Your Career as a Fashion Designer [2013 ed.]

Citation preview

CAREER AS A

FASHION DESIGNER

Institute Research Number 99 ISBN 1-58511-099-X DOT Number 142.061-018 O*Net SOC Code 27-1022.00

CAREER AS A

FASHION DESIGNER Tommy Hilfiger Norma Kamali Ralph Lauren Donna Karan Mark Jacobs Betsey Johnson THESE ARE JUST A FEW OF THE FASHION DESIGNERS BEHIND EACH SEASON’S

hottest looks. Their names are stamped on our clothes, inside and out. Their logos are splashed across scarves, sweatshirts, and handbags. Their names carry so much weight, they design everything from socks to bed linens to car interiors.

2

These famous fashion designers and many more not-so-famous designers influence everything we wear from underwear to overcoats. We see their creations in fashion magazines, in the movies and on television, in department store windows, in catalogs, on mannequins in fancy shops, and on the racks in lowly discount stores. Most people associate fashion designers with the kind of high fashion seen only on the runway. But fashion designers range from the handful of haute couture designers who create exclusive designs for high fashion salons (where most of us can’t afford to shop) to those who work in the garment industry creating clothing for the mass market that will be worn by millions of Americans. The fact is that every piece of clothing we wear – steel-toed work boots, flannel bathrobe, plain white boxer shorts, or sparkly evening gown – has to be designed by someone. That someone, famous or not, is a fashion designer. Fashion designers create the fashions for men, women, and children to wear morning and night, at work and at play. Most specialize in one particular type of clothing, such as bridal gowns, swimwear, lingerie, infant’s clothing, uniforms, or men’s suits. They work for fashion salons, textile manufacturers, big chain department stores, and pattern manufacturers. Some prefer to freelance and build their own clientele of individual customers, specialty shops, and manufacturers. A fashion designer stays on top of current fashion trends the same way we all do – by reading magazines, checking out what the actors are wearing on television, and window-shopping. Only the top designers get to be fashion leaders and create completely original designs. Most designers adapt existing designs according to well-established guidelines and trends. Anyone interested in this career should be able to draw, have a good eye for color and form, be able to sew, and have an obsession for fashion. It is possible to enter the field with just a high school diploma, but it is not recommended. Fashion design is considered by many to be a glamorous career and it attracts many talented people. The competition is stiff for beginners. You should have at least a two-year degree in fashion design and a good portfolio packed with examples your great ideas.

3

A career in fashion design has a lot going for it. It is exciting, creative, and challenging. The educational requirements are minimal and the earnings are good, and for some very successful designers, extraordinary. The job market is small, but growing steadily. There are opportunities for international travel. And if you have the talent, there is always a chance for fame and fortune.

WHAT YOU CAN DO NOW HIGH SCHOOL STUDENTS INTERESTED IN FASHION DESIGN SHOULD TAKE AS MANY

art classes as possible. Being able to sketch is essential, but don’t limit yourself to drawing class. A course in art history might seem irrelevant now, but what you learn there will be very useful in your career. Naturally, any fashion or design courses are a must. Even if you already know how to sew, take any available sewing classes. Other helpful courses include math, business, speech, English, and foreign language – especially French or Spanish. Read. Follow the trends by reading all the fashion magazines you can get your hands on. Subscribe to the bible of the fashion industry, Women’s Wear Daily. Professional fashion designers (and everyone else in the fashion industry) read it religiously to stay in the know about what’s going on in the industry and to keep up with every-changing trends. Experiment Even if you aren’t sure what you’re doing, try your hand at designing and making some clothes. Pick up some cheap clothing at the nearest thrift shop or yard sales. Take them apart and redesign them into new shapes with different trims. It is a great way to exercise your creativity. Plus, you will learn a lot about how clothes are constructed. Explore Visit art galleries, attend fashion shows, pay attention to what trend setters are wearing on TV, and make regular trips to the mall to check out what’s new. If there is a garment factory in your city, ask your school guidance counselor to help you arrange for a tour so you can see the pros at work. Work A job in the summer or after school in a clothing store will give you an education in fashion merchandising. A job in a fabric store would provide an excellent opportunity to learn about textiles, notions, trims, and patterns.

4

HISTORY OF THE PROFESSION PEO PLE HAVE BEEN WEAR ING CLOTHING SINCE THE BEGINNING OF TIME, BUT AT

first putting on clothing was solely a practical matter. Today, animal prints are the rage and no wardrobe would be complete without a leopard print dress or faux fur jacket. But cave men and women had no idea how stylish they were when they wrapped themselves in real animal pelts – they just wanted to stay warm. Clothing remained primarily utilitarian for thousands of years, with most garments being handmade at home. Perhaps the first fashion maven in history was Cleopatra, but it was her makeup and accessories that made a statement, not the shapeless fabric draped like curtains. Nonetheless, the Queen of the Nile set a historical precedent – political figures, royalty, and other cultural icons have since influenced what we wear, setting fashion trends throughout the centuries. Fashion design as a profession started in the 1600s and it began right where today’s fashion center of the world is – in France. Around the middle of the century, it was the famous French King Louis XIV who said that “fashion is a mirror.” Louis was renowned for his style, which included heavy use of extravagant laces and velvets. It was an indulgence only the exceedingly rich could afford. For a while at least, fashion seemed destined to be reserved for the aristocracy and privileged classes. But by the 1700s, fashion magazines were publishing the latest styles so even common folks could see what was going in inside the French Court – though they could only dream of wearing such finery. The first celebrated fashion designer was also French. She was Rose Bertin, a French milliner who dressed Marie Antoinette in the late 18th century. Women’s fashions during the French Revolution were heavily influenced by Bertin’s designs. Wealthy women and professional dressmakers paid big bucks to anyone who could provide sketches of the royal wardrobes before the popular press got them. Soon after the turn of the century, fashion design came to be defined by eras. The Georgian Era, named after George III, lasted from 1800 to 1820. Fashions from this era were known as Regency Fashion. It was based on classical principles; only the ornamentation changed. Greek inspired borders evolved to more exotic Egyptian, Spanish, and oriental decor inspired by Napoleon’s expeditions. Near the end of the Georgian Era, Gothic influences dissolved the classical lines, making way for the Romantic Era. The romantic spirit lingered until 1850. 5

All garments were made by hand until 1846 when Elias invented the sewing machine. Soon, fashion houses were setting up factories where fashionable clothing could be produced quickly and in large quantities. For the first time, even ordinary people could afford to be fashionable. Up until this time, fashion designers were almost all women. But in 1858, an English tailor named Charles Frederick Worth opened a fashion house in Paris. He had impeccable references, having been the couturier for Empress Eugenie (consort of Napoleon III). In his Paris salon, Worth created designs for actresses and other wealthy celebrity clients who could afford to have clothing designed specifically for them. Worth is considered the first modern couturier for several reasons. He was the first designer to select his own fabrics rather than using fabrics provided by clients. He was also the first to display his designs on live models. The Victorian Era of the 1800s lasted for 64 years. Throughout this period, fashions evolved from bustles to Gibson Girls to tailor made suits. The Victorian Era and the 19th century ended with a bang in a period known as the Naughty Nineties. Next came Art Nouveau with its graceful linear curves in dress, decorative arts and design. This was the first style to dominate the world of design in all forms including fashion, furniture, fine art, jewelry, architecture, and home décor accessories. Such major design styles that set the tone for fashionable living are rare. Art Deco of the 1930s and Space Age (also known as Atomic) of the 1950s were the only two to come close to having the all-encompassing influence of Art Nouveau. Erté, considered the father of Art Deco, was not a fashion designer and yet he influenced nearly all fashion designers between 1915 and 1936. From 1939 to 1945, fashion was affected most by the World War. Clothing in Great Britain was actually rationed under the Civilian Clothing Utility Scheme. Garments were austere and practical, reflecting the military garments of wartime. When the war was over, fashion bounced back with lavish use of fabrics in full-skirted dresses and Hollywood glamour. One of history’s most celebrated fashion designers, Christian Dior launched his new line in 1947. Life magazine dubbed it “The New Look.” It was one of the longest lasting “looks” any designer has ever produced, remaining fashionable for about 10 years.

6

The 1950s brought huge changes to all areas of life in America. For the first time in history, fashion was specifically designed for young men and women, coined “teenagers.” Rock and roll icons like Elvis Presley and James Dean inspired teenage fashion. Jeans made their debut as a fashion staple, and separates were popular for the first time because they were comfortable for dancing to lively music. Haute couture took a back seat to ready-to-wear from 1950 onward. French designers put up the most resistance to the idea of fashion for the masses, but even there, prêt-à-porter (ready to wear) eventually outsold haute couture salons. It wasn’t long until fashion designers figured out that they could reach a much larger market (and make a lot more money) by getting into the retail market themselves. During the Swinging Sixties in London, designer Mary Quant opened a string of individual retail outlets on both sides of the pond. She appealed to the teenage population by producing youthful clothes for the biggest market of all time – baby boomers. Throughout the second half of the 20th century, fashion was defined by decades. The 1960s were filled with Op Art and mini skirts. The 1970s started with the peasant look popularized by hippies and ended with the flashy nightclub looks of Disco Fever. The 1980s had two main styles, The New Romantics and Power Dressing. Diana the Princess of Wales was the fashion leader for the New Romantics, moving the feminine look into mainstream fashion. Meanwhile, yuppies everywhere followed the advice in John Molloy’s Dress For Success. The book had women wearing suits with shoulder pads and men wearing red suspenders and ties. The two looks were represented by then UK Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher and Princess Diana. While Diana was seen on magazine covers in flowing chiffon, Thatcher was seen on daily TV in her structured power suits that demanded respect for her authority. The century ended with a glamour backlash. Grunge only lasted a year – deconstructionism had seams and zippers on the outside of garments and minimalism reduced clothing to neutral tones in sculptural shapes. Gone were the glitz and glamour of the 1980s. In was the purism of neutral tints and shades of black, white, gray, and beige with little or no jewelry. Designers like Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani, and Calvin Klein produced “modern classics” within a framework of pure function and natural simplicity.

7

Fashion trends have a way of returning. There is a saying that if you keep something in your closet long enough, it will come back into style. Some designers use styles of bygone eras to create entirely new lines. For example, in the 1990s, fashion designers Ghost and Tom Ford found success by brushing up old looks from the 1960s. They added different trims and developed variations to popularize the “new” BoHo style. One thing is certain in fashion. It is always changing. New fashion ideas come from music, television, and world events. A music video or single hit movie can spawn a fashion rage. Ray-Ban sold millions of sunglasses after the movie Men in Black. And parents shudder when their young daughters dress for school looking like Brittany Spears.

WHERE YOU WILL WORK NEW YORK CITY, SAN FRANCISCO, AND LOS ANGELES ARE THE MAJOR FASHION

centers in the US. These cities are home to large and small companies that employ the majority of American fashion designers. You can find some design jobs in Chicago, Dallas, and other big cities, but only in very small numbers. A few fashion designers are lucky enough to work in large fashion houses such as Liz Claiborne or Calvin Klein. It is usually difficult to get hired by one of the top fashion houses because there is so much competition for a limited number of coveted positions. There are however, some major designer labels that have developed a need for more fashion designers because they now also make clothes for the mass market. Donna Karan, for example, has a secondary line of lower priced clothing that sells under the label DKNY. Giorgio Armani has an equally successful secondary label for men called Emporio. Most fashion designers do not work for famous design houses nor do they work in high fashion. Most work for large garment manufacturers that produce clothing for the mass market under multiple labels. Many are inhouse designers for major retailers such as K-Mart, Target, and JC Penney. Small specialty shops and boutiques also have their own fashion designers on staff. They create designs for off-the-rack garments as well as filling custom orders for customers who are willing to pay for exclusive designs that no one else will be able to buy.

8

Not all fashion designers work for apparel manufacturers. Fashion designers work in a number of different industries designing textiles, paper patterns for home sewing, shoes, and various accessories. A small number work for entertainment production companies as costume designers for television, movies, theater, and ballet. Fashion designers have even more into the home furnishings field, which is now commonly known as “home fashions.” They design items like bed and bath linens, draperies, and rugs. The work environment for designers varies depending on the industry and size and type of employer. Some spend pleasant days with one or two co-workers in quiet and spacious rooms with ample natural light. Many more work in crowded workrooms filled with big tables, noisy cutting and sewing machines, and minimal ventilation. Fortunately, fashion designers do not spend all their time in their workrooms. They are often seen out and about, getting ideas and checking out the competition. They visit art museums, stores, showrooms, conferences, and fashion shows. Many travel to other cities or even other countries to show their new lines to buyers. Many fashion designers work as freelancers. They work in their own studios and also spend time meeting with buyers, sales reps, production workers, and other designers.

THE WORK YOU WILL DO FASHION DESIGNERS CREATE ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS AND ACCESSORIES. MOST

work in men’s, women’s, or children’s wear for their entire careers. Many specialize in one type of clothing or accessory such as maternity wear, suits, lingerie, handbags, or shoes. There are a small number of high-fashion designers who cater directly to individual clients. These are the designers you know by name, the celebrity trendsetters for the industry. Everyone follows their lead in terms of silhouette, colors, fabrics, and trims that will be in style each season. Some of these self-employed designers head their own fashion houses; others develop signature lines for specialty stores, high-end boutiques, or upscale department stores. At this level, there is glamour and excitement, but it is also extremely competitive. Top designers possess a unique combination of originality, artistry, technical expertise, networking skills, and business savvy.

9

The majority of fashion designers work for apparel manufacturers. They generally follow the fashion trends set by the high profile designers rather than create original styles of their own. They work under the direction of their employers, adapting designs for the mass market to meet the tastes and price requirements of customers. A large garment factory will typically employ a staff of designers including a head designer, several assistant designers, and one or more sample makers. In some cases, designers are involved in every step of the production. They come up with the ideas, choose the fabrics and trims, do cost estimates and pricing of finished products, and work cooperatively with those who actually make the garments. The workroom is home base for fashion designers. But designers also spend a great deal of time exploring and conducting research. They visit textile companies to learn about new fabrics and trims. They browse through retail stores, read fashion magazines, visit showrooms, and attend fashion shows. The purpose is to not only see what is available, but to get a feel for what customers are buying, or rejecting. For inspiration, museums and art galleries are great sources of ideas about color and composition. Fashion designers keep their eyes open wherever they go, taking notice of what people are wearing in the real world. Very often, designs are based on street trends. Back in the workroom, everything begins with a sketch. Ideas for original designs can come from just about anything – cultural trends, pop stars, exotic vacations, old movies, magazines, current events, and new textiles. Sketches are sometimes done on a computer, but most designers still prefer to create rough sketches with pencil and paper. Working either alone or with a design team, the idea is fleshed out. The designer combines basic dressmaking and tailoring principles with flat pattern work and draping techniques to develop the design. The final design is given to a pattern maker to create samples. Pattern pieces are drawn on paper, then cut out of muslin. The muslin pieces are sewn together by a seamstress into a rough mock-up that is fitted on a real-life model. The designer examines the sample garment both on and off the model. If the sample doesn’t look right, it is changed until the design achieves the desired effect. Once the design itself is acceptable, the pattern pieces are modified, features are added, and a rough mock-up of the completed design is made. The design team then chooses materials and writes specifications for the production workers that might include the color schemes or specific instructions for construction. 10

Next, a fit technician makes the final prototype and the pattern maker creates the patterns that will be used for mass production. The designs are now officially part of the company’s line. The sample maker creates pieces for sales reps to present to wholesale buyers. High-end designs are displayed at showings for buyers and the press, supervised by the designer. Major designers present their lines at fashion shows twice a year. The majority of clothing is sold in the showrooms with no live models, only racks and maybe a few mannequins. The entire process, from idea to production of completed products, happens quickly. As a rule, there are very tight deadlines to meet for delivery to stores. This all happens four times each year. The fashion seasons are spring/summer, fall/winter, cruise (for those lucky people who head for tropical beaches in January), and holiday (fashions for special occasions during November and December). For each season, a designer creates a line with 50 to 150 styles. The lines are started about six months prior to the clothes appearing in stores – and stores start stocking new fashions up to three months before a calendar season actually begins. That means the designer could be working on new styles that won’t be worn for nearly a year. This can be a little tricky since the public’s taste can change at any time. Designers have to stay abreast of trends, but not too far ahead. If styles are out of step with public taste, they will be rejected and that could spell disaster for the fashion house selling them. It’s a balancing act that can be stressful.

The Design Team Fashion houses have a hierarchy. Beginners without design degrees can start as gophers or as trainees in design departments, but it can take years working for minimum wages to move up into a real design position. Those with design degrees can move much more quickly up the career ladder. Most start in one of these positions: Pattern makers – makes the patterns that will be used to produce the designer’s clothing line Pattern graders – modifies the pattern pieces to allow for size changes Trend researcher – spots new trends and ideas by conducting market research

11

Sketch artist – draws up designs either freehand or on computer-aided design programs (CAD/CAM) Spec and fit technicians – creates the final production samples in the correct size and fit After about two years in one of these positions, a beginner can move up to assistant designer. As the title implies, the main function of an assistant designer is to help the designer. Job tasks might include making the first patterns and samples, assembling presentation boards, gathering swatches, and supervising sample makers. It is usually the assistant designer’s responsibility to maintain the design library and help solve any technical or creative problems that come up during the design process. An assistant designer with proven ability can expect to be promoted to full designer status within four to six years. An assistant designer helps develop other people’s ideas, but a designer has the creative freedom to work on original ideas. Fashion designers are expected to know what will sell in a given market with an acceptable profit margin. They confer directly with company management and work closely with the sales department to develop marketing plans. In large firms, talented designers with management skills can become head designers. A head designer usually has several assistants and oversees the entire design department. Not all designers are capable of successfully juggling creative and administrative duties.

Specialties There are many different kinds of wearing apparel and accessories and most designers specialize in just one. A specialty might be a general type of clothing such as bridal wear, sports wear, or handbags. There are also specialty designers who focus on particular types of clothing such as sweaters, swimwear, or athletic shoes. One very special field is theatrical or costume design. It is somewhat limited, but it is perfect for a talented designer with a strong interest in theater, film, or other performing arts such as ballet. It requires more preparation - at least a bachelor’s degree in fashion, costume design, or theater. Creating costumes for performers offers a unique challenge. It is not about making a wardrobe that is functional or pretty. Costumes need to visually express a particular point in time, a place, and the emotional context. In the case of dancers, the fabrics and designs have to move in a certain way, too. Most theatrical costume designers work on a contract basis, usually for one particular movie or ballet 12

production at a time. A costume designer is a part of a production team that may include the director, makeup artists, and set designers. Together, they create a cohesive visual effect. Along with the rest of the team, the costume designer studies the script to learn about the characters they will be dressing. Perhaps more than any other type of design, costume design requires research. Wardrobe for a contemporary television show set in New York City might not take much research, but what about a movie set in medieval Spain? Would you know how to create an authentic set of armor? A good costume designer strives to be historically accurate. He/she prepares by studying up on the people who lived in the time period and location where the story takes place, paying particular attention to the clothing, accessories, and activities. The responsibilities of the costume designer vary depending on the size of the production. Most of the time, they work closely with the performers, doing fittings and alterations themselves. Sometimes they supervise dressers, assistants who set out the costumes and help the performers change. On movie locations, costume designers are also responsible for protecting the wardrobes from bad weather.

13

FASHION DESIGNERS TELL THEIR OWN STORIES I Am a Lead Designer for a Clothing Company “I’ve been in the business for over 20 years now and it still excites me like nothing else could. I jump out of bed each morning looking forward to the day’s work ahead. When I first graduated from college, I was very full of myself, convinced I’d take the fashion world by storm. Rather than look for a job in the industry, I immediately put my name on my own label and began as an independent designer. My lofty dreams soon came crashing down to earth. Design school is great for learning the skills of the trade and fostering creativity. But what they don’t tell you is this is a tough business. You have to plot your course, pay your dues, and work your way up into the spotlight. After falling on my face, I had two choices: give up or come up with a practical plan of action. I chose the latter. I spent six months just studying the industry to get a sense of how it works in the real world – something I should have done before I even went to design school. I talked to people at every level, from shipping department clerks to creative directors. I got quite an education! But rather than feel demoralized by the reality of this business, I became more convinced than ever that there was a place for me and I could be successful. The thing you have to understand is this: you don’t go from Point A (school) to Point B (famous designer). However, the good news is that there are numerous ways to approach this career. You just have to be willing to do whatever it takes to get where you want to go. I started looking for job opportunities that would put me one step closer to my goal. My first job was working as an illustrator for an ad agency that specialized in the fashion industry. Other jobs along the way included buyer for an upscale department store, art director for a group of business newsletters (only one of which was fashion related), costume designer for a small ballet company, and interior designer for a chain of trendy clubs. Each of these jobs was a stepping stone. And in each position, I learned something new and valuable about the business of fashion. 14

Today I am the lead designer for a women’s sportswear company. My name is not on my designs, but I am working for a top label. I am proud just to be working here with some of the most talented and respected people in the industry. I’ve been in the business for over 20 years now and I still have a passion for my work that borders on obsession. That’s what I call success.”

I Am an Independent Textile Designer “Walk through any store that sells T-shirts and you will probably see my work. I am essentially a graphic designer who happens to work exclusively on textiles. Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you know that clothing has become an advertising medium over the past 15 years or so. What started out as a niche specialty for me has become a huge industry unto itself. Graphic prints are everywhere. Companies of all kinds salivate over the idea of getting people to wear their company logos and slogans. And the real kicker is consumers are actually willing to pay for the privilege of being walking billboards. I’ve always known I wanted a career in the arts. Even as a child, I had a passion for art. I blindly went to a fine arts school, but was disappointed by the lack of substance. I almost had my parents convinced to support me while I lived in Paris for a couple of years instead. I still think I would have learned more from street artists in Paris than fine art classes. I guess I’ll never know. Fortunately, one of my professors intervened. He recognized my frustration and was honest enough to guide me out of fine arts and into graphic design. He also strongly advised me to concentrate on advertising design. I thought that was just plain sacrilegious, but I did as he suggested. Following this man’s guidance was the best thing I could have done. For two years, I studied topics I never even considered before. Who knew courses in marketing, public relations, typography, and business management were just what I needed? What I learned in those classes did more to prepare me for a career in design than a hundred art classes ever could.

15

My best advice to anyone interested in a career as a designer is to learn as much as you can about the business and marketing aspects of the industry. That goes double for anyone who wants to be an independent designer. Pay attention to the basics. Learn to write. How can you get anywhere if you can’t write a convincing proposal or a professional email message? Business math will seem like a breeze compared to algebra and trig. But it is a class that will provide the skills you will use every day throughout your career. A designer’s education never ends either. If you expect to succeed, you must be prepared to stay on top of trends in the industry. That includes both the design end and the technology. Being an independent designer isn’t the easiest route to take, but for some of us, it’s the only way. People like me are not cut out for the corporate life. I enjoy my freedom far too much. It’s exciting, too. I never know who is going to be walking through the door next or what kind of project I’ll be working on next week. There is so much variety and there is always something new. I have all kinds of clients from big beer companies to local nonprofit groups. And being independent means I can go anywhere, live anywhere, work anywhere. With today’s technology, I could take orders, create my designs, and deliver the final product – all from a tropical beach in Fiji.”

I Am an In-House Fashion Designer “I think I was destined for a career in fashion design. I was raised by my Irish grandmother in a very frugal household. She never shopped in clothing stores, only in fabric stores. She taught me to sew when I was five years old on a treadle machine that she had converted to electric somewhere along the way. By the time I was 10, I had taken over the responsibility of making all my own clothes. I never even owned a store-bought dress until I was 16. When I was in high school, I was embarrassed to tell anybody that all my clothes were homemade, But at the same time, I was keenly aware of what was fashionable and learned to put my own creative stamp on everything I made. My friends took notice of my wardrobe and when they asked where I shopped, I reluctantly told the truth. Much to my surprise, they thought it was really cool that 16

I made my own clothes. Soon all my friends wanted me to make their clothes, too. At first, I did so as a favor. Eventually, I got up the nerve to ask for money. I couldn’t believe my good fortune. While others kids were spending mind-numbing afternoons working in the local fast food joints, I was earning a lot more by doing something I loved, something I had been doing since childhood. By the time I graduated from high school, I had saved up enough to go to the Art Institute of Dallas. It was a two-year program. I managed to get one internship for the summer, putting up garment exhibitions for a local manufacturer of women’s wear. It was enjoyable work and I gained some good experience. More importantly, I made some contacts that later led me to most of my jobs. My first job after graduation, I have to admit, was a total yawn. It was in a garment factory, where all I did all day was sew care labels onto shirts. Fortunately, I was only there for a few months. My next job was better, working as a sample cutter at a major budget-wear manufacturer. Because the company was so big, there were more opportunities to move up. My next step was pattern maker and then assistant designer. Because I was working with a budget line of clothing, I came in contact with buyers from all the major discount department stores. It was through a buyer that I learned of an opening for an in-house designer at one of the biggest fashion chain stores in the country. I’ve been working here ever since. I love my job. I spend my days shopping for fabrics and findings, sketching and brainstorming. I keep it flexible, never pushing myself to be creative within a set schedule, but always keeping busy. My advice to anyone considering this career is to learn as much as you can about the industry. Look at all the different aspects like merchandising, journalism, window dressing, and advertising. Explore other design fields, too, like food styling, identity design, and interior design. They are all related, utilizing very similar skills and knowledge of visual aesthetics. The broader your exposure to all things design-related, the better. 17

Choose your school carefully. Design schools tend to encourage creativity and neglect the business and technical aspects. Some are the opposite, focusing on technical skills at the expense of creativity. Ideally, you should get a good balance of both. In any case, design school is only the beginning. You will learn the basics of the job and your diploma will get your foot in the door. What is more important though, is the practical experience you will get from actually working in the field. That is where the real training is and if you’re doing your job well, you will never stop learning.”

PERSONAL QUALIFICATIONS FASHION DESIGN IS PRACTICAL OR APPLIED ART THAT INVOLVES WORKING WITH

forms, designs, and patterns. It requires a strong sense of the esthetic, a sense of balance and proportion, and an appreciation for beauty. Fashion designers naturally have a strong sense of color and shape. Creativity and imagination are essential. Coming up with the occasional design idea is not enough – even if it’s a terrific idea. You will need to generate dozens of ideas and within a limited period of time. Originality is always a good thing, but there are limits to how original you can be in fashion design. You will always be working within the boundaries of current fashion trends and the buyer’s tastes. And most of the time you will be adapting other people’s designs. Your challenge will be to come up with unusual or clever ideas to make those designs your own. You will be sketching constantly so you will need to have some artistic abilities. You should be able to draw freehand and have a good grasp of the human form. Being able to draw on the computer is becoming increasingly important, but hand-sketching ability is still a big advantage in the fashion industry. This is primarily a visual art. A fashion designer must have a keen eye for beauty and excellent color perception. You will need to be able to discriminate between the subtlest of colors, including shades and brightness. But visualization is mental. You should be able to see in your mind’s eye how something will look when it is finished. You need to be able to look at a sketch and imagine how the garment will look and feel when a real person wears it. You also need to visualize how it will look when something is changed, if you want to move or rearrange parts. 18

You should have a passion for fashion. Do you daydream about having a runway collection or being the costume designer on the next blockbuster movie? Do you doodle while you’re on the phone or tell your sister how to accessorize her outfits? Are you the first one to let your friends know when their clothes are out of fashion? Fashion designers love everything about the world of fashion and are always in tune with the latest trends. They constantly read fashion magazines, window shop, and attend fashion shows. Successful designers do this not because they have to, but because they want to. The very best fashion designers do more than keep up with current fashion trends; they stay one step ahead of the market by anticipating changes. Fashion designers also need excellent communication skills and the ability to work either alone or in a team environment. Make no mistake – this is a tough business where only the most determined succeed. You need to be able and willing to work under pressure and meet never-ending deadlines. You should be prepared to accept criticism, too, from the public, your superiors, and other designers. A good working knowledge of business, marketing, and self-promotion will help you move ahead in this highly competitive environment.

19

ATTRACTIVE FEATURES FASHION DESIGN IS A CAREER MARKED BY GLAMOUR AND EXCITEMENT. THOSE AT

the top of the profession are often treated like rock stars – riding around in limousines, making the rounds of TV talk shows, putting on extravagant shows, and basking in the glory of applause and flashing cameras. They are famous thanks to millions of consumers who look for their labels when they shop for new clothes. It is a fashion in itself to wear clothes with designer names boldly displayed for everyone to see. The money is good. With only two years of schooling, a beginner in New York (the heart of the American fashion world) can expect a starting salary of over $40,000. Designers move upward fairly quickly, too. In just a few years, that same beginner could be earning over $90,000. The best designers do extremely well. Incomes for talented and experienced designers can range from $100,000 to $150,000. The sky is the limit for well-known fashion designers with signature lines or their own fashion houses. Some make millions from their creations. But those are the exception. There is opportunity for travel. Many designers travel widely for showings and conferences. High fashion designers get to travel to the fashion capitals of the world such as Paris and Milan. Even ordinary designers are routinely sent abroad. You might find yourself in India, buying a boatload of cotton fabric. Or maybe your company has contracted with a factory in China to manufacture your designs, and you need to make sure with your own eyes that garment pieces are being dyed the right shade of pink. As a fashion designer, you will get paid to do what you love most. You will spend time in stores looking at clothes and accessories made by competitors. You will read Elle, Vogue, and Women’s Wear Daily – and get paid for it. You will attend many fashion shows. It does not require a major investment in education to get into this field. Technically, you can get started with only a high school diploma, but that is not advisable. But it only takes one to three years to get the proper training you need to launch a successful career. This is a very creative field. You will get to use your artistic talents and work alongside other creative people who share your interest in fashion. Best of all, you will see people wearing clothing that you designed – and loving it!

20

UNATTRACTIVE FEATURES FASHION DESIGN IS AN EXCITING CAREER CHOICE THAT HAS A LOT GOING FOR IT.

With excitement, however, come pressure and stress. Styles for future seasons are previewed at fashion shows. Months of work go into the preparation of the shows. The pressure builds as show time nears. If the line flops, the company loses money and jobs are jeopardized. If all goes well, the work pace gets even more hectic. There is always the worry that problems will arise in production and the clothes won’t get into the stores on time. Some designers enjoy working in bright and clean studios with all the ambience of an art gallery. Most, however, work in cluttered and noisy surroundings. Instead of having a personal workspace, a designer usually works in a huge design room filled with long tables for cutting out patterns and not a chair in sight. Many fashion houses and garment manufacturers are housed in old buildings with dreary interiors, no air conditioning, and more stairs than elevators. Fashion designers who choose to freelance can create more pleasing workspaces for themselves. But self-employment has its own set of headaches. A common complaint from freelancers is that clients don’t know enough about the process of design. There is a constant need to educate potential clients, if only to justify the value (and cost) of design. Making a living as a freelancer isn’t always easy either. There is no ongoing salary to count on and there will always be the inevitable “down time” between contracts. No contract, no work, no pay. Still, freelancing does have its allure. For someone with exceptional talent and skills and a knack for business, there is the very real potential to earn more than a salaried designer while enjoying creative freedom and autonomy.

21

EDUCATION AND TRAINING IT IS POSSIBLE TO ENTER THE FIELD OF FASHION DESIGN WITH ONLY A HIGH SCHOOL

diploma. After all, this is a creative endeavor and no school can teach you how to be creative. Do you have a good sense of line, color, form, balance, proportion, and an eye for detail? Can you sew? Can you come up with some original ideas as well as new twists on old designs? If you can demonstrate you have artistic talent and a sense of style, then you need to put together a portfolio to prove it. Hopefully, you can draw well enough to get your ideas across clearly. If not, don’t despair. You can always put your designs on mannequins or live models (it’s okay to use your friends) and take photos. You’ll still need to learn to draw though and the sooner the better. A portfolio that shows you love fashion and are capable of coming up with good ideas can get you an entry-level job in the fashion industry. However, without formal training it is unlikely that you will start as a designer or even an assistant designer. In fact, it could take years to get your first shot at one of those positions. It is more likely that you will be cutting, sewing, ironing, or fetching mocha lattes for the designers. If you are serious about making fashion design your career, you have a much better chance of success with some education. You will still need a portfolio, but instead of using it to apply for a job you will use it to get into a vocational school or college that provides specialized training in fashion design. There are many schools with fashion programs and most of them teach the necessary basics: technical expertise in garment construction, principles of design, and computer-aided design skills. But there are only a few schools, including Parsons School of Design and Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) that can boast top-notch reputations in the industry. A diploma from one of these schools is like a magic key that unlocks the door to a great future. You will receive the best training, but the real advantage is that these schools work closely with the industry. For example, successful designers like Donna Karan work directly with the graduating students at Parsons by critiquing their work and offering guidance. Ambitious students at RISD have the opportunity to compete for prestigious awards and grants that bring attention as well as money. At the end of the last semester, graduating students at these schools show their collections at fashion shows attended by important people scouting for new talent. 22

A diploma from one of the top design schools comes with contacts that you probably can’t get on your own. Chances are good that you will have your first job lined up before graduation day. It is not easy to get accepted; these schools are very selective and competition among applicants is touch. You should try as hard as you can though. It is well worth the effort. If you can’t get into a top tier design school, there are many other choices. Some big city high schools offer classes in commercial sewing, principles of design, and fashion marketing. Students who pass all the required classes are qualified to earn a certificate from the National Occupational Competency Testing Institute. There are many community colleges and vocational schools that offer two-year programs in the fundamentals of fashion design. Students in these schools can earn an Associate of Arts degree or certificate. Classes typically include sketching, draping, pattern-making, cutting, garment construction, textiles and trimmings, fashion marketing, and principles of design and color. There are also many four-year fashion design programs offered through colleges and universities. In addition to design, courses may include marketing strategy, sales control systems, principles of customer and personal service, psychology, sociology, anthropology, and various courses in fine arts. However, many in the professional consider vocational schools a better choice because they are more closely allied with the garment industry than most four-year institutions. Most vocational schools offer two choices. If you want to enter the field as quickly as possible, you can choose to earn a first-level certificate of proficiency that will qualify you for a job as a Design Room Assistant. This short course will prepare you to work in a design room, doing general tasks such as spec writing, cataloging fabrics and trims, and updating sample boards. If you would prefer to enter the field as a designer, you can earn a second-level certificate. It will take more time, but you will be qualified to work as an Assistant Designer. It is a job that requires a thorough knowledge of apparel construction, patterns, color, and design. Courses for this extended program include: Design techniques and tools Pattern making and grading Draping and flat work 23

Garment construction Ornamentation, trimmings, and features Fabric behavior and application Costume history Principles of design and color Cost analysis and pricing Planning and promoting seasonal lines Trends in the fashion world Even beginner Assistant Designers often get to do real design work. For example, you might be asked to produce flat drawings of garments with detailed specifications for production or create theme boards with fabrics and trims. First-level certificate holders always have the option of returning to school to earn a second-level certificate or an associate’s degree. Designers who want to specialize in costume design will need a Bachelor of Arts degree.

EARNINGS FASHION DESIGNERS CAN MAKE A GREAT DEAL MONEY. IT IS NOT UNUSUAL FOR

highly skilled and well-known designers in top firms to earn more than $150,000 annually. But 90% of designers earn less than $100,000. How much you earn will depend on your talent, your reputation, the size of your employer’s company, and the kind of fashion design you do. Nationwide, the median annual income for fashion designers is around $50,000, with most earning between $35,000 and $75,000. Incomes are higher in the two fashion capitals, New York and California. Fashion designers in California average $60,000 annually. In New York, entry-level designers start out at around $45,000 while more experienced designers such as head designers earn an average $95,000 a year. How well beginners are paid depends on education and training. You can get into this career with no training at all, but you will have to take an entry level position that pays meager wages, probably less than $25,000 a year. The picture is much brighter if you have an 24

associate’s degree in fashion design. With this kind of preparation, you can start as a design room assistant or assistant designer. The average starting salaries for degree holders is about $35,000 – a great payoff for only two years of schooling. There is an added bonus, too. Design school graduates can expect to move up the career ladder fairly quickly, increasing earnings with each step. Talented designers with proven abilities can negotiate for better salaries and benefits. Much is dependent on reputations, for both the designer and the fashion house. Typically, as a designer becomes well known, he/she is offered a share of the company. The ownership share percentage grows as the designer’s name becomes better known. Top designers with successful clothing lines at important fashion houses also earn bonuses that have the potential for millions of dollars in additional income. Some fashion designers are self-employed. A freelance designer’s income can exceed that of a salaried designer. But earnings can vary greatly depending on reputation, talent, business acumen, and type of clientele. Some work on retainer with a guaranteed percentage of the gross. Others are paid per unit or contract. The most common freelancers in this industry are costume designers. Most costume designers do not earn as much as fashion designers, but they do usually make more than $1,000 per week. That does not mean, however, that they necessarily earn $50,000 a year. Costume designers almost always work on a contract basis and long periods of unemployment between contracts are not unusual.

OPPORTUNITIES THE FIELD OF FASHION DESIGN IS A SMALL ONE, BUT INTERESTINGLY, DESIGNERS

are key people in the industry - for each fashion designer there are 100 garment workers producing the designs. Fashion designers at the top of their profession enjoy high pay and prestige. They rarely retire early, which does create strong competition for those on the way up. But there will always be room for talented designers. Demand for fashion designers is expected to grow faster than for most professions in the coming years. A growing population with growing personal incomes is spurring the demand. American consumers have come to expect fresh styles with the change of every season. And they have the money to satisfy an appetite for new clothes and accessories on a regular basis. 25

Despite the job growth, this is a very competitive field. Like all artistic fields, fashion design is very appealing to creative and talented people. Those who invest in proper training have the best chance of breaking in. There are plenty of openings for assistant designers, but only those who develop the necessary technical expertise at a design school qualify for these positions. Most aspiring fashion designers dream of working in high fashion. Unfortunately, that is the toughest area to break into. The employment outlook is much better in other specialized areas such as children’s clothing, athletic wear, and sleepwear. There are some opportunities for fashion designers in most US cities. However, New York is the number one fashion center in America and therefore has the most jobs. California is a close second, with numerous opportunities in Los Angeles and San Francisco. Most designers advance by moving from firm to firm. A beginner might start as a cutting assistant in one company, then take a job as assistant designer in another company. Or a technical designer might be stuck with no way to progress at a pattern company, but the experience qualifies him/her for the position of head designer at a mass market manufacturer. The world of fashion is small and word of opportunities gets around fast. Networking is usually the key to finding the next job opening. There are also opportunities for fashion designers to move into related fields that are more administrative than creative. A few of the possibilities are merchandising, production supervision, and buying.

26

GETTING STARTED A L L G O O D FA S H I O N D E S I G N SCHOOLS HAVE JOB PLACEMENT OFFICES. THE

best employers scout the top schools to fill job openings for assistant designers. If you can’t find a job as assistant designer, you may have to accept some other entry-level job, such as cutter or assistant pattern maker. Keep looking for an assistant designer job though so you don’t get stuck in the workroom. The most effective method of finding a job in fashion design is to approach potential employers directly. Look in the yellow pages for dressmakers, garment manufacturers, large department stores, custom dress shops, paper pattern makers, costumers, theater companies, and design studios. If you don’t see any listings, you probably live in the wrong city and you will need to move. Most jobs openings are going to be in New York or California. Learn to network. This is an industry where everybody knows everybody. Start by talking to people you have met through summer or part-time jobs. Join a professional organization such as the local chapter of the Fashion Group International or the Costume Council. Look for help wanted ads. Occasionally, an ad will appear in a newspaper, but you’ll find most job notices in the trade journals. You can also search for a job online. Look for specialty websites geared specifically towards the fashion industry. For example, at the Fashion Career Center you can search for fashion jobs, post your resumé , and even show your portfolio to prospective employers and recruiters.

27

ASSOCIATIONS ÷ California Fashion Association (CFA)

californiafashionassociation.org ÷ Costume Designers Guild (CDG)

www.costumedesignersguild.com ÷ Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA)

www.cfda.com ÷ American Apparel and Footwear Association

www.apparelandfootwear.org/ ÷ Fashion Group International

http://www.fgi.org/home.html ÷ Gen Art

www.genart.org ÷ International Apparel Federation

http://www.iafnet.org/ ÷ New York Fashion International

www.fashionexportsny.org ÷ San Francisco Fashion Industries

http://www.sffi.org/ ÷ International Association of Clothing Designers

http://www.iacde.com/

28

PERIODICALS ÷ Women’s Wear Daily

http://www.wwd.com/ ÷ The Fashion Directory

http://www.convergentus.se/fashion/ ÷ Vogue

http://www.style.com/vogue/ ÷ Guide to New York Fashion Week

www.newyorkmetro.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/ ÷ Daily News Record

http://www.dailynewsrecord.com ÷ The Look On-line

http://www.lookonline.com/content2.html

WEBSITES ÷ Area of Design

http://www.areaofdesign.com/ ÷ National Association of Schools of Art and Design

http://nasad.arts-accredit.org/index.jsp ÷ Fashion Net

http://www.fashion.net/ ÷ Fashion Institute of Technology

http://www.fitnyc.suny.edu/html/dynamic.html ÷ The Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising

http://www.fidm.com/ ÷ Rhode Island School of Design

www.RISD.edu ÷ The Art Institute of Dallas

http://www.aid.edu/

29

÷ The International Academy of Design and Technology in

Chicago http://www.iadtchicago.edu/ ÷ Fashion Business Incorporated

http://www.fashionbizinc.org/ ÷ Fashion East

www.fashioneast.co.uk ÷ Material World

http://www.material-world.com ÷ The LA Fashion District

http://www.fashiondistrict.org/ ÷ Parsons School of Design

http://www.parsons.edu/ ÷ Fashion Career Center

http://fashioncareercenter.com/

COPYRIGHT Institute For Career Research 2009 CAREERS INTERNET DATABASE www.careers-internet.org

30