The Woodworking Bible : 3 books in 1 | Turn Your Ideas Into Wood Masterpieces

Citation preview

WOODWORKING Step-By-Step Guide Turn Your Ideas Into Wood Masterpieces With Step-By-Step Techniques To Become a Pro The Fast & Easy Way

By Jerry Mitchell

© Copyright 2021 - All rights reserved.

Table of Contents Introduction Your Space Choosing Your Wood Shop Safety Understand The Woodworking Process How to Measure and Cut Wood Accurately: Master The Cut Learn How to Assemble and Join Wood Protect Your Creations: Best Practices for Sanding & Finishing Wood Projects

Introducti on Our ancestors have been working with wood for thousands of years. Not only were they making stone tools and using animal parts, but they were carving wood to slay those animals and tools that could be combined with rocks to make something greater. Every home in the United States has some form of wood inside, and most pieces of furniture are made from wood. It’s an essential everyday part of our lives, yet most people don’t know how to work with it.

Some of the first tools found were at Kalambo Falls, spears from Germany. These spears were carved with flint tools. Since the Neolithic period, people have carved wooden vessels, with the Vikings being the best at it. In Germany and Denmark, woodworking to create coffins has been known since the Bronze Age. They later moved on to wooden folding chairs and other pieces of furniture. Ancient Egypt and China's early civilizations used woodworking to depict drawings and build furniture such as tables, chairs, stools, beds, and chests. They worked with standard implements like pull saws, saws, axes, and chisels. As you can see, wood has been utilized for a wide range of activities throughout human history, and we still do so today. Concerns about the conservation of hardwoods take a lot longer to grow. If you’re concerned about the wood you use, check out Chapter Three, and ask your local lumberyard where they’ve received their wood. They will gladly let you

know if you are purchasing wood that has been harvested from forests or if it’s from a tree farm. Let’s get started with the basics, and then you’ll find some projects at the end of this book to get your feet wet with woodworking.

Your Space Where you will be creating your projects should be your first consideration. Many people start woodworking in their garages or basement, which is fine, but remember that you'll need a place to store the finished product and the components. You'll need a space to stay organized and move about easily. If you're using power tools, you'll need power outlets that are simple to get to. Because power tools can be quite loud, take into consideration the comfort of both your family and your neighbors. You'll need a workbench, and it doesn't have to be complicated all the time. You can work on it and make your plans known in this area. Most home supply stores sell workbenches that have been commercially made. Look for a workbench with a wood top or another non-marking, smooth top to avoid the surface from scratching the wood you use for your crafts. If your budget allows, consider a model with built-in cabinets and drawers for additional storage choosing a workbench that fits the projects you intend to work on and is appropriate for your retail location. For producing toys, a little workstation will do, but for building armoires, you'll need more room. But you're just getting into woodworking as a hobby. Why not build a workbench for yourself? You will gain valuable experience with this, which will end up being one of your store's most useful products. In this manual, I've provided a simple workbench plan. Try to start your workshop with something you made yourself as soon as possible! It's a great idea to have a container where you can put your tool manuals. If you do this, you won't lose them and they'll be simple to find. In addition, I

recommend a great tool pack for storing your tools and a tackle-style box for storing nails and screws. Similar to most tasks, your efficiency will increase with improved organization. Additionally, you'll save great stress by discovering what you need fast. Some people adore having a pegboard above their workbench to hang their tools. Similar to having a bulletin board system where you can hang the designs for your ongoing project, this is a great idea. Finally, you'll need first-rate lighting. Discount retailers like Home Depot and Wal-Mart may sell store lighting reasonably. What do you require to begin now that you have a job? The obvious response would be wood, which we'll discuss further below.. What is the second obvious response? Tools! Looking After Your Woodworking Tools There aren't many things more exciting than getting a brand-new power tool! After saving the money, conducting the research, and shopping for all the relatives, receiving the box and claiming it as your own is a fantastic feeling. Devices are capable of slicing, drilling, and generally flattening or flattening anything. But you must take care of them. Keep the owner's manual after reading and understanding it for future use. Even after a device is installed, it must be frequently checked for alignment, loose bolts, cleaning, and lubrication. Each tool should be "tuned" to work within its tolerances. For instance, table saw blades must be 90 degrees square to their respective tabletops with the front and rear of the blade running parallel to the miter slots, and band saw wheels must run in the same plane. Drill presses must also lower and elevate

vertically square to their tables. Books are a fantastic resource for this kind of knowledge. Before packing a motor with intensive use, give it time to reach its peak force to be sure it can effectively execute the task at hand. Learn how each device's motor sounds and pay attention to how it sounds when it's under stress. Particularly new devices should be left to operate for a few minutes before being heavily used for the first time. Often, you'll be able to feel or hear trouble coming before it does. Never attempt to use a device too quickly. Something is probably amiss if a method requires excessive force, such as a blade's misaligned crucial parts, tough wood, or insufficient chip clearance. If you believe the gadget is being overworked, use another method, or divide the task into smaller pieces. Find out in advance where your "panic button" is. Practice separating the workpiece from the blade while turning the on and off the appliance. Before you start, make sure you know where the off-switch is and how to get to it. Instead of fumbling with your fingers, you can buy after-market gadgets to access off-buttons with your knee. Always disconnect a gadget before working with or replacing blades. Not only can bumping a switch give you an unpleasant surprise but it has also been seen that faulty switches will connect and turn on in response to an abrupt hit to the tabletop, such as from a piece of wood or a fallen tool. When a power outage occurs, unplug each gadget one at a time, leaving the lights on to let you know when the power has been restored. Keep your equipment neat. Dust should be removed from router collets, pulleys, switches, motor vents, and belts. While manually moving the wheels, clean the band saw tires with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol. Make sure there is no accumulation of sawdust on the gears and teeth of your rack and pinion height modification if you have one.

Make sure your workpiece is tightly fastened in position or directed as it passes a blade, as a general rule. Never cut on a table saw without support; support the workpiece against a fence or a miter gauge. However, never use the two simultaneously, as that could trap the workpiece against the blade and cause a jam or a painful backlash. The ideal way to do cross-cuts is with a panel-cutting sled mounted in the miter slot. When utilizing portable power tools, be sure a wire doesn't get tangled in anything or twist around your feet. Think about how the electrical cable will move freely as you complete the project and whether your cable is long enough before you start. The best advice for new equipment is to familiarize yourself with it and practice using it before getting to business. Even though woodworking is a fantastic pastime, you are still in charge of your health. You now possess the required equipment and instructions. Let's look at a few terms in the woodworking industry that you might not be familiar with. yet to recognize. Woodworking Glossary v An adhesive is a substance that may bind materials together by surface area accessory. v Air Dried - Lumber that has been kept and stacked to allow for natural air drying. v Allen Head - a screw head that has a hexagon-shaped key recess and is commonly found on machinery. The dimensions may still be SAE or metric. v The frame that encircles the table base and the legs and top are fastened is known as the apron. v Bench Dogs are pegs that fit into holes in the top of the workbench and operate with a vise to hold large objects.

v A biscuit joint is an oval-shaped disk that swells to form a tight bind when glued into a slot. To chop the slot, you need a special tool. v Block Airplane: A small plane made to cut across the end grain. v The size of lumber that is one square foot in area and one inch thick is measured in board feet. Divide the answer by 144 to get the total board feet by multiplying the width, density, and length by inches. v Box Joint: Square finger joints attach parts at the proper angles. v A butt junction is formed when the edges of two boards rub against one another. v Caliper: A device with two legs, one of which moves, used to gauge an object's density. v Chuck: a device's holding mechanism, whether a tool or an attachment. Drill chucks and lathe chucks are two examples of this. A compound miter cuts a board's face and edge at an angle. The most frequent application is while shaping a crown. v Crosscut - A cut made perpendicular to the board's grain. v A dado is a groove in a board's face typically used to accommodate a board at a 90-degree angle, such as in shelf uprights. v Dovetail joints link items at a 90-degree angle because their fingers resemble a dove's tail. v Dowel: a wooden pin used to hold two adjacent pieces in place and align them. v Dowel Center: Metal buttons that go into a dowel hole that has already been drilled to mark the location for drilling a second piece. v The two-part adhesive epoxy glue can essentially bond anything to anything. v A "European Hinge" is a hidden style hinge attached to the door with a cup hole. A filler is a substance that plugs pores and other irregularities

v v v

v v v v v v

v v

v v

v

on a component's surface to minimize porosity before applying a finishing coat. Long, tapering fingers are used in finger joints to join materials lengthwise, frequently used in molding to join short lengths. -Grain: The appearance, size, and orientation of the wood fibers A hand plane is a tool to rough up and smooth wood surfaces. It has an angled attached blade to the frame and is moved over the board by hand grips. Jig: a tool used in production or assembly that holds or guides work. The saw cut width, density, and blade configuration influence kerf. Kick Back: When a cutter kicks a workpiece back, it can be prevented using anti-kickback devices on power instruments like table saws. Medium-Density Fiberboard, an incredibly stable underlay that will be laminated Miter Box: A tool that helps a saw make miter joints. An adjustable head guide that fits a slide and slot across a power tool table and allows for angular component cutting is known as a miter gauge. Miter Joint - A joint is made by slicing pieces at an angle. Molding refers to a strip of the component having a profile cut on the opposing sides that is used for trimming. Ogee: An S-shaped incision that produces two similar parts. "Particle Board" refers to any component of wood shavings that have been bonded together. Plumb is the phrase used to describe something perpendicular to the earth in terms of gravity. You can get a plumb line straight down and up by attaching a plumb bob to the string end. A glued wood panel, typically 4' X 8' and made of thin wood layers

v v v v v

v v v

v v

that are put at the proper angles to one another, is known as plywood. Rip Cut - a cut made along the board's length with the grain. Sawhorse: A trestle used in settings to hold the wood while it is being cut. A thin wood strip inserted between two grooves to form a junction is known as a spline. T-slot: A grated slot shaped like an upside-down T holds specialized bolts for clamps or jigs. Table Saw: A circular saw with adjustable blade height and angle positioned beneath a table. A taper cut is one where the width narrows from one end to the other. These are normally completed with a jig and a table saw. Tear out - The propensity of cutting against the grain to fracture the component's tracking edge Template: A design that guides cutting or marking shapes; normally, a router and a piloted bit are used. Tenon: A protrusion made by cutting away the wood surrounding it and inserting it into a mortise to form a joint. Groove and Tongue - a form of joinery where a board has a groove on one edge and an extended tongue on the other. The tongue of the board is guided into the appropriate groove. Witness Marks are marks applied to boards or parts to maintain order during joining, gluing, and assembly. X-Acto Knife - This tool has a handle with a blade that resembles a razor and comes in various shapes. It is excellent for fine work. There are numerous distinct terminology used in the woodworking industry. Without a doubt, the foregoing list is incomplete. You'll become aware that you are learning the terms as you gain more experience with carpentry and woodworking.

v One material you cannot live without if you work in the woodworking industry: wood!

Choosing Your Wood

The two most common forms of wood are hardwood and softwood. Additionally, plywood and other wood products have been made. For every given work, you use several factors, including strength, solidity, grain characteristics, cost, stability, color, weight, sturdiness, and availability. Softwoods like pine are often where beginning woodworkers begin. Due to its softness and ease of use, you can get fantastic results without spending a lot of money on instruments. It is offered by neighborhood hardware stores and lumberyards. It has restrictions when it comes to constructing furniture. It is softwood, therefore the deterioration will happen quickly. An evergreen or coniferous tree produces softwood. Fir, pine, hemlock, spruce, redwood, and cedar are common tree species. These woods are largely used in the market for housing construction. Redwood and cedar are excellent choices for outdoor projects, while pine is typically used to make "Early American Country Design" furniture. Pine and most other softwoods are less stable because they absorb and release moisture more quickly than hardwoods. At least two weeks before you begin

your job, buy the lumber, and bring it inside. You'll find that softwoods come in standard densities and widths. For instance, a 1 X 4 will be 3 1/2" wide and 3/4" thick, similar to construction materials. The product will normally be priced per lineal foot, and the cost will increase proportionally as the board width increases. Each year, hardwood trees lose their leaves; they are the source of lumber. Among the most common domestic species are maple, oak, birch, cherry, ash, walnut, and poplar. Out of these prevalent native hardwoods, only poplar and red oak are frequently sold at hardware stores and lumberyards. The others must be purchased from specialty stores. The stock kept in lumberyards and home improvement stores is frequently sold by the linear foot and in dimensions resembling softwood. When the wood is still rough, the density of hardwood lumber is measured in quarters of an inch and displayed at specialized stores. The thinnest stock is 4/4, and the thickest stock that is frequently on hand is 16/4. Pine isn't cut to precise dimensions like hardwoods; instead, its lengths and widths are offered at random. Working with hardwoods is very different than working with pine; you must first drill a pilot hole before attempting to drive a screw through hardwood lumber. Hardwoods need to be planed and cut with extremely sharp tools. When constructing furniture, hardwoods make excellent materials. Ash and oak are cited as two types of open-grain hardwoods. Variable amounts of thick, rather permeable wood are present in several species. When stained, the open-grain areas take the color better than the harder-to-stain areas. This highlights the grain patterns and results in an excellent result. A board feels more consistent throughout when made of a closed-grain wood

like cherry, birch, or maple. Poplar is another closed-grain wood, but it has a color spectrum that includes beige, purple, and shades of olive green. Because of this peculiar color, it is rarely utilized when a piece of furniture will have a clear finish. This wood looks stunning when painted or stained. For jobs requiring hardwood framing, poplar, which is less expensive, is an excellent substitute. Hardwood is more durable and less prone to dents and scratches. It is also more expensive, but it will be finished to a much higher standard. Softwoods like pine are more prone to dents and scratches than hardwoods because they are less durable. Softwoods are much more widely available and less expensive. Contact your supplier and ask for "Class 1" or "Select Grade" lumber. Verify that it is completely dry and free of kinks and problems. (It probably won't be entirely defect-free, but make sure you know how to get around them.) Particle Board and MDF are the two most often produced sheets used in the production of furniture (Medium Density Fiberboard). Both are constructed from wood shavings mixed with glue and pressed together. Compared to particle board, MDF makes smoother, stronger objects because of its smaller particle size. MDF performs well, which is why it is frequently used for molded components on painted furniture. Its primary flaw is that it weighs a tremendous amount more than actual wood. They are exceptionally stable in all metrics thanks to their layered structure. A panel's grain and color should be uniform because each veneer is normally cut in succession from the same piece of wood. It could be challenging to match the uniform grain pattern of the panels with the strong wood's irregular

grain pattern. The task's most evident aspects, though, might be precisely matched with careful planning. Real restrictions exist on produced sheets. Regardless of the core, the edge must always be concealed when using them, and surface veneers are frequently very thin—less than 1/32 in. The surface is hence fragile and prone to splitting, particularly at the back of a saw cut. Furthermore, due to the veneer's thinness, strong sanding may easily penetrate it, exposing the undesirable core beneath. As we already stated, the type of wood you use depends on the project you are working on. Only projects that will be painted might be completed using MVF, and it is normally a good idea to choose furniture made of materials like oak or cedar. Most likely, you'll get your wood from a lumberyard or a store that offers building supplies, like Lowe's or Home Depot. A few things should be kept in mind when choosing your lumber. According to quality grade, length, density, wood type, and several other classifications, wood boards will be stacked in tall stacks at the lumber yard or shop. There are variances in quality even among stacks of boards that are stacked to look the same, so utilize these straightforward principles to help you choose the right boards for your projects. Don't accept any positions you don't want! Beginners in the lumber industry could feel pressured to take the initial boards. Do not be afraid to carefully inspect each board and return those that do not meet your standards. Why spend money on a damaged board that won't work for your project? Get into the habit of declining offers as soon as you can. It's not an insult and a way to pay for wood you could use.

Check to make sure it's straight. Position the board so that one end is on the ground and the other is at eye level. Look for any visible bends or twists along the length of the board. Curved boards are manageable for some jobs, but they could be too difficult for beginners. Warping and splitting should be looked for. Verify the board's edges on both sides for any deformed edges. In order to maximize the quantity of wood you may use for your project, avoid utilizing boards that would produce a lot of waste due to warps and cracks. It's okay if you want a really gnarly piece of wood because some woodworking projects may find knotholes appealing. Otherwise, watch for significant knotholes in your boards that could cause waste wood or loose knot fragments to fall out, weakening or gaping your components. For outstanding woodworking operations or projects that require a straight grain, quarter-sawn timber delivers even wood graining, but it is more expensive than standard plain-sawn board. Make a decision regarding your willingness to spend more for straight grain before choosing your boards. Make sure each board is thoroughly inspected to rule out wormholes and other damage, and to make sure the color is appropriate for your project. Inspect the surface for dents, chalk from the lumberyard, or indelible pen markings as well. It might be intriguing and enjoyable to work with used planks acquired from old barns or other projects. Nevertheless, while choosing or purchasing salvaged lumber, look out for indicators of deterioration. The board could not function well as project wood if it is mushy, spongy, or shows signs of fungal For use in outdoor projects, pressure- and chemically-treated timber is better suited to withstand changes in humidity and temperature. When building a deck or other outdoor project, ask for treated lumber, and untreated boards

are a far better alternative in such cases. For a newbie woodworker, softer woods like spruce or pine are typically preferable to start with. As you are more experienced, you can move on to harder woods like cedar and oak since they are simpler to work with. You're nearly ready to begin, but let's first go through some safety considerations that all accomplished woodworkers observe.

Shop Safety

Safety is essential when working with large boards, machinery that might cost you a limb, and sharp saws. Avoid making any mistakes that could endanger your life or health! When utilizing power tools for extended periods of time or when sculpting, scraping, sanding, or pounding overhead, safety goggles or glasses should be worn. Whoever using contact lenses should take note of this. Protect your ears when using loud power equipment. The decibel levels at which some tools work are damaging to hearing. Roll up your sleeves, take off your jewelry, and take care of your clothing and loose hair so that it doesn't get caught in equipment. Keep tools away from children's reach. The proper face mask or respirator should be worn when sawing, sanding, or working with substances that release dangerous fumes. Oily rags can catch fire anytime, so use caution when using and discarding them. Keep the blades sharp. A dull blade requires great energy and may slip,

which leads to accidents. Utilize the right tool for the job every time. Tools having cracks in the metal sections, chips, or wooden handles should be repaired or discarded. Never saw, drilled, or shaped anything that isn't firmly fastened. Do not misuse your equipment. If you are weary, avoid using tools. The majority of events occur at that time. After consuming alcohol, refrain from using any tools. Your judgment might be clouded by alcohol. Wait till you've finished your task before you celebrate! Avoid smoking near combustible materials like stains and solvents Learn how to use each tool properly by reading the owner's manual. When adjusting settings or changing parts, disconnect all power tools. Use caution when adjusting the table saw's fence settings and when making cuts with push sticks, safety guards, fence straddlers, push blocks, and feather boards. The most valuable tool you have at your disposal is your brain; use it. Thinking through your cuts and motions before acting could help you avoid wasting scrap wood and fingers. Pay attention to what you do. If you look up to see the store TV or a customer, your hand could contact the blade. Always wait until you have done cutting before removing your focus from the blade. Remind yourself that this is simply a hobby if you find yourself getting impatient or angry with a project. We make mistakes when we rush to complete a task. Unless your saw is holding up, stop cutting and investigate the issue. A board might frequently become stuck mid-cut if the throat plate was not properly positioned or the rip fence was misaligned. In certain situations, pushing the board can result in a kickback or contact with the blade. Spend a moment analyzing the situation and determining the problem.

Permit the tool to shut down. A security mistake that is frequently ignored is giving the power tool time to relax after a cut. The spinning blade could still cause much damage, even without power. Accidents are caused by carelessness, poor judgment, risks, wear out, and roughhousing. Other factors include faulty instructions (not reading manuals), missing guards, inappropriate attire, broken equipment, a small workspace, and insufficient lighting. The best way to prevent an accident is to familiarize yourself with any new equipment before using it. Read the manual and conduct a dry run with the equipment unplugged. Just use a tool or device for what it was made for. Do not attempt to complete something oneself if two people are required. Wait till help is offered. Keep your store neat. Unorderly stores are disasters just waiting to happen. Maintaining order in your store will help to keep you and your tools safe. Decide where the hand tools are kept, and arrange the containers for screws, nails, and other hardware. Sweep up at the end of the day. Airborne dust and solvent vapors may cause explosions and provide health risks. A fresh air supply must be ensured, and only explosion-proof vent fans should be used. It helps if you know the most frequent mistakes beginners make when beginning their wood projects, just as there are safety precautions you should adhere to.

Understand The Woodworking Process

It's time to go into the process and discover how to create it from scratch now that you have the space, the tools, the project, and the knowledge of safety precautions. For the most part, all steps in woodworking designs are identical. Sometimes, different, the same from beginning to end. You take the same steps each time you manufacture something. When attempting to make your inventions, having a solid understanding of the woodworking process will save you a lot of time and aggravation. Even though every woodworker has their routine and method of working, they generally follow these procedures when building a project: v Decide on a project. v Compile Materials & Supplies

v v v v v

Create a shortlist. Examine the Build Plan. Calculate and cut the wood Put the Wood Together Give the wood a protective finish.

Following the fundamental procedures, you need to be effective in developing a system that works for entire projects. You risk making mistakes or losing your focus if you attempt to complete all these tasks at once.

How to Measure and Cut Wood Accurately: Master The Cut

Knowing how to calculate properly when you are new to woodworking is another crucial skill. It can be challenging to attempt and get two separate boards that are the same size if you do not know the strategies to create even and clean cuts every time. As a beginner, you would save a ton of time and money if you learned how to cut wood accurately. When possible, buy longer boards that you can cut yourself to save money.

Learn How to Assemble and Join Wood

Properly joining two pieces of wood is just as crucial as timber and tools! Your life will be much easier if you know the shortcuts and techniques for connecting all the wood pieces. It all depends on the job you're working on, but you need to become familiar with various adhesives and fasteners kinds. Additionally, there are a few ways to combine wood into various finishes. Additionally, there is a variety of assembling techniques that, when used collectively, make the procedure even more fun. To begin with, you should probably acquire the technique of dry fitting before attempting to assemble anything. However, in almost all circumstances, woodworking clamps are your best friend.

Protect Your Creations: Best Practices for Sanding & Finishing Wood

You can move on to the next phase, which is to sand the part and add security to your project if your project is successfully finished. Woodworkers must comprehend the foundations of sanding and finishing their creations. It implies that the designs are successful and will continue to be valued for some years. If you use a clear cover, stain, or paint the piece, sanding the furniture will produce a smooth finish, ensuring that no one gets a splinter while attempting to use the item you have made. Whether using sandpaper or spending money on something similar, there are many ways to sand wood. A protective finish is applied following the sanding of the artwork. The type of project and intended use will both influence the protective coating you choose. Before staining, prepare the wood by sanding it.

A simple understanding of sanding and wood preparation before staining can aid in speeding up and simplifying the staining process.

Power Tools Or Sandpaper

The grade or grate of the sandpaper is determined by the number of sand grains per square inch of paper. The grade rises as the student body grows. Grosser sandpaper is of inferior grade. The numbness is typically noted on the back of each sheet. Medium and fine sandpaper grades are typically used to finish antiques and furniture. Greys that are rougher than #100 harm the wood's fine finish. You may eliminate aged or scratchy finishes using medium grains like # 120 and # 150. Fine grains, like # 220, are also used for the final light sanding before

the wood is stained. Power tools make sanding easier, but they are designed for heavier construction and can easily harm expensive antiques. Belt sanders are one example of a heavy-duty tool. An excellent tool for refinishing is a palm sander. For fine finishing and sensitive parts, hand sanding is suggested. The fourth sheet of sandpaper should be torn into three pieces that can be held in your hands with three fingers each. You can manufacture a make-up sanding tool by wrapping a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood that is small enough to fit in your hand. It would be even better if you could fit the ends of a contoured sand block, available from hardware stores, into each of the grooves on the block's ends. Sands And Grains Closer inspection reveals the surface pores that create the grain pattern on a piece of wood. Sand frequently lies perpendicular to the grain or at an angle to it. Working on corners, especially those that are challenging to strike, also causes it to happen. Sanding will leave unattractive scratches on the completed product, which will still be visible after staining. The item should be positioned with a cozy, horizontal surface. Keep the sanding block level and push firmly and evenly while working with the grain to get a smooth finish. Either excessive pressure or the corners of the sanding block are to blame for excessive wood depressions. The same rules apply when using a palm sander: sand with the grain, maintain flat contact with the wood and apply pressure as required. Eliminating Dust Before staining the surface, the wood dust created during the sanding process

must be cleaned. The most effective dust-removal equipment is not dry rags or brushes. Use a tack cover instead, which is a special kind of sticky cheesecloth. Dust the tackle cloth that has been folded and placed over the wood. When the tissue is entirely covered with dust, replace it to provide a clean surface. Tack cloths should be kept in a sealed plastic bag to prevent shrinkage between uses; however, you can make your own by soaking a 12" piece of cheesecloth in a little amount of motor oil. Using a particle mask while working is recommended because most of the wood dust produced by sanding is transmitted.

Projects Boxes Boxed living room You may simply construct the living room box to keep remote controls or anything else. The lid is detachable and has no hinges. Tools v v v v v v v v v v v v

Hand sander Sandpaper Quick Square Saw Clamps Clamp Strap Measure tape Figure Saw Press Drill Chipped Set The screwdriver Saw and Miter Box

Materials v v v v

Wood (4' 1x4) Waste Wood 1/4-inch wooden dowel Screws

v Wood gluing v Ruler Procedure ü Measure starting at the end: Four 7-inch-long boards ü (2) 5-inch boards 8 ½" Board ü Measure after each cut rather than all at once since a saw removes a little channel of wood at a time. ü Clamp the wood piece into the miter box for more precise measurement and start measuring from the one-inch mark. ü Before applying adhesive, do not smooth any rough edges. When you're done, the straight edge will be damaged, and there will be holes. ü Put wood glue on the long edges of one of your seven-inch pieces. ü Create a "U" shape by placing two more seven-inch boards on the glued edges ü For a secure grasp, loosely clamp the ends. ü Without glue, position the final seven-inch board at the top and secure it with a clamp. To ensure that the edges are straight on all sides, do this. ü Tighten your clamps and check to see if anything has moved. Give it a minute to dry now. ü Remove your clamps once it has dried, then lay the unglued 7" board aside. ü Apply some adhesive to the "U"-shaped edges before attaching the end caps. ü After attaching the clamp to both end caps, leave them to dry overnight. ü Take the clamps off. ü Check to determine if the seven-inch board fits within the top using the

glue-free version. Close but not too close is ideal. ü Measure a line 34 inches deep on either side of your final 8 12-inch boards. The seven-inch piece ought to fit neatly within the boundaries. ü Put the seven-inch board between the lines on the eight-and-a-half-inch board using glue on one side alone. Clamp it down so that it won't move. ü Unclamp it after the adhesive has cured to check if the lid fits. ü Paint and sand.

Locked Box Tools

•

Measuring ruler or tape Table saw or miter box and saw Wood gluing Clamps Four foot 1x4 of wood One 2-inch-long nail Use two bits to drill Sandpaper Scrap wood

Materials Cut the board into the sized as follows: Three 6" pieces Two (4 14" pieces) (1) 7 ½" Piece

Two (3 by 4)-inch blocks One (1) 3" by 3" block with one end rounded with sandpaper or a sander. Procedure 1. Box  Start by gluing, joining the two six-inch sections to form an "L" shape. Edge alignment must be done with care.  Put a clamp on that and give it an hour to dry.  Unclamp the two end pieces, then glue them.  Place a clamp on the ends and wait an hour for them to dry.  e . Remove the clamp, then glue the final six-inch piece.  Overnight, clamp and let dry. 2. Key and Top  Drill through the center of the 3" by 3" block with a rounded end and the single 3" square block with a bigger drill bit.  Use the smaller bit to drill through the center of the final 34" block.  You can check how well it fits by inserting the screw through the bigger holed block and into the smaller one. Don't make anything tight.  Leave the parts put together.  Place your 7 12" piece on top of the completed box to provide a level surface for the hinge assembly.  Mark the midpoint of the back piece's vertical portion with a sharpie. At three inches, it ought to be.  Glue the two squares together, then press firmly. Remove the top piece, three-inch block, and screw once it has settled.  Reassemble the three-inch block and top after the glue has dried, leaving the clamps in place.

 The three-inch block should be glued down after ensuring the top is square. Make sure the glue is not close to the back edge.  The next day, let it dry.  In the morning, unclamp and check to ensure everything is operating normally.  Before sanding and painting as desired, remove the top.

Toolbox

Initially intended only as a location to store tools, the tool chest project has evolved into a significant component of my school's two-year Furniture Making curriculum. Although simple in look and design, it presents our pupils with genuine and unexpected obstacles. They understand the importance of organizing the sequence of operations, assembling the real parts, and selecting from various techniques. Since this tool chest is the students' first significant undertaking, we have set more specific requirements to keep the emphasis on craftsmanship rather than the overall design and proportions. Mahogany, cherry, walnut, or maple are examples of primary woods. Soft maple, poplar, and pine are available as supplementary wood options. Students are permitted to use highly figured timbers just for the panels. At the smaller end of our size range, this tool chest measures 16 inches deep by 24 inches wide by 14 inches tall. However, students can construct them up to 18 inches deep by 30 inches wide by 17 inches tall. Another area where unique designs differ is the size and arrangement of the drawers and the frame-and-panel lid. The usual chest has a through-

dovetailed carcass with dovetailed drawers that glide on mortised-andtenoned divider frames and can be scaled or full-size. The box may be locked using the lid, a starting point for setting a full-mortise lock. Once the box has been unlocked, there is a place to put the lid above the top divider. Even the shiplapped back and dovetail joints add to the learning opportunities when making this tool chest. In this section, I'll concentrate on cutting the dadoes and rabbets, installing the horizontal dividers, fitting the vertical dovetailed partition, and mounting the lid and its components. The chest, which is not portable, looks fantastic on a countertop and fits neatly beneath most workbenches Start as follows v A dovetailed carcass is the best because dovetails are a key element of woodworking. v Therefore, choosing the carcass joinery is a logical choice. v The panels can be planned out, cut, and fitted by hand after being adjusted for length and width. v We start with pins, scribe the lines, and then fit the dovetails. v We confirm the case for squareness once all four curves have been dryfit, then lay out the dadoes and rabbets. v The front and back borders of the case must be flush to serve as consistent reference exteriors, which is a crucial aspect of the plan. Procedure: v The dadoes firmly grip the partition frames. v However, they also offer the chance to learn layout guidelines, best practices, and secure and efficient plunge and stopped cut techniques. v When the case is dry-fitted, with joints closed and the case square, the key refers to the interior and exterior surfaces.

v Transfer the dado locations to the inner faces of the case ends, starting from the inside face of the case bottom using a marked story stick. v To lay out the front end of the halted dado, use a marking gauge off the case's front edges. v The drawer fronts and divider front edges will lie in the same plane in front of the stopped dadoes because the front is already flush. v Until the shiplapped back covers it, the dado will extend past the rear edge and be visible in the rabbet. v Since cutting dadoes using a router takes longer and is more difficult, I lay out the dadoes and then use a table saw with a dado blade that is 12 inches broad to cut them. v One of the most crucial safety requirements is a clamped block to support the workpiece when making stop cuts on the table saw. v The technique needs careful planning, labels to aid in direction, and mental concentration. v Each pair of dadoes requires one plunge and one halted cut because you are working on the two opposing sides, and it is safest to keep the end of the panel closest to the dado against the rip fence. v As a result, for each dado, you either start at the back and work your way forward, or you start at the back and stop at the front. v Mark the fence to indicate the precise location of the blade's cutting edge so you know where to stop and start. v To ensure uniform depth, we use a router plane to complete the dadoes and a chisel to square up the ends of the layout lines. v Cut the rabbets for the case back after the dadoes. v The top and bottom rabbets are completely continuous. v To allow me to run the rabbet through my pins, I set them out, so they are at least as wide as the rabbet.

v Each side of the sides receives stopped rabbets. As I would with dadoes, I cut them on the table saw. Each piece has a plunge cut, and a stopped cut instead of just one or the other, which is the only distinction. v The top drawer divider creates a position for the lid once it is stowed away, while the bottom one rides in the dadoes in the sides and gives the drawers a place to ride. v Simple mortise and tenon joints keep them connected. v We use a router table and a 3/16-inch bit for the mortises, and the table saw is used to cut the tenons. v After milling the parts, keep them thick so you can use a hand plane to fine-tune how well they fit in the dadoes. v After gluing the frames, clean up the glue, flush the joints, and skim any mill marks with a hand plane. v Confirm the length of the frame to the space from dado to dado. v Trim the frame if required. v Test-fit the thickness of each frame to its dado. v If the frame has been skimmed, only the bottom of the frame needs to be planed to fit. v Once each frame fits in its dado, skim the front edge of each frame with a hand plane, and then lay out the notch and trim with a handsaw. v Confirm the front edges for alignment relative to the case front. v If both the stopped dadoes and the frame notches were laid out and executed cautiously, the frames’ front edges should lie in a plane. v If not, adjust them. v The top drawer divider is laid out, so there is enough space above it to store the lid.

v It likewise has brackets attached to the front, which act as a stop for the lid. v They lie in the same plane as the stepped stop at the bottom of the case, which I make by gluing a rather oversize block to each side of the front of the divider, shaping it at the bandsaw, and cleaning it up at the bench. v You’ve created the spaces for the lid and most drawers, yet the bottom drawer space isn’t complete. v The bottom drawer rides on a stepped stop, a transition from the plane of the drawer fronts and door stop and blocks glued behind it. v The dimension in the front edge and the top fillet or step has to be precise, as does the piece's position in the case. v An effective way to guarantee this is to make the distance in the steps larger than required. v Dry-clamp the stop in place, according to the back step. v Then glue in the first block behind the stop, making sure not to glue the stop yet. v Now, you can confirm and adjust the front step as required and precisely position it once gluing it in. v The venture requires one level of drawers to be divided by a vertical dovetailed partition. v Before gluing the divider frames in, layout and fit the dovetailed partition. v Again, utilize a story stick to establish its location. v Often, a student’s first inclination is to align one divider with the other and mark the top and bottom of the partition. v Our technique is to utilize a story stick and reference one of the inside faces of the case.

v The results are more consistent this way. v Locate the first side of the dado for the partition. v The shoulders of the dovetail are sunk into a ⅛- inch dado in the dividers. v This registers the partition and gives it rigidity that the dovetail alone doesn’t. v After notching the partition so that the shoulders bottom out in the dado, the front ½ inch of the partition becomes the dovetail. v Make the dovetail and, utilizing a sharp pencil, scribe the socket lines onto the dividers. v These lines are transferred to complete the socket layout. v Once sawn and pared to the lines, the dovetail is test-fitted to the socket. v Make any necessary adjustments to the socket. v With dividers and partition fitted, dry-clamp each item so you’ll know your technique and what clamps are necessary. v Glue is merely applied to the front 3 to 4 inches of the dado. v The case must have adequate room to expand and compress without hitting the remainder of the frame. The clamps should be prepared to draw the frame tightly to the front because the joint will grip before it completely shuts. Finishing v Make the lid frame the appropriate size to fit the lid space in the case's front. v Dry-fit the frame after it has been constructed, then mark the groove depths on the face of the frame to indicate the sizes of the panels. v This gives the panels precise size.

v Raise the panel on the table saw, and then use a rabbet plane to fit it manually. v Prefinish the panels before gluing them into the frames. v A well-fitted drawer is a hallmark of our program. v We want a drawer that slides in and out simply and quietly, with just enough clearance for its function and wood movement. v First, fit the drawer parts into their corresponding spaces. v You want no gaps at this point. v I made the drawer back 1/32 inch shorter than the front to facilitate fitting. v After the drawer has been dovetailed and assembled, test it for wind resistance by placing it on a level surface outside. v Before fitting, if necessary, fix it with a smoothing plane. v For the chest's rear, I use a table saw with a dado set to cut the shiplapped components, then counterbore and use round-head screws to join them. v The full-mortise lock on the top edge and pins and sockets on the bottom edge holds the lid in place. v I set the lid in place to position the pins and sockets and drill the little holes. After that, the hardware is pressed into place. v To ensure that the entire component fits flush inside the lid, the lock set consists of a deeper mortise with a shallow hand-cut mortise and a shallow strike plate at the top to catch the bolt. v I hand plane, scrape, and sand the chest to P220 grit before applying the finish. v For the interior and sliding contact surfaces, I use shellac and wax. v I apply Fast-Drying Polyurethane on the outside. v I use P400 grit to sand after the first layer.

v Following the second coat, I use steel wool to sand the exterior and polish wax to wax it.

Wooden Shelf Tools you’ll Need: v v v v v v v v

A tape measure. A screwdriver. A saw. A pencil. Optional but recommended: Sandpaper. Optional but useful: A stud finder. Optional but useful: A level. Optional: Wood glue.

Material v A wooden board, 4 x 4, is recommended. v Screws. v Two brackets. Instructions: v Let’s begin with where you want to hang a new shelf. Use a stud finder if you have one to locate the studs in the wall. Make sure to fasten the shelf to the stud for the strongest support possible. Mark the studs and measure the distance between them. This tells you how big your shelf is. Remember that the studs don’t need to be the two next to each other. You can always skip a stud if you are doing a larger shelf or have studs very close together. The important part is that they offer solid support

v

v

v

v

v

for the shelf. If you skip a stud and find the shelf isn’t secure, you can attach an additional bracket to the shelf and the stud you skipped over. Use a level and mark the studs so that they are even horizontally. Take your board and cut it to your measured size with your saw. Hand or electric is fine; use sandpaper to smooth the edges. For a shelf, you aren’t going to want a very thick board. However, strong wood could be beneficial if you use it to store heavy objects. Remember, the biggest issue with weight on a shelf is the tension it puts on the brackets and not the board itself. Before doing anything further, you should probably apply finish to the shelf. Stay tuned for the following steps, where we will thoroughly go over the finishing procedure, for instructions on how to apply the finish. You have two options for attaching your bracket, depending on the most comfortable. You can attach them to the wall first, or you can attach them to the shelf first. They're great for hanging on the wall. The shelf can be sat on them then, and a heavy book can apply downward pressure so that you can screw up into the board. If possible, the second set of hands to hold the shelf will make it a thousand times easier. There you have it; you just made and installed a new shelf. It does look a little plain, though, don’t you think? I certainly do with the one in my kitchen now. I want to use it as a spice rack, but they look pretty boring just sitting there. But that’s the cool thing about these shelves, and it’s easy to expand and build on them. I need to measure the board's dimensions to turn mine into a spice rack. How long across is it, and how wide is it? With these numbers in mind, I’m going to start with the longest piece and use my saw to cut a strip for the front. It’s half an inch tall and half an inch thick, but it’s the entire length of the shelf. Screw this into the shelf from the bottom.

Now I measure the width again, this time from the new strip I added rather than the board's full length. Since both sides are the same, I only need to measure it once, but I need to cut two pieces to this length, the same height and width as the front strip. I screw these in from the bottom and use wood glue along all the seams to make them tighter. Of course, I will also apply finishing matching the new pieces to the initial style. v Presto, now it looks much more like a spice rack. With a little bit of modification, a boring shelf can be made more interesting. You could make wood designs and screw them into the sides to act as bookends; you could add full sides and a top shelf to create a cube shelf. This is one of those projects that start as simple as possible but can get more complicated as you gain experience and let your creativity fly.

Coat Rack Tools v v v v v v v

A saw. A screwdriver. A tape measurement. Wood glue. Optional but recommended: Sandpaper. Optional: A stud finder (only needed if you’re mounting it yourself). Optional: A level (only needed if mounting it yourself).

Material v A wooden board, 4 x 4, is recommended. v Hooks.

v Screws. Instructions: v Select your desired wood. A 4/4 board will be a good thickness, but it will be a little too wide. If you are hanging this coat rack in your own home, you can find instructions on using a stud and preparing your wall in project #1, so we won’t bother going over those again. But your plank will be too wide for a coat rack if you do a single-strip coat hanger. v So, once you have the measurement for how long your coat hanger will be, you need to cut it. If you are making one sale or gift rather than for your own home, you aren’t able to get exact measurements, so stick with a foot. That should be enough space to hang at least four hooks. If you find that this is too long for you, you can always remove wood much quicker than you can add it. v Use a pencil to mark the length and your saw to cut. Next, measure the board's width and make a pencil mark halfway. Before you cut, take your hooks and place them on the board to see how much space they need. You might need three-quarters of the board using large hooks rather than half. Half is about where you’ll find yourself cutting with most hooks, though. v It is a good idea to sand the board once it has been cut. While this is optional, nobody will want a coat rack that gives those splinters. For a cool look, try sanding down the corners on all the edges of the side that’ll have the hooks on it. This will give the wood a tapering effect that looks awesome. Once the board is sanded, decide if you want to apply a finish or paint to it. Let these dry before continuing. v The easiest hooks to go with simply screw into the board from the middle. Use a level to ensure that each of the screw holes will be even

for the cleanest effect. The hooks should all be evenly spaced, so use a measuring tape to check. Use your pencil to note where the screw will go quickly. Keep the pencil marks small enough that the screw will remove it all. This is your blueprint for screwing in each hook, and that’s all there is. Once they’re in, you have a coat rack.

Wooden Bench Tools v v v v v v v v

Wood glue. A Measuring tape. Three or four clamps. A saw. A sander and sandpaper. A hammer. A screwdriver. A pencil.

Material v v v v v v

8 boards cut to 2 x 2 x 3. 1-2 boards cut to 1 x 3 x 8. 2 pieces of 2 x 6 wood. 2 pieces of 2 x 4 wood. Nails. Screws.

Instructions: v We start by first purchasing our 2 x 2 x 3 boards. All eight of them

v

v

v

v

should be of the same wood. Place the boards adjacent to one another. This will be the seat of the bench. Choose the length of the seat that you desire, and then mark the boards accordingly. Cut all eight of the boards to the same length with your saw. If this is done correctly, all eight boards should be the same length when you lay them down next to each other again. If they are equal or nearly equal, you can move on to the following stage. You should trim them once more to get them closer to equality if they are not. Apply wood glue everywhere a board touches another board. The outside of the first board and eighth board don’t need to be glued. Instead, apply your clamps to these two boards to keep their night and tight while the glue dries. Remove the clamps and take the seat for measurement, sanding, and cutting. Sand the top and sides of the seat to create smooth edges. The underside of the seat isn’t very important, but you don’t want to sit on a splinter. Next, measure the sides of the seat. Cut your 1 x 3 x 8 boards accordingly. These pieces will go around the seat and create a frame effect, and it will help to keep everything together. Using your clamps to hold them in place, glue the sides on two at a time. Once the glue has dried, hammer a couple of nails into them to keep them securely fastened. Sand the pieces again so that the top of the bench is level with the frame. If you don’t, the frame will be very uncomfortable sitting on the bench. The legs of the bench are made by attaching a 2 x 4 to a 2 x 6. Begin first by measuring the 2 x 6 to determine how high you want the legs of the bench to be. Cut the wood to the measured height. Using wood glue and screws, attach the top of the leg to a piece of 2 x 4 wood. You want to create a ninety-degree angle by screwing through the flat part of the 2

x 6 into the thin part of the 2 x 4. When done correctly, the two pieces of wood form a ninety-degree angle so that when the leg stands, the 2 x 4 is pressed flat against the bottom of the bench. Repeat this step twice, making two legs. v Slather wood glue onto the top 2 x 4 and the bottom of the seat. Position the 2 x 4s at each other so that; they point toward the middle of the bench. Use at least six screws through the bottom of the 2 x 4 into the bottom of the seat to keep it securely fastened. Let the glue dry. When it has, place your bench down and see if it stands. If the legs aren’t thick enough, you may have issues. You can get around this by getting two more pieces of 2 x 4 and using them to create a wider base. Use glue and screws to attach the new pieces to the bottom of the bench’s legs to hold them in place a little better.

Angled Floating Bookshelves Materials v at least two 2-2.5 inch screws v Two to four nails, . Carpenter's glue — 75 pieces, each 1 inch long v A wooden post, about one inch thick, and as long as you need your shelf to be v A hollow rectangle of wood to act as your shelf. Only one side should be exposed, and the inside dimensions must line up with the posts. Steps Find the location where you want to put your shelf and determine the ideal

length. When deciding where to put your ideal shelf, keep the location of the studs in mind. Put the length in writing someplace. Create a wooden post by cutting one out if you don't already have one. You can trace your board with a straight edge and then cut it out with a bandsaw or circular saw. If you do not have your hollowed rectangle, create one. The wood used here should be thin, less than half an inch. Start by drawing two parallel rectangles with lengths equal to your post's measurement plus twice the width of the material you'll be using to make the shelf. The length should be between a foot and a foot and a half long. Next, trace out two more rectangles: your post's depth and the shelf's length. One last rectangle needs to be created, this one for the outside edge. Its length and width should be equal to your post's length and breadth, respectively, plus the width of the material used to make it. Glue these pieces together to create your shelf. You can use either a band saw or a circular saw because all these cuts will be straight. Using a hand-held electric drill, screw your post into the wall. When possible, only screw into the studs that will be the length of your shelf. If the shelf on one side is not held up by a stud, drill gently into the wall. Use a leveling tool to indicate that the hole you are drilling is level. Not where you mark with pencil where to put screws on the top of your post. Paint or stain your shelf, if desired. Once you've finished, press your shelf into the wall while holding it steady and dry-fitting it to your post. Make sure the wood fits tightly against the wall and check for flayed or improperly cut wood. Apply carpenter's glue to the shelves inside edge and the post it will rest on after removing it from the wall. Reinstall the shelf on the post and fasten it in

place with short nails.

Rustic Shelf Materials v v v v v

Planks/ Pallet Cords Driller Hooks Saw

Steps Measure the length of the planks used as the shelf’s surface. Cut the planks to the same size and level right to the ends. Mark where the holes for the attached cords will be and drill the holes. Pull the cord through the holes and secure the shelf with sailors’ knots under each shelf Coat Rack and Hat Rack Materials v v v v v v v v

Pallets, a hammer, and nails Stain Saw Screws Screwdriver Paint Sandpaper Hooks

Steps Decide how big your coat hanger is and cut the pallet down to this size. The wood should now sit flat against the wall without any backing, but the support boards should remain in place. Sand down the wood first, then paint it any color you want. Better colors are those that are more vivid. Add the hooks when the paint has had time to dry. The rack only needs a hanger attached to the back.

The Porch Swing Materials v v v v v v v v

Vertical boards of pallet wood or your choice of wood Basecoat and topcoat Screws Eyebolts Carabiners Nails and hammer 150-grit sandpaper Glue and nail gun

Steps Take wood pallets and cut them into vertical pieces to make a photo frame. After the wood has been cut, sand it with 150-grit paper. You can select the shape and design of your photo frame with a saw and fabricate all the needed parts for the swing. I include some gingerbread trim with the jigsaw on the top board of the backrest

Apply a base coat and, afterward, the topcoat. It is consistently simpler to paint the pieces before amassing them. Choosing white or brown paint will be good to give a unique touch to your photo frame. Making use of screws, construct the framing for the seats. Recall that the braces must have a shade since that is where the hanging instrument will be connected. Screw on another crosspiece in the seat to add steadiness and sturdiness to the braces. At that point, affix the braces individually with screws. The backrest is worked similarly to the seat. However, the upstanding pieces will extend underneath the seat to let you secure the seat and back pieces along with screws. Connect the upstanding pieces on the facade of the framing of the seat with screws. That is the place the armrests will be joined. Connect the backrest to the framing of the seat. Affix the armrests to the front upstanding piece and the backrest. Then, include the swing connectors: Drill gaps for eye bolts on the front and back bit of every one bit of the framing’s short sides. Connect the eye bolts. Measure and slice the chains to the ideal length using an angle grinder. Affix the chain in the eye bolts with carabiners.

Picture frame with two sides Methods for cutting joints v You can sketch out the frame sections for the base, the top, and the two sides after measuring both works of art, adding a proportional border or mat, and determining the overall dimension. v Use a drill press to rough the bases and top mortises.

v After cutting the stopped grooves in the top and bottom pieces, cut the through grooves on the two sides. v The grooves run through the mortise holes and are parallel to them. v Align the bottom and top of the four mortise holes. v A groove has been added to the top and bottom centered on the wide faces and ends at the square mortises. v The final structural step involves cutting tenons into the frame's side rails. v I used a large dado blade and one height setting on the table saw to cut the tenons. v The frame is simpler to put together thanks to the little slopes on the tops of the tenons. How to put together v Each component fit well but had an unattractive, bulky appearance while I was working out the initial design and the artwork and glass panes were in place. v To make it appear lighter, I crosscut an angle on either end and ripped a slope down the edges of the top and bottom. v After the joinery and beveling are finished, sand all the pieces to P220 grit, glue the sides to the bottom and wedge the tenons diagonally into the underside. v Sand the bottom flush after planning it. v Mark the locations where each tenon protrudes through the top of the frame with a knife while it is still unadorned and without the artwork or glass. v After removing the top, drill holes through the tenons, using shims to stabilize them while resting flat on the drill press table. v By offsetting the holes this way, I ensure that the hole covers the knife

marks by approximately a half-inch. Next, I shove dowels with a flat v

v v v v

sanded surface into the opening, pulling each item tightly. To produce two dowels, use a dowel plate and a piece of wood that is extremely durable and tightly grained, such as an apple, rock maple, dogwood, or hornbeam. Start with square stock and use a knife to bevel the end several times. Rounded ends make inserting the stock into the dowel plate easier. The stock is then hammered through the dowel plate. Cut the dowels to length after fitting them.

Coffee Table Tools v v v v v v v v v v v v

Drill Hot glue gun Paint or stain Chest or suitcase Staple gun Measuring tape Legs and Storage containers Top plate hardware Velvet or fabric Wallpaper Cording or trim Wooden dividers

Directions: v Sand the pallet woods and then paint them to complement the colors of

your chest. Carefully examine the chest and remove any torn fabric to give a neat look to your coffee table storage. v Measure the legs and then prepare all four legs to secure them in the right place. You can use a machine gun to fix nails and use wooden dividers to make small compartments. It will be good to decorate your wooden dividers with wallpaper.

Food Serving Cart on Wheels What You'll Need v v v v v

A pallet, and it doesn’t have to be very big Hammer and nails 4 wheels for the bottom Pain or varnish (your choice) Sandpaper

Directions: v Take a look at the below image of the basic structure turned upside down if you’re not sure about how to put this together. v You’ll need to take your pallet apart and use the pieces to craft this rolling cart “from scratch.” This makes it a good project to build with non-pallet wood if you have any or can’t find any pallets. v Put your top frame together, using two lengths of wood and joining them with two shorter pieces. To understand better, look at the illustration. v Using short lengths of pallet planks, create a top surface over this top frame. v Repeat the initial two steps to make the bottom storage surface.

v Use four lengths of wood to create the legs and attach everything. v At the bottom of the legs, attach your wheels. v Sand everything down, finish it and paint it (if you like).

Pallet Plank Shelf What You'll Need v v v v v v v v

Two pallet planks that are at least as long as you want the shelf to be A power saw (hand saw will do nicely for this project) Sandpaper Paint or varnish (your choice once again here) Wood screws Hooks for clothes hanging Tape measure Picture hangers

Directions: v Measure the wall where you wish to put your shelf (or hold the planks against the wall and mark where you’ll need to cut) v Cut both of your planks to the right length v Using your drill and the wood screws, attach the two planks in a 90-degree fashion, lengthwise (look at the finished image if you’re unsure of this step). Drill holes for your screws first to prevent the splitting of the wood. v Mark the locations where your hooks will go.If you don’t have real hooks, you can use anything of a similar shape, like cupboard knobs (see the image). You can place these evenly or however, you like.

v It's time to drill holes and install your hooks now that your holes have been indicated. v The screws or bolts you’ve used to attach the hooks might stick out of the back of the shelf. You can’t put it up on the wall like that, so you’ll need to (carefully) see the excess metal off at the back. Smooth this down with sandpaper so it won’t scratch your walls up. v Now, you can attach the picture hangers on the back of the shelf, spaced far enough to provide a lot of balance. You may get away with using some sturdy wire if you don't have these. v Make sure it will not break, and let the shelf drop. v As you would a large painting, you may now hang your shelf.

Indoor Pallet Swing Chair What you will Need: v v v v

Vertical boards of pallet wood Nails and hammer 150-grit sandpaper Glue and nail gun

Directions: v Take wood pallets into vertical pieces to make a photo frame. After the wood has been cut, sand it with 150-grit paper. v You can select the shape and design of your photo frame and fix all wooden boards with nails and a hammer v To prevent splitting the wood, pre-drill before screwing in. v Choosing white or brown paint will be good to give a unique touch to

your photo frame. The size of the pallet wood boards will be based on your requirement for a photo frame, and you can increase or decrease it as per your preferences.

Vase and other Decoration Pieces What you will Need: To make this vase, you need some small wood logs. Cut them into the proper size. The diameter should be 2 inches while the length can also be 1.5-2.5 inches, and keep the length the same. Directions: v Now get a vase or use some old bucket and join the logs using wood gum to secure the small logs. Now place some flowers of your desire in it. This wooden vase can be placed on the side table, and it’s also a good idea to use it for outdoor tables. v Now check the following wall-mounted design. This design is also good to go with, and you can start this simplest woodworking project to decorate your home walls. v Cut and arrange the wood as shown in the picture. Before mounting with the wall, use glass in the middle, as shown. This woodworking project will amazingly decorate your home's walls. So why don’t you try it?

Rustic Drinks Cooler If you’d like to learn to make your outdoor-style cooler that’s rustic and made

from pallets, this is the perfect project for you. You’ll only need one variety of saw for this build, making it great for people who have a limited number of tools. Once you wrap your head around the tutorial and have all of the required gear together, this project should take a day. What You'll Need: v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v

At least 5 pallets A power washer (if you can’t scrub the wood by hand) Dremel saw Your cooler of choice, of the right size, of course Impact drill Woodworking pencil (or a normal pencil) Measuring tape Screwdriver (flat head) Hammer Pliers Prying bar Wood screws (exterior type) Strong bond wood glue Bolts Hinges T-nuts Bore drill bit Bibb for hose Handle PVC coupling (some coolers won’t require this) A handle

Directions:

v Once you have your pallets, you will want to scrub them down or preferably use a power washer to get them nice and clean. The wood will come up very nicely if you use a power washer. v Remove the planks of wood from your pallets. Make sure you have enough to cover the sides of the cooler, with the planks running horizontally. v Take off the wheels, handles, latches, hinges from the cooler, and other hardware parts that will get in the way when you put them into the wooden structure you’ll be making next. v Your cooler is going to need four legs. Take 8 slats of wood (depending on how big yours are) and cut 32-inch length pieces. v Join 2 of your slacks together at 90 degrees length-wise with screws and glue. You prevent the wood from splitting, make sure to pre-drill before putting in screws. v Do this again, making two lips for the top lengths of your cooler. v Join the lips with two lengths of wood. v Measure the cooler’s height and determine how many wood planks you’ll need to make the sides. v To make a leg, join two lengths of wood at 90 degrees, as you did with the top lip. Make sure they’re long enough to go from the top of the cooler to the ground, past the base of the cooler. v You can join your top lip, side pieces, and legs, as in the image. v To make the lid, create two lips again, join them with short plank pieces, and use plank lengths to cover the top. v Attach the lid with your hinges, and you are good!

Wood Table Lamp

Materials v v v v v v v

sandpaper pencil, level (optional) wood palm sander (optional) drill saw (use if you desire to straighten the bottom and top of the wood) 3⁄8” x about 12″ to 18″ drill bit (length will vary depending on the height of the wood)

Steps Get any wood you can find to start building your light. From your garden to purchasing wood from online retailers, you can acquire it everywhere. I used a block of red cedar for my project. This one is rather triangular and has an uneven shape overall. You get to decide how your lamp will look, and your piece of wood will be different from the one I received. In my case, the shape was mostly what I liked, so I used a palm sander to sand it and only removed a small amount of bark to straighten the curve. I decided to use a hand saw to cut the smaller end because I prefer the bottom and top of the lamp to be more parallel. After that, a cut line is marked with a level. To accomplish this, draw a level line on the two sides of the wood. I hand-sawed the wood after cutting it, but if you have a band or table saw, the job would be much simpler for you, especially if your wood is a hardwood. I then drilled a hole through the wood for the lamp wire using a drill. The hole's diameter must be at least 3/8 inch. Use a vise or have someone hold it for you to stabilize it while drilling. To allow the wire to exit through the rear of the lamp, drill a second (3/8 inch)

hole through the back of the lamp and connect it to the first one. You can now apply wood stain or sealer after filling the gaps. Install the lamp fixtures lastly by following the instructions on your lamp kit.

Sofa Arm Tray Table Materials 1 - 2x4 3 - 1x4 NOTE: All board lengths are 8' long unless otherwise noted. v v v v v v

Pocket Hole Jig Miter Saw Pocket Hole Screws Polyurethane Pocket Hole Screws Wood Glue Pocket Hole Screws

Cut List v v v v v

6 Bottom Base Pieces measured at 3.5" x 18" 6 Top Table Pieces measured at 3.5" x 18" 2 Legs measured at 3.5" x 36" 2 Middle Cross Pieces measured at 3.5" x 13.5" 1 Middle Cross Piece measured at 3.5" x 10.5"

Steps Cut the legs from the 2 x 4 and make the two middle shorter cross pieces from the 1x 4Use a ruler or tape measure to mark 18" from the ends of the

legs, then attach these pieces with screws from the underside. In this project, pocket holes are only used in this one place. All other joinery can use 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch-sized dowels. Due of its enhanced aesthetic value, I prefer using dowels in joinery. The still a little too large center cross sections can be joined together using glue and clamps. You should let this dry for at least an hour, if not overnight. Once dried, you can use the drill to make holes for dowels. There are two on each side and three along the bottom. It is necessary to drill holes here. Once more, glue is used to join the bottom and top pieces of wood (1 x 4s as specified on our cut list). So. The wood should be cut or trimmed to be 18" × 18" in size. There should be a total of 5 (1x4s) glued together. The two components can be clamped together at the same moment. Drill for a half-dowel from the bottom and top, and carefully position yourself so that you can reach over the armrest of your choosing from both the bottom and top.

Reclaimed Wood Key Hanger Materials v Nails (I propose the rusty ones for your rack to have some style; however, if you are scared of having a tetanus virus, then you can tint the nail brown) (I recommend the rusty ones for your rack to have some style; however, if you are afraid of getting a tetanus virus, then you can color the nail brown)Varnish v Screws v Hooks

v Steel for the frame Steps It is made with tiny screws at the rear so that you won't be able to see them when you hang it on a door or wall. It is fantastic how the rusty nails are incorporated into the old house motif to give it a more timeless and natural appearance if you want to have one in your bedroom. The rack's varnish will prevent it from deteriorating quickly and improve its beauty at the same time.