The Rough Guide to Bolivia 2 (Rough Guide Travel Guides) [2 ed.] 1843538598, 9781843538592

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Small print and

Index

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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Published in 1982, the first Rough Guide – to Greece – was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. Mark Ellingham, a recent graduate in English from Bristol University, had been traveling in Greece the previous summer and couldn’t find the right guidebook. With a small group of friends he wrote his own guide, combining a highly contemporary, journalistic style with a thoroughly practical approach to travellers’ needs. The immediate success of the book spawned a series that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. And, in addition to impecunious backpackers, Rough Guides soon acquired a much broader and older readership that relished the guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach and value-formoney ethos.

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These days, Rough Guides include recommendations from shoestring to luxury and cover more than 200 destinations around the globe, including almost every country in the Americas and Europe, more than half of Africa and most of Asia and Australasia. Our ever-growing team of authors and photographers is spread all over the world, particularly in Europe, the USA and Australia.

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In the early 1990s, Rough Guides branched out of travel, with the publication of Rough Guides to World Music, Classical Music and the Internet. All three have become benchmark titles in their fields, spearheading the publication of a wide range of books under the Rough Guide name. Including the travel series, Rough Guides now number more than 350 titles, covering: phrasebooks, waterproof maps, music guides from Opera to Heavy Metal, reference works as diverse as Conspiracy Theories and Shakespeare, and popular culture books from iPods to Poker. Rough Guides also produce a series of more than 120 World Music CDs in partnership with World Music Network. Visit www.roughguides.com to see our latest publications. Rough Guide travel images are available for commercial licensing at www.roughguidespictures.com.

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Rough Guide credits Jessica Subramanian, Ankur Guha, Pradeep Thapliyal, Sachin Tanwar, Anita Singh Production: Vicky Baldwin Cartography: London Maxine Repath, Ed Wright, Katie Lloyd-Jones; Delhi Jai Prakash Mishra, Rajesh Chhibber, Ashutosh Bharti, Rajesh Mishra, Jasbir Sandhu, Karobi Gogoi, Amod Singh, Alakananda Bhattacharya, Swati Handoo Online: Narender Kumar, Rakesh Kumar, Amit Verma, Rahul Kumar, Ganesh Sharma, Debojit Borah Marketing & Publicity: London Liz Statham, Niki Hanmer, Louise Maher, Jess Carter, Vanessa Godden, Vivienne Watton, Anna Paynton, Rachel Sprackett; New York k Geoff Colquitt, Megan Kennedy, Katy Ball; Delhi Ragini Govind Manager India: Punita Singh Series Editor: Mark Ellingham Reference Director: Andrew Lockett Publishing Coordinator: Helen Phillips Publishing Director: Martin Dunford Commercial Manager: Gino Magnotta Managing Director: John Duhigg

Publishing information Cover concept by Peter Dyer. Typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original design by Henry Iles. Printed and bound in China. © James Read 2008 No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews. 456pp includes index A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-1-84353-859-2 The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Bolivia, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. 1 3 5 7 9 8 6 4 2

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This second edition published February 2008 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, USA 14 Local Shopping Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110017, India Distributed by the Penguin Group Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Penguin Group (USA) 375 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA Penguin Group (Australia) 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia Penguin Books Canada Ltd, 10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 1E4 Penguin Group (NZ) 67 Apollo Drive, Mairangi Bay, Auckland 1310, New Zealand

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Text editor: Anna Owens Layout: Nikhil Agarwal Cartography: Animesh Pathak Picture editor: Nicole Newman Production: Rebecca Short Proofreader: Jan McCann Cover design: Chloë Roberts Editorial: London Kate Berens, Claire Saunders, Ruth Blackmore, Alison Murchie, Karoline Densley, Andy Turner, Keith Drew, Edward Aves, Nikki Birrell, Alice Park, Sarah Eno, Lucy White, Jo Kirby, James Smart, Natasha Foges, Róisín Cameron, Emma Traynor, Emma Gibbs, Kathryn Lane, Joe Staines, Duncan Clark, Peter Buckley, Matthew Milton, Tracy Hopkins, Ruth Tidball; New York k Andrew Rosenberg, Steven Horak, AnneLise Sorensen, Amy Hegarty, April Isaacs, Ella Steim, Joseph Petta, Sean Mahoney; Delhi Madhavi Singh, Karen D'Souza Design & Pictures: London Scott Stickland, Dan May, Diana Jarvis, Mark Thomas, Sarah Cummins; Delhi Umesh Aggarwal, Ajay Verma,

Help us update We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the second edition of The Rough Guide to Bolivia is accurate and up to date. However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards. If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better.

Please send your comments with the subject line “Rough Guide Bolivia Update” to mail @roughguides.com, or by post to the address above. We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails. Have your questions answered and tell others about your trip at community.roughguides.com.

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Acknowledgements James Read would like to thank Till Bruckner for writing the Takesi and Yunga Cruz trail descriptions and Jan Fairley for the section on Bolivian music. Thanks to all those who provided help, encouragement, companionship and advice on the road in Bolivia, especially Alistair Matthew, Richard Beckett, Sarah Shields, Stone Slade, Daniela Mercado and Pablo Regalsky. At Rough Guides thanks to Anna Owens, Steve Horak, Andrew Rosenberg and all the other editorial staff involved. Special thanks to Emma Pearce for her support, advice and inspiration, without which this book would have been impossible. Dedicated with love to Freya and Iris – may we explore the forests and mountains of Bolivia together one day.

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Jen Foster For help and expert advice in Bolivia: Andres & Doriña at Andoriña hostel, Samaipata; Pieter and Marga at La Vispera, Samaipata; Maria and Gijs at Ruta Verde, Santa Cruz; All the staff at Jungle Bar Moskkito, Rurrenabaque; Peace Corps volunteers Willy Moore and Claire Bosch; Lauren at Jodanga hostel, Santa Cruz; all the staff of the Chalalan and San Miguel del Bala projects, Rurrenabaque. Back in the UK special thanks to James Savery, Rupert Nash, Line zu Ermgassen and Jon Gair.

Brendon Griffin Mil gracias to Freddy Lavayen for his valiant research efforts, expert driving and military efficiency in getting me up in the morning. Heartfelt thanks also to Yodi Lavayen for all his help, to Erika for putting up with the stress, Karen for medical assistance and great soup, Joe for his humour and Amanda for her kindness and hospitality – I couldn’t have done it all without you. Thanks to Jorge and Clori, Edith, Carlos and Tito in Cochabamba, and to Primo Godoy and family in La Paz. Thanks to Miriam in Oruro for the jersey, to Margarita Mujica for lending us her flat, Pierro in Copacabana, Sigrid in Coroico and Travis in Sorata. Ewan Rose would like to thank his incredibly understanding and supportive wife, Lauren, and his wonderful new daughter, Claudia. Thanks also to Juvenal Mamani Janco, Avria Rospillosa, Nicolas Iraizos and Sandra Garcia Quispe for their invaluable advice and assistance. The editor would like to thank James, Jen, Brendon and Ewan for their hard work updating this guide, as well as Nicole Newman, Maxine Repath, Nikhil Agarwal, Umesh Aggarwal, Animesh Pathak, Katie Lloyd-Jones, Diana Jarvis, Chloë Roberts, Emma Traynor, Roisin Cameron, Steve Horak, April Isaacs and Andrew Rosenberg.

Readers’ letters Thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write in with comments and suggestions (and apologies if we’ve inadvertently omitted or misspelt anyone’s name): Christopher Behr, Shanny Bolduc, Freddy Céspedes, Lee Cridland, Frederic de Keyser, Shahaf Du, Roger Eaton, Sabine Fauth, Camilla Freeth, Matthieu Fuzellier, Eddie Gerrard,

Edel Glynn, Matt Guest, Helen Jackson, Asger and Martine Lind Krebs, Pedro Novak, Holly Reiter, Inger-Sofie Selmer, Raquel Torrico and David Tryse.

Photo credits All photos © Rough Guides except the following:

Introduction Musicians at Carnaval, Sucre © Neil Emmerson/Robert Harding Lago Titicaca, Isla del Sol © Marc Schlossman/Getty Images Red and green macaw © Pete Oxford/FLPA Indigenous supporters of President Evo Morales at rally, La Paz © Magical Andes Photography A graminea plant growing near ice cliffs © Getty Images/National Geographic Alpaca © Pete Oxford/FLPA Painting of the golden Virgin of Guadalupe © South American Picture Library

Laguna Verde © Megapress/Alamy Bus on road to Chacaltaya © Sune Wendelboe/ Getty Images Man making cello in workshop in Urubicha © Christopher Pillitz/Getty Images Coca farmers, Chapare Province © Jorge Uzon/Corbis Chacaltaya © Eric Ghost/Alamy

Things not to miss 01 The Devil Dance, Oruro © Marco Simoni/ Robert Harding 02 View from summit, Huayna Potosi © Mark Chivers/Robert Harding

Selected images from our guidebooks are available for licensing from:

GDJ8IJG:H#8DB

Aymara Indian New Year © Martin Alipaz/epa/ Corbis Aymara Indians give an offering to Pachamama in Cumbre © David Mercado/Corbis Aymara priest © Aizar Raldes/AFP/Getty Images Ekeko © Aizar Raldes/AFP/Getty Images Devil mask, Carnaval, Oruro © Marco Simoni/ Robert Harding Blackened face of dancer, Oruro Carnaval © James Sparshatt/Axiom

Outdoors activities colour section Mountaineer exploring a crevasse in the Andes © Jerry Dodrill/Getty Images Backpacking high in the mountains © Corey Rich/Getty Images

Black and whites p.71 Dancers, Gran Poder, La Paz © James Sparshatt/Axiom p.92 Presidential Palace, Murillo Square, La Paz © Peter Adams/JAI/Corbis p.96 San Francisco church, La Paz © Magical Andes Photography p.111 Cholita selling fruit in street market, La Paz © Magical Andes Photography p.128 The World’s Most Dangerous Road © SouthAmerica Photos/Alamy p.135 Copacabana, Lago Titicaca © Charles Bowman/Robert Harding p.147 Sailing boat, Lago Titicaca © Magical Andes Photography p.163 Mountaineers in the Andes © Photonica/ Getty Images p.169 View of Coroico, Cerro Tikimani in background © Magical Andes Photography p.180 Kids playing soccer on salt flat © Getty Images/Aurora Creative p.184 Aerial view from Nevado Sajama © Getty Images/National Geographic p.199 View of the town of Cerro Rico © E. Simanor/Robert Harding p.207 Main courtyard, Royal Mint, Potosí © Magical Andes Photography p.225 Hot springs © Egmont Strigl/Alamy p.239 Tarija, Valle de la Concepcion © photolibrary p.250 Quechua Indians of the Cacachaka clan drinking chicha © Reuters/Corbis p.256 Traditional clothing at Carnaval, Sucre © Neil Emmerson/Robert Harding p.259 Cathedral and Plaza 25 de Mayo, Sucre © Magical Andes Photography p.280 Hats for sale, Cochabamba © Sybil Sassoon/Robert Harding p.287 Coca leaves, Chapare © David Mercado/ Reuters/Corbis p.294 Statue of Che Guevara, La Higuera © South American Picture Library p.318 The Altiplano © blickwinkel/Alamy p.336 Music school, Jesuit mission, San Jose de Chiquitos © Mark Chivers/Robert Harding p.339 Arco Iris waterfall in Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado © Pete Oxford/Nature Picture Library p.350 Group of black caiman © Magical Andes Photography p.366 High Beni river canyon, Parque Nacional Madidi © Luiz Claudio Marigo/nature picture library p.373 Indigenous child dances in Laja © Ho New/Reuters

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Ancient beliefs and modern mysticism colour section

Crossing a crevasse on Huayna Potosi © Mark Chivers/Robert Harding Altiplano 4WD excursion © World Pictures/Photoshot Giant water lilies, Amazon © Magical Andes Photography

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03 Tiwanaku stone figures © istockphoto 04 An Aymara woman weaving an aguayo shawl © South American Picture Library 05 Andean flamingo, Laguna Blanca © Pete Oxford/Robert Harding 06 River gorge, Sorata © photolibrary 07 La Paz © istockphoto 08 Miners, Cerro Rico © Keith Drew 09 Winter solstice ceremony in La Paz © David Mercado/Reuters/Corbis 10 Tupiza © Magical Andes Photography 11 Chicha © J. Marshall - Tribaleye Images/Alamy 12 Mountain biker on the World’s Most Dangerous Road © Getty Images/Aurora Creative 13 Salar de Uyuni © travel library 14 Andean condor © David Tipling/Nature Picture Library 15 Dancers at Carnival, Sucre © Neil Emmerson/Robert Harding 16 Lago Titicaca © istockphoto 17 Salteñas © Walter Morgenthaler/StockFood 18 Pink dolphin in the Amazon © Leonide Principe/Alamy 19 Stone carving, San Lorenzo church, Potosí © Magical Andes Photography 20 Trekkers on the Choro Trail © Magical Andes Photography 21 Stall in Witches Market, La Paz © Magical Andes Photography 22 Green frog, Parque Nacional Madidi © Marco Simoni/Robert Harding 23 Ekekos stall, Alasitas festival, La Paz © Magical Andes Photography 24 Sucre © Peter Adams/JAI/Corbis 25 Cordillera Apolobamba © Boris Breuer/Getty Images 26 Vehicle dressed up for the cha'lla © Marco Simoni/Robert Harding 27 Tinku © Reuters/Corbis 28 Chiquito Indio Jesuit mission church, Concepcion © Loetscher Chlaus/Alamy 29 Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado © Pablo Corral Vega/Corbis

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Index Map entries are in colour. r

A

INDE X

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accommodation ............. 38 Acha, José María.......... 399 Achacachi..................... 148 Acre War....................... 400 addresses ....................... 37 Afro-Bolivianos ............. 165 airlines ............................ 30 airport tax ....................... 27 Albergue Ecologico Chalalán..................... 375 Albergue Ecologico Mapajo ......................376 Almagro, Diego de........ 392 altitude sickness............. 54 Alto Peru....................... 393 Amazon, the ........ 351–385 & Outdoor activities colour section Amazon, the................. 352 Aniceto Arce ................. 400 Area Natural de Manejo Integrado Nacional Apoplobamba............ 158 Area Natural San Matías ........................ 343 Arroyo Concepción ...... 345 Ascensión de Gurayos ..................... 331 Atahualpa ..................... 392 ATMs............................... 64 Aymara ......................... 390 & Ancient beliefs and modern mysticism colour section

B Ballivián, José .............. 398 Banzer, Hugo................ 405 Barrientos, René........... 404 Belzu, Manuel Isidoro........................ 398 Beni, the ....................... 351 Bolívar, Simón .............. 397 booking flights online ..... 30 border crossings 450

from Argentina ......... 237, 347 from Brazil........ 308, 325, 383 from Chile................. 185, 224

from neighbouring countries ......................... 28 from Peru ......................... 141

Bosque Ecológico Apa-Apa....................177 Boyuibe ........................ 346 Brasiléia........................ 384 Buena Vista ......... 309–311 Buena Vista.................. 309 Busch, Germán ............ 402 Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid ............ 236

C Cachuela Esperanza .... 381 Cal Orko ....................... 266 Camiri ........................... 346 car rental ........................ 36 Caranavi ....................... 174 Castillo la Glorieta ........ 267 Caverna de Umajallanta................ 285 Cavernas del Repechón .................. 290 Central Obrera Boliviana (COB) ......................... 404 Cerro Rico .................... 198 Chacaltaya.................... 126 Chaco War.................... 402 Chaco, the........... 345–348 Chagas’ disease............. 54 Challa ........................... 145 Challapampa ................ 144 Challapata .................... 198 Chapare, the ....... 287–292 Chaqueri ....................... 282 charangos..................... 417 Charazani ..................... 159 Chimoré ........................ 291 Chipayas....................... 197 Chiquitos ............. 325–338 Chiquitos Missions Music Festival............ 329 Choro Trail .................... 166 Choro Trail.................... 166 Chulumani ........... 174–177 Chulumani.................... 176 Chusaqueri ................... 197 climbing .......................... 48 & Outdoor activities colour section

Cobija ........................... 383 coca................13, 407, 408 Coca ............................. 165 Cochabamba....... 269–278 Cochabamba ....... 272–273 Around Cochabamba .............279 accommodation ............... 271 arrival................................ 271 Cathedral.......................... 274 Colina San Sebastián....... 275 Cristo de la Concordia..... 276 eating and drinking .......... 276 information ....................... 271 La Cancha........................ 275 Mercado Inca Llajta ......... 276 moving on from................ 278 Museo Archeológico ........ 274 Palacio de los Portales......................... 276 Plaza de Septiembre........ 274 Water War ........................ 270

Colcha K....................... 228 Colchani ....................... 228 Colla ............................. 390 Collasuyo...................... 391 Concepción......... 327–330 Concepción ................. 328 Copacabana........ 133–140 Copacabana ................ 134 Cordillera Apolobamba..... 158–164 Cordillera Kari Kari ....... 220 Cordillera Real .... 149–158 & Outdoor activities colour section Coripata........................ 177 Coroico ........................ 168 Coroico ........................ 170 costs............................... 60 credit cards .................... 64 crime............................... 56 Curva ............................ 160 cycling ............................ 36

D Desaguadero ................ 141 Devil’s Railway.............. 380 disabled travellers .......... 60 drink................................ 43

E Eastern Lowlands .......... 295–348 Eastern Lowlands........ 296 eating.............................. 40 El Fuerte ....................... 317 El Ojo del Inca .............. 221 El Porvenir .................... 366 El Tío.....................194, 219 electricity ........................ 60 e-mail.............................. 62 embassies Bolivian abroad .................. 61 foreign (websites)............... 67

entry requirements ......... 60 Escoma......................... 149 Estrech de Tiquina ....... 133

from Australia and New Zealand .................. 28 from the UK and Ireland .... 27 from the USA and Canada ........................... 27 within Bolivia ...................... 31

Flor de Oro ................... 341 food ................................ 42 four-wheel-drive trips ....227 & Outdoor activities colour section

G Gacia Meza, Luis.......... 406 Gamarra, Agustín ......... 398 gay and lesbian travellers ...................... 59 Ginsberg, Rossi ............ 374 glossary ........................ 431

hacienda system .......... 400 health.............................. 52 Hito Villazón.................. 346 Horca del Inca .............. 139 hospitals ......................... 52 Huaca Huañusca.......... 237 Huanchaca Plateau....................... 339 Huarina ......................... 132 Huascar ........................ 392 Huatajata ...................... 132 Huayna Capac.............. 392

I immunizations ................ 52 Incallajta ....................... 283 Incarakay ...................... 282 Incas ............................. 390 Independence War ............................ 396 indiginous peoples...................... 361 insurance ........................ 61 Internet ........................... 62 Intinkala ........................ 140 Isla de la Luna .............. 147 Isla de Pescado............ 229 Isla del Sol........... 141–147 Isla del Sol ................... 142 Isla Kala Uta ................. 132 Isla Pariti....................... 132 Isla Suriqui.................... 132 Ivirgarzama ................... 291

J Jesuit missions of Chiquitos .......... 325–338

K Kallawayas.................... 160 Kasapata ...................... 144

L La Cumbre.................... 166 La Higuera .................... 324 La Paz .................... 71–126 Around La Paz ............... 74 Central La Paz ............... 84 La Paz ...................... 80–81 Sopocachi and Miraflores .................... 88 accommodation ................. 83 airport................................. 77 arrival.................................. 77 artesanía........................... 110 arts and entertainment..... 109 books and maps .............. 110 bus terminal ....................... 78 cafés................................. 103 Calle Sagárnaga................. 96 Cárcel de san Pedro ........ 100 Cathedral............................ 91 drinking ............................ 107 eating ............................... 103 Ekeko ................................. 97 El Alto............................... 102 El Prado ............................. 90 embassies and consulates .................... 112 Iglesia de San Francisco.... 95 information ......................... 79 La Chola Paceña................ 99 language schools............. 112 Mercado Buenos Aires................................ 98 Mercado de Hechicería...... 97 moving on ........................ 113 Museo Casa Murillo ........... 94 Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas........................ 94 Museo de Arte Sacro de la Catedral .......................... 91 Museo de Etnografía y Folklore ........................... 93 Museo de Instrumentos Musicals.......................... 95 Museo de la Coca.............. 98 Museo e Metales Preciosas ........................ 94 Museo Litoral ..................... 94 Museo Nacional de Arte .... 93 Museo Tambo Quirquincho .................... 99 nightlife............................. 107 Palacio Legislativo ............. 92 Palacio Presidencial........... 91 Plaza Murillo....................... 91 Plaza San Francisco .......... 95 Plaza Sucre ...................... 100 restaurants ....................... 104 Río Choqueyapu ................ 90 San Pedro Prison............. 100

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Far southwest.............. 226 Fawcett, Colonel Percy Harrison ..................... 376 Federación Sindical de Trabajadores Mineros de Bolivia (FSTMB) ......... 403 Federal Revolution ....... 401 Fiesta de la Virgen de Urkupiña .................... 281 Fiesta del Gran Poder .... 76 fiestas ............................. 45 & Ancient beliefs and modern mysticism colour section flights ............................. 27

H

Katarismo ..................... 408 Kusijata......................... 140

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F

Great Rebellion, the...... 395 Gruta de San Pedro ..... 158 Guajará-Mirim............... 381 Guaraní ......................... 346 Guayaramerín ............... 380 Guevara, Ernesto “Che” ................322, 405

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shopping .......................... 110 Sopocachi ........................ 100 tour operators .................. 114 transport............................. 79 Witches’ Market ................. 97 Zona Sur .......................... 102

INDE X

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La Rosca ...................... 401 Lago Poopó.................. 198 Lago Titicaca ...... 127–149 Lago Titicaca ............... 130 Lago Uru Uru................ 197 Laguna Colorada.......... 230 Laguna de San Idelfonso.................... 221 Laguna San Sebastián .. 221 Laguna Tajzara ............. 247 Laguna Verde ............... 231 Lagunillas ..................... 161 language....................... 423 language study............... 63 laundry............................ 62 Lechín, Juan ................. 403 Leishmaniasis ................. 54 Linares, José María ...... 399 Llama Chaqui ............... 286 Llanos de Moxos.......... 363 Loma Chuchuni ............ 360 Loma Suárez ................ 360 Los Fierros.................... 340 Lupaca.......................... 390

M Macha........................... 220 mail ................................. 63 malaria............................ 54 Mallasa ......................... 125 Manco Inca................... 392 maps............................... 63 markets........................... 41 media.............................. 44 Melgarejo, Mariano....... 399 Mennonites, the............ 338 mita............................... 391 money............................. 64 Morales, Evo................. 297 mountain biking.............. 48 Movimiento Nacionalista Revolutionario (MNR)......................... 403 Muela del Diablo .......... 125 music ............................ 416

N 452

national parks and reserves, see parks, national

national parks and reserves....................... 51 National Revolution ...... 403 newspapers .................... 44

O opening hours ................ 64 organized tours............... 37 Oruro.................... 186–196 Oruro ............................ 190 accommodation ............... 189 arrival and information ..... 189 Casa de Cultura Simón I Patiño............................ 191 eating and drinking .......... 195 Faro de Conchupata ........ 191 Museo Antropológico Eduardo López Rivas ... 194 Museo de Mineralógia ..... 194 Museo Etnográfico Minero........................... 193 Santuario del Socavón..... 191

Oruro Carnaval ............. 186 & Ancient beliefs and modern mysticism colour section outdoor activities............ 47 & Outdoor activities colour section

P Pacto MilitarCampesino ................ 405 Pampas del Yacuma .... 377 Pando ........................... 383 Pando, José Manuel .... 401 panpipes....................... 416 Pantanal, the ................ 343 Paraguay ...................... 346 Parinacota .................... 183 parks, national .............. 50 Amboró ............................ 311 Carrasco........................... 290 Cerro Tunari ..................... 280 Cotapata .......................... 166 Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco ........................... 345 Madidi .......................373–375 Noel Kempff Mercado...... 338 Otuquis............................. 343 Reserva Indígena Isiboro–Sécure.............. 363 Sajama ......................183–186 Torotoro.....................283–287

Parque Machia ............. 289 parques nacional see parks, national

Patacamaya.................. 185 Patiño, Simón .......192, 401 Paz Estenssoro, Víctor........................... 404 Paz Zamora, Jaime ...... 407 Pelechuco..................... 162 personal safety ............... 56 pharmacies..................... 52 phones............................ 65 photography ................... 66 police.............................. 56 Pomerata ...................... 183 Potosí................... 198–217 Potosí ........................... 204 accommodation ............... 203 arrival................................ 202 Casa Real de la Moneda......................... 206 Cathedral.......................... 206 churches .......................... 210 Convento-Museo Santa Teresa ........................... 211 eating and drinking .......... 216 fiestas............................... 200 history .............................. 200 Iglesia de Copacabana .... 215 Iglesia de Jerusalén ......... 214 Iglesia de la Merced......... 213 Iglesia de San Agustín ..... 213 Iglesia de San Benito....... 215 Iglesia de San Bernardo........................ 214 Iglesia de San Lorenzo de Carangas ................. 214 Iglesia de San Martín ....... 213 Iglesia de San Pedro........ 215 Iglesia de San Sebastián...................... 215 Iglesia de Santa Bárbara ......................... 215 Iglesia de Santa Monica.......................... 213 Iglesia de Santo Domingo ....................... 211 information ....................... 202 Ingenio San Marcos ......... 212 La Compañia.................... 209 La Ribera.......................... 215 mines................................ 201 moving on ........................ 217 Museo Universitario ......... 213 organized tours ................ 206 Plaza de Noviembre......... 205 shopping .......................... 217 Teatro Omiste................... 206 Virgen del Cerro ............... 208

public holidays ............... 64 Pucará .......................... 324 Puerto Acosta............... 149 Puerto Barrador............ 359 Puerto Suárez............... 343 Puerto Villaroel ............. 291 Pujjlay ........................... 269 Putina ........................... 161

Q Quebrada del Chura..... 324 quenas.......................... 416 Quijarro......................... 344 Quillacollo..................... 282

R radio ............................... 44 Reforma Agraria ........... 404 Reserva Biológica Cordillera del Sama ... 247 Reserva de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa............... 225–228 Reserva de la Biosfera del Beni ..................... 366 Reserva de la Biosfera y Territorio Indígena Pilon Lajas .......................... 376 Reserva Nacional Amazónica Manuripi Heath ......................... 385 restaurants...................... 40 Reyes............................ 378 Riberalta ....................... 378 Río Acre........................ 383 Río Beni ........................ 368 Río Coroico .................... 49 Río Ichilo....................... 291 Río Iteñez ..................... 341 Río Madre de Dios......... 378 Río Mamoré..........360, 380 Río Manuripi ................. 385 Río Quiquibey............... 375 Río Tipuani ................... 157 Río Tuichi................49, 374 Río Yacuma .................. 368 rubber boom................. 400 Rurrenabaque ..... 368–371 Rurrenabaque .............. 369

S Sajama village .............. 184 Salamanca, Daniel........ 401 Salar de Uyuni..... 225–231 Samaipata ........... 313–317 Samaipata.................... 314 San Borja...................... 367 San Ignacio de Moxos........................ 364 San Ignacio de Velasco ............. 331–333

San Ignacio de Velasco...................... 332 San Javier..................... 325 San José de Chiquitos ................... 336 San José de Uchupiamonas .......... 375 San Juancito ................ 333 San Lorenzo ................. 247 San Martín, José de ..... 397 San Matías ................... 334 San Miguel ................... 334 San Rafael .................... 335 San Silvestre................. 385 San Vicente .................. 237 Sánchez de Lozada, Gonzalo ..................... 407 Santa Ana..................... 335 Santa Cruz........... 297–307 Santa Cruz ................... 300 accommodation ............... 299 arrival................................ 298 Biocentro Gu/embé.......... 303 Cathedral.......................... 302 drinking and nighlife......... 305 eating ............................... 304 information ....................... 299 Manzana........................... 302 moving on from................ 307 Museo de Arte Contemporaneo............ 302 Museo de Arte Sacro....... 302 Museo de Historia Natural Noel Kempff Mercado ... 303 Museo Etnofolklórico ....... 303 Plaza de Septiembre........ 302

Santa Cruz, Andrés de ...398 Santa Rosa................... 377 Savannas...................... 364 Shinaota ....................... 290 Sicuani.......................... 141 Siles, Hernán ................ 404 Simón Patiño ........192, 401 Sipe Sipe ...................... 282 skiing .............................. 49 Sol de Mañana ............. 231 Sorata .................. 153–158 Sorata........................... 154 soroche........................... 54 Southern Altiplano............ 181–248 Southern Altiplano....... 182 Spanish Conquest........ 392 Suárez, Nicolás ............ 382 Suárez, Roberto ........... 382 Sucre.................... 253–266 Sucre ............................ 255 accommodation ............... 257 arrival................................ 254 Casa de la Libertad.......... 258 Cathedral.......................... 259

Chuquisaca ...............253–266 Convento-Museo La Recoleta ................. 262 eating and drinking .......... 264 fiestas............................... 254 Iglesia de la Merced......... 260 Iglesia de San Felipe Neri ............................... 260 Iglesia de San Francisco... 263 Iglesia de San Lázaro ...... 261 Iglesia de San Miguel....... 263 Iglesia de Santa Mónica ........................... 263 Iglesia de Santo Domingo ....................... 261 information ....................... 254 La Cancha........................ 275 La Plata .....................253–266 moving on ........................ 266 Museo de Arte Indigena .... 261 Museo Eclesiastico .......... 259 Museo Universitario Charcas ........................ 260 Museo-Convento Santa Clara ............................. 261 Plaza de Mayo ................. 258 university.......................... 263

Sucre, Antonio José de............................... 397 Sucre, Cochabamba and the central valleys .... 252 Sukakullos .................... 119

T Takesi Trail .................... 151 Takesi Trail ................... 151 Tarabuco....................... 268 Tarapaya ....................... 221 Tarija .................... 238–245 Tarija............................. 242 accommodation ............... 241 arrival................................ 241 bodegas ........................... 246 eating and drinking .......... 244 fiestas............................... 240 fossils ............................... 246 information ....................... 241 Museo Paleontológico ..... 243 vineyards.......................... 246

telephone codes............. 66 telephones...................... 65 television ........................ 45 theft ................................ 56 time................................. 66 Tinku............................. 220 Titicachi ........................ 141 Tiwanaku ..... 118–124, 389 Tiwanaku...................... 120 Toledo, Francisco ......... 394 Tomatitas ...................... 247

453

Torotoro ........................ 283 Torotoro Canyon........... 285 Torotoro village ............. 284 Torres, Juan José ......... 405 Totora ........................... 283 tour operators.......... 30, 114 tourist card ..................... 61 tourist information .......... 66 Trans-Apolobamba Trek ............................ 162 transport ......................... 31 boats .................................. 36 buses ................................. 32 cars .................................... 36 lorries ................................. 35 micros ................................ 34 moto-taxis.......................... 34 taxis.................................... 34 trains .................................. 35

INDE X

|

travel agents................... 30 travel insurance .............. 61 traveller's cheques ......... 64 trekking........................... 47 & Outdoor activities colour section Trinidad................ 354–359 Trinidad ........................ 356 accommodation ............... 356 arrival................................ 355 eating ............................... 357 information ....................... 356 organized tours ................ 358

Túpac Amaru II ............. 395 Túpac Katari ................. 396 Tupiza .................. 231–235 Tupiza........................... 232

454

U Ulla Ulla ........................ 161 Unduavi ........................ 168 Uyuni.................... 221–224 Uyuni ............................ 222

V Valle Alto....................... 279 Valle de la Luna ............ 125 Vallegrande ......... 320–324 Villa Tunari .................... 288 Villamontes ................... 346 Villaroel, Gualberto ....... 403 Villazón ......................... 237 Virgen de Copacabana .............. 133 visas ............................... 60 Volcán Licancabur ........ 231 Volcán Sajama.............. 183 volunteering.................... 62

W War of the Pacific ......... 399 water............................... 52 websites ......................... 67 whitewater rafting........... 49 Wiñay marka................. 132 women travellers ............ 59

work................................ 62 World’s Most Dangerous Road .......................... 167 & Outdoor activities colour section

Y Yacuiba......................... 347 Yampupata ................... 141 Yolosa ........................... 168 Yucumo ........................ 368 Yumani.......................... 146 Yungas, the ......... 164–178 Yunga Cruz Trail ........... 152 Yunga Cruz Trail........... 151

Z Zarate Willka, Pablo ..... 401

Map symbols maps are listed in the full index using colored text

M AP SY MB O LS

| 455

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