Twixt Pera and Therapia: The Constantinople Diaries of Lady Layard 9781611437348, 1611437342

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Twixt Pera and Therapia

Publications of the Center for Ottoman Diplomatic History

A co-publication with The Isis Press, Istanbul, the series consists of collections of thematic essays focused on Ottoman diplomatic history from the late eighteenth century until the early twentieth century.

Twixt Pera and Therapia

The Constantinople Diaries of Lady Layard

Edited by

Sinan Kuneralp

« % gorgia* press

2011

Gorgias Press IXC, 954 River Road, Piscataway, NJ, 08854, USA www.gorgiaspress.com Copyright© 2011 by Gorgias Press IXC Originally published in 2010 All rights reserved under International and Pan-American Copyright Conventions. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise without the prior written permission of Gorgias Press LLC. 2011

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ISBN 978-1-61143-734-8 Reprinted from the 2010 Istanbul edition.

Printed in the United States of America

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Preface Editor's Note Introduction Lady Layard's Diaries 1877 1878 1879 1880 Index

7 9 11 15 79 163 229 274

PREFACE

The Center for Ottoman Diplomatic History has been established at the initiative, and thanks to the generous support, of Omer M. K05. Its main field of activity is the publication of collections of documents from the Ottoman Ministry of Foreign Affairs. It aims at bringing a fresh insight to the history of the "Eastern Question". Two main series are planned : "Ottoman Diplomatic Documents on the Origins of World War One", and "Ottoman Diplomatic Documents on the Eastern Question in the 19 th Century". A third series, "L'Empire Ottoman et l'Europe" covers the main events of 19th century European history as seen by Ottoman diplomats like "The Franco-Prussian War" or "Italian Unification". Private papers of Ottoman and foreign diplomats will also be published. The Editors take this opportunity to express their gratitude to Omer M. Ko§ without whose contribution these various projects could not have been concluded.

EDITOR'S NOTE

The decision to transcribe and publish the Diaries of Lady Layard deposited in the Western Manuscripts Department of the British Library in London ( Add MS. 46,156 and 46,157 ) covering her years in Turkey where her husband Sir Henry A. Layard was the British ambassador had been taken long before the Armstrong Browning Library of Baylor University, Waco, Texas, has put the whole diaries on line as part of their The Brownings: A Research Guide site devoted to Robert and Elizabeth Barrett Browning and their circle. It was felt that though the diaries could be easily accessed electronically, those interested in 19th century Ottoman history might not necessarily be familiar with the connection between a Victorian poet and the wife of a British ambassador to the Sultan. The intrinsic value of the document for social historians notwithstanding the Diaries provide an entertaining complement to the Memoirs of Sir Henry Layard already published in the present series. Modern Turkish spelling has been used for place and proper names instead of Lady Layard's erratic and unorthodox transcriptions (she used at least half a dozen different ways to spell the village of Cubuklu on the Asian side of the Bosphorus). On the other hand 19th-century usage has been kept in cases like Constantinople, Smyrna, Pera,Therapia, etc.

INTRODUCTION

For some reason Katie Hickman does not refer to Lady Layard in her delightful book on diplomatic wifes 1 . Enid Layard, née Guest was perhaps too prim and proper to be included in this collection of excentric and adventurous women. Yet she was an inveterate diary writer and this alone should make her stand out among the wives of foreign diplomats who served in the capital of the Ottoman Empire 2 . The first entry is dated 1st July, 1861 when she was 18years old and in the last dated a week before her death on November 1, 1912 she wrote ominously "In bed all day with a cold". She arrived in the capital of the Ottoman Empire in the spring of 1877 at the age of 34, having in 1869 married aged 25, her cousin Henry A. Layard, who was 26 years her senior. The previous eight years they had spent in Madrid where Layard had been British Minister since their marriage. A few weeks after their arrival in Constantinople the Ottoman Empire found itself drawn into a war with Russia. Enid Layard's diary entries over the next three years are a record of i) the main phases of the crisis the Ottoman Empire faced during that period, ii) her own contribution at relief work, iii) her appraisal of Sultan Abdülhamid II and some of the leading State dignitaries, and iv) social life. Entries are occasionally frustratingly cryptic. There are tantalizing hints of gossips that one would want to know more about such as Lady Salisbury's visit to Mme Midhat Pasha, the wife of the then Grand Vizier when she accompanied Lord Salisbury to Constantinople in December 1876 or the misdemeanour of Rüstern Pasha, a future ambassador to London who apparently seduced and ditched the daughter of an English knight. Since Lady Layard was also a consumate letter writer like most of her contemporaries this information may lie in her correspondance if it has survived. She was also an indefatigable amateur water colourist and painter but unfortunately none of the many sketches and pictures she appears to have made have been traced so far 3 . Since she appears to regularly have been employed in copying official dispatches written by her husband to the Foreign Office Lady Layard must have had a clearer overall picture of political and military events than is usual with embassy wives. Yet this does not appear in the diary entries where she confines herself to note down the major events though expressing her pleasure at the few short-lived successes of the Ottoman armies and her despondency 1 Daughters of Britannia. The lives and times of diplomatic wives, London 1999. 2

The diaries of the wife of M.K. Onu, the long-serving dragoman of the Russian embassy in Constantinople in the 1870s are scheduled to be published in the present series. 3

She also has made a copy of G. Bellini's famous portrait of Mehmed II, once part of the Layard Collection and now at the National Galery in London.

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when they were defeated. At one point she notes that a dance that had been planned at the embassy was cancelled at the last minute when news came of a particularly dramatic reverse. Neither does she conceal that her sympathies are with the Turks, a reflection both of her personal feelings and of what her husband perceived to be Britain's true interests. She shows her annoyance when colleagues from the French and German embassies are less forthcoming in their support of the Turkish effort. She probably is the first wife of a foreign ambassador to take an active part in local charities and relief work following the influx of refugees crowding in Istanbul in the wake of the retreating Turkish armies'. She may have been prompted into it by the example of two formidable British ladies, Baroness Burdett Coutts and Countess Strangford who both were very publicly pursuing similar goals. But hers was on a much lower key and probably just as effective if not more. Beside fund raising and distributing she mobilized the whole embassy staff and visitors to prepare aid parcels. Her efforts were recognized by both Sultan Abdiilhamid and Queen Victoria. The former established an order for women to reward charity work and made her its first recipient while the latter allowed her to accept it despite British rules forbidding officials to accept foreign orders. But her diaries are at their most revealing when relating her relations with Sultan Abdiilhamid II. Echoing Layard's own feelings towards the Sultan, they show that Lady Layard succeeded in establishing a unique personal rapport with the sovereign who had no qualms in confiding her family matters of a most intimate nature. Breaching religious precepts he would hold her hand doing so. After her husband was recalled and the couple settled down in retirement in Venice, she still kept in touch with the Sultan sending him her regards, small gifts and even her photograph over the years through various emissaries such as the Hungarian journalist A. Vambéry or on the occasion of his jubilee in 1900 the then British ambassador Sir Nicholas O'Connor. The Sultan's secretariat duly acknowledged the gifts and visiting Ottoman dignitaries would tell her that though the Sultan had not got over the publication of Layard's final dispatch to Lord Granville2 he had a high regard for her. When the Sultan was deposed in 1909 Lady Layard arranged to have a message delivered to him in Salonica where he had been exiled to express her sympathy to which Abdiilhamid answered saying that he was happy to learn he had not been entirely forgotten by everyone. Lady Layard felt the same empathy towards a number of high ranking Ottoman officials, chief among whom was Ahmed Vefik Pasha, a friend of Layard from his youth. She would visit him on her own or receive him at the embassy en tête à tête. They shared a passion for gardening and they cooperated together in relief work. Kâmil Bey, the Palace chief of protocol,

1 Another British ambassadress, Lady Lowther attempted to set up a society for the prevention of cruelty to animals in the years preceding Word War One. 2

See The Queen's Ambassador to the Sultan...

- 13 another "boon companion" of her husband from those days she had already met in Madrid when he had come on a special mission from the Sultan and had been touched by the mutual pleasure the two old friends had expressed at seeing each after after almost 20 years. She certainly benefited from the clout carried by her husband among upper class Turks but her own genteel and caring personality did contribute to many doors normally closed to the average diplomatic wife opening to her as in the case of her being invited to attend the wedding of the daughter of the leader of a religious brotherhood. Social life in 1 ^ - c e n t u r y Constantinople was by necessity restricted and its clautrophobic nature is reflected in the list of guests at embassy functions with the same names recurring from one to the other. For Enid Layard it revolved in three different circles that would rarely overlap. The first and foremost was the Diplomatic Corps where personal likes would be overshadowed by national rivalries, specially — in her own case —with regards to the French. Lady Layard tried as much as possible to avoid meeting on formal circunmstances the wife of the German ambassador, Princess Reuss, who being a member of a minor royal family should take precedence on her despite the fact that her own husband was the doyen of the ambassadors. The second circle consisted of the vibrant Anglo-Levantine community, the staff of the embassy, the occasional visitors from England and finally the officers of the Fleet whose continuous presence in Turkish waters had been one of the results of the war with Russia. Members of the extended Hanson family embraced her heartily and provided a convenient introduction to life in the city. On the other hand we have inklings of friction with the wife of the British consul general, an ever-recurring theme in diplomatic memoirs. The last circle Lady Layard associated with is in fact the most challenging, i.e., the small coterie of westernized Muslim women, foremost among whom are Princess Nazli, a grand daughter of Mehmed Ali Pasha of Egypt who became a life-long friend and whom she would visit in Cairo some 35 years after having left Constantinople, Mme Hilmi Pasha, daughter of their good friend Kamil Bey, and finally Mme Kazim Bey, widowed daughter in law of Grand Vizier Fuad Pasha. The last one has this particularity that, having converted to Catholicism, she married — probably the first woman of her class to marry a European — a Belgian diplomat whose name appears among the guests of Lady Layard. It is tempting to venture that the romance may have started at the British embassy under the auspices of Her Ladyship. The daughter of Mme Hilmi married also a foreigner, the Russian Prince Urusov. The abrupt recall of Layard by the newly elected Liberal government in the spring of 1880 came as a shock to Lady Layard. The news of the recall arrived ominously enough a few days after a charity performance she had organized of Cherubini's Requiem, a knell to her hopes of leaving her marks on a city she had grown to love. She was gratified to learn from a visiting guest months later that no one in Constantinople from the Sultan downwards

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could bear the Goschens, their successsors as ambassador in the Ottoman capital. Once settled in Venice she did not loosen her ties with Turkey. Whenever she would travel abroad she would call on Turkish embassies where she would be feted by ambassadors and if invited to official functions she would wear the §ekafat, the order given her by the Sultan. At the beginning of the 20 th century meeting in Paris Miinir Pasha — whom she had known as a young aide to their old friend Ahmed Vefik —very smart in European looks and dress she sighed for the fez and Turkish cut of coat (the Stambouline) to which she had been accustomed. Similarly visiting Cettinje, the capital of Montenegro, the Turkish minister offered her a plate of Turkish sweets, Tavuk gogsii, which gave her the occasion to nostalgically reminisce on how the Sultan had it always prepared in the Palace kitchens specially for her. These were more than the usual longings of a retired ambassadress for the trappings of her former official life, but genuine expressions of her feelings for a country and a people she had loved. In spite of her affection for the Sultan, on hearing that the liberal grand vizier Midhat Pasha whom they had visited in Syria where he was governor, had been arrested and that his family was in dire financial straits she collected money for his young children. Unwittingly and indirectly Lady Layard has been a contributing factor in the modernization process of Palace protocol. As already seen she was the reason for the establishment of an order exclusively for women involved in charity work. It is with her that the custom was initiated that the wives of foreign ambassadors should also be present at state dinners given at the Palace in the presence of the Sultan. She was also the first woman to attend the sittings of the short-lived Parliament. A quote from an entry of her diary dated October 17, 1904 — that is almost 25 years after she had left Turkey — will serve as a fitting conclusion. In it Lady Layard gives went at once to her feelings towards W.E.D. Gladstone, whom Henry Layard held responsible for the ruin of his career and towards what she considers to have been a less than fair treatment of the Ottoman Empire at a crucial juncture of its history: ... Next me sat a common looking little man whose name I had not understood. He asked me abt my stay at Consple & Gladstone's name came up. I said it was curious how his name was quite forgotten. He said it might be in England but not with his people & that even streets had been named after him. I said Oh yes it was he who invented "Bulgarian atrocities" which had never existed, & had been helped by McColl & Liddon—all equally bent on fabricating "Bulgarian atrocities"- The conversation then dropped & I found out afterwards that I had been talking to the Bulgarian Agent! I am not sorry to have let him see what 1 thought of his fictitious "atrocities" tho' had I known who he was I should have been obliged to hold my tongue on the subject.

1877 Friday 20th April 1877. Henry having promised to call me early that I might see the Dardanelles I was awake and looking out of my cabin window before daybreak but there was nothing but mist and rain to be seen and so I did not get up till after 7. We went a tremendous pace going 16 knots an hour all day. Breakfasted about 9 and had with me our 1 st Dragoman Mr Sandison1 and the Sultan's dragoman2 who spoke French well. We then sat on deck as it cleared up and we were able to amuse ourselves with glasses looking at the coast as we passed as we came in smooth water at last. Lunched at 2 and invited Capt. Pearson and Mr Gough to lunch with us. As we neared Constantinople the sun shone and the view that burst upon one was surprisingly beautiful and every moment became more so as we went round Seraglio Point and came into Constantinople. The state caique of the Embassy came along side as soon as the Osborne3 made fast to the buoy. Henry and all the officers of the Osborne put on their uniform. We had to wait about 1/2 hour for the secretaries of the Embassy who came on board to receive us — but we had arrived an hour sooner than was expected. At last they came and we landed in the state barge of the Osborne. Soldiers were drawn where we landed and presented arms. Open carriages were waiting at the water edge and we drove up to Pera in grand procession. We passed through Galata and I was astonished and bewildered the narrow streets, wooden houses, various costumes, people smoking tchibouks, women in bright silk garments, etc. It was a good long drive up to the Embassy, the 1st secretary Mr Jocelyn 4 came in the carriage with us. The Embassy is an immense stone building built on the model of the Farnese Palace5, very grand with marble staircase, a large court yard glazed over, lofty rooms with silk and gold furniture, very cold and dull and grand. The bedrooms are on the upper floor up a very steep staircase but when once there the view is lovely as one sees across the Petits Champs the Golden Horn over Stamboul to the sea of Marmara. Sir Arnold Kemball6 and several others came to see Henry. He went out after dinner to see the 1 Sir Alfred Sandison.

2

Miinir Bey. The royal yacht.

4

Nassau Jocelyn who acted as chargé after the departure of Sir Henry Elliot.

5

The French embassy in Rome.

6

Sir A. Kemball (1820-1908). Military attaché of the Embassy.

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Grand Vizier 1 . I had such a bad cold I had to call in the Embassy Dr (Dickson) and went early to bed. Henry came in late. Saturday 21st April. The Doctor's prescription did me no good and I was hors de combat all day. Had a visit from Lady Kemball whom I had once met at dinner in England just after 1 married. She did not attract me much. She is small, sharp featured and fair. She talked a deal of her intimacy with Lady Elliot 2 . Mrs Baring 3 , our secretary's wife also called. She is also small, fair and rather plain. Henry was very busy all day; about 5 he called me out to walk in the garden and I went and took a turn and picked some lilacs but I felt very C.D. and my cold was very bad. Sunday 221"1 April. I stayed in bed all day. Dr. D. came to see me. Henry went to church in the morning and in the afternoon he drove out of town to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha 4 and only came home to dinner. I got up for dinner. We had Messrs Jocelyn, Ashburnham 5 , Smijth 6 , Kennedy 7 , Sandison, the Barings, Ct Pisani 8 for to dine. Monday 23rd April. Still very C.D. with cold and had a little neuralgia over the right eye. Had visits from Mrs Hanson 9 and Miss Boyd 1 0 . Mr Fawcett 11 and the Kashgar Ambassador 12 called. Tuesday 24th April. Was better and up to breakfast at 9. Henry went to present his letters of credence to the Sultan. The Government sent 5 carriages for him and his suite and he took 16 people with him in order to make a great effect. The streets were crowded with people. He drove through the principal street of Pera. The Sultan received him at Yildiz at his kiosk there. After the official audience Henry had a private audience with only one of the ministers present. He says he found H.I.M. very attractive and intelligent. He seemed depressed and said he had not slept the night before for thinking of affairs. He seemed delicate and gave him the impression of being good, right-minded but

1

Edhem Pasha.

2

Wife of Sir H . Elliot.

3

Walter Baring.

4

Turkish statesman and an old friend of H . Layard. On his relations with Layard, see The Queen's Ambassador. The Honourable John Ashburnham, second secretary of the Embassy. ® William Bowjer Smijth, second secretary of the Embassy.

7

R J . Kennedy, second secretary of the Embassy.

8

Etienne Pisani, retired dragoman of the Embassy.

9

The Hansons were a British Levantine trading family.

10

May Boyd, Hobart Pasha's niece.

11

H.B.M. Fawcett, British consul general in Constantinople.

12

Sayyid Yakoub Khan.

- 17 weak in character. While Henry was away, I had a visit from Ahmed Vefik and he told me that the Russians had declared war and it had just been announced in the Parliament of which he is president. He was most amusing and spoke French to perfection. Mrs Baring called and also Mme Condouriotis, the Greek minister's wife. Henry came home late as after the audience of the Sultan he had to pay an official visit to the Grand Vizier and about 10 minutes after he got home the Grand Vizier Edhem Pasha came to return the visit. Wednesday 25th April. I had a reception in the afternoon for the English colony. Mr and Mrs Baring and Mr Kennedy came and helped me. They were all gone by about 5. We then had tea. The Persian Ambassador 1 came and took tea with us. Thursday 26th April. At last I was better and made up my mind to go out driving. I went in the victoria and had a cavass before the carriage to clear the way. I went to fetch Mrs Baring and we went to pay some visits. We did not find many at home. After the visits we took a short drive round by the Sultan's palace on the Bosphorus and up the hill around home. The Kemballs, Fawcetts, Capt. Drummond of the Rapid, Capt. Molloy 2 , the French Chargé 3 and Mr Jocelyn dined. In the evening I received the Corps Diplomatique we had a good many come and about 6 ladies. Friday 27lh April. Suffered a good deal from neuralgia. Mrs Sandison and her daughter called. Ordered the carriage to drive with Henry but it got so wet that we had to countermand it. The weather has been gloomy and wet ever since we came here. Saturday 28th April. There was a shocking fire at Stamboul in the Fanar where the poor Greeks live. At 3 o'clock it was awful to see there was a huge mass of flame. There was a great fire in the same quarter a fortnight ago and 400 houses were burnt. At 3 I went out driving and fetched Mrs Baring. Henry had an official reception of the Ministers so I went to see Mrs Parniss 4 , Mrs Crawford 5 , Mrs Millingen 6 . Came home and had tea with Mrs Baring.

1

Mokhsin Khan.

2

Capt. E. Molloy, ADC of Yakub Khan. Comte Charles de Moiiy.

4

Wife of Parniss Efendi, the Maltese legal counsel of the Ottoman Foreign Ministry.

5

Mrs E. Crawford, an English widow living in Constantinople.

6

Wife of either Dr J.E. van Millingen, Lord Byron's physician or of his son, Dr A. van Millingen, antiquarian and member of the faculty at Robert College.

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Called also on Lady Strangford 1 at the hotel. Mr Jocelyn and Mr Smijth dined with us. Sunday 29th April. Started at 10 and drove down to the mosque near the Sultan's palace where we found the state caique waiting for us and were rowed up to Therapia. Had 10 rowers in costumes — white shirts and frill trousers tied under the knees, white stockings and no shoes and a red jacket embroidered with gold. The steerer was altogether in red embroidered. We took two cavasses. Unluckily the sun did not shine and it was cold and we were glad of our furs. We got there before 12 going in less than two hours. At two places where the current ran strong round a point men on the shore pulled us round with ropes. Every now and then one of our rowers recited a verse from the Koran for the benefit of his comrades. The Embassy at Therapia is a charming house. A stone foundation and the rest wooden. It is roomy but not too large and has 2 turrets. The garden is delightful. The house is new since Henry was attaché and the old Embassy is now the Secretaries' house and the old Secretaries' house is now the Gardeners'. The garden was looking lovely, the lilacs, roses, laburnums were now in flowers and the nightingales singing hastily. We went all over the house and garden and then returned to the drawing room and opened our provision bag. At 3.15 we started to return to Pera and took only an hour going down to Constantinople. Henry talked to the cavasses 2 and found that by degrees his Turkish returned to him and by the time he reached the iskele3 he spoke quite easily. The cavasses were delighted. At the mosque we found the carriage waiting and with a quantity of flowers we had brought with us laid at our feet we drove home. All the Embassy, Lady Strangford, Mr B. Kennett 4 and the Kemballs dined with us. Monday 30th April. Had a visit from Mme d'Ehrenhoff, the Swedish minister's wife. She is English and sister of Mr Reade the late consul at Cadiz. At 3 I went out for the first time in a sedan chair. I had one which belonged to Lady Elliot. I went to Mrs Baring and she also came with me in a chair. We were obliged to go in chairs to pay these visits as carriages cannot go near them. Went to the American Legation and saw Mrs Maynard 5 and to several other places. Henry had a reception of the Turks. When we returned from our

' Viscountess Strangford had established a hospital in Constantinople for wounded Turkish soldiers. Kavas, embassy guard. Landing stage. 4

The future Sir V. Barrington Kennett who was then involved with refugee work.

5

Wife of H. Maynard, the US Minister.

- 19 visits we had tea. I copied Bluhm 1 's memoir today and did the maps till past midnight. Tuesday 1st May. Finished the maps and wrote letters to send in the bag going to England by Mr Kennett. Lady Strangford tried to prevent his going with them but he insisted on going and seemed glad to have an excuse to emancipate himself. I had a tremendous attack of neuralgia from 12.30 till 4 and had to go into my room and have it quite darkened. At 4 1 had visits from several English ladies and the Italian chargé and the Greek secretaries. Had tea. Then visits from Mrs Baring and her sister Mrs Guarracino 2 and Mme Marinich 3 her sister in law. It came on to pour and they waited for the shower to be over. Dr. Dickson also came. Mssrs Jocelyn and Kennedy dined. Wednesday 2nd May. Wrote in morning. At 1 Mrs Sandison came. She lunched with me and afterward she and I drove off to Stamboul to make some purchases at the Bazaar. We drove over the wooden bridge and on till we stopped in the yard of a mosque where we got out and found ourselves in a covered place dark and dirty and crowded. The shops were little holes under a kind of colonnade and there are besides kind of open stalls. Mrs Sandison's servant led me a good way to the shop of one Dervish where we went into an inner room lighted by a skylight and where embroideries, silk, china plates etc., were shown to us. Coffee was handed to us. Mrs Sandison speaks all languages and it was rather amusing as we went into a jewellery shop and they thinking we neither of us understood discussed in Armenian the prices and how they were asking more than they wanted to take. It was past 5 when I got home. I left Mrs S. on the bridge where she took the steamer to return to Kadikôy. I found Henry walking in the garden with Mr Jocelyn. The Kemballs called quite late. Sir A. came to say good-bye as he starts tomorrow for Varna to join the Turkish troops and to see the War. We went to diner at the Fawcetts. We drove as far as the Galata Tower when 1 got into the chair to be carried the rest of the way. Henry walked. Met at dinner the d'Ehrenhoffs, Dr and Miss Sarell 4 and Mrs Crawford, Mr Wrench 5 , M. de Montholon 6 and a Pera Lady and her husband. I sat between Mr Fawcett and Dr Sarell. Home by 10.30. Sent Hill and Giovanni to see Therapia. They spent the day there.

' Bluhm Pasha, a German artillery officer serving in the Ottoman army. Probably the wife of H. Guarracino, a British protected subject of Italian origin. Wife of H. Marinich, dragoman of the British Embassy. 4

Dr. R. Sarell, a British doctor from a Levantine family.

5

W.H. Wrench, from the British consulate general in Constantinople.

^ Secretary at the French Embassy.

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Thursday 3rd May. Henry went out driving with me in the Victoria. Coming home we passed by Kamil Bey's 1 house and saw a Turkish lady getting out of a brougham in a Parisian get up-dress with train, golden, dyed hair, powdered face and the thinnest white ya§mak over her mouth only. We concluded it must be Mme Hilmi Bey, his daughter who had sent me a card. We saw Kamil Bey at the window bowing away at us so we turned back and asked if Mme H. was there and would see me. She said she would and Kamil received us and then went and brought in her daughter saying as Henry was his brother she did not mind seeing him unveiled. She was not pretty and not at her ease like a European in spite of her dress. She has 4 children and showed us her eldest (about 7) girl who was dressed like a French child and spoke French well as did her mother. We only stayed a short time as it was late. I had to go home to dress for dinner. We had a dinner for some of the Turkish Ministers. The Grand Vizier, the Minister of State, the Minister of Marine, Hobart Pasha 2 and some other Turks. They enjoyed their food and wine and went into ecstasies over Mr Joubert's 3 pilaf. In the evening some of the Dips came, MrZarifi 4 , Parniss. Friday 4th May. Wrote to Emilia 5 . Mrs Sandison came down soon after 12, stopped and lunched with us and at 2 we went out driving over the hills with beautiful views and peeps here and there. The Sweet Waters is a kiosk belonging to the Sultan in a little valley watered by a canal and on Friday being the Turkish day of rest all the Turkish ladies go and drive there and sit in groups on the grass. We got out and walked by the canal which was covered with various kinds of caiques and passed groups of women in bright coloured silk ferace6s and ya$mak7s sitting under the trees. There were also bands of gypsies most wonderfully picturesque. They all wear a kind of long mantle the original colour of which was dark blue but which faded with time and wear to every variety of blue. Under this their Turkish trousers and sashes and jacket are of all colours of the most brilliant hues. I never saw a more picturesque lot than a group of them assembled and the domes of the kiosk in the fresh spring green of the trees for a background. These gypsies have bronzed complexion and raven hair and black eyes. Their movement are free

1

Chief of Protocol at the Palace.

^ A.C. Hobard-Hampden, English naval captain serving in the Turkish Navy. 3

The Layards' French cook.

4

Ottoman Greek financier, banker of the Sultan.

5

Emilia Riano, a Spanish friend from Madrid.

® A kind of cloak.

n

A thin veil.

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and graceful and their drape round them splendidly. We came home about 5 o'clock. Saturday 5111 May. At 12.30 Mrs Baring came. Mme Issaverdens 1 and her two sisters the Misses McCarthys 2 called also Mme Serkis Efendi 3 . We lunched and then drove down to with Mrs B., Mr Jocelyn and Mr Kennedy to embark in the 6-oared caique to go over to Haydarpa§a. It took us about 1/2 hour. We went in order to see a kind of fair held there today. It was the Greek St George which coincides with the Turkish feast of the 1st day of spring. Mrs Sandison met us with her daughter Mme Bilinsky 4 and her husband and children. We walked about amongst the crowd of Turkish women in the brightest coloured mantles which made the fields look like a garden of flowers. There were ladies in carriages also driving up and down and through the midst of all ran the trains. It was marvellous that no accident happened as the railroad was covered with people who got out of the way when they heard the warning whistle of the approaching engine. There were one or 2 accidents in the carriages from the horses taking fright at this whistling. When we had gone about in the meadows we returned to the station to rest. It was exceptionally hot and dusty but the weather was charming. We went to Phanaraki by train and travelled in the Grand Vizier's carriage a present to him from the ex Queen Isabella of Spain. It was gorgeously fitted up with blue damask and the wood fittings were inlaid. We went through beautifully cultivated country and in 20 minutes arrived at the village. It was at the very end of a promontory and is shaded by large trees. We sat down and had coffee and sweets and water and Henry had a narghileh. Mr Kennedy made his first essay of it. We were loth to return home but at 5 we embarked in the caique and returned to Constantinople having had a charming afternoon. Sunday 6"' May. Went to church with Mrs Baring. After lunch Henry and I drove to the Bosphorus and embarked in the 6-oared caique and round to Hisar to see Ahmed Vefik. The weather was overcast and as soon as we landed it began to rain. We had to climb up the hill to get to his house which is a tiny red cottage attached to the old tower of the early Turkish castle. It is a very small place. In a short time Vefik offered to take me into the harem to see his wife and daughter. His wife is a tremendously stout ugly poxmarked woman and was dressed in the Turkish fashion with a garment with a long square train behind. It was a kind of lavender coloured cotton maltelope. She had a kind of under vest and loose jacket of the same. Two married daughters ' The Issaverdens were a Catholic Armenian family.

2 Daughters of Dr Joseph McCarthy who had been Sultan Mahmud II's physician. Q " Wife of a Armenian official of the Ottoman Foreign Ministry. 4

Wife of Nihat Pasha Bilinsky, a Pole in the service of the Ottoman Empire.

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were there, the eldest in a many coloured striped Brusa silk, the younger wore a splendid violet velvet embroidered at the hem with gold flowers and she wore a grey silk fur lined pelisse. The youngest and only unmarried was very good looking and wore a kind of Persian striped silk turned up with dark blue. They all wore black muslin handkerchief tied round their heads nearly hiding all their hair. These were painted with coloured flowers but the effect was poor and incongruous with their dresses. A sister of Vefik came in afterwards and she was dressed in a quilted fawn coloured satin. His son served as interpreter and spoke French well. The married daughters had once known French but had quite forgotten how to speak though they seemed now and then to understand what was said. Whenever Ahmed Vefik came into the room all the women stood up with folded hands and the son also retired into the furthest corner in a respectful attitude. They showed me their work- linen embroidered on linen and the youngest girl said she read a good deal. The eldest daughter had her little girl of 11 there. She was dressed in a bright canary coloured cotton with a black pattern. A skirt down to the ground and a loose jacket. Her head tied up in the invariable handkerchief and her hair hanging down in 2 plaits fastened together at the top by a huge brooch with diamonds badly set in the worst French style. The second daughter had a little girl of 2 who toddled about in a bright blue frock down to her toes and was allowed to run in and out of the men's apartments. The ladies gave me sweets and water to drink after it. After taking leave of them we went to walk with Vefik in the garden and took tea in his library which he has built there away from the house for fear of fire. I sat on a divan on the floor but there were chairs for those who chose. About 5.30 we left him and returned to the caique to go home. Had the Embassy except Mr Baring who was ill, the Messenger Capt. Player, Mr Marinich and Dr. Dickson. Monday 7th May. Had a visit by appointment from Princess Aristarchi 1 who said she was sent by the Kadins, the Sultan's aunts to convey their good wishes on our arrival and to say how pleased they were to have Henry back. She then went into ecstasies over Lady Salisbury 2 and overdid her praise of her and went on into politics. I had to stop her by assuring I understood nothing about it but she would run on so I let her run herself out. At 3 I went out in a hired carriage, Henry having taken our own. Went to fetch Mme d'Ehrenhoff and she took me to see Princess Nazli Halil 3 whose husband is ^ Wife of Miltiades Aristarchi Bey ex-prince of Samos and mistress of Sir Henry Bulwer, former British ambassador. Lady Salisbury had accompanied her husband when he came to Constantinople in December 1876. •i Daughter of Mustafa Fazil Pasha, son of Mehmed Ali Pasha of Egypt and wife of Halil §erif Pasha.

- 23 gone as T. Ambassador to Paris. She is niece of the V. Roy of Egypt, is about 25, rather good looking dressed in the height of French fashion, the only difference being that her eyes were lined with black, her lips painted bright red. She was powdered over the face. Her hair hung in 2 long plaits and she wore a kind of half Turkish, half French headdress of silk and artificial flowers which I took, at first for a bonnet. She received us in a room furnished in the French style, hung with pannels of blue satin embroidered in grey. Coffee was brought by a slave in cotton gowns. The zarfs were gold set with diamonds. Then cigarettes were brought with holders set in diamonds and ashtrays to match. Later sweetmeats were brought in a tray set with diamonds. The tray for the coffee was covered with a cloth made of red velvet embroidered with gold pearls and large cabochon emeralds. The Princess talks English very fluently. She seemed sad and depressed. She told me she had had a child who had died at 9 months. She talked of her father and said he had had 4 wives and 50 or 60 slaves. She said her husband had never married anyone but her and that if he were to do so she would go out of his house. We stayed there till nearly 6 and had tea before we left. As we came home we passed Henry coming from his visit at the Porte. He went to dine with the Grand Vizier. I dined alone and went early to bed. Tuesday 8 th May. I intended to go out to pay some visit with Mrs Baring but had to put her off as I was not well and had to keep my room all day. Mrs B. came and took tea with me there at 5. Lady Kemball, Mr Gallenga 1 , Capts Drummond and Chermside 2 , Messrs Wrench and Kennedy dined with us. Wednesday 9 th May. Mrs Sandison, Mrs Baring came at 11 and we went off to the Bedestan where the old things are to be got. It is a most wonderful place, a great crowd and very bewildering. I bought 10 silver zarjs with some old cups. Mrs Baring bought an inlaid table and bargained for a white embroidered shawl for 3 Turkish lira. We did not get back to lunch till after 2. The weather was very hot and heavy and a storm threatened. I had a headache and as Henry dined with the Persian minister, I went early to my room. Thursday 10th May. We were waked at 5 in the morning by a thunderstorm. Went to the stables with Henry what carriages we should take to Therapia. The servants went off in the morning with the things. At 2 Henry and I went out in the carriage to pay some visits. I found Mme Serkis at home and left cards on the rest. At a little before 4 we drove down to the scala with

' The Italian-bora correspondent of the London Times, A. Gallenga.

2

Lt. H. Chermside, then one of the assistant military attachés of the Embassy.

- 2 4 Hill and the parrot and went on board the Antelope which brought us to Therapia. Mr Smijth accompanied us. Mr Kennedy dined with us. Friday 11th May. Spent all the morning unpacking and settling ourselves. At 4.30 took a ride, we went over the hill behind Therapia and came down to Biiyiikdere and home by the quai. A short ride of not more than an hour. I rode a grey Henry bought me that used to belong to Miss Elliot. Mr Kennedy rode with us. Saturday 12th May. Mrs Baring came in the morning and stayed to lunch. At 4 Henry and 1 went out for a drive in the victoria. Drove to the aqueduct and beyond to the reservoirs, a very pretty spot. Came home by an upper road to Therapia which was in such a bad state that we had to get out and walk a good part of the way. The wild flowers were lovely, masses of gumcistus, white and pink, of vetches, orchids, burrage etc. Jocelyn, Kennedy and Sandison dined with us. Post from England arrived. After dinner as they were settling smoking, Mr Woodford arrived as messenger with the bags. We invited him to sleep in the house which he accepted. Sunday 13th May. No church today as it is not yet arrived (sic). Walked in the garden after breakfast with Henry. When he went in I went to the secretaries' house with Mr Jocelyn to see his rooms. Came in and wrote a note to Hatzfeldt 1 and Mme Calderon de la Barca 2 . At 3 Messrs Jocelyn, Smijth, Kennedy, Henry and I went out in the 6-oared caique to the shore opposite to walk in the Sultan's Valley. Saw some Turkish women in the old fashioned Turkish chalvar, a bullock cart in carved and painted and gilt wood with bright red cloth covering over head drawn by white oxen. We walked nearly to Abraham Pasha's farm and then returned to the caique and rowed to a place called Sultaniye where we landed and sat under the trees and took coffee. It was a very picturesque place and there were groups all round. Some were eating lettuces, others taking coffee, some eating sweets, some praying, a dervish was there surrounded by his scholars. We got home about a quarter to seven. Dined at 8. Had Jocelyn, Hobart Pasha, Capt. Wingfield 3 and Stopford 4 , Lord Melgund 5 who had to leave the table as he was suffering from headache, Mr. Woodford, Kennedy, Ashburnham, Smijth, Pisani and Sandison.

1

Melchior Graf von Hatzfeldt-Wildenburg, German envoy in Madrid and later ambassador in

Constantinople. 2

Marquesa Calderon de la Barca. a friend from Madrid.

3

Commander of the Antelope, one of the embassy's stationnaire.

4

Commander of the Helicon, one of the embassy's stationnaire.

5

The future 4 t h Earl of Minto, then the Morning Post correspondent at the front.

-25

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Monday 14th May. Wrote all the morning. Lord Melgund came just after luncheon to call. Dr Dickson also came. At 4, Henry, Mr Kennedy and I went out riding. We rode along the quay to Biiyükdere and after we had got through the village we turned up the valley and followed the stream. We asked our way several times and were directed to follow up the stream but the path got more and more impracticable. By jumping or scrambling over rocks and stones we got a long way till it got impossible to proceed and we had to give it up and turn back. But it was not so easy to get back and we had all to dismount in the bed of the stream and to lead our steeds up a rocky bit. We got to a place where there was a small hurdle. Kennedy scrambled through but I went at it and made my first experience in leaping with great success. On our way back we struck upon a path leading up the hill and made up our minds to try it. It lead up to a lovely spot where there was a coffee house. The man there offered to show us the way over the hills to Büyükdere and we had a lovely ride and came to the back of the Russian Embassy garden. Henry asked the man where the Russians were. He answered that they were gone to a warm place and he hoped they would stop there, that he was glad they were gone. We got home at 6.30. Mr Jocelyn and Kennedy dined with us. Tuesday 15th May. Walked after breakfast in garden with Henry. At 11 dressed and Henry and I started in the 10 oared caique and we rowed to Ortakoy where the carriage and cavass met us and we drove to Yildiz, the kiosque and gardens where the Sultan is now staying. We were met by a stout old party who walked us through the gardens, showed us the aviaries and finally led us to a small kiosk where he sent for chairs and had us sit down in the shade and ordered coffee. He and Henry conversed in Turkish which Henry said he evidently adapted to the foreigner as in Dickens' novel where the Englishwoman says to the Italian "We hope your leg soon well". After some time Said Pasha 1 joined us, the head of the Sultan's household. He took us a walk to another kiosk called the Malta Kiosk and said H.M. had ordered lunch to be served but not being rude etc. etc. he was afraid he could not see us etc. etc. Henry at once said that as he had come on purpose he hoped H.M. would not disappoint him of an interview at which Said seeing he could not get out of it, sent a message to the Sultan. The gardens are lovely — the trees not very old— there are all kinds of ducks, swans, geese and gazelles. The kiosks are built so as to have fair views over the Bosphorus. The Malta kiosk is so called from the stones it is built of. In the vestibule is a marble basin and fountain. Luncheon was prepared for us and was very well served. We had cutlets and a cold meat and dolmas of rice in vine leaves, very good cheese of the country and splendid strawberries which Said made us eat with sugar and 1

Said Pasha was trained at Woolwich. See The Queen's Ambassador for his relations with Layard.

- 2 6 -

strawberry preserves. While the gentlemen were smoking the Sultan sent to say he was ready to see us and we were taken upstairs to a large room over the vestibule below and the Sultan was in a side room. He bowed and then put out his hand and shook hands and begged me to sit in an armchair near him and Henry next me and Said on a chair. He sat himself in front of us. He was dressed in European fashion but wore a fez. He is short and thin, his eyes are sunk in his head. He wears a beard and mustache and is dark. Said had to interpret for us and H.M. had a long talk with Henry on affairs. Henry asked for the release of the Bulgarians. H.M. seemed gentle and nervous — his nails were bitten down to the quick but he seemed full of intelligence and the desire to do right and every now and then his eyes flashed with merriment when anything amused him. We stayed nearly 2 hours when Henry made a move. The windows behind us being open, Henry sat in a draught and felt the cold. H.M. asked me if I minded it but it was then too late and we were just going. The Sultan invited me to go one day next week to see his harem and said he would let me know when it should be. We walked down to the gate where the carriage was and took leave of Said and drove down to regain the caique. We got back home to Therapia about 6.30 and were glad of some tea for although the heat going to Yildiz was very great on the Bosphorus coming back was chilly. Mr Smijth and Mr Baring dined with us. Henry went to write directly after dinner. Wednesday 16"1 May. Wrote letters to send by messenger. Mr Marinich called. Went out in the afternoon in the garden with Henry and were driven in by a thunderstorm. Mr and Mrs Hanson called and had tea with me. The storm lasted till late. All the morning there had been a dense fog. At about 1 we heard a deal of firing from the forts at the mouth of the Black Sea. A large English steamer was towed down which had been ashore at the entrance and was bound round with ropes and sails. As soon as the fog settled, a quantity of steamers returning from the Black Sea came past. Today is the last day before the blockade begins. Lord Melgund came to dine and slept here. Mr Bilinsky, Sandison, Mr Kennedy and Mr Jocelyn also dined. M. de Torcy, French military attaché came to tea and talked very importantly about the war during an hour deprecating the Turks and their officers. As Bilinsky is a general in the Turkish army, it was neither proper nor polite and we were rather disgusted. It seemed even disrespectful in a young man to his eider not to mention his superior in rank. The General kept his temper very well although he tried to refute de Torcy's abuse. Thursday 17th May. Weather bad and showery. Henry has a swelled eye from the cold he caught on Tuesday sitting in a draught while with the Sultan. I practised and wrote letters. Took a turn in the afternoon but was

- 27 driven in by rain. Mr Foster 1 came to sleep and dine. Mr Jocelyn, Smijth and Ashburnham dined. Friday 18th May. It was a dull rainy day. Henry's eye was bad and we got the doctor of the Antelope to come and look at it fearing erysepelas but he pronounced it only a cold. Mr Gobble 2 called and lunched with us. After lunch the Austrian ambassador came to call and then the Italian Ct Corti 3 who came up in his despatch boat. At 4 I went out walking with Mr Jocelyn and went to the village to pay some visits. Found M et Mme Issarverdens at home — went on to Lady Kemball who was out and to Mrs Fawcett who was at home. Met there Capt. Wingfield who also was calling. He walked home with us. As we were coming home a servant came to meet us to say the German Ambassador and Ambassadress were calling — Prince and Princess Reuss. Met them at the gate just leaving. They had come up in their despatch boat. She had a companion with her. They could not stop and turn back. This morning just before breakfast we saw 4 or 5 irons clads going by and they dipped their flag to us by which we supposed Admiral Hobart was on board. Great was my surprise while walking in the garden with Sir Heniy and Lady Davis 4 who came up from Pera to stay with us to see Hobart Pasha come out of the house. He said he had to start all the ships and would himself embark when they were all off. Lady Kemball and Miss Gribble 5 , Jocelyn and Kennedy dined with us besides the Davis. Saturday 19th May. After breakfast I took the Davis round the garden and up to the summer house at which she was in ecstasies. Came in and wrote at 11 and they went to walk to Biiyukdere and only came back to luncheon. After lunch I took Lady D. for a drive to the reservoirs or Bend and got home at 5. The rain came down in torrents just after our return and we had a thunderstorm. Mrs Baring came to tea. She and her husband and child are come today to stay at Petala's hotel. Mr Guarracino her father also came and the Davis returned to Pera with him in his fly. Sir Collingwood Dickson arrived as military attaché. Messenger came. Sunday 20th May. We had service in the gallery. Dr Washburn of the American College of Hisar came and read the morning prayers and preached. I played the harmonium. The sailors of the Antelope formed the choir. Dr Washburn lunched with us and afterwards he, Henry, Gal Dickson and I started in the caique to go to see Ahmed Vefik and just as we left it came to 1

M.H. Foster, British director general of the Banque Impériale Ottomane.

2

Chaplain of the British embassy.

3

Ct. L. Corti, Italian minister at Constantinople.

4

Davis was a former Lieutenant-general of the Punjab. Daughter of the embassy chaplain.

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28

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rain and to blow and we had to turn back. Walked a little in the garden but the weather was too bad to allow of being out much. Hobart Pasha dined with us and Mr Blunt 1 besides Ct Pisani, the Barings, Lady Kemball, Kennedy, Ashburnham, Smijth, Sandison, Mr Jocelyn which with Sir Collingwood who is staying with us makes 14. Monday 21 s ' May. The weather was still wet and stormy. 1 had a headache which prevented my doing much all day. Lady Kemball and Mr Arthur Hanson called. The General went in to Pera for the day. After 5 I went out in the garden with Henry. Mr Jocelyn went to stay at Pera to prepare for starting for Italy on Wednesday. Mr Blunt dined with us. Sang Spanish songs to the General in the evening. Tuesday 22nd May. Started for town at 10 in the steamcutter. Went to Stamboul with Henry, the General and Mr Sandison. Left Henry at the Chambers and drove on to see the subterranean Roman reservoir called the 1000 columns. It is now used by ropemakers. You have to go down many steps. It is lighted through holes in the masonry of the roof which is on a level with the road above. We then drove round the obelisks — Constantius and also the Egyptian one— and saw the 3 brazen serpents with their heads off and then went back for Henry. The President of the Chambers 2 sent down to beg me to go up to the Diplomatique Tribune. I could not believe it till Mr Sandison fetched me up. It is a small room with place for 130 members and open boxes at the side. I shrank down feeling rather shy. There was a discussion about forms of the Houses but it soon broke up. Ahmed Vefik is the President. We went to his private rooms and he gave us coffee and we met there Nurian Efendi 3 , whom I had last seen in Spain when he came there with Kamil Bey, and the V. President. We went on to the Embassy (it was the first time a lady had been seen at the Chambers) and lunched there. Mr Jocelyn and Hobart Pasha came and partook of our lunch. Henry deposited Sir Collingwood and me at Abdullah's 4 where we spent an hour being photoed. Went to Hotel Royale to call on Prince and Princesse Reuss and found them in and then down to the scala to embark and go home. Had a rather perilous journey as the steerer was a little muzzy and we bumped our bottom once and got our rudder covered with weeds and had to stop and clear them away. Ct Pisani dined and an Austrian secretary came and took tea in the evening. Wednesday 23rd May. Messenger left. Wrote letters all the morning. At 4 Henry and I went out riding with Mr Kennedy. We went by the upper road ' Probably C. Blunt, vice-consul at Adrianople. 2

Ahmed Vefik. Armenian official of the foreign ministry.

4

Abdullah Frères the Ottoman Court photographers.

- 2 9 to the new aqueduct and returned by Biiyiikdere road through a lovely road full of white and mauve asters, a kind of may, orchids and fern. Capt. Fife, Gal Dickson's ADC dined with us also Hobart Pasha who stayed the night. Mr Fawcett came to tea. Thursday 24th May. The Gal and Henry went to Pera on the steamcutter to see the Sultan and did not return till nearly 3 . 1 painted all the morning a rose bud. At 5 had to dress to go to dine at Pera with Ct Zichy the Austrian ambassador. Mrs Baring came while I was dressing and sat in my room. At a quarter to six we went on board the Antelope and went down to Pera where we had a carriage to meet us. Found all the servants in grand get up and a grand porter in cocked hat with a staff with a silver crown on it and covered with a [illegible] of silver lace. Cavasses and Hungarian soldiers on each other step. Nearly all the heads of missions were at the dinner. The Count took me in and Henry took Princess Reuss. I had Ct Corti on the other side of me. We waited for some time for the Persian ambassador and had to sit down to table without him. He turned up later. We dined in a king of interior ballroom — a fine room. There was a very fine plate, specially a service of dessert knives and forks, very old and fine silver work. The dinner was good and over in one hour and a half notwithstanding we were 30 people. After dinner the Austrian consul Mr Felch played the piano, a most brilliant performer. We had to leave early as we had to return to Therapia. We brought Mr de Moiiy home. But we did not get home till 12.30. The Trieste mail came in this afternoon and we had the letter bag with us and got a lot of English letters. Friday 25th May. Col. Baker's wife 1 came with Mrs Baring to call upon me. She is a nice looking person, very tall and large and fair, with a good natured face. She seemed very shy and unhappy. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to dine with us also Sir Henry and Lady Davis and Mr Kennedy. All the world was in a stir at this affair of the Softas who had yesterday forced their way into the Chambers to insist upon a change in the Ministry in consequence of which the town of Constantinople was declared put into a state of siege. Vefik declared there is little importance in the affair and that the Chambers will not be dissolved as is expected. Vefik returned home in his caique, the Davis' are staying at Petala's hotel. Saturday 26th May. Went out to the terrace and began my sketch of the archway to the garden. Lady Davis came ant sat and worked with me till lunch. At 4 we went out riding with the Davis and Mr Kennedy. We went by the Biiyiikdere road to the aqueduct and from there Mr Kennedy undertook to show us the way through the woods to Belgrade but he lost his way and took ' Valentine Baker, Baker Pasha in the Ottoman service.

- 30 us rather a round way so that we had a long though lovely ride and came out of the wood upon a bend or artificial lake made by damming a valley, We returned by the road to the aqueduct and from there over the hills home. We only got back just in time to dress for dinner. Sunday 27th May. Played the harmonium at the service which on account of the bad weather we were obliged to have in the corridor. Lady Davis helped me to sing. The sailors arrived half an hour late thinking service was at 11. It was too wet to go out all day. I tried to tame my gold finch who is very wild but sings well. Baring, Ashburnham, Kennedy, Smijth, Pisani, Sandison, Dickson, M. de Moiiy and Hobart Pasha dined, the latter slept here. Monday 28th May. Went on with my sketch all the morning. At 2 went out in the steam launch with Henry who was going to call on Safvet Pasha 1 . We took the Davis and Kennedy. Left Henry at the Pasha's, went a little way further down the Bosphorus but he was not ready when we returned so we went on again to a village called Q'ubuklu where we landed and took a walk looking for ferns and flowers and digging up roots of a dwarf holly and oak. The cutter went back for Henry and brought him to us. We sat down under some magnificent plane trees and had coffee and Rahat locoum and Henry a chibouque. We then returned home. The Davis came in to tea in the evening and I sang a little. Kennedy, Mr Walsh of the Antelope and Gal Dickson dined with us. Tuesday 29th May. Finished my first sketch of gateway this morning. At 4 Henry rode with Mr Kennedy and I went out walking. Went to the Hotel Petala to Mrs Baring's room to pay a visit to Mrs Baker and afterwards we went on to Mme Parniss and found her in, to Mme Kallerdji 2 , Mrs Sarell, Mme Mavrocordato 3 and old Mrs Guarracino who were all at home. We finished up at the Zarifis' who were also at home and to my astonishment it was after 7 when I got home. Gal Dickson (who has left us and gone to the hotel) came to dine and also Ct Pisani, Ashburnham, and Mr Walsh of Antelope. Wednesday 30lb May. Messenger left. Wrote letters all the morning. Lady Davis called for a few minutes in the morning. Walked in the garden with Henry. Had tea out of doors. The weather was fine though not hot. Mr Austin 4 , corresp. of Times who replaces Gallenga came to dine and sleep. M. and Mme Condouriotis, Kennedy, Dickson, Lady Kemball and Persian Ambassador dined with us. ' The foreign minister. Possibly the wife of the former Greek chargé d'affaires in Constantinople. ^ A Greco-Romanian family of Phanariot origin. 4

Ch. Austin.

- 31 Thursday 31st May. Spent the morning in the garden planing out the new terrace near the flag staff. Count Zichy came to call and I received him till Henry was ready. He stayed to luncheon. After lunch Dr Dickson called. I went out to the garden again in the afternoon to walk with Henry. Gal Sir Collingwood, Capt. Fife, Count Pisani dined. Friday 1st June. Messenger arrived and Mr Francis Elliot 1 . Had my first Turkish lesson of M. Manas 2 . Rather a headache and idle all morning. After lunch we went out in the caique with the Davis, the Gal and Mr Kennedy to Rumeli Hisar to call on Ahmed Vefik. Found him in true Turkish costume — a loose cotton dressing gown and a few pelisses lined with grey cashmere. Prince Reuss was calling at the time but he soon left. Lady D. and I went to the harem, the ladies were in common cotton gowns. The grandchild came in dressed up in a ya§mak and ferace. They dressed up Lady Davis and she went to the garden leading the child. We sat on cushions on the ground in the garden and the Pasha showed us his trees of which he is proud. We stayed till after 6 and then started home. Just as we were leaving home to go and see Vefik we saw the Sultan pass by in his yacht up to the Black Sea and soon after we returned the forts began to fire their salutes and the Sultan passed back again. The General, Mr Heathcote (Antelope), Mr Elliot, Smijth, the Davis and Mr Ashburaham dined with us staying the evening. Saturday 2nd June. Today we keep the Queen's birthday. Count Zichy came up in state in his despatch boat all dressed up to call and stayed at luncheon with us. I dined early and alone and there was a dinner of 30 to the English colony. In the evening 1 received and a good many of the corps diplomatique and the English at Therapia came and we had a pleasant evening. Refreshments were given in the dining room after the dinner was cleared away. All went off well. Sunday 3rd June. The usual service and I played the harmonium. Dr Woodward 3 stayed to lunch after service and we walked in the garden till lunch time. After lunch we went in the steam launch to Kandilli and took Mrs W. Hanson and Miss Boyd down with us, as they came up to the service. We went first to Mrs W. Hanson whose house is on the water's edge. Had tea with her and there she sent me up in a chair to Mrs Arthur Hanson who lives half way up. After paying her a visit and admiring her fernery we went up to the top to old Mrs Hanson's where Mr Henry Hanson met us, his mother being away in town. We walked through her garden to Mrs Henry Hanson's which is even higher up to pay her a visit. We then returned to Mr W. H. and 1

Son of Sir Henry Elliot.

2

Probably Edvar Manas Efendi, an Armenian journalist.

3

Probably a faculty from Robert College.

- 32 reembarked to go home. Mr Gribble who came yesterday to dine and sleep remained also this night. The Embassy excepting the Barings dined with us. Monday 4th June. Princess Nazli Halil came to pay me a visit and stayed from 3 till 5. She asked to see Henry and saw him unveiled. She brought a companion, Miss Meyrick with her. Gave her coffee and cigarettes and tea. At 6 Mrs Sandison came down to stay with us. Tuesday 5th June. Turkish lesson. Went with Mrs Sandison to walk in the Pasha of Egypt's gardens which are most beautifully kept. Had a very pleasant afternoon. Henry and General Dickson went to dine with the Grand Vizier. Mrs Sandison and I dined en tête à tête. In the evening, the Davis came in to tea. Henry came home about 11 o'clock. Wednesday 6lh June. Directly after breakfast Mrs Sandison, Lady Davis and I went in the steam launch to Stamboul. We took Count Zichy with us. He had breakfasted with us and slept at Count Corti's. We went to the Persian Khan to look for carpets but could get none at our price. We went to the Bedestan and I bought a pair of scissors for a Turkish inkstand. We then went to Count Zichy's to lunch. As we went up the hill our horses jibbed and we had to jump out quickly. The Count showed us his garden and then gave us lunch and showed us his antiquities and then walked us through the French Embassy garden to our carriages. We drove to our Embassy and waited there for the Balls1 who arrived yesterday and are to come and stay with us. Mr Ball said he would go down by carriage and Mrs B. came with us. Lady Thomas called. Thursday 7lh June. Sat talking with Mrs Ball all the morning. After lunch, Henry, the Balls and I went out in the big caïque. We went over to the Sultan's valley to walk and look for wild flowers of which Mr Ball has an enormous collection. We then went to Çubuklu where we found more flowers and there took coffee and Henry his nargeleh under the trees, and afterwards came home. At luncheon we had Mrs Henry and Mrs Wellesby Hanson and Lady Kemball and we discussed the affairs of the Ladies Society in aid of the sick and wounded Turks of which they made me President. It was determined that we should meet again next Thursday and in the meanwhile collect money. Had a headache and had to leave the dinner table and go to bed. Friday 8111 June. Better this morning. At 12 the Antelope arrived opposite our house with Ahmed Vefik Pasha and 15 members of the Turkish Parliament we invited to breakfast. We took them out into the garden, spread a carpet and had chairs, coffee and pipes in the grove. There we sat some on chairs, some on the carpet till 1 when we went in to breakfast. We had the member for Yemen, an intelligent, slight dark handsome young Arab sheikh 1

Unable to identify.

- 33 in a dark flowing garment and turban and yellow silk and twisted gold cords around it. He had fine lively eyes and a splendid row of teeth. Next me on my right was Ahmed Vefik and on the left a tall solemn man in a tall white felt Dervish's hat with a green turban round it— the member for Mecca. They all ate very tidily and cleverly considering that many had never used a knife and fork before. The only funny thing one honorable member did was to put his strawberries into his finger basin which was full of water and to pour the powdered sugar into the saucer. Ahmed Vefik gave the health of the Queen and then Henry gave the "Sultan", A.V. then gave my health and Henry the Chambers and their President, then A. V. gave Henry's health and we retired to the garden for coffee and pipes. At 3.30 the Antelope fetched them and took them back to Constantinople. As soon as the Antelope returned Henry had to send off the steam cutter to BiiyUkdere to take possession of an English ship which had been seized by the Greeks. The party was led by Mr Sandison who came back and said it had been done without any resistance. The Balls and Davis were at today's breakfast but the Balls had to leave in the middle of it as they had to catch the steamer which started this afternoon for Trieste. Mrs and Miss Zarifi called. Nobody to dinner except the General. Saturday 9th June. Wrote letters in the chestnut avenue in the garden all morning. Dr Millingen came to call and stayed to lunch. Ct. Zichy came in the middle of lunch. At 4 we went out for a ride with the Davis' and Capt. Fife as far as the aqueduct. Cap. Fife, Ashburnham and Count Pisani dined with us. Lady Kemball, Mr and Mme Parniss, M. and Mme Kallerdji and Count Corti came to tea. Sunday 10th June. Dr. Washburn did the service and I played the harmonium. He did not stay to lunch. After lunch Henry and I, the General and Mr Kennedy went out on the caique to Biiyiikdere and called on Prince and Princess Reuss and then went on to the Condouriotis and found them all in. We then went northwards the Black Sea and landed at a village under the Genoese castle on the hill. It was very hot. The Embassy, Smijth, Elliot, Kennedy, Pisani, Sandison, the General and Lady Kemball, Adm. Hobart. Monday 11th June. Henry went down to see Safvet Pasha so he took me with him in the slow launch and I went to call on Mrs W. Hanson and there Mrs H. Hanson met me and we discussed the affairs of the Society for the relief of the Turkish sick and wounded of which they have asked me to be president and we agreed to have a meeting on Thursday. Tuesday 12th June. I got up early and had my Turkish lesson at 9. At 10 we started to got to breakfast with Ahmed Vefik Pasha and took the Davis with us. When we got there we began to fear he did not expect us as he was not visible. It turned out that he did expect us but that he had been into town

- 34 and had just returned. He took us to the top of his tower which is part of the fortress built by the original Turks who took Constantinople and | I | saw the apartment in it which is called Sultan Mahomed's. The Pasha told us that this tower had been used to hold a garrison until 40 years ago. We returned to the house to breakfast. We ate off a regular Turkish table with turned up edges like our trays. We had innumerable dishes all brought in curious order, the fish being towards the end. It was impossible even to taste them all. What I liked was muhallebi, a dish of rice and cream. We went afterwards to the harem and had ices and then to the garden and did not start home till after 2. Wednesday 13"1 June. Messenger left for England. We went out riding with the Davis and rode round by the aqueduct. Had a dinner party, the Davis', Ct Corti, the Kallerdjis, Hobart Pasha, M. Thouvenel 1 and M. Biegeleben 2 . Thursday 14th June. Henry went off in the morning to see Safvet Pasha. I walked to Petala's hotel to see Mrs Baring who is ill. Prince and Princess Reuss and Mme d'Ehrenhoff came to luncheon and we had afterwards a committee meeting to decide what we should do for the sick and wounded . We settled to make sheets and pillows for 300 beds for Batoum hospital which is under Dr Temple's 3 direction. After a deal of talking we decided that Mrs Henry Hanson should buy the stuff and we should at once begin. I went up to the village to pay some visits but found no one in. Went on to the Fawcetts where there was a lawn dinner party and stayed a little while. Miss Boyd, Admiral Hobart's niece came to stay with us. The Davis' came to bid us good bye as they leave tomorrow for Brusa. Friday 15th June. Had my Turkish lesson, and then went up to the work room with Miss Boyd and began work at the sheets. Dr Dickson came up and gave us his advice. Mrs Arthur Hanson called and Lady Kemball. Miss Boyd went to dine with Lady Kemball. We had a rainy day and I went out in the garden in a waterproof hat in the evening. It came on to pour and when we went to dine with Corti I had to be carried in Lady Elliot's garden chair. I sat between General Dickson and Corti. The Dragoman's wife Mme Vernoni did the honours. The Tuckermans 4 dined there also and the Serkis' and Ct Zichy. The rain had a little abated when we came home. Saturday 1601 June. Ct Zichy came and breakfasted with us. At 101 and Miss Boyd started in the steam launch for Kadikoy. We took about 2 hours and a half to go down there. It was very hot. We saw the ships in the distance ' H . L. Thouvenel, son of former French ambassador E. Thouvenel. 2

a 4

R. Baron von Biegeleben, secretary of the Austro-Hungarian embassy. British doctor in the Ottoman service. Charles K. Tuckerman had been US minister at Athens.

- 35 coming with the Egyptian troops. We went to Mrs Sandison's and were met by Mme Bilinsky who took us to their house. After resting we walked out to call on the English ladies living at Kadikôy. We did about 7 visits and then returned to Mrs Sandison and lunched. Directly after lunch we had to start off to pay more visits but we got a carriage to go in as it was hot. At about 4.30 we left Kadikôy and started home. In the Bosphorus we found the Egyptian transports just arrived and Prince Hasan's 1 yacht was in front of his palace and his things were being disembarked. We got home just in time to be in shelter from a tremendous thunderstorm which lasted all the evening. Mr Gribble arrived to stay with us. Sunday 17th June. Mr Gribble did the service. Miss Boyd played the harmonium, there was a communion service. Directly after Service Henry and I went off in the 3-oared caique to Zarifi's to a breakfast given in our honour. It poured with rain. We had to go up to breakfast at the kiosque. I was put into a garden chair and wheeled up through the storm. It would have been a pretty fête only the view was invisible on account of the rain. There were there the Condouriotis, Corti and several relations of our host. The feeding was like a dinner and lasted as long. About 4 there was a lull and we went away but it rained again as soon as we got into the caïque. At dinner, Miss Boyd, Mr Gribble, Lady Kemball, Ashburnham, Pisani, Kennedy, Sandison, Mr Elliot, the General, the Admiral, Mr Smijth. Monday 18th June, [no entry]. Tuesday 19th June. Henry expected Prince Hasan to pay him a visit and so we put off going out riding till 5 and then Miss Boyd and Mr Kennedy and I was obliged to go out alone. We got two hours' ride. We found the Prince had not come after all. Wednesday 20th June. Wrote for messenger who started today. Mrs W. Hanson came and afterwards took Miss Boyd away with her. They went in Mr Elliot's sailing skiff. Mr Elliot was going to stay down at Kandilli. We went to dine with Prince and Princess Reuss at Biiyukdere. Met the Herberts 2 and some gentlemen. People went there in the evening and there was some singing, Mme Ternau Bey 3 sang and her husband accompanied her. Thursday 21st June. Started with Henry in the "mouche" at 8 AM to go to Beyler Bey and called at the Hanson yali on the way to pick up Mr Elliot, Mrs Arthur and Mrs W. Hanson and Mrs Henry's daughter Helda. At Beyler Bey, we found carriages ready and a horse for the cavass. Henry went with 1 Prince Hasan, the son of Khedive Ismail Pasha was the commander of the Egyptian contingent sent to fight against the Russians.

9

Baron Herbert, counsellor at the Austro-Hungarian embassy. Wife of the director of the Constantinople waterworks.

- 36 Mrs Arthur and Helda, I with Mrs W. and Mr Elliot. At a bungalow which was half way to Alemdag we stopped to rest the horses and had coffee and cakes. We got to the woods of Alemdag about 12 o'clock and met the Henry Hansons, Miss Boyd, Mrs Kennedy and Graham (Helicon), Capt. Wingfield, Miss Cumberbatch and her brother1 all who had ridden from Kandilli. We fell into a lot of Turkish ladies in white feraces, many of them had their veils loose and hardly took the trouble to put their yagmaks up when they passed the European men. We saw fires lighted and whole lambs being cooked on wooden skewers. We found Mrs Hy Hanson unpacking and preparing our lunch in a dell with a spring and a stream in it. We at once helped to spread the food on the ground and then set to work to eat. Afterwards we took our spuds, trowels and pickaxes and set out in search of fern roots of which we got a quantity and Mrs Hanson hired a "araba" to carry them home. After 2 hours digging we were hot and exhausted and glad of tea and then had to gather up our things and walk to the carriages. I returned in the carriage with Mr Elliot and Mrs Arthur. We drove to the Sultan kiosque at the Sweet Waters of Asia past the Sultan's farm which was a very pretty drive. We found the mouche waiting for us there and started home at 6.30 getting home exactly at 8. Had dinner alone. Friday 22nd June. Had my lesson in Turkish. Prince and Prince Reuss came to dine and brought Mile Einsiedel 2 to meet Hobart Pasha, Corti and a few other came to tea in the evening. Saturday 23rd June. Was out in the morning seeing after the making of the fernery and in the afternoon sat out in the garden with Henry. News that the Russians have crossed the Danube at the Dobroutcha. I played lawn tennis with Messrs Smijth and Elliot. Admiral Hobart and Corti came to tea in the evening. Sunday 24th June. We had the usual service and Miss Boyd came over from Kandilli to play the organ. In the afternoon Dr Sarell came and tried to persuade me to join our society for the wounded to the Red Crescent which we refused to do. Went out in the big caique with Henry, Miss B., Kennedy, Elliot, the Admiral and the General over to the Sultan's valley and took a walk to the small Sultan's kiosque but could not go far as rain threatened and we took a row round by Biiyukdere home. Lady Kemball, Mme Ehrenhoff, the Admiral, Kennedy, Ashburnham, Smijth, Pisani, the General, Sandison, Elliot, Miss Boyd dined with us. Miss Boyd slept here. Monday 25th June. Just as we were going to lunch Mrs Sandison and Mme Bilinsky called. They had come over to see Mr Sandison and he had 1

An Anglo-Levantine family.

2

Unable to identify.

- 37 gone away so I asked them to lunch as we lunched at 2. Miss Boyd and I accompanied Henry in the mouche and left him with Safvet Pasha and went on to Kandilli to meet Mrs Wellesley Hanson to talk over the Relief of Wounded work. Henry called for us and took us to Hisar where in the hot sun we toiled up to the Robert College where we were expected by Dr Washburn 1 and introduced to his wife — the youngest looking woman of her age I ever saw. She had a grown up son and looked about 19 herself. We were also introduced to Dr Long's 2 daughter. Had tea there and went to see the library and museum which is well kept and has an English curator. It contains some very rare specimens of the birds of this country. We went off again to the mouche and were just embarking when we saw Ahmed Vefik in his caique and we made him go home with us to dine. When we got back to Therapia they left me at Petala's and I paid one or two visits amongst them to Mme Ternau and then returned home where I found the Pasha smoking his pipe in the garden. Then he and I set to work gardening and trimming roses till the dinner bell had rung and I had to rush in. Tuesday 26th June. I had rather a headache but struggled through my Turkish lesson. Mr Kennett came to lunch to talk over distributing money of the Stafford House Committee for the sick and wounded. Dr Fetherstonehaugh and Dr Casson came also, 2 English doctors sent out to go to the Army and we had a long talk over these matters. They decide to go to Erzeroum to join Sir Arnold Kemball. Henry said he would give them letters but he could not put them on Sir Arnold's staff. When they were gone, I went to lie down. Miss Boyd went out riding with Henry and Mr Kennedy. Mr Condouriotis came in the evening with his daughter. She had a sick headache and was taken worse and had to go to my room. Messrs Smijth and Kennedy and Capt. W and the General dined with us. Wednesday 27th June. Wrote to send by messenger while Miss Boyd went to see Lady Kemball and arrange about taking her out this afternoon. At 4 we went out in the mouche with Miss Boyd, the Admiral, the General, Messrs Kennedy and Elliot, Lady Kemball and Mile d'Ehrenhoff. Henry seeing the boat so full would not come with us. We went to a small village on the Asiatic side called Korfez where we were met by the Hanson ladies and others and they gave us a picnic tea and there we got some roots of ferns and got back home at 7.30. Miss Boyd returned to Mrs A. Hanson's. Thursday 28th June. Wrote and sat about in the garden with Henry and played a little lawn tennis.

' G. Washburn, President of Robert College. A. Long, tutor in natural sciences at Robert College.

- 38 Friday 29 t h June. Very fatiguing morning picking up bedding for Batoum and box for Dr Casson. At 1 I began making invitations for next Friday's garden party with M r Sandison. Hobart Pasha came today to stay with us. Lunched at 1.30 and went out in mouche with Henry to pay visits. W e called on Persian Ambassador who fetched me in and gave me tea and then took me into his harem. His wife is ugly and fat and dressed in fashionable French way. They have a fine old Turkish house. W e then called on the 2 Mesdames Caratheodory 1 and found them in and then went on to Yenikoy to call on the Condouriotis but the cutter got aground and got a stone into the machinery so we had to wait till it was put right by one o f the men who got into the water with a hammer. W e then came straight home. Had a grand official dinner for ministers and high employees and sat down 2 9 . After dinner several of the Diplomatic Corps came. It was a very hot night. The Turks smoked in the corridor and garden and did not leave till 11 as they had their own steamer. Everybody was gone by 12. Saturday 30 th June. Wrote and sent out invitations for next Friday. Sunday 1st July. Usual service. Miss Boyd arrived just in time to play the harmonium. In the afternoon she went out with the General and M r Kennedy and returned to Kandilli afterwards and I started to go with Henry to pay visits in the 3-pair oar. W e went to the Zarifis and were told the family were up at the kiosk and so we toiled up there. W e found Zarifi in a fur pelisse conversing with some men. However soon Miss Zarifi and Mme Negroponte and some girls arrived having come to play croquet. W e left there intending to go to Biiyiikdere where we saw Ct Zichy's mouche and Henry reached to speak to him. I went home and had tea in the garden. Prince Reuss and Radolinski 2 called and had tea with me and waited for Henry. It came on to pour so we gave up going out again. M r Austin, General, Admiral, Kennedy, Ashburnham, Elliot, Sandison, the Ct., Smijth dined with us. M r Applin whom we asked refused at the last moment. Monday 2 nd July. It poured hard all night and there were showers all today but I managed to go out and give directions about arranging the garden for Friday. Went out walking in the garden with Henry in the afternoon and went with Mr Smijth in the quay to see about fishing but found it no use as the fish would not bite. It was lovely between the showers and there was a fine rainbow. When the Admiral returned from town he told us that Redif was to start tomorrow for the seat of war and that the Sultan was furious with him at the state of the army in Europe. Henry also announced that tomorrow our fleet will be at Besika B a y . 1 Mother and wife of A. Caratheodory Bey/Pasha, an Ottoman Greek, future foreign minister.

2 Hugo Graf von Radolinsky, counsellor at the German

embassy.

- 39 Tuesday 3rd July. Had a headache and did not feel up to much. At 3 Mrs H. and Mrs W. Hanson and Lady Kemball came and we had a committee for the Relief Fund and decided to undertake work for the Red Crescent. At 5 I went out to the garden, had tea and laid down on the garden sofa. The General joined me there. Henry also came and sat with me having had Said Pasha with him for 2 hours. We meant to have ridden but gave it up on account of my headache. News that the Russians had been beaten totally in Asia and that the siege of Kars would be abandoned by them. After dinner we sat on the terrace at the back of the house till M. Negroponte 1 came and carried Henry off. We had tea in the corridor, the Herberts, Radolinski and M. de Chatel 2 came to tea and we sat on the terrace till 11. Wednesday 4th July. Wrote two letters for Messenger who went by the new Brindisi mail and then went up to workroom and made triangular bandages on the machine. Henry went away at 12 in the mouche to see the Sultan and did not return till about 5 . 1 sat and worked in the garden. It was very hot. The General joined me and he said the defeat of the Russians was confirmed. Mr Wrench and Capt. Studley 3 called, later M. d'Ehrenhoff. After dinner we sat on the balcony and at 9.30 Henry, the General and I went in the mouche to the Reuss. Not many people there. Thursday 5 th July. The Admiral (Hobart) stayed at home and helped me with suggestions for tomorrow's party. It was a very hot day. Mr Fawcett came to offer us a croquet set and tent which we had just put up and Capt. Stopford came to talk about putting up a tent on the terrace. We settled to send down and beg the Turks to lend us one and sent the steam launch with the cavass. I nearly lost "Coco" 4 .1 put him out on a tree and left him there some time and when I went for him I could not find him. After calling and making Hill call he answered we thought from the top of a tree but to our surprise we found him in the tool house. At 5.30, went out riding with Hobart, Henry, Miss d'Ehrenhoff and Mr Kennedy. We went to the farm of [blank] and round by the village beneath the aqueduct. Had a splendid view of Black Sea which was the first time I had seen it. We got home just at 8 o'clock. Mr Kennedy and Miss d'Ehrenhoff left us and rode home before us. Sang after dinner to Admiral Hobart. Friday 6th July. Spent the morning getting garden in order, getting the big tent put up, carpets and chairs and stools put about in the garden. Miss ' M.Z. Negroponte, Greek merchant. See The Queen's

2

Ambassador.

Possibly Arsène de Chatel, a Capucin priest co-author of Histoire de la Latinité Constantinople, 2°d ed. 1894. Unable to identify. 4

A green parrot bought in Gibraltar.

de

- 40 Boyd came down from Kandilli to stay a day or two and as they could not be present at our party on account of their mourning they watched us from the meadows and then went out riding. I dressed directly after lunch. At 3 people began to arrive. The Marine band procured by Hobart Pasha played and a croquet party was begun, people kept arriving till nearly 6. They had refreshments in the grove. The young ladies clamoured to dance so we agreed to it and they had a quadrille and a polka and then a Sir Roger which they danced at a galop line. At 7 everybody had departed. We had not very many Turks. Mahmud Damad Pasha 1 being the only swell Turk. He is a fine man only over fat. People seemed to enjoy themselves wonderfully. Zichy stayed and dined with us and we sat out on the balcony afterwards. He stayed the night at Corti's. I suppose we had about 170 people today. Saturday 7lh July. It was so fine that we went and sat in the grove and had the sewing machine out. Hobart Pasha was very unwell and stayed with us today. Rassam 2 arrived from England and stayed with us. After lunch I returned to the machine and stuck to it till dinner time making pads for the wounded which Mr Rassam turned inside out as I made them. I made 10 dozen today. Sat out on the balcony. Henry rode with Miss Boyd today. Corti came to tea as also Mr Kennedy, Miss d'Ehrenhoff and Lady Kemball. Sunday 8 th July. Admiral Hornby arrived from Besika Bay in time for 9 o'clock. Breakfast in the Helicon which Henry had sent for him. We had service at 10.30. Mr Washburn came for it. Sat out in the grove till luncheon. The Duke of Edinburgh 3 came up from Besika with the Admiral and is living on board the Helicon; he came to call on Henry and me about 12. After luncheon we went out in the 10-oared caique and went to Beykoz where we waited for H.R.H. He joined us there and landed and took a walk and then we took him on in our caique to £ubuklu where we landed and made keif and had nargileh and coffee and then returned the Duke to the Helicon and came home. Our party at dinner was the 2 admirals — English and Turkish, General Dickson, Rassam, Kennedy, Ashburnham, Elliot, Smijth, Sandison, the Count and Miss Boyd. Monday 9th July. Began making the mattress covers for the Red Crescent. Had the machine taken out to the grove and worked there with Miss Boyd all the morning despite a headache which I had. We made 8 mattress covers before lunch. After lunch Miss Boyd returned to Kandilli in Miss Sarell's 3 pair boat and I and Henry went out in our 3 pair caique to Hisar to 1

Brother in law of the Sultan. See The Queen's

2

H. Rassam, companion of H. Layard during his travels in Mesopotamia.

3

Ambassador.

Second son of Queen Victoria, married to a Russian grand-duchess. He was then in command of a ship of the Royal Navy detached to the Levant.

- 41 call on Ahmed Vefik. They told us at the village that he was gone to town in his caique so we went across to Mrs Willy Hanson's and there found Miss Boyd. We had some tea and then rowed home. H.R.H. the Duke of Edinburgh, Prince and Princess Reuss, Mile Einsiedel , Capt. Stopford, Capt. Wingfield, Mr Rassam, Admiral Hornby, General Dickson and Mr Kennedy was our dinner party. The Duke stayed till 12 making and drinking brandy and soda in the corridor. Tuesday 10th July. Had my Turkish lesson. Made more mattresses. Copied letters and despatches for Henry till it was too late to go to the lawn tennis party given by the Antelope in the Khedive's gardens 1 . Went and sat out in the garden with Henry and had tea in the grove. Wednesday l l l h July. It came on to blow hard in the night and was very rough all today. Wrote letters for the messenger who left and made 8 more mattresses. The General and Hobart Pasha dined at the Reuss. We had the d'Ehrenhoff and Herberts, Ct Pisani and Rassam to dinner. It came on to pour just before diner and was a very wild night. Thursday 12th July. Poured all day. Worked had at finishing up the mattresses to send off in the evening. The Helicon took the Duke of Edinburgh and the Admiral back to Besika. The Duke had dined last night at the Reuss' and he had had a great discussion with Hobart Pasha, all in good part. He upbraided the Pasha as serving the Turks and said he had done himself much harm by his letter on the subject to the Times. Having praised the Turks as willing to fight without pay, he himself was the only man paid! Hobart said he could not see anything in that and the Duke was too Russian but that was owing to having a Russian wife. He was not in love with a Russian nor likely to marry one so he saw things in a different light. He said the Queen was not of the same opinion as her son. At which the Duke replied she was quite wrong on this subject. The Duke said he was Commander in Chief of the Russian fleet in the Danube and Hobart said then go and take the command tomorrow and I will come after you the next day and bring you back! Yesterday the Duke went to the Arsenal to see Hobart and asked to see the Russian prisoners. This has made a great stir. He gave him his card and told him he was his superior officer. He has promised him his old Russian uniform and some papers. In the afternoon the rain stopped a little and I went in the garden but the wind was to high to stop out long. Friday 13th July. Took Turkish lesson but had rather shivers. Had to go and lie down in the afternoon. After lunch Miss Boyd and Mrs W. Hanson. Received £44 from Sir wounded and £5 from Mrs Baker. Henry went out in the 3 1

In Emirgan.

a headache and had a visit from C. Dickson for pair oars to see

- 42 Ahmed Vefik. I got up again to dinner. The Reuss, M. Condouriotis and Ct Corti came to tea in the evening. Smijth and Ashburnham dined with us. Saturday 14th July. Practised guitar and worked. At 3.30 went with Henry in the iiggiftli to Büyükdere and found the Prince and Princess Reuss assembled with some friends to see a regatta between the sailors of their gunboats. They gave them prizes and then we all went into the garden where there were sports for the sailors — ninepins — running in sacks etc. We had tea and the sailors beer. Mr Gribble arrived to stay with us. Mr Kallerdji and Serkis Efendi came in the evening. I played the harmonium. Sunday 15th July. Very hot day. Miss Boyd came over to play the organ at the service. Dr Dickson came during lunch. Mme Carathéodory called in the afternoon. Mr Young and Dr Leslie called, have just arrived with £7000 worth of things for wounded in a ship chartered for 6 months, the Belle of Dunkerque. Had tea in the garden. Lady Kemball and Mme d'Ehrenhoff dined with us besides Mr Gribble, Hobart, Dickson, Sandison, Pisani, Smijth, Kennedy, Elliot, Ashburnham. Monday 16th July. Still very hot. Wrote Turkish exercise. Practised guitar. Henry went at 12 to see Safvet Pasha and came back while I was at luncheon. Sat about in the garden and had tea there. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came. Mr Reade 1 called. Trimmed and cut trees with Ahmed Vefik Pasha till dinner time. He dined and went home after dinner. Tuesday 17"1 July. Very hot. Sirocco. Walked with Henry for 1/2 hour after breakfast. Had Turkish lesson. Made 8 mattresses. Mrs H. and Mrs W. Hanson called. At 5 dressed and went to Petala's to fetch General Dickson and went to garden party at Khedive's gardens given by Lady Thomas for lawn tennis. Stayed about 3/4 hour. Came back, fetched Henry and went for a row towards Büyükdere. Mr Austin, Mr Edwards R.N 2 ., and Captain Fife dined with us. Herbert and Galvagna 3 came to tea. Wednesday 18th July. Wrote letters to go by messenger. Sat out in the garden and had tea there. Col. Baker called to see Henry and they walked up and down. Capt. Stopford dined with us. Went afterwards in the steam launch to the Reuss. Thursday 19th July. I went to bathe in our bath house and had a couple of dips. I was waked at 7 and after bathing wrote till breakfast time. Lunched at 1 and after lunch Henry and Rassam went down to the examination at the Robert College. Dr Dickson called. I spent the afternoon in the grove and practiced the guitar there. M. and Mme Issaverdens called. Miss Boyd and Mr ' R. Reade, British consul in Rustchuk and Varna. Ch. R. Edwards, an English engineer working at the Ottoman Arsenal. Fr. Calvagna, secretary at the Italian legation.

-43

-

Graham dined with us. Made bandages and played the guitar in the evening and I sang. Friday 20th July. Went to bath soon after 7. Wrote till breakfast and practiced guitar. At 4, Mile Zarifi, the 3 Mrs Hansons, Miss Boyd, Messrs Smijth, Kennedy and Elliot came and we had lawn tennis, croquet and Bull. Mr Rassam, General Dickson, Hobart Pasha, Henry, Capt. Woods 1 were also there. The Zarifis, Serkis', Radolinski, Corti, Count Zichy, M. de Moiiy dined with us. A good many people came in to tea. The Condouriotis came and he seemed in very bad humour — said he had had a telegram from Andrinople that Greek subjects were being attacked and the consulate burnt or nearly burnt. Saturday 21st July. Bathed before breakfast. Walked after breakfast up and down the terrace with Henry. Mr Sandison joined us and told us there was news that the Greeks had crossed the frontier to make war on Turkey. Hobart Pasha left us and went on board his ship to go into the Black Sea and take the command. He went away about 7 to the ship which was anchored opposite us but he only got under weigh just as we were going to breakfast and we waved our handkerchiefs to him as he passed and we dipped flags to each other. It is said that he did not go beyond Kavak later in the day. It was very stormy over the Black Sea and there were constant winds. Henry went to town in the big caique. I worked the machine to get the bandages ready for the sick and wounded. Could not go out as it poured in the afternoon and there was a thunderstorm just after Henry returned. At 7.30 the Red Cross ship came up here and Mr Young and Dr Leslie came to bid us goodbye. They were too late to go out tonight but intend starting at daybreak tomorrow. Mr Elliot, Mr Woodford (Messenger) and Mr Kennedy dined with us. Bandages made after dinner. Sunday 22"d July. Dr Thompson did the service. Miss Boyd played the harmonium. M. et Mme Caratheodory called. Walked in garden with Henry. Col. Applin and Dr Patterson called. Lady Kemball, Miss Boyd, Ashburnham, Sandison, Pisani, Elliot, General Dickson, Smijth, Mr Woodford, Kennedy dined. Monday 23rd July. Bathed and wrote all morning. Lunched at 1. 30. Went in steam launch to town to call Princess Nazli. Stayed with her till 5. She was dressed in white cambric. Her hair in 2 plaits and a pink gauze handkerchief on her head fastened on with diamonds and opal pins. She wore a pink sash and her dress was about 3 yards on the ground. It was very rough coming home and rain threatened . M. Biegeleben and Ehrenhoff came to tea in the evening. ' A British naval officer in the Ottoman service.

- 4 4 Tuesday 24th July. Bathed, practiced guitar and read in the morning, had a headache and had to lie down all the afternoon. Got up for dinner. Ashburnham dined with us. Prince and Princess Reuss and Corti came to tea in the evening. Wednesday 25th July. Did not bath but got up at 7 to write and again after breakfast went on till lunch time when the messenger went off. Went and sat in the garden with Henry. Bad news of the war — the Russians are advancing. Mrs Scudamore 1 and Mrs Tuckerman left for England. Mr Ashburnham left also on leave. Mr Kennedy and Ct Pisani dined with us. After dinner, I and the General, Rassam and Kennedy went in the steam launch to the Reuss. A lovely moonlit night. Zichy called on Henry today. Thursday 26th July. Bathed and wrote to Clarita 2 . After breakfast began to prepare for painting but was interrupted by visits from Dr and Mrs Washburn and Dr Dickson and Mr and Mrs Simmons 3 and Lord Melgund who had arrived from the seat of the war and told us about all he saw. He and Mr Austin lunched with us and afterwards we all went off in the caique to see the cricket match between the Helicon and the Antelope. Found there the Reuss', Lady Thomas, Miss Boyd and the Hanson ladies. Sat there some time and had tea. The Antelope was winning. Day was cool and windy. Mr Rassam brought news that the Sultan had changed the Sheikh el Islam as he was too much in favour of peace. One of the sacred banners is announced to be brought out and exposed to the faithful next Wednesday to excite Mussulmen to fight for the country. It is said the Austrian ambassador has begun to pack and 30 boxes went into his house yesterday. Friday 27th July. Bathed and wrote to Mme Marcello 4 . Had Turkish lesson. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to call. We begged him to return to lunch which he did. Nurian Efendi came and told us the German ladies had formed a society for the sick and wounded. After lunch Vefik gave me a Turkish lesson. At 3.30 went in the steam cutter to Prince Halim's 5 to call on his wife. Henry went in the boat and Vefik also whom we left at Hisar. Princess Halim is pretty, a Circassian, speaks French well. She was dressed European fashion in a mauve silk with a upper garment called "a la Juin" embroidered with mauve silk. Her hair plainly plaited in one and turned up in a loop. They offered me the chibouque which I declined. It had a diamond wreath round the mouthpiece. I had coffee in a cup, the zarf of which was of diamonds 1

Wife of F.I. Scudamore, director of the British Post Office in Constantinople.

2

Friend from Madrid, married to Consul W. Lennon Hunt. Unable to identify.

4

Countess Marcello, a friend from Venice.

^ Son of Mehmed Ali Pasha of Egypt.

- 45 striped with emeralds Then they brought water sweetened with honey in large gold bowls the tops of which were studded with diamonds. There were several slaves — some good looking and all gaily dressed in muslins. One was in white with pink ribbons. I stayed about an hour and then came home. It was rough and stormy looking. Mr Wrench and Mr Kennedy dined. Baker Pasha came in the evening. Saturday 28lh July. Mrs Hanson and Miss Ward 1 came to call in the morning. Mrs H. came back to lunch. Miss Boyd, Mrs Willy and Mrs Arthur Hanson came to play lawn tennis. Julian 2 and Major de Winton 3 arrived from England as extra military attachés. We had lawn tennis till dinner time and had tea in the groove. Sunday 29th July. Bathed. Service. The Helicon sailors came instead of the Antelope's who have gone down to Stamboul. Miss Boyd played. Dr Thompson officiated. Sat in the grove till luncheon. Lady Kemball came to lunch with Miss Boyd in order to take leave of us as she is leaving for England with her children on Wednesday. Capt. Molloy called having just returned from England with Yacoub Khan the Kashgar envoy. Sat in the grove with Henry and fell asleep when Zichy came and woke us. Had tea in the grove. Pisani, Sandison, Melgund, Julian, Kennedy, Elliot, Smijth, the General, Major de Winton. Monday 30th July. Bathed. Prepared Turkish. Practiced guitar. Went out riding with Henry and Mile Zarifi at 4. Corti joined us but as his horse turned restive and kicked violently at Mile Zarifi's we begged him to leave us and return to Buyukdere by road and we by the upper one across the hills. Julian, Mr Rassam and the General dined with us. Cut bandages all the evening. Tuesday 31st July. Bathed and wrote before breakfast. News of a battle near Plevna in which the Turks were victorious and the Russians have retreated. Sat out in the garden and had tea under the tent. Then Mme and Mile Zarifi called and paid their visit in the garden. Wednesday 1st August. Did not bath as the weather was bad and I had a headache so wrote letters to go by today's messenger. I could not write much and had to lie down all day. Lord Melgund left us to return to England. Miss Boyd and Lady Kemball called, Lady K. to take leave as she goes to England today with her children. General Dickson left for Besika Bay. At 4 Mme Parniss came to see me. At 5 I had some tea and went to the garden. It was

' Probably the daughter of E.M. Ward, a British trader in Constantinople. Nephew of H. Layard. 3

F.W. de Winton.

- 46 still blowing hard but was very hot and close. Major de Winton dined with us. Miss Boyd came to stay with us. Thursday 2nd August. Bathed. The bad weather a little abated. Worked, pillows etc. and practiced guitar with Miss Boyd. Visit from Mrs Newman 1 . Henry went to town in the steam launch. Mr Tuckerman called. Julian left for Pera to go off tomorrow for Andrinople. Miss Boyd and all the young secretaries went to play lawn tennis at the Fawcetts. I accompanied them as far as the village. I went to call on Mme Coüteau2 but not finding her in returned and wrote Turkish exercises. Had Sir G. and Lady Thomas, M. Montesquiou3, Ct Casanova 4 , Freiherr von Rössing (Captain of Pomeramia5) to dinner. Music and bandages in the evening. Friday 3rd August. Worked at machine and practiced guitar. At 12 a steamer containing English engineers and their families came under the Embassy and sang "God save the Queen" and then went off to the Khedive's gardens. We followed on foot and saw them all picnicking there under the trees. We arranged that at 3 they should come to the Embassy garden. The 2 Mrs Hanson came to play lawn tennis and Mile Zarifi. Mr Graham came to call so we made him stay. I took the English children up to the top of the garden and then brought them back to the grove where we seated the children on the ground and gave them fruits and syrup and biscuits and sherry and beer to the parents. At 6 they went away and the Hansons went on playing lawn tennis. We had the Fawcetts, Henry Hansons, M. Vauvineux6 and Ct Loresta 7 , Mr Elliot, the Swedish Captain and Miss Lucas8 dine with us. Saturday 4th August. Bathed and wrote before breakfast. At 10.30 Major de Winton came and he and Miss Boyd and I went upstairs to sort and count all the beds and things which we have ready for the sick and wounded. We went on without stopping till lunch time. The Kashgar envoy Yakoub Khan and Capt. Molloy came to lunch and Major de Winton stayed. The envoy has just returned from a tour in England. He is a fine looking dignified man. He wore a white turban and a long silk robe. After lunch we took him to the grove to smoke. We returned to the sorting till 4.30 when I went in the

' Wife of C. Newman, a member of the Anglican Church Mission to the Jews. 2

The Cofiteaux were a Levantine family of Belgian origin.

3

Unable to identify.

4

Unable to identify.

^ The stationnaire of the German embassy. ® Unable to identify. Unable to identify. ® Governess of the Ehrendorff children.

- 47 caique to Yenikoy to call on Mme Allahverdi 1 . She was out and I came straight home and sat in the grove had tea there and practised guitar while Henry, Miss Boyd, Major de Winton and Mr Elliot played lawn tennis. Mr Wrench came to call and joined us there. Major de Winton and Mr Smijth dined with us and we made bandages in the evening. Count Corti came to tea. He brought a report that a Russian ship had been in the mouth of the Black Sea last evening at 10 and sunk some merchant ships. Henry remembered having heard firing last night while on the balcony. Sunday 5th August. Woke with a sore throat and could not sing so I did not go to the service and Miss Boyd lead the singing. Mrs W. Hanson came over to church and stayed [for] luncheon. Ct Zichy came to call and then the new Minister for Foreign Affairs 2 , Mrs Hanson and Miss Boyd went over to the Helicon, Mr Graham came to fetch them. At 4.30 Henry and I went in the small caique to Biiyükdere to call on the Reuss and found them in. Great talk about the supposed attack of the Russian ship on the merchant vessels. It gets more confused and sounds more improbable but there are 3 large ironclads at Biiyükdere with their steam up. Princess Reuss said they did not pray for the Sultan in their Embassy chapel because he is not a Christian! We went on to the Helicon and had tea with Capt. Stopford. Christich (Serbian diplomatic agent), Mr Maynard (American minister) and Mr Tuckermann dined here besides members of Embassy. Made bandages in evening. Monday 6th August. Went out after breakfast and sat in grove while Henry and Miss Boyd practised lawn tennis. Spent the rest of the morning making bolsters for the hospital at Kavak. At 3.30 had a visit from Princess Halim Pasha. She came in her steam launch accompanied by one slave girl and a eunuch. She was beautifully dressed in a damask greyish blue dress embroidered with birds, nests and ladybirds. She took off her ferace and ya§mak. Hill 3 waited on us and brought us coffee and tea. The Princess stayed till after 5. She talked about all kinds of things, about the life of Turkish women and said she supposed things would some day change for them but that it could not be soon and perhaps their children's children might be more free. She said, "Nous sommes privées de tout", but she seemed to say it without much regret. She said they were more free in Egypt where ladies could ride. She said there was necessarily more jealousy when there were more than one wife — that women were naturally jealous all over the world and that it was the same here but, "Que faire? Heureusement je suis seule — la seule légitime." Soon after 5 she went away. In putting on her ya§mak she ' Wife of O. Allahverdi, an Armenian notable

2

Server Pasha. Enid Layard's maid.

- 48 said she did not advocate the doing away of the ya§mak as it is becoming. "Cela nous fait paraître toutes jolies." She left soon after 5 . 1 had a visit from Lady Thomas and after from a Dr Williamson who is Lady Strangford's avant-courrier and wants to prepare a hospital for her to work in. 1 referred him to the Chancery and the Red Crescent. I then took my work to the garden where I was joined by Major de Winton and Capt. Molloy and then by Mr Wrench. Henry went out riding with Mr Kennedy. Miss Boyd went out to Beykoz to join the Hansons' and walk. Just before dinner the Red Cross ship containing Mr Young came in from the Black Sea and Mr Young and 2 doctors came on shore to see Henry. One doctor was Dr Stokes who is in the Turkish service and said he had been in Circassia with the Turks and that that expedition having failed Hobart Pasha had re-embarked them and brought them away with great success to their great relief. This was near Sucum Kale. Mr Young said he had 70 wounded on board that he had brought from that place to be placed in these hospitals. Ct Pisani and Mr Kennedy dined with us. Tuesday 7th August. Worked at making pillows all day. Had Turkish lesson. Miss Boyd went to lawn tennis party given by the Antelope in Khedive's gardens. There has been a tremendous high wind. I went and sat in the grove to work and have tea. A gentleman came from the Red Crescent to see about fetching the mattresses we have ready for Kavak Hospital. Major de Winton and I went to work room to make bandages with sawing machine and Mr Young who arrived to dine and sleep came to help us. M. Pansa 1 called with a note from Maffei 2 to introduce. He is his secretary at Athens. During dinner, Mr Young gave us dreadful details of the state of the wounded. He said that very little had been done for them and much was needed, that there was only one ambulance yet at the front and 2 doctors who were working hard but not able to keep pace. We made bandages all the evening. De Winton and Molloy came and helped. Wednesday S 4 August. Cut out sheets and made over the mattresses to he Red Crescent who sent a boat to fetch them. Wrote letters to go by messengers. At 12.30 went off in the small caique with Miss Boyd to lunch with Mrs W. Hanson. Found Mr Graham of Helicon staying there. After lunch, Mr Elliot having joined us we walked up the hill and I called on Mrs Donald and then went on to Mrs H. Hanson's where they were playing tennis. We found Mr Seymour of Antelope staying there and as he and Mr Graham both played the guitar we had one out and all had a try at it and all sang to it. Dr and Mrs Washburn came there. We had tea in an arbour then a little more 1

A . Pansa, secretary at the Italian legation in Athens.

2

Ct Maffei, Italian minister at Athens. He was in Madrid with the Layards.

-49

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tennis and a little more guitar and Miss Boyd and Mr Elliot and I came home with the steam launch which called for us after having taken the messenger down to the steamer. Got home about 7.15. Sir C. Dickson returned today from Besika and he and Major de Winton and Mr Kennedy dined with us. Thursday 9th August. Up at 7.30 and worked before breakfast. Visit from Mr Prattt who has come out to aid Mr Kennett in distributing the money for sick and wounded. Had a very bad headache and after helping Miss Boyd to cut out sheets had to go and lie down in my room in the dark where I was till dinner time. Went down for dinner. The General, Mr Kennedy and Mr Smijth dined. Mr Maynard came to tea. Friday 10th August. Got up at 7.30 and wrote to Maria 1 . Had a Turkish lesson. It was very hot and oppressive. Sat in the grove and worked. At 5 Mrs H. Hanson and Mrs W. Hanson came. Miss Zarifi and we had lawn tennis. I and Miss Zarifi played a game against Henry which caused great excitement and Henry won. Mr Kennedy dined with us. We made bandages. The Reuss came to tea in the evening also Capt Molloy and Major de Winton, Kallerdji, Condouriotis and Mr Pansa, Maffei's secretary here on leave. Saturday 11 "" August. Had the sewing machine and the guitar taken to the grove and Miss Boyd and I sat there all day. I bathed and practiced the guitar before breakfast. Mr Ashley M.P. for Brighton and Mr Hearn 2 came and we asked them to stay lunch. The messenger arrived bringing 2 cases of bandages from the Queen in aid of our Ladies fund. A new secretary, Mr Leveson Gower arrived and a military attaché to our fleet, Capt. Frazer. They came and played lawn tennis as did Capt. Stopford, Messrs Smijth and Elliot. Made bandages in the evening. Sunday 12th August. Had service in the orangerie and both the Helicon and Antelope crews came. Mrs Henry and Mrs W. Hanson and children came to church. Miss Boyd and I sat in the grove and made bandages till lunch. After lunch I returned to the work and Miss Boyd went out to pay visits. The Embassy, Major de Winton and Capt. Wingfield dined with us and we made bandages after dinner. Gave Mr Wrench 500 bandages to send to Philipoppoli. Monday 13th August. Major de Winton, Miss Boyd and I spend the morning counting over store of sheets etc. and made up 2 boxes to send off to Andrinople. Henry went to town in the mouche. We played lawn tennis. Mr and Mrs W. Hanson came to stay a night. They came in time to play tennis and Capt. Stopford came over also and Capt. Frazer. Had a dinner party with

1 Maria du Cane, Enid's sister. Unable to identify.

- 50 the W. Hanson, Dr and Mrs Millingen, Capt. Frazer, M. Longeville 1 , Dr Schroeder 2 , Kennedy and Mr Whitaker 3 . After dinner a good many people came in and as there were several young people we opened the drawing room door into the corridor and played the piano for dancing. It was soon found that the piano could not be well heard so some of the gentlemen carried out into the passage. They danced till about 12 o'clock and then departed. Henry went off to bed before that. There were about 7 couples dancing at a time. Lady Burdett Coutts 4 sent Henry £1000 for the poor fugitives. Tuesday 14th August. Woke up with a tremendous thunderstorm which lasted a couple of hours. We all felt rather decousu and tired and I had neuralgia in the teeth. We worked at making bolster covers and made 24. I had a Turkish lesson. At about 3 Mrs Hanson left and Miss Boyd went out and took Miss Bilinsky who came to stay a few days with us. I walked in the garden with Henry. It came on to rain so we came in. I wrote to Sir T. Biddulph 5 about the cases sent by the Queen and then practised singing till dinner and when Miss Boyd came in she joined in. There was another thunderstorm during dinner. Mr Elliot dined. Made bandages and I sang. Wednesday 15th August. Blowing hard — heavy showers. Messenger left. Worked at sheets all the morning. Practised song and guitar in afternoon. Henry, Miss Boyd and I were going out riding at 4 but the rain came down and stopped us. We went out in the garden. Miss Boyd took a walk with Major de Winton. Ct. Pisani dined with us in the evening. Mr Elliot, Kennedy, Levison Gower came and we made 50 bandages by bed time. Thursday 16th August. Busy morning at work. In the afternoon Princess Nazli came to see me. Henry and Miss Boyd were going to ride but it rained and they were prevented. Princess and her lady, Miss Meyrick, worked all the afternoon with us at sheets and pillows and left us after 5. We went out to the garden to play lawn tennis. Miss Boyd and I played Henry but were beaten. Made a few bandages in the evening and had music. Capts Frazer and Molloy came to tea. Mr Young came to dine and sleep. Friday 17lh August. Worked at sheets and sent off printed reports of our Ladies' Society. At 11 Dr Dickson came and at 11.30 he and Miss Boyd and I went off in the caique to Kavak to see the new quarantine hospital

1 E.P. de Longeville, drogman at the French embassy. 2

P. Schroeder, drogman at the German embassy.

3

E. Whitaker, proprietor of the Levant Herald and Eastern Express, Constantinople.

4

a paper published in

Baronness Burdett Coutts, British philanthropist who established the Turkish Compassionate Fund in aid of Turkish refugees during the war. ^ Keeper of the Purse of Queen Victoria.

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which is being arranged for the wounded and for which we had made the mattresses. It was a long pull there as it is not far from the mouth of the Black Sea. We found there E§ref Efendi 1 who had gone to inspect and he went round with us and showed us the 8 little houses each containing 4 rooms which stood on one side of the valley and the wash houses, kitchens, pharmacy on the other. We had to hurry home and did not get there till a quarter past 2 and found Nurian Efendi and a friend who sat with us while we lunched and attacked them about Kavak not being finished. Henry and Miss Boyd went out riding and came home early and we had lawn tennis. Mr Gay correspondent of Daily Telegraph dined with us also Mr Smijth. Made bandages as usual. Sent 250 sheets to Kavak. Saturday 18"* August. Worked at sheets. Miss Boyd went to Kandilli by 12.30 steamer. Lunched at 1 for Henry to go to call on Zichy being the Emperor of Austria's birthday. Mrs Sandison came about 2 to fetch away Miss Bilinsky. I went on foot to the village to call on the Vernonis 2 and found them in. Had tea in the garden and came in and practised guitar. Henry returned about 7 having seen Ahmed Vefik Pasha and consulted about what is to be done for the fugitives. He brought me a pattern of a series of women's clothes which he gets made — 2 whole suits for a lira and made by the fugitives themselves. Kennedy and Elliot dined with us. Miss Boyd and Miss Bilinsky being away made few bandages. Sunday 19th August. Had service in orangery. Mr Gobble came up for it and Mrs Henry Hanson took the harmonium. I had such a headache that I had to retire to my room for the day. Henry went to Bliyukdere to call on the Reuss and Schuylers 3 and took a row to see Kavak hospital. The Spanish minister 4 came to stay with us and with the Embassy, Capt. Frazer, the General, Major de Winton and Capt. Stopford we made 13. Made bandages as usual. Monday 20th August. Miss Boyd returned from Kandilli and brought Mrs W. Hanson with her who stopped here the night. In the afternoon we played lawn tennis. The Condouriotis dined with us and a good many people came in the evening and they danced till 12 o'clock. Tuesday 21s1 August. Mrs Willie returned home but promised to come again tomorrow to accompany us on Thursday when we are going on a trip in the Helicon. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to lunch and made a plan for us and said he would meet us there himself. 1 Member of the Ottoman Sanitary Board. A. Vernoni, dragoman of the Italian legation. E. Schuyler, US consul general in Constantinople. 4

Marques de Villamantilla.

- 52 Wednesday 22nd August. Wrote letters to go by messengers. Mrs Willie came and played lawn tennis in the afternoon. Thursday 23rd August. Got up before 7 and had tea at 7.30. Miss Bilinsky joined us and at 8 we went on board the Helicon and started for the Gulf of Izmit. We had a lovely day and went past the Princes' Islands to a place called Darica, a little village in the Gulf where we had sent the Cavass the day before to order horses and carriages. We arrived at about 10 o'clock and found on landing a lot of ponies and donkeys saddled and in place of a carriage a wooden cart drawn by oxen. In point of fact it was only 4 wooden wheels with a strong length of wood between it to which the Pasha had had added pieces to lean against and a rough kind of wooden frame covered with a blanket over head. There was just room for Miss Bilinsky, the General and me to sit in it and to carry the provisions. We had cushions to sit on but were horribly jolted over the rough roads. The views were lovely as we got to the top of the hill looking over the vineyards into the gulf. The rest of the party rode. The two ladies managed on men's saddles and there was a goodly cavalcade for we had Capt. Frazer, Capt. Wingfield, Major de Winton, Mr Graham and 2 servants. When we got to the Greek village half way up the hill we found the Greek schoolmaster had turned out to meet us and the children with green branches in their hands lined the road. They read an address in Greek which Henry did not understand. The children waved their branches and we went on. At last we came to a small clump of trees just off the road where we found the Pasha seated in the shade on his carpet with a bottle of water in his hand and a pipe. He welcomed us with his usual roar of laughter and made us sit on cushions and carpets while the lunch was unpacked by Beale1 and Petro and the Pasha's servant. There was a huge sycamore which had been struck by lightening and in the trunk of which a fire was made and a peasant woman called Ratenka cooked for us very good red mullet and warmed our pilaf. The dish of the day was a lamb roasted whole which the Pasha had ordered at the village. It came late but was excellent when it did come, carried in 2 tin round dishes on the head of 2 peasants— and it was welcomed accordingly. We bought a whole quantity of freshly gathered grapes and peaches, paying about 8 piastre kai'mes for 2 okes of grapes. Having eaten and rested and reentered the araba and the rest mounted we returned to the sea shore. The school children turned out again and Henry dismounted and visited the schoolhouse, made a donation and received a gorgeous knitted quilt. I had such a violent headache that I was glad to get back to the Helicon and to lie down in the cabin where I remained till about 7 when I went on deck again. I found we had gone a good way up the Gulf and

1 H. Beale, an English servant of the Layard.

- 53 were returning towards Constantinople. We anchored at Constantinople while we dined and 1 was better and able to be at dinner. We had a splendid moonlight night for going up the Bosphorus and stopped to leave Ahmed Vefik Pasha at Hisar. We got home at 11 o'clock: just as the eclipse of the moon was beginning but we were too sleepy to wait up and watch it and were glad to have some tea and get to bed. Friday 24th August. Mr Fawcett having been away in Rodosto sent by Henry to look after the poor refugees he came with his wife immediately after our breakfast to give an account of it and to beg for clothes for some of the women went about naked. As he brought patterns, I and Mrs Fawcett at once set to work to cut out shirts and promised to have as many as we could ready for him when he started off again on Sunday. I sent to beg Mrs Parniss to come and help cut out and we worked all day only going out to play tennis at 5 o'clock. Saturday 25"1 August. Cut out shirts all day with Mrs Fawcett and Mrs Parniss and her daughters and played tennis in the evening. Sunday 26th August. We had service in the Orangery and Dr Thomson came for it. Had both the Helicon and the Antelope crews. While we were at church the Red Cross ship arrived from Varna and Mr Young called and saw Henry; he had brought down 60 wounded whom he had deposited at Kavak Hospital. Went out in the caique with Miss Boyd, the General and Henry. Called on the Zarifis. Much talk over the news of a great victory over the Russians in Asia. Left Henry at Corti's and went to Biiyiikdere to call on Countess Radolinski. Found her in. She is an Englishwoman but very consumptive — very tall and emaciated and has been handsome with black hair and eyes. Embassy dined with us as usual. Sent off 237 shirts to Andrinople by Mr Fawcett. Monday 271*1 August. Had in 2 Greek girls from the village and made do nothing but cut out shirts downstairs while we worked above. Mrs Parniss and her daughters helped. At 5 we took our work in the garden and played also lawn tennis. The new Minister of Foreign Affairs dined with us, Server Pasha — also the d'Ehrenhofffs. In the evening dancing till 12 as usual. Tuesday 28 th August. Worked all day with Mme Parniss and Mrs Fawcett till 5 when transplanted ourselves to grove for tea and lawn tennis. Wednesday 29th August. Wrote for post and messenger. Sitting at my table I happened to look up and see a steamer pop and drew Miss Boyd's attention saying that I thought it looked like a yacht. On going to the window she said, "It is the Admiral. He is waiving to us", and sure enough it was him. Later we got a telegram from him saying he was coming up to dine and sleep here. We worked all day and at 5 took our work out to the grove and played

- 54 tennis At 6 the Admiral arrived very well and in good spirit. He had come down for order. Had chased the Emperor's yacht 27 hours and run her to Sebastopol, quite forgetting about torpedoes in his excitement, had fired one shot at Fort Constantine and a broadside had been opened on him from every side which just fell short of him but the splash covered her decks with water. At this he retreated. Thursday 30th August. Made bandages and visit from Marco Pasha, head of medical schools here. Mrs Henry and Mrs Arthur Hanson called and stayed for luncheon. Mrs Fawcett came to cut in the morning but left after lunch. I had to dress at once to go with Henry to meet the Sultan at his farm at Maslak. We started at 3. Mr Zarifi lent us his carriage and we had 2 mounted cavasses. Maslak is only about 1/2 hour drive from here on the road to Pera. On the way had met two royal guards sent out to escort us. The house at Maslak is very like a small English villa. Said Pasha met us and Henry and he smoked and we had coffee out of diamond zarjs. In about 1/4 hour the Sultan sent for us. He was in a small room on the ground floor with a sofa and a few chairs in it. He shook hands with us and made us all sit down. Henry congratulated him on the late victories and he thanked me for what I had done about the sick and wounded and then he and Henry went on to talk politics through Said Pasha as interpreter for nearly 2 hours. H.M then asked us to go and walk in the grounds where we should find the Grand Vizier. The Sultan looked worn and thin and very anxious. He said solemnly that the late victories showed that the hand of God was with the Turks in their just cause. We found the Grand Vizier Edhem Pasha and Server Pasha and Mahmud Damad Pasha in a small kiosk smoking. They came out and walked about in the grounds with us till nearly 7. The grounds are very well kept, the trees having been planted by the Sultan before he came to the throne and there are very pretty views right away to the Black Sea. There is a lovely conservatory with fountains, creepers and masses of lycopodium. About 1/4 to 7 we were called to dinner which was laid in a small kiosque leading out of the conservatory. There we found the Sultan and he motioned me to a seat on his right and put Henry on his left. I had next me the Grand Vizier who acted interpreter. Next to Henry was Server Pasha and next Server Said Bey (H.M.'s secretary) 1 , then Said Pasha, then Mahmud Damat. We had a French dinner and not a good one, the only Turkish dish being a pilaf. H.M. made conversation with me all the time, talked of England and his visit there and was very agreeable. He noticed I drank no wine and told me he did not drink any and asked me to share some pink looking sherbet with him which I did, he constantly refilling my glass himself. It got dark when we were at table but

1

Said Pasha, the future grand vizier, known as the Little (Kli^tik). See The Queen's

Ambassador.

- 55 candles were lighted as were the lamps in the conservatory. The sound of the dripping of the fountains coming through the open door was very cool and pleasant. After dinner H.M. led the way to a small room where coffee was served and he and Henry smoked, only Said Pasha accompanied as interpreter. After some time H.M. sent Said to call in the others and the Sultan told Server to talk to me as he could not do so himself. About 1/2 past 9 H.M. rose and said he had given orders to an ADC to escort us home lest I should be afraid — so we set off with 2 cavasses carrying lighted lamps and two guards in front and 4 behind us. We rattled through the village of Therapia in a way to arouse the place. Found Hobart Pasha, the General and Miss Boyd making bandages. Friday 31st August. Worked away at shirts. Dr Temple called to say he was being sent to Andrinople and then Ahmed Vefik Pasha turned up to bid us adieu before starting for Andrinople where he has been named governor. He stayed and lunched with us. Directly afterwards the Henry Hansons, Mrs Willy and Mrs Arthur arrived to go to the General's picnic which he had prepared for us at the Bends. Miss Bilinsky and Mrs Fawcett besides Mr Heathcote and Mr Wingfield and some of the Helicon officers were of the party. Capt. Stopford got orders to go down to Besika to fetch up Sir Ed. Commerall and so Mr Graham and Mr Edwards could only ride a little way with us. I drove with Mrs Arthur and Miss Bilinsky, the rest of the party rode except Wingfield, Smijth and Leweson Govver who walked. On arriving at the Bends we had tea and played a round game and then took a short walk and returned to a cold spread of shrimps, lobsters sauce etc., and then drove home. We did not get home till nearly 8 and some of the riding party only got home after 9 having lost their way in making short cuts in the dark. I had a headache and had to leave the dinner table. Hobart Pasha sailed to join his ships on the Black Sea. The Willy Hansons stayed the night. Saturday I s ' September. Worked hard. Mrs Fawcett came as usual to cut out. Marco Pasha called and Mr Young came to say he was sailing for Varna tomorrow and to ask for bandages. The Parniss came to work and we went to the grove. Mme and Mile Baltazzi 1 called and sat and worked with us. Mr Gribble came down to stay as Mr Thomson is ill and cannot do the service tomorrow. Mr Smijth and L. Gower dined. Sunday 2nd September. Mr Gribble did service. Sat in the grove after lunch. Miss Boyd went to Kandilli with Mr Elliot and de Winton. Henry, the General and I went in the 6-pair caique to Biiyiikdere, called on Princess Reuss and then went on to the Armenian Patriarch who was out and then to

' Wife and daughter of E. Baltazzi, an Ottoman Greek banker.

- 56 call on Mme Lebet, the Swiss banker's wife and found her at home. Saw there a Mr Leslie staying with them. Embassy to dine as usual. Monday 3rd September. Mrs Fawcett came and we went on to work. About 11 the Kashgar ambassador called and soon after the Helicon arrived bringing Sir Edmund Commerall and Mr Gresley, his flag lieutenant to stay with us. At 5 o'clock we went out in the garden to work, have tea and play lawn tennis. Mr Rawson, Major de Winton's brother in law, Capt. Wingfield, Mr Graham etc. came to play tennis. Countess Radolinsky called and sat some time in the grove. Capt. Stopford dined with us also Mr Kennedy. Had a good many people come in the evening and danced till 12 o'clock. Tuesday 4th September. The Hansons went away in the mouche at the same time as the Admiral and Mr Gresley who were going to town to take the steamer for Varna. Miss Boyd and I worked and made jackets all the morning. After lunch the Parniss' came to help. Mme Mongeri 1 called to tell me about her sister Mme Camara's 2 refuge at Andrinople to whom we had sent help. We went out to the grove as usual at 5 for tea and tennis. Mrs Walker 3 called on me there. Mr Elliot, Major de Winton and Mr Rawson dined. Made bandages. Mr Whitaker came and brought me a song he has composed. Wednesday 5"1 September. Cut out and worked all day till 5 when we went to the grove and had tea and lawn tennis. Wrote in the morning letters to send by messenger who left. Ct Pisani and Mr Austin dined. In the evening I, the General, the Count, Mr Elliot and Mr Austin went in the steamer launch to Biiyukdere to the Reuss'. It was a very hot night at it was very dull and there were few people there. Henry did not go. As we came home it began to blow from the Black Sea and it was not easy to land without getting wet. Very rough night. Thursday 6th September. Stormy day and rain threatened. I and Miss Boyd worked all the morning. In afternoon the Parniss' came. Mrs Arthur Hanson came to tell us about the refugees she had been to see at Beylerbeyi. Played lawn tennis although it was windy. Miss Boyd and General started to go to Mr Fawcett's lawn tennis but it rained a little and they returned. Friday 7th September. Mrs Fawcett brought Mrs and Miss Casolani 4 to call in the morning while we were working. After lunch she and Miss Casolani returned to work and Mrs and Miss Bilinsky and the Parniss. At 5 went to grove and played tennis and worked. Read for an hour before dinner. 1 Wife of Dr. L. Mongeri, an Italian in the Ottoman service.

a 4

Edith Camara, wife of the director of the local Banque Impériale Ottomane branch. M. A . Walker, sister of Canon Curtiss and a painter. Unable to identify.

- 57 Bandage making in the evening. The General, Mr Smijth and Elliot dined and Sandison. Miss Boyd and Major de Winton rode in the afternoon. Saturday 8th September. Cut out and worked as usual. Messenger came in. Miss Boyd went away to Kandilli to see cricket match and stayed the night. Beatrice Parniss came to work with me. Ct Zichy breakfasted with us and Mr Maynard lunched with us. At 4 went to play lawn tennis and played till 6.30 and went off to read in my room till dinner. The Count, Mr L. Gower and Capt. Wingfield dined besides Mr Gribble who came to stay for tomorrow's service. Today Ramadan began. Sunday 9th September. Miss Boyd returned from Kandilli in time for the service and play harmonium as usual. We went out after church to the grove and were there joined by Henry and afterwards by Admiral Commerall and Mr Gresley who had returned from Varna this morning with a Turkish admiral. They had been to the front and got there the day after a battle, had seen Mehmed Ali Pasha and Fuad Pasha 1 and gave a very cheering account of the state of things. While we were sitting talking we suddenly saw a large ship stopping close to the house and concluded it must be the Red Cross which it was and Mr Young landed. He said he wanted bandages so I rushed in and counted him up 600. He stayed to luncheon and then went to Trebizond as he is going to try to get up to Erzeroum with stores. As we had given away nearly all our bandages we felt bound to make more so Miss Boyd and I, the Admiral and Mr Gresley and Henry took rat-traps to the grove and made them there. It was very hot. Zichy called and came in a very large Lloyd steamer, the Iris which surprised us. It was the second large steamer we had stop here today. It appeared his steam launch was out of order and so he took the Iris to come up. A new Belgian minister 2 also called and Uribarri, the Spanish secretary. We made 75 bandages. Read before dinner. 16 to dinner with Corti and Maynard, Captain Stopford, De Winton and Rawson besides ourselves and Embassy. Made 80 bandages in the evening. Mr Kennett called in the evening. Monday 10th September. Made up parcels of work and clothes to take with me to the refugees at Beylerbeyi. At 12 started for Kandilli in the mouche with Miss Boyd, Capt. Stopford, Admiral Commerall, Mr Graham, Mr Edwards, Capt. Gordon. After leaving me at the yali they went to town. It was a broiling day. After resting and talking to Mrs Willie I mounted a donkey and rode up to Mrs Arthur's. There I found Dr Dickson awaiting for me and Mrs Henry. We lunched and then went back to the yali and waited for the mouche which came a little after 3. We went down to Beylerbeyi to see ' Two army commanders from the front. 2

H. Dolez.

- 58 the refugees living in the Palace and asked for a certain Cemal Bey who had the superintendence of them. He was away but they sent for him and we sat under the trees waiting for him. We said we would go and visit the hospital while we were waiting. We found the chief doctor there, a very intelligent Armenian who spoke French and he took us over it. The wounded were all quiet and contented, not a murmur, not a groan, not a word was heard, they were comfortably lodged and all was very clean. I sent them some cigarettes and then we went back to the refugees. We found Cemal Bey there and talked with him as to the best way to distribute work and clothes and the rice and coffee we had brought. He said that if we would give it over to him he would distribute it. We then went to the Palace. It was clean but full of women and children — not a stick of furniture was there and there were only the rugs and beds rolled up in corners of the rooms. There was one tiny baby slung in an apron on a kind of hammock in the corner of one room. On a mattress in another lay a sick child for whom Dr Dickson prescribed. Mrs Arthur took some sweets which she distributed to the children. It was with difficulty we could get away as the women clustered round us wanting to tell us how their husbands and brothers had been killed. They said they all came from Sistova. At last we got away at took leave of the Doctor who returned to town. We went to the yali and had a cup of tea and then Mrs Henry and I started for Therapia and arrived about 7 quite tired out. In the evening we received as usual and the dancing went on till 12 and there were a great many people. Tuesday 11th September. It was a wild wet day and we had to lend Mrs H. Hanson waterproofs to go home in. I was able to get a walk in the garden with Henry but we could not play lawn tennis. Worked indoors and in the evening made bandages. Wednesday 12th September. Messenger left. Rather a windy day. Mrs and Miss Bilinsky and the Parniss came to work in the afternoon and we were able to sit in the garden near the walnut trees to work and have tea although we could not play lawn tennis. We played Bull. In the evening Mr Kennett came to call and we made bandages. Thursday 13th September. Mrs Willie came up to luncheon. Mr Boyce 1 came up from town to talk over the arrangements of the Embassy and I walked in the garden with him and he stayed for lunch. Hill and major de Winton and I took stock of the shirts we have and found there were over 1700. At 3.30 I went in a caique to Buyiikdere to leave cards and went on board the "Sapho", Prince Colonna Sciarra's 2 yacht. Came home to play lawn tennis at 4.30. 1

Unable to identify. Probably someone with an administrative responsibility at the embassy.

2

M. Barberini Colonna di Sciarra.

- 59 Friday 14th September. Bathed. Worked. Lunched at 1.30 and at 2 went with Henry and the General to Arnavutkoy in the mouche to see the house Mr Boyce has hired for the student dragoman college. A large roomy Turkish house with a garden. Mr Boyce and Mr Guarracino met us there. There was a dance school in one of the rooms, and there were 1/2 dozen black-eyed children all sitting on their heels on a mattress with their hands crossed on their breasts. 1 administered sweets to them much to their satisfaction. Got home by 5 and played lawn tennis. Capt. Wingfield and Mr Elliot and Mr Kennett dined. At 10 we went out fishing I, Capt. Wingfield and Mr Smijth in the dingie and the General, Miss Boyd, and Mrs Elliot in the caique — caught nothing and came home at 12. We hoped to have caught lufer. Saturday 15th September. Bathed. Miss Boyd and I worked all day. In the afternoon had a long visit from Mme Muzaffer 1 who seemed to want to make herself intimate. Glad at last to get rid of her. The Parniss and Baltazzis came to work and we went to the grove to work, have tea and lawn tennis. Mrs Calvert also came. Mr and Mrs Fawcett and Col. Blunt 2 dined with us. Sunday 16th September. Dr Washburn came for the service. Heard of a great battle at Plevna and one at Breila, both Turkish victories. In the afternoon we went out in the 2nd caique, the General, Major de Winton and Miss Boyd and we went to the Helicon and fetched Capt. Stopford. We went to the Sweet Waters of Asia where we landed and toot a walk and picked heathers and hops and then returned and sat under the trees and made keif with nargileh and coffee. We then went home again. Monday 17th September. News that the Shipka pass was taken and we were in high feathers. Mr Layard said the young people should have an extra dance tonight. Played lawn tennis. The W. Hansons came to stay the night. Tuesday 18th September. News that the Russians have retaken Shipka and we were all much crestfallen. Mrs W. Hanson took Miss Boyd to play lawn tennis at the Khedive's gardens and then on to Kandilli for the night. So I played lawn tennis with Henry and the Secretary. We made bandages as usual in the evening. Thunderstorm and heavy rain. Wednesday 19th September. Woke with a bad headache but had to get up and write and see Capt. Wingfield about the trip as the storm had changed the weather. He said he thought it would be fine. I had to retire to my room about 11 and was very CD all day. However I was better in the evening and able to be down to dinner and make bandages as usual. Miss Boyd returned from Kandilli.

' Wife of Muzaffer Pasha, a converted Pole in Ottoman service. 2

Blunt Pasha, a British officer serving in the Ottoman gendarmerie.

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60

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Thursday 20th September. We breakfasted at 8.30 and started off in the steam launch and went on board the Antelope to have a day's excursion. We had Messrs Elliot and Smijth, Graham, Wingfield, de Winton, the General besides the Hansons whom we picked up at Kandilli. We went on past the Islands to a place called Yalova where there were some farms. We started at 10 from Therapia and arrived at Yalova at 2. We lunched on the deck and had a very merry party and then landed. We were told there were some ruins of a temple and we set off to walk and see them. It was very hot and sultry but we persisted but found it more than 1/2 hour's walk. We told the Antelope to follow us and pick us further down. We stopped to rest at a farm and then toiled on and found there were fragments of white marble scattered about and a portion of an early Byzantium church remaining erect. We then reembarked and had refreshing drinks and tea which revived us after our hot walk. As the evening came on we had the guitar and all sang choruses and then listened to the sailors singing. As we neared Constantinople it was like a fairy city. All the minarets were lighted up for Ramadan and the effects were wonderful. We dropped the Hansons (Mr and Mrs Henry and Mrs Willie) at Kandilli and got back to Therapia at 10. Bad news of Julian who is very ill of typhus at Shipka. Telegraphed to Frederic Layard, poor Henry's brother. Friday 21st September. Sent off 2 bales of clothing to Bazardjik and 1000 bandages to Ahmed Vefik. At 12.301 started in the mouche for Kandilli and lunched with Mrs Willie. Directly after Mrs Arthur and I started off for Stamboul. At the Sirkeci iskelesi were met by Vefik's secretary and drove to see the house taken for a hospital for the wounded and sick refugee women. Were met by Dr Dickson and Dr Lago (Vefik's doctor) but was furious at finding only one patient. The house is large, airy and confortable. Went on to the square of the mosque of Sultan Bayazid to see the kind of fair held there during Ramadan. Saw some old china with fearful prices. Major de Winton met us at the scala and we took him home. Mr Grenfell 1 (naval attaché) and Mr Elliot dined. Two American naval officers came after dinner and Mr Kennett and helped to make bandages. The heat was tremendous all day. Saturday 22nd September. Miss Boyd and I worked in the morning. Had visit from Mehmed Bey 2 to tell about refugees. Gave him money and promised clothes. Telegram from Shipka that Julian is better. At 3 went out in the small caique to leave cards at Yenikoy and at Biiyukdere. Visit from Dr Millingen and his son from Baghdad. It was very hot on the water and we were glad to get home and sit in the grove. Played lawn tennis and had tea. Old Mrs Hanson and Mr Cumberbatch came to call and sat in the grove with 1

Capt. H.T. Grenfell.

^ Unable to identify.

- 6 1

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us. Capts Wingfield, Stopford and Grenfell and Drummond came to tennis. At 6 Miss Boyd went away to Kandilli to stay the night with Miss Willie Hanson. Mr Gay came to dine and sleep. The General dined out. Mr Smijth, Kennedy and Elliot dined. Made bandages as usual. Sunday 23td September. An excessively hot day. Miss Boyd returned for the service and played the harmonium. Dr Long of the Robert College came to do the service. Packed bales with Major de Winton to send off things to Mr Kennett who telegraphed that Dr Neylan was in want of bandages etc. Also packed bales to send to Col. Synge1 at Shumla for sick and wounded to send by the Rapid which leaves tomorrow. At 3 went out in the 2nd caique with Henry, Miss Boyd and the General. We went to Kandilli to take Mrs Hanson and to send Mr Kennett some things and then went to Qubuklu to take coffee and nargileh. We had to rouse up the inhabitants as being Ramadan all was shut up and the people asleep. It was so oppressive that we expected a storm. Mr Christich, Capt. Stopford, and all the Embassy dined besides the naval attaché Capt. Grenfell. Made bandages. Bad news of Julian. Monday 24tb September. Dr Sarell, Mr Kennett and Mrs A. Hanson came and we went at 11 in the steam launch to visit the Kavak hospital where there are 250 sick and wounded. All seemed very confortable and tolerably clean; went into every house and into the washhouses, kitchens and deposited at the hospital the bandages sent by the Queen. Came back to luncheon and found Mrs W. Hanson had arrived 10 minutes too late to go with us. They all stayed to luncheon. At 4 we went out to the grove to work and play lawn tennis. Henry went in steam launch to see Server Pasha the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The Parniss came to work and a lot of the men to play tennis. While I was making tea Mr Kennedy came up and said he thought we had better put off our party tonight as the news of Julian were very bad and then told me he had died this morning and the telegram had just arrived. We sent to put off people and Mr Kennedy went off to meet Henry and to put off Kamil Bey and those who were coming to dine. Princess Reuss called and sat some time till the Prince came to fetch her and they left together. Then the Henry Hansons arrived to dine and sleep and they wanted to return home but I would not let them as it was very late and the General and they dined. We made bandages after dinner and Mr Leveson Gower came and brought Mr Walpole2 who had just returned from Shipka and had seen Julian and told me a good deal about his illness but said that when he left his illness was not supposed to be fatal.

1 British military observer at the front. 2

Probably an Englisman involved in relief work.

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6 2

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Tuesday 25th September. Worked all day. The Parniss came. Worked in the grove and walked in the garden with Henry. Visit from Mme d'Ehrenhoff. Wednesday 26lh September. Got up early and wrote till breakfast and then wrote till luncheon letters to send by the messenger. The weather had changed last evening and today it poured hard all day so that there was no going out. Walked up and down the corridor with Henry for exercise. Miss Boyd made 100 bandages. Practised the guitar with Miss Boyd before dinner. Henry came and sat with us in my boudoir. Mme and Mile Zarifi called. Ct Pisani and Mr L. Gower dined and after dinner we made 127 bandages, about 40 of which were prepared by the servants for us. Thursday 27th September. Worked hard with Miss Boyd to send off things to Mr Kennett and we made 94 bandages — 19 bolsters and 2 sheets in the morning. Dr Dickson and Major de Winton came to luncheon to talk over the relief of the 7000 fugitives near Scutari. The Parniss came to work in the afternoon. Miss Boyd went out walking with Major de Winton. I took a turn with Henry in the garden before tea and the returned to work. Wrote to Mr Brown and practised a song till dinner. Made 101 bandages after dinner. Mr Smijth, Sandison, Capt. Grenfell and Major de Winton dined with us. Friday 28 ,i and Saturday 29 th September. |No entries]. Sunday 30111 September. Had service in the house and Miss Boyd played the harmonium. Monday l s l and Tuesday 2 nd October. [No entries]. Wednesday 3"* October. Wrote hard all the morning to send letters by the messenger. At 3 o'clock we went on board the Helicon, Henry and I, Miss Boyd and Mr Kennedy and the General and started for Besika Bay. We stopped at Constantinople to take provisions. Had a very fine passage. Thursday 4th October. Arrived at Besika about 9 in the morning. Prince Louis de Battenberg came off as officer of the watch to call on us. Henry went off to call on the Duke of Edinburgh on board the Sultan and as he left the Duke fired the salute of 19 guns. The Admirals Hornby and Commerall both came to call and all the captains of the ships and Henry returned the Admirals' calls at once. At one we went ashore in our riding costumes taking our saddles with us and got on poneys provided for us. I had a nice stout white poney who carried me well, the two admirals and their 2 flag lieutenants Gresley and Winslow came with us and all our party. We rode to Troy. It was a charming ride over a kind of moor land covered with stunted shrubs of a kind of Juniper and every now and then some fine oaks. We had to go through a marsh and 2 villages. The dogs kept picking up land tortoises which they carried a short way and then had to drop. We got at last to a very

- 63 stony place and came to a spring coming up through the rock. There we found 2 sailors had spread our lunch under a tree. They had caught a young pelican which caused us much amusement by flapping its great beak at all that went too near. After lunch we remounted and rode on to the top of the mound which is supposed to be the site of the citadel of Troy. It is a lovely spot. Looking down one side there is almost a sheer fall to the plain below through which meanders the river — on the other the descent is less rapid but the river winds round and is seen then. On the other side there is a splendid view over the country to the sea and one can distinguish the islands beyond. As we rode to Besika there was a most gorgeous sun set such as I had never seen. Looking inland there was a mist over the plain which was a delicate rose colour but to sea the sky was a deep bright orange, the distant islands deep purple and these colours were softened and blended in the foreground and in these the great ships of the fleet rode as great phantoms. As it got dark these colours gradually paled and softened and died away. We did not get back till the sun was quite set and had only just time to get on board the Helicon, dress and go off to dine with Admiral Hornby on board the Alexandra. Met the Duke of Edinburgh at dinner and he took me in to dinner. It was rather dull and formal. After dinner they all smoked and then we returned on board and went to bed. Friday 5th October. Went to visit the Alexandra and see a fish torpedo fired. We started off to go on shore at 12. Mounted our poneys and went to Schliemann's Troy. It was about 1/2 hour's ride. We lunched there and were met by Mr Calvert who showed us the excavations. They were most disappointing. The only fine things being some pieces of massive marble fluted columns. There was one high rudely built wall uncovered and portion of a stone house which Schliemann dignifies by the name of Priam's Palace, to me it was more like a hovel. There was a curious remains of an old gate way which would lead straight through the Palace, thereby proving the building was more modern or of a later date. Mr Calvert showed us the place where the gold treasure was found. It was quite away from the palace and any trace of building. Altogether the site was interesting but the whole thing was on so small a scale and the position so low in comparison that one could not recognize Homer's Troy, although the stream meandered a few feet below the mound. We were rather late getting back to Besika and I was so tired I could not go out of a foot's pace. Returned on board, had some tea and rested and then dined at 8 on board the Agincourt with Sir Edmund Commerall. The Duke was not there as he left with his ship for Malta this morning to go to Marseilles and join the Duchess.

- 6 4 Saturday 6th October. Mr Winslow and Sir E. Commerall came to fetch me and Miss Boyd and Capt. Stopford to go on shore and play lawn tennis. Mr Kennedy got leave to go to Athens with Capt. Grabble of the Devastation and we saw them go off about 10. We could not play tennis very well on account of the wind so went on further to watch a cricket match which was going on between 2 of the ships and there the rain drove us on board. At 3 o'clock we weighed anchor and the Helicon started for Constantinople. Very sorry to leave Besika but glad to have seen such a sight as the 14 fine men of war lying at anchor. The General who while we were at Besika had stayed on board the Alexandra returned to us and we all returned as we came minus Kennedy. We had it very smooth till we passed the Dardanelles when just at the end of dinner we began to dance and I got quickly on to the deck cabin. It got worse and worse and I soon got to bed and we had a very rough night and had to slacken speed. Sunday 7th October. We continued to toss so that I thought it more prudent to remain in my berth reading which I did till after 12 when we anchored in the Golden Horn. We should have arrived before 8 in the morning had the weather been fine but we had had a rough night and one of our boats had been carried away. We got up to Therapia about 2 and it was blowing so it was not easy to land. We were glad to get to the fireside and there remain for the rest of the day. Mme Parniss called. Had Mr Jenkins, M.P. to dinner and his wife. Monday 8 th October. Weather still bad so stayed at home and worked and played a game of Badminton in the afternoon. Mr Gorst arrived to dine and sleep. Tuesday 9th October. No going out: played Badminton. Dr Leslie came down to dine and sleep. Wednesday 10th October. While I was dressing I watched a ship coming down from the Black Sea which I fancied must be the Red Cross ship and so it turned out. Mr Young and Dr Hope landed while we were at breakfast and Dr Leslie went down to town with them after having had a talk with them telling me all about poor Julian's illness. Miss Boyd went down to town. I stayed at home and worked with the Parniss who came and at sunset I went fishing with Mr Smijth and the General brought Miss Boyd to us when she came from town. We had not very good sport. Thursday 11th October. Cut out for refugees all day. Gave over to Major de Winton a lot of clothes to be stored at a Khan taken for the purpose in town. It was still bad weather and I could only take a turn in the garden with Henry. Miss Boyd rode.

- 65 Friday 12lh October. Cut out all day and in the evening I went fishing. Miss Boyd went away to stay at Kandilli. Mr Christich dined with us and we made bandages. Saturday 13lh October. The Parniss came to work. Walked in the garden with Henry Sunday 14th October. We had no service today. Dr Dickson came to lunch and also Baron Mundy 1 who impressed me as being a huge humbug and a vulgar man. In the afternoon Henry, the General and I went in the 6oared caique. I called at Petala's on Mrs Jenkins and we took Mr Jenkins with us. Went to Buyiikdere and called on Princess Reuss and found her in. Took a short ride and then returned home. Miss Boyd did not return from Kandilli as we expected. Prince Sciarra Colonna and Corti dined with us, besides the Embassy. Monday 15th October. Henry went to town in the mouche. Miss Boyd and Mrs W. Hanson arrived about 11, the latter stayed to luncheon. We cut out work and worked for refugees. Mr Edwards 2 and Mr Golding 3 2 M.P.s come down to dine and sleep here. Mr E. is member for Weymouth, a rich consequential vulgar man. We made bandages after dinner and they helped. Tuesday 16th October. Henry was going to send down the M.P.s in the steam launch but by some mistake it did not come at the time ordered so they went away in the steamer. The Helicon arrived bringing back Mr Kennedy, Admiral Hornby and Mr Winslow. It was very cold and wet and I had a headache and had to lie down in the afternoon while the others played Badminton and only got up again for dinner. Wednesday 17th October. Wrote hard all day till lunch for messenger. In the afternoon the Parniss came to work. At sunset I went fishing with Mr Parniss and we caught 15 fish in all. News from Asia that the Turks have been badly beaten. Thursday IS* October. We breakfasted at 8 and went to town in the Antelope. Henry got out at Be§ikta§ and took the Admiral, Mr Golding, and Mr Edwards to present them to the Sultan. We went on to town. I went to the Khan where the clothes are stored and then on to Hanson's bank where we had a committee of the Hansons' and their wives and Drs Millingen and Dickson. Went back to the Khan to lunch provided by Major the Winton and then returned home in the steam launch by 5 when I dressed and went out fishing with Mr Parniss but it got rough and we could not stay out long. M. de Moiiy dined with us. Corti et Sciarra came in the evening. ' Baron J. Mundy, an Austrian philanthropist. 2

Sir H. Edwards. F.G. Golding, member for New Brampton.

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Friday 19th October. Poured all day. Cut out. Played Badminton. Saturday 20th October, cut out and worked. Parniss came to work. Capt. Stopford came over and over the black boy Jerry alias "James Vulture" to us with his papers and money (£2.16). He had been taken from a slave dhow by H.M.S. Vulture 2 years ago and Capt. Stopford was anxious to get him a home so I said I would take him. His age is uncertain so the Captain made him 9 last New Year's day. He is a native of Madagascar. Mr Goldney came to stay. Sunday 21s' October. We had service in the corridor. It was a wet cold day. and I did not got out till 5 when we went to tea on the Helicon. We had a large dinner table being 16 or 17 with all the Embassy. Monday 22nd October. Admiral Hornby and Mr Winslow left us and went away in the Helicon which leaves today for good. Miss Boyd went up to town with them. I walked in the garden with Henry. Tuesday 23rd October. The Red Cross ship arrived from the Black Sea bringing Capt. Molloy and Frazer. I was out in the garden attending to the arrangement of the pine under the rock. It was fine and warm and I sat out in the garden with Jerry making charpies. After lunch I walked to the village with the General to call on Mme Mavromati 1 and then returned to find the Willie Hansons arrived to dine and sleep. We played lawn tennis. Hobart Pasha arrived from the Black Sea and came to dinner and sleep. Great talk with the Hansons about H. Guarracino having tried to destroy himself at their house on Saturday night, the shot having happily only gone trough his cheek. Made bandages. Mrs Hanson worked at the sewing machine in the evening. Wednesday 24th October. Wrote all the morning for the messenger. Hobart Pasha left for town. Miss Boyd went with Mrs Willie to Kandilli. I had a bad headache and had to lie down till dinner time. Thursday 25th October. It still continued fine and warm. Miss Boyd returned from Kandilli and we played tennis and then at 5 I went fishing with Mr Elliot and Mr Smijth and we did not return till the others had just finished dinner so we dined after. Hobart Pasha was back from London and slept there. Friday 26th October. Cut out all the morning. Fine day. Mrs Henry Hanson and M. and Mme d'Ehrenhoff and Major de Winton came to lunch. Henry went out to the Porte in the morning. We played lawn tennis a little. The Flamingo arrived and anchored at Beykoz at the Helicon's old place. Capt. Grubble of the Devastation came up to stay with us. I took him out fishing when I went with Mr Parniss. We returned to dinner not having caught many. Made 100 flannel bandages in the evening. 1 Possibly the wife of E. Mavromati the Greek consul general.

- 67 Saturday 27"' October. Cut out all morning. The Parniss came to work in the afternoon. Fine weather. Mme Mavrocordato and Mr Whitaker called. Got out at last to play lawn tennis. Went out fishing at sunset with Mr Parniss and Capt. Grabble but the current was too strong and we came home early. Made bandages. Sunday 28th October. We had no service. Weather quite changed. The Embassy dined and Hobart Pasha who was still here. The Barings dined and Mrs Baring was very rude to me and then bounced away early while we were making bandages. Monday 29th October. Had such a bad headache that I could not get up all day till quite late when I got on the sofa a bit. Expected the Persian minister's wife but seeing the pouring rain thought she could not come. She did come and Miss Boyd had to receive her. Tuesday 30111 October. Was up but not very well and could not do much. Mrs Willie came to luncheon and she and Miss Boyd played Badminton in the corridor. Mme Parniss came to call. Henry went to town in the morning to see the Sultan. Wednesday 31st October. Started at 2 o'clock for town in the steamer launch with Miss Boyd and Capt. Grabble to see them off by the French mail. Messrs Elliot, Kennedy, the General and Messenger Woodford went also and we had a heap of sheets and things we were taking to the stores. We called for Mrs Willie and Mrs Arthur Hanson in passing. After settling Miss Boyd on board we took leave of her and went on to the Khan to leave our sheets and to settle some business with Mr Horace Guarracino and then started home taking Mr and Mrs Willie and Mrs Arthur to Kandilli. We got home about 7 and rather tired. Thursday 1st November. Henry was going to the Porte in the launch but it did not arrive in time having been somehow forgotten so he started in a carriage and returned in the launch. I was alone all day except at lunch when the General came. It was not fine enough to go out. About 5, Prince and Princess Reuss called and Henry just returned as they were leaving. Pisani and Kennedy dined and in the evening Capts Fife and Grenfell came and helped to make bandages. Friday 2nd November. It blew hard and rained in torrent. Henry and I breakfasted alone for the first time for weeks. It cleared enough for us to take a turn in the garden after breakfast and again after lunch. Visit from Mr Fernandez 1 . Kennedy, Elliot and Smijth dined with us and we made bandages.

' M. Fernandez, a leading member of the local Jewish community.

-

68

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Saturday 3rd November. We had a dreadful night and in the morning the rain was driving into the house in every direction. At ] 1 Major de Winton and Messenger Hare arrived in the steam launch having arrived by French mail and could not land here but had to go to Petala's and come up in a carriage. We sat by the fire all day. Played Badminton in the afternoon. We asked all the gentlemen in the chancery to dine as they could hardly have gotten to Petala's to dine and the General never came to dinner either, so we had the Count, Elliot, Smijth, Sandison, Kennedy etc. Sunday 4th November. The wind was rather abated but no getting out for the rain. Sat indoors and made cigarettes and charpies all day. Once there was a gleam of sunshine and a promise of fairer weather but is soon clouded over again and rained as hard as ever. Hobart Pasha came up to luncheon in the Esadiye on his way to his command in the Black Sea. He dined and slept here. Mr Hare, Capts Wingfield and Fife, Elliot, Smijth, Kennedy, Pisani, Sandison and the General made up our party. Monday 5th November. Poured as usual. Did not see Hobart Pasha who went off on board at 7 but the Esadiye could not go off he wrote me word later because the state of the Black Sea was dreadful after the late storms. Henry went to town in the launch, Mr de Winton and I cut 18 jackets before lunch, after lunch it became a little fairer and Mrs Baring came to talk over her conduct on Sunday and made a kind of explanation as it was. Mme Fernandez also came to call to offer to help me with my work for the fugitives. It was very cold and we did not go out. Henry came home about 5. Heard Jerry read and then he talked of Madagascar. He said his mother's name was Hal-lela, his own Hakim but that he did not like to tell this to any one, but he has nearly forgotten his old language. Major Champaign 1 and Mr Kennedy dined with us and made new bandages. Bad news from Asia: Erzeroum taken by the Russians or nearly so. Tuesday 6th November. Cut out in the morning. At 2 B. Parniss came to take us out fishing but it was raining and we had to wait till it cleared up. Henry rode to Biiyukdere. We fished in Therapia Bay and when it came on to drizzle hard we took refuge on board the Antelope and Capt. Wingfield gave us tea. We only caught two small liifer so we came home early, landed at Petala's and walked from there. Wednesday 7 lh November. Wrote for the messenger and post. Cut out clothes. The Parniss came in the afternoon to help for the last time as they return to town tomorrow. Showery all day but got a turn in the garden. Thursday 8lh November. Went off to town in the steam launch directly after breakfast with Henry, Mr de Winton and the General. Went to the 1

Unable to identify. Probably one of the British military observers on the front.

- 69 Embassy and went over the house with Mr Thompson while Henry went to the Austrian Embassy. He joined me after and Mr Kennedy and Elliot also came. Mr H. Hanson called. We lunched "en piquenique" and then I went over the house again with Henry and settled which rooms were to be got ready for us and after went to call on Mme Dolez 1 who was not at home. We then picked up the General and Mr de Winton and drove back to Dolmabah§e and started off in the launch about 3.30 taking Mr Elliot with us. Got home about 5 having called at Kandilli on our way to invite Mrs Willie to come with us which she could not do. Capt. Musgrave 2 dined with us. When we got home it rained. Friday 9 th November. Took a turn in the garden with Henry. Cut out. The Hanson came. Mrs Henry and Mrs Willie to lunch and helped to cut out. They left about 3 and we went out to play lawn tennis, Mr Kennedy and 1 against Henry and Mr L. Gower. Mme Mavromati and her daughter, Miss Sarell and Mile Baltazzi called and came to the tennis ground. Went in at 4.30, had tea and worked till dinner time. Mr Kennedy and Lewison Gower and Capt. Fife dined. Made no bandages. First fine day for some days. Saturday 10th November. Fine morning. Took a turn in garden. Worked. Kashgar Ambassador and Capt. Molloy came to visit Henry, the latter lunched with us, the former is keeping a Ramadan as a sign of mourning for his uncle the Emir. We intended going out fishing but it came on to pour and it rained hard all the afternoon. The General and Col. Baker's brother 3 dined with us also Mr Sandison and Kennedy. Made bandages. Rather better news from Asia: Erzeroum not taken and all inhabitants defending it even women and children. Sunday ll111 November. Fine morning. Pasted in scrap book. Visits from Dr Millingen and Mehmed Bey. Lunched at 1.30. At 2 went off in the 2nd caique with Mr de Winton, Henry, the General and Mr Smijth to Candili. Landed at Mrs Willie's and went up the hill stopping at Mrs Arthur's to fetch her. Then I called on Mrs Clifton who was out and on to Mrs C. Hanson who was in and then went on to the Henry Hanson and picked up Mrs Henry and we went on to the top of the hill where there was a burnt kiosque burnt by the Germans at the time of the Crimean war by mistake. Then we went down to the caique through the village, a dreadfully steep and stony path. When we got home it was quite dark. Had tea and rested till dinner. Capt. Wingfield, Hall, Fife, Molloy and all the Embassy except Sandison and Kennedy who

' Wife of the Belgian minister. 2

Commander of one of the ships of the fleet.

3

Samuel Baker Pasha.

- 70 were gone out shooting dined with us. Made sharpie and Mme Austin came in after dinner. Monday 12th November. Directly after breakfast Mr de Winton, the General, Henry and I went in the steam launch. Henry left us at the Khan where I transacted business with Mr Guarracino and Mr Wrench and we had some lunch there. As we came away about 1/4 to 2 our coaxwain overbalanced and fell into the water but was soon fished out again. We went to Princess Nazli's to call on her but found her in her carriage and just going out. She insisted on returning but I only stayed a few minutes with her and then walked up and down her house waiting for Henry who was at Server Pasha's next door. We took Mrs Willie home and then went home ourselves. Tuesday 13th November. Worked for refugees. Went out driving at 2.30. Mrs A. Hanson arrived just as we were starting so I took her with us. We drove to Biiyiikdere to call on Princess Reuss who was however out. Mrs Hanson took Mrs de Winton down to Kandilli for the night. I went to play lawn tennis. The Count, Mr Sandison, Kennedy and Lewison Gower dined with us. Sent up a lot of things to the Khan. Wednesday 14th November. Wrote had all the morning for the messenger. After luncheon visit from Mme Issaverdens, Prince and Princess Reuss, Col. Baker and a young Mavrocordato. They stayed sometime and Mme Baltazzi came to help to work for the wounded. I took her and Col. Baker out with me as I wanted to go and play tennis and it was getting late. Came in and worked till dinner. Mr Waring ex M P . and Mr J. Bowles, editor of Vanity Fair came to dine and sleep. We made bandages in the evening. Little J.B. was very active and important. Thursday 15th November. Henry went off in the Antelope to Scutari to bury poor Julian Layard. His remains had been brought down by Mr Masters from Kesanlik and arrived by last night's train. Henry took with him the secretaries. He left directly after breakfast and got there about 11; chose a spot for the grave near the Crimean officers and the grave was prepared and the funeral took place about 3. Mr Gribble offered up a prayer. They returned home about 5 . 1 and Mrs de Winton took a walk in the village to call on Mrs Morris Fawcett whom I did not see and then walked in my garden. Practised the piano and sang in the evening. Friday 16th November. Directly after breakfast Henry and I started off in the steam launch; called for Mrs W. Hanson at Kandilli and went on to Beyler Bey when we found a carriage waiting to take us to Camlica to see the Hospital and soup kitchen for the refugees we have established. Found about 53 inmates. Were met by Dr and Dr Charles Millingen and we went all over the hospital, the matron's daughter had to be interpreter. They were

- 71 Armenians but the daughter had been brought up in an American school. We went into the men's ward where we found about 9. One man on our departure called out in bad Greek "no tobacco", so we sent out for some to give them. We left Mrs W. H. at her house and hurried home to Therapia to luncheon getting there about 2.30. Mrs de Winton and 1 played tennis with Henry. Col. Baker (Baker Pasha's brother) dined with us. Saturday 17th November. Henry went out. It was a fine day. Mrs de Winton and I went out fishing in the caique and only caught 1 fish. Sunday 18"1 November. Mr Jocelyn arrived and the messenger. Mr Jocelyn stayed with us. Made charpie in the evening. Went for a walk in the afternoon. The de Wintons, Henry and I, the General and Mr Jocelyn walked to Biiyukdere valley and back. The Reuss, Waring, Capt. Burnaby 1 and Embassy dined with us. On our walk we met a gentleman with a splendid wild boar which he had shot in the forest of Belgrade, on a poney and Mr Sandison and Mr Elliot said they had shot 2 more today. Made charpie in the evening. Major de Winton returned from Sofia. Monday 19th November. I went out fishing with Mr Parniss at 7.30 in the morning. A lovely warm day but bad sport. Only caught 5 gurnet. At 11 went down to town with Henry in the launch. Left him at Server Pasha and went to the Khan to transact business. Henry fetched me away about 2 . 1 had Mr Bartlett of the Constance to meet me and some of the Hansons and did a lot of work. Was tired and glad to get a little tea when we went to call on Mr Lovett on board the Constance. It was a most lovely day and as we took Mr Bartlett home with us he saw the Bosphorus at its best. Got home at 5 just at dusk. Mr Bartlett dined and slept. Sang in the evening. Tuesday 20th November. Mr Bartlett left. A lovely day. Cut out all the morning garments. Lunched at 1.30. Turhan Bey, the new Turkish minister at Rome lunched with us. He is only 30 and already Minister. He is tall, dark, agreeable with a somewhat Jewish nose. 2 English ladies came from Bebek to ask me to help their Dorcas society. Played lawn tennis. Wednesday 21st November. Wrote hard for the mail and messenger. It was so fine and warm that after playing lawn tennis we had tea in the garden. I then walked to the village to call on Mme Baltazzi who was not able to see me and Mme Calliadi 2 who was in. We were quite sad to think our summer lawn tennis season was over. In the evening we stuffed splint pads. Thursday 22nd November. Packed and sent everything off to town by the steam launch which started at 11. Took a walk in the garden with Henry; it was a lovely fine day and we were sorry to leave the country. At 1 the ' Capt. Fr. Burnaby, the author of A ride to Khiva. 2

Wife of Cailliadi Bey, an Ottoman Greek official.

- 1 2 -

Antelope arrived and we embarked. As we were going off I saw a swordfish jump out of the water three times. There are many in the Bosphorus but it was the first time I had seen one. We lunched on board and got to Dolmabah9e at about 3 where the carriage met us. Drove to the Embassy. Began to unpack and settle down in my boudoir which is next to my bedroom. Dr. Dickson and Bice Parniss called. We dined alone. In the evening Turhan Bey came to call on Henry and I went up and sat in my boudoir. Sir Collingwood did not come to Pera today. He is to follow tomorrow. The de Wintons went to the Hotel Royal. Friday 23rd November. Unpacked and settled down, directly after lunch I drove down to the Khan to meet Mr Bartlett and Major de Winton and transact business. Mrs W. Hanson came to call and stayed lunch so I took her down to the Khan with me in the carriage and Mrs Arthur whom 1 met at our door as we went out. I did not return home till dark. We dined alone. In the evening Major de Winton came to do business with Henry and Mrs de Winton came and sat with me and I sang to her all the evening. Mr Grubble also came in and sat some time chatting. Saturday 24rd November. Arranged the drawing rooms. It was a dull rainy and I had a headache. Mrs de Winton came over to help and work. As soon as she left I laid down and had to go to bed instead of going down to dinner. Sunday 25th November. Henry and I went to church in the morning. In the afternoon we walked in the garden till Ct Corti came to see Henry when I left them and came in. The Reuss, Zichy, Mme d'Ehrenhoff and Mr Bowles came to call. The de Wintons and all the Embassy dined with us besides Mr Lowett and Mr Bartlett. Monday 26th November. Went about the house seeing to things. Capt. Wells of the Agincourt called. The messenger arrived. Mme Parniss called. At 3 went out driving in open carriage with Henry. We drove to the Sweet Waters. My turquoise ring present from the ex king of Oude of Baghdad arrived. Mr Wrench called and Capts. Fife and Molloy. The de Wintons moved here from the hotel to rooms we gave them. They dined with us. A few people in the evening. Tuesday 27,h November. Mrs W. Hanson arrived to lunch and to see to Ladies Association's affairs. Mrs de Winton came in to help me to cut out soldiers' jackets. Mrs de W. also lunched with us, and Mr Jocelyn. 1 went out driving to pay some visits. It drizzled so after paying a visit to the Khan I returned home. Capt. Wells, the Count, the General, Mr Smijth dined with us. We made flannel bandages in the billiard room.

-73

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Wednesday 28th November. Wrote for messenger all the morning. Mr and Mrs Parniss came to settle about work. After lunch Mrs de Winton and I went to Mrs Gribble on foot to the sewing class of the Ladies' Association. Tea and cakes were handed and Miss Hatty read aloud. There were 10 or 12 there. At 4 the carriage fetched me and I went to call on Mme Fernandez who was in and then came home as it was cold. Dr Dickson called. The de Wintons, Mr Jocelyn, Mr Kennedy and Lewison Gower dined with us. We played billiards after dinner till bedtime. Thursday 29th November. Spent morning in cutting out. Mr Kennett called to ask me to make some hospital things. When 1 was dressed Hill said, "I wonder where Dilly is. She got out on the sill when I put Coco's cage out". I looked out and said, "She is not there, she must have got in at some window". A few minutes after someone came from the Hotel Royal saying they had seen her tumble out of the window. When Hill went down she found her with a broken leg. James the coachman took her to the stables and set it. I went out driving and found Mrs Scudamore in and then Mme Dolez whom I had not yet seen. She is young, fair and pleasant. Friday 30th November. Mrs Hanson came up to luncheon with her little Carlo. 1 drove her down to the Khan in the afternoon. Dr Dickson dined. Saturday l s l December. Dr Neylan called to ask for hospital things. Mrs Millingen came about Dorcas Society. After luncheon I drove out with Henry. We called on the Condouriotis and found them in. I went on to call on Mme Hilmi Pasha. She is Kâmil Bey's daughter, speaks French, says she lives "à l'européenne" with her husband and children, dining all together and being served by a man. There were no jalousies at the windows only a lot of plants to make a screen M. d'Ehrenhoff and M. Christich called and I gave them tea. Christich in a baking at the rumours the Serbians have crossed the frontiers. The de Wintons dined and the General. Went early to bed. There was a tremendous storm about 5 o'clock and the hailstones were about the size of peas. It lasted only a short time. Sunday 2™1 December. I stayed in bed till lunch time being very tired. In the afternoon I walked in the garden with Henry where we were joined by Mehmed Bey who came to talk of his friend Ahmed Vefik's return from Andrinople — having resigned his post of Vali. The General, Mr Jocelyn, Mr Smijth, Mr Sandison, Leveson Gower, Kennedy, the Count, Mr Gay dined — the de Wintons came in after dinner. Monday 3rd December. Went to Stamboul with Mrs de Winton at 12 and met at the Refugee Hospital Mme Hilmi Pasha, Drs Dickson and Lago, Messr Bartlett, Gay and Guarracino. Found 23 patients and heard very sad stories, one poor woman had escaped with some neighbours from some place

- 74 which had been taken by the Russians and did not know the fate of any of her relatives. One had seen her child murdered before her own eyes and had got hurt in getting away from the flaming house. She had come here with 2 children and being so ill had been taken to our hospital and now she wanted to find her children who are somewhere in the town, she knows not where. We distributed cigarettes and came home to luncheon. Did not go out again. Worked and arranged the drawing room with Mrs de Winton. Had dinner party for the Dolez besides them the d'Ehrenhoffs, Charles Waring, M. Christich, Mr Bowles, General Klapka, the General, Mr Elliot and M. de Moiiy dined. A good many people came in the evening. Tuesday 4th December. Mrs de Winton and I cut garments. Mrs W. Hanson came to luncheon. Afterwards I drove her to the Khan and I spent the afternoon there arranging things with Mr Bartlett. Brought Mrs de Winton home. After tea looked over glass and furniture with Mr Elliot. He and Capt. Hamond (Torch), Mr Smijth dined. I found that Capt. Hamond was Tony Hamond's brother and is very like him. We made bandages and played billiards after dinner. Mr Henry Hanson came from the Grand Vizier to tell Henry that there was news that Fuad Pasha had taken Elena with 9 guns and 5000 prisoners. Wednesday 5th December. Last night's news is confirmed and Suleyman Pasha is supposed to be marching on Tirnovo. The Turks have taken 9 guns and 500 prisoners but are waiting for reinforcement before going on to Tirnovo. Wrote for the messenger and mail. After lunch Henry and I went out riding to Okmeydani the place outside the city where the Sultans used to practise bow and arrow shooting. The plain is covered with marble and stone pillars having inscriptions to mark any especially long shot. We came down by Piyale Pasha, a very picturesque old mosque in a valley. The sentry civilly opened the gate and allowed us to ride into the yard of the mosque which is most picturesque. We came home through the most wonderful narrow streets and came out at the Arsenal and up home through the Petits-Champs. Zichy and Kallerdji called. Gave them tea. Mrs de Winton, L. Gower and the Count dined with us. J. Bowles came in the evening. Thursday 6th December. At 12 Henry and I drove to Yildiz kiosque to pay a visit to the Sultan. We were met by Kamil Bey who took us straight into the Sultan's room where was Said Pasha who interpreted until the Grand Vizir was called in and Henry and the Sultan had some private talk. After a time H.M. asked me to accompany him to the Harem to pay a visit to his Sultana apologizing for leaving Henry alone. We set out on foot, I, the Sultan, Said and Kamil to walk across the garden to the Harem a few steps off. At the gate

-75 of it Said and Kamil stopped and we were met by 2 men one of whom was black. We went through a long kind of hall till we came at the end of it to a staircase where stood a young slave girl and the Sultan said in French, "la dame d'honneur". She made bows and led us up and halfway up stood a little fair woman dressed in pink damasck and a purple velvet jacket and the Sultan said, "ma mère", at the top stood the Sultana and H.M. said, "Madame la Princesse". She shook hands and then the Sultan and I walked into a large kind of hall like the one below. There were chairs and divans all round and the Sultan placed me on a divan and took a chair next me and the mother sat opposite and the Sultana after much pressing sat next the Sultan, the slave standing opposite me. After stopping a few minutes H.M. left us and the little slave talked incessantly interpreting for the mother and making her own remarks besides. She said once, "You see the Sultana sits still without speaking a word", as much as to say, "What a fool". The Sultana is dark with a fair complexion and wore a blue diamond loose gown. She is now near her confinement. She had her head tied up in a kind of silk handkerchief and wore a large diamond locket with big stones. The Mother (H.M.'s step mother) wore pined on a violet silk on her forehead a large diamond ornament with cabochon emerald drops. Presently in came a tall dark woman rather middle aged and she sat down a long way off at which my friend said, "Qa on appelle la seconde Khadine". Soon after the Sultan returned and sat and talked and made the slave sit down which she did placing a chair respectfully in the distance. I told her I had brought a fine Shetland shawl in an English oak box for the Sultana from Baroness Burdett Coutts as a specimen of English work. According to etiquette they merely thanked me but betrayed no curiosity to see the present. At last the Sultan rose and the little slave said, "Vous voyez il s'ennuie ici". I took the hint and took leave. On returning to the selamlik the Sultan showed me his aviary and said he would give me some birds if I would go and choose them one day next week. I said I would wait his orders any day he chose to send for me. Henry and the Grand Vizier made their reappearance and began talking again to the Sultan so he asked Said and Kàmil to show me over the upper floor which they did. There is a fine hall with deep recesses and divans and small rooms leading out of them. There were some fine old Chinese vases and some handsome Broussa silk furniture but otherwise the house seemed empty. On returning to the Sultan's room we took leave of him and went home to luncheon. After lunch we played lawn tennis. Friday 7 th December. I had a headache and laid on the sofa in the boudoir all day. The Parniss' came to see me. Saturday 8"1 December. It was a pouring wet day so after lunch we proposed playing badminton and then that we should play tennis in the

- 76 courtyard so Henry and 1 went with Mr Kennedy and Mr Baring and put up the nets over the windows and had a short game. I found it more difficult than lawn tennis as one has to take the ball sometime in the rebound from the wall. We dined at Ct Zichy's, met the Dolez, Barings and d'Ehrenhoffs besides a good many of our Embassy. Sunday 9"1 December. Had breakfast late hoping the mail bringing Arthur would be in. Just as we finished he arrived so I did not go to church but sat talking with him. It poured all day long. Usual Sunday dinner. 1

Monday 10th December. Idled away the morning trying to paint in water colour with Arthur. Played lawn tennis in the afternoon. Had a lot of people to call at 5. Mr and Mrs Willie Hanson amongst them. Received in the evening. Tuesday 11th December. Cut out work. Mrs Willie came and we had a game of lawn tennis. News of the fall of Plevna. Osman Pasha had tried to cut his way out, had failed, been wounded and taken prisoner. I went to the Khan in the afternoon to meet Sœur Madeleine 2 and give her things for the refugees. Took Mrs Willie there and brought Mrs de Winton back. Wednesday 12th December. Wrote for mail all the morning. At 2 went out alone to call on Princess Reuss being her day, but she was not visible as I took a drive and then returned about 5. Mmes Honischen 3 , Whitaker and Privilegio 4 called and others at 5. Played billiards in the evening. News came that Osman Pasha was dead having poisoned himself. Thursday 13lh December. We played tennis. Mr Lovett called and others. Arthur read aloud some of Kingsley's life 5 before dinner to me. Friday 14th December. Arthur and I set to work to make Jerry's portrait, he in water colours, I in oils. After lunch I went out driving in the open carriage with Mrs de Winton to the Sweet Waters. I found it very cold. Mr Christich came in the morning to beg Henry to lend him a cavass to see him off as Serbia had declared war and he must leave. Saturday 15th December. I went on with my sketch of Jerry in the morning. The Parniss' called. Sunday 16th December. Went to church in morning. Proposed to Mr Grabble to give us an evening service. Lunched at 1.30 intending to go to Hisar to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha but it was so threatening we had to give it up. Embassy dined with us as usual. 1

Arthur Edward Guest, Lady Layard's brother.

2

A Roman Catholic sister involved in refugee work.

3

A member of a Levantine family.

4

Wife of Nicholas Privilegio, an Anglo-Levantine trader.

5

Charles Kingsley, his Letters and Memories of his Life, London 1877.

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11

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Monday 17lh December. In the afternoon we played lawn tennis and Mrs Henry Hanson came and played and then she came again in the evening when we received. Tuesday 18lh December. I woke with a headache and as I had promised to go to Hisar with Henry I took the precaution of lying down until lunch time when I got up and dressed and went down to sit at lunch and then Henry, the General and I started in the open carriage for Dolmabah§e where the 6-oared caique was waiting for us. It threatened rain and was cold and we did not have a very agreeable trip. We found the Pasha in the house overheated with stoves and mangak. I paid a visit a visit to the harem but was glad to get away as my head ached badly and we got home about 5 and I had to go to bed and suffered a good deal all the evening. At 9 Mrs de Winton came to me and remained with me till after 11. Wednesday 19th December. Dr Dickson hearing I was ill came. I had to stay in bed all day and Mrs de Winton was with me a great deal. Thursday December. Got up about lunch as I had to receive Princess Nazli who stayed from about 2 till 5. She is going to leave her husband who has softening of the brain and a ship has been sent for her to return to Egypt by her uncle the Khedive. Mrs de Winton helped to entertain Miss Meyrick and Jerry waited on us. Henry dined with Zichy at a dinner given in honour of Jacoub Khan. Friday 21st December. Better and on the sofa in the afternoon. Saturday 22nd December. Arthur and Mrs de Winton went to meeting at the chapel to consult and arrange the Christmas decorations. I was up and better but could not go out and Mr Gribble came in to see me and consult about it. Sunday 23rd December. I was not well enough to go to church so I employed my time in cutting out the gold paper letters which are to go on the board over the communion table in the church for the Christmas decorations. In the morning three beautiful little wire cages with ivory ornaments containing 6 birds arrived as a present to me from the Sultan. In the afternoon I took a turn with Henry in the garden and then made him some cigarettes. The Embassy dined with us. Monday 24th December. Went out to the church to help the decorations. Giovanni 1 and Mme Joubert 2 arrived from Madrid with 136 boxes containing our goods and chattels. I spent all the morning at the chapel cleaning the organ which I found in a very forsaken state. In the afternoon Mrs Willie came and helped. I received in the evening but few came. Arthur ' The Layards' Italian manservant. Wife of the French cook.

- 78 and Mr Thompson remained in the ballroom till after 12 pasting on the gold letters. Tuesday Christmas Day. The General, Mr and Mrs de Winton gave me presents. We all went to church. The chapel looked very nice. The Parniss called also Mr Fernandez and the Zarifis. We were 28 to dinner: the Barings, Jocelyn, Kennedy, Elliot, Smijth, Lewison Gower, Ct Pisani, Bartlett, Molloy, Mr James, Arthur, 2 student dragomans, Mr Wrench, Barrett 1 , Col. Maitland 2 , the General. Wednesday 26th December. Had a headache and stayed in bed and wrote. Got on the sofa in the afternoon but felt very low and unwell and sent for Dr Dickson but he was out Thursday 27th December. Stayed in bed all day and the doctor came. Giovanni began to unpack our things. Friday 28"1 December. Saw Mrs Millingen in the morning. She came up before I got up and 1 had to see her on business. I got up in the afternoon but felt so low that Mrs de Winton made me go out for a turn in the garden. Unpacking still going on. Saturday 29th December. Better, got up about 12. Went down to see what was being done and then came back to my boudoir. After lunch I sat in Henry's room and directed arrangements but could not do much myself. Mr Jocelyn brought his tools and began to cover a table for me. I dined downstairs. Mr Sandison, Mr Rawson, and Mr Kennedy dined. The General and the de Wintons dined with the Parniss. Blowing a gale. Sunday 30th December. Snowing hard and I could not go to church. In the afternoon I went to sit with Arthur in his room while he smoked and then he told me all his domestic troubles and we were both very much upset. The Embassy dined also Mr Bland of F.O. who came as Messenger last Wednesday. I arranged a little china after dinner. Monday 31st December. Arthur went to church in the morning and afterwards we went down to arrange the drawing rooms a little. Giovanni was still unpacking. With Mrs de Winton and Arthur I arranged the drawing room. Had a dinner party: Rauf Pasha 3 , Mehmed Ali Pasha (late one of the Commanders in Chief of Army) Bluhm Pasha, Said Pasha (Minister of Marine), Sandison, the General, Arthur, Jocelyn, Yakoub Khan (Envoy of Kashgar) and Capt. Molloy. We had a dance in the evening and although a great many people came the evening was spoiled by Mme d'Ehrenhoffs having given a dance also. Just before dinner Mrs W. Hanson came to see me ' Unable to identify.

2 Probably a

one of the British military observers at the front.

• Newly appointed commander in chief.

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and had a long talk to me about her home and husband and I tried to do her good. How I thank God for my happy marriage, knowing now 3 marriages which are not so and the parties also happening to be consulting me. We went to bed about 1.30.

1878 Tuesday 1st January. Mrs W. Hanson came and we both helped Mrs de Winton to finish a calico dress she was making for Mr Rawson to act in and then she took Mrs de Winton to Kandilli. I received a curious silver chased cup as a souvenir from Mehmed Ali Pasha. He wrote me word it had belonged to Ali Pasha of Yanina and so it is doubly curious and valuable. I played a game of tennis in the court. Wednesday 2nd January. Wrote for the post. Mr Rawson left to rejoin his ship. Drove out with Mrs de Winton and called on Mmes Parniss, d'Ehrenhoff and found them all in. Thursday 3rd January. We started at 10 and went to Therapia with Antelope. We took Arthur, the General, Messrs Elliot, Kennedy and Mr Smith and Mr Keating, two travellers. We had a lovely day, fine but cold. We got to Therabia about 11.30 and went at once to settle with Mr Elliot which of their furniture we should buy. We then took a walk in the garden and as we went along the quay 1 stopped with Arthur and made a sketch of our house. We boarded the Antelope and had luncheon about 2. We went up a little way toward the Black Sea and then back to Constantinople. We got to Dolmabah§e about 4 and drove straight home. Mme Condouriotis called. Friday 4lh January. Had a confab with Messrs Kennedy and Sandison about a dinner party for Monday next. Mr Master arrived from Sofia with alarming news of advance of the Russians. Mme and Miss Parniss called. I went out with Mrs de Winton to the Khan and coming home called on Mme Dolez who was in. On my return I found Jerry in disgrace and intended sending him to bed as he could not get the key to his room I shut him in the work rook and went down to receive visitors viz., Lady Thomas, Mrs and Miss Scudamore, Baron and Baroness Hirsch 1 , Dr Temple Bey, etc. When I went up I found Jerry had been let out by Arthur as he had opened the

1

Baron Maurice von Hirsch, Austrian railway entrepreneur.

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and had a long talk to me about her home and husband and I tried to do her good. How I thank God for my happy marriage, knowing now 3 marriages which are not so and the parties also happening to be consulting me. We went to bed about 1.30.

1878 Tuesday 1st January. Mrs W. Hanson came and we both helped Mrs de Winton to finish a calico dress she was making for Mr Rawson to act in and then she took Mrs de Winton to Kandilli. I received a curious silver chased cup as a souvenir from Mehmed Ali Pasha. He wrote me word it had belonged to Ali Pasha of Yanina and so it is doubly curious and valuable. I played a game of tennis in the court. Wednesday 2nd January. Wrote for the post. Mr Rawson left to rejoin his ship. Drove out with Mrs de Winton and called on Mmes Parniss, d'Ehrenhoff and found them all in. Thursday 3rd January. We started at 10 and went to Therapia with Antelope. We took Arthur, the General, Messrs Elliot, Kennedy and Mr Smith and Mr Keating, two travellers. We had a lovely day, fine but cold. We got to Therabia about 11.30 and went at once to settle with Mr Elliot which of their furniture we should buy. We then took a walk in the garden and as we went along the quay 1 stopped with Arthur and made a sketch of our house. We boarded the Antelope and had luncheon about 2. We went up a little way toward the Black Sea and then back to Constantinople. We got to Dolmabah§e about 4 and drove straight home. Mme Condouriotis called. Friday 4lh January. Had a confab with Messrs Kennedy and Sandison about a dinner party for Monday next. Mr Master arrived from Sofia with alarming news of advance of the Russians. Mme and Miss Parniss called. I went out with Mrs de Winton to the Khan and coming home called on Mme Dolez who was in. On my return I found Jerry in disgrace and intended sending him to bed as he could not get the key to his room I shut him in the work rook and went down to receive visitors viz., Lady Thomas, Mrs and Miss Scudamore, Baron and Baroness Hirsch 1 , Dr Temple Bey, etc. When I went up I found Jerry had been let out by Arthur as he had opened the

1

Baron Maurice von Hirsch, Austrian railway entrepreneur.

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window and howled so that a crowd began to collect and the porter came in to ask what was the matter. 1 sent him up to bed. Messrs Smijth, Kennedy, and L. Gower dined with us. Saturday 5th January. I spent all the morning with Mr Kennedy and Arthur making a list of New Year's cards to be returned. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to see us and stayed to luncheon. At 3 went out with Mrs de Winton to pay visits and leave cards. Found Mme Zarifi at home. Mme Fernandez called and saw her. We dined quite alone with the General and Arthur and went early to bed. Sunday 6lh January. I went to church in the morning. It was very cold and as I was not feeling very well I could not go to the evening service which began at 5.30 and was the first evening service ever held here. The Embassy, 2 student dragomans and Messrs Keating and Smijth dined with us. Monday 7th January. Cut out clothes for refugees. Mrs W. Hanson came to lunch. Mr Grabble called just before lunch. Unpacked knic knacs and arranged them in urnas. Played tennis in the afternoon and had a good practice under Arthur and Mr Smijth. The Serkis', the Grand Vizier, Server Pasha, Ct Corti, Mr Sandison, Mr Jocelyn, the General, Arthur, Zichy dined. Dancing till 12. Tuesday 8 th January. Mrs de Winton and I cut out all the morning. Mrs W. Hanson called in the morning. At 3 I went out in the chair with Mr Gribble to the Seaman's Hospital and was taken all over by Dr Patterson 1 .1 then went to the Institute which was close by. Afterwards went to pay some visits. Found Mrs Maynard at home. Arthur and I made slippers out of cork soles and cloth. The de Wintons dined with us. Wednesday 9th January. Wrote a few letters for the post. Mrs Parniss and girls came and we cut out garments. I played tennis with Henry, Mr Smijth and Arthur. The Mavrocordatos and Simmons called. We dined at 7.15. After dinner, Mrs de Winton and I went in chairs to the Teutonia to be present at the Christmas Tree given by the Dorcas Society. We stayed there 1/2 hour. It was very hot and noisy as the numbers of the prices were roared out from the stage. Comic songs etc were sung at intervals. There was also tea and some small lotteries. We started one and then went home. I had taken Jerry who was supremely happy. Had tea and went to bed. News of the death of the King of Italy. Thursday 10lh January. I was in bed nearly all day with a headache. News came that the Shipka army had been taken by the Russians — in all 15 or 20,000. In the afternoon Mrs H. and Mrs W. Hanson came to see me and with Mrs de Winton sat a long time with me, I on the sofa. Arthur had Mr H. ' Dr J. Patterson, director of the hospital.

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Hanson to talk to. Went to the Dorcas Concert in the evening in chair with Mrs de Winton and Mr Jocelyn and Kennedy. The General and Henry, Arthur and Kennedy dined. The concert was very full. I sat with the Hanson and d'Ehrenhoffs. Very good music and singing. The overture to Dinorah etc. A Mme Livadari sang, — an Italian lady. Between the acts I retired to a small room where lemonade was given and after all was over the director and Mme Livadari came and were introduced to me. A wet evening. Friday 11th January. The messenger arrived. Rained hard and no going out. Played tennis. Set to work to clean the brass of an old clock Arthur had bought at the Bazaars. Mr Woodford dined with us. Saturday 12th January. The Russians are advancing to Philipoppolis and people are beginning to leave Adrianople and come down here. Major de Winton has made arrangements to receive a lot of them, feed and lodge them. He told us he had taken in 1470 people into an empty house given the Compassionate Fund for the Turks, more expected in the night. It snowed and blew hard all day. Awful weather for the poor souls. We went to dine with the Reuss. A diplomatic dinner, the Dolez, Zichy and his son, the Dutch minister 1 whom I saw for the first time and who got "screwed" as is his wont. Bad food and not a very well furnished house. Arthur dined with the General at the Sporting Club. Sunday 13th January. Went in chair to the Memorial Church with Captain Molloy whom 1 met at our door. Met Mrs de Winton there. Very nice church and service and good music. Mrs H. Hanson played the organ. It snowed a little all morning. Went to the Embassy chapel in the evening. Major de Winton was down at the station all day trying to help to feed the poor refugees — but their number is now overwhelming. Jerry was so naughty I sent him to prison on board the Antelope. Monday M " January. Henry went off to the Porte directly after breakfast. Arthur went to the Bazaar with Giovanni. Mrs de Winton went to the station and came back with a horrible account of the fearful rush of refugees and how there had been a railway accident and there were many killed and wounded. We begged Arthur to go with Giovanni to see if he could help. He rushed off with our servant Vartan and Giovanni and did not come in till about 11 bringing the Major and Lewison Gower who had been there all day. We had no reception having put it off on account of the death of the King of Italy. Tuesday 15,h January. Helped Arthur to prepare packets of tobacco for distribution to the refugees. Mrs Willie Hanson also came and helped and also

1

M.I. Heldewier.

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Mrs de Winton. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to luncheon. We gave him some tobacco to show to the Sultan. Wednesday 16th January. Wrote for the post. Mrs Willie Hanson came to lunch. We went to the church practice at 4.30 and afterwards Mrs de Winton and I went down to the station to see a refugee train come in. We were met by the Pasha and told a train will be in shortly. We walked up the line to see the soup being made in readiness for the poor creatures on their arrival. After waiting a little and talking to Mr Masters and Major de Winton and watching them count over bread in a truck they were going to send up the line for those who were stopped en route, we went home to dinner. Went to the Reuss in the evening. Thursday 17th January. Was in bed all day with a headache and only got up in time to go down to dinner. Friday IS" January. Mrs A. Hanson came and took away cut out work to make. She lunched here. After lunch Mrs de Winton and I went down to the station to see refugees arrive. A train came in just as we got there. The women and children were in the trucks, the men on the tops with their guns and parcels, etc. It was a cold, drizzly day. The poor things never said a word but merely followed the men appointed to take them off to shelter in 20's and 30's. Some were put into tents and there sat patiently waiting for the food promised them. Large sacks of bread and cauldrons of soup were brought. Earthen ware pans were set full of soup before them and a few wooden spoons which they lent each other all in a most orderly way. Saturday 19th January. Henry went to the funeral ceremony for the King of Italy. Very cold. I did not go out. Played tennis. Miss Maynard and Mrs Schuyler called. Capt. Hamond, Mr Sandison and Mr Smijth dined. Sunday 20th January. Very heavy snow and I could not get to church but went in the evening. Arranged some of our books. Very bad news: the Russians at or near Adrianople; so we decided to have no more dancing on Monday nights. Monday 21sl January. It snowed hard and it was very cold. Mr Masters called and gave a dreadful account of the suffering of the refugees. Many were frozen to death. Some fell off the top of carriages, some sat on buffers and were killed, mothers in despair threw their dying children out of carriages etc. Ahmed Vefik Pasha called. Mrs W. Hanson came and Mr Jocelyn to tea and we sang glees. The Hansons dined with us. Received in the evening but no dancing. Tuesday 22nd January. Arthur and I had a long talk in the morning. He made up his mind to start for England tomorrow. In the afternoon Major de Winton begged us to make some badges for the arms of his hammals who

- 83 want a mark to distinguish them from others so we worked at these till dinner and again after dinner. Wednesday 23"* January. Wrote for messenger all the morning. Arthur abandoned his idea of starting today and decided to stay another week. In the afternoon Mrs de Winton and I drove out and left cards. Came in, had tea and worked at covering the screen. Count Zichy dined with us and after dinner we went to the Reuss' reception. Thursday 24 ,b January. Mrs de Winton and I went to the chapel to practise the harmonium and also walked in the garden. Arthur went to see the mosques. In the afternoon 1 helped to arrange the table for our dinner party. The Reuss, the Condouriotis dined with us. In the evening Henry came from his room where he had been writing, looking excited and said to Reuss and Condouriotis, "You will hear some news tomorrow. I can't tell you what it is." When all our guests had left Henry told us he had news that the Fleet was coming up here and would arrive tomorrow morning. Henry went to the Porte to get permission for it to pass the Dardanelles and said he was to be waked when Mr Sandison returned with it. We therefore had a very sleepless night and at 5 A.M. arrived a letter and Mr Sandison and Mr Jocelyn and Henry got up to speak with them in my boudoir. Friday 25 th January. At breakfast Henry gave us the news that the Fleet had been stopped at the Dardanelles by a telegram with counter orders from our Government and we felt awfully low and disgusted. Of course we are the laughing stock of this place and especially of the Germans. Saturday 26 th January. I drove out with Mrs de Winton paying visits. Went to the church singing practise and had to run home to be in time for dinner. Sunday 27 th January. I had a headache and could not move all day. Towards the evening I got better and was able to go to church and to play the harmonium and dined as usual. Baker Pasha and Hobart Pasha besides Embassy dined with us. Monday 28 th January. Had the first Dorcas meeting under my Presidency — a whole roomful of people. Gave them tea. Mrs W. Hanson came and worked and bid me goodbye as she is going to England on Wednesday. Usual reception. No dancing. Tuesday 29 th January. Was done up and had a headache so I stayed in bed nearly all day only working at coloring Arthur's sketch out of my window. Arthur went to mosques and bazaars. Wednesday 30th January. Arthur left for England and we missed him very much. As soon as he was gone we played lawn tennis. Thursday 31 st January. We had a dinner party tonight of Zarifis.

- 84 Friday 1st February, fno entry). Saturday 2nd February. Worked and in the afternoon went to the Khan with Mrs de Winton. She was feeling tired and unwell so I gave her some tea in her own room. We went to diner with Mokhsin Khan at the Persian Embassy at Stamboul — a large dinner where everything was cold and bad excepting the Persian pilaf. After dinner we paid his wife a visit. At first Mme Gargiulo 1 tried to interpret for us but we soon found that Mrs Baring was a better hand at it and we got on very well. There was a very pretty fair almost red haired slave who brought in the tea. We left at about 10 but found the old bridge open and had to go round by the new one and were dreadfully shaken and jolted only going at a foot's pace. Sunday 3rd February. Mrs de Winton had been ill with fever all night and was in bed all today. I went to church in the morning. Taught Jerry his catechism in the afternoon and walked in the garden with Henry. Went to call on Mrs Thompson. To church and sat with the choir. Embassy to dinner. Monday 4th February. Worked and cut out. Went in the afternoon with Henry to Stamboul to show him the Compassionate Fund Refugee home. From there we went to St Sophia which was full of refugees. They told us there were between 4 and 5,000 people there. It was a wonderful sight. Each family had installed itself in a group barricaded by their rugs etc., some were lying ill, some were huddled over their mangals. It was a curious contrast looking down on this misery and then looking up at the glorious building— the finest temple in the world— with its gold mosaics and fine marbles. From there we went to see the new smallpox hospital we had just started in a college building given us by Ahmed Vefik Pasha for that purpose. There we found his homme d'affaires who told us the Ministry was out and that Ahmed Vefik Pasha had been called to form a government and be President of the Council and that the post of Grand vizier had been abolished. We went home by 5 . 1 worked at covering my screen till diner time. Received in the evening. No dancing. Tuesday 5" February. Played tennis. Count Radolinski called and brought Pasteur Sichle 2 . In the evening I went to the Reuss for some serious music but Heniy had to stop at home and write. Wednesday 6th February. Wrote hard all the morning long having a lot to copy for Henry as Mr Kennedy went away to Naples with Arthur for change of air. It is discovered that the Russians have taken possession of the lines of Biiyiik Qekmece and Bolayir and driven out the Turks so that they can walk into Constantinople any moment. General indignation at the feeling ' Wife of Joseph Gargiulo, dragoman of the US legation. Probably the chaplain of the German embassy.

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we have been made such fools of by Russia and all is now too late. We played tennis in the afternoon. Thursday 7th February. Cutting out day for refugees. No one came so Mrs de Winton worked alone. Mme Fernandez called on me also the Mercets 1 and Raabs 2 and C. Hansons. News from Gallipoli that hospitals are in want of mattresses so I sent to beg Mr Young to come which he did after dinner. Dr Leslie returned in very bad state from ill treatment from the Russians who took all the English Red Crescent and Cross doctors and almost killed them with the most brutal treatment. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to lunch and showed us the seal of office he wears in a diamond set purse round his neck. The seal is plain gold with the Sultan's cypher and has to be worn day and night by the Vizier. On a Sultan's accession 2 are made, one being kept by the monarch and when he dies a bar is cut across the two seals and they are laid byFriday 8th February. Worked all morning. Went out in the afternoon in carriage. On my way for a drive I passed Mme Dolez walking and I invited her to drive with me which she accepted. News of the death of the Pope Pio Nono. He has not long survived Victor Emmanuel. Messrs Smijth and L. Gower dined. Saturday 9th February. Henry went early off to see Ahmed Vefik in the morning. Being tired 1 did not get up to breakfast. The Messenger came in. As I was sitting at work Henry came and said, "The Fleet is coming up". He had heard that they were on their way. He sent Mr Sandison to get the order from the Porte to let them through. To our astonishment Ahmed Vefik Pasha refused permission. Walked in the garden with Henry in great excitement. Mr Sandison and Mr Elliot dined with us — all went away directly after and the General and I played billiards. Many came to see Henry and half a dozen more came to have the news confirmed. Henry expects there will be a row at the Dardanelles if the Fleet insists upon coming up. Lady Kemball arrived yesterday and called today. Mrs de Winton went to Kandilli for the night. Sunday 10th February. At breakfast Henry announced that Ahmed Vefik had sent him word that the Fleet, on finding their passage opposed had gone back to Besika to await instructions and so a second time we have cut a foolish figure. Coco opened his cage door and flew away. Luckily we caught him in a tree in the garden. Went to morning church. Coming out met Scudamore who congratulated me on the approaching arrival of the Fleet and opened his eyes very wide when I told him it was not coming. Jerry was naughty and I had to punish him by keeping him prisoner and making him 1

A director of the Banque Impériale Ottomane.

2

Joseph von Raab, Austro-Hungarian military attaché.

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walk in the garden as such. Mr Dolez and Henry walked with me. A most lovely day and the sun quite hot. Went to evening church. Ahmed Vefik came to beg for £1000 for refugees who he said were starving. Lady Kemball, Hobart Pasha dined along with Mr E. Alexander 1 son of Lord Caledon. Mr Bartlett came after dinner. Monday 11th February. The de Wintons returned from Kandilli and we all condoled over the non-arrival of the Fleet. Mme Parniss and her two girls came to cut out and help to work. Mrs C. Hanson came to see me. Ahmed Vefik came to see Henry and they sent for me. After lunch Mrs de Winton and I went to Mrs Millingen's where the Dorcas meeting was held. We could not get up to the door as the street was narrow for a carriage. We stayed there about an hour working and discussing and then went for a drive and to leave our names on the Grand Duchess of Saxe-Weimar 2 . A few visits were paid to me in the afternoon. Had a dinner party of 16. Lebets, Uribarris, Herbert, Zichy, Austin Wrench, Lew. Gower, Capt. Woods, Persian minister. Zichy took me to dinner and made himself very agreeable and was very tender. Had usual reception in the evening. A great many people came. Tuesday 12th February. Mrs de Winton and I spent all the morning cutting out garments. The Envoy of Kashgar and Capt. Molloy came to luncheon. I had ordered the carriage to drive out but Henry said he would walk with me in the garden and so I cut out again till he sent for me. When I joined him in the garden he said, "Here is a pretty mess! The Government is going to send the Fleet up at once and the Turks say they will not let them pass the Dardanelles but will fire on them." Henry had sent for Said Pasha to try and make him get Ahmed Vefik and the Sultan give in. Everything depended on it. If they fired we should be at war with them and Turkey would be done for. Shortly after I went out Hobart Pasha arrived and Henry sent him off to look for Said (English Said) Pasha. Then Zichy arrived — and so I left him with Henry. Under our garden wall we saw a large drove of cattle driven by zaptiyes who undoubtedly had taken them from Circassians who had probably plundered them. Mr Sandison, Mr Drury (Messenger) and Capt. Trotter 3 dined. As dinner was over Said and Server Pashas came and Henry was shut up with them all the evening. We played billiards. Hobart Pasha came also — at last the two ministers were said to have gone having given in and the Fleet is to be allowed to pass. We went to bed at 11.30. About 2 we were wakened by a letter brought by an ADC from Vefik Pasha saying it had been decided not to let the Fleet pass and asking Henry to stop its coming. He ' Eric Alexander 5 t h Earl of Caledon.

2

The Grand Duchess is the mother of Princess Reuss, the wife of the German ambassador. British military observer at the front..

- 87 wrote that it was now too late and the orders of our Government were absolute. Wednesday 13lh February. About 11 o'clock in walked Mrs de Winton's brother (Mr Rawson) having come up with despatches. No news yet of the Fleet having passed the Dardanelles. Mrs de Winton had a bad toothache. It snowed hard all day. Mrs A. Hanson came up and lunched here. Worked and cut out all day. Mr Smijth and Elliot dined and Mrs de Winton was not well enough to come. In the evening we went to the Reuss' to be introduced to the Grand Duchess of Saxe-Weimar, the Princess's mother, a good stout old party with a luxuriant wig and lots of diamonds and rubies. There was serious music but after the first piece Henry and I slipped away as he was anxious to get home again. No news of the Fleet. Thursday 14th February. Spent the day cutting out and arranging things for Compassionate Fund. Made Jerry clean out the work room. Henry got a letter from the Palace at 5 this morning to say that the Fleet had passed the Dardanelles but that the Alexandra had got on shore. Henry was very busy all day. It snowed hard the whole day. Miss Maynard called on me also Mrs Whitaker and Mrs Honischen who came to sniff for news but I knew none to give them. Wrote some letters before dinner. The de Winton and Mr Rawson dined with us. Played billiards in the evening. Friday 15th February. At breakfast Henry told me that the Fleet had arrived and that Capt. Egerton of the Salamis had been here and Henry had sent him back to the Princes' Islands where the Fleet was anchored to beg the Admiral to come here at once. I wrote and copied for Henry. Mr Kennedy returned from Naples where he had been for change of air. While we were at luncheon in walked Admiral Hornby, his secretary Mr Kirkness and his Flag lieutenant Mr Winslow and then Hobart Pasha came in. Wrote more letters after lunch. The snow suddenly stopped and 1 went down about half past 3 to see whether Henry would walk in the garden. Found Hobart Pasha who had just returned from Yildiz Kiosk with a message to beg Henry would go and see H.M. Mrs de Winton and I walked in the garden, one walk having been swept of snow, till 5.30. Came in to tea and the Admiral, Mr Winslow, Mr Jocelyn and the General came up to tea. At 6.30 we went to the choir practice. Dined at 8.30 and Mr Smijth, Kennedy and L. Gower dined with us. Hobart Pasha came in evening. The Fleet is going away to Mudanya. Saturday 16th February. Sang a little in the morning and Mrs de Winton sat and listened — the first time we had been idle for many a day. Mrs A. Hanson came to luncheon and the de Wintons. Henry brought Ct Zichy in later to lunch. Mrs de Winton had a threatening of fever and had to lie down. I went to walk in the garden with Henry. The new French

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Ambassador 1 arrived today and called on Henry. Mr Ashburnham returned from his leave and Lord George Montague arrived as new attaché to take Mr Elliot's place. He leaves on Friday next. While walking in the garden Admiral Hornby and Mr Winslow came and walked with us. Snow still on the ground though there is a partial thaw and the sun is hot. The Herberts, Mme Dolez, and Mme Lebet called. Mrs de Winton in bed with fever. The Major, Mr Jocelyn and Mr Kennedy and Elliot dined with us. Hobart Pasha came in evening. Sunday 17th February. Mrs de Winton still in bed. I arranged her room and then went to church. 30 cyphered telegrams came in before church time so none of the gentlemen could get to church. Mrs A. Hanson and her 3 children came to our pew. Henry did not come to luncheon. He was gone to the Sultan. I sat with Mrs de Winton in the afternoon until Mrs A. Hanson came in and then Mrs Lebet called. Went to evening church. Mr Kennedy read the lessons. 14 to dinner in evening. All the Embassy dined including the Barings. Hobart Pasha dined. Monday 18th February. Mrs de Winton a little better. Spent a good deal of time with her. Made Jerry do his lessons. Mrs Parniss and Mrs A. Hanson came in the morning to call. At 3 Admiral Hornby came and as Henry was busy he came and sat with me. Afterwards I went out with him in the chair to make some calls and went in to Mrs Cullen 2 , found the daughter-in-law only, the mother was ill, went on to the Dorcas meeting at Mrs Lafontaine's and stayed there about 1 hour just to settle the business of the day. Capts Mackinnon 3 and [blank] dined with us and Mr Ashburnham and Major de Winton. Usual reception. Mehmed Ali Pasha came. Tuesday 19th February. Mrs de Winton was better and got up and came and sat in my boudoir. After lunch I played tennis with Mr Smijth and Kennedy but as soon as Henry came in from the Porte they were called for telegrams. Later I walked in the garden with Henry. The Russians are coming to S. Stefano, the Grand Duke Nicholas is going to take up his headquarters there. Wednesday 20 th February. Mrs de Winton worse again and could not get up. The Russians demand the Turkish fleet to be given up to them. Hobart Pasha in the greatest state of mind. After lunch I went out in chair to call on the French Ambassadress. Found her in, a nice, kind, motherly looking person, a pleasant looking daughter about 24. Capt. Trotter left for England and took the despatches as the messenger did not go. The Admiral came in 1

H. Fournier.

2

Wife of Dr Cullen, a British physician practising in Constantinople since the Crimean War.

3

British military observer at the front.

- 89 the afternoon and sat with me some time while waiting to see Henry. Great excitement about the demand of the Fleet. Capt. Molloy dined. Thursday 21st February. Mrs de Winton very ill indeed, suffering in her head. Admiral Hornby, Mr Winslow and Kirkness and Rawson lunched. Mrs Parniss and Beechie 1 came and cut out and worked. I sat all the afternoon in Mrs de Winton's room as she was very ill. Hobart Pasha dined with us. I went early to bed and as I went up Mr Jocelyn came after me to say that a telegram had come saying our Government has threatened to withdraw our Ambassador from St Petersburg if the Russians enter Constantinople — almost a declaration of war. Elliot and Ashburnham dined. Friday 22nd February. Mrs de Winton still ill. Mrs A. Hanson came and we worked together and she lunched with us. In the afternoon I went out in the garden intending to walk with Henry but so many people came to call that 1 had to take my book and sit and read while he walked up and down talking to them. Mr Bartlett came at 6 and worked at my screen for me and then Henry came up for a little while. Major de Winton, Mr Smijth and Lord G. Montague dined. Hobart Pasha came in the evening. Mr FJliot left for Vienna today. The messenger left for England. Saturday 23rd February. Mrs de Winton still very ill and the Major very upset about it. Mme Parniss and Beechie came and worked here. After lunch I sat with Mrs de Winton. At 1/4 to 4 I went out with the General. We walked to the Sport Club to pay Hobart Pasha a visit there in his rooms over the Club. He gave us tea. Mr Jocelyn joined us. Came home at 5. Worked at my screen and Major de Winton helped me. We dined at Zichy's, a dinner given to the French ambassador. The Greek minister sat next me. In the evening Mr Fitch played. We left early. Sunday 24th February. I went to church after teaching Jerry his catechism. Sat a little with Mrs de Winton in afternoon and walked in the garden with Henry. A very fine hot day. Went to evening service. Mrs de Winton still very ill. Hobart Pasha, Mr Bartlett, Capt. Chermside, Major de Winton dined with us. Monday 25th February. I was in bed all day with a headache and billious attack. Hill had plenty of work looking after me and Mrs de Winton who is rather worse again. I got on the sofa in my boudoir about 5 but felt good for nothing and as I was dressing for dinner I was so sick I had to give up the attempt and lie down again. I dressed and went down after dinner but was too unwell to stay long. We had great dinner for the Fourniers. Hornby came to stay with us.

' Her daughter.

- 90 Tuesday 26th February. Mrs de Winton was much worse and Dr Patterson was called in to a consultation. It was determined that she has typhoid fever. Major de Winton went to look for 2 nurses and got a Greek and old Mrs Audey an old English woman. Mrs A. Hanson called. Admiral Hornby left us and returned to the Fleet. Wednesday 27th February. Mrs de Winton still seriously ill. Wrote letters for post and messenger. Prince Louis of Battenberg called on us. In the afternoon went out with Henry in the Victoria. Drove to the Sweet Waters and walked after in the garden. Mme Pisani, Mme H. Guarracino and Mme Edwards called. While we were at dinner Dr Dickson came in to give an account of Mrs de Winton. He said she was not worse though very ill. Told him I was not satisfied with her nurses and Hill was getting worn out and he promised to look for Mme de Rosen, a German nurse now here. Thursday 28th February. We went out for the day in the Antelope. The General, Mr Jocelyn, Hobart Pasha, Mr Smijth, Mr Kennedy went with us. We went to visit the Fleet in Tuzla. Took about 3 hours going, the Antelope being very slow. As we got there and passed each ship, the Royal salutes were given on each ship. The Admiral's barge fetched us at once and we went on board the Alexandra. The Duke of Edinburgh came at once to visit Henry and went away soon after as he had Prince Louis de Battenberg's brother, a staff officer of the Grand Duke Nicholas staying with him. At the Fleet, they are furious at H.R.H. having invited him there and at his taking Prince Battenberg over the different ships. We had a grand lunch and the band played. Directly afterwards Henry went with the Admiral to return the Duke's visit. I went on board the Téméraire to see the new 25 ton gun which is moved by hydraulic pressure and which the Admiral calls a "Jack in the box". Capt. Seymour was very kind to us but we had a very short time to stay as it took us so long to get home. The sun shone just as we left but it was cold all day. We brought Mr Rawson with us to see his sister. We hurried home as it was 7 and Henry had to dress and dine with Ct Corti. We found Ahmed Vefik Pasha waiting to see us and as Henry had to hurry off, he stayed to dine with me. We had besides Hobart Pasha, the General, Major de Winton and Mr Smijth, a nice little party but the Grand Vizier was very depressed. He said the Queen had said some very kind things to Musurus 1 and that the Sultan was very much touched. We played billiards in the evening. Mme de Rosen turned up from Bebek and took charge of Mrs de Winton much to our satisfaction. Henry came home early but Ahmed Vefik had left. Friday l'1 March. I was not very well and Dr Dickson gave me some horrid compound which made me feel CD all day. I tried to play lawn tennis a little ' Kostaki Musurus Pasha, the Ottoman ambassador in London.

- 91 while in the afternoon but had to give it up and return to the sewing machine. Mr Bartlett came to call. Henry went out early to dine with the Persian minister. The General, Major de Winton and Mr Rawson dined with me. Mrs de Winton not so well and we were very anxious. Henry came home about 10.30 and we went early to bed. Saturday 2nd March. News of Willis and Percival, our banker 1 . Mrs de Winton took a very favourable turn in the night and we have great hopes of her recovery. Cut out and worked for refugees. Mrs and the two Misses Parniss came and cut out a little while I walked with Henry in the garden in the afternoon. Visit from Mr Stoney who asked for medical stores, also from Mme and Mile Lebet. Major de Winton dined with us, the General was not well and did not come down to dinner. In the evening Mr Smijth and Hobart Pasha came and helped me to make bandages. Sunday 3rd March. Continued improvement in Mrs de Winton. Went to morning church. After lunch walk in the garden with Henry and Sir A. Kemball. Went to evening church. Lady Strangford, Mr Bartlett and embassy dined with us. Lady Strangford has just returned from Sofia via Trieste and Vienna, very lackadaisical and full of impossible stories. Monday 4th March. News that peace was signed yesterday at San Stephano. After lunch I went in the chair to the Maynards' reception to meet the ex-President of the U.S. of A. The house was small and crowded. I found Mr Maynard in the first room. Mr Schluyler came up, offered me his arms and said, "Allow me to present you to General Grant". At the end of an inner room a stout party was sitting in the sofa dressed in the height of Paris fashion and this was Mrs Grant. She bent forward on hearing my name without rising so I stood back and waited on which she rose and so did the General and I quietly sat in his place by Mrs Grant. There was a circle formed round and all the Grants did was to reiterate the names of people as they were presented. I soon got up to speak to some one and the General at once popped back into his seat. I only stayed a few minutes and then went on to the Dorcas meeting at Mrs Smythe 2 . Found only two girls there as there had been a sad accident. A great many people went in a pleasure steamer yesterday to San Stefano to see the Russians. Coming back the steamer was so long mooring at the bridge that some gentlemen jumped into a Maltese boat which overturned and 4 people were drowned amongst them a young Easton brother of the girls who sing in our church choir. I met Mrs Baker and she was in a dreadful state about it. We had a dinner party tonight in honour of General Grant and his wife and son. Mr and Mrs Maynard, Zichy, Fournier, Mr Foster, the 1

Willis, Percival and Co failed having lost a large sum of money in Greece. Wife of W.F. Smythe, comptroller general of the Banque Impériale Ottomane.

- 92 Kemballs, Cemil Pasha 1 and Said Pasha dined with us. We had a great many people and being Lundi Gras, we let them dance. They kept it up till 1. Tuesday 5 th March. Henry got up very early and went off to Stamboul to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha and came back just as I had breakfast. I played lawn tennis in the court. Dined alone in my boudoir at 7. After dinner Dr Dickson looked in for a little while. The General dined at the Porte, a dinner given to General Grant. Henry went to Yildiz and dined en trio with the Sultan and Said. The Sultan sent me by Henry a lovely jade cup and vase beautifully carved, the spout of the jug set in rubies and a cup of green jade with a gold setting. He said they were old and had been a long time in the Palace. Wednesday 6th March. Wrote for the post and instructed Jerry. I and Mme Joubert, Hill and Jerry all set to work to cut out garments etc., for the refugees and wounded. Hobart Pasha came to tea. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to call and stayed to dinner. He was in better spirits but very tired. He said he had been twice to the Palace and after dinner an ADC of the Sultan arrived with a letter from H.M. enveloped in a bit of new muslin requiring him to go once more to the Palace. Mr Smijth and Major de Winton dined with us also. Thursday 7th March. Hill took Jerry off to see a wedding in the church and in the afternoon again to buy a day gun. Played lawn tennis. Spent a long time with Mrs de Winton helping Hill to comb her beautiful hair which was fearfully untangled. Mr Sandison and Capt. Ricketts 2 dined with us. Friday 8"" March. Wrote a few letters to my mother and Henry. Mrs Joubert and I worked at cutting out for wounded and I played tennis a bit in the afternoon as it was a wet day and there was no going out. Made bandages in the evening. Saturday 9th March. Had a headache and could not get up all day till the evening. Today was our 9th wedding day. Managed to get up for dinner. Hobart Pasha dined with us and we made bandages in the evening. There was a violent thunderstorm in the morning. Hobart Pasha sent me two cows and two calves. Sunday 10th March. A very cold day. I went to church twice as usual. Walked with Henry in the garden in the afternoon till Zichy came when I had to go in. Prince Reuss called to thank to enquiries for his wife. There was a tremendous storm of snow in the afternoon, the sun shining all the while. Mr Bartlett and Capt. Chermside dined here besides the Embassy; made bandages in the evening.

1

An A D C to the Sultan.

2

British military observer at the front.

- 93 Monday 11th March. Cut out in the morning. Went out directly after lunch with the General to visit the cows and took a turn in the garden. The cows look ill and miserable. Went out in the chair to the Dorcas meeting. Went to Mrs Millingen and found no one so went on to Mrs Smythe where they were. Henry went to poor M. Kallerdjis' funeral who died suddenly yesterday from jaundice. He tells me it was a magnificent affair: all the great Greek high priests, the coffin open, the body in uniform and a dark orange colour from the jaundice he died of, poor man. Heard Jerry read. Lady Strangford, the Kemballs, Mr Dongall, Mr B. Kennett and Mr Jocelyn dined with us. Tuesday 12th March. [No entry], Wednesday 13th March. Wrote for the messenger and mail. General Dickson left to go and visit Admiral Commerall at Gallipoli. He went with Hobart Pasha who gave him a lift in the Suadiye. Admiral and Mrs Hornby came to stay with us. We invited some few people to dine but 2 of them failed us and we only had Mr Young . Thursday 14th March. It was a fine day and we wanted to show the Hornbys the Bosphorus so we got the Helicon and started at 11 o'clock from opposite the Dolmabah^e palace. We went about in the garden looking at the planting and improvement and then went on board again and lunched and afterwards went up to the Black Sea to show the Admiral the forts. When we got about 100 yards into the Black Sea we went back as there was a good deal of swell and heavy showers of rain. We got home a little after 5. The Admiral and Mrs Hornby dined with the Fawcetts. Friday 15th March. Mrs Hornby went to the Bazars I and Mrs Arthur cut out feraces in the workroom. At 7 1 went to the church practice and there was no one but Mr Gribble and Mrs Triandafilides 1 . We had to meet the Hornbys, the Kemballs, Capt. Stopford, Mr Jocelyn, Mr Sandison. Saturday 16th March. The Hornbys went to see the mosques as they return to the Fleet today. At 10.30, Henry and I set off to go to see the Sultan as he had sent last night to beg us to come. We went round to a back gate to the Malta Kiosque. We had to wait about 2 hours before Said Pasha came. He said they had been detained by a council of ministers over a tremendous discussion as to whether they should let the Russians embark their troops at Biiyiikdere which it was decided they should not. Soon after we had coffee in the diamond zarfo, the Sultan arrived and he conducted us up into the large centre hall and made me sit on the sofa next to him and Said interpreting talked a long time with Henry. He was very thankful to the Queen for not allowing the Duke of Edinburgh to land unless he would pay him a visit. The 1 Unidentified Greek woman.

- 94 Duke had wanted to go and see the Reuss and the Grand Duke Nicholas but the Queen had let him know he must first visit the Sultan and he had left for Malta in the Antelope last Wednesday. He talked to Henry about the wish of the Russians to embark at Biiyiikdere and consulted about sending troops there and to Kavak. He said he was determined not to see the Grand Duke unless he came in a private way. After some time he told Said to give us some lunch and we went down and got some caviar, cheese, rose sweets, small bits of cold mutton, chicken, dolmas and sherbet. After coffee we went out and H.M. showed us many rare stuffed birds he had there and some live canaries which he called "fraisé", he said they were a new sort with feathers like a ruff round their throats. He took us to walk in the garden and offered me some swans but we told him we had nowhere to keep them. He took us into a tiny summer house with two rooms he has just built and there we sat some time. He talked pleasantly and cheerfully, talked of the delights of a good housewife and said a good one was Paradise and a bad one the opposite and that husband and wife were one. About 4 we left to go home and he walked off with Said in another direction with a splendid horse led after him. Henry and I dined alone. In the evening a messenger arrived with a note from Said and 3 parcels done up in white muslin tied with green and red satin with a seal containing cakes, strawberries and French beans from the Sultan to me. Sunday 17th March. 1 did not go to church as at 12.30 I had to go off to Mme Fernandez. I found there Mme d'Ehrenhoff and Mrs Whitaker and we went on to the Galata Synagogue to see the wedding of 4 poor refugee Jewesses who had been ill treated by Bulgarians and who had fled from Kesanlik with their friends. After waiting some time the 4 brides arrived heralded by some small boys who sang in the yard in front of the synagogue. The weddings were done separately, the Rabbis howling out the prayers at the top of their voices. The girls were very countrified, looking very miserable and nervous and red in the face. Mme Fernandez gave them each a piece of £T 5 and a kiss after the ceremonies. Three of them married the men they were originally engaged to. Baron Hirsch gave £50 to each bridegroom and a bracelet worth £ to each bride. The ceremonies took so long I was not home till nearly 5 . 1 was very cold and had to lie down and have tea on my return and in fact had got a chill. We had the Barings, Messrs Sandison, Smijth, L. Gower, Kennedy, Ashburnham, Jocelyn and Lord George Montague to dinner. Monday 18th March. Mrs Arthur came and we cut out clothes for the refugees both before and after lunch. We intended going to the Dorcas meeting but 1 was taken again with a chill and had to lie down. Mrs Newman came to call also Mr Walpole who leaves tomorrow for England. Ahmed

- 95 Vefik Pasha came to call, stayed to dinner. He was in better spirits, did not stay very late. A hurricane rose at 10.30. Tuesday 19th March. Cut out flannel jackets. Went out in a chair to pay visits but was not out long as I found no one in. Mr Smijth, Mr Kennedy and Capt. Hale dined with us. Went to bed early. Wednesday 20lh March. Had to take some quinine as I felt rather CD and could not go out. The Pattersons called. Mrs Arthur Hanson called and we cut out together a little but she did not stay as she was going to Therapia with Lady Kemball to help her friend find a house. While away a telegram came ordering Sir Arnold back to England. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came and stopped to dinner. Capt. Hammond dined with us also Mr Kennedy. The Pasha was in tremendous spirits. He said, "Le Sultan me tue". He worries me so dreadfully and sends for me even 3 times a day". He said that he was trying to occupy his mind with model barracks he was having just put up near Yildiz kiosque. But he said the Sultan had strained his arm and was suffering a good deal. He said the Russians did not know what they wanted: they asked for things one day and retracted the next, "et moi je fais la bonne bête et j'ai l'air de ne rien comprendre". Thursday 21st March. Cut out in the morning and heard Jerry's lessons as usual. In the afternoon Henry and I drove down to the Khan. Met Mrs A. Hanson and went over to Scutari burying ground in her caique with her. It was a lovely day. Sergeant Lyne was at home. We went to see poor Julian's grave which was covered with turf and had a pretty border of flower. We went down to Haydarpaça to rejoin the caique and then returned to the Khan where the carriage awaited us. Found Mrs de Winton up on the sofa for the first time since she fell ill. The Parniss, Scudamore, Mrs Walker, Mr Curtiss 1 , Mr Maynard, Mr Bartlett, Mr Jocelyn, Mr Ashburnham, Major de Winton and Dr Dickson dined with us. Friday 22nd March. Was not at all well and kept in my room and took physic. Lady Kemball called to say adieu as they leave today for England. Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. I had to keep my bed and only got as far as the sofa from a violent chill. Wednesday 27th March. I got up and went to lie on the sofa in my boudoir and in the evening dined downstairs. Thursday 28lh March. Henry had a very bad cold and having taken a lot of stuff for it amongst which was ipepac woke very sick and had to breakfast in bed. As he was obliged to get up as Said Pasha wrote to say the Sultan wished to see him and begged him to come with the bearer of the note

1

Canon C.G. Curtiss of the Memorial Church.

- 96 (Osman Efendi 1 ) to the Sultan's mother's house so he had to get up and go. In the afternoon Ahmed Vefik Pasha called and was in pretty good spirits. We went to dine at the French Ambassador's, neither of us feeling very well. I was taken to dinner by M. Fournier and Prince Reuss sat next to me. Good food but poorly served. They were in great distress about their maid who is dangerously ill with smallpox. We did not stay late. Friday 29 th March |no entry], Saturday 30th March. Had such a headache I had to stay in bed all day and only got up in time for dinner. It was an oppressively hot day. Mr Sandison and Mr Kennedy dined. News that Lord Derby has resigned on account of the calling out of our reserves and of the militia. Sunday 31 s ' March. I was able to go to church. It was very hot indeed and sultry. In the afternoon I copied a secret despatch for Henry and then walked in the garden with him. Randolph Steward 2 called on me just before evening church to which I went. The Embassy and Lady Strangford dined. Poor Miss Guarracino is very ill of typhus and was prayed for in church. Mrs Baring was there and she was so overcome she had to go away before the sermon. Monday 1st April. I went out in the chair to Abdullah's to be photoed. Met the General and Mrs Arthur Hanson and she turned back with me. Mr Lewison Gower met me and both he and I were photoed. Mrs Arthur lunched with us. A very stifling hot day. At 3 1 went out again in the chair to see Princess Reuss and saw her for the first time since her confinement. She was on the sofa with the baby in a bassinette by her side. He soon began to howl so to her alarm and astonishment I took him up and quieted him till the English nurse came and carried him off. The Grand Duchess came in a lavender satin and rubies. I found out afterwards that she was expecting a visit from the Sultan and she leaves here tomorrow to return home. I went on to the Dorcas meeting at Mrs Smythe's. Mrs de Winton was today carried out in a chair into the garden as it was so warm and fine. Tuesday 2nd April. Directly after breakfast Henry went to the Sultan at his request. At 11 I set off to go to the Dolmabah?e Mosque where Mrs Arthur Hanson met me in her large caique and took me to Kandilli. It was fine but somewhat windy. I lunched with her and Mrs Henry Hanson was there and she took me to walk in the garden of old Mrs Hanson. I called on Mrs Charles Hanson and then returned and had tea at Mrs Arthur. The view was lovely and the sky and sea so blue and bright but as I went back in the caique there was rather too much swell. I got home about 5 and was glad to ' One of the Sultan's chamberlains. The Queen s messenger.

- 97 rest but I had to finish Henry's despatch before dinner. We had a dinner party of 17, the Fernandez', the Kosjeks 1 , the Vernonis, Mr Longworth 2 , M. Galvagna, Col. Fremantle 3 , M. Verhaeghe 4 , the Alishans. Lord Salisbury is the new minister for Foreign Affairs. Wednesday 3rd April. Wrote for the messenger and post. At luncheon, Admiral Hornby and Said Pasha came. I went out in the garden to sit and read. It was very fine but windy and dusty. Mr Jocelyn joined me and Mr Lewison Gower and the latter and 1 trimmed trees together. Mme Issaverdens and Mme Herbert called. Henry came and had tea in my boudoir. Major de Winton and Mr Smijth dined with us. Thursday 4th April. At 11 o'clock after hearing Jerry's lessons I and Henry started for the Dolmabahçe mosque where we found Admiral Stanhope with the Helicon boat and we met Mr Smijth and the General and took them with us and went on board the Helicon. We went up the Bosphorus and Henry landed at Prince Hasan to pay him a visit but did not find him in and returned on board. We meant to go and be landed at Therapia and some of the officers up from the Fleet were to go to the Black Sea. It was discovered that something had gone wrong with the engines and we could not move. We had to make fast to the buoy generally used by Prince Hasan's frigate near which we luckily were. Soon after Prince Hasan returned from a visit to his camp over at Beykoz and came on board and offered to send for his steam launch. We accepted and went down to lunch with the Captain and as soon as the steam launch arrived we went on to Therapia. Giovanni met us and I went over the house with him to make arrangements for the summer. We got back to the Helicon about 1/4 to 5 and finding she was not yet ready to move went on to town in the steam launch and got home about 5.30. Admiral Hornby came to stay with us and rode my horse to San Stefano. We had Captains Culme, Seymour (Téméraire), Fitzroy (Alexandra), Stopford (Helicon), Musgrave (Cockatrix), and Hale (Flamingo) to dinner. Played billiards in the evening. Mr Bartlett is ill. Friday 5th April. Henry went by caique to Hisar to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha who is ill in bed. Said Pasha and Mehmed Ali Pasha came to call and I saw them. They were in high spirits at Lord Salisbury's circular. Henry came home for lunch. Wrote for the post and sent photos home to Whitehall Review and Graphic. Fine day. Fournier came to all while we were at lunch. Mrs de Winton taken out in the chair and took her lunch in the garden I went out ' G. von Kosjek, secretary at the Austro-Hungarian embassy, .[.A. Longworth, British consul general at Belgrade. Col. A. Fremantle. 4

L. Verhaeghe de Naeyer, secretary at the Belgian legation.

- 98 about 4 and we had tea in the garden. The Verhaeghes called, also Mme Lebet. Walked in the garden with the Admiral. The telegrams rather more pacific. Mr Bartlett ill — either smallpox or typhoid. Saturday 6th April. It was a lovely day. The Admiral left us before lunch. Mrs de Winton came and sat in my boudoir in the morning. After luncheon I made Mrs de Winton go out in the garden. Major de Winton had taken away her invalid chair to take Mr Bartlett to the hospital so I had to make her walk down the first flight of stairs which she did leaning on me and Hill and having a rest on every landing. At the top of the large staircase we had the sedan chair and she was carried down into the garden and sat in an armchair an hour and we had tea. Henry joined us after his ride. As soon as I had got Mrs de Winton in 1 went to see after Mr Lewison Gower who was not well and gave him some tea in my boudoir. Billiards in the evening. I played with the General. Sunday 7th April. Expected the Henry Hansons to breakfast. They sent word they could not come. I went down to the Tophane Arsenal wharf to meet them in my sedan chair. They met me in their large caique and took me over to Kadikoy. It was a lovely morning. We started at 10 and arrived in time for the service at the small English church. Mr Lafontaine 1 and Mr Whitthall 2 met us at the landing place and we walked up straight to church. After service the J. Lafontaine asked us to lunch with them. We did so and then walked down to reembark and go to Tophane at 1/4 to 4. It was a lovely day and quite smooth in the caique. All the Embassy dined with us except Mr L. Gower who is still ill. Monday 8 th April. Mrs de Winton came and sat in my room in the morning. The Dorcas meeting was held here and as it was so fine we held it in the garden. Afterwards walked up and down with Henry. Had a great dinner party for the Turks. Rauf Pasha, Said Pasha (Minister of Marine), Muhtar Pasha 3 , Mehmed Ali Pasha, Osman Pasha 4 , Kadri Pasha 5 , Hasan Pasha and his ADC, Mr Zohrab 6 , Messrs Sandison and Marinich. Just before dinner an ADC came from the Sultan to fetch Said Pasha and he was in a great way at having to go without his dinner when it stuck him he could very well send the ADC to Yildiz to fetch him his carriage and in the meantime he could dine. This he did and we sat down to dinner without Osman Pasha who arrived late. ' Member of a famous Anglo-Levantine family. Member of a famous Anglo-Levantine family. Ahmed Muhtar Pasha, commander in chief of the Asian front 4

The defender of Plevna.

5

President of the Council of State.

® British consul in Erzurum.

- 9 9 He does not speak a word of French and looked rather gêné. He is a bronzed, stern looking man. He has a peculiarly long body and short legs — so that when sitting he looks very tall and is not really so. They smoked after dinner and later Muhtar and Mehmed Ali came in to tea and the latter was very entertaining. He said he could write novels from what he had heard from various Greek brigands he had taken in former days. Tuesday 9th April. Cut out feraces etc., for the fugitives in the morning. Mr Blunt and Mr Randolf Stewart dined. Wednesday 10th April. Had a headache and was unable to do anything all day but lie down on the bed. Mrs de Winton left for Marseilles being much better but still weak. It was an oppressively hot day. About 6 Henry came up and persuaded me to dress and go into the garden. I did so but my head ached and when I came in I went to bed. The underbutler Duckley got drunk and was noisy and abusive. Thursday 11th April. Mr Levison Gower was not well and came and sat in my boudoir. In the afternoon Henry and I went out in the Victoria. We called on Mme Fournier and found her at home and were going on to the Reuss when we met him in the street and Henry got out and I went on alone and saw the Princess. When I got home went and took tea in the garden with Mr Smijth and the General and Mr L. Gower. The weather changed and it got quite cold. Visitation from M. d'Ehrenhoff. We had to send Duckley out of the house as he had not been sober for 4 days. Friday 12th April. Woke with a headache so stayed in bed till lunch and wrote letters. Muhtar Pasha was calling when I went down. Drove with Henry to the Sweet Waters. Met the Grand Duke Nicholas driving in some of the Sultan's carriages We found a great many people at the Sweet Waters. It was chilly and it rained now and then. Got a lot of tall flowers in the marshy part like snow drops, snow flakes, several on one stalk. Had tea in Henry's room. Mr Sandison, Ashburham and Kennedy dined with us. Saturday 13th April. Instructed Jerry. Cut out, read, played tennis with Henry, Mr Smijth and Kennedy. Then took a turn in the garden. Hobart Pasha came having just arrived from Greece where he had been stopping the insurrection. Said Pasha came to call and we all had tea in Henry's study. Mr Smijth and Mr Leveson Gower dined with us. Sunday 14th April. The messenger arrived. I went to church morning and evening In the afternoon walked in the garden. The Embassy, and Hobart Pasha and Mr Baring dined with us. Monday 15th April. Mrs A. Hanson came and we cut out. Mrs Parniss also called. Mrs Arthur lunched with us. After lunch walked in the garden

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with Henry and at 4 went out in the chair to preside at the Dorcas meeting at the Lafontaines and came after 5. Tuesday 16th April. Went into the garden to make a sketch directly after breakfast and only stopped painting to come to lunch and for tea. It was a hot day. Mr Fawcett came to see Henry and told him that there was typhus among the refugees at Therapia and so we think we shall not be able to go so soon as next Tuesday. Mrs Crawford, Mrs and Miss Sarell and Mrs Edwards and Mrs van Millingen called. Hobart Pasha dined with us and I played billiard afterwards. Wednesday 17,h April. Wrote letters and painted. Capt. Stopford and Major de Winton lunched. Mrs Henry and Mrs Arthur Hanson called on us. Directly after lunch, Henry and I, the General and Mr Ashburnham and Major de Winton went on board the Helicon and started for izmit to pay a visit to the Fleet. We had a lovely day for our trip and leaving Constantinople at 3 got to Izmit about 7. The Admiral came to see us at once. We dined on board. Thursday 18"1 April. Breakfast at 9 . 1 began a sketch of the Cockatrice but could not do much. At 11, we went on shore to the town after Henry had paid his visit to the Admiral. We were received by the captain of the port and all the soldiers collected and presented arms and as we walked we were followed by half the population. After wandering through the bazaar which was small and dirty we walked up the hill to the Sultan's kiosque. We were glad to sit and rest there and look at the beautiful view with the fine ships lying at anchor below. We then returned on board and lunched. Afterwards the Admiral came and fetched me and Henry in his barge towed by the steam pinnace and took us down to a small kiosque of the Sultan further down. It was a favourite resort of Sultan Abdul Aziz and is a kind of wooden cottage very much out of repair. We walked up to the little copse behind it and looked for flowers but did not find many. Return to tea at the Helicon. Went to dine with the Admiral at 7 1/2 and sat between him and Capt. Grubble. Met the Governor of Izmit who is a nice little man. He told us there was a ministerial crisis at Constantinople and that Ahmed Vefik was out and Said Pasha. Henry was thinking of returning home tomorrow. He received a long cypher telegram which he said would probably decide it. The Governor was anxious to accompany us on board the Helicon to help us to decypher it! Henry quietly decided to remain till Saturday, Good Friday 19th April. I had not slept very well and at 4.30 A.M. was thoroughly aroused by hearing the sentry come to tell the Captain that a Turkish officer had come to see Mr Layard. Mr Ashburnham was called up and he told Henry that an ADC had arrived bringing him a letter from the Sultan which he would give to no one but himself. Henry had him into the

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cabin and said he would telegraph an answer and we all settled down to sleep again. At breakfast we heard that the Sultan had written to tell Henry of the change of ministry and to assure him that if he had anything confidential to say to him he would continue to do so through English Said and that the new ministry was not Russian. Mr Ashburham and I went to service on board the Alexandra which was a short one with very good singing and a sermon. At 1/4 to 1 we went in the Admiral's steam cutter and landed on the opposite coast to the town. There Mr Winslow met us with ponies and Henry, the General, Mr Winslow and I rode. Mr Ashburnham, Capt. Fitzroy, the Cavass and Jerry walked. We went about 4 miles to a river where we found Manning the old coxswain waiting with our lunch. We then fished and picked wild sage but caught no trout. Capt. Grubble had caught 2 wee trout before we arrived. We rode back by the head of the gulf to Izmit. We had to go along a horrid causeway which was in bad repair and trying to our ponies. My pony cast a shoe just as we got to the town. We got back to the Helicon at 6. Had tea and rested. Dined at 8. After dinner Henry went on deck and I and the General were sitting in the saloon when we felt a curious vibration and heard a rattling and thinking we had been run into by the Torch which was approaching I rushed up and was told it was an earthquake. It was a very severe shock and had not quite finished when I got on deck and one could hear houses falling in town. There was a great deal of shouting and moving of lights in the town and all the ships and presently Manning came to ask me from the Admiral whether I was alarmed and to say they had first believed it to be torpedoes. The Dutch gunboat who arrived here today sent to ask the Admiral how often they did these things and "to beg they would give him notice next time". The Dutchman had a bad recollection of having been fired into by a torpedo at Malta when he luckily sent an apology "for being in the way". This shock happened at 8 and at 10.10 we felt another slight shiver, a very small shock and then went to bed. The Torch brought letters for us. Saturday 20,h April. Before 5 the Helicon set off and brought us into Constantinople at 10 and we at once landed. The shock was also felt here and set all the bells ringing. Giovanni said the old housemaid "had run down in her shirt" and all had been alarmed. The Kashgar envoy came to lunch. Decorated the church and had tea in the garden. Sunday Easter 21st April. Mrs A. Hanson came to breakfast and we sang hymns together till churchtime. She went to the other church. Had tea in the garden and walked with Henry. Fournier called and asked us to dine with him on Saturday at Therapia as he goes down Thursday and we Saturday. Did not go to church in the evening as English Said Pasha called and sat and told us all about the ministerial change which seems to have been caused by the

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other Said Pasha as Ahmed Vefik said, one or the other must leave so the Sultan dismissed them all. Embassy, 20, at dinner. Mr Bartlett, older brother of our friend dined with us and we at once dubbed him the "Prig" and disliked him as he spouted Greek and snubbed us generally. Monday 22nd April. Having decided to wind up Ladies and Compassionate Fund I set to work to finish all the bits. Mrs Arthur came to take me out but it got wet and we could not go. I played tennis with Messrs Jocelyn and Kennedy and Lord George Montague. M. Fernandez called. We had a thunder storm about 7 o'clock. Smijth and Kennedy dined and Mr Jocelyn came after dinner and played billiards. Tuesday 23rd April. Cut out and work at sick and wounded things. Mr Gay, Mr Young, Col. Coope, Mr Black, Mr Jocelyn. Wednesday 24th April. Did not get up but wrote in bed. In afternoon got on the sofa and dined upstairs. Mme Paraiss came to see me. Pouring day. Thursday 25th April. Got up late. The Kashgar envoy came to lunch. Directly after Henry and I drove down to Dolmabah9e and got into the caique and went to Hisar to call on Ahmed Vefik Pasha whom we found in but he was not well enough to come down the stairs and he received us in a small room outside the harem where he was on a very broad divan with a raised thing in the middle covered with a cloth which served for a table and one could lie all round it. He was in flowing garments in Oriental style. After a while he took me into the harem and by signs and the help of one of the married daughters who understood a little French we managed to get on till the Pasha returned for me. We went on to Kuzguncuk to call on English Said Pasha. He had a splendid yali. The Reuss were leaving his door when we arrived and we found him at home in a curious kind of deshabillé — military red trousers, no waistcoat and a rough black pea jacket which might have met together before he grew so stout. He took me into the harem across a small garden. His wife was very handsome and pleasant looking and seemed intelligent. They had one little girl who they insisted upon pulling out of bed to see me. She came with red eyes complaining of headache and sore throat and when released returned to bed. Friday 26th April. Worked all the morning at pulling away things in the drawing room to prepare for leaving for Therapia tomorrow. While doing it Sadik Pasha the new Prime Minister called and sat there a little while. After lunch I went out in the chair to pay farewell visits to the colleagues, only found Princess Reuss at home. Dined alone with only the General. "Prig" Bartlett came in after dinner. Saturday 27th April. Mrs Arthur came up early and she and I laid work to look up all the Ladies Association things which she carried off to finish as I

- 103 did not want to recommence at Therapia. We only finished by lunch time. Henry went to see the Sultan in the morning. After a hasty lunch we went down to Therapia. It had poured in the morning and we had hesitated whether we would go or not, so the luggage was very late leaving. Henry and I drove down to the Ambassadors' stairs and found the boat was not there by some mistake so we sent a caique to fetch one and the captain's boat came, our boat having gone to the mosque. There was a strong south wind blowing but it was lovely going up the Bosphorus. We got up at 5 and were welcomed by the French ambassador. We could not unpack as the tug did not arrive till 7 but we had our clothes to dress for dinner and dined at the French Embassy. Sunday 28th April. Jerry and I unpacked and arranged my boudoir. After lunch M. Fouraier called to tell Henry General Todleben 1 had come and the Grand Duke was going away. Henry and I walked in the garden. We dined quite alone in my boudoir and sat in Henry's study after. Monday 29th April. Unpacked and finished getting in order. After lunch Henry and I went to call on the Fourniers and found them in. They took us to walk in their garden which is very pretty. The General arrived from Kandilli. Said Pasha and Miinir Bey called and we gave them some tea. Said told us he was reinstated in his office as Chamberlain at the Palace. The General, Mr Ashburnham and Mr Smijth dined with us. Tuesday 30th April. Arranged the drawing rooms. Read and worked and instructed Jerry. Mrs W. and Mrs A. Hanson came to call, walked in the garden with them and Henry. Mme Fournier and Mme Gaillard called late. Lord G. Montague, Capt. Stopford and Mr L. Gower dined with us and in the evening we played whist. Wednesday 1st May. Lovely weather. I got up early and wrote letters and wrote all the morning. Mrs Henry Hanson sent over the cow we have bought of them. Capt. Stopford came to fetch Mr Jocelyn, the General and me and took us over to Beykoz to take a walk in the Sultan's valley. We walked as far as the shooting kiosque and rested in the garden there surrounded by refugee children one of whom had had the smallpox at some not very remote time. We went on board the Helicon to have some tea before returning home. Major de Winton and Mr Kennedy dined. Thursday 2nd May. The fine weather continuing, Henry and I went to Hisar in the 3-oared caique to call on Ahmed Vefik Pasha and found him still in his room and not able to move off his couch. Found Dr. Dickson with him who had been to see me in the morning. While paying our visit the French ambassador called with 2 of his secretaries and we left him there. We went on to call on Prince and Princess Halim Pasha and found them at home. 1 went ' E.I. Todleben, the new Russian commander in chief

- 104 into the harem and the Princess was very attractive as she always is. The boys came and spoke English very prettily1. The General and Mr Smijth dined with us. Friday 3rd May. The Admiral arrived from Izmit on the Salamis breakfast. The Flamingo

to

also came up for orders so that at one moment we

had 3 gunboats opposite the Embassy. Unfortunately the weather was bad. Baker Pasha came down to dine and sleep. Mr Winslow and Mr Bartlett Sr. dined with us. Saturday 4th May. Still bad weather but in the afternoon there was a lull and I went out with the General to pay visits in the village. Captain Egerton and Stopford dined with us. Sunday 5th May. The weather became fearfully bad and there was no driving out. I was invited to tea on board the Salamis but I could not go and wondered how Fournier got over to see us. All the Embassy except Baring, the new secretary Mr Cartwright and Mr Bartlett dined with us. Monday 6th May. It was fine at last though cold. Capt. Stopford came in his boat to fetch me and took me on board the Salamis to see her and then we returned and walked in the garden till they called us and said the Admiral was leaving. He took Henry to town. I sent Jerry with Capt. Stopford to get "fum fum" as he was naughty. Having a headache I laid down most of the day and dawdled about in the garden. Henry returned late in the carriage. We dined with the Fournier, our kitchen fire being out of order. Tuesday 7th May. At lunch Henry told me he had heard that the Sultan was going to review the troops at Maslak so we ordered our horses and set off directly after lunch. As we neared the Sultan's mosque there we saw there was a guard round the garden and as we looked over the bridge we saw Said Pasha walking with some gentlemen. He called over to us to ask us to come in and we were going to excuse ourselves when the Sultan put up his head and Said said, "H.M. is here and begs you will come in", so we rode round to the gate and dismounted and were led by a Circassian ADC into the garden where H.M. was walking with his ministers. The Grand Vizier Sadik Pasha walked close and interpreted and H.M. complimented me on my riding and offered to send me a horse. Henry whispered to Sadik not to let him send me one as it would make a fuss among the newspaper correspondents. H.M. led us into the kiosque and made me sit by him on a sofa and Sadik and Safvet Pasha came in and sat with their toes turned in and holding their stomachs on 2 stools. Safvet with his habit of making grimaces looked like a naughty schoolboy who had just been caned and who still was writhing. We asked H.M. to let us go on as we must be home before dark. We mounted and went on to see the 1

Said Halim Pasha the future grand vizier and his brother Abbas Halim Pasha.

- 105 camp and then turned home. We met Fuad Pasha, the commander in chief who invited us to dismount and have coffee and hear the band but we excused ourselves and said we would come another time expressly. Messrs Smijth, Ashburham and the General dined with us. Wednesday 8 lh May. Wrote busily all the morning for the mail. Mr Smijth and Levison Gower went off to England. Walked in the garden where Fournier joined us. Henry and I dined quite alone (a wonder)! Thursday 9"' May. Was in the garden all the morning directing the sailor from the Helicon who came to paint the garden seats and also Guiseppe the gardener who was making alterations in the trellis work on the guard's cottage. Said Pasha called just after luncheon and brought me some photos from the Sultan of his children and nephews. We ordered the horses at 3 and as we were starting the Persian minister called so I went out without Henry with the General, Mr Kennedy, and Capt. McCalmount. We went by the upper road to the aqueduct but the ride was spoiled by the sight of dead cattle which lay in all directions and which had belonged to the poor refugees. We returned by the Buyukdere road which is all cut up by the passage of artillery. When we got home we found Prince and Princess Reuss calling, having come en mouche. Gave them tea. Messr. Kennedy, Ashburham, Cartwright and Lord Montague dined. In the evening we played whist. Friday 10th May. Was out all the morning. Capt. Stopford came to mark out the tennis ground. M. and Mme Caratheodory came to lunch and after walked in the garden. M. Nelidoff and M. Onou 1 called. Mmes Camara and Mongeri called. Played tennis with Messrs Jocelyn, Ashenburnham and Kennedy till it came on to rain and we were driven in. Messrs Sandison, Jocelyn, and Kennedy dined. Saturday 11th May. Settled about hanging pictures in drawing rooms. The messenger arrived just before Henry, the General and I set off to go to Bebek in the Helicon steam launch to lunch with Mokhsin Khan the Persian Minister (now to be raised to ambassador). We got there about 11.30. Met there Riza Bey 2 and the Persian consul at Smyrna and a Persian one-eyed gentleman whom Mokhsin said was Sir Arnold Kemball's colleague about the Persian boundaries. We waited some time till we were summoned to breakfast. We had a Persian meal consisting of chillaw and pillaw besides one or two European dishes. We finished up with water melon and then went to the drawing room to coffee. After a time Mokhsin took me to the Harem to see his wife and little girl. During the visit he kept repeating to me, "mais ma femme devient colossale !" The child, about 3 years old, very sharp and rather 1

2

Respectively counsellor and dragoman at the Russian Embassy. Yusuf Riza Bey, former Ottoman ambassador at Teheran.

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pretty. After my visit we took a walk to the top of the garden which is lovely but a tremendous ascent at the top. We came to a kiosque on a terrace where we sat and had tea and the gentlemen nargilehs and [illegible word]. The property was that of Ali Pasha and is a magnificent one. Mokhsin Khan is in hopes that the Shah will buy it for the Embassy. On leaving him we went to call on Ahmed Vefik whom we found better but still upstairs. I went into the harem but only saw his wife and eldest daughter, the rest being ill. We had to leave him and get home as quick as we could. Henry had just time on his return to get dressed and to go off to dine with the Sultan at Yildiz Kiosque, taking with him Mr Jocelyn, General Dickson, Messrs Baring and Sandison. I had tea in my room and read all the evening. Henry returned after 12 o'clock. This dinner was an official one given to Henry at which all the ministers, Mehmed Ali, Osman, Baker Pashas were present. Sunday 12th May. Mr Gribble came down to do the service here. I played the harmonium. The Helicon sailors came. Mr Kennedy read the lessons. Count Zichy came up from town in his gunboat and lunched with us. Mrs A Hanson sent up her 2 little daughters who also lunched with us and the General and Mr Ashburnham. It was a very warm day with a south wind. Went up to the stables to see the ducklings Mrs Arthur sent me up with the hen who had just hatched. There are 7 of them. We sat in the grove and had tea there. Gave the children their tea. Mr Woodford (Messenger) called on me. I had to go to bed about 7 o'clock having such a violent headache. Monday 13"1 May. Henry went to town in the steam launch to breakfast with Zichy, to go to the Porte and to Prince Reuss to congratulate him on the escape from assassination of the Emperor William. I remained at home and painted all the morning till lunch. Mr Ashburnham lunched with me. After lunch Mr Thompson came for orders. I went up to the stables to see the ducklings and cows. One duckling is dead. At 4 1 went out to call on Mme Fournier and on Mrs Blunt and Mrs Fawcett. Found the first and last in. Came home and Mme Fournier and Mile came and sat in the grove and had tea and Henry and Messrs Ashenburnham and Cartwright played 2 games of lawn tennis. Messrs Ashenburnham and Cartwright dined with us. Sang in the evening. Tuesday 14th May. Stormy night and chilly day so that we had to light fires. Wrote and practiced in the morning. Expected Mrs A. Hanson but she did not come. Mr and Mrs Donald called. Mr Jocelyn, Lord George, Mr Kennedy and Mr Woodford dined with us. Wednesday 15th May. Still chilly and unsettled. Went in garden after breakfast with Henry, then wrote for the post and heard Jerry's lessons till

- 107 lunch. Riza Bey called. Mme Yaver Pasha 1 called and M. Issaverdens. Had tea out of door. Played tennis with Henry. Mr Jocelyn and Capt. Stopford, Mr and Mrs Baring and Mr Sandison dined. Telegrams from England and elsewhere very warlike today. Thursday 16th May. Hill went to town to pack things in camphor. 1 and Jerry went to feed the ducklings. Found one dead. Stayed out a long time watching the fire practice and talking to Capt. Woods who was waiting to see Henry. Ct Zichy came from town to see him. Mrs A. Hanson came to luncheon and also Capt. Helbert the Times correspondent with the Russians. Went up to feed the ducks again after lunch. Mrs H. Hanson came. She and I sang together. Mme Issaverdens, M. Dolez and Baron Galvagna called. We had tea in the grove and Mr H. Hanson joined his wife from town. Mr Jocelyn, Capt. Stopford, Henry and I played lawn tennis till near dinner time. The Fourniers, Jocelyn, Ashenburnham and Capt. Stopford dined with us. In the evening Henry was constantly called out to see people and amongst those who came was an ADC from the Sultan. After M. Fouraier had left Henry sent to call him back to talk to him and after all were gone he told me the Russians were said to be advancing on Constantinople. Friday 17th May. Alarm about the advance of the Russians still continues as they have all left San Stefano and moved to a nearer position on the heights. Henry went to town in the mouche. Dr Dickson came to see me and told me that the Russians were expected to take possession of Biiyiikdere this afternoon. Mr Baring and Mr Kennett called and said Mr Fawcett had had alarming news from Baker Pasha. We played lawn tennis with Capt. Stopford. When Henry returned from town Mr Fawcett came to tell him that he had heard from Baker Pasha saying he was expecting to be attacked by the Russians. Lord George Montague, Mr Kennett, Ashenburnham and Sandison dined. Saturday 18th May. Got up late having rather a headache. The Antelope arrived from Malta. The panic about the Russians is subsiding and is explained as being merely a sanitary precaution. After lunch Henry and I drove in the victoria on the road to Belgrade but it was so cut up that we had to turn back halfway and so we drove into Biiyiikdere where we saw 2 great Russian stores covered with sackcloth. As we passed the gypsies' tents near Biiyiikdere we saw a woman in a hut seated on the ground beside what was evidently a corpse, wailing and rocking herself backwards and forwards. Capts Stopford and Wingfield and Lord G. Montague dined with us. Just as we were going to bed Major de Winton turned up having returned from Izmit.

1

Wife of the Ottoman Armenian minister of post and telegraphs.

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Sunday 19"1 May. The Sultan sent for Henry to go to Yildiz to see him. Mr Gribble came and we had service and had the 2 ships' crews. M. Condouriotis called, also Dr Mavroyeny and his son 1 . Sat in the grove and when Henry returned about 4 we had tea there. All the Embassy except Barings, Mr Edwards, Miss Lucas, Mr Chermside, Capt. McCalmont dined with us. Hot day. Monday 20th May. Went off in the Antelope mouche at 10 with Henry and Jerry and he dropped us at Kandilli and I went to see Mrs Arthur Hanson. Saw Mr Bartlett for the first time since his illness. He looks well but walks with a stick on account of rheumatic legs. After lunch we went up to the Henry Hanson and played lawn tennis. Mr Henry, Mrs Arthur, Mr Seymour and myself and then had tea in the arbour. At 4 they came to tell me that the mouche had come to fetch me. Instead of going over to Ahmed Vefik's as I expected to have to do, I found Henry in the mouche and we went home. He said Ahmed Vefik had moved up to his country house and he could not go up the hill, that there had been a revolution in town and that a lot of refugees had attacked the Sultan's Palace and had wanted to proclaim Sultan Murad and that no boats were allowed to approach the Palace. There were soon all kind of wonderful stories and a panic but when Mr Sandison came he said all was quiet and it turned out it had been a certain Ali Suavi at the head of 200 refugees who did not even know what they were doing had gone to C l r a i a n Palace and asked to see the Sultan and on the sentinel refusing to let them in they fired, killed the sentinel and got into the gardens. There they proclaimed Murad Sultan and the guard coming in upon them a fight ensued and about 300 killed and wounded, all the insurgents being armed with revolvers. The rest were taken prisoners. Capt. Stopford, Mr Ashenburnham, Kennett, Sandison dined with us. Fine hot summer day. Tuesday 21st May. It was very hot. Practiced and wrote. After lunch Henry and I went in the 3-oared to Hisar to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha and found he had moved to his upper summer house but he was still very suffering. While we were there little Mehmed Bey came and was full of wonderful stories about the Ali Suavi affair. We had a lovely row and got back about 6.30. Major de Winton, Lord George Montague, Mr Sandison dined with us. Wednesday 22nd May. Wrote for messenger and hung up pictures in my boudoir. Excessively hot day. Sat in the grove all the afternoon. Mrs Henry and Mrs Arthur Hanson came from Kandilli and later Mr Henry

' Dr Sp. Mavroygni Pasha, the Ottoman Greek private physician to the Sultan and his son Alexandre an official of the foreign ministry

- 109 Hanson, Mr Black and Mr Eyres 1 . We had a good deal of tennis and afterwards walked up to the top of the garden. The H. Hansons and 2 students dined and slept here and in the evening we tried over glees which were not very successful. Thursday 23rd May. Mr Hanson, Mr Eyres and Mr Black went away in the early steamer. Mrs Hanson stayed till 12 o'clock and then returned to Kandilli. Henry and I drove to Maslak in the afternoon in the new carriage to try it. Back at 5. Tea in the grove. About 11 A.M. the wind suddenly changed from S. to N. and it became quite cool. Mrs W. Hanson came to call and played lawn tennis. Henry and I dined at the French Embassy at a diner in honour of Prince Lobanoff, the new Russian Ambassador. All the gentlemen of the Corps Diplomatique were there (the heads) except the Dutchman. The Reuss were there. Fournier took me in and I sat between him and Lobanoff. We had the celebrated Sèvres dessert set and Fournier made me a present of one of them. Friday 24th May. Queen's birthday. Prince and Princess Reuss, Countess Stolberg 2 and Mile Einsiedel and Prince Lobanoff came to luncheon. It was a cold day and a wet mist kept trying to come up from the Black Sea. By 4 o'clock it succeeded in enveloping entirely and it became very chilly. Baron Galvagna and the French Ambassador and Dr Bartoletti 3 and General Mehmed Ali and Zarifi came to call and the Clifton 4 s from Kandilli and the Fawcetts so although I went out intending to play tennis I could not do so but took Fournier round the rose walk and then had to come in. Mssrs Ashenburnham and Kennett dined with us. Saturday 25th May. We lunched in the breakfast room but Henry was waiting in his uniform for the messengers from the Sultan who were to come to congratulate on the Queen's birthday. As they had not come at 2 he was obliged to dress and go off to Yildiz Kiosk in the carriage as he had something very important to say for the Sultan. Mr Ashenburham and Lord George Montague received the deputation when they turned up which was about 3.30, their mouche having broken down and so obliged to go back and get into carriages. They bought their uniforms with them and put them on at the front door. We played tennis and had tea in the grove. Henry returned about 6. All the morning I worked at pasting in scraps into the book. There was the usual Queen's dinner at 7.30 of 30 people. I dined alone. In the evening there was a party and dancing. All over at 12. Mr Gribble slept here. ' The last two were British merchants settled in Constantinople. ^ Wife of the German ambassador at Vienna. ^ The Italian bora head of the Ottoman sanitary administration. 4

An Anglo-Levantine family.

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Sunday 26" May. Henry went to town to see Sadik Pasha in the Antelope. He started at 9.15 and did not return till about 3. We had service in the corridor but very small congregation and I had rather hard work with the singing and playing the harmonium. Mr A. Hanson and Mr Bartlett came in the middle of the sermon. It was very hot day and I went and read in the grove till luncheon. Mr Gribble, Ashenburnham and the General lunched with me. At 5 went into the grove again with Henry and had tea there and then walked up and down with Henry who was getting very anxious at not receiving a telegram from Mr Sandison. We watched all the last §irkets J come in in hopes Mr Sandison would come by them. Henry said everything depended on his sending home an answer this evening to England. At last Mr Sandison would not come and I had to dress for dinner. About 8 he turned up on horseback having come straight from Yildiz as hard as he could and we sat down to dinner about 8.15. Monday 27th May. Mr Gribble returned to town. Tuesday 28th May. We breakfasted at 8 and Henry set off directly after to drive to Yildiz to see the Sultan but before long he returned having met an ADC on the road with a message from H.M. begging him to put off till tomorrow as he was ill. Capt. Stopford came to see us and stopped to luncheon. In the afternoon we played tennis with Lord George, Mssrs Kenneth and Cartwright. Zichy came to see Henry. Sadik Pasha was out and Mehmed Ru§tii reinstated as Grand Vizier. Wednesday 29th May. I had such a bad headache that I was obliged to lie down all day. Henry went out riding. During his absence came a note from Said Pasha begging Henry to go at once to Yildiz to see the Sultan so he set off about 6.30 as soon as he returned from his ride. I got up for dinner. Mr Bartlett came to stay a few days with us. Mr Kennedy and Lord George dined with us. Baron Biegeleben came in after dinner. Henry did not return till after 12 o'clock. He said he saw the Sultan in his harem, found him very ill and nervous and full of fancies and feared he was breaking down. Thursday 30th May. At 5.30 A.M. we were woken up by a note from the Sultan for Henry begging him and me to go and save him as his life was threatened. Henry wrote and begged him to be calmed and to send for Said and Dr Mavroyeni to talk it over. It is evident that the poor man is off his head. Copied for Henry. Very hot day. Mrs A. Hanson came to call just as just as we had our luncheon. At 3 Henry and I went off to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha in the steam cutter. Found him better but still complaining. He got better after a time and at last went out into his garden with us for the first time since his illness. On the way down to our boat we met the Fourniers going up ' Boats of the §irket-i Hayriye Navigation Company plying the Bosphorus.

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to see him. When we got home we found Dr Mavroyeni and his daughter had been to call and would come back. They came about 6.30 and as it was late we asked them to stop and dine. The Doctor said he must return to H.M. at Yildiz but he left his daughter and after dinner we sent her to her aunt Mme Calliady's. Mr Cartwright and Col. Stopford dined and Major de Winton. Friday 31st May. Wrote all the morning for Henry and only finished a short time before lunch. Sang a little with Mr Bartlett. After lunch we had some great tennis matches. Fournier came to see us play. Capt. and Mrs Higginson1 called. The Barings and Major de Winton dined. Saturday 1st June. Henry went to town in the morning directly after breakfast at 8.30. The messenger arrived from England. I instructed Jerry and had a fight with him over his spelling. Lunch with the General and Mr Ashenburham. Mr Bartlett had gone to town. Henry returned about 4. We had tea in the grove and played tennis. Henry was anxious about the Sultan as he had not gone to the mosque yesterday. He said that all the ministers had been sent for to the Palace and was longing to know what was going on; when Mr Sandison returned he told him that H.M. was much better, had received the Ministers and was quite cheerful. Mr Ashenburnham and Mr Cartwright dined with us. Sunday 2nd June. Church at 10.30. Capt. McCalmont played the organ and I led the singing. A very hot day. Nicolaki Pasha and Zichy were at lunch with us. At 3 we went out in the big caique with the Fourniers, the General and Mr Cartwright. Went to Çubuklu and had coffee, nargileh and rahat locum. We then went on and landed at Sultaniye where there was a Greek fête going on. We got home at 5.30, very exhausted from the heat. The Embassy and Mr Chermside and Capt. MacCalmont dined. Mr Malet, the new first secretary arrived just after dinner from Athens. Monday 3rd June. At 7.30 A.M. Fournier came to fetch me to go for a picnic with them. We were sometime getting on board the Petrel and had at last to go over to Beykoz and there were nearly an hour before she could be got off as something had happened to the engines. It was blowing hard and raining a little when we started. We got to Prinkipo about 10 and having had previously a little tea and cake, landed. There were carriages and donkey for hire. The donkey people rushed at us and nearly smothered us with their efforts to get us to hire them so Mme Fournier and I jumped into a carriage and at last the others managed to mount. We drove to the Greek convent of St George. About half way I found that a donkey had followed for me so I got out of the carriage and rode. At the convent we took "locum" and water and saw the old pretty convent which was like a barn with a dirty smoky old ' Unable to identify.

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church and then we rode off and returned to our boat by another road so that we rode round the island. Luckily though fine there was no sun. As soon as we got on board (about 2) we lunched in a place rigged up on deck and had a splendid repast which lasted an hour and then set off home where we arrived at about 6.30. Henry came home from town in the steam cutter at the same time and as we landed gave us the news that the Emperor of Germany had again been shot at and had been wounded in the arm and head. As he is 81 it is feared it may go hard with him. Mr Sandison and Mr Malet dined with us. Tuesday 4lh June. Wrote long letters. Directly after lunch went out with Henry in the steam launch. As we passed the Sweet Waters we saw a lot of houses burning a dreadful large fire. Henry left me at Nazli Hanim. She was gone out but Miss Meyrick was in and I sat with her and had tea till Henry came back to fetch me. He came late having been at Yildiz. We only got home in time for dinner. Mr Geary (a friend of Mr Rassam's) and Mr Bratiano 1 dined with us and Mr Malet and Mr Kennedy and Major de Winton. Mr Bratiano slept here. Wednesday 5th June. Wrote for Henry all the morning. Sadik Pasha came up to see Henry and to tell him that he was going to the Congress and the invitation had been received. At 4 I and the General went off to pay some visits in the village and found every one at home. Mme Zarifi, Mme Herbert, Mrs Fawcett, Mme Yaver and Mme Toucas 2 . We did not get home till 6 when we found every one at the tennis court and Admiral Hornby and Mr Winslow and we had tea and played tennis till dinner time. Kennett and Ashburnham dined. The Helicon went off to fetch the Duke of Cambridge from Naples and take him to Malta. Tuesday 6th June. Henry went to town in the mouche. The Admiral and Mr Winslow went off to stay with Baker Pasha at the camp where he is. Mrs Arthur Hanson came to call with Mrs H. Guarracino. At 4 I had to dress and at 5.30 we went off in the Antelope taking with us Prince Lobanoff, W. Dolez, Mme Hubert, M. Condouriotis, Mr Galvagna and the Fourniers. The current was so strong we had some difficulty in starting. We got happily to Zychy's in the broad daylight. Had a carriage to meet us and took Fournier and Lobanoff in our carriage. At the bottom of the hill leading to the Austrian Embassy, a very steep bit, Fournier insisted upon getting out and walking. His ladies came in chair. We had all the heads of mission except d'Ehrenhoff at dinner, Mme d'Ehrenhoff being very ill again. After the usual dinner with servants arranged in gorgeous Hungarian costumes we went and sat in the garden which was lighted up with lanterns and there we had coffee, the ' D. Bratiano the Romanian minister at Constantinople.

2

Unable to identify.

- 113 gentlemen smoked and the ladies chatted until about 10 when we left and went to Tophane to find our boats and return to the Antelope. There was a piano in the deck cabin and as I sang Spanish songs and Galvagna attempted to sing and then Mile Fournier feebly tried piano duets with me, so we passed the time till we arrived home and parted. Friday 7th June. Henry went to town in the mouche after the messenger had gone off. It began to blow and rain and a storm threatened. Saturday 8 th June. I had such a headache I could not get up. The gale was tremendous. About 3 o'clock as I slept a tremendous noise roused me. 1 found the outside shutters had got loose and broken the frame of glass near my head. I had to get up and move into another room. The Admiral and Mr Winslow returned. I was not well enough to get up for dinner. Telegram from Arthur congratulating on the G.C.B. so I supposed Henry is gazetted. Sunday 9'h June. Storm still rages. No service. Better and up but have still a little fever. Sang hymns with Jerry and read. In the afternoon the weather lifted a little and we walked in the garden among the debris of roses and leaves broken by the storm. Embassy dined with us. Monday 10th June. Henry went to town in the mouche. Mrs A. Hanson came up to luncheon and then she went with the General to see the refugees and I went to call on Mme Dolez. We then played a game of tennis. After Mrs Hanson and I called on Mme Parniss and then I found Mme Issaverdens at home. I went home and found Ct Zichy had arrived to dine and sleep. We played tennis and had tea. Had a dinner party of 19 in honour of Prince Lobanoff — the Reuss, Fourniers, the Comte (who slept here) Galvagna, Maynard, Onou, the Dolez. In the evening we had a party and dance which did not last later than 12. Had a long letter from Hobart Pasha written from Hatfield. Tuesday 11"1 June. Comte left before and Zichy after breakfast. I wrote letters and at 3.30 had to dress to go to dine with the Sultan at Yildiz. We left home a little after 4 and drove in the landau reaching the Palace a little before 6. We were shown into a room where a chamberlain received us and Mr Sandison at once joined us and presently Mttnir Bey, the chief dragoman and then Mr Zarifi came in. Zarifi did not stop but said he had just been with the Sultan who had left him to go into the Harem. As soon as the Sultan sent for us we went upstairs and sat in a small room and had a long talk, Miinir Bey and Mr Sandison interpreting. There was not the least trace of H.M.'s late nervousness and after a long talk he invited us to go and walk with him in the garden. As we were going down the steps into the garden, the Sultan stopped and told Miinir Bey to tell me that he was going to found an order for Ladies and he wanted to give me the first as a proof of his reconnaissance for what I

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had done for the refugees and wounded. I thanked him but did not express my doubts of being allowed to accept it by the Government. He took us to see his birds in a large aviary where were a quantity of birds and parrots which had that morning arrived from India and had been sent him by the Turkish consul in Bombay. He begged me to choose some and at last as he insisted I chose 2 parrots and some waxbills and canaries which H.M. gave orders to be sent tomorrow. We then went over a small suspension bridge which an engineer had just put up over the lake and then came round to the Palace again. We went upstairs to a small room where I took off my hat and we waited till diner. We sat down just at 8 o'clock to dinner in one of the recesses of the great hall with the 4 Sultans' portraits. I sat on H.M.'s right, Henry on his left. On my right Miinir Bey, on Henry's left the first secretary Ali Pasha. Opposite H.M. sat Osman Pasha (the Plevna hero) the new chamberlain and two ministers at either side of him and Mr Sandison next Miinir Bey. I forgot who was next Ali Pasha but I think the old chamberlain who first received us. We had a mixture of Frankish and Turkish cooking. The was a sweet dish made of strawberries which was excellent. There were artichokes done in oil which were less so though not bad. After dinner the Sultan took us into the end drawing room, himself pulled down the blinds of the window behind the on which he sat and made me sit. We sat talking, he and Henry smoking cigarettes with MUnir Bey interpreting till 9.30 when we asked leave to go home. It was moonlit and we had a lovely drive home. We had an escort until we passed the camps and so were not stopped more than an instant as we went home. Wednesday 12,h June. At 2 o'clock, Princess Nazli came to see me. The messenger left. In the morning I wrote for Henry. The Princess stayed with me till after 5. Just as she was leaving a caique arrived from the Sultan with the birds he promised me viz, a grey Polly, a white cockatoo and 3 cages with canaries and small birds. Then came an ADC on horseback from the Sultan and presently up dashed an 8-oared caique with a large carpet sent me also from H.M. The parrot and cockatoo both talk. Thursday 13th June. Did not get up till just lunchtime. Dr Long lunched with us. Halim Pasha came to call. We went to sit in the grove, Henry played tennis; at 6 he and I went out in the 3-oared caique to leave cards at Buyiikdere. Met Mme Condouriotis in her caique. We went round by Beykoz and then home just before dinner. Mr Malet and Mr Kennedy dined with us. Friday 14th June. 1 sent Hill to town to buy bird cages. A post came in and another went out for which I wrote. Mrs A. Hanson came to lunch. In the middle of lunch up came the messenger in the Falcon. I received my 2 gowns from Paris by him. Henry rode, I sat out in the tennis ground and watched the

- 115 play. The General and Mr Chermside came to dinner when it was just over, having been to Korfez with Mrs A. Hanson. I sang in the evening. Saturday 15th June. We called down to Mrs Joubert who was ill with violent colic. Gave her clorodyne and left her better. Went up to look after the farm yard. Sat in the tennis ground while Henry played and at 6 went out with him in the 3-oared caique to Yenikoy to pay visits. We found Mme Lebet in and sat with her a little and then got home just in time for dinner. Mr Ashenburnham, Lord George and Mr Cartwright dined with us and Mr Gribble who came to stay till tomorrow. Sunday 16th June. Had service in the Orangery. I played the organ and was supported by Mssrs Chermside and Cartwright for the singing. We had a large congregation and it was very hot. After lunch we sat in the grove (Henry and I) and had tea there. Prince Lobanoff called. At 5 we went out in the large caique taking Mme Dolez, Mme Fournier, the General and Mr Malet and went up to the mouth of the Black Sea. It was very nice and calm. All the way there and back there was a continuous uninterrupted flight of "departed souls" for about half an hour going towards the Black Sea. We got home just about 7.30 in time to dress for dinner Capt. Wingfield and Capt. MacCalmont and Mr Horace Guarracino dined (the latter slept here) besides the Embassy. Sat in the corridor and the garden after dinner. It was very hot. There was a moon and lots of fireflies and a good deal of summer lightening. Monday 171'1 June. Odessa post brought me a good many letters. Took Mr Guarracino after breakfast to see the cows. It was exceptionally hot. Henry went to see Safvet Pasha in the launch. I painted all the morning and again after lunch till nearly 5. Went out and played lawn tennis with Ashenburnham, Kennedy and Cartwright. Jacoub Khan came to pay Henry a visit. Mssrs Richards and Alvares (student dragomans) came to dine and sleep. Mr Kennedy and Mr Malet also dined. A few men came in the evening. Tuesday 18th June. Wrote letters. Mrs A. Hanson came to luncheon and afterwards she and I made up the parcels of embroideries to send to England to be sold for the refugees. Then went out and played tennis with all the secretaries. Mme and Mile Fournier joined us there. We played till 7. Practised guitar for half an hour. Mssrs Ashenburnham, Cartwright, Kennedy and Captain Player the messenger dined. Afterwards we walked in the garden to see the fireflies of which there were a great many. Wednesday 19th June. Bathed for the first time this year at 7 o'clock. Wrote for mail and copied for Henry. Made Jerry do his lessons. Zichy came to luncheon. After painted till 4 when went out riding with Henry and Mr Kennedy through the forest of Belgrade to the village. Dismounted and had coffee and nargilehs and then rode home by the road. In the forest we met

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several drill parties of soldiers from the camps and it added greatly to the scene, the bugle calls, groups of men seated about with here and there a horse waiting. Mr Sandison and the General were the only ones at dinner with us. Thursday 20th June. Went to have a dip before breakfast but had a headache which grew worse as the day went on and I had to lie on the sofa all day. Dr Dickson came to see me and stayed to luncheon with the others. The Admiral also came up from Prinkipo where the Fleet now is and he came and sat with me a little. He played tennis and then left before dinner. I dined in my boudoir and went early to bed. Friday 21st June. Took a turn after breakfast with Henry in the garden. Wrote for post. Sent by Capt. McCalmont a parcel of embroideries from the Women's Working Society to Lady Burdett Coutts. After lunch went and sat in the grove with Henry. M. Onou called and later the 2 Mesdames Caratheodory and Dr Patterson. We played tennis with Mr Kennedy and Mr Cartwright. Mr Kennedy and Ashenburnham dined and Sandison. We had a tremendous thunderstorm in the evening. Saturday 22nd June. Fine again but not sunny. Henry went to see Safvet Pasha in mouche. Messenger arrived and brought me parcels from Susan Hambro 1 . M. Lebet called just after breakfast. Mr Rassam arrived from Niniveh where he has been excavating for the British Museum. He breakfasted and went to town. Henry returned to lunch. The Reuss who leave for Vienna on Friday came to take leave of us. Played tennis with Henry, Mr Malet, Ashenburnham and Lord George. Practised guitar. Mr Beaman (student dragoman) came to dine and sleep. Sunday 23rd June. No service, Mr Gribble ill. Read and taught Jerry. Mr Ashenburham came to say he was going to start for England tomorrow as he had news of his father's death. Refik Bey, Ahmed Vefik's son called and brought me some pigeons sent me by his father from Brusa. Zichy and Mr Deveaux 2 called. There being a Court mourning for King of Hannover we put off tomorrow's party. Had tea in the grove with Henry, Mr Rassam, and Mr Malet. The Embassy except Ashenburnham, Mr Chermside and 2 French secretaries Donaut and Dumaine also dined. Monday 24"1 June. Instructed Jerry and painted his portrait. The Admiral. Mr Winslow and Capt. Hunt Grabble came to luncheon. In the afternoon we went and sat in the grove and played tennis. Had some first rate games. Capt. Wingfield dined with us. Sang in the evening.

1 A childhood friend of Enid Layard. 2

E. Deveaux, director of the Banque Impériale Ottomane.

- 117 Tuesday 25th June. Painted Jerry's portrait while he did his lessons. Baker Pasha came to luncheon. M. Fournier and M. Binet 1 came and had a conference with Henry and Mr Rassam on the Christians in the East. I went with the Admiral and Mr Winslow in their boat over to Buyiikdere to call on Mme Coronis 2 who was not at home. On my return home found Mrs Henry Hanson and Helda. We played tennis till past 6 and Mr H. Hanson joined us. I and Helda took a walk all around the garden. There was a great row between Jerry and the Cavass and I had to send Jerry off to prison on board the Antelope. Capt. Patterson of Salamis and Mr Kirkness dined with us. Wednesday 26lh June. In the morning I wrote for the post and messenger. At 1 o'clock we went on board the Antelope with the Admiral, Mr Baring and Mr Kennedy to town, drove to the Embassy to see the things Mr Rassam had brought from Niniveh. They were opened and many things were found to be smashed. Henry went off to poor Mme d'Ehrenhoff's funeral. I went out with the Admiral to call on Princess Reuss whom we did not find in and then to do some shopping. Met Henry coming away from the funeral and was sorry to find the ladies had gone to it and I ought to have done the same. On returning to the Embassy we went out in the garden and sat there. Mr Marinich came to see Henry on business and then Mr Gribble. Hill brought us some tea to the garden. Dressed and went to dinner with Ct Zichy, a dinner given to the Reuss who leave on Friday for their new post at Vienna. We assemble before dinner in the garden. General Todleben and Prince Imeritinsky 3 were also there. I sat between Zichy and Reuss. Zichy made a speech to "toaster" the Reuss who answered shortly. After dinner we sat in the garden and I had a long talk to the Spanish Minister about Madrid. Heard from him that the young Queen of Spain who was said yesterday to be dying from effects of a miscarriage is better. We returned home in the Antelope reaching at about 1/4 to 12. Thursday 27lh June. The Admiral and Mr Winslow left to return to the Fleet soon after breakfast. I sent the cavass to fetch Jerry home from the Antelope and he returned penitent. Directly after lunch I went off in the steam launch to call on the Caratheodorys and found them in, the mother and 2 daughters in law. I then went on to Princess Nazli whom 1 found at home and very much cut up at the loss of her friend Mme d'Ehrenhoff. I sat with her some time and only got home in time to dress for dinner. Mr Malet and Mr Cartwright dined with us. News of death of young Queen of Spain.

' Unable to identify. Unable to identify. "t

Russian general member of the Turco-Bulgarian border delimitation commission.

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Friday 28"1 June. Sewed all morning. Dr Dickson came to lunch. Visit from M. Dumaine, Mme Couyoumgian 1 and Mrs A. Hanson. As soon as we had had tea and they were gone, Henry, Mr Kennedy, and I went out for a ride. It was very hot so we went up on the Maslak road to get a little air but we soon saw a thunderstorm coming up from the other side of the Bosphorus and turned to go home hastening as much as possible and we thought we had just managed it in time as a few drops of rain fell as we entered the house, but after all the storm passed off and there was not one at all. Mr Kennedy and Lord George dined with us. Saturday 29lh June. Mr Reade of Varna lunched with us. A messenger arrived (Mr Woodford) via Marseilles and later in the day came the Helicon from Naples bringing Mr Johnstone 2 . Sunday 30th June. Mr Gribble had to go to Mr Masters' funeral so we had no service here. Just as we were finishing lunch the Odessa mail came in and the M 3 and S 4 arrived to stay with us. They had had a good and quick passage and had come from Berlin direct night and day. We sat in the grove in the afternoon talking. Ct Zichy joined us and I took the M and him round the garden. The Mother and Schreiber, Col. Hills, Ct A Forester General Dickson, Rassam, Sandison, Malet, Kennedy, Chermside, Cartwright and Lord George dined with us. Monday 1st July. The Mother gave me a present of £100 on my birthday. Henry went to Safvet Pasha in the morning. Mr A Loftus (messenger) arrived from Berlin, so we now have 3 here. I played tennis with the secretaries; a very hot day. Henry went to Yildiz. The M and S walked on the quay. The M and S., Rassam, the Barings, Mr Loftus, Mr Woodford dined with us. Tuesday 2nd July. Sat talking and working in the morning. The Salamis left with Mr Baring as we finished luncheon. It was an excessively hot day. We went out in the 6-oared caique and took the General, the Mother and Schreiber down the Bosphorus. We landed at f u b u k l u to have coffee and narghileh and then went on nearly as far as to Kandilli and crossed by Hisar to come home. Mr Rassam, Messenger and Mr Johnstone dined with us. Wednesday 3rd July. Wrote for the post. Mr Rassam left for England. It was very hot. Sat in all day with "The Mother" working. Henry went off to see the Sultan in the afternoon and was home very late so we had to sit down to dinner without him. Mr Malet dined with us. Henry and Mr Sandison came in just as we were finishing dinner. 1

Wife of Bedros Couyoumgian senior Armenian official at the Forestry Department.

2

Possibly H.A.M. Butler Johnstone the pro-Turkish M.P.

3

Lady Charlotte Guest, Enid Layard's mother.

4

C. Schrieber, Lady Charlotte's second husband.

- 119 Thursday 4" July. Copied for Henry in the morning. About 12 dressed and at 1 went on board the Antelope to go down to Prinkipo for the Admiral's fête. There were lots of ladies already on board. We had our lunch on board. The day was windy (S.) and hot and unpleasant. As we passed Constantinople there was nothing to see as the dust was flying in clouds and at the same time there was a gentle swell which upset some of the ladies. On going down the Bosphorus we stopped to pick up the Hansons at Kandilli and at Arnavutkoy Mme Carathéodory and her 2 sisters Miles Musurus 1 . We reached the Islands soon after 3 o'clock at the same time as the Helicon which brought up other guests from town. En route Capt. Stopford semaphored to me, "Tell Lady Layard I have a cake on board for her but if the Antelope passes us she should not have it". As soon as we anchored near the Alexandra, the Admiral sent boats to fetch us. The ships were all dressed for the American Independence which added to the gay scene. The decks of the Alexandra were decorated with flowers and flags. There were a great many people and it was a very pretty party. There was dancing and I danced a quadrille with the Admiral. We left with all our party soon after 7 and going home it was much rougher than going and many ladies were very ill and I was rather squeamish. It was dark before we got to Constantinople and the storm had blown off and there was an illumination in the town. All the mosques and Turkish ships were lighted in celebration of some religious festival. We got home after 10 o'clock. Had dinner and went to bed very tired. Friday 5th July. Copied all the morning secret despatches for Henry to send by tomorrow's messenger. Mme and Mile Condouriotis called. The weather was changeable and it rained a little but not enough to prevent us playing tennis in the afternoon. Lord George and Mr Cartwright dined. Saturday 6th July. Wrote for messenger who left today. We settled that I and "The Mother" should drive and Henry and Schreiber ride to the Bends,, but Henry being too busy to go I drove with them both. We got out at the Bends and went to the head of both reservoirs. We were stopped by the sentinels on guard at first but the Pasha in command happened to be there and was very polite — let us go everywhere and offered us coffee which we declined. Came home and had tea in the garden and a visit from Radolinski and a new German secretary Wrangel I think. Before going out driving I went a moment over to the Fourniers to arrange what day next week we were to dine with them, either Wednesday or Thursday. Taught Jerry before dinner. Mr Malet dined. Sunday 7 th July. Mr Gribble was ill and we had no service. The dentist, M. Dorigny came from town and worked at my teeth and pulled out one for 1 Daughters of Paul Musurus Bey, brother of Kostaki Musurus Pasha.

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Henry who had to hurry away to go off to town in the launch. Mrs Arthur Hanson and the 2 d'Ehrenhoff girls called, having come over to see if there was a service here. Riistem Bey, Governor of Lebanon and old Dr Millingen dined with us besides the Embassy and Mr Chermside. Monday 8Ih July. Mr H. Guarracino lunched with us. At 3.30 we went out in the big caique and took Mr Malet and Cartwright with us and went to the islands at the entrance of the Black Sea called Simplegades and we landed and climbed up to the top of the rock by the help of some barefooted Greeks who came from the village of Fanaraki close by. At the top of the rock we came to the altar stone dedicated to Apollo by the Greeks. The inscriptions are rather worn but the altar has remained at its place for nearly 2000 years or more. Visit from Mme Fournier and Mme de Torcy on my return. Tuesday 9th July. Worked and talked with The Mother till 12 when she and Schreiber went off to Kandilli and on with Mrs A Hanson to the Bazaar. Muhtar Pasha called and as he wanted to return to town went down with them. After luncheon Henry and I went down to Hisar in the 3-oared to call on Ahmed Vefik Pasha whom we found at home and also his son Refik Bey. Walked in the garden with him and got home after 7. The Mother and Schreibner came in only in time for dinner. The Fourniers, Mr Sandison, Mallet and Kennedy dined with us. Then came a telegram to say Sir S. Northcote had announced in the House that England has bought Cyprus and made a defensive alliance with Turkey as regards Asia. Fournier was terribly put out. This treaty is what has kept Henry so busy of late and I have had to copy all the letters and dispatches on the subject and the treaty itself. It was so secret that Henry had not let it even be known in the Chancery. We sat on the balcony. It was a beautiful night. Wednesday 10th July. After luncheon Henry and I, The Mother and Schreibner set out to drive to Belgrade. When we got to the turn off to the village we were stopped by sentinels who said we must go to the Bends to get leave to pass. It would have made it too late so we gave it up and went on to the Bends and drove back. Took a turn in Buyiikdere where the Russians band was playing bad and loud music and then home. Mr Mailing (Consul at Dardanelles), Lord George and Mr Cartwright dined. Thursday 11th July. Bathed and worked in the morning and talked to The Mother. The Admiral and Mr Winslow came to stay here. Capt. Stopford and I went into the garden to talk over tomorrow's arrangements. We had great tennis games but it was so hot that I and Mr Winslow who played against the Admiral and Mr Kennedy lost each time. We dined with the Fourniers and met M. Duval and M. X., two French travellers. Mama felt rather C.D. and I had to take her home directly after dinner and then went

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back to the Fourniers. The Admiral, Mr Winslovv, The Mother and Schreibner, Henry and I dined there. Friday 12th July. Directly after breakfast the Admiral and Mr Winslow and I set out to arrange the garden for the party: got a tent put up, brought out chairs and carpets and had a sail stretched on the tennis ground to dance on. It was very hot and the wind South. I wore black and silver gauze and white felt bonnet with white feathers. Over 200 people came and the dancing was kept up till after 7 when I thought it best to have God Save The Queen played. We had the Admiral's band to play a good string band. Safvet Pasha and Mahmud Damad and the Sultan's chamberlain and an ADC came amongst others. Zichy stayed and dined and slept. The Admiral and Mr Winslow left in the Helicon about 7 to return to Prinkipo. Saturday 13th July. Wrote invitations for Monday's in the morning. Henry had to go Yildiz directly after lunch. The General, Mr Schreibner, and Mama went in the caique to the Sweet Waters to see a cricket match. About 3 Ahmed Vefik Pasha arrived and he and I spent the afternoon in the garden. Went to the fernery and got a gardener to come and cut branches to let the holly tree breathe. Went back to the grove and had tea. Henry came back just before dinner not having seen the Sultan and being so provoked with him that he left and came home in a huff. Ahmed Vefik stayed to dinner and at 9.30 we sent him home in the launch escorted by the General. Sultan telegraphed to beg Henry will go to him tomorrow morning. Sunday 14th July. No service. The dentist kept me all the morning. Henry went to Yildiz after breakfast but came back about 5 unsuccessful in what he wanted of the Sultan. We went to call on the Fourniers. He was out and he was walking on the quay. Took a turn. Saw the brig Sarah Smart waiting to take Gallenga to Cyprus. The General, Ct Pisani, Mr Kennedy, Cartwright and Sandison dined. Monday 15th July. Woke tired and headachy so I remained in bed and read and wrote till about 3 o'clock when I put my dressing gown and went down to the boudoir and had tea and laid in the sofa. Dr Millingen came to call and I saw him. I wrote a few letters. We dined at 7.30 and had a dinner for the Turks— Safvet Pasha, Vesim Pasha 1 , Mustafa Fosfor Pasha 2 , Ali Pasha 3 , Kamil Bey, Serkis Efendi, Savas Pasha 4 , Muhtar Pasha, Rauf Pasha, Refet Bey 5 and the Sultan's secretary Fuad Bey, — 11 Turks besides The 1

Minister of the Navy.

2

Minister of War.

3 President of the Council of State. 4

Under-secretary of state at the foreign ministry.

5

Safvet Pasha's son.

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Mother and Schreiber, the General, Sandison and Chermside. The Turks were in good humour especially Safvet who before dinner exchanged with Henry the Ratifications of the Treaty after a long struggle. He said he had been till 5 in the morning at the Council and had hardly slept last night. After dinner some people came and we had a little dance which was over at 12 o'clock. The Turks had a lovely moonlight night to go home. Tuesday 16th July. The Mother and Schreibner went off with the General to town in the Antelope to see the dancing dervishes. I painted Jerry's portrait all the morning. M. d'Ehrenhoff called to say his daughters should come and stay with us next Saturday. Henry and I lunched alone for the first time for an age. Sat in his room and read after lunch. Fournier called. At 3.30 Henry and I drove into town in the victoria to meet The Mother and Schreibner. Went straight to the Embassy, had tea in the garden, showed the Mother and Schreibner the house and then dressed and went to dine at Zichy's. Going down the hill to the French embassy one of the horse fell and we had to get out and walk there. We dined in Zichy's garden with Chinese lanterns hung on the trees. It was a lovely evening. There were only 3 Austrian secretaries at dinner besides ourselves. We sat in the garden till nearly ten when we set off home. Zichy sent our carriage on down the hill and made us walk down. We found the Antelope boat at Tophane and came up the Bosphorus in the Antelope having a most lovely moonlit journey, perfect without wind and we sat on the bridge talking and enjoying it. Got home at 12. Wednesday 17th July. Bathed before breakfast. Afterwards took a turn with Henry in the garden. Planted some myrtle cuttings. Wrote for the post. Just as we finished luncheon the Helicon arrived bringing the Admiral and Mr Winslow and Mr and Mrs Hall of HMS Flamingo. We gave them luncheon and the Halls went away but the rest played tennis. While playing, Mrs Willy Hanson came and sat with us till about 7 o'clock. The Admiral returned to Prinkipo at 4.30. There was a meeting of the Corp Diplomatique at 5 o'clock and Corti and Maynard came out and sat a while with us while waiting for the others to return to town. Mr Grace 1 dined with us. He brought the news that Henry Hanson's little boy had fallen into a pond and was drowned. Thursday 18,h July. The sad news about the Hansons' was confirmed by a note I got before breakfast from Mrs Willy. The little child was alone in the garden watering his garden. He was missing at lunchtime and when search was made his hat was found on the top of a well. Search was made and his body was found at the bottom. I bathed before breakfast. At 10 set out in the steam launch with Henry to go to Rumeli Hisar to see the distribution of 1

Unable to identify.

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prices at the Robert College—Mr Maynard presiding. At the end Henry was called upon to speak. He congratulated the students in their success and said there were now great careers open to the Christians in Turkey and a great future for the country. It depended on the Christians of every denomination, by showing respect to each other and to the Musulmans and by having brotherly love one with another as a bright example to the Musulmans, whether this Empire became a great one or not. There was then a speech by Mr Maynard and a prayer. We hastened home arriving to lunch at 2 o'clock. Visit from Dr Dickson. Sat and worked and talked till it was time to dress and at 5 started in the Antelope to go to the Fleet. Took with us the Dolez and all our Chancery. It was a lovely evening and we sat on the bridge going down. We arrived a little after 6.30 and sat down to dinner 13 of us. As soon as we had dinner went on board the Alexandra in the Admiral's barge. Had a little time to wait in Capt. Fitzroy's cabin before the theatricals began. The piece played was Aladin or the Wonderful Scamp. The ship was charmingly lighted up and decorated. The piece lasted about one hour and a half. Afterwards we had refreshment and then had to leave the dancing and return to the Antelope. The Alexandra and the Devastation both opened magnetic lights on the islands and ships. We had a fine moon also to return. We had singing choruses on the way and got home about 12.30. Friday 19th July. Set off at 10.30 with the Mother and Schreibner in the steam launch. Landed them and the cavass at Ortakoy to go and see the Sultan go to mosque and I went over to Princess Nazli's and waited till the others joined me which they did at about 2. They paid Princess Nazli a short visit and then we left and went on to Eyiib eating a biscuit or 2 on the way. At Eyiib which is quite at the end of the Golden Horn we got out and walked to the mosque passing the most picturesque tombs and buildings belonging to the mosque. When we came to the gate of the courtyard of the mosque the cavass went and got permission for us to cross it which we did quickly just stopping to look through a grating where was a very holy tomb. The walls of the building were covered with lovely Persian tiles. We walked through the most picturesque Oriental looking streets. We walked until we passed a house from which came curious sounds which the cavass told me was a tekke or convent of dervishes and he took us in to a narrow passage where we could look into a small square empty room where men seated on their heels on sheep skin mats, about 20 people in a circle who were shouting out their prayers while swinging their bodies backwards and forwards. This went on a long while and was said to be going to last even longer so we left them at their devotions and returned to the steam launch and we steamed home

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arriving after 6 and I had some tea but was so tired I had to give up going down to dinner and go to bed. Saturday 20lh July. At 10.30 went on board the Antelope with the Mother and Schreibner, Henry, the General, Mr Cartwright, Lord George and Mr Sandison and went down to Beylerbeyi Palace where the steam launch met and landed us and we went over the Palace and then up the gardens to see a tiger. As we approached the cage the enormous beast rushed in a fury from one end of the cage to the other and sprang at the bars with a roar making us draw back. I never saw such a fine tiger, it is very well kept and had a large cage. We embarked in the steam launch and had a very rough crossing and all of a sudden Nicholi, the footman who was sitting in the bow got up to change his place where a bench was and off went his hat and began floating up the Bosphorus. We stopped and went after it and after 2 or 3 shots secured it and went across to Dolmabah9e. Here we were met by an ADC of the Sultan's who showed us the palace and drew our attention to the collection of modern pictures of which there are some good ones. The ADC said he was a painter himself and appreciated them. As we came to the Palace Prince Lobanoff was leaving it having also chosen today to visit the palaces. Last night late, the Sultan hearing we were going to see the Palaces sent an ADC to invite Henry and me to breakfast with him but we sent early this morning to say it would be an impossibility. We begged the ADC to explain and apologize to HM. From here we returned on board the Antelope and lunched and directly afterwards we went on shore at Sirkeci iskelesi and got into carriages and drove to the Old Seraglio and were taken to see the Baghdad Kiosk which is quite a jewel in its way. The walls are lined with Persian tiles, the divans are white stain and embroidered with flowers and there is a curious high extinguisher shaped metal fire place. From the window there is a magnificent view. We went from here to the Treasury. At the door stood in a double row between 20 to 30 servants. The gentleman in charge received the keys and unlocked 2 doors and broke the Imperial seal which is set on a cord over the lock and we entered a small room full of beautiful things. The first thing that strikes one is a kind of platform on legs or throne with a footstool of enamel and jewels of every sort and a gold cushion embroidered with pearls. It is of most lovely work. It was taken by Osman from Baghdad. Then there were trappings for horses, aigrettes for the Sultan all set in diamonds and every kind of beautiful things, jade, crystal, china all jewelled and a gold prayer carpet worked with pearls and emeralds, an uncut emerald about 1/2 foot square, old clocks, armours etc. From there we went to the Royal Library where we had to put on slippers before entering, then to another kiosk which was to be used by the Sultan to rest in after the ceremonies of Bayram and

- 125 which has a large kind of divan like a 4 poster which takes up to half the room. There we rested and were served with sherbet and coffee and then went and tried to get into St Irene but found it was now used as an arsenal and we had no order and could not get in. Drove to St Sofia and arrived there just as they were going to prayer so we had to go up first into the galleries. The way up is by an incline and not by steps as usual. We stayed up in the gallery till prayer was over and it was very interesting to watch. When prayer was over we went down into the mosque putting on slippers which we hired at the door over our boots which made it very difficult to get along. From here we went to Sultan Ahmed but we had no difficulty in going in with our usual shoes as a great deal of the matting was still up. Then we drove to Siileymaniye and found it full of soldiers and huts in the courtyard. The officer there told us there were 4 battalions there. He was very polite and the soldiers made way for us. We returned from here to the Antelope and went home to Therapia. Sunday 21 s ' July. I bathed with the 2 d'Ehrenhoff girls who came last evening to stay with us. It was a very hot day and I was very tired and slept a great deal all day and sat out in the grove where I heard Jerry his catechism. The dentist came about 2 o'clock and did Henry's teeth. The members of the Embassy dined with us. Monday 22 K| July. Bathed and swam out of the bathing house, Mr Kennedy coming with the life buoy. However I did not venture out of my depth but the 2 girls who are excellent swimmers did so. I hurt my toe and so in the afternoon when there was tennis played I could not play and only looked on. Received as usual and had a good many people and very animated dancing. Tuesday 23rd July. Bathed and swam out. Began to make a portrait of Aimée d'Ehrenhoff. The Mother and Schreiber went to town to see the dancing dervishes. Henry went to the Sultan. The girls played tennis with the secretaries and I looked on till Princess Vicdan Halim came to call. She did not stay very long. Wednesday 24th July. Did not bathe. At 11.30 I started in the Antelope and took the cook, Giovianni and Hill, Mme Joubert, Mama's maid and Jerry. Stopped at Hisar and took on board Princess Vicdan up. She came in her caique with a green velvet hanging thrown over the back of it, at the corner of which were silver fish dangling into the water and the rowers had silver fish on their green velvet jackets. She brought a man servant and a slave girl. She herself of course wore the ferace and veil. We then stopped at Findikli and sent the barge to fetch the other ladies but only Princess Nazli with Miss Meyrick and a slave came, the other ladies had excused themselves, then we went straight to Prinkipo and lunched en route, Jerry and the maids serving

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us. Just as we finished lunch we arrived. The Admiral sent his barge to fetch us and we went on board the Alexandra. He took us all over the ship and even into the engines and the Turkish ladies were delighted. We rested and took tea and coffee and cigarettes and then went off to the Devastation and were most kindly received by Capt. Hunt Grubble. The ladies climbed into the revolving tower and turned it themselves, firing off the gun. A Turkish gentleman was on board and wanted to join the party to which the Princesses objected and we got the Admiral to send him to see the Téméraire. They said they did not mind talking to European gentlemen but could not speak to Turks. When we went into Capt. Grubble's cabin the Princesses were quite done and Capt. Grubbe brought Eau de Cologne and cold water for them and they were delighted at the civility of our gentlemen. Being 4 o'clock we had to set out to return home so we went on board the Antelope and set off. About half way we had "hot bearing" and had to stop about half an hour. We reached about 6 and left the ladies at their respective homes and I reached home about 7. Found Zichy had come to dine with us. After dinner we went to an evening party at the French Embassy, a dance which was very nice and their terrace was lighted up. The night was very hot. Thursday 25th July. I bathed with the girls. Painted Aimée's portrait. The Mother and Schreibner went to the bazaars. After luncheon I went out in the 3-oared caique with Henry, left him at Hisar and went on to Bebek to call on Princess Zeyneb 1 , Nazli's aunt. Nazli met me there and interpreted. The house was magnificent, Princess Zeyneb was a little stout elderly lady, very polite and kind. Had usual coffee and sweets and water and then a refreshing ice. It was very hot. I went back to Hisar and went up to join Henry at Ahmed Vefik's but met Henry just at the top of the hill. However we did not to Ahmed Vefik's for a short time and I paid a visit to his harem. Got home at 7. Very hot night, sang in the evening. Friday 26th July. Woke with a headache and so stayed in bed till about 4 o'clock. Wrote and received letters. Went and sat in the tennis ground while others played. Mr Woodford dined with us. Saturday 27th July. Painted Aimée's portrait all the morning. Directly after lunch I drove with the Mother to Biiyiikdere to call on Mme Radolinski but did not gain admittance and came straight back. Count Zichy came while we were at lunch and there was very nearly a row as Schreibner tried to chaff him about the Austrians coming to Constantinople instead of the Russians as Lord Salisbury said in the House of Lords the other day. Zichy got pale and we had to turn it off and shut up Schreibner. Henry and I and the d'Ehrenhoff played tennis but it was dreadfully hot. While I was hearing Jerry read before ' Daughter of Mehmed AH Pasha of Egypt.

- 127 dinner we saw the Helicon arrive with Admiral Sir Edmund Commerall and Mr Gresley. They have come to stop with us. Capt. Stopford dined with us. Sunday 28lh July. M. d'Ehrenhoff took his girls to Kandilli for the day. I and the Mother and Schreibner went to service on board the Helicon, the Captain sending his barge for us. While there, an Italian sailing ship anchored near swinging round and nearly ran into us. Went home and wrote till luncheon. It was very hot but the North wind rose suddenly about 1 o'clock. Visit from Ct Pisani. After lunch we sat in the grove till about 4 when Nazli came to call. She stayed about an hour and Mama and Henry also helped to entertain her. Went out again and walked round the garden after tea in the grove, with Admiral Commerall and Capt. Stopford. M. Fournier called and walked with us. Aimée d'Ehrenhoff came back but Ida stopped at Kandilli. Ct Pisani and Mr Woodford dined besides the Embassy. Walked on the terrace in the evening as it was very hot. Monday 29th July. Painted Aimée's portrait all the morning. Afternoon we went out in the 6-oared caique with the Mother and Schreibner and landed at Kôrfez and walked up the cypress avenue and then down to the ponds where the tortoises are and across to the other side of the valley. We climbed the hill till we came to the ruins of Fuad Pasha's 1 kiosque. We sent the cavass back to Kôrfez to tell the caique to go round to meet us at Kanlica and we went down into that village having to jump over a stone wall in order to get out of the kiosque grounds. We then went along the Asia shore home to tea. Baker Pasha dined and slept here. Ct Zichy slept here. Party as usual. Tuesday 30th July. The Mother and Schreibner left us in the Odessa boat which M. Fournier kindly ordered to stop for them. It came about 11.30 and as soon as it was in sight round the corner they got into the steam launch and went on board. Had my first lesson of Habib Efendi 2 in Turkish and think I shall like him. At 4 o'clock we went out riding — a large party. Mme Zarifi, Aimée, Henry, Mr Kennedy, Mr Cartwright and Lord George. We went on the high road to Biiyukdere and came back by the upper one on the hill side. Mr Cartwright had one tumble. Came in about 6. Rested and heard Jerry read. M. d'Ehrenhoff dined with us. In the evening as we were sitting with the gentlemen who were smoking some said they heard music in the Secretaries' house and Mr Kennedy begged us to go over which the General, M. d'Ehrenhoff, Mr Gresley and Aimée did. The General and Aimée set up calling like cats. We found Mr Cartwright playing the piano and the others smoking. We stayed about half an hour, sang a little and then went home.

* Fuad Pasha, a former grand vizier had died in 1869.

2Unable to identify.

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Wednesday 31s1 July. Went to bath with Aimée. Painted her portrait. After lunch saw foul looking men fishing the mackerel that rushed by in shoals and thought we would like to do the same so we went over to the Secretaries' house and got lines there but the fish all disappeared at once. We returned and played lawn tennis. Mrs W. Hanson, Helda and Ida d'Ehrenhoff came, Ida to remain. Henry and Admiral Commerall played. Capt. Wingfield, Mr Scudamore, Mr Stanhope dined and Mr Woodford came after dinner. Very tired, bed early. Thursday 1st August. Messenger left, wrote letters. At 12 Ida and I set off in the steam launch to Kandilli. Went straight to Mrs W. Hanson and lunched with her. Afterward we walked up the hill to Mrs Henry's whom we found in. It was the first time I had seen her since her child was drowned. She looked dreadfully sad and made me quite miserable. As a storm threatened we did not stay long and it began to rain before we got quite down to the boat and as soon as we set off the storm came down tremendously and the lightening was very vivid and the rain so thick we could hardly see an inch before us. We got home about 5.30. Capt. Stopford came to tea. Friday 2nd August. Woke with a headache and did not get up. Mrs A. Hanson came in the morning and came upstairs and sat with me as did the Ehrenhoffs. The weather was quite unsettled. I got up after luncheon. Henry rode with Miss Zarifi and Miss d'Ehrenhoff. Mrs Baring dined with us. Mr Gresley went away to town. The General dined on board the Helicon. Saturday 3rd August. Henry gave me and Aimée a long thing to copy which took us all morning to do. I was interrupted by my Turkish lesson of Habib Efendi. Admiral Hornby arrived to lunch and also Dr Dickson. I returned to my copying after lunch till about 4. Henry and the two Admirals drove off at 5 to dine with the Sultan at Yildiz and also Mr Malet and General Dickson. 1 went off to call on Mme Fournier, did not find her. Returned and played tennis. Mme Fournier joined us there. I and the Ehrenhoff girls dined with the secretaries. After dinner M. d'Ehrenhoff and Mr Chermside came and we had a musical evening, everybody playing or singing. Henry wore his Bath today for the first time. We had great trouble in making him put it on. The Admirals at last persuaded him and told him which side the ribbon should be worn. Henry said he hated it and that we were like children fond of gewgaws. Mr Ashenburnham returned from England today. Sunday 4lh August. Started off directly after breakfast in the Helicon for Prinkipo with the 2 Admirals, M. d'Ehrenhoff and 2 girls, Mr Gresley, Lord George, Mr Kennedy and Mr Cartwright, Malet and the General. We got there about 12 and went on board the Agincourt. Went over the ship with Capt. Wells and then had a splendid luncheon which lasted some time. At a

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quarter to 3 Mr Gresley took us on board the Téméraire to pay Capt. Culne Seymour a visit and he was very civil to us and got us steam and made a gun move in the tower. At 4.30 we returned to the Helicon and all except Admiral Hornby started home. Had tea en route and arrived at 7. Mr Wallace, the new Times correspondent who wrote a book on Russia dined with us. A pasty faced hollow-eyed little man but who seemed to be pleasant. Mr Chermside and the Embassy dined also. Monday 5 th August. Henry went to Safvet in the steam launch. 1 went on with Aimée's portrait and practised a little. Henry returned just as we were finishing luncheon. I copied out 2 of Charles Dickens' letters to Henry for him to send to Miss Dickens who wants to publish her father's correspondence. When I had finished and took it to Henry found Zichy with him. He was to have dined with us but he was in a fuss and said he must rush back to town and telegraph. Henry tells me that there is a deal of hard fighting in Bosnia where there are resisting by force the occupation by the Austrians. Walked in the garden with Henry and Ida. Could not play tennis as having poured all the morning the ground was wet. We went to see the new broods of chicken and pigeons and then up to the top of the garden and returned to tea. Learned my Turkish lesson. Mr Malet dined with us. Very few people came in the evening on account of the uncertain weather. Bed at 12. Tuesday 6"1 August. Messenger left via Odessa. I had Turkish lesson. Read. Mrs Henry Hanson came just as we finished luncheon. Gave her some. At 4 Henry, Aimée, Lord George and Mr Kennedy and I rode. I rode the chestnut that belonged to poor Julian who went very well. We went by the hill to the aqueduct and by the village of Bahçekoy passed above the Khedive's farm along the other ridge and came down the military road close to Buyiikdere. Got home about 7. Mssrs Ashenburnham, Kennedy and Sandison dined with us. Wednesday 7 th August. Had a headache and did not get up till lunch time. Directly after lunch I went out with Henry in the steam launch. We went to Scutari to see Julian's grave and to arrange about putting up the stone sent in his memoiy by his parents. Mr Lyne was not in but his sons were and so was his wife and I went in and paid her a visit. Found she had 8 children — a boy of 17 and a baby 3 weeks old. From Scutari we went to Hisar to pay Ahmed Vefik a visit and found the Chief Judge of Roumelia with him, a handsome middle aged man with a white turban and white flowing garments and to him belonged a splendid white donkey with red velvet and gold trappings which we had seen at the door as we went in. He was a nice looking man and spoke French pretty well, having been secretary of embassy at Paris

- 130 in his youth with Ahmed Vefik Pasha. Had some tea which revived me and at 6 we left and returned home. Thursday 8th August. Still headache. The weather is cloudy and unstable. Sewed all day and went in the afternoon to sit in the grove. Henry went to Buyiikdere to see Lobanoff. Went up to the stables to see the chicken and the cow milked with the girls. Friday 9th August. Went on with Aimée's portrait. Savas Pasha called and stayed an hour till luncheon which he partook of with us. After luncheon we took our work to the grove. Mr Foster came there to us and later General Mehmed Ali Pasha, just returned from the Congress. He brought me a lot of little flags he had taken for me off the cakes at the last dinner at Berlin all except the Russian and Turkish which Schouvalloff had carried off. It was very nice of him to bring them on purpose for me. Zichy, Mme and Mile Fournier, Riistem Pasha and Mr Malet dined with us and we had some music in the evening and I sang Spanish songs. Saturday lO" August. Henry went off in the steam launch to see Safvet Pasha directly after breakfast. I had my Turkish lesson. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came to luncheon. Directly afterwards, Henry went off again in the Antelope to S. Stefano to call on General Todleben and did not get back till nearly dinner time. I entertained Ahmed Vefik. Took him to walk in the garden and to sit in the grove and have tea. The d'Ehrenhoff girls went to the Kandilli v Fleet cricket match at Beykoz with their father. Capt. Culme Seymour, General Baker Pasha, Mr Black and Mr Eyres came to dine and sleep. Mrs Fawcett dined with us so we made a party of 11. In the evening Henry, the General and I went in the steam launch with Ahmed Vefik and took him home. It was a moonlit night, only rather stormy. It made the 3rd time today that Henry had gone down the Bosphorus. Sunday 11th August. Sat talking all the morning with Capt. Seymour etc. After lunch read the Psalms and lessons with Aimée and Ida. Mr Marinich paid me a visit. Began to sing hymns with the girls when Nazli Hamm arrived. She is very anxious about her pension as she hears the English commission will not pay the family pensions and the Vice-Roy also refuses. She is also very unhappy at home and wants to get divorced from her husband. She stayed till after 5. When she went I walked in the garden a little with Henry and then rested till dinner and was so tired that I had to go to bed directly after dinner. Besides those staying with us, the d'Ehrenhoff, Baker Pasha, Capt. Seymour and Mr Black and Eyres we had Mr Malet, Cartwright, Kennedy, Sandison and Lord George Montague to dinner. Monday 12th August. I got up late having read in bed all the morning. Mrs A. Hanson came to luncheon. At 3 I took her for a drive in the victoria

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towards Belgrade. Came back at 5. Aimée, Capt. Seymour and Mr Kennedy rode. Henry was prevented by Zichy's arrival. Zichy dined with us but left in the evening. Baker Pasha left us this morning. Had a large party in the evening. Tuesday 13th August. Capt. Culme Seymour went away after breakfast. I worked at Aimée's portrait. At 3 o'clock Princess Vicdan Halim came to call and stayed a couple of hours. When she was gone I found the grey parrot ill so I ran with him up to the stables. Gave him Indian corn and found his ailment was starvation as he could not eat the food we gave him. Read and studied Turkish from 6 till dinner time. Mr Malet and Kennedy dined with us. Wednesday 14th August. Aimée went off to town to meet Mrs A Hanson with Mr Foster. Henry went to Safvet in the steam launch. I had a Turkish lesson. Was going to town to see the Turkish orphans when my head ached and I gave it up. After lunch my head suddenly got well and I went and sat in the grove with Henry and read and worked. At 4.30 Henry and I took a drive to Maslak and back. Read till dinner from 6 o'clock. I had sent the steam launch to fetch the d'Ehrenhoff girls and in it General Dickson went. He made a mistake and came back without them. Just at the end of dinner they appeared with Mrs Arthur Hanson who had brought them up in her caique not knowing how else to send them. Rüstern Pasha called in the morning to wish us good bye as he returns to his Governorship of the Lebanon tomorrow. Thursday 15th August. Breakfasted at a quarter to nine and at 9.30 started with Henry in the Antelope to go to the Prinkipo regatta. Took with us Mrs and 2 Miss and Master Parniss, Mr Kennedy, Lord George, the General, the messenger, Capt. Player who had just arrived via Odessa. Played the piano and worked on the way down. Got there at a quarter to twelve just in time for the Antelope to run a boat in the 12 o'clock race and win 2nd price. The first three boats were a Turk, an Alexandra boat and the Antelope. In going round the buoy the 2 latter fouled, in the confusion the Turks slipped out a couple more oars and two men from the bottom and although it was a close thing beat the Alexandra boat. But they were discovered by the committee and disqualified and lost the prize. It was a real bit of Oriental cunning and amused every one exceedingly. In one race the Austrian stationnaire boat won the first price to their great delight and they cheered and made a great noise and then requested Zichy to telegraph it to the Emperor which he did. The Antelope 5-oar boat won the first price in another race. About 12.30 we went on board the Alexandra to lunch with the Admiral, leaving the Parniss to lunch with Capt. Wingfield. We waited a long time for lunch but the Captan Pasha did not come. A Turkish steam launch came and while there was a parley and a difficulty in understanding what was wanted,

- 132 Zychy's boat came and they begged them to move on a bit at which they went off. At last we sat down to lunch at 2.30 and soon after the Captan Pasha and with him Mehmed Pasha who sat next to me and was very jolly and amusing and Ahmed and another Pasha. While we were taking coffee on the poop a furious note came from Kâmil Bey saying he had been to the Alexandra in a Turkish steam launch and most rudely sent away. Henry sent Mr Chermside to apologize for the mistake and to bring him which he did with great difficulty. Meanwhile General Todleben arrived in the Constantine from San Stefano and came on board to visit the Admiral with the commander of the Constantine. The Admiral gave him his salute of 17 guns on leaving and the Constantine returned it. The view was a very pretty and animated one. With the ships of the Fleet, all the stationnaires (except the Russian) and several tugs all dressed out in flags, the small boats darting about, a brilliant sunshine and the town of Prinkipo in the background, it was very pretty. At 5 we started home taking Mrs Arthur and her little girl with us. When we got to the Bosphorus we passed the Italian Sirena which had left before us. We stopped at Kandilli to drop Mrs Arthur and as her caique did not come we had to lower a boat and land her. We notwithstanding passed the Sirena a second time, much to their disgust. They tried to "crowd us out" by driving us almost on shore but we got past and got home before them. Mr Chermside and Lord George dined with us. Had a little music in the evening. Friday 16th August. I took a walk after breakfast with Henry. Painted at Aimée's portrait. Dr Dickson came to luncheon. Wrote letters till 4.30 in my bedroom. Visit from Persian ambassador. Drove with Genera Dickson to call on Mme Fournier who was just going out so we went on to the Khedive's garden to the Antelope's lawn tennis party. The Fourniers, Parniss and Ternau came. I only stayed about half an hour then came home and studied Turkish and read and heard Jerry read. Mr Sandison dined with us. News that the Austrians had been beaten back in Bosnia. There is a story that Austria went to the Porte to ask them to persuade the Bosnians to submit and that the answer they got was, "You say you occupy the country because we cannot govern it and now you want us to use our influence thereby showing that we alone can govern them". Saturday 17th August. Had Turkish lesson. Painter Aimée's portrait and view of French Embassy. At 4 went to play lawn tennis with Aimée, Mr Ashenburnham, Mr Malet and Cartwright. The General, Mr Chermside, Mr Kennedy and Lord George went off in the Antelope to attend the Russian review at San Stefano. Henry and Mr Sandison (who lunched with us) went directly afterward in the carriage to Yildiz to see the Sultan but returned to

- 133 dinner. At 6.30 went in and read and instructed Jerry till dinner time. Mr Sandison dined with us, the General was not back. Sunday 18th August. Sat talking to Aimée and brushed and arranged Ida's hair. Mr Gresley arrived about 12 and stayed to luncheon. The General is said to have a bad sore throat and excused himself. Mr Gresley stayed till 6. I painted view of French embassy. Henry went to town in the steam launch to compliment Zichy on the Emperor's birthday. When he came home went and sat in the garden with him. At 7 the girls, Jerry and I went to my bedroom and read the Psalms and lessons before dinner. Malet and Sandison dined. Sang hymns in evening. Monday 19th August. Henry went to Safvet with Mr Sandison in the 3oared caique and the wind blew hard and they had great difficulty in getting back and arrived after luncheon. I went on with Aimée's portrait and at 1 o'clock, Mrs A. Hanson arrived. Just after lunch Henry returned and Mehmed Ali Pasha called to bid us good bye as he leaves tonight on a mission to Albania. He lunched with Henry and went off to town. We played lawn tennis about 5 o'clock and then came in and copied a letter for Henry. Mr Kennedy and Ashenburnham dined. Very few people came in the evening to the dance. Tuesday 20th August. Wrote for messenger before breakfast. Had Turkish lesson. Afternoon rode with Henry, Mr Kennedy and Aimée. Went to Yenikôy and explored a way home over the hills. Got home about 6. Dressed and went in the second carriage with the Dolez and Mr Malet to Biiyukdere to dine with Prince Lobanoff. Met General Todleben, Zichy and a lot of Russian secretaries. Todleben kept us waiting a long time for dinner. A band played outside the room and made a deafening noise and made my head ache so that I could hardly touch any dinner. Almost the whole evening I sat talking to Todleben, or at least he to me. He was full of his wife and daughters and his chateau where he says every year he has a new building erecting and has just had a Bulgarian house and a mosque made to be ready for his return. At a little past ten we returned home. Wednesday 21st August. Aimée and Ida went to town with their father to see Mrs A. Hanson off on her journey to England. I tidied my drawer in the morning and then painted the view of the French Embassy. General Klapka 1 and Dr Dickson came to lunch. The General came to see me but is not yet well enough to come to his meals. At 4 played tennis with Henry and the secretaries. Mr Rawson arrived about 5 o'clock to stay with us. Messrs Malet, Kennedy and Cartwright dined with us. Sang choruses in the evening. Thursday 22nd August. Went on with Aimée's portrait which Ida and Mr Rawson pasted scraps in my book for me. In the middle of luncheon Mrs ^ Hungarian general.

- 134 Willie Hanson came from Kandilli to pay me a visit. At 3.30 Henry, Mr Malet and I went on board the Antelope to go to Halki leaving Mrs Willie with the girls. I had a very bad headache and laid down in the deck cabin till 5 o'clock when I had to dress for dinner. About a quarter to 6 we arrived at Halki and at 6 we landed at the Naval College to dine with the Captan Pasha. It was a dinner given to us and the Fleet. We found the company assembled in the garden and the only other ladies were Woods Bey's wife and Mrs Fawcett and Mrs Smythe. There were a great many English and Turkish naval officers and I suppose we sat down between 50 and 60 but it was near 7 when we all were assembled. The two Turkish bands played by turns all during dinner time. The Captan Pasha took me to table and I sat between him and Ali Pasha who interpreted between me and the C. Pasha who has only a slight knowledge of English. The dinner was long and my head ached so I was glad when the end approached. The room we dined in was the apartment belonging to the Sultan, a good square room and the table was a horseshoe one. On the other side of the Captan Pasha sat Mrs Fawcett and Mrs Woods did the honours with Henry and the Admiral on either side of her. At the close of the dinner the Captan Pasha gave the health of the Queen, then Henry gave the "Sultan", then Mehmed Pasha gave "Lady I.ayard and the Ladies", then the Admiral gave "the Turkish Navy", followed by Ahmed Pasha who gave the "English Navy" and Mr Fawcett gave Rauf Pasha and the Turkish Army. These toasts were received by cheers on either side. It did not take long doing and no thanks were returned. After dinner we went down to the garden and sat on the steps of the kiosque to see the fireworks which were very good although we were too near to appreciate them and were rather stifled with the smoke of them. About a quarter to 10 people began to arrive for the ball and at 10 we went up to open it. It took place in the same room we dined in and which had all been cleaned out of the dining tables. I danced with General Rauf Pasha a quadrille and then we left and went on board the Antelope. We got home after 1 o'clock and I slept all the way, being very tired and having still a headache. Brought the Admiral here with us. Friday 23rd August. Sang and played with the d'Ehrenhoff and Mr Rawson. Made pincushions and arranged the Burrs' rooms and stayed with Ida who had a headache and laid down in my room. At 5 they went with their father down to town in the steam launch which was going to fetch the Burrs who were to arrive by the French steamer. The girls were sorry to leave us after their long stay. Mr Malet and Mr Kennedy dined with us and played whist with the Admiral in the evening. We watched for the steam launch but it did not come.

- 135 Saturday 24th August. Before I was dressed the Burrs 1 and Miss Scobell 2 arrived. They had not come in last night till an hour too late to land. The Squire has the gout unhappily. Sat talking to Mrs Burr all the morning after taking a walk with her and Henry and Miss Scobell and the Admiral. In the afternoon we played tennis. Capts Heneage and Fitzroy called and when they left they took the Admiral back to Prinkipo with them. Count Zichy, Mr Ashenburnham and Lord George dined with us. Sang to Zichy Spanish and German songs. Sunday 25th August. After breakfast I went into Mrs Burr's room and we began to talk and went on and on till we were surprised by the luncheon bell. After luncheon heard Jerry's catechism till 3.30 when we went out in the second caique, Mrs Burr and Miss Scobell and the General and Mr Malet. We landed at (,'ubuklu and had coffee and narghileh and then went on in the caique to Canlidja and landed and walked up the hill to Fuad Pasha's ruined kiosque and down into Korfez valley the other side of the hill. We went up the valley to the tortoise pond and up the side of the hill along the cypress avenue and back to the caique. We got home just in time to dress for dinner. Mr Mackenzie Wallace, Capt. Wingfield, the General, Mr Lewison Gower, Mr Cartwright, Mr Ashenburnham, Mr Kennedy, Lord George, Mr Sandison, Mr Malet dined with us. Settled to go to the dance on board the Achilles on Tuesday. Monday 26th August. Worked at Turkish the whole morning. The Salamis came up after luncheon bringing the Admiral and Lady Hornby and 3 girls and Mr Winslow. Just after lunch a lot of transports full of Russian troops passed and one with a band on board played "God save the Queen" en passant and we waved our handkerchiefs to them in return. We were not sure whether it was politeness or bravado. We went and played lawn tennis with the Admiral and Mr Winslow and had tea in the grove. Miss Blanche Bilinsky came to stay with us and arrived about 6. At 7 the Hornby returned to the Salamis and came back in the evening to our dance. We had a large party and the dancing was kept up till 12.30. We hear that 12.000 Russians left S. Stefano today. I had a long letter from Lady Somers telling all about Lady Henry Somerset's miserable affair. Tuesday 27lh August. Had Turkish lesson which took up all the morning. At 4.30 Henry and Miss Scobell, Blanche Bilinsky and all the secretaries except Mr Ashenburnham and Mr Wallace and Mr Sandison embarked on the Antelope and we left the Burrs at home together while we went off to Prinkipo to go to the dance on board the Achilles. It was a lovely 1

D.H. Burr M.P.

2Unable to identify.

- 136 calm afternoon and just as we got there the sun set gorgeously. Henry and I went off to the Salamis to call on Lady Hornby and then I had to dress quickly and we dined and directly after went to the ball. Capt. Heneage received us most politely and the ship looked lovely roofed over with flags and hung with hundreds of lamps and even chandeliers which I afterwards found out were lent out of a Greek church. Henry did not stay beyond 11 o'clock but I and the young ladies remained till 2 and they enjoyed themselves very much. We slept on board the Antelope. Wednesday 28th August. We set off for Therapia about 6 A.M. and found ourselves at home for breakfast. Sat working and talking to Mrs Burr as she painted all the morning. After lunch I was so tired I had to lie down and rest till dinner time. Mrs Burn undertook to receive the Admiral, Lady Hornby and the 3 Misses Hornby who arrived to stay with us. We went rather early to bed. Thursday 29th August. Wrote and then went to sketch in the garden with Mrs Burr till luncheon. At 4 a large party of our guests went out riding and as soon as Mrs Burr and I had tea we went off for a walk out at the stable gate over the hill behind and got round down by the Biiyiikdere road but had to scramble down a very precipitous place to get down and even to cling to the brambles by the side of the path which was most absurd and caused us to laugh tremendously. We got home about 7 in time to rest before dinner. Capt. Egerton dined with us and afterwards the secretaries made their appearance and we sang choruses all the evening till 11.30. Friday 30th August. Very hot day. Mrs Burr and 1 sketched in the garden till luncheon when Capt. Day of the Falcon and Capt. Pollard of the Rupert came and lunched with us. Afterwards we returned to our sketching and Mr Wallace came to us and sat there till Zichy and his two sons, one a priest, came to call when I had to entertain the sons and sat in the garden talking. The Hornby girls went out in the Salamis boat to go and take tea on the Giant's Mountain. The Admiral and Lady Hornby rode. Mr Dumerique 1 dined with us. The young ladies returned in the middle of dinner only. Went to Mrs Fawcett's dance. Saturday 31st August. The Admiral and Lady Hornby returned to Prinkipo in the Salamis and the Salamis came back here at 5 o'clock. I had my Turkish lesson. The d'Ehrenhoff girls came back to spend the day and little Robin Hornby, Ida and I helped the Squire to make cigarettes. It was such a hot day that we could not even play tennis. At 6 the girls went off in a caique taking Blanche Bilinsky who was calling with them to the Khedive's garden

' Unable to identify.

- 137 to play tennis there. Aimée and Ida returned home at 4.30. Whist in the evening. Sunday 1st September. Ct. Zichy came early and breakfasted with us. I and Henry walked in the garden. At 11 we had service read by the Squire. In the afternoon the whole party except me went in the caïque and the Salamis steam cutter to the Genoese castle. I remained at home to read, drew ships and wrote letters. Embassy to dinner as usual all but Mr Kennedy who dined out. Monday 2nd September. I and Mrs Burr after breakfast went off in the caique to Çubuklu to begin a sketch of the place. The wind rose while we were there and we were some time getting home. Henry sent the Salamis steam launch for us which met us and towed us part of the way home. Had our usual dance. Mr Winslow came up for the dance and piano. Tuesday 3rd September. Went to a picnic in the forest of Belgrade given us by the General. Henry and Mrs Burr and I went in our carriage, the General, the Squire, Mme Bilinsky and Jerry in another. All the young ladies including Miss Bilinsky and the officers of the Salamis rode there starting an hour before us. We found the table spread under some chestnut trees near the bend. After luncheon Mrs Burr and I quickly set to work to make a sketch. At 5 we had tea and then started home which we reached in an hour, having had a delightful day. Wednesday 4th September. At 10 o'clock we embarked on board the Salamis and went down to town. The Admiral and Lady Hornby joined us there and they and the Burrs went to visit the mosques and the Treasury. Henry and I went to the Austrian Embassy to lunch with Zichy and to see his camélias. It was very hot in town. There were his two sons and Baron Herbert and his dragoman there at lunch. Afterwards we went to the Embassy and took Zichy with us to choose a place in our garden in case we should want to plant camélias. The d'Ehrenhoff girls came to meet me there and helped me to look for books and things I wanted. Mme Triandafilides came to see me to tell me she and her husband were going off to Cyprus. We returned on board the Salamis at 4 o'clock and went home. After leaving us at Therapia the Salamis returned to Prinkipo taking the Hornbys with it and so the 3 girls left us today. Found Mr Cartwright returned from Gallipoli and he dined with us. Thursday 5 th September. Mrs Burr and I breakfasted at 8 and went off to Çubuklu in the steam launch to paint and stayed despite a tremendous wind that was blowing till 1 o'clock. Being Ramadan there were few people about; a short time before we left the mullah of the village came and offered to sit for his portrait and Mrs Burr made a scribble of him. We had a very rough journey home and had to disembark at the hotel and walk from there. We got

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in after 2 and found every one waiting for us to go to luncheon. Painted again indoors in the afternoon and went out to the tennis ground. Mr Loftus the messenger dined with us. Friday 6th September. I was tired and got up late. Drove to Biiyiikdere with Mr and Mrs Burr and got out in the meadow and began a sketch of the Godfrey de Bouillon group of trees but it was very windy at got chilly. Ct. Zichy, Sir Henry Drummond Wolff and Lord Donoughmore 1 dined with us. Saturday 7lh September. Had my Turkish lesson. The d'Ehrenhoff girls came down for the day. Henry and I, the Burrs and Sir H. Drummond Wolff went waiting for the steam launch to go off to Hisar to see Ahmed Vefik when the Salamis arrived bringing the Admiral and Lady Hornby and the girls and we gave up going and went to play tennis and have tea. The Hornbys left at 5 and we then had a visit from the new German ambassador Count Hatzfeldt and Count Radolinski. Today came the news of the dreadful murder of Mehmed Ali Pasha by the Albanians which grieved us excessively as we were very fond of him. Sunday 8th September. Henry and I took a walk after breakfast in the garden. Marquetta came with gewgaws from the Bazaars in which Mrs Burr and Mellony invested. The Squire read the service to us. Sir H. Drummond Wolff came to lunch and afterwards we all went in the mouche to Hisar. I dropped the party there and went on to Kandilli to call on Mrs Willie Hanson and see her new baby. She was on the sofa but had fever and was looking ill. From there I went back to Hisar and went up to the Pasha's. Found them in the library. We went into the harem to visit the ladies and dressed Mellony in the ya§mak. Did not get home till 7. The Embassy all except Mr Ashenburnham who is ill dined and Sir H. Drummond Wolff and Mr Walpole also. Monday 9th September. Walked in the garden with Henry and then he took me and Mrs Burr to the Pine terrace to look for a place to draw. We chose a spot and went and sketched till luncheon. Afternoon we went to the Secretaries' garden and Mr Malet got us some refugee children to make studies of. The poor little things were very good and quiet for a couple of hours when with a few pence and some cakes we sent them home. We went into Mr Malet's rooms and he gave me his play in blank verse "The Queen of Cyprus" which I took home and read with much pleasure as it is really very prettily written. Came home and Mrs Burr and I took tea in my room. Usual reception with dancing in the evening. Tuesday 10th September. Had my Turkish lesson. The d'Ehrenhoff girls came to spend the day. I went up to the Pine terrace to paint after my lesson. ' The latter two were British members of the Eastern Rumelia Commission.

- 139 At luncheon Mellony Scobell and Ida appeared in their habits and said they were going to ride with Mr Kennedy. It seemed to us odd as Henry could not go with them I had to forbid it and send back Mr Kennedy with his horses. 1 returned to paint a little and then went to play tennis. In the middle of the game Mrs Radolinski called. Mr Kennedy and Malet dined with us. At 9.30 we went out for a moonlit row in the 6-oared caique. It was lovely. We went as far as Canlidja and back by 11.30. Wednesday 11lh September. At 9.30 Henry went in the Antelope to Biiyiikdere to compliment Lobanoff on the Emperor's birthday and then came back and the Burrs, Miss Scobell, Sir H. Drummond Wolff and Lord Donoughmore and the General joined him. He had taken up Ct Hatzfeldt at Biiyiikdere and we went down to visit the Admiral at Prinkipo. We got down at 11.30 and went on board the Alexandra. Found Lady and Miss Hornby there. They gave us lunch and then I sat talking to Lady Hornby and Capt. Heneage while Hatzfeldt and the Burrs went round the ship. We then went off in the boat and had to lay on our oars while a salute was fired for Hatzfeldt. We landed at the house the Hornbys are living in lent them by the banker Zarifi and sat in the garden where tea was served. I had a headache all day and by this time it had got very bad so I could take no tea. I went into the house just to see it and then we went down to the boat and sailed to the Antelope and at 4.30 started home. I laid on the sofa and slept most of the way and when we got in at 7.301 went straight to bed. Thursday 12th September. Stayed in bed to rest myself all the morning. Miss Maynard came to bid me goodbye as she is going to be married on Wednesday and to leave for France taking her mother with her. Afternoon I got on the sofa and dressed and went down to dinner in the evening. Lord George and Mr L. Gower dined. Friday 13th September. Copied letters for Henry to send by the messenger as Mr Ashenburnham is ill and they are short of hands. Painted. Directly after lunch Mrs Burrs and I set off in the steam launch for Hisar and we went up to Ahmed Vefik Pasha's to sketch. We were going to sit outside the garden when he came out himself and persuaded us to go at once to his terrace where we began a sketch and had coffee and tea and very amusing talk from him till Henry, the General, Miss Scobell and the Squire arrived. We took a turn about the garden and then went in. The Pasha who looked patriarchal in his grey cashmere robe lined with sables and under a striped white and black cotton one, sat with his watch in his hand waiting for the gun which announced the sunset. As soon as he heard it we went to dinner and partook of a real Turkish meal which barring the soup was very trying. In an outer room there was another table for those who arrived after the gunfire and

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below stairs a third, five altogether including two tables in the Harem. After an interminable dinner we retired to chibouques and nargilehs and at 9 set off home. The Pasha accompanied us to the little square near his house where he was going to mosque and we rounded our way down the hill to the steam launch. It was full moon and we had a lovely journey home. Mellony and I had tea to settle our stomach after our strange meal and then we went to bed. Saturday 14th September. Woke feeling very shaky but I got up to breakfast. Mr and Mrs Burr went off to Hisar sketching and only returned to dinner. Had my Turkish lesson. Henry went off to Yildiz to see the Sultan before luncheon. Just as I and Mellony were finishing lunch Capt. Heneage arrived to stay with us. We gave him lunch and then went out to the tennis ground. Mr Kennedy and Mr L. Gower joined us and we played cribbage under the Squire's direction. Sunday 15th September. Woke with a face ache and did not get up till 11. The Squire read prayers to us. Dr Dickson came to lunch. I took quinine and retired to my room. The others went out to Kandilli in the 6-oared caique and came in late. It rained a little in the afternoon but not enough to keep people in. 1 did not go down to dinner as my face was still bad. Monday 16th September. Face better, only got up to luncheon. At luncheon my face got worse again and I had to retire to my room and kept quite quiet. Mr and Mrs Burr went out sketching. The others went out for a long ride. The Hornbys who were to have come sent word they had given it up. Usual dance in the evening. Some queer English people, Mr and Mrs and Miss Currie1 drove all the way from Pera for the occasion, queer people — going on to winter in Rome. Tuesday 17111 September. Much better and up early. Took Turkish lesson. Mr and Mrs Burr went off in steam launch to spend the day in Kandilli. When my master was gone I went out on the terrace to paint and Mellony sat with me till lunch. Visits from Mme Herbert and Mme Kallay 2 . At 5 o'clock I had to dress to go to town to dine with Zichy who gave his great dinner to Hartzfeldt. At 5.30 Capt. Wingfield fetched us and put us on board the Petrel and we went down with the Fourniers, Dolez and Galvagna. It was a warm calm day. We landed at Tophane and went up in an open carriage. All the Corps Diplomatique and M. and Mme Kallay dined. Mme Hatzfeldt was very much admired and considered charming. She is very dark with good eyes blackened to bring them out but her features are nowhere. 1 should call her a belle laide. At 10 we left and got safely on board by moonlight and calm evening. 10 minutes after it began to rain and blow hard 1 Unable to identify. rt

B. von Kallay Austro-Hungarian member of the Eastern Rumelia Commission.

- 141 and we had a great thunderstorm. It was very dark and the Petrel went very slowly so that it was nearly one before we got home. For fear of spoiling my dress I took it off and left it on board and came in my shawls. The steam launch met us and landed us all, a happy thought of Capt. Wingfield's but it was not easy to effect. It blew hard all night. Wednesday 18th September. It was still blowing but not raining when we got up and we breakfasted early and Henry and I went off in the brougham to town to attend Miss Maynard and Mr Kidder's 1 wedding. We got there just as the bride arrived. The Memorial Church was full and there were Zichy and Corti there and later Mokhsin Khan arrived. The bride looked very pretty. The American service was read which is like ours only shorter. The church was nicely decorated with flowers we sent. Henry, Zichy and I went into the vestry to sign the register. We then got away as soon as we could and left the bride taking leave of her friends as they go away to Marseilles today and take the mother with them. We went to the Embassy for an hour while the horses put up and then drove home and got luncheon joined by Sir H. Drummond Wolff. At 3 the old Nawab of Oude turned up with three servants and we had some difficulty in settling him in his room to his satisfaction: he wanted to sleep down in the servants' passage. Read and worked until the evening and about 7 the Salamis arrived bringing Admiral and Lady Hornby. Thursday 19th September. Studied and wrote Turkish. In the course of the morning I received a message that the Nawab wanted me in his room. I went up and he placed me in a chair and proceeded to take out of a canvass bag a gold bead necklace which he tied round my neck and he then tied on each arm a bracelet to match, put me on a belt and an emerald ring on one hand and a diamond on the other. After which he kissed me on both cheeks and sent me away with a parcel for Mrs Burr containing bracelets and a brooch. The Nawab drove off to Stamboul for the day and did not come back till about 10 at night. A large riding party went out after lunch. Mr and Mrs Burr went off to sketch and the Admiral and Lady Hornby to walk and I took a short walk in the garden. It was stormy all day and threatened rain. Friday 20th September. Copied Henry's letters to go by the Messenger which took me till 11. Aimée d'Ehrenhoff came down to spend the day. I went to paint on the terrace till 1 when we lunched. In the middle of lunch a Col. Holme 2 came to call and joined us and then Mr Washburn of the Robert College and the Squire went to the side table and gave him his place. Directly after lunch a large party went off riding a paper chase. I went off to the Khedive's garden with the Burrs and Jerry to carry the bags, to sketch. There 1

J.H. Kidder, a US surgeon and naturalist. Unable to identify.

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we were joined by Henry and Sir Henry Drummond Wolff and afterwards met the General and then Mr Malet. When we got to the gates of the garden we hailed an Antelope boat; while waiting Mr Ashenburnham came up and then Parniss Efendi and the latter said he would fetch us to go out fishing in half an hour. We found all the servants at the gate in a hubbub. It appears that Herbert, Mr Kennedy's servant had been sent out with the paper bags for the hunt and told to wait on the road. He had been attacked by three soldiers who with knives at his throat took his money and watch from him. The three Hornby girls, Mellony, the Squire and I went out fishing with Mr and Miss Parniss. I caught three liifer, Miss E. Hornby one. The Squire entertained us the while with comic songs. We returned to dinner. After dinner (Sir H. Drummond Wolff dined) the "Coal Hole" en masse came in and we had choruses till bedtime. Mr Chermside sang the solos. Saturday 21st September. The steam cutter went down to bring up Lady Dickson and May Boyd, the latter went to Mrs W. Hanson's till Monday as we cannot take her in. I had my Turkish lesson. We lunched at 1. Musurus Pasha came to call and lunched with us. Directly after Henry and all the party excepting me went away in the Salamis, the Admiral to return to the Alexandra, the young people to go to a cricket match at Kadikoy and Henry, the Burrs and Lady Hornby to go to the Scutari burying ground. At 3.30 I went out in the carriage to pay visits. Went to Buyukdere but found no one at home. As I was looking for Mme Muzaffer Bey's she drove by in a poney carriage and stopped to tell me she had been twice to see me. I told her I was in the act of looking for her house but I would return another day. I then drove to Yenikoy to call on Mme Fernandez who was out so I came back and had tea and waited for fishing time. Virginia Parniss came to say her father would fetch me so I dressed and then later she came to say he could not get a caique so I settled to read. A few moment after she fetched me in the found caique and we went out but caught nothing and when we saw the Salamis come in we did the same. Sunday 22nd September. The Squire read service for us. Lunched at 1 and I and Henry set off in the steam cutter, Henry to call on Musurus Pasha and I on the Caratheodorys who were all at home. After seeing them I went to Kandilli and sent the cutter back for Henry. I went up to Mrs Willy's room and sat with her and May till Henry fetched me. The Burrs and Hornbys went over to walk at Beykoz and to tea on board the Salamis. Hatzfeldt, Sir Henry Drummond Wolff and Sir C. and Lady Dickson dined with us but not the Embassy as usual as we were too large a party. It is said the Russians leave San Stefano tomorrow and the Turkish police are to take possession.

- 143 Monday 23rd September. The Squire and Mrs Burr went off directly after breakfast to Constantinople. They are to stop there today and go off to Broussa early tomorrow morning, leaving Mellony with us. It was a very hot muggy day. 1 went to the Pine terrace to work at my sketch and Lady Hornby accompanied me. Henry went in the mouche to Safvet Pasha's and called for May Boyd and brought her from Kandilli to stay with us. We had a thunderstorm in the afternoon but when it was over some of the party rode and some of us walked in the garden. We had our last dance this evening. A lot of people came and it was very lively. Tuesday 24th September. Though it rained in the night heavily it cleared up and it was a lovely day. We went for a picnic up the Giant's Mountain. We were 19 in the party, the Hornbys 4, Miss Scobell, Count Hatzfeldt, the General, Capt. Wingfield, Mr Heathcote and Mr Kay, Capt. Egerton, Mr Dumerique, Mr Woods and another officer of the Salamis, Mr Kennedy, Mr L. Gower and Mr Cartwright. Some walked, some rode ponies and some went in the painted and gilt araba of the country. We reached the top at 1.30 and went through the camp to a place near the little mosque or Jonas' tomb as it is called. The soldiers brought the mattings out of the mosque and we also spread carpets and our table cloth where we had a lovely view all down the Bosphorus. After luncheon Lady Hornby and I set to work to make a little sketch and then we went down to the Sultan's kiosk whither the young people had preceded us and took tea on the balcony of the kiosque and then set off back to Beykoz where the boats were. We got home about 6. Mr Smijth and Mr Sandison dined with us. Wednesday 25th September. Lovely weather, hot and South wind. Spent morning on terrace painting and the 2 elder Misses Hornbys with me. After lunch Hatzfeldt came and Henry took him to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha. All the young people went out for a paper chase on horse back except Miss Boyd. Lady Hornby also stayed in and we three had tea in my room as I had to lie down feeling rather tired. At 6 Mrs and Miss Parniss came and I coiffed Miss C. for the ball at the French Embassy. In the evening we went to the ball and I came home about 11.30. The others stayed till nearly 3. Thursday 26"' September. The Hornbys left us in the Salamis to return to Prinkipo as the Fleet leaves for Ortakoy on Saturday. I went to paint for an hour on the pine terrace and Mellony sat with me. Dr. Dickson and Sir H. Drummond Wolff lunched with us. At 3 after a visit from Mr Foster went out in the Victoria with Mellony to pay visits at Biiyukdere. Found no one in and went to call on Lady Dickson at Petala's. Found her at home; after seeing her we went home and played lawn tennis with the secretaries. Mr Malet and Mr

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Smijth dined with us and afterwards the whole "coal hole" came in and we had choruses till 11.30. Friday 27th September. Wrote letters to send by messenger. Admiral Commerall came to see us to bid good bye and stayed to luncheon as well as Mr Gresley. Mellony and I practised singing. It came on to rain hard after luncheon. They went to Kandilli after breakfast and returned at 3. The steam cutter which took down the messenger brought up Musurus Pasha and Mme Alex. Caratheodory and M. and Mme Constantine Caratheodory. They stayed some time and we gave them tea. When they were gone, we had a practise of songs with Mr Cartwright, Mr Leveson Gower and Mr Chermside till nearly dinner time. The General and Lady Dickson dined with us. Sang in the evening. Saturday 28th September. Walked in the garden with Henry. Went to paint on the Pine terrace with Mallony. We found a fig tree and picked a lot of figs. We joined by Capt. Stopford and Captain Day of the Condor and Mr Hornby (the Admiral's eldest son) a good looking youth. They lunched with us. We all went out to play tennis but were driven home by the rain and had to have tea indoors. Played with guitar with May. Henry and I went to dine with the Dolez. Met the Fourniers, Coundouriotis and his daughter and Hatzfeldt. In the evening they played a game of "secretaries" reinforced by Galvagna, the Verheaghes and 3 French secretaries. A pouring wet night, blowing hard. Sunday 29th September. Painted all the morning. Henry went to Yildiz to see the Sultan. It was still blowing. In the afternoon it cleared and May and Mellony went out for a walk with the gentlemen of the Chancery and I retired to my room and read till dinner time. About 6 o'clock the Burrs turned up from Broussa very tired having left at 3 in the morning and having eaten nothing since. Henry returned from Yildiz about 7. He said he had been 4 hours with H.M. who had shown him all his favourite horses and offered him one which he declined. He said that H.M. had 2 chairs brought out one for himself and one for Henry and had the horses brought out and ridden one by one to show their paces. He also showed his cows and pheasants etc. Sir C. and Lady Dickson, Mr Malet, Mr Sandison, Mr L. Gower, Lord G. Montague, Mr Smijth dined with us. Monday 30lh September. Painted the whole morning till lunch. Dr Dickson and [blank] came to lunch. Afterwards as I had got a headache I went to lay down but afterwards went and sat with Mrs Burr and had tea in her room. At 5 I and Mrs Burr went to fish with the Parniss but caught nothing and came in at dinner.

- 145 Tuesday l s l October. Had Turkish lesson and then went up to Pine terrace to join Mrs Burr painting and put the figures into our pictures. Lunched at one and then returned to work. Expected Princess Nazli but she sent word she was ill. Played tennis. At 6 went out fishing. 3 small fish were caught but not by me. Came home to dinner. As we went by the Refugees house saw all the men in two rows under a tree saying the evening prayer. It was very impressive their meeting there in the open air to pray to God in the sight of all. They all wore country dresses and the white turban and prayed aloud. Mr Malet and Mr Smijth dined. Wednesday 2nd October. [No entry], Thursday 3rd October. Directly after breakfast Mrs Burr and I set off in the caique to go to the Sweet Waters of Asia to make a sketch and only returned to luncheon at 2. Henry sent the steam launch to fetch us and we got into it at Yenikoy. The Squire and I went out fishing with Mr Parniss for the last time together. Hobart Pasha arrived to stay with us. We had a dinner party to the Roumelian commission, Sir H. Drummond Wolff and Lord Donoughmore, M. and Mme Kallay (the Austrian), le Baron de Moiiy, M. de Ring (the French), Mr Cartwright and Mr Walpole. Music in the evening. Friday 4th October. Wrote letters for the messenger bag and copied for Henry. Directly after luncheon Henry and I, Miss Boyd, the Burrs, Miss Scobell, Hill, Giovanni and Jerry embarked in the Antelope and went down to town. Henry called on Hayreddin Pasha 1 , he was out so we went on to see Princess Nazli and found her in. We then went up to Pera to call on Countess Zichy but although we had made an appointment they were out so we went to call on the Ehrenhoffs. We found May and Mellony there and for fear Mellony would be late for her steamer for Trieste we did not pay a long visit but carried them off and took her to join Mr and Mrs Burr in their steamer and then went on board the Antelope. We saw the Trieste steamer go off before we started for Artaki. We left about 6 and steamed slowly all night. Saturday 5 th October. About 7 A.M. we anchored at Artaki. Directly after breakfast the Admiral called and about 11 we all went on shore and walked up the hill to look down upon the town of Artaki. Lady Hornby and I sat down and sketched while the others walked about. We returned on board for luncheon. After luncheon the Admiral and Lady Hornby called for me and Henry and we went with Capt. Grubbe, Admiral Commerall, Capt. Fitzroy, Lord George Montague and Mr Kennedy in the steam launch and landed at some little distance to walk to some ruins which were told to be some of the remains of ancient Cysicus. We came to some splendid ruins on two hills on each side of a torrent which Henry pronounced to be a naumachia, or place ' The future grand vizier.

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where sea fights used to be held. It would be filled with water from the torrent which was dammed up. We had some difficulty in climbing up so as to get a view of it to make a hasty sketch but in at last succeeded. On our way down we found tea prepared for us by Manning, the Admiral's old cockswain. We returned to the Antelope at 7 o'clock when it was near dark but the sunset was lovely all gold and purple but not so fine as the sunset of yesterday year which we saw coming home from Troy. We dined with Admiral Hornby. After dinner the Hornby girls came and the young ladies danced till after 11 o'clock. Sunday 6th October. May and I went to service on boar the Agincourt and stayed to the communion. Lunched on board the Antelope. Afterwards we set off in the steam launch and landed to take a walk. We went through lovely well cultivated country with good grapes, olives, meddlars, walnuts etc. We took a long walk up to a place called Edincik where every house had some stone or pillar taken from an ancient building. There is a picturesque market place where there is an old Khan most of which rests upon splendid old columns turned up side down, the capitals resting on the ground. We went right through the town to the other side where there is a view of the country and a large lake. A man begged us to go into his house where he showed us a funeral bas-relief rather pretty but small and for which he asked £10. Henry offered him £3 which he refused. We sat for a few minutes near an enormous sycamore in the village and had coffee and I made a little sketch. We got tea on the sea shore and then went back and dined on the Antelope. Monday 7th October. After breakfast we landed and found ponies waiting for us. I had a poney lent by the Bishop of Artaki. Henry rode a splendid white donkey. We had 2 zaptiyes for guide and protection and Admiral Hornby, Henry and I, Mr Winslow, Mr Kennedy, Lord George, Miss Essie Hornby, Miss Boyd, Mr Jenner the Interpreter composed the party. We rode through Artaki and through the country up a high hill. We intended going to the top of the highest hill but the guides made a mistake and took us only to the top of a hill where there were the ruins of a castle and we got there about 12.30. We had a little way to walk through the arbutus shrubs but we found a lovely spot at the castle and there we opened our basket of provisions and had our luncheon and then all laid back on the grass and rested while I picked cistus seeds to send to the Squire. Along our road home we returned as we came, there were peasants driving ponies with baskets laden with grapes of which they offered us large bunches as we passed. We got back to the Antelope a little after 5 and had time to rest before we went to dine with Admiral Sir Ed. Commerall. Met the Hornbys and several of the Captains at dinner. Saw the white kitten I had given the Admiral romping with the

- 147 retriever puppy. As we rode home today we passed a shed whence came a smell of burnt sugar so I rode in and found men making a kind of molasse out of the grapes. As soon as we returned to the Antelope I went to bed and about 11 o'clock we started home steaming all night. It was rather a rough night. Tuesday 8lh October. We did not reach Therapia till 12.30. It was cold drizzly weather but towards the evening it cleared and we walked in the garden. Wednesday 9111 October. I went out and painted in the terrace. May cut out garments for the refugees. In the afternoon we played lawn tennis. Hobart Pasha came to stay with us. Henry and I dined at the French Embassy, an official dinner given to Hatzfeldt. Thursday 10th October. 1 and May cut out things for refugees and I painted in the garden. After lunch as Henry was going to call on Halim Pasha in the steam cutter I decided to go and call on his wife. We found them at home she gave me coffee and rose syrup in a gold bowl the top of which was a mass of diamonds. When we got home Henry played tennis and I went and wrote for tomorrow's post. Wrote a long letter to Lady Ely 1 to condole on the death of Sir Thomas Biddulph which is a great loss to the Queen. We had a dinner party to Musurus Pasha and there also dined Safvet Pasha, Mme Caratheodory Pasha and her two sisters, Miss Musurus, Hayreddin Pasha the Tunisian who has lately arrived and is in great favour with the Sultan. He is a big man with a grave countenance and his beard and whiskers are died jet black which gives him a curious look. He speaks English exceedingly well. We had also Kamil Bey, Serkis Efendi, Savas Pasha and Ali Fuad Bey, the Sultan's secretary, Sir Alfred Sandison and Mr Malet. The Musurus came and went in our cutter which we sent for them. Musurus told me the Sultan had ordered him to telegraph to England to get the Queen's permission for me to accept the Order of Mercy which the Sultan had instituted on purpose for me in remembrance of the work for the refugees and which for the last 6 months he had been offering me. Friday 11th October. Wrote for the post. Mr Kennedy had returned home with us and we left Lord George at the Fleet. Princess Nazli came to spend the day with us and lunched with me in the drawing room with Jerry to wait on us. I introduced Hobart Pasha to her and they talked a long time together. Hatzfeldt and the Radolinskis called while she was still there and I had to get them go away. The Princess herself left about 4 and then I went out to play tennis. Baker Pasha came to stay a day with us. In the evening I went out fishing, had sport.

1

A close friend of Queen Victoria.

- 148 Saturday 12th October. Henry went away after luncheon to see the Sultan. I played tennis with the secretaries. May went away to Kandilli to stay 2 nights with Mrs Willie Hanson. In the afternoon Mr Kennedy showed me a telegram from Lord Salisbury saying the Queen gives me permission to accept the Order of Mercy. Heniy returned to dinner. Sir C. and Lady Dickson dined with us. Sunday 13th October. Made Henry some cigarettes and talked to Hobart Pasha about his impending marriage. In the afternoon went in the garden with Henry. Mr Grace and Mehmed Bey came to see him there, afterwards we went round the garden together and there were joined by Sir H. Drummond Wolff and Mr Walpole and they came in and had tea with me in the boudoir. Hatzfeldt, Mr Gifford Palgrave (a horrid looking man, half convict, half Jesuit in appearance just named Consul General of Bulgaria), Sir H. Drummond Wolff, Lord Donoughmore, Hobart Pasha, Ct Pisani, Mr Malet, Sir A. Sandison, Mr Smijth, Mr Lewison Gower, Lord George and Mr Kennedy made our party at dinner. Monday 14th October. I painted all the morning. While we were at luncheon, May Boyd and Mr Willy turned up. I went out for a drive with Henry as far as Maslak. It was a lovely day and the hills were beautifully coloured with purple heather and brown dead fern. The others stayed and played tennis. I wanted to have gone fishing with Mr Smijth but no caique was ordered. Ct Zichy, the Parniss and Mr Kennedy dined with us. In the evening Lord Donoughmore and Mr Cartwright joined us and we sang and made a good deal of noise trying over quartets. Tuesday 15th October. Painted out of doors all the morning. Directly after luncheon May and I went off in the mouche to Kabata§ to call on Mrs Hilmi Pasha. We found her at home and were shown into a small room darkened with blue calico blinds; in a corner there was a small sofa covered with dark blue silk on which lay Mme Hilmi in a black dress with a black cap on her head. At her side was a small table with medicines and a French novel the name of which was La morte vivante1. Poor Mme Hilmi spoke at once of her trouble in the loss of her eldest child from typhoid last winter since which she had evidently given herself up to her grief. After some time she revived and on my offering to send the mouche for her one day next week she consented to come and see me. We got home about dark. I changed my dress and in 5 minutes I started to fish with Mr Parniss. We caught nothing at all. Wednesday 16th October. May and I cut clothes for refugees all the morning. After lunch I went with Henry to call on the Fourniers and to beg her to take the Herberts down to the dinner which the Persian Ambassador ^ By Xavier de Montepin.

- 149 gives tonight in honour of Hatzfeldt as the Sultan has sent word for us to dine with him. I dressed at a quarter to 4 and at half past Henry, Sir Alfred Sandison and I went off to Dolmabah^e in the mouche giving Mr Prezziosi 1 a lift down. A cavass and carriage awaited us and took us up to Yildiz where we arrived on the stroke of sunset. Kamil Bey met us at the door and landed us upstairs when I took off my cloaks. I wore a white watered silk, the tablier embroidered in silk on crepe and trimmed with dark olive green, in my hair a diamond tiara. While waiting we talked to Safvet Pasha, Musurus Pasha, Mustafa Fosfor Pasha, Vesim Pasha, Osman Pasha, Hayreddin Pasha, Ali Fuad Bey, Rauf Pasha who were all to dine with H.M. A few minutes before dinner H.M. sent for us and after a few complimentary sentences began a little speech saying he had long wished I should be the first to receive the Order of Charity which he had instituted for ladies who had helped in the war to relieve the human sufferings and he was delighted I had received the Queen's permission to accept it and he begged me to let him clasp it himself on my neck. When Sir Alfred had translated this H.M. rose, opened a box of velvet with a star and crescent in gold on it and took out the order with its gold chain. He had some difficulty in opening the spring and after some fumbling for some time Sir Alfred showed him how to do it. His Majesty fastened it round my neck. I begged Sir Alfred to offer my grateful thanks and H.M. led the way to dinner putting me on his right, Henry on his left. I had Musurus Pasha who had to do the "tergiman" but whose Turkish was so bad he evidently did it with difficulty. During dinner a military band played. Afterwards, H.M. took me and Henry and Sir Alfred into a drawing room, and made me sit on the sofa near him. We had coffee and he and Henry smoked cigarettes. He also gave one to Sir Alfred saying, "One must smoke after eating". He also sent for Safvet Pasha and they had a long political talk. When tea was brought Safvet Pasha went away and we talked of other things. All the evening H.M.'s private string band played, the men sang choruses, one sang operatic airs, another the flute and another the violin. The Sultan promised me a cock canary and I promised him my Circassian goat. We had tea about 9.30 in gold cups but it was poor stuff to drink. At about 10 we asked permission to retire and went down to Dolmabah9e with an escort, got into the mouche and reached home about a quarter to 12. Had tea and got to bed. Thursday 17th October. Painted all the morning. The messenger arrived from Odessa (Mr Woodford). He and the Dicksons dined with us today. Friday 18th October. Wrote for the messenger who starts today. I wrote to Lady Ely to give her an account of what happened at the Palace 2 days ago 1 The Maltese water colourist.

- 150 for her to show to the Queen. Henry had visitors all the afternoon. I ordered the carriage to take us out for a drive but had to send it back as Mme Caratheodory arrived and so we went out with her instead to the tennis ground and there we had tea and were joined by Henry and Caratheodory Pasha and after by Mr Palgrave and Sir Henry Drummond Wolf. There was a great paper chase today, all Therapia went to it. May and Hobart Pasha went and enjoyed themselves. Saturday 19th October. Henry had to go off to see Safvet Pasha before 8 o'clock. There was a thick fog when he started. However it cleared about 9. He returned about 11 and I sat with him while he breakfasted and then went out and painted in the garden till lunch. Sophie Baltazzi came there to see me and then Henry Hanson who talked over church and other affairs. Musurus Pasha lunched with us. Hayreddin called. After lunch Henry and I went in the steam launch taking with us Musurus Pasha. We went to Hisar and sent on Musurus home. We found Ahmed Vefik at home. With him were Sir Henry Drummond Wolf and Mr Palgrave but they soon left. We took a turn in the garden and then came home. Sunday 20th October. I painted all the morning in the garden and May and Hobart Pasha came and sat with me. I painted till luncheon. After lunch had a visit from Capt. Day of Condor which has come up here on its way to Bourgas. About 3.30 May, the General, Henry and I went out in the 6-oared caique. We left Henry at Bebek at the Persian Ambassador's and went across to call on Mrs Willie Hanson. Met there Lord Donoughmore also Messrs Smijth and Lewison Gower. We brought the 2 latter home with us. Had Hatzfeldt, the Count, Sir Henry Drummond Wolff, Sir Alfred, Mr Malet, Mr Woodford, Lord George, Hobart Pasha, May, Mr Smijth, Lewison Gower, Mr Palgrave and Kennedy and Lord Donoughmore to dinner. The latter arrived late saying that as he was coming up in the caique after dark when near the Kalendar Kiosque they heard a shouting and nearing the shore in the dark 2 men told them that 2 robbers had jumped out and tried to rob them but on hearing the splash of the oars had made off. Monday 21st October. Got up late. Painted in the house. Henry went down to Safvet Pasha and brought back Ahmed Vefik Pasha with him to lunch. Mrs Arthur Hanson came to see us having returned from England last Friday. She did not stay long. Went out and superintended the cutting of branches of trees in the garden with Ahmed Vefik while the others played tennis. The General and Lady Dickson came also. Sat talking to Ahmed Vefik till dinner. Hobart Pasha left us and returned to town. Col. Home and Major Gordon came to dine and sleep.

- 151 Tuesday 22nd October. Ahmed Vefik was tired and anxious to return home so we sent him off in the 3-oared caique. Sent the steam cutter to fetch Mme Hilmi Pasha. She came about 1 o'clock. She and I had lunch alone in the drawing room but I found she would have gone to lunch as we do. Afterwards I took her out in the garden and we sat and watched the lawn tennis and she did not put on a ya§mak although Henry and the secretaries were there. She left at about 4 o'clock. We sent her in the caique. I played tennis with Henry for a short time and then came in and read till dinner. General and Lady Dickson dined with us. Ct Pisani returned to Pera today. Wednesday 23rd October. Mrs Willie Hanson arrived to spend the day and dine and sleep here. May went out to the paper chase directly after luncheon. I and Henry played tennis. Willie Hanson joined us. Gave him a song to Mrs Willie. Sir Alfred, Mr Smijth and Capt. Wingfield dined with us. Was made rather late for dinner by Jerry's naughtiness — running away and hiding under his bed— but I had to leave him to Hill. In the evening we went over to the "Coal hole" as we call the Secretaries house and had singing there till past 11. Mr Cartwright was there for the last time as he starts tomorrow for Philippopoli with Sir H. Drummond Wolff. Lord Donoughmore was also there and goes tomorrow. Thursday 24 ,h October. Before breakfast I had a great row with Jerry which resulted in his being sent off to prison on board the Antelope although he made piteous efforts to be let off. He flung himself on his knees, kissed my hands, got hold of my dress and said, "I want to live with you and if I go to the Antelope I shall never come back. Excellence says so and he always speaks truth". I said he might go and ask Excellence if he might return if he went to the Antelope quietly and Henry said it would depend on what the Captain said so he submitted and went off. Lord Donoughmore came to breakfast and then rode with May and Mrs Willie while I painted in the garden. After lunch Mrs A. Hanson came and brought Mrs Ogilvy, her brother's widow to be introduced, a young handsome woman with a terrible Smyrna accent. We played tennis. Afterwards May and I walked to the hotel to have tea with Sir Collingwood and Lady Dickson. Mrs Willie Hanson returned home. Messrs Woodford, Aburthnot and Malet dined with us. Friday 25"1 October. Got up at 6.15 and went out fishing near the Black Sea with May and Mr Parniss. We went in the steam launch as far as the Lazaretto of Kavak. There was a North wind and rather a swell. The caique we had towed up put down a long line with 300 hooks and then we set to work to fish with our lines. Mr Parniss caught a gurnet and I a skate when it suddenly began to blow and they said we must make off; so instead of leaving down the long line an hour, we had to take it up in 20 minutes and every

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moment the waves increased. We got 15 fish in the long line, turbot, soles, gurnets and skates. We then went round near Kavak village but it was near 10 and we thought we ought to go home which we reached in about half an hour. Had tea but I had to lie down having a bad headache and could not move till time to dress for dinner. Had a diplomatic dinner and wore my order for the first time. Lobanoff, Hatzfeldt, Fournier and Mme and Mlle, M. and Mile Condouriotis, Maynard, Galvagna, Mokhsin Khan, Kennedy and Malet dined which with ourselves and May made a party of 16. The Dicksons came in the evening. Saturday 26 th October. Had to stay in bed till about 4. Read Tancred and wrote to Mrs Burr. Aimée d'Ehrenhoff came to see me. Henry and May went to play tennis at the French Embassy. Hobart Pasha came to stay with us and gave us a record of his interview of this morning with the Sultan who is very low about the caïmé business. Mr Wallace, Sir Alfred, Mr Leweson Gower dined. Sunday 27 th October. Remained in bed till 4 o'clock and then went to boudoir sofa. Heard Jerry's catechism. Admiral Lyons, the Dicksons, the Count and the whole Embassy, Mr Baring included dined with us. Monday 28 th October. Henry went off to the Porte early. I did not get up till 12. May and I lunched alone. She played lawn tennis. Henry returned about 5 and had tea with me. Mr Foster, Mr Spry and Mr Kay of the Antelope dined with us. May played in the evening. Tuesday 29 th October. Up to breakfast. Painted in the garden. Mrs W. Hanson came to luncheon and then played tennis with May. I sat at home and painted. Had a visit from Mrs Parniss. Before dinner Mr Harrison 1 arrived to dine and sleep. He has been sent out to arrange Turkish finance. A respectable old party but horribly silent. At last I gave him the last newspaper and fled. Mr Foster, Sir Alfred, Mr Smith and Mr Kennedy dined. Had music in the evening. Wednesday 30"1 October. Painted out of doors. After lunch had a visit from Mme Carathéodory and a married sister. They came up by steamer. I went to Biiyiikdere to pay a visit in the caique and then offered them the caique to return home. Henry, May and the secretaries played tennis. I went up to see the cows milked. We dined quite alone with only May. In the evening she and I practised songs. Thursday 31 st October. May went to town. I copied for Henry till 12 and then went and painted in the garden. Musurus Pasha came to luncheon and afterwards we went out to play tennis. There we were joined by Hatzfeldt

1

Ed. Harrison, British member of the International Financial Commission.

- 153 and had tea. Read and instructed Jerry. The Dicksons, Sir Alfred, Mr Ashenburnham dined with us. Friday I s ' November. I and Hill went down to town in the mouche at about 9.30. We called at Kandilli and took up Mrs Henry and Mrs Willie and Hilda Hanson and Mrs Willie's baby and 2 nurses and went on to town to christen the baby. We arrived rather late and the baby cried loudly during the service. I, Mr Black and Mr Chermside were sponsors. The child was called Bertram Evelyn. I stayed to communion afterwards. Went to lunch with Aimée d'Ehrenhoff and her father. Met there Mile Wallstorm, the governess a nice person. After lunch Aimée and I went to our house and met Hill and after seeing to some things we went to Mehmed Ali Khan at 3 o'clock and there met Mrs Hanson. We came home dropping the baby and Mrs Hanson at Kandilli. Rested and taught Jerry. Captain Day, Capt. McCalmont, Mr Smijth, Mr Kennedy dined with us. Saturday 2nd November. Painted in the garden. May went to Kandilli with Henry Hanson who happened to call here. Zichy came to luncheon. At 3 we played tennis till 4.30. Went with Mr Smijth to the hotel to call on Lady Dickson who has just lost her mother, Mrs Burnaby at the age of 90. From there Mr Smijth and I went fishing with the Misses Parniss and caught 24 small liifers and got back a little late for dinner. Hobart Pasha came to stay with us. Mr Lewison Gower, Mr Malet and Mr Smijth dined with us. I sang. Sunday 3"* November. Breakfasted alone with Henry. Hobart Pasha not up. Gave finishing touches to sketches of the house. Very hot day and I had a headache all day. Went out in the garden with Henry for a short time. Came in and read. At dinner time felt so bad I thought I must go to bed but I struggled through the evening. Besides 7 from the Chancery had Hatzfeldt and Mr Prezziosi to dinner. Monday 4th November. Henry went down to the Porte in steam launch about 10. A thunderstorm came on and we had some heavy rain. I practised guitar and copied out music. Lunched alone and did not go out. Henry returned about 4. Mr Smijth and Malet dined with us. Sang. Tuesday 5th November. Copied music, practised and cut out clothes for refugees. May and Mrs Willie Hanson came to lunch. Played tennis till 5. Read Lecky History of England in 15th Century. Mr Wallace, M. Denant 1 , Sir Alfred Sandison, Mr Kennedy and Mr Ashenburnham dined with us. Wednesday 6th November. Painted Jerry's portrait. Cut out. May went to paper chase. Henry and I went down to Hisar in steam launch to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha. There was a strong South wind blowing and we danced about a great deal. Found the Pasha in and after sitting an hour with him we ' Secretary of the French Embassy.

- 154 came home. Had tea with Henry in his room. He said it was the first day for months that he had not been overwhelmed with work and was able to write some private letters. The General, Capt. Wingfield and his new officer Mr Woodhouse, Mr Baring and Mr Lewison Gower dined with us. Thursday 7th November. Painted. At 1 o'clock Princess Halim Pasha came to see me and stayed to luncheon. Jerry waited upon us at table and Henry had to lunch afterwards but the Princess allowed him to come in to see her before she left. Played tennis. Wingfield joined us. Read and taught Jerry. Mr Smijth dined with us. Sat in Henry's room in the evening. Friday 8 th November. Wrote for the post. At 11 I went down to Kandilli in the 3-oared caique and landed at Mrs Willie's. It began to rain heavily as I got there but soon cleared. I went up at once to Mrs Arthur's and called on Mrs Ogvily who was at home. I then went to Mrs Henry's. She did not expect me, not having got my message, however she was very glad to see me and gave me lunch, showed me her baby, little Gladdys who is 6 week old. After lunch there was a thunderstorm and heavy showers. I went to call on Mrs Hanson (mère) and from here went back to Mrs Willie's and had tea and then May and I returned home in the steam cutter and reached about 5. Read. Sir Alfred, the General, Mr Kennedy dined with us. Saturday 9th November. May gave me a lesson in lace work and I made out patterns. About 1 Mrs Henry Hanson called having come in a steam launch and she invited May to go up to the Black Sea with them. They returned about 3. Played lawn tennis. MM. Montholon and Dumaine dined with us. Hobart Pasha came to stay till Monday. Very hot South wind. Sunday 10th November. Walked in the garden with Henry and it was warm and fair. About lunch time the wind suddenly changed to North and we had a great deal of rain and cold. The Fourniers, Hatzfeldt and Mr Smijth, Mr Kennedy, Mr Malet, Ct Pisani and M. Olivier de Beaumont 1 dined. We had fires for the second time this autumn. Telegram of Lord Beaconsfield's speech of last night came at lunch time. He intends to insist on Berlin Treaty. Monday 11th November. May went off early to town with her Uncle. Henry went to town in steam launch. Miss Bilinsky came to stay a few days. Capt. Stopford came having just brought up the Admiral from Cyprus. He lunched with us. Mrs Arthur Hanson also came to luncheon and she and I played tennis with Mrs Lewison Gower and Mr Kennedy. Tuesday 12th November. Mrs W. Hanson came in the morning and we all worked for the Bazaar and I made designs of flowers on silk. I changed my bedroom to the pink room on account of the cold. Ct Zichy came down to lunch. We practised lawn tennis and afterwards May went to Kandilli with 1

Possibly Jean-Olivier de Beaumont, French naval officer.

- 155 Mrs Willie. Read before dinner. Mr Smijth and Lewison Gower dined. I sang in the evening. Wednesday 13th November. Arranged rooms upstairs. Worked. At lunch Hobart Pasha turned up on his way to shoot at Phanaraki. Henry and I went for a ride together from 2 to 4. We went by Yenikoy back over the hill. Lord George, Sir Alfred and Mr Smijth dined with us. Sang in the evening. Thursday 14th November. Copied for Henry. May returned from Kandilli just after luncheon. Mr Smijth came to tell us that the Antelope was going to draw a seine and had sent to invite us to go and see it. We dressed at once and walked off, Blanche, May and I, and got there just in time to see it. The first time they took nothing but found they had forgotten to close the pocket of the net. A second time they tried and had no luck and then a third time but they got stuck in the rocks so we returned home in the gig and 1 went to play tennis. Read at 5. Messrs Ashenburnham and Kennedy dined with us. Friday 15th November. Henry went to town. Mrs Willie Hanson came up to luncheon bringing Miss Cumberbatch with her. Mrs Bilinsky came bringing her daughter Elsie to stop with us and she returned to Kadikoy. The whole afternoon the ladies practised for tomorrow's lawn tennis tournament and were joined by Mr Kay, and Richard of the Antelope. Mrs Willie stayed the night and Miss Cumberbatch returned home in caique. Capt. Gordon came to dine and sleep. Rather a mild youth. He told us with great nonchalance how a brother of his had gone to a hotel at Paris at the end of July and had never been heard of since. Saturday 16th November. We worked all the morning for the bazaar. After lunch we went out to lawn tennis tournament. Henry had to go to Yildiz directly after breakfast. Just as we were finishing lunch, Ct Zichy arrived to see Henry and began to leave the messages for him with me when luckily Henry returned. The Student Interpreters, the Hanson Club and the Antelope Club played in the Tournament and we had a ladies game, May and I against Mrs Willie Hanson and Miss Cumberbatch. We won, Therapia also won against all the others. Unfortunately it came on to rain hard and we had to take shelter under the trees several times. Hobart Pasha came to stay Sunday. Capt. Wingfield dined with us. Sunday 17th November. Capt. Wingfield sent boat for us to go to service on board Antelope and after we went to visit the Ward room. Ct. Hatzfeldt and Nellie came down to luncheon and spent the afternoon. We walked in the garden with them. May and Blanche went for a walk out with the Secretaries. Mr and Mrs Fawcett, Sir G. Dallas 1 and Embassy dined.

1

Unable to identify.

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Monday 18lh November. Henry went to town to the Porte in the Steam launch and May went to town with him and I was at home alone when at 12.30 old Mrs Hanson came to see me. She stayed to luncheon and afterwards I took her on a drive in the victoria to Biiyiikdere and back. Mrs Charles Hanson called. They left about 4. May came back just then by the §irket steamer with a message for me from Henry to say he was sent for by the Sultan and would not be back till after dinner. May and I practised our guitars together. I read and taught Jerry. The General and Mrs Kennedy dined with May and me. Henry and Sir Alfred returned in steam launch about 10.30. Tuesday 19th November. Woke all the morning for the Bazaar. Played lawn tennis in the afternoon. Went to call on Mme Baltazzi. Messrs Smijth, Kennedy and Ashenburnham dined with us. Wednesday 20th November. Worked for Bazaar all morning but had a headache and had to go to lie down before lunch and did not move again all day. Mr Kennedy left for England. Thursday 21st November. All our new horse clothes were stolen out of the stables in the night. Got up late. Messenger arrived. (Mr Woodford). Played tennis in the afternoon with Sir G. Dallas, Mr Smijth and Leweson Gower. I was not well enough to play much. Came in and copied letters for Henry. Sir G. Dallas and Mr Woodford dined. Friday 22nd November. Copied letters for Henry till 11. Mrs A. Hanson came to lunch — also Col. Home and Caratheodory Pasha before he starts as governor of Crete. Mrs Newman called to tell me all about the Jewish girl she is supposed to have abducted. It appears the father brought the girl to Mrs Newman saying he was divorced from his wife and wanted her to educate the girl. He signed a contract leaving her for 4 years. At the end of the 4 years her mother came and fetched her away. She went with her mother well dressed and happy but saying she would not live with her mother but would return to Mrs Newman. At the end of 3 months the girl suddenly came back to Mrs Newman in rags and looking miserable. She said she had been so ill treated by her people she could stand it no longer. They had insisted on marrying her to a Jew she did not know. She had stoutly refused and they had even tried to ruin her character by shutting her up in a room with the man. At last one day, the girl seeing the door open fled and took refuge in the Scotch missionhouse and was taken from there back to Mrs Newman. After remaining some time with Mrs Newman she left her and went to join a brother turned Christian who leaves in Switzerland. This is Mrs Newman's story. Col. and Mrs Blunt called. Went out and played tennis a little while. Had to have a long talk with May about her plans, to tell her Mrs Willie Hanson could not keep her this

- 157 winter and advised her to go home in the spring. She cried and said she would do as 1 advised — I was very sorry for her, poor thing having no home. Saturday 23rd November. Very tired and did not get up till afternoon. Henry went to see Ahmed Vefik Pasha. Lovely weather still. Sir Alfred and Mr Ashenburnham dined. Sunday 24th November. Walked with Henry in the garden and in the afternoon on the quay. Had long talk with May about her habit of powdering her face and persuaded her to give up the habit and took her powder and threw it into the Bosphorus. Mr Smijth, Sir Alfred, Lord George, Mr L. Gower, Mr Ashenburnham, the General and M. Bedros Couyoumgian dined with us. Monday 25lh November. Henry went to town in the steam launch. May and I sewed. Began packing for moving to town. Mrs Henry and Mrs Willie Hanson came to luncheon. After lunch went up in the garden with Mr Gannie telling him what trees to trim and so on. Henry came home to tea and the General came to tea also. Mr Smijth dined with us. Tuesday 26Ih November. We played tennis in the afternoon for the last time before going to town. Wednesday 27th November. Packed and arranged things to go to town. Thursday 28th November. 1 had a bad headache and had to lie down all the morning. The tug which was ordered at 8 never turned up and at 11 we had to send to Buyiikdere to hire one and it was past 11 before our things set off. At 1 o'clock we went on board the Antelope and lunched as we went down. The General and Lady Dickson went down at the same time and the secretaries. Two carriages met Henry, May Boyd and me at Dolmabahge and we found on getting to the Embassy that some of our things had already arrived. I had to go to bed at 7 o'clock. May had tea in my boudoir. Henry went out to dine with the Fourniers and to a party afterwards at Zichy's. Friday 29th November. I went downstairs to arrange the blue drawing room and found that most of the Government furniture was eaten with moth. Had work getting things in place. Saturday 30th November. I went out in the brougham and paid visits. May got news of her stepfather's death (Mr Hurly). Took a turn along the Taksim road but it was so broken up could scarcely get on. Began to blow and rain a little. Dined alone. Sunday 1st December. May and I walked to the Memorial Church. Long service and a full congregation. Walked in garden with Henry in afternoon. Mme and Mile Parniss called. Hobart Pasha dined with us — a partie carree. Monday 2nd December, [no entry].

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Tuesday 3rd December. Expected Sir Geoffrey Hornby to come from Artaki. He did not turn up. Hobart Pasha, Lord George, Mr Smijth and Mr Ashenburnham dined with us. Wednesday 4th December. Wrote for the messenger bags, copied for Henry. The Admiral arrived from Artaki. Princess Nazli came to spend the afternoon with me and allowed Admiral Hornby and Henry to come and talk to her. A great deal of excitement in the town owing to a change of Ministry. Safvet Pasha goes out and Hayreddin Pasha becomes Grand Vizier and Caratheodory Pasha, Minister for Foreign Affairs. There was a report in town that this was done by the Sultan to annoy England and spite Henry, who on the contrary was much pleased as the new Ministry is very liberal. Hayreddin Pasha though almost a foreigner — being a Tunisian — has written many very liberal books and it is the first time the Minister for Foreign Affairs has been a Christian. Thursday 5 th December. Mrs Willie Hanson called in the morning. Mr Winslow came to stay with us. I drove out in the afternoon with Admiral Hornby. We went down to Findikh expecting to find a boat there from the Brassey 1 '* yacht 2 . After waiting some time we were joined by Mr Foster, Lady Thomas and her child and a boat fetched us and we were taken on board the Sunbeam. It was squally and we were glad to get on board between showers. We found the saloon crowded with all kinds of people amongst them Turkish ladies in ya$maks and feraces who turned out to be Princess Nazli and her sister Princess Azize and her mother-in-law, Mme Kazim Bey and they had several people with them and Princess Azize had her little boy of 3 who spoke English and French and was dressed like an English child. As soon as some of the crowd had gone Mrs Brassey showed me over the yacht which is most confortably fitted up with nursery and so on and the walls and ceilings of the saloon and deck cabins are hung every kind of curiosity drawing, china, lace, corals, etc. In fact it was oppressive and made one want room to breathe. I returned on shore taking Mr Brassey to see Henry and dress at our home. Went home and laid down till dinner — the rolling and fatigue having given me a headache. We had to dinner the Brasseys, Hobart Pasha, Admiral Hornby, Mr Winslow, Mr Smijth and the General. By dint of eating nothing and taking a little champagne I got better and was able to go to Ct Zichy's in the evening. We took the Brasseys there. As there was dancing we did not stay long.

1 SirTh. And Lady Brassey. The Sunbeam.

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Friday 6th December. May and I arranged the red drawing room. Admiral Hornby and Mr Winslow left and returned on the Helicon to Artaki. Several people called in the afternoon including Mmes Kosjek and Calvert. Saturday 7th December. I woke with a headache but got up as I expected Aimée and Mme Livadari who was coming to arrange about my taking singing lessons. They came and I had to remain on the sofa all day and to get to bed when the others went to dinner. Sunday 8lh December. I stayed in bed late. May, Hill and Jerry went to church. The messenger arrived from England and brought me the parcels of small trifles Blanche had chosen and sent me for the Charity Bazaars I have to contribute to and it is very amusing unpacking them. I went down to dinner. Had Major Wilson, Mr Ross of Bladensburg1, Mr de Wolski 2 , Mr Harrison, Mr Gatherall3, Mr Smijth, Ashenburnham, L. Gower, Lord George, Sir Alfred to dinner. Monday 9th December. Got up after breakfast. Sorted things for the Bazaar and sent off Bebek things. Mrs A. Hanson called. Played harmonium to May's accompaniment on piano. Mrs Brassey called. We had a dinner party consisting of M. and Mme Serkis, Savas Pasha (Minister of Foreign Affairs), Vahan Efendi (Under-Secretary at the Ministry of Justice), Costaki Adosidès Pasha (ex-Governor of Crete), Cemil Pasha, Hasan Fehmi Pasha (exPresident of the Chambers), Sir Alfred and Mr Baring. There was also a great dinner of Mr Foster's tonight to which we had been invited. Tuesday 10"1 December. Worked in the morning. Played tennis afternoon. Received visits at 5. May and I arranged red drawing room. May went to dine with Lady Dickson. Mr and Mrs Brassey dined with us and Mr Ashburnham. The General had got a great dinner party at his club and we could get no one to dine with us. Wednesday 11th December. The Sunbeam sailed today. Copied letters for Henry all the morning. I had a cold and neither went out or played lawn tennis but worked upstairs. The General and Lady Dickson, Hobart Pasha, Col. Home, Mr Chermside and Capt. Stopford dined with us and Mr Lewison Gower. Thursday 12th December. Sewed in the morning. Afternoon went out in the sedan chair to pay visits and found both Mme Raab and Mrs Whitaker at home. Henry and May and I went to dine at Zichy's —a dinner in honour of the Spanish minister. Mme Villa Mantilla was very resplendent and "décolletée" and quite sleeveless and whitened and covered with diamonds 1

2 3

From the Anglo-Irish family. Capt. F.D. de Wolski an English officer in charge of transports in Roumelia. G. Gatherall, British trader.

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and in fact was the regular rich Cuban and a subject of great astonishment to all but ourselves. She was very much pleased with herself and with Baron Galvagna who made up fiercely to her at dinner and once she called loudly in a patronising tone to her host across the table, "You shall give me a camelia by and bye, for they are magnificent!" All the evening she sat by me and talked and laughed loudly. She is very vulgar and good-natured and her old husband somewhat jealous. Friday 13th December. Took my first singing lesson from Mme Livadari and began to learn "Plaisir d'amour". In the afternoon played tennis for a little while but it was cold and wet and I soon came back. Mme Condouriotis called to introduce a lady to me and Mme Doctor (?) called also Mme Fernandez and Mme Marinich. Mr Smijth, Lord George and Mr Ashenburnham dined with us. Billiard in the evening. Saturday 14th December. Woke with a headache so did not get up. Wrote to Emila Reuss. Got worse in the afternoon and had to remain in bed all day. Mr L. Gower, the General and Major Gordon dined. Sunday 15"1 December. Still unwell, did not get up at all. The W. Hansons Mr Smijth, Sir Alfred, Mr L. Gower, Lord George Montague. Monday 16"1 December. On waking Henry told me he had last night received a telegram from England to say that Princess Alice was dead from diphtheria. We had to send round to put off our dinner party of tonight, which I did not regret being unwell and I did not get up till the afternoon when I only went into the boudoir on the sofa. Hobart Pasha came to see me there. Tuesday 17th December. Got up to have my singing lesson but I was so weak I had no voice so Mme Livadari gave it up and went away and I had to keep quiet. It rained in torrents all day. I was able to dine downstairs. In the evening a most fearful gale blew from the South and one thought that some accident would happen. The wind suddenly ceased at about 2 in the morning and it stopped so suddenly that the sudden calm woke me up. Wednesday 18th December. Copied for Henry letters to send by messenger. Heard of a fearful accident at the Dardanelles. One of the Fraissinet steamers went down, about 250 people perished. Thursday 19th December. May went to Mrs W. Hanson to begin the church decoration. I had Mrs Arthur here to see me. Hilda and her governess Miss Lucas came to lunch and also Hatzfeldt and Nelly. We had a little singing in the afternoon. Col. James Baker 1 and Mr Smijth dined. Friday 20" December. Took a singing lesson. May went to Mrs Willie's again. I did not go out although the weather was lovely and had the

' The author of Turkey in Europe, London 1878.

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Dorcas meeting here. Mrs J. Millingen, Mrs Pears 1 , Mrs Burness 2 , Miss Lebet and Miss Lafontaine. They stayed about an hour and Miss Boyd came in at the end. Had visits from Christich, Mrs Fawcett, Hobart Pasha. He and Baker Pasha, the General and Lady Dickson and Ashenburnham dined with us. Saturday 21s1 December. Mrs Arthur Hanson came and may went to Mrs Willie's. I and Mrs Arthur cut out refugee clothes all the morning. Had visits from Mme Condouriotis, de Torcy, Ct Zichy and the H. Hansons. It appears that 80 people were saved from the wreck of the Dardanelles. Had no one to dinner. May went out in the evening. Sunday 22 nd December. I went to church in the chair in the evening. Messenger arrived and got many letters. Did not go out in the afternoon. Embassy to diner. Monday 23rd December. It was a pouring wet day. The Kandilli Bazaar was held in the afternoon at the Memorial Church schoolroom. I went there in the chair and took Jerry with me and left him with May and went and paid some visits. Saw Mme Dolez. They are going to move to Berne where he is to be Minister. Tuesday 24 lh December. Took my singing lesson. May went to decorate the Memorial Church and was away all day. I went out in the carriage to pay some visits but Nicoli the servant was so stupid I could hardly find any of the houses I wanted to go to so had to give it up and went to call on the Villa Mantellas and the Higginsons who both live in the Hotel Royal and then came home. May went to dine with Lady Dickson and Henry and I dined quite alone in the room next his. He has a lame leg so I sent for Dr Patterson who said it is a strain. Wednesday Christmas Day. Jerry brought me in various little parcels from May, Mrs W. Hanson, etc., and was much excited at distributing some for me in the household. May went to early church so Henry and I breakfasted alone. Copied letters for Henry and the messenger started today. Went to the church in the chair. Sewed and read. Had dinner party — 19 in all, but quite quiet on account of our mourning. Hatzfeldt and Nelly, the Dicksons, all the Chancery, Baker Pasha, the Count all dined and Hobart Pasha. Thursday 26Ul December. Visit from the Misses Parniss in the morning. Nazli Hanim came to lunch. Jerry waited on us. Zichy came by appointment to see Nazli at 3. She stayed till dark. Talked a great deal about the manners and customs which seem very bad.

Wife of Ed. Pears, a British barrister practising in Constantinople. Wife of N. Burness, a British trader.

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Friday 27th December. Had a singing lesson. Had a letter by the messenger from Lady Ely thanking us from the Queen for our condolences on the Princess' death. Went out in chair to pay visits. Found Mme Serkis, Mme Alishan and Mme Parniss at home. Went to the Millingen's to the Dorcas meeting. Stayed about half an hour. Had visits from Dr and Mrs Cullen and from the Mantellas. She amused me much with a description of Zichy's picnic Christmas Tree. She said they danced till past 3 . 1 had such a bad headache I was obliged to go to bed early after dinner. Saturday 28th December. Spent the morning cutting out refugee clothes. Had a visit from our new Chaplain, Mr Washington whom we took rather a fancy to. He seems young, active and conciliatory. Mrs Willie Hanson came and brought her baby, my godson to see me. She stayed lunch and then, she, May, Mr Smijth and I played lawn tennis in the court. Henry took a walk in the garden the first time since his laming. Visit from Kâmil Bey. Practised singing. The Dicksons and Mr Smijth dined with us. Sunday 29"1 December. Went to church in the chair. Mr Washington assisted Mr Curtiss at the service. A dull day, a visit from Mr Rawson. Was starting to walk to evening service when I got to the garden gate and found it was raining and I had no umbrella so I turned back, went home and wrote. Zichy and Christich besides Mr Smijth, Mr L. Gower, Mr Baring and Lord George Montague and the Count Pisani dined with us. A little music in the evening. Monday 30th December. May and I cut out refugee garments all the morning. Lord Donoughmore, who arrived yesterday from Philippopoli came to stay with us and helped to cut. Mr Washington brought his wife to call on me. She seemed a nice person, not old, stout, pleasant faced. Went out in the chair at 3 although it was raining. Called on Mme Ternau, Mme Yaver and Mme de Torcy; found them home. Then went to the Dorcas meeting for half an hour. Had visits from Helen Sarell, Lady Thomas, Mrs Walker, Mme Fernandez, Mr Foster, Mrs W. Hanson. Sir Alfred Sandison dined with us. We played billiards in the evening. Tuesday 31st December. Had my singing lesson. In the afternoon Mrs Willy, May and I set on foot to look for presents for the New Year. Went to the Bon Marché and to Hayden's. Dreadful walking and the streets crowded. In the evening we had a small party consisting of Hatzfeldt and Nelly, Zichy, the Washingtons with 2 children, the Willie Hansons, Hilda and Cecil Hanson, the Ehrenhoffs and our Embassy and student dragomans. We played Snap Dragon and the greatest amusement was to see what colour Jerry would be when the salt was added and we all became green. It was found that he did not change. We then danced and valsed, I playing and then had just till 11.30

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when we went to supper and drank to the New Year and each other and then went to bed.

1879

Wednesday 1st January. As soon as I woke I set to work to copy something Henry was sending off by the messenger who started today. May and I walked to the service at the Memorial Church. After church I went to Mrs Willie's and paid her a visit and on my return home found Mrs Arthur waiting for me. She lunched with me. Thursday 2nd January. Had a violent headache and remained in bed. Friday 3rd January. Was not able to take my singing lesson. Cut out clothes, did not go out. Saturday 4th January. Went to the choir practise at the chapel. Sunday 5th January. Went to church here at the Embassy chapel. The service was long and I was so tired I felt crying during the service. Had to remain quiet the rest of the day. Hobart Pasha came to see me and have a chat. All the Embassy, Mr Grace and Mr Maynard dined. The parrot sent me by the Wintons arrived today from Liverpool. It is the bird I had so longed for which belonged to Sir Fenwick Williams in Gibraltar. Monday 6 th January. Lord Donoughmore left us and returned to Philippopoli by the early train. Went to prayers at the chapel. Went to the Dorcas meeting about 4 o'clock at Mrs Millingen's. Mr Smijth dined with us. Tuesday 7111 January. Had my singing lesson. In the afternoon May and I drove out to pay visits. Found it was Greek Christmas Eve and so found Mme Negroponte and Mrs Sarell in. Mrs Smythe, Mrs Crawford and M. and Mme Fernandez called. Had a little party to dinner consisting of Mr and Mrs Washington, Mr Curtiss and Mrs Walker, Sir C. and Lady Dickson and Hobart Pasha. Mr Washington sang to us in the evening. Good voice but badly taught and a cold into the bargain. Wednesday 8 th January. Copied for Henry and wrote for the post. Played tennis in the afternoon. Mrs Willy Hanson, Mme Adler 1 , Mme Parniss called. Lord George Montague and Mr L. Gower dined with us.

' Wife of S. Adler, President of the Austro-Hungarian Trade Association.

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when we went to supper and drank to the New Year and each other and then went to bed.

1879

Wednesday 1st January. As soon as I woke I set to work to copy something Henry was sending off by the messenger who started today. May and I walked to the service at the Memorial Church. After church I went to Mrs Willie's and paid her a visit and on my return home found Mrs Arthur waiting for me. She lunched with me. Thursday 2nd January. Had a violent headache and remained in bed. Friday 3rd January. Was not able to take my singing lesson. Cut out clothes, did not go out. Saturday 4th January. Went to the choir practise at the chapel. Sunday 5th January. Went to church here at the Embassy chapel. The service was long and I was so tired I felt crying during the service. Had to remain quiet the rest of the day. Hobart Pasha came to see me and have a chat. All the Embassy, Mr Grace and Mr Maynard dined. The parrot sent me by the Wintons arrived today from Liverpool. It is the bird I had so longed for which belonged to Sir Fenwick Williams in Gibraltar. Monday 6 th January. Lord Donoughmore left us and returned to Philippopoli by the early train. Went to prayers at the chapel. Went to the Dorcas meeting about 4 o'clock at Mrs Millingen's. Mr Smijth dined with us. Tuesday 7111 January. Had my singing lesson. In the afternoon May and I drove out to pay visits. Found it was Greek Christmas Eve and so found Mme Negroponte and Mrs Sarell in. Mrs Smythe, Mrs Crawford and M. and Mme Fernandez called. Had a little party to dinner consisting of Mr and Mrs Washington, Mr Curtiss and Mrs Walker, Sir C. and Lady Dickson and Hobart Pasha. Mr Washington sang to us in the evening. Good voice but badly taught and a cold into the bargain. Wednesday 8 th January. Copied for Henry and wrote for the post. Played tennis in the afternoon. Mrs Willy Hanson, Mme Adler 1 , Mme Parniss called. Lord George Montague and Mr L. Gower dined with us.

' Wife of S. Adler, President of the Austro-Hungarian Trade Association.

- 164 Thursday 9th January. Hill had been ill in the night so I sent for Dr Patterson. I went with Henry to call on Nazli. Found her husband not expected to live many hours. A sale going on in the selamlik below. Altogether it was a sad sight. Admiral Hornby arrived from Izmit to spend a couple of days with us. Capt. Day dined with us. Friday 10th January. Had singing lesson. May and I went to Mme Fournier in the afternoon, it being her reception day. Found a roomful and we all sat round solemnly and tea was handed. Baker Pasha, Hobart Pasha, Sir C. and Lady Dickson, M. d'Ehrenhoff, Aimée and Mr Smijth dined. Saturday ll l h January. Admiral Hornby left us and returned to îzmit. I had a visit from Mme Haydar Efendi — a Christian ballet dancer married to a Turk. Still young and has been very handsome. She brought her 2 boys dressed beautifully, speaking French and English and Mme Koelle 1 came too. Mme Haydar seemed very nervous but spoke beautiful French. He married her at Vienna when he was minister there. Hobart Pasha and Mr Christich came to call. We dined quietly. Sunday 12th January. It rained all day. I went to church notwithstanding. Embassy to dinner. Monday 13th January. Went out in the chair, paid visits and attended the Dorcas meeting. Tuesday 14th January. Had my singing lesson. M. d'Ehrenhoff and Aimée called very late. Mrs Willie came and she and May and I had high tea together and sat and talked till Henry returned from dining with the Sultan. Wednesday 15th January. It snowed hard all day. Mme Kâzim Bey came to call on me. She is the mother of Izzet Bey who married Nazli's sister. She brought a nice French lady with her who had been many years with her. She allowed Henry to come and see her. She is still a handsome woman and speaks French perfectly. Hobart Pasha and L. Gower dined with us. Thursday 16th January. After breakfast May and I set to work to arrange the drawing room for the ceremony of the investiture of Safvet Pasha with the Star of India. At 12.30 H.H. arrived quite alone. We had Henry and all the Embassy in uniform and a few ladies and Mme Marinich, Washington, Hanson and d'Ehrenhoff. When the ceremony began, Mr Smijth read the Queen's warrant, then Henry read a speech in French and Safvet answered so low that no one could hear. Henry then put on the star and ribbon to which was attached a lovely diamond cross, then taking over the ribbon he put on him the enameled chain. He was then congratulated and signed the receipt for it. He lunched with us afterwards and amused us by getting up and leaving the room as soon as he had had enough ! ! Played tennis. In the evening we gave a 1

Wife of Dr Koelle, an Anglican missionary. See The Queen's

Ambassador.

- 165 great dinner to the Ministers. I sat between Hayreddin and Carathéodory Pashas. We sat down 21 in numbers. After dinner all went to smoke except Savas who said he was not able to smoke on account of his headaches. I sympathised at which he asked me some curious questions and seeing I sound flustered added, "Je vous demande parce que je suis médecin", which was no excuse to my mind. When the gentlemen returned from the smoking room and Hayreddin came and sat by me, Sir Alfred Sandison came and said to him, "Will you speak to Savas Pasha about our affairs". On enquiry Sir Alfred said that there were many things which Savas Pasha might settle for England and which lagged, at which Hayreddin begged Savas in severest tones to do him the favour to settle them at once. Savas Pasha cringed and spoke of want of time but said in 2 days he would do it. "Je vous donne quatre", said Hayreddin, but please to do it in that time, "et croyez-moi vous ne pouvez mieux servir votre patrie qu'en finissant toutes ces affaires-là." Savas got up and shrunk away like a dog with his tail between his legs. Friday 17th January. Had a singing lesson. Henry, May and I went out to lunch with General and Lady Dickson. Met Mr Mascale 1 there. Afterwards I went to see Princess Nazli whose husband died on Saturday last. She seemed a good deal relieved though she could not say so. Dr Mavroyeni called there at the same time with a message from the Sultan about helping her to get out of pawn the jewels her husband had taken from her. Mr L. Gower dined. Saturday 18th January. Cut out for refugees. Miss Lebet called about the Dorcas concert we want to give with excuses from Dussap 2 that he could not help. Did not go out. Wrote. Mr Malet returned from Aleppo and brought me as present two fine cats. He and the Dicksons and Mr Smijth dined with us. Just after dinner we heard screams and I ran out and caught Hill running about wildly so I knew the house must be on fire. I calmed her down and found out that Orchard 3 had set fire to the curtains in May's room. On examination it was found not to be serious as the flames had been at once put out. I then put Hill to bed with Mme Joubert's help and afterwards turned my attention to Orchard who was delirious in her fright, turning her head and hands about wildly and saying, "Let me leave the house at once! Oh dear what shall I do! I must make Miss Boyd's bed." I got her up to her room and to bed and returned to entertain Lady Dickson and have tea and be calm before bed time.

1 Unable to identify.

2

Paul Dussap, the French born piano teacher at the Palace. One of the maids,

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Sunday 19th January. Stayed in bed resting and writing. Got up at 3 o'clock. Monday 20th January. Went to Dorcas meeting and announced intention of having concert for the Charity at the Embassy and that I had asked for the Sultan's band. We dined alone, May, Henry and I. Tuesday 21st January. Had singing lesson. Snowed hard all day. Hobart Pasha and Sir Arthur Sandison called at 5 o'clock. May dined out so Henry and I dined quite alone and went early to bed. Wednesday 22nd January. Copied for Henry letters to go by messenger. M. Dussap Bey came to call and to say he had the Sultan's orders to organize a concert for me for the Dorcas Society. I explained that I would lend the ball room and begged the Sultan's private band might play with Guatelli 1 which he agreed to. At 2 there was a meeting of the ladies of the Committee for the concert. Just as I went up to dress for dinner, the Lemoynes 2 called and I had to get rid of them and dress and we went to dine at the French Embassy at a great diplomatic dinner. Fournier was very excited and violent in his manner to Henry with whom he is furious as he imagines Henry wishes to thwart him in every thing and does not like the French influence to be up in this place. However Henry avoided getting angry and all went off well. Thursday 23rd January. Went out in the chair paying visits. Found Mme Vigoureux 3 and Mrs Lafontaine at home and Mrs Pears. We had a dinner to diplomats amongst whom were Zichy... Friday 24111 January. Had a singing lesson. It was a lovely day. Mrs Willie Hanson called. At 5 had visits from Zichy, Palgrave who is here for a few days to see Henry and Mrs Whitaker and Mrs Honischen. I copied despatches for Henry. Saturday 25th January. M. Dussap called to talk about the conceit but had arranged no programme and I had great difficulty in making him sketch out one. He also tried to make me ask a lady and a gentleman I did not know to play at the concert which I refused. At 2 I had a concert committee meeting and then at 3.30 went out driving to call upon Mme Kazim and Princess Azize (Nazli's sister). They have a fine wooden house at Kabata§ and they received me very politely in a small inner room very prettily fitted up with Turkish old things. They gave me the usual coffee, sweets and tea. M. de Torcy was there on my arrival but he left at once. I met there a very curious and interesting woman, Mme Necib Pasha 4 , a Bosnian — ugly and fat and ' Guatelli Pasha, Italian born director of the Imperial orchestra.

2 Lt Col. Lemoyne, French "5 4

member of the border delimitation commission in the Balkans.

Widow ol a French journalist working for the Ottoman foreign ministry. Necib Pasha, a future envoy to Spain had held a command during the late war.

- 167 arrayed in violet velvet. She spoke very comical French and had a loud voice but she kept us in roars of laughter telling us about her dear friend Lady Kemball. "C'est une bonne dame, mais il est capricieux", she kept saying and told us how they used to quarrel and make it up and how Lady Kemball liked Mme Necib because she (Madame Necib) was very like Sir Arnold in the face! She also told us that once when they had to meet Lady Salisbury, Lady Kemball said, "Let her come to us", and Mme Necib answered, "Non, non ma chère, nous sommes militaires, vous et moi, il faut obéir au chef!" She described Lady Salisbury's celebrated visit to Mme Midhat and said she said to Lady Salisbury, "Je ne veux pas parler politique, je suis militaire," at which Lady Salisbury said, "Then what will you do?" and Mme Necib answered, "Je veux danser". "Eh bien dansez donc" said Lady Salisbury and the young people took her to her word! Her tone, her gesticulations and her manner were so odd that we all laughed immoderately. From that house I went to call on Princess Nazli and found her in a very unconfutable room and sat with her some time and got home late. Copied a letter for Henry and then went to the practice at the chapel which I found nearly over. General Dickson and Mr Wrench dined with us. Sunday 26th January. Remained in bed all day with headache. Monday 27th January. Still laid up. Tuesday 28th January. Had singing lesson. Wednesday 29th January, [no entry]. Thursday 30th January. We had a dinner party consisting of [blank] Friday 31st January. I was in the middle of my singing lesson when I was informed that the Sultans' children had come to see me. Found Henry in the drawing room and little Selim Efendi, the Sultan's eldest boy of about 9 — pasty and weak looking— also §evket Efendi the son of Abdiilaziz and also another nephew of the Sultan's — son of a brother who is dead — a little thing of five 1 . They were accompanied by 2 preceptors who spoke only Turkish and stood up all the time. After some conversation on Henry's part aided later by Sir Alfred we gave them some crackers to carry away. We gave them a little box to carry them in and it was amusing to see how careful Prince Selim was to put his separate. The preceptor said that he would take care to remember in order to avoid a dispute on getting home. Sir Alfred took them round the garden. As they went and Hobart Pasha came in and saluted them to which Selim Efendi answered quite quietly. It appears that the etiquette requires only one to return a salute. The little boy could hardly walk and had to be led by the hand. He was a funny little figure in his European jacket and trousers. The preceptor said that Prince Selim had often expressed 1

ibrahim Tevfik Efendi, son of Burhâneddin Efendi.

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a wish to come to the Embassy on passing it and said, "I know the Ambassador, I can very well call upon him." When we went to bed Henry began to have a shivering fit and I got him to bed a gave him something hot but he had a bad night and later on was sick so that I was up with him most of the night. Saturday 1st February. Henry was better and up but not very well. However he had to go to the Sultan. Just as he was leaving Ahmed Vefik came to see us and stayed with me and lunched with me and May. Mrs Walker called after lunch and he left about 2 and then I laid down for a rest till 5. At a quarter to 10 Mme Mantilla, May and I went to the Jewish mask ball of which I was patroness at the French theatre. When I went they played God save the Queen. It is a very dirty theatre and the whole affair seemed to me dingy and dull. However they got a lot of money and were pleased. May and I returned home about 12. Sunday 2nd February. Henry and I went in a steam launch borrowed from the Turks up the Bosphorus. The day was lovely. We went first to Ahmed Vefik's and he made us breakfast with him a la Turca. From there we went to Kandilli to the Arthur Hansons who had waited lunch for us. We got there about 2. Sat with them while they lunched and then walked in the garden. At 4 we went to call on the Caratheodorys at Arnavutkoy and found the ladies at home but the gentlemen in town and after a short visit we returned home. Jerry had been untidy and dirty so we handed him over to Jones the coachman for chastisement and he kept him the night "in prison". The Embassy dined and Mr Woodford and the Dicksons. Monday 3rd February. May and I spent the morning cutting out the flowers for some applique work we are going to do for the church. We arranged the rooms for the ball we were to have in the evening. Mme Dolez came to take leave of me. She leaves for good on Wednesday. We dined early on account of the dance. 1 wore a dark blue velvet with the grand cordon of the §efakat. We had a large number of people come — amongst them the Turkish ministers and altogether about 200 people. Henry went to bed at 12 when the supper room opened. The dancing was in the Red drawing room. I was rather put out at every other person asking me why I did not open the ball room and I went to bed at 2 quite cross. The dance was a success and specially the supper. Tuesday 4th February. I was so knocked up with fatigue that I had to remain all day in bed with headache. Wednesday 5 th February. Stayed in bed till 12 when I got up but did not go out. Expected Princess Halim who however did not come. Instructed Jerry in his catechism. We dined alone and then Henry and I went to the

- 169 Armenian mask ball of which he is the patron at El Dorado. On arriving we were met by the committee and their President Mr Foster and handed into the centre box and all the people in the boxes rose while the band played "God save the Queen". The theatre was pretty and bright and all the women in the parterre were masked. We received many visits from the different notabilities and 2 or 3 ladies. We returned home at 12. Thursday 6th February. Went over to Stamboul with Henry directly after breakfast. We went to the Archeological Museum and were met by M. Dethier, a tiresome long-winded, ignorant Frenchman 1 . The place is a kiosque at the Seraglio built by Mahomed the Conqueror and very pretty. The antiquities were all scattered and in disorder. Saw some curious rude sculptures found in Cyprus. From there we went to the Museum of the Janissaries at the Ecole des Metiers et Arts where there is the most dilapidated collection of old costumes of the beginning of the century amongst them the costume of the Embassy dragomans which Henry remembers to have seen still worn by old Fred Pisani in Lord Stanford's time. The moth-eaten clothes were hung on absurd wooden figures with ridiculously painted faces. From here we went through intricate streets to call on Edhem Pasha. Found him in. In answer to our enquiries whether he was going ambassador to Vienna he said he had heard nothing officially, but his friends had told him so. We returned home for lunch. Directly after I had a short visit from Princess Vicdan (Halim Pasha's wife). Taught Jerry his catechism. We dined alone and afterwards went to Ct Zichy's to a small dance there. They danced in the large ball room and at one end was the buffet but the room was very empty. I left May under the care of Mrs Willie and Henry and I came home early. Friday 7111 February. May and I worked at the church cushions. Nazli came to see us and was very amusing telling us a great deal about Turkish life and faith, that on her marriage she had a trousseau of 40 dresses, that each pair of sheets cost £30 and that she had had £30.000 worth of jewels. She told us about the Mohammedan notions of Heaven, how Mahomet was to marry the Virgin Mary and every spinster was to find a husband. Women were to have gold, fine clothes and diamonds and God will make them a present of 70 children to amuse themselves with and so and so. She said they were never allowed to say, "There goes a Christian funeral", but "The Christians are carrying a body to the grave", in order to give the dead person the benefit of the hope that he had been converted to Moslemism at the last moment. A good many people called at 5: the Chasseriots 2 , Zichy and Mr Foster with an

1 In spite of his French sounding name A . Dethier was Austrian.

2

Unable to identify.

- 170 Armenian deputation who came to thank us for having come to their ball. Lord Donoughmore arrived to stay with us. Saturday 8 ,b February. Henry complained that he had slept badly and was on the sofa all day so I sent for Dr Patterson who prescribed for him but he did not get better all day and he went to bed at 7 o'clock. In the afternoon May and I drove out to call on Mme Haydar Efendi who lives at Ferikoy in Mr Ede's 1 house. She expected us and received us very civilly and then called in her sister to be introduced. Her pretty little boys were dressed in an Albanian costume which suited them admirably. After leaving her we went to call on Mrs Koelle whom we found in, having had a luncheon party, in her best cap. She told us Mme Haydar's sister was a widow and was a protestant, Mme Haydar a Catholic. She said that the sister had been with her all morning crying and asking counsel, "and after asking for guidance 1 gave her the best advice I could. She went on so long that some ladies I had asked to luncheon arrived and I had made no preparations for them as I would not disturb my friend's outpourings". From Mrs Koelle we went to Mme Adler and found her and her husband at home. Mrs Homischen called also Mme Marinich and Miss MacCarthy. There was only Mr L. Gower and Lord G. Montague with Lord Donoughmore at dinner besides May and me. Henry passed a little better night. Sunday 9th February. We had to give up going to Therapia to spend the day and sleep at Petala's as we had arranged both on Henry's account and on account of the weather which was muggy and misty and Henry was very ill all day. Dr Patterson says it is a breakdown of the nervous system from overwork. I stayed in all day. Zichy called and was allowed to see Henry a few moments. Lord Donoughmore dined with Mr Malet and May with Mrs Willie and I had tea up in my boudoir. Henry passed a bad night. Monday 10th February. Henry still continued very ill and I never left him except for meals. Lady Dickson called to see me. In the evening Hobart Pasha came to see me having just returned from Izmit where he had been in his yacht. Zichy came and saw Henry. The Dickson and Hobart Pasha dined with us and I returned to Henry directly after dinner. Henry made Mr Malet telegraph home to ask for leave of absence. He had a rather better night. Tuesday 11th February. Dr Patterson thought him better and ordered him on the boudoir sofa for a little while. He was up about 2 hours. The weather was lovely. Lady Dickson fetched me out to walk in the garden for half an hour before lunch. Had the answers from Lord Salisbury about going home. He begs Henry to come to consult with the Government and pay our expenses and is very civil and complimentary. Just before lunch Mr Malet ' E.F. Ede, a British barrister.

- 171 came up with a letter for Henry from the Sultan saying he was sorry to hear of his illness and that he will not cease to pray God for his recovery. The letter was signed by H.M. himself. Henry being unable I wrote an answer informing H.M. that Henry had asked for and obtained leave of absence. Fournier and Corti came to enquire about Henry and I saw them also. The Persian Ambassador, Mrs Willie and Hobart Pasha came to tea. Mr Smijth and Ashenburnham dined with us. I left directly after dinner to sit with Henry. Wednesday 12th February. Henry continues to improve and he got on the sofa from 12 till 5. He was able to see Zichy and Hobart Pasha in bed. May went to the bazaar to buy things for me. I copied despatches and music and did not go out. We had a dinner party and Mr Malet took Henry's place. We, M. and Mme Webenau 1 , M. and Mme Kühlmann 2 , Sir G. and Lady Thomas, the Whitakers, Barré de Lancy 3 , Baron Budberg 4 . Had a little music in the evening and the Dicksons joined the party. Thursday 13th February. Henry better and up from 11 till 7. About 12 o'clock Lady Dickson came and fetched me and she and Mrs Willie and I took a turn in the garden. It was very hot in the sun and we would not walk without parasols. Mme Carathéodory and Princess Nazli called after lunch to ask after Henry. At 3.30 went out driving in the victoria intending to go to the Sweet Waters but the weather changed and it became windy and dusty so we turned off and came round by Yildiz and home. Hobart Pasha and Sir Alfred dined. Friday 14th February. Henry continues to improve steadily and was able to see Fournier as well as Hobart and Zichy. Hobart and Smijth dined with me. We were sitting talking after dinner when Sir Alfred came in to say the Sultan had sent him his chamberlain Hamdi Bey to say he wanted to hear how Henry was and with orders to see him if possible. I saw that H.M. was alarmed at the many and absurd reports that are flying about that Henry was mad and had sent Hamdi Bey to make sure. I therefore took him up to Henry who was in bed and reading that he might satisfy himself as to the truth. Saturday 15th February. I took Henry out in the garden for half an hour before lunch but he was very weak and not able to stay out long. After lunch I played lawn tennis in the courtyard with Miss Boyd, Smijth and Ashenburham. Mme Fernandez, Zichy and Foster and Wrench called. Hobart and Mr Malet called.

1 A.W. Edler von Webenau, counsellor at the Austro-Hungarian embassy.

2

O. von Ktlhlmann, German financier. A.L. Barré de Lancy, secretary at the French Embassy.

4

Russian diplomat.

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Sunday 16111 February. Henry was so much better and downstairs that I went to morning service. Coming out I met Dr Patterson and walked up and down talking for sometime about Henry and what he should do in England and the doctor he was to consult. I then fetched Henry out and walked up and down with him till lunchtime. Princess Nazli came to spend the afternoon with me. Had visits from Mrs Henry, Mrs Willie Hanson also from Hobart Pasha. We had Hatzfeldt and Nelly to dinner besides the Embassy but Henry did not dine at table. Monday 17th February. Sent Jerry off to Mr Curtiss' school and he is to sleep at the Willie Hansons'. May also moved to Mrs Willie's today. Mme Fournier called to say good-bye. Visits also from the Fawcetts, Kosjeks, Dicksons, Thomas, Mr Foster, Mr Wrench. Sir Geoffrey Hornby arrived to stay with us. Henry dined at table for the first time since his illness. Tuesday 18tb February. Nelly came and spent the morning with me and we made cigarettes. Mr Washington called. Directly after luncheon Henry and I, Mr Malet and Sir Alfred drove off to Yildiz to visit the Sultan and have our audience to take leave of H.M. We had to wait a little while as we arrived just as the muezzin was calling to prayers. Henry was rather fatigued and pale. After waiting about a quarter of an hour we were sent for and Henry, Sir Alfred and I went in. The Sultan received us with much kindness and many expressions of regret at Henry's illness and during the audience he more than once said he could not get over the idea that Henry should have been so ill since they had last met. After a great deal of business talk, H.M. took his watch from his pocket and said he knew that Henry would never accept any present but that he could not refuse to take a little thing that he (the Sultan) had worn and hoped he would allow him to give him his own watch as a specimen of Turkish workmanship with his own seal "A" on one side "H" on the other. He then took from behind a cushion of the sofa a long envelop which had these words written on it: "Je vous prie, Madame, d'accepter ce petit objet comme un souvenir de mon estime et de mon amitié. A.H. le 18 Février 1879". I was burning with curiosity to open and see what was inside but I had to wait until Mr Malet had been sent for and presented as Minister in Henry's absence and when we got out to the waiting room. I found my present was a lovely diamond bracelet with 16 enormous diamonds in it. It was evidently old and had belonged to the Crown for many years. Henry was horrified and said I ought not to accept it but there was nothing else to be done now. We got home about 5. Lady Dickson, Hobart Pasha and Mrs Washington came to tea. This afternoon Jerry came to take a last farewell and to say he was getting on happily at school. This morning Aimée and Ida came and took away Kitsie and Coco to keep for us during our absence.

- 173 Quarantines at Marseilles so had to give up going and wait for the Antelope which is expected from Malta. Wednesday 19th February. The Admiral left us after breakfast but it blew so hard that he could not get across to his train in time and so returned to us. With Mr Malet's help I wrote a letter in French to the Sultan to thank H.M. for the bracelet. Mrs Arthur Hanson came to see me and stayed lunch. May came later. The weather was so bad we were glad not to have started today. Thursday 20lh February. The Admiral left this morning. Carathéodory Pasha came to breakfast. Aimée came to see me. A messenger arrived from Yildiz with a kind letter for me from the Sultan in answer to mine of yesterday to H.M. No Antelope being heard of we determine to go by the Austrian Lloyd to Trieste which is the only place where there is no quarantine. After lunch I went off to see Nazli and sat with her some time. She told me that on hearing of Henry's illness she had sacrificed a lamb for him to be distributed to the poor and had afterwards sent candles to the mosque as a thanksgiving for his recovery. She is very fond of him and says she feels when she is coming to our house as though she is going to see a father. The Willy Hansons came to tea and May and Hobart Pasha. The latter and Mr Ashenburnham dined with us. May and Mr Chermside came in the evening. Lord Donoughmore dined with Corti. Friday 21st February. Busy all morning finishing packing. Mme Carathéodory called with Mme Heidenstam 1 and May and Mrs Willy. After the Mantillas came and we drove down to the Arsenal close to the new bridge where Hobart Pasha had steam launches ready to take us on board the mail steamer. At the door of the Arsenal were a lot of refugees collected to see us go and Henry through Marinich addressed a few words to them and they wished us a good journey. On board the Saturno we found many waiting to bid us adieu and there 3 refugee children brought me a fine bouquet. Fournier did not come to see us nor did he wish Henry good bye at all. It appears that his grand scheme for getting money for the Turks has come to naught and he believes Henry has worked against it. We started about 5. It was blowing hard. Saturday 22nd February. We had a very bad night and about 3 A.M. it blew and rained so hard and was so dark that we had to stop for about an hour. However the weather improved a little and it was fine enough for me to get up and breakfast below and there I went on deck and lay there till bed time, having my dinner up there.

1 The wife of the chancellor at the Swedish legation..

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Sunday 23rd February. We reached Syra about 8 and remained there till 3. Mr Corbett 1 had come from Athens to meet Henry so he went ashore and they were allowed to talk in a room divided by a bar. Here we took on board 3 American ladies— a widow with a queer daughter and a niece. The daughter played ball and seemed queer, the niece was enormous but quiet. It was calmer and I was able to dine at table. Monday 24th February. Had a headache so remained most of this day in my cabin. The weather got better as we went on but at sunset there were some heavy clouds. Tuesday 25th February. We had a very rough night and it was not easy to keep in one's berth. We reached Corfu in the morning and had to remain there all day as it was blowing hard and even at anchor we pitched so that I could not remain at table. Sat out all day. Was better and able to go to dinner as weather had improved. Quite calm in the evening and wrote letters. Wednesday 26th February. We remained at Corfu till about 11.35 as we could not get the cargo on board before then. I had a headache and was forced to remain below in the cabin all day and dined there and went quietly to bed. Thursday 27th February. We had a dreadful tossing all night and so I did not attempt to get up but remained in bed and read and had my meals in my cabin lying down. By dinner time the movement became less and I was able to sit up to eat and Henry came and sat with me in the evening. Friday 28th February. The weather continued to improve and I got up for breakfast and wrote letters. The views became very pretty as we neared Trieste and the weather being showery the lights and shades were lovely. We reached Trieste about 3 and for some minutes we were kept in suspense lest we were to be kept in quarantine or at least in 24 hours observation The sanitary authorities came up the side and talked a long time on the other side of the gangway, examined every one's passport to see they had not come from infected ports and then all the passengers were ordered up on the upper deck and two doctors walked round and looked at them and then we were pronounced free to our great delight. Mr Brock, the Vice-consul took us off in a boat to the Hotel de Ville where rooms ready for us. We dined at 5 and Mr Brock and Baron Morpurgo 2 sat with us. We went early to bed. Saturday 1st March. We left Trieste by the quarter to seven train. Henry was feeling very ill at starting and I felt very anxious. Baron Morpurgo met us at the station and gave me a lovely bouquet and some chocolate. We breakfasted at Steinbruck and Henry seemed better. It was very cold and as we got near Vienna it began to snow. We got there at 9.40 and were met by the Elliot's * British minister at Athens. 2

Baron J. Morpurgo, Austrian Jewish philanthropist whom the Layards had known in Spain

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carriage and a splendid Jäger covered with blue feathers and we went to the Embassy and they gave us... 1 [No entries between 24 April until May 17J. Therapia. Sunday 18th May. Had church communion service in the Orangerie. Henry was prevented going to Church by the arrival of the Navab Ikbal ad Dawlah who came down to bid us farewell before going away as he returns tomorrow to Baghdad. He lunched with us and then went off to town. At 3 we went in the 6-man caique with Alice 2 , Mr Bland and Mr Ashburnham and called at Büyükdere on the Condouriotis and then went and made keyff at Cubuklu and came back by 6. Mr Baring, Ashburnham, Sandison, Bland, Count Pisani, Smijth, Lord Montague, Count de Montholon, Rüstern Pasha, Mr Gustave Schlumberger 3 dined with us. Corti came in the evening. Monday 19th May. At 10 o'clock: we went off in the steam launch to Pera. Alice, Henry Sir Alfred and I. Alice and I landed at Dolmabah$e the others went to the Porte. We went to Hayden's and then to the Embassy and waited till Henry joined us to lunch of which we partook in the Housekeeper's room. Afterwards Alice and I arranged and packed in. Had visits from Count Pisani, also Savas Pasha and Mr Stavrides 4 . At 3.30 we went to call on the Ehrenhoffs and found them in, Henry joined us and we went down to the steam launch and came home. We got home about 6 and then Alice and I went to the "Coal Holes" (Secretaries' House) where they had a little afternoon dance and I left Alice there under the Hansons' care. No one to dinner. Tuesday 20lh May. [No entry], Wednesday 21st May. Alice and I went in the 3-oared caique to Lady Thomas' garden party in the Khedive's garden and then on to pay some calls in Yeniköy but every one was out. Thursday 22"*May. [No entry], Friday 23rd May. Had a visit from Mme Halim Pasha who came up in the steam launch and stayed a couple of hours. The Hatzfeldts and Ittersum 5 came to play lawn tennis. Hobart Pasha and his bride arrived from their wedding tour to stay with us. She was very tired and disappeared till dinner time.

1 The Diary entries covering the period spent in England and in travelling back are not included in the present volume. The Layard returned to Constantinople on April 23.

2 Lady Layard's niece. "3 4

French Byzantinist. Dragoman at the embassy. Baron L.H. van Ittersum, the Dutch minister.

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Saturday 27th May. Being Queen's birthday Henry had the usual reception and at 5 he and Alice went out riding. After he was gone Hatzfeldt, Nelly and Ittersum called on their way up to settle at Biiyiikdere for the summer and I received them. There was the usual uniform official dinner and afterwards we had a dance which lasted until 12. Mrs Hobart was much admired. Alice and I dined in the waiting room. Mrs Hobart dined in her own room. Sunday 25th May. I went to church but with the heat and fatigue, I had such a bad headache and 1 had to leave before the sermon. I had to remain in my own room all day and go to bed about 6. Monday 26th May. The Hobarts left us and went to take up their abode in their own house at Kandilli. We had a revolution amongst the servants and 2 footmen left without giving 5 minutes notice because in making arrangements down below, I ordered an empty bed to be put in their rooms!! Tuesday 27th May. Henry went to dine with the Sultan and took Sir A. Sandison with him. Alice and I had tea at 7 and then walked in the garden as it was so hot we could not bear to remain in and we sat out and watched fireflies and picked roses. When Henry came home he said that there had been a narrow escape of an accident. The Sultan was showing off a new gun in his little kiosque and not knowing it was loaded and it went off between Henry and Sir Alfred just missing them both. His Majesty was in a great way about it and begged it should be kept a secret. Wednesday 28th May. It was still very hot and Alice and I went and sat up on a terrace in the garden to read our "Life of Barneveld"1. Mrs Willy and May came to call. At 5 Alice, Henry and I rode. We went round by the Biiyiikdere road to Yenikoy and home by the quay. I rode Tommy and he pulled very much. Mme Alexandre Pasha Caratheodory and Photiades Bey 2 came to dine and Mr Oliphant3 and Sir Alfred. We took them out in the 6oared caique in the evening and went to Biiyiikdere to hear the Russian band which was famously bad. It was a lovely moonlit night. Thursday 29th May. I copied for Henry letters for the messenger. He went down the Bosphorus to call on Hayreddin Pasha. Mr Woodford arrived with the bags from the Foreign Office and he dined with us. At 10 Henry, Alice and I with the Jouberts, Florence4, Jerry was on board the Antelope and we sat off at once for Mudanya on our trip to Broussa. Sir Alfred and Mr

' The Life and Death of John of Barneveld. J Minister at Athens. 3 L. Oliphant, journalist and mystic. 4

A member of the Layard household.

- 177 Oliphant accompanied us. We slept on board and when we woke in the morning of [blank] Friday 30th May. We found ourselves anchored at Mudanya. We dressed, had a cup of tea, set off about 1/4 8 for Broussa in carriages. We arrived at Sir Alfred's farm at 11. The drive was lovely. There was a beautiful view on the hill above Mudanya— looking one way to the sea the other to the plain of Broussa. We breakfasted and settled ourselves at the farm where we were the guests of Mrs Sandison and her brother Dr Zohrab. In the afternoon we went into the town to call on Ahmed Vefik Pasha, new governor of Broussa. Found him well and in high spirits and pleased with the work. After taking coffee with him we went off to visit the Green Mosque and tomb and then home. Saturday 31 s ' May. After breakfast we went off to the Bazaars and went through them looking at silks and seeing the whole thing. Afterwards we went to the Pasha and had refreshments with him and his son Refik Bey and drove to see more mosques and home to dinner. The Pasha came and dined at the farm. Sunday 1st June. Had prayers with Alice, Florence and Jerry. At 2 we started off to meet the Pasha who had wanted us to go to a picnic. We found the table prepared in a garden on a hill and we had a regular Turkish feast of which I could not eat much. It was very hot but pleasant in the shade. Some musicians found us out and insisted on playing to us and they play decently. It appears they formed the orchestra of the Armenian theatre now playing here. From the gardens after dinner we drove to a kiosque where there were a lovely view and springs of hot and cold water and then to the Pasha's own house which he has given for a public hospital. Here we parted with the Pasha and returned to the farm. At 10 we had a light supper and went to bed. Monday 2°d June. Henry and Alice and Sir A. Sandison and Mr Oliphant went off to ride up Olympus. Mrs Sandison and I remained together and after breakfast we went to call on the Pasha's harem. Found his wife and eldest married daughter at home and got up in loose white wrappers which seemed their only garment. They were packing and preparing to return to Constantinople. Their house was a small bath house. We walked in on a closed in yard with marble floor and a fountain in the midst. On a raised shelf were beds all round to repose on. There was a gallery above leading to many rooms into one of which we went . From there we went visit a public bath close by. On entering a large hall I was horrified at the sight of hundreds of women and children sitting all round with no covering but a small apron. They were all chattering, screaming, and laughing, eating etc. and the ground was strewn with cherries stones and dirt. We went on to the inner rooms. The

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second had few people but the inner hall, the bath proper, was a scene far more curious than the first. On entering the door one could hardly see anything for the thick steam and the heat was tremendous. I could not stay in more than an instant just long enough to perceive that there were several hundred of women and children sitting about steaming themselves and others dashing about in a basin of hot water kicking, screaming, fighting, laughing. And I had to fly and was glad to get out. We had to taste some of the hot water of the spring for luck. From the baths, Mrs Sandison and I went to see the Pasha and sat with him some time we then went to the tombs of the Sultans and Princes and Ghazis and then home. The mountain party returned home at 6 having enjoyed their trip and having halted and had tea on the way down at the camp of the young dragoman. After dinner we sat out doors and Mrs S. and Alice and Sir Alfred and I took a walk and getting him alone I took the opportunity of having a serious conversation with him on the subject of the imprudent marriage his mother was afraid lest he should make. He reassured me and took what I said very decidedly. Tuesday 3rd June. Ahmed Vefik Pasha came down to fetch us about 9.30 to carry us off with him. He took us to see his 2 new schools - one for girls - one for boys. It was very very hot. We went also again to see the beautiful tombs with their lovely tiles of blue dark and light and then by a most steep and horrible route he took us up to the Sultan's kiosque. At the end the road became so bad that we had to get out and walk. It was a lovely place when once reached. There was a view all over the plain and we looked down upon the town with its countless minarets. We were however glad to rest. In the vestibule we found a fountain playing in the middle of the marble floor and round it were placed divans and cushions to rest on. We rested till about 2 when breakfast was served. We had a smaller banquet than the last but as the Pasha had promised only different dishes he cheated us by having 3 or 4 variety of each. Some native musicians came after dinner and deafened our ears with wild endless Turkish music. About 4 we began to prepare to leave. We walked down to the carriages and en route met a Turkish refugee funeral. The men were carried in open bier and the body was merely covered with a brown cloth. At the bottom of the hill we took leave of the Pasha and changing carriages at Kara Mustafa baths we took leave of Mrs Sandison and set off for Mudanya. It was very very hot and as we got the half way, a storm began. We made tea in my travelling machine and had to drink it and hurry off and before we reached Mudanya, it began to rain. We got there about 9 and were glad to get on board the Antelope and get to bed. Wednesday 4th June. On awaking we found ourselves at Therapia. Henry and I launched at once and others followed later. I found that the

- 179 laundry maids and gardener and his family had arrived from England on last Friday and Hill had got them all settled down. Henry had to go to town to see Zichy. In the afternoon Hatzfeldt and Ittersum called. After dinner Henry and Alice and I went out to Buyiikdere to hear the band. We called at Hatzfeldt and went in to see them. They have Franchini's house large rambling and old. It used to be hired for the British Embassy years ago when Henry was first here. Thursday 5th June. Mr Woodford dined with us and after dinner we walked in the garden to see the fireflies. Friday 6th June. Henry, Alice and I took a ride in the afternoon and we did not get home till past 8 o'clock as Alice rode Softa and half way we discovered that the saddle was rubbing him so we had to go at a foot's pace all the way home. We found Mr Foster and the General waiting for us for dinner. Saturday 7th June. Excessively hot day with south wind. We went to a party on board the Antelope at 4 o'clock where there was dancing. It was very pretty and well done and there were a good many people. Mr Wrench dined with us. Sunday 8 lh June. Went to church. In the afternoon took the Dicksons and Blanche Bilinsky and Sir A. Sandison in the 6-oared caique to Kôrfez. Mrs W. Hanson and May Boyd met us there. We walked a long way up the valley to find a place to make tea. We met a Zaptiye who told us that a little further on we should find a lovely place and a spring of water and offered to show us the way saying it was quite close. We followed him a long way in a very hot sun and were at last rewarded by finding a lovely spot planted with enormous trees, a kind of reservoir and a clear spring and turf seats under the shadow of the trees. We came back home in the cool of the evening after having had tea there. The Hobarts dined with us. Monday 9th June. Alice went out riding with James before breakfast. May Boyd came to lunch and we played lawn tennis. Henry and I went to call on the Hobarts on board the Hawk in Therapia bay. Usual Monday evening dance. Tuesday 10th June. Mme d'Ehrenhoff and Aimée came to luncheon also H. Guarracino and Baker Pasha. After lunch Princess Azize (Nazli's sister) came to call and stayed a couple of hours. As soon as she left I went off to join Henry and Alice on board the Bittern to see the races between them and the Antelope. There was also a pig shut up in a box at the end of a greasy pole which was to be had by the man who would walk along and liberate it. The 1st man who attempted it by cheating got it out and piggy fell into the sea and several men went after it. Piggy got drowned and was lost. As there was

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dancing Henry and I came home to dinner and left Alice with Lady Dickson. Alice did not return till past 11. Wednesday 11th June. It was excessively hot. We worked and read. In the afternoon Alice and 1 went to call Mme Halim Pasha and found her at home. We then went to call on Nazli whom we also saw and on the way home we stayed at Mrs Willie's and had some tea. Henry went to dine with the Sultan and Alice and I had an early tea and read aloud in the evening. Thursday 12lh June. I had such a very bad cold that I stayed in bed all day to try and cure it. Fourniers returned. Friday 13lh June. Got up late, went to call on Mme Fournier. At 1.30 we started for the Bends to have a picnic tea. I went in one carriage with Lady Dickson and Colonel Biddulph 1 , Blanche Bilinsky and Miss Longworth 2 followed in the next with General Dickson; Henry, Alice, Mrs Willie, May and others rode, Mr Ashburnham, Bland and Smijth came in the "donkey carriage" as we call Mr Ashburnham's pony trap. We made tea as soon as we got to the Bends with Giovanni and Jerry's help. The Spanish Minister and Mme Mantilla joined us and were very much pleased. We returned home at 6. On the way home as it was very dusty, I was not surprised at getting dust in my eye but I could not get rid of it and when I got home though Hill tried she could not manage it. Saturday 14th June. I remained in bed and sent for Dr. Patterson. He said I had ophtalmia and ordered me to remain in the dark and in bed and there I remained till Wednesday when I got up on the sofa. Lady Dickson and Alice used to sit with me and read to me by a blink of light which they let in. The Hobarts dined here and came up to see me in the evening. Thursday June. I got up for dinner as we had a dinner party and I could not be absent. But I had to wear blue spectacles. For several days I had to remain in a darkened room not feeling well and not being up to much although I was down and about. Monday 23"1 June. Received in the evening but I had to leave and go to bed before the end of the party. Tuesday 24th June. I felt still unwell but I thought I would try going out so I got Lady Dickson to go with me and we went to Yenikoy and left some cards. Alice and Henry rode. Captain Pusey brought the sailors of the Bittern at 6 to sing to us at the grove for us to judge whether we should like them to sing chorus at the garden party on Friday next. Henry promised to come early but he did not do so and we had to wait; when he came I had to rush in and go to bed as my head ached so badly. 1 Col. J. Biddulph, author and naturalist.

2

Probably the daughter of Consul Longworth.

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Wednesday 25th June. Lady Dickson came to stay on the General's absence. Got up late and at 2 started in the steam launch with Alice and Lady Dickson for Bebek to call on Princess Zeyneb Hamm who had invited us to go to her house to hear some Turkish music and Nazli had promised to meet us to interpret. She was not there and for some time we had some difficulty in making ourselves understood. At last a French governess who was ill with fever was pulled out of her bed and brought down and the poor woman who had lost her voice had some difficulty in making herself heard. I sent the steam launch to Kandilli to fetch Mrs Hobart Pasha—and afterwards as Nazli did not arrive I sent the launch to Beylerbeyi for her. When she arrived she said she was ill and had been up all night as there had been a fire two doors off and she had packed up all her things preparatory for flight. We sat in the large vestibule and opposite us sat 4 slaves in pink silk dresses and white headdresses—one played the violin—one a kind of guitar and the others sang and played tambourines which they touched very gently. The music was wild—in a minor key and very monotonous but they kept on for more than an hour without stopping. During this coffee, sherbet and ices were served to us. When the music had lasted some time I asked whether we could see some dancing and at last after some delay 2 girls came to dance. The Princess used to keep 7 or 8 but she has now only 2. They were dressed in maroon cashmere embroidered with gold—long baggy trousers and kind of loose bodies, with wide collars, fastened in at the waist- Their long hair hung down their backs and was fastened back from their eyes by a red ribbon round their heads. They danced round the vestibule after each other in most graceful attitudes and with a sort of followed figure. Once they bent their heads quite back and waved their long hair right round—another time they danced holding their hair—another holding a scarf—and at last they threw themselves on the ground and seemed in contortions but this only lasted a moment as the danced quickened for at first it was quite slow and measured. After the dancing we sent to Prince Halim Pacha's for some Egyptian slaves who gave us Egyptian music which was no prettier than the Turkish and the singing done in a peculiar way in their throats. At about 5 we went home. Went to Kandilli to leave Mrs Hobart. We found Mrs Willie and May at home and had tea with them in the garden Thursday 26th June. Captain and Mrs Pusey came to stay with us. Mr and Mrs Washington dined also. Friday 27th June. Busy all day arranging for the garden party. I dressed in black satin with diamonds and pearls on account of the mourning for the poor Prince Impérial. By the time I was dressed after lunch and went to the garden I found a good many Pashas arrived. The Persian Ambassador had

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kindly lent me a tent of silk and embroidery which Captain Pusey had put up for me where I stood to receive. A great many people came some say 400. The Sultan had sent 2 days before to say that hearing I was going to have a fete he would send me his band which was the best in the country but he begged that I would not tell anyone lest he should be expected to do the same to others. We were in some state of anxiety as the band did not arrive till late. The weather also caused us some alarm as it blew hard all night and during the morning so that no one could come in caiques and many were prevented coming at all. About 5, 2 royal carriages drove up containing 2 young Princes, son of the present Sultan and his nephew, son of Abdiilaziz. They came with Miinir Bey the Grand Master of the ceremonies, Baker Pasha (whom the Sultan made his ADC on this occasion) and Zeki Bey 1 an intelligent young ADC (speaking French and English). The band played the Royal march and we gave their R. Highnesses chairs close to the dancing to amuse them. The Bittern sailors had stretched a sail on the tennis ground making a splendid floor. After the Princes had watched the dancing we gave them refreshments apart in the little tent. They returned to the dancing for a short time and then departed highly contended. Between some of the dances the sailors of the Bittern sang some choruses which was mostly an amusement. By 8 everyone had gone and we got a late dinner. Saturday 28th June. Alice had her 1st singing lesson of Mme Livadari. We went to a dance at the Fourniers. As I was tired Henry and I left early and Alice stayed with Lady Dickson. Sunday 29'b June. I went to church for the 1st time since my eyes were bad but I did not stay for the sermon. Monday 30th June. Alice had her 1st Greek lesson. We received in the evening. Tuesday 1st July. My 35th birthday. Sent all the servants for a picnic to Belgrade and only Giovanni remained behind. We went to dine with the Persian Ambassador and went in the steam mouche and took Corti. It was a lovely evening and we came back in the full moonlight. The dinner was a large one. I did the honours and Zichy took me to dinner and I had Fournier the other side. After dinner we went into the harem and Mme Kosjek did interpreter. Mme Mokhsin is stouter than ever, but good-natured and more talkative than most Turkish ladies. Wednesday 2nd July. Alice and 1 sat in the garden and read with Alice and Lady Dickson. Had a visit out there from old Mrs Hanson and Mrs Charles H. After luncheon Miss Sarell and Miss Bilinsky came and we

' Zeki Pasha, the future Grand Master of the Artillery.

- 183 practised glees. Mrs Willie and Miss Boyd came to call. We played tennis later. Thursday 3rd July. We sat out and read as usual all the morning and were joined by Dr Dickson and sat and dozed as we read aloud and stayed on to luncheon. Alice had a Greek lesson. In the afternoon Alice and Henry rode. I went in the caique with Lady Dickson to Buyiikdere to leave cards. Mr Oliphant and Ashburnham and Sir Alfred dined with us. Friday 4th July. Sat in the garden and had Jerry read and afterwards Alice read. In the afternoon Mr Crawley 1 came and we had some good games of tennis. Mr Corbett arrived on a visit to us from Athens. Hatzfeldt called. Saturday 5 th July. Had my Turkish lesson and Alice had her singing lesson. In the afternoon Lady Dickson and I went in the oared caique to Kanlica to call on Princess Azize and not finding her in we went to Mrs W. Hanson at Kandilli. She being out we went on to Hobart Pasha's and found them at home. Today Prince Alexander of Battenberg came to Constantinople to visit the Sultan. The Embassies sent down their dragomans to compliment him. Hobart Pasha told me he had to place boats of armed men all up the Bosphorus to prevent a supposed Bulgarian rising which he thought absurd. The Sultan had offered the Prince the hzeddin royal yacht for H.R.H to continue his journey. In the evening, when Sir Alfred came in he told us that the Prince made a good impression but that the Russian Ambassador stood so close to him no one could say much to him. When he, however, delivered his message to the Prince Lobanoff moved off for one minute. The Prince went on about 6 in the Russian frigate to the Black Sea on his journey. Lady Dickson returned to the hotel. Sunday 6th July. Went to church in the morning. In the afternoon Henry, Mr Oliphant, Alice and I went over to Beykoz in the 6-oared caique and made our afternoon tea in the meadows there. It was windy but cool and pleasant. Embassy to dinner as usual. Monday 7 th July. Alice had her Greek lesson. I copied a despatch for Henry. Sat out in the garden and read. Played tennis. Received in the evening people came earlier than usual. Tuesday 8 th July. Wrote to send letters by messenger. Had my Turkish lesson. Sat in the garden till it was time to dress for dinner and at 5.30 went on board the Antelope and went down to Pera to dine with Zichy. We took with us Hatzfeldt, Alice and Ittersum and Corti and Mr Corbett. When we got to town we found the Austrian stationnaire boats waiting to take us on shore and Zichy had sent carriages for us to take us to the Embassy. We dined in his little garden and it got dark before we had finished dinner, the garden was 1

Unable to identify.

- 184 lighted up with many lamps and we sat out all the evening till past 10. It was not very lively and we were not sorry to go. Count Zichy insisted on our walking down the steep hill out side his gates and he gave me his arm and conducted me. The sailors of his despatch boats stood at intervals burning Bengal lights to show us the way. We found the carriages at the bottom of the hill and Zichy accompanied us to Tophane, sailors with lanterns running by the side. Zichy's boats put us on board the Antelope and we returned home — not getting to bed before 12. Wednesday 9th July. Sat in the garden reading in the morning. At 3 had to dress to go to the Palace. Mr Corbett went with us. We had tea on board the Antelope and got to Dolmabah§e about 5. We were joined there by Hobart Pasha and Mrs Hobart who went down in their yacht the Hawk. We had 2 carriages in the drive up to Yildiz. Very few minutes after our arrival the Sultan sent for us. He met us in the centre hall behind a low balustrade in the corner of which there were arranged seats. He seated me next him then Mrs Hobart and then Alice, further off were Henry, Mr Corbett and Hobart Pasha. Outside the balustrade sat Munir Bey and Sir Alfred Sandison. After a short conversation the Sultan offered to walk in the garden and we fetched our shawls for it was windy. We walked out with H.M. to see the birds and beasts and then he took us to that part where there was the swing bridge and he passed over first, he holding my hand. Half way H.M. stopped and insisted upon taking my parasol out of my hand that I might hold on to the rope at the side. Everybody came over well except Alice who was rather frightened and Munir Bey had to help her. This bridge is a very slight suspension one of cords and wood and is over a deep valley with a lake at a great height. We walked on from there to the stables and the Sultan had some of the best horses brought out before us. Then he called his favorite Circassian ADC and told him to show off. He did some wonderful things coming at full galop and getting off and on, whilst the horse was going. The last time as he was kneeling the horse swerved — there was a crash— a small tree broken, and then another bent and the ADC was lying on the ground. The Sultan exclaimed and hid his face but in a second the Circassian jumped up unhurt. He had managed to break his fall by the tree and escaped with a scratch. The Sultan ran to him and taking off the man's cap felt his head in wonder and then seeing he was all right told him to salute us and we walked on to a kiosque. The Sultan said he would like to give Alice a horse and asked me whether, as she had no official position, I would let her take it. I said he must ask the Ambassador but he said if he did he might refuse him and he would rather leave it with me. I said that a wife must obey her husband. However Sir Alfred and Munir settled it between them. The Sultan asked me if I wore

- 185 coloured spectacles for my eyes. I said I did so out of the doors at which he said he would send me some that had belonged to his own father and he hoped I would accept them as a souvenir of father and son. H.M. told Miinir to tell me that if I liked to take the ladies into the kiosque before dinner to arrange their toilettes I could do so we went in 1st and took off our bonnets and made ourselves ready for dinner when we joined by the gentlemen to whose number besides our party were added Osman Pasha, Said Pasha (le petit) and Hayreddin Pasha. We waited some time. They said H.M. had called in the Circassian ADC and was rewarding him for his accident with a handsome present. At last the Sultan came to dinner but it was after 8. After the Turkish march the band played "God save the Queen". All were at table except Miinir who stood behind the Sultan and me to interpret. The Sultan looked much at Alice and asked a good deal about her. He said that ladies at table enlivened the dinner very much and it was a pleasure denied to the Turks. He ate little but talked a great deal. The dinner was cold and bad notwithstanding the 3 French cooks we hear he has lately got. Our party and Miinir accompanied H.M. after dinner to the withdrawing room and the gentlemen smoked cigarettes. At 10.30 we asked to leave to go. The Sultan begged each lady to take a small bunch of flowers. After dinner Hobart went back to the dining room for a bonbon for Mrs Hobart and was just giving for one for Alice, when the Sultan called him and said give her this one — one he had taken for her from the table. We returned to the Palace in carriages of the Sultan and at the gates got into our own. Reached home about 12. Thursday 10th July. Alice had Greek lesson. I had a headache and did not get up till 2. We had glee practise with Mrs Washington. Sat out in tent. Alice and Henry rode. May came to see me and also Mrs Pusey. We dined with Mr Corti and met the Serkis, Mantilla and Condouriotis. Very dull evening. Friday 11th July. Sat in the garden in the morning. Hobart Pasha came in while we were at luncheon and said they had come up in the Hawk and were going to the Black Sea to fish. I went to call on Mme Fournier — her day. Found some few people there, called on Mme Longeville who was out. Came home and played tennis and found it very hot playing. Nelly Hatzfeldt came and played. We dined quite alone. Saturday 12th July. Alice had singing lesson and I Turkish lesson. Afterwards we went out and read in the garden. It blew hard all day and we hoped it would rain. At 5 Henry and I drove to Biiyiikdere to pay some visits. Found Mme Mantilla at home and Mme Serkis. Had a very slight shower but the strong wind drove off the rain to my sorrow. We were alone at dinner.

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Sunday 13th July. Went to church. Miss Boyd came to church and sat in garden with us afterwards. After lunch taught Jerry his catechism. At 4 went out in 10-oared boat with Henry, the General, General Hamley 1 , Mr Smijth, Mr Oliphant. We went to Korfez to meet Mrs Willie and May. As they did not come we went on leaving Jerry halfway to tell them where we were. Went on to where we went last time where there is a spring but it was so burnt up it was hardly pretty. Made our tea and then returned home. When the cavass was sent to call Jerry it was found that he had run away in a fright of robbers back to the boat. Sir R. and Lady Wood 2 and Captain Farquhar, Mr Jaques and Mr Rodgers all 3 officers of U.S.S. Quinebaug dined with us besides the Embassy. Monday 14th July. While Alice was taking her Greek lesson I arranged and tidied drawers. Mrs Hobart called while we were at work then came Mrs A. and Mrs Hy Hanson. They stayed an hour. Alice finished reading the "Life of Barneveld" which we have read aloud. I also repeated the whole of "Morte d'Arthur' which I had been learning by heart for some time. I was lying down in my room resting when Mrs Willy Hanson came to call and she came up and we had a long talk over herself and her ways and I tried to give her good advice. Mr Graves 3 and Mr [blank] 2 newly arrived student dragomen came to dine and sleep. Received in the evening as usual — not many people came. Tuesday 15th July. I stayed in bed till 11 but wrote for Henry and letters of my own for messenger. Had my Turkish lesson. Very hot day — not very well, laid down in my room all the afternoon, the General, Mrs Smijth and Prezziosi dined with us. Wednesday 16th July. Arranged and tidied my boudoir. Nazi] came to lunch and stayed all the afternoon till 5. It was very hot and South wind blow hard. Sat in the garden. Hatzfeldt called. We dined at the French Embassy and met Mme Bartholeyns 4 and 2 daughters, Zichy and Corti. Very hot evening. Went to bed with the window open when suddenly the North wind got us up and had to shut it. Thursday 17th July. The wind blew all the morning to our regret and we were afraid Blanche 5 would suffer at sea. Wrote letters in the morning, Alice had Greek lesson. Watched with glasses for the arrival of the Varna boat. They came at about 1 o'clock in the steam launch from Kavak. Had had a very good passage and Blanche had not been ill. Looking well but very thin. 1 Sir E.B. Hamley, member of the Bulgarian border delimitation commission. 2

Sir Richard Wood had served in the Turkish Navy in Syria during the Mehmed Ali affair.

3

R. Graves.

4

Wife of the Belgian minister.

5

Lady Layard's younger sister.

- 187 After luncheon we sat in the garden in the tent. Alice and Henry went out riding at 5. Blanche and I sat together. Heard Jerry read. Friday 18lh July. Set out and read, began Creasy's Ottoman Turks. After lunch we went out in the big caique. Generals Hamely and Dickson and Mr Bland going with us and we went to the Sweet Waters of Asia where we disembarked close to the Kiosque there were a good many Turkish women sitting there. We met Mr Arthur Hanson and Dot and Mrs Willie and Kathleen and walked with them to the bridge and the little river and in the large field there we made our tea and then came home. Sir Alfred, Mr Smijth and Mr Ashburnham dined with us. Blanche sang in the evening. Saturday 19th July. 1 had Turkish lesson. Alice had singing lesson. We read aloud for a little while till lunch. Had glee practice at 4 but none of the girls came. Mrs Sandison called. At 5, Princess Azize came with her little boy and afterwards Nazh and Princess Halim Pasha, Captain Pusey came with the blue jackets. Mme Mantilla also came. The men sang choruses and danced hornpipes to amuse the ladies and we all sat in the tent where Jerry and Florence served refreshments. About 7 they sang God Save the Queen and departed and we took the ladies a little walk in the garden and as Mr Bland and Mr Oliphant were playing lawn tennis we stopped a moment to see it. About 7.30 the ladies left. Mr Bland dined. Blanche sang in the evening. Sunday 20th July. Went to church in the evening and afterwards I went to see Lady Dickson who is still ailing. In the afternoon the 6-oared caique went out and took Henry and Alice, B and Edward, Ashburnham and Oliphant I stayed at home and rested. Mr Nicolson the new secretary arrived from England. The General and Mr Oliphant dined with us besides the Embassy. Monday 21s1 July. Alice had a Turkish lesson. I sang with Blanche. Mrs A. Hanson came and we had great discussion about refugee embroidery. Later old Mrs Hanson and Mrs Charles called. Henry drove to Biiyiikdere with Blanche. We stayed at home and played tennis. Received in the evening and a good many people came. Tuesday 22 nd July. Copied for Henry for the messenger. Had Turkish lesson. Had the glee practice; none of the ladies came. Mrs Pusey called. Henry, Alice, Blanche and Edward went riding. I played tennis and had some very good games. It was very hot. Madame Fournier called. The Hobarts and Mr Smijth dined with us. In the evening I sang. Hobart amused us by the account of his dinner with the Sultan on Sunday. He dined tête à tête and they managed to talk with the help of couple of dictionaries calling an ADC (when they came to a dead lock). The Sultan asked him why he would not go to Osman Pasha's room to wait to see H.M to which he said "Efendim o

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adami hi§ severim". It appears that Osman Pasha is always rude to Hobart and tries to prevent him from seeing H.M. Then the Sultan asked Hobart why he was late and Hobart said that they forgot to send the mouche for him but that at the Arsenal "hepsi ejekler dirler". Wednesday 23rd July. Copied music and wrote in the morning. At 2 went out in the steam launch with Mrs Sandison to Hisar to call at Ahmed Vefik's harem. It was an exceptionally hot day and it was rather a toil to get up the hill. We found his wife and eldest married daughter at home and sat with them about an hour. We there descended to our steam launch and went across to Kanlica to call on Princess A/.i/c' who is a wife of Izzet Bey grandson of Fuad Pasha lives in the fine house built by Fuad, but as it is not kept up the family being poor a good deal of it has fallen into disrepair. Got home about 6 and found them playing tennis. Thursday 24th July. Alice had a Greek lesson. I trimmed a garden hat for Blanche and we sat in the garden and Blanche read French aloud. In the afternoon we played tennis. Mr Oliphant dined with us. After dinner we went out in the caique to Buyiikdere to hear the band play. Friday 25th July. Blanche and Alice bathed in the morning. After breakfast I washed a lot of lace for Blanche and then worked while Blanche read French to me. Henry, Blanche, Alice and Edward went out riding. I did not go out. We had the Glee practice in the afternoon. Mrs W. Hanson, May and Mr Oliphant called. We had a dinner party to which came M. and Mme Serkis, M. and Mme Raab, Mr Florez de Garcia 2 , M. Graziani 3 , M. de Longeville. I sang in the evening. Saturday 26"1 July. I had Turkish, Alice had singing lesson. We read and worked and in the afternoon played tennis. Sunday 27"1 July. Went to church service in the morning. The wind was so high that we gave up going out in the caique and sat in the garden instead and Blanche Bilinsky came and sat with us. Usual Embassy dinner and Sir R. and Lady Wood. Monday 28"' July. I was in my room all day with a headache. Mrs A. Hanson and Eda d'Ehrenhoff came to see me. The change of Ministry is after a 3 weeks' crises finally decided on and Caratheodory and Hayreddin are out. Arifi Pasha is the head of the new government. He is a very weak good man and was once Grand Vizier for 7 days and nearly died of the responsibility. Safvet Pasha is the new Minister of Foreign Affairs and is coming from Paris.

1

J J

A sister of Princess Nazli. Secretary at the Spanish legation. Dragoman at the Italian legation.

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A great many people came in the evening and there was a deal of political talk. Tuesday 29th July. Had my Turkish lesson after I had written for the messenger. Alice was laid up with a face ache and had to keep her bed. Henry went to see the Sultan. We played tennis. At about 5 Said Pasha (English Said) and Fuad Pasha (the General) arrived. We had not seen our dear friend Said for more than a year as he had not been banished as Governor first of Angora and then of Kastamonu. Henry and Sir Alfred arrived home just at 8 o'clock in time for dinner. Sir C. Dickson also dined with us. Just as they were leaving we heard a cry of fire and discovered that there was a house burning at Biiyiikdere. Luckily there was not a breath of wind, the fire did not spread. Wednesday 30th July. Henry went out early before breakfast. Had my hair washed. Blanche and I worked and read. Thursday 31sl July. Henry went out before breakfast. In the afternoon Blanche and I drove to Biiyiikdere and also to Yenikoy to pay visits. Found no one in but Mme Allahverdi. We all went down in the steam launch to dine with the Persian Ambassador at Bebek. Lovely moonlight night. There had been a great fire at Bebek in the afternoon which was still smoking. All the Corps Diplomatique dined there. We went into the harem after dinner and got home about 12 o'clock. Friday 1st August. Was in bed all day, with headache. Got better in the evening and went to the Fourniers' ball but did not stay late. Blanche and I dressed in black both alike. Saturday 2nd August. At 10 o'clock we went on board Hobart Pasha's yacht the Hawk and he took us Blanche and Edward, Alice and Mr Oliphant down to town. We got down about 12 and anchored close to Dolmabah9e gardens and sent his captain on shore to ask when the ceremony for the blessing of the camels and the departure of the Imperial presents took place. He came back to say it would come off at once and that the Sultan will come to one window and pray one hour. So we went ashore and landed at the guard house where there were a great many ADC's of the Sultan, amongst whom I recognised Refik Bey, Ahmed Vefik's son and spoke to him; he at once took me up to the ADC's apartment where we had coffee in pink enamel zarjs with small diamonds. After waiting a little while we were taken to another apartment. It appeared that Refik had telegraphed to Miinir Bey at the Palace to say I was there and Miinir ordered we should be taken to the apartment where Hayredin Pasha had been lodged on his first arrival here in the country. We had to wait some time there and it began to grow somewhat tedious and we were glad of lemonade and then a visit from Tahir Bey and Col. Baker

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who asked if we would like to go down to see the camels loaded. So we went down to the garden and saw a high kind of scaffold all covered with bright coloured silks lifted and put on the back of the kneeling camel. While we were watching there Mrs Hobart and Alice said they would like to go to the gate to see the Sultan arrive and they had scarcely gone when MUnir Bey came breathless to beg we would go into the Palace as the Sultan had heard of my being there and offered us to see the ceremony from the windows. We run after Miinir as the ceremony was waiting to begin and ran past a long row of ulema and of ADC's who were drawn up. We found ourselves on the ground floor in a room where were many ADC's amongst them the Frenchman Dreysse who was presented to me - a very second rate common looking man and also Doctor Blanc an old French Doctor off the Messageries Maritimes who seemed to be in his dotage. He was placed in the Palace by Fournier. After waiting a few minutes the 2 camels made their appearance. The first was led by an old gentleman who they said was 2nd master of the ceremonies and the 2nd who was only for show was led by a servant. They went round and round for an hour while the Sultan and Sheikh ul Islam prayed in upper window and then the Sultan's letter was sent down in a green satin envelope which was delivered by the ADC to the Sure Emini who was going to Mecca to deliver the letter and presents from H.M. When he had received the letter he walked away and the camels after him and then came another procession, a lot of common men shouting and jumping representing pilgrims. They bore on their shoulders an old man standing bolt-up and resting on 2 sticks which they held up to him. Behind them came a string of mules with coffers laden with money and a smart palaquin borne by mules. I suppose there were about 12 mules altogether when they had followed the camels out at the great gate. The ceremony was over and the mullahs and ADC's were released from their duty and filed off. Amongst the ADC's there was an Englishman of the gendarmerie Col. Baker and in the middle of ceremony the Sultan, who did not know him sent down to ask his name, izzet Bey was also there and we amused ourselves with bowing to him in order to embarrass him as he only dared make the smallest inclination of his head. When the ceremony was over we prepared to depart but were stopped by Miinir Bey who came to say the Sultan wished to see me as soon as he had changed his uniform. Very shortly after Miinir Bey fetched me and H.M. received me in the long gallery of the Palace. He was most amiable and kind and said he only wished 1 had let him know that I wished to come, he would have prepared, that he did not look on Henry and myself as Ambassador and Ambassadress but as friends and we were to come and go to the Palace when we liked. On thanking H.M. 1 said I thought I had given proof of how I had taken him at his word in venturing

- 191 thus to present myself at the Palace unbidden. When H.M. enquired after Henry, I told him that he had not accompanied me on what he concluded a wild goose chase and that he naturally would have no idea of seeing H.M. I admired the pictures and the view from the windows. At that moment a large English steamer passed and H.M. remarked that he hoped soon there would be Turkish steamers of the same sort. He then said that as we had friends, he would not keep me and I declared that not having lunched I was hungry and so I joined the rest and we returned to Hobart's yacht and set to work to lunch as soon as we arrived; in the middle of the meal the Master came down and announced " one man from Palace with table". On going to see it turned out to be Munir Bey with a lovely mother's pearl bookcase which the Sultan sent me. It is very fine and has an inlaid inscription which I have had thus translated. "May the books of commentary of the Koran and the Traditions of the Prophet remain in this bookcase as long as long as the happy Emperor remains in the throne, the Sultan Mahmud, the reformer, the just, the noble, the equitable monarch whose court resembles that of Çem§id". We hoisted the bookcase on the top of the steam launch and carried it home. We stopped at Mrs Willie's to leave May Boyd and got some tea and to pick up Mrs Arthur Hanson who is come to stay a day or two with us. Got home about 6 rather tired. Sunday 3rd August. Went to church in the morning. It blew hard in the afternoon so I did not go out but stayed in and wrote. Usual dinner. Monday 4th August. I wrote a lot of letters before breakfast. Alice had a Greek lesson. I copied for Henry. Blanche and I practised our singing. In the afternoon Blanche and I drove to Biiytikdere and paid visits and then went to Yenikôy to pay others and on our return home played tennis. Very small party in the evening, the smallest Monday reception we had this year. Tuesday 5 lh August. Messenger went off. Copies for Henry spent a long time trimming up a bouquet with red satin and lace to send to the Sultan as it is his fête day. Had my Turkish lesson. At 2 o'clock, after luncheon, we went on board the Antelope. We had with us the Belgian Minister and his wife and daughters, Hatzfeldt, Nelly, Ittersum, the Mantillas, Dickson and some of our own secretaries. We went to the Islands and we first stopped at Halki when Henry, Blanche and I landed to call on old Salih Pasha 1 at the Naval school. The old gentleman expected us and the scholars were drawn up as a guard of honor. Woods Bey was also there. We went over the establishment and Woods tried to show us a galvanic battery and torpedo affair and it would not go off! We afterwards heard that one of the boys had in his pocket the connecting lock!! We returned to the Antelope and went to 1

Vice-admiral, director of the Naval School.

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Prinkipo and all the party except Henry and I and Hatzfeldt, Ittersum and Mantilla landed to have a donkey ride and see the Island. When they returned a little after 8 we were all hungry and there was a delay which I could not account for; on going down to see I found that the Captain's steward had drunk up all the claret cup which Giovanni had prepared and was tipsy. However more cups were made and we got to dinner but as it went on the steward fell down and had to be banished. When we got near Constantinople we found that there were great illuminations for the Sultan's fête and as it was a lovely calm moonlit night, we had a lovely journey home. The illuminations in some places were very effective and gave one some idea of what they must have been in the good old times. We were very sorry that owing to our having been unaware of the intention to illuminate we had none at our Embassy and Therapia was the darkest village on the Bosphorus. Wednesday 6th August. Henry went down the Bosphorus before our breakfast. Blanche, Edward and Alice and Mrs Arthur and Corti went to the Bazaars and from there Mrs Arthur returned home having been with us since Saturday. Henry returned to lunch. We played tennis. Thursday 7"1 August. Alice had a Greek lesson. Blanche and I practised singing. Doctor Dickson lunched with us. In the afternoon all our party took a long ride. I sat in the garden and had visits from General Dickson and Mme Bartholeyns. Mr Wallace dined with us and in the evening Blanche sang to him and he translated a Russian song for her. Friday 8 th August. Directly after lunch Blanche and I went to Beylerbey to call on Nazli. From there we went on to Arnavutkôy and called on Mme Carathéodory Pasha who was at home then to Kandilli. There we found ponies waiting for us to take us to the top of the hill. Mr Bland who was with us walked. We went to Mrs Henry's and saw her on her stretcher to which she is now confirmed having broken a tendon in her leg. I went to call on Mrs Pusey and then went back to Mrs Henry and had tea in the garden. We walked next to Mrs Hanson's and from there to Mrs Arthur's and afterwards called on Mrs Hobart, only got home to dinner quite fatigued. Saturday 9th August. Henry went to town before breakfast and from there he went to see the Sultan. I had a headache and stayed in bed till 4 when I got up and went in the garden but I came in and went to bed again. Today I finished all the work of embroidered holes which I had been more than a year doing for a dressing gown. Eda d'Ehrenhoff came down to stay till Monday. Sunday lO"1 August. Neither I nor Edward went to church but sat together talking and Doctor Patterson came and prescribed us. Edward took his medicine and got better and I did not take one and did too (blank]

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Monday 11th August. It was very hot and steaming all the morning. After lunch I went out and sat in the garden with Henry and Mile Waldstrom who had come to fetch Eda when at about 3, it came on suddenly to blow almost a hurricane and there was quite a whirlwind of dust so that we had to come indoors. Eda and Mile Waldstrom returned to town about 4. In the evening we had our usual dance and a great many people came. Sunday I2,h August. Had my Turkish lesson. We were to have dined at the Palace but there came a telegram to say the Sultan was not well. Messenger left. Wednesday 13th August. Went at 1 o'clock with Henry and Blanche in the carriage to the Bends for a picnic given by General and Lady Dickson. It was rather a hot drive. We got there about 2 and were a very large party — the Puseys, Mrs Willie and Miss Boyd, all our Embassy, Mr Oliphant, Mr Grace, Mr Kay. We had a large dinner prepared for us which lasted about one and a half hour. At the end of it, we moved down to the bend and sat there some of us, others walked in the wood, some rode, some sauntered until about 6 when we all gathered together again and had tea or pretended to do so, for we had had such an immense lunch that it was impossible to begin again to eat so soon. At about 7 we set off home again. We dined at 8 and went to bed. Thursday 14th August. Read to Blanche in the morning. In the afternoon Nazli came and launched with us and stayed a good time. Friday 15th August. We went off at 10 o'clock to the Prinkipo Regatta. We took the Dicksons and all the Embassy, Captain Swaine and the 6 student Dragomen and went in the Antelope. We stopped at Tophane and picked up Eda d'Ehrenhoff and Mile Waldstrom. We got to the islands while the races were going on and anchored. It was a very pretty sight though there were not so many fine ships as we had last year. The German Ambassador was there. We had the Faun and the Bittern besides the Antelope and there was the Sultan's yacht with the young Princes and Hobart in his yacht. At about 1 we had luncheon and then afterwards Henry and I went to call on the little Princes. While we were there (accompanied by Blanche) Mttnir Bey arrived from Constantinople. He said he was at the Selamlik where the Sultan asked him why he was there and he ordered him to take a steam launch and to go off and join the Princes. From there we went on board the Faun to see the dancing and stayed there some little time when presently the little Princes arrived there to return our visit and we took them up on the poop from where they were amused to watch the dancing. Then one of the officers took them round the ship taking the smallest one up in his arms to carry him down the steep steps. When they were gone, Hobart Pasha and Mr Smijth came and begged us to stay for the fireworks. We said that we were going home for

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dinner but they insisted so much that at last I returned to the Antelope to arrange with Giovanni about getting some meal and to provide us with dinner which was no easy matter as we were to be about 23 at table. Nelly Hatzfeldt came with her father to call on us so we made her remain with us and promised to send her home tomorrow. We got our dinner rather late but very good and afterwards went on deck to see the illuminations and fire works. The island looked very pretty but the fireworks were very poor and we left about 9.30 to return home. Said Pasha (English Said) who was staying at the Islands came on board and dined with us and we stopped to drop him at his house on the Bosphorus. We stopped again at Arnavutkoy to drop the student dragomen and were obliged to carry on Eda and Miss Waldstrom with us and find beds for them and for Nelly. After dinner on the way home Lady Dickson and I being very tired, we retired to rest in the cabins. The others all amused themselves with singing over "Pinafore" We got home nearer 1 than 12 o'clock. Saturday 16th August. I remained in bed all day having a headache. Got up about 4 and dressed to go to Yildiz to dine with the Sultan. We went in the Antelope and anchored at Dolmabah9e. Just as we were going to land we saw Hobart's yacht near us and we concluded [he] and Mrs Hobart were going to dine there too. Hobart sent us a launch to land in which proved of little use as it was too large to get close to the quay and he had afterwards to send us a little boat to get into. Henry and Edward and I went in the open carriage, Sir Alfred, Alice and Blanche in a shut one and the Hobarts in another. We drove to Yildiz, Miinir Bey received us when we had taken off our cloaks we went up stairs and waited a short time before the Sultan summoned us. He received us very kindly, made Blanche many civil speeches, hoped she enjoyed the Bosphorus and then led the way to dinner. The party was a large one. Capt. Wingfield dined with us and our party including the Hobarts was 9. Mr Dreysse, the French ADC, Mr Blanc, the French Doctor, Osman Pasha, Hamdi Bey and I believe one or two others were of the party. Miinir Bey stood by the Sultan interpreting. H.M. talked a good deal. He said Blanche reminded him of his mother who was very beautiful, that the only reproach he had to make to his father was his having allowed her to die of jealousy. His mother had been so fond of him that she could not bear to see him to divide his attentions between her and his other wives. At the beginning of dinner the military band played but it was stopped and Turkish music was played for Blanches edification. It was rather trying to us Europeans but the Sultan seemed to enjoy it and explained to me from time to time the meaning of the words sung. One song he pointed out as having been composed by his father and dedicated to his mother and H.M. said the Sultana had dedicated one to

- 195 him in return. I sat at table between the Sultan and Osman Pasha who had Blanche on the other side of him. Next her was Sir Alfred. On the other side of the Sultan, was Mrs Hobart, then Henry, then Alice, then Hamdi Bey, then Edward and then Dreysse The dinner was rather better than usual. We had a good jelly with water melon in it. After dinner we ladies sat and talked in one room with Edward and the 2 little Princes under the care of Hamdi Bey and Miinir Bey. The Sultan smoked in the next room with Henry and Hobart Pasha. In about 1/2 hour the gentlemen came back and the Sultan called up Osman Pasha's little boy who was in attendance on the Princes who presented him to us by saying he was betrothed to his own daughter. Then he led the way to the hall where in an alcove were prepared seats in semicircle for us to sit and there began a kind of Pantomime. The band was in one corner and the musicians were all dressed up in fancy dress - a kind of white uniform coat with gold lace, blue knickerbockers and shoes with a small cap with a feather in it. The leader was more fantastically got up - was painted and wore false hair and played the buffoon. At the same time that he led, played 2 drums and cymbals with his knees. Then came 2 Pierrots an old and young one and 3 lads dressed in kind of lacquey dresses with breeches and Scotch caps! and another old creature with "incroyable' coat. They danced and were funny and the leader of the band was really comic. After some dancing there came some conjurors. A man who swallowed 3/4 of a sword and then swallowed raw eggs shell and after then brought them up again. It was very entertaining and lasted till about 11 o'clock when the Sultan rose to leave the hall. H.M. took us back into a small room for a few minutes and then congedied us and we returned to the Antelope and got to bed about 1 o'clock. Sunday 17"' August. Got up and went to church but I was so tired and had such a headache that I was obliged to keep on the sofa and was not able to move all day. Mr Oliphant came to tea and directly after I was obliged to go to bed. Monday 18th August. I was not well enough to get up till the evening for dinner. Mrs A. Hanson called and came and sat with me and we talked about embroideries etc. Tuesday 19th August. Copied for Henry and wrote for messenger who left. Had my Turkish lesson. Read with Blanche in the drawing room. We played tennis in the afternoon. Told Jerry to come and pick up ball and he did not make his appearance. It appeared that he had fought Mrs Arthur's refugee servant boy and that he had been reprimanded by Giovanni at which he sulked and hid himself and presently we heard of him with the Bittern sailors at Kirefburnu. Henry, Alice, Blanche and Edward and I dined at Corti's. Met Zichy and the Fourniers and Lobanoff. Mme Fournier very anxious about M.

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Fourchon, one of their secretaries who has been very ill and is so still. On our return home we found that Jerry had returned from the Bittern at 9.30 and had got in over the wall and rushed to bed. Wednesday 20th August. Jerry did not come with my tea but soon after I was up I heard a scuffle and opening the door there was Jerry in his shirt and trousers and Herbert after him with a stick and Jerry was carried off howling to James for penal servitude. Henry, Alice and Blanche went for a ride, we others played tennis. Thursday 21st August. We 5 drove to Pera, Edward going on the box. It was very hot and dusty. I did not move out of the house. Henry went to pay some visits. We had lunch in the housekeeper's room. Giovanni met us and provided risotto and beef steaks. I walked in the garden. After lunch Edward, Blanche and Alice went to the Bazars and came back at 5 when we had tea and then set off home to Therapia. In the evening there was a short shower of rain but unfortunately too short. Friday 22nd August. Wrote letters for the post. Was a long time fitting and trying my old pink dress which was renovated. Then Blanche and I read. They all rode in the afternoon except Edward and I and we played tennis with some of the secretaries. Afterwards he and I walked in the garden to see Jerry at his penal servitude. He was clearing a bit of ground from sticks and was in his flannel and trousers a little misery to look at! Saturday 23rd August. I was in bed most of the day with headache. Got up by 5 to go to dine at Zeyneb Hanim's. When we were ready they came to say the steam launch had broken down. We 3(Alice, Blanche and 1) walked off to Petala's to tell Lady Dickson and sent to ask for the Antelope barge. It came for us in 5 minutes and we rowed off with Lady Dickson and did not got there very late. Nazli was there to receive us and Princess Zeyneb was very cordial. We were taken upstairs to take off our bonnets and then I asked if I might send away the boat and if I could have Halim Pasha's steam launch to return home. The Princess said she would send to ask the Grand Vizier for his as he lives in the same village. After sunset we sat down to dinner a la turque. We dined on a round kind of silver tray placed on a small table. We had 4 small tureens placed before us and eat out of them as we felt inclined then followed a very good Turkish dinner of about 20 dishes. We 4 sat with Nazli and were afterwards joined by Princess Halim Pasha, at a corresponding table sat Zeyneb Hanim and 2 friends. They waited for the gun before they began, it being Ramadan and they got through their dinner quicker than we did in order to get their smoke. After dinner we sat and talked and when the hour for prayer came we were taken to see it; we went down a staircase leading to the selamlik and at the bottom the door was open

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and a screen put up. There were about 30 men all at prayers led by a Hodja. The Princess and her maidens were at the top of the stairs in their veils and on their carpets and followed the prayer protrating themselves and standing up at the right moment. It was wonderful to see how the fat old Princess Zeyneb got up and down. Prayers being over the slaves sang and played and 2 of them danced and danced very well. They danced a Zeybek dance of a lover after his fiancée. At 10 we took leave and the steam launch was ready and brought us home after a very pleasant evening. Sunday 24th August. We hear that poor Mr Fourchon is much worse and not expected to live and we have put off our dance of tomorrow night. Embassy dined with us and May came to stay. Monday 25th August. Blanche's 31st birthday. Gave her some little presents and drank to her health in the evening. Poor Mr Fourchon died this morning at 4. In the evening General Dickson and Captain Swaine came in and we had a little waltz in the evening. I playing the piano. Tuesday 26th August. Edward and Mr Bland and to Mr Ashburnham went to Mr Fourchon's funeral. Henry could not go to it on, seeing the messenger going off. In the afternoon we played tennis. Wednesday 27th August. Blanche, Edward and Alice went to the mosques with Sir Alfred. Henry had a meeting of Ambassadors on the Greek question. Afterwards we had lawn tennis and Hatzfeldt played with us and Zichy tried but in his zeal he rushed about and ended by coming down with a flop. We played till quite late. Thursday 28th August. In the morning Edward read Gibbon to us in the breakfast room. After luncheon we all set off in the steam launch for Hobart Pasha's party at Kandilli. We lent the Antelope to the rest of the people to go down in and so Captain Wingfield took down a large party and the Bittern was also anchored at Bebek. It was rather a hike up the hill to get to the house and when we got there we found they had arranged their terrace very prettily with various flags and carpets and chairs and there Hobart and his wife received and tea was given. In the hall of the house there was dancing and supper was prepared upstairs for those who remained to dance in the evening. We stayed till 6.30 when we made our way back to the launch bringing the Dicksons home also. We were back for dinner. Friday 29th August. Edward read aloud to us. Long dresses came from Paris, tried them on. At 1 Princes Azize called with her French lady and little boy and another young lady and stayed till 4. Blanche sang to her. Mile Zarifi came to join the riding party and they went out all except Edward who played lawn tennis. I went out in the caique to pay visits. Went down to Mme Hilmi Pasha but she was not in. Coming back I went round to Beykoz to see Mr

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Smijth and Dr. Zohrab fish. They were not catching much so I did not stay with them. Captain Swaine dined with us. Sang in the evening. Saturday 30th August. My Turkish lesson. Edward, Blanche and Alice went off in the steam launch to Scutari to see the cemeteries. All the afternoon I sat out with Henry in the garden and read and worked and then later we played tennis. It was a very windy day and very dusty so that I came in at 5.30. Sunday 31s' August. When I woke I found my eyes so bloodshot that I stayed in bed and sent for Dr. Zohrab who said I must remain in the dark which I did. The others went out in the grand caique and walked up to the Genoese castle. Lady Dickson came to see me and also Mrs Hobart. The latter stayed all the afternoon discussing religion, dress, looks but still did not make a very good impression on me. The ring of the metal was not true. Monday I s ' September. I stayed in bed late. Later on arranged the red sash on Blanche's gown for tonight's dance and in the afternoon I made Jerry learn his lessons. I dined upstairs and only came down in the evening and even then wore my spectacles. We danced in the drawing room and had tea in the corridor and the supper in the waiting room. Being the last of our Monday dances a great many people came. At 12 there was supper and afterwards there was a cotillion led by Blanche and Mr Bland nearly everybody stayed for it and it was very animated and was kept till 2.30. We had Camelieres band of 4 musicians and they played very well. May came to stay. Tuesday 2nd September. We were up late and Blanche, Alice and I had tea in my room. Admiral Hornby arrived in the Helicon and he and Mr Winslow came to stay with us. Mrs A. Hanson came and brought up some china she had bought for us from the Bazaars and we had rather fun over dividing it. I did not go out but the others went on board the Hawk and he took them down to the Khedive's garden at Emirgan for a tea picnic. I taught Jerry and read. Dr. Millingen came and prescribed for my eyes. The Hobarts and Wingfield dined with us so we have a party of 11. Blanche sang a little we were all sleepy and went early to bed. Wednesday 3rd September. Rain at last. It blew hard and there was a soaking penetrating rain all the morning. This is the first real rain since April. It cleared in the afternoon and the others played tennis. I did not go out. Read and wrote at home. And copied music for Blanche. The Dicksons and Sir Baldwin Walker, Captain of the Helicon dined. Mr Nicolson 1 , Bland, Oliphant and Butcher 2 came in after dinner and we sang through "Pinafore" for the Admiral's edification and afterwards we adjourned to the corridor and 1 A . Nicolson, third secretary at the embassy. Unable to identify.

- 199 I played while they danced bits of the cotillion. There was an attempt and failure at the rest and then we finished up by singing "rolling home" and "Three Jews" and after a very jolly evening I went to bed about 12. Thursday 4 th September. I copied music for Blanche all the morning. She and May practised together. Alice had a Greek lesson. Princess Halim and her 2 daughters came to see me and stayed about 2 hours. She is going to Paris and London and we talked a deal on the subject and she asked me to ask Mrs Walker to go as her dame de compagnie. When she was gone Henry came and sat with me in the boudoir a little and then Montholon called afterwards I went to my own room and wrote to Emilia and sent her letters of introduction for Venice. May left us and returned to Kandilli. Mr Kirkness, the admiral's secretary dined with us. As Blanche, Alice and Edward had had a long ride in the afternoon they were rather tired and we did not have much music. Friday 5th September. Wrote and copied music in the morning. After lunch I went off in the steam launch to see Nazli and to answer her note asking me to make enquiries about a certain converted Musulman German Ahmed Zeki who wants to marry her. I had to take her a very unfavourable report. He has only been a Musulmann for 3 weeks. Left the Russian army for his debts and his parentage was Russian. Advised her strongly against it. She determined to follow our advice. She showed me his photo and a long French letter written in the most absurd highflown manner. On the way home I called on Mme Hilmi but she was out. I found them all playing tennis with Nelly and Hatzfeldt on my return. Blanche and I went to call on Mme Fournier but she did not receive. Mr Hatzfeldt and Mr Smijth and Nicolson dined. We sang "Pinafore" in the evening. Saturday 6th September. Blanche and Edward and drove in to Pera to be photoed. I had my Turkish lesson, Alice a singing lesson. Mrs Privilegio came to ask for money for the poor. Mrs Dickson came to luncheon and also Mrs Walker. I arranged with her that she should go as dame de compagnie with Princess Halim when she goes to Europe. Sat out in the grove whilst the others were playing lawn tennis and then came in and wrote. Blanche and Edward came home about 4. The Mantillas called. Prof. Sayce 1 , Mr Oliphant dined. The chancery and the Dicksons came in afterwards and we had singing all the evening. Sunday 7th September. Went to church in the morning. Mrs Willie came in to ask if she should come up to tennis tomorrow. Dr. Millingen came and washed out my eyes with nitrate of silver which made them smart very

' A.H. Sayce, professor of Assiriology at Cambridge.

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much for sometimes. May came and stayed for lunch. Prof. Sachau 1 a German who had brought letters for Henry also came for lunch. Heard Jerry his catechism and at 3 we went out in the grand caique (10 oars). Henry and I, Blanche and Edwards, Alice, Mr Winslow, the Admiral, Mr Oliphant and May. We went to the Symplegades the rocks just at the entrance of the Black Sea and landed and climbed up to the altar on the top where we made our tea and remained about an hour. It took about 1 1/2 hour to row there and about 1 hour to come back; we got home in time to dress for dinner. May went down to Kandilli in a caique. Besides the embassy we had the Dicksons, Mrs Oliphant, Captain [illegible) and Capt. Fitzroy to dinner. Count Corti came in the evening. Blanche sang and we sang Hark yee neighbours in chorus. The Admiral and Mr Winslow left us and went on board the Helicon to leave for the Fleet at daybreak. Monday 8th September. Blanche came into my room before breakfast and finished reading to me Blind's Russian conspiracies, 2nd Part. Edward read aloud Mr Oliphant's Syria. Alice had a Greek lesson. Mrs W. Hanson and May came to luncheon and also the Grand Vizier Arifi Pasha and his mild son, a shy youth from whom although he spoke French, there was no dragging out a word. Directly after lunch Blanche and I went off in the steam launch to call on the Princess Halim Pasha. It was horridly rough going down and it was not so easy to land at Emirgan. We stayed about 1/2 hour. The Princess was very nice and had up diamond ringed chebougues and diamond shedded drinking cups in Blanche's honor. The Prince himself was there and very pleasant. We returned straight home and landed at Petala's. Found them all at tennis. Mrs Hanson left but May remained to dine and sleep. Hatzfeldt, Nelly, Ittersum and Corti dined with us and Mr Wallace. After dinner Blanche sang and we had a few Pinafore choruses. Then I played some valses in the corridor and the others danced some figures of the cotillion. We finished up with "calling home" and "Three Jews" and went to bed at 11.30. Tuesday 9,h September. Wrote Henry's letters for him. At 8.30 Dr. Millingen came and did my eyes. I had such a headache I had to go to bed again. Mrs A. Hanson came up and brought us some more china but I was not well enough to talk to her and got worse in the afternoon. However, as Blanche, Alice and Henry and Edward were going to ride and Nazli was expected I got on the sofa. Presently I had a message to say her mouche had broken down at Yenikoy and to beg me to send the carriage for her. A few minutes later Mme Hilmi Pasha and her sister arrived and they were shown up in my bedroom. They happily did not stay long. Nazli arrived about 4 and

* Ed. Sachau, professor of Islamic studies at Berlin.

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I gave her tea. They came in from their ride at 5 and came and had tea in my room but I got so ill. I had to send them away and go back to bed. Nazli returned home in our launch. The Hobarts dined here and they all went to the dance on board the Antelope. Wednesday 10th September. Better but not up. Blanche sat with me and we settled the great China bowl question as to which she should choose to buy and which I should have! I got on the sofa in the afternoon. Henry got an invitation to go to the Sultan an hour after sunset. The others played tennis in the afternoon. Henry had to set off dinnerless about 6. I and Alice and Blanche and Edward dined at the French Embassy and met Sir C. and Lady Dicksons. Blanche and Mr Schlumberger sang after dinner. Edward and Blanche and Alice went in the caique to see the Mantillas. I went home to bed. Henry returned at 11.30 having had no dinner. I got him some food which he took in his dressing gown and we then got to bed. Thursday 11th September. Packed and arranged things and read to Blanche. Corti, Zichy and Oliphant called to bid us adieu. Sir C. and Lady Dickson came to luncheon. Dr. Millingen did my eyes again. Sat in Blanche and Edward's room and had a little talk and then got ready to start on the trip to Jerusalem. The Antelope came at 4.30 and we went on board. Blanche and Edward went down to Constantinople with us and we had tea on board. We waited to get on board and then came the moment of separation and Blanche and Edward had to get off on to the steam launch to return to Therapia. They will remain there tonight and start tomorrow for Varna. About 6 we started off in the Marmara. Dined at 8 and went to bed at 10 very sleepy. Perfect calm. Friday 12th September. Splendid weather. Wrote to Lady Salisbury and Mrs Burr and posted at Dardanelles about 11 o'clock where we stayed a few minutes and the consul came on board. Alice read aloud to me a great deal of Mrs Burton's Syria. We ate and drank a good deal all day and after dinner, I played a few valses. Saturday 13th September. Most lovely and calm weather, not a breath of wind and not a ripple. We passed innumerable islands. Alice read aloud to me a great deal. About 5 we passed by the island of Knidos on which was to be seen the remains of the great Greek city. We begged Henry to let us go on shore and so he gave orders to stop and lower a boat and we landed. It was a most curious and interesting place there were enormous ruins of walls, temples and theatres. We scrambled about and got from one side of the island to the other so as to see the old harbour on each side. There were a few Turks who inhabit came and old tombs and a few Greeks who had come in their boats from the neighbouring isles. An old Turkish hag was very civil and

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asked us news of Turkey was anxious to know whether Alice and I were men or women, not understanding our costume. There was a lovely sunset and we had to hasten back to the ship. It was too dark as we steamed away to see well the site of the tomb from where was taken by W. Newton the famous lion which now stands in the British Museum. About 1.30 we arrived at Rhodes and anchored but we were all gone to bed. Sunday 14th September. About 7 o'clock before any of us were dressed the Consular Agent (Mr Biliotti) and the Governor of Rhodes came on board to call on Henry. They did not stay long. After breakfast we went ashore and were received by the Governor and a guard of honor and several functionaries. Then we proceeded in solemn procession to the house of a certain Suleyman Bey, the Viceroy's agent. The Governor took us there as there was no Konak. We had the usual coffee, sweats and water, and sherbet and all the principal people came to be presented. There were Turks, Greeks, Jews and they all sat in a raw at a respectful distance while Henry sat on the sofa alone opposite them, smoking his chebougee. We sat on a side sofa as we thought it looked more imposing to let Elgi Bey be all by himself. Sir Alfred Sandison was busy running about whispering and interpreting. Before we left Suleyman Bey presented me with an old terra cotta Greek vase which he said had been found in the town. We then took leave of him and sallied forth to see the town. We went through the old gates and the fortresses and then to see the remains of the Palace of the old Masters of the Knights of St John. The Palace itself what remains of it now used as a prison for the convicts and from an upper terrace we could look down upon them. They were a wild looking lot, some had huge chains on their ankles which were tied up to their waists. Some had none. Some were Greeks and some Turks, Zeybeks. There was one Jew. There were 4 very wild looking creatures who had lately been taken as pirates, very desperate characters. They all make the most beautiful inlaid boxes and clay cigar cases for sale. From there we went down the famous street where were the houses of the Knights. It was most wonderfully picturesque. The carvings and designs on some of them were wonderfully curious and picturesque. At the end of this street is a splendid building, the old hospice. It is used as a barrack. There still remains the fine old kitchen and up on the 1 st floor an open corridor runs round from which opens a splendid refectory and dormitory with a fine gothic bay window a row of columns supporting the roof. The Turks have partitioned off half the room as it is too large for use. At one end is a large fire place. We sat in the colonel's room while to rest and take coffee and then went to see a mosque which was the English church of the knights. Then we went to a shop full of Rhodes plates and bought some Greek silver coins and then in through the

- 203 bazaars. At every turn we saw fine bits and remains. At one mosque we saw a fine Renaissance carved marble doorway. We saw the remains of the church of St Helena which had been blown up a short time ago by lightening striking some powder stored there. It appears 500 people were killed. It was 1.30 before we got back to Siileyman Bey's where we were given an excellent Turkish lunch. From there we went to the Consulate and Henry had another audience with the functionaries of the town. About 4.30 we went on board again and found the ship in a dreadful state from coaling. The governor came to take leave and gave us presents of grapes and figs and an old Roman amphora, inlaid boxes and clays then we took leave, Sir Alfred did a deal of kissing and salaaming and we set off for Jaffa. There was a little swell and wind but we got up a sail. Monday 15th September. A little more wind and we rolled a bit. We went on all day without seeing land. Alice did not go down to her meals I read to her some of D. Stanley's Syria and Palestine. It got calmer towards night. Tuesday 16°' September. Still fine weather but rather a swell. Sat on the bridge all the morning with Alice and read. After lunch I suddenly was taken with headache and had to go and lie down in the deck cabin and went to bed when the others went to dinner. It got quiet calm by the evening. We saw a good many flying fish. At 11 o'clock p.m. we anchored at Jaffa. Thursday 17th September. Got about 5.30 and made haste to get over things together to go on shore. At 6 the consul of Jerusalem Mr Moore, the Governor of Jaffa came on board and we went ashore in one of the boats of the country. There was a little swell but nothing alarming. We were received at the landing place by the Governor of the town and a guard of honor. H.E. took Henry, Alice and myself in his carriage to the house of a merchant which lived just out of the town and we found ourselves in the midst of the Eastern life. The Syrians in their white garments and turbans. The master of the house we went to received us most politely and spoke French very decently. He wore long baggy black trousers and a short jacket. He invited us to go up an out side stair to the 1st storey where was a large hall with four side rooms opening into it. After a little while the lady of the house came out of her room she wore a loose kind of white robe. Her hair hang down her back in 2 thick plaits and round her head she wore a brown muslin kerchief. She could speak nothing but Arabic. Presently her niece a fat girl in a shady brown satin appeared in the scene who wore her hair in the same fashion without the kerchief. She happily spoke French. At 9 we had some breakfast and then spent the morning talking and making a sketch out of the window. We were joined by a smart young lady in brilliant blue silk with touwering hair in the

- 204 height of fashion. She was V. Consul's daughter and spoke English and other languages. At about 11 we had a splendid breakfast and afterwards we began to prepare for our journey. The Governor who had left us soon after our arrival returned and the niece in the brown satin at once covered her face as she passed through the room where he was and told us that no women like to appear unveiled before the Turks. At last at about 3.30 we started off our journey to Jerusalem. Henry and the Governor in carriages, the servants on horseback. I got into a palanquin and Alice was going to do the same when our mules began to kick and plunge and Alice had to be put into a carriage. We had a pretty good road but my tahtarevan went so slowly that after a while I got into the carriage also. We had an escort of zaptiyes and they rode about all round us in the wildest manner. When we got to a village called Ramleh about 6 o'clock we found the Governor and all the authorities seated on chairs in a semi circle and we alighted and had coffee and stayed about 10 minutes when our carriage drove up to take us up again it came at such a pace that it knocked down a poor woman and she was actually under the horses' feet where she was saved but was stunned. All run to help her but she was found to be an unfortunate leper and the cavass returned to me saying. "No fa niente, e una cattiva donna ce ne molte" !!! and they all said she was shamming This was hard upon the poor thing but the fact was that on receiving 2 mecidiyes she got up and retired and we went on to Latroon where there was a kind of stone inn with dinner prepared and tents for us close by. We went at once to our tents and got to bed. But we did not sleep much on account of the dogs and horses all round us and the jackals who came very near the tents from time to time and set all the dogs howling. However at 4 the next morning on [blank] Friday I S " September. We were up and at 5 were again en route. I went most of the way in the tahtarevan as the roads were very bad. The Pasha of Jerusalem sent Henry out a mare to ride half way and so we all arrived in detachments at the last village before Jerusalem. There we found the Governor of Jerusalem Rauf Pasha, the chanceliers of all the consuls, the Greek and Armenian Priests etc. etc. We went into a little kind of cafe where sitting, the ground was strewn with orange and lemon leaves. We waited a little while for Henry to come up as he had been kept by the inhabitants of a village en route and offered coffee etc.. As he neared the inn where the authorities waited for him the cavasses went and lined the road and stamped their long silver headed pointed staves on the ground. After he had received all authorities they brought him a fine horse and he rode by the side of Rauf Pasha and was followed by the rest on horseback. A guard or escort riding in front and immediately after the carriage with me, Alice, Hill and after us the

- 205 others. So we went in solemn procession which looked very well as we wound up the hilly roads. As we got to the outskirts of the town we found all the road lined with people who had made quite a fête of our arrival and Henry had to bow right and left. Our hotel (Mediterranean Hotel) was just inside the gate and after depositing us there every one left us to rest. We had breakfast about 11. The country is burnt up and barren looking. Out side the gates on Jaffa road are a great many Jewish houses. They are flat roofed and very oriental looking. The houses are only 2 stories high and the rooms all waited owing to the absence of wood in the construction. The hotel was very comfortable and on the terrace outside my bedroom there is a very pretty view of the town. The church of the Holy Sepulcher, the Mount of Olives, Mosque of Omar and immediately under the hotel the Pool of Hezekiah a deep reservoir at this time quite dry. On arriving we breakfasted and then retired to our rooms to rest. I went to bed but was soon driven out by a family of bugs and I caught them by dozens both in my and Henry's bed. So at last I gave up the attempt to rest and got up and dressed. The master of the inn was in a great way on being informed of my troubles and promised to have thorough investigation and cleansing - so we sallied forth after lunch at which meal we enjoyed the company Mr and Mrs Moore. We went to the Church of Holy Sepulchre and at the door we were met by a procession of Greek church dignitaries, priests, bishops and archbishops carrying gigantic lighted tapers. At the door they sprinkled us with holy rose water out of silver bottles incensed with silver censers and then took us to see the holy places. We went in one by one into the Sepulchre but le coeur ne me disait rien and I could not get myself to believe it, my last spark of religious veneration and belief of the holy spots had gone out long before we had seen the whole round. It being quite impossible to bring oneself to believe that all the circumstances of the death of an Saviour were crammed into so small a space. When we had seen every thing, chapels and alters belonging to Greeks, Latins and Armenians, the Greeks invited us into their vestry. I had scraped up an acquaintance en route with a Spanish monk who stuck to me. Just as we were going into the Greek vestry a Latin procession came by and it was shocking to see how the rival Christians jostled each other. Henry wanted to stop and see the procession but the Greeks drew him on saying " that's nothing you had better come on with us". We had the usual 3 courses of refreshments served to us, sirop, coffee and liqueurs and I found my inevitable monk by my side! having pushed himself into the enemies' camp. We were conducted out of the church with the same ceremony as when we arrived. Henry thanked the priest and it was worth seeing my young Latin monk's face when Henry remarked to the Greek bishop that the Greeks hold much the largest part of

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the church which was true. W e went on to call on the Governor Rauf Pasha w h o had a guard of honour and a band to give us the military honors. His palace is enormously built and one goes to the state reception room by an outside staircase round 2 sides of a court yard. A f t e r paying our visit w e went to look at what is called Herod's Palace now used as a barrack, the staircase of which is now in R o m e and we returned to the hotel by what is called the V i a Dolorosa or road where our Savior is supposed to have borne his cross a narrow long steep street. The population was very civil to us as w e walked along getting up and bowing to us. W e formed rather an absurd procession headed by 2 Consular cavasses, big men in blue and gold embroidered costumes carrying huge silver sticks which w e called pokers. They were tipped with iron and at every step stamped them heavily on the ground to announce our arrival and make people clear out of the way. Henry said it reminded him of mules at a funeral. W e were quite tired by the time w e got home as the pavement of Jerusalem is rugged and uneven and w e were glad of dinner and to get early in bed. A l i c e was tired and went to bed before dinner. W e slept well notwithstanding the fear of bugs but the hotel keeper had really had our beds well cleaned. Friday 19th September. W e breakfasted at 8—bought keffiehs and rode out to the M t of Olives. It was very hot but with white umbrellas and our keffiehs put on under our hats w e did not feel the sun too much. W e rode to the Virgin's T o m b — t h e site of the Ascension the supposed site where the Pater Noster was pronounced by Christ and the minaret from where one gets a splendid v i e w of the country, the mountains of M o a b and the dead sea. It was a perilous feat getting to the top of the minaret as the whole thing was in such a state of disrepair that it was almost tottering and the parapet of the ledge round the top had nearly all fallen o f f — s o one had to crouch down f o r fear of getting giddy and tumbling over. W e

went to the so called garden

of

Gethsemane the most revolting of all the sights—it is a common place plot of ground palissaded round and divided into f l o w e r beds with a water tank in the centre—round the inside of the palissade in the garden is a walk and at intervals

suspended the stations most villianously

executed and

almost

caricatured. W e went into a field where there were some tombs under ground but only the gentlemen descended and said there was nothing to be seenHenry had to get home to receive the Consuls and here w e parted. A l i c e , I and Hill and M r Salami (the Consular Dragoman) going round by Siloam. W e passed curious rock cut tombs at the end of the Valley of Jehoshaphat- T h e latter is a most curious sight being a mass of grave stones. The village of Siloam was nothing remarkable and one cannot see much of the " p o o l . " A spring of fresh water was shown us as the source which filled the pool and

- 207 watered the little valley which was well cultivated. We saw other large reservoirs now quite empty. Got home soon after 12 o'clock and I met some of the consuls with their smart cavasses stamping in and out of the hotel and they swept by me with a majestic air. After the departure of the Consuls we went to the Wailing place of the Jews a thing they do every Friday. They put their heads against the stones of the outside of the mosque of Omar and cry aloud and beat their breasts. There were old men and young, women and children—they made a deafening noise. The old people seemed sincere and really cried and the children did it mechanically. The place where they assemble a narrow cul de sac street and we had to hustle to get in—and as we got near with our cavass and large party the wailing died down—but as soon as we were settled down in a corner it began with renewed ardour. There were many picturesque costumes especially the Polish Jews with their long kind of robes, their curls on each side of the face and their large fur caps. We did not stay long as it was close and smelly but we went on to the British Consulate where Mrs Moore had kindly got a lot of people with roses, olive wood things andc andc for us to see if we wished to buy any. We were there some time, had tea—and bargained over our purchases and then went h o m e - Henry went to pay a visit to the Armenian Patriarch at the Convent and as he came back after dark was brought home in procession with lighted tapers and cavasses stamping their silver headed sticks on the ground. We dined and went early to bedSaturday 20lh September. The first thing after breakfast we went off to see the Mosque of Omar the most holy a Musulman site after Mecca and which is built on the site of the Temple of the Jews. We were met by the chief mullah and all the dignitaries of the mosque— and taken round to see it first putting on slippers over our boots. The chief mullah was a kind intelligent old gentleman and very polite to us. Certainly the mosque is one of the most beautiful and striking edifices I ever saw. It is built round the bare rock, which is supposed to be the one Mahomet rode to heaven on— and which he bade return to its place. There are the most beautiful marble columns, and ornaments—some gilt—some plain—the windows are a kind of plaster arabesque with tiny bits of coloured glass lit i n - The outside of the building is lined with curious old coloured tiles and there are beautiful fountains and old cypresses and the simplicity of the design of the architecture is most impressive. We were looking about when the old mullah begged Henry to observe that there was not a proper chandelier and said that their old one had fallen down and got broken to pieces and he asked him to get the Sultan to send him another—also he said that he was waiting for some tiles to repair the outside wh were to come from Constantinople. Hemy promised to see

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about it. We went into another mosque in the same enclosure which had once been a Christian Church and then across the great platform to what is called Solomon's stables—a kind of reservoir of very fine arches under the platform. We went to see what is called the Beautiful Gate of the temple—a most remarkable and interesting piece of masonry. One could see the carved moulding of the interior of the archway and even the stones where the socket of the Gates had turned. We left this part of Jerusalem with the greatest regret as it is so interesting and we went [to] the Greek Convent where we took the usual refreshments and then went on to [the] English hospital and schools and then to the Armenian Convent where we were received by the Patriarch and had more refreshments and then we went along the roof of the convent to a photographic studio where one of the priests took Henry's photo and then a group of Henry, me, Mr Nicolson, Sir Alfred, Alice, M r Moore and Mr Salami and then we examined the convent and church and saw some of the valuable MSS with their splendid bindings set with precious stones and then returned to the hotel to lunch. Directly after lunch we drove in 2 carriages out to Bethlehem. The road was a very primitive one but had been repaired on purpose f o r us and there were even still people at work at it as we passed. T h e views were bleak and the hills bare and the only fertile place was a village where there was a Greek convent in which the Moores had rooms and were then living. W e did not stop but went o n - W e passed the T o m b of Rachel— an old tomb which might have been hers and we soon had a view of Bethlehem on the side of the hill; as we got near the place we found that all the population had turned out to meet us—and there were some most strikingly picturesque costumes and wonderfully handsome women. T h e men were in the streets—the women looked f r o m their windows or housetops. T h e men wore the turban and the women wear a most picturesque dress of dark blue with a veil over the head—and the dress is embroidered in front with red—they wore on their heads and hanging down to their chins strings of c o i n s - In fact the dress reminds one of the blue veiled and robed Madonna of the old Italian pictures and the type is so much the same that almost anyone of the women might have been the model who had sat to Titian, Raphael or any great master. The crowd followed us as we went along (we had a Turkish escort) and when we reached the square before the church of the nativity we found it full. At the gates of the church we were met by the high priests of all denominations and even the Latins had spurred up f o r the occasion. In the church itself we found a guard of Musulman soldiers w h o are constantly kept there to prevent any quarrels between the Christians. It was a very humiliating sight. The church was a fine old early Christian Roman with some remains of mosaics. The heads of all the sects came out to meet us and the Greeks took

- 209 us at once to the Holy Manger and birthplace and presented us with some shell carved representations of the event which lay ready blessed on the spot for us. It was in a kind of cave and we were told that it was the scene of many of the worst fights between the priests. The Latin monks pointed out with great unction that the hangings were of a kind of wood tapestry hung up by the French. It appears the stuff hangings had invariably been burned in the scuffles as to who had the right of decorating the cave. In there we went to some Latin chapels and the monk who led us and showed it all invited Henry to turn into the parlour close by and rest a moment. All unsuspicious Henry was on the point of doing this when M r Moore rushed up and said that the Greeks were to have the honor of the first visit and that knowing this, the monk had laid a trap for Henry and even on the very threshhold Henry had to turn back and went and partook of coffee—syrup and liqueur with the Greeks. From thence we went to the Latins and after the same refreshments we went to the Armenians—very nearly ill f r o m all the sweet stuffs we had been obliged to swallow. W e then left the church and returned to the crowded square and streets and drove off amongst the salutes of the population—some pouring coffee under our feet—some offering their work f o r sale and some frantically thrusting petitions into the carriage; on our way back to Jerusalem we stopped at the Greek convent of [blank] where the bell was jangling to and f r o to greet us and we climbed to the top of the edifice to pay Mrs Moore a visit as she and her family are spending the hot months there during the superior's absence. They gave us tea and then we set off taking Mrs and Miss Moore with us to the town and we got home just about sunset. W e had to hurry our dressing and then set off on horse and donkey back to dine with the Governor. W e had men with lanterns and cavasses to accompany us and we got safely through the dark ill-paved and deserted streets. W e were received with music, fireworks and illuminations. W e were a small party only the Moores, ourselves and the Pasha's dragoman. The dinner was dull and bad. W e found the soup already put for us when we went in to dinner and our plates overflowing. A s we were forced to leave half of it the inexperienced waiters stood waiting not venturing to remove the plates. When the Pasha had to take m e in to dinner he was evidently at a loss how to do it and made a dash at my arm instead of offering me his—so I clutched at his arm and carried him off in triumph. After dinner the young people went off to help fire off the rockets on the roof while the gentlemen smoked their nargilehs. About 12 we went back to the hotel in the same procession as we came in glad to get to bed. Sunday 21 st September. We went to the service in the little English church and the service was conducted by Revd M r Gobat son of the late

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Bishop (just dead). There were few people and the sermon was not very notable. After service we went to the Boys' school and then we returned to the hotel and I worked at the sketch I was making from the terrace of the hotel. We lunched at 2 and the Moores and Mr Salami with us and then we took our departure. As we went off in solemn procession - Henry on horseback accompanied by cavasses, priests and rabbis, officials and troops and the rest of us following in carriages - the population had turned out, Jewish school children sang hymns on the road side. The Governor and troops met us at a village about 1/2 hour from the gates and accompanied us a little way and then took leave of us and Henry got into our carriage and we went on quickly. We got to Latroon by about 8 very tired and terribly shaken over the bad road. We found Mr Howard the tourists' "Cook" of the East there to receive us. A splendid dinner prepared for us and Henry and I slept in the house, Alice and Hill in the tents. The sandflies prevented us getting much rest. Monday 22nd September. We were up at 3 a.m. and en route very soon after paid Mr Howard's exorbitant bill and were once more jolting towards Jaffa. It was fine and the sunrise very pretty but I was tired with the dreadful road and uneasy carriage and glad to get to the end of the journey. We reached Jaffa by 8 and by 9 we had started off for Caipha. I went straight to bed being quite knocked up. I got up about 11 with a bad headache and when we reached Carmel I could not land with the others. I tried to sketch but had to give it up. The others were received with the usual honors by the authorities and went to the Convent on the top of the Hill and also visited the German colony of Hoffmannites established there. I was so ill that I could only lie in my cane chair and dose. Tuesday 23 ri September. We slackened pace so as not to arrive at Beyrouth till 10 after our breakfast. A veiy picturesque place seen from the sea with the mountains of Lebanon for back ground. Unfortunately the sea sand is gaining on one side and spoiling the country. The Governor and Consul came on board and Midhat Pasha sent his political secretary Vasif Efendi to meet us. At the landing place there were troops drawn up and people in every window, there being no place on the narrow quay. We had to walk a little way and then were put into carriages driven to a fine house some way off where we were entertained at the expense of the town. The houses here are built as at Jaffa with large central halls having rooms on each side. I was glad to lie down and rest for a couple of hours. Henry held reception of Judges, authorities,etc. without intermission till past 12 when we had luncheon in the long hall. The master of the house being present, the Governor and so I then received the Lady of the house and the English ladies,

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amongst whom was a pretty Mrs Philips, wife of the judge at Cyprus for whose place they started after leaving me. In the afternoon when Henry had finished his reception and it had got cool we were taken for a drive. At lunch I got a telegram from Midhat Pasha bidding me welcome. Riistem Pasha came to see us. We had a great consultation as to how we were to tell Riistem that unless he sent away a certain General and Mrs Rickards who were staying with him we would not go to stay with him. General R. had been a Mohammadan in Egypt 1 , where he kept an extensive harem - had become Christian again and ended by marrying his own niece — for which reason we declined to receive her. We drove all round the town. There are some lovely houses, each in its own garden. Japanese roses are growing in there like weeds. We also saw palms and bananas in quantities. We dined in a large room on the basement of the house we were in. Riistem Pasha took us to dinner. The Municipality entertained us. A band played during dinner and a crowd of people looked in at the dinner. The food was bad and Riistem very cross at the Rickards affair. There were some very polite speeches made. The Poet Khalil Hamir Efendi made some verses in Arabic in my honour. In the evening the lady again made her appearance in a black silk embroidered with large gold flowers. She had only be confined 12 days and gave me all details. She was very much painted and got up and spoke very bad French but was a good-natured kind of woman and covered with rings and jewellery. We went to bed early having to start tomorrow early for Damascus. Wednesday 24a September. We got up at 4 and at 5 were en route. Alice had been unwell all night. Capt. Wingfield had been taken with gout and we left him behind. Alice, Henry and I started in a light kind of basket carriage covered with a linen awning. Poor Alice was very ill all the day. The servants and the rest who went with us went in the diligence. The road and diligence belong to a French Colonel; we went a great pace and changed horses about every hour. We went through a lovely country although burnt up with the sun. We went over the Lebanon at a great pace and arrived in the plain between it and the Ante Lebanon at a place called Staura at about 12. There we found the authorities of Damascus waiting for us and tents pitched in a pretty spot in a field and an excellent breakfast was served which we had to eat in a nest of wasps. I think I never saw so many. As we went over the Ante Lebanon the heat diminished and Alice began to get better. Just before sunset we got down to the plain where Damascus is—and the sudden change from burning heat to a watered valley was very remarkable. We stopped at the entrance of the town at a garden belonging to Abdel Kadr of Algeria where we were received by Midhat Pasha and Abdel Kadr etc. They took us 1

Where he was known as Abdullah Pasha el-Ingilizi.

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in the garden and gave us refreshments and after a f e w compliments w e went on. Midhat Pasha insisted on taking me in his open phaeton. Henry came in a carriage next and w e made a long procession with troops and gendarmes. There was a dense crowd waiting f o r us and the scene was like an Arabian nights tale—the varied costumes, the Oriental architecture, running water, and trees and over it the mists of evening. W e got in just at sunset. T o our surprise w e found the troops moving o f f as w e approached and w e found out that the military Governor Ahmed Hyiih Pasha in order to spite Midhat had ordered the troops to retire at sunset and as w e arrived t w o minutes after they were disappearing as w e arrived. W e were taken to a splendid big house, belonging to one Said Pasha, the Pasha w h o every year has the charge of the pilgrimage to Mecca. H e was a big stout kind looking old man—the approach to his house was up a lane and it looked mean outside—inside it was very fine. Midhat took me upstairs and waited till w e all arrived when he left us to rest. W e dined and went early to bed. W e had very pretty rooms in the harem which looked onto a court yard paved with marble—having orange and lemon trees, fountains of waters and cushioned recesses to rest in. Thursday 25th September. Vasif Efendi came to call and breakfasted with us and then w e had a quantity of things brought from the Bazaars to be sold and each man laid his wares out on the f l o o r round the room and then squatted down patiently beside them. W e went out on mule back round the bazaars which were wonderfully picturesque. The metal

shops and the

saddler's shops were amongst the most brilliant. There were no end of picturesque costumes. Henry received a great many visits and paid his to Midhat. In the afternoon w e drove through the town with Midhat to see it and he stayed and dined with us and afterwards took us to the Arabic theatre—a very primitive place more like a barn than anything else. W e sat in the front row and the gentlemen had their nargilehs and c o f f e e and sherbets. T h e orchestra consisted of 3 people—one playing an instrument like a zither, another w h o played a kind of guitar and another w h o sang and played a tambourine. They sat in a little niche on one side of the room where they could hardly see the stage. The play was very solemn and dull. It was declaimed in verse in a monotonous way like the old Greek plays and had its chorus etc. The women were represented by young b o y s — n o Mohammaden woman being permitted to appear. The story was a Dervish in search f o r his son goes to the Court where in a mean capacity he finds him and he eventually marries the Sultan's daughter. W e returned home abt 11.30 Friday 26lh September. Vasif Efendi made his appearance soon after breakfast. I had to receive some Christian ladies and Jewesses—they all came veiled that is with a large white kind of sheet thrown over their heads and

- 213 held across the mouth so as only to leave the eyes visible. The Stambouli ladies came to beg Henry to get their father's claim paid. It appears he lent the Porte £12000 and now claims £40000—but Henry succeeded in persuading him to accept £25000. Alice and I went off with Vasif Efendi to Midhat Pasha's house to lunch there. Midhat received us and took us into a small kiosque where we were received by his wife—a tall big woman with a very intelligent face about 60—dressed in white muslin—and very dignified. Breakfast was soon announced and taking me by the hand she led me through the garden to another kiosque where we went upstairs and were presented to his 2nd wife a very pretty Circassian—dressed also in white muslin with olive complexion and large almond shaped eyes—she was dark—and some European ladies. When we went in to breakfast in a room on the ground floor I sat at the head of the table with the chief wife at my side and a European Doctor's wife on the other- Midhat sat opposite with Alice on his right and his 2nd wife on his left. The whole time a very handsome Jewess and her daughter sang Arabic music to which they were accompanied by a shabby blind girl on a kind of guitar. Both the women were dressed up and painted thickly. The girl was said to be 16 but was fat and pudgy and looked 30. They said the mother had been a beauty in her day and one of the Governors of Damascus had lost his Pashalic for her sake. They were dressed in velvet and jewelry and had their hair plaited and pomaded. The mother in Jewish fashion wore a wig. The breakfast was good and half à la Turca half à la Franca. We went upstairs again and there the Jewesses sang and played and at last the girl was encouraged to dance which she did most wonderfully gracefully considering her size and ungainly figure. She moved in a stately way singing and going through the different movements which explained her words and she had a peculiar way of shaking her shoulders from the waist upwards. About 3 we got away having exhausted the patience of Vasif and carried with us 2 lovely carpets and some handsome keffiehs and a piece of china crêpe as presents. We stopped to visit the military hospital which we found very well kept and Dr Temple Bey was there to take us round with the Turkish medical officers. We distributed cigarettes to the patients, took coffee with the Doctors and received huge bouquets and went home to rest and then dressed and Henry and I went off to the Public gardens in an open carriage where we were received by all the municipality. It was still daylight and there were crowds to see us pass and a good many people in the gardens tickets having been distributed. We waited in the Club kiosque and walked in the gardens and all the people rose as we passed and I got quite clever at doing the "temenna". At dusk we went down to partake of the banquet given in our honor. I on Midhat's a r m - It was the 1st specimen of a public dinner ever

- 214 seen at Damascus. I had Midhat Pasha on my right. The dinner was long and not good. We were about 40 at table. Henry proposed the Sultan's health in a speech in French. Midhat returned by the Queen's and then there were speeches in Arabic and all were translated right off in the cleverest way by the Dragoman. Midhat proposed my health with many pretty compliments which being in Turkish I took second hand and then we cut off some of the interminable courses and went up stairs to see the fireworks—there was such a tremendous crush at the gates of the gardens that Midhat had to order them to be thrown open. The fireworks were very pretty and caused great pleasure being a novelty in the town. After the fireworks we went to an open air Turkish theatre—the Company being Armenians—but the best actor was a Turk. They played "The two Sergeants" translated into Turkish and at the melodramatic scenes which were indifferently acted that I was near laughing I was dismayed to find all the Turks, including Midhat, in tears. Afterwards there was a Palais Royal farce and very well done but we were too tired to see it out. Saturday 27th September. We went out in the morning to the Bazaars to try and buy silk and then went to the Great Mosque which was originally the Church of St John. The stones are quite bright and polished even in the court yard by the numbers of people who have walked bare footed or in stockings. We saw the tomb of Suleyman the magnificent. We went to the silversmith's Bazaar, and to the home of the German consul where we went on the roof to see the remains of a Greek Temple which had been built into a neighbouring house. It was excessively hot. We went into the house which was a charming one and we saw a lovely cat there with which I made friends—and Vasif immediately said he would get me one to take home. We returned home to lunch and had a visit from Midhat who sat talking a long time with Henry. Then Henry and I drove out in Midhat's carriage to go and call on Abdel Kadr at his house in the town. He and his two sons received us—and Alice and I were taken to the Harem. The women were very ordinary looking and were so silent that we did not remain. They have a lovely house with beautiful courts with fountains and oranges. Abdel Kadr is a fine old man and looks wonderfully young. He appeared to be very suffering and was very emaciated. His son spoke French very well. We went to visit Mr Jago's 1 house and then went home. Midhat Pasha and Vasif dined with us and left us early as we had to go off tomorrow morning at 5 A.M. Sunday 28th September. We made an early start getting up about 3 and leaving before daylight. When we got to the place from whence the diligence started we found Ahmed Eyiib Pasha and the troops all drawn up to do us 1 Consul T.J. Jago.

- 215 honour and he was profuse in polite speeches and offers to have us escorted etc. etc. which proved that he had had a tremendous blowing up from the Sultan for his insulting behaviour on our arrival. We parted with our good old host Said Pasha the Pasha of Mecca. Vasif accompanied us. We had it cold on starting but the sun rise was lovely and it got hot enough as we got on. On nearing Staura we met a lot of Bedouin Arabs—wild looking people who had come out to meet us. They rode round the carriage performing the fantasia throwing the tint—and playing all kinds of antics. They accompanied us to the inn at Staura where we found an excellent breakfast. The costumes of the Arabs were most picturesque. They wore the Keffieh, some wore coats of chain armour, with cold cloaks or rings over them, bare legs—and some were very good looking with bright eyes and white regular teeth and curly locks coal black. We sent the most of our luggage and servants including Jerry on to Aley in the Lebanon to wait for us and with a cavass, Hill and Giovanni we branched off to Baalbek. We had a very good road to start off with. We were accompanied by Vasif and the engineer of the road a very nice French man. Every effort had been made to finish the carriage road to Baalbek for us and we started in a carriage. At every village the population came out and at one large one the name of which I forget they pressed round the carriage when we stopped and the women shouted their shrill cry of Lallilah! (the origin of the "Hallelujah") and some pretty girls actually came up into the carriage. After a couple of hours the road got so bad and we were so shaken that we preferred riding and so we left Hill in the carriage and I mounted a delightful roan pony of Midhat's which jogged along at a great pace without fatiguing me. The others rode. We got to Baalbek just before sunset. We were accompanied a part of the way by the Bedouins and at every village the men came out on horse back and performed the Fantasia. From Baalbek they also came out to meet us, and our arrival and the time of day was a very picturesque sight. We passed a small temple by the road side and then the great quarries from which the great temples were built and where there remains a huge monolith which has never been made use of after it had been prepared. We went to a little inn where we were very comfortable and everything had been prepared beforehand. Sir Alfred and Mr Nicolson met us (having ridden on before us) with long faces. It appears that being hot and thirsty they had asked for some effervescing drink on their arrival and after having had it discovered that they had been given seidlitz powders! While waiting for the luggage and dinner Alice and I were resting in my room when we looked up and saw a great light in Alice's room and became aware that it was on fire. We rushed in and found the muslin curtain of the window on fire. Alice dragged it down and I threw water and in a minute it was out, but had we left the room and gone down the

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house must have burnt. Hill arrived a couple of hours later and the carriage was the first that had been seen at Baalbek. We were all tired and went early to bed. Monday 29th September. We breakfasted early and went into the nice house near the hotel belonging to a family called Moultran when some of our party had been lodged. I think they are Armenians. The oldest girl was very nice looking and spoke beautiful French and had been educated by the "Soeurs". We had coffee and nargilehs and then went on foot to the great ruins of the temple of Baal which are still most magnificent. It is surrounded by an Arab fortress and one only gets in by a long underground kind of passage. The remains of the Temples are so vast that at first one can hardly take it in. Successive earthquakes have shaken down some of the massive pillars but many lean still against the building as though they were reeds. It was very hot and I got into the shade of the tent and made a panel sketch of some of the ruins. Alice was anxious to try riding on a camel as one was brought but she very soon wished to come off it as the movement makes one sea sick. At 12 o'clock we got on our ponies and rode to a spot called Ras el ein or the springs. There we found a beautiful tent pitched by the water and we had luncheon. Afterwards I sketched, others slept and so the time passed till towards evening when we returned to the temples and walked about outside the fortress walls and the ruins. We dined in the tents near the temples and when it got dark beacons were lighted in all direction and the moon rose. It was as bright that it seemed almost like day. I went into the large temple and it was most curious to see one side of it lighted up with the white rays of the moon and the other in deepest gloom. It made one think of many things. The temple is so perfect all but its roof, one could almost imagine one would see a procession of priests come sweeping from some corner carrying the sacred fire. When it was time to go home we went in a kind of procession men carried the lighted beacons in front of us and it had a very weird look and so we went back to the hotel. Tuesday 30"1 September. We had to get up at 4 and set off in our ride back to Staura. It was before sunrise and it was chilly and one was glad of shawls but as soon as the sun was high one could no longer bear them and was glad of umbrellas. We rode to the village of Malaka and there we found a carriage into which we were glad to get to take us to Staura. There we rested and had lunch. Afterwards we set out in the diligence carriage for Aley where the road turns off to Aley we were met by a quantity of English, Europeans and Druses and entered the village in style. When we got to the hotel we found Mr and Mrs Eldridge 1 and their 3 daughters waiting for us and very 1 G J. Eldridge consul general at Beirut.

- 217 comfortable rooms prepared. We had some tea and rested. Alice and I had baths and clean garments. There were triumphal arches raised in our honor and huge tents pitched for the evening's entertainment. We dined at the Eldridge mansion next to the hotel and were bored by a long and rather bad dinner in a small hall. Mr Eldridge prosed to me all the time how he knew every thing having "been 16 years in the country". After the wearisome dinner was disposed of we were led out into the big tents where all the fashionable people were entertained but there was a great tendency for the sexes to keep separate which was rather a dull arrangement. Fireworks were let off and bonfires lighted and Mr Eldridge had done all he could to receive us well. At 10 we could keep awake no longer and managed to get into bed. Wednesday 1st October. We breakfasted at 8 and took leave of Mr Eldridge and set out in our carriage for Beit ed-din to visit Riistem Pasha. He accompanied us. We only went a little way in the carriage and when we had to leave the road we found mules and horses provided us and we rode into the Lebanon. We each had 2 soldiers to lead our mules and hold us on in case of need. We went into a lovely country and found tents pitched on a little plateau in a lovely valley and about midday we stopped and breakfasted and rested. After about an hour's rest we resumed our journey. At every village we came to the Druses came out to meet us and drawn up by the side of the road and cheered us as we passed and waved branches and threw them under our horses' feet and then ran before us dancing and singing their war cries and when we entered the village the women shouted their Hillah Illah from the housetops and sprinkled down on us rose water. The men always accompanied us a good way out of the village so that we had almost a perpetual procession from one village to the other. It was most interesting and curious but I was glad to get to the journey's end being at last very tired by the foot's pace and going up and down hill. The view of Beit ed din was most picturesque. One sees it standing up on the top of a rock and one can hardly see from where one can reach it. We rode into the court yard at 5.30 and were received by music and guards and all honours. The Governor Riistem Pasha led us to our appartments where I found a bath prepared and every comfort. The Palace is built in the Arabic fashion and with European comforts and is a charming combination of both styles. Before dinner we went out on the balcony to see the illuminations in our honor which was a beautiful sight. The outlines of the Palace were done with lamps as were those of the houses all around. We dined at 7.30 and met there Morel Bey a Frenchman in high office under Riistem. We were glad to go early to bed being tired with excitement and riding.

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Thursday 2nd October. For the first time for some days we did not need to hurry up in the morning but breakfasted at 7. The Pasha took us over the Palace and grounds and showed us a beautiful old Turkish bath which is falling into decay. We went over the military offices—and then took our places in the balcony overlooking the meydan to witness the cirid or throwing of the spear on horseback. It was very pretty to see and it is wonderful how clever they some of them are. One man in his excitement kept throwing his cirid up at us and twice it came nearly into our faces and he had to be stopped. There was also a military exercise of the Lebanon troops for our edification and an excellent military band played the while. At about 12 o'clock we started on horse back to ride over the mountains and went first to a village called Backli to the house of a Druse chief called Meer Mustafa Rostan where we were received with great honor—the house decorated and the village turned out. The Druse women are shut up like Musulmans and go out with a veil with only one eye uncovered which has a curious effect. After stopping a little while at Meer Mustafa's and Henry having made to him speeches etc. we remounted and set off for Mouktara another village where we were going to visit another Druse family called Jumblat. Rüstern Pasha did not like the family but as they were under English protection Henry resolved to go there and in spite of all obstacles which Rüstern freely put in the way of it we got there at last. The Castle is most beautifully situated and the family of Jumblat a most influential one. We were received by the old mother, the 2 sons with their retainers had met us on horseback on the road. We went up a curious outer staircase and found ourselves in a lovely court yard—with rooms opening into it. It was all decorated with flowers and smartened up and the good people were most hospitable. We were to have lunched with them at 1. Unfortunately it was past 3 when we got there. Rüstern Pasha insisted on taking me to lunch and ignored the family and in fact said the rudest things possible to them. The banquetting hall was dilapidated but there was an air of the feudal caste about the whole thing. After lunch Henry proposed the health of our hosts—they answered shortly their English not being very strong. Then Rüstern Pasha made a very unnecessary unkind speech and we were glad to finish the meal. While the gentlemen took their nargilehs we were taken by young Mr Dickson into the ladies' appartment and saw the young men's wives and children and then they took Henry in which infuriated Rüstern who was not taken in. The old lady gave Alice and me a bangle apiece and she begged me not to let Henry encourage her younger son to offer himself as a candidate for the Governorship of some small town. This she and the elder soon did mysteriously—the son interpreted as the old lady could not speak English.

- 219 About 4.30 we set out to ride home and were accompanied some distance by the Jumblats. We got to Beit ed din about 7 when it was just dark. As we turned off the mountain path onto the road we all uttered words of surprise at the fairy scene before us. The whole palace drawn in lines of fire and fireworks going up in all directions. It was a most striking scene. We were rather tired and glad to get in and get dinner and rest. We sat on the terrace out side the drawing room to see the fireworks. Friday 3rd October. We had to breakfast at 7.30 in order to take off to return to Aley and we started in the usual procession with troops and all of us riding including Hill. Riistem Pasha accompanied us as far as a village called Deir al Kanir, he said he would have liked to accompany us back to Aley but that it was contrary to the etiquette and that when the Emperor of Austria had paid the Governor of Lebanon a visit he had not accompanied H.M. further and therefore could no go further with us. We stopped at the same place to rest and have breakfast where the tents were pitched on our way to Beit ed Din and we found the carriages waiting when we got to the high road to Aley. We lunched with the Eldridges and picked up our friend and guide Vasif Efendi who did for the honors for us for Midhat Pasha After lunch we took leave of the Eldridges and drove off to Beirut. When we arrived at the Lebanon frontier we found all the authorities of Beirut had come out to meet us and they had picked a tent under the shadow of a pine wood and we had to go to it and rest and have lemonades and coffee. Midhat Pasha's two children, a boy and a girl of 6 and 7, with their English governess Mrs Smith were there Midhat having ordered that they should come out of the town to meet us. After resting a while and taking coffee and we resumed the march to Beyrouth and went to the Exchange where all the members of the Bourse received Henry and took him over the new building. We ladies were also admitted and given ices and we then went on board the Antelope in the usual solemn state with guards of honor and the authorities to see us off. We found to our relief that good old Mrs Eldridge who had asked to accompany us to Cyprus was not coming but Vasif Efendi asked to be allowed to go so we took him. Before dark we sailed for Cyprus. Thursday 4"' October. In the morning we found ourselves at Larnaca and in the midst of the fleet and very soon Admiral Hornby came to call on the Ambassador. Shortly after the Ambassador returned the call and there we landed. We were received by the Commissioners, Cobham and a British guard and went to Captain Cobham's house. Then we took a walk to see the town which is really a kind of village and saw some of the town's churches and the barracks and returned to Captain Cobham's quarters to lunch. I saw there a prinkah (?) in use for the first time in my life. It was a pretty hot

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weather. Alice and 1 returned on board the Antelope and rested while Henry went to see some more officials. We dined with the Admiral on board the Alexandra in the evening and met all the Commanders of the different ships. While the band played in the evening and we sat on deck Vasif and Mr [blank] made Alice dance and they got me down and I took a turn of the waltz which is a thing I had not done since I married then the Admiral and I danced in a quadrille and then we had to make some of the captains tie handkerchief round their arms and do the part of ladies and so spent a merry evening. We took leave of the Admiral and returned on board leaving Vasif Efendi with him and the same night we set off for Adalia. Sunday 5 th October. I [was| completely knocked up after all the excitement and bustle of the last days and had a bad headache and could do nothing but lie in my long chair on deck but we had nothing to do being the whole day at sea. It was very hot and pleasant and smooth and towards evening I got better. Monday 6 th October. We arrived at Adalia about 9 in the morning and to our surprise no one came on board from shore and after waiting some time we decided upon landing there. There was great chaff about the place being such a poor one. Sir Alfred was tormented at having once being Vice Consul there. He gave a sorry account of it saying the water was so bad it was supposed to swell up those who drank of it and that it was frequented by mad dogs! When we got on shore we were met by different authorities all rushing down buckling on their swords putting on their belts. It appears that the telegram announcing us had never reached them. However the Governor and our Consul received us breathless from their haste and we walked up to the Governor's house. The authorities were presented in due form and coffee was served. After that we expressed a wish to see the town which is most picturesque and still has its all medieval wall standing. We mounted there and walked a good way round the battlements. As I was not feeling very well I got Mr Nicolson to take me back on board before the others came and left Henry to take leave of the authorities. At about 11.30 we sailed for Bodrum. It was so very hot that Alice and I got permission from Capt. Wingfield to sleep on the deck saloon which was much cooler than below. We found out in that way that our Captain was fond of brandy as there was a large tumbler of raw spirit prepared for him! I did not know before that he had that vice. Tuesday 7th October. We went so slowly that we had to give up stopping at Bodrum (Halicarnassus) and made for Samos being at sea all day. It was very hot and perfect calm. I worked while Alice read aloud and we gossiped and ate to while away the time.

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Wednesday 8111 October. We arrived at Samos in the morning and landed after the usual visits being received by troops guard of honor and after the usual visits, we walked to the Governor's konak. The Prince of Samos Adossides Pasha and his wife and daughters received us and were very polite giving us coffee, sweets etc. They all spoke French. From there we went to the Consulate to visit the Consul and his family and Henry received deputations from the Senate and members of the island. Most of them were in the Greek costume of the Islands, wide cloth skirts, gaiters, long red fezes, They made magnificent speeches with congratulations etc. and Henry answered them in an appropriate manner and then we returned on board the Antelope and lunched. In the afternoon Mme Adossides and her daughters came and returned my call and brought some friends with her. In the evening we dined at the Governor's and had rather a heavy evening though they were all very kind and amiable. As soon as we returned on board we started for Scio. Thursday 9lh October. We reached Scio at 8 a.m. and found the weather changed. It began to blow and to rain and it was no longer very hot. There were the usual official visits. The Governor was our old friend Sadik Pasha. He was delighted to see us and we landed with him and went to his villa outside the town. He took me and Alice up to the harem and introduced us to his wife and said we were to stay that night with them and Mme Sadik was very nice and kind although she could not communicate very well with us. She is of a good family of Smyrna and very liberal minded and enlightened. We spent the morning with the Pasha and as it rained and we could not go out I offered to play backgammon with him and we had several games together. Then we breakfasted with him at 12 and afterwards we made a little promenade but could not see much for the bad weather. Alice and I dined in the harem and had an excellent dinner with exactly the same menu as the gentlemen had in the selamlik. Jerry was allowed into the harem. Henry was also put to sleep in the harem which was a wonderful thing. We had two rooms with large French beds in them and I amused myself by examining a beautiful packet of night things which were prepared for us and laid on the bed. The whole was in a cover of silk beautifully embroidered and contained a silk jacket lined with fur, a camisole etc. The whole bed with lace on sheets etc. was very smart but unfortunately before morning I was tormented by a bug! A great many ladies Christian and Muslim dined in the harem with us and it was very amusing to witness their dismay when the master of the house came up to the harem. Some fled, some hid under chairs and we chaffed them and offered them our fans to hide behind. The most particular of them was a very ugly ill dressed woman who said her husband was dreadfully jealous and

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would not have her show herself. About 9 o'clock the Pasha sent word to the Moslem ladies to disappear and then the gentlemen came upstairs and spent the rest of the evening with us. Then they all went down except Henry and Sadik Pasha. Hill and Alice had beds made up for them on the floor and Hill's wrath was very much raised by one of the slaves offering to make up a bed on the floor at the foot of Hill's bed for Jerry. He was finally sent down to the selamlik for the night. Friday 10tb October. We had to get up at 6 a.m. so as to start for Smyrna. Henry, Alice and I had breakfast in the harem and then rode down on mules to the pier. Mme Sadik was most kind and even came to say goodbye to Henry saying that as her husband regarded him as a brother she did not mind seeing him unveiled. She is a very distinguished woman with perfect manners and a very nice countenance. We steamed off at 8 o'clock and had a very fine passage to Smyrna which we reached about 4 o'clock. There was some delay on our arrival as the Governor 1 did not wish to come on board to pay the first visit to Henry. It was finally settled that Henry should land and go to the Consulate to receive the Pasha. We landed and were received by a guard of honor and went to the Consulate. Henry's old friend Mr Dennis 2 is the new consul. His wife was very nice. The governor came after a time and then Henry returned his visit. We ladies returned on board and then dressed and went to dine at the Consulate and then met the Pasha and his secretary returned on board at 11.30. Saturday l l l h October. We breakfasted at 8 and went on shore and got into the tramway which took us to the railway station. We were a large party, some of our officials and the Dennis. We had a special train and were accompanied by the Chaplain Revd [blank] who is a great antiquarian and he explained the country as we went by. When we got to Ephesus we found a quantity of ponies awaiting us and we each got mounted on one and so went off to see the ruins. It was a most curious and interesting day and it was hard to realize that a so great a city stood where there were only a few ruins under the level of the ground. But as we went on we found grand masses of ruins — especially the great theatre in which the multitude had called out for the space of 2 hours "Great is Diana of the Ephesians". Of the great temple of Diana very little is certain; some people suppose it to have been not far from the station. The place is at present most unhealthy - the inhabitants daily dwindle from fever. It was rather hot riding. The ground was rough and we were tired and glad when we got back to the station where Mrs Dennis had unpacked her wares and spread us out a luncheon. Jerry was with us and had a poney to ride 1

Ahmed Hamdi Pasha, former grand vizier.

2

G. Dennis, the Etruscan scholar.

- 223 but he got so excited that he had once or twice to be dismounted and made to walk. Hill was with us and also rode and was much interested. After luncheon we were much interested at seeing a grandly got up brigand, one of the country people who had turned King's evidence having got tired of the life and is now employed by the Governor to catch his fellows. He was a very fine man and literally bristled with arms, pistols, knives dagger, cartridges and Jerry's astonishment and delight was very amusing to witness. The man was, in truth, quite a picture. We returned to Smyrna by special and taking leave of the Dennis' etc. embarked. At 6 we steamed for Constantinople. Sunday 12"1 October. We got to the Dardanelles at one o'clock and had the usual complimentary visit from the governor and then went on. Had a splendid passage and perfect calm but found it much colder. Monday 13th October. We arrived at Therapia after breakfast and were glad to disembark and got a good fire to warm ourselves. Made acquaintance with a new secretary Mr Stevens. Henry went off in the afternoon to see Safvet Pasha. I sat to work to write letters for tomorrow's messenger. Tuesday 14th October. I copied letters for Henry to send by messenger. Still very cold. Mr Ashburnham, Mr Stevens, Mr Smijth dined with us. Wednesday 15"1 October. Hobart Pasha and his wife and May Boyd came up to see us. Alice and I drove to Biiyukdere. Had a visit from the Mantillas. Henry went to see the Sultan in the afternoon. Capt. Sale, Capt. Swaine and Mr Oliphant dined with us. Thurday 16th October. Sir Henry and Miss Thompson 1 came up from town to call on us and we begged them to come to stay with us and they promise to do so next week. Dr. Dickson and the Hansons also called. We had news of the death of Mr W. Lennon Hunt, Clarita's husband. He died of fever, Consul at Loanda. Henry and Alice took a ride. I went fishing at sunset but caught nothing. Sir Alfred, Mr Malet and Mr Nicolson dined. Friday 17th October. Alice read to me before breakfast. Wrote letters. Had a lot of visits. Mrs Washington, Sir Richard Wood, Serkis Efendi, Halim Pasha, Lady Thomas, Whitakers and Hobarts. Saturday 18th October. No entry. Sunday 19th October. Ill all day with a bad headache. Got up in afternoon. The Misses Monk 2 , Oliphant, Malet, Smijth, Ashburnham, Nicolson, Bland, Stevens, Sandison all dined. Last night we had a great diplomatic dinner with Fouraier, Corti, M. and Mile Condouriotis, Sir P. Braile 3 , Malet and Nicolson. 1

Sir Henry Thompson, the well-known surgeon Unable to identify. Unable to identify.

- 224 Monday 20th October. Hobart Pasha and his wife came up and dined and slept. Captain Wingfield also dined. Tuesday 21st October. I went down to town to see Nazli Hamm and found her in a small house on the square of the Mosque. Sir Henry and Miss Thompson came to stay with us. Wednesday 22nd October. Had the steam launch and took the Thompson in the morning to Kavak to make a sketch. We all three began one of the fountain there. Sir Alfred and Mr Smijth dined with us. Thursday 23rd October. Went to Kavak in the steamlaunch in the morning to paint. In afternoon faute de mieux we began Jerry's portrait. Friday 24th October. Had a headache and did not got up till the evening when I was able to dine down. Capt. and Mrs Pusey, Colonel Gordon and Mr Nicolson dined with us. Saturday 25th October. I went with the Thompsons to Kavak to paint. Henry and Alice and I dined with the Sultan. Sunday 26th October. Church in the morning. In the afternoon we went with the Thompsons to Kanlica and walked over the hill down by Korfez and home in the 10-oared caique. Hatzfeldt and Nelly, Baron Ittursum, Oliphant, Malet, Smijth, Ashburnham, Stevens, Bland, Sir Alfred dined with us. Monday 27th October. Went to Kavak to paint with the Thompsons. In the afternoon we got the cavass to bring us refugees to the garden to paint in our figures. Mr Wallace, Wench and a Mr Sunderland 1 dined. In the evening the latter sang to us and amused us numerously. He sang his own compositions amongst them one with a refrain "Pity me!" which convulsed us. Tuesday 28th October. Wrote for Henry before breakfast. Went to Kavak to paint. Mr Primrose and Dr Bancroft 2 of the [blank] dined also Mr Malet. Tuesday 29th October. Went with the Thompsons to paint on the Biiyiikdere road. Had a visit from Nazli Hamm. Afterwards painted Jerry as it was too wet to go out. Mr St John and Mr Smijth dined. Just as we were going into dinner Miinir Bey came to see Henry with a message from the Sultan but did not stay long. Thursday 30th October. I went to town with the Thompsons. It rained. Savas Pasha and Miinir Bey were waiting for us. [No entries from Oct. 31 to Dec. 6J. Sunday 7th December. It thundered and lightened a good deal during the night and the South wind blew. Went to church with Henry and Alice at 11. It was 1

Unable to identify.

2

Unable to identify.

- 225 too wet to go out at all so Henry and I walked on the corridor and then I wrote letters. Alice went to the 2nd service. It poured with rain the whole day. The Embassy dined with us viz Smijth, Sartoris 1 , Stevens, Lewison Gower, Sandison, Swaine, Bland, Nicolson and Mr Oliphant. Monday 8 th December. Mrs Walker came and gave me a first lesson in portrait painting. We began by setting the room next my boudoir in order and sketched my own head out as a beginning; all this took us till nearly luncheon. I played tennis after lunch with Henry, Mr Smijth and Mr Oliphant and Capt. Swaine in the court yard. Mme Negroponte and Mile Zarifi called. The Hobarts and Mr Smijth dined with us. Tuesday 9th December. Wrote and copied for the messenger. Had Turkish lesson. At about 1 got a letter to say there was a ship going to England which would take the laundry maids home and hurried them off. At 2 Mrs Walker came and gave me another lesson and I began painting my portrait in oils till dark when I had to stop. Had a good many visits: Dr. Mavroyeni, Zichy and his son, Corti and the Prince of Campo Reale, his new secretary, Mme Minghetti's son a pleasant little man speaking perfect English and Mr Foster. We dined alone and played backgammon in the evening. Mr Oliphant came in. Wednesday 10th December. I had a painting lesson and Mrs Walker stayed with me over 2 hours. I finished sketching in my portrait but it disgusted me much. Henry played tennis. It was a drizzling day but Alice and I were able to go out in the garden and measure the paths to see how far to walk for a mile and then we came in and measured the corridor. Zichy came to bid me adieu as he leaves tomorrow. Thursday 11th December. When we got up in the morning we found the ground covered with snow but it did not lie long on the ground and in the afternoon Henry and I were able to go down to Tophane and then embark in the Antelope barge and go on board the Austrian Lloyd " Venus" to see Count Zichy off who left for good. There were great many gentlemen there and there was a great bustle. All our secretaries went with us and we came away one of the first. I took Henry home and then went on to call on Lady Thomas, who was out and then to see Mme Hilmi Pasha whom I found at home. I was glad to get home and get warm. Friday 12th December. It was not quite so cold and it thawed so that the snow disappeared I spent the morning with Giovanni arranging silks for a screen. Mr Washington called to talk of the proposed chapel at Therapia. The Hobarts dined with us. Sat in the billard room after dinner and Henry played.

1 Second secretary at the embassy

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226

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Saturday 13" December. I had my Turkish lesson. We had the Washingtons, Mr Sartoris to dinner and afterwards Mme Livadari and Mr Schlumberger came and we played trios and quartets with piano and violoncello harmonium and voice and tried some glees over and had a very pleasant evening. Sunday 14th December. I was in bed all day with a very bad headache and only got on the sofa in the evening and I could not go down to dinner. Monday 15th December. I breakfasted in bed but got up by 10 in order to have my painting lesson of Mrs Walker and went on till past one. After lunch I went out in the garden but was driven in by rain and walked round the corridor. A post came from England. We had news that Alice's father had been ill with inflammation of the lungs but was getting over it. Wednesday 17"1 December. Wrote for the departing messenger all the morning and after luncheon had my Turkish lesson and then went and joined Henry in his walk in the garden but it was cold and damp and I did not stay out long. Several people called at 5 o'clock. We then dined alone. Thursday 18th December. Had a painting lesson. Friday 19"1 December. I made Jerry write a letter to Arthur which took me the best part of the morning. We also sent out Giovanni to buy us Christmas cards and sent them by post. At 1/4 to 2 I sat out in the brougham , called at the American Consul for Mrs Heap 1 and we drove to Kuruçegme to pay a visit to Mme Hayreddin Pasha. It rained, hailed and snowed as we went. Hayreddin himself received us and interpreted in the harem. His wife is a tall handsome big woman with rather pasty complexion and coal black eyes and hair. She was arrayed in yellow satin with a long train tucked up under her waist which was trimmed with white lace. Her little daughter who wore the same costume in pink, 9 years old, was very pretty and like her mother. While we were paying this visit it began to snow and Hayreddin Pasha showed us over the house which was capitally arranged. He was very proud of the bed room, a large appartment containing a divan running under the windows, a large armoire and a gigantic 4 poster carved and gilt bed- big enough for 6 people and hung with red silk. He said he had brought it from Tunis. There was a fireplace and a fire burning. The Pasha said "this is our summer bedroom" and opening the door of a good sized cupboard quite filled by an ordinary bed and a small divan he added " mais en hiver nous nous réfugions ici à cause du froid!" At the harem door we parted with Madame and went over the selamlik which was beautifully arranged and kept and there were 2 dining rooms—several drawing rooms and billard room and a charming library well warmed. The library had bookshelves let into the wall ' Wife of G.H. Heap the US consul general.

- 227 and covered with glass and had various tables one with a microscope — others with writing materials. It was a long room with windows on 2 sides to the south looking into the Bosphorus the North looking into the garden. On leaving Hayreddin we drove on to Arnavutkoy and called on the Caratheodorys and found the old lady and Mme Alexandre Pasha at home had some tea with them and then came shivering home. The Consul General and Mrs Fawcett dined with us also Mr Foster, Baron Ittersum and Capt. Fitzgerald of the Rapid. The Mantillas came in the evening and we played dominoes and had some fun. Saturday 20th December. Had a Turkish lesson. It was very cold and snowed. At 4 it was fine and I went to the meeting at the Chapel vestry to arrange about Christmas dinners and came home to tea at 5 and then practiced piano. We had the Washingtons to dinner and some music with Mr Sartorius in the evening but we did not get on very well without Mme Livadari who was not able to come. Sunday 21sl December. Went to church twice. Mrs A. Hanson and her children came and sat with me in the morning. Alice sat in choir. The Embassy dined in the evening Mr Sartoris played and I and Capt. Swaine sang in the evening. Monday 22nd December. Had Mr Guarracino and arranged with him about buying stuff to begin to make wadded jackets (hirka) for the starving refugees in the provinces. He is to buy 150 jackets to send to Philipoppolis tomorrow. Tuesday 23th December. After dinner Alice asked leave to return to the church to help over the decoration and did not come back till after 11 when we had gone to bed. I played billard with Mr Smijth and by a fluke beat him. Wednesday 24th December. Alice and Jerry went out with Hill to shop. I cut out for refugees all the morning. Henry went out after an early lunch to pay his visit to the Sultan and so Alice and I lunched alone. The whole corps diplomatique had to go to wish the Sultan a Happy New Turkish year which began 2 days ago. I was going out in the chair to pay visits when Mrs W. Hanson called and I gave up going and we cut out jackets together. Went to the service in the chapel at 5 and the anthem for tomorrow was sung and sounded very well. The Christmas decorations were finished and were very pretty indeed. There were green letters done on a ground of cotton wool representing snow and frosted and snow letters on a green ground. The Hobarts and St Johns and Sartoris dined with us and we dined in the big dining room and then sat in the billard room. Christmas Day Thursday. Went to 11 o'clock service. Music very good. I and Alice went to the 8 o'clock service for the communion. After

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church Alice went to Kandilli with Mrs Arthur to stay with her. The messenger arrived from Marseilles this morning being due last Friday. They had encountered such bad weather they had put in to Syra for repairs. All the afternoon I cut out for refugees wadded jackets. Henry and I dined quite alone. The servants had a supper and dance and before 1 went to bed I went and passed through the door at them. They danced in our dining room and keep it up till 2. Friday 26th December. Continued to cut out jackets for refugees all the morning and at 12 Mr Horace Guarracino came and carried off what I had ready. In the afternoon I went out in my chair to pay visits and only found young Mrs Maynard at home. At 5 I received as usual and had visits from Miss Sarell, Mrs Fawcett, Mrs Patterson and Mr Onou. The messenger arrived today from England and also our new 1st secretary Mr St John 1 the twin brother of the consul at Prizrend. Saturday 27th December. I snowed nearly all day. I sent for Dr. Patterson to prescribe for Henry's cold. I cut out jackets. Yacoub Khan came to luncheon. Had a visit from Mme Hilmi Pasha. Sunday 28th December. Alice returned from Kandilli with Mrs A. Hanson by church time. It was very cold and there were constant showers and snow. Henry kept his bed all day in order to try and get out of his cold. I did not leave him. Miinir Bey sent to say the Sultan wished to see Henry tomorrow. I wrote and said he was laid up but would come if he were better at which I received a very polite note from Miinir Bey saying H.M. regretted to hear of it and would not wish Henry to go to the Palace till he was quite well. The Embassy dined here as usual and Mr St John took Henry's place. Monday 29th December. Henry bed and up again. Tuesday 30th December. Mrs W. Hanson called in the morning. Mrs A. Hanson came later and stayed to luncheon. Alice went to her classes and directly after lunch she went with Mrs W. Hanson to the Christmas tree party she gave for children. She dined with the Washingtons at 5 and they went to the opening of the Institutes. I walked in the garden with Henry in the afternoon. He and I dined quite alone. Wednesday 31s1 December. I copied letters for Henry to send by messenger. Had a Turkish lesson and afternoon walked in the garden with Henry. Visits from Mrs Henry Hanson and Scaife 2 girls, Mr Sartoris, Sandison and Nicolson dined, music.

1

Fr. St John. A.H. Scaife, agent of Lloyd's.

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1880 Thursday l sl January. Had my painting lesson which took up all the morning. After lunch I went out in my chair to call on some of the ladies of the Diplomatique Corps and found most of them at home. Had a visit from the Hobarts. Henry went to see the Sultan on the Koelle affair 1 . Had Jerry, Emily and Florence to school at 5.30. Dined alone. Friday 2nd January. It was so wet that we found it impossible to go out so Alice and I cut out refugee jackets. We had a little dinner party: Ittersum, Christich, the Serkis and Scudamores with Mr St John making us 10 in all. Mr Scudamore got very tipsy and had to be carried off by his wife who was in an agony, poor thing. He was half quarrelsome, half sleepy and nearly fell down several times. He called Mrs Serkis "my dear" and "a little humbug". We were glad when he disappeared. The Mantillas came in the evening and played dominoes. Saturday 3rd January. After breakfast it was so fine that I went out in the garden with Henry and talked to Mr Sartoris and Currie, settled with Mr Sartoris where the piano was to be placed in the red drawing room. Alice went to her classes. Mrs A. Hanson came and we cut out jackets together. Henry went out riding to Hayreddin Pasha's to pay him a visit. Alice went with me, she walking, I in the chair to the Memorial Church school room where a school tea was to be given to the English school children. The Hansons were there. The children began by playing games and then had their tea. I made the acquaintance of Mr Bagden the Chaplain to the Sailors' Waterside Mission and promised to see if I could help him. Mme Fernandez and Mr St John called. We dined at 7.30 and had our musical evening. Madame Livadari sang and she brought a M. Marques to play the violin and we tried a good many things. Sunday 4th January. I had a very bad headache and remained in bed all day. The Embassy dined but I was in bed. Monday 5th January. Mrs Walker gave me my painting lesson but I was not at all well. It snowed hard. We dined at 7 and Captain Swaine and Mr Sartoris dined and took Alice to Mr Washington to the meeting of the Glee Club and Henry and I spent the evening alone. Tuesday 6th January. [No entry).

1

See The Queen's Ambassador.

- 230 Wednesday 7"1 January. Wrote for the messenger. I and Florence spent rest of morning cutting out jackets. I sent Alice to ask Mme Mantilla to take her to the Fourniers' ball tonight which she said she would do and so she and her husband came at 10 to fetch Alice. Thursday 8 th January. Had painting lesson. It snowed hard all day. Mme Bartholeyns called. Had a small dinner party, the Heidenstams, the Thomas, Mr Hamilton Lang 1 , and Mr Schmidt 2 , 10 of us in all. They played dominoes in the evening. Friday 9th January. Cut out jackets, After luncheon I went out to call for Mme Hilmi Pasha and to be introduced to Mme Kabuli Pasha 3 who lived 3 doors off. She amused me very much. Talks very amusing French. She showed me some jewelry she wished to sell. We drove afterwards to the German Embassy where I left cards for Mrs Tyrell 4 and then we took a drive on the Taksim road but we did not get far on account of the snow and bad roads. Then I went in and sat with Mme Hilmi and had tea with her before I came home. Mme Serkis and Mme Allahverdi called on me. Had the children to school. After dinner Alice and I went to Mrs Sartoris' room to join in the little musical party. The Schlumbergers were there, also Mr Caillard 5 , a Colonel Verequin a Russian who played the violin. We stayed there till 12. Saturday 10"' January. All the morning cut out. Walked in the garden in the afternoon. At 5 Mrs Fawcett called. Had my school. Dined at 7.30 and Mr Sartoris with us and had our musical evening. It however was not successful. We began by practicing the Requiem of Cherubini and it went very well but later the Hobarts, Corti, the St Johns, Schlumbergers, Mr Caillard came and everybody wanted to perform and no one sang well and I was in despair and glad to send them all off at 12 Henry having already been driven to bed. Sunday 11th January. It was very cold and snowed nearly all day. I went to church at 11 with Alice. Henry had to go to see the Sultan. It was so cold and I felt so ill I had to come away before the end of the service. Mr Guarracino came to say he would send 300 hirkas to Philipoppolis on Tuesday. After lunch Alice and I sang the Requiem over. Had a visit from Mme and Mile Fournier. Then Dr. Patterson came to see me and ended by ordering me off to bed as I had not been well since last Sunday. So I went off. Not sorry. j' A director of the Banque Impériale Ottomane. Unable to identify. 3

Widow of Kabuli Pasha, former minister at St Petersburg.

4

Unable to identify.

^ V. Caillard from the Dette Publique Ottomane.

- 231 Monday 12lh January. Remained in bed all day. Hill brought the wild cat Zena in to me and we began to tame her. Henry and Alice dined early and Alice went to the Glee meeting. It snowed all day. Mail came in. Koelle affair finished and Henry went to the Porte. Tuesday 13lh January. Mrs W. Hanson came and sat with me in the afternoon. I got on the sofa about 5 o'clock. Had my school. Wednesday 14th January. Wrote in bed till lunch time as I had to copy for Henry being messenger day. I wrote a long letter to Lady Ely. Sat in the boudoir, Capt. Swaine and Mr Sartoris came up to see me. Dined upstairs. Alice came up and sat with me. Zena has become much calmer and slept in a basket by my side. School. Thursday 15th January. Got up after breakfast. Cut out. Sang with Mme Livadari for a couple of hours practising the Alto part of Cherubini's Requiem till lunch time came. After lunch, I was cutting when they came to say Miinir Bey was here so went down. He talked of the Sultan's wish that his harem would help to make Refugee clothes so I took him upstairs and showed him what we were cutting out as Alice, Florence and Emily were at work. I then took him into the boudoir to see my cage with birds the Sultan had sent me. I went out and walked with Henry in the garden. The snow lay a foot deep although in the sun it thawed a little. Came in and sat up stairs, cut out and had tea. Had school. However Florence could not spell "possible" so I wrote and pinned it to her back and front to Jerry's great delight. Dined alone and I practiced Requiem in the evening. Friday 16th January. Got up to breakfast. Sang with Alice the Requiem a little. At 11 I had a painting lesson and began Alice's portrait till luncheon. Mrs A. Hanson called. Henry was kept from luncheon by a visit from Said Pasha the Grand Vizir. I had such a headache I was obliged to go and lie down. At 3 when Dr. Patterson came he gave me a dose 30 grains of bicar. of soda, 20 drops of sel volatile water and a teaspoon of lemon juice. I remained in the bed and had another dose and was then able to dress for dinner. We had the Parniss', the Heaps, the Pears and Mr Palfrey Burrell 1 , not a very lively party. Mr Pears was agreeable and well informed. Alice was taken faint in the middle of dinner and had to go to bed. Saturday 17th January. Up for breakfast. Cut out all the morning. Practising Requiem with Alice. It snowed all day. Alice went to her classes. Dr. Patterson came to see me, ordered me wine and to give up the dieting recommended by Sir H. Thompson. Had a visit from Hobart Pasha who has just come back from shooting at izmit having shot 250 woodcock in 3 days to his own gun. Practised singing again and organ while Alice went to choir ' W. Palfrey Burrell, consul at Port Said.

- 232 practise. Sent Jerry, Hill and Florence to the Pantomime. Capt. Swaine dined with us at 7.30 and directly after Mme Livadari and Signor Marchesi came and we practised the Requiem. Mr Washington, Mr Sartoris and M. and Mme Schlumberger came later and we hammered on at it till midnight. Sunday 18th January. Wrote all the morning but did not dare go to church as it snowed and was very cold. In the afternoon it stopped for a little while and then I went out in the garden for 1/2 hour and walked up and down and met Mr Sartoris and Leveson Gower doing the same. Came in at 5. Mr Wrench called and sat talking for some time. At 5 o'clock I had shiversetc. as I had had for several days at the same hour. Mr Hunt and the Messenger Mr Woodford dined with us besides the members of the Embassy. The Sartoris and I played duets on harmonium and piano. Monday 19lh January. Had such a bad headache I could not get up. Patterson came. Towards evening I got a little better and sat up in armchair. Hill told me that Mrs Currie 1 and Emily had had a quarrel and latter struck her mother. I had her in, talked to her and made her ask mother's pardon. Alice went to the Glee Club. Henry came and read papers in my room. Fine day.

Dr. the the her his

Tuesday 20"1 January. It had snowed heavily all last night and weather was worse than ever. Wrote letters in bed and did not get up till 3 o'clock and then went to the boudoir. Mr Washington called. Had the school - all very stupid. Mrs Hobart, the Fernandez, Ittersum and Mr Smijth dined and they played dominoes in the evening. It was a fearful night. The wind howled and the snow drifted. Mr Oliphant came in the evening. Wednesday 21st January. Got up late as breakfasted in bed and copied Henry's letter before I got up as the messenger left today. Thursday 22nd January. Got up directly after breakfast and had a singing lesson of Mme Livaderi and practised the Requiem. Friday 23rd January . I had a lesson of Mrs Walker and began a portrait of Alice — just drew it. Wrote letters for the post and walked in the garden in afternoon. The Hobarts came to see me. I gave them tea in my boudoir. I warned them not to ask Turkish ladies to their masked balls as it would be sure to anger the Sultan against the Pasha. They said they had thought of doing so but he said he agreed with me and should put a stop to it. We had a small dinner party: the Pattersons, Willy Hanson and Radolinski. Mr d'Ehrenhoff and Amy and Major Colborne 2 and [blank] They played dominoes in the evening. It was dreadfully cold.

' A member of the Layard household. Unable to identify.

- 233 Saturday 24th January. Practise the Requiem. Cut out refugee things. In the afternoon I went out in the garden for a short time with Alice. The Armenian ladies called in the morning to tell me the Armenian Ball I patronise is to be on Thursday. It was exceptionally cold out and the snow is still deep. Had my usual evening school. Florence was very stupid and made such dreadful mistakes that I turned her out and refused to teach her any more. Mr Sartoris and the Washingtons dined with us. Madame Livadari, the 2 Schlumbergers, the fiddler Marchesi and Capt. Swaine came and we rehearsed the Requiem till 12 at night. Sunday 25lh January. I went to morning service. I kept Florence up in her room in punishment. After lunch walked in the garden with Henry. Mme Mantilla came to see me and sat a long time chatting up in my boudoir. The Embassy dined with us. In the evening Savas Pasha and Parniss Efendi came to sign the Slave Trade Convention with Henry and then came to tea with me. It was rather amusing to hear Henry chaff Savas but such an abject creature as he is could hardly understand it and got dreadfully worried and confused. Monday 26th January. It was a fine sunny day. Mme Livadari came to practise the Requiem. Alice went to the bazaars with Mrs Arthur Hanson. Henry and I walked in the garden. Mrs and Mr Willy Hanson came to see me and Mrs H. gave me some information about the American home at Scutari where 1 have determined to put Florence to school. I received at 5 o'clock for the first time for a long time Mr Whitaker, Woods Bey and Hobart Pasha called. School, Emily and Jerry. Tuesday 27th January. In bed all day with headache. In the evening was able to sit in the boudoir. Wednesday 28lh January. Copied for the messenger and only got up after in time for my painting lesson. We had a great fuss because Mr Thompson had began to knock a hole in the wall of our china closet without asking permission and Giovanni was in a fury and I and Mr St John were in constant communication about it. Walked in the garden in the afternoon with Alice and Henry. Only Mr Fawcett called to say his wife would be delighted to represent me at the Armenian ball tomorrow. Dined alone and early to bed. Thursday 29"' January. Mme Livadari came and I practised with her. I went out in the chair to pay visits. Still freezing and it was very slippery and dangerous walking for the chairmen. I only found Mrs Sarell in and Mme Lafontaine in. At the latter's I was entertained with what was called the "Philippine" story as follows. Mrs Honischen when dining with the Hobarts divided a double almond with Mrs Hobart. If Mrs Honischen lost the Philippine she was to claim the Admiral if Mrs Hobart lost she was to claim Mrs Honischen dress, a very smart one. Mrs Hobart met her next day and

- 234 won the dress. Mrs Honischen sent it her and had done nothing but mourn its loss and the 45 Pound it had cost her and all her adorers were in despair and said "oh you have never given away my dress." As soon as I returned home Hobart Pasha came to see me and I asked him the truth of all this and he said it was true but his wife had not won the dress although she had kept it but he would make her return it. Mme Schlumberger came to bid me good bye as she leaves tomorrow. The Henry Hansons arrived to stay with us and dine. We had a little dinner party, viz Count Dubsky the new Austrian Minister whom we had known at Madrid, the Kosjeks, Onou, de Longeville and Mr Bratiano. The Mantillas came in the evening and they played dominoes and I sang a little. Friday 30th January. Mrs Henry Hanson left about 11 when I have my painting lesson and went on with Alice's portrait. A warm pleasant day. Walked in the garden. At 5, I received visits. The Heaps called also Mrs Fawcett who came to say how delighted she had been the Armenian ball. Mr Maynard also called and Blacque Bey 1 and I attacked the latter about the poisonous gas they were making in the town. He said it was owing to bad coal and that they were expecting more from England which was probably a lie but we were forced to pretend to believe it. We dined quite alone and went early to bed. Saturday 31st January . I painted Alice's portrait. Tidied up my rooms. Dr. Zohrab called. Mrs Arthur Hanson came to lunch. It was a very fine day and a thaw. I did not go out, wrote and read. Received at 5. Had visits from the Hobarts still in a flutter over the Philippine story and Hobart thirsting "to punch some one's head". Mr Vincent called and then Mrs J. Calvert and then Lady Thomas and later Misses Pangalo 2 . They came to say the Americans would accept Florence as a pupil at the Home at Scutari and she could go on Monday. I had an examination of Jerry and Emily for the end of the month which proved satisfactory. Capt. Swaine, Mr Sartoris and Mr Washington dined and we sat to work on the Requiem at 8.30. In the middle of the evening Count Corti, Prince Camporeale and Collobiano 3 came in for a short time but we did not stop our practise. Mme Livadari and Mr Marchesi 4 came and sang. Sunday 1st February. Henry and I both went to church. There was still a thaw but the snow still lies in the garden. Wrote and read in the afternoon. Dr. Patterson came to see me. Then Mme Mantilla came to say they had dined 1

President of the municipality. Unable to identify.

3

Secretary at the Italian legation.

4

Instructor at Robert College.

- 235 last night with the Sultan. H.M. had sent me all kinds of polite messages through her when she spoke of us as she did a great deal, telling H.M. how fond we were of him and how much we spoke of him. To which he replied that we were right to be fond of him as he was fond of us. She was delighted with the Sultan and his politeness and said he would have a shawl got for her lest she should get cold at which she told him he was "muy galante" and he said it was the duty of men to be galant. In fact she was delighted and sat talking to me for more than an hour. She was very amusing about Dr Blanc, the French Doctor she met there. She said an old gentleman came up to her and said "You don't remember me Marquise" and she said "I have seen your face but I don't know where". "On board the boat, the doctor", he said. At which she screamed "You here and with the red cap!" and then she remembered he was the doctor on board the Messageries who had looked after her when she was sea sick on her journey here and she had taken no notice of him, not even shaken hands with him and even thrown away the medicines he ordered her, having no confidence in him, now there he was at the Palace with his red cap (fez) Doctor to a Sultan. While the Marquesa was with me Henry came up with an invitation for us to dine at the Palace on Wednesday. Had headache and went to bed as soon as I could before dinner. The Embassy dined as usual. Monday 2nd February. Breakfasted in bed and let Madame Livadari go away. Alice gave me a sitting for her portrait. Florence went off to school. Hill went with her and they went off with Miss Pangalo at 8 o'clock. At 3 o'clock I went out in the sedan chair. Called on Mme Fournier and found her at home. Asked her if she would take Alice home if she went this winter. She said she was not sure of going but would let me know if they did and if they went direct. I went to Mrs Hobart; met Mme Seefelder 1 the bride there. She was Miss Guarracino. She was dressed wonderfully fine and in a large white felt hat. On to Mrs Fernandez also at home. Then to Mrs Washington and paid a visit to the old lady and then home. Helen Sarell called and the new Austrian Secretary Count Montgelas, a nice man, spoke English, was 8 years in England. Alice did not go to the glee club. We played dominoes Mrs Arthur, Mr Sartoris , Henry and I. Tuesday 3rd February. I painted Alice's portrait sat in the studio and tried to write letters for the first post but I had so many interruptions that I could not get through many. Mrs Newman came and we had great discussion about whether the law allowed her to make contracts to keep her children a certain number of years to educate. She was excited and I tried to calm her spirit. We lunched at one. Henry went to Stamboul to pay visits. Mrs Arthur 1

Wife of L. Seefelder, director of the Haydarpa§a Railway.

- 236 left us. Alice went out with Hill and so I got a rest, laid on the sofa and read till tea time. Aimée, Mme Condouriotis, Mme Mantilla, Mr Willy Hanson, Count Dubsky called and Radolinski called and I had a clearing up with him as to why he never came near us. He said he had thought I was not "so kind" to him as I was at Madrid, we parted friends. We dined alone but directly after dinner Mme Livadari, and Sr Marchesi, Messrs Sartoris and Swaine came and we practised our Requiem. Count Corti, Mr Oliphant came in the evening for a little while. Wednesday 4th February. Copied Henry's letters for messenger. Had a painting lesson- Henry and Alice rode. I walked for a little while in the garden. There was a little drizzling rain from time to time. Had a visit from Mme Hilmi Pasha and Mme Kabuli. Heaps of people came to call, the Longevilles, Mrs Honischen and Mrs Whitaker, Capt. Fitzgerald, Mrs Arthur Hanson and Ethel, Mme Parniss. Mr Nicolson, Ittersum, Mr Smijth and Mr Wallace dined and we played dominoes. Thursday 5"1 February. Mme Livadari and Sr Marchesi came and we 3 had along practise of the Requiem. Post came. Heard from Lady Ely and Blanche. It was a very fine day and the snow continued to melt. I did not go out but had a quiet read. Mavrocordatos called and Hobart Pasha. Had Mr Leveson Gower, Mr Bland and Mr Stevens to dinner and we sat in the billard room after. Mr Oliphant and Mr St John joined us. They went off early to the Condouriotis ball. Friday 6th February. I had a painting lesson of Mrs Walker and went on with Alice's portrait. Henry and Alice went out riding. The Minister of Police Hafiz Pasha called on Henry for the first time since the Koelle affair. I went out walking in the garden and met old Mrs Washington there and took a turn with her. Mrs W. Hanson came to see me also Mme Kosjek, Mr Schiessl Perstorff 1 and Prince Karadja 2 . We had a dinner party which was rather a failure as Miss Zarifi, Mme Condouriotis and Mrs W. Hanson disappointed us. We had Condouriotis, Montgelas, Zarifi, Collobiano and Van der Bossche 3 . We had invited the Persian Ambassador and his secretary but after waiting some time in vain we went into dinner and then discovered that I had made a mistake in the date and that I asked him for the 9th and today is the 6th. The Mantillas came in and played dominoes in the evening. Saturday 7th February. Had painting lesson but cannot say that I got on much with Alice's portrait as it seemed to me worse than before. I walked in the garden with Henry in the afternoon. The snow was fast disappearing and ^ Secretary at the Austro-Hungarian embassy. -a

Future Ottoman minister at The Hague. Counsellor at the Belgian legation

- 237 the bulbs beginning to show above ground. It was rather chilly and no sunshine. Alice went to the choir practise. Hobart Pasha called and Mme Etienne Pisani and her daughter. When I came upstairs I found Mr Sartoris in my boudoir dressed up in his Turkish lady's costume which Hill made him for the Hobarts' ball. He, Capt. Swaine and Mme Livadari dined and we practised the Requiem all the evening. Sunday 8 th February. I went to church in the morning and came out with a headache at the end of it so that directly after lunch I had to go and lie down in my room. Hill had to leave the church and so had young Baker and I was told someone fainted at the evening service so I suspect there is something wrong with the stove. I got a little better by 5 and was able to dress and got to dine with the Sultan at Yildiz. We started at 1/4 to 6 and got there in very good time having to wait about 1/2 hour. H.M. received us in his small room and stood talking for a few minutes before he led the way into dinner. I sat in his right and next me were the 3 young Princes. The 2 eldest dressed as common soldiers and the little one (H.M.'s nephew) as a sailor, then came Alice. They behaved very well indeed after a preliminary hussle for forks. They watched me to see what I did and followed me very exactly as to use of knife and fork. The Sultan was in very good spirits and eat well. He was very nice, polite as ever. I got a hot water thing put for my feet which kept me from being quite ill but I did not feel well. After dinner we 3 and Sir Alfred Sandison, H.M. and Miinir Bey sat together and they talked a little on affairs, on the advance of Russians to Merv and our affairs in Afghanistan. It was nearly 11 before H.M. let us go and I was glad to get home, have some tea and get to bed. Monday 9th February. Capt. Swaine, Mme Livadari and Sr Marchesi came and we had long practise of the Requiem which took up nearly all the morning. Had a visit from Yacoub Khan. After lunch I sat down to my desk to write Blanche a long letter but I only got up 1/2 through, it as Mrs Arthur Hanson, Ida d'Ehrenhoff came and then I had a hussle with Jerry who was in a naughty mood and I ended by ordering him to bed. I had a good many visitors, the Bartholeyns, Mr Vincent, Montgelas, Radolinski, Onou, Mr Gatherall and Condouriotis. Mr Smijth, Nicolson and Sartoris dined with us and afterwards we dressed the 2 latter for the Hobarts' ball. Mr Nicolson was quite disguised, Mr Sartoris' get up was very good but his height betrayed him. They went off at 11 and we went to bed. We got no English mail as the weather at Varna had been so bad they had not been able to get mails on board. Tuesday 10th February. Wrote for the post nearly all the morning. Alice went out with Mrs Arthur Hanson and Henry and I were alone at

- 238 luncheon. Mr Gatherall called and I sent by him to his sister in law some money for the refugees at Bebek. At 2.30 I went out riding with Henry. We went by the Taksim on the Therapia road and round by Yildiz, just before getting there we met Corti riding and he joined us. We came round by Be§ikta§ and the German Embassy home. At 5 o'clock I had several visitors, Captain Haan and the Condouriotis and then I went up to hear Emily's lesson Jerry having been kept prisoner in bed all day was absent. Mrs W. Hanson brought her little children dressed in fancy dress to see us. Mr Caillard, Mr Oliphant, Mr Wallace dined. Mrs Arthur Hanson and Mr d'Ehrenhoff, Aimée and Ida came in the evening and played dominoes. This afternoon I received a letter and parcel from Munir Bey sending one from the Sultan 2 games of Petchiz, a Turkish game which he had spoken of on Sunday when we dined there. But Miinir confessed he could not tell us how to play. The game is a card board with marks on where to place small draughts' men and it is accompanied by 6 small dice maked on 3 sides with 1 and the other sides blank. Wednesday 11th February. Having a cold and headache and a great deal to write I stopped in bed till after lunch. Hill went to Therapia for the day. Had tea and then had a rehearsal of the Requiem which went much better excepting that we were all very hoarse and I especially. However we practised for nearly 2 hours. Mr Sartoris dined with us and starts tomorrow on a journey to Syria. I was obliged to go off early to bed and take some remedies for my cold. Thursday 12th February. Stayed in bed all the morning, my cold being troublesome. Dr. Patterson called also Mme Mantilla. The Hobarts and Mr [blank] dined with us and they played dominoes in the evening. Two posts came in. Friday 13th February. I had my painting lesson and went with Alice's portrait till lunch time. At lunch Henry proposed riding and as Alice did not feel inclined I said I would go so we ordered the horses and started about 3. We went by the Taksim to the Okmeydan but I was so stiff from my cold I could hardly trot. As we got near the top of the hill, Henry said he would take a trot but I need not come. I said "Oh yes, I will try" and off we set in a few minutes to my horror I beheld Henry's horse come down with a bang and Henry under him. For a moment I thought he must be crushed as the horse lurched over but he managed to get back the other way and got on its legs. I said "Oh James" with my heart in my mouth. James rode up and caught the horse who stood quietly by his fallen rider and Henry sat up looking rather bewildered and in answer to our question at to whether he was hurt- said he tought not and asked what had happened. I offered to go to a cottage a little

- 239 way off and to get him some water. But he said he was all right. I begged him to sit still a few minutes which he did and there James dusted him and Mercan who seemed to have fallen chiefly on his back — his knees not being even touched. Henry then remounted saying he only felt a little pain in his side and we rode home. We met Sir Alfred riding back from Yildiz and Henry talked business with him as he went along. We came in very cold and had tea. Hobart Pasha called and it was not till after he was gone that Henry began to feel that he had sprained his right wrist and so I sent by Doctor Patterson to come. He bound up the wrist and ordered a flannel band round his chest but no medicines. Henry had rather a bad night with the pain in his hand. Saturday 14lh February. I painted all the morning. In the afternoon as Henry was not feeling well I persuaded him to lie down in my room and sleep. I mounted guard to prevent Jerry making a noise or any one disturbing him. I received visits from the Heidenstams, Mrs W. Hanson and Mr Wallace. The latter tells me Engländer 1 has telegraphed home Henry's fall and will thereby have alarmed friends at home. It appears that Hobart Pasha offered to tell Engländer startling news if he would stand him oysters and champagne which he did. The Mantillas, Count Corti, and Baron Ittersum dined with us and they had a game of dominoes in which I was glad to see Henry join. Sunday 15th February. I went to church in the morning but in the afternoon remained at home. Embassy to dine with us. Monday 16lh February. I had a painting lesson and went on with Alice's portrait. Mrs Arthur Hanson came to luncheon and took Alice back to Kandilli to stay with her. Henry and I were quite alone in the evening. Tuesday 17lh February. We had our great Ministerial dinner and sat down 25 at table. I had Said Pasha the Grand Vizir on my right and Safvet Pasha on my left. They all seemed to enjoy themselves and drank plenty of wine. Some tasted the sherbets which was placed on the table before them and made faces over it. Miinir Bey, Hobart Pasha, Parniss Efendi were amongst those who dined. After dinner Mrs Hobart came having been dining at the secretaries mess. Miinir Bey taught me to play the game of Petchiz which the Sultan sent me one a few days ago. It is a Circassian game played in the royal harem and is somewhat like our game of steeple chase. Wednesday 18,h February. Henry passed a bad night and I sent for Patterson but he said no bones were broken and he was only suffering from bruises and strain. I copied letters for Henry to send by messenger. Cut out refugee clothes. Patterson came and said Henry might go out walking and we went out in the garden but he had to come in and lie down very soon. I sat with him. Count Dubsky called on me and Mr Washington and I asked the ' Reuter's agent.

- 240 latter to go for me to Scutari to enquire about the girls' food as I heard such a bad account of it. Thursday 19th February. Snowed in the night and was a dull day. Hill went over to Scutari to visit Florence for the first time since she went to school. Friday

20 th February. Mr Washington

went to Scutari

to my

commission. Mrs Hobart dined with us. Hobart was away shooting. Henry better. Saturday 21 st February. The two French laundry maids arrived from Marseilles and got here before breakfast. Jerry went to see Florence with Harry Stock 1 . Mrs A. Hanson and her children came to stay here. Alice had invited other children to come in their masque dresses to tea in my boudoir. Mrs Heap came with her daughter and Mrs W. Hanson. Sunday 22 ad February. I went to church in the morning. Sang hymns with the Hanson children in afternoon. Mr Wrench called to talk about Lady Strangford's English school in the way of establishing which there are so many difficulties. The whole Embassy dined with us as usual and Mr Woodford the messenger. Monday 23 rd February. A bad headache kept me in bed till evening. Tuesday 24th February. It was very cold we even had a little snow. Henry had a meeting of the Corps diplomatique on some business and afterwards most of the gentlemen came in to see me viz Ittersum, Mantilla, Ehrenhoff and Christich. Then came Mme Mantilla bringing with her Madame Camara to pay me a visit. Mme Camara fancied there was some split between us and Mme Mantilla and brought her to make up. Mr and Mrs Clifton and Mr Wallace and Mr Smijth dined with us. The Mr and Mrs Smythe

of

the

Ottoman

Bank

were

prevented

coming

through

her

indisposition. Some played dominoes while Mrs Clifton talked to me and nearly sent me to sleep. Giovanni worked himself up into a rage over my impertinent hammal and Mr St John was called in to smooth it down. Wednesday 25 lh February. Had a painting lesson and copied for Henry for the Messenger. Ittersum dined and we had dominoes. Thursday 26 lh February. Arthur Burr arrived and was duly installed as Henry's private secretary. I heard that Mr St John was displeased at Giovanni's manner and so I went to his rooms to try to explain it away but he was convinced that Giovanni was tipsy. After a long discussion and a refutation on my part of the accusation Mr St John told me he wished to warn me as regards Mrs Hobart that he advised me not to let Alice be with her. He had known her at Naples and knew many things against her character and was 1

A member of the Layard household.

- 241 sure I would not wish Alice to be with her. I was not quite surprised at this and as I had an instinctive dislike and distrust of her for sometime past, especially since the affair of the Philippine in which she had not been open about and had told me so many lies about. Walked in the garden in the afternoon with Henry and Arthur and saw one of our chimneys on fire. The men soon went to work to extinguish it and unfortunately Mr Thompson had the brilliant idea of pouring water down the chimney which brought pails of soot down into the red drawing room and spoilt our carpet. We got taken up and cleaned and were able to use the room in the evening and we had a dinner party consisting of the Fourniers and Mile and the Persian Ambassador and his secretary. Friday 27th February. Feb. I painted in the morning. Mr Washington called. I went out in the chair to pay visits. Found the La Fountaines and Mrs Millingen at home and it was lovely weather. Visits from Mavroyeny and his daughter. He was exceedingly amusing. He told us absurd stories of the cupidity of Mahmud Damat Pasha and how he had sent him a letter to give to the Sultan begging him to let him return from exile. Mavroyeni said he had written to the Damat to say that as he (Mavroyeny) owed a debt of gratitude to the Damat's father he would not ask him more 1000 Pounds for delivering the letter. Otherwise he would have asked 10,000 Pounds. He said that the Damat had not sent the money and the letter was still in his hands. Hobart Pasha and Mr Ede also called. In the evening dominoes. Saturday 28th February. Painted. Just before lunch. I went with Hill over the laundry to meet the stewardess of the Messageries and to scold her for not having brought me over competent laundrydresses. We arranged that we would teach them if they were willing to learn. Walked in the garden and met Mrs Willy Hanson and her baby there. Sunday 29* February. I went to church in the morning and we had a dreadfully long sermon from Mr Bagden. I walked in the garden with Henry after lunch and then had my teeth stopped by Dr Dorigny who came here to do it. Had usual Embassy dinner. Mr Onou and Col. Kummerau 1 were out riding beyond the Taksim and before they came to Pancaldi when some Turks met them and fired at them. Mr Onou was not touched but Col. Kummerau was badly wounded and had to be taken into the French hospital. There is great horror and excitement. It is supposed Onou's death was intended - some vengeance — and that assassins were hired ones. Monday 1st March. I painted in the morning while Alice read aloud to me. Got a post from England and had a long letter from Blanche in which she tells me that after 14 years Lady Powerscourt is going to have a baby. I ' Military attaché at the Russian embassy.

- 242 walked in the garden with Henry. At tea time Mr Wallace called and stayed a long time talking books. Alice, Henry and I dined alone and we got Mr Smijth to come and play dominoes with us. Tuesday 2nd March. Henry went to see the Sultan directly after breakfast and only returned to luncheon. Alice read aloud to me. I wrote a long letter to Blanche and one to Mrs Burr. I had a headache and did not go out in the afternoon but rested. Ittersum, Nicolson dined with us. Count Corti and his friend Mr Cagnola and also Mr Oliphant came in the evening and there was dominoes. We had met Cagnola at Venice formerly and were glad to see him. Wednesday 3rd March. Had a painting lesson and finished Alice's portrait. In the afternoon Alice and I went out in the victoria, drove to Kabata§ to call on Mme Kazim but did not find her at home. Poor Col. Kummerau died of his wounds today. It appears the members are fanatic Bosnians but they were all 3 taken. It is thought one of them only fired and the other two tried to disarm him as they have both wounds on their hands. The 1st who fired escaped and was pursued and taken after running a great distance and was at last stoned and was much battered at the head before he was taken. The Washingtons came to see me, also Mr Smijth and Mme Mantilla. We dined with Corti and met Cagnola, Collobiano and Mr Nicolson. Had a dull evening and were glad to be home. Thursday 4th March. Mr Kummerau's funeral took place. He was Protestant. There was a crowd and a good deal of excitement. It appears the Russians posted men in the Grand Rue who gave the "faire parts" to every passer by. Our secretaries went. Friday 5th March. Henry's birthday. The messenger arrived from England. I played tennis after luncheon with Alice, Mr Oliphant and afterwards I went in the garden with Henry. Count Corti, the Mantillas, Mr St John dined with us and there was the usual dominoes in the evening. Saturday 6th March. Had a painting lesson but it was a very wet day. All we did was to do up the backgrounds of my and Alice's portraits. It cleared up in the afternoon and after a game of tennis I walked in the garden with Henry. However at dinner time my head ached so that I went to bed instead of dressing for dinner. Sunday 7 th March. I stayed in bed till about 3 o'clock and then got up and took a turn in the garden for it was very fine. Embassy dinner. Monday 8 th March. The weather was so fine that we were able to sit out in the garden. I had a visit from Mme Dubsky who had arrived from Athens yesterday at the same time as Capt. Swaine. She is fair, tall and slight and young but not very contended looking. I fancy already she regrets

-

243

-

Athens. Alice dined at the Washingtons and Arthur Burr dined with "the Miss ". Henry and I were quite alone and played dominoes together in the evening. When Alice came in she said it was very fine but rather cold. We had the kitchen chimney on fire again. Thursday 9th March. In the middle of the night we were awoke by a sudden gust of wind and the banging of doors and in the morning to our horror and astonishment found it was snowing hard. We could hardly believe our senses! We were to have gone to some amateur horse races at the Sweet Waters but they were of course put off as it snowed all day off and on. Today is our 11 th wedding day and in honour of it I let Jerry, Emily off their lessons and played a game of dominoes with them. The Hobarts, Ittersum and Mr Nicolson and Mr Wallace dined with us. Dominoes after dinner. Wednesday 10th March. Had a painting lesson and repainted the mouth of my own portrait. It was cold and there were snow and showers all the morning. In the afternoon it cleared and I went out on my sedan chair and paid a visit to Mme Dubsky who does not seem to find the place improve on acquaintance but complains that it is une vie de couvent. Mrs A. Hanson dined and slept here. Mr Nicolson dined. Mr Leweson Gower and Mr Oliphant came in the evening. Thursday 11th March. 1 had a singing lesson of Mme Livadari and got Mr Leveson Gower up and made him try his voice and then tried Arthur Burr's. Arthur turns out to have tenor voice which is a great thing as we want one. Alice read aloud to me while I worked. Henry drove out and Alice and I went in the garden, it was warm and fine and we sat and worked looking in the sun till Henry joined us and we walked up and down. Mrs Crawford and Doctor, and Miss Sarell called and Mr Smijth and Mr Leveson Gower dined. Friday 12lh March. Alice read to me while I worked. In the afternoon Alice and Henry and I walked in the garden and though the sun was hot the wind was bitter so we did not stay out long. The Austrian Baron Haan, the commander of the stationnaire called. Also Count Montholon, Mr Bagden and then the Heaps. Mrs Heap was very kind about offering to write to America to get help for the refugees. The Willy Hansons dined with us in the evening, Count Corti came in the evening. Dominoes. Saturday 13th March. We found it snowing hard when we woke so I stayed in bed till lunch time. It was terribly cold and the snow got thicker and thicker and the wind higher. It was so cold and horrid that one did not like to look out of doors. I played tennis after lunch with Henry, Arthur and Mr Smijth and then Aimée came and Alice and she played. I read and wrote. I made the children's lessons short in order to have a little time to myself. Mrs

- 244 Arthur Hanson came to dine and sleep. Capt. Swaine also dined. A fearful cold night. Sunday 14th March. A horrible morning. A hurricane came from the North and blinding snow storms which kept us all at home. In the morning reading and talking. After lunch it cleared a little and just about 5 it got quite fine and there was a lovely sunset. The wind fell and it was fine but freezing. In some places the snow was quite deep and so dry that the wind blew it about like dust. We looked in vain for the messenger. Mr Oliphant and Mrs Arthur Hanson made up the 14 at dinner at which all the Embassy was present viz Secretary St John, Sandison, Nicolson, Stephens, Lewison Gower, Smijth, Bland, Capt. Swain, A. Burr and Alice and ourselves. Monday 15111 March. Snowed hard all the morning. Capt. Swain, Mme Livadari and M. de la Torre came and we had a rehearsal of the Requiem which went very well and took us till nearly lunch time. After lunch Henry, Mr Smijth, Arthur and I played tennis and at 3 we were joined by Mrs Willie Hanson. At 5 Alice and 1 went to tea with Mrs Leveson Gower in the map room and then I had a long visit from Countess Montgelas. Mr Smijth dined with us and they played dominoes while Mrs Arthur Hanson and I retired to the red drawing room and I sang to her. Tuesday 16th March. I wrote for the post but I had to remain in bed all day having such a bad headache. Savas Pasha dined but I did not go down. Wednesday 17th March. Copied Henry's letters in bed and only got up for lunch. Mrs Walker paid me a visit in my room and Mrs Arthur came and sat with me. It was a fine day and a thaw and Henry went into the garden. I did not go out not feeling very well. Visit from Mme Miihlig 1 and Horace Guarracino about making more refugee clothes and later from Count Radolinski. Had a dinner party in honor of Countess Dubsky at which besides her and her husband we had Mr Basily (Russian Sec.), Prince Campo Reale, the Villa Mantillas, Count Corti, Mr St John, Alice and Arthur Burr 12 in all. There was usual game of dominoes. Thursday 18lh March. Mme Livadari gave me a singing lesson. It snowed tremendously all day. There was no getting out so I played tennis with Arthur, Capt. Swaine and Mr Oliphant. Had a visit from Mr Joliffe, of the Antelope and Mr Pritchard who is still in the ship. Mr Smijth, Mr Wallace and Mr Bunbury 2 dined. The latter amused us very much by his consequential manner, absence of shyness and nasal twang. There was the usual dominoes in the evening and Mr Wallace and I talked of books.

1 Wife of the director of the German hospital. Unable to identify.

- 245 Friday 19th March. I had a domestic morning interviewing laundry maids. Mr Washington came to see me about church matters. I set to work with Hill to cut out the pattern of a dressing gown from a fashion book which took us some time us as we made the gown in calico and tried it on. After lunch Mr Smijth came to say good bye as he is starting for England. Alice went to church practise and I had visits from Dr Collins and Mr Philips officers of the Antelope and Mrs Hobart and Count Corti bringing a young Marquis Porcinari his new secretary to introduce. It snowed hard all day and only cleared towards evening. Mr Nicolson and Mr Bland dined with us. Dominoes. Saturday 20th March. The messenger arrived from Marseilles and Hatzfeldt returned to his post. I had a painting lesson. Mrs Walker brought a little girl as a model and I made a sketch for a picture of a Circassian slave. It snowed hard and there was no getting out so I walked in the corridor with Henry and then cut out refugees clothes with Emily till 5. Had visits from Ct. Dubsky and Mr Onou, the latter very excited about the trial of Col. Kummerau's murderer. He says he fears the Turks are going to prove him "a lunatic" and if they do and he gets off it will be an infamie etc. Sir Alfred Sandison and Mr Oliphant dined. Dominoes in the evening. Sunday 21st March. The weather was fine and I went to morning service. Had a quiet afternoon till 5 when had visits from Mrs Lascelles 1 and Countess Dubsky. The embassy to dinner also Ittersum and Ct Hatzfeldt. Mrs A. Hanson lunched with us and took Alice for a walk after. Monday 22nd March. Fine weather. Mme Livadari gave me singing lesson. Mrs Newman called to say she wished to give up a Jewish girl to the Jews as she had completed her education. Henry went to visit Hatzfeldt being the Emperor's birthday. 1 remained at home and wrote letters to Maria about the refugees. Mrs Willy Hanson called, also Pr. Campo Reale to take leave as he is transferred to Washington. Mr Oliphant, Mr Whitaker and Count Pisani also called. Had my usual school for Emily and Jerry at 6. We dined quite alone us 4 and played dominoes in the evening. Tuesday 23rd March. Finished my letters for the first time which took me nearly all the morning. Mr Sartoris arrived from his journey in Syria. Snow storms all day. Read Mme Lebrun's 2 memoirs. Mr Basily called and Mr and Aimée d'Ehrenhoff. I had a long talk with Aimée settling her wedding day with her. Jerry and Emily lessons. Mr and Mrs Lascelles, Mrs and Capt. Jolliffe, Mr and Mrs Washington and Hobart Pasha and his wife dined with us. In the evening all the chancery came up and Corti came also. ' Wife of F.C. Lascelles, British consul general at Sofia.

2

Souvenirs de Madame Vigée Lebrun, Paris 1880.

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Wednesday 24th March. It began by being fine but snow storms came on and in the afternoon we had a settled snow storm which lasted all night. I had my painting lesson. Little Kathleen Hanson came and I began her portrait besides placing on the large canvass the figure of the Circassian girl. Henry went to the Sultan directly after breakfast and returned about 3 . 1 read in the afternoon and it was such bad weather that no one came. Henry had a meeting with the Corps Diplomatique and in the meanwhile Hobart came from the Court Martial of Kummerau's assassin and he read it to me. It was to condemn him to the galleys for life, the doctor not being sure he was mad. Henry came out from the meeting to hear about it and it appears that when he went back and told some of them there was general indignation and Henry had to get Hobart to say he would have the sentence reconsidered. The Russian government threatened to withdraw their Embassy and all the others said they would take up the matter. Hatzfeldt, Ittersum and the Persian Ambassador came to tea with me and there was much whispering and going to and fro in the matter. Ittersum, Mr Nicolson and Sartoris dined with us and there was dominoes. Thursday 25th March. The garden was white with snow when we got up but a thaw soon set in. Little Kathleen Hanson came and sat to me for her portrait in the morning. We had a great domestic raw in the house as I found the servants had quarreled all round and refused to sit in each other's company. I walked in the garden with Henry in the afternoon. Florence returned for Easter holidays. Friday 26th March. I painted and then went to church at 11 being Good Friday. The snow continued to disappear and the weather to get warmer so I walked in the afternoon in the garden with Henry, Fournier and Capt. Joliffe who came to arrange about our taking a trip in the Antelope tomorrow to Therapia. Arthur Burr dined out and so we were quite alone with Alice. Saturday 27th March. We started off in the carriage about 11 and drove down to Findikh mosque where we found the Antelope barge waiting to take us on board. We also met Baron Ittersum there and took him with us- on board we found Mrs Leveson Gower, Mr Kirklington, Mr Stevens, Mr St John and Mr and Mrs Lascelles. We found the deck cabin gracefully arranged by Mr Joliffe and a good many little improvements, Capt. Joliffe being a much better officer and a man of more taste than the late Cap. (Wingfield). At 12 we started for Therapia and went up the Bosphorus with the most perfect weather and a hot sun, and a feeling of spring. We moored ourselves to the buoy in the bay of Therapia and then lunch. All the officers were invited and we had a splendid banquet which we enjoyed. We then landed and went over the Embassy which we found very dirty and the garden bare of leaves, we

- 247 with difficulty found a few violets. Alice and Florence went down to meet us. We dawdled about looking to things for a couple of hours while the officers employed some of their men to launch our steam launch to be taken to town to be fitted and prepared for summer use. On our way back to town we had tea and coffee and got home just before dark after a very pleasant day. In the evening we had our Requiem practise and were tired and glad to get to bed when it was over. Messenger arrived. Easter Sunday 28 th March. I got up early and went to 8.30 service with Alice. And went again at 11 o'clock, we had a full service chanted Psalms and Anthem. In the afternoon I walked in the garden with Henry and it was nice and warm. Mme Mantilla came to see me in the afternoon and told me that Ittersum wants to marry Hatzfeldt's governess which I had long suspected but that he was afraid to tell me lest I should laugh at him. Had usual Embassy dinner and the Lascelles dined also. Henry was busy with Savas Pasha all the evening. Capt. Swaine and I sang together, Mr Sartoris accompanying us. Monday 29 th March. Mrs Walker gave me a painting lesson and I sketched my Circassian Slave on the canvass but as soon as she was gone I had to go to lie down as I had such a bad headache. We were to have gone to the Palace today but luckily the Sultan put us off till Thursday and so I went to bed being very ill. Tuesday 30 th March. I stayed in bed and read and wrote and devoured Mme de Rémusat's mémoires. I got on the sofa for lunch. The famous horse races came off today at the Sweet Waters. The principal one was Mr St John's poney who won against Hobart Pasha's poney. Alice rode there with Capt. Swaine and came home late. We had a dinner party, the Mantillas, Ct Montgelas, Ct Hatzfeldt, Ittersum, Corti, Marquis Porcinari, Mr Oliphant, Col. and Mrs Wilson, 13 in all. They played dominoes. Alice went to Bartholeyns's private theatricals. Wednesday 31 st March. Sent for Kathleen and painted her portrait which filled up my morning after I had written letters and copied for Henry. After lunch I went out walking with Hill and went to fetch Mme Mantilla to go with us. We went to the jewelers to find some presents to Alice's birthday tomorrow and to have a ring arranged for me to give as wedding present to Amy d'Ehrenhoff. We then walked to the Austrian Embassy to see Countess Dubsky but did not find her in and so I came home and met Mme Fournier at our door who said that she would take Alice on to Marseilles on Wednesday next. Mr Lascelles and Mr St John dined with us and went afterwards to Dorcas Concert. Mr Bowyer Jones also dined a gentleman

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farmer who is seeing the country. When he was gone Henry and I played tête à tête dominoes till bed time. Thursday Is1 April. Alice's 19th birthday. Jerry had to be punished for swearing so we sent him on board the Antelope with a cavass. I had a painting lesson and painted in head of Circassian slave, i.e. Miss Jessie Williams! After lunch I dressed and at 1/4 to 3 Henry, Alice and I drove to Yildiz followed by Mr St John and Sir A. Sandison. We drove right into the garden. At the gate we met Munir Bey and he got into our carriage and we went to a kiosque in the garden where the Sultan expected us. The weather was dull and damp, not actually raining. We found the Sultan in a fur lined coat and with cloth shoes over his boots and he said he had been ailing and complained of neuralgia. The gentlemen smoked and we had some small talk and about 4.30 a goûter was announced and in the next room in a kind of balcony was laid out a lunch on a buffet under the window. H.M. had chairs brought and they only just went into the narrow space. The Sultan sat quite at one end I next him and then Alice, Henry, Mr St John and Sir Alfred. H.M. insisted on himself helping me to everything so I had to eat a good deal more than I wanted. We had a special Circassian dish, smoked and salted turkey, which I did not appreciate. We finished with delicious strawberries of which he helped me twice to my satisfaction. We had tea in gold cups which would not therefore cool. After this refection we returned to the little saloon where there was more small talk. H.M. said when the fine weather came he would give a fête at the Sweet Waters. I told him we would not let him forget it. We spoke of the races and he at once said he would also have races and named Mr St John V. President. He sent for his Circassian ADC and made him show off 2 horses he had and then he let us go home first making Alice a present of a lovely diamond tiara and saying many kind things to her. He gave us 2 huge bouquets of violets and camélias and we were glad to go home. We only got in time to dress for dinner. Mr Sartoris and Mr Leveson Gower dined and his friends Mr Kirklington and Mr Tufnill came in the evening. I and Mr Sartoris played dominoes against Henry and A. Burr and were beaten. Friday 2nd April. Cut out clothes for refugees. We lunched at 1 and 1/4 past Alice Arthur Burr and I walked off to the Spanish legation where we were joined by the Mantillas and then we went to the Tekke at the end of the Grand Rue to see the Dancing Dervishes. We had to wait a little while as we were before time. There were a good many Turks waiting about in the kind of court outside the mosque. A very picturesque place with huge cypresses every here and there and some enclosed Dervishes tombs. As soon as the doors were opened and the crowd had gone in, a Dervish took us in and up a small side stairs into a gallery which like a box at the theatre we had to ourselves.

- 249 We were joined by Mr Bunbury and a friend of his and later Hill and Mme Joubert. After waiting sometimes the Dervishes came in one by one and took up their places after bowing to the Kiblah, last of all came the chief dervish and sat down with his back to the Kiblah on a mat. The others all bowed low and he began a prayer. From the music gallery in the centre over the door a Dervish read aloud and then the music began—a drum and what seemed like a flute and men singing- Suddenly 15 dervishes threw off their cloaks and began to walk round in procession and at a signal began one by one to spin round till 15 were spinning—the chief—standing in his place and another walking in a solemn manner among the spinners. The spinners wore long green dresses very full which inflated with the air and made them look like tops. They held both arms high either over their heads or in a level with it. It made me quite giddy to see them. Twice they stopped suddenly and began again till at last they popped down on the ground and others fetched their cloaks and put them on their shoulders. Then the 2nd in command who had walked in amongst them while spinning stood up and repeated something. The 1st also repeated a prayer—then all the dervishes came up in single file and exchanged kisses with him and then placed themselves on his right exchanging kisses with those who were placed in the rank. The chief bowed and walked solemnly and slowly out and the others followed. It was a most impressive ceremony. We walked home and I was glad of tea and rest as I was so giddy from seeing these good people spin before me. We met Aimée in the street and she came in with us. Mrs Foster called. Tried to make Alice begin her packing but she was very contradictory and unwilling so I left her and came to my room to write lessons with Emily. The Mantillas came in the eveng. Mr Wallace dined. We played dominoes Arthur Burr and I won against Henry and the Marquesa. Great excitement about the elections. The liberals have a majority of 16. Saturday 3rd April. I sent for Kathleen and worked for her portrait all the morning. Alice and Arthur Burr and Aimée d'Ehrenhoff went out riding with Capt. Swaine before our lunch. At 2.30 Henry and I went out driving in the Victoria but found it very cold. We went to the Sweet Waters but found no trace of spring. We got out of the carriage and walked a bit and in the Valley it was a little warmer. Had visits from Mrs Fawcett and had a talk about the robberies that had happened at the consulate and here. Hobart Pasha called having just come from the Sultan whom he found in a dreadful state at the turn of the Election in England and Hobart said he had told him it was a bad look out for Turkey. Montgelas called and did not seem either very happy. I asked him how he would like to see Gladstone in power after all the things he said lately of Austrians. He laughed and said they did not mind

- 250 much but they attached more importance to Lord Harrington's declarations. The evening's telegrams tell us of more liberal sweeps and says English papers talk of a Harrington Granville Gladstone Government. Capt. Swaine dined with us and Mme Livadari, Sr Marchesi, a Delia Torra 1 and Mr Sartoris came and we did the Requiem through. Sunday 4th April. Went to church in the morning and in the afternoon in the garden. The Embassy dined with us and Mrs Lascelles and Count Pisani. Monday 5th April. Alice intended going round the walls but it poured so she had to give it up and we none of us got out. I painted at Kathleen's portrait all the morning and in the afternoon I did the background and only left it to walk round the passage for a little exercise with Henry. Aimée d'Ehrenhoff s fiancé arrived from Sweden. Tuesday 6th April. I got Kathleen to sit again and painted away hard till lunch time. In the middle of lunch I turned quite giddy and I had to have my work and take a turn in the garden and then I was refreshed at 4 o'clock I prepared for the rehearsal of the Requiem which we were going to have. Mr St John, Mr Nicolson and I arranged the piano in the ball room and put chairs in rows and there after tea we sang to a small picked audience of about 15 people. It was much applauded but to our disgust Marchesi the tenor sang badly and put us very much out. We had a little party for Alice, the Mantillas, Mr Hobart, Mrs A. Hanson dined with us. In the evening the gentlemen of the chancery and the Ehrenhoffs came and we had games it being Alice's last night. Mrs Arthur Hanson stayed the night with us. Wednesday 7th April. I got up late and copied Henry's letters to Lord Salisbury in bed and wrote a long letter to Maria to send by Alice. After lunch I sat with Alice talking till tea time when we dressed and Henry, A. Burr and I drove down Alice to Tophane. The Antelope barge was there and took us on board the French ship Provence the Fourniers were going also and a great many people went to see them off, all the corps diplomatique and more beside. We stayed there for more than an hour and then we took leave of Alice handing her over to the c/o Mme Fournier as far as Paris and returned home. Dined alone and played dominoes. Thursday 801 April. Kathleen sat to me and I painted . It had been a lovely warm and calm weather when Alice started yesterday evening but it came on suddenly to blow in the night and a South wind which was not favorable to Alice. We had a small dinner party, viz Mr and Mrs Kerrison 2 ,

1 Unable to identify. Unable to identify.

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Y1r and Mrs W. Hanson, Mrs Lascelles, Mr Wallace, Mr Oliphant and the Hobarts. Friday 9th April. Kathleen came again and Mrs Willy came in to see the progress. It was a lovely day and in the afternoon and after lunch Henry and I drove to Arnavutkoy in the victoria to cal! on the Carathéodorys. We met the Pasha near his house and Henry got out and walked with him. Mme Carathéodory was at home and I paid a visit and then they sent us home by a new route through their garden and over the hills. We found a very bad road and had to get out and walk part of the way. The almond trees we saw were in bloom. The first sign of spring. We did not get home till 6. Mr Prezziosi and Mr Nicolson dined and we played dominoes and Mr N. and I beat the other two. Saturday 10111 April. Kathleen came and we had a last sitting for the portrait and a lesson from Mrs Walker. Mrs Joliffe arrived before luncheon to stay while the Antelope goes to fetch Ad. Sir Beauchamp Seymour from the Dardanelles. Mr Willy and Kathleen stayed also to lunch and Capt. Cooper also came; Mantilla came in and played dominoes and Hatzfeldt and Ittersum dined with us. Sunday 11th April. I went to church in the morning with Mrs Jolliffe. In the afternoon Mme Mantilla came to walk with us in the garden as she had never seen it. Messr Bland and Ashburnham returned from Sofia and Messr Lascelles, Stevens, Sir Alfred [blank] Monday 12th April. I was having a painting lesson in the morning when Ad. Sir Beauchamp Seymour, his flag Lieut. Honorable Lambton and secretary Mr Kirkness arrived. I had the model sitting to me and I finished my lesson and then went to receive our guests. In the afternoon I went out in the chair paying visits and Mrs Jolliffe walked out. In the evening the Hobarts, Mantillas, Capt. Jolliffe, Ct Corti, Mr Oliphant, A. Burr. Tuesday 13th April. The weather was so bad there was not getting out and I was not getting well and so Mrs Jolliffe and I sat and worked and chatted together. Count Hatzfeldt, Savas Pasha, Baron Ittersum, Countess Dubsky, Count Montholon, General Hamley and Mr Wrench. Wednesday 14th April. Today Aimée d'Ehrenhoff was married. I sent Hill to dress her. Henry went to the Legation early as he had to do the part of father to the bridegroom. I went straight to the church in the chair. It was very prettily decorated with spring flowers. I went out of mourning for the occasion and wore a white mantilla on my head fastened with diamond pins. We had to sit and wait some time before the bridegroom appeared with Henry and his best man. Soon after came the bride and bride's maids the latter about 8 in number dressed in white and blue. Aimée wore under her veil a little

- 252 royal crown of myrtle as in the Swedish fashion and looked very pretty. They were married in the body of the Church and the service was finished at the Communion table. We all went to the legation directly and I took Aimée up to her room where Hill and I arranged her veil for her and then we sent for her husband to take her down to the drawing room to sign the register or civil marriage. Trays of sweets and champagne were handed and after the suitable congratulations we all left and returned home. The happy pair were to leave at 5 by steamer to Athens. In the afternoon I walked in the garden with Mrs Jolliffe. Henry took the Admiral to visit the Sultan. We had a large dinner in the evening of Mrs A. Hanson (who slept here and at the last moment was not well enough), M. and Mme Onou, Mr and Mrs Foster, Capt. Fiztgerald, M. and Mme Condouriotis, the Persian Ambassador. Thursday 15-1 April. Mrs Arthur left after breakfast. Though I had a headache I got up and sat chatting and working with Mrs Lascelles. After lunch the Admiral, Mr Lambton and Mr Kirkness left us to return to Malta going as they came in the Antelope as far as the Dardanelles. It was at last fine enough to sit out in the garden and take tea there and receive visitors there. Mrs Lascelles and Mrs Jolliffe and I sat out some time. And it was very pleasant although there were very little shade as the chestnut trees only began to burst into leaf. Quiet evening alone. Friday 16th April. Mrs Jolliffe and I still feeling CD stayed in bed till lunch, sat out and had tea in the garden and had visits from Blacque Bey, Hatzfeldt and Mme Mantilla. Mr Nicolson, Mr Bland and Mr Lascelles dined with us and directly after dinner we were alarmed with a cry of "yangin var" and we saw flames which seemed to be quite near. We tried to get up on the roof to see but could not do so. The sparks went up to the sky like fire works . Arthur Burr went out to see about it and came back to say it was a house near the jetty which was on fire but that it was not spreading. Countess Corti and Collobiano came in and we played dominoes. Saturday 17th April. I was so ill At last I sent for Doctor Patterson and could do nothing all the morning but sew and chat with Mrs Jolliffe. After lunch Henry and I went to the Hatzfeldts' lawn tennis party but I was too unwell to enjoy it. Henry played a game or two and I sat with the ladies who were assembled to watch the game and take tea Miss Addison 1 presiding. Baron Ittersum's engagement to her seemed to be formally given out today and was a 9 day's wonder. Got home and sat in the garden and had tea with Mrs Jolliffe and Mrs Lascelles and then Patterson came to patch me up. Capt. Swaine and Mr Sartoris dined here and we had our usual practise of the Cherubini Requiem. 1

Unable to identify.

- 253 Sunday 18th April. I stayed in bed till after lunch and then got up and went to sit in the garden and had tea there. Usual Sunday dinner consisting of Mr Lascelles, Sir Alfred, Mr Ashburnham, Mr St John, Mr L. Gower, Mr Stephens, Sartoris, Nicolson, Joliffes (2), A. Burr, Bland and Swaine. Monday 19th April. Mrs Jolliffe left us and returned on board the Antelope. I had my singing lesson of Mme Livadari. Sir J. Pelly1 called after lunch and returned later with his wife while we were sitting in the garden. I wrote letters for tomorrow's post. Tuesday 20th April. At 2 o'clock Henry and I and Mme Mantilla started to go to the Palace, Sir Alfred and Mr Oliphant followed in another carriage. We were received by the Sultan about 3 in one of the 1st floor rooms and first the gentlemen and then us two ladies after a few words, H.M. led us out into the garden and we walked all over the grounds for 2 or 3 hours and went over the Sultan's favorite ricketty bridge. He first sent over poor old Hamdi Bey and then made some one jump on the bridge to make it rock. Hamdi laid down simply on his nose. The Sultan took me by the hand to lead me over. We walked a long way in the grounds and got round to the stables and H.M. had some of his best horses brought out and ridden round a new open air manège he has had made. We stood at the top to see it and it would have been very nice had it not been for the dust which was blown in our faces by a heavy wind. He then took us back to the kiosque where we had to partake of a cold luncheon in the same way as the last time we went there. I sitting next H.M. who helped me himself from the dishes, then Mme Mantilla, Henry, Sandison and Oliphant. Afterwards we sat while the men smoked and talked and then at 6.30 we took our leave. When just outside the door I got hold of Sir Alfred and dragged him back to the Sultan and apologising for my temerity. 1 begged him to recall our friend Said Pasha from Aleppo as he was ill and would die there. I said I knew nothing of politics or the reasons he was at Aleppo but I was fond of the poor man and have my motive for daring so far. H. M. was very keen and promised to lose no time in recalling him. Of course I was well chaffed by the others when I joined them to return home. We got just in time for dinner with little or no appetites. Wednesday 21st April. It was cold and windy weather. Henry and I drove to Hatzfeldt in the afternoon to play tennis with him but it was not very enjoyable as one had clouds of dust into one's eyes every now and then. After we had played he said he wanted to ask us something and he preceeded to unfold a plan for the Corps Diplomatique to give a Concert in aid of the famine stricken people in Turkey in Asia and asked if I could help. We agreed ^ Unable to identify.

- 254 and as at 5 there was a meeting at our Embassy of the Dips on some business and other, Hatzfeldt proposed the scheme and offered the ball room of the German Embassy for the occasion. After their meeting many of them came in to take tea with me and to tell me that it was agreed to call a meeting of the Ladies of the Dips and to form a Committee making me President. Thursday 22nd April. We had a practise of the Magnificat at which Capt. Swaine and Mr Lanzoni 1 and Mme Livadari assisted. We then discussed the projected concert and made a kind of Programme sketch. Friday 23rd April. Mrs Joliffe came to lunch with us. After lunch I had to submit to a couple of hours under the dentist Dorigny. He had hardly finished with me before Henry sent for me to go and plant some trees in the garden. I planted a stone pine in the middle of the plot of grass on the chapel side of the garden and a cedar on the same side nearer the house. Mr St John planted a cedar on the opposite plot to my cedar. We then drove over, Henry, Mrs Jolliffe, Mr Lascelles and I to the Sweet Waters but we got there rather late as most of the Turkish ladies were returning home and we were smothered with the dust of the road. We had to return by 5 in order to have the Concert Committee meeting. I met the Persian Ambassador at the Sweet Waters and begged him to come to the meeting and as it happened it was a good stroke as he was most useful. Ct Hatzfeldt also came and wrote the protocole. It was decided the day should be the 3 rd May. The Greek Easter Monday as it happened and Ct Hatzfeldt would print the programmes, Mme Condouriotis the advertisements, Mokhsin Khan the tickets and each undertook to sell tickets. Besides the above we had Mme Onou, Countess Dubsky, Mrs Heap. It was nearly dinner time when we separated and I was tired. Mr Nicolson dined with us. Sunday 24th April. Mrs Walker gave me a painting lesson. But before it I got into my chair and went to Hobart Pasha's to see after Mrs Hobart of whom the accounts are very unsatisfactory. I found Hobart and Mr Oliphant at breakfast but Mrs Hobart would not see me. Mr Oliphant gave me a full description of his dinner last night with the Sultan. How after a charming evening he was taking leave of H.M. and plunged boldly into the grievance of having to leave Turkey after a year's stay without having obtained his concession for bringing the Jews to settle in Palestine, the Sultan said he had wished it but the Ministers had all been against it at which Oliphant indignantly told H.M. that the Ministers had told him that H.M. alone opposed it! At last Miinir succeeded in separating them as they were both getting hot and in the waiting room Oliphant broke out in abuse of every one and vowed vengeance with his pen. Attempts were made to soothe him and a ' Italian doctor working for the Ottoman Sanitary Board.

- 255 snuff box was brought him from the Sultan which he for some time refused to take and at last stuffed it into his pocket and left the Palace. Capt. Swaine, Mr Sartoris and Ct Hatzfeldt dined with us and afterwards Mme Livadari came and Mme Lanzoni and Delia Torra and Herr Kunert 'to arrange the Concert programme and after we had settled it we practised till late. Sunday 25th April. I went to church in the morning. In the afternoon, Mme Livadari came and I took her with me to the afternoon church service which Mr Washington had arranged with the combined churches of the different English communities in the villages. It was very successful and the Chapel was crammed. We had usual dinner for Embassy consisting of Mr Lasceiles, Mr St John, Mr Leveson Gower, Count Pisani, Mr Oliphant, Mr Stevens, Capt. Swaine, Mr Sartoris, Mr Bland, Sir Alfred Sandison. Monday 26th April. In the morning we went off I, Mr Lasceiles and Mme Livadari to the German embassy to have a rehearsal for the Concert. We were there all the morning and worked hard at arrangements and tried over pieces. The room is a splendid large one and the thing is promising. Countess Dubsky was then tried a piece to play. About 12 we came away and we stopped at Commendinger's the music shop to ask if he had a good piano for hire. I then went to Mme Condouriotis and found she had done nothing about the advertisements and dictated to her what they should be and then went home to lunch. Mrs A. Hanson came to lunch. Not quite fine enough to sit out so had tea indoors. Visit from the Mantillas, Hatzfeldt, Mr St John, Mr Lasceiles, Sir Alfred Sandison dined with us. Dominoes. Tuesday 27th April. In the morning Mr Sartoris came to tell me our programme had been upset by Mr Denant the French Secretary refusing to play in a Trio owing to the Concert being at the German Embassy. I at once sent for Mme Livadari and she sent for a Mr Lucas to see if he could play. I had a painting lesson, Ct Hatzfeldt came to lunch. Afterwards Mme Livadari came and Mr Sartoris to try over the Rubinsteins duets we were to sing at the Concert. Mr Maximoff the Russian dragoman came and wrote out a translation from the Russian words in French as Mme Livadari only sings it in French. Then went out in the garden to walk with Mr Lasceiles and had tea out in the garden. Lady and Miss Sinclair called and Mrs Crawford came to the garden and Mme Mantilla. Mme Mantilla at last made Henry buy me the sapphire ring she had so long tried to make him buy and to give it to me today. Henry, Arthur Burr and I dined alone. After dinner Mr Sartoris came and played dominoes with us. Wednesday 28th April. Mrs A. Hanson came to breakfast. I was busy writing and sending out programmes and tickets for the Concert. After lunch I ' A German musician.

- 256 and Mr Arthur and Sir Alfred Sandison drove over to Stamboul to see the Refugee workshop which we have just opened at an orphanage the other side of the Mosque of St Sophia. There were about 12 women to spin wool and knit socks under the direction of Maria the German woman I had recommended. Coming away we were so hot and thirsty that we stopped to ask the Persian ambassador to give us lemonade. He was in and made us go into the Embassy and gave us cooling drinks and took us to see his wife and then we returned home and sat in the garden and had tea with Mr Foster who called and Ct Collobiano. At 6 Mrs Crawford and Mrs Washington came and we directed programmes to all the English with our compliments. Count and Countess Dubsky, Mr Maximoff and Mr Sartoris dined with us. In the evening, Mr Lucas, Mme Livadari, Hatzfeldt, the Mantillas came and we had rehearsal in our Ball room. In the middle of it Mr Sartoris was sent for by Mr Denant who came to say there had been some mistake and he would be very glad to play at the Concert which we were delighted. We had some amusing scenes with Countess Dubsky who got furious because we wanted her play a trio, she did not approve of but all was smoothed down and the Concert promised well. Thursday 29th April. Mrs Washington and Mrs Crawford came soon after breakfast to finish sending out programmes. Mrs Walker came to give me a painting lesson but I was called away to sing over my Rubinsteins duets with Mme Livadari with Mr Sartoris to accompany. We lunched at 1 and at 1.30 set out at last to go round the walls I and Henry and Capt. and Mrs Jolliffe and Count Collobiano, Sir Alfred, Arthur Burr and Mr St John on horseback. Mrs Lascelles and her boy went to beg Mme Mantilla to go in the carriage with them. It was the first really hot fine day we had had. We rode across the new bridge through the Phanar, the old Greek Quarter under the walls the whole way and on the water's edge, every now and then there were fine old houses. Before we got into Eyiib we turned up following the walls and the old Turkish burying ground. When we got to the Adrianople gate we turned into it and went to the Kariye mosque and there alighted and went in to see the wonderful Italian mosaïques which line the walls of the outer part or portico of the mosque. They are wonderfully preserved and are charming in colour and design and some of the scenes from Scripture History are very beautifully drawn. The monuments are graceful and harmonious. Some of them are damaged but the cupolas of which there are at least 4, the subjects are well preserved and the white wash seems to have preserved them. After examining these mosaics we went on round the walls which are still splendid, in some parts there are still the triple fortifications and the moat. When we got to the Seven Towers we left our horses and got into the steam launch. Henry

- 257 and I, Mrs Lascelles, Mme Mantilla, Arthur, Count Collobiano. The rest rode home. We found the Captain and steward on board and he gave us tea and buttered toast. It was a most lovely hot calm day and the views were lovely and there were many picturesque bits along the walls down by the sea. We found the carriage waiting for us and after leaving Henry at home, Mme Mantilla and I went on to call on Mme Parniss whom we found in and to ask her to see what the French Embassy was going to do about selling concert tickets. I then deposited Mme Mantilla at home and then went home and practised my duets till dinner time with Mme Livadari. Friday 30th April. I was tired and remained in bed till 12.30 when Mme Mantilla arrived and she sat with me while I dressed and she trimmed me a black hat to wear. We lunched at 1 and Mme Mantilla with us and then we drove her and Mrs Lascelles down to the arsenal where our big 10-oared caique was waiting and Captain Swaine and Mr Stevens met us and we rowed up the Golden Horn to the Sweet Waters. It was a very hot day and being Friday every where there were rows of Turkish women sitting by the water's side clothed in every colour of the rainbow. The fish jumped in every direction looking like flying fish. As we got near the Sweet Waters there were larger batches of women and men and small boats and caiques and as the river had got very shallow and our boat was very long it was not very easy to get along. At the Sweet Waters we landed and walked among the carriages to see the Turkish ladies driving. The heat and dust were excessive but we saw some very pretty women. We had to leave early as Henry had to return for a meeting of the Corps Diplomatique at the Embassy. Mrs Lascelles dined with us and after dinner we took her to the German Embassy to the Rehearsal which lasted till past 12 at night. We had a good many tussles with the German Director of the German Choir Herr Kunert and it was rather trying altogether. After we had done all the rehearsal we found that the chandeliers stopped all the sounds and we had to move pianos and further back and try it again and it was much more satisfactory. Went home tired. Saturday 1st May. I got up to breakfast and set to work to copy out the French words of our duet into Mme Livadari's copy and then I went to Mr Sartoris' room to practise it. Went out in the garden and assisted at the planting of a stone pine tree by Henry at the plot of grass in the centre of the South West corner looking over the Golden Horn. Henry went off to Yildiz to see the Sultan. At 4 Mme Livadari and I got Sir Alfred Sandison's carriage and went to the German Embassy where we met Sartoris and practised our duets there for an hour. We had a small dinner party consisting of Hatzfeldt, the

- 258 Mantillas, Mgr Vanutelli 1 , Count Montholon, the Servian Minister (Grouitch) and the Roumanian Charge d'affaires. They played dominoes. Sunday 2nd May. 1 was not very well and did not get up till lunch. Being the Greek Easter Day there was a dreadful noise all the morning of firing guns and squibs and our cow who was tethered out in the garden had a calf borne there and then. Directly after lunch we drove off to the German Embassy to have a General Rehearsal but had to wait a great deal for the Germans who came dropping in 1/2 hour after time. Then were enormous discussions about the positions of the platform pianos etc. with the obstinate Mr Kunert but at last we got things a little settled and got through the rehearsal. But it was past 6 when we left, I exhausted and with a headache and I went straight to bed and left the dinner of 14 to Henry. Monday 3rd May. 1 remained quietly in bed till 11 and then got up. Lunched at 1 and directly after Mme Livadari, Henry and 1 drove to the German Embassy. Although the Concert was not announced till 2.30, we found a great many people had already arrived and soon the room was crammed. We had a small room at the side but it was very full. As soon as the young Princes (the Sultan's son and nephew) arrived at 3, the Concert began with the Children's choir then the Men, then the Children. We had next a solo by Mme Livadari, a duet by Mme Dubsky and Mr Lucas, piano and violoncello and the first part ended with selections from our Cherubini's Requiem, Mme Livadari, myself, Lanzoni and Swaine. The Princes then went away and refreshments were handed round the Concert Room, ices and lemonades. Mme Mantilla took me round up a winding stair where we saw the Turkish ladies, Mme Mokhsin Khan, Mme Hilmi and her niece and her sister and with them was Mrs Tyrell. Hill and Jerry were waiting upon them. They were hidden by a wooden jalousie which we had had stretched across the music gallery that the Turkish ladies should hear without being seen. The 2nd part of the Concert began by Mme Dubsky's piano solo, then came the trio Verequin, Sartoris and Denant, Lanzoni solo followed — a lovely piece by Lassen and then came our dreadful duets which however got through very well and I could then breath easy. The whole finished with the Taunhauser Chorus "Heil Heil" sang by the German men, women and children accompanied by 2 pianos M. and Mme Dethier on the one, Mme Kuhlmann and M. Delia Torra on the other. It was very well done and greatly applauded and encored. Everyone seemed satisfied with our efforts and we got home about 6 glad to rest and dined alone. Henry, Arthur Burr and I played dominoes afterwards.

' Apostolic delegate.

- 259 Tuesday 4th May. Mme Livadari kindly came and helped me to arrange and sort all my music for packing to go to Therapia and I was busy getting things put away and packed. Dr. Patterson came to see us. Mrs Jolliffe came and we sat out with Henry in the garden when a heavy shower suddenly came on and drove us in and we went and had tea in the drawing room. Hatzfeldl and the Mantillas dined with us, a farewell dinner as we go tomorrow to Therapia. Wednesday 5th May. Mrs Arthur Hanson came up to breakfast with us. I had plenty to do finishing my packing and at 12 we started in the carriage. Henry, Arthur and I drove to Dolmabahfe where we thought to find the barge but as it was not there we went on to Tophane where it was and went on board the Antelope and started for a day's cruise. We had hardly got to Scutari when I discovered I had left my ring on the working stand in my room but Capt. Jolliffe kindly sent his coxman back to look for it. We steamed on the Princes' islands and then for want of something to do went to Bulwer's Island and landed. It is a wonderful place, one rows into a narrow creek between dangerous rocks where one finds built down to the water's edge a kind of miniature tumble down Gothic keep. The rooms have still mouldy looking glasses hanging up and there are false shelves with book backs rotting away. From this keep we walked up the hill to the Castle and met a solitary old man who seemed sole inhabitant of the Island. The state of the Castle was lamentable and although only built 15 years ago was almost in ruins having been built of malta stone, the softest that exists and plaister. After wandering about we returned to the landing place where the sailors had made a fire to give us tea but the steward had forgotten to bring the tea all else was there so we returned to the Antelope and had our tea on board and steamed up to Therapia. We anchored in the Bay just at dark and sat down to dinner at 8 and landed at the Embassy about 10. We found the servants settled down and we went to bed. My ring safe in Hill's possession. Thursday 6th May. I spent the morning unpacking and putting things straight. In the middle of it all Henry sent for me and showed me a telegram he had received from Lord Granville saying that the Government proposed to send out Mr Goschen as a special Ambassador and that Henry might have leave and go to England. This was a great blow as I feel sure we shall never return here. Hill informed me that since last night Jerry had not been seen. Hill had told him that as Henry had decided that he was to be a stable boy he must go up to James. Mrs Jolliffe came to see me and we sat in the boudoir over the fire and had tea. In the evening I heard that Jerry was in hiding at the kayik^'s house so I went there and called him and he came out meekly and I told him to follow me. He did so quietly for some time but near the stables his

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courage failed him and he began to cry and try to withdraw. I told him it was no use, that James would be kind to him and dragged him on; as soon as he saw James he was quiet and resigned to his fate. Mr Ashburnham who is staying at the hotel and is taking his leave here, dined with us and we played dominoes. Friday 7th May. Sir Wm and Lady Gregory 1 arrived to breakfast having come from Athens. They are on their honeymoon trip. She is the 2nd wife and a great deal younger than him. He is older than Henry and she is about 21. She is plain but intelligent looking. We walked in the garden to show the G's the place. Henry had another telegram saying Mr Goschen would start about 17th from England and Henry thinks it unlikely we shall return here. Visit from Mrs A. Hanson and a long talk with her about Mrs Willy's goings on and flirtations. I think it looks bad. After luncheon had visits from the Mantillas, Montholon and Collobiano who all came to condole at our departure. We walked with the Gregorys and Sir Alfred Sandison to Kiregburnu and back. Saturday 8th May. Wrote all the morning. Mrs C. Hanson called very early. After her came Mrs Willy and we had a long talk over the affair Mrs Henry spoke to me of. Mrs W. refuted all indignantly and cried a good deal but I gave her a good lecture. She went away before lunch. Old Mrs Hanson came to luncheon with us. Mr Oliphant came to see us to take leave as he positively goes to England on Tuesday having failed to obtain his concession. Visit from the Bilinskys. Took a walk with Henry and Lady Gregory and went through Therapia to the Khedive's garden where we found a party consisting of Antelopes, Mr and Mrs Hanson; Mrs Wharton 2 , Mr Foster, Lady Thomas and her sister Mrs Lacon and friends and the Bartholeyns. They were playing tennis and having tea. We stayed a little while and then came home. I stopped at Petala's to call on Mrs Jolliffe but she was not well and I could not see her so Captain Swaine walked home with me. Sunday 9th May. Had morning service at 10.15. The Antelope sailors sang very well. We had a little rain in the morning which was very welcome for the garden. Mrs A. Hanson came up. Mme Mantilla came up for lunch with us while her husband had gone up to Biiyiikdere to see about the house. It was still cold and were glad of fires. After lunch we walked with Mme Mantilla to the landing place and put her on the steamer. Capt. and Mrs Jolliffe, Mrs Lascelles, Capt. Mann, Mr L. Gower and Sir Alfred Sandison made up our dinner party. Mrs Lascelles slept here.

1

j

An M.P. known for his anti Turkish views. Unable to identify.

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Monday 10th May. Rain and cold. Mrs Henry Hanson came to luncheon and as it cleared up we went and sat in the garden and she read to me copies of the letters written by her and her husband to Mrs Willy which I entirely approved of. Henry took the Gregorys out riding. I sat in the garden and had a visit from Mme de Torcy and had tea there. Tuesday 11th May. Wrote letters and copied for Henry. Post and messenger left. Mrs Walker came to give me a lesson in painting. Emily came and stood for me to sketch in the costume of the Circassian girl. I painted at it almost all day and went and sat in the garden afterwards. It was nice and warm. Wednesday 12th May. At 10 o'clock the Antelope fetched us to take to town. Last night we were playing dominoes and were just going to bed when Henry got a telegram from town saying an Englishman, Mr Parniss while walking with his wife and an English girl in the road to the Sweet Waters had been robbed and dangerously wounded and taken to the French hospital at §i§li. I sent to ask the Washingtons to go down in the Antelope with us to see Parniss and I insisted old Mrs Sandison to go to the bazaars with us. At Kandilli we picked up Mrs Arthur and we landed as soon as we got to town and went in 2 carriages to the Bazaars. Being such a large party and the Ambassadress one of it prices went up tremendously and we could get nothing. Mrs Sandison and I went off to the Armenian shops but the prices of everything were such that we could buy nothing. Liras were asked instead of piastres. We returned to the Bedesten where we bought a few cups and zarjs and joined our party and then returned to the Antelope leaving Mrs A. Hanson to buy what we had pointed out. We lunched and then Henry and the Gregorys started off to drive round the walls and see the Mosaic Mosque at the Adrianople gate. I sat with Mrs Sandison talking and working and my head ached all day. Mrs Arthur came with the purchases which were most satisfactory. At 5 Henry returned and we had tea and steamed up the Bosphorus and got home to dinner pretty tired - Sir Alfred dined with us. Thursday 13th May. I had a fearful headache and did not attempt to get up but remained in the dark. Mrs Jolliffe came to see me to say Henry had insisted her to go out in the grand caique but she could not go. Henry took the Gregorys in the caique to the Simplegades rock at the entrance of the Black Sea. Mrs Hobart came to see me and so I got into the sofa. She was looking fearfully ill and was still too weak to walk quite alone. She said she was going off to England next Tuesday and so we took leave of each other and she rather embarrassed me by ending with " Enid I am very fond of you. I could only say you are very kind!" Mrs Jolliffe came later and sat a bit with me. 1 got up to dinner and got better as the evening went on.

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Friday 14111 M a y . I painted hard all day. Col. V . Baker V . C . dined with us. Saturday 15th M a y . W e started f o r town in the carriage at 10. It was not a very fine day unfortunately and w e were sorry as w e wanted to show o f f the country to the Gregorys. W e drove straight to the photographers and I left the 3 there to be photoed. I went to M m e Mantilla and asked her if she would take me out this afternoon and then I went to the Embassy to settle about the packing where Giovanni was already beginning f o r w e decided to pack every thing and leave it ready as w e are pretty certain not to return here. W e lunched in the Secretaries' mess room with Messrs St John and Leveson Gower. Hatzfeldt came to see us. Henry went o f f with the Gregorys to show them the mosques and the treasury. M m e Mantilla sent the carriage f o r me and then we went together to the French Hospital to see Mrs Parniss. W e sat a long time in the parloir with her hearing the whole story in detail as she was close by him at the time. One man spoke to the coachman of their carriage and threatened him unless he turned his horses and went in the opposite direction and then went up to Parniss and seized his watch chain. In his resisting he threw him down and then Parniss gave up the watch. The thief called out to his 2 companions, " g e l vur" and they rushed on Parniss and stabbed him on each side and then cut his throat. The women all the time were running in an opposite direction and got the carriage and brought it back. Parniss managed to stumble up and they got him into the carriage and got to the guardhouse, gave the alarm and went on to the hospital. T w o men were taken the same night and recognised. W e went from the hospital down to Dolmabah§e to meet the mouche but as w e were too early w e went to call on M m e Kazim and Princess A z i z e . M m e K . received us and as the Princess was in bed from the effects of a miscarriage, w e were taken up to her room. W e went through a broken down house with dirty aspect to an upper f l o o r and w e found the Princess in a lovely room hung with light blue satin in a French bed. She had a pink satin quilt in the middle of which was embroided her name in an elaborate monogram. She had sheets with lace. She wore a white quilted satin jacket and her short hair dyed golden was f l u f f e d out round her head like a halo. W e stayed a f e w minutes and then returned to M m e Kazim's room and then returned to the waterside. W e were not kept long waiting, the launch soon arrived. There was a great excitement at the news that Zarifi w h o had gone to Broussa had been taken by brigands but it turned out afterwards to be

untrue. W e had tea in the launch out of my tea basket. There was a

good deal of talk about the Sultan having gone yesterday to the Selamlik at St Sofia's and after to the Sweet Waters in a caique and ridden home. It is the first time he has been out since A l i Suavi's attempt to put Murad on the

- 263 throne again. We had a dinner party, Pr. Halim Pasha, Mr Condouriotis, Sir A. Sandison, Mr Prezziosi and Mr Ashburnham, Arthur Burr and Gregorys. Hayreddin Pasha was to have come but excused himself at the last moment. Sunday 16th May. Service in the morning and a great many of the Rapid sailors were there the Antelope being away. After lunch the Gregorys, Henry and I went off in the launch to Scutari. It was a lovely day. We landed and went up to the cemetery which was looking beautiful. The Judas trees there were splendid. After walking through we sent the cavass for a carriage; he got one that looked as if it would hold 2 but pretended to 4 we all squeezed in and went up to the Turkish burying ground which is certainly wonderfully curious and weird. The cypresses are thickly planted and at their feet rise the stones that mark the thousands of graves. Many have fallen - in many the graves are open and empty and the stones stand up over it. The wide road through the cemetery was the only route into Asia Minor before the days of rail and Henry said he had set out along that road the first time he set out on his Eastern travels. We walked down to the launch preferring to dismiss our narrow carriage. We made tea on the way home. We remarked with regret how much damage the last winter had done to all Turkish houses and the Turks were evidently too poor to repair them. We had to dine Col. Shouldham, Capt. Mann, Mr Ashburnham, Sir A. Sandison, Mr and Mrs Washington, Lieut. Berkeley of Rapid, Arthur Burr, Gregorys. Monday 17th May. The Gregorys went down to town in the launch to meet Mrs Arthur Hanson and go to the Bazaars. I painted nearly all day, late in the afternoon took a walk with Henry in the garden. Tuesday 18th May. I painted all the morning and Mrs Jolliffe came and saw me also Capt. Swaine and Mrs Sandison. Arthur Burr left us and returned to England by the Varna mail. After lunch Henry and I and the Gregorys went out in the 10-oared caique. We landed for a few minutes at Cubuklu and then reembarked and went to the Sweet Waters. There we landed and sat under a tree and Henry had a nargileh and coffee. It was very hot day. We came back from the Sweet Waters and landed at Beykoz and walked up the avenue and sat under a tree and made out tea. Hobart Pasha came to dine and sleep. Mr Lacy also dined with us and Sir Alfred Sandison. He tells me the Sultan has prepared a most lovely present of diamonds for me but that Henry has sent word that I may not accept it. Wednesday 19th May. Painted in the morning. Mr Foster came to luncheon also Mrs Arthur Hanson. It was fine and hot but a strong South wind. At 3 the Gregorys went off in the steam launch to go to the French mail which takes them to Marseilles and where we had seen them off. Henry and I

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sat in the garden. Before we had been there long Mrs Gerard Leigh 1 and Mr Ogle came to call. Mrs Gerard Leigh arrived in her yacht the Chazalie yesterday morning. While she was with us the new Russian ambassador M. Novikoff came to call with Mr Onou. Two more villainous looking countenances I never saw. Novikoff looked vulgar and ill bred, reste a voir. Goschen will be able to judge! We gave them tea and when all had gone, we went round in the garden with Currie and talked it all over. Henry and I dined quite alone, a very rare thing and played dominoes together. Thursday 20lh May. I and Mrs Jolliffe went down to Kanlica in the steam launch starting at 10.30 to go to the wedding of Talat Efendi's 2 daughter. Mrs A. Hanson arranged that I should go and sent her servant to meet me and show me the house of Talat Efendi. The Sheikh received me at the gate in his flowing Turkish robes and with a green turban round his cap and led us into his curious old painted kiosque with a lovely marble fret work fountain in the middle; in the 3 bow windows were tables laid for dinner.. He called his wife, a comely matron dressed in pink muslin de laine with her black hair hanging down her back in 2 plaits and a pink handkerchief round her head. She led us to an upper chamber where we had coffee, sweets and cigarettes handed us but we were very much in want of an interpreter. After making some remarks in broken Turkish and by signs the women said they would bring a terciiman but she came and chattered Greek which I understood not a word. At last a handsome girl dressed a la franka in pink and green, a girl with splendid dark eyes and hair volunteered a little English and we were getting on when all the Hanson family arrived and they settled the question as they could all talk Greek. For some time we were taken about from room to room to sit a while in each and after some time the bride made her appearance. She wore a red velvet dress all thickly embroidered with gold like a diplomatic uniform, and had on her head a lot of diamonds—as many as could be heaped on. A long white veil hung down behind striped with gold and she had long strings of gold hanging in bunches from behind each ear down to her knees. The weight of the jewels made it difficult for her to hold her head naturally. Her [hair] was put on the top of her head and only one long curl hung down and mingled with the strings of gold. Unfortunately the gelin or bride was spoilt by the dreadful way she had been p a i n t e d otherwise she would have been pretty. After sitting and looking and admiring we were taken into the large center room and placed opposite the mother in law—a tremendously fat old woman who sat all of a heap and wore a common stuff dress. At last the bride was conducted in held under the arm by ' A wealthy socialite. 2

A sheikh from the Halved brotherhood.

- 265 2 friends—and she kissed the hands of the mother in law and then took her place on a chair and waited—the mother in law threw some coins over her head as she stooped to kiss her hand and then small money was thrown among the slaves who scrambled for it. After some time the bride was fetched to go and meet the bridegroom and she was conducted to the harem door where with her veil drawn over her face she met him and took his arm and they entered together, all the women in the harem threw their handkerchiefs over their faces—but it was hardly necessary as the poor man was pale and shy and did not dare to lift his eyes from the ground. His name is Ali Bey and he is quite young. The black eunuchs went before the bridal pair clearing the road and shouting—and showed them into a room banging the doors together after them but in about a second they threw open the doors and the bridegroom came out having merely deposited his bride on a chair and made her a salaam- It is the old custom for the bride to have diamonds stuck on her face but her father disapproved of it. When we asked about it they fetched the ornaments and tried to fasten them on the bride but had to give it up. They are plaques of gold prepared on purpose and set with diamonds. They stuck one on her chin, another on her forehead—one on each cheek. All the ladies were dressed in their best with their diamonds—some had large brooches with quantities of small diamonds badly set. They were mostly dressed a la Franka the young ones especially had their hair done up in European manner. There was especially one very pretty young woman in a Parisian light pink dress — and it would have been difficult to find a prettier and more elegant woman anywhere and she had lovely complexion, brown eyes, auburn hair and lovely arms and hands. When we went down to dinner she sat at the table with me and some of the Hansons. The girl who spoke English sat at another with the rest of the party and the mother in law at the other table with her friends. The bride's mother tucked up dress and petticoats and showed an immense expanse of legs but superintended the serving of the dinner. The cook came to the Harem door with the dinner on a round tray on his head and the eunuchs took it from him. The women slaves waited on us very cleverly. The food was good and quite Turkish and we dined well. We had the regular Turkish table, a kind of huge tray just turned up at the edge. After dinner we washed our hands—the slaves held the basins and poured water over our hands and we wiped them with our silver embroidered napkins. One could well understand the necessity of these ablutions after observing the manner in which the mother in law and her friends had eaten with their fingers. The pretty woman in pink led me back to the upper room and after taking coffee I and Mrs Jolliffe took our leave and got into the launch and went down to town to call on Mrs Gerard Leigh on board her yacht Chazalie. We found her at home and

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she gave us some tea which was a comfort after our Turkish repast. We had a thunderstorm on the way down but it cleared before we got to the yacht. We found Lady Virginia Saunders and a Miss Taylour on board. At _ to 4 we set off home. Found Henry in the garden and sat there with him. Mrs and Capt. Jolliffe, Sir A. Sandison dined with us. Mr Bland came in the eveng. Very hot. Friday 21s1 May. The weather changed in the night and it was cold and wet when we got up. I had a busy morning with the servants. I went up to the stables and settled with James about the horses, Jerry during our absence. Mme Livadari came and spent the day. We sang over our Rubinstein duets together. She lunched with us. It poured all day and there was no going out. Lady Sinclair and Miss Sinclair 1 came from town and I left them to discuss business with Henry about this affair between Riistem Pasha and Miss Sinclair. Henry told me afterwards that Riistem has behaved like a scoundrel and that there is some curious mystery as to his past life which he is resolved to clear up. After tea the Sinclair and Mme Livadari returned to town by steamer. Henry took a little walk in the garden but the rain drove us in and we walked in the corridor. We dined quite alone and played dominoes in the evening. It was so cold we were glad of a fire to sit by in the evening. Saturday 22n