Travels with Ted & Ned 0385266812

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A,

legendary years at the helm of

-fter thirty-five

Dame,

the University of Notre

the Reverend

Theodore M. Hesburgh turned away from

his

and

daily obligations as university president

set

his sights on something altogether different: the

freedom and adventure of exotic journeys throughout the world.

On

the heels of his 1990

New

York Times best-

selling autobiography, God. Country. Notre

Father Ted ing,

Whether

around the world on the

it's

an RV, or

2. across the continental divide in

through the wilds of the readers will be

and

a rich, entertain-

and informative account of postretirement

travels.

QE

Hesburgh presents

Dame,

drawn

his intimate

Amazon on

a riverboat,

to Father Ted's adventures

view of retirement

as the

begin-

ning of freedom and the launching of new modes of useful service.

Joining him on his travels Cross priest Father

his fellow

is

Ned Joyce, who,

as

Holy Notre

Dame's Executive Vice President, long served Father Ted's right-hand man. professional relationship

From

and evident friendship

emerge the companionable elements of adventure, an adventure that ers will

want

Making

as

their long

many

fans

a shared

and read-

to share as well.

a clean break

new, Ted and

Ned

between the old and

set their sights

on the new

horizons of an enchanting and color- filled jour-

ney

— from the far reaches of Alaska through the

Panama Canal and

the Strait of Magellan toward

the icy waters off Antarctica.

An

inspiration to

satisfying phase of

all

life,

contemplating a new and

Ted and Ned's message

that approaching retirement

than death.

It

is

is

not a fate worse

can be rewarding and exciting. In

(continued on back flap)

travel; with

TED & NED

Kli^-^^-a-^

fnr^

FRAVEL; W

Ii

t

h

TED & NED ^^ Theodore M. Hesburgh, j^.S.C. Edited by ]erry Reedy

DOUBLEDAY Neui York

London

Toronto

Sydney

Auckland

^f^

PUBLISHED BY DOUBLEDAY

a division of

Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group,

666

Fifth

Doubleday and

Avenue,

New

York,

NY

Inc.

10103

the portrayal of an anchor with a dolphin

are trademarks of Doubleday, a division of

Bantam Doubleday Dell Publishing Group,

Book

Inc.

design by Richard Oriolo

Endpaper maps by AheriDonnell Studios

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Hesburgh, Theodore Martin, 1917Travels with

Ted and Ned

/

Theodore M. Hesburgh

:

edited by

Jerry Reedy. p.

cm.

Includes index. 1.

Hesburgh, Theodore Martin, 1917 travels— 1981-

1.

—

Reedy,

[G465.H485

910.4—dc20

^Journeys.

Jerry.

II.

2.

Voyages and

Title.

1992]

92-26432

GIF ISBN 0-385-26681-2 Copyright

©

1992 by Theodore M. Hesburgh, C.S.C. All Rights Reserved

Printed in the United States of America

November 1992

First

13579

Edition 10

8642

I

CONTENTS -^v

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS INTRODUCTION I.

II.

III.

IV.

V.

OUT WEST LATIN AMERICA

ON THE CARIBBEAN ABOARD THE QE2 AROUND THE WORLD ON THE QE2

viii

ix

1

81

169

179

ANTARCTICA AFTERWORD

311

INDEX

314

273

lb the University of Notre Dame,

a special place, because of the

patronage of a very special Lady. This book

is

dedicated to the Lady,

Notre Dame, and to the place, with love and gratitude for a happy life,

spent here for half a century.

The

year recounted in this book was a year away from Notre

Dame but never that far away, as we encountered wonderful Notre Dame alumni and alumnae everywhere we went, from Alaska to Antarctica.

-

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

JL

my

book began with a

his

travels during

our

first

daily diary

I

dictated describing Ned's and

year of retirement. Dick Conklin, associate

vice president of Notre Dame's University Relations

Dennis Moore

colleague,

staff,

and

his

in Public Relations, gave the transcripts

their excellent editorial critique.

When

1

decided to turn the diaries into a book,

who

of travel writer Jerry Reedy,

Country,

my

Notre Dame,

I

collaborated with

autobiography.

had the help

me on

God,

Deftly wielding his red

pencil, Jerry further streamlined the transcripts, reducing

them

to

about half their original length. For these essential services

and

Jerry.

Hosinski,

1

also

who

owe much

my

to

I

am

truly grateful to Dick,

Dennis,

secretary of thirty-eight years,

Helen

typed the original diaries amid myriad other tasks. Her

successor, Melanie Chapleau, generously took

up the task when Helen

retired.

Books never get published without the unsung work of publishers

and

their supportive

and professional

staffs.

In this case, kudos to Bill

Barry of Doubleday and his associates, especially I

am

also grateful to

my

religious

Mike

lannazzi.

community, the Congregation

of Holy Cross, for making such a wonderful year possible. Both

to

Ned

came back refreshed, renewed, better informed, and very ready go to work again in a different yet challenging context. Finally, my gratitude to Ned Joyce, my companion in all of these

and

I

travels.

Always

deficiencies as

affable

and agreeable, he put up generously with

we deepened

a friendship that

is

now more than

my four

decades old. I

also

thank those

traveled with us.

who

in reality

and through

this

book have

INTRODUCTION -^v

/"UN JL his

is

obviously a book about travel and two seventy-year-old Holy

who

Cross priests

did the traveling.

It

was the way we chose to begin our

retirement after working together for thirty-five years as president and executive vice president of the University of Notre us

Dame. Our friends

call

Ted and Ned.

We

began in June 1987 by traveling throughout the West and Far

Northwest of the United States in a recreational vehicle or

wiched between

legs of this

motor

two-engine Cessna airplane.

We

trip

flew

RV

Sand-

was a journey to Alaska in a small all

over this enormous state, from

Sitka in the south to Kotzebue, just north of the Arctic Circle.

After a scant week or so back at Notre Dame, our

home

we

base,

were off to Central and South America, from Mexico to Patagonia and

most countries in between. This segment, mostly done by commercial airliner, also

included a month- long, 2,000-mile trip

on the Sodevy Belem,

Brazil,

on the Atlantic coast.

the Evar^eUsta at Puerto Natales

Chilean

We

fjords all the

were back

before sailing

Later, in southern Chile,

on the

Pacific coast

Notre

on the Queen

Dame

in

mid-December

on January

at

Amazon

Ocean, to

we boarded

and cruised the

Notre Dame.

for a

week or

so

EUzabeth 2's Caribbean Christmas cruise,

We

returned in January and then

again immediately to take care of other business,

Ned

the

way to Puerto Montt.

at

earning our passage as chaplains.

Holland,

down

Explorer from Iquitos, Peru, near the Pacific

I

at

The Hague

left

in

We then shipped out together on the QE2

13 for the second time in a month, this time to serve as

IX

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&.

on an around-the-world cmise. When we returned in May, we had sailed for more dian a hundred days and visited some forty countries. The around-the-world cruise on the QE2 was to have been the final segment of our year of travel, but our friends on the Society Explorer's chaplains

Red Ship" decided diey wanted us back as chaplains for their Christmas cruise to Antarctica. So off we went again this time from the Strait of Magellan due south across the Drake Passage. It is 600 miles of "Little

—

the roughest ocean in the world, but once you've completed the passage you're rewarded with

some of the

most glorious (and

world's

iciest)

scenery.

So there

it

marked the

a curious combination of travels that

is:

begirming of our retirement years. Looking back, we can say that

way

great

to begin

what has now

from those jobs that we held

We

for

were long gone and

start retirement.

Father Bill

We

lengthened into almost

it

five years

was a away

such a long time.

far

away

all

told our successors,

Beauchamp, both of

whom

which

year,

Father

good

are

the best

is

way

to

"Monk" Malloy and "Be yourselves

friends,

It's now your show. Do it your way." They took us at our bother them. Hardly a postcard passed back and forth we didn't word, and for the whole year. That was good for them and good for us too.

and

forget us.

We made

at the prospect of the first sabbatical

with joy

years of very

up

front.

all

we had on

service, of always being

year was

daily, old friends

full

and during the

of

new

sights

We

did

We

occasions

of always being

and sounds, new

friends

And

a strong link to the past, especially at our

daily prayers

we

offered together.

We also had

we never

prepared and delivered homilies every day, even

when

happily,

ever had, after long

call,

opportunities for pastoral services along the way, so

useless.

it

and alumni encountered everywhere.

that newness there was

daily Masses

more

demanding

The whole

made almost with

a clean break from the old to the new.

felt

on those

the only listeners were ourselves.

There were wonderful for reading all the

free

swatches of time, especially aboard ship,

good books that enticed

Massie's Peter the Great, as

I

did,

us.

while floating

Imagine reading Robert

down

the

Amazon. There

were hundreds of good conversations that we never had time for during the hustle and bustle of our past

with

all

of our

new

was indeed true of

friends. this

lives,

conversations with each other and

"Never a dull moment"

enchanting year of living

variety of new circumstances.

is

a trite phrase, but

it

and learning in a wide

THEODORE Why did we decide over the world?

The

HESBURGH

M.

to spend our

best answer

first

can give

I

year of retirement traveling is

president and executive vice president, a lot of people asked us

planned to do when we

we planned

often just said that writing. life

of

From those

its

80 in a

behind.

to

hadn't given

do some

it

much

traveling,

what we

thought, so

almost before large

we knew

it,

we

some reading and

casual responses, the travel idea gradually took

And

own.

Interstate

We

retired.

all

that during our final year as

on

a

we were heading west on

motor home with an automobile hooked on

We hadn't a clue as to what was in store for us.

Each night diary form.

While

when he

isn't

somewhat

briefer

my

dictated

I

it is

my

book,

mentioned

which explains why

diary,

my

(Doubleday, 1990),

it

book

is

in

Ned Joyce is very much part of it, even He also kept his own diary,

specifically.

than mine. Because there

to contemplate in

this

is

more about me than

recent autobiography, God, Country, Notre

seems

fitting in this place to say

1

care

Dame

something about

He will blush at the thought, but this book will make more sense if you know something about both of us. Father Ned Joyce was my right-hand man for the entire thirty-five

Ned

Joyce.

years that

I

was president of Notre Dame.

recount, even in cursory fashion,

Dame

all

It

would be impossible to

the great things he did for Notre

during his thirty-five years as executive vice president. Without

him, both the university and

Many

during those years. always there.

I

would have been much diminished.

Ned was

In a very real sense

And up until

at a time, but

I

came and went, but Ned was when we created the position of provost,

vice presidents

1970,

he was always the number two was acting president, the

the anchor of the executive echelon

man

man

in authority.

in charge.

never worried for a

I

moment

When

I

was away, he

traveled a lot, often for

about

how

weeks

the university was

my absence. With Ned Joyce in charge, I knew had nothing to worry about. He was, and is, a man of impeccable moral character, shrewd doing in

I

judgment, rocklike

The

first

time

fidelity, 1

and unfailing dependability.

met Ned Joyce was the day he was ordained, June

1949, the same year

I

became executive

ceremony was over and Ned was on president, Father

young

priests still

way

do for

relatives

Ned and

when he worked

and

The

close friends

blessing,

8,

ordination

to the office of Notre

John Cavanaugh, to give him a

friendship between

days

his

vice president.

Dame's

something

on ordination

day.

The

Father John had started during Ned's student

as Father John's secretary.

XI

I

also

had some business

TRAVELS WITH TED with Father John that day, and

came Ned. met

just as

I

was on

remember being stmck by

I

my way

his vitality

into his office, out

and ebullience

ourselves to each other.

and introduced

in the hallway

NED

&.

1

as

could

we tell

immediately that there was something special about him.

Cavanaugh

me

later told

had been graduated from Notre the

CPA

Ned had majored

that

Dame

exam, worked in the business world

come back

to Notre

months older than

1

Dame was.

in accounting

He had

with high honors.

for five years,

and

passed

then had

He was just three at Notre Dame in 1934-35

to study for the priesthood.

We

had overlapped

and 1936-37, but had not known each other.

On

his return to

not much

different

Notre

Dame

and assigned him

assistant rector of Morrissey Hall

He'd been

at

it

after ordination,

barely

became

go to Arizona, where the climate was

tapped

Ned

to

fill

first

job was

to teach theology.

one semester when Father John Burke, who was

financial vice president at that time,

to

Ned's

than what mine had been. They made him an

in for Burke,

and

sick with nephritis

and had

Cavanaugh immediately

drier.

in a couple of

weeks Ned had

everything running smoothly.

When

Burke came back

Cavanaugh and

come

told

at the

end of the summer,

1

went

to see

him how impressed I had been with the way Ned had

into that department cold

and yet had done such a superb

job.

then recommended to Father John that he send Ned over to Oxford

I

for a

PPE (Philosophy, Political Science, and Economics). That, with his CPA, would put him on an equal footing with the Ph.D.s in the administration, were he to become a permanent member of it after returning from Oxford. The degree would also expose Ned to a lot of things he probably hadn't read when he was studying business and degree in

accounting. Father John took to the idea immediately. I

did,

He

liked

Ned

and he could see that the additional degree would be

him. T) no one's classroom,

made

surprise, all

Ned took Oxford by

kinds of friends, played

Oxford basketball team,

assisted the

storm.

He

as

much

as

beneficial for

excelled in the

on a world championship

famous Father Ronald Knox on

Sundays, and was unofficial chaplain to the American Rhodes Scholars at Oxford.

Among them was John Brademas,

the

man, House Whip, and president of New York

known

people

whom Ned came

to

know

at

fixture

Indiana congress-

University.

Other

well-

Oxford were the author

Robert Massie and the present director of the Library of Congress, Jim

— THEODORE Ned also knew them in Campion Hall. Billington.

Despite

all

the Jesuits at Oxford because he lived with

Ned had

the success and enjoyment

memory was

his fondest

all

HESBURGH

M.

at

Oxford,

suspect

I

Ned had

the basketball championship.

played

high school basketball in South Carolina, and he had looked forward to trying out for the

when he

failed to

Dame

Notre

make

team. His hopes were dashed, though,

One

the cut.

reason,

1

imagine, was that he was

about a year younger than his classmates and had not yet reached his growth. By the time he reached Oxford, of course, he was

He

stood more than six feet

playing

In the

skills,

was

all

and

tall,

he needed to make the All- America team

by the U.S. Air Force. Oxford won, and

make

the team at Notre

on a world championship team

)

They

Dame

all

at

his

Oxford.

of a sudden the fellow

Ned

also

who

found himself

fifteen years earlier

in England.

America we

or rather half blue. (In give blues.

grown.

was Ned's team against another All- America team fielded

finals, it

couldn't

fiilly

combined with

his height,

full

won an Oxford blue,

give varsity letters; in

Oxford they

don't rate basketball at Oxford as highly as cricket or

rowing.

About a

year and a half after

nephritis flared

up again,

Ned

time

this

arrived at Oxford, Father Burke's

We summoned Ned

fatally.

back to

Notre Dame, and he took over the financial vice presidency once more. I'm sure

Ned would have

preferred to stay at

Oxford and

finish his degree,

but good soldier that he's always been, he came back to Notre

went

By the time Cavanaugh appointed me

to work.

so after Ned's return,

Ned Joyce. Not an all-around

I

already

knew whom

first-class fellow,

to be very important because athletic

integrity that

provincial

had

but he

it

also

number two

much

interested

me, but

I

just

athletics.

considered

it

gave national visibility to the university.

department also had a tradition of enforcing academic I

knew Ned would maintain and even

strengthen.

The

to appoint him, of course, because in those days the school

me

that

I

could pick

my

much a formality. Ned and I have worked extraordinarily well together, we balance each other so nicely. That's another way of

so the appointment was pretty

Over the

years

no doubt because

saying we're quite different from

know

for

knew and cared about

was run by the order. But they had already told

own team,

president, a year or

wanted

only was he an extremely capable administrator, and

This was an area that had never

The

I

Dame and

one another. For that reason, those who

us well consider us rather strange

Xlll

boon companions. Ned

is

a

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

Southerner from Spartanburg, South Carolina;

I

am

a Yankee from

am better with words. He is patient and methodical; am impatient and impulsive. He is a good athlete; I have two left feet. And to be completely honest, should New

Syracuse in upstate

He

York.

good with numbers;

is

I

I

I

admit that he has more virtue than

We I

are also characterized by

being the

Ned

liberal,

a label that doesn't conservative

fit

when

it

1.

some

and conservative terms,

in liberal

the conservative. I've always

me

all

comes

felt

that neatly. For example,

that "liberal"

is

think I'm radier

1

Ned, on the other hand, tends to

to values.

take a conservative stance about most things, especially in the area of

Given

finance.

and business background,

his accounting

not

that's

surprising.

Ned also at everything,

likes to take his

and always makes

sure all the

dotted. He's a meticulous planner. right in.

planning.

It's

same way when we

the

long time, thinking about the way he wants

just

assistant

it,

that

I

don't like

made me

I

it,

writing

it

my

speaking

work on a out,

talk for a

making

1

it's

former

said

it

was

admit

freely

I

and

sure

My

once

style,

carefully prepared text,

terribly

i's

jump

to

get impatient with

him up and turning him on."

to speak from a

habit that hasn't

and

talks are more spontaneous.

referring to

only a matter of "standing

and the

are crossed

t's

give talks. He'll

organizing

My

it.

John Wilson, in

looks ten ways

on the other hand, tend

I,

to take financial chances,

like

1

He

time making a decision.

rarely do, a

popular with some of the people in our

public relations area.

But different

as

for thirty-five years

have we had

we

and

are,

Ned and

there's never

I

felt

never disagreed trust

on the

for

1

than

it is

dating

the

when

did disagree 1

policies, procedures,

implicitly,

have to give

compatibility, because

that

on

us. I

Nor

would various

deferred to him.

and

projects,

we

goals or the philosophy of the university'.

one another

me. But

on anything

When we

and we have enormous respect and

admiration for one another. There's nothing

he

closely together

been a bad word between

was wrong about half the time and

1

While we disagreed occasionally on

We

we have worked

a single serious disagreement

consider fundamentally important. decisions,

I,

it's

wouldn't do for him, nor

Ned more than

much more

number one. You

1

just

difficult to

half the credit for our

be the number two

man

normally have to be more accommo-

the fellow you're working with

XIV

is

your boss.

1

knew

that.

THEODORE because

I

worked

HESBURGH

M.

under Father Cavanaugh for

as executive vice president

three years.

could be argued that the reason

It

another so long and so well was that we

much. There's some truth

that for

in this.

When he was traveling,

me.

went anywhere

together. This

Ned and

When

I

was

covered for him.

I

may

travel together for a full year, a lot of

got along with one

I

really weren't

around each other

traveling,

he covered

wasn't often that

It

we

when we decided to wondered how long it would

explain why,

people

be before we couldn't stand each other.

Then

there was the matter of living

Holy Cross community

at

on our own,

away from the

far

how to cook, community is much easier.

Notre Dame. Neither of us knew

much less how to do laundry. Living in the The bell rings and you go down to eat. On Sunday night you toss out your laundry and it comes back clean on Thursday. On this trip, we enjoyed

We were completely on our own. High time, Now the young priests at Notre Dame all know

none of these conveniences.

some undoubtedly

how

said.

cook and do laundry.

to

We

didn't spend as

The RV was

supplied to

much money on this trip as you might think. us by a Notre Dame Trustee, Art Decio, who is

chief executive officer of the Skyline Corporation. For this segment of the

We were guests of Ollie Cunningham

our only real cost was gasoline.

trip,

on the Alaskan segment. He not only accompanied the plane and the pilot. Latin America was

all

us but also supplied

economy-class

air fares,

On

the

earlier,

we

with a friend picking up the cost of the month on the Amazon.

QE2 and worked

the Society Explorer to Antarctica, as

for

I

mentioned

our passage by serving as chaplains each day.

some generous

gifts at

retirement that helped a

lot.

Some might say, what do you do for an encore? words

it

Amazon.

is

Easter Sunday,

We

had

full

and

and a homily each day since we history of the

cabin TVs.

—mostly

crew

Amazon

And

last

Washington

this

night

Filipinos

When we dock

I

Holy Week

—

in

am

We also received

Well, as

aboard the Seaborne

I

write these

Spirit

on the

services for all Christians aboard.

Fort Lauderdale,

left

morning with a replay

we had

lecture

on the

afternoon

on the

and a

this

Mass

special Easter Vigil services for the

at midnight.

Manaus

for a Saturday

this Friday, I'm off to Rio,

New York, and

wedding, and must be in Boston Saturday

evening for a two-day meeting of Harvard's Board of Overseers.

XV

The next

TRAVELS WITH TED day

fly

I

to Johns

Hopkins

NED

&

and then back to Notre

for eye treatment

Dame. annual alumni meetings from

Dame from Manaus New York City to Pocatello,

ten meetings in ten days, plus

travel.

Ned

goes directly back to Notre

for ten days of

Idaho.

He

has

When we returned to the University of Notre Dame after the year of sabbatical,

the library.

we

we both keep

many

new

adjoining offices

no

on the

thirteenth floor of

administrative duties, thank

God, but

very busy at other activities, both at the university

and with

absolutely

other organizations around the world that correlate with our work

here.

turn

settled into

We have

do hope we

I

are pulling our weight,

down many new

invitations

and

1

think

we

are,

because

we

each week, simply because we are

overcommitted and short of time. I

mention these

activities

approaching retirement that

not to brag but to assure

it is

not a

fate

men and women

worse than death. Rather,

it

Ned and I are probably overdoing it, accepting too many new tasks, but we can always retrench when some of the present projects, like mine on the Knight Commission on reforming intercollegiate athletics, are completed. Anyway, we'd much rather be overcommitted than undercommitted. Too many people take retirement too seriously. They shut off the lights, lock the door, and vegetate. Others may drink too many martinis or play too much gin rummy. That isn't retirement; it's quitting while still having much to give, much to enjoy, much to love, much living yet to do. This book, therefore, isn't just about travel, as much fun as travel can be both rewarding and

exciting.

can

a

be.

lifelong

Fundamentally

it's

book about

totally

way of living without coming apart

enjoying, not dreading retirement.

And

ping, at long

We've done

last,

to smell the roses.

XVI

changing one's ordinary,

at the seams.

yes,

it's

It's

a

book about

about stopping

just that.

—

stop-

»

Part

I

^v

Out West

THURSDAY, JUNE

11,

1987

Notre Dame, Indiana

/"UN JLhis Great Adventure, unlike many others, began precisely on time.

We

had planned

to leave the University at 9:15 A.M.

from the

back gate in our Skyline motor home. Around 9:05, Father Ned,

on the Kaddy Kar, a small Chevy behind the

dressed in his coveralls, put the last touches trailerlike rig that

would enable us to

RV. For the next twelve weeks,

pull a

would follow us

it

like a

dingy lifeboat

following a yacht.

At

hundred

9:10, as about a

faithful souls gathered around.

Gene

athletic director, broke a bottle of champagne

Corrigan, Notre Dame's

Then Ned and I gave the RV a blessing, christening it the Lindy, the name of Art Decio's daughter. At 9:15 sharp we climbed in and, with Ned at the wheel, headed for the exit. The smart money at Notre Dame said we wouldn't get past Gary, over our front bumper.

Indiana, about seventy-five miles to the west; so as

held a sign to the window.

A

It said,

university security car,

its

we pulled away

I

"Gary or Bust." siren blaring, preceded us until

we

reached the entrance to the Indiana Toll Road (Interstate 80) and

headed west. Never had two more innocent persons taken to the road in

an RV. Although Ned had been given some instructions by the

Skyline people in nearby Elkhart, twice before and part

knew

why Ned was

I

had seen the vehicle only once or

absolutely nothing about

driving.

Not wanting

prayed the Breviary—out loud so

it

it.

That explains

to be completely useless,

counted

for

both of us.

in I

We decided

TRAVELS WITH TED that

we would make

each morning and

this a regular practice

Whoever

trip.

after-

wasn't driving did the praying.

noon As we continued heading west on throughout the

NED

&

Interstate

80 in

this large

motor home

with our automobile in tow, we hadn't a clue as to what

was in store

for us.

But

as

Gary came and went, we couldn't

congratulating each other. Even

Hammond,

reached

Indiana,

if

disaster

we had

at

resist

were to strike us before we least

proved the skeptics

wrong.

Dame, we learned our

RV

fiiel

The Moline,

full

first

fairly

It

took

our tank, which meant we were

Of course,

the

heavily laden, and we were dragging that

of odds and ends and excess baggage.

night out

Illinois,

his wife,

fill

consumption.

fuel

about the same rate as a small airplane.

was new and

Chevrolet,

and

at

RV

lesson in

first

twenty-two gallons of gasoline to burning

Notre

interstate service station about 125 miles west of

At an

we decided

and checked in

Joyce.

to play

at the

As might be

home

We

safe.

it

pulled into

of our trustee Jerry

Hank

we not only had

expected,

a

wonderful evening with cocktails and dinner but also comfortable beds and a good night's sleep. of

months of goodbyes that

moving. Or maybe

it

I

I

was so fatigued

went

to

bed and

was the Moline

slept ten hours

Or

air.

after the past

the

first

couple

without

full

day of

freedom.

FRIDAY. JUNE Moline,

w. e

had Mass with the Hanks;

when we can pray gave us

what had

for the

12

Illinois

it is

whole family

always a wonderful experience in a friend's

home. Then Joyce

to be the best breakfast we'd have in the next two or

three months. I

began thinking of how the early immigrants picked up their

Conestoga wagons

at Studebaker's in

South Bend back

in the last

century and then traveled west toward St. Louis, where they crossed the Mississippi River and headed out to the

Oregon

Trail.

Here we

were one day out in Moline and already crossing the Mississippi River into Iowa.

We

picked up more fuel before leaving and found that we

had gone through another twenty-two

gallons.

We're averaging about

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

we expect to do better after Lindy is a bit more broken in and we master some of the tricks of economy driving. By the end of the day, we made it across Iowa and decided to try 5.8 miles per gallon, but

our luck at a campground in the Wilson Island Recreation Area near

on the Missouri

the town of Missouri Valley, Iowa,

and beautiful

beautiful place with spacious grounds

River.

river oaks,

It's

a

and our

particular parking place allows us to get out without backing up. This is

a real blessing, as backing up

minutes disconnecting the

We

means having

rig that links us to

hooked up the Lindy's systems

shortly after 5 P.M.

Then

it

was time

spend

to

five to

twenty

the Chevy.

to the water

and

electricity

walk to get the

for a pleasant

kinks out of our legs and have a try at cooking dinner. Fortunately, Joyce

beef as

we

our

Hank

tips

froze

and

rice

what was

solo attempt at a meal.

microwave

for additional

in fact. But dinner,

we

felt

quite confident about

directions said six minutes to

minutes so

had

just

beginning

directions say you can always reset the

once we got

We

Coffee was easier.

the night before,

minutes the beef and rice were

The

to get a little soft.

The

we had

had read up on the microwave

I

rolled along in the afternoon, so

first

defrost, but after fifteen

it

of the meal

left

with green peppers.

to

that's

warm

—

what we did

several times,

properly warmed, was delicious.

it

the water only three times before

was hot enough.

Our next

challenge was the TV, which surprised us by providing

a better picture than

we

get in our offices at Notre

a couple of old reruns until 11:30 P.M.

Dame.

We watched

and then decided to check on

the technology again. To our surprise, the gray water (which, to put it

nicely,

full

is all

tank, so

of the sewage, apart from the solid waste) was almost a

we would have

to

dump

it

in the

morning somewhere

in

the campground where they have a place for this sort of thing. Also,

although we didn't think we were using

much

water,

we had gone

through half of the forty gallons we picked up from Jerry Hank's garden hose. This without any showers and not very either, except dishes.

We

also

much washing

had picked up a gallon of drinking

water.

Now we

were really getting our minds focused, thinking about

important things that had eluded us

and sewage. With

bathroom on the

all

RV

all

of these years, such as water

kinds of ingenuity, neither of us has used the

yet. That's the

only advantage of having to stop

TRAVELS WITH TED so

many

Here we

fiiel.

also solved the mystery of the

RV's

comphcated Japanese model, but wonderful once one learns it. It's surprising how many good FM stations there are

radio, a

how

times for

NED

&

to use

along the way, even though one runs out of range of them rather quickly.

As we well.

We

settled in for

some

rest,

the air conditioning was working

have a dual system, one up front where we drive, and one in

we

the back where

live.

So

good with both systems, even

so

far,

was over 95 degrees today in Iowa. As

though

it

insisted

on taking the bunk over the

usual virtue and generosity, but turns, since

it

cab. This

to get

up there and

most commodious place in the world. However, longer than the

who

bunk

in the back,

It's

almost impossible to

the one over the cab. bags. Tonight

which

than

a couple of inches taller

is

argument.

was a

Our

Ned

was prepared to argue about taking

I

some acrobatics

requires

for sleeping,

in keeping with his

is

not the

turns out that

it

it's

simply too short for Ned,

is

am. So

I

it's

make up

this

terminated the

these bunks, especially

solution was to get a couple of sleeping

bit too

warm

for

We

them.

had thrown

in a

couple of afghans before we began, and they worked just fine as the

We

temperature dropped along the Missouri River.

both were asleep

about three minutes after hitting the pillow. Maybe the nightcap helped.

It's

hard to believe we have survived two days so

SATURDAY, JUNE

far.

13

Missouri Valley, Iowa

N,

me and went

ed was up an hour before

out walking on a nature

path in the woods, where he promptly got breathless just as

van

I

We

for Mass.

was setting up our

and bran

years, but

because

We

on

agreed

Ned had

he seemed to enjoy

many

to them.

We

flakes.

it

it.

back

was his turn to be

a simple breakfast: orange juice,

probably not eaten dry cereal in

Shopping

of the service stations have

also did the usual

arrived

table in the middle of the

concelebrate each day. Today

principal celebrant. coffee,

little

He

lost.

food has been easy,

for

little

commissaries attached

housekeeping chores,

the garbage and cleaning up the van.

The van

with cupboards everywhere, and everything

fifty

is

tidily

like disposing of

almost like a ship,

stacked away so that

THEODORE it

won't

out while we're moving.

fall

HESBURGH

M.

We

have plenty of things to read

and often read to each other from things we

find particularly interest-

Light reading was fun after plowing through a whole series of

ing.

came with the Lindy. It seems every hour we discover something new about this vehicle, which is marvelous in its ingenuity of design. Not a square inch of space is wasted. We were back on the road at nine o'clock and soon afterward crossed into South Dakota. That makes four states in three days, so technical manuals that

we

are

making some

We

progress.

straight stretches to put the

also took advantage of the long

van on cruise control

an hour. That raised our average

fuel

at

consumption

miles a gallon, considerably better than yesterday.

been doing

of the driving, but

all

away from heavy

traffic.

to almost seven

So

far,

Ned

has

be easing into that as we get

Driving on long stretches of interstate

problem, but the Chevy fairly

I'll

about 60 miles

we're pulling can

make

off- road

no

is

maneuvers

complicated.

The weather

has been great so

temperatures mainly in the 80s.

com, which

have passed a few million acres of

gives every indication of being well

high by the Fourth of

one of the

We

with bright sunny skies and

far,

greatest

July.

on

its

way

to knee-

This agricultural land out here has to be

boons of our nation, and the world too, since

we've been feeding the hungry everywhere these past years. We've also

noticed that the people look healthier and more wholesome as one

moves

west.

We

arrived in Sioux Falls,

around 100,000 population,

checked into a Holiday Inn

it

South Dakota, around noon. With is

the largest city in the state.

for the

time.

first

The

chain has given us passes that are good for a year, so to enjoy

an occasional

respite

this

enable us

they'll

from sleeping in the RV. Also, a hotel

brings the added joy of a good hot shower

We've both been out

way once

and a

before.

full-size

bed.

Ned drove

across the

country with his family following his graduation from Notre 1937. In 1950,

when I was

Cavanaugh,

drove as

I

We

president of the

Dame

in

executive vice president under Father John

far as

Aspen, Colorado, to take part in a

seminar with Mortimer Adler and Jacques Barzun on William James's Pragmatism. Father Cavanaugh thought the seminar might be enliv-

ened by having participate.

It

five

of us young priests, mainly theologians,

come

to

at least to drive from Notre

Dame

to

gave us a chance

TRAVELS WITH TED Aspen, when trips

it

was

just

being

bom

NED

&

Those two

as a cultural center.

were the only basis of comparison we have for

We're

this one.

agreed that these interstate highways are infinitely better than what

we drove on back

We

then.

have a good friend and classmate in Sioux

Monsignor

Falls,

Frank Sampson, a retired major general in the paratroopers and former

Chief of Chaplains

for the

very effectively as

my

detachments

at

Army. Until

special adviser

quite recently he was serving

and chaplain

Notre Dame, but now he, too,

Dame. Frank picked us up

at

is

retired

4:30 this afternoon.

house for a drink and then, with a friend of

McEneaney,

to the Elks

Club

for the

We

and Rotary because that

is

where they meet the

a bit different than the University in

New

least

Club

his

Father John

his.

towns

it's

like the Elks

local citizens. That's

in Chicago, the

Century Club

York City, or the Metropolitan or Cosmos in Washington. At

A

twenty people visited our table while we were there.

Dame alumnus who was dinner, but

someone

found out whether

who

from Notre

went to

for dinner. In these smallish

advantageous for the priests to belong to organizations

ROTC

it

Notre

dining at another table wanted to pay for our

else

had already picked up the

was a friend of the two local

tab.

We

priests or

never

someone

recognized us from Notre Dame.

After dinner,

we did

a quick tour of the city.

St.

Joseph's

Cathedral, done in Indiana limestone, overlooks the whole area from a commanding hill. We also saw the falls that give the place its name. They are on the Big Sioux River and stretch out with smaller and smaller waterfalls for a mile or two. The Sioux called it the Winding River because it takes a big S-tum before flowing into the Missouri. After the tour, we visited Father Mac's parish, Christ the King. At the entrance it has a marvelous stained-glass window that was designed by the Notre Dame art department's Bob Leader. As the day came to a close, 1 thought back to when I was praying the Breviary today. 1 thought about how life, the transit from time to eternity, is so often referred to as a journey. As we live, we are constantly getting new insights, surmounting new difficulties, suffering some defeats, and rejoicing in a few victories as the journey continues and we work our way toward God and eternity. One has to

develop a capacity for enjoying surprises, facing

growing in a

lot of little ways,

new

challenges,

and not being discouraged

8

if

some

THEODORE

Anyway,

things aren't always perfect.

and

start retirement,

By that

mean

1

guess

we turned

Just before

had a

I

the way

all

HESBURGH

M.

we don't

home in,

this

an interesting way to

is

get

home.

Frank Sampson called to say that

from Notre Dame. The news was

call

we

really retire until

to heaven. I'd

Mike

Father

sad.

McCafferty, a wonderful young priest and an outstanding professor in

Law School, had

the

died that day.

He

will

be sorely missed.

May he

rest in peace.

SUNDAY, JUNE Sioux

e were

up

at 6:30

A.M. and began a Requiem Mass for Father

Mike McCafferty about seven young and promising Trinity Sunday,

I

14

South Dakota

Fails,

o'clock.

priest filled us

also said a

The thought

few words on the Trinity.

mystery, but one runs out of words very quickly

God

about

on

many

thought

my

surprise

Ned had done I

and

relief,

At

in the driver's seat.

all

a central

my

best,

Dame

the driving. This morning,

found out whether or not

I

could drive this

discovered,

much

that the rig didn't present

much more

difficulty

of Sioux Falls

interstate,

2 P.M.

and soon

I

we reached the Badlands National Park

in the western part of the state

and called

it

a day.

The odometer

really

is

halves by the Missouri River.

give

way

barley,

The

com

belt.

two

states,

Much

divided into nearly equal

of the eastern half

In the western half, the

to rolling hills, grazing land,

and other

river

Falls

over 1,000 since leaving South Bend.

South Dakota

tion of the

to

was quite comfortable

showed that we had traveled about 300 miles since leaving Sioux little

I

I

As we headed out

than driving a car on the

and a

was

years ago.

was high time

it

did

I

it

theologizing

a religion textbook I'd written for Notre

Until today,

contraption.

It's

when

the Father, Son, and Holy Spirit. But

relying heavily

students

of losing such a

both with sadness. Since

grains.

We

and

flat

is

a continua-

land and the

fields

of

com

durum wheat,

crossed the Missouri at Chamberlain.

was the natural highway into

this region

There were ancient Indian

when

it

was

first

opened by

fur trappers.

nally, but

around the middle of the eighteenth century, the Sioux

tribes here origi-

a

TRAVELS WITH TED took over. Ultimately, they were done

in, as

NED

&

were the buffalo, by the

railroads, the hide hunters, fur traders, cattlemen,

and farmers. These

changes led to a number of very unhappy events, such at

Wounded Knee and

Horn.

A

whole culture was fundamentally changed, and the face of

the land changed with

it.

There was plenty of daylight so

massacre

as the

Custer's disastrous defeat at the Little Big

we unhitched the Chevy

left

for the

when we reached

first

the Badlands,

—

home

time since leaving

task that turned out to be, happily, far less daunting than

anticipated

—and

unlike any place

took a drive around.

we had

we had

The Badlands proved to be A guidebook we bought

ever seen before.

provided this description: "Out of the rolling Dakota prairie, rain and

wind and

frost

have carved steep canyons, sharp ridges,

and knobs, providing

a glimpse into the relentless pace of geological

change, for not only has erosion created a

down

bared rocks laid

gullies, spires

new

landscape,

it

has also

sediment during the Oligocene Epoch

as

between 23 and 37 million years ago, revealing the record of the past to us."

The Badlands were once covered by a there was an upthrust of earth and much

salt sea.

After

it

dried up,

flow of waters from rivers

running eastward from the Rockies. These waters washed out the sea sediment that had formed the bottom of the ocean here. At the beginning of the Oligocene the land was a broad marshy plain crossed

by sluggish streams. The Badlands are also a giant boneyard of prehistoric animals, including the

prairie. In

few

brontosaurus. Today this

surrounded by a verdant

the previous century, 60 million buffalo grazed here, and a

The Badlands

got their

name from

literal translation

the early pioneers contained in

is

do.

still

Macosica, the

had

mammoth

phenomenon

250,000-acre geological

making

their

way

the Indians.

of which

many

is

They

called

references to the difficulty they

across the region. So, at least

Badlands were concerned,

them

Land Bad. Accounts of

Indians and whites were

in

where the complete

agreement.

We a scotch,

are

now

sitting

here in our Lindy enjoying

and the anticipation of

a quiet dinner.

outdoor movie about the Badlands. restaurant: Retirement

is

not

all

An

Then

aside before

that bad, but

10

air

I

conditioning,

we'll attend

we head

an

for the

hate the term "golden

THEODORE when we

age." However,

we found out pass to

my

all

that

one

if

HESBURGH

M.

arrived at this, the is

first

of our national parks,

over sixty-five, he or she qualifies for a free

As soon as and Ned and

of the national parks in America.

aversion to "golden age" disappeared,

I

learned this,

I

immediately

applied for and received our free passes.

We

ate tonight at the park restaurant

Indian waitresses.

Then we

—Indian

listened to a lecture

tacos, served

by

which we thought

would be on geology but turned out to be an account of various grasses

on the

prairies.

grass, there

We

now

is

learned that in addition to the native buffalo a Russian grass,

and even golden clover which

blankets the hills in yellow. This was not Ned's idea of a good show,

but

we

we

called

sympathy to the parents and

sisters

did learn a few things. Before retiring for the night,

back to Notre of Father

Dame

to send our

Mike McCafferty.

MONDAY, JUNE

15

Badlands hiational Park, South Dakota

\^ p

at seven

and

breakfast in the RV,

off to a lazy start this

we planned

our housekeeping chores.

We

morning. After Mass and

the day's activities, then plunged into

filled

our fresh water tank, reattached

the Chevy, emptied our waste water, paid our

bill,

and were on the

road by eleven. About three this afternoon, having finished the Breviary for the day,

we reached the Black

Hills of

highest range of mountains east of the Rockies.

Mount

South Dakota, the

The

tallest

peak

is

Harney, at 7,242 feet, the highest spot in the state. But the

best-known mountain here heads of Washington,

is

Mount Rushmore, where

the famous

Jefferson, Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt

have been carved out of the face of the mountain. They are a spectacular sight, pictures.

We

no matter how often you may have seen them

in

learned that the project was authorized by the federal

government and begun by Gutzon Borglum, the son of Norwegian immigrants, in 1927, the same year that Lindburgh flew across the Atlantic.

The head

of Washington was dedicated in 1930. Next

came

Jefferson in 1936, then Lincoln in 1937, and finally Teddy Roosevelt in 1939.

The Black

Hills are so

named because

11

they are covered with dark

TRAVELS WITH TED pine

and the

trees,

crests of the

NED

&

are characterized by large

hills

Among

upthrusts of pink granite in various shapes.

the most spectac-

ular formations are the Needles. These granitelike spires thrust upward

much

like the

ever since in

Rome.

1

Dolomites in northern

Italy.

I

have loved the Dolomites

spent a vacation there in 1938 after

my

first

year of study

have never seen anything resemble them so closely as the

1

Needles here in the Black Hills National Forest and adjacent Custer State Park.

We

then viewed the illuminated Mount

ate out that night,

Rushmore around 9:30 P.M. We have to get off reasonably early in the morning, because we have a fairly long run from here to Cheyenne,

Wyoming,

It may not sound Chevy and these

well over 300 miles away.

—

—

like very

much,

mountain roads, it's a good day's drive. It's very cool here in this wooded park, the kind of weather that makes sleep come easily. So we take but with our 49-foot

rig

plus the

twisting

advantage of that.

TUESDAY, JUNE

16

Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota

e left our

Mount Rushmore campsite about

was a beautiful sunny day, with

a

8:15 A.M. Again,

it

perfect blue sky flecked with

They contrasted nicely with the towering pine-clad hills, most of them capped with stone palisades. For the first hour or so en route to the Wyoming border, we drove the narrowest, hilliest roads we had yet seen. The omnipresent pines grew practically down to the roadside. As we crossed into Wyoming, the land began to change right away. The hills flattened out to rolling prairies that stretched all the

wonderful, pure white cumulus clouds.

way to

to

Cheyenne, the

spend the night.

state capital

We

rolled along.

The

then the grass-covered rolling

hills

sandwiches

as

went through cattle,

ming its

we in

Outer Mongolia

but few people.

either.

We

and the place where we planned

didn't stop for lunch,

And

trees

summer.

there aren't

made

became fewer and fewer and

reminded

last

but rather

me

We

of the country

we

saw large herds of

many people here

in

Wyo-

thought South Dakota was sparsely populated with

population of 690,000, but

Wyoming

12

has only 450,000.

The

lowest

THEODORE spot in the state

the

RV

over 3,000 feet high.

is

on the

strained

hills

highways through the

capitol at

noticed the altitude as at times to

We

traveling.

40 miles an

drove on single-lane

South Dakota and into the

rest of

Wyoming, then took

rather modest, but

is

We

and dropped back

hour from the 60 we had been

miles or so of

HESBURGH

M.

it

has a gold

dome

quite similar to ours

Notre Dame. Though somewhat smaller, the dome made us

We

home.

right at

will

check in

100

first

Cheyenne. The

Interstate 25 into

feel

Holiday Inn here, have a quiet

at a

dinner, and start off early in the morning for Vail, Colorado, where we'll stay at

my

brother Jim's condominium.

By now we've learned go

all

day at 60 or 65 miles per hour. But

—

climbing mountains the other hand,

it

is

We know

a few things about the RV.

at least

not

fully

it is

definitely

it

can

not made for

loaded and pulling a car.

On

a marvelously versatile machine with almost

everything one could possibly need and a few more things besides.

Each day with

it.

it

becomes more comfortable

And

we

as

and we

for us,

get better at driving

it,

are

more

at ease

our gas mileage improves.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE

17

Cheyenne, Wyoming

Jb,verything

has been going so well so

encounter a bad day. This one was

it.

We

far,

we were bound

left

the Holiday Inn in

to

Cheyenne around nine in the morning, gassed up a block away, and headed out on Interstate 25 to Denver. We were through Denver in a breeze, connecting with Interstate 70, which runs straight out to Vail. About twenty miles out of Denver on that first long climb up to Idaho Springs, we were laboring along at about 25 miles an hour when suddenly, pow! us. off.

It

sounded

like a giant firecracker

had gone

off beneath

The engine stopped. The power brakes and power steering went Luckily, we had enough forward speed to pull over and get out of

the way of the three lanes of just barely.

No

traffic

sooner had we made

climbing that it

hill

to the shoulder

—but

behind us

than we simply

Now what to do? We had discussed the wisdom in Chevy behind us, but now it became our lifeboat. As shot by, we unhooked it from the wounded RV. Then Ned

stopped rolling. dragging that the

traffic

drove

it

uphill to the nearest cutoff,

13

where he dialed the

AAA

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&.

number. But nothing happened. The 800 numbers we had with us were good only in lUinois and Indiana. And Ned had left his glasses back in the RV, so he couldn't check the phone book

AAA in

for the

Colorado. stayed with the RV, and decided to

I

make

the best of the wait.

I

Ann

got a cold beer and a couple of chocolate chip cookies that

Sexton, the wife of our vice president for university relations, had given us as

we

departed.

Parkman's Oregon

Trail

sunny spot

a nice,

I

Then

I

grabbed one of our folding chairs and

and walked up the

sat

down with

hillside a bit.

When

I

found

the beer and the chocolate chip

cookies and started reading. Pretty soon

Ned was back

for his glasses.

On

the phone he managed to reach George Grimes,

RV

his

who

second

trip to

heads Skyline's

Division back in Elkhart, Indiana. George had several things to

check on. As he received each piece of information, he called Ned,

who was still standing in the phone booth. After a few told Ned that he had arranged for a tow truck to come Mountain States Ford Truck Agency could have broken

down many

in Denver.

later,

downward

slopes

We

hills in

the West.

It's

if

we'd broken

of the Eisenhower

six miles

long and

With no power brakes or steering, trouble. The Lord must have been looking

at seven degrees.

we could have been out for

were lucky.

And

we would have been coming out

Tunnel on one of the worst

out from the

miles from the nearest help, but the

truck agency was only twenty-five miles away.

down an hour

We

George

calls,

in real

us.

We

followed the tow truck back to Denver in the Chevy.

When

arrived at the agency, the luck of the Irish was with us again.

The

general manager was Pete O'Meara, whose father and uncle

had

we

graduated from Notre Dame. Also, the garage was open until 9:30 P.M.

If

the problem wasn't serious

we could be out

of there before

closing time.

While they were unhitching the supper, shrimp

P.M.

The

cables,

and

catfish.

We

RV we went off and had

verdict was a lot better than

one

positive

to our generator

it

might have been. Two main

and one negative, going from our

(which

is

an early

arrived back at the agency about 5:30

auxiliary battery

alongside the back door of the

RV) had

been strung on the underside of the body too close to the exhaust pipe.

The exhaust had completely melted

14

the insulation and burned

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

through the clip that was holding the cable to the body.

two wires met, we had a monumental short, which,

When

the

burned

in turn,

out the cutoff circuit on our main ignition wire, thereby causing a total electrical blackout.

Replacing the main ignition wire was simple

enough, but we had to remove both main cables between the battery

and the generator (each was about eight

feet long)

and realign them

along a different route on the other side of the van away from the exhaust.

Then we

put extra insulation on

them and

strung

through another heavily insulated tube. Everybody pitched ing the two of us whenever possible.

mechanics with the the

first

time in a long time,

fingernails.

many

I

when

changed the

oil.

to

me since worked I

For

my

in a gas station

was in high school.

I

By 9:30 P.M. we were broken down

I

finished the day with grease under

That hasn't happened

years ago

includ-

in,

In addition to helping the

Ned and

electrical work,

them

rolling again along

Route 70 where we had

ten and a half hours ago. Having spent several hours

just

reworking the entrails of our machine, a veritable ganglia of wires, we felt

much more

interstates,

is

at

home with

it

now. Interstate 70,

like all of these

a marvelous road, a real feat of engineering as

through the mountains.

Once

again

we found

passes

it

ourselves traveling only

25 miles an hour, but we didn't worry, because we had

now

figured

We keep it in drive until we get down to 30 miles an we put it in second gear. If that gear drops below 15 miles an hour, we put it in low. Actually, because the night was cool, and not sizzling warm like this morning, we never dropped below 20 miles an hour, although we climbed to 11,000 feet to enter the Eisenhower Tunnel and then down to 5,000 and up to 11,000 again coming into out the gears. hour, then

Vail through the Vail Pass. Vail itself

is

about 8,600 feet above sea

level.

Ned drove

the night shift because his eyes are better at night

than mine, and,

if it

about 2:30 A.M.

when we came

must be admitted,

and, miracle of miracles,

out of the pass at Vail.

van lengthwise

brother's condo, parked the it,

he's a better driver too.

1

compartment of my shaving

We

It

found

in the parking lot

was

my

behind

found the key to the condo in the secret kit.

We

stretched out, heaved a sigh of

relief,

and had ourselves a nightcap. Thus ended our

road.

With an

extra day here,

we'll

first

week on the

redo our luggage,

buy our

groceries, reorder the packing (we have about thirty different

15

com-

TRAVELS WITH TED RV

partments in the

to stash things away)

moving on. The odometer miles. In addition, we've done

RV

in the

we've

traveled fairly close to

Up

till

now,

it's

appointments; our

really

first

,

NED

&.

and generally relax before

shows that we've traveled 1,655

a couple of

hundred

in the

Chevy, so

2,000 miles for the week.

been a week of

firsts:

no

serious business

experience of shopping for groceries (over

$100 worth); our driving the RV; getting towed through Denver working several hours with the mechanics; using public showers

traffic;

in the campsites; fixing about half our meals;

washrooms

in the

cooking with the microwave; seeing wild buffalo; running into Notre

Dame

connections almost every day; and, best of

all,

every day

enjoying sunshine, wonderful scenery, leisure, and the carefree spirit of settling into a completely

new

routine and

are gradually arranging our separate duties

way of living. Ned and and collaborating

as

I

we

have in a variety of tasks during the past thirty-five years. At 3:15 A.M., we decided to close out the week and turn

THURSDAY, JUNE

18

Colorado

Vail,

e slept for

in.

more than nine hours, awakening

day, with a marvelous view of the ski runs

to another sunny

down

the mountain.

Skipping breakfast, except for a glass of orange juice and a spot of coffee,

we unhitched the Chevy and the Kaddy Kar

up the van to put outward, so

As to

Ned.

I've

I

we could park

had

We

in a less obtrusive spot.

it

it

so

we could back

parking lot bulged

facing out.

visited here before,

had lunch

The

at a little

I

spent most of the day showing Vail

outdoor cafe facing the chapel where

had Holy Week and Christmas

services with

my

brother.

It's

an

interdenominational chapel shared by the Lutherans, Episcopalians, Presbyterians,

Methodists, Christian Scientists,

beautiful

building,

little

it fits

Vail like a glove.

about the streets on foot, which I

had

my camera

fixed.

batteries in wrong.

magazine for

We

me and

No

is

and Catholics.

We

A

then wandered

the only way you can wander here.

big deal, since

bought a

USA

I

had managed

Today for

then drove the length of

16

to put the

Ned and

Vail,

which

a

Time

stretches

THEODORE out for about

HESBURGH

M.

miles from East Vail to West Vail, with the longest

five

end

golf course in the world, simple fairways,

to end.

named after Gerald Ford, who lives Beaver Creek. the road at Next we ran the Chevy through a car up wash, something it desperately needed. Later in the afternoon, we Everything here seems to be

drove up one of the lateral valleys here for about twenty miles to a

piney lake where we walked a couple of miles to limber up our After

all

that time in the

P.M.

we went back

out.

1

RV we

really

we

and picked one

We

grilled tuna.

legs.

About 8

haven't had a

Notre Dame, except, of course, an occasional

left

chocolate chip cookie.

We

have those in abundance because in

addition to the three sacks that big tin from Joyce

exercise.

to Vail, scouted the restaurants,

had osso buco and Ned had

dessert since

needed the

Ann Sexton gave

us,

we have another

Hank.

Our horarium

is

gradually changing. For years, I've been turning

in at about 3 a.m., but ever since

we

started this trip, we've

been

going to bed between 11 and 12 p.m. and getting up seven or eight hours

later,

both sleeping soundly

van or

in the

in the Holiday Inns

and, curiously, waking up almost every morning within a few minutes of each other. finish

Ned

turned in a bit earlier tonight and

Time magazine. This was the

first

news

FRIDAY, JUNE Vail,

JL oday was another

I've

had

stayed up to

I

in a week.

19

Colorado

relatively quiet day.

I

caught up on the diary,

and Ned put some order into our accounts, checked the maps, and pulled out

some correspondence with

see along the way.

that Francis

I

a couple of people

we hope

to

thought back to our RV's breakdown and realized

Parkman had

his

own problems

as

he moved

this way.

His

horse kept running away at night, and that really put a crimp in his transportation too.

Old

or

modem,

the problems seem to be the

We had a simple lunch of soup town today and then went up 10,500 feet on the mountain in the gondola. Another "golden age" surprise. While the normal fee would same, although in different versions. in

have been $16, we went for free since we're over seventy. This business of being over seventy

is

looking better

17

all

the time.

TRAVELS WITH TED Tonight was

my

turn to cook, so

three poached eggs on top of each

both Ned's plate and mine, a bit of a

I

I

made corned beef hash with

plate.

guess

it

Since

disappeared from

it all

must have been O.K. But

problem with the frying pan afterward because

and

find a scouring pad. Live

learn.

reveille.

weekly Friday

call to

Helen Hosinski,

humid

has been very hot and

RV

my

behind.

And

when making our

a nice cool night here, although

It's

had

I

couldn't

We've packed our

Chevy, leaving our

duffels for a four-day trip in the

1

We're turning in early tonight

because tomorrow will bring a 6 A.M.

so to bed.

NED

&.

secretary,

we learned

first

that

it

South Bend, but then, who ever

in

defended South Bend weather?

SATURDAY, JUNE Vail,

^\^p in the

We

at

20

Colorado

6 A.M., Mass at 6:30, then orange juice and coffee and off

Chevy. Splendid

whole

life,

although

world.

The

first

I've

Springs.

so to

Grand

From

lives,

there

A

down

for

its

we followed the road that

spectacular canyon, stopping from

time to time to watch the tourists go by in their rubber

it

today,

Glen-

river into

another 100 miles or

few miles beyond that, we entered Utah.

parallels the Colorado River and

followed

my

the Vail Valley past the

then along a roaring

we continued on

Instead of taking the best road to Moab,

to believe that this river,

today.

seen a good deal of scenery around the

I've

Junction.

we saw

never seen more dramatic scenery in

part of our trip was

place where Gerald Ford

wood

too mild a word for the sights

is

drove 400 miles and

which was

a

rafts. It's

hundred yards or so wide

hard as

we

was capable of creating the Grand Canyon in

Arizona.

We

left

the river to head south a few miles at Moab, which was a

town founded by Mormons back founders, but they

left

in the 1840s.

when two

of their

There were four

earlier

number were massacred by

the Indians. Today just happened to be the 50th anniversary of Moab.

As we were finishing lunch here, we saw the anniversary parade as it proceeded down the main street. It consisted of people in Western costume riding horses. Model the

rest.

We

T

watched the parade

Fords, the for a

18

fire

department, and

all

few minutes, then started off to

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

Arches National Park, which has within arches ranging in

One

more than two hundred

from a one-foot opening to a span of 291

size

main road north out of Moab

enters the park from the

Colorado River.

it

about a forty-mile round

It's

feet.

across the

with the road

trip,

climbing up to the tops of the mountains, at their highest over 6,000 feet.

There

arches

are a lot of side roads leading to different formations of

—eroded stone

in about as

many

sizes,

shapes, and forms as

one

could possibly imagine. Besides the arches there are palisades and

mesas and buttes, canyons, and balanced rocks. They were formed

when

over 100 million years ago,

As

place.

I've

world was a

mentioned

salt

thousand feet of

ocean. salt,

erosion of this red sandstone took

before, originally, all of this part of the

When

the ocean dried up,

which makes a very poor

left

it

On

base.

sandstone rocks were formed from the sand foundation.

several

top of

it,

With wind,

temperature change, and water, the softer stone began to erode.

Thanks

to this process,

we have

these marvelous formations to admire

today.

TTie sea that covered the region goes back 300 million years, but

the erosion of the current sandstone was about 100 million years in the making. Today, this country would be classified as high desert.

It's

quite barren, mainly pinyon and juniper forest, along with tumbleweed and other sorts of desert bushes. For the past century, it's been ranching and range land. One fact I find curious is that the federal

government owns about 70 percent of the land here and, of course, all of the national parks. The state owns about another 20 percent. The Ute Indians, after whom Utah was named, own about 6 percent. The roughly 5 or 6 percent that is left is owned by private individuals. From Arches National Park, we moved on a few miles south into

Canyonlands National

Park.

To get there, one has to

Horse State Park. The park

is

so

traverse

immense that there

entrances, one from the south, one from the west, and the

entered from the east.

The

center of the park

is

a

canyon

Dead

are three

as

one we deep

as

Grand Canyon, but ten times wider. There is really a canyon within a canyon here. From our lookout, we could see the confluence of the Colorado and Green rivers. Each of those rivers has formed its the

own canyon several hundred feet deep. The land is indescribably rugged and trails

or packhorses.

We

tried to arrange

19

negotiable only by jeep

an airplane

flight

over the

TRAVELS WITH TED whole Canyonlands Park because

it

NED

&.

can best be seen from the

We

even though the lookouts are over 6,000 feet high.

air,

failed to get

an airplane because of the wind conditions over the canyon. Pilots, seeing these conditions, had quit for the day. However, when Ned was

making

inquiries,

he was told about a wonderful boat

which we

trip,

took tonight after dinner. Just beyond the bridge that leads into

Moab, we joined seventy other people on long and twelve feet wide.

a boat about forty-five feet

The people were

seated eight abreast and

about nine rows deep. sound-and-light show that accompanied the ride was one of

The

the most spectacular

I'd

ever seen. First,

we went up the

river for

As soon as it we turned around and came down the river. Accompaon the road we had traversed this morning along the

about an hour in the gathering twilight and dusk.

became nying

dark,

us,

was a truck with a generator and three high-powered

riverside,

searchlights. For the better part of ten miles or so,

we

slowly drifted

with the current while searchlights from the truck played on the fantastic stone walls. difficult to describe

It's

the effect as the lights roamed the 500-

or 600-foot palisades, revealing their colors and textures so dramatically.

The

text

began with Genesis,

through the history of since the

first

humans

"let there

this land, geologically

arrived here from Asia

be light," and went on

and anthropologically,

some 12,000

years ago.

All of this was accompanied by beautiful music, some of

it

Mormon

experience

was

Tabernacle Choir in Salt Lake City.

The whole

from the

truly exhilarating.

Thanks Inn.

to a lucky break

we

room

in the

Ramada

a rodeo

and a

softball

got the last

In addition to several conventions,

tournament were going on, but someone canceled out and we got the room.

It

enough

was 95 degrees here

to

this

afternoon and tonight

wear a sweater or a jacket on the boat. The

it

was chilly

final reflection

of the day: Too bad more Americans can't see the variegated beauty of this wonderful country.

It

took both of us seventy years to see this

comer of Utah, and we still haven't seen the southwest beauty of Bryce and Zion, which we hope to visit later on. southeast

20

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

SUNDAY, JUNE

21

Moab, Utah

woke

e

at 7:30

A.M. to another beautiful day. Standing on the

balcony outside our second-floor room,

I

could see a brown palisade

of rugged rock several hundred feet high and, above that, a flawless

blue sky and, below, some wonderfully big and

fluffy

cottonwood

Off in a comer was the inevitable Pizza Hut. Ned presided

trees.

Mass

morning. After the Gospel, we both

this

and meditated on

it.

As

the trip has progressed,

give homilies as long as or longer than mine.

at

down for a while Ned has begun to

sat

a great

It's

way

to start

the day.

Our

driving today took us almost 300 miles.

First,

we headed

south to Monticello, Utah, and then east past Cortez, Colorado, to

Mesa Verde. The land

flattened out as

we

drove, but to the east

we

could see the snowcapped mountains of Purgatory, in Colorado, where

we

will

be tonight. Shortly after leaving Cortez, we turned into the

Mesa Verde National at the guesthouse,

We

Park.

climbed to about 8,000

and then began our explorations

feet,

had lunch

for the day.

The

mesa, really a flat-topped mountain, extends about twenty or thirty miles.

It is

Canyon and an

intersected in the middle by Cliff

of this called Fewkes Canyon.

On

whole

and on the west

series of cliff dwellings

human

early

offshoot

the east side of this canyon are a side,

a profusion of

settlements going back to the time of Christ. This

is

probably the only national park given over to anthropological, rather

than natural, phenomena.

We cliff

did the east side of

dwellers

Mesa Verde

had inhabited, we had

first.

to go

To get

down

to the place the

over the

cliffside,

negotiating a series of ladders, paths, and tunnels along with endless natural stairs that had been

major

cliff

National Geographic articles

cowboys

in

hewn out

dwellings. Cliff Palace

1888 and

is

is

of the rock. There are two

the classic village one sees in the

on Mesa Verde.

the largest

cliff

It

was discovered by

dwelling in North America.

It

contains 217 rooms and 23 kivas, which are community rooms for

ceremonial purposes.

The

people

who

lived in

Mesa Verde

are called

the Anasazi, a Navajo Indian word meaning "the ancient ones" or

came to this part of the world they moved into the cliff alcoves around

"ancient foreigners." While they

around the time of Christ,

21

TRAVELS WITH TED 500 A.D. and into the one

Cliff Palace

hole in the ground with a

bit of

1300, most of the Anasazi had

Most of them moved south and

mixed with the other

The

wood

formed by a

pit houses,

roofing erected above

area for reasons

left this

east into the

it.

By

unknown.

Rio Grande Valley and

tribes there.

other large dwelling

was Balcony House.

around 1200. Across the canyon,

which were

sees their earlier housing,

NED

&.

we

on the

visited

down

Just getting

east side of the

there was quite a feat, and

getting up was an even greater challenge, since series of ladders, tunnels,

and

west side oi the canyon, where

canyon

We

stairways.

we saw the

it

involved a rigorous

then moved over to the

earliest

and most primitive

of the dwellings that the Anasazi occupied and where they began their slow but steady progression as a civilization.

As

basket making to clay pots they became

and their pots grew

more

artists

they

moved from

beautiful as the generations passed.

They also progressed from hunters and gatherers to farmers who knew how to grow com, beans, and squash. Then, after thirteen centuries here, they passed into oblivion. Perhaps as their

grew they outstripped the land's

ability to

numbers

provide for their needs, or

perhaps their numbers required a political organization that simply

was not needed in the In any event, they

when

they were organized in clans.

moved out en masse and

There may be

time.

earlier days

lost their identity for all

a lesson in all of this for our generation,

which

squandering natural resources and really has no other place to to

beyond our planet.

As

we drove on to EXirango and then north now ensconced in a condominium belong-

the sun was setting,

to Purgatory,

ing to Joe

where we

are

and Jan O'Neill, who

Dame alumnus who, is

is

move

trying to

make

live in

Midland, Texas.

Joe's a

with Vince Duncan, another Notre

Dame

Notre grad,

the ski runs here at Purgatory equal to those at Vail

and Aspen.

22

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

MONDAY, JUNE

22

Purgatory, Colorado

A,

Jter fixing our breakfast,

at the ski runs in this resort.

we went up on the ski lift to get a look The top of the run is 10,000 feet above

sea level and, of course, the scene was spectacular. After

down, we were

on another

off

A

like Dickens's

Two

Tale of

coming

The story of this day is now we are telling the tale

day's adventure.

except

Cities,

of two old mining towns, Silverton and Ouray. Both are north of here,

and

to get to them,

high.

The

pass

on the way

spectacular scenery tains,

even though

Silverton

is

it's

We

called Molas

Lake

much snow on

Pass,

the

with

moun-

late June.

make

through the mountains.

it

seems

like three

the twisting and turning roads and the

all

in

left

America

from Durango.

arrive

"There's a ton of

about: it."

We also found a St.

When

From

again over 11,000 feet high, It

It

the forty-five-mile run, a spectacular passage Patrick's Catholic

Church

you wonder about the name Silverton, here's how

came

mining town.

is

arrived in Silverton in time to see the only narrow-

takes three hours to

purportedly

to Silverton

about thirty miles from here, but

gauge steam-engine train

in Silverton. If

to go over a pass about 11,000 feet

the way and with

all

times as long because of

high climbs.

one has

they

first

found

silver here,

it

they said,

we went over Red Mountain Pass, and into Ouray, which is another classic

there,

— 100

has a population of 700 persons

fewer than

Silverton.

found here in 1875. The most famous mine was mine of Tom Walsh. In a six-year period, from 1896 to 1902, the mine produced what at the time toted up to $24 million worth of gold and silver. Walsh bought his wife the Hope diamond. Silver

the

Camp

was

first

Bird

His daughter, Evelyn Walsh McLean, became a society queen in

Washington, D.C. All

told,

these two towns turned out about a

quarter of a billion dollars in gold and silver during the heyday of

mining

early in the century.

One

major problem the miners con-

fronted was that they couldn't get over the mountains between Ouray

(named

Then across

after a

Ute Indian

chief)

and Silverton, except by mule

along came Colorado pioneer Otto Meats,

Red Mountain

Pass. It cost

who

train.

built a toll road

$10,000 a mile and was called the

Million Dollar Road because Mears used the tailings from the gold

23

TRAVELS WITH TED and

silver

mines in Ouray

The road we

as ballast for the road.

over today was constructed

on

his

NED

&

roadbed and

is

passed

a magnificent feat of

engineering.

After lunch in Ouray, we went out north of the town to the Bachelor-Syracuse mine.

a miner.

donkey

to the

railroad took us '3,200 feet

mine

It

shaft.

There we saw the

We

and gold that was being worked.

miner about how they go about

real

He convinced me is

little

mountain

into the center of the actual vein of silver

from a

A

this business of

that the last thing in the world

was, however, a fascinating

also

I

mining.

would want to be

And

visit.

heard

went the

so

tale

of two old mining towns.

some of the best-known bad guys and other Wild West frequented these parts. Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid hung out in Moab and returned there after their biggest bank robbery. Local historians in Ouray say that at the Lest

forget,

1

characters of the

height of the mining industry here, the miners used to frequent Blair Street every Saturday night

the understatement

and they brought

about

it,

Dodge

City, to

and made the words "wide open" seem

of the year.

The citizenry decided

in Bat Masterson, the

to

do something

famed

sheriff of

tame the town.

TUESDAY, JUNE

23

Purgatory, Colorado

e were up at 6:30 A.M., concelebrated Mass,

road before eight.

one phrase could describe our 300-mile drive

If

from here to Pueblo, journey driving

it

is

into rolling

down through mountain sides. Out

wooded

all

horse country.

hills

We

"changing topography."

snowcapped mountains on both agriculture

and were on the

passes into

began the

Durango with

we soon came saw practically no

of Durango,

and meadowland.

We

day, except a bit of hay harvesting. This seems to be

We

even saw an Arabian horse farm

just outside

of

Durango. Off to the north as we traveled east across southern Colorado, were the Rockies. After Pagosa Springs,

one of the few towns

we passed on the road we traveled today, the Rockies dipped down us and we went over a 10,000-foot pass at Wolf Creek. Most of these passes

are about five miles

24

up and

five

to

miles down.

THEODORE with gorgeous scenery on both topography.

We

HESBURGH

M. sides.

The

changed with the

trees also

began, of course, with ponderosa and ridgepole pines

and then came into the

drier country,

where cottonwoods came up

we got to New Mexico, the drier the landscape became. Trees gave way to great upthrusts of granite and sandstone and sparse forage. Navaho has been replaced by Spanish on the car radio, drums by guitars. 1 must say I along the rushing mountain streams.

The

closer

prefer the latter.

We

arrived in Pueblo around 3 P.M., got badly

showered, dressed up for the

needed haircuts,

Dame

time since leaving Notre

first

almost two weeks ago, and went out to dinner at the country club

with John and Barbara Walsh. John used to be academic vice president at

Notre Dame. He

an old friend of ours and a classmate of Ned's.

is

Both of us were very glad

to see

him

again.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE

24

Pnehlo, Colorado

1

ohn came over

for

Mass

A.M. and breakfast following.

at 7:30

We

then drove west to the new lake created by a reservoir on the Arkansas River outside of Pueblo. Believe

when we

got up, by 8:30

clear blue skies. to

How

it

it

or not, although

it

was a

bit

cloudy

was another bright and sunny day with

long can

we be

John and headed west again

to

so fortunate?

Canon

City,

We

said

goodbye

where there

Benedictine Abbey. Driving along, we could see Pikes Peak about

is

a

fifty

Canon City, we turned off to The Arkansas is one of the five

miles off to the north. Right outside of

Royal Gorge on the Arkansas River. longest rivers in America.

Its

headwaters are at Leadville, Colorado,

about 100 miles north of here.

It

flows through the

mountains and

then across the flatlands into the Mississippi. Eventually

end up in the Gulf of Mexico, about 1,400 miles away.

its

waters

We

took a

miniature train ride on Royal Gorge out to the edge of the gorge,

where we could see the the gorge at

its

largest suspension bridge in the world.

It

spans

narrowest point. Below, you can see the 1,200-foot-

deep canyon that the Arkansas River has carved down through the granite over millions of years.

After the train ride, which took about thirty minutes, we went

25

TRAVELS WITH TED across the gorge

and back

in a gondola.

It's

NED

&.

quite a feeling to swing

out over those 1,200 feet suspended only by a cable.

We

left

the gorge

around 12:30 P.M. and headed west again and then north along the Arkansas River through a whole

with low granite

series of gorges

hills,

spotted by mesquite brush and scrub trees and dotted with huge boulders.

It

was a beautiful

lunch, a sandwich and iced

We

ride.

stopped at Salida for a quick

and then quickly turned north again

tea,

toward Leadville. Just below Leadville, we cut off to Twin Lakes and over Independence Pass, which

snow around,

plus a horrendous

much

over 11,000 feet high with

is

wind coming over the top of the

However, climbing up to Independence Pass beautiful drives in the world. Driving

down

is

pass.

one of the most

the pass was long and not

quite so beautiful, as the road narrows and you have relatively

room between the left.

I

on the

solid rock walls

right

little

and the canyon on the

was glad that we were in the Chevy and not the RV.

We

arrived in

Aspen about

four o'clock.

One

of our Notre

Dame

alumni and a good friend of Father Ned, Nestor Weigand, had offered

Ned

his

headed

condo

here.

off to

visit

Beginning in 1950,

We

showered quickly, put on clean clothes, and

the I

Aspen

Institute

for

Humanistic Studies.

attended several summers here. That

first

one

was a discussion of William James's book Pragmatism, with Mortimer Adler and Jacques Barzun. That was the very beginning of the Aspen seminars, but

I

spent

many

other happy weeks in this delightful place,

mostly conducting seminars on the Great Books for business executives. I

vividly

remember one of those seminars. During

a break,

some

of us, including the Israeli ambassador to London, decided to take a raft trip

down

the Little Colorado River. In the course of the trip the

that the ambassador

raft

and

underwater boulder and we were

we made

it

I

were helping to paddle struck an hurled into the

all

river.

Fortunately,

out safely, and the ambassador jokingly accused

trying to baptize him.

He

the Jordan!" Tragically, however, a of us wasn't so lucky.

me

of

kept yelling, "Only in the Jordan! Only in

man

in a raft

some distance ahead

He drowned.

At the Aspen Institute we ran into Tom and Tanya Cronin. I'd teamed up on a seminar with Tom about ten years earlier. Currently he

is

write

a Distinguished Professor at

Colorado College and continues to

on the American presidency.

26

We

had

a drink out

on the

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

Cronins' veranda, caught up on old times, and had a great discussion

about a wide variety of intellectual subjects. the following day of

my

I

When

I

told

them

that

would be celebrating the forty-fourth anniversary

ordination to the priesthood, they offered their apartment for

the Mass and said they'd invite the

members of the current seminar

mark the occasion.

to help

THURSDAY, JUNE

25

Aspen, Colorado

woke up around

e

suddenly realized that we

my

have celebrated

half of

Mass,

whom

A.M. to another beautiful sunny day and

lost a

day somewhere along the

1

should

drove over to the Cronins' this morning to

About

twenty-five people

were Catholic and the

we had

line.

1

forty-fourth ordination anniversary yesterday in-

We

stead of today. celebrate Mass.

7

came

to the Mass, roughly

rest Protestant

breakfast with the group

and Jewish. After

and then joined them

seminar around 9:15 in the seminar room of the

Institute.

of the day was Machiavelli's The Prince, a book

I

for their

The

subject

had taught over

thirty-five years ago when 1 had led a seminar in jurisprudence in our Law School. Tom Cronin asked one of the members of the seminar,

Celio Franca of Brazil, to conduct the seminar with me.

It

was a

wonderful experience, as seminars always are here, and we went on until after 11:30.

a

We

then drove to town to pick up some sandwiches,

Time magazine, and a new

we changed

broke. Next

There are two

We

into

lateral valleys

drove to the end of the

miles,

ice

container to replace the one

some old clothes

first

for

we

an afternoon hike.

going out to the south from Aspen.

one, a distance of about ten or fifteen

and ate our picnic lunch beside a roaring stream. Then we

drove up the next one, which goes

all

the way to

Maroon Lake.

There, we climbed from about 9,000 to more than 11,000 feet up to Crater Lake. like

I

was on a

The ice.

It

We

lake

was a tough climb and there were times when

stress is

machine, but we made

filled

dirty

in about

felt

an hour.

with pure, cold water from melted snow and

slaked our thirst with

which were

it

I

it,

splashed some more in our faces,

and dripping with perspiration. Then we

the while admiring the

Maroon

Bells, three bell-shaped

27

rested, all

mountains

TRAVELS WITH TED that give the area

its

NED

&

name. The scenery, both going up and coming

down, was absolutely fabulous, particularly the wildflowers that grow in such variegated profusion here.

on we had dinner

Later

outdoor cafe, where we were

in a small

entertained by a group of young musicians from the Aspen Music Institute playing classical music.

day and

They

study and practice during the

at night break up into quartets to entertain the visitors.

FRIDAY, JUNE

26

Aspen, Colorado

Af

Jter Mass and a quick breakfast

ourselves with the

We

RV

and prepare

it

we were

for the

off to Vail to reunite

Utah

leg of our journey.

and

arrived before noon, picked up our laundry

things

several other

we needed, had an outdoor lunch of vealburgers at a German and made our weekly call back to Notre Dame to catch up

restaurant,

on the news with our secretaries, Helen and Pat. I know this must be getting monotonous, but today was another wonderfully sunny and bright day with the temperature ranging from the 70s to the high 80s.

back to

my

brother's

We

faced another problem

When we

condo and unlocked the RV.

the door, the step below the door didn't

We

only one thing: the battery was dead.

wouldn't start either. In

fact,

it

out.

opened

That could mean

tried the generator, but

didn't even turn over. Fortunately

found a good young mechanic on duty

Though he was anxious

come

when we came

to join his

at the Vail

teammates

Amoco

for a baseball

it

we

station.

game they

were playing in Eagle, he delayed his departure to find the cause of our trouble.

He

quickly discovered that

into the generator, so

soon had

it

he blew out the

we weren't

line,

enough

getting

gas

tightened the gasket, and

running again. While he was doing

this,

we had the

battery recharged.

Neither of us

felt like

going out for dinner tonight, so

cooked up some clam chowder, which was now, we've both

lost a little

all

university seems miles

The former

life

I

quickly

needed. By

really

Our

weight and we're happy about that.

hopes are to take off about ten pounds each on

The

we

this trip.

and miles away and, of course,

of hustle and bustle seems miles away too.

28

it is.

When

the

THEODORE mechanic

HESBURGH

M.

at the garage said today that

we simply

recharge our battery,

mail a letter and

it

would take

forty

minutes to

"No problem." Ned went

said,

off to

collected the second batch of laundry.

I

SATURDAY, JUNE Vail,

27

Colorado

on the road about 8 A.M. The RV odometer registered we left Vail. We chalked up 1,402 on the Chevy during week in our run about Utah and southern Colorado. Many of

e were

3,600 miles the past

as

those miles were driven in six national forests: San Juan, San Isabel,

Sangre de Cristo, White River, Uncompahgre, and the Rio Grande.

We

have about

Our

first

five

more coming up

in the next

week or

where we arrived

objective today was Richfield, Utah,

The

so.

Utah is a vast desert, looking very much like the landscape of the moon. There are large rock upthrusts of red sandstone and gray granite. They about 4 P.M.

trip

was

uneventful because central

fairly

stretch out as mesas in every direction from about

one

to five miles

long and about 2,000 feet high. All afternoon as we went across central Utah,

we were climbing about

eight miles to go over the pass

between the mesas and then down another eight miles. In the middle

Ned was

of the afternoon, while

we had our

catching a catnap and

I

was driving,

we were playing was Lena Home singing "Stormy Weather." That brought back ancient memories. I remember dancing to that tune while a senior in high school. I still remember the words. There were practically no cities on our route today. Grand first

rain of the trip. Purely by coincidence, the tape

Junction near the border of Colorado and Salina halfway across Utah

being the exceptions. at a

town

station for

called

We

Green

stopped in the middle of the desert for gas,

River.

The

proprietors said

100 miles in either direction.

We

it

was the only

saw practically no

agriculture along the

way and even the range land looked very poor,

much more than

scrub brush and an occasional stand of miniature

not

pines.

We

didn't see

many

animals, and since there were

no towns,

the only exits from Interstate 70 were ranch exits.

As we neared the edge grazing. Utah has about 1.4

of the desert,

we did

see our

million inhabitants, but

29

I

first

sheep

think most of

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

them must live in and around Salt Lake City and Provo. About 4 P.M., as we neared Richfield, which is across the state to the west of Moab, where we were traveling this time last week, Ned came up with a great idea. Instead of staying here overnight,

and continue on in the Chevy

the gateway to Bryce and Zion national parks?

would be early

easier

morning

and more relaxing

start

on our

why not park

the van

another 111 miles to Cedar City,

for

in the

The

additional miles

Chevy, and we could get an

tour of the two parks.

So

what we

that's

did.

As we continued south, there were more trees and more rolling hills, but again no agriculture, except for a few alfalfa fields that were under irrigation. All day, every hour on the hour, we tried to get some news on the radio, but there simply was no news being broadcast in Utah. Fortunately we had plenty of tapes along. Today it was Johann Strauss's "Tales from the Vienna Woods" and Viennese waltzes. They reminded me of those fifteen years when 1 spent part of each September in Vienna

the

at

International

Atomic Energy

Agency. Around seven o'clock, we pulled into Cedar City, checked

and poured

into a Holiday Inn, showered for the second time today,

Someone once asked Graham Greene what was thing one could carry with him on his trips around the world.

ourselves scotches.

the best

One might

think he'd have said soap or penicillin or a raincoat, but

he said scotch.

1

tend to agree with him.

During dinner

at

peculiar drinking laws,

We

asked the waiter

He

said, "I can't sell

the motel,

we were introduced

which Greene wouldn't have cared

one

we might have some red wine with our

it

to

you here in the restaurant, but

got half a bottle of California Burgundy. for a glass

for

if

the front desk, you can buy a bottle there."

each $1.25

to Utah's

and another

are trying to discourage drinking,

fee to

which

30

I

went

is

bottle.

against the

you go to

to the desk

He then had

open the

if

bit.

beef.

and

to charge us I

guess they

Mormon creed.

— THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

SUNDAY, JUNE Cedar

City,

28

Utah

A.

.nother bright, sunny day. Yesterday

we

527 miles, today

traveled

416, giving us over 1,000 for the last two days. Leaving Cedar City, we went up through Cedar Canyon, which is a most beautiful drive. The canyon climbs very steeply through rugged rock walls studded

with juniper, the

tallest

I

have seen. As

it

and turns upward,

twists

gaining 10,000 feet in a matter of a few miles, you pass one glorious

Cedar City and Cedar Canyon

vista after another. Incidentally,

misnomers because the

trees

Mormons had them mixed trees, let

for

me

say that today

which Ned gave

one

up,

I

not cedars.

sees are junipers, guess. Before

are

The

leave the matter of

1

we went through Dixie National Forest, week we have added four more

a cheer. In the past

national forests to our

list:

Dixie,

Manti-La

Fishlake,

Sal,

and

Arapaho. Many more are yet to come. Bryce

Canyon reminded

foot mesa, but

it's

us of

Mesa Verde.

amphitheater eroded into the side of the mesa. I

mean about

ten miles long and about

course, smaller ones as well.

hundreds of feet

tall.

It's

not really a canyon. Rather,

five

The canyon

is

part of it's

When

1

an 8,000-

an enormous say

enormous,

miles wide. There are, of

filled

with stone monoliths

They resemble everything from the Turkish army sinking ship, to Thor's hammer. As with many

on the march, to a other places we have explored

so far in the West,

all

of this used to be

the bottom of a shallow sea with various layers of sediment laid

millennia after millennia.

and water

in the

What

we're seeing

form of streams,

rain, ice,

now

is

down

the work of time

and snow. The profusion

of forms and figures have been executed in a wide variety of colors

mostly brown, pink, white, and yellow. In the early morning sun, the shapes and colors are mesmerizing. Ebenezer Bryce, one of the earliest settlers, lived

here for

words,

hell of a place to lose a cow!"

"It's a

The

first

names. into

Canyon

One

In his immortal

high plateau we reached today, 10,000 feet up at the

top of Cedar Canyon,

Bryce

five years, trying to raise cattle.

is

is

The plateau that rises to They are both Paiute Indian

called Markagunt.

called Paunsaugunt.

also notices, along these plateaus

and up into the mesa

which Bryce Canyon has encroached, a continual change of trees

from junipers to blue spruce to ponderosa pine to white pine and

31

all

TRAVELS WITH TED varieties of

These

fir.

NED

&

are the tallest trees of their kind that

we have

seen so far and they add a certain grandeur to the whole area. color of the rocks contrasts dramatically with that of the trees.

and whites of the rocks are produced by iron

reds, yellows, purples,

and manganese oxides.

On

the way out of the park,

quick lunch and had

buffalo burgers.

beef hamburgers, but,

all

The

in

They

far.

are a

we stopped

little

the most spectacular

is

I'm running out of adjectives, so you will have to

excuse the overuse of "spectacular" and "unbelievable." This

canyon with sheer monoliths the park

is

a deep

canyon

between them. The centerpiece of all sorts

of seemingly religious

them were named by Frederick young Methodist minister who came here toward the

monumental

Vining Fisher, a

with

filled

a real

is

thousand feet in every

rising several

direction, leaving narrow confines

figures of

for a

tangier than

very tasty.

all,

entrance into Zion National Park

we've seen so

The The

end of the century.

size.

Some

Among

of

many

his

contributions are: the Great

White Throne, Angels Landing, the Organ, the

Pulpit,

and the Altar

of Sacrifice. All of the huge formations are the results of millions of years of

work by the Virgin River. Looking

at

them, one can't help

but feel undersized; some of these rocks are over 3,000 feet high, and the tallest of them, West Temple, soars to a height of 3,805 feet.

many

persons have experienced, from the Paiutes

to Fisher

and thousands of

sense to this place. Before the Paiutes, tribe,

the Anasazi,

who

I

The

lived here

truly a religious

members of the same Indian They left

much

should note that

,

just as their

Mesa we have

cousins in

of the information

regarding the parks comes from useful booklets they entrance.

is

inhabited Mesa Verde lived here.

very suddenly around the year 1300 A.D.

Verde had.

who once

latter-day visitors, there

As

hand out

parks are enormously well organized.

We

at

each

also used

extensively two books published by Reader's Digest: America from the

Road and Our National

Parks: America's Spectacular

Weeping Rock. Water plateau has seeped centuries,

resulting

drive

down through

the sandstone over the course of

reaching the slate strata slanting downward. Since the

water can't penetrate the

slate,

seeps through the sandstone cliff,

Wildemess Heritage.

we parked and climbed to from rain and snow on the top of the

At the end of the canyon

it

travels

on the

a veritable waterfall with

no

along the surface of

and

face of this several- thousand-foot

visible river.

32

it

"

THEODORE As we headed back and some RV.

to Richfield,

flashes of lightning.

campsite in Richfield.

We quickly

HESBURGH

M.

It

It

we encountered

several showers

was raining hard when we got to the

was good to get back to the comforts of the

transferred our gear from the

Chevy, then came happy

hour and a simple stew accompanied by coffee and some of Joyce Hank's cookies. Then, wonder of wonders bedder,

both

I

was in bed by

Ned

ten.

beat

me

by about

five

minutes.

We

slept about nine hours.

MONDAY, JUNE Richfield,

M,

.ass

papacy today, reading,

He

retirement. Paul

"poured out

Timothy

tells

like a libation,"

away. However, Paul

harm and bring him

It

on

is is

Timothy from the second

on the occasion of

that he (Paul) has lived a difficult

sure that the Lord will "keep

to his heavenly

life,

that far

him from

future

kingdom. this

morning.

toasted English muffins, and

cooking bacon in the microwave. Both

we drove

all

glad that thus far he has "finished the race and

performed two more culinary experiments

T)day,

and Paul and the

and that death cannot be

broke out our toaster and made

we

We

tried

successfiil!

where we met Jack Gallivan, the

to Park City,

publisher of the Salt Lake City Tribune. Jack his

was Ned's turn to be Peter

a certain relevance to us

kept the faith." Paul

We

gave a fine homily

as well as Paul's advice to

which has

29

Utah

of Saints Peter and Paul today.

principal celebrant.

and

A.M. go-to-

for this 3

is

a classmate of Ned's,

son Mickey also graduated from Notre Dame. Jack had invited

us to spend a couple of days

his

ranch and we had accepted. From

down

the road halfway to Park City and

on

the interstate exit he took us

forest that we hardly got through The ranch house can accommodate

then up through a beautiful aspen because the road was so narrow.

twenty guests.

It's

by Jack's wife, ours, is

nestled against the hills that rise up to a ridge about

We had cocktails and a wonderful dinner cooked Grace Mary. We talked about our trip, this country of

10,000 feet above

us.

and the interplay between Mormons and the

what the Mormons

days to relax after

all

call

everyone

else. It's

good

"gentiles,"

which

to have a couple of

of our traveling. We're at 8,000 feet and the air

33

TRAVELS WITH TED is

About ten

cool.

o'clock

I

felt

wiped out.

NED

& went

I

bed and

to

slept

ten hours.

TUESDAY, JUNE

30

Park City, Utah

A

number of the Gallivan clan gathered

Mass

for

this

morning.

Then Jack, Mickey, and Jim Ivers III from next door took Ned and me on a jeep tour of the backcountry. We went up a wild road through White Pine Valley behind the house and on up to the ridge leading to Scott Peak, just over 10,000 feet high. Our average speed was about three miles an hour as

we went up through the

These old mining roads were

forest to the tree line.

and used

built in the 1880s

until the

turn of the century to carry supplies up to the mines and bring the ore

down. Not only do they go up rocks and deep cuts

snow and

ice

on

at a steep grade but they also are full of

made by the rushing flow from the spring melt of At times we had to simply leave the road and woods and meadows off to the sides of the road.

top.

rumble through the

Jack and Jim, friends since childhood, roamed this mountain as thirteen-year-olds, staking out

many

of the mines that

we passed on

the way. There are over 1,000 miles of what they call "drifts," holes that the miners

punched

in the side of the

mountain

of ore. Near the top of a ridge, around 10,000 feet,

to find the veins

we came upon

a

marvelous area of wildflowers: Indian paintbrush, blue-purple lupine, miniature yellow buttercups, and a white flower

These were nature's flower beds that this

same spot was under

at their best

six to

and

couldn't identify.

I

it

was hard to believe

ten feet of snow just a few months

ago.

The

story of

mining here began when a young

man named Tom

Keams, who had not even graduated from grammar school but had learned mining, arrived here and a

made

chap named David Keith and Jim

When

Jim was

first

a discovery.

Ivers

I,

He

joined up with

grandfather of Grace Mary.

invited to join the group, he didn't have the

$1,500 capital required. As he was lamenting

this to wife,

Mary's grandmother, she disappeared into the backyard and

back carrying two

tin cans full of

Grace

came

money. Between them, the cans

contained more than $1,500, enabling Jim to make his investment.

34

THEODORE When

HESBURGH

M.

he asked her where she got the money, she

said, "I've

been

picking your pockets for years."

This mine was the King Silver, one of the two big original mines in this area.

times, zinc

Most of the ore here was lead carrying

and manganese.

would be probably more than three

Not tries are

mine

a single

very visible

and down the

Aspen and

is

which

in

Utah,

—namely,

skiing

valleys of Park City

billion dollars.

and tourism. As we jeeped up

and Brighton, we kept thinking of

Vail because the hillsides are dotted with very expensive

for

young

St. Mary's,

Mary Gallivan, the from Ireland,

as

is

which was

there are the less expensive hotels

built in 1884. Jack Gallivan's

in this church, as

mother

were the parents of Grace

Iverses. In the early days,

most of the pastors were

the present one. Father Pat Carley of Tipperary.

were back

at the

went over to Jim's house,

ranch about a few

aspens and pines, for drinks.

where Mickey

itself,

Park City has the oldest Catholic church

skiers.

and father were baptized

We

at today's

operating here today, but two other indus-

condominiums. In Park City

and hostels

and, at

calculated that the miners took about

It is

half a billion dollars' worth of ore from these hills, prices

silver

grilled us

five,

had

a shower,

hundred yards from here

We

and then

in a grove of

returned here to the Gallivan house,

some wonderful hamburgers.

WEDNESDAY, JULY

1

Park City, Utah

A. he same blue sky greeted us today with the same beautiful cumulus clouds drifting across the top of the ridge that

we had

visited yesterday.

a deer with a wonderful six-point set of antlers

Just before Mass,

pranced across the meadow right behind the house. As he delicately picked his way across the meadow, Santa's reindeers

is

I

could understand

about the history of this part of the world.

of the

it

of

called Dancer.

After breakfast. Jack, Grace Mary, Ned, and

a large part of

why one

for a while.

I

had

a long talk

The Holy Cross nuns were

They ran Holy Cross

Wasatch School, orphanages, and

Hospital, St.

several

Mary

elementary and

secondary schools, including Judge High School, the only Catholic secondary school in the diocese. There were well over a hundred

35

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

now there are only two hospital. The state's population

Sisters here at that time, but

grade schools

and

of 1.4 million

a few Sisters at the

includes only about 50,000 Catholics.

Ned was

In the afternoon

who was Ned and went 1

news broadcast

first

was interviewed by

in about

and world

affairs.

and Grace Mary

to dinner with Jack

We came

Adolph's in Park City. our

I

mostly interested in education

Pete Scarlet,

Tonight,

interviewed by John Mooney, the

Lake City Tribune, and

sports editor of the Salt

at

back to the ranch house to watch

two weeks and then went to bed.

THURSDAY, JULY

2

Park City, Utah

had Mass

e

at 9

A.M. with our hosts, then breakfast and more

exploring, this time to a

one of the to

earliest ski

canyon called

Little

developments out here.

each other: the older one, Alta,

at the

Cottonwood. This was It

has two centers close

end of the canyon, and

Snowbird, a brand-new development a mile or so from Alta. Snowbird has the world's largest gondola up the mountainside.

marvelous machine that holds 125 people and

11,000

where

feet,

it

provides a great view.

1

it

It's

a really

goes up beyond

concluded

after today's

up the third canyon that one doesn't have to go to Europe

drive

anymore just as

good

We

if

offer.

These mountains are

not better.

returned to the ranch at 4:30 P.M. to change clothes, finish

the Breviary, and catch up

more Notre Dame thank them success.

Alps

to see the scenes that the

on the

friends, Phil

for helping to

Their son

is

a Notre

diary. Tonight,

and Noreen

make

the

Dame

Trustee.

Purcell.

Campaign

FRIDAY, JULY

dinner with some

for

We

wanted to

Notre

Dame

a

3

Park City, Utah

e

had a

the entrance sides.

We

bit of a is

problem maneuvering out of Jack's ranch because

such a narrow road with birch and aspen trees on both

were on the road by about 10:45 A.M., following Interstate

36

THEODORE we came

HESBURGH

M.

north for a while, drifting into

Wyoming. Then we went Utah and back into Wyoming, where

we met the

seem so

80 to the

east until

to Evanston,

rolling hills that

characteristic of that state.

Along the way, we passed through three national Targhee, and

finally,

forests

—

Bridger,

Teton, which led us to our destination.

was a

It

we came up the Snake River Canyon with high, pine-studded hills on both sides. Below, of course, was the

beautiful drive as

rocky,

Snake River,

still

relentlessly cutting

the river seemed to be

its

of people

full

Along the way, we went over

kayaks.

way through the

who were

slowed to 25 miles an hour again. This

hard to describe

and of

how

About 4

ever.

Our

is

P.M.

we came

and

rafts

where the Lindy

really big sky country.

the sky seems to go out in

Grand Teton National

paddling

a nameless pass

Today

rocks.

into Jackson,

It's

directions forever

all

Wyoming, the center

Park.

was the Biolchini home,

final destination

just outside

the

nearby town of Kelly. Our directions required us to count some gravel driveways and turn into the third one. Unfortunately, a

new driveway

had been added since the directions had been written. The

we pulled up

to, therefore,

We

was the wrong one.

first

house

found the right

house soon enough, but then we couldn't find the key. The Biolchinis wrote that they would attach

we couldn't Finally

find

it,

lamp

at the side of the door, but

despite doing everything but disassemble the lamp.

Ned went back

called around

to a

it

to the house

town and

where we had stopped

found the architect

finally

He had an extra key and brought it out With his help, however, we finally managed

designed

the house.

to us, but

work.

to find the

key.

It

had been

It

didn't take us long to

in the

lamp

were relaxing with a scotch. Purcell

had sent along with

we were

sitting out

all

They

first.

who had

it

didn't

hidden

along.

make

ourselves at

Then I whipped up

—haddock with

us

on the veranda with

coffee

home and soon we Noreen

a dinner that rice.

and

By nine o'clock cigars,

watching

the sun drop behind the silhouetted peaks of the Tetons. This must

sound

and

terribly sybaritic, but after all, this

a vacation. Still,

meal and wash our

it's

is

supposed to be a change

almost too much. Anyway,

dishes, so

we probably

felt

a

we did cook our

little less guilty.

Biolchinis can't be here until about the eleventh of July, but stick around, since this

is

a good base from

37

which

The

we may

to explore

Grand

TRAVELS WITH TED Teton and Yellowstone, in

on the It's

Buffalo Bill

mountains that

hill

the sun

is

the serenity and peace of this place.

looking directly across the

them

so spectacular.

The moon

is

now

rising

trees

and

and a quiet stream meandering

the Gros Ventre. For those interested in altitude,

perched here

peaks,

reddening the sky to the west. We're surrounded by elk

just

us,

Grand Teton

up without warning from a high plateau.

and moose and quaking aspen below

like to look

Museum.

rise straight

That's what makes

NED

Cody, where we would

as well as

difficult to describe

We're on a high

&

at

Grand Tetons

is

7,000 feet and right across

we

are

the way the highest of the

over a mile higher.

SATURDAY, JULY Jackson,

4

Wyoming

JL he Biolchinis called us from Tulsa to welcome us to their house.

They

be here next Friday night, so we will probably stay over

will

Saturday to have a

visit

with them and to thank them for their

hospitality.

Later on, Triangle

Notre

X

we had lunch with John and Mary Kay Turner

Dame

grad.

He and Mary Kay

operate rafting and horseback-

Each day they

riding concessions from the ranch.

down

at their

guest ranch, just a dozen or so miles from here. John's a

the Snake and put another 30

Besides running the ranch. Jack

raft

on horseback

300 people

for trail rides.

the president of the

is

Wyoming

Senate.

we went to visit Grand Teton eighth national park since we began this journey.

After a great hamburger lunch,

National Park, the

Right in the middle of the park

is

Jackson Lake, shaped like a giant

arrowhead. Six miles up the road from the Jackson Lake Lodge

is

Colter Bay Visitors' Center, which has a long beach and a lot of aquatic activity, including swimming.

The

lobby of the lodge looks

directly out across the lake to the Tetons, surely

one of the greatest

views of any hotel in the world. Just below the lodge

church called Sacred Heart Chapel. around the shore of the

lake.

It

We

new

38

visited a little

then followed a one-way road

passes Lay

of which are beautiful and give a

we

Lake and Jenny Lake, both

perspective of the Tetons, since

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

the shores of these lakes go right to where the mountains soar up

another 7,000 or 8,000

feet.

On

a

calm day, the lakes mirror the

jagged peaks and broad canyons of the mountains.

Like several other places we have visited, this region, too, was

covered by a succession of oceans. They receded. Then, about 70 million years ago, the mountains thrust up, carrying with

down

of sedimentation laid

Today you can see the same sandstone sedimentation

Mount Moran can

as

you would 25,000

see glaciers

still

on most of

erosion and formation

them bands

millions of years earlier by the oceans.

is still

at the top of

below the surface here.

feet

these mountains, so the

One

work of

taking place. Another great creator of

much

of the splendor and beauty

which

originates near the south boundary of Yellowstone just north of

here and passes through the

dam

we

see here

is

the Snake River,

end of Jackson Lake and on

at the

through the original canyon that was made by glaciers moving south.

Each

year, for millions of years, the

Snake River carved the canyon

deeper.

Later in the evening Buffalo

we enjoyed

a

cookout on the banks of the

River with the Turners and some friends of theirs from

Houston.

We

cooked an authentic Mexican dinner alongside the

swift-flowing river, then built a big campfire

songs appropriate for the Fourth of July. to

It

and

sat

around singing

was a very pleasant evening

end another great day.

SUNDAY, JULY Wyoming

Jackson,

A,

.fter

Mass was had a phone

They wanted

to instruct

Jacuzzi to work.

I

Ned

5

call

from the Biolchinis in Tulsa.

in the complicated art of getting the

have long been of the opinion that two people

I let Ned worry about the He soon had it running and, appropriately, was the first one to enjoy it. The Jacuzzi, by the way, is out on the deck facing the Tetons. What a place to take a bath! look forward to immersing

shouldn't worry about the same thing, so

Jacuzzi.

I

myself in

it

tomorrow

—

if

we

get back from fishing

Bob Biolchini had told us to be sure to Wildlife Museum, which opened only forty

39

visit

on

time.

the Great

American

days ago. He's the chair-

TRAVELS WITH TED man

we

of the board. There

NED

&

particularly enjoyed

an exhibition of the

moose, bear, mounThe museum also had paintings by George Catlin, Charles Russell, and Herman Herzog. Following our tour of the museum we kept a date to meet Jerry Brady, who had come down from Idaho Springs with his wife, Ricci. wildlife paintings of Carl Rungius, especially the

tain sheep, wolf, elk,

Jerry

and

buffalo.

was Notre Dame's student body president in 1957-58 and

traveled with

TV and

me

to Africa after graduation.

We

cable business.

wonderful

visit,

He now

runs the family

took the Bradys back to the house, had a

then saw them

off.

This evening we put together a meal of turkey stew with carrots

and

We

peas.

couldn't get the microwave in the Biolchinis' kitchen to

work, so we turned on the generator to the Lindy and did the defrosting there, returning to the house for the cooking.

wonderful by reveille

is

stew was

and tasted even better with white wine. Tomorrow

itself,

A.M. John Turner

at 4:30

The

is

going to take us fishing at Lake

Yellowstone.

MONDAY, JULY ]ackson,

jL oday was another day of

6

Wyoming

firsts.

T) be more

4:30 A.M. and that was certainly a

first

on

specific,

this trip. It

we were up was

still

at

dark,

although the outlines of the mountains across the way were beginning to appear in the

predawn

stillness.

We

had a quick breakfast of coffee

and some cinnamon buns we had bought yesterday. Shortly after five,

Triangle

X Ranch

were waiting for

Bunnery

at the

we were on the road and

in

town

arrived at the

about 5:30. John Turner and sons Tote and Mark

us.

We

way north. About seven

got into their carryall and were soon o'clock,

we

arrived at the

on our

marina on Yellow-

stone Lake.

Despite the early hour, a fairly strong wind was whipping across the lake, which

is

nestled in pine-clad

hills.

Lake Yellowstone

20 miles long, with a surface area of 136 square miles.

It's

lake, never going

350

We're told that

above 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and

this

is

is

is

a very cold feet deep.

a good season for cutthroat trout. This

40

about

whole

THEODORE

enormous volcanic explosion many, many

area was the result of an years ago.

The hugh

HESBURGH

M.

resulting caldera

became Yellowstone Lake.

Despite the wind, which kept changing direction every few

we

minutes, and a very clear sky with bright sunlight, the

first

Then

couple of hours.

the

practically froze

began to bite and we forgot

fish

about the coldness. Rather quickly, we caught about thirty cutthroat

On

Ned

trout.

Another dozen or

and

prayed our Breviary for the day, with John Turner joining in

I

so got off the hook.

the way back

approximately on the "Glory be to the Father, the Son, and the Holy

When we

Spirit" responses.

got back to John's ranch, he said he

felt

pretty holy.

About 4:30 valiant lady

P.M.

who

we had Mass

lives

in John's mother's house.

About

here year-round.

Dame

including a young Notre

who

lawyer,

is

a

twenty-five people,

are vacationing here,

attended Mass today and participated with great fervor.

when coming West

She

We had hoped

we would not only see the beauties of the we are getting a good sense of that, for which we are grateful. The people on this ranch, especially the Turners, really seem to care about each other and about their that

land but the beauty of the people, and

guests.

Also, they have a good, healthy spirituality which

very

is

visible as they attend Mass.

There

is still

another

first

to be

catching cutthroat trout for the

cook them

details.

I

fish

and

Then

1

put a good

slice of

also green peppers to give

them some

flavor.

wrapped each whole

fish in

toothpicks. Finally,

wrapped them

I

degree oven for half an hour.

have delicate pink

flesh

not overly fond of

fish

plates.

to

feel

1

squeezed lemon juice into the body

of the fish after they were cleaned.

each

to

we had the temerity

time,

This was such a culinary triumph that

for dinner.

compelled to recount the

in

mentioned today. In addition

first

lemon

Then

I

three strips of bacon held in place by

They

in foil

tasted

and much more

and neither

is

and put them

much

flavor

like

in a 350-

salmon, for they

than brook

trout.

I

am

Ned, but we both cleaned our

To add to the incongruity of the

situation,

1

also

had

rustled

up some baked beans with a few added ingredients. After dinner we went out

on the veranda,

discussed the battle

plans for tomorrow, and had black coffee and cigars before finishing

our prayers for the day together.

I

were really yawning by eight o'clock.

41

hate to admit I

guess

it

it,

but both of us

was the wind, the

lake,

TRAVELS WITH TED the sun, and

of those

all

firsts.

Grand Teton, the highest of distant cathedrals.

It's

watched the sun go down behind

for all the

upon

us us.

and

can hear the

1

rustle of the

L=

fast night, tired as

Oregon

Trail.

Oregon

the

The Trail

surprised at

was,

I

I

like the spires of

Gros Ventre in the valley

TUESDAY, JULY Jackson,

setting sun etches at

world

now and the mountains are The cool of the evening is

almost ten o'clock

backlighted against the western sky.

below

The

the Tetons.

dozen other peaks, looking

least a

still

all

We

NED

&

7

Wyoming

nonetheless decided to finish Parkman's

biggest surprise of

all

was that he didn't

really take

and didn't get farther west than Pueblo.

how wantonly

1

was also

they killed buffaloes in those days (the

1840s). They'd shoot these magnificent animals just to cut off a for

an ornament. Or they'd

We

went into town

One

needed doing.

needs to be spent on

someone

else.

We

just leave

this

morning

of our surprises logistics that

had the

and the car washed, since

oil it

them for a

on

was

whole variety of tasks that

this trip

we took

changed

1

L' Amour's earlier.

We

filthy dirty

from driving these gravel I

bought

a

book that

about the Anasazi, mentioned

also

dropped

off

is

list

last

some dry cleaning, picked up

BLT

Alan Simpson's daughter

visited last Sunday.

week, Louis

a half

dozen

for lunch. Afterward,

Suzie,

who

is

the assistant

American Wildlife Museum, which we had

We

took Suzie out for a half-hour coffee break.

just as delightful as

About

filled,

best-seller

director at the Great

is

had done by

Chevy, the tank

on the New York Times

visited Senator

She

how much time

Haunted Mesa, which

items at the grocery store, and grabbed a

we

is

for granted or

in the

roads and being dragged behind the Lindy. Also,

was No.

tail

to die.

her mother and father,

Ann

and Alan.

we again made the twenty-five-mile journey to the Triangle X Ranch, where we met up with a small group of people and drove down to the bank of the Snake River to take a twoand-one-half-hour rubber-raft trip. Just as we arrived at the ranch, a fellow came up to me and said, "How's my classmate?" It was Charlie Osbom, class of 1938, and his wife, Harriet. I thought that would do three o'clock,

42

THEODORE it

Notre

for

Cottingham,

Dame

coffee.

school)

sister

He had

say hello.

because while we were in town, Mike

today,

class of 1968,

Notre Dame's

Mike

seen is

HESBURGH

M.

and

his wife (a graduate of St. Mary's,

came up

to us while

Ned walking down

the street and spun around to

running a ranch out here that sends 350 teenagers

in smaller groups out into the wilderness areas

Western

states, as well as

The

trip

we were having

down

throughout four or

we saw

the Snake River was wonderful because

good deal of wildlife, including moose, ospreys, and some bald Also,

we

five

Alaska.

got to see a different view of the Teton Range.

A

a

eagles.

closing

note about Yellowstone: As you enter the park you pass the Continental

Divide at about 7,988

The Snake

feet.

here, flows westward and, after a long

River,

which

and tortuous journey through

many canyons,

reaches the Columbia River and eventually

empty into the

Pacific.

The

originates

its

waters

Yellowstone River, on the other side of

the Divide, flows to the Atlantic by way of the Missouri and Mississippi.

Four

land, east

rivers, side

and

by

side,

west. This really

go to the two oceans that border our the Continental Divide.

is

WEDNESDAY, JULY Jackson,

e got

up early and drove

distance of exactly 100 miles.

8

Wyoming

through to Lake Lodge, a

straight

There we had lunch with the manager,

Dame grad. He also invited Nancy Lauen Dame premedical student living in Lyons

Jim Fredian, a 1978 Notre She's a Notre

to lunch. Hall.

We

had a wonderful lunch with

Afterward we called ahead to the Buffalo

a lot of Bill

good conversation.

Museum

to tell

them we

Along the road, we met a very big buffalo, at ones we saw in the Black Hills. We are now the Shoshone National Forest and going down through the canyon

might be a

little late.

least twice the size of the

in

About two hours out of the Lake Lodge, we came to Cody, the hometown of my good friend and associate on the Select Commission on Immigration and Refugee Policy, Senator Alan Simpson. to the east entrance to the park.

We

drove directly to the Buffalo

Bill

Museum and

got in touch

with the director, Peter Hassrick, and his development person, Larry

43

TRAVELS WITH TED Means. This for

is

a wonderful

NED

&.

museum, probably the

best in the West,

viewing Western art and ethnological data and, of course, the

known museum

of Bill Cody, better

going through the

dealing with Buffalo

The

government 1879).

It

all

It's

men,

made

it

the more interesting to 1

me

because

I

had

never thought existed: an interesting

titled

Exploring the American West

(1803-

begins with President Jefferson and progresses to beyond

President Grant. Mainly tain

life

spent over two hours

looking at the pictures and the artifacts

something

report.

We

Bill.

exhibits were

earlier discovered

as Buffalo Bill.

speaks of those intrepid explorers,

for the

American people.

reading this publication, which

is

F5-592 E96-1982.)

It's

(If

anyone

about 116 pages,

United States National Park Service,

is

it is

interested in classified as

Department of Publications,

an absolutely wonderful compilation of every-

made Americans want

thing that

moun-

and photographers who opened up the West and

artists,

romantic

it

to go

West and what they did

after

they got there. After visiting the museum,

—

the town

that's all

a ten-minute walk through

—then dropped

in at the Hotel

Erma,

we had

a fine

Buffalo Bill for his eldest daughter, where

named by

beef dinner. so

you need

we took

We

and turned

then walked back through town

for

another mile or

in.

THURSDAY, JULY

9

Cody, Wyoming

JL oday we're on our way back into Yellowstone for a tour of the park

and then

to our habitat at the Biolchinis' house.

It

was another day

Somehow, coming from Cody through the was much more beautiful than going the other way. We thought we were back in Bryce for a while because there were so many chimney rocks and weird-shaped red sandstone canyon walls dotted with pines. As we passed Buffalo Bill Lake and

of unprecedented sights.

east entrance of the park

started

up the canyon, the whole horizon looked

like

something right

out of "The Mountain Men," a Charles Russell painting we have at

Notre Dame.

Once

in the park,

we did the lower

44

loop,

where most of the

THEODORE excitement stone,

is.

Just

where we

Range, which

is

HESBURGH

M.

beyond the

Behind

snowcapped and forms

it,

one

a wonderful

to

Lake Yellow-

sees the

Absaroka

backdrop for

this

some you might not expect

beautiful blue lake. Birds, including see,

one comes

east gate,

fished the other day.

to

are everywhere: white pelicans, sea gulls, cormorants, a wide

variety of ducks, and, of course,

The whole

area

is

numerous Canada

cumulus clouds and an incredibly blue forever unless interrupted by a

we were

interrupted:

the road,

geese.

constantly covered with great billowing white

first

which seems

sky,

to go

on

mountain range. Twice along the way,

by 300 or 400 buffaloes that decided to cross

then by a line of stopped cars whose occupants were

photographing a large herd of

some with magnificent racks of

elk,

antlers.

The two best-known attractions in the park are Yellowstone Canyon and Old Faithful. The canyon is about 1,500 feet wide and 1,200 feet deep. The sides are made of decomposed rhyolite lava rock which comes out yellow, giving the park its name. The Yellowstone River and two great waterfalls with drops of 100 and 300 feet are at the bottom of the canyon.

When we

arrived at

Old

Faithful the prediction

was that

it

would

erupt at 4:52, give or take five minutes. That gave us about a half-

hour leeway, so we did the unthinkable and went to a concession stand and bought ice-cream cones. This meant

Ned

remember the

couldn't

last

then joined a throng of about 5,000 people

around the geyser.

It

we were

really relaxed;

time he had an ice-cream cone.

who had formed

We

a ring

shot up a couple of minutes after 4:52, but well

within the five-minute leeway time.

The

eruption lasted about a

minute. While we were waiting, we saw several smaller geysers in the area shoot skyward.

We left

arrived back at the Biolchinis' about seven o'clock, having

Cody

morning about nine.

this

I

decided to get fancy and turned

out two chicken pot pies, which, thanks to Mrs. Stouffer, were marvelous. Another

first.

After dinner we sat out on the veranda with

Joyce Hank's cookies, cups of steaming black coffee, and cigars.

we were watching tonight was

a

normal

electrical

What

show going on

beyond the Tetons to the west, but moving our way. It

made

all

of our Fourth of July celebrations seem puny as the

lightning flashed across those dark skies, outlining the

45

mountain

TRAVELS WITH TED peaks.

We knew

it

had

arrived for us

when

NED

&

raindrops began to

fall.

So

we came indoors and looked out through the marvelous twenty-foothigh window front of the house and watched the pyrotechnics continue, this time to the accompaniment of thunder. This was the first heavy rain we had experienced in the four weeks we have been traveling.

when I go

always start the Rosary

I

to have to get a different system because

Mary

Hail

bed

to

at night, but I'm

rarely get

1

beyond the third

these nights before falling into a profound sleep.

the relaxation,

maybe

it's

the mountain

air.

1

going

Maybe

it's

don't want to claim a

we both have been sleeping like the dead. Tomorrow will be cleanup day before we leave again and also a day to welcome the owners of this house, Bob and completely clear conscience, but the fact

Fran Biolchini and three of their to the

six children.

sound of heavy rain beating on the

Jackson,

I

t

was

still

raining and

arose,

late,

We

days.

called

It's

me

laid

much

me my

first

morning time we

paper one accumulates in a few

that the plane

up with

calls to

When

make.

on which we hope

a shattered windshield, but

good operating condition, so the Alaskan

gave

in this

should confess. For the

whole spate of phone

Helen she told

Alaska had been in

a

Wyoming

minimal breakfast, we began the cleanup

amazing how

had

also

1

off to sleep

10

we were completely fogged

somewhat

can't see the Tetons. After a

operation.

dropped

I

roof.

FRIDAY, JULY

when we

is,

trip

is still

is

1

to go to

now back

on. She also

plane reservations from Bellingham, Washington, to

South Bend to open the Special Olympics which

Dame Stadium

will

be held in Notre

I also learned that the new administration is summer camp in Land O'Lakes, Wisconsin, to prepare for the coming year and many more that will follow. Yesterday in Cody, Ned and 1 offered Mass for their success. Fran Biolchini arrived right on schedule at 4:30 P.M. after a twoday, 1,100-mile drive from Tulsa with three of her children. Bob arrived a few hours later by air and we had a nice dinner at the country club. After dinner, we went back to the house and talked

now

this year.

assembling at our

46

THEODORE

A.M. Shortly thereafter we

until 1:30

awakened

HESBURGH

M.

all

went

a couple of hours later by three

bedroom window.

their noses against the Biolchinis'

SATURDAY, JULY

1

1

Wyoming

Jackson,

had Mass with the Biolchinis and blessed

e is

to sleep, only to be

moose who were rubbing

The weather began

only a year and a half old now.

morning, but

it

still

and clouds

drizzled intermittently

the three large Teton peaks. Fran sent us off with a

which held

we

us well after

which

their house,

to clear this still

covered

terrific breakfast,

crossed the border into Idaho. Rather

than retrace the route we had taken so many times up to Yellowstone, we headed south through Jackson, then over Teton Pass at 8,431 feet, and finally north toward Glacier National Park. Nobody thought we'd make it over that pass, and, in fact, we slowed to 14 miles an hour in low gear. But eventually we made

it.

After Teton Pass, we soon crossed the border into Idaho, our eighth state so

far.

We

drove through a section of Targhee National

then over rolling

Forest,

hills

green with wheat, hay, and plants

A

on As we proceeded north, the road became like a roller coaster, up and down between the fields. At every quadrant of the compass, we could see mountains off in the distance against that far-off big sky, now bluer than ever. By prearrangement, we arrived at the summer home of Bob growing that famous Idaho potato. as well,

but the land looked very

Bauchman,

They

class of 1943,

live in

and

great deal of irrigation goes

fertile.

his wife, Alice, near

Macks Inn, Idaho.

Las Vegas and are in the communications development

business, mainly construction. Recently, they participated in a Notre

Dame

fly-in.

About seven of the Bauchman

family and in-laws have

Notre

Dame

or St. Mary's connections, so

we

After we had

all

the daughters, sons, and in-laws sorted out,

to a little log cabin

down

the road for dinner.

only guests, but the meal was splendiferous

and a marvelous cream cooking for

saw

how

felt right at

sauce.

It

We were

home.

we drove

practically the

—shrimp and

crab, rice,

was great to enjoy someone

else's

a change. After dinner, we went down to Macks Inn and

they recreate on Saturday night in the mountains. There was

47

TRAVELS WITH TED country music and a kind of dancing that

dancing and very with a

lot

Ned, and

a few cuts

is

All of the family seemed to be

fast.

of moves and

a lot of speed.

came back

had

I

NED

&

early,

Bob was the

a nightcap

above square

terrific

dancers

Bob, Alice,

best.

and a long conversation

before the young people arrived and piled into the Jacuzzi. When we finally turned in, we all were asleep about two minutes after hitting

the pillow.

SUNDAY, JULY Macks

A.

.t

2

nine o'clock the whole living room was

and children who had come 1

1

Inn, Idaho

for Mass. It

preached on love and the family.

was

my

station

we went

in July.

falls

miles in

all

At about 11,000

From

this

men, women,

turn to celebrate, so

it

grow or

to the top of a Federal Aviation

on Sawtell Mountain. From

reclining Indian.

of

well with the Gospel,

It fit fairly

which was about planting the seed and having breakfast,

full

die.

After

Agency

radar

a distance, Sawtell looks like a

feet, it's

up there where the snow

vantage point, we were able to see about 100

directions. Fortunately, the clouds

had

lifted,

so

we had a we saw

splendid view of the Tetons from the west. North of them,

Yellowstone Park and behind them, the snowcapped Absaroka Range. Farther to the north was the Gallatin National Forest and Crazy

Mountain beyond, almost to Idaho will

be seeing

We

also

Falls.

snowcapped, and to the south, we could see

To the west was the Bitterroot Range, which we

later.

thought we'd get underway about 1:45 P.M., but our Chevy

got tangled up in the pine trees in the driveway, so the whole business,

We

out.

finally

Chevy and Kaddy

negotiated everything and were

We

headed north to Bozeman, Montana.

90,

I

park,

took the wheel and drove to Butte.

where we unhooked the Chevy.

which looked

like a

we had

Kar, and back the

We

RV

to

undo

up to get

on our way by

2 P.M.

When we joined Interstate We checked into the trailer did a quick tour of the city,

once prosperous mining town, now defunct.

We

returned to the Lindy around seven o'clock, and prepared a light

supper of toasted Believe

it

ham and

or not, we're

Swiss cheese sandwiches and baked beans.

still

eating Joyce Hank's cookies for dessert.

48

THEODORE Tomorrow

HESBURGH

M.

we'll get our muffler fixed.

making so much noise Breviary so

Ned

practically

I

Today coming into Butte

had

to

Butte,

scream while reading the

13

Montana

and

e started the day by refilling our propane tank

muffler shop. Luckily,

all

first

we saw

height, valley

on

Then

hills

90 and headed toward Missoula.

the valley narrowed, the hills increased in

and thick stands of

Interstate

with

Interstate

good-sized, rolling hills that were rather barren for

trip.

opened up

visiting a

the muffler needed was some minor repair.

That done, we got back on about half the

was

could hear me.

MONDAY, JULY

At

it

fir

we came

just as

trees

appeared on their flanks.

90 out of Missoula, we drove through

a beautiful valley

that were slightly higher and covered with pine trees.

trees gradually disappeared

confronting mountains.

The

into Missoula. Continuing northwest

from the brown

and soon we were

hills,

As we came over the

The

final rise,

there was

Flathead Lake, a beautiful deep blue- water lake that stretches to the

edge of Glacier Park.

We

Dame

stopped in Poison to meet relatives of two Notre

hometown of Spartanburg, South Carolina: Rob and Carol Tieman. Rob met us in town shortly after our arrival and

graduates from Ned's

conducted us around the south end of Flathead Lake, which twenty miles long and sixteen miles broad

about

at its widest point.

unhitched the Chevy before starting because he said road and he wasn't kidding.

is

The Tiemans' house

is

it

was a

We

difficult

about 150 feet

above the lake and looks down through wonderfiil ponderosa pines

and Douglas

firs.

There was

also a smattering of cedar, blue spruce,

lodgepole pine, and larch along the shore.

having a cold beer and discussing Glacier.

Then Carol

Both of them

We

sat

out on the veranda

how we might approach

our

visit to

turned out a great chicken and rice casserole.

are ski instructors in

Aspen, he in downhill and she in

cross-country. Because of 140 days of intensive

able to have a wonderfiiUy peaceful

summer by

in this secluded cabin, a family heirloom.

49

work

there, they are

this beautiful lake

and

TRAVELS WITH TED We're going to get an early

start

NED

&

tomorrow, so we're turning in

early tonight.

TUESDAY, JULY Poison,

astille

Day dawned

bright and clear.

We

a perfect setting as the

porch of the cabin,

14

Montana

had Mass on the front

sun came up behind the

mountains to the east and turned the lake into pure

crystal.

We

drove

about sixty miles up the east side of the lake and then over to the

Swan Range. Rob and Carol are real outdoor persons, and they knew of an old lumber road on which we could drive up to about 6,000 feet. Then, with Carol in the lead as our navigator, we hiked up the mountain

for another 2,000 or

3,000

better part of two hours with very

feet. It little

was up and up

rest

on the way.

painfully clear that Carol was in a lot better condition than Finally,

we reached

We

off

had planned

tonight, but were so

It

was

we were.

Jewel Basin, a high valley dotted with beautiful

blue-green lakes, and sat

and cheese, topped

for the

down

to a picnic lunch of fruit, crackers,

with cookies made from a chocolate substitute.

Tiemans out

to take the

to dinner in

pooped when we arrived home that

all

town

of us just

pitched in and put together a simple but tasty meal in the Tiemans' kitchen.

WEDNESDAY, JULY Poison,

e rearranged

some things

thanked the Tiemans

Chevy

15

Montana

in our

somewhat disheveled Lindy,

for their hospitality and, after hitching

again, struck out northward

up the

on U.S. 93 along the west edge of

Flathead Lake. At the north end of the lake the

alfalfa

and wheat and

grazing land began to be replaced by Christmas-tree farms.

The

Christmas trees are beautiful Scotch pine that are trimmed into perfect cones.

We

are told that Flathead

lake west of the Mississippi.

I

Lake

is

the largest freshwater

assume that means natural lakes and

I

not lakes created by dams.

50

THEODORE We

pulled up in front of St. Raymond's

where we know both the

Falls,

HESBURGH

M.

pastor, Father

Church in Columbia Bud Sullivan, and his

Father Emmett O'Neil. Father Bud is related to Mike Murphy, a C.S.C. at Notre Dame. I have known Father Emmett since we studied together at the Gregorian University in retired assistant.

Father

Rome

interested in

who

Our

in 1937-40.

is

many

of the same apostolates. Father Jack Hunthausen,

dean of the

lately.

The

He much

local clergy here, joined us for supper.

brother of Archbishop

news

we were both

paths kept crossing because

Raymond Hunthausen

of Seattle,

is

the

in the

archbishop, by the way, has an advanced degree in

chemistry from Notre Dame.

THURSDAY, JULY Columbia

F

Emmett decided

ather

JL

to

Falls,

16

Montana

come with

us to Glacier National Park,

giving us both a navigator and a good companion. Glacier Park, as

the

name

indicates,

million years ago.

was created by

They

ago. After the Europeans arrived as a

were formed a few

glaciers that

finished their

work here about 4,000 years

and the 49th

parallel

was established

boundary between the United States and Canada, the park was

The Canadian

cut in half.

park, called

Waterton Lakes, was created

and Glacier, on the American

in 1895,

side,

1910. In 1932, the two countries decreed that

fifteen years later in it

would be called the

Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park to symbolize the peace and friendship between the two nations.

On

entering the park

McDonald, which making

it

is

we

cruised along the east

bank of Lake

about sixty miles long and half a mile wide,

the park's largest lake. At the end of the lake

veritable procession of

mountain peaks of

on the sheer grandeur of the peaks

all sizes

alone,

I

we beheld

a

and shapes. Based

would have

to say that

we have seen so far. After Glacier Lake we went on a long climb over Logan Pass with its spectacular drop-offs all the way to the top. The road, called the Going to the Sun Highway, must be one of the most beautifiil drives Glacier

in

is

the most dazzling of the parks

America.

Once

over the pass,

we dropped down on the other

51

side to St.

TRAVELS WITH TED McDonald

Mary's Lake, second to

&

NED

in size. St. Mary's

about ten

is

miles long and a mile or so wide, with a depth of 246 feet. All the

and

lakes here are deep

and

blue,

the more beautiful

all

when

glassy surfaces reflect the towering peaks of the surrouriding

From

tains.

we headed

St. Mary's,

for the border

their

moun-

and the Prince of

Wales Hotel in the Canadian portion of the park. It's a beautiful lodge, in miniature much like Banff and the Hotel Frontenac in

They have only eighty-two rooms and we were fortunate to get the last two. From here, we took an invigorating walk in the woods and made several side trips in the Quebec, although more

rustic.

Chevy.

FRIDAY, JULY

Montana

Glacier Natiorud Park,

A.

inally,

it

is

Dame on June

Notre

We woke

happened.

black clouds. This

the 11

,

first

up

bad

17

this

morning

travel

to a drizzly rain

and

day we've had since leaving

so we're not complaining.

(We

did have one

day of partial rain in the Tetons, but we weren't traveling that day.)

was a dreary

trip

back to Columbia

Falls,

but fortunately

It

we saw most

of Glacier's spectacular scenery yesterday.

We

had a wonderful dinner

Father

Tom

Fenlon, a retired priest.

when

evenings that happens gether

—

in the rectory tonight.

who was

invited Father Jack Hunthausen,

filled

all, it

was one of those special

priests long in the

with reminiscences,

limericks. All in

It

e

had Mass in church

Falls,

1

Montana

for a change,

then took to the road and

headed northward with the Rockies looming on the

progress.

like the

right.

We stopped

Our Lady of Mercy, As we continued north, the view to Black Hills, but higher. Then we came

in Eureka to see the wonderful little church.

where a wedding was in

much

and

was a nice way to end a rather dismal day.

Columbia

the right was

vineyard get to-

stories, theological discussions,

SATURDAY, JULY

w

Bud had

here the other night, and

52

THEODORE out into a

area where there was

flatter

irrigated fields for cattle.

name.

As

I

When

some

Once more we

Canada. This time the customs the RV.

HESBURGH

M.

officer

agriculture,

crossed the border into

on duty

on searching

insisted

was unlocking the door to the Lindy, he asked I

you please give

him he

told

me

said, "I

thought

your autograph?"

The

mostly

recognized you.

I

me my Would

search was then discontin-

ued.

Once we passed the border, the road was much better, which doesn't say much for the United States compared with Canada. There was a good deal of

irrigation along the way, mostly to

we saw

crops for the stocky Charolais cattle that

We

alongside the road.

grow forage

numbers

in great

then entered our eleventh national park, the

As we continued northward, we had the Rockies on both and we could see snow on the higher peaks. The weather

Kootenay. sides,

continued to be cloudy with intermittent rains

all

along the way,

nothing heavy, but persistent. After about 250 miles, we arrived

Once we were

our destination for the day: Golden, British Columbia.

RV

settled in at the

campground, we had a drink and dinner that

prepared, consisting of beefsteak, rice, and peas. believe that

I

put

it

and

sizes

and ours

camps

attract

at the

by no means the

is

Golden,

fast

night

it

British

it

was

another hour.

raining,

It

was

my

we

just

all

shapes

largest.

19

Columbia

grew quite cold and rained

still

a walk

wide variety of recreational

all

went back

turn to give a homily

We both used When we got up

night.

our sleeping bags and were grateful to have them.

and saw

I

couldn't quite

we took

each night. They come in

SUNDAY, JULY

L

Ned

together by myself. After dinner,

around the camp and were amazed vehicles that these

at

to

bed and

slept for

on the Gospel, which

was an easy one on sowing good wheat only to have the enemy sow weeds in the wheat. Jesus

God

will separate

not eradicate to.

When He

says let

them and

all evil

bum

them grow

together.

At the

harvest,

the weeds. Even the good Lord does

in this world, although

He

could

if

He wanted

gave us our personal freedom, he allowed us to do good

freely but also evil.

He

lets evil exist until

53

the end of time,

when

all

TRAVELS WITH TED will

midnight. The

before

be

we have

just;

the

modem

be made aright. Most

modem The

We

if

we want

and

them

it

day for reading. Having read a

some Mozart

in our tape

all evil

not enough merely to for

have to love people and be understanding of

to help

rain continued,

it is

same time. Several good lessons

to be kind at the

Church.

their failings

reformers want to eradicate

reading said that

first

NED

&

to be better.

looked

lot of

as

though

theology

it

was going to be a

last night,

I

turned on

deck and went through about 400 Spanish

vocabulary cards to get ready for Latin America, our next travel

we took

objective. Despite the intermittent rain,

the hills after lunch.

Louise and Banff.

If it

a long

doesn't clear up tomorrow,

These are wonderful

we

walk up into

will skip

spots

tourist

in

Lake

Canada.

However, we've both been here before and there's no point in going into the mountains

when

the fog

is

only a few hundred feet off the

ground.

MONDAY, JULY

20

Golden, British Columbia

e

woke up today

to more rain and low-lying clouds, so it was off on Trans-Canada No. 1, as good a highway as you're Fortunately, the skies cleared as we headed west. We

to the west again

going to find.

went down

a long valley with snow-covered mountains on both sides. we As headed up through Rogers Pass, we drove through five tunnels. The top of the pass was only about a mile high, but there was an absolutely marvelous view of the mountains on every side. This is the

end of the Canadian section of the Waterton-Glacier National Park. We're

now heading

Range and the

into the Coast

along the Mackenzie and Fraser

rivers.

Pacific

time zone

At Kamloops we decided

to

Cache Creek. It was quite warm by the time we arrived there, but we had done over 200 miles and it was time to stop if we hoped to get into a camp for the night. We hooked up our utilities, fixed ourselves a simple meal, and took spend the night

another turning

fairly

at a

campground

long walk around

called

camp

in.

54

to limber

up our

legs before

1

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

TUESDAY, JULY Kamloops,

British

2

Columbia

much more

A. oday, the road turned out to be

spectacular than

we came into the Lillooet Range of the Coast Mountains. We passed down through some tremendous valleys between the mounyesterday as

and up over passes which culminated in Hells Gate. This

tains

is

where the chasm narrows and the Fraser River comes roaring through,

much

as the

water does at Murchison

Falls at

the headwaters of the

we were going through tunnels all day and, we saw more trains than we had seen on all of the

Nile in Uganda. Again, for

some

reason,

American a

hundred

then

left

up to

railroad lines cars long.

We

enjoyed great

Two

them were more than mountain scenery all morning,

this point.

the Coast Range behind around

of

noon and broke

for

lunch

at a truck stop. After lunch we continued south to Bellingham, where we checked into a hotel. Our plan is to leave the Lindy and the Chevy here while we fly back to Notre Dame for the Special Olympics.

After that, we'll leave from Notre

here to resume our

RV

Dame

for Alaska,

and then

fly

back

itinerary.

The first thing we did was look around for a Ford truck dealer, since we had blown our muffler again and the Lindy sounded like a Sherman tank. But we couldn't find a place that could fix the muffler; nor could we find a parking

and the Chevy.

We

facility

where we could

therefore decided to push

on

store the

Lindy

to Seattle in the

morning, in the hope that we'd find what we needed there.

During dinner in the hotel here tonight, we got into a conversation with two

young

ladies,

one our waitress and the other the

They were questioning us about our work in life, and when they found out we were priests, they both admitted they were fallen-away Catholics. One thing led to another, and I think we finally talked them into reconsidering their current religious positions. As we left the restaurant, the waitress said, "I guess it's Providence at maitresse d'hotel.

work again; the good Lord sent you around

We

will

remember them both

at

to talk to

me

Mass tomorrow morning.

55

tonight."

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

WEDNESDAY, JULY

22

BeUin^\am, Washingum

JL oday could have been

our day of frustration.

justifiably called

We

Bellingham around 9:30 in the morning and were in Seattle by

left

We

early afternoon.

thought we had really lucked out

when we noted

that only a few blocks from the Holiday Inn was a large Ford truck

We pulled

service center.

he is

"We

said simply,

We

fine.

He

just

did

tell

just

when

but

in,

don't take care of RVs."

want you

came out, answered, "The RV

the service manager

to fix the muffler

We

on the Ford truck

chassis."

repeated that he didn't take care of RVs and that was that. us that there was

to the south. Since

go there

an

we were

RV

nowhere with him, we decided to

getting

checking into the Holiday Inn. But

after

He

repair place about twenty-five miles

check in we were told that no rooms were

some heavy persuading on Ned's

when we

available. Finally, after

manager

part, the

tried to

told us to

come

back in a couple of hours, and in the meantime he'd see what he could do. In our free time, we decided to go repair place. mufflers."

When we

They

It

was

he could stretch

if

it

we

little

more than

his welding

the road to the

"We

got the answer:

which looked

sent us to another place,

night operation. said

found

down

don't

RV fix

like a fly-by-

a shack, but the proprietor

equipment

far

enough, he'd

try to

weld our muffler and exhaust pipe together, which would have solved our problem.

We

pulled the

to fix ourselves

RV

in as close as

some lunch.

finished welding,

we had

inside the RV When the man

we could and went

Finally our luck changed.

a muffler that was as quiet as the Chevy's.

And when we went back to the Holiday Inn, we had a couple of rooms. Storing the RV and the Chevy, however, was another matter. There was a storage place and a

available, but

leg to leave the rig there for

didn't appear to be too tight.

better part of valor

would be

At to

it

would have cost us an arm

two weeks. What's more, security

that point,

it

seemed

of Portland, a Holy Cross (our order) operation where

among

friends

to us that the

push on tomorrow to the University

and could undoubtedly

two vehicles.

56

we would be

find a secure place to leave our

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

THURSDAY, JULY Seattle,

23

Washington

e pulled into the University of Portland about

search of friends.

vice president there.

He took

After lunch, Dave and Father

Tom Oddo,

a few

a number of new friends.

the president, took us over

Dick Rutherford's house, which has two bedrooms. Father

Dick was away

for the

weekend

so

we inherited

his place.

town and made an appointment

called the Ford agency in

I

made

in

the academic

where we met

us to lunch,

our other Holy Cross priests and Brothers and

to Father

noon and went

We soon ran into Father Dave Sherrer,

worse than getting in to see the dentist) to have the

oil

(it's

changed and

the Lindy lubricated tomorrow at 8:30 A.M. We'd been given an ideal place to keep our rig until

we

—

get back

maintenance garage. With these

last

right outside the university

two days of unplanned

have driven 7,572 miles since leaving South Bend.

We

travel,

we

had Mass with

Community this afternoon, then a joyous dinner, where we were reunited with many old friends. Following that, Father Oddo took us on a very pleasant walking tour of the campus. I really envy them for the

the seventy-year-old sequoia trees they have growing here. They're

about thirty teet high and are

all

over campus. I'm afraid, though,

that they just wouldn't survive the climate at Notre

FRIDAY, JULY PcfTtland,

e were

up

24

Oregon

early to get the Lindy

dealer before 8:30 A.M. Luckily

Dame.

and the Chevy

we got

to the local Ford

there early, for soon there was

a long line of people waiting to have repairs done.

service

work was done, we returned

to the university

When

all

the

and had Mass

and lunch with the Community. After that we began packing our small duffel bags for the quick trip back to Notre

one

to

Alaska immediately following

it.

Dame and

to overload the small plane we'll be flying in to Alaska.

the perishables out of our refrigerator and put ford's.

Then we

the longer

We're traveling light so

them

We

as

not

cleaned

in Father Ruther-

shut off the propane gas, chained the Kaddy Kar to

the Lindy, and locked the doors.

57

With

all

our housekeeping com-

TRAVELS WITH TED now

pleted, we're

who

ready for a free day tomorrow. Father Terry Lalley,

used to teach psychology at Notre

Psychological Center here,

is

Dame and

Portland,

ur

of the

25

Oregon

Multnomah

stop with Father Lalley was

first

now head

is

going to show us around the area.

SATURDAY, JULY

o,

NED

«Si

Falls,

We

very long, wispy, and of the bridal-veil variety.

which

are

then went to

Chanticleer Point, where we had a great view of the Columbia River as

comes toward the ocean from the

it

Dam, dedicated by Franklin D. more than $3 one of the

billion

first

worth of electricity since

dams used

to

Next was Bonneville

east.

Roosevelt in 1937. its

It

has developed

dedication, and was

experiment with accommodating the

spawning of the salmon. Finally,

we came

to

Panorama Point about

fifty

Hood. Snow-covered Mount Hood almost looks Himalayas

as

it

rises majestically

the other mountains around

Helens from here.

We

is

truly majestic,

We

one of the

like

floor. It

Mount

simply dwarfs

were also able to see Mount

St.

drove a very beautiful road that goes around

Mount Hood and came up lodge

it.

from the valley

miles from

the back of

it

to Timberline Lodge.

The

with heavy wooden furniture and immense

wooden beams. The room President Roosevelt had used is now a kind of museum, and you can listen to a tape recording of the speech he

made

here.

7,000

feet.

We enjoyed another We ended our tour

clams by the bucket

great view by taking the ski

lift

up

to

at a Portland restaurant that served

as well as crab Louis.

We

sampled both.

After this brief interlude in Portland, we flew directly back to

campus

to participate in the Special Olympics, for

to be honorary chair.

58

which

I

had agreed

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

TUESDAY, AUGUST

4

Notre Dame, Indiana

w.

've

been back

getting ready to

fly

Dame

Notre

at

day we

left

been on an airplane, by

seven weeks since

I'd

without a

almost forty years.

flight in

week and

for a

On the

to Alaska.

a day

Portland

my

far

The most

and now it

are

had been

longest spell

exciting event of the

week, and the reason we were here, was, of course, the Special

Olympics, the largest

of this kind in the history of the world.

affair

Credit for organizing the Special Olympics, not only here but worldwide, goes to Eunice Kennedy Shriver and her husband, Sarge. a thrilling sight to see those

women marching around

It

was

men and

5,000 smiling handicapped

the stadium to cheers during the opening

ceremonies, perhaps feeling for the

first

time in their

lives a sense of

importance and dignity. There was the usual hoopla with celebrities in attendance.

It

minute's prayer.

I

was

my

small task as honorary chairman to say a

prayed for peace and for the splendid example that

these young people from so

many

conflicting nations were giving us

by competing together and upholding the dignity of denigrated because of retardation or disability. despite all of their difficulties, so can we. spirit that

we were

celebrating.

If

It

human

beings so

they can get together

was

As somebody

really the

said so well,

human "Here

everybody wins; there are no losers."

Everyone back here

at

Notre

Dame was

surprised that those

who

were not supposed to get past Gary managed to put over 8,000 miles

on the Lindy and the Chevy. So with us as we continue. It

far,

so good.

May

was, of course, great to be back at Notre

the good Lord be

Dame,

if

even for a

week. Neither of us has missed the daily schedule of the past thirtyfive years,

however

home

but

is

home, and we were both happy

to see

it,

briefly.

We were

up

at 6:15

A.M. today.

Ned and

I

offered

Mass together,

then went to the airport, where we met OUie Cunningham, his wife, Millie,

and

their copilot,

Cessna Conquest, a prop

Ted Byron. jet

in the

air,

are flying a two-engine

that easily seats four passengers besides

the pilot and the copilot, with plenty of

we were

We

and a few hours

room

for luggage.

later, after fiiel stops

59

By 8 A.M.

in Aberdeen,

TRAVELS WITH TED South Dakota, and Great

Falls,

NED

&

Montana, we landed in Bellingham,

Washington.

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST

5

Bellingham, Washington

Alaska until tomorrow, so today the four

e were not leaving for

of us got a rental car and drove up to Vancouver for some leisurely sightseeing. cit>%

We

saw the

toured beautiful Stanley Park in the middle of the of the World's Fair,

site

and walked along the wharf Ted Byron

had lunch

for a while.

Back

in the Bayside Hotel,

in

Bellingham we met

Yacht Club.

for dinner at the

THURSDAY, AUGUST

6

BeUingham, Washington

ilhe day

and sunny

davv-ned bright

as

we took

off in the

Cessna from

Bellingham, but by the time we were approaching Sitka, Alaska,

were in dense

When we

fog.

were only about

ICX) feet off

we

broke into the open on our approach, we the deck.

Sitka was opened by Alexander Baranof and the Russian Ameri-

can Company, a fur-trading operation. Baranof was the governor of the Russian colony here from 1799 to 1818.

The

local Indians, the

who were

hunters, gatherers, and especially fishermen, de-

stroyed the colony

and drove out Baranof and the Russians in 1802.

Tlingit,

Baranof and the colonists recaptured Sitka, which was then called

St.

Michael's, in 1804.

Baranof was a called "the

New

very- forceful

Archangel," a great Russian port on the Arctic

Ocean. He traded widely, even Francisco for $25 a ton. colonists' children

character and created here what he

back to

He

selling ice to the residents of

also built a steamship

San

and sent the

St. Petersburg for their education. In the

center of town, the Russians built an ornate Russian cathedral, St. Michael's. Sitka began to be called "the Paris of the Pacific" because

of

its

beaut>'.

In 1867, thanks to the efforts of Secretary- of State

William Henr>' Seward, the United States bought Alaska from Russia

60

THEODORE

The purchase was

called "Seward's Folly," even

two cents per

Alaska became our forty-ninth

$7.2 million.

for

though

it

came

to

HESBURGH

M.

acre.

state in 1959.

Sitka

is

framed by the snowcapped peaks of the Tongass National

and Mount Edgecumbe, a volcano. The Japan Current keeps temperatures fairly moderate here 50s and 60s in the summer and Forest

—

20s in the winter.

everything

on

many totem

The town

small

is

foot. For sightseers the

poles.

convey themes in

The

AUGUST

we

English muffins and reindeer sausage,

7

with a breakfast of

fortified

set off to see Sitka in

where the Russians defeated the Tlingit Indians

are also nineteen very fine

more

in 1804.

totem poles here. After lunch we

toured Sheldon Jackson College with

A

poles often

Sitka National Historic Park, adjacent to the city, contains

site

There

on the

Alaska

was foggy and rainy again today, but

detail.

the

major attractions here are the

tribal history.

Sitka,

t

one to see

to allow

intricately carved figures

FRIDAY,

I

enough

its

president, Michael Kaelka.

highlight of the tour was seeing the

room where Jim Michener

researched his great book Alaska.

The

college does a lot of fish research and currently they're

running a project that puts 16 million salmon back into the bay here

each year. Later we visited a Russian cemetery and what's

left

of old

Baranof Castle, where the transfer of Alaska from Russia to the

United States took place.

Unfortunately,

the Russian Orthodox

church, St. Michael's Cathedral, was closed because most of their

income comes from

tourists

and the

cruise ship

had

SATURDAY, AUGUST Sitka,

e

and

went out

fishing this

Millie: Fred Reeder,

caught a ten-pound

town.

8

Alaska

morning

who owned

silver

just left

at 9:30

with two friends of GUie

the boat, and Steve Brenner.

We

salmon out on the ocean and some rock cod

61

TRAVELS WITH TED while trolling along the coast. That was about pointed, though, because

some

variety of other creatures.

today.

itself,

We

And

much

We

it.

after the

were overdue in returning

It's

weren't disap-

humpback

wildlife:

whales,

and a

eagles,

there was also the incredible beauty of

even more stunning

Millie have extended to us, so

dinner.

so

swimming behind the boat, several bald

seals

the coast

we saw

NED

&

sun

finally

broke through

the hospitality Ollie and

all

we took them

Channel Club

to the

reputed to be the best restaurant in Sitka.

It's

for

the only

place I've ever eaten where the halibut tasted good to me; even the

crab legs were outstanding.

The

beefsteak was about one and a half

inches thick and legendary in these parts.

We

shared our choices.

SUNDAY, AUGUST Alaska

Sitka,

A
'm. In the middle of the after-

went down

to the

computing center and spent an hour and a

We

half learning about computers.

number of software programs, and an

We

demon-

got tired just watching the athletic young lady

I

had about

a

hundred people

have ten computers aboard, a instructor. at

Mass

this afternoon,

which

is

very good considering we're only one day out and there are about

twenty other things one can do to build as the days pass.

continue to improve

some extra

effort.

the rabbi today. aboard. But

if

We

we

also

at that hour.

tends

We're convinced that attendance will give

good homilies, so we're putting

in

worked out a schedule with the bishop and

No problem for the rabbi,

we have

The congregation

because there

is

a

synagogue

to split times with the Episcopalians. We'll have

Sunday Masses

at 8 .A.M.

Holy Eucharist

at

and 6:15 P.M.

9 A.M. in the card

in the theater. He'll

room and another

have his

service each

week on Wednesday.

We

have traveled almost 1,000 miles from

New

York and have

another 1,000 to go after we leave Everglades tomorrow night, en route to St.

Thomas. The

warmer. Ned and

deck

after

I

did

seas have

calmed down

a bit

and

it's

getting

some high-speed walking around the outer

dinner tonight.

182

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

FRIDAY, JANUARY

15

Fort Lauderdale, Florida

A. he ship

came aboard

We

crowded.

terribly

which

here,

Once we

Angeles. a

is

were told that about 600 people

will give us a very full ship

get to Los Angeles, things should be easier. There,

good number of people

why

and we

will get off,

1,000 in the passenger group, which the crew. That's

from here to Los

is

have only about

will

about the number we have in

these trips are so expensive.

Father Bernard D'Arcy, a White Father from Ireland

He was aboard when we began

again in Fort Lauderdale. cruise,

He

who

looks

between Pope John XXIII and Spencer Tracy, came aboard

like a cross

but

left

the Christmas

the ship to spend the holidays with friends in Florida.

be the chaplain for the crew.

will

We

had a nice group of people

for Mass, probably a

which was better than expected since we were mixed up change.

1

"Pallada, "

came back

to the cabin to

book

a long

I

started

do more

sailing

on the Christmas

account by Ivan Goncharov, a Russian, of his

on

a sailing ship in 1852-55.

it's

difficult to

It's

read quickly. I'm

trip

hundred,

in the time

on The cruise.

Frigate It's

an

around the world

so full of colorful descriptions that

now with Goncharov in Japan, where come ashore in Japan.

he's trying to get the Japanese to let Russians

No way!

SATURDAY, JANUARY En Route

A.

.s

with

all first

16

Thomas

to St.

days out with several hundred

new

aboard, this was a day of meeting people. All one has to do

passengers is sit

down

with a book along one of the main decks and twenty-five people an

hour will stop and say hello. That's a

had

my

collar on, fifty

ship that

it's

would

stop.

Everyone

is

to

remember.

If

I

so friendly aboard this

hard to read for more than ten minutes without someone

stopping by for a chat. That's

all to

here to be chaplains. This afternoon

on the boat deck. People

names

lot of

tell

I

me

hope

it

was

the good, though, because we're I

did a

little

marriage counseling

successful.

they are delighted that

183

we can have Mass

this

TRAVELS WITH TED Saturday afternoon at 6:15, since of

them

it

NED

&.

count for Sunday Mass.

will

around 8:30 in the morning to

are leaving

Amalie, the capital city of

St.

Thomas

visit

Many

Charlotte

in the U.S. Virgin Islands,

where we anchor.

The U.S. Virgin Islands are a trust territory of the United States. They lie 1,400 miles southeast of New York, 1,000 miles southeast of Miami. There are about

fifty

islands in

all,

but only three that are

inhabited to any extent worth mentioning: St. Thomas, St. Croix,

and

St.

John.

The

islands are a part of the Lesser Antilles,

the

southern end of a 2,500-mile chain of Caribbean islands, sometimes called the

West

Indies, that stretch

from the

tip of Florida to the coast

of Venezuela, dividing the Caribbean Sea from the Atlantic Ocean,

Geologists and oceanographers say that the island chain was once an

unbroken bridge between North and South America. Most of the islands are the extinct volcanic peaks of a great

submarine mountain

range; a few grew from the shallow underwater shelf as coral formations.

Columbus the

New

sighted the island in 1493 during his second voyage to

World.

He

put ashore for fresh water at Salt River on St.

Croix on the morning of November 14, but quickly retreated when hostile Carib Indians

made

As Columbus continued

it

plain that visitors were not welcome.

sailing

northward, he sighted

many

of the

other islands in the group. So impressed was he with their number

named them Las VirgineSy after St. Ursula and her 11,000 companions who were reputedly slain by the Huns during the sacking that he

of Cologne.

The and

first

European inhabitants of the island were primarily

privateers

who

treasure ships that passed through the

West Indies on

to Europe from Central America. In 1671 the

Company began

pirates

spent their time preying on the richly laden

—

colonizing the islands

their

way back

Danish West Indian

first St.

Thomas, then

St.

John. In 1733 the Danish government bought St. Croix from the

French, by which time the sugarcane industry was thriving on St. John. St. Thomas,

on the other hand, was the hub of the

between the Old and

New

trade routes

Worlds, a hangout for buccaneers, and an

auction block for Africans imported as slaves to work the sugar plantations.

The

islands

remained Danish until 1917, when the United States

184

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

purchased them for $25 million in order to achieve control over the

Panama Canal and

sea approaches to the

to prevent

Germany from

establishing a submarine base in the islands. Prohibition in the 1920s dealt the final

blow to the sugar industry; most of the crop had gone

into the manufacture of

Though long

rum

sold

on the U.S. mainland.

extinct, the sugar industry

for the islands' racial

makeup and

is

primarily responsible

language. Most of the inhabitants

of the Virgin Islands are descended from the African slaves and

who worked

contract laborers

seers of the plantations

the old plantations. Because the over-

were English, Scottish, and

the workers

Irish,

adopted the English language. St.

Thomas

is

probably the best

known

Thirteen miles long and four miles wide, square miles, almost exactly the

size

it

of the islands today.

comprises twenty-eight

of Manhattan.

The

capital city

of the island, Charlotte Amalie, nestles above a spectacular natural

harbor on the south side of the island. Yachts and sailboats swing on their

moorings along the shore, and majestic cruise ships from

the world

lie at

The main

industry of the islands today

on tourism

over a billion. Most of the income is

over

anchor further out.

quarter of a billion dollars

Everything

all

is

is

tourism.

They earn

every year and have a

GNP

due to their free-port

sold without taxes. Tourists get a bonus;

a

of

status.

an extra $400,

doubling the limit of tax-free goods on returning to the United States.

Shops

line

both

sides of

Main

Street for several blocks

waterfront.

Good

restaurants

and

and crowd

down

to the

lively bistros are scattered

among

against each other in the narrow alleys that slope

the shops along the waterfront, completing the portrait of Charlotte

Amalie

as a busy

and cosmopolitan center of commerce, government,

and entertainment.

There seem

to be

many more

Catholics aboard this time than

during the Christmas cruise. And, of course, there are always others

though they aren't Catholic. The movie tonight was Platoon. Really bloody and full of obscenities. If they had eliminated the four- letter words, there would have been almost no dialogue

who

join us, even

at all.

185

TRAVELS WITH TED SUNDAY, JANUARY Charlotte Amalie,

JL

his

is

We

Thomas

St.

bought a couple of tropical

guayaberas, for under seven dollars, a few toilet articles,

some scotch

some more books, and

for

knew

shirts,

about six dollars,

a couple of very attractive

who collect them. me so long to get the

Lladros for Helen and Pat, our secretaries,

little

I

started another book, since

it's

Jerusalem Institute started.

Ned and hundred

It's

taking

now

Russian frigate around the world (I'm

by Walter Burghardt, an old

on,

7

1

the third time we'd been in Charlotte Amalie, so we

where to do our shopping.

tell

NED

&

in

China). This

who

Jesuit friend

The Art and

called Preaching:

a

need

days, so we're going to

already that Walter's excellent

the help

all

book

is

the Craft.

not being well prepared.

is

my

Route

to

I

common

I

learned was that

dent on Election 88.

far,

and the decks were

nominated and

elected. Later

1

it

The

never be a computer expert. After

He answered

—demurring only when

full

took the opportunity' to learn some-

I'll

adroitly

of

18

attended a lecture by Herbert Kaplow,

1

can

Early

fault

thing about word processing at a lecture in the computer center.

main thing

1

Cartagena

JL his turned out to be the nicest day so of people sunning themselves.

lot.

homilies.

MONDAY. JANUARY En

get.

decided then and there to

I

concentrate especially hard on preparing

we can

going to help a

he makes one very good point: the most

lunch

book

are going to be preaching every other day for the next

I

preachers

is

helped us get our

ABC

news correspon-

a lot of tough questions very

came

to predicting

who would

be

spent an hour walking the deck and

preparing the homily for tonight's Mass. We're

100 and 150 people every day for Mass and

it's

now up

to

between

a great opportunity to

preach the Word.

We

had

to

change from our usual place in the Princess Grill

tonight because someone objected to our cigars.

an area cigars

at the other side of the

and welcomed

us.

Our

We

were moved into

room where everybody

else

smoked

friends at the old location said they were

186

THEODORE

M.

going to put on a revolution and

want

didn't

us to leave.

taken with

Some

But there

us.

speed walking,

1

a

little

all start

smoking

cigars because they

them came over to have their always someone who objects

of

is

thinking that cigar smokers are

While doing

HESBURGH

just a

pictures loudly,

notch above mass murderers.

exercise around the deck today in high-

ran into a couple

Notre Dame. They said they

just

who had six children graduate from me to say thanks. thanked

stopped

1

them!

TUESDAY, JANUARY

19

Cartagena, Colombia

e visited

are

woke up this morning in the harbor, but since we had here on the Christmas cruise, we decided not to go ashore.

now en

My

Frigate "Pallada. "

and

tightly written that

However,

I

greatest

While

The

it.

We

route to Puerto Limon, Costa Rica's Atlantic port, a short

run from Cartagena.

with

just

it

it is

achievement of the day was finishing only 650 pages long,

it is

was impossible to make very

so closely

much speed He passed

did get the author back across Siberia.

through Irkutsk in the center of the continent, where we

I

had picked

up the Trans-Siberian Express from Moscow to Beijing a few years ago.

At the time,

a small group of Notre

Dame

people were arranging for

peace students from the then U.S.S.R. and China.

coming each

We still have them

year.

begun a new book by Jim Michener, Sayonara. I'm particuinterested in it because it's about a Japanese- American marriage,

I've larly

which

is

what the Micheners'

is.

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY

20

Puerto Limon, Costa Rica

C5 ome of our fellow passengers

took off this morning for a four-hour

bus trip into San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. Since we had been there only a couple of

and tour

this port

months

town

we decided to stay with the We did it on foot, which is the

ago,

instead.

187

ship best

TRAVELS WITH TED way of doing

except that

it,

it

NED

&

was about 90 degrees

in the shade,

and

there was ver>' Uttle shade.

Puerto

Limon

town with

a typical port

is

lots of

tmcks coming

and going and huge numbers of containers up and down the docks being loaded and unloaded from ships. Outside our porthole were a

number

of containers from Russia. Bananas

here, together with

of tropical

all sorts

seem

fruit.

We

to be the big deal

through the

strolled

food market, then visited the local supermarket, where we bought

such things

potato chips, shaving cream, shoe polish,

as toothpaste,

and notebooks. Everything seemed quite cheap here, about half of

what the

We

cost

would be

home.

at

which was very clean and neat

also visited the local church,

and rather

modem

The Christmas creche was

in design.

which seemed strange on January

done, so we're glad we managed to see

My

However,

20. it.

turn to preach at Mass tonight, so

thought to what

I'll

say.

I

think

I've

been giving some

on the Mass,

talk

I'll

probably never heard a sermon on the Mass. People are

invite

them

We

since

many

over a hundred people coming every day and

stopping for a chat.

up,

still

was beautifully

it

we have

of

them have

still

constantly

often turn up nonpracticing Catholics and

to our service.

I

also spent

some time with

a lady

who

is

slowly dying o{ cancer. I'm glad that she can enjoy the sunshine we've

been having today.

We

are scheduled to leave here about 6 P.M.

(actually Port

Lemon

in English),

entrance to the Panama Canal.

wonders

ot the world.

It

it's

The

From Puerto Limon

only a short run to the Atlantic canal

is

one of the engineering

spans the hfty-mile width of the Isthmus of

Panama, joining the world's two great oceans. The Isthmus was known

Columbus, but

to Christopher

Balboa in 1513, eleven years 1534, Charles

V

it

was

after

first

explored by Niinez de

Columbus saw

of Spain had a survey

made

for a

it.

Way back

happened, however, until 1880, when Ferdinand de Lesseps, built the Suez

Canal, came here

Company. Nine in the attempt

to start

work

in

canal. Nothing

tor the

who

French Canal

years later, after tens of thousands of people

and the company had spent $300 million,

it

had died

went into

bankruptcy.

The United

States obtained the French rights for

$40 million.

After the Hay-Herran Treaty was signed in 1903, the Colombian

188

THEODORE Senate refused to

ratify

Panama disengaged

so

it,

HESBURGH

M.

itself

from Colombia

with some machinations on our part and confirmed the treaty in

The treaty gave us possession in perpetuity of a ten-mile strip across Panama so that we could build the canal. We promised to pay Panama $10 million in gold and $250,000 a year forever. This went 1904.

on and increased ten times

over. Recently,

we agreed

Canal Zone and the operation of the canal over

on the

to turn

to the

both the

Panamanians

day of this millennium, December 31, 1999.

last

As everybody knows, two

colonels really were important in the

building of the canal, William Gorgas, the diseases and making

life

it,

took care of getting

somewhat more

who

construction, and George Goethals,

$380 million into

who

livable

rid of

during the

did the engineering.

We

put

not bad considering that the French put in $300

million and failed.

As

for the canal itself,

feet deep.

QE2 and

It

it's

50.7 miles long, 110 feet wide, and 41

has twelve locks, each of them 1,000 feet long.

transits the locks there six inches

on each

is

side.

just

As

the

about a yard to spare at each end

The QE2

pays over $100,000 to go

when it arrives even month ahead of time.

through the canal, and generally gets preference

though

it

has to

make an appointment

a

THURSDAY. JANUARY

21

Panama Canal

e arrived at the

mouth

of the canal and the twin ports of

Colon around dawn. There were a number of ships stacked there in formation, but we entered the canal first because we pay more than anyone else and we have had a date for this hour for Cristobal and

we broke the record for paying at the canal, handing over a check for more than $106,000. Since the QE2 was refurbished, there is a little more usable profitable space more than

a

month. In

aboard and that It

is

fact,

today

what one pays

for.

was a wonderfiil experience seeing

this

67,000-ton vessel glide

from one ocean to another with seeming ease. The transit took about

As mentioned, we entered the canal on the Atlantic side. miles later, we went through the Gatun Lock, which in three brought us 85 feet above sea level of the Atlantic. Then we

nine hours.

A few steps

189

TRAVELS WITH TED traveled

&

NED

on our own power through Gatun Lake, which

is

man-made.

Next was the famous Gaillard Cut, an eight-mile excavation through the solid rock of the Continental Divide. Following that,

we went

through the Pedro Miguel Lock, which lowered us 3 1 feet to Miraflores

came the Miraflores Locks and in two again 54 feet down to the Pacific Ocean. Four miles reached the terminus at Balboa on the Pacific. Lake. After that

The most

interesting thing about this operation

done by water, which moves by For each ship that goes through,

and

all

or in

of

has to

it

Madden

come from

from one

gravity

steps,

after

is

we were that, we

that

it

is

all

level to the other.

takes 52 million gallons of water,

it

rainwater caught either in

Gatun Lake

Lake, or from the water draining into the lakes from

the upper Chagres River.

We

will

be in the Pacific for the next two months or so until we

pass through here in the other direction

stop

is

on our way home. Our next

Acapulco, a distance of over 1,500 miles from here. We'll pass

the coastlines of Panama, Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Gua-

We

temala, and finally the Pacific coast of Mexico.

much

at

home

we

here, because

both

feel very

visited all these countries just last

September.

FRIDAY, JANUARY En Route A. his morning we woke up to

The

Pacific

is

living

up to

its

to

as

22

Acapulco

calm a sea

name.

A

as

we have seen

so

far.

whole school of dolphins was

number of ships, mainly tankers, passed by en route to Panama. Off the starboard side, we see long rows of mountains on the coastline, as well as a number of islands out at sea. cavorting off the port side as a

It's

a beautiful sunny day, with the temperature in the high 80s.

finished Sayonara before turning in last night,

Allan Bloom's The Closing of Burghardt's Preaching.

morning,

I

While

the I

I

and now I'm beginning

American Mind and continuing with

was up on the sports deck reading

ran into Herb Kaplow.

this

We had a two-hour bull session out

known each other for a long time, going 1950s and the 1960s when I was on the Civil Rights

in the sun.

He and

back to the

late

I

have

Commission.

190

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

SATURDAY, JANUARY En

e

woke up

Route

23

Acapulco

to

to another flawless day, clear light blue sky, reasonably

calm, deep blue water, and sunshine everywhere. We're out of sight

but

of land,

we do

and see some porpoises company from time to time. I decided to breakfast, one on computer programming and

pass occasional ships

skipping along to keep us skip

two lectures

after

on Acapulco.

the other

Closing of the

Instead,

American Mind. At

I

read the

P.M. today,

I

few chapters of The

first

we had an

international

foodfest,

which meant that the

was

with tables replete with every conceivable type of food from

filled

largest dining

room, the Mauritania,

every culture. Several hundred people descended

on

it,

and

in almost

no time everything was gone.

We

continue to meet about twenty new people every day. This

name department, since most of them will Los Angeles. Then another 900 or so will descend upon

gets a bit difficult in the

be leaving in us

and

we'll start learning

names

all

over again.

SUNDAY, JANUARY

24

Acapulco, Mexico

were met in Acapulco by Carlos Pamplona, Coca-Cola's

e

number two

public relations

man

in Mexico.

He

presented us with a

wonderful copper plate depicting the Calendario, the great calendar stone of the Aztecs.

He then took

three cruise ships in port, was in

The

shape at the moment.

swing. Mexico

I

there for

many

seemed

is

in

bad financial

peso has fallen to a low of about 2,200 to

remember when the exchange

a dollar.

It

us to the local market, which, with

full

rate

was 12.5 and

it

stayed

years.

to get hotter as the day

curve of the bay

down

went on.

to the Princess Hotel.

We

It's

drove around the

built like

an early

Aztec or Mayan pyramid, hollow on the inside with an enormous lobby rising up to the roof, some thirty floors up.

and lobby, which

is

also has a

it

and one of the most beautiful

They pump

seawater through the gardens

wonderful tropical garden surrounding

beaches one could imagine.

It

quite a spectacular sight.

191

They make the

best

TRAVELS WITH TED pina coladas in the world here.

We

NED

&

were quite dehydrated by now, so

we stopped to have one. Then we drove over to Las Brisas, where we met the QE2 tour group at the beachfront restaurant. Las Brisas is a very interesting hotel too. All the accommodations are

bungalows called

casitas,

MONDAY, JANUARY En JL oday we

will

little cliffside

most with their own private pools.

Route

25

Los Angeles

to

be crossing the bottom of the Gulf of California to

Baja California, passing by those wonderful places like Las Cruces,

San

Cabo, and San Lucas, the southernmost

Jose del

have

many happy memories

fourteen Christmas vacations

and Charlie Jones.

1

1

down

here with

my

little

only wish we could

I

come

church perched on the

the airstrip at Las Cruces, where

offered Christmas

1

Smith

friends C. R.

described these places at greater length in

could see the

1

of this part of the world, having spent

book, God, Country, hlotre Dame. the shore so

city in Baja.

my

last

closer to

hillside

above

Midnight Mass

for fourteen years running.

Reading Bloom's book again, I'm finding him to be a grim prophet

who somewhat overstates his now that he's getting

getting tougher

case,

I

think.

into the

And

German

the book

is

philosophical

precedents for our current dilemma, the false prophets, Nietzsche,

Weber, Freud, Heidegger, thinks they

all

etc.,

We

when one raised

He

brought us to the moral relativity that pervades the

academic scene today. Relativity of death

not to forget Hegel and Marx.

gets to values

$450

in

is

O.K. in

physics, but

it is

the kiss

and morals.

church collections over the weekend

Apostolate of the Sea. That's only slightly

less

for the

than we did at

Midnight Mass. The congregation seems to get bigger each day, although we only take up collections on Sunday. the

New

It

will

be sad to see

York-Fort Lauderdale-Los Angeles group get off the day after

tomorrow. They have been the core of our congregation and have

grown

steadily.

As

1

wander around the deck

and a guayabera, almost everybody talked to it

says,

some people who were having

would look peculiar

in a pair of white trunks

"Hi, Father." This morning spiritual

to the Fathers of the

192

am

sure

to see

me

problems.

Church

1

1

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

and a

discussing prayer, marriage, alcoholism,

variety of other things

clad only in a guayabera and a pair of tennis shorts. However, the

important thing

is

the message, not the messenger, or what he's

wearing.

TUESDAY, JANUARY En

Wk,hen we turned out

Route

to

Los Angeles

morning,

this

26

it

was about twenty degrees

colder than the 85- and 90-degree temperatures we've been used to,

and windy. For the

how ship.

first

time in weeks,

1

a change in temperature alters the

When

it's

put on a jacket.

whole tempo of

hot and balmy, the decks are

It's

life

amazing

on

this

of people lying

full

around in shorts and bikinis getting sunburned. The moment the temperature drops, the decks are deserted and people are inside taking

advantage of

all

the indoor activities aboard the ship. There

is

bingo

with a $5,000 final-day pot. There are lectures on everything from astrology to investments.

There

10,000 books that go with

it.

the library and the wonderful

is

There

is

the Golden Spa, which offers

a wide range of athletic activity. There's even a course

might expect in Los Angeles. This activities of various kinds, is

to get

my

in addition to about fifteen other

is

and about ten

two good books and

my

bars.

had a

fine

Mass today.

My answer to all of this

Breviary and go up

prayers said for the day, light a good cigar,

We

It

on what one

and

on the deck,

start reading.

was Ned's birthday and the

who were getting sermon, telling those who were

get

last

Los Angeles.

day

gave

aboard for the passengers

off in

a nostalgic

leaving us in Los Angeles

how much we had

1

enjoyed seeing this Christian community sponta-

They really are an extraordinary group. They sang "Happy Birthday" to Ned at Mass and gave him a cake. After Mass, many of them came up with other gifts to help us along the neously form on board.

way.

We

have to change cabins tomorrow. Our new one

down and

smaller, but at least

it's

is

an outside cabin. The

the bishop are being changed too, and we're

now

all

and

together along

the same corridor, which the crew calls "the Holy Land."

193

one deck rabbi

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY

27

Long Beach, California

I

looked out of the porthole at 5:30 A.M.

into our anchorage in

Long Beach.

parking in the middle of a

city.

The

Actually,

tugs were pushing us

San Pedro.

it's

Anyway, today

is

moving

like

It's

day.

took

It

down a floor to our new cabin. 1 had a call from one of our alumni who took care of us in Mexico City, Juan Cintron. He said that they were putting us about

two hours to get

all

of our accumulated stuff

thirteen cases of wine aboard. Juan

is

joining the ship in Singapore

with fourteen of his colleagues, but he said we should

meantime

Wines,

on earth we could bathroom

in the

is

arriving here

from his company,

Inc., out of Tustin, California.

possibly get thirteen cases of

we couldn't

In fact,

wine that

to dip into the

New World

get

one

in,

since the

little

feel free in the

There

wine into

is

no way

this cabin.

wine we have

is

stashed

moment. Anyway, I think we have conned it in a comer of his storage room, tight with stored things in there at the moment.

at this

the baggagemaster into putting

although he's pretty

When we came

in to dinner

our original places on sitting

next to

aboard and

me

will

we found we were changed back

to

Who

is

the other side of the Princess Grill.

but Ruby Keeler of Hollywood fame. She just

came

be giving a lecture or two. She's getting along in years

now, but who could ever forget Ruby Keeler and her dancing? even us

hummed

Ned said that's what time when they moved us to

a couple of songs together, but

thrown out of

other end of the

this place the last grill,

not our

cigars.

We got

the

Anyway, we're back. We've

decided to give up cigar smoking in the restaurant voluntarily, even

though anyway,

it's

allowed.

as a small bit of

When we so far.

We

It's

next stop.

were planning to give up cigars for Lent penance.

leave L. A.

we

will begin the longest leg of our journey

3,561 nautical miles between here and Papeete, Tahiti, our It

will take us all of five days

194

and nights

to get there.

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

THURSDAY, JANUARY

28

At Sea

I

through the second of three sections in Bloom's The

finally got

Closing of the American Mind.

It's

very philosophical and every page

seems to be replete with Rousseau, Kant, Hegel, Nietzsche, Marx,

and Descartes, and a host of

others.

Bloom

philosophical foundations for the current state of

Again,

1

had the impression,

mind

as in the first part, that

overdoing somewhat and stroking

it

was interesting,

He

if

trying to lay the

is

difficult reading.

America.

in

he

is

probably

with too broad a brush. But really

American minds

for bringing in the nihilistic ideas of Nietzsche to

a kind of new nihilism, without

and educators and thus leading us into

and

values, without philosophical foundations that are demonstrable

even without reason, not to mention university

and I'm sure

Ned and no

1

I'll

faith.

His third part

on the

is

find that a lot easier going.

both are trying to eat

something

breakfast, lunch

it

blames Weber and Freud

as lightly as possible; practically

like today's

V8

juice, quiche,

and a

bit

of carrot cake without the frosting. Tonight we're having some Dover sole

which they bought

Mass

in Los Angeles.

in the evening before dinner.

the deck, which are a

fifth

aboard ship, unless you

even though

I

Nothing alcoholic

just did a

1

until after

number of turns around

of a mile each time.

It's

the best exercise

like riding a stationary bicycle,

which

I

don't,

once did over 3,000 miles on one, to strengthen

my

knee muscles. Ugh.

FRIDAY, JANUARY En Route

I

t

to

was overcast again today, which

29

Papeete

is

probably good for our collective

sun in the past week or

so.

There was also a bit of quartering wind out of the northeast.

At

skins, since we've

been getting a

lot of

noontime, the closest land, 600 miles to the

east,

was Cabo San

Lucas, Baja California.

This morning the rabbi, the bishop, Ned, and

who was

interested to

come

to

I

invited everyone

the Queen's Lounge,

where we

introduced ourselves and then broke up into four groups, one

195

in

each

TRAVELS WITH TED

meet some of the passengers more

comer of the room,

to get to

intimately and to get

some of them

after the others left.

talk

to

meet each

encounter came two persons with problems

little

on the South but

visiting),

it

1

had planned on going

Pacific (he's

An

under reasonable control,

other.

who

to hear

Out

of that

stayed behind

Waldemar Hansen

our onboard expert for the lands we're

seemed more important

two new "parishioners."

NED

&

hour or two

spend the time with

to

we had both

later

my

situations

thought. Always good to talk out problems

I

with a third party. 1

managed

to read the opening chapters of Robert Hughes's

Fatal Sfwre, a beautifully written

We

had a

book on

great conversation with

us a great deal about her early days in started.

The

Australia.

Ruby Keeler

New

tonight.

York and

how

She

told

her career

During the course of the conversation we decided that

all

of

the top show people are either Catholics or Jews.

The

captain,

who

spending a good deal of time on public

is

relations, introduced the rabbi tonight as Father

Ruben. He made a

good recovery, though,

saying, "I'm sorry he's not really a father, but

he

Alvin

is

a grandfather."

demotion?" All

I

said to us,

"Is

SATURDAY, JANUARY En Route

A,

.nother cloudy day as

to

we head

which

trade winds run

is

into the doldrums,

moment. We've been

less

when

is

sailing ships

first

on the northeast

The

and the stronger they

within the doldrums. That made for great

depended on the wind alone. They could

We

doldrums at about 27 knots, being now

We

believe we're about 9

traveling

sides of the doldrums,

languish here for days, even weeks.

from the

1

which extend

perfect for us because we're going southwest.

on both

wind there

blow, the difficulty

30

Papeete

10 degrees north and south of the equator. degrees north at the trade wind,

that a promotion or

could say was "We're glad to have you."

of the South Sea

are plowing through the

just a little

islands, the

over 1,000 miles

Marquesas.

lectures on the painter Paul Gauguin today, one by Waldemar Hansen and a second by an art historian on board. Both were excellent, and of particular interest now, because we're headed

had two

196

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

toward Tahiti, where Gauguin painted a

He was

lot of his pictures.

broke most of his Ufe. Ironically, his paintings

now

sell for

$40 to $50

million each.

The

farther

we

are from port, the

more

seem

activities there

to

be aboard ship. Today, in addition to the two Gauguin programs, there was a fashion show, a lecture by sports broadcaster

on how

to root for the

Chicago Cubs, a course

athletic activities, a Spanish class,

and financial planning. activities

on

me

she'll

in carving, all kinds of

lectures

on computers,

bridge,

one didn't skip about 90 percent of the would really get hectic.

cocktail party this noon,

1

met

a

woman who

told

be dead from cancer within a year or two. That makes two

such persons in two days. Both are facing

them

Elliott

If

this ship, life

At the French

and

Win

face

it

One

even better.

oneself, to cherish every day of

it

quite well.

hope

I

needs to be at peace with

and

life,

to live

helped

1

God and

each day to the

fullest,

even as we are trying to do in retirement.

SUNDAY, JANUARY En Route

'e

had some excitement

the equator, where

we

at

are at

around

New

I

1

to Papeete

noontime because we degree.

south of the equator, beginning at the South Pole.

3

1

passed

officially

From now on, everything

calculate that we'll get to 45 degrees south as

Zealand and Australia.

It's

is

degree and increasing to 90 at

we go

about the latitude of Patagonia

and southern Chile, although those places stretch another 12 degrees farther south, almost to

60 degrees.

Crossing the equator gathered

on the

aft

is

always a time for great fun.

deck by the swimming pool.

We

all

Men and women

members of the crew were brought out under guard and presented to his queen. He ordered them to kiss a dead fish,

King Neptune and

which

in this case

was a salmon, presumably from the kitchen. Then

they were doused with ketchup, mustard, eggs, whipped cream, and a variety of other

into the pool. cates saying It's

gooey concoctions, shoved into a

At the conclusion of the

festivities,

we were pollywogs, people who

about the twentieth time for me.

197

seat,

we

and dumped

all

got

certifi-

had crossed the equator.

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

Between halves of the Super Bowl, which we had on a call that a rosary.

woman who was

When

took

I

a patient in the ship's hospital

to her

it

could see that she was

I

talked for a while and she seemed

the rosary, just praying say the least.

I

it

radio,

more

was told that her son would be

is

had

wanted a

failing.

at peace. Interesting

and moving from bead to bead

I

We

about

settling, to

flying out to Tahiti to

take her home.

MONDAY, FEBRUARY En

Route

-Loday we reached the Polynesian sweep of

triangle with is

its

triangle,

which

is

an enormous

thousands of miles across and thousands of miles

islands,

down, with three basic This

1

to Papeete

divisions, raainly ethnic.

New

points in Hawaii,

Imagine an enormous

Zealand, and Easter Island.

the Polynesian triangle, Polynesian meaning

The people here have

a very similar culture

"many

islands."

and are generally

lighter-

skinned and with black wavy hair. T) the west of Polynesia Melanesia, also a Greek word, meaning

people are darker and have

frizzy hair.

of course, west of Polynesia,

We

islands."

Moorea

will

is

"black islands."

is

Here the

To the north of Melanesia and,

Micronesia, the Greek word for "small

be visiting Polynesia, which contains Tahiti and

in the Society Islands,

Raro tonga in the Cook

under French

Islands, related to-

political control,

New

Zealand.

We

and were

originally scheduled to go to Fiji, but because of political unrest there

we

are going instead to Rarotonga.

which can be designated by great islands of Australia

and

To the south of

a generic

New

all

these islands,

name, Oceania,

lie

Zealand, with the smaller island of

Tasmania below Australia to the south of Melbourne in the Victoria.

Many

of these islands are

are related to Australia,

New

the two

now independent

state of

countries; others

Zealand, France, England, or the United

States.

198

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

TUESDAY, FEBRUARY

2

Papeete, Tahiti

I

looked out the porthole at 7 A.M. and already we were entering

the harbor of Papeete, skirting the its

reef.

Moorea was miles behind

joined by the narrow isthmus of Tarawa, which gives

it

a real figure-

eight shape. After looking at the rolling sea for six nights

morning

early

sky.

was reminded of the

I

my

1969 with Doc Kenna,

whole island visit

and

five

those volcanoes look startling and very beautiful against the

days,

in

us,

volcanic top rising up out of the sea. Tahiti has two volcanoes

tour,

first

time

I

came

provincial. Because

I

It

was

had done the

didn't take the tour this morning.

I

here.

It is

the

first

here for Ned, however, so he went.

About 10 A.M., which

is

I

left

a couple of miles

the ship and started to walk into Papeete,

from the dock.

It

was about 100 degrees in

the shade and there wasn't any shade along that dockside road.

wasn't sure

would make

I

it,

because

it

kept getting hotter and hotter

and the black asphalt didn't help any expensive.

I

either.

Everything

is

very

stopped at the bank to change twenty dollars into

I

Polynesian francs and had to pay a three-dollar service charge on the transaction.

A mai tai,

Around noon,

I

a tropical drink, cost eight dollars.

met some people from the

to have lunch together at a little

French restaurant

Everything was wonderful until the us.

A

bit

bill

we decided up on a hilltop.

ship and

—$250

arrived

for the five of

much, even considering that we had a round of mai

addition to the wine.

I

had planned

to take

Ned

tais in

out for dinner at one

of the reefside French restaurants this evening, but after a look at the prices, last

we decided

year and

prices have

it

is

to stay

on

board. Tourism declined 30 percent here

supposed to go even lower this year. Perhaps the

something to do with

dollar. Despite the prices,

it,

or perhaps this reflects the falling

however, there's no denying that this

is

one

of the most charming and exotic places in the world.

A lot of Tahitians came aboard tonight to put on a cultural show on the top deck. The music was

so-so

and the dancing was

typical hip

gyrating, the Tahitian equivalent of Egyptian belly dancing,

which

are

more

evening with a vault.

The

athletic than aesthetic.

full

moon and

was

a lovely

down from

the black

However,

bright stars shining

it

night sky out here has a very special charm.

199

both of

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY

3

Moorea

e left Papeete

around 6 A.M. and crossed to Moorea. The bay

here was immortalized in the musical South

and

Pacific,

easy to

it's

understand why. Moorea has to be one of the most enchanting islands in the

South

With

Pacific.

coconut palms, banana

an

idyllic place.

Like

many

glistening white beaches, fringed by

its

trees,

and high serrated mountains,

of

its sister

islands,

it

it is

bom

was

truly

about six

million years ago as a huge volcano.

Ned

early

left

on the

launches about an hour

launch than

man

I

tour and

official

later.

I

I

went

in with

one of our

had no sooner disembarked from the

spotted four Americans getting into an outrigger.

was a Frenchman.

at the tiller

going, but since

had no

I

plans,

asked them

I

The

had no idea where they were

I

if

they had

room

for

one more. The Frenchman called out a friendly "out" and welcomed

me

aboard.

The

four

was a Parisian

Americans were two

named

Oliver.

his wife seven years ago

using

all

we

The Frenchman

me he had come

conch

shell

woman came

as close as

to Tahiti with

and had reconstructed an entire native

now me,

to visit

At each

sailed along the coast.

take out a village a

retired couples.

told

the original materials and native craftsmen.

the four Americans, and reef as

He

and blow

it

to

it.

village,

He was

taking

Oliver stayed inside the

village

we

he would

passed,

announce our

arrival.

At one

out and waved. Oliver brought the outrigger in

he could, then jumped out, waded ashore, and carried the

woman back

to the boat.

When we

reached the

two stout

village,

workers came out and did the carrying. Oliver took us

all

around the village to show us how the Tahitians

coconut tree and threw down some them open, then drank the milk and ate the meat. Both were delicious. Next came one of those Polynesian dancing shows, which always anesthetize me. 1 managed to stay awake, but I was glad when it was over. After the dancing we strolled along lived.

He even climbed

fresh green coconuts.

the beach.

It

a sixty-foot

We

split

was a great spur-of-the-moment outing, but

I

was glad

to get back to the ship and shower after spending the morning in 100-

degree heat.

200

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

to

JL he highlight of today's shipboard Second

Street,

was a showing of Forty-

activities

with an introduction by Ruby Keeler. She told us that

was not only her

this

4

Rarotonga

first

movie but

also the

first

movie of her co-

Dick Powell. They made fourteen more movies together

star,

that, so the

box

office return

way Ruby

see the

practically

was obviously very good.

had

to be carried

on and

It

after

was sad to

off the stage;

sadder yet to realize that she was once the sparkling young tap dancer in the movie. all.

She was

a real trouper to endure the awkwardness of

on the human body. But

of time

lesson from Ruby's indomitable

old

it

I'm sure her presence must have reminded everyone of the ravages

same time, we could

at the

spirit.

all

take a

She was the embodiment of the

show business adage that the show must go on.

FRIDAY. FEBRUARY Rarotonga

Th

his

supposed to be the most beautiful of the

is

Cook

Islands,

named after the famous captain who first discovered them The fifteen islands in the group are scattered over a vast expanse of 850,000 square miles. Fewer than 20,000 people live on which

are

in the 1770s.

the islands, and about half of them, most of live in

when

Rarotonga.

The

whom

are Polynesians,

islands belonged to the British until 1901,

they turned them over to

New

Zealand. In 1965, they became

internally self-governing, although they are, in fact, a kind of protectorate of affairs,

Zealand, which takes care of their defense and foreign

and provides certain

actually

the

New

more Cook

Cook

We

subsidies,

Islanders living in

as well as jobs.

New

There are

Zealand than there are in

Islands.

woke up

Rarotonga

reef.

going ashore.

just before

the ship reached

its

After breakfast, we boarded the

anchorage outside first

ship's tender

Two things struck me right away: how friendly the how clean the town was. 1 found out later that

people were and cleanliness officially

is

taken very seriously here. Every house on the island

inspected every three months.

201

If it is

is

not clean and well

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

the occupants receive a fine and a mention in the local

kept,

newspaper, as well as on the radio.

Ned and

visited the local Catholic

I

we met Father

Paul Farmer, a

New

church and school, where

Zealander, and a friend of John

who

Mackay, the former Bishop of Auckland,

is

Notre

a

Father Farmer had us talk to his high school students,

the middle of a geometry well in school

and come

class.

tried to persuade

1

Dame Ph.D. who were in

them

to

Dame. I'm reasonably

to Notre

do very

sure that

come to Notre Dame from here. name means "down south" is oval-shaped. The

we've never had a student

—

Rarotonga, the

whole island in

it

is

surrounded by a coral

where ships can

enter.

One

is

reef,

but there are two openings

near the town of Avarua.

The

other, to the south, has a beautiful sandy beach with a ring of very

small islands outside

We is

it.

drove around the entire circumference of the island, which

a journey of about nineteen miles.

It's

covered with jagged volcanic

peaks interspersed with deep valleys and tropical beautiful tropical flowers everywhere, mostly red

hibiscus

and frangipani, both of which come

different varieties.

and on

In gardens

laden with breadfruit,

erel,

and mullet

sees

and yellow, such

in

more than

large farms there

bananas, and pineapples. There

They catch mainly

off the south coast of the island.

One

forest.

inside the coral reef. Fortunately,

is

as

fifteen

were trees

good

fishing

snapper, mack-

most of the sharks

stay outside.

We built in

also visited the island's

first

Christian church, which was

1835 and has some very interesting tombstones, both in

On our way back to

Polynesian and in quaint English.

we stopped

at the

Rarotongan

the anchorage,

resort hotel, very tropical

and very

nice. There we saw an hourlong show by some local singers and

They began with a prayer and ended by singing the Our Father in Polynesian, which was very beautiful indeed. On the whole,

dancers.

it

was the best performance we've seen so

As on

the other islands

Society got an early start

There

are, of course.

priests are rather rare.

we have

far.

seen, the

London Missionary

and most of the people are Protestants.

Catholic churches on

all

of these islands, but

There were none on Moorea, although there

were two Catholic churches there.

We

202

met

a

young seminarian here

THEODORE He

today.

HESBURGH

M.

told us that there are about a

seminary in

Fiji, all

Just to give

from

some

men

hundred young

in the

this vast area of small islands.

idea of

where we

are in relation to other places

we have been and ago,

are heading for: Papeete, which we left two days 816 miles east-northeast of here. Auckland, to which we now

is

head,

2,155 miles south-southwest of here. Sydney

is

southwest, and Tokyo

is

isolated little island far

own and

from everywhere, but

3,699 miles is

indeed an

has a beauty

all its

a kind of peace that can't be found in cities. In the

whole

history of the islands, only five murders have rare,

is

6,810 miles northwest. This it

been recorded.

are

Jails

and those they do have allow prisoners to go home on weekends

to be with their families.

We tonight.

Sunday

have an interesting theological problem for Friday Mass

There won't be any Saturday, since we jump from Friday at

midnight crossing the international date

Does Friday night Mass count

for

Sunday?

1

say

it

does

line. if

to

Question:

you're passing

the date line and losing Saturday entirely. But the question

is

largely

academic, because most of our 100-plus parishioners will come to

Mass again on Sunday anyway.

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY En

u

Route

to

Auchland

ed was up early this morning for Sunday morning Mass.

me

in time

night.

last

tells

Keeping up with local time becomes quite a

problem because the international date is

He

he had a good congregation too, despite another half-hour change

not exactly

at the

here they stretch

it

180th meridian

all

line,

170 degrees,

England, from which

180 degrees

is

all

today,

Out

the way north and south.

10 degrees east so that

can be within the same time zone. Thus we date line at

which we crossed

Fiji

and the Tonga Islands

will cross the international

rather than at

180.

From Greenwich,

time and longitudinal lines are reckoned,

exactly halfway around the world.

We

are

now

a bit

more than 25 degrees south of the equator, going through the Tropic of Capricorn.

Today we watched O'Hara's Wife, a prize-winning film by Bartman,

who

Bill

eats at the table next to ours in the Princess Grill.

203

It

TRAVELS WITH TED me

provided

with a closing thought for

was so well done generally that

Dame

to advise us

we

dinner,

and

Bill's film

come

to Notre

Her

and

left

arm

and some help from

us,

she

left leg

quite well.

had some rain

this afternoon

rain we've seen since leaving

spectacular, as

was

it

all

and evening.

New

summer and

we can count the bad days on the

been many blessings on

practically the

It's

The weather when we were

has been

York. fall

through the West in the United States and far,

to

singers were performing. Because of

difficulty in walking.

are almost useless, but with her cane

We

him

on films for the International Peace Institute. After Ruby Keeler down to the theater lounge, where

her stroke, she has great

first

homily tonight.

I've invited

escorted

four Australian- Irish players

managed

my

NED

&

later in Latin

fingers of

traveling

America. So

one hand. There have good weather

this trip, but the incredibly

stands out.

MONDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

to

8

Auckland

e passed 30 degrees south early this morning.

winds

for the

just off

first

By 9 A.M. the

time switched around to west-southwest, hitting us

our port bow. We've had helping trade winds thus

we're in the variables, where

winds. We've

we

come some 1,046

will probably pick

far,

but

miles since leaving Rarotonga a day

and a half ago, leaving us 565 miles yet to go to the Bay of

which

is

outside Auckland,

worked up

all

is

602 pages of It

it.

deck

for a

1

few rounds this morning.

about 76 degrees and heading up toward 80.

finally finished

system."

Islands,

Zealand. Despite the strong wind,

a sweat just walking the

The temperature 1

New

now

up some head

It

Robert Hughes's The Fatal Shore is

a brilliant history of

ended on January

10,

this

morning,

what was called "the

1868, eighty years to the

since Captain Arthur Philip brought the

first

convict

fleet

month to

its

anchorage in Sydney Cove. Over 160,000 convicts, in fact lifelong slaves,

were shipped to Australia, 45,000 of them being

Irish political

They were sent to Australia because American independence prevented them from being sent to America. The system had a deep effect on the history of Australia. At its prisoners.

204

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

centenary in 1888, the country buried that part of

first

No

celebrated the future. optimistic about

We

when

doubt Australians

past

its

and

have even more to be

will

they celebrate their second century shortly.

Americans have our own sad memories of

slavery. Legally

it

began to end, in the South, in 1863 with Lincoln's Emancipation Proclamation. But it did not end institutionally until the Civil Rights

Act of 1964, better than

on

of our system linger

in the

is

revolution in

I

am

America was

we

sure all

long-term

its

This

will.

and

But we

effects.

what the

is

civil rights

about during the 1960s.

TUESDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

9

Auckland

to

I spent most of the morning on deck reading Bloom. sailing

effects

of our black

institutionalized injustice

not easy for the victims to escape

must keep trying and

many

plight of so

population. Slavery, white or black, it's

Even today the painful

a century later.

was beautiful

It

weather because there was intermittent sunshine behind high

clouds with a nice breeze. Also, there were lots of islands in view

once we approached the Bay of

New

As we

Zealand.

left

Islands.

It

was our

the bay and headed into a

New

coasted along the northeastern shore of

Auckland Harbor. There were many

contact with

first

new channel, we

Zealand,

all

the way to

islands strung out along our path,

mostly rugged and rocky. At noontime today, we assembled

Notre their

Dame alumni

happy years

hopes for the I

at

for a cocktail party.

They

Notre Dame, and Ned and

The Closing of

the

American Mind.

that the million-odd people

must

1

say,

who bought

is

somewhat overdone

find a great deal of resonance I

am

familiar with

at state universities.

it

I

them

in

on our

I

is

copy of Bloom's it

hard to believe

book

As

I

really read

mentioned

university today,

think, exaggerated. life,

its

is

205

I

couldn't

teaching and

Notre Dame. Perhaps

Bloom himself

it,

earlier,

at intellectual life in

on the

with university at

my

find

this

he looks

as

which

today. His third section,

was quite well done, although again,

values, as

reminisced about

filled

lunch with

after

especially the long central philosophical part.

America

the

fiiture.

was back on deck right

his analysis

all

I

all

it's

different

at the fine private University of

TRAVELS WITH TED Chicago. In any event, I'm glad

I

NED

&

read the book.

did raise

It

some

important questions.

We came

into

body was on deck

Auckland Harbor about

as

5 P.M. Just about every-

we made the long approach,

twisting

and turning

in the channel. Thousands of boats, large and small, had turned out

to

meet

the

us, plus airplanes

South

Island.

length.

exactly

helicopters. Obviously, the arrival of

Between them, the two

islands are over 1,000 miles in

They are located 1,400 miles southeast of Australia and midway between the equator and the South Pole. The Dutch-

man Tasman found New Captain James Cook

Zealand in 1642, but

in 1769.

find a continent in the

had

and

QE2 is considered quite an event in this part of the world. New Zealand is made up of two large islands, North Island and

it

was rediscovered by

This was part of Cook's commission to

South

was

Pacific. It

just

assumed that there

to be one, because the earth could not otherwise have stayed in

balance.

After

Cook had mapped New

Australia, specifically at

Botany Bay, which was the landing point of

subsequent convict ships.

than trip

Villiers's

he found

Zealand's outlines,

I

can't think of any story

account of Cook's two voyages, which

I

more exciting read

on my

first

out this way in 1969.

When

the settlers

first

came

they met the Polynesian

here,

who had been here since the middle of the fourteenth century. New Zealand became an independent dominion in 1907 and a member of the British Commonwealth in 1931. The population of New Zeala-^d is 3.3 million. Of that number, more than 800,000 live Maoris,

in

Auckland and about 342,000

the population

is

Most of

in Wellington, the capital.

European, although 8 percent are Maori, descen-

As

dants of the original inhabitants.

to religion,

29 percent are

Anglican, 18 percent Presbyterian, and 15 percent Catholic. There are

and

more sheep on these fruit

crops and catch

islands fish.

than people. They also grow grain

Big

game

fishing

Some

the 144 islands of the Bay of Islands.

is

very good

among

of the largest black marlin

in the world are caught here.

After dinner tonight, for several blocks. It

coats.

The QE2

Ned and

I

took a walk along the dockside

was quite warm, and we both had to shed our

looks even bigger than

it

harbor silhouetted against the city skyline.

206

is

when you

see

it

in the

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

Auckland has grown tremendously since my last visit here 1969. There are new buildings everywhere one looks, and derricks

in

to

mark the locations of yet others under construction. The city is often to Corinth, because it is built on an isthmus between the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean. This port is so large that it could compared

easily

accommodate

We I

in early.

whole

flotilla

of the world's navies

returned to the ship around 10 P.M.

caught up on

sail

a

Ned went

all at

once.

to the movies.

worked on tomorrow's homily, and turned Tomorrow several hundred Australians will come aboard to this diary,

on the QE2 back

to

Sydney

as part of the Bicentennial celebration

of Australia.

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY New

Auckland,

JL his was a day to remember.

we had arranged Jack Sloane. in

common,

He

I

Zealand

was up

turned out to be a Marist Father.

are Catholic, but that

we went

A.M. on the nose because

in philosophy at

many

of

them

Notre 1

had something

Dame

after the war.

I

5 percent of New Zealanders

live in

Auckland.

were off the ship around ten and met Meredith, our driver, provided by Coca-Cola. to the

museum.

It

Then began

a very busy day. First,

presents everything from the history of the

Maoris to both world wars to English furniture that,

We

since his former Superior General, Father Joe Buckley,

learned from Father Jack that only about

We

at 8

a breakfast with the Catholic port chaplain. Father

had obtained a Ph.D.

who was

10

—you name

it.

After

to Mount Eden, where one can see the whole city Then we went to the aquarium to see a wide range especially a lot of sharks and stingrays. Then it was back into

we went up

in all directions.

of

fish,

the city for lunch at the top of one of the tallest buildings. There

were great views in

all

directions.

After lunch, we bought some jade stones, looked at a pair of kiwis in the zoo, toured the university, and prayed at the Catholic cathedral.

We

then visited Mount Victoria, from which one gets

another whole perspective of the bays, the harbor, and buildings in Auckland. After crossing the bridge,

new housing

section to the north of Auckland,

207

all

of the

which opened up a we went to another

TRAVELS WITH TED mountain spot where again we had

NED

&

a wonderful vista of the

whole

city, the bay, and the harbor. About this time, it occurred to us that we had twenty minutes to get back to the ship if we were going to sail on her. There were a few tense moments getting back across the bridge, but we finally made it with about four minutes tospare. It

was

my turn to preach tonight

on the obtuse

A

spirit.

lot

and, believe

it

or not,

I

preached

of the people aboard, given their age, are

worried about death and dying, retirement and inactivity, loss of

power, etc.

It is

of the obtuse I

brought

ship

the

but

left

my

it

to categorize under the concept

best shot.

no one

least,

I

have no idea whether

fell asleep.

began to sway from

we encountered the

and the ship

Pacific swell

side to side. This will probably go

arrive at the entrance to

on

As we rounded

to sea like a pack of sheep dogs.

of the bay,

windiest place

much

too

gave

Auckland Harbor, hundreds of boats surrounded the

and ran her out

comer

all

I

At

off or not.

it

As we

probably

spirit,

on

until

we

Wellington Harbor tomorrow, arguably the

earth. Also,

we have

a 20-knot following sea

from

the northeast, which creates a low swell and gives the ship a constant

rocking motion, but thankfriUy a

mild one.

fairly

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY En

I

Route

WeUington

spent two and one-half hours on deck today reading Ministry, a

new book by

Father Dick McBrien, then chairman of Notre Dame's

theology department.

I

found

it

very balanced and quite helpful. Like

everything else that Dick writes,

When all

to

11

it is

one considers the history of ministry

of the permutations in

to live in

its

in the early

conduct over the centuries,

an age when the Church

is

and

wonderfrilly clear

beginning to see

service to the

Kingdom and the people

Church. We're

all

part of the people of

of

God

God who

orderly.

Church and

it's

wonderful

its

mission as

constitute the

—the people

in the pews,

the ordained ministers and bishops, even the Pope. Lest

I

forget to

mention

it,

Ned

has been doing

yeoman

service

in keeping our bills straight, doing a great deal of telexing to spots

ahead where we hope to meet the alumni, and generally keeping our

208

THEODORE affairs in order.

CPA

and

I

much

He's

better at this than

we came

this afternoon,

Cook

Wellington Harbor,

greet us, including three

am. But then, he

is

a

and sprayed water

Midwest and, believe

in the

ocean and was not known it

boats

fire It

it

or not, as

was nice to get

came out

was a very

for dinner.

in the

It's

it

e were

up reasonably early

to

become

an eating it

this

a very popular fish

here.

It lives

deep

fish until fairly recently.

right here

New

into the harbor

festive occasion.

comes from

FRIDAY, FEBRUARY Wellington,

came out

one from Spain, one from Poland,

in all directions.

had orange roughy

very good and

into the narrow entrance to

Bay. Hundreds of small craft

tall ships,

and one from Ecuador. Also, two

It's

I

don't even count well.

About 4:30

We

HESBURGH

M.

where

it is

caught.

12

Zealand

morning, again to a bright, sunny

Once

we were taken in tow by a representative from the Coca-Cola organization. First we went west out of Wellington and then north along the west coast. About twenty-five to thirty miles out, we climbed a mountain above a town called Paekakiriki. From there, we could see south across the strait to day as well as a hot and humid one.

South Island about twenty or

way tomorrow on our way Milford Sound.

We

saw a

again

thirty miles away. We'll be passing this

to the west coast of

South Island and

rough country populated mainly by

lot of

sheep, goats, and horses, plus large areas that had been reforested.

Coming back Victoria Hill,

could see the

we went through the town and up to the best view of the city. From there we

into Wellington,

which

QE2

offers

swinging at

its

moorings, plus the magnificent bay

which we entered yesterday afternoon.

much

We couldn't help noticing how

the scene resembled San Francisco, with bright white houses

climbing up the green-clad

hills

and many smaller bays going inland

from the main harbor. The only element missing was the Golden

Gate Bridge. Shortly after noon, our driver dropped us off at the residence of

Cardinal William, sive.

We

whom we

found to be young, bright, and progres-

enjoyed a traditional lamb dinner, followed by a three-hour

conversation

on

things both ecclesiastical and secular. This

209

is

really a

TRAVELS WITH TED remote part of the world, about

and

as far

NED

&

away from

Rome

from many other centers of action. The New Zealand government prohibits U.S.

one can get

as

far

warships from

entering the harbor because of the nuclear weapons they carry. Yet

during our short stay here

we discovered

ANZUS,

the Australian,

New

that

New

don't agree with the ban, nor with

many New

Zealanders

Zealand's dropping out of

Zealand, U.S. mutual defense group.

Most were aware that the United States saved New Zealand during

World War

II

—and would probably have

New

necessary.

to save

it

again

if it

became

Zealand's military consists of a navy with thirty

smallish ships, an army of a few thousand, and an air force of ten

outdated airplanes. In any event, this visited.

It's

when you

really

is

one of the most

amazing

friendly places

how good-natured New

we have

Zealanders are

consider that they have to pay $130,000 for a modest house,

24 percent interest on mortgages, and impossible

taxes,

such as the

50 percent tax on American automobiles.

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

We e

awoke

to

13

Milford Sound

to another slightly overcast day, about 75 to

80 degrees

on deck, but getting warmer. The sea is calm. There is only a slight 5 -knot wind coming in from the east. We are cruising down the west coast of South Island, having come almost 500 miles since leaving Wellington

last night.

We're moving along at 28.5 knots.

This morning we passed Mount Cook. At about 12,000 the highest point in

New

Zealand.

feet,

it is

As we made our way down

the

coast toward Milford Sound, the coastline was about twenty miles off

our port side, very mountainous, like the coast of Chile, with some

snowcapped peaks

as well.

Rudyard Kipling called Milford Sound the eighth wonder of the world.

It

was formed many millions of years ago when the sea flooded

a giant glacial valley.

It's

really a fjord that

peak over a mile high. Pembroke Peak

is

is

even a

dominated by a miter bit higher.

From

these

two peaks, precipitous rock walls plunge deeply into the water. The

210

THEODORE water

deep

180 feet deep

is

at

HESBURGH

M.

at the entrance to the

sound and 1,680

feet

head.

its

Fog descended down off the peaks, along with

rain,

as

we

approached the head of the sound. Nevertheless, we were able to make out the Milford Sound Hotel and most of the outstanding sights along the way.

Norwegian

The

scenery was quite spectacular,

When we

fjords.

much

reached the middle of the

like

the

fjord,

we

turned around and retraced our route. At 45 degrees south, Milford

Sound

the farthest south

is

world, although we'll

come

we

will sail

on our journey

close to this latitude as

across the

we round the

bottom of Australia near Melbourne.

Two pastoral consultations took about an hour and a half today. With this many people and particularly the age group, which seems to average

lems

—

around

one encounters

sixty-five,

but opportunities too.

Ned and

a wide variety of prob-

about, even

if

they have no need for our services. Cardinal Suahard of

Paris expressed

it

very well,

can have merely by being presence." say, "Just

on our know what we're

generally wear a cross

I

coat collars, as military chaplains do, so people will

Or

as

my

1

think,

He

visible.

when he spoke called

it

of the effect one

"the apostolate of one's

old Holy Cross friend Charley Sheedy used to

being there helps."

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

to

14

Sydney

JLhere was a considerable weather disturbance about 300 miles south of us and, as a

result,

we picked up some heavy

the night. Even in moderately heavy evenly, although

when being

We

hit

it

at

The Sunday Gospel

side, as

happened today.

both the morning and afternoon tells

of Christ curing the leper, so

decided to preach on the Sacrament of Reconciliation to say, Confession.

swells during

this ship rides pretty

has a tendency to sway a bit from side to side

by waves on starboard or port

had good attendance

Masses today.

swells,

We

collected about

and two Sunday Masses, which

is

not bad.

$350 It all

at

or, as

our Saturday night

goes to the Apostolate

of the Sea, an international organization that has houses for

211

I

we used

seamen

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

and helps them when they're

in almost every major port

in trouble,

besides providing spiritual care.

MONDAY, FEBRUARY

15

Sydney, Australia

A.

.t

about 6:30

morning, we were already heading through the

this

massive rocks that mark the kilometer-and-a-half entrance into Syd-

ney Harbor. This has to be one of the greatest harbors in the world.

There great

are twenty-one square miles of enclosed anchorage, including a

number of small bays This

is

full

of private sailing yachts.

the most cosmopolitan of

larger population,

3.4 million, than

Australian

all all

of

New

cities.

It

has a

Zealand, yet the

people enjoy a whole range of outdoor activities not normally associated with large

cities.

There

are, for

example,

fifty-four

beaches along

the various shores of the harbor bays.

We

had lunch

above the

which lunch,

which

We

city.

at the top of the Needle,

settled

soars 1,000 feet

on lamb and the local red wine, both of and we weren't disappointed. After

are highly regarded here,

we is

as beautiful as

We made

a large English

visited the cathedral,

great English

any cathedral on earth.

Gothic cathedrals

I've seen,

and

Gothic building,

It

certainly equals the

I've

seen a lot of them.

a brief stop at the botanical garden, then walked around the

campus of the University of Sydney, the here in town.

one

which

sees at

Its

central building

is

best of the three universities

very reminiscent of the buildings

Oxford and Cambridge.

Ned had caught

two before we arrived here and

a cold a day or

wasn't feeling well, so our driver dropped

him back

at the ship.

I

continued on to Bondi Beach, which has the best combers in the world for surfing. the

name

1

had our

driver,

of the place where the

ooloo," which

I

Sam, stop

Navy

is

at a sign that displayed

quartered.

took to be an Aboriginal word.

famous Sydney Clamshell Opera House, which yards from where

we

are docked.

is

It

said

We

"Woolloom-

also visited the

only a few hundred

Besides the Taj Mahal,

it

will

probably turn out to be one of the most photographed buildings in the world.

It

was designed by a Danish architect who estimated that

212

THEODORE it

HESBURGH

M.

would cost about $15 million

to build.

ended up costing $112

It

million.

There was an enormous party

Mass tonight

after

Among

Australian Bicentennial celebration.

as part of the

the several hundred

important people on hand was a large complement of government and the U.S. ambassador to Australia. Needless to say, the

officials

cocktails were flowing ship's

and there were

special banquets in

each of the

dining rooms, followed by entertainment and a dance,

all

very

formal.

TUESDAY, FEBRUARY

16

Sydney, Australia

up

e were

were

still

It's

5:30 this morning, even though at midnight we

watching the Bicentennial fireworks

By

fantastic.

at

7

A.M. we were off to Canberra, by

only a thirty-minute

Australian capital.

flight

is

a pretty

good

Aboriginal

title for

about halfway between Sydney and Melbourne.

on the inland is

from Sydney to Canberra, the

The name Canberra comes from an

word meaning "the meeting place," Canberra

which was

display,

air this time.

a capital.

It's

located

Mountains, the coastal range here, and

side of the Blue

the largest inland city in Australia.

On

we passed the Royal based on the West Point

the way into town from the airport,

Military College, which, interestingly,

model rather than Sandhurst

and one would expect Sandhurst asked General Kitchener to

recommended West Point

is

in England. Everything here

a planning report

as the best

model. Besides

English

However, they

to be the model.

make

is

on

this,

it

and he

one has the

impression that Australians favor Americans over the British because

we came

to their defense during

World War

II.

Australia was not federalized until 1901. Until then, each of the states

was a separate colony of England.

worldwide competition to

lay

1957,

when

1912,

there was a

out a federal capital for the country.

The winner was an American, Walter architect from Chicago.

In

Nothing

really

Burley Griffin, a landscape

happened

after that until

a commission was finally appointed to proceed with the

construction.

What we

saw today was what was done since then.

213

TRAVELS WITH TED Ironically,

though

NED

&

was followed, none of

Griffin's overall layout

One of the biggest things dammed up to create some

the buildings he designed was ever built. that Griffin did was to get the rivers artificial

lakes around the capital.

of which are already built and the fourth

satellite cities, three

abuilding.

The

Also, his plan called for four

now

only private dwelling in the federal district proper

is

the house of the Anglican archbishop.

After a quick trip around the

where they Spain.

city,

raise the best of all sheep, the

we went

to Tralee Station,

merino, which comes from

Bernard Morrison, the manager, showed us

how

to

throw

boomerangs and how to guide sheep dogs that control the sheep. The dogs are very important because there are 160 million sheep here in Australia. Believe

or not, a single dog can control 1,000 sheep!

it

Before leaving the ranch

we had

a marvelous barbecued steak. After

only a continental breakfast, followed by several hours of touring,

it

really hit the spot.

Our next stop was the new Parliament dedicated by Queen Elizabeth on May 7 of seven and one-half years to build it. Once competition.

A

New

The

building

describe, so a tidy

sum

I

won't

for a

said the

is

truly spectacular.

It

will

be

took them

again, there was a big

try,

except to say that

New

York firm deserved to

But

it

it

is

also difficult to

cost over a billion dollars,

country of 16 million people.

Another impressive all

this year.

which

York firm submitted the winning design, and

most of the people we talked to win.

building,

the Australians

who

sight

was the War Memorial, which honors

fought in wars going back to World

War

I.

Australia suffered almost a quarter of a million casualties in these wars, a terrible price for any country

and

all

the more so for a small

one.

At the end of this busy

day,

we rushed

to the airport, caught the

plane back to Sydney, and reboarded the ship bite to eat before the

right time, given the wonderful choice of food I

trust

it

will help to

just in

Mardi Gras celebration. Lent

keep us in fighting trim.

214

is

time to grab a

coming

and drink on

at the

this ship.

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

ASH WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

to

JL oday was uneventful compared with yesterday. hours reading

Andy

17

Melbourne

I

spent about three

Greeley's Patience of a Saint.

about 500 miles from Sydney to Melbourne and another 500

It's

from Melbourne to Adelaide. That gives us the better part of twentyfour hours at sea on both this leg and the next one. I also did a lot of walking the deck and thinking about afternoon. Since this

penance.

And

I

is

also have to decide

Lent. You can't preach

Ned had about hundred

it if

a

what

am

1

Mass

this

Mass

for

talk about the

I'll

need

this

for

going to give up for

it.

morning and

had

I

close to a

Father D'Arcy also concelebrated with us

good number of the people who

the world cruise, as he

are repeaters

on

is.

was a nice day

It

my sermon

you don't practice

fifty at

this afternoon.

He knows

today.

Ash Wednesday,

for

walking the deck and reading outside

because the weather has been in the 60s, not too windy, and a very

moderate swell on the water.

who

are very irregular in their

ashes

on

blessed

their foreheads

on the

me how

has always amazed

It

people

church attendance never miss receiving

on Ash Wednesday

Feast of St. Blaise.

It

or getting their throats

really brings

everybody out of the

woodwork. 1

one good resolution

told the congregation that

be to come to Mass every day, since ship.

I

it is

for

Lent would

so convenient here

on the

submitted that they would find giving up food and drink

difficult,

given the

menu and nine

bishop came by to receive ashes on his

morning.

Then he took some

The Anglican forehead from Ned this

bars aboard this ship.

of our ashes for his service at 10:30

A.M., since he didn't have any. We're really ecumenical here.

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY

18

Melbourne, Australia

I

t

was another bright, sunny, and quite warm day

Melbourne. This

is

as

we

arrived in

the second- largest city in Australia, with a popu-

lation of almost 3 million.

It

has been described as stately, sedate.

215

TRAVELS WITH TED and snobbish. an

It is

also

an important financial and commercial center,

and

arbiter of artistic

of three universities.

If

Sydney

the

is

New

the city has begun to lose some of

its

its

York or London or Paris of Boston. At the same time,

stodginess.

glass-and-steel skyscrapers than there were

nineteen years ago,

Once

again,

we went

There are many more

when

as well as large influxes of

and other Ethnic groups, who have helped began our tour

and the home

cultural values for Australia,

Melbourne would have to be

Australia,

NED

&.

I

here

last visited

Greeks, Italians, Turks,

to liven things up.

Coca-Cola furnished us with a car and

driver.

We

War Memorial, which overlooks the city. Then Como, a house built by an Englishman who made

at the

to see

fortunes in wool both in England and in Australia. Next

came the

minimum of a million money here comes from either sheep or gold. At the conservatory we saw some wonderful multicolored begonias and had lunch at Fitzroy Gardens. As we were walking along a path on the way to the restaurant, we turned back to the car to pull our jackets out of a bag we were carrying. While we were putting them on, a giant limb came crashing down on the exact spot where we would have been walking had we not stopped. That stroke of good high-rent district of Tborak, where houses cost a apiece.

The

luck, or

old

God's mercy, was

under a branch

at Fitzroy

Cook's house here.

It

all

that prevented our trip from ending

Gardens in Melbourne.

was transported

all

We also saw Captain

the way from Yorkshire,

stone by stone, and reassembled in the park.

We

continued our tour with a

visit to

the University of Mel-

bourne. This university of 18,000 enrollment includes lege,

which used

to be for

to be for

men, and

St.

Newman

Col-

Mary's College, which used

women. Now both are coeducational, with about 250 no Catholic colleges per se in Australia.

students each. There are

Instead, they follow the English system of having Catholic houses at

the state universities.

We

learned from the rector of Newman College,

Father Bill Uren, a Jesuit, that there are also Catholic houses at the universities in Brisbane, Sydney, Adelaide,

are run

by the

Jesuits,

who keep

and

Perth.

Most of them

three or four priests there for tutoring

help and program direction. They also have chapels with daily Mass.

Today was the twentieth anniversary of my mother's death, so we offered

Mass

for her today, as well as for

eight years dead in ten days, and

my 216

my

sister

dad,

who

will

be twenty-

Mary and her husband, Al

THEODORE Lyons, both of

whom

HESBURGH

M.

—Mary

died at this time of year too

in January

twenty-nine years ago and Al in early February nine years ago.

FRIDAY, FEBRUARY En

e

woke up

this

Route

morning

to

19

Adelaide

to a quite

high sea with the wind coming

out of the southwest at about 25 knots an hour, hitting us on the port quarter as

we headed almost due

We've been riding about twelve

and intend

to fifteen miles off the coast

so

west.

we can touch the harbor of

to

come

Portland,

in closer at

which

is

putting

noontime

on

a big

They want us to at least make an appearance. The temperature is about 60 degrees because we are right on the edge of the Roaring 40s, our present position being celebration for the Australian Bicentennial.

about 39 degrees south. this

It

took some doing to walk the deck

really

morning with the starboard

side soaking

wet and the port side

wind that almost kept one from walking forward. One

sporting a

just

leaned into the wind and pumped.

We

new book

of their tugs and vessels,

came out to meet us tooting their horns as we help them celebrate their Bicentennial. I started

flags,

slowly cruised by to a

Many

passed Portland at noon.

decorated with

this afternoon,

Mikhail Gorbachev's

Perestroika.

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY

20

Adelaide, Australia

A,

.round 10 A.M., we

Kay Kelly Lindberg, and

a

left

Notre

the ship and met our guide for the day,

Dame

master of

arts in

a student at St. Mary's College before that.

brother are also Notre

Dame

grads. In town,

the class of 1964

Her father and her

we met her husband,

Janis, a Latvian.

The

first

Helen and

order of the day was to find opals for our secretaries,

Pat.

Both of us found exactly what we were looking

with no trouble. This of the world's opals

is

for

the opal capital of the world. Ninety percent

come from Coober

217

Pedy,

some 590 miles northwest

TRAVELS WITH TED of Adelaide.

and

this

think opals are one of the most beautiful stones around,

I

Lindbergs

own

and

We

fifth.

a couple of racehorses, so they took us out to

them

Victoria Park to watch third

NED

the place to buy them.

is

The

&

run. In the

had them

race, the horses

first

to win, so

came

we came up empty.

in

In the

second race, we picked a horse whose name described the weather we'd been blessed with most of the time so

We

time we got lucky. all

on the

of one dollar

effect

on our

We

bet

him

line in

to

far.

Sunny Welcome. This

win or place and he placed. With

each

race, neither

had any appreciable

financial status.

then drove up into the

We

behind Adelaide.

hills

had

a

wonderful meal at a place called Ducks Inn, where you can get everything but duck. to

my

surprise,

and

Ned

let

me

ordered an entree of kangaroo meat,

sample

it.

found

I

very tasty,

it

much

much better'

than steak or venison. Other orders around the table included rabbit, lamb, and beer-battered After lunch

fish.

we continued up

to the top of the

mountain, where

we toured the Cleoland Park and Zoo. Ned and I had our pictures taken with a koala bear hanging on to us for dear life. We also saw some dingo dogs, the ones that were tamed by Aborigines here to help them in hunting. They are a small dog, but very intelligent.

We

were back

for the day,

and run

other things,

I've

best exercise of

at the ship in

time to wash up, finish our prayers

six flights upstairs for

Mass

given up elevators for Lent. Climbing

be doing about

all. I'll

fifty flights

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY En

B>^y

the time

we woke

Australian Bight. This

west

—

in the theater.

that covers the

is

Route

up,

to

2

Among

stairs

is

the

a day.

1

Fremantle

the ship was well into the Great

— 600 miles from

an enormous bay

bottom of Australia where

it

bellies

east to

inward to

the north. There was a light southeasterly wind coming up behind us

and a very gentle

although the bight can be rough

swell,

Roaring 40s continue up

this

way with

a clear

sweep

all

when

the

the way from

the Antarctic to the southern shores of Australia.

Ned had almost

as

many people

218

at

Mass

this

morning

as

we had

THEODORE last

night.

I

believe that Lent

M.

is

HESBURGH

pushing up our attendance somewhat,

not only on Sundays but also during the week.

As we

cruise along the southern coast this quiet

Sunday

noon, I'm taking a break from reading Gorbachev's record a few unrelated facts about Australia. First of all, nation that occupies an entire continent.

and

smallest drier,

It is

Perestroika to

the only

it is

also the flattest

and

driest inhabited continent in the world. Antarctica

but uninhabited. Less than 10 percent of the land

But the country

Australia.

after-

Among

consumption.

is

is

is

arable in

certainly not dry in terms of alcohol

English-speaking nations, Australia holds the

record for consumption of beer and whiskey. Australia

Some

is

one of the oldest of the world's landmasses.

also

One

fragments of the earth's crust here are 4.3 billion years old.

hundred

sixty-five million years ago, Australia, together

with North

and South America, Africa, and most of Asia, was part of a landmass called

Gondwana. Then

Australia and the current continents began

and Antarctica separated and

to drift away.

Eventually, Australia

drifted farther

from the center of what

why

is

now

India.

This explains

the flora and fauna of Australia, having developed separately over

millions of years, are unique in

all

of the world. Even the

human

remains here go back ^0,000 years, considerably older than any yet discovered in the Australia

one of the

is

least

New

World.

about the

size

of the continental United States.

people per square mile. There are ten times as people. This

is

It is

populated countries in the world, averaging only

why

many sheep

five

here as

they produce 30 percent of the world's wool and

export the second-largest amount of mutton, almost 300,000 tons a year. Australia appears to be very healthy economically. Its per capita

income of $11,200 of Australians

own

vacation annually.

is

one of the highest in the world and 70 percent

their

homes. Workers have from four to

On the downside,

the Australian dollar has lost 50

percent against the Japanese yen in the there

is

six weeks'

last

three years.

heavy Japanese investment here, just as there

is,

As

a result,

for the

same

reason, in the United States.

Since 1950, the number of college students in Australia has

grown from 30,000 ties,

to 180,000.

but higher education

a current

move toward

is

There are now a few private

mostly public and

free,

universi-

although there

privatization of higher education. But all

219

is

is

not

TRAVELS WITH TED

Only 40 percent of the seventeen-year-olds

perfect.

compared with 92 percent is

NED

&

United

in the

States.

One

are in school,

of five teenagers

unemployed. Australia was originally populated only by Aborigines, an esti-

mated 300,000 of them. But with the coming of the whites, most of the Aborigines were killed

About 30,000

live

on

Now

off.

We

the general population.

there are about 60,000

Another 30,000

reservations.

are

left.

mixed into

were told today that $2 billion has been

paid in welfare for Aborigines in recent years. It

wasn't until 1973 that Australia was open to immigrants

who

were not white. Seventy-five years before that, the all-white policy

governed Asian,

immigration. Today, one of every three immigrants

all

much

United

like the current pattern in the

States.

There

is

is

a

very strong Irish influence in Australia, especially in the Catholic

Church.

Of the 162,000

45,000 were

Irish,

convicts

who were

plus Australians, 2.5 million are Irish. is

a very unusual country,

Tonight

I

transplanted to Australia,

mostly political prisoners. Today, of the 16 million-

read the

little

last

Enough

for statistics, but this

understood by most of the world.

two of eight

tracts that Karl

Rahner, the

famous Catholic theologian, wrote on the Sacraments and the Vows.

Good

So came the end of Sunday

theological insights.

in the

Great

Australian Bight.

MONDAY, FEBRUARY En e're so far

birthday.

It's

away

been a

it's

fairly

and reading Gorbachev's

Route

hard to believe that

work aboard the

this

is

Washington's

quiet day with exercise, walking the decks,

At four

Perestroika.

meeting of the bishop, the rabbi, laincy

22

Fremantle

to

ship.

We

Ned, and laid a

generally agreed that things were going at the beginning.

220

this afternoon,

me

we had

a

regarding our chap-

few long-range plans and

much

better than they were

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

TUESDAY, FEBRUARY

23

Fremantle-Perth, Australia

Harbor right on the nose

e arrived in Fremantle

people,

if

they've heard of Fremantle at

where the America's Cup race was held

won

the United States

taken

in 1987.

in 1983.

It's

is

eleven miles up the

of Adelaide, nearly

people

who

1

that occasion,

who had

much

town

larger city of

Western Australia,

is

about the

million people. That's two- thirds of the

the state.

live in

On

A.M. Most

as the place

Swan River from Fremantle.

Perth, the capital of the state of size

it

a great little port

with a population of only 25,000 people. The Perth

at 8

remember

the cup back from the Australians,

away from us in Newport

it

all,

It's

a bright, fresh-looking city, expand-

ing faster than any other Australian city. But

it

terribly isolated,

is

being closer to Singapore than to Sydney. Even Adelaide, our port of call,

almost 2,000 miles from here. Perth

is

both banks of the Swan River. This

city has

great entrepreneurs in Australia. This state

Texas,

and

it

One

of

It

four times the size of

some of the

also has

them belongs

to

spread out along

spawned many of the

contains vast amounts of iron ore, coal,

and many other minerals. Australia.

is

is

last

oil, gold, silver,

best vineyards in

Denis and Tricia Morgan,

who

gave

us a tour of the area.

Denis and Tricia properties that Denis

first

drove us

all

over Fremantle showing us

had recently acquired with the thought of

building a Catholic university here. Also,

we took

a quick look at

Perth and the University of Western Australia, which tive. hill

We

then went to Denis and

overlooking the

Fremantle. There Denis's,

who

Swan

Tricia's house,

which

is

is

very attrac-

located

on

River, about halfway between Perth and

we were joined by

Peter Tannock, a classmate of

has his Ph.D. in education from Johns Hopkins and

director of Catholic education for this state.

on the Catholic

When we

a

is

He's working with Denis

university project.

had

finished our coffee,

and boarded Denis's helicopter

we went down

to the heliport

for a trip about 125 miles south along

the coast. There are miles and miles of clear sand beaches.

As we

rounded Cape Leeuwin, the most southwesterly point of the continent of Australia, we came along rocky beaches with enormous surf pound-

221

TRAVELS WITH TED ing in from the south

below

being thrown end over end 100 feet

surfers

us.

Our next wine

and

NED

&

district.

Estate,

There we

there,

is

the center of the

flew farther inland, landing at Denis's

which comprises about 2,000

met lunch

which

stop was the Margaret River,

acres.

We

Leeuwin

had a splendid gour-

accompanied by three or four excellent

local wines.

Denis owns 200 acres of grapes and produces about 25,000 cases of

wine a

Though

year.

new

relatively

in the business,

wines were beginning to win some awards.

he told us

The winery was

his

originally

Mondavi of California.

a joint venture with

down and all the way back and while there, our nonstop conversation went on concerning the feasibility of building a Catholic university in Western Australia. I think we came to the All the way

cautious conclusion that

it

was a good thing to do.

they give the university a Catholic ably Catholic

and

totally

eventually decided to

dean, David Link, as that

it

its

it

would be unmistak-

name

its first

it

Notre

Dame

Australia, with our law

two-year vice chancellor. )

Rim

university

I

also suggested

which would take a

students from Western Australia, another third from the

rest of Australia,

That would

so that

committed to remaining Catholic. (They

be conceived as a Pacific

third of

name

suggested that

1

give

and a it

third

from the other

Pacific

Rim

thirds of the world's population currently lives in Pacific tries.

Most

countries.

plenty of potential students to draw from. Two-

authorities agree that

it

will

Rim coun-

be the great trade center of

the future.

We

returned to the Morgan

guests were the

of

God

home

Among

the other

Bill Foley,

the head of St. John

Columba Howard,

a very distinguished

Archbishop of Perth;

Hospital; and Sister

for dinner.

doctor here. Denis served some of his best wines, which went well

with the pink snapper.

When we

we discovered that fiiel handlers all over Australia had gone on strike. As a result, though we were scheduled to leave at 11 P.M., we couldn't. The worst part was being returned to the ship,

berthed next to a large Saudi Arabian ship. There were 100,000 sheep

on board and we were downwind

of them.

stockyards town, you can imagine what

222

it

If

was

you've ever lived in a

like.

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY

24

Fremantle, Austraiia

ilnstead of waking up a couple of hundred miles out to sea, as scheduled, we woke up again in Fremantle. The captain spent most of the morning negotiating with the strikers. Normally, the loss of a few hours on a cruise of this duration would not have been of great concern, but with the

QE2

in port,

The

was.

it

ship was paying a

docking fee of $10,000 per hour, so by the time the

and we got underway,

made

it

it

a very expensive twelve hours. But at last

many pleasant memories not among them. with

at the

was settled

we were on our way

3,600 miles away off the coast of Africa.

to Mauritius,

I

strike

had cost the Cunard Line $120,000. That

of Australia.

The

We were

leaving

sheep, however, were

read more Gorbachev this morning and continue to be surprised

openness of his language and the way he invokes a Christian

vocabulary with words like

"human

rights," "social justice," "the

man," "high character," "spiritual development," and They are words you don't expect to hear from a Communist.

dignity of forth.

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

A We up

to

so

25

Mauritius

beautiful day today with a small following

wind

in a

calm

sea.

have the engines cranked up to about 28 knots, so we're making for the time

on

in Mauritius rise to

we

lost in

time.

Fremantle.

The

The temperature

is

navigator says we'll arrive

about 67 degrees and will

the middle 70s during the day. We're just a few miles north of

a trench in the Indian

Ocean where

the depth

is

22,000

feet.

I'm getting in the habit of doing about one and a half miles

around the deck each morning

much

traffic

after breakfast

up there and before the day

gets too

does a couple of miles in the afternoon.

and they

tell

us that exercise

is

no good

It's if

when

there isn't too

warm. Ned generally

enough

to raise a sweat,

that doesn't happen.

The

heart has to do a bit of pumping.

We

heard a fine lecture by Waldemar Hansen, our on-board

cultural lecturer,

on the

history, geography, anthropology, politics,

223

—

)

TRAVELS WITH TED A

and culture of Africa. After lunch,

donned

opinion,

it

in

finish the

Gorbachev book, which

that the best parts of the

the message

is

who

should be required reading for anyone 1

did. In

1

has any

suspect that several people

writing, such as Georgi Arbatov, but

its

well.

it

and went up on the absolutely top deck

dealings with the Russians today.

hand

he compressed

large subject, but

shorts

some sunshine and

to get

my

I

NED

&

it's

fairly

had a

obvious

book come from Gorbachev himself because

the same one he's been espousing ever since he was

elected General Secretary almost three years ago.

have a hunch he

1

be deposed or change the face of Russia in our time

will either

perhaps both. (This was prophetic, because

it

happened.

I've

had the

opportunity to meet and converse with Gorbachev three times since reading Perestroika.

1

continue to admire him and his present program

of action.

After Gorbachev,

Throne by Hansen.

I

read a hundred pages or so of The Peacock

a great history of the

It's

Mogul Empire

just before and after the time that the Taj Mahal was built.

been trying to organize tours are sold out.

I

a trip to the Taj

in India

Ned

has

Mahal, because the regular

encouraged him to do

it

on

his

own by

plane and

then go to Dhaka to see our Holy Cross operation there.

had an

1

noon Mass.

interesting pastoral experience shortly after the after-

A gentleman in the sick bay had asked for a priest.

down, spent some time with him, and, confession.

When we

at his request,

were finished, he said

as

I

a Catholic, but you've just

had

all

to

1

answered, "You

your sins forgiven."

FRIDAY, FEBRUARY En Route

went

was going out the

door of his room, "By the way, I'm not a Catholic."

may not be

1

heard his

26

Mauritius

e did a bit of rolling during the night, but not too bad. All

have to do

is

think rock-a-bye-baby and go to sleep.

hazy with a sharp wind from the southwest that waters.

down. It

Between here and the Antarctic It's

really a vast

there's

you

The day dawned

is

kicking up the

nothing to slow them

and almost empty ocean.

was a quiet afternoon with another hundred pages or so of

winding

my way

through the Mogul Empire in India. The war of

224

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

succession there was really something, with three brothers battling

each other to the death

The whole dynasty who was a descendant

for the job of emperor.

there began in the fifteenth century with Babur,

Khan and Tamerlane. The story really begins with Shah Jahan (Khurram), who ruled from 1628 to 1658. He wanted his of Genghis

and

favorite

Data Shikoh, to take over from him, but the

eldest son,

three younger brothers, Shuja, Aurangzeb, and Murad, took a

view of

this.

Aurangzeb won out by either imprisoning or

the other brothers. battling going

more

full

on

He

ruled from 1658 to 1707. There was a lot of

Europe

in

of intrigue than

and Hindus added a

dim

killing off

at this time,

life

in the

but nothing more fierce or

Mogul

where the Muslims

court,

dimension to the squabbles. This

religious

own time with Pakistan and for the Hindus. The drama has

division continues to resonate into our

Bangladesh for the Muslims and India not yet totally unfolded.

Ned

administered Extreme Unction, or the Sacrament of the

Sick, to a Catholic ill.

She seemed

after the

woman whose

doctor has told her she

terminally

which we had

greatly consoled by the ceremony,

The new

evening Mass with her son also present.

much more meaningful and beautiful than many blessings of Vatican Council II.

is

right

ritual

is

the old one, another of the

This evening we had a cocktail party in the Yacht Club for the four Notre

Dame

couples aboard, the Bob Bauchmans, the Bordas,

the Dirksons, and Bart and Shirley Ramsour. It turned out that Bart and Bob Bauchman had been classmates and even played in the band together at Notre Dame. We also asked Ernie Secoy and Faye Beau-

champ

to join us,

neighbors. players

and

They daily

since they are from Indianapolis and are near

are

practically

alumnae now. Also good bridge

Mass attenders, although neither

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY En Route e covered about

to

is

Catholic.

27

Mauritius

650 miles yesterday and have now

traveled close

to 2,000 miles since leaving Perth. That's better than halfway to

Mauritius, where we'll arrive

on

time.

The

captain has been pushing

the ship along at about 29 knots an hour, which

225

is

about the limit of

r

it^

R A

V

\

I

w

s

H

r

I

T

f

n

ck

n

e

d

without usmc .uiothcr ^0 porceiit more tuel to get

s^xx\i

it

up to

}S or 34 knots.

Ned and

I

on

put

a

partv this

Cv.vkt;\il

noon

tor all ot

the

chaplains, the rabbi, the bishop. Father D'Arcv. the captain ot the ship,

a

and

chance

ofticer^.

all ot his

top

sratt

ro mingle treelv

It

wv»rked out

so that the relitiious personnel would have

and

talk a little policy

\\?rY well.

We

rrv to

with the other

staff

keep good relationships

with the caprain and his top people because they're our bosses and we

need to go through them whenewr we want to do an\thing bevond our usual duties.

SUNDAY. FEBRUARY En Route

a>

:S

Moxmous

on deck and walking the the Afternoon: Good \Kiys cfGroumg

A. his was a quiet and sunnv day oi reading

deck hx some miles,

OUer. bv Ed

I

Fischer.

read Ufe in

h:«m»

(xofesscx^

of journalism at Notre E>ame

and a cbssmate ol NedV Fischer retired from teaching about t\e YCHS ago at age sixty so that he could ^ute some bocJcs. He's wntten at least six or seven since then, half of v^-hich r\^ read, and with great ei^oiyinent, I mi^t aid. He starred wnting this one afto^ his sev^nrvfint bkllMlay . k ofieis a kx of sound advice on hcmr to grow dder I abo lead about half of Genesis in French today. It s the only Old 'fetamcnt vosion I have. I am preaching on Abraham tnnighr and his meal idkanne of the will of God and what that meant fer

hiaaandattafus^idioarehisdescendanis

m

—that

is,

those who betie^

Cbiisdans* and ModiuB. Given die 9t|nafafales we've

one God: Jews. had through die centunes, it's often diftniit to believe that we share soch an iM|iuiLaut cammaa heritaee. I abo began readme Janes hbookofhBdiatrvctack&ed. Fmnot CfaneffsWfe^^^^

IHini^ >fedtar-

~

-s aiore than i

^a

226

1300 pages long.

while after diat. He"s genir^

:

THEODORE

HE5BURGH

\{

MONDAY. FEBRUARY EnBoute

to

Sixicnaus

I looked out the pofthok at about 7 a.m. with

peaks soanng u|maid.

its tall

miles at sea. Mauritius

is

29

It

and there was Mankigs

was a welcome sight

after 3.600 the main island oi the Mascaiene archipel-

ago, 3,650 miles west ot I^rth. 1,120 miles soudieast of Moiiib»a,

and 500 miles due

east of

Mvia^ecar. the

coast oi Aiiica. MamririiK

is

large island off die east

hooie to Indians, Creoles. MysfaBS,

—about

1. 100.000 ot them m all. vas prarrirany unknown b^ore the late six:re-" ceitury. except to some Arab sailors and Poctognese ezpkxers. The

Chinese, and Eurapeans

Man

it ills

Dutch were the

iiist settlers

h^e

(

1598-1710). They

let it

go to the

Company cook over and c ; t Great Booia ^s^rrfA He de Ranee bv -^ r^

ptiate& Lassr die French East liidia lie

de Ranee. In IS 10.

inbo the hadbor with two 5ntish

c».siii|H>

tffing die

Fr^ich tfag ^Tien.

diey got broadside oi the two Fr^ich warships in the harbor, thev

qpened up tfaeargOQ ports. Then diev ran up die British £2: dcMm llie lireiicii. k was ti^ iSid of the Fr«^ 00 ^iauaciu.r. dvir fai«oaee and cukae stiD iIimiumi ^*«^**»** I

:

-

Fkdiy, in 1968. N

mdependenc

was heie once beiore afcoot ten feac ago.

twehe dii&cakdBfs in Sooth Afinca with an toltfraridns to dktace

die

ir

Hf icport.

beadL I4f seaecaiy,, Hden, ciaBscnliedL bcciisp,

I

had

just

A maium eJaLauunai i

and did most of it onda^ a

said

ct

was the best

mnodced bv me.

spent

vitfTafinn

the bnds

tree

on

she hod

woe ciacpiiig

die seieni haoES of .jartannn. Fat this and

any odier

it's Kdly a beaMiM b^kL Ned took die idl toot. I decided just to mosey anndlbrtLaaB* die *-tfriT< Oki the trip in od dioce on the rmffcT I nn iaao Father

DTAicir. ^fe

dbL

wlieic

haded a cab and went inio

we Yisiced

with Archi»liop Jean Mi^geac I had m

mdkkmhu^ dsing mv earlier rt

onm BngffhfT id ike

trip.

He

is

the iist ootne

ict Liaiglli li bv die irid tisn by tie Holy Spnt Fadeis ^cm 1916 OB. Ike A^d^bi^?^ ' in the

bit eerie hearing the brash ice crashing along

both

sides

of the ship and the creaking and groaning of our hull, which has been

strengthened to handle

Actually,

ice.

we had

to cut our

some

We

thick.

sliced

through

but then there was this constant

all right,

cutting noise of the ice against the outer hull.

Anyway, they made

Titanic.

twenty years ago.

built

It

began to think of the even though

it

was

was originally o\\'ned by Linblad and All along the way, there were

ice.

Weddell, crabeater, and leopard

them would scoot

1

this ship very strong,

designated for working in the

of

way through

floes that were fifteen or twenty feet across and three to four feet

seals

off the floe as

on the

we approached on the

Occasionally, there were also penguins

Most

floating ice floes.

or began to tip

floes

it.

and thev simply

slipped into the water. It

was a wonderful day, such

lifetime-

Ned thought

travels to the

Of

Machu

this

in

morning. They

o'clock at night.

I

south at McMurdo,

last

all

it

recall that it

oi our

he would put

it

at

is

partial to ice

Some

of our friends

South Carolina.

night and others were out

said

all

in a

Picchu. That's really saying

are practically running out of night here.

were up past midnight

and given

in the past year,

must understand that Ned

course, you

and snow, having grown up

We

one can only have once

that, all things considered

wonders of the world

the head oi the line, even before

something.

as

was

as bright as

when we were

never got dark at

all.

it is

on deck

right

now

at three at

seven

10 or 11 degrees farther

AnN-way, today ever>'thing

conspired for success, fabulous scener>\ pleasant temperature, bright sunshine, blue skies, and a good skipper. I

forgot to

mention that

we have been Today, most of them were minke

for the last several days

seeing whales almost every day.

286

THEODORE We

whales.

HESBURGH

M.

named Minke was

learned today that a sailor

a spotter

aboard one of the old whalers. In other words, he was the fellow up in the crow's nest at the top of the

mast looking

for

whales that might

be chased and harpooned. Minke apparently didn't have

all

that great

discernment about different whales, because he would get them chasing a small whale that was very

blubber on

it.

When

fast

and did not have very much

they finally caught up with the whale, one of

the seamen or the harpooner would say in disgust, "That's one of

Minke's whales." As a

result,

the small whale today

is

called a

minke

whale. That's one way to become immortal.

Right now, we are approaching the farthest progress south of the

On

Society expedition voyages this year. degrees,

the

11 minutes, 9 seconds south. Since

they got 65

last trip,

we

are already at 65

degrees, 10 minutes, 7 seconds south, the odds are that

the record of the

which continues all

last trip, since

we're

still

we

will beat

plowing through the

to scrape loudly along our sides.

At

ice,

least we'll lose

our barnacles.

At 6:30 tonight, we passed the expeditions.

We

ice to establish

my

guess It

is

our

that

farthest point south in past

now going a few miles farther through new record. I'll probably know later what

are

it's

a few miles farther than

the pack it is,

and

where we are now.

was a few miles and no more. The new record

south was 65 degrees, 12 minutes, 7 seconds.

for farthest

A few went in to shore

through the pack ice on the zodiacs and one zodiac got stuck in the ice.

However,

it

was disengaged

after a half

movie on board, Good Morning, Vietnam.

hour or

so.

1

saw

my

first

A waste of time.

WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER

21

Antarctic Peninsula

-fVeveille was

at 6:30 this

morning. As we raised the porthole cover,

once again we were greeted by a beautiful blue

sky, sunshine every-

where, and in every direction one looked, water, snow, and

know how we can be so lucky. The first trip ashore was at eight and

ice.

1

don't

First,

or

a doubleheader at that.

there was a landing at Gonzalez Videla, the site of an

abandoned Chilean

station.

It

is

287

also a

unmanned

gentoo penguin rookery

TRAVELS WITH TED

with plenty of penguins and tons of guano. Again,

The

the way these rookeries stink.

NED

& it's

hard to describe

chicks have not hatched out here,

although there were plenty of birds on the nests warming the eggs.

Some

birds were just

and,

assume, a breakfast of

I

The second

coming out of the water

door was a small chinstrap penguin

sight next

rookery perched on high rocks and slippery too.

on rock outcroppings

rookeries are always free of

snow

time of year, whereas

at this

several feet deep.

still

The

morning dip

after their

krill.

is

The

reason that these

that they are sure to be

around them the snow

all

rocks are blackish,

and that

is

attracts the

emerge in the spring

as

zodiac was back to the ship at 9:45 A.M., and then

we

heat of the sun, so they are the

first

to

relatively dry places.

The

last

were off to what

They have

Paradise Bay.

one

is

billed as

one of the

custom of serving hot consomme

a nice

of these trips ashore,

loveliest spots in the Antarctic,

since the temperature hovers at 32 degrees Fahrenheit.

sunshine makes

after

although ours have not been too rugged

Of course,

the

the difference in the world compared with a damp,

all

overcast day.

While ashore on the

trip this

first

morning, we were able to nose

around the Chilean buildings. There were closet,

a puny Christmas

we even found penguins

last 1

still

some

groceries in the

(no trees on this whole continent), and

a January 1988

that the Chileans

with them.

tree

New

Yorker,

from which we deduced

had been down here doing some research on the

year at this time and that an

would guess that

this station

American

scientist

was

could accommodate a dozen

or so people, possibly even a few more.

It

would not be much fun

living here very long with that constant smell of guano, but

I

you want to study penguins, you've got to be where they

although

I

would have pitched

my

Incidentally, the farthest south yesterday put us 2

this

is

morning, we

and a hill

we were supposed

half. It

set off to see

slide

down on

minutes above

another supposedly

called Almirante Brown. After

to tour the bay in the zodiacs for

had another attraction

behind the research

1

66 degrees, 33 minutes.

abandoned Argentine research station visiting,

if

hut some distance upwind.

the Antarctic Circle, which

At 10:30

are,

guess

in that there

station, so people

their backsides.

Great fun.

288

an hour

was a large snowy

would climb

to the top

and

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

However, when we arrived there, tinians

the

last

had been dropped

turned out that seven Argen-

it

off to recondition the station. Apparently,

group that was staying here had a crazy

man who

decided the

way to get home was to bum the place down. Fortunately, they had a few other huts around that they could stay in, but he burned best

down

the main installation. Nothing

fellows are supposed to clean

can reactivate the

One

station.

he had spent fourteen years south as 80-plus degrees.

in

of

but girders. These seven

left

up and

it

start rebuilding so that

them was

Argentinian stations down here as

to the ship by myself it is

if I

and picked up the Mass

easily carried

we cleaned up one

asked them delighted, so

1

They were

they would like to have Mass for Christmas.

in a knapsack, so

far

recall that one, Belgrano.

I

After meeting the captain and the other men,

went back

they

a real Antarctican, since

kit,

which

is

up and down the gangplank. Back

on the

table,

and proceeded with the Mass. Since our boats were leaving

fairly

on

shore,

soon, there was

no time

of the huts, set up an altar

for Confessions.

of Contrition in Spanish and gave

them they could

Communion

them

I

took them through the Act

all

general absolution, telling

confess later on, but this way they could receive Holy

We

for Christmas.

actually offered the Christmas

by anticipation, and they were very pious

and they

table blessing themselves

all

Mass

around the

as they stood

received a Christmas Holy

Communion.

One

other bit of serendipity. Just as

Corby Hall

at

Notre Dame,

the Mass kit just in case.

1

came

It

the Mass in Spanish, which

Mass,

and

1

all

repacked the Mass

kit

it

more meaningful

so

and was not stranded

at

It

on

like

in in

I

down

did get

my

for

them. After

the bay was a boat

ride

back to the ship

the nonabandoned base called

an early Christmas

for

me

too.

bit

confused, but at the same time fairly well

this ship.

Since we have seven zodiacs operating at once,

Things are a organized

seemed

it

again. All the boats

and got suited up

last,

Almirante Brown.

my room

handy today since we could have

of the people had gone. However,

after all

\

in

made

that was leaving this stop for

was leaving

1

spotted a Spanish missal and threw

everyone has a yellow tag at the debarkation door that he turns to red (the other side) still

when he

some unturned

cards,

we know

289

When we

if

there are

we're in trouble or else

someone

leaves ship.

get back,

TRAVELS WITH TED has a bad

memory

for detail

NED

&

and has not turned over

his tag

on the

hook.

Ned was up

at the top of the

mountain while

happening. Besides, he has the Mass for the regulars so

it's

of this was

this afternoon,

a break having two of us here at once. Everybody returned from

Paradise Bay just like

somewhat

late, so

we had

—

an Argentinian asado

a barbecue for a change.

It

quiet afternoon, but always a lot

with.

Then

one of

time on penguins. Everybody mopey

his superb lectures,

at supper tonight because

has been a long day and we always have a session to recap the day

Island,

more

we go

to

111,

rookeries,

where we began our

King George Island (named

a

arrival

after

King

the English king at the time of the American Revolution),

where there tinians,

just

Tomorrow we have

we're going north.

on Nelson

George

make

now

here. Later

session

down

Now

it

we're out in the Gerlache Channel retracing our

although

trip south,

A

of odds and ends to catch up

Peter Harrison gave another

before supper.

was

pork, beef, chicken, sausages, etc.

fairly

this

all

are research stations of the Russians, Brazilians,

and Poles

with American

assistance. Every nation

sure that the claims they have

made

is

Argen-

trying to

in the Antarctic hold

up

by virtue of their presence here. In any event, we're hoping to give

them Christmas services if they want them, but only tomorrow will tell what the situation is. My guess is that there will be a Polish Christmas Mass. I'm not sure of the Brazilians.

It

turned out to be

just

the opposite.

THURSDAY, DECEMBER At

22

Sea, Antarctica

when suddenly we came down the Gerlache

V V e were just about to turn in last night at 11:30

we must have

hit

an open spot of sea

Channel. The ship began to tible to seasickness

and

roll

We

as

side to side.

promptly started to get

that's the easiest solution.

sleep.

from

ill.

Most of us were

Somehow you

were able to sleep a bit

later this

Everybody suscep-

just let

it

in bed,

rock you to

morning, although

1

woke

up with a scratchy throat and then, having promptly taken two aspirins, immediately lost it. Let's hope it's gone for good. Just about everyone, including yours truly, has had intestinal disease the

290

last

few

i

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

Somewhere along the line we must have gotten some nice some not so nice. Relatively few people went in to Nelson Island, where we landed at our first stop on the Antarctic Peninsula on the way down. This time they are going to another landing to see more gentoo and chinstrap penguin rookeries. 1 hate to say that if days.

bacteria, or

you've seen one, you've seen

come

to at this point.

smelled

them

1

them

but that's about what we've

all,

could add that

if

you've smelled one, you've

A number of other birds also nest here,

all.

such

kelp

as

Antarctic terns, southern giant petrels (a very big bird),

gulls, skuas,

pintado petrels, and also Wilson's storm petrels. These petrels are the birds that

one mostly

Some

territory.

of

we go

sees circling the ship wherever

them

in this

are quite large, weighing fifteen to thirty

pounds and having a wingspread of are not as big as the albatross.

Of course,

six to seven feet.

They

they

recently measured an albatross

with a thirteen-foot wingspread.

The next

stop was King George Island farther north. This one

has a lot of research stations,

among which

are those belonging to the

Russians, the Brazilians, and the Poles, with scientists also work.

We're going to

visit

whom

a few

American

the Brazilian station

then go up the coast to the Polish station, where

first

we'll probably

and

have

a Christmas Mass.

We

arrived at the Brazilian station,

schedule.

I

Comandante

went with the advance party

the landing and see

if

everything was

Ferraz, right

in the scout boat to all

on

check

right for disembarking

passengers from our zodiacs.

me

This gave just

taken over

a chance to talk to the

this base,

Comandante

young commander who has Lisboa.

I

told

him

I

was a

priest and was prepared to offer a Christmas Mass for his people. The problem was that most of them were on station working. He said he

would send out the word so that those who could get

me

free

could join

for Mass. 1

set

up in the small

library,

where, fortunately, there was a

Portuguese Bible, so that we could have the Christmas readings in

About seven people showed up, including the comhad the commander and one of the doctors do the

their language.

mander, so

I

readings. Also, because of the limitations of time

them general absolution so that they could for Christmas. I told them they could confess

291

all

and language,

gave

Communion when they got

receive

their sins

1

TRAVELS WITH TED back home.

It

was

would

parts they

—

Mass

really a three -language

NED

&

easily recognize, English for the

in Spanish for the

Canon, and Portu-

guese for the Lessons.

This

is

probably the best

Antarctic Peninsula.

The

known

of the Brazilian bases in the

installation looks fairly new. Jacques

teau stopped here for a while and picked up

the beach and It's

so

I

Cous-

of the whale bones

all

on

a group of them together into a blue whale skeleton.

fit

about forty feet long.

I

took

my

picture standing inside the

mouth

least the whale's throat.

could be Jonah in the whale's belly, or at

Everybody got back on time, so that now we are on our way to the Polish base, Arctowski. Again,

Ned

things,

I

will offer the

doing a

least we're

little

if

we can

Christmas Mass aboard, and

missionary work

and arrange

get in early

down

At

ashore.

I

When Ned

here.

and

arrived at the anchorage for the Polish station of Arctowski, there

was, against the large rock formation, a shrine to crucifix.

We

were met by one of the four American

here on ornithology, mostly penguins.

We

Our Lady and scientists

walked down a

and took our boots

off so as

working

fairly

long

Once we were

path to the central headquarters of the Polish station. inside

a

not to dirty their carpets, we met

the commander of the station. I simply said that we were priests and we had everything necessary for Mass and we would be happy to offer Mass if that would be convenient to him and his group of twenty or thirty scientists. To our surprise, he told us that this was a Communist state station and that Mass would not be in order. He started to explain with some embarrassment, and 1 told him not to make a big deal out of

We

it; if it

was inconvenient, forget

it.

entered and had some coffee and cakes, and then he insisted

on taking

us personally

they have, where

good and,

The

I

we

all

ate

around the station, including a greenhouse

some of

their tomatoes,

which were very

might add, very unusual.

curious thing was that

when we went

room, we saw a large picture of Pope John Paul sure all of this was due to

what would happen

if

common am

into their 11

on the

wall.

some kind of misunderstanding or

the

commander was

reported back

1

a fear of

home

as

having allowed Mass at the state station, the state being Communist.

As he conducted

us around the base,

things were quite different in the Soviet

two months ago

I

had been asked to

I

Union

offer Mass,

292

explained to today.

I

him

that

said that only

and did so

in

Moscow,

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

with the vice chairman of the Academy of Sciences, the head of the Russian Space Research Program, and Andrei Sakharov in attendance, plus

many

other Russians. However, this

thousands of miles

is

away from headquarters, and one can understand the fears that exist in the political order. In any event, we passed the word around that nothing should be made of if it

was

feasible

this

and we were

utility

and no explanation was necessary

people to be used

if

they didn't want

to have us provide a spiritual service. I'm sure the majority did not

commander. Three weeks

agree with the

Polish foreign minister told

me

commander was much for glasnost.

that the

out of line in not permitting Mass. So

This

is

one of the few places

in the Antarctic

Adelie

come

gentoo

later.

the

The

where three of the

reason they are able to do

it

They

also feed at different levels of the It's

The Adelie population

has doubled

down

apparent reason for this

is

that

there was an extra supply of

the penguins

moved

Now

balance of nature

problem

is

for

the

krill,

three

all

here in the

last

ten to

tripled.

The

of the whales were killed

main food of the whales,

so

they may be putting too great a burden

and the next few years

krill

just a

in.

when most

and

same needs.

twenty years, and the chinstrap population has probably

on

that the

ocean to obtain

accommodation, and

a nice

get along well, despite the fact that they have the

off,

is

in early in the season, the chinstraps in the middle,

that sustains them.

krill

completely

and the chinstrap, breed

species of penguins, the Adelie, the gentoo,

together and in peace.

Moscow, the former

later in

be interesting to watch.

will

a marvelous reality.

humans, given our

The

Population numbers are not

total

dependence on limited

resources.

We

had

a group

from both the Polish station and the Brazilian

station join us for a Philippine buffet tonight. After the meal, the Filipinos sang

some of

their songs

and then we had a

young leader of the American group up on the

levels

here.

of the Foundation while a

for oil

is

I

was chairman of

being kept up, and they are even

long-range plans for research support here. is

this activity

of the National Science Board.

member

Apparently, the research support

everybody has

lecture by the

was interesting to catch

of research support from the National Science

Foundation, since from 1963 to 1966

making some

It

The

big fear

that there will be an influx of national groups looking

and possibly ruining

this area,

293

which

really

should be an

1

TRAVELS WITH TED international park.

threaten

Life

is

here and almost anything can

fragile

it.

As we were winding up is

NED

&

during the day. All that being true,

been an interesting day.

had Mass

we were

the discussion,

told that reveille

tomorrow morning and that we have two landings

at six o'clock

When we

I

think

it's

time to go to bed.

returned to the ship tonight,

in our cabin, attended by our

Notre

Dame alumni

It's

Ned

couple

and two other of our regular parishioners.

FRIDAY, DECEMBER

23

Antarctica

JL here was a wake-up

We

decided to ignore.

We

a result.

call at six this

heard that the landing party was

They

did see elephant seals.

about every type of seal thus

fairly small,

far,

so a few

We

finally got

as

just

more we don't need.

room

until

1

some laundry out and stopped by the doctor

get a couple of pills for

to

Montezuma's revenge. They seem to come up

with different medicines every time. This one was Doxycycline; believe

it's

a throw-off

I

but they

We've seen

are fairly enormous.

Instead of lunch, they had a brunch in the dining

A.M.

Ned and

morning, which

had the best sleep since leaving South Bend

from Terramycin. Anyway,

At 11:15 A.M., we have

a lecture

approaching Elephant Island, where he

it

on Shackleton, left

I

works.

some of

his

since we're

men

as

he

escaped from the ice after his ship was crushed, well south of here.

We're stopping

Half

at

Moon

Island at

one o'clock

for

another rookery

of penguins, blue-eyed cormorants, and Antarctic terns.

At four

this

afternoon, we're heading for Elephant Island and en route we'll have a lecture by Richard Rowlett. He'll talk

Antarctic Ocean. that

tomorrow

is

Much

discussion

on

on whale research

this subject. It's

in the

hard to believe

Christmas Eve.

Having been faked out by the RDlish commander, we had a better break today from the Argentinians. rough, so zodiacs.

we had

Some

The

sea has risen to be quite

quite a time getting to shore in the bouncing

people went to a rookery, but

to the Argentinian

I

decided to go directly there. The camp new contingent of

camp, about a half mile from

had been abandoned

for the last seven years.

294

A

THEODORE Argentinians arrived here

was a nice fellow named

HESBURGH

M.

about two weeks ago.

just

who

Ferrera,

gave

me

a big

The comandante

welcome and

We gathered

they would be delighted to have a Christmas Mass.

said

about

room and had the Mass, mainly in Spanish, with the comandante and one of the young seaman doing the readings in Spanish. Again, because we were about to be inundated a table in their little dining

with tourists in a few moments, in

went through the Act of Contrition

I

Spanish with them and gave them

they could receive

Communion

happy with the arrangement, but to Confession

when

all

general absolution so that

They seemed

quite

them they would have

to go

for Christmas.

told

I

they returned to Argentina, which would be the

next time they would be near a church.

A dozen of them assisted very piously at Mass and afterward took a

number of pictures around the altar. This makes three Masses ashore we should get overtime for the missionary activity.

in three days, so

However,

it's

been great fun and

to be

a delight

able to bring

Christmas to these isolated posts, with a Midnight Mass offered a few days early and in the afternoon.

Some

of the Argentinians

had Cokes and beer in Spanish,

who wanted

and then they were

They were

base.

for those

came back

really a nice

scientist, a biologist,

off

a half-hour conversation

on the bouncy

among them. Argentina

Islands, to the British.

We

sea back to the

group of mainly young men, with one

claim alive on these lands, having

first

it,

to the ship with us.

When we

lost

really

wants to keep

its

the Malvinas, or the Falkland

stepped ashore from the zodiac, the

thing the Argentinian sailor at the dockside said was

"Welcome

to Argentina."

We had a few good sessions at our debriefing this afternoon. Hughes, a bit

staff lecturer, talked

more complicated than

started the

first

it

on

glaciers in great detail.

seems when you

just

look at

leg of our journey to the Falklands

Terry

Nature it.

is

a

Then we

by heading toward

Elephant Island.

We

hadn't proceeded very far

when

the sea started to kick up,

and only about half of the people showed up looks like our good luck

on the

one of the worst in the world, again.

Anyway, we

trip is

for dinner tonight. It

south through the Drake Passage,

giving out

on

us as

should be at Elephant Island

295

we head north

(named

after the

TRAVELS WITH TED elephant seal that bit

lives there) early

rough and maybe

tomorrow morning.

will flatten out after that.

it

w.

hen we

Route

will

be a

24

Falkland Islands

to the

arrived at Elephant Island about 6:30 this morning, the

was surrounded by pack

island

It

Meanwhile, to bed.

SATURDAY, DECEMBER En

NED

&

ice.

The

scout boat tried to get

through, but the zodiac just couldn't cope with the high sea and the

heavy hunks of tightly packed glaciers floating

around the

ice.

There were

island.

The

also several

island itself

is

enormous

just a series of

massive peaks with one small peninsula going out to a small mountain

with a

bit of

beach that would not be overwhelmed by the sea

was here that Shackleton's lifeboats

winter.

men

gathered under their two overturned

and managed to survive

They

ice. It

for 105 days

through the Antarctic

arrived here around the middle of April.

When

Shack-

leton decided to leave and tried to get to South Georgia by boat in

the open sea, an 800-mile

he

trip,

left

winter was just beginning in earnest. the

last

on

Easter Sunday,

He would not

day of August, toward the end of winter.

men managed

to go through the

that looks this bad in early

Anyway, we and then

is

all

twenty-two

beyond imagination. However, all

twenty-two of them

morning because

We had a

it

Yelchro.

would have been

light breakfast, as befits

a long philosophical talk with Terry

University of Maine.

who were

get back here until

How

he landed on the Chilean boat

didn't land this

impossible in the zodiacs. Eve,

as

the

whole winter and survive in a place

summer

Shackleton did not lose a single man, and were on the beach cheering

when

Christmas

Hughes from the

He was mainly concerned about why

liberals

so valiant in the fight for civil rights are so totally in

agreement with abortion, which violates the most fundamental hu-

man

right of I

finally

all,

namely

decided

easy to take a shower

life.

Not an

was time to clean up

it

on

a rolling ship, but

clean again. Also, the laundry cleansing process.

Now

easy question to answer.

I

for Christmas.

accomplished

came back, which

to the Breviary

is

it

It's

not

and I'm

helpful in the

and to get a Christmas sermon

ready.

Because we'll be sailing

all

day en route to the Falkland Islands,

296

THEODORE

Elephant Island behind,

leaving

HESBURGH

M.

Peter Han-ison will

morning on the Totorore Expedition

lecture

this

Cape Horn. Peter was almost killed on that one, but I heard the lecture on the Amazon a year ago, so I'll take that time to work on the sermon. Another of our lecturers, Jack Child of American University, is on the

talking

on

to

politics of Antarctica at three this afternoon,

Hughes

at five, Terry

and

later

will give a lecture entitled "Antarctica, Ice

Ages, and the Rising Sea Level." As you can see, we're really getting educated.

We're going to have an early dinner because the the only dining

room

over

staff takes

Christmas dinner, and while they are

for their

eating, we'll see, of all things, Casablanca.

That

be over about

will

nine o'clock and then we'll have Christmas carols in French, German,

and English, followed by our Midnight Mass around we'll

have a

The

full

sea

11:30.

rolling about as badly as ever because we're

still

from north to south, although

east

seem

and

It's

really the

we

did earlier

time we're farther to the

this

to affect the waves,

west.

suspect

house tonight.

is

crossing the Drake Passage from south to north, just as

doesn't

1

which

are just as

east. It

bad on both

convergence of Atlantic and

their different winds and different currents that causes

sides,

Pacific all

with

of this

disturbance.

The Christmas members singing

carols

first,

came

off well,

with the Filipino crew

and then Peter Harrison's two

little girls,

ten

and eleven, sang a duet about Jesus and the manger, followed by Micheline Place, our cruise director, and her twin French.

Then we

all

chimed

in

sister singing in

with the secular "Rudolph the Red-

Nosed Reindeer" and religious songs for about twenty minutes. At 11:45 P.M., we went up to the Penguin Lounge for Midnight Mass. It was really starting to get rough. It was all we could do to keep

on our placed.

feet while It

hanging on to the

little

table

where we had the

altar

had to be the worst Mass we have had at sea for trying to

keep one's footing. All the hosts went

sailing off the altar early in the

The hall was quite three full. About half of them received Holy Communion. We sang of the old-time Christmas songs and decided to get people down to Mass, thank God, before we

had the Consecration.

their cabins while they could

wasn't

all

that great, because

still 1

navigate.

I

did the homily, but

spent 60 percent of

297

my

energy

it

just to

TRAVELS WITH TED keep standing on think what

We

I

my

NED

&

and then the other 40 percent trying

feet

was going to say next.

I

turned in about 1:30 A.M.

recommend

don't

It

to

it.

was a wonderful Christmas Eve

and everybody seems very happy.

SUNDAY, DECEMBER En e rolled

wasn't nailed glasses,

Route

25

Falkland Islands

to the

and pitched so much last night that everything that down wound up on the floor clothes, film, books,

—

alarm clocks,

Toward dawn, they came

etc.

in to close the

porthole because the water was hitting us so hard some of

coming through the

it

was

glass.

At 8 A.M., we did a couple of 35-degree rolls and everything in the galley went all over the floor, chairs broke loose from their

A

moorings, and the Christmas tree went over with a loud bang. of people ended up

down see

on the

floor of their cabin. After sliding

the bunk for a few hours since 5 A.M.,

what was happening above. At

coffee

and

a crust of bread.

breakfast, but better

It

least

I

I

lot

up and

decided to get up and

was able to get a cup of

wasn't the best Christmas morning

than nothing.

hard to describe the shambles

It's

of the galley, broken crockery everywhere.

After that,

I

came

into our Explorer's

Lounge

just before

one of

our passengers. Colonel Carl Buechner, got caught on another 35degree

roll

and went

one of the

sailing across the

barstools.

doctor, but doesn't

He

is

seem

now

room and whacked

his

head on

getting a massage from the ship's

much more than

to have

head. He's a pretty feisty guy, although he's older

bump on his than we are. The a

colonel said he didn't have any idea of what happened, and that's the

have

way

it is

after a

five stitches in his

quick accident.

head

after

One

I

guess

other passenger had to

being thrown against the wall in

the Penguin Lounge. Everyone seems to be lying low now, and our special Christmas dinner it's

is

going to be put off until tomorrow. Today

sandwiches, which are about

galley at the

moment.

It all

adds a

all

they can manufacture in the

little

spice to Christmas Day.

Here

comes the doctor now with her liniments.

We had a lecture this morning,

which Ned attended and I skipped

298

THEODORE because

Ned

just didn't feel like struggling

I

up to the top deck. However, good attendance, considering the bounciwhich seems to be worse in that lecture hall on the

had

said they

ness of the ship,

top deck, because

A off the

a pretty

higher and swings in a larger arc.

it's

reasonable

number showed up

Christmas dinner because

flipped off the shelves

to

HESBURGH

M.

cook with

for lunch, but they

and splattered on the

this 35-degree roll.

We

had

to put

of the crockery seemed to have

all

floor

and

it

was impossible

had BLT sandwiches and French

which were very good.

fries,

During lunch, the captain changed our course a northeast,

to

bit

the

away from our destination, so that we would have a

following sea rather than broadside waves. After lunch, he said he was

going back on course northwest and we had better get ourselves positioned somewhere where I

came back

we could

bounce

No. 211, and napped alternately

to our faithful cabin.

the ship continued to pitch and

and

off the table

roll

Ned and

survive the afternoon.

roll.

as

We're constantly having things

the length of the cabin. I'm glad

it

isn't

us.

About

3 P.M., since the rolling was

decided to try our

last

no

and no worse, we

better

two Christmas Masses. This morning

it

would

have been impossible.

We managed write a

new

ritual

However,

easy.

to get through without disaster.

on how

to offer

were happy to be able to do

The but

I

rest of the

doubt

it

think we could

Mass on a bouncing

at the heart of our

it is

I

ship.

It's

not

Christmas celebration and we

together.

day will be reasonably simple. Tea

is

scheduled,

that people will face the prospect of having their tea land

in their laps. Later there

is

a get-together for everyone to find out

what we're supposed to do tomorrow. The captain

still

thinks he can

land on the southernmost of the Falkland Islands at about 6:30 in the

morning and have calmed island. We'll

so we'll get an early call.

down

a bit, especially

we can

stomach

too,

is

certain to attend that one.

which

is

she would

say,

They

helpful, although we've

pretty well in the seasickness department. alive,

get into the lee of the

have dinner of sorts tonight, preceded by champagne

from the captain. Ned one's

if

By that time, the sea should

"Knock on

If

say

it

settles

both been doing

my mother

were

still

wood." There's a long night ahead,

and the captain promises more gale-force winds.

299

He

also promises the

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

ship won't turn over, and we're happy to take his word for that,

although

it

does

come

pretty far over

every twenty seconds, our curtains

hang

at a

on both

come

sides right

right out

now. About

from the wall and

45 -degree angle and then swing back again.

I

keep thinking

men. After depositing the other twenty- two on Elephant Island, he made this whole trip we're now making in an open boat. What's more, he did it in the wintertime,

of Shackleton and his survivors

whereas we're in

One

last

late spring.

choice for the day. At 9:15 tonight, they are showing a

video of Raiders of

the Lost

Ark, for those

deck again. Merry Christmas. Last year

it

We

who can make

it

to the top

won't forget this one in a hurry.

was Barbados on the QE2. Milder

fare.

MONDAY, DECEMBER

26

Falkland Islands

e arrived here just after six this morning. pilot in Stanley, the capital,

we came down

Having picked up a

to the south coast,

where

there are rookeries, both for Magellan penguins and for king penguins.

About 8 A.M., we went to shore on a nice sandy beach for a change. No slippery boulders, no raging surf. Then we started a walk for about a mile or so down the beach, where we saw the Magellan penguins

They cut these burrows in the ground just like rabbits and dwell there. They seem more skittish than some of the other penguins we have seen, for they are quickly into their burrows as soon as you get near to them. If you encounter them along scurrying into their burrows.

the beach, they jump into the waves and swim away. There was a it

was interesting

It's

the only place

sheepherder's bright white plaster house nearby, and to see the sheep intermingling with the penguins.

on earth that you'll get that picture. As we continued to the southern edge of the beach on the other side from where we landed, we met the most impressive penguins that we have seen thus far, the kings. They weigh about eighty pounds and stand about four feet high. They seem a trifle smaller than the emperors that I encountered at McMurdo Sound twenty-five years ago. However, the kings are a great bird in their larger

than the other penguins we have seen on

300

own

right,

this trip

much

and rather

THEODORE way they walk and

regal in the

HESBURGH

M.

in their red

and yellow coloring

in

They are also quite unafraid them without startling them.

addition to their black-and-white tuxedo.

and one can walk within

Ned managed It

a few feet of

to pet a couple of them.

seemed good

to get a long walk back up the

landing place. We've been cooped up somewhat for the

and everybody was anxious quite favorable. degrees.

It

no rubber pants and had Mass

two days,

The weather was also was overcast, with a temperature of about 45 I

just

this time.

at 11:30

makes the

factor always

wore a regular wool

shirt

beneath

with our Notre

Dame

eleven

couple. After lunch,

time on this

first

And

it.

We were back to the ship just before

be visiting Stanley, and for the

we'll

last

to stretch their legs.

Although down here the windchill

red parka feel good,

beach to our

this

trip,

afternoon we won't have to wear boots. Stanley should be interesting because the Falklands war was

mainly fought on land around inside

and the

this capital,

them

British nipping

with the Argentinians

off at every point.

The

naval

action took place between this island and the other large island,

although there are

penguin watching Point.

that

No one

Ned

many

this

smaller islands in this group. All of our

morning was done on a place called Volunteer

seems to know why

says the

to go out there

shepherd

who

it's

called Volunteer Point, except

lives in

the white house volunteered

and take care of the sheep. Until we get a better

explanation, we'll go with that one.

As soon

as

we were

or fifteen miles. There is

back aboard, we came around the northern

Falkland Island and into Port Stanley, a

tip of East

which

all

we met

trip of

about ten

our sister ship, the World Explorer,

a little larger than ours,

carrying 150 rather than

100

Amazon

The last November when she was going upriver and we down. As soon as we got to Port Stanley, the weather changed abruptly from fortyish and overcast to a steady sleety rain that made the time we saw her was

passengers.

in the middle of the

a year ago

temperature seem below zero. Also, the wind came up, which added to the cold

and

chill.

Again, we donned our foul-weather gear and

boarded a local launch that took us into the Right on the harbor front cathedral,

which used

jetty.

down the main

street

is

to be the bishopric for all of Latin

everything in the Antarctic.

Now 301

it's

the Anglican

America and

the parish church for the

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

Falklands and other surrounding islands and South Georgia, some 300 or

400 miles from here, from which our

came

sister ship,

morning. Incidentally, she was

this

foul weather.

We

were coming into

at

it

six

hours late because of the

an angle and she had

in the face. In other words, she pitched while

We

stopped at the cathedral

we

Board

a military chaplain

enormous battleship

War

here during World

World War

II.

and involved

which was dogged destroyers.

of that

who won

many

years

had

changed. There's an

a battle against the

is

Germans

battle nearby during

generally called the Battle of the River

famous German battle

a

is

There was another

I.

This one

all

the sanctuary that was given to the church

flag in

by the daughter of the admiral

in the

and

on our Advisory

cathedral was built ninety years ago and for

a bishop here. Now, of course,

Plate

is

Notre Dame's Ecumenical Institute in Tantur, near Jerusa-

for

The

lem.

right

rolled.

good friend of Bishop Robin Woods, who

a

it

saw the creche, and had a talk

He had been

with the rector. Father Murphy. is

first,

the World Explorer,

the Graf Spee,

cruiser,

the way to Uruguay by some outgunned British

all

They performed with

extraordinary valor, such as ours did

second battle of the Philippines. The British naval squadron

returned here after the River Plate engagement.

We

continued down the main

found a small shop and a post

bought the local coins.

I

street a

office.

few more blocks, where we

Ned made

also purchased

a few purchases

some Falkland stamps

About the only worthwhile items

library collection.

are sweaters, since the islands are full of sheep

Catholic church.

We

is

St.

member

of the Mill Hill Fathers, English missionaries,

his

When

priest,

He was a and his name us.

asked him where he was from, meaning

homeland, he mentioned Sames in the southern Tyrol. It's

about one chance in a million that meeting the parish priest

up a Ladin

in the Falklands turns

my

I

lot of

Mary's, the

knocked on the rectory door and a young

whose mother tongue was obviously German, greeted was Tony Agreiter.

I

in these shops

and they do a

knitting here. Right across from the post office

and

for our

first

summer

after

University in Rome. Brixen, in German).

Sames I

is

my

from the town where first

I

spent

year at the Gregorian

a small village above Bressanone (or

don't think one-millionth of the people in the

know where Sames Ferdinand Plottner, who

world

priest

completing

knew the ran the guesthouse where we is.

Father Tony even

302

priest,

Hen-

stayed that

THEODORE summer

HESBURGH

M.

of 1938. In fact, he told us a funny story.

were inspecting the

village,

was

it

at

Christmastime.

When the Nazis When they saw

Herr Plottner's creche, they tried to embarrass him by asking, "What

He

this?"

is

said,

"What do you

Bethlehem, and look

ox

is

closer, here

Mussolini and the donkey

is

is

think

it

the creche of

It's

an ox and here

Hitler. "

a donkey.

is

The next day

concentration camp, but he survived

off to a

is?

it,

they sent

The him

although somewhat

broken physically on his return. Good old Father Plottner. He always spoke before he thought, although in

would agree with what he

this case

I

think

many

of us

said.

WTiile having some schnapps and a cigar. Father Tony told us

knew some

that he

of our Holy Cross priests in Uganda, where he

Ned and Terry Hughes went out to do some more shopping. wandered down to the monument of the 1982 Falklands war. The inscription on the monument reads: "To our served

some

years ago, then I

1982." Father Tony told us that there are about 1,800

liberators,

people in the Falklands, most of them here on East Falkland Island

and maybe a few hundred over on West Falkland visiting a couple of small islands off

Island.

We'll be

West Falkland tomorrow

the rookeries for rockhopper penguins (our sixth and

to see

last species)

and

the giant albatross. Father Tony also told us that he has about 250

who live on the island and also military who happen to be Catholics.

Catholics out of some 1,800 people

he takes care of about 300 of the

He

also ministers to the military

miles from here.

now

there right

We ever

He

able to

is

for the

fly

on Ascension

up with the

Island,

some 2,000

military. His assistant

is

Christmas season.

continue to encounter these "small world" happenings wher-

we go

in this wide, wide world.

Stanley has a very English look and

lifestyle,

as

one

finds

throughout the former British Empire. The Anglican church could have come right out of any village in England, although the Catholic

church was

and

it

simple.

is

built, also

pretty plain.

There

guess that

There

is

The houses

are practically

in their fireplaces for 1

ninety years ago, by some Norwegian carpenters

no

are Britishy, but in a

trees

warmth. Even

on the

so,

island, so they

way more

bum

peat

the rooms are quite cold, but

the British style too.

are a few wrecks in the harbor. People

who had

time getting through the Strait of Magellan generally

303

a hard

came back here

TRAVELS WITH TED and were often

as a place of refuge

the harbor.

was

It

also used a

NED

&.

so battered that their ships sank in

good deal during the California gold

when people had to go to California by sailing around Cape Horn. Some just didn't make it and limped back here. The memory of the invasion of the islands by the Argentinians on April 2, 1982, is still very strong here. The whole island was only defended by about 80 Royal Marines when the Argentinians arrived with 10,000 troops, mainly schoolboys who were told they were going to another part of Argentina where they would be welcomed. The Argentinians were really surprised when the British took them up on

rush,

and came

their dare

in here with a force a fourth the size of the

Argentinians and whipped them badly and very quickly. Most people

was unnecessary to sink the Argentinian battleship Belgrano

felt it

with a

loss of life of

from here

almost 400, since she was several hundred miles

the time and not engaged in the action directly.

at

Argentinian planes flying over from the mainland would arrive here

with only

minutes of combat time before returning

five

of fuel depletion.

The Argentinians used mostly A-4s

obtained from us and did

one being the

aluminum

Sheffield,

to be

to sink

which had

They

scuttled. All in

quite a large loss of

also badly all,

make

life

vessels,

because the

No more aluminum

damaged

t\vo troopships,

for

which

though, the Argentinians fought

ver>'

Many

fliers

back because returning to the Argentinian coast found

it

lost

All in

fuel before they could land.

them running out of Argentinians

had

that they

badly, even though their air force performed feats of valor. didn't

because

two or three British

superstructure burst into flames.

British naval ships.

had

manage

home

about a fourth of their

air force,

all,

the

mostly to British

Harrier planes.

From

all

we could

learn, the Falkland Islanders are a rather tight-

knit group and are happy to be back in the British fold and don't even to think about being turned over to Argentina, even

want

though the

Argentinians continue to call these islands the Islas Malvinas.

From

we have

in so

the looks of the weather today, again

many

other places, this

live here.

your

They

say

is

we can

say, as

a nice place to visit but

I

wouldn't want to

you can count the sunny days on the

hand, and when

it

rains

and

sleets at the

in for a chilling, stinging experience,

fingers o{

same time, you're

which was ours

really

today.

Tonight we have the deferred Christmas dinner and the captain's

304

THEODORE cocktail party.

It

HESBURGH

M.

was too rough

for

make

they

Christmas Day. The dinner

it

turned out to be about seven courses,

well prepared. Fortunately,

all

their courses small so that

one can sample almost every-

thing without feeling stuffed.

Ned went minutes or

said

Ned bought

at once.

movie tonight, but quit

to the

He

so.

was rubbish.

it

It's

first

published by Reader's Digest and

complete physical, historical,

and geological look

photography

book

is

as well.

Barbara Tuchman's

particularly the naval part.

well done.

She never

We're both reading

new It's

American Catholicism.

It's

and conservative or pre-Vatican

II

and

I

Gene

think does

it

tries to get into

quite well.

John Paul

Dame

as

II

both

I

cultures.

must carry

He

(culture

cites

He

I)

me

all

work together, but

certain matters, mainly

The

best thing

he

says

how

where

I

Eugene

as culture

I.

He

II

II is

side

by

are simply

on

to cope with II is

says,

II

puts Pope

also cites the University of

about culture

and

is

and post-Vatican

Notre

side.

the culture of the future

of the baggage of the past.

Catholicism. This mystery, he legislation, control,

book

extremely

an example of culture

as

believes that both cultures live together in the

together,

is

the subtleties of the differences,

obviously believes that culture

and culture

third

and

Church: The Two Cultures

an example of both cultures existing

Gene

The second

too easy to call Catholics liberal

and the Cardinal Archbishop of Detroit in

Won-

an interesting sociological study of the It's

II).

The

Yesterday's

two currents in the Church today.

(culture

this one.

First Salute

writes a dull book.

Kennedy's Tomorrow's Catholics, of

The

a

American Revolution,

history of the

called

is

at the Antarctic

continent and the various explorations that took place there. derful

ten

book on the Antarctic from the

a wonderful

literature stock aboard.

the

after

been reading three books

I've

He even

same Church, pray

different wavelengths in

modem

that

it

life

and

reality.

savors the mystery of

should not be buried under

a too great emphasis

on

organization. That's

was when Ned came back from the movie and we both turned

in about 11;30.

305

TRAVELS WITH TED TUESDAY, DECEMBER FaMand

I

t

NED

& 27

Islands

was quite rough during the night when we rounded East Falkland

and continued across the

Island

between the two

strait

islands to

West

Falkland Island. About six this morning, we anchored off the coast of

West Falkland

at a little island called Carcass.

The

was

island

full

of

mainly ducks and hawks, albatrosses wheeling on the seaward

birds,

guess that

means small

landbirds, like thrushes, as contrasted with the seabirds,

which tend

side,

and

a lot of little birds they call dickeys.

Anyway, there was

to be larger.

sunshine, which is

in the zodiacs. at the site

we

On

got a bit soaked

shore,

we

coming

to shore

Scotland, and

just

It's

wandered up and down the beaches

just

covered with mossy

the sheep are mainly

men and women on

horseback.

As

as a

team.

I

on

dogs, directed by

in Australia, they claim that

guess most of

it is

this

the moors of

hills like

managed by

dog can take care of 1,000 sheep and two dogs do

They work

wind

and returning

of a sheep farm which has about 1,200 sheep here

smallish island.

2,000.

and bright

a beautiful blue sky

quite a contrast from yesterday. However, the

is

quite high and

I

much

one

better with

instinct with a bit of

training.

We

all

gathered at the farmhouse, where the lady of the house

and her husband gave us least

tea

and scones. There was a table with

ten different kinds of scones on

Back

all

it,

to the ship in time for a lecture by Jack

Child on the

Falklands war. We've already picked up a lot of talk about various islanders we've met. island, but everything

never

knew

The Argentinians

was cut

to

happen

island.

They

also

saw the planes

war and they

until British

commandos

no Argentinians on

finally landed to learn that there were

flying

from the

it

didn't touch this little

off for the duration of the

what was going

quite

at

very tasty.

this small

overhead from time to time

and, of course, there was considerable naval action not too

far

from

here in the channel between the two large islands.

Mass again activities

and

at

noontime.

left for

We

had

They claim

it

on

this afternoon's

shore about 3:15. Shore happens to be

Island. Before leaving, they put in a island.

a briefing

new

rule.

No

was because of dry conditions, but

306

New

smoking on the it

looked

THEODORE pretty wet

and muddy

to

experienced on the QE2,

We

arrived at the

me.

HESBURGH

M.

think

I

once again,

it's

just prejudice against cigar

end of the

island in a cove

gentlemen who own the island both

where the two

been married three times and has had children from each other

is

married to the

They

that out.

first

gentleman's second wife,

if

wife.

you can

has

The

figure

don't talk to each other, even though they are here

this isolated place living in

prove that isolation

Once

One

with their families.

live

we had

as

smokers.

ashore,

no automatic boon

is

on

houses about 100 feet apart. This should

we climbed up

to virtue.

a long, sloping hill, mostly spongy

heath, with about 2,000 sheep here and there. At the top of the

we overlooked an enormous rookery

climb,

They

of rockhopper penguins.

are very cute, with weird yellow feather tufts

coming out of each

side of their heads, generally white against black.

unusual eye formations. slopes

them

And hop rocks

and even going down with at the top of the rookery,

above a roaring, crashing albatross,

his

make

great surefootedness.

which was about 100

Mingled with to

200 yards

were the nests of the wandering

their nests here

each

year.

and have the same mates. They don't

way and she goes

South Africa. They spread.

also have

almost built up like a chimney. They come from 4,000

miles away to nests

sea,

They

they do, coming up very steep

At nesting

hers,

he to

are terrific

New

fliers

They

use the

travel together.

He

same goes

Zealand and she possibly to

and have an enormous wing-

time, they rendezvous here within twenty-four

hours of each other.

We

were back to the shore in about an hour and a quarter and then out to the ship. Since we're at anchor and quiet, I decided to take a shower, which is a lot easier in these circumstances than when rolling 35 degrees.

It's

pretty tough to soap

up and wash

being in proximate danger of losing one's footing at any

off while

moment on

the slippery floor. Besides, the quarters are very tight in the bathroom.

Anyway, the deed

is

done and now I'm ready

to start out clean

on our

last lap.

We're going to another

inlet a

few miles up the beach and there

have a barbecue on shore. The barbecues are always great, so we look forward to a pleasant evening and maybe even early to bed. Who

we'll

knows?

When we

return to the ship after the barbecue tonight,

307

we begin

TRAVELS WITH TED

NED

&

our long journey over 300 miles from here to Punta Arenas, via the

famous

We

Strait of Magellan.

plan to get there about 9 A.M. the day

tomorrow, which means about a day and a half of

after

sailing, if all

goes well and the weather behaves.

WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER En

Route

to

2

Punta Arenas

Nc

ot so rough during the night, but a steady roll that

to.

We

woke up

one

gets used

to a moderately bright day with thin, high overcast

and the sun breaking through. All around the ship

are the

enormous

albatrosses and the smaller pintado petrels. Just watching them

makes one envious. They

are so graceful

ease. Hardly ever moving their wings

as

and they do

it

fly

with such

now

they circle the ship,

dipping to the water's edge and then soaring high above us with effortless ease.

We

No wonder

they can go thousands of miles at a time.

should be getting very near to the east coast of South

America

late this

afternoon or evening. Let's hope the calm seas keep

up.

This a

the day of winding things up.

is

new birdman who

I

They

aboard and will join the other ship, the World

Punta Arenas, before she heads south on the

Explorer, in

took.

is

A final talk on penguins by

call this

new

lecturer "Mr. Penguin Himself,"

trip

we

just

Frank Todd.

guess Peter Harrison will have to be "Mr. Albatross."

This

The

is

the day for cleaning up

all

of the loose ends, also packing.

nice thing about a sea trip like this

once.

Then

wonderful to

there

is

the matter

us, trying to find

is

of tips

that you only have to pack to a crew that has

been

the tickets where one thought he put

them two weeks ago, deciding what to throw away and what to keep, and generally getting some order into the chaos of

Our German

captain, Ralf Zander,

is

this cabin.

giving us a farewell cocktail

party tonight and the captain's farewell dinner, of course, following that.

They then

Lounge very

at

little

will feature

9:30 P.M. There

music and dancing in the Explorer's

may be

music, but

I

suspect there will be

dancing, since we'll be arriving at Punta Arenas around six

tomorrow morning,

all

going well.

308

THEODORE

HESBURGH

M.

THURSDAY, DECEMBER

29

Punta Arenas, Chile

e arrived at

6:30 for

Mass

Now we're

at

Punta Arenas

at six this

seven with our Notre

off for a bus tour of the city,

morning and we're up

Dame couple, Bob and Ruth. which we saw quite thoroughly

a year ago

when we were down

Canepa.

was the farthest south of our Latin American

It

here with Ernie Bartell and George

gone considerably more to the south We'll have lunch and a

hope

little free

It's

been another great

some good

Kennedy book to

trip, for

as chaplains. last

time in town before leaving at later, to

At

to

Airlines.

which we

least

we

are grateful.

tried.

night and have a couple more

I

think we

finished the

I

I

Gene

can read en route

Notre Dame. After getting back from the deep south, our biggest

desire

is

to find out what's

News aboard

weeks.

ship

happened is

Time magazine when we get

As we

in the world during the past

At

least

trip

trip

home was

Route

airplane,

a

727,

As

flight to

returned this

the way to Miami.

all

Miami. Actually, we used the

which meant we had usual,

we

didn't get the

emergency door, through which cold

wasn't doing very recline,

We

was nice from Punta Arenas to Santiago, where we spent a

Guayaquil, Ecuador. to the

is.

30

about what one could expect.

couple of hours waiting for our

same

hope there

Home

time on Ladeco Airlines from Punta Arenas

The

I

say in Chile, adios.

En JL he

two

sketchy at best. Anyway, there's always to Santiago.

FRIDAY, DECEMBER

much

air

to stop for fuel

best seats.

was

I

whereas mine wouldn't recline

at all.

infiltrating.

An>^ay,

it

at

was next

better; his seat kept sliding back to

Ned full

was a long

was impossible to cut the meat

We were so crammed in that dinner without being a contortionist. Anyway, we arrived in Miami

night. at

Miami, where we

tomorrow morning. At 9 A.M., back

to arrive about 5:30

Chicago and South Bend via Midway

did

We've

trip.

this time.

and then two hours

5 P.M. for Santiago

at

on time and our bags

it

arrived too, thanks be to the

309

Good

Lord.

TRAVELS WITH TED Then Ned went

off to the Fiesta

Bowl

in

NED

&

Tempe, Arizona, and

I

came back to South Bend. This time I came on Midway AirUnes and arrived on time in Chicago for my short connection to South Bend. When we all boarded the small commuter airplane, the second engine wouldn't start, so we had to take another small plane to Elkhart, where Marty, our

faithful chauffeur,

was waiting.

him from Chicago and divert him to Elkhart. As expected, the pile of mail was very high and at

it

past midnight, but

as befits

I'm

mostly under control and

Christmastime. This time

American is

it's

was able to

1

it

all

really adios.

is

still

of

working

it is

Our

Foundation for the Survival and Development of

call

good

Russian-

Humanity

having a meeting in a few days in Washington and then another

meeting in Moscow beginning on January off to a

good

start.

Amid

his group in Russia

So the New Year

1

might collaborate with him

on promoting human

countries, as well as in the Third World. All in

a great year.

Ned

And

New

Year.

all for

rights in all,

1

both of our

look forward to

has the responsibility of getting us a victory in

Tempe. So does Lou Holtz.

one and

gets

the large stack of mail tonight was a letter

from Andrei Sakharov suggesting how

and

13.

a great

with that, good night and

310

God

bless

AFTERWORD ^v

A,

.nd so the yearlong journey

came

to

an end.

(if

you take out the in-betweens)

had gone exactly

It

we had hoped:

as

new and unusual

different experience with

a totally

scenes and people, each

day a welcome surprise.

Retirement had begun with a bang, not a whimper.

made had

a clean break between the old

to admit that

surprisingly

What

much

gets

had

had happened was unplanned, but

that

welcome and within the span of our previous hopes. does one think and do

over? Obviously, especially

one

We

and the new. Looking back, we

down

to

if

when

—

it

one belongs

work again, and

so

we

do

to

first

clean break

to a religious

—

is

community,

have. In the four years that

have so quickly passed since the end of our

more than enough

that

trips,

we have both found

at the university, as well as

beyond, thank

God. We've made

clear to all of our associates at the university that

know and understand

that

we

fact.

Naturally, because

no we wish

are

executive vice president, nor do

we continue

we

longer the president and the to be, either in

to live at

name

or in

Notre Dame, some

colleagues occasionally try to get us to voice an opinion

when

a

controversy or a crisis arises. We remind them that we have no desire to second-guess our able successors. These fine young Holy Cross priests are

even

going their

own good way and

our comments are unneeded,

we were of a mind to comment, which we aren't. Our friends and associates are still old friends, and associates if

311

too,

TRAVELS WITH TED although on a different footing. gracefully, but

with a

It

takes a

goodwill

little

little

NED

&

time for this to happen

around, and especially no

all

on our part, it happens naturally enough. News media remain inquisitive. That's natural too, because you can't shut them off completely after years of giving them frequent hypersensitivity

However,

interviews.

changed retire

status,

they too

someday, and

In a way,

one

if

they'll

honest with reporters about one's

is

come want

to understand. They'll also have to to

do

would have been

it

gracefully.

it

easier

despite our returning here as ex-this to be helpful in

some ways.

We

we had

if

thousand miles away from Notre Dame, but

I

retired a few

have this sense that,

and ex-that, we have been able

have a

fairly

open and

relationship with the alumni of our thirty-five years here.

positive

They

are

always reminding us of wonderful encounters during years past, and

we do

and thank

laugh, reminisce,

God

together for good years,

generous graces, and happy memories.

Then new

there are the worldwide challenges in the work that the

administration has commissioned us to do through the various

Dame

Notre

international institutes

on peace, economic and

development in the Third World, human

political

ecumenism, and

rights,

now to become even more involved worldwho direct these institutes by keeping them

ecology. Because I'm free

wide,

I

can help those

informed on what

is

happening in

several

dozen similar organizations

around the world.

Ned boards,

has his collateral

giving

me

on

of duties, serving

wise guidance

a variety of fronts.

on

several foundation

on the Knight Commission on

and lending

Intercollegiate Athletics, efforts

list

his expertise to fund-raising

Somehow

all

both hope we can continue

—and not be

to be useful

We

the days pass quickly.

never seem to get really caught up on

we

that needs doing, but in the

—

way

as

the years pass. 1

guess

we

are particularly blessed to belong to such

an under-

standing institutional family in which the old team can find meaningful service

Most

without being at cross-purposes with the new leadership.

retirees don't

have

it

that easy, but the world

the opportunities and the needs are many. retirees

could find such a

fruitful

I

niche as we have.

might have such a wonderful year

off as

312

we

did.

is

very large and

would hope that I

also

There

is

all

hope that nothing

all

like

'

THEODORE it

to give

one pause and perspective on the years

determination to make them I

HESBURGH

M.

began by saying that

retirement.

1

yet ahead

this

is

a

book about

travel,

but also about

would hope that these few notes would reassure fellow go on, and can be

retirees that life does

all

that

we want

to be.

it

the difference between stopping dead and changing course.

choose the

There

is

latter

and continue

I

remember the wonderful

final stanza

that has

'The fbetry of Robert

from Robert

Frost's

Taken":

roads diverged in a wood, and

took the one

And

happy and productive.

it.

poem "The Road Not Two

to be both

It's

May you

a way for everyone, different for each. You just have to find

your path and follow Just

and a

fruitful.

I

—

less traveled by,

made

all the difference.

Frost, edited

by

E. L.

Latham (New

1969), p. 105.

313

York: Holt, Rinehart

and Winston,

INDEX

Acapulco (Mexico), 191-92, 267 Adelaide (Australia), 217-18 Adler, Mortimer, 7, 26 Agra (India), 234, 235 Agreiter, Father Tony, 302, 303 Agren, Marty, 272

Barbados (Lesser Antilles), 173 Barnes, Harry, 149 Baro, Father Ignatius Martin, 100-101

Agriculture,

Bartell, Father Ernie, 148, 150,

7, 9,

Baja California, 192, 265

Nunez de, 188 Bangkok (Thailand), 243-44 Balboa,

22, 50, 52, 73, 88, 97,

111, 118, 120-21, 139, 165, 184, 206,

Bartmen,

242

Alegria (Peru), 116

250, 254, 257, 260, 262, 264 Beijing (China), 247, 251, President),

96

164-65, 167 Arias Sanchez, Oscar (Costa Rican dent), 103

Belem

rights in,

Presi-

(Brazil), ix, 130,

Arizona, 74-77

Besoain,

Bhabha, Dr. Homi, 236

Aruba (Netherlands Antilles), 174 Aspen (Colorado), 7, 8

Biolchini,

Western, 221

Avarua (Rarotonga), 202 Aylwin, Patricio (Chilean President), 148 Azcona Hoyo, Jose (Honduran President),

95-96 Badajos (Brazil), 126 Bailey,

Al and Mary, 246

132-33

Bellingham (Washington), 56, 60 Beltranena, Luis and Renee, 92, 95 Bercher, Kenneth, 238, 239

Arizona (ship), 262

Asuncion (Paraguay), 159-61 Auckland (New Zealand), 203-8 Australia, 206, 212-23 economic situation, 219

253-55

Belcher, Jon, 229

Argentina, 162-67, 295

human

26

7,

Bauchman, Bob and Alice, 47-48, 225, 228 Bay of Islands (New Zealand), 204, 205 Beagle Channel (Tierra del Fuego), 277, 278 Beauchamp, Father Bill, x Beauchamp, Faye, 225, 228, 230, 234, 245,

ix,

Anchorage (Alaska), 62-65 Antarctica, 280-300 Antigua (Guatemala), 92 Arctic Circle, ix, 64 Arevalo, Cerezo (Guatemalan

156

203-4

Barzun, Jacques,

60-69 Albuquerque (New Mexico), 77-79 Alaska,

Bill,

Omar, 105

Billington, Jim, xii-xiii

45,

Bob and 46-47

Fran, 37, 38, 39-40, 44,

Blanco, Monsignor Guillermo, 166

Bogota (Colombia), 83, 104-5 Boiling,

Bombay

Landrum, 177 (India), 233-37

Bonaire (Netherlands Antilles), 174

Botany Bay (Australia), 206 Brademas, John, xii Brady, Jerry and Ricci, 40 Brandon, Allen, 78 Brazil, ix, 142-46 Brenner, Steve, 61

314

INDEX 96 Columbia (Canada), 53-54

Corcovado (Mountain, Brazil), 142, 144 Cordon, Adolfo and Margaret. 92, 95 Corrigan, Gene, 3 Cortez, Hernando. 87, 90, 106

Briggs, Ted,

British

Brooks, Dr. Edward, 237

Canyon (Utah),

Bryce

31

Buckley, Father Joe, 207

Cortez (Colorado), 21 Cosenza, Humberto, 97

Buechner, Colonel Carl, 298

Buenos Aires (Argentina), 83, 162-67 Burke, Father John,

Costa Rica, 102-3 Cottingham, Mike, 43 Cousteau, Jacques, 282, 292 Crater Lake (Oregon), 69-71 Cristobal (Panama), 189 Cronin, Tom and Tanya, 26-27

xii, xiii

Butte (Montana), 49

Byron, Ted, 59

Cabot, Tom, 173

Cuemavaca (Mexico), 90-91 Cunningham, Ollie, xv, 59, 79

Caldera, Rafael, 269

70-74 Callahan, Brian, 246 Cambodia, 245 California,

Campbell, David, 119, 132 Canada, 53-55 Canberra (Australia), 213 Canepa, Father George, 147, 148, 150, 156,

276 Canty, Rev.

Curasao (Netherlands Antilles), 174, 175 Curtin, Mike, 158 Custer, Colonel George, 10 Cuxin Mini (Brazil), 124 Cuzco(PeRi), 109-11, 113-14 D'Arcy, Father Bernard, 183, 227, 243, 245,

W., 228 Cape Horn (Chile), 278-80, 281 Caracas (Venezuela), 269

257, 271

J.

Carley, Father Fat, 35

Deception Island (Antarctica), 281, 283 Decio, Art, xv, 3, 80 Deforestation, 120-22

Carlisle, Kitty, 173

Delany, Father Charles, 276

Carlton, Colonel Charles, 97

De La

Cartagena (Colombia), 175, 176, 187 Carter, Jimmy, 149, 259 Carter, Rosalynn, 177

de Lesseps, Ferdinand, 188

South Dakota), San Francisco (Bogota, Colombia), 106 Catlin, George, 40 Cavanaugh, Father John, xi, xii, xiii, xv, 7 Caves of Kanheri (India), 236 Charlotte Amalie (St. Thomas), 184, 185, Falls,

186

Cheyenne (Wyoming),

13

Child, Jack, 297, 306 Chile,

ix,

104, 105

Bill and Yolanda, 84, 85, 88, 91 Denver (Colorado), 13 de Sa, Gustavo and Cristiana, 142, 143, 144,

Compania (Bogota, Colombia), 106 (Sioux

Ramon,

Dellekamp,

Cathedrals St. Joseph's

Ton-e,

145 !

Dias de Moura, Father Laercio, 143

Donoso, Father Fermin, 148 Dorsey, Father Joe, 147, 276 Drake, Francis, 175

Drake Passage, 279, 280-81, 295, 297 Drigueros, Guillermo, 100

Drug

trade, 105, 117

Duarte, Jose Napoleon (Salvadoran President), 99

147-54, 276-80, 309

Duncan, Vince, 22 Dunn, John, 162, 167

China, 251-56 Cholula (Mexico), 89 Cintron, Juan, 84, 85, 87, 88, 90, 194

Easter Island, 198

Clark, David, 160 Cliff dwellings (Utah),

Coari

(Brazil),

21-22

126

Cody, Bill (Buffalo Bill), 44 Colombia, 104-6, 175, 187, 189 Colon (Panama), 189 Colorado, 7, 13, 15-18, 21-29

Columbus, Christopher, 188 Conroy, Terry and Bobby, 233 Coober Pedy (mine), 217-18 Cook, Captain James, 206, 216 Cook, Mount (New Zealand), 210

Cook

Islands,

198

Coos Bay (Oregon), 69-70

East Falkland Island (Falkland Islands), 303

Ecuador, 105-6

Eden, Mount (New Zealand), 207

Edgecumbe, Mount (Alaska), 61, 62 Eisenhower Tunnel (Colorado), 14, 15 Elephant Island (Antarctica), 294, 295, 296,

300 Elliott,

Win, 197

Ellsworth, Lincoln, 282 El Salvador,

99-102

English, Father Joe, 157, 158

Eureka (California), 70-71 Emngelista (ship),

315

ix,

155-57

INDEX Facusse, Mike, 95, 97

Halfpenny, Sarah, 173

Fairbanks (Alaska), 65-68

Halligan, Father John, 106

Falkland Islands, 162, 295, 296, 299, 300-8

Halluska,

Ed and Helen, 237 Hank, Jerry and Joyce, 4, 5, 17, 33, 45, 48 Hansen, Waldemar, 196, 223, 232, 234

Farmer, Father Paul, 202

Fenlon, Father Tom, 52

Fernando de Noronha Fiji, 203 Fischer, Ed, 226

(Brazil),

Harney, Mount (South Dakota), 11

137

Harriman, Pamela, 173 Harrison, Peter, 134, 135, 136, 141, 277,

280, 290, 297, 308

Fisher, Frederick Vining, 32

Fishing,

Harvey, Len and Ann, 243

40-41, 63, 126, 206, 230, 248, 262,

Hawaii, 198, 260-63

283 Flynn,

Tom and

Foley,

Archbishop

Hawkins, Thomas, 175

Ruth, 262 Bill,

Herzog, Herman, 40

222

Hesburgh, James, 13, 73

Ford, Gerald, 17, 18 Forests, National,

Hesburgh Center

29

Black Hills (South Dakota), 12

for International Studies,

265, 271

Dixie (Utah), 31

Hickel, Walter, 62

Gallatin (Idaho), 48

HoUiday, Tom, 163 Honduras, 95-99

Targhee (Idaho), 47 Tbngass (Alaska), 61

Hong Kong, 245-48

Franca, Celio, 27

Honolulu (Hawaii), 259, 262 Hood, Mount (Oregon), 58

Fremantle (Australia), 220-23

Hosinski, Helen, 18, 28, 46, 72, 142, 186,

Foxley, Alejandro, 148

Fundeen, Pat and Carl, 63

217, 265

Gallivan, Jack, 33

Gamble, Jody, 266 Garcia, Alan (Peruvian President), 107-8 Gauguin, Paul, 196-97

Columba, 222

Howard, Hughes,

Terry, 295, 296, 297,

Humane

Imperative,

Sister

303 The (Hesburgh), 86

Hunger, John, 259 Hunthausen, Father Jack, 51, 52 Hurley, Archbishop Frank, 62, 63, 68

Geological history, 19-20, 31, 39, 75, 184, 210, 219

Idaho, 47-48

Giganti, Jorge, 141

233-37

Gilbert, Ralph, 237

India,

Gildred, Ted, 164

Indian Ocean, 241

Owen, 237, 239 Ben and Rosalie, 260

Gingerick,

International date line, 203, 239, 261

Gingiss,

Iowa, 5-7 Iquitos (Peru), ix, 115

Glacier Express (ship), 68 Glaciers, 51, 62, 68, 151, 153, 154, 295,

296

Glenwood Springs (Colorado), 18 God, Country, hlotre

Dame

(Hesburgh),

192

Iturralde, Ernesto, Ivers,

106

Jim, 34

xi,

Jackson,

Anne and Jack, 272

Goethals, George, 189

Jackson (Wyoming), 37-47

(British Columbia), 53-55 Goldsmith, Donald, 237, 238 Gorgas, William, 189

Jalapa (Mexico), 87

Gorglum, Gutzon,

Johore Bahru (Malaysia), 242

Golden

11

Japan,

257-60

Johore, Sultan of (former)

Grand Canyon (Arizona), 18, 74-76 Grand Junction (Colorado), 18

Jones, Charlie, 192

Grant, Jim and Ethel, 259, 260 Great Australian Bight, 218, 220

Judge, Father Tony, 126

Great Wall (China), 251 Griffin, Walter Burley, 213-14 Grimes, George, 14 Griswold, Dean, 177

Guatemala, 92-97 Guatemala City (Guatemala), 93-95

Juarez- Paz, Rigoberto,

Half

Moon

Island (Antarctica), 294

241

94

Juneau (Alaska), 68-69 Kaiser, Father

Roman, 63

Kaplow, Herbert, 186, 190 Kauai (Hawaii), 262

Keams, Tom, 34 Keeler, Ruby, 194, 196, 201,

Keith, David, 34

Hagerty, Fred, 157

,

Kenna, Doc, 83, 136, 199 Kenya, 228-30

316

204

1

INDEX Kenyatta, Jomo, 229

Mascarene archipelago, 227

Keough. Dtm, 269 King George Island (Antarctica), 290, 291 King Salmon (Alaska), 63 Knox, Father Ronald, xii Kompare, Or. Edward, 75, 76 Kotzebue (Alaska), ix, 64, 65, 66 Kraft, John, 229 Kroc, Joan, 83, 265 Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia), 240-41

Massie, Robert,

La Guaira (Venezuela), 269-70 Landiver, Rafael, 92 Lang, Federico, 98 Lantao Island (Hong Kong), 248

Micronesia, 198

Leader, Boh, 8 Lederer, Eppie, 84, 113 Leibin,

Bob and Ruth, 282-83

xii

Maui (Hawaii), 262-63 Mauritius, 224-28

Mekong

Delta, 245

Melanesia, 198

Melbourne (Australia), 215-17 Mesa Verde (Colorado), 21 Mexico, ix, 84-92, 267 Mexico City (Mexico), 84-88 Michener, James, 61, 174, 255

Midway

Island, 261

Mignone, Emilio, 164 Mining, 23, 34-35, 48, 90, 142, 221 Missoula (Montana), 49 Missouri Valley (Iowa), 5-7

Moab

(Utah), 18

Leon, Patsy, 84 Leticia (Colombia), 117

Molas Lake Pass (Colorado), 23 Molokai (Hawaii), 262

Levy, Gabriel and Sylvia, 269, 270

Mombasa

107-9 Lindberg, Kay Kelly, 217, 218 Link, David, 222 Livermore (California), 73

Montana, 49-52

Lima

(Peru),

Livestock, 24, 121, 151, 165, 206, 214, 219,

306, 307 Lleno, Dr. Sabino, 88 Lloyd, Frank, 67

Long Beach

(California), 194

Lopez de Legazpe, Miguel, 267 Lord, Betty Bao, 254, 255

Monument

Moore, Bishop Paul, 1 73 Moorea, 198, 199, 200 Moriwaki, Father Peter, 258 Morrison, Bernard, 214 Moynihan, Jim, 258 Murphy, Father Mike, 51 Murray, Father Ray, 65

Museums Buffalo Bill (Cody, Wyoming), 37 Great American Wildlife (Jackson, Wyoming), 39, 42

Lozano, Ignacio and Marta, 148

Don, 67

Imperial

McBrien, Father Dick, 208 McCafferty, Father Mike, 9, McCarthy, Paul, 66

(Peru), 83,

(Petrolis, Brazil),

144

Museum

of History and Anthropology (Mexico City, Mexico), 84 National Museum (Kuala Lumpur, Malay-

1

sia),

240

Prince of Wales

Museum (Bombay,

234

111-13

Mackay, Bishop John, 202 Macks Inn (Idaho), 47-48 Madagascar, 228 Mahe (Seychelles), 231 Malaysia, 237-41 Malloy, Father

Museum

Museo de Oro (Quito, Ecuador), 107

McDermott, Father Tom, 228, 229 McEneaney, Father John, 8 McGovem, George and Eleanor, 232, 233 MacGregor, Felipe, 108

Machu Picchu

Valley (Arizona), 77

Mooney, John, 36

Lord, Winston, 246, 253, 254 Lucia,

(Kenya), 228-30

Nanjing (China), 247 Native groups, 161 Aboriginal, 220

Aleut, 66

Amazonian, 115-16, 118, 122-24 Anasazi, 21, 22, 32, 42, 76

"Monk," x

Malvinas Islands. See Falkland Islands Mansfield, Mike, 259

Apache, 66 Athabaskan, 66

Maran, Stephen, 238 Marchant, Ricardo, 269 Margeot, Archbishop Jean, 227 Marinho, Roberto, 143 Mariscal, Nicholas and Mari Carmen, 91 Marroquin, Bishop Francisco, 92 Martinique (Lesser Antilles), 173, 174, 270

Aztec, 89, 106, 191

Caribbean, 184

Ecuadoran, 105

Eskimo, 66 Guatemalan, 93 Hopi, 75 Inca, 83, 106,

317

109-11

India),

INDEX Maori, 206, 207

Pattaya (Thailand),

Mauritian, 227

Peace Corps, 96, 157, 158-59, 160, 254 Pearl Harbor (Hawaii), 261, 262

Maya, 90, 106

243-44

Peru, 107

Pembroke Peak (New Zealand), 210 Penang (Malaysia), 239-40

Polynesian, 198

ftnfold, John, 96, 97

Navajo, 21, 66, 75, 76

Needles (California), 73-74

People's Republic of China. See

Nelson Island (Antarctica), 290, 291 New Mexico, 77-79 New Zealand, 198, 201-11 Niemeyer, Oscar, 146 Nome (Alaska), 64, 66 Noriega, Manuel (Panamanian President), 268 North Island (New Zealand) 206

Perth (Australia), 221-23

107-14 Don, 159-60 I^tropolis (Brazil), 144-45 Pfeiffer, Ralph and Jane, 272 Philip, Captain Arthur, 204 Pico, Cristina, 269 Pinto, Jaime, 107, 114 ftni, ix,

Peterson,

,

Pizarro, Francisco, 105, 106,

Oahu

(Hawaii), 262

O'Brien, Mike, 96, 98

Plottner, Father Ferdinand, Pollard, Morris,

O'Connor, Father Dutch, 74 Oddo, Father Tom, 57 O'Grady, Ann, 158 Oklahoma, 79 Olbrich, Captain Torsten, 141 Old Faithful (Geyser, Wyoming), 45

Polynesian triangle, 198

(Brazil),

Olivares,

Port Louis (Mauritius), 227

Eden (Chile), 155 Tony and Martha, 77 Powers, Jimmy, 266 Port of

Poter\ziani,

138

Romero, 149, 150

Rim, 222

Paekakiriki

(New Zealand), 209

Pagosa Springs (Colorado), 24 Palmer Peninsula (Antarctica), 275

Pamplona, Carlos, 191 Panajachel (Guatemala), 92-94 Panama Canal, 185, 188-90 Pao de Aqucar (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil), 144 Papeete (Tahiti), 194, 199 Paradise Bay (Antarctica), 288, 290 Paraguay, 159-61

Poyares, Walter, 143

Prance,

Arches (Utah), 19 Badlands (South Dakota), 9-11 Canyonlands (Utah), 19, 20 Custer (South Dakota), 12 Glacier (Montana), 47, 49, 51-52 Grand Teton (Wyoming), 37-39 Mesa Verde (Colorado), 21

Ann,

122, 125, 133, 135, 136, 137,

140, 141

Prance, Dr. Ian, 115, 116, 117, 120, 121 Praslin Island (Seychelles), 231

Prentice, Stewart, 93

Preveaux, Nicole, 125 Price, Vincent,

268

Provenzano, Father Frank, 147 Provo (Utah), 30

Puebla Pueblo Puerto Puerto

(Mexico), 88-90 (Colorado), 25

Hambre (Chile), 152 Limon (Costa Rica), 187-88

Puerto Montt (Chile),

ix,

Puerto Natales (Chile),

150, 157

152, 154 Puerto Williams (Chile), 278 Puma Arenas (Chile), 151-53, 309 Purcell, Phil

ix,

and Noreen, 36, 37

Purgatory (Colorado), 21-24

Queen

Park City (Utah), 33, 35-36 Parks, National

302-3

97

Poponoe, Wilson, 98 Portland (Oregon), 57-58, 68-69

O'Meara, Pete, 14 O'Murchu, Liam, 231, 242 O'Neil, Father Emmett, 51 O'Neill, Joe and Jan, 22 Oregon, 57-58, 68-71 O'Rourke, Pat, 66, 67 Osaka (Japan), 257 Oshom, Charlie, 42 Ouray (Colorado), 23, 24 Pacific

109-10

Place, Micheline, 133, 277, 297

Oceania, 198

Olinda

China

Elizabeth 2

(QE

2) (ship), ix-x, xv,

171-77, 181-309

Quito (Ecuador), 105-6 Raffles, Sir

Stamford, 241

Rafting, 38, 42

Rahner, Karl, 220 Rainforests, 120, 121, 132, 270

Ramsour, Bart and Shirley, 225 Rarotonga (Cook Islands), 198, 201-3

Sitka (Alaska), 61

Recife (Brazil), 138

Yellowstone (Wyoming), 38, 39, 44 Zion (Utah), 32

Reeder, Fred, 61 Refugees, 96, 245, 248

318

INDEX Religion

Salvador (Brazil), 140

African, 123, 140, 229

Sampson, Monsignor Frank, 8, 9 San Jose (Costa Rica), 103, 187-88 San Salvador (El Salvador), 100-2 Santarem (Brazil), 129

Amazonian, 123 charismatic, 140 evangelical, 123

Indian, 234, 236

Latin American, 91

Santiago (Chile), 83, 147-51, 157-59, 27678

Mormon,

Sao Paulo

30, 33, 76

native, 123

Protestant, 202 in Seychelles,

146

(Brazil),

Sarasin, Pao, 243,

244

Sato, Kimura, 259

231

Scarlet, Pete,

Thai, 244

36

Schafer, Rick, 67

Richfield (Utah), 29-30, 33

Scully, Father

Ricoy, Martin, 85

Seaborne

Rio dejaniero

(Brazil),

143-46

Seattle (Washington), 57

Rivers

Seckinger,

Amazon,

ix,

83,

Tim, 148 xv

Spirit (ship),

114-41

Bill,

67

Secoy, Ernie, 225, 228, 230, 234, 245, 250,

Arkansas, 25, 26

254, 257, 260, 262, 264

240

Big Sioux, 8

Selangor, Sultan

Colorado, 18, 19, 74

Sepiilveda, Fernando, 88, 92

Columbia, 43, 58 Green, 19, 29

Serrano, Father Felix, 94

Grey, 153

Serrano Segovia,

Margaret, 222

Seward, William Henry, 60

Mississippi, 4,

of,

Serata (island), 242

Julio,

85

Sexton, Ann, 14, 17

43

231-32

Missouri, 5, 6, 8, 9, 43

Seychelles,

Pehoe, 153

Shanghai (China), 250 Sheets, Millard and Mary, 70, 71, 72 Sherrer, Father Dave, 57, 69 Shields, Mary, 66 Shilling, Andy, 258

Snake, 37, 39, 43 Swan, 221 Tapajos, 129 Virgin, 32 Yellowstone, 43, 45 Robinson, Bishop Harold, 181-82, 244 Rodriguez, Alejandro, 85

Silverton (Colorado), 23

Roginski, Donna, 97

Singapore, 241-42

Rookeries, 283, 284, 287-88, 293, 300, 303,

Sioux

307

Simon, Father Bob, 147 Simpson, Alan and Ann, 42 Falls

(South Dakota), 7-9

Sitka (Alaska),

ix,

61-62

Roth, Pat, 28, 72, 152, 186, 217 Rotter, Frank and Hannah, 75 Rowlett, Richard, 280, 294

Slavery, 122, 139, 140, 175, 184, 185,

Rubber trade, 127, 132, 241-42 Ruben, Rabbi Alvin, 181-82, 256 Rungius, Carl, 40 Rushmore, Mount (South Dakota), Russell, Charles, 40

Smith, C.R., 192

204-5 Sloane, Father Jack, 207 Society Explorer (ship), ix, xv,

11

Rutherford, Father Dick, 57

Saba (Netherlands Antilles), 174 St. Croix (U.S. Virgin Islands), 184 St. Elias, Mount (Alaska), 62 St. Eustatius St.

Helens,

114-41, 277

Society Islands, 198

(Netherlands Antilles), 174

Mount (Washington), 58

Sorin, Father Edward, 97

South China Sea, 241, 245 South Dakota, 7-13 South Georgia Island (Falkland Islands Dependencies), 296, 302 South Island (New Zealand), 206, 209, 210 South Pole (Antarctica), 275 South Shetland Islands, 281 Spice Islands. See Seychelles

John (U.S. Virgin Islands), 184 St. Martin (Netherlands Antilles), 174 St. Thomas (U.S. Virgin Islands), 172-73, 183-86, 271 Sakharov, Andrei, 293, 310 Salhuana, Jorge Gomez, 114 Salt Lake City (Utah), 30, 76

Sprang, John, 98 Stanley (Falkland Islands), 300, 301

Salvador, El. See El Salvador

Sugarloaf Mountain. See Pao de Agiicar

St.

Stone, Edward Durrell, 87 Strait of Magellan, 83, 151, 152, 277, 303 Strait of Malacca, 241

Stroessner, General Alfredo (Paraguayan President), 159

319

1

INDEX University of Central America (San

Sullivan, Father Bud, 5

Sumatra, 239

Sun

Salvador, El Salvador), 100

247 Sweet, Larry, 67 Sydney (Australia), 212-14

University of Melbourne (Melbourne,

Tabatinga (Brazil), 116-17

University of Western Australia (Perth,

Yat'sen,

Australia),

216

University of Sydney (Sydney, Australia),

212 199

Tahiti, 194, 197,

Taj

Mahal (Agra,

Talc,

Australia), 221

India),

Xiamen

234

Sanjeev, 229

Tannock, Peter, 221 Tasmania, 198 Taxco (Mexico), 90 Taylor, Clyde, 159 Tegis, Jack, 67 Tela (Honduras),

Bill,

216

Usher, Father Juan Oscar, 160, 161 Utah, 18-21, 29-37 Vail (Colorado), 13, 15-18,

28-30

Valdez (Alaska), 62

98-100

Teran Dutari, Father

University (Xiamen Island), 249

Uren, Father

Julio,

van Eeghen, Ernst, 176, 177 Van Ness, Al, 233 Vasquez Caceres, Jose, 114 Venezuela, 268-70

106

Thailand, 243-44

Thompson, Father Andy, 126 Thompson, Sir Charles, 137 Tianjin (China), 251-53

Tienanmen Square (Beijing, China), 254 Tieman, Rob and Carol, 49, 50 Tokyo (Japan), 259

Veracrux (Mexico), 87 Vespucci, Amerigo, 137 Victoria, Mount (New Zealand)

,

207

Victoria (Seychelles), 231

Volcanoes, 70, 87, 92, 93, 103, 107, 137,

Tola, Pepe, 108

151, 199, 200, 202, 263, 270, 281, 282,

Tonga

283

Islands,

203

Trinidad Reyes, Jose, 97

Waldman, Bemie, 67

Tsavo Park (Kenya), 228 Turner, John and

Mary Kay, 38, 40, 41

Wallace, David, 259

Turrubiate, Gerardo, 85

Walsh, Dan, 67

Universities

Walsh, John and Barbara, 25 Walsh, Leo and Beverly, 62 Warner, Dick, 150

Andres Bello (Caracas, Venezuela), 269 Catholic University (Asuncion, Paraguay),

160 Catholic University

(Brasilia, Brazil),

143

Catholic University (Lima, Peru), 108 Catholic University (Rio de Janiero, Brazil),

143

Francisco Marroquin University (Guate-

mala City, Guatemala), 94, 95 Hubei University (China), 252 Iberoamericana University (Mexico City, Mexico), 86 Jos^ Matias Delgado (San Salvador, El Salvador), 100 National Autonomous University (Tegucigalpa, Honduras),

97

Washington, 56-57, 60 Weigand, Nestor, 26 Weinecke, Carl, 285 Wellington (New Zealand), 206, 209-10 West Falkland Island (Falkland Islands), 303, 306 White, Peter, 246 Wildlife, 43, 45, 62, 116, 120, 135, 136,

137, 141, 151-52, 154, 156, 191, 279,

281, 283, 284, 287-88, 291, 293, 294, 300, 303, 306, 308 Willemstad (Curasao), 175 Wilson, John, xiv Woods, Bishop Robin, 302

Wyoming, 12-13, 37-47

San Carlos de Guatemala (Guatemala City, Guatemala), 92

Santa Maria de Buenos Aires (Buenos Aires, Argentina), 166 United Nations Peace University (Costa Rica), 109 Universidad Centro (Caracas, Venezuela), 269

University of Brasilia (Brasilia, Brazil), 143

Island, 249-50 Xingang (China), 251, 253, 255

Xiamen

Yellow Sea, 251,256

Yokohama

(Japan),

258-60

Yonto, Joe, 272

Zander, Captain Ralf, 308

320

{continuedfrom front fU^)

the Foreword, Father Ted says that this book

about

just It's

a

travel, as

book about

lifelong

way of

totally

retirement.

And

yes,

last,

priest of the

changing one's ordinary,

coming

apart at

about enjoying, not dreading,

It's

A

isn't

fun as travel can be.

living without

the seams.

ping, at long

much

it's

about stopping

— stop-

to smell the roses.

Congregation of the Holy Cross,

Theodore M. Hesburgh was appointed Pre'sident Emeritus of the University of Notre Dame in 1987. He has received over 120 honorary degrees from a host of international colleges and

more than any other living person. He remains active on numerous boards, trusts,

universities,

and foundations, concentrating world peace,

human

his energies

on

rights, international devel-

opment, ecumenism, and the environment. Puntc Ara.»ot

:souTH p/^c/r/c O C £^ N

JACKET PHOTOGRAPH BY O. J. STEWART PHOTOGRAPH HAND-TINTED BY CHRISTINE RODIN JACKET DESIGN BY DOROTHY WACHTENHEIM 1192

,*r^

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