OFF position. 3. Check all the fan fuses and replace any damaged or blown fuses with the correct amperage fuse as necessary. 4. Detach the electrical connector at the thermal fan switch located on the side of the radiator. 5. Using a suitable jumper wire, connect the jumper between the brown wire and the black/green wire of the thermal fan switch electrical connector. 6. The cooling fan should operate on low speed with the ignition switch in the ON position. If the cooling fan did not operate, detach the cooling fan electrical connector and using a voltmeter, attach the negative lead to the brown wire and simultaneously probe the blue and black/blue wires. If battery voltage is present, turn the ignition OFF and test the fan using fused jumper leads as described earlier in this section. If battery voltage is not present, check the circuit grounds, electrical connections, fuses and the fan relay. 7. To test the high speed operation of the cooling fan: 8. Using a suitable jumper wire, connect the jumper between the brown wire and the black/green wire and the brown wire and the black/gray of the thermal fan switch electrical connector. >This test requires the air conditioning system to be fully charged and operational.

9. The cooling fan should operate on high speed with the engine running and the air conditioner switched on. If the cooling fan does not operate: a. Turn the ignition OFF. b. Detach the cooling fan electrical connector.

ES

3-25

Se

c. Turn the ignition ON but do not start the engine.

d. Using a voltmeter, attach the negative lead to the brown wire and simultaneously probe the blue and black/blue wires. If battery voltage is present, turn the ignition OFF and test the fan using fused jumper leads as described earlier in this section. If battery voltage is not present, check the circuit grounds, electrical connections, fuses and the fan relay.

Do not allow the engine to operate for a prolonged length of time without an operational cooling fan, otherwise, severe mechanical damage could occur.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

tek CAUTION Ethylene glycol coolant can be dangerous to animals and small children if ingested in enough quantity. Even a small amount can

kill a pet and cause sickness in a child. Keep children and pets away from coolant. E30 Models

514 AND M20 ENGINES 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Allow the engine to cool completely. 2. Remove the expansion tank cap.. 3. Remove the fan cowl! by pulling the expansion rivets out and pulling the cowl out. Remove the splash shield if necessary and drain the cooling system at the plug on the lower left side of the radiator. 4. Disconnect the radiator hoses, vent hose and the transmission oil cooling lines. Plug the transmission lines. Disconnect the sensor electrical leads. 5. Remove the upper radiator support and the radiator. To install: 6. Install the radiator. Check the lower supports are in place. Install the upper support. 7. Connect the electrical leads and the transmission lines. Tighten the connections to 13-15 ft. lbs. (18-21 Nm). 8. Install the radiator hoses with new clamps. Install the radiator cow! by pushing the rivets in. Tighten the drain plug and fill with coolant mixture. Connect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine, bleed the system and check for leaks.

M42 ENGINE 1. Allow the engine to coo! completely. Loosen the bleeder screw on the radiator expansion tank next to the radiator cap. 2. Remove the splash guard from under the car. Loosen the drain plug and catch the coolant in a container. 3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose and catch the coolant. Disconnect the temperature switch. Disconnect the. lower radiator hose and catch any coolant.

3-26

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

4. Pull out the rivets and remove the fan cowl. Disconnect the lower expansion tank hose. If equipped, disconnect the automatic transmission oil cooling lines and plug. 5. Unlock the radiator holding clips by inserting a tool in the opening and pressing down. Remove the radiator. To install: 6. Install the radiator on the mounts and press into the clips until the spline engagement stops. 7. Connect the electrical leads and the transmission lines. Tighten the connections to 13-15 ft. Ibs. (18-21 Nm). 8. Connect the expansion tank hose. Install the fan cowl into the slots on the radiator. Press the rivets in to lock. Connect the radiator hoses.

9. Install the splash shield, fill with coolant mixture and bleed the system. E36 Models

» See Figures 96 thru 108 1. Allow the coolant temperature to 100°F (38°C) before performing cooling system repair procedures. 2. If installed, remove the lower engine trim panel. 3. Open the radiator drain plug and drain the coolant into a sealable container. ; 4. Remove the trim cover self-tapping screws, then using a trim panel tool, remove the pressed in lock pin and lock of the two piece button fasteners . and lift the trim panel off.

¥

90963P28

Fig. 96 Remove the radiator trim cover self-tapping screws and. . .

90963P01

Fig. 99 Unplug the coolant level sensor connector from the coolant expansion tank

5. Remove the radiator fan shroud and cooling fan as outlined in this section. 6. Detach the level sensor electrical connector on the lower portion of the coolant expansion tank, then if equipped, unplug the electrical connector on the side of the radiator for the electric cooling fan. 7. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator and expansion tank hose. e>if necessary, use a right angle cotter key removal tool that has a blunt tip and coat with a penetrating lubricant to loosen baked on coolant hoses from the composite cooling system fittings

8. If equipped with an automatic transmission, place a suitable drain pan under the transmission cooler lines and drain the residual fluid into the

90963P30

Fig. 97. . . using a trim panel tool, remove the pressed in lock pin and lock of the two piece button fasteners

Fig. 98 The trim panel lifts off easily once the fasteners are removed

lower portion of the radiator. Use a suitable flat-blade or Phillips screwdriver to loosen

Fig. 101 Use a right angle cotter key removal tool with a blunt tip and coated with a penetrating lubricant to carefully loosen baked on coolant hoses from the composite fittings

wr 90963P32

Fig. 102 A cutaway view of the radiator hold-down bracket showing the prytool (1), Body panel (2) and retainer (3)

Fig. 103 Insert a small suitable flat-blade prytool into the square slot of the plastic radiator hold-down bracket, then. . .

Fig. 104. . . press down and pivot the tool back slightly to release the bracket’s locking clip

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

3-27

Water Pump

Do not start or run an engine without coolant, as the water pump seal could be damaged.

90963P33 Fig. 105 Once the bracket’s locking clip is released, the hold-down bracket pivots upward out of the radiator’s cushioned mount

90963P34

Fig. 106 Once the hoses and fan switch electrical connector are disconnected and mounting brackets released, carefully lift out the radiator

Water pumps fail for a variety of reasons. The water pump seal is cooled and lubricated by the engine coolant. If the engine is operated with a low coolant level and/or a leaking radiator cap not only could premature water pump failure occur, if overheated there is a risk of damaging the cylinder head gasket and warping the cylinder head and engine block deck surfaces. Because the camshaft is installed in the cylinder head, a warped cylinder head may be rendered useless if the warpage effects the alignment of the camshaft journals.

> CAUTION

. Radiator cap with vacuum and pressure valves

. Coolant flow from engine . Vent line To thermostat Control line To water pump LV Level markings NOSSO

84273039

Fig. 108 A top view of the expansion tank with an arrow marking the bleeder screw

drain pan as the lines are removed. Plug the cooling lines to avoid debris from entering, and inspect the seals and replace if brittle, damaged or worn. 9. Insert a small, suitable flat-blade prytool into the square slot of the plastic radiator hold-down bracket, and press down while pivoting the tool back slightly to release the brackets locking clip. Once the bracket's locking clip is released, the bracket pivots upward out of the radiator's cushioned mount 10. Make sure all hoses and electrical connectors are disconnected and the mounting brackets

feleased. Carefully lift out the radiator. Make sure 4

ber support mounts are retained for

To install: 11. With the radiator removed, inspect the water pump, drive belt and related cooling system hoses for wear, deterioration or damage and replace as necessary. 12. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 13. On models equipped with automatic transmissions, connect the automatic transmission cooling lines using new seals and tighten to 13-15 ft. Ibs. (18-21 Nm). 14. Make sure the coolant drain plug is in place and tight. 15. Make sure the radiator is installed with both lower rubber support mounts properly installed 16. Use a 5%o mixture of an approved coolant and if available, distilled water. DO NOT exceed more than a 60% mixture of coolant to water. 17. When filling the cooling system, the climate control temperatures to full hot and bleed the cooling system as outlined in Section 1. 18. Upon reassembly: a. Check for coolant leaks and repair as necessary b. Make sure all electrical terminals are properly connected and if installed, check for proper operation of the electric engine cooling fan. c. Check for proper operation of the cooling system d. Once the engine cools, recheck and top off

the coolant as necessary.

Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. When performing repairs to the cooling system, apply a light coating of an anti-seizing compound to the following items: ¢ All cooling system O-rings ¢ All cooling system rubber seals e Any threaded fastener installed into the

engine block or cylinder head .

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

514 ENGINE 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain — the cooling system. 2. Remove the fan. The fan must be held stationary on tool 11 5 030 or some sort of flat-bladed too! cut to fit over the hub and drilled to fit over 2 of the studs on the front of the pulley. Remove the fan coupling nut; left hand thread—turn clockwise to remove. 3. Remove the belt and pulley. 4. Disconnect the hoses from the water pump. Remove the 7 mounting bolts and remove the water pump. To install: 5. Clean the gasket surfaces and useanew — gasket. 6. Install the water pump in position. Torque M8 bolts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm) and M6 bolts to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm). 7. Connect the hoses. : 8. Install the pulley and tighten the bolts to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm). Install the belt and tighten. Install the fan. 9. Add coolant and bleed the cooling system. Connect the negative battery terminal.

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3-28

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

M20 Engine

> See Figure 109 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. 2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Remove the rotor adapter, the dust shield and the distributor housing. 3. Remove the fan. The fan must be held stationary on tool 11 5 030 or some sort of flat-blade too! cut to fit over the hub and drilled to fit over 2 of the studs on the front of the pulley. Remove the fan coupling nut; left hand thread—turn clockwise to remove. 4, Remove the belt and pulley. 5. Remove the rubber guard and distributor and or upper timing belt cover. 6. Compress the timing tensioner spring and clamp pin with the proper tool. Observe the installed position of the tensioner spring pin on the water pump housing for reinstallation purposes.

7. Remove the water hoses, remove the 3 water pump bolts and remove the pump. To install: 8. Clean the gasket surfaces and use a new gasket. 9. Install the water pump in position. Note the position of the tensioner spring pin. Torque M8 bolts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm) and M6 bolts to 53-62 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). Connect the hoses. 10. Release the tensioner from the holding pin. Install the upper timing cover. Install the pulley and tighten the bolts to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm). Install the belt and tighten.

11. Install the fan, distributor housing and dust shield. Tighten the rotor adapter to 39-47 ft. Ibs. (55-65 Nm). Install the rotor, O-ring and cap. 12. Add coolant and bleed the cooling system. Connect the negative battery terminal.

5. Remove the engine cooling fan and shroud as outlined in this section. 6, Loosen but do not fully remove the water pump pulley bolts.

7. Label the direction of the drive belt(s), then remove the belt(s). Inspect and replace as neces-

sary.

M42 Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system. 2. Remove the fan. Remove the drive belt and the water pump pulley. 3. Remove the pump mounting bolts. 4. Screw 2 bolts into the tapped bores and press the water pump out of the cover uniformly. To install: 5. Lubricate and install a new O-ring. 6. Install the water pump and tighten the bolts to 80 inch Ibs. (9 Nm). 7. Install the pulley and tighten the bolts to 80 inch Ibs. (9 Nm). Install the belt and fan. 8. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Connect the negative battery terminal.

E36 Models

> See Figures 110 thru 116 1. Note the radio security code and disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle. 3. Remove the radiator drain plug and drain the coolant into a sealable container. 4, Remove the engine block drain plug located just below the exhaust manifold and drain the coolant into a sealable container.

8. Remove the water pump pulley bolts, then remove the pulley. 9. Carefully remove all of the water pump mounting bolts using a crisscross pattern. As the bolts may have corroded in place, spray them with a light coating of a penetrating lubricant and use 6 point wrenches or sockets during removal. 10. Apply an anti-seizing compound to two 6 X 1.0 x40mm bolts and thread them into the top and bottom threaded holes in the water pump housing. Thread the bolts lightly until they are seated. Then, alternately turn each bolt one turn at a time to extract the water pump. Watch the water pump as it is being removed. It should come straight out of the engine block. If the pump cocks to one side, loosen that removal bolt and tap the pump inward until its mating surface is parallel with the block. To install: 11. Inspect the following items and replace as necessary: Hose clamps Radiator cap Coolant hoses Coolant thermostat Accessory drive belts Accessory drive belt tensioning and guide rollers

ASN 84273047 90963P19

Fig. 109 Compress the timing belt tensioner spring and clamp with tool 11 5 010 or equivalent

Fig. 110 Loosen the water pump pulley bolts before removing the drive belt—M44 engine shown

:

90963P21

Fig. 111 Once the pulley is removed, carefully loosen the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern

90963PE0 90963P22

Fig. 112 Thread two 6 x 1.0 x 40mm bolts into the top and bottom threaded holes in the pump housing

Fig. 113 As the bolts are tightened, the water pump is extracted from the engine block. Note, do to availability, we used bolts of a different length

90963P24 Fig. 114 Once the O-ring clears the engine

block, the water pump is easily removed

Pet

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ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

3-29

84273053

"90963P45

Fig. 115 Coat the water pump O-ring with an anti-seizing compound before installing. . .

12. Install a new O-ring on the water pump, and coat the O-ring with an anti-seizing compound. 13. Slide the water pump into the engine block until it is seated. 14. Coat the threads of the water pump-toengine block mounting fasteners with an anti-seizing compound. 15. Tighten and torque the fasteners in two Steps using a crisscross pattern, as follows: ¢ M6: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) e M7: 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) ¢ M8: 15 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) 16. The balance of installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 17. Fill the cooling system using a 5%o mixture of an approved coolant and if available distilled water. DO NOT exceed a mixture of greater than 60 % coolant to water. 18. Bleed the cooling system as necessary. Squeezing and releasing the lower radiator hose will help to force out trapped air pockets.

19. Upon completion, check for fluid leaks and normal operation. 20. After the engine has reached operating temperature, allow to cool, recheck the coolant level and top off as necessary,

Cylinder Head

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The components of the cylinder head and the mating surface of the cylinder head and engine block are machined within very precise tolerances. The components must be thoroughly cleaned, inspected and if necessary properly lubricated upon installation. Refer to the Engine Reconditioning information in this section for additional information.

*t¢ WARNING A camshaft removal tool should be used when removing the camshafts from the M42 engine and all E36 6-cylinder engines. Failure to use the proper tool or its equivalent

could result in camshaft breakage. - Both acamshaft and a crankshaft alignment sary when reinstalling the

e cylinder head of BMW M42

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90963P44

Fig. 116. . . also coat the water pumpto-engine block fasteners with an antiseizing compound before installing

The cylinder head bolts used on E36 6-cylinder engines with a cast iron block are a different length and torque specification than those used on E36 6-cylinder engines with a cast aluminum block and must not be interchanged!

$14 Engine

> See Figure 117 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the splash guard from under the engine. Put drain pans underneath and remove the drain plugs from both the radiator and block to drain all coolant. 2. Loosen the hose clamps for the air intake hose located next to the radiator and then remove the hose. Disconnect the electrical connectors for the airflow sensor. Then, remove the attaching nuts and remove the air cleaner/ airflow sensor unit. 3. Disconnect the accelerator and cruise control cables. Unbolt the cable mounting bracket and move the cables and bracket aside. 4. Remove the attaching nut, pull off the clamp, and then detach the vacuum hose from the brake booster. 5. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the air intake hose from the intake manifold. Remove the nut from the manifold brace. 6. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the other end of the booster vacuum hose at the manifold. Remove the nut from the intake manifold brace. 7. Loosen the hose clamp and disconnect the air intake hose at the manifold. Then, remove the nuts attaching the manifold assembly to the outer ends of the intake throttle necks and remove the assembly. 8. Puta drain pan underneath and loosen the hose clamps and disconnect the coolant expansion tank hoses. Disconnect the engine ground strap. 9. Disconnect the ignition coil high tension lead. Label and then disconnect the plugs on the front of the block. Remove the nut fastening the lead farther forward of the plugs and move the lead aside o it will not interfere with cylinder head removal. 10. Find the vacuum hose leading to the fuel pressure regulator. Pull it off. Label and then disconnect the 2 plugs. Unscrew the mounting screw for the electrical lead connecting with the top of the

block and remove the lead and its carrier.

Fig. 117 Cylinder head bolt torque sequence—S14 engine

11. There is a vacuum hose connecting with one of the throttle necks. Disconnect it and pull it out of the intake manifold bracket. Pull off the electrical connector. Pull out the rubber retainer, and then pull the idle speed control out and put it aside. The engine wiring harness is located nearby. Take it out of its carriers. 12. All the fuel injectors are plugged into a common plate. Carefully and evenly pull the plate off the injectors, pull it out past the pressure regulator, and lay it aside. 13. Loosen the clamp and then disconnect the PCV hose. Label and then disconnect the fuel lines connecting with the injector circuit. Put a drain pan underneath and then disconnect the heater hose from the cylinder head. 14. Loosen the clamp near the throttle necks and then pull the engine wiring harness out and put it aside. Put a drain pan underneath and then disconnect the heater hose that connects to the block. 15. Remove the bolts from the flanges connecting the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifold. Provide new gaskets and self-locking nuts. Disconnect the oxygen sensor plug. 16. Put a drain pan underneath and then disconnect the radiator hoses from the pipe at the front of the block. 17. Pull off the spark plug connectors. Remove the nuts from the camshaft cover, located just to one side of the row of spark plugs. Remove the ignition lead tube. Remove the remaining nuts and remove the camshaft cover. Provide new gaskets. 18. It is not necessary to remove the timing chain completely, but it is necessary to remove the camshaft cover, front covers for the camshaft drive sprockets, the upper guide rail for the timing chain and then turn the engine to the Top Dead Center (TDC) firing position for cylinder number 1. 19. Remove the timing chain tensioner. Note the — relationship between the chain and both the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, and then remove both camshaft drive sprockets. Leave the chain in a position that will not interfere with removal of the head and which will minimize disturbing its routing through the areas on the front of the block. 20. Remove the camshafts. Use care to remove the camshaft followers one at a time, keeping them in exact order for installation in the same positions.

>The camshaft caps and followers must be kept in order to ensure proper reinstallation.

21. Remove the bolts, some are accessible

from below, that retain the timing case to the head d

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ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

at the front, the timing case houses the lifters and the camshaft lower bearing saddles. Note that one bolt, on the right side of the vehicle, is longer and retains the shaft for the upper timing chain tensioning rail. 22. Remove the coolant pipe that runs along the

left rear of the block. Remove one bolt at the left front of the block that is located outside the camshaft cover. Then, go along in the area under the camshaft cover and remove all the remaining bolts for the timing case. Remove the timing case. 23. Remove the hex bolts fastening the head to the block at the front. These are located outside the camshaft cover and just behind the water pump drive belt. Then, using three loosening steps, remove the head bolts located under the camshaft cover in reverse order of the cylinder head torque sequence. To install: 24. BMW does not recommend machining the head. Make checks of the lower cylinder head and block deck surface to make sure they are true. Clean both cylinder head and block sealing surfaces thoroughly. Lubricate the head bolts with a light coating of engine oil. Make sure there is no oil or dirt in the bolt holes in the block. Install a new head gasket, making sure all bolt, oil, and coolant holes line up. Install the bolts as follows: a. Step 1: Torque following the tightening sequence to 36.8-38.3 ft. Ibs. (50-52 Nm). b. Step 2: Torque following the tightening sequence to 57-60.4 ft. Ibs. (80-82 Nm). c. Step 3: Wait 15 minutes, then torque in sequence to 73.7—75.2 ft. Ibs. (100-102 Nm). 25. Be sure to reinstall the bolts that go outside the cylinder head cover and fasten the front of the head to the block at front and rear. 26. BMW recommends checking the fit of each tappet in the timing case, by performing the following procedure: a. Measure a tappet’s outside diameter with a micrometer. Then, zero an inside micrometer at this exact dimension. b. Then, use the inside micrometer to measure the tappet bore that corresponds to this particular tappet. If the resulting measurement is 0.0001—0.0026 inch the tappet may be reused. If it is worn past this dimension, replace it with a new one. If the tappet is being replaced, repeat steps a and b to make sure it will now meet specifications. If the bore were to be worn so much that even a new tappet would not restore clearance to specification, it would be necessary to replace the timing case. c. Repeat for all the remaining tappets. Make sure to measure each tappet and its corresponding bore only. 27. The remaining steps of installation are the reverse of the removal procedure. Note the following: 28. Before remounting the timing case, replace the O-ring in the oil passage located at the left front of the block. Also, check the O-rings in the tops of _ the spark plug bores and replace these as neces-

sa ry. 29. Install the timing case and torque the bolts in several stages. The smaller (M7) bolts are ~ torqued to 10-12ft. Ibs. (14-16 Nm); the larger (M8) bolts are torqued to 14-15 ft. Ibs. (19-21 ).Install each tappet back into the same bore. _ 30. When bolting the,exhaust pipes to the ~~ nl

;

flange at the manifold, use new gaskets and selflocking nuts and torque the nuts to 36 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm). 31. When reinstalling the intake manifold, check and, if necessary, replace the O-rings where the manifold tubes connect to the throttle necks. Torque the nuts to 71 inch Ibs. (8 Nm). 32. Fill the cooling system with the proper mixture of coolant and bleed as necessary. 33. Check and top off all fluid levels as needed. M20 Engine

» See Figures 118 and 119 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Make sure the engine is cool. Disconnect the exhaust pipes at the manifold and at the transmission clamp. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator and drain the coolant. Drain the engine oil. 2. Disconnect the accelerator and cruise con-

trol cables. If the vehicle has automatic transmission, disconnect the throttle cable that goes to the transmission. 3. Working at the front of the block, disconnect the upper radiator hose, the bypass water hose, and several smaller water hoses. Remove the diagnosis plug located at the front corner of the manifold. Remove the bracket located just underneath. Disconnect the fuel line and drain the contents into a metal container for safe disposal. 4. Working on the air cleaner/airflow sensor, disconnect the vacuum hoses, labeling them if necessary. Disconnect all electrical connectors and unclip and remove the wiring harness. There is a relay located in an L-shaped box near the strut tower. Disconnect and remove it. Unclamp and remove the air hose. Remove the mounting nuts and remove the assembly. 5. Disconnect the hose at the coolant overflow tank. Disconnect the idle speed positioner vacuum hose and then remove the positioner from the manifold. 6. If equipped with 4-wheel drive, disconnect the vacuum hose from the servo mounted on the manifold. 7. Place a drain pan underneath and then disconnect the water connections at the front of the intake manifold. Detach the electrical connector. 8. Disconnect the heater water hoses. Press down on the vent tube collar and install the special tool or a similar device to retain the collar in the unlocked position. Disconnect the vent tube and inspect its O-ring seal, replacing it, if necessary. 9. Unbolt the dipstick tube at the manifold. Remove the fuel hose bracket at the cylinder head. Make sure the engine is cold. Then, place a metal container under the connection and disconnect the fuel hose at the connection. 10. Disconnect the high tension lead from the coil. Disconnect and remove the coolant expansion tank. 11. If equipped with 4-wheel drive, disconnect the intake manifold vacuum hose leading the servo that engages 4-wheel drive. 12. Detach the fuel injector connectors from all 6 injectors, as well as the 2 additional electrical connectors to sensors on the head. Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit connector. Then, unfasten the carriers and remove this wiring harness toward

the left side of the vehicle.

13. Disconnect theien| high

tension

disconnect the high tension wires at the plugs. Then, disconnect the tube in which the wires run at the camshaft cover. Disconnect the PCV hose. Then, remove the retaining nuts and remove the camshaft cover. 14. Turn the crankshaft so the TDC line is aligned on the indicator and the valves of No. 6 cylinder are in overlapping, slightly open position. 15. Remove the distributor cap. Then, unscrew and remove the rotor. Unscrew and remove the adapter just underneath the rotor. Remove the cover underneath the adapter. Check its O-ring and replace it, if necessary. 16. Remove the distributor mounting bolts and the protective cover. 17. These engines are equipped on a rubber drive and timing belt. Remove the belt covers. To loosen belt tension, loosen the tension roller bracket pivot bolt and adjusting slot bolt. Push the roller and bracket away from the belt to release the tension, hold the bracket in this position, and tighten the adjusting slot bolt to retain the bracket it this position. 18. Remove the timing belt. e>Make sure to avoid rotating both the engine and camshaft from this point onward

19. Remove the cylinder head mounting bolts in three steps using the exact reverse order of the tightening sequence. Then, remove the cylinder head. To install: 20. Clean both cylinder head and block sealing surfaces thoroughly with a hardwood scraper. Inspect the surfaces for flatness. 21. Install the cylinder head using a new gasket. Check that all passages line up with the gasket holes. Make sure all the bolt cavities are thoroughly cleaned and free of debris. Make sure to keep oil out of all the bolt cavities otherwise cracking may occur and/or the cylinder head torque will be inaccurate.

84273048

Fig. 118 To release the vent tube on the M20 engine, the collar must be held down with Tool No. 11 1 290 or equivalent

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL ES

LAT

22. The cylinder head must be installed using new Torx® head fasteners. Before installing the cylinder head bolts, carefully wash and oil them. New Torx® head fasteners are required for cylinder head installation. Neither the Torx® head or the hex head fasteners can be reused.

23. Tighten the Torx® head cylinder head-toengine block bolts as follows: a. Step 1: 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm) following the cylinder head tightening sequence

b. Step 2: Tighten 90° following the tightening sequence

c. Step 3: Tighten and additional 90° following the tightening sequence e>With the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke, make sure to align the timing marks when installing the timing belt. The crankshaft sprocket mark must point at the notch in the flange of the front engine cover. The camshaft sprocket arrow must point at the alignment mark on the cylinder head. BMW recommends that the timing belt be replaced every time the cylinder head is removed and/or the belt is disturbed. Make sure the belt is properly tensioned.

24. Check and adjust the valves as necessary. 25. Complete the installation by reversing all removal procedures making sure of the following. 26. Change the engine oil and filter. 27. Top off the cooling system with the proper mixture of coolant and bleed as necessary. 28. Use new gaskets for the exhaust system connections, and coat the studs with an anti-seizing compound. 29. Install the connectors for the DME reference mark and speed signals such that the gray plug goes to the socket with a ring underneath. 30. Check and top off all fluid levels. 31. Connect the negative battery cable and check for normal operation. M42 Engine

» See Figure 120 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the intake manifold and the exhaust manifold as outlined in this section. 3. Remove the ignition coil cover and pull off the spark plug connectors. 4. Remove the complete ignition leads. Remove the cylinder head cover. 5. Disconnect the coolant hoses and remove the position sensor. 6. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat. Unscrew the upper timing case cover. 7. Rotate the engine clockwise until the camshaft peaks of the intake and exhaust camshafts for cylinder No. 1 face each other. The arrows on the camshaft sprockets should be facing up.

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8. Remove the chain tensioner. Remove the upper chain guide, chain guide bolt on the right side and the sprockets. 9. Remove the cylinder head bolts in three steps in the opposite order of the tightening

sequence. 10. Remove the cylinder head. Clean the sealing surfaces on the cylinder head and the crankcase. To install: 11. Clean the new head bolts and the bores of the cylinder block. Do not allow oil or contaminants to fill the bores. Use a 0.012 inch (0.3mm) thicker head gasket if the head was machined. 12. Before installing the cylinder head; a. Make sure the camshafts are positioned in the cylinder head such that the camshaft is in the Top Dead Center (TDC) position for the compression stroke for cylinder number 1. In this position, the tips of the camshaft lobes for cylinder number 1 are pointing toward one another and the alignment tool No. 11 3 240 or its equivalent can be placed into position. b. Install a new head gasket in the proper orientation as marked on the gasket. Check the condition of the guide dowels in the cylinder deck. c. Install new seals into the top of the front timing case. d. On M42 engines produced since 9/92, make sure the check valve with the rubber lined spacing sleeve for the oil supply to the cylinder head is properly installed into the engine block.

An improperly installed check valve will cause mechanical damage to the cylinder head. e>New cylinder head bolts must be installed, they cannot be reused.

13. Thoroughly wash the new cylinder head bolts and lubricate them with fresh engine oil. 14. Place the cylinder head onto the engine block and torque the cylinder head bolts in three steps following the illustrated tightening sequence as follows: a. Step 1: 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm) b. Step 2: 90° c. Step 3: 90° During cylinder head or camshaft installation a waiting period is necessary before the camshaft timing chain can be installed to allow the hydraulic lash adjusters to bleed down and prevent the valves from contacting the pistons.

15. Ifthe camshafts were removed and installed while the cylinder head was removed, or if the camshafts are to be installed after the cylinder head is installed, a waiting period is necessary before the camshaft timing can be performed to allow the hydraulic lash adjusters to bleed down and prevent the valves from contacting the pistons. * The waiting period varies depending on the work environment's ambient air temperature. The waiting period is as follows:

¢ Above 68°F (20°C): 4 minutes © 50-67°F (10-19.4°C): 11 minutes © 32-49°F (0-9.4°C): 30 minutes

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16. Once the proper waiting period has been observed, install the camshaft alignment Tool No. 11 3 240 or its equivalent. This positions the camshafts at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the firing stroke for cylinder number 1, and the arrows on the camshaft sprockets should be facing up. If the camshaft sprockets were removed, install the sprockets with the arrows pointing up and torque to 10-12 ft. Ibs. (13-17 Nm), 17. Pull upward and support the timing chain by hand and slowly rotate the crankshaft clockwise until cylinder number 1 is at TDC. 18. Secure the engine at TDC by installing Too! No. 11 2 300 or its equivalent through the machined hole in the engine block, and into the flywheel. The machined hole in the engine block is located just below the starter motor, and is sealed with a removable plug. 19. Install the timing chain, timing guide bolt on the right side and the upper chain guide. 20. If not installing a new tensioner piston, knock the outer sleeve of the tensioner piston so the piston is released from the sleeve. Assemble the tensioner with the spring, the piston and the snaprings in position. Place in a vice and press together until both snaprings engage. If the piston starts to extend, the procedure must be done again. The compressed tensioner length should be 2.697 inches (68.5mm). 21. Install the tensioner into its bore and tighten the plug to 17-19 ft. Ibs. (23-27 Nm). Push the tensioner rail against the tensioner to release the tensioner piston. 22. Remove the camshaft and crankshaft alignment tools. Install the front timing upper cover using new gaskets filling the seam gaps with a suitable non hardening sealer. Press down on the cover to align it with a the cylinder head. Install the bolts and torque to 53-62 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm) for M6 bolts and 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-22 Nm) for M8 bolts. 23. Install the thermostat housing using a new gasket and torque to 53-62 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). e>WMake sure the vent hole on the thermostat

faces up.

24. Install the camshaft position sensor. 25. The balance of installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 26. Fill and bleed the cooling system with the proper mixture of coolant.

27. Change the engine oil and filter.

28. Check and top off all fluid levels. 29. Connect the negative battery cable and check for normal operation. M44 Engine

» See Figures 121 thru 127 1. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

@Q © O® © fran OY OOO® Fig. 121 Cylinder head tightening sequence—M44 1.9L engines

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ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL ©

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Fig. 122 The camshaft sprocket timing marks are stamped into the sprockets— M44 engine

90963604

starter motor—M44 engine shown

Fig. 124 The crankshaft is held at TDC by inserting Tool No. 11 2 300 or its equivalent through the engine block and into the flywheel—all E36 engines

Fig. 126 The camshafts are held at TDC by installing Tool No. 11 3 240 or its equivalent onto the rear of the cylinder head—all E36 engines

sequence—M44 engine

Fig. 123 The crankshaft Top Dead Center (TDC) alignment hole is on the lower left side of the engine block just below the

~90963PD0. Fig. 125 The camshafts are at TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder no. 1 when the dimples are facing up and the machined surface parallel with the cylinder head—all E36 engines 3. Drain the engine coolant from the radiator and the engine block into a sealable container. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 5. Separate the front pipe from the exhaust manifold. 6. Carefully lower the vehicle. 7. Remove the intake manifold as outlined in this section. 8. Remove the ignition coil cover and remove the spark plug connectors. 9. Remove the all the fasteners securing the brackets for the ignition coil wire harness, then move the harness aside to access the cylinder head cover. 10. Remove the valve (cylinder head) cover as outlined in this section. 11. Disconnect the coolant hoses and remove the temperature sensor. 12. Remove the thermostat housing and thermostat. Remove the upper timing case cover. 13. Rotate the engine clockwise to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the firing stroke for cylinder number 1. In this position, the camshaft peaks of the intake and exhaust camshafts for cylinder No. 1 face each other. The arrows on the cam sprocket should face up and the dimples on the machined surface at the rear of the camshafts should be facing up. 14. Remove the chain tensioner. 15. Install Too! No. 11 3 240 or its equivalent and remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and Sprockets.

16. Release the slide rail located close to the .

r fastener of the intake camshaft bolt hole. 17. Turn the adjustment screw for the slide rail toka two revolutions.

18. Support the timing chain and carefully turn the engine counterclockwise approximately 45 ° using the crankshaft pulley bolt. 19. Remove the cylinder head bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence (from the outside to the inside) in at least three steps. 20. Remove the cylinder head and clean the gasket mating surfaces on the cylinder head and the engine block. To install: 21. Inspect the two locating dowels and make sure they are correctly installed. 22. Install a new cylinder head gasket onto the engine block and rubber timing cover seal. 23. Install the cylinder head onto the engine using care to not damage the new gasket. 24. Do not reuse the cylinder head bolts. Wash and oil the new bolts and tighten them following the tightening sequence in three steps as follows: a. Step 1: 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm) b. Step 2: 90° c. Step 3: 90° 25. Adjust the slide rail adjusting screw such that the slide rail is free of play. 26. Install the slide rail lock screw to secure the

Slide rail.

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27. Install Tool No. 11 3 240 or its equivalent to secure the camshaft such that the peaks of the intake and exhaust camshafts for cylinder No. 1 face each other. The dimples on the machined surface at the rear of the camshafts should be facing up. 28. Remove the plug for the crankshaft Top Dead Center (TDC) alignment hole located in the ab blockbeeninln the cae ; 0D

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Fig. 127 Cylinder head bolt tightening

der number 1 to TDC, and secure the crankshaft in this position by inserting Tool No. 11 2 300 or its equivalent through the engine block and into the flywheel.

Do not forget to remove the crankshaft alignment tool before starting the engine!

30. Install the timing chain onto the camshaft sprockets an install the sprockets onto the camshafts, making sure the timing marks on the sprockets face up and install the camshaft sprocket bolts finger tight onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket. 31. Install the sensor gear onto the intake camshaft sprocket and install the sprocket bolts finger tight. The sprockets should be able to move, but should have no free play at this time. 32. Collapse the hydraulic chain tensioner before installing as follows:

a. Drain the oil chamber of the tensioner. b. Place the tensioner in a vice using soft protective jaws or wooden paint stirrers to avoid damaging the machined surface.

c. Compress the tensioner slowly, and carefully compress it until the snapring isalmost even with the outer housing. Repeat this com-

pression procedure a second time.

33. Install the tensioner and ing washer, install andbee

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL rl

35. Fill the engine cooling system with the recommended mixture of coolant and bleed as necessary. eit may be necessary to bleed the cooling system a second time after the engine has been started.

36. Change the engine oil and filter assembly. 37. Check all fluid levels and top off as necessary. 38. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and inspect for any fuel, vacuum or coolant leaks.

E36 6-Cylinder Engines > See Figures 124, 125, 126 and 128 1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Before proceeding with the cylinder head removal be sure the engine has cooled sufficiently. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 5. Remove the lower engine splash shield. 6. Disconnect the exhaust manifolds from the exhaust pipes. 7. Drain the engine coolant from the radiator and the engine block into a sealable container. The engine block drain plug is located on the right side of the block near the rear exhaust manifold, just below the exhaust ports for cylinder numbers four and five. 8. Remove the rear hood seal, then remove the fasteners securing the sealed plastic housing for the engine wiring harness from the passenger compartment fresh air intake shroud. 9. Remove the fasteners securing the fresh air intake shroud to the fire wall, and remove the Cs shroud. 10. If equipped, remove the plastic trim covers from the top of the engine. 11. Disconnect the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and remove intake manifold air duct along with the air filter housing assembly. 12. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body linkage, disconnect the coolant hoses, the Throttle Position (TP) sensor electrical connector, the throttle body mounting fasteners, and remove the throttle body assembly. Cover the opening of the intake manifold to prevent any debris from entering. 13. Remove the intake manifold support bracket fasteners from the intake manifold and loosen the support bracket fasteners on the engine block. 14. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines and make note of their location for reassembly. 15. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the: intake manifold, and loosen the clamps for the idle speed stabilizer underneath the manifold, and disconnect the hoses. 16. Remove the intake manifold intake port fasteners and carefully lift the manifold away from the engine. Cover the intake ports to ensure that no debris enters the ports. 17. Remove the ground cable at the front of the cylinder head, then remove the two radiator hoses _ from the thermostat housing, and remove the hous-

ing.

Remove the exhaust manifolds. the wire connectors for theRanting

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20. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation to Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder number one. Cylinder number one will be at TDC when the intake and exhaust camshaft peaks for cylinder number one face each other 21. Lock the engine in the TDC position by placing the crankshaft alignment tool No. 11 2 300 through the machined hole in the engine block, just below the starter motor located on the left lower

portion of the engine block. Slide the alignment tool through the machined hole in the block and into the machined hole in the flywheel to prevent movement

of the crankshaft. 22. The camshafts are held in the TDC position by placing tool No. 11 3 240 or equivalent on the valve cover mating surface at the back of the cylinder head and onto the squared ends of the camshafts, securing the camshafts such that two sides of the squared ends are parallel with the cam cover gasket mating surface. With the camshafts in this position, the arrows on the sprockets will be facing up. 23. Remove the valve cover mounting studs. 24. Remove the two hex plugs at the front of the cylinder head to access the exhaust camshaft sprocket mounting bolts, then loosen the exhaust cam sprocket bolts two turns. 25. Press down on the secondary cam chain tensioner between the two camshaft sprockets and install tool No. 11-3-292 or equivalent through the back side of the tensioner housing to hold the tensioner down. A similar sized and suitably hardened drill bit can be substituted for tool No. 11 3 292. 26. If equipped with the hydraulic variable camshaft contro! system (VANOS) a. Remove the fasteners from the front of the cylinder head securing VANOS unit to the cylinder head. b. Disconnect the hydraulic lines and sensor connectors from the VANOS unit. c. On VANOS equipped engines with a spring plate installed on the intake camshaft, place sprocket tool No. 11 5 490 or equivalent onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket and carefully rotate the sprocket clockwise to allow the helical gear of the VANOS unit to be released from the intake camshaft and to allow the VANOS unit to be pulled away from the front of the cylinder head. On models without a spring plate, the VANOS unit can be removed without the use of the special tool. d. If tool No, 11 5 490 or equivalent is not available, move the camshaft sprockets to release the VANOS by using a suitable drift and soft faced mallet and lightly tapping on a sprocket tooth of the intake cam sprocket to rotate both cam sprockets clockwise, while alternately pulling on the VANOS unit to release it. This procedure may need to be repeated several times to fully release the VANOS unit, and must be performed very carefully, in such a manner to not distort or damage the teeth of the cam sprocket. 27. Remove the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets, the hydraulic cam chain tensioner, and the cam chain guide. 28. From the side of the right front area of the engine, remove the cap nut for the cam chain ten‘sioner for the cam chain that runs between the crankshaft and the exhaust camshaft sprocket. Use care when removing the tensioner cap nut as the cam tensioner spring applies pressure to the cap nut. 29. Remove the exhaust cam tensioner, and then release the sprocket from the cam chain.

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30. Attach a wire tie or mechanic's wire to the cam chain and temporarily secure the chain fully extended. 31. Remove the crankshaft alignment tool from the engine and flywheel locking the engine in the TDC position. 32. While holding the crankshaft to exhaust camshaft cam chain, rotate the engine 30° counterclockwise to avoid damaging the valves during cylinder head removal and reinstallation. 33. With the attached wire tie or mechanic's wire secured to the cam chain, carefully lower the chain downward making sure there is enough exposed wire to retrieve the chain for reinstallation. 34. Remove the fasteners located in a recessed area near the front of the camshafts securing the front of the cylinder head to the engine block. 35. In the reverse order of the tightening sequence, using a proper sized Torx® bit or tool No. 11 2 250, loosen the cylinder head mounting bolts in three steps as follows: e Step 1: 90° e Step 2: 90° ¢ Step 3: Completely remove the bolt 36. With all of the cylinder head bolts removed, verify that all electrical connectors and fluid lines have been removed and lift the cylinder head off the engine block. >It is not recommended to machine the cylinder head surface of the $52 engine. If machining the cylinder head of an M52 engine, a 0.012 inch (0.3mm) thicker head gasket is available for reassembly.

To install: 37. Thoroughly clean the deck surface of the engine cylinder block and the cylinder head surface. 38. If the camshafts have been removed and reinstalled a waiting period dependent on the ambient temperature is necessary before mounting the cylinder head on the engine to allow the lifters to compress fully as follows: e Atroom temperature: Wait 4 minutes e Temperatures down to 50° F (10° C): Wait 11 minutes e Temperatures lower than 50° F (10° C): Wait 30 minutes

»This is to prevent contact between the valves

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and the piston tops.

>

39. The engine may not be cranked under the same condition for a period of: e Room temperature: 10 minutes

i

e Temperatures down to 50° F (10° C): 30 minutes ¢ Temperatures below 50° F (10° C): 75 minutes

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Fig. 128 Cylinder head mounting bolt tightening sequence—E36 models with6-

cylinder engines

3-34 TS

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ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL RE

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40. Check the cylinder head for warpage and pressure test for coolant leakage.

Use care to not drop any pieces of gasket or debris into the oil or coolant passages. 41. Inspect the condition and location of the head locating dowel sleeves. 42. Apply a bead of an elastic non-drying gasket sealant such as Drei Bond® 1209 to the seam at the top of the area where the front timing cover and the engine block meet. 43. Place a new head gasket on the engine block over the locating dowels. 44. Carefully place the cylinder head onto the

engine block making sure the dowel sleeves are properly aligned and be sure that the head sits flat on the engine block.

The cylinder head bolts may not be reused. >The bolts are a different length and have a different torque specification for aluminum engine blocks than those for the cast iron engine blocks.

45. Install and torque the new cylinder head bolts in three steps, following the illustrated tightening sequence. 46. On cast iron engine blocks: a. Wash the bolts in a cleaning solvent. b. Apply a light coating of oil to the head and threads of the bolts. c. Torque the M10 x 95mm bolts for cast iron engine blocks using the tightening sequence as follows: e Step 1: 22.1 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm) e Step 2: 90° e Step 3: 90° 47. On cast aluminum engine blocks: a. DO NOT remove the coating on the head bolts or wash them. b. Apply a light coating of oil to the head and threads of the bolts. c. Torque the M10 x 110mm bolts for cast aluminum engine blocks using the tightening sequence as follows: e Step 1: 29.5 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm). e Step 2: 90°. ¢ Step 3: 90°. 48. Install the fasteners located in the recessed area near the front of the camshafts securing the front of the cylinder head to the engine block and torque to 96 inch Ibs. (10 Nm). 49. With the attached wire secured to the crankshaft cam chain, carefully raise the chain upward and apply a light tension to the chain, then while _ holding the chain, carefully rotate the engine clockwise to TDC on cylinder number one. 50. Lock the engine in the TDC position by placing the crankshaft positioning tool No. 11 2 300 through the machined hole in the engine block, just Delow the starter motor located on the left lower portion of the engine block. Slide the locating dowel through the machined hole in the block and into the 12__machined hole in the flywheel to prevent movement f.:of the crankshaft. 51. Hold the camshafts TDC position by placing oe No. 11 3 240 or equivalent on the valve cover

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mating surface at the back of the cylinder head and onto the squared ends of the camshafts, securing the camshafts such that two sides of the squared ends are parallel with the cam cover gasket mating surface. With the camshafts in this position, the arrows on the sprockets will be facing up. 52. Position the crankshaft cam chain over the exhaust cam chain sprocket and install the sprocket on the exhaust cam such that the slotted holes are centered with the fastener bores in the camshaft. 53. Install the hydraulic cam chain tensioner, and the cam chain guide, then the intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets along with the cam chain and remove the tool used to hold the hydraulic cam chain tensioner collapsed. 54. Install the crankshaft cam chain tensioner assembly, spring and cap nut. 55. Apply gasket sealant to the upper corners of the cylinder head where the cover plate or the VANOS housing mounts and install a new gasket. 56. On models equipped with VANOS ; a. Press the helical gear of the VANOS assembly toward the housing and install the VANOS assembly. On engines with a spring plate installed on the intake camshaft, place tool No. 11-5-490 or equivalent onto the exhaust camshaft sprocket and carefully rotate the sprocket counterclockwise to allow the helical gear of the VANOS unit to thread into the intake camshaft and to allow the VANOS unit to be pulled into the front of thé cylinder head. b. If tool No. 11-5-490 or equivalent is not available, move the camshaft sprockets to install the VANOS by using a suitable drift and soft faced mallet and lightly tapping on a sprocket tooth of the exhaust cam sprocket to rotate both cam sprockets counterclockwise, while alternately pressing on the VANOS unit to install it. This procedure may need to be repeated several times to fully install the VANOS unit, and must be performed very carefully, in such a manner to not distort or damage the teeth of the cam sprocket. e>Make sure when assembling the VANOS unit is able to rest on the front of the cylinder head without being forced or without binding. If the VANOS unit does not fully seat it may be necessary to reposition the camshaft sprockets such that the slots in the camshaft sprockets allow enough movement of the sprockets for the helical gear of the VANOS assembly to be fully seated during assembly.

c. Tighten the VANOS unit fastener and then

torque the camshaft sprocket bolts of both the intake and exhaust cams to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm). 57. Remove the crankshaft TDC alignment tool No. 113240 or equivalent from the engine, and remove the camshaft TDC positioning tool No. 113 240 or equivalent from the valve cover mating surface at the back of the cylinder head.

+ WARNING If the camshafts have been removed and reinstalled, a waiting period dependent on the ambient temperature is necessary before rotating the crankshaft to allow the lifters to fully compress. 58. The engine may not be cranked under these conditions for a period of: e hagieltemperature: ie Hua heey bat

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¢ Temperatures down to 50° F (10° C): 30 minutes e Temperatures below 50° F (10° C): 75 minutes This is to prevent contact between the valves and the piston tops.

59. Once the waiting period has expired, slowly and carefully rotate the engine clockwise four complete revolutions bringing cylinder number one to TDC. If the engine binds for any reason stop immediately to evaluate and rectify the cause of the binding. 60. With cylinder number one at TDC slide the camshaft TDC positioning tool No. 11-3-240 or equivalent over the ends of the cams and onto the valve cover mating surface. If the tool slides over the cams and is flush with the mating surface, the camshafts are properly timed. If the tool does not slide easily over the ends of the cams, or if the tool is not flush with the valve cover mating surface, the camshaft timing must be repeated until the tool fits squarely. 61. The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. 62. Top off the engine cooling system and bleed as necessary. e>it may be necessary to bleed the cooling system a second time after the engine has been started.

63. Change the engine oil and filter. 64. Check and top off all fluid levels as neces-

sary. 65. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for any leaks.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION $14 Engine 1. Remove the engine oil dipstick. Remove the splash guard from underneath the engine. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil. Unscrew all the bolts for the lower oil pan and remove it. 3. Remove the oil pump. 4. Remove the lower flywheel housing cover by removing the 3 bolts at the bottom of the flywheel housing and the 2 bolts in the cover just ahead of the flywheel housing. 5. Disconnect the oil pressure sending unit plug. Unbolt the oil pan bracket. Disconnect the ground lead. Loosen its clamp and disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose. 6. Remove the oil pan bolts and remove the upper oil pan. Clean all sealing surfaces. To install: 7. Supply a new gasket and the coat the joints where the timing case cover and block meet with a ‘brush-on sealant. Install the pan and torque the bolts evenly to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).

8. Reverse the remaining removal procedures to

install, cleaning all sealing surfaces new gasket on the lower pan,also pan bolts, also, to 7 ft. Ibs. (10!

“5

.

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL aS

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ft. bs. (33 Nm). Refill the oil pan with the required

M42 Engine

amount of approved oil. Start the engine and check for leaks.

> See Figures 129 and 130

M20 Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise the vehicle and support it. Drain the engine oil. On the 325iX remove the front subframe and differential. 2. Remove the front lower splash guard, if nec-

essary. 3. Disconnect the electrical terminal from the oil sending unit. 4. Remove the power steering gear from the

front axle carrier. 5. Remove the flywheel cover reinforcement. 6. Remove the oil pan bolts and lower the oil pan. Remove the oil pump bolts and take out the oil pump and oil pan. To install: 7. Install the oil pan, paying attention to the following points: a. Clean the gasket surfaces and use a new gasket on the oil pan. b. Torque M8 bolts to 13-15 ft. Ibs. (18-22 Nm) and M6 bolts to 80-97 inch Ibs. (9-11 Nm). c. Coat the joints on the ends of the front engine cover with a non-hardening sealing compound. d. Install the sending unit wire and the engine oil. If the power steering gear was removed, make sure to refill and bleed this system.

Fig. 129 Lower oil pan mounting bolts— M42 engine

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1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil into a sealable container. Disconnect the air cleaner and the heater hoses at the firewall. Remove the fan and fan cowl. Remove the dipstick tube and idle speed control. 3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold and at the transmission mount. Disconnect the engine mounts. Disconnect the power steering pump and the reservoir at the support arm. 4. Carefully lift the engine to provide clearance for the pan removal. Remove the lower oil pan mounting bolts and take off the lower oil pan. Remove the upper section oil pan bolts and the oil pump intake. Remove the upper oil pan. 5. Clean the mounting surfaces and install a new gasket. Fill the holes at the corners of the gasket where the covers, block and pan join with nonhardening sealant. 6. The installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the upper pan, then the lower pan. Tighten both the upper and lower oil pan mounting bolts to 80 inch Ibs. (9 Nm). M44 Engine

» See Figures 131 and 132 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Drain the engine oil into a sealable container. 3. Disconnect the exhaust pipe, if necessary. 4. Remove the lower oil pan mounting bolts and take off the lower oil pan. Remove the upper section oil pan bolts and remove the upper oil pan. To install: 5. Clean the mounting surfaces and install new gaskets. 6. Position the oil pan against the engine and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 80 inch Ibs. (9 Nm). 7. Install the exhaust pipe, if removed. 8. Install and tighten the oil pan drain plug, then fill the engine with the correct viscosity and amount of clean engine oil. 9. Lower the vehicle and connect the negative battery cable. 10. Start the engine and check that oil pressure is present; if the oil pressure lamp does not extin-

Fig. 131 The control arm fastener is located next to the engine mount—E36

} models

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3-35 e

guish within 5-7 seconds of starting the engine, turn the engine OFF. 11. Once started, check for any oil leaks.

90968P13

per oil pan mounting bolts—

e

E36 6-Cylinder Engines > See Figures 131 and 132 e>lf an optional oil cooler has been added to the engine, the cooler may have to be removed from its mounts and supported.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove the oil dipstick tube mounting fastener, if equipped, remove the vent hose from the lower portion of the dipstick tube, then lift the dipstick tube upward to remove. Cover the hole in the oil pan to avoid debris from entering and inspect the O-ring and replace as necessary. 3. Unclip the power steering fluid lines from the front crossmember. 4. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 5. Attach a suitable engine lifting hoist to the lifting eye on the front of the engine and carefully lift the engine about %einches (5mm). 6. If installed, remove the engine splash guard. 7. Matchmark and disconnect the steering spindle from the steering gear. 8. Remove the engine drive belts, then remove the power steering pump from the engine leaving the lines attached, place aside and secure. 9. Remove the power steering fluid reservoir, and with the lines attached, place aside and secure. 10. Loosen the top engine mount fasteners, and remove the lower fasteners. f 11. Disconnect both lower control arms from the crossmember. 12. Drain the engine oil into a sealable container. 13. Support the crossmember with a suitable jack, and remove the crossmember mounting fasteners, then carefully lower the crossmember. 14. If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the oil pipes from the oil pan. 15. Remove the lower bell housing dust shield. 16. Remove the oil pan mounting fasteners, then lower the oil pan and move forward to remove. To install: 17. Clean all mounting surfaces. Apply nonhardening sealant to the seams of the block, cover and pan joints. Install a new gasket and place the pan into position.

18. Install the oil pan and torque the M8 bolts to 13-15 ft. Ibs. (18-22 Nm) and M6 bolts to 80-97 inch Ibs. (9-11 Nm).

oog6eria | Fig. 132 Once the fastener is removed,

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carefully remove the control arm from the =| crossmember—E36 models Set

3-36

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

19. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 20. Top off the engine oil using the recommended engine oil. 21. Connect the negative battery cable and enter the radio security code. 22. Check and top off all fluid levels, check for normal operation and fluid leaks and repair as necessary.

8. Install the oil pump and guide the driveshaft up into the drive gear and tighten the bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). 9. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of disassembly.

$14 Engine 1, Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the oil pan to expose the oil pump. 3. Remove the sprocket mounting nut by turning it clockwise and pull the sprocket from the shaft. e>The sprocket nut is a left hand thread.

4. Remove the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump support mounting bolts. 5. Lower the oil pump. To install: 6. Install the oil pump on the engine and tighten the pump-to-block bolts, then the support bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). 7. Place the pump drive chain around the drive sprocket and slide over the pump shaft. Tighten the nut by turning it counterclockwise to 18-21 ft. Ibs. (25-29 Nm). 8. Check the slack in the drive chain. The chain should have slight free-play when depressed on thumb pressure. 9. If the chain is too loose, add oil pump mounting shims as necessary between the pump and engine block mounting. The shims are available at your dealer or parts supplier. Be sure to match the bore in the shim with the bore in the block. 10. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of disassembly.

clockwise direction as it has left hand threads.

» See Figure 133

7. Install the oil pan. 8. Install and tighten the oil pan drain plug. 9. Lower the vehicle 10. Fill the engine with the correct viscosity and amount of clean engine oil. 11. Connect the negative battery cable. 12. Start the engine and check that oil pressure is present; if the oil pressure lamp does not extinguish within 5-7 seconds of starting the engine, turn the engine OFF. Check for any oil leaks.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. Drain the engine oil into a sealable container. 4. Remove the timing case cover. 5. Disconnect the oil pump cover mounting bolts and remove the oil pump assembly. To install: 6. Clean the oil pump mounting surfaces 7. Replace the gasket and install the timing case. Make sure the lubrication spray nozzle faces the bolt. 8. Install and tighten the oil pan drain plug. 9. Lower the vehicle 10. Fill the engine with the correct viscosity and amount of clean engine oil. 11. Connect the negative battery cable. 12. Start the engine and check that oil pressure is present; if the oil pressure lamp does not extinguish within 5-7 seconds of starting the engine, turn the engine OFF. Check for any oil leaks.

M20 Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the oil pan as outlined in this section to expose the oil pump. 3. Remove the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump support mounting bolts. 4. Lower the oil pump and the driveshaft. To install: 5. Inspect and if necessary, replace the oil pump driveshaft bearing as follows: a. Remove the clamp bolt holding the pump driveshaft. b. Pull the cover with the gear out of the

bore. Check the condition of the O-ring and replace if necessary. c. Use Tool No. 11 1 310 or equivalent, to drive out the needle bearing out through the top of the bore. d. Lubricate the new needle bearing with grease and install with Tool No. 11 1 300 or equivalent. Drive the bearing into the bore until

- _- fully seated. ~ 6. Install the gear and cover. 7.

Fill the oil pump pressure side with oil.

>The sprocket nut is tightened in a counter-

M42 and M44 Engines

e>The engine oil pump is located in the front engine housing.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

6. Install the oil pump drive sprocket onto the oil pump shaft, then install the oil pump drive sprocket nut by turning it counterclockwise to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

INSPECTION Except M42 And M44 Engines

Check that the oil pump turns freely and without binding. Check that the oil pump pickup screen is not clogged. Check the condition of the drive sprocket on chain driven pumps. While the pumps can be disassembled and checked for wear, it is more common to replace the oil pump if it has seen long service. Ifthe pump is to be disassembled, be sure that new gaskets are available before disassembling the pump body. If the drive sprocket is found to be worn as indicated by pointy teeth, replace the chain at the same time. The sprocket and the chain will wear at the same rate. In cases of severe wear, the crankshaft gear may need to be replaced also. This will require the crankshaft to be removed. Depress the oil pressure relief valve washer and remove the snapring. Measure the free length of the spring and check that the piston can move freely. The valve is contained in the body of the oil pump. Inspect the engine rod and main bearings. If either the crankshaft journals or the bearing journals show signs of excessive heat, grooving or excessive wear, replace the oil pump in addition to any other related worn components. M42 And M44 Engines

Fig. 133 Oil pump cover mounting bolts in the timing cover—M42 engine illustrated

E36 6-Cylinder Engines 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the oil pan as outlined in this section to access the oil pump drive sprocket. >The oil pump sprocket mounting nut is a left hand thread.

3. Remove the oil pump drive sprocket nut by turning it clockwise as it is a left-hand thread. Remove the oil pump drive sprocket from the oil pump shaft. Check the shaft splines. 4. Unbolt the oil pump body from the block and remove. Check the condition of the dowel sleeves. To install: 5. Clean the oil pump mounting surfaces, then position the oil pump on heengine. Installthe La

pur oy ou

to 16ft. Ibs.(22Nm).

> See Figure 134 1. With the timing case removed, remove the cover from the pump rotors. Make note of the posi- — tioning of the rotors.

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL 2. Measure the play between the pump body and the outer rotor; outer rotor and inner rotor. The distance should be 0.005—0.008 inch (0.12-0.20mm). 3. The marks on the rotors face up and the rotors should be placed in the original orientation as removed. Replace the cover assembly and tighten to 71—-88.5 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). 4. Depress the oil pressure relief valve washer and remove the snapring. Measure the free length of the spring and check that the piston can move freely.

ence-type, non-free-wheeling engine. If the timing belt breaks, the valves in the cylinder head may strike the pistons, causing potentially serious (also time-consuming and expensive) engine damage. The normal recommended replacement interval for the timing belt is 50,00 miles (80,000 km), every 4 years.

Crankshaft Damper 90963G07

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION $14 Engine 1. Remove the fan and radiator. Remove the belts. 2. Hold the hub by locking the flywheel. Remove the center bolt. 3. Gently tap the pulley from the crankshaft. Do not use a gear puller or hit it with a hammer, otherwise the pulley can be distorted. To install: 4. Check the condition of the cover seal. Replace if necessary. Install the pulley and check the crankshaft key is in place. 5. Hold the hub by locking the flywheel. Torque the center bolt to 317-332 ft. Ibs. (430-450 Nm). 6. Install the belts and tighten. Install the fan and radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant mixture. M20 Engine

1. Remove the fan and radiator. Remove the belts and water pump pulley. Remove the vibration damper bolts and remove the damper and pulley. 2. Remove the timing belt covers and belt. 3. Hold the hub with Too! No. 11 2 150 or equivalent. Remove the center bolt and the collar. 4. Replace the bolt in the threaded hole about 3 turns. Use a gear puller that has arms that will thread into the holes to remove the hub. 5. If the engine has a 2 piece hub, place the bolt back into the center hole about 3 turns and remove the sprocket using a similar puller as used to remove the first piece. To install: 6. Install the hub and sprocket with a the lettering facing outwards. Check the crankshaft key is in place. 7. Hold the hub with Tool No. 11 2 150 or equivalent. Torque the center bolt to 287-317 ft. Ibs. (390-430 Nm). 8. Install the timing belt. Use a new timing belt. Install the belt covers. 9. Install the vibration damper and pulley, matching the alignment pin. Torque the bolts to 16-17,7 ft. Ibs. (22-24 Nm). 10. Install the water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to 71-88.5 inch Ibs. (8-10 Nm). Install the belts and tighten. Install the fan and radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant mixture.

M42 and M44 Engines

_ & See Figure 135

1. Remove thefan and radiator. Remove the : vibration damper bolts and | id pulley.

3-37

Fig. 135 Holding Tool No. 11 2 150 and attachment spacer Tool No. 11 2 410 or their equivalents support the damper for removal and installation—M44 engine illustrated

2. Hold the hub or lock the flywheel. Remove the center bolt and the collar. 3. Replace the bolt in the threaded hole about 3 turns. Use a gear puller that has arms that will thread into the holes to remove the hub. To install: 4. Install the hub and check the crankshaft key is in place. The collar part of the washer faces the hub. 5. Hold the hub or lock the flywheel. Torque the center bolt to 224 ft. Ibs. (310 Nm). 6. Install the vibration damper and pulley, matching the alignment pin. Torque the bolts to 16-18 ft. Ibs. (22-24 Nm). 7. Install the belts and tighten. Install the fan and radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant mixture. M50, M52, $50 and $52 Engines

1. Remove the fan and radiator. Remove the belts. Remove the vibration damper bolts and remove the damper and pulley. 2. Hold the hub or lock the flywheel. Remove the center bolt and the collar. 3. Replace the bolt in the threaded hole about 3 turns. Use a gear puller that has arms that will thread into the holes to remove the hub. To install: 4. Check the condition of the cover seal. Replace if necessary. Install the hub and check the crankshaft key is in place. The collar part of the washer faces the hub. 5. Hold the hub or lock the flywheel. Torque the center bolt to 296 ft. Ibs. (410 Nm). 6. Install the vibration damper and pulley, matching the alignment pin. Torque the bolts to 5-5 ft. Ibs. (22-24 Nm). 7. Install the belts and tighten. Install the fan and radiator. Fill the radiator with coolant mixture.

Timing Belt Cover, Seal and Sprockets Unlike most BMW engines, the M20 engine uses a timing belt. The distributor guard plate is actually the upper timing belt cover.

2 WARNING Timing belt maintenance is extremely important! M20 engines utilize an interfer-

The timing belt should be replaced on the M20 engine should be replaced as follows: e Every 4 years e Every other Service II e The first service after 50,000 miles (80,000 km) e Anytime removal is necessary to complete a repair

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION M20 Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Remove the inner distributor cover and seal.

2. Remove the 2 distributor guard plate attaching bolts and one nut. Remove the rubber guard and take out the guard plate (upper timing belt cover). 3. Rotate the crankshaft to set No. 1 piston at TDC of its compression stroke. e>At TDC of No. 1 piston compression stroke, the camshaft sprocket arrow should align directly on the mark on the cylinder head.

4. Remove the radiator. 5. Remove the lower splash guard and take off the alternator, power steering and air conditioning belts. 6. Remove the crankshaft pulley and vibration . damper. 7. lf equipped on a 2 piece hub, hold the crankshaft hub from rotating and remove the crankshaft hub bolt. 8. Install the hub bolt into the crankshaft about 3 turns and using a gear puller, remove the crankshaft hub. 9. Remove the bolt from the engine side of the alternator bracket. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolt'and swing the bracket out of the way. 10. Lift out the TDC transmitter and set it aside. 11. Remove the remaining bolt and lift off the lower timing belt protective cover. 12. Loosen the timing belt tensioner roller bolts and push the roller in to remove the belt. Remove the intermediate shaft sprocket bolt and the sprocket. 13. Loosen the oil pan bolts and remove the 3 front pan bolts that go into the timing cover. Use a thin blade to loosen the oil pan gasket from the cover. Remove the 6 bolts holding the cover and remove from the engine. To install: 14. Remove the oil pan and replace the gasket using non-hardening sealant at the joints. Replace the seals in the cover if damaged, worn or brittle. Install the timing cover using new gaskets and tighten the M6 bolts to 71-88.5 inch Ibs. (8-10

Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). Tighten the oil pan M6 bolts to 80-97 inch Ibs. (9-11 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 13-15 ft. Ibs.

(18-22 Nm).

.

3-38

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

15. Install the intermediate shaft sprocket and timing belt. Tension the belt. 16. Install the lower timing protective cover and tighten the bolt. Install the TDC sender. 17. Replace the alternator bracket. Install the crankshaft hub and torque the nut to 287.6-317 ft. lbs. (390-430 Nm). 18. Install the vibration damper and pulley. Torque the bolts to 17 ft. Ibs. (23 Nm). 19. Install the upper cover and nut. Install the rubber guard. Check the condition of the O-ring and install the upper cover, then install the rotor and distributor cap. 20. Install the accessories and belts. Install the splash shield and fill the cooling system with coolant mixture. Bleed the cooling system and connect the negative battery cable.

INSPECTION > See Figures 136 thru 145 Inspect both sides of the timing belt. Replace the belt with a new one if any of the following conditions exist: ¢ Hardening of the rubber—back side is glossy without resilience and leaves no indentation when pressed with a fingernail e Cracks on the rubber backing e Cracks or peeling of the canvas backing ¢ Cracks on rib root e Cracks on belt sides e Missing teeth or chunks of teeth ¢ Abnormal wear of belt sides—the sides are normal if they are sharp, as if cut by a knife.

93133P63

Fig. 137 The timing belt on the left hasn’t started to separate like the belt on the right which is beginning to separate and is ready for replacement

TeCs1242

Fig. 136 Never bend or twist a timing belt excessively, and do not allow solvents, antifreeze, gasoline, acid or oil to come into contact with the belt

TCCS1243 TCCS1244

Fig. 138 Check for premature parting of the belt

Fig. 139 Check if the teeth are cracked or damaged

TCCS1246 TCCS1247

TCCS1245

Fig. 140 Look for noticeable cracks or wear on the belt face

Fig. 141 You may only have damage on one side of the belt; if so, the guide could

be the culprit

Fig. 142 Foreign materials can get in between the teeth and cause damage

Fig.145 ALWAYSPe on

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL a

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If none of these conditions exist, the belt does not need replacement unless it is at the recommended interval. The belt MUST be replaced at the recommended interval.

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rotor and rotor adapter. Remove the distributor housing and the intake camshaft end cover. 13. Remove the socket head bolts holding the upper timing chain guide. Turn the engine in the

direction of rotation to TDC of cylinder number 1.

Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover and Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION $14 Engine 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the cooling system through the bottom of the radiator. Remove the radiator and fan. 2. Disconnect all electrical plugs, remove the attaching nuts, and remove the air cleaner and airflow sensor. 3. Note and, if necessary, mark the wiring connections. Then, disconnect all alternator wiring. Unbolt the alternator and remove it and the drive belt. 4. Unbolt the power steering pump. Remove the belt and then move the pump aside, supporting it out of the way but in a position where the hoses will not be stressed. 5. Remove the 3 bolts from the bottom of the bell housing and the 2 bolts below it which fasten the reinforcement plate in place. 6. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil from the lower oil pan. Then, remove the lower oil pan bolts and remove the lower pan. 7. Remove the 3 bolts fastening the bottom of the front cover to the front of the oil pan. Loosen all the remaining oil pan bolts so the pan may be shifted downward just slightly to separate the gasket surfaces. 8. Remove the water pump. Remove the center bolt and use a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley. 9. Remove the piston for the timing chain tensioner. 10. Remove the bolts attaching the top of the front cover to the cylinder head. Then, remove all the bolts fastening the cover to the block. 11. Runa sharp bladed tool carefully between the upper surface of the oil pan gasket and the lower surface of the front cover to separate them without tearing the gasket. If the gasket is damaged, remove the oil pan and replace it. 12. If necessary, remove the distributor cap,

Do not move the position of the engine from this point on. 14. Remove the timing tensioner piston. There is strong spring pressure behind the plug. 15. Unfold the sprocket bolt lock plate and remove the sprocket bolts. Remove the sprockets. 16. Remove the 2 snaprings for the guide rail,

which is located on the left (driver's) side of the engine. 17. Pull the guide rail forward and then turn it up to free it from the chain. To install: 18. Install the timing chain and the guide rail. Install the guide rail snaprings. Place the chain around the lower sprocket 19. Engage the chain with the intake side (E) sprocket with the marks aligned. Turn the intake side (E) sprocket in the direction opposite to normal rotation to tension the timing chain on that side. Bolt this sprocket and the lock plates onto the front end of the intake camshaft. Prevent the camshaft from rotating and torque the bolts to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm). Fold the lock plates up. 20. Engage the timing marks with the mark on the exhaust side (A) sprocket and install the sprocket and lock plates onto the front end of the exhaust camshaft. Use the distributor rotor adapter to keep the sprocket from turning, and torque the bolts to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm). Fold the lock plates up. Make sure the timing chain has stayed in time. 21. Slide the chain tensioner piston into its cylinder. Install a new seal. Now install the spring with the conical end out. Install the cap which retains the spring. Add oil to the well where the piston contacts the tensioner rail. Loosen the nipple on the plug and keep adding oil until oil runs out of the nipple. Close the nipple and torque the cap to 29 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm). 22. Turn the engine 1 revolution in the normal direction of rotation. Recheck the timing. With the crankshaft at TDC, one groove on each camshaft faces inward and another on each faces the cast boss on the bearing cap. 23. Install the upper timing chain guide. Check and adjust the guide so the chain is centered in the guide. 24. Before reinstalling the cover, use a file to break or file off flashing at the top/rear of the cast-

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3-39

SURG KE PEO UE

ing on either side so the corner is smooth. Replace all gaskets, coating them with silicone sealer. Where gasket ends extend too far, trim them off. Apply sealer to the area where the oil pan gasket passes the front of the block. 25. Slide the cover straight on to avoid damaging the seal. Install all bolts in their proper positions. Coat the 3 bolts fastening the front cover to the upper oil pan with the proper sealant. 26. Tighten the bolts at the top, fastening the lower cover to the upper cover first. Then, tighten the remaining front cover bolts and, finally, the oil pan bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (9 Nm). Torque the M6 bolts

to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). Inspect the sealing Orings and replace, as necessary. If it uses the DME distributor with the screw-off type rotor, make sure the bolt at the center of the rotor has its seal in place and that it is installed with a sealer designed to prevent the bolt from backing out. 27. Torque the oil drain plug to 24 ft. Ibs. (32 Nm) and both upper and lower oil pan bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm). 28. Reverse the remaining portions of the removal procedures, making sure to fill and bleed the cooling system and to refill the oil pan with the correct oil. M42 Engine

» See Figures 146, 147, 148, 149 and 150 1. Remove the ignition leads and valve cover. Remove the cam position sender on the upper cover. Drain the coolant and remove the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat. 2. Remove the 11 bolts holding the upper timing cover. Remove the cover carefully to avoid damaging the head gasket. 3, Remove the radiator, fan, belts and water pump pulley. The water pump does not need to be removed to remove the lower cover. 4, Remove the damper and the crankshaft hub. 5. Remove the 21 bolts and remove the cover. 6. Rotate the engine in the direction of the rotation until the camshaft peaks of the intake and exhaust camshafts for cylinder No. 1 face each other. The arrows on the sprocket face up. 7. Remove the chain tensioner. Remove the upper chain guide, chain guide bolt on the right _ Side and the sprockets. 8. Remove the lower timing chain guide from under the crankshaft sprocket and lift out the timing chain.

Fig. 148 Compress the tensioner in a vice to reset it—Ma2 engine

3-40

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

84273072

84273073

Fig. 149 View of the mounting bolts for the upper chain guide—M42 engine

Fig. 150 Once the tensioner is installed, it must be released by pressing back on the tensioner rail—M42 engine

To install: 9. Install Too! No. 11 2 300 or equivalent, to hold the crank at TDC. Install Tool No. 11 3 240 or equivalent, to hold the camshafts in proper alignment. If the camshafts have to be turned so much that the valves in cylinders 1 or 4 start to open, turn the crank 90 degrees in the direction of engine rotation. Turn the camshafts and install the tool, then rotate the crankshaft back to TDC. This will prevent the valves from striking the pistons. 10. Install the camshaft sprockets with the arrows pointing up. Torque to 10-12 ft. Ibs. (13-17 Nm). Install the timing chain, timing guide bolt on the right side and the upper and lower chain guides. 11. If not installing a new tensioner piston, knock the outer sleeve of the tensioner piston so the piston is released from the sleeve. Assemble the tensioner with the spring, the piston and the snaprings in position. Place in a vice and press together until both snaprings engage. If the piston starts to extend, the procedure must be done again. The compressed tensioner will be 2.697 inch (68.5mm). 12. Install the tensioner into its bore and tighten the plug to 17-19 ft. Ibs. (23-27 Nm). Push the tensioner rail against the tensioner to release the tensioner piston. 13. Check the engine block dowel sleeves. Install new gaskets on the cover. Check the condition of the radial seals and replace if necessary.

14. Install the cover and torque the M6 bolts to 6-7 ft. Ibs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). 15. Install the crankshaft hub and damper. Install the water pump pulley and belts. Install the fan and radiator. 16. Place sealer at the head gasket to cover joints, Place the upper cover with new gaskets. Install 2 bolts and press the upper cover into place by wedging down against the camshaft sprocket. Torque the M6 bolts to 6-7 ft. lbs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm). 17. Install the valve cover and ignition leads. Install the thermostat and cover. Install the cam position sender. Fill the cooling system with coolant mixture and bleed.

_ M50 and $50 Engines » See Figures 151, 152, 153 = 1, Remove the ignition coils and valve cover. ~ Drain the coolant and remove the thermostat hous-

- ing. Remove the thermostat. cng Lan

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84273074

Fig. 151 Inserting the clip to hold the ten-

sioner in the released position—M50, $50, M52, AND $52 engine

84273075

Fig. 152 Removing the camshaft sprockets—M50, $50, M52, AND S52 engine

Fig. 153 Removing the upper chain tensioner—M50, S50, M52, AND $52 engine

2. Remove the 8 bolts holding the upper timing cover. Remove the cover carefully to avoid damaging the head gasket. 3. Remove the radiator, fan, belts and water pump pulley. The water pump does not need to be removed to remove the lower cover. 4. Remove the damper and the crankshaft hub. 5. Remove the 13 bolts and remove the cover. 6. Remove the upper timing case cover and the camshaft cover. Crank the engine in the direction of rotation so that the intake and exhaust camshaft peaks for cylinder No.1 face each other. Hold the camshafts in place with Tool No. 11 3 240 or equivalent. With the camshafts in this alignment the arrows on the sprockets will be facing up. Remove the valve cover mounting studs. Lock the flywheel in place to prevent movement of the crankshaft. 7. Unscrew the chain tensioner and carefully remove. There is a spring contained within the tensioner and may eject out if care is not taken. 8. Press down on the upper chain tensioner and lock it into place using Tool No. 11 3 290 or equivalent. Unscrew the transfer timing chain sprockets and pull the 2 off together with the chain. Remove the upper chain tensioner and the lower chain guide. Pull off the main timing chain sprocket along with the chain. Use a bent piece of wire to hold the chain from falling down into the engine. Do not rotate the engine after this point or the valve timing will be disturbed when the engine is

reassembled. 9. Remove the lower timing chain cover and fold the tensioner rails down. Remove the timing

chain.

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The timing case cover can be removed with-

out removing the water pump. 6. Remove the upper chain guide and top bolt on the right chain guide. 7. Remove the timing chain sprockets and the lift out the chain. Remove the timing chain guide. 8. Remove the tensioning rail, if necessary. Remove the crankshaft sprocket with a suitable tool and lift out the Woodruff key. 9. Remove the reversing roller, if needed. >The reversing roller can only be replaced

complete with bearings.

To install: 10. Install the Woodruff key into the channel in the crankshaft. Slide the crankshaft sprocket over the end of the crankshaft with the Woodruff key aligning with the channel in the crankshaft. Use the central mounting bolt to draw the sprocket entirely into position. 11. Apply sealant at the intersections of the timing cover and the oil pan. 12. The remaining components are installed in the reverse order from which they were removed. 13. Tighten the remaining fasteners as follows: ¢ Camshaft sprocket bolts: 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) ¢ Timing cover M6 bolts: 78-96 inch Ibs. (9-11 Nm) _ Timing cover M8 bolts: 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) ¢ Vibration damper central bolt: M44 engines: 243.4 ft. Ibs. (330 Nm) ¢ Vibration damper central bolt: M52 and $52 engines: 302.4 ft. Ibs. (410 Nm) e Vibration damper pulley bolts: 17 ft. Ibs. (23 Nm) 14. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

i Cams shaft and Valve Lifters fl rs$ can be removed and f eenmshafts ae

are removed on anf v:

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all models EXCEPT the M44 and M20 engines. The M44 lifters can be removed by removing the rockers. For specific details refer to the rocker removal procedures in this section. The M20 engine does not utilize a lifter.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION $14 Engine >To perform this operation it is necessary to have Tool No. 11 3 010 or equivalent. This is necessary to permit safe removal of the camshaft bearing caps and then safe release of the tension the valve springs put on the camshafts. The job also requires an adapter to keep the camshaft sprockets from turning while loosening and tightening their mounting bolts.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the cylinder head cover. Remove the fan cowl and the fan. 2. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the distributor cap. Remove the mounting screws and remove the rotor. Unscrew the distributor adapter and the protective cover underneath. Inspect the Oring that runs around the protective cover and replace it, if necessary. 3. Remove the 2 bolts and remove the protective cover from in front of the right side (intake) camshaft. Remove the bolts and remove the distributor housing from in front of the left (exhaust) side cam. Inspect the O-rings, and replace them, if necessary. 4. Remove the 6 mounting bolts from the cover at the rear end of the cylinder head and remove it. Replace the gasket. Note that on the S14 engine, 2 of these bolts are longer. These fit into the 2 holes that are sleeved. 5, Remove the 2 socket head bolts, located at the front of the head, which mount the upper timing chain guide rail. Then, remove the upper guide rail. 6. Turn the crankshaft to set the engine at No. 1 cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC). On the $14 engine, valves for No. 4 will be at overlap position—both valves just slightly open with timing marks at TDC. >The next item to be removed is a plug which keeps the tensioner piston inside its hydraulic cylinder against considerable spring pressure. Use a socket wrench and keep pressure against the outer end of the plug, pushing inward, so spring pressure can be released very gradually once the plug’s threads are free

of the block. 7. Remove the plug from the tensioner piston, and then release spring tension. Remove the spring and then the piston. Check the length of the spring. It must be 6.240-6.280 inches (158.5-159.5mm) in length; otherwise, replace it to maintain stable timing chain tension. >The timing chain should remain engaged on the crankshaft sprocket while removing the camshafts. Otherwise, it will be necessary to

do additional work to restore proper timing. Keep the timing chain under slight tension by ‘supporting it atthe top while removing the

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3-41 re

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8. Pry open the lock plates for the camshaft sprocket mounting bolts. Install an adapter to hold the sprockets still and remove the mounting bolts. 9. Using an adapter to keep the sprockets from

turning and putting tension on the timing chain, loosen and remove the sprocket mounting bolts, keeping the chain supported. 10. Mount the special tool on the timing case, which mounts to the top of the head. Then, tighten the tool’s shaft to the stop. This will hold both camshafts down against their lower bearings. Also, mark the camshafts as to exhaust and intake. 11. Remove the mounting bolts. Mark the camshaft bearing caps. It is possible to save time by keeping the caps in order, although they are marked for installation in the same positions. 12. Once all bolts are removed, slowly crank backwards on the tool’s shaft to gradually release the tension on the camshaft bearing caps. Once all tension is released, remove the tool. 13. Carefully, remove the camshafts in such a way as to avoid nicking any bearing surfaces or cams. To install: 14. Oil all bearing and camshaft surfaces with clean engine oil. Carefully, install the camshafts, marked E for intake and A for exhaust, to avoid nicking any wear surfaces. The camshafts should be turned so the groove between the front camshaft and sprocket mounting flange faces straight up. Install the special tool and tighten down onthe shaft to seat the camshaft bearings. 15. Install all bearing caps in order or as marked. Torque the attaching bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-23 Nm). Then, release the tension provided by the tool by turning the bolt and remove the tool. 16. Install the intake sprocket (marked E), install the lock plate, and install the mounting bolts. Use the adapter to keep the sprocket from turning, and torque the bolts to 80 inch Ibs. (9 Nm). Do the same for the exhaust side sprocket. Make sure the

timing chain stays in time.

17. Slide the timing chain tensioner piston into the opening in the cylinder in the block. Install the spring with the conically wound end facing the ' plug. Install the plug into the end of the sprocket { ~ and then install it over the spring. Use the socket wrench to depress the spring until the plug’s : threads engage with those in the block. Start the 5 threads in carefully and then torque the plug to zm 27-31 ft. Ibs. (37-42 Nm). 18. Crank the engine forward just 1 turn in normal direction of rotation. Now, 1 camshaft groove r on each side should face toward the center of the head and 1 on each side should face the case boss on the front bearing cap. Lock the sprocket mounting bolts with the tabs on the lockplates. 19. Reverse the remaining removal procedures to complete the installation. Before final tightening of the mounting nuts for the guide rail for the top of the timing chain, go back and forth, measuring the clearance Ms between the sprockets and the center of the guide rail to center it. Then, tighten the mounting nuts.

M20 Engine » See Figures 154 and 155

on

1. Remove the cylinder head.

‘62

2. Remove the rocker shaft and rocker arms. 3. Remove the bolts holding the camshaft

i),

‘retainer and slide out the camshaft. Be carefulnot to

cauragethe bearing surfaces while. ees Mii r j

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3-42

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

84273077

84273078

Fig. 154 Removing the camshaft retainer—M20 engine

Fig. 155 Removing the camshaft—M20 engine

To install:

4. Slide the camshaft carefully into to the cylinder head.

5. Check the seals and replace if necessary. 6. Install the camshaft retainer, rocker arms and rocker shafts. M42 Engines

» See Figures 156 thru 172 1. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the coolant from the radiator and the engine block. 4. Remove the valve cover as outlined in this section.

5. Remove the spark plugs as outlined in Section 1 and cover the unused exposed holes. 6. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation to Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder number one.

Cylinder number one will be at TDC when the intake and exhaust camshaft peaks for cylinder number one face each other 7. Remove the front, upper timing chain cover. 8. Loosen but do not remove the camshaft sprocket bolts. 9. Remove the timing chain hydraulic tensioner, then remove the camshaft sprocket bolts and sprockets 10. Remove the upper camshaft chain guide. 11. Make note of the camshaft bearing cap locations, label if necessary and remove. The intake cam bearing caps should be stamped from the fac-

90963PF1

Fig. 157 The camshaft bearing caps are stamped to designate their locations. From front to rear the intake caps are marked E1—-E5 and the exhaust A1-A5

Fig. 158 Position the camshafts at TDC, compression for cylinder No. 1, then install the camshaft sprockets with the timing marks facing up

Fig. 156 The camshaft sprocket timing marks are stamped into the sprockets

tory from the front to the rear starting with E1 through E5, and the exhaust cam bearing caps from the front to the rear starting with A1 through A5. 12. Install the camshaft journal holding device, tool No. 11 3 260/270/250 or equivalent. Tighten the hold-down bolts in the spark plug bores to 17 ft. Ibs. (23 Nm). 13. Apply a load to the bearing caps by rotating the eccentric shaft. This relieves the tension on the bearing cap bolts. Loosen and remove the bearing cap bolts. 14. Slowly and carefully rotate the eccentric of the cam cap holding fixture to release the camshaft. 15. Remove and rotate the camshaft fixture too! 180° and repeat the above procedures to remove the other camshaft. 16. Remove the camshafts and the bearing

90963PD0

Fig. 159 The camshafts are at TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder no. 1 when the dimples are facing up and the machined surface parallel with the cylinder head

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Fig. 160 The oil jet feed fitting seal should be replaced during reassembly

90963PE2

Fig. 161 A view of an installed camshaft lifter

Fig. 162 The camshafts are held at TDC by installing Tool No. 11 3 240 or its equivalent onto the rearof the cylinder head

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL

la! Aidiaines ; TDC.alignment hole plug Fig. 163 The crankshaft Top Dead Center (TDC) alignment hole is on the lower left side of the engine block just below the starter motor

Fig. 164 The crankshaft is held at TDC by inserting Tool No. 11 2 300 or its equivalent through the engine block and into the flywheel

3-43

Fig. 165 If the flywheel has been replaced with a competition component, the alignment hole may be absent. Use a suitable dial indicator and a long extension through the No. 1 spark plug hole to locate

Top Dead Center (TDC)

i Baum Tools Unlimited Inc. d PO Box 5867 Sarasota FL USA 34277-5867 1-800-848-6657 www.baumtools.com

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90963PF9

Fig. 166 The camshafts can be held and rotated using an open end wrench installed on the hex cast into the camshaft

Fig. 167 When the camshafts are positioned at Top Dead Center (TDC) for cylinder No. 1 the camshaft alignment tool is installed—all E36 engines

79230629

7923DG27

Fig. 169 Camshaft removal Tool Nos. 11 3 260 and 11 3 270 or equivalents, used to support the camshaft journals during camshaft removal—M42 and E36 6-cylinder engines

Fig. 170 Bearing cap ID markings. The intake camshaft journals are indicated by the letter E, the exhaust journals are indi-

Fig. 171 Check the bore surfaces of the

cated by the letter A—M42 and E36 6cylinder engines

valve clearance compensators for scoring—M42 and E36 6-cylinder engines

caps. Note that the intake camshaft is marked “E” and the exhaust camshaft is marked “A”. The camshaft bearing are consecutively numbered and lettered with “A” or “E” to designate intake or exhaust side. 17. Once the cam journals are removed, the camshafts can be lifted away from the cylinder head. >The intake camshaft is labeled with the letter E, the exhaust camshaft is labeled with the

letter A.

| Fig. 172 The lower camshaft journal and | tappet bore housings are marked A for | e and E forintake—M42 and E36 6-

90963PJ9

Fig. 168 The necessary camshaft and engine TDC positioning tools are readily available from companies such as Baum Tools in Sarasota, FL

To install: } 18. Apply fresh engine oil to the camshaft journals and lobes. 19. Place the camshaft in the cam journals of the cylinder head with the lobes for cylinder no. 1

facing one another.

20. Place the upper camshaft journal bearing caps on the camshaft in the correct order. Note that the intake camshaft is marked “E” and the exhaust camshaft is marked “A”. The camshaft bearing are consecutively numbered and lettered with “A” or “E” to designate intake or exhaust side. 21. With the spark plugs removed install the upper camshaft journal holding device, tool No. 113 260/270/250 or equivalent. Tighten the hold-down bolts in the spark plug bores to 17 ft. bs. (23 Nm). 22. Rotate the eccentric shaft of the camshaft journal holding fixture to seat the camshaft and journals into the cylinder head. 23. Use the holding fixture to secure the camshaft journals and camshaft into the cylinder head Install the camshaft journal bolts and torque as follows: — .

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3-44 ARE

ENGINE AND ENGINE OVERHAUL EN a

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Se

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¢ M6 fasteners: 88 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) e M7 fasteners: 10 ft. Ibs. (14 Nm)

¢ M8 fasteners: 14 ft. Ibs. (19 Nm) 24. Repeat the above procedures to install the second camshaft. 25. Remove the camshaft journal fixture tool. 26. Align the camshafts so that lobes of the intake and exhaust cams face each other for the No. 1 cylinder. The camshafts can be turned on the hexagon casting using a 1 “%e inch or 27mm open end wrench.

Once the camshafts have been removed and reinstalled a waiting period dependent on the ambient temperature is necessary before rotating the engine. Observe the following waiting period to allow the lifters to compress fully as follows: e Room temperature: 10 minutes e Temperatures down to 50° F (10° C): 30 minutes e Temperatures below 50° F (10° C): 75 minutes 27. Install the upper camshaft chain guide. 28. Secure the crankshaft at TDC by inserting Too! No. 11 2 300 or its equivalent through the engine block and into the flywheel.

Do not forget to remove the tool before Starting the engine. 29. Install Too! No. 11 3 240 or its equivalent to secure the camshafts at TDC on the compression stroke for cylinder number 1. Make sure the dimples on the machined surface at the rear of the camshafts are facing up. 30. Install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts with the timing chain attached making sure the sprocket and sensor plate timing marks are facing up. Install the camshaft sprocket bolts until they lightly bottom, then back off enough such that there is no free play, but the sprockets can rotate when the cam chain is tensioned. 31. Collapse the hydraulic chain tensioner before installing as follows: a. Drain the oil chamber of the tensioner. b. Place the tensioner in a vice using soft protective jaws or wooden paint stirrers to avoid damaging the machined surface. c. Compress the tensioner slowly, and carefully compress it until the snapring is almost even with the outer housing. Repeat this compression procedure a second time. 32. Install the tensioner and using a new sealing washer, install and tighten the access plug to

29.5 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm). 33. Tighten down the camshaft sprocket bolts to 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm). _ 34. Remove Tool Nos. 11 2 300 and 11 3 240 or their equivalents. 35. Install and reseal the front cover as follows: a. Obtain the upper front cover-to-timing chain cover rubber replacement seal. b. Cut the rubber seal in the timing chain Cover where it meets the cylinder head. --__¢, Thoroughly clean the groove in the timing chain cover with a brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol.

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d. Apply a gasket sealant such as Drei Bond® 1209 to the lower corners of the cylinder headto-timing cover and the upper corner of the cylinder head-to-upper timing cover-to-valve cover area. é. Install four long guide studs, Tool No. 11 4 110 or their equivalent into the cylinder head in place of the four upper timing cover through bolts. f. Coat the new timing cover seals and the groove end pockets in the timing chain cover with a gasket sealant such as Drei Bond® 1209. g. Apply a light, thin coat of grease to the upper portion of the seal. h. Use tool No. 11 2 330 or a thin rectangular section of sheet metal larger than the size of the timing cover, seal and guide studs, and apply a light coating of grease to both flat surfaces. i. Place the too! onto the seal on top of the timing chain cover. j. Install the upper timing chain cover onto the guide studs and carefully press the cover into place. k. Install the upper timing chain cover mounting fasteners in the unoccupied bolt holes, but only tighten until resistance is felt, making sure the cover is fully seated. |. Carefully slide the tool away from between the timing covers. m. Temporarily remove the oil jet feed seal at the front of the cylinder head. n. Install the valve cover without the gasket using two M6 x 1.0mm bolts and fender washers

threaded into the first two threaded holes for the valve cover in the cylinder head. Tighten the bolts evenly until the valve cover presses down the upper timing chain cover such that the upper edge of the timing cover is level with the valve cover gasket surface of the cylinder head. 0. Tighten the installed upper timing cover fasteners, then remove the guide tool and install and tighten the remaining cover fasteners. Recheck the tightness of all the upper timing cover fasteners. Timing cover tightening specifications: e M6: 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm) e M7 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm) ¢ M8 16.2 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) e M10 34.6 ft. Ibs. (47 Nm) a. Remove the valve cover and install the oil jet feed seal.

Failure to install the oil jet feed seal will result in engine damage. 36. The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure noting the following.

See Figures 54, 55 and 56 1. Unplug the switch connector and use a continuity tester or ohmmeter for this test. 2. There should be continuity between terminals 4 and 6 (automatic transmission) or 2 and 18 (manual transmission) when the throttle is closed

(idle). 3. There should be continuity between terminals 4 and 5 (automatic transmission) or 3 and 18 (manual transmission) when the throttle is fully open. 4. Loosen the screws on the side of the housing to adjust the switch. If the switch cannot be correctly adjusted for both test results, replace the

switch.

>The TP sensor cannot be adjusted. If the sensor has failed, it must be replaced.

> See Figure 57 1. With the ignition switch ON the potentiometer should receive 5 volts at connector terminal 1. 2. With the ignition switch OFF, detach the potentiometer connection. There should be 4.6 kiloohms between terminals 1 and 3 of potentiometer. 3. Connect the ohmmeter to terminals 1 and 2 of the potentiometer. Move the throttle throughout the range of movement. The resistance must change smoothly without any jumps, skips or breaks. The resistance should range from 0.8—1.2 ohms to 3.2-4.8 ohms. 1996-98 Models

e>On vehicles equipped with (ASC+T) traction control, do not confuse the TPS on the main throttle body with the throttle position switch on the secondary throttle body if installed.

The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is mounted on the side of the throttle housing and is directly connected to the throttle shaft. The Engine Control Module (ECM) sends a voltage signal to the sensor and monitors the voltage that is returned.

1. Detach the TPS electrical connector and turn the ignition key to the ON position. 2. Using a digital voltmeter, check for a 5 volt reference signal from the topmost terminal of the electrical connector and chassis ground. 3. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 4, Using a digital ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the top most and bottom most terminals on the TPS. The resistance should be approximately 4 kilo ohms (4,000 ohms). 5. Connect the digital ohmmeter to the bottom most and middle terminals of the TPS. 6. Open and close the throttle. The resistance should change steadily between 1—4 kilo ohms (1,000—4,000 ohms). 7. If voltage is not present and/or not within specification, check the wiring and electrical connectors and replace the sensor as necessary. 8. If the sensor resistance is not within specification, replace the TPS.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 58 and 59 The throttle position switch provides the DME unit information regarding when the throttle is wide open and when it is at idle position. On M20 and $14 engines, the switch must be adjusted when replaced. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Unplug the connector from the switch body.

84274029

84274028

Fig. 54 Throttle position switch pinout. LL

is the idle position and VL is the full load position—M20, and $14 engines with manual transmissions

Fig. 55 Throttle position switch pinout. LL is the idle position and VL is the full load position—M20 engines with automatic transmissions

84274031

|

Fig. 57 Throttle position potentiometer pinout shown from the wiring

harness side of the connector—M42 and M50 engines

84274030

Fig. 56 Throttle position switch mounted on the end of the throttle shaft é

DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS =4-17

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Faashan POStion

84275025

Fig. 59 Location of the Throttle Position (TP) switch—S38 engine, $14 is similar

A

90964PA2

Fig. 60 The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located on the front housing of the cylinder head on M42 and M44 engines

Fig. 61 The reference marker mounted on the camshaft creates an electrical pulse

when it passes by the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor. Note the camshaft timing marks, cylinder No. 1 is at TDC

TESTING Use a BMW service tester, the OBD | blink code or on OBD II vehicles, use a suitable Data Scan Tool (DST) to check for faults and/or if capable, to read the values of the components. If this diagnostic equipment is not available, proceed as follows.

84274034

84274033

Fig. 62 Cylinder identifying and engine speed sensor pinouts

3. Remove the 2 screws from the switch body and pull the switch off the throttle body. If necessary, for additional room, remove the throttle body assembly. To install: 4. Replace the switch and tighten the 2 screws. Attach the electrical connector. 5. On M20 and S14 engines adjust the switch as follows: a. Unplug the switch connector. b. Using a digital ohmmeter or continuity tester check for continuity between terminals 4 and 6 (automatic transmission) or 2 and 18 (manual transmission) when the throttle is closed (idle). c. Check for continuity between terminals 4 and 5 (automatic transmission) or 3 and 18 (manual transmission) when the throttle is fully open. d. Loosen the screws on the side of the housing and adjust the switch as necessary.

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor/Cylinder Identifying Sensor OPERATION Except |gd and $14 Engines

Fig. 63 The upper connector is for the cylinder identifying sender and the lower is for the speed sensor—M42 engine shown, M50 has similar arrangement

of the sequential fuel injection, ignition timing and ~ knock (detonation) control. The sensor mounts on the front or side of the cylinder head and uses a reference marker on the camshaft to collapse the field windings in the sensor to create an electrical pulse. The ECM

uses this electrical pulse to identify when cylinder No. 1 is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of it’s firing stroke. This signal is used by the engine to determine when to create an ignition spark as well as actuate the fuel injector for each cylinder. The engine's firing order is programmed into the ECM, therefore

the ECM only needs to recognize the position of cylinder No. 1. If the CMP fails, no ignition spark will occur and the fuel injectors will not be actuated.

When checking component values (volts or ohms) a suitable digital volt/ohmmeter must be used otherwise the circuit and/or component may be damaged. Except M20 and $14 Engines > See Figures 62 and 63 The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located on the cylinder head. On models without VANOS, it is located on the front timing cover above the water pump. On models with VANOS, the sensor is on the front left side of the cylinder head. The connector is located below the intake manifold, towards the front of the engine.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Trace the sensor lead back to the connector and disconnect.

3. Using a digital ohmmeter, check the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. The resistance should be 1.15-1.41 kilo ohms. M20 and $14 Engines

M20 and $14 Engines

> See Figure 62

The cylinder identifying sender, also referred to as a reference sensor, provides the Engine Control

The cylinder identifying sender is mounted on the ignition lead for cylinder No. 6 on the M20 engine. The sender on the S14 engine is mounted in the bellhousing flange and connects to a gray colored plug mounted in the center of a group of 3 plugs on the engine compartment rear wall, next to the engine harness connector and diagnosis socket. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Trace the sensor lead back to the connector and disconnect. 3. Using a digital ohmmeter, check the resis-

Module (ECM) with information on the relative engine position for a particular cylinder. A signal is produced that the ECM uses to begin the ignition and fuel injection cycles. The M20 engines’ sensor mounts on ignition lead for cylinder No. 6. . The $14 engines’ sensor mounts on the transmission bell housing. The sensor on the S14 engine connects to a gray colored plug mounted in the center of a group of 3 plugs on the engine compartment rear wall, next to the engine harness connector and diagnosis

socket.

_tance between terminal Nos. 1 and 2. The resistance should be 0.2—-1.0 ohms.

4-18

DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS Sy

Rs

SR

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION $14 Engine

1. The ignition switch must be in the OFF position. 2. The cylinder identifying connector is mounted on the left side of the bell housing. There is a shield mounted over the sensor with 2 bolts. 3. Remove the bolts and pull the sensor out of the bell housing. 4. Unplug the connector at the mounting bracket. To install: 5. Install in the bell housing with the shield. 6. Tighten the mounting bolts to 4.5-5.5 ft. Ibs. (6-8 Nm). 7. Plug in the connector and route the wire. M20 Engine 1. The ignition switch must be in the OFF position. 2. Remove the distributor cap cover to expose the ignition leads. The sensor will be mounted on the ignition lead for cylinder 6. Disconnect cylinder 6 ignition lead from the distributor cap. 3. Trace the sensor lead back to the connector and disconnect. The S38 engine might require the fan and shroud be removed and the water pipe be moved out of the way to access the plug. 4. Cut the distributor connector off the lead and slide the sensor off. Alternately, the entire ignition lead may be replaced if the entire assembly is available as a single unit. To install: 5. Slide the new sensor onto the ignition lead. 6. Strip off % in. (5mm) of insulation from the ignition lead end. Place a new coupling on the lead. Crimp the new coupling on the wire end first, then crimp the insulation end. 7. Remove the cut off wire from the distributor connector. Use tool 12 1 096 or equivalent to install the lead into the distributor connector. 8. Install the ignition lead and the distributor cover. Install the fan, shroud and water pipe on the $38 engine, if removed.

TT

ES

ES

SEE LI

M42, M44 and M50 Engines

1. The ignition switch must be in the OFF position. 2. The cylinder identifying connector is mounted on the timing cover with a bolt. 3. Remove the bolt and pull the sensor out of the timing cover. 4. Unplug the connector at the mounting bracket. To install: 5.» Check the O-ring around the sensor and install in the timing cover. 6. Tighten the mounting bolt to 4.5-5.5 ft. Ibs. (6-8 Nm). 7. Plug in the connector and route the wire. $50, M52 and $52 Engines e>When installing a new sensor, make sure the wiring is properly routed. Secure the sensor wiring with new zip ties.

1. Remove the plastic trim cover from above fuel injectors. 2. Detach the electrical connector from the VANOS solenoid. 3. Unscrew the solenoid from VANOS

control unit by turning it counterclockwise. 4. Remove the banjo bolt from the oil supply line at the VANOS control unit. 5. Remove CMP sensor fastener and the sensor from the left front of cylinder head, near the top of the oil filter housing. 6. Detach the CMP sensor electrical connector under the intake manifold. 7. Installation is in reverse order of removal making sure to use new O-rings and seals from the removed components. 8. Torque all components as follows: e CMP sensor to cylinder head: 44 inch Ibs. (5 Nm) e VANOS oil supply banjo bolt: 23.6 ft. Ibs. (32 Nm) e VANOS solenoid: 22 ft. Ibs. (30 Nm)

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LEE

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LE

LL,

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor/Speed Sensor OPERATION » See Figure 64 The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor/engine speed sensor provides the Engine Control Module (ECM) unit with engine speed information. The sensor reads the information from a toothed wheel mounted on or integral with the crankshaft. The S14 engines’ speed sensor is mounted next to the cylinder identifying sensor on the bell housing and uses the teeth of the flywheel’s ring gear for calculating the engine speed. The M20, M42, M50 and S50 engines up to and

including 1995 vehicles (OBD |)have the CKP sensor/speed sensor mounted on the front engine cover and reads a toothed wheel mounted to the crankshaft pulley. On all 1996-98 models (OBD |! compliant), the CKP sensor is mounted into the lower left rear portion of the engine block and reads a toothed wheel mounted to the end of the crankshaft assembly. If the Engine Control Module (ECM) does not receive a signal from the Crankshaft Position (CKP) when the engine is cranked, the engine will not start.

TESTING > See Figure 65 Use a BMW service tester, the OBD | blink code or on OBD II vehicles, use a suitable Data Scan Tool (DST) to check for faults and/or if capable, to read the values of the components. If this diagnostic equipment is not available, proceed as follows.

When checking component values (volts or ohms) a suitable digital volt/ohmmeter must be used otherwise the circuit and/or component may be damaged.

Grankshatt,Position Pd

Sensor (CKP).3 aga

Fig. 65 Using a suitable scan tool really does help save time. To

Fig. 64 The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is located just below the starter motor and mounted into the engine block—M44 engine

access the crankshaft and camshaft sensors connectors on late M42 engines and all M44 engines, you must remove the upper intake

shown

manifold

DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS M20 and $14 Engines

> See Figures 62 and 63 The engine speed sensor provides the DME unit with engine speed information. The sensor reads the information from a tooth wheel mounted on the crankshaft hub except on the S14 engine. It can also be called the crankshaft sensor. The S14 engines speed sensor is mounted next to the cylinder identifying sensor and is removed in the same manner as the cylinder identifying sensor. The sensor on the S14 engine connects to a plug mounted in a group of 3 plugs on the engine compartment rear wall, next to the engine harness connector and diagnostic socket. It is the connector on

the right side. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Trace the sensor lead back to the connector and disconnect. 3. Check the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. The resistance should be 490-590 ohms.

5. Unclip the electrical leads as necessary from the lead guide and remove sender from the vehicle. To install: 6. On rear engine block mounted sensors, install a new O-ring when installing the sensor. 7. Install the sensor onto the engine making sure the sensor is properly seated. Tighten the

mounting bolts to 4.5-5.5 ft. Ibs. (6-8 Nm). 8. On front mounted sensors, check the air gap and adjust to 0.030—-0.050 inches (0.7-1.3mm) 9. Replace the lead in the lead guide as necessary and plug in the connector. Make sure that the lead will not rub on the drive belt. 10. If the upper intake manifold was removed, reinstall the manifold as outlined in Section 3.

OPERATION > See Figure 66

On engine block mounted Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensors, the sensor is located just below the starter motor. 1. On late model M42 engines and M44 engines, remove the upper intake manifold as outlined in Section 3 to access the sensor connector. 2. Detach the CKP sensor connector. 3. Use a digital ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the two outer terminals of the sensor. 4. The measured resistance should be 1,150-1,400 ohms

The Knock Sensor (KS) provides information to the Engine Control Module (ECM) to determine whether detonation is taking place. If knock is detected the ECM will retard the ignition timing until the knock is eliminated. This prevents the engine from doing internal mechanical damage that can occur when detonation is present. The KS sensor also allows the ECM to adapt and optimize the ignition timing based on engine load, throttle position and the quality of the fuel being used. If a low grade of fuel is selected, the ECM will allow for safe operation of the engine, however the engine's power output will be compromised to allow for safe operation on the low grade of fuel. To optimize the engine's performance, a quality grade of fuel should be used as outlined in the owner's manual and on labels installed in the fuel filler area. The Knock Sensors were first used on the M42 engines and are found on all 3 series and Z3 engines that are OBD I! compatible. The sensors are mounted to the engine block under the intake manifold.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

TESTING

On front mounted Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensors: 1. Detach the CKP sensor connector. 2. Use a digital ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the two outer terminals of the sensor. 3. The measured resistance should be 1,150-1,400 ohms

ENGINE BLOCK MOUNTED SENSORS

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. On late model M42 engines and M44 engines, remove the upper intake manifold to access the CKP sensor connector. 3. Detach the CKP sensor connector. 4. Unscrew the bolt holding the sender to the engine. Withdraw the sender from the engine.

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90964P98

Fig. 66 The Knock Sensor (KS) is located near the CKP sensor and the starter

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

M42, M44, M50, $50, M52, $52 Engines

FRONT MOUNTED SENSORS

4-19

lf a Knock Sensor (KS) malfunctions, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be stored in the Engine Control! Module (ECM) fault memory. Due to their physical location and the dynamic operation of the KS sensor, diagnosis should be performed using a BMW service tester, or suitable Data Scan Too! (DST) to check for stored faults.

> See Figure 66 >The Knock Sensor (KS) is extremely sensitive and must be torqued to specification when installed. Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads of the KS mounting fastener.

The KS sensors are located on the left side of the engine block near the center point of the cylinders. 1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Disconnect the injector plug plate from the injectors and place to the side. 3. Remove the upper intake manifold and disconnect the wire duct from the lower intake manifold. 4. The knock sensors are plugged into the holder with the upper plug for cylinder 1 and 2 knock sensor. The lower plug is for cylinder 3 and 4 knock sensor. Mark the locations of the plugs and disconnect. . 5. Note the routing of the leads and the angle the sensors are mounted. Disconnect the water pipe crossing past the knock sensors. Remove the sensors from the engine block. To install: 6. Install the cylinder 1 and 2 knock sensor with the lead pointing toward the back of the engine. The lead should make a 70 degree angle from vertical to avoid interference with other engine components. 7. Install the cylinder 3 and 4 knock sensor with the lead point to the front of the engine, parallel with the centerline of the crankshaft. 8. Tighten the Knock Sensor (KS) to 15 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm). 9. Install the water pipe and connect the knock sensor plugs. Install the wire duct and upper intake manifold. Install the injector plug plate.

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4-26

DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS

SE

P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve “A” Circuit Malfunction P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve “A” Circuit Open P0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve “A” Circuit Shorted P0415 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve “B” Circuit Malfunction P0416 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve “B” Circuit Open P0417 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve “B” Circuit Shorted P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay “A” Circuit Malfunction P0419 Secondary Air Injection System Relay “B” Circuit Malfunction P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 1 ) P0421 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 1 ) P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 1 ) P0423 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 1 ) P0424 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank no. 1) P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 2 ) P0431 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 2 ) P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 2) P0433 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank no. 2 ) P0434 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank no. 2 ) P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak) P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System

Vent Control Circuit Malfunction P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Range/Performance P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor Low Input P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System ___ Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor High Input

P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Gross Leak) P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0466 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0467 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input P0468 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Input P0469 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High P0474 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Intermittent P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance P0477 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High P0479 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Intermittent P0480 Cooling Fan no. 1 Control Circuit Malfunction P0481 Cooling Fan no. 2 Control Circuit Malfunction P0482 Cooling Fan no. 3 Control Circuit Malfunction P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction P0484 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Malfunction P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction P0506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected P0510 Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction

P0521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Range/Performance — P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Low Voltage P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch High Voltage P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0531 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input P0533 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit © High Input

P0534 A/C Refrigerant P0550 Power Steering Malfunction P0551 Power Steering Range/Performance P0552 Power Steering Low Input P0553 Power Steering

Charge Loss Pressure Sensor Circuit Pressure Sensor Circuit Pressure Sensor Circuit Pressure Sensor Circuit

High Input

P0554 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0560 System Voltage Malfunction P0561 System Voltage Unstable P0562 System Voltage Low P0563 System Voltage High P0565 Cruise Control On Signal Malfunction P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal Malfunction P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal Malfunction P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal Malfunction P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal Malfunction P0570 Cruise Control Accel Signal Malfunction

P0571 Cruise Control/Brake Switch “A” Circuit Malfunction P0572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch “A” Circuit Low P0573 Cruise Control/Brake Switch “A” Circuit

High P0574 Through P0580 Reserved for Cruise Codes P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error P0602 Control Module Programming Error P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error P0604 Internal Control Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error P0606 PCM Processor Fault P0608 Control Module VSS Output “A” Malfunction P0609 Control Module VSS Output “B” Malfunction P0620 Generator Control Circuit Malfunction P0621 Generator Lamp “L” Control Circuit Malfunction

P0622 Generator Field “F” Control Circuit Malfunction P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction : P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction P0655 Engine Hot Lamp Output Control Circuit Malfunction P0656 Fuel Level Output Circuit Malfunction P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch “B” Circuit Malfunction P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Mal-

function (PRNDL Input)

P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit

Range/Performance

oa

.

'

DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input

P0749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent P0750 Shift Solenoid “A” Malfunction P0751 Shift Solenoid “A” Performance or Stuck

P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input

Off

P0709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch “B” Circuit Low P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction P0721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch “B” Circuit High P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction P0726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal P0728 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio P0731 Gear no. 1 Incorrect Ratio P0732 Gear no. 2 Incorrect Ratio P0733 Gear no. 3 Incorrect Ratio P0734 Gear no. 4 Incorrect Ratio P0735 Gear no. 5 Incorrect Ratio P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electri-

P0752 Shift Solenoid “A” Stuck On P0753 Shift Solenoid “A” Electrical

P0754 Shift Solenoid “A” Intermittent P0755 Shift Solenoid “B” Malfunction P0756 Shift Solenoid “B” Performance or Stuck Oft P0757 P0758 P0759 P0760 P0761

Shift Shift Shift Shift Shift

Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid

“B" “B” “B” “C” “C”

Stuck On Electrical Intermittent Malfunction Performance Or Stuck

P0762 P0763 P0764 P0765 P0766

Shift Shift Shift Shift Shift

Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid

“C” “C” “C’” “D” “D”

Stuck On Electrical Intermittent Malfunction Performance Or Stuck

P0767 P0768 P0769 P0770 P0771

Shift Shift Shift Shift Shift

Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid Solenoid

“D” “D” “D” “E” “E”

Stuck On Electrical Intermittent Malfunction Performance Or Stuck

P0772 P0773 P0774 P0780 P0781 P0782 P0783 P0784

Shift Solenoid “E” Stuck On Shift Solenoid “E” Electrical Shift Solenoid “E” Intermittent Shift Malfunction 1-2 Shift Malfunction 2-3 Shift Malfunction 3—4 Shift Malfunction 4-5 Shift Malfunction

Oft

Oft

Oft ¢

P0785 P0786 P0787 P0788 P0789

Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance Shift/Timing Solenoid Low Shift/Timing Solenoid High Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent P0790 Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction P0801 Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction P0804 1—4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction

Clearing Codes

P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermit1989-95 Models

tent

P0745 Pressure P0746 Pressure or Stuck Off P0747 Pressure P0748 Pressure

Control Solenoid Malfunction Control Solenoid Performance

Control Solenoid Stuck On Control Solenoid Electrical

» See Figures 67 and 68 The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) can be cleared by:

4-27

e Using the BMW dealer's or by using suitable diagnostic equipment e Automatically after 60 starts if the cause of the fault is repaired e By disconnecting the battery e By disconnecting the ECM The codes can be cleared using the BMW Diagnostic Tester or equivalent. The fault codes will be cleared after 60 engine starts without an additional failures.

If the codes are cleared by the battery or Engine Control Module (ECM) being discon- | nected, make sure the ignition is in the OFF position. The codes will be cleared if the battery is discon-

nected. If this method is used, make sure the ignition is OFF. Alternately the DME unit can be unplugged to remove power from the memory circuits. If this method is used, make sure the ignition is OFF. elf the battery or DME are disconnected to clear the codes, the DME will need to re-adapt and relearn operating parameters. Run the engine for 5 minutes at idle and at 2000 rpm, then drive the car to allow adaptation and to check for proper running.

1996-98 Models » See Figures 67 and 68 On OBD II equipped vehicles, the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) can be cleared by: e Drive cycles e Disconnecting the battery e Using a suitable OBD II Data Scan Too! ST ) e Using the BMW dealer's Modic system >On vehicles equipped with OBD II diagnostic capabilities, the Check Engine (MIL) Light cannot be reset by disconnecting the battery.

Once the Check Engine light is illuminated it will remain illuminated until the recognized fault has not been detected through three complete consecutive drive cycles or if reset using a suitable OBD II Data Scan Too! (DST) or the BMW dealer's Modic system The DTC’s will remain in the ECM memory until 40 consecutive drive cycles (80 consecutive drive cycles for a potentially catalyst damaging fault) have occurred without the fault being detected, unless the fault is purged by using the DIS, MODIC or a suitable Data Scan (DST) Too! attached to the 16-pin Data Link Connector (DLC).

4-28

DRIVEABILITY AND EMISSIONS CONTROLS

VACUUM DIAGRAMS > See Figure 77 The vacuum diagram labels are available from a local BMW dealer. Because the vacuum circuits vary based on the vehicle model, year, the engine and installed accessories, it would be impossible to provide outlined charts to accurately cover all the various engine and vehicle options. Should the label be missing, or should vehicle be equipped with a different engine from the

vehicle's original equipment, replace the labels to reflect the diagrams for the same or similar configuration. If you wish to obtain a replacement emissions label, the manufacturers must make the labels available for purchase for at least 7 model years after the last production date. The labels can usually be ordered from a local BMW dealer.

“i EMISSION CONTROL INFORMATION GirenseneMOTOREN WERKE AG i.ii hw 18, 3109, Sitcom, BU, 23 5 FAMILY, VBM1.9V, Evrae EMISSION FAMILY:

ENGINE DISPLACEMENT 115.6 cu.in. (1895:cu.cm.) einen ayes CONTROL SYSTEM;

VACUUM HoSBRO4 Exhaust Manifold Fuel Prossure Reguiator

Thottle

pes?

_

Butterfly

NO ADJUSTMENT NEEDED

mine CATALYST NANA THIS VEHICLE CONFORMS 10 U.S, EPA AND CALIFORNIA ARB TIER 1 REGULATIONS APPLICABLE 10 1997 pune YEAR NEW PASSENGER CARS«

Air Mass

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tad Separator

Charcoal Canister

Purge Valve

—[rniicco_ 032

3

Fig. 77 The vacuum hose routing diagram label is located in the engine compartment. If the label has deteriorated or is missing it should be replaced

BASIC FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS 5-2 FUEL LINES AND FITTINGS 5-2 TYPE OF FUEL FITTING 5-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-2 ADAPTIVE MULTI-PORT ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 5-3 GENERAL INFORMATION 5-3 RELIEVING FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE 5-4 FUEL PUMP 5-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-4 TESTING 5-5 THROTTLE BODY 5-6 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-6 ADJUSTMENTS 5-7 CHECKING EXTERNAL SAFETY PATH 5-7 FUEL RAIL AND INJECTORS 5-8 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-8 TESTING 5-10 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR 5-11 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-11 TESTING 5-13 FUEL TANK 5-13 TANK ASSEMBLY 5-13 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-13

BASIC FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS 5-2 FUEL LINES AND FITTINGS 5-2 ADAPTIVE MULTI-PORT ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION 5-3 FUEL TANK 5-13

§-2

FUEL SYSTEM

BASIC FUEL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS When there is a problem starting or driving a vehicle, two of the most important checks involve the ignition and the fuel systems. The questions most mechanics attempt to answer first, “is there

spark?” and “is there fuel?” will often lead to solving most basic problems. For ignition system diagnosis and testing, please refer to the information on engine electrical components and ignition systems

found earlier in this manual. If the ignition system checks out (there is spark), then you must determine if the fuel system is operating properly (is there fuel?).

is held in place by a clamp which is loosened or tightened via a screw using a screwdriver or related tool. These clamps are also available as tamper-proof clamps. A tamper-proof clamp has a screw type fastener that is used to tighten the clamp. However once tighten, the head of the screw is stamped such that the tool used to install the clamp will no longer seat well enough for the clamp to be tightened or loosened. Because tamper-proof clamps are designed to be used only once, they are removed by either cutting them with a sturdy pair of side cutters, or by clamping a locking type of pliers onto the screw head and turning the lock screw counterclockwise to loosen. Once a screw type clamp is loosened, slide it off the portion of hose that is attached to the fitting, and the hose can be removed. Tamperproof clamps should not be reused and replaced with a conventional screw type fuel line clamp. An example of this type of tamper-proof clamp can be found on the M44 fuel rail return hose.

Crimped Band Fuel Clamp

FUEL LINES AND FITTINGS Type of Fuel Fitting » See Figure 1 BMW uses several types of fuel fittings. These include: e Aconventional screw clamp, both tamperproof and non-tamper-proof e Acrimped band fuel line clamp e Ashouldered metal line with an O-ring and fare nut or retainer e Two types of quick release couplings >For any fuel fitting that uses an O-ring, the O-ring should be lubricated with a light coating of engine oil during assembly.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Conventional Screw Clamp The conventional screw type clamped fuel fitting is such that a fuel line slides over rigid fitting and

» See Figure 2 Much like the tamper-proof screw clamp, these clamps are not intended to be reused and be removed by one of two methods. Once removed, these clamps can be replaced by a conventional screw clamp, or another crimped band clamp can

be installed if the appropriate crimping tool and clamp bands are available. An example of this type of clamp can be found on the brake booster-tointake manifold hose. Shouldered Metal Line

» See Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 The shouldered metal line fitting uses an O-ring to create a seal, and the line is held in place by a retainer, such as a flare nut or lock clip. The O-ring is installed around the line and bottomed against the shoulder and seals itself against the machined surface of the mating component. The retainer, either a lock clip or a flare nut secures the line in

90963P56 90963P70

Fig. 1 After disconnecting the fuel lines, they should be plugged to prevent debris from entering

Fig. 2 A crimped band clamp can be loosened by inserting a small, suitable prytool into the opening and moving it back and forth to loosen it

90965P03

Fig. 3 A flare nut, or line wrench should be used to remove a flare nut. It is less likely to round off a stubborn fuel line fas-

tener than an open-end wrench

90965P01

Fig. 4 The fuel injectors are held into the fuel rail with a retaining lock clip

90965P07 Fig. 5 Remove the retaining lock clip and

FUEL SYSTEM

5-8

Quick Disconnect Couplings The quick release fuel hose couplings are one of two types:

90964P88

90965P08

Fig. 6. . . remove the injector from the fuel rail—M44 injector shown

place. If a flare nut is used to retain the line, the flare nut is installed on the line to apply pressure to the shoulder and seat the O-ring. An example of a shouldered metal line with an

Fig. 7 The fuel rail feel line is sealed with an O-ring and held in place by the flare nut seating against the shoulder of the metal fuel line—M44 model shown

O-ring is the fuel rail feed line of the M44 fuel rail. An example of a shouldered metal line with a retaining clip, is the connection of the fuel injectors to the fuel rail.

e With an integrated unlocking device ¢ Without an integrated unlocking device These fittings lock onto a shouldered metal line and are typically found flexible hoses that attach to a metal line, such as the fuel feed or return lines of the fuel rail. The difference between the two types of unlocking devices is that the version with the integrated locking device does not require a special tool to remove. The version without the integrated unlocking device requires a release tool such as BMW Tool No. 16 1 050 or its equivalent. The version with the integrated locking device will have a small shoulder protruding from the fitting which is pressed toward the fitting to release or install the fuel line.

The version without the integrated locking device requires the use of a release tool to press the clip recessed in the fitting to release or install the fuel line.

ADAPTIVE MULTI-PORT ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION General Information > See Figure 8 The vehicles covered in this book are equipped with either the Bosch Digital Motor Electronics (DME) system or the Siemens MS system. Both engine management systems utilize an Engine Control Module (ECM) allowing the fuel metering and ignition system to adapt to the engine's operating parameters. The engine management systems used in 1989-95 BMW models meet the On Board Diagnostic version one (OBD 1)requirements. These systems have the ability to store fault codes which can be displayed via a blink code using the check engine light or accessed using the BMW diagnostic testers. The check engine light is also used as a warning light to indicate a failure of an engine management component. If the ECM contro! unit identifies a problem in the engine management system, the check engine light is turned on, and one or more fault codes are stored within the control unit. Beginning with model year 1996, as mandated by federal emissions standards, the BMW engine management systems became compliant with the On Board Diagnostic version two (OBD I!) requirements. The OBD II standards require that the engine management components that could affect the emission performance be electronically monitored, and should a failure occur an associated fault code

metering and ignition timing requirements are calculated based on sensor inputs and internal maps and are adjusted as required for the engine's operating parameters. Output signals from the ECM operate the idle control valve, fuel pump relay, fuel injectors and the ignition system. Each cylinder's fuel injector is located very near to the opening of the cylinder head's intake port and are operated semi sequentially or sequentially depending on the specific fuel management system. The air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and idle speed are not adjustable. The fuel mixture is controlled by the length of time the injector is opened. The adaptive capabilities of ' the engine management system occurs in a matter of milliseconds. Some of the components of the ECM/DME system can be tested with affordable test equipment such as a volt/ohmmeter, or an oscillo-

. Fuel tank Fuel pump . Fuel filter Fuel pressure regulator DME control unit . Ignition coil . Distributor . Spark plug FON CONDA . Injector 10. Throttle plate 11. Throttle position switch 12. Air flow sensor 13. Air temperature sensor 14, Oxygen sensor 15. Coolant temperature sensor 16. Idle speed control valve 17. Reference mark and engine speed sensor

stored in the ECM/DME control unit fault memory. Ifthe fault is detected in more than one drive cycle, the check engine light is activated. >For more information regarding the engine management systems, please refer to Section 4.

The ECM accepts input signals from the intake air flow or air mass sensor, crankshaft pulse sensor, __ cylinder identifying sensor, coolant and airtemperaIfe Sensors, One or more oxygen sensors, a switch and ifso equipped, the control unit known as the badd)

scope. The OBD | engine management system uses blink codes which can be read using the check engine light, however to access the fault memory of the EMC/DME on OBD I! systems requires using the BMW Diagnostic Tester or a suitable Data Scan Tool (DST) that only a dealer or a specialty shop would own. This does not preclude the average person from working on the fuel injection system as most problems can be diagnosed and solved using common tools and logical testing methods. To properly probe the electrical connections of the wiring or the components, a variety of test connectors are needed to provide accurate measurements and to avoid the risk of damaging a component's terminals or electrical connectors. In addition, just because a fault code is’stored does not mean that the related component has def-

18. Battery

19. Ignition switch 20. Air conditioning switch

84274010

Fig. 8 Basic components of theDigital Motor Electronics (DME) system used on 4-cylinder

| BMW models priorto 1996

9-4

FUEL SYSTEM

initely failed. The ECM/DME can only evaluate the signal it receives for a particular sensor's circuit. The ECM/DME has no way of knowing if the sensor is disconnected, if the sensor wiring is damaged, or the electrical connector(s) corroded or making poor contact. Any of these conditions could affect a sensor's electronic value and cause a fault to be stored. Because of the cost of specialty diagnostic equipment, it is often not a justifiable expense for the average consumer. The advantage this equipment offers is that these diagnostic testers can be connected to the vehicle without disconnecting or removing any components, and the vehicle can be tested dynamically while the engine is running or while the vehicle is test driven. This can be considerable time savings as many of the ECM/DME components are not readily accessible and the replacement cost of most components is relatively substantial. Furthermore, most parts vendors are not willing to accept returns on electrical components that have been previously installed, and proper diagnosis avoids replacing components unnecessarily. Without the use of sophisticated diagnostic equipment, the first step in repair or service to engine management systems is to document the circumstances and operating parameters as to when the problem occurs to gain as much information as possible, especially regarding an intermittent problem. Also, check any service records which may be available. Before checking fault codes, it is essential to check for any obvious loose wires, poor connections, and mechanical faults or failures. Remember, a trouble code only indicates which sensor or circuit is effected by the problem. Poor grounds, loose wires and simple mechanical faults such as a disconnected vacuum hose or leak or poor electrical connection can cause a fault to be stored. e>Never disconnect any wiring with the ignition switch ON. Always turn the ignition switch OFF when using an ohmmeter. On some vehicles produced before 1996, any time the battery or main power terminal is disconnected, the control unit fault memory could be erased. If using diagnostic equipment to access fault codes, make sure all codes have been retrieved before disconnecting the battery or

disconnecting the ECM/DME control unit.

For more information pertaining to the sensors and operating parameters of the engine management system, please refer to Section 4.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Relieving Fuel System Pressure » See Figures 9, 10 and 11

e>lf the fuel pump is to be replaced, the fuel filter should also be replaced.

The residual fuel system pressure can be relieved in one of two methods, depending on whether the engine or a related component must remain cold or not. 1. Remove the fuel tank filler cap. 2. If the engine or related component's temperature is not critical, proceed as follows: a. Locate the fuel pump relay in the under-

Never operate the fuel pump for a prolonged length of time while dry or with a restricted pick up as the pump is cooled and lubricated by the fuel.

hood fuse panel. b. Start the engine and allow it to idle. c. Remove the fuel pump relay and allow the engine to stall. d. Once the engine has stalled, attempt to restart the engine by engaging the starter motor for at least 3 seconds on three separate attempts. e. Reinstall the fuel pump relay. 3. Ifthe engine or related component must remain cold proceed as follows: a. Locate and clean the fuel rail inlet connection. b. Place a suitable container under the fuel connection and wrap it with a shop towel.

“ki CAUTION

Follow all precautions when working with gasoline and the resulting gasoline vapors. Relieve the fuel pressure before performing any work on the fuel system.

“+ CAUTION This procedure will generate gasoline fumes. Absolutely no flame or sparks should be in the area of the work being done. Gasoline fumes are heavier than air and will travel on the floor towards possible sources of ignition. Work in a well-ventilated area and wipe up any gasoline spills. Gasoline will irritate skin; avoid contact with gasoline. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury. E30 Models

Make sure the work area is well ventilated and free of ignition sources and sparks as fuel will be released under pressure. Make sure to wear eye protection, and avoid exposure of skin to fuel. Avoid inhaling fuel vapors. If using a droplight, keep the light away from the immediate work area and avoid placing the light below, or directly above the fuel fitting.

c. Slowly and carefully disconnect the fuel fitting and drain the fuel into the container. d. Cap the exposed fuel lines and fittings to avoid debris from entering. 4. Install the fuel filler cap.

EXCEPT M3 WITH EXTERNAL PUMP > See Figure 12 The M3 models with the S14 engine are equipped with two fuel pumps. The main pump is located outside the fuel tank and a pre-pump or transfer pump mounted in the fuel tank. Use the following procedures to remove the in-tank pre-pump on M3 S14 models and all other E30 models. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. If the tank is full, remove some fuel to lower the level. 3. Remove the rear seat cushion and peel back the insulating sheet to access the right side cover. 4. Remove the screws from the cover and lift

90966P02

Fig. 10 Refer to the relay location diagram Fig. 9 Open the underhood fuse panel

in the lid

Fig. 11 The fuel relay can be removed using the fuse removal tool that is stored in the fuse panel

FUEL SYSTEM

Fig. 12 The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank and is accessible once the rear seat cushion is removed

the cover off. Pull off the electrical plug and disconnect the fuel lines. Catch any spilled fuel. 5. Remove the four screws from the sender portion of pickup assembly. Slowly remove the sender to allow the fuel to drain into the tank. 6. Rotate the pickup assembly counterclockwise and pull out slowly. Allow the fuel to drain back into the tank. To install: 7. Replace the gasket and lower the pickup assembly into the fuel tank. Rotate the assembly clockwise to lock into place. 8. Replace the gasket and lower the fuel level sender into the pickup assembly. Replace the Screws. 9. Connect the fuel lines and electrical connector. Replace the cover and the insulating sheet. Install the rear seat cushion. 10. Connect the negative battery cable and check for normal operation and fuel leaks and repair as necessary.

1. Expansion tank

7. To charcoal canister

2. Fuel intake 3. Reservoir 4. Fuel pump

9. Fuel feed line 10. Fuel return line

8. Fuel tank

5. Fuel level sender 6. Pulsation damper

11. 12.

Left side vent Right side vent

Fig. 13 The fuel supply system—E30 Series M3 shown

9. Connect the negative battery cable and check for normal operation and fuel leaks and repair as necessary.

1, 2. 3. 4,

Fuel pump Fuel level sender Fuel tank flange Support rod

E36 Models

» See Figures 14 and 15 The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank and attached to the fuel level sensor assembly. Refer to the fuel level sensor removal procedures in Section 2 for removal and installation details.

84275038

M3 WITH EXTERNAL PUMP

Fig. 15 The fuel pump is located in the fuel tank and attached to the fuel level sensor—E36 model shown

» See Figure 13 The M3 is equipped with two fuel pumps. The main pump is located outside the fuel tank and a pre-pump or transfer pump mounted in the fuel tank. To replace the main pump, proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is in the OFF position. 3. Use fuel line block-off clamps on the inlet and outlet lines of the fuel pump to prevent fuel from leaking out once the fuel pump has been removed. j 4, Pull back the electrical connection covers and remove the wires. Loosen the hose connections

>On models with two fuel level sensors, the fuel pump is installed with the right side sensor.

TESTING Electrical Diagnosis

» See Figure 16

and remove the hoses.

5. Remove the nuts holding the fuel pump and

-femove the assembly. Disconnect the hose from the pump and remove the pump from the bracket.

\, \ \\

“To install:

6. Install the pump in the bracket and connect - thehose. Install the pump and bracket onto the car. 2the rubber isolators ifnecessary. 4 Connectthe nip+ oe the connec-

5-5

e

1, Fuel level sender 2. Gasket 3. Fuel feed pipe 4, Fuel pump 5, Pump holder 6, Damper 7, Fuel

8. Fuel tank flange

84275004

_ Fig. 14 View of the fuel pump and level (and resale sand

When the ignition switch is first turned to START, the contro! unit will complete the ground circuit for the pump relay coil and the relay closes to run the pump. When the control unit receives a signal from the crankshaft pulse sensor, itwill continue to operate the pump relay with the ignition switch in the RUN position. Ifthe engine is not rotating, the pump will not operated. For troubleshooting purposes, the fuel pump relay terminals can be jumped — to test the pump’s electrical circuit and to run the ;: pump for fuel system pressure testing. nn ee 1. Ifa fuel supply problem is suspected, remove the pump relay and check for 12 volts at terminal 30 of the relay socket. With the ignition— switch ON, there should be 12 volts at terminal 86 ota Bethe main DME relay. A ; ne '

9-6

FUEL SYSTEM

eat] +] > faaaig tee 2 Laer =ren Sa ties hoBea aa Say

SF

sie! 84275001

Fig. 16 View of the fuse and relay box containing the fuel pump relay and related components

2. Jump terminals 30 and 87 with a fused jumper on the relay socket. There should be power to the pump’s fuse and to the pump. Measure the voltage at the battery, then measure the voltage at the fuel pump. If the fuel pump voltage is 0.3 volts less than the battery voltage, check the fuel pump wiring for damage or a poor connection and repair as necessary. 3. Use a fused jumper wire to supply 12 volts to terminal 86 and ground to terminal 85 on the relay itself. Do not reverse the polarity or the relay will be destroyed. The relay should close and there should be continuity between terminals 30 and 87. 4. \fthe pump runs when the terminals are jumped and the relay is good, but the pump stops when the ignition switch is in the RUN position, the control unit may not be receiving a signal from the crankshaft pulse sensor. 5. The pump can also be checked for a current draw by connecting an ammeter in series to the positive lead of the fuel pump. The current draw on the fuel pump should not exceed 5.0 amps. If the current draw is excessive, check for a restricted fuel pick up screen, fuel line or fuel filter and replace or repair as necessary. If the current draw remains above 5.0 amps, the pump should be replaced.

Fuel Delivery And Pressure Testing e>On vehicles with metal fuel lines, if a fuel rail adapter is not available, check the fuel pump pressure at the fuel pump outlet. On vehicles with in tank fuel pumps, access the outlet fuel line located at the top of the fuel gauge sending unit.

2 CAUTION The following procedure will produce fuel vapors. Make sure there is proper ventilation and take the appropriate fire safety pre_ Cautions otherwise personal injury may occur. 1. Make sure the battery is in good condition the fuel pump wiring and ground connections ~-are good. It is important the pump receive a full 12 volts. ’

2. Disconnect the fuel supply hose. Install a 13 3 60 or an equivalent 100 psi pressure gauge with a T-fitting. 3. Disconnect the fuel return hose and securely install a long hose to the return fitting. Place the other end into a 4 quart or 4000 cc measuring container. 4, Remove the fuel pump relay and connect a jumper wire with a switch to relay socket terminals 30 and 87. The pump will run whenever the terminals are connected, so be sure to use a jumper with a Switch. 5. Run the pump for 30 seconds and time the run carefully. The pump should flow as follows: e 4-cylinder engines: 29.6 oz. (875 cc) in 30 seconds e 6-cylinder engines except Z3 and M50/S50: 29.6 02. (875 cc) in 30 seconds @ M50 and S50 engines: 37.8 oz. (1120 cc) in 30 seconds e 6-cylinder Z3 engines: 34.8 oz. (1030 cc) in 30 seconds 6. If the flow is low, the pump is faulty or the filter is clogged. 7. Connect the fuel return hose and operate the pump carefully. The pump’s operating pressure should be as follows: e 4-cylinder engines: 42.6—44.4 psi (2.94-3.06 bar) e 6-cylinder engines: except Z3 and M50/S50 engines: 42.6—-44.4 psi (2.94-3.06 bar) e 23 and M50 & S50 6-cylinder engines: 49.9-51.6 psi (3.44-3.56 bar) 8. If the flow is correct but the pressure is low or does not hold, clamp the return hose and run the pump again briefly to read the pressure. If the pressure is now correct and holds, the pressure regulator in the supply rail is faulty. 9. If the pressure is still low or does not hold, there is a leak in the system, possibly an injector or the fuel pump check valve. The pressure will be lower if the engine is running because the pressure regulator will be supplied with engine vacuum. 10. Ifthe fuel pressure appears to be low, repeat

the pressure test while gradually pinching off the

fuel return line. If the pressure does not rise quickly and remains low, replace the pump assembly. 11. Ifthe fuel pressure is too high and the fuel lines and filter are good the fuel pump check valve may be stuck closed and should be replaced. 12. When the pump is stopped, the pressure should not drop more than 7 psi (.5 bar) for 20 minutes. If the pressure does not hold, there is a leak within the system, possibly an injector, fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump check valve. The symptoms of this condition of each of these could be: Injector: e Engine misfire, or rough idle e Reduced fuel economy Fuel pressure regulator: ¢ Poor off idle response, hesitation or poor acceleration Fuel pump check valve: e Hard starting with warm engine ¢ Temporary rough idle during warm engine restart

Throttle Body The throttle body contains the throttle plates which controls the amount of air flowing into the engine. The throttle plate is connected to the accelerator pedal via a cable on all models except the 5 Series with traction control. The 5 Series cars that have traction control have a system called EML, translated into English is Electronic Motor Load regulation. EML is a system that controls the throttle not by cable, but by an electric servo motor. A sensor on the accelerator pedal feeds information about throttle position to the EML controller. The EML controller telis the servo motor on the throttle body how far to open the throttle plate. Because of the electronic control, there is no need for a separate cruise control actuator, for a transmission control cable or for a throttle cable. The only connection to the throttle body is a multi-pin electrical connector.

*k¢ CAUTION When ever work is performed on an EML component, such as the throttle body, the external safety check must be made. This is to make sure that the electronic throttle system is working properly. If the electronic throttle system is not working properly, the car may behave erratically causing personal injury or death. The procedure to perform the external safety path check requires a special BMW tool 12 7 010 or equivalent. Do not attempt any repairs on an EML related part without having access to the tool.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Except $14 Engine

» See Figures 17 and 18 1. On the M20 engine drain the coolant to below the level of the throttle body. '

2. Turn the ignition switchtotheOFF 3, Remove the intake air duct from

body. If equipped with EML, %remove connector. i

FUEL SYSTEM age. Remove the Torx®nuts holding the throttle bodies to the cylinder head. Remove the throttle bodies. 6. Separate the throttle bodies if necessary. e>The throttle shaft is supported by needle bearings. Do not draw the shaft through the bearings without making sure the shaft is clean. Dirt will cause damage the bearings and the shaft. Do not use any tools on the shaft that could damage the surface of the shaft. Do not disturb any of the adjustments on the throttle bodies. The settings are optimized at the factory and marked with paint dots. 84275007

Fig. 17 Nuts 1 through 4 retain the throttle body—M42 engine

84275008

Fig. 18 Nuts 1 through 4 retain the throttle body—M50 engine

4. Disconnect the throttle cable, the transmission cable and the cruise control cable. Mark and disconnect the vacuum lines and the air hoses. Move the idle speed control valve out of the way. Disconnect the coolant hoses on the M20 engine. 5. Remove the mounting nuts and remove the throttle body. To install: 6. Clean the mating surfaces of the throttle body and the intake manifold. Install a new gasket and the throttle body. Torque the mounting nuts to 6.5-8.0 ft. Ibs. (9-11 Nm). 7. Connect the hoses, vacuum lines and air hoses to the throttle body. Replace the idle speed control valve. 8. Connect the throttle cables or EML connector. Install the intake air duct.

$14 Engine

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Remove the cap nuts holding the intake manifold to the throttle bodies. Disconnect the throttle cable and the air hoses. The crankcase breather hose will have to be cut off. Remove the

intake manifold.

—

3. Disconnect the harness from the throttle switch. Remove the fuel injector electrical plug plate

from the injectors. 4. Remove the vacuum hose from the fuel _ pressure regulator. Remove the 2 mounting bolts

and remove the fuel rail complete with the fuel

e nut holding the throttle linki

Ve

To install: 7. If any components on the throttle bodies or linkage have been disturbed, they will have to be adjusted for proper operation. 8. The throttle body gaskets may be reused if there is no damage to the ridge around the gasket opening. Use a thin bead of silicon sealer around the opening ridge. Replace the gasket if there is any damage. 9. Attach the throttle bodies and check the condition of the connecting pipe O-ring for damage. Replace if necessary. 10. Install the throttle bodies to the cylinder head with the new or used gasket. Torque the mounting nuts to 6.5-8.0 ft. Ibs. (9-11 Nm). 11. Connect the throttle linkage with a new locknut. Replace the fuel injectors and fuel rail. Torque the mounting nuts to 6.5-8.0 ft. lbs. (9-11 Nm). 12. Install the fuel injector electrical plug plate and the throttle switch connector. 13. Check the intake manifold O-rings and replace if necessary. Install a new crankcase breather hose. Install the intake manifold, air hoses and throttle cable.

ADJUSTMENTS The only throttle body adjustments that can or should be done are on the S14 engines. The other engines are equipped with throttle bodies that need no adjustments. The S14 engine throttle body adjustments should be performed only if the throttle bodies were disassembled or damage occurred. Special tools needed for these procedures include feeler gauges, dial indicators, dial indicator mounts, and vernier calipers. The settings are very precise and require familiarity with the tools being used. Idle Speed Stop

1. Loosen the idle speed adjustment stop lock nut and loosen the screw 1/10 of a turn in the counterclockwise direction. 2. Close the throttle plates and press the throttle lever against the stop screw. Tighten the nut. 3. Install a dial indicator on the throttle body with the tip on the deepest point of the throttle plate. Preload the tip and zero the dial. 4. Loosen the nut and turn in the screw to move the throttle plate 0.004—-0.006 inch (0.10-0.15mm). This will be approximately 1/10 of a turn. Tighten the locknut and mark with a paint dot. Axial Clearance 1. The measurements used in this procedure are based on the ambient temperature being 68°F.

5-7

2. Close the throttle plates. Check that the throttles move easily. 3. Check that a 0.008 inch (0.2mm) feeler gauge can fit between throttle body housing and the snapring or throttle lever. 4, Check for damage or warpage if the feeler gauge does not fit.

Full Load Stop

1. Open the throttle plates to the full open position. 2. Measure the distance from the top edge of the throttle plate to the top of the throttle bore. The measurement should be 0.854 inch (21.7mm). 3. Ifthe measurement is not correct, loosen the locknut on the screw mounted in the middle of each throttle housing, between the throttle bores. Move the screw to achieve the correct measurement. Do not change the length of the throttle link-

ages. 4. If there is any deviation from the measurement, it should be evenly shared by each of the throttle housing. Throttle Lever

1. The throttle lever pushrods must be check and adjusted for length. On the S14 engine, the pushrod for cylinders 1 and 2 should be 3.937 inch (100mm) and the pushrod for cylinders 3 and 4 should be 3.822—3.854 inch (97.1-97.9mm). 2. Install the pushrods and align the levers. Loosen and move the clamps to obtain alignment. 3. Install a dial indicator on cylinder 3 and 4 throttle lever. Adjust the cylinders 1 and 2 pushrod until movement is noted on the dial indicator. The throttle levers are adjusted when they evenly hit the idle speed stop.

CHECKING EXTERNAL SAFETY PATH This procedure must be completed anytime a component of the EML throttle by wire system is

removed or disconnected. It requires tool 12 7 010 or equivalent. Do not work on any EML component without having access to this tool. 1. Turn the ignition switch to OFF. Unplug the EML connector. The EML connector is grouped with the DME engine connectors. The EML connector is next to the engine diagnostic connector, centered in the group of 3 circular connectors. 2. Install the EML testing adapter 12 7 010 or equivalent to the EML connector inline. Make sure all connections are tight. 3. Turn the knob on the tester to the left position and start the engine. Adjust the engine speed to 2500 rpm with the tester knob. 4. Depress the brake pedal. The engine speed should drop immediately due to the overrun shutoff provision. 5. Ifthe engine speed does not drop immediately, check the EML system for faults. If the speed does drop immediately, the EML external safety path is functioning.

6. Shut off the engine and remove the tester.

0-8

FUEL SYSTEM 3. Pull up and remove the fuel injector electrical

Fuel Rail and Injectors —

plug plate. 4. Disconnect the fuel lines and pressure regulator vacuum hose. 5. Pull the fuel rail up and out of the intake man-

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figure 19 If possible, always replace fuel injectors with like units. Different manufacturers have been used for the fuel injectors, and though they function and test the same way their flow rate may vary slightly and the injectors should not be mixed on the same engine.

CAUTION Because the fuel injection system develops significant fuel pressure, always inspect the injector O-rings and if equipped, the fuel rail feed line O-ring carefully. Whenever possible do not reuse the O-rings. The O-rings must be replaced if they are: e Brittle e Cracked e Deformed e Compressed e Damaged, cracked cut or chafed Always lubricate the injector O-rings and the fuel rail O-ring with fresh oil or petroleum jelly to ease assembly and to avoid chafing or damaging them.

$14 Engine 1. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the bolts from the fuel rail. Disconnect the throttle switch electrical plug. -

ifold. Remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail. To install: 6. Check the O-rings on the injector and replace if necessary. Check that all the injectors are of like types. Lubricate the O-rings with fresh oil or petroleum jelly and install them on the fuel rail. 7. Install the fuel rail on the manifold and tighten the bolts to 6.5-8.0 ft. Ibs. (9-11 Nm). Install the electrical plate and connectors. M20 Engine 1. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the intake manifold support from the manifold and valve cover. 3. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical plug plate lead under the intake manifold. 4. Disconnect the two coolant temperature sensors. Pull up and remove the fuel injector electrical plug plate. 5. Remove the 4 mounting bolts and pull the fuel rail up and out of the intake manifold. Remove the fuel injectors from the fuel rail. To install: 6. Check the O-rings on the injector and replace if necessary. Check that all the injectors are of like types. Lubricate the O-rings with fresh oil or petroleum jelly and install them on the fuel rail. 7. Install the fuel rail on the manifold and tighten the bolts to 6.5-8.0 ft. Ibs. (9-11 Nm). Install the electrical plate and connectors. 8. Connect the temperature sensors and the fuel injector electrical plate. Install the intake manifold support and tighten the bolts to 15-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm).

M42 Engine

> See Figures 20, 21 and 22

2

2. Code number 3. Plastic washer

4. Injector guard 5. Connector 84275009

Fig. 19 View of a typical BMW fuel injec-

seo, WW Ge"

ater | et ee te ae)

1. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the upper section of the intake manifold. 3. Remove the electrical plug plate from the injectors. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail. 4. Remove the fuel rail mounting bolts and pull the fuel rail with injectors up and off. Remove the retainers and the injectors from the fuel rail.

~ (D>

Hj

hetbi

84275010

Fig. 21 These vacuum hoses must be |

Fig. 20 Upper manifold retaining nuts and

| vacuum line—M42 engine ir

.

J


See Figures 23 thru 30 1. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the upper intake manifold. For specific details, refer to Section 3. 3. Detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors and place the harness aside, then remove the pressure regulator dampening valve vacuum hose at the front of the fuel rail. 4. The two hose clamps for the fuel rail return line are stamped to be tamper-proof. To remove, use a pair of locking pliers and attach them onto the clamp’s adjustment screw head securely. Turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise until the clamp is loosened. Loosen both clamps and slide to the middle of the fuel line. 5. Using a 12mm line wrench, loosen the fuel rail feel line flare nut and once loose, slide the flare nut away from the fuel rail. 6. To avoid debris from entering the injector ports, If compressed air is available, using an air nozzle, and wearing eye protection, carefully spray compressed air around the base of the injectors. If excessive debris exists, spray the base of the injectors with an evaporating brake cleaner and spray again with compressed air. If compressed air is not available, spray the brake cleaner to clean as best as possible. 7. Using a 10mm socket, short extension and a ratchet, remove the two fuel rail mounting bolts. 8. Use a clean shop towel folded over several times to form a small pad, and place on the corner of the valve cover. Then using a suitable and sturdy prytool, slowly and carefully lift the fuel rail until the injectors are just removed from the manifold, then remove the fuel feed and fuel return lines away from the fuel rail and remove the entire assembly with the large vent hoses still attached and set aside. 9. Remove the fuel injector retaining clip from the fuel rail, then remove the injector from

FUEL SYSTEM

90964P88 Fig. 23 Inspect the feed line O-ring and replace as necessary. Lubricate the O-ring

with fresh oil or petroleum jelly before reassembly

90965P04

90965P03

Fig. 24 Using a line wrench helps to avoid rounding off a flare nut

90965P05

Fig. 26 Protect the valve cover with a soft protective cloth and carefully pry the

injectors and fuel rail away from the manifold

™ S068P06 Fig. 27 The injectors can be removed from the fuel rail once the assembly is lifted away from the intake manifold

90965P10

Fig. 30. . . then remove the injector. Lubricate the O-rings with fresh oil or Fig. 29 Remove the metal clip and. . .

the fuel rail and remove the injector from the air vent hose. To install: 10. The installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following items. 11. Inspect the injector O-rings and the fuel rail feed line O-ring carefully and replace as necessary. If possible do not reuse the 12. Lubricate the injector O-rings and the fuel rail O-ring with fresh oil or petroleum jelly before assembling them to avoid chafing or damaging the O-ring.

M50, $50, M52 and $52 Engines

» See Figures 31 and 32 1. Properly relieve the residual fuel system pressure.

5-9

petroleum jelly during reassembly

2. Remove the ECM/DME control module housing cover screws on the right side of the firewall. Remove the rubber strips along the wire duct by pulling up. Remove the screws from the wire duct and pull itout. This will allow enough movement in the injector wires to remove the injector electrical plug plate. 3. Remove the oil filler cap and the valve cover trim. Remove the injector area cover. 4. Disconnect the fuel feed at the front of the fuel rail. Remove the two screws holding the injector electrical plug plate. Pull up and remove from the injectors. 5. Disconnect the fuel return line. Remove the two bolts holding the fuel rail and remove the fuel rail by pulling off with the injectors. Remove the injectors from the fuel rail.

Fig. 25 The fuel rail is held onto the manifold with two fasteners. A 10mm socket, extension and ratchet are used for this procedure

90965P01

Fig. 28 The injectors are held onto the fuel rail with a metal clip

84275013

Fig. 31 Fuel feed hose connection to the fuel rail—M50 engine illustrated

sere.

Fig. 32 The fuel rail is on the right, the injector plug plate on the left as shown with the cover loosened showing the wiring. It is not necessary to uncover the

wiring when removing the plug plate— M50 engine shown

9-10

FUEL SYSTEM

To install: 6. Check the O-rings on the injector and replace if necessary. Check that all the injectors are of like types. Lubricate the O-rings with fresh oil or petroleum jelly and install them on the fuel rail. 7. Install the fuel rail and tighten the bolts to 6.5-8.0 ft. Ibs. (9-11 Nm). Connect the fuel lines. Install the electrical plug plate. 8. Install the fuel rail cover and the valve cover Cladding with the oil filler cap. Install the wire duct and the rubber stripping.

TESTING

¢ Defective or disconnected oxygen sensor ¢ Defective engine coolant or air temperature

sensor e The fuel delivery system such as a low fuel pump output If the spark plugs differ in their appearance, this may be an indication as to which injector may be malfunctioning. There are companies that specialize in fuel injectors and using specific test equipment, the can flow test the injectors and may be able to flush them of deposits. Cylinder Drop Method

The fuel injectors are an electro-mechanical device comprised of two interrelated systems, one being mechanical, the other electronic. The injector has two electrical terminals, one which receives a constant battery voltage when the ignition is switched to the ON position. The injector is triggered by a pulsating ground signal from the ECM/DME control module. The rate and the amount of time that the control module supplies the ground signal occurs in milliseconds, thus because the fuel supply and pressure for the injector is relatively constant by virtue of the fuel regulator, the fuel mixture is basically controlled by the length of time the injector is opened. The mechanical portion of the injector is comprised of a small needle and its seat. When the injec_ tor is triggered by the electrical voltage, the needle is lifted of its seat and fuel is sprayed through its outlet nozzle. If debris is allowed to enter the injector, the needle can fail to properly seal against the seat and cause the injector to leak fuel when it is not being triggered, causing a rich running condition. If debris enters the injectors spray nozzle, or if the spray nozzle is develops an accumulation of carbon particles, the spray pattern of the injector can be affected causing a lean running condition. A significant build up of carbon on an intake valve or the injector can also act like a sponge, which will absorb the fuel spray, also causing a lean running condition. Because the injectors can be affected by an accumulation of deposits, BMW offers a fuel system additive that can be used to help keep them free of deposits and it's a good recommendation to use the additive at least once a year.

When using a fuel additive, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Most additives are added to a full tank of fuel. Using an additive with an insufficient fuel level could damage the low fuel indicator sensor or other related fuel injection components. Ifa lean or rich running condition exists, most likely the check engine light will be activated. When attempting to diagnose a rich or lean running condition, a good start is to remove and examine the spark plugs from each cylinder. Remove the plugs keeping them in order for each cylinder. When reinstalling the spark plugs, replace any plugs that have ___ built up deposits, have become fuel fouled or damaged. Ifall of the spark plugs exhibit the same appearance, the running problem could also be

related to one of the following: ____® Defective fuel pressure regulator

=~e Arestricted fuel filter or fuel line

_® A poor electrical contact or poor ground

The injectors make an audible “clicking” noise as they are activated by the electrical pulses. Check for an audible “clicking” noise as follows: 1. If necessary remove any trim covers surrounding the fuel injector electrical connectors. 2. If necessary remove any trim covers surrounding the fuel injectors. 3. Place the transmission in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), set the parking brake and block the road wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. 4. Start the engine. 5. Unplug the fuel injector electrical connectors, one injector at-a time. When the connector is removed the engine idle speed should drop. 6. Repeat this procedure for each injector and note the amount the engine's idle speed drops. If the idle speed does not change when the injector's electrical connector is removed, check the voltage signal for the injector. If a voltage signal is present, check the injector and replace as necessary. If the injector is not found to be defective, check that cylinder’s spark plug color to determine if the cylinder misfire is caused by insufficient or excessive fuel. Ifneces* sary check the ignition system operation. Audible Check

The injectors make an audible “clicking” noise as they are activated by the electrical pulses. Check

for an audible “clicking” noise as follows: 1. If necessary remove any trim covers surrounding the fuel injectors. 2. Place the transmission in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual), set the parking brake and block the road wheels to prevent the vehicle from moving. 3. Start the engine. 4. Using a stethoscope or a long shank screwdriver with a composite handle, check each injector for a clicking noise. If using a suitable screwdriver, place the end of the shank onto the injector and carefully place the composite handle against your ear. A clicking noise should be heard. If a clicking noise is not heard, perform an electrical check of the injector's wiring, and if possible, check the resistance of the injector. 5. Repeat the above procedure for each injector. Resistance Check

» See Figure 33

> WARNING When performing a resistance check of the ee, circuit, pret shelohmmeter should

Fig. 33 Using a suitable set of jumper leads allows an inaccessible injector to be checked

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Remove any trim panels or components necessary to access the fuel injector’s electrical connec-

tor. . 3. Label and detach the injector’s electrical connector. ; 4. Using an ohmmeter with suitable probes, probe the two electrical connectors of the injector. The injector should have continuity. Ifthe ohmmeter indicates an open circuit, the injector must be replaced. Although the factory does not supply resistance values for their injectors, during our teardown when checked, the measured injector resistance was 16.4 ohms.

Voltage Checks VOLTMETER

» See Figure 34

*k< CAUTION When performing a voltage check of the injector circuit, a digital voltmeter must be used. Otherwise the ECM/DME — module could be damaged.

1. Remove any trim panels or components necessary to access the fuel injector’s electrical connector. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Using a digital voltmeter, if possible, install a suitable set of jumper leads into the injector's electrical connector, or carefully back probe the connector. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and attempt to start the vehicle by engaging the starter motor and check for a pulsating voltage signal. 5. Repeat the above procedure for each injector. 6. Ifa pulsating voltage signal is not present:

a. Leave the ignition switch in the ON position.

b. Attach one lead of the digital voltmeterto a known good ground and check forbattery volt-

age at one of the injectors electrical oni terminals for each injector. If: + Battery voltage is not prese main relay and wiring to tt

FUEL SYSTEM

5-11

90964P35

Fig. 34 A piggy-backed set of jumper leads allows the engine to run while the injector’s electrical circuit is tested

:

90965P09

Fig. 35 The pressure regulator mounts onto the fuel rail—M44 engine shown

Fuel Pressure Regulator » See Figure 35 The fuel pressure regulator is used to keep the fuel pressure in the fuel rail consistent and change the fuel pressure depending on the throttle position. The fuel rail is in a fuel loop between the fuel pump feed and return lines. Because the fuel delivery requirements change depending on the engine's throttle position and engine loads, the . fuel injection system must be able to adapt to meet the fuel requirements of the engine's operating conditions during idle, acceleration and steady cruising. The fuel pressure regulator has a small vacuum line attached to itthat allows the pressure regulator to change the fuel pressure in the fuel loop depending upon the intake manifold pressure which changes as the throttle position changes. When the throttle is opened, the manifold vacuum pressure drops off, causing the pressure regulator to increase the fuel pressure in the fuel loop, which increases _ the amount of fuel delivery at the injectors to pro-

84275015

Fig. 36 Remove the front brace to access the fuel pressure regulator—E36 model M42 engine

84275016

Fig. 37 Remove the bolt to remove the fuel pressure regulator—E36 model M42 engine

vide for the additional fuel needed for the engine to operate properly.

At idle, the manifold vacuum increases and the demands for the rate of fuel delivery are decreased so the pressure regulator decreases the fuel pres-

sure in the fuel loop.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION $14 and M20 Engines 1. The fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the end of the fuel rail and has a vacuum line and a fuel line attached to it. 2. Relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 3. Disconnect the fuel hose and the vacuum hose. 4, Remove the two bolts holding the regulator to. the fuel rail. Pull the regulator off the fuel rail. To install: 5. Inspect the O-ring on the fuel rail inlet of the regulator. Apply a light coating of fresh oil or petroleum jelly to the O-rings. Install the regulator on the fuel rail and tighten the bolts. 6. Connect the fuel hose and vacuum hose.

M42 Engine

MOUNTED IN E30 CHASSIS

—

1. Relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the front intake manifold support brace. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator. Loosen the mounting clamp bolt and remove the clamp. 4. Be ready to catch the fuel that will leak out of the fuel rail. Pull the regulator down and out of the fuel rail. To install: 5. Inspect the O-ring on the fuel rail inlet of the regulator. Apply a light coating of fresh oil or petroleum jelly to the O-rings. Install the regulator on the fuel rail and mount the clamp. Tighten the bolts. 6. Connect the fuel hose and vacuum hose. Install the front manifold brace.

MOUNTED IN E36 CHASSIS » See Figures 36 and 37 1. Relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the front intake manifold support brace.

0-12

FUEL SYSTEM

3. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator. Loosen the mounting bracket bolt and remove the bracket. 4. Be ready to catch the fuel that will leak out of the fuel rail. Pull the regulator out of the fuel rail. To install: 5. Inspect the O-ring on the fuel rail inlet of the regulator. Apply a light coating of fresh oil or petroleum jelly to the O-rings. Install the regulator on the fuel rail and mount the bracket. Tighten the bolt. 6. Connect the fuel hose and vacuum hose. Install the front manifold brace. M44 Engine

> See Figures 38 and 39 1. Relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the front intake manifold support brace. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the regulator. 4, Remove the large retaining clip and rotate the regulator side to side and carefully pry away using a suitable prytool.

5. Be ready to catch the fuel that will leak out of the fuel rail. Pull the regulator out of the fuel rail. To install: 6. Replace the O-rings on the fuel rail inlet of the regulator. Apply a light coating of fresh oil or petroleum jelly to the O-rings. Install the regulator into its holder on the fuel rail and install the retaining clip. 7. Connect the fuel hose and vacuum hose. Install the front manifold brace.

M50, $50, M52 and $52 Engines

> See Figures 40 and 41 1. Relieve the residual fuel system pressure. 2. Remove the ECM/DME control module housing cover screws on the right side of the firewall. 3. Remove the rubber strips along the wire duct by carefully pulling them up, then remove the screws from the wire duct and pull it out to allow enough movement in the injector wires to remove the injector electrical plug plate.

4. Remove the oil filler cap and the valve cover trim. Cover the oil fill opening with a clean shop towel, then remove the injector area trim cover. 5. Disconnect the fuel feed at the front of the fuel rail. Remove the two screws holding the injector electrical plug plate. Pull up and remove from the injectors. 6. Disconnect the fuel return line. Remove the two bolts holding the fuel rail and remove the fuel rail by pulling it off with the injectors. Remove the clamp holding the pressure regulator and remove it from the fuel rail. To install: 7. Check the O-rings on the regulator and replace if necessary. Apply a light coating of fresh oil or petroleum jelly to the O-rings. Install on the fuel rail. 8. Install the fuel rail and tighten the bolts to 6.5-8.0 ft. Ibs. (9-11 Nm). Connect the fuel lines. Install the electrical plug plate. Connect the vacuum hose to the regulator. 9. Install the fuel rail cover and the valve cover cladding with the oil filler cap. Install the wire duct and the rubber stripping.

84275017

Fig. 38 The fuel pressure regulator is mounted to the fuel rail—M44

engine shown

Fig. 40 Remove the clamp to release the fuel pressure regulator— M50 engine

84275018

Fig. 39 This fuel pressure regulator is held in place with a large cir’ clip—M44 engine shown

Fig. 41 Check the condition of the fuel pressure regulator O-rings before installation

FUEL SYSTEM TESTING 1. Connect a suitable fuel pressure gauge as Outlined in the fuel pressure checking procedures in this section, so the engine can be started and

allowed to idle. On some models, if the fuel rail does not have a fitting or the fuel inlet line is metal or inaccessible, the gauge must be installed using a

T-fitting where the fuel feed line exits the fuel tank on models equipped, except the E30 M3 models with an in-tank fuel pump. 2. Start the engine, allow the engine to idle and check and note the fuel pressure reading. 3. Disconnect the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure should increase between 5.8-10.1 psi (0.4—0.7 bar).

5-13

4. Reinstall the vacuum line and the pressure should drop. If the pressure does not change when the vacuum line is removed and reinstalled, replace the pressure regulator. e>The operating pressure of the fuel pressure regulator is stamped on the regulator housing.

FUEL TANK Tank Assembly The fuel tank is mounted below the vehicle under the trunk area or rear seat area. The tank on the E30 and E36 models is mounted to the underside of the body beneath the rear seat bottom and is divided into two sections to allow clearance for the driveshaft. Fuel is transferred from one side to the fuel pump side by a jet action pump. Fuel being returned by the fuel pressure regulator draws the fuel from the left side of the tank through an orifice, using a venturi effect, so no mechanical pump is necessary. The fuel is directed to the right side tank and is picked up by the electrical fuel pump.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

“kt CAUTION Gasoline is extremely flammable and the vapors can be explosive. Work in a well ventilated area away from any sources of ignition. Keep a fire extinguisher of the type for liquid fueled fires within reach during the handling of gasoline. Personal injury or death can result from mishandling gasoline. E30 Models

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Remove the fuel from the tank by draining or siphoning.

Fig. 4 2Fuel tank mounting points—E36 3 Series he,

ara

2. Remove the rear seat bottom cushion and pull back the plastic sheet. 3. Remove the covers on both sides to expose the fuel pickups and level senders. Mark and disconnect the hoses and electrical plugs. 4. Remove the fuel level senders from both sides of the tank as equipped. Siphon out any remaining fuel from the tank from the openings. 5. Remove the rear muffler, heat shield and the connecting pipe. Remove the driveshaft. 6. Disconnect the fuel pipes and hoses from the tank. Remove the stone guards on both sides. 7. Support the fuel tank. Remove the fastening hardware and tilt the tank down to remove. To install: 8. Tilt the tank into place and torque the nuts to 18-20 ft. Ibs. (25-28 Nm). Torque the bolts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (22-24 Nm). 9. Install the stone guards and connect the hoses and pipes to the tank. Install the driveshaft. Install the connecting pipe and torque to 17-19 ft. lbs. (23-27 Nm), 10. Install the heat shield and torque to 6.0-6.5 ft. Ibs. (8-9 Nm). Install the rear muffler. 11. Install the fuel level senders in the tank. Connect the electrical plugs and the hoses. 12. Install the covers and the plastic sheet. Install the rear seat cushion. Torque the drain plug to 16-18 ft. Ibs. (21-25 Nm). Fill the tank with gasoline before operating the fuel pumps.

E36 Models Except Z3

» See Figures 42, 43 and 44 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Remove the fuel from the tank by draining or

siphoning. 2. Remove the rear seat bottom cushion and pull back the plastic sheet. 3. Remove the covers on both sides to expose the fuel pickups and level senders. Mark and disconnect the hoses and electrical plugs. 4. From under the vehicle, use fuel line blockoff clamps on the fuel feed and return lines. This will prevent fuel from running out of the lines once disconnected. Loosen the hose clamps at the connections and disconnect the lines. 5. Remove the 6 screws holding the heat shield. Remove from the vehicle. Remove the driveshaft. 6. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the parking brake lever. Push the cables out from the clamps and pull out of the holder. 7. Disconnect the filler hose from the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank from below. Remove the mounting bolts and lower the tank. 8. Disconnect the tank vent line at the tank. Unclip the lines and remove the fuel tank. To install: 9. Place the tank into position and connect the vent line. Replace the vent lines into position. Install the tank mounting bolts and torque to 16-17 ft. lbs. (22-24 Nm). 10. Connect the filler hose. Install the parking

Fig. 43 Disconnect the vent line and unclip from the tank—E36 3 Series

0-14

FUEL SYSTEM block-off clamps. Connect the fuel lines and the electrical connectors at the fuel pickups and level senders. 12. Install the rear seat cushion. Fill the tank with gasoline before operating the fuel pumps. Z3 Models

Fig. 44 Disconnect the vent pipes 2 and 3—E36 3 Series

brake cables by passing through the holders and into the clamps. Connect at the parking brake lever. 11. Install the driveshaft and the heat shield. Connect the fuel feed and return lines. Remove the

1. Remove the fuel from the fuel tank using a suitable fuel recovery device. 2. Remove the rear axle assembly, and if necessary, remove the carbon canister. 3. Disconnect the ground strap. 4. Using Tool No. 16 1 040 or its equivalent, disconnect the fuel tank ventilation line. 5. Disconnect and plug the fuel feed and return lines. 6. Support the fuel tank. 7. Remove the fasteners on the rear of the

clamping straps, then remove the fastener and support washer at the front of the fuel tank. 8. Lower the fuel tank 2—4 inches (50-100mm) and disconnect the electrical connector at the fuel level sensor. 9. Verify that all fuel lines, clamps and electrical connectors are completely removed. 10. Carefully lower the tank to remove. To install: 11. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 12. Replace any fuel clamps removed during disassembly. 13. Make sure all hose connections and electrical connectors are properly installed and routed properly. 14. Do not attempt to start the vehicle without replenishing the fuel tank with fuel. Operating the fuel pump without fuel could damage the pump.

—_= =

UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 6-2 BASIC ELECTRICAL THEORY 6-2 HOW DOES ELECTRICITY WORK: THE WATER ANALOGY 6-2 OHM'S LAW 6-2 ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS 6-2 POWER SOURCE 6-2 GROUND 6-3 PROTECTIVE DEVICES 6-3 SWITCHES & RELAYS 6-3 LOAD 6-3 WIRING & HARNESSES 6-3 CONNECTORS 6-4 TEST EQUIPMENT 6-5 JUMPER WIRES 6-5 TEST LIGHTS 6-5 MULTIMETERS 6-5 TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 6-6 TESTING 6-7 OPEN CIRCUITS 6-7 SHORT CIRCUITS 6-7 VOLTAGE 6-7 VOLTAGE DROP 6-7 RESISTANCE 6-7 WIRE AND CONNECTOR REPAIR 6-8 BATTERY CABLES 6-8 DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY CABLES 6-8 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) 6-9 GENERAL INFORMATION 6-9 SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 6-9 DISARMING THE SYSTEM 6-10 ARMING THE SYSTEM 6-10 HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING 6-10 FRESH AIR INTAKE DUCT 6-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-10 HEATER BLOWER MOTOR 6-11 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-11 HEATER CORE 6-12 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-12 HEATER WATER CONTROL VALVE 6-13 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-13 AIR CONDITIONING COMPONENTS 6-13 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-13 CONTROL CABLES 6-13 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-13 CONTROL PANEL 6-14 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-14 MICRO-FILTER 6-14 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-14 CRUISE CONTROL 6-14 ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 6-15 RADIO RECEIVER 6-15 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-15 SPEAKERS 6-15

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-15 WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND WASHERS 6-15 WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADES & ARMS 6-15 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-15 WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR & LINKAGE 6-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-16 WINDSHIELD WASHER PUMP. 6-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-18 WIPER & WASHER CONTROL UNIT/RELAY 6-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-18 INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES 6-18 INSTRUMENT CLUSTER 6-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-18 GAUGES 6-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-19 SERVICE INTERVAL ASSEMBLY 6-19 REMOVAL & ASSEMBLY 6-19 HEADLIGHT SWITCH 6-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-19 BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH 6-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-20 LIGHTING 6-20 HEADLIGHTS 6-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-20 AIMING 6-21 SIGNAL AND MARKER LIGHTS 6-22 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-22 FOG/DRIVING LIGHTS 6-24 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-24 INSTALLING AND WIRING AFTERMARKET LIGHTS 6-24 CIRCUIT PROTECTION 6-24 FUSES 6-24 REPLACEMENT 6-24 FLASHERS 6-25 REPLACEMENT 6-25 FUSIBLE LINKS 6-25 CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6-25 RESETTING AND/OR REPLACEMENT 6-25 WIRING DIAGRAMS 6-26

GHASSIO ELECTRICAL UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS BATTERY CABLES SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING CRUISE CONTROL ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND WASHERS INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES LIGHTING CIRCUIT PROTECTION WIRING DIAGRAMS

6-2 6-8 6-9 6-10 6-14 6-15 6-15 6-18 6-20 6-24 6-26

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CHASSIS ELECTRICAL PRS

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UNDERSTANDING AND TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS HOW DOES ELECTRICITY WORK: THE WATER ANALOGY

Basic Electrical Theory » See Figure 1 For any 12 volt, negative ground, electrical system to operate, the electricity must travel in a complete circuit. This simply means that current (power) from the positive (+) terminal of the battery must eventually return to the negative (-) terminal of the battery. Along the way, this current will travel through wires, fuses, switches and components. If, for any reason, the flow of current through the circuit is interrupted, the component fed by that circuit will cease to function properly. Perhaps the easiest way to visualize a circuit is to think of connecting a light bulb (with two wires attached to it) to the battery—one wire attached to the negative (-) terminal of the battery and the other wire to the positive (+) terminal. With the two wires touching the battery terminals, the circuit would be complete and the light bulb would illuminate. Electricity would follow a path from the battery to the bulb and back to the battery. It's easy to see that with longer wires on our light bulb, it could be mounted anywhere. Further, one wire could be fitted with a switch so that the light could be turned on

and off. The normal automotive circuit differs from this simple example in two ways. First, instead of having a return wire from the bulb to the battery, the current travels through the frame of the vehicle. Since the negative (-) battery cable is attached to the frame (made of electrically conductive metal), the frame of the vehicle can serve as a ground wire to complete the circuit. Secondly, most automotive circuits contain multiple components which receive power from a single circuit. This lessens the amount of wire needed to power components on the vehicle.

POWER SOURCE

PROTECTION DEVICE (FUSE)

LOAD (BULB)

CONTROL DEVICE (SWITCH OPEN)

RETURN CONDUCTOR GROUND

RETURN CONDUCTOR GROUND

TCCS2004

Fig. 1 This example illustrates a simple

circuit. When the switch is closed, power from the positive (+) battery terminal flows through the fuse and the switch, and then to the light bulb. The light illuminates and the circuit is completed through the ground wire back to the negative (-)

|

battery terminal. In reality, the two ground points shown in the illustration are attached to the metal frame of the vehicle, which completes the circuit backtothe , battery

Electricity is the flow of electrons—the subatomic particles that constitute the outer shell of an atom. Electrons spin in an orbit around the center core of an atom. The center core is comprised of protons (positive charge) and neutrons (neutral charge). Electrons have a negative charge and balance out the positive charge of the protons. When an outside force causes the number of electrons to unbalance the charge of the protons, the electrons will split off the atom and look for another atom to balance out. If this imbalance is kept up, electrons will continue to move and an electrical flow will exist. Many people have been taught electrical theory using an analogy with water. In a comparison with water flowing through a pipe, the electrons would be the water and the wire is the pipe. The flow of electricity can be measured much like the flow of water through a pipe. The unit of measurement used is amperes, frequently abbreviated as amps (a). You can compare amperage to the volume of water flowing through a pipe. When connected to a circuit, an ammeter will measure the actual amount of current flowing through the circuit. When relatively few electrons flow through a circuit, the amperage is low. When many electrons flow, the amperage is high. Water pressure is measured in units such as pounds per square inch (psi); the electrical pressure is measured in units called volts (v). When a voltmeter is connected to a circuit, it is measuring the electrical pressure. The actual flow of electricity depends not only on voltage and amperage, but also on the resistance of the circuit. The higher the resistance, the higher the force necessary to push the current through the circuit. The standard unit for measuring resistance is an ohm. Resistance in a circuit varies depending on the amount and type of components used in the circuit. The main factors which determine resistance are: e Material—some materials have more resistance than others. Those with high resistance are said to be insulators. Rubber materials (or rubberlike plastics) are some of the most common insulators used in vehicles as they have a very high resistance to electricity. Very low resistance materials are said to be conductors. Copper wire is among the best conductors. Silver is actually a superior conductor to copper and is used in some relay contacts, but its high cost prohibits its use as common wiring. Most automotive wiring :made of copper. e Size—the larger the wire size being used:the less resistance the wire will have. This is why components which use large amounts of electricity usually have large wires supplying current to them. e Length—for a given thickness of wire, the longer the wire, the greater the resistance. The

that can handle the current needs of the component. e Temperature—with many materials, the higher the temperature, the greater the resistance (positive temperature coefficient), Some materials exhibit the opposite trait of lower resistance with higher temperatures (negative temperature coefficient). These principles are used in many of the sensors on the engine.

OHM'S LAW There is a direct relationship between current, voltage and resistance. The relationship between current, voltage and resistance can be summed up by a statement known as Ohm's law. Voltage (E) is equal to amperage (1) times resistance ®: E=I x R

Other forms of the formula are R=E/I and I=E/R In each of these formulas, E is the voltage in

_ Volts, | is the current in amps and R is the resistance in ohms. The basic point to remember is that as the resistance of a circuit goes up, the amount of current that flows in the circuit will go down, if voltage remains the same. The amount of work that the electricity can perform is expressed as power. The unit of power is the watt (w). The relationship between power, voltage and current is expressed as: Power (Ww) is equal to amperage (I) times voltage (E): W=I x E This is only true for direct current (DC) circuits; The alternating current formula is a tad different, but since the electrical circuits in most vehicles are DC type, we need not get into AC circuit theory,

Electrical Components POWER SOURCE Power is supplied to the vehicle by two devices: The battery and the alternator. The battery supplies electrical power during starting or during periods when the current demand of the vehicle's electrical system exceeds the output capacity of the alternator. The alternator supplies electrical current when the engine is running. Just not does the alternator supply the current needs of the teeeebut it recharges the battery.

The Battery In most modern vehicles, the battery is a lead/acid electrochemical device consisting of six 2 volt subsections (cells) connected in series, so that the unit is capable of producing approximately 12 volts of electrical pressure. Each subsection consists of a series of positive and negative plates held a short distance apart iina solution ofsulfuricacid and water.

The two types of plates are of dissimilar ile

shorter the wire, the less the resistance. When

This sets up a chemical reaction, and it isthis reaction which produces current flowfrc

determining the proper wire for a circuit, both size and length must be considered to design a circuit

nected aan electrical load.

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from the battery is replaced by the alternator, restoring the battery to its original chemical state. The Alternator

On some vehicles there isn’t an alternator, but a generator. The difference is that an alternator produces alternating current (AC) which is then changed to direct current by a collection of diodes called the rectifier, that change the AC voltage to Direct Current (DC) voltage. A generator produces direct current and therefore does not require the use of a rectifier. Alternators tend to be much more efficient and that is why they are used. Alternators and generators are devices that consist of coils of wires wound together making big electromagnets. One group of coils spins within another set and the interaction of the magnetic fields causes a current to flow. This current is then drawn off the coils and fed into the vehicles electrical system.

GROUND

GROUND

TCCA6G02

Fig. 3 Relays are composed of a coil and 90966P03

Fig. 2 A fuse removal and installation tool is located in the fuse box

a self-repairing fuse. It will open the circuit in the same fashion as a fuse, but when the surge subsides, the circuit breaker can be reset and does not need replacement.

i WARNING Two types of grounds are used in automotive electric circuits. Direct ground components are grounded to the frame through their mounting points. All other components use a ground wire that is attached to a related component, the frame or the chassis of the vehicle. The electrical current runs through the chassis of the vehicle and returns to the battery through the negative or ground (-) cable; if you look, you'll see that the battery ground cable connects between the battery and the engine, transmission, the frame or chassis of the vehicle. Whether or not the negative battery cable attaches to the chassis, engine or transmission, a heavy gauge ground cable must also be used to connect the engine and transmission to the chassis because of the high electrical demands of the starter motor and the electrical current output produced by the alternator. Because of these high electrical current demands, a sufficient sized ground cable capable of handling these loads must be attached between the chassis and the engine/transmission assembly. e>it should be noted that a good percentage of electrical problems can be traced to bad grounds.

PROTECTIVE DEVICES » See Figure 2 It is possible for large surges of current to pass through the electrical system of your vehicle. If this surge of current were to reach the load in the circuit, the surge could burn it out or severely damage it. It can also overload the wiring, causing the harness to get hot and melt the insulation. To prevent this, fuses, circuit breakers and/or fusible links are connected into the supply wires of the electrical system. These items are nothing more than a builtin weak spot in the system. When an abnormal amount of current flows through the system, these protective devices work as follows to protect the circuit: ¢ Fuse—when an excessive electrical current _ passes through a fuse, the fuse “blows” (the con-

ductor melts) and opens the circuit, preventing the t.

a rmanee is basically

CONPONENT

a switch. These two components are linked together so that when one operates, the other operates at the same time. The large wires in the circuit are connected from the battery to one side of the relay switch (B+) and from the opposite side of

the relay switch to the load (component). Smaller wires are connected from the relay coil to the control switch for the circuit and from the opposite side of the relay coil to ground

Always replace fuses and circuit breakers with identically rated components. Under no circumstances should a component of a higher or a lower amperage rating be subStituted.

SWITCHES & RELAYS » See Figures 3 and 4 Switches are used in electrical circuits to control the passage of current. The most common use is to open and close circuits between the battery and the various electric devices in the system. Switches are rated according to the amount of amperage they can handle. If a sufficient amperage rated switch is not used in a circuit, the switch could overload and cause damage. Some electrical components which require a large amount of current to operate use a special switch called a relay. Since these circuits carry a large amount of current, the thickness of the wire in the circuit is also greater. If this large wire were connected from the load to the control switch, the switch would have to carry the high amperage load and the fairing or dash would be twice as large to accommodate the increased size of the wiring harness. To prevent these problems, a relay is used. Relays are composed of a coil and a set of contacts. When the coil has a current passed though it, a magnetic field is formed and this field causes the contacts to move together, completing the circuit. Most relays are normally open, preventing current from passing through the circuit, but they can take any electrical form depending on the job they are intended to do. Relays can be considered “remote control switches.” They allow a smaller current to operate devices that require higher amperages. When a small current operates the coil, a larger current is allowed to pass by the contacts. Some comthon circuits which may use relays are the horn, headlights, starter, electric fuel pump and other high draw circuits. e*When installing a switch or a relay always make sure their amperage rating is sufficient

for the circuit in which they are to be used. ¥

1

Fig. 4 The underhood electrical box houses both fuses and relays One rule of thumb is to use a relay or switch that is rated at least 20% greater than the circuit in which it is to be used.

LOAD Every electrical circuit must include a “load” (something to use the electricity coming from the source). Without this load, the battery would attempt to deliver its entire power supply from one pole to another. This is called a “short circuit.” All this electricity would take a short cut to ground and cause a great amount of damage to other components in the circuit by developing a tremendous amount of heat. This condition could develop sufficient heat to melt the insulation on all the surrounding wires and reduce a multiple wire cable to a lump of plastic and copper.

WIRING & HARNESSES > See Figure 5 The average vehicle contains meters and meters of wiring, with hundreds of individual connections. To protect the many wires from damage and to keep them from becoming a confusing tangle, they are organized into bundles, enclosed in plastic or taped —

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together and called wiring harnesses. Different harnesses serve different parts of the vehicle. Individual wires are color coded to help trace them through a harness where sections are hidden from

view. Automotive wiring or circuit conductors can be either single strand wire, multi-strand wire or printed circuitry. Single strand wire has a solid metal core and is usually used inside such components as alternators, motors, relays and other devices. Multi-strand wire has a core made of many small strands of wire twisted together into a single conductor. Most of the wiring in an automotive electrical system is made up of multi-strand wire, either as a single conductor or grouped together in a harness. All wiring is color coded on the insula-

tor, either as a solid color or as a colored wire with an identification stripe. A printed circuit is a thin film of copper or other conductor that is printed on an insulator backing. Occasionally, a printed circuit is sandwiched between two sheets of plastic for more protection and flexibility. A complete printed circuit, consisting of conductors, insulating material and connectors for lamps or other components is called a printed circuit board. Printed circuitry is used in place of individual wires or harnesses in places where space is limited, such as behind instrument panels. Since automotive electrical systems are very sensitive to changes in resistance, the selection of properly sized wires is critical when systems are repaired. A loose or corroded connection or a replacement wire that is too small for the circuit will add extra resistance and an additional voltage drop to the circuit. The wire gauge number is an expression of the cross-section area of the conductor. Vehicles from countries that use the metric system will typically describe the wire size as its cross-sectional area in square millimeters. In this method, the larger the wire, the greater the number. Another common system for expressing wire size is the American Wire Gauge (AWG) system. As gauge number increases,

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area decreases and the wire becomes smaller. An 18 gauge wire is smaller than a 4 gauge wire. A wire with a higher gauge number will carry less current than a wire with a lower gauge number. Gauge wire size refers to the size of the strands of the conductor, not the size of the complete wire with insulator. It is possible, therefore, to have two wires of the same gauge with different diameters because one may have thicker insulation than the other. It is essential to understand how a circuit works before trying to figure out why it doesn’t. An electrical schematic shows the electrical current paths when a circuit is operating properly. Schematics break the entire electrical system down into individual circuits. In a schematic, usually no attempt is made to represent wiring and components as they physically appear on the vehicle; switches and other components are shown as simply as possible. Face views of harness connectors show the cavity or terminal locations in all multi-pin connectors to help locate test points.

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into the harness. All splices should be soldered to insure proper contact. Use care when probing the connections or replacing terminals in them, as it is possible to create a short circuit between opposite terminals. If this happens to the wrong terminal pair, it is possible to damage certain components. Always use jumper wires between connectors for circuit checking and NEVER probe through weatherproof seals. e Hard Shell—unlike molded connectors, the terminal contacts in hard-shell connectors can be replaced. Replacement usually involves the use of a special terminal removal tool that depresses the locking tangs (barbs) on the connector terminal and allows the connector to be removed from the rear of

CONNECTORS > See Figures 6, 7 and 8 Three types of connectors are commonly used in automotive applications—weatherproof, molded and hard shell. ¢ Weatherproof—these connectors are most commonly used where the connector is exposed to the elements. Terminals are protected against moisture and dirt by sealing rings which provide a weather-tight seal. All repairs require the use of a special terminal and the tool required to service it. Unlike standard blade type terminals, these weatherproof terminals cannot be straightened once they are bent. Make certain that the connectors are properly seated and all of the sealing rings are in place when connecting leads. ¢ Molded—these connectors require complete replacement of the connector if found to be defective. This means splicing a new connector assembly

ree Fig. 6 Hard shell (left) and weatherproof ' (right) connectors have replaceable termi-

Wire Sizes The following chart is a guide to standard wire sizes Nearest

American

Wire Gauge

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Resistance (Q/1000

*Maximum Recommended Current

meters)

(Amps)

Fig. 7 Weatherproof connectors are most commonly used in the engine compartment or where the connector is exposed to the elements ¢

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g. 5 A wire’s size and length determines the electrical load it can handle. The chartassumes ;

| amaximum temperature of 150°F (65°C)

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Fig. 8 A typical electric _| Knowing theterminal ilal

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Fig. 10 Jumper wires with alligator clips are useful on some circuits and are readily available at most electronic supply stores

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Fig. 9 Jumper wires shown being used with an ohmmeter to test the resistance of a coolant sensor

the shell. The connector shell should be replaced if it shows any evidence of burning, melting, cracks, or breaks. Replace individual terminals that are burnt, corroded, distorted or loose.

the circuit or on the power (+) side. If an electrical component fails to operate, connect the jumper wire between the component and a good ground. If the component operates only with the jumper installed, the ground circuit is open. If the ground circuit is good, but the component does not operate, the circuit between the power feed and component may be open. By moving the jumper wire successively back from the component toward the power source, you can isolate the area of the circuit where the open is located. When the component stops functioning, or the power is cut off, the open is in the segment of wire between the jumper and the point previously tested. You can sometimes connect the jumper wire directly from the battery to the “hot” terminal of the component, but first make sure the component uses 12 volts in operation. Some electrical components, such as fuel injectors or sensors, are designed to operate on about 4 to 5 volts, and running 12 volts directly to these components will cause damage.

Test Equipment Pinpointing the exact cause of trouble in an electrical circuit is most times accomplished by the use of special test equipment. The following describes different types of commonly used test equipment and briefly explains how to use them in diagnosis. In addition to the information covered below, the tool manufacturer's instructions booklet (provided with the tester) should be read and clearly understood before attempting any test procedures.

JUMPER WIRES > See Figures 9 and 10

* CAUTION

TEST LIGHTS

Never use jumper wires made from a thinner gauge wire than the circuit being tested. If the jumper wire is of too small a gauge, it may overheat and possibly melt. Never use jumpers to bypass high resistance loads in a circuit. Bypassing resistances, in effect, creates a short circuit. This may, in turn, Cause damage and fire. Jumper wires should only be used to bypass lengths of wire or to simulate switches.

» See Figure 11

> CAUTION When testing an electronic component or a circuit that uses sensors or control units, a 12 volt LED test light should be used to avoid overloading the circuit and causing potential component damage. The test light is used to check circuits and components while electrical current is flowing through them. It is used for voltage and ground tests. To use a 12 volt test light, connect the ground clip to a good ground and probe wherever necessary with the pick. The test light will illuminate when voltage is detected. This does not necessarily mean that 12 volts (or any particular amount of voltage) is present: it only means that some voltage is present. It is advisable before using the test light to touch its ground clip and probe across the battery posts or terminals to make sure the light is operating properly.

Jumper wires are simple, yet extremely valuable, pieces of test equipment. They are basically test wires which are used to bypass sections of a circuit. Although jumper wires can be purchased, they are usually fabricated from lengths of standard automotive wire and whatever type of connector (alligator clip, spade connector or pin connector) that is required for the particular application being tested. In cramped, hard-to-reach areas, it is advisable to have insulated boots over the jumper wire terminals in order to prevent accidental grounding. It is also advisable to include a standard automotive fuse in any jumper wire. This is commonly referred to as a “fused jumper”. By inserting an in-line fuse holder between a set of test leads, a fused jumper wire can be used for bypassing open circuits. Use a 5 amp

2 WARNING Do not use a test light to probe electronic ignition, spark plug or coil wires. Never use a pick-type test light to probe wiring on

fuse to provide protection against voltage spikes. lumper wires are used primarily to locate open al circ CULLS neither the ground (-) side of

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Fig. 11 A 12 volt test light is used to detect the presence of voltage in a circuit

computer controlled systems unless specifically instructed to do so. Any wire insulation that is pierced by the test light probe should be taped and sealed with silicone after testing. Like the jumper wire, the 12 volt test light is used to isolate opens in circuits. But, whereas the jumper wire is used to bypass the open to operate the load, the 12 volt test light is used to locate the presence of voltage in a circuit. If the test light illu-

minates, there is power up to that point in the circuit; if the test light does not illuminate, there is an open circuit (no power). Move the test light in successive steps back toward the power source until the light in the handle illuminates. The open is between the probe and a point which was previously probed. The self-powered test light is similar in design to the 12 volt test light, but contains a 1.5 volt penlight battery in the handle. It is most often used in place of a multimeter to check for open or short circuits when power is isolated from the circuit (continuity test). The battery in a self-powered test light does not provide much current. A weak battery may not provide enough power to illuminate the test light even when a complete circuit is made (especially if there is high resistance in the circuit). Always make sure that the test battery is strong. To check the battery, briefly touch the ground clip to the probe; if the light glows brightly, the battery is strong enough for testing. e>A self-powered test light should not be used on any computer controlled system or component. The small amount of electricity transmitted by the test light is enough to damage many electronic automotive components.

MULTIMETERS > See Figure 12 Multimeters are an extremely useful tool for troubleshooting electrical problems. They can be purchased in either analog or digital form and have a price range to suit any budget. A multimeter is a voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter (along with other features) combined into one instrument. It is often used when testing solid state circuits because of its high input impedance (usually 10 megaohms or more). A brief description of the multimeter main test functions follows:

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CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

¢ Voltmeter—the voltmeter is used to measure voltage at any point in a circuit, or to measure the voltage drop across any part of a circuit. Voltmeters usually have various scales and a selector switch to allow the reading of different voltage ranges. The voltmeter has a positive and a negative lead. To avoid damage to the meter, always connect the negative lead to the negative (-) side of the circuit (to ground or nearest the ground side of the circuit) and connect the positive lead to the positive (+) side of the circuit (to the power source or the nearest power source). Note that the negative voltmeter lead will always be black and that the positive voltmeter will always be some color other than black (usually red). ¢ Ohmmeter—the ohmmeter is designed to read resistance (measured in ohms) in a circuit or component. Most ohmmeters will have a selector switch which permits the measurement of different ranges of resistance (usually the selector switch allows the multiplication of the meter reading by 10, 100, 1,000 and 10,000). Some ohmmeters are “auto-ranging” which means the meter itself will determine which scale to use. Since the meters are powered by an internal battery, the ohmmeter can be used like a self-powered test light. When the ohmmeter is connected, current from the ohmmeter flows through the circuit or component being tested. Since the ohmmeter's internal resistance and voltage are known values, the amount of current flow through the meter depends on the resistance of the circuit or component being tested. The ohmmeter can also be used to perform a continuity test for suspected open circuits. In using the meter for making continuity checks, do not be concerned with the actual resistance readings. Zero resistance, or any ohm reading, indicates continuity in the circuit. Infinite resistance indicates an opening in the circuit. A high resistance reading where there should be none indicates a problem in the circuit. Checks for short circuits are made in the same manner as checks for open circuits, except that the circuit must be isolated from both power and normal ground. Infinite resistance indicates no continuity, while zero resistance indicates a dead short.

+ WARNING Never use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of a component or wire while there is voltage applied to the circuit. e Ammeter—an ammeter measures the amount of current flowing through a circuit in units called amperes or amps. At normal operating voltage, most circuits have a characteristic amount of amperes, called “current draw” which can be measured using an ammeter. By referring to a specified current draw rating, then measuring the amperes and comparing the two values, one can determine what is happening within the circuit to aid in diagnosis. An open circuit, for example, will not allow any current to flow, so the ammeter reading will be zero. A damaged component or circuit will have an increased current draw, so the reading will be high. The ammeter is always connected in series with the circuit being tested. All of the current that normally flows through the circuit must also flow through the ammeter; if there is any other path for the current to follow, the ammeter reading will not be accurate.

The

ammeter itself has very little resistance to cur- _

rent flow and, therefore, will not affect the circuit,

modern automotive vehicle demands that you approach any problem in a logical, organized manner. There are certain troubleshooting techniques, however, which are standard: e Establish when the problem occurs. Does the

90961P33 Fig. 12 Digital multi-meters are easy to use and easy to read

but it will measure current draw only when the circuit is closed and electricity is flowing. Excessive current draw can blow fuses and drain the battery, while a reduced current draw can cause motors to run slowly, lights to dim and other components to not operate properly.

Troubleshooting Electrical Systems » See Figure 13 When diagnosing a specific problem, organized troubleshooting is a must. The complexity of a

Circuit Number

problem appear only under certain conditions? Were there any noises, odors or other unusual symptoms? Isolate the problem area. To do this, make some simple tests and observations, then eliminate the systems that are working properly. Check for obvious problems, such as broken wires and loose or dirty connections. Always check the obvious before assuming something complicated is the cause. e Test for problems systematically to determine the cause once the problem area is isolated. Are all the components functioning properly? Is there power going to electrical switches and motors. Performing careful, systematic checks will often turn up most causes on the first inspection, without wasting time checking components that have little or no relationship to the problem. e Test all repairs after the work is done to make sure that the problem is fixed. Some causes can be traced to more than one component, so a careful verification of repair work is important in order to pick up additional malfunctions that may cause a problem to reappear or a different problem to arise. A blown fuse, for example, is a simple problem that may require more than another fuse to repair. If you don't look for a problem that caused a fuse to blow, a shorted wire (for example) may go undetected.

Circuit Description

Most Common

Wire Color

15

Powered when ignition switch is in “On* or “Start* positions Load-reduction circuit «

Powered by load-reduction relay when ignition switch in in "On" position (Not powered in "Start" position) Battery positive (+) Voltage Powered whenever battery is connected

Ground (GND) or battery negative (—-) Powered only when ignition switch is in "Start" position

From generator (GEN) Charging Voltage to battery Generator (GEN) waming light and field energizing circuit

Ground (GND) (-) side of switching relay Power-input (+) side of switching relay Relay change-over contact

Black (BK)

Black/Yellow (BK/Y)

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Experience has shown that most problems tend to be the result of a fairly simple and obvious cause, such as loose or corroded connectors, bad grounds or damaged wire insulation which causes a short. This makes careful visual inspection of components during testing essential to quick and accurate troubleshooting.

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fuse terminals to diagnose the source of the short circuit. Using a suitable automotive test light proceed as follows:

7. Carefully remove the blown fuse.

Make sure the test light leads and jumper wires, if used, are properly insulated and

DO NOT contact any other electrical terminals, wiring or chassis grounds. Failure to properly attach or insulate the test light and/or jumper wires could cause physical injury or component damage.

OPEN CIRCUITS > See Figure 14 This test already assumes the existence of an open in the circuit and it is used to help locate the open portion. 1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground. 2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to the ground side of the circuit and probe sections of the circuit sequentially. 3. Ifthe light is out or there is infinite resistance, the open is between the probe and the circuit ground. 4. If the light is on or the meter shows continuity, the open is between the probe and the end of the circuit toward the power source.

SHORT CIRCUITS e>Never use a self-powered test light to perform checks for opens or shorts when power is applied to the circuit under test. The test light can be damaged by outside power.

1. Isolate the circuit from power and ground. 2. Connect the self-powered test light or ohmmeter ground clip to a good ground and probe any easy-to-reach point in the circuit. 3. Ifthe light comes on or there is continuity, there is a short somewhere in the circuit. 4. To isolate the short, probe a test point at either end of the isolated circuit (the light should be on or the meter should indicate continuity). 5. Leave the test light probe engaged and sequentially open connectors or switches, remove parts, etc. until the light goes out or continuity is broken. 6. When the light goes out, the short is between the last two circuit components which were opened. , If a short circuit has caused a blown fuse, a suitable automotive test light can be used to help locate the cause. A test light is connected in series to the

TCCA6P10

Fig. 14 The infinite reading on this multimeter indicates that the circuit is open

8. Attach one lead of the automotive test light to one of the fuse terminals, and the second lead of the test light to the other fuse terminal. e>it may be necessary to use a suitable jumper wire to properly connect the test light leads to the fuse terminals.

9. If the circuit is a switched circuit, turn on the ignition switch and/or the switch for the component that is causing the fuse to blow. When the appropriate switch is turned on, the test light should begin working. 10. Once the test light is operating, begin to inspect the wiring and components of the circuit. Systematically disconnect and reconnect the electrical connectors in the circuit being tested. When the test light goes out, the shorted portion of the circuit has been located. The short could be either a failed component or a shorted portion of the electrical circuit for the component. 11. Repair the short, or replace the shorted component and reinstall the correct amperage fuse and retest.

VOLTAGE This test determines voltage available from the battery and should be the first step in any electrical troubleshooting procedure after visual inspection. Many electrical problems, especially on computer controlled systems, can be caused by a low state of charge in the battery. Excessive corrosion at the battery cable terminals can cause poor contact that will prevent proper charging and full battery current flow. 1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20V position. 2. Connect the multimeter negative lead to the

TCCA6PO7

Fig. 15 This voltage drop test revealed high resistance (low voltage) in the circuit

6-7

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battery's negative (-) post or terminal and the positive lead to the battery's positive (+) post or terminal.

3. Turn the ignition switch ON to provide a load. 4. Awell charged battery should register over 12 volts. If the meter reads below 11.5 volts, the battery power may be insufficient to operate the electrical system properly.

VOLTAGE DROP > See Figure 15 When current flows through a load, the voltage beyond the load drops. This voltage drop is due to the resistance created by the load and also by small resistances created by corrosion at the connectors and damaged insulation on the wires. The maximum allowable voltage drop under load is critical, especially if there is more than one load in the circuit, since all voltage drops are cumulative.

1. Set the voltmeter selector switch to the 20 volt position. 2. Connect the multimeter negative lead to a good ground. 3. Operate the circuit and check the voltage prior to the first component (load). 4. There should be little or no voltage drop in the circuit prior to the first component. If a voltage drop exists, the wire or connectors in the circuit are suspect. 5. While operating the first component in the circuit, probe the ground side of the component with the positive meter lead and observe the voltage readings. A small voltage drop should be noticed. This voltage drop is caused by the resistance of the component. 6. Repeat the test for each component (load) down the circuit. 7. \fa large voltage drop is noticed, the preceding component, wire or connector is suspect.

RESISTANCE > See Figures 16, 17 and 18

Never use an ohmmeter with power applied to the circuit. The ohmmeter is designed to operate on its own power supply. The nor~ mal 12 volt electrical system voltage could damage the meter!

Fig. 16 Checking the resistance of a coolant temperature sensor with an ohmmeter. The reading is 13.33 kilo-ohms (13,330 ohms)

6-8

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL Wire and terminals are available to fit almost any need. Even the specialized weatherproof, molded and hard shell connectors are now available from aftermarket suppliers. Be sure the ends of all the wires are fitted with the proper terminal hardware and connectors. Wrapping a wire around a stud is never a permanent solution and will only cause trouble later. Replace wires one at a time to avoid confusion. Always route wires exactly the same as the factory. 90964P61

Fig. 17 Two multimeters being used side by side to test a sensor’s resistance at a specific temperature

1. Isolate the circuit from the vehicle's power source. 2. Ensure that the ignition key is OFF when disconnecting any components or the battery. 3. Where necessary, also isolate at least one

side of the circuit to be checked, in order to avoid reading parallel resistances. Parallel circuit resistances will always give a lower reading than the actual resistance of either of the branches. 4. Connect the meter leads to both sides of the

rence

Fig. 18 Using jumper leads allows for Steady, consistent readings, plus the multi-meter can be placed in an area that avoids damaging it

circuit (wire or component) and read the actual measured ohms on the meter scale. Make sure the selector switch is set to the proper ohm scale for the circuit being tested, to avoid misreading the ohmmeter test value.

Wire and Connector Repair

e>lf connector repair is necessary, only attempt it if you have the proper tools. Weatherproof and hard shell connectors require special tools to release the pins inside the connector. Attempting to repair these connectors with conventional hand tools will damage them.

If reliability is a concern, solder wires with rosin core solder whenever possible and insulate them using shrink wrap, or a good quality electrical tape. Exercise care when soldering wires, as proper heat sinks may be needed to prevent component damage from excessive heat. Do not solder a wire or component if there is a potential for heat related damage to occur.

Almost anyone can replace damaged wires, as long as the proper tools and parts are available.

BATTERY CABLES

.

Disconnecting the Battery Cables » See Figures 19, 20, 21 and 22 When working on any electrical component on the vehicle, it is always a good idea to disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. This will prevent potential damage to many sensitive electrical components such as the Powertrain Control Module

(PCM), radio, alternator, etc. 90963P06

Never disconnect a battery cable engine is running. Disconnecting cable with the engine running is Cause expensive and permanent the alternator, voltage regulator, modules, such as the PCM.

when the a battery likely to damage to and control

90961P16

Fig. 19 The battery is neatly tucked into the right rear trunk well underneath a plastic tray on E36 3 Series vehicles

Fig. 21 The top and the front cover can be removed from the E36 positive jump post box to check the positive battery cable connection. The negative battery cable must be disconnected before attempting

e>Any time you disconnect or remove the battery cables, it is recommended that you disconnect the negative (-) battery cable first. This will prevent your accidentally grounding the positive (+) terminal to the body of the vehicle when disconnecting it, thereby preventing damage to the above mentioned components.

Before you disconnect the cable(s), first turn the ignition to the OFF position. This will prevent a draw on the battery which could cause arcing (electricity trying to ground itself to the body of a vehicle, just like a spark plug jumping the gap) and, of course, damaging some components such as the alternator diodes. When reconnecting or installing a battery, always attach the negative cable last. This is done as a safety measure, should a tool or component slip

90961P25

Fig. 20 The positive battery cable is rather lengthy on all E36 models. The cable is connected to the battery in the trunk and is routed to the jump post on the right front

of the engine compartment

Fig. 22 The jump post block on E36 models serves as a junction for five cables.

The large cable from the battery’s positive terminal is the one on the lower left

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL while installing the positive battery cable. If the tool

touches the battery positive terminal and a chassis ground simultaneously, as long as the negative battery cable is not connected, no damage will occur. Make sure when installing a battery that the positive

battery cable is fully installed and tightened before installing the negative battery cable. When the battery cable(s) are reconnected (negative cable last), be sure to check that your lights, windshield wipers and other electrically

6-9

operated safety components are all working correctly. If your vehicle contains an Electronically Tuned Radio (ETR), don't forget to reset your radio security code, the radio station presets, and reset the clock.

SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) General Information > See Figures 23, 24 and 25 The Air Bag is referred to as a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) component because it is designed to work with, or as a supplement to, the seat belts supplied with the vehicle.

> CAUTION Air bags should never be assumed to take the place of seat belts. The air bag is designed to work in conjunction with the seat belts. Most states have instituted laws requiring the use of seat belts. Consult your local and state laws regarding seat belt usage.

If the air bags have deployed, the air bags, SRS control unit, and if installed, the seat belt tensioner assemblies must be replaced.

A basic ponents: e SRS ¢ SRS ¢ SRS

SRS is comprised of the following com-

Airbag Sensors Control Unit e Steering wheel contact ring ¢ SRS Indicator Light (SRS Warning Light) The SRS Sensors are used by the SRS Control Unit to detect a moderate to severe frontal collision. If such is the case, the SRS Sensors send a signal to the SRS Control Unit, which in turn activates the SRS Airbag. The SRS Control Unit also has it's own emergency backup power in case the vehicle's electrical system is disconnected in a crash. The SRS Control Unit also monitors the integrity of the SRS System once the ignition key is switched ON. Under normal operating conditions, when the ignition key is initially turned to the ON position, the SRS Indicator Light should come on for 6 seconds, and then go out. This serves as a bulb check for the SRS Indicator Light. If the SRS Control Unit detects a problem in the SRS system, the SRS Indicator Light will remain ON until the problem is resolved and the SRS Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) erased.

¢ CAUTION If the SRS Indicator Light fails to light, or is on continuously, the cause should be determined immediately. The system may have a problem that could compromise the safe operation and/or deployment of the SRS system.

SERVICE PRECAUTIONS » See Figures 26, 27 and 28

The Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) must be disabled before performing service on or around system components, steering column, instrument panel components, wiring and sensors. Failure to follow safety and disabling procedures could result in accidental air bag deployment, possible personal injury and unnecessary system repairs. Please take note of the following precautions whenever working on or near SRS air bag system

components: e When carrying a live air bag module, point the bag and trim cushion away from your body. When placing a live air bag on a bench or other surface, always face the bag and trim cushion up, away from the surface. Following these precautions will reduce the chance of injury if the air bag is accidentally deployed.

e Use only a digital multimeter when checking any part of the air bag system. The multimeter’s output must be 0.01Amps (10mA) or less when it is switched to its smallest ohmmeter range value. ¢ Do not bump, strike, or drop any SRS component. Store SRS components away from any source of electricity, including static electricity, moisture, oil, grease, and extreme heat and humidity.

84276001

Fig. 23 The front air bags are designed to deploy in a severe frontal impact that

occurs within 30° of the vehicle’s center-

ioe 84276002

Fig. 24 The left side impact sensor shown

- mounted in front of the left front shock

3r—E36

model shown

EE

84276003

Fig. 25 The right side impact sensor shown mounted in front of the right front shock tower near the washer reservoir— E36 model shown

EAC Neg ee A

ee

¢ Do not cut, damage, or attempt to alter the SRS wiring harness or its yellow insulation. ¢ Do not install SRS components that have been recovered from wrecked or dismantled vehicles. e Always disconnect both battery cables when working around SRS components or wiring. e Always disable the air bag when working under the dashboard. e Always check the alignment of the air bag cable reel during steering-related service procedures. e Take extra care when working in the area of the dashboard. Avoid direct exposure of the SRS unit or wiring to heat guns, welding, or spraying equipment. ¢ Never carry the inflator module by the wires or connector on the underside of the module. e When carrying a live inflator module, hold securely with both hands, and ensure that the bag and trim cover are pointed away. ¢ Place the inflator module on a bench or other surface with the bag and trim cover facing up.

¢ With the inflator module on the bench, never place anything on or close to the module which may be propelled in the event of an accidental deployment.

6-10

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL Connector halves disconnected:

93138P10

90968P56

Fig. 26 If removed, always place the inflator module facing up to avoid injury should accidental deployment occur

¢ Disconnect the driver’s/front passenger's air bag and if equipped, the seat belt tensioner connections before working below the dashboard close to the SRS control unit. e |fthe vehicle is involved in a frontal impact or after a collision without airbag deployment, inspect the SRS unit for physical damage. If the SRS control unit is dented, cracked, or deformed, replace it. e If removed or replaced, make sure the SRS control unit is installed securely. e Never disassemble the SRS control unit. e When installing or replacing the SRS control unit, be careful not to bump or strike the area around the SRS control unit. Avoid using impact wrenches, hammers, etc. in the area surrounding the SRS control unit e Never reach through the steering wheel to start an air bag equipped vehicle. e Ifthe air bag has deployed, the air bags, control unit, and if equipped, the seat belt tensioners must be replaced. e Individual components of the air bag system must always be replaced rather than repaired ¢ Do not treat air bag system components with grease or cleaning agents ¢ Avoid physical contact with a deployed air

Fig. 28 During removal, keep your body hands and fingers away from the center portion of the air bag should it accidentally deploy Connector halves connected:

DISARMING THE SYSTEM

7924MG34

Fig. 27 Cut away view of a spring-loaded SRS electrical connector. Never modify any SRS component

bag. Wear protective equipment such as necessary ¢ Do not expose air bag components to temperatures above 167°F (75°C) e Replace any air bag component that has been dropped a distance of 1 % feet (0.5 m) or more e Areplaced component of the air bag system must always be properly disposed of

1. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position. 2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and cover the battery terminal to prevent accidental contact. 3. Once the battery has been disconnected, if the electrical connector for the air bag gas generator is not disconnected, you must wait for a period of: e 30 minutes for vehicles manufactured before 9/93 e 5 seconds for vehicles manufactured after 9/93

ARMING THE SYSTEM 1. Place the ignition switch in the OFF posi-tion. 2. Attach the sensors, the steering column connector and the seat belt tensioner connectors. 3. Connect the negative battery terminal. 4. Place the ignition switch in the ON position. Check that the SRS air bag light illuminates for 6 seconds and extinguishes. If it illuminates in any other pattern, check the components and their connections for proper operation and recheck the operation of the warning light. .

HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING >All the procedures needing the air conditioner refrigerant lines to be disconnected require that the system be discharged and the refrigerant recovered by a qualified and properly equipped shop. Do not discharge the refrigerant into the atmosphere.

*¢ CAUTION When working on components located near or under the dash be aware of the location of the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) components and wiring and take care not to damage them.

Fresh Air Intake Duct >The fresh air intake duct for the climate control is located at the rear of the engine compartment on the upper center of the firewall. It must be removed to access the windshield wiper motor and/or to create additional work space when performing underhood repairs and/or parts replacement on E36 models.

4. Move the wiring harness as necessary to access and remove the four 7mm self tapping mounting fasteners. 5. Pull and tilt the duct forward to release it

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E36 Models

» See Figures 29 thru 34

oe WARNING The SRS system should always be disarmed before performing dash related repairs, otherwise physical injury or component dam-

“age could occur.

1. Remove the seal at the top edge of the duct surrounding the air intake grille. 2. Remove the air intake grille by releasing the lock tabs at the front of the grille and tilting the front of the grille upward. 3. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the —

electrical cable housing. fs

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Fig. 29 To remove the fresh air in ake

duct, remove the seal surround edge ofthe duct,then... eee f

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.

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4

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

90964P20

Fig. 30. . . release the locking tabs at the front of the grille and lift the front portion upward to remove

90964P24

90964P23

90964P21

Fig. 31 Unfasten the two Phillips screws securing the electrical cable housing and

6-11

Fig. 32. . . move the wiring harness to access and remove the mounting fasteners

84276004

90964P25

Fig. 34. . . lift the duct away from the Fig. 33 Pull and tilt the duct forward LCT pera

from the firewall and the sealing groove. It may require some effort to release. 6. Once loosened, lift the duct upward out of its sealing groove and away from the firewall. 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure, making sure to seat the duct properly in its sealing groove.

Heater Blower Motor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models The blower is accessible by removing the cover at the top of the firewall in the engine compartment.

firewall—E36 M44 engine compartment shown

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. To remove the motor cover, pull off the rubber weatherstrip, cut off wire ties holding the wire that runs diagonally across the cover, unscrew and remove the bolts, and pull the cover aside, 2. Release the retaining straps, move them to the side, and then remove the blower cover. 3. Pull off both electrical connectors. Disengage the clamp that fastens the assembly in place by pulling the bottom. Lift out the motor/fan assembly, being careful not to damage the flap underneath. To install: 4. The fan and motor assembly is balanced at the factory. Do not disturb the orientation of the fan and motor during installation. Place the fan and motor into the heater and install the clamp.

Fig. 35 Remove the electrical duct screws from inside the air intake cowl

5. Connect the wires and install the fan cover. Attach the straps. 6. Install the outside cover and install the 4 bolts. Install new wire ties on the diagonal wire and replace the weather-stripping. Connect the negative battery cable.

E36 Models

» See Figures 35, 36, 37 and 38 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Remove the air intake cow! weather-stripping. Remove the grille by gently prying out. 2. Remove the 2 screws inside the air intake cowl holding the electrical duct. 3. Remove the 2 screws holding the right side of the air intake cowl and remove the screw holding

84276007

Fig. 36 Release the clips to remove the

blower cover

Fig. 37 Release the clips from the left flap upper section to gain access to the blower

Fig. 38 Match the color dots and indents with the shaft when installing the fans on the motor shaft

6-12

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

a 84276010 84276008

Fig. 39 Remove the nut to disconnect the water flange—E36 3 Series

Fig. 40 Remove the nut and the O-rings from the flange—E36 3 Series

Fig. 41 Remove the trim screws before disconnecting the lower trim—E36 3 Series

84276012

84276011

Fig. 42 Remove the bolt to disconnect the flange at the heater

Series

-core—E36 3 Series

the left side. Pull the cowl out from above. It may be very hard to remove, but it will come out. 4. On M50 equipped vehicles, remove the injector cover plate and the valve cover cladding from the engine. 5. On M50 equipped vehicles, remove the cover from the control unit housing on the right side of the firewall and disconnect the control units plugs. Remove the screws from the injector plug plate and place the plate off to the side. Disconnect the control cable inside the housing. 6. Unclip the heater blower cover. Disconnect the wiring from the motor. 7. Undo the left flap upper section clips and remove. Disconnect the blower from the brace and remove. To install: 8. Ifthe blower fans are removed, install them so the drive pins fit into the correct indents and the color dots match. 9. Install the fan into the brace and connect the wires. Clip the blower cover into place. 10. On M50 equipped vehicles, connect the control cable, install the injector plug plate, connect the control unit plugs and install the contro! unit housing cover. Install the valve cover cladding and the injector cover. 11. Install the air intake cowl and screws. Replace the electrical duct screws and the intake grill. Install the weather-stripping.

Fig. 43 Remove the screw to withdraw the heater core—E36 3

E36 Models

» See Figures 39, 40, 41, 42 and 43

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the center console and the driver's side instrument panel trim next to the steering column. Drain the coolant. 2. Loosen the coolant pipe clamp near the heater connection. 3. Remove the duct from the heater to the rear heating duct. 4. Place some rags or a small container under the heater connection to catch any spilled coolant. Remove the bolts from the heater connection and separate the joint. 5, Remove the heater core bolts and remove from the heater housing. To install: 6. Replace the heater core into the heater housing and replace the bolts. Replace the O-rings on the heater pipe joint. Connect the pipe to the heater core and install the bolts. 7. Install the rear heating duct connection and the pipe holding clamp. Install-the instrument panel trim and the center console. Fill the cooling system and bleed. Connect the negative battery terminal.

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Remove the air intake cow! weather-stripping. Remove the grille by gently prying out. 2. Remove the 2 screws inside the air intake cowl holding the electrical duct. 3. Remove the 2 screws holding the right side of the air intake cowl and remove the screw holding the left side. Pull the cowl out from above. It may be very hard to remove, but itwill come out. . 4, Remove the nut from the heater connection and pull off the connection. Blow air into the intake hose to force the coolant out of the heater core. This will prevent coolant from dripping onto the carpeting. 5. Remove the nut from the connection in the engine compartment. Remove the screws from the left, lower instrument trim panel and pry off. 6. Remove the screw from the pipe connection at the heater core. Remove the heater core mounting nut and remove the heater core. To install: 5 7. Replace the heater core and the mounting screw. Replace the O-rings on the pipe connection and install the mounting bolts. 8. Install the trim panel and screws. Install the nut on the engine compartment side ofthepipe

connection.

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Je ao

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL a

EL

9. Replace the O-rings on the connection and install the flange and nut. 10. Install the air intake cowl and screws. Replace the electrical duct screws and the intake grill. Install the weather-stripping.

Heater Water Control Valve REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

IS

BETTE TI

TLE IIE LED TERE ES LS TS

EES

NT

ER

elf your vehicle’s A/C system uses R-12 refrigerant and is in need of recharging, the A/C system can be converted over to R-134a refrigerant (less environmentally harmful and expensive). Refer to Section 1 for additional information on R-12 to R-134a conversions, and for additional considerations dealing with your vehicle’s A/C system.

Control Cables REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the center console and the driver's side instrument panel trim next to the steering column. Drain the coolant. 2. Disconnect the coolant hoses from the inlet on the firewall. Disconnect the wire from the control

valve. 3. Loosen the coolant pipe clamp. Remove the 2 bolts from the pipe connection at the control valve and the 3 bolts from the heater connection. To install: 4. With power applied to the control valve, it will close. With power removed, it will be open. Replace the O-rings at the connections. 5. Replace the bolts in the connections and attach the pipe clamp. Connect the wire to the con-

trol valve. 6. Connect the coolant hose at the firewall. Install the center console and the instrument panel trim. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Connect the negative battery terminal. E36 Models 1. Disconnect the electrical plug from the heater control valve located to the left of the hose connections on the firewall. 2. Drain the coolant and remove the hose connections from the valve. Note where the hoses are connected. 3. Pull the valve assembly from the bottom to disconnect itfrom the rubber mount. Lift the valve from the upper mount. To install: 4. Place the upper portion of the valve into the mount and press the bottom part into the mount. 5. Connect the coolant hoses in the original locations sand connect the electrical plug. Fill and

bleed the coolant system.

Air Conditioning Components

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Repair or service of air conditioning components is not covered by this manual, because of the risk of personal injury or death, and because of the legal ramifications of servicing these components without the proper EPA certification and experience. Cost, personal injury or death, environmental damage, and legal considerations (such as the fact that it is a i Seal crime to vent refrigerant into the atmo-

dictate that the A/C components on your

id beserviced only by a Motor Vehicle } (MVAC) trained, and EPAcertified es

Meyt-:

E30 Models

FOOTWELL FLAP 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the left side lower instrument panel trim and the center console tray. Remove the radio.

2. Remove the switches or covers from the openings above the radio opening. Disconnect the switches from the wiring harness. 3. Remove the screws holding the control panel at the top. The screws are accessible at the openings above the radio opening. Pull the contro! panel forward. 4. Disconnect the cable clamp and remove the cable end from the lever. Do this at each end of the cable. To install: 5. Connect the cable at the flap lever and fit the clamp in place. The cable housing must be flush with the clamp. 6. Connect the control lever cable and move the lever fully to the right. Turn the cable sleeve until the cable can be placed in the holder and the clamp secured. 7. Affix the control panel and replace the switches and covers. Install the radio, console tray and the trim panel. Connect the negative battery terminal.

DEFOGGER FLAP & FRESH AIR FLAP 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the left side lower instrument panel trim and the center console tray. Lower the glove compartment door and disconnect the straps. Remove the radio. 2. Remove the switches or covers from the openings above the radio opening. Disconnect the switches from the wiring harness. 3. Remove the screws holding the contro! panel at the top. The screws are accessible at the openings above the radio opening. Pull the control panel forward. 4. Disconnect the cable clamp and remove the cable end from the lever. Do this at each end of the cable. To install: 5. Connect the cable at the flap lever and fit the clamp in place. The cable housing must be hae with the clamp. 6. Connect the control lever cable and move the er fully to the right. Turn the cable sleeve until fecable can be placed in the holder and the clamp

secured. 7. Affix the control panel and replace the switches and covers. Install the radio, console tray, toa

i

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OVA

RO

OE

6-13 ER

glove compartment door straps and the trim panel.

Connect the negative battery terminal.

MIXING FLAP 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the left side lower instrument panel trim and the center.console tray. Lower the glove compartment door and disconnect the straps. Remove the radio. 2. Remove the switches or covers from the openings above the radio opening. Disconnect the switches from the wiring harness. 3. Remove the screws holding the control panel at the top. The screws are accessible at the openings above the radio opening. Pull the control panel forward. 4. Disconnect the cable clamp and remove the cable end from the lever. Do this at each end of the cable.

To install: 5. Connect the cable at the flap lever and fit the clamp in place. 6. Connect the temperature selector wheel cable end and move the wheel to the WARM position. Turn the cable knurl nut so the flap moves to the WARM position. Adjust the nut so the cable can be placed in the holder and the clamp secured. 7. Affix the control panel and replace the switches and covers. Install the radio, console tray, glove compartment door straps and the trim panel. Connect the negative battery terminal. E36 Models

FRESH AIR FLAP 1. Insert a feeler gauge blade between the bottom of the trip computer display and the frame at the right side. Move the blade towards the right to release the display. Disconnect the wiring from the display and remove. 2. Remove the ashtray or lower console bin, as equipped, by pulling out. 3. Remove the knobs from the heater control panel. Remove the panel mounting screws in the depressions for the knobs and pull the panel out. 4. Push the controls back and guide downwards to be able to disconnect the wiring, shaft and — cable. 5. Place the vents above the glove compartment straight forward and remove from the dashboard. 6. Remove the 6 screws holding the glove compartment and remove the unit. 7. Disconnect the cable from the retainer and squeeze the tabs together to remove the cable from the holder. To install:

8. Connect the wiring, cable and shaft to the contro! panel. Install the panel and knobs. Install the ashtray or bin and the trip computer display. 9. Install the cable into the holder and the retainer. 10. Turn the blower control to 4 and press the _ control lever towards the holder. This will aeoe ae cable. " 11. Install the feb onnertinent and vents.} y ‘

2y, he

Oa s =

e

—

i.

6-14

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Control Panel REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the left side lower instrument panel trim and the center console tray. Remove the radio. 2. Remove the switches or covers from the Openings above the radio opening. Disconnect the switches from the wiring harness. 3. Remove the screws holding the control panel at the top. The screws are accessible at the openings above the radio opening. Pull the control panel forward. 4. Disconnect the cable clamps and remove the cable ends from the levers. To install: 5. Connect the cables. Install the panel into the dashboard and replace the screws. 6. Install the switches and the radio. Install the center console tray and the trim panel. Connect the negative battery terminal.

2. Remove the ashtray or lower console bin, as equipped, by pulling out. 3. Remove the knobs from the heater control panel. Remove the panel mounting screws in the depressions for the knobs and pull the panel out. 4. Push the controls back and guide downwards to be able to disconnect the wiring, shaft and cable. To install: 5. Connect the shaft, wiring and cable to the control panel. 6. Guide the panel into place and install the mounting screws. Replace the knobs. 7. Install the ashtray or bin by pressing into place. Connect the wiring to the trip computer display and press into place.

BMW uses a micro-filter to clean the air being passed to the passenger compartment. The unit cleans pollen, dust and other particles from the air to allow better driving comfort. A reduced flow of air from the vents is an indication of a clogged microfilter.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

E36 Models 1. Insert a feeler gauge blade between the bottom of the trip computer display and the frame at the right side. Move the blade towards the right to release the display. Disconnect the wiring from the display and remove.

E30 Models 1. Open the glove compartment door and remove the inside trim at the heater side. 2. Remove the glove compartment door straps and the hinge mounting nuts. Remove the door.

3. Remove the 4 screws holding the cover on the side of the heater unit. Remove the micro-filter from under this cover. 4. Install the filter, cover and glove compartment door. E36 Models

Canadian versions not equipped with air conditioning use micro-filters attached to the blower

housing. These filters are removed by accessing the blower housing through the engine compartment. The other vehicles have the micro-filter in the heater and air conditioning unit within the vehicle. This procedure covers the internal micro-filter removal and installation. 1. Place the vents above the glove compartment

straight forward and remove from the dashboard. 2. Remove the 6 screws holding the glove compartment and remove the unit complete with the lower trim panel. 3. Remove the foot well duct for the heater. Remove the screws holding the control unit bracket and tilt down. 4. Turn the lock and remove the cover. Pull the filter out of the housing. To install: 5. Install the new filter and replace the cover. Turn the cover lock. 6. Install the control unit holder and the heater duct. 7. Install the glove compartment, trim and the ~ vents.

CRUISE CONTROL » See Figures 44 and 45 The cruise control is electronically activated and controlled using the vehicle's speed sensor as input when the system is activated. The system is activated and controlled by either a right side steering column mounted switch, or by a series of switches on the right side of the steering wheel pad. The steering wheel mounted system has an activation button located at the bottom of the row of the switches which is used to activate and deactivate the system. On these models, when the system is activated, an indicator light in the contro! panel is illuminated. In addition to the activated/deactivated selections, the cruise control system features switches for acceleration, deceleration and resume. The system is also deactivated if: e The brake pedal is pressed e lf equipped, the clutch pedal is pressed ¢ On automatic transmissions, if shifted from Drive to Neutral e lf the vehicle speed is less than the minimum activation speed The operating parameters of the systems are as follows: Cruise controls with steering column mounted switches: ¢ Activation speed: 25 mph (40 km/h) or greater ¢ Activate and set speed: Press stalk forward ¢ Accelerate: Press the stalk forward and

release increases speed by 0.6 mph (1 km/h)

___

© Accelerate: Press stalk forward and hold

—

Pi) odo,

7

;

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rie i

pressed, accelerates until released and sets to current speed ¢ Decelerate: Pull the stalk back and release decreases speed by 0.6 mph (1 km/h) e Decelerate: Pull the stalk back and hold, decelerates until released and sets to current speed e Resume: Press stalk end inward toward steering column, resumes speed to last programmed speed e Off: Press stalk up or down Cruise controls with steering whee! mounted switches: e Activation speed: 20 mph (30 km/h) or greater e Activate: Press 1/0 button (lowest button)

e Set speed: Press the + button and release sets current speed e Accelerate: Press the + button and release increases speed by 0.6 mph (1 km/h) e Accelerate: Press the + button and hold pressed, accelerates until released and sets to current speed e Decelerate: Press the - button and release decreases speed by 0.6 mph (1 km/h)

e Decelerate: Press the - button and hold, decelerates until released and sets to current speed e Resume: Press Speedo icon button (top button), resumes speed to last programmed speed Off: Press 1/0 button (lowest button)

Cruise control cable 90962P05

Fig. 44 The cruise control throttle actuator is located on the left front fender well just

forward of the shock tower on E36 models

Fig. 45 The throttle is operatedcee rate cables forthe cruise contr itrol and the

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

6-15

ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Make note of the radio code supplied on a tag with the owners information. As an anti-theft feature, the code must be entered into the radio once power has been removed. 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. On radios equipped with two vertical holes on either side of their face plate, insert a set of radio removal hooks into the holes at the sides of the radio chassis. Seat the hooks and carefully pull the radio outward.

3. If not equipped with holes at the sides of the chassis, pull the knob off and insert the hooks at the holes at the cassette opening and pull out. 4. On radios equipped with screws at the edges of the chassis mounted at an angle, remove the screws and pull the chassis out. 5. On radios equipped with small access doors on the lower left and lower right corners: a. Carefully pry the pivoting doors outward to open D. Insert the five-sided hex radio removal tool and turn the locking fasteners counter clockwise to release their tension, then carefully pull the radio outward to expose the antenna and electrical connections. 6. Disconnect the electrical connectors and antenna lead. To install: 7. Connect the electrical connectors and antenna lead, then place the radio into the opening. 8. Carefully press the radio flush with the console. 9. On radios with four vertical holes, it should snap into place.

10. On radios with angled screws. 11. On radios with the fasteners clockwise 12. Enter the radio

the angled screws, install the five sided hex fasteners, turn until the radio is secured. code to activate the radio.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Rear Hat Shelf Speakers 1. Remove the grilles by removing the screws, if equipped, or by carefully pulling up to release. 2. On two or four door sedan models, remove the speaker mounting screws and the speakers. Disconnect the wires. 3. Onconvertible models, pull the door handle release trim off and pull the speaker grille up and off. To install: 4. Connect the wires and install the speakers in the cutouts. 5. Install the screws and grilles.

Fig. 46 A door panel mounted speaker as viewed from behind the door panel—1997 318i model shown

2. Disconnect the speaker's electrical connector by squeezing in on the connector lock tabs and pulling the connector outward. 3. Turn the speaker lock ring counter clockwise and remove the speaker. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Door/Dash Mounted Speakers/Tweeters Front Kick Panel Speakers

E30 MODELS 1. Remove the grilles by removing the screws, if equipped, or pulling up and prying out. 2. Remove the speaker mounting screws and the speakers. Disconnect the wires.

3. Connect the wires and install the speakers in the cutouts. Install the screws and grilles. E36 MODELS

> See Figure 46 1. Remove the door panel as outlined in Section

1. On left side speakers, remove the hood release lever on the left side.

2. Remove the kick panel trim by turning the lock screws 90 °. Pull the panel out and to the rear to remove. 3. Remove the screws and wires from the speakers and remove. To install: 4. Connect the wires and install the speakers in the cutouts. Install the screws and kick panels. 5. lf removed, install the hood release lever.

WINDSHIELD WIPERS AND WASHERS Windshield Wiper Blades & Arms REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Wiper Blade > See Figures 47, 48, 49 and 50

1. Lift the wiper arm up and place a soft towel on the base of the windshield should the arm or blade spring back unexpectedly. 2. Press and hold down the release tab on the wiper blade pivot. 3. While holding the release tab down, press the blade downward toward the arm to release the blade.

93131PB2

Fig. 47 To remove the wiper blade, press down on the wiper blade pivot release tab,

84276015

Fig. 48. . . and hold the tab down while pressing the wiper blade pivot out of the wiper arm

6-16

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

84276016

Fig. 49 Once the wiper blade pivot clears the end of the wiper arm,. .

84276017

Fig. 51 Remove the wiper arm cover to access the mounting nut

Fig. 50. . . the wiper blade can be removed from the wiper arm

90966P40

93136P97

Fig. 53 Matchmark the wiper arm and the wiper pivot to ensure proper alignment during reassembly

Fig. 52 Loosen and remove the wiper blade mounting nut

90966P38

Fig. 55 The left and right wiper arms are different lengths. If both are to be removed, label them to make sure they are properly installed

4. If replacing the insert, lower the wiper arm downward onto the protective cloth until the wiper blade is ready to install. To install: 5. Lift the blade assembly upward into the wiper arm until the pivoting clip snaps in place.

Wiper Arm

> See Figures 51, 52, 53, 54 and 55 1. Make sure the wipers are in the park position and the ignition switch is OFF before removing the wiper arms. 2. Carefully remove the wiper arm mounting nut cover off the base of the wiper arm. Matchmark the wiper arm and spindle position of the arm to return it to the original position.

90966P41

3. Loosen and remove the nut, then press down on the wiper arm several times to release it from its mounting spindle. 4, Hold the arm onto the spindle and lift the arm upward until it locks. Then carefully lift the wiper arm and blade assembly off the wiper pivot. To install: 5. Install the arm on the shaft, aligning the matchmarks made during disassembly and press down on the wiper arm until it is fully seated. Install the mounting nut and cover. 6. Start the engine and allow it to idle with all electrical accessories off. 7. Wet the windshield with water and operate the wipers at full speed. If the wiper blades contact the windshield trim, loosen the mounting nut and reposition as necessary. If small.adjustments to repositioning the wiper arm are not possible, with the wiper mounting nut loosed, pivot the wiper arm back an forth several times before repositioning, and then tighten the mounting nut.

Windshield Wiper Motor & Linkage REMOVAL & INSTALLATION e>lf the wiper motor is to be replaced, test the replacement motor several times and make sure it is properly parked before installing it. Once installed, operate the wiper motor several times, then allow it to park before installing the wiper arms.

Fig. 54 Press down on the wiper arm several times once the mounting nut has been removed to release the arm from the pivot E30 Models

1. Remove the heater blower motor and the bracket under the wiper motor. 2. Disconnect the motor wiring. If only removing the motor, remove the shaft nut and the 3 mounting nuts. Pull the motor out. 3. Release the clips on the blower plate and disconnect the flaps to remove the blower plate. 4. Remove the wiper arms and the grill. Disconnect the links on the mount for the left pivot. 5. Remove the shaft covers and remove the nut. Remove the washer and pull the linkage out of the opening. To install: 6. Install the linkage, washer and nuts. Install the shaft covers and connect the left pivot links. Install the grille and the wiper arms. 7. Install the blower plate and clip into place. Install the motor and link on the shaft. 8. Connect the wires, install the mount and the blower motor. E36 Models

FOUR DOOR MODELS > See Figures 56 thru 63 1, Return the wipers to the parked position and remove the fuse. Remove the wiper arms. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. ->Do not operate the wipers while the hood is open. With the hood open the wiper arms could damage the hood and windshield.

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

90966P37

Fig. 56 Once the wiper arms are removed, you can remove the trim panel retainers

90966P36

6-17

90966P33

Fig. 57 Remove the trim panel by carefully

Fig. 58 Remove the wiper pivot nuts with

lifting it upward

a1 %e inch (27mm) wrench

90966P68

Fig. 59 Remove the wiper assembly support bracket

Fig. 60 Drop the wiper assembly downward to access the wiper motor electrical connector. Lift the locking bracket upward to release the electrical connector

9096631 :

Fig. 61 Remove the wiper motor complete with the mounting bracket and wiper piv-

ots

10. On M50 equipped vehicles, install the injector cover and the valve cover cladding. 11. Install the air intake cowl. Connect the electrical duct and install the grill. 12. Connect the negative battery terminal and the wiper fuse. Cycle the wiper motor and install the wiper arms. Close the hood before operating the wipers again.

TWO DOOR MODELS

Wiper linkage ball] socket 90966P70

Fig. 62 Matchmark the wiper motor pivot arm, motor and mounting bracket before removing the motor

2. Remove the intake air cowl grille cover. Remove the bolts at the ends of the cowl and from the inside holding the electrical duct. Pull the cowl out from the left. 3. For models with 6-cylinder engines, remove the injector cover and the valve cover cladding. 4. Protect the inside and edges of the cowl area to prevent scratching. Loosen and remove the wiper arm shaft nuts. Remove the brace holding the linkage and disconnect the wiring plug. 5. Wrap tape around the left wiper arm shaft to prevent scratching. Pull the linkage down on the right and rotate the linkage out of the cowl. 6. Pull of the linkage rods from the motor crank. Remove the motor crank nut and pull off the

crank. Remove the 3 mounting bolts and remove

_ themotor.

Fig. 63 The wiper linkage ball socket can be snapped off to remove, or snapped in place to install onto the wiper motor’s arm

To install: 7. Connect the wiper motor to the electrical plug and actuate the motor to return the motor to the parked position, if necessary. Install the motor on the linkage and press on the crank arm. The arm should make a straight line with the right side drive linkage while in, the parked position. Install the nut on the motor‘shaft. Press on the linkage arms. 8. Install the linkage starting with the left side. Rotate the linkage into place and pass the wiper arm

shalts through the openings.

9. Install the wiper arm shaft nuts, the braceto-motor bolt, and then the brace-to-body bolt. Check the rubber bushings on the wiring at the electrical ducts are secure to prevent water from entering. Connect the wiper plug.

1. Return the wipers to the parked position and remove the fuse. Remove the wiper arms. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Open the hood and remove the bolts from both sides. Pull the hood towards the front and remove the cowl trim piece. 3. Remove the intake air cowl grille cover. Remove the bolts at the ends of the cowl and from the inside holding the electrical duct. Pull the cow! out from the left. 4, Remove the 4 linkage mounting bolts along the cowl starting at the right side near the center of the vehicle and working to the left. Remove the 2 bolts holding the motor brace and disconnect the motor electrical plug. To be able to remove the linkage from the cowl, unscrew the connector from the firewall, but do not push it into the opening. 5. Protect the inside and edges of the cow! area to prevent scratching. Loosen and remove the wiper arm shaft nuts. 6. Wrap tape around the left wiper arm shaft to prevent scratching. Pull the linkage down on the right and rotate the linkage out of the cowl. 7. Pull of the linkage rods from the motor crank, Remove the motor crank nut and pull off the

6-18

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

crank. Remove the 3 mounting bolts and remove the motor. To install:

8. Connect the wiper motor to the electrical plug and actuate the motor to return the motor to the parked position, if necessary. Install the motor on the linkage and press on the crank arm. The arm should make a straight line with the right side drive linkage while in the parked position. Install the nut on the motor shaft. Press on the linkage arms. 9. Install the linkage starting with the left side. Rotate the linkage into place and pass the wiper arm shafts through the openings. Install the connector and connect the plug. Attach the wire to the holder with a wire tie. 10. Install and tighten the 4 linkage mounting bolts finger-tight. To prevent body damage, tighten the bolts starting with the leftmost bolt near the hood hinge, then the bolt nearest the center of the vehicle. Tighten the bolt next to that one and then the last bolt. 11. Install the wiper arm shaft nuts, then the brace to motor bolt and then the brace to the body bolt. Check the rubber bushings on the wiring at the electrical ducts are secure to prevent water from entering.

12. Install the air intake cowl. Connect the electrical duct and install the grill. 13. Connect the negative battery terminal and the wiper fuse. Cycle the wiper motor and install the wiper arms.

Windshield Washer Pump

5. Lubricate the rubber grommet with washer fluid or a mild liquid soap.

6. Press the pump and its pickup into the reservoir making sure it is fully seated. 7. Refill the reservoir and check for fluid leaks and normal operation.

Wiper & Washer Control Unit/Relay

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The windshield washer pump is mounted in the washer reservoir and sealed and held in place by a rubber grommet. To remove the pump: 1. Detach the electrical connector from the pump. 2. Drain the washer fluid reservoir or place a drain pan underneath to catch the fluid when the pump is removed. 3. Carefully remove the pump from the reservoir, taking care to not damage the sealing grommet. To install: 4, Inspect the rubber sealing grommet and if

cracked, brittle or damaged replace it.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

The wiper and washer control relay is located in the underhood relay box, between the shock tower and the cowl. The relay is at the rightmost rear of the unit. To replace the relay, simply pull itout of the socket. E36 Models

The contro! module for the wiper and washer is located under the left kick panel near the footrest

and hood release lever. Disconnect the multi-pin connector to remove. °

INSTRUMENTS AND SWITCHES

Exercise care when working around the instrument panel and related components. Make sure to avoid exposing them to static electricity. Before handling these components, make sure to grasp a known good chassis ground to avoid damaging them.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

2k CAUTION Some models covered by this manual may be equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors,

the air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, disable the SRS, as described in this section. E30 Models

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Turn the screws 90 degrees and remove the lower dashboard trim. Remove the mounting nuts for the lower instrument panel trim from behind the

panel. 3. Remove the 4 screws from the bottom of the instrument cluster, noting the lengths and positions for installation. Remove the upper 4 screws. Pull the instrument panel forward. 4, Pull the sliding lock out on the combination plug and remove the plug. Remove the other electrical connections and remove the cluster. To install: 5. Connect the plugs and install the cluster. 6. Replace the screws in the original positions. 7. Install the trim panels.

> See Figures 64 thru 72 The instrument cluster may need to be re-coded if it is to be replaced. ABMW dealer or qualified shop will be able to perform this function. Check on the availability of this service before disconnecting the instrument cluster. 1. Disarm the SRS (air bag) system as outlined in this section. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Remove the steering wheel and the instrument cluster mounting screws. 4. Protect the top of the steering column and tilt the instrument cluster down. Pull the cluster out. 5. Pivot the electrical connector’s locking levers upward to disconnect the plugs. Remove the instrument cluster. To install: 6. With the levers fully released, connect the plugs and pivot downward until it locks into place.

90964P87

90968P67

Fig. 64 The instrument cluster fasteners are located on the underside of the dashboard opening

E36 Models

Fig. 65 Remove the Torx® fasteners from . .

the top leftand.

. top right of the cluster

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

6-19

Tyi

h

Ce, 90964P85

Fig. 67 Use a soft plastic prytool or a similartool. ..

4

90964P84

Fig. 68. . . to carefully release the cluster from the dashboard

90966P44

Fig. 69 Pull the instrument cluster partially out of the instrument panel

Upward to release | 90966P49

Fig. 70 You must pivot the instrument cluster connector locking bracket upward

Fig. 71 Once the electrical connector | ocking bracket is in the released

to release it

position. . .

7. Install the instrument cluster and secure with the retaining screws. 8. Have a MVAC certified tech recover the A/C system refrigerant. 9. Install the steering wheel. 10. Rearm the SRS (air bag) system and recode the radio.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

Service Interval Assembly » See Figure 73 The Service Interval (SI) display circuit board is removable on the E30 models. Other vehicles have the Service Interval assembly as an integral part of the instrument panel. Most problems with the SI stem from bad connections, faulty grounds, relays replaced with nonstandard non diode relays, or bad batteries. The circuit board can be exchanged or have the batteries replaced by soldering new tab batteries in place.

90966P45

Fig. 72. . . you can unplug the electrical connector from the rear of the instrument cluster

REMOVAL & ASSEMBLY E30 Models

1. Remove the instrument cluster. 2. Disassemble the instrument cluster to separate the carrier from the instruments. 3. Remove the screw holding the light guide at the center of the carrier assembly. Slide the Service Interval circuit board out.

Headlight Switch REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the instrument cluster. 2. Remove the 9 screws from the back of the cluster; 8 arranged around the perimeter and 1 in the center. 3. Pull the housing off the cluster. 4, Remove the gauge mounting screws and pull the gauge off. 5. Install the gauge and the mounting screws. Mount the housing on the cluster and affix the Screws. 6. Install the cluster in the dashboard.

E30 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove the lower left dashboard trim below the light switch.

3. Unscrew the light switch knob. 4. Detach the electrical connector and pull off the light switch.

5. Install the switch, connector and knob. E36 Models

» See Figures 74, 75, 76 and 77 The instrument cluster is replaced as a unit. Do not disassemble the instrument cluster.

Fig. 73 The service indicator assembly is part of the instrument cluster on E36 models

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the screws for the lower left dashboard trim below the light switch. Remove the panel.

6-20

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Pie, NG

‘ 90966P50

90966P53

90966P52

Fig. 76 Slide the panel outward to access Fig. 74 Remove the mounting screw in the dash below the head lamp switch

Fig. 75 Use a soft plastic wedge to ease out the trim panel

To install: 4. Install the switch with the notch matching the retainer in the dashboard, then install the nut and knob. 5. Connect the wiring. 6. Install the panel into the dash. It may be necessary to use a thin long shank screwdriver through the vent to help line up the dash vent with the duct in the dash. Do not force the panel into place. 7. Once in place, install the mounting screw.

Back-up Light Switch 90966P51

Fig. 77 Pull the panel, along with the Switch, away from the dash and remove it from the vehicle

2. Disconnect the electrical plug by turning it counterclockwise and remove the panel with the switch from the dashboard. 3. Protect the light switch knob with masking tape and pull the light switch knob off the switch’s shaft. Remove the switch shaft mounting nut and remove the switch.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Manual Transmissions

The back-up light switch is attached to the transmission. Please refer to Section 7 for back-up light switch removal procedures. Automatic Transmissions

The back-up light switch is part of the neutral safety switch located inside the gear selector trim cover.

the electrical connector. Turn the connector counterclockwise to release it

1. Remove the 3mm hex head fastener from the gear selector knob and remove the knob. 2. Carefully release the gear selector housing cover from the console. 3. Remove the neutral safety switch electrical connector by squeezing the retaining clips and detaching the connector. 4. Remove the neutral safety switch mounting fasteners. 5. Move the gear selector until the selector's pin aligns with the small slot in the switch and lift. the switch upward to remove. To install: 6. Align the slot of the switch with the slot of the switch housing. 7. Move the gear selector as necessary to engage the pin into the slots of the switch. 8. Install the switch mounting fasteners. 9. Install the trim covers. 10. Install the gear selector’s release button such that the pin is installed into the hole on the gear selector linkage and install the gear selector knob onto the selector shaft.

LIGHTING Light Bulb Specifications High beam: Type 9006 Low bean: Type 9005 Front parking light/turn signal: 12 V 21/5 W Fog lights: Type 9006 Brake light: 12 V 21 W Turn signal: 12 V 21 W Tail light: 12V 10 W Rear fog light: 12 V 21 W Backup light: 12 V 21 W License plate light: Type C 1112 V5 W Instrument lights: Type W 12/1.2 12 V1.2 W

Headlights

+ CAUTION Never touch the clear lens of a headlight bulb prior to installation. If the bulb has been touched or come in contact with debris, use a clean soft cloth dampened ~ with rubbing alcohol and clean the bulb, then wipe dry before installing.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 78, 79 and 80 1. Open the hood and if equipped, remove the plastic cover over the headlight assemblies.

MRotate bulb to: remove

2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb. 3. Rotate the bulb counterclockwise at the rear of the headlight assembly and pull out. e>Do not touch the glass portion of the bulb. This will shorten the life of the bulb. Allow the

y \ pe

. f

90966P08 90966P71

Fig. 78 Unplug the electrical connector, then rotate the bulb counterclockwise

Fig. 79 Once the bulb has been rotated about % of a turn counterclockwise, the locking tabs should align with the slots in the headlight housing. . . ;

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

6-21

HIGH-INTENSITY AR

VEHICLE CENTERUNE

7 62 METERS (25 FEET)

Fig. 80. . . now you can pull the bulb out of the housing to replace bulb to cool before removing it from the headlight assembly.

To install: 4. Install the new bulb into the headlight hous-

ing and rotate clockwise to lock into position.

ae

5. Connect the wiring and replace the plastic cover as necessary.

AIMING

cee

CENTER OF

> See Figures 81 thru 86

ra eS H LENS

The following items should be considered before aiming the headlights: e Check and set tire pressures to specification e Vehicle's fuel tank full or an appropriate load in the trunk e Have a load equivalent to the driver's weight on the driver's seat ¢ On vehicles with xenon headlamps, wait 30

7.62 METERS

seconds after switching them on

1. Park the vehicle on level ground, so it is perpendicular to and, facing a flat wall about 25 ft. (7.6m) away. 2. Remove any stone shields, if equipped, and switch ON the lights. 3. Aim them as follows: a. The horizontal distance between the light beams on the wall should be the same as between the lights themselves. b. The vertical height of the light beams

93136P14

Fig. 81 A No. 2 Phillips screwdriver is | usedto turn the adjustment wheels

i el

:

TOCASGZ5

Fig. 84 The horizontal or height adjustment and vertical or side-to-side adjustment wheels shown for E36 3 series vehicles

Fig. 85 The horizontal or height adjustment and vertical or side-to-side adjustment wheels shown for E36 Z3 vehicles

-

6-22

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

__ Press forward —+>>

90966604

Fig. 86 The fog light horizontal or height adjustment is performed through an opening in the lower grille—E36 model illustrated

; "90966P72 Fig. 87 Squeeze the retaining clips to release the bulb assembly from the socket

90966P73

Fig. 88 Slide the marker assembly forward until. ...

vg

ho

|

90966P22

Fig. 89. . . the rear of the assembly clears the opening and lift outward

above the ground should be 4 in. (10cm) less than the distance between the ground and the center of the lamp lenses for fog lights. For driving lights, the vertical height should be even ’ with the distance between the ground and the center of the lamp. 4. Test to make sure the lights work correctly, and the light pattern is even.

Signal and Marker Lights REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Front Turn Signals & Parking Lights

E30 MODELS 1. Remove the 2 screws holding the lens. Remove the lens. 2. Gently press the bulb in and rotate counterclockwise. 3. Pull the bulb out of the socket. Inspect the socket for corrosion. 4. Install the new bulb. Press in and rotate clockwise. Install the lens and screws.

90966P21

Fig. 90 Pull the lens assembly away from the vehicle, then. . .

Fig. 91. . . remove the socket assembly to access the bulb

2. Press the bulb in slightly and turn counterclockwise to release from the bulb socket. 3. Gently press the bulb in and rotate counterclockwise or depress the retaining clips. 4. Pull the bulb out of the socket. Inspect the socket for corrosion and clean as necessary. 5. If necessary, the lens assembly can be removed by pressing in on the retaining clip on the side of the assembly that locks it onto the headlight. Press the retainer away from the headlamp and slide the assembly forward to remove. To install: 6. Install the new bulb by pressing in and rotating clockwise. 7. Install the socket into the lens. 8. Close the hood.

3. Pull the lens assembly outward, then remove the bulb from the lens and remove the bulb. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

1. Remove the light assembly cover from inside the trunk. 2. On the E30 3 Series, the bulbs will be exposed when the cover is removed. On the E36 3 Series remove the protective cover, then rotate the bulb holders counterclockwise to remove the bulb holders.

Side Marker Lights The side market lights on the E30 models are held in by clips and are removed by prying the clips out. The E36 models front side marker lights are integrated with the front and rear turn signals and are replaced in the same fashion as the turn signals. Side Turn Signals

E36 MODELS

> See Figures 88, 89, 90 and 91

» See Figure 87

The E36 models have a side, fender mounted turn signal. 1. Slide the light assembly forward. 2. Once the assembly has been slid forward, pull outward on the rear portion to release.

1. Open the hood. From behind the turn signal, squeeze to release the clip and pull the socket assembly out of the back of the assembly.

Rear Turn Signals, Brake & Parking Lights

> See Figures 92, 93, 94 and 95

Fig. 92 Remove the rear cover by rotating | the handle—E36 3 Series shown

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

Fig. 93 View of the bulb holders once the cover has been removed

3. Press the bulb in and rotate counterclockwise to remove 4. Install the bulb holder and cover.

High Mount (Third) Brake Light 1. From inside the trunk remove the bulb holder directly beneath the brake light. On convertibles, remove the 4 screws under the light on the trunk lid and remove the cover. On the M3, pull the cover back and down. 2. Remove the bulb from the socket. 3. Check the socket for corrosion and replace the bulb. Replace the socket or cover.

84276022

90966P18

90966P17

Fig. 94 Rotate the bulb holder counterclockwise to remove

2. Press the lens assembly to the left and lift up to release. 3. Remove the bulb from the contacts. 4. Installation is in reverse order of assembly. Interior Lights

E30 MODELS 1. Pull the housing down from the headliner. 2. Remove the bulb from the assembly. 3. Check the contacts for corrosion and secure fit against the bulb when replaced. 4. Install the new bulb and the assembly into the body.

6-23

Fig. 95 Press the bulb in and rotate counterclockwise to remove

E36 MODELS

> See Figures 98 thru 103 1. Use a suitable clean, smooth, thin flat-bladed prytool and carefully release the left side of the light assembly, 2. Once removed, separate the lens and housing to access the bulbs. 3. Remove the bulbs from their retainers and

replace as necessary. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

License Plate Lights

E30 MODELS 1. Remove the screws from the light and pull out to the side. 2. Remove the bulb from the assembly. 3. Check the contacts for corrosion and secure fit against the bulb when replaced. 4. Install the new bulb and the assembly into the body. Install the screws.

~ Press to the left then lift up

£36 MODELS > See Figures 96 and 97

90966P74

1. Remove the rear trim lifting handle by removing the four Phillips fasteners in the recessed holes.

Fig. 96 Remove the rear trim/lift handle to access the license plate bulbs

Fig. 97 Press the lens assembly to the left and lift upward to release

or,7, Bh uy

90966P24 90966P25

Fig. 98 Use a thin prytool to carefully release the light assembly from the headliner

* Fig. 99 As the retainer is released, carefully pull the assembly away from the

headliner

Fig. 100 Pull downward until the housing clears and slide to the left to remove

6-24

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL

90966P26

90966P28

Fig. 101 Use a small prytool to release the lens clips

Fog/Driving Lights

“+ CAUTION Never touch the clear lens of a fog light bulb prior to installation. If the bulb has been touched or come in contact with debris, use a clean soft cloth dampened with rubbing alcohol and clean the bulb, then wipe dry before installing.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

1. Remove the plugs over the screws and remove the screws. 2. Pull the assembly forward and remove the cover over the bulb. 3. Compress the clip holding the bulb and remove the bulb. Disconnect the wiring from the bulb. 4. Connect the wiring and replace the bulb. Install the cover and the light. Replace the Screws. E36 Models

1. Press the clip in accessible from the upper opening next to the light assembly. 2. Remove the bulb cover by turning to the left. Release the bulb spring and remove the bulb.

Fig. 102 Then, carefully remove the lens from the light assembly

3. Install the new bulb and replace the clip and cover. 4. Press the assembly into the opening. The unit will seat into place with a click.

INSTALLING AND WIRING AFTERMARKET LIGHTS Before installing any aftermarket light, make sure it is legal for road use. Most acceptable lights will have a DOT approval number. Also

check your local and regional inspection regulations. In certain areas, aftermarket lights must be installed in a particular manner or they may not be legal for inspection.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Unpack the contents of the light kit purchased. Place the contents in an open space where you can easily retrieve a piece if needed.

3. Choose a location for the lights. If you are installing fog lights, below the bumper and apart from each other is desirable. Most fog lights are mounted below or very close to the headlights. If you are installing driving lights, above the bumper and close together is desirable. Most driving lights are mounted between the headlights. 4. Drill the needed hole(s) to mount the light. Install the light, and secure using the supplied retainer nut and washer. Tighten the light mounting hardware, but not the light adjustment nut or bolt. 5, Install the relay that came with the light kit

Fig. 103 Once the lens assembly is removed, the bulbs can be accessed

in the engine compartment, in a rigid area, such as a fender. Always install the relay with the terminals facing down. This will prevent water from entering the relay assembly. 6. Using the wire supplied, locate the ground terminal on the relay, and connect a length of wire from this terminal to a good ground source. You can drill a hole and screw this wire to an inside piece of metal; just scrape the paint away from the hole to ensure a good connection. 7. Locate the light terminal on the relay; and attach a length of wire between this terminal and the fog/driving lamps. 8. Locate the ignition terminal on the relay, and connect a length of wire between this terminal and the light switch. 9. Find a suitable mounting location for the light switch and install. Some examples of mounting areas are a location close to the main light switch, auxiliary light position in the dash panel, if equipped, or in the center of the dash panel. 10. Depending on local and regional regulations, the other end of the switch can be connected to a constant power source such as the battery, an ignition opening in the fuse panel, or a parking or headlight wire. 11. Locate the power terminal on the relay, and connect a wire with an in-line fuse of at least 10 amperes between the terminal and the battery. 12. With all the wires connected and tied up neatly, connect the negative battery cable. 13. Turn the lights ON and adjust the light pattern, if necessary.

CIRCUIT PROTECTION Fuses

REPLACEMENT » See Figures 104, 105 and 106 Use the provided plastic fuse puller located in the fuse panel to remove fuses. The upper lid of the fuse panel has a diagram of the fuse locations and amperage ratings for each circuit. The fuse is removed by simply pulling upward on the fuse with the removal tool. The fuses are easily checked by visual inspection. With the ignition switch OFF pull the fuse out of the holder. Check the fuse filament. It should be continuous and not broken. If the filament is bro-

90966P01

Fig. 104 The fuse/relay box is located just behind the left front shock tower

Fig. 105 The fuse and relay location index is located in the top of the fuse box on E36 models—M44 318 model shown

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL FUSIBLE LINK COLOR CODING WIRE LINK SIZE

| INSULATION COLOR Blue Brown or Red Black or Orange Green Gray 90986689

Fig. 107 Common fusible link color coding 90966P03

Fig. 106 The fuse puller is located in the electrical box. The puller can also be used to remove the relays

ken, replace the fuse with one of the same amperage rating. The fuse and relay box on the.E30 and E36 models is located in the engine compartment. The E36 models also has relay boxes located under the left side of the dashboard.

REPLACEMENT

|

1. If necessary remove the lower dash trim to access the flasher relay. 2. Remove the relay from the electrical connector and replace as necessary. 5 E36 Models

6-25

should not be confused with standard wire. The fusible link wire gauge is smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fusible link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness. Fusible link wire is covered with a special thick, non-flammable insulation. An overload condition causes the insulation to blister. If the overall condition continues, the wire will melt. To check a fusible link, look for blistering insulation. If the insulation is okay, pull gently on the wire. If the fusible link stretches, the wire has melted.

Fusible links are often identified by the color coding of the insulation. Refer to the accompanying illustration for wire link size and color.

Circuit Breakers

» See Figures 104, 105 and 106 The flasher relay is in the rear left of the engine compartment, in the front power distribution fuse/relay box. 1. Open the fuse/relay box lid and using the provided removal tool, lift the relay away from its electrical socket and replace as necessary.

Fusible Links

E30 Models

» See Figure 107

The flasher relay is on the upper part of the steering column.

The fusible link is a short length of wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and

RESETTING AND/OR REPLACEMENT Circuit breakers are located inside the fuse panel. They are automatically reset when the problem corrects itself, is repaired, or the circuit cools down to allow operation again.

6-26

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL INDEX OF WIRING DIAGRAMS DIAGRAM 1

DIAGRAM2 DIAGRAM 3

Sample Diagram: How To Read & Interpret Wiring Diagrams

— Sample Diagram: Wiring Diagram Symbols 1991 1.8L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM4

= 1991 1.8L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM5

1991 1.8L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM6

~==1991 1.8L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM7

= 1991 1.8L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 8 ~~ 1991 1.8L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM9

= 1992-95 1.9L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 10

= 1992-95 1.9L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 11 = 1992-95 1.9L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 12

=1992-95 1.9L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 13 = 1992-95 1.9L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 14

1992-95 1.9L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 15 = 1992-95 1.9L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 16 =:1996-98 1.9L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 17

1989-91 2.3L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 18 = 1989-91 2.3L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 19 = 1989-91 2.3L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 20 = 1989-91 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 21 =:1989-91 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 22 = 1989-91 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 23 = 1989-91 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 24 = 1989-91 2.5L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 25 = 1989-91 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 26 = 1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 27 =:1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 28

1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 29 = 1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic :

DIAGRAM 30 = 1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 31 =:1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic DIAGRAM 32 = 1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 33

1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 34 = 1992-93 2.5L Engine Schematic

F

DIAGRAM 35 = 1992-93 2.5L Engine Scher atic ret

s

|

CHASSIS ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM 36

1994-98 2.5L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 37

1996-98 2.8L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 38

1995-98 3.0L Engine Schematic

DIAGRAM 39

1989-93 Starting Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 40

1989-93 Windshield Wiper/Washer Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 41

1989-93 Fog Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 42

1989-93 Turn/Hazard Switch Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 43

1989-93 Turn/Hazard Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 44

1989-93 Park/Marker Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 45

1989-93 Rear Side Marker/License Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 46

1989-93 Stop Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 47

1991-95 Charge Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 48

1991-95 Starting Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 49

1991-95 Starting Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 50

1989-95 Headlights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 51

1991-95 Turn/Hazard Switch Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 52

1991-95 Hazard Switch Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 53

1991-95 Turn/Hazard Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 54

1991-95 Park/Marker Lights w/o DRL Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 55

1991-95 Park/Marker Lights w/o DRL Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 56

1991-95 Park/Marker Lights w/ DRL Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 57

1991-95 Park/Marker Lights w/ DRL Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 58

1991-95 Stop Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 59

1994-98 Starting, Charging, Horns Chassis Schematics

DIAGRAM 60

1994-98 Headlights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 61

1994-98 Fog Lights, Back-up Lights, Turn/Hazard Lights Chassis Schematic:

DIAGRAM 62

1994-98 Parking/Marker Lights, Stop Lights Chassis Schematics

DIAGRAM 63

1994-98 Cooling Fans Chassis Schematics

DIAGRAM 64

1996-98 Z3 Starting, Charging Chassis Schematics

DIAGRAM 65

1996-98 Z3 Cooling Fan, Fuel Pump Chassis Schematics

DIAGRAM 66

; 1996-98 Z3 Headlights, Fog Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 67

1996-98 Z3 Parking/Marker Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 68

1996-98 Z3 Turn/Hazard Lights Chassis Schematic

DIAGRAM 69

1996-98 Z3 Brake Lights, Back-up Lights, Horns Chassis Schematics x

6-27

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HIGH LEVEL STOP LIGHT

RIGHT BACK UP LIGHT

HOT AT ALL TIMES FUSE 8

HOT AT ALL TIMES FROM BATTERY

IGNITION SWITCH

DIAGRAM 69

MANUAL TRANSMISSION 7-2 UNDERSTANDING THE MANUAL TRANSMISSION 7-2 SHIFTER KNOB 7-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-2 SHIFT LINKAGE 7-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-2 BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH 7-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-4 EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL 7-5 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-5 MANUAL TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY 7-5 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-5 CLUTCH 7-8 UNDERSTANDING THE CLUTCH 7-8 CLUTCH PEDAL 7-8 HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT 7-8 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-8 DRIVEN DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE 7-8 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-8 ADJUSTMENTS 7-10 FLYWHEEL INSPECTION 7-10 SURFACE INSPECTION 7-10 DUAL MASS FLYWHEELS 7-11 PILOT BEARING 7-11 INSPECTION 7-11 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-11 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 7-12 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-12 SLAVE CYLINDER 7-12 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-12 HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 7-13 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 7-13 UNDERSTANDING THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 7-13 TORQUE CONVERTER 7-14 PLANETARY GEARBOX 7-14 SERVOS AND ACCUMULATORS 7-14 HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM 7-15 FLUID PAN 7-15 SHIFTER SWITCH 7-15 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-15 SHIFTER CABLE 7-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-16 REAR OUTPUT SEAL 7-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-16 NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH 7-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-16 ADJUSTMENT 7-16 EXTENSION HOUSING OUTPUT SEAL 7-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-16 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ASSEMBLY 7-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-16 ADJUSTMENTS 7-17

TRANSFER CASE 7-18 REAR/FRONT OUTPUT SEAL 7-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-18 TRANSFER CASE ASSEMBLY 7-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-18 DRIVELINE 7-19 FRONT DRIVESHAFT 7-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-19 REAR DRIVESHAFT 7-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-19 FLEX COUPLING (GUIBO DISK) 7-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-19 DRIVESHAFT END BEARING 7-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-20 CENTER BEARING 7-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-20 FRONT DRIVE AXLE 7-20 HALFSHAFTS 7-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-20 HUB AND BEARINGS 7-20 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-20 FINAL DRIVE 7-21 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-21 REAR AXLE 7-21 HALFSHAFT 7-21 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-21 CV-JOINT OVERHAUL 7-23 CV BOOT CLAMP INSTALLATION 7-23 AXLE FLANGE AND BEARING ASSEMBLY 7-24 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-24 PINION SEAL 7-24 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-24 DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY 7-24 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-24 SPECIFICATIONS CHARTS TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 7-25

DRIVE TRAIN MANUAL TRANSMISSION CLUTCH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION TRANSFER CASE DRIVELINE FRONT DRIVE AXLE REAR AXLE

7-2 7-8 7-13 7-18 7-19 7-20 7-21

7-2

DRIVE TRAIN

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MANUAL TRANSMISSION Understanding the Manual Transmission Because of the way an internal combustion engine breathes, it can produce torque (or twisting force) only within a narrow speed range. Most overhead valve pushrod engines must turn at about 2500 rpm to produce their peak torque. Often by 4500 rpm, they are producing so little torque that continued increases in engine speed produce no power increases. The torque peak on overhead camshaft engines is, generally, much higher, but much narrower. The manual transmission and clutch are employed to vary the relationship between engine RPM and the speed of the wheels so that adequate power can be produced under all circumstances. The clutch allows engine torque to be applied to the transmission input shaft gradually, due to mechanical slippage. The vehicle can, consequently, be started smoothly from a full stop. The transmission changes the ratio between the rotating speeds of the engine and the wheels by the use of gears. 4-speed or 5-speed transmissions are most common. The lower gears allow full engine power to be applied to the rear wheels during acceleration at low speeds. The clutch driveplate is a thin disc, the center of which is splined to the transmission input shaft. Both sides of the disc are covered with a layer of material which is similar to brake lining and which is capable of allowing slippage without roughness Or excessive noise. The clutch cover is bolted to the engine flywheel and incorporates a diaphragm spring which provides the pressure to engage the clutch. The cover also houses the pressure plate. When the clutch pedal is released, the driven disc is sand-

wiched between the pressure plate and the smooth surface of the flywheel, thus forcing the disc to turn at the same speed as the engine crankshaft. The transmission contains a mainshaft which passes all the way through the transmission, from the clutch to the driveshaft. This shaft is separated at one point, so that front and rear portions can turn at different speeds. Power is transmitted by a countershaft in the lower gears and reverse. The gears of the countershaft mesh with gears on the mainshaft, allowing power to be carried from one to the other. Countershaft gears are often integral with that shaft, while several of the mainshaft gears can either rotate independently of the shaft or be locked to it. Shifting from one gear to the next causes one of the gears to be freed from rotating with the shaft and locks another to it. Gears are locked and unlocked by internal dog clutches which slide between the

center of the gear and the shaft. The forward gears usually employ synchronizers; friction members which smoothly bring gear and shaft to the same speed before the toothed dog clutches are engaged.

» See Figures 1 and 2 1. Block the wheels and set the parking brake. 2. Place the transmission in neutral with the engine OFF. 3. Grasp the gear shift lever and pull upwards sharply. It may take several attempts to release the knob. To install: 4. Align the knob on the shift shaft and rap the top of the knob downward sharply until it is fully seated.

Shift Linkage The shift linkage is not adjustable on the E30 or E36 models, however it can be replaced without removing the transmission and must be removed if the transmission is to be removed.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

> See Figures 3 and 4

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

1. Pull up the leather boot from the console. 2. Disconnect the shift knob illumination har-

ness, if equipped. 3. The shift knob either unscrews from the shaft or pull off. 4. Install in reverse order and align the knob.

90967P13

Fig. 1 The shift knob is removed by lifting up and unsnapping it from the shift lever

E36 Models

1. Remove the shifter knob and boot. 2. Remove the rubber cover from the shifter pivot. Remove the snapring, if equipped. Remove the shifter pivot. 3. Remove the snaprings holding the shift rod and pull the rod off. 4. Remove the bolts holding the shift arm or pry up the clip holding the shift arm. Remove the shift arm. The entire shifter assembly will come out. To install: 5. Install the shifter arm and linkage. Replace the snaprings, pivot and rubber cover. Install the shifter and boot.

90967P12

Fig. 2 Once the knob is removed, if desired, the leather trim can be unsnapped and the sound deadening and boot removed

DRIVE TRAIN

7-3

E36 Models

> See Figures 5 thru 15

1. Selector arm 2. Console 3. Bolt 4. Bolt

5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Nut Selector rod Spacer Snapring Selector rod joint

10. Pin 11. Felt pad for lubrication 12. Spring sleeve 13. Lower plate

14, 15, 16. 17. 18 19.

Damper plate Rubber cover Rubber mount Holder

20. 21. 22. 23. 24, 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31.

Upper shift lever Shift lever assembly Snapring Lower shift lever Upper plate Spring Spacer Snapring Rubber ring Washer Shift boot Shift knob

Snapring

84277001

1. 2. 3. 4, 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.

| Fig. 4 Gear shift linkage—late E30 3 Series show 7

Shifter arm Bearing sleeve Bearing shaft Bearing bracket Nut Shift lever Mount Rubber cover Shift boot Shift knob Shift rod

12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19, 20.

Washers Retainer Shift rod joint Spacers Washer Retainer Pin Spring sleeve Felt pad for lubrication

The shift linkage is located in the transmission tunnel of the vehicle and with exception of the shift knob, is accessed from underneath the vehicle. Because the linkage is located above the transmission there is very little space available to access the upper retaining pin. If just the linkage is to be removed, it may be necessary to partially disconnect the exhaust system and driveshaft and support the transmission with a suitable jack and remove the rear transmission support to allow the transmission to be lowered enough to access the linkage pivot pin. 1. Remove the shift knob as outlined in this section. If desired, remove the leather trim, sound deadening and rubber shift boot. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. If removing the transmission: a. Disconnect the exhaust system at the exhaust header, disconnect the oxygen sensor(s) and remove the exhaust system as a unit. b. Remove or partially remove and support the driveshaft. 4. In not removing the transmission: a. Disconnect the exhaust down pipe from the exhaust manifold and the transmission support bracket and support as necessary, b. Remove the driveshaft from the transmission output flange and support it away from the transmission. 5. Support the engine or transmission with a suitable jack, then remove the transmission support bracket fasteners. Carefully lower the transmission assembly about 3-4 inches (75-100mm) to allow adequate room to access the linkage locking pin. 6. Label the shift lever bushing direction to ensure proper assembly, as the shifter is installed from under the vehicle. 7. Remove the snaprings from the shift linkage at the gear shifter and the transmission selector shaft, then remove the shift shaft. Be careful to not loose the shifter bushings, the circlips and if installed any thrust washers. 8. Locate the mounting pin for the gearshift support bracket at the top rear of the transmission and using a small suitable flat-bladed prytool, release the lock clip on the right side of the pin and pivot the lock clip upward. Move the lock clip back and forth while pulling on it from the left side to remove the pin from the transmission and support

bracket.

4

9. Once the lock pin is removed, push the . bracket upward and slide it forward to release it an from the rear support bushing. Carefully lower the ‘di ~ bracket complete with the shift lever from the if vehicle. J 10. Installation is in reverse order of assembly S noting the following. Thoroughly clean and lubri= cate the shift linkage bushings and support bracket = bushing, inspect the circlips and replace as neces- -

sary.

a

7-4

DRIVE TRAIN

90967P18

Fig. 5 View of the driveshaft being removed from the transmission output flange

90967P20

Fig. 6 The center support bearing bracket is matchmarked to ensure correct reassembly

90967P11

Fig. 9 The retaining clip is removed from the right side of the shift shaft linkage

“90967P80

90967P10

Fig. 11. . . remove the transmission support bracket fasteners. This allows the engine to tilt back enough to access the top of the transmission

Fig. 7 The driveshaft is lowered and supported out of the way

90967P15

90967P14

Fig. 8 Labeling the shift lever with an arrow helps during reassembly as the shifter is installed from under the vehicle

90967P19

Fig. 12 The lock pin retainer must be released from the transmission’s upper right side. A small flat-bladed prytool works well for this

Fig. 13 View of a partially removed lock pin. The retaining clip snaps into place when fully seated

Back-up Light Switch

Mounting} 7

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figure 16

Shiftever bracket mounting pin 90967P91

90967P06

Fig. 14 The lock pin can be pivoted back and forth to help it slide out a bit easier

Fig. 15 Slide the shift lever mounting bracket forward to release it from the support bushings and lower it with the shift _ lever from the vehicle

1. Clean the area surrounding the switch on the side of the transmission as necessary. 2. Disconnect the switch electrical connector at the side of the transmission. 3. Remove the switch from the transmission by turning it counterclockwise. 4. Installation is in reverse order of removal. e>To test the back-up light circuit remove the electrical connector at the switch and install a

DRIVE TRAIN

90967P17

Fig. 16 Press the retaining clip in and release the electrical connector from the back-up light switch fused jumper wire between the two electrical terminals, turn the ignition switch to the on position and the back-up lights should operate.

Extension Housing Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove and support the driveshaft from the transmission output flange. 2. Clean the area around the seal and the flange. 3. Place a drain pan under the transmission. 4. Support the output flange and remove the retaining nut. 5. Using a seal removal too! or its equivalent, remove the seal. - To install: 6. Inspect the transmission casting for sharp edges and chamfer if necessary. 7. Install the seal by pressing it squarely and evenly into the transmission casting. 8. Apply a thin film of light grease or petroleum jelly to the lips of the seal and onto the area of the flange that contacts the lips of the seal. 9. Install the output flange and apply a medium strength locking compound onto the threads of the retaining nut and torque the nut as follows: All except GS5-39DZ F transmissions:

¢ Step 1: 140 ft. Ibs. (190 Nm) ¢ Step 2: Loosen % turn e Step 3 88.5 ft. Ibs. (120 Nm) GS5-39DZ F transmissions: ¢ Step 1: 147.5 ft. Ibs. (200 Nm) e Step 2: Loosen % turn © Step3107 ft. Ibs. (145 Nm) 10. The balance of assembly is in reverse order ~ of removal

Manual Transmission Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION + WARNING : on Akioand 328i models with M50 or M52

andequipped with ASC + T, the ) a

boty mb .

7-5

90967P92

Fig. 17 Before installing the transmission onto the engine, make sure the hollow dowels are installed into the engine to

Fig. 18 The mating surfaces of the engine and transmission must remain parallel to one another during installation to avoid damage to the input shaft or bearing

ease installation

removed to avoid damaging the brake master cylinder reservoir when the transmission is lowered.

9. Detach the wiring connector going to the backup light switch and pull the wires out of the harness. 10. Support the transmission from underneath in a secure manner. Remove mounting bolts and remove the crossmember holding the rear of the transmission to the body. Then, lower the transmission onto the front axle carrier. 11. Using the proper tool, remove the bolts holding the transmission flywheel housing to the engine at the front. If there is a separate clutch bell housing, remove the transmission to bell housing bolts. Make sure to retain the washers with the bolts. Pull the transmission rearward to slide the input shaft out of the clutch disc and then lower the transmission and remove from the vehicle. To install: 12. Install the transmission in position under the vehicle. Align the input shaft and install the transmission, note the following points: a. Coat the input shaft splines and flywheel housing guide pins with a light coating of suitable grease. If the inner collar of the release bearing is metal, coat the release bearing interior groove with grease. If the collar is plastic, do not grease it. b. Make sure the front mounting bolts are installed with their washers. For hex head bolts, torque the M8 bolts to 16-19.5 ft. Ibs. (22-27 Nm), torque the M10 bolts to 34-37 ft. Ibs. (47-51 Nm), torque the M12 bolts to 48-59 ft. lbs. (66-82 Nm). For Torx® head bolts, torque the M8 bolts to 14.5-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm), torque the M10 bolts to 27.5-34 ft. Ibs. (38-47 Nm), torque the M12 bolts to 52-58 ft. Ibs. (70-80 Nm). c. Before reinstalling the sending units for flywheel position and speed, make sure their faces are free of either grease or dirt and then coat them with a light coating of a suitable lubricant. Inspect the O-rings and replace them if they are cut, cracked, crushed, or stretched. d. When installing the shift rod bracket at the rear of the transmission, use new self-locking bolts and make sure the bracket is level before tightening them. Torque the shift rod bracket — bolts to 16.5 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) except with the $14 engine, which uses an aluminum bracket. With the S14 engine, torque these bolts to 106 inch Ibs. (12.Nm). e. Install the clutch slave cylinder. f. When installing the driveshaft center bear-

E30 Models

> See Figures 17 and 18 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the exhaust system. Remove the cross brace and heat shield. On the -325iX, remove the transfer case. 2. Hold the nuts on the front with one wrench, and remove bolts from the rear with another wrench to disconnect the flexible coupling at the front of the driveshaft. Some vehicles have a vibration damper at this point in the drivetrain. This damper is mounted on the transmission output flange with bolts that are pressed into the damper. On these vehicles, unscrew and remove the nuts located behind the damper. 3. Loosen the threaded sleeve on the driveshaft. Get a special tool to hold the splined portion of the shaft while turning the sleeve. 4. Remove its mounting bolts and remove the center driveshaft mount. Then, move the driveshaft down at the center and pull it off the transmission output flange. Keep the sections of the driveshaft from pulling apart and suspend it from the vehicle with wire. 5. Remove the retainer and washer, and pull out the shift selector rod. 6. Use a hex-head wrench to remove the selflocking bolts that retain the shift rod bracket at the rear of the transmission and then remove the bracket. If the vehicle has a shift arm, use a screwdriver to pry the spring clip up off the boss on the transmission case and swing it upward. Then, pull out the shift shaft pin. 7. Unscrew and remove the clutch slave cylinder and support it so the hydraulic linecan remain connected. 8. The transmission may incorporate sending units for flywheel rotating speed and position. Remove the heat shield that protects these from exhaust heat and then remove the retaining bolt for each sending unit. Note that the speed sending unit, ‘which has no identifying ring goes in the bore on the right, and that the reference mark sending unit, which has a marking ring, goes in the bore on the left. If the sending units are installed in reverse positions, the engine will not run at all. Pull these units out of the flywheel housing.

o

——-

7-6 ST

DRIVE TRAIN Se

A

SE

NE A

SL

ing, preload it forward $42~74e inch (46mm) Check the driveshaft alignment with an appropriate tool such. Replace the nuts and then torque the center mount bolts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (21-23 Nm). g. Torque the M10-8.8 flexible coupling bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm). Torque the M10-10.9 flexible coupling bolts to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). h. Torque the driveshaft threaded sleeve to 12 ft. Ibs. (17 Nm) after it complete installation. i. Fill the transmission with proper lubricant.

E36 Models

» See Figures 17 thru 30 e>The engine-to-transmission mounting fasteners could be either a hex head or Torx® head fastener. Though no definitive information appears to be available to determine exactly when, or which models use the Torx® head fas-

teners, it appears that most E36 models were assembled using the Torx® head style fasteners.

The area surrounding the engine and transmission is fairly compact. The following tools will greatly ease the removal of the engine-to-transmis-

sion fasteners: Breaker bar: e 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) long, ¥% inch drive Impact transmission extension: ¢ 2-3 feet (60-90 cm) long, ¥% inch drive end and ¥% inch driven end

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e>On engine-to-transmission units assembled using hex head fasteners, use 6-point metric ¥ inch drive shallow impact sockets instead of the inverted Torx® sockets listed above.

To remove the transmission, proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Place the transmission in neutral and remove the gear shift knob as outlined in this section. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4. Disconnect the oxygen sensor(s). 5. Remove the exhaust support bracket at the transmission, then disconnect the exhaust front pipe from the exhaust manifold, loosen the rear muffler hangers and remove the exhaust system as a unit. It may be necessary to have the help of an assistant during this procedure. 6. Remove the cross brace bracket and heat shields. 7. Remove the driveshaft assembly. BMW uses two versions of driveshafts: ¢ A combination of flex couplings and Constant Velocity (CV) joints ¢ A combination of flex couplings and Universal joints (u-joints)

90967P20

Fig. 19 Matchmark the center support bearing bracket and driveshaft-to-coupling-to-flange components to retain correct balance and alignment

A

Impact universal joint: e ¥% inch drive Impact inverted Torx® sockets: e Sizes E 10, E 12 and E 14, % inch drive

A

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Refer to the driveshaft removal procedures in this section for specific details on removal and installation. e»Before removal, matchmark the center bearing location and all couplers, flanges and flex disks to ensure proper alignment and balance during reassembly.

8. Remove the two clutch slave cylinder fasteners and place the cylinder aside using technicians wire to support it. 9. Detach the electrical connector from the back-up light switch. 10. Support the engine, then remove the transmission support cross member. 11. Lower the engine and transmission.slightly but do not allow the engine to rest against the firewall. 12. Disconnect and remove the shift linkage, and shift lever and bracket assembly as outlined in this section. 13. Inspect the area surrounding the transmission and make sure all lines, wires, brackets and related equipment is detached and placed aside. 14. Remove the starter motor. It may be necessary to remove and/or disconnect the lower flexible fuel lines to remove the starter. Some starters have a dowel pin, requiring the starter be rocked side-toside to loosen and remove it.

90967P23

Fig. 20 The flange, coupling and damper shown matchmarked with white touch-up

paint

Fig. 21 Carefully remove the heat shields to avoid damaging them

Fig. 23 The starter motor mounting fasten90967P26

Fig. 22 Label the mounting brackets to ensure proper reinstallation

ers are a bit more accessible but not necessarily visible once the engine/ transmission is lowered. There was barely room for the camera on this shot

Fig. 24 The inverted Torx® socket size and location for the engine-to-transmission mounting fasteners

DRIVE TRAIN

7-7

Prae

Startems bell hous "9096787

Fig. 25 Note the slight corrosion built up on these fasteners. Make sure the socket is fully seated during removal, as a significant torque may be required to break the bolts loose

90967P28

Fig. 26 Using a transmission jack and a lift truly help, however it is possible to do a quality job using suitable jack stands and a floor jack

90967P11

Fig. 27 Use a block of wood between the jack and the engine oil pan. If working on jack stands, a scissors jack works well for this, so the floor jack can be used to remove the transmission

Luioricate with grease

90967P94

Fig. 28 Whenever the transmission is removed or clutch replaced, before reinStalling, use a suitable high temperature grease, to lightly lubricate the transmission input shaft splines

15. Support the transmission with a suitable jack and remove the transmission-to-engine mounting fasteners. For fastener size and location, if necessary, refer to the provided illustrations. 16. Carefully slide the transmission away from the engine, keeping the mating surfaces parallel at all times. 17. If working on jack stands and using a floor jack to remove the transmission, it may be necessary to remove the transmission from the jack to create enough clearance to clear the underside of the vehicle. If working under these conditions, carefully lower the transmission from the jack onto a sturdy sheet of plywood or heavy cardboard. Then slowly and carefully slide the sheet out from underneath the vehicle until the transmission is clear of the under body. To install: 18. Make sure the hollow dowel pins are installed into the engine block to ease installation of the transmission. 19. Coat the following with a light coating of an approved high temperature grease: ¢ The transmission input shaft splines ¢ Release bearing-to-fork contact area Release fork pivot and slave cylinder rod

contact area © Release bearing interior collar (Do not

90967P83

Fig. 29 Also lubricate the release fork pivot points, and. . .

Fig. 30. . . the fork-to-release bearing contact surfaces. If the inner collar of the release bearing is metal, lubricate it and the guide tube. If the collar is plastic, do not lubricate, just clean it

>For specific clutch related information, refer to the clutch procedures in this section.

When removing or installing the transmis-

sion, keep the mating surfaces parallel with one another to avoid damaging the input shaft and/or bearing. 20. Install the transmission in position under the vehicle. While rotating the transmission output flange, push or pull on the gear selector shaft to put the transmission in gear. 21. Raise the transmission keeping the transmission and engine mating surfaces parallel to one another and align the input shaft with the clutch disk. 22. Once the input shaft is centered with the clutch disk center, move the transmission toward the engine while slowly rotating the transmission output flange back and forth until the input shaft engages with the clutch disk splines. 23. Carefully ease the transmission onto the engine making sure the dowels are properly aligned. Install a mounting fastener by hand on each side of the bell housing, alternately tightening each fastener no more than two turns at a time until the transmission is fully seated.

Do not force the transmission or the fasteners into position. If resistance is felt back off and make sure everything is properly aligned. 24. Install the engine-to-transmission fasteners, then the starter motor assembly. 25. Torque the hex head bolts as follows:

¢ M8 bolts: 16-19.5 ft. Ibs. (22-27 Nm) e M10 bolts: 34-37 ft. Ibs. (47-51 Nm) e M12 bolts: 48-59 ft. Ibs. (66-82 Nm) 26. Torque the Torx® head bolts as follows: ¢ M8 bolts: 14.5-17 ft. Ibs. (20-24 Nm) e M10 bolts: 27.5-34 ft. Ibs. (38-47 Nm) ¢ M12 bolts: 52-58 ft. Ibs. (70-80 Nm) 27. The balance of the assembly is in reverse order of removal noting the following tightening specifications: ¢ Transmission crossmember-to-body retainers: 31 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm) e M10 fasteners: 31 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm) ¢ M8 fasteners: 15 ft. Ibs. (21 Nm) 28. Driveshaft installation, refer to the installation procedures outlined in this section. 29. Check the transmission fluid level and top off as necessary with the proper lubricant.

|

i

7-8

DRIVE TRAIN

CLUTCH ¢ CAUTION The clutch disk contains asbestos, which causes some forms of lung disease and may be a cancer causing agent. Do not clean the clutch or housing with compressed air. Use a damp rag to wipe off surfaces and throw away the rag. Use commercial available brake cleaners if a solvent is necessary. Avoid inhaling any dust from the clutch surfaces.

Understanding the Clutch The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and connect engine power between the engine and transmission. A vehicle at rest requires a lot of engine torque to get all that weight moving. An internal combustion engine does not develop a high starting torque (unlike steam engines) so it must be allowed to operate without any load until it builds up enough torque to move the vehicle. To a point, torque increases with engine rpm. The clutch allows the engine to build up torque by physically disconnecting the engine from the transmission, relieving the engine of any load or resistance. The transfer of engine power to the transmission (the load) must be smooth and gradual; if it weren't, drive line components would wear out or break quickly. This gradual power transfer is made possible by gradually releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch disc and pressure plate are the connecting link between the engine and transmission. When the clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate contact each other (the clutch is engaged) physically joining the engine and transmission. When the pedal is pushed in, the disc and plate separate (the clutch is disengaged) disconnecting the engine from the transmission. Most clutch assemblies consists of the flywheel, the clutch disc, the clutch pressure plate, the throw out bearing and fork, the actuating linkage and the pedal. The flywheel and clutch pressure plate (driving members) are connected to the engine crankshaft and rotate with it. The clutch disc is located between the flywheel and pressure plate, and is splined to the transmission shaft. A driving member is one that is attached to the engine and transfers engine power to a driven member (clutch disc) on the transmission shaft. A driving member (pressure plate) rotates (drives) a driven member (clutch disc) on contact and, in so doing, turns the transmission shaft. There is a circular diaphragm spring within the pressure plate cover (transmission side). In a relaxed state (when the clutch pedal is fully released) this spring is convex; that is, it is dished outward toward the transmission. Pushing in the clutch pedal actuates the attached linkage. Connected to the other end of this is the throw out fork, which hold the throw out bearing. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch linkage pushes the fork and bearing forward to contact the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate. The outer edges of the spring are secured to the pressure plate and are pivoted on rings so that when the center of the spring is compressed by the throw out bearing, the outer edges bow outward and, by so doing, pull the pressure plate in the same direction — away from

the clutch disc. This action separates the disc from the plate, disengaging the clutch and allowing the transmission to be shifted into another gear. A coil type clutch return spring attached to the clutch pedal arm permits full release of the pedal. Releasing the pedal pulls the throw out bearing away from the diaphragm spring resulting in a reversal of spring position. As bearing pressure is gradually released from the spring center, the outer edges of the spring bow outward, pushing the pressure plate into closer contact with the clutch disc. As the disc and plate move closer together, friction between the two increases and slippage is reduced until, when full spring pressure is applied (by fully releasing the pedal) the speed of the disc and plate are the same. This stops all slipping, creating a direct connection between the plate and disc which results in the transfer of power from the engine to the transmission. The clutch disc is now rotating with the pressure plate at engine speed and, because it is splined to the transmission shaft, the shaft now turns at the same engine speed. The clutch is operating properly if:

1. It will stall the engine when released with the vehicle held stationary. 2. The shift lever can be moved freely between 1st and reverse gears when the vehicle is stationary and the clutch disengaged.

Clutch Pedal

3. Ifthe eccentric bolt cannot bring the pedal height to specification, there is a damaged part that needs replacing. E36 Models

There is no provision for pedal height adjustment. If the pedal height is incorrect, there is a damaged part that needs replacement. The height from the pedal to the firewall should be 10.23-10.63 inch (260-270mm).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove the lower trim from the dash panel. 2. Disconnect the clutch return spring. 3. Disconnect the master cylinder connection eccentric bolt. 4. Remove the shaft mounting nut and slide the pedal off the shaft. 5. Install the pedal and connect the master cylinder, return spring and the shaft nut. The dot on the eccentric bolts must align with master cylinder pushrod. Check the pedal height. 6. Torque the shaft nut to 20 ft. Ibs. (27 Nm). Torque the eccentric bolt nut to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm).

Driven Disc and Pressure Plate

CAUTION

HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT E30 Models

> See Figure 31 1. Measure from the clutch pedal to the firewall should be 9.96—10.39 inch (253-264mm). 2. Ifthe measurement is not correct, rotate the eccentric bolt at the master cylinder pushrod connection point. The dot on the bolt must be in line with the pushrod.

The clutch disk contains asbestos, which causes some forms of lung disease and may be a cancer causing agent. Do not clean the clutch or housing with compressed air. Use a damp rag to wipe off surfaces and throw away the rag. Use commercial available brake cleaners if a solvent is necessary. Avoid inhaling any dust from the clutch surfaces. e>The clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing and pilot bearing are considered normal wear items. If the clutch disk or pressure plate are worn/defective, all of these components should be replaced.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 28, 29, 30, 32 thru 40 e>Inspect the rear main/flywheel seal for leakage when accessing the clutch.

1. Remove the transmission as outlined in this section. 2. Place a suitable drain pan under the clutch assembly.

> CAUTION Eye protection should be worn at all times. The use of a protective breathing mask is 84277008

Fig. 31 Clutch pedal height measuring

point B—E30 models |

recommended. Use care, and do not allow exposed skin to come in contact with cleaning solvents or clutch dust. =

3. Clean the clutch assembly withan ap} brake cleaning fluid.

|

.

DRIVE TRAIN 4. Lock the flywheel in place using a suitable flywheel locking tool. 5. Insert, if available, a clutch alignment tool. 6. Matchmark the pressure plate to the flywheel. 7. Remove the clutch pressure plate fasteners evenly using a crisscross pattern, then remove the clutch pressure plate. If a clutch alignment tool is not being used, remove the pressure plate slowly to prevent the clutch disk from suddenly falling out of

ei

TCCS7126

Fig. 32 A pressure plate can be checked for flatness using a precision straight edge

and a 0.004 inch (0.10mm) feeler gauge

place. Make note of the clutch plate installation direction before removing to ensure proper reassembly. Some clutch disks can be installed backwards, however in doing so, will not allow adequate movement of the pressure plate fingers. If installed in this fashion, the clutch will not disengage! 8. Check the clutch driven disc for excessive wear or cracks. If the clutch disk’s hub has integral torsional dampening springs, as used with standard

.

f

7-9

one piece flywheels, check the springs for breakage and a tight fit. Replace the disk if the springs are loose, broken, or cracked. Dual mass flywheels use a Clutch disk with a solid hub and do not use damper springs, however both types of clutch disks should be inspected for spline wear and the rivets inspected for tightness. Replace the disk if the rivets are loose, if the splines are worn excessively, or if the inner hub shows signs of fatigue, cracking or looseness.

90967P46

Fig. 33 A clutch disk alignment tool shown installed through the clutch hub. Note the similarity of the alignment tool and. . .

Toward) flywheel z

;

Small diameter? collar

93137626

Fig. 35 The clutch disk must be installed properly to ensure proper operation. Some disks are stamped on the inner hub to denote the direction of installation

Fork retaining’clip!

Fig. 36 The clutch disk is checked for wear by measuring the distance from the head of the rivet to the surface lining. The disk should be replaced if the distance is 0.040

inches (1.0mm) or less

Fig. 37 The clutch fork retaining clip shown installed on the fork’s pivot with the fork removed

4,

el

Fig. 38 The clutch release fork is held in place by a small wire retaining clip. The release bearing slides onto the guide tube and into the fork

Fig. 39 The clutch alignment tool shown holding the disk in place with the pressure

plate removed

Fig. 40 With the alignment tool installed, torque the fasteners using a crisscross pattern. A click-type torque wrench works well in this application

7-10

DRIVE TRAIN

Clutch disk lining wear limit as measured from the head of the rivet to the lining surface: e Minimum thickness: 0.04 inches (1.0mm) 9. Check the flywheel and pressure plate to make sure they afé not scored, cracked, or burned, even at a small spot. Use a straight edge and a feeler gauge to make sure the contact surface is true. Replace any defective parts. Signs of bluing on the pressure plate or flywheel are indicators of excessive heat, usually caused by excessive clutch slippage. If bluing has occurred on the pressure plate it must be replaced as the spring’s clamping force has been compromised and even with a new clutch disk installed, clutch plate slippage and/or premature failure is likely to occur. To install: e>When replacing the clutch disk, the pressure plate and release bearing should also be replaced. Sometimes these components can be purchased as a clutch kit, with a substantial cost savings.

Avoid using rebuilt or resurfaced clutch components on BMW vehicles. The tolerances of these components are critical to their operation and longevity. 10. Clean as necessary and inspect the following items before reassembling the clutch. Replace worn or damaged components as necessary:

e Clutch lining wear Flywheel surface condition Rear main/flywheel oil seal Transmission input shaft seal

Clutch pressure plate surface condition Flywheel starter ring gear tooth damage Clutch fork, check for cracks or excessive wear Clutch pilot bearing, check for binding and looseness Clutch hub wear, and if used, damper spring condition Clutch release bearing, check for binding and looseness Clutch pressure plate mounting fasteners, replace on S50 engines Dual mass flywheels, inspect the viscous coupling as outlined in this section. >On $50 engines, the pressure plate mounting bolts must be replaced.

The clutch pressure plate mounting fasteners must be a matched set otherwise the engine’s balance may be upset. If one fastener is damaged or lost, replace all the fasteners as a set. If the flywheel is removed, the flywheel fasteners must be replaced. >On $14 engines, the pressure plate mounting bolts and taper sleeve must be replaced.

11. Make sure the friction surfaces of the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate are clean and dry. If the “Tlywheel, or pressure plate are to be replaced, make sure the protective coatings are properly removed

as recommended by the manufacturer. Often times these components are packaged and wrapped with an oiled cloth and/or a protective coating to prevent rusting during shipping and storage. 12. Install a clutch alignment tool through the splines of the clutch disk and place the disk against the flywheel, then slide the alignment tool into the pilot bearing to hold the disk in place. Make sure the disk is installed in the correct direction.

A clutch alignment tool should be used when assembling the clutch. Proper align-

ment of the clutch splines and the pilot bearing is critical for the input shaft of the transmission to slide into position without binding or damage. 13. If the flywheel was removed or replaced, make sure it is installed properly, and if equipped, the speed and reference mark sensors are properly installed.

If the vehicle is equipped with a flywheel that uses speed and reference sensors, make sure they are properly installed and not damaged, otherwise the engine management system may not function upon reassembly. 14. Install a flywheel locking tool to prevent the flywheel from rotating. 15, Place the pressure plate against the clutch disk and flywheel, making sure the mounting holes are properly aligned. 16. Initially install the fasteners by hand turning them at least four complete revolutions in a crisscross pattern. On S50 engines, the pressure plate mounting bolts must be replaced. On S14 engines, the pressure plate mounting bolts and taper sleeve must be replaced. 17. Continue tightening the fasteners evenly in a crisscross pattern while holding the clutch alignment tool centered. Even with an alignment tool installed, the free-play in the release bearing and the weight of the clutch disk is enough to allow a slight amount of misalignment. 18. Once the fasteners begin to apply tension to the pressure plate, slide the clutch alignment tool in and out to check for excessive drag. If excessive draq is felt the clutch disk is not uniformly aligned and it must be moved slightly until the tool can be removed and installed easily. If necessary, back the clutch pressure plate fasteners off to relieve the tension so the clutch disk can be moved slightly. 19. Torque the fasteners in a crisscross pattern as follows: e M8 8.8: 18 ft. Ibs. (24 Nm) e M8 10.9: 25 ft. Ibs. (34 Nm) e S14 M8 10.9: 25 ft. Ibs. (34 Nm) 20. Slide the clutch alignment tool in and out to recheck for excessive drag and correct as necessary. 21. Coat the following with a light coating of an approved high temperature grease. e The transmission input shaft splines e Release bearing-to-fork contact area e Release fork pivot and slave cylinder actu-

ation rod contact area

e Release bearing interior collar and sliding sleeve (Do not grease these if the collar is plastic, clean only before assembly) 22. Install the release fork onto the transmission, making sure the retaining clip is properly fastened onto the grooved shaft of pivot ball, and clamped around the release fork. 23. Slide the release bearing onto the guide tube and center it in the release fork. 24. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of removal, noting the following: 25. Keep the mating surfaces of the transmission and engine parallel with one another as the transmission is installed. 26. If necessary, put the transmission in gear and move the output drive flange until the transmission input shaft aligns with the clutch hub. 27. Check and top off all fluid levels as necessary.

ADJUSTMENTS Clutch adjustment is not possible. The clutch hydraulic system automatically adjusts for clutch wear. If the clutch does not disengage check the following: e Check for air in the clutch hydraulic system ¢ Check for a deteriorated flexible clutch hydraulic line e Check for a bent, broken or cracked clutch release fork e Check for a damaged or seized clutch disk or pilot bearing e Check for an excessive oil or coolant leak near the clutch assembly If the clutch slips: e Check for a worn clutch disk and/or pressure plate

e Check for an internally restricted clutch hydraulic line e Check for an excessive oil leak near the clutch assembly e Check for fluid contamination in the clutch hydraulic system

Flywheel Inspection e>Inspect the rear main/flywheel seal for leakage when inspecting the flywheel. Replace as necessary. Refer to Section 3 for replacement procedures.

SURFACE INSPECTION > See Figures 41, 42 and 43 e>For flywheel removal and installation procedures, please refer to Section 3.

The flywheel should be inspected for: e Ring gear damage e Fluid contamination e Warpage flatness and thickness variations e lf equipped, speed and reference sensor damage ¢ Surface irregularities, such as scoring, cracking, and signs of overheating If a flywheel’s clutch surface shows signs of deterioration or wear it should be replaced.Sera P symptoms of an improper flywheel k include clutch chatter raleng

DRIVE TRAIN

~ 90967P54

90947P53

Fig. 41 The surface irregularities of this flywheel shows signs of constant overheating of its surface and should be replaced

7-11

Fig. 42 Although this flywheel shows signs of a significant amount of use, the surface wear is relatively uniform and could be reused

TCCS7125

Fig. 43 A flywheel can be checked for flatness using a precision straight edge and a 0.004 inch (0.10mm) feeler gauge

90967P41

90967P40

Fig. 44 The flywheel is moved clockwise and matchmarked

lf the rear main/flywheel seal is leaking, or the flywheel needs to be replaced, it should be replaced at this time as outlined in Section 3. An oil saturated clutch disk can cause clutch slippage, burning odors and poor disengagement and engagement qualities.

DUAL MASS FLYWHEELS » See Figures 44 and 45 A viscous coupling dual mass flywheel was installed on the E36 models to reduce the noise created by gear box chatter when the vehicle is idling in neutral. The viscous coupling of the flywheel can be checked with the pressure plate installed or removed, however when installed, the pressure plate offers a good surface to hold onto. To check the viscous coupling proceed as follows.

ok: CAUTION The clutch disk contains asbestos, which Causes some forms of lung disease and may be a cancer causing agent. Do not clean the clutch or housing with compressed air. Use a damp rag to wipe off surfaces and throw away the rag. Use commercial available _brake cleaners if a solvent is necessary.

Fig. 45 Then the flywheel is moved counterclockwise and matchmarked again to determine the range of movement. It should move between these two points, without binding or looseness

1. Place a protective cloth over the pressure plate, grasp and rotate the pressure plate in a clockwise direction until the flywheel barely begins to move. 2. Matchmark the pressure plate and the outer body of the flywheel. 3. Grasp and rotate the pressure plate in a counterclockwise direction until the flywheel barely begins to move. 4, Matchmark the pressure plate and the outer body of the flywheel. 5. The pressure plate should be able to be moved between the two matchmarks without excessive force or looseness.

Pilot Bearing The pilot bearing is located in the end of the crankshaft and supports the end of the transmission input shaft to keep it in alignment. If the pilot bearing seizes, the clutch will not disengage properly and the transmission will grind when placed into gear or not shift into gear at all. Sometimes what are thought to be transmission problems can be cured with a new pilot bearing, if the bearing is found to be seized or sticking. It is always a good idea to replace the pilot bearing along with the clutch and release bearing. ifthe pilot bearing is a sealed roller bearing, it cannot be serviced. If defective, damaged or worn, it must be replaced. —

INSPECTION With the clutch pressure plate and clutch disk removed, the pilot bearing’s inner race is easily accessible. Grasp the inner race and check for excessive play. Rotate the inner race and check for any roughness or binding. The inner race should move freely with a slight bit of resistance. If no resistance is felt the grease in the bearing has most likely exceeded its useful service life or its ability to lubricate has broken down through a combination of time and heat, and the bearing should be replaced. Replace the pilot bearing if any one of the following symptoms are noticed: e If excessively loose e If roughness or binding is felt e lf physically damaged or rusty e lf, when the inner race is moved, no resistance is felt e [Ifthe flywheel shows signs of bluing (signs of excessive heat) e>The pilot bearing is considered a normal wear item and should be replaced anytime the clutch disk and pressure plate are replaced.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 46 thru 52 1. Remove the transmission and clutch assembly as outlined in this section. 2. Use a small bore inside bearing puller

7-12

DRIVE TRAIN

attached to a small slide hammer to remove the bearing from the end of the crankshaft. If installed, note the order of washers and spacers during removal. 3. Clean the bore in the crankshaft of the old grease and debris. 4. If the bearing is not sealed on both sides, to reuse, clean with brake cleaner and inspect the bearing. Replace as necessary. Before installing the cleaned or new bearing, lubricate it with 1 gram of an approved grease. 5. Drive the bearing into the end of the crankshaft using a suitable bearing driver, or, install a

~ 90967P53 Fig. 46 Use an inside bearing puller attachment and a slide hammer to remove the bearing from the end of the crankshaft

socket that is slightly smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing backwards onto a 6 inch (150mm) extension. Drive the bearing evenly into the crankshaft bore using a soft faced hammer. 6. If equipped, install the washers and spacers onto the crankshaft. Clean any excess grease from the surrounding area. 7. Install the clutch and transmission assemblies.

Clutch Master Cylinder The clutch master and slave cylinders should be replaced as a pair. If one unit fails, the other usually will fail soon after.

5. Disconnect the line to the slave cylinder and the fluid fill line going to the top of the master cylinder. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the master cylinder from the firewall. To install: 6. Install the clutch master cylinder in position. Make sure all bushings remain in position. 7. Tighten the master cylinder mounting bolts

to 6.5 ft. Ibs. (9 Nm). 8. Tighten the fluid connections to 12 ft. Ibs. (16 Nm). 9. Fill and bleed the system.

Slave Cylinder

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the necessary trim panel or carpet. 2. Disconnect the pushrod at the clutch pedal. 3. Remove the cap on the reservoir tank. On some vehicles, there is a clutch master cylinder reservoir, while on others there is a common reservoir shared with the brake master cylinder. Remove the float container, if equipped. Remove the screen and remove enough brake fluid from the tank until the level drops below the connection for the filler pipe. 4. Remove the lower/left instrument panel trim. Then, remove the retaining nut from the end of the master cylinder actuating rod where the bolt passes through the pedal mechanism.

The clutch master and slave cylinders should be replaced as a pair. If one unit fails, the other usually will fail soon after. Never depress the clutch pedal while the slave cylinder is dismounted.

1. Remove enough brake fluid from the reservoir until the level drops below the refill line connection. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. Place a suitable drain pan under the slave cylinder. 4. Using a flare nut wrench loosen, but do not remove, the fluid line.

90967P49

90967P48

90967P47

Fig. 47 Pull lightly on the end of the slide hammer’s shaft and pull back on the striker using a series small sharp strokes

Fig. 48 Carefully remove the bearing from the end of the crankshaft

Fig. 49 A close up view of the pullers’ jaws. The spindle of the slide hammer is threaded into the attachment and preloads the jaws

90967P51

Fig. 50 Rotate the inner race to check the release bearing condition. This can be also done without removing the bearing

Fig. 51 To install the bearing, socket that is slightly smaller side diameter of the bearing. socket onto a 6 inch (150mm)

backwards

select a than the outInstall the extension

Fig. 52 Use a soft faced hammer or mallet and drive the bearing evenly into the crankshaft

DRIVE TRAIN SS

ET

SS

5. Remove the retaining bolts and pull the slave cylinder down. 6. Remove the line from the slave cylinder. To install: 7. Install the slave cylinder on the transmission. On engines equipped with the dual mass flywheel, make sure a larger cylinder with a diameter of 0.874 inch (22.2mm) is used, instead of the usual diameter 0.812 inch (20.64mm) cylinder. 8. Tighten the slave cylinder bolts to 17 ft. Ibs.

(24 Nm). 9. Tighten the fluid connections to 12 ft. Ibs. (16 Nm). 10. Make sure to install the cylinder with the bleed screw facing down. When installing the front pushrod, coat it with the proper high temperature grease. 11. Bleed the system.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING > See Figures 53 and 54 The clutch and brake hydraulics use an approved DOT 4 brake fluid in their systems. The hydraulic system should be bled periodically, usually a minimum of every two years, or more often under severe use. Brake fluid can absorb moisture. Because condensation is heavier than brake fluid, and under normal conditions, will not mix with it, the sediment and condensation tend to collect in the slave cylinder and in the bottom of the master cylinder reserVoir. lf possible, before bleeding the system, use a siphon gun or a cooking baster to remove the old fluid, or remove the reservoir and flush it using a recommended brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol. If necessary, the reservoir can be flushed while removed from the vehicle using lightly pressurized water, however the reservoir must be flushed with

ETE

TS

ELITE EEELE

TE

ST

brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol and dried completely before installation. There are a number of brake hydraulic bleeders available that use vacuum to “pull” the fluid through the hydraulic system. The advantage these tools offer is that the system can be bled without the help of an assistant.

3 CAUTION Bleeding or flushing the clutch hydraulic system with dirty or contaminated fluid may result in component damage. 90961P18

When bleeding a clutch hydraulic system, always observe to following guidelines: e Never reuse brake fluid ¢ Always bleed the system using fresh fluid ¢ Do not use fluid which has been left uncapped e Use a recommended fluid which is compatible with the existing fluid 1. Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. 2. Fita flare or box end wrench onto the slave cylinder bleeder screw. 3. Attach a (clear if available) rubber tube to the slave cylinder bleed screw and suspend it into a suitable clear drain container partially filled with brake fluid. 4. Open the bleeder screw and have an assistant press the clutch pedal to the floor. 5. While holding the clutch pedal to the floor, close the bleed screw.

Fig. 53 On E36 models, the hydraulic clutch system shares the reservoir that is mounted on the brake master cylinder

6. Slowly release the clutch pedal to its fullest

attachment (shown bleeding the brakes here) eliminate the need for a helper. These units are available from automotive vendors

93139P24

Fig. 54 A vacuum tester and a bleeding

extension and recheck the reservoir fluid level. Top

off as necessary. 7. Repeat the above steps until the fluid exiting the bleed screw is clean and free of all air bubbles. 8. Top off the clutch master cylinder reservoir as necessary.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Understanding the Automatic Transmission

mele

> See Figure 55 The automatic transmission allows engine torque and power to be transmitted to the rear wheels within a narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will allow the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty of power and torque at very low speeds, while keeping it at a sensible rpm at high vehicle speeds (and it does this job without driver assistance). The transmission uses a light fluid as the medium for the transmission of power. This fluid also works in the operation of various hydraulic control circuits and as a lubricant. Because the transmission fluid performs all of these functions, trouble within the unit can easily travel from one part to another. For this reason, and because of the complexity and unusual operating principles of the transmission, a very sound understanding of the basic principles of operation will simplify trouble-

shooting.

7-13 TE

ass

Ae =

a!

jellDl

mana

1. Drive plate 2. Converter lockup clutch 3. Torque converter P. Impeller R. Stator T. Turbine

R 7. Clutch C

8, Clutch D 9. Planetary gearset

=

‘aS

10. Planetary gearset, fourth gear 11. Clutch E 12, Clutch F

Fig. 55 Components of the ZF 4HP-22 transmission

ES

14. 15. 16. 17.

One-way One-way One-way One-way

clutch clutch clutch clutch

7-14

DRIVE TRAIN

TORQUE CONVERTER > See Figure 56 The torque converter replaces the conventional clutch. It has three functions: 1. Itallows the engine to idle with the vehicle at a standstill, even with the transmission in gear. 2. It allows the transmission to shift from range-to-range smoothly, without requiring that the driver close the throttle during the shift. 3. It multiplies engine torque to an increasing extent as vehicle speed drops and throttle opening is increased. This has the effect of making the transmission more responsive and reduces the amount of shifting required. The torque converter is a metal case which is shaped like a sphere that has been flattened on opposite sides. It is bolted to the rear end of the engine's crankshaft. Generally, the entire metal case rotates at engine speed and serves as the engine's flywheel. The case contains three sets of blades. One set is attached directly to the case. This set forms the torus or pump. Another set is directly connected to the output shaft, and forms the turbine. The third set is mounted on a hub which, in turn, is mounted on a Stationary shaft through a one-way clutch. This third set is known as the stator. A pump, which is driven by the converter hub at engine speed, keeps the torque converter full of transmission fluid at all times. Fluid flows continuously through the unit to provide cooling. Under low speed acceleration, the torque converter functions as follows: The torus is turning faster than the turbine. It picks up fluid at the center of the converter and, through centrifugal force, slings it outward. Since the outer edge of the converter moves faster than the portions at the center, the fluid picks up speed. The fluid then enters the outer edge of the turbine blades. It then travels back toward the center of the converter case along the turbine blades. In impinging upon the turbine blades, the fluid loses the energy picked up in the torus. Ifthe fluid was now returned directly into the torus, both halves of the converter would have to turn at approximately the same speed at all times, and torque input and output would both be the same. In flowing through the torus and turbine, the fluid picks up two types of flow, or flow in two separate

directions. It flows through the turbine blades, and it spins with the engine. The stator, whose blades are stationary when the vehicle is being accelerated at low speeds, converts one type of flow into another. Instead of allowing the fluid to flow straight back into the torus, the stator's curved blades turn the fluid almost 90° toward the direction of rotation of the engine. Thus the fluid does not flow as fast toward the torus, but is already spinning when the torus picks it up. This has the effect of allowing the torus to turn much faster than the turbine. This difference in speed may be compared to the difference in speed between the smaller and larger gears in any gear train. The result is that engine power output is higher, and engine torque is multiplied. As the speed of the turbine increases, the fluid spins faster and faster in the direction of engine rotation. As a result, the ability of the stator to redirect the fluid flow is reduced. Under cruising conditions, the stator is eventually forced to rotate on its one-way clutch in the direction of engine rotation. Under these conditions, the torque converter begins to behave almost like a solid shaft, with the torus and turbine speeds being almost equal.

SUN GEAR DRIVES

RING GEAR HELD

PLANET CARRIER DRIVEN TCCS7013

Fig. 58 Planetary gears in the maximum reduction (low) range. The ring gear is

held and a lower gear ratio is obtained

SUN GEAR HELD

PLANETARY GEARBOX > See Figures 57, 58 and 59 The ability of the torque converter to multiply engine torque is limited. Also, the unit tends to be more efficient when the turbine is rotating at relatively high speeds. Therefore, a planetary gearbox is used to carry the power output of the turbine to the driveshaft. Planetary gears function very similarly to conventional transmission gears. However, their construction is different in that three elements make up one gear system, and, in that all three elements are different from one another. The three elements are: an outer gear that is shaped like a hoop, with teeth cut into the inner surface; a sun gear, mounted on a shaft and located at the very center of the outer gear; and a set of three planet gears, held by pins in a ring-like planet carrier, meshing with both the sun gear and the outer gear. Either the outer gear or the sun gear may be held stationary, providing more than one possible torque multiplication factor for each set of gears. Also, if all three gears are forced to rotate at the same speed, the gearset forms, in effect, a solid shaft. Most automatics use the planetary gears to pro-

RING GEAR DRIVES

PLANET CARRIER DRIVEN TCCS7014

Fig. 59 Planetary gears in the minimum reduction (drive) range. The ring gear is allowed to revolve, providing a higher

gear ratio

vide various reductions ratios. Bands and clutches are used to hold various portions of the gearsets to the transmission case or to the shaft on which they are mounted. Shifting is accomplished, then, by changing the portion of each planetary gearset which is held to the transmission case or to the shaft.

SERVOS AND ACCUMULATORS » See Figure 60

PLANET PINIONS

PLANET PLANET. RING OR INTERNAL GEAR

TURBINE SHAFT

TCCS7011

Fig. 56 The torque converter housing is rotated by the engine’s crankshaft, and turns the impeller—The impeller then spins the turbine, which gives motion to the turbine shaft, driving the gears

TCCS7012

Fig. 57 Planetary gears work in a similar fashion to manual transmission gears, but

are composed of three parts hie

ep

The servos are hydraulic pistons and cylinders. They resemble the hydraulic actuators used on many other machines, such as bulldozers. Hydraulic fluid enters the cylinder, under pressure, and forces the piston to move to engage the band or clutches. The accumulators are used to cushion the engagement of the servos. The transmission fluid must pass through the accumulator on the way to the servo. The accumulator housing contains a thin piston which is sprung away from the discharge passage of the accumulator. When fluid

passes through the accumulator on the servo, it must move the piston again pressure, and this action smoothe: of the servo. a

way to tr

DRIVE TRAIN

7-15

TA,nc a

= if

SERVO BODY

RELEASE SPRING TCCS7015

Fig. 60 Servos, operated by pressure, are

used to apply or release the bands, to either hold the ring gear or allow it to rotate

HYDRAULIC CONTROL SYSTEM

2. 3. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Sealing plate Nut Screw Shift gate Bolt Washer Shifter lever Push button Spring Stud

The hydraulic pressure used to operate the servos comes from the main transmission oil pump. This fluid is channeled to the various servos through the shift valves. There is generally a manual shift valve which is operated by the transmission selector lever and an automatic shift valve for each automatic upshift the transmission provides. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17, 18.

e>Many new transmissions are electronically controlled. On these models, electrical solenoids are used to better control the hydraulic fluid. Usually, the solenoids are regulated by an electronic control module.

There are two pressures which affect the operation of these valves. One is the governor pressure which is effected by vehicle speed. The other is the modulator pressure which is effected by intake manifold vacuum or throttle position. Governor pressure rises with an increase in vehicle speed, and modulator pressure rises as the throttle is opened wider. By responding to these two pressures, the shift valves cause the upshift points to be delayed with increased throttle opening to make the best use of the engine's power output. Most transmissions also make use of an auxiliary circuit for downshifting. This circuit may be actuated by the throttle linkage the vacuum line which actuates the modulator, by a cable or by a solenoid. It applies pressure to a special downshift surface on the shift valve or valves. The transmission modulator also governs the line pressure, used to actuate the servos. In this way, the clutches and bands will be actuated with a force matching the torque output of the engine.

Fluid Pan Please refer to the Pan Removal and Filter Service procedures in Section 1.

Shifter Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION _» See Figures 61 and 62

1. Remove the center console. On E36 models, ch is accessible through the opening and

Pin Handle Selector lever Transmission switch Pull rod Bearing bush

19. Shim 20. Nut

22. Lock

23. 24. 25. 26.

Pivot bush Shaft Nut Selector lever bracket

27. Selector rod

28. Spring clip 29. Bush 30. Screw 84277017

Fig. 61 Shifter assembly—E30 models

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

Console Insulator Screw Nut Bearing shaft Cotter pin Switch Washer Screw Selector lever Pull rod Handle

13. Bolt 14, Cable 15. Nut 16. 18. 19. 20. 21.

Cover Holder Washer Bolt Lever

22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27.

Nut Clamping bolt Washer Nut Sleeve Washer

7-16 ER

DRIVE TRAIN AFORE

ES

IR

TEES

BSS OE CS RE

OSE

2. Disconnect the switch plug and remove the shifter mounting bolts. 3. Remove the shifter and disconnect the light wire and the shift lever. 4. Remove the switch mounting screws and remove the switch. 5. Install the switch, lever, light wire and shifter. Connect the shift rod or cable and adjust. Install the console.

Shifter Cable

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the cable from the shifter and the bracket. 3. Disconnect the cable from the transmission arm and bracket. 4. Pull the cable out from inside the vehicle.

5. Install the cable and adjust.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the output flange and support with wire. 2. Counterhold the output flange and remove the nut. Pull off the output flange. 3. Use a seal puller to remove the seal. 4. Install the new seal with the lip facing in. Use a seal driver to install. 5. Install the output flange and torque the nut to 72 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm). Install the driveshaft.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Bf

’

OEE LPNS TEE

SE

ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove the 3mm hex head fastener from the gear selector knob and remove the knob. 2. Carefully release the gear selector. housing

cover from the console. 3. Loosen the neutral safety switch mounting fasteners. 4. Align the slot of the switch with the slot of the switch housing. 5. Move the gear selector as necessary to engage the pin into the slots of the switch. 6. Tighten the switch mounting fasteners. 7. Install the trim covers. 8. Install the gear selector’s release button such that the pin is installed into the hole on the gear selector linkage and install the gear selector knob onto the selector shaft.

Extension Housing Output Seal

1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the output flange and support with wire. 2. Counterhold the output flange and remove the nut. Pull off the output flange. 3. Use a seal puller to remove the seal. 4. Install the new seal with the lip facing in. Use a seal driver to install. 5. Install the output flange and torque the nut to 72 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm). Install the driveshaft.

Automatic Transmission

Assembly

>To perform this operation, a support for the transmission, BMW Tool No. 24 0 120 and 00 2 020 or equivalent and a tool for tightening the driveshaft locking ring, BMW Tool No. 26 1 040 or equivalent, are required.

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Loosen the throttle cable adjusting nuts, release the cable tension, and disconnect the cable at the throttle lever. Then, remove (and retain) the nuts, and pull the cable housing out of the bracket. 2. Disconnect the exhaust system at the manifold and hangers and lower it aside. Remove the hanger that runs across under the driveshaft. Remove the exhaust heat shield from under the center of the vehicle. 3. On the 325ixX, remove the transfer case from the rear of the transmission.

4. Drain the transmission oil and discard it.

Remove the oil filler neck. Disconnect the oil cooler lines at the transmission by unscrewing the flare nuts and plug the open connections. 5. Support the transmission with the proper tools. Separate the torque converter housing from the transmission by removing the Torx® bolts with the proper too! from behind and the regular bolts from underneath. Retain the washers used with the Torx® bolts.

.

i

LES REE

E30 Models

The back-up light switch is part of the neutral safety switch located inside the gear selector trim cover. 1. Remove the 3mm hex head fastener from the gear selector knob and remove the knob. 2. Carefully release the gear selector housing cover from the console. 3. Remove the neutral safety switch electrical connector by squeezing the retaining clips and detaching the connector. 4. Remove the neutral safety switch mounting fasteners. 5. Move the gear selector until the selector’s pin aligns with the small slot in the switch and lift the switch upward to remove. To install: 6. Align the slot of the switch with the slot of the switch housing. 7. Move the gear selector as necessary to engage the pin into the slots of the switch. 8. Install the switch mounting fasteners. 9. Install the trim covers. 10. Install the gear selector’s release button such that the pin is installed into the hole on the gear selector linkage and install the gear selector = knob onto the selector shaft.

*

SE

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Neutral Safety Switch

ye ae

TESTE STI.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Rear Output Seal

?

ETE

eer

ah

REIS ET LE

SD

DES

a

6. On the 325iX, disconnect the front driveshaft. 7. Remove bolts attaching the torque converter housing to the engine, making sure to retain the spacer used behind one of the bolts. Then, loosen the mounting bolts for the oil level switch just enough so the plate can be removed while pushing the switch mounting bracket to one side. 8. Remove the bolts attaching the torque converter to the drive plate. Turn the flywheel as necessary to gain access to each of the bolts, which are spaced at equal intervals around it. Make sure to re-use the same bolts and retain the washers. 9. To remove the speed and reference mark sensors, remove the attaching bolt for each and remove each sensor. Keep the sensors clean. 10. Turn the bayonet type electrical connector counterclockwise and then pull the plug out of the socket. Then, lift the wiring harness out of the harness bails. 11. Support the transmission using the proper jack. Then, remove the crossmember that supports the transmission at the rear. 12. Disconnect the transmission shift rod. Then, remove the nuts and then the through bolts from the damper-type U-joint at the front of the transmission. 13. Unscrew the driveshaft spline locking ring at the center mount, if equipped, using the special tool designed for this purpose. Then, remove the bolts and remove the center mount. Bend the driveshaft downward and pull it off the centering pin. Suspend it with wire from the underside of the vehicle. 14. Lower the transmission as far as possible. Then, remove all the Torx® or standard type bolts attaching the transmission to the engine: 15. Remove the small grill from the bottom of the transmission. Then press the converter off with a large prybar passing through this opening while Sliding the transmission out. To install: 16. Install the transmission in position under the vehicle and raise it into position. Observe the following points: ; a. Make sure the converter is fully installed onto the transmission—so the ring on the front is inside the edge of the case. Only use M10x16mm bolts as originally equipped or damage will occur. b. When reinstalling the driveshaft, tighten the lockring with the proper tool. c. Make sure to replace the self-locking nuts on the driveshaft flexible joint and to hold the

bolts still while tightening the nuts to keep from distorting it. d. When installing the center mount, preload itforward from its most natural position 0.157-0.236 inches (46mm). e. When reconnecting the bayonet type electrical connector, make sure the alignment marks are aligned after the plug ittwisted into its final position. , :

f. When reinstalling the spéed and reference

DRIVE TRAIN Ee

BN

EE

EU EV TIS SETS

ET

EN

PLOT LT SST

g. Torque the crossmember mounting bolts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (21-23 Nm). h. If O-rings are used with the transmission oil cooler connections, replace them. i. Adjust the throttle cables.

TOS PITTETEETS TO CII I2 LEE TIE

DT EePE

RES

RSE RY IR

7-17 PS!

ADJUSTMENTS

4. Torque the shift lever bolt to 7—9 ft. Ibs. (10—12 Nm).

Shift Linkage Cable

Shift Linkage Rod

» See Figure 63

» See Figure 64

ay Place the gear selector lever in the P posi-

E36 Models

ERIE TUNE SAVE

1. Disconnect the shift rod from the shifter lever

; 2. From under the vehicle, hold the bolt on the end of the transmission mounted shift lever

2. Place the shifter int h mission lever into ais sadseaes inset: 3. Press the shifter forward against the neutral

On 325i and 328i models with M50 or M52

with Tool No. 245 210 or equivalent to prevent

gate lockout and adjust the shifterrod to fit into the

intake manifold throttle body must be

bolt.

ter cylinder reservoir when the transmission

_—_‘forward while pushing the cable rearwards.

engines, and equipped with ASC + T, the

the cable from being damaged. Loosen the

removed to avoid damaging the brake mas-

ae

3. Push the transmission mounted shift lever

shifter lever.

4. Shorten the shift rod effective length by

screwing in the shift rod pin 1-2 turns. Attach the pin to the lever.

is lowered. 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Drain the transmission fluid and discard. Do not reuse the old oil. Remove the exhaust system. 2. Mark the mounted position of the crossmember under the driveshaft, the remove. 3. Disconnect the driveshaft from the output flange of the transmission. Loosen the driveshaft spline lockring and remove the center support from the floorpan. Position the driveshaft out of the way and support with wire. 4. Disconnect the shifter cable from the transmission and bracket. Detach the connectors from the transmission and the speed sender. 5. Pull out the access plug from the side of the case to reach the torque converter mounting bolts. Use Tool No. 24 1 110 or equivalent to remove the bolts. 6. Place a transmission jack under the transmission and support. Disconnect the oxygen sensor cable and remove the transmission crossmember. Disconnect the oil cooler lines and clamps. 7. Remove the bolts from the transmission to engine joint. Pull the transmission back with the torque converter and lower. To install: 8. Check the condition of the dowel sleeves and flexplate. 9. Align the torque converter and the flexplate. Place the transmission into position and bolt to the engine. With hex head bolts, torque the M8 bolts to 17 ft. Ibs. (24 Nm), the M10 bolts to 33 ft. Ibs. (45 Nm) and the M12 bolts to 57—62 ft. Ibs. (78 —86 Nm). With Torx® bolts, torque the

1. Shift selector 2. Transmission lever nut 3. Transmission lever 4. Shifter cable

84277012

Fig. 63 Place the shifter into this position for adjustment

1. Shift rod 2. Shifter lever 3. Transmission lever 4, Shifter 5. Shift gate neutral lockout 6. Shift rod pin

M8 bolts to 15 ft. Ibs. (21 Nm), the M12 bolts to

52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm).

10. Torque the M10x16mm toque converter bolts to 33 ft. Ibs. (45 Nm) with Tool No. 24 1 110 or equivalent. 11. Install the oil cooler lines after checking the _.condition of the O-rings. Install the crossmember and wiring connections. 12. Connect the shifter cable and adjust. Install _ the driveshaft. Preload the center bearing 0.157— 0.236 in (4—6mm) forward. Torque the flange bolts

TSS Lea

~ to 59ft.Ibs. (81 Nm). After completing the installa-

oon.torque the spline locking ring to 12 ft. Ibs. (17

13, Install the crossmember over the driveshaft in original mounting position. Install the exhaust m and splashguards,Fill thetransmission and

.Connectthenegative battery termi-

es

7-18

DRIVE TRAIN

Throttle Linkage

> See Figures 65 and 66 1. On the injection system throttle body, loosen the 2 locknuts at the end of the throttle cable and adjust the cable until there is a play of 0.010-0.030 inches (0.25-0.76mm).

2. Loosen the locknut and lower the kickdown stop under the accelerator pedal. Have someone depress the accelerator pedal until the transmission detent can be felt. Then, back the kickdown stop

back out until it just touches the pedal. 3. Check that the distance from the seal at the throttle body end of the cable housing is at least 1.732 inch (44mm) from the rear end of the threaded sleeve. If this dimension checks out, tighten all the locknuts.

84277014

Fig. 65 Throttle cable adjustment measurement point at S—E30 models

84277016

Fig. 66 Throttle cable shown at the kickdown detent

TRANSFER CASE Rear/Front Output Seal REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the output flange and support with wire.

2. Counterhold the output flange and remove the nut. Pull off the output flange. 3. Use a seal puller to remove the seal. To install: 4. Install the new seal with the lip facing in. Use a seal driver to install. 5. Install the output flange, coat the output flange nut with Lock-tite® 270 and torque the nut to 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm). Install the driveshaft.

Transfer Case Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 325iX Models

WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION >To perform this procedure, a special, large wrench that locks onto flats on alternate sides of a section of the rear driveshaft is required.

Use Tool No. 26 1 060 or an equivalent. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the exhaust system. Unbolt and remove the exhaust system heat shields located behind and below the transfer case. 2. Unscrew the rear section of the driveshaft at the sliding joint located behind the output flange of the transfer case. 3. Hold the through-bolts stationary and remove the self-locking nuts from in front of the flexible coupling at the transfer case output flange.

Discard all the self-locking nuts and replace them. During the next step, be careful not to let the driveshaft rest on the metal fuel line that Crosses under it or the line could be damaged.

4. Slide the sections of the driveshaft together at the sliding joint and then pull the front of the ~~ driveshaft off the centering pin at the transmission output shaft.

5. Remove the nuts and through bolts from the flexible coupling linking the transmission output flange with the short driveshaft linking the transmission and the transfer case. 6. Support the transmission from underneath in a secure manner. Then, mark each of the 4 bolts fastening the crossmember that supports the transmission at the rear to the body, bolts are of different lengths. Remove the crossmember. 7. Lower the transmission/transfer case unit just enough to gain access to the bolts linking the 2 boxes together. Remove the 2 lower and 2 upper bolts. It is possible to gain access to the upper bolts using a socket wrench with a U-joint and extension. 8. There is a protective cap on the forward driveshaft where it links up with the transfer case. The cap is made of a brittle material, so it must be handled carefully. Gently slide the cap forward until is free of the transfer case. 9. Slide the transfer case to the rear so it can be separated from both the transmission and the forward driveshaft. When it is free, remove it. To install: 10. Install the transfer case under the vehicle and raise it into position, bearing the following points in mind: a. Inspect the dowel holes locating the transfer case with the transmission and the guide hole for the output shaft where it slides into the transfer case to make sure these parts will be properly located. Lubricate the guide pin and the splines of the front driveshaft section with grease. b. When fitting the transfer case onto the transmission, check to make sure the output flange of the transmission is properly aligned ~ with the flexible coupling. Put the through-bolts through the flexible coupling and then install and torque the nuts to 66 ft. Ibs. (88 Nm) while holding the bolts stationary, rather than turning them. c. When reconnecting the transfer case to the gearbox, torque the bolts to 30 ft. Ibs. (41 Nm). d. Before fitting the driveshaft back onto the rear of the transmission, retain the seal in the protective cap by applying grease to it. e. Torque the transmission crossmember bolts to 17 ft. Ibs. (23 Nm). f. Check the fluid level and fill with the rec~ ommended lubricant.

WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION >To perform this procedure, a special, large wrench that locks onto flats on alternate sides of a section of the rear driveshaft is required. Use Tool No. 26 1 060 or an equivalent.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the exhaust system. Unbolt and remove the exhaust system heat shields located behind and below the transfer case. 2. Unscrew the rear section of the driveshaft at the sliding joint located behind the output flange of the transfer case. ' 3. Hold the through-bolts stationary and remove the self-locking nuts from in front of the flexible coupling at the transfer case output flange. Discard all the self-locking nuts and replace them. During the next step, be careful not to let the driveshaft rest on the metal fuel line that crosses under it or the line could be damaged.

4. Slide the sections of the driveshaft together at the sliding joint and then pull the front of the driveshaft off the centering pin at the transmission output shaft. 5. Remove the nuts and through bolts from the flexible coupling linking the transmission output flange with the short driveshaft linking the transmission and the transfer case. 6. Note the locations of all the washers and then loosen the retaining nut and disconnect the range selector lever cable at the transmission by pulling out the pin. Be careful not to bend the cable in doing this. Then, loosen the nuts that position the cable housing onto the transmission and slide the cable housing backward so it can be separated from the bracket on the transmission housing. 7. There is a protective cap on the forward driveshaft where it links up with the transfer case. The cap is made of a brittle material, so it must be handled carefully. Gently slide the cap forward until is free of the transfer case. 8. Remove the drain pluginthe bottom of the pan and drain the transmission fluid. ; 9. Support the transmission from underneath

ina secure manner. Then, mark each of the 4 bolts

fastening the crossmember that supports thetransmission at the rear to the body, bol ent el lengths. Remove the crossmemb au ¥

DRIVE TRAIN ES

a

ES eT

a ST

10. Remove the 9 nuts fastening the transfer case to the transmission housing. Note the location of the wiring holder so it will be possible to reinstall it on the same bolt. 11. Slide the transfer case to the rear and off the transmission. To install: 12. Install the transfer case under the vehicle and raise it into position, bearing the following points in mind: a. Inspect the sealing surfaces as well as the dowel holes in the transfer case to make sure they will seal and locate properly. Clean the seal-

LT So ISIE SIS ES LEAP AY IERSPII

SY TRAE ENED

aE SANE!

ing surfaces and replace the gasket. b. When sliding the transfer case back onto the transmission, turn the front driveshaft section slightly to help make the splines mesh. c. When reconnecting the shift cable, inspect the rubber mounts and replace any that are cut, crushed, or cracked. Adjust the shift cable. d. Before fitting the driveshaft back onto the rear of the transmission, retain the seal in the protective cap by applying grease to it. e. When fitting the transfer case onto the transmission, check to make sure the output

7-19

HEABE SY!HES AOAWeaRe Tae GE TOTES

flange of the transmission is properly aligned with the flexible coupling. Put the through-bolts through the flexible coupling and then install and torque the nuts to 65 ft. Ibs. (88 Nm) while holding the bolts stationary, rather than turning them. f. Torque the bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission to 65 ft. Ibs, (88 Nm). g. Torque the transmission crossmember bolts to 17 ft. Ibs. (23 Nm). h. Check the fluid level and fill with the recommended lubricant.

DRIVELINE the differential. If equipped with U-joints, torque to

Front Driveshaft

52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). If equipped with a constant velocity joint, torque the M8 bolts to 23 ft. Ibs. (32 Nm) and the M10 bolts to 46 ft. Ibs. (64 Nm). 7. Install the front flex coupling and vibration damper. Torque the M10-8.8 bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm) and the M10-10.9 bolts to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). 8. Install the transmission crossmember. Preload the center bearing forward 0.157—0.236 inch (46mm) and tighten. Torque the spline locking ring to 12 ft. Ibs. (17 Nm). 9. Install the heat shields and crossmember. Install the exhaust system.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 325iX Models 1. Remove the 6 bolts from the flex coupling at the front differential. 2. Push the driveshaft back, then pull down and out of the transfer case. 3. Plug the opening in the transfer case. 4. Check the condition of the transfer case seal and the dust cap. Replace if necessary. 5. Install the driveshaft into the transfer case. Install a new flex coupling at the front differential. The arrows must face the arms of the flanges. 6. Install the bolts and torque the M10-8.8 bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm) and the M10-10.9 bolts to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). Hold the nut or bolt at the flex coupling side and turn of the flange side. This prevents stressing the flex coupling. 7. Slide the dust cap into position.

325iX 1. Remove the exhaust system. Remove the crossbrace under the driveshaft. Remove the heat shields. 2. Use Tool No. 26 1 040 or equivalent to loosen the spline locking ring at the rear of the shaft. 3. Remove the bolts holding the flex coupling to the transmission output flange. If equipped with a vibration damper, rotate the damper and pull off with the flex coupling. 4, Remove the bolts at the driveshaft to differential flange. 5. Remove the center bearing bolts and pull the driveshaft down and out. Avoid catching the fuel tank connector pipe at the rear. Avoid severe angles at the joints. To install: 6. Install the driveshaft and loosely install the center bearing to the body. Connect the rear joint to the differential. If equipped with U-joints, torque to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). If equipped with a constant velocity joint, torque the M8 bolts to 23 ft. Ibs. (32 Nm) and the M10 bolts to 46 ft. Ibs. (64 Nm). 7. Install the front flex coupling and vibration damper. Torque the M10-8.8 bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm) and the M10-10.9 bolts to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). 8. Preload the center bearing forward 0.157-0.236 inch (4-6mm) and tighten. Torque the spline locking ring to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm). 9. Install the heat shields and crossmember. Install the exhaust system.

Rear Driveshaft

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models ALL EXCEPT 325iX 1. Remove the exhaust system. Remove the crossbrace under the driveshaft. Remove the heat shields. Mark the relationship of the driveshaft flanges to the differential flange and the transmission output flange for installation. 2. Use Tool No. 26 1 040 or equivalent to loosen the spline locking ring behind the center bearing. 3. Support the transmission and remove the transmission crossmember. Remove the bolts holding the flex coupling to the transmission output flange. If equipped with a vibration damper, rotate the damper and pull off with the flex coupling. 4. Remove the bolts at the driveshaft to differential flange. 5. Remove the center bearing bolts and pull the driveshaft down and out. Avoid catching the fuel tank connector pipe at the rear. Avoid severe angles at the joints. To install: 6. Install the driveshaft and loosely install the

E36 Models

= 1, Remove the exhaust system. Remove the cross brace under the driveshaft. Remove the heat shields. Mark the relationship of the driveshaft flanges to the differential flange and the transmission output flange for installation.

center bearing to the body. Connect the rear joint to

Tee

NS CE

pe

Ae ne ey

2. Use Tool No. 26 1 040 or equivalent to loosen the spline locking ring behind the center bearing. 3. Remove the bolts holding the flex coupling to the transmission output flange. If equipped with a vibration damper, rotate the damper and pull off with the flex coupling. 4. Remove the bolts at the driveshaft to differential flange. 5. Remove the center bearing bolts and pull the driveshaft down and out. Avoid catching the fuel tank connector pipe at the rear. Avoid severe angles at the joints. To install: 6. Install the driveshaft and loosely install the center bearing to the body. Connect the rear joint to the differential. If equipped with U-joints, torque to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). If equipped with a constant velocity joint, torque the M8 bolts to 23 ft. Ibs. (32 Nm) and the M10 bolts to 46 ft. Ibs. (64 Nm). 7. Install the front flex coupling and vibration damper. Torque the M10-8.8 bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm) and the M10-10.9 bolts to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). 8. Preload the center bearing forward 0.157—0.236 inch (4-6mm) and tighten. Torque the spline locking ring to 12 ft. Ibs. (17 Nm). 9. Install the heat shields and crossmember. Install the exhaust system.

Flex Coupling (Guibo Disk) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove the exhaust system. Remove the crossbrace under the driveshaft. Remove the heat shields. Mark the relationship of the driveshaft flange to the transmission output flange for installation. 2. Use Tool No. 26 1 040 or equivalent to loosen the spline locking ring behind the center bearing. 3. Support the transmission and remove the transmission crossmember, if blocking the access to the coupling. Remove the bolts holding the flex coupling to the transmission output flange and the driveshaft. If equipped with a vibration damper, rotate the damper and pull off with the flex coupling. To install: 4, Install the front flex coupling and vibration damper. The arrows must face the flange arms. Torque the M10-8.8 bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm) and the M10-10.9 bolts to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm).

t

7-20

DRIVE TRAIN

5. Install the transmission crossmember. Torque the spline locking ring to 12 ft. Ibs. (17 Nm) for 2 wheel drive and 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) for 4 wheel drive. 6. Install the heat shields and crossmember. Install the exhaust system.

Center Bearing REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Mark the driveshaft at the flanges and at the center bearing for installation back into its original

Driveshaft End Bearing REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figure 67

84277019

1. Remove the exhaust system. Remove the crossbrace under the driveshaft. Remove the heat shields. Mark the relationship of the driveshaft flange to the transmission output flange for installation. 2. Use Tool No. 26 1 040 or equivalent to loosen the spline locking ring behind the center bearing. 3. Support the transmission and remove the transmission crossmember, if blocking the access to the coupling. Remove the bolts holding the flex coupling to the transmission output flange. If equipped with a vibration damper, rotate the damper and pull off with the flex coupling. 4. Fill the opening of the bearing with grease. Use a tool the same diameter as the bore in the bearing and drive in. The hydraulic force developed will drive the bearing out from the back side.

Fig. 67 Check the condition of the end bearing at the flex coupling

To install: 5. Clean the grease from the bore and fill with 2 grams of moly-lubricant grease. Drive the new bearing in until so. it protrudes 0.177 inch (4.5mm). 6. Install the front flex coupling and vibration damper. The arrows must face the flange arms. Torque the M10-8.8 bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm) and the M10-10.9 bolts to 52 ft. Ibs. (72 Nm). 7. Install the transmission crossmember. Torque the spline locking ring to 12 ft. Ibs. (17 Nm) for 2 wheel drive and 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) for 4 wheel drive. 8. Install the heat shields and crossmember. Install the exhaust system,

orientation. It is critical for balance that the 2 halves of the driveshaft be replaced into their original relationship. 2. Remove the driveshaft. 3. Loosen the spline locking sleeve at the center bearing and separate the front section from the rear section. 4. Remove the snapring at the splines. 5. Use a puller or press to remove the center bearing from the shaft. Note the location of the dust shields. To install: 6. Press the new center bearing onto the driveshaft. The dust shield should be flush with the center mount. 7. Clean the splines and coat with moly lubricant. Install the front half to the rear half in the same position as it was removed. 8. Install the driveshaft and torque the spline locking sleeve to 12 ft. Ibs. (17 Nm), except for 4 wheel drive which is 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm). If not equipped with splines, use a threadlocking compound and torque to 70 ft. Ibs. (97 Nm).

FRONT DRIVE AXLE

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 325iX Models e>A number of special tools are required to perform this operation. Use the BMW factory numbers given to shop for these from factory sources, or to cross-reference similar tools that may be available in the aftermarket. Use 33 4 050 and 00 5 500 to drive in a new lockplate for the brake disc. The tie rod must be pressed off with 342 2 070. Control arms are pressed off with 31 2 160. Use 33 2 112 and 33 2 113 to press the output shafts out of the brake discs and 33 2 112, 33 2 124 and 33 4 042 to press them back in. On the left side, the output shaft is pulled out of the drive axle with

315 011 and 30 31 581. On the right side, 31 5 011 and 31 5 012 are used to pull the output shaft out of the axle.

1. Raise the car and support it securely, Remove the front wheels. Remove the drain plug and drain the lube oil from the front axle. 2. Lift out the lockplate in the center of the brake disc with a screwdriver. Then, unscrew the collar nut. 3. Remove the attaching nut from each tie rod and then press the rod off the steering knuckle with 33 2 070. 4, Remove the retaining nut and then press

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Tete 7

the control arm off the steering knuckle on either side. 5. Mount 33 2 112 and 33 2 113 to the brake disc with 2 wheel bolts. Press the output shaft out of the center of the steering knuckle on that side. Repeat on the other side. 6. To remove the drive axle from the differential on the left side: Install special tool 31 5 011 by bolting it together around the axle so that the ring on its inner diameter fits into the groove on the shaft. Install 30 31 581 onto the shaft so it will rest against the housing and the bolt heads of 31 5 011 will rest against it. Screw the 2 bolts in alternately in small increments to get even pressure on the shaft, pulling it out of the differential. 7. To remove the drive axle on the right side: Install 31 5 012 on the diameter of the shaft directly against the housing. Install 31 5 011 by bolting it together around the axle so that the ring on its inner diameter fits into the groove on the shaft. Screw the 2 bolts in alternately in small increments to get even pressure on the shaft, pulling it out of the differential. To install: 8. Install the halfshafts, bearing the following points in mind: a. Install the shafts into the housing until the snapring inside engages in the groove of the shaft. It may be necessary to install the removal tool and tap against it with a plastic-headed , hammer to drive the shaft far enough into the housing. b. Before installing the shafts into the steering knuckle, coat the spline with light oil.

c. When installing the control arms onto the steering knuckle, torque the nut to 61.5 ft. Ibs. (84 Nm) and use a new cotter pin. When installing the tie rod onto the steering knuckle, torque to 61.5 ft. Ibs. (84 Nm) and use a new self-locking nut. d. Drive a new lockplate into the brake disc with 33 4 050 and 00 5 500. Torque the nut to 181 ft. Ibs. (245 Nm). e. Replace the drain plug and refill the final drive unit with the required lubricant.

Hub and Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 325iX Models e>A number of special tools are required to perform this operation. Read through the procedure and procure these before attempting to start work. Factory part numbers for tools are given, — but it is possible to shop for equivalent tools, using these part numbers, in the aftermarket.

1. Raise the car and support itsecurely. Remove the output halfshaft as described above. Then, remount the control arm with nuts ae tight, to keep the spring strut in position.— 2. Remove the upper and lower a and remove the brake cal | hose.

DRIVE TRAIN SLT

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3. Remove the Allen bolt and remove the brake

disc. 4. Bolt special Tool No. 31 2 090 or equivalent to the knuckle with its 3 bolts. Then, mount 33 1 307 hooked around the tie rod arm and press the drive flange off. If it is scored, pull the bearing’s inner race out of the drive flange with 33 1 307 and 00 7 500 or equivalent. 5. Compress the snapring with snapring pliers and remove it. 6. Remove 31 2 090 or the equivalent and replace 33 1 307 or its equivalent with a tool such as 31 2 070. Again install and use the combination, this time to press out the bearing. 7. Screw out the spindle of 31 2 090 and install 33 4 032 or equivalent so it is flush with the surface of 31 2 090. Use 33 4 034 and 33 4 038 to pull in the new bearing. Then, remove 31 2 090. 8. Install the snapring again, with snapring pliers, making sure the open end faces downward. 9. Pull the drive flange into place with 33 4 032 or equivalent, 33 4 038 or equivalent, 33 4 045 or equivalent, and 33 4 048 or equivalent. 10. Install the brake disc and caliper and the wheel in reverse order.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 325iX Models e>A number of special tools are required to perform this operation. Use the BMW factory

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numbers given to shop for these from factory sources, or to cross-reference similar tools

that may be available in the aftermarket. Use 33 4 050 and 00 5 500 to drive in a new lockplate for the brake disc. The tie rod must be pressed off with 342 2 070. Control arms are pressed off with 31 2 160. Use 33 2 112 and 33 2 113 to press the output shafts out of the brake discs and 33 2 112, 33 2 124 and 33 4 042 to press them back in. On the left side, the output shaft is pulled out of the drive axle with 315 011 and 30 31 581. On the right side, 31 5 011 and 31 5 012 are used to pull the output shaft out of the axle.

1. Raise the car and support it securely. Remove the front wheels. Remove the drain plug and drain the lube oil from the front axle. 2. Remove the attaching nut from each tie rod and then press the rod off the steering knuckle with 33 2 070. 3. Remove the retaining nut and then press the control arm off the steering knuckle on either side. 4. To remove the drive axle from the differential on the left side: a. Install special Tool No. 31 5 011 by bolting it together around the axle so that the ring on its inner diameter fits into the groove on the shaft. b. Install 30 31.581 onto the shaft so it will rest against the housing and the bolt heads of 31 5 011 will rest against it. c. Screw the 2 bolts in alternately in small increments to get even pressure on the shaft, pulling it out of the differential. 5. To remove the drive axle on the right side: a. Install 31 5 012 on the diameter of the shaft directly against the housing.

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b. Install 31.5 011 by bolting it together around the axle so that the ring on its inner diameter fits into the groove on the shaft.

c. Screw the 2 bolts in alternately in small increments to get even pressure on the shaft, pulling it out of the differential.

6, Remove the front driveshaft flex coupling bolts and remove the driveshaft. Remove the mounting bolts for the final drive and lower the unit. To install: 7. Install the final drive and torque the mounting bolts to 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm). Replace the output flange seals at the side of the final drive case before installing the halfshafts. 8. Install the halfshafts, bearing the steps in mind. 9. Install the shafts into the housing until the snapring inside engages in the groove of the shaft. It may be necessary to install the removal tool and tap against it with a plastic-headed hammer to drive the shaft far enough into the housing. 10. Before installing the shafts into the steering knuckle, coat the spline with light oil. 11. When installing the control arms onto the steering knuckle, torque the nut to 61.5 ft. Ibs. (84 Nm) and use a new cotter pin. When installing the tie rod onto the steering knuckle, torque to 61.5 ft. Ibs. (84 Nm) and use a new self-locking nut. 12. Drive a new lockplate into the brake disc with 33 4 050 and 00 5 500. Torque the nut to 181 ft. Ibs. (245 Nm). 13. Replace the drain plug and refill the final drive unit with the required lubricant.

REAR AXLE E36 Models

> See Figures 68 thru 80

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Remove the rear wheel. Pull out the lockplate and remove the axle nut. 2. Remove the constant velocity joint bolts at the final drive output flange. 3. Use Tool No. 33 2 110 or equivalent to press the axle through the bearing and out of the vehicle. Do not allow halfshaft to drop. To install: 4. Place the halfshaft through the bearing and pull into place using Tool No. 33 2 110 or equivalent. 5. Secure the constant velocity joint bolts at the final drive output flange and torque to 42 ft. Ibs. (58 Nm). 6. Lubricate the axle nut with oil. Torque the axle nut to 145 ft. Ibs. (200 Nm) and install the lockplate with Tool Nos. 33 4 050 and 00 5 500 or equivalent. Install the rear wheel.

1. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear exhaust system at the rear axle. Disconnect the stabilizer bar and move down. Remove the ABS sensor. Pull out the lockplate and remove the axle nut by installing two lug bolts and using a long, suitable prytool to hold the axle while loosening the stub axle nut using a % drive 12 point 30mm (1 %e inch socket and a suitable breaker bar. These sockets are readily available from the Sear® mail order tool catalog. 2. Remove the constant velocity joint bolts at the final drive output flange, which typically are removed with an E12 inverted Torx® socket. 3. Use Tool No. 33 2 110 or equivalent to press the axle through the bearing and out of the vehicle. Do not allow halfshaft to drop. To install: 4. Place the halfshaft through the bearing and pull into place using Too! No. 33 2 110 or equivalent. 5. Secure the constant velocity joint bolts at the fihal drive output flange and torque to 42 ft. Ibs. (58 Nm).

~ 6. Lubricate the axle nut with oil. Torque the axle nut to according to the thread spindle size, which typically on 3 series is size M22, and if used, install the lockplate with Tool Nos. 33 4 050 and 00

5 500 or equivalent, otherwise stake the nut. a. Following are the rear axle spindle nut tightening specifications:

90967P61

Fig. 68 Install two lug bolts and use a long, suitable prytool to hold the axle when loosening the CV joint to output flange fasteners

7-22

DRIVE TRAIN

4 90967P64

Fig. 69 Loosen the inner CV fasteners. Typically the fasteners are removed using an inverted size E12 Torx® socket

90967P65

Fig. 72 Once the stub axle is loose, it can be pressed out using a suitable drift and a hammer

" 90967P63 Fig. 70 Once the axle is removed from the

final drive, lower it and support it with mechanic’s wire

90967P67

Fig. 73 Cut the mechanic’s wire and. . .

Fig. 71 The stub axle splines are likely to have been installed with a locking agent. A press tool is used to press the axle out of the hub

90967P68

Fig. 74. . . withdraw the axle from the vehicle

ABS exciter-ring 90967P97

Fig. 75 The ABS exciter ring is part of the Stub axle. If replacing the stub axle make sure the exciter ring is not damaged

90967P73

“Fig. 78 Clean the stub axle splines with a small wire brush

90967P71

Fig. 76 Note the build up of debris on the stub axle. If available. .

90967P69

Fig. 79 Always use a torque wrench when installing the axle fasteners

90967P70

Fig. 77. . . carefully clean the metal surfaces of the stub axle. Avoid contact with cleaning solvents on the rubber CV boots

Fig. 80 Mount the wheel with the center cap removed for removal and installation of the spindle nut which requires using a 12 point 30mm socket

DRIVE TRAIN a

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e M22 spindle: 147.5 ft. Ibs. (200 Nm) e M24 spindle: 184 ft. Ibs. (250 Nm) ¢ M27 spindle: 221 ft. Ibs. (300 Nm) 7. Install the ABS sensor, the stabilizer bar and the exhaust system. Install the rear wheel.

CV-JOINT OVERHAUL » See Figures 81, 82 and 83 The replacement CV-boot clamps can be one of three types, a folding double clamped band, a double loop band, or an ear clamp band. Do not substitute ordinary radiator hose clamps or plastic ties in place of a CV-boot clamp.

“+ CAUTION When replacing a CV-joint or CV-boot, do NOT reuse the CV-boot clamps.

When removing a CV-joint, make sure to matchmark all the components before disassembly to ensure the components are installed exactly in the same location from which they were removed. If a component is to be replaced, make sure to install the replacement part in the exact location as the component being replaced. Failure to reinstall the components correctly could result in premature failure or excessive driveline vibration. If a CV-boot has failed and is to be replaced, the

C\V-joint from where the failed boot was located must be cleaned and repacked with the appropriate lubricant. When the outer CV-boot is to be replaced and/or the outer CV-joint serviced, if special tools are not available to remove the outer C\V-joint, simply disassemble and remove the inner CV-joint and boot, then slide the outer boot off of the axle.

kk WARNING If the outer CV-joint is to be replaced, make sure to note whether or not the vehicle is equipped with ABS brakes to ensure the correct replacement parts.

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Due to the popularity of halfshafts on front wheel drive and four wheel drive vehicles, axle and halfshaft rebuilding facilities have become increasingly popular. Before removing and disassembling a halfshaft, check locally to see if there is a facility available that will sell a rebuilt halfshaft, or rebuild your halfshaft. You may discover that this is more cost effective and convenient, especially if you remove the halfshaft yourself. 1, Remove the halfshaft assembly. 2. Remove the inner CV-boot clamp, then remove the boot plate from the inner CV-joint. Remove the snapring from the axle, matchmark axle to the CV joint, then slide the CV joint off the axle assembly, then the inner boot. e>it may be necessary to use a small universal gear puller to remove the axle from the CV joint.

3. Clean the axle shaft and apply a light lubricant to ease the boot removal. 4, Remove the clamps from the outer CV joint and slide the boot off the axle. To install: 5. Thoroughly clean and inspect the CV joints for looseness, signs of overheating or damage and

replace as necessary. 6. Inspect the CV boots for tears, cracking or hardening and replace as necessary. 7. Using a small flat spatula or scraper, carefully pack the outer CV joint with an approved high temperature CV joint grease. 8. Wrap the end of the axle splines with viny! tape to prevent damage to the boots. Install the outboard boot along with it's clamps. Make sure to at least slide the small clamps on at this time. 9. Install the inner boot. 10. Remove the vinyl tape, align the matchmarks and install the inner CV joint along with a new snapring onto the axle. 11. Secure the CV joint boot clamps on the outer CV, but only install the large clamp on the inner CV joint at this time. 12. Carefully slide a small flat-bladed screwdriver between the axle and the unclamped small end of the inner CV boot to allow air to escape while packing the CV joint with grease. 13. Using a small flat spatula or scraper, carefully pack the inner CV joint with an approved high temperature CV joint grease. 14. Once properly packed with grease, secure the small CV joint boot clamp on the inner CV.

TR

7-23

RE

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CV BOOT CLAMP INSTALLATION The C\V-boot clamps can be one of three types, a folding double clamped band, a double loop band, or an ear clamp band. The folding double clamped band has thick curved portion of band that seats into a small bracket and applies tension as the curved portion is pressed downward, and held in place by two folding tabs. The double loop band wraps around the CV-boot twice and through a small clip. The ear clamp band has a series of holes and locking tabs that are locked into the holes. 1. To install a folding double clamped band: a. Seat the end of the thick curved section into the small bracket. b. Press the thick curved section down, flush with the band. c. While holding the curved section down, fold over the locking tabs and seat them by tapping them lightly with a small hammer.

2. To install a double loop band C\V-boot clamp proceed as follows: a. Install the clamp in the direction such that if the axle were installed on the vehicle the clip of the clamp is at the top, with the end of the clamp is facing forward. b. Wrap the clamp around the boot 2 times, and seat the clamp into the groove of the boot. c. Pull the end of the clamp by hand to remove any slack in the band, and scribe a mark

in the band ¥2 an inch (12mm) from the clip. d. Using a boot band tool or an equivalent device, pull the end of the clamp until the line is flush with the rear edge of the clip, and then fold the end of the clamp upward so it is at a 90° angle with the clip. e. While holding the end of the clamp in this position, center punch the clip using a pointed center punch and a hammer. f. Trim the end of the clamp % of an inch (10mm) from the end of the clip, fold the clamp end over the clip and seat the folded clamp end by tapping it with a hammer. 3. To install an ear clamp style band clamp proceed as follows; ; a. Feed the tab of the band into the holes of the band. Sometimes a small flat-bladed jewelers screwdriver can be placed through the clamp’s hole and the tab levered into place. b. Squeeze the small raised ear portion at the

4)

SSS, BOOT BAND PINCERS KENT-MOORE J-35910 or equivalent —

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the outer CV-joint assembly with int grease é —

Fig. 82 The ear band CV-boot clamp is ‘assembled by placing the tabs through the holes in the clamp

93137604

Fig. 83 The ear band CV-boot clamp is tensioned by squeezing the base of the ears together using a boot band pincher

7-24

DRIVE TRAIN

rr

7. Coat the seal lip surface of the oil seal with differential fluid. 8. Make sure the flange lock nut-to-threaded shaft matchmarks are properly aligned. 9. Install the retaining plate.

base of the clamp using a pair of boot band pinchers, or carefully alternate side to side with a thin pair of needle nose pliers, until the gap at the base of the clamp’s ear is ¥ of an inch (3mm) apart.

Differential Assembly

Axle Flange and Bearing Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

> See Figure 85

> See Figure 84 >The rear wheel bearings are pressed in place. They cannot be serviced or removed without damaging the bearing. If the bearing is noisy or loose, no maintenance or adjustment is possible and the bearing must be replaced.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. Remove the wheel assembly. 4. Remove the halfshaft assembly. 5. Remove the brake caliper assembly and support it so there is no tension on the brake hose. 6. Remove the rear brake rotor and disconnect the parking brake cable. 7. If the BMW rear flange removal tools are not available, the trailing arm assembly will have to be removed and the axle flange and bearing pressed

out in a hydraulic press. 8. Remove the trailing arm as outlined in Section 8. 9. Using suitable press tools, support the trailing arm in a suitable hydraulic press and press the press out the axle flange. 10. Remove the large snapring in front of the wheel bearing. 11. Using suitable press tools, support the trailing arm and press the bearing from the trailing arm assembly. To install: 12. Inspect the trailing arm for damage and thoroughly clean the area where the wheel bearing is installed. Make sure there are no sharp edges on the entrance of the bore where the bearing is to be installed. If necessary, chamfer the edges of the housing to avoid binding when pressing the bearing in place. 13. Using a suitable hydraulic press and press tools, press the bearing into the trailing arm. 14. Install the bearing snapring into the trailing arm. 15. If necessary install the brake backing plate and related components if they will not clear the axle flange later.

90969P06

Fig. 84 The rear drive flange is pressed into the wheel bearing which is pressed into the trailing arm. The drive axle installs though the drive flange

16. Support the inner bearing race of the wheel bearing and press the axle flange into the bearing. 17. Install the trailing arm onto the vehicle, making sure to align the match marks made during disassembly. 18. The balance of the assembly procedure is in reverse of the removal procedure making sure to properly torque and stake the axle shaft nut. 19. Install the road wheel and torque the wheel bolts using a crisscross pattern to 74 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm).

| REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the driveshaft from the input flange of the final drive. Support the driveshaft with wire. 2. Remove the constant velocity joint bolts and support the halfshafts from the body. 3. Disconnect the speed sensors, if equipped. 4. Support the unit and remove the front mounting bolts, then the rear mounting bolts. Lower the unit. The axle ratio is marked on the housing or cover. To install: 5. Install the final drive. On E30 models, install the front bolts to support, on E36 models, install the rear bolts about 10 turns to support the assembly, then start the rear bolts. On high output engines or if used for sport events install new fasteners. 6. Tighten the bolts as follows: ¢ E30 models and M44 Z3 models: 80 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm) e All other E36 models: Front bolts to 70 ft. Ibs. (95 Nm) and rear bolts to 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) 7. Install the halfshafts and the driveshaft.

If the flange nut is not matchmarked or turned beyond the matchmark during reassembly, the clamping sleeve must be replaced and the differential properly assembled. 1. Remove the differential assembly. 2. Lift out the retaining plate. 3. Matchmark the flange lock nut with the threaded shaft. 4. Hold the drive flange with a retaining tool such as Tool No. 23 0 020 and remove the flange nut, then press off the flange with a suitable removal tool such as Tool No. 33 1 150 or their equivalents. 5. Remove the oil seal with a suitable inside jaw type puller. 6. Installation is in reverse order of removal making sure of the following:

Specially hardened differential front mounting bolt 90967P89

Fig. 85 Never substitute generic fasteners

for the original equipment bolts and always torque to specification upon assembly. These front differential mount bolts have been known to break, especially on high output engines

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DRIVE TRAIN

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TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS English

Metric

Mounting bolts:

30 ft. Ibs.

42 Nm

Filler plug: _Drain plug:

38 ft. Ibs. 14 ft. Ibs.

53 Nm 20 Nm

89 ft. Ibs.

123 Nm

81 ft. Ibs. 81 ft. Ibs.

110 Nm 110 Nm

70 ft. Ibs. 57 ft. Ibs.

95 Nm 77 Nm

Component Front differential

_

Rear differential Mounting bolts: Differential to subframe E30 M44 Z3 E36 Front: Rear Axle nut: M22 | M24

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147.5 ft. Ibs. 184 ft. Ibs.

200Nm 250 Nm

221 ft. Ibs.

300 Nm

16-17 ft. Ibs.

21-23 Nm

Manual transmission case mounting bolts: —

16 ft. Ibs.

22 Nm

Clutch release bearing sleeve bolts M6: ; M8x22:

7 ft. Ibs. 13 ft. Ibs.

10 Nm 18 Nm

M8x30: —

18 ft. Ibs.

25 Nm

M27 _ Center bearing to body bolts: _

|

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90967003

WHEELS 8-2 WHEEL ASSEMBLY 8-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-2 INSPECTION 8-3 WHEEL LUG STUDS 8-3 REPLACEMENT 8-3 FRONT SUSPENSION 8-4 STRUT ASSEMBLY 8-5 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-5 OVERHAUL 8-6 LOWER BALL JOINT 8-7 INSPECTION 8-7 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-7 SWAY BAR 8-7 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-7 LOWER CONTROL ARM 8-7 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-7 CONTROL ARM BUSHING REPLACEMENT 8-9 KNUCKLE AND SPINDLE 8-9 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-9 FRONT HUB AND BEARING 8-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-10 WHEEL ALIGNMENT 8-11 CASTER 8-11 CAMBER 8-11 TOE 8-12 REAR SUSPENSION 8-13 COIL SPRINGS 8-14 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-14 SHOCK ABSORBERS 8-14 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-14 TESTING 8-15 CONTROL ARMS/LINKS 8-15 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-15 SWAY BAR 8-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-16 REAR HUB & WHEEL BEARINGS 8-17 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-17 STEERING 8-18 STEERING WHEEL 8-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-18 TURN SIGNAL/HI-LO BEAM SWITCH 8-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-19 IGNITION SWITCH 8-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-19 IGNITION LOCK CYLINDER 8-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-19 STEERING LINKAGE 8-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-20 POWER STEERING GEAR 8-21 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-21 POWER STEERING PUMP 8-22 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 8-22 SYSTEM BLEEDING 8-23 COMPONENT LOCATIONS FRONT SUSPENSION COMPONENT LOCATIONS 8-4

REAR SUSPENSION COMPONENT LOCATIONS 8-13

SUSPENSION AND STEERING WHEELS 8-2 FRONT SUSPENSION 8-4 REAR SUSPENSION 8-13 STEERING 8-18

8-2

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

WHEELS

Wheel Assembly

=

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 e>lf a wheel bolt is stuck, never use heat to loosen it or damage to the wheel and bearings may occur. If the nuts are seized, one or two

heavy hammer blows directly on the end of the bolt usually loosens the rust. Be careful, as continued pounding will likely damage the brake rotor.

1. With the vehicle resting on the ground and the parking brake set, loosen the wheel bolts Ye turn in a crisscross pattern using a ¥% inch drive breaker bar and a 6 point deep well 17mm impact socket. 2. Block the wheel at the opposite corner of the vehicle with a wheel chock. Raise the vehicle at the jacking point. 3. Place a jackstand under the vehicle at a suitable jacking point before continuing work. 4. Mark the relationship of the wheel to the

hub to maintain the finish balance. Remove the lug

bolts and remove the wheel. 5. If the wheel is seized onto the brake rotor

and cannot be wiggled loose, a. Make sure the vehicle is safely sup-

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parr aos i 5 x oe Fsises Fig. 1 Loosen the wheel bolts % turn in a crisscross pattern using a ¥ inch drive breaker bar ;

5

and a 6 point deep well 17mm impact socket

ported.

b. Reinstall the lug bolts by hand until the lightly bottom, than back out each lug bolt 3 turns counterclockwise. c. While rotating the tire/wheel assembly, use a large soft faced hammer, preferably a nobounce or dead-blow type and rap on the sidewall of the tire sharply until the wheel is released from the brake disk. This may take several continuous repetitions to loosen the wheel.

Wear proper safety equipment and use work carefully when using a hammer. Avoid bodily contact.

To install: 6. Clean the surfaces of the wheel and the hub where they meet. Coat the hub with a thin layer of anti-seizing compound or BMW Plastilube Part No. 81 22 9 407 103. 7. Install the threaded wheel alignment tool provided in the vehicles tool kit into one of the bolt holes. This tool is the metal rod with the plastic fitting on the end. Slide the wheel over the alignment tool and onto the hub. The alignment tool matches

the lug holes in the wheel with the threaded holes in the hub. 8. Lubricate the lug bolt threads with a light

coating of a petroleum based 30 weight engine oil,

.

a

90961PA3 Fig. 2 A suitable floor jack eases the job of raising the vehicle. Always lift at a suitable jack

point and protect the underbody finish by using a piece of wood

— _——

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

8-3

Check the wheel assemblies for dents, cracks, rust and metal fatigue. Repair or replace as neces-

90969P30

Fig. 3 Clean the corrosion from the center of the hub, then apply a light coat of an anti-seizing compound or BMW Plastilube

sary. With the wheel removed, check for obvious bends, dents or chip missing from the rim. Check for cracks at the spokes, inside and outside. With the wheel installed, spin the wheel on the hub to check for bends and wobbles not noticeable with the wheel removed, Do not try to repair a damaged wheel by hammering it straight. Have an alloy wheel professionally repaired or replace it. Replace damaged steel wheels. Use only OEM approved replacement wheels and check BMW NA or your dealer for approved makes of wheels. Do not change the size, width or offset without first checking if the change is acceptable. Tire and wheel vibrations can be caused by several conditions such as: e Bent wheel e Tire imbalance e Uneven tire wear e Internal tire damage To check a tire/wheel assembly, remove and mount in a suitable spin balance tire machine. Check the following and replace as necessary: e Tire balance e Wheel and tire axial runout e Wheel and tire radial runout Steel wheels and tires: e Maximum tire radial runout: 0.078 inches (2.0mm) e Maximum tire axial runout: 0.078 inches (2.0mm) e Maximum wheel radial runout: 0.039 inches (1.0mm) e Maximum wheel axial runout: 0.039 inches (1.0mm) Aluminum wheels and tires: e Maximum tire radial runout: 0.063 inches (1.6mm) e Maximum tire axial runout: 0.063 inches (1.6mm) e Maximum wheel radial runout: 0.023 inches (0.6mm) e Maximum wheel axial runout: 0.023 inches (0.6mm)

Wheel Lug Studs REPLACEMENT

90968P66

Fig. 4 Tighten the lug bolts in a crisscross pattern. A suitable sized click type torque wrench works quite nicely for this job

or apply a light coating of an anti-seizing compound. 9. Install the lug bolts and remove the alignment tool. Snug the lug bolts.

The wheel bolt diameter and thread pitch specifications are M12 x 1.5mm. If a bolt is damaged it should be replaced and the threads in the hub cleaned with a suitable tap.

Inspect the tires for lacerations, puncture marks, nails and other sharp objects. Repair or replace as necessary. Also check the tires for treadwear and air pressure as outlined in Section 1 of this manual.

Although not sold by BMW, there are aftermarket suppliers of wheel studs that have been used for off road closed course use. Some enthusiast prefer using these for conditions that warrant frequent removal of wheels and tires.

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8-4 SUSPENSION AND STEERING

FRONT SUSPENSION

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Remove the front tire and wheel assembly. Unplug

Strut Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

EXCEPT 320 IX MODELS 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. 3. Disconnect the brake pad wear indicator plug and ground wire. Pull the wires out of the holder on the strut. Remove the ABS pulse sender, if equipped. 4. Unbolt the caliper and pull it away from the strut, suspending it with a piece of wire from the body. Do not disconnect the brake line. 5. Remove the attaching nut and then detach the push rod on the stabilizer bar at the strut. 6. Unscrew the attaching nut and press off the ball joint stud with the proper tool. 7. Unscrew the nut and press off the tie rod joint. =*Do not turn the steering rack to full lock or damage to the seals can occur.

8. Press the bottom of the strut outward and push it over the ball joint stud. Support the bottom of the strut. 9. Unscrew the nuts at the top of the strut, from inside the engine compartment, then remove the strut. To install: 10. Install the strut into the wheel housing and install the nuts. Press down on the control arm and - install the ball joint stud into the strut bore. Using new nuts, tighten the ball joint to 61 ft. Ibs. (85 Nm) and the top strut mounting nuts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (21-23 Nm). 11. Install the tie rod into the steering arm.and tighten the new nut to 26 ft. Ibs. (37 Nm). 12. Install the stabilizer bar link and tighten to 43 ft. Ibs. (59 Nm). 13. Install the brake caliper and tighten to 80 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm). 14. Install the ABS sensor, the brake pad wear sensor and the brake hose. Connect the negative battery terminal. Have the alignment checked.

320 IX MODELS 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

the ABS pulse transmitter. 3. Lift out the lock plate at the center of the brake disc with a small prybar. Unscrew the collar nut. 4. Disconnect the brake pad wear indicator plug and the ground wire. Pull the wires and brake hose out of the clip on the spring strut. Then, disconnect the small rod at the strut. 5. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts and support the assembly with a piece of wire, keeping stress off the brake hose. 6. Remove the attaching nut from the tie rod end. Then press the stud off the knuckle with the proper tool. e>Do not turn the steering rack to full lock or damage to the seals can occur.

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3. If installed, disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the strut.

4, Remove the two lower strut-to-steering knuckle bolts using a six point ¥ inch drive socket and a sturdy breaker bar. Typically the bolt heads are an 18mm. The bolts are secured with a locking agent and require significant leverage to break loose. Do not use an air tool to break these loose, as the fastener may snap. 5. Remove the upper through bolt and locknut holding the steering knuckle assembly to the strut. 6. Matchmark the forward stud, then while supporting the strut, remove the 3 mounting nuts at the top of the strut assembly and carefully lower and remove the strut from the vehicle.

7. Remove the attaching nut for ball joint and then press the stud off the knuckle with an appro-

priate tool. 8. Press the output shaft out of the center of the knuckle. 9. Support the spring strut from underneath. Remove the 3 bolts from the upper mount at the wheel housing. Remove the strut. To install: 10. Install the strut into the wheel housing and install the nuts. Press down on the control arm and install the ball joint stud into the strut bore. Using new nuts, tighten the ball joint to 61 ft. Ibs. (85 Nm) and the top strut mounting nuts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (21-23 Nm). . 11. Pull the axle through the bearing. Install a new nut and tighten to 180 ft. Ibs. (250 Nm). Install a new lockplate. 12. Install the tie rod into the steering arm and tighten the new nut to 26 ft. Ibs. (37 Nm). 13. Install the stabilizer bar link and tighten to 43 ft. Ibs. (69 Nm). 14. Install the brake caliper and tighten to 80 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm). 15. Install the ABS sensor, the brake pad wear sensor and the brake hose. Connect the negative battery ferminal. Have the alignment checked.

90968P28

Fig. 5 Remove the hydraulic brake line and if equipped, the ABS sensor wire from the mounting brackets on the strut

E36 Models 90968P25

> See Figures 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the wheel assembly. Disconnect the brake line and the wires from the holders on the strut, but do not disconnect from the caliper.

Fig. 6 The two lower strut bolts have a locking agent on them. Use a sturdy 12 inch drive 6 point socket and breaker bar to loosen

90968P26 90968P29

Fig. 7 Remove the upper through bolt and the two orale awa bolts, then remove the from the steering knuckle

Fig. 8 The two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts have a locking agent on them. Make sure to clean them and reapply a locking agent to the threads during assembly

90968P39

Fig. 9 Matchmark the upper strut mount to ease reassembly

8-6

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

To install: 7. Install the strut into the inner fender strut tower and tighten the new mounting nuts to 16-17 ft. bs. (21-23 Nm). 8. Clean the threaded holes in the steering knuckle and guide the strut onto the steering knuckle. Apply a locking agent to the new microencapsulated strut-to-knuckle mounting bolts and tighten to 60 ft. Ibs. (81 Nm). 9. If removed, install the stabilizer bar link and tighten to 43 ft. Ibs. (69 Nm). 10. Install the brake hose and wires into the holders. 11. Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle. 12. Have the alignment checked.

OVERHAUL 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13, 14.

> See Figures 10 thru 15

+ CAUTION This procedure calls for the spring to be compressed using specially designed tools. A compressed spring has high potential energy and if released suddenly can cause severe damage and personal injury. If suitable tools and equipment are not available and safety compromised, have a professional technician remove the spring from the strut for you. 1. Remove the strut from the vehicle and mount in a vise using a strut holder. This will prevent damage to the strut tube. 2. Using a suitable spring compressor, carefully compress the spring until the spring perch is no longer loaded by the spring. Use all the safety hooks provided and never point the compressed spring at a person. 3. Remove the top nut of the strut mount.

Cap Strut mount Locknut Washer Insulator Washer Bump stop Dust boot Strut housing

Rubber ring Upper spring perch Spring Shock absorber rod Rubber ring

15. Gland nut 84278003

Fig. 11 Cross sectional view of the spring and strut assembly—E30 models shown

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Fig. 12 Use a good quality spring compressor to collapse the spring, then remove the shock dampening rod locknut

90968P33

he _ Fig. 10 A cross-sectional view of a strut

| assembly with a renewable cartridge

Fig. 13 Once the locknut is removed, the washer, bearing/mount assembly, washer, top spring perch and rubber ring can be

removed

Fig. 14 In order of installation after the

spring: the bump stop/boot, rubber ring, top spring perch, washer, strut bearing/mount assembly, washer and locknut

SUSPENSION AND STEERING Counterhold the strut rod during removal. If the special tool is not available, use a deep well socket to fit the strut rod locknut. Clamp a large pair of locking pliers onto the deep well socket, the use a socket with an extension placed through the opening in the deep well socket and using a ratchet, hold the strut dampening rod steady while removing the

locknut. 4. With the locknut removed, pull the strut mount off the strut rod. Note the positioning of the spacers and washer for replacement. 5. Pull the spring off the strut and place somewhere safe. Do not release the compression of the spring. eeOn E36 models, the strut is replaced as an assembly. Compare the code just below the lower spring perch to make sure of the correct replacement or if replaced as a matched set,

both codes should be identical.

6. On E30 models: a. Remove the gland nut at the top of the strut housing. A special tool is sometimes needed to remove the nut. Some aftermarket strut manufacturers provide a tool with the replacement cartridges. b. Pull the old cartridge out of the strut and pour out the oil. To install: 7. On E30 models: a. Fill the strut tube with enough engine oil or ATF so when the new cartridge is installed, oil fills the tube but doesn't overflow. If the strut rod diameter is greater than 1.299 in. (33mm) do not use Oil. b. Install the new cartridge and any spacers that where provided by the manufacturer. Install the gland nut and tighten to 94 ft. Ibs. (130 Nm). 8. If replacing the spring, carefully remove the spring compressor and install the compressor on the new spring and carefully compress. 9. If necessary, transfer the rubber spring seats to the replacement strut. ; 10. Inspect the spring mount cushion and bearing condition and replace if the cushion is cracking or collapsed or if the bearing does not move smoothly. 11. Install the spring and strut mount with all the spacers, boots or cushions and washers in their Original positions. Tighten the new strut rod locknut as follows: e Dampening rods with external hexagon: 47 ft. Ibs. (64 Nm) ¢ Dampening rods with internal hexagon: 32 ft. Ibs. (44 Nm)

12. Release the spring slowly and check that it seats in the spring holders. Install the strut in the vehicle.

Lower Ball Joint

_ INSPECTION With the lower control arm supported, check for looseness between the control arm and steering

knuckle. Inspect the ball joint boot for cracking or ge.Iflooseness is noticed, or ifthe boot is

lubricating grease has been lost, the &, del

8-7

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION e*Special tools are needed to press the ball joint out of and in to the lower control arm. If suitable tools are not available, have a BMW dealer or certified repair facility with proper equipment replace the ball joint.

1. Remove the lower control arm from the vehicle as outlined in this section. 2. Matchmark the control arm-to-ball joint for installation reference purposes. 3. Using suitable press tool, press the bearing out of the control arm.

4. Align the replacement ball joint with the matchmark. 5. Using suitable press tools, press the ball joint into the control arm. 6. Reinstall the lower control arm as outlined in this section. 7. Test drive the vehicle and check the wheel alignment and align as necessary.

90968P14

Fig. 16 The front sway bar link attaches the control arm with a through bolt

7. On models with contro! arm mounted links, tighten the link-to-control arm locknut to 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm).

Lower Control Arm REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

E30 Models

E30 Models

> See Figures 17 and 18

1. Raise and support the front end. 2. Remove the stabilizer bar link nuts at the stabilizer bar. Disconnect the links from the bar on both sides. 3. Remove the bolts holding the left contro! arm bracket. 4. Remove the bolts holding the stabilizer bar and bushings to the body. Remove the stabilizer bar out from the left side. To install: 5. Apply a suitable lubricant between the sway bar and the rubber bushings to prevent squeaking noises. 6. Install the stabilizer bar and bushings. Tighten the bushing mounts to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) with the wrench flats parallel to the edges of the bar. Install the left control arm bracket and tighten the bolts to 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm). 7. Install the stabilizer bar links and tighten the nuts to 43 ft. Ibs. (69 Nm). The link to control arm mounting torque is 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm).

E36 Models

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly. Use a piece of wire to prevent the strut from extending to

far and damaging the brake hose.

84278004

Fig. 17 Control arm bracket mounting. Matchmark the control arm position before pressing the bushing off during replacement

» See Figure 16 1. Raise and support the front end. 2. Remove the stabilizer bar link nuts at the stabilizer bar. Disconnect the links from the bar on both sides. 3. Remove the bolts holding the stabilizer bar and bushings to the body. Remove the stabilizer bar. To install: 4. Apply a suitable lubricant between the sway bar and the rubber bushings to prevent squeaking noises. 5. Install the stabilizer bar and bushings. The bushing slit will face down. Tighten the bushing mounts to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm).

6. On models with strut mounted links, install the stabilizer bar links and torque the nuts to 43 ft. Ibs. (59 Nm) with the wrench flats parallel to the

edges of the bar.

A

84278005

Fig. 18 Control arm to subframe mount _ ball joint

8-8

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

2. Disconnect the rear contro! arm bushing bracket where it connects to the body by removing the bolts. 3. Remove the nut and disconnect the link on the front stabilizer bar where it connects to the stabilizer bar. 4. Unscrew the nut which attaches the control arm to the crossmember and remove the nut from above the crossmember. Then, use a plastic hammer to knock the stud out of the crossmember. 5. Unscrew the nut and press off the ball joint where the control arm attaches to the lower end of the strut, using the proper tool. To install: 6. Make sure the ball joints studs and the bores in the crossmember and strut are clean before inserting the studs. 7. Replace the original nuts with replacement nuts and washers. 8. Tighten the ball joint nut to 47 ft. Ibs. (65 Nm) for 2 wheel drive vehicles and 61.5 ft. Ibs. (93 Nm) for 4 wheel drive vehicles. 9. Tighten the control arm-to-subframe nut to 61 ft. Ibs. (85 Nm) for 2 wheel drive vehicles, and 72 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm) for 4 wheel drive vehicles. 10. Install the control arm bushing bracket and tighten the bolts to 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm). 11. Install the stabilizer bar link and tighten to 43 ft. Ibs. (59 Nm). 12. Install the wheel and tire assembly and carefully lower the vehicle.

E36 Models

> See Figures 17 thru 26 1. Loosen the lug bolts ¥% turn using a crisscross pattern. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly. 3. Disconnect the rear control arm bushing bracket using a suitable 17mm tool, by removing the bolts. 4. lf equipped, remove the front stabilizer bar bracket locknut where it connects through the control arm. 5. Install one lug bolt and attach a heavy

gauge wire from the lug bolt to the coil spring to hold the steering knuckle from stretching the brake hydraulic line. 6. Remove the locknut which attaches the control arm ball socket spindle to the crossmember using a 22mm (% inch) deep well socket and ratchet and remove the nut from above the spindle. Use a plastic hammer to rap on the side of the control arm ball socket, or use a wide ball joint separator to avoid damaging the boot and release the spindle from the crossmember. 7. Loosen the lower ball joint locknut using a 19mm (% inch) boxed end wrench, then use an open end wrench to turn the locknut until it can be

90968P16 90968P13

Fig. 19 Use a 22mm (7% inch) deep well socket to loosen the control arm-to-crossmember ball socket spindle

Fig. 20 Loosen the lower ball joint lock-

nut, then insert a suitable removal tool to press out the tapered spindle. Pressing on the nut prevents damaging the threads

90968P19 90968P15

Fig. 21 Once the lower ball joint is removed, unfasten the lower control arm bushing bracket bolts

90968P20

Fig. 24 Carefully remove the lower control arm from the vehicle

Fig. 22 If the ball joint spindle spins when attempting the remove the locknut, grasp the spindle with a pair of needle-nose locking pliers

90968P21

Fig. 25 A side view of the right lower control arm. Note the position of the rear bushing if it is to be replaced

90968P18

Fig. 23 Use a wide ball joint separating tool to prevent damaging the boot, and separate the spindle from the subframe

, 90968P22

Fig. 26 A top view of the right lower control arm

SUSPENSION AND STEERING loosened by hand. Use a ball joint/tie rod end removal tool to release the ball joint from the steering knuckle, then remove the locknut and lower the control arm from the vehicle.

To install: 8. Installation is in reverse order of removal, noting the following. Tighten the control arm fasteners as follows: e Rear control arm bushing bolts: 35 ft. Ibs. (47 Nm) ¢ Control arm ball socket spindle-to-crossmember bolt: 63 ft. Ibs. (85 Nm) e Ball joint-to-steering knuckle bolts: 48 ft. Ibs. (65 Nm) ¢ Sway bar bracket-to-control arm bolts: 31 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm) 9. If during installation, the tapered ball joint spindles rotate before the locknut is tightened: a. Seat the spindle by tapping on the ball joint with a soft faced hammer, or use a block of wood between the ball joint and a hard faced hammer. b. If seating the spindle failed to work, use a needle-nosed locking pliers or C-clamp to squeeze the components together. 10. Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicle. 11. Check the vehicle for proper alignment.

CONTROL ARM BUSHING REPLACEMENT E30 Models » See Figures 27 and 28 The bushings must be pressed out of the housing bores. BMW bushings are notoriously hard to press out of the housings. Use a high capacity

Fig. 27 With the vehicle loaded and at normal ride height, the gap at A in the lower control arm bushing should be

0.028-0.067 in. (0.7-1.7mm)—E30 3 Series

8-9

hydraulic press, penetrating lubricant and the proper sized mandrels for the press. Do not use sockets to try to replace the bushings. Mark the relationship of the bushing to the bore for correct replacement positioning. E36 Models

1. Remove the control arm as outlined in this section. 2. Measure the distance between the inner bushing sleeve and the control arm's pivot pin shoulder, and note for installation. 3. Matchmark the control arm spindle to bushing and the bushing to bushing bracket as illustrated. 4. Press off the bushing using suitable press tools. 5. Place the replacement bushing on top of the old bushing and duplicate the matchmarks on the replacement bushing; Place a thin flat blade screwdriver through the replacement bushing sleeve aligned with the matchmark, and duplicate the matchmark on the opposite side of the replacement bushing. Then place a straightedge across the replacement bushing and duplicate the outer matchmark on its opposite side. 6. If reusing the bushing bracket; a. Press out the old bushing. If necessary insert a hacksaw blade through the bushing and cut the outer shell from the inside outward, to allow the outer sleeve to contract. b. Carefully clean the inner portion of the bracket. c. Align the matchmarks of the replacement bushing and the bracket, and press the bushing into place. 7. Align the matchmark on the inner sleeve of the bushing with the matchmark on the control arm. 8. Coat the control arm spindle with an approved anti-friction agent or turpentine, and press the bushing until the measured clearance between the inner sleeve and the control arm's shoulder is attained. 9. Install the control arm immediately and place the vehicle with all four wheels on the ground, on a level surface, weighted to achieve the normal operating condition as follows: a. All except convertible and Z3: e 150 Ibs. (68 kg) in front driver's seat e 150 Ibs. (68 kg) in front passenger's seat e 150 Ibs. (68 kg) centered in rear passenger's seat e 46 Ibs. (21 kg) centered in trunk ‘b. Convertible and Z3: e 150 Ibs. (68 kg) in front driver's seat e 150 Ibs. (68 kg) in front passenger's seat e 31 Ibs. (14 kg) centered in trunk 10. Allow the vehicle to sit for at least 30 minutes to allow the anti-friction agent to evaporate. 11. Test drive the vehicle and check for needed wheel alignment. Align as necessary.

90968P25

Fig. 29 The two lower strut bolts have a

locking agent on them. Use a sturdy % inch drive 6 point socket and breaker bar to loosen

90968P29

Fig. 30 Remove the upper through bolt and the two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts, then remove the strut from the steering knuckle

90968P26

Fig. 31 The two lower strut-to-knuckle bolts have a locking agent on them. Make sure to clean them and reapply a locking agent to the threads during assembly

Knuckle and Spindle

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 29, 30, 31, 32 and 33 1. Loosen the lug bolts ¥% turn. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.

90968P16

Fig. 32 Loosen the lower ball joint locknut, then insert a suitable removal tool to press out the tapered spindle. Pressing on

the nut prevents damaging the threads

8-10

SUSPENSION AND STEERING 6. Remove the hub by hand, of if necessary, us a bearing puller set such as 31 2 101/102/104 and discard the hub. On the M3 models, if necessary, use a puller set such as 31 2 102/105/106. On the M3 models, install the main bracket of the puller with 3 wheel bolts. 7. Ifthe inside bearing inner race remains on the stub axle, unbolt and remove the dust guard. Bend back the inner dust guard and pull the inner race off with a special too! capable of getting under the race (BMW 00 7 500 and 33 1 309 or equivalent). Reinstall the dust guard. 90968P24

90969P11

Fig. 33 Use a tie rod end removal tool to remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle

Fig. 37. . . use a hand-held impact driver to break it loose

alte 3. Remove the tire/wheel assembly. 4, Remove the brake and bracket assembly as outlined in Section 9. 5. Remove the front hub as outlined in this section.

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e>lf just replacing the steering knuckle, the brake rotor can remain attached to the hub.

Bz.

6. Remove the control arm from the spindle.

2. Collar nut 3. Bearing unit

4. ABS sensor pulse teeth

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For details refer to the control arm removal procedures in this section.

7. Remove the ABS sensor fastener and sensor

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abel rea

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. Remove thetierod end. For details refer to the tie rod end removal procedures in this section

9. Remove the spindle from the strut assembly.

84278012

Fig. 34 Wheel bearings can not be

adjusted. The bearings must be replaced : Opa Uh ane Reva Be lepeeslone

removed from the spindle

For details refer to the strut removal procedures in this section. 10. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

90969P26

Fig. 38 This brake rotor was corroded in place, so the rotor mounting bolt was loosened 3 turns and. . .

Front Hub and Bearing REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 34 thru 43 This procedure is for 2 wheel drive vehicles. For hub and bearing replacement procedures for 4

wheel drive vehicles (325iX models), refer to Section 7.

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Fig. 35 The brake caliper and rotor are

fas aa ‘renatil ofeases ay the

>The wheel bearings are only removed if they

removed when replacing the hub/bearing

blows. Be careful to Bee Miele

are worn. They cannot be removed without

assembly

:

destroying them (due to side thrust created by the bearing puller). They are not periodically disassembled, repacked and adjusted.

1. Loosen the lug bolts slightly, then raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the front wheel(s). 3. Remove the front brake caliper, caliper bracket and brake rotor. Make sure to support the caliper. Do not allow the caliper hang and put tension on the brake hoses. 4. Using a suitable chisel, carefully remove the metal protective cap from the hub by wedging the chisel between the cap’s outer lip and the hub. 5. Using a chisel, knock the tab on the collar nut away from the spindle. Using a % inch drive

roly’s macnined surface

Mis 90969P25

46mm (1 1%e inch) socket and a suitable breaker

Fig. 36 Use a hex socket to remove the

sar, remove the nut by turning it counterclockwise. Discard the nut.

rotor mounting fastener. If it is difficult to remove...

Fig. 40 Using a chisel, work around the dust cap to carefully remove it

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

90968P36 90968P41

Fig. 41 Once the dust cap is loosened, remove the cap to access the spindle nut

To install: 8. If the dust guard has been removed, install a new one. Install a special tool (BMW 31 2 120 or equivalent; on M3, use 31 2 110 or equivalent) over the stub axle and screw it in for the entire length of the guide sleeve's threads. Press the bearing on. 9. Once the hub/bearing assembly is installed, tighten the wheel hub collar nut to 213 ft. Ibs. (290 Nm). Lock the collar nut by bending over the tab into the slot in the spindle. 10. The balance of the assembly is in reverse order of removal.

Wheel Alignment 2: WARNING For safety reasons, it is recommended that the alignment adjustments be set to factory recommendations.

If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems uneven in spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first check for improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering components, accident damage or even mismatched tires. If any worn or damaged components are found, they must be replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and involves minute adjustments which must be accurate; and should only be performed by a trained

Fig. 42 The spindle nut must be replaced upon removal. Use a sturdy six point 46mm (1 *%ce inch) socket and large breaker bar to remove it

technician. Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop. Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they affect vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, as delivered from the factory, On E30 models only the front toe is easily adjustable, the rear toe requires the installation and placement of eccentric trailing arm bushings. On E36 models, in addition to front and rear toe, the rear camber is also adjustable using common hand tools. When diagnosing a pulling problem, note that a vehicle will typically pull toward the side with the least positive caster or most positive camber.

8-11

Fig. 43 Once the spindle nut is removed, the hub/bearing assembly slide off the spindle. Note the notched ring for the ABS sensor, and the slots in the spindle for locking the spindle nut caster tends to make the wheels self-centering, increasing directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels more difficult to steer, while an uneven caster will cause a pull to one side.

Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as will raising the rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the caster becomes more positive, conversely as the rear is raised, the camber is reduced. If the front caster varies from side to side, the lower subframe fasteners can be loosened and the subframe moved slightly around the bolt holes for minute adjustments.

Only qualified technicians using proper equipment should make adjustments to a vehicle’s alignment.

CASTER

Although not adjustable from the factory, adjustable front caster/camber plates are available from aftermarket suppliers. Suspension tuning is a key element in improving the cornering ability of a vehicle, and should only be performed by a know!edgeable and experienced technician.

» See Figure 44

CAMBER

Only qualified technicians using proper equipment should make adjustments to a vehicle’s alignment.

Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle. The steering knuckle is attached to a strut at the top and a control arm at the bottom. The wheel pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back, this is described as positive caster. Having a positive

> See Figures 45, 46 and 47 Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When the tops of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive.

84278015

_|

Fig. 44 Caster affects straight-line stability. The rear caster wheels used on shop-

| ping carts, forexample, employ positive

Fig. 45 Camber influences tire contact with the road. As the top of the tire is moved away from the center of the vehicle, the camber becomes more posi-

90968P12

Fig. 46 The rear camber adjustment is carried out by loosening the locknut, tenes

8-12

SUSPENSION AND STEERING mid corner performance to be compromised and create excessive understeer. The rear toe should typically be set for toe in. Toe out should only be approached by a professional suspension expert for extreme cases where extensive modifications have been performed and the use of specific components require ignoring factory specifications. The front toe is adjusted on both E30 and E36 models by loosening a locknut and then rotating a threaded steering arm.

The rear toe on E30 models is adjusted by using eccentric bushings in the trailing arms. On E36 models, the toe is adjusted by loosening the three lower trailing arm bushing holder bolts, and moving the trailing arm.

Only qualified technicians using proper equipment should make adjustments to a vehicle’s alignment.

Increase toe ot

90968P11

Fig. 47. . . by moving the bolt that is keyed to the eccentric washer

In a turn, a slight amount of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much negative camber compromises straightline stability, increases rolling resistance, bump steer and tighten steer. Although not adjustable from the factory, adjustable front camber plates are available from aftermarket suppliers. Suspension tuning is a key element in improving the cornering ability of a vehicle, and should only be performed by a knowledgeable and experienced technician. On E36 models, the rear camber is adjusted by loosening the locknut of a through bolt, and moving an eccentric washer that is keyed to the bolt.

Only qualified technicians using proper equipment should make adjustments to a vehicle’s alignment.

90968P68

Fig. 49 The rear toe is adjusted by loosening the trailing arm bracket-to-body fasteners and moving the bracket forward to increase toe in, or back to increase toe out—E36 models

TOE » See Figures 48, 49 and 50 Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the wheels, relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front than at the rear, they are said to be toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe in the front end enhances directional stability and provides a smoother ride on the highway, however too much toe in will cause the front of the car to dart, or turn in quickly on a turn. A slight toe out may improve the ultimate turn-in ability of the vehicle, however too much toe out may cause the

Matchmark before moving 84278016

Or removal

Fig. 48 With toe-in, the distance between the wheels is closer at the front than at the rear

Fig. 50 Always matchmark any component related to alignment before loosening, moving or removal

D = D a Li= D =, as = See Figures 52, 53 and 54

E30 Models

> See Figure 51 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the rear portion of the exhaust system and hang it from the body. 3. Disconnect the final drive rubber mount, push it down, and hold it down with a wedge. 4. Remove the bolt that connects the rear stabilizer bar to the strut on the side being worked on. Be careful not to damage the brake line. e>Support the lower control arm securely with a jack or other device that will permit it to be lowered gradually, while maintaining secure support. 5. Then, to prevent damage to the output shaft joints, lower the control arm only enough to slip the coil spring off the retainer. To install: 6. Make sure, in replacing the spring, that the same part number, color code, and proper rubber ring are used. Install the spring, making sure that the spring is in proper position. 7. Keep the control arm securely supported while raising and replace the shock bolt. Install the bolts in the final drive rubber mount and tighten to 69 ft. Ibs. (95 Nm). 8. Tighten the stabilizer bolt to 16 ft. Ibs. (21.5 Nm), and the shock bolt to 63 ft. Ibs. (87 Nm) with

1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely. Do not support on the suspension components. 2. Support the lower trailing arm at the hub and disconnect the stabilizer bar at the control arm and the subframe. 3. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Lower the trailing arm slowly and remove the spring to the side. To install: 4. Install the spring with the bushing in place and the top of the lubricated. 5. Raise the trailing arm to a level where the bolt can be replaced in the lower shock mount. Connect the stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten the stabilizer bolt to 16 ft. Ibs. (21.5 Nm), and the shock bolt to 63 ft. Ibs. (87 Nm) with the control arm in the normal ride position.

Shock Absorbers

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

» See Figure 51 1. Remove the trunk trim panel to expose the upper shock mounts.

used on E30 vehicles

90967P75 Fig. 54 Support the lower control arm when removing the lower shock bolt, otherwise the threads may be damaged

EE

2. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support safely. 3. Support the lower control arm and remove the lower mounting bolt. 4. Remove the upper mounting nut and remove the shock from the vehicle. To install: 5. Exchange or replace the upper shock mount and tighten the upper shock nut to 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm). 6. Replace the gasket between the shock mount and the body. Install the shock and tighten the nuts to 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm). Install the trunk panel. 7. Install the lower shock mounting bolt and lower the vehicle. With the vehicle resting at standard ride height, tighten the mounting bolt, if unmarked, to 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) or, if marked 10.9, tighten the bolt to 74 ft. Ibs. (1 Nm). E36 Models

> See Figures 54, 55, 56 and 57 1. Remove the trunk trim panel to expose the upper shock mounts. 2. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support safely.

3. Support the lower control arm and remove the lower shock mounting bolt. 4. Remove the upper mounting nut, then remove the shock from the vehicle. To install: 5. Exchange or replace the upper shock mount and tighten the upper shock nut to 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm 6. Replace the gasket between the shock mount

90968P06

84278017

Fig. 51 The trailing arm suspension as

ES

Fig. 53 The sway bar link bracket shown removed

Fig. 52 Removing the sway bar link bracket locknut

90967P76

Fig. 55 The lower shock mounting bolt threads into the rear bearing carrier

90968P07

Fig. 56 Pull back the trunk lining to access the upper shock mounting bolts

SUSPENSION AND STEERING within the shock absorber. Oil-filled shocks may have a light film of oil around the seal, resulting from normal breathing and air exchange. This should NOT be taken as a sign of failure, but any sign of thick or running oil definitely indicates failure. Gas filled shocks may also show some film at the shaft; if the gas has leaked out, the shock will have almost no resistance to motion. While each shock absorber can be replaced individually, it is recommended that they be changed as a pair (both front or both rear) to maintain equal response on both sides of the vehicle. Chances are quite good that if one has failed, its mate is weak also.

90968P08

Fig. 57 With the lower mounting bolt removed, remove the upper mounting bolts and the shock can be carefully lowered down and removed

9. Disconnect the sway bar outer link bracket. 10. Support the trailing arm and remove the lower shock bolt, then slowly lower the trailing

arm. 11. Remove the two through bolts and lockwashers, and lower the trailing arm from the vehicle. > Offset trailing arm bushings are available to adjust the rear toe, however they must be pressed in using suitable press tools.

To install: 12. Installation is in reverse order of assembly, noting the following rear suspension fastener torque specifications: ¢ Trailing arm-to-subframe fasteners: 49 ft. Ibs. (67 Nm); 10.9 fasteners, 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) ¢ Lower shock mounting bolt: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm); 10.9 fasteners, 74 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm). 13. Bleed the brake system as outlined in Section 9. 14. Test drive the vehicle and check the alignment. Align as necessary.

e>When replacing shocks, always make sure

they are a matched set, or for one shock, make sure it matches the shock not being replaced.

and the body. Install the shock and tighten the nuts to 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm). Install the trunk panel. 7. Install the lower shock mounting bolt and lower the vehicle. With the vehicle resting at standard ride height, tighten the mounting bolt to 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) or if marked 10.9, 74 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm).

8-15

Control Arms/Links REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

E36 Models

The independent rear suspension used on E30 models is comprised of a left and right side trailing arm. Each trailing arm has a pressed-in wheel bearing, and two pressed-in bushings that allow each trailing arm to pivot separately from the rear subframe, which also supports the differential.

TESTING » See Figure 58 The purpose of the shock absorber is simply to limit the sudden motion of the spring during compression and rebound cycles. If the vehicle is not equipped with these motion dampers, the up and down motion would multiply until the vehicle was alternately trying to leap off the ground and to pound itself into the pavement. Contrary to popular rumor, unless gas charged,

The independent rear suspension used on the E36 models is comprised of a left and right trailing arm and an upper and lower control arm for each side. This suspension system offers easy adjustment of both the rear toe and camber, allowing a driver to tailor the settings to suit their driving style and road conditions. Always matchmark the areas that affect the alignment settings before disassembly.

TRAILING ARM

» See Figure 51

the shocks do not affect the ride height of the Vehicle. This is controlled by other suspension components such as springs and tires. Worn shock absorbers can affect handling; if the front of the Vehicle is rising or falling excessively, the “footprint” of the tires changes on the pavement and steering is affected. The simplest test of the shock absorber is simply push down on one corner of the unladen vehicle and release it. Observe the motion of the body as it is released. In most cases, it will come up beyond it original rest position, dip back below it and settle quickly to rest. This shows that the damper is controlling the spring action. Any tendency to excessive _ pitch (up-and-down) motion or failure to return to rest within 2-3 cycles is a sign of poor function

>The trailing arm can be removed along with the drive axle without the need fdr special tools. However if the trailing arm is to be replaced, special tools are needed for the drive flange and wheel bearing removal and installation.

TRAILING ARM > See Figures 59, 60 and 61 >The trailing arm can be removed along with the drive axle without the need for special tools. However if the trailing arm is to be ~ replaced, special tools are needed for the drive flange and wheel bearing removal and installation.

1. If replacing the trailing arm; a. The rear wheel bearing and shafts seals must also be replaced. b. Remove wheel center caps and loosen the axle spindle nut.

1. If replacing the trailing arm; a. The rear wheel bearing and shafts seals must also be replaced. b. Remove wheel-center caps and loosen the axle spindle nut.

>The wheel bearing requires the use of spe-

cial tools to press in place. 2. Loosen the rear wheel lug bolts ¥% turn. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4, Remove the inner CV-joint from the final drive output flange. 5. If replacing the trailing arm: a. Remove the axle from the rear wheel hub. For more detailed axle removal procedures, please refer to Section 7. b. Remove the pressed in drive flange using BMW Tool No. 33 4 010 or a suitable heavy duty wheel bearing flange slide hammer.

Upper, Control arm

lowencontrol sah

>The drive flange requires the use of special tools to press in place.

TCCA8P73

eons out of the

j

6. Disconnect the parking brake cable. 7. Remove the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, or captivate the brake system by placing clear plastic over the reservoir opening and reinstalling the cap. 8. Place a drain pan under the brakelines, and

ante bau bse line. on

ae

ee

:

Inner-bushing

,

Fig. 59 With the inner CV-joint discon-

nected, the upper and lower control arm inner bushings and bere bolts are vis-

,

8-16

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

re

90969P31

Fig. 60 The outer portion of the upper and lower control arms is attached to the trailing arm. The brake caliper has been removed for a more detailed view

remove the control arm-to-trailing arm locknut and through bolt. Make sure the eccentric washer is matchmarked. 11. Matchmark the trailing arm bushing bracket where it mounts to the body to maintain the toe settings during assembly. Remove the three bracketto-body mounting bolts lower the trailing arm from the vehicle. To install: 12. Installation is in reverse order of assembly, noting the following rear suspension fastener torque specifications : e Upper control arm-to-subframe M12 10.9 fasteners: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) ¢ Lower control arm-to-subframe M12 10.9 fasteners: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) e Control arm top/bottom-to-trailing arm bolts: 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm) e Trailing arm bushing bracket-to-body bolts: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) e Trailing arm bushing-to-bracket through bolt: 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm) ¢ Lower shock mounting bolt: 57 ft.Ibs. (77 Nm), or if marked 10.9, 74 ft. Ibs.(100 Nm). 13. Bleed the brake system as outlined in Section 9. 14. Test drive the vehicle and check the alignment. Align as necessary.

UPPER CONTROL ARM » See Figures 59, 60 and 61 90968P11

Fig. 61 The lower control arm-to-trailing arm mounting bolt is keyed into an eccentric washer for camber adjustment. Matchmark the washer before removal or adjusting >The wheel bearing requires the use of special tools to press in place.

2. Loosen the rear wheel lug bolts % turn. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4, Remove the inner CV-joint from the final drive output flange. If replacing the trailing arm; a. Remove the axle from the rear wheel hub. For more detailed axle removal procedures, please refer to Section 7. b. Remove the pressed in drive flange using a suitable heavy duty wheel bearing flange slide hammer. The drive flange requires the use of special tools to press in place.

ba

5. Disconnect the parking brake cable. 6. Remove the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, or captivate the brake system by placing clear plastic over the reservoir opening and’ reinstalling the cap. 7. Place a drain pan under the brake lines, and disconnect the hydraulic brake line. 8. Support the trailing arm and remove the lower shock bolt, then slowly lower the trailing ay arm.

* 9. Remove the upper control arm-to-trailing armlocknut and through bolt.

~ 10. Matchmark the lower contro! arm-to-trailing _arm eccentric washer to retain the camber settings

ring de

Support thepel arm and

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the rear wheel. 3. Remove the rear spring as outlined in this section. 4. Disconnect the upper sway bar bracket as outlined in this section. 5. Remove the upper contro! arm-to-trailing arm locknut and through bolt. 6. Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential. Refer to Section 7 for specific details if necessary. 7. Support the differential assembly and remove the two upper and lower mounting bolts, and leaving the axles attached, move the differential enough to access the upper control arm-to-subframe fastener. 8. Remove the ABS cable from the upper control arm. 9. Remove the upper control arm-to-subframe fasteners, then remove the control arm. To install: 10. Installation is in reverse order of assembly, noting the following rear suspension fastener torque ape edhe e Upper control arm-to-subframe M12 10.9 fasteners: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) e Lower control arm-to-subframe M12 10.9 fasteners: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) ¢ Control arm top/bottom-to-trailing arm bolts: 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm) Trailing arm bushing bracket-to-body bolts: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) Trailing arm bushing-to-bracket through bolt: 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm) Lower shock mounting bolt: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm), or if marked 10.9, 74 ft. Ibs. (100 |) a aes snd i

yl

ath a) As

Serte

nie

a

ei

aie .

LOWER CONTROL ARM » See Figures 59, 60 and 61

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the rear wheel. 3. Matchmark the lower control arm-to-trailing arm eccentric washer to retain the camber settings during installation. 4. Disconnect the driveshaft from the differential. Refer to Section 7 for specific details if necesSary. 5. Support the differential assembly and remove the two upper and lower mounting bolts, and leaving the axles attached. 6. Support the trailing arm and remove the control arm-to-trailing arm locknut and through bolt. Make sure the eccentric washer is matchmarked. 7. Move the differential enough to access the lower control arm-to-subframe fastener and remove, then remove the control arm. To install: 8. Installation is in reverse order of assembly, noting the following rear suspension fastener torque wine eae le ¢ Upper control arm-to-subframe M12 10.9 fasteners: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) ¢ Lower control arm-to-subframe M12 10.9 fasteners: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) ¢ Control arm top/bottom-to-trailing arm bolts: 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm) Trailing arm bushing bracket-to-body bolts: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm) Trailing arm bushing-to-bracket through bolt: 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm) Lower shock mounting bolt: 57 ft. Ibs. (77 Nm), or if marked 10.9, 74 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 52, 53, 62, 63 and 64 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Using a6 point deep well socket, remove the locknuts from the outer link mounting brackets. a. On E36 models the locknuts are accessed from the top of the upper link arm. b. On E30 models, the locknuts are accessed from the lower trailing arm. 3. Remove the through bolt and locknut from the inner sway bar bushing brackets. 4. Pivot the sway bar brackets away from the mounting tab. Ifnecessary, use a suitable prytool to help release the brackets, then lower the sway bar from the right side of the vehicle.— To install: 5. Inspect and replace the swaybarbushings as necessary.

6. Apply a suitable lubricant betweenthesway bar and the rubber bushings to 2aking noises and allow smooth operation ‘th

bracket into the mounting tab

to instal theboltandlocknut

)

:

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

90968P01

Fig. 62 Once the upper link bracket is removed, remove the nut and bolt from the sway bar bushing bracket, then. . .

8. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of disassembly.

Rear Hub & Wheel Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 65, 66, 67 and 68 The rear hub is a press fit into the rear wheel bearing which is press fit into the trailing arm. If the rear hub is to be replaced, the rear wheel bearing must also be replaced, as the bearing is destroyed in the process of removing the hub. If only the rear wheel bearing is in need of replacement, the rear hub can be reused as long as it has not been damaged or bent.

90969P06

Fig. 65 The rear brake disk is removed to access the rear hub

90968P03

90968P02

Fig. 63. . . pivot the top of the bracket to release it. It may be necessary to use a suitable prytool to release it

Because the bearing and hub are press fit into place, the use of specialized tool is necessary for removal and installation procedures. There are special tool which are available that will allow for the hub and bearing to be removed and replaced without removing the trailing arm. When using these tools, refer to the tool manufacturer's instructions for the hub and bearing replacement procedures. If using a hydraulic press to press out the hub

and bearings, the trailing arm must be removed. On E36 models an alignment check will be necessary as the trailing arm mounting bracket is slotted for toe adjustment, and removal and installation of the trailing arm will cause the toe to change. >The rear wheel bearings are pressed in place. They cannot be serviced or removed without damaging the bearing. If the bearing is noisy or loose, no maintenance or adjustment is possible and the bearing must be replaced.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 3. Remove the wheel center cap and loosen the rear axle nut. 4, Remove the wheel assembly. 5. Remove the halfshaft assembly. 6. Remove the brake caliper and bracket assembly, and support it so there is no tension on the brake hose. 7. If available, use a suitable sized slide hammer tool with a stub axle puller adapter and remove the stub axle from the trailing arm, then remove the large snapring.

8-17

Fig. 64 Pivot the sway bar downward and remove it from the vehicle

8. Remove the rear parking brake shoes, springs and adjusters. 9. Remove the rear trailing arm as outlined in this section. 10. If not previously removed, using a suitable hydraulic press and suitable press tools, support the trailing arm and press out the stub axle, then remove the large snapring. 11. Support the trailing arm and using suitable press tools, press out the bearing. 12. If the inner bearing race did not release from the stub axle during removal use a suitable puller to remove the inner race. If necessary, use a chisel, wedging it side to side to move the inner race away from the shoulder to allow adequate room for the puller. Clean the stub axle thoroughly and remove or smooth any burrs with a

metal file. To install: 13. If available, place the bearing assembly in a plastic bag and spray it with a coating of light spray on lubricant, seal the bag and place the bearing in a freezer an hour or more before installing. This will shrink the bearing and ease its installation. 14. Inspect the trailing arm for damage and thoroughly clean the area where the wheel bearing is installed. Make sure there are no sharp edges on the entrance of the bore where the bearing is to be installed. If necessary, chamfer the edges of the housing to avoid binding when pressing the bearing in place. 15. Support the trailing arm in a suitable press and press the bearing using suitable press tools into the trailing arm until it is fully seated.

90967P77

Fig. 66 The axle is installed into the splined grooves of the rear wheel hub

Fig. 67 The splines allow the axle to transfer power from the differential to the rear wheel hub. Clean the splines and coat with a medium strength locking compound during assembly.

90968P65

Fig. 68 The axle nut should be replaced, tightened to specification and staked during installation

8-18

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

16. Install the bearing snapring into the trailing

arm. 17. \f previously removed, or if replacing the trailing arm install/transfer any dust shields as necessary. 18. Support the inner bearing race of the bear-

Steering Wheel REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

ing that has been pressed into the trailing arm and press the stub axle into the inner bearing race making sure it is fully seated. 19. Install the trailing arm onto the vehicle. 20. On E36 models make sure to align the match marks made during disassembly.

21. The balance of the assembly procedure is in reverse of the removal procedure making sure to use a new axle nut and properly tighten all fasten-

3. Use tool 00 2 110 or a T30 Torx® bit to remove the air bag module bolts from behind the steering wheel. Remove the air bag module and disconnect the wire on the back. Place the air bag module in a safe area with the trim pad facing up.

4. Unlock the steering column with the ignition key. Turn the steering wheel to the straight position. 5. Hold the steering wheel and remove the nut from the steering shaft. 6. Mark the relationship of the steering wheel to the shaft and pull the steering wheel off the shaft. To install: 7. Install the steering wheel in its original position with the lock pin in the bore. Install the washer and a new locknut. Tighten the nut to 58 ft. Ibs. (80 Nm). Do not use the steering column lock to hold the steering wheel against the torque. Hold the wheel during torquing. 8. If the contact ring has moved out of position and needs to be returned to the center, press the spring and rotate the ring completely left or right to the stop. Turn the ring in the opposite direction 3 turns to align the marks. 9. Install the air bag module and connect the wires. Using new bolts, torque the mounting bolts to 71 inch Ibs. (8 Nm), right side first. Check for smooth rotation of the wheel and operation of the horn. 10. Arm the SRS, as outlined in Section 6 of this manual.

Without SRS Air Bag 1. Unlock the steering column with the ignition key.

2. Carefully pry the center emblem out of the steering wheel. 3. Hold the steering wheel and remove the nut from the steering shaft. 4. Mark the relationship of the steering wheel to the shaft and pull the steering wheel off the shaft. To install: 5. Install the steering wheel in its original position. Install the washer and a new locknut. Tighten the nut to 58 ft. Ibs. (80 Nm). Do not use the steering column lock to hold the steering wheel against the torque. Hold the wheel during torquing. 6. Install the center emblem by pressing down into the opening. Check for smooth rotation of the wheel and operation of the horn.

90968P57

Fig. 69 With the air bag disarmed, a T30 Torx® bit is used to remove the driver’s air bag mounting fasteners. Install the airbag with new fasteners

ers. 22. Check and adjust the rear wheel alignment if necessary.

With SRS Air Bag

» See Figures 69 thru 74

sk CAUTION Some models covered by this manual are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors, the air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, disable the SRS, as

described in Section 6. Ss

pe

es

SS

SE

ES

STS

1. Disarm the SRS and disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove the lower steering column trim or the small panel and disconnect the orange connector.

90968P46

90968P54

Fig. 70 Detach the air bag’s electrical connector and place the air bag unit in a safe area with the trim pad facing up

Fig. 71 Use a chisel to matchmark the installed position of the steering wheel to the steering shaft

Air bag wire Spool #Aa? b= alignment dowel

90968P70

Fig. 72 The notch left by the chisel is easy to see

9o96aP44

Fig. 73 Detach the electrical connector for the air bag slip ring assembly before removing the steering wheel

Fig. 74 Make sure the alignment dowel seats into the air bag wire spool when installing the steering wheel

SUSPENSION AND STEERING SE

ES

ST

SE

RE

SE EE

LYS

PS

PRR

IS

RPE

DTS

Turn Signal/Hi-Lo Beam Switch REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

*:k CAUTION

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

+ CAUTION

Some models covered by this manual are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors, the air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, disable the SRS, as described in Section 6.

Some models covered by this manual are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors, the air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, disable the SRS, as described in Section 6.

E30 Models

E30 Models

1. If equipped, disarm the SRS. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove the steering wheel. 3. Remove the trim panel at the bottom left of the instrument panel and the lower steering column casing. 4. Remove the screws holding the switch. Remove the switch and disconnect the plug. To install: 5. Install the switch and connect the plug. The ground wire must be connected and the retainers must fit into the holes. 6, Install the trim panels and steering wheel. Connect the negative battery terminal.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Disarm the SRS when working on the steering column, if equipped. 2. Remove the steering wheel, the trim panel below the steering column and the steering column lower casing. 3. Disconnect the ignition switch harness and press the clips in securing the switch. Pull the switch off the lock assembly. 4. Check the position of the switch and install in reverse order.

BR

8-19

PS

To install: 7. Slide the lock cylinder in place, but do not force it. If the cylinder does not seat, turn the ignition lock cylinder slowly with the ignition key until the switch seats. Test the switch operation before locking in place. 8. Tighten the set screws until they seat snuggly, be careful to not overtighten. 9, Apply touch up paint over the screw heads as a mild locking agent. 10. The balance of assembly is in reverse order of removal.

Ignition Lock Cylinder REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

E36 Models

» See Figure 75 1. If equipped, disarm the SRS. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. 2. Remove the lower dashboard trim panel at the left. Remove the lower section of the steering column casing. 3. Remove the steering wheel. Remove the screw and compress the clip to release the switch. Disconnect the plug. To install: 4. Install the switch and connect the plug. _ 5. Install the steering wheel and trim panels. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. Arm the SRS, as outlined in Section 6 of this manual.

E36 Models > See Figures 76 and 77 1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to disarm the SRS when working on the steering column, if equipped. 3. Remove the lower dash panel mounting screws and then pull outward on the left side of the panel to release and remove the panel downward. 4. Remove the lower steering column cover mounting screws, then remove the cover. 5. Wearing eye protection, clean away the paint covering the ignition switch set screws. The screws are very small and the paint acts as a locking agent and must be thoroughly removed. 6. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, loosen the screws about 4-5 turns and slide the switch away from the steering lock cylinder, then detach the electrical connector.

\

fog

1. On E36 models equipped with the EWS II anti-theft system, The ring antenna surrounding the ignition switch must be removed as follows; a. Disable the SRS. b. Remove the right side lower dash trim and lower steering column cover. c. Follow the routing of the antenna ring wiring and remove any cable ties as necessary to allow adequate slack in the wiring for removal. d. Carefully pry the antenna ring off the ignition switch. e. If necessary disconnect the antenna electrical connector auxiliary relay panel. 2. Insert the ignition key and turn 60 °. 3. Use a 3/64 inch (1.2mm) wire to press down into the small bore on the face of the lock. 4. On vehicles manufactured up to October 1995, turn the lock cylinder back 12° to release. 5, Pull the lock cylinder out. 6. If there is no bore, remove the steering column trim panel and press the bore on the side of the cylinder with a suitable punch to remove the cylinder. 7. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Steering Linkage The power assisted rack and pinion steering units used on BMW E30 and E36 models have two ball socket joints per side. Only the outer ball socket is visible, typically referred to as the outer tie rod end, which is attached to the steering knuckle

.

Recessed set screw

9096877

Fig. 76 The ignition electrical switch is attached to the back of the steering lock assembly

Fig. 77 Carefully remove the screw trim

cover to access the mounting screw

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

8-20

with a tapered spindle and threaded onto the inner steering rod. The inner steering rod, which is threaded into the tie rod end, has a hex shaped section that is used to rotate the steering rod in and out of the tie rod end as necessary. When the proper alignment reading is attained, a locknut is tightened against a tapered collar, locking the tie rod in position. By threading the steering rod into the tie rod end, the effective length of the steering rod is decreased, and if threaded out of the tie rod end, it is lengthened. This adjustment is used to adjust the front toe settings when performing a front end alignment. The steering rod has a ball socket similar to the tie rod end, but it is not visible, as it is attached to the end of the steering shaft rack and covered with an accordion pleated boot. When rotating the steering rod to adjust the alignment, the area where the boot surrounds the steering rod should be lubricated with light grease or a light penetrating spray lubricant, so the boot does not twist as the steering rod is rotated. Both the steering rod ball socket and the tie rod end ball socket are subject to wear, however due to its location, the tie rod end is typically more likely to wear because of its exposure to the elements and heat generated by the brakes.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Inner Steering Rod 1. Raise and support them front of the vehicle. 2. Matchmark the tie rod end to the steering rod. 3. Loosen the tie rod end locknut, then lightly retighten the locknut. 4. Position the steering rack so that whichever side is to be disassembled, the steering rack is as

fully extended as possible. 5. Remove the pleated accordion boot from the steering rack housing and slide the boot up the steering rod toward the outer tie rod end. 6. Use a chisel to open up the lock plate, then loosen the ball socket from the steering rack using BMW Tool No. 32 2 100 or an equivalent tool by turning it counterclockwise. 7. The tie rod ends can be removed from the knuckle at this time, then as a unit, turn them counterclockwise to remove the inner tie rod end from the steering rack. Then remove the inner and outer tie rod ends from one another using a suitable vise,

fWikteteoow: ie

&

counting the number of revolutions it takes to release them from one another. This will help to

retain a toe-in alignment base line for assembly. 8. Otherwise, rotate the inner bal! socket counterclockwise to remove it from the steering rack. Then loosen the locknut and count the number of revolutions needed to remove the inner steering rod from the outer tie rod end. To install: 9. Transfer the accordion pleated boot to the replacement inner steering rod, then transfer the outer tie rod end locknut. 10. Apply a light coating of an anti-seizing compound to the inner steering rod-to-outer tie rod end threads and thread the inner steering rod into the outer tie rod end the same number of revolutions as counted during removal. Then lightly tighten the outer tie rod end locknut. 11. Using a new locking washer, apply a thread locking agent to the steering rod ball socket-to-steering rack threads and tighten the steering rod to the rack using BMW Tool No. 32 2 100 or an equivalent tool. Tighten the tie rod joint to 54 ft. Ibs. (75 Nm). The boss must fit into the groove on the rack. Use pliers to bend the lock plate over the flats on the nut. 12. Install the accordion pleated boot to the steering rack housing. 13. If removed, install the outer tie rod end using a locking nut. Tighten the nut to 23-29 ft. lbs. (33-40 Nm). Do not use a locknut on a tie rod that has a hole for a cotter pin. If originally equipped with a locknut, use a new locknut for installation. e>lf the tapered outer tie rod spindle rotates when assembling, seat the spindle by rapping on the ball socket with a soft faced hammer, or use a C-clamp or a pair of locking needle-nose pliers to press the two together.

4. Loosen the tie rod end-to-spindle locknut, but do not fully remove.

5. Separate the tie rod end using a suitable tool, using the tool to press on the locknut to avoid damaging the threads.

6. Remove the locknut. If necessary, hold the spindle above the rubber boot. 7. Remove the tie rod end, turning it counterclockwise to remove it from the inner steering rod.

Count the number of revolutions it takes to release the tie rod end from the inner steering rod. This will help to retain a toe-in alignment base line for assembly. To install: 8. Apply a light coating of an anti-seizing compound to the inner steering rod-to-outer tie rod end threads and thread the outer tie rod end onto

93138P23

Fig. 78 A line wrench works well for stubborn steering rod-to-tie rod locknuts

14. Tighten the tie rod end-to-inner steering rod locknut.

15. Have the alignment checked and adjusted as necessary. Outer Tie Rod Ends

» See Figures 78, 79, 80, 81 and 82 1. Raise and support the front of the vehicle. 2. Matchmark the tie rod end to the steering rod.

3. Loosen the tie rod end locknut, and move the steering rod back and forth until it moves freely.

Fig. 79 Use a boxed end wrench to loosen and remove the tie rod end locknut

{

oS

Fig. 80 Use a tie rod end removal tool to separate the tie rod from the steering

Fig. 81 Loosen the locking nut before disconnecting the tie rod end from the steering knuckle, and move the steering rod back and forth with an open end wrench

knuckle

until it moves freely

90968P24

Fig. 82 During installation, if the tie rod end tapered spindle spins before the locknut is tight, squeeze the tie rod end into the steering knuckle with locking pliers

SUSPENSION AND STEERING the inner steering rod same number of revolutions as counted during removal. Then lightly tighten the outer tie rod end locknut. 9. Install the outer tie rod end using a locking nut. Tighten the nut to 23-29 ft. Ibs. (33-40 Nm). Do not use a locknut on a tie rod that has a hole for a cotter pin. If originally equipped with a locknut, use a new locknut for installation. elf the tapered outer tie rod spindle rotates when assembling, seat the spindle by rapping on the ball socket with a soft faced hammer, or use a C-clamp or a pair of locking needle-nose pliers to press the two together.

10. Tighten the tie rod end-to-inner steering rod locknut. 11. Have the alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.

Power Steering Gear REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

EXCEPT 325 IX MODELS > See Figures 83 and 84 1. Raise and support the front end of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the steering wheel. Remove the steering rack coupling bolt. Loosen the upper bolt so the coupling can be disconnected from the steering rack.

3. Remove the power steering fluid from the reservoir and discard. Disconnect and plug the fluid return line from the rack. Remove the pressure line hollow bolt from the rack and plug. 4. Disconnect the tie rods from the steering knuckles. Remove the steering rack mounting bolts. Note which holes the steering rack was mounted to. If equipped, disconnect the engine mounts located above the steering rack. 5, Raise the engine about 2 in. (50mm) and remove the steering rack. To install: 6. Install the steering gear. Use the rear holes in the crossmember, or the ones originally used, if not the rear holes. Lower the engine. 7. Tighten the steering gear bolts to 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm). Tighten the engine mount nuts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) for M8 bolts and 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm)

for M10 bolts. 8. Connect the tie rods to the steering knuckles and tighten the nuts to 23-29 ft. Ibs. (33-40 Nm). Do not use a locknut on a joint that has a hole for a cotter pin. If originally equipped with a locknut, use a new locknut for installation. 9. Connect the return line to the steering rack. Connect the pressure line to the steering rack using new crush washers. Tighten the hollow bolt to 7 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm) for M10 bolts and 14.5 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) for M12 bolts. 10. Align the mark on the steering rack shaft with the mark on the rack housing. Align the slot of the universal joint with the shaft and housing

marks. This is the centered position. Install the bolts and tighten to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm). 11. Install the steering wheel in the centered position.

8-21

84278021

Fig. 84 Place the spring washers between Steering coupling and joint—E30 3 Series

12. Fill and bleed the power steering reservoir. Have the alignment checked.

325 IX MODELS >To remove the steering gear on 4WD vehicles, use a special tool to support the engine via the body. It is also advisable to use a special tool to support the front axle carrier without damaging it. It is necessary to remove the entire front axle carrier to gain access to the mounting bolts for the steering gear on this

vehicle.

1. Raise the vehicle and support it securely. Remove the splash guard. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the air cleaner. Use a clean syringe to remove the power steering fluid from the pump reservoir.

19. Ring nut 22. Rack tube 24. Bearing sleeve 26. Support 30. Pressure piece 30.1 Plastic sheet inlet 31. Round seal 32. Spring 33. Spacer

34. Cover

35. Bolt §1. 56. 57. 58. 59. 60.

13. Round seal 14. Piston 15. Round seal

16. Piston ring 17. Round seal 18. Snapring

61. Bolt

d view ofrackassembly—E 3 30 Series Sy Pl

Radial oil seal Round seal Bearing race Radial oil seal Valve body Washer

ee

64. 81. 87. 88. 92.

Protective cap Valve body Round seal Seal Thrust washer

_

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

8-22

3. Attach the support tool and connect it to the engine hooks to be sure the engine is securely supported. 4. Remove the through bolts from the right and left engine mounts. 5. Disconnect both the hydraulic lines running from the power steering pump to the steering gear, and then plug the openings. 6. Loosen both the retaining bolts and then disconnect the steering column spindle off the steering gear. 7. Remove the retaining nuts on both sides and then press the tie rod ends off the steering knuckles with the proper tools. Be careful to keep grease out of the bores and off the tie rod ball

studs. 8. Remove the cotter pins, remove the retaining nuts on both sides and then use the proper tool to press the control arm ball joint studs out of the steering knuckles. Be careful to keep grease out of the bores and off the control arm ball studs. 9, Remove the bolts on either side attaching the control arm brackets to the body. 10. Remove the bolts and remove the stabilizer bar mounting brackets from the front axle carrier on both sides. 11. Support the front axle carrier with a suitable jacking device. Then, remove the mounting bolts on either side and remove the axle carrier. Remove the mounting bolts and remove the steering gear from the axle carrier. To install: 12. Install in reverse order, noting these points: a. Clean the bores into which the axle carrier bolts are mounted. Use some sort of locking sealer and tighten the bolts to 30 ft. Ibs. (41 N m). b. Tighten the mounting bolts holding the steering gear to front axle carrier to 30 ft. Ibs. (44 Nm). c. Install new cotter pins on the retaining nuts for the control arm ball studs. Tighten to 61.5 ft. Ibs. (84 Nm).

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Lhe

85

Bracket Body Face plate Rotor Shaft

6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

d. Replace the self-locking nuts on the tie rod end ball studs and connecting the steering column spindle to the steering box. Tighten tie rod ball stud nuts to 24-29 ft. Ibs. (33-40 Nm). e. Replace the gaskets on power steering hydraulic lines. 13. Refill the fluid reservoir with specified fluid. Idle the engine and turn the steering wheel back and forth until it has reached right and left lock 2 times each. Then, turn off the engine and refill the reservoir. E36 Models

1. Raise and support the front end of the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the steering wheel. Remove the steering rack coupling bolt. Loosen the upper bolt so the coupling can be disconnected from the steering rack. 3. Remove the power steering fluid from the reservoir and discard. Disconnect and plug the fluid return line from the rack. Remove the pressure line hollow bolt from the rack and plug. 4. Disconnect the tie rods from the steering knuckles. Remove the steering rack mounting bolts. Note which holes the steering rack was mounted to. If equipped, disconnect the engine mounts located above the steering rack. 5. Raise the engine about 2 in. (50mm) and remove the steering rack. To install: 6. Install the steering gear. Use the rear holes in the crossmember, or the ones originally used, if not the rear holes. Lower the engine. 7. Tighten the steering gear bolts to 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm). Tighten the engine mount nuts to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm) for M8 bolts and 30 ft. Ibs. (42 Nm) for M10 bolts. 8. Connect the tie rods to the steering knuckles and tighten the nuts to 23-29 ft. Ibs. (33-40 Nm). Do not use a locknut on a joint that has a hole for a cotter pin. If originally equipped with a locknut, use a new locknut for installation.

Snapring Radial oil seal Gasket Guide O-ring

odedview ofa typical power steering pump

9. Connect the return line to the steering rack. Connect the pressure line to the steering rack using new crush washers. Tighten the hollow bolt to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm) for M10 bolts and 14.5 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) for M12 bolts. 10. Align the mark on the steering rack shaft with the mark on the rack housing. Align the slot of the universal joint with the shaft and housing marks. This is the centered position. Install the bolts and tighten to 16 ft. Ibs. (22 Nm). 11. Install the steering wheel in the centered position. 12. Fill and bleed the power steering reservoir. Have the alignment checked.

Power Steering Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 85 and 86 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Release the pressure from the reservoir. 2. Remove the power steering belt. For details refer to Section 1. 3. Place a drain pan under the reservoir and the pump. 4. Siphon the hydraulic fluid from the pump reservoir. Disconnect and plug the hydraulic lines. 5. Disconnect and plug the hydraulic lines. ~ Remove the bolts and loosen the nuts to turn the adjusting pinion. 6. Remove the drive belt. 7. Remove the bolts from the brackets holding the pump and remove the pump assembly. To install: 8. Installation is in reverse order of removal. If equipped, tighten the adjusting pinion to 6 ft. Ibs. (8 Nm). 9. If equipped with a tandem pump, the removal and installation procedure is the same. 10. Bleed the power steering system.

SUSPENSION AND STEERING

8-23

Do not wear loose clothing or anything that may interfere with moving engine parts.

90968P78

Fig. 86 The power steering pump is located under the alternator. The reservoir is shown with the air box removed

6. Use the filler cap dipstick and check the fluid level with the engine running and top up as necessary, the reinstall the reservoir cap. 7. Turn the steering full lock left, then full lock right and recheck the fluid level and check the fluid level with the engine running. Top up the fluid as necessary, the reinstall the reservoir cap. 8. Turn the steering full lock left, then full lock

right, then full lock left, then full lock right at least two times in succession and recheck the fluid level and check the fluid level with the engine running. Top up as necessary, the reinstall the reservoir cap.

90961P48

Fig. 88 The fluid requirements are cast into the filler cap. This system uses ATF Dexron Ill

SYSTEM BLEEDING > See Figures 87, 88 and 89 1, Apply the parking brake and block the rear wheels. 2. Locate the reservoir in the left front area of the engine compartment. On some models, the air box may need to be moved aside slightly, however the engine must be running to check properly. 3. Wipe off the reservoir cap and surrounding area. No debris or contaminants are allowed to enter the system. 4. Fill the reservoir up to the upper level mark with the recommended fluid before starting the engine. The fluid requirements are cast into the reservoir cap. Typically the system calls for ATF Dexron Ill. 5. Install the filler cap and start the engine.

y

me

j

:

= Maximum ey

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90961P46

Fig. 87 Clean the area around the power steering reservoir before removing the cap. No dirt or debris is allowed to enter the power steering system

90961P84

Fig. 89 Fill the reservoir up to the recommended maximum level with the recommended fluid before starting the engine

8-24

SUSPENSION AND STEERING TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Component Air bag to steering wheel: Control arm to subtrame E30 3 Series 2 wheel drive: 4 wheel drive: E36 3 Series: Control arm to strut E30 3 Series 2 wheel drive: 4 wheel drive: Control arm bushing bracket to subframe: Connecting pipe to body: Connecting pipe support to body: Idler arm to subframe M10 bolt: M12 bolt: Power steering pump bracket to engine: Power steering hose connections M14 bolt: M16 bolt: Rear shock absorber to trailing arm Except 10.9 bolt: 10.9 bolt: Rear shock absorber mounts: Strut mount to body: Strut to strut mount: Strut gland nut: Stabilizer bar mount to body: Stabilizer bar link to strut or control arm: Stabilizer bar link pivot to control arm: Steering knuckle to strut E30 M3: Steering knuckle to control arm E30 M3: i Steering column disk and joint bolts: Steering wheel nut: . Steering gear to subframe M10 bolt: . Mi2bolt:

Metric 10 Nm

61 ft. Ibs. 72 ft. Ibs.

85 Nm 100 Nm

25 ft. Ibs. 29 ft. Ibs.

35 Nm 40 Nm

ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. lbs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs.

87 Nm 130 Nm 22 Nm 22 Nm 65 Nm 130 Nm 22 Nm 59 Nm 42 Nm

22 ft. Ibs.

30 Nm

48 ft. Ibs. 16 ft. Ibs. 58 ft. Ibs.

64 Nm 22 Nm 80 Nm

30 ft. Ibs. 52-64 ft. Ibs. 20 ft. Ibs. 30 ft. Ibs. 43 ft. Ibs.

42 Nm 72-88 Nm 27 Nm 42 Nm 59 Nm 47 Nm 42 Nm 77 Nm

23-29 ft. Ibs.

33-40 Nm

92 ft. Ibs.

127 Nm

54 ft. Ibs. l0 ft.lbs. 67 ft. Ibs.

Thrust arm to connecting pipe: Wheels

Lug bolts:

_2.wheel drive:

4 wheel drive:

wv"

65-79 ft.Ibs.

26.5 inch Ibs.

.

.

34 ft. Ibs. 30 ft. Ibs. 56 ft. Ibs.

Tie rod adjustment nuts: Thrust arm to steering knuckle:

Vane bolts: Wheel hub nut

65 Nm 85 Nm 42 Nm 127 Nm 59 Nm

42 Nm 72-88 Nm 22 Nm

Tie rod to rack:

a

ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs. ft. Ibs.

30 ft. Ibs. 52-64 ft. Ibs 16 ft. Ibs.

;

Tie rod stud nuts:

at

85 Nm

63 94 16 16 47 94 16 43 30

Steering gear oil drain plug: Steering arm to steering gear: Subframe to body ~ M10 9.8 bolts: M10 8.8 bolts: mM TR:

ug

61 ft. Ibs. 47 62 30 92 42

Steering gear adjusting locknut:

aa

English 84 inch Ibs.

75 Nm 14Nm 93 Nm

pal tee

—90-110NM

3Nm — ia =e es...) 3 +,

:

210 ft. Ibs.

po

IBIAS Hh oa

290Nm

250 Nm_ eG “oe

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BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM 9-2 BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES 9-2 DISC BRAKES

9-2

DRUM BRAKES 9-2 POWER BOOSTERS 9-3 BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH 9-3 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-3 ADJUSTMENT 9-3 MASTER CYLINDER 9-3 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-3 POWER BRAKE BOOSTER 9-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-4 BRAKE FORCE REGULATOR VALVE 9-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-4 BRAKE HOSES AND PIPES 9-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-5 BLEEDING THE BRAKE SYSTEM 9-5 FRONT DISC BRAKES 9-6 BRAKE PADS 9-6 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-6 INSPECTION 9-8 BRAKE CALIPER 9-8 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-8 OVERHAUL 9-9 BRAKE DISC (ROTOR) 9-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-10 INSPECTION 9-11 REAR DISC BRAKES 9-12 BRAKE PADS 9-12 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-12 INSPECTION 9-13 BRAKE CALIPER 9-13 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-13 OVERHAUL 9-14 COMBINATION ROTOR/PARKING BRAKE DRUM 9-14 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-14 INSPECTION 9-15 PARKING BRAKE 9-15 CABLES 9-15 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-15 ADJUSTMENT 9-16 BURNISHING 9-16 PARKING BRAKE SHOES 9-16 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-16 ADJUSTMENT 9-17 ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS) 9-17 GENERAL INFORMATION 9-17 DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING 9-17 IMPULSE (WHEEL SPEED) SENSORS 9-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-18 TONE (EXCITER) RING 9-18 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-18 ABS CONTROL UNIT 9-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-19 HYDRAULIC UNIT 9-19 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-19 BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL SENSOR 9-19

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-19 BLEEDING THE ABS SYSTEM 9-20 SPECIFICATIONS CHART BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS 9-21

BRAKES BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM FRONT DISC BRAKES REAR DISC BRAKES PARKING BRAKE ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS)

9-2 9-6 9-12 9-15 9-17

9-2

BRAKES

a

BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM Basic Operating Principles Hydraulic systems are used to actuate the brakes of all modern automobiles. The system transports the power required to force the frictional surfaces of the braking system together from the pedal to the individual brake units at each wheel. A hydraulic system is used for two reasons. First, fluid under pressure can be carried to all parts of an automobile by small pipes and flexible hoses without taking up a significant amount of room or posing routing problems. Second, a great mechanical advantage can be given to the brake pedal end of the system, and the foot pressure required to actuate the brakes can be reduced by making the surface area of the master cylinder pistons smaller than that of any of the pistons in the wheel cylinders or calipers. The master cylinder consists of a fluid reservoir along with a double cylinder and piston assembly. Double type master cylinders are designed to separate the front and rear braking systems hydraulically in case of a leak. The master cylinder coverts mechanical motion from the pedal into hydraulic pressure within the lines. This pressure is translated back into mechanical motion at the wheels by either the wheel cylinder (drum brakes) or the caliper (disc brakes). Steel lines carry the brake fluid to a point on the vehicle's frame near each of the vehicle's wheels. The fluid is then carried to the calipers and wheel cylinders by flexible tubes in order to allow for suspension and steering movements. In drum brake systems, each wheel cylinder contains two pistons, one at either end, which push outward in opposite directions and force the brake shoe into contact with the drum. In disc brake systems, the cylinders are part of the calipers. At least one cylinder in each caliper is used to force the brake pads against the disc. All pistons employ some type of seal, usually made of rubber, to minimize fluid leakage. A rubber dust boot seals the outer end of the cylinder against dust and dirt. The boot fits around the outer end of the piston on disc brake calipers, and around the brake actuating rod on wheel cylinders. The hydraulic system operates as follows: When at rest, the entire system, from the piston(s) in the master cylinder to those in the wheel cylinders or calipers, is full of brake fluid. Upon application of the brake pedal, fluid trapped in front of the master cylinder piston(s) is forced through the lines to the wheel cylinders. Here, it forces the pistons outward, in the case of drum brakes, and inward toward the disc, in the case of disc brakes. The motion of the pistons is opposed by return springs mounted outside the cylinders in drum brakes, and by spring

_ seals, in disc brakes. Upon release of the brake pedal, a spring located inside the.master cylinder immediately returns the master cylinder pistons to the normal position. The

pistons contain check valves and the master cylinder has compensating ports drilled in it. These are uncovered as the pistons reach their normal posi_tion. The piston check valves allow fluid to flow oward the wheel cylinders or calipers as the piswithdraw. Then, asthe return springs force the

danahi or shoesinto fata, position, the.

excess fluid reservoir through the compensating ports. It is during the time the pedal is in the released position that any fluid that has leaked out of the system will be replaced through the compensating ports. Dual circuit master cylinders employ two pistons, located one behind the other, in the same cylinder. The primary piston is actuated directly by mechanical linkage from the brake pedal through the power booster. The secondary piston is actuated by fluid trapped between the two pistons. If a leak develops in front of the secondary piston, it moves forward until it bottoms against the front of the master cylinder, and the fluid trapped between the pistons will operate the rear brakes. If the rear brakes develop a leak, the primary piston will move forward until direct contact with the sec-

ondary piston takes place, and it will force the secondary piston to actuate the front brakes. In either case, the brake pedal moves farther when the brakes are applied, and less braking power is available. All dual circuit systems use a switch to warn the driver when only half of the brake system is operational. This switch is usually located in a valve body which is mounted on the firewall or the frame below the master cylinder. A hydraulic piston receives pressure from both circuits, each circuit's pressure being applied to one end of the piston. When the pressures are in balance, the piston remains stationary. When one circuit has a leak, however, the greater pressure in that circuit during application of the brakes will push the piston to one side, closing the switch and activating the brake warning light. In disc brake systems, this valve body also contains a metering valve and, in some cases, a proportioning valve. The metering valve keeps pressure from traveling to the disc brakes on the front wheels until the brake shoes on the rear wheels have contacted the drums, ensuring that the front brakes will never be used alone. The proportioning valve controls the pressure to the rear brakes to lessen the chance of rear wheel lock-up during very hard braking. Warning lights may be tested by depressing the brake pedal and holding it while opening one of the wheel cylinder bleeder screws. If this does not cause the light to go on, substitute a new lamp, make continuity checks, and, finally, replace the switch as necessary. The hydraulic system may be checked for leaks by applying pressure to the pedal gradually and steadily. If the pedal sinks very slowly to the floor, the system has a leak. This is not to be confused with a springy or spongy feel due to the compression of air within the lines. If the system leaks, there will be a gradual change in the position of the pedal with a constant pressure. Check for leaks along all lines and at wheel cylinders. If no external leaks are apparent, the problem is inside the master cylinder.

DISC BRAKES

tioned on either side of it. An easily-seen analogy is the hand brake arrangement on a bicycle. The pads squeeze onto the rim of the bike wheel, slowing its motion. Automobile disc brakes use the identical principle but apply the braking effort to a separate disc instead of the wheel. The disc (rotor) is a casting, usually equipped with cooling fins between the two braking surfaces. This enables air to circulate between the braking surfaces making them less sensitive to heat buildup and more resistant to fade. Dirt and water do not drastically affect braking action since contaminants are thrown off by the centrifugal action of the rotor or scraped off the by the pads. Also, the equal clamping action of the two brake pads tends to ensure uniform, straight line stops. Disc brakes are inherently self-adjusting. There are three general types of disc brake: 1. A fixed caliper. 2. A floating caliper. 3. A sliding caliper. The fixed caliper design uses two pistons mounted on either side of the rotor (in each side of the caliper). The caliper is mounted rigidly and does not move. The sliding and floating designs are quite similar. In fact, these two types are often lumped together. In both designs, the pad on the inside of the rotor is moved into contact with the rotor by hydraulic force. The caliper, which is not held in a fixed position, moves slightly, bringing the outside pad into contact with the rotor. There are various methods of attaching floating calipers. Some pivot at the bottom or top, and some slide on mounting bolts. In any event, the end result is the same.

DRUM BRAKES Drum brakes employ two brake shoes mounted on a stationary backing plate. These shoes are positioned inside a circular drum which rotates with the wheel assembly. The shoes are held in place by springs. This allows them to slide toward the drums (when they are applied) while keeping the linings and drums in alignment. The shoes are actuated by a wheel cylinder which is mounted at the top of the backing plate. When the brakes are applied, hydraulic pressure forces the wheel cylinder's actuating links outward. Since these links bear directly against the top of the brake shoes, the tops of the shoes are then forced against the inner side of the

drum. This action forces the bottoms of the two shoes to contact the brake drum by rotating the entire assembly slightly (known as servo action).

When pressure within the wheel cylinderis relaxed, return springs pull the shoes back away from the drum.

Most modern drum brakes are designedto

adjust themselves during application vehicle is moving in reverse. T

rocking an adjusting lev of the adjusting screw.

are designed to self-ad : whenever the brakes

Instead of the traditional expanding brakes that press outward. against a circular drum, disc b ‘ esc adi scaie!) with|

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BRAKES a

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POWER BOOSTERS Virtually all modern vehicles use a vacuum assisted power brake system to multiply the braking force and reduce pedal effort. Since vacuum is available especially during deceleration when the engine is operating, the system is simple and efficient. A vacuum diaphragm is located on the front of the master cylinder and assists the driver in applying the brakes, reducing both the effort and travel he must put into moving the brake pedal. The vacuum diaphragm housing is normally connected to the intake manifold by a vacuum hose. A check valve is placed at the point where the hose enters the diaphragm housing, so that during periods of low manifold vacuum brakes assist will not be lost. Depressing the brake pedal closes off the vacuum source and allows atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of the diaphragm. This causes the master cylinder pistons to move and apply the brakes. When the brake pedal is released, vacuum is applied to both sides of the diaphragm and springs return the diaphragm and master cylinder pistons to the released position. If the vacuum supply fails, the brake pedal rod will contact the end of the master cylinder actuator rod and the system will apply the brakes without any power assistance. The driver will notice that much higher pedal effort is needed to stop the car and that the pedal feels harder than usual.

Vacuum Leak Test

1. Operate the engine at idle without touching the brake pedal for at least one minute. 2. Turn off the engine and wait one minute. 3. Test for the presence of assist vacuum by depressing the brake pedal and releasing it several times. If vacuum is present in the system, light application will produce less and less pedal travel. If there is no vacuum, air is leaking into the system.

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Brake Light Switch The brake light switch is located at brake pedal. There are different styles of switches. If there is a single threaded body switch, the switch will need to be manually adjusted. If the body is not threaded, it only has to be adjusted once during installation. If there are 2 switches at the brake pedal, one threaded and one that is not, the non-threaded unit operates the brake lights and the threaded body switch is the test switch.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figure 1 Threaded Body 1. Remove the lower dashboard trim to access the brake light switch. 2. Pull the wire connectors off the switch. 3. Loosen the switch locknuts and thread the switch out of the holder. 4. Install in reverse order. Adjust the switch to achieve '%a inches (6mm) distance from the pedal to the edge of the switch threads. 5. Connect the wires and install the trim. Non-Threaded Body

1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the brake light switch. 2. Press the brake pedal and hold down. Pull the plunger and sleeve of the brake switch forward and pull the switch out of the holder. 3. Depress and hold the brake pedal down. Pull the sleeve and plunger to the full out position. Install in the holder and slowly release the brake pedal. This will automatically adjust the switch position. 4. Connect the harness plug.

System Operation Test 1. With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal until the supply vacuum is entirely gone. 2. Put light, steady pressure on the brake pedal. 3. Start the engine and let it idle. If the system is operating correctly, the brake pedal should fall toward the floor if the constant pressure is maintained. Power brake systems may be tested for hydraulic leaks just as ordinary systems are tested.

!

4

t4

«2 WARNING Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is nvVeC from the system should be dis-

Fig. 1 The pedal height is measured from the bottom face of the pedal to the firewall. The brake switch adjustment is

shown as “B”

EE TIS YSSEU EPEI

OMS,

SERPS TS EST

9-3 Se

ADJUSTMENT Threaded Body 1. Remove the lower dashboard trim to access

the brake light switch. 2. Pull the wire connectors off the switch. 3. Loosen the switch locknuts. 4. Adjust the switch to achieve 5a inches (6mm) distance from the pedal to the edge of the switch threads.

Non-Threaded Body 1. Disconnect the wiring harness from the brake light switch. 2. Press the brake pedal and hold down. Pull the plunger and sleeve of the brake switch forward and pull the switch out of the holder. 3. Depress and hold the brake pedal down. Pull the sleeve and plunger to the full out position. Install in the holder and slowly release the brake pedal. This will automatically adjust the switch position. 4. Connect the harness plug.

Master Cylinder, REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 2, 3 and 4 elf the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a BMW dealer.

1. Remove the brake fluid from the reservoir using a siphon or clean baster-type tool. If equipped, disconnect the clutch hose from the reservoir. The clutch hose may have a crimped clamp securing it to the reservoir. Insert a small flat blade prytool through the opening on the side of the clamp and move the screwdriver side-to-side to open the clamp, then slide the clamp toward the reservoir and ease the off the hose. Clean all the brake line connections. 2. If equipped, remove the reservoir-to-master cylinder mounting fastener from the right side (engine side) of the master cylinder, then carefully — - remove the reservoir from the master cylinder. A trim panel removal tool works well to help remove the reservoir spigots from the master cylinder Orings. On the E36 models, turn the ignition switch OFF and detach the harness connectors next to the master cylinder to gain more working room. 3. Using a line or flare wrench, remove the line connections from the master cylinder. Plug the lines to avoid contamination from debris. 4, Remove the mounting nuts and remove the master cylinder from the booster, taking care to no lose the O-ring. To install: 5. Check the condition of the O-ring at the mounting flange of the master cylinder. Clean the mounting surfaces. 6. Install the master cylinder and torque the

nuts to 14.5 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm). 7. Install the brake lines and torque the yack pf tions to 10 ft. Ibs. (14.2 Nm). Connect the harness— connectors on the E36 sel i

9-4

BRAKES 1. Date code 2. Reduction

* 3. Switching pressure

;

be

. Piston cup . Piston

NE = RSA

. Piston cup . Contact cap

1

fe 3

Fluid chamber, circuit 1, FR/RL

4

@)

3 84279003

84279002

Fig. 5 Brake force regulator valve

90961P18

Fig. 3 The fluid reservoir is installed directly onto the brake master cylinder

93139P54

Fig. 4 Use a line wrench when loosening or tightening a brake line flare nut for the master cylinder

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir and discard. 2. Remove the reservoir and if equipped, disconnect the clutch hydraulic hose. 3. Disconnect all brake lines from the master cylinder. 4. Remove the instrument panel trim from the bottom/left inside the passenger compartment. 5. Remove the return spring from the brake pedal. Press off the clip and remove the pin which connects the booster rod to the brake pedal. 6. Remove the 4 nuts and pull the booster and master cylinder off in the engine compartment. To install: 7. |f the filter in the brake booster is clogged, it will have to be cleaned. To do this, remove the dust boot, retainer, damper, and filter, and clean the damper and filter. Make sure when reinstalling, that the slots in the damper and filter are offset 180 degrees. 8. Install the brake booster and torque the nuts to 16-17 ft. Ibs. (22-24 Nm). Connect the brake lines and torque to 10 ft. Ibs. (14.2 Nm). 9. Connect the reservoir and lines. Connect the brake pedal to the pushrod. Adjust the pedal height. Adjust the brake light switch. Fill and bleed the system.

Brake Force Regulator Valve REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figure 5

8. Thoroughly clean the reservoir with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, then lubricate the spigots and O-rings with a light coating of clean brake fluid and install the reservoir. If equipped, install the clutch hose and secure with a new clamp. Fill the reservoir with fresh and an approved brake fluid and bleed the system as outlined in this section.

Power Brake Booster

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION whe

__peif the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the _ BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability _ issues, this job should only be performed by a

BMW dealer.

;

5

a

e>if the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a BMW dealer.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the hydraulic fluid from the master cylinder with a syringe or hose used only with clean brake fluid. 2. Disconnect the brake lines at the top and bottom of the proportioning valve. 3. Remove the clamp from the valve and detach the pressure connection at the union. 4. Check day/year codes, reduction factor, and switch-over pressure to make sure the new valve is identical. 5. Install in reverse order. Bleed the system.

Brake Hoses and Pipes » See Figures 6, 7 and 8 Metal lines and rubber brake hoses should be checked frequently for leaks and external damage. Metal lines are particularly prone to crushing and kinking under the vehicle. Any such deformation can restrict the proper flow of fluid and therefore impair braking at the wheels. The flexible rubber hoses should be checked for cracking or scraping; such damage can create a weak spot in the hose and it could fail under pressure. The flexible rubber hoses are also susceptible to collapsing internally causing a restriction in the fluid flow. If when bleeding the brakes, the fluid flow seems restricted or excessive pedal pressure is needed to depress the brake pedal, the fluid line may be internally restricted. Any time the lines are removed or disconnected, extreme cleanliness must be observed. Clean all joints and connections before disassembly (use a stiff bristle brush and clean brake fluid); be sure to plug the lines and ports as soon as they are opened. New lines and hoses should be flushed clean with brake fluid before installation to remove any contamination. A brake pedal with a spongy feel can be caused by fatigued flexible rubber hoses, which under pressure expand. This can sometimes be felt by having an assistant press and release the brake pedal while squeezing the flexible line by hand and feeling for the line to swell when the brake is applied. For off road closed course use many enthusiasts replace the rubber flexible lines with braided steel

BRAKES = 9-5

90968P80

Fig. 7 Metal brake lines are attached to flexible lines and the junction supported by a bracket. Flexible lines are used where movement is necessary

3. Remove any wheel and tire assemblies necessary for access to the particular line you are removing. 4. Thoroughly clean the surrounding area at the joints to be disconnected with brake cleaner. 5, Place a suitable catch pan under the joint to be disconnected. 6. Using two line wrenches, if available, (one to hold the joint and one to turn the fitting), disconnect the hose or line to be replaced. If at first the metal line begins to turn with the flare nut, spray the area with a rust penetrating lubricant and allow to soak in. Slowly loosen and tighten the flare nut until the metal line breaks loose from the flare nut. If necessary, hold the metal line with a very small pair of gooseneck pliers, but do not crimp or crease the line. Move the flare wrench back and forth in small movements until the flare nut can move without twisting the metal line.

TCCA9P11

Fig. 11 Any gaskets/crush washers should be replaced with new ones during installation

7. Disconnect the other end of the line or hose, moving the drain pan if necessary. Always use a back-up wrench to avoid damaging the fitting. 8. Disconnect any retaining clips or brackets holding the line and remove the line from the vehicle. elf the brake system is to remain open for more time than it takes to swap lines, tape or plug each remaining clip and port to keep contaminants out and fluid in.

90963PB6 Fig. 8 The flexible hose for the clutch slave cylinder is crimped onto a fitting with a metal line and flare nut

To install: 9. Install the new line or hose, starting with the end farthest from the master cylinder. Connect the other end, then confirm that both fittings are correctly threaded and turn smoothly using finger pressure. Make sure the new line will not rub against any other part. Brake lines must be at least 1/2 in.

flexible brake lines. This typically improves the brake pedal feel and lessens the chance of a spongy pedal, however there may be restrictions and other concerns that must be addressed for general street use. Before replacing the flexible brake lines on your vehicle, consult the laws concerning state inspection, and the brake line manufacturer for their recommendations.

BMW replacement part.

TCCA9PO9

Fig. 9 Use a brush to clean the fittings of any debris

» See Figures 9, 10, 11 and 12 elf the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a

BMW dealer.

When removing or installing the brake pipes, line or hoses, always use a backup wrench on the fitting to prevent twisting. Avoid bending the lines or damaging the coating. Use a tubing bender if the line needs to be bent. Use pre-made lines with the flare already constructed. Torque all fittings to 10 ft. Ibs. (14.2 Nm). 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on * al

ae.A

(13mm) from the steering column and other moving parts. Any protective shielding or insulators must be reinstalled in the original location.

Make sure the hose is NOT kinked or touching any part of the frame or suspension after installation. These conditions may cause the hose to fail prematurely. If bending is necessary, use a round wooden dowel or a sealed metal aerosol container to form the line as necessary.

e>For liability reasons, it is suggested that if a flexible brake line must be replaced, replace the brake line(s) with an original equipment

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

TCCA9P12

Fig. 12 Tape or plug the line to prevent contamination

10. Using two wrenches as before, tighten each fitting. 11. Install any retaining clips or brackets on the lines. 12. If removed, install the wheel and tire assemblies, then carefully lower the vehicle to the ground. 13. Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir with clean, fresh approved brake fluid, meeting DOT 4 specifications and bleed the brake system as outlined in this section. 14. Connect the negative battery cable.

Bleeding The Brake System Please refer to Bleeding the ABS System for brake bleeding procedures. TCCA9P10

Fig. 10 Use two wrenches to loosen the

fitting. If available, use flare nut type wrenches

elf the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a BMW dealer.

9-6

BRAKES

el

FRONT DISC BRAKES ¢ Replace any component(s) that are not within tolerance

» See Figures 13 and 14

*¢ CAUTION

>

Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid. The 3 series and Z3 series BMW disc brakes are a sliding caliper type disc brake system. The brake systems used by BMW are subjected to rigorous testing and must meet stringent DIN industry standards. The components of the brake system are designed to be compatible with one another. Aside from steel braided hydraulic brake lines, different brake pad compounds and the addition of improved cooling ducts, there is very little that can be done to improve the performance and reliability of the original equipment brakes short of upgrading the entire brake system. When replacing or repairing the brake components, for reasons of safety and liability, use original equipment components that meet BMW

standards. If the vehicle is used for sporting events or closed course competition: e Inspect the brake components before each event e Flush the brake fluid at lease every 90 days

Brake

Pads

Tensioning

/ Spring: +]

~ Caliper “a—

Bracket 90969P41

Fig. 13 The front brake caliper is a single piston, sliding caliper design

CAUTION

The hardware used to mount the brake components to the suspension is a special design and grade of hardness. Substitution of brake related mounting fasteners is not recommended. SS

I

SE

There are many high performance upgrades available for BMW's from reputable vendors, however their cost may not be justified unless the vehicle is to be used for competition purposes and may not be practical for street use. If an aftermarket

brake system is being considered, make sure it will fit with the existing wheels and suspension components. If the vehicle is to be used for competition purposes, check the rules carefully, as some classes have specific instructions as to what can and can’t be replaced or modified. Brakes generate a great deal of heat and under severe use, could shorten the life of items such as ‘ wheel bearings or other related suspension components. Because of the heat generated by the brakes, BMW does not recommend the use of brake dust shields. These shields mount between the wheel and the hub, blocking the flow of cooling air that is needed to dissipate the heat generated by the brakes. Air flow must be maintained through the wheel to prevent component damage, premature wear and brake fade. There are many sources of brake pads available for today’s vehicles. Brake lining materials used include carbon, metallic, and most recently, ceramic compounds. The ceramic compounds claim to create less noticeable black brake dust which along with brake squeal has been a common industry complaint since the removal of asbestos as a brake lining material. There are tradeoffs which one must consider. A brake pad that has an extended service life is usually a hard compound that may offer excellent performance and durability at the expense of increased brake rotor wear, and is more likely to emit a brake squeal noises on light braking. Soft brake pads are less likely to squeal, but wear more quickly and may not offer the performance some drivers expect from their brakes. If deviating from the original equipment pads, seek the advice of those who have tried them. Otherwise, use original equipment brake linings. Consult your local BMW dealer for their recommendations and by all means, NEVER compromise safety for any reason.

3. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. 4. Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor from the harness. 5. Hold the flats of the pin slide and remove the lower pivot bolt. 6. Rotate the caliper up and remove the brake pads, To install: 7. Clean the brake caliper and all sliding surfaces. Press the caliper piston fully back into the caliper housing. Check for leaking fluid, damaged dust boots and frozen pistons. 8. Install a new brake pad wear sensor in the pad if the plastic part has been worn through on the old sensor. New sensors are not required unless the wire inside the plastic part has been exposed. 9. Install the brake pads in the caliper mount. Lower the caliper over the brake pads. Install a new bolt and torque to 25 ft. Ibs. (35 Nm). Check that the pad springs are correctly seated. 10. Connect the brake pad wear sensor to the harness. Check for a good connection as most problems with the sensor circuit are caused by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by the loop in the dust cover and the connector is held - at the clips. 11. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to

66-81 ft. Ibs. (90-110 Nm).

+ WARNING Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence could cause a brake pulsation and rotor warpage. E36 Models

> See Figures 13 thru 27 1. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake. 2. Loosen the front wheel bolts ¥ of a turn. 3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels.

Brake Pads

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models > See Figures 13 thru 27 90969P32

Fig. 14 The brake caliper is bolted onto the caliper bracket which is bolted onto the steering knuckle

1. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake. 2. Loosen the front wheel bolts ¥% of a turn.

Fig. 15 Use a suitable prytool to move the tensioning spring and release it from the brake caliper ~

BRAKES

9-7

84279015

90969P23

90969P22

Fig. 16 Remove the protective caps to access the caliper mounting fasteners

Fig. 17 Rock the caliper back and forth several times, then slide it along with the inner brake pad away from the brake rotor

Fig. 18 The inner brake pad has spring clips that hold the brake pad onto the piston, the outer pad is installed on the caliper bracket

84279014

84279013

90969P13

Fig. 19 The outer brake pad is removed or installed by sliding it out of the caliper mounting bracket

Fig. 20 Press the brake caliper piston into the caliper using a suitable C-clamp,

Diane

90969P19

Fig. 22 Apply a light coat of an anti-seiz-

ing compound to the metal backing of the brake pads where the contact the caliper bracket

Fig. 25 Apply a light coat of an anti-seizing compound to the portion of the brake caliper that contacts the back of the outer brake pad. The outline of the caliper contact area is clearly visible

Fig. 21. . . use a tool designed specifiCally for the job

90969P42

Fig. 23 Apply a light coat of an anti-seizing compound to the caliper bracket where is contacts the metal locating tabs of the brake pads

90969P20

Fig. 24 Apply a light coat of an anti-seizing compound to the raised rectangles on the outer portion of the brake caliper

93139P18

Fig. 26 Apply a light coating of a suitable high temperature brake caliper grease to the smooth surface of the caliper guide

wrench to ensure proper installation of the

bolt

Caliper slide bolts

84279010

Fig. 27 Use a hex socket and a torque

9-8

BRAKES

[ick WARNING Replace the brake pads on one wheel at a time. If both calipers are removed, when one caliper piston is pressed in, there is a likely chance the other piston will be forced

out of its caliper. This could damage the seals, caliper and/or piston, and will require the system to be bled before completion. 4. \f equipped, disconnect the brake pad wear sensor from the harness. 5. Using a suitable prytool, carefully move the tensioning spring toward the brake caliper to release the two retaining tabs and remove the spring. 6. Remove the two plastic plugs from the caliper slide bolts and using a 7mm hex tool,

remove the slider bolts. 7. Rock the caliper assembly side-to-side several times and then carefully remove the caliper along with the inner brake pad from the brake rotor. 8. Support the caliper with mechanic's wire to avoid damaging the brake hose. 9. Remove the outer brake pad from the caliper mounting bracket. To install: 10. Clean the brake caliper and all sliding surfaces. Using a suitable brake cleaner, clean the caliper and the caliper piston. If possible, carefully remove the dust boot and clean the area around the caliper thoroughly with brake cleaner. Apply a light coating of an approved brake caliper piston grease around the exposed brake piston-to-caliper bore area of the brake piston, then reinstall the boot. If the boot is damaged or brittle, it should be replaced. If a boot is not readily available, and the boot is brittle or torn, do not attempt to remove it, however, replace the boot at the earliest convenience. If the boot is torn, thoroughly flush the area with brake cleaner, before pressing the caliper piston back. 11. Using a brake piston tool or a suitable Cclamp, press the brake caliper piston into the caliper body. Make sure to push slowly and evenly. If using a C-clamp, make sure the pad on the threaded end of the clamp is able to enter the cavity of the caliper piston. Do not force the piston back. 12. If the brake piston is difficult to press back: a. The brake piston may have corroded with the brake caliper bore and the caliper will need to be replaced or rebuilt. b. The flexible hydraulic brake line has collapsed and must be replaced. Temporarily reinstall the brake pads and caliper and attempt to bleed that brake caliper. If excessive pedal pressure is felt and/or the fluid barely flows during bleeding, it is quite likely that brake hydraulic hose has collapsed. 13. Press the caliper piston fully back into the caliper housing. Check for leaking fluid, damaged dust boots and frozen pistons. 14. If equipped, install a new brake pad wear sensor in the pad if the plastic part has been worn through on the old sensor. New sensors are not required unless the wire inside the plastic part has been exposed. Then, connect the brake pad wear sensor to the harness. Check for a good connection 4S most problems with the sensor circuit are caused

_ by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by ie the loop inthe dust cover andthe connector is held

15. Install the brake pads in the caliper. Lower the caliper over the caliper mount. Install the slider bolts and torque to 18~22 ft. Ibs. (25-30 Nm). Install the protective caps and the retainer spring. 16. Repeat the above procedures for the brake pads on the opposite wheel. 17. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to 66-81 ft.

BAAN t

lbs. (90-110 Nm).

BACKING PLATE 93139608

Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence could cause a brake pulsation and rotor warpage. 18. Press the brake pedal down slowly about 2 inches (50mm), then slowly release. Continue to press and release the brake pedal in slow even 2 inch (50mm) strokes until the pedal is firm.

INSPECTION > See Figure 28 1. Check the pad for thickness. The minimum friction material thickness is: e E30 models: 0.079 inches (2.0mm) e E36 models: 0.118 inches (3.0mm) 2. Check the condition of the brake friction material. Replace the brake pads if: e The friction material is cracking e The friction material is contaminated by oil or another fluid e The friction material is coming loose from the backing plate 3. Check the pattern of wear of the friction material. If the pads are wearing unevenly or on an angle, there may be a problem with the caliper hanging up on its slides. Clean and lubricate them as necessary. 4. Ifthe inside pad is worn more than the outside pad, the caliper may be seized on the sliding pins. Clean and lubricate the pins and check for free movement of the caliper. 5. If the brake pads from one caliper are worn significantly more than those from the caliper on the opposite side of the vehicle: e The caliper with the unworn pads may be completely frozen. Check the piston to see if it retracts smoothly. Check to see if the dust boot is intact. The caliper with the unworn pads may have an internally blocked brake line. Check to see if the piston will retract smoothly and try bleeding the caliper to see if the fluid flow is restricted. The caliper with the excessively worn pads may be binding and not releasing. Check that the piston retracts smoothly and that the dust boot is intact. The caliper with the excessively worn pads may not be releasing. The caliper may have a restricted flexible brake line. Check to see if the piston will retract smoothly and try bleeding the caliper to see if the fluid flow is restricted.

If a problem is suspected, repair or replace the components) as percnsse ye

Fig. 28 To check the brake pad for wear, measure the lining thickness

To check for a binding or a caliper that fails to release sufficiently: 6. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 7. Put the vehicle in neutral with the ignition OFF and the parking brake released. 8. With the help of an assistant, have them apply the foot brake while attempting to rotate a wheel. The wheel should not be able to be rotated. 9. Have the assistant release the foot brake. The wheel should rotate freely, although on the rear wheels and the front wheels of the 325iX some smooth mechanical resistance may be felt as the axle(s) and/or drive shaft(s) rotate. Ifhowever, a significant amount of effort is required to rotate the wheel, there is very likely a problem with the brake caliper for that wheel. When testing the rear wheels, make sure the parking brake is properly adjusted and not causing excessive drag. Although the parking brake is a completely separate system from the hydraulic brakes, it can be tested in the same manner, by applying and releasing the parking brake and making sure the rear wheels rotate without excessive drag.

Brake Caliper REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 14, 15, 16, 17 and 29 elf the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a BMW dealer.

1. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake. 2. Loosen the front wheel bolts ¥% of a turn. 3. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. 4. lf equipped, disconnect the brake a wear sensor from the harness. ‘

Do not loosen or disconnect the brake caliper fluid hose if the caliper is being

removed to access or replace another component. Loosen and disconnect the flu hose only if the caliper is to be replac

BRAKES a

A

RE

PE

NSS

5. Ifthe caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle (replaced disassembled or overhauled): a. Siphon the brake fluid out of the reservoir and fix the brake pedal in the depressed position. Or, remove the reservoir cap and place a thin sandwich bag over the opening, then reinstall the cap without the fluid level float to captivate the system. This will prevent brake fluid from draining out of the brake lines while the line is disconnected from the caliper. b. Using a flare nut wrench, loosen, but do

not disconnect the flexible line to the caliper. 6. Using a suitable prytool, carefully move the tensioning spring toward the brake caliper to release the two retaining tabs and remove the spring. 7. On E30 models, hold the flats of the pin slides and remove the upper and lower pivot bolts. 8. On E36 models, remove the two plastic plugs from the caliper slide bolts and using a 7mm hex tool, remove the slider bolts. 9. Rock the caliper assembly side-to-side several times and then carefully remove the caliper along with the inner brake pad from the brake rotor. 10. If the brake fluid line is to be removed from the caliper, place a suitable drain pan under the caliper, disconnect and plug the fluid line and the caliper. Note, to avoid damage to the flexible brake line, hold the brake line with a flare nut wrench and spin the brake caliper. If the brake line is sealed to the caliper with a crush washer, replace the crush washer with the appropriate replacement part. 11. If the brake caliper mounting bracket is to be removed, remove the caliper bracket-to-knuckle mounting bolts and lift off the bracket. These mounting bolts typically require a sturdy 6 point 16mm socket. >The brake caliper bracket-to-steering knuckle bolts may require a significant amount of effort to loosen. Use a proper fitting 6 point ¥% inch drive metric impact socket and sturdy breaker bar to loosen the mounting bolts.

To install: 12. If the brake fluid line was disconnected, connect the brake line to the caliper and torque to 10 ft. Ibs. (14 Nm). Note, to avoid damage to the flexible brake line, hold the brake line with a flare nut wrench and spin the brake caliper. If the brake line is sealed to the caliper with a crush washer, replace the crush washer with the appropriate replacement part.

ESE TETE

ESS

OATS

ES IT I

EB

0)fa (EE

13. If the caliper bracket was removed a. Support the caliper temporarily with mechanic's wire taking care to not damage the flexible brake hose. b. Install the bracket on the knuckle and torque the bolts to:

e E30 models: 91 ft. Ibs. (123 Nm). ¢ E36 models: 81 ft. Ibs. (110 Nm). c. Install the brake pads in the caliper bracket as Outlined in this section. 14. Lower the brake caliper over the brake pads. 15. On E30 models, install a new bolt and torque to 25 ft. Ibs. (35 Nm). Check that the pad Springs are correctly seated. 16. On E36 models: a. Lubricate the slider bolts with an approved brake grease. b. Install the slider bolts and torque to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). c. Install the protective caps and the retainer spring. 17. \f equipped, connect the brake wear sensor wire to the harness. Check for a good connection as most problems with the sensor circuit are caused by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by the loop in the dust cover and the connector is held at the clips. 18. Clip the brake fluid line into the holder. 19. If the brake fluid line was disconnected, bleed the brake system as outlined in this section. 20. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to 66-81 ft. lbs. (90-110 Nm).

Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence could cause a brake pulsation and rotor warpage.

21. Press the brake pedal down slowly about 2 inches (50mm), then slowly release. Continue to press and release the brake pedal in slow even 2 _ inch (50mm) strokes until the pedal is firm.

OVERHAUL » See Figures 30, 31 and 32 elf the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a BMW dealer.

pe

x ©6 Threads

Fig. 29 The brake caliper mounting bracket is attached to the steering

|

a |

le. The brake caliper is attached to

The overhaul procedure covers replacement of the seal, dust boot and guide sleeves. Ifthe piston or bore is found to be pitted or corroded, replacement of the caliper is recommended. Use a original manufacturer overhaul kit. Use all the parts contained in the kit. Work in a clean, dust free area. Use only an approved brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and non-lubricated compressed air to clean the caliper and parts. To overhaul the brake caliper, the brake caliper piston must be removed. There are two different ways to remove the piston from the caliper. It can be pumped out using the foot brake or removed using compressed air.

TR

aT EG

Es

ET

9-9

CR

When removing a brake caliper piston using the foot brake: e Only one caliper can be overhauled at a time e The piston is pumped out before the brake line is loosened or disconnected ¢ This procedure takes more time than the compressed air method, however if the caliper piston is severely seized, compressed air may not be able to move the piston. Therefore pressing the piston out hydraulically may be the only option short of replacing the caliper assembly. e This method requires the brakes to be bled every time a hydraulic line is opened. If the brake caliper piston moves relatively freely, removing the piston with compressed air works well and is much less time consuming than other methods.

2 CAUTION NEVER place your fingers in front of the pistons in an attempt to catch or protect the pistons when applying compressed air. This could result in personal injury! 1. To remove the piston via compressed air: a. Remove the caliper from the vehicle and place on a clean workbench. b. Stuff a shop towel or a block of wood into the caliper to catch the piston. c. Remove the caliper piston using compressed air applied into the caliper inlet hole. Inspect the piston for scoring, nicks, corrosion and/or worn or damaged chrome plating. The piston must be replaced if any of these conditions are found. 2. To remove by being pumped out using the foot brake: a. Work with one caliper at a time: b. Do not disconnect or loosen the brake hose, otherwise the brake will have to be bled. c. Place a suitable drain pan under the brake caliper. d. Remove one brake caliper an place over the drain pan. e. Press the brake pedal down fully and release the brake pedal slowly, then check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If the reservoir runs dry, the brake system will have to be bled. f. Repeat the above step until the caliper piston is dislodged. Some brake fluid will leak out once the piston is dislodged. g. Disconnect the caliper fluid line. h. Inspect and overhaul the caliper if possible, otherwise replace it. i. Reinstall the overhauled or replacement brake caliper completely and bleed the brakes as outlined in this section. j. Repeat the above steps for each caliper that is to be disassembled. To overhaul: 3. Remove the piston seals from the groove in the caliper bore. 4. Carefully loosen the brake bleeder valve cap and valve from the caliper housing. 5. Clean all parts with an approved brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and dry with compressed air. 6. Inspect the caliper bores, pistons and mounting threads for scoring or excessive wear. |

9-10

BRAKES

TCCASP02

TCCA9PO1

Fig. 30 Use compressed air to drive the piston out of the caliper, but make sure to keep your fingers clear

7. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion from the piston and bore. 8. If the caliper piston is damaged, severely scored, or out of round, if available, replace the piston, otherwise replace the caliper assembly. 9. Make sure all components are thoroughly cleaned. The brake caliper piston and bore must be free of all debris. If the upper or lower seal groves in the caliper bore have any built up rust or debris, obtain a small wire brush from a hobby supply store that will fit into a small die grinder or similar tool, and thoroughly clean the grooves. Flush the caliper body thoroughly with an approved brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol. 10. Lubricate and install the bleeder valve and cap. 11. Pour a small amount of fresh brake fluid into a clean container and saturate the new seals with brake fluid. Then, install the seals into the caliper bore grooves, making sure they are fully seated and not twisted. 12. Lubricate the following with an approved high temperature brake-cylinder paste: e The brake caliper piston bore e The outer circumference of the brake caliper piston e The dust cover/sealing cover 13. Install the dust cover/sealing cover around the bottom of the piston. 14. Seat the dust cover/sealing cover lip into the upper groove of the caliper bore. 15. Once the dust cover/sealing cover is fully seated in the caliper bore, press the piston into the caliper bore slowly and evenly. Do not tilt, or force the piston into the bore. While pressing the piston into the bore, if necessary, slide the upper portion

Fig. 31 Withdraw the piston from the caliper bore

of the dust cover/ sealing cover upward to prevent it from bunching up. Make sure to seat the upper lip of the cover around the brake piston before the piston is completely installed in the caliper bore. 16. Inspect and if necessary, install new guide bushing sleeves at the slides. 17. Install the caliper on the vehicle and properly bleed the brake system as outlined in this section. 18. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to 66-81 ft. lbs. (90-110 Nm).

Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence could cause a brake pulsation and rotor warpage. 19. Press the brake pedal down slowly about 2

inches (50mm), then slowly release. Continue to press and release the brake pedal in slow even 2 inch (50mm) strokes until the pedal is firm.

Brake Disc (Rotor) REMOVAL & INSTALLATION » See Figures 14, 15, 16, 17, 29, 33 thru 38 >The brake rotors on M3 models are directional rotors and different from side to side. To

Fig. 33 Use a 6mm hex socket to remove the special rotor retaining fastener. If the fastener is seized, spray it with a penetrating lubricant and. . .

TCCASPO6

Fig. 32 Use extreme caution when removing the piston seal; DO NOT scratch the caliper bore differentiate from side-to-side, the left side brake rotor part number ends in an odd number, the right side rotor part number ends in an even number.

“kt WARNING The balancing clips in the venting of the rotor must not be moved or removed. This will cause an imbalance of the rotor. 1. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake.

2. Loosen the front wheel bolts ¥% of a turn. 3. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the front wheels. e>Do not loosen or disconnect the brake caliper fluid hose. Once removed, support the caliper assembly with mechanic’s wire to avoid damaging the line.

4. Remove the brake caliper as outlined in this section. 5. Remove the brake caliper bracket as outlined in this section. 6. Remove the special, shouldered recessed hex fastener using a 6mm hex socket. Ifthe fastener is corroded in place, spray it with a penetrating lubricant and use a hand impact driver to loosen. 7. Remove the brake rotor. Ifthe brake rotor is seized in place; a. Loosen the brake rotor retaining bolt about 3 turns. b. Spray a penetrating lubricant around the rotor-to-hub seam.

90969P11

Fig. 34. loosen it

. use a hand impact driver to

Fig. 35 If the brake rotor is seized onto the front hub, loosen the brake rotor a bolt about 3 turns, then.

BRAKES

Bas

ow

90969P02

Fig. 36. . . spraya penetrating lubricant around the rotor-to-hub seam and. . .

c. Install two wheel bolts approximately 10 turns and using a suitable hammer, rap sharply on the flat surface of the flat wheel-to-brake rotor-to-hub surface. DO NOT contact the machined area of the brake pad-to-rotor surface. The shock from the impact should eventually loosen the brake rotor from the hub. To install: 8. Check the rotor and replace as necessary. 9. If anew rotor is to be installed, make sure the rotor is free of any protective coatings. Remove the protective coating as recommended by the manufacturer. 10. Clean the hub and brake rotor surfaces, then before installing the brake rotor, apply a very light coat of an anti-seizing compound. 11. Install the brake rotor retaining fastener and tighten to 12 ft. Ibs. (16 Nm).

«2k WARNING

12. The balance of the installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following steps. 13. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to 66-81 ft. Ibs. (90-110 Nm).

on

90969P27

Fign.cies: . using a suitable hammer, rap sharply on the flat surface of the brake rotor. The shock from the impact should eventually loosen the rotor

Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence could cause a brake pulsation and rotor warpage. 14. Press the brake pedal down slowly about 2 inches (50mm), then slowly release. Continue to press and release the brake pedal in slow even 2 inch (50mm) strokes until the pedal is firm. 15. Burnish the rotors by making 5 full stops from 30 mph (50 km/h), then allow the brakes to cool. Make 5 additional stops from 30 mph (50 km/h) and allow the brakes to cool again. This will burnish the rotors and allow full braking efficiency.

INSPECTION > See Figures 39, 40 and 41

The shouldered brake rotor fastener must be reinstalled. If damaged or missing, replace. Failure to install the fastener could result in the lug bolts being sheared off during hard braking.

90949P37

“Fig.39 Using a micrometer to measure ickness of the brake rotor. Discard

9-11

Visually inspect the brake rotor machined surface. Replace the brake rotor if: e The surface is pitted e The surface is cracked e The surface is uneven or grooved e There is an excessive ridge on the outer circumference The brake rotors should be measured for warpage and thickness variation. If a brake pulsation is felt through the brake pedal during braking, there is likely a thickness variation in on or more of the brake rotors. If a brake pulsation is felt through

the brake pedal and the steering wheel during braking, there is likely a thickness variation in on or more of the front brake rotors and possibly the rear brake rotors. If a brake pulsation is felt through the steering wheel but not through the brake pedal during braking, one or both of the front brake rotors is likely to be warped. Whenever the brake calipers or pads are removed, inspect the rotors for defects. The brake rotor is an extremely important component of the brake system. Cracks, large scratches or warpage can adversely affect the braking system, at times to the point of becoming very dangerous. Light scoring is acceptable. Heavy scoring or warping will necessitate refinishing or replacement of the disc. The brake disc must be replaced if cracks or burned marks are evident. If the rotor needs to be replaced with a new part, the protective coating on the braking surface of the rotor must.be removed with an appropriate solvent _ before installing the rotor to the vehicle. Check the run-out of the hub (disc removed). It should not be more than 0.002 inch (0.05mm). If so, the hub should be replaced. All brake discs have markings for MINIMUM allowable thickness cast on an unmachined surface or an alternate surface. Always use this specification as the minimum allowable thickness or refinishing limit. Refer to a local auto parts store or machine shop, if necessary, where rotors are resurfaced. If the rotor needs to be replaced with a new part, the protective coating on the braking surface of the

Fig. 41 Use a micrometer to determine the rotor parallelism and to measure rotor

WASHER 108 N-m (11 kgf-m, 80 Ibf-t) 93139613

Fig. 40 Use a dial indicator to measure

the brake rotor runout

90969P30

Fig. 38 Clean the hub, then before . installing the brake rotor, apply a light coat of an anti-seizing compound

thickness. If the rotor thickness is below the minimum thickness, it must be replaced

9-12

BRAKES

rotor must be removed with an appropriate solvent before installing the rotor to the vehicle. To properly check a brake rotor, the disc runout, thickness and parallelism should be measured. To perform these measurements proceed as follows:

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the tire/wheel assembly for the brake rotor to be inspected. 3. Reinstall the lug bolts with washers and torque to 80 ft. Ibs. (108 Nm). 4. Remove the brake pads as outlined in this section. 5. Inspect the brake surface for cracks and damage, then thoroughly clean the brake surface. 6. To measure runout: a. Attach a dial indicator to a solid portion of the suspension.

b. Set and zero the dial indicator plunger 0.40 inches (10mm) inside the outer circumference of the brake rotor. c. Rotate the brake rotor and note the amount

of runout by reading the dial indicator. If the runout exceeds 0.004 inches (0.10mm), measure the minimum thickness. If rotor thickness is within specification, use an approved on-car brake lathe and machine the brake rotor. 7. To measure the brake rotor thickness and parallelism proceed as follows: a. Use a micrometer and measure the brake rotor thickness 0.40 inches (10mm) inside the outer circumference of the brake rotor every 45° (Ye of a rotation). b. Compare the smallest value measured to the minimum thickness specifications stamped

on the brake rotor. If the rotor is below the minimum thickness, the rotor must be replaced. If within specification, measure the parallelism. c. To measure parallelism, subtract the smallest value measured from the largest value measured. If the parallelism is greater than 0.0008 inches (0.02mm), if within the minimum thickness specification use an approved brake lathe and machine the brake rotor.

Machining of the M3 brake rotors is not permissible. elf after machining the brake rotor is below minimum thickness, it must be replaced.

REAR DISC BRAKES » See Figures 42 and 43

2. If equipped, disconnect the brake pad wear sensor from the harness. 3. Carefully pry the pad retainer spring out from the hub side and remove. 4. Remove the plastic plugs from the caliper slide bolts and remove the bolts. Remove the caliper and the pads from the caliper. To install: 5. Clean the brake caliper and all sliding surfaces. Press the caliper piston fully back into the _ Caliper housing. Check for leaking fluid, damaged dust boots and frozen pistons. 6. If equipped, install a new brake pad wear sensor in the pad if the plastic part has been worn through on the old sensor. New sensors are not

“+ CAUTION Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

The 3 series and Z3 series BMW rear disc brakes are a sliding caliper type disc brake system. The brake systems used by BMW are subjected to rigorous testing and must meet stringent DIN industry standards. The components of the brake system are designed to be compatible with one another. Aside from steel braided hydraulic brake lines, different brake pad compounds, there is very little that can be done to improve the performance and reliability of the original equipment brakes short of upgrading the entire brake system. When replacing or repairing the brake components, for reasons of safety and liability, use original equipment components that meet BMW

standards. If the vehicle is used for sporting events or closed course competition: e Inspect the brake components before each event ¢ Flush the brake fluid at lease every 90 days ¢ Replace any component(s) that are not within tolerance

IELG

84279018

Fig. 43 Rear brake caliper mounting position

The hardware used to mount the brake components to the suspension is a special design and grade of hardness. Substitution of brake related mounting fasteners is not recommended. 6 —————_——————— ee

90969P16

Fig. 44 Remove the clip spring before removing the slide pins

The rear disc brakes utilize a sliding caliper similar to the front disc brakes. The parking brake assembly is mounted in the brake rotor hat. This is known as a drum-in-disc design. This allows a simpler caliper design than those that incorporate the parking brake mechanism in the rear caliper. Most of the maintenance procedure are the same as the front disc brakes.

Brake Pads

Tensionin Oe of tae Spring

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 90969P34

Fig. 42 The rear brake caliper assembly— E36 model shown

» See Figures 44 thru 50 1. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheels.

90969P14

Fig. 45 Remove the caps to expose the internal hex slide pins

BRAKES

9-13

al

Ps

Y 90969P 15

a

= 84279023

Fig. 46 Make sure the wrench is fully seated in the slide pin to prevent stripping internal hex

84279022

Fig. 47 Inspect the slide pins for corrosion and pitting once removed

Fig. 48 The inside pad will stay with the caliper and the outside pad will stay with the lower mount

hose is to remain attached to the caliper, support the caliper assembly with mechanic’s wire to avoid damaging the line.

.

84279025

Fig. 49 The inside pad has a spring holding it in the piston bore

INSPECTION

required unless the wire inside the plastic part has been exposed. 7. Install the brake pads in the caliper. Lower the caliper over the caliper mount. 8. On E30 models, install a new bolt and torque to 25 ft. Ibs. (35 Nm). Check that the pad springs are correctly seated. 9. On E36 models, a. Lubricate the slider bolts with an approved brake grease. b. Install the slider bolts and torque to 18-22 ft. Ibs. (25-30 Nm). c. Install the protective caps and the retainer spring. 10. If equipped, connect the brake wear sensor wire to the harness. Check for a good connection as most problems with the sensor circuit are caused by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by the loop in the dust cover and the connector is held at the clips. 11. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to 66-81 ft. Ibs. (90-110 Nm).

Inspection of the rear brake pads is similar to the inspection of the front brake pads. Please refer to the front brake pad inspection procedures.

Brake Caliper REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 51, 52 and 53 e>if the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a

BMW dealer.

1. Block the rear wheels and apply the parking brake. 2. Loosen the rear wheel bolts Ye of a turn. 3. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheels. 4. \f equipped, disconnect the brake pad wear sensor from the harness.

2 CAUTION Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence

could cause a brake pulsation and rotor 7 7 ‘warpage. lens

5

:

84279026

Fig. 50 The upper pad is the outside pad and the lower pad with the spring is the inside pad

“

Do not loosen or disconnect the brake caliper fluid hose if the caliper is being removed to access or replace another component. Loosen and disconnect the fluid hose

only if the caliper is to be replaced, completely removed or overhauled. if the fluid

5. Ifthe caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle (replaced, disassembled or overhauled): a. Siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir and fix the brake pedal in the depressed position. Or, remove the reservoir cap and place a thin sandwich bag over the opening, then reinstall the cap without the fluid level float to captivate the system. This will prevent brake fluid from draining out of the brake lines while the line is disconnected from the caliper. b. Using a flare nut wrench, loosen, but do not disconnect the flexible line to the caliper. 6. Using a suitable prytool, carefully move the tensioning spring toward the brake caliper to release the two retaining tabs and remove the spring. 7. Remove the two plastic plugs from the

caliper slide bolts and using a 7mm hex tool, remove the slider bolts. 8. Rock the caliper assembly side-to-side several times and then carefully remove the caliper along with the inner brake pad from the brake rotor. 9. If the brake fluid line is to be removed from the caliper, place a suitable drain pan under the caliper, disconnect and plug the fluid line and the caliper. Note, to avoid damage to the flexible brake line, hold the brake line with a flare nut wrench and spin the brake caliper. If the brake line is sealed to the caliper with a crush washer, replace the crush washer with the appropriate replacement part. 10. Ifthe brake caliper mounting bracket is to be removed, remove the caliper bracket-to-knuckle mounting bolts and lift off the bracket. These mounting bolts typically require a sturdy 6 point 16mm socket.

e>The brake caliper bracket-to-trailing arm bolts may require a significant amount of effort to loosen. Use a proper fitting 6 point 1% inch drive metric impact socket and sturdy breaker bar to loosen the mounting bolts.

To install: 11. If the brake fluid line was disconnected,

connect the brake line to the caliper and torque to

9-14

BRAKES

90969P14

90969P40

Fig. 51 Move the tensioning spring and release it

10 ft. Ibs. (14.2 Nm). Note, to avoid damage to the flexible brake line, hold the brake line with a flare nut wrench and spin the brake caliper. If the brake line is sealed to the caliper with a crush washer, replace the crush washer with the appropriate replacement part. 12. If the caliper bracket was removed a. Support the caliper temporarily with mechanic's wire taking care to not damage the flexible brake hose. b. Install the bracket on the trailing arm and torque the bolts to 48 ft. Ibs. (65 Nm). c. Install the brake pads in the caliper bracket as outlined in this section. 13. Lower the brake caliper over the brake pads. 14. Lubricate the slider bolts with an approved brake grease. 15. Install the slider bolts and torque to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm). 16. Install the protective caps and the retainer spring. 17. If equipped, connect the brake wear sensor wire to the harness. Check for a good connection as most problems with the sensor circuit are caused by faulty connections. Check that the wire is held by the loop in the dust cover and the connector is held at the clips. 18. If the brake fluid line was disconnected, bleed the brake system as outlined in this section. 19. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to 66-81 ft. Ibs. (90-110 Nm).

Fig. 52 Remove the protective plugs to access the caliper slide bolts

Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence could cause a brake pulsation and rotor

90969P15

Fig. 53 Remove the caliper slide bolts with a 7mm hex tool 1. 2. 3. Remove

Block the front wheels. Loosen the rear wheel bolts ¥% of a turn. Raise and support the rear of the vehicle. the rear wheels.

warpage.

e>Do not loosen or disconnect the brake caliper fluid hose. Once removed, support the caliper assembly with mechanic’s wire to

OVERHAUL

avoid damaging the line.

The rear brake caliper design is similar to the front brake caliper. For overhaul information, please refer to the front brake caliper overhaul procedures in this section.

section.

4. Remove the brake caliper as outlined in this

Combination Rotor/Parking Brake Drum

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 54, 55, 56, 57 and 58 >The brake rotors on M3 models are directional rotors and different from side to side. To differentiate from side-to-side, the left side brake rotor part number ends in an odd number, the right side rotor part number ends in an even number.

The balancing clips in the venting of the rotor must not be moved or removed. This will cause an imbalance of the rotor.

5. Remove the brake caliper bracket as out. lined in this section.

6. Remove the special, shouldered recessed hex fastener using a 6mm hex socket. If the fastener is corroded in place, spray it with a penetrating lubricant and use a hand impact driver to loosen. 7. Remove the brake rotor. If the brake rotor is seized in place: a. Loosen the brake rotor retaining bolt about 3 turns. b. Spray a penetrating lubricant around the rotor-to-hub seam. c. Install two wheel bolts approximately 10 turns and using a suitable hammer, rap sharply on the flat surface of the flat wheel-to-brake rotor-to-hub surface. DO NOT contact the machined area of the brake pad-to-rotor surface: The shock from the impact should eventually loosen the brake rotor from the hub. To install: 8. Check the rotor and replace as necessary. 9. Ifa new rotor is to be installed, make sure the rotor is free of any protective coatings. Remove

90969P05 096902

Fig. 54 The brake rotor may be seized onto the hub, so spray a penetrating lubricant around the rotor-to-hub seam

90969P11

Fig. 55 Use a hand impact driver with a 6mm hex tool to loosen the rotor mounting fastener. . .

Fig. 56. . . then, if necessary, using a suitable hammer, rap sharply on the flat surface of the brake rotor. Install two lug bolts to prevent the rotor from falling

li

BRAKES

9-15

13. The balance of the installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 14. Install the wheels and hand tighten the lug bolts. Lower the vehicle carefully until the tires begin to contact the surface and torque the lug bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern to 66-81 ft. Ibs. (90-110 Nm).

+ CAUTION Failure to properly torque the wheels to the correct torque using the proper sequence could cause a brake pulsation and rotor

warpage.

90969P06

Fig. 57 The interior surface of the brake rotor serves as the parking brake drum

the protective coating as recommended by the manufacturer. 10. Clean the hub and brake rotor surfaces, then before installing the brake rotor, apply a very light coat of an anti-seizing compound. 11. Install the brake rotor retaining fastener and tighten to 12 ft. Ibs. (16 Nm). 12. Check the parking brake adjustment and adjust as necessary as outlined in this section.

Fig. 58 Clean the hub, then before installing the brake rotor, apply a light coat of an anti-seizing compound

15. Burnish the rotors by making 5 full stops from 30 mph (50 km/h), then allow the brakes to cool. Make 5 additional stops from 30 mph (50 km/h) and allow the brakes to cool again. This will burnish the rotors and allow full braking efficiency.

The shouldered brake rotor fastener must be

reinstalled. If damaged or missing, replace. Failure to install the fastener could result in the lug bolts being sheared off during hard braking.

INSPECTION The rear brake rotor inspection is the same as the front brake rotor. For inspection information, please refer to the front brake caliper inspection procedures in this section.

PARKING BRAKE 9. Install the cable into the tubes going to the parking brake. lever. Install the parking brake lever. 10. Connect the parking brake cable to the spreader lock. Apply a light grease to the mechanism. Install the brake shoes, retainers and return spring. 11. Install the brake rotor and wheel. Adjust the shoes, the adjust the cables. Install the console and boot for the parking brake lever.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

> See Figures 59 and 60 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Remove the rear brake rotors. 2. Pull the rubber parking brake boot up at the front and lift off at the rear. Pull out the rear ashtray and remove the bolt. Pull the console back and remove. 3. Remove the adjuster nuts from the cables. Remove the 3 bolts securing the lever. Remove the lever. 4. Using brake spring pliers, disconnect the lower return spring for the parking brake shoes. Then, using the proper tool, turn the retaining springs for the parking brake shoes 90 degrees to unlock them and remove. 5. Separate the parking brake shoes at the bot-

tom and remove from above. 6. Disconnect the spreader locks from the backing plates: first, rock the lower end of the spreader lock outward, and then pull out the pin. Press the cable connection out of the

spreader lock. Pull the spreader lock out of the housing. 7. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the

trailing arm and the backing plate. Remove the

To 8.

‘ install: © Instal thesupport for the parking brake

e backing plate. Install the cable into ect thehousing to the trailing =: p

A eo

Fig. 59 A typical parking bra

Ss

sib

E36 Models

> See Figures 59 and 60 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Remove the rear brake rotors. Remove the rear muffler and heat shield. 2. Pull the parking brake lever dust cover trim up and out of the vehicle.

9-16

BRAKES ADJUSTMENT

check that the wheels spin freely. Both sides must be adjusted evenly. 6. The parking brake indicator lamp should

E30 Models

» See Figures 61, 62 and 63

84279030

Fig. 60 Pull the spreader lock (A) out of the housing and remove the pin at the

lower end. Disconnect the cable at (B) and pull the inner portion out of the housing

3. Remove the adjuster nuts from the cables using Too! No. 34 71 030 or equivalent. _ 4. Using brake spring pliers, disconnect the lower return spring for the parking brake shoes. Then, using the proper tool, turn the retaining springs for the parking brake shoes 90 ° to unlock them and remove. 5. Separate the parking brake shoes at the bottom and remove from above. 6. Disconnect the spreader locks from the backing plates: first, rock the lower end of the spreader lock outward, and then pull out the pin. Press the cable connection out of the spreader lock. Pull the spreader lock out of the housing. 7. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the trailing arm and the backing plate. Remove the cable. To install: 8. Install the support for the parking brake cable on the backing plate. Install the cable into potion and connect the housing to the trailing arm. 9. Install the cable into the tubes going to the parking brake lever. Install the parking brake lever cable nuts. 10. Connect the parking brake cable to the spreader lock. Apply a light grease to the mechanism. Install the brake shoes, retainers and return spring. 11. Install the brake rotor and wheel. Adjust the shoes, the adjust the cables. Install the console and boot for the parking brake lever.

1. Remove 1 lug bolt from the wheel and turn the opening so it is positioned to the rear approximately 30 degrees from the top. This is the location of the star adjuster for the brake shoes. 2. Usea thin bladed adjustment tool or equivalent to turn the star adjuster. On the left side, turn the star up to tighten. On the right side, turn the star down to tighten. 3. Turn the star until the wheel will not turn. Loosen the star 3-4 threads. Check that the wheel turn freely. 4, Pull the parking lever boot up in the front and pull out from the rear. Remove the rear ashtray and the underlying bolt. Pull the console back and out. 5. Pull the parking brake lever up 5 notches. Adjust the cables with the nuts so that the wheels can just barely be turned. Release the lever and check that the wheels spin freely. Both sides must be adjusted evenly. 6. The parking brake indicator lamp should extinguish when the lever is released; otherwise adjust the switch so it does. Install the console and the lug bolt.

extinguish when the lever is released; otherwise adjust the switch so it does. 7. Install the dust cover and the lug bolt.

BURNISHING The parking brake is subjected to only limited wear and use. Often the friction surfaces become corroded and cause a loss of braking performance. This can often be cured by burnishing the parking brakes and the performance will return. This procedure should also be performed whenever new shoes or rotors are installed and before the parking brake adjustment is made. 1. While driving the car at 25 mph (40 km/h) pull the parking brake lever until braking is felt. Pull the lever 1 more notch and drive the car 1300 ft. (400 m) to the working area. 2. Adjust the parking brake. 3. Check the performance of the parking brake.

Parking Brake Shoes REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

E36 Models

> See Figures 64, 65, 66, 67 and 68

» See Figures 61, 62 and 63

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the rear tire and wheel assembly. Remove the rear brake rotors. 2. Using brake spring pliers, disconnect the lower return spring for the parking brake shoes. Then, using the proper tool, turn the retaining springs for the parking brake shoes 90 degrees to unlock them and remove. 3. Separate the parking brake shoes at the bottom and remove from above. Separate the shoes from the adjuster and spring. To install: 4. Install the adjuster and spring at the shoes. Install the shoes from the top to the backing plate. 5. Install the retainer locks and the return spring. Install the rotor. Burnish and adjust the parking brake.

1. Remove 1 lug bolt from the wheel and turn the opening so it is positioned to the rear approximately 65 degrees from the top. This is the location of the star adjuster for the brake shoes. 2. Use a thin bladed adjustment tool or equivalent to turn the star adjuster. On the left side, turn the star up to tighten. On the right side, turn the star down to tighten. 3. Turn the star until the wheel will not turn. Loosen the star 18 notches. Check that the wheel turn freely. 4. Pull the parking lever dust cover trim up. 5. Pull the parking brake lever up 6 notches. Adjust the cables with the nuts so that the wheels can just barely be turned. Release the lever and

jEoosen™

f pee

Va)

a

\ Tighten 90969P07

Fig. 61 The parking brake shoe adjuster is a star wheel between the brake shoes— ~ E36 models shown, E30 similar

90969P09

Fig. 62 The parking brake shoes are adjusted through one of the wheel bolt holes—E36 models shown, E30 similar

90969P39

Fig. 63 The star wheel adjuster is moved by pivoting the adjustment tool—E36 mod-

elsshown, E30 similar

BRAKES

84279031

9-17

84279032 84279033

Fig. 64 Disconnect the return spring at the spreader

Fig. 65 Pull the shoes apart at the spreader

Fig. 66 Turn the retainer springs 90 degrees to release

84279034

Fig. 67 The retainers are located on each brake shoe

ADJUSTMENT Please refer to the parking brake and cable adjustment procedures in this section.

84279035

Fig. 68 Exploded view of the parking brake components

ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (ABS) General Information The basic principle of the Antilock Braking System (ABS) is to: ¢ Limit wheel slippage (skidding) to ensure stability while braking ¢ Allow steerability (directional control) while braking e Provide the minimum (optimum) braking distance without loss of contro! The control of the brakes by the ABS system consists of three phases: ¢ Building pressure ¢ Holding pressure e Releasing pressure When applying the brake while driving in conditions where traction is marginal, the tires could loose traction (skid) reducing the directional stability of the vehicle, especially in a panic situation. Reduced traction conditions include unavoidable environmental situations such as driving in the rain, snow, and road conditions such as loose gravel, sand, painted lines, or fluid spills on the roadway (found especially at intersections). The ABS contro! unit monitors the rotational speed of each wheels and compares them to one

another. If the speed of 1 or more wheels drops drastically below that of the others during braking, the ABS control unit will reduce hydraulic pressure to that wheel until it is rotating at the same speed as the others. This will provide the minimum (optimum) braking distance without loss of control. The ABS system responds so quickly, it can actually apply and release each brake at a rate of 15 times a second. In the case of the 325iX four wheel drive vehicle, a deceleration sensor is needed to sense the relative motion of the car. Since the possibility exists that 1 or more wheels can be spinning due to acceleration, not braking, a sensor independent of the wheel speed sensors is needed.

An example of the difference between an ABS equipped vehicle and a non-equipped ABS vehicle can be observed easily in a safe, restricted area covered with fresh snow. If, while maintaining control in a turn the brake is abruptly applied on a nonABS equipped vehicle, the brake hydraulic pressure is applied evenly to each wheel. Because the snow covered conditions offer reduced traction, the wheels will tend to lock up (skid). The vehicle may begin to reduce its speed, but the lock up typically causes the vehicle to begin to slide straight (in the

direction of its momentum) and no longer follow the turn regardless of the steering wheel's position. Under the same conditions, an ABS equipped vehicle will regulate the brake pressures individually for each wheel to allow the vehicle to follow the turn while reducing the vehicle's speed. When this occurs, the ABS hydraulic unit is activated by the ABS control unit and the brake pedal will exhibit some feedback caused by the activation of the ABS hydraulic unit. If a driver has never experienced an ABS activation condition before, it can be quite startling when it occurs for the first time. ABS can not perform miracles. Safe driving principles should always be adhered to and not compromised just because a vehicle is equipped with ABS.

Diagnosis and Testing > See Figure 69 When the ignition is switched ON the Antilock Braking System (ABS) contro! unit performs a self test. The ABS and if equipped, the Automatic Stabil-

ity Control with Traction Control System (ASC+T) indicator lights will illuminate for about two sec-

|

9-18 RS

BRAKES SRA

RE

onds and then extinguish. During this time the internal electrical circuits of the ABS control unit are checked along with the external electrical circuits of the wheel sensors, if equipped, the pedal travel sensor and the voltage supply. When the engine is started and the vehicle begins to move for the first time, the initial movement is detected by the wheel sensors, whose pulsating electrical signal is received by the control unit, that in turn briefly energizes the solenoid valve and pump motor of the hydraulic unit as a dynamic self test. Ifa fault is detected, the ABS and if equipped, the ASC+T are switched off, and the ABS and if equipped, the ASC+T indicator lights are illuminated. >On E36 models equipped with the ASC+T traction control system, the ASC+T indicator light will flash during throttle control regulation. If a fault is detected in either the ABS or the ASC+T system, both systems are switched off and both indicator lights are illuminated.

e>Mismatched tires could activate the Antilock Braking System (ABS) indicator light because their rotational wheel speed could be dissimilar due to slight variations of tire size between different manufacturer’s and/or tread patterns.

Unlike the E30 models, the E36 models do have a fault memory and the ability to store fault codes. If the ABS light is illuminated on an E36 model, the fault(s) will be stored and can be retrieved with the proper diagnostic equipment. The E36 models have a diagnostic link which can be accessed with diagnostic equipment such as the BMW Service Tester or MoDiC. The fault memory cannot be interrogated with the 16-pin OBD II Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) using a Data Scan Tool (DST). Because of their location on the suspension which is constantly moving, and exposure to heat generated by the brakes the impulse (wheel sensors) can develop an open circuit in their wiring. The impulse (wheel speed) sensors are magnetic, they can collect a build up of fine magnetic particles on the tip of the sensor and/or become covered with debris. The exciter (tone) rings can

a 93139624

Fig. 69 The air gap is critical. If debris | gathers between the impulse sensor and | the exciter ring, or the sensor and/or

‘| exciter ringare damaged, the ABS light will be illuminated

SAT

EA

AS DLE

A

also become built up with debris as well. The ABS contro! unit monitors and compares the signals from the impulse (wheel speed) sensors. If their signals differ, the ABS control unit assumes that the wheels are spinning at different speeds and illumi-

nates the ABS and if equipped, the ASC+T indicator lights and turns the system(s) off. Quick and easy checks can be made to the impulse (wheel speed) sensors without the use of expensive diagnostic equipment. 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Disconnect the impulse sensor electrical connector and check the sensor for continuity or leave the sensor connected, rotate the tire quickly and use an inductive pickup connected to an oscilloscope to check for a voltage signal. If the circuit has no continuity (open) or no voltage signal is recognized, compare the readings with the remaining wheel sensors and replace as necessary.

Compressed air can be dangerous. Wear eye protection and protective clothing. 3. Check for a build up of magnetic particles or debris between the exciter ring and the tip of the sensor. Remove the sensor, and wearing eye protection, carefully clean with compressed. Then rotate the wheel and through the sensor mounting hole, Clear the exciter ring with compressed air. lf the ABS system continues to malfunction, check the wiring between all of the components. Clean the connections thoroughly and repair if necessary. If the system continues to malfunction seek the help of a BMW dealer or a certified BMW ABS brake specialist.

Impulse (Wheel Speed) Sensors The impulse (speed sensors) are located at each wheel and provide the speed reference to the control unit. The sensors are permanently magnetized inductive sensors that read pulses from a tooth wheel on each hub. A voltage signal is generated as each tooth passes through the magnetic field. The sensors are replaceable. The toothed exciter rings are integral with the wheel hub or axle assembly and are replaced with the assembly.

IE LI EY BE TSS SE

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Front

» See Figure 70 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2, Remove the front wheels.

3. Open the ABS sensor connector protective box, lift out the connector and detach it. 4. Remove the sensor fastener from upper inside portion of the steering knuckle and remove the sensor. 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Rear

» See Figure 71 1. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 2. Remove the rear wheels. 3. Open the ABS sensor connector protective

box, lift out the connector and detach it. 4, Remove the sensor fastener from the top of the rear trailing arm and remove the sensor. 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Tone (Exciter) Ring REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Front

» See Figure 70 The front exciter ring is part of the front hub or ~ axle assembly on 325iX models and must be replaced as a unit. For details on the front hub or axle replacement, please refer to the replacement procedures in Section 7. Rear

_ > See Figure 71 The rear exciter ring is part of the outer CVjoint/drive axle assembly and must be replaced as a unit. For details on the axle replacement, please refer to the replacement procedures in Section 7.

a

Front hub Fig. 70 The front ABS impulse sensor is installed in the steering knuckle. The exciter ring is part of the hub assembly

Fig. 71 The rear exciter rin

outer CV-joint/drive ay

BRAKES

9-19

ABS Control Unit The control unit contains all the signal conditioning circuitry and the output circuits. The output circuits control the hydraulic unit to adjust the line pressure to each caliper. The unit is located under the dash panel on the left side in the E30 models and above the glove compartment in the E36 models.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figure 72

The hydraulic unit is located in the engine compartment. During operation of the anti-lock system, a pulsing may be felt at the brake pedal and a clicking heard from the hydraulic unit when the ABS system is activated. e>if the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a BMW dealer. 90969P43

1. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. On E30 models, remove the lower dash panel. 4. On E36 models remove the right side lower panel and the glove compartment. 5. Unlock the electrical connector retainer and

carefully remove the electrical connector. 6. Remove the mounting bracket fasteners and remove the control unit. 7. Installation is in reverse order of assembly. On models equipped with ASC+T, the control unit must be initially activated in the throttle-valve idle position.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 73 and 74 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. On M50 and M82 6 cylinder engines, remove the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and if equipped with cruise control, unscrew the drive motor. 3. Using a clean, suitable baster or equivalent, withdraw the brake fluid from the reservoir. 4. Detach the central electrical connector. 5. Disconnect and remove the fluid line from the front of the master cylinder to the front of the hydraulic unit.

Fig. 73 The intake manifold has been lifted away to allow a more complete view of the ABS hydraulic unit-E36 model shown

Vis Sa

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his

ay

A &

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

me

90969P44

Hydraulic control unit Valve relay Motor relay Cover ABS control unit

Fig. 74 The unit on E36 models is between the rear of the left strut tower and the intake manifold, just below the master cylinder

6. Label, then disconnect the remaining fluid lines. 7. Remove the suction hoses off the elbows on the pump body taking care to catch the residual brake fluid. 8. On models equipped with cruise control,

unscrew the carbon filter for the EVAP system. 9. Remove the mounting fasteners and then the hydraulic unit. To install: 10. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following. 11. The brake hoses must be connected in the proper location. 12. The brake hydraulic system must be bled using fresh approved brake fluid.

Brake Pedal Travel Sensor The brake pedal travel sensor is mounted to the brake booster. Note, the E30 models do not have a brake pedal travel sensor.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E36 Models

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. —

2. Detach the electrical connector from the sensor. — 3. Using asuitable flat blade prytool, lift out the

‘ntrol unit, thehydraulic unit and electrical relays—E30 model illustrated 5’

snapring.

9-20 (RRR SSR

BRAKES TS ESE

FR

4. Carefully pull the sensor from the guide sleeve. To install:

The brake vacuum booster is color coded. A spacer cap of the same color must be installed onto the tip of the sensor plunger. 5. Install the spacer cap on the sensor plunger. 6. Install a new O-ring onto the sensor, flush with the sealing edge. 7. Install a new snapring on the sensor holder

in the vacuum booster. 8. Install the carefully until the snapring can be heard and watched to be fully engaged, then reconnect the electrical connector.

Bleeding the ABS System > See Figures 75 and 76

If the vehicle is equipped with ASC+T, the BMW Service Tester must be used to properly bleed the system. Due to safety and liability issues, this job should only be performed by a BMW dealer. While parts of the of the ABS system can be removed and replaced by the owner of the vehicle, special tool, technique and procedure are needed to check the operation and performance of the system once repairs are completed. To bleed the hydraulic system, a necessary step after the hydraulic system has been repaired, the BMW Diagnostic Tester or equivalent must be uti-

LEST

MR

EE

ER

lized to electronically open the internal valve. Only this way can the system be completely bled. To check the operation of the ABS system after any of the electronic portions have been replaced or disconnected, the BMW Diagnostic Tester or equivalent must be used. It is recommended to allow a licensed and trained professional to complete repairs on the ABS system. Most repairs are straightforward, but the diagnosis and testing of the system can enter a different realm. The safety and integrity of the braking system must never be compromised. To ensure continued proper operation of the braking system, the brake fluid must be changed at least every 2 years. If the vehicle is used for heavy duty use, change the fluid at least once a year. If the vehicle is used in competition or drivers schools, bleed the system before and after each event or at least every 90 days. Use a quality, approved DOT 4 brake fluid. Use fluid from sealed, unused cans. Buy the fluid in quantities that you expect to use. Buying a large container of fluid and only using a small portion can lead to the remaining fluid to become contaminated over time. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and can lead to system corrosion. Always use a fresh, clean, factory approved brake fluid.

This procedure is only valid for vehicles without ASC+T. If the special procedures are not performed in accordance to BMW requirements, the brake system may not function properly possibly resulting in severe personal injury.

SEE

to seize in the caliper body. If seized, spray the bleed screw with a penetrating lubricant. Place a properly fitting deep well, 6 point socket on the bleed screw. Use a T-handle driver to turn the socket, apply equalized rotational pressure to both sides of the T-handle when loosening. This will avoid side loading the bleeder, which due to its relative small size and the fact that it is hollow, the bleeder valve can be easily sheared off. Should this occur, check with your local auto parts vendor for a bleeder valve repair kit. Once the bleeder has been loosened, use a small wrench to open and close the bleeder as necessary while bleeding.

1. Fill the master cylinder to the maximum level with the proper brake fluid. 2, Attach a pressure bleeder to the master cylinder reservoir. Do not allow the pressure to exceed 29 psi (2 bar). An assistant will be needed to properly bleed the brake system.

3. Raise and safely support the vehicle. 4. Remove the protective caps from the bleeder screws and bleed the brakes using the following bleeding sequence. Always starts with the brake unit farthest from the master cylinder. The proper bleeding sequence is: e Right rear e Left rear e Right front e Left front. 5. Insert a tight fitting clear plastic tube over the bleeder screw on the caliper and the other end of the tube in a transparent container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

Brake caliper bleed screws have a tendency

When bleeding do not allow the system to run dry, otherwise the entire procedure must be repeated. 6. Have the assistant apply pressure to the brake pedal, a. Open the bleeder.

84279004

Fig. 75 Bleeding the front brakes. Replace the bleeder cover when done

84279005

Fig. 76 Bleeding the rear brakes. Replace the bleeder cover when done

b. While the bleeder is opened, have the assistant pump the brake pedal slowly at least 12 times. c. When the fluid being dispersed is free of all air bubbles, hold the brake pedal down and close the bleeder valve. d: Slowly release the brake pedal. e. Check and top off the brake fluid reservoir and pressure bleeder as necessary. f. Torque the 7mm bleeders to 44 inch Ibs. 3.5 ft. Ibs. (5 Nm) and the 9mm bleeders to 53 inch Ibs. 4.3 ft. lbs. (6 Nm). Replace the bleeder dust covers. 7. Repeat the brake bleeding steps above for each caliper in the following order. a. Left rear b. Right front c. Left front 8. Lower the vehicle, check the brake fluid level, top off as necessary and check for normal operation of the brakes.

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BRAKES 9-21

9-22

BRAKES BRAKE SPECIFICATIONS BMW 3 SERIES, Z3 All measurements in inches unless noted Minimum

Original Year

(con

Thickness

Model

(cont.)

328iC M3

e

Maximum Runout

Brake Caliper

Lining Bracket Thickness Bolts Rear _ (ft. Ibs. Front

Mounting Bolts ft. Ibs.

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Brake Disc Minimum _ Thickness

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25.8 25.8

NA - Not Available F - Front R - Rear ;

® Solid brake rotor: 0.409 inches

|

@ Solid brake rotor: 0.331 inches

Ventilated brake rotor: 0.803 inches

@ Minimum thickness is stamped in the brake disk shell Maximum machining limit per side: 0.031inches 90969003

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EXTERIOR 10-2 DOORS 10-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-2 ADJUSTMENT 10-2 HINGE BUSHING REPLACEMENT 10-2 HOOD 10-2 SERVICE POSITION 10-2 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-3 ALIGNMENT 10-3 TRUNK LID 10-3 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-3 ADJUSTMENT 10-3 BUMPERS 10-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-4 GRILLES 10-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-4 OUTSIDE MIRROR ASSEMBLY 10-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-4 OUTSIDE MIRROR GLASS 10-4 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-4 POWER ANTENNA MAST 10-4

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-4 POWER ANTENNA 10-5 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-5 FENDERS 10-5 REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 10-5 HARDTOP 10-5 REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 10-5 CONVERTIBLE TOP. 10-5 MOTOR REPLACEMENT 10-5

CONVERTIBLE TOP EMERGENCY OPERATION 10-5 ADJUSTMENT 10-6 POWER SUNROOF 10-6 EMERGENCY CLOSURE 10-6 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-6 ADJUSTMENT 10-7 INTERIOR 10-7 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND PAD 10-7 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-7 CENTER CONSOLE 10-8 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-8 DOOR PANELS 10-8 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-8 DOOR LOCKS 10-9 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-9 DOOR GLASS 10-9 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-9 WINDOW REGULATOR & MOTOR 10-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-10 INSIDE REAR VIEW MIRROR 10-10 REPLACEMENT 10-10 FRONT SEATS 10-10 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-10 REAR SEAT 10-11 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-11

POWER SEAT MOTOR 10-11 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 10-11 SPECIFICATIONS CHART TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 10-12

BODY ANI) TRIM

aS eee

‘

: 10-2

BODY AND TRIM

ADJUSTMENT

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 1, 2 and 3 1. Open the door to the full wide position to make working at the hinges easier. Place a support under the bottom edge of the door to support the weight of the door. Roll down the window. 2. On the E30 models, depress the clips on the electrical connector on the pillar and remove. On the E36 models, remove the 2 bolts holding the connector to the door. Pull the connector out of the opening and pull up on the clip of the interior portion of the connector body. Separate the connector. 3. Remove the clip on the bottom of the door brake pin. Push the pin out of the bore. 4. Support the door and remove the bolts from the door hinges. The upper hinge will have the bolt at the bottom of the hinge and the lower hinge will have the bolt at the top of the hinge. Pull the door off the hinges and place upright on a padded surface. To install: 5. Check the door hinge bushing and replace if necessary. Lubricate the hinge. Place the door back on the hinges and replace the bolts. 6. Connect the door brake pin and retainer. Connect the electrical plug. 7. Close the door and check the alignment. Correct as necessary.

1. Check the gaps around the door. The gaps should be even. 2. Adjust the gap spacing by loosening the hinge mounting bolts and moving the door in the direction necessary to even out the gap. 3. Adjust the panel height at the front edge of the door by inserting hinge shims between the hinge mount and the body. The hinges are available in 0.020 inch (0.5mm) and 0.039 inch (1.0mm) thicknesses. It is acceptable to have the front door edge set lower than the front fender by up to 0.039 inches (1.0mm). This will help prevent wind noise and stone chips. 4. Adjust the rear edge of the door by moving the door striker in or out. 5. After adjustment is completed, some areas without paint may be noticed. This is due to the way the vehicle was manufactured. The doors are hung and adjusted before the vehicle is painted. By moving the hinge or striker, an unpainted area may be uncovered. Touch up this area with matching body paint.

HINGE BUSHING REPLACEMENT > See Figures 4, 5 and 6 1. Remove the door from the hinge. 2. Remove the snapping and washer from the hinge pin. Press the hinge pin out of the hinge.

3. Press the hinge bushing out of the hinge. 4. Install a new hinge bushing by pressing in. Use tool 41 5 010 or equivalent to press the bushing into place. 5. Install the hinge pin and lubricate. Install the door.

SERVICE POSITION To place the hood in the service position proceed as follows: 1. On four door models, remove the bolt just above the upper mounting pivot of the hood support strut and raise the hood to the service position. Make sure the hood is properly supported. 2. On two door models, remove the center mounting fastener of the hood hinge plate mounted to the hood. Then remove the fastener between the two hinge pivots and the hood grounding cable. 3. Carefully support the hood and remove the right side hood support strut and disconnect the top side of the left hood support strut and pivot the left strut forward. 4. Install Tool No. 51 2 140 in place of the right support strut using the retainers to safely secure the support tool.

2

84270001

Fig. 1 Unbolt the connector and pull it out of the door. Pull up on the clamp to separate the halves of the connector

84270002

Fig. 2 Remove the retainer and the press out the pin from the door brake

Fig. 3 Remove the bolt from the hinge 1. Bolt 2. Body side hinge half 3. Hinge pin 4. Door side hinge half with hinge bushing

5. Washer 6. Snapring .

84270004

Fig. 4 Remove the snapring and the

_| washer to release the hinge pin during

| bushing replacement —

BODY AND TRIM REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

ALIGNMENT

E30 Models

E30 Models

> See Figures 7 and 8

E36 Models

1. Screw in the hood stoppers on the body fully. 2. Adjust the side gaps by loosening the hinge mounting bolts on the hood and moving side to side. 3. Adjust the front hood height by loosening the bolts on the body side of the hood hinge and moving up and down. The hood should rest 0.039 inches (1.0mm) below the fenders with the hood stoppers fully retracted. 4. Adjust the rear roller so it matches the catch and slides in with no lateral force. 5. Adjust the rear catch so the rear hood height is equal with the fenders. 6. Adjust the hood stoppers so the hood slightly presses against the stoppers while in the closed position and the hood is on the same level as the fenders.

> See Figures 7 and 8

E36 Models

1. Open the hood. Disconnect the windshield washer hoses and the wiring for the heated washer jets and the underhood lights. 2. Disconnect the hood gas props at the hood attachment point by pulling out the retainer and pin. 3. Mark the alignment of the hinge on the hood and remove the hinge mounting bolts from the hood side. Remove the hood from the body. 4. Install in reverse order and check the adjustment.

1. Remove the center grilles by knocking them out from behind. Remove the hood lock cable and

1. Open the hood. Disconnect the windshield washer hoses and the wiring for the heated washer jets, if equipped. 2. If equipped with hood prop rods or gas springs, disconnect at the hood attachment point by pulling out the retainer and pin.

3. If equipped with removable hinge pins, remove the retainer and pull the hood off the body. 4. If not equipped with removable hinge pins, mark the alignment of the hinge on the hood and remove the hinge mounting bolts from the hood side. Remove the hood from the body. 5. Install in reverse order and check the adjustment.

adjust so there is no play. 2. Adjust the hood side gaps by loosening the hood hinge bolts on the hood and moving the hood side to side. 3. Adjust the hood locks by loosening the bolts and raising and lowering the hood, without allowing it to lock, to align the catches. Install one of the bolts with threadlocker and torque to 7.2 ft. Ibs. (10 Nm).

4, Adjust the hood height at the front with the spring stopper. Loosen the bolt and adjust so the hood is at a equal height with the fenders. 5. Adjust the headlights so the upper edge of the housing is recessed 0.060 inches (1.5mm) from the edge of the hood. Loosen the headlight mounting screws and turn the expansion nuts. Have the headlights aimed after this adjust-

ment.

Trunk Lid REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Open the trunk lid and disconnect the wiring. 2. Disconnect the trunk lid props from the trunk

lid. 3. Loosen, then remove the trunk hinge bolts from the trunk lid side of the hinge. Remove the trunk lid. 4. Install in reverse order and adjust.

ADJUSTMENT » See Figures 9, 10, 11 and 12 1. Adjust the height of the trunk lid at the hinge end by placing shims between the trunk lid and the hinge. 2. Adjust the side gaps by loosening the hinge bolts to the trunk lid and the catch bar mounting bolts. Align the lid and tighten the bolts. 3. Screw in the stopper pads and adjust the trunk lid height at the catch with the locking bar

84270012

93130P11

93130P13

Fig. 7 Use a paint marker to matchmark the hood hinges before removal

Fig. 8 Protect the corners of the hood by placing thick, soft, clean towels between the body and the corners. Masking tape and cardboard work well too

10-3

Fig. 9 Loosen the trunk lid hinge bolts to adjust the side gaps

84270014

Fig. 11 Move the catch to adjust the loca-

Fig. 12 Adjust the stoppers so the trunk lid

tion of the trunk lid

is aligned with the fenders

10-4

BODY AND TRIM

EE

length. Screw the locking bar in or out so the trunk lid sit 0.039 inches (1mm) below the fenders. 4. Adjust the stopper pads so the trunk lid sits flush with the fenders.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Front

E30 MODELS 1. Disconnect the wiring from the turn signals. On the M3, unscrew the splash shield. 2. Remove the covers to access the bumper shock to bumper mounting bolts. The mounting hardware on the M3 is a nut instead of a bolt. 3. Remove the mounting hardware and remove the bumper. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Torque to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm).

E36 MODELS

» See Figure 13 1, Pull the left side rubber bumper trim strip off

the bumper. Remove the nuts. 2. Remove the right side towing eye cover and remove the nuts. 3. Disconnect the outside temperature sensor. 4. Remove the bolts holding the covers at both sides, bottom of the bumper. 5. Remove the bolts in the wheel wells and remove the bumper. 6. Replace the bumper brackets, if damaged. To install: 7. \nstall the bumper and replace the wheel well bolts. Install the bottom covers. 8. Connect the temperature sensor. Install the nuts and the towing eye cover. Torque the nuts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm). - 9. Install the nuts and the left side rubber bumper trim strip with new mounting tape. Torque the nuts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm).

Rear

E30 MODELS ~ 1. Remove the bumper mounting bolts.

~ 2, Pull the bumper up and off.

90961P70

1.13 The bumper mounting nuts are der the bumper trim

3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Torque the bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm).

E36 MODELS 1. Remove the screws from the lower rear panel and pull the panel off towards the rear. 2. Remove the bumper cover bolts from inside the rear wheel wells. 3. Remove the bumper mounting bolts and pull the bumper off. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use new coated bolts or apply threadlocker to the old bolts. Torque the bolts to 35 ft. Ibs. (48 Nm).

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Outside Mirror Glass REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

1. Remove the mirror glass by inserting a thin tool into the opening at the bottom, center of the mirror. 2. Rotate the locking ring to the outside of the mirror to remove. 3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. E36 Models

» See Figures 16, 17 and 18 E30 Models

1. Open the hood and pull off the center grille clips. Pull the center grille out of the opening. 2. Pull off the side grille clips. Remove the screws and the grille. 3. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. E36 Models

1. From behind the grille, knock the grille out at the center to bottom third. The grille will move back. 2. Pull the chrome surround out of the opening. 3. Assemble the grille and install in the opening.

1. To remove the mirror glass, carefully press the top of the mirror inward until it bottoms, then carefully lift the bottom of the glass outward to release it. 2. If the mirror has a heating element, carefully remove the electrical connectors. To install: 3. On heated mirrors, connect the electrical connectors. 4. Place the mirror squarely over the adjustment base. 5. Carefully press the mirror onto the base.

Power Antenna Mast

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Outside Mirror Assembly REMOVAL & INSTALLATION > See Figures 14 and 15 1. On E30 models, remove the mirror mounting trim on the interior of the door by pulling it off towards the rear. 2. On E36 models carefully pull off from the top and slide trim upward. 3. Support the mirror and remove the bolts. Disconnect the plug and remove the mirror.

1. Turn the radio ON to extend the mast as far as it will go. 2. Remove the nut at the base of the mast. Pull the mast out of the antenna assembly. A firm pull may be necessary. To install: 3. Install the new mast cable end into the opening and turn the radio OFF to draw the mast into the housing. Guide the mast and cable into the housing. 4. Install the nut and operate the antenna several times to check the operation.

90966P59

Fig. 14 A plastic prytool works well for interior trim such as removal of the side mirror fastener trim cover

and ad

BODY AND TRIM

10-5

90966P57

Fig. 16 To remove the mirror glass, carefully press the top of the mirror inward until it bottoms, then carefully lift the bottom of the glass outward to release it

Power Antenna

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove the trim panel at the antenna location. The rear light cover may need to be removed. 2. Disconnect the antenna mounting bracket. Unplug the wiring. 3. Loosen and remove the mounting nut at the body hole, if equipped. Pull the antenna out of the opening. To install: 4. Install the antenna and the mounting nut at the body hole. 5. Install the mounting bracket and connect the wiring. 6. Install the trim panel.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION The front fenders are a bolted on design. By removing any connecting body trim and removing the mounting bolts, the front fender can be replaced. Use only factory approved replacement panels to maintain rust-through warranties and original body appearance quality. Have the new panel finished using original factory methods by a facility capable of duplicating the factory paint. The rear fenders are part of the structure of the body and cannot be unbolted to remove.

Hardtop

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Z3 Models >The two fasteners remain in the windshield panel of the vehicle upon hardtop removal.

1. Using the T-handle tool supplied in the vehicle's tool kit, loosen the two front mounting Screws. 2. Locate the rear roof lever located behind the seats and mounted at base of roof. Release the

locking lever, then turn the lever counterclockwise

to

fully loosen,

90966P56

Fig. 17 The mirror mounts on the base. Note the heating element wires where they attach to the mirror

3. With the help of an assistant, carefully lift the roof away from the vehicle. Follow the manufacturers recommendations for storage. To install: 4. Installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following: 5. The locking levers are turned clockwise to tighten the roof. 6. Use the tool kit's T-handle to tighten the fasteners at the windshield.

Convertible Top The convertible tops on are available in three versions, manually operated, semi-automatic, and a fully automatic power top.

The E36 models with an electrically operated convertible top require a special battery. This battery is designed to withstand excessive vibration generated by the opening and closing of the top. A battery not designed for this application will be subject to premature failure. The rear window for the top is made of a strong, flexible vinyl which is available separately. The replacement of the rear window should be performed by a BMW or a specialist. The manually operated tops built after 12/97 on some models have gas charged struts mounted to the roof frame to assist with opening the manual roof. The semi-automatic convertible tops must be manually released from the windshield visor latch plates and pushed back slightly. Once past the released position, the automatic retracting motor and linkage will and pull the top into the storage compartment behind the back seat. The fully automatic top, allows total operation of the top, from fully closed to fully opened by pushing the toggle switch on the console. As an added safety feature, the top switch has a “top-unlatched” indicator light. The fully automatic top front latches have an actuation motor installed in the front bow assembly of the convertible top. The motor operates the latches which releases the top from the visor latch plates and then pulls it back far enough for the main retracting assembly to open the top. The latches and motor are accessed by removal of the front trim cover for the convertible top.

90966P55

Fig. 18 Press the glass into place carefully, using even pressure

MOTOR REPLACEMENT 1. Open the convertible top until the top lid is fully open, then remove the lid. 2. Press on the micro-switch in right convertible top lid latch to release the luggage compart-

ment lock-out, then open the luggage compartment. 3. Remove the compartment trim and inner lining from left side. 4. Locate and release the electrical harness connectors for the top motor, then disengage the emergency release cable from the lever. 5. Push the lever upward to release the motor. 6. From within the convertible top storage compartment located behind the driver's seat, remove the convertible top linkage rods from top of the motor. 7. Remove the fasteners mounting the motor to the body, then remove the motor from the luggage compartment. To install: 8. The installation is in reverse order of removal noting the following: e Use anew sealing gasket where the motor mounts to the body e Apply a suitable locking agent to the motor mounting fasteners ¢ Torque the motor mounting fasteners to 88.5 inch Ibs. (10 Nm)

CONVERTIBLE TOP EMERGENCY OPERATION Automatic/Semi-Automatic Models

3 CAUTION The emergency closure procedure must only be used to close the top. Do not attempt to open the top with this procedure. Consult a BMW dealer or capable repair facility for proper repairs.

A loss of electrical power or failure of the top motor or another fault in the convertible top system could cause the top to be stuck in open, closed or somewhere in-between.. Use the following procedures as suggestions in order to close the top only in an emergency situation. Resetting procedures for convertible top operation after emergency closure

should be carried out by a BMW dealer or specialist.

10-6

BODY AND TRIM

ss.

To release the top linkage from the motor: 1. Lift the left corner under the rear seat and access the emergency release handle and pull forward and down to release.

2. Carefully push the top by hand until it is almost closed. 3. On semi-automatic tops: a. Press the top toward the windshield. b. Seat the top and lock the front latches. 4. On fully automatic tops: a. Press the top toward the windshield. b. Remove the plastic cover for the latch motor in the front bow of the top. c. Seat the top and using the S-shaped hex tool from the vehicle's tool kit, lock the front latches. e>A micro-switch located in the right convertible top lid latch that prevents the luggage compartment from being opened when the lid _ is up If necessary in emergency situations, to override the lockout and open the luggage compartment cover, press on the micro-switch and activate the release.

a. Loosen the nuts on the mounting plate studs located at the rear of the door frame on both sides. b. Remove the trim pieces at tops of door posts, c. Add or remove the U-shaped spacers for the horizontal fastener as necessary, until the top is properly aligned. d. Tighten all the fasteners. 5. Check for normal operation.

Power Sunroof

EMERGENCY CLOSURE » See Figures 19 and 20 The sunroof is equipped with an emergency closure feature should the sunroof motor fail or the vehicle has lost electrical power. To close the sunroof under these conditions: 1. Remove the front headliner trim panel.

2. Using the 6mm hex key that is included with the tool kit, insert the key into the hex socket and turn the socket to close the sunroof.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

» See Figures 21 and 22 1. Open the sunroof lid 2-4 inches (5-10cm). 2. Unclip the roof liner frame and push back into the opening. 3. Close the sunroof lid and loosen the screws on each end of the gates. 4. Pull in the retainers, remove the center screws and lift off the lid. 5. Remove the cover over the motor and gearbox. Close the sunroof lid, if not already closed. 6. Disconnect the wiring harness and remove the 3 mounting screws. Remove the motor and gearbox.

The luggage compartment cover and convertible top lid operation is timed to not interfere with one another and cannot be open at the same time. To avoid damage their painted surfaces, have a helper keep the lid down until the luggage compartment cover is closed.

ADJUSTMENT 90960P02

-3 Series Models

The visor latch is adjusted as follows: 1. Check the operation of the front a for ease of release and locking. 2. If necessary the height of a latch is changed by the adjusting screw. 3. To adjust the latch tension: a. Remove the trim on the front bow of the top. b. Adjust the ball joint pull rod length, then lubricate the latch as necessary. 4. The visor latch plates are accessed by removing the trim and moldings around the pillars and top of the windshield. The latch is secured to the top of ~ the windshield with three fasteners. Adjust as follows: a. Loosen the latch top bolts. b. Carefully align the top. c. Tighten the bolts.

Fig. 19 Remove the trim panel to access the sunroof motor

Z3 Models

1. Latch down the convertible top. 2. Check the fit between the top and the front of the windshield. The top should be flush. 3. If necessary, adjust the top up or down by moving the adjustment hooks on the threaded rod

of the visor latch.

_ seThe top should be no more than 0.079 (2.0mm) lower than the front of the wind-

shield.

‘the front-to-rear alignment must be ali besthe ame pins at the visor

1, Sunfoof lid 2. Seal 3. Roof liner frame 4. Water drain 5. Motor and gearbox 6. Wind deflector 7. Linkage for wind deflector 8. Linkage for water

90960P01

Fig. 20 Insert the 6mm hex tool from the tool kit and turn the hex socket to close the sunroof

BODY AND TRIM and gearbox must be synchronized with the hole in the drivegear aligned between the centers of the 2 gears. Torque the bolts to 2.0 ft. Ibs. (2.8 Nm). 12. Install the sunroof lid. Use new screws and torque to 2.5 ft. Ibs. (3.5 Nm). 13. Adjust the sunroof lid. Pull the roof liner frame into position and clip into place. E36 Models

» See Figures 21 and 22

84270021

1. Close the sunroof fully. With a quick actuation of the sunroof opening button, open the sunroof so the back edge of the lid depresses 0.08-0.12 inches (2—3mm). 2. Slowly push the roof liner panel back into the roof. Do not force or use a quick motion or damage could occur. 3. Remove the mounting screws and pull the lid off at the rear side. Do not operate the sunroof with the panel removed. To install: 4, Install the lid and check that the hooks and levers align. Install the screws with threadlocker or use new micro-encapsulated screws. Torque to 2.5 ft. Ibs. (3.5 Nm). 5. Adjust the sunroof lid. Lower the rear of the lid by operating the motor. Pull the liner forward and clip into place.

Fig. 22 Sunroof lid retainer clip location— E30 3 Series shown, E36 similar

7. Push the cables back evenly on both sides. Remove the rail covers and pull the cables out of the guides. 8. Place the cable in the center position of the gate and press off. To install: 9. Install the cables to the gate. The cable are marked with the proper side of installation. Do not lubricate fabric covered cables. 10. Pull the cables through guides and align the cables. Insert a hex key through the gate and cable at the 0 position. 11. Install the motor and gearbox. The motor

10-7

ADJUSTMENT E30 Models

1. Open the sunroof lid 2-4 inches (5-10cm). 2. Unclip the roof liner frame and push back into the opening. 3. Close the sunroof lid and loosen the screws on each end of the gates. 4. Adjust the sunroof panel so the front of the panel is depressed 1mm below the roof level and the rear is 1mm above the roof level. 5. Align the lid so it is centered in the opening. 6. Tighten the screws and replace the liner. E36 Models

1. Close the sunroof fully. With a quick actuation of the sunroof opening button, open the sun-

roof so the back edge of the lid depresses 0.08-0.12 inches (2-3mm). 2. Slowly push the roof liner panel back into the roof. Do not force or use a quick motion or damage could occur. 3. Loosen the adjustment screws and move the wedges to move the panel. 4. Adjust the sunroof panel so the front of the panel is depressed 1mm below the roof level and the rear is 1mm above the roof level. 5. Align the lid so it is centered in the opening. 6. Tighten the screws and replace the liner.

INTERIOR disconnect the electrical connectors as necessary. 5. Remove lower left dash trim piece as follows: a. Remove the lower dash panel mounting Screws. b. Pull the lower dash panel to the left and back and disengage it from the driver's side footwell retaining clips.

Instrument Panel and Pad

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

> CAUTION Many BMW models covered by this manual are equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors, the air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, properly disable the SRS.

6. If equipped, remove the driver's side and passenger airbags.

>< CAUTION Make sure to store the airbags properly ina safe area.

The instrument panel removal is complex and requires disconnecting many components. Make sure to label and organize the components as they are disconnected, disassembled or removed. 3 Series Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), wait for a period of 11 minutes before proceeding. 2. If equipped, disable and remove the SRS components as necessary. 3. Remove center console as outlined in this

section. 4. Remove the glove box compartment as follows: ; a. Open the glove box door and remove

2

Ive compartment mounting screws. . Pullo. glove boxcompartment outward, and “P

¥

7. Remove steering wheel. 8. Remove driver side knee bolster fasteners and remove. 9. Remove the following components: e Instrument cluster e Headlight switch e Radio e Climate control head and module. 10. Remove the turn signal and windshield wiper/washer stalk switches as outlined in Section 8 11. Remove windshield (A-pillar) trim from both left and right sides. 12. Remove the reinforcement bar below the steering column, then remove steering column shear bolts. Carefully lower steering lightly and support the column to avoid damaging the spindles.

Lowering the steering column too far can damage the spindles. 13. Remove the glove compartment support frame fasteners, then remove the frame assembly. 14. Carefully release and lift out the defroster outlets (both left and right sides) at base of windshield. Remove the screws located below the outlets. 15. Remove the mounting bolts on the left and right sides ofthe dash board assembly. 16. Carefully lift the instrument trim panel off slowly, Make sure all harness connectors and wiring are disconnected. 17. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Z3 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait for a period of 11 minutes before proceeding. 2. Disable and remove the (SRS) components as necessary. 3. Remove center console as outlined in this section.

CAUTION Make sure to store the airbags properly ina safe area.

4. Remove steering wheel. } 5. Remove driver side knee bolster fastene and remove.

10-8

BODY AND TRIM

de

6. Remove the following components: e Instrument cluster e Headlight switch e Radio e Climate control head and module. 7. Remove the turn signal and windshield wiper/washer stalk switches as outlined in Section 8. 8. Open the glove box, remove the four finishing caps near the glove box door lock catch and remove the screws. 9. Remove the trim caps and screws from the far right end of dash and next to the center air vents on right side of the center console. 10. Close the glove box, then pull it downward and out slightly. 11. Remove the two screws securing the glove box cover and remove the cover. 12. Remove the two fasteners securing the passenger side air bag bracket-to-support brace. 13. Remove the two mounting fasteners on each end of instrument panel, in the door jamb areas. 14. Remove the two mounting fasteners located under center air vents. 15. Remove screw trim caps at the base of windshield and remove the screws. 16. Carefully lift the instrument panel up and remove it from the passenger (right) side of the vehicle. 17. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Center Console

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the lower dash trim from under the steering column. 3. Pull out the ashtray from the rear of the console. Remove the screw underneath. Pull the console back and off the brake lever. Disconnect the wiring. 4. Pull the manual transmission shift knob off the shift lever. Pull the shifter boot up and off. On automatic equipped vehicles, unclip the trim on the right side of the shifter. Remove the screws exposed. 5. Pull out and disconnect the window switches.

6. Remove the screws from the forward ashtray console and lift out. Disconnect the wiring for the lighter. 7. Remove the bolts below the heater controls. Rotate the retainers on the sides of the consoles to release. Pull the console out. 8. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

lever back about % inch (5mm), then lift it and remove. 15. Remove two finishing caps on each side of center console, in the foot well areas, by the floor vents and remove the screws behind the caps. 16. Remove the two mounting fasteners inside the radio opening, below the center vents. 17. Remove the attachment screw from the bottom center and upper left and right sides of climate

E36 Models

control cover plate.

EXCEPT 23 1. Remove the ashtray, cover and the hazard switch. 2. Remove the console and glove compartment. 3. Remove the lower dash trim. Remove the gear shifter handle and the clock. 4. Remove the center console. 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. ;

Z3 MODELS 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and cover the terminal with an insulating material. 2. From behind the front seats, remove the rear center console retaining fasteners at left and right sides. 3. Remove the rubber boot around the parking brake lever by carefully prying it up. 4, Remove the left and right side lower side panel retaining screws. 5. Carefully pry off the trim caps and remove the four screws holding the left side lower instrument panel trim, then carefully remove the trim by disengaging any locking le holding the trim in place. 6. Remove the radio. 7. Remove the shifter handle. 8. Remove the shift boot or shift indicator cover from around the shifter by carefully prying back on the rear boot until the clips are disengaged. 9. Disable and remove the SRS components as necessary. 10. Pull the climate control cover plate away from instrument panel to access and unplug the switches, then remove the cover. 11. Remove the ash tray, then from under the ash tray, remove the screw attachment ash tray holder. 12. Remove storage box. 13. Press the cup holder retaining clips and remove the cup holder assembly. 14. Pull trim plate in front of parking brake

90960P28

90960P24

| Fig.23 These sturdy plastic trim panel am, °

:

io.

‘i

*

—

ey.

ee

Fig. 24 Carefully lift the mirror switch out

ofthe esla

aI ‘tool work \well aig)interior work — 4

iy!

,

18. Raise the rear of the center console slightly, while pulling it toward the rear of the vehicle, then pull the console back just far enough as is needed to disengage front locking clips. 19. Remove cigar lighter wires. 20. Slide the center console toward the left side of vehicle, then rotate it as necessary to clear the parking brake handle and remove the console. 21. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Door Panels

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

1. Remove the power mirror switch. Remove the screw underneath the switch and the screw under the armrest. Remove the armrest. 2. Remove the door lock button. Pull the inte-

rior door handle cups out. Lower the window. 3. Pull the panel out from the bottom and unclip from the top. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Check the clips and seals when replacing. Press down and in to seat. E36 Models

» See Figures 23 thru 34 1. Remove the door lock knob by turning it counterclockwise. 2. Carefully release the window switch by prying it upward. 3. Slide the door opener trim forward, remove the fastener covers at the inside door handle using a 120 Torx® bit. 4. Using a suitable trim panel removal tool or a thin, wide taped over paint scraper, carefully release the door panel from the door.

BODY AND TRIM

so

90960P26

Fig. 26 The door handle trim is removed once it has been move forward

"

90960P25

Fig. 27 Lift the door panel fastener trim covers to access the fasteners

90960P19

Fig. 28 Release the door panel from the door by locating each lock clip and carefully releasing it using a trim panel tool

90966P61

90966P64

Fig. 29 The upper trim clips are metal. Use care when pulling the door.panel off the clips

10-9

Fig. 30 A close up view of an upper door panel clip

90966P62

Fig. 31 The lower door panel clips are plastic pins that are attached to the door panel and snap into the door

90960P20

90960P21

Fig. 32 To remove a seized door lock knob without cosmetic damage, place a slit piece of fuel line over the knob, and. . .

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Fig. 33. . . secure the hose with a small hose clamp. Grip the hose clamp with a small pliers and turn the knob counterclockwise to loosen

5. Compress the actuator drive to take out any play in the linkage and tighten the screws. 6. Test the locks and install the door panel.

90960P23

Fig. 34 The door panel fasteners require a T20 Torx® bit once their trim cover is removed

Door Glass

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

E36 Models

E30 Models 1. Remove the door panel and the water shield. 2. Disconnect the wiring from the actuator. Remove the screws and pull the actuator off the linkage. 3. When installing, move the actuator and linkage to the locked position. 4. Connect the linkage to the actuator and loosely install with the screws.

1. Remove the door panel and water shield. 2. On the front doors, remove the guide rail nut and pull the guide rail down. Disconnect the wiring and the linkage from the actuator. 3. On the rear doors, remove the window and the access panel. Disconnect the wiring and the linkage from the actuator. 4. Remove the 3 bolts holding the latch and actuator to the door structure. 5. Install in reverse order using threadlocker on the bolts.

E30 Models

> See Figure 35 1. Remove the door panel and water shield. 2. Remove the inside access panel, if equipped. 3. Remove the window trim at the bottom of the window opening. 4. Remove the glass fastening screws and pull the glass out of the quide roller. Carefully remove the glass from the door.

10-10

BODY AND TRIM

a

5. Install the glass and adjust the window guides to align. Install the door water shield and panel.

Window Regulator & Motor REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

E36 Models

2D00R

E30 Models

» See Figure 35

1. Remove the door panel. 2. Remove the window glass. 3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the regulator motor. 4, Remove the mounting screws from the door panel. 5. Pull the regulator out of the door cutout. 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

1. Remove the door-panel, water shield and the upper trim strip from the glass opening. 2. Lower the glass about 6 inches (152mm) and remove the screws on the rear guide rail holder. 3. Lower the glass another 4 inches (102mm) and push the retainers at the bottom guide out. 4, Disconnect the motor connector. Loosen the screw at the bottom of the rear guide and remove the screw above it. Remove the rear stop holder. 5. Disconnect the regulator arm while holding the glass from falling. Remove the screw at the front guide and loosen the screw at the front stop. Remove the front stop holder and pull the window

glass out of the door. 6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

4 DOOR > See Figure 35

1. Remove the door panel and water shield. Lower the window about 1 ft. (approx. 30 cm). 2. Disconnect the window motor. Disconnect the clips on the lower guide rail. On the rear windows, remove the weather-stripping and trim from around the window opening. 3. Disconnect the lifting arms from the guide while lifting the window out of the door opening. The glass will remove to the outside. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Windshield Mounted » See Figures 38, 39 and 40 The mirror is mounted to a pad which is cemented to the windshield. 1. To remove the mirror, move the mirror head to allow access to the stalk. 2. Hold the base in place and rotate the base counterclockwise using the stalk to release. 3. Installation is reverse of removal.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models

E36 Models

» See Figures 36 and 37 1. Remove the door panel. On the 4 door, remove the window. On the 2 door, disconnect the window glass from the regulator and block up to support. 2. Remove the interior door handle. Drill out the regulator mounting rivets and remove the screw at the end of the arm. 3. Remove the regulator. 4. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Replace the rivets with M6x10 bolts, washers and matching nuts. Use a thread locking agent on the fasteners.

Inside Rear View Mirror

REPLACEMENT Headliner Mounted

The mirror is held with a spring clip. To remove: 1. Carefully release it from the bracket and pull out. 2. Installation is reverse of removal.

1. Slide the seat to the full back position... Remove the covers and the forward bolts. 2. Slide the seat to the full forward position. Remove the covers and the rear bolts. 3. On 4 door vehicles, remove the cap covering the seat belt bracket. Remove the bolt and bracket. 4. Disconnect the wiring and remove the seat. Be careful not to damage the interior trim while removing. 5. Lubricate the rails and install in reverse order. E36 Models

1. Move the seat up and full forward. Remove the rear bolts.

2. Turn the seat belt tensioner lock cable toggle a quarter turn to disconnect. It is accessible from the front of the seat. 3. Move the seat back and remove the front bolts. 4. On the 4 door vehicles, lift the seat and disconnect the seatbelt bolt. 5. Remove the seat. Be careful not to damage the sills or trim while removing. To install: 6. Lubricate the rails. Install the seat and bolts, but do not tighten. 7. Move the seat full forward then move back to

pit

90960P17

Fig. 35 Once the door panel is removed, the vapor barrier must be carefully removed to access the window fasteners

Fig. 36 Matchmark all of the adjustment points before removal

BODY AND TRIM

90960P13

Fig. 37 The regulator mounting rivets must be drilled out to remove the regulator

10-11

90960P06

Fig. 39. . . hold the base in place and the rotate the base using the stalk to release

90960P05

90960P07

Fig. 38 To remove the mirror, move the mirror head to allaw access to the stalk, then.

Fig. 40 The mirror shown released from its mount

. .

the second catch from the full forward position. Check that the catches have engaged properly. 8. Push the seat forward a few times from the back seat and tighten the rear bolts. 9. Move the seat back and check that the catches engage at each position. Tighten the front bolts.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION E30 Models 1. Pull the front of the seat cushion up to disengage from the clips. 2. Pull the cushion out from under the backrest and remove from the vehicle. 3. Remove the bolts from the brackets at the bottom of the backrest. 4. Remove the backrest from the vehicle. 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal pro-

E36 Models

1. Pull the front of the seat cushion up to disengage from the clips. 2. Pull the cushion out from under the backrest and remove from the vehicle. 3. On vehicles without fold down seats, pull the top of the backrest forward and lift out of the vehicle. 4. When equipped with the fold down rear seat, unscrew the seat belt lower bolt, fold the seat down and remove the hinge cover. Press the lock in and remove the backrest. 5. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Power Seat Motor

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Remove the seat from the vehicle. Disconnect the side panels by unclipping and removing the screws. Disconnect the switches.

2. Remove the seat control unit from under the seat. Use tool 52 1 100 or equivalent to drive out the 4 bearing pins. 3. Drill out the rivets and remove the base

plate. 4, Remove the front seat height motor and remove the rails. 5. Remove the fore/aft motor. 6. Remove the backrest cover by removing the 2 screw at the sides, if equipped, and pushing the cover up to disengage the clips. Pull the cover off and disconnect the wiring. 7. At the lower sides, press the levers down to disconnect the backrest. Pull the headrest out. 8. Loosen the headrest gearbox cover. Remove the bolts and take off the gearbox. Remove the motor from the gearbox. 9. Loosen the bottom seat cushion cover. Remove the bolts at the cable shaft retainer plate on the motor and remove the shafts. 10. Remove the screws and the snapring at the backrest fittings. Remove the motors.

a

10-12

BODY AND TRIM

ss.

To install: 11. Install the motors. The black plug is for the backrest position motor and the white plug is for the seat up/down motor. 12. Lubricate the splines for the backrest fittings and install the sleeve. Install the fittings and snapring. 13. Install the motor shaft and retainer plate. Install the seat cover.

14. Install the headrest motor and gearbox. Install the headrest. 15. Install the backrest on the seat bottom. Connect the electrical leads. The plug colors will match. 16. Install the backrest cover and screws. 17. Lubricate the splines and install the fore/aft motor. Connect the spring at the fore/aft motor before tightening the mounting nuts. 18. Install the seat front height motor. Check

Component Bumper to bumper shock: Hood lock catch mounting bolts:

Sunroof motor mounting bolts: ; Sunroof lid mounting screws: . _ Seat belt mounting bolts: ‘Seat belt height control mounting bolts:

that the linkage is in the same position on both sides. Lubricate the splines and install the sleeves. 19, Install the base plate with new rivets or bolts. Install the 4 bearing pins with tool 52 1 100 or equivalent. Check that the retainer and stops are not damaged. 20. Install the control unit and the side panels. :

English 35 ft. Ibs. 88.5 inch Ibs.

Metric 48 Nm 10 Nm

24.8 inch Ibs.

2.8 Nm

31 inch Ibs. 35 ft. Ibs. 17 ft. Ibs.

3.5 Nm 48 Nm — 24 Nm

TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX 11-2 SECTION 1: ENGINE 11-2 SECTION 2: DRIVE TRAIN 11-3 SECTION 3: BRAKE SYSTEM 11-3 SECTION 4: WHEELS, TIRES, STEERING AND SUSPENSION 11-4 SECTION 5: ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES 11-4 SECTION 6: INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES 11-5 SECTION 7: CLIMATE CONTROL 11-5 DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES 11-6 SECTION 1: ENGINE 11-6 ENGINE STARTING PROBLEMS 11-6 ENGINE RUNNING CONDITIONS 11-7 ENGINE NOISES, ODORS AND VIBRATIONS 11-8 ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 11-8 ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM 11-9 ENGINE EXHAUST SYSTEM 11-9 SECTION 2: DRIVE TRAIN 11-9 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 11-9 MANUAL TRANSMISSION 11-10 CLUTCH 11-10 DIFFERENTIAL AND FINAL DRIVE 11-10 TRANSFER ASSEMBLY 11-10 DRIVESHAFT 11-11 AXLES 11-11 OTHER DRIVE TRAIN CONDITIONS 11-11 SECTION 3: BRAKE SYSTEM 11-11 BRAKE SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING 11-11 SECTION 4: WHEELS, TIRES, STEERING AND SUSPENSION 11-12 WHEELS AND WHEEL BEARINGS 11-12 TIRES 11-12 STEERING 11-12 SUSPENSION 11-12 DRIVING NOISES AND VIBRATIONS 11-13 SECTION 5: ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES 11-13 HEADLIGHTS 11-13 TAIL, RUNNING AND SIDE MARKER LIGHTS 11-13 INTERIOR LIGHTS 11-14 BRAKE LIGHTS 11-14 WARNING LIGHTS 11-14 TURN SIGNAL AND 4-WAY HAZARD LIGHTS 11-15 HORN 11-15 WINDSHIELD WIPERS 11-15 SECTION 6: INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES 11-15 SPEEDOMETER (CABLE OPERATED) 11-15

SPEEDOMETER (ELECTRONICALLY OPERATED) 11-16 FUEL, TEMPERATURE AND OIL PRESSURE GAUGES 11-16 SECTION 7: CLIMATE CONTROL 11-16 AIR CONDITIONER 11-16 HEATER 11-16

TROUBLESHOOTING TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX 11-2 DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES 11-6

11-2

TROUBLESHOOTING

ss.

Section/Item Number

Condition

The following troubleshooting charts are divided into 7 sections covering engine, drive train, brakes, wheels/tires/steering/suspension, electrical accessories, instruments and condition, refer to the gauges, and climate control. The first portion (or index) consists of a list of symptoms, along with section and item numbers. After selecting the appropriate corresponding diagnostic procedure in the second portion’s specified location.

INDEX

A. Engine Starting Problems Gasoline Engines Engine turns over, but will not start Engine Engine Starter Engine Engine

1-A 1-A 1-A, 1-A 1-A 1-A

does not turn over when attempting to start stalls immediately when started motor spins, but does not engage is difficult to start when cold is difficult to start when hot

Diesel Engines Engine Engine Engine Starter Engine

a

1-A, 1 1-A, 2 1-A,3 1-A, 4 1-A, 5

turns over but won't start does not turn over when attempting to start stalls after starting motor spins, but does not engage is difficult to start

B. Engine Running Conditions Gasoline Engines Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine Engine

1 | 1 11

runs poorly, hesitates lacks power has poor fuel economy runs on (diesels) when turned off knocks and pings during heavy acceleration, and on steep hills accelerates but vehicle does not gain speed

1

Diesel Engines Engine runs poorly Engine lacks power

1-B, 1 1-B, 2

C. Engine Noises, Odors and Vibrations Engine makes a knocking or pinging noise when accelerating Starter motor grinds when used Engine makes a screeching noise Engine makes a growling noise Engine makes a ticking or tapping noise Engine makes a heavy knocking noise Vehicle has a fuel odor when driven Vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven Vehicle has a sweet odor when driven Engine vibrates when idling Engine vibrates during acceleration

D. Engine Electrical System Battery goes dead while driving

t 1

—

Poe Fe nite 1D, fee

.

1-0, 2m

Battery goes dead overnight

i

a E. Engine Cooling System ara

" Engine overheats ____

Engine loses coolant inetemperature remains cold when driving

m@ F. Engine Exhaust System

Exhaust

rattles atidlespeed ene.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Condition

Section/Item Number

SECTION 2. DRIVE TRAIN

|

Transmission shifts erratically

2

Transmission will not engage

2-

Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration

2

B. Manual Transmission Transmission Transmission Transmission Transmission

grinds going into forward gears while driving jumps out of gear difficult to shift leaks fluid

2 2 22

1;2-C, 2

2 3; 2-C, 2

4

C. Clutch Clutch Clutch Clutch Clutch Clutch

slips on hills or during sudden acceleration will not disengage, difficult to shift is noisy when the clutch pedal is pressed pedal extremely difficult to press pedal remains down when pressed

Clutch chatters when engaging

2 2 2 22

2

D. Differential and Final Drive Differential makes a low pitched rumbling noise Differential makes a howling noise

22

E. Transfer Assembly All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Leaks fluid from seals or vent after being driven Makes excessive noise while driving Jumps out of gear

2-E, 1 2-E, 2 2-E, 3

F. Driveshaft Rear Wheel, All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Clunking noise from center of vehicle shifting from forward to reverse Excessive vibration from center of vehicle when accelerating

2-F, 2-F,

All Whee! and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise Front or Rear wheel vibrates with increased speed

Front Wheel Drive Vehicles Front wheel makes a clicking noise Rear wheel makes a clicking noise

Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise Rear wheel shudders or vibrates

2 2-

H. Other Drive Train Conditions Burning odor from center of vehicle when accelerating Engine accelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed

SECTION 3. BRAKE SYSTEM Brakes pedal pulsates or shimmies when pressed Brakes make a squealing noise BR

a

11-3

22

11-4

TROUBLESHOOTING Section/Item Number

Condition

3-A, 7 3-A, 8 3-A, 9

Vehicle has excessive front end dive or locks rear brakes too easily Brake pedal goes to floor when pressed and will not pump up Brakes make a burning odor

SECTION 4. WHEELS, TIRES, STEERING AND SUSPENSION All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles Front wheel or wheel bearing loose Rear wheel or wheel bearing loose

4-A,1 4-A, 2

Front Wheel Drive Vehicles

4-A, 1 4-A, 2

Front wheel or wheel bearing loose Rear wheel or wheel bearing loose

Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles Front wheel or wheel bearing loose Rear wheel or wheel bearing loose

4-A,1 4-A, 2

Tires worn on inside tread Tires worn on outside tread Tires worn unevenly

4-B, 1 4-B, 2 4-B, 3

Excessive play Steering wheel Steering wheel Steering wheel

4 43 4

in steering wheel shakes at cruising speeds shakes when braking becomes stiff when turned

D. Suspension Vehicle Vehicle Vehicle Vehicle Vehicle

pulls to one side is very bouncy over bumps seems to lean excessively in turns ride quality seems excessively harsh seems low or leans to one side

44 4 44

E. Driving Noises and Vibrations Noises Vehicle makes a clicking noise when driven

4-E, 1 4-E, 2 4-E, 3 4-E,4

Vehicle makes a clunking or knocking noise over bumps Vehicle makes a low pitched rumbling noise when driven Vehicle makes a squeaking noise over bumps

Vibrations Vehicle vibrates when driven

4-E,5

SECTION 5. ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES One headlight only works on high or low beam Headlight does not work on high or low beam Headlight(s) very dim

J

5-A, 1 5-A, 2 5-A, 3

B. Tail, Running and Side Marker Lights ; ‘, Le

Tail light, running light or side marker light inoperative Tail light, running light or side marker light works intermittently Tail light, running light or side marker light very dim

= C. Interior Lights Interior light inoperative ran | -

nterior light works intermittently

or light verydim

} ‘

Sa) '

5-Be as Py . i 5-8; 2° > Se? 5-8, a3) ae a,

| ;

TROUBLESHOOTING Condition

11-5

Section/Item Number

D. Brake Lights One brake light inoperative Both brake lights inoperative One or both brake lights very dim

E. Warning Lights

5-D, 5-D, 5-D

— wre

:

Ignition, Battery and Alternator Warning Lights, Check Engine Light, Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Light, Brake Warning Light, Oil Pressure Warning Light, and Parking Brake Warning Light Warning light(s) remains on after the engine is started Warning light(s) flickers on and off when driving Warning light(s) inoperative with ignition on, and engine not started

5-E, 1 5-E, 2 5-E, 3

F. Turn Signal and 4-Way Hazard Lights Turn signals or hazard lights come on, but do not flash Turn signals or hazard lights do not function on either side Turn signals or hazard lights only work on one side One signal light does not work Turn signals flash too slowly Turn signals flash too fast Four-way hazard flasher indicator light inoperative Turn signal indicator light(s) do not work in either direction One turn signal indicator light does not work

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Horn does not operate

5-G,

Horn has an unusual tone

5-G

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H. Windshield Wipers Windshield Windshield Windshield Windshield

wipers do not operate wiper motor makes a humming noise, gets hot or blows fuses wiper motor operates but one or both wipers fail to move wipers will not park:

5 5 5 5

a ine rs 4

SECTION 6. INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES Speedometer does not work Speedometer needle fluctuates when driving at steady speeds Speedometer works intermittently

6-A, 1 6-A, 2 6-A, 3

B. Speedometer (Electronically Operated) Speedometer does not work Speedometer works intermittently

6-B, 6-B

C. Fuel, Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges Gauge does not register Gauge operates erratically Gauge operates fully pegged

6-C, 1 6-C, 2 6-C, 3

SECTION 7. CLIMATE CONTROL | No air coming from air conditioner vents

Air conditioner blows warm air

7-A, 1

‘

T-A, 2

Water collects on the interior floor when the air conditioner is used Air conditioner has a moldy odor when used

7-A,3 7-A, 4

| J

Blower motor does not

2

windst

+

7-B, 1

7-B, 3 Le

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11-6

TROUBLESHOOTING DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES

1-A. Engine Starting Problems Gasoline Engines 1. Engine turns over, but will not start a. Check fuel level in fuel tank, add fuel if empty. b. Check battery condition and state of charge. If voltage and load test below specification, charge or replace battery. c. Check battery terminal and cable condition and tightness. Clean terminals and replace damaged, worn or corroded cables. d. Check fuel delivery system. If fuel is not reaching the fuel injectors, check for a loose electrical connector or defective fuse, relay or fuel pump and replace as necessary. e, Engine may have excessive wear or mechanical damage such as low cylinder cranking pressure, a broken camshaft drive system, insufficient valve clearance or bent valves. f. Check for fuel contamination such as water in the fuel. During winter months, the water may freeze and cause a fuel restriction. Adding a fuel additive may help, however the fuel system may require draining and purging with fresh fuel. g. Check for ignition system failure. Check for loose or shorted wires or damaged ignition system components. Check the spark plugs for excessive wear or incorrect electrode gap. If the problem is worse in wet weather, check for shorts between the spark plugs and the ignition coils. h. Check the engine management system for a failed sensor or contro! module. 2. Engine does not turn over when attempting to start a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the alternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replace the battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output. b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehi-

cles, try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, depress the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Replace or adjust the switches as necessary. Q . Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires. Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose, damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try using a remote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or corroded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components. d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water. Remove the spark plugs and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a suitable breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. If the engine is resistant to moving, or moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining the problem. 3. Engine stalls immediately when started a. Check the ignition switch condition and operation. The electrical contacts in the run position may be worn or damaged. Try restarting the engine with all electrical accessories in the off position. Sometimes turning the key on an off will help in emergency situations, however once the switch has shown signs of failure, it should be replaced as soon as possible. b. Check for loose, corroded, damaged or shorted wires for the ignition system and repair or replace. c. Check for manifold vacuum leaks or vacuum hose leakage and repair or replace parts as necessary. d. Measure the fuel pump delivery volume and pressure. Low fuel pump pressure can also be noticed as a lack of power when accelerating. Make sure the fuel pump lines are not restricted. The fuel pump output is notadjustable and requires fuel pump replacement to repair. e. Check the engine fuel and ignition management system. Inspect the sensor wiring

and electrical connectors. A dirty, loose or damaged sensor or contro! module wire can simulate a failed component. 4 t Check the exhaust system for internal restrictions. 4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage

: . Check aa motor for aseized or binding pinion gear.

Replace the battery if marginal and the starter motor if the current draw is beyond specification. b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean the battery terminals and replace corroded or damaged cables. c. Check the fuel system for proper operation. A fuel pump with insufficient fuel pressure or clogged injectors should be replaced. d. Check the engine's tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification. e. Check for a failed coolant temperature sensor, and replace if out of specification. f. Check the operation of the engine management systems for fuel and ignition; repair or replace failed components as necessary. 6. Engine is difficult to start when hot a. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or con-

taminated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage. b. Check for loose or deteriorated engine grounds and clean, tighten or replace as needed. c. Check for needed maintenance. Inspect tune-up and service related items such as

spark plugs and engine oil condition, and check the operation of the engine fuel and ignition management system.

Diesel Engines 1. Engine turns over but won’t start a. Check engine starting procedure and restart engine. b. Check the glow plug operation and repair or replace as necessary. c. Check for air in the fuel system or fuel filter and bleed the air as necessary. d. Check the fuel delivery system and repair or replace as necessary.

e, Check fuel level and add fuel as needed. f. Check fuel quality. If the fuel is contaminated, drain and flush the fuel tank. g. Check engine compression. If compression is below specification, the engine may need to be renewed or replaced. h. Check the injection pump timing and set to specification. i. Check the injection pump condition and replace as necessary. j. Check the fuel nozzle operation and condition or replace as necessary. 2. Engine does not turn over when attempting to start a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the alternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replace the battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output. b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehicles, try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, depress the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Replace or adjust the switches as necessary. Q . Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires. Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose, damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try

using a remote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or corroded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components.

~ d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water. Remove the injectors and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a

suitable breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. Ifthe engine is resistant to moving, or moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining the cause of the problem. he “ahd

3. Engine stalls after starting

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a. Check for a restriction in the fuel return line or the return line: b. « val repair as necessary. b. Check the glow plug operation for turning theglow plugs off as necessary. c. Check for incorrect injection pump timing and reset to ) d. Test the engine fuel pump and replace ifthe output is e. Check for contaminated or incorrect fuel. a ‘, replace with fresh fuel.

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h. Check for a failed injection pump. Replace the pump, making sure to properly set the pump timing.

4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage a. Check the starter motor for a seized or binding pinion gear. b. Remove the flywheel inspection plate and check for a damaged ring gear.

1-B. Engine Running Conditions Gasoline Engines 1. Engine runs poorly, hesitates a. Check the engine ignition system operation and adjust if possible, or replace defective parts. b. Check for restricted fuel injectors and replace as necessary. c. Check the fuel pump output and delivery. Inspect fuel lines for restrictions. If the fuel pump pressure is below specification, replace the fuel pump. d. Check the operation of the engine management system and repair as necessary. 2. Engine lacks power a. Check the engine's tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification. b. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contaminated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage. c. Check the operation of the engine fuel and ignition management systems. Check the sensor.operation and wiring. Check for low fuel pump pressure and repair or

replace components as necessary. d. Check the throttle linkage adjustments. Check to make sure the linkage is fully opening the throttle. Replace any worn or defective bushings or linkages. e. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or internally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet temperatures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is restricted. f. Check for a loose or defective knock sensor. A loose, improperly torqued or defective knock sensor will decrease spark advance and reduce power. Replace defective knock sensors and install using the recommended torque specification. g. Check for engine mechanical conditions such as low compression, worn piston rings, worn valves, worn camshafts and related parts. An engine which has severe mechanical wear, or has suffered internal mechanical damage must be rebuilt or

replaced to restore lost power. h. Check the engine oil level for being overfilled. Adjust the engine's oil level, or change the engine oil and filter, and top off to the correct level. i. Check for an intake manifold or vacuum hose leak. Replace leaking gaskets or worn vacuum hoses. j. Check for dragging brakes and replace or repair as necessary. k. Check tire air pressure and tire wear. Adjust the pressure to the recommended settings. Check the tire wear for possible alignment problems causing increased rolling resistance, decreased acceleration and increased fuel usage. |. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated fuel.

3. Poor fuel economy a. Inspect the air filter and check for any air restrictions going into the air filter housing. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contaminated. b. Check the engine for tune-up and related adjustments. Replace worn ignition parts, check the engine ignition timing and fuel mixture, and set to specifications if possible. c. Check the tire size, tire wear, alignment and tire pressure. Large tires create more rolling resistance, smaller tires require more engine speed to maintain a vehicle's road speed. Excessive tire wear can be caused by incorrect tire pressure, incorrect wheel alignment or a suspension problem. All of these conditions create increased

rolling resistance, causing the engine to work harder to accelerate and maintain a vehicle's speed. d. Inspect the brakes for binding or excessive drag. A sticking brake caliper, overly adjusted brake shoe, broken brake shoe return spring, or binding parking brake cable or linkage can create a significant drag, brake wear and loss of fuelYanai Check the brake system operation and repair as necessary.

4. Engine runs on (diesels) when turned off a. Check for idle speed set too high and readjust to specification. b. Check the operation of the idle control valve, and replace if defective. c. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings. Check for defective sensors or related components and replace if defective. esleak at the intake manifold or vacuum hose and replace defec-

hoses.

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11-7 ee

f. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sensors or control units. g. Check the engine operating temperature for overheating and repair as necessary.

5. Engine knocks and pings during heavy acceleration, and on steep hills a. Check the octane rating of the fuel used during refilling, and use a higher octane rated fuel. b. Check the ignition timing and adjust to recommended settings. Check for defective sensors or related components and replace if defective. c. Check the engine for excessive carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Use a recommended decarbonizing fuel additive or disassemble the cylinder head to remove the carbon. d. Check the spark plugs for the correct type, electrode gap and heat range. Replace worn or damaged spark plugs. For severe or continuous high speed use, install a spark plug that is one heat range colder. e. Check the operation of the engine fuel management system and replace defective sensors or control units. f. Check for a restricted exhaust system. Check for bent or crimped exhaust pipes, or internally restricted mufflers or catalytic converters. Compare inlet and outlet temperatures for the converter or muffler. If the inlet is hot, but outlet cold, the component is restricted. 6. Engine accelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed a. On manual transmission vehicles, check for causes of a slipping clutch. Refer to the clutch troubleshooting section for additional information. b. On automatic transmission vehicles, check for a slipping transmission. Check the transmission fluid level and condition. If the fluid level is too high, adjust to the correct level. If the fluid level is low, top off using the recommended fluid type. If the fluid exhibits a burning odor, the transmission has been slipping internally. Changing the fluid and filter may help temporarily, however in this situation a transmission may require overhauling to ensure long-term reliability.

Diesel Engines

1. Engine runs poorly a. Check the injection pump timing and adjust to specification. b. Check for air in the fuel lines or leaks, and bleed the air from the fuel system. c. Check the fuel filter, fuel feed and return lines for a restriction and repair as necessary. d. Check the fuel for contamination, drain and flush the fuel tank and replenish with fresh fuel. 2. Engine lacks power a. Inspect the air intake system and air filter for restrictions and, if necessary, replace the air filter. b. Verify the injection pump timing and reset if out of specification. c. Check the exhaust for an internal restriction and replace failed parts. d. Check for a restricted fuel filter and, if restricted, replace the filter. e. Inspect the fuel filler cap vent . When removing the filler cap, listen for excessive hissing noises indicating a blockage in the fuel filler cap vents. If the filler cap vents are blocked, replace the cap. f. Check the fuel system for restrictions and repair as necessary. g. Check for low engine compression and inspect for external leakage at the glow plugs or nozzles. If no external leakage is noted, repair or replace the engine.

ENGINE PERFORMANCE TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS When troubleshooting an engine running or performance condition, the mechanical condition of the engine should be determined before \engthy troubleshooting procedures are performed. The engine fuel management systems in fuel injected vehicles rely on electronic sensors to provide information to the engine control unit for precise fuel metering. Unlike carburetors, which use the incoming air speed to draw fuel through the fuel metering jets in order to provide a proper fuel-to-air ratio, a fuel injection system provides a specific amount of fuel which is introduced by the fuel injectors into the intake manifold or intake port, based on the information provided by electronic sensors. The sensors monitor the engine's operating temperature, ambient temperature and the amount of air entering the engine, engine speed and throttle position to provide information to the engine control unit, which, in turn, operates the fuel injectors by electrical pulses. The sensors provide information to the engine control unit using low voltage electrical signals. As a result, an unplugged sensor or a poor electrical contact could cause a poor running condition similar to'a failed sensor. When troubleshooting a fuel related engine condition on fuel injected vehicles, carefully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make

sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should not be used, as they could ~e a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

11-8 ne

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TROUBLESHOOTING a

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The engine electrical system provides the necessary electrical power to operate the vehicle's electrical accessories, electronic control units and sensors. Because engine management systems are sensitive to voltage changes, an alternator which over or undercharges could cause engine running problems or component failure. Most alternators utilize internal voltage regulators which cannot be adjusted and must be replaced individually or as a unit with the alternator. Ignition systems may be controlled by, or linked to, the engine fuel management system. Similar to the fuel injection system, these ignition systems rely on electronic sensors for information to determine the optimum ignition timing for a given engine speed and load. Some ignition systems no longer allow the ignition timing to be adjusted. Feedback from low voltage electrical sensors provide information to the control unit to

determine the amount of ignition advance. On these systems, if a failure occurs the failed component must be replaced. Before replacing suspected failed electrical components, carefully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should be avoided, as they could leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

1-C. Engine Noises, Odors and Vibrations 1. Engine makes a knocking or pinging noise when accelerating a. Check the octane rating of the fuel being used. Depending on the type of driving or driving conditions, it may be necessary to use a higher octane fuel. b. Verify the ignition system settings and operation. Improperly adjusted ignition timing or a failed component, such as a knock sensor, may cause the ignition timing to advance excessively or prematurely. Check the ignition system operation and adjust, or replace components as needed. c. Check the spark plug gap, heat range and condition. If the vehicle is operated in severe operating conditions or at continuous high speeds, use a colder heat range spark plug. Adjust the spark plug gap to the manufacturer's recommended specification and replace worn or damaged spark plugs.

2. Starter motor grinds when used a. Examine the starter pinion gear and the engine ring gear for damage, and replace damaged parts. b. Check the starter mounting bolts and housing. If the housing is cracked or damaged replace the starter motor and check the mounting bolts for tightness. 3. Engine makes a screeching noise a. Check the accessory drive belts for looseness and adjust as necessary. b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for seizing or excessive bearing noises and replace if loose, binding, or excessively noisy. c. Check for a seizing water pump. The pump may not be leaking; however, the bear-

ing may be faulty or the impeller loose and jammed. Replace the water pump. 4. Engine makes a growling noise a. Check for a loose or failing water pump. Replace the pump and engine coolant. b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for excessive bearing noises and replace if loose or excessively noisy. 5. Engine makes a ticking or tapping noise a. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low or dirty engine. oil and top off or replace the engine oil and filter. b. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for collapsed lifters and replace failed components.

c. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low oil pressure caused by a restricted oil filter, worn engine oil pump, or oil pressure relief valve. d. On vehicles with manually adjusted valves, check for excessive valve clearance or worn valve train parts. Adjust the valves to specification or replace worn and defective parts. ‘.___ @. Check for a loose or improperly tensioned timing belt or timing chain and adjust or replace parts as necessary. ~ f. Check for a bent or sticking exhaust or intake valve. Remove the engine cylinder oA ‘head to access and replace. q

i6. Engine makes a heavy knocking noise a. Checkfor a loose crankshaft pulley or flywheel; replace and torque the mounting —_ bolt(s) to specification. Check for a bent connecting rod caused by a hydro-lock condition. Engine disasbly is necessary to inspect for damaged and needed replacement parts. Check for excessive engine rod bearing wear or damage. This condition is also r with low engine oil pressure and will require engine disassembly to suns needed replacement parts.

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refueling. The odor should clear after driving an hour, or twenty miles, allowing the vapor canister to purge.

Check the fuel filler cap for looseness or seepage. Check the cap tightness and, if loose, properly secure. If seepage is noted, replace the filler cap. tes pie Check for loose hose clamps, cracked or damaged fuel delivery and return lines, or leaking components or seals, and replace or repair as necessary. Qa Check the vehicle's fuel economy, If fuel consumption has increased due to a failed component, or if the fuel is not properly ignited due to an ignition related failure,

the catalytic converter may become contaminated. This condition may also trigger the check engine warning light. Check the spark plugs for a dark, rich condition or verify the condition by testing the vehicle's emissions. Replace fuel fouled spark plugs, and test and replace failed components as necessary. 8. Vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven a. Check for a leaking intake gasket or vacuum leak causing a lean running condition. A lean mixture may result in increased exhaust temperatures, causing the catalytic converter to run hotter than normal. This condition may also trigger the check engine warning light. Check and repair the vacuum leaks as necessary. b. Check the vehicle's alternator and battery condition. If the alternator is overcharging, the battery electrolyte can be boiled from the battery, and the battery casing may begin to crack, swell or bulge, damaging or shorting the battery internally. If this has occurred, neutralize the battery mounting area with a suitable baking soda and water mixture or equivalent, and replace the alternator or voltage regulator. Inspect, service, and load test the battery, and replace if nec-

essary. 9. Vehicle has a sweet odor when driven a. Check for an engine coolant leak caused by a seeping radiator cap, loose hose clamp, weeping cooling system seal, gasket or cooling system hose and replace or repair as needed.

b. Check for a coolant leak from the radiator, coolant reservoir, heater control valve or under the dashboard from the heater core, and replace the failed part as necessary. ' c. Check the engine's exhaust for white smoke in addition to a sweet odor. The presence of white, steamy smoke with a sweet odor indicates coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. Possible causes include a failed head gasket, cracked engine block or cylinder head. Other symptoms of this condition include a white paste build-up on the inside of the oil filler cap, and softened, deformed or bulging radiator hoses.

10. Engine vibrates when idling a. Check for loose, collapsed, or damaged engine or transmission mounts and repair

or replace as necessary. b. Check for loose or damaged engine covers or shields and secure or replace as nec-

essary. 11. Engine vibrates during acceleration a. Check for missing, loose or damaged exhaust system hangers and mounts; replace or repair as necessary. b. Check the exhaust system routing and fit for adequate clearance or potential rubbing; repair or adjust as necessary.

1-D. Engine Electrical System

|

1. Battery goes dead while driving — ad a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold cha a or fails a battery load test. Ifthe battery loses fluid while driving, charging condition. If the alternator is overcharging, replace the age regulator. (A voltage regulator is typically built into the alterr alternator replacement or overhaul.) b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean or replace corrodedcabS battery terminals. c. Check the alternator and voltage regulator operation. Ifthe char or undercharging, replace the alternator or voltage regulator, or b d. Inspect the wiring and wire connectors at the alternator for loose ground or defective terminal, and repair as necessary. e. Inspect the alternator drive belt tension, tensioners and cond the drive belt, replace weak or broken tensioners, and me or cracked. 2. Battery goes dead overnight

a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery ifthe or fails a battery load test.

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TROUBLESHOOTING 1-E. Engine Cooling System 1. Engine overheats a. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot and check for internal air pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system with the correct coolant mixture.

b. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture. c. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation. Check for blown fuses or defective fan motors, temperature sensors and relays, and replace failed components. d. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket casting in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary. e. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage is too severe for flushing. f. Check for a damaged water pump. If coolant circulation is poor, check for a loose water pump impeller. If the impeller is loose, replace the water pump.

2. Engine loses coolant a. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture. b. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket casting in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary. 3. Engine temperature remains cold when driving a. Check the thermostat operation. Replace the thermostat if it sticks in the open position. b. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation. Check for defective temperature sensors and stuck relays, and replace failed components. c. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective components.

4. Engine runs hot a. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage is too severe for flushing. b. Check for a loose or slipping water pump drive belt. Inspect the drive belt condition. Replace the belt if brittle, cracked or damaged. Check the pulley condition and properly tension the belt. c. Check the cooling fan operation. Replace defective fan motors, sensors or relays as necessary. d. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective components. e. Check the coolant level.Set the heater temperature to full hot, check for internal air pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system with the correct coolant mixture. Once the engine is cool, recheck the fluid level and top off as needed. NOTE: The engine cooling system can also be affected by an engine’s mechanical condition. A failed head gasket or a porous casting in the engine block or cylinder head could cause a loss of coolant and result in engine overheating.

11-9

Some cooling systems rely on electrically driven cooling fans to cool the radiator and use electrical temperature sensors and relays to operate the cooling fan. When diagnosing these systems, check for blown fuses, damaged wires and verify that the electrical connections are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts could leave a film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

1-F. Engine Exhaust System 1. Exhaust rattles at idle speed a. Check the engine and transmission mounts and replace mounts showing signs of damage or wear. i . Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or damaged mounts. OQ. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing engine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as

necessary. . Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making contact with the vehicle in any manner, loosen and reposition the exhaust system.

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2. Exhaust system vibrates when driving a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or damaged mounts. ao. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making contact with the vehicle in any manner, check for bent or damaged components and replace, then loosen and reposition the exhaust system. oO. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing engine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary. ~ Exhaust system m~. Check the exhaust aged mounts. b. Check the exhaust components. If the exhaust system.

hangs too low hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-

routing and alignment. Check and replace bent or damaged exhaust is not routed properly, loosen and reposition the

4. Exhaust sounds loud a. Check the system for looseness and leaks. Check the exhaust pipes, clamps, flange bolts and manifold fasteners for tightness. Check and replace any failed gaskets. b. Check and replace exhaust silencers that have a loss of efficiency due to internally broken baffles or worn packing material. c. Check for missing mufflers and silencers that have been replaced with straight pipes or with non-original equipment silencers. NOTE: Exhaust system rattles, vibration and proper alignment should not be overlooked. Excessive vibration caused by collapsed engine mounts, damaged or missing exhaust hangers and misalignment may cause surface cracks and broken welds, creating exhaust leaks or internal damage to exhaust components such as the catalytic converter, creating a restriction to exhaust flow and loss of power.

2. DRIVE TRAIN 2-A. Automatic Transmission 1. Transmission shifts erratically a. Check and if not within the recommended range, add or remove transmission fluid to obtain the correct fluid level. Always use the yopallaines fluid type when adding transmission fluid. b. Check the fluid level condition. Ifthe fluid has become Sarearinek fatigued from excessive heat or exhibits a burning odor, change the transmission fluid and filter using the recommended type and amount of fluid. A fluid which exhibits a burning odor indi-

cates thatthetransmission has been slipping eh and may require future oa

e. Check for loose or disconnected shift and throttle linkages or vacuum hoses, and repair as necessary. 2. Transmission will not engage a. Check the shift linkage for looseness, wear and proper adjustment, and repair as

necessary. ' b. Check for a loss of transmission fluid and top off as needed with the recommended fluid. c. If the transmission does not engage with the shift linkage correctly installed and the proper fluid level, internal damage has likely occurred, requiring transmission removal and disassembly. 3. Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration a. On computer controlled transmissions, check for failed sensors or control units and repair or replace defective components. o dik te ae

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b. On vehicles with kickdown linkages’ or vacuum servos, check for proper linkage adjustment or leaking vacuum hoses or servo units.

NOTE: Many automatic transmissions use an electronic control module, electrical sensors and solenoids to control transmission shifting. When troubleshooting a vehicle with this type of system, be sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts could leave a film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

2-B. Manual Transmission 1. Transmission grinds going into forward gears while driving a. Check the clutch release system. On clutches with a mechanical or cable linkage, check the adjustment. Adjust the clutch pedal to have 1 inch (25mm) of free-play at the pedal. b. If the clutch release system is hydraulically operated, check the fluid level and, if low, top off using the recommended type and amount of fluid. c. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers. d. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve. e. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear. 2. Transmission jumps out of gear a. Shift shaft detent springs worn. Replace shift detent springs. b. Synchronizer sliding sleeve worn. Remove transmission and replace sliding sleeve. c. Gear engagement dogs worn or damaged. Remove transmission and replace gear. d. Crankshaft thrust bearings worn. Remove engine and crankshaft, and repair as necessary.

3. Transmission difficult to shift a. Verify the clutch adjustment and, if not properly adjusted, adjust to specification. b. Synchronizers worn. Remove transmission and replace synchronizers. c. Pilot bearing seized. Remove transmission and replace pilot bearing. d. Shift linkage or bushing seized. Disassemble the shift linkage, replace worn or damaged bushings, lubricate and reinstall.

4. Transmission leaks fluid a. Check the fluid level for an overfilled condition. Adjust the fluid level to specification. b. Check for a restricted transmission vent or breather tube. Clear the blockage as necessary and check the fluid level. If necessary, top off with the recommended lubricant. c. Check for a porous casting, leaking seal or gasket. Replace defective parts and top off the fluid level with the recommended lubricant.

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c. Check the engine crankshaft axial play. If the crankshaft thrust bearings are worn or damaged, the crankshaft will move when pressing the clutch pedal. The engine must be disassembled to replace the crankshaft thrust bearings. 4. Clutch pedal extremely difficult to press a. Check the clutch pedal pivots and linkages for binding. Clean and lubricate linkages. b. On cable actuated clutch systems, check the cable routing and condition. Replace

kinked, frayed, damaged or corroded cables and check cable routing to avoid sharp bends. Check the engine ground strap for poor conductivity. If the ground strap is marginal, the engine could try to ground itself via the clutch cable, causing premature failure. c. On mechanical linkage clutches, check the linkage for binding or misalignment. Lubricate pivots or linkages and repair as necessary. d. Check the release bearing guide tube and release fork for a lack of lubrication. Install a smooth coating of high temperature grease to allow smooth movement of the release bearing over the guide tube.

5. Clutch pedal remains down when pressed a. On mechanical linkage or cable actuated clutches, check for a loose or disconnected link. b. On hydraulically actuated clutches, check the fluid level and check for a hydraulic leak at the clutch slave or master cylinder, or hydraulic line. Replace failed parts and bleed clutch hydraulic system. If no leakage is noted, the clutch master cylinder may have failed internally. Replace the clutch master cylinder and bleed the clutch hydraulic system. 6. Clutch chatters when engaging a. Check the engine flywheel for warpage or surface variations and replace Or repair as necessary. b. Check for a warped clutch disc or damaged clutch damper hub. Remove the clutch disc and replace.

c. Check for a loose or damaged clutch pressure plate and replace defective components. NOTE: The clutch is actuated either by a mechanical linkage, cable or a clutch hydraulic system. The mechanical linkage and cable systems may require the clutch pedal free-play to be adjusted as the clutch disc wears. A hydraulic clutch system automatically adjusts as the clutch wears and, with the exception of the clutch pedal height, no adjustment is possible.

2-D. Differential and Final Drive

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1. Differential makes a low pitched rumbling noise

a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and amount of lubricant. d b. Check the differential bearings for wear or damage. Remove the bearings, inspect the drive and driven gears for wear or damage, and replace components as necessary.

1. Clutch slips on hills or during sudden acceleration a. Check for insufficient clutch pedal free-play. Adjust clutch linkage or cable to allow about 1 inch (25mm) of pedal free-play. b. Clutch disc worn or severely damaged. Remove orig or transmission and replace clutch disc. c. Clutch pressure plate is weak. Remove engine or transmission and replace the clutch pressure plate and clutch disc.

2. Differential makes a howling noise a. Check fluid level type and amount. Replace the fluid with the recommended type and amount of lubricant.

d. Clutch pressure plate and/or flywheel incorrectly machined. If the clutch system has been recently replaced and rebuilt, or refurbished parts have been used, it is possible that the machined surfaces decreased the clutch clamping force. Replace defective parts with new replacement parts.

All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles

2.

Clutch will not disengage, difficult to shift a, Check the clutch release mechanism. Check for stretched cables, worn linkages or failed clutch hydraulics and replace defective parts. On hydraulically operated clutch ___ felease mechanisms, check for air in the hydraulic system and bleed as necessary. D: Check for a broken, cracked or fatigued clutch release arm or release arm pivot. - Replace defective parts and properly lubricate upon assembly. 6 Check for a damaged clutch hub damper or damper spring. The broken parts tend to become lodged between the clutch disc and the pressure plate. Disassemble

clutch system and replace failed parts.

cd,Check for a seized clutch pilot bearing. Disassemble the clutch assembly and ) ty ys lace the defective parts. . Check for a defective clutch disc. Check for warpage or ining thicknesses larger

than riginal—

b. Check the differential drive and driven gears for wear or —_ and replace components as necessary.

2-E. Transfer Assembly an

1. Leaks fluid from seals or vent after being driven

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a. Fluid level overfilled. Check and adjust transfer case fluid level.

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b. Check for a restricted breather or breather tube, clear and check td eve and top off as needed. Wii c. Check seal condition and replace worn, damaged, or deft sel

fluid level and top off as necessary.

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2. Makes excessive noise while driving a. Check the fluid for the correct type of lubricant. Drain and refi mended type and amount of lubricant. b. Check the fluid level. Top off the fluid using the recommng de lubricant. c. Ifthe fluid level and type of lubricant meet specifcati 0 damage. Remove assembly and disassemble to inspect defective components. 3. Jumps out ofgear

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TROUBLESHOOTING 2-F. Driveshaft Rear Wheel, All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles 1. Clunking noise from center of vehicle shifting from forward to reverse a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint. 2. Excessive vibration from center of vehicle when accelerating a. Worn universal joint. Remove driveshaft and replace universal joint. b. Driveshaft misaligned. Check for collapsed or damaged engine and transmission

mounts, and replace as necessary. c. Driveshaft bent or out of balance. Replace damaged components and reinstall. d. Driveshaft out of balance. Remove the driveshaft and have it balanced by a competent professional, or replace the driveshaft assembly.

NOTE: Most driveshafts are linked together by universal joints; however, some manufacturers use Constant Velocity (CV) joints or rubber flex couplers.

All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles 1. Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully remove the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs. b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if

defective. 2. Front or rear wheel vibrates with increased speed a. Check for a bent rim and replace, if damaged. b. Check the tires for balance or internal damage and replace if defective. c. Check for a loose, worn or damaged wheel bearing and replace if defective. d. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defective. Front Wheel Drive Vehicles

3. Front wheel makes a clicking noise a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully remove the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs.

11-11

b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn Constant Velocity (CV) joint and replace if defective. 4. Rear wheel makes a clicking noise na Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully remove the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire

repairs. Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles 5. Front or rear wheel makes a clicking noise

a. Check for debris such as a pebble, nail or glass in the tire or tire tread. Carefully remove the debris. Small rocks and pebbles rarely cause a puncture; however, a sharp object should be removed carefully at a facility capable of performing tire repairs. 6. Rear wheel shudders or vibrates a. Check for a bent rear wheel or axle assembly and replace defective components. b. Check for a loose, damaged or worn rear wheel bearing and replace as necessary.

2-H. Other Drive Train Conditions 1. Burning odor from center of vehicle when accelerating a. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round wear and caliper-to-piston clearance. For additional information on brake related odors, refer to section 3-A, condition number 9. ao On vehicles with a manual transmission, check for a slipping clutch. For possible Causes and additional information, refer to section 2-C, condition number 1. Fe On vehicles with an automatic transmission, check the fluid level and condition. Top off or change the fluid and filter using the recommended replacement parts,

lubricant type and amount. If the odor persists, transmission removal and disassembly will be necessary. 2. Engine accelerates, but vehicle does not gain speed ae On vehicles with a manual transmission, check for a slipping or damaged clutch. For possible causes and additional information refer tosection 2-C, condition number 1. b. On vehicles with an automatic transmission, check the fluid level and condition. Top off or change the fluid and filter using the recommended replacement parts, lubricant type and amount. If the slipping continues, transmission removal and disassembly will be necessary.

3. BRAKE SYSTEM 3-A. Brake System Troubleshooting 1. Brake pedal pulsates or shimmies when pressed a. Check wheel lug nut torque and tighten evenly to specification. b. Check the brake rotor for trueness and thickness variations. Replace the rotor if it is too thin, warped, or if the thickness varies beyond specification. Some rotors can be machined; consult the manufacturer's specifications and recommendations before using a machined brake rotor. c. Check the brake caliper or caliper bracket mounting bolt torque and inspect for looseness. Torque the mounting bolts and inspect for wear or any looseness, including worn mounting brackets, bushings and sliding pins. d. Check the wheel bearing for looseness. If the bearing is loose, adjust if possible, _ otherwise replace the bearing. 2 Brakes make a squealing noise

a. Check the brake rotor for the presence of a ridge on the outer edge; if present, remove the ridge or replace the brake rotor and brake pads. b. Check for debris in the brake lining material, clean and reinstall. c. Check the brake linings for wear and replace the brake linings if wear is approach ing the lining wear limit. d. Check the brake linings for glazing. Inspect the brake drum or rotor surface and replace, along with the brake linings, ifthe surface is not smooth or even. e. Check thebrake pad or shoe mounting areas for a lack of lubricant or the presranchanon:rust.Clean and lubricate with a recommended high temperature’

4. Vehicle pulls to one side during braking a. Check for air in the brake hydraulic system. Inspect the brake hydraulic seals, fluid lines and related components for fluid leaks. Remove the air from the brake system by bleeding the brakes. Be sure to use fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturer's recommended standards. b. Check for an internally restricted flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose

and flush the brake system.

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c. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round

wear and caliper-to-piston clearance. Overhaul or replace failed parts and flush the brake system. d. Check the vehicle's alignment and inspect for suspension wear. Replace worn bushings, ball joints and set alignment to the manufacturer's specifications. e. If the brake system uses drum brakes front or rear, check the brake adjustment. Inspect for seized adjusters and clean or replace, then properly adjust.

5. Brake pedal feels spongy or has excessive travel a. Check the brake fluid level and condition. If the fluid is contaminated or has not K been flushed every two years, clean the master cylinder reservoir, and bleed and = Nh flush the brakes using fresh brake fluidthat meets the manufacturer's recoma mended standards. An i d

b. Check for a weak or damaged flexible tithehydraulic hose. Replace the hoseand‘i ek flush the brake system. c. If the brake system uses drum brakes front or rear, check the brake aise i Inspect for seized ce and clean or replace, then properly aK ’

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11-12

TROUBLESHOOTING

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7. Vehicle has excessive front end dive or locks rear brakes too easily

BRAKE PERFORMANCE TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS

a. Check for worn, failed or seized brake proportioning valve and replace the valve.

Brake vibrations or pulsation can often be diagnosed on a safe and careful test drive. A brake vibration which is felt through the brake pedal while braking, but not felt in the steering wheel, is most likely caused by brake surface variations in the rear brakes. If both the brake pedal and steering wheel vibrate during braking, a surface variation in the front brakes, or both front and rear brakes, is very likely. A brake pedal that pumps up with repeated use can be caused by air in the brake hydraulic system or, if the vehicle is equipped with rear drum brakes, the brake adjusters may be seized or out of adjustment. A quick test for brake adjustment on vehicles with rear drum brakes is to pump the brake pedal several times with the vehicle's engine not running and the parking brake released. Pump the brake pedal several times and continue to apply pressure to the brake pedal. With pressure being applied to the brake pedal, engage the parking brake. Release the brake pedal and quickly press the brake pedal again. If the brake pedal pumped up, the rear brakes are

b. Check for a seized, disconnected or missing spring or linkage for the brake proportioning valve. Replace missing parts or repair as necessary.

8. Brake pedal goes to floor when pressed and will not pump up a. Check the brake hydraulic fluid level and inspect the fluid lines and seals for leakage. Repair or replace leaking components, then bleed and flush the brake system using fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturer's recommended standards. b. Check the brake fluid level. Inspect the brake fluid level and brake hydraulic seals. If the fluid level is ok, and the brake hydraulic system is free of hydraulic leaks, replace the brake master cylinder, then bleed and flush the brake system using fresh brake fluid that meets the manufacturer's recommended standards.

9. Brakes produce a burning odor a. Check for a seizing brake hydraulic component such as a brake caliper. Check the caliper piston for surface damage such as rust, and measure for out-of-round wear and caliper-to-piston clearance. Overhaul or replace failed parts and flush the brake system. b. Check for an internally restricted flexible brake hydraulic hose. Replace the hose

and flush the brake system. c. Check the parking brake release mechanism, seized linkage or cable, and repair as necessary,

in need of adjustment. Do not compensate for the rear brake adjustment by adjusting the parking brake, this will cause premature brake lining wear. To test a vacuum brake booster, pump the brake pedal several times with the vehicle's engine off. Apply pressure to the brake pedal and then start the engine. The brake pedal should move downward about one inch (25mm).

4. WHEELS, TIRES, STEERING AND SUSPENSION 4-A. Wheels and Wheel Bearings 1. Front wheel or wheel bearing loose

All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Torque lug nuts and axle nuts to specification and recheck for looseness. b. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.

Front Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Torque lug nuts and axle nuts to specification and recheck for looseness. b. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing. c. Wheel bearing out of adjustment. Adjust wheel bearing to specification; if still loose, replace.

Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Wheel bearing out of adjustment. Adjust wheel bearing to specification; if still loose, replace. b. Torque lug nuts to specification and recheck for looseness.

c. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing. 2. Rear wheel or wheel bearing loose

All Wheel and Four Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Torque lug nuts and axle nuts to specification and recheck for looseness. b. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.

Front Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Wheel bearing out of adjustment. Adjust wheel bearing to specification; if still loose, replace. b. Torque lug nuts to specification and recheck for looseness.

c. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.

Rear Wheel Drive Vehicles a. Torque lug nuts to specification and recheck for looseness. c. Wheel bearing worn or damaged. Replace wheel bearing.

1. Tires worn on inside tread a. Check alignment for a toed-out condition. Check and set tire pressures and properly adjust the toe. b. Check for worn, damaged or defective suspension components. Replace defective parts and adjust the alignment.

2. Tires worn on outside tread . a. Check alignment for a toed-in condition. Check and set tire pressures and properly adjust the toe. — b. Check for worn, damaged or defective suspension components. Replace defective

ager fe and adjust the os

worn unevenly heckthe tirepressure and tire balance. Replace worn or defective tires and check

b. Check for worn shock absorbers. Replaced failed components, worn or defective tires and check the alignment; adjust if necessary. c. Check the alignment settings. Check and set tire pressures and properly adjust the alignment to specification. d. Check for worn, damaged or defective suspension components. Replace defective parts and adjust the alignment to specification.

4-C. Steering 1. Excessive play in steering wheel a. Check the steering gear free-play adjustment and properly adjust to remove excessive play. b. Check the steering linkage for worn, damaged or defective parts. Replace failed components and perform a front end alignment. c. Check for a worn, damaged, or defective steering box, replace the steering gear and check the front end alignment. 2. Steering wheel shakes at cruising speeds a. Check for a bent front wheel. Replace a damaged wheel and check the tire for possible internal damage. b. Check for an unevenly worn front tire. Replace the tire, adjust tire pressure and balance. c. Check the front tires for hidden internal damage. Tires which have encountered large pot holes or suffered other hard blows may have sustained internal damage and should be replaced immediately. d. Check the front tires for an out-of-balance condition. Remove, spin balance and reinstall. Torque all the wheel bolts or lug nuts to the recommended specification. e. Check for a loose wheel bearing. If possible, adjust the bearing, or replace the bearing if it is a non-adjustable bearing.

_ 8. Steering wheel shakes when braking a. Refer to section 3-A, condition number 1.

4. Steering wheel becomes stiff when turned a. Check the steering wheel free-play adjustment and reset as needed. b. Check for a damaged steering gear assembly. Replace the steering gear and perform a front end alignment. c. Check for damaged or seized suspension components. Replace defective ae | nents and perform a front end alignment. ” w

4-D. Suspension

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1. Vehicle pulls to one side

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a. Tire pressure uneven. Adjust tire pressure to reconTefiaae b. Tires worn unevenly. Replace tires and check alignment settings. c. Alignment out of specification. Align front end and checkthr d. Check for a dragging brake and repair or replace as necessa

2. Vehicle is very bouncy over bumps a. Check for worn or leaking shock sry skor strut4 essary. j

b. Check forseized ASH fai

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