The Art of Lamination II: Mastering the Art and Craft of Laminated Pastry

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The Art of Lamination II

Mastering the Art and Craft of Laminated Pastry

A Collection of Methods, Science, Common Sense and Recipes for Culinary Students, Bakers, and Pastry Chefs of all Skill Levels

Jimmy Griffin BarnaCaf Publications

What readers are saying about the Art of Lamination #1 Gaby Z - 5.0 out of 5 stars Amazing book. A truly amazing book. The bible of lamination, I should say. This is the go-to if you want anything lamination related: from the one who wants to do it at home all the way to the professional who wants to better his/her technique and learn an overwhelming number of new techniques. Also, I should say that this book had one of the quickest shipping I've ever seen.

Tony Brewin - 5.0 out of 5 stars - The best money can buy. I’ve had this nook for a good few months now, and well placed to leave an objective view. I’m a chef, caterer, and chef lecturer of some 40-odd years. I do not “write gushy reviews. Jimmy Griffin is an expert in his field; this much is clear. He produces superclass work and is at the top of “his game,” that said, the detail, the time, the effort, the man has made to impart his lifetime's work is truly bewildering. This is not a “casual throw a book together effort” it’s very serious, incredibly detailed information that the most basic “learner” will benefit from, up to and including those.... who think they are good. Do I have anything negative to report? No. Not a single item. On top of it all, Jimmy participates in various well-known social media platforms. The generosity the man shows in sharing his vast experience is well-known and highly respected.

Two Ladd's Bakery - 5.0 out of 5 stars Complexity of Lamination. Master Chef Griffin, I am so very grateful for this book! Not only for myself but for those who are dedicated to being magnets for success in lamination. I can’t wait for your book on bread to come up. I recommend this Amazing Source to everybody who is struggling to understand the complexity of lamination and who wants to find out more about lamination... The Art of Lamination is a gem in the baking world.

M Wong - 5.0 out of 5 stars- Looking to perfect croissants? look no further. Terrific book if you’re a professional pastry chef or keen home baker. It’s very detailed and helped me achieve these croissants through good understanding and technique. I hope those who read this book will find it helpful. For a baker to take his time dedicating himself to writing this book and passing down years of knowledge is unselfishly brilliant.

Adam Newey, The Hill Bakery 5.0 out of 5 stars-My lamination bible. What a fantastic book. I've been making croissants & pain au choc in my bakery for several years, but being mostly self-taught, have sometimes struggled and become utterly frustrated when things go wrong - as they can so often do with such a complex and painstaking process. I've lost count of the batches of dough that have ended up in the bin through tearing and melting! This brilliant book has helped me identify what mistakes I've been making and, crucially, understand *why* things go wrong. It's clear, concise, thoroughly researched and an absolute mine of information for all things laminated. Thank you, Jimmy!

Sold already in 135 countries/regions globally. Available in three formats 1. eBook 2. Paperback 3. Hardcover Copyright © 2023 by Jimmy Griffin. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, transmitted, or stored digitally or otherwise, in any manner, including photocopying, recording, and imaging, without written permission of BarnaCaf Enterprises Ltd. For permission to reprint material, contact Jimmy Griffin at [email protected]. When quoting material under fair use exemptions, please use the following citation: Griffin, J. (2023). The Art of Lamination II. Mastering the Art and Craft of Laminated Pastry

BarnaCaf Enterprises Ltd.

On requests from clients about using lower quality ingredients to make Croissants “You cannot build a Ferrari from Fiat spare parts” - Jimmy Griffin 2016

Published by BarnaCaf Enterprises Ltd. Wild Winds, Forramoyle West Barna, Co Galway Ireland. H91 XHY7

Website: http://jimmyg.ie YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/c/JimmyGriffinbaking/ Instagram: @jimmyg51

Second edition April 2023

eBook edition

Page | 1

Table of Contents

Table of Contents The Art of Lamination II ........................................................................................................ 0 Table of Contents .................................................................................................................... 2 Table of Contents ....................................................................................................................... 2 Table of Tables .......................................................................................................................... 9 Glossary Of Terms and Abbreviations .................................................................................... 10 Foreword ................................................................................................................................ 11 Dedications ............................................................................................................................ 12 Influences in My Professional Life .......................................................................................... 12 Acknowledgements .............................................................................................................. 13 Section 1 Knowledge and Lessons 1 − 8 ............................................................................. 15 Abstract .................................................................................................................................... 15 A Brief History of The Croissant from the 17th century ......................................................... 16 Anatomy of a Croissant ........................................................................................................... 17 Overview and Hacks for Laminated Pastry Making ................................................................ 18 The 22 Stages of Laminated Pastry Production and Handling ................................................ 19 Types of Flour Used in Artisan Baking in America And Europe ............................................ 19 A Guide to Flour Comparison Worldwide............................................................................... 20 Ingredient Choices Used in Great Pastry Making.................................................................... 22 Other Ingredients in The Pastry ............................................................................................... 22 Water ........................................................................................................................................ 22 Liquid Levain ........................................................................................................................... 22 Yeast-an Overview................................................................................................................... 22 Fresh Yeast............................................................................................................................... 23 Instant Yeast............................................................................................................................. 23 Active Dry Yeast...................................................................................................................... 23 Sugar ........................................................................................................................................ 24 Salt ........................................................................................................................................... 24 Malt Powder or Liquid Barley Malt......................................................................................... 24 Butter Used in The Dough ....................................................................................................... 24 Page | 2

Pâté Fermentée ......................................................................................................................... 24 Lamination Butter Used During Coupe Du Monde Chocolatine (CDMC) − Lescure ............ 24 Chocolate Sticks Valrhona Used During CDMC .................................................................... 24 Eggwash ................................................................................................................................... 25 Butter Making an Understanding of the Process ..................................................................... 25 Understanding The Butter ........................................................................................................ 28 Butter Components .................................................................................................................. 30 Dough Mixing and Good Things to Know About Different Mixers ....................................... 32 Planetary/Stand Mixers ............................................................................................................ 32 Two Speed Spiral Mixers with Impeller Bar ........................................................................... 32 Single Speed Spiral No Impeller Bar ....................................................................................... 32 Twin Arm/Fork Mixers ............................................................................................................ 33 Desired Dough Temperature .................................................................................................... 34 Base Temperature Calculation ................................................................................................. 35 Friction Factor .......................................................................................................................... 36 Understanding the Dough ........................................................................................................ 37 Maintaining Sourdough Starter ................................................................................................ 38 Proofing Pastry at Work and in The Home .............................................................................. 38 Baking Using Different Oven Types ....................................................................................... 40 How Pastry Rises During Baking ............................................................................................ 43 The Bakers’ Percentage Explained .......................................................................................... 44 Core Temperature and Chilling Pastry Using Ice Blankets ..................................................... 46 Understanding Core Temperature in Proofing Pastry .............................................................. 48 Recipes Used in This Publication ............................................................................................ 49 Processing Factors ................................................................................................................... 49 How To Prepare a Butter Block On My YouTube Channel .................................................... 50 Lock-In and Lamination Numbering System .......................................................................... 50 Dough Touching Points/Dough Contact Points ....................................................................... 51 Terms Used in Various Culinary Books when Making Laminated Pastry .............................. 51 Some Points of Note on The Lock-In: ..................................................................................... 52 Keeping Count of The Number of Folds Made on The Pastry ................................................ 53 The Universal Numbering System ........................................................................................... 53 Counting the Fat Layers ........................................................................................................... 54 Simple Multiplication System.................................................................................................. 55 Inverse Pastry Layers ............................................................................................................... 56 Pastry-Making Systems Discussion ......................................................................................... 58 Lock-in and Understanding the Lock-in .................................................................................. 58 1st Sheeting .............................................................................................................................. 59 Page | 3

1st Folding/Pleating ................................................................................................................. 60 2nd Sheeting............................................................................................................................. 60 2nd Folding/Pleating ................................................................................................................ 61 Finished Pastry Block .............................................................................................................. 61 3rd and Final Sheeting ............................................................................................................. 61 Finished Pastry ......................................................................................................................... 61 The Need to Rotate Pastry Through 90 ° On Each New Sheeting Fold .................................. 62 Dough and Butter Block Sizes ................................................................................................. 62 1st Sheeting Size and 4−fold: .................................................................................................. 63 2nd Sheeting Size and 3−fold: ................................................................................................. 63 3-4-3 System Process Overview .............................................................................................. 64 Production of Laminated Croissant Pastry − Sample Recipe .................................................. 65 Dough Stage ............................................................................................................................. 65 Pastry Sheeters and Settings .................................................................................................... 66 The RS101 Manual Sheeter ..................................................................................................... 67 Pre-Lock-In 3-4-3 Pastry Height Discussion ........................................................................... 68 Lock-In and First 4-Fold Sheeting Settings Overview ............................................................ 68 The 3 − Fold Sheeting Settings ................................................................................................ 69 Final Sheeting Settings 3-4-3 ................................................................................................... 70 Cutting The Belly Of The Pastry to Ease Elastic Recoil ......................................................... 70 Overview of topic covered in discussions to this point ........................................................... 71 Useful Rules of Thumb for Recipe Formulation ..................................................................... 71 Flour Considerations ................................................................................................................ 72 Butter Considerations............................................................................................................... 72 Salt Considerations .................................................................................................................. 73 Sugar Considerations ............................................................................................................... 73 Hydration Considerations ........................................................................................................ 73 The Effect of Reduced or Excess Layering ............................................................................. 74 Preparing to Cut the Croissant The triangles ........................................................................... 74 To Cut or to Roll the Croissant The triangles? ........................................................................ 75 Shaping/Coiling Sequence ....................................................................................................... 76 The Effect of Stretching the Triangle ...................................................................................... 78 Baking Croissants .................................................................................................................... 79 Basic Foundation Recipes ........................................................................................................ 79 1. Croissant 3-3-3 ..................................................................................................................... 80 2. Croissant 3-4-3 ..................................................................................................................... 82 3. Chocolatine 3-4-4 − Pain au Chocolat ................................................................................. 84 4. Croissant 3-3-3 / 3 ................................................................................................................ 86 Page | 4

5. Croissant Extra Large 5-4-3 ................................................................................................. 88 Lesson #1 the 3-4-3 system...................................................................................................... 90 Pros And Cons Of Pastry Made On This System: ................................................................... 90 Process Method 3-4-3 .............................................................................................................. 90 The Lock-In 3 .......................................................................................................................... 90 The 4-Fold or Book Turn ......................................................................................................... 92 The 3-Fold ................................................................................................................................ 93 Lesson #2 The 5-4-3 System.................................................................................................... 94 Pros and Cons of Pastry Made With This System ................................................................... 94 Process Method 5-4-3 .............................................................................................................. 94 The 5 Lock-In .......................................................................................................................... 94 The 4-Fold ................................................................................................................................ 95 Process Procedure The 4−fold ................................................................................................. 95 Layer Calculation Example After Subtraction Of DTP 4-Fold ............................................... 97 The 3-Fold ................................................................................................................................ 97 The Final Stage is The Sheeting Stage .................................................................................... 98 Lesson #3 The 3-4-4 System.................................................................................................... 98 The Lock-in 3 ........................................................................................................................... 98 The 1st 4−fold .......................................................................................................................... 99 The 2nd and Final Fold In The 3-4-4 System .......................................................................... 99 The Sheeting Process ............................................................................................................. 100 Pastry Cutting Diagram Sample no Waste – 500g Flour Base Recipe .................................. 100 Lesson #4 the 3-3-3 / 3 system .............................................................................................. 101 Pros And Cons Of Pastry Made With This System: .............................................................. 101 Lock-in 3 ................................................................................................................................ 101 The Lock−in 3 Using Coloured Butter .................................................................................. 102 The Lock-in and First 3−Fold (3-3) ....................................................................................... 102 The Second 3-Fold (3-3-3)..................................................................................................... 103 The Third and Final 3-Fold (3-3-3 / 3) .................................................................................. 103 Recap lock in and first trifold ................................................................................................ 103 Overview of the 3-3-3-3 System, Lock-In, Sheeting and First Trifold ................................. 103 The Lock In 5 Series of Layering .......................................................................................... 104 The Lock In 3 Series Of Layering ......................................................................................... 104 Processing Notes Recap for The Lamination 3-3-3 / -3 ........................................................ 105 Lesson # 4, the 5 – 6 System.................................................................................................. 106 Layer Perfection ..................................................................................................................... 108 Lesson #5 Croissant Bicolor 3-4-3 ........................................................................................ 109 6. Croissant Bicolor Chocolate .............................................................................................. 111 7. Christmas Red Bicolor Croissant ....................................................................................... 113 Page | 5

8. Two Colour Bicolor 3-4-3 ................................................................................................. 116 Lesson #6 Twin Lamination 3-3-3 ......................................................................................... 119 9. Twin Lamination 3-3-3 × 2 ............................................................................................... 120 Recap on Chocolate Flavoured Butter for Twin Lamination................................................. 122 Base Recipes for Croissant Pastry Production ....................................................................... 122 Lesson #7 Triple Laminated Pastry 3–4 ................................................................................ 123 10. Triple Lamination Recipe ................................................................................................ 124 Recommended Layering for Different Pastry Sizes/Weight ................................................. 125 Processing the Pastry − Rolling Out the Croissants .............................................................. 125 Croissant and Chocolatine Cutting Guide Table ................................................................... 125 Croissant and Pain au Chocolate Cutting Table .................................................................... 126 11. Eggwash in Recipes and Proofing ................................................................................... 126 Baking Temperature Factors .................................................................................................. 127 After Baking − Care of Pastry ............................................................................................... 128 Section 2 Other Recipes and Techniques ......................................................................... 129 12. Cranberry Custard Twists 3-4-3....................................................................................... 130 13. Blitz Croissant Pastry....................................................................................................... 132 14. Erica’s Ultimate Portuguese Custard Tart ....................................................................... 134 15. Bears Claws ..................................................................................................................... 136 16. Once Baked Almond Croissant ........................................................................................ 138 17. Rum Syrup Recipe ........................................................................................................... 139 18. Almond Cream Recipe ..................................................................................................... 139 19. Almond Croissant Twice Baked ...................................................................................... 139 Lesson # 8 Cross-Lamination ................................................................................................ 140 20. Pain Suisse Cross Lamination .......................................................................................... 143 21. Four Colour Cross Lamination ........................................................................................ 145 Viennoiserie Using Sourdough .............................................................................................. 150 22. Making Liquid Sourdough ............................................................................................... 151 23. Making Sourdough Pastry Process .................................................................................. 156 24. 100% Sourdough Croissant.............................................................................................. 158 25. Hybrid Croissant 20% Sourdough and Yeast .................................................................. 160 26. Hand Laminated Croissant 50% Preferment & Sourdough ............................................. 162 Section 3 - Puff Pastry ........................................................................................................... 167 27. Sweet Puff Paste Palmiers 3-4-4 / 4 – 129 Layers ........................................................... 168 28. Apple Turnovers .............................................................................................................. 172 29. Apple Compote ................................................................................................................ 172 Page | 6

30. Savoury Puff Paste 3-4-4 / 4 – 129 Layers ...................................................................... 174 31. Sausage Rolls Made with Savoury Puff Pastry 3-4-4 / 4 - 129 layers ............................. 176 32. Veggie Rolls with Savoury Puff Paste 3-4-4 /4 – 129 Layers ......................................... 178 Inverse Puff Pastry Preparations ............................................................................................ 180 Preparing to make Galette Des Rois 3-4-4-3 – 97 Layers ..................................................... 180 33. Galette Des Rois Inverse Puff Paste 3 / 4 / 4 / 3 – 97 layers ........................................... 181 34. Crème Pâtissière for Frangipane Filling .......................................................................... 182 35. Frangipane for Galette Des Rois ...................................................................................... 183 36. Sugar Glaze for Galette Pastry ......................................................................................... 184 37. Blitz or Quick Puff Pastry Recipe 3-3 / 3-3 /3 ................................................................. 186 38. Extra Flaky Puff Paste 3-3-3 / 3-3 - 163 Layers .............................................................. 187 39. Quiche Gruyere Cheese and Onion with Puff Pastry 3-3-3 / 3-3 .................................... 188 40. Mince Pies 3-3-3 / 3-3...................................................................................................... 189 Section 4 – Pain Raisin and Cinnamon Swirls....................................................................... 191 41. Pain Aux Raisins 3-4-3 .................................................................................................... 191 42. Cinnamon Swirls 3-4-3 .................................................................................................... 194 Section 5 Experimental Gluten Free ...................................................................................... 196 43. Gluten-Free Flour Recipe ................................................................................................ 198 44. Gluten-Free Croissant Recipe 3-4 / 4 -33 layers .............................................................. 199 45. Gluten-Free Pain au Chocolate 3-4 / 3 / 3 - 73 layers ...................................................... 201 46. Gluten-Free Pain aux Myrtle 3-4 / 4 / - 33 layers ............................................................ 204 47. Gluten-Free Cranberry Custard Coconut Twists 3-3 / 3 / 3 ............................................. 206 Section 6 - Vegan Croissant Pastry ........................................................................................ 208 48. Vegetarian/Vegan Croissant Using Flora Plant Butter .................................................... 209 49. Vegetarian/Vegan Chocolatine with Flora Plant Butter .................................................. 211 Section 7 - Spelt, Wholemeal and Inverse ............................................................................. 213 50. 80/20 Spelt Chocolatine 3-4-4 ......................................................................................... 214 51. Craig’s Wholemeal Croissant .......................................................................................... 216 52. Inverse Croissant Recipe 5-4-3 ........................................................................................ 218 Section 8 - Enriched Pastry & Brioche .................................................................................. 220 53. Brioche Dough ................................................................................................................. 221 54. Chocolate Brioche Dough ................................................................................................ 222 55. Raspberry Brioche Sablée ................................................................................................ 224 56. Ingredients: Sablée au Sucre Filling ................................................................................ 224 57. Danish Pastry ................................................................................................................... 226 58. Kouign Amann 3-4-3 ....................................................................................................... 229 Page | 7

59. Laminated Brioche ........................................................................................................... 232 60. Flavoured Butter .............................................................................................................. 235 61. Chocolate Butter Twists................................................................................................... 236 Section 9 Cube Croissant ....................................................................................................... 238 62. Cube Croissant Large - 10 cm ......................................................................................... 239 63. Cube Croissant Pistacio Mactha − Small 8 cm ................................................................ 241 64. Cube Croissant Red Bicolor............................................................................................. 243 65. Deep Purple - Forest Fruits Cube Bicolor........................................................................ 245 Section 10 Modern Viennoiserie ........................................................................................... 246 66. Nutella Cruffin Style Pastry 3-4-3 – 25 Layers ............................................................... 246 67. Suprême - Style Pastry ..................................................................................................... 249 68. Ganache Recipes .............................................................................................................. 252 69. Christmas Tree Green Croissant ...................................................................................... 253 70. Raspberry Pear Marinade 3-4-4 ....................................................................................... 256 71. Crème Pâtissière Recipe Galette Des Rois ...................................................................... 257 72. Praline-Orange Chocolate Bar and Buble Sugar ............................................................. 260 73. The Praline-Orange Chocolatine...................................................................................... 261 74. Tropical Storm 3-4-4........................................................................................................ 263 75. Coconut Crème Pâtissserie: ............................................................................................. 264 76. Green Bicolor Raspberry Jelly 3-4-3 ............................................................................... 265 77. Raspberry Jelly Pieces ..................................................................................................... 265 78. Other Fruit Jelly Recipes ................................................................................................. 268 79. Green Bicolor Pineapple Pinwheel 3-4-3 ........................................................................ 269 80. Black Salt Salted Caramel Triangle 3-4-3 ....................................................................... 271 81. Black Salt Salted Caramel Filling .................................................................................... 273 82. Buffalo Mozzarella Swirl ................................................................................................. 274 83. Buffalo Mozzarella Spicy Veggie Filling ........................................................................ 275 Section 11 Improvers and Frozen Process ............................................................................. 278 84. Croissant with 1% Bread Improver 3-4-3 ........................................................................ 278 Frozen/Frozen Pre-Proofed Croissants and Viennoiserie ...................................................... 279 85. Frozen Croissant Unproofed / Proofed 3-4-3................................................................... 280 Cryogenic Freezing ................................................................................................................ 282 86. Pre Proofed Frozen Croissant with Improvers 3-3 / 3 /3 ................................................. 283 Croissant History from my Masters Dissertation 2016.......................................................... 285 The Croissant in French Literature ........................................................................................ 286 Page | 8

Croissant Twentieth Century to Present Day ................................................................. 286 Section 12 Managing Trimmings/Waste .......................................................................... 289 Incorporating Trimmings Into a Block of Pastry ................................................................... 289 Adding Trimmings Into The Dough Mix............................................................................... 290 87. Base Recipe 0% Trimmings............................................................................................. 291 88. Base Croissant with 5% Trimmings ................................................................................ 292 89. Base Croissant with 10% Trimmings .............................................................................. 292 90. Base Croissant with 15% Trimmings .............................................................................. 293 91. Base Croissant with 20% Trimmings .............................................................................. 294 92. Base Croissant with 25% Trimmings .............................................................................. 294 93. Base Croissant with 30% Trimmings .............................................................................. 295 Summary ................................................................................................................................ 295 Common Faults in Pastry Making ......................................................................................... 296 References .............................................................................................................................. 301 The Art of Lamination Index ................................................................................................. 305

Table of Tables Table 1: Flour types comparison table (Doves Farm, 2020) ..................................... 21 Table 2: Flour types, ash and protein content (Weekendbakery.com, 2020) ......... 21 Table 3: Common pastry making faults ................................................................... 296

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Glossary Of Terms and Abbreviations Beurrage

Preparation/plasticising butter prior to lamination

BT

Base Temperature

BTP

Butter Touching Points

CDM

Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie – World Cup of Bakery

CDMC

Coupe du Monde Chocolatine – World Cup of Chocolatine

Core temperature

The temperature at the centre or core of a pastry/block of pastry

DDT

Desired Dough Temperature

DTP

Dough Touching Points

Inverse Lock-in

Locking the dough component inside butter sheets

IR

Infrared thermometer

Lamination number

A number given to the number of folds given to the pastry

Lock-in

Placing butter between layers of dough to begin the lamination

RH

Relative Humidity

RT

Room Temperature

Sheeting

Rolling pastry out thin to fold or cut

WT

Water Temperature

Page | 10

Foreword

I have written this detailed book as the ultimate reference in global laminated pastry. Each product has a photo, a recipe with baker's percentage and process detail. The layout enables the reader to make the product without the need to keep flicking back pages looking for recipes and methods. Each recipe is a mini chapter with all the detail required to make the pastry. Fillings are the exception, and I have numbered all the recipes, so they are easier to find than page numbers. I have tried to keep each recipe to two pages, but some more complex ones required much more writing. Many new topics, science, process, and a look at some modern creations are included in this book, alongside some classics. Every recipe has been tried and evaluated, including my breakthrough Gluten Free recipe, which took two years to develop. I showcased the Gluten-Free lamination at my classes in the Creative Culinaire Academy, Singapore, for the first time in April 2023. Making high-quality laminated yeasted pastry requires

many

capabilities:

knowledge,

skill,

understanding, technical ability, procedure, precision, patience, and practice, among other things. Passion is the greatest of all of these. The reward for producing excellent pastry is the satisfaction it brings to its creator and the consumers who delight in this creation repeatedly. I hope to stimulate your creativity with the photos and techniques in my book, to give you lots of ideas to create, to imagine, and the knowledge to execute these ideas for your creations. In March 2022, I set up a FaceBook group page titled The Art of Lamination and Laminated Pastry with Jimmy Griffin. Presently the membership is veering towards 30,000 followers and has members from over 120 countries. It continues to grow weekly and is an excellent online resource. Jimmy Griffin, President, Coupe Du Monde de la Boulangerie/World Cup of Baking, Paris 2016.

Page | 11

Dedications

I dedicate this book to my beloved family, my wife Bogna, my rock and soulmate, my son Dillon and daughters Janice and Sophie. I love you all very much and could not have finished this book without your support. I also want to thank my mum-in-law, Dobrochna, for her support and encouragement. She always believed in me and gave me great feedback on my work. My dear aunt Olive has also been a wonderful support to us all. Love you, guys.

Influences in My Professional Life There are so many other people, too, whom I am thankful to, and I would have to draft another book to mention them all. I want to thank my global bakery family, whose friendships have endured and their influences on me through creativity and passion. Derek O’ Brien, my friend and mentor, retired Head of the National Bakery School Kevin Street, Dublin; retired Head of Diploma in German Baking course at Akademie Deutsches Bäckerhandwerk Weinheim, Germany and Director of the Baking Academy of Ireland, Dublin. Over the years, my former Irish bakery team colleagues: Tommy, Frank, Paul, Gemma, Robert, Michelle, and Dolores. Dr Frank Cullen has always fully supported me in my work at TU Dublin as a lecturer and inspired me to write and think academically. His successor, Dr Denise ‘O Leary, for her support and kindness, Mike O’Connor, and my fellow lecturers at TU Dublin always encourage my work. I want to thank my dear friend Paul, Kelly, who keeps me sane weekly and has been exceedingly kind to me these past few years. My dear friend Christian Vabret, creator of Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, has believed in me and honoured me with my appointment of being a juror at world events for two decades. Christian made it possible for me to meet, watch, observe and learn from the world’s best bakers. His opportunities have inspired me, and I have made life-long friends through his kindness. Finally, special thanks to Kathryn Gordon of ICE, NY, Dr Ted Lynch, and Allen Cohn for their proof reading and advice assistance over the years. Many thanks to you all.

Page | 12

Acknowledgements

About the Author Jimmy Griffin is a sixth-generation master baker from Galway, Ireland. He has forty years of experience in the industry, growing up in the family bakery business. Jimmy is a specialist in viennoiserie, sourdough, bread, and cake production. He holds a Masters’ degree in Food Product Development and Culinary Innovation and lectures to honours degree bakery students at the School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology at Technological University Dublin, located in Grangegorman, Dublin, Ireland. The University has 30,000+ students and over 6,500 academic staff and technicians. He also works as an advisor and consultant to the industry. Jimmy grew up being competitive and, as an apprentice, won many national bakery competitions. Later in his career, he represented Ireland and competed in the European Championships as the viennoiserie candidate three times, winning bronze at the Coupe D’ Europe de la Boulangerie 1997. He went on to coach the highly successful Irish bakery team from 2002 until 2005. Jimmy has also been an international bakery jury member since 2001 for most of the world championships and world master’s competitions, the bakery Olympics of the industry. Jury work has taken him to the UK, USA, South America, Africa, Asia, Russia, and most European countries. In 2016, Jimmy was appointed president of the Jury at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris. During his holidays from university, he regularly lectures overseas. Jimmy has taught in the UK, Europe, the USA, Brazil, and Asia. During the Covid pandemic, he gave online classes to students in USA and Trinidad. He taught lamination masterclasses in Singapore in April 2023 and will be in Japan over the summer of 2023, where he will deliver classes in five cities to almost 5000 students. He has been involved with baking and world-class competitions on most continents. In 2015, he was conferred as an Honorary Professor at Stavropol University in Russia. In May 2019, he came out of competitive retirement to compete in the Coupe du Monde Chocolatine in Toulouse, France, taking the silver medal for his creations in hand-laminated pastry. He is active on social media platforms and regularly updates his pages with exciting recipes, procedures, and innovative products. Married to his wife Bogna, Jimmy has three children, Dillon (26), Janice (25) and Sophie (17) (2023). In addition to his test-baking passion, Jimmy speaks four languages and is a licenced fixedwing pilot, an aerobatic pilot, and a seaplane pilot. He is currently completing a FI or Flight Page | 13

Instructor rating and will be licenced to train fixed-wing pilots in 2023. Jimmy is also a former judo blackbelt instructor, a divemaster and a former marathon runner. He enjoys writing; his honours degree dissertation, "An investigative study into the beneficial use of seaweed in bread and the broader food industry,” has been viewed and downloaded over 6,000 times. Jimmy translated The Art of Lamination into Spanish, titled El Arte del Laminado, in 2021. He published several other books; The Global Master Bakers Cookbook was a collaboration which features internationally acclaimed bakers. His other books are Family Secrets – Part 1 1876-2019, recipes of many favourite products made in Griffins Bakery over the years, and Panettone The King of Bread. His sixth book, The Art of Lamination II, contains new recipes, photos, and formats. Jimmy had two brothers: Mark lives with his family in London, and David, formerly in Malta. Sadly, during the Covid pandemic, David died suddenly, aged 57 years. We will always remember him in our hearts and our minds. Sleep in peace, David.

Honorary Professor of Bakery and Pastry Arts, Stavropol University, Russia 2015 With Janice and Bogna Griffin ©2023 Jimmy Griffin. All rights reserved. Page | 14

Section 1 Knowledge and Lessons 1 − 8

This book was originally written in 2020 during the global lockdown when the Covid-19 virus shut down the world and its economy. The Art of Lamination II was written as an educational reference book in twelve sections. Section 1 includes detailed information about pastry make up and baking that will help less experienced bakers successfully navigate the recipes in this book. There are eight main lamination lessons in the book. While some readers may find the content repetitive, it is a great teaching method, re-enforcing the learning objectives and the numerical terminology. Essentially, it is designed to help and assist students of pastry making in remembering the how and the why of making laminated pastry. I use only metric measures in this book—all the recipe ingredients are listed in grams—because they are the most exact. Using metric measures also allows recipes to be made smaller or scaled up for mass production easily. All book baking temperatures are in degrees Celsius (℃). (You can easily find temperature conversion calculators online.) Many recipes also include optimal temperatures for making consistent dough and pastry. A detailed photograph, method and sequence accompany each recipe. A list of online resources from my YouTube channel is presented as an appendix to help you navigate this book's many diverse and different pastries. Some may feel that there is repetition in the book. The repetition is intentional as it reinforces the learning objectives and understanding of pastry making from beginners to professionals and heightens process awareness. Abstract Internationally, there are as many terms for the folds and types of folds used when laminating pastry as there are languages. In the USA, they refer to letter fold, envelope, or double fold. In Ireland and the UK, it is a book fold, a half-fold, a single fold, a fold-over etc. Then to add further confusion, pastry can be described as made by the English method, the French method, the blitz method, the inverse butter method, the Dutch method, the German method, and the Scotch method! It can all become very baffling, especially when translated into a dozen different languages. Page | 15

However, one common denominator encompasses this process, and that is a numerical solution to the language barriers. Many of the world’s top bakers now communicate lamination techniques by describing the folds as a number instead of a name. My colleague Peter Yuen, a noted world lamination specialist credited with popularising his method, has taught this system worldwide. This system is truly international, and I explain in detail the correct use of this numbering system in this book. Additionally, having reviewed countless textbooks on the subject, my teaching and jury work experience seeks out many gaps in Viennoiserie education to all white art practitioners. This work provides a scientific and straightforward explanation of many finer points of producing great laminated pastry.

A Brief History of The Croissant from the 17th century The croissant’s birth was a series of evolutionary steps that began with the kipferl/kipfel form, shared in Austria and Germanic baking at the time, and the invention of flaky, laminated pastry. Budapest’s Hungarian bakers first fashioned the croissant to signify and celebrate the liberation of their beloved city from the Turkish army in 1686 CIA (2016). However, in August, Zang and the French Croissant Chevallier (2009) contradicted this CIA version of events. The Austrian bakers in Vienna were under siege in 1683 by the Turkish invaders who invented the croissant Chevallier (2009:9). The legend recounts that Viennese bakers in 1683, while at work early in the morning, heard the Turkish army digging under Vienna’s walls. They alerted their army commanders, and the Turks were routed. The croissant was created to celebrate the liberation of Vienna. Its shape and name resulted from the crescent moon, symbolising Turkish tyranny. The French and Italian bakers soon followed their Viennese counterparts. They included this crescent pastry as part of their daily mantra. In its original classical form, the croissant was quite different from today’s creation as it was made using puff paste with lard and milk, a laminated dough devoid of yeast.

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When you have mastered puff pastry, you will find it such a satisfying and splendid accomplishment that you will bless yourself for every moment you spend learning the techniques. Labensky, Sarah, R; Martel, Priscella, Van Damme, Eddy (2009). Falling sugar prices toward the end of the seventeenth century enabled the rising wealthy merchant dynasties in Vienna and Paris’s prosperous cities to trade in sugar, which was once available exclusively to royalty. Café culture, as we know it, was born in Paris. This café culture involved meeting over tea, coffee, and cake to discuss revolutionary ideas against King Louis XIV (Willan, 2016). Anatomy of a Croissant Croissants are shaped from an isosceles, the triangle-shaped piece of leavened, laminated pastry and coiled from the base to the tip when forming. They are made using butter or pastry margarine. Croissants are available worldwide in curved, crescent shapes or straight. They can be hand-made by artisans in bakeries and pastry kitchens or industrially mass-produced, frozen, and distributed globally. They are possibly the most globally iconic pastry that conjures up an association with France when seen or spoken about. They are available in different quality standards depending on whether they are laminated with butter, pastry margarine, or other fats. The percentage of butter in a croissant is usually 30% dough weight. In the pastry, the triangle base is referred to as the base or the foot, and the top is known as the tip. The pastry triangle has two flat sides and three cut edges on the outside of the pastry. When a croissant is rolled up, the outsides edges are visible as “steps” or “shoulders”. The number of shoulders is predetermined by the size and length of the isosceles the triangles cut to form them. A ratio of 10 cm wide to 30 cm long is common. Additionally, the cut of the triangle is stretched further by the baker’s hand, further elongating it, and allowing the pastry to have more coils or shoulders. The croissant should not be stressed too much when forming as it will tear when proofing. When stretched for creating, the pastry should have a graduated thickness extending from the thinnest part at the base to the thickest part at the tip. The bicolor croissant below was made in Reykjavik, Iceland, while assisting Team Iceland as a tutor in January 2018.

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Overview and Hacks for Laminated Pastry Making The laminated pastry is usually made by combining a stiff and sometimes enriched sweet dough with a sheet or block of butter known as a butter block. The dough and butter should have the same consistency, favouring even layer formation when rolled and folded. While pastry margarine and other hard fats can also be used to achieve lamination, this publication’s focus is the production of laminated pastry using butter. The butter should be hammered with a rolling pin, a technique known as beurrage in French, to plasticise the butterfat and make it malleable for rolling. It is then formed into a rectangular block known as a butter block. The dough is sheeted out thinly in the pastry’s make-up process and folded to surround or encapsulate the butter. When the butter and dough combine, it is referred to as pastry. Standard laminated pastry-making practice begins with a sandwich of three layers; two layers of dough on top and bottom, with the butter block in the centre; like a slice of cheese between two slices of bread. The pastry is formed by rolling or sheeting the dough and butter in unison. As the pastry is rolled down to create a thin sheet, a process called sheeting, the dough and butter layers extend out into a thin pastry rectangle. The dough and butter layers remain separate and intact, forming long, thin alternating dough/butter/dough layers in this pastry sheet. Once sheeted to an acceptable thickness, building the number of layers to a desired numerical value is achieved by folding the sheeted pastry into pleats which sit on top of each other like building blocks. The most common folds used in laminated pastry making after the lock-in are the book fold, a 4-fold, and a half fold, a 3-fold. Every time the pastry is sheeted, folded, and re-sheeted, additional layers are formed within the pastry. These layers are folded and built up within the pastry, creating a laminated pastry product's light-eating quality and volume. The process and temperature control are essential in successful pastry making, as is the number of layers required for a particular product. Croissant generally requires 25 layers; chocolatine has 33 layers, and puff paste can have well over 145 layers depending on the number of folds given to the pastry. Page | 18

I have identified 22 separate stages in producing laminated pastry through distinct stages, whether baking straight away or freezing/retarding for another day. The 22 Stages of Laminated Pastry Production and Handling 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22.

Weighing of the raw materials Mixing times and desired dough temperature 25 ℃ – 26 ℃ Preparation of the butter block while mixing the dough Bulk fermentation of the dough (45 minutes) Flattening and chilling of the dough (3 ℃ – 4 ℃ ) overnight for cold fermentation Lock-in of the butter into a sandwich between the dough using a 3 or 5-layer lock-in Sheeting #1, reducing the pastry down in thickness to between 4 mm and 5 mm and 1st fold Resting in chilled storage (−18 ℃ between ice blankets if available) Sheeting #2, reducing the pastry down in thickness to between 5 mm and 2nd fold Chilling/resting (−18 ℃ between ice blankets if available) Final sheeting to a thickness of between 3.5 mm – 4.0 mm Cutting to size and shape Shaping, forming, and traying up Proofing (26 ℃ – 27.5 ℃ at 80% relative humidity RH) 2 − 3 hours, Wobble test, visually observe the separation of layers at the end of proof time Eggwashing (recipe #11). Retardation (3 ℃ − RH 80%) if holding overnight for baking the following day Blast freezing after 3/4 proof Freezing (−18 ℃) if holding for several days, preferably Baking – temperature and time, which will depend on oven type Cooling on wire racks to prevent the bottoms from becoming soggy Finishing/packing.

Types of Flour Used in Artisan Baking in America and Europe Calvel’s The Taste of Bread has an extensive table on page 4 showing US and French flour's protein and ash content (Calvel, 2001). The extraction rate is the quantity of flour extracted from each wheat berry during the milling process. The lower the flour extraction rate, the whiter the flour will be as the flour is removed from the wheat berry centre, e.g., T-45 flour. The higher the extraction rate, the more bran and percentage of the wheat berry, e.g., T-150 is a dark brown wholemeal flour of almost 98% extraction. ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚

Type 45: Type 55: Type 65: Type 80: Type 110: Type 150:

Ash content below 0.50 Ash content 0.50–0.62 Ash content 0.62–0.75 Ash content 0.75–0.90 Ash content 1.00–1.20 Ash content above 1.40

extraction rate extraction rate extraction rate extraction rate extraction rate extraction rate

67% –70% 75% –78% 78% –82% 82% –85% 85% –90% 90% –98%

(Calvel, 2001). American flour’s protein and ash content is measured based on a 14% flour humidity. However, in Europe and many other countries, protein and ash are measured on the dry flour matter; as a Page | 19

result, the ash and protein content numbers cannot be compared directly. For example, French flour measuring 0.55 ash (type 55) corresponds to a US 0.46 ash content flour. For instance, European flour with a 12% protein content would be calculated as a 10.32% USA equivalent. It is also fair to say that there are no direct equivalent flours between the French/German and US types, as many US millers do not list flour ash content on the package. AP flour is equal to T-55 for croissant making in the USA. A separate flour specification sheet must be requested to establish the ash content of each individual flour type. The inability to develop like-for-like equivalents in flour types is mostly due to each miller's difference in the milling process steps. Milling consists of a series of steps of sorting, grinding, sifting, and regrinding grain. Diverse types of mills process the grain differently; some mills are traditional millstones, while modern mills use steel rollers, and all produce variation in the product. The milling process aims to gradually extract the maximum amount of endosperm (the white central part of the grain) while eliminating the bran, the roughage on the outside. Each step produces a “stream” of flour (after the sifting process). The grain undergoing milling can pass through several sets of rollers, each roller descending in thickness as the grain passes through. Each consecutive step in the milling process removes additional bran from the wheat kernel. The streams or breaks, as they are also called, are separated individually. The first milling stages produce the weakest flours in terms of protein content. The last step(s) will make “clear” flours that are strong and darker as they contain pieces of the bran. They are mostly considered useful to strengthen doughs where, for example, the percentage of rye flour is high. Therefore, the colour, like whole grain bread, is not so critical. French flours are created by mixing various flour streams to produce desired ash content. Many American mills do not combine individual flour streams but prefer to select flour blends based on desired dough properties or strength. Consequently, directly comparing the flour’s ash content does not guarantee equivalency between types. Higher extraction rates in milling generally imply more of the outer endosperm, a darker flour, and high/greater protein content. Additionally, darker, or higher extraction flours have a higher ash content. Non-standardised blending occurs in many mills in America, which creates a scenario whereby a non-standard result in flour is possible for comparison measures. Germany has a different system; it adds a “0” to the French types for the German equivalent compared to French flours. T-55 will become T-550 flour (Weekendbakery.com, 2020). A Guide to Flour Comparison Worldwide I have included two tables on the following page, which will help me compare the complex issue of flour types. They are for use as a guide; they are a rough comparison only and are not a like-for-like swap; different milling styles and a different grist or blend of grains give each flour type its diverse character and quality. The first table’s information was from the Dove’s Farm

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website. Still, I added extra content to include other countries, such as Canada and Ireland. Doves Farm offers many great baking resources and makes brilliant flour. Flour is a deal breaker. Without the correct flour type, you will not make a great croissant. If you have very weak flour, you may need to fortify it with additional dry gluten sieved into the flour. If your flour is too strong, you may need to dilute its strength by blending the strong flour with some pastry flour. A typical blend is 80% strong and sieved with 20% pastry or biscuit flour. Table 1: Flour types comparison table (Doves Farm, 2020) Milled from 100% of the grain

Extraction rate 85%

White White bread flour bread flour

Argentina

½

Australia

Wholemeal flour

Bread flour

Whole wheat flour

Bread flour

Canada China Czech Republic France Germany Holland India Ireland Italy Poland Portugal

0

00

-

White flour 000

Very fine flour low extraction rate 0000

Plain flour

Cake/pastry flour

Bakers patent flour -

All-purpose flour

Pastry/cake flour

中筋麵粉

-

小麦面粉

-

-

Celozrnná mouka

Hrubá mouka

Polohrubá mouka

-

Hladká mouka

Farine intègral 150

110

80

65

55

Hladká mouka výběrová 45 00

Vollkorn 1600

1050

812

-

550

405

Volkorenmeel

Gebuilde bloem

Tarwe bloem

-

Patent bloem

Zeeuwse bloem

Maida / safed Soft flour

Chakki atta

Atta

-

-

Wholemeal flour

Wheat meal flour

Strong bakers flour

Bakers flour

Pastry/biscuit flour

Integrale

Tipo 2

Tipo 1

-

0

00

Razowa Harina integrale 150

Sitkowa 110

Chlebowa 80

70

Luksusowa 55

Tortowa 45

Celozrnná mouka

Hrubá mouka 110

Polohrubá mouka 80

70

Hladká mouka 55

110

80

70

55

Harina integrale 150

110

80

70

55

45

UK

Wholemeal flour

Brown flour

-

Plain flour

Patent flour

USA

Whole wheat flour

-

All-purpose flour

Pastry flour

Slovakia Spain Spain Portugal

Harina integrale 150 Harina integrale 150

Strong bread flour-gluten First clear flour High bread flour

Hladká mouka výběrová 45 00 45

Table 2: Flour types, ash, and protein content (Weekendbakery.com, 2020)

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Ingredient Choices Used in Great Pastry Making Firstly, the ingredients used should be of the highest possible quality. The flour used for viennoiserie should not be too strong and exhibit good elasticity. When processed into dough can be made using spelt, all-purpose flour, Bakers flour; AP flour; T-55, T-65, wholemeal or other special flours such as T-45 Gruau Rouge flour. Gruau Rouge is a low-extraction, high protein, white flour with a lot of elasticity and is ideal for Viennoiserie. If this cannot be sourced, a baker’s bread-making flour (strong flour) combined with a soft pastry-type flour in a 75% / 25% or a 70% / 30% ratio will give a favourable result. Tests using 100% Spelt flour have also produced very satisfactory products. The lamination butter should also be a special dry, hardened butter with 82% − 86% fat content. But butter with high-fat content will work, too, provided the dough, butter and work area are kept cool. ⮚ The type of yeast stated in all the recipes is fresh, compressed yeast ⮚ If using dried yeast, use 1/3 − 1/2 of the weights given in the recipes for fresh yeast ⮚ Use osmotolerant yeast if available for a high-sugar/high-fat environment ⮚ Lower protein flour with extensible gluten characteristics 11.5% − 12.8% protein ⮚ A preferment recipe with a minimum of up to 25% of the flour will assist elasticity and handling ⮚ A hardened butter with an 82% – 85% butterfat content with good plasticity qualities

Other Ingredients in The Pastry Water Hydration of the dough is essential. Many bakers use between 46% − 55% hydration for laminated dough so that the dough consistency matches that of the butter for ease of lamination and superior layering. Using filtered water removes chlorine and other minerals, which may affect and delay fermentation. Liquid Levain Adds extensibility and maturity to the dough, with subtle flavour and slow leavening. These qualities aid greater volume and extensibility. Levain assists in the development of an open honeycomb internal structure. I use a 1:2:2 liquid levain ratio; where 1= levain; 2 = flour; and 2 = water ( 100 g; 200 g; 200 g) mixed together and fermented for at least 6 hours before putting it in the mix for my croissant dough. Yeast-an Overview Saccharomyces Cerevisiae, or bakers’ yeast as it is commonly known, is the yeast bakers use most worldwide. Yeast comes in many different forms, from fresh to dried, and yeast reproduces by a process known as budding. Yeast’s reproduction rate ensures that it doubles in quantity every 90 minutes (Berry, et al., 2012). Theoretically, the amount of yeast in a dough can double in 90 minutes. Still, factors such as dough temperature, enrichment levels, and pH can have a marked effect on yeast reproduction. Placing a yeasted dough into a refrigerator, for example, will slow down yeast Page | 22

reproduction. Placing the dough in a warm proofer can accelerate yeast reproduction. There are many types of baker’s yeast available on the market today. Yeast is available as fresh/compressed, freeze-dried/dehydrated and vacuum packed so that the yeast has an exceptionally long shelf life at ambient temperature. My choice for making pastry is fresh compressed yeast or, if available, osmotolerant fresh yeast. It is a special yeast sold in Europe to produce brioche and laminated pastry. It performs much better in enriched pastry's high fat/sugar environment, giving superior tolerance and gassing performance than regular bakers’ yeast. Bakers or fresh yeast is the standard stated in all recipes in this book unless otherwise stated. I use 10 g dry/30 g compressed yeast, but many people also use 10 g dry to 20 g compressed yeast in smaller batches. Fresh Yeast Pastry chefs and bakers use fresh yeast or special osmotolerant yeast for viennoiserie for highsugar/high-fat doughs, assisting in more outstanding controlled fermentation. The gassing of the yeast gives stability to the fermentation of the dough. It also adds to the lightness or airiness of the pastry. In many warm countries, it is not possible to get fresh yeast, and dry yeast is readily available. There are two main types of dried yeast used in baking: Instant Yeast Instant or quick-acting yeast can be added directly into the mix in powder form. It dissolves quickly and has good gassing properties. It is usually used as 1/3 the quantity of fresh yeast stated in a recipe. So, you would use 10 g of instant yeast to replace 30 g of fresh yeast. Active Dry Yeast Active dried yeast requires hydration before adding it to your dough. Blooming the yeast is a term used when using active dry yeast. The yeast should be dissolved in a small quantity of the dough making water at a temperature of 35 ℃ − 45 ℃ and allowed to stand for a few minutes to become active. Use 10 g of active dry yeast to replace 30 g of fresh yeast. Dried yeasts may also contain emulsifiers and bread improvers for use in bread machines, In summary, hydrating all yeast forms before making your dough is best practice to reinforce the importance of handling yeast correctly. The warmth of the water encourages good gassing and fermentation of the dough. Always read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations when using dry yeast for the best results. N.B. Always use yeast that is in date, and never use yeast that has passed its use-by date, as it will not be potent and will not rise enough to produce great pastry.

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Sugar Sugar acts as a sweetener to the dough and as a portion of food for the yeast. The sugar also improves the colour of the baking pastry, giving it a golden colour. The sugar also helps with the caramelization of the crust, giving flavour and texture to the pastry. Salt Salt gives flavour to the dough; it also controls the yeast’s fermentation and adds colour pigmentation to the pastry. Use organic natural salt where possible. I use organic Oriel Sea salt as a natural salt, free of anti-caking agents and additives. Salt also indirectly contributes to the baked pastry's colour by slowing the fermentation rate, which makes more residual sugar available in the dough, adding better colour and flavour to the pastry. Malt Powder or Liquid Barley Malt Malt is food for yeast development and stability and gives the baked pastry a classic chestnut brown colour on the crust. It also enhances the butter flavour. Non-active malt (non-diastatic) should be used. You can use either powdered malt or malt syrup. Honey/glucose are good substitutes if you cannot access malt; it can also be left out of the recipe if required. Butter Used in The Dough Adding butter to the dough gives the pastry a nicer eating quality. The butterfat acts as a lubricant to the dough’s gluten, improving its extensibility in mixing, lamination, proofing, and baking. Pâté Fermentée Like liquid levain, pâté fermentée adds a more pronounced flavour to the dough and assists in the pastry’s elasticity and rolling. It also contributes to an open honeycomb structure internally. Keep trimmings from a batch of pastry and use them as your pâté fermentée. Lamination Butter Used During Coupe Du Monde Chocolatine (CDMC) − Lescure Beautiful Lescure hardened butter is specially made for excellent flavour and quality laminated viennoiserie production. The higher fat content/lower moisture content enables the dough to form beautiful layers easier. The butter also has a higher melting point which helps keep the delicious flaky layers intact throughout the production process. Chocolate Sticks Valrhona Used During CDMC The globally famous Valrhona chocolate brand provided the chocolate sticks for the Chocolatine World Cup. Valrhona chocolate bars are specially made for baking and do not burn in the oven of premium quality.

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Eggwash Eggwash is the varnish on the pastry. It gives a beautiful shine and colour, adds flavour, and helps the layers at the top of the chocolatine stick together and not fly off the top when baking. See eggwash recipe #11. Butter Making an Understanding of the Process Good butter is fundamental to making great croissants and laminated pastries. Lamination butter is known as dry or hard butter. It is made by adding cultures to the cream to create fermentation for flavour. It is processed to produce small butter crystals which hold less water/oil on the outside of their crystalline structure. The slow maturation allows the creams to develop their flavour organoleptic qualities fully. Seeded with bespoke lactic cultures, the cream “rests” for up to 18 hours before being churned. Cultured butter is typically 82% − 84%, but different manufacturers produce ranges of cultured butter from 82% − 100%. Brands of dry butter that I have used include Lescure (84%), Elle & Vire (84%), President (84%), Irish Gourmet Butter (82%), Grassland Dairy Wüthrich 83% European Style Unsalted, Edinburgh Butter Company (85%), Avonmore (83%), Kerrygold (80%), Corman (82% & 99.9%), Anchor Butter (81.4%), Isigny Ste Mère (82%). Butter History It is thought that Asian nomads unintentionally discovered butter-making first. They allegedly collected milk from their cattle, sheep, and goats. Then they separated the cream from the milk and continually mixed it, possibly in leather bags or wooden churns, until the butter was produced. The continuous churn was commercialized by the middle of the 20th century. At the same time, the commercial cream separator was first introduced at the end of the 19th century. After World War II, continuous butter production was established, increasing production and efficiency. Before the industrial revolution of butter-making, enterprising farmers made it widely in homes or farms. When completed, it was wrapped in greaseproof paper for sale. Turning Cream into Butter The cream is a natural component of milk. It is high in fat, and when milk is collected and allowed to stand, the fat cream will float to the top of the milk and can be collected simply by skimming off the cream. The cream is then churned to create butter. Churns vary in size and can be small, household utensils for making butter in the home or farm, then scaling up to large industrial centrifuges used in the dairy industry to separate milk's liquid and fat components. The collected cream is then mixed with a series of beaters in the churn/centrifuge until the fats separate from the liquid. The liquid extracted is known as buttermilk and contains natural cultures. The remaining butter is in a plastic, semi-solid state and turns a bright yellow colour, typical of butter. The butter is processed as unsalted or salted and prepared from sweet cream. However, acidulated or bacteriologically soured cream can also be used, and unsalted kinds of butter are produced at this stage. Butter was still prepared from cream and allowed to stand and naturally Page | 25

sour until the 19th century. After that, the cream was removed from the milk's surface and placed into a wooden tub. In butter churns, butter was traditionally made by hand. However, the natural souring process is extremely delicate, and contamination with unwelcome microbes frequently leads to spoilage. Commercial butter making now results from science, knowledge and expertise amassed through time using hygienic temperature-controlled processes. Before churning, the cream should be held at approximately 15 °C. Bacterial acidification, heat treatment, and rapid technological advancement resulted in the sophisticated equipment used today in commercial butter manufacture. Cream requires a pH of at least 6.6., to kill unwanted enzyme activity and microorganisms. The cream is pasteurized at a temperature of 95 °C or higher. When made, it is sweet, not oxidized or rancid. Specially manufactured dairy cultures are added to milk sugars to ferment them into lactic acid and give cultured butter its desired flavour and aroma. The process is like making a sourdough culture for bread making. A lactic culture is seeded into the cream, which develops flavour during fermentation. Lamination butter for croissant making is made this way. Thus, butter granules and buttermilk are divided into two fractions from the cream. When the grains reach a certain size during traditional churning, the machine stops, and the buttermilk is drained. Buttermilk is continuously drained when using a continuous butter maker. After draining, the butter is processed to a continuous fat phase with a finely dispersed water phase. Washing the butter after churning to eliminate any leftover buttermilk or milk solids was a systematic process, but it is now much less common. This washing process would remove all the buttermilk from the butter. If not, the butter would sour and go off. As salt is a preservative, it increases butter's flavour and shelf life. On the other hand, unsalted butter has a shorter shelf life, allowing the baker/pastry chef to season his creations without guessing how much salt is in his butter. Finally, the butter is formed into the desired shape, blocks, sticks, or laminated sheets. These days the process is carried out by an extruder, wrapped in waxed foil paper, and kept in a cool location. Mixed bacterial cultures are added if ripening is desired to produce cultured butter. The bacteria belong to the Lactobacillus suborder of the genus Streptococcaceae, including Leuconostoc and lactic Streptococcus, also known as Lactococcus. The most frequently used cultures in cultured butter making are ➢ Lactococcus lactis species ➢ Lactococcus lactis cremoris ➢ Lactococcus lactis biovar diacetylactis ➢ Leuconostoc mesenteroides subsp. cremoris (Leuc. citrovorum) (http://www.webexhibits.org/butter/kitchen.html) The cream is aged at a temperature of 21 °C to a pH of 5.5 and then at 13 °C to a pH of 4.6. Most flavour formation happens in the pH range of 5.5 to 4.6. The flavour develops more concerning Page | 26

acid production at cooler ripening temperatures. Typically, ripened butter is neither salted nor cleansed. Fresh or slightly soured cream can be used; however, the latter usually produces the best results. Using a unique lactic starter, the cream is soured, and after the culture has been added, it is allowed to stand at 21 °C for 12 − 18 hours. After ripening, the cream is chilled to between 4.5 °C to 7 °C for many hours to allow the fat to firm up. The cream is then placed into a butter churn and warmed to 10 °C to 18 °C. Before being churned into butter, the cream is chilled to prevent the fat from crystallizing and ensure that the finished butter has the proper consistency. Since it influences other qualities, primarily flavour and aroma, butter's consistency is one of its most significant quality-related traits. A complex product, butter consistency includes viscosity, hardness, flexibility, and spread ability. In the case of lamination butter, all these qualities matter in the processing of fine laminated pastry. Whether a fat is hard or soft depends on the proportions of fatty acids with high melting points in the fat. At normal temperatures, soft fat has a large continuous fat phase with a low solid phase, or crystallized, high-melting fat, and is rich in low-melting fatty acids. In contrast, the solid phase of high-melting fat is significantly greater than the continuous fat phase of low-melting fatty acids in hard fat. When creating butter, the consistency of the butter will depend on the chemical makeup of the milk fat if the cream is consistently heated to the same temperature. Butter made from soft milk fat will be smooth and greasy. Butter made from hard milk fat will be firm and stiff because the heat treatment controls the size of the fat crystals and the proportions of solid and continuous phases, which together determine the butter's consistency. Liquification of the fat in the fat globules takes place during the pasteurization process. Some of the fat will crystallize when the cream is chilled. The crystals will be numerous and small if the cooling is rapid; fewer but larger crystals will be produced if the cooling is gradual. More fat will crystallize and form during the solid phase as the cooling process becomes more agitated. Less liquid fat will be squeezed out of the fat globules during churning and working the butter to its final consistency. By adsorption, the crystals attach the liquid fat to their surface. More liquid fat will be absorbed than if the crystals were few and huge because the overall surface area is considerably higher if the crystals are numerous and small. Churning and working will only extract a small percentage of the liquid fat from the fat globules in the first scenario. The process will result in a small continuous fat phase and hard butter. The opposite is true in the second scenario. More liquid fat will be squeezed out, a larger continuous phase, and produce softer butter. Therefore, it is conceivable to control the size of the crystals in the fat globules, affecting both the magnitude and the type of the significant continuous fat phase by altering the chilling schedule for the cream. Page | 27

Tempering the Fat Crystals for Hard Butter When the butterfat is hard, most of the hardest fat must be transformed into the fewest number of crystals feasible to reduce the amount of liquid fat attached to the crystals. By maximizing the liquid fat phase within the fat globules and pressing out a significant portion during churning and working, the butter will have a relatively long continuous phase of liquid fat and the hard fat will be worked into the solid phase. Below are the main controls used in the process: ➢ rapid chilling to 8 °C and storage for 2 hours ➢ slowly heat the chilled butter to 20 °C – 21 °C ➢ cool to16 °C Many tiny crystals are formed when the butter is cooled to 8 °C, and these crystals bind fat from the continuous liquid phase to their surface. Many of the crystals melt when the cream is gradually heated to 20 °C – 21°C, leaving only the hard fat crystals, which grow larger while being stored at 20 °C – 21 °C. Most of the hard fat will have crystallized and is mostly free of the liquid fat after 1 to 2 hours of the process. The hardest part of the fat will be fixed in crystal form by lowering the temperature to 16 °C, while the remaining fraction will liquefy. Fat with a melting point of 16 °C or above will be added to the crystals during the holding period at that temperature. A significant amount of the butter oil may be extracted during churning and working. The treatment has caused the highmelting fat to accumulate in big crystals with little adsorption of the low-melting liquid fat.

Understanding The Butter Butter is an emulsion of oil and water made from dairy cream. Butter comes in many forms: ghee, salted, unsalted, country butter, clarified butter, spreadable butter, fractionated butter, recombined butter, and dry butter. The texture achieved by butter is a result of the degree of processing given to the butter during the manufacturing process. Like chocolate, the fat in butter undergoes a tempering factor that establishes a crystalline network, which results in the smooth texture which butter exhibits as raw material and a portion of food. Salt is added for both flavour and to extend the shelf life of the butter. Butter has many applications and functions in laminated pastry making. Regular soft butter is added as an enriching agent in the croissant dough made before lamination. It also contributes to a shortening effect in the finished product by lubricating the mixed dough’s gluten. I do not recommend using homemade butter for lamination as it is too soft, has too much water and has too little butterfat. A harder, dry butter is used for the lamination process. This hard, dry butter is made from fermented cream and has had some liquid components removed to add more hard fat. Plasticity and high melting point are the properties bakers seek in this type of butter. Suppose the butter is too hard and lacks plasticity. As the dough is stretched during the sheeting process by Page | 28

the rollers, the butter will fracture as the dough stretches. The shattered butter separates into shards, and the elastic dough fills up the gaps created by the shattered butter, leading to uneven distribution of the layers and interrupted layer formation. In the diagrams below, the brown colour represents dough, and the yellow colour represents butter. You can see in the first example that the lamination is perfect, with evenly formed layers alternating between the dough components and the butter components of the pastry.

In the next diagram below, we observe the fracturing of the butter during sheeting. As the butter snaps from being too cold, it separates and breaks into smaller pieces (red arrows). The elastic tension in the dough components moves to replace the space created (blue arrow) by the fractured butter. The outcome is that even lamination has been lost, and the pastry will have a mottled look and colour. It is important to note that once the lamination breaks down, there is no fix, and the pastry will be of inferior quality. The effect will be most evident when examining the baked pastry's internal structure. Instead of a honeycomb, the crumb will resemble bread or brioche instead.

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Butter Components Butter is typically made up of the following components, and butter fat up to 85% is not uncommon in some butter used for lamination in bakeries worldwide: ⮚ Butterfat 80.0% – 83.0% ⮚ Water 15.6% – 17.6% Proteins and fat-soluble vitamins and minerals 1% − 1.2% include: ⮚ Phosphorus ⮚ Calcium ⮚ Vitamins A, D and E ⮚ Available as salted or unsalted butter (Ranken, et al., 1997). Butterfat crystals are classified as existing in the following states ⮚ Alpha (α) ⮚ Beta prime (β!) ⮚ Beta (β) The alpha (α) form is the least stable of the butter crystals, has the lowest melting point, and is generally scattered randomly in the butter. The beta prime (β!) or intermediate stage tends to align itself at right angles in alternating rows. It is larger than the alpha crystalline form. They are more stable and have a higher melting point than alpha crystals. In this form, they form a smooth surface which is ideal for lamination as the smooth crystalline surfaces allow the butter layers to glide and create even layers displaying the best plasticity. The beta (β) crystals are the largest crystalline form in butter and tend to form in parallel rows. These crystals are the most stable of the three states and have the highest melting point (Brown, 2018). The shape and type of butter crystals govern their practicality in pastry making and food preparation. A common characteristic of butterfat is that the butter’s melting point increases as the crystal size increases. The first form of crystal in butter, the alpha (α) crystal, is the smallest state. The middle-sized crystal is called the beta prime (β!) or intermediate stage. The final and largest stage is the beta (β) crystal (Brown, 2018). The tempering of butter for croissant sheets takes place at the manufacturing stage of the process. The butter’s plasticity and consistency are determined by the correct tempering and the accurate addition of hard fat balanced by removing oils and liquid components. Tempering rigid butter sheets by passing them through a pastry sheeter or hydraulic press raises the fat’s temperature; this leads to the alignment and formation of the beta prime crystals in the butterfat. This property gives good plasticity to the butter during processing and adds texture to the finished product. The rheological answer of the lock-in butter arises from a colloidal grid of several types of fat crystals. The network or matrix formed during the fat’s manufacturing process and crystallisation influences its lamination and handling characteristics.

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To ensure that these good lamination characteristics are maintained throughout the process of making croissants, the crystallisation must be judiciously performed by controlling the temperature of the butter at all times (Rodriguez & Merangioni, 2018). Lamination butter is normally plasticised as it is prepared for incorporation in pastry by a process known in French as Beurrage. The butter is placed between two silicone mats, a plastic sheet or parchment paper, and beaten down with a rolling pin to give the butter plasticity. Beurrage encourages the formation of small crystals in the butter’s crystal network. The most favourable temperature range for working with hard, dry, croissant butter is between 7 ℃ − 11 °C, whereas standard types of butter with lower fat content are most plastic between 16 ℃ − 21 °C (Stamm, 2011). I find the best working temperature with 82% − 84% butterfat between 9 ℃ − 12℃.

Butter Guidelines for most Croissant Pastry: ➢ Butter in the dough-making stage is 5% flour weight or 50 g per 1000g flour ➢ Lamination butter is 50% of the flour weight or 500 g butter to 1000 g flour ➢ Lamination butter can be equal to the dough hydration – 50% flour weight ➢ Lamination butter can be up to 1/3rd of the dough weight, 333 g per 1000 g of dough Use unsalted butter in the doughmaking stage. Now that the butter component is prepared, it's time to discuss the dough or Detempre. Mixing the dough is most important to the outcome of the pastry, and there are many ways of mixing the dough using an array of mixing machines. You can indeed mix small quantities by hand. Still, suppose you are serious about making consistent pastry. In that case, you will need a mixing machine and a timer so it mixes exactly the same each time and to the same temperature. You will also need to control the final dough temperature. Later in the book, I will cover two methods for achieving dough temperature control. These methods of dough temperature management are known as: 1.

The Desired Dough Temperature Method -DDT

2.

The Base Temperature Method -BT

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Dough Mixing and Good Things to Know About Different Mixers It is essential to mix the dough to a windowpane stage, and this can be achieved: 1.

Mixing by hand

2.

Mixing on a small KitchenAid/Stand type mixer

3.

Large planetary stand mixer

4.

Mixing on an old-style spiral mixer (no impeller bar)

5.

Mixing on a single-speed spiral

6.

Mixing on a modern two-speed spiral with an impeller bar

7.

Mixing on a twin-arm mixer

8.

Mixing on a fork-type mixer

9.

Mixing on a high-speed mixer

10.

Mixing on Z blade intensive mixers

11.

Mixing on a continuous ribbon extrusion mixer

I have listed some, but not all mixer types above to encompass the many machines available in the marketplace. Some are suitable for home use, and others are the realm of large industrial producers. The interesting point is that none of the above machines mix the dough in the same time. A KitchenAid stand mixer typically takes 10 to 15 minutes to develop a windowpane. In contrast, a high-speed mixer may only require 2−3 minutes. Spiral mixers sit somewhere in the middle, and two-speed modern spiral mixers with an impeller bar will mix croissant dough in 10 − 12 minutes. Older pizza spiral mixers with no impeller bar and a single speed may take 20 minutes or more. Most twin-arm mixers will take 20 minutes to develop the dough. Below I will synopsise the pros and cons of the three most widely used types of mixers. Planetary/Stand Mixers ➢ Long mixing times 15 − 20 minutes. 5 min 1st speed followed by 7 − 10 minutes 2nd speed; each stand mixer will be different ➢ Limited capacity on small mixers as the dough is very stiff and can break the mixer or the hook ➢ Large friction will increase dough temperature over the mixing time Two Speed Spiral Mixers with Impeller Bar ➢ Shorter mixing times −4 minutes first speed plus 4 − 7 minutes on second speed ➢ Large capacity on spiral ➢ Large friction will increase dough temperature over the mixing time Single Speed Spiral No Impeller Bar There are many second-hand and older spiral mixers in the marketplace. They only operate at one speed and have no impeller bar. Page | 32

➢ Long mixing times – up to 20 minutes ➢ Friction is only moderate ➢ Inefficient ➢ Large capacity Twin Arm/Fork Mixers ➢ It can take up to 30 minutes to mix a dough ➢ Twin arm mixer requires one arm to be rolled up by a wheel out of the dough halfway through the mixing ➢ With little friction, the dough remains cool throughout the process ➢ Large capacity As we see from the mixer discussion, each mixer/type exhibits different friction factors which heat the dough. The baker/pastry chef must know how to control the dough temperature. Temperature control can be achieved in several ways: 1. Use of chilled water 2. Use of flaked ice (in warm countries) 3. Chilling flour overnight in the refrigerator before mixing 4. Knowing the friction factor of your mixer As a rule of thumb, 1 ℃ is calculated per 1 minute of added mixing time when mixing the dough with spiral mixers. So, for example, if your mix time is 8 minutes, you could expect an 8 ℃ temperature rise in the dough. In the next section, I will discuss Desired Dough Temperature.

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Desired Dough Temperature Bakers and pastry chefs make bread and pastry worldwide, from tropical areas to colder locations in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres; this means daily working temperatures won’t be the same for every baker. A baker in Ireland or the UK may come to work to meet flour, sugar, and equipment at 10 ℃. In contrast, a baker in the Bahamas or Namibia may work with ingredients and equipment at 22 ℃. These temperature differences are important to kick-start the gassing process and achieve consistent dough fermentation. Ensuring the final dough temperature is 24 ℃ – 26 ℃, referred to as the Desired Dough Temperature (DDT), is crucial. The baker in Ireland may need to warm their ingredients (e.g., flour, water). The baker in Namibia may need to chill their ingredients in a refrigerator overnight before using them. A good rule of thumb is to calculate the dough temp so that when the dough is finished mixing, it will be at the desired or optimum temperature to promote fermentation. Generally, when using flour at room temperature, you must adjust the water temperature to achieve DDT. Every baker should commit this calculation to memory and employ it in their daily decision-making processes. Calculating the Desired Dough Temperature When calculating DDT: Twice the required dough temperature minus the flour temperature gives you the required water temperature. Considered as a formula, the rule looks like this: (DDT × 2) − Flour Temperature = Water Temperature or (DDT × 2) − FT = WT When mixing the dough, the formula generally considers the friction factor (i.e., the temperature increases due to the heat generated by a mixer). A couple of examples may be helpful. Let’s use the temperature examples given earlier in this section. Example 1. Cold climate (10 ℃) The DDT for a particular recipe is 26 ℃. Therefore, the bakery temperature, assuming everything else in the bakery, including your flour, is 10 ℃. (DDT × 2) − FT = WT (26 ℃ × 2) − FT = WT 52 ℃ − FT = WT 52 ℃ − 10 ℃ = WT 42 ℃ = WT Twice the DDT of 26 ℃ is 52 ℃ minus the temperature of the flour (10 ℃) gives you the needed temperature of the water (42 ℃). Page | 34

Example 2. Warm climate (22 ℃) The DDT for a particular recipe is 26 ℃. Therefore, if the bakery temperature, everything else in the bakery, including your flour, is at a temperature of 22 ℃.

(DDT × 2) − FT = WT (26 ℃ × 2) – 22 ℃ = WT 52 ℃ − 22 ℃ = 30 ℃ Twice the DDT of 26 ℃ is 52 ℃ minus the temperature of the flour (22 ℃) gives you the required temperature of the water (30 ℃).

Base Temperature Calculation Many European recipes use a figure known as Base Temperature in their recipes. While similar to DDT, the dough's Base Temperature (BT) is given a typical range of 54 ℃ − 60 ℃ BT. The BT will vary depending on the type of dough being made. A typical BT calculation formula for Croissant dough is as follows: BT − (Flour Temperature (FT) + Bakery Environment (BE)) = Water temperature(WT) The famous cereal scientist and baker Raymond Calvel is credited with introducing the BT method of dough temperature calculation. As with DDT calculation, the temperature of the flour, if it has been stored in the bakery, is often cooler than room temperature. The room's temperature can also vary. For example, the bakery can be cool in the early morning but will heat up as the ovens give off heat as products are removed after baking. Another factor, for example, is the time of day you mix the dough. Again, early morning temperatures will be cooler than in the afternoon due to solar heating or heating in the bakery or the home. In both cases, the environment and the flour are at specific temperatures, and we have little control over these variables. However, we can adjust the water temperature, which, when added to the flour to make the dough, will raise or reduce the temperature of the finished dough. As with the DDT calculations, water can be added to the dough at different temperatures to control the final dough temperature. Examples of extremes will be if you work in the Tropics or Antarctica. Add cold water/crushed ice to the dough when working in a warm or tropical climate. Conversely, you would need to use warm water if working in a cold climate/environment like Antarctica. Here are a few examples of BT calculation using the same examples as for DDT and a BT of 54 ℃.

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Example 1. Cold climate (10 ℃) The BT for a particular Croissant dough recipe is 54 ℃. The bakery temperature is 10 ℃, and the flour is 8 ℃. Using the formula next page, we can calculate the water temperature even more precisely. BT − (Flour Temperature (FT) + Bakery Environment (BE)) = Water temperature(WT) BT 54 ℃ − (8 ℃ (FT) + 10 ℃ (BE)) = 54 ℃− 18 ℃ = (32 ℃) Water temperature Example 2. Warm climate (22 ℃) The BT for a particular recipe is 26 ℃. The bakery temperature is 22 ℃, and the flour is 20 ℃. BT 54 ℃ − (20 ℃ (FT) + 22 ℃ (BE)) = 54 ℃− 42 ℃ = (12 ℃) Water Temperature

Friction Factor While I have already discussed how the DDT and BT calculations work, it helps to understand how you can calculate the friction factor for your dough mixer. As I have already explained, planetary, stand, spiral, fork, and twin arm mixers take various times to mix and develop the dough. Let’s examine how you can understand and calculate how to develop a friction factor for your mixer type. The process is straightforward, and when done once, you can accurately predict the expected temperature outcome of your mixed dough. Control of all dough-making elements will go a long way toward building consistency in your daily baking . 1. Use the DDT formula as usual to calculate the required water temperature. 2. Mix and knead the dough on 1st speed, just bringing it together so there is no visible flour, and then check the dough temperature. Write it down for future reference. 3. Knead the dough on 2nd or medium speed to develop the dough to a windowpane, and then check the finished mixed dough temperature. Write it down and subtract the initial dough temperature you recorded from bringing it together. 4. Calculate the difference in ℃ between your desired dough temperature and your actual mixed dough temperature. 5. Divide the temperature increase by the number of minutes you mixed the dough. 6. This will give you the friction factor temperature per minute the dough was mixed. Let’s examine a working example of mixing the dough on a KitchenAid mixer with a dough hook for 2 minutes on 1st speed and 10 minutes on 2nd/medium speed. ➢ Dough temperature, when brought together on 1st speed

18 ℃

➢ Dough temperature when mixed for 10 minutes 2nd speed

28 ℃

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The temperature rise difference between the two mixing phases in this example was 10℃ over 10 minutes; therefore, we have a friction factor of 1 ℃/minute mixed. We can apply this data to every other dough we mix. So, we can work out the DDT calculation for a dough and subtract 10℃ to allow for the friction increase in temperature. I have found that large, powerful spiral mixers and large batches of dough mixed in them will increase in temperature more than in stand/planetary mixers. However, the longer time required to mix the dough in a stand mixer will cause the dough temperature to increase as much friction takes place the longer the dough is mixed. To finish the discussion on individual mixers, when I started working at the Dublin Institute of Technology over 12 years ago, we had 8 identical medium spiral mixers. They were relatively new and all the same brand. The baked results were quite different when the students made Baguettes one day. The students complained that some doughs were warmer than others. So, I organised a calibration for each mixer for the next class. I gave each mixer a number, which I wrote on the side of each one with a permanent marker We scaled all ingredients simultaneously, and I prepared the dough, making water for the class. Hence, it was all the same temperature. We had a target DDT of 24 ℃ for the Baguette dough. We set the timers for the same mixing times and commenced mixing collectively. When the mixers stopped, the students immediately measured the dough temperatures and called them out to me. I recorded the temperatures registered for each machine. The results were amazing. Instead of being the same, the dough in some mixers was exactly 24 ℃, but in 1 mixer, the dough was 22 ℃ and in one mixer, 36 ℃. Each mixer had a different friction factor. So, armed with this information, I marked each machine with its friction factor. After that, we never had a problem achieving our desired dough temperature. The lesson learned here is that despite all mixers appearing to be the same, each one had a different friction factor. This could be due to the shaft warping over time or bearings being partly seized, generating excess heat. As a first step in nailing your DDT every time, take the time to work out your machine’s friction factor. Understanding the Dough Dough rheology is a specific science, and I do not intend to get into its science too deeply in this book. Laminated dough generally has a lower hydration level than bread or brioche dough. A good rule of thumb is to use 500 g of total liquid (water/milk/egg combined) per 1,000 g flour or 50% hydration. Suppose the dough is too soft (overhydrated). In that case, combining the dough and butter will be challenging as the dough will stretch/flow over the butter like the crest of a wave, giving a large lump of dough at the ends and the sides of the pastry block. If the dough is too tight, cracking and difficulty in processing will occur. If the dough is too warm, the butter will begin to soften/melt into oil, leading to poor lamination when the butter is placed on it. Additionally, if the dough is too cold, it will fracture when passed through a pastry sheeter as the dough will snap. Page | 37

If the butter is too cold, the butter will also crack, and improper layers which look marbled in appearance will form. The dough and butter should have a similar consistency and temperature, which will aid the formation of desired even layers throughout the pastry. The ideal temperature range for commencing dough lamination is between 1.1 °C – 3.3 °C. The dough is made the previous day and allowed to ferment, covered at room temperature for 45 minutes, then flattened/degassed, sealed in plastic, and placed in the refrigerator at 3 ℃. The dough should be cold fermented overnight for a minimum of 12 hours to allow the dough’s full development and the mixing process's gluten relaxation. The cold fermentation also develops the dough’s structure and aromatic qualities, giving the croissant pastry a distinctive taste and texture. The dough should be degassed by hand or through a reversible sheeter and placed in the freezer for 20 − 30 minutes to ensure it is at the optimum temperature for further processing. Additionally, this dough stretching in the sheeter further degasses the dough. It importantly causes protein alignment of the gluten in one direction. It is important to remember to rotate the pastry 90 ° at each lamination stage, i.e., the lock-in, the first fold, and any subsequent folds. This way, the pastry is stretched equally in different directions, eliminating shrinkage following the final sheeting. Care in the process ensures that the dough/butter layers’ laminated structure remains intact throughout the process. In summary, the pastry temperature should be controlled at all process stages to arrest fermentation during the lamination, sheeting and cutting steps. Fermentation should only recommence when the pastry is placed into the proofer to activate the yeast for the final fermentation phase.

Maintaining Sourdough Starter In some of the recipes in this book, I use my sourdough starter, “Covid Culture - 2020”, to add elasticity, acidity, and depth of flavour to the dough. It is refreshed with equal parts of water, flour, and sourdough. The ratio I use typically is 1:1:1. However, if I am making the sourdough to store in the refrigerator for a week; I often reduce the starter component to .just 10% of the flour weight. More food is then available for the sourdough to consume, and the reduced starter % also reduces the acidity of the sourdough. You will already know the sourdough process if you are a sourdough baker. I have included a full chapter with the recipe for a 100% sourdough starter and a hybrid variant using yeast and liquid sourdough later in the book; see recipe #22. Proofing Pastry at Work and in The Home Professional kitchens and bakeries will already have dedicated proofers for producing laminated pastry. They are essential tools for giving and maintaining consistency in production. Proofers are basically chambers which are sealed with both heat and humidity controls. They allow Page | 38

a controlled temperature to be held along with the humidity, which encourages fermentation and prevents a skin from forming on the surface of the pastry. The butter-laminated pastry should be proofed as follows: Temperature of 25 ℃ − 27. ℃ and at a Humidity setting of

75 − 80% Humidity

If the proof temperature is too high, the butter will melt and leak out of the proofing pastry, causing the layers of dough to stick together and preventing the croissants from developing a light, airy honeycomb. If the proof temperature is too low, the butter remains hard. It may break, and the croissants will have an irregular structure. The humidity should not be too high; if it is too moist, bubbles will form on the surface of the pastry during baking. If the humidity is too low, the pastry will skin, and the volume of the product will be reduced. I have used many proofers worldwide and advise you to look out for/avoid those cheap ones that heat water in a tank with electrical elements. These proofers are fine for bread. However, the critical temperature at which the butter melts (28 ℃ − 30 ℃) in laminated pastry makes these types of proofers difficult to work with. Often, the heating elements and water tank are on the bottom of the unit and trays of pastry placed on the bottom will quickly melt as the heat on the bottom is greater than the rest of the cabinet. You may also have to switch the unit off and on to control the temperature correctly. While the recipe, makeup, and shaping of croissant pastry are deemed by most as the hardest part of the process, all the demanding work invested in making it can be lost by incorrect proofing. The proofing process can be a deal-breaker whether you have a perfect honeycomb structure. Many home bakers do not have the luxury of temperature and humidity-controlled proofers to use as a tool in producing exceptional pastry. There is the small Brød & Taylor home proofer/yoghurt maker; I have posted a link in the online resources section at the end of the book. It is expensive but has great ratings from those who have purchased it. It can be used to make yoghurt, hold melted chocolate, and folds away to the size of a large book for storage when finished using it. If you cannot buy one, or it is not in the budget, don’t worry. Proofing can be achieved in a variety of ways. Live in a warm/humid climate, for example? Or work in a warm home or kitchen? Covering the pastries in a plastic bag to prevent skinning will work fine. You can avoid the proofing pastry from sticking to the plastic by standing inverted tall glasses spaced out on your baking trays. The pastry can also be placed (again covered) in a hot press or airing cupboard. Proofing can also be achieved using a domestic oven with a few careful procedures. I will outline a sample procedure on the following page. The thing to understand about proofing is that there are two especially crucial elements at play in the proofing process:

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1. Heat (to stimulate fermentation or gassing in the dough) 2. Humidity (to prevent dough skinning and allow maximum expansion in proof) The heat stimulates the yeast but cannot be too warm; otherwise, the yeast will perish. The butter layers will also melt if the temperature is too high. Humidity prevents the expanding pastry from skinning on the surface, so pastries can expand and grow. If there is no humidity, a thick skin will form on the outer surfaces, and the pastry will not be able to proof/expand properly due to the hard skin surrounding it. Most domestic ovens have a light. Check to see what temperature your oven generates with just the light left on after 1 hour. Use an accurate probe thermometer where possible. Reduce the time if it gets too hot after 1 hour (over 28 ℃ ). Additionally, many ovens have a defrost cycle which can be pre-programmed to exceptionally low temperatures of 20 ℃ − 30 ℃. Suppose these pre-sets exist on your domestic oven. In that case, humidity can be introduced by pouring boiling water into a small tray at the oven's bottom. Be sure to place your tray of pastries in the middle deck of the oven, pour the boiling water into the bottom tray and close the oven door. Remember that the butter layers will melt if the pastry exceeds the magic temperature of 28 ℃. Another straightforward way of proofing where you have adequate heat, and no humidity is to prove the pastries in a deep tin. Simply place the pastries into the deep pan shape, eggwash and wrap the baking tin tightly in clingfilm. Finally, no matter which technique you use to proof the pastry, it may take some hours, and patience is essential. Do not bake the pastry until you see the layers separating and the pastry jiggles like wobbly jelly when shaken gently. There are jiggle videos on my YouTube channel, and the links are in the resources section at the end of the book.

Baking Using Different Oven Types The heat source and balance of that heat in the oven are critical to getting a good bake. As the pastry heats up in the oven, the water in the dough and the butter layers vaporise from water into steam. As the steam trapped in the layers expands, the dough inflates, and the layers created separate from each other, giving volume to the pastry. Lipids in the butter fry the pastry, resulting in light, airy, flaky puff paste and Viennoiserie qualities. Bakers bake in different ovens all over the Page | 40

world. Some are domestic ovens for home baking, and some are commercial ovens built robustly for heavy-duty work. In my baking experiences in various countries, bakeries, and schools, all the ovens I have used have had their unique quirkiness for over three decades. To clarify my statement, ovens are made mainly of metal, insulation, glass, stone, and various electric or gas components to generate heat for baking. They have doors made of thermal glass, metal, or both, which allow the baker to load/unload and see into the baking chamber while baking. All ovens are screwed or welded together, metal on metal; over time, due to this expansion/contraction, the oven’s insulation and thermal efficiency can deteriorate. I am not covering brick or wood-fired ovens as they are generally not used for baking viennoiserie. All ovens are, by their nature, subjected to the extremes of heating and cooling daily. As ovens age, all this heating and cooling can cause the oven to be less efficient than a new oven as the metal in the ovens/door seals, the screws and welds holding it together, and heating elements suffer wear and tear with continued use. Insulation can also deteriorate, causing further heat differentials. Thermostats can again fail or give the baker erroneous readings of the actual oven temperature. A small stand-alone oven thermometer can be purchased in most kitchenware shops and verify an ovens existing thermometer's integrity. Ovens can develop hot and cold spots, and a baker using an oven daily gets to know their oven very well. The oven operator can see that perhaps the oven’s back left is cooler than the front left and knows to rotate the trays in this part of the oven halfway through the bake to get a consistent colour on a batch of baked goods. An infrared (IR) thermometer is an excellent and useful tool for measuring oven temperature. The book's baking temperatures reflect the oven temperatures I have baked with and my daily experience using commercial ovens. Most small viennoiserie pieces bake in deck ovens at 200 ℃ for roughly 20 minutes and in convection ovens at 175 ℃ for 16 – 18 minutes. Commercial electric multi-deck ovens also have separate controls for the heating elements of the top, bottom, and door of each deck in the oven. The controls range from a figure of 1 to 10 in baking intensity, with 1 being the lowest or gentlest heat setting and 10 being the most intense heat. The settings for baking viennoiserie on these deck ovens are Top heat 7, bottom heat 1 to 2, and door heat 6 to 7. But please remember that all ovens are different and heat/bake differently. Use a second stand-alone thermometer to check that the oven thermometer cross-checks and calibrates your oven. When you open the door, every oven will lose temperature, especially convection ovens. That said, fan ovens recover quicker than deck ovens and are the professionals’ choice of oven for baking viennoiserie. Viennoiserie generally has almost 1/3rd more volume when baked in a convection oven than the same product baked in a deck oven, this is due to the rapid recovery to temperature of convection ovens. The fan-accelerated air within can quickly penetrate the pastry, heats the core rapidly, and reduces bake time. Deck ovens are mainly used in baking bread and confectionery. Page | 41

They are not as good at baking Viennoiserie as a fan oven, as the heat method is known as a dead heat bake, i.e., heat conducted by the oven sole and roof via electrical elements on the top and the chamber itself. There is commonly no fan in a deck oven. Still, some superior and expensive commercial models also have fans for each deck. Deck ovens are better at retaining heat than convection ovens. Still, they can take exceedingly long to recover the heat lost while loading the oven if it is too low. I have witnessed an oven at 220 ℃, fully loaded with bread, drop to 150 ℃ and take 30 minutes to return to 220 ℃. Temperature and time considerations need to be made, whether you fully load an oven or are only baking one tray in the oven, as the partially filled oven will bake one tray faster than, say, three and lose less heat in loading. As the oven door is open for a shorter time, the weight of one tray and product will heat faster than three times that. For example, when you put a pastry tray into an oven, the metal tray's weight plus the pastries you are baking will rob the oven of some heat. The oven will lose 20 ℃ to 50 ℃, depending on the oven type and whether it is filled to capacity or only has one tray after loading. All these factors will determine the oven recovery time, which will be unique to your particular oven. The pastries will be baked at a much lower heat as the oven struggles to raise its temperature; the thermostat will always call for heat. The net result is a longer bake time, an inferior product, and a drier product, as baking at a lower temperature longer will dry out the product. A working example is when I fill my convection oven with croissants. 1. There are 6 trays at 800 g each = 4,800 g of metal 2. A total of 60 pastries at 70 g each= 4,200 g of pastry That’s 9,000 g of room temperature materials that require heating up to my bake temperature of 170 ℃. It’s like chucking ice into a drink. It cools the oven down rapidly. Transferring enough energy into the tins and product takes much time to return to the correct baking temperature. For example, I set the convection oven at 220 ℃, loaded it, closed the oven door, and reset the thermostat to 170 ℃ to bake my products. If I did not do this, the oven temperature would fall to 120 ℃, and the pastry would leak butter. The baked pastry would not be nice due to the longer bake time and drying out that occurs with extended time in an oven. They would lose that boldness in the bake that a sharp, hot oven gives to products. The oven I use drops over 50 ℃ after loading, so I always factor for this when baking. Becoming familiar with your oven is easy by simply measuring the oven temperature drop when loaded fully. An Infrared IR thermometer is an excellent tool for establishing this. Having finished the discussion on ovens, the science of how pastry rises during baking is discussed in the next chapter. Convection ovens are best as they heat faster, achieving 1/3rd more volume as the heat penetrates the pastry more quickly than deck oven baking. Page | 42

How Pastry Rises During Baking

The section below is a modified extract from one of the papers I published in the book Handbook of Molecular Gastronomy: Scientific Foundations, Educational Practices, and Culinary Applications (Burke et al., 2021). This edited version of the paper is presented here with thanks to my colleague Dr Roisin Burke who approved its inclusion in this book. Laminated viennoiserie pastry is made by rolling and folding butter/margarine or fat and a yeasted dough together to form a block of pastry containing many alternating layers of dough (brown) and butter (yellow), as seen above. Due to fermentation, the layers of dough expand (Hartings, 2016), and this expansion, along with the separation of sheets of dried butter, increases during the baking process. First, the yeasts (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) generate carbon dioxide gas bubbles that form an aerated dough. The bubbles are trapped by the dough's viscosity and the viscoelastic “gluten” network. The network is created during the first steps of dough making, when flour is kneaded with some water (and butter) (This, 2018). During baking in a hot oven, the surface of the fermented dough is heated, and the heat is transferred inward toward the interior centre by conduction ( (Dessev, et al., 2020) ), with five main effects: 1. the expansion of CO2 bubbles, 2. killing the yeasts when the temperature inside the dough is above 60 °C, 3. the vaporization of water from the dough, with steam separating the dough layers, 4. drying the dough and making crisp layers, 5. creating a colour at the surface of the pastry. Page | 43

(1). is a simple thermal expansion due to the increased velocity of CO2. and exceptionally large dough expansion. See the diagram below, which explains the mechanism of lift created during the baking of laminated pastry., The degree of lamination and the care shown during the lamination process define the volume and appearance of the baked product. It is sometimes said that, by egg washing the pastry before baking, the surface of the pastry is moistened, preventing the dough from forming a thick skin or crust initially; the function of the retarding effect of the egg wash on bakery products would be to delay the formation of crust and allows the pastry to achieve full volume (Peterson, 2012). However, an experiment prepared by Hervé This, did not corroborate this “culinary precision.”

Of course, the upper surface's colour is also important; glycation or Maillard reactions accelerate colour change during baking. It is due to protein degradation, as can be understood by comparing grilling (in a pan) flour and starch: only flour turns brown due to the presence of the proteins absent in the second case. Butter browning during baking contributes also. And of course, if sugar (sucrose) is added to the dough, caramelization can occur, and the baking temperature is higher than the 140 °C needed for caramel formation (Defaye, 1994; Luna and Aguilera, 2013). The Bakers’ Percentage Explained Many people simply have a blockage when it comes to numbers. I have many people who request online to explain the bakers’ percentage or bakers’ maths, as it is also known. If you can count to 10, you can do it! If you can count to 100, it will be the easiest thing you ever did. Bakers maths or Bakers% means that the main ingredient, flour in all their forms in a recipe, such as wholemeal, white, rye etc., is always 100%. All other components are measured against the quantity of flour in the recipe.

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While weight quantities can go up or down according to mix or batch sizes, the percentages will always remain constant. If you have a great recipe, it can be scaled up to commercial quantities or down for home baking quantities without the recipe altering in any way, as the percentages maintain the exact ratios of ingredients during the conversion. The hydration of dough is the percentage of total liquids in a recipe in relation to total flour weight. The usual liquids used in pastry making include water, egg, cream, and milk. I have included water and egg in this exercise to demonstrate hydration levels in a dough. Below, I set out an example of recipe conversion with bakers’ percentage, which can be applied to all recipes:

Sample Bread Recipe Expressed in Bakers% Ingredient Weight in g small recipe Bread flour 80 Wholemeal 20 Flour total: 100 Water Egg Hydration total: Salt Butter Fresh yeast

Bakers% 80% 20% 100%

Weight in g large recipe 8,000 2,000 10,000

68 5 73

68% 5% 73%

6,800 500 7,300

2 4 2

2% 4% 2%

200 400 200

To break down the recipe's main components, I have separately analysed two types of flour and liquid to accurately measure the dough’s hydration. The above example uses 100 g of flour in the recipe, 80% white flour and 20% wholemeal and is expressed as a combined total being 100%. Water 68% and egg 5% combine to give a collective hydration figure of 73%. All other ingredients are similarly expressed, salt 2%, butter 4%, and fresh yeast 2%. By examining the bakers’% at first glance, the baker can ascertain whether the dough is highly hydrated (over 70%) or, in the case of croissant dough, a stiff dough of 50% hydration. I have successfully made croissants with varying hydration levels depending on the flour types used in a pastry recipe. I recommend a hydration level of between 46%−57% depending on flour strength and flour’s adsorption ability (damaged starch in the milling process increases its adsorption abilities). Below is a viennoiserie recipe for croissant pastry I have used many times. I created an expanded recipe spreadsheet that includes all ingredients in the recipe, the weight in grams, and the Bakers% ingredient.

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I also include the batch yield, the total% butter in the pastry, which includes the butter in the dough, and lamination butter. Finally, I have colour coded the spreadsheet below − flour is gold, liquids are blue, and butter is yellow. The hydration is 50% in this sample recipe.

Core Temperature and Chilling Pastry Using Ice Blankets A crucial part of good pastry making is to control both the dough’s fermentation and the butter's temperature throughout the makeup process. It is essential to prevent pastry skinning or proofing throughout the lamination stage, as uneven layers will form in the pastry from this skin. Fermentation is delayed by using various means of cooling the pastry; the dough and the butter remain cool throughout the process. Industrial refrigerators, freezers, blast chillers and Cryopack® ice blankets are essential tools for pastry production. Many professional kitchens and bakeries have an airconditioned room to control the environmental temperature (16 ℃) for pastry consistency. Most home bakers do not have the luxury of such space or equipment. Even in many culinary schools lacking equipment such as blast chillers, it is widespread practice to simply wrap the pastry in a plastic sheet and chill it down on a metal tray in the freezer. Covering the pastry in a thick plastic sheet is essential to prevent frostbite on the surface. Additionally, the plastic keeps the pastry from becoming wet and sticky when using the ice blankets. When the pastry is chilled this way, the bottom part in contact with the frozen tray will cool rapidly through touching or conduction. The sides and top of the pastry take longer to chill as they rely on the circulation of chilled air or convection to cool them, which creates an imbalance in the chilling process. Often, the pastry's bottom, corners and edges begin to freeze quicker than the rest and cause problems when

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processing. The freezing is not even throughout the pastry block, and the pastry has different temperatures in different areas. The pastry must be chilled quickly and not frozen during the makeup process, as freezing damages water crystals in the dough and the water and fat crystals in the butter. If frozen, the dough portion of the pastry will split and crack. The butter element will become hard and brittle and shatter into pieces, giving a marbled aspect to the pastry and destroying the layers created in the makeup process. Pastry makers have often used two frozen metal trays to chill pastry down quickly. The trays, placed like a sandwich on the sheeted pastry top and bottom, quickly cool the pastry's outside layers. However, the pastry rapidly takes all the coldness out of the trays, and they need to be chilled several times again to be effective at maintaining a low temperature. A modern approach is to use “Cryopack® Ice Blankets.” These are available on Amazon and are worth the investment to serious pastry makers. For home bakers or hobbyists, two packs of frozen corn or peas work equally well as ice blankets for small quantities of pastry which is an inexpensive option and yields excellent results https://youtu.be/-WZ9w0gPjyg. I first saw the use of ice blankets in pastry processing in the mid-2000s. Used during the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie competitions in Paris. Ice blankets were used by Team USA’s viennoiserie candidate Peter Yuen and the Asian viennoiserie candidates. Ice blankets are excellent for rapidly chilling down laminated pastry as the pastry block is encapsulated top and bottom; physically touching the ice blanket. As a result of this direct contact between the pastry and the ice blanket, a very efficient, uniform, and rapid chilling of the pastry dough block is possible.

In the illustration on the next page, a folded block of pastry (gold) is illustrated with a book fold or a 4, wrapped in an ice blanket (blue). The pastry touches the ice blanket surface, and this direct Page | 47

contact chills the pastry down quickly. The thicker the pastry, the longer it takes to cool to the core. On the left side of the diagram, the pastry block is much thicker (30 mm) than the one on the right (15mm). The thick black line illustrates the core or centre of the pastry block. The pastry chills from the outside into the core; when wrapped in ice blankets, the pastry has the dual effect of cooling by the ice blanket's top and bottom. The pastry's thickness is important when inserted into the ice blanket; the thinner it is, the more rapidly it will chill down. In the diagram on the left, the ice blanket needs to chill through 15 mm of pastry top and bottom. There is a danger that the pastry will begin to move/proof in the core before the chilling of the ice blanket can influence it. The same pastry block is sheeted down to 15 mm on the right side of the illustration. The ice blanket must only chill through 7.5 mm of pastry to reach the core, so it cools twice as quickly. Therefore, I always recommend sheeting folded pastry between 12 mm − 15 mm before chilling it in the ice blankets. Core line or centre of pastry

Understanding Core Temperature in Proofing Pastry As discussed in understanding the core temperature in chilling pastry earlier, the centre of something is referred to as the core or the middle. Any pastry that is rolled up when shaping, such as croissant, pain chocolate, and pain aux raisin, will have a spiral profile with layers coiled on top of each other, a core, and an outside. Pastry is a poor conductor of heat, so its exterior will rise to the temperature of the proofer faster than its core. This problem is exacerbated by pastry shapes whose cores are far from their outsides, such as the croissant and pain au chocolat. The outside of the pastry in a proofer will slowly begin to heat up. The heat will take some time to permeate the pastry to the core. Croissant pastry is proofed at approximately 26 ℃ – 27 ℃ for 2 − 3 hours. It is impossible to prove croissant pastry at a higher temperature. The butter will melt inside the layers and turn to oil, destroying the layers created during lamination. As illustrated in the core pastry diagram on the next page, the outside surface begins to heat up and proof. It takes time for the proofer heat to get to the pastry's core and heat it. A Honeycomb crumb structure is a good indicator of a successfully proofed pastry. A thick, gummy, non-aerated core indicates insufficient proof time and baking the pastry before the pastry core has opened out and was fully proofed. It is the most common fault in baking laminated yeasted pastry. Page | 48

Recipes Used in This Publication I have relied on many different recipes in this book. All of them work very well and have slight variances between them. I do not have one favourite recipe, as they all serve to further my existing studies and understanding of pastry making. Professional and home bakers will also have their favourite recipes and secret ingredients. Still, they can apply many of the book's techniques to improve the outcomes of their products and procedures. Knowledge, practice, and consistency are key to perfecting laminated pastry making. Hydration of 48% – 53% of the dough will give a dough easy to handle and hold its form and shape easily. My target hydration is approximately 50% for most of the laminated pastry I make with a blend of Foricher T-45, Irish flour, or Italian Caputo Red. However, this may require adjustment depending on the country, the flour available, and the flour's strength. If you increase hydration beyond this, the dough is sticky and requires a lot of dusting flour. It does not keep its shape well and will flow in proof spreading out on the tray as it bakes and not as bold as lower hydrated pastry. The visibility of layers is also affected by increased hydration, something to consider! Processing Factors ⮚ A poolish preferment may be used in the main dough at 10% − 25% dough weight if your flour is extraordinarily strong, adding elasticity and flavour to the dough. Adjust for hydration. ⮚ Pâté fermentée added 10% − 25% to the dough, adding flavour and elasticity. ⮚ Dough mixing times mentioned have been detailed in a previous section on dough mixing and using different mixers used by professional and home bakers. ⮚ After mixing, the dough is covered with plastic and given 45 minutes of bulk fermentation at room temperature. Sheet out the dough to between 12 mm − 15 mm. Wrap the dough in plastic and place it in the refrigerator overnight at a temperature of between 3 ℃ − 4 ℃ for at least 12 − 16 hours. ⮚ A cold fermentation process gives the best flavour, and both relaxes and strengthens the dough, imparting good elasticity for processing and lamination ⮚ Dough hydration should be between 48% − 53%, depending on the type of flour used. Page | 49

⮚ The dough and butter should have the same consistency when sheeting. ⮚ Upon taking the fermented dough from the refrigerator in the morning, DO NOT KNEAD/MANIPULATE THE DOUGH! Otherwise, you will toughen the dough, and it will shrink from elastic recoil. ⮚ Simply flatten it down with a rolling pin, sheet the dough to 7 mm, wrap it in plastic, and place it in the freezer for 20 – 30 minutes. ⮚ The dough should be chilled to as close to 2 ℃ − 3 ℃ before locking in the butter. ⮚ Butter should ideally be shaped into one thin rectangular block the day before and stored in a refrigerator. Before use, remove the butter from the refrigerator and leave it aside for a few minutes to soften slightly. It should be malleable, like putty and not hard or brittle. Bend it before placing it on the dough. If the butter is stiff, wait a few minutes or gently tap it with a rolling pin to plasticise it before putting it in the lock-in dough. ⮚ A YouTube video tutorial on how to make the butter block on a sheeter is attached in the links below ⮚ The butter is ready for lamination when of plastic consistency at 7 ℃ − 12 ℃. Prod the butter with a finger, and if the finger makes an indentation without melting it, it is ready for use (see it in the video). ⮚ The butter and dough in the pastry increase in temperature due to outside atmospheric temperature and the friction of rolling the dough. On mechanical sheeters, the pastry's temperature can increase by as much as 1 ℃ per pass from the mechanical friction alone. How To Prepare a Butter Block on My YouTube Channel I have included several resources on butter block preparation on my YouTube Channel. ➢

Follow the link for butter block made on Sheeter: https://youtu.be/Cj0gEXtXexw

➢

Follow the link for butter block made by hand: https://youtu.be/KI7VTQQISFw Lock-In and Lamination Numbering System There is much confusion over the names, the types of folds used, and the number of folds used

in pastry making. The Universal Numbering System is more accurate and appropriate for describing and defining how the pastry is folded after the butter is added to the dough. Numbers are international and provide a global understanding of lamination sequences. The first stage is always known as the lock-in phase. The lock-in number will always appear as the first, for example, a 3 or a 5 in this book to instil the Universal Numbering System's learning objective. There are two composite ingredient components in laminated pastry-making systems: 1. A dough component 2. A fat/butter component The two components mentioned above are the same for a croissant/Danish/puff pastry production. The only difference is that the dough is yeasted in the case of croissant dough. For lamination to occur, the butter/fat must be encapsulated into the dough, locked in, and referred to as the first number in the sequence of pastry making. The first number in the pastry laminating Page | 50

system is always the lock-in number, where you “lock-in” the butter block between the dough, sandwiching the butter block between layers of dough Dough Touching Points/Dough Contact Points If you take a piece of dough in your fingers, stretch it, fold it over on itself and compress/squeeze it, it does not form two separate layers of dough. Many have experienced this phenomenon as children while chewing and stretching gum in our mouths and fingers. The force of compression on the dough and the dough's stickiness causes the two outside dough layers to bond and become one dough layer. Applying this principle to croissant pastry making, as the dough encapsulates the butter and is rolled out to create a thin pastry sheet, the dough always remains outside the pastry. The butter is always remaining in between the formed dough layers. When the sheeted dough is folded into a book form 4 or a half fold 3, the outside dough layers stack on top of each other, and I refer to these two layers or pleats of dough as a “Dough Touching Point” or DTP for short. When compressed by rolling, the two dough-touching points become one layer of dough. As a result, you must factor in this disappearance of one layer when calculating the total layers in the pastry during each folding process. The formula is straightforward. You subtract one layer from each dough touching point's total number of layers. Maths become easy since the most common folding forms are 4-fold or 3fold. Applying this principle to any number of folds following the lock-in, the following numbers apply for exact layer calculation. ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚

A 6-fold has five Dough Touching Points A 5-fold has four Dough Touching Points A 4-fold has three Dough Touching Points A 3-fold has two Dough Touching Points A 2-fold has one Dough Touching Point

minus 5 layers minus 4 layers minus 3 layers minus 2 layers minus 1 layer

Terms Used in Various Culinary Books when Making Laminated Pastry Before fully introducing the Universal Numbering System in detail, I want to discuss other layercounting methods. I have included several tables in this section for comparison purposes to avoid confusion, provide a correct understanding, and translate the common terms and systems used for making laminated pastry. Page | 51

There are many other layer counting systems, such as counting only the fat layers formed or using the Simple Multiplication System published in many cookbooks, online pages, blogs, and social media pages. Some, but not all, of these systems, are misleading, as the number of layers counted using a simple multiplication system is incorrect. Here are some of the commonest descriptive words used when making laminated pastries in cookbooks and culinary manuals. ➢ Lock-in – Locking in the butter between layers of dough before sheeting. This is a foundation step, the beginning of the process and commencing the count of layers formed. ➢ French method – Wrapping the butter top and bottom 3 layer lock-in − Dough/Butter/Dough ➢ English method – Butter placed over 3/4 of the dough, folded to give 5-layer lock-in, Dough/Butter/Dough/Butter Dough ➢ Book fold/Full fold/Four fold/ 4 − fold ➢ Simple fold/Half fold/Letter fold/Three fold/ 3 – fold ➢ Half fold (pastry folded in half) /2 – fold (not commonly used). Some Points of Note on The Lock-In: ➢ The incorporation of the butter between layers of dough is known as the lock-in ➢ When the dough and butter components are merged, they become pastry ➢ The French Lock−in has 3 layers (Dough/Butter/Dough) ➢ The English Lock−in has 5 layers (Dough/Butter/Dough/Butter/Dough) ➢ The inverse pastry will have the reverse to items 3 & 4 as the butter will be outside ➢ There is no such thing as a 4 Lock-in (I see this regularly on social media, posted by those who do not fully understand proper lock-in numbers, and it is misleading to readers). ➢ Inverse lock-in works the same as conventional lock-in, but the butter is on the outside In the next section, we will compare the diverse ways of counting layers in pastry. These are the three which will be discussed 1. The Universal Lamination System 2. The Simple Multiplication system 3. Counting the fat layers only* Note: My friend Allen Cohn has written an excellent document on counting the fat layers only titled BUNS or Butter Universal Numbering System. You can find a copy of his paper in the Files section of my FaceBook page, The Art of Lamination and Laminated Pastry with Jimmy Griffin.

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Keeping Count of The Number of Folds Made on The Pastry

A simple indentation made with your finger following each pastry fold will remind you what stage you are at in the pastry block production. This system also works well if there is more than one person in the bakery or pastry kitchen making the pastry together on a production line. The illustration above was made by giving puff paste six single turns. The Universal Numbering System Assumptions for the tables in the following pages, Lock-in is dough on the outside, butter on the inside. Dough layers will always be twice the butter layers + 1 layer in folded pastry.

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When using The Universal Numbering system of layer calculation, we consider that dough touching points exist, where the outer layer of dough is folded onto another layer of dough in the pleating or folding of the pastry. When the pastry is sheeted out, the two dough layers merge into one layer and become a single dough layer. To see this in action, take a strip of croissant dough, fold it onto itself and compress it between your finger and thumb; the two layers will merge, and no layer is formed. To summarise Universal Lamination: ➢ 3-fold, you have two dough-touching points ➢ 4-fold, you have three dough-touching points ➢ 5-fold, you have four dough-touching points Consequently, we need to subtract the total dough touching points from the overall calculation/multiplication in the lamination system used, represented in the tables on the previous page. Counting the Fat Layers Counting the Fat layers is customary practice in many European bakery schools and culinary schools. Following the Lock-in, the pastry will have 1 layer of fat if using the French method and 2 layers of Fat if using the English Method. All subsequent folds calculate the increasing number of layers built up during the lamination process. The table below represents how to count the fat layers only. In the case of a 3-4-3, the fat layers are 12 (with 13 layers of dough). Assume 1 layer of butter in 3- fold and 2 layers of butter in a 5-fold. Multiply Lock-in fat layers × 1st and following folds.

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Simple Multiplication System Suppose using the Simple Multiplication System, which continually multiplies the number of layers from the lock-in (3 or 5) by the type of fold (3 or 4). The alleged layer count grows exponentially and is not a true reflection of the actual layers formed in the pastry.

When summarising all three previous tables, you can see on the next page that in the presented tables for various lamination sequences, there are significant differences between the various systems. The differences in calculated layers and inherent errors are exasperated when calculating puff pastry, where many more layers must be calculated. The outcome will be the same irrespective of how you count the layers. However, I think it is important to understand layer formation and exact layer count as layer quantities determine the crumb structure and the visible external layers of the pastry. You can design/predict the internal structure and the external appearance by deciding on the lamination sequence before pastry production.

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As mentioned, when you apply these notation systems of layer calculation to puff pastry, where many more folds are given to the pastry, the measure of layers error goes off the scale. I have included many popular lamination methods for the pastry-making systems mentioned to demonstrate the differences between the systems, and the large discrepancies between the various methods. It is important to recognise that the Universal Numbering System and the Total Fat Layer calculation methods are the only accurate ways of precisely calculating the correct and relevant layers created in lamination. Inverse Pastry Layers The question of Inverse Pastry layers is repeatedly asked. Do they work the same as normal pastry when counting the layers? The answer is simple, once you understand how layers are formed, merged, and calculated, the universal numbering system applies just the same to the Page | 56

production of inverse pastry. Instead of having dough touching points on the external layers, you have butter layers or Butter Touching Points (BTP). When the external layers are folded on top of each other in the lamination process, they merge as the pastry is sheeted, forming one layer of butter. So, the calculations of subtracting Butter Touching Points or BTPs in inverse pastry are the same as those we make for DTP. The diagram below, a 5-lock-in is illustrated, with two layers of dough and three layers of butter in the pastry block.

The photo below shows an inverse 3 lock-in. You can see the two butter layers on the outside, and the dough is encapsulated in the centre. This technique is used in recipe #33 for Galette Des Rois.

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Pastry-Making Systems Discussion Before laminated pastry is made, it is important to understand that there is much conflicting information on how it is made and processed in the thousands of books on the subject. Many of the texts are misleading on layer counting and analysis. To simplify and remove any confusion, while there are countless ways of assembling dough and butter layers to create pastry, there are 4 basic and more common methods of incorporating the dough and butter components. These are mentioned in the previous chapter, and what they all have in common is that THEY ARE NOT PASTRY MAKING SYSTEMS!! It is particularly important to grasp this concept. I will explain this in the next section. Later in the book, I will go into more detail on different pastry-making systems. Layering quantities will differ for puff pastry as it relies solely on mechanical aeration and does not have the benefit of yeast to raise it in the proofer or oven. Consequently, it requires far more layers to achieve a sufficient volume. In this discussion, the example used will be Croissant pastry. I will cover other pastry systems later in the book chapters. Lock-in and Understanding the Lock-in The Lock-in is the very first stage of making laminated pastry, and frequently in textbooks, this factor is often not mentioned, explained, or counted. Consequently, underlamination (not enough layers created) and over-lamination (too many layers created) causes the finished pastry to be inferior

Rotate 90°

Seam

quality. Remember that the four commonly quoted terms, English, French, Scotch, and

Belly

Inverse methods, are all lock-in methods, not pastry-making systems. The photo above shows a 3-lock-in sandwich method with a central dough seam. When sheeting the pastry from the lock-in, the pastry block needs to be rotated through 90° and rolled in the direction of the seam. You will also notice on the left and right edges of the lockin that there is a curved edge which I call a belly. The belly should face the direction of your belly when sheeting on a pastry sheeter and should be rolled in the direction of the arrows described on the next page. During processing, such as the lock-in and subsequent sheeting; the pastry needs to exhibit at the same time both elasticity- the ability to stretch without tearing; and plasticity, the ability to hold a formed shape without contracting due to excess elasticity. Page | 58

Roll the pastry in the direction of the blue arrows

Before sheeting, the bellies should be cut with a sharp knife to expose the butter. This cutting releases the elastic tension in the dough, helping the pastry maintain a straight and rectangular shape throughout the sheeting process. Below I outline the various commonly used methods for incorporating butter into the dough component to commence laminated pastry making. 1. The English Method (Lock-in 5) 2. The French Method (Lock-in 3) 3. The Scotch or Blitz method (no lock-in) 4. The Inverse method (Butter on the outside; can be a Lock-in 3 or Lock-in 5) I use an abbreviated form of The French Method, and I call this : 5. The Sandwich Method (lock-in 3 but butter exposed on all 4 sides, folded in the centre) 6. The Fold-over Method (The lock in 3 dough is folded over the butter and closed on one end). So, the baker must choose the lock-in sequence they require for the pastry they want to make. In this case, we will assume that we are using a 3-4-3 pastry-making system ➢ 3 lock-in ➢ a 4-turn ➢ a 3-turn

The 4-4-4 is the industry standard for croissants. In any case, don’t get hung up as this method is only an example of the choices available widely in the industry. 1st Sheeting Once the butter and dough lock-in is completed using the sandwich method(3 layers), the pastry should be rotated 90° and sheeted toward the seam. A predetermined sequence of reduction sheeting and folding is performed to build up layers. It is essential not to reduce the thickness too rapidly during reduction sheeting. Ensure the pastry is not rolled too thin (< 4mm). Ensure the pastry temperature is cool so the butter does not melt. Finally, rest the pastry in the refrigerator to cool and avoid the butter melting.

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The pastry should be sheeted down to 4 mm. Sheeting should be done gently and progressively. You don’t want to break the forming layers of butter and dough. You want to extend them together so that, just like building blocks stacked on top of each other, they will form even and solid layers to produce beautiful flaky layers on the outside and a light and lacy honeycomb interior. Additionally, the resting period enables the stretched gluten to soften and relax. This prevents shrinkage in the finished pastry. 1st Folding/Pleating Once the 1st sheeting is complete, the pastry chef/baker has many options. The pastry sheet can be folded in many ways, such as 9, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3 or 2, to create an individual lamination style. The two most used systems are 1. The book turn/four fold/full fold or simply a 4-fold (can also be an off-set 4) 2. The half turn/letter fold/simple fold/simple turn/half fold or simply a 3-fold The pastry will be easy to roll out at this stage, as the dough has been rested and has not been sheeted before; therefore, there will be little resistance to the sheeting. For this example, we will fold the

Rotate 90°and sheet in direction of arrows

pastry in 4 once it is sheeted. Remember to rotate the pastry block through 90° when commencing the next sheeting process. 2nd Sheeting Taking the block of pastry with its 4-fold, we rotate through 90° so the belly faces us, cut the bellies, and employ a process of reduction sheeting and folding again to build up even more layers. It is essential not to reduce the thickness during sheeting too rapidly. Ensure that the pastry is not

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rolled too thin (< 5 mm). Ensure the pastry temperature is kept cool by storing it in the refrigerator so the butter does not melt. Finally, rest the pastry to relax and cool it to avoid the butter melting. The pastry should be sheeted down to 5 mm. Sheeting should be done gently and progressively. Once more, you don’t want to break the forming layers of butter and dough. You want to extend them together so that, like building blocks stacked on each other, they will form a structure supporting the pastry during shaping, proofing, and baking. 2nd Folding/Pleating Once the 2nd sheeting is complete, the pastry chef/baker has many options. The pastry sheet can be folded in many ways, such as 9, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3 or 2, to create a specific lamination style. The two most used systems are:

1. The book turn/four fold/full fold or simply a 4-fold (can also be an off-set 4) 2. The half turn/letter fold/simple fold/simple turn/half fold or simply a 3-fold In this case, the pastry will be folded in 3. The pastry will be more difficult to roll out because the gluten was stretched in the previous sheeting and 4-fold. The elastic resistance in the pastry will increase. Finished Pastry Block The finished pasty block should be wrapped in plastic and chilled for between 60 and 90 minutes. Place the pastry for a half hour in the freezer, followed by half to 1 hour in the refrigerator. The pastry is then ready for its final sheeting or 3rd sheeting. It should be cold, not frozen, and flexible. 3rd and Final Sheeting The chilled/rested pastry block is taken from the refrigerator and rotated so the belly faces you. The bellies are cut, and reduction sheeted to a thickness of 3.5 mm – 4 mm. If the pastry starts to shrink at this stage, it will become thicker than what you sheeted it to, especially if the pastry is made with strong flour or not rested enough. Shrinking is caused by a phenomenon I call elastic recoil. The gluten acts similarly to how a stretched elastic band tries to return to its original shape by contracting. To overcome elastic recoil at this production stage, the pastry must be chilled for 15 – 20 minutes before cutting; otherwise, the pastry's size and shape will vary considerably. Cut the triangles and refrigerate for 20 minutes, covered on a baking tray in the refrigerator before baking. Finished Pastry The finished pastry can now be sheeted, shaped, proofed and baked to complete the process. It may also be retarded overnight or deep frozen for later use. Page | 61

The Need to Rotate Pastry Through 90 ° On Each New Sheeting Fold When making all types of laminated pastry, it is essential to rotate the pastry block at a 90° angle on each rolling stage throughout the process after folding. The science behind this is that the gluten matrix aligns in a two-dimensional phase and forms long elastic chains when stretched in one direction. If you can imagine, as a child, having an elastic band in your hand and you pull it, then release the tension, the elastic band returns to the shape it has been formed into. However, if you keep stretching it harder and harder, the elastic band will eventually snap and shatter. The elastic band’s return to its original shape is known as elastic recoil. This can be seen when making pastry as a shrinking of the sheeted pastry when folding or cutting. The elastic limit of a rubber band is the limit at which it will snap and lose its original form if stretched beyond this point. Dough reacts similarly during lamination. By rotating the pastry through 90° each time you are sheeting the pastry, you stretch and realign the dough’s gluten matrix at a right angle to the previous pastry-making stage. Resting is also more important as it allows the pastry block time to recover its elasticity from the rolling and sheeting phases. Following the lock-in, the pastry is sheeted and folded. The black arrows in the diagram below indicate the direction the pastry's gluten matrix is being stretched. Preventing shrinkage is vital to balance the elasticity and create an elastic equilibrium throughout the pastry. The pastry must be stretched equally in all directions, hence the need to rotate the pastry 90° during each sheeting cycle. The arrows in the diagram indicate the gluten matrix's stretching and resistance, or elastic recoil acting in the pastry as it is processed.

As

the

gluten

matrix stretches, so does it develop resistance and pull back, much like stretching and releasing an elastic band. In

this

way,

an

elastic

equilibrium is established within the pastry, and the pastry is in balance. Shrinking is neutralised by even forces acting within the pastry by this gluten matrix . Therefore, it must be rotated and sheeted in opposite directions during the make-up process, stabilizing elasticity and plasticity Dough and Butter Block Sizes Most of the recipes in this book are designed for teaching classes and small-scale home production. Still, all can be scaled up to produce much larger quantities. Thousands of bakers and pastry chefs worldwide use the recipes from the 1st edition successfully in their businesses. A common question asked is what size the butter or dough should be shaped to. Most new recipe formats use a butter weight of 200 g – 300 g and a dough weight of 840 g − 950 g.

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For the 3-lock-in, I recommend a simple rule of thumb. Prepare the butter blocks into 5 mm thick rectangles, 250 mm high, × 170 mm wide. Then roll the dough to be a little more than twice the width of the butter and the same height. A pinched seam is used to seal the butter in the dough. The process is known as the sandwich method. The butter should be visible on the ends. These quantities will give you dough dimension of approximately 350 mm wide and 250 mm high.

350 mm 250 mm

1st Sheeting Size and 4−fold: Following the lock-in, sheet the pastry to 4 mm thickness. It will measure 900 mm long × 220 mm high. When folded into a 4−fold, the pastry block will measure approximately 230 mm high × 220 mm wide. The pastry was sheeted to 4mm thick and folded into a 4−fold. The pastry block will be 16 mm thick. 2nd Sheeting Size and 3−fold: Take the pastry block and sheet it down to 5mm. As the pastry builds up elastic tension, it will be more difficult to roll and will not roll out as long as the 1st sheeting. Additionally, I recommend sheeting down to 5mm for this process phase. The pastry sheet should now measure 840 mm long × 230 mm high. The pastry is then given a 3-fold and will now measure approximately 280 mm long × 230 mm high. The pastry now has a 3-fold and was sheeted to 5 mm thick. The pastry block will be 15 mm thick. I recommend sheeting the pastry to 12 mm thick at this stage as the pastry block is thin and can chill down easily as the core is not so thick and will arrest fermentation swiftly. These approximate sizes will depend on how extensible your dough is and how strong the flour you have used in your recipe. They are valid and approximate measurements and depend on sheeting down to the exact thicknesses I have suggested for the process. Make sure the pastry is well chilled and rested before Page | 63

the final sheeting. Roll the pastry out to 300 mm – 350 mm wide for croissant, sheeting down to between 3.5 mm and 4 mm. If making Pain au Chocolat, sheet to 4 mm thick and 300 mm-320 mm high, then cut 8 mm wide × 15mm −16mm long.

3-4-3 System Process Overview The 3-4-3 system is the most popular and widely used lamination sequence worldwide. It is used for croissants, pain aux raisins, chocolatines, and other pastry types. When completed, the pastry will have 25 alternating layers of dough and butter. It produces a lovely leafy exterior and a honeycomb interior. While many stages and ingredient choices are used in making laminated pastry, overleaf is a bulleted introduction and overview of the procedures/sequence/sequences used to turn raw materials of dough and butter into a finished pastry block. I will cover different recipes and several different lamination systems in later chapters of the book, such as: 1. 2. 3. 4.

3-4-3 (3-3-4) (5-6) 5-4-3 3-4-4 3-3-3 / 3

25 layers (all have the same quantity of layers) 49 layers 33 layers (used for Chocolatine) 55 layers (the symbol / indicates a mandatory rest period)

Additionally, I will cover twin lamination, cross lamination, multi-colour cross lamination and bicolor pastries. These specific lamination systems will be explained in greater detail. Classic croissant making typically employs the 3-4-3 system. Once the first stage, the lock in is complete, the pastry is sheeted (rolled out into a thin sheet) and folded into pleats of pastry. The pleats form a rectangular block. The purpose is to build up a structure of alternating dough/butter/dough layers. When combined with controlled fermentation, these alternating layers give the pastry its structure and impart flakiness and lightness. It is most important to always completely wrap the pastry in plastic to prevent the outer dough surface's skinning throughout the process. I have included a YouTube video on how to do this properly. The basic steps employed for a 3-4-3 system are as follows: ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚

Mixing of the dough and preparation of the butter block while the dough mixes Overnight fermentation of the dough in a refrigerator 3 ℃ − 4 ℃ Pinning out the dough into a rectangle and placing the butter block on the dough Sealing the butter block between two layers of dough (3 lock-in) like a sandwich Locking in the butter between the dough to create alternate dough/butter layers Sheeting out the lock-in to a thickness of approximately 4 mm The 1st fold of the pastry using a 4-fold (book fold) Resting the pastry in the freezer Sheeting out the pastry with its 1st fold to a thickness of approximately 5 mm The 2nd fold or folding of the pastry using a 3-fold (half turn) Pinning the pastry out to 12 mm and covering it in plastic Page | 64

⮚ Resting the pastry block in the freezer ⮚ Sheeting out the pastry in preparation for cutting and shaping the pastry ⮚ Proofing of the pastry; eggwashing the pastry; baking and cooling. Production of Laminated Croissant Pastry − Sample Recipe I have included many recipes in my book, all of which are tried and tested. I suggest you try the base recipe below first for the sample recipe. ⮚ ⮚

Disperse yeast, sugar, and egg in the water, whisk together with a hand whisk Add liquid to the flour and other ingredients and mix into a dough. Dough Stage

Sieve the flour, milk powder and salt, and rub the butter into the flour. The dough should be mixed on a 20-quart Hobart-type mixing machine using a dough hook attachment. Mixing times of 2 minutes on 1st and 6 minutes on 2nd speed is recommended (Yankellow, 2005). But as always, different flour characteristics will determine mixing times. The dough's shorter mixing time allows for the shearing action that the dough will encounter when final processing through the pastry sheeter or with a rolling pin is given to the dough. The mixed dough should be kneaded into a ball, placed into a container to hold the dough during the cold fermentation process, and sealed tight or covered with plastic to prevent skinning (Yankellow, 2005). The dough should be fermented for 45 minutes at room temperature, rolled into a rectangle 10 mm thick, and covered in plastic, followed by overnight fermentation in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ − 6 °C (Vernet, 2020). The focus of this book is butter croissant pastry. Still, vegan croissants can easily be made by substituting the milk/egg/butter in the recipes with water/dairy-free/egg-free ingredients and pastry margarine or vegan butter for the lamination. The book will devote recipes and a section to vegan croissants later. In the next section, I will detail mostly all recipes in bakers% format, as seen in the example below with an abbreviated method and process. Most recipes of 1 mix quantity can be mixed on a KitchenAid-type stand mixer with a dough hook attachment. If you haven’t milk powder, just use all milk in your recipe. This base recipe will make all the pastries in the book. The other recipes are variants of this tried and tested formula that works well. If you use a KitchenAid or similar-sized mixer with a dough hook attachment, the 1 mix quantities will work well. All mixing times in the recipes are for Kitchen Aid/ Spiral mixers. All doughs may also be mixed by hand if you feel like a good workout. As the recipes are all in bakers% format, too, they can be scaled up to commercial bakery sizes made with kilos of flour or even reduced to 1/4 size mixes without any difference in the quality. Baking is a science; use a good digital scale and weigh all recipes with precision for consistency. The same applies to the process; mix for the same time each time and make your dough to suit your environment. Take the time to work out the correct water temperature to get the right Desired Dough Temperature (DDT). If sheeting with a pastry sheeter, be consistent; use the numbers I provided when reducing and sheeting the pastry. Page | 65

Most of all, have fun with the process. Now that we have discussed the ingredients, the process, the recipe, and some of the techniques, Pastry Sheeters and Settings

Sheeters have replaced the manual rolling of pastry dough in the industry. Sheeter’s work using a reduction rolling principle, where the gage or distance between the rollers is gradually reduced to a pre-determined thickness on each pass of the pastry through the rollers. There is a stop function which, when set, locks the rollers from going any smaller than your pre-set lock size. Roller size adjustments are mostly indicated in mm. While many of you will still hand-laminate their pastry, many also operate sheeters to make their pastry. I must include a chapter on the use of sheeters, as they are a universal tool used extensively by students, bakers, pastry chefs and teachers. I have never seen sheeter settings documented in any textbook, so I have decided to break the mould and have included the settings I use daily. I mentioned that I have also used Rondo Pastry sheeters worldwide to make the laminated pastry. I find them to be excellent machines. One Rondo I had lasted over 30 years, and I only had to change its belts once. All sheeters sheet the dough or pastry down to a specific thickness on each fold sequence using a reduction wheel calibrated numerically in millimetres from 30 mm to 1 mm. Larger machines have 45 mm or more comprehensive settings. Still, usually, it will be the smaller numbers that are mostly in widespread use. There is normally a locking adjustment to pre-set the rollers to a gap measured in mm. When using this function, the pastry will remain at the pre-set thickness programmed into the sheeter setting. It will not sheet any thinner, preventing the operator from sheeting too thinly and giving the pastry a predetermined thickness for consistency of weight and yield.

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The RS101 Manual Sheeter

Suppose you cannot afford or don’t need an electric pastry sheeter. In that case, several newer options are now available in the marketplace. In particular, a Japanese company, Japan Kneader Co., Ltd. (also distributed by Brot & Taylor), now produce two manual sheeters. If you are considering investing in a home manual sheeter, look no further! They make two models, the Dough Sheeter RS101 (up to 1000 g pastry capacity) and the RS201. (Up to 2000 g pastry capacity). The sheeter can be used for sheeting pastry, cookie dough, shortcrust pastry etc. and is very versatile. Many users on my FaceBook page already own this neat little machine, and all sing its praises. The RS101 is beautifully engineered from quality materials to an exceedingly high standard of finish. It consists of the rolling unit, a detachable handle, two detachable stainless steel guide supports, a sheeting board and a storage bag so it can be tidied and easily stored away when not in use. Assembly and disassembly take only a few seconds. Simply place the unit on a work surface and position the two stainless steel guides on the roller unit in the slots provided. Then open the rollers to the widest position. Insert the board and the roller handle, position the unit to the edge of the table or work surface so you can rotate the handle, and you are good to go. Place the pastry on the board, then place one hand on the rotating handle and Page | 67

the other on the top black bar to hold the unit when you wind the handle. Under test with the RS101, I could sheet 1000 g of laminated pastry to a thickness of 3.5 mm and 300 mm high × 600 mm in length, the total size of the board. The sheeter breaks down into small pieces for storage. The unit does not come with the sheeting board. Be sure to get a price for both the machine and the board. You will also need to allow shipping to your country of origin. Their Instagram account is @kneader_official_en. You will find further information and videos to see the unit in action here. Here is a link to their webpage Dough Sheeter RS101 | Japan Kneader Co., Ltd. Several international colleagues have been singing its praises, so I just had to try it myself. I found it to be great for small quantities of pastry. Easy to assemble, use, disassemble, clean and store. If you struggle with the rolling pin, it's worth having one for home or a small production. I recommend you dust the pastry every two layering sequences by simply lifting the pastry sheet off the board and applying some dusting flour on the pastry. Then flip the pastry over each time, ensuring it has some flour dust on both outer surfaces and that the pastry is not sticky. Additionally, I lent my model to some of my students, and they absolutely loved it. The students used the RS101 model for their evaluations, and their feedback was that the RS101 was an excellent machine. They loved the versatility, design, and easy use of the unit. The RS101 is now definitely on their shopping list. One final and crucial point of note, if you own one or plan to buy one, as with all pastry sheeters, do not cut/trim the pastry on the board, as you may damage it. When you finish a sheeting cycle, remove the pastry from a table or chopping board to cut/trim the pastry. Go check it out! Pre-Lock-In 3-4-3 Pastry Height Discussion I recommend a starting point and practising the 3-4-3 system to begin pastry production. When you become familiar, you can try other lamination systems of different numbering systems. The pastry can also be hand-laminated at all stages of production. If you use a sheeter, sheet the dough to approximately 7 mm and the butter to approximately 5 mm thick. When the lock-in is made, the dough block will have two dough layers of 14 mm (7+7) and one of butter of 5 mm thick, giving the lock-in a height of −19 mm, which will easily pass through the 30 mm sheeter rollers. When hand rolling croissant dough, the pastry's height is not such an issue for initial sheeting height. Most basic reversible pastry sheeters have rollers that only open to 30 mm, but bigger high-capacity sheeters, as previously mentioned, open to 45 mm. Lock-In and First 4-Fold Sheeting Settings Overview My advised sheeter settings for sheeting the lock-in are as follows: The block of pastry should be prepared as the sandwich method, reduced gradually, descending in units of 5mm to 10 mm, then smaller increments of 2 mm from 10 mm downwards as the pastry gets thinner. Ensure the

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stop button has been engaged to prevent the pastry from being pinned too thinly. Use dusting flour sparingly. Brush off all excess flour before sheeting, or it will cause gaps and an ugly internal crumb. ⮚ 30 mm ⮚ 25 mm ⮚ 20 mm ⮚ 15 mm ⮚ 10 mm ⮚ 7 mm ⮚ 5 mm ⮚ 4 mm Then fold as required (4)

The stop button

Reducing the pastry block to 4mm ensures the butter is correctly incorporated between the two dough layers. The pastry should be given a 4-fold at this stage. For example, if we give the pastry a 4-fold, the pastry block will be a little over 16 mm (4 mm thick × 4 folds) = 16 mm, plus the air spaces between. Reset the sheeter to 20 mm and rotate the pastry 90° to have the open end facing away from you and the closed end (the belly) facing your stomach. Make sure to cut entirely through the pastry bellies to release the elastic tension before more sheeting. The 3 − Fold Sheeting Settings The pastry block has a 4-fold or book fold. It should be approximately 16 mm thick and may have contracted a little due to dough elasticity, hence the setting of 20 mm on the sheeter, allowing for some expansion/relaxation of the pastry block. The pastry block should then be reduced through the rollers as follows, descending in units of 5 mm to 10 mm. Then reduce by 3 mm to 7 mm and finally to 5 mm as the butter is already well incorporated into the pastry. ⮚ 20 mm ⮚ 15 mm ⮚ 10 mm ⮚ 7 mm ⮚ 5 mm Then fold as required (3) The pastry should be given a 3-fold at this stage. For example, if we give the pastry a 3-fold, the pastry block will be slightly over 15 mm high (5mm thick × 3 - folds) = 15mm, plus the air spaces between. Reset the sheeter to 20 mm thick and rotate the pastry 90° to have the open end facing away from you and the closed end (the belly) facing your stomach. Reduce in increments to 12 mm and chill in the freezer wrapped in plastic. Rest for 30−60 minutes before sheeting. I recommend 30

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minutes in the freezer at −18 ℃, followed by 30 minutes in the refrigerator at+ 3℃. The pastry is now ready for final sheeting, cutting, and shaping. Final Sheeting Settings 3-4-3 The pastry block should now be a little more than 12 mm after relaxing in the refrigerator, hence the setting of 15 mm to commence sheeting, allowing for dough relaxation/fermentation. Cut the bellies to relieve elastic tension. The pastry should be reduced as follows, descending in units of 5 mm to 10 mm. Then reduce the pastry sheet in increments of 2 mm until you arrive at your final setting. The final sheeter setting, or mm thickness should be set on the stop feature on the sheeter in advance, and the pastry sheeted to whatever thickness is required for your pastries. Once more, ensure the setting lock is on to prevent pinning the pastry too thinly. Commence final sheeting as follows: ⮚ 15 mm ⮚ 10 mm ⮚ 8 mm ⮚ 6 mm ⮚ 4 mm- 3.5 mm for croissants or whatever thickness is required for an individual pastry.

Cutting The Belly of The Pastry to Ease Elastic Recoil

In the picture above, I use a sharp knife to cut right through the pastry block's belly or folded part of the pastry block. This process eases the tension/elastic recoil in the pastry block just before Page | 70

sheeting it. Cutting keeps the pastry in a straight rectangle when processing. There will be two bellies in a 3-fold, two bellies in a 5 lock-in; (see page 61) and three bellies to cut in a 4-fold. Remember to always cut the pastry just before sheeting and final sheeting. Overview of topic covered in discussions to this point ➢ Croissant Anatomy ➢ Basic ingredients ➢ Global flours ➢ Yeast types ➢ Butter and butter preparation ➢ Dough mixers and mixing times ➢ Desired Dough Temperature and Base Temperature calculations ➢ Friction Factor calculations ➢ Making and managing a sourdough starter ➢ Proofers and proofing ➢ Baking and different oven types ➢ Bakers% ➢ Core temperature theory and the use of Ice Blankets ➢ Processing factors ➢ The lock−in ➢ Dough touching points ➢ Elastic recoil Armed with all the knowledge on how to make pastry and process it correctly, going forward, there will be a series of lessons on different lamination systems used in the industry which will enable you to create beautiful, laminated pastry. You will find that each step is repetitive. This is not an editing fault. I repeat the stages in detail to reinforce the learning objectives and ensure no step is left out. Many problems I find when teaching pastry is that students forget how many times, they have folded the pastry. Often, too many layers are created with just one extra fold. Even a simple 25 layer croissant dough can become 73 layers if one extra 3-fold is given Useful Rules of Thumb for Recipe Formulation I have included many new recipes in this book. All of which have been tried and tested for over forty years. I extensively use these recipes for production and tutoring my students in Ireland and globally. I also regularly get many recipe questions on my page, The Art of Lamination and Laminated Pastry with Jimmy Griffin. Many of the queries ask for help with people's existing recipes, recipes not in my book! I always advise that I can only report on my recipes as they are

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proven and work. Other baker's recipes may not be balanced and use different flour, butter, hydration etc. There are many variables to consider, but at the end of the day, understanding baker’s percentages and the average baker's percentages for each main ingredient will assist you with formulating your own successful recipes. There are also two factors to keep in consideration: 1. The percentage of butter used in the dough making and expressed as a baker's percentage per 100% flour weight. 2. The percentage of lamination butter used in the lamination and expressed as a percentage of dough weight. Flour Considerations Flour has been discussed in detail in the earlier stages of the book. Using the correct flour is essential. Use T-55/T65/T45 Gruau flour or equivalent when possible. Otherwise, use pizza flour (milled to give an extensible dough typical for pizza dough). Some professionals prefer one type over the other, and some use a blend, for example, 50/50, using both T-55 & T-45 flours. Whatever flour is used, it should produce an extensible dough which is elastic in its properties and doesn’t shrink back so much when being processed. Even if it does, good resting and chilling will keep shrinkage to a minimum. Flour is always 100% in the baker’s percentage, so we will use 1000 g of flour (100%) for the examples below to make it easy for this discussion. Butter Considerations Butter has also been covered in the previous sections regarding properties, butterfat percentages, processing issues and temperature controls. Croissant pastry contains two elements of butter: ➢ the butter mixed in the dough – 0% to 7% ➢ the butter used for lamination – 23% to 30% The combined percentage of butter used for croissant making is generally as follows: ➢ ± 30% of the dough weight or 300 g per 1000 g of dough ➢ 50% of the flour weight in the recipe or 500 g lamination butter per 1000 g of flour ➢ Equal to the hydration weight of the pastry dough, e.g., 500g liquids/500g lamination butter Lamination butter is more expensive than standard butter, for example. While you can put lamination butter into the dough, you can save money in the long term by using soft butter in the dough and expensive lamination butter for the lamination stage. Currently, lamination dry butter costs € 15.00 per kg as against € 7.75 per kg for standard butter. Danish pastries and laminated

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brioche commonly have up to 50% of the dough weight as butter or 500 g per 1000 g of dough. The 500g per kg butter-to-dough recipe comprises 5% butter in the dough and 45% lamination butter. Salt Considerations Salt is essential for making great pastry. It stabilises the fermentation by controlling the action of the yeast. Salt tightens the gluten strands formed during dough-making, making them stronger. This effect of strengthening the gluten strands enables the dough made with sufficient salt to hold the carbon dioxide produced by the yeast more efficiently. Salt also helps to balance the flavour and colour of the pastry. As the pastry is used to make sweet baked goods, salt percentages typically range between 1.5% to 2% of the flour weight in recipes or 15 g to 20 g per 1000 g of flour used. While lamination butter is unsalted, salted butter is sometimes used to make the pastry. Additionally, croissants made with salted margarine require adjusting the salt levels in the dough recipe. Using an example of making vegan/vegetarian croissants with salted margarine, for example, their margarine already has a 2% salt content or 20 g per 1000 g of margarine. In this example, the 500 g of lamination margarine will already contain 10 g of salt or 1% of the flour weight. An adjustment will be required in the dough recipe to account for the salt in the margarine. Sugar Considerations Sugar acts as yeast food in the dough. It also absorbs water in the dough and has a weakening effect on the gluten structure. This effect makes the dough looser over time. Consequently, the dough expands more when baking, which helps the croissant pastry achieve a lighter and softer crumb. Sugar is not essential to baking, but it adds sweetness to the pastry and causes increased caramelization of the crumb. This gives the croissant pastry its desired golden brown colour. The sugar added to the dough is 6% to 8% of the flour weight or 60 g to 80 g per 1000 g. I have seen and made recipes well above this, up to 18% and as low as 4% flour weight. Barley malt syrup or malt powder (non-diastatic- no enzyme activity) is often used in croissant dough recipes. The malt contributes fermentable sugars to the dough, more yeast food, which enhances the croissant crumb and crust colour. Small quantities are required; typically. Hydration Considerations All dough requires hydration to form and develop gluten. It is the wetting of the two proteins in wheat flour, glutenin and gliadin, which eventually combine to form the gluten matrix in doughmaking. The goal of croissant dough making is to produce a dough consistent with the lamination butter when combined. If the dough is too dry, it will snap and tear when sheeting; if it is too wet/moist, forming structured layers with the butter will be impossible. Typically, the hydration of croissant dough is 48% to 54% or 480 g to 540 g per 1000 g of flour. Hydration is just water or a combination of water, egg, and milk for croissant dough. However, suppose you wish to Page | 73

enrich the dough for making Danish pastry, for example. In that case, milk and whole egg are used instead of water. The milk and egg will soften the eating quality of the dough, making it less bready and more like cake with a tender yellow crumb. The Effect of Reduced or Excess Layering Contrary to common thought of pastry production, more layers do not necessarily mean a better-looking croissant pastry. In fact, too many layers or over-lamination can have a drastic effect on both the crust and the crumb. If too few layers are made, the layers on the crumb are large, heavy, and irregular, while the crumb will be incredibly open with exceptionally large, greasy holes. Try making pastry 3-3-3 to see the effect. On the other end of the spectrum, too much lamination will cause the layering to close on the crust. The crumb will also become very closed and of a similar texture to bread. I call this type of crumb a “Crioche” as externally, it looks like a croissant but has a bread-like crumb. The most common occurrence of this problem is when the baker has lost count of how many folds, they gave the pastry or didn’t count the lock-in. Regularly, perfectly made pastry with 25 layers is ruined when it is given an extra turn in error. There is indeed a sweet spot for croissant pastry, and widely practised worldwide are the following folding systems: ➢ 3-4-3 giving 25 layers, used for croissant production – open honeycomb ➢ 3-4-4 giving 33 layers, used for Chocolatine/Pain au Chocolat – open honeycomb ➢ 5-4-3 giving 49 layers, used for larger pastries – closer honeycomb ➢ 3-3-3/3 giving 55 layers, takes longer to make – closer, tight crumb/honeycomb Generally, the lock-in, plus the two other folds, can be made in one operation, but in the 3-3-3/-3, you need to rest the pastry for an hour following lock-in and the two 3-folds. Preparing to Cut the Croissant The triangles When we sheet out the pastry block after processing to its final sheeting thickness of 3.5 mm, very often, a small quantity of dough has not fully incorporated into the lamination at the top/bottom and side edges. This pastry area needs to be trimmed to remove the unprocessed dough. Trimming will also give a straight and even edge so that all your pastries will be the same length and weight. I have trimmed the sheeted pastry's top/bottom and side edges in the photos on the next page. Keep these trimmings. Place them in the refrigerator if you are making dough daily or cut them into small strips and freeze them for later use. They can be added to your next dough as pâte fermentée up to 20% of dough weight or 200 g per 1000 g of fresh croissant dough. If using from frozen, having them cut in small strips speeds up the defrosting time. I regularly place them in the dough-making water to soak and defrost before making my fresh croissant dough. Using all waste pastry trimmings as butter/ingredients is good Page | 74

practice. Most importantly, your time has a cost, and you should not waste any of the resources and ingredients you use. Your bottom line will be better off too. In the book's concluding section, Section 12, I look at pastry waste management in-depth.

To Cut or to Roll the Croissant The triangles? Pastry chefs and bakers all over the world have a preference for how they shape their croissants. Some like straight croissants. To others, straight croissants are a betrayal of the originally intended form. Some bakers simply roll the triangle without cutting, while others cut the bottom. I prefer to roll the end of the triangles slightly with a small rolling pin held at an angle on the table's edge. When you cut or roll, you widen the base of the triangle's bottom edge, extending the size of the foot or the base of the finished croissant. The photo on the following page shows that the croissant on the left has been shaped without cutting and widening the base. The croissant on the right has been cut and rolled to give the croissant a wider base or foot. You can bend the feet for a classic croissant shape with a wider base or foot.

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Shaping/Coiling Sequence Some bakers like to roll their croissants towards them, while others want to form them by rolling away from themselves. I like to roll away, but whatever works for you, the objective is the same, to gently roll the triangle without tearing it. The exception to this rule is at the very beginning. It is important to get a good tight coil at the start of rolling, then ease up on the pressure so as not to tear the pastry. In the example on the next page, the cut at the bottom is opened slightly, and the croissant will resemble the Eiffel Tower. Then the bottom parts on either side of the cut are folded outwards using the thumb and index finger, leaving a “V” in the centre. Then, this piece of pastry, the base of the triangle, should be rolled back and forth with slight pressure on both sides, giving a tight coil at the centre and extending out the feet of the pastry, giving it a wider base. Then using a breaststroke motion, the feet are rolled upward and outward Page | 76

to form the first coils. Then, placing the fingers and thumbs on the outside feet, the croissant is rolled up, and the shape is completed. Use firm downward pressure on the pastry to anchor the tip underneath and balance the feet, as they may topple the croissant when proofed to one side or the other if it is not sitting level on the tray.

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The Effect of Stretching the Triangle Croissants are cut into Isosceles triangles with a ratio of 1:3, or, for example, 10 cm wide and 30 cm long. The croissant on the right photo has been cut and formed to this size. You can see the shape and count the shoulders on it, and there are 4 shoulders to this croissant. In the photo, the croissant triangle on the left has been stretched to 45cm in length. In the bottom left of the image, we can see that this croissant has five shoulders and is a different shape. The

coils

will

be

much

thinner/closer to each other, and as the centre has more coils, the feet will lift off the bottom of the work surface, and the pastry will tilt to the left or right. It is important, the more coils or shoulders you have in your pastry, that you press the formed pastry down flat. When you proof and bake them as either straight croissants or fold in the feet to the centre to make crescent

shaped

pastries.

This

flattening action anchors the pastry preventing them from tipping over. Be sure to anchor the tip of the croissant by sealing it underneath the foot of the pastry before proofing or freezing. Otherwise, it will lift and destroy the look and appearance of the pastry. This occurs as the croissant is coiled, like a spring, with tension from sheeting and forming. During proof, as the pastry expands, it starts to uncoil

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Baking Croissants Correct baking of the croissants is the final stage of the process. The weight of the individual pastry will always be a factor in the baking time. The heavier they are, the longer you need to bake them. Additionally, if you add fillings, they will take longer to bake, and you may need to bake them at a lower temperature for longer. I have already completed the discussion on various ovens, and simple rules of thumb are as follows: ➢ Deck Oven 200 ℃ for 20 − 22 minutes ➢ Fan oven 170 ℃ − 175 ℃ for 16 − 18 minutes Bicolor croissants should be baked at lower temperatures and not be egg-washed, chocolate being the only exception. The yellow egg yolk in the eggwash will distort the true colour you are using. Hot temperatures will accelerate the Maillard reaction, a chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars. This reaction gives baked goods their distinctive brown colour and adds flavour. By lowering the baking temperature for red, green, or other varieties of Bicolor croissants to 162 ℃ − 165 ℃, the effect of the Maillard reaction is decreased substantially. Baking may take 2 to 3 minutes longer. Foundation Recipes This next section will explore the basic folding sequences of laminated pastry making for yeasted pastry. These systems are commonly used by industry worldwide, and each has merits. Suffice it to say the more layers formed affect the crumb of the baked pastry. The more folding sequences create more layers, and this has the effect of making the texture closer. The less folding, the more open the honeycomb. A 5 lock-in will create more layers than a 3 lock-in, and each successive folding sequence builds on these layers formed during the process. The yeasted laminated pastry needs less layering to puff pastry as it has the added benefit of yeast fermentation to give it lift and volume. Since puff pastry relies solely on what is defined as mechanical aeration, this type of pastry requires many more layers to achieve lightness and volume. Additionally, croissant pastry with a lock-in and two folds can be processed step after step. These lamination sequences include the 5-4-3; 3-4-3; 3-3-3; and 34-3 methods. Longer sequences for croissant and puff pastry making require a one-hour resting period for the gluten to relax sufficiently so the pastry doesn’t tear. The rest period is indicated by a /, so a 3-3-3-3 is written as 3-3-3 / 3. Note that increasing the number of layers toughens/increases the resistance of the pastry. If rolling by hand, it will be more difficult to roll the pastry out.

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1. Croissant 3-3-3

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Process Detail Croissant 3-3-3 – 19 Layers Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃ This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-3-3 Lock-in 3 / 3-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 19 Layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1112 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 3 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5mm and 30 cm high × 70 cm in length Cutting Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 30 cm long Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃; 75% to 80% humidity Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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2. Croissant 3-4-3

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Process Detail Croissant 3-4-3 – 25 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4 fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 Layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 – 10 minutes on medium speed; Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1112 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 - Size 250 mm high ×170 mm wide (approximately) 1st Sheet to 900 mm l × 250 mm h Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4-fold; pastry will be 230 mm long × 220 mm high Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator 2nd Sheet to 840 mm × 230 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold; roughly 280 mm × 230 mm, reduce to 12 − 15 mm Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm and 30 cm high × 70 cm in length Cutting Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1 cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃; 75% to 80% humidity Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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3. Chocolatine 3-4-4 − Pain au Chocolat

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Process Detail Chocolatine/Pain au Chocolat 3-4-4 – 33 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-4 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 4-fold Layers Formed 33 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1112 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4-fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 4-fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5mm thick and a rectangle of approximately 300 mm high × 700 mm long. Cut the rectangle into two 150 mm strips Cutting Then cut to rectangles 8.5 cm wide × 15 cm high Shape Roll up incorporating two chocolate bars, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃; 75% to 80% humidity Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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4. Croissant 3-3-3 / 3

Note: The / indicates a mandatory rest period of one hour

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Process Detail Croissant 3-3-3 / 3 – 55 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-3-3-3 Lock-in 3; 3-fold; 3-fold/3-fold; Layers Formed 55 Layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1112 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st & 2ndFolding 3 fold × 2; Reduce Pastry to 15 mm Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 3rd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm 300 mm high × 700 mm in length. Cut the rectangle into two 15 cm strips Cutting Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 30 cm high Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1 cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃; 75% to 80% humidity Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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5. Croissant Extra Large 5-4-3

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The 5-4-3 croissant is generally a larger size/weight croissant, over 125 g. The extra layers help give it stability in holding the extra weight. You will find that the pastry is tight/tougher to roll if done by hand, and this is because the extra layers create more elastic tension in the pastry. I recommend resting the cut triangles for 20 minutes in the refrigerator before shaping. This rest time allows the pastry to recover from elastic recoil and makes it easier to roll out, especially if your flour is strong. While I have included my base recipe for these croissants, you can make this type of lamination with any croissant recipe. These larger croissants are perfect for making filled snacking croissants, such as cheddar cheese, hollandaise sauce, ham, and whole grain mustard.

Process Detail Extra Large Croissant 5-4-3 Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 5-4-3 Layers Formed Mixing Times

25 ℃ This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Lock-in 5 / 4- fold / 3- fold 49 layers

Dough Consistency When Mixed

KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1112 g

Fermentation Time

45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃

Lock-in number

5 – Place butter over 3/4 of the dough. Fold over

Sheet to 5mm

Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm

1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill

4 fold 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 3 fold 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃

Sheeting

Sheet to 3.5 mm 40 cm high × 45 cm in length.

Cutting

Cut to the triangles 14 cm wide × 42 cm long

Shape Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling

Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissants, Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 to 150 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃; Humidity 75% to 80% Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 170 ℃ for 20 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 25 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Lesson #1 the 3-4-3 system Pros And Cons of Pastry Made on This System: 25 layers, very flaky externally, very open leafy honeycomb internal texture. The easiest of the many systems explained in this book. It is simple to laminate by hand due to the smaller number of layers and the least resistance developed in the folding process. This system is far less elastic than a 3-4-4, 5-4-3 or 3-3-3-3 system. Process Method 3-4-3 The fermented dough is degassed by sheeting it through a pastry sheeter between 10 mm − 12 mm thick, wrapped in plastic to prevent skinning, and placed in a freezer to stiffen the dough and chill close to 0 °C for 30 minutes (Vernet, 2020). The dough is then taken from the freezer and formed into an even rectangle twice the butter block's size. The butter block is placed in the dough rectangle centre, as illustrated below. The centre is sealed by pinching the dough together, exposing the ends with butter showing at each end. The Lock-In 3 The pastry contains three layers, two dough layers on the top and bottom, with the centre's butter layer. The dough to the pastry block sides can also be sliced to ease elastic recoil, referred to as the sandwich method. The first stage of this process is known as the “Lock-in;” the butter is locked in between two dough layers. The dough can be rolled twice the butter's width and folded over half like a book. It can also be folded over the butter in the centre, as seen in the diagram on the right, and the seam is pinched closed. On the next page is an example of the sandwich method, where the dough's sides are cut to ease the elastic tension in the dough, exposing the butter on all four sides, just like a cheese sandwich appears between two layers of bread.

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The following example explains how a lock-in 3, followed by a 4-fold, determines the number of layers developed by lamination and emphasises the need to factor in the dough touching points. The photos and diagrams above illustrate the sandwich method of incorporating dough as a lockin 3 to form the lock-in before sheeting. The pastry is first sheeted/rolled toward the pinched seam, reducing in increments of 5 mm to 10 mm. Then the increments are reduced to 2 mm to prevent the pastry from tearing. The pastry is finally reduced to a thickness of 4 mm and folded into a 4-fold, offset to one side (4 mm × 4 folds = 16 mm pastry block height).

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The 4-Fold or Book Turn

Pastry ends

Note that the offset 4-fold will always have open and closed ends (or belly/bellies) of the pastry block. As illustrated in the diagram below, the shaded areas/dough touching points compress and form one dough layer during the folding and sheeting. Therefore, one must subtract one layer from each dough touching point to calculate the alternating butter and dough layers. Dough Butter Dough touching Dough points Dough 3 (-1) Butter Dough touching Dough points Dough 3 (-1) Butter Dough touching Dough points Dough 3 (-1) Butter Dough

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

The dough is rotated 90° after the 4-fold, the belly is sliced with a knife (page 70) to release the elastic tension, and the same slicing is made on the other two folds at the open end of the pastry block. The dough is always rolled L-R with the belly of the dough facing the pastry maker (belly to belly will remind the pastry maker which way to orient the pastry when sheeting it).

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The 3-Fold The 9 layers formed so far in the process are sheeted out once more to 5 mm and then given a 3-fold-3 × 9 = 27 (−2 DTP) = 25 Layers, illustrated by photos and diagram below. The pastry block will be approximately 15 mm thick (3−fold × 5 mm thick = 15 mm).

The pastry block now has 25 alternating layers of dough and butter. It should be pinned out to between 12 to 15 mm, wrapped in plastic and chilled for 30 minutes, followed by 45 minutes in a freezer or between ice blankets to relax the gluten and control the pastry's temperature, arresting the fermentation.

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Lesson #2 The 5-4-3 System Pros and Cons of Pastry Made with This System The pastry block has 49 layers, is less flaky externally, has a closer leafy honeycomb texture, and is slightly more difficult to hand laminate due to the developed elasticity from creating extra layers. Has good eating qualities, not as flaky as other pastry-making systems 3-4-3 or 3-4-4. Process Method 5-4-3 The 5-4-3 system begins by sheeting the chilled dough into a rectangle. The chilled, prepared butter block is then placed over 4/5ths of the dough; the dough is then folded into three, forming two layers of butter and three layers of dough-5 layers. This is known as lock-in 5, where the butter is locked into the dough. The 5 Lock-In ⮚ The first stage is always known as the “Lock-in” stage ⮚ To fold a lock-in 5, apply butter over the top 4/5ths of the pinned dough ⮚ Stretch the dough flap at the bottom to cover 1/2 of the butter block ⮚ Fold the top 1/3rd down, and you will have 5 alternating layers, 3 of dough, and two of butter.

Dough Butter Dough Butter Dough In this 5-fold, there are two “bellies” of dough. These should be cut through with a sharp knife (page 60) to release the dough's tension. The dough is then flattened out using a rolling pin. The pastry is reduced through the sheeter descending in units of 5 mm to 10 mm, then by 2 mm increments to 4 mm thick using a sheeter or a rolling pin to create a long even strip of pastry which will then be folded into a 4 or a book fold (4 mm thick pastry × 4 folds = 16 mm pastry block). If hand laminating, it is particularly important to use a small amount of dusting flour when rolling and ensure that the pastry never sticks to the work surface. When using a sheeter, extraordinarily little flour is required. The layering can be damaged if the pastry sticks to the table or sheeter, and the resulting pastry will not be of decent quality or appearance. Page | 94

The 4-Fold Following the lock-in 5, the four-fold is the first of two folds after the lock-in 5, and after the pastry has been gradually sheeted in the direction of the seam to 5 mm thick, then given the fourfold or a 4. Remember to sheet L−R with the belly of the pastry facing yours! Follow the sheeting number guidelines in the previous lesson on pages 69 &70. Process Procedure The 4−fold The pastry block is flattened and rolled or sheeted into a long, thin rectangle of approximately 4 mm. thick Pinning to this thickness helps ensure that the dough and butter are sheeted together to form a sheet of pastry with 5 distinct, separate layers and then given a book fold, also known as a (4), or a four-fold. This process is achieved by lifting the pastry's ends, drawing them together, and joining them slightly off-centre. The pastry is then folded over like a book, and the pastry has been folded into 4 pleats, as seen in the central photographs and diagrams on page 69. The five combined layers of dough and butter from the 5-lock-in stage are folded into four pleats, giving the pastry block technically 5 × 4 layers. The pastry block now has 20 (−3 DTP) -17 layers, subtracting one layer from each place where the dough touches dough or DTP. There are alternate layers of dough and butter. The pastry block should be approximately 16 mm high (4 mm pastry × 4 folds = 16 mm height of pastry block). Then sheet the pastry block to between 12 mm –15 mm, wrap it in plastic to prevent skinning and place it in the freezer for 30 minutes. Ice blankets may also be used to chill down the pastry. Remember, when you compress two layers of dough, they merge into one layer and should be subtracted to count the total quantity of layers. Don’t forget to rotate the pastry 90° (belly to belly) before sheeting. Note the 3 DTP below in a 4-fold.

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DTP 1 Dough touching dough

DTP 2 Dough touching dough

DTP 3 Dough touching dough Freezing and Resting The pastry should be sheeted to between 12 to 15 mm and wrapped in plastic to prevent condensation and freezer burn. The reason for further sheeting is to thin out the pastry, so the freezer can quickly reduce the pastry block's core temperature quickly and prevent the yeast from fermenting before the pastry is prepared for final sheeting. When the pastry is folded as in the diagram above into a 4-fold, there will always be two parts, the outside of the dough touching each or DTP. To calculate the number of layers in the pastry so far, where dough touches dough, it does not count as two separate layers. Remember, when you compress two layers of dough together, they merge to become one layer and should be subtracted in counting layers. Therefore, it is counted as one layer. This occurs three times in this 4-fold, three DTP are subtracted from the overall number of layers, and the pastry now has 17 layers at this stage in the process. See the diagrams on the following page.

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Layer Calculation Example After Subtraction of DTP 4-Fold

The 3-Fold The croissant pastry is removed from the freezer and placed on the pastry sheeter. The pastry is then rolled to 5 mm into a rectangle and folded into a trifold, a simple fold or a 3. The pastry is now 15 mm thick. The dough has 17 × 3 layers—51 (-2 layers) where dough touches the dough in this production stage. The pastry now has 49 separate layers of dough and butter. Wrap well in plastic to prevent skinning. Place in the refrigerator/freezer for 40 − 60 minutes or use ice blankets to chill down the pastry for 30 −45 minutes before sheeting.

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The Final Stage is The Sheeting Stage Sheeting effectively is the process of reducing the pastry to the thickness required for final processing. Sheet the pastry between 3.5 mm –4 mm and place in the freezer for 15 minutes. It helps prevent the pastry from shrinking. Process as you desire: croissant, pain au, chocolat, etc.

Lesson #3 The 3-4-4 System Generally used for making Pain au Chocolat/Chocolatines, the 3-4-4 system produces 33 layers. The chocolatines stand up better with the 8 extra layers than the 3-4-3 system used for croissants. As previously discussed, remember to cut the bellies of the dough with a knife for each rotation of the pastry before sheeting and folding to ease the elastic recoil. The Lock-in 3 The sheeting of the pastry block, followed by folding sequences, allows layers of dough and butter to build up simultaneously. As the butter is fat and the dough is water-based, they will remain separate when rolled out during the sheeting process. This allows for forming individual layers of dough and butter by folding the pastry in designated sequences. Following the 3 lock-in, the dough now contains three layers, i.e., dough, butter, and dough. This is known as the first 3 of the lamination sequences. The pastry is placed on a sheeter and rotated 90° from the lock-in formation; the seam formed is oriented to point horizontally towards the machine rollers. Cut the bellies (page 70). Commence sheeting, the thickness of the pastry is gradually reduced by 5 mm at a time to 10 mm. Then reduced in 2 mm increments to a final thickness of 4 mm for the lock-in on a pastry sheeter.

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The 1st 4−fold The pastry should then be given a book or 4−fold, as illustrated in the photos below. The butter must flow within the dough without breaking.

An offset 4-fold method is used here, noting the open and closed ends of the pastry block. An offset folding method is recommended, as this reduces the possibility of a bulge in the leading edge of the pastry block, resulting in uneven sheeting. The mechanical friction of the rolling process generates heat and increases the temperature of the pastry. At this stage, it is recommended that the pastry is rotated 90° with the closed seam or belly facing the operator and reduced to a 12 mm thickness on the pastry sheeter, wrapped in plastic and placed in a freezer at − 18 °C for 20 minutes. The 90° rotation of the pastry ensures that the pastry is stretched in each direction evenly throughout the process (NIIR Board of Consultants and Engineers, 2014), which eliminates shrinkage in the final proofing and baking stages of production. Reducing the pastry to a thickness of 12 mm − 15 mm enables the freezer to rapidly reduce the pastry's core temperature, controlling the fermentation until the proofing stage. Be sure to cut the pastry's bellies (page 70) to ease the dough's elastic recoil tension when sheeting it thin at the start of the next stage. As the pastry at lock-in initially had three layers or a 3, it was sheeted and folded into four or a 4-fold. One would imagine that 3 × 4 would equal 12 layers; however, where dough touches dough in the folding process, known as The Dough Touching Point or DTP, one layer is subtracted at each dough touching point. Under compression, the dough merges to form a single dough layer while the butter layer remains unchanged. In the case of a 4-fold, three dough touching points are counted, leaving a total of 9 layers of dough and butter. The chilled pastry is removed from the freezer after 40 minutes for the next process stage. The 2nd and Final Fold in the 3-4-4 System Once again, it is essential to rotate the pastry 90° to face the closed seam or belly facing the operator. The bellies of the pastry are cut (page 70), and the pastry block is then reduced in 5 mm increments to 10 mm, then it is reduced in 2 mm increments and sheeted to a thickness of 5 mm and given a second book-fold or a 4 as illustrated on the previous page. At this process stage, the pastry contains 9 × 4 layers or 36 layers. However, as there are three DTPs in a 4-fold, as seen on page 96, three layers are subtracted from the total. The finished pastry now has a final total of 33 separate alternating layers of dough and butter. Rest for 40 minutes in the freezer. The pastry should again Page | 99

be rotated 90°, with the closed end facing the operator, sheeted to a thickness of 12 mm, wrapped in plastic and chilled in a freezer at -18 °C for 40 − 60 minutes to recover and relax the gluten. The Sheeting Process Remember to cut the pastry just before sheeting. Reduce the thickness gradually. It is now ready to prepare many different viennoiserie types, such as classic croissants, pain au chocolat or pain aux raisins and can be sheeted down to the required thickness. Pastry Cutting Diagram Sample no Waste – 500g Flour Base Recipe

Here are some cutting diagram examples for getting Croissant and Pain au Chocolate from sheeting the base croissant recipe to the dimensions above and to 3.5 mm thick.

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In the second diagram, you can mark your pastry into 10 cm wide × 34 cm long pieces, then cut the rectangles in half into croissant triangles. You can use any size you like, big or small. The diagram demonstrates how you can cut sheeted pastry and eliminate trimming wastage. The croissant-only diagram is merely a sample to demonstrate how a rectangle can be cut into triangles to eliminate wastage from cutting pure triangles. It is a suggestion, and the triangles may need to be stretched slightly at the bottom to form an isosceles triangle.

Lesson #4 the 3-3-3 / 3 system Pros And Cons of Pastry Made with This System: 55 layers are less flaky externally than in previous systems. They have a closer honeycomb internal texture and good eating qualities. They are the most elastic of the pastries due to the extra layering. The pastry will shrink when cutting if not well-rested before sheeting. Takes longer to make because of the additional layers and the required rest time. Lock-in 3 The lock-in process is as in previous pastry-making systems, which have been well described. I have included additional notes for using and handling coloured or flavoured types of butter. The second photo below has chocolate butter made with 10% − 15% cocoa powder. The butter should be fully enclosed in the pastry to keep the dough sheeter clean.

1

2

3

The 3-3-3 / 3 system begins by sheeting the chilled dough into a rectangle. The dough rectangle is placed on the table in landscape format. The pre-chilled prepared butter block is positioned in the middle of the dough. Imagine, for example, like the Irish flag, the dough rectangle is presented in landscape form. The butter block is placed in the middle of the dough rectangle. Next, the dough is folded over the butter to the centre. The two edges of the dough are pressed together in the centre, as shown below. There are now 2 layers of dough and 1 layer of butter - the 3 layers. Page | 101

The Lock−in 3 Using Coloured Butter

#1

#2

#3

Note: In the photos above, the ends are sealed on the #1 dough on the left, as chocolate butter is inside. Sealing the butter entirely inside the dough protects the belts on the pastry sheeter from being soiled by the chocolate butter. The ends should not be closed as in #3 above if making plain croissant pastry. Alternatively, the sides can be cut with a sharp knife or pizza wheel and exposed, known as the Sandwich Method (see below), ensuring that no large masses of dough are present in the finished pastry and that the butter is evenly distributed between the formed layers.

The Lock-in and First 3−Fold (3-3) The pastry block has the butter exposed on all sides. The pastry is rolled into a rectangle 4 mm thick and given a trifold or a 3. The pastry now has 3 × 3= 9 layers (−2 DTP) or 7 separate dough and butter layers. Page | 102

The Second 3-Fold (3-3-3) The pastry is sheeted a second time to 5 mm, given another trifold or 3. The folded pastry now has 3 × 7 = 21 layers (-2 DTP) or 19 alternating pastry layers. The pastry block should be rolled down to 12 mm –15 mm. Wrapped in plastic and placed in the freezer for 30 to 60 minutes or use ice blankets for 30 to 45 minutes. The Third and Final 3-Fold (3-3-3 / 3) The pastry is then taken from the freezer, rolled to 5 mm into a long rectangle, and folded into 3. Reduce the block to 12 mm − 15 mm. The pastry now has 3 × 19 layers = 57 (−2 DTP) or 55 layers. The 12 mm – 15 mm thick pastry block helps swiftly achieve a low core temperature in the freezer. The pastry can now be either processed or frozen for up to two weeks at−18 °C. Seal in plastic and freeze to−18 ℃. When required, remove the frozen pastry block, and place it in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ – 4 ℃ the evening before you need it to defrost overnight in the refrigerator. Then sheet the pastry the following morning, cut, proof and bake. If processing the pastry immediately, set it to 3.5 mm – 4 mm and place it in the freezer for 10 –15 minutes. Use at 2 ℃ to 5 ℃, which prevents shrinking the pastry. Process as you desire, croissant, pain au chocolat, or other varieties. Tip: You will find that you have much more control over the pastry's shape when well chilled, and the pastry will not distort as easily when handled at a cool temperature. If processing a lot of pastry together, leave half of it in the refrigerator/freezer as you work off the other half. Recap lock in and first trifold There are many pastry folding combinations; I have just covered four systems here, three involving three folds (lock-in is the 1st fold) 3-4-3, 3-4-4 and 5-4-3, the other with four folds 3-3-3-3. Here’s an overview of what has been covered and a mention of other systems. The lock-in number will always be the first number. The optimum thickness per layer is 0.08 mm-0.10 mm. Applying this formula to the layer sequences below, the sheeting thickness can be calculated using a thickness of 0.08 mm per layer. Overview of the 3-3-3-3 System, Lock-In, Sheeting and First Trifold

#1.

#2

#3

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#4.

#5

#6

The Lock In 5 Series of Layering Lamination system

Sheeting Thickness Layers

(Layers X 0.08mm)

Product Type

5-4-4

65

5.20 mm

Single piece cut pastry

5-5-3

61

4.88 mm

Large croissant

5-3-4

49

3.92 mm

Medium to large croissant

5-4-3

49

3.92 mm

Large croissant >120g

5-3-3

37

2.96 mm

Pain au chocolat

5-5-2

41

3.28 mm

Medium croissant

The Lock In 3 Series of Layering

Lamination system

Layers

3-3-3-3 3-5-4 3-4-5 3-4-4 3-4-3 3-3-4 3-3-3

55 41 41 33 25 25 19

Sheeting Thickness (Layers X 0.08mm) 4.4 mm 3.28 mm 3.28 mm 2.64 mm 2.0 mm 2.0 mm 1.52 mm

Product Type Large Croissant Medium Croissant Medium Croissant Pain au Chocolat Large, layered pastry Two merged dough 49 layers Outer layer for merged dough

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Processing Notes Recap for The Lamination 3-3-3 / -3 ➢ Lock in the butter as a 3 over the centre of the dough. Sheet to a thickness of 4 mm. ➢ Trifold #1 (3 layers) is the second 3 in the sequence. ➢ Trifold #2 (3 layers) is given straight after the first; rotate the pastry block 90° to have the seam on the side. Sheet to 5 mm, fold, and sheet again to 12 mm, wrap in plastic, and place in the freezer. ➢ Trifold #3 (3 layers), sheet to 5 mm, rotate pastry block 90° to have the seam or belly facing you. ➢ The pastry is now made and needs time to recover from the sheeting. ➢ Sheet to 12 mm – 15 mm, wrap in plastic, place in freezer or place between ice blankets. ➢ When rested, sheet the pastry to 3.5 mm −4 mm and chill again before cutting out for 5 minutes − 10 minutes in the freezer. ➢ Ideally, leave the finished pastry for 30 to 60 minutes in the freezer at−18 ℃ before final sheeting.

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Lesson # 4, the 5 – 6 System

To my knowledge, this way of making laminated pastry has never been written about in a book before. I will stand corrected if it has, so here it goes! This method of making laminated pastry produces 25 layers, like a 3-4-3 and is good for making croissants. The math is simple a 5 lock-in is sheeted out to 4 mm thick. You then divide the pastry length into 6 and mark it accordingly. Then you fold the pastry in a ribbon/pleat over on itself six times. 5 layers × 6 folds = 30 layers, – 5 dough touching points which will give you 25 layers for croissant making. You can use any recipe in the book to make this pastry. The lock-in is a 5, followed by pleating the pastry into 6 even pleats. Care must be taken to measure the pastry once sheeted from the lock-in stage. Fold it correctly over itself in 6 even pleats. To measure, you can fold the sheeted pastry in half and divide each in 3. As the 6fold has 5 dough touching points and 5 bellies, you will have to cut the bellies later when the final sheeting is in progress to keep the block in a neat rectangle. The extra folds create a lot of resistance in the pastry.

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#1.

#3.

#2.

#4.

#5.

As you can see from photo #2, the pastry is rather high when pleated 6 times and most pastry sheeters only extend to 30 mm high, so unless you have a sheeter with rollers that extend to 40 mm or greater, I suggest sheeting the pastry by hand to fit your sheeter. Sheet to 5 mm, then measure the pastry length using a measuring tape and mark the sheeted pastry into 6 even pieces. Then, pleat the pastry, as seen in photo #3 above. Photos #4 & #5 give you a view of what the pleated pastry should look like. Photo #5 shows the opposite side of photo #4. You will notice that in photo #4, there are 2 bellies and 3 bellies in photo #5. You will need to cut these bellies before the final sheeting. I recommend first reducing the pastry to 15 mm and resting for 45 minutes before final sheeting. Now that you understand how layers are created and how to control how many or how few layers are completed in a production cycle, you can experiment with what works best for your production or go off and create your own products with your new ones found knowledge. In the following chapters, we will examine twin lamination, triple lamination, Bicolor pastry, and cross lamination and how creating perfect layers can be maintained throughout the various processes.

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Pros: ➢ Only one set of folding is required ➢ Processing is faster than the 3-4-3 system Cons: ➢ Careful measuring and pleating/folding of the pastry is required, this takes time! ➢ A longer resting period is required before final sheeting as the extra pleating increases the pastry's elastic resistance. It requires a longer resting period to avoid shrinkage of the final pastry when final sheeting. ➢ The pastry block is quite high when folded. Your sheeter (if made by a machine) may not be wide enough to pass the pastry through without first rolling it down a bit so it fits through the rollers of your sheeter. Layer Perfection Expert temperature control, dough hydration, and dough condition are the best way to achieve layer perfection. The flour used, precision sheeting and slightly trimming the pastry ends/edges if the butter and dough don’t blend perfectly. It is often the case that there is excess dough on the ends during the sheeting process. Many bakers trim the ends and keep the trimmings as pâte fermentée. When cut in a cross-section, the resulting pastry has perfect, even, alternating layers. This pastry often creates cross-laminated pastries, such as Pain Suisse and other Viennoiserie delights, where the visible layers face upwards and are perfect. I will cover how to make Pain Suisse later in the book, along with other cross-laminated pastries. We can also add Bicolor techniques to cross-lamination to create pretty pastries. We have now learned to understand the basics of lamination. The next chapters will examine Bicolor, Twin Lamination and Cross Lamination techniques. These more advanced techniques incorporate the knowledge of lamination and add extra artistic flair and imagination to your production and teaching methods. The first of these is the Bicolor croissant pastry, invented by my friend and colleague David Bedu in 2010. His amazing gift to the world of Viennoiserie is now celebrated globally daily.

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Lesson #5 Croissant Bicolor 3-4-3

Based in Florence, Italy, David Bedu inspired me to mimic and recreate his legendary croissant in a different and unique form. The croissant bicolor is a croissant dough block fusion before sheeting with a coloured sheet of brioche or croissant dough. There have since been countless Bicolor croissant

variations,

including

strawberry,

raspberry, coffee, purple or blue raspberry, and green apple, to mention but a few. Chocolatines also look very pretty when made using Bicolor pastry, especially when scored, as seen in the photo to the left. The white croissant pastry is laminated using the 3-4-4 sequence to make a bold Bicolor chocolate pastry. Then the Chocolate brioche is made by taking up to 25% of the croissant dough and mixing cocoa powder, butter, yeast, and water into a chocolate dough. It is sheeted separately at a ratio of 4:1 dough weight or 225 g of chocolate-yeasted

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brioche dough per kg of croissant dough. The brioche dough was coloured by adding dark cocoa powder at a rate of 10% flour at the mixing stage. This chocolate dough is then sheeted and placed on top of the plain croissant dough before final sheeting. The combined dough and brioche are then reduced to 3.5 mm by passing it through the dough sheeter several times. The next recipe, #6, is a bicolor chocolate recipe, where a percentage of the croissant dough is removed during the mixing stage. The remaining ingredients are added to it

The diagram and photo above show the thin layer of dough applied to the pastry block for making Bicolor products. Another popular colour for croissant Bicolor is red. Many unique products can be made using a combination of bicolor croissant dough and adding fillings and flavours that complement the chocolate as orange, mint, and raspberry. When colouring the dough component, I recommend using dry powder or edible paste colours, which should be added at the beginning of the mixing phase. Paste and powder colours retain most of their colour following the baking process. There are also many natural concentrated food colours for making this pastry on the market today. The dosage is 1% of concentrated dry colour powder to dough weight for powder-coloured doughs. Use 1 g per 100 g of dough and mix it in well. I usually spray my mixing bowl to help dissolve the powder. Deco Relief made this one, link to their website is below, and it is called Pere Noelle Rouge. It is an excellent product. Cocoa powder used for chocolate Bicolor should be Dutch non-acidic cocoa powder used in dosages of 10% − 15% of the dough weight. Acidic cocoa powder can cause the chocolate dough to separate and fall apart, ruining the Bicolor aspect. https://www.deco-relief.fr/en/water-soluble-concentrated-food-coloring/1484-intense-watersoluble-food-colouring-powder-christmas-red-50-g-3700467202142.html

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6. Croissant Bicolor Chocolate

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Process Detail Croissant Bicolor Chocolate 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Chocolate Dough Mixing Take out 200 g dough weight after 5 minutes of mixing Add cocoa, butter, water, sugar, and yeast and mix to clear Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1801 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 3 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 4 fold Add the Chocolate Dough Pin to 2 mm and stick on the laminated dough Chill 60 to 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm and approximately 30 cm high Cutting Trim the top and bottom. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 26 cm high Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Wash with egg Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water, 20 g honey or glucose syrup) Setting & Cooling Return to the oven after glazing. Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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7. Christmas Red Bicolor Croissant

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David Bedu’s Bicolor croissant pastry has been modified from the original chocolate dough topping to various coloured dough toppings. The colours used in the industry are beautiful and the most creative. With this recipe, you can use any colour instead of red or even an assortment of colours together. The key to baking all colours other than chocolate Bicolor is to bake at a temperature of 10 ℃ less than normal and, most importantly, not to eggwash the pastry. The eggwash adds a yellow tinge to the coloured component of the pastry and reduces the intensity of the colour. I spray my Bicolor with water before baking and prepare a sugar syrup (recipe below) which is boiled together. I apply the glaze when the pastries are baked. Then, I return them to the oven for a further 3 minutes to set the syrup, so it is not sticky Water

100 g

Sugar

100 g

Glucose syrup/Honey

20 g

Later, in the book, using green colour, also from Deco Relief, I will describe how to make green Christmas tree croissants from the same recipe. On the right is a little red tree with a sugar paste star on the top. I baked them in high, round steel shapes (8 cm tall and 8 cm wide). The tins mask the direct heat and help preserve the baked pastry's colour.

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Process Detail Red Bicolor Croissant 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3/simple fold/Letter fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Red Dough Mixing Take out 14% dough weight (110 g) after 5 minutes of mixing Add red colour and mix to clear the colour Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1106 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Add the Red Dough Pin the red dough to 2 mm and stick it on the laminated dough Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm thick, 300 mm high × 700 mm long. Cutting Trim the top and bottom edges. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 25 cm high Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on a baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Spray with water Don’t eggwash the pastries. It distorts the colour Baking Fan oven 162 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 185 ℃ for 20 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100g water 20 g honey) Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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8. Two Colour Bicolor 3-4-3

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To make this pastry, I have increased the dough weight by 1/3rd to allow for the 300 g of dough required to complete the red and green doughs (150g +150g) for the alternating strips of colour. The two pieces of 150g should be taken from the main dough at the halfway mixing stage. Then, when your mixer is free, mix the colour through the two doughs separately until clear. Ferment overnight with the main dough but wrap in plastic so they don’t stain the main dough head for your pastry. Next day laminate the dough 3-4-3. Then sheet both coloured doughs to 2 mm thick and square off as best you can. Cover in plastic and freeze for 10 minutes or until stiff but not frozen. Mark and cut into strips. The strips are placed one at a time, side by side, along the length of the pastry block. Trim off any excess and sheet in the direction of the stripes. Sheet to 3.5 mm thick. Cut into triangles 9 cm wide and 26 cm long Form into croissants, proof for 2 hours at 27 ℃, and bake at 162 ℃ for 18 minutes in a fan oven or 190 ℃ in a deck oven. Brush with sugar syrup (see recipe #36). Return to the oven for 3 minutes to set the sugar syrup and

cool

finishing

on with

wires fillings

before and

toppings.

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Process Detail Two Colour Bicolor Croissant 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Red Dough Mixing Take out 150 g dough weight after 5 minutes of mixing Add red colour and mix to clear the colour Green Dough Mixing Take out 150 g dough weight after 5 minutes of mixing Add green colour and mix to clear the colour Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1429 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Add the Red and Green Dough Pin each colour to 2 mm, and chill in the freezer to stiffen. Cut in strips 2 cm wide, and stick alternate colours on the laminated pastry Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm thick, 300 mm high × 700 mm long. Cutting Trim the top and bottom edges. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 25 cm high Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on a baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Spray with water Don’t eggwash the pastries. It distorts the colour Baking Fan oven 162 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 185 ℃ for 20 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water 20 g honey) Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Lesson #6 Twin Lamination 3-3-3

During my master’s degree studies in 2016, I developed a new form of pastry named Twin Lamination. I had never seen it made before and tackled it as my food development project. It consists of two blocks of croissant pastry. One is made as normal, and the other is made with chocolate butter. Both are laminated separately but with fewer layers and then merged. I experimented with over 100 combinations of lamination. The best results were found by laminating each pastry block 3-3-3 separately and then combining them, sheeting them together to get 37 layers. You can use any flavoured butter, and this process produces exciting and unique pastries for your friends and customers alike.

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9. Twin Lamination 3-3-3 × 2

Make one mix (or 2 for a larger quantity) in the recipe above. Divide the dough in half ( 2 × 448 g). Make two butter blocks using 125 g of butter, one as normal, and the other 125 g of butter is mixed on a KitchenAid with 15% cocoa powder to blend fully. A chocolate butter block is made from a normal mix of butter and chocolate. The butter blocks need to be chilled for use. The doughs are then rolled out, and the butter blocks are inserted as normal with a 3 lock-in. The lamination sequence will be 3-3-3 for each plain and chocolate butter block. I do both at the same time, side by side, on the pastry sheeter, and in this way, I can keep them the same size and shape throughout the process. Following the 3 lock-in, give both pastry blocks 2 × 3 folds so the pastry should now be at the 3-33 stage, and you will have 37 layers. If they are varied sizes, using a rolling pin, manually roll the pastry so they are the same size. Spray with water to make one top surface sticky, then, using a rolling pin, apply a little pressure to ensure both doughs stick together. Reduce the twin laminated pastry block to 12 mm thick. Wrap well in plastic and freeze for 30 minutes. Transfer to a refrigerator and rest for 30 minutes. The pastry can then be sheeted and cut into various shapes for croissants or pain au chocolat and fillings of choice, such as chocolate bars and/or candied orange peel added. The photos on the next pages illustrate the process of twin lamination. Page | 120

Process Detail Twin Laminated Croissant 3-3-3 – 19 Layers (× 𝟐)

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination at 3℃ Process Method 3-3-3 Lock-in 3 / 3-fold / 3 fold Layers Formed 19 Layers × 2 (Chocolate and plain) Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 573 g plain /591g chocolate Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm to 4mm 1st Folding 3 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm to 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Merging the two pastry blocks Spray the white dough with water and stick the chocolate on the top. Roll with a rolling pin to ensure the adhesion of both doughs. Reduce the thickness of the pastry Sheet the merged pastry to 12 mm, wrap it in plastic Chill Freezer for 30 minutes, then 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Final Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm Cutting Trim the top and bottom. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long; nor into Pain au Chocolat 8 cm wide ×14 cm long. Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissant, or shape into Pain au Chocolat Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Recap on Chocolate Flavoured Butter for Twin Lamination The critical difference between twin laminated pastry over bicolor pastry is preparing two separate laminated pastry blocks. Each has fewer layers, but when merged, they have an equal amount as most pastry-making systems. These are merged and then processed as one block of pastry. With Bicolor, you only prepare a sheet of non-laminated pastry added to the finished laminated pastry block. Chocolate butter is prepared by slowly mixing cocoa and butter on a KitchenAid-type stand mixer with a cake beater attachment. The butter and cocoa powder are mixed slowly, not creamed, until combined to form chocolate butter. The butter is then made into a butter block and chilled to 3 °C before lamination.

Base Recipes for Croissant Pastry Production The base croissant recipe will successfully make the most delicious, laminated pastry. Many variations can be made by altering the butter flavours with cocoa powder, instant coffee, raspberry powder, strawberry powder, orange and lemon rind and seaweed. Double the dough recipe and prepare two distinct kinds of butter. There are infinite choices, be creative.

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Lesson #7 Triple Laminated Pastry 3–4

Photo by @Petsch.Brot, Weinheim.

Page | 123

Delving into merging pastry methods, I made this Cappuccino triple laminated pastry using plain, chocolate and coffee-infused butter. I have refined the process over the years. Now I recommend making the three butter blocks and using a 3-4 lamination system to make the pastry. In this case, we follow the process from the twin lamination lesson and add an additional layer of coffee-flavoured pastry. The layer build is the 3-4 sequence. It produces 9 layers per pastry block. The three pastry blocks are then stacked and merged on top of each other. We now have 3 × 9 layers 27 (−2 DTP), giving this pastry 25 layers. You can make many product types from this pastry, but my favourite is cappuccino chocolate.

10. Triple Lamination Recipe Process Detail Triple Laminated 3-4 – 9 Layers (× 𝟑) Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4 Layers Formed Mixing Times

Dough Consistency When Mixed Scale each head Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Merging the three pastry blocks

Reduce the thickness of the pastry Chill Final Sheeting Cutting Shape Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination at 3 ℃ Lock-in 3 & one 4-fold 9 Layers × 3 (Chocolate, coffee and plain) KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed / 6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development 591 g × 3 of dough for each block of butter 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm to 4 mm 4-fold 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm to 5 mm None Spray the white dough with water and stick the chocolate on the top. Then add the coffee. Roll with a rolling pin to ensure the adhesion of both doughs. Sheet the merged pastry to 12 mm, wrap it in plastic Freezer for 30 minutes, then 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet to 3.5 mm and approximately 300 mm high × 70 mm long. Trim the top and bottom. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long, or into Pain au Chocolat 8 cm wide × 14 cm long Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissant, or shape into Pain au Chocolat Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 170℃ for 17 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Recommended Layering for Different Pastry Sizes/Weight Croissant:

5-4-3; 3-4-3 or 3-3-3-3;

Chocolatine: 3-4-4

Regarding internal structure, the more layers, the tighter the pastry. The holes or honeycomb will get smaller the more layers you build in your pastry. Conversely, the smaller the layers, the more open the internal structure and the flakier the pastry. Remember, the yeast will raise the dough component of the pastry and generate lift in the oven. Larger-sized pastries require a greater number of layers to support the increased mass. Processing the Pastry − Rolling Out the Croissants Calculating the final thickness of sheeting out the pastry can be measured and decided in advance by allowing an optimum thickness of 0.08 mm for each layer formed while making pastry. By counting the number of total layers formed when creating the pastry, for example, the 49 layers formed in the 5-4-3 system; or the 55 layers formed in the 3-3-3-/ 3 system. 0.08 mm × 49 (layers from 5-4-3 - system) = Sheeting thickness of 3.92 mm 0.08 mm × 55 (layers from 3-3-3/3 - system) = Sheeting thickness of 4.40 mm ➢ Sheet to between 3.5 mm − 4.4 mm or as required. ➢ Cut the pastry into the triangles as in the photos below with a large French knife. Roll the end slightly thinner to elongate the croissant base. Place the triangles in the freezer for 10 − 15 minutes to arrest fermentation and prevent shrinkage. ⮚ Make an incision in the middle of the base of the triangle 1 cm. ⮚ Each piece should weigh between 65 g − 75 g. ⮚ The croissants should be slightly stretched to resemble the Eiffel Tower in shape. ⮚ Roll out gently, not tight, from the bottom outwardly. ⮚ The croissant should freely open if held at the top and released. ⮚ You may need to chill them once cut if they appear to shrink. ⮚ If so, chill them in the freezer for 15 −20 minutes at −18 ℃.

Croissant and Chocolatine Cutting Guide Table All measurements are a personal choice. Some people prefer to work with exceptionally long triangles. Others like fewer coils/shoulders or feet for their croissant. The guide on the next page Page | 125

will help produce a variety of sizes of pastries, from large to mini, for breakfast buffets. All measurements are a guide. Lengths may be increased as desired. I suggest the following sizes: Croissant triangle ratio of 1: 3 and 1:3.75. Pain au Chocolat rectangle ratio of 1:1.75 and 1:3. Refer to the cutting size ratios for croissant and pain au chocolat below to ensure you cut your pastry into the correct sizes. The longer the triangle, the more shoulders you will have in the finished products. I have seen croissants cut 10 cm × 45 cm, too, so find a size/weight that works for you. The measurements highlighted in green on the following page in the cutting table on the next page are sizes I extensively use. Croissant and Pain au Chocolate Cutting Table

11. Eggwash in Recipes and Proofing Eggs weigh between 50 g- 65 g for regular sizes. We will assume an egg weight of 50 g for the following recipes: the yolk 25 g and the whites 25 g each. To make eggwash, whisk the components well together. Use a good pastry brush and avoid spilling/over-applying the eggwash on the pastry. I have listed many different eggwashes below. I avoid adding sugar or using a pure yolk wash as they caramelise too fast. I’ve also included some non-dairy recipes for eggwash used on vegan/vegetarian pastries. You can also use yoghurt, oil, butter, mayonnaise/vegan mayonnaise or Aquafaba. Page | 126

1. Eggwash

2. Milk/Egg 3. Egg/Cream

4. Ex Yolk Wash

5. Rich Eggwash

One egg

One egg

One egg

Two eggs

One egg

Water 20 g

Milk 20 g

Cream 20 g

One egg yolk

Two egg yolk

Pinch salt

Pinch salt

Pinch of salt

Pinch of salt

Heavy cream 15 g

6. Egg/Syrup

7. Egg White/Sugar

8. Dairy Free

9. Non-Dairy milk

One egg White

Egg white 50 g

Dairy free milk 50 g

Oat milk

Water 45 g

Sugar 10 g

Maple syrup 5 g

Rice milk

Syrup 12 g

Pinch salt

⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚

Soy milk

Proof at 26 ℃ − 27.5 ℃ with 75% − 80% relative humidity. It is important not to proof hotter as the butter layers will melt. Proofing time will always depend on temperature, amount of yeast and humidity. Proof time 1.5 − 2 hours +. You will know they are proofed when the layers visually begin to separate. Also, the “Wobble Test” by shaking the tray gently The proofed croissants should wobble like jelly. When egg-washing pastry, use a very soft artist’s paintbrush to apply the eggwash Take care not to deflate the pastry when brushing. Always take care not to brush the cut edges of the pastry with egg, This can reduce its final volume.

Baking Temperature Factors ⮚ Having the oven at the correct working temperature is essential. ➢ The preferred oven type for pastry is a fan or convection oven. However, using a deck oven requires a slightly hotter baking temperature setting of 200 ℃ with a heat intensity setting of 6 on top, 6 on the bottom and 6 at the door. The oven should be 25 ℃ hotter before loading, and the temperature reset after filling the oven with product and trays. ➢ The fan oven should be set at 220 ℃ to allow a temperature drop of approximately 50 ℃ during the oven loading before baking. ➢ After loading the fan oven, drop the temperature to between 170 ℃ − 175 ℃ depending on the oven type and the pastry's size, as each oven has unique characteristics. The pastries should be egg washed and allowed to stand for 10 minutes to enable the egg to soak into the outside, then baked for 14 − 20 minutes. A little steam can be added to the oven after loading, but it is not essential.

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After Baking − Care of Pastry ⮚ ⮚ ⮚ ⮚

Allow the pastries to cool slightly on the tray before moving them. Place them on a wire tray to allow the air to circulate around the bottom so they cool Do not stack pastry items on each other when warm, as they will collapse. Store in airtight containers if not on display for sale to extend their shelf life.

The addition of salt to the eggwash helps to breakdown the chalazae, which hold the yolk in place in the egg, giving a more homogeneous mix and uniform eggwash with no lumps of tissue in the wash.

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Section 2 Other Recipes and Techniques

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12. Cranberry Custard Twists 3-4-3

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Process Detail Cranberry Custard Twists 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-4 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 4-fold Layers Formed 33 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1112 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 4 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm thick and a rectangle of approximately 300 mm high. 600 mm long. Crème Pâtisserie and Cranberries Spread 350 g crème pâtisserie (recipe #34) over the bottom half of the pastry, leaving 2 cm free on the bottom edge free of custard to seal the pastry. Sprinkle 250 g – 300 g of dried cranberries over the custard. Spray the bottom edge with water to moisten and fold the top down to seal. Gently roll the rolling pin over the pastry to close it and embed the cranberries Cutting Then cut into rectangles 4 cm wide × 15 cm high. The yield is approximately 15 pieces. Shape Slightly stretch and roll up in opposite directions, holding the seam firmly to get a twist Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 22 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Glazing Brush with nappage or boiled apricot jam Fondant Thread or dip in thin white fondant and allow to dry

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13. Blitz Croissant Pastry

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Process Detail Blitz Croissant 5-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 5-4-3 Lock-in 5 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 49 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1112 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 5 – Sprinkle 1.5 cm cubes of butter over 3 / 4 of the dough. Fold over to form 2 layers of butter / 3 layers of dough Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ The pastry is now ready to sheet and process

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14. Erica’s Ultimate Portuguese Custard Tart For generations, Portuguese people have enjoyed Portugal's classic and traditional pastry, this iconic tart. Recently, the millions of sunseekers who holiday in Portugal every year seek it out as a local delicacy to be enjoyed over coffee in the many cafes and bakeries in the major tourist resorts. It has become a mainstream global product in the past number of years, such is its popularity. This recipe will give you 12 – 15 tarts in 8 cm (W) × 2 cm (H) aluminium custard tart moulds. Custard Filling Ingredients 20 g 250 g 100 g 150 g 75 g 100 g 3 1

Corn starch/cornflour Whole milk Heavy/double cream Caster sugar/white sugar Water Egg yolks (4) Strips of fresh lemon peel Cinnamon stick

Making the Custard Filling 1. Add the milk, cream, starch, lemon peel, and cinnamon stick in a saucepan. 2. Place on medium heat, stirring with a hand whisk to thicken and starts to boil. 3. In a second pan, add water and sugar and prepare a sugar syrup to the thread stage (103 °C/217 °F) without stirring. 4. Slowly add the sugar syrup to the prepared cream mixture. Allow to cool. 5. Add the egg yolks and mix well before passing through a sieve to discard the lemon peel, cinnamon stick, and other lumps. Set aside. Ingredients: Puff Pastry 250 g 150 g 3g 200 g

Flour plain/all-purpose/T−55 flour Coldwater Salt Butter unsalted

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Making the Puff Pastry (3-3-3 / 3-3 − 169 layers in total) 1. Place the flour, water, and salt in a bowl. Mix until there is no dry flour. 2. Place the dough on a clean surface and work it until it’s elastic or mix on a stand mixer for 2 minutes on slow speed and another 3 minutes on 2nd speed. 3. Shape it into a ball, cut a cross on top of it, and let it rest for 30 minutes in a refrigerator. 4. Make a 10 × 10 cm butter block with the cold butter. Do this by putting the butter between sheets of baking paper and rolling it out with a rolling pin. 5. Place the dough on a cold surface dusted with little flour. Roll the dough out into a rectangle using a rolling pin until it’s double the size of the butter (20 × 20 cm). 6. Place the 10 × 10 cm butter in the middle of the dough and close it so it is wrapped inside it. There will be 3 layers at this stage: dough-butter-dough. 7. Sheet out the dough in a rectangular shape, reducing in thickness to 7 mm. 8. After rolling out the first rectangle, fold it in 3 like a letter, a half-turn, or a 3-fold. Then turn it 90° and roll it out again. Fold it again and place it in the fridge for 30 minutes. Repeat this process 2 more times. After the final sheeting process, the dough must rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours before making the tarts. (For a detailed explanation of the lamination process, see The Art of Lamination or this YouTube tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=rKvDjMQDySY) Assembling the Tart

1.

Roll out the dough in a rectangular shape to 5 mm thick. Make a thin pastry roll by rolling it up like a Swiss roll. It will have the form of a long cylinder of pastry.

2. 3.

Divide and cut the cylinder into 1.5 cm slices, about 38 g–46 g per tart for each tin.

Using wet thumbs with water, press the slice, cut side up, into the bottom of each tin and work it around, leaving edges a little bit thicker than in the centre (about 8 cm in diameter and 2 cm in height).

4.

Preheat the oven to 250 °C (482 °F) or the maximum temperature. (Heat the top and bottom with a fan if this function is available in your oven.)

5. 6.

Pour the filling into tins but not to the top—leave a gap of about 3 mm.

Place the tins on a tray on the oven sole so that the pastry will puff up and the filling gets ever so slightly burnt on the outside but remains light and creamy on the inside.

7.

When the edge of the pastry gets golden brown, and the filling is slightly scorched on the top, remove them from the oven.

8. 9.

After the tarts cool down a little, use the tip of a knife to release the tarts from the tins. Sprinkle cinnamon powder on top and enjoy with your favourite beverage!

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15. Bears Claws

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You will note that this pastry has a 50/50 egg-to-water ratio and increased laminated butter%. The increase in egg and butter adds to the eating quality. It makes this a soft-eating pastry with a nice mouthfeel and buttery flavour.

Process Detail Bears Claws 3-4-4 – 33 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-4 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 4-fold Layers Formed 33 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1192 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 4 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 4 mm in thickness Cutting Then cut into rectangles 10 cm long × 8 cm wide. Roll the marzipan into sticks and place them in the middle of the squares. Moisten the lips, fold over and seal. Shape Cut the edges evenly in 3 places and bend the pastry so the slits open. Eggwash and dip in split or sliced almond flakes Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 23 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack. Dust with icing sugar

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16. Once Baked Almond Croissant

Almond croissants can be made from scratch, as in the above photo. They can also be made with leftover croissants (also known as twice-baked ones), which is a terrific way of using leftovers from the previous day's bake. We used to sell so many. We baked fresh croissants, especially to have almond croissants in stock. Both approaches use almond cream as both the filling and the topping. You must make up the almond cream in advance and store it in the refrigerator. We made a large batch using a recipe with 6 kg of butter, and this did us for a few days at a time. Prepare the rum syrup in advance, too. Page | 138

17. Rum Syrup Recipe 100 g 100 g 10 g

Sugar Water Red rum or rum essence

Boil the sugar and water; allow to cool, then add 10 g of red rum and brush into croissant crumb. Store in the refrigerator when not in use.

18. Almond Cream Recipe 500 g 70 g 450 g 500 g 65 g 500 g 3g 20 g

Butter Pastry flour Egg Castor sugar Red rum Ground almonds Salt Bitter almond essence

Cream the butter, flour, sugar, and ground almonds until fluffy. Add the egg and almond essence over three additions. Then pipe a small blob of almond cream into the triangle's centre at the bottom. To finish, sprinkle some rum-soaked raisins on the almond cream. Fold the pastry over to seal the almond cream in the centre. Pipe a thin strip of almond cream over the top of the folded croissant and dip it in flaked or sliced almonds. Proof 90 – 120 minutes at 28 ℃. Bake 180 ℃ for 20 minutes fan oven or 200 ℃ deck oven. Dust with icing sugar when cool.

19. Almond Croissant Twice Baked Take the leftover croissants you require; they are cut in half, the crumb brushed with the rum syrup, piped with a strip of almond cream, and the top is piped with more almond cream. The croissant is dipped into almond flakes. The almond croissants are baked for 15 − 20 minutes at 180 °C, cooled, and dredged in icing sugar. If dusted when still warm, the icing sugar will turn yellow and look less attractive.

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Lesson # 8 Cross-Lamination Two-tone, three-tone or four-tone pastry can be made up using the earlier techniques. For example, in the case of a cross-laminated single colour, a chocolate croissant dough is made using coloured butter and a smaller number of layers, the 3-3-3 system. The pastry is then frozen in a block, and when semi-hard, it is sliced into strips, and the strips are placed facing up on top of a chilled plain croissant block of dough until the dough is entirely covered. The block of pastry is then sheeted, ensuring that the layers on the top are stretched to elongate them and not widen the layers, as this will lose the effect of crosslamination.

Examples of Cross Lamination Techniques Our next recipe will be Pain Suisse, an extremely popular and

trendy

pastry.

This

example of cross-lamination on the right was made using raspberry

butter.

30

g

of

raspberry powder was added to 300 g of butter and beaten on a kitchen

aid.

The

raspberry

butter was removed from the mixing bowl, and a butter block was made. The pastry was laminated 3-4-4, 12 mm thick, and cut in half. Set one half aside. Cut strips 10 mm wide from the other half and place them on the top of the other half of the pastry in straight lines to make the cross-lamination effect explained in the next section.

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Using 10% − 15% freeze-dried fruit powders, flavoured butter can be made. Examples include vanilla, citron, raspberry, strawberry, blackberry, and mango. All add exceptional colour and flavour to the pastry. Simply add 10%− 15% freeze-dried fruit powder per 100 g of lamination butter used in your recipes. Place in a stand mixer with a beater attachment, mix on slow to incorporate and make a normal butter block.

The coloured pastry dough is laminated 3-4 as separate doughs and then stacked together

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The three stacked colours are sheeted to 15 mm, cut in half, and merged. The pastry is then reduced to 12 mm and rested for half an hour in the freezer at − 18 ℃. Two-tone or three-tone pastry can be made up using the techniques mentioned earlier. The three pastry blocks merge as one block and freeze to a semisolid state. Cut in half, wet, and stack the frozen pastry halves on top of each other, sheet to 12 mm and slice into 5 mm thick strips placed onto a block of croissant dough facing up. The dough is then sheeted in the same direction as the cut, exposed layers, elongating the top layers and not widening them when sheeting the pastry. The pastry should be rolled in the direction of the black arrows, in the direction of, and with the cut layers' flow, as seen above. Otherwise, the layers will widen instead of elongating. The cross-lamination effect will be lost if care is not taken.

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20. Pain Suisse Cross Lamination

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Process Detail Pain Suisse 3-4-3 – 25 Layers

Desired Dough 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough Temperature is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 4-fold Layers Formed 25 Layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 – 10 minutes on medium speed; Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed /6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency Smooth and firm; good development Weight (1 Mix) 1351 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Size 250 mm high ×170 mm wide (approximately) 1st Sheet to Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 900 mm long × 250 mm high 1st Folding 4 fold; pastry will be roughly 230 mm long × 220 mm high Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator 2nd Sheet to Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm; 840 mm × 230 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold; roughly 280 mm × 230 mm, reduce to 12 − 15 mm Chill 30 minutes in the freezer, 30 minutes at 3 ℃ Cut the pastry in half Take one half of the pastry and mark it in 5 mm pieces Water spray Spray the top of the other half with water Mark & cut other 1/2 Cut the 5 mm pieces into strips using a very sharp knife Lay the cut strips with layers facing upwards along the top of the other half-block of pastry. Line them up carefully, sticking them together using water. Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm thick in the direction of the layers and never to the side of the layers Cutting Divide the pastry into 350 mm lengths, ensuring that the layers run from top to bottom Fill Fill the middle of the cut pastry with crème pâtisserie & chocolate chips. Moisten and seal over the top and bottom to the centre and turn over the pastry with the layers facing top to bottom Cutting Divide and cut into 4 cm – 5 cm strips Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Brush with syrup Remove from the baking tray and brush with the sugar syrup; return to the oven for three minutes to set the glaze Cooling Cool on a wire rack and dust as desired with icing sugar.

Note: This recipe will yield approximately 18 pastries

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21. Four Colour Cross Lamination

Create the four-colour Christmas-coloured effect, which became the cover of my first book, The Art of Lamination. This pastry was made by colouring three different doughs, red, green, pink, and plain. I used 1 g of bake-stable powdered colour from Deco Relief in each dough (see recipe #7 for the link to Deco Relief). The butter was not coloured. I used my base croissant recipe #1 but with no egg. I made a double recipe size of 3548 g dough and divided the dough in half, 1774 g each. Then, I divided the remaining half of the dough into four pieces of 443 g each and coloured three small doughs, red, pink, and green, using food colour. Each of the 4 small, coloured doughs was laminated 3-4, stacked on top of each other, reduced to 12 mm, and chilled for 30 minutes. The large plain dough was laminated 3-4-3 with 500 g of butter and rested in the freezer for 35 minutes. Note: This is a large recipe that needs to be made using a pastry sheeter. I sheet to the width of my pastry sheeter when making these, and I have posted an abbreviated process on the following pages using photos and text.

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Cut the coloured doughs in half and stack one on top of the other to get double the layers. Then I carefully marked and cut the four-colour dough into 5 mm strips. Refer to the cross-lamination instructions in lesson #8. The multi-coloured cut layers are laid down on the plain dough, facing upwards neatly, and each layer is sprayed with water to help them stick together. The pastry is then sheeted, marked, and cut to size.

I cut croissant 9 cm wide × 28 cm long: Pain au Chocolate 8 cm wide × 15 cm long. The arrows above show how to correctly sheet the cross-laminated pastry before cutting. I sheeted it to 4 mm thick. I made various chocolatines and croissants from them using chocolate bars, strawberry, and cherry fillings. I have included an instructional video on making homemade chocolate bars on YouTube. I used freeze-dried strawberry pieces in the chocolate bars to give the pastry some zing. Follow the link below to see the video making the strawberry chocolate bars. https://youtu.be/0wMbMnD5ZxY

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Four-colour-proofed chocolatine with vertical lines and an un-proofed croissant with horizontal lines above.

With Michelin Star Chef Dr JP McMahon in Galway during the pandemic, when masks had to be worn Page | 148

Process Detail 4 Colour Cross Lamination

Desired Dough Temperature

Method 3-4 for the 4 small doughs 3-4-3 for the large dough Layers Formed Mixing Times Dough Consistency When Mixed Scale each head Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding all 5 pastry blocks Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding small pastry blocks 2nd Folding large pastry block Merging the four pastry blocks

Reduce the thickness of the pastry Chill Cut the pastry Water spray Lay cross-laminated colour strips

Sheeting Cut, shape and proof Proof Spray with water Baking Glaze with sugar glaze Cooling Dust using stencil

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination at 3 ℃ Lock-in 3 & one 4-fold Lock-in 3, 4-fold and 3-fold for the base dough 9 Layers × 4 (plain, green, pink, red), coffee and plain) 25 layers formed in the plain base dough Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed / 6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed. Mix the small doughs on a stand mixer Smooth and firm; good development 443 g × 4 of dough for each small dough head, 1g of colour to colour the green, pink, and red doughs. 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Wrap the coloured doughs separately in plastic 3. Prepare 1 × 500 g and 4 × 125 g butter blocks Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm to 4 mm 4-fold 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm to 5 mm None 3-fold Spray the white dough with water and stick the pink on the top. Then add the red and the green. Roll with a rolling pin to ensure the adhesion of all the doughs. Sheet the merged pastry to 12 mm, cut it in half and stack it again. Then wrap it in plastic Freezer for 45 minutes, then 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Mark and cut the pastry into 5 mm strips and cross laminate Spray the top of the other half with water Lay the cut strips with layers facing upwards along the top of the large pastry block. Line them up carefully, sticking them together using water Sheet to 3.5 mm thick in the direction of the layers and never to the side of the layers Cut Croissant 9 cm × 28 cm; Cut Chocolatines 8 cm × 15 cm Proof 2 to 2.5 hours at 27 ℃ Don’t eggwash Fan oven 162℃ for 17 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Glaze with sugar glaze and return to oven for 3 minutes to set the glaze Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Dust with Icing sugar and raspberry dipped in icing sugar

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Viennoiserie Using Sourdough I am often asked if a sourdough-only croissant is better than a classic croissant, and the answer is complex. The process takes an exceptionally long time and takes up lots of space in the refrigerator for several days. In my view, it is not commercial for mainstream bakeries due to the time, space, trays, and massive

energy

costs

which

must

be

considered when making them. Sourdough croissant production is often wrongly compared to being like Panettone production, but to be clear, it is no such thing! Panettone fermentation temperatures are at or above the range of 28 ℃ − 32 ℃, encouraging the development of Lactic Acid Bacteria or LABS. These temperatures are too high for croissant production as the butter would melt, destroying the layering. For all croissant production, sourdough included, the key production methods are to ensure the dough is held cold between 3 ℃ − 4 ℃. When all lamination is complete, at these cool temperatures, gradual proofing is completed at a range of between 26 ℃ − 28 ℃. The sourdough fermentation is already struggling due to the high butter quantities, which slow down and retard the fermentation. Acid development rather than LABS development occurs in this lower temperature range. If the sourdough starter in the dough is sluggish, it may take a lot of time to proof. The long fermentation at this lower temperature encourages acid production. Sourdough, over time, will denature the gluten matrix and cause it to break down. Often, sourdough croissants collapse for this very reason. I have added in the next section how to make liquid sourdough from scratch. The chapter is detailed but will help you, the reader, to create and maintain your own liquid sourdough, which you can use in your croissant pastry. I am also including a recipe for a hybrid croissant made with yeast and sourdough, so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. The next chapter on creating and maintaining a viable starter comes from one of my other books, Family Secrets The Recipes Part – 1. The sourdough makes excellent bread and pastry, and I hope you will enjoy making it and maintaining it for your baking. Page | 150

22. Making Liquid Sourdough Sourdough is a living thing. Like every living thing, it requires care to get the best out of it. Think of it as a farm animal/domestic animal; it needs water, food, warmth, shelter (a container to live in) and consistency to thrive. Equipment List ➢ Container - a small jar with a lid or a transparent plastic container with a lid. ➢ Spatula or spoons/or/and digital scales if you have one. If not, we use teaspoons! ➢ Wholemeal flour unbleached; untreated, or wholemeal rye flour and baker’s flour untreated. ➢ Probe digital thermometer. ➢ Warm, filtered water. ➢ Elastic band to monitor growth. ➢ A sticky label to name your sourdough (mine is called Covid Culture 2020) and record the weight. Leave it in a warm place, out of sunlight, and to ferment. 1. Good Hygiene: Wash your hands and other implements, such as spoons, wooden spoons, and whisks/spatulas, before you start. Weigh/measure all ingredients accurately and mix well together using the end of a spoon or spatula. 2. Use a clean Kilner jar with a lid (no gasket needed), a glass Bolognese or jam jar or a plastic container with a lid, washed in hot soapy water, rinsed thoroughly and dried. 3. Do not seal the lid; this allows the CO2 gas produced by the sourdough's fermentation to release into the atmosphere. 4. Do not use a metal container, as the acid generated by the sourdough will react with the metal, creating corrosion and giving the sourdough a horrible metallic taste and discolouration. 5. Flour: Use organic, untreated whole grain flour, wheat, spelt rye, or other ancient grains such as Einkorn, Durum, and gluten-free flour. In fact, all grains can be used to make a sourdough starter. 6. Probe the digital thermometer to ensure a consistent feeding water temperature. 7. Warm filtered water: ➢ Tap water contains chlorine/fluoride, which is put there to kill bacteria. We want to preserve and encourage wild yeasts and bacteria to grow. Using filtered water, we help the process by filtering out any harmful added chemicals to the tap water, which may delay the wild yeasts and bacteria's action in your sourdough.

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➢ If tap water is left to stand for a few days, depending on the levels of treatment by your local water supply, the evaporation time of added Chlorine from tap water can be projected. It is estimated that the 2 ppm of Chlorine in tap water will take up to 5 days or around 120 hours to evaporate from 10 US gallons of water when left to stand in an open container. ➢ If you don't have a water filter, you can boil the tap water for 15 minutes and cool it before use. This process is expensive and should only be used as a last resort. ➢ You can use bottled, filtered water; just ensure no chlorine is present in your starter.

Wild yeasts and Lactobacilli are sensitive to temperature. By being consistent with the water temperature, the sourdough will learn to ferment consistently. Initially, add warm water (45 ℃ ) to the flour each time. The warmth will stimulate the bacteria and wild yeasts in the developing sourdough to promote fermentation. The temperature of the sourdough will be approximately 30 ℃ − 32 ℃, which is ideal for growing sourdough. Your sourdough will become its unique colony of microflora, wild yeasts, and bacteria with many uses in bread and pastry baking, so care for it. On days 1 − 3, the feeding quantities and the water feeding temperatures of 45 ℃ are maintained and remain the same. By day three, carbon dioxide gas will be visible, and the sourdough will develop acetic tones when you smell it. Day 4: the quantities of water and flour are doubled as the natural fermentation becomes visible. The microorganisms are growing and require extra food and water; the water temperature is reduced to 20 ℃ − 25 ℃ to slow down and control the fermentation. Day 5: The quantities of flour and water are again maintained as double the day one quantity. The water is added at 20 ℃ − 25 ℃. When mixed, the dough is left to ferment overnight for 24 hours. The sourdough is now maturing, has many visible bubbles of CO2 gas, and has an acidy note when smelled.

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Day 1, the first feed. Quantity in grams

Quantity in teaspoons

Water

15

4

White organic bread flour

5

1

Wholemeal or dark rye flour

5

1

Note: Use mediumheaped teaspoons when measuring the flour.

Total weight in grams

Water temperature

45 ℃ − 50 ℃

25

Allow the 28 g of sourdough to ferment in a warm place for 24 hours 25 g Day one starter Day 2.The second feed. Water

15

4

White organic bread flour

5

1

Wholemeal or dark rye flour

5

1

Day 1 ferment

25

45 ℃ − 50 ℃

50

Allow to ferment in a warm place for 24 hours 50 g Day one & two starter Day 3.The third feed Water

15

4

White organic bread flour

5

1

Wholemeal or dark rye flour

5

1

Day 2 ferment

50

45 ℃ − 50 ℃

75

Allow to ferment in a warm place for 24 hours 75 g Days 1−3 starters Day 4.The fourth feed Water

30

8

White organic bread flour

10

2

Wholemeal or dark rye flour

10

2

Day 3 ferment

75

20 ℃ − 25 ℃

125

Allow to ferment in a warm place for 24 hours 125 g Days 1−4 starters

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Day 5.The fifth feed Water

30

8

White organic bread flour

10

2

Wholemeal or dark rye flour

10

2

Day 4 ferment

125

20 ℃ −25 ℃

175

Allow to ferment in a warm place for 24 hours 175 g Days 1−5 starters Day 6. Ready to make sourdough? The starter is mature. After 24 hours of fermentation, five feeds, the sourdough is ready to use on day 6 to make bread

You should always hold back some of your starters to make more sourdough for future baking. Keep half the weight of what you require. Below is a guide for feeding and maintaining your mature starter. Your starter begins to be large enough, say after day three, after feeding the starter. Place an elastic band over the jar or container and mark the starter level you have just mixed. You can monitor its progress overnight and see whether it has doubled or tripled in volume since you fed it last. Feeding your starter once mature Note: Use medium-heaped teaspoons when measuring the flour.

Quantity in grams

Quantity in teaspoons

Mature starter

50

10

Water

30

8

White strong flour

10

2

Wholemeal flour

10

2

Total weight:

100 g

Total Water weight temperature in grams

20 ℃ − 25 ℃

100 g

Allow to ferment in a warm place for 24 hours 100 g of starter

You can double the recipe's size to double the quantity of starter you require or increase or decrease the amounts depending on how much is needed.

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Notes on Refreshing The flour you use in your starter will determine the flavour of your starter and your bread/pastry. You can choose to refresh using ➢ Rye and baker's flour for brown/seeded loaves ➢ Baker’s flour and wholemeal flour for whole grain and seeded loaves ➢ Just baker's flour for classic white sourdough – best for croissants It is important to keep the flour ratios the same all the time. The temperature of your room and the water you use will speed up the rate of fermentation when the room or the water used to refresh is hotter. It will slow fermentation when the water is used, or the starter's storage area is colder. Depending on your bakery or room's ambient temperature, you must always adjust these factors seasonally. Feeding the Sourdough Like a farm animal, the sourdough must be fed, watered daily, and kept warm above 20 ℃ when baking. What If I Only Use My Sourdough Once a Week? Suppose you are only using your sourdough once per week to bake. In that case, you should feed the sourdough as above, but then place it into a refrigerator, covered at 3 ℃ −4 ℃. This will slow down the starter, and it will go into suspended animation/storage mode. When you plan on baking again, take the starter out of the refrigerator the day before and refeed it, leaving it overnight, then make the dough the following day with the refreshed starter. It's a good idea to know what weight of starter you have. You can weigh your starter into a clean jar and label it. Keep several clean glass jars handy for refreshing and storing your starters. Starter-a Symbiotic Relationship of Yeast and Bacteria The wild yeasts, Lactic Acid Bacteria (LABS) and the Acetic Acid Bacteria (AABS) sustain each other's exitance in what is a mutually beneficial or symbiotic relationship in a starter and when used to produce sourdough bread. According to the United States Department of Agriculture's (USDA) database, 100 g of wholemeal flour has approximately 0.4 g of sugar. Enriched white flour has about 1.11 g of sugar, of which 0.3 grams is fructose and 0.03 g is glucose. In a mature starter, the wild yeasts feed on these simple sugars, break down the starch in the flour, and convert the starch into glucose and simple sugars. The LABS feed on the simple sugars produced by the wild yeasts, which also produce alcohol as a by-product of fermentation. The AABS feed on the alcohol produced by the wild yeasts to create Acetic Acid, which is desirable in sourdough production. Page | 155

Qualities of a Good Starter ➢ It should be reliable and consistent when fed and when the dough is made. ➢ It should have good tolerance and impart good flavour and strength to the bread made from it. ➢ The bread and starter's aroma should be pleasant and balanced, neither bland nor sour. ➢ Acetic Acid's/Lactic Acid ratios should be 1 part of Acetic Acidic to 3 parts of Lactic Acid. These ratios are accepted as the best balance of the established starter colony. Starter Ph? Typically, the pH of a mature starter culture ranges between 3.9 to a figure of 4.1. Using whole grain rye flour or wholemeal to feed a starter will make the starter more acidic than when only white wheat flour is used. This occurs due to wholegrain flour's many additional nutrients and wild yeasts.

23. Making Sourdough Pastry Process It is possible to make croissants and viennoiserie using only natural sourdough, dosage levels of up to 28%− 30% of total flour weight and eliminating yeast from the mix. The recipe on the next page will produce excellent croissants using the overnight fermentation method detailed earlier in the book. But this process will take three days. The pastry is made as follows using the 3-4-3 system. Day 1: Feed the starter, leave for 6 hours, and then make the dough. Ferment for 2 − 3 hours. Chill overnight at 3 ℃. Day 2: Make butter block, do a lock-in-3, then laminate with a 4-fold, followed by a 3-fold. Rest in the refrigerator for 40 minutes. Shape and wrap in plastic 20 ℃ − 22 ℃ for 5 − 6 hours, then place in the refrigerator overnight at 3 ℃ (you may also use 5-4-3 or any other lamination system you want). Day 3: Remove from refrigerator, eggwash and stand for 40 minutes to 1 hour. Proof until they jiggle. Please note that the final proof could take 5 − 7 hours. Not a product for the faint-hearted due to the 3 days required to produce them. Bake the croissants in a fan oven at 175 ℃ − 180 ℃ or a deck oven at 200 ℃.

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Notes on Sourdough Croissant Production The high butter content in the recipe will inhibit/slow down drastically the fermentation of natural sourdough. The sourdough should be highly active and refreshed at least twice for 3.5 hours between feeds and expand 2.5 − 3 times its mixed size for 3 hours before mixing it into the croissant dough. When adding to the croissant dough, the target pH of 4.1 is where the sourdough should be. The sourdough should not be too acidic as it will cause the dough to collapse during extended fermentation. The acidity weakens the gluten matrix, breaking it down. The dough should be mixed in the manner specified earlier, without the addition of commercial yeast and allowed to ferment for between 2 − 3 hours at 20 ℃ − 22 ℃ until doubled in size; then stored overnight in a refrigerator between 3 ℃ − 4 ℃. The dough can then be processed as normal, but it may take up to three times longer to proof (between 5 hours − 6 hours+). Check using the wobble test, looking for airspaces between the layers, and the pastry should have doubled in size from when first shaped.

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24. 100% Sourdough Croissant

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Sourdough croissants will generally colour more than standard croissants, so you may have to reduce the oven heat by 10℃ or dilute your eggwash with milk to stop them from colouring too swiftly in the oven.

Process Detail Sourdough Only Croissant 3-4-3 Desired Dough Temperature 28 ℃. This is a two-day process once the sourdough is ready. Allow three days if making/refresh your sourdough Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Sourdough Liquid N.B. -Prepare 1 day in advance Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1263 g Fermentation Time 2 − 3 hours bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet to 3.5 mm Approximately 28 cm high × 80cm in length. Trim the top and bottom. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long and shape into croissants; tray up and bulk ferment for 5 − 6 hrs Cover well and chill Chill overnight as shaped croissant Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries More Proof Proof for another 1 to 2 hours if the volume is small Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

Note: Sourdough croissants are not as good as those made from scratch with yeast. They lack the volume, period. If you are a home baker, you can tie up your fridge for three days with them. Still, I think they are not commercially viable in a production scenario. The costs are prohibitive unless you get an enormous price for them and sell them at a premium price. Additionally, sourdough cultures ferment best at temperatures over 30 ℃. This temperature will melt the butter in the proofing croissants at 28 ℃ to 30 ℃. A good balance is to make hybrid croissants which contain sourdough and yeast. The recipe is on the next page. Page | 159

25. Hybrid Croissant 20% Sourdough and Yeast

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Process Detail Hybrid Croissant Pastry 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed /6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 2273 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm/ Cutting Cut into 9 cm wide × 28 cm long the triangles Shape and Tray up Shape and place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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26. Hand Laminated Croissant 50% Preferment & Sourdough

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Process Detail Hand Laminated Croissant 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is a same-day fermentation method (once preferment is made the previous day) where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled, then laminated Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4- fold / 3- fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 3 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1798 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then 60 minutes in the refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm/ Cutting Cut into 9 cm wide × 28 cm long the triangles Shape and Tray up Shape and place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

The dough is fermented at room temperature for 45 minutes, degassed, and rolled out using a rolling pin into a rectangle. It is then placed on a tray, covered with plastic and chilled for 2 hours in a refrigerator. The dough should reach a temperature of 3 ℃ − 4 ℃. The butter block should be prepared and placed in the refrigerator until required. The dough is then taken from the refrigerator along with the butter block. I used the 3-4-3 system for croissants and the 3-4-4 system for pain au chocolat.

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Production notes: The lock-in is performed. Giving the dough all its turns together is possible, providing the room and surfaces you work on are cool. I recommend that the make-up is staggered in warm climates, placing the pastry back to chill for 30 minutes in a refrigerator or freezer until cool enough to work. The pastry may need a little bit of extra dusting flour when processing. When all the turns are completed, and the pastry is chilled and rested, it is ready to process, sheet as normal, cut, shape and proof. The pastry will be quite active, and I noticed that the croissants and pain au chocolat will proof quicker than normal. The science behind this method is to make an overnight preferment using 50% of the flour in the recipe and let the enzymes do most of the work on the gluten during fermentation. As many of the bakers online also bake sourdough, I added just under 10% sourdough to the recipe, adding extra flavour and extensibility to the dough. The protease degrades the protein overnight during fermentation, improving extensibility and making the dough a pleasure to roll.

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The pastry is now ready to sheet and process. I regularly engage with international bakers of all proficiency levels on online platforms such as Facebook and Instagram. I assist them with problems and help them achieve improved results in laminated pastry making. One of the most consistent issues I identified from these platforms was those who handlaminated. Pastry elastic recoil presented problems for many while hand-rolling, so I have formulated this special new recipe to address this. I have test-baked the recipe several times, adjusting the preferment, hydration, and the process sequence. The result is a very pleasant-tasting pastry, which hand rolls extremely well due to

the

dough’s

hydration, fermentation

increased

overnight and

use

preof

sourdough. The flour used by bakers in different countries varies greatly. In Canada, for example, patent flour can be strong, with protein levels typically 10.0% – 12.5% (12.8% – 14.5% dry basis) and an ash content of: 0.35% – 0.55% (0.41% – 0.64% dry basis). My learned Canadian friend, Alan Dumonceaux (CDM) and World Masters Viennoiserie candidate, recommended a preferment technique for those who only had strong flour. This process is a two-day process, where day 1, a preferment is made, the sourdough is added, and the dough is fermented overnight at room temperature 18 ℃ − 22 ℃. On day 2, the preferment is mixed into a dough with 50% of the flour and the remaining ingredients. I made this recipe with up to 57% hydration (using 13% extra-strong baker’s flour). Still, I found that the wetter dough required much more dusting flour and was quite sticky and not too easy to handle. I recommend using 52% − 55% hydration for strong flour; use less if the flour is not strong. Have fun, everyone! Home Bakers’ Sheeting Hack Many home bakers struggle with rolling pastry evenly when making the laminated pastry by hand. If the pastry is rolled unevenly, the pastry will be of different weights/thicknesses. The Page | 165

underlying layers suffer, causing a lack of volume, poor internal texture, and misshaped baked pastries. If the pastry is thick on one side and thin on the other, the thin side will colour more rapidly in the oven than the thick side and may burn, ruining the product. A nifty hack uses rulers, or wooden batons/lats, which can be purchased at your local hardware store. They come in numerous thicknesses and can be cut to size for you in many stores which offer wood-cutting services. I would recommend two sizes to start, 3.5 mm and 4 mm. You also need a long rolling pin extending well beyond the pastry's width and wooden guides. I have made a YouTube video on rolling the pastry with the wooden guides and inserted the link below. I hope you find it useful.

Hand lamination hack using wooden guides https://youtu.be/fyRCB4G4-Qo

In the next chapter, I will cover basic puff pastry items and recipes. As puff pastry has no yeast in it, the pastry is totally reliant on lamination (known as mechanical aeration) to generate lift during baking. The process is longer, and there are longer resting times required. Allowing the pastry to recover/rest in between lamination sequences is important. Otherwise, the pastry may tear, or the layers will break down, and the volume of the pastry will be poor.

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Section 3 - Puff Pastry

The first recognised puff pastry recipe or pâte feuilletée was documented in François Pierre de la Varenne’s 1653 book, Le Pâtissier François. This iconic historical cookbook was the first to record recipes and methods of the French pastry arts (Goldstein & Mintz, 2015). According to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) (2016:289). Puff paste is a non-yeasted pastry, and what makes it fundamentally different to croissant pastry is that it has no yeast for leavening. Always use cold/chilled liquid additions, such as egg, milk or water from the refrigerator when making it. Puff pastry also has more lamination sequences than croissant pastry as it relies totally on a single method of leavening, known as mechanical aeration, or the formation of many more layers to provide the pastry with lift in the absence of yeast. Croissant pastry enjoys two forms of raising, mechanical and fungal. The mechanical lamination/aeration formed during sheeting and folding coupled with fungal aeration. The fermentation of yeast and the development of CO2 gas bubbles trapped in the gluten matrix provide lots of lift in the pastry and require far fewer sheeting processes than puff pastry. Puff pastry can be made and processed in one day. In contrast, croissants need overnight fermentation to make an authentic product. Both croissants and puff pastry require resting periods. In the next section, I will include a mandatory resting period between folding, denoted by a forward slash or /, and written as 3-3-3 / 3. I recommend resting for at least an hour where you see the symbol / in the lamination sequence for the pastry to relax and chill. You can make good puff pastry in a one-day process. Still, I recommend allowing the pastry to rest overnight in a refrigerator for the best results. As no proofing process is required for puff pastry, don’t be tempted to bake it off as soon as it is sheeted and processed. The pastry needs time to recover after processing. It needs to be carefully covered or placed back in the refrigerator for at least an hour after sheeting before baking. The pastry will shrink otherwise, rise unevenly, and bake an inferior product simply because you did not account for the most important ingredients of the process, time, and patience. I have provided several types of puff pastry recipes in the following section, some of which are the sweet puff pastry, a one-day process and the Galette Des Rois pastry, a four-day process. It is often compared to making panettone in its complexity. The following pages contain products for all training levels and tastes. Find one that suits you best. I include recipes with bakers% so you can adjust quantities and formulate recipes that work for your production and customers. Page | 167

27. Sweet Puff Paste Palmiers 3-4-4 / 4 – 129 Layers ➢ The 3 lock-in

1st stage of the process − 3 layers

➢ First 4-fold

3 × 4 layers = 12 layers − 3 = 9 layers

➢ Second 4-fold

9 × 4 layers = 36 layers −3 = 33 layers

➢ Resting phase /.

Wrap in plastic, and place in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ for 30 − 40 minutes

➢ Third 4-fold

33 × 4 layers = 132 layers − 3 = 129 layers.

Puff paste is not as time-consuming as it is made out to be when made with butter. It is a delightful product that has many amazing possibilities. Using the folding numerical sequences detailed earlier, puff paste may be produced swiftly and efficiently. The dough should ideally be mixed the day before and stored overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ − 4 °C. The dough is then removed from the refrigerator, and the butter block is placed over the dough's centre. The pastry is then folded into a 3 lock-in. The pastry is then sheeted, and a 4-fold is given. The pastry is then given another 4 -fold, and at this stage, the block of pastry should be placed in the freezer wrapped in plastic for a half-hour or placed between two ice blankets for 20 minutes. The butter puff paste is now at the halfway stage. After resting in the freezer, the pastry can be sheeted once more and given its final 4-fold. The pastry should then be placed in the freezer or between ice blankets for a further 45 minutes and can be processed or frozen. Suppose the pastry is to be processed at this stage. In that case, the pastry should rest for 1 hour before baking to prevent shrinkage or overnight in a refrigerator after sheeting and cutting. You can make all sorts of varieties from this base pastry recipe.

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Process Detail Sweet Puff Pastry 3-4-4 / 4 -129 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature Process Method 3-4-4/4 Chill Layers Formed Mixing Times Dough Consistency When Mixed Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill and rest 3rd Folding Chill Sheeting and cutting Eggwash Baking Cooling

Cold, use chilled liquids to make up. This pastry can be made and processed in one day Lock-in 3; 4-fold; 4-fold; rest 1 hour in refrigerator 3℃; 4 fold For at least one hour before the final sheeting 129 layers KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development 2630 g None 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 4 fold Sheet to 5 mm; 4-fold Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4-fold 60 minutes at 3 ℃ Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4-fold For one hour in a refrigerator or overnight Sheet to 3.5 mm and process the pastry as described in the following pages Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 180 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 to 22 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Palmiers Palmiers are made from a sweet puff pastry recipe. They are a personal favourite, which brings back childhood memories every time I eat them. When the puff pastry is made, copious quantities of sugar should be shaken over the work surface and applied to the pastry following the sheeting of the third 4-fold. The sugar should also be gently squeezed into the pastry at this stage using light pressure from a rolling pin or on a sheeter. The pastry should be folded one final time and sheeted once more to 4 mm thick, covered with copious quantities of sugar, which should be rolled into the pastry. The pastry can rest for one more hour in a refrigerator before its final sheeting. Puff paste with added sugar should be managed carefully and sheeted out to a 3.5 cm − 4 cm thickness. More sugar is applied over all the pastry and gently rolled into the pastry surfaces using a rolling pin before shaping it into palmiers.

The pastry sheet is folded from the top and bottom of the rectangle one-quarter into the pastry sheet. Both quarters are then folded into the sheet's centre, allowing space for the final fold over. The top is again sprinkled with sugar and folded over once more to meet the pastry's bottom.

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The cross-section of the pastry will have 6 layers or pleats of pastry for making the perfect palmier. The pastry should be wrapped tightly in parchment paper and chilled for half an hour in the freezer – 18 ℃before cutting. The palmiers should be cut into fingers 2.5 cm wide and placed cut edge facing upwards on trays allowing ample room for the pastry to expand during baking. The palmiers are baked in a rack or deck oven at a temperature of 190 ℃−200 °C for 20 minutes. Bake until a golden colour is achieved. You may need to flip them over at 3/4 bake to caramelize the sugars on the top side. Following baking, the pastry should be allowed to cool slightly on the tray and removed to a wire rack to prevent the pastry from becoming soggy. They can be sold individually, sandwiched with cream, or sealed into plastic bags to prevent them from absorbing moisture from the air. I have also added a video to my YouTube channel to follow how to fold, form and cut the Butterfly Palmiers featured in the photo on the previous pages. Follow this link below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqMIMygTaEM.

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28. Apple Turnovers

Apple turnovers were a childhood favourite of mine and are popular in Ireland. If leftover one day, they can be split in two, filled with whipped fresh cream and dusted with a copious quantity of icing sugar. In later years, when I was a bakery student at the DIT Kevin Street, they sold apple turnovers with fresh cream in the canteen. They were always magic. You will need to make recipe #27 sweet puff pastry and an oval cutter for apple turnovers 10 cm wide × 18.5 cm high. You will also need to prepare the apple compote from the recipe below. Note that the weight of the apples is the peeled cored weight. You will need 2 kg of apples for 1 mix as you will lose roughly 400 g in peel and cores. You can also make a jam variety by replacing the apple filling with raspberry jam.

29. Apple Compote

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Process Detail Apple Compote Filling - 24 pieces

Apples Peel and core, submerge the chopped apples in water with lemon juice to prevent oxidation of the apples Chop into Fine Cubes Chop into tiny cubes, “Bruonise” style, and immerse in lemon water before cooking Cook Drain the apples and place them in a saucepan and cook to reduce, then drain any excess juices from the apples. Other Ingredients Add the butter, sugar, cloves, and vanilla. Lower the heat to a simmer and simmer to clear the liquids from the apple compote. Division and Blending Take half the mix and blend it with a hand blender. It will resemble apple sauce with no lumps. Then add the second half of the apples to the smooth apple sauce. Chill Place in a sterilized container, cover and refrigerate before use.

Process Method Apple Turnovers 24 pieces

Recipe Use the sweet puff pastry recipe #27; the yield is approximately 24 pieces Sheeting and cutting Sheet to 2.5 mm and process the pastry into oval pieces 10 cm wide × 18.5 cm high (there is a standard cutter available) Add the filling Add 50 g of filling to each, brush the lips of the pastry with eggwash and seal. Chill Seal the ovals and place them upside down on trays. Cover and chill at 3 ℃ overnight. Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries, allow them to dry and repeat. Score the tops with a toothpick or blunt knife Baking Fan oven 175 ℃ for 25 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 30 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack. Additional filling To finish, use a medium round steel pastry nozzle and pipe in the remaining apple compote (25 g to 30 g). Serve warm.

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30. Savoury Puff Paste 3-4-4 / 4 – 129 Layers

This recipe makes good pastry for savoury products, including sausage rolls. I have included it as a cheaper option to the extra flaky pastry recipe #38, which is a premium and expensive pastry due to the copious quantities of butter and egg in the recipe. The hydration comparison is interesting when compared to the extra flaky puff paste. The larger quantity of butter in the extra flaky recipe lowers the hydration, making the pastry very crispy. Page | 174

Process Detail Savoury Puff Pastry 3-4-4 / 4 – 129 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-4/4 Chill Layers Formed Mixing Times Dough Consistency When Mixed Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill and rest 3rd Folding Chill Sheeting and cutting Eggwash Baking Cooling

Cold, use chilled liquids to make up. This pastry can be made and processed in one day, or when it is made, it can be stored overnight in a block and processed the following day. Lock-in 3; 4-fold; 4-fold; rest 1 hour in refrigerator 3 ℃; 4 fold For at least one hour before the final sheeting 129 layers KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development 2683 g None 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 4 fold Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet to 5mm; 4 fold; Book fold; Full fold 60 minutes at 3 ℃ Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold For one hour in a refrigerator or overnight Sheet to 3 mm and process the pastry Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 180 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 to 22 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

The dough can be made on a same-day process, but it should ideally be mixed the day before and stored overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ to 4 °C. The chilled dough should be removed from the refrigerator, and the butter block should be placed over the centre of the dough. Fold the dough into a 3 lock-in. The pastry is then sheeted to 4 mm, and a further 4-fold is given. The pastry is then sheeted once more and given another 4-fold. At this stage, the pastry block should be placed in the freezer wrapped in plastic for a half-hour or placed between two ice blankets for 20 minutes. The butter puff paste requires one last fold to complete the lamination sequence. After resting in the freezer to chill, hold for 30 minutes in a refrigerator at 3 ℃. The block of dough can be given a final 4-fold. The dough should then be placed in the freezer or between ice blankets for a further 40 minutes and can be processed or frozen. If the pastry is to be processed at this stage, the pastry should be sheeted, cut, and rested for 1 hour before baking to prevent pastry shrinkage. The cut units can also be left overnight in a refrigerator and baked off the following day.

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31. Sausage Rolls Made with Savoury Puff Pastry 3-4-4 / 4 - 129 layers

I used 1/2 of a mix recipe #30 to make 8 large or 16 small sausage rolls with 500 g of sausage meat, roughly 62 g per pastry. I sheeted the pastry to 3.5 mm, 29 cm high and 60 cm long. Fold the top half down and mark the centre 14 cm. Cut in half so you have two rectangles of pastry. Pipe the sausage meat into the strip of pastry. Eggwash the bottom lip and seal the sausage meat inside. Rest for one hour and bake at 200 ℃ for 25 to 30 minutes.

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Process Method Sausage Rolls 3-4-4 / 4 129 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature Cold,1/2 mix: use chilled liquids to make up. This pastry can be made and processed in one day, or when it is made, it can be stored overnight in a block and processed the following day. Process Method 3-4-4/4 Lock-in 3; 4-fold; 4-fold; rest 1 hour in refrigerator 3 ℃; 4 fold Chill For at least one hour before the final sheeting Layers Formed 129 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1/2 Mix) 1342 g Fermentation Time None Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Sheet gradually to 5 mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold 2nd Folding Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold Chill and rest 60 minutes at 3 ℃ 3rd Folding Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold Chill For one hour in a refrigerator or overnight Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm and 290 mm high × 600 mm long. Fold the top half down and mark the centre 14 cm. Cut in half. Cutting Pipe in the sausage meat, fold over and seal with eggwash. Then, cut the pastries 15 cm long for the large ones. Score the tops with a sharp blade. Eggwash, cover and rest in a refrigerator at 3 ℃. Resting Rest for at least one hour before baking Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries once more and bake Baking Fan oven 180 ℃ for 20 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 25 to 30 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Serve Serve warm

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32. Veggie Rolls with Savoury Puff Paste 3-4-4 /4 – 129 Layers

Note: When the veggie roll mix is made, chill it, covered in a refrigerator, before use. I make it up the day before and use it the following day. You can make delicious vegetarian rolls using the recipe above, and piping the mixture onto the pastry, just like making sausage rolls. 1 mix will yield sufficient filling for approximately 12 large pastries. The half mix will make 6. Page | 178

Process Detail Veggie Rolls 3-4-4/4 – 129 layers

Recipe Use the 1/2 mix recipe for savoury puff pastry recipe #30, as for sausage rolls Veggie roll mix Prepare the veggie mix the day before use and store it in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Desired Dough Temperature Cold, use chilled liquids to make up. This pastry can be made and processed in one day, or when it is made, it can be stored overnight in a block and processed the following day. Process Method 3-4-4/4 Lock-in 3 Chill For at least one hour before the final sheeting Layers Formed 129 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1/2 Mix) 1342 g Fermentation Time None Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Sheet gradually to 5 mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold 2nd Folding Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold Chill and rest 60 minutes at 3 ℃ 3rd Folding Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet to 5 mm; 4 fold Chill For one hour in a refrigerator or overnight Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm and 290 mm high × 600 mm long. Fold the top half down and mark the centre 14 cm. Cut in half. Cutting Pipe in the veggie roll, fold over and seal with eggwash. Then cut the pastries 15 cm long for the large ones and 7 cm for the bite-sized ones. Score the tops with a sharp blade with a crisscross pattern. Eggwash, cover and rest in a refrigerator 3℃. Resting Rest for at least one hour before baking Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries once more and bake Baking Fan oven 180℃ for 20 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 25 to30 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Serve Serve warm

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Inverse Puff Pastry Preparations Preparing to make Galette Des Rois 3-4-4-3 – 97 Layers You will need several components before you begin making this wonderful pastry. Get organised, purchase all ingredients, weigh everything, and be prepared. The process can take from 3 to 4 days from start to finish. Resting times are long and important. You will need the following five elements to make Galette Des Rois: ➢ Inverse puff pastry ➢ Frangipane filling ➢ Crème pâtissière ➢ Sugar glaze ➢ Patience and time The term “Inverse Pastry” simply means that the roles of butter and dough are reversed in the lock-in process. The dough is encapsulated between layers of butter before lamination at the lock-in stage. Generally, a 5-lock-in can be used, but you can also do a 3-lock-in by dividing the butter into 2 pieces of 625 g each and making 2 butter blocks. These pieces are then sheeted separately, and the dough is placed in the centre to form 3 layers. A lot more butter must be added to the recipe, especially if making inverse croissant pastry, so there will be enough to encapsulate the dough entirely in the centre. Ensure butter temperature is never greater than 16 ℃ when processing, then chill overnight at 3 ℃. If using hard, dry butter, it is possible to make the pastry without adding flour to the butter. But up to 1/4 of the lamination butter weight in flour is added for easier handling. The dosage is 250 g of flour per 1 kg of butter. Cut the floured butter into cubes and place it in a mixer with the cake beater attachment. Add the flour and mix slowly to blend so no flour is visible. Then make your butter blocks from it. Chill the butter for 24 hours. Generally, I pin the floured butter to 5 mm to cover the dough effectively. Butter should be allowed to stand outside the refrigerator until it reaches a temperature of 12 ℃ before lamination. Make the dough and the lamination butter on day 1, then prepare the almond cream and the crème pâtissière filling on day 2. Prepare the yolk eggwash and the glaze for the pastries for day 3 when baking them off. You will also need cake boards, a wide palette knife, icing sugar, and boxes to put your creations in after baking them. The pastry itself is very delicate and easy to damage. You must take great care when handling it; otherwise, you will damage it.

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33. Galette Des Rois Inverse Puff Paste 3 / 4 / 4 / 3 – 97 layers

The inverse pastry tends to be much shorter and crispy than pastry made in traditional methods. It is also extensively used to make the exceedingly popular Kings Cakes to celebrate the epiphany on the 6th of January or Twelfth Night. The epiphany historically marks the arrival of the three wise men/kings in Bethlehem. They delivered the famous gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh to baby Jesus twelve days after his birth. A “Fève” or gift is hidden inside the king's cake and in Ancient Rome, the fève used was a dried bean. A sun-shaped cake was shared among the people to celebrate the winter solstice. Slaves lucky enough to find a dried bean in their piece became kings for the day. Scale and prepare the dough and the lamination butter on day 1. Note: 1 mix size will give you 4 × 24 cm pastries, while a 1/2 mix will yield 2. Page | 181

Use the recipe below for 1.5 mixes of crème pâtissière as you will need 500 g for each, to make 4 patties of frangipane. Prepare the crème pâtissière filling recipe in advance; you will need to add the cooled pastry cream to the frangipane mix.

34. Crème Pâtissière for Frangipane Filling

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Boil stage 1, whisk stage 2 together to form a paste, and add off the heat to the boiling stage 1. Return to heat, whisking until the mix thickens. Add the butter, remove from the heat, and whisk to form an emulsified mixture. Spread on a tray lined with cling film or Silpat mat and chill.

35. Frangipane for Galette Des Rois

Process Detail Frangipane Filling for 4 × 20 cm Patties Recipe Use the 1 mix recipe #35 for 4 × 570 g patties of frangipane Add ingredients to a mixing bowl Add all dry ingredients to the mixing bowl, hold back the rum, almond essence, egg, and the crème pâtissière Cream Using a cake beater/spade attachment, cream to emulsify all ingredients until it becomes light and fluffy Egg addition Stream in the egg slowly, taking care not to curdle the mix Rum and essence Mix the rum and the almond essence, add, and beat into the mixture to incorporate it fully Crème pâtissière Add the crème pâtissière and beat on medium speed to fully incorporate Piping bag Transfer the mix to a piping bag with a large round piping nozzle size 15 (1.5 cm) 21 cm rings Pipe the Frangipane into 21 cm parchment lined rings, 2.5 cm high; fill and level with a large palette knife. Freeze until hard, preferably overnight at −18 ℃. Unmould Take the frangipane from the metal rings and place it on the moistened pastry for sealing and trimming.

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36. Sugar Glaze for Galette Pastry

Bring all ingredients to a boil in a small saucepan, cool and cover until required. Or you can cook it in a microwave oven using a suitable glass bowl or jug. Heat to 110 ℃, cover, cool and store in the refrigerator until required. Now that you have everything ready, let's make the pastry. You will need to allow 3 to 4 days from start to finish to complete this product, as many stages are overnight/a minimum of 12 hours rest between steps. You can also make some raspberry jellies to top the centre of the baked tart. Use recipe # 77 and dust with raspberry or strawberry powder to intensify the colour. Process Detail for 4 - 23 cm Galette Des Rois 3 / 4 / 4 /-3 Recipe Desired dough temperature Process method 3 / 4 / 4 /-3 Chill Layers formed Day #1 mixing times

Dough Consistency when mixed Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) Resting, Sheeting and Chilling

Prepare 2 butter blocks and dough

Day #2

Lock-in number Lock-in 3 assembly

1st sheeting; sheet to 7 mm

Use the 1 mix recipe #34 for inverse puff pastry. Use chilled egg yolks and water Lock-in 3; 4-fold; rest; 4-fold; rest; 3-fold; 3℃; 4 fold As per directions between each stage 97 layers KitchenAid 5 minutes on slow; 8 to 10 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 5 minutes on 1st speed/ 6 to 7 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development 2834g Sheet the mixed dough into a rectangle, 10 mm thick, 380 mm long and 220 mm high. Wrap in a plastic sheet and chill the dough for 24 hours in the refrigerator at 3℃ Prepare 1 sheet of dough 10 mm thick: and 2 sheets of floured butter. Divide the floured lamination butter into two pieces of 625 g each and sheet each to form 2 butter blocks 5 mm thick, 380 mm long and 220 mm high. Wrap in plastic; leave in the refrigerator overnight at 3 ℃. 3 Form a sandwich by placing the dough rectangle between the two butter blocks. Dough and butter blocks should both be the same size. The pastry block should be 20 mm in thickness. Reduce the pastry block from 20 mm slowly in units of 5 mm to 7 mm. The pastry should be 7 mm thick, 1160 mm long ×

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250 mm high, but may spread slightly. Dimensions are a guide only. 1st, Folding and chilling Sheet gradually to 15 mm

2nd sheeting to 6 mm and folding

Chill and rest 3rd Folding

Chill and rest Day #3

sheeting

Frangipane insertion

Mark a circle Eggwash

Scoring

Resting and refrigeration Day #4

Baking Syrup Cooling Finishing

4 fold; compress the pastry rectangle on the sheeter. Sheet to 15 mm; chill in the refrigerator for 6 hours at 3 ℃. The pastry block should measure approximately 330 mm × 290 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm. Sheet to 6 mm; 4 fold. The pastry should measure approximately 900 mm long × 360 mm high Wrap in a plastic sheet and rest for 6 hours at 3 ℃ in a refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm to 6 mm; The pastry block should now measure 930 mm long × 290 mm high Wrap in a plastic sheet; chill for 12 hours in a refrigerator or overnight Sheet carefully and gradually to 2.5 mm thick and roughly 290 mm high × 2320 mm long. Cut into 8 squares 290 mm × 290 mm. Cover the squares in plastic and chill without stacking them on each other for 4 hours in the refrigerator at 3 ℃. Remove from the refrigerator and spray with water Do one at a time, not altogether. You will have a top and bottom piece of pastry. Spray or lightly brush the bottom piece of pastry with water. Place the frozen 20 cm frangipane in the centre of the moistened pastry square and place the other half of the pastry over the frangipane. Carefully rub the pastry to expel all the air, prod at the base with a toothpick or small knife to eliminate all the air bubbles and return the pastry to the freezer at −18 ℃for 20 to 30 minutes Mark an exact circle on the pastry using a 23 cm ring. Ensure it is centred, and then cut out the circle with a sharp knife Turn over the pastry so the base becomes the top, and using egg yolk eggwash, wash the pastry and return the pastry to the refrigerator at 3 ℃ for 3 hours. Eggwash once more after three hours and prepare to score the pastry When carving, I insert a toothpick in the centre and use this as a reference for my paring knife. Using a small knife, score the pastry carefully and use even pressure throughout the scoring process. Return the pastry to the refrigerator at 3 ℃ for 12 hours or overnight so the pastry is fully relaxed. Fan oven 170 ℃ for 35 minutes; deck oven 180 ℃ for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven briefly and brush with syrup. Brush with Galette sugar syrup recipe #36, then return to the oven for 5 minutes to set the glaze. Remove from tray carefully. Cool on wire racks, When cool, mask the centre and dust the edge with Icing sugar. Decorate with raspberry jelly recipe #76.

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37. Blitz or Quick Puff Pastry Recipe 3-3 / 3-3 /3

Mix the dough until the flour is no longer visible. Add cold lamination butter cut into 2 cm cubes. Mix slowly with the dough hook until the butter is slightly incorporated and visible in the dough. Use the 3-3 / 3-3 / 3 system to laminate and form layers. If you need pastry in a hurry, you can use this recipe to expedite the production of this “rough puff, " also called the scotch method. Page | 186

38. Extra Flaky Puff Paste 3-3-3 / 3-3 - 163 Layers

Mix all ingredients in a bowl except the unsalted butter. Ensure that the butter is at room temperature. Using the hook attachment, mix Stage 1 on a dough mixer for 4 minutes on slow speed and 3 minutes on 2nd speed, adding the butter when the dough comes together. Mix to clear. Pin out the dough to 12 mm, cover it with plastic, and store it in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Prepare the butter block in a rectangular shape and store it in the refrigerator until the dough is ready to laminate. Begin with a 3 lock-in. The Lamination sequences are split into two resting stages indicated after the third 3-fold in the sequence by a separator or /. ➢ The rolling sequence for this type of puff paste is a 3-3-3 / 3-3- sequence. ➢ First, 3-fold the lock-in - 3 layers ➢ Second 3-fold 3 x 3 layers = 9 layers – 2 = 7 layers ➢ Third 3-fold 7 x 3 layers = 21 layers – 2 = 19 layers Resting the dough for at least half an hour in a refrigerator before giving it the remaining two folds is important. ➢ Fourth 3-fold 19 × 3 layers = 57 layers−2 = 55 layers. ➢ Fifth 3-fold 55 × 3 layers = 165 layers−2 =163 layers. ➢ Chill in the refrigerator for 45 − 60 minutes ➢ Sheet to 3.5 mm to make quiche, sausage roll and various assorted goods.

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39. Quiche Gruyere Cheese and Onion with Puff Pastry 3-3-3 / 3-3 This recipe makes, hands down, the best puff pastry I have ever eaten. Light, crispy and melts in the mouth, this pastry is perfect for those luxury puff pastry goodies you want to make. It is versatile and can be used for both sweet and savoury goods. Try Vol au Vents with chicken and mushroom, sausage rolls to die for and, of course, the quiche featured here or with other fillings of your choice. It will not disappoint. Recently. I made Christmas mince pies with this recipe, which did not disappoint. I make a beautiful quiche filling with 270 g double cream, 230 g milk, 175 g egg, 10 g salt and 2 g pepper. This base is rich and creamy, and vegetarian and meat accompaniments are fantastic with this pastry recipe. It melts in your mouth, leaving you seeking another, as the rich flavour stays on your palate for too long! Patience is key with this pastry. The dough is made on day one, and the lamination, and the baking, the following day. The pastry is very flaky, a joy to eat. The cheese and onion quiche filling are white onion 300 g, red onion 300 g, butter 50 g, balsamic vinegar 50 g, salt 2.5 g, and black pepper 1.5 g fry together and reduce in a frying pan. Allow the fillings to cool. Line a 32 cm quiche dish with puff paste. Add the cooled, fried onion and spread over the base. Pour the quiche base mix into a quiche dish, and fill to four-fifths full, taking care not to overfill the quiche cases, or it will spill out during baking. Then, carefully sprinkle 60 g to 80 g of grated Gruyere cheese or similar on the top and bake for 45 minutes at 180 ℃. You can also use many other types of fillings. Peppers/broccoli/courgettes/mushrooms/tomato/bacon/ham or any different fillings you like in the quiche. Try both large and mini quiches and experiment with your favourite fillings. Equally, the pastry can make delicious bases and even Portuguese custard tarts. These are covered later in this book with an original recipe from a dear friend.

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40. Mince Pies 3-3-3 / 3-3 The origins of the mince pie date back to England in the 13th century. Dried fruits and recipes from Middle Eastern crusaders returning home brought recipe ideas and dried fruits to prepare the mince. Mincemeat was also made following the harvest feast. The scraping of mutton and beef suet from bones was placed in this high sugar and spice recipe to preserve the meat for Christmas. Today, no meat is used in commercial products. Instead, beef or vegetarian suet choices are used in the recipes with various alcohols and spices to appeal to many consumers, including vegetarians. When made, the mix can be stored in sterile glass jars and has almost two years of shelf life. The recipe below is ideal for Christmas baking and best made one to two weeks in advance to allow the mince to marinate in a refrigerator before use. Follow Jimmy making butter puff pastry mince pies on his YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJN_Qbf9ZNM&t=23s

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Process Detail Mince Pies 3-3-3 / 3-3

Recipe Use puff pastry recipe #38 for approximately 30 pieces Desired Dough Temperature Cold, use chilled liquids to make up This pastry can be made and processed in one day, or when the pastry is made, it can be stored overnight in a block and processed the following day. Process Method 3-3-3 /3 3 Lock-in 3; and 4 × 3 folds with a rest after the first two 3folds. I have included a / to alert the need to rest the pastry before continuing the process. When rested, followed by two further 3-folds Sheeting Sheet to 3 mm thick and cut using a 10 cm petal cutter. Cut all the pastry, then using the cuttings, re-roll the pastry to use it up and use the cuttings that have been sheeted for the bases of the mince pies, pin the cuttings to 3.5 mm thick Cutting and filling The pastry bases' edges should be eggwashed to help the lids stick and keep the filling on the inside. Pipe the filling using a no 5 plain piping tube. Seal and set aside in the refrigerator Resting Rest for at least one hour before baking Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries and bake Baking Fan oven 175 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 to 22 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Dusting Mask the centre and dust with icing sugar Serve Serve warm with sweet, whipped cream

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Section 4 – Pain Raisin and Cinnamon Swirls

41. Pain Aux Raisins 3-4-3 A 1/2 mix will make approximately 16 − 18 units using the pastry recipe on the next page. Use the crème pâtissière recipe #71. Golden raisins are wonderful in this product and should be washed the day before use. Additionally, they can be soaked with a little rum for added flavour. Weigh all your ingredients and place them into the mixing bowl (except the lamination butter). Shape your butter into a rectangular block and place it in the refrigerator. Using the dough hook with an electric mixer, mix slowly for about 2 minutes or until the dough combines, then mix on 2nd speed until smooth (roughly 6 minutes). Roll the dough into a rectangular shape, place it into a plastic bag on a baking tray, and then place it in the refrigerator overnight.

Remove

the croissant dough from the refrigerator and roll it out in a rectangle until it is twice the size of the butter block. Make a Lock-in 3. Slice the closed dough edges (sandwich method) to release the elastic recoil.

Rotate

the

dough

90°,

then

sheet to 4 mm and make a 4-fold (approximately four times longer than when you first placed the butter in). Place the pastry back in the refrigerator until cold (20−30 minutes). Cut the closed edges to ease the elastic recoil and sheet to 5 mm; make a 3-fold, and rest in the refrigerator for up to 60 minutes at 3 ℃. For Page | 191

the sheeting stage, sheet the pastry to 5 mm thick to a rectangle (45 cm width). Spread crème pâtissière evenly, leaving a good 2 cm strip of the pastry free from crème pâtissière at the base. Sprinkle raisins all over, then start rolling firmly like a Swiss roll, but not too tight from top to bottom. Roll towards yourself. It is easier! Mark and cut the roll into slices (2 − 3 cm thick) using a sharp serrated tooth knife. You can also chill the pastry in a freezer for a half hour; it makes them easier to cut. When cut, tuck the ends to prevent them from opening in the proof stage, then place them on the baking trays using baking paper and place them in the proofer.

Proof time can vary, taking up to 2.5 hours at 26 ℃ with 75% relative humidity. Remove the trays from the proofer, and eggwash gently all over. Place trays in a preheated oven (210 °C for a deck oven, 175 °C for a fan oven) until you get a lovely golden-brown crust. Bake to a golden-brown colour for 15 − 18 minutes, depending on product size. When cool, brush with boiled apricot jam to finish, drizzle with warm fondant or water icing. You can also garnish with a half glacé cherry. They can be proofed and baked in silicone moulds or steel rings for consistent results and shape. I have also baked them in indented trays, such as hamburger bun trays. The indented shape gives them a superb shape. To finish, brush with boiled apricot jam and drizzle with white fondant. You can also garnish with a red half-glace cherry.

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Process Detail Pain aux Raisins 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 2243 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold; Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 5 mm thick / Approximate sheet size 1 mix should be 40 cm high × 130 cm long and half that for the smaller quantity Custard addition Spread 500 g crème pâtissière over the sheet with a palette knife, keeping a 2 cm strip at the end free of the crème pâtissière. Moisten this strip with water to seal the coil Raisins and roll up Sprinkle 300 g of prewashed raisins over the crème pâtissière and roll up to seal the pastry. It will be like a large Swiss roll Cutting Cut into 4 cm circles, tuck the bottom seams underneath the pastry Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Finishing Brush with boiled Apricot jam and drizzle with white fondant

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42. Cinnamon Swirls 3-4-3

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Process Detail Cinnamon Swirls 3-4-3 Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-3 Layers Formed Mixing Times Dough Consistency When Mixed Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5 mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheeting Custard addition

Cinnamon Sugar and roll up Cutting Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold 25 layers KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development 2243 g 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 45 minutes at 3℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 3 fold 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet to 5mm; Approximate sheet size 1 mix should be 40 cm high × 130 cm long and half that for the smaller quantity Spread 500 g of custard over the sheet with a palette knife, keeping a 2cm strip at the end free of custard. Moisten this strip with water to seal the coil Sprinkle the cinnamon sugar over the custard and roll it up to seal the pastry. It will be like a large Swiss roll Cut into 4cm circles Place on a baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries; sprinkle with nibbed sugar Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

Cinnamon swirls are a delicious alternative for those who do not like raisins or other dried fruits. They are made up the same way as pain aux raisins. Use 1/2 recipe #42 for the pastry. The crème pâtissière recipe #71 is mixed with cinnamon sugar recipe #42 to make the cinnamon custard. The cinnamon custard is spread on the pastry, allowing a good 2 cm of the pastry free of cinnamon custard at the base, so it can be sealed. Moisten this piece of the pastry by brushing with a damp pastry brush; then, start rolling the pastry towards you like a Swiss roll (not too tight) from top to base. For extra crunchiness, nibbed or crushed sugar can be added just before baking. This way, the sugar remains crispy and crunchy and doesn’t dissolve as it would if left standing for some time before baking. The Cinnamon sugar recipe is at the bottom of the Cinnamon Swirls recipe#42.

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Section 5 Experimental Gluten Free

This section includes my experimental recipe for making gluten-free laminated croissant pastry. I have worked on this recipe for over two years, and the work has been painstaking, tedious and sometimes without reward. It is important to keep the dough cold between folds, and I will abbreviate the laminating notation with rest periods between all lamination processes. I use a traditional 3-3-3-3 folding sequence, but the importance of dough chilling between lamination cannot be overstated. I use ice blankets to chill my pastry down, but I recommend 20-minute spells in the freezer to completely cool the dough, keeping it stiff and homogenous. I will post a video on my YouTube channel showing the detail of the process and how to control the pastry, which differs greatly from the normal laminated pastry process. The dough exhibits a lot of plasticity and not so much elasticity, so care and attention to process are vital to the outcome of the finished pastry. Important note: Gluten-Free products require a separate production area, tins, trays, sheeters, proofers, ovens etc. for the products to be guaranteed fully gluten-free. In the EU, where I work, there is extremely strict legislation covering the production and sale of Gluten Free products commercially. The risk of cross-contamination is big unless production areas are separated completely. If you are making these for home consumption, you already are aware of and have a gluten-free kitchen. Suppose you are a business and have a certified GF production facility. In that case, you can make these without risking making the end consumer ill if they are celiac. Never mix equipment or production facilities when making GF and normal flour products. You could crosscontaminate and make a celiac really ill.

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I have blended and experimented with various flours for the past two years to make my glutenfree flour suitable for making laminated pastry. I have formulated the above recipe to weigh 1000g. You will need a fine sieve to blend all the ingredients. I recommend sifting at least three times together to blend effectively. You must also add additional ingredients to make the laminated pastry from this base mix. These ingredients must be sifted into the base flour mix three times to ensure they have blended correctly. I mix the GF pastry dough on a KitchenAid on 2nd speed with the paddle/beater for five minutes. Don’t use a dough hook, as it doesn’t mix effectively. I use ground psyllium husks. If you want to use powdered psyllium husk, you need to reduce the quantity of psyllium to 85% of the coarse amount required in your recipe. The finer powdered psyllium has a greater surface area than the coarser variety. As a result, it will bind more water to it if used in the same quantities. I recommend blending the psyllium husks in a coffee grinder for 60 seconds if you require a whiter pastry. The husk will turn to a fine powder, and the appearance of the typical brown specks in the pastry will be reduced by grinding it down fine. If you want a white result with your dough, there is a blonde variety of psyllium husk, giving the dough the whitest colour. You will see in the pastry recipe that I make a gel soak using psyllium husk and water. Psyllium husk is a hydrocolloid, meaning it binds water and significantly increases the viscosity of a liquid it is added to, forming a glue-like gel. The psyllium gel binds the other ingredients, giving the pastry dough an extensible and elastic feel. Additionally, it acts as a humectant, binding liquid to it. This helps delay staling and keeps the baked products moist. The gel is made in advance and allowed to soak for 10 minutes together before mixing the other ingredients to form the gluten-free pastry dough. The gelling process provides full hydration of the gel and gives an elasticated feel to the dough. Finally, during the last sheeting process, as you prepare the pastry for cutting and shaping, I recommend sheeting the pastry to a thickness of 4 5 mm thick. I have made them 5mm thick, but they tend to be quite heavy. The pastry in the proofer should double in size in 2 hours. Don’t forget, never proof above 28 ℃ or the butter will melt, and your hard work will be all wasted. Baking may take a little longer, so I suggest using an eggwash that has been diluted with milk to slow down the browning effect in the oven. I showcased this production method for gluten-free pastry for the first time during classes in Singapore in 2023 at the Creative Culinaire Academy with Judy Koh.

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43. Gluten-Free Flour Recipe

Weigh all the ingredients together using digital scales. Sieve the ingredients together four times to ensure that the ingredients are thoroughly mixed. This will ensure all components are blended correctly and balanced in the Gluten free flour mix. Then transfer the flour to a container or plastic bag and seal it to prevent the mixture from absorbing moisture from the atmosphere. I have made croissants, chocolatine, pain aux raisins, and many other gluten-free goodies from this base gluten-free flour mix. You can use many of the fillings and toppings in the book to create unique gluten-free products. Push your creativity and make your gluten-free baking exciting and unique. The dough handles well, and don’t forget to use gluten-free flour to dust the pastries as you do the lamination sequences. In my baking trials over the years, I have found that baking in perforated silicone forms helps to support the pastry and gives them a better shape. The lack of gluten in the pastry means that the pastry tends to flow slightly. Placing the pastry in forms aids the volume and finished look of the pastry. Deck ovens also tend to give a better bake than fan ovens. Fan ovens tend to dry the pastry surface swiftly, and the gentle heat of a deck oven suits the baking of gluten-free pastry best.

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44. Gluten-Free Croissant Recipe 3-4 / 4 -33 layers

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Process Detail Gluten Free Croissant 3-4 /4 / - 33 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is a same-day fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 60 minutes, flattened and chilled. Sieve all dry ingredients Process Method 3-4 / 4 Lock-in 3 plus 2 × 4-folds Layers Formed 33 layers Gel Stage Mix the water and yeast, then the egg and psyllium husk, and allow to hydrate for 20 minutes Mixing Times Add the soaked gel to the rest of the ingredients. Use a cake beater attachment to blend the dough on 1st speed. Then mix for 5 minutes at medium speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm. Take 20% of the mixed dough for a top layer, as in Bicolor production, 168 g dough for the top layer applied after lamination is completed. Roll this part to 3 mm and chill Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1079 g Fermentation Time 60 minutes bulk; then degas place in refrigerator at 3 ℃ Chill for 30 minutes. Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 7 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 -fold, trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 4 -fold; trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding Chill 20 – minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet gradually to 7 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm Sheet pastry 4.5 mm thick; to approximately 30 cm high and 56 cm wide Cutting and Shaping Trim all the edges. Cut rectangles 29 cm high and 9 cm wide, then cut across the diagonal (see example in the diagram. below). Fold the base over, don’t roll tight, or you will crush the layers, and the honeycomb will be lost. Yield will be 12 pieces from 1 mix Proofing and Eggwash Proof at 27 ℃ for 2 to 3 hours and eggwash Chill Place the croissants in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ for 20 − 30 minutes Bake 170 ℃ in a fan oven for 25 − 30 minutes or 190 ℃ for 30 − 35 minutes in a deck oven

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45. Gluten-Free Pain au Chocolate 3-4 / 3 / 3 - 73 layers

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Process Detail Chocolatine 3-4-4 - 33 layers

Recipe Detail Use the GF croissant recipe #44 Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is a same-day fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 60 minutes, flattened and chilled. Sieve all dry ingredients Process Method 3-4 / 4 Lock-in 3 plus 2 × 4-folds Layers Formed 33 layers Gel Stage Mix the water and yeast, then the egg and psyllium husk, and allow to hydrate for 20 minutes Mixing Times Add the soaked gel to the rest of the ingredients. Use a cake beater attachment to blend the dough on 1st speed; then, mix for 5 minutes at medium speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm. Take 20% of the mixed dough for a top layer, as in Bicolor production, 168 g dough for the top layer applied after lamination is completed. Roll this part to 3 mm and chill Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1079 g Fermentation Time 60 minutes bulk; then degas place in refrigerator at 3 ℃ Chill for 30 minutes. Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 7 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 -fold, trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding Sheet gradually to 7 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 4 -fold; trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding Chill 20 – minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm Sheet pastry 5 mm thick; to approximately 30 cm high and 56 cm wide Cutting and Shaping Trim the edges and sides. Cut rectangles 30 cm high and 10 cm wide, then cut across the diagonal. The yield will be 12 − pieces from 1 mix. Don’t roll up. Use the fold-over method Proofing and Eggwash Proof at 27 ℃ for 2.5 – 3 hours and eggwash Chilling Place the pastry in a refrigerator for 20 − 30 minutes at 3℃ Bake 170 ℃ in a fan oven for 25 − 30 minutes or 190 ℃ for 30 − 35 minutes in a deck oven

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46. Gluten-Free Pain aux Myrtle 3-4 / 4 / - 33 layers

In his beautiful gluten-free pastry, I use my crème pâtissière recipe #71. I substitute the wheat flour in the recipe with corn flour to make the mix gluten-free. I use dried blueberries that have been washed and allowed to plump up overnight in the recipe. The formula used is the gluten-free croissant recipe #44. The lamination system 3-4 / 4 is used, and the pastry is sheeted to 5 mm thick. I also use tins to support the GF pastry when proofing and baking. The shapes I have were purchased at a show I demonstrated during a masterclass in Brazil a few years ago. They have a small indent in the bottom and are 8 cm across. The indent is perfect for filling with pastry cream after baking and holds the blueberries nicely. I brushed with apricot jam to finish and garnished with fresh blueberries, white fondant, and a sprinkling of pistachios for colour. I brought them from my bakery man cave to the house and left some in the kitchen. Later that evening, I noticed two were missing, and my beloved happily enjoyed her second one. She couldn’t believe they were gluten-free! I hope you will like them.

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Process Method Gluten Free Pain aux Myrtle 3-4 / 4 / - 33 layers

Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4 / 4 Layers Formed Gel Stage Mixing Times

Dough Consistency When Mixed

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 7 mm 1st Folding Sheet gradually to 7 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm Sheet pastry

Custard addition

Blueberries and roll up Cutting Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling Finishing

25 ℃. Use recipe #44. This is a same-day fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 60 minutes, flattened and chilled. Sieve all dry ingredients Lock-in 3 plus 2 × 4-folds 33 layers Mix the water and yeast, then the egg and psyllium husk, and allow to hydrate for 20 minutes Add the soaked gel to the rest of the ingredients. Use a cake beater attachment to blend the dough on 1st speed; then, mix for 5 minutes at medium speed. Smooth and firm. Take 20% of the mixed dough for a top layer, as in Bicolor production, 168 g dough for the top layer applied after lamination is completed. Roll this part to 3 mm and chill 1079 g 60 minutes bulk; then degas place in refrigerator at 3 ℃ Chill for 30 minutes. 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 4 -fold, trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 4 -fold; trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding 20 – minutes at 3 ℃ Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4.5 mm thick; to approximately 38 cm high and 46 cm wide. Fold the pastry sheet in 1/2 and crease to mark the central point. Using a plastic scraper, gently mark with gentle pressure (don’t cut) a line on the bottom part of the pastry sheet. Spray this edge with water. Spread 350 g custard over the lower part of the sheet with a palette knife, keeping a 2 cm strip at the end free of crème pâtissière. Moisten this strip with water to seal the coil Sprinkle 300 g of washed dried blueberries over the custard and roll up to seal the pastry. It will be like a large Swiss roll Cut into 4 cm circles Place in tins or on a baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 170 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 22 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Brush with apricot glaze, pipe pastry cream in the centre, string with white fondant icing and top with fresh blueberries and chopped pistachio pieces.

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47. Gluten-Free Cranberry Custard Coconut Twists 3-3 / 3 / 3

My final gluten-free product is the cranberry custard coconut twist. These are a variation of the yeasted ones featured in recipe #12. The pastry is sheeted thicker than the yeasted one to 5 mm thick. As before, you can make the crème pâtissière recipe #71, substituting wheat flour for cornflour or maize flour as it is called in the USA. As with all dried fruits, I suggest washing and soaking the fruit one day in advance to make the cranberries moist and plump. Additionally, washed fruit won’t absorb liquids from the surrounding pastry, so the eating quality of the pastry remains moist. After adding the cranberries, I sprinkle the custard with 100 g of desiccated coconut, then seal and cut the pastry into rectangles. After proofing, I eggwash the pastry and take advantage of its sticky surface by sprinkling more sliced or desiccated coconut over the tops before baking. Once baked, brush with apricot glaze and thread with white fondant or simple water icing.

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Process Detail Gluten Free Cranberry Custard Coconut Twists Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4 / 4 Layers Formed Gel Stage Mixing Times

Dough Consistency When Mixed

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5 mm 1st Folding Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm Sheet pastry

Crème Pâtisserie and Cranberries

Cutting Shape Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling Glazing

25 ℃. Use recipe #44. This is a same-day fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 60 minutes, flattened and chilled. The yield is 12 pieces. Lock-in 3 plus 2 × 4-folds 33 layers Mix the water and yeast, then the egg and psyllium husk, and allow to hydrate for 20 minutes Add the soaked gel to the rest of the ingredients. Use a cake beater attachment to blend the dough on 1st speed; then, mix for 5 minutes at medium speed. Smooth and firm. Take 20% of the mixed dough for a top layer, as in Bicolor production, 168 g dough for the top layer applied after lamination is completed. Roll this part to 3 mm and chill 1079 g 60 minutes bulk; then degas place in refrigerator at 3 ℃ Chill for 30 minutes. 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 4 -fold, trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 4 -fold; trim edges and incorporate in the pastry before folding 20 – minutes at 3 ℃ Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 5 mm thick; to approximately 28 cm high and 48 cm wide. Fold the pastry sheet in 1/2 and crease to mark the central point. Using a plastic scraper, gently mark with gentle pressure (don’t cut) a line on the bottom part of the pastry sheet. Spray this edge with water. Spread 350 g crème pâtisserie recipe #71 over the bottom half of the pastry, leaving 2 cm at the bottom free of the crème pâtissière to seal the pastry. Sprinkle 250 − 300g of dried cranberries over the crème pâtissière. Then sprinkle with desiccated coconut. Spray the bottom edge with water to moisten and fold the top down to seal. Gently roll the rolling pin over the pastry to seal it and embed the cranberries Then cut into rectangles 4 cm wide × 14 cm high. Slightly stretch and roll up in opposite directions, holding the seam firmly to get a twist Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries and sprinkle them with coconut Fan oven 170℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Brush with nappage or boiled apricot jam fondant drizzle

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Section 6 - Vegan Croissant Pastry

In this section, I cover two specifically vegan pastries, croissants and chocolatine. You can use any recipe in this book to make the vegan pastry. If you want to use almond milk instead of water, you can do this without compromising the pastry quality. I have included many eggwash recipes #11, some vegan. Alternatively, to wash the pastry before baking, you can simply spray it with water and brush it with sugar syrup. I have included the recipe for the sugar syrup glaze recipe #36. As I write, I have been given a new plant-based coconut butter to try from @Marylebone Group (Instagram) in Singapore. I will post the baking results on my YouTube and social media channels. Many people choose vegan for dietary reasons, and some must do so due to allergic reactions. Whatever the individual case is, there is no reason not to be able to enjoy the treat of delicious pastry. You can use the ingredients and techniques in these recipes to create other delicious pastries that suit your dietary requirements. Vegan pastries can be much blander in flavour than their cousins made with pure butter. If you are missing the buttery taste too much, add vanilla extract, or there are several butter flavours available on the market these days which are bake-stable and add butter flavour to your bakes, such as https://www.naturesflavors.com/products/butter-flavor-powder-organic I removed the butter and milk powder from the dough recipes to make this recipe. I used a product called Flora Plant Butter for the lamination process and found that it made great pastry. The flavour was, of course, lacking when compared to regular butter croissants. You can add vanilla paste or essence to the dough, improving its appeal. I also used finely grated lemon in the dough, an idea I borrowed from Italian-style cornetti. For products such as pain aux raisins requiring crème pâtisserie, use the flora plant butter and an egg replacer. I also use soya of almond milk instead of dairy milk in the recipe. While it is impossible to make the same tasting products when going vegan, making delicious pastries that suit both diet and lifestyle is possible. Just by using a bit of imaginative thinking in your pastry making. Keep me posted on your products and post them to our Art of Lamination Page with Jimmy Griffin. At the time of writing, my page has 29K followers. It is a useful resource page where you can ask specific questions from our lamination community. Find us here at this hyperlink, where you will see daily lamination posts. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1666415577044008

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48. Vegetarian/Vegan Croissant Using Flora Plant Butter

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Process Detail Vegetarian / Vegan Croissant 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3/simple fold/Letter fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1091 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5mm and approximately 30 cm high × 70 cm long. Cutting Trim the top and bottom. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 27 cm long Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Vegan/Vegetarian Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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49. Vegetarian/Vegan Chocolatine with Flora Plant Butter

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Process Detail Vegetarian /Vegan Chocolatine 3-4-4

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-4 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 4-fold Layers Formed 33 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1091 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 4 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5mm thick and a rectangle approximately 30 cm high. Cut the rectangle into two 15 cm strips Cutting Trim the top and bottom, then cut to rectangles 8.5 cm wide × 15 cm high Shape Roll up incorporating two chocolate bars, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Section 7 - Spelt, Wholemeal and Inverse

Trends in laminated pastry change and evolve according to taste, diet, preference, marketplace

and changes

demand. to

The

encompass

endless varieties and forms of pastry. During my MSc, I undertook a detailed study of laminated pastry. Specifically, I worked with spelt flour over 12 weeks, trialling different lamination sets, flours, processes, and mixing times. As spelt is high in gliadin (soluble) and low in gluten (non-soluble) proteins, I discovered that it doesn’t like an overnight process. The pastries were flattening out during proof and collapsing during baking. The fragile proteins formed in spelt faltered with time and the increasing acidity of the developing dough. So, I changed the process to make it a same-day one, and the product quality improved greatly. I have now made spelt with white, blended, and wholemeal variants of the flour and find that my favourite is the next recipe, #40, which has a blend of wholemeal and white spelt flour. However, it works fine with just white-spelt flour on its own. The flavour is unique, nutty, and earthy, but the texture resembles an all-wheat croissant pastry. Use the same recipe to make spelt croissants and follow the same-day process. Use a 3-4-3 system for lamination.

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50. 80/20 Spelt Chocolatine 3-4-4

You can also make delicious spelt croissants using the same recipe and the 3-4-3 lamination system. Just cut into the triangles 28 cm long × 9 cm wide.

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Process Detail Spelt Chocolatine 3-4-4

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is a same-day process, where you mix, laminate, and bake on the same day. The weaker gluten in spelt performs best in a one-day process. The dough needs more mixing to develop properly Process Method 3-4-4 Lock-in 3; 4- fold; 4- fold Layers Formed 33 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 10 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/8 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1153 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then flatten to a rectangle 8 mm thick and chill 1 hour in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 4 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 4 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5mm and approximately 30 cm high × 70 cm long. Cutting Trim the edges. Cut to rectangles 8 cm wide × 15 cm long Shape Roll into Chocolatine. Use two chocolate bars Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 17 0℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

Note: You can also make this recipe with all-white spelt flour.

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51. Craig’s Wholemeal Croissant

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Craig Ponsford and I met as jury members at the Coupe du Monde, Paris, in 2002. We have been friends ever since. Craig is an amazing guy and runs his fine business, Ponford’s Place in San Francisco. He is a specialist wholemeal baker and shares his delicious recipe for wholemeal croissants here. I hope you enjoy it. I have modified it slightly and adjusted the hydration in the formula to reflect the hydration of the small quantity of sourdough used. The sourdough is 10% of the flour weight.

Process Detail Craig’s Wholemeal Croissant 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-3 Layers Formed Mixing Times

25 ℃. Prepare the liquid sourdough one day before. This is a same-day process pastry where you mix, laminate, and bake in one day Lock-in 3/ 4- fold / 3- fold 25 layers

Dough Consistency When Mixed

KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 10 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/8 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1170 g

Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheeting Cutting Shape Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling

30 minutes bulk; then 60 minutes in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 3 fold 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet to 3.5 mm and approximately 30 cm high × 70 cm long. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long Cut the bottom of the triangle 1 cm. Roll into Croissants, Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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52. Inverse Croissant Recipe 5-4-3

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Process Detail Inverse Croissant Pastry 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4- fold / 3- fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 2314 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 5. Sheet the butter to 4 mm, Place the dough over 3/4 of the butter. Fold to make 5 layers ( see lesson #2) Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm and approximately 30 cm high × 130 cm long. Cutting Trim the top and sides. Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1 cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Section 8 - Enriched Pastry & Brioche

Enrichment of standard bread dough means adding extra ingredients that will add specific properties. These include softer eating, a sweeter taste, and improved colour and texture. While a croissant dough has additional sugar, milk powder, egg, milk, malt and butter in the dough, pastries such as laminated brioche and Danish pastry include higher quantities of sugar, egg, and butter. These added ingredients increase the tenderness of the pastries. Adding egg and the extra butter used in these recipes also reflects on the internal structure and colour, making them more yellow internally. The other effect enrichment has on the pastry is that the extra butter can greatly retard the yeast. I recommend using special enriched dough osmotolerant yeast, made specifically for briochetype doughs where available. Additionally, the pastry takes on a lot of extra colour. It may require a lower baking temperature and/or a lighter eggwash… one diluted with milk or water to reduce colouration while the pastry bakes in the oven. When using extra eggs, sugar and, of course, butter, the cost also needs to be reflected in the price of the pastries. Especially in these times of economic inflation, due in no part to the current war in Ukraine. I have included some recipes for brioche, laminated brioche, Danish pastry, flavoured butter, and chocolate brioche dough in this section. Developing the dough to a good windowpane status is important before adding the extra butter required when making brioche. Otherwise, the dough will be unable to trap the fermentation gasses due to the shortness of the dough with lots of butter. Mixing times for highly enriched doughs are longer than for leaner doughs, so you will need 3 to 5 minutes of additional mixing time to fully incorporate the extra butter. I highly recommend chilling the pastry overnight before commencing the sheeting of the pastry. It enables the dough to gas slowly and develops additional flavour and maturity, which eases production the following day. When made properly, the brioche freezes well, and I recommend you sheet the brioche to 12 mm thick before freezing. The freezer can rapidly bring down the temperature of the thinner dough piece, which helps prolong the shelf life of the pastry in the freezer. Smaller ice crystals form the faster you freeze, causing less damage to the yeast and improving the yeast the frozen shelf life of the product.

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53. Brioche Dough

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Process Detail Brioche Desired Dough Temperature

Mixing Times Dough Consistency When Mixed Weight (1 Mix) Fermentation Time

Chill Scale and Shape Tray up Proof Eggwash

25 ℃ This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day and freezes well KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Smooth and firm; good development; ensure you develop a good windowpane and only then add the butter 1/3rd at a time, clearing the butter at each addition until it is all incorporated. 1669 g 45 minutes bulk; then flatten into a rectangle, wrap in plastic, and leave overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃, or you can chill for one hour and use once chilled 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator As required, Brioche à Tête, Brioche rolls. Bench rest for 20 minutes and reshape Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 60 -90 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries, sprinkle nib sugar

Baking Small Brioche

Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes

Baking Large Brioche

Fan oven 165 ℃ for 25 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 30 minutes

Glazing

Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100g sugar,100g water 20g honey)

Cooling

Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

54. Chocolate Brioche Dough

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Process Detail Chocolate Brioche

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day and freezes well Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development. Ensure you develop a good windowpane and only then add the butter 1/3rd at a time, clearing the butter at each addition until it is all incorporated. Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1785 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then flatten into a rectangle, wrap in plastic, and leave overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃, or you can chill for one hour and use once chilled Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Scale and Shape As required, Bench rest for 20 minutes and reshape. Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 60 -90 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Small Brioche Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Baking Large Brioche Fan oven 165 ℃ for 25 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 30 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water 20 g honey) Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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55. Raspberry Brioche Sablée

One of my favourite Viennoiseries was taught to me by my dear friend François Wolfisberg,

located

in

Carouge,

Switzerland. François and I met in the late 1990s

as

fellow

competitors

in

the

European Cup of Bakery or Coupe d’ Europe de la Boulangerie. We have been friends all these years, and we regularly meet as we work, doing demonstrations in Europe or as jury members at the Coupe du Monde in Paris. This incredibly soft brioche has a soft caramelised cream and sugar mixture in the centre with raspberry pieces. The pastry is masked, dusted, and garnished with fresh mint and raspberry. It is one of the most famous creations from François’s

award-winning

bakery

in

Switzerland. The Sablée au Sucre is also one

of

François’s

personal

brioche

favourites to make and eat. Made using a buttery brioche base dough, it’s light and refreshing on the palette. It creates a longing for more—many more! This recipe makes 19 pastries.

56. Ingredients: Sablée au Sucre Filling 300 g 160 g 66 g 30 g

Fresh cream Castor sugar Custard powder Potato starch

Making the Sablée au Sucre Filling Whisk all the ingredients together using a hand whisk and place the filling in a piping bag. Chill in the refrigerator until ready to use.

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Process Detail Brioche Sablée Desired Dough Temperature 24 ℃. This can be either an overnight fermentation method or processed same day; where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day and freezes well Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development. Ensure you develop a good windowpane, and only then add the butter and mix well until it is all incorporated. It should take 3 −4 minutes Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1156 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then flatten into a rectangle, wrap in plastic, and leave overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃, or you can chill for one hour and use once chilled Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Scale and Shape 60 g, shape into a ball. Rest 15 −20 minutes and pin out to a 10 cm disc Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 60 − 90 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Flatten Using a floured 6 – 7 cm ramekin dish, flatten down the centre leaving a bay or depression in the centre Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries on the edge Filling Sprinkle chocolate chips or broken frozen raspberry pieces into the bay and pipe 25 g of Sablée filling into each pastry Baking Small Brioche Fan oven 165 ℃ for 12 minutes or deck oven 180 ℃ for 8 – 10 minutes. Remove immediately from trays and cool on wires Cool and Dust When cool, mask the baked filling with an upturned ramekin dish and dust with icing sugar.

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57. Danish Pastry

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Process Detail Danish Pastry Almond Raisin Swirls 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 24 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3; 4-fold; 3-fold fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1638 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Almond cream recipe #18

Raisins and roll up Cutting Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling Glazing Top with cherry

Spread 400 g almond filling over the sheet with a palette knife, keeping a 2 cm strip free of custard cream at the end. Moisten this strip with water to seal the coil Sprinkle 300 g of washed raisins over the almond and roll up to seal the pastry. It will be like a large Swiss roll Cut into 4 cm circles Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Glaze with apricot jam and thread with white fondant Finish with a half glace cherry

While I have included just one process above, for Danish pastry, many products can be made simply by cutting out squares or using specially made cutters from the base mix. I have included some photos on the next page with Danish ideas to help your creativity. Danish is often filled with crème pâtisserie, or cream cheese, as a base, garnished with fresh fruits and drizzled with fondant. Page | 227

In the examples above, which my students made, tinned fruits are used along with fresh berries for colour and added eye appeal. All are made using a 10 cm square of Danish pastry 4 mm thick, with four corners folded to the centre to form a crown. You can make pastries like pinwheels, diamonds, medallions, or flowers using a square shape as a base.

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58. Kouign Amann 3-4-3

The Kouign Amann was invented in 1860, a speciality pastry of Douarnenez in Finistère, Brittany, France (Lonely Planet Food, 2017). This delicious creation is credited to Baker Yves-René Scordia (1828-1878). The name originates from the Breton language combining the words for cake (kouign) and butter (amann). Kouign-Amann is a round crusty pastry, originally made from bread dough but made today using a rich Viennoiserie dough. The Kouign-Amann is a laminated brioche with many butter and sugar layers folded similarly to puff pastry, although with fewer laminated layers. Salted butter is used in the pastry and greases the 7 cm wide × 4 cm high metal rings used to bake the Kouign-Amann. This method is a 3-day process.

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Process Detail Kouign amann 3-4-3

Predough stage Prepare the day before Desired Dough Temperature 23 ℃. This is a 2-day process product. Day #1 Make the Pre-dough: Day #2, make the dough, chill, laminate, proof, and bake. When made, it can’t be stored long. The sugar in the lamination process will turn into syrup otherwise Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3, but use an envelope method to completely enclose the butter and the vanilla sugar for the lock-in. Do not cut the sides during sheeting. Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 2285 g Page | 230

Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; flatten into a rectangle, then chill for one hour in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 – Fully enclose the butter block and Vanilla Sugar Sheet to 6 mm Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 5 mm Cutting Cut to squares 9 cm wide × 9 cm high Shape Fold the 4 corners of each square to the centre to form a smaller square, as for Danish crowns. Tray up Prepare a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Place in 9 cm round tins brushed with butter and lined with sugar. Proof 60 − 90 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Sugar dusting Dust the pastries with sugar/add desired fillings before baking Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 16 to 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Caution Caramelised sugar can burn when emptying, be careful

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59. Laminated Brioche

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Laminated Brioche can be used to make Danish pastries, croissants, and delicious pastries. The extra egg, sugar and butter give the pastries a soft eating mouthfeel and exceptional flavour. Try making all types of pastry with it. You will enjoy its softness and rich taste. In France, laminated brioche is often baked in large Brioche shapes and decorated with nibbed sugar before baking. The ones I liked most were 600 g and were rolled, like Pain Aux Raisins but with no filling inside. Laminated Brioche can be eaten as is or simply delicious when toasted in slices and enjoyed with butter and jam. Whatever your personal taste preferences are you must try this pastry toasted. It is a dream.

My

favourite

is

with

Hollandaise sauce and poached egg.

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Process Detail Laminated Brioche 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-4 Lock-in 3, 4-fold; 4-fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 3868 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 4 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm, rectangle Cutting Roll up into a spiral, like pain aux raisins, but with no filling. For large, divide into 6 pieces of 600gand place in large brioche shapes For small, Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries Baking Small Brioche Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Baking Large Brioche Fan oven 165 ℃ for 25 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 30 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water 20 g honey) Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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60. Flavoured Butter

Chocolate, Vanilla, Coffee, Raspberry. Experiment with making your own flavoured butter. Over the years, I have made flavoured butter using freeze-dried fruit powders, instant coffee, dehydrated wine, and dried seaweed. Use 10% - 15% butter weight for all fruit powders, cocoa, and coffee and 6% for seaweed butter. Simply blend them on a KitchenAid to clear and make a butter block as normal. Powdered fruits with seeds should be sieved out, as the seeds will tear the pastry. Recipe #51 on the next page is made using chocolate butter. Chocolate Butter ➢ Butter ➢ Cocoa powder 15%

Chocolate Butter 1000 g 150 g

Fruit Powder Butter ➢ Butter ➢ Raspberry powder 15%

Butter Instant Coffee 15%

1000 g 150 g

Seaweed Butter 1000 g 150 g

Butter Seaweed powder 6%

1000 g 60 g Page | 235

61. Chocolate Butter Twists

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Process Detail Chocolate Butter Chocolatine 3-4-4 Desired Dough Temperature

Chocolate butter Process Method 3-4-4 Layers Formed Mixing Times

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled overnight Mix and prepare butter block Lock-in 3; 4- fold; 4- fold 33 layers

Dough Consistency When Mixed

KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1411 g

Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5 mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheeting Cutting

Shape Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling

45 minutes bulk; then overnight in at 3 ℃ 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold; 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet to 3.5 mm thick and a rectangle approximately 30 cm high × 70 cm long. Cut the rectangle into two 15 cm strips Then cut into rectangles 8.5 cm wide × 15 cm high. Mark the Cut the pastry into 4 strips. but leave the top attached, see the diagram below. Twist the centre of two strands of pastry. Roll up incorporating two chocolate bars Place in 9 cm square shapes on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃; 75% to 80% humidity Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 170 ℃ for 16 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Section 9 Cube Croissant

The croissant continues to evolve in various forms and processes. One of these forms is the Cube Croissant. A cube croissant is a pastry base baked in a mini Pullman shape with a lid. Two sizes have proved to be popular 10 cm and 8 cm. I first saw cubes while I was a member of the jury in Taipei in 2018, which was love at first sight. William Woo, based in Singapore, sent me a set of them to try, and I loved the concept. As a pilot and trainee flight instructor, I get to study math on a level I never thought I would understand. Still, I have found it helpful in many aspects of flight training pastry making, especially with croissant triangle measurements, pain au chocolate measurements, and calculating cube volumes. I must thank our teacher, Captain Peadar Conroy of Aer Arann and Galway Flying Club, for making maths and formulas fun and interesting and giving me the knowledge to apply math to my baking. In support of the math lessons from Peadar, let us consider the two most popular cube sizes, the 10 cm, and the 8 cm cubes. The internal volumes of both cubes are quite different, even though they are close in size, with only a 2 cm difference between them. The difference in internal volume is almost double. Considering this is a 3-dimensional pastry, we must calculate each cube's interior volume. Although there is only a 2 cm difference, The 10 cm cube is twice the volume of the 8 cm one. This volume difference affects the scaling weight of each one for baking and the baking time. ➢ A 10 cm cubic volume is as follows: 103 = 10 × 10 × 10 = 1000 cm3 ➢ An 8 cm cubic volume is as follows:

83 = 8 × 8 × 8 =

512 cm3

The normal rules go out the window when making these pastries, as they are baked plain or as a Bicolor pastry. However, they require a filling such as jam, crème pâtissière, ganache, crème fraîche or cream cheese. They are then decorated to make them really pop. There are two main ways of making them. You can cut two square strips of 6mm thickness, stack them on top of each other or roll the dough without filling as you would when making pain aux raisins. Cut the coiled pastry and insert it into the Pullman shape. I recommend you proof the cubes with the lids open1/3rd so you can visually see the proofing progress. When the pastry rises to 3/4 of the tin size, close the lids and bake. You may need to take the covers off, empty and finish the bake on a tray to have a consistent colour around the cube. I have included some of my favourites in the following pages and hope you will enjoy making them.

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62. Cube Croissant Large - 10 cm

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Process Detail Cube Croissant Plain – Large 10 cm

Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-4 Layers Formed Mixing Times

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Lock-in 3/Book fold/Book fold 33 layers

Dough Consistency When Mixed

KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1137 g

Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheeting

Weight Cutting

Tray up Proof Secure the lids Baking

Cooling Finishing

45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ 3, Pinch the pastry to seal the butter in the middle Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 60 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet to 6 mm thick and to 31cm × 31cm. Cut squares of 9.5 cm. Place two squares together into the 10 cm cube shape, one on top of the other. I use a water spray to ensure they stick together well. Each piece should weigh approximately 112 g. Use 2 pieces per cube to give an average weight of 222 g – 225 g Use a very sharp blade and a ruler to cut accurately. The chilled pastry will be easy to cut. Spray with water. Stack 2 pieces together. Yield 4 cubes plus some trimmings Place the cubes on a baking tray, and close all the lids except one so you can assess the proofing of the pastry 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃. The pastry should rise to 3/4 the height of the tin during proof Place a tray which is weighted on top of the cube shapes Fan oven 180 ℃ for 25 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 30 minutes. Check one cube to see if they are baked by removing the lid. If not, you can flip them over and bake for 10 minutes more upside down, as the base will colour quicker than the top of the pastry. Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Fill and cover with coloured fondant, icing sugar or chocolate/chocolate ganache

Note: This cherry cube was filled with black cherry jam and crème fraîche, or you can also use crème cheese. It was dipped in purple-coloured fondant and then garnished with fresh black cherries and a strawberry. Use your imagination and creativity to make your favourite fillings.

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63. Cube Croissant Pistachio Matcha − Small 8 cm

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Process Detail 8 cm Cube Croissant 3-4-4

Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-4 Layers Formed Mixing Times

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Lock-in 3/Book fold/Book fold 33 layers

Dough Consistency When Mixed

KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1137 g

Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheeting

Weight

Cutting

Tray up Proof Secure the lids Baking

Cooling Finishing

45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ 3, Pinch the pastry to seal the butter in the middle Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 45 minutes at 3℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 60 minutes at 3℃ Sheet to 6 mm thick and to 31cm high × 40cm long. Cut squares of 7.5 cm. Place two squares together into the 8 cm cube shape, one on top of the other. I use a water spray to ensure they stick together well. Each piece should weigh approximately 54 g. Use 2 pieces per cube to give an average weight of 108 g – 110 g Yield 10 cubes plus some trimmings Use a very sharp blade and a ruler to cut accurately. The chilled pastry will be easy to cut. Spray with water. Stack 2 pieces together Place the cubes on a baking tray, and close all the lids except one so you can assess the proofing of the pastry 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃. The pastry should rise to ¾ the height of the tin during proof Place a tray which is weighted on top of the cube shapes Fan oven 180℃ for 25 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 30 minutes. Check one cube to see if they are baked by removing the lid. If not, flip them over and bake for 10 minutes more upside down, as the base will colour quicker than the top of the pastry. Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Fill and cover with coloured fondant, icing sugar or chocolate/chocolate ganache

Note: These cubes were dipped in green matcha tea-coloured fondant, sprinkled with nibbed Pistachio, and garnished with a sliced strawberry. I used 20 g of green matcha tea powder, 100 g of crème pâtisserie and strawberry jam for the filling. Page | 242

64. Cube Croissant Red Bicolor

Page | 243

Process Detail 10 cm Red Cube Croissant 3-4-4

Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-4 Layers Formed Mixing Times

Red Dough

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Lock-in 3/Book fold/Book fold 33 layers KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Mix the red dough for the Bicolor, 110 g of dough required

Dough Consistency When Mixed

Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1106 g

Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5 mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheeting

Weight Cutting Tray up Proof Secure the lids Baking

Cooling Finishing

45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ 3, Pinch the pastry to seal the butter in the middle Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 45 minutes at 3℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold; Top with the red dough to complete the Bicolor process 60 minutes at 3℃ Sheet to 3.5 mm thick and to 30 cm high. Roll up as for pain aux Raisins. I use a water spray to ensure the roll sticks together well. Wrap and chill for 30 minutes in a refrigerator Divide into 5 pieces. Each piece should weigh 222 g – 225 g. Divide into 2 or 3 pieces Use a very sharp blade and a ruler to cut accurately. The chilled pastry will be easy to cut. Place in the cubes Place the cubes on a baking tray, and close all the lids except one so you can assess the proofing of the pastry 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃. The pastry should rise to 3/4 the height of the tin during proof Close the lids on top of the cube shapes Fan oven 180 ℃ for 25 to 30 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 30 minutes. Check one cube to see if they are baked by removing the lid. If not, you can flip them over and bake for 10 minutes more upside down, as the base will colour quicker than the top of the pastry. Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Fill and cover with coloured fondant, icing sugar of chocolate/chocolate ganache

Page | 244

65. Deep Purple - Forest Fruits Cube Bicolor

These 10 cm forest fruit cube croissants were made using standard 10 cm cube shapes. I put 8.5 cm high × 5 cm wide, greased stainless steel cylinders in the centre of the cube shapes. I rolled the purple Bicolor pastry about the cylinders to create a hollow which would be visible. I wrapped the cylinders in tinfoil to aid in taking out the tins, which worked well. I sheeted the deep purple pastry to 3.5 mm thick, then cut the Bicolor strips 30 cm high and 8 cm wide. They were proofed for 90 minutes at 27 ℃ and baked for 25 minutes at 180 ℃ with closed lids. I took the lids off, emptied them from the shapes, and baked them for 5 more minutes. Then I cooled the pastry, leaving the central tins vertical and removed the central tins when the pastry was cool. They were then filled with fruit of the forest-flavoured crème pâtisserie and forest fruits, but you can use your own creativity and create endless varieties from this technique.

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Section 10 Modern Viennoiserie

66. Nutella Cruffin Style Pastry 3-4-3 – 25 Layers

The cruffin was originally created by Kate Reid of Lune Croissanterie in Melbourne, Australia, in 2013. A Cruffin is a hybrid of a croissant and muffin. Cruffin-style pastries are popular and easily made from croissant pastry recipe #1. The pastry block is opened before sheeting and dredged with sugar to make them extra crunchy. It is refolded, sheeted to 4 mm, and cut into strips approximately 3 cm wide and 17 cm long. You can see how I form the pastry in the resources section and place them into high steel rings to proof and bake. Before baking and after proofing, I dredge them with castor sugar using a small Page | 246

sieve to help caramelise the pastry more during the baking. After baking, they are cooled, filled with Nutella, and garnished with a light dust of icing sugar. I used 60 mm high and 70 mm across steel ring sizes. The pastries in the photo on the previous page use Wilton’s special deep muffin shape for cruffins. Each form has six indentations for perfect Cruffins. Ensure you butter the tins well and dredge them in sugar before proofing the pastry. You can use a range of jams, curds, custards, ganache, and other fillings to fill and make a beautiful selection of these pastries. I have included a YouTube resource from my page with the link below on rolling and shaping these pastries.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yTUruZkkmdc

Page | 247

Process Detail Cruffins Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 Layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight 1112 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 3 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5mm and 34 cm high × 60 cm in length Cutting Fold pastry in half from the top and mark halfway 17cm. Cut to strips 3 cm wide × 17 cm long Shape Stack 3 pieces staggered and roll up. Roll up. Take the three ends and stretch over the bottom, turn over and insert your finger in the middle to create a depression in the centre. Place in buttered, sugared cruffin tins Tray up Place on baking Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃; 75% to 80% humidity Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries, then dust them with caster sugar Baking Fan oven 170℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 22 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray Sugar Roll in granulated or caster sugar while still warm Fillings Use jam, lemon curd, or use recipes #68 ganache recipes #71 Crème pâtissière, #75 coconut crème pâtissière, #81 black salted caramel or your favourite fillings.

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67. Suprême - Style Pastry

Described as the new next cronut, a croissant hybrid created by chef Dominic Ansel in New York in 2013. This new kid in town, a crispy, filled, round, mouthwatering pastry, is also a croissant hybrid. The Suprême creation is credited to the Lafayette Grand Café and Bakery in Noho, New York, in March 2022 and became a TikTok sensation. An initial version of the Suprême was a double-chocolate-filled pain au chocolat. The pastry base is made using croissant pastry, tightly coiled, proofed, and baked in high rings to preserve its round shape. When baked and cool, they are filled with distinct types of pastry cream or ganache. Then they are drizzled with ganache or icings and garnished. Popular flavours from Lafayette include the Rose Berry Spritz Suprême, Peaches N’ Crème Suprême, and Pistachio Suprême. Additional flavours are added seasonally, and customers are restricted to two pastries each to cope with the demand; queues form long lines outside their store daily. Page | 249

My interpretation of this unique creation is as follows. You can use croissant recipe #2 to make a base for these pastries, and then you can use the crème pâtissière recipe #60 to create a base filling. I have included some ganache recipes which you can try as examples. I reiterate that these ideas I provide are to act as a guide. Be careful when flipping the pastries over as per baking instructions. Sugar burn/ scalding from melted butter is a risk, so please exercise care when making these products.

I have included several ganache recipes in the next section, which you can use to make delicious fillings and toppings. Boil the cream to sterilise, and cool slightly before adding the dark and milk chocolate. These recipes include dark, milk and white ganache recipes. I have used 1:1 ratios of cream: chocolate for dark and milk. I suggest using 60:30% cream to white chocolate when using white chocolate. For the whipped ganache, the ratio is 3:1. Heat the cream to 70 ℃, pour it onto the chocolate and blend using a hand whisk. Place in the refrigerator at 3 ℃ overnight, then the following day, whip to stiffen.

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Process Detail - Suprême 3-4-3 Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm and 40 cm high × 56 cm in length Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 Layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 − 8 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight 1346 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 3 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Spray Spray with water spray Shape Roll up tightly and divide into 13 pieces of approximately 100 g each. Tray up Place 10 cm wide and 3.5cm high in metal rings brushed with melted butter and sugared. Then place the rings on a baking tray lined with baking parchment. Brush the centre of each ring with melted butter and dust with caster sugar using a fine sieve. Place the cut pastry in the sugared shapes. Proof 90 to 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Sugar Dust Dust with caster sugar before baking Weight the top of the rings Place a porous baking silicone mat on top of the pastries and then place a wire tray on top and weigh it down to prevent the pastries from rising over the rings during baking Baking 1 Fan oven 170 ℃ for 20 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 20 minutes. At this stage, you may need to remove them from the oven and flip them over to get an even bake on both sides. Baking 2 Fan oven 160 ℃ for 8 to 10 minutes or deck oven 180 ℃ for 10 to 14 minutes. You may also need to remove the rings from the pastries at this stage. You can also remove silicone mats and allow them to bake evenly Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack Finishing

Fill with pastry cream / Ganache. Garnish. Be creative! There are hundreds of ideas online.

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68. Ganache Recipes

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69. Christmas Tree Green Croissant

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Process Detail Green Bicolor Croissant 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 / 4-fold / 3-fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Green Dough Mixing Take out 14% of the dough weight after 5 minutes of mixing Add green colour and mix to clear the colour Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1106 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Add the Green Dough Pin to 2 mm and stick on the laminated dough Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm thick, 30 cm high and 50cm in length Cutting Cut to 8 cm wide × 30 cm high, cut into a right angle the triangles Shape Roll along the right angle to form a cone, Tray up Place in 8cm high rings on the baking tray Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Spray with water Spray the pastries with water Baking Fan oven 162 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 185 ℃ for 20 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water, 20 g honey) or use nappage/apricot jam. Finishing Finish with M & Ms and icing sugar. Make red ones too!

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Roll from the base of the triangle along the right angle in direction of blue arrow to form a cone. Wet and seal the base to prevent it unravelling

Paul Kelly and I had great fun making these last Christmas. Paul is the executive pastry chef at the 5-star Merrion Hotel in Dublin, Ireland. An amazing chef and a fantastic friend. We made Christmas trees in both red and green. You can go mad with exotic fillings or just leave them plain. I’m loving the texture of these ones.

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70. Raspberry Pear Marinade 3-4-4

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The raspberry pear marinade has become a signature dish of my most recognisable pastries. The marinade is best made a few days before using the pears as the colour and flavours increase with age. You will need two small tins of pear halves. There are usually 6 pear halves per small tin and you will need 3 tins for 18 pastries.

The mixture is boiled and simmered for 5 minutes. The marinade for 18 pastries is made by the following method. The juice from the tinned pears is strained into a saucepan. Sugar and frozen raspberries/raspberry purée is added to the pear juice, the vanilla is added, and the mixture is brought to a boil and simmered for 5 minutes. Strain the syrup and set aside to cool, at which point the Raspberry alcohol is added, and then the pears. Keep the strained seeds and use them as jam on top of the custard. The pink syrup mixture with the pears should be placed in a sealed container, covered, and put in the refrigerator at 3 °C for 2 days to ensure the pears' correct colouration. You must make crème pâtissière to pipe and freeze as 5 cm mini eclairs in advance. I have made a YouTube video on how to pipe the frozen crème pâtissière bars. See the link for making frozen créme pâtissière pieces for viennoiserie https://youtu.be/kwUZEcjtak4 on my YouTube channel.

71. Crème Pâtissière Recipe Galette Des Rois

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Method Detail Heat the Stage 1 milk and half of the sugar to boiling point in a small saucepan. Weigh the rest of the stage 2 ingredients separately and whisk to a fluffy and smooth mixture with a hand whisk. Once the stage 1 milk/sugar boils, remove from the heat, pour the mixture from stage 2 into the saucepan, and whisk gently. Put the pan on the heat again and keep stirring with the hand whisk until the mix thickens (the cooking time is 2 − 3 minutes per kilo of milk). Once cooked, take it off the heat and add the butter to it. Keep stirring until it is fully absorbed. Spread the crème pâtissière onto a clean tray lined with clingfilm. Then, dust with icing sugar to prevent skin from forming. Cover and place the crème pâtissière in the refrigerator to cool. When cool, store in a refrigerator. When required, beat the crème pâtissière on a stand mixer with a cake beater to soften it to piping consistency, pipe it into fingers as previously described, and freeze. Preparation and Cutting of The Pastry For the raspberry pear viennoiserie, use recipe #70 and process method 3-4-4. The recipe will make approximately 20 units. The pastry is sheeted to a thickness of 7 mm and chilled for 20 minutes to stiffen the butter and the pastry dough to enable cutting without shrinking the pastry. Place the bases on a tray using a large pear-shaped or teardrop-shaped cutter 16 cm long × 10 cm wide. The pear-shaped pastry pieces are placed on a tray with silicone paper, egg-washed and proofed at a temperature of 27 °C for 60 − 90 minutes at 75% − 80% relative humidity. As they are one flat piece of cut pastry that is not coiled, the pastry will proof quickly, half the time of a croissant or chocolatine. The proof temperature is critical as, if it exceeds 28 °C; the butter will liquefy and run out of the dough, destroying the lamination layers. When

proofed,

the

frozen custard fingers are placed

in

the

proofed

pastry’s centre and given a gentle shove downwards to embed

them

into

the

pastry. The frozen custard fingers' function prevents the custard from leaking over the edges as the pastry rises.

Check

out

my

YouTube channel below to see how the technique is done.

Raspberry

Jam/

strained seeds are then Page | 258

piped onto the frozen custard. Finally, the rinsed, dried raspberry pears are sliced five times from right to left, leaving the pear's upper part attached. The sliced raspberry pear is pressed on the custard to prevent it from falling over in the oven while baking. Using a ventilated or fan oven, preset the temperature at 220 °C, load the pastry and close the oven door. Reset the temperature to 175 °C and bake for 22 − 24 minutes. The baked pastry should cool, then glaze with nappage or apricot jam. Using a bench scraper, with the blade placed 3 mm from each pastry's edge at a 45° angle, the pastries are dusted with icing sugar. The same is done at the slender tip of each pastry using a dusting of raspberry powder. Finally, a fresh raspberry is placed on top of the baked pear on the pastry. Red chocolate hearts may also be sprinkled on the baked pear to finalise the garnish if required. How to insert frozen crème pâtissière into proofed pastry https://youtu.be/NBm1TiYAWU

Where to Get a Pear Cutter? While working in the U.K. in 2022, I learned of an excellent steel fabricator Campbells through Wayne Caddy. Campbell MacFarlane has over 40 years of experience in bespoke engineering design. He is one of the founders of Rackmaster Ltd, which has been trading for over 14 years. They design and supply a wide range of products for both big and small bakery and catering establishments, both big and small, globally. His contact details are below; he has already made many of these for students in my classes. He ships worldwide too. https://www.rackmaster.co.uk/product/campbells-dough-knife/ Page | 259

72. Praline-Orange Chocolate Bar and Buble Sugar

Method Praline Bar: Melt the chocolate; Add the orange oil; Add the praline; Finally, blend the crushed hazelnuts; Pipe into 16 g bars and cool in the freezer. Use Ice stick silicone moulds available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/Perfect-BottlesBottled-IHUIXINHE-Silicone/dp/B074JXFJY5 Method Isomalt Bubble Sugar: Blitz Isomalt sticks and colour on a blender; Add a drop of orange oil; Place a teaspoon full of mixture into a Macaron silicone mat; Place in oven 185 °C; Melt 7 to 10 minutes; Allow to cool; slightly, add whole hazelnuts while the sugar is still pliable.

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73. The Praline-Orange Chocolatine

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Process Detail Bicolor Chocolate Chocolatine Recipe 3-4-4 Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-4 Layers Formed Mixing Times

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Lock-in 3 / 4 -fold / 4 -fold 33 layers

Dough Consistency When Mixed

KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 −8 minutes on 2nd speed. Take out 120g dough weight after 5 minutes of mixing Add cocoa, butter, water, sugar, and yeast; mix to clear Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1873 g

Chocolate Dough Mixing

Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5 mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Add the Chocolate Dough Sheeting Cutting Shape Tray up Proof Eggwash Baking Cooling

45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 − fold; 45 minutes at 3℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 4 fold Pin to 2 mm and stick on the laminated dough Sheet to 3.5 mm thick and a rectangle of approximately 30 cm high × 80 cm. Cut the rectangle into two 15 cm strips Then cut to rectangles 8. cm wide × 15 cm high; brush with orange oil. Add chocolate and cut into 5 strips. Twist each strip Roll up incorporating the homemade chocolate praline bar, Place in 8 cm square shapes on the baking tray lined with baking parchment 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Gently eggwash the pastries Fan oven 170 ℃ for 20 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 22 minutes Remove from shapes and cool on a wire rack, Dust, and garnish

Allow 2 cm at the top to place the chocolate bars on. Cut the rectangle in 5 even strips down from this 2 cm line to the bottom of your rectangle Working R-L, cut the 5 strips, twist each strand several times all in the same direction. Roll up as for Chocolatine/Pain au Chocolate.

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74. Tropical Storm 3-4-4

I created this pastry inspired by our stormy weather in the West of Ireland. Named the Tropical Storm. I used a toasted coconut-infused crème pâtisserie filling and caramelised pineapple ring on laminated pastry.

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Process Detail Chocolatine/Tropical Storm 3-4-4 – 33 Layers

Desired Dough Temperature

Process Method 3-4-4 Layers Formed Mixing Times

25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Lock-in 3 / 4 -fold / 4 -fold 33 layers

Dough Consistency When Mixed

KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Smooth and firm; good development

Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix)

1137 g. Yield is 6-7 pastries

Fermentation Time Lock-in number Sheet to 5mm 1st Folding Chill Sheet gradually to 5 mm 2nd Folding Chill Sheeting 7 mm Thick Cutting Shape Tray up

45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ 3 Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 4 fold 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheet to 7 mm thick and a rectangle approximately 28 cm high × 55 cm long. Chill again for 20 minutes. Then cut into shapes 26 cm long × 9 cm wide pieces. You will get 6 – 7 pastries per batch Roll up the arms of the storm in opposite directions, Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment

Proof

60 − 90 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃

Eggwash

Gently eggwash the pastries

Crème Pâtissserie Insertion

Baking Finishing

Press the frozen coconut Crème Pâtisserie blob into the centre. Add the pineapple ring (rinse all syrup off and dry before using. Fan oven 170℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 22 minutes After baking, caramelise the pineapple with a blow torch. Brush with nappage and dust with raspberry and Mango powder. Garnish with a strawberry or Chinese lantern to finish

75. Coconut Crème Pâtissserie: Crème Pâtissserie Toasted Desiccated Coconut

200 g 50 g

Mix and pipe into 3 cm round blobs, like mini pâte a choux. Freeze until solid. Page | 264

76. Green Bicolor Raspberry Jelly 3-4-3

Use recipe #69 for the Christmas tree green croissant. The pastry is cut into squares of 10 cm, yielding 12 pastries. The sheeted pastry is then cut 5cm from the edges using a razor blade. An “L” is cut into all 4 corners, and the 4 thin strips of cut pastry are folded into the centre. Place a frozen pastry cream round in the centre and press to anchor.

77. Raspberry Jelly Pieces

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Process Detail Raspberry Jellies In a small saucepan Agar Cool Hand Blender Pour into hemispheres silicon shapes Chill or freeze until required

Place the fruit purée and sugar together in the saucepan. Bring to the boil stirring continually Sprinkle the agar on the top, and with a heat-proof spatula, simmer on medium heat for 5 minutes to dissolve Cool to 35 ℃ Using a hand blender, blend to ensure all ingredients are homogenised I used the Silko Mart silicone mould #SF005, 4 cm in diameter Place in the refrigerator at 3 ℃, or freeze until required

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Process Detail Green Raspberry Jelly 3-4-3

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3; 4- fold; 3- fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Green Dough Mixing Take out 14% dough weight after 5 minutes of mixing Add green colour and mix to clear the colour Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1106 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold; Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Add the Green Dough Pin to 2 mm and stick on the laminated dough Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 4 mm thick, 30 cm high and 40cm in length Cutting Cut to 10 cm squares, then cut “L” shaped cuts 0.5cm inside the edge of the pastry. Then fold the corners to the centre. Tray up Place on the baking trays and place the frozen crème pâtissière rounds in the centre. Press down to anchor the pastry Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Spray with water Spray the pastries with water, pipe raspberry jam on top of the crème pâtissière Baking Fan oven 162 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 185 ℃ for 20 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water 2 0g honey). Fill with Ganache or crème pâtisserie Finishing Finish with raspberry jelly disc dusted with raspberry powder, fresh raspberry dipped in icing sugar

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78. Other Fruit Jelly Recipes

Process Detail Raspberry Jellies In a small saucepan Agar Cool Hand Blender Pour into hemispheres silicon shapes Chill or freeze until required

Place the fruit purée and sugar together in the saucepan. Bring to the boil stirring continually Sprinkle the agar on the top, and with a heat-proof spatula, simmer on medium heat for 5 minutes to dissolve Cool to 35℃ Using a hand blender, blend to ensure all ingredients are homogenised I used the Silko Mart silicone mould #SF005, 4 cm in diameter Place in the refrigerator at 3℃, or freeze until required

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79. Green Bicolor Pineapple Pinwheel 3-4-3

Use recipe #58 for the Christmas tree green croissant. The pastry is cut into squares of 10 cm, yielding 12 pastries. Use the cutting diagram and dimensions for recipe #63. The sheeted pastry is then cut from each corner towards the centre. A space of 5cm is left in the centre of the pastry. I usually mark mine with a round cutter and cut from the corner to the marked circle. I have included photos below of the process. Then, 4 cut corners of the pastry are folded, one at a time, into the centre. Place a frozen pastry cream round in the centre and press to anchor to create the pinwheel shape.

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Process Detail Green Pineapple Pinwheel 3-4-3 Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3; 4- fold; 3- fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Green Dough Mixing Take out 14% dough weight after 5 minutes of mixing Add green colour and mix to clear the colour Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1106 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold; Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Add the Green Dough Pin to 2mm and stick on the laminated dough Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3℃ Sheeting Sheet to 4 mm thick, 30 cm high and 40cm in length Cutting Cut to 10 cm squares, then cut corners as in provided photographs. Then fold the corners to the centre to create a pinwheel. Tray up Place on the baking trays and place frozen crème pâtissière rounds in the centre. Press down to anchor the pastry Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Spray with water/ no eggwash Spray the pastries with water, pipe raspberry jam on top of the crème pâtissière and place a pineapple ring on the pinwheel. Baking Fan oven 162℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 185 ℃ for 20 minutes Flambe torch Caramelize the pineapple ring using a flambe touch before applying a glaze of apricot jam. Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water, and 20 g honey). Or use nappage or apricot Jam Finishing Finish with a 1/2 red glacé cherry and pipe the arms of the pinwheel with white fondant or water icing.

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80. Black Salt Salted Caramel Triangle 3-4-3

This beautiful pastry is made from laminated croissant pastry using a 3-4-3 / 3 system, sheeted to 6 mm thick, and tied in a simple knot. It is proofed and baked in a Matfer equilateral Page | 271

triangle shape, which measures 10 cm on each side. I line the tin with baking parchment for ease of release. When baked, the pastry is brushed with sugar syrup and returned to the oven for 3 minutes to set the glaze.

Process Detail Black Salted Caramel Knot 3-4-3 Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3; 4- fold; 3- fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes on 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed. Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1356 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 4 fold; Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3℃ Sheeting Sheet to 15 mm thick, 25 cm high and 42 cm in length Cutting and yield 14 pieces 3 cm. Cut to 3 cm wide. Rest for 15 minutes at ambient temperature. Tie in a knot. Tray up Place in triangular tins on baking trays Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Egg wash, allow to rest 10 minutes. Baking Fan oven 165 ℃ for 20 minutes or deck oven 190 ℃ for 24 minutes Glazing Brush with sugar glaze (Boil 100 g sugar,100 g water, and 20 g honey). Return to oven and bake for 3 minutes. Finishing Pipe 45 g of caramel into each pastry. Add a small bulb of caramel to the centre of the knot. Dust 1/2 with cocoa powder

When cool, the pastry is filled with homemade salted caramel made using black salt, but you can also use normal, pink, black or sea salt flakes. I inject each pastry with 45 g of the salted caramel and pipe a bulb of the salted caramel in the middle. To finish, I sprinkle the piped caramel with black salt and dust half of the pastry with cocoa powder.

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In the next section, I have the recipe for homemade salted caramel using cane sugar. It takes just a few minutes to make but be careful not to get sugar burns when making it. I recommend placing the salted caramel in an airtight, sterile jar when it is made. Seal with a lid or cling film and place in a refrigerator overnight to cool and set before use.

81. Black Salt Salted Caramel Filling

Process Method Black Salt Salted Caramel Melt the sugar Melt the sugar, stirring until it comes together in lumps on medium heat Stir and cook to caramel Stir with a heat-resistant spatula. Cook to 170℃ Caramel colour Butter addition Add the butter and stir to blend off the heat Double Cream addition Mix the vanilla with the double cream. Return the saucepan to the heat and stream in the double cream slowly, over one minute, to incorporate fully and stirring continually Simmering and salt addition Simmer for 1 minute. Add the black salt and vanilla off the heat Decant to a sterile container Pour into a heat-resistant sterilised glass jug/container Chill and store Cover and chill overnight in a refrigerator before use

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82. Buffalo Mozzarella Swirl

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This recipe is modified from one I worked on with former student Doireann McInerny. Buffalo mozzarella on pizza with tomato is delicious. It is also nice in laminated pastry. This spicy vegetarian-filled swirl is made from croissant pastry with a slightly reduced sugar level in the pastry. Made like Pain Aux Raisins, pesto, red or green is used instead of crème pâtissière to coat the pinned-out pastry. I generally mix the spices, salt, crushed garlic, herbs, pepper and paprika in the pesto and spread it on the pastry. Then I sprinkle the finely chopped vegetables over the pesto. For these pastries, you can use other cheeses inside, such as cheddar, blue, brie, stilton, or any of your favourite cheeses. The pastry is then rolled up and chopped into pieces, ensuring the tail is tucked in so it doesn’t open during proof. After 1/2 proof, I place thin slices of fresh mozzarella in the centre. After egg washing them before baking, I place a cherry tomato half on the mozzarella cheese to finish the pastry nicely. Use a rich eggwash with extra yolk for the best colour in the baked product. You can use other vegetables, sweetcorn, rice etc. Try your own varieties.

83. Buffalo Mozzarella Spicy Veggie Filling

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Process Method Buffalo Mozzarella Swirl

Desired Dough Temperature 25 ℃. This is an overnight fermentation method where the dough is mixed, fermented for 45 minutes, flattened and chilled until the following day for lamination Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3 /4- fold / 4- fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 1082 g Fermentation Time 45 minutes bulk; then overnight in a refrigerator at 3 ℃ Lock-in number 3 Sheet to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃

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Sheeting Sheet to 5 mm thick / Approximate sheet size 1 mix should be 40 cm high × 130 cm long Pesto addition Spread the pesto mixed with spices over the pastry sheet with a palette knife, keeping a 2 cm strip free of the pesto. Moisten this strip with water to seal the coil Chopped vegetables and rolled up Sprinkle the chopped vegetables, followed by the mozzarella, and roll up to seal the pastry. It will be like a large Swiss roll Cutting Cut into 4 cm circles Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 120 minutes 26 ℃ − 27 ℃. Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries. Place slices of mozzarella at 1/2 proof stage and add a half cherry tomato with the green stem still attached Baking Fan oven 170 ℃ for 18 minutes or deck oven 200 ℃ for 22 to 25 minutes Cooling Remove from the baking tray and cool on a wire rack

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Section 11 Improvers and Frozen Process

I try to avoid using improvers if possible. However, there is a need to use improvers, especially in industrial/commercial applications, where large batches must be made in advance and proofed and baked off at a later stage. Permitted improvers differ from country to country, so you must check what improvers are available in your country. Improvers work as a no-time dough. The dough is mixed, rested in intermediate proof for 10 minutes, scaled, rounded, and placed in the refrigerator. This dough can be processed within an hour of mixing or rested overnight in the refrigerator to develop aroma and flavour. When making croissants to refrigerate/freeze, you must reduce the water temperature, use cold water, and keep the dough hydration to 50% or below. Less water and a stiffer dough enable the pastry easier processing and have a longer shelf life in the freezer

84. Croissant with 1% Bread Improver 3-4-3

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Frozen/Frozen Pre-Proofed Croissants and Viennoiserie Pre-proofed frozen croissant and viennoiserie production is the realm of the industrial baker. While I mention the subject, the process is very scientific, requires expensive equipment /ingredients and uses a lot of energy in production and storage. The recipes supplied in this book can be adjusted to make the pre-proofed frozen pastry by making minor adjustments to the recipes and the process. Pre-proofed frozen pastries, by nature, may require a stiffer dough. This type of frozen pastry's hydration requires adjustment down to 50% of the flour weight. Special dough improvers and yeasts for the freezing process are available on the market. The Lesaffre company make a suite of products specifically for this type of frozen production. The addition of dough improver for Viennoiserie should be at a dosage recommended by the manufacturer but usually at 1% of the flour weight. A blast chiller is essential in producing preproofed frozen croissant dough because of the chiller’s ability to rapidly reduce the pastry's core temperature. Blast freezing freezes the water in the pastry rapidly, keeping the ice crystals small and minimising the damage to the product texture and the yeast during the freezing process. The dough-making process is a no-time dough; it has no real bulk fermentation stage (10 to 20 minutes) and lacks overnight fermentation to generate flavour. Adding up to 20% poolish to the recipe will add flavour to the viennoiserie made in this manner. However, adjustments to the recipe required a balance of variables. These include the quantity of butter used in the pastry. The dough is processed as a no-time dough with a desired target temperature of 18 °C to 20 °C. The mixed dough is given a 10 to 20-minute bulk fermentation, then sheeted and chilled in a refrigerator or ice blanket for 30 minutes at 3 ℃ − 4 °C. The dough is then processed using the 3-4-3 sequence, resting between every two folds in the freezer or ice blankets. When the pastry is made, it should again be rested for 30 minutes before sheeting in a freezer or ice blankets. The pastry is then sheeted, cut, shaped, and placed straight into the freezer. The stock can be drawn down from the freezer, thawed overnight in a refrigerator, proofed, and baked the next day. It can also be pre-proofed in the proofer to 3/4 proof stage at a temperature of 26 ℃ − 27 °C and relative humidity (RH) of 75% − 80%. So, for example, if the normal proof time for your croissant is 120 minutes, the time needs to be reduced to 90 minutes for preproofed. The pastry should be eggwashed and blast frozen for 30 minutes at a temperature of −18 ℃ to −20 °C. Following freezing, the raw frozen croissants should be placed into a cardboard box with a plastic liner and sealed to prevent freezer burn. The frozen pre-proofed croissants should be stored at −18 °C until required. Frozen pre-proofed croissants should be removed from their cardboard storage box in the freezer. The pastries are then placed on the baking trays and allowed to stand at room temperature for 10 − 15 minutes to defrost slightly. The croissants or other frozen pastry units Page | 279

can then be baked off at 170 ℃ − 180 °C in a fan assisted for 16 to 18 minutes or at 200 °C in a deck oven for approximately 20 minutes. Note that frozen/pre-proofed pastries with fillings, such as custard, jam, apple, or other fruit fillings, may need at least 30 minutes to defrost before baking. If you get excessive colour, you may need to reduce the oven temperature by 5 ℃ to 10 ℃ to achieve a similar colour to freshly made pastry. This recipe will freeze well for up to two weeks. For longer conservation, you need blast freezers, many improvers, and a special yeast for a freezing application. Longer conservation, up to 6 months, can be achieved using a different recipe and employing all the industry-specific improvers and yeast made specifically for frozen pastry manufacture.

85. Frozen Croissant Unproofed / Proofed 3-4-3

Process Detail Frozen / Frozen Pre-proofed Croissant 3-4-3 Desired Dough Temperature 18 ℃. This is a same-day process, where the dough is mixed, bulk fermented for 10 minutes, chilled and laminated all in one day Process Method 3-4-3 Lock-in 3; 4-fold; 3- fold Layers Formed 25 layers Mixing Times KitchenAid 2 minutes on slow; 8 minutes on medium speed. Spiral Mixer: 2 minutes 1st speed/6 minutes on 2nd speed Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 2278 g Fermentation Time 20 minutes bulk; then 30 minutes in a refrigerator 3℃ Lock-in number 3

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Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 1st Folding 4 fold Chill 45 minutes at 3 ℃ in refrigerator Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5 mm 2nd Folding 3 fold Chill 60 – 90 minutes at 3 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 3.5 mm Cutting Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1cm. Roll into Croissant Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Freeze Freeze, wrapped in plastic at this stage and store or Proof 90 minutes or3/4 proof at a temperature of 26 − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries before freezing. Freezing Freeze -18 C, if possible, use a shock or blast freezer, place in plastic bags when frozen, then into cardboard storage boxes.

A note on Blast Chillers: Blast chillers operate at lower temperatures than commercial holding or domestic freezers, which operate at − 18 ℃. Blast chilling is an expensive process. Enormous quantities of frozen products need to be made to fully recover costs and make it economical for production. The blast chiller units are costly. Still, in these days of massive energy costs, one must consider the electrical cost of operation of a blast chiller over time to justify the economics of operating one. Cryoresistance signifies the ability of yeast to maintain its gassing activity when frozen, and special yeasts are available for this application. Blast chillers accelerate cool air in the chamber. Each blast chiller may have a factory pre-set, or adjustable airflow, measured as the airspeed within the chamber. Normally, an airspeed/airflow of 4 meters per second or 4 m/s is used to chill down preproofed pastry rapidly, keeping ice crystal formation small. Depending on the products' weight, size and shape, the freezing temperatures within bring frozen ranges between −25 °C and −30 °C. The airspeed and temperature can also differ if the pastry has fillings. It is a complex process. The goal is to initially reduce the core temperature of the croissants by 1 ℃ per minute during the freezing cycle to a temperature of −12 ℃. Once this core temperature has been reached, the pastries must be wrapped in sealed, heavy plastic bags, placed in sealed cardboard boxes, and stored in a holding freezer at −18 ℃.

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Cryogenic Freezing

Other methods employed in freezing include cryogenic freezing (gas freezing), where rapid freezing is achieved by freezing in a cryogenic tunnel freezer or a spiral flash freezer. Freezing is achieved in under 10 minutes. The term “cryogenic” relates to operational temperatures below −150 ℃. However, it is used in the industrial bakery sector to refer to any freezing process that uses liquid Nitrogen (N2) or Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Cakes, pastries, bread, and muffins are all successfully frozen using cryogenics. Cryogenic freezers use controlled blasts of liquified gasses. The rapid freezing action of cryogenics preserves the quality, appearance and shape of the pastry and bakery products while assisting retention of the structure of raw pastry dough. Additionally, the moisture level retention inside the products frozen is highly efficient, so cryogenics can help keep operating/production costs low by maintaining quality and eliminating wastage. Cryogenics work by rapid freezing, spraying gasses through an atomiser which delivers a coating of cold gas directly to the surface of pastry products in the freezing tunnel. Cryogens, such as pre-proofed pastry products, are especially suited to freezing bakery products with a high surface area-to-volume ratio. As in proofing pastry, penetrating the required freezing temperature to the core or centre of the pastry arrests fermentation and rapidly enables it to freeze quickly without compromising pastry quality or shape. The outside of the product is where temperature change begins initially, forming a frozen membrane on the pastry surface. Then the gas cools rapidly to the core of the product. This process locks in the moisture, some usually lost by conventional freezing methods. The gasses freeze at super low temperatures; liquid nitrogen (N2) gas freezes at – 195.556 ℃, and carbon dioxide (CO2) gas freezes at – 78.889 ℃. Typically, pastry can be frozen between 4 to 8 minutes, depending on the weight or whether filled or unfilled. This type of freezing is also very hygienic as it reduces possible bacteriological degradation of the pastry product. In essence, the faster the freezing rate of the product, the higher the food quality will be when it is either re-baked or thawed and eaten. Once again, I reiterate that cryogenic freezing is the realm of the large-scale manufacturer. Still, the science behind how and why freezing occurs using this method is useful to know and understand. A lot of capital investment is required if you pursue this route and approach of freezing. Production volumes must be large to make it worthwhile as the energy costs and cost of the gasses are high. Artisan bakers make amazing products but cannot produce enough to supply the entire marketplace. As a result, industrial and artisan bakers must live side by side and carve out their own unique niche in the market.

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86. Pre-Proofed Frozen Croissant with Improvers 3-3 / 3 /3

Pre-proofed laminated pastry is a difficult and very technical process. Keeping the dough cool during mixing is paramount to the process. Thereafter, the pastry must be sheeted to 15 mm between each lamination stage, covered with plastic and held at −25 ℃ for 5 minutes for each lamination sequence. Once all the lamination has been completed, the pastry should again be sheeted to 15 mm, covered, and rested for 30 minutes at 0 ℃. In the “Core Temperature” section detailed on page 48, I outline how to control core temperature and the reasons why. It is an important chapter for all laminated pastry, but even more critical in making this type of pastry. The roles of improvers and specialised yeasts are vital in successfully manufacturing excellent pre-proofed laminated pastry. There are two types of frozen, pre-proofed pastry. One has a shelf life of one month after manufacture, and the other has a shelf life of between 3 to 6 months. This quality makes pre-proofed croissants and Viennoiseries transportable from large factories to global distribution outlets. I have detailed the industrial process below, using a blast freezer for precise temperature control. Fast, efficient blast freezing keeps the ice crystals from growing too large, an essential step in producing frozen pastry. Also, as is using the correct ingredients and yeast, this product has a shelf life of up to 6 months when properly stored

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Process Detail Pre-proofed Croissant 3-/ 3 / 3 /-3 - 55 layers Desired Dough Temperature 18 ℃ This is a same-day process, where the dough is mixed, chilled, and laminated in stages, chilling each stage. Process Method 3-/ 3 //3 / 3 Lock-in 3; and 3 × 3- folds Layers Formed 55 layers Mixing Times Spiral Mixer: 3 minutes 1st speed/5 minutes on 2nd speed Reduce thickness to 15 mm, Chill for 10 minutes at −25 ℃ Dough Consistency When Mixed Smooth and firm; good development Dough and Butter Weight (1 Mix) 2294 g Fermentation Time None, chill continually −25℃ Lock-in number 3, lock in the butter sheet and reduce the lock-in to 15 mm, chill for 5 minutes at −25 ℃ Sheet to 5mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 1st Folding 3 - fold; reduce to 15 mm Chill Chill for 5 minutes at −25 ℃ Sheet gradually to 5 mm Cut folded sides; Reduce slowly in units of 5mm 2nd Folding 3 - fold; Chill Chill for 5 minutes at −25 ℃ 3rd Folding 3 - fold; Reduce to 15 mm Chill Chill for 30 minutes at 0 ℃ Sheeting Sheet to 4 mm Cutting Cut to the triangles 9 cm wide × 28 cm long Shape Cut the bottom of the triangle 1 cm. Roll into croissants, Tray up Place on the baking tray lined with baking parchment Proof 90 minutes or 3/4 proof at a temperature of 26 ℃ − 27 ℃ Eggwash Gently eggwash the pastries before freezing. Use a sprayer to prevent deflation Freezing Blast freeze for 30 minutes at −25 °C; place in plastic bags when frozen, then into cardboard storage boxes. Hold at – 18 ℃ Defrost 20 minutes Remove from freezer, tray up and defrost for 20 minutes at a temperature of 20 ℃ to 23 °C Bake Bake at 170 ℃to 180 ℃ Cool Empty from the hot tray and cool on wire racks.

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Croissant History from my master’s Dissertation 2016 The following section is from my master’s Dissertation, 2016 (Griffin, J. A., 2016), which I have never published. It has a lot of interesting reading about croissant history in literature to the present day. The text links the first recipes ever recorded for laminated pastry (Payen, 1853). I hope you will enjoy it. The marriage of the French king, Louis XIV, to the Austrian princess Marie Antoinette, was regularly associated with the creation of the croissant in France. As Queen of France, she was expected to end all ties with her homeland and family; she was also compelled to fully embrace her husband’s customs and country (Man, 2016). Many believe that Marie Antoinette herself christened the kipfel, “the croissant,” thereby popularising it in France. The story is dubious, however, as a yeasted, flaky puff pastry of that name did not exist until well into the 19th century. In the 15th century, it was believed the puff pastry was perfected by the Duke of Tuscany’s court pastry chefs. From the Tuscan royal court, it was thought to have been brought by Marie de Medici and introduced to the French royal court (Hess, 1996:186). Despite the uncertainty of its origin, the account indicates a reality about pastry during this era: pastry was still the reserve of the noble and the elite. The availability of cake and pastry to the ordinary classes would not occur until well after the French Revolution (Man, 2016). Rising wealth during the era of the Habsburgs Empire in Austria, and in Vienna, between 1815 and 1848, and between 1815 and 1861 in Paris ensured that baking and pastry culture was available to an ever-growing part of both cities’ residents (Good, 1984). The main baking ingredients used in pastry and cakes, such as sugar, were still expensive but became more affordable. There has been a history of café culture in Paris for approximately 100 years currently, and pastry shops were coming into fashion among these wealthy classes (Chevallier, 2003).

As butter was both expensive and scarce before the Franco-Prussian War, Napoleon III held a competition to craft a replacement for butter. The importance of this competition at the time indicates pastry’s importance to the French diet. The outcome of this contest was a primitive form of margarine, invented by Mége-Mouriez, using chopped beef lard, water, and sheep’s stomach (Pollard, 2010). The significance of the margarine, while inferior to butter, later led to butter croissants being referred to as “croissant au beurre” to distinguish them from those made with margarine, which was called “croissant ordinaire.” The other distinguishing feature was that the croissant au beurre was straight, with the tips of the pastry pointing outwards, while the croissant made with margarine were, and are to this day, fashioned into a crescent shape (Applefield, 2008:317). Page | 285

The Croissant in French Literature The croissant has a vague yet documented history in French literature. François Anselme Payen first mentioned the term "croissant" in print in his book Precis théorique et pratique des substances alimentaires et des moyens de les améliorer, de les conserver et d'en reconnaître les altérations (Payen, 1853). Ten years later, Maximilien Paul Emile Littré provided in his book Dictionnaire de la langue Française Littré a definition for the word “croissant” – "Petit Pain ou petit gâteau qui a la forme d'un croissant" – which translates into English as “Small bread or little cake which is shaped into a crescent” (Littré and Paul, 1863). Jules Gouffé, in his 1867 book Le Livre de Cuisine, included a recipe for crescent-shaped almond paste biscuits (Gouffé, 1869:548). Meanwhile, in their book Oxford Companion to food, food historians Alan Davidson and Tom Jaine (1999) could not find any printed recipes for croissants as we know them before the 1900s (Davidson and Jaine, 1999:232). In support of Davidson and Jaine, McGee (1984) cites Calvel in On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen (1984:567), recounting that the croissant appeared on the international stage as “Wiener Brot” or Vienna Bread at the 1900 World Fair in Paris. By the 1870s, the croissant had inspired Charles Dickens so much that it was referred to in 1872 in his weekly periodical titled All the Year Round (Bucataru, 2009): The workman’s pain de ménage and the soldier’s pain de munition, to the dainty croissant on the boudoir table (Dickens, 1872).

Croissant Twentieth Century to Present Day

Some recipes for French pastry products named croissant- or kipfel-type pastry were evident in the years following the opening of Zang’s bakery (Chevallier, 2009:6). However, it was not until the beginning of the 1900s that the first documented puff pastry, or pâte feuilletée, the recipe was made using yeast as an additional leavening agent. The combined laminated and yeasted pastry was referred to as a croissant by a French baker named Sylvain Claudius Goy in 1915. Concerning his recipe and methods, Goy described using a yeasted dough in conjunction with the lamination techniques employed to produce pâte feuilletée. This procedure is the basis by which all modern croissants are made today (Goy, 1915).

The significance of skilled labour and quality ingredients to produce an excellent croissant became evident in the early 1900s. However, sugar rationing was common during World War I, and selling non-essential food items, such as pastries, was provisionally forbidden (Transchel and Osokina, 2015). Following World War II, as countries rebuilt their cities and economies, the Page | 286

increasing trend of industrialisation and mass-production of goods meant that many foodstuffs, including croissants, were more plentiful than before the war when livestock and crops had been in noticeably short supply (Murray and Millett, 2009:561). As European Community trading gathered momentum in the 1970s (Pal, 2012), many French bakeries were already purchasing massproduced croissant dough and frozen croissants as the technologies used in their manufacture improved (Man, 2016). This trend has continued to increase year on year to this day. A realisation that the traditional model of Artisan pastry manufacture was becoming increasingly more expensive convinced many bakeries to embrace the frozen pastry model and shun the labourintensive artisan approach (Gomez, 2014). The mass production and modernisation of the croissant have sadly gone to the extreme opposites of Zang’s ideals, with mass-produced croissants ranging from those of high quality for Starbucks (Kummer, 2013) to those made in Poland by SPS HANDEL SA. With a six-month shelf life, the latter contains an exceedingly large quantity of additives (Rose, 2015). In 2015, the Elvan Group in Eskisehir near Istanbul, Turkey, recognised the continuing rise in European sales of croissants and has recently built the world’s largest croissant-producing plant. According to the plant’s manager, Celik (2015), the factory will have an output of 220 million pieces annually. It will target the European croissant market when operational. The picture on the right shows the Kriss Croissant product (Rose, 2015). Its ingredients include the following: wheat flour, caramel flavour filling 25%, sugar, partly hydrogenated vegetable oils, water, skimmed milk powder, egg yolk powder, emulsifier (E475), thickener (E461), preservative

(E202),

flavouring,

margarine,

vegetable oils, partly hydrogenated vegetable oils (palm oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, emulsifiers (E471), soy lecithin, salt, preservatives (E202, E 200) acidity regulator (E 330) antioxidant (E307), flavouring, colour (beta-carotene), sugar, wheat gluten, yeast, emulsifiers (E471, E472) flavouring, preservatives (E282, 270, E200) flour treatment agent (E300). Parisian artisan baker Michel Lyczak was the 2014 winner of the Best Butter Croissant Award from the Chambre Professional des Boulangers et Patissiers. Lyczak insisted on making his doughs using only the finest ingredients consisting of high-protein flour, fresh milk, sugar, salt, eggs, and high-quality butter sourced from the region of Poitou-Charentes. All his croissants were cut and rolled by hand at his tiny bakery 68 Rue Paul Vaillant Couturier because he wanted to maintain high standards (Fiegl, 2015). Other famous Parisian bakers, such as Eric Kaiser, champion the iconic croissant and stated in his recent book, The Larousse Book of Bread: 80 Recipes to Make at Home, that Page | 287

a croissant is a traditional product that has been sought after and consistently popular over the years because of its specific taste and texture. The croissant will continue to remain a best seller (Kayser, 2015).

There is no doubt that Parisian bakers value the enduring legacy of Auguste Zang, and his kipfel croissant has undoubtedly influenced many of the world's artisan and industrial bakers. Still, we must question whether the preservation of Zang’s great bread and pastry legacy is in the hands of today's CDM 2016 artisans? The next section explores Auguste Zang himself and details his enigmatic influence on French bread-baking from his Boulangerie Viennoise on Rue Richelieu in Paris. In true Parisian fashion, a campaign was recently launched to shun mass-produced foods and protect their food artisans via a national coalition of food retailers, which encourages artisan producers, including bakeries, to display its slogan, “Ici, c’est humain,” or “Here, it is human” (Fiegl, 2015). One such artisan establishment, La Boulangerie de St Germain, was assisted by its millers and flour suppliers, Laraison Freres. The family-owned mill which manufactures Bagatelle, a high-quality “Red Label” flour (which I have used), provides the bakery with promotional materials to distinguish itself as an artisanal food producer which is not using industrially manufactured pastry in its bakeries (Boulangerie-Pâtisserie de Saint-Germain, 2016).

The artisan baking community is rallying against the mass-produced bakery foodstuffs, which is a noble and necessary act. Many bakeries in France have succumbed to buying frozen pastry and advertising it as its own. While there are strict bread regulations in France under the 1993 Bread Laws Decree, Article 2 (Cooks info.com, 1993) regarding the language used to define homemade bread, no such rules exist for Viennoiserie (Samuel, 2012). This situation has led to abuse whereby many bakers are advertising frozen, factory-produced croissants as their own. Considering this development, one would imagine that Zang would be pleased to see that the artisans are once more promoting and protecting the quality and legacy of his beloved croissant.

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Section 12 Managing Trimmings/Waste

To close this publication, it is important to address waste/trimmings. Managing waste has never been more important in these challenging times when energy and raw materials are spiralling in cost. Eliminating waste strengthens the bottom line and your baker/pastry chef's profitability. When correctly used, trimmings can be used up to make great laminated pastry without affecting quality. In my classes, I always teach waste management and look at the following scenarios as an objective method of using up pastry trimmings. Trimmings can be used up in several ways: ➢ They can be incorporated into pastry before the final sheeting ➢ They can be added to the dough and reused at the mixing stage ➢ They can be cut up into small pieces, mixed with cinnamon sugar and made into monkey bread ➢ They can be re-sheeted, cut into squares, and made into custard/apple squares. Note: In this chapter, I focus on incorporating trimmings directly into the dough during dough mixing as an added ingredient. I examine the level of trimmings from 0% to 25%, and the impact the addition of the trimmings has on the butter content of the mixed dough. The other impact is product yield, up to 20% more product, which increases your bottom profitability. Incorporating Trimmings into a Block of Pastry If you examine your production sequences, we generally make what I call “Naked Pastries” or a baked finish and require the pastry to be made from virgin pastry without any inclusions such as Croissants and Pain au Chocolat. We also make Pain aux raisins, which are finished with apricot glaze and fondant. To this end, let us examine a bakery producing the classics, Croissant, Pain au Chocolat and Pain aux Raisins. Sequence the production so you make the croissant first. Set aside all trimmings covered in a bowl in the refrigerator. Next, make the pain au chocolate and combine all the trimmings with the croissant ones. Finally, when making the pain aux raisins, before final sheeting, open the book or Page | 289

half-fold and place the strips of cuttings from the other pastries on the open leaf of pastry. Then seal once more and sheet the pastry in a rectangle to 3.5 mm thick. The trimmings will blend well into the sheeted pastry, and as you roll it up into a long sausage of pastry, there should be no wastage, and all trimmings will be used up. Adding Trimmings into The Dough Mix You can add trimmings to the dough when making it. After all, the recipe is the same one you make daily… what harm can it do? and how will it affect quality? The recommendations are to add 10% − 15% trimmings of dough weight or 100 g – 150 g per kg of dough. I want to examine two factors here which may affect your pastry. Firstly, while the recipe is balanced, the pastry trimmings have been fermented for at least 24 hours, adding acidity to the dough. The large presence of mature yeast in the trimmings will cause the pastry to become acidic, breaking down the protein chains, which causes tearing and collapse during the final proof and bake. You will also notice the pastry will tear and is fragile when too acidic. I have provided a series of spreadsheets in the next section, 0% to 30% trimmings addition, to analyse how adding trimmings affects the balance of the butter% in the recipe. Your final dough weight will change accordingly if you always use the same recipe and add the trimmings at different percentages. You will also need to adjust the quantity of laminating butter required for the new dough head weight to keep the ratios the same and the recipe in balance. Using a simple rule of thumb, where the lamination butter is always one-half the flour weight, in the recipe, you will see a new dough head weight and a new lamination butter weight required with each increment in additional trimmings.

Important Rules to Remember for The Series of Spreadsheets in This Section ➢ Dough ingredients are based on bakers% − Flour being 100% always ➢ Standard soft butter addition is 5% in all cases ➢ Adding trimmings will increase the quantity of butter in the dough ➢ This additional butter percentage is reflected in each table ➢ The lamination butter in the trimmings does not add additional lamination to the pastry ➢ The mixing of the trimmings in the dough simply blends it into the dough as an ingredient ➢ Lamination butter is added as 50% of the flour weight in each recipe ➢ Lamination butter weight and hydration are equal and constant – 50% of flour weight.

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87. Base Recipe 0% Trimmings

We can see from the above spreadsheet the base croissant recipe example with no trimmings. The total butter% in the pastry comprises 5% soft butter in the dough. Adding 28.5% laminated butter (50% of the flour weight) gives 33.5% butter in the base pastry recipe. The yield is fifteen croissants.

All ingredients in the recipe remain the same throughout as bakers%; because the formula is balanced, but the dough head weight and lamination butter required will increase accordingly. These quantities are reflected in the purple column. The Lamination butter is already in the pastry trimmings, increasing the amount of butter in the dough when the trimmings are mixed into the dough.

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88. Base Croissant with 5% Trimmings

When we analyse the above spreadsheet of 5% addition of trimmings with the bakers and dough%, we can see the effect of 2.4% of additional butter in the dough with just 5% trimmings added to the dough on butter. This level of trimmings increases the butter from 5% to 7.4%. Croissant yield rises to sixteen units.

89. Base Croissant with 10% Trimmings

When we analyse the above spreadsheet of the 10% addition of trimmings with the bakers and dough%, we can see the effect of 4.5% of additional butter in the dough with just 10% trimmings added to the dough on butter. This level of trimmings increases the butter from 5% to 9.5%. Page | 292

Butter is an expensive commodity. As such, you could reduce/eliminate the butter in the dough mix if adding trimmings at 10%, as the laminated butter already in the trimmings is pushing up the butter% in the dough and the expense of the pastry. Levels above this will make the dough sticky and more difficult to process. The yield is 16 Croissants if processed as is.

90. Base Croissant with 15% Trimmings

When we analyse the above spreadsheet of 15% addition of trimmings with the bakers and dough%, we can see the effect of 6.5% of additional butter in the dough with 15% trimmings added to the dough has on butter quantity. This level of trimmings increases the butter from 5% to 11.5%. As such, you could now eliminate the butter in the dough mix. The batch weight is 1334 g, and the yield is now18 Croissants as processed. You have gained three units by reworking the trimmings. The sale of this extra croissant account for almost 20% of the batch, yielding an increase of 20% in profitability!!!

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91. Base Croissant with 20% Trimmings

Adding 20% trimmings has increased the dough weight from 887 g to 1102 g. The total butter% from 5% to 13.3%. As such, you could eliminate the soft butter in the dough mix. The yield is now 18 Croissants if processed as is. I would also advise reducing the yeast quantity to between 3% − 4%, as the mature trimmings make the dough highly active and acidic

92. Base Croissant with 25% Trimmings

Adding 25% trimmings has increased the dough weight from 887 g to 1159 g. The total butter% is from 5% to 15%. If you proceed to make a product with this level of trimmings, I would make it as Danish Pastry and adjust the egg quantity as there is too much butter in the croissant dough. The Page | 294

yield is now 20 Croissants. I would also advise reducing the yeast quantity down to between 3% − 4% as the trimmings make the dough highly active, and this level of trimmings will make the pastry very acidic.

93. Base Croissant with 30% Trimmings

Summary We have looked mathematically at the effect of adding trimmings on the recipe and yield. Given the acidic impact of trimmings and the cost of butter, I recommend using 10% − 15% trimmings when mixing dough. The trimmings will act perfectly as pâte fermentée imparting aromatic features, great elasticity, and flavour. You can also remove the soft butter from your base recipe at these levels when scaling. There is just enough butter in the trimmings to keep your recipes consistent and balanced and save money by not generating or throwing away waste trimmings. You are also not putting too much butter in your pastry, making it more expensive and greasier! The next section will explore many common faults associated with croissant making. I weekly get photos sent on Instagram/ FaceBook Messenger or my social media pages by friends and group members asking what went wrong with their pastry. Questions vary from under-proofing, underbaking, too much flour during processing, torn pastry etc. So, to help you diagnose baking faults, I have produced a table of the most common faults I come across weekly from the queries sent to me. The list is not exhaustive but covers the main problems encountered during croissant manufacture.

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Common Faults in Pastry Making The table below is a list of the most common pastry-making faults. It is not exhaustive but will serve as a tool to help diagnose why your pastry is not baking well, or the crumb structure is poor.

Table 3 - Common pastry making faults

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Three Most Common Faults in Croissant Making

In the photo on the left, you can clearly see a white streak in the centre of the chocolatine. This is caused by incorrect

lamination,

where

un-

laminated dough remains in the pastry, usually at the edges. To rectify this, ensure you do not have overhangs / copious quantities of dough at the ends of your pastry. Trim the tops and bottoms of your sheeted pastry before you cut your chocolatines into rectangles to avoid this happening to your pastry. See page 75 on how to trim the pastry before cutting in triangles.

You can see a white streak in the photo on the right again. It is smaller than the previous photo. An indication again of incorrectly laminated dough. Now, with attention to the core or centre, you can see a large hole. This was/is the triangle's base when it was formed. If you look carefully, you can see the lip at the bottom of the triangle, which has separated. This can happen for two reasons, the first being that the triangle was not rolled tightly enough at the start of shaping. Secondly, there could have been an excess of flour on the edge of the pastry, which prevented it from sticking to itself as the pastry was first rolled. Getting this section right and rolling it tight when forming croissants is important. Then, you shape the rest of the croissant gently. Otherwise, it will tear during proof and baking. I have several shaping videos on my YouTube channel. Visit the link below: Hand rolling a croissant: https://youtu.be/VoeUD3wwRQ0 Page | 297

Although slightly grainy, the photo above demonstrates two common faults in croissant pastry. Firstly, you can see how close the texture is. This is classic over-lamination. Many people forget to include the lock-in number or get lost in production and fail if they have given two or three folds. In a classic 3-4-3 lamination sequence, twenty-five layers are formed. If you forget the lock-in or do not count it and give the pastry even one extra 3-turn, the layers increase, closing the texture. In the example above, 25 layers × 3 = 75 layers – 2 dough touching points, giving 73 layers. If you accidentally gave the same pastry block and an extra 4-fold, the number of layers gets even larger; 25 × 4 = 100 layers −3 dough touching points = 97 layers instead of 25! The second fault in this photo is that if you follow the coil from the centre, watch as the spiral opens outwards, it starts to separate, and the layers come away, creating large holes and gaps. These gaps are evident throughout the pastry as you track the coil from the centre to the outside. In this instance, the fault can be caused by the pastry skinning before being formed. Always keep the pastry covered with plastic to avoid this issue. An excess of flour could also be the cause; the flour will dry the pastry's surface and prevent the pastry and prevent the pastry sticking together. During proof, gaps are created, and the layers fall off one another due to the force of gravity. This example also shows underproof as the bubbles are larger towards the outside and much smaller towards the core or centre.

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Other Online Resources My YouTube Channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/ucsmfbyjsiu4e7du-kmu6ing/ Twisted chocolatine shaping using homemade chocolate bars https://youtu.be/klsvyc1omoo Pain chocolate shaping - Three ways https://youtu.be/uheq8fjbffk Croissant bicolor 3-4-4 pastry process https://youtu.be/q-o0cyjane0 Twisted chocolatine bicolor shaping and makeup https://youtu.be/qr_SS3aWSRs Slicing laminated pastry to relieve elastic recoil https://youtu.be/gscqic8hpxk Croissant make-up dough video with rolling and a 3-fold https://youtu.be/nhsavshz6c0 Explaining elastic recoil tension in laminated pastry https://youtu.be/vi90mhc2t_U The lock in process of dough and butter in pastry making https://youtu.be/J_j4umea7ow Butter block and hand lamination https://youtu.be/KI7VTQQISFw Coupe du Monde Chocolatine Toulouse, France 2019 https://youtu.be/HQW4TfDnmvY Chocolatine scored using a claw and scored using a knife https://youtu.be/s-aV1bzKnpc Raspberry pear marinade, dusting, and masking techniques https://youtu.be/qYUHmcZbypU How to incorporate trimmings to reduce wastage https://youtu.be/mA22qWphP8E The correct procedure for wrapping laminated pastry https://youtu.be/RAb-aVWX6tQ Making frozen Crème Pâtissière pieces for viennoiserie https://youtu.be/kwUZEcjtak4 How to insert frozen Crème Pâtissière into proofed pastry https://youtu.be/NBm1Ti-YAWU Christmas jiggle jiggle https://youtu.be/2ifa63fspqs Christmas chocolatines https://youtu.be/bxzinvf118e Seaweed dissertation: https://arrow.tudublin.ie/tfschcafdis/1/ Cruffin™ style pastries: https://youtu.be/yturuzkkmdc 5-4-3 Hand lamination sourdough croissant pastry: https://youtu.be/irmbjlvxls4 Chilling laminated dough using frozen vegetables https://youtu.be/-WZ9w0gPjyg Brød &Taylor home proofer: https://brodandtaylor.com/ Hand lamination hack using wooden guides: https://youtu.be/fyRCB4G4-Qo Kouign Amman preparation final fold: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNM22D7jLhY Page | 299

Puff Pastry Hand Lamination Bible: https://youtu.be/rKvDjMQDySY Christmas Mince Pies made with Butter Puff Pastry: https://youtu.be/qJN_Qbf9ZNM Hand rolling a croissant: https://youtu.be/VoeUD3wwRQ0 Japan Kneader Co., Ltd. https://kneader.jp/en/product/doughsheeter_rs201/ Inverse Croissant pastry: https://youtu.be/O2WblPm6CKg Croissant Shaping Tabletop view: https://youtu.be/oYX3tjtYnqQ Raspberry Cross Laminated Pastry: https://youtu.be/q2Uh5lISSGs Bicolor Cube Croissant: https://youtu.be/0r-Acbh6IWs Cappuccino Croissant Pastry: https://youtu.be/NKW1yW88xXw Wholemeal Croissants: https://youtu.be/I9VvkKvIQHc Mozzarella Sesame twists: https://youtu.be/bzxg_MBrjQA Croissant Knot The triangles: https://youtu.be/CPJI-pUNZPU Plasticizing Butter: https://youtu.be/WNKUYs7UKRY Pain aux Raisins: https://youtu.be/iBdqQjG3CvU Mini Pain au Chocolat/ Chocolatines: https://youtu.be/4NXKjhY9Cx0 Christmas Tree Croissant: https://youtu.be/UckrWMUjP-I Gluten Free Croissant shaping: https://youtu.be/EZH5G4UeKYk

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The Art of Lamination Index

Lamination systems

2nd Folding, 87 3-folds, 74, 93, 97, 190 3-lock-in, 62, 180 4-folds, 92, 95, 200, 202, 205, 207 5-lock-in, 57, 180 A AABS (Acetic Acid Bacteria), 155 Abbreviations, 2, 10 Acetic Acid Bacteria (AABS), 155 Acknowledgements, 2, 13 Active dried yeast, 23 Active dry yeast, 2, 23 Add cocoa, 112, 262 Adding trimmings, 9, 290, 293, 295 Addition of dough improver for viennoiserie, 279 Adjustment, roller size, 66 Adsorption, 27 Air, 128, 171, 185 Akademie Deutsches Bäckerhandwerk Weinheim, 12 Almond cream recipe, 6, 139, 227 Almond Croissant, 6, 138–39 Almond flakes, sliced, 137 Alpha crystalline form, 30 Amann, Kouign, 8, 229 Amazon, 47, 260 Ambient temperature, 23, 272 Anatomy, 2, 17 Anchor Butter, 25 Ancient Rome, 181 Antioxidant, 287 Antoinette, Marie, 285 AP flour, 20, 22 Apple compote, 7, 172–73 Art of Lamination, 14, 135, 145 Art of Lamination and Laminated Pastry, 11, 52, 71, 306 Ash content, 19–20, 165

B Bacteria and wild yeasts, 152 Baked Almond Croissant, 6 Baker Raymond Calvel, 35 Bakers, home, 39, 46–47, 49, 159 Bakers flour, 22 Bakers maths, 44 Bake-stable powdered colour, 145 Baking, gluten-free, 198 Baking Croissants, 5, 79 Baking Large Brioche, 222–23, 234 Baking Problems Solved, 301 Baking resources, 21 Balance, 40, 62, 73, 77, 159, 279, 290 Base croissant recipe, 100, 122, 145 Base Recipes, 6, 9, 65, 89, 122, 295 Base Temperature Calculation, 3, 35, 71 Bedu, David, 108–9 Bellies, 4, 58–61, 69–71, 92, 94–95, 98–99, 105–7 Bellies in photo, 107 Bench rest, 222–23 Bicolor chocolate recipe, 110 Bicolor, 108, 114, 122, 244 Bicolor Cube Croissant, 300 Bicolor pastry, 107, 109, 238 Bitter almond essence, 139 Black Salt Salted Caramel Filling, 9, 273 Blade, 32, 259 Blast chilling, 281 Blast freezers, 280–81, 283 Blitz Croissant Pastry, 6, 132 Blitz method, 16, 59 Blooming, 23 Bogna Griffin, 14 Book fold/Full fold/Four-fold, 52 Bottom edges, 115, 118, 131, 207 Bread flour, 21, 45 Bread Improver, 9, 23 Brioche, 29, 109–10, 220, 222, 302 Brød &Taylor home proofer, 299 Page | 305

BT (Base Temperature), 10, 31, 35–36 BT calculation formula, 35 BTPs (Butter Touching Points), 10, 57 Bubbles, carbon dioxide gas, 43 Buffalo Mozzarella Swirl, 9, 274 Business Ponsford’s Place, 217 Butter dry, 25, 28, 180 soft, 291, 294–95 unsalted, 26, 30–31, 187 Butter and butter preparation, 71 Butterfat, 18, 28, 30–31 Butter flavours, 24, 122, 208 Butter layers vaporize, 40 Butter Making, 3, 25 Butter puff paste, 168, 175 Butter-to-dough recipe, 72 C Cakes king’s, 181 little, 286 popular Kings, 181 Calculating cube volumes, 238 Calvel, 19, 286, 301 Cappuccino Croissant Pastry, 300 Captain Peadar Conroy, 238 Caramelize, 126, 247, 264 CDMC. See Coupe Du Monde Chocolatine Cheeses, grated Gruyere, 188 Cherry cube, 240 Cherry tomato, 275 Chill and rest, 169, 175, 177, 179, 185 Chilling flour overnight, 33 Chocolate bars, 85, 120, 147, 212, 215, 237, 262 homemade, 299 Chocolate bicolor, 110, 114 Chocolate brioche, 109 Chocolate Sticks Valrhona Used During CDMC, 3, 24 Chocolatines, 5, 8, 10, 64, 208, 215, 297, 299–300 Chocolatine World Cup, 24 Christmas chocolatines, 299 Christmas jiggle jiggle, 299

Christmas Mince Pies, 188, 300 Christmas Red Bicolor Croissant, 6, 113 Christmas tree, 265, 269 Christmas Tree Croissant, 300 Churning, 26–28 CIA (Culinary Institute of America), 16, 167, 301, 303 Cinnamon sugar recipe, 195 Classic croissant shape, 75 CO2 gas, 151–52 Cocoa powder, 101, 110, 120, 122, 235, 272 Coffee, 17, 109, 124, 134, 149, 235, 302 Coils, 17, 76, 78, 193, 195, 205, 298 Cold fermentation process, 49, 65 Colour Bicolor Croissant 3-4-3, 118 Colour Cross Lamination, 7, 145 Coloured butter, 5, 102, 140 Common pastry making faults, 296 Compressed yeast, 22–23 Control core temperature, 283 Core temperature, 3, 10, 46, 48, 281 Core temperature theory, 71 Count of layers, 52 Coupe Du Monde Chocolatine (CDMC), 3, 10, 13, 24, 299 Covid pandemic, 13–14 Craig’s Wholemeal Croissant, 8, 216 Cranberry Custard Twists 3-4-3, 6, 130 Creative Culinaire Academy, 11, 197 Crème pâtisserie, 131, 144, 207–8, 242, 267 Crème pâtissière recipe, 191, 195, 204, 206, 250 Croissant 3-3-3, 80 Croissant 3-4-3, 159 Croissant Anatomy, 71 Croissant bicolor chocolate, 6, 111 Croissant bicolor, 6, 110 Croissant bicolor 3-4-3, 109 Croissant dough, hand rolling, 68 Croissant history, 9, 285 Croissant Knot, 300 Croissant production, 74, 150 Croissants cube, 8, 238 forming, 297 frozen, 279, 287 Page | 306

Croissant Twentieth Century, 9, 286 Cross-lamination, 7, 108, 140 Cross-lamination instructions, 147 Cross Lamination Techniques, 108, 140 Crumb, 29, 73–74, 79, 139 Cryogenic Freezing, 9, 282 Crystals alpha, 30 prime, 30 Cube Croissant Large, 8 Cube Croissant Large-10, 239 Cube Croissant Red Bicolor, 8, 243 Cube sizes, popular, 238 Culinary Institute of America. See CIA D Dairy Free, 127 Danish, 227 Danish crowns, 231 Danish Pastry, 8, 226, 294 DDT. See Desired Dough Temperature DDT and BT calculations work, 36 Deck oven baking, 42 Deco Relief, 110, 114, 145 Deep Purple, 8, 245 Delay staling, 197 Desired Dough Temperature (DDT), 10, 31, 33–37, 81, 83, 85, 87, 89, 222–23 Desired Dough Temperature and Base Temperature calculations, 71 Detempre, 31 Diagram core pastry, 48 cutting, 269 Direction, 58–60, 62, 95, 99, 142, 144, 149, 255 Disc, raspberry jelly, 267 Dough mixed, 36, 200, 202, 205, 207, 279, 289 no-time, 278–79 un-laminated, 297 Dough components, 10, 29, 50, 59, 110, 125 Dough elasticity, 69 Dough encapsulates, 51 Dough layers merge, 54 Dough temperature, 22, 32–33, 36–37

Dough temperature calculation, 35 Dough temperature control, 31 Dough Touching Points, 10, 51, 99 Doves Farm, 10, 21, 302 Dried yeasts, 22–23 DTP, 5, 10, 51, 57, 93, 95–96, 99, 102–3 E Egg, 45, 73, 126–28, 137, 139, 183, 200, 202, 220 Egg washing, 44, 275 Eggwash recipes, 25, 208 Elasticity, 22, 38, 49, 58, 62, 94, 196 Elastic recoil, 50, 61–62, 71, 89–90, 98, 165, Elastic recoil tension, 99, 299 Encapsulate, 18, 180 Endosperm, 20 Energy costs, 282 English Method, 15, 52, 54, 59 European flour numbering system, 302 Extensibility, 22, 24, 164 Extra Flaky Puff Paste 3-3-3, 187 F FaceBook group page, 11, 306 Family Secrets, 14, 150 Fat, 17, 25, 27–28, 43, 54, 98 Fermentation, 23, 25–26, 38–39, 43, 150, 152, 154–55, 157, 164 cold, 19, 38 Flour all-purpose, 22 biscuit, 21 bread-making, 22 clear, 20 darker, 20 dry, 135 gluten-free, 151, 197–98 higher extraction, 20 patent, 165 soft pastry-type, 22 strong, 21–22, 61, 165 Flour Comparison Worldwide, 2, 20 Flour specification sheet, separate, 20 Flour types, 10, 20–21, 45 Fold Page | 307

book, 15, 18, 47, 64, 69, 94–95, 175 fold/Letter, 115, 210 half, 18, 51–52 simple, 97 single, 15 Folding sequences, 79, 98, 196 Folds and types of folds, 15 Food for yeast development and stability, 24 Forest Fruits Cube Bicolor, 8, 245 Formation, keeping ice crystal, 281 Frangipane Filling, 7, 182 Freezer burn, 96, 279 Fresh yeast, 2, 22–23, 45 Friction factor calculations, 71 Frozen crème pâtissière rounds, 267, 270 Frozen pastry, 288 pre-proofed, 279 Frozen pastry manufacture, 280 Fruit Jelly Recipes, 9, 268 Fruit purée, 266, 268 G Galette, 7, 57, 167, 180–81, 183–84 Galette Pastry, 7, 184 Ganache recipes, 8, 248, 250, 252 Gel Stage, 200, 202, 205, 207 GF croissant recipe, 202 GF pastry, 204 Glazing, 112, 115, 118, 222–23, 227, 267, 270, 272 Gluten-Free Cranberry Custard Coconut Twists, 7 Gluten-Free Cranberry Custard Coconut Twists3-3, 206 Gluten-Free Croissant Recipe3-4/4-33, 199 Gluten Free Croissant shaping, 300 Gluten-Free Flour Recipe, 198 Gluten-free pastry, 197–98 Gluten-Free products, 196 Green Bicolor Pineapple Pinwheel 3-4-3, 9, 269 Green Bicolor Raspberry Jelly 3-4-3, 8, 265 H Hard butter, 25, 27–28

Heat, 28, 33–35, 38–43, 48, 183–84, 258, 273 I Ice blankets, 19, 46–48, 93, 95, 168, 175, 279 Improvers, 9, 278, 280, 283 Incorporating trimmings, 9, 289 Industrial refrigerators, 46 Instagram, 1, 68, 165, 208, 295, 306 Instant yeast, 2, 23 Intermediate proof, 278 Inverse, 8, 57, 213 Inverse butter method, 16 Inverse Croissant, 300 Inverse Croissant Recipe5-4-3, 218 Inverse pastry, 52, 56–57, 180–81 Ireland, represented, 13 Italy, 21, 109 J Jam, 233, 238, 247, 257, 280 Japan Kneader Co, 67–68, 300 Jimmy Griffin, 11, 13–14, 52, 71, 208, 306 JP McMahon, 148 K Kipfel, 285, 302 L LABS (Lactic Acid Bacteria), 150, 155 Lactobacilli, 152 Lactobacillus suborder, 26 Lafayette Grand Café, 249 Laminated pastry, 16–18, 23, 27–28, 49, 58– 59, 122, 165, 299, 306 Lamination butter, 22, 25, 27, 31, 72–73, 180–81, 290–91 Lamination process, 28, 44, 54, 57, 135, 196, 208 Leftovers, 138, 172 Lesaffre company, 279 Lescure, 3, 24–25 Level of trimmings, 289, 292–95 Levels, reduced sugar, 275 Lock-in-3, 156 Page | 308

Lock-in 3 assembly, 184 Lock-in methods, 58 Lock in process, 299 Lock in process of dough and butter, 299 M Making frozen crème pâtissière pieces for viennoiserie, 257 Malt syrup, 24 Margarine, 73, 285, 287 Master’s Degree, 119 Maths, 44, 51, 106, 238 Mechanical aeration, 58, 79, 166–67 Melt and leak, 39 Members, group, 295 Milk powder, 65, 208, 220 Milling process, 19–20, 45 Mince pies, 7, 190 Mixer types, 32, 36 Mixing cocoa powder, 109 Mixing machines, 31 Molecular Gastronomy, 43, 302 Molten glucose, 303 Mozzarella cheese, 275 N Nappage, 131, 207, 259, 264 Non-dairy recipes for eggwash, 126 Non-diastatic, 73 Nutella Cruffin Style Pastry, 8 Nutella Cruffin Style Pastry3-4-3, 246 O Once Baked Almond Croissant, 138 Online, 301–4 Online resources, 15, 299 Open honeycomb structure, 24 Oven temperature, 41–42, 280 Oven types, 3, 19, 40, 42, 71, 127 Over-lamination, 58, 74 Overnight fermentation, 64–65, 167, 279 P Pain Raisin, 7, 191 Pain Suisse, 108, 140 Paris 2016, 11

Paste and powder colours, 110 Pastry sheeted, 18, 101, 106–7, 265, 269, 290, 297 vegan, 208 vegan/vegetarian, 126 Pastry block, rotate, 105 Pastry flour, 21, 139 Pastry Making Systems, 58 Pastry sheet, 60–61, 63, 68, 70, 170, 205, 207 Pâte fermentée, 74, 108, 295 Percentages, average baker’s, 72 Pere Noelle Rouge, 110 Permitted improvers, 278 Pinwheel shape, 269 Plasticity qualities, 22 Plasticizing Butter, 300 Portuguese custard tarts, 188 Powder colours, 110 Precision sheeting, 108 Preferment & Sourdough, 7, 162 Preparation/plasticizing butter, 10 Pre-proofed croissants, frozen, 279 Pre-proofed frozen pastries, 279 Preservation, 288 Preventing shrinkage, 62 Process bicolor, 244 freezing, 279, 282 Processing Notes Recap, 6, 105 Process Method 3-3-3, 81, 121, 190 Process Method 3-3-3-3, 87 Process Method 3-4-3, 159, 161, 163, 193, 195, 217, 219, 270, 272 Process Method 3-4, 124, 200, 202, 205, 207 Process Method 3-4-4, 212, 215, 234, 237, 240, 242, 244, 262, 264 Process Method 3-4-4/4, 169, 175, 177, 179 Process Method 5-4-3, 89, 94, 133 Process of twin lamination, 120 Produce brioche, 23 Production, bicolor, 200, 202, 205, 207 Proof stage, 192, 277, 279 Proof temperature, 39, 258 Proof time, 19, 127, 192 Page | 309

insufficient, 48 Proteins, 19, 22, 30, 44, 73, 213 Psyllium husk, 197, 200, 202, 205, 207 Puff pastry and Danish pastry, 302 Puff Pastry Hand Lamination Bible, 300 Q Quiche, 187–88 Quick Puff Pastry Recipe 3-3, 7, 186 R Raspberry Brioche Sablée, 8, 224 Raspberry Jelly Pieces, 8, 265 Red and Green doughs, 117 Red dough, 115, 149, 244 Red rum and brush, 139 Reduction rolling principle, 66 Reduction sheeting and folding, 59–60 Refrigerator overnight, 34, 49, 156, 184, 191, 273 Relative humidity (RH), 10, 19, 127, 192, 258, 279 Resistance, elastic, 61, 108 Rondo, 66, 303 Rotate Pastry, 4, 61 RS101 Manual Sheeter, 4, 67 Rye, 44, 151, 155 S Salt, 24, 26, 28, 45, 73, 127–28, 134–35, 188, 287 Salted caramel, black, 248 Same-day fermentation method, 163, 200, 202, 205, 207 Sandwich method, 59, 63, 68, 90–91, 102, 191 Sausage rolls, 7, 174, 176, 179, 187–88 Savoury Puff Paste 3-4-4, 7, 174 Savoury Puff Pastry, 7 Seeds, 235, 257–58 Shelf life, 26, 28, 128, 189, 220, 283, 287 Singapore, 11, 13, 197, 208, 238 Size ratios, cutting, 126 Skinning, 39–40, 65, 90, 95, 97 Sourdough, 7, 13, 38, 150–55, 157, 159–60, 164–65, 217

Sourdough Croissant, 7, 150, 158–59 Sourdough croissant production, 150, 157 Sourdough culture, 26 Sourdough fermentation, 150 Sourdough Liquid, 159 Spread ability, 27 Starter, 150, 152–56 Strong bakers Soft, 21 Sugar Glaze for Galette Pastry, 7, 184 Suprême 3-4-3, 251 Suprême-Style Pastry, 249 T T-45 flours, 19, 72 T-45 Gruau Rouge, 22 T-55, 20, 22, 72 T-65, 22 T-150, 19 T-550 flour, 20 Techniques, 6, 11, 17–18, 57, 65, 140, 142 Temperature controls, 18, 72, 283 Tension, elastic, 29, 59, 63, 69–70, 89–90, 92 Terms, 2, 10, 15, 20, 23, 282, 286 Touching points, 51, 54, 57, 91–92, 99, 106, 298 subtracting Butter, 57 Touching points compress, 92 Tropical Storm, 8, 263 Twin arm mixer, 33, 36 Type 45, 19 Type 55, 19 Type 65, 19 Type 80, 19 Type 110, 19 Type 150, 19 U Under-baking, 295 Under-lamination, 58 Understanding Core Temperature, 3, 48 Understanding flour types, 303 Universal Numbering System, 3, 50–51, 53, 56 V Page | 310

Vegan Chocolatine 3-4-4, 212 Vegan Croissant 3-4-3, 210 Vegan Croissant Pastry, 8, 208 Vegetarían/Vegan Chocolatine, 8, 211 Vegetarian/Vegan Croissant, 8 Vegetarian/Vegan Croissant Using Flora Plant Butter, 209 Veggie Rolls, 7, 178–79 Viennoiserie, 7, 9, 13, 22–23, 279, 283, 299, 301 Viennoiserie candidate Peter Yuen, 47 W Wastage, 101, 282, 290, 299 Waste pastry trimmings, 74 Waste/trimmings, 289 Weinheim, 123 Wholemeal flour, 21, 151, 154–55 Windowpane, 32, 36, 222–23, 225 Work, cryogenics, 282 Y Yeast baker’s, 23 dry, 23 mature, 290 quick-acting, 23 special, 23, 280–81 special osmotolerant, 23 wild, 151–52, 155–56 Yeast and liquid sourdough, 38 Yeast fermentation, 79, 167 Yeast types, 71

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Dear Reader, I want to thank you for purchasing my latest book, The Art of Lamination II. Mastering the Art and Craft of Laminated Pastry. I hope you enjoyed the book's information and methods and that it will assist you in making great Croissants and laminated pastry. If you have any questions you did not have answered in my book, connect, and message me to my Instagram account @jimmyg51. I regularly update my YouTube channel with product and techniques. Finally, I set up a FaceBook group page, The Art of Lamination and Laminated Pastry with Jimmy Griffin, which will regularly be updated with posts and information. I can also be contacted on this page. Kind regards, Jimmy Griffin. Website: http://jimmyg.ie YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/c/JimmyGriffinbaking/ Instagram: @jimmyg51 Group Page Link : https://www.facebook.com/groups/1666415577044008 Email: [email protected]

Other Books by the Author: 1. The Art of Lamination 2. El Arte del Laminado (Spanish translation of book 1) 3. The Global Master Bakers Cookbook 4.Family Secrets The Recipes Part 1 1876 – 2019 5. Panettone The King of Bread

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