The First Epistle to Timothy: The Second Epistle to Timothy 0900000000, 0824501284, 9780824501280

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View A

View B

Archer Button Up S t y l e N u m b e r 11 0 0 4 | S i z e s 1 4 – 3 2 D - C u p | I n t e r m e d i a t e

Table of Contents

grainlinestudio.com

Pattern Details Preparation Measurements Design Elements Pattern Inventory Cutting Instructions Glossary

2 2 3 4 5 6 8 22

Pattern Details The Archer is a loosely fitted button up shirt with slightly dropped shoulders and long sleeves. View A has a traditional box pleat at the back yoke and angled cuffs while View B has a gathered lower back detail and straight cuffs. Techniques involved include sewing a straight seam, sewing darts, setting sleeves, creating continuous button plackets, adding a shirt collar, and inserting buttons and buttonholes.

Suggested Fabrics Light to medium-weight woven fabrics ranging from, silk chiffon, charmeuse, crepe de chine, rayon, cotton shirting, poplin, chambray, lightweight denim, and flannel. Extra fabric may be needed to match plaids, stripes, or one-way print designs.

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Notions Thread (1) – ⅜" Button (8) – ½" Buttons

Preparation Pre-Wash all your fabrics. Be sure to use the same method you intend to clean your garment with when finished. This will prevent the possibility of your garment shrinking after its first wash. Read through all the instructions. Sometimes surprises are good, but when sewing they usually aren’t. Gather your supplies. Make sure you have all the fabric, thread, interfacing and notions required for your garment, as well as any tools you may need such as a sewing machine, scissors, pins, and rulers. Print pattern according to the instructions included in the Printing Instructions file. Find your size. Select your size based on the size chart and cut out all pattern pieces. Since all sizes are nested you can easily blend between sizes as needed. If you are between sizes we recommend choosing the larger size. If you do make any changes to the pattern, be sure to make them to all your pattern pieces.

2

Measurements This pattern is drafted for a D sewing cup size and a height of 5'5" Body Measurements (Inches) (Centimeters) Size Bust

Waist

Hip

14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 101.6 106.6 111.7 116.8 121.9 127 132 137.1 142.2 35 37 39 41 43 45 47 49 33 83.8 88.9 93.9 99 104.1 109.2 114.3 119.3 124.4 43 45 47 49 51 53 55 57 59 109.2 114.3 119.3 124.4 129.5 134.6 139.7 144.7 149.8

32 58 147.3 51 129.5 61 154.9

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

45" (114 cm) Wide Fabric Required (Yards) (Meters) View A

3⅓

3⅓

3⅓

3⅓

3⅓

3½

3½

3½

View B

3⅝

3⅝

3⅝

3⅝

3⅝

3⅝

3⅝

45" fabric cannot be used for View B sizes 28-32 due to width restrictions.

3.1

3.3

3.1

3.3

3.1

3.3

3.1

3.3

3.1

3.3

3.2 3.4

3.2 3.4

3.2

3⅝

3.3

3⅝

3.4

54" (137 cm) Wide Fabric Required (Yards) (Meters) View A

3¼

3¼

3¼

3¼

3¼

3¼

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

View B

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

3 1/2

2.9 3.1

2.9

3.1

3

3.2

3

3.2

3

3.2

3

3.2

3

3.2

3.1

3.2

3.1

3.2

3.1

3.2

1 yard (1 meter) of 22 – 25" (55 – 65 cm) Wide Fusible Interfacing Finished Garment Measurements (Inches) (Centimeters) Bust

Waist Hip View A Hip View B Body Length Bicep

Sleeve Length

3

129.5 134.6 139.7 144.7 149.8 154.9

51

53

55

57

59

61

160

165.1 170.1 175.2

50 ¼

52 ¼

54 ¼

56 ¼

62 ¼

64 ¼

127.6

132.7

137.7

143.1

58 ¼

147.9

60 ¼

51

53

55

57

59

61

57

59

61

65

67

153

129.5 134.6 139.7 144.7 149.8 154.9 144.7 149.8 154.9

63

160

63

158.1 63

160 69

165.1 170.1 175.2

65

163.1 65

67

69

66 ¼ 68 ¼

168.2 173.3 67

69

73

75

165.1 170.1 175.2 71

180

185.4 190.5

29 ⅜ 29 ⅜ 29 1/2 29 1/2 29 ⅝ 29 ¾

74.6

74.6

74.6

74.9

75.2

29 ⅞

75.8

30

76.2

30 ⅛ 30 ¼

16 ¼

16 ¾

17 ¼

17 ¾

18 ¼ 18 ¾

19 1/2

20

20 1/2

41.2

42.5

43.8

45

46.3

75.5 47.6

49.5

50.8

76.5 76.8 52

21

53.3

22 ¼ 22 ¼ 22 ⅜ 22 ⅜ 22 ⅜ 22 1/2 22 1/2 22 1/2 22 ⅝ 22 ⅝

56.5

56.5

56.8

56.8

56.8

57.1

57.1

57.1

57.4 57.4

Design Elements

Yoke Seam Sits Forward on Shoulder

Collar with Collar Stand

Topstitched Yoke Seam

Back Yoke

Center Back Pleat Breast Pockets Bust Darts

Loose Fit Through Body

Full Length Sleeves

Continuous Sleeve Placket

Pleats at Cuff

Button Cuff Closure

Cuffs Angled Cuff

Length Hits Mid-hip

Turned & Stitched Hems

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Button Placket Closure

View A

Yoke Seam Sits Forward on Shoulder

Topstitched Yoke Seam

Collar with Collar Stand

Back Yoke

Breast Pockets Bust Darts

Loose Fit Through Body

Full Length Sleeves

Gathered Back Panel Pleats at Cuff

Cuffs Length Hits Mid-hip

Back Hits at Low Hip

Button Placket Closure

View B

4

Straight Cuff

Continuous Sleeve Placket Button Cuff Closure Turned & Stitched Hems

Pattern Inventory

6 1

2

4

5 7

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

3 8

9

12

10

13

11

14

15 16

1. Left Front

9. Yoke

2. Right Front

10. Upper Collar

3. Right Front Button Band

11. Under Collar

4. Left Front Button Band Interfacing

12. Collar Stand

5. Back: View A

13. Sleeve Placket

6. Upper Back: View B

14. Cuff: View A

7. Lower Back: View B

15. Cuff: View B

8. Sleeve

16. Pocket

5

Cutting Lay out the pattern pieces on your fabric according to the following cutting layout diagrams. Fabric should be folded selvage to selvage with right side facing out. Using a marking pen or pencil, trace each piece making sure to transfer all pattern markings to your fabric as well. Mark the center front and back of each piece placed on the fold with a notch. This will help you align things later on. When cutting, cut away the lines you traced on the fabric and don’t forget to clip your notches! Fabric & Pattern Key

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Fabric Right Side

Fabric Wrong Side

Interfacing Pattern Right Side

Pattern Wrong Side

45" (114 cm) Wide Main Fabric Layout | View A | All Sizes

8 2 Please note: Only one of piece 3 is needed.

3

13

11

14

16 8

1 5

Cut with Fabric Flat

9

9

10

12 12

Cut with Fabric Folded

45" (114 cm) Wide Main Fabric Layout | View B | All Sizes

2

Please note: Only one of piece 3 is needed.

3

15

16

13

8 11 1 6

Cut with Fabric Flat

6

9

Cut with Fabric Folded

9

10

12 12

7

54" (137 cm) Wide Main Fabric Layout | View A | All Sizes 3

2

14 13

11 8

16

1 5

9

Cut with Fabric Flat

9

10

12 12

Cut with Fabric Folded

54" (137 cm) Wide Main Fabric Layout | View B | All Sizes

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

3

2

13

11 16

15

8

1 6

Cut with Fabric Flat

9

7

12 12

22 – 25" (55 – 65 cm) Wide Interfacing Layout | View B | All Sizes

10

10

12

12

14

10

Cut with Fabric Folded

22 – 25" (55 – 65 cm) Wide Interfacing Layout | View A | All Sizes

7

9

14

15

15

3

3

4

4

Instructions

Seam Allowance: All seam allowances are ½" with the exception of the pockets and sleeve plackets, which are ¼". Need Help? Check out our photo and video lessons on our blog! grainlinestudio.com/pages/archer-sew-along

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Instructions: All Views Step 1 Apply interfacing to the appropriate pieces according to the pressing instructions included with your fusible. Refer to the illustration in this step to make sure you’ve interfaced everything correctly.

View A 1

10 4

3

On the wrong side of the left front, position the left front button band interfacing 1" from the center front edge, between the button band fold line notches.

12 14 14

View B 1

10 4

3

12 15 15

8

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 2 To create the left front button band, fold and press the center front edge over to the wrong side along the first set of notches, 1" from the edge. Fold and press again along the second set of notches and edgestitch the free folded edge in place.

Step 3 With wrong sides together, fold the right front button band in half along the notched fold line and press. Unfold and align the notched edge of the button band to the center front edge of the right front with right sides together. Sew and grade seam allowance.

Step 4 Press button band and seam allowance away from the bodice front. Fold the button band to the wrong side along the pre-pressed fold line. Fold and press the seam allowance under, making sure the folded edge just covers the stitching line you made while attaching the button band in Step 3.

9

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 5 With the right side facing up at your machine, edgestitch the free folded edge in place. Stitch another line down the outer edge of the button band the same distance from the edge as your previous stitching line.

Step 6 To sew the dart, fold one of the fronts with right sides together and align the dart leg notches. Stitch a straight line from the dart leg notches to the dart point. Finish the dart seam allowance and press towards the hem. Secure the dart by basting along the side seam, within the seam allowance. Repeat for the other front.

Step 7 Fold the top edge of the pockets down along the first set of notches and press. Fold and press again along the second set of notches, then edgestitch the free folded edge in place. Press the raw edges of the pockets to the wrong side using a ¼" seam allowance.

10

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 8 Align the corners of the pockets with the pocket placement match points, keeping the centermost edge of the pocket parallel to the center front of the shirt. Edgestitch the pockets in place. For added security you can optionally stitch a small triangle into the upper corners of the pocket.

Tip: Pinning the pocket in place over a pressing ham can help ensure the shirt underneath the pocket stays wrinkle free.

Instructions: View A

Step 9 With the wrong side of the back facing up, fold the box pleat at the top edge by bringing the two outside notches in to meet at the center back. Baste pleat in place within the seam allowance.

11

Instructions: View B

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 10 Prepare the lower back to be gathered by placing two rows of basting stitches between the outer notches ⅜" and ⅝" from the cut edge, leaving thread tails at both ends.

Step 11 With right sides together, align the lower back to the upper back matching ends and notches. Gather the lower back to fit the shirt and pin. Sew and remove basting threads. Finish seam allowance and press towards upper back. You can optionally topstitch along the seam line to keep the seam allowance in place.

Instructions: All Views Step 12 Align the lower edge of one yoke to the upper edge of the back. The wrong side of the back should be facing the right side of the yoke. Stitch the two together within the seam allowance.

12

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 13 Turn the back over so that the right side is facing up. Align the other yoke across the top with right sides together and stitch along the top edge, through all layers, using the ½" seam allowance.

Step 14 Grade the seam allowance into thirds as follows, then press the yokes up, away from the back. 1. Leave the inner yoke seam allowance full width. 2. Trim the body seam allowance to ¼". 3. Trim the seam allowance of the outer yoke down to ⅛".

Step 15 Lay the fronts out with the wrong side facing up and place the back over top of them with the right side facing up. Align the shoulder seams of the fronts and inner yoke. Stitch across the shoulders within the ½" seam allowance.

Step 16 Flip the garment so the front is right side up and roll the body up into a tight tube, revealing the unsewn yoke below. Pull the shoulder seams of the unsewn yoke around the rolled fabric and align them with the shoulders of the other yoke and body. Stitch across the shoulders using your ½" seam allowance. Grade the seam allowances as you did in Step 14.

13

1 2 3

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 17 Pull the rolled garment out through the neck and press the shoulder seams. Baste the two yoke layers together at the neckline and armholes. Edgestitch along the shoulder yoke seams and topstitch along the back yoke seam.

Step 18 With right sides together, sew the two under collar pieces together at the center back, matching edges and notches. Press seam allowance open.

Step 19 Align the upper collar and under collar with right sides together, matching sides and unnotched edge. Sew, grade seam allowances, and clip corners. Turn collar right side out and press, making sure the seam line rolls towards the under collar. Baste across the lower edge anchoring the upper and under collars together, then edgestitch along the three finished edges.

14

Step 20 Align the interfaced collar stand with the under collar, right sides together, matching notches and center point. Baste the two layers together.

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

With right sides together, pin the other collar stand to the upper collar and collar stand. The collar will be sandwiched between the two collar stands. Sew along the curved edge through all layers. Grade seam allowance down to ⅛" along the curved edges and grade normally along the straight. Turn right side out and press.

Step 21 With the right side of the shirt facing up, align the interfaced collar stand to the neck edge. Match the ends of the collar with the edges of the shirt, and align the notches. Sew from end to end. Clip the seam allowance to, but not through, the stitching line approximately every ½".

Step 22 To finish the ends of the collar stand, start by laying your shirt out with the right side facing up. Fold the free collar stand down, revealing the other collar stand and seam allowance. Next, bring the free collar stand around the button band, to the inside of the garment, and align the raw neckline edges of both collar stands. Move the collar and button band out of the way to ensure a flat seam and pin in place. Starting at the center front seam line, stitch along the neckline seam of the collar stands for approximately 1 – 1 1/2". Trim corners, turn right side out, and press.

Yoke

Collar

Non-Interfaced Collar Stand

Stitching Line

15

Need Help? For full video instruction of the collar steps, please see our tutorial here: www.bit.ly/archer-collar

Step 24 To insert the sleeve plackets, begin by reinforcing the stitching line of the placket opening. Start stitching ¼" from the cut line at the cuff edge, narrowing to within a thread width of the cut line at the pivot point, then continue back out to ¼" at the other edge. Cut to, but not through, the pivot point.

Pivot Point

Cut Line

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 23 Fold the seam allowance of the unsewn portion of the collar stand under and slipstitch in place. Then edgestitch around all edges of the collar stand.

Step 25 Spread the placket opening and, with right sides together, align the reinforced stitching line with the ¼" seam allowance of the placket, and sew the two together from end to end, making sure to catch the sleeve at the center of the seam.

16

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 26 Press the placket and seam allowance away from the sleeve, then lay the sleeve out with the wrong side facing up. Fold the ¼" seam allowance of the placket to the wrong side and press. Fold the placket again to meet the seam line and press, then stitch in place.

Step 27 With the right sides of the sleeve together, fold the placket in half aligning edges and ends. Stitch diagonally across the top of the placket starting at the seam line from the previous step, down over to the folded edge.

Step 28 Fold the front edge of the placket to the wrong side of the sleeve and press. The back edge of the placket will remain flat. With the sleeve facing right side out, fold the two knife pleats at the cuff edge following the directional arrows indicated on the pattern piece. Baste along the lower edge of the sleeve to secure the pleats and folded placket in place.

17

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Step 29 Place two lines of basting stitches along the sleeve cap at ⅜" and ⅝" from the cut edge, between the front and back armhole notches. Leave thread tails at each end.

Step 30 Align the edges and notches of the sleeve and armhole with right sides together. To ease the sleeve cap ino the armhole, gather excess fabric between the notches by pulling on the thread tails. Sew, remove basting threads, and finish seams. Lightly press seam allowance towards sleeve. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Step 31 Align the side seams and underarms with right sides together matching edges, underarm seams, and notches. Sew from the hem edge, through the underarm, to the sleeve hem edge. Finish your seam allowances and press towards the back of the shirt.

18

Step 32 Press your cuffs in half along the fold line with wrong sides together. Open the cuffs back up and fold the seam allowance of the unnotched edge to the wrong side and press.

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

View A

View B

Step 33 With right sides together, pin the unfolded edge of the cuff to the sleeve matching cuff notches with pleats. The ends of the cuff will extend 1/2" beyond the finished edge of the plackets. Sew, then press the cuff and seam allowance away from the sleeve. View A

View B

View A

View B

View A

View B

Step 34 With right sides together, fold the cuff in half. Sew the ends of the cuff together and trim the corners.

Step 35 Turn the cuff right side out and press. Slipstitch the unsewn portion of the cuff in place. If you would like to topstitch or edgesitch your cuff do that now.

19

Step 36 Hem your shirt by pressing the hem edge up ¼", then ¼" again, and then stitching down the free folded edge.

Step 37 Insert vertical buttonholes for the ½" buttons on the right side of the button placket using the markings on your pattern as your guide. Use the buttonholes you just made to mark the button placement on the left button placket and attach buttons.

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Insert a horizontal buttonhole for your ⅜" button on the right side of the collar stand — the front end of the buttonhole should align with the buttonholes on your button placket. Use the buttonhole you just made to mark the button placement on the left collar stand and attach the button. On each cuff, insert horizontal buttonholes for the remaining two ½" buttons using the placement markings on the pattern as your guide. Then attach the buttons, this time using the button placement markings on the pattern as your guide.

20

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

That's it, you're done! Give your garment a final press and wear it out!

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21

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Glossary Baste means to sew with a longer stitch length than you would normally use in order to temporarily hold two or more pieces of fabric together. You can baste either by hand or machine. Clip is a snip of the fabric to, but not through, the stitching line of an inward curve. This allows the seam allowance to spread over the length of the seam line and lay flat when pressed. Easing is the act of making a longer piece of fabric fit a smaller piece. When easing, the seam should be smooth with no tucks or gathers.

Archer Button Up 14 – 32

Edgestitch refers to a line of stitching approximately ⅛" away from a folded edge or seam line of a garment. Finish Seam refers to treating a seam after it is sewn so that it doesn’t unravel or fray. Examples of finishing a seam include trimming with pinking shears, serging, or using a method that encloses the seam itself such as a bound, French, or flatfelled seam. Grade Seam or “grading” is done to reduce bulk in the seams. To grade your seam, trim away half of the seam allowance that will fall closest to the garment when pressed. Grain Line refers to the lengthwise grain of the fabric, which runs parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Align the grain line printed on each pattern parallel to the selvage to ensure proper fit and drape of your finished garment. Main refers to the main fabric of your garment.

22

Notch can be one of two things. First, notch can refer to a mark on the pattern used to correctly line up pattern pieces. These can either be clipped into the seam allowance (be sure not to notch more than halfway into your seam allowance), or a small triangle can be cut extending out from the seam allowance. Second, a notch can be a small triangle cut into the seam allowance. Used on outward curves, a notch eliminates excess fabric, allowing your seam to lay flat. When notching a seam allowance, be sure to cut to, but not through, the stitching line. Right Side & Wrong Side The right side of your fabric will face the outside of the garment and the wrong side of your fabric will face to the inside when your garment is completed. Selvage is the woven finished edge of the fabric, which runs the length of the fabric. It is created when the fabric is woven on a loom and runs parallel to the lengthwise grain. Slipstitch is a hand sewing technique that invisibly closes a seam. For a tutorial on how to slipstitch, visit our website: www.grainlinestudio.com/blogs/ how-to-hand-sew-a-slip-stitch Topstitch refers to a type of stitch, usually a straight stitch, done along a seam line or garment edge that is meant to give a crisp edge and highlight details.

All designs, illustrations, images, text, and all other aspects of this pattern are ©Grainline Studio, LLC 2022. This pattern is for personal use only and no part of this product may be reproduced, transmitted, or shared in any form. Items from this pattern may not be produced for resale. All rights reserved.