Haynes BMW 2-Valve Twins Service & Repair Manual '70 to '96 [0249] 1859602835, 9781859602836

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2-value Twi 7 0to’96

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Vil. WAUKEGAN PUBLIC LIBRARY

BMW 2-valve Twins service and Repair Manual by Jeremy Churchill Models covered

(249-280-1W8)

R45. 473cc. UK only 1978 to 1985

R50. R60. R65, R75.

498cc. 599cc. R65LS. 745cc.

UK 1970 to UK 1970 to 649cc. UK UK 1970 to

1973, US 1969 to 1978, US 1969 to 1978 to 1988, US 1977, US 1969 to

1973 1978 1979 to 1987 1977

R80, R80/7, R80G/S*, R80GS, R80ST, R80RT, R80R. 797cc. UK 1977 to 1994, US 1977 to 1987 R90/6, R9OS. 898cc. UK and US 1973 to 1976 R100, R100/7, R100CS, R100GS*, R100R, R100RS, R100RT, R100S, R100SP, R100SRS, R100ST, R100T, R100TR. 979cc. UK and US 1976 to 1984, 1987 to 1996 ‘Includes coverage of the Paris-Dakar versions Note: The 4-valve engine introduced in 1993 is not covered by this manual

© Haynes Publishing 1997

Printed by J H Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 283 5 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number 97-70321 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes S.A. 147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR BMW TWIN Introduction

«

® 4

ee

®

* sgt ae V8 hy

BMW - They did it their way

Page

004

Page

0e7

About this Manual

Page

0Oe7

Identification numbers

Page

02*8

Buying spare parts

Page

098

Safety First!

Page

0°10

Engine oil level check

Page

0Oe11

Drum brake check

Page

Oe11

Hydraulic brake fluid level check

Page

0912

Tyre checks

Page

0°13

Suspension, steering and final drive checks

Page

0°14

Legal and safety checks

Page

0014

Page

1e1

Page

19°3

Component locations

Page

1295

Maintenance schedule

Page

198

Maintenance procedures

Page

199

Acknowledgements

~., e ;

Daily (pre-ride) checks

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Specifications Recommended

lubricants and fluids

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine, transmission and associated systems Engine

Page

2e1

Clutch

Page

3e1

Gearbox

Page

4e1

Fuel and lubrication systems

Page

5e1

Ignition system

Page

621

Chassis components Frame and front suspension

Page

7e1

Final drive and rear suspension

Page

8e1

Wheels, brakes and tyres

Page

9Qe1

Electrical system

Page 10¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 10°15

REFERENCE Dimensions and Weights

Page

Tools and Workshop Tips

Page

REFe1 REFe3

Conversion Factors

Page

REFe21

Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants

Page

REFe22

MOT Test Checks

Page

REFe23

Storage °

Page

REFe27

Fault Finding

Page

REFe29

Fault Finding Equipment

Page

REFe38

Technical Terms Explained

Page

REFe42

Index

Page

REFe46

a

/

oe4 INtroduction

BMW- They aid ittheirw by Julian Ryder BMW - Bayerische Motoren Werke f you were looking for a theme tune for | BMW’s engineering philosophy you’d have to look no further than Francis Albert Sinatra’s best known ditty: ‘I did it my way.’ The Bayerische Motoren Werke, like their countrymen at Porsche, takes precious little notice of the way anyone else does it, point this out to a factory representative and you will get a reply starting: ‘We at BMW... ‘. The implication is clear.

It was

always

motorcycle,

the

like that. The first BMW R32,

was,

according

to

motoring sage L J K Setright: ‘the first really outstanding post-War design, argued from first principles and uncorrupted by established practice. It founded a new German school of design, it established a BMW tradition destined to survive unbroken from 1923 to the present day.’ That tradition was, of course, the boxer twin. The nickname ‘boxer’ for an opposed twin is thought to derive from the fact that the pistons travel horizontally towards and away from each other like the fists of boxers. Before this first complete motorcycle, BMW had built a horizontally-opposed fore-and-aft boxer engine for the Victoria company of Nuremburg. It was a close copy of the British

The R6O/6 Douglas

motor which the company’s

engineer

company’s what some

Max

Friz

admired,

a

fact

chief the

official history confirms despite current devotees of the marque

will claim. In fact BMW didn’t really want to make motorcycles at all, originally it was an aero-engine company - a fact celebrated in the blue-and-white tank badge that is symbolic of a propeller. But in Germany after the Treaty of Versailles such potentially warlike work was forbidden to domestic

companies and BMW

had to diversify, albeit

reluctantly. Friz was known to have a very low opinion of motorcycles and chose the Douglas to copy simply because he saw it as fundamentally a good solution to the engineering problem of powering a twowheeler. In the R32 the engine was arranged

with the crankshaft in-line with the axis of the bike and the cylinders sticking out into the cooling airflow, giving a very low centre-ofgravity and perfect vibration-free primary balance. It wasn’t just the motor’s layout that departed from normal practice, the clutch was a single-plate type as used in cars, final drive was by shaft and the rear wheel could be removed quickly. The frame and suspension were equally sophisticated, but the bike was quite heavy. Most of that description could be equally well applied to any of the boxer-

engined bikes BMW made in the next 70-plus years. Development within the surprisingly flexible The R65

confines of the boxer concept was

quick.

Introduction

oes

The second BMW, the R37 of 1925, retained the 68 x 68 mm

had overhead

Douglas bore and stroke but

valves

in place of the side

valves. In 1928 two major milestones were

passed. First, BMW acquired the car manufacturer Dixi and started manufacturing a left-hand-drive version of the Austin 7 under license. Secondly, the larger engined R62 and R63 appeared, the latter being an OHV sportster that would be the basis of BMW’s sporting and _ recordbreaking exploits before the Second World War. The 1930s was the era of speed records on land, on sea and in the air, and the name of Ernst Henne is in the record books no fewer than ten times: eight for two-wheeled

exploits, twice for wheel-on-a-stick ‘sidecar’ world records. At first he was on the R63 with supercharging, but in 1936 he switched to the 500 cc R5, high-pushrod design reminiscent of the latest generation of BMW twins. Chain-driven camshafts operated short pushrods which opened valves with hairpin - not coil - springs. A pure racing version of this motor also appeared, this time with shaft and bevel-gear driven overhead camshafts, but with short rockers operating the valves so the engine can’t be called a true DOHC design. Again with the aid of a blower, this was the motor that powered the GP 500s of the late ‘30s to many wins including the 1939 Senior TT. After the War,

The R75/5 before the situation was rescued by one of the truly classic boxers. Their first post-War twin had been the R51/2, and naturally it was very

close to simplified

the pre-War model although to a _ single-camshaft layout.

Nevertheless, it was still a relatively advanced

didn’t restart production until 1948, and then

OHV design not a sidevalve sidecar tug which enabled a face-lift for the 1955 models to do the marketing trick. The 1955 models got a swinging arm - at both ends. The old plunger rear suspension was replaced by.a swinging arm while leading-link Earles forks adorned the front.

only with a lightweight single. There was a false start in 1950 and a slump in sales in 1953 that endangered the whole company,

The European market found these new bikes far too expensive compared to British twins

this layout would re-emerge in the immortal Rennsport. From 1939 to 1945 BMW were fully occupied making military machinery, notably the R75 sidecar for the army. The factory

Thus were born the R50, the R60 and the R69.

but America saved the day, buying most of the company’s output. The car side of the company also found a product the market wanted, a small sports-car powered by a modified

bike engine, thus BMW’s

last crisis

was averted In 1960 the Earles fork models were updated and the R69S was launched with more power, closer transmission ratios and those funny little indicators on the ends of the handlebars. Very little changed during the ‘60s, apart from US export models getting telescopic forks, but in 1970 everything changed...

The move to Spandau and a new line of Boxers MW’s bike side had outgrown its site in Munich at the company’s _ headquarters, so, taking advantage of government subsidies for enterprises that located to what was then West Berlin, surrounded by the still Communist DDR, BMW built a new _ motorcycle assembly plant at Spandau in Berlin. It opened in 1969, producing a completely new range of boxers, the 5-series, which begat the 6-series, which begat the 7-series. In 1976, at the same time as the launch of the 7-series the first RS boxer appeared. It’s hard to believe now, but it was the only fully faired motorcycle, and it set the pattern for all BMWs,

ee The R80ST

not just boxers,

to come.

The

RS

suffix came to mean a wonderfully efficient fairing that didn’t spoil a sporty riding position. More sedate types could buy the RT version with a massive but no less efficient fairing that protected a more upright rider. Both bikes could carry luggage in a civilised

og INtroduction

The R100RS

The R100S

fashion, too, thanks to purpose-built Krauser

panniers. Both the RT and RS were uncommonly civilised motorcycles for their time. When the boxer got its next major makeover in late 1980 BMW did something no-one thought possible, they made a boxer trail bike, the R80G/S.

This wasn’t

without

precedent as various supermen had wrestled 750 cc boxers to honours in the ISDT and in ‘81 Hubert Auriol won the Paris-Dakar on a factory boxer. Some heretics even dared to suggest the roadgoing G/S was the best boxer ever.

The K-series y the end of the ‘70s the boxer was - looking more and more dated alongside the opposition, and when the motorcycle division's management was shaken up at the beginning of 1979 the team working on the boxer replacement was doubled in size. The first new bike wasn’t launched until late ‘83, but when it was it was

clear that BMW had got as far away from the boxer concept as possible. The powerplant was an in-line water-cooled DOHC four just like all the Japanese

——

Sse

Biaw

\igy/

opposition, but typically BMW did it their way by aligning the motor so its crank was parallel to the axis of the bike and lying the motor on it side. In line with their normal practice, there was

a car-type

clutch,

shaft

drive

and

a

single-sided swinging arm. It was totally novel yet oddly familiar. And when RT and RS version were introduced to supplement the basic naked bike, the new K-series ‘flying bricks’ felt even more familiar. It was clear that BMW wanted the new four,

and the three-cylinder 750 that followed it, to be the mainstay of the company’s production - but in a further analogy with Porsche the customers simply wouldn’t let go of the old boxer. Just as Porsche were forced to keep the 911 in production so BMW had to keep the old air-cooled boxer going by pressure from their customers. It kept going until 1995, during which time the K-bikes had debuted four-valve heads and ABS. And when the

latest generation of BMWs appeared in 1993 what were they? Boxers. Granted they were

four-valve,

water-cooled equipped with telescopic fork ends, but they still boxers. And

and nonfront were that

high camshaft, short pushrod layout looked remarkably similar to

something

that

gone before...

The R100GS

had

Introduction

o-7

The 1970-on 2-valve Twins T he first recognisably modern boxer BMWs appeared in 1970, replacing the Earles-forked designs that originated in the mid-’50s. The 5-series consisted of the 500 cc R50/5, the 600 cc R60/5 and the 750 cc R75/5. They remained basically unchanged until 1974 when the 6-series appeared in the

showrooms. Externally the changes seemed minimal, a matter of updating the styling but the swinging arm was lengthened to help stability and, more importantly, the gearbox now housed five ratios, not four. Meantime the competition had been busy and BMW felt it necessary to produce an overtly sporting big-bore boxer. The result was the sublime R90S and its softer, more touring orientated stable-mate the R90/6. The R90S’s main innovation, apart from its looks,

smoked paintwork and very stylish half-fairing was the twin disc front brakes to emphasis its sporting nature. The 500 model was dropped and the other /6 models got a single disc. Again, the /6 models remained basically unchanged for three years until in late ‘76 the 7-series was unveiled. Again the changes were to the top of the range models. The R90/6 and R90S were bored out to produce the

R100/7

and

R100S,

but

much

more

significantly the first RS arrived, the first fully faired motorcycle offered for sale to the public and with the added attraction of cast wheels. Equally significantly, the first 800 cc boxer was added to the range in the shape of the R80/7. Many enthusiasts think the series-7 bikes are the epitome of the boxer concept, and indeed they are now approaching the realms of the classic bike. Oddities like the R45 and R65 appeared

during the 7-series’ life, the first as an entry level bike for German

licensing laws, the later

as a genuine lightweight alternative. The most significant modifications to the boxer came in 1980 when a host of modifications including lightning the

The R100R bugbear of the boxer’s clunky gearchange were put into effect. This tends to be forgotten because it also marked the first appearance of the G/S, the nominally on/off-road boxer. With

its high-level exhaust and_ single-sided swinging arm it set the pattern for all future boxers. Its wild purple and white colour scheme gave a hint of things to come, too. The G/S’s layout was copied first in the unfaired R80ST and the touring RT of 1982 while the G/S went on to grow more and more like the Paris-Dakar bikes it was supposedly based on, growing to 1000 cc with the R100GS of 1986. The R100GS didn’t replace the 800 cc version, which stayed in the range

alongside its big brother. In 1987 the boxers got an improvement as major as the 1980 revamp when the Paralever rear suspension

clutch/flywheel assembly to try and lay the old

was fitted. This parallelogram linkage went a

Acknowledgements

The introduction,

ur thanks are due to CW Motorcycles ©:

Dorchester,

Mr. J. Spicer,

Mr. C.

Leighton-Thomas and Emblem Sports Cars of Pimperne,

Dorset, who

loaned

“BMW

- They did it their

way” was written by Julian Ryder.

the

machines on which this manual was based. We are also grateful to Contact Developments of Reading, who allowed us to reproduce Dell’orto carburettor illustrations. The Avon Rubber Company supplied information on tyre care and fitting, and NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ltd provided information on plug maintenance and electrode conditions. Thanks are also due to Kel Edge for supplying transparencies, and to Andrew Dee

who carried out the front cover photography.

About this Manual he aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your motorcycle. It can do so in several ways. It can help

long way to eliminating all earlier boxers’ tendency to nose dive under braking While the GSs represented the present and future, BMW successfully looked to the past as well. The first ‘retro boxer’, the R100R also

appeared in 1986 in the shape of the R100R, the final version with chromed clocks and other styling cues harking back to the /7 and beyond and dubbed the Mystic appeared in late 1993. The Mystic looks essentially the same bike as those /5 models of a quarter of a century earlier. That statistic alone tells you how right BMW have go the boxer over the years, and they’ve done it by original thought almost totally ignoring what other manufacturers were doing. If there was ever a motorcycle designed from first principles, it’s the BMW boxer.

pick it up. More importantly, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the shop must pass on to you to cover its labour and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment that you feel after doing the job yourself. References to the left or right side of the motorcycle assume you are sitting on the

you decide what work must be done, even if

seat, facing forward.

you choose to have it done by a dealer; it provides information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing; and it offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

We hope you use the manual to tackle the

work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing it yourself may be quicker than arranging an appointment to get the motorcycle into a dealer and making the trips to leave it and

og Identification numbers Model identification Although the machines described in this Manual have remained basically unchanged, most of their components have been modified in various degrees’ throughout _ their production life. The need to keep pace with the competition has resulted in largercapacity engines with greatly increased power outputs and in the appearance of features such as five-speed gearboxes, disc brakes, cast alloy wheels and a much greater diversity of model types. Most of these changes can be seen by reference to the Specifications Section and/or introduction to each Chapter. Note however that as BMW have made it a policy to offer a wide range of equipment as optional extras, with the components fitted as standard to the more expensive models being available for the basic versions, and to keep all components interchangeable where

possible, many machines may be found to differ considerably from the specifications given; these refer at all times to the machines

in their standard, original, form with likely variations noted where possible. For example, it is quite possible for a basic model of one year to have twin front discs and alloy wheels when it is listed as being equipped with a single disc and wire-spoked wheels, or for it to be fitted with modified components which are listed for later models. A complete list of the models covered is given

below.

For

reference,

to assist

the

owner in identifying his or her machine the approximate dates of import are also given; note that these may not necessarily coincide with the actual date of sale. Machines are identified throughout this manual by their BMW production year or model year - see Buying spare parts for details. Note: Unless

specifically mentioned in the text, the later 1000 cc model information for the R100/7 model.

will be as shown

Buying spare parts When ordering replacement parts, it is essential to identify exactly the machine for which the parts are required. While in some cases it is sufficient to identify the machine by its title eg ‘R75/7’, the many modifications to most components mean that it is usually essential to identify the machine by its BMW production or model year eg ‘1977 R75/7’. The BMW _ production year starts in September of the previous calendar year, after the annual holiday, and continues until the following August. Therefore a 1977 R75/7 was produced at some time between September

1976

and August

1977;

it may

have been sold (to its first owner) at any time from September 1976 onwards. To avoid any

Model

Capacity

UK

US

further confusion, models are referred to at al}

R45 R50/5 R60/5 R60/6 R60/7 R65 R65LS R75/5 R75/6 R75/7 R80/7 R80G/S R80G/S P-D R80GS R80ST R80RT

473 cc 498 cc S99'ce 599) ce 599 cc 649 cc 649 cc 745 cc 745 cc 745 cc 797 cc TAIT (ofe3 797 cc 797 cc TICS 197. CG

Aug ‘78 to Oct ‘85 May ‘70 to Sept ‘73 April ‘70 to Feb ‘74 Feb ‘74 to June ‘76 Sept ‘76 to Sept ‘78 Aug ‘78 to Dec ‘88 Dec ‘81 to Oct ‘85 April ‘70 to Feb ‘74 Feb ‘74 to June ‘76 Sept ‘76 to Sept ‘77 Oct ‘77 to Sept ‘80 Oct ‘80 to Jan ‘88 Sept ‘86 to Jun ‘87 Jan ‘88 to Feb ‘94 Sept ‘82 to ‘84 Aug ‘82 to Dec ‘94

Not imported Sept ‘69 to Aug ‘73 Sept ‘69 to Aug ‘73 Sept ‘73 to Aug ‘76 Sept ‘76 to Dec ‘78 Jan ‘79 to ‘87 Jan ‘82 to Dec ‘84 Sept ‘69 to Aug ‘73 Sept ‘73 to Aug ‘76 Sept ‘76 to Aug ‘77 Sept ‘77 to ‘80 Jan ‘81 to ‘86 Not imported Not imported Jan ‘83 to Dec ‘84 Jan ‘83 to ‘87

times in this Manual by their BMW production or model year; to identify your

R80 R80R R90/6

797 cc 797 cc 898 cc

Jan ‘85 to ‘87 Not imported Sept ‘73 to Aug ‘76

R90S R100/7 R100T

898 cc 979 cc 979 cc

Dec ‘84 to Feb ‘94 Apr ‘94 to Dec ‘94 Dec ‘73 to June ‘76 Dec ‘73 to June ‘76 Sept ‘76 to Feb ‘79 Feb ‘79 to Sept ‘80

R100

979 cc

Oct ‘80 to June ‘84

R100S R100CS

979 ce 979 cc

Sept ‘76 to Sept ‘80 Oct ‘80 to June ‘84

R100RS

979'ce

Sept ‘76 to June ‘84

R100RS R100RT R100RT R100RT Classic R100GS R100GS P-D R100GS P-D Classic R100R R100R Mystic R100R Classic

979\cc 979 cc 979 cc 979 cc 979 cc 979 cc 979 cc 979 cc 979 cc 979 cc

June ‘87 to May ‘93 Feb ‘79 to June ‘84 Sept ‘87 to Feb ‘94 Apr ‘95 to Sept ‘96 Sept ‘87 to Feb ‘94 Apr ‘93 to Feb ‘94 Apr ‘95 to Sept ‘96 Mar’ 92 to Aug ‘94 Apr ‘94 to Sept ‘96 Apr ‘95 to Sept ‘96

Sept ‘73 to Aug ‘76 Sept ‘76 to Dec ‘78 Jan ‘79 to Dec ‘80 includes ‘80 ST version Jan ‘81 to ‘84 - includes TR (Touring) and SP (Sport) ‘82, ‘83 versions

Sept ‘76 to Dec ‘80 Jan ‘81 to Dec ‘81. Jan ‘84 to late ‘84

Sept ‘76 to ‘84 - includes SRS version of ‘78 = Oct ‘87 to ‘93 Jan ‘79 to ‘84 Oct ‘87 to ‘95 Not imported Oct ‘87 to ‘95 “90 to ‘95 Not imported ‘92 to ‘94 1995 Not imported

own machine, record its full engine and frame

numbers and take them to any BMW dealer who should have the necessary information to identify it exactly. Finally, in some cases modifications can be identified only by reference to the machine’s engine or frame number; these should be noted and taken with you whenever replacement parts are required.

To be absolutely certain of receiving the correct part, not only is it essential to have the

machine’s

identifying title and engine and

frame numbers, but it is also useful to take the

old part for comparison (where possible). Note that where a modified component has superseded the original, a careful check must be made that there are no related parts which have also been modified and must be used to enable the replacement to be correctly refitted; where such a situation is found, purchase all the necessary parts and fit them. even if this means replacing apparently unworn items. Always purchase replacement parts from an authorised BMW dealer who will either have the parts in stock or can order them quickly from the importer, and always use

genuine parts to ensure the machine’s performance and reliability. Pattern parts are not widely available for BMWs, being generally restricted to items such as disc brake pads, oil and air filters and exhaust system components. Unless these are of

recognised quality brands which will perform as well as or better than the original, they should be avoided.

Expendable items such as lubricants, spark plugs, some electrical components, bearings, bulbs and tyres can usually be obtained at lower prices from accessory shops, motor factors or from specialists advertising in the national motorcycle press.

Identification numbers ov9

yo Location of frame number - all models up to 1982

Bayerische | yotorenwerke. a, j ;

Munche,

°C

Type

raga mT! e i} S$. FEW. 1.Ges ew.Miia Made in Germ,

Manufacturer’s data plate also carries frame number - early version...

... and later version

o-10 Oafety first! Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment’s lack of attention can

result in an accident,

as can

failure to

observe simple precautions. There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you Carry out on your bike.

Asbestos @

Certain

friction,

insulating,

sealing

and

other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. Extreme care must

- contain be taken

asbestos. to avoid

inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous

to health. If in doubt, assume

that they do contain asbestos.

Fire @ Remember at all times that petrol is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent.

Remember... X Don’t start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral. ¥ Don’t suddenly remove the pressure cap from a hot cooling system - cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. X Don’t attempt to drain oil until you are

sure it has cooled scalding you.

sufficiently to avoid

X Don’t grasp any part of the engine or

exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you. X Don’t allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine’s paintwork or plastic components.

X Don’t siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. X Don’t inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos heading). X Don’t allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. X Don’t use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injury. X Don’t lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

@ Always disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. @ It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Fumes @® Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as _ trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. @ When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapours. @ Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

The battery @ Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle’s battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. ¥ Don’t unverified X Don’t around an

rush to finish a job or take short cuts. allow children or animals in or unattended vehicle. X Don’t inflate a tyre above the recommended pressure. Apart from overstressing the carcass, in extreme cases the tyre may blow off forcibly. V Do ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal. V Do take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a spanner, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it. Y Do wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc. V Do use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs - it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren’t left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. V Do keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc.

and long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

@

Always

disconnect

the battery ground

(earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted). @ If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or

the battery may burst. @ Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, evenwhen diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid.

Electricity @ When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc., always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. @ A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical system,

such as the spark plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary (HT) voltage is much higher and could prove fatal. V Do remove rings, wristwatch etc., before

working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system. V Do keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. V Do exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently. V Do ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. V Do get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. V Do carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly

assembled and tightened afterwards. V Do remember that your vehicle’s safety

affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice. @ If in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Daily (pre-ride) checks

0-11

1 Engine oil level check Before you start: V Place the motorcycle on its centre stand on level ground. v The engine must have been stopped for some time, at least five minutes, to allow the oil level to stabilise.

VY A small funnel is useful when topping up, especially if it can be carried on the machine.

is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see

Fault Finding).

Bike care:

@ Never allow the engine to run with the level

@ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. If there

below the ‘Min’ line, and do not overfill it so that the level is above the ‘Max’ line.

The correct oil

1

SAE

USORR

80

SAE 20W-50 SAE 15W-50 SAE 15W-40 10W-40

@ Motorcycle engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your bike is used. @ Always top up with a good quality oil of the specified type and viscosity and do not overfill the engine. @ To fill the engine from ‘Min’ to ‘Max’ marks on the dipstick requires approximately 1.0 litre (1.76 Imp pint/1.06 US qt) on all models up to 1980, 0.85 litre (1.5 Imp pint/0.9 US qt) on all models from 1981 on. Good quality HD oil suitable for spark ignition engines. API classification SF, SG or SH Oil viscosity

Refer to accompanying viscosity chart and select a viscosity to suit the prevailing outside temperatures. BMW recommend a medium range

multigrade, eg 10W/30 is preferable to a wide range multigrade such as 10W/50.

..

1

Unscrew the filler plug/dipstick from its boss

in the crankcase

left-hand

side,

wipe it clean and refit it so that the plug

Withdraw the dipstick and note the level of oil on it, which should be between the ‘Max’ and ‘Min’ lines.

rests on the crankcase; do not screw it in.

2 Drum brake check Bike care: @ Check that the brake works effectively and without binding.

@ Ensure that the rod linkages and the cables, are lubricated and properly adjusted - see Chapter 1 for details.

;

‘

= LR

.

Top up with the specified oil. Renew the

sealing washer if it is damaged or flattened and refit the filler plug/dipstick, tightening it securely.

o-12 Daily (pre-ride) checks 3 Hydraulic brake fluid level check

AN Before

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it and cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

you

start:

V Position the motorcycle on its centre stand. Remove the right-hand side panel for access to the rear brake fluid reservoir. V Make sure you have the correct hydraulic

fluid - DOT 4 (ATE SL) is recommended. Use only good quality brake fluid of the recommended type and ensure that it comes from a freshly opened sealed container; brake

fluid

is hygroscopic,

absorbs

&

1 On /6 and /7 models

up to 1980

a

warning light on the dash panel indicates low fluid. Remove the fuel tank to access

the front brake fluid reservoir...

2

means

that

it

iF

F

iain.

... unscrew the cap and float and top up

with the specified fluid. Do not fill above the MAX level line or fluid will be spilled when the cap and float are refitted. Take care to avoid spills (see Warning above).

4

fluid level through the reservoir body on

——

aa

ag

{

j

.

ie

;

cap,

then

lift

off

. ...and top up to the correct level with the specified fluid and install the diaphragm, cover and screws. Take care to avoid spills (see Warning above).

Cg

...if near or below the MIN line, unscrew

the reservoir diaphragm...

Bike care: @ The fluid in the master cylinder reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down. @ lf any fluid reservoir requires repeated topping-up this is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. @ Check for signs of fluid leakage from the hydraulic hoses and components - if found, rectify immediately. @ Check the operation of both brakes before taking the machine on the road; if there is evidence of air in the system (spongy feel to lever (front) or pedal (rear)), it must be bled as described in Chapter 9. Poor brake operation may also be due to incorrect freeplay in the brake operating mechanism - refer to Chapter 1 for details. @ Wrap a rag around the reservoir when topping up to ensure that any spillage does not come into contact with painted surfaces.

Res

... if near or below the MIN line, remove the reservoir cover screws, then lift off

the cover and diaphragm .

the handlebar. The fluid level should lie between the MAX and MIN level lines...

Remove the right-hand side panel to view the rear brake master cylinder. The fluid level should lie between the MAX and MIN level lines...

which

moisture from the air, therefore old

i On all other models, view the front brake

fluid may have become contaminated to such an extent that its boiling point has been lowered to an unsafe level.

the

8 . . . top up to the correct level with the specified fluid then install the diaphragm and cap. Take care to avoid spills (see Warning above).

Daily (pre-ride) checks. oe13 4 Tyre checks Tyre care: @ Check

the tyres carefully for cuts, tears,

embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively worn tyres is extremely hazardous,

as

traction

and

handling

are

directly affected. @ Check the condition of the tyre valve and ensure the dust cap is in place. @ Pick out any stones or nails which may have become embedded in the tyre tread. If

Check the tyre pressures when the tyres are cold and keep them properly inflated.

The correct pressures: @ The tyre pressures must be checked when cold, not immediately after riding. Note that

low tyre pressures may cause the tyre to slip on the rim or come off. High tyre pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling. @ Use an accurate pressure gauge.

left, they will eventually penetrate through the casing and cause a puncture. @ If tyre damage is apparent, or unexplained loss of pressure is experienced, seek the advice of a tyre fitting specialist without delay.

Tyre tread depth: @ At the time of writing UK tread depth must be at least the tread breadth all the way with no bald patches. Many

law requires that 1 mm over 3/4 of around the tyre, riders, however,

Measure tread depth at the centre of the tyre using a tread depth gauge.

@ Proper air pressure will increase tyre life and provide maximum stability and ride comfort. i @ The following pressures are recommended by BMW only for the tyres fitted as standard to their machines and should be checked by reference to the tyre pressure warning label on the machine in case different types of tyre were fitted at the factory. If the machine is

consider 2 mm (0.08 in) tread depth minimum to be a safer limit. BMW recommend minimum tread depths of 2.0 mm (0.08 in) for speeds below 80 mph (130 km/h), or 3 mm (0.12 in) for speeds above 80 mph (130 km/h), measured at the centre of the tread @® Many tyres now incorporate wear indicators in the tread. Identify the arrow, triangular pointer or TWI marking on the tyre sidewall to locate the indicator bar and replace the tyre if the tread has worn down to the bar.

3

Tyre tread wear indicator bars (arrows).

fitted subsequently with another make and/or type of tyre, the owner must check with the tyre manufacturer to find out if different pressures are necessary. In most cases the BMW importer will be able to help with advice on recommended tyres and pressures. @ Always ensure at all times that the pressures are suited to the load the machine is carrying and the speed at which it will be travelling.

Model/speed 1/05 16: Up to 87 mph (140 km/h) *Above 87 mph (140 km/h)

28 psi (1.9 Bar) 28 psi (1.9 Bar)

29 psi (2.0 Bar) 31 psi (2.1 Bar)

26 psi (1.8 Bar) 29 psi (2.0 Bar)

31 psi (2.1 Bar) 33 psi (2.3 Bar)

28 psi (1 9 Bar) 28 psi (1.9 Bar) 31 psi (2.1 Bar)

31 psi (2.1 Bar)

26 psi (1.8 Bar) 29 psi (2.0 Bar) 32 psi (2.2 Bar)

29 psi (2.0 Bar)

31 psi (2.1 Bar) 31 psi (2.1 Bar)

28 psi (1.9 Bar) 31 psi (2.1 Bar)

31 psi (2.1 Bar)

29 psi (2.0 Bar)

31 psi (2.1 Bar)

32 psi (2.2 Bar)

32 psi (2.2 Bar) 35 psi (2.4 Bar)

28 psi (1.9 Bar)

31 psi (2.1 Bar)

26 psi (1.8 Bar)

32 psi (2.2 Bar)

32 psi (2.2 Bar)

34 psi (2.4 Bar) 36 psi (2.5 Bar) 36 psi (2.5 Bar)

36 psi (2.5 Bar) 34 psi (2.4 Bar) 36 psi (2.5 Bar)

42 psi (2.9 Bar) 42 psi (2.9 Bar) 39 psi (2.7 Bar)

R45, R65 up to 1985, R65LS,

R80RT 1983-84, /7 up to 1984:

Up to 81 mph (130 km/h) 81 - 100 mph (130 - 160 km/h) Above 100 mph (160 km/h)

32 psi (2.2 Bar) 33 psi (2.3 Bar)

R80ST: Up to 81 mph (130 km/h)

Above 81 mph (130 km/h)

R80 and R80RT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT 1987 on R80GS, R100GS R80R, R100R

32 psi (2.2 Bar)

32 psi (2.2 Bar)

* Increase pressures by 3 psi (0.2 Bar) if travelling at maximum speed for long periods

o-14 Daily (pre-ride) checks 5 Suspension, steering and final drive checks Suspension and steering: ® Check that the steering moves smoothly from lock-to-lock. @ Check that the front and rear suspension operates smoothly without binding.

@ Except for machines with Nivomat rear suspension units, ensure that the spring preload adjusters are at the correct setting for the machine’s intended load. On models with

Final drive: @ Check that there is no sign of fluid leakage from the final driveshaft or bevel drive.

two rear suspension units, ensure at all times

that both are at the same setting.

6 Legal and safety checks Lighting and signalling:

Safety:

Fuel:

@ Take a minute to check that the headlamp, tail lamp, brake light, instrument lights and turn signals all work correctly. @ Check that the horn sounds when the switch is operated. @A working speedometer is a statutory requirement in the UK. @ Check that the headlamp beam is correctly aimed. If in doubt refer to local laws for guidance. For UK models, refer to MOT Test Checks in the Reference section of this Manual. @ On machines with RS or RT fairings, ensure that the fairing headlamp glass is completely clean and dry so that there can be no reduction of the headlamp’s light output. Detach the glass and clean it regularly with a suitable detergent to avoid this.

@ Check that the throttle grip rotates smoothly and snaps shut when released, in all steering positions. @ Check the clutch cable and lever and the gear lever to ensure that they are adjusted correctly, functioning correctly, and that they are securely fastened. If a bolt is going to

@ This may seem obvious, but check that you have enough fuel to complete your journey. If

work loose, or a cable snap, it is better that it

is discovered at this stage with the machine at a standstill,

rather

than

when

it is being

ridden. @ Check that sidestand return spring holds the stand securely up when retracted. The same applies to the centre stand. @ Using the specified torque settings (where given), check that all fasteners are tightened securely, particularly the wheel spindle nuts and clamp bolts, the rear wheel fasteners (Monolever models) and the stand, footrest,

suspension unit and rear subframe mounting bolts or nuts.

you notice signs of fuel leakage - rectify the cause immediately. @ Ensure you use the correct grade fuel - see Chapter 5 Specifications.

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Contents LAU SIPS? > QC» Si ere eee AMMO GIOIMONL —TONOWA id aieieciserecmayee ca cca e ee ewe aca tee BOE CO = GROSS o SSS 0 Oe ee ine ene ee ea EVSSES = G2 S869 Se Geno oo oa eee eee ee SieSCM MOMMUMM: crtana ie.oa-< ofS @ 6 x Pepe G shells (ee ela/s wis 8 6 0.8» SEOUL SE ACIOCK a acs na icSelS isos)vais: =,stale sud)wise sie wie wa alesis eles Stee ACMUSHMON tacm tiie afl. siivfals aciniya mare esi ween aad ini Ss Contact breaker cam felt and ATU pivots - greasing PMOMOISUDROMLOGO)) cnt. ce kh. a cscs Skee mies nee nene cee es Contact breaker gap (all models up to 1980) and ignition timing Sct EMS ETC IOC Ka onc cE a e's wlohe ets Bonde & scones S:Sedcwha Bis Contact breaker gap and ignition timing - check GN THOSE Su pey Cop R150) Pe a ae ee ee Controls and stand pivots - lubrication ....................46. Cylinder head nut tightness and valve clearance - check ........ DAWES NE Se) He ae fe ae eee PrVosiattemONNOVEl COCKS 2 ce 5 ss wns cnc et se es ee ee oe ME

8 Engine - clean the cylinder fins and sump cooling fins ........... 2 29) Engine—oilland) filter: changexesetinciasid ih elete staniels errors Sinai 1 4 (Front: forks = oil change .micia stein < ae cee eae 35 Om -UOLtAD TILem—CIGAN | ceca.s.c auceeunane ape deeeeteaeh ene tets a a eeeeeieer a 27 soumGearbox = oll: Change. . 5 oso se» aks Camis /Ocise sore ns one eae 19 tou Gearpox:- oll levelicheck :...3 2 S cis yam o ereie esses cin aio < oeReet A 5 9 Nuts, bolts and fasteners - tightness check ..............-.045 16 Rear: bevel drive: - oil: change *.ateecrrie «ether Sceniibes nies. actor 21 SOes Rear bevel'drive = oil:level Check. srsste ecto ce eee ecient Se if Sparic|pllgs = checks. 6c ssne ou ee eigons cow cee geo an eter 11 Sime ODark DIUGS = renewal. oss peru ue ts lansia oGieiie eo iste marae earn 818

0.6 - 0.7 mm (0.024 - 0.028 in) 0.9 mm (0.036 in) see Chapter 6

MEEMCICOINC ITOG PIA. ois Sioeina Rie ee ses acas cowie mee wees we RSMMC OG DIAY orteici is.on as,3 Sa hous, gn ai(obois,wileyile seine BR, Contact breaker point gap:

0.5 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 in) 0.5 - 1.0 mm (0.02 - 0.04 in)

amEEEEEAI (OL OL O tere cote cisinaure coalbecis a mete ANOS: 1979-80 fom bac wuSin ss on Valve clearances: te eho. oi ae © oa EN TEUEL. SASS 02> yee See Eee ne

ale adorns seis Siwalls os otefe eis ecg wea wowace am bee

0.35 - 0.45 mm (0.014 - 0.017 in) 0.40 - 0.50 mm (0.016 - 0.020 in)

a Sa cia Sew aes aw oe ten ge one Pa

0.10 mm (0.004 in) 0.20 mm (0.008 in)

122 Servicing specifications Cycle parts PFONEIONG ON JOVOL: pac Brake shoe/pad wear Front brake lever free Front Drake Cable tree

rarnzianek AR ae ena a A aie en rd eR Tebeire limit- all models ...........0 cece eee en nee play - /5, /6,/7 up to 1980 ..............00 eee DIA = /S,AGU/S 0 ckc de ws vise Pletnie Wale seine stain

Front brake cam lever movement

-/5, R60/6

........... 2. cence eee

Front disc brake master cylinder free play - all other /6 and all /7 UFO. TEBO viscecex recta A een tea tutuatah xa Healy araln 0,SMOAD ean Ime eeneTte NOs Rear disc brake master cylinder free play ...... 0c cee seee eee eee Rear died Drake Dedal 11 DIA raha. wae ue eae vo sierra ne as ain ee Reararun brake pedal 1feaiplay wir reeencs saan ane a dice woe wien

see Chapter 7 1.5 mm (0.06 in) 4-6mm (0.16 - 0.24 in) 8 - 15 mm (0.32 - 0.59 in) 4 mm

(0.16 in)

1.2 mm (0.0472 in) 1.4 - 1.5 mm (0.055 - 0.059 in) 15 - 20 mm (0.6 - 0.8 in) 16 - 25 mm (0.6 - 1.0 in)

Torque wrench settings Component Engine oil drain plug:

MOC

US 10: TBO

Nm

Not available

Not available

All models 1981 on except R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R_ ...... R80G8,/RE0R; AI00GS; RIi00R..< nctertie.s Maidens, ne vtadsasteals

30 - 35 30

22 - 26 22

Oil filter inner cover retaining bolt-/5,/6 Only ....... cece eee eee Ol titenadapter MOU DOs ert. wie ih vases devente neey ne ney a Oil cooler banjo union bolts at filter adapter- R100GS, R100R....... Cylinder head retaining nuts - all models up to 1980: FOt OtAGe esicstie Sie nha a is ik ii ate ae eee ee ees ONG OtAQe ss Kacy ean was: wha de. Vena ole ee eRe Te OF STAYS sia es Se ETA te ae pe beara Ree eee

41 10 18 - 20

30 7.9 13-17

is, 35 40

11 26 29.5

38 - 42

28 - 31

15 25 35 35 - 39

11 18.5 26 26-29

22 - 26

16 - 18.5

18 - 23 20 - 30 20-23 28 - 31 23 - 26

13.5 - 17 15 - 22 TO, 21-23 17-19

14

10

Standard setting:

tr grin

die e's mars tcateatey vagus A a

ances Pra

as

MAC

09 7 i

nme

rere

Ibf ft

rei

Cylinder head retaining nuts - all models 1981 on: 16t S1AQ6 civ rans Sa es Serena ota a Pay tore meres ANA OtAGE- acs ahaa neha ea ia ie Bi ae 89 0 9%. 3 Pet eee Sd Stage: vs ieee tae A Tes He aee bod ee nie eee en Standard setting “oct nara vw 7 a ale ere A eee Rocker cover cap nut - R80 and R8ORT 1985 on, R100RS

and R100RT 1987 on, R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R

............

Valve adjuster lOCKknUis raat iss wees ost nae ON SHAK PlUGES = 5.vav Kaka ON teas a os Ae ae oats een Clutch operating lever adjuster locknut - all models up to 1980 CABAL BOX OM TINO LU iy ais wer rnae ian a9: cere ace) ocala ena ana GOarDOX OM Cray PMG Pa steerer wtttuen a seen ncvotete vie, eee eeena

tales wears ND ...... TNE mate oe onal

Driveshaft oil filler plug: All Modéela: UD 10.1080 ssminirrnier ere esi erena San Tres R45 1981 on, R65 1981-85, R65LS, R80G/S, R80ST, R80RT 1983-84, /7 models 1981-84 0.0. uae cee cesses R80 and R8ORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and PIOORT ISS OM asda ae ee ny ania st eatin oy ements Driveshaft oil drain plug: AULIMOOSIE UD 10.1 BBO me is ware rcentate iets eanen ierea tabrelieve esate auteaens R45 1981 on, R65 1981-85, R65LS, R80G/S, R80ST, POOR Wwe es84.7/ 7 MOMS. LUO Raia ease olen cman gard andes R80 and R8ORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and Ml) MMH Aol pI SMe rerehe ected mringrncarmetateot iat. Olan Larne miele Rear bevel drive: Combined oil filler/level plug All MOGI UD TO 180 2ne weed mou a aire nti cee oRP aceite RSOGS, REO) RIOOGSy OOK ays ce eine nme sie Rerile A bier inne Separate oil filler plug: R80 and R8ORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and MT OQOR TLRS Z.OM nts wis, siren ibis elena CWS,cacuesbi GRA, Akio gear Lease, occas) Gunna Swinging arm pivots - all models except R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: PivOushiaiter tO PrelOad! DEALINGS a cjave ory cree e «age ye me rege ewe PRUChEStceSe MOMMA SOUING = cxrmns «aie. ce elesures OU G sea. S.c ems bia 6 os Pivot shaft locknuts: Pome srancnOo Up tO 1980) . 2a ieee ve eee ees © ow trie ‘|| SUEY CES) ARCs, SEES DIS nome ntenistoaikts rat eae Swinging arm pivots - R80GS, R80R, R100GS, R100R: Bivousicditssto preload bearings «....... skeet eeece cece eee Someatict toe a Oial SCLIMG Mt. cvs 0 tee nian mo cie siden s e's arajart Gis ys MEO

EUIES rrr Se cee Gseucnce Ol etek

OE

Oe

or eauk kines

Steering head adjustment - R80R, R100R, R80GS and R100GS 1991 on: Fork leg pinch bolts in bottom yoke: Eee O ESTA OEAha screeteers ase ahAS ah aeaici «ROS STRESSING ae rare ISOS), ENE RS a he 8 dig 1 ce aeons nei Ucn ero cereeens mee Stem adjuster sleeve and adjuster sleeve locknut ............... Steering head adjustment - all other models: Fork leg pinch bolts in bottom yoke: et EOS GOM OGO, ROOLG.. ayes cis a0 somal ines oes 6 sph apae sc & BECO GOL) ME Se eter rx,cial opsiro:'a. Mer epee tsersisie eos oe:are Ayah POREOOROMMVOKO NUTS 6 siete cn ve ee Daneuers Sm vives od oe vue R80 and R80RT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT TRSYEY/ GIR. 8 So Ses a Cee Ie ct ORCA hig ee RooGsranG nlOOGS 1988-90). nvak acc caches 6s lees Saree ees PURE OMIMOCOIS tet are ex anc = Oles «ote Perenhines alee webiy sein aE a See Steering stem top nut: PML OMA RO! 1OBO sncgn tresses wisleae Sele ceie ays ee sad ele abe & BACON O ISOS ROOLSwrjeuerycistss aslets sloveels eases ssgues R80 and R80RT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT TISMOnywReOGS and RiOOGS 1988-90. .................-5. PA MMOUINE aTIOCLC|S wiatecte ances cet earner err Geet ates wa aearay dvs mene, hs, a Stconnegaciuster clamp nnGs/5 .thasccSeveecsk ene wanne ees Front fork damper rod retaining nut - /5, /6,/7 up to 1980 .......... Fork oil drain plug:

Ibf ft

6-7

45-5

5-6

4-4.5

20 10-12

ake. 7.5-9

100 - 110 100 - 120

74-81 74 - 88.5

18 - 22 8-12

13 - 16 6-9

95-119

70 - 88

21 19

15.5 14

65

48

40 - 45 35 - 40 33 - 35

29.5 - 33 26 - 29.5 24 - 26

25.3 - 33.3 15 40

18.5 - 24.5 12 29.5

120 - 130 80 - 90

88.5 - 96 59 - 66

107

79

120 10-12 23 - 26

88.5 7.5-9 17-19

8

6

5-7

4-5

9

6.5

20 10 14

15 Te) 10

R45, R65 up to 1985, R65LS, R80G/S, R80ST, R80 and R80RT up to late 1985, /7 models 1981-84

....................

R65 1986 on, R80 arid R80RT late 1985 on, R100RS and R100RT TUSmOnsRoOGS, ROOR, Ri0OGS, RIOOR g..2.0

}—————_——

120 mm

fag 140

provided, prise out a gudgeon pin wire circlip from its groove (see illustration); on later 800 cc and 1000 cc models use circlip pliers to remove the circlips. Discard all used circlips and renew them on reassembly. 4 Heat the piston with a rag soaked in boiling water,

or a hot flat iron, and

push out the

gudgeon pin. Do not use force, or the connecting rod may be bent, or other damage caused. Alternatively, use a special gudgeon pin removing tool. 5 Repeat for the other piston. Mark the pistons left or right to ensure that they are correctly refitted (see illustration).

8

Dismantling the engine unit removing the connecting rods

|

(4.724 in) aa

Se

mm (5.51 in) —__—__——____»

6.9 Cylinder removing adapter 7 mm

WHEY

1 Support the pistons with a wooden block as already described. 2 Note the arrow and the legend ‘VORN’ on the piston crown, indicating the front of the piston. Also the larger (inlet) valve pocket is at the rear. 3 With a small screwdriver in the slot

gudgeon pin

be

(0.27 in) thick (BMW No. 209)

2 Do not remove the cylinder through studs unnecessarily. Unscrew them with a stud extractor, or with locknuts threads. Note which end screws crankcase.

on their into the

HAYNES

Refer to Tools and

HINT

Workshop Tips in the Reference section for stud

3 To

removal methods.

remove

one

connecting

rod,

both

cylinders must be taken off. Turn the engine to top dead centre (TDC).

4 Unscrew the two connecting rod splinedhead bolts through the crankcase mouth (see illustration). Take off the bearing cap, and the connecting rod. Note the position of the bearing cap dowel pins, towards the front (alternator) end. Mark left and right-hand rods.

WHYremove

1 Each connecting rod may be checked roughly for truth while installed in the engine. Pass a straight, close fitting bar through the small-end. Turn the engine until the bar touches the crankcase mouth, and check that it does so on both sides.

7.5 Mark pistons (left or right) as soon as each is removed

5 The connecting rod bolts are not re-usable, and must be renewed.

6 Repeat for the second connecting rod.

8.4 Splined bit will be required to unscrew connecting rod bolts

2°14

Engine

9

ba 9.4 Remove the clamp screw to release the rev-counter cable (where fitted)

9.6 It may be necessary to heat the timing chain cover to remove it

13

x

1 Remove the engine front cover, see Section 5 of this Chapter. 2 Pull off the leads to the diode plate, noting their positions, and take the wiring harness and grommet out of the cut-out in the cover. 3 Remove the alternator and ignition system components, see Chapter 10 and Chapter 6 respectively. 4 Slacken the rev-counter cable clamp screw (see illustration), and withdraw the cable from the housing complete with grommet (models up to 1977 only) .

14

5 Unscrew the nine Allen screws,

et

sleeve nuts, which retain the timing chain cover. Pull off the cover. 6 If the cover is held too firmly, remove the diode plate and capacitor by unscrewing their

eo Ul. =x 1s BE A My | By ei

Q , OWe if DBS

mS Dismantling the engine unit - WS removing the timing chain cover ¥

;

.

6) ev 0:

various screws,

and three

and heat the cover to 80° -

100°C (176° - 212°F) in the vicinity of the crankshaft bearing at the top of the cover. It should then be possible to free the cover (see illustration). 7 There is an extractor available (BMW Service Tool No. 11.1.800) which bolts on to the alternator fixing bosses. These are tapped M5.

10 Dismantling the engine unit - & removing the timing chainand camshaft 10.1a

1 2 3 4 5

Camshaft sprocket Screw Camshaft bearing Camshaft Woodruff key

1 2 3 4 5

Camshaft sprocket Bolt Lock washer Camshaft bearing Woodruff key

10.1b

Timing chain assembly - all models up to 1978

6 7 8 9 10

Timing chain Circlip Chain tensioner Tensioner spring Rev-counter drive

11 12 13 14

Washer Oil seal Bush Bolt

Ww x ~y

1 First remove the engine front cover, and timing chain cover as previously described (see illustrations). 2 On all models up to 1978, remove the chain tensioner circlip (see illustration), push back the chain tensioner spring, and remove the tensioner blade (see illustration). Unscrew the lower collared nut retaining the tensioner spring, and remove the spring. 3 On all models from 1979 on, remove the single nut and the bolt which retain the fixed chain guide and remove the chain guide assembly. Using a small screwdriver, remove the circlip which retains the chain tensioner on its pivot post and gently pull the chain

Timing chain assembly - all models 1979 on

6 7 8 9 10

Camshaft Timing chain Circlip Chain tensioner Spring

11 12 13 14

Plunger Fixed chain guide Bolt Lock washer

10.2a All models up to 1978 - remove the chain tensioner circlip...

Engine

2°15

complete fairing to minimise the risk of damage. See Chapter 7. 3 Remove all exhaust system components. See Chapter 5. 4 Remove the engine front and starter motors

m

: >>

10.2b

...and remove the tensioner

components

tensioner blade away. Disconnect the timing chain at its connecting link and remove the chain. 4 On all models, unscrew the two slotted or Allen countersunk screws retaining the front camshaft bearing (see illustration). These are accessible through the holes in the camshaft sprocket, when any pair is horizontal. 5 Push out the cam followers from within the crankcase, or hook them out with a magnet or a piece of wire. Mark them clearly (left inlet, left exhaust, etc) and store them with the valve gear (see illustration).

Endless timing chain 6 Where an endless timing chain (no joining link) is fitted, the two sprockets must be removed

together,

and

as

the

camshaft

sprocket should only be pressed off the camshaft in a suitable press, this means that the camshaft and sprocket must be removed as a single unit. This task should therefore be performed only after the gearbox, clutch and

flywheel have been removed so that the oil pump can be dismantled and its inner rotor Woodruff key removed from the camshaft rear end. Refer to Section 11 and to Chapters 4 and 3 for details of the necessary preliminary dismantling operations. 7 Using BMW tool No. 11.2.600 with the appropriate adapter or a legged puller, extract the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration). Note that this may damage the timing chain

which should be renewed as a matter of course. Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket, timing chain and camshaft.

:

‘

ERT

:

a Be

AOD

Ss:

Rattan

‘

rth

fs

=

covers. See Section 5. 5 Either remove all electrical and ignition components as described in Chapters 10 and 6, or disconnect all related wiring which joins the engine to the frame. Note which wires lead to which component (noting individual terminals, where necessary). 6 Referring to Chapter 1, drain the engine oil

Re

/ =

10.4 Remove the camshaft front bearing screws (early models shown)

Split timing chain 8 If a timing chain with joining link has been fitted, the two sprockets can be withdrawn individually once the timing chain has been removed. Extract the crankshaft sprocket and bearing using BMW tool No. 11.2.600 with the appropriate grooved adapter or a legged puller. 9 The camshaft sprocket may be removed by levering it off the camshaft using two large screwdrivers or tyre levers. Take great care to lift the sprocket evenly and not to mark the crankcase casting. The chain tensioner plunger and spring may then be removed from their housing for examination and renovation. 10 The camshaft cannot be removed until the gearbox, clutch and flywheel have been removed so that the oil pump can be dismantled and its inner rotor Woodruff key removed from the camshaft rear end. Refer to Section 11 and to Chapters 4 and 3 for details of the necessary preliminary dismantling operations.

11 Removing the engine from the frame

and remove the oil filter. Where fitted, remove

the oil cooler to prevent the risk of damage. 7 Disconnect the rev-counter drive cable (where fitted) and unlock the return springs of both side and centre stands. Ensure that the machine is supported securely with blocks of wood so that it cannot fall off the stand. 8 Since the engine unit, even without both cylinder

heads

the

is heavy

and

out of the frame, bearing in mind what work is

3. 10 Make a final check that all components, electrical leads and cables have been removed which might hinder engine removal, then lift the engine unit clear of the lower frame tubes, tilting to the left to miss the upper tube, and take it out of the frame. This will require additional assistance.

12 Dismantling the engine preliminaries Warning: Do not use petrol (gasoline) as a cleaning medium - the vapour is explosive and can be toxic if used in a confined space.

1 Raise or remove the seat, remove the side

fairings; it may be advisable to remove

barrels,

to be undertaken on it. 9 Remove the gearbox. See Chapter 4. The clutch may be removed at this stage or after the engine has been withdrawn. See Chapter

Hh

panels and the fuel tank (See Chapter 5). 2 Where appropriate, remove the lower fairing sections on machines fitted with RS or RT

and

unwieldy, it is advisable to remove as many more items as possible before taking the unit

1 Before any dismantling work is undertaken, the external surfaces of the unit should be thoroughly cleaned and degreased. This will prevent the contamination of the engine internals, and will also make working a lot easier and cleaner. A high flash-point solvent, such as paraffin (kerosene) can be used, or better still, a proprietary engine degreaser such as Gunk. Use old paintbrushes and toothbrushes to work the solvent into the various recesses of the engine castings. Take care to exclude solvent or water from the electrical components and inlet and exhaust ports.

2 When clean and dry, arrange the unit on the workbench,

10.5 Mark the cam followers as soon as each is withdrawn (see text)

10.7 Use a suitable extractor to remove the crankshaft sprocket

leaving a suitable clear area for

working. Gather a selection of small containers and plastic bags so that parts can be grouped together in an easily identifiable manner. Some paper and a pen should be on

2°16

Engine 6 Knock out, if necessary, the inner and outer

thrust washers from the rear wall of the crankcase. Note the locating pegs, and the radial grooves which face outwards. The thrust washers must be replaced in the same positions; they have coloured markings. 7 The crankshaft can be removed with the engine in the frame, but the task is much easier with it out.

a 14.3

13.1 Oil pump cannot be removed until gearbox, clutch and flywheel have been withdrawn hand to permit notes to be made and labels attached where necessary. A supply of clean

rag is also required. 3 Before commencing work, read through the appropriate section so that some idea of the necessary procedure can be gained. When removing the various engine components it should be noted that great force is seldom required, unless specified. In many cases, a component’s reluctance to be removed is indicative of an incorrect approach or removal method.

If in any doubt,

re-check

with the

text.

13 Dismantling the engine unit removing the oil pump

- general

Extract the crankshaft front main

bearing housing 5 Examination of the oil pump is described in Chapter 5.

14 Dismantling the engine unit removing the crankshaft

1 Remove

the

engine

from

the frame,

as

described previously.

2 Preparatory work involves removal of the cylinder heads and barrels (Section 6 of this Chapter); pistons (Section 7); connecting rods (Section 8); clutch and flywheel (Chapter 3); oil pump (Section 13); timing chain cover (Section 9); and timing chain and camshaft (Section 10). 3 Remove the remaining three nuts from the front crankshaft bearing housing. Extract the housing (note the pressure relief valve at the top) (see illustration). There are two tapped holes for this purpose if a suitable extractor

loosen them, they will have to be drilled out.

3 Withdraw the inner and outer rotors with a bent wire or magnet. 4 Protect the oil pump bore with rag before extracting the Woodruff key (where fitted) from the camshaft.

The crankshaft must be removed in two stages...

can be made or obtained. Otherwise,

lever it

off very carefully. 4 Turn the crankshaft front bobweight to the top, and pull the first big-end journal clear of the crankcase mouth (see illustration). Now turn the crankshaft through 180°, so that the rear bobweight is at the top, and withdraw the

crankshaft completely (see illustration). 5 Prise

out

the

rear

oil

seal

1 Before examining the parts of the dismantled engine unit for wear it is essential that they should be cleaned thoroughly (see Section 12). 2 Examine the crankcase castings for cracks or other signs of damage. If a crack is discovered it will require a specialist repair. 3 Examine carefully each part to determine

VVKthe

HYP

1 Since it is mounted on the camshaft rear end, the oil pump cannot be withdrawn until the gearbox, clutch and flywheel have first been removed (see _ illustration). See Chapters 4 and 3. 2 Unscrew the four countersunk screws retaining the cover plate, and remove the plate and O-ring seal. If these screws are so tight that even an impact screwdriver will not

14.4a

15 Examination and renovation

Pa

carefully,

measuring its installed depth before doing so (see illustration). The open side (garter spring) of the seal faces the crankshaft.

14.4b ... with the bobweights positioned as shown to clear the crankcase

extent

of

wear,

checking

with

the

tolerance figures listed in the Specifications section of this Chapter or in the main text. If there is any doubt about the condition of a particular component, play safe and renew. 4 Use a clean lint free rag for cleaning and drying the various components. This will obviate the risk of small particles obstructing the internal oilways, and causing the lubrication system to fail. 5 Various instruments for measuring wear are required, including a vernier gauge or external micrometer and a set of standard feeler gauges. An internal and external micrometer

will be required to check wear limits. Additionally, although not absolutely necessary, a dial gauge with mounting bracket is invaluable for accurate measurement of endfloat, and play between components of very low diameter bores where a micrometer cannot reach. After some experience has been gained the state of wear of many components can be determined visually or by feel, and thus a decision on their suitability for continued service can be made without resorting to direct measurement.

14.5 Measure the installed depth of the crankshaft rear oil seal before removing it

Engine

we

16.1

HAYNES

HINT

7

Use a valve spring compressor to release valves

Instruction on how to use a vernier gauge, micrometer and dial gauge can be found in Tool and Workshop Tips in the Reference section.

16 Examination and renovation - valves, springs and guides

2°17

16.8 To remove the valve guides, machine them down to the circlip remove the circlip and drift out the remainder of the guide

and valve seat cutter, set to an angle of 45°. Never resort to excessive grinding because this will only pocket the valve in the head and lead to reduce engine efficiency. If there is any

carbon and burnt oil, examine the heads for

signs of pitting or burning. Examine the valve seats in the cylinder head. The exhaust valves and their seats will require the most attention because they are the hotter running. If the pitting is slight, the marks can be removed by grinding the seats and valve heads together, using fine valve grinding compound. 3 Smear a trace of fine valve grinding compound (carborundum paste) on the seat

face and apply a suction grinding tool to the head of the valve. Oil the stem of the valve and insert it in the guide until it seats in the grinding compound. Using a semi-rotary motion, grind-in the valve head to its seat. Lift

the valve occasionally to distribute the grinding compound more evenly. Repeat this application until an unbroken ring of light grey matt finish is obtained on both valve and seat. This denotes the grinding operation is now complete. Before passing to the next valve, make sure that all traces of the valve grinding compound have been removed from both the valve and its seat and that none has entered the valve guide. If this precaution is not observed, rapid wear will take place due to the highly abrasive nature of the carborundum base. 4 When deep pits are encountered, it will be necessary to use a valve refacing machine

- cylinder heads

SN

~

doubt about the condition of a valve, fit a new

one. 5 Examine the condition of the valve collets and the grooves in the valve stem in which they seat. If there is any sign of damage, new parts should be fitted. Check that the valve spring collar is not cracked. If the collets work loose or the collar splits whilst the engine is running, a valve could drop in and cause extensive damage. 6 Measure the valve stems for wear, comparing them with the unworn portion that does not extend into the valve guide. Check also the valve guides for excessive play. Check that the end of the stem is not indented

LLL

1 Use a valve spring compressor to release each of the valves in turn (see illustration). Keep the valves, valve springs and collets, etc., together in sets so that they are eventually replaced in their original location. 2 After cleaning all four valves to remove

17 Examination and renovation

from

contact

with the rocker

arm,

making

tappet adjustment difficult. 7 Check the free length of each valve spring and replace all springs if any one has taken a permanent set. Worn or ‘tired’ valve springs have a marked effect on engine performance and should preferably be renewed during each decoke as a matter of course, especially in view of their low overall cost. 8 The valve guides are an interference fit in the cylinder head. The rocker end of the guide should be milled away down to the circlip, and the circlip removed (see illustration). Heat

the cylinder head to 240° - 260°C (464° 500°F), and drive out the guide towards the combustion chamber, with a suitable drift.

9 Oversize guides are available. Drive new guides, complete with circlip into the heated cylinder head. After each has cooled, it must be reamed to the correct finished diameter. 10 After fitting new valve guides, the valve seats must be re-cut.

RIN

HINT

Check the sealing of the assembled valves by pouring

solvent into the inlet or exhaust ports, and checking that none leaks into the combustion chamber.

1 Remove all traces of carbon from the combustion chambers and the inlet and exhaust ports, using a soft scraper which will not damage the surface of the valve seats. Finish by polishing the combustion chamber and ports with metal polish so that carbon does not adhere so readily. Never use emery cloth since the particles of abrasive will become embedded in the soft metal. 2 Check to make sure the valve guides are free from oil or other foreign matter that might cause the valves to stick. 3 If the valve seats are pocketed, as the result of excessive valve grinding in the past, the valve seats should be re-inserted. This is a specialist task which requires expert attention and is quite beyond the means of the average owner. Pocketed valves cause a marked falloff in performance and reduced engine efficiency as a direct result of the disturbed gas flow. 4 Make sure the cylinder head fins are not clogged with oil or road dirt, otherwise the engine may overheat. If necessary, use a wire brush but take care not to damage the light alloy fins. 5 Check that there are no cracks, and that the

valve guides are secure. Ensure that the carburettor mounting stubs are secure. If necessary refit with Loctite No. 241.

18 Examination and renovation - rocker assemblies

HH

1 Examine carefully the outer surfaces of each rocker arm, to ensure there are no surface cracks or other signs of premature failure (see illustrations). The rocker arms should have a smooth surface to resist any tendency towards fatigue failure.

2°18

Engine

19 Examination and renovation Rocker arm Locknut

x

- timing chain, sprockets and

Ww

tensioner

EN

Adjuster bolt

1 It is unlikely that the timing chain and sprockets will require renewal, unless a chain breakage has damaged the teeth. 2 Check for uneven wear of the chain when still mounted on the crankcase, by removing the tensioner and turning the crankshaft a quarter turn at a time. Measure the play in the chain at each turn. If in doubt about chain

Pushrod Cam follower Needle roller = AnAARWNDH

bearing 7 Rocker spindle 8 Thrust washer - 5 SO /5 models 9 Rocker arm 10 Sleeve - /5 models 11 Exhaust valve 12 Inlet valve

13 Spring seat 14 Valve spring 15 Valve spring collar 16 Collets

condition, it should be renewed as a matter of

4

3

18.1a

Rocker gear - early models

2 The rocker arms should be a good sliding fit on the rocker spindles without excessive play. Noisy valve gear will result from worn rocker arms and spindles and performance may drop off as a result of reduced valve lift. If play is evident, the rocker arms should be renewed

and new spindles fitted. 3 Check the rocker arm adjuster and the end of the rocker which engages with the pushrod. Both these points of contact have hardened ends and it is important that the surface is not

scuffed, chipped or broken, otherwise rapid wear will occur. 4 The spacer on the rocker spindle should revolve freely without endfloat on /5 models. On all later models up to 1985 the rockers

course. 3 Examine the timing chain for broken rollers or cracked side plates or rivets. If an endless type chain is fitted check that it was not damaged when extracting the sprockets. 4 Inspect the teeth of the sprockets for chipping or hooking. 5 Check that the rubber slipper surface of the chain tensioner is not damaged. It may be grooved but as long as the rollers do not make contact it is still serviceable. Check that the tensioner spring has not weakened on early models; on later models check that the

tensioner plunger and spring are unworn. 6 Clean and inspect the crankshaft outrigger ball bearing without removing it from the

should be able to move freely, but without endfloat, when installed. The modified

assembly introduced in 1985 requires that shims be added as necessary to give endfloat (axial play) of 0.03 - 0.07 mm (0.0012 - 0.0028 in) (see illustrations).

18.4a Latest rocker assembly uses pressed-in plastic washer and must be shimmed to specified endfloat - can be fitted to earlier models, if required

PLASTIC* INSERT

CYLINDER HEAD

STUD

NUT ROCKER SPINDLE Rocker arm Rocker spindle

Needle roller bearing Plastic insert - 1985 on models Shim - 1985 on models Rocker arm Locknut Adjuster

Pushrod Pushrod tube seal Cam follower Exhaust valve Inlet valve Collets

Upper spring seat Valve spring Lower spring seat

18.1b Rocker gear - later models

PILLOW BLOCK WASHER CYLINDER HEAD 18.4b Rocker arm cross-section showing modified components (*) - 1985 on models Split in pillow block must face outwards

Engine sprocket. There must be no discernible radial play, nor any damage to the rollers or tracks. It may be extracted for replacement; chill the

sprocket overnight reassembly.

in

a

freezer

to

20 Examination and renovation

aid

NS

- pushrods, cam followers and camshaft

Ww EN

1 The camshaft is unlikely to show signs of wear unless a high mileage has been covered or there has been a breakdown in the lubrication system. Wear will be most obvious on the flanks of the cams and at the peak, where flattening-off may occur. Scuffing, or, in an

extreme

case,

discoloration,

is usually

possible the dimensions of the camshaft front and rear bearing surfaces and calculate the radial clearance of the camshaft at each bearing. If either clearance is beyond that specified, the appropriate components must be renewed to restore accurate ignition timing. 8 While this point is not as important on later models, where the Oldham coupling between the camshaft and the distributor (contact breaker housing) or ignition trigger unit minimises the effect of camshaft bearing wear on the ignition timing, it should be remembered if trouble has been experienced in setting the timing correctly.

21 Examination and renovation

S »

x

- cylinder barrels

indicative of lubrication breakdown . 2 If there is any doubt about the condition of the camshaft, it is advisable to renew it whilst

the engine is completely dismantled. Comparison with a new camshaft is often the best means of checking visually the extent of

wear. 3 Check the cam followers for wear or damage. Again it is extremely unlikely that any has occurred. If possible compare their measured dimensions with those specified. 4 Check the pushrods for straightness by

1 The usual indications of badly worn cylinder bores and pistons are excessive oil consumption and piston slap, a metallic rattle which occurs when there is little or no load on the engine. If the cylinder head end of the barrel

is

examined

carefully,

it will

be

them with accuracy. Check that the hardened

observed that there is a ridge on the thrust side of each cylinder bore which marks the limit of travel of the uppermost piston ring. The depth of this ridge will vary according to the amount of wear that has taken place and can therefore be used as a guide to bore

end

Wear.

rolling them on a flat surface. Replace any that are bent, since it is impracticable to straighten pieces

are

not

loose,

or the

internal

bearing surfaces worn, chipped or broken. 5 Check the endfloat of the front camshaft bush with a feeler gauge (see illustration). If it varies from the specified dimension, refit the chain sprocket. The bush is removed after extracting the sprocket (early models only).

2 Bore wear is measured using a bore gauge or an internal micrometer; if these are not available take the barrels and pistons to a competent BMW dealer so that they can be checked by an expert.

This

measurements,

requires

a

special adapter

on

the

camshaft end, since the centrifugal advance

spindle is rather slender. 6 Inspect the camshaft rear end bearing. This is not bushed, so cannot be replaced. 7 If, on models up to 1978, the ignition timing has been found to vary significantly from cylinder to cylinder, measure the runout of the ATU shaft. If this exceeds 0.02 mm (0.0008 in) the camshaft must be renewed; do not attempt to straighten it. If the shaft is found to be within limits measure as accurately as

3 Ovality

measured

by

taking

near the cylinder head

four end

(just below the wear ridge) both along the gudgeon pin axis and at right angles to it, and at the bottom of the bore (the least worn point), again along the gudgeon pin axis and at right angles to it. If any measurement differs from its counterpart at the same height by more than the maximum limit specified, the barrel is excessively worn. 4 Taper is measured at the top (just below the wear ridge), middle and bottom of the bore, at

right angles to the gudgeon pin axis. If any measurement differs from the others by more than the maximum limit specified, the barrel is excessively worn. 5 If measuring equipment is not available, a rough idea of the amount of bore wear can be obtained

20.5 Measuring camshaft endfloat (early model shown)

is

as follows,

but should

always

be

confirmed by an expert using accurate measuring equipment before any firm conclusions are drawn. Insert a compression ring so that it is about 1/2 inch from the top of the bore and seated squarely in the bore by pressing it down with the skirt of the piston. Measure the ring gap with a feeler gauge, then reposition the ring below the area traversed by the piston and measure the gap again. Subtract the second reading from the first and

2°19

divide the difference by three to give the piston/cylinder clearance. If this exceeds the maximum limit the bore is excessively worn. 6 On models up to 1980, if the bore is found to be excessively worn it can be rebored and an oversize piston and piston rings fitted. Check first with a BMW dealer what oversizes are available for the model in question. 7 On all models from 1981

on, if the barrels

are found to be excessively worn they must be renewed with the pistons and rings. Have all components measured by an expert to confirm the amount of wear before taking such an expensive course of action. 8 Check the surfaces of each cylinder bore to ensure there are no score marks or other signs of damage that may have resulted from an earlier engine seizure or displacement of one of the circlips. Even if the bore wear is not sufficient to necessitate a rebore or renewal (as appropriate), any such damage will override this decision in view of the compression leak that will occur. 9 Check the cylinder fins for clogging with road dirt. Inspect the pushrod rubber grommets. Renew _ frequently, since differential expansion and their exposed position lead to oil leaks.

.

22 Examination and renovation - pistons and piston rings

EN ~

s

1 If rebore or barrel renewal is necessary, the

pistons and rings can be discarded because they must be replaced by their oversize or new counterparts. 2 Remove all traces of carbon from the piston crown, using a soft scraper to ensure the surface is not marked. Finish off by polishing the

crown

with

metal

polish,

so

that

the

carbon will not adhere so readily. NEVER use emery cloth. 3 Piston wear usually occurs at the base of the skirt and takes the form of vertical streaks or score marks on the thrust side. If a previous engine seizure has occurred, the score marks

will be very obvious. Pistons which have been subjected to heavy wear or seizure should be rejected and new ones obtained. Measure piston diameter at right angles to the gudgeon pin axis, just above the base of the piston skirt. R45 pistons should be measured at 14 mm (0.55 in) above the skirt base, R65,

R100GS, R100R, R100RS and R100RT 1987on pistons at 18 mm (0.71 in), and R80G/S, R80GS, R80R, R80ST, R80 and R80RT 1985on pistons at 27 mm (1.06 in); such precise measuring points are not given for other models but should be similar. Compare the measurement obtained with that specified (the piston size code letter will be found stamped in the piston crown). 4 lf the piston has worn significantly, subtract its measured diameter from the minimum and maximum bore size measurements (see previous Section), to determine the

2°20

Engine 5 Instead

of the

feather-edged

lip seal

(described below) which relies for its efficiency upon a garter spring, this new type of seal incorporates a lip of a PTFE material (eg Teflon) which is not preshaped on delivery and relies upon its own inherent elasticity for the required contact

pressure. 6 Before installation the new seal must be shaped, for two hours, so that the crankshaft

thrust ring will pass through it with the minimum of effort and risk of damage. This is best achieved by pressing the seal on to the 22.5 Letter stamped in barrel indicates bore size code - barrel and piston should always be the same code

BMW

22.6

Method of removing piston rings

piston/cylinder clearance. If this is more than the maximum permissible limit specified, the piston is excessively worn (assuming that the bore is within wear limits) and must be renewed. 5 When either or both pistons are renewed, it is essential that the new components are of the same size code as their respective barrels (the barrel size code letter is stamped into the base flange), that both are of the same weight group (see Specifications) and, on 800 cc and 1000 cc models only, that both use the same type of gudgeon pin retaining circlip (see illustration). 6 Remove the piston rings carefully, by expanding them sufficiently to pass over the piston. If necessary use three thin strips of metal to ease them from their grooves (see illustration). The rings are very brittle, and must not be handled roughly. Note which groove each ring came out of, and which way up on each piston. 7 Clean the ring grooves of any burnt deposits. A piece of old broken ring is useful

the recommended limit, the piston rings are worn and must be renewed. 10 The gudgeon pins must be a good sliding fit in the small-end of the connecting rods without evidence of play. Worn small-ends produce a rattle, not unlike piston slap, which will rapidly increase in intensity.

for this, if used carefully.

illustration).

8 The piston ring grooves may become enlarged in use, permitting the rings to have greater side clearance. It is unusual for this type of wear to occur on its own, but if the side clearance appears excessive, new pistons of the correct size should be fitted. 9 Piston ring wear is measured as detailed in

2 Remove the timing chain cover seals by tapping them out from the rear of the cover.

Section

21.5.

If the end

gap

in the two

positions is nearly identical, but is greater than

23 Examination and renovation - oil seals

The presence of oil in the clutch housing, or contact breaker housing, may indicate the failure of the crankshaft oil seals, or the camshaft oil seal.

as a matter of course are disturbed (see

Timing chain cover seals

Do not attempt to lever them out; the seals,

especially later types, are a very tight fit in their housings and cannot be removed or refitted correctly with the cover in place without risk of damage. 3 The crankshaft front seal should be driven into its housing when the timing chain cover is flat on a work surface, but the camshaft seal

should not be fitted until the timing cover has been refitted to the engine. Both these seals should be fitted with their open or spring sides towards the crankshaft (or camshaft) and should be driven in until flush with the surrounding housing surface using as a drift a socket spanner or similar which bears only on the seal’s hard outer diameter.

23.1 Renew all seals as a matter of course - later types are difficult to remove and refit (see text)

tool, No.

11.1.880,

which

is

WKY

HAYNES

1 Renew all seals whenever they

service

specified as the installing drift. 7 If the specified tool is not available the seal can be shaped by pressing it carefully over the thrust ring; first polish away any burrs or sharp edges from the thrust ring using fine abrasive paper so that the seal lip is not damaged on installation. Whichever method is used, take care not to damage the spiral on the seal lip. 8 Once shaped, the seal can be tapped into place as described in paragraph 12, with its open side inwards (towards the crankshaft). Remember that the seal must be driven in to exactly the correct depth so that there is no risk of contact with the flywheel. 9 When refitting the thrust ring, note that the seal will bed in more rapidly if no oil or grease

Crankshaft rear seal - R80GS, R8OR, R100GS and R100R models 4 Prise out the crankshaft rear seal carefully having first measured its installed depth.

is present (ie installed dry); again take care not to damage inserted.

the seal

as the thrust

ring is

Crankshaft rear seal - all other models 10 Prise out the crankshaft rear seal carefully having first measured its installed depth. 11 Soak the new seal in engine oil for 3 hours before installation 12 Press the seal into place (spring or open side towards the crankshaft) using the special BMW tool No. 11.1.890 with adapter

No.

11.1.880.

It has to be installed to a

precise depth (approximately 14.4 14.6 mm/0.5669 - 0.5748 in) to avoid contact with the flywheel (models up to 1980) or

flywheel mounting ring (all models 1981 on).

24 Examination and renovation - connecting rods and big-end bearings

WHY

1 Check the big-ends for wear, whilst assembled on the crankshaft, by pushing and pulling on the connecting rods. There should be no discernible play. Note that the task of assessing bearing wear by measurement requires extremely accurate measuring equipment and the skill to use it. For those owners who have this skill and equipment the various dimensions and tolerance are quoted in the Specifications Section of this Chapter, but owners are advised to entrust all

Engine

2¢21

1]

25.4 Crankshaft - typical

1 2 3 4

Outrigger bearing Crankshaft sprocket Main bearing Dowel pin

5 Big-end bearing cap 6 Connecting rod 7 Big-end bearing

crankshaft repair work to a competent BMW dealer (see Section 25). 2 When

dismantled,

check

the

big-end

bearings and journal surfaces visually for scoring, wear or other damage. Treat the main bearings and journals in a similar manner. Bigend journals may be reground to three undersizes if restoration’is required, but note that BMW have found that such work is often not carried out to the required standards of accuracy and recommend that the best longterm course of action is to renew the crankshaft and bearing shells. 3 If crankshaft or bearing damage is found, take great care to clean out all oilways in the crankcase and crankshaft before reassembling the engine. 4 Check that the small-end bearings are secure, and have no more than the allowable wear. If they need to be replaced, they must be pressed out. The new ones have to be turned to size in a lathe, after fitting.

Each gudgeon pin should be a light sliding fit.

25 Examination and renovation

a

S

hi

_

= Crankshaft eral bearings

and main

SN wy

1 It is recommended that if the crankshaft and main bearings show any signs of wear or damage at all the crankcase, crankshaft and

8 Woodruff key 9 Crankshaft 10 Thrust washer

11 Ojl seal 12 Small-end bearing 13 Bolt

bearings should be dismantled as much as possible to minimise labour charges and should be taken to a competent BMW dealer for reconditioning. 2 There is little that the average owner can do other than this as the bearing bushes must be removed and refitted using a number of special tools to prevent damage. Also the task of measuring the various components to assess wear requires specialised and extremely accurate measuring equipment as well as the skill to use it. 3 BMW manufacture these components to very close tolerances to ensure the machine’s mechanical silence and longevity, but the tolerances have been changed from year to year as well as the method of bearing selection and the range of bearings available. Finally, note that while the crankshaft

main

bearing journals may be reground to three undersizes to compensate for wear, BMW have found that such work is often not carried out to the required standards of accuracy and recommend that the best long-term solution is to renew the crankshaft and bearing bushes. 4 |f crankshaft or bearing damage is found, take great care to clean out all oilways in the crankcase and crankshaft before reassembling the engine (see illustration). The cause of the damage (if other than wear due to the mileage covered) must be found and rectified before reassembly can proceed.

26 Engine reassembly - general

1 Before reassembly of the engine unit is commenced, the various component parts should be cleaned thoroughly and placed on a sheet of clean paper, close to the working area (see illustration). 2 Make sure all traces of old gaskets have

been removed and that the mating surfaces are clean and undamaged. Great care should be taken when removing old gasket compound not to damage the mating surface.

HAYNES

HINT

Refer to Tools and Workshop Tips in the Reference section for gasket removal methods,

3 Gather together all the necessary tools and have available an oil can filled with clean engine oil. Make sure that all new gaskets and oil seals are to hand, also all replacement parts required. Nothing is more frustrating than having to stop in the middle of a reassembly sequence because a vital gasket or replacement has been overlooked. As a general rule each moving engine component should be lubricated thoroughly as it is fitted into position.

2

2°22

Engine

os 17

22 26.1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Oil filter inner tube Oil filter outer tube Stud Stud Spring Circlip Washer

8 9 10 11

Valve disc Breather valve body Plug for timing hole Dowel, crankshaft thrust ring 12 Cylinder through stud 13 Spacer

14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Engine-housing - typical Oil pressure switch Washer Bolt Drain plug Sealing washer Sump Sump gasket

21

22 23 24 25 26

4 Make sure that the reassembly area is clean and that there is adequate working space. Refer to the torque and clearance settings wherever they are given. Many of the smaller bolts are easily sheared if overtightened.

27 Engine reassembly refitting the crankshaft

Dowel, front crankshaft bearing Collar nut Lock washer Nut Pressure relief valve housing Spring

removal sequence. Refit the front main bearing housing and tighten securely its retaining nuts. Check that the crankshaft rotates smoothly.

27 Pressure relief valve plunger 28 Plug 29 Chain tensioner pivot 30 Front bearing housing 31 Crankcase 32 Dowel Note: items 5 - 9 early type

3 Note that the flywheel mounting stub and the threaded holes for the flywheel retaining bolts must be clean and free from oil (see illustration).

WYK

1 It is assumed that the advice given in Sections 24 and 25 has been followed and that a BMW dealer has fitted new main bearing bushes, thrust washers (to restrict crankshaft endfloat to the required amount) and the crankshaft rear oil seal (see illustration). 2 If this has not been done by the dealer, coat

all bearing surfaces liberally with Molykote Paste G or with clean engine oil and insert the crankshaft into the crankcase, reversing the

a

5

©

ee

7.1 Check that thrust washers are securely mounted at front and rear of crankshaft rear main bearing before refitting crankshaft - locate each washer on the two locating pins

27.3 Crankshaft rear oil seal must be carefully fitted (see Sec 23) - check that flywheel mounting stub and threaded holes are clean and free from oil

Engine

es

ACESS

28.2a

Refitting the camshaft - endless

chain. Fit camshaft, sprockets and chain

as a single unit...

28 Engine reassembly - refitting the camshaft and timing chain

AS ~

x

he

6 Make sure that the camshaft is fully engaged in the rear bearing and refit the front bearing screws (see illustration). 7 Fit the chain tensioner and spring (see illustration). Recheck the timing marks.

13 Rotate the sprockets so that the timing marks are exactly aligned, then refit the chain and connect it by refitting the connecting link. Ensure that the closed end of the spring clip faces the direction of chain travel. Insert the chain tensioner blade and secure it with a circlip. Refit the chain guide assembly, ensuring that it is exactly parallel to the chain before tightening the mounting bolt and nut. The guide is slotted to permit it to be moved into the correct position. Recheck the timing marks.

Split timing chain 8 Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC position

Liberally smear with Molykote Paste G or with clean engine oil the camshaft rear bearing

Liberally smear with Molykote Paste G or with clean engine oil the camshaft rear bearing surfaces. 9 Oil the camshaft bearing surfaces and insert it into the crankcase. Fit the flanged bearing and tighten the two retaining screws, then check that the camshaft rotates smoothly. 10 Press the Woodruff key into its camshaft keyway and position the camshaft sprocket

chain and crankshaft sprocket (see illustration). Align the engraved marks on the sprockets (see illustration) and note the position of the keyway in the crankshaft sprocket. Turn the crankshaft so that the key is in the same relative position . 3 Insert the camshaft into the crankcase (the oil pump must be removed) until the crankshaft sprocket engages the taper. 4 Ensure that the crankshaft keyway, and the engraved marks on the sprockets still align, then tap the sprocket firmly- into position (see illustration). Check that the crankshaft and camshaft rotate smoothly. 5 If the ball journal bearing has been removed, heat until it can be dropped onto the crankshaft sprocket (see illustration).

|

28.4 Check that crankshaft sprocket keyway aligns with key and timing marks are still aligned before tapping sprocket into place

1 Rotate the crankshaft to the TDC position and refit the sprocket locating Woodruff key.

surfaces.

ae

28.2b ... ensuring that sprocket timing marks align exactly with chain slack on tensioner side

Endless timing chain

2 Assemble as a single unit the camshaft,

2°23

and refit the sprocket locating Woodruff key.

so that its keyway aligns with the key before pushing it into place. Applying counterpressure at the camshaft rear end (via the oil pump housing) tap the sprocket fully into place. 11 Fit the crankshaft sprocket and outrigger ball bearing as described in paragraphs 4 and 5 above. 12 Insert the tensioner plunger and spring into their housing and check that they are free to move in and out. Oil them lightly.

All models 14 On all models, using the notes made on removal, fit each cam follower into its original crankcase bore and ensure that all are well

lubricated. Oil the crankshaft outrigger bearing and timing chain, and refit the oil pump inner rotor camshaft rear end.

Woodruff

29 Engine reassembly refitting the oil pump

key

to

the

x~

xs

1 Insert both rotors into the pump housing, aligning the camshaft key and the two dots on the rotors (see illustration).

¢

28.5 Heat the outrigger bearing to refit do not forget to lubricate it once it has cooled

28.6 Tighten securely the camshaft front bearing screws

28.7

Refit the chain tensioner assembly and re-check the timing marks

2°24

Engine

Rene

29.1

Align the dot on each rotor to ensure correct pump reassembly

30.2

29.3 Ensure that the pump cover O-ring is correctly positioned

It may be necessary to heat the

timing chain cover to refit it - refit oil seals as described in text

2 Oil the rotors liberally with clean engine oil. 3 Ensure that the O-ring seal is correctly positioned before replacing the cover (see illustration). The cover can only be fitted one way

up, with the lower two

screws

further

apart.

30 Engine reassembly - refitting the timing chain cover

EN SN 4

1 Place the gaskets in position on the crankcase; do not forget the two gasket strips at the top of the housing (where fitted).

31 Engine reassembly - refitting the connecting rods and pistons

4 Turn the crankshaft to TDC and refit the connecting rods to the same journals. Both rods in an engine must have the same weight or colour marking. The locating dowels for the bearing cap must be towards the front of the engine (see illustration). 5 Check that the bearings turn freely, after tightening the bolts to the recommended torque setting (see illustration). 6 Fit the piston rings to the pistons. Make sure that they are the correct way up; different markings (usually the inscription Top/Oben) to identify the top surface, have been used. Thin strips of metal are useful to assist in replacing rings (see illustration 22.6), place them between the expanded ring and the piston.

WKY

1 Ensure that the surfaces in the connecting rod big-end and bearing caps are clean before fitting new bearing shells. Press the new shells into position ensuring that their locating tabs are correctly positioned (see illustration). 2 Coat the big-end journals with Molykote Paste G, or oil well (see illustration). 3 Always use new big-end bolts, as the original ones may have stretched.

2 Before refitting the cover, the diode plate,

ignition components and camshaft oil seal should be removed. Heat the cover to 80° 100°C (176° - 212°F), and tap into position on the crankcase (see illustration). Centre the centrifugal advance spindle in the oil seal housing. 3 Tighten the Allen screws and nuts, starting from the centre. The two shorter screws go at the top centre. 4 Refit the camshaft oil seal. 5 Refit the diode plate, alternator, and ignition

components, illustration).

faq

31.2

see Chapters

eis

6 and

10 (see

30.5

Do not fit the electrical components

until the cover has cooled down (if heated)

31.1 Ensure locating tabs engage correctly when refitting bearing shells

31.4 Locating dowels (arrowed) on connecting rod and cap must be towards front (alternator) end of engine

31.5 Tighten connecting rod bolts to specified torque setting - always renew bolts

ws

Lubricate thoroughly all journals and

bearing shells

Engine

2¢25

16773

31.7a Stamped marks (see text) on piston crown show which way piston must be installed

31.7b Ensure circlips are correctly seated to retain gudgeon pin - always renew circlips

7 Replace one circlip. Warm the piston and press the gudgeon pin home. The arrow cast on the piston crown and the word ‘vorn’ (front) must point forwards (see illustration). Refit the second circlip. Make sure that both circlips seat firmly in their grooves (see illustration). One end of the circlip must overlap the screwdriver slot completely (wire type only). Repeat for the second piston.

renewed whenever the barrels are removed and should be coated similarly with jointing compound on refitting. 3 Where the base joint is sealed by O-rings, the large O-ring is 2 mm (0.08 in) in diameter in standard form and should be sufficient to prevent oil leaks if the sealing faces are clean

32 Engine reassembly refitting the cylinder-barrels

Wh

1 Before refitting the barrels check carefully that the correct base gaskets/compression plates or O-ring seals are available. Standard /5 and /6 models use only a base gasket; all other models in standard form use a large Oring which is inserted into a groove in the cylinder base, around the bore spigot and two

smaller O-rings which are set in grooves in the cylinder base around the two upper stud holes. The O-rings should be renewed whenever they are disturbed. 2 Extra compression plates may have been fitted to any model; these, where found, should be carefully cleaned and refitted with a thin coat of Hylomar SQ32/M or similar nonsetting jointing compound in addition to any other seals or gaskets appropriate to that model. Standard base gaskets should be

and

unmarked

by

dents

or

32.4 Cylinder base flange sealant application - later models

scratches,

although a thin coat of jointing compound will help to ensure this; take care to keep the jointing compound well away from the two oilways, sealed by O-rings. However, if persistent oil leaks have been encountered a thicker O-ring (2.2 mm/0.09 in) is available. 4 From April 1991 the cylinder base flange was widened around the upper stud holes. When refitting the cylinders, apply Threebond sealing compound to the flange taking care not to allow any to enter the oilways (see illustration). Sealant can be applied to the cylinder-to-crankcase joint of earlier models, but extreme care must be taken not to allow any to fall into the oilways due to the thinner gasket face area. 5 Place the gasket, compression plate and/or O-rings in position on the barrel flange, using the jointing compound to stick them in place. Check that the push rod tube seals are in place. 6 Support the piston with a wooden block and use a piston ring clamp to compress the rings (see illustration). The piston ring gaps should be positioned at 120° relative to one

x

32.6 Piston ring clamp can be used if required when refitting barrels - oil piston and bore

another. If a ring clamp is not available one may be improvised using worm-drive clips and a thin metal strip. 7 Oil the pistons and the cylinder bores with

clean engine oil. Make sure the correct barrel is replaced using for identification the notes made on removal. Push the barrel onto the piston carefully, engaging the piston rings. When all three rings are entered into the bore, remove the clamp and push the barrel fully home. Repeat for the second cylinder barrel. 8 Seat the pushrod tubes firmly using the installation tool (see illustration) except for all models from 1981 on, where the seal support rings are brazed in place and cannot be moved.

180 mm (7.086 in)

|

|

0°

ceLl

|300

45 mm

(1.771 in): /

Inside diameter

17 mm (0.669 in)

32.8 Pushrod grommet seating tool (BMW No 11.1.600) - all models up to 1980

2°26

Engine

33.1b Install valve springs with paintmarked coils against cylinder head

seats

33 Engine reassembly - refitting the cylinder heads and rocker gear

EN

xhi

1 Ensure that the valve spring bottom seats are fitted firmly (see illustration). The marks on the valve springs must be adjacent to the cylinder head (see illustration). 2 Place the upper spring collar on the valve and compress the valve spring. Replace the valve collets, making sure that they fit firmly in the semi-circular grooves (see illustration). Valve collets are in pairs, and must be kept together. 3 Release the spring compressor and seat the valve collets firmly with a few blows with a

33.4a

Always renew head gaskets when refitting cylinder heads

soft

hammer

square

the

valve

stem.

holes are offset to one side, so they must be

aligned correctly (see illustration). On 900 cc models modifications to the method of locating the cylinder head meant that the two locating dowels in the barrel and_ their corresponding recesses in the head were removed (frame number 4.050 544 on - R90/6,

4.081 080 on - R9OS). The gasket which fits the earlier type of head is no longer available, so either the dowels on earlier models must be removed (heat the barrel and draw them out with pliers) or the corresponding holes in the new gasket (see illustration) must be punched out to 14.5 mm (0.57 in).

33.4b

Head gasket modifications - 900 cc models

» Vom

33.6 Ensure pushrods are refitted in their original locations

on

Repeat for the other valves. 4 Fit new cylinder head gaskets; the pushrod

33.2 Compress valve spring to refit collets

5 Assemble the first cylinder head onto its barrel. Fit the cylinder head to barrel nuts and thick washers (see illustration). Do not tighten. 6 Oil and replace the pushrods in their correct location (see illustration). 7 Fit new O-ring seals (where fitted) on the cylinder through studs followed by the spacer sleeves (see illustration). 8 With the tappet adjusters unscrewed, replace the rocker assemblies. Fit the four nuts. On all models from January

1980 on,

ensure that the punch mark in one end of each rocker spindle is at the top and facing outwards,

away from the head, so that the

rocker feed oilways are correctly aligned (see illustration).

33.5 Do not forget washers before refitting retaining nuts

%

33.7 Do not forget spacers or O-rings (where fitted) before refitting rocker assemblies

33.8 Rocker spindle punch marks (arrowed) must be at the top and face outwards - all models from early 1980 on

Engine 2¢27

|

34 Refitting the engine in the

Two bolts or rivets

frame

20 mm (0.787 in)

SS

xy i /

Diameter 8 mm (0.314 in) in) 104 mm(4.09 52 mm

in)! (2.047

fe | 20 mm

(0.787 in)

33.9a

| 114.5 mm (4.507 in) |

:

155 mm (6.1 in)

Rocker assembly tool - thickness 20 mm (0.787 in) BMW No. 200

9 Using a jig (BMW No 200) (see illustration),

on /5 models only, to hold the rocker pillow blocks, tighten the cylinder head nuts in the correct sequence (see illustration). The nuts should be tightened in three stages to the specified torque setting. The function of the jig is to ensure that the rocker assembly is square. If it is not set up correctly, the result will be noisy valve gear and possibly bent pushrods and valves (very expensive). Note that the jig is not necessary on later models, which have self-aligning pillow blocks. Caution: It may be found that it is

impossible to tighten the cylinder head nut on the front upper stud due to the stud pulling out of the block and damaging the thread. This was overcome on models produced from late 1990 by the fitting of a Heli-Coil thread insert in the crankcase,

but if the problem occurs on earlier models, tap the hole in the crankcase and fit a thread insert - refer to Fasteners in the Reference section of this manual.

10 When

the

head

is securely

1 If this has not been done, refit the flywheel and clutch as described in Chapter 3. 2 Protect the frame tubes with suitable padding and enlist the aid of an assistant to lift the engine into the frame. Move it as far forwards as possible. 3 Refit the gearbox, as described in Chapter 4. 4 Hook up the stand return springs and connect the tachometer drive cable (where fitted). 5 Referring to Chapter 1, fit a new oil filter element and refill the engine with oil. 6 Connect to the main loom again, or refit (as appropriate) all electrical and_ ignition components. Check the contact breaker points gap as described in Chapter 1 (all models up to 1980) then refit the spark plugs after checking that they are correctly gapped (see Chapter 1). Connect the plug leads to the spark plugs. Refit the starter motor cover. 7 Refit the exhaust system. See Chapter 5. 8 Refit the fairing components removed (where applicable). 9 Refit the fuel tank, side panels and seat.

fastened,

check that the rockers have the correct amount of endfloat and are free to move (see illustration), also that the pushrods are in the

35 Starting and running the rebuilt engine

centre of the tunnels. Oil the rockers liberally. Repeat the assembly instructions for the

second cylinder head. 11 Reset the valve clearances as described in Chapter 1 and replace the rocker cover.

12 After 1000 km (600 miles) from rebuilding the engine, the torque of the cylinder head nuts and the valve clearances should be checked. If slight oil leaks appear at the pushrod

grommets,

re-seat

with

the

tool

shown in illustration 32.8 (early models only).

1 Attempt to start the engine using the usual procedure adopted for a cold engine. If a kickstart is fitted this should be used in preference to the electric starter, to preserve battery charge if the engine proves reluctant to start or is difficult to turn over because of tightness caused by the fitting of new components. Do not be disillusioned if there is no sign of life initially. A certain amount of

&

33.9b

Cylinder head nut tightening sequence

33.10

experienced DIY oN DIY mechanic ~\ mechanic

SN Very difficult,

Specifications Note: Unless specific mention is made of individual 1000 cc models, follow that given for the R100/7 Single plate dry clutch with diaphragm spring

Spring Thickness:

EAURS TROLS) Ms ae

ae

ee

< Oe

ee eee

R45 up to 1980, R60/6, R60/7, R65 up to 1980, R75, R80/7 All 900 cc models, all 1000 cc models up to 1980

...............

All other models

Pressure (fitted): [no [RISTO 8 io Mie ake te eae ean ey ei A ar ONCE OO MTROO R Mitt: ete MeR een oGr ld ds +,acute cots tran, elas deene FOUMmR ZO ROO/7, Rao and ROS Upito: 1980 y= a nc ce oie eee All 900 cc models All 1000 cc models up to 1980 All other models Height (relaxed): Fer SMG OLOMMEMT Ee fcstitb cg)oa ayia Shai aialtt sw avaceraom borne wawane oho 4 arene PAU OOM ILO MIOGU nincaieie ete eNO © bs vic ee sue Oe a eee ee R75/5, all /6 models, R60/7, R75/7, R80/7 All 1000 cc models up to 1980 All other models ‘May be fitted with stronger spring from larger capacity/later models

2.4 mm (0.0945 in) 2.6 mm (0.1024 in) 2.8 mm (0.1102 in) Not available (R100GS and 1987 on R100RS/RT are fitted with a thicker spring identified by a blue paint dot) 155 175 180 217 202 Not

17.0 14.7 18.5 17.1

- 165 kp - 200 kp - 220 kp - 236 kp - 220 kp available

-

18.0 15.7 19.5 17.7

(842 (386 (897 (478 (445

mm mm mm mm

-

364 441 485 520 485

(0.6693 (0.5787 (0.7283 (0.6732

Ibf) Ibf) Ibf) Ibf) Ibf)

-

0.7087 0.6181 0.7677 0.6969

in) in) in) in)

Not available

Clutch plate Diameter:

All /5, /6 and /7 models up to 1980 PRET MRGONUDILOMOSU) cfs vainyetsleeirats.s. aOMe ene Oe wg le Kee abe

PNA MMOUES UD tO 1OGOsnmisaieis

ial iy

made Germany in

6.6 Electronic ignition control unit terminals

Terminal 1 goes to terminal 1 on ignition HT coll Terminal 2 goes to terminal Terminal 3 goes to ignition Terminal 4 goes to terminal coil, then to switches Terminal 5 goes to ignition Terminal 6 goes to ignition Terminal 7 - not used

31 (frame earth) trigger 15 on ignition HT trigger + trigger 0

Ignition system the ignition and note the reading obtained, which should be at least 5 volts. If the correct reading is not obtained, the fault lies in either the control unit or in the trigger assembly and it will be necessary to obtain a milliammeter to trace the faulty component.

cannot be checked by the private owner, the elimination of the HT coils will indirectly prove its effectiveness. Checking the condition of the HT coils will require the use of a

8 When

essentially the same for both types of coil fitted to the BMW models described in this Manual. First disconnect the low tension leads

a

milliammeter

is

available,

disconnect the control unit connecting plug, withdraw terminal 5 from the plug and connect the plug again to the control unit so that terminal

5 only is disconnected,

then

connect the milliammeter between the detached end of the terminal 5 wire and terminal 4 of the control unit. Switch on the ignition and note the reading obtained. If a reading of 3 - 20 milliamps is obtained, the control unit is faulty and must be renewed but if the reading is more or less than 3 - 20 milliamps, it is the trigger assembly that is faulty and must be renewed. 9 If after conducting the above tests the fault has not been found, the problem lies in the

components

of the ignition system

as all

other possibilities will have been eliminated. The simplest method of checking these components is as follows. Remove the crankcase front cover which is secured by two Allen screws and disconnect the threepin plug which connects the _ trigger assembly to the control unit. Connect one end of a spare length of wire to the centre terminal of that half of the plug which leads to the control unit, then remove

the spark

plugs, connect each to its respective plug cap and lay the plugs on the cylinder heads so that the metal portion of the spark plug body is in firm contact with the cylinder head finning. Switch on the ignition and touch the bared end of the length of the wire briefly to

multimeter set to the relevant resistance scale, or of an ohmmeter. The procedure is

and the HT lead from the coil to be tested, then connect the meter across the two low tension lead spade terminals 15 and 1, noting

the reading obtained which should be within the limits given below. HT coil primary windings: Single coil 0.67 - 0.77 ohm Twin coil 1.15 - 1.32 ohm 11. To check the coil secondary windings, two slightly different methods are required. On those machines fitted with two individual HT coils, connect the meter between terminal 15 and the HT lead terminal, but on those machines fitted with a single twin coil,

connect the meter between the two HT lead terminals. The readings obtained should be as follows. HT coil secondary windings: Single coil 3.7 - 5.3 K ohm Twin coil 7.5 - 9.15 Kohm In the

case

of both

types

of coil,

if the

readings obtained for either the primary or the secondary windings differ appreciably from those given, the coil should be considered faulty and renewed, although it should be noted that if there is any doubt about the test results, the suspect coil should be taken to a

action of the trigger assembly. Sparks should

BMW dealer or to a competent autoelectrician for accurate testing on a spark-gap tester. 12 In the event that the coils are found to be

appear at the spark plug electrodes

in satisfactory condition, the control unit must

earth several times, thus simulating the each

time the wire is earthed. If this is the case, the control unit and coils are proven to be in good working order and the fault lies in the trigger assembly which must be renewed. 10 If, on conducting the above test, sparks do not appear at the spark plug electrodes, the fault must lie in the control unit itself or in the ignition HT coils. While the control unit

be considered faulty by simple virtue of the fact that all other possibilities will have been eliminated at this stage, assuming that the tests described above have been carried out with sufficient care. In view of the fact that the control unit is likely to be an expensive item, it is recommended that the complete machine is returned to a BMW dealer for accurate testing

to save unnecessary expense.

7

6¢5

Elimination of persistent preignition - general information (all R60 models)

1 This section applies to the owners of R60/5, R60/6 and R60/7 models sold in the UK, but

may well be of benefit to the owners of other BMW models. Some R60 machines have suffered from persistent pre-ignition pinking or knocking during acceleration, a problem that was not solved by any of the usual checks of the ignition timing or mixture strength, or by decarbonisation. 2 To counter this problem the factory introduces a few modifications although it must be stressed that these modifications should be made only on the machines described above, and that they should only be made when the problem persists after the ignition timing has been checked and found to be accurate, after the carburettors have been checked, and after

the combustion chambers and piston crowns have been cleaned of all carbon deposits. It should be noted, furthermore, that the factory

recommends the use only of premium grade fuel with an octane number of at least 98 (research method) in these machines and in all BMW models up to 1980 (US) and 1981 (UK). 3 The first modification is to fit a compression plate 0.7 mm (0.03 in) thick between each cylinder barrel and the crankcase, thus lowering the compression ratio from 9.2:1 to 8.6:1. These plates can be ordered under BMW Part number 11 11 1 335 650. To ensure an oil-tight seal when fitting them, smear both sides of each plate with a non-setting jointing compound such as Hylomar SQ32/M and fit

them

with

two

new

O-rings,

BMW

Part

number 11 11 1 262 141. 4 The above modification should cure most cases, but if the problem still persists the following have proved successful. First, set the ignition timing in exactly 6 degrees BTDC, no tolerance being permissible. Second, richen the mixture at 1/4 - 3/4 throttle openings by raising the jet needle, ie by fitting the needle clip in the lowest notch of the needle. Third, fit spark plugs with a thermal value of 200, ie Bosch W200T30/W6D, Champion N7Y, etc.

6°6 Ignition system

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Hydraulically damped, coil sprung, telescopic

208 mm (8.19 in) 200 mm (7.87 in) 175 mm (6.89 in) 135 mm (5.32 in) 225 mm (8.86 in)

38.425 41 mm 39.936 35.925

- 38.450 mm (1.5128 ~ 1.5138 in) (1.61 in) - 39.975 mm (1.5723 - 1.5738 in) - 35.950 mm (1.4144 - 1.4154 in)

38.500 - 38.539 mm (1.5158 - 1.5173 in) Not available 40.160 - 40.199 mm (1.5811 - 1.5826 in) 36.000 ~ 36.025 mm (1.4173 - 1.4183 in)

EN

7*2

Frame and front suspension

Front forks Stanchion/lower leg clearance:

R80 and RBORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT 1987 ON crete oseaty VANE oe PL oe eRe en yaar Mires) pair aver 0.050 - 0.114 mm (0.0020 - 0.0045 in) R80GS, R80R; RI00GS, RIDOR .. cine scar err rerr cnr ser eres Not applicable AUOther MOGGIS sea nr ro eee ete ie ete: rn ane ne Are 0.05 - 0.10 mm (0.0020 - 0.00339 in) Stanchion MNiaxXiIMUMI Walrad: pou reece cosets pcre a rae ce cele 0.10 mm (0.0039 in) Stanchion installed height (test length) - from top of stanchion to top machined surface of bottom yoke: [ByJ617 US40 1DE0 into wo ae gran saat Rei cl aac 160 mm (6.2992 in) /7 1981-84, R&0G/S; REORT 1983-84 co nea e ees creer nee 161 mm (6.3386 in) R45, ROS UD 1a 1985, REBLS,RSCBI) cae ciate wepieen eo vas von oe 190 mm (7.4803 in) R80 and RBORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT 1987. \On) Biaccrae a raae cates Ooloue rie rari tonne net eee canine a 162 mm (6.3779 in) R&0GS, RI00GS siio cindas tiem Gina's winals loa ane ae cee ee 180 mm (7.0866 in) SOR: AIOO Rie oaretacey anette suet nuit paral enete een aT Not applicable Damper piston OD:

[B,/Bs 7 UD tO O80 mala saiotn 2 stile meaeetta Miia erent: R80, RBORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS, R100RT 1987 0n .... RS0GS8, R80R. RID0GS:, RIOR

Alliothar mOdele. Ss cinaainiec Stanchion ID: R80 and R8ORT

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27.600 - 27.800 mm (1.0866 - 1.0945 in) 29.800 - 30.000 mm (1.1732 - 1.1811 in) Not available

27.530 - 27.700 mm (1.0839 - 1.0906 in)

1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT

1987 ON os calcanene Eine ed Sain eee Deore eee Ls Se eee R80G8; R80R) R100GS; RIOOR: secre tek eae sete te ore preted Allicthier modeler fez atad.n acter aantonier nin mite een nine Series ois

30.850 - 31.150 mm (1.2146 - 1.2264 in) Not available 27.850 - 28.150 mm (1.0965 - 1.1083 in)

Damper piston/stanchion clearance:

/5,:/8; [PUD TO BBO: aici te Ceeee eh ales ae Pred Per aoe recy R80 and R8ORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT JOST ON. cvtecor ear ae ato ear icin oir iy atstrreat trite rir aaaclots R80GB; RBORRIDOGS, PUOOR area nasal > oie cirss stele str rte + aiara aa Al Onerimedels ce wesw rouge cyan vrees esddeea tine o's we arialnusls

0.05 - 0.55 mm (0.0020 - 0.0217 in) 0.85 - 1.35 mm (0.0335 - 0.0532 in) Not available 0.15 - 0.62 mm (0.0059 - 0.0244 in)

Fork spring free length:

eee OB rd leaner vaneerahar esi rarMhcuca aeDyac RPNCATE ROR SPO tonsri CR PRN /5, /6, /7 up to 1980 - except those belIOW =... we ee eee eee ee

530 - 542 mm (20.8661 - 21.3385 in) 567 - 579 mm (22.3228 - 22.7952 in)

R100RS and R100RT up to 1980 - also any standard model fitted

with full fairing, twin front disc brakes or HD suspension ......... R46, BEB UD 10-1988; ROOLS, MSOBT saga i custite rs cele ies wc elems /7 1981-84, R&0G/S, RSORT 1983-84 coos cc rte ree rr er ce cre R80 and R8ORT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT TORSO anon at alien eerste cits cine tcc risiens Ganie meuniere cruete RB0GE RICOGE sass wots aihror eae cthchnar iat coins:

543 - 555 mm (21.3779 - 21.850 in) 490 - 502 mm (19.2913 - 19.7637 in) 539 - 551 mm (21.2204 - 21.6929 in)

RSOR, RIOD

Not available

ter

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472 - 484 mm (18.5826 - 19.0551 in) 445 - 450 mm (17.5197 - 17.7165 in)

‘May be fitted with stronger spring listed for later models Fork spring wire diameter:

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R80 and R80RT 1985 on, R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT (O87-On: Gece ais eco nem aired serial sinceco gerers haere FA80Q8,: RID0GS ci cure re pani ike sok rsisiers coh ih ih eee RBOR, RIDOR

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Not available 4.00 mm (0.1575 in)

4.30 mm (0.1693 in) 4.67 - 4.73 mm (0.1839 - 0.1862 in) Not available

4.25 mm (0.1678 in) At oil change - cc/ Imp fl oz/US fl oz

{8 [By ST AQT goad crenace's ainda oles lke tote) 4a eR ee ae ate JB, /63/7 UD IO ORO aay herent vain tiat ater abies oti ete /7 1081-84, RBOG/S, RBORT 1983-84: tiouecec esp em crew anne R46, R65 up to 1985, RSSLSPRS0ST 3 Vas vale rein ey eet eee nee RSOR; RIOOR: aga. ecccc nw pars birals a Sinaitt lois Rua ee eee R80G8, R100GS -right-hand'leg so i a.see rates eee rv we eee R80GS, R100GS = left-hand log .... 0s renee nnn e ver erareamevns

REO OSE On inoe | OSC On ine un ais thie RSORT 1985 on, RIOORS, RIGORT 1887 on

nnn tape meson aati. ct. sta ee aes

265/9.33/8.96 235/8.27/7.95 220/7.74/7.44 190/6.69/6.42 410/14.43/13.68 440 + 10/15.49 + 0.35/ 14.88 + 0.34 410 + 10/14.43 + 0.35/ 13.86 + 0.34 At oil change - cc/Imp fl oz/US fl oz 300 + 10/10.56 + 0.35/10.14 + 0.34 320 + 10/11.26 + 0.35/10.82 + 0.34

“Original recommended quantity, reduced to improve damping performance - use later recommendation

At rebuild - cc/ Imp fl oz/US fl oz 280/9.86/9.47 250/8.80/8.45 220-230/7.74-8.10/7.44-7.78 190-200/6.69-7.04/6.42-6.76 420/14.78/14.20 470 + 10/16.54 + 0.35/ 15.89 + 0.34 470 + 10/16.54 + 0.35/ 15.89 + 0.34

Frame and front suspension Fork oil level - forks fully extended: mT MME Co 2.5 RM ay ciiaieeO Fao

eivse) aio,$5)! Hie,3 0 s-Soe ayapp

7¢3

437 mm (17.2 in) maximum from top surface of fork top plug to top of oil

METRE HAUTE ISO tee! ava Stecene oleiotele ieleneraseheucreoe Monomers eles

Bosch 0.197.002.001 RS20/1 A1 A Bosch 0.197.002.003 D120 915 158 14V 20A

Voltage regulator Type: {5s /O(EXCept: BOOS) (Up ton Gi Sieermerar eee aeons eer ee ae R90S, /6 1974 on, /7 up to 1980, R45 and R65 up to 1980 ....... All MOdeISsNGB TON schersrcr (ol cadena ius ais Sutin Cun ekere i Suare ode No=load regulated Voltage Wy ara e seaeeatsters) syeve aise melee es feninyseus, Deo nes

Bosch 0.190.601.013 AD 1/14V Bosch 0.190.601.009 AD 1/14V Wehrle E1051 B/14V 13.55 - 14.25 volts

Regulated voltage under load - @ 5000 rpm: All'models upton GSOm or. tran tars eal ete wate cece co tere Allimodels: 1981 ONT aalewcs veiee cis sctes ws oe saeteisne arse aha comet

13.9 - 14.8 volts 13.5 - 14.2 volts

Bosch starter motor Type:

{536 UPTON OTA meee ser ann aera. eee se hee a ee hte ee IG: 19:75:01 ge custerie tes ees oes ren Ei rata ieee eee faycies ioecuees All OLDS IMOGEIS. coors cust ME wits)ar«ec ueus orcnr tie)sous aise eloumuet a me cnet Brushiminimum lengtht= seetextancccences ceet se ote miei cece Current strength: 5 fO: UPAOA OT: Aceemrafiercyte wetland wsieyotetaerars yoke Snae Arctener RNs roiie eee Alliother modelsp srk tec. Ham ores, 39 cee esol preneterchae arora oie EfefaninWieioletaaliniaUMvOW) on asccmansncouvesgcuncusmaneuemocss Commutatonundercut- sie sr uaer meron teicne ite cre Crete eon: cet ae Atmature axiallOae Pains ten oreie ope.ciareucrs te ovens oie lane Scio oR aS Starter relay: LD" Gor Re oecee ata Ree TOIT CRS eee eeece PCOS eRe Tel ere IB? os sinsat Syed ee RR ee Gan evelOrsatec a a Snes cechansicanu teem reese All othier MOdeIS saeeres.. escent en cecarater ater tenes noes, 4s e.aSerdca stare aimee

0.001.157.007 Not available 0.001.157.023

:

DF12V 0.5HP DF12V 0.6HP DF12V 0.7HP

11.5 mm (0.4528 in)

2I0A 320A 33.0 mm (1.2992 in) 0.5 mm (0.0197 in) 0.10 - 0.15 mm (0.0039 - 0.0059 in)

Stribel SR9570 Stribel type 1357104.3 SR9572 Bosch 0.332.014.118

Valeo starter motor TYPO: aah teas ah eaten ses coucirct asien DAR erat coepencBepene ye ae ae Brushistandard length =meastired)) Veer amcvceme mci iiieene wane

O6F 80091 D6RA 7 12V 1.1kw 14 mm (0.5512 in)

Turn signal relay | ee re re er eine. os memeome Lo nor) (6; SEU TOGO) a.ianc ccspescctsrchin cic) Secombe eect arora LD WOBA. ON 5 state; ie 0 elle dasseeapacetic care oe tes a eer R45 and R65 up to 1980, R80G/S, R80ST ................. DP ancgs Le R&80GS, RSOR TRO GS iE O0 Fy icaceres cael mene ie tee ae All-other models: 98 ion ie. racic een error eae en are ae

Hella 91 M2E2 x 21W-12V Hella TBB26 1 - 4 x 21W-12V Hella TBB53 DOT2 (4) x 21W + 0.5W-12V Bosch 0.335.200.043. 12V2 (4) x 21W 13-7W Combined flasher relay and self-cancelling unit - ID No. not available Wehrle 12V2 (4) x 21W 13-7W

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Component key - 1978 to 1980 R100RS and 1979 to 1980 R100RT

Starter button and emergency cutout (with indicator switch, ‘78 model)

Headlight: a) Flasher relay b) High beam ) Low beam ) Light relay ) Contact board with fuses Fog light relay (1979 models) ) Auxiliary driving light relay (1979 models) Ignition/light switch Dip, headlight flasher and horn switch (with indicator switch, ‘79 models)

Running light 6-pin connector Front RH indicator 2-pin connector

Voltmeter Clock Clutch switch Front LH indicator Left horn Right horn Front stoplight switch

16 Combined instrument: ) Speedometer light

Revolution counter light c) Brake fluid telltale d) Neutral indicator e) Battery charge indicator f) Oil pressure light g) Indicator repeater h) High beam telltale Rear stoplight switch Starter relay Ignition coils Spark plugs and caps Capacitor (1978 model) Contact breaker assembly Buzzer relay Starter motor Battery Alternator Regulator Diode board (rectifier) Single-pin connector 2-pin 6-pin Brake 2-pin

connector connector

fluid switch connector

Neutral switch Oil pressure switch Rear RH indicator Rear light: a) Rear and licence plate light b) Brake light Buzzer Rear LH indicator 3-pin connector Fog light Limit switch Fog light switch 3-pin connector Horn relay (1978 models) Auxiliary driving light Limit switch 3-pin connector Rear brake fluid switch Flying fuse Socket 2-pin connector Single-pin connector Diode Single-pin connector Relay

Component key - 1983 to 1984 R80RT and 1981 on R100, R100CS, R100RT, R100RS models Starter button and emergency cutout

Ww

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6-pin connector (R100RS, RT) Front RH indicator Voltmeter ONO

Clock Clutch switch Front LH indicator Left horn Right horn (R100RS, RT) Front stoplight switch Combined instrument: a) Speedometer light b) Revolution counter light c) High beam tell tale d) Neutral indicator e) Battery charge indicator f) Oil pressure light g) Indicator repeater 16 Rear stoplight switch Starter relay 18 Ignition coils

Spark plugs and caps Ignition trigger Starter motor Battery Alternator Regulator Diode board (rectifier) 6-pin connector Oil pressure switch Neutral switch Rear RH indicator Rear light: a) Rear and licence plate light b) Brake light Rear LH indicator Ignition control unit

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Reference Pimensions and:'Weights ew... oi. eee PI REFe1 MomemevvOrkshop Tips’ 2... REFe3 MMPI ACLOYS 2... ke ce we REFe21 Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants ........ REFe22 PSs MOCKS HL LR sa We an ees REFe23

rere

IOLA Omni CG eee a 2 Semen, ES meso RSs) PE ee See ne ee eae ae Rauliarincing EQUIDIMCH bes seewa means: uous Technical Terms Explained ................ GX tenement tr oa ae re ae ae ee es Te.

REFe27 REFe29 REFe38 REFe42 REF*46

~

\ee rie Rte reid er ic Ae 2100 R45 1981 on, R65 1981-85, R65LS ............. 2110 A80 and REORT.1985 ons 2.5 2. ee ae ee 2175 /6, /7 up to 1978, R45 and R65 up to 1980, R80ST . . .2180 {7 1979-84. 5 ec§ catia Viet ree re 2210 R80RT 1983-84 2.0.6 ici lees ee 2220 R80G/S ks fai fd. aes bts ee 2230 R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT 1987 0n ...... 2175 R80GS; RI00GS |-..Gieb.4) Soo: eee eee 2290 RSOR,RIOOR % fsies 0 o6 de kant, 2 Ce ee 2210

mm mm mm mm mm

(33.3 (33.9 (31.8 (33.5 (33.4 (31.5

in) in) in) in) in) in )

mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm

(82.7 (83.1 (85.6 (85.8 (87.0 (87.4 (87.8 (85.6 (90.2 (87.0

in) in) in) in) in) in) in) in) in) in)

Wheelbase - with rider weighing 165 Ib (75 kg) seated /5 up to mid-1973 (see Chapter 8)

.............. 1385 mm (64.5 in)

R45:andi R6Stipitom 980ree cia eerie 1390 R45 198 ions ROS 981-85) ROO miemeen ieeeee 1400 R80Siz R80 and: REORM SS 5ionmaeeaea es eee 1440 /5 mid-1973 on, /6, /7 up to 1984, R80G/S, R80RT 1983-842 2eeme ere rten n,.. epee tects ccc cas eee 1465 R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT 1987 0n ...... 1440 RSOReRTOOR, RSOGS sh OOGS aera 1513

mm (64.7 in) mm (65.1 in) mm (56.7 in) mm (57.7 in) mm (66.7 in) mm (59.6 in)

Ground clearance - with rider weighing 165 |b (75 kg) seated Ré4onRGESiUpitO 1985 sRESIES cee FT AOS TVSBS Ns tei ahs So eNN eae,chi RéClancd RESORT SS Stoners cies tee R80S7; R80RT; 1983-84 22 c...nuns [5 AGEAL UP tO"l 980) gee eis

R80G/S\s

eine oe erence 105 SME ac teas oe 115 meet 125 ee eee ela 130

mm mm mm mm

(4.1 (4.5 (4.9 (6.1

in) in) in) in)

cecereriese aeepene aries einen 165 mm (6.5 in)

v2 Nokia act een eens ceeene ate CR eee wearer re

R65 1986 on, R100RS and R100RT 1987 0n

R&80R; RiOORSRS0GSs Ri00GS

eee175 mm (6.9 in)

........ 125 mm (4.9 in)

maa ceeie aes 170 mm (6.7 in)

R80G/S (1981 model without electric starter) ........ 410 Ib (186 kg) RS80G/S: (withielectric: starter) eye elie rere nien ere 423 |b (192 kg)

aici Loi etbbemedttit reneratees cxaicha etree e Me route to oo R46* R50/5, RES upto d985e eet eee eee RES 198G:0N 6). 6 acs Selo cp crete wn, hee ete cache eae FROSLSY 92 ature tissencas rte earciaaney sic ee een ae R60/5, R60/6, R75/5, R75/6, R80, R9O/6 ........... R60/7, R75/7, R80/7, R9OS, R100/7, R100T .........

F100) Ai petseen ey eek Ore ee R100S,/R100CS = 6. eu, aw oe RIOORS up to 79S" bes tas. Feet: oe ee R100RT 1979-80, R8ORT 1983-84 .............00. RSORT 1085 On sess ctd-con+ ost eone 1 EDT eee eee RI00RT:1981-84 2. uence wesc ane oe een FLOOR, ngs Te Soo ead ae onthe ee R1OORS 1987 on vat crac ccc sedse ede e ee RtOORT 1987 oft ssi oN ce eee R80GS and R100GS 1988-90 ................0008. R80GS P-D and R100GS P-D 1988-90 ............. RE0GS1991' on. 2 2o i R100GS 1991 Ofte eo foe tae R80GS P-D and R100GS P-D 19910n ...........-.

436 452 452 456 463 474

481 485 507 516 500 478 525 481 505 516 463 535 474 485 520

Ib |b |b Ib |b lb

(198 (205 (205 (207 (210 (215

Ib (218 Ib (220 Ib (230 Ib (234 Ib (227 Ib (217 Ib (238 Ib (218 Ib (229 Ib (234 Ib (210 Ib (243 Ib (215 Ib (220 Ib (236

kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg)

kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg) kg)

Maximum permissible weight - total of machine, passenger(s) and luggage /5, /6,/7 up to 1980, R45, R65 up to 1985, R65LS,

RS80G/S; R8OS Deuce. eh ee ten aniston ae eee 877 |b (398 kg) /f 1981 on; R65 1986 0n; R80; RESORT 22.2). saan eee 970 Ib (440 kg) R80 RIOORTRSOGS Ril OOGS ee pvarcmene crete ene 926 Ib (420 kg)

Tools and Workshop Tips rere3 Buying tools

Warning: To avoid the risk of a

A toolkit is a fundamental requirement for servicing and repairing a motorcycle. Although there will be an initial expense in building up enough tools for servicing, this will soon be

offset by the savings made by doing the job yourself. As experience and confidence grow, additional tools can be added to enable the repair and overhaul of the motorcycle. Many of the specialist tools are expensive and not often used so it may be preferable to hire them, or for a group of friends or motorcycle club to join in the purchase. As arule, it is better to buy more expensive, good quality tools. Cheaper tools are likely to wear out faster and need to be renewed more often, nullifying the original saving.

VAN

poor quality tool breaking in use, causing injury or damage to the

component being worked on, always aim to purchase tools which meet the relevant national safety standards.

The following lists of tools do not represent the manufacturer’s service tools, but serve as a guide to help the owner decide which tools are needed for this level of work. In addition, items such as an electric drill, hacksaw, files, hammers, soldering iron and a workbench equipped with a vice, may be needed. Although not classed as tools, a selection of bolts, screws, nuts, washers and pieces of tubing always come in useful. For more information about tools, refer to

the Haynes Motorcycle Manual (Bk. No. 1454).

Workshop

Practice

Manufacturer’s service tools Inevitably certain tasks require the use of a service tool. Where possible an alternative tool or method of approach is recommended, but sometimes there is no option if personal injury or damage to the component is to be avoided. Where required, service tools are referred to in the relevant procedure. Service tools can usually only be purchased from a motorcycle dealer and are identified by a part number. Some of the commonly-used tools, such as rotor pullers, are available in aftermarket form from mail-order motorcycle tool and accessory suppliers.

Maintenance and minor repair tools 6

1 Set of flat-bladed screwdrivers 2 Set of Phillips head screwdrivers 3 Combination open-end & ring spanners 4 Socket set (3/8 inch or 1/2 inch drive) 5 Set of Allen keys or bits

6 7

Setof Torx keys orbits Pliers and self-locking grips (Mole grips) 8 Adjustable spanner 9 C-spanner (ideally adjustable type) 10 Tyre pressure gauge (A) & tread depth gauge (B)

11

11 Cable pressure oiler 12 Feeler gauges 13 Spark plug gap measuring and adjusting tool 14 Spark plug spanner (A) or deep plug socket (B) 15 Wire brush and emery paper

16 Funnel and measuring vessel 17 Strap wrench, chain wrench or oil filter removal tool 18 Oil drainer can or tray 19 Pump type oil can 20 Grease gun

21 22 23 24 25

Steel rule (A) and straight-edge (B) Continuity tester Battery charger Hydrometer (for battery specific gravity check) Anti-freeze tester (for liquid-cooled engines)

rerea TOOIS and Workshop Tips Repair and overhaul tools

1 Torque wrench (small and mid-ranges) 2 Conventional, plastic or

soft-faced hammers 3 Impact driver set

4 Vernier gauge 5 Circlip pliers (internal and external, or combination)

6 Set of punches and cold chisels

7 Selection of pullers 8 Breaker bars (A) and length of tubing (B)

10 Wire crimper tool 11 Multimeter (measures amps, volts andohms)

13 Hose clamp (wingnut type shown) 14

Magnetic arm

9 Chain breaking/ riveting tool

12 Stroboscope (for dynamic timing checks)

(telescopic type shown) 15 One-man brake/clutch bleeder kit

7 Plastigauge kit 8 Valve spring compressor (4-stroke engines) 9 Piston pin drawbolt tool

10 Piston ring removaland installation tool 11 Piston ring clamp 12 Cylinder bore hone (stone type shown)

13 Stud extractor 14 Screw extractor set 15 Bearing driver set

Specialist tools

|

PS)

1 Micrometer (external type) 2 Telescoping gauges or small-hole gauges 3 Dial gauge

ee

4 Cylinder compression gauge 5 Vacuum gauges (shown) or manometer 6 Oil pressure gauge

Tools and Workshop Tips peres 1

@ Use proprietary engine degreasers or solvents which have a high flash-point, such

Workshop equipment and facilities

as paraffin (kerosene),

for cleaning

off oil,

grease and dirt - never use petrol (gasoline) for

cleaning. Wear rubber gloves when handling solvent and engine degreaser. The fumes from certain solvents can be dangerous - always work in a well-ventilated area.

The workbench @ Work is made much easier by raising the bike up on a ramp - components are much more accessible if raised to waist level. The hydraulic or pneumatic types seen in the dealer’s workshop are a sound investment if you undertake a lot of repairs or overhauls (see illustration 1.1).

Dust, eye and hand protection 1.3 This auxiliary stand attaches to the swingarm pivot

@ Protect your lungs from inhalation of dust particles by wearing a filtering mask over the nose and mouth. Many frictional materials still contain asbestos which is dangerous to your health. Protect your eyes from spouts of liquid and _ sprung components by wearing a pair of protective

goggles (see illustration 1.6).

1.1 Hydraulic motorcycle ramp @

If raised off ground level, the bike must be

supported on the ramp to avoid it falling. Most ramps incorporate a front wheel locating clamp which can be adjusted to suit different diameter wheels. When tightening the clamp, take care not to mark the wheel rim or damage the tyre - use wood blocks on each side to prevent this. @ Secure the bike to the ramp using tiedowns (see illustration 1.2). If the bike has only a sidestand, and hence leans at a dangerous angle when raised, support the bike on an auxiliary stand.

1.4 Always use a block of wood between the engine and jack head when supporting the engine in this way

Fumes and fire @ Refer to the Safety first! page at the beginning of the manual for full details. Make sure your workshop is equipped with a fire extinguisher suitable for fuel-related fires (Class B fire - flammable liquids) - it is not

sufficient to have a water-filled extinguisher. @ Always ensure adequate ventilation is available. Unless an exhaust gas extraction system is available for use, ensure that the engine is run outside of the workshop. @ If working on the fuel system, make sure the workshop is ventilated to avoid a build-up of fumes. This applies equally to fume buildup when charging a battery. Do not smoke or allow anyone else to smoke in the workshop.

Fluids @ If you need to drain fuel from the tank, store it in an approved container marked as suitable for the storage of petrol (gasoline) (see illustration 1.5). Do not store fuel in glass jars or bottles.

1.6 A fire extinguisher, goggles, mask and protective gloves should be at hand in the workshop

@ Protect your hands from contact with solvents, fuel and oils by wearing rubber gloves. Alternatively apply a barrier cream to your hands before starting work. If handling hot components or fluids, wear suitable gloves to protect your hands from scalding and burns.

What to do with old fluids @ Old cleaning solvent, fuel, coolant and oils should not be poured down domestic drains or onto the ground. Package the fluid up in old oil containers, label it accordingly, and take it to a garage or disposal facility. Contact your local authority for location of such sites or ring the oil care hotline. Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your

1.2 Tie-downs are used around the passenger footrests to secure the bike

@ Auxiliary (paddock) stands are widely available from mail order companies or motorcycle dealers and attach either to the wheel axle or swingarm pivot (see illustration 1.3). If the motorcycle has a centrestand, you

local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

can support it under the crankcase to prevent

it toppling whilst either wheel is removed (see illustration 1.4).

1.5 Use an approved can only for storing petrol (gasoline)

In the USA, note that any oil supplier must accept used oil for recycling.

reres TOOIS and Workshop Tips 2

@ Self-locking nuts either have a nylon insert, or two spring metal tabs, or a shoulder which is staked into a groove in the shaft their advantage over conventional plain nuts is a resistance to loosening due to vibration. The nylon insert type can be used a number of

Fasteners screws, bolts and nuts

Fastener types and applications

times, but must be renewed when the friction

Bolts and screws @ Fastener head hexagonal, Torx or internal and external (see illustrations 2.1

types are either of splined design, with versions of each type and 2.2); splined head

fasteners

in

are

not

common

use

on

motorcycles. The conventional slotted or Phillips head design is used for certain screws. Bolt or screw length is always measured from the underside of the head to the end of the item (see illustration 2.11).

spring washer (C) and serrated washer (D)

@ The split-ring spring washer works by applying axial tension between the fastener head and component. If flattened, it is fatigued and must be renewed. If a plain (flat) washer is used on the fastener, position the

spring washer between the fastener and the plain washer. @ Serrated star type washers dig into the fastener and component faces, preventing loosening. They are often used on electrical earth (ground) connections to the frame. @ Cone type washers (sometimes called

Belleville) are conical

and when

of the nylon insert is reduced, ie when the nut spins freely on the shaft. The spring tab type can be reused unless the tabs are damaged. The shouldered type must be renewed every time it is disturbed. @ Split pins (cotter pins) are used to lock a castellated nut to a shaft or to prevent slackening of a plain nut. Common applications are wheel axles and brake torque arms. Because the split pin arms are deformed to lock around the nut a new split pin must always be used on installation - always fit the correct size split pin which will fit snugly in the shaft hole. Make sure the split pin arms are correctly located around the nut (see illustrations 2.5 and 2.6).

tightened

apply axial tension between the fastener head and component. They must be installed with the dished side against the component and

2.1

Internal hexagon/Allen (A), Torx (B) and splined (C) fasteners, with corresponding bits

often carry an OUTSIDE marking on their outer face. If flattened, they are fatigued and must be renewed. @ Tab washers are used to lock plain nuts or bolts on a shaft. A portion of the tab washer is bent up hard against one flat of the nut or bolt to prevent it loosening. Due to the tab washer being deformed in use, a new tab washer should be used every time it is disturbed. @

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2.5 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as shown (arrows) to secure a castellated nut

up

light

springing and prevent excessive side-to-side play of a component. Can be found on rocker

arm shafts.

Nuts and split pins

2.2 External Torx (A), splined (B) and hexagon (C) fasteners, with corresponding sockets

@ Conventional plain nuts are sided (see illustration 2.4). They thread diameter and pitch. High carry a number on one end to tensile strength.

usually sixare sized by tensile nuts denote their

@ Certain fasteners on the motorcycle have a tensile marking on their heads, the higher the marking the stronger the fastener. High tensile fasteners generally carry a 10 or higher marking. Never replace a high tensile fastener with one of a lower tensile strength.

2.6 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as shown to secure a plain nut

Caution: If the castellated nut slots do not align with the shaft hole after tightening to the torque setting, tighten the nut until the next slot aligns with the hole - never slacken the nut to align its slot.

Washers (see illustration 2.3) @ Plain washers are used between a fastener head and a component to prevent damage to the component or to spread the load when torque is applied. Plain washers can also be used as spacers or shims in certain assemblies. Copper or aluminium plain washers are often used as sealing washers on drain plugs.

2.4 Plain nut (A), shouldered locknut (B), nylon insert nut (C) and castellated nut (D)

@ R-pins (shaped like the letter R), or slip pins as they are sometimes called, are sprung and can be reused if they are otherwise in good condition. Always install R-pins with their closed end facing forwards (see illustration 2.7).

Tools and Workshop Tips _ perez

2.7 Correct fitting of R-pin. Arrow indicates forward direction

@ Circlips (sometimes called snap-rings) are used to retain components on a shaft or in a housing and have corresponding external or internal ears to permit removal. Parallel-sided (machined) circlips can be installed either way round in their groove, whereas stamped circlips (which have a chamfered edge on one face) must be installed with the chamfer facing away from the direction of thrust load (see illustration 2.9).

to measure pitch

2.10 Align circlip opening with shaft channel

Circlips (see illustration 2.8)

@ Circlips can wear due to the thrust of components and become loose in their grooves, with the subsequent danger of becoming dislodged in operation. For this reason, renewal is advised every time a circlip is disturbed. @ Wire circlips are commonly used as piston pin retaining clips. If a removal tang is provided, long-nosed pliers can be used to dislodge them, otherwise careful use of a small flat-bladed screwdriver is necessary. Wire circlips should be renewed every time they are disturbed.

Thread diameter and pitch @

@ 2.8 External stamped circlip (A), internal stamped circlip (B), machined circlip (C) and wire circlip (D)

@ Always use circlip pliers to remove and install circlips; expand or compress them just enough to remove

them.

After installation,

rotate the circlip in its groove to ensure it is securely seated. If installing a circlip on a splined shaft, always align its opening with a

shaft channel to ensure the circlip ends are well supported and unlikely to catch (see illustration 2.10).

THRUST LOAD

Diameter of a male thread (screw, bolt or

stud) is the outside diameter of the threaded portion (see illustration 2.11). Most motorcycle manufacturers use the ISO (International Standards Organisation) metric system expressed in millimetres, eg M6 refers

to a6 mm diameter thread. Sizing is the same for nuts, except that the thread diameter is measured across the valleys of the nut. @ Pitch is the distance between the peaks of the thread (see illustration 2.11). It is expressed in millimetres, thus a common bolt size may be expressed as 6.0 x 1.0 mm (6 mm thread diameter and 1 mm pitch). Generally pitch increases in proportion to thread diameter, although there are always exceptions. @ Thread diameter and pitch are related for conventional fastener applications and the following table can be used as a guide. Additionally, the AF (Across Flats), spanner or

socket size dimension of the bolt or nut (see illustration 2.11) is linked to thread and pitch specification. Thread pitch can be measured with a thread gauge (see illustration 2.12).

AF size 8mm 8mm

Thread diameter x pitch (mm) M5 x 0.8 M6 x 1.0

10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm

M6x 1.0 M8x 1.25 M10x 1.25

Mi12x 1.25

@ The threads of most fasteners are of the right-hand type, ie they are turned clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen. The reverse situation applies to left-hand thread fasteners, which are turned anti-clockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen. Left-hand threads are used where rotation of a component might loosen a conventional righthand thread fastener.

Seized fasteners @ Corrosion of external fasteners due to water or reaction between two dissimilar metals can occur over a period of time. It will build up sooner in wet conditions or in countries where salt is used on the roads during the winter. If a fastener is severely corroded it is likely that normal methods of removal will fail and result in its head being ruined. When you attempt removal, the fastener thread should be heard to crack free and unscrew easily - if it doesn’t, stop there before damaging something. @ A smart tap on the head of the fastener will often succeed in breaking free corrosion which has occurred in the threads (see illustration 2.13). @® An aerosol penetrating fluid (such as WD-40) applied the night beforehand may work its way down into the thread and ease removal. Depending on the location, you may be able to make up a Plasticine well around the fastener

head and fill it with penetrating fluid.

>

THRUST WASHER

ual

Nap

SHARP EDGE H29156

CHAMFERED EDGE

2.9 Correct fitting of a stamped circlip

2.11 Fastener length (L), thread diameter (D), thread pitch (P) and head size (AF)

adv

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a

a

e

2.13 A sharp tap on the head of a fastener will often break free a corroded thread

reFes TOOIS and Workshop Tips @ lf you are working on an engine internal component, corrosion will most likely not be a problem due to the well lubricated environment.

However,

components

can be

very tight and an impact driver is a useful tool in freeing them (see illustration 2.14).

2.16

Using

a hammer and chisel

to free a seized fastener

Broken fasteners and damaged heads 2.14 Using an impact driver to free a fastener @ Where corrosion has occurred between dissimilar metals (eg steel and aluminium alloy), the application of heat to the fastener head will create a disproportionate expansion rate between the two metals and break the seizure caused by the corrosion. Whether heat can be applied depends on the location of the fastener - any surrounding components likely to be damaged must first be removed (see illustration 2.15). Heat can be applied using a paint stripper heat gun or clothes iron, or by immersing the component in boiling water - wear protective gloves to prevent scalding or burns to the hands.

@ lf the shank of a broken bolt or screw is accessible you can grip it with self-locking grips. The knurled wheel type stud extractor tool or self-gripping stud puller tool is particularly useful for removing the long studs which screw into the cylinder mouth surface of the crankcase or bolts and screws from which the head has broken off (see illustration 2.17). Studs can also be removed by locking two nuts together on the threaded end of the stud and using a spanner on the

approximately half to three-quarters the diameter of the fastener and drill to a depth which will accommodate the extractor. Use the largest size extractor possible, but avoid leaving too small a wall thickness otherwise the extractor will merely force the fastener walls outwards wedging it in the casing thread. @ |f aspiral type extractor is used, thread it anti-clockwise into the fastener. As it is screwed in, it will grip the fastener and unscrew

it from the casing (see illustration 2.20).

lower nut (see illustration 2.18).

—e 2.17

aes

2.19 When using a screw extractor, first drill a hole in the fastener...

|

Using a stud extractor tool to remove a broken crankcase stud

2.20 ... then thread the extractor anti-clockwise into the fastener

@ lfataper type extractor is used, tap it into the fastener so that it is firmly wedged in place. Unscrew the extractor (anti-clockwise) to draw the fastener out. Warning: Stud extractors are

a

2.15 Using heat to free a seized fastener

A

the fastener if care is not taken ask an engineer about spark erosion if this happens.

@ As a last resort, it is possible to use a hammer and cold chisel to work the fastener head unscrewed (see illustration 2.16). This will

damage

the

fastener,

but

more

importantly extreme care must be taken not to damage the surrounding component. Caution: Remember that the component being secured is generally of more value than the bolt, nut or screw - when the fastener is freed, do not unscrew it with force, instead work the fastener back and forth when resistance is felt to prevent thread damage.

very hard and may break off in

2.18 Two nuts can be locked together to

unscrew a Stud from a component @ A bolt or screw which has broken off below or level with the casing must be extracted using a screw extractor set. Centre punch the fastener to centralise the drill bit,

then drill a hole in the fastener (see illustration 2.19). Select a drill bit which is

@ Alternatively, the broken bolt/screw can be drilled out and the hole retapped for an oversize bolt/screw or a diamond-section thread insert. It is essential that the drilling is carried out squarely and to the correct depth, otherwise the casing may be ruined - if in doubt, entrust the work to an engineer. @ Bolts and nuts with rounded corners cause the correct size spanner or socket to slip when force is applied. Of the types of spanner/socket available always use a six-point type rather than an eight or twelve-point type - better grip

Tools and Workshop Tips reres

2.21 Comparison of surface drive ring spanner (left) with 12-point type (right) is obtained. Surface drive spanners grip the middle of the hex flats, rather than the corners, and are thus good in cases of damaged heads (see illustration 2.21). @ Slotted-head or Phillips-head screws are often damaged by the use of the wrong size screwdriver. Allen-head and _ Torx-head screws are much less likely to sustain damage. If enough of the screw head is exposed you can use a hacksaw to cut a slot in its head and then use a conventional flatbladed screwdriver to remove it. Alternatively use a hammer and cold chisel to tap the head of the fastener round to slacken it. Always replace damaged fasteners with new ones, preferably Torx or Allen-head type.

2.26 To install a thread insert, first drill out

2.23 A thread repair tool being used to

the original thread...

correct an external thread

chasers are available for spark plug hole threads. The tool will not cut a new thread, but clean and true the original thread. Make sure that you use the correct diameter and pitch tool. Similarly, external threads can be cleaned up with a die or a thread restorer file (see illustration 2.24).

ad

* 2 a ar?

2.24 Using a thread restorer file

A dab between

of valve grinding

compound

the screw head and screw-

driver tip will often give a good grip.

Thread repair @ Threads (particularly those in aluminium alloy components) can be damaged by overtightening, being assembled with dirt in the threads, or from a component working loose and vibrating. Eventually the thread will fail completely, and it will be impossible to

tighten the fastener. @ lfathread is damaged or clogged with old locking compound it can be renovated with a thread repair tool (thread chaser) (see illustrations 2.22 and 2.23); special thread

2.28 ... fit insert on the installing tool...

@ tis possible to drill out the old thread and retap the component to the next thread size. This will work where there is enough surrounding material and a new bolt or screw can be obtained. Sometimes, however, this is not possible - such as where the bolt/screw passes through another component which must also be suitably modified, also in cases where a spark plug or oil drain plug cannot be

obtained in a larger diameter thread size. @ The diamond-section thread insert (often known by its popular trade name of Heli-Coil) is a simple and effective method of renewing the thread and retaining the original size. A kit can be purchased which contains the tap, insert and installing tool (see illustration 2.25). Drill out the damaged thread with the size drill specified (see illustration 2.26). Carefully retap the thread (see illustration 2.27). Install the 2.30 ... break off the tang when complete

2.22 A thread repair tool being used to correct an internal thread

2.25 Obtain a thread insert kit to suit the thread diameter and pitch required

insert on the installing tool and thread it slowly into place using a light downward pressure (see illustrations 2.28 and 2.29). When positioned between a 1/4 and 1/2 turn below the surface withdraw the installing tool and use the break-off tool to press down on the tang, breaking it off (see illustration 2.30). @ There are epoxy thread repair kits on the market which can rebuild stripped internal threads, although this repair should not be used on high load-bearing components.

reFe10 TOOIS and Workshop Tips Thread locking and sealing compounds @ Locking compounds are used in locations where the fastener is prone to loosening due to vibration or on important safety-related items which might cause loss of control of the motorcycle if they fail. It is also used where important fasteners cannot be secured by other means such as lockwashers or split pins. @ Before applying locking compound, make sure that the threads (internal and external) are clean and dry with all old compound removed. Select a compound to suit the component being secured - a non-permanent general locking and sealing type is suitable for most applications, but a high strength type is needed for permanent fixing of studs in castings. Apply a drop or two of the compound to the first few threads of the fastener, then thread it into place

and tighten to the specified torque. Do not apply excessive thread locking compound otherwise the thread may be damaged on subsequent removal. @ Certain fasteners are impregnated with a

dry film type coating of locking compound on their threads. Always renew this type of fastener if disturbed. @ Anti-seize compounds, such as copperbased greases, can be applied to protect threads from seizure due to extreme heat and corrosion. A common instance is spark plug threads and exhaust system fasteners.

3

Measuring tools and gauges

Feeler gauges

@ When measuring a clearance, select a gauge which is a light sliding fit between the two components. You may need to use two gauges together to measure the clearance accurately.

Micrometers @ A micrometer is a precision tool capable of measuring to 0.01 or 0.001 of a millimetre. It should always be stored in its case and not in the general toolbox. It must be kept clean and never dropped,

otherwise

its frame

or

measuring anvils could be distorted resulting in inaccurate readings. @ External micrometers are used for measuring outside diameters of components and have many more applications than internal micrometers. Micrometers are available in different size ranges,

eg 0 to 25 mm,

25 to

50 mm, and upwards in 25 mm steps; some large micrometers have interchangeable anvils to allow a range of measurements to be taken. Generally the largest precision measurement you are likely to take on a motorcycle is the piston diameter. @ Internal micrometers (or bore micrometers) are used for measuring inside diameters, such

as valve guides and cylinder bores. Telescoping gauges and small hole gauges are used in conjunction with an external micrometer, whereas

the more

expensive

pager

3.2 Check micrometer calibration

internal

micrometers have their own measuring device. External micrometer Note: The conventional analogue type instrument is described. Although much easier to read, digital micrometers are considerably more expensive. @ Always check the calibration of the micrometer before use. With the anvils closed (0 to 25 mm type) or set over a test gauge (for

before use

the larger types) the scale should read zero (see illustration 3.2); make sure that the anvils (and test piece) are clean first. Any discrepancy

can be adjusted by referring to the instructions supplied with the tool. Remember that the micrometer is a precision measuring tool don’t force the anvils closed, use the ratchet (4) on the end of the micrometer to close it. In this way, a measured force is always applied. @ To use, first make sure that the item being measured is clean. Place the anvil of the micrometer (1) against the item and use the thimble (2) to bring the spindle (8) lightly into contact with the other side of the item (see illustration 3.3). Don’t tighten the thimble down because this will damage the micrometer - instead use the ratchet (4) on the end of the micrometer. The ratchet mechanism applies a measured force preventing damage to the instrument. @ The micrometer is read by referring to the linear scale on the sleeve and the annular scale on the thimble. Read off the sleeve first to obtain the base measurement, then add the

fine measurement from the thimble to obtain the overall reading. The linear scale on the sleeve represents the measuring range of the micrometer (eg 0 to 25 mm). The annular scale

@ Feeler gauges (or blades) are used for measuring small gaps and clearances (see illustration 3.1). They can also be used to measure endfloat (sideplay) of a component on a shaft where access is not possible with a dial gauge. @ Feeler gauge sets should be treated with care and not bent or damaged. They are etched with their size on one face. Keep them clean and very lightly oiled to prevent corrosion build-up.

3.1

3.3 Micrometer component parts

Feeler gauges are used for measuring

small gaps and clearances - thickness is marked on one face of gauge

1. Anvil

3

Spindle

2

4

Ratchet

Thimble

5 6

Frame Locking lever

Tools and Workshop Tips. rere11 on the thimble will be in graduations of 0.01 mm (or as marked on the frame) - one full revolution of the thimble will move 0.5 mm on the linear scale. Take the reading where the datum line on the sleeve intersects the thimble’s scale. Always position the eye directly above the scale otherwise an inaccurate reading will result. In the example shown the item measures 2.95 mm (see illustration 3.4): Linear scale Linear scale Annular scale

2.00 mm 0.50 mm 0.45 mm

Total figure

2.95 mm

3.9 Expand the small hole gauge in the bore, lock its position...

3.5 Micrometer reading of 46.99 mm on linear and annular scales...

3.10

3.4 Micrometer reading of 2.95 mm Most micrometers have a locking lever (6) on

the the @ on

frame to hold the setting in place, allowing item to be removed from the micrometer. Some micrometers have a vernier scale their sleeve, providing an even finer

measurement

to

be

taken,

in

0.001

increments of a millimetre. Take the sleeve and thimble measurement as described above, then check which graduation on the vernier scale aligns with that of the annular scale on the thimble Note: The eye must be perpendicular to the scale when taking the vernier reading - if necessary rotate the body of the micrometer to ensure this. Multiply the vernier scale figure by 0.001 and add it to the base and fine measurement figures.

3.6 ...and 0.004 mm

on vernier scale

@ Telescoping gauges can be used to measure internal diameters of components. Select a gauge with the correct size range, make sure its ends are clean and insert it into the bore. Expand the gauge, then lock its position and withdraw it from the bore (see illustration 3.7). Measure across the gauge ends with a micrometer (see illustration 3.8).

46.000 00.500 00.490 00.004 46.994

mm mm mm mm mm

Vernier caliper

are easier to read, but are far more expensive.

@

The vernier caliper does not provide the

precision of a micrometer,

3.7 Expand the telescoping gauge in the bore, lock its position...

Internal micrometer @ Internal micrometers are available for measuring bore diameters, but are expensive and unlikely to be available for home use. It is suggested that a set of telescoping gauges and small hole gauges, both of which must be used with an external micrometer, will suffice for taking internal measurements on a motorcycle.

@ Very small diameter bores (such as valve guides) are measured with a small hole gauge. Once adjusted to a slip-fit inside the component, its position is locked and the gauge withdrawn for measurement with a micrometer (see illustrations 3.9 and 3.10).

Note: The conventional linear and dial gauge type instruments are described. Digital types

In the example shown the item measures 46.994 mm (see illustrations 3.5 and 3.6):

Linear scale (base) Linear scale (base) Annular scale (fine) Vernier scale Total figure

... then measure the gauge with a micrometer

whole

3.8 ... then measure the gauge with a micrometer

but is versatile in

being able to measure internal and external diameters. Some types also incorporate a depth gauge. It is ideal for measuring clutch plate friction material and spring free lengths. @ To use the conventional linear scale vernier, slacken off the vernier clamp screws (1) and set its jaws over (2), or inside (3), the item to be measured (see illustration 3.11). Slide the jaw into contact, using the thumbwheel (4) for fine movement of the sliding scale (5) then tighten the clamp screws (1). Read off the main scale (6) where the zero on the sliding scale (5) intersects it, taking the number

to the left of the zero;

this

provides the base measurement. View along the sliding scale and select the division which lines up exactly with any of the divisions on the main scale, noting that the divisions usually represents 0.02 of a millimetre. Add this fine measurement to the base measurement to obtain the total reading.

reFei2 TOOIS and Workshop Tips Plastigauge @ Plastigauge is a plastic material which can be compressed between two surfaces to measure the oil clearance between them. The width of the compressed Plastigauge is measured against a calibrated scale to determine the clearance.

@ Common uses of Plastigauge are for measuring the clearance between crankshaft

3.11 1 2

Clamp screws External jaws

Vernier component parts (linear gauge) 3 4

5 6

Internal jaws Thumbwheel

In the example shown the item measures 55.92 mm (see illustration 3.12): Base measurement Fine measurement

55.00 mm 00.92 mm

Total figure

55.92 mm

@

Sliding scale Main scale

7 Depth gauge

journal and main bearing inserts, between crankshaft journal and big-end bearing inserts, and between camshaft and bearing surfaces. The following example describes big-end oil clearance measurement. @ Handle the Plastigauge material carefully to prevent distortion. Using a sharp knife, cut a length which corresponds with the width of the bearing being measured and place it carefully across the journal so that it is parallel with the shaft (see illustration 3.15). Carefully install both bearing shells and the connecting rod. Without rotating the rod on the journal tighten its bolts or nuts (as applicable) to the specified torque. The connecting rod and bearings are then disassembled and the crushed Plastigauge examined.

Some vernier calipers are equipped with a

dial gauge for fine measurement. Before use, check that the jaws are clean, then close them

fully and check that the dial gauge reads zero. If necessary adjust the gauge ring accordingly. Slacken the vernier clamp screw (1) and set its jaws over (2), or inside (8), the item to be measured (see illustration 3.13). Slide the jaws into contact, using the thumbwheel (4) for fine movement. Read off the main scale (5) where the edge of the sliding scale (6) intersects it, taking,the whole number to the

left of the zero; this provides the base measurement. Read off the needle position on the dial gauge (7) scale to provide the fine measurement; each division represents 0.05 of a millimetre. Add this fine measurement to the base measurement to obtain the total reading. In the example shown the item measures 55.95 mm (see illustration 3.14): Base measurement Fine measurement

55.00 mm 00.95 mm

Total figure

55.95 mm

Pi

0 05mm

F

across shaft journal

@ Using the scale provided in the Plastigauge kit, measure the width of the material to determine the oil clearance (see illustration 3.16). Always remove all traces of Plastigauge after use using your fingernails. Caution: Arriving at the correct clearance demands

that

the assembly

is torqued

correctly, according to the settings and sequence (where applicable) provided by the motorcycle manufacturer.

= S md re ~

3.13 Vernier component parts (dial gauge) 1 Clamp screw 2 External jaws 3 Internal jaws 4 Thumbwheel

5 Main scale 6 Sliding scale 7 Dial gauge 3.14 Vernier gauge reading of 55.95 mm

3.16 Measuring the width of the crushed Plastigauge

Tools and Workshop Tips rerei3 Dial gauge or DTI (Dial Test Indicator) @ A dial gauge can be used to accurately measure small amounts of movement. Typical uses are measuring shaft runout or shaft endfloat (sideplay) and setting piston position for ignition timing on two-strokes. A dial gauge set usually comes with a range of different probes and adapters and mounting equipment. @ The gauge needle must point to zero when at rest. Rotate the ring around its periphery to zero the gauge. @ Check that the gauge is capable of reading the extent of movement in the work. Most gauges have a small dial set in the face which records whole millimetres of movement as well as the fine scale around the face periphery which is calibrated in 0.01 mm divisions. Read off the small dial first to obtain the base

maximum gauge reading as the amount of runout in the shaft. Note: The reading obtained will be total runout at that point some manufacturers specify that the runout figure is halved to compare with their specified runout limit. @® Endfloat (sideplay) measurement requires that the gauge is mounted securely to the surrounding component with its probe touching the end of the shaft. Using hand pressure, push and pull on the shaft noting the maximum endfloat recorded on the gauge (see illustration 3.19).

Fault Finding Equipment. The gauge will hold the reading until manually released.

Oil pressure gauge @ An oil pressure gauge is used for measuring engine oil pressure. Most gauges come with a set of adapters to fit the thread of the take-off point (see illustration 3.21). If the take-off point specified by the motorcycle manufacturer is an external oil pipe union, make sure that the specified replacement union is used to prevent oil starvation.

measurement, then add the measurement from

the fine scale to obtain the total reading. In the example

shown

the gauge

reads

1.48 mm (see illustration 3.17): Base measurement Fine measurement

1.00 mm 0.48 mm

3.19 Using a dial gauge to measure

Total figure

1.48 mm

shaft endfloat @ A dial gauge with suitable adapters can be used to determine piston position BTDC on two-stroke engines for the purposes of ignition timing. The gauge, adapter and suitable length probe are installed in the place of the spark plug and the gauge zeroed at TDC. If the piston position is specified as 1.14 mm BTDC,

001mm

© | STOCK N

% | 601-647

rotate the engine back to 2.00 mm

BTDC, then

slowly forwards to 1.14 mm BTDC.

Cylinder compression gauges

@ lf measuring shaft runout, the shaft must be supported in vee-blocks and the gauge mounted on a stand perpendicular to the shaft. Rest the tip of the gauge against the centre of the shaft and rotate the shaft slowly

whilst

watching

the

gauge

reading

(see

illustration 3.18). Take several measurements along the iength of the shaft and record the

@ A compression gauge is used for measuring cylinder compression. Either the rubber-cone type or the threaded adapter type can be used. The latter is preferred to ensure a perfect seal against the cylinder head. A 0 to 300 psi (0 to 20 Bar) type gauge (for petrol/gasoline engines) will be suitable for motorcycles. @ The spark plug is removed and the gauge either held hard against the cylinder head (cone type) or the gauge adapter screwed into the cylinder head (threaded type) (see illustration 3.20). Cylinder compression is measured with the engine turning over, but not running - carry out the compression test as described in

ee

3.18 Using a dial gauge to measure shaft runout

3.20 Using a rubber-cone type cylinder compression gauge

3.21

Oil pressure gauge and take-off point adapter (arrow)

@ Oil pressure is measured with the engine running (at a specific rpm) and often the manufacturer will specify pressure limits for a cold and hot engine.

Straight-edge and surface plate @ If checking the gasket face of a component for warpage, place a steel rule or precision straight-edge across the gasket face and measure any gap between the straightedge and component with feeler gauges (see illustration 3.22). Check diagonally across the component and between mounting holes (see illustration 3.23).

a

3.22 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage

>

al

3.23 Check for warpage in these directions

rerei4 TOOIS and Workshop Tips @ Checking individual components for warpage, such as clutch plain (metal) plates, requires a perfectly flat plate or piece or plate glass and feeler gauges.

4

Torque and leverage

What is torque? @ Torque describes the twisting force about a shaft. The amount of torque applied is determined by the distance from the centre of the shaft to the end of the lever and the amount of force being applied to the end of the lever; distance multiplied by force equals torque. @ The manufacturer applies a measured torque to a bolt or nut to ensure that it will not slacken in use and to hold two components securely together without movement in the joint. The actual torque setting depends on

@® Install the bolts/nuts in their correct location and secure them lightly. Their threads must be clean and free of any old locking compound. Unless specified the threads and flange should be dry - oiled threads are necessary in certain circumstances and the manufacturer will take this into account in the

specified torque figure. Similarly, the manufacturer may also specify the application of thread-locking compound. @ Tighten the fasteners in the specified sequence until the torque wrench clicks, indicating that the torque setting has been reached. Apply the torque again to doublecheck the setting. Where different thread diameter fasteners secure the component,

Loosening sequences @ Where more than one bolt/nut secures a component, loosen each fastener evenly a little at a time. In this way, not all the stress of the joint is held by one fastener and the components are not likely to distort. @ lf atightening sequence is provided, work in the REVERSE of this, but if not, work from the outside in, in a criss-cross sequence (see illustration 4.4).

as

a rule tighten the larger diameter ones first. @

When

finished

the with,

torque release

wrench the

has lock

been (where

applicable) and fully back off its setting to zero - do not leave the torque wrench tensioned. Also, do not use a slackening a fastener.

torque

wrench

for

the thread size, bolt or nut material and the

composition of the components being held. @ Too little torque may cause the fastener to loosen due to vibration, whereas too much torque will distort the joint faces of the component or cause the fastener to shear off. Always stick to the specified torque setting.

Using a torque wrench @ Check the calibration of the torque wrench and make sure it has a suitable range for the job. Torque wrenches are available in Nm (Newton-metres), kgf m (kilograms-force metre), Ibf ft (pounds-feet), Ibf in (inchpounds). Do not confuse Ibf ft with Ibf in. @ Adjust the tool to the desired torque on the scale (see illustration 4.1). If your torque wrench is not calibrated in the units specified, carefully convert the figure (see Conversion Factors). A manufacturer sometimes gives a torque setting as a range (8 to 10 Nm) rather than a single figure - in this case set the tool midway between the two settings. The same torque may be expressed as 9 Nm + 1 Nm. Some torque wrenches have a method of locking the setting so that it isn’t inadvertently altered during use.

Angle-tightening @ Manufacturers often specify a figure in degrees for final tightening of a fastener. This usually follows tightening to a specific torque setting. @ A degree disc can be set and attached to the socket (see illustration 4.2) or a protractor can be used to mark the angle of movement on the bolt/nut head and the surrounding casting (see illustration 4.3).

4.4 When slackening, work from the outside inwards

Tightening sequences @ I|f acomponent is held by more than one fastener it is important that the retaining bolts/nuts are tightened evenly to prevent uneven stress build-up and distortion of sealing faces. This is especially important on high-compression joints such as the cylinder head. @ A sequence is usually provided by the manufacturer, either in a diagram or actually marked in the casting. If not, always start in the centre and work outwards in a criss-cross pattern (see illustration 4.5). Start off by securing all bolts/nuts finger-tight, then set the torque wrench and tighten each fastener by a small amount in sequence until the final torque is reached. By following this practice,

4.2 Angle tightening can be accomplished with a torque-angle gauge...

H29201

4.1 Set the torque wrench index mark to the setting required, in this case 12 Nm

4.3 ...or by marking the angle on the surrounding component

4.5 When tightening, work from the inside outwards

Tools and Workshop Tips kereis the joint will be held evenly and will not be distorted. Important joints, such as the cylinder head and big-end fasteners often have two- or three-stage torque settings.

Applying leverage @ Use tools at the correct angle. Position a socket wrench or spanner on the bolt/nut so that you pull it towards you when loosening. If this can’t be done, push the spanner without curling your fingers around it (see illustration 4.6) - the spanner may slip or the fastener loosen suddenly, resulting in your fingers being crushed against a component.

@ The same equipment can be used to install bearings. Make sure the bearing housing is supported on wood blocks and line up the bearing in its housing. Fit the bearing as noted on removal - generally they are installed with their marked side facing outwards. Tap the bearing squarely into its housing using a driver or socket which bears only on the bearing’s outer race - contact with

the bearing

off a gear shaft for example, you may have to locate the puller behind a gear pinion if there is no access to the race and draw the gear pinion off the shaft as well (see illustration 5.4). Caution: Ensure that the puller’s centre bolt locates securely against the end of the shaft and will not slip when pressure is applied. Also ensure that puller does not damage the shaft end.

balls/rollers or inner race will

destroy it (see illustrations 5.1 and 5.2). @ Check that the bearing inner race and balls/rollers rotate freely.

5.4 Where no access is available to the rear of the bearing, it is sometimes possible to draw off the adjacent component

4.6 If you can’t pull on the spanner to loosen a fastener, push with your hand open

@ Additional leverage is gained by extending the length of the lever. The best way to do this is to use a breaker bar instead of the regular length tool, or to slip a length of tubing over the end of the spanner or socket wrench. @

If additional

bearing’s outer race

@®

5 : Bearings

When

installing the bearing on the shaft,

tap only on the bearing’s inner race - contact with the balls/rollers or outer race with destroy the bearing. Use a socket or length of tubing as a drift which fits over the shaft end (see illustration 5.5).

leverage will not work, the

fastener head is either damaged corroded in place (see Fasteners).

@ Operate the puller so that its centre bolt exerts pressure on the shaft end and draws the bearing off the shaft.

or firmly

4

Bearing removal and installation Drivers and sockets @ Before removing a bearing, always inspect the casing to see which way it must be driven out - some casings will have retaining plates or a cast step. Also check for any identifying markings on the bearing and if installed to a certain depth, measure this at this stage. Some roller bearings are sealed on one side - take note of the original fitted position. @ Bearings can be driven out of a casing using a bearing driver tool (with the correct size head) or a socket of the correct diameter. Select the driver head or socket so that it contacts the outer race of the bearing, not the balls/rollers or inner race. Always support the casing around the bearing housing with wood blocks, otherwise there is a risk of fracture. The bearing is driven out with a few blows on the driver or socket from a heavy mallet. Unless access is severely restricted (as with wheel bearings), a pin-punch is_ not recommended unless it is moved around the bearing to keep it square in its housing.

5.2 Using a large socket against the bearing’s outer race

Pullers and slide-hammers @ Where a bearing is pressed on a shaft a puller will be required to extract it (see illustration 5.3). Make sure that the puller clamp or legs fit securely behind the bearing and are unlikely to slip out. If pulling a bearing

\

es

ai

5.5 When installing a bearing on a shaft use a piece of tubing which bears only on the bearing’s inner race

5.3 This bearing puller clamps behind the bearing and pressure is applied to the shaft end to draw the bearing off

@ Where a bearing locates in a blind hole in a casing, it cannot be driven or pulled out as described above. A slide-hammer with knifeedged bearing puller attachment will be required. The puller attachment passes through the bearing and when tightened expands to fit firmly behind the bearing (see illustration 5.6). By operating the slidehammer part of the tool the bearing is jarred out of its housing (see illustration 5.7). @ tis possible, if the bearing is of reasonable weight, for it to drop out of its housing if the casing is heated as described below. If this

reFeig TOOIS and Workshop T = 0p) Temperature change @ If the bearing’s outer race is a tight fit in the casing, the aluminium casing can be heated to release its grip on the bearing. Aluminium will expand at a greater rate than the steel bearing outer race. There are several

ways

5.6 Expand the bearing puller so that it

locks behind the bearing...

5.9 Drawbolt component parts assembled

on a suspension arm Bolt or length of threaded bar Nuts Washer (external diameter greater than OhMOm tubing internal diameter) 4 Tubing (internal diameter sufficient to accommodate bearing) 5 Suspension arm with bearing 6 Tubing (external diameter slightly smaller than bearing) 7 Washer (external diameter slightly smaller than bearing) _

—

ae

to do this, but avoid

any localised

extreme heat (Such as a blow torch) aluminium alloy has a low melting point. @ Approved methods of heating a casing are using a domestic oven (heated to 100°C) or immersing the casing in boiling water (see illustration 5.12). Low temperature range localised heat sources such as a paint stripper heat gun or clothes iron can also be used (see illustration 5.13). Alternatively, soak a rag in boiling water, wring it out and wrap it around the bearing housing. Warning: All of these methods VAN require care in use to prevent

scalding and burns to the hands. Wear protective handling hot components.

gloves

when

°

5.7 ... attach the slide hammer to the bearing puller

method is attempted, first prepare a work surface which will enable the casing to be tapped face down to help dislodge the bearing - a wood surface is ideal since it will not damage the casing’s gasket surface. Wearing protective gloves, tap the heated casing several times against the work surface to dislodge the bearing under its own weight (see illustration 5.8).

5.10 Drawing the bearing out of the suspension arm

5.12 A casing can be immersed in a sink of boiling water to aid bearing removal

@ To extract the bearing/bush you will need a long bolt with nut (or piece of threaded bar with two nuts), a piece of tubing which has an internal diameter larger than the bearing/bush, another piece of tubing which has an external diameter slightly smaller than the bearing/ bush, and a selection of washers (see illustrations 5.9 and 5.10). Note that the

pieces of tubing must be of the same length, or longer, than the bearing/bush.

5.8 Tapping a casing face down on wood blocks can often dislodge a bearing

@ Thesame kit (without the pieces of tubing) can be used to draw the new bearing/bush back into place (see illustration 5.11).

@ Bearings can be installed in blind holes using the driver or socket method described above. Drawbolts @ Where a bearing or bush is set in the eye of a component, such as a suspension linkage arm or connecting rod small-end, removal by drift may damage the component. Furthermore, a rubber bushing in a shock absorber eye cannot successfully be driven out of position. If access is available to a engineering press, the task is straightforward. If not, a drawbolt can be fabricated to extract the bearing or bush.

5.11

Installing a new bearing (1) in the suspension arm

5.13 Using a localised heat source to aid bearing removal @ If heating the whole casing note that plastic components, such as the neutral switch, may suffer - remove them beforehand. @ After heating, remove the bearing as described above. You may find that the expansion is sufficient for the bearing to fall out of the casing under its own weight or with a light tap on the driver or socket. @ If necessary, the casing can be heated to aid bearing installation, and this is sometimes the recommended procedure if the motorcycle manufacturer has designed the housing and bearing fit with this intention.

Tools and Workshop Tips rere17 ® Installation of bearings can be eased by placing them in a freezer the night before installation. The steel bearing will contract slightly, allowing easy insertion in its housing. This is often useful when installing steering head outer races in the frame.

Bearing types and markings @

Plain shell bearings, ball bearings, needle

roller bearings and tapered roller bearings will all be found on motorcycles (see illustrations

5.14 and 5.15). The ball and roller types are usually caged between an inner and outer race, but uncaged variations may be found.

5.18 Example of ball journal bearing with damaged balls and cages

5.16 Typical bearing marking

Bearing fault finding @ If a bearing outer race has spun in its housing, the housing material will be damaged. You can use a bearing locking compound to bond the outer race in place if damage is not too severe.

5.14 Shell bearings are either plain or grooved. They are usually identified by colour code (arrow)

@ Shell bearings will fail due to damage of their working surface, as a result of lack of lubrication, corrosion or abrasive particles in the oil (see illustration 5.17). Small particles of dirt in the oil may embed in the bearing material whereas larger particles will score the bearing and shaft journal. If a number of short journeys are made, insufficient heat will be generated to drive off condensation which has built up on the bearings. FATIGUE FAILURE «a

IMPROPER SEATING

a

Le

CRATERS OR POCKETS

SCRATCHED BY DIRT

BRIGHT (POLISHED) SECTIONS

bronze material. Rubber bushes are used in suspension mounting eyes. Fibre bushes have also been used in suspension pivots.

race when spun race with the other hand (see illustration 5.19). The bearing should be almost silent when spun; if it grates or rattles it is worn.

6

Oilseals

Oil seal removal and installation @ Ojl seals should be renewed every time a component is dismantled. This is because the seal lips will become set to the sealing surface

LACK OF OIL

5.15 Tapered roller bearing (A), needle roller bearing (B) and ball journal bearing (C)

@ Shell bearings (often called inserts) are usually found at the crankshaft main and connecting rod big-end where they are good at coping with high loads. They are made of a phosphor-bronze material and are impregnated with self-lubricating properties. @® Ball bearings and needle roller bearings consist of a steel inner and outer race with the balls or rollers between the races. They require constant lubrication by oil or grease and are good at coping with axial loads. Taper roller bearings consist of rollers set in a tapered cage set on the inner race; the outer race is separate. They are good at coping with axial loads and prevent movement along the shaft - a typical application is in the steering head. @ Bearing manufacturers produce bearings to ISO size standards and stamp one face of the bearing to indicate its internal and external diameter, load capacity and type (see illustration 5.16). @ Metal bushes are usually of phosphor-

5.19 Hold outer race and listen to inner

and will not necessarily reseal. @ Oil seals can be prised out of position DIRT EMBEDDED INTO BEARING MATERIAL

OVERLAY WIPED OUT

EXCESSIVE WEAR

TAPERED JOURNAL —

OVERLAY WIPED OUT

using a large flat-bladed screwdriver (see illustration 6.1). In the case of crankcase seals, check first that the seal is not lipped on the inside, preventing its removal with the crankcases joined.

=

RADIUS RIDE H 28395

5.17 Typical bearing failures

@ Ball and roller bearings will fail due to lack of lubrication or damage to the balls or rollers. Tapered-roller bearings can be damaged by overloading them. Unless the bearing is sealed

on

both

sides,

wash

it in paraffin

(kerosene) to remove all old grease then allow it to dry. Make a visual inspection looking to dented balls or rollers, damaged cages and worn or pitted races (see illustration 5.18). @ A ball bearing can be checked for wear by listening to it when spun. Apply a film of light oil to the bearing and hold it close to the ear - hold the outer race with one hand and spin the inner

6.1

Prise out oil seals with a large flat-bladed screwdriver

@ New seals are usually installed with their marked face (containing the seal reference code) outwards and the spring side towards the fluid being retained. In certain cases, such as a two-stroke engine crankshaft seal, a

double lipped seal may be used due to there being fluid or gas on each side of the joint.

rereigs TOOIS and Workshop Tips @ Use a bearing driver or socket which bears only on the outer hard edge of the seal to install it in the casing - tapping on the inner edge will damage the sealing lip.

Oil seal types and markings @ Oil seals are usually of the single-lipped type. Double-lipped seals are found where a liquid or gas is on both sides of the joint. @ Oil seals can harden and lose their sealing ability if the motorcycle has been in storage for a long period - renewal is the only solution. @® Oil seal manufacturers also conform to the ISO markings for seal size - these are moulded into the outer face of the seal (see illustration 6.2).

6.2 These oil seal markings indicate inside diameter, outside diameter and seal thickness

7

Gaskets and sealants

the paper gasket has a bead of sealant impregnated in its surface before applying additional sealant. @

When

choosing a sealant, make sure it is

suitable for the application, particularly if being applied in a high-temperature area or in the vicinity of fuel. Certain manufacturers produce sealants in either clear, silver or black

colours to match the finish of the engine. This has a particular application on motorcycles where much of the engine is exposed. @ Do not over-apply sealant. That which is squeezed out on the outside of the joint can be wiped off, whereas an excess of sealant on

the inside can break off and clog oilways.

Breaking a sealed joint @ Age, heat, pressure and the use of hard setting sealant can cause two components to stick together so tightly that they are difficult to separate using finger pressure alone. Do not resort to using levers unless there is a pry point provided for this purpose (see illustration 7.1) or else the gasket surfaces will be damaged. @ Use a soft-faced hammer (see illustration 7.2) or a wood block and conventional hammer to strike the component near the mating surface. Avoid hammering against cast extremities since they may break off. If this method fails, try using a wood wedge between the two components. Caution: If the joint will not separate, double-check that you have removed all the fasteners.

Ea: inl Most

components

have

one

or two

hollow locating dowels between the two gasket faces. If a dowel cannot be removed, do not resort to gripping it with pliers - it will almost certainly be

distorted. Install a close-fitting socket or Phillips screwdriver into the dowel

and then grip the outer edge of the dowel to free it. the sealing faces of the components. It is imperative that all traces are removed to ensure correct sealing of the new gasket. @ Very carefully scrape all traces of gasket away making sure that the sealing surfaces are not gouged or scored by the scraper (see illustrations 7.3, 7.4 and 7.5). Stubborn deposits can be removed by spraying with an aerosol gasket remover. Final preparation of

Types of gasket and sealant @ Gaskets are used to seal the mating surfaces between components and keep lubricants,

fluids,

vacuum

or

pressure

contained within the assembly. Aluminium gaskets are sometimes found at the cylinder joints, but most gaskets are paper-based. If the mating surfaces of the components being joined are undamaged the gasket can be installed dry, although a dab of sealant or grease will be useful to hold it in place during assembly. @ RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanising) silicone rubber sealants cure when exposed to moisture in the atmosphere. These sealants are good at filling pits or irregular gasket faces, but will tend to be forced out of the joint under very high torque. They can be used to replace a paper gasket, but first make sure that the width of the paper gasket is not essential to the shimming of internal components. RTV sealants should not be used on components containing petrol (gasoline). @ Non-hardening, semi-hardening and hard setting liquid gasket compounds can be used with a gasket or between a metal-to-metal joint. Select the sealant to suit the application: universal non-hardening sealant can be used on virtually all joints; semi-hardening on joint faces which are rough or damaged; hard setting sealant on joints which require a permanent bond and are subjected to high temperature and pressure. Note: Check first if

7.3 Paper gaskets can be scraped off with a gasket scraper tool...

7.1 If a pry point is provided, apply gently pressure with a flat-bladed screwdriver

7.2 Tap around the joint with a soft-faced mallet if necessary - don’t strike cooling fins

Removal of old gasket and sealant @ Paper gaskets will most likely come away complete, leaving only a few traces stuck on

esi

... or a household scraper

Tools and Workshop Tips kereig

am

ae

|

8.4 Insert the new soft link, with O-rings, through the chain ends...

7.6 Fine abrasive paper is wrapped around a flat file to clean up the gasket face

eo 3

J, a

€

amr :

8.1 Tighten the chain breaker to push the pin out of the link...

. 8.5 ... install the O-rings over the pin ends...

Se 4q

7.7 A kitchen scourer can be used on stubborn deposits

&

Seat

aad

8.2 ... withdraw the pin, remove the tool...

the gasket surface can be made with very fine abrasive paper or a plastic kitchen scourer (see illustrations 7.6 and 7.7). @ Old sealant can be scraped or peeled off components, depending on the type originally used. Note that gasket removal compounds are available to avoid scraping the components clean; make sure the gasket remover suits the type of sealant used.

8.6 ... followed by the sideplate

ends (see illustration 8.4). Install a new O-ring over the end of each pin, followed by the sideplate (with the chain manufacturer’s marking facing outwards) (see illustrations

8 Chains 8.3 ...and separate the chain link

Breaking and joining final drive chains @ Drive chains for all but small bikes are continuous and do not have a clip-type connecting link. The chain must be broken using a chain breaker tool and the new chain securely riveted together using a new soft rivet-type link. Never use a_ clip-type connecting link instead of a rivet-type link, except in an emergency. Various chain breaking and riveting tools are available, either as separate tools or combined as illustrated in the accompanying photographs - read the instructions supplied with the tool carefully. Warning: The need to rivet the new link pins correctly cannot A be overstressed - loss of control of the motorcycle is very likely to result if the chain breaks in use. @ Rotate the chain and look for the soft link. The soft link pins look like they have been deeply centre-punched instead of peened over

like all the other pins (see illustration 8.9) and its sideplate may be a different colour. Position the soft link midway between the sprockets and assemble the chain breaker tool over one of the soft link pins (see illustration 8.1). Operate the tool to push the pin out through the chain (see illustration 8.2). On an O-ring chain, remove the O-rings (see illustration 8.3). Carry out the same procedure on the other soft link pin. Caution: Certain soft link pins (particularly on the larger chains) may require their ends to be filed or ground off before they can be pressed out using the tool. @ Check that you have the correct size and

8.5 and 8.6). On an unsealed chain, insert the link through the two chain ends, then install

the sideplate with the chain manufacturer’s marking facing outwards. @ Note that it may not be possible to install the sideplate using finger pressure alone. If using a joining tool, assemble it so that the plates of the tool clamp the link and press the sideplate over the pins (see illustration 8.7). Otherwise, use two small sockets placed over

strength (standard or heavy duty) new soft link - do not reuse the old link. Look for the size marking on the chain sideplates (see illustration 8.10). @ Position the chain ends so that they are engaged over the rear sprocket. On an O-ring chain, install

a new O-ring over each pin of the

link and insert the link through the two chain

abi

=

.

8.7 Push the sideplate into position

using a clamp

reFe20 TOOIS and Workshop Tips c) Two sockets placed each side of the hose and held with straight-jawed self-locking

grips (see illustration 9.3). d) Thick card each side of the hose held between straight-jawed self-locking grips (see illustration 9.4).

PITCH 8.11

PITCH Chain dimensions

Sizes commencing with a 4 (eg 428) have a pitch of 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)

8.8 Assemble the chain riveting tool over one pin at a time and tighten it fully

Sizes commencing with a 5 (eg 520) have a pitch of 5/8 inch (15.9 mm) Sizes commencing with a 6 (eg 630) have a pitch of 3/4 inch (19.1 mm)

@ The second and third digits of the chain size relate to the width of the rollers, again in imperial units, eg the 525 shown has 5/16 inch

9.3 ...two sockets and a pair of self-locking grips...

(7.94 mm) rollers (see illustration 8.11).

9

Hoses

8.9 Pin end correctly riveted (A), pin end unriveted (B) the rivet ends and two pieces of the wood

between a G-clamp. Operate the clamp to press the sideplate over the pins. @ Assemble the joining tool over one pin (following the maker’s instructions) and tighten the tool down to spread the pin end securely (see illustrations 8.8 and 8.9). Do the same on the other pin. Warning: Check that the pin A ends are secure and that there is no danger of the _ sideplate coming loose. If the pin ends are

Clamping to prevent flow @ Small-bore flexible hoses can be clamped to prevent fluid flow whilst a component is worked on. Whichever method is used, ensure

that the hose material is not permanently distorted or damaged by the clamp. a) A brake hose clamp available from auto accessory shops (see illustration 9.1). b) A wingnut type hose clamp (see illustration 9.2).

Freeing and fitting hoses

9.1 Hoses can be clamped with an automotive brake hose clamp...

@ Always make sure the hose clamp is moved well clear of the hose end. Grip the hose with your hand and rotate it whilst pulling it off the union. If the hose has hardened due to age and will not move, slit it with a sharp knife and peel its ends off the union (see illustration 9.5). @ Resist the temptation to use grease or soap on the unions to aid installation; although it helps the hose slip over the union it will equally aid the escape of fluid from the joint. It is preferable to soften the hose ends in hot water and wet the inside surface of the hose with water or a fluid which will evaporate.

9.2 ...awingnut type hose clamp...

9.5 Cutting a coolant hose free with a sharp knife

cracked the soft link must be renewed.

Final drive chain sizing @ Chains are sized using a three digit number, followed by a suffix to denote the chain type (see illustration 8.10). Chain type is either standard or heavy duty (thicker sideplates), and also unsealed or O-ring/ X-ring type. @ The first digit of the number relates to the pitch of the chain, ie the distance from the centre of one pin to the centre of the next pin (see illustration 8.11). Pitch is expressed in

9.4 ... or thick card and self-locking grips

eighths of an inch, as follows:

8.10 Typical chain size and type marking

Conversion Factors Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

x 25.4 x 0.305 x 1.609

=

Millimetres (mm) Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

Xx o ro)wo© BSS Inches (in) ou Feet (ft) x x S fon)ine} TT Miles —

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in*)

Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

Cubic centimetres (cc; cm‘) Litres (I) Litres (l) =k: pe)= =r US quarts (US qt) Litres (I) Litres (I) US gallons (US gal) oS Ow NON ee SS = Litres (I)

Xx Cubic inches (cu in; in*) Xx aa WN(o>) ot Imperial pints (Imp pt) x Imperial quarts (Imp qt) x © foe)oowo Imperial quarts (Imp qt) uouou x US quarts (US qt) Xx Imperial gallons (Imp gal) X 9 jee)a)ow Imperial gallons (Imp gal) oud Xx US gallons (US gal)

x 28.35 x 0.454

Grams (g) Kilograms (kg)

x Xx NO IN)fo)a

x 0.278 x 4.448 yeteya

Newtons (N) Newtons (N) Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

X Xx = i)nma x

x 0.070

Kilograms-force per square

x

x 0.068

centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm’) Atmospheres (atm)

Mass (weight) Ounces (02) Pounds (Ib)

Ounces (02) Wo Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; 0z) Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib) Newtons (N)

Ounces-force (ozf; 02)

Pounds-force (Ibf; Ib)

nono Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in’; Ib/in*) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in’; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per square inch

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in*) Xx

Pounds-force per square inch

(psi; Ibf/in’; Ib/in*) x 0.069

Bars

x

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

x 6.895

Kilopascals (kPa)

x

x 0.01

x

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

x 100 x 0.0145

Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm’) Pascals (Pa) , Pounds-force per square inch

Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in*; Ib/in’) Kilopascals (kPa)

x x

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

Millibar (mbar)

x 0.75

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

x

Millibar (mbar)

Millibar (mbar) Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inHjO)

x 0.401 x 0.535 x 0.036

Inches of water (inH»O) Inches of water (inHO)

x Xx

Millibar (mbar)

Pounds-force per square inch

x

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

=

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

=

Inches of water (inH2O)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in)

Kole 102

Pounds-force feet (|bf ft; Ib ft)

x 0.138

Heo FaKS|

Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) Newton metres (Nm)

Xx

Pounds-force inches

(Ibf in; Ib in)

x

Pounds-force inches

(Ibf in; Ib in)

x 0.083

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

x

Kilograms-force metres

x a De)oow

TT

Pounds-force inches (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

(kgf m; kg m) Pounds-force feet (|bf ft; |b ft) Newton metres (Nm)

Xelsooo x 0.102

Newton metres (Nm) Kilograms-force metres

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) x i © fee)S aS Nou Newton metres (Nm)

(kgf m; kg m)

Power Horsepower (hp)

x 745.7

= Watts (W)

Xx 0.0013 =

Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

x 1.609

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x 0.621

=

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

x 0.354

Kilometres per litre (km/l)

x 2.825

=

Miles per gallon (mpg)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon (mpg)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32

Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56

* It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (1/100km), where mpg x I/100 km = 282

rere21

rere22 Motorcycle Chemicals & Lubricants A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl. @ Contact point/spark plug cleaner is a solvent used to clean oily film and dirt from points, grime from electrical connectors and oil deposits from spark plugs. It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburettor jets and other orifices.

@ Carburettor cleaner is similar to contact point/spark plug cleaner but it usually has a stronger solvent and may leave a slight oily reside. It is not recommended for cleaning electrical components or connections. @

Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components (where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used); it also leaves no residue.

@ Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and locks.

@ Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multi-purpose grease is coloured white and_ specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease.

@ Gear oil (Sometimes called gear lube) is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, as well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities (weights) for various applications. @

Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant

specially formulated for use in the engine. It normally contains a wide

variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights (viscosity ratings) of from 5 to 80. The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered. Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W-20 to 20W50.

@

Petrol

additives

functions, depending

perform

several

on their chemical

makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburettor and inlet parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers. Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings. @® Brake and clutch fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and _ pressure encountered in brake/clutch systems. Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. @ Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains. A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers. Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays. Take care to use a lubricant marked as being suitable for O-ring chains. @ Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or

brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent.

@ Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes. @ Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal-to-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to petrol and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities. Depending on the intended use,

gasket sealers relatively soft usually applied are sprayed surfaces.

either dry hard or stay and pliable. They are by hand, with a brush, or on the gasket sealing

@ Thread locking compound is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available in a variety of types for different applications.

@ Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors. Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks.

@ Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish. Some polishes utilise a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidised (dull) paint on older vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes (that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones) have been introduced. These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than.conventional waxes and polishes.

MOT Test Checks About the MOT Test In the UK, all vehicles more than three years

old are subject to an annual test to ensure that they meet minimum safety requirements. A current test certificate must be issued before a machine can be used on public roads, and is required before a road fund licence can be issued. Riding without a current test certificate will also invalidate your insurance. For most owners, the MOT test is an annual

cause for anxiety, and this is largely due to owners not being sure what needs to be checked prior to submitting the motorcycle for testing. The simple answer is that a fully roadworthy motorcycle will have no difficulty in passing the test. This is a guide to getting your motorcycle through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be possible to examine the motorcycle to the same standard as the professional MOT

tester, particularly in view of the equipment required for some of the checks. However, working through the following procedures will enable you to identify any problem areas before submitting the motorcycle for the test. It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here, based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some exemptions for older vehicles. More information about the MOT test can be obtained from the HMSO

publications,

How Safe is your Motorcycle and The MOT Inspection Manual for Motorcycle Testing. Many of the checks require that one of the wheels is raised off the ground. If the motorcycle doesn’t have a centre stand, note

that

an

auxiliary

Additionally,

stand

will

the help of an

be

required.

assistant

may

perezs

Certain exceptions apply to machines under 50 cc, machines without a lighting system, and Classic bikes - if in doubt about any of the requirements listed below seek confirmation from an MOT tester prior to submitting the motorcycle for the test. Check that the frame number is clearly visible.

PVNaNiacy

/f a component is in

borderline condition, the tester has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. If the motorcycle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may be more inclined to pass a

HINT

borderline component than if the motorcycle is scruffy and apparently neglected.

prove useful.

Electrical System Lights, turn signals, horn and reflector ¥Y With the ignition on, check the operation of the following electrical components. Note: The electrical components on certain smallcapacity machines dre powered by the generator, requiring that the engine is run for this check.

a) Headlight and tail light. Check that both illuminate in the low and high beam switch positions. b) Position lights. Check that the front position (or sidelight) and tail light illuminate in this switch position. c) Turn signals. Check that all flash at the correct rate, and that the warning light(s) function correctly. Check that the turn signal switch works correctly. c) Hazard warning system (where fitted). Check that all four turn signals flash in this switch position. d) Brake stop light. Check that the light comes on when the front and rear brakes are independently applied. Models first used on or after 1st April 1986 must have a brake light switch on each brake. e) Horn. Check that the sound is continuous and of reasonable volume. Y

Y

Check that there is a red reflector on the rear of the machine, either mounted separately or as part of the tail light lens. Check the condition of the headlight, tail light and turn signal lenses.

Headlight beam height

¥Y The MOT tester will perform a headlight beam height check using specialised beam setting equipment (see illustration 1). This equipment will not be available to the home mechanic,

but

if you

suspect

that

the

headlight is incorrectly set or may have been maladjusted in the past, you can perform a rough test as follows. VY Position the bike in a straight line facing a brick wall. The bike must

be off its stand,

upright and with a rider seated. Measure the height from the ground to the centre of the headlight and mark a horizontal line on the wall at this height. Position the motorcycle 3.8 metres from the wall and draw a vertical

Headlight beam height checking equipment line up the wall central to the centreline of the motorcycle. Switch to dipped beam and check that the beam pattern falls slightly lower than the horizontal line and to the left of the vertical line (see illustration 2).

H29003

Home workshop beam alignment check

rere24 MOT Test Checks Exhaust System and Final Drive Exhaust

¥Y Check that the exhaust mountings are secure and that the system does not foul any of the rear suspension components. ¥Y Start the motorcycle. When the revs are increased, check that the exhaust

is neither

Y Note that the exhaust decibel level (“loudness” of the exhaust) is assessed at the discretion of the tester. If the motorcycle was first used on or after 1st January 1985 the silencer must carry the BSAU 193 stamp, ora marking relating to its make and model, or be of OE (original equipment) manufacture. If the silencer is marked NOT FOR ROAD USE, RACING USE ONLY or similar, it will fail the MOT.

holed nor leaking from any of its joints. On a

Final drive

Y Onchain or belt drive machines, check that the chain/belt is in good condition and does not have excessive slack. Also check that the sprocket is securely mounted on the rear wheel hub. Check that the chain/belt guard is in place.

linked system, check that the collector box is

¥Y

not leaking due to corrosion.

from the drive unit and fouling the rear tyre.

On shaft drive bikes, check for oil leaking

Steering and Suspension Steering

Y

With the front wheel raised off the ground,

rotate the steering from lock to lock. The handlebar or switches must not contact the fuel tank or be close enough to trap the rider’s hand. Problems can be caused by damaged lock stops on the lower yoke and frame, or by the fitting of non-standard handlebars. VY When performing the lock to lock check, also ensure that the steering moves freely without drag or notchiness. Steering movement can be impaired by poorly routed cables, or by overtight head bearings or worn bearings. The

tester will perform a check of the steering head bearing lower race by mounting the front wheel on a surface plate, then performing a lock to lock check with the weight of the machine on the lower bearing (see illustration 3). ¥Y Grasp the fork sliders (lower legs) and attempt to push and pull on the forks (see illustration 4). Any play in the steering head bearings will be felt. Note that in extreme cases, wear of the front fork bushes can be

misinterpreted for head bearing play. Y Check that the handlebars are securely mounted. Y Check that the handlebar grip rubbers are

secure. They should by bonded to the bar left end and to the throttle cable pulley on the right end.

Front suspension

Y

With the motorcycle off the stand, hold

the front brake on and pump the front forks up and down (see illustration 5). Check that they are adequately damped. Y Inspect the area above and around the front fork oil seals (see illustration 6). There should be no sign of oil on the fork tube (stanchion) nor leaking down the slider (lower leg). On models so equipped, check that there is no oil leaking from the anti-dive units. ¥ On models’ with swingarm front suspension, check that there is no freeplay in the linkage when moved from side to side.

Rear suspension

Front wheel mounted on a surface plate for steering head bearing lower race check

Checking the steering head bearings for freeplay

Hold the front brake on and pump the front

Inspect the area around the fork dust seal for oil leakage (arrow)

forks up and down to check operation

¥Y With the motorcycle off the stand and an assistant supporting the motorcycle by its handlebars, bounce the rear suspension (see illustration 7). Check that the suspension components do not foul on any of the cycle parts and check that the shock absorber(s) provide adequate damping.

Bounce the rear of the motorcycle to check rear suspension operation

MOT Test Checks

rere2s

Checking for rear suspension linkage play

Worn suspension linkage pivots (arrows) are usually the cause of play in the rear suspension

Grasp the swingarm at the ends to check for play in its pivot bearings

¥Y Visually inspect the shock absorber(s) and check that there is no sign of oil leakage from its damper. This is somewhat restricted on certain single shock models due to the location of the shock absorber. VY With the rear wheel raised off the ground, grasp the wheel at the highest point

and attempt to pull it up (see illustration 8). Any play in the swingarm pivot or suspension

VY With the rear wheel raised off the ground, grasp the swingarm ends and attempt to move the swingarm from side to side and forwards and backwards - any play indicates wear of the swingarm pivot bearings (see

linkage bearings will be felt as movement. Note: Do not confuse play with actual suspension movement. Failure to lubricate suspension linkage bearings can lead to bearing failure (see illustration 9).

illustration 10).

Brakes, Wheels and Tyres Y

Brakes

¥Y

With

the wheel

raised

off the ground,

apply the brake then free it off, and check that the wheel is about to revolve freely without brake drag. ¥Y On disc brakes, examine the disc itself. Check that it is securely mounted and not cracked. ¥Y

On disc brakes,

On

disc

brakes,

examine

the

flexible

hoses from top to bottom. Have an assistant hold the brake on so that the fluid in the hose

view the pad material

through the caliper mouth and check that the pads are not worn down beyond the limit (see illustration 11). Y On drum brakes, check that when the brake is applied the angle between the operating lever and cable or rod is not too great (see illustration 12). Check also that the operating lever doesn’t foul any other components.

systems are properly maintained. For hydraulic disc brakes, check the fluid level, lever/pedal feel (bleed of air if its spongy) and

is under pressure, and check that there is no

pad

sign of fluid leakage, bulges or cracking. If there are any metal brake pipes or unions, check that these are free from corrosion and damage. Where a brake-linked anti-dive

adjustment, cable or rod operation and shoe lining thickness.

system is fitted, check the hoses to the anti-

Y

On models with ABS, check that the self-

check warning light in the instrument panel works. VY The MOT tester will perform a test of the motorcycle’s braking efficiency based ona calculation of rider and motorcycle weight. Although this cannot be carried out at home, you can at least ensure that the braking

For

drum

brakes,

check

Wheels and tyres

dive in a similar manner. Y Check that the rear brake torque arm is secure and that its fasteners are secured by self-locking nuts or castellated nuts with splitpins or R-pins (see illustration 13).

material.

Y Check the wheel condition. Cast wheels should be free from cracks and if of the builtup design, all fasteners should be secure. Spoked wheels should be checked for broken, corroded, loose or bent spokes.

VY

With the wheel raised off the ground, spin

the wheel and visually check that the tyre and wheel run true. Check that the tyre does not foul the suspension or mudguards.

a

Brake pad wear can usually be viewed without removing the caliper. Most pads have wear indicator grooves (1) and some also have indicator tangs (2)

On drum brakes, check the angle of the operating lever with the brake fully applied. Most drum brakes have a wear indicator pointer and scale.

Brake torque arm must be properly secured at both ends

rerexn MOT Test Checks

Tyre direction of rotation arrow can be found on tyre sidewall

Check for wheel bearing play by trying to move the wheel about the axle (spindle)

USE, COMPETITION USE ONLY or similar, will fail the MOT. Y lf the tyre sidewall carries a direction of rotation arrow, this must be pointing in the direction of normal illustration 16).

wheel

rotation

(see

Y Check that the whee! axle (spindle) nuts (where applicable) are properly secured. A self-locking nut or castellated nut with a splitpin or R-pin can be used (see illustration 17).

Two straightedges are used to check wheel alignment

Castellated type wheel axle (spindle) nut must be secured by a split pin or R-pin ¥Y

With

the wheel

raised

off the

ground,

grasp the wheel and attempt to move it about the axle (spindle) (see illustration 14). Any play felt here indicates wheel bearing failure. Y Check the tyre tread depth, tread

condition illustration Y Check types must road use.

and_ sidewall condition (see 15). the tyre type. Front and rear tyre be compatible and be suitable for Tyres marked NOT FOR ROAD

~Y Wheel alignment is checked with the motorcycle off the stand and a rider seated. With the front wheel pointing straight ahead, two perfectly straight lengths of metal or wood

and placed against the sidewalls of both tyres (see illustration 18). The gap each side of the front tyre must be equidistant on both sides. Incorrect wheel alignment may be due to a cocked rear wheel (often as the result of poor chain adjustment) or in extreme cases, a bent frame.

General checks and condition Y

Check the security of all major fasteners,

bodypanels, seat, fairings (where fitted) and mudguards.

Y

Check that the rider and pillion footrests,

handlebar levers and brake pedal are securely mounted.

Y Check for corrosion on the frame or any load-bearing components. If severe, this may affect the structure, particularly under stress.

Sidecars A motorcycle fitted with a sidecar requires additional checks relating to the stability of the machine and security of attachment and

swivel joints, plus specific wheel alignment (toe-in) requirements. Additionally, tyre and lighting requirements differ from conventional

motorcycle use. Owners are advised to check MOT test requirements with an official test centre.

Storage

Rere27

Preparing for storage Before you start If repairs or an overhaul is needed, see that this is carried out now rather than left until you want to ride the bike again. Give the bike a good wash and scrub all dirt from its underside. Make sure the bike dries completely before preparing for storage.

Engine @ Remove the spark plug(s) and lubricate the cylinder bores with approximately a teaspoon of motor oil using a spout-type oil can (see illustration 1). Reinstall the spark plug(s). Crank the engine over a couple of times to coat the piston rings and bores with oil. If the bike has a kickstart, use this to turn the engine over. If not, flick the kill switch to the OFF

remove the spark plugs and fit them back in their caps; ensure that the plugs are earthed (grounded) against the cylinder head when the starter is operated (see illustration 3). Warning: It is important that the plugs are earthed (grounded) away from the spark plug holes otherwise there is a risk of atomised fuel from the cylinders igniting.

HAYNES

On a single cylinder four-

stroke engine, you can seal HiNT the combustion chamber completely by positioning the piston at TDC on the compression stroke.

AY

*

WN

@

with

case (see illustration 6).

kill switch

in the

OFF

cylinder

Connect a hose to the carburettor float chamber drain stub (arrow) and unscrew the drain screw @ Drain the carburettor(s) otherwise there is a risk of jets becoming blocked by gum deposits from the fuel (see illustration 4).

@ |f the bike is going into long-term storage, consider adding a fuel stabiliser to the fuel in the tank. If the tank is drained completely, corrosion of its internal surfaces may occur if left unprotected for a long period. The tank can be treated with a rust preventative especially for this purpose. Alternatively, remove the tank and pour half a litre of motor rant

Flick the kill switch to OFF...

Remove it from the bike - in extreme cases

of cold the battery may freeze and crack its

position,

Squirt a drop of motor oil into each

A

Battery

position and crank the engine over on the starter (see illustration 2). If the nature on the ignition system prevents the starter operating the

.we

astic Exhausts can be sealed off with a pl g ba oa

oil into it, install the filler cap and shake the

Disconnect the negative lead (A) first, followed by the positive lead (B) @ Check the electrolyte level and top up if necessary (conventional refillable batteries). Clean the terminals. @ Store the battery off the motorcycle and away from any sources of fire. Position a wooden block under the battery if it is to sit on the ground. @ Give the battery a trickle charge for a few hours every month (see illustration 7).

tank to coat its internals with oil before draining off the excess. The same effect can also be achieved by spraying WD40 or a similar water-dispersant around the inside of the tank via its flexible nozzle.

@ Make sure the cooling system contains the correct mix of antifreeze. Antifreeze contains important corrosion inhibitors.

. . and ensure that the metal bodies of the plugs (arrows) are earthed against the cylinder head

also

@ The air intakes and exhaust can be sealed off by covering or plugging the openings. Ensure that you do not seal in any condensation; run the engine until it is hot, then switch off and allow to cool. Tape a piece of thick plastic over the silencer end(s) (see illustration 5). Note that some advocate pouring a tablespoon of motor oil into the silencer(s) before sealing them off.

Use a suitable battery charger - this kit also assess battery condition

ReFe2s OtOorage not compress

Tyres

Pivots and controls

@ Place the bike on its centrestand or an auxiliary stand which will support the motorcycle in an upright position. Position wood blocks under the tyres to keep them off the ground and to provide insulation from damp. If the bike is being put into long-term

@ Lubricate all lever, pedal, stand and footrest pivot points. If grease nipples are fitted to the rear suspension components, apply lubricant to the pivots. @ Lubricate all control cables.

storage, ideally both tyres should be off the ground; not only will this protect the tyres, but will also ensure that no load is placed on the steering head or wheel bearings. @ Deflate each tyre by 5 to 10 psi, no more or the beads may unseat from the rim, making subsequent inflation difficult on tubeless

tyres.

Cycle components @ Apply a wax protectant to all painted and plastic components. Wipe off any excess, but don’t polish to a shine. Where fitted, clean the screen with soap and water. @ Coat metal parts with Vaseline (petroleum jelly). When applying this to the fork tubes, do

the forks otherwise the seals

will rot from contact with the Vaseline. @ Apply a vinyl cleaner to the seat.

Storage conditions @ Aim to store the bike in a shed or garage which does not leak and is free from damp. @ Drape an old blanket or bedspread over the bike to protect it from dust and direct contact with sunlight (which will fade paint).

This also hides the bike from prying eyes. Beware of tight-fitting plastic covers which may allow condensation to form and settle on the bike.

Getting back on the road Engine and transmission @ Change the oil and replace the oil filter. If this was done prior to storage, check that the oil hasn’t emulsified - a thick whitish substance which occurs through condensation. @ Remove the spark plugs. Using a spouttype oil can, squirt a few drops of oil into the cylinder(s). This will provide initial lubrication as the piston rings and bores comes back into contact. Service the spark plugs, or fit new ones, and install them in the engine. @ Check that the clutch isn’t stuck on. The plates can stick together if left standing for some time, preventing clutch operation. Engage a gear and try rocking the bike back and forth with the clutch lever held against the handlebar. If this doesn’t work on cableoperated clutches, hold the clutch lever back

against the handlebar with a strong elastic band or cable tie for a couple of hours (see illustration 8).

the fuel tank prior to storage, it is advised that the old fuel is disposed of since it will go off over a period of time. Refill the fuel tank with fresh fuel.

Frame and running gear @ Ojl all pivot points and cables. @ Check the tyre pressures. They will definitely need inflating if pressures were reduced for storage. @ Lubricate the final drive chain (where applicable). @ Remove any protective coating applied to the fork tubes (stanchions) since this may well destroy the fork seals. If the fork tubes weren’t protected and have picked up rust spots, remove them with very fine abrasive paper and refinish with metal polish. @ Check that both brakes operate correctly. Apply each brake hard and check that it’s not possible to move

the motorcycle forwards,

then check that the brake frees off again once released. Brake caliper pistons can stick due to corrosion around the piston head, or on the

Hold clutch lever back against the handlebar with elastic bands or a cable tie

sliding caliper types, due to corrosion of the slider pins. If the brake doesn’t free after repeated operation, take the caliper off for examination. Similarly drum brakes can stick due to a seized operating cam, cable or rod linkage. @ If the motorcycle has been in long-term storage, renew the brake fluid and clutch fluid (where applicable). @ Depending on where the bike has been stored, the wiring, cables and hoses may have been nibbled by rodents. Make a visual check and investigate disturbed wiring loom tape.

Battery @ If the air intakes or silencer end(s) were blocked off, remove the bung or cover used. @ If the fuel tank was coated with a rust preventative, oil or a stabiliser added to the fuel, drain and flush the tank and dispose of the fuel sensibly. If no action was taken with

@ If the battery has been previously removal and given top up charges it can simply be reconnected. Remember to connect the positive cable first and the negative cable last. @

On conventional

battery

has

not

refillable batteries, if the

received

any

attention,

remove it from the motorcycle and check its electrolyte level. Top up if necessary then charge the battery. If the battery fails to hold a charge and a visual checks show heavy white sulphation of the plates, the battery is probably defective and must be renewed. This is particularly likely if the battery is old. Confirm battery condition with a specific gravity check. @ On sealed (MF) batteries, if the battery has

not received any attention, remove it from the motorcycle and charge it according to the information on the battery case - if the battery fails to hold a charge it must be renewed.

Starting procedure @ |f akickstart is fitted, turn the engine over a couple of times with the ignition OFF to distribute oil around the engine. If no kickstart is fitted, flick the engine kill switch OFF and the ignition ON and crank the engine over a couple of times to work oil around the upper cylinder components. If the nature of the ignition system is such that the starter won’t work

with the kill switch

OFF,

remove

the

spark plugs, fit them back into their caps and earth (ground) their bodies on the cylinder head. Reinstall the spark plugs afterwards. @ Switch the kill switch to RUN, operate the choke and start the engine. If the engine won’t start don’t continue cranking the engine - not only will this flatten the battery, but the starter motor will overheat. Switch the ignition off and try again later. If the engine refuses to start, go through the fault finding procedures in this manual. Note: /f the bike has been in storage for a long time, old fuel or a carburettor blockage may be the problem. Gum deposits in carburettors can block jets - if a carburettor cleaner doesn’t prove successful the carburettors must be dismantled for cleaning.

@ Once the engine has started, check that the lights, turn signals and horn work properly. @ Treat the bike gently for the first ride and check all fluid levels on completion. Settle the bike back into the maintenance schedule.

Fault Finding

This Section provides an easy reference-guide to the more common faults that are likely to afflict your machine. Obviously, the opportunities are almost limitless for faults to occur as a result of obscure failures, and to try and cover all eventualities would require a book. Indeed, a number have been written on the subject. Successful troubleshooting is not a mysterious ‘black art’ but the application of a bit of knowledge combined with a systematic and logical approach to the problem. Approach any troubleshooting by first accurately identifying the symptom and then checking through the list

1 Starter motor problems

of possible causes, starting with the simplest or most obvious and progressing in stages to the most complex. Take nothing for granted, but above all apply liberal quantities of

common sense. The main symptom of a fault is given in the text as a major heading below which are listed the various systems or areas which may contain the fault. Details of each possible cause for a fault and the remedial action to be taken are given, in brief, in the paragraphs below each heading. Further information should be sought in the relevant Chapter.

11 Abnormal engine noise Knocking or pinking Piston slap or rattling from cylinder Valve noise or tapping from cylinder head Other noises

[] Starter motor not rotating L] Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over Starter motor and clutch function but engine will not turn over

Engine does not start when turned over

No fuel flow to carburetor

12 Abnormal transmission noise

Fuel not reaching cylinder Engine flooding No spark at plug Weak spark at plug Compression low

Clutch noise [|] Transmission noise

13 Exhaust smokes excessively White/blue smoke (caused by oil burning) Black smoke (caused by over-rich mixture)

Engine stalls after starting General causes

Poor running at. idle and low speed Weak spark at plug or erratic firing Fuel/air mixture incorrect Compression low

Acceleration poor

4 Oil pressure indicator light comes on

ak

&

Engine lubrication system failure Electrical system failure

15 Poor handling or roadholding Directional instability

Steering bias to left or right |] Handlebar vibrates or oscillates Poor front fork performance Front fork judder when braking Poor rear suspension performance

General causes

Poor running or lack of power at high speeds Weak spark at plug or erratic firing Fuel/air mixture incorrect Compression low

16Abnormal

Overheating Firing incorrect _ Fuel/air mixture incorrect Lubrication inadequate Miscellaneous causes

_ Clutch operating problems - Clutch slip

Rear suspension noise

7 Brake problems

aah

Brakes are spongy or ineffective Brake drag - disc brakes Brake lever or pedal pulsates in Disc brake noise BEI Brakes are spongy or ineffective Brake drag - drum brakes Brake lever or pedal pulsates in Drum brake noise Brake induced fork judder UUOUO

: Clutch drag

e® $00 ®DOOD OoooooON Oe aOw oO Cope ON ooo 4 0Gear selection problems e- Gear lever does not return -() Gear selection difficult or impossible

Jumping out of gear Has Overselection

aEe

frame and suspension noise

[| Front end noise

Knocking or pinking General causes

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=

8 Electrical problems

Battery dead or weak Battery overcharged Total electrical failure Circuit failure Bulbs blowing repeatedly OUOUD

- disc brakes operation - disc brakes - drum brakes operation - drum brakes

reres0 Fault Finding 1

Starter motor problems

Starter motor not rotating Engine stop switch off. Fuse blown. Check the main fuse located behind the battery side

cover. Battery voltage low. Switching on the headlamp and operating the horn will give a good indication of the charge level. If necessary recharge the battery from an external source. Neutral gear not selected. Where a neutral indicator switch is fitted. Faulty neutral indicator switch or clutch interlock switch (where fitted). Check the switch wiring and switches for correct operation. L] Ignition switch defective. Check switch for continuity and connections for security. Engine stop switch defective. Check switch for continuity in ‘Run’ position. Fault will be caused by broken, wet or corroded switch

contacts. Clean or renew as necessary. Starter button switch faulty. Check continuity of switch. Faults as

O

for engine stop switch. Starter relay (Solenoid) faulty. If the switch is functioning correctly a pronounced click should be heard when the starter button is depressed. This pre-supposes that current is flowing to the solenoid when the button is depressed. Wiring open or shorted. Check first that the battery terminal connections are tight and corrosion free. Follow this by checking that all wiring connections are dry, tight and corrosion free. Check

also for frayed or broken wiring. Occasionally a wire may become trapped between two moving components, particularly in the vicinity of the steering head, leading to breakage of the internal core but leaving the softer but more resilient outer cover intact. This can cause mysterious intermittent or total power loss. (_] Starter motor defective. A badly worn starter motor may cause high current drain from a battery without the motor rotating. If current is found to be reaching the motor, after checking the starter button and starter relay, suspect a damaged motor. The motor should be removed for inspection.

Starter motor rotates but engine does not turn over | Damaged starter motor drive train. Inspect and renew component where necessary. Failure in this area is unlikely.

Starter motor and clutch function but engine will not turn over Engine seized. Seizure of the engine is always a result of damage to internal components due to lubrication failure, or component breakage resulting from abuse, neglect or old age. A seizing or partially seized component may go unnoticed until the engine has cooled down and an attempt is made to restart the engine. Suspect first seizure of the valves, valve gear and the pistons. Instantaneous seizure whilst the engine is running indicates component breakage. In either case major dismantling and inspection will be required.

2 Engine does not start when turned over No fuel flow to carburettor _] No fuel or insufficient fuel in tank. Fuel tap lever position incorrectly selected. Tank filler cap air vent obstructed. Usually caused by dirt or water.

Clean the vent orifice. Fuel tap or filter blocked. Blockage may be due to accumulation of rust or paint flakes from the tank’s inner surface or of foreign matter from Look Fuel from

contaminated fuel. Remove the tap and clean it and the filter. also for water droplets in the fuel. line blocked. Blockage of the fuel line is more likely to result a kink in the line rather than the accumulation of debris.

Fuel not reaching cylinder O Float chamber not filling. Caused by float needle or floats sticking in up position. This may occur after the machine has been left standing for an extended length of time allowing the fuel to evaporate. When this occurs a gummy residue is often left which hardens to a varnish-like substance. This condition may be worsened by corrosion and crystaline deposits produced prior to the total evaporation of contaminated fuel. Sticking of the float needle may also be caused by wear. In any case removal of the float chamber will be necessary for inspection and cleaning. Blockage in starting circuit, slow running circuit or jets. Blockage of these items may be attributable to debris from the fuel tank bypassing the filter system or to gumming up as described in paragraph 1. Water droplets in the fuel will also block jets and passages. The carburettor should be dismantled for cleaning.» 7 Fuel level too low. The fuel level in the float chamber is controlled by float height. The fuel level may increase with wear or damage but will never reduce, thus a low fuel level is an inherent rather than developing condition. Check the fuel level and make any necessary adjustment.

Engine flooding _] Float valve needle worn or stuck open. A piece of rust or other debris can prevent correct seating of the needle against the valve seat thereby permitting an uncontrolled flow of fuel. Similarly, a worn needle or

needle seat will prevent valve closure. Dismantle the carburettor float bowl for cleaning and, if necessary, renewal of the worn components.

Fuel level too high. The fuel level is controlled by the float height which may increase due to wear of the float needle, pivot pin or operating tang. Check the float height, and make any necessary adjustment. A leaking float will cause an increase in fuel level, and thus should be renewed. Accelerator pump. On those models so equipped, repeated operation of the throttle prior to starting will cause flooding due to too much raw fuel being injected into the venturi. Cold starting mechanism. Check the choke (starter mechanism) for correct operation. If the mechanism jams in the ‘On’ position, subsequent starting of a hot engine will be difficult. Blocked air filter. A badly restricted air filter will cause flooding. Check the filter and clean or renew as required.

No spark at plug Ignition switch not on. Engine stop switch off. Fuse blown. Check fuse for ignition circuit. See wiring diagram. Battery voltage low. The current draw required by a starter motor is sufficiently high that an under-charged battery may not have enough spare capacity to provide power for the ignition circuit during starting. Use of the kickstart (where fitted) is recommended until the battery has been recharged either by the machine’s generator or from an external charger. _] Starter motor inefficient. A starter motor with worn brushes and a worn or dirty commutator will draw excessive amounts of current causing power starvation in the ignition system. See the preceding paragraph. Starter motor overhaul will be required. (_] Spark plug failure. Clean the spark plug thoroughly and reset the electrode gap. Refer to the spark plug section in Chapter 1. If the spark plug shorts internally or has sustained visible damage to the electrodes, core or ceramic insulator it should be renewed. On rare occasions a plug that appears to spark vigorously will fail to do so when refitted to the engine and subjected to the compression pressure in the cylinder.

Fault Finding

reresi

2 Engine does not start when turned over (continued) (| Spark plug cap or high tension (HT) lead faulty. Check condition and security. Replace if deterioration is evident. Spark plug cap loose. Check that the spark plug cap fits securely over the plug and, where fitted, the screwed

terminal on the plug

end is secure. Shorting due to moisture. Certain parts of the ignition system are susceptible to shorting when the machine is ridden or parked in wet weather. Check particularly the area from the spark plug cap back to the ignition coil. A water dispersant spray may be used to dry out waterlogged components. Recurrence of the problem can be prevented by using an ignition sealant spray after drying out and cleaning. Ignition or stop switch shorted. May be caused by water, corrosion or wear. Water dispersant and contact cleaning sprays may be used. If this fails to overcome the problem dismantling and visual inspection of the switches will be required. Shorting or open circuit in wiring. Failure in any wire connecting any of the ignition components will cause ignition malfunction. Check also that all connections are clean, dry and tight. _} Ignition coil failure. Check the coil, referring to Chapter 6. |] Capacitor (condenser) failure. The capacitor may be checked most easily by direct substitution with a replacement item. Blackened contact breaker points indicate capacitor malfunction, but this may not always occur. |_| Contact breaker points pitted, burned or closed up. Check the contact breaker points, referring to Chapter 1. Check also that the low tension leads at the contact breaker are secure and not shorting out.

__] Electronic ignition system fault. Refer to Chapter 6.

Weak spark at plug Feeble sparking at the plug may be caused by any of the faults mentioned under ‘No spark at plug’ other than those items in paragraphs 1 to 3. Check first the contact breaker assembly and the spark plug, these being the most likely culprits.

Compression low Spark plug loose. This will be self-evident on inspection, and may be accompanied by a hissing noise when the engine is turned over. Remove the plug and check that the threads in the cylinder head are not damaged. Check also that the plug sealing washer is in good condition. Cylinder head gasket leaking. This condition is often accompanied by a high pitched squeak from around the cylinder head and oil loss, and may be caused by insufficiently tightened cylinder head fasteners, a warped cylinder head or mechanical failure of the gasket material. Re-torqueing the fasteners to the correct specification may seal the leak in some instances but if damage has occurred this course of action will provide, at best, only a temporary

cure. Valve not seating correctly. The failure of a valve to seat may be caused by insufficient valve clearance, pitting of the valve seat or face, carbon deposits on the valve seat or seizure of the valve stem or valve gear components. Valve spring breakage will also prevent correct valve closure. The valve clearances should be checked first and then, if these are found to be in order, further dismantling will be required to inspect the relevant components for failure. Cylinder, piston and ring wear. Compression pressure will be lost if any of these components are badly worn. Wear in one component is invariably accompanied by wear in another. A top end overhaul will be required. Piston rings sticking or broken. Sticking of the piston rings may be caused by seizure due to lack of lubrication or heating as a result of poor carburation or incorrect fuel type. Gumming of the rings may result from lack of use, or carbon deposits in the ring grooves. Broken rings result from over-revving, overheating or general wear. In either case a top-end overhaul will be required.

3 Engine stalls after starting General causes |] Improper cold start mechanism operation. Check that the operating

controls function smoothly and, where applicable, are correctly adjusted. A cold engine may not require application of an enriched mixture to start initially but may baulk without choke once firing. Likewise a hot engine may start with an enriched mixture but will stop almost immediately if the choke is inadvertently in operation. L] Ignition malfunction. See Section 2, ‘Weak spark at plug’. ] Carburettor incorrectly adjusted. Maladjustment of the mixture strength or idle speed may cause the engine to stop immediately after starting. See Chapter 5. (| Fuel contamination. Check for filter blockage by debris or water which reduces, but does not completely stop, fuel flow or blockage

of the slow speed circuit in the carburettor by the same agents. If water is present it can often be seen as droplets in the bottom of the float bowl. Clean the filter and, where water is in evidence, drain and flush the fuel tank and float bowl. Intake air leak. Check for security of the carburettor mounting and hose connections, and for cracks or splits in the hoses. Check also that the carburettor top is secure and that the vacuum gauge adaptor plug (where fitted) is tight. Air filter blocked or omitted. A blocked filter will cause an over-rich mixture; the omission

of a filter will cause an excessively weak

mixture. Both conditions will have a detrimental affect on carburation. Clean or renew the filter as necessary. Fuel filler cap air vent blocked. Usually caused by dirt or water. Clean the vent orifice.

4 Poor running at idle and low speed Weak spark at plug or erratic firing (| Battery voltage low. In certain conditions low battery charge, especially when coupled with a badly sulphated battery, may result in misfiring. If the battery is in good general condition it should be recharged; an old battery suffering from sulphated plates should be renewed.

Spark plug fouled, faulty or incorrectly adjusted. See Chapter 1. Spark plug cap or high tension lead shorting. Check the condition of both these items ensuring that they are in good condition and dry and that the cap is fitted correctly. Spark plug type incorrect. Fit plug of correct type and heat range as given in Specifications. In certain conditions a plug of hotter or colder type may be required for normal running.

reres2 Fault Finding 4 Poor running at idle and low speed (continued) _] Contact breaker points pitted, burned or closed-up. Check the contact breaker assembly, referring to Chapter 1. Igniting timing incorrect. Check the ignition timing statically and dynamically, ensuring that the advance is functioning correctly. Faulty ignition coil. Partial failure of the coil internal insulation will diminish the performance of the coil. No repair is possible, a new component must be fitted. Faulty capacitor (condenser). A failure of capacitor will cause blackening of the contact breaker point faces and will allow excessive sparking at the points. A faulty capacitor may best be checked by substitution of a serviceable replacement item.

Fuel/air mixture incorrect Intake air leak. See Section 3. (_] Mixture strength incorrect. Adjust slow running mixture strength using pilot adjustment screw. Carburettor synchronisation.

Pilot jet or slow running circuit blocked. The carburettor should be removed and dismantled for thorough cleaning. Blow through all jets and air passages with compressed air to clear obstructions. Air cleaner clogged or omitted. Clean or fit air cleaner element as necessary. Check also that the element and air filter cover are correctly seated. Cold start mechanism in operation. Check that the choke has not been left on inadvertently and the operation is correct. Where applicable check the operating cable free play. (_] Fuel level too high or too low. Check the float height and adjust as necessary. See Section 2 Engine flooding’. Fuel tank air vent obstructed. Obstruction usually caused by dirt or water. Clean vent orifice. Valve clearance incorrect. Check, and if necessary, adjust, the clearances.

Compression low See Section 2 ‘Compression low’.

5 Acceleration poor General causes See Section 2 ‘Compression low’. Accelerator pump defective. Where so equipped, check that the accelerator pump injects raw fuel into the carburettor venturi, when the throttle is open fully. If this does not occur check the condition of the pump components and that the feed passage to the pump is not obstructed. Timing not advancing. This is caused by a sticking or damaged

automatic timing unit (ATU). Cleaning and lubrication of the ATU will usually overcome sticking, failing this, and in any event if damage is evident, renewal of the ATU will be required. Sticking throttle vacuum piston. CD carburettors only. Brakes binding. Usually caused by maladajustment or partial seizure of the operating mechanism due to poor maintenance. Check brake adjustment (where applicable). A bent wheel spindle or warped brake disc can produce similar symptoms.

6 Poor running or lack of power at high speeds Weak spark at plug or erratic firing All items as for Section 4 Weak spark at plug or erratic firing’. HT lead insulation failure. Insulation failure of the HT lead and spark plug cap due to old age or damage can cause shorting when the engine is driven hard. This condition may be less noticeable, or not noticeable at all at lower engine speeds.

Fuel/air mixture incorrect All items as for Section

4 ’Fuel/air mixture incorrect’,

with the

exception of items 2 and 4. Main jet blocked. Debris from contaminated fuel, or from the fuel tank, and water in the fuel can block the main jet. Clean the fuel filter, the float bowl area, and if water is present, flush and refill the

fuel tank.

Main jet is the wrong size. The standard carburettor jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure For high altitudes, usually above 5000 ft, a smaller main jet will be required. Jet needle and needle jet worn. These can be renewed individually but should be renewed as a pair. Renewal of both items requires partial dismantling of the carburettor. Air bleed holes blocked. Dismantle carburettor and use compressed air to blow out all air passages. Reduced fuel flow. A reduction in the maximum fuel flow from the fuel tank to the carburettor will cause fuel starvation, proportionate to the engine speed. Check for blockages through debris or a kinked fuel line. Vacuum diaphragm split. Renew.

Compression low See Section 2 ‘Compression low’.

7 Knocking or pinking General causes Carbon build-up in combustion chamber. After high mileages have been covered large accumulation of carbon may occur. This may glow red hot and cause premature ignition of the fuel/air mixture, in advance of normal firing by the spark plug. Cylinder head removal will be required to allow inspection and cleaning. (_] Fuel incorrect. A low grade fuel, or one of poor quality may result in compression induced detonation of the fuel resulting in knocking and pinking noises. Use only the specified grade of fuel. Refer to Chapter 5. Old fuel can cause similar problems. A too highly leaded fuel will reduce detonation but will accelerate deposit formation in

the combustion chamber and may lead to early pre-ignition as described in item 1. q Spark plug heat range incorrect. Uncontrolled pre-ignition can result from the use of a spark plug the heat range of which is too hot. q Weak mixture. Overheating of the engine due to a weak mixture can result in pre-ignition occurring where it would not occur when engine temperature was within normal limits. Maladjustment, blocked jets or passages and air leaks can cause this condition. _] Some models are prone to pinking (see Chapter 6 for a typical example). In severe cases, compression plates may be fitted to provide a cure.

Fault Finding

reress

8 Overheating Firing incorrect Spark plug fouled, defective or maladjusted. See Chapter 1. (_] Spark plug type incorrect. Refer to the Specifications and ensure that the correct plug type is fitted. L] Incorrect ignition timing. Timing that is far too much advanced or far too much retarded will cause overheating. Check the ignition timing is correct and that the advance mechanism is functioning.

Fuel/air mixture incorrect L] Slow speed mixture strength incorrect. Adjust pilot air screw. [] Main jet wrong size. The carburettor is jetted for sea

level

atmospheric conditions. For high altitudes, usually above 5000 ft, a

smaller main jet will be required. Air filter badly fitted or omitted. Check that the filter element is in place and that it and the air filter box cover are sealing correctly. Any leaks will cause a weak mixture. Induction air leaks. Check the security of the carburettor mountings and hose connections, and for cracks and splits in the hoses. Check also that the carburettor top is secure and that the vacuum gauge adaptor plug (where fitted) is tight.

[_] Fuel level too low. See Section 2 Fuel not reaching cylinder’. Fuel tank filler cap air vent obstructed. Clear blockage.

Lubrication inadequate Engine oil too low. Not only does the oil serve as a lubricant by preventing friction between moving components. but it also acts as a coolant. Check the oil level and replenish. Engine oil overworked. The lubricating properties of oil are lost slowly during use as a result of changes resulting from heat and also contamination. Always change the oil at the recommended interval. Engine oil of incorrect viscosity or poor quality. Always use the recommended viscosity and type of oil. Oil filter and filter by-pass valve blocked. Renew filter and clean the by-pass valve.

Miscellaneous causes Engine fins clogged. A build-up of mud in the cylinder head and cylinder barrel cooling fins will decrease the cooling capabilities of the fins. Clean the fins as required.

9 Clutch operating problems Clutch slip

Oil leaking on to clutch plate. Dismantle clutch (Chapter 3) renew

No clutch lever play. Adjust clutch lever end play according to the procedure in Chapter 1. Clutch plate worn or warped. Overhaul clutch assembly, replacing plate if necessary (Chapter 3). Pressure or cover, plates worn or warped. Overhaul assembly, replacing plates out of specification (Chapter 3). Clutch spring broken or worn. An old or heat-damaged slipping clutch) spring should be renewed (Chapter 3). Clutch release not adjusted properly. See Chapter 1. Clutch inner cable snagging. Caused by a frayed cable or ee oh Ee outer cable. Replace the cable with a new one. Repair of a

clutch

(from

kinked frayed

cable is not advised. () Clutch release mechanism defective. Worn or damaged parts in the clutch release mechanism could include the pushrod, thrust bearing or thrust piston. Replace parts as necessary (Chapter 3).

clutch plate, wash off all traces of oil and trace source of leak. If the

leak is from the engine refer to Chapter 2, if from the gearbox, refer to Chapter 4.

Clutch drag Clutch lever play excessive. Adjust lever at bars or at cable end if necessary (refer to Chapter 1). Clutch plates warped or damaged. This will cause a drag on the clutch, causing the machine to creep. Overhaul clutch assembly (Chapter 3). Clutch release mechanism defective. Worn or damaged release mechanism parts can stick and fail to provide leverage. Overhaul clutch release mechanism (Chapter 3).

10 Gear selection problems Gear lever does not return (_] Weak or broken return spring. Renew the spring.

Gear selection difficult or impossible (] Clutch not disengaging fully. See Section 9 ’Clutch drag’. ) Wear at external linkage (where fitted) causing excessive free play. Renew worn items. |] Gearchange arms, pawis or pins worn or damaged. Wear or breakage of any of these items may cause difficulty in selecting one or more gears. Overhaul the selector mechanism. (| Gearchange arm spring broken. Renew spring. ] Gearchange drum stopper cam damage. Failure, rather than wear,

of these items may jam the cam plates thereby preventing gearchanging. The damaged items must be renewed. Selector forks bent or seized. This can be as a result of lack of lubrication. Though rare, bending of a shaft can result from a missed gearchange or false selection at high speed. Selector fork end and pin wear. Pronounced wear of these items and the grooves in the cam plates can lead to imprecise selection and, eventually, no selection. Renewal of the worn components will be required. Structural failure. Failure of any one component of the selector rod and change mechanism will result in improper or fouled gear selection.

reresa Fault Finding 10 Gear selection problems (continued) Jumping out of gear ; ;

__] Indexing lever assembly worn or damaged. Wear of the lever and the cam with which it locates and breakage of the detent spring can cause imprecise gear selection resulting in jumping out of gear. Renew the damaged components. J imei

Gear pinion dogs worn or damaged. Rounding and the mating recesses in adjacent pinion can of gear when under load. The gears should renewed. Attempting to reprofile the dogs is not

off the dog edges lead to jumping out be inspected and recommended.

[] Gear pinions, components.

bushes

and

Cl Gear pinion tooth broken.

shafts

Chipped

worn.

Renew

the worn

teeth are UniIKelme

ates

jumping out of gear once the gear has been selected fully; a tooth which is completely broken off, however, may cause problems in this respect and in any event will cause transmission noise.

Overselection Pawl spring weak or broken. Renew the spring. te! Indexing lever worn or broken. Renew the damaged items. Stopper arm spring worn or broken. Renew the spring.

(_] Selector forks, cam plates and pinion grooves worn. Extreme wear

[_] Gearchange arm stop pads worn. Repairs can be made by welding

of these interconnected items can occur after high mileages especially when lubrication has been neglected. The worn components must be renewed.

and reprofiling with a file. [| Selector limiter claw components (where fitted) worn or damaged. Renew the damaged items.

11 Abnormal engine noise Knocking

or pinking

breakthrough or failure of the surface hardening on the rocker arm

a See.Sactlenty

tips. Similar wear in the cam lobes can be expected. Renew the worn components after checking for lubrication failure.

;

Piston slap or rattling from cylinder

Other noises

[_] Cylinder bore/piston clearance excessive. Resulting from wear, partial seizure or improper boring during overhaul. This condition can often be heard as a high, rapid tapping noise when the engine is under little or no load, particularly when power is just beginning to be applied. Reboring to the next correct oversize should be carried out (where possible) and a new oversize piston fitted or the cylinders and pistons should be renewed (all models 1981 on). Connecting rod bent. This can be caused by over-revving, trying to start a very badly flooded engine (resulting in a hydraulic lock in the

cylinder) or by earlier mechanical failure such as a dropped valve. Attempts at straightening a bent connecting rod from a high performance engine are not recommended. Careful inspection of the crankshaft should

be made

Big-end bearing wear. A pronounced knock from within the crankcase which worstens rapidly is indicative of big-end bearing failure as a result of extreme normal wear or lubrication failure. Remedial action in the form of a bottom end overhaul should be taken; continuing to run the engine will lead to further damage including the possibility of connecting rod breakage. Oo Main bearing failure. Extreme normal wear or failure of the main bearings is characteristically accompanied by a rumble from the crankcase and vibration felt through the frame and footrests. Refer

to Chapter 2; crankshaft repair is a task for a BMW dealer only. Crankshaft excessively out of true. A bent crank may result from over-revving or damage from an upper cylinder component or

before renewing the damaged

gearbox failure. Renew the crankshaft.

connecting rod. ;

Engine mounting loose. Tighten all the engine mounting nuts and bolts.

L] Gudgeon pin, piston boss bore or small-end bearing wear or

Cylinder head gasket leaking. The noise most often associated with

seizure. Excess clearance or partial seizure between normal moving

a leaking head gasket is a high pitched squeaking, although any

parts of these items can cause continuous or intermittent tapping

other noise consistent with gas being forced out under pressure

noises. Rapid wear or seizure is caused by lubrication starvation

from a small orifice can also be emitted. Gasket leakage is often

resulting from an insufficient engine oil level or oilway blockage. |] Piston rings worn, broken or sticking. Renew the rings after careful inspection of the piston and bore.

accompanied by oil seepage from around the mating joint or from the cylinder head holding down bolts and nuts. Leakage results from insufficient or uneven tightening of the cylinder head fasteners, or from random mechanical failure. Retightening to the correct torque figure will, at best, only provide a temporary cure. The gasket should be renewed at the earliest opportunity. (_] Exhaust system leakage. Popping or crackling in the exhaust system, particularly when it occurs with the engine on the overrun, indicates a poor joint either at the cylinder port or at the exhaust pipe/silencer connection. Failure of the gasket or looseness of the clamp should be looked for.

Valve noise or tapping from the cylinder head Valve clearance incorrect. Adjust the clearances with the engine cold. Valve spring broken or weak. Renew the spring set. Excessive rocker arm endfloat. Refer to Chapter 2. |_| Rocker arm or spindle wear. Rapid wear of a rocker arm, and the resulting need for frequent valve clearance adjustment, indicates

12 Abnormal transmission noise Clutch noise Clutch plate centre splines worn. Renew examine closely the gearbox input shaft.

Transmission noise _]| Bearing or bushes worn

or damaged.

the clutch plate and

Renew

from any failed component are picked up by a meshing pinion. The condition will lead to rapid bearing wear or early gear failure. Oil level too low. Top up immediately to prevent damage to gearbox. Gearchange mechanism worn or damaged. Wear or failure of certain items in the selection and change components can induce

the affected

mis-selection of gears (see Section 10, Gear selection difficult or

components. (|_| Gear pinions worn or chipped. Renew the gear pinions. |_| Metal chips jams in gear teeth. This can occur when pieces of metal

impossible) where incipient engagement of more than one gear set is promoted. Remedial action, by the overhaul of the gearbox, should be taken without delay.

Fault Finding

reres3s

13 Exhaust smokes excessively White/blue smoke (caused by oil burning)

0

Black smoke

Piston rings worn or broken. Breakage or wear of any ring, but particularly the oil control ring, will allow engine oil past the piston into the combustion chamber. Overhaul the cylinder barrel and piston. Cylinder cracked, worn or scored. These conditions may be caused by overheating, lack of lubrication, component failure or advanced normal wear. The cylinder barrel should be renewed (with the piston) or rebored and the next oversize piston fitted. Valve guides damaged or worn. This can occur as a result of valve guide failure or old age. The emission of smoke is likely to occur when the throttle is closed rapidly after acceleration, for instance,

when changing gear. Renew the valve guides. Engine oil level too high. This increases the crankcase pressure and allows oil to be forced pass the piston rings. Often accompanied by seepage of oil at joints and oil seals. Abnormal crankcase pressure. This may be caused by blocked breather passages or hoses causing back-pressure at high engine revolutions.

14 Oil pressure indicator light

Clean the float chamber or renew the needle and, if necessary, the

valve seat.

comes

Engine lubrication system failure

_} _}

7 q

Engine oil defective. Oil pump shaft or locating pin sheared off from ingesting debris or seizing from lack of lubrication (low oil level) (Chapter 2). Engine oil screen clogged. Change oil and filter and service pick-up screen (Chapters 1 and 5). Engine oil level too low. Inspect for leak or other problem causing low oil level and add recommended lubricant. Refer to Daily (preride) checks Engine oil viscosity too low. Very old, thin oil, or an improper weight of oil used in engine. Change to correct lubricant. Refer to Chapter 1. Camshaft or journals worn. High wear causing drop in oil pressure. Replace cam and/or ‘bearings. Abnormal wear could be caused by

(caused by over-rich mixture)

Air filter element clogged. Clean or renew the element. Main jet loose or too large. Remove the float chamber to check for tightness of the jet. If the machine is used at high altitudes rejetting will be required to compensate for the lower atmospheric pressure. Cold start mechanism jammed on. Check that the mechanism works smoothly and correctly and that, where fitted, the operating cable is lubricated and not snagged. Fuel level too high. The fuel level is controlled by the float height which can increase as a result of wear or damage. Remove the float bowl and check the float height. Check also that floats have not punctured; a punctured float will loose buoyancy and allow an increased fuel level. Float valve needle stuck open. Caused by dirt or a worn valve.

on

oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or improper oil weight or type (Chapter 2). Crankshaft and/or bearings worn. Same problems as paragraph 5. Overhaul lower end. Refer to Chapter 2, crankshaft repair is a task

for a BMW dealer only. Relief valve stuck open. This causes the oil to be dumped back into the sump. Repair or replace (Chapter 5).

Electrical system failure Oil pressure switch defective. Check switch according to the procedures in Chapter 10. Replace if defective. Oil pressure indicator lamp wiring system defective. Check for pinched, shorted, disconnected or damaged wiring (Chapter 10).

15 Poor handling or roadholding Directional instability O Steering head bearing adjustment too tight. This will cause rolling or weaving at low speeds. Re-adjust the bearings.

O Steering head bearing worn or damaged. Correct adjustment of the bearing will prove impossible to achieve if wear or damage has occurred. Inconsistent handling will occur including rolling or weaving at low speed and poor directional control at indeterminate higher speeds. The steering head bearing should be dismantled for inspection and renewed if required. Lubrication should also be

carried out.

Swinging arm bearings worn. Difficulties in holding line, particularly when cornering or when changing power settings indicates wear in the swinging arm bearings. The swinging arm should be removed from the machine and the bearings renewed. Swinging arm flexing. The symptoms given in the preceding paragraph will also occur if the swinging arm fork flexes badly. This can be caused

by structural weakness

as a result of corrosion,

fatigue or impact damage, or because the rear wheel spindle is slack.

O Bearing races pitted or dented. Impact damage caused, perhaps,

Wheel bearings worn. Renew the worn bearings.

by an accident or riding over a pot-hole can cause indentation of the bearing, usually in one position. This should be noted as notchiness when the handlebars are turned. Renew and lubricate the bearings. _] Steering stem bent. This will occur only if the machine is subjected to a high impact such as hitting a curb or a pot-hole. The lower yoke/stem should be renewed; do not attempt to straighten the stem. _] Front or rear tyre pressures too low. (_] Front or rear tyre worn. General instability, high speed wobbles and skipping over white lines indicates that tyre renewal may be required. Tyre induced problems, in some _ machine/tyre combinations, can occur even when the tyre in question is by no means fully worn.

Loose wheel spokes. The spokes should be tightened evenly to maintain tension and trueness of the rim. Tyres unsuitable for machine. Not all available tyres will suit the characteristics of the frame and suspension, indeed, some tyres or

tyre combinations may cause a transformation in the handling characteristics. Check with importer or BMW dealer for currentlyapproved makes of tyre. If handling problems occur immediately after changing to a new tyre type or make, revert to the original tyres to see whether an improvement can be noted. In some instances a change to what are, in fact, suitable tyres may give rise to handling deficiences. In this case a thorough check should be made of all frame and suspension items which affect stability.

rerese Fault Finding 15 Poor handling or roadholding (continued) Steering bias to left or right Wheels out of alignment. This can be caused by impact damage to the frame, swinging arm, wheel spindles or front forks. Although occasionally a result of material failure or corrosion it is usually as a result of a crash. | Front forks twisted in the steering yokes. A light impact, for instance with a pot-hole or low curb, can twist the fork legs in the steering yokes without causing structural damage to the fork legs or the yokes themselves. Re-alignment can be made by loosening the yoke pinch bolts, wheel spindle and mudguard bolts. Re-align the wheel with the handlebars and tighten the bolts working upwards from the wheel spindle. This action should be carried out only when there is no chance that structural damage has occurred.

Handlebar vibrates or oscillates

O Tyres worn or out of balance. Either condition, particularly in the front tyre, will promote shaking of the fork assembly and thus the handlebars. A sudden onset of shaking can result if a balance weight is displaced during use. Tyres badly positioned on the wheel rims. A moulded line on each wall of a tyre is provided to allow visual verification that the tyre is correctly positioned on the rim. A check can be made by rotating the tyre; any misalignment will be immediately obvious. Wheels rims warped or damaged. Inspect the wheels for runout as described in Chapter 1. Swinging arm bearings worn. Renew the bearings. Wheel bearings worn. Renew the bearings. Steering head bearings incorrectly adjusted. Vibration is more likely to result from bearings which are too loose rather than too tight. Readjust the bearings. ia Loosen fork component fasteners. Loose nuts and bolts holding the fork legs, wheel spindle, mudguards or steering stem can promote shaking at the handlebars. Fasteners on running gear such as the forks and suspension should be check-tightened occasionally to prevent dangerous looseness of components occurring. O Engine mounting bolts loose. Tighten all fasteners.

Poor front fork performance

O

CO

Damping fluid level incorrect. If the fluid level is too low, poor suspension control will occur resulting in a general impairment of roadholding and early loss of tyre adhesion when cornering and braking. Too much oil is unlikely to change the fork characteristics unless severe overfilling occurs when the fork action will become stiffer and oil seal failure may occur. Damping oil viscosity incorrect. The damping action of the fork is directly related to the viscosity of the damping oil. The lighter the oil used, the less will be the damping action imparted. For general use,

use only one of the recommended types of oil, changing to a slightly higher or heavier oil only when a change in damping characteristic is required. Overworked

oil, or oil contaminated with

water which has found its way past the seals, should be renewed to restore the correct damping performance and to prevent bottoming of the forks. Damping components worn or corroded. Advanced normal wear of the fork internals is unlikely to occur until a very high mileage has been covered. Continual use of the machine with damaged oil seals which allows the ingress of water, or neglect, will lead to rapid corrosion and wear. Dismantle the forks for inspection and overhaul. See Chapter 7. Weak fork springs. Progressive fatigue of the fork springs, resulting in a reduced spring free length, will occur after extensive use. This condition will promote excessive fork dive under braking, and in its advanced form will reduce the at-rest extended length of the forks and thus the fork geometry. Renewal of the springs as a pair is the only satisfactory course of action. Heavier duty springs or preload spacers are available for some models. (] Bent stanchions or corroded stanchions. Both conditions will prevent correct telescoping of the fork legs, and in an advanced state can cause sticking of the fork in one position. In a mild form, corrosion will cause stiction of the fork thereby increasing the time the suspension takes to react to an uneven road surface. Bent fork stanchions should be attended to immediately because they

indicate that impact damage has occurred, and there is a danger that the forks will fail with disastrous consequences.

Front fork judder when braking Wear between the fork stanchions and the fork legs. Renewal of the affected components is required. Slack steering head bearings. Re-adjust the bearings. Warped brake disc or drum. If irregular braking action occurs fork judder can be induced in what are normally serviceable forks. Renew the damaged brake components.

Poor rear suspension performances [] Rear suspension unit damper worn out or leaking. The damping performance of most rear suspension units falls off with age. This is a gradual process, and thus may not be immediately obvious. Indications of poor damping include hopping of the rear end when cornering or braking, and a general loss of positive stability. See Chapter 8. Weak rear springs. If the suspension unit springs fatigue they will promote excessive pitching of the machine and reduce the ground clearance when cornering. Although replacement springs are available separately from the rear suspension damper unit it is probable that if spring fatigue has occurred the damper units will also require renewal. Swinging arm flexing or bearings worn. See ‘Directional instability’. Bent suspension unit damper rod. This is likely to occur only if the machine is dropped or if seizure of the piston occurs. If either happens the suspension units should be renewed, as a pair (where applicable).

16 Abnormal frame and suspension noise Front end noise Oil level low or too thin. This can cause a ‘spurting’ sound and is usually accompanied by irregular fork action (Chapter 7). Spring weak or broken. Makes a clicking or scraping sound. Fork oil will have a lot of metal particles in it (Chapter 7). Steering head bearings loose or damaged. Clicks when braking. Check, adjust or replace (Chapter 7). Fork clamps loose. Make sure all fork clamp pinch bolts are tight (Chapter 7).

Fork stanchion bent. Good possibility if machine has been dropped. Repair or replace tube (Chapter 7). Excessive play in damper assembly. See Chapter 7.

Rear suspension noise _] Fluid level too low. Leakage of a suspension unit, usually evident by oil on the outer surfaces, can cause a spurting noise. The suspension units should be renewed, as a pair (where applicable). |] Defective rear suspension unit with internal damage. Renew the suspension units, as a pair (where applicable).

Fault Finding

reres7

17 Brake problems Brakes are spongy or ineffective - disc brakes Air in brake circuit. This is only likely to happen in service due to neglect in checking the fluid level or because a leak has developed. The problem should be identified and the brake system bled of air. Pad worn. Check the pad wear against the wear lines provided or measure the friction material thickness and renew the pads if necessary. Contaminated pads. Cleaning pads which have been contaminated with oil, grease or brake fluid is unlikely to prove successful; the pads should be renewed. Pads glazed. This is usually caused by overheating. The surface of the pads may be roughened using glass-paper or a fine file. Brake fluid deterioration. A brake which on initial operation is firm but rapidly becomes spongy in use may be failing due to water

contamination of the fluid. The fluid should be drained and then the system refilled and bled. Master cylinder seal failure. Wear or damage of master cylinder internal parts will prevent pressurisation of the brake fluid. Overhaul the master cylinder unit. Caliper seal failure. This will almost certainly be obvious by loss of fluid, a lowering of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir and contamination of the brake pads and caliper. Overhaul the caliper assembly. Brake lever or pedal improperly adjusted. Adjust the clearance between the lever end and master cylinder plunger to take up lost motion, as recommended in Chapter 1(/6, /7 up to 1980 only) .

[_] Caliper pivot seized (/6. /7 up to 1980 only).

Brake drag - disc brakes |_| Disc warped. The disc must be renewed. Caliper pivot, piston or pads corroded. The brake caliper assembly is vulnerable to corrosion due to water and dirt, and unless cleaned at regular intervals and lubricated in the recommended manner, will

become sticky in operation. (ia Piston seal deteriorated. The seal is designed to return the piston in the caliper to the retracted position when the brake is released. Wear or old age can, affect this function. The caliper should be overhauled if this occurs. Brake pad damaged. Pad material separating from the backing plate due to wear or faulty manufacture. Renew the pads. Faulty installation of a pad also will cause dragging. O Wheel spindle bent. The spindle may be straightened if no structural damage has occurred. 0 Brake lever or pedal not returning. Check that the lever or pedal works smoothly throughout its operating range and does not snag on any adjacent cycle parts. Lubricate the pivot if necessary.

Brake lever or pedal pulsates in operation - disc

|] Brake pads fitted incorrectly or undersize. Longitudinal play in the pads due to omission of the locating springs (where fitted) or because pads of the wrong size have been fitted will cause a single tapping noise every time the brake is operated. Inspect the pads for correct installation and security.

Brakes are spongy or ineffective - drum brakes Brake cable deterioration. Damage to the outer cable by stretching or being trapped will give a spongy feel to the brake lever. The cable should be renewed. A cable which has become corroded due to old age or neglect of lubrication will partially seize making operation very heavy. Lubrication at this stage may overcome the problem but the fitting of a new cable is recommended. |] Worn brake linings. Determine lining wear using the external brake wear indicator on the brake backplate, or by removing the wheel and withdrawing the brake backplate. Renew the shoe/lining units as a pair if the linings are worn below the recommended limit. Worn brake camshaft. Wear between the camshaft and the bearing surface will reduce brake feel and reduce operating efficiency. Renewal of one or both items will be required to rectify the fault. Worn brake cam and shoe ends. Renew the worn components. Linings contaminated with dust or grease. Any accumulations of dust should be cleaned from the brake assembly and drum using a petrol dampened cloth. Do not blow or brush off the dust because it is asbestos based and thus harmful if inhaled. Light contamination from grease can be removed from the surface of the brake linings using a solvent; attempts at removing heavier contamination are less likely to be successful because some of the lubricant will have been absorbed by the lining material which will severely reduce the braking performance.

Brake drag - drum brakes =

Incorrect adjustment. Re-adjust the brake operating mechanism. Drum warped or oval. This can result from overheating, impact or » uneven tension of the wheel spokes. The condition is difficult to correct, although if slight ovality only occurs, skimming the surface of the brake drum can provide a cure. This is work for a specialist engineer. Renewal of the complete wheel hub is normally the only satisfactory solution. Weak brake shoe return springs. This will prevent the brake lining/shoe units from pulling away from the drum surface once the brake is released. The springs should be renewed. Brake camshaft, lever pivot or cable poorly lubricated. Failure to attend to regular lubrication of these areas will increase operating resistance which, when compounded, may cause tardy operation and poor release movement.

Brake lever or pedal pulsates in operation - drum brakes

brakes

Drums warped or oval. This can result from overheating, impact or

| Disc warped or irregularly worn. The disc must be renewed. _] Wheel spindle bent. The spindle may be straightened provided no structural damage has occurred.

uneven spoke tension. This condition is difficult to correct, although if slight ovality only occurs, skimming the surface of the drum can provide a cure. This is work for a specialist engineer. Renewal of the hub is normally the only satisfactory solution.

Disc brake noise | Brake squeal. Squealing can be caused by dust on the pads, usually in combination with glazed pads, or other contamination from oil, grease, brake fluid or corrosion. Persistent squealing which cannot be traced to any of the normal causes can often be cured by applying a thin layer of high temperature silicone grease to the rear of the pads. Make absolutely certain that no grease is allowed to contaminate the braking surface of the pads.

(_] Glazed pads. This is usually caused

by high temperatures or

contamination. The pad surfaces may be roughened using glasspaper or a fine file. If this approach does not effect a cure, the pads should be renewed.

_} Disc warped. This can cause a chattering, clicking or intermittent squeal and is usually accompanied by a pulsating brake lever or pedal or uneven braking. The disc must be renewed.

Drum brake noise Drum warped or oval. This can cause intermittent rubbing of the brake linings against the drum. See ‘Brake lever or pedal pulsates in operation - drum brakes’. Brake linings glazed. This condition, usually accompanied by heavy lining dust contamination, often induces brake squeal. The surface

of the linings may be roughened using glass-paper or a fine file.

Brake induced fork judder [] Worn front fork stanchions and legs, or worn or badly adjusted steering head bearings. These conditions, combined with uneven or pulsating braking as described in ‘Brake lever or pedal pulsates in operation - disc brakes’ will induce more or less judder when the brakes are applied, dependent on the degree of wear and poor brake operation. Attention should be given to both areas of malfunction.

reress Fault Finding 18 Electrical problems oO Earth failure. Check that the main earth strap from the battery is

Battery dead or weak |] Battery faulty. Battery life should not be expected to exceed 3 to 4 years, particularly where a starter motor is used regularly. Gradual sulphation of the plates and sediment deposits will reduce the battery performance. Plate and insulator damage can often occur as a result of vibration.

Complete

power failure, or intermittent

failure, may be due to a broken battery terminal. Lack of electrolyte will prevent the battery maintaining charge. Battery leads making poor contact. Remove the battery leads and clean them and the terminals, removing all traces of corrosion and tarnish. Reconnect the leads and apply a coating of petroleum jelly to the terminals. Load excessive. If additional items such as spot lamps, are fitted, which increase the total electrical load above the maximum alternator output, the battery will fail to maintain full charge. Reduce the electrical load to suit the electrical capacity. Regulator/diode board failure. Alternator generating coils open-circuit or shorted. Charging circuit shorting or open circuit. This may be caused by frayed or broken wiring, dirty connectors or a faulty ignition switch. The system should be tested in a logical manner. See Fault Finding Equipment in the Reference Section of this Manual.

Battery overcharged (} Diode board/regulator faulty. Overcharging is indicated if the battery becomes hot or it is noticed that the electrolyte level falls repeatedly between checks. In extreme cases the battery will boil causing corrosive gases and electrolyte to be emitted through the vent pipes. Battery wrongly matched to the electrical circuit. Ensure that the specified battery is fitted to the machine.

Total electrical failure Fuse blown. Check the main fuse. If a fault has occurred, it must be rectified before a new fuse is fitted.

Battery faulty. See ‘Battery overcharged’.

O

securely affixed to the gearbox and is making a good contact. Certain models with painted engines have an additional earth strap from the starter motor cover to the ignition coil bracket - check the security of the strap. Ignition switch or power circuit failure. Check for current flow

through the battery positive lead (red) to the ignition switch. Check the ignition switch for continuity.

Circuit failure

O Cable failure. Refer to the machine’s wiring diagram and check the circuit for continuity. Open circuits are a result of loose or corroded connections, either at terminals or in-line connectors, or because of

broken wires. Occasionally, the core of a wire will break without there being any apparent damage to the outer plastic cover.

Switch failure. All switches may be checked for continuity in each switch position, after referring to the switch position boxes incorporated in the wiring diagram for the machine. Switch failure may be a result of mechanical breakage, corrosion or water. Fuse blown. Refer to the wiring diagram to check whether or not a circuit fuse is fitted. Replace the fuse, if blown, only after the fault has been identified and rectified.

Bulbs blowing repeatedly (| Vibration failure. This is often an inherent fault related to the natural vibration characteristics of the engine and frame and is, thus,

difficult to resolve. Modifications of the lamp mounting, to change the damping characteristics may help. Intermittent earth. Repeated failure of one bulb, particularly where the bulb is fed directly from the generator, indicates that a poor earth exists somewhere in the circuit. Check that a good contact is available at each earthing point in the circuit. Reduced voltage. Where a quartz-halogen bulb is fitted the voltage to the bulb should be maintained or early failure of the bulb will

occur.

Do not overload

the system

with

additional

electrical

equipment in excess of the system’s power capacity and ensure that all circuit connections are maintained clean and tight.

Fault Finding Equipment Checking engine compression

@ Low compression will result in exhaust smoke, heavy oil consumption, poor starting and poor performance. A compression test will provide useful information about an engine’s condition and if performed regularly, can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. @ A compression gauge will be required, along with an adapter to suit the spark plug hole thread size. Note that the screw-in type

gauge/adapter set up is preferable to the rubber cone type.

@ Before carrying out the test, first check the valve clearances as described in Chapter 1. 1 Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then stop it and remove the spark plug(s), taking care not to scald your hands on the hot components. 2 Install the gauge adapter and compression gauge in No. 1 cylinder spark plug hole (see illustration 1). 3 On kickstart-equipped motorcycles, make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then open the throttle fully and kick the engine over a couple of times until the gauge reading stabilises. 4 On motorcycles with electric start only, the procedure will differ depending on the nature of the ignition system. Flick the engine kill switch (engine stop switch) to OFF and turn

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