Three Years in Constantinople; or, Domestic Manners of the Turks in 1844 [2]

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THREE YEARS IN

CONSTANTINOPLE; OR,

DOMESTIC MANNERS OF

THE TURKS IN BY CHARLES WHITE.

1844. ESQ.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL.

II.

LONDON: HENRY COLBURX, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROIGH STREET.

1845.

CONTEXTS.

vi

—

—

—

—

Paper whence imported Jew dealers Copyists Bookbinders Inks Stationers' shops Celebrated penknife maker lers and Stationers

— — — — Private educatior Public instruction Colleges Primary schools — Establishment of Newspapers Moniteur Ottoman and other journal: —

.......

Maronite Patriarch and bibles

CHAPTER

1

VI.

—

Djevahir Bezestany (Jewel, or Arms' Bezestan) Administration Miserable e Bezestan Hamals (porters) and Jew commissioners

— Bezestan — Articles

—

Hebrews — Gloomy

» appearance of and Persian sabres Khorassan sabres—jjArt ot Pala (i Diamond-hilted swords graving in relief and with gold Turkish sword exercise introduced in European cavalrj mitars) dition of

there

— Damascus

—

—

(

—

—

Sultan's sword-belt

—

— Grand

of side-arms

— Turkish Seraglio

did side-arms in luting

— Manufactory

review of 1841

in

— Collection officers

(mounted)

Sultan's presence

of

spli

mode

of

— Sultan's

sa

— Yataghan — Kama — accredited of the of that name— Perote Prince origin Hanjiari — — and carbines Small arm manufaot Frank Dragoman Pistols, at Dolma Baghtshy — Battle-axes and maces — Sandal Bezestan; Zul-failar

— the

double-bladed sword of Ali

t

i

rifles,

— Eagerness

(silk)

—

and their deceptions Rent of shops taxe Silk Bezestan a place of deposit for valuables

Turkish tolerance Falling off in

of dealers

silks,

indigenous

through

']

—

—

competition of Europ(

— goods Lyons' brocades supersede those of Broussa — Turbans not w^ — — by Turkish ladies Silk articles where manufactured Spun silk — Dyi — — Bezestan — Factories — Nt shops Bin-bir-direk cistern Silks sold in

ber of looms, workmen, and where situated

CHAPTER

.

.

.

.

:

VII.

—

Fur market Black fox, sables, etiquette regarding these and pel Kurk (pelisses) Their use in Harems and Imperial pala in general

—

— Price of

—

furs — Privilege of

and physicians skins

— Omiad

wearing sable caps granted to Dragom of Furriers' Guild Leopard and b

— Administration

Kaliphs protected

brown bears

— — Abassides

patroni

black— Yessir Bazary (slave market), first destined for captives taker war Internal distribution Filth Chambers of black and white sla

— — Criers

sell

second-hand Mortality

— — — by auction Chains when employed — Newly imported slaves — Libertinism — Favourite marts for black slave

i

— Profits

Abyssinians

and prices

— Importations

— Custom-house preferred

trusted to brokers— Administration of slaves, education,

via Tripoli

and Egyp

tax — Second-hand slaves Bazar — Newly imported wl

and prices— Visit to a Turkish dealer— Parents

CONTENTS. latives

conduct Circassian

adinn (Sultan's partners) )ung Blacks Rank and

—

—

Vll

—

the Bosphorus Explanation of Education of Probation of slaves allowed girls to

titles

—

of Turkish

women — Precedence and

— Half castes — — Respect of Turks for their nurses Beauty of children — rely seen nwholesome food and scrofula — Polygamy — Predisposing causes of mor— imperial harems Wages not among children — Loss of infant — — Mezda (presents) to bearers of good tidings Trick played to slaves son the Hekini Bashy — Leniency of slavery — No bar to female marriage -Sometimes conducts men to the highest honours — Hereditary distincons unknown — Dery Beys abolished — Shereef of ^lecca — Navarino— ircassians devote their own offspring to bondage — Mehemet Ali, Vizir !Signation of female slaves

— Head

toilet

of both sexes

life in

lity

lid

Egypt, the great slave-hunter and promoter of slavery

CHAPTER

.

.

266

V^IIL

— Infractions exemplified — Persons subject to of proprietors — Restrictions — Masters pay blood-price case of murder — Slaves well clothed — Fathers often prefer slaves as ives for their sons — Objections to these marriages — Character of Georan and Circassian women — Female slaves from imperial harems given — marriage to favoured persons Masters enjoy absolute power over — — property of slaves Slaves can give evidence against masters Exemin a murder — Courts of Appeal — Judicial sentences -Trial murder of Djailan Agha— Masters answerable for acts of aves — The latter not responsible for crimes perpetrated by master's )mmands — Trial of Nafiz Bey for murder— Runaway slaves — BloodLaws

relating to slavery

— Powers avery

le

ification

trial for

for

—

oney for maiming or slaying other men's slaves Aversion of Turks to nploy free Christian v/omen Profligacy of the lower classes at Peras

—

—

—

Dimitri, &c. Treaty between Prophet and Nestorian Patriarch nfranchisement of slaves at the end of seven years Squadron of t.

—

—

—Accomplishments of white slaves — their marriages— ormula of manumission — Degrees and classes of emancipation — Mothers milder than Christian colochildren — Slavery in Turkey and the United States— Kizlar Aghassy and other slaves of this — Importation forbidden — Law evaded — Rank and position of eunuchs — His substi— Imperial palace Officer of Kizlar Aghassy in abeyance — Twenty-four grand composing Sultan's household — Prinof class Pachas — Enuestablishments pal personages comprising lack Lancers

in

infinitely

es,

ass

ite

officers

eration of public departments, . ;cording to precedence

first

and .

list .

of high public functionaries, .

.

.

-

.314

DOMESTIC MANNERS OK

m

THE TURKS,

souTERAZEssy (water column or level.)

CHAPTER

I.

CONFECTIONERS, WATER-CARRIERS, AQUEDUCTS. Contiguous to the greengrocer's stall, mentioned in the first volume, is the shop of a celebrated halvajee or vender of a dry, called glutinous

VOL.

A-

II.

halva

substance,

B

2

CONFECTIONERS.

(literally,

sweet)

;

of which the principal ingredient

is

This the unctuous flour of sesame grain and honey.* is a favourite Halvajees, both dainty with all classes. stationary and ambulatory, best halva

is

abound

in all quarters.

The

flavoured with white grape-must, rose-

water, lemon, or white mulberry juice.

There

is

like-

wise a strongly adhesive variety, similar to the nougat of Marseilles. In this, sweet almonds, walnuts, filberts, or pistaccio nuts are introduced.

by the drachm at the rate of eight piastres per oka,t and vast quantities are exported into the provinces. Few Turks travel without an ample pro-

Halva

sold

is

Two

vision.

or three ounces of halva, a

little

bread,

and a glass of water, compose a nutritive autumnal or winter luncheon. It is not much eaten in summer, being then considered inflammatory. Halvajees likewise

sell

fresh ripened Missur

Boghda

boiled or roasted

entire.

(Indian or Egyptian corn,)

When

parboiled in vinegar and water,

lanmash

;

when

roasted, kabab.

hand, and a head of

it is

With a

this corn in the other,

called hash-

rosary in one seated upon

some spot commanding one of the admirable prospects that abound in the vicinity of the city, Turks of the middling classes will find wherewithal to divert themse ves

during several hours, occasionally exciting their

magination by applying to their pipes. •

Sesamum

confounded with the sesamum indi" Every body remembers the Open, Seof the Forty Thieves, which was nothing but this favourite orientale, not to be

cum, cultivated !?ame I"

in

America.

grain. t

Forty-four ounces are equal to one oka, of four hundred drachms.

CONFECTIONERS.

3

Halvajee belong to the corporation of pastrycooks, who are under the superintendence of the halvajee bashy of the Seraglio, and of the city shekerjee bashy (confec-

The

tioner in chief.)

and running traders

;

latter grants permits to shops

and ascertains whether applicants

have gone through the requisite education. The former selects from this body such distinguished workmen as

may be worthy " abode of

of catering for the fair inmates of the

felicity."

When

halvajees commit frauds, or introduce deleterious substances into their goods, they are summarily

punished.

and

One

this after a

The Stambol

of these

men

recently

somewhat novel Eff'endessy,

into a scrape,

fashion.

(mayor or

the city,) a great admirer of

fell

badem

first

magistrate of

halvassy (almond

cake,) being desirous one day to procure a morsel where-

with to enliven the tedium of the judgment hall, reined in his fat grey palfrey, on the road from his own konak (mansion) to the court, and ordered an attendant to purchase fifty drachms of this favourite dainty. From the necessity of employing his

mouth

in

expounding

the law, the venerable effendy did not taste his pur-

chase until a few minutes before he was called upon to

pronounce judgment in a complicated case. This was more difficult, however, than the judge antiIn vain he cleared his voice, and attempted to cipated. open

his

mouth.

The adhesive halva had united

the

upper and lower teeth as fast as if they had been This was extremely percemented with khorassan. plexing

;

for the halva

was obdurate, and the B

2

effendy's

CONFECTIONERS.

4

At length, by grasping

teeth were loose.

his

beard in his

right hand, and tossing back his head, the judge sucBut the receeded in liberating his imprisoned jaws. sult

was

this

novel

fatal to

himself and to the manufacturer of

The

denti-tug.

teeth

dilapidated

of the

upper jaw had entered into an indissoluble bond of union with those below. In a word, the venerable mollah hatl not a tooth left in the upper alveoli tiioy were firmly :

embedded

To

in the subjacent glutinous mixture.

clear the court, to

mumble a dozen

oaths, most

uncomplimentary to the halvajee's mother, and to order the culprit to be dragged before him, with in his shop, were the affair of a moment.

the goods This order

all

was no sooner complied with, and the halvajee brougiit into the presence of the irritated magistrate, than the

beckoned him forward, and exclaimed, as loud as " his Oh, you law-breaker suffering would permit, latter

!

How

dare you exercise other men's callings without a licence.'' Where is your dentist's permit?" " Allah !

Allah

!

grave of

am Omar

T

a dealer in sweets

Halvajy,

I

liar !"

think the Sultan's

By

the soul and

exercise no other calling,"

replied the trembling shopman.

most unblushing

!

" You are a

exclaimed the mollah

:

liar

"do you

subjects are to devour dirt,

you may fatten ? You exceeding impostor worse than a Moscovite unbeliever.* Look your badem halvassy, and there are

my

that

You

!

—a

!

teeth.

are

there

is

What

does the pezevenk say to that ?" •

One of the worst terms of reproach that a Turk, especially of the lower order, can heap upon another, is to tell him that he is " worse than a Mosooffgiaour."

CONFECTIONERS. «

By

the EfFenJy's head and beard," rephed the other,

" the halva can I

else

What worthy of paradise. VVai Wai " What blasphemy and perjury is say ?" is

!

!

this?" retorted the mayor, wincing with pain.

"Oh,

It is only fit for devils or Persians. you bad man How long have you employed glue instead of honey ? Allah alone knows how many honest men's jaws have !

been mutilated through your infamy." Tlien, directing the culprit's

mouth

to be opened,

and

finding that his teeth also were not over-soundiy esta" Now blished in their sockets, the mollah continued,

you purveyor of lies and your mixture can effect.

filth

— now

—

we

Chew some

will see

of that almond

Then, as the trembling offender " Bite in Allah's name Bite

devilry, I say, firmly."

he added, bite as harder, harder obeyed,

—

and your drug

what

soft

!

—

1

your teeth were grindstones There was no resisting paste." if

these orders, especially as one of the attendant cavass

kindly aided the process of mastication, by applying his hand to the halvajee's chin.

In a short time, therefore, the worthy mayor of Stambol

had the consolation

the

same dilemma

imbedded

to see the halvajee reduced to

as himself;

two loose teeth remained which had

in the composition,

in fact

mixed with some strong glutinous substance.

been

Seein^

the mollah smiled with grim satisfaction. Then, having gazed a while at his fellow- victim, he exclaimed, this,

There, you unblushing rogue You poacher upon other There are the proofs We will teach you men's trades to act dentist without a licence." Then, turning to the

*'

!

!

!

CONFECTIONERS.

6

" Let him eat

cavasses, he added,

on the cast

soles of his feet,

and

stick

let all

— one

liundred

the Satan's

filth

be

away."

A

celebrated branch of the halva trade

is

that of

tlie

manufacturers of niqohalybee, a species of blancmanger, composed of rice-flour, boiled to the consistence of a strong jelly, flavoured with rose-water, extract of sweet almonds, or kernels of cherries, and sweetened, if required, with honey or treacle. is

sold in

moulds or

slices,

This favourite condiment

by stationary or ambulatory

moohalybyjees. They traverse the streets, or station themselves under large umbrellas in the great thoroughfares, attracting purchasers with cries of" Moohalybyjee !

moohalybyjee

unka

My

!*

!

byjee

soul

my

!

made moohalybee." luted and is

warm.

jee

!

!

Elenka

heart

!

!

Catinka

come, buy

Tliis comjiosition It

is

is

my

!

Mari-

heaven-

also sold di-

then called syjak paluda, and

eaten for breakfast.

The Turks, who

are

much given

to

compliment each

other's personal appearance, are not adverse to flatter

strangers, return.

when

the talismanic baksish

is

likely to be the

Sometimes they employ moohalybee and halva

as vehicles of gratulatory comparison.

A

gallant captain of the Royal Navy, whose corvette rode at anchor at Tophana, was one day surprised at

being the object of a similar comparison. Having gone to the hanmiam, our captain laid aside his vestments, and,

exchange, attired himself in the coloured cloths supScarcely had he explied at the bath for the purpose. in

*

Diminutives of the Greek names Helen, Catherine, Mary.

;

CONFECTIONERS.

7

hibited himself in his two -thirds uncovered state,

the dellak (bath attendant), whose business

it is

when

to scrub

and kneed bathers, started back, threw up both hands, " It is What whiteness and exclaimed, Mashallah Ya sofy (oh, most Who ever saw its equal !

!

dazzling

!

!

must be emblematic of the inside. Oh, pure one.* The out What are ye when compared halva oh, moohalybee Bash oostan upon my head it is so." Dirt. to this ? !

!

—

—

Higher up

in

Aladsha

Hammam Street are the shops

several shekerjee (confectioners),

whose trade

of

among The city. is

the most conspicuous and profitable in the different sweetmeats are symmetrically arranged, in vases, flat baskets, ornamented with gilt paper, and packets, or covered with coloured gauze, fastened with ribbons.

and white candy, and small glass cups, with candied cherry, mulberry and plum pulp, for

Sticks of red filled

sherbets, are suspended from the ceiling, interspersed

with coloured paper and tinsel ornaments. All practical Here are ovens business is performed in a back shop. for

baking, and stoves for preparing various preserves

;

copper pans for mixing the pulp, and large, flat copper heaters, on which the fluid is poured, candied, dried, and

The then cut up in diamond-shaped cakes for use. for candied fruits is at Galata, principal manufactory introduced by the Genoese, is carried on extensively by Italian and Swiss settlers.

where the

art, first

still

by confectioners are limited to those of and sugar constitute the main ingredient.

Articles sold

which

The

fruit

trade

is

distinct *

An

from that of the beurekjee, who

attribute of the Prophet.

8

CONFECTIONERS. baked

sell

form the

articles,

of which

The consumption

basis.

meats and cakes

is

and

butter, honey,

oil,

No

immense.

of

all

flour,

kinds of sweet-

excursion by land or

For this complete without an ample provision. " sweet tooth," Osmanlis have a fair religious pre" The love of sweets text the Prophet having said, " True believers are sweet, and springs from faith," and water

is

;

ISIany shekerjee adorn their shops witii

infidels sour."

these precepts, framed and glazed. All articles m;ide by confectioners are classed under

The most

the head of shekerlama (sugared thinix?.)

renowned of these

rakhatlacoom (giving rest to the

is

a gelatinous substance, consisting of tlu' pulp of white grapes or mulberries, semolina flour, honey, It is sold in sugar, rose-water, and kernels of apricots.

throat.)

This

is

long rolls or slices at 8 piastres the oka. A small morsel, as a preliminary to a glass of cold water, is agreeable and refreshing. But this, as well as almost all other confectionary in Turkey,

is

sweet to insipidity, and, from

the prevalent use of strong rose-water, wants variety and flavour. Fatmeh, the Prophet's daughter, has

the credit of being

its

inventor.

She

is

said to have

agreeably surprised her husband, Ali, with a portion, at their first

A trade

honeymoon

principal is tliat

Greeks.

branch of the beurekjee

of the

They

breakfast.

sell

poghadshajee, who

this suet is called

nothing but beef or mutton fat. salted

is little

(pastrycooks) all

Turks or

an unctuous cake, composed of

and suet,* called poghadsha. Though

are

Of

flour

this there are several

butter by the natives, Fresh butter is almost

used save by Perotes and Franks.

it

is,

in

fact,

unknown, and

CONFECTIONERS. viz.

kinds,

pinerly

(plain), that

is,

(cheese),

called koorou (hollow)

a

when

it is

and saady

(meat),

etly

without stuffing.

9

There dry.

also a fourth

is

The Greeks make

kind for their fast days with oil, either plain or stuffed with onions. For festivals they also bake an exfifth

cellent cake or flat bun,

butter,

called tchorek.

beurek.

Thence the

made

of flour, eggs, sugar, and

The poghadshajee also make name of the trade in general.

Itinerant beurekjee constantly traverse the streets, call-

ing out, all

hot,

" 'Sidjak

buy

my

!

'sidjak

beurek

fresh cake.)

!

taza beurek

The same

artists

facture semit, a composition of sesame flour

!

(hot,

manu-

and water

without butter, excepting during Ramazan, when it is mixed with suet, and sells at double price. These light cakes are made in rings, a foot in diameter, and retailed

by itinerant semitjee, who also sell biscuits called gevrek, composed of wheat flour and the water in which dried peas have been boiled,

A

distinct

koorabyajee,

branch of the above trades

who

sell

sweet puffs,

made

is

that of the

of fine wheat

and sugar. They likewise manufacture ravany and lokum, soft cakes, made of semolina, eggs, sugar, butter, and milk.

flour,

butter,

Though not

directly connected with pastrycooks or

confectioners, the dealers of leblebee (parched peas)

here be mentioned. in old iron.

rate

of

The

or old nails,

itinerant leblebyjees deal also

for

and drive a

their

parched peas, at the four hundred of rusty iron

They exchange

100 drachms

may

profitable trade with the ser-

vants of Pera.

b5

CONFECTIONERS.

10

Stambol, Galata, and Pera, abound bers of the above trades,

who

in itinorant

mem-

follow each other in quick

succession, roaring out their goods.

One

of the greatest

annoyances, from dayligiit until nearly mid-day, is the noise made by the walking salesmen, of some fifty different commodities.

and inharmonious

;

are

Tlieir cries

equally loud

all

but none worse than the harsh roar

of the dealers in sheep's brains and tongues. Another and most profitable article of the pastrycooks' trade must not be omitted, namely kataif (cut velvet.) It is of two kinds, the manufacture of which, carried on in

open shops, invariably attracts the attention of strangers.

One

variety consists of a rich

pancake, composed of

semolina flour,* eggs, milk, butter, and sugar, in the middle of which vermicelli, maccaroni, or clotted cream

(kaimak) classes.

most

is

introduced.

That

It

is

a favourite dish with

called seraiee kataify (palace velvet)

fasiiionable.

Indeed,

many

all is

officers of the Sultana's

household pride themselves upon making this dish. In the palaces of Tcheraghan and Beshiktash the chamber-

and superior black aghas, have a kitchen fitted up with marble, and provided with stoves and " utensils, where they beguile the tedium of waiting"

lains, equerries,

by making these pancakes.

To produce a

worthy of being tasted by the Sultan,

them

seraiee kataif,

is

regarded by

as a great honour.

*

Semolina with pure water is exclusively employed for manufacturing maccaroni, vermicelli, and different articles, under the head ot Italian paste. It is merely fine wheat ground and passed through exceedingly 6ne sieves.

to an impalpable

powder,

CONFECTIONERS.

11

The second and more common kind

is

somewhat

like

Neapolitan maccaroni. The paste, made fluid with rose-water, is placed in a small receiver, perforated at fine

the bottom like the spout of a watering-pot. is

plement

waved

to

and

fro over

This im-

a large circular copper-

the mixture, passing through the holes in long filaments, soon dries, and is taken off ready for sale in bunches or strings, and sold plate,

moderately heated upon a stove

;

by the oka.* Kataifjee are not always honest or fortunate in their

attempts to

grand

vizir,

sell

It is related that the

light weight.

Mehemet Pacha, walking one day

Izet

through the streets in disguise, stopped before one of the kataif shops, and, after watching the owner as he served different

customers,

thought

that

he detected

short

He consequently demanded half an oka, which weight. he received and paid for ; then, calling to his attendbade them draw forth the

ants, he

carried

by them

measure.

grand

for the

scales

and weights

purpose of discovering short

the kataif purchased by the was proved that several drachms were

Upon weighing

vizir,

it

Thereupon, Izet Mehemet ordered the dealer to produce his own weights, which turned out to be wanting.

false.

priate. *

The punishment was summary, and not inapproHalf a dozen sturdy

kavass-j- seized the pur-

An oka

consists of 400 drachms, equal to 44 ounces avoirdupois. Kavass supply the place of the ancient Janissaries at the police stations and foreign legations. The word literally means " an archer." t

The the

derivation is contested but Mr. Redhouse, the learned compiler of new Turkish, Arabic, and Persian dictionary, recently printed at Con-

stantinople, informed

;

me

that he considered kavass to be the reduplicative

participle of kavassa, to shoot with a bow.

CONFECTIONERS.

12

and protestations, was veyor, who, in spite of shouts his own copper-plate, and there lifted and seated

upon minutes some subjected during

to tlie process of being

converted into kataif. a distinct portion of a Confectionary does not form Turkish dinner; it is generally eaten at luncheon, or at

Sweetmeats, such as intervening periods of the day. or cherries, are usually offered preserved strawberries with

water when

fresh

Armenians. (|uantities

At

visiters

arrive,

circumcision feasts and

especially

of confectionary are consumed

;

trays

variety are

baskets filled with every possible

by

weddings vast

and

handed

round to guests.

Adam

has the credit of having invented confectionary; but the patron of all trades connected with sweet condiments is Omer Halvajy, a cotemporary and kinsman of He it was who had the honour of making the Prophet.

and rakhatlacoom

for

Ayesha, harem. Zeinab, and the rest of Mohammed's numerous the use But the although a great advocate for kataif,

halva,

Kadyja,

Prophet,

of shekerlema by others, seems to have had more subto tradition, his favourite dish stantial tastes.

According was a haggis of sheep's head stewed

in garlic, or

a plate

latter was deyoung camel's tripe and onions. The " Lord of all dainties." clared by him to be the

of

While adverting to the Prophet's predilection for these two bulbs, it may be mentioned that we are originally indebted to Satan for their production. According to vulo-ar belief, when the king of darkness first touched earth, after his expulsion from paradise,

sprung up beneath

his right foot,

pungent garlic and honest onions under

CONFECTIONERS. the less

From

left.

18

this cause, perhaps, garlic is held not

sacred by the Persian yezidy, or devil-worshippers,

than was the Nile lotus by the ancient Egyptians. On the other hand, it is not uncommon to see a nut of garlic fastened to the hair of children in

an example of Juvenal's sanctas gentes

!

as a preserva-

In these superstitions, we have

tive against the evil eye.

O

Turkey

—

quibas haBC nascuntur

in hortis

Numina.

The Kurds

also pay great respect to onions. They " Your Excellency," and look on them as " the call them One day, a Kurdish chief came to pearl of vegetables." " Great as and

Stambol, saw the Sultan,

his

—

only envy him on one account." that be, in Allah's name?" asked one of

be the Padishah,

" What may

may

exclaimed,

countrymen.

I

''What!" ejaculated

the

"can can we

first,

—

he not every day dine on the core of onions ? Kurds do that?" The mountaineers of Albania are not less

devoted to leeks than our

They

treat

venerate

is

it

own Welch countrymen.

vegetable with becoming respect, as emblematic of health and fecundity. this

and

Neither confectioners nor pastrycooks sell ices. This a distinct branch of trade, learned from Italians settled

at Galata

and Pera.

manufactured for cooling

ice

There

is,

nevertheless, no lack of

(dondoormak), or of kar (frozen snow),

water and sherbets.

The

latter is

brought

during summer from the Bythinian Olympus in large The blocks, or it is stored during winter in ice-houses. ice or

snow-men form a company under the superintend-

ence of the karsajee bashy.

It is their business to collect

ICE-VENDERS.

14

snow from the neighbouring hills and valleys during winter, and to provide supplies from Broussa, which is, A projected ball however, insufficient for the demand.

was recently quantity of frozen snow

at the hospitable palace of the Internuncio

postponed, because a sufficient for ices and champagne could not be procured in time

from Olympus. Ice-wells are constructed in various parts of the city

and suburbs.

The common

people are thus enabled to

enjoy the luxury of a cool draught of lemonade or fruit where such beverages are sold, sherbet for a few paras a small block of ice is always affixed to an iron prung ; this :

the dealer takes off and places in a tin colander, thrDUgh which he repeatedly pours and thus cools the liquid.

Manufactured

ices are sold in

many shops

at Galata

and

During summer evenings, the walk, crowning the small burying-ground, from the well-appointed hotel of Pera.

Madame dence, those

is

Giuseppini* to the Hellenic minister's resicrowded with idlers of all nations, save perhaps

whom

—

foreigners would naturally expect to meet

the Turks,

Loungers seat themselves at tables placed in the road, and, defying dust and disagreeable emanations arising from the contiguous cemetery, smoke, drink punch, and eat "gellati," furnih^hed by the adjoining Greek coffee-houses. This is the principal solace of those

who

are detained during

summer

within the scorching and dusty precincts of unwholesome Pera. *

The

best hotel, in point of table and comfort, is that " d'Angleterre." most agreeable as regards apartments and prospect is the Belle vue.

The

That of Giuseppini

is

recommendable

in

many

respects.

ICE-VENDERS.

15

It is impossible not to be struck with the absence of

every thing oriental upon these occasions. exception of a few old Armenian schismatics,

VV^ith

the

who adhere

monstrous black kalpak, and some scores of Catholic Armenians and Greeks in fez, the crowd is com-

to the

posed of Franks or of Perotes of both sexes,

all attired in

exaggerated European costumes, making dress hideous.

Were

not for the noble cypresses that wave over the wilderness of broken and scattered tombs beneath, for the it

Golden Horn and the white buildings of the Arsenal silvered by the bright moonbeams, and for the more distant

domes and minarets of the the starry back-ground

bold relief upon not for these, and the

city, rising in

— were

numerous paper lanterns that

it

flit

backward and forward

in default of stationary street-lamps,

a stranger might

suppose himself in some retrograde Frank town suddenly peopled by the denizens of Babel ; for, though his eye

can scarcely discover a trace of the graceful East, his ears are assailed with the most confused mixture of lanFrench, Italian, Armenian, English, German, Sclavonian, Romaic, Turkish, Spanish, and half a dozen

guages.

other tongues or dialects, more or less mutilated, are chattered around.

Ambulatory

ice-venders

(dondoormajee) frequent of such as the two Sweet Waters, and kief,* public places •

"

Kief has eo equivalent in the English idiom. Its Arabic root is how," and its primitive signification, health or spirits. It is applied

by the Turks upon all occasions connected with ease or enjoyment. " Is " I shall They say, your kief good ?" meaning your health. go to this or that place to make kief," to amuse themselves. In meaning short, the

word

is

employed

for fifty different purposes.

WATER-CARRIERS.

IG

Armenian burying-grounds of Pera and Balykly. TIkmimerchandize is contained in leaden pails immersed in snow, and placed within wooden buckets.

Here and

dondooimajee carry their ices in wooden celarets, the backs of Mytelene gaily painted, and slung upon In the centre is a tray and ponies, neatly harnessed. there,

tripod stand, with the necessary cups and spoons. Their followed by soujee (water-sellers), steps are generally

carry fresh water in jars, and announce their presence with loud cries of Saook souy (cool water), or of

who

Booz gibby, booz gibby, (like ice). The bazars and neighbouring

streets

abound with

water-venders, and every portion of the city and suburbs has its apjiointed squad of water-carriers.

itinerant

The

former, called soujee, have just been mentioned

;

the latter, called saka, are of two kinds, foot and horse.

The one wear

leather cuirasses,

and carry

stiff

These they

bags (koorba) slung over their shoulders. fill

at the nearest fountains,

houses. stiff

The

and carry

leathern

to

appointed

horse watermen lead good horses, bearing

and large water-bags These men perform the same

leather housings,

pack-saddles.

affixed to service as

those on foot.

There are

exist, also, gratis

employed,

made wakoof,

in

to

virtue

water-carriers.

of

some

These men

charitable

legacy

distribute water to the poor.

They

traverse the crowded thoroughfares with a leather water-

bag slung over

their shoulders,

and a brass cup

in their

They present water to all who may ask for a draught. Amono; these are two or three dervishes. hands.

17

WATER-CARRIERS. One

of them, a Mevlevy,

Our

city.

is

vignette, at the

chapter of vol.

i.,

known throughout the commencement of the sixth well

sketch of this worthy presents a slight

individual.

The saka form and are

all,

The patron

a distinct and extensive corporation,

with few exceptions, Armenians and Turks. of Turkish foot water-carriers is a certain

Suleiman Kufaly, a native of Kufa, as his name indicates. He had the honour of slaking the Prophet's ence

under the superintendTheir numbers are limited.

Water-carriers are

thirst.

of the

Sakabashy.

all

and well calregulations of their guild are severe, As they have access to the culated for public utility. interior of houses at almost all hours, strict attention is

The

the reputation of paid to their character, and they have But complaints are not unfrequently great probity. heard of their amorous propensities, and of their taking

advantage of the confidence reposed in them, to carry on intrigues for themselves or others with inferior in-

mates of harems.

The ten or Is

leathern sack (koorba), of the foot saka contains

and a half

gallons.

Its contents are sold for eight

ten paras (a halfpenny), according to distance. their perquisite, as water

fountains.

A

certain

is

supplied gratis

number of saka

This at all

are attached to

and they can only draw water in turn These men from the fountain allotted to each squad. 3ach quarter,

ire required to attend at all fires as

the

number

of registered saka

with their koorba; and,

amounts

to 5,000, there

WATER-CARRIERS.

18 is

no lack of assistance upon these oft-recurrinn; occa-

sions.

The saka

much

Their respected by the people. of public proutility places them under the safeguard To maltreat or wound a saka is felt as an intection. are

and an assault upon the health and religion of the mahal (quarter) to which he may belong. This does sult,

not always save them from persecution and death.

During the

first

Greek revolution, three Greek sakas,

great influence over the Christians of the Fanar and neighbouring quarter, were suspected of said to exercise

An order was therefore exciting the people to revolt. issued by Halet Effendy, then all-powerful in the Mabain,

The

for their decapitation.

sentence, forth-

with executed, had well-nigh produced the effects which

Halet was desirous of

avertinjj.

Amouf; the

most

men was and was also a man

clamorous of the friends of the deceased

a

Greek barber, who lived hard by, of influence in the Fanar. This being reported to Halet, as he was sitting with several other persons in the Council

Chamber, he exclaimed,

—

murmur eh Good Go!" continued he, .''

!

we

"

The

infidel

will find a

way

latherer dares to silence him.

addressing the chief tchaoosh, who *' stood near the entrance curtain, Go, and hang up this barber at his

The

own

—

door.*"

tchaoosh was about to depart with the usual " On my head be it," when one of the Effendy reply of " I present rose, and said in a whisper to Halet, beg this barber's life. He has shaved my head for ten years.

WATER-CARRIERS.

He

the cleverest

is

man

19 If he lose

of his craft.

In God's

head, I cannot trust mine to another barber.

name,

let his

Halet,

''

I

remain where

am

it

is."

"

Peky

his

!"

rejoined

an example on our beards

willing to oblige you, but

must be made, or these

infidels will spit

Hearken, tchaoosh shaving our heads. " next door to the barber lives a bashy," continued he, fruiterer ; let him be strung up among his pumpkins, of

instead

that will do as well ;"

and so the unfortunate and inno-

cent fruiterer's body was seen dangling from the projecting eave of his shop within two hours.

Ere long he was disgraced and banished to Adrianople. A few days later, an order for his death was signed by Sultan Retribution soon

fell

upon Halet EfFendy.

Mahmoud.

His head was brought back to Constantinople in salt, and publicly exposed at the Seraglio gate on the 4th of December, 1822. A yafta affixed above it

among other causes for execution, his having many innocent persons to his perversity and

announced, sacrificed

thirst for blood.

Having touched upon the

subject of watermen,

it

will

not be inappropriate to describe the mode in which the different quarters of Constantinople are supplied with this most essential element.

The whole

of the water that supplies the great tanks (taksim)* of the city and suburbs, and thence flows into public *

and private fountains and

The word taksim means,

wells, is

literally, distribution.

drawn from

It is applied to

the

tanks, as the water distributed to the different quarters issues from

them by means

of pipes.

PUBLIC RESEIiVOIRS.

20

the springs and small rivulets that rise upon the woody eminences, spurs of the Balkan, contiguous to the villages

of

Aivat Bend,

Djobedshy Kouy, and the Petinohory, Baghtshy Kouy,* height of which eminences above the sea-level varies from a maximum Pyrgos,

Belgrade,

of 750 to a

minimum

of

350

while the highest point of Constantinople or Pera does not exceed 410 feet, and is consequently U) feet below the medium altifeet,

tude of the supplying sources.

These sources are most carefully guarded. No trees or underwood are permitted to be cut within what may be called the water-district, foliage

may

in ordi-r not only that the

attract moisture, but that

springs during the great

summer

it

heats

may shade the The peasantry

are not allowed to sink wells, or to appropriate water for

from any sources that are not below the level of the channels that connect the bends (reservoirs) with irrigation

the city tanks, nor can buffaloes or other cattle bathe in

The water thus collected is guided into seven great bends, solidly dammed with masonry, and supplied with sluices. The overflowor disturb the springs or rivulets.^f

ings are conducted into subsidiary basins of masonry, called bash havooz (head basins),

which act as interme-

diary recipients between the reservoirs, or serve as additional sources of supply. •

The

derives

village of Pyrgos, called

its

name from

which was erected calls

in

Borgas (the tower) by the Turks, a water-tower railed Chateau d'Eau by the French,

1184 by the Emperor Andronicus Comenus,

whom

the Greek Nero.

Montesquieu t Bend, properly speaking, means a dyke or dam. the sense pars pro toto.

It is

employed

in

PUBLIC RESERVOIRS.

The bends

are

situated

at

21

heads of ravines.

the

branching from the most elevated points, and forming Pyrgos, Belgrade, Evahuddinn, Pacha

the valleys of

Deressy, and Baghtshy Kouy.*

The

bend

first

of Belgrade. III., in

It

is

called Aivat, or

was

Pyrgos, north-west

entirely constructed

by Mustafa

1765.

The second and

third, the one south,

and the other

north of Belgrade, in the valley of Evahuddiim, are

termed buyuk (great), and esky (old.) One was built or restored by Aclimet III, in 1714 the other is attri;

buted to Suleiman, but was also restored by Achmet. The fourth, to the south-west of Belgrade, is Pasha Deressy, also attributed to Suleiman.

The fifth, sometimes called yeny (new), was erected by Mnhmoud II. in 1817, and is the handsomest, though not the largest of these constructions. f"

The are to

and seventh, named Valida and Mahmoud, The first was built the north of Baghtshy Kouy. sixth

by the mother of Mahmoud I., and the second by that Sultan himself, about the year 1732.

These reservoirs are principally formed by damming up the upper portion of a ravine, by means of a solid

embankment of masonry, from eighteen *

to

twenty feet

See Map.

Mahmoud

hearing him say that he wished observed that nothing was wanting but to erect a work of public utihty, a bend, whereby he would eclipse and wash out the memory of his name" That is a bad comsake Mahmoud I. To this the Sultan replied, Mahmoud I. ate so much dirt that he had need of a deluge to parison. t

Some

of

cleanse his throat."

II. 's courtiers,

22

M

AQUEDUCTS. Those

in thickness, supported by strong counterforts.

of the

Valida

and INIahmoud

II.

are

with

fronted

A

broad paved walk traverses the dam, on which are stone or marble seats. Some are ornamented marble.

with gilded inscriptions on a green ground, indicating Tiiat the names of founders, or rather of restorers.

upon the Buyuk bend

**

says,

The

waters, affrighted at

the stupendous work, recoiled in terror at the sight."

By

an edict of Achmet

III.,

any person convicted of

in-

juring a bend was condemned, if residing in the neighif a bourhood, to have his house razed stranger, to be sent to the galleys.

—

Bash havooz are

circular basins of masonry, lined

with khorassan mixed with tow.

from thirty to

twenty

They

to

forty,

feet.

Their diameter varies

and their depth

Stone

steps

from

fifteen

conduct to the bottom.

receive the overflowings from the bends by

moans

and these channels, being afterwards continued, conduct water in any direction that arched channels,

of

be required. If there be any surplus, it runs off by waste pipes, and serves to nourish the adjacent The largest bash havooz is near Pyrgos, and springs.

may

was

built in

1()20 by the

unfortunate

by water conveyed to

Osman

II.

It

by two aqueducts, called Ozoon and Guzelshy Kemary, (the long and beautiful).

is filled

The body

it

of water, after entering this great basin, flows

through one channel, and passes over the valley of Ali Bey Kouy, by the aqueducts of Justinian and Djebedshy

Kouy, and thence

Of

to Egri

Kapou.

these aqueducts (kemer), there are only six worthy

"

23

AQUEDUCTS. The

of notice.

first,

or most easterly, which forms a

runs across the conspicuous object from the Bosphorus, where it opens valley of Baghtshy Kouy, at the point

was erected by Mahmoud I., the waters of bends numbers six and seven,

into that of

and receives

Buyukdery.

It

which are thence conveyed by means of subterranean channels (sou yollou), to the great taksim of Pera, and

upon the eminences further north, between the burying-ground and new hospital. to that

charged with distributing water to the whole of the suburbs, on the left bank of

The

first

of these taksim

is

the Golden Horn, from Khass

the latter supplies

Kouy

to

Fondookly, while

Dolma Baghtshy and

Beshiktash.

A

taksim, upon the heights above Ortakouy, furnishes the neighbouring villages and palace of Tchethird

raghan.

All

other

places,

from Koorou Tchesma to

Buyukdery, are supplied by water drawn from the above-mentioned aqueduct, or direct from its two feeders, the

contiguous

The extreme length

bends.

is

Baghtshy Kouy aqueduct in the centre.

1270

feet

;

its

The road from Buyukdery

of the

altitude

82

to Belgrade,

one of the most picturesque rides in the neighbourhood, passes underneath.

The second aqueduct,

situated

in

the

vicinity

of

of Petinohory, Pyrgos, and stretching across the valley It is 2,000 is called Ozoon Kemary, (long aqueduct). feet in length,

been erected,

and 80 or, at

in height.

all

It is

supposed to have

events, completely rebuilt,

by

Suleiman the Great.

The

third, called

by some Guzelshy (the handsome),

24

AQUEDUCTS.

and by others Dirsekjy (elbow) Kemary, from its angular form, is divided into two portions, separated by the narrow crest of the eminences that rise between

The length the valley of Pyrgos and Beilik Mandra. of the two portions, which unite upon the summit of the intervening height,

is

1,025

feet,

and the extreme

altitude 100, This aqueduct, also attributed to Suleiman, is

said to have been constructed by the great architect

but Byzantine authors ascribe of the Emperors of the 12th century. Sinan

;

The

its

erection to one

fourth, called Justinian by Franks,

Kemary by Turks, Bey Kouy,

at

Its length

is

is

thrown across

tiie

and Muallak valley of Ali

no great distance from the Sweet Waters. 725 feet, and its central altitude 110 feet.

of two arched stories, the lower exceeding the upper range both in span and height. Both are interspersed with smaller arches, which add to its lightness, It consists

without diminishing the solidity. The base is fifty-six feet wide, but this width gradually diminishes until it decreases to about

fifty

inches, within four feet of the

summit. The space within this contracted portion forms two parallel water-chatjnels, each fifteen inches wide.

These are secured from the weather by strong flat tiles, offering a narrow path for the sou-yoljee (water-way men), whose business

it

is

to attend to cleansing

and

repairs.

The

construction of this aqueduct has been attributed

to Justinian,

and thence

supposed to have been erected somewhere about the year A. D. 538, by Anit

is

themius and Isidorus, the two renowned architects of

25

AQUEDUCTS. and Milete,

Tralles

contradiction

in

But,

in

Asia Minor, to

this

who

built

Aya

Sofia.

Procopius makes no mention of this aqueduct in his Liber de Edificiis, wherein are enumerated all great works erected supposition,

Some Byduring Justinian's reign, from 527 to 565. zantine authors ascribe the original building to the tyrant Andronicus

Comnenus, A. D. 1184, but Nicetas

Choniatas, cited by Andreossy, observes that Andronicus II,, who reigned scarcely two years, merely repaired the

whole structure.

Andreossy

is

also of opinion that the

aqueduct was erected by the great Constantine.

This

hypothesis is confirmed by comparing the structure with other remnants of the earliest Greco-Byzantine epoch.

The

fifth, is

grade,

Pacha Deressy Kemary, south-west of

one of the most remarkable.

and

Its

Bel-

length

is

It serves to convey height 80 feet. the produce of the streams and springs of the valleys, and that of Eski, Buyuk, Yeny, and Pasha Deressy bends, to

1,340

feet,

its

the great conduit that feeds the

The and

is

Elbow aqueduct.

sixth traverses the valley west of Djebedshy

considered the most ancient of

appearance,

nevertheless,

structure,

and

is

II.

475

feet long,

It is

It bears the

all.

of a comparatively

attributed by

Moslems

and 85 high.

connected with this aqueduct, distance southward.

is

Kouy,

to

A

modern

Mohammed bash havooz,

situated within a short

The picturesque aqueduct

of Valens, being within the walls, the description shall be reserved until we reach its

vicinity.

The water conveyed VOL.

II.

to Justinian's aqueduct,

c

by the

26

AQUEDUCTS. and " crooked," is by a continuation of vaulted channels and

intervention of those called "long"" carried,

souterazy, to the great tak«im of Egri

Kapou.

This

and repaired, as the inscriptions indicate, by Achniet III. and Mahmoud II., is situated immediately south of the gate, whence it reservoir, erected by Constantine,

derives

its

name.

It

is

the principal distributer that

supplies Constantinople, through the

medium

of arched

channels and souterazy, which serve to fdl the auxiliary reservoirs of the Seraglio, Aya Sofia, Yeny Haghtshy,

V^ry Batan Serai, Narly Kapou, At Bazary, Scc &:c. These again redistribute water to cisterns, baths, mosques, common fountains, and sebil khana, as far as the Seven Towers.

The great tank

of Sultan Baja/et is, however, supplied by a distinct line of conduits, having their contributing sources west and south-west of

Kavass and Mudoriss Kouy. The waters in their progress pass over an aqueduct called Khavass Kouy Ke-

mary,

fast

falling

into

St.

decay.

Stefano

and

its

depend upon springs, rising in the hills of Kara-! matly, about seventeen miles from the walls. It will be seen from the above, that the grand system

vicinity

of water provision, emanating from an irregular circle, of which Belgrade may be taken as the centre, is divided into

two main channels of supply, leading

central points, one on

the

left,

to

two great

the other on the right

bank of the Golden Horn ; the two bends and aqueduct of Baghtshy Kouy being exclusively devoted to the former, whilst the waters of

all

remaining reservoirs

serve to feed the latter, after traversing Ozoon, Guzelshy,

Pacha Deressy, Djebedshy Kouy, and iMuallak (Jus-

SOUTERAZY. It is

tinian) aqueducts.

27

almost needless to add that this

system renders it difficult to fortify Stambol, words, to defend the city when fortified.

or, in other

The whole

supply of water being from without, and consequently at the mercy of assailants, protracted defence would be impracticable.

The height level, is

of the great Pera taksim, above the sea about 330 feet, therefore 120 feet below the

medium

level of

The altitude of parent springs. distributer is not more than 120 feet above

Egri Kapou

its

the sea, and consequently 230 feet below the level of contributing sources.

To have conveyed

minimum

the waters from the different bends

to their ultimate destination over the

many

intervening

and ravines, a distance of nearly ten miles, by a continuous system of aqueducts, would have caused and valleys

Therefore the perpetuated an insupportable expense.* first great water ducts having been completed, succeeding benefactors resolved to adopt the more simple and economical plan of the hydraulic level, improved

by

intervening

souterazy

(water-balances

or

levels),

These constructions Syria and Arabia. consist of truncated pyramids of masonry, of different employed

in

heights and dimensions, according to position and the volume of water they are required to convey. They are

placed

in valleys,

ravines, or

other

spots,

and,

acting upon the principle of hydraulic levels, serve as inverted syphons. *

The length of the water-channel from the Bash havooz of P3Tgos Egri Kapou is calculated at nine miles one furlong. c 2

to

SOUTERAZY.

28 Wliatevcr

same

may be

their

or dimensions, the

allitutlc

principles of construction are maintained.

Ifpon the side nearest to the channel of supply they are furnished with earthen pipes, through which the fluid,

ascending by

its

own

impulse, mounts to the summit.

Here the ascending pipes terminate, and discharge

their

contents into a small moossluk (water-guage or cistern,) lined with khorassan

and lukium.

l^pon the oj)posite side are one or more orifices, from two to three inches

lower than the supplying tubes. After circulating, and being exposed to the pressure and renovating action of the atmosphere, the water departs through these orifices,

and descends through pipes communicating with underground channels, which convey it to the next souterazy on the

line of the taksim, or distribute

Thus

it

to lateral tanks.

these columns not only supply the

place

of

aqueducts, and thereby produce an immense saving, but, the moosluk on the summits being exposed to atmospheric action, serve as propellents and purifiers, and also as intermediary receivers, whence water can be

turned in any required direction. They likewise enable the sou yoljee to discover the immediate spot when fissures or obstructions occur

Care

is

in

underground channels.

taken that the distributing

terazy

shall

Thus,

wliile

of each sou-

be somewhat lower than the the

ascending impulse

nished, the descending vigour *

orifice

is

preceding.

remains undimi-

increased.*

Foreign legations are privileged to establish distinct pipes connected with the nearest and most convenient tank or souterazy, for their exclusive use.

SOUTERAZY.

29

Souterazy of communication are continued within the A few for in various quarters. city, and may be seen

—

instance,

mosque

that in

the colonnade,

— are handsomely

near the Shahzadeh

ornamented.

Iron stanchions

or rough morsels of stone, as represented in our vigThese serve as nette, project from the sides of some.

" Others, such as those in the powder magazine valley," near Piali Pasha, and at the moosluk

ladders.

between

This

Pera

Buyukdery, have stairs inside. of receives water from the bends

and

moossluk

Baghtshy Kouy, and supplies divers villages on the Moossluk, Bosphorus from Bebek to Yeny Kouy. it speaking, means a spigot ; but in the more enlarged sense for a guage

strictly

is

employed

or receiver.

These, being calculated to admit a given quantity, enable the watermen to regulate both supply and

consumption. It has been objected that, according to the

common

law of hydraulics, these syphons are superfluous, as the water would find its level, and reach its destination conducted through an of closed pipes, with occasional ven-

without the aid of souterazy,

if

uninterrupted line This is true as regards general principles, and tilators. short distances.

But

the fluid

is

in

most instances

re-

than nine miles. quired to traverse a distance of more and, considering the quantity of sediment, and want of probable that perpetual and that the stoppages and leakings would take place, loss by filtration would be equal to half the supply.

air that

would accrue,

The water would

it

is

also be less salubrious

;

the expence

SOUTERAZY.

30

of repairs would be augmented, and the watermen would frequently be unable to discover defects without

The advantage

laborious search. for lateral supply

The

first

known.

would

of just calculation

also be wanting.

not positively are attributed, however, to the Da-

inventors of souterazy are

They

mascus and Bagdad Arabs, who introduced them into This is proved by remnants of water-columns Spain.

met with

at Talavera de le Reyna, Cordova,

and

in

other parts of the Peninsula, where those wonderful people have left many other traces of their scientific superiority

and

quoting Pliny, terazy are the

architectural lib.

same

xxxi.,

c.

skill. (5.,

Von Hammer,

says that the sou-

as the water-guages

(libramentum

aquae) of the ancient Romans, and thence attributes the invention to the latter. This, however, is in opposition to received opinions,

which concur

in

ascribing

tliem to the Arabs.

Having thus described the bends, bash havooz, sou yollou (water-conduits,) kemer, and souterazy, which

form the principal chain of supply and conveyance, I will add a few remarks upon the construction of the taksim, that complete the link. The two great parent " distributers"

Kapou, and Pera.

Both

are

similar

are at Egri in

principle,

These and other large though differing in form. taksim are divided into two distinct portions the tanks

—

and the distributing chambers. The former are oblong buildings of

solid

masonry,

with vaulted roofs, covered with strong slabs or

tiles.

DISTRIBUTION OF WATER.

The

.

31

cemented with khorassan, and then plastered with lukium. The impervious and adhesive qualities of this latter mixture are so efficacious, interior

is

closely

although some taksim are entirely beneath the earth, and thus perpetually exposed to outward infil-

that,

trations as well as inward pressure,

and undoubtedly

coeval with the earliest Byzantine monarchs, yet there

no record of their requiring repairs or of their having

is

ever leaked.*

The tanks have and

air,

iron traps in the roofs to admit light

and a door at the extremity.

which are of

sufficient capacity to

These reservoirs,

hold

many thousand

tons of water, receive supplies direct from the bends.

The water

flows from

into the distributing

The

them through a vaulted

conduit,

chamber.

latter are built in a square or octagonal form,

vaulted and faced internally with stone or marble, and lighted by an orifice in the roof. Three-fourths of the interior * This composition,

unknown

are

divided into

as

England, might be introduced with advantage. Its simplicity and durability are remarkable. Water pipes of burned clay or metal, joined and coated with lukium, which, when dry, becomes as hard as stone, resist the effects of humidity for ages. The if

in

now used by

the sou yoljee. Take one hundred pounds of fresh kilned lime, finest quality, reduced to powder, ten quarts of pure linseed oil, and one or two ounces of cotton.

following

is

the receipt, as

Manipulate the lime, gradually mixing the oil and cotton in a wooden trough, until the mixture assumes the consistence of loaf-dough. Let

When required for dry, and then break it into cakes for store or use. the latter, take a sufficient quantity, moisten it with linseed oil, and with this paste give two or more coatings to the wall or pipes, allowing each coating to dry. Pipes of metal or clay can be hermetically joined

it

by twisting well carded hemp, saturated with lukium, round the interstices, and making it fast with cord also dipped in the mixture.

DISTRIBUTION OF WATER.

32

many compartments (moosslouk)

as there

be dis-

The remainder,

tinct subsidiary reservoirs to supply.*

B,

may

a passage for the sou yoljee (water-wayportion of the latter, C, forms an elevated seat,

left as

is

men). A whereon visiters or proprietors may repose. Tlie water, coming from the tributary tank or nearest souteraxy, flows through an arclied aperture in one of the angles,

and

F.,

circulates in

one or more faces, D.

a large

compartment occupying

This feeds the principal

issue,

always sure to As receive a supply, so long as a drop remains in D. soon as the fluid in this compartment lias readied a

G,

wliich,

being flush with the

floor, is

given height, the surplus passes into the subdivisions, EEE, through funnel-shaped metal orifices, called

massoor and loolalll, whicli are fixed about three inches below the rim of the marble divisions, separating

the compartments. In the event of there being an excess of water in the first compartment, D, and of its rising above the ori-

D

fices to the

brim, the surjilus passes through semicir-

cular apertures, drilled in the upper rim, from JS^, and thence flows into

DD

KKK, dividing

EE

or massoor.

orifices

By

this

through the

means, whilst the grand

delivering conduit. G, is always sure of its supply, there is no loss in case of flood. At the same time, in

order to prevent the conduit

than

its

occasion

fair portion,

may

require,

The massoor *

G

the orifice

from absorbing more is

partly stopped, as

and the balance thus preserved.

are about one-sixth of an inch in dia-

See subjoined ground-plan

of Egri

Kapoussy taksim.

DISTRIBUTION OF WATER.

S3

meter, and the loola eight times that size. Both permit the flow of a certain quantity of water within a given

and thus enable the watermen

period,

The word

distribution.

loola

to calculate the

a tube

signifies

or

chimney, also the bowl of a pipe ; massoor also signifies a tube of inferior dimensions. After passing through these orifices into the smaller moossluk,* the water continues

progress to subsidiary reservoirs, through vaulted apertures, similar to but smaller than its

HH,

The grand channel G, which conducts the water from Egri Kapou to Aya Sofia and the quarters below Sultan Mohammed's

that by which

mosque,

is

it

enters D.

large enough, however, to admit the passage

of a sou yoljee.

sometimes occurs that one subdivision requires a greater supply of water than another ; the guardians then It

stop as

This

is

massoor as may regulate the flow. done with the aid of a few wood-shavinors, which

many

loolas or

are introduced into the inward or funnel side of the orifices.

The

large issues are

dammed by

a sack

filled

with the same cheap and efficacious material. A simple process is also employed to stop cracks or leaks, in the conduits of masonry connecting the taksim with its reFor this purpose, a provision of sawdust is cipients.

always at hand, and the sou yoljee on duty occasionally throws a small quantity into the compartment near

G

and

H H, which, being carried down

current, finds

its

way

by the force of the

into the fissures,

and

effectually

prevents leakage. *

Waterguage. c 5

DISTRIBUTION OF WATER.

34

In order to render the above description somewhat more clear, I subjoin a ground-plan of the TAKSIM OP EORI KAPOU.

U/

o

':i

I

A

I I

U K

ILJ

I. -III. ,111

Entrance

H Passage L'

II IJI

for

Watermen

^

(i

Grand channel

H

Smaller channels of distribution

of distribution

Stage of Repose, elevated over part of Reservoir

1

Mnssoor

K

Small

Large compartinenta

surplus water to flow over JE Receiver of surplus water

Lesser ditto

F Arched

The

channel of supply

drill in

from

rim of division for

D D

quantity of water which one massoor

to furnish in twenty-four hours

is

is

calculated

about two thousand

consequently each division of eight, equal to one loola, distributes 1G,000 gallons. Thus, taking the

gallons

;

minimum massoor

of a taksim at forty-eight, one of

these tanks could furnish about 96,000 But, in gallons. order not to impoverish or drain the sources, and to reserve a full supply in the adjoining reservoirs during

protracted droughts, the water is allowed to flow through F and the orifices I I I for twelve hours only. Thus the daily distribution of a taksim of 48 massoor

duced to 48,000 gallons.

is

re-

DISTRIBUTION OF WATER.

35

Care being taken by the water inspector (sou naziry) and his agents to regulate, as far as possible, the supply

demand

to the

made

to calculate the population thereby.

ever, is

mode

of each quarter, an attempt has been

a most uncertain basis.

This, how-

Calculation by this

rendered nearly impossible, from the quantity of water used and wasted in washing linen and in scouring walls and floors of houses, both of which are carefully is

cleansed at least once a week.

Besides, although

it

were

possible to prove the quantity of water supplied, this

supply would offer no approximative index to consumers. However, taking the whole number of massoor at about

2160, each giving, as above stated, 1000 gallons in twelve hours, it results that a daily supply of more than

two million gallons is distributed through the city and immediate suburbs, which, supposing the population to

amount

Eyoub

to

800,000

souls

for

these

including and Beshiktash, would allow two gallons and a parts,

half for each individual, exclusively of rain water pre-

served in the tanks of mosques and private dwellings, and water drawn from w^ells, that are sunk in all tolerably-sized tenements.

The

calculation of 800,000 souls, exclusive of Scutari

and the Bosphorus villages on both sides, amounting, according to the same calculation, to a total of more than one million,

is

merely

approximative.*

I

en-

deavoured, by repeated inquiries and investigations, to arrive at some definite conclusion, but was constantly * This supposes the population of the Bosphorus from Beshiktash and Scutari to the Black Sea to amount to '200,000 souls.

DISTRIBUTION OF WATER.

3(1

bafTled.

The above

calculation

is

taken from the best

informed persons, INIoslem and Christian, wlio founded their data upon the assertions of the mayors, magistrates,

These data, combined with personal inquiries at the millers' and great bakers', led to the above conclusion. Andreossv reckoned and imftms of the town and suburbs.

the population of the city and immediate suburbs at 630,000 in 1814, shortly after the terrible plague which, in

1812, carried

off'

nearly 150,000 souls.

Since that

time the Turkish population has most rapidly augmented, and the influx of Christians (rayas) has been most ex-

proved by the number of houses built in every direction in the quarters inhabited by them. Water flowing from the taksim is far from pure or tensive, as

clear,

is

especially after

rain.

It

contains

much

ment and decomposed vegetable matter, and, when gushing from the bends or bash havooz,

its

first

scarcely

long passage through the channels, and airing in the souterazy, have the effect of improving quality, and it is not considered unwholesome by

potable. its

is

sedi-

Its

Turks attach much importance to a supply of pure water, and are as nice judges of this medical

men.

natural beverage as are Europeans of choice wine. The result is, that all who can afford the expence deal witii water-sellers,

who send

small tubs to be

filled at

various

renowned spring contiguous to the Bosphorus. Among the springs on the European shore, the waters of which are most esteemed, and supposed to possess, a greater or less degree, the required cardinal qualities, are those of Defterdar 'Skelessy, close to Eyoub ; in

sou YOLJEE COMPANY.

37

Mir Akhor, near the European Sweet Waters Yeny Kuuy and Stenia, in the pleasant valley, near the farm ;

of Tahir Pasha

;

and the Chestnut,

Filbert,

and Sultan's

which springs in the Valley of Roses, beyond Buyukdery, latter source has the honour of refreshing the imperial harem.

The most famous

springs on the Asiatic side

Kara Koulak, behind the Giant's Mountain Tchamlidsha, between Scutary and Beglerbey ; and a spring are

;

upon an eminence in the vicinity of Boulgerloo. Of these Kara Koulak and Mir Akhor are most in vogue.

rising

The company system

is

of

Sou

Yoljee, to

whom

the whole water

This

remains to be mentioned.

confided,

company, under the direction of a sou naziry (water inthe Porte, and of several subspector), appointed by inspectors,

consists

of nearly five hundred men, half

Turks, and the remainder Albanians, exclusively natives, or descended from natives, of Loonjiara, in the Epirus. according to their own assertions, have waterpossessed the art of constructing underground

The

latter,

channels, aqueducts, bends, taksim, and souterazy, from time immemorial ; and their ancestors are said to have

learned this art at a remote epoch from

They now families, fession.

affect to preserve

it

as

the

Arabs.

a secret in their

and educate their sons exclusively for the proSo soon as the lads can support the fatigue,

they serve as apprentices to their fathers, and, on the demise of the latter, succeed to the vacant employment.

In the event of an Albanian Sou Yoljee dying without sons, his office is sold his

widow

by the company,

or daughters, to the senior

for the benefit of

companion

:

if

he

SOU YOLJEE COMPANY.

38

becomes the property of the The number being limited, and the pay and

should leave no children,

it

company. emoluments considerable, the places much as 100 purses (£500).

The company

enjoys

many

sell

sometimes

privileges.

for as

Moslems are

from military conscription, servitudes, and taxes ; and Christians are relieved from haratsh or other imfree

are paid by the nazir according to the The repiece, independent of a small yearly salary. venues of all villages, within the central water districts, posts.

are

They

made over

to the nazir for this purpose.

the most picturesque and richly ornamented establishments under the care of the Sou Voljee are

Among

the beautiful fountains called Sebil Khana,* the most costly of

which are those at Tophana, Eyoub, and the

mausoleum of the their architecture

is

The

general style of florid arabesque, with long pro-

late

Sultan.

Their prevailing jecting and richly ornamented eaves. form is octangular, and the material of which they are comijosed marble.

The windows

of the chamber, whence

the sebiljee liberally distribute water in brass or pewter cups, are fenced with iron gratings, elaborately gilt and designed. The cornices are ornamented with analagous inscrip" The tions, generally to the following effect : spirit of have given them the God is on the waters'"' " " Of all waters of Al Kawzer (the river of paradise) " " In the living things water is the vital principle

— "We

bitter

—

— —

hour the Lord refreshed them with the quickening * Roadside chambers.

sou YOLJEE COMPANY. drink."

The

39

latter alludes to the sufferings of

Hossein

Kerbalah and to the bravery of an Arab water-carrier, who, in despite of the arrows and javelins of Yezid's at

soldiers,

drew water from the Tigris, and

lost his life in

the act of presenting the grateful liquid to the parched lips

of the unfortunate martyr.

This water-carrier, who

reverenced as the patron-saint of the Horse Saka, was named Abdoul Kawzer (servant of the heavenly is

waters.)

DEALERS IN CROCKERY AND GLASS, ETC.

10

8AHN (COVEKED DISH); OPSTy (jVO): KA8HYK (spoons).

TADLA (metal WAITER)

;

CHAPTER

II.

DEALERS IN CROCKERY AND GLASS PERS'

On

MARKET

reaching the

Hammam

;

;

KHANS

;

DRA-

DRESS AND JEWELLERY.

hill

at the extremity

of Aladsha

Street, the left side will be found occupied

by sheds tenanted by Hebrew shehshedjee, who deal in common crockery, narguilla bowls, and brass utensils.

Among

the latter are tassa (saucers), used to place under

the bowls of pipes to prevent ashes from falling

the floor.

upon

DEALERS IN CROCKERY AND GLASS.

41

Opposite to the glass-dealers are the shops of Arme-

who

nian finjanjelar, fine

Bohemian

sell porcelain,

Among

glass.

plated goods, and

these articles

is

a varied

assortment of the small coffee-cups (finjan), principally from Germany, made expressly to fit the stands or saucers

The

called zarf.

latter are like

egg-cups in form, and

are either of silver fillagree, brass gilt, or fine porcelain. Coffee-cups and saucers after the European fashion are

known

scarcely

in

Turkish houses.

Plates or dishes of porcelain or crockery are seldom used by Turks or schismatic Armenians ; but Greeks and Catholic Armenians,

who

are gradually adopting Euro-

pean habits, are good customers indeed, all rich Greek families of the Fanar and Pera have adopted these habits :

as regards the table-service

with few exceptions, are

There

is

china.

also

They

;

still

much demand met with

are

but schismatic Armenians, in

for

a state of transition.

ornamental glass and

in all respectable houses,

are placed upon slabs in the tchitcheklik

These recesses are flanked (oojoora),

arranged. clocks

;

by

upon which various

The

slabs

(recesses).*

carved

small

articles are

and

niches

symmetrically

sometimes serve as pedestals for

at other times they are replaced

by

closets, or

by

bookcases neatly glazed.

The next turning upon

the right hand brings the

passenger into Tchakmakjelar Yokoushy (flint and steel The most remarkable objects at the dealers' hill).f commencement of this acclivity, which divides the second * Literal!}', t

stand for flowers.

Tchakmak means

these articles also

a steel for striking light.

sell Hints.

The smiths who make

DEALERS IN ROSARIES.

42 and third

hills,

are the shops from which the street de-

name, the stalls of dealers in rosaries (tesbih), and some of the most frequented and extensive khans. rives its

Tesbihjees

sell

rosaries of all compositions

both for Moslems and Christians.

The

and forms,

latter are prin-

brought from Jerusalem, and are made of motherThe former are generally comof-pearl or stained wood. cipally

The most esteemed are of posed of rose, box, or bone. sandal or aloes wood, mother-of-pearl, agate, coral, and sometimes of genuine pearls.

Some

are composed of

clay or pebbles collected in the valley of INIina by pilon their return from performing their sacrifices at

grims,

Mecca.

A Moslem

tesbih

must have ninety-nine beads divided

into three equal portions

which

in

common

rosaries

by small oblong separaters, are of the same material as

the other beads, but in those of coral or lapis lazuli consist of a more precious substance, frequently united Each grain represents an at the top by a pearl-loop. attribute of the divinity, such as

Ya

Ya Safy

(O, most pure),

Ya

Hafiz (all-preserver), &c. Ordinary people, when telling their beads, content them" Allah " selves with ejaculating the simple invocation Adil (O, most just),

!

propelled by the thumb and finger, and with repeating the profession of faith when they reach

as each grain

is

but the more devout successively repeat the whole ninety-nine attributes, prefixing to each the the separaters

;

following short prayer called tesbihh, "* be exalted, O great God

"

May

!

* Rosaries derive their

name from

this prayer.

thy

name

DEALERS IN ROSARIES.

43

Rosaries are the invariable plaything of Mussulmans, and indeed of native Christians of all classes and both

No

sexes.

man, whether on

foot or horseback,

without a tesbih in his pocket or his right hand are essential to business

and

kief,

moves ;

they

and are apparently

as necessary to

The

loss

thought as to digestion. of a rosary consisting of Darfoor onyxes had

well nigh produced a terrible scandal in the Prophet's

household.

Mohammed's most

this opportunity to

meet

named Safw^n Ibn

well-favoured Arab,

who had perhaps offered however, was not managed

Moattel, This,

wife

Ayesha, road alight from her camel upon the

having occasion to from Mecca to Medina, seized a certain

beloved

al

her a ripe pomegranate. so secretly as the tender

couple might have desired. Prying eyes were peering from behind the screen of rocks some say those of Sel-

—

man

the barber, others those of

Omer

Halvajee, the con-

fectioner.

Evil tidings travelled as fast in those days as they are

An

envious lago was forthcoming, who produced not a handkerchief but a rosary of onyxes as

wont

in ours.

a proof of guilt.

At

first,

the Prophet

fell

into great

inward perturbation, and would probably have vented his choler upon Ayesha and her lover, had not policy soon superseded passion. In lieu, therefore, of seeking vengeance, he secluded himself during a short time, and then produced the 24th chapter of the Kooran, in which

proclaimed as by divine command, and heavy anathemas are hurled against all scandal-

Ayesha's innocence

is

mongers and traducers.

KHANS.

44

The khans immediately contiguous

to the rosary sliops

are amone: the handsomest and most extensive establish-

ments of

this

kind in the

These and

city.

all

other kliAns

are wakoof, and are thus under the perpetual guardian-

of different

ship

thirty- six

or

Constantinople

mosques.

more of these

pos.