Textiles, Clothing and Design 9781846636554, 9781846636547

Citation preview

ijcst cover (i).qxd

21/11/2007

10:10

Page 1

ISSN 0955-6222

Volume 19 Number 6 2007

International Journal of

Clothing Science and Technology International textile clothing research register Editor-in-Chief: George K. Stylios

www.emeraldinsight.com

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology

ISSN 0955-6222 Volume 19 Number 6 2007

International textile and clothing research register Editor

George K. Stylios

Access this journal online _________________________

2

Editorial advisory board __________________________

3

Editorial _________________________________________

4

In memoriam _____________________________________

6

Research register _________________________________

8

Research index by institution______________________

110

Research index by country ________________________

111

Research index by subject_________________________

112

Research index by principal investigator ___________

114

Awards for Excellence ____________________________

115

Access this journal electronically The current and past volumes of this journal are available at:

www.emeraldinsight.com/0955-6222.htm You can also search more than 150 additional Emerald journals in Emerald Fulltext (www.emeraldinsight.com) See page following contents for full details of what your access includes.

CONTENTS

www.emeraldinsight.com/ijcst.htm As a subscriber to this journal, you can benefit from instant, electronic access to this title via Emerald Fulltext. Your access includes a variety of features that increase the value of your journal subscription.

How to access this journal electronically

To benefit from electronic access to this journal, please contact [email protected] A set of login details will then be provided to you. Should you wish to access via IP, please provide these details in your e-mail. Once registration is completed, your institution will have instant access to all articles through the journal's Table of Contents page at www.emeraldinsight.com/0955-6222.htm More information about the journal is also available at www.emeraldinsight.com/ ijcst.htm Our liberal institution-wide licence allows everyone within your institution to access your journal electronically, making your subscription more cost-effective. Our web site has been designed to provide you with a comprehensive, simple system that needs only minimum administration. Access is available via IP authentication or username and password. Emerald online training services Visit www.emeraldinsight.com/training and take an Emerald online tour to help you get the most from your subscription.

Key features of Emerald electronic journals Automatic permission to make up to 25 copies of individual articles This facility can be used for training purposes, course notes, seminars etc. This only applies to articles of which Emerald owns copyright. For further details visit www.emeraldinsight.com/ copyright Online publishing and archiving As well as current volumes of the journal, you can also gain access to past volumes on the internet via Emerald Fulltext. You can browse or search these databases for relevant articles. Non-article content Material in our journals such as product information, industry trends, company news, conferences, etc. is available online and can be accessed by users. Reference linking Direct links from the journal article references to abstracts of the most influential articles cited. Where possible, this link is to the full text of the article. E-mail an article Allows users to e-mail links to relevant and interesting articles to another computer for later use, reference or printing purposes. Structured abstracts Emerald structured abstracts provide consistent, clear and informative summaries of the content of the articles, allowing faster evaluation of papers.

Additional complimentary services available

Your access includes a variety of features that add to the functionality and value of your journal subscription: Xtra resources and collections When you register your journal subscription online, you will gain access to Xtra resources for Librarians, Faculty, Authors, Researchers, Deans and Managers. In addition you can access Emerald Collections, which include case studies, book reviews, guru interviews and literature reviews. E-mail alert services These services allow you to be kept up to date with the latest additions to the journal via e-mail, as soon as new material enters the database. Further information about the services available can be found at www.emeraldinsight.com/alerts Emerald Research Connections An online meeting place for the research community where researchers present their own work and interests and seek other researchers for future projects. Register yourself or search our database of researchers at www.emeraldinsight.com/ connections

Choice of access

Electronic access to this journal is available via a number of channels. Our web site www.emeraldinsight.com is the recommended means of electronic access, as it provides fully searchable and value added access to the complete content of the journal. However, you can also access and search the article content of this journal through the following journal delivery services: EBSCOHost Electronic Journals Service ejournals.ebsco.com Informatics J-Gate www.j-gate.informindia.co.in Ingenta www.ingenta.com Minerva Electronic Online Services www.minerva.at OCLC FirstSearch www.oclc.org/firstsearch SilverLinker www.ovid.com SwetsWise www.swetswise.com

Emerald Customer Support

For customer support and technical help contact: E-mail [email protected] Web www.emeraldinsight.com/customercharter Tel +44 (0) 1274 785278 Fax +44 (0) 1274 785201

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Professor Mario De Araujo Minho University, Portugal Professor H.J. Barndt Philadelphia College of Textiles & Science, Philadelphia, USA Professor Dexiu Fan China Textile University, Shanghai, China Professor Carl A. Lawrence University of Leeds, Leeds, UK Professor Gerald A.V. Leaf Heriot-Watt University (Hon), UK Professor P. Grosberg Shankar College of Textile Technology and Fashion, Israel Professor Trevor J. Little North Carolina State University, USA

Professor David Lloyd University of Bradford, Bradford, UK Professor Masako Niwa Nara Women’s University, Nara, Japan Professor Issac Porat School of Textiles, UMIST, UK

Editorial advisory board

3

Professor Ron Postle The University of New South Wales, Australia Professor Rosham Shishoo Swedish Institute for Fibre and Polymer Research, Mo¨lndal, Sweden Professor Paul Taylor University of Newcastle, Newcastle upon Tyne, UK Professor Witold Zurek Ło´dz´ Technical University, Poland

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Vol. 19 No. 6, 2007 p. 3 # Emerald Group Publishing Limited 0955-6222

IJCST 19,6

4

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Vol. 19 No. 6, 2007 pp. 4-5 Emerald Group Publishing Limited 0955-6222

Editorial ITCRR – championing the research efforts of the community The international textile and clothing research register (ITCRR) is in its 13th year of publishing the research efforts of our community. It provides a breadth of activity in the field of textile and clothing research and it encourages participation and dissemination to those working in this discipline and further afield. Again as you will see in this new edition, textile and clothing research and practice is increasing in volume, in quality and in diversity – all good news for all of us involved in it. Research, development and innovation can, without doubt, give us more wisdom, enable our industries to become more competitive, and contribute to our quality of life. I believe that registering research projects will provide the due credit to originators of the research and contribute much more to the future development of this field. Groups of expertise can be identified in this manner, repetition and re-invention can be avoided leading to best utilisation of time and funding for faster and better directed research in the international arena. Important since globalisation is on everybody’s agenda. The ITCRR was set up with all these things in mind. Textiles and clothing originate from the physiological need to protect ourselves from the environment. This has made necessary the art of hand knitting and weaving, and cut and sew processes which have been evolving for many centuries. Although, the original need for clothing has somewhat changed, the mechanisation of this process started after the industrial revolution and has continued this century with automation developments on a massive scale. If you consider the upstream part of the whole textile and clothing production chain, yarn-making is the most highly automated area, followed by fabric, with high speed knitting and weaving machines. The downstream part of garment making, however, still remains probably the less developed connection in this chain; one that no doubt many of us have our eyes on as the candidate for development into the new century. With massive computerisation over the last 20 years, logistics and sales have also changed dramatically from pen and paper to electronic data interchange and electronic point of sale. New challenges are already upon us with nanotextiles, nanofibres, nanocoatings with multifunctional and smart textiles and clothing, and with wearable electronics. A special issue on smart textiles and clothing is at an advanced stage of development and we will continue to welcome contributions from textile and clothing aesthetics, design and fashion highlighting our belief that design and technology go hand to hand. We predict that more exciting projects will come from this synergy. Consistent and extensive research and development in textile and clothing design and science and technology underpin all these developments by the international research community whether in educational establishments, in research trade organisations, or in companies. IJCST was been set up 19 years ago as a platform for the promotion of scientific and technical research at an international level. The manufacture of clothing in particular needs to change to more technologically advanced forms of manufacturing and retailing – IJCST continues to support the community in these and other efforts. q Professor George K. Stylios.

The journal, now fully indexed in SCI, continues with its authoritative style to accredit original technical research and by adhering to our refereeing processes however difficult these may prove at times. IJCST will be instrumental in continuing to support conferences and meetings from around the world in its effort to promote the science and technology of clothing. The 2007 volume saw the publication of a double issue from “3rd International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference” Dubrovnik, October 2006. I finally praise the enthusiasm of our research community and those authors that have made IJCST an invaluable resource to all involved with textiles and clothing. I thank our editorial board for their continuous support and our colleagues who have acted in a refereeing capacity and have given us their free time and expertise to progress our research efforts. I take the liberty of listing some of those names below (apologies in advance if anyone has accidentally been omitted from this list): . Professor Paul Taylor, University of Newcastle . Professor Haruki Imaoka, Nara Women’s University . Professor Jachym Novak, Vysoka Skola Sronjni a Tectilffi . Professor Isaac Porat, UMIST . Professor Ron Postle, The University of New South Wales . Dr Taoruan Wan, University of Bradford . Professor David Lloyd, University of Bradford . Professor G.A.V. Leaf, Heriot-Watt University . Dr David Brook, University of Leeds . Dr Jaffer Amirbayat, UMIST . Dr David Tyler, Manchester Metropolitan University . Professor Jintu Fan, Hong Kong Polytechnic University . Dr Jelka Gersak, University of Maribor . Dr Hua Lin, Heriot Watt University . Dr Sharon Lam Po Tang, Heriot Watt University . Dr Lisa McIntyre, Heriot Watt University . Dr D Sun, Heriot Watt University Thank you all subscribers, authors, editorial board members, referees, publishing team, colleagues, students for your support and especially Dr S Lam Po Tang for her contribution. For further information, please contact: Heriot-Watt University, School of Textiles, Netherdale, Galashiels, Selkirkshire, TD1 3HF, Scotland, UK. E-mail: [email protected]; [email protected] George K. Stylios Editor-in-Chief

Editorial

5

IJCST 19,6

In memoriam Professor Blazˇ KNEZ, PhD 1928-2007

6

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Vol. 19 No. 6, 2007 pp. 6-7 q Emerald Group Publishing Limited 0955-6222

Professor Blazˇ Knez, PhD, from the Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Croatia, a long-time member of the International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Editorial Advisory Board, sadly died on 17 June 2007 after a long fight with illness. He was 79. Born in Libelicˇe, Slovenia in 1928 Professor Knez gained his bachelor’s degree at the Polytechnic of Belgrade and continued his graduate education at the Faculty of Technology and Metallurgy in Belgrade, graduating in 1968. From 1952 to 1959 he attended numerous specialisation courses in Germany and the USA and this rich experience enabled him to become chief engineer of the biggest Yugoslav clothing factories (BEKO Belgrade and Kamensko, Zagreb). After experience in industrial practice he moved into the education of experts in all the branches of garment technology and engineering. From 1973 to 1976 he was a Professor and Dean of the Professional College of Garment Technology in Zagreb, and from 1977 to retirement in 1990 a Professor at the Faculty of Technology and the Director of the Institute of Textile and Clothing, a part of that Faculty. He obtained his PhD from the Faculty of Technology, University of Zagreb, Croatia in 1980. To promote higher education in the field of garment engineering together with his collaborators he founded the Department of Clothing Technology and Engineering. This facility has two research laboratories and is used as a centre for the university education of experts in garment technology in Croatia. He was the supervisor on over 400 graduate theses, 11 master’s theses and four PhD theses at the Faculty including the first PhD theses in garment engineering in Croatia. Professor Knez was the author of over 130 original scientific papers and took part in 43 international conferences with his contributions. It should be noted that his rich practical experience enabled him to lead 37 technological projects for founding garment manufacturing plants all over Croatia. As an educator, he published six university textbooks in the field and was the Chief Researcher of six scientific research projects funded by the Croatian Government. Professor Knez actively participated in the workings of scientific research magazines, and was a member of the editorial boards of the Tekstilna Industrija (Belgrade), Tekstil (Zagreb) and International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology (Bradford, UK). He was a member of professional associations in the field, as a board member mostly, and was the President of the organisation committees of four scientific/professional conferences. He was also a guest lecturer at the universities of Budapest, Lodz, Sofia and Moscow. His activity did not stop with his retirement – he was chief researcher of research projects and took part in constructing modern curricula for university courses in garment engineering.

The work and efforts by Professor Knez have significantly contributed to the development of textile and garment university courses in Croatia, as well as to shaping the profession and scientific field in Croatia and the whole of former Yugoslavia. His public lectures, projects on new garment manufacturing plants and his other work contributed immensely to the development of textile and garment industries in Croatia, while his participation in foreign publications and conferences contributed to the affirmation of garment engineering globally. He never hesitated to transfer his accomplishments and rich experience to generations of his students who are today top managers of garment manufacturers, university teachers and renowned experts not only in Croatia but also further afield. George K. Stylios Editor-in-Chief

In memoriam

7

Research register

IJCST 19,6

Athens, Greece 8

TEI Piraeus, P. Ralli & Thivon 250, GR-12244 Athens, Greece; Tel: +30 210 5381224; Fax: +30 210 5450965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Lect. Savvas Vassiliadis, Prof. Christos Kotsios, Prof. Anthony Primentas Research Staff: Prof. Thanos Peppas, Argyro Kallivretaki

Strengthening the University-Industry Links in Uzbekistan Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

TechMinho (P), Logotech S.A. (GR) Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry (UZ), Namangan Engineering and Economic Institute (UZ) Project start date: 1 September 2005 Project end date: 31 August 2008 Project budget: e300,000 Source of support: European Commission Keywords: Industial liaison office, distance learning During the three years long project the situation of the University – Industry links in Uzbekistan will be analysed. In parallel the need of the distance learning will be investigated taking in acount the local conditions. After the first definition phase, the project foresees the development of structures serving the University – Industry links, like the liaison offices in the Universities and related actions. The distance learning activities will result in the operation of the necessary infrastructure and the creation of many modules for use between the Universities and the Industries.

Project aims and objectives The project aim is to analyse the current conditions in Uzbekistan and to develop structures and materials related to the strengthening of the university – Industry links and distance learing courses. The objective is to enhance the interaction between universiteis and industries using modern technological tools and methods.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) Establishment of structures supporting the university – industry links in Uzbekistan and development of distance learning courses. Publications Not available

Bolton, UK University of Bolton, Centre for Materials Research and Innovation, University of Bolton, Deane Road, Bolton BL3 5AB, UK; Tel: +44 1204 903559; Fax: +44 1204 399074; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Dr S. Rajendran, Principal Investigator, Prof. S.C. Anand, Co-investigator Research Staff: Dr Alister Rigby

Design and Development of Novel Compression Therapy Regimes for the Treatment of Venous Leg Ulcers Other Partners: Academic None

Industrial Vernon-Carus Ltd, Rossendale Combining Company Ltd Project end date: 23 October 2008

Project start date: 24 October 2005 Project budget: £152,142 Source of support: EPSRC Keywords: Compression therapy, Leg ulcers, Bandages

Venous leg ulcers are the most common type of ulcers and their prevalence increases with age. In the UK alone about 1 per cent of the adult population suffers from active ulceration during their life time. The total cost to the National Health Service in the UK for venous leg ulcers treatment is about 650 million per annum, which is 1-2 per cent of the total healthcare expenditure. Costs per patient have recently been estimated to be between £1,200 and £1,400. Venous leg ulcers are chronic and there is no medication or surgery to cure the disease other than the compression therapy. A sustained graduated compression mainly enhances the flow of blood back to the heart, improves the functioning of valves and calf muscle pumps, reduces oedema and prevents the swelling of veins. In the UK four layer bandaging system is widely used whilst in Europe and Australia the non-elastic two layer short stretch bandage regime is the standard treatment. Both the two layer and four layer systems require padding bandage that is applied next to the skin and underneath the short stretch or compression bandages. It is generally agreed by the clinicians that four layer bandages are too bulky for patients and the cost involved is high. A wide range of compression bandages is available in the Drug Tariff but each of them has different structure and properties and this influences the variation in performance and properties of bandages. The research carried out at the University of Bolton showed that there are significant variations in properties of commercial padding bandages, more importantly the commercial bandages did not distribute the pressure evenly at the ankle as well as the calf region. When pressure is applied using compression bandages, the structure of the nonwoven padding bandages collapsed and the bandages could not impart cushioning effect to the limb. In view of the above mentioned limitations and problems, it is vital that research and development

Research register

9

IJCST 19,6

10

work should be carried out to design, develop and characterise novel single layer bandages that would effectively fulfil the requirements of both padding and compression bandages. It is recognised that spacer is the right technology to produce novel compression bandages that meet the prerequisites of both ideal padding and compression bandages. In three-dimensional (3D) spacer fabrics, two separate fabric layers are combined with an inner spacer yarn or yarns using either warp knitting or weft knitting route. It is possible to produce low modulus spacer fabrics by making use of elastic yarns. Elastic compression could be achieved by altering the structures. It should be mentioned that 3D structure allows greater control over elasticity and these structures can be engineered to be uni-directional, bi-directional and multi-directional. Uni-directional elasticity is one of the desired properties for compression bandages. The three-dimensional nature of spacer fabrics makes an ideal application next to the skin because they have desirable properties that are ideal for the human body. 3D fabrics are soft, have good resilience that provides cushioning effect to the body, breathable, ability to control heat and moisture transfer. For venous leg ulcer applications, such attributes together with improved elasticity and recovery promote faster healing.

Project aims and objectives .

To study in-depth the current practices and problems in managing venous leg ulcers.

.

To test and characterise the currently available commercial bandaging systems.

.

To design and develop single layer bandage that would replace the conventional multiplayer padding and compression bandages using warp knitting technology. To design and develop single layer bandage that would replace the conventional multiplayer padding and compression bandages using weft knitting technology. To study the feasibility of using environmentally and human skin friendly biodegradable fibres in designing the single layer bandage. To test and characterise the properties of novel compression bandages and bandaging regimes. To mathematically model and verify the performance and properties of the developed structures.

.

.

.

.

.

To quantify, predict and optimise the characteristics of the novel compression therapy regimes.

Publication “Venous Leg Ulcer Treatment and Practice”, submitted to Journal of Wound Care.

Bucharest, Romania The Research Development National Institute for Textile and Leather, Lucretiu Patrascanu Street, No. 16, sector 3, 030508; Tel: 004-021-3404928; Fax: 004-021-3405515; E-mail: [email protected]

Principal Investigator(s): 289 Research Staff: 70

Research register

ITA TEXCONF Institutional construction development Project start date: 3 October 2006 Project end date: 30 November 2007 Project budget: 381 819 EURO Source of support: Public funds and own cofinancing Keywords: Technological transfer, Textile and garment industry, Innovative products, Technologies, Research results Textile field in Romania is an important sector within national economy: .

employing an important workforce, mainly female;

.

contributing to social stability through its representation across all the areas in the;

.

having a significant share in national economy export; and

.

contributing with a positive balance to foreign trade.

In Romania, structure of the enterprises in the textile field, in terms of employees’ number, presents as follows: total number of enterprises in the textile field: over 8,000. As easily seen above the number of textile SMEs represents around 96 per cent of the total number of enterprises in Romania. The Romanian Government is aware and appreciates the importance of these companies. The policy in the field of SMEs in Romania has become a part of the Regional Development Policy, due to the great role of the SMEs – “locomotives” of a sustainable economic growth, creating jobs and having an important role in fighting the unemployment. At present, the majority of Romanian enterprises in the textile field are not sufficiently prepared for responding to the opportunities and challenges that the accession to enlarged knowledge-based EU supposes. The innovation policy has as center the research-industry relation. Research creates markets, and industry’s needs generate new researches. ITA TEXCONF is created with the purpose of valorizing the results of technological research and development and, especially for the realization of technological transfer to SMEs. The institutional construction of a technologic and business incubator is a complex theme, this character being determined by the multitude of activities that must be carried out for acquisitions consisting of the endowing with the equipment necessary for carrying out the activity specific for the incubator centre, in order to provide a study to select the SMEs team which are going to be incubed. Relations between research and industry have to be dealt with based on a coherent, long term and comprehensive policy, which should incorporate as core element researchindustry connection through: .

marketing research results;

.

promotion of start-ups by researchers in the new technologies field;

.

creation of conditions favoring activities and partnerships transfer between research and industry;

11

IJCST 19,6

12

.

fostering the enterprises in creating and developing innovative competences;

.

launching joint research programs, based on direct collaboration between research and industry;

.

enhancing the access to information regarding internal and foreign networks of opportunities, informing sources, knowledge and technologies;

.

realization of connections between portals of national and International information; and

.

fostering SMEs participation in research networks and technologies markets, directly or through multi-level innovative networks.

Project aims and objectives Aims: ITA TEXCONF is an entity from the TT infrastructure for the textile-garment field, of which activity is mainly directed towards: facilitating the initiation and development of new innovative private enterprises based on advanced technology; stimulation of innovation and technologic transfer for the purpose of introducing the research results in the economic circuit, the results being turned into new or improved products, processes and services. Short term objectives: Institutional construction; textile-garment field SMEs incubation, logistics service, supplying; training and improving experts in technologic transfer, intellectual property ensuring, entrepreneurship, human resources involved in innovative actions; partnership creating, developing groups of interest for transferring innovative products/technologies towards the industry, especially towards SMEs; ITA TEXCONF integrating into the National Network of Innovation and Technologic Transfer (RENITT). Long term objectives: Know-how transfer between INCDTP and SMEs; increasing the degree of turning into good account the research results from the textile field and the patents obtained by INCDTP, by disseminating the results, by mediating technologic transfers, license selling, etc.; stimulating the financing of the research projects; creating data bases in the textile field; integrating the Romanian innovative structures into EU.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) ITA TEXCONF institutional construction of the technologic and business incubator Specialists trained in the field of technological transfer, intellectual property, entrepreneurship, enterprise evaluation. ITA TEXCONF will aim at businesses in the textile field by: . .

finding commercial partners especially in the field of SMEs; developing the interest groups in the field;

.

determining R&D Units and Universities interest to offer their technical services to the SMEs;

.

interchanging partner ideas with these enterprises;

.

aiming to establish international collaborations through Technology Transfer; and

.

encouraging the SMEs to become exporters.

Publications Leaflets of presenting and disseminating of the project, distributed with the occasion of participating to the .

Open forum for innovation and technological transfer, the 6th edition, Bucharest, Romania, 20-21.03.2007.

.

International Industrial Fair HANOVVER -MESSE, Germany, 16-20.04.2007.

.

The National Fair of Clothing-Footwear Manufacturers TINIMTEX Mamaia, Romania, 16-20.05.2007.

.

The European Reseach and Innovation Fair, Paris, France, 07 -09.06.2007.

.

3rd INSME Association General Assembly – “Reinvigorating our global Partnership for Innovation”, Rome, Italy, 12 -13.07.2007.

We have to highlight that INCDTP- ITA TEXCONF is an observer member within INSME – International Network for SMEs, which is an international non profit association with headquarters in Italy, having as purpose cross-national cooperation between partners in the public and private sector in the field of innovation and technology transfer (TT) to Small and Medium Enterprises. The INSME Association includes 77 Members: 29 governmental bodies, 8 International Organizations, 8 International NGOs and representatives of 32 networks and intermediaries acting in the field of innovation and technology transfer to SMEs.

Budapest, Hungary Budapest University of Technology and Economics, Budapest XI. Mu˝egyetem rkp. 3, Postal A., H-1521 Budapest, Hungary. Tel: +36-1463-1376; Fax: +36-1-463-1376; E-mail: [email protected] Keywords: Cellulose, Cotton, Hemp, Swelling, Chemical modification, Carboxymethylcellulose, Functional textile, Antimicrobial textile, Textile for hospital use

Modification of cellulose fiber for extension of its application Department or Laboratory: Department of Plastics and Rubber Technology, Department of Physical Chemistry, Department of Chemical Technology Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Judit Borsa Other Partners: Academic Johan Be´la National Center for Epidemiology, Inst. for Isotops and Surface Chemistry of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences, Johannes Kepler University, Linz, Austria, Dr Habil. Ildiko Tanczos

Industrial None

Research register

13

IJCST 19,6

Source of support: Hungarian National Research Fund (OTKA), Governmental Fund (GVOP) Project start date: 1 January 2005 Project end date: 31 December 2008 Cellulosic fibers are modified by physical and chemical methods:

14

.

Interaction of cotton cellulose with quaternary ammonium hydroxide (tetramethylammonium hydroxide) is studied in comparison with sodium hydroxide.

.

Cotton fiber is modified by slight carboxymethylation. Effect of technology parameters on the properties of the modified fiber, theoretical aspects of modification and some possible application of modified fiber (e.g. antibacterial textile for hospital use) are investigated. Delignification and refinement of various kinds of Hungarian hemp are studied.

.

Publication Borsa, J., La´za´r, K., La´szlo´, K., “Antibacterial effect of carboxymethylated cotton fiber”, The Fiber Society Spring Conference, StGallen, Switzerland, May 2005.

Budapest, Hungary Budapest University of Technology and Economics, Mu˝egyetem rkp. 3-9., H-1111 Budapest, Hungary; Tel: +36 1 4632495; Fax: +36 1 4631689; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): prof. Dr Ja´nos Somlo´; Dr Marianna Hala´sz; Dr Pe´ter Tama´s; Ga´bor Ambrus; Dr Be´la Bo˝di Research Staff: Dr La´szlo´ Monostori, Dr Petra Aradi, Dr Gyo¨rgy Lipovszki, Dr Kla´ra Zalatnaidr.Judit Barna, Lajos Szabo´, Bertalan To´th, Jekatyerina Kuzmina

RuhaRobot (ClothRobot) Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Budapest University of Technology and Economics, Budapest Tech Rejto˝ Sa´ndor Faculty of Light Industry, Institute of Leather, Textile and Garment Technology

MAGA Informatics Ltd., National Osteoporosis Foundation

Project start date: 1 January 2005 Project budget: e327600

Project end date: 31 December 2007

Source of support: National Development Plan – Structural Funds and the Cohesion Fund EU Keywords: 3D dress design, Model of human body, Visual robot, Wearing simulation, 3D drape tester There is a 3D dress designing system in the focus of the project. A parameterized body model is evaluated. The model is appropriate not only for the symmetric and asymmetric body modelling but for motion simulation too. The real sizes of the human body can be defined by a photo based on reduced measuring processes or by robotized 3D scanning using re-engineering. We are developing an integrated traditional scanner and a 6D KUKA robot for scanning the visible and masked body parts. Shape and sizes of clothparts are derived from the geometry of the human body model. Designers modify the model and shape of parts in space. The shape of patterns is calculated by direct laying out. The mechanical model of clothes is a multi mass-point flexible mechanical structure. A virtual mannequin wears the model dress. Draping and texture behaviour is real-time simulated by the mechanical model. There is a newly evaluated drape tester equipment. Tester scans the 3D shape of parts and material properties are defined by the same simulation as used for the virtual mannequin.

Project aims and objectives .

Real 3D Computer aided design for ready made clothes and for handicapped people.

.

Usage of re-engineering technics in body size measuring processes.

.

Development of a visual robot system and application in reg-trade.

.

Material parameter measuring for clothes simulation.

.

Special methods based on material simulation and the newly developed equipment.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

Computer aided 3D dress design system for ready made clothes and handicapped people.

.

3D drape tester equipment.

.

Measuring results.

.

Visual robot system.

Publications Dr Tama´s Pe´ter, Dr Hala´sz Marianna (2003), “3D body modelling in clothing design”, IMCEP 2003, 4th International Conference, 9-11. Oktober, Maribor, Slovenia, ISBN 86-435-0575-7, pp. 64-8. L. Kokas Palicska; J. Gersak; M. Hala´sz, (2005) “The impact of fabric structure and finishing on the drape behavior of textiles”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 891-7. P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz; J. Gra¨ff (2005), “3D dress design”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 436-1.

Research register

15

IJCST 19,6

16

J. Kuzmina; P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz, Gy. Gro´f (2005), “Image-based cloth capture and cloth simulation used for estimation cloth draping parameters”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 904-9. L. Szabo´; M. Hala´sz (2005), “Automatic determination of body surface data”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 715-20. L. Kokas Palicska; M. Hala´sz (2005), “Analysing of draping properties of textiles”, at IN-TECH-ED’05, 5th International Conference, 8-9 September, Budapest, ISBN 963 9397 06 7, pp. 133-8. O. Nagy Szabo´; P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz, (2005) “Garment construction with a 3 dimension designing system”, at IN-TECH-ED’05, 5th International Conference, 8-9 September, Budapest, ISBN 963 9397 06 7, pp. 248-357. J. Kuzmina; P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz; Gy. Gro´f (2005), “Image-based cloth capture and cloth simulation used for estimation cloth draping parameters”, paper presented at IN-TECH-ED’05, 5th International Conference, 8-9. September, Budapest, ISBN 963 9397 06 7, pp. 358-65.

Budapest, Hungary Budapest University of Technology and Economics, Department of Polymer Engineering, 9 Muegyetem rkp. Budapest H-1111 Hungary; Tel: 36-1-463-1529; Fax: 36-1-463-1527; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): La´szlo´ M. Vas Research Staff: Pe´ter Tama´s, Pe´ter Nagy, Veronika Nagy, Zsolt Ra´cz, Zolta´n L. Simon, Zolta´n Gombos

Structural and strength modelling and complex testing of fibrous structures and fibre reinforced composites Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None BUTE Department of Information Engineering Project start date: 2005 Project end date: 2008 Project budget: 43000 euro Source of support: Hungarian Scientific Research Fund – OTKA T049069 Keywords: Modelling, Testing, Fiber bundles, Fibrous structures, Reinforcements, Composites Besides the fibers, fiber groups called fiber bundles as intermediate structural elements play an important role in the macro-scale behavior and properties of the fibrous structures such as slivers, rovings, yarns, webs, fleeces, fabrics, and reinforcements of polymeric composites. The Department of Polymer Engineering has dealt with testing textiles and fibrous reinforcing systems using image processing and with the theoretical fundamentals of their computational structural-mechanical modeling essentially for more than one decade. In the framework of some earlier projects (OTKA I/3 821, 1991-1994; OTKA I/5 T7652, 1993-1994) a novel modeling method [1-4] was developed applying the so

called idealized fiber-bundle-cells as structured statistical mechanical model elements to modeling fiber flows such as slivers or fiber bundles to flat bundle test or twisted fiber structures such as filament or spun yarns. In addition, in cooperation with the Research Institute of Technical Physics and Materials Science Budapest some geometrical and mechanical testing techniques [5-8] for measuring the diameter of fibers or yarns and the fiber orientation on webs or yarn surface as well as the local deformation of fabrics during tensile test were elaborated using image processing technology. The idealized fiber-bundle- cells [1,2,12] are statistical because the strength parameters of the fibers (tensile strength, breaking strain, initial tensile stiffness), and the bundle properties of the fiber cells (pretension, order), as well as the parameters for describing the grip of the fibers or fiber chains (slippage load, slippage length) are stochastic variables. From the sub-bundles combined, so called composite bundles or fiber bundle chains can be formed. According to the modeling concept a finite composite fiber bundle or fiber bundle chains or network built up of randomly or deterministicly oriented fibers ungripped or gripped at one or two ends can be the structural-mechanical model of a real textile considered concerning not only the increasing load but the damage process as well [1-4, 12-13, 16-17]. Another research work (OTKA T022077, 1997-1999) extended to the fiber reinforced composites focused on modeling the structure of glass fiber mats and testing the structural-mechanical properties of the one layer glass mat reinforced unsaturated polyester (UP) resin composite sheets. Besides the structural-geometrical model of short fiber structures developed [9-10] a testing method based on image processing was worked out for studying the local deformation and crack propagation of trans-illuminated composite specimens during tensile test. Using the mobile CCD camera image processing system developed in the framework of this project [5-6] the cracks coming into being during the tensile test were detected as fibers or edges and by that the fiber deformation and crack propagation processes could be described numerically by evaluating the fiber orientation histograms recorded [11]. The next project in this topic (OTKA T038220, 2002-2004) aimed mainly at testing and modeling the damage and fracture process of unidirectional carbon fiber reinforced epoxy resin composites during flexural test as well as analyzing the effect of the geometry. According to experiences the modeling method using statistical fiber-bundlecells can be describe the expected value of the bending load in an acceptable way even if the simplest fiber-bundle-cell was used and the breakage of the stretched layers were modeled [12-13]. The fiber-bundle-cells method was also applied to modeling the mechanical behavior of braided carbon fiber reinforced composite tubes subjected to tensile load [15]. Two PhD Theses made use of the results. The current research project (OTKA T049069, 2005-2008) undertook to summarize and complete the results of the structural-mechanical testing and modeling methods and work out some new applications, as well as – in collaboration with the Department of Information Engineering BUTE – develop a software package for modeling and a complex testing method including geometrical and mechanical tests, acoustic measurements and image processing [14,18]. This is the topic of a PhD Thesis and a DSc Thesis.

Research register

17

IJCST 19,6

18

Project aims and objectives The aim of the research is, based on the theory of the fiber flows and fiber bundles as well as the results of experimental and FEM examinations, to develope a modelling method and software suitable for estimating and characterizing statistically the structuralgeometrical and strength properties of different fibrous structures (fiber bundles, slivers, rovings, yarns, fiber mats, and fabrics), unidirectional composites and specimens cut from laminated composite sheets in different directions as well as their damage processes during tensile and flexural tests. On the other hand, it is planned to develope a complex testing and avaluating system based on a universal tensile tester, some CCD camera image processing equipment and an acoustic emission device suitable for studying, analysing the statistical behaviour, the damage process, and the scale effects of single fibers, rovings, fiber reinforced composite specimens. Objectives and tasks: .

Developing image and AE processing aided methods for the complex testing of the strength properties of unidirectional and laminated composites specimens.

.

Experimental and FEM examinations of the relationships between the structural and the strength properties of unidirectional and laminated composite specimens cut in different directions.

.

Developing statistical structural-strength basic models and modelling methods for describing the tensile and flexural strength properties of the unidirectional and laminated composite specimens.

.

Developing some applications of the structural-strength models.

.

Developing a statistical structural-strength modelling software package based on the results obtained above.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) . .

The realized results of the project have been expected as follows: Testing and evaluation methods using image processing

.

Windows based modelling software realized in Delphi Code

.

2-3 papers published in periodicals annually

.

2-3 papers published at conferences annually

.

2-3 MSc Theses annually

.

In the framework of the research three PhD Theses have been elaborated as well as the results have been expected to be used by undergraduate and PhD students for preparing papers, MSc Theses and other PhD Theses.

Publications Earlier publications: 1. Vas, L.M. (1990). “The statistical fiber bundle strength and its application in testing fibers and yarns (in Hungarian)”, Magyar Textiltechnika, Vol. 43 No. 4, pp. 165-85. 2. Vas, L.M. (1992). “Latest results in the tensile test theory of fiber and yarn bundles ordered into plane (in Hungarian)”, Magyar Textiltechnika, Vol. 45 No. 3, pp. 71-5, (5-6), 137-42, (7-8), 187-191.

3. Vas, L.M. and Csa´szi, F. (1993). “Use of composite-bundle theory to predict tensile properties of yarns”, Journal of the Textile Institute, Vol. 84 No. 3, pp. 448-63. 4. Vas, L.M. and Hala´sz, G. (1994). “Modelling the breaking process of twisted fiber bundles and yarns”, Periodica Polytechnica Ser. Mech. Eng., Vol. 38 No. 4, pp. 325-50. 5. Vas L.M., Hala´sz G., Taka´cs M., Eo¨rdo¨gh I.,- Sza´sz K. (1994) “Measurement of yarn diameter and twist angle with image processing system”, Periodica Polytechnica Mech. Eng., Vol. 38 No. 4., pp. 277-96 6. Hala´sz G., Taka´cs M., Vas L.M. (1994) “Image processing system for measuring geometrical properties of fibres and yarns”, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, January/February, pp. 30-33 7. Vas L.M., Hala´sz G. (1994) “Untersuchung der Vera¨nderungen in Fadendiameter und DrehungsWinkel bei der Zug- und Drehbeanspruchung”, Periodica Polytechnica Mech. Eng., Vol. 38 No. 4, pp. 297-324. 8. Vas L.M., Hala´sz G., Nagy P., Eo¨rdo¨gh I., Juha´sz Gy., Sza´sz K. (1997): “Testing the deformation of textile fabrics using image processing system (in Hungarian)”, Magyar Textiltechnika, Vol. 50, 1.sz., pp. 19-25. 9. Vas L.M., Balogh K., Nagy P., and Gaa´l J. (1998): “Structural modeling and testing of Glass Fiber Mats (in Hungarian)”, Magyar Textiltechnika, Vol. 51. (In-Tech-Ed’98 Conference Budapest Oct. 21-22. 1998, special issue) (pp. 67-71). 10. Vas, L.M., Balogh K. (2000) “Testing fiber orientation and its effect on glass mats by using image processing system”, VI. International Conference IMTEX’2000. Lodz, June 5-6, (Zeszty Naukowe No.845. Wlo´kiennictwo No.58.) Proceedings (p 69-78). 11. Vas, L.M. – Balogh, K. (2002) “Investigating damage processes of glass fiber reinforced composites using image processing”, Journal of Macromolecular Sciences Part B – Physics, Vol. B41. Nos. 4/6, pp. 977-989. 12. Vas, L.M. – Ra´cz, Zs. (2004) “Modeling and testing the fracture process of impregnated carbon fiber roving specimens during bending, Part I. Fiber Bundle Model”, Journal of Composite Materials, Vol. 38 No.20, pp. 1757-1785. 13. Vas, L.M., Ra´cz, Zs. – Nagy, P. (2004) “Modeling and testing the fracture process of impregnated carbon fiber roving specimens during bending Part II. Experimental studies”, Journal of Composite Materials, Vol. 38 No.20, pp. 1787-1801. 14. Ra´cz Zs., Simon Z.L., and Vas L.M.: “Analysing the Flexural Strength Properties of Unidirectional Carbon/Epoxy Composites”, COMPTEST 2004, 2nd International Conference on Composites Testing and Model Identification, 21-23 September 2004. University Bristol, UK. (Poster paper, CD)

Publications of the current research: 15. Simon Z. and Vas L.M. (2005): “Relationship between the flexural properties and specimen aspect ratio in laminated composites”, 22nd DANUBIA-ADRIA Symposium on Experimental Methods in Solid Mechanics. Monticelli Terme/Parma, Italy, September 28-October 1. (Poster) 16. Ra´cz Zs. and Vas L.M. (2005): “Relationship between flexural strength and size effects in unidirectional carbon/epoxy”, Composite Interfaces, Vol. 12. pp. 325-39. 17. Nagy V., Vas L.M.: “Testing polyester yarns with overtwisting and estimating the pore sizes (in Hungarian)”, Magyar Textiltechnika, Vol. LVIII. e´vf. Part I: 2005/1. 1-3, Part II: 2005/2. 26-27. 18. Gombos Z., Vas L.M., Gaa´l J. (2005) “Testing and evaluation of resin take-up processes (in Hungarian)”, Anyagvizsga´lo´k Lapja, Vol. 15 No. 3, pp. 97-9. 19. Gombos Z., Vas L.M. (2005) “Determining the pore size of glass fiber mats on the basis of the statistical fiber mats model (in Hungarian)”, Magyar Textiltechnika, LVIII, pp. 89-91. 20. Simon Z.L., Vas L.M. (2005): “Analyzing the flexular properties of laminated composites produced by RTM technology (in Hungarian)”, Anyagvizsga´lo´k Lapja, Vol. 15 No. 4, pp. 119-121. 21. Zsigmond B., Vas L.M. (2005) “Tensile testing of carbon fiber reinforced braided tubes ˝ anyag e´s Gumi, Vol. 42 No. 12, pp. 488-491. (in Hungarian)”, MU 22. Nagy V. and Vas L.M. (2005) “Pore characteristic determination with mercury porosimetry in staple yarns”, Fibers and Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 13 No. 3, July/September, pp. 21-26.

Research register

19

IJCST 19,6

20

23. Gombos Z., Nagy V.,Vas L.M., Gaa´l J. (2005) “Investigation of pore size and resin absorbency in chopped strand mats”, Periodica Polytechnica, Ser. Mech. Eng., Vol. 49 No. 2, pp. 131–148. 24. Vas L.M. (2006) “Strength of unidirectional short fiber structures as a function of fiber length”, Journal of Composite Materials, Vol. 40 No. 19, pp. 1695-1734. 25. Vas L.M. and Cziga´ny T. “Strength modeling of two-component hybrid fiber composites in case of simultaneous fiber failures”, Journal of Composites Materials, Vol. 40 No. 19. 1735-1762. (IF ¼ 0,671) 26. Zsigmond B. and Vas L.M. (2006) “Examination of the tensile state of fibers in braided fiber reinforced composite tubes”, Periodica Polytechnica Ser. Mech. Eng., Vol.50 No.1, pp. 67-76. 27. To¨ro¨k P., Gombos Z. (2006) “Determination of the gel point from the exotherm effect of UP resin (in Hungarian)”, Anyagvizsga´lo´k Lapja, Vol. 16 No. 1, pp. 14-18. 28. Gyivicsa´n P., Gombos Z., Vas L.M. (2006) “Examination of pore size distribution of chopped strand mats with image analysis system (in Hungarian)”, Magyar Textiltechnika, Vol. 59 No. 5, pp. 146-49. 29. Vas L. M. and Tama´s P. (2006) “Fiber-bundle-cells method and its application to modeling fibrous structures”,.GE´PE´SZET 2006, 5th Conf. on Mech. Eng. Budapest, May 25-26, Proceedings (CD – Fulltext) ISBN 963 593 465 3. 30. Vas L.M. (2006) “Idealized fiber bundles and their application to modeling fibrous structures (in Hungarian)”, Scientific Session of Committee of Fiber and Composite Technology Hungarian Academy of Sciences, Budapest, 28 February. 31. Vas L. M. and Tama´s P. (2006) “Fiber-bundle-cells method and its application to modeling fibrous structures”, GE´PE´SZET 2006, 5th Conf. on Mech. Eng. Budapest, May 25-26, Proceedings (CD – Fulltext) ISBN 963 593 465 3. 32. Gombos Z. and Vas L. M. (2006): “Temperature dependence of resin absorption of various chopped strand mats”, GE´PE´SZET 2006, 5th Conf. on Mech. Eng. Budapest, May 25-26, Proceedings (CD – Full-text), pages: 6. ISBN 963 593 465 3. 33. Meggyes G., Gombos Z., and Vas L. M. (2006) “Analysing the orientation and size effects in composite sheets in tensile tests”, GE´PE´SZET 2006, 5th Conf. on Mech. Eng. Budapest, May 25-26, Proceedings (CD – Full-text), pages:6. ISBN 963 593 465 3. 34. Simon Z., Szabo´ L., and Vas L. M. (2006) “Determination of flexular modulus by image processing”, GE´PE´SZET 2006, 5th Conf. on Mech. Eng. Budapest, May 25-26, Proceedings (CD – Full-text) ISBN 963 593 465 3. 35. To¨ro¨k P., Gombos Z., and Vas L. M. (2006) “The effect of curing temperature upon the mechanical properties of unsaturated polyester resin”, GE´PE´SZET 2006, 5th Conf. on Mech. Eng. Budapest, May 25-26, Proceedings (CD – Full-text), pages: 6. ISBN 963 593 465 3. 36. Nagy V. (2006) “Examination and modeling of porosity in polyester twisted fibrous structures”, PhD thesis, BUTE Budapest. 37. Ra´cz Zs. (2006) “Analyzing the bending characteristics and damage processes of unidirectional composite beams (in Hungarian)”, PhD thesis, BUTE Budapest. 38. Vas L.M. (2006) “Statistical modeling of unidirectional fiber structures. macromolecular symposia”, Special Issue: Advanced Polymer Composites and Technologies, Vol. 239 No. 1, pp. 159-175. 39. Gombos Z., Nagy V., Kosˇta´kova´ E., Vas L.M. (2006) “Absorbency behaviour of vertically positioned nonwoven glass fiber mats in case of two different resin viscosities”, Macromolecular Symposia, Vol. 239 No. 1, pp. 227–231. 40. Nagy P. and Vas L.M. (2006) “Investigating the time dependent behavior of thermoplastic polymers under tensile load”, Macromolecular Symposia. Special Issue: Advanced Polymer Composites and Technologies, Vol. 239 No. 1, June, pp. 176-181. 41. Simon Z., Vas L.M. (2007) “Relationship between bending modulus and test sizes of laminated glass/polyester composites”, Materials Science Forum, 537-538, pp. 71-9. 42. Vas L.M., Poloskei K., Felhos D., Deak T., Czigany T. (2007) “Theoretical and experimental study of the effect of fiber heads on the mechanical properties of non-continuous basalt fiber reinforced composites”, Express Polymer Letters, Vol. 1 No. 2, pp. 109-121-91.

43. Vas L.M. (2007) “Modelling polymer composites by using fiber bundle theory based methods (in Hungarian)”, Day of Materials Science. Scientific Session of Committee of Materials Science and Technology Hungarian Academy of Sciences, Budapest, 11 May. 44. Vas L.M., Tama´s P. (2007) “Modeling method based on idealized fiber bundles”, 3rd Chine-Europe Symposium on Processing and Properties of Reinforced Polymers, 11-15 June, Budapest (Poster). 45. Gombos Z., Vas L.M., Hruza J. (2007) “The effect of layer number on air permeability in case of glass fiber mats”, 3rd Chine-Europe Symposium on Processing and Properties of Reinforced Polymers, 11-15 June, Budapest (Poster).

Dundee, Scotland, United Kingdom Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, University of Dundee, School of Design, Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art and Design, University of Dundee, Dundee DD1 4HT; Tel: 00447973621932; Fax: 00441382 201378; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Sara Keith

PhD working title: Can Electrodeposition of metals on a textile substrate enhance performance and appearance, causing the evolution of a new material? Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Project start date: October 2006 Project end date: 2009 Source of support: Arts and Humanities Research Council Keywords: Electroform, Electroplate, Textile, Fibre, Silver Research for this PhD will examine a wide variety of inert and conductive fibres to determine the optimum textile substrate for silver and copper electroforming. Conductive performance and aesthetic appearance of various textile structures will also be examined, analysing the most favourable mandrel configurations.

Project aims and objectives This body of research takes the form of a Full Time PhD. Initial aims are to identify the most successful fibre and structure combinations for electroforming. The overall objective of this research is to determine the potential for this medium within the fields of design, medicine, defence, transport as a technical and apparel textile.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) The final thesis will be presented as an exhibition and CD, supported by documentation of the tests and consultation process reflecting on results. Potential applications for this medium will also be outlined.

Research register

21

IJCST 19,6

22

Publications The Cutting Edge National Museums of Scotland ISBN: 978-1-905267-07-1 Touring exhibition 2007-8 and book 2007 New Craft Future Voices Conference University of Dundee, United Kingdom Exhibit 2007 The Art of Research Symposium University of Art and Design Helsinki, Finland Paper and exhibit

Edinburgh, Scotland, UK Heriot-Watt University, School of Engineering and Physical Sciences, Riccarton, Edinburgh, Scotland, UK EH14 4AS; Tel: +44 131 451 3034; Fax: +44 131 451 3473; E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. J.I.B. Wilson and Dr R.R. Mather

Solar cells in textiles Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None More Being sought Project start date: 2001 Project end date: Ongoing Keywords: Thin film silicon, solar energy, photovoltaics We are developing thin-film silicon solar cells on low cost textile substrates, using chemical vapour deposition (CVD) technology, based on previous thin-film diamond expertise. The CVD technology employs a proprietary microwave plasma system (developed at Heriot-Watt University) with silane/hydrogen/dopant gas mixtures to produce the sequence of layers that forms the active part of these cells. We have shown that relatively low deposition temperatures of 200
C and the active plasma conditions of the process do not affect our textile substrates, whether of woven or non-woven construction. In addition, solutions have been determined to the problem of providing reliable electrical contacts over fibrous, flexible substrates, together with a conventional transparent conducting oxide as the top contact in the cell “sandwich” structure. Effective “first barrier” encapsulation may also use our deposition technology.

Project aims and objectives Flexible solar cells for a variety of applications: e.g. building facades, use in remote areas, emergency use in disaster relief, camping/leisure industry, portable chargers.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) Working prototype

Publications “Textiles make solar cells that are flexible and lightweight”, Technical Textiles International, December 2002, pp 5-6. “Solar textiles: production and distribution of electricity coming from solar radiation. Applications” in Intelligent Textiles and Clothing, ed. H. Mattila, Woodhead Publishing Limited, Cambridge, 2006, pp 202-217.

Research register

23

Galashiels, Scotland Heriot Watt University, Scottish Borders Campus, Netherdale, Galashiels TD1 3HF, Tel: +01896 892245; Fax: +01896 758965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Dr Alex. Fotheringham Research Staff: Basel Younes

Optimisation of Weaving Process for Biopolymers Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None None Project start date: October 2006 Project end date: September 2010 Source of support: British Council Keywords: Fibre extrusion, Yarn production, Weaving This is part of a general research programme in the production and use of biopolymers. Current research investigates the optimisation of biopolymer fibre production using experimental design techniques to statistically map processing parameters to mechanical properties. Having produced a model of the fibre and yarn production, the relationship between fibre/yarn characteristics, weaving parameters and fabric properties can then be established. Related work is researching into the use of gas plasma for the pre-treatment of polylactic acid fabric, the printing of knitted biopolymer fabrics and dyeing of such materials in fibre/yarn form.

Project aims and objectives .

To establish the relationships which exist between processing and final properties.

.

To identify the value of gas plasma treatment on biopolymer fabrics for e.g. dyeing, coating etc.

.

To optimise printing on knitted biopolymer fabrics.

Objectives: .

To use experimental designs to create statistical models.

IJCST 19,6

.

To use statistical models as forecasting tools to establish the relationships between processing and properties.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

24

.

A statistical model of fire, yarn and fabric (weaving) processing. To create similar models for fibre dyeing and printing.

Publications Not available

Galashiels, UK Heriot-Watt University, Heriot-Watt University, Netherdale, Galashiels TD1 3HF, Tel: +44 1896 892234; Fax: +44 1896 75 8965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Dr Lisa MacIntyre Research Staff: Pippa Bell

The measurement and control of mean pressure delivery exerted by pressure garments for the treatment of hypertrophic scars Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None None Project start date: September 2004 Project end date: September 2007 Source of support: EPSRC and Drapers Company Keywords: Pressure garment, Pressure measurement, Hypertrophic burn scars, Powernet fabric Pressure garments are the predominant treatment method for hypertrophic scars. They are constructed from elastic fabrics and are custom-made to suit individual treatment specifications. The properties of the elastic fabrics have an impact on the pressure delivery of the garments and ultimately determine treatment success. During this investigation 12 new pressure garment fabrics have been knitted using the powernet structure. Each fabric has a slightly different specification and by assessing certain fabric properties, the impact on pressure delivery of these fabrics can be established. The reduction factor, fabric tension and model circumference are the main properties that contribute to the pressure delivery of the fabrics; the relationships of which are being thoroughly investigated. The measurement of pressure delivery exerted by pressure garments to the wound site is very important. A mean pressure of 25mmHg has been regularly quoted as the optimum pressure required for treating hypertrophic scars. It has been established that when assessing the extent of pressure delivery to the patient, there is no scientific

method currently used by medical practitioners. Based on this information two sensor measurement systems are being developed and investigated for this project. The sensors are being used to measure the mean pressures exerted by pressure garment samples on cylinder models and have been incorporated into the construction of a pressure sensing mannequin which is a simulation of the male upper torso and left arm. Further measurements are to be taken from human volunteers and compared with the model analysis results. Throughout the investigation development work on a predictive equation for calculating pressure delivery of 25mmHg to small circumference limbs from pressure garments is being carried out.

Project aims and objectives .

.

Evaluate the pressures exerted to small circumference limbs and complex body shapes. Develop a pressure-sensing mannequin incorporating an accurate and reliable pressure measurement system to record pressures exerted by pressure garments.

.

Evaluate the effectiveness of 3D modelling for investigation between fabric specifications and applied pressure.

.

Establish relationships between powernet fabric construction variables and pressure delivery potential.

Publications Not available

Galashiels, Scotland, UK Heriot-Watt University, RIFleX, School of Textiles and Design, Netherdale, Galashiels TD1 3HF, UK, Tel: +44 1896 89 2135; Fax: +44 1896 75 8965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. George K. Stylios Research Staff: Mohamed Basel Bazbouz

Investigating the Spinning of Yarn from Electro-spun Nanofibres Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None None Project start date: November 2004 Project end date: October 2008 Project budget: None Source of support: None Keywords: Electrospinning, Polymers, Nanofibre, Alignment, Yarn, Composite

Research register

25

IJCST 19,6

26

Our laboratory is using a process called electrospinning which has the ability to produce a wide variety of polymeric fibres with diameters from a couple of micrometer down to the nanometer scale. In this case different structures can be made from electrospun fibers to suit the needs of various industries. Electrospinning, a fibre spinning technique that relies on electrostatic forces to produce fibres in the nanometer to micron diameter range, has been extensively explored as a simple method to prepare fibres from polymer solutions or melts. Under the influence of the electrostatic field, a pendant droplet of the polymer solution at the spinneret is deformed into a conical shape (Taylor cone). If the voltage surpasses a threshold value, electrostatic forces overcome the surface tension, and a fine charged jet is ejected. As these electric static forces increase, the jet will elongate and accelerate by the electric forces. The jet undergoes a variety of instabilities, dries, and deposits on a substrate as a random nanofibre mat. In our work, nonwoven electrospun mats of nylon 6 produced from solutions with formic acid with different concentrations are examined. Each nonwoven mat with average fibre diameters from 200 to 1300 nm was prepared under controlled electrospinning process parameters. Effects of electric field and tip-to-collection plate distances of various nylon 6 concentrations in formic acid on fibre uniformity, morphology and diameters were measured. Processing parameters effects on the morphology such as fibre diameter and its uniformity of electrospun polymer nanofibres was investigated. A process optimization summarized the effects of solutions properties and processing parameters on the electrospun nanofibre morphology was issued. In our work, we Control the electrospinning process to move away from just collecting random fibre mesh to enabling the accurate deposit of fibres at any predetermined position. This will be by using a simple method of getting a fibres bundle made of aligned nanofibres between two known points. This collection process has been termed as the ‘gap method of alignment’ involves grounding two circular disks from the spinneret. We have demonstrated that it is possible to produce continuous fiber yarn made out of electrospun nanofibres. The current process has the potential to spin nanofibre at a commercially viable rate.

Project aims and objectives .

Understanding of the electrospinning process.

.

Optimizing its process parameters to electrospin polymers into nanofibres with desired morphology.

.

Discussing the models proposed for jet forming, jet travel, processing instabilities.

.

Tensile testing of polymeric nanofibres.

.

Controlling the spatial alignment of electrospun fibres.

.

A technique for making continuous fibre bundle yarns from electrospun fibres.

.

Investigating the other methods for producing continuous fibre bundle yarns, Core-yarn and laminate composite consisting of aligned fibres in different Directions.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

Nonwoven electrospun mats of nylon 6 produced from solutions with formic acid with different concentrations are examined.

.

Each nonwoven mat with average fibre diameters from 200 to 1300 nm was prepared under controlled electrospinning process parameters.

.

Effects of electric field and tip-to-collection plate distances of various nylon 6 concentrations in formic acid on fibre uniformity, morphology and diameters were measured.

.

Processing parameters effects on the morphology such as fibre diameter and its uniformity of electrospun polymer nanofibres were investigated.

.

A process optimization summarized the effects of solutions properties and processing parameters on the electrospun nanofibre morphology was issued.

.

The well-known Chauchy’s inequality is applied to prediction the velocity of the end of the jet in electrospinning.

.

A critical relationship between radius r of jet and the axial distance z from nozzle is obtained for the straight jet. Draw ratio between the jet and the final fibres was pridicted theoritically.

. .

Manufacturing of aligned fibres array was easily achievable.

.

Processing parameters effects on the aligned fibres such as gab distance and collection time were investigated.

Publications In preparation: .

Systematic parameter study for ultra- fine nylon 6 fibre produced by electrospinning technique.

.

Electrospinning of aligned nanofibres with cotrolled deposition.

Conferences Paper and Poster: .

June 2006 (Electrospinning of nanofibres: potential scaffolds for medical applications) a presentation presented in Research in Support of Medicine, Health and Safety Conference, Edinburgh, UK.

.

June 2006 (Systematic parameter study for ultra- fine nylon 6 fibre produced by electrospinning technique), Poster presentation, Research in Support of Medicine, Health and Safety Conference, Edinburgh, UK.

Galashiels, Scotland, UK Heriot-Watt University, RIFleX, School of Textiles and Design, Netherdale, Galashiels TD1 3HF, UK, Tel: +44 1896 89 2135; Fax: +44 1896 75 8965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. George K. Stylios Research Staff: Mohammad Mahfuzur Rahman Chowdhury

Research register

27

IJCST 19,6

Investigating Nano Fibre Production by the Electrospinning Process Other Partners: Academic

28

Industrial

None None Project start date: July 2004 Project end date: June 2008 Keywords: Electrospinning, Electrospinning process, Parameters, Polymer, Nanofibre application Electrospinning is a unique way to produce novel polymer nanofibres with diameter typically in the range of 10 nm to 500 nm. Using this process, the polymer nanofibres can be made from a variety of polymer solutions or melt to produce fibres for a wide range of applications. Electrospinning occurs when the electrical force at the surface of a polymer solution or melt overcomes the surface tension and causes an electrically charged jet to be ejected. When the jet dries or solidifies, an electrically charged fibre remains. This charged fibre can be directed or collected or accelerated by electrical forces, then collected in sheets or other geometrical forms. This research project is an investigation of the electrospinning process and the effect of process variables on orientation, crystallinity, microstructure and mechanical properties of the nanofibres produced. Some of the polymeric parameters investigated are polymer type, solvent type, molecular weight, solution properties, viscosity, conductivity and surface tension. In the case of process parameters, the electric potential, flow rate, concentration, distance between capillary and collection screen, ambient parameters are important

Project aims and objectives .

To investigate process-structure-property relationships in polymer fibres with nanosize diameters produced by electrospinning

.

To innvestigate the morphology and properties of the polymer nanofibres

.

To produce fibres at uniform diameters

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

Nanofibres of uniform diameter

.

Defined mechanical and physical properties

.

Process-structure-property relationships

.

Detailed understanding of the electrospinning process

.

Nanofibres suitable for applications such as air filtration, protective clothing, fibre reinforced support, and Biomedical.

Publication “Nano fibre and its medical application”, Poster presentation in Research in support of Medicine, Health and Safety” Conference, Heriot-Watt University, Scotland, UK.

Galashiels, Scotland, UK Heriot-Watt University, RIFleX, School of Textiles and Design, Netherdale, Galashiels TD1 3HF, UK, Tel: +44 1896 89 2135; Fax: +44 1896 75 8965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. George K. Stylios Research Staff: Dr Taoyu Wan

Novel Micro-Channel Membranes for Controlled Delivery of Biopharmaceuticals Other Partners: Academic None

Industrial Stryker UK Ltd, St James’s University Hospital, Leeds General Infirmary, Camira Fabrics Ltd, Dinsmore Textile Solutions Ltd Project end date: March 2009

Project start date: April 2006 Project budget: £650,000 Source of support: DTI Technology Programme Keywords: Micro-channel, Micro-porous, Membrane, Controlled delivery, Drug release

This project, which stems out of research findings of an EPSRC-funded research, aims at developing micro channel structures (coatings, membranes, foams, etc.) with encapsulated biopharmaceuticals capable of controlled release by changes in temperature, pH, magnetic field or voltage. A technique for encapsulating biopharmaceuticals into micro-channels of a polymer matrix structure and controlling their subsequent release will be developed. Driven by the consortium, the technologies will be veered towards various pay-load bearing applications, e.g. in self-supporting materials for delivering bone growth hormones (INN eptotermin alpha) in bone fractures, or in coated textiles for the personal hygiene, healthcare, treatment and protective clothing industries.

Project aims and objectives The main objectives for the projects are to: .

Establish criteria for channel size and distribution control; engineer the structure and morphology of the porous material to suit the encapsulation of biopharmaceuticals and their slow release. This involves both self-supported materials and coated textiles.

.

Investigate UV-based techniques for the encapsulation of specific biopharmaceuticals, with particular reference to bone growth hormones.

.

Investigate strategies for the controlled release of the biomaterials from the channels within the developed membrane or coating.

Research register

29

IJCST 19,6

30

.

Characterise and test laboratory and pilot-scale samples - study release rates of the biopharmaceuticals, degradation/absorption rates and efficacy of the system.

.

Investigate alternative exploitation routes as coated textiles with encapsulated biopharmaceuticals.

The project will investigate possibilities both for implantable and non-implantable payload bearing materials, both as self-supported materials, and as coatings or membranes supported by a base fabric. Research work on implantable applications will however only be performed in laboratory scale with the aim to prove the concepts.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

. .

.

Pilot-scale production of membranes, coatings, foams, or any other forms of channel-containing materials with engineered, controllable and tailor-made channel sizes, shapes and distributions. Defined characteristics, properties and performance of the as-produced materials A technique to encapsulate biopharmaceuticals within the membrane channels using a UV cross-linking technique, which eliminates the need to use high temperature treatments for encapsulation. This enables the biopharmaceuticals to maintain their effectiveness. The final expected result is the development of a system for activated release, e.g. following a change in stimuli or external conditions, such as temperature, pH, magnetic field or voltage. This will enable the controlled and targeted release of the biopharmaceutical as, when and where required for optimum treatments after fractures.

Publications Stylios, G.K., Giannoudis, P.V., Wan, T., (2005), “Applications of nanotechnologies in medical practice”, Injury, Vol. 36S, pp. S6-S13. Stylios, G.K., Wan, T., Giannoudis, P.V., (2006), “Present status and future potential in the enhancement of bone healing using nanotechnology”, Accepted for publication in Injury.

Galashiels, Scotland, UK Heriot-Watt University, RIFleX, School of Textiles and Design, Netherdale, Galashiels TD1 3HF, UK, Tel: +44 1896 89 2135; Fax: +44 1896 75 8965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. George K. Stylios Research Staff: Liang Luo

Interactive Wireless and Smart Fabrics for Textiles and Clothing Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None

None

Project start date: September 2002 Project end date: September 2008 Project budget: None Source of support: Worshipful Company of Weavers Keywords: Smart, Interactive, Textiles, Garment, Clothing, Sensors, Wireless The last few years have witnessed an increased interest in wearable technologies, smart fabrics and interactive garments. This has come about by certain technological innovations n the areas of sensor-based fabrics, micro devices, wire and wireless networks. In terms of textiles, most of current developments are towards the fashion markets and have resulted in glorifying garments as gimmicky gadgets. However, some efforts are also being directed in using the technology for improving the quality of life, or even for life saving purposes. Examples of such uses can be found in the military, healthcare, fire fighting, etc. This research project investigates new interdisciplinary technologies in fabrics, sensors and wireless computing, for the development of a prototype interactive garment for monitoring various functions of the wearer.

Project aims and objectives The general aim of the project is to develop technologies for use in interactive garments, which can provide monitoring functions for various applications such as the clinical or healthcare sector. More specifically, objectives are: .

Develop suitable wireless sensors for various measurements, including ECG, temperature, breathing, skin conductivity, mobility and movement, humidity, positioning, etc.

.

Develop a Personal Area Network and a Wireless Communication Centre.

.

Optimise suitable wireless technologies such as Bluetooth to enable communication between sensors and a central processing unit.

.

Conceptualise a smart multilayer fabric.

.

Integrate technologies.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

Wireless sensors for physiological and other measurements.

.

Wireless communication centre for relaying information between sensors, wearers, central processing unit and Internet.

.

Conceptual multilayer fabric suitable for interactive garments.

Publications Stylios, G.K., Luo, L., (2003), “Investigating an interactive wireless textile system for SMART clothing”, 1st International Textile Design and Engineering Conference (INTEDEC 2003), Fibrous Assemblies at the Design and Engineering Interface, Edinburgh, UK, 22-24 September. Stylios, G.K., Luo, L., (2003), “The concept of interactive, wireless, SMART fabrics for textiles and clothing”, 4th International Conference, Innovation and Modelling of Clothing Engineering Processes – IMCEP 2003, Maribor, Slovenia, 9-11 October.

Research register

31

IJCST 19,6

32

Stylios, G.K, Luo, L., (2004), “A SMART wireless vest system for patient rehabilitation”, Wearable Electronic and Smart Textiles Seminar, Leeds, UK, 11 June. Stylios, G.K., Luo, L., Chan, Y.Y.F., Lam Po Tang, S., (2005), “The concept of smart textiles at the design/technology interface”, 5th International Istanbul Textile Conference, Recent Advances and Innovations in Textile and Clothing, Istanbul, Turkey, 19-21 May.

Galashiels, UK Heriot-Watt University, School of Textiles & Design, Netherdale, Galashiels, Scotland TD1 3HF, UK, Tel: +44 1896 892140; Fax: +44 1896 758965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): R H Wardman and R M Christie Research Staff: S Lam Po Tang

Multifunctional Technical Textiles for Construction, Medical Applications and Protective Clothing Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

9 universities across Europe 13 SMEs across Europe Project start date: 1 May 2006 Project end date: 30 April 2010 Project budget: e12.7million Source of support: European Union Keywords: Protective textiles, Digital printing The project involves a consortium of 13 high tech and less RTD intensive SMEs across the enlarged European Union, together with 3 non-SMEs and 9 universities and research institutes. The project will involve the development of digital printing procedures and equipment to enable the disposing of fluids of various chemical agents to textile fabrics to impart functionalities geared towards protection.

Project aims and objectives The objective of the project is to develop breakthrough technology based on digitally microdisposing fluids on textiles, enabling high-speed protective functionalization, continuous processing and customised production. Digital microdisposal has the ability of exact localisation and patterning of functionalities in multilayer textile substrates, integrating advanced thermo- and hydro-regulation, sensorics, actuating and controlled release functions, based on nanotechnology and multifunctional materials.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) Creation of new knowledge in mechatronics and micro-fluids, nanotechnology and multifunctional materials. Understanding the behaviour at nano-level of droplets on textile substrates.

Technology breakthrough in textiles, enabling new functionalities; mass customisation and launching of new product services systems integrating the supply chain. New standards in personal protective equipment by enabling functionalities that empower the worker (sensorics and controlled release) to customise functionalities to specific uses. A shift from water-based processes, thereby achieving considerable savings in water, chemicals, and effluent. Publications Not available

Galashiels, Scotland, UK Research Institute for Flexible Materials, School of Textiles & Design, Heriot-Watt University, Galashiels, Selkirkshire TD1 3 HF, Tel: +01896 892135; Fax: +01896 758965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. G K Stylios, RIFleX, Heriot Watt University (Academic), Dr K. Lee, Unilever Research (Industrial) Research Staff: L. Luo plus others in partner universities.

Multi-scale Integrated Modelling for High Performance Flexible Materials Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

University of Nottingham and Manchester Unilever, OCF Plc, TechniTex Faraday Ltd, Crode International Plc, ScotWeave University Ltd, Airbags International Ltd, Moxon of Huddersfield Ltd, Carrington Carrer & Workwear Ltd Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2010 Project budget: £1.7 Million Source of support: Department of Trade and Industry DTI Keywords: Modelling, Yarn, Fabric, Garment, Hagh performance This is a flagship proposal for the UK. It is based on integrating micro, meso and macro scale structure/property and deformation models for high performance flexible materials. The outputs will be industry targeted solutions for predicting the properties and behaviour of high performance flexible materials in deformed states during usage including garments. The proposal stems from the modelling achievements of the three academic partners, combining their complimentary work, and after integration, adapting them for industry use, with Unilever, the lead partner, and 12 companies

Research register

33

IJCST 19,6

34

covering diverse applications of the outputs, attempting to represent this sector. OCF and Scotweave will help commercialising the output in the form of a software product or licence. The main aim of the project is to develop the models such that they can be used primarily by the high performance textiles and garment industry, but also by other industries dealing with flexible materials. The key strength of the proposal is that for the first time an attempt is made to model the behaviour of flexible materials in a 3D manner, taking into account the dynamic changes of performance related properties with physical changes during use. .

Bridging the gap between (a) industry needs for predictive and development tools and (b) academic modelling efforts on two levels: structure/property micro/meso scale and macro-scale whole flexible structures such as high performance clothing.

.

Modelling of overall properties and performance of simple deformed textile structures such as draped/creased/folded fabrics, predicting the dynamic changes of performance related to physical deformations. This will be an innovative engineering tool for industries involved in designing, developing and manufacturing flexible materials, initially targeted at fabrics, but with applications to paper and thin films.

.

Modelling simple high performance whole garments based on structural/geometrical parameters of the flexible materials, to predict the changes in whole garment performance caused by yarn and fabric changes. No model that can perform this function for the high performance clothing industry is yet available. This aspect of the work will be a powerful tool for the high performance clothing and garment industry (high performance medical wear, protective clothing, sportswear, etc.)

The project will lead to two way modelling: predicting properties and performance of deformed textile materials and whole garments from structural, mechanical and geometrical parameters, or vice versa, i.e. generating structural, mechanical and geometrical requirements for specific end-product characteristics. Focusing on the high performance clothing sector, the work will provide a first-in-its-kind tool for design, development, engineering and optimisation of high performance flexible materials and exploited by a consortium of diverse companies, three of which are technology providers and the rest users of the technology. Different mechanisms (e.g. interfacial modification) can be exploited in the manufacture, modification, cleaning and care of high performance multi-component textiles. This will permit rational design of these materials and associated products, reducing the need for experimental development and testing. This project will push the boundaries in multi-scale modelling by building on leading edge expertise in fibre to yarn scale modelling at Manchester University, yarn to textile scale modelling at Nottingham University, and textile to whole flexible structures and clothing at Heriot-Watt University. By developing and interfacing these areas closely coupled tools will allow completely predictive models to be developed. It will also be the first time that modelling techniques have been used to understand the effects of interfacial properties on textile performance, leading to increasing innovation in high performance textile products.

Project aims and objectives .

Combining the strong modelling expertise of the four academic partners to create multi-scale integrated models for predicting structural properties and performance of flexible materials.

.

Optimising the integrated models for industry use, focusing in the first instance at high performance clothing and technical textiles.

.

Increasing time and cost efficiency of industry in product design and fabrication, starting with the high performance clothing industry.

.

The objectives address industry needs for new and improved product design and fabrication aids for high performance materials e.g. in view of the London 2012 Olympics (high performance sportswear, anti-terrorism protective clothing, etc.). They will enable the prediction of properties and performance before manufacturing, hence accelerating the development stage, reducing costs and increasing competitiveness.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

.

.

.

A Virtual Testing capability will be developed and transferred into industry, reducing the amount of experimentation required for new product development (new textiles, treatments and laundry products designed and manufactured) and thereby reducing the associated costs and waste generation (improving sustainability of production). Direct beneficiaries of this work will be manufacturers of apparel, textile, technical and allied industries. Indirect beneficiaries will include manufacturers of carpets, non-wovens, composites, paper and structural materials, as well as retailing and software (after commercialising). Bridging the gap between (a) industry needs for predictive and development tools and (b) academic modelling efforts on two levels: structure/property micro/meso scale and macro-scale whole flexible structures such as high performance clothing. Modelling of overall properties and performance of simple deformed textile structures such as draped/creased/folded fabrics, predicting the dynamic changes of performance related to physical deformations. This will be an innovative engineering tool for industries involved in designing, developing and manufacturing flexible materials, initially targeted at fabrics, but with applications to paper and thin films. Modelling simple high performance whole garments based on structural/geometrical parameters of the flexible materials, to predict the changes in whole garment performance caused by yarn and fabric changes. No model that can perform this function for the high performance clothing industry is yet available. This aspect of the work will be a powerful tool for the high performance clothing and garment industry (high performance medical wear, protective clothing, sportswear, etc.)

Publications Too early.

Research register

35

IJCST 19,6

36

Galashiels, Scotland, UK Research Institute for Flexibel Materials, School of Textiles & Design, Heriot Watt University, Galashiels, Selkirkshire TD1 3 HF, Tel: +01896 892135; Fax: +01896 758965; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. G. K. Stylios Research Staff: X. Zhao

Integration of CFD and CAE for Design and Performance Assessement of Protective Clothing Other Partners: Academic None

Industrial Tilsatec Ltd, TechniTex Faraday Ltd, Camira Fabrics Ltd, St Jame’s University Hospital, Remploy Ltd, Pil Membranes Ltd, Altair Engineering Ltd. Project end date: 31 May 2010

Project start date: 1 June 2007 Project budget: £600,000 Source of support: Engineering and Physical Sience Rerearch Council EPSRC and Department of Trade and Industry DTI Keywords: CFD, CAE, Protective fabric, Garment, Apparel, Modelling high performance This collaborative proposal aims at improving and developing new textiles for protective clothing by integrating Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) and Computer Aided Engineering (CAE). A new industrial tool for predicting the diffusion of chemical and/or biological (CB) agents through multilayer, non-homogenous flexible porous materials such as fabrics and whole garments will also be established. Multi-layer textile structures (flat and shaped) and simple garments will be modelled, using equations of mass, heat and momentum balance, integrated with human computational representation. The outcome will be optimisation of current commercial fabrics/garments and developing new protective clothing whilst, at the same time offering a new objective tool for product designers, engineers and developers to predict and evaluate performance of CB protective products.

Project aims and objectives .

Develop and integrate CAE/CFD for modelling of a clothed human to predict the performance of textiles and garments in CB protective applications, linking with fabric design and manufacturing.

.

Establish an objective measure protocole for CB protection end uses.

.

Improve protection performance of (PPE) and (PC) through new product development for extreme conditions.

.

Develop new materials by better understanding of the complex interactions between the flow of CB agents and textile/materials properties.

Research register

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

With a worldwide focus on CB agents, the project is timely for industry, considering the legislative demands for public health, safety and security. Growing concerns from government, the public and private sector about threats of terrorist attacks or epidemic outbreaks have led to increased performance and evaluation requirements. Increasing emphases on security for international events (e.g. London 2012) are also drivers for the above innovations. The proposed project addresses these issues by development key technologies for immediate and long-term use. The consortium experience can achieve the project objectives and lead to a major breakthrough in PC.

Publications Too early.

Huddersfield, UK University of Huddersfield, Queensgate, Huddersfield HD1 3DH, Tel: +44 1484 472563; Fax: +44 1484 472826; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Paul Squires Research Staff: Cari Morton

word4word Other Partners: Academic TEKO Centre - The Danish Academy of Design, Technology, Textile, Denmark, Handelsfagsskolen Business and Retail College, Denmark, Baronie College, Breda, Holland Project start date: September 2004 Project budget: UK Budget: e53,000 Source of support: Leonardo Funds

Industrial Dansk Textil Union, Danish Retailers Organisation, Copenhagen, Denmark, IC Companies, Copenhagen, Denmark, ECCO Shoe, Areal, Portugal Project end date: December 2006

The textile/clothing, fashion and footwear industries in Denmark and in Europe are remarkable in experiencing an unsurpassed globalisation process and technological development and at the same time suffering from an educational backlog especially in terms of language competences and terminological knowledge, which often lead to costly mistakes and cross-cultural misunderstandings. Experience and reports from the industry show that the knowledge society and knowledge-based economy vigorously call for a larger degree of flexibility and readiness for innovation which can only be

37

IJCST 19,6

38

achieved through continuous competence building and the development of a common terminological platform. Consequently companies and institutions of education will join forces in an International/European network to develop a common platform for knowledge-sharing by establishing a combined online terminology database and visual training system. The International/European dimension is needed in national training in companies and for students at textile/design schools who are to take up positions in companies operating worldwide. At production sites the database will provide in annovative teaching tool for competence building. The partners will involve the knowledge and competences of their own institutions in a collaboration where their expert knowledge within the various stages of the value chain from raw material to finished product will complement each other. Given the sheer scope and limited time span of the project and to ensure quality, the project will cover terminology in the stages from raw material to sem-finished product in English, German and Danish. Subsequent projects will extend the database from semimanufactures to finished articles and extend the database into other languages.

Project aims and objectives Aims: .

To develop an online terminology database in Danish, English and German for the textile/clothing, fashion and footwear industry.

.

To strengthen the students’ knowldge of the terminology used in the industry thus enhancing their skills and employability.

Objectives: .

To provide a flexible, visual hands-on teaching tool.

.

To provide companies with a tool to achieve consistency and homogeneity in vocabulary thus eliminating costly mistakes and preventing cultural misunderstandings.

.

The work in the project will imply the implementation of a terminology bank for teachers, students and companies.

.

To establish a lasting network between the partners and to strengthen and develop this further as the terminology database is to be extended into other languages. When this network has been firmly established, it will open up for all interested parties and countries in the EU.

.

To strengthen the industry’s ties to trade assocations and other organisations.

.

To utilise the project results from the textile/clothing, fashion and footwear industry within other trades needing to obtain the same methodology for teaching and homogeneity in terminology.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

An online database in English, Danish and German to strengthen consistency and homogeneity of the terminology used within the textile/clothing, fashion and footwear industry.

.

A database for visual teaching materials for teachers, thus introducting a new teaching methodology.

.

A web-platform for interactive information and exchange of information for teachers, students and companies.

.

Consequently, the users can contribute to the contents of the database by using the link provided for suggestions.

.

A database and interactive tool for anyone taking an interest in terminology. Students at textile and design schools who are studying to become employees in the textile/clothing, fashion and footwear industry, be it as controllers, designers, purchasers or exporters.

.

.

Teachers at textile and design schools who undertake special subject teaching within textile/clothing and footwear.

.

Teachers who are trainers at production sites. Companies within the industry.

.

Publications The results of the project work will be disseminated in various ways: Internallly in partner institutions: The companies will implement the database in their daily workin the mother company, subsidiaries and with their suppliers worldwide. The institutions of education will integrate the results in the curricula of the courses offered and place the results on their intranets. Teachers will use the templates as teaching materials. Externally: The partners will inform the public about the results by advertising in trade journals, participating in fairs and holding seminars and information meetings natiionally. Local/national and international trade organisations, chambers of commerce and institutions of education will be informed of the results. A printed leaflet and a CD-Rom will be made about the possibilities for using the results of the project, besides information about the www.word4word.dk site will be given. This will ensure fast access to new knowledge for any interested person besides students, teachers and companies. The database will continuously be extended after the project period and expanded into other European languages. Once the project has been completed the database will become subject to commercialisation on a subscription basis to ensure continous development and up-dating of the database.

Huddersfield, England University of Huddersfield, Department of Design, Queensgate Campus, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire HD1 3DH, Tel: +44 1484 472928; Fax: +44 1484 472826; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Helen Woodget

Research register

39

IJCST 19,6

How to Realise Complex Textile Craft Techniques by Cad and Ink Jet Printing Other Partners: Academic

40

Industrial

None Dr R Annable, Dr J Pearson, Ms P Macbeth Project start date: June 2005 Project end date: April 2007 Keywords: Ink jet printing, Craft, Colour management, Simulation of craft techniques There are many techniques in textile crafts which are virtually impossible to produce commercially, for example hand and computer generated embroidered textiles and hand knotted woven fabrics. With the growing interest in the consumer market in the UK particular for textile craft products, it is becoming increasingly important to develop reproducible techniques to enable these products to be made to a commercially acceptable level. With the capability of ink jet printing being able to print at high resolution and in almost true colour, it is possible to simulate these techniques on fabric. In doing so, accurate colour representation must be achieved; the method of colour management used will be examined. This research describes the steps required to obtain identical images of the textile craft onto a CAD system, with the correct resolution, number of colours and size. This research is also pushing the boundaries of what is possible to print on using textile ink jet technology and pre-manipulated fabrics. Using a variety of fabrics that previously have not been able to print using ink jet technology; looking into custom treating and the possibility of fixing pigment inks.

Project aims and objectives The aim of this research is to achieve an accurate representation of hand-developed craft techniques using CAD software and textile ink jet technology, and to study the problems that may arise with this and to produce high quality printed fabric results. They will need to be commercially viable and in doing so the beginnings of a catalogue will be generated allowing for choice in custom made printed textiles. The process will be documented for future production of simulated craft techniques onto printed fabrics, resulting in the discussion of the use of colour management, CAD software and potential uses.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

.

The outcomes of this research will be introduced into the teaching of these techniques into the under graduate courses. BA/BSc (Hons) Textile Design for Fashion and Interiors.

.

BA (Hons)Textile Crafts.

.

BA (Hons) Surface Design. BA (Hons) Costume with Textiles at the University of Huddersfield, and

. .

MSc in CAD in Textile Technolgy.

Publications The use of Wide Format Ink Jet Printing for Textile Sampling, paper presented at AUTEX Conference, July 2002, Bruges, Belgium. The Use of Embellishment Techniques with Ink Jet Printed Repeated Designs, paper presented at INDETEC Conference Setember 2003, Edinborugh. The Commercial Realistaion of Complex Textile Craft Techniques by Cad and Ink Jet Printing, paper presented at Archtex Conference, September 2005, Krakow, Poland. Craftily using Ink Jet, paper published in ‘Textiles’ Journal Issue, Vol. 33, No. 2, pp. 20-22.

Izmir, Turkey Dokuz Eylul Uni, Deu Muhendislik Fakultesi Tekstil Muhendisligi Bol. Bornova Izmir Turkiye, Tel: +902323882869; Fax: +902323882867; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Ass. Prof. Fatma Ceken Research Staff: Gulsah Pamuk (MSc in Textile Eng)

Physical Properties of Automotive Seat Fabrics Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None Various Fabric Producers in Turkey Project start date: September 2005 Project end date: September 2007 Project budget: 10000 USD Source of support: Dokuz Eylul Uni. and Turkish Fabric Producers Keywords: Automotive seat fabrics, warp knitted fabric, woven fabric, velvet fabrics People spend more time in their cars with increased daily commuter distances to and from work, increased traffic density, more people work away from from home and travel long distances by car at the weekends.For this reason the automobile manufacturers not only improve the technical and mechanical primary functions of the automobile but also improve the secondary parts that appeal to the senses, such as seats, door panels, carpets etc. Seat covers is one of the most important factor for interior car design and for passenger’s comfort. The main fabric technologies used for seat covers are woven velour, jacquard woven, warp knit, warp knit pile sinker, warp knit double needle bar raschel velour, circular knit jacquard pile and spacers. The warp knitted fabrics have a structure that can be controlled and spesific level of stretch and recovery. The major limitiaiton of warp knitted fabrics is their relatively limitted capability to produce large area of color and design effects. The spacer fabrics, when used in seat covers, provide temperature control, comfort and support.

Project aims and objectives In this study the aim is to compare the physical properties of automotive seat fabrics which are produced using different manufacturing techniques. Publications Not available

Research register

41

IJCST 19,6

42

Jalandhar, India National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, Department of Textile Technology, Dr B. R Ambedkar National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar, G T Road Bye Pass, Jalandhar-144011, Punjab (India); Tel: +91 0181 2690301, 2690302; Fax: +91 0181 2690932, 2690320; E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Vinay Kumar Midha

Development of Needle Punched Nonwoven Blanket Fabric Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Dr S. Ghosh None Project start date: 1 April 2004 Project end date: 30 September 2007 Project budget: Rs 15 LACS Source of support: Ministry of Human Resource Development, India Blankets are generally woven or knitted and are made from pure wool or blends of wool and acrylic fibres. Woven or Knitted fabric production is a lengthy, laborious and costly process. Whereas the needle punched fabric production is a short process and the manufacturing cost of needle punched nonwoven fabric is much lower. A nonwoven blanket is defined as a blanket produced by bonding or interlocking of fibres or both, accomplished by mechanical, chemical, thermal or solvent means or combination thereof. The important parameters, which affect the structure and properties in a needle punch nonwoven blanket, are the web parameters (type of fibre and fabric weight per unit area) and machine parameters (depth of needle penetration and needle punch density). The important requirements for end use performance of blankets are good handle, softness, good abrasion resistance, good thermal insulation in winter and good air permeability in summer. Fabric abrasion resistance increases linearly with the increase in needle punch density, but as the needle punch density is increased the other important properties like thermal resistance and handle are adversely affected. So a fabric with good thermal and handle properties will have poor abrasion resistance and vice-versa. So to design a blanket with good abrasion resistance without spoiling the softness and thermal properties, the machine parameters and web parameters are to be systematically optimized.

Project aims and objectives The objective of the project is to produce a cost effective nonwoven blanket by optimising the machine parameters to produce good thermal, softness and abrasive properties

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) Publications Not available

Jalandhar, India National Institute of Technology Jalandhar, Depratment of Textile Technology, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar – 1440111, India; Tel: +91 181 2690301 2, 453; Fax: +91 181 2690320, 2690932; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Dr Arunangshu Mukhopadhyay Research Staff: Ms. Sunpreet Kaur

Designing Nonwoven Fabric for Pulse-jet Filtration Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Project start date: 31 March 2005 Project end date: 30 September 2008 Project budget: Rs. 15 lacs Source of support: Ministry of Human Resource Development, Government of India Keywords: Dust particle, Nonwoven, Pulse-jet filtration Primary factors which determine the selection of a fabric for a particular application are state of aerosol medium (thermal and chemical condition, static charge on the particles, abrasive particles, moisture in the gas stream etc.), filtration requirement (particle capturing efficiency, pressure drop and cleaning) and equipment consideration. The particle capturing mechanism by fabric filters based on reverse jet cleaning is well researched. A number of studies reveal the effect of fabric structural parameters on its filtration characteristics. Further a number of attempts have been made to improve filtration efficiency with reduced pressure drop and better cake release performance. However, it is worth mentioning that the above studies becoming rudimentary since pulse jet filter has become an attractive option of particulate collection utilities. Pulse jet cleaning is a technique whereby a short, periodic, high pressure burst of air is fired into the clean side of the fabric. The particles are dislodged and the pressure drop falls to an acceptable level. Pulse jet filtration can meet the stringent particulate emission limits regardless of variation in the operating conditions. The cleaning device is less expensive than other type of mechanism and requires considerable less space. Other merits of pulse jet fabric filters are high collection efficiency, on line cleaning application and outside collection which allows the bag maintenance in a clean and safe environment. The increasing adoption of pulse jet filters for control of process emissions and recovery of utility dusts has stimulated research on many aspects of their operation. Despite their wide applications, the functioning of fabric filters is poorly understood. The operating condition is usually specified by the manufacturer at the time of commission. In practice, however, the filtration process frequently undergoes changes in the operating condition caused by the disturbances due to the variation in the concentration of dirty air, variation in particle size etc. Due to the complex characteristics inherent in the filtration and cleaning process of pulse jet bag houses, the proper understanding of the role of fabric construction on filtration is very important.

Research register

43

IJCST 19,6

Generation of such knowledge would represent an important first step towards designing fabric with improved barrier properties.

Project aims and objectives

44

The separation of solids from fluids by textile filter media is an essential part of countless industrial process, contributing to purity of product, saving in energy, improvement in process efficiency, recovery of precious materials and general improvements in pollution control. The dust may create environmental pollution problems or other control difficulties caused by their toxicity, flammability and possible risk of explosion. The particles in question may simply require removal and be of no intrinsic value or alternatively may constitute part of a saleable product, for example, sugar or cement. Among several techniques, the most efficient and versatile is the fabric collector, especially when processing very fine particles. Fabric filtration under pulse jet situation becoming very common in industrial bag house filtration. However, there is lack of study on the role of fabric under the said circumstances. It is also important to develop the fabric suitable for pulse-jet filtration. Therefore, we are having the following objectives: . .

.

Understanding the mechanism of filtration under pulse-jet situation. Studing the effect of geometrical parameter of nonwoven fabric on filtration performance. Design and development of suitable nonwoven fabric under pulse-jet situation.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) Initially the work will be concentrated on studing the impact of structural parameter of nonwoven fabric on its filtration performance in case of cement dust. This will lead to the development of suitable nonwoven fabric under pulse-jet situation in cement industry. At a later stage the work will be extended for optimising fabric design for other dust particles. Publications Not available

Lodz, Poland Technical Univerity of Lodz, Technical University of Lodz, Department of Clothing Technology, Zeromskiego 116 Str, 90-924 Lodz; Tel: +48 042 631 33 21; Fax: +48 042 631 33 20; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Iwona Frydrych Research Staff: Renata Krasowska

Influence of work conditions of the disc take-up on characteristics of lockstitch Other Partners: Academic

Research register

Industrial

None None Project start date: 20.05.2005 Project end date: 19.05.2008 Project budget: 49100 PLN Source of support: Ministry of Science and Higher Education Keywords: Lockstitch, Lockstitch machine formation zone (STS), Thread demand in STS, Thread feed by the take-up The project presents an elaboration of original model simulating a thread movement in the zone of stitch creaction, on the basis of which a mechanism of take-up disc will be built. It will be evaluated in experimental research. The regulating point at this type of take-up will be presented as a novelty. According to this, reactions of the machine operator on the changes of sewing thread properties will be enabled and useful properties of lockstitch will be created. It requires elaborating the set of criteria assessing an action of this type of take-up disc.

Project aims and objectives The aim of the project is testing the working conditions of the disc take-up disc of the sewing thread taking into consideration the development of its construction of regulation points in the relation to existing solutions.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) New construction of mechanism of take-up disc should create possibilities to adjust the parameters of its construction to thread sewing parameters and useful properties of the lockstitch Publications 1. R. Krasowska, I. Frydrych: “Possibilities of modelling the control conditions of thread by the disc takeup in the lockstitch machine”. Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, Vol. 1, 2006. 2. R. Krasowska, I. Frydrych: “Formation of the thread control curve by the disc take-up in the lockstitch machine”. Research Journal of textile and Apparel, 2006.

Loughborough, UK Loughborough University, Environmental Ergonomics Research Centre; Dept. Human Sciences, Loughborough University, Loughborough LE11 3TU; Tel: +44 (0) 1509 223031; Fax: +44 (0) 1509 223940; E-mail: [email protected]

45

IJCST 19,6

Principal Investigator(s): Prof. George Havenith Research Staff: Lucy Dorman

Project title: ‘Thermprotect’, Assessment of thermal properties of Protective clothing and their use

46

Other Partners: Academic

Industrial W.L.Gore

Lund University Sweden; EMPA, Switzerland; TNO, Netherlands; INRS, France; TU-Tampere, Finland; Ifado, Germany Project start date: 2003 Project end date: 2007 (extension) Project budget: 700ke Source of support: European Union Keywords: Clothing heat & mass transfer; Radiation, Wet clothing, Energy use due to clothing, Wind This project focuses on effects of radiation, wind and wetting of clothing layers on the thermal strain experienced in Personal Protective Clothing (PPC) (Work Package 1 and WP2), on special issues with cold weather protective clothing (WP3), and on the impact of protective clothing on the energy consumption of workers (WP4). Heat transfer through PPC with different radiant and moisture transport properties is studied. First on material samples, followed by thermal manikin measurements and finally in a select number of conditions, in human wear trials. Data will be used to derive general models of either analytical (WP1, WP4) or conceptual (WP2) nature of heat transfer through PPC in relation to clothing material properties, climate etc. The last stages of the project focus on the effect of protective clothing on energy use. Most protective clothing increases energy use disproportionally more than the weight would suggest. This effects wearers in terms of work capacity, time to exhaustion and e.g. for firefighters in the time available before the compressed air runs out.

Project aims and objectives .

To improve the representation of clothing in ISO and EN heat and cold stress assessment standards.

.

To get a better understanding of the interaction of moisture and heat transfer. To understand which factors influence the energy requirement increase caused by clothing.

.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) .

.

Data that will be used by standard writers to update the available standards on thermal stress and strain in the workplace. Publications will disseminate information to modellers of heat transfer and industry.

Publications 1. Bro¨de, P., Candas, V., Kuklane, K., den Hartog, E., Havenith, G., Bro¨de, P., Candas, V., den Hartog, E., Griefahn, B., Havenith, G., Holme´r, I., Meinander, H., Nocker, W. and Richards, M., “Effects of heat radiation on the heat exchange with protective clothing – a thermal manikin study”, Central Institute for Labour Protection – National Research Institute, 3rd European Conference on Protective Clothing (ECPC), Poland, May 2006, ISBN: 83-7373-097-4. 2. Bro¨de, P., Kuklane, K., den Hartog, E. and Havenith, G., “Infrared radiation effects on heat loss measured by a thermal manikin wearing protective clothing”, Environmental Ergonomics XI, Proceedings of the 11th International Conference, Ystad, Sweden, May 2005, pp. 74-79. 3. Dorman, L. and Havenith, G., “The Influence of clothing weight and bulk on metabolic rate when wearing protective clothing”, The Third International Conference on Human-Environmental System ICHES’ 05, Tokyo, Japan, September 2005, pp. 439-443. 4. Dorman, L., Havenith, G., Bro¨de, P., Candas, V., den Hartog, E., Havenith, G., Holme´r, I., Meinander, H., Nocker, W. and Richards, M., “Modelling the metabolic effects of protective clothing”, Central Institute for Labour Protection – National Research Institute, 3rd European Conference on Protective Clothing (ECPC), Poland, May 2006, ISBN: 83-7373-097-4. 5. Fukazawa, T., den Hartog, E.A., Daanen, H.A.M., Penders-van-Elk, N., Tochihara, Y. and Havenith, G., “radiant heat transfer network in the simulated protective clothing system under high heat flux”, The Third International Conference on Human-Environment System ICHES’ 05, Tokyo, Japan, September 2005, pp. 435-438. 6. Fukazawa, T., den Hartog, E.A., Daanen, H.A.M., Tochihara, Y. and Havenith, G., “Water vapour transfer in the simulated protective clothing system with exposure to intensive solar radiation”, The Third International Conference on Human-Environment System ICHES’ 05, Tokyo, Japan, 2005, pp. 202-205. 7. Gao, C., Holme´r, I., Fan, J., Wan, X., Wu, J.Y.S. and Havenith, G., “The Comparison of thermal properties of protective clothing using dry and sweating manikins”, Central Institute for Labour Protection – National Research Institute, 3rd European Conference on Protective Clothing, Poland, May 2006, ISBN: 83-7373-097-4. 8. Havenith G. “Clothing heat exchange models for research and application”, The 11th International Conference on Environmental Ergonomics, Ystad, Sweden; Proceedings published as Environmental Ergonomics 2005. Editors I Holme´r, K Kuklane and C Gao. Lund University, Lund, Sweden, ISBN 91631-7062-0, pp. 66-73. 9. Havenith, G., “Clothing heat exchange models for research and application”, Environmental Ergonomics XI, Proceedings of the 11th International Conference, Ystad, Sweden, May 2005, pp 66-73, ISSN 1650-9773. 10. Havenith, G., Wang, X, den Hartog, V.E., Griefahn, B., Holme´r, I., Meinander, H. and Richards, M., “Interaction effects of radiation and convection measured by a thermal manikin wearing protective clothing with different radiant properties”, The Third International Conference on HumanEnvironmental System ICHES 05, Tokyo, Japan, September 2005, pp. 47-50. 11. Havenith, G., Wang, X., Richards, M., Bro¨de, P., Candas, V., den Hartog, E., Holme´r, I., Meinander, H. and Nocker, W., “Evaporative cooling in protective clothing”, Central Institute for Labour Protection – National Research Institute, 3rd European Conference on Protective Clothing (ECPC), Poland, May 2006, ISBN: 83-7373-097-4. 12. Kuklane, K., Gao, C., Holme´r, I., Broede, P., Candas, V., den Hartog, E., Havenith, G., Holme´r, I., Meinander, H. and Richards, M., “Effects of natural solar radiation on manikin heat exchange”, Central Institute for Labour Protection – National Research Institute, 3rd European Conference on Protective Clothing (ECPC), Poland, May 2006, ISBN: 83-7373-097-4. 13. Dorman L., Havenith G. and Thermprotect Network, “The effects of protective clothing on metabolic rate”, The 11th International Conference On Environmental Ergonomics, Ystad, Sweden; Proceedings published as Environmental Ergonomics 2005. Editors Holme´r I., Kuklane K. and Gao C. Lund University, Lund, Sweden, 2005, ISBN 91-631-7062-0, pp. 82-85.

Research register

47

IJCST 19,6

48

14. Bro¨de P., Kuklane K., den Hartog E., Havenith G. and Thermprotect Network, “Infrared radiation effects on heat loss measured by a thermal manikin wearing protective clothing”, The 11th International Conference On Environmental Ergonomics, Ystad, Sweden; Proceedings published as Environmental Ergonomics 2005. Editors Holme´r I., Kuklane K. and Gao C. Lund University, Lund, Sweden, 2005.ISBN 91-631-7062-0, pp. 74-78. 15. Richards M., Rossi R., Havenith G., Richards M., Candas V., Meinander H., Broede P., Candas V., den Hartog E., Havenith G., Holme´r I., Meinander H. and Nocker W., “Dry and wet heat transfer through protective clothing dependent on the clothing properties and climatic conditions”, Central Institute for Labour Protection – National Research Institute, 3rd European Conference on Protective Clothing (ECPC), Poland, May 2006, ISBN: 83-7373-097-4. 16. van Es E.M., den Hartog E.A., Broede P., Candas V., Heus R., Havenith G., Holme´r I., Meinander H., Nocker W. and Richards M., “Effects of short wave radiation and radiation area on human heat strain in reflective and non- reflective protective clothing”, Central Institute for Labour Protection – National Research Institute, 3rd European Conference on Protective Clothing (ECPC), Poland, May 2006, ISBN: 83-7373-097-4. 17. Kuklane K., Gao C., Holme´r I., Giedraityte L., Bro¨de P., Candas V., den Hartog E., Meinander H., Richards M. and Havenith G., “Calculation of clothing insulation by serial and parallel methods: effects on clothing choice by IREQ and thermal responses in the cold”, International Journal of Occupational Safety and Ergonomics (JOSE) 2007, Vol. 13, No. 2, pp. 103–116. 18. Dorman L. and Havenith G., “Protective clothing and its effects on range of movement”, Proceedings International Conference on Environmental Ergonomics, 2007, Mekjavic S. and Taylor (eds). 19. Bro¨de P., Havenith G., Wang X. and Thermprotect network, “Non-evaporative effects of a wet mid layer on heat transfer through protective clothing”, Proceedings International Conference on Environmental Ergonomics, 2007, Mekjavic S. and Taylor (eds). 20. den Hartog E.A., Broede P., Candas V. and Havenith G., “Effect of clothing insulation on attenuation of radiative heat gain”, Proceedings International Conference on Environmental Ergonomics, 2007, Mekjavic S. and Taylor (eds). 21. Kuklane K., Gao C., Holme´r I., Bro¨de P., Candas V., den Hartog E., Havenith G., Meinander H. and Richards M., “Physiological responses at 10 and 25
c in wet and dry underwear in permeable and impermeable coveralls”, Proceedings International Conference on Environmental Ergonomics, 2007, Mekjavic S. and Taylor (eds). 22. Kuklane K., Gao C., Holme´r I., Broede P., Candas V., den Hartog E., Havenith G., Meinander H. and Richards M., “Validation of insulation and evaporative resistance calculations based on manikin and human tests”, Proceedings International Conference on Environmental Ergonomics, 2007, Mekjavic S. and Taylor (eds).

Manchester, UK Manchester Metropolitan University, Department of Clothing Design and Technology, Hollings Campus, Old Hall Lane, Manchester M14 6HR; Tel: +44 161 246 2676; Fax: +44 161 247 6329; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Dr Jess Power and Dr Rose Otieno Research Staff: T.B.C.

Anthropometrical Data in Knitted garments Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

MIRIAD

T.B.C.

Project start date: 30 September 2006 Project end date: 30 August 2007 Project budget: £36732 Source of support: MIRIAD / Department (internal funding) Keywords: Knitted garments Anthropometrical Knitted garments and the relating technologies have advanced immensely during the last decade especially in the areas of fully fashioning (integral shaping) and complete garment production. Various new techniques have become available in modern knitting machinery including microprocessor-controlled mechatronic systems for needle selection and fabric take down systems, as well as automated loop transferring. These technologies have enabled knitwear to be shaped three-dimensionally as not previously achievable through the sophisticated CAD software that generates pattern and control during knitting. Despite this advancement in programming software and electronic needle selection, garment development is still heavily reliant on the skill of the operator or designer to develop new shapes and manipulate this advanced technology into innovative knitwear. This advance in technology has opened up a large knowledge gap with regards to fit and styling within knitwear, and many questions have arisen; Do we really understand the relationship between anthropometrical data and knitwear sizing, styling and fit and do we utilise the knowledge effectively to enable predictions of fit to occur? In previous research it was found that many new knitwear developments are based on empirical knowledge utilising the trial and error approach to develop styles with good fit which conform to the human figure and the theoretical application is very much lacking. This suggests that there is a void caused by the lacking of theoretical data and a knowledge gap between the relationship of anthropometrics and knitwear development. It is vital to assist the industry by providing a sound theoretical understand in order to minimise time wasted utilising the trial and error approach which appears to be considered the current industry norm. In addition to the strong technical justification for the project investigation regarding the use of anthropometrical data in knitwear development, there is evidence that during resent years knitwear has become a key fashion item, a greater percentage of a clothing range in retail outlets are knitwear based. It has also been acknowledged that the individual knitwear manufacturers are placing much more emphasis on the development of new shapes that conform to the human form. However, there is an uncertainty regarding how much of this is derived from empirical development and the quantity that has a sound theoretical framework grounded in anthropometrical studies.

Project aims and objectives .

A thorough literature search to determine the key players; and establish knowledge gaps in relation to the use of anthropometrical data in knitwear sizing.

.

Intense market research collating knitwear sizing and anthropometrical data.

.

Through visits, interviews will be conducted with five key manufacturers to evaluate the current industry standards in relation to knitwear sizing and the usage of anthropometrical data.

Research register

49

IJCST 19,6

.

.

50

Using laboratory based procedures analysis will occur by scientific evaluation into the current grading procedures in knitted garments, to determine the current industry standards. Devise a database of anthropometrical information related to knitwear styles and sizing.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) It is thus proposed to conduct investigation through a research project into the use and understanding of anthropometrical data in knitted garments. This will occur in the form of a study into the development and production of current knitted goods by primary research involving extensive practical observation by scientific means. This will result in the analysis of four basic stylelines in a variety of sizing codes. In addition it is proposed that five UK knitwear manufacturers will contribute information regarding their internal knowledge of the use of anthropometrical data within their current knitwear developments. The second part of the study will involve the collating of information gained from the scientific observation and the primary research from the knitwear manufacturers. A Research Assistant funded entirely by the project will conduct the extensive laboratory observational research to enable the research outputs to be achieved. Publications

This research is grounded in previous postgraduate work and will expand on the department’s current research portfolio within anthropometrics and knitwear. The output will be in two phases: Phase 1 . .

Publication to outline the initial findings of the background study. A conference presentation based on the findings of the primary investigation.

Phase 2 . A framework for further research in the form of scholarly activity. .

Development of a short course to relate the findings directly back to the industry.

Maribor, Slovenia University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Smetanova ulica 16, SI-2000 Maribor, Slovenia, Tel: +386 2 220 7960; Fax: +386 2 220 7990; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Dr sc. Jelka Gersˇak Research Staff: Research Unit Clothing Engineering

Clothing Engineering and Textile Materials Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None

None

Project start date: 01 January 2004 Project end date: 11 December 2008 Project budget: 75.000 ECU for 2006 Source of support: Slovenian Research Agency Keywords: Clothing, Fabric, Fabric mechanics, Behaviour, Comfort, Prediction The research programme is based on complex research of woven fabric mechanics, matter properties and the relation of matter properties and the parameters of thermalphysiological comfort. It is subdivided into three thematically connected parts, which included: a) basic investigations of the mechanics of woven fabrics as complex textile structures, b) modellling the behaviour of complex textile structures, and c) characterising the parameters of thermal-physiological comfort. The first part of activities is based on the knowledge of mechanical laws of fabric behaviour at low loads and is aimed at defining the quality properties of garment form appearance. Fabric behaviour from the point of view of mechanics in processing from a plane into a 3D garment shape is determined, the importance of individual parameters of mechanical and physical properties is evaluated and a knowledge basis used to predict garment appearance is constructed. Based on the laws defined and appearance quality factors, we have developed the “Intelligent system for predicting garment appearance quality”, called InSyPrGAQ, or InSiNaKVO by Slovenian acronym. InSiNaKVO system is designed using the method of machine learning and represents an innovation – the first effective tool for objective evaluation and prediction of the degree of garment appearance quality. The system is based on the ratio among the parameters of mechanical and physical properties and the degree of garment appearance quality, and it is aimed at predicting the degree of garment appearance quality on the basis of the parameters of mechanical and physical properties of the fabrics built into the garment evaluated. It offers: . objective evaluation of the garment appearance quality degree; .

.

predicting five key factors of garment appearance quality degree: garment drape or fall, 3D form, fitting, the quality of the seams and garment appearance quality as a whole; planning the target degree of garment appearance quality;

.

predicting garment appearance quality degree for particular fabrics in a direct manufacturing process; and

.

planning the parameters of fabric mechanical and physical properties for the target degree of garment appearance quality.

The second part of activities involving modelling complex textile structures deals with continuation of the investigations of complex fabric deformations, with the accent on studying rheological models. Fabric relaxation is here studies from the point of view of mechanical multi-component models, which are able to describe in a satisfactory manner deformation and relaxation processes in fabrics, this being the starting point for numerical modelling of fabric behaviour, fabrics being complex textile structures. The third part of investigations deals with the characterisation of thermalphysiological comfort parameters. Comprehensive research of heat transfer and

Research register

51

IJCST 19,6

52

flow, as well as thermoregulation, together with the investigations of textile material properties have been performed. Investigations of matter properties and specific requirements imposed on textile materials of a particular target group have been performed for convetional and functional fabrics, as well as for the combinations, aimed at planning garment systems of business suits. The research is organised at three levels. The first includes investigations of thermal-physiological parameters on so called sweating cylinder for the selected fabrics and combinations of the planned garment systems (This research was performed in SmartWearLab of the Tampere University of Technology). The sweating cylinder simulates the functioning of human body allowing heat flow through the textiles or combination of textiles tested, as well as water vapour flow (the process of sweating), employing numerous sweat glands on the cylinder surface, which provide, i.e. transport particular amount of water to the surface. The purpose of the experiment is to establish the best combinastion of textile fabrics, such that could grant the required thermalphysiological comfort to the wearer. The second part of the research is aimed at evaluating and testing the business garment system by using a sweating thermal manikin, that simulates heat and moisture production in a similar way to the human body and measures the influence of garment system on heat exchange in different environmental and sweating conditions. The third level of the investigations includes evaluating and testing garment systems, empoloying testing persons under artificially designed weather conditions in a computer-controlled chamber. The results to be obtained will influence the characterisation of the thermal-physiological comfort parameters. It will be used to design a numeric simulation of heat exchange between the body and the garment, e.g. other textile products and the environment.

Project aims and objectives The main objectives of this project are as follows: .

To define the relationships between fabric mechanical properties and quality of a produced garment.

.

To develop a model for prediction of garment appearance quality.

.

To set-up a model of fabric behaviour as shell. To systematically investigate the parameters of thermophysiological comfort.

. .

To develop a numerical simulation of heat exchange between the human body and garment system or other textiles products and environment.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) The research programme is systematically designed so as to result in the knowledge that could be used in establishing and engineering concept of garment and/or other textile product planning particularly the so called “knowledge-based products”. The results have partially been made applicable through the development of the InSiNaKVO system, the main characteristics of which are as follows: (a) knowledgebased designing and predicting garment appearance quality degree, using known fabric mechanical and physical properties (b) planning fabric mechanical and physical

properties so as to get the target garment quality level, and (c) tools to simulate the degree of garment quality. Publications Gersˇak, J. (2004), “Study of relationship between fabric elastic potential and garment appearance quality”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 16, Nos. 1/2, pp. 238-251. Zavec Pavlinic´, D., Gersˇak, J. (2004), “Vrednovanje kakvoc´e izgleda odjec´e”, Tekstil, Vol. 53, No. 10, pp. 497-509. Jevsˇnik, S., Gersˇak, J., Gubensˇek, I. (2005), “ The advance engineering methods to plan the behaviour of fused panel”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 17, Nos 3/4, pp. 161-170. Gersˇak, J., Sˇajn, D., Bukosˇek, V. (2005), “A study of the relaxation phenomena in the fabrics containing elastane yarns”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 17 Nos 3/4, pp. 188-199. Tama´s, P., Gersˇak, J., Hala´sz, M. (2006), “Sylview 3D Drape Tester – New system for measuring fabric drape”, Tekstil, Vol. 55, No. 10, pp. 497-509. Zavec Pavlinic´, D., Gersˇak, J., Demsˇar, J., Bratko, I. (2006), “Predicting seam appearance quality”, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 76 No. 3, pp. 235-242. Sˇajn, D., Gersˇak, J., Flajs, R. (2006), “Prediction of stress relaxation of fabrics with increased elasticity”, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 76, No. 10, pp. 742-750. Gersˇak, J., Marcˇicˇ, M. (2006), “Development of a mathematical model for the heat transfer of the system man – clothing – environment”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 19, Nos 3/4, pp. 234-241. Gersˇak, J., Marcˇicˇ, M. (2006), “Thermophysiological comfort”, Book of Proceedings of the 1st International workshop Design – Innovation – Development, Iasi, 24-27 July, pp. 143-147. Gersˇak, J., Zavec Pavlinic´, D. (2006), “Garment appearance quality as aesthetic function of clothes”, Annals of DAAAM for 2006 & Proceedings of the 17th International DAAAM symposium “Intelligent manufacturing & Automation: “Focus on mechatronics and robotics”, Vienna, Austria 8-11-November. Gersˇak, J. (2006), “Thermophysiological comfort of the driver”, Book of Papers of 2nd International Material Conference TEXCO, Ruzˇomberok, Slovakia, 17-18 August. Gersˇak, J., Marcˇicˇ, M. (2006), “Modeling the heat transfer of the system man – clothing – environment”, Book of Proceedings of 3rd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference ITC&DC, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 8-11 October. Zavec Pavlinic´, D., Gersˇak, J. (2006), “Garment appearance quality: from subjective estimation to objective evaluation”, Book of Proceedings of 3rd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference ITC&DC, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 8-11 October. Zavec Pavlinic´, D., Gersˇak, J. (2007), “The advanced method for the evaluation of garment appearance quality grade”, Proceedings of 7th Annual Textile Conference by AUTEX, Tampere, Finland, 26-28 June.

Maribor, Slovenia University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Smetanova ulica 16, SI-2000 Maribor, Slovenia, Tel: +386 2 220 7960; Fax: +386 2 220 7990; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Dr sc. Jelka Gersˇak Research Staff: Prof. Dr Vili Bukosˇek, Dr Dunja Sˇajn, MSc. Rozalija Blekacˇ

Research register

53

IJCST 19,6

54

Study of the relationship between deformation and relaxation of fabrics containing elastane yarns in the spreading process Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

ELKROJ, modna oblacˇila d.d., Nazarje University od Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles Project start date: July 2004 Project end date: June 2007 Project budget: 17.000 ECU for 2006 Source of support: Slovenian Research Agency Keywords: Fabrics containing elastane, Relaxation phenomena, Stress relaxation, Deformation, Spreading process In textile materials subjected to the impact of tensile force deformations appear in the form of increasing the length in the direction of force impact. After the relaxation because of a typical viscoelastic properties one part of deformation disappears immediately (elastic deformation), the other part disappears with time (elastic deformation retained) and the remaining part stays behind as a durable and irreversible deformation. The aim of the research project is to study the elastic behaviour of fabrics with elastane yarns taking into account the elastic potential, elastic deformations and relaxation ability based on the study of fabric mechanics, with the purpose to gain new cognition about the relationship between elastic deformations and relaxation phenomena in such fabric type. The main part of the research is focused on the study of elastic deformations and relaxation phenomena in fabrics with elastane yarns, where the influence of the parameters of tensional-elastic properties of such fabrics on elastic deformations and relaxation level will be investigated taking into account loading intensity. Special attention is given to the study of time dependence of relaxation phenomena in fabrics with elastane yarns and special relaxation conditions of such fabrics during spreading and laying into fabric layers, i.e., influence of the length, surface friction between fabric layers and number of layers. For this purpose the stress relaxation during witholding under constant deformations and the relaxation of fabrics after manually unwinding and spreading were studied. The relaxation of fabrics represents as elastic recovery and response of fabric as the result of loading during winding and spreading to form by lay. Based on given results of relaxation of fabric as the consequence of winding process was found that with higher percentage of containing elastane in the yarn grows the degree of deformation. The investigation results show also an important influence of the elastane yarn construction on relaxation phenomena in fabrics.

Project aims and objectives The main objectives od this research are as follows: .

To find the correlation between the elastic deformation and relaxation level in fabrics with elastane yarns.

.

To set up the model for predicting the relaxation of fabrics taking into account the parameters of fabric’s tensional-elastic properties, parameters of the spreading process, as well as the length and number of fabric layers.

Research register

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) . .

New knowledge of the elastic behaviour of fabrics with elastane yarns. The model for predicting the relaxation of fabrics with elastane yarns.

Publications Gersˇak, J., Sˇajn, D., Bukosˇek, V. (2005), “A study of the relaxation phenomena in the fabrics containing elastane yarns”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 17, Nos 3/4, pp. 188-199. Sˇajn, D., Gersˇak, J., Bukosˇek, V., Nikolic´, M. (2005), “Utjecaj konstrukcije prede s elastanom na relaksacijska svojstva tkanina”, Tekstil, Vol. 54, No. 10, pp. 489-496. Sˇajn, D., Gersˇak, J., Flajs, R. (2006), “Prediction of stress relaxation of fabrics with increased elasticity”, Textile Research Journal, Vol. 76 No. 10, pp. 742-750.

Nottingham, UK University of Nottingham, School of Mechanical, Materials & Manufacturing Engineering, University Park, Nottingham NG7 2RD, Tel: 0115 9513779; Fax: 0115 9513800; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): C. D. Rudd, A. C. Long, R. Brooks, I. A. Jones, S. J. Pickering, N. A. Warrior, M. J. Clifford, C. A. Scotchford, G. S. Walker Research Staff: H. Lin, L. Harper, R. R. H. Naqasha

Platform Grant: Processing and Performance of Textile Composites Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None None Project start date: 1 February 2005 Project end date: 31 January 2009 Project budget: £445k Source of support: EPSRC Keywords: Textile composites, Unit cell analysis, TexGen Our current research portfolio is centred on the processing of polymer matrix composites with a growing emphasis on modelling and simulation. Given our high level of interest in textile-based composites and their growing importance in the field, we wish to introduce a common platform for our modelling studies based on our formalised textile

55

IJCST 19,6

56

generator (TexGen). Textile modelling provides a launchpad for downstream simulation of processing, damage mechanics and environmental performance. The functionality of our existing TexGen software will be extended and coupled to materials models for simulation of each of the above aspects of physical behaviour. Simulation of each of the physical processes will be enhanced by a common, interchangeable geometric definition of the textile structure within the rigid composite. This will enable a rapid understanding of fabric architecture effects to be built and the approach has excellent potential for application to other physical problems which relate to rigid and flexible composites or technical textiles. The platform grant application seeks continuity of support for key workers during the period of this development. Further details are available at: www.textiles.nottingham.ac.uk

Project aims and objectives .

Implement an approach based on textile modelling throughout our research portfolio, integrating the multiple streams of processing, energy management, biomedical applications and textile modelling.

.

Develop a series of downstream models relating to: three-dimensional permeability, formability (including shear compliance), static mechanical properties, damage mechanics and residual property estimation, diffusion and environmental degradation. Exploit the potential of the platform grant to raise our international profile, develop strategic links with other leading groups, and enhance our technology transfer activities.

.

Publications Not available

Ohtsu-City, Japan SCI-TEX, 12-15, hanazono-cho, Ohtsu-city, 520-0222 Japan, Tel: + 81 77 572 3332; Fax: + 81 77 572 3332; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Tatsuki Matsuo

Propagation of knowledge on new textile science and technology Other Partners: Academic None Project start date: Project budget: Source of support:

Industrial None Project end date:

Keywords: Advanced technical textiles, Knowledge propagation The importance of advanced technical textiles has increased in the textile industry of developed countries. In addition, R & D on nano-technologies and electric-textiles are now intensively carried out. In this situation, propagation of knowledge on new textile science and technology must be meaningful. This project is being conducted individually by T. Matsuo through symposium lectures, journal articles, monographic books. Publications Not available

Patras, Greece University of Patras, University of Patras, Mechanical Engineering & Aeronautics Department, Robotics Group, 26500, Rio, Patras, Tel: +302610997268; Fax: +302610997212; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Nikos Aspragathos (Project Coordinator), Evangelos Dermatas (Associate Professor), Emmanouil Psarakis (Assistant Professor) Research Staff: Panagiotis N. Koustoumpardis (Technical Researcher); George Zoumponos (PhD Student); Paraskevi Zacharia (PhD Student); Ioannis Mariolis (PhD Student); Ioannis Chatzis (PhD Student); George Evangelidis (PhD Student)

Handling of non-rigid materials with robots. Application in robotic sewing (XROMA) Other Partners: Academic (1) Mechanical Engineering & Aeronautics Department, University of Patras; (2) Department of Electrical & Computer Engineering, University of Patras; (3) Department of Computer Engineering & Informatics, University of Patras

Industrial (1) ELKEDE – Technology & Design Centre, Athens, Greece

Project start date: 26 May 2003 Project end date: 25 May 2007 Project budget: e220,103 Source of support: General Secretariat for Research and Technology, Hellenic Republic Ministry of Development

Research register

57

IJCST 19,6

58

Keywords: Fabric handling, Artificial intelligence, Intelligent control, Robotic handling for sewing, Robotic sewing, Fabric properties, Quality control, Seam quality, Color matching The main concept and purpose of this project is the development of a robotic workcell for sewing fabrics. The research work deals with the handling and the quality control of fabrics and cloths in garment assembly. The project is focused in the fabric handling tasks: ply separation, translation, placement, folding, feeding and orientation for sewing. Sensor fusion, fuzzy logic, neural networks and machine learning techniques are used for controlling the robotic grippers and the applied forces for intelligent fabric handling. The quality control system is based on machine vision for detecting the fabric’s defects and color matching as well as for inspecting the seams’ quality. Each of the experimental stage sub-system devices are individually tested and at the end would be integrated to form a workcell. In addition, the project provides a new researchers training program, concerning the technology of automated handling of non-rigid materials and the technology of cloth making. The results will be demonstrated and disseminated to national cloth making industries – SME’s, and published to international journals. This is a joint project, where three Departments of the University of Patras and the ELKEDE – Technology & Design Centre are involved. Mechanical, Electrical and Computer Engineers are cooperated to integrate the automated handling and quality control system.

Project aims and objectives The main aim of this project is to develop new intelligent methods for the robotic handling of non-rigid materials, seam quality control and fabric color matching. The innovative approaches are based on sensor fusion and artificial intelligent techniques: Fuzzy Logic, Neural Networks and Genetic Algorithms. The objectives: . Training new researchers in the technology of automated handling of non-rigid materials and the technology of the cloth making industry. . Development of intelligent algorithms for fabric handling strategies, color matching and seam quality. .

.

.

Development of experimental intelligent mechatronic devices, for separatinghandling-translating-inspecting fabrics, in order to test the intelligent algorithms in laboratory conditions. Development and test an integrated experimental system for the robotic sewing and the fabric quality control. To demonstrate the results (acquired knowledge and experimental devices) in garment assembly.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) Five PhD dissertations A laboratory prototype system of the robotic garment assembly Two Technical reports

Publications Journals: Panagiotis N. Koustoumpardis, Nikos A. Aspragathos, (2003), “Fuzzy Logic Decision Mechanism Combined with a Neuro-Controller for Fabric Tension in Robotized Sewing Process”, Journal of Intelligent and Robotics Systems, Vol. 36, No. 1, pp. 65-88. Zacharia, P.Th., Aspragathos, N.A. (2005), “Optimal task scheduling based on Genetic Algorithms”, Robotics and Computer-Integrated Manufacturing, Vol. 21, No. 1, pp. 67-79. Panagiotis, N., Koustoumpardis, J.S., Fourkiotis, Nikos, A., Aspragathos, “Robotized Measurement and Intelligent Evaluation of Fabrics’ Extensibility – Tensile Test”, submitted for publication to the International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology. Karybali, I.G., Berberidis, K., Psarakis, E.Z., Evangelidis, G.D., “An Efficient Spatial Domain Technique for Subpixel Image Registration, submitted for publication to the IEEE Transactions on Image Processing. Zoumponos, G.T., Aspragathos, N.A., “Fuzzy Logic Path Planning for the Robotic Placement of Fabrics on a Work Table” submitted for publication to the Robotics and Computer-Integrated Manufacturing Journal. Furthermore, five papers are under preparation and will be submitted to international journals soon. Conferences: Zacharia, P.Th., Aspragathos, N.A. (2004), “Optimization of industrial Manipulators Cycle Time Based on Genetic Algorithms”, pp. 517-522, 2nd IEEE International Conference on Industrial Informatics INDIN’04, 24-26 June, Berlin, Germany. Koustoumpardis, P.N., Aspragathos, N.A., (2004), “A Review of Gripping Devices for Fabric Handling”, International Conference on Intelligent Manipulation and Grasping IMG04, Genova, Italy, ISBN 88 900 426-1-3, pp. 229-234, July. Zoumponos, G.T., Aspragathos, N.A. (2004) “Design of a robotic air-jet gripper for destacking fabrics”, IMG ‘04, pp. 241-246, Genova, Italy, July. Ioannis C., Evangelos, D., (2004), “Semi blind gamma correction”, 1st International Conference “From Scientific Computing to Computational Engineering”, Athens, 8-10 September. Mariolis, I., Dermatas, E., (2004), “Robust Detection of Seam Lines using the Radon Transform”, 1st International Conference “From Scientific Computing to Computational Engineering”, Athens, 8-10 September. Zoumponos, G.T., Aspragathos, N.A. (2005), “A fuzzy robot controller for the placement of fabrics on a work table”, IFAC World Congress, Prague, 4-8 July. Zacharia, P.Th., Mariolis, I.G., Aspragathos, N.A., Dermatas, E.S., (2005), “Visual servoing of a robotic manipulator based on fuzzy logic control for handling fabric lying on a table”, 1st I*PROMS Virtual International Conference on Intelligent Production Machines and Systems, IPROMS 2005, 4-15 July, pp.411-416. Psarakis, E.Z., Evangelidis, G.D., (2005), “An enhanced Correlation-Based Method for Stereo Correspondence with Subpixel Accuracy’’ 10th IEEE Int. Conf. On Computer Vision, October, Beijing, China Karybali, I.G., Psarakis, E.Z., Berberidis, K., Evangelidis, G.D., (2006), “Spatial Domain for Image Registration with Subpixel Accuracy, submitted to European Signal Processing Conf. (EUSIPCO), (accepted). Ioannis, S.C., Dermatas, E.S., (2006), “Non-parametric Estimation of camera response function”, 13th IEEE MELECON, 16-19 May 2006 (accepted in journal preselection). Koustoumpardis, P.N., Zoumponos, G.T., Zacharia, P.Th., Mariolis, I.G., Xatzis, I., Evagelidis, G., Zabetakis, A., (2006), “Handling of Non-Rigid Materials with Robots (XROMA), Application in Robotic Sewing”, 37th International Symposium on Novelties in Textiles, Ljubljana, Slovenia, 15-17 June. Mariolis, I., Dermatas, E., (2006) “Automated quality control of textile seams based on puckering evaluation”, 37th International Symposium on Novelties in Textiles, Ljubljana, Slovenia, 15-17 June.

Research register

59

IJCST 19,6

60

Zacharia, P.Th., Mariolis, I.G., Aspragathos, N.A., Dermatas, E.S., (2006), “Visual servoing controller for robot handling fabrics of curved edges”, I*PROMS NoE Virtual International Conference on Intelligent Production Machines and Systems, 3-14 July. Ioannis, C., Gavrilis, D., Dermatas, E. (2006), “Spectral characterization of digital cameras using genetic algorithms”, IPROMS 2006 3-14 July. Ioannis, S.C., Kappatos, V.A., Dermatas, E.S., (2006), “Filter selection for multi-spectral image acquisition using the feature vector analysis method”, IPROMS 2006 3-14 July. Dimitris, G., Ioannis, S.C., Evangelos, D., (2006), “Detection of Web Denial-of-Service Attacks using decoy hyperlinks”, Communication Systems, Networks And Digital Signal Processing (CSNDSP’06), 19-21 July 2006, Patras Univ. Conference Centre, Patras, Greece. Zacharia, P.Th., Mariolis, I.G., Aspragathos, N.A., Dermatas, E.S., (2006), “Polygonal approximation of fabrics with curved edges based on Genetic Algorithms for robot handling towards sewing”, to be presented in CIRP, 25-28 July, Ischia, Italy. Zacharia, P., Zoumponos, G., Koustoumpardis, P., Zampetakis, A., Aspragathos, N., (2006), “Robot handling of non-rigid materials for the sewing process”, to be presented in ITCDC 2006, 8-11 October 2006, Dubrovnik, Croatia.

Pisa, Italy University of Pisa, Via Diotisalvi, 2, 56126 Pisa, Italy, Tel: +39 0502217053; Fax: +39 0502217051; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Danilo De Rossi Research Staff: Post doc researchers, PhD students, post graduate students.

FLEXIFUNBAR Multifunctional barrier for flexible structure (textile, leather and paper) Other Partners: Academic Brunel University, Pisa University, Centro Di Cultura per l’ingegneria delle Materie Pastiche, Ghent University, Queen’s University of Belfast, DWI – Aachen, Institut Pasteur de Lille, Institute of Natural Fibres – Poznan

Industrial Alan, Amkey Management, Annebergs, Arjo Wiggins, Basilius, Calsta, CEI, Centexbel, Centro Tecnologico do Calcado, Clotefi, Clubtex, CREPIM, Curtumes Aveneda, Devan, DG Tec, Duflot, ECCO, Gleittechnik, Europlasma, IFTH, IMP Comfort, INCA, IQAP, Lauffenmu¨ hle, Linificio, Nabaltec, Nylstar, Patraiki, Procotex, Siamidis, Sinterama, Subrenat, Sveriges Provnings, Telice, Thrakika Ekkokistiria, Traitex, VTT, Wellman International.

Project start date: 1 October 2004 Project end date: 30 November 2008 Project budget: Total amount: e6,438,995 (University of Pisa: e343,000) Source of support: European Commission Keywords: Multifunctional, Barrier, Textile, Fiber, Flexible, Leather, Paper

All citizens are permanently protected by flexible structures with barrier noise and thermal insulation, shield against electrostatic or electromagnetic phenomena, filtration of dust or insects.. The application of flexible structure is very large thanks to their easy adapting properties and shape. Nevertheless, they will maximise the level of safety in building, transportation and to ensure the well-being of European citizens, The flexible structures, generally based on paper, leather or textile are usually treated to serve only one barrier effect.Ires a whole re-design of flexible structure functions that is the main purpose of FLEXIFUNBAR. For instance to prevent from all external aggressions in hazardous atmosphere, flexible structure must provide at least barrier effects. The ultimate goal of flexifunbar initiative is to develop innovative generation of hybrid multi barrier-effects materials, based on multi layer complex structures and funcionnalisation of micro and nanostructures.The development of such materials covers a large range of applications: . Transportation: filter, thermal and acoustic insulation panel, pollutant detectors. .

Home and building: wall covering, home furniture, carbon monoxide detectors, antibacterial mattress, electromagnetic insulation panels.

.

Health: protection of people against insects, protective clothing for military and defense, hygiene mask, operation area.

Project aims and objectives The innovation of Flexifunbar lies in the principle of associating in one same material several functionalities: Heat insulation, acoustic insulation, shielding against electromagnetic waves, anti odours, anti bacterial, flame retardancy. . . The objective of Flexifunbar is to develop and promote multi-functional flexible structure for use in many multisectorial industrial applications in the health field as well as in the building construction and transportation industrie..

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) New fiber, textile, leather and paper samples with multifunctional barrier properties Publications Not available

Pisa, Italy “E. Piaggio” Centre – University of Pisa, Via Diotisalvi, 2, 56126 Pisa, Italy, Tel: +39 0502217053; Fax: +39 0502217051; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Danilo De Rossi

Research register

61

IJCST 19,6

62

Research Staff: Prof. Roger Fuoco; Prof. Arti Ahluwalia; Dr Fabio DI Francesco; Dr Thoas Schafer

BIOTEX: Bio-sensing textiles to support health management Other Partners: Academic Dublin City University(Ireland), University of Pisa (Italy)

Industrial CSEM Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique SA (Switzerland), CEA Commissariat a` l’Energie Atomique (France), Smartex s.r.l. (Italy), Thuasne (France), Penelope SpA (Italy), Sofileta (France)

Project start date: 01 September 2005 Project end date: 29 September 2008 Project budget: Total amount: e3.108.029 (eligible cost) – Requested EC Contribution: e1.900.000 University of Pisa quote: 255.750,00 Source of support: European Commission Integration of health monitoring tools into textiles brings the benefits of safety and comfort to the users. Instrumented clothes will provide remote monitoring of vitals signs, diagnostics to improve early illness detection and metabolic disorder and benefits to the reduction on medical social costs to the citizen. Ambulatory healthcare, isolated people, convalescent people and patients with chronic diseases are addressed. To date, developments in that field are mainly focused on physiological measurements (body temperature, electro-cardiogram, electromyogram, breath rhythm, etc.) with first applications targeting sport monitoring and prevention of cardiovascular risk. Biochemical measurements on body fluids will be needed to tackle very important health and safety issues.

Project aims and objectives The BIOTEX project aims at developing dedicated biochemical-sensing techniques compatible with integration into textile. This goal represents a complete breakthrough, which allows for the first time the monitoring of body fluids via sensors distributed on a textile substrate and performing biochemical measurements. BIOTEX is addressing the sensing part and its electrical or optical connection to a signal processor. The approach aims at developing sensing patches, adapted to different targeted body fluids and biological species to be monitored, where the textile itself is the sensor. The extension to whole garment and the integration with physiological monitors is part of the roadmap of the consortium. Textiles for applications in health monitoring are becoming a major theme for the citizen’s healthcare and safety since they allow:

.

simultaneously comfort and monitoring (for safety and/or health);

.

non-invasive measurements, no laboratory sampling; continuous monitoring during daily activity of the person;

. .

Research register

possible multi-parameter analysis and monitoring; and

distributed sensing thanks to access to 90 per cent of the body surface if integrated on clothing. Societal issues such as ambulatory healthcare, isolated elderly or disabled patient’s care may be tackled by these techniques. Moreover, non-invasive and continuous monitoring of people in a critical state is more and more needed e.g. in emergency services, for heavily burnt patients and safety, e.g. exposed personnel like fire-fighters. At the present stage, health-monitoring systems using electronic textiles are mainly targeting applications based upon physiological parameter measurements, such as body movements or electro-cardiogram. To open a dramatically wider field of applications, biochemical measurements on body fluids (blood, sweat, urine) will be needed. At the present time, biochemical analysis systems compatible with integration into clothing are unfortunately lacking. This is a major drawback for instance in the case of sweat analysis which is potentially very rich in health related information. However, such analysis is hardly performed today because of the difficulty to sample sweat in sufficient quantity. Only a real textile sensor embedded in a garment through textile techniques will allow direct collection of sweat and a large body surface; moreover lower fabrication costs are expected. For blood analysis, the main interest will be to avoid invasive sampling and to allow continuous analysis. BIOTEX aims at the development of technologies to fulfil these needs. .

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) New textile integrated systems for biochemical parameters detection. Publications Not available

Pisa, Italy University of Pisa, Via Diotisalvi, 2, 56126 Pisa, Italy, Tel: +39 0502217053; Fax: +39 0502217051; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Danilo De Rossi Research Staff: Prof. Luigi Landini, Ing. Enzo Pasquale Scilingo, Dr Federico Lorussi

MY HEART Cardiovascular Disease by preventive lifestyle & early diagnosis

63

IJCST 19,6

Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

University of Pisa, Universidad Philips GmbH Forschungslaboratorien Politecnica de Madrid, Consorzio di (Philips Research Labs. – Aachen), Bioingegneria e Informatica Philips Electronics UK Limited (Philips Medica (CBIM), Politecnico di Milano, Research Labs. – Redhill and Philips University of Padova, University of Firenze,Design – London), Philips International University Clinic Aachen, Hospital Clinico B.V. (Design – Eindhoven), Philips San Carlos de Madrid Insalud, Fondazione Innovative Technology Solutions NV Centro San Raffaele del Monte Tabor, (Philips DSL), Medtronic Iberia SA, Nokia University Pavia IRCCS/FSM, Corporation, Fundacion Vodafone, Nylstar Universidad Politecnica de Valencia CD S.p.A., Manifatture Filati Riunite SPA (Technical University of (Lineapiu Group), Milior – S.P.A., Smartex Valencia – Sports Center) Facludade de – S.R.L, Dr Hein GMBH, Mind Media B.V., ciencias e technologia da universidade de Medgate AG, CSEM Centre Suisse Coimbra, Hospital de Unisersidate D’Electronique et de Microtechnique SA, de Coimbra Commissariat a l’energie Atomique (CEALETI), Eidgenossische Technische Hochschule Zurich (ETH Zurich), Instituto de Aplicaciones de las Tecnologı´as de la Informacio´n y de las Comunicaciones Avanzadas – Asociacio´n (ITACA), Mayo Clinic Rochester, Philips Electronics Nederland b.v. (Philips Research Labs -Eindhoven), Lineapiu S.P.A. .

64

Project start date: December 2003 Project end date: September 2007 Project budget: University of Pisa: e976,168 Source of support: European Commission Cardio-vascular diseases (CVD) are the leading cause of death in the west. In Europe over 20 per cent of all citizens suffer from a chronic CVD and 45 per cent of all deaths are due to CVD. Europe spends annually hundreds billion Euros on CVD. With the upcoming aging population, it is a challenge for Europe to deliver its citizens healthcare at affordable costs. It is commonly accepted, that a healthy and preventive lifestyle as well as early diagnosis could systematically fight the origin of CVD and save millions of live-years. The MyHeart mission is to empower citizen to fight cardio-vascular diseases by preventive lifestyle and early diagnosis. The starting point is to gain knowledge on a citizen’s actual health status. To gain this info continuous monitoring of vital signs is mandatory. The approach is therefore to integrate system solutions into functional clothes with integrated textile sensors. The combination of functional clothes and integrated electronics and process them on-body, we define as intelligent biomedical clothes. The processing consists of making diagnoses, detecting trends and react on it. Together with feedback devices, able to

interact with the user as well as with professional services, the MyHeart system is formed. This system is suitable for supporting citizens to fight major CVD risk factors and help to avoid heart attack, other acute events by personalized guidelines and giving feedback. It provides the necessary motivation the new life styles. MyHeart will demonstrate technical solutions. The outcome will open up a l new mass market for the European industry and it will help prevent the development of CVD, meanwhile reduce the overall EU healthcare costs. The consortium consists of 33 partners from 11 countries. It is a research effort of industrial, research institutes, academics and medical hospitals, covering the whole value chain from textile research, via fashion and electronic design, towards medical and home-based applications.

Project aims and objectives The MyHeart approach for solving the key challenges is based on the development of intelligent biomedical clothes for preventive care application tailored to specific user groups. In order to focus on the user motivation and the individual benefit, we define the main objectives along 5 different application areas. These application areas reflect the main risks for developing a CVD and address the user need for early diagnose to limit the severity of an acute event.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) Electronic systems embedded into functional clothes, functional clothes with integrated textile and non-textile sensors.Combination of functional clothes and integrated electronics will be intelligent biomedical clothes (IBC). Publications Not available

Pisa, Italy University of Pisa, Via Diotisalvi, 2, 56126 Pisa, Italy, Tel: +39 0502217053; Fax: +39 0502217051; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Danilo De Rossi Research Staff: Prof. Bruno Neri; Ing. Alessandro Tognetti; Ing. Enzo Pasquale Scilingo; Ing. Federico Carpi; Ing. Antonio Lanata`

PROETEX: Protection e-Textiles: MicroNanoStructured fibre systems for Emergency-Disaster Wear

Research register

65

IJCST 19,6

66

Other Partners: Academic Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche – INFM, Technical University of Lodz, Ghent University – Department of Textiles, University of PISA, Dublin City University, Institut National des Sciences Applique´es de Lyon

Industrial Smartex srl, Milior, Sofileta SAS, Thuasne,Commissariat a` l’Energie Atomique -”CEA”,CSEM Centre Suisse d’Electronique et de Microtechnique SA, Sensor Technology and Devices Ltd, Steiger S.A.,Philips GmbH, Zweigniederlassung Forschungslaboratorien, Ciba Spezialita¨tenchemie AG, Diadora Invicta SpA, iXscient Ltd, Zarlink Semiconductor Limited, Brunet-Lion SAS, Brigade de Sappeurs Pompiers de Paris, European Centre for Research and Training in Earthquake Engineering, Direction de la De´fense et de la Se´curite´ Civiles

Project start date: February 2006 Project end date: January 2010 Project budget: University of Pisa: e780,443; Total: e 12,792,242 (Requested: e 8.100.000) Source of support: European Commission

ProeTEX will develop integrated smart wearables for emergency disaster intervention personnel, improving their safety, coordination and efficiency and for injured civilians, optimising their survival management. This core application area, which is of significant societal importance in itself, will drive a wide range of key technology developments, building on current and past EU and national projects and the commercial activities of partners, to create micro-nano-engineering smart textile systems – integrated systems (fabrics, wearable garments) using specifically fibrebased micronano technologies. These are capable of being combined into diverse products addressing this core application area but also a wide range of other markets from extreme sports, through healthcare to transportation maintenance and building workers. The industrial partners can address these markets. Fiber systems can integrate sensors, actuators, conductors, power management, and the emergency disaster personnel smart garment will, within a wireless ambient planning and managing environment, progressively enhance and integrate fiber systems for: .

continuous monitoring of life signs (biopotentials, breathing movement, cardiac sounds);

.

continuous monitoring biosensors (sweat, dehydration, electrolytes, stress indicators);

.

pose and activity monitoring;

.

low power local wireless communications, including integrated fiber antennae;

.

active visibility enhancement, light emitting fibers;

.

internal temperature monitoring using fiber sensors;

.

external chemical detection, including toxic gases and vapours; and power generation – photovoltaic and thermoelectric and power storage.

.

The technological base developed will concentrate on smart fibers/e-textiles, but the IP will combine these where appropriate with ‘conventional’ microsystems (such as accelerometers, gyros, microcontrollers and wireless chips).

Project aims and objectives The central IP goal is to develop an integrated set of functional garments for emergency disaster personnel, such as firefighters and paramedics, plus systems for injured civilians. These will be produced using both enhanced and novel fibre based micronanosystems, whose development will extend the state of the art in this area. The project will roll out a sequence of progressively more capable integrated wearable systems for emergency disaster intervention personnel and injured civilians. Thus overall the IP will: .

Progress the fundamentals of fibre-based sensor, processing, communications and power management systems.

.

Integrate these fibre-based capabilities into functional knitted or woven wearable garments.

.

Produce fully capable integrated communicating, sensor wearables, using additional ‘conventional’ systems where necessary.

.

Test their match of user needs and requirements in a lab-based setting. Demonstrate their function in a real-world application in a number of field trials.

.

Scientific objectives .

Develop a multifunctional garment integrating an increasingly ambitious set of sensors and energy harvesting and storage which is reliable, robust, easy to wear and capable of manufacture.

.

Into this garment: Design, test and integrate a bioelectrical heart rate monitor into whole skin contact garment interface; Design, test and Integrate a cardiac sound monitor; Integrate sensor breathing monitor and ensure that signal conditioning and processing results in successful way. Develop fibre and new textile based technological solutions, with reliable functionality, capable of integration into wearable garments covering the following set of technological area capabilities: . Monitor bioelectrical potential.

.

.

Sensing breath movements.

.

Sensing posture and movement. Biochemical sensing, specifically determination of dehydration status.

. . .

Sensing core temperature. Acting as local communications antennae.

Research register

67

IJCST 19,6

68

.

Sensing external toxic gases/chemicals, including CO.

.

Generating local energy using thermoelectric generation.

.

Generating local energy using photovoltaic processes and

.

Storing energy using Li-Ion textile batteries.

Technical objectives .

Develop and adapt textile manufacturing processes to these new active fibres and layers (weaving, knitting, coating, laminating) but also innovate in terms of clothes conception to optimise the assembly step regarding interconnection needs for e-textile garment.

.

Develop and test a multifunctional (inner and outer) garment integrating an increasingly ambitious set of sensors and energy harvesting and storage which is reliable, robust, easy to wear and capable of manufacture for both intervention people and injured civilians.

.

The inner and out garment will include an adapted set of functionalities based on the developed technologies. As example first inner garment could integrate bioelectrical heart rate monitor, cardiac sound monitor, strain sensor breathing monitor inner temperature measurement and ensure that signal conditioning and processing results in successful and robust physiological monitoring. Energy generated by the heat (thermoelectricity) and the movement (piezoelectricity) of the of the wearer. Outer garment will typically include toxic gas measurement, external temperature; motion and position monitoring, data transmission system, energy could be provided by photovoltaic external layer and textile Li-Ion batteries.

.

Realize field trial of the instrumented garment for technological validation.

Research deliverables (academic and industrial) The key deliverables will be: .

An inner garment for emergency disaster personnel, monitoring the health of the user through vital signs, biochemical parameters, activity and posture, generating and storing own power and communicating locally with other wearables and relaying through (D).

.

An outer garment for emergency disaster personnel, measuring potential environmental insults (temperature, CO, other toxic gases), sensing posture and movement of the wearer and offering improved visibility, generating and storing its own power communicating locally with other wearables and relaying through (D).

.

An under-garment jerkin or chest band for injured civilians (closely related to (A)) monitoring their health, generating and storing its own power and communicating locally, relaying information via (E).

Victims monitoring measures will include: body temperature; cardiac pulse; respiration rate; ECG; percutaneous CO saturation; percutaneous O2.

.

.

A portable unit for the emergency disaster personnel, communicating with A, B & C, but offering additional ‘conventional’ microsystem, providing both local and long range communication (acting as a relay for A, B and C), including some specific sensors not easily integrated into (B), plus accelerometers, gyros and GPS to enable high accuracy position and movement determination. This device should allow data entry and displays/alarms. A portable unit for injured civilians, to include data relay capability and INS/GPS but no data entry or display. Some kind of integrated alarm or indicator to give the overall civilians health status. A simple user input, such as panic button, may be required.

Publications Not available

Shrewsbury, UK Rapra Technology Ltd, Shawbury, Shrewsbury, Shropshire SY4 4NR, Tel: +44 1939250383; Fax: +44 1939 251118; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(S): Chris Hare Research Staff: R Venables, S Wallace

New Classes of Composite Engineering Materials from Renewable Sources Other Partners: Academic Upper Austria Research, Lulea University of Technology, Wroclaw University of Technology

Industrial Fraunhofer ICT, Risoe, Gaiker, Celabor, VTT, APC Composites, BAFA, Transfurans chemicals, PJH, Chemont,Tecnaro, MERL, Net composites, Tehnos, Griffner, MEDOP, Haidlmair, Fiedler, Ekotex, National Institute of wood

Project start date: 1 April 05 Project end date: 1 October 08 Project budget: e6.5 million Source of support: EU, Integrated Project, FP6 Future product design requires sustainable processes and eco-innovation in material development for engineering applications. The innovative approaches use new engineering materials - biocomposites and their development has to be knowledgebased, whereas predominant issues are resource saving, variability in properties and functionality, light weight, low costs and eco-efficiency in all stages of the product life cycle.

Research register

69

IJCST 19,6

70

The main objective of this project is to obtain a breakthrough for SMEs on the development and use of engineering thermoplastic and thermosetting materials mainly from natural resources, like lignin from the paper industry and from the High Presure Hydrothermolyses (HPH) process, other biopolymers (here referred as biopolymers: e.g. Polylactide, Polyhydroxy-butyrate, Starch), furan resins, woven and non-woven cellulose fibres and fibre mats to final model products. The technical work programme will comprise the complete technical path from the input of natural raw materials (fibres, polymers and natural additives) to the output of final top quality engineering composite materials and model products (e.g. housings for electronic equipment, car front end interiors, glass frames etc.) with an environmentally friendly life cycle. In parallel, there are activities concerning standardisation of characterisation and test procedures and quality control. Demonstration by the model products supporting the dissemination and the exploitation of results will exhibit the benefits of the materials and deliver a first input to material databases. An integrated concept of sustained skill and education of staff and students will provide routines and access to the material data. It includes the most interesting approaches of all current developments for engineering biocomposites. Innovative additives will provide flame retardancy and colouring.

Project aims and objectives To produce a range of ‘hi tech’ composite panels using a variety of natural fibres and natural resins.

Research deliverables Many deliverables in the project, some of which are: Reports on: Raw material characterization, data and tolerances; Compounding of materials; Test data; Safety and emissions; Environmental Benefits; Economic Evaluation; Sample tools and parts; Demonstration Parts; Training, exploitation and dissemination. Publications Dr Tama´s Pe´ter - Dr Hala´sz Marianna (2003), “3D body modelling in clothing design”, IMCEP 2003, 4th International Conference, 9-11. October 2003, Maribor, Slovenia, ISBN 86-435-0575-7, pp. 64-68. L. Kokas Palicska; J. Gersak; M. Hala´sz (2005), “The impact of fabric structure and finishing on the drape behavior of textiles”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June 2005, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 891-897. P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz; J. Gra¨ff (2005), “3D dress design”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June 2005, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 436-441. J. Kuzmina; P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz, Gy. Gro´f (2005), “Image-based cloth capture and cloth simulation used for estimation cloth draping parameters”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June 2005, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 904-909. L. Szabo´; M. Hala´sz (2005), “Automatic determination of body surface data”, AUTEX 2005, 5th World Textile Conference, Portorozˇ, Slovenia, 27-29 June 2005, ISBN 86-435-0709-1, pp. 715-720. L. Kokas Palicska; M. Hala´sz (2005), “Analysing of draping properties of textiles”, IN-TECH-ED’05, 5th International Conference, 8-9. September 2005, Budapest, ISBN 963 9397 06 7, pp. 133-138. O. Nagy Szabo´; P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz (2005), “Garment construction with a 3 dimension designing system”, IN-TECH-ED’05, 5th International Conference, 8-9. September 2005, Budapest, ISBN 963 9397 06 7, pp. 348-257.

J. Kuzmina; P. Tama´s; M. Hala´sz; Gy. Gro´f (2005), “Image-Based Cloth Capture and Cloth Simulation Used for Estimation Cloth Draping Parameters”, IN-TECH-ED’05, 5th International Conference, 8-9. September 2005, Budapest, ISBN 963 9397 06 7, pp. 358-365.

Research register

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovic´a 30, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 4877 360; Fax: +385 1 4877 355; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Ana Marija Grancaric´, Ph.D. Research Staff: Assoc. Prof. Tanja Pusˇic´, Ph.D.; Assist. Prof. Zˇeljko Penava, Ph.D.; Anita Tarbuk, M. Sc., Lea Markovic´, B. Sc., Assist. Prof. Jasenka Bisˇc´an, Ph.D.; Sonja Besˇenski, M. Sc., Ivancˇica Kovacˇek, Ph.D., D. Med., Prof. Djamal Akbarov, Ph.D., Prof. Emil Chibowski, Ph.D., Prof. Rybicki Edward, Ph.D., Prof. Eckhard Schollmeyer, Ph.D., Prof. M.M.C.G. Warmoeskerken, Ph.D.

Interface Phenomena of Active Multifunctional Textile Materials Other Partners: Academic partners:

Industrial partners

Croatian National Institute of Pamucˇna industrija Duga Resa, Duga Resa Public Health, Zagreb; Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry, Uzbekistan; Maria Curie-Skłodowska University, Lublin, Poland; Technical University of Lodz, Poland; Deutsches Textilforschungsinstitut Nord-West eV; Institut der Universitat Duisburg Essen; University of Twente, Netherlands Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Project budget: None Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Textile material, Interface phenomena, Surface modification and finishing, Multifunctionality The goal of the project is synergistic effects of some compounds on modified textile surfaces for achieving multifunctionality of textiles. Interface phenomena of textile surfaces with special accent on surface free energy, zeta potential, electroconductivity, adsorption and desorption of surfactants and other compounds usually used in textile finishing will give a great contribution to multifunctionality of textile. The mechanism of adsorption and desorption of surfactants and other finishing agents on modified textile surfaces is expected to be clarified in the present project.

71

IJCST 19,6

72

Different surface modifications, pretreatment and finishing of textile, especially cotton and polyester, will be performed according to European Technology Platform for the future of textile and clothing. For such purpose advance processes like mercerization, cationization, alkali, EDTA, other compounds and enzymes for surface hydrolysis of PET fabric, optical bleaching, implementation of nano antimicrobial active silver ions and mineral delivery mechanism, zeolite and others will be performed. Aminofunctional and other compounds will be added to azalides for the synergistic high antimicrobial effects. In cotton pretreatment enzymatic scouring will be applied using enzymes pectinase and the newest cutinase, for removal of pectins and bioplymers from cotton impurities with lipophylic character, instead of ecologically unfavorable alkali scouring. The goal of the project is synergistic effects of some compounds on modified textile surface. Interface phenomena of the new textile materials produced from electroconductive, low electro resistance fibers will be investigated for the purpose of static electricity and electromagnetic protection and for its implementation as sensors or other electronic devices in intelligent textiles. Traditional protection and aesthetic role of textile will be spread in active textile multifunctionality. Project will deal with elektrokinetic phenomena (zeta potential, isoelectric point, IEP, point of zero charge, PZC, surface electrical charge, surface free energy), hydrophility and hydrophobilicity, whiteness, fluorescence and phosphorescence, friction, fabric cover factor, elasticity, air and water vapor permeability of textile materials and their protection on UV radiation, microbes and fungi, coldness, heat and flame, static electricity and electromagnetic field.

Project aims and objectives Project will continue researching on assignments from previous project (0117012). Purpose of these investigations is based on lightening of interface phenomena on textile which effect directly to its adsorption and interaction intensity between textile fibers and chemical compounds. Almost all possibilities in modification during manufacturing high performance synthetic fibers are used, therefore nowadays attention and research is on textile surface modification. Procedures and compounds for that modification varies, as their effect varies, but the purpose and aim are directed to synergism of two or more components for accomplishing hydrophob or hydrophil textile, textile highly resistant to atmospheric condition, bacteria, microbe and fungi, UV radiation and open flame. Furthermore important aim of the project is cotton high level of purity by unconventional agents and material pretreatment procedures for mercerization and cationization. Pectinase in previous project investigation showed good elimination of pectine from primary cotton layer, but hydrophility was not so high like alkali scoured cotton. Chemical composition of cotton cuticula has lypophilic polymers, biopolyesters, which can be degraded by cutinase, new enzymes for degradation of waxes for better hydrophility. Cotton cationization during mercerization is the most important innovation of previous project and the patent for it was asked. Electronegative cotton surface charge, of which anionic substances adsorption depends, is lower after cationization in harsh mercerization conditions. The aim of this project is antibacterial, UV and flame protection by nanoparticle implementation (Ag) using mineral delivery compound (zeolite and others) as well. Electroconductive fibers implementation in yarns

of textile materials should result in static electricity removal, and hopefully other effects. The aim of polyester surface modification, optical bleaching, other compounds treatments is well-known aesthetic, as well as high UV protection, high material elasticity as a result of changes in fiber microstructure. Interface phenomena research on wide range possible fabric knitted and woven construction will givethe solution of problems of fabric construction influence to high effect in this project.

Research register

73 Research deliverables Interface phenomena of textile materials surface in wet medium results in textile electric surface charge cognition and surface free energy as well on which adsorption depends. Important application of this project results is in ecological enzymatic scouring with pectinases.Enzymatic scouring with new enzymes, cutinase, will remove biopolyester cuticula and improve cotton hydrophility, and therefore replace harsh conventional alkali scouring entirely. Important application will have, patent requested cotton cationization during mercerization. By this pretreatment electropositive cotton is achieved, with great anion adsorption on its surface in all textile finishing processes. These anions enclose all low and high molecular compounds for textile finishing and all pricondensates. Implementation of nanoparticles (Ag and others) is predicted during mercerization and cationization processes, therefore it is important to emphasize rational component of these procedures which gives cotton multifunctionality in all textile usage. The next important application is antibacterial textile accomplished with azalide treatment especially in synergism with aminofunctional and other compounds and systems. It is well-known that fluorescence of optically bleached increases whitening of textiles. Optical brighteners and other compounds researching will be of great importance in UV protection with textile material. Heavy metals are toxic and their research is of great importance in human health protection. Furthermore, in nowadays growing demands on life safety from external influences especially UV radiation, research of differently structured textile material interface phenomena will find application in textile for summer clothing. Publications Grancaric´, Anamarija; Pusˇic´, Tanja; Tarbuk, Anita (2006), Enzymatic Scouring for Better Textile Properties of Knitted Cotton Fabrics // Biotechnology in Textile Processing / Guebitz, Georg; CavacoPaulo, Artur; Kozlowski, Rysard (ED.). New York: The Haworth Press, Inc., 2006. Grancaric´, Ana Marija; Tarbuk, Anita; Dumitrescu, Iuliana; Bisˇc´an, Jasenka (2006), “UV Protection of Pretreated Cotton - Influence of FWA’s Fluorescence”. // AATCC Review 6 (2006) 4, 2–6. Anita Tarbuk, Ana Marija Grancaric´ & Volker Ribitsch (2007), Electrokinetic Phenomena of Textile Fibers//Book of abstracts XX.Croatian meeting of Chemists and Chemical engineers 2007,301. Ana Marija Grancaric´, Lea Markovic´, Anita Tarbuk, Eckhard Schollmeyer (2007), Properties of Multifunctional Cotton in Accordance with International Standards//Conference of Textile days, Zagreb 2007. Ana Marija Grancaric´, Anita Tarbuk, Ivancˇica Kovacˇek (2007), “Micro and nanoparticles of Zeolite for the protective Textiles”, Book of Proceedings of 7th Annual AUTEX Conference, AUTEX 2007, Tampere, Finland, p. 1123. Anita Tarbuk, Ana Marija Grancaric´, Mirela Leskovac (2007), “Surface Free Energy of Pretreated and Modified Cotton Woven Fabric”, Book of Proceedings of 7th Annual AUTEX Conference, AUTEX 2007, Tampere, Finland, p. 1104.

IJCST 19,6

74

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz Baruna Filipovica 30, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 4877 360; Fax: +385 1 4877 355; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Ana Marija Grancaric, Ph.D., Prof. Ilse Steffan, Ph.D. Research Staff: Iva Rezic, M.Sc., Michaela Zeiner, Ph.D.

Impact of Heavy Metals from Textiles on Human Health Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Department of Analytical and Food Chemistry, University of Vienna, Austria Project start date: 1 January 2006 Project end date: 31 December 2007 ¨ Source of support: Osterreichischer Austauschdienst (O¨AD, Austria) and Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Textiles, Heavy metals, Human health Many textiles may contain various chemicals that represent a health hazard to consumers and an environment when discharged into wastewater from households, laundries or textile industries. The risk involved due to chemical pollutants in respect to health hazard depends on the toxicity of certain chemicals, their quantity present in the products and the duration of exposure to them. One important type of substances mentioned above is heavy metals. Systems in which toxic metal elements can induce impairment and dysfunction include the blood and cardiovascular system, eliminative pathways (colon, liver, kidneys, skin), endocrine (hormonal) pathways, energy production pathways, enzymatic, gastrointestinal, immune, nervous (central and peripheral), reproductive and urinary system. This is the reason why the heavy metals which are present in the textile material represent a source of pollution which must be controlled to protect both the environment and human health.The most important standards in Europe for evaluation of the textiles ¨ ko Tex Standard and M. S. T. (Markenzeichen schadstoffgepru¨fter Textilien). are O According to its requirements, the textiles are controlled for extractable harmful heavy metals (As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni, and Hg).

Project aims and objectives The objective of this project was the investigation of the impact of heavy metals from ¨ ko Tex standard. textiles on human health which will be examined according to the O This means a study of the extractable harmful heavy metals such as As, Pb, Cd, Cr, Co, Cu, Ni, and Hg from Croatian and Austrian textile products made of cotton, flax, wool, silk, viscose, and other similar materials which are manufactured and used daily. Since a majority of problems arise in the field of heavy metal complex dyes which could be extracted from the fabrics by perspiration or saliva solutions, the primary target of

interest was the determination of extracted heavy metals from different textile materials according to the O¨ko Tex standard. The quantity of extractable harmful metals in the textiles should not exceed the given limits. Leaching of heavy metals from textiles was carried out in saliva and perspiration solution (artificial acidic sweat solution, according to the ISO 105 – E04) using ultrasonic as well as microwave extraction methods. The metals will be separated simultaneously, identified and quantified by a rapid screening method (thin layer chromatography and video densitometry). UV/VIS spectrometry was applied as an additional comparable method for determination of particular extractable heavy metals. Main advantages of thin layer chromatography are the low costs, its ease of operation and rapidity.

Research deliverables The results obtained in Croatia with UV/VIS and TLC were compared to those achieved in Austria by graphite furnace - atomic absorption spectrometry (GF-AAS) and inductively coupled plasma – optical emission spectrometry (ICP-OES). The metal concentrations was be determined by GF-AAS and ICP-OES after preparation by microwave digestion oven in nitric acid. GF-AAS and ICP-OES are widely used analytical methods for the determination of trace and ultratrace elements in all kinds of samples. Whereas ICP-OES is simultaneous multielement method with high sample throughput, GF-AAS is a single element method requiring smaller sample amounts and enabling lower limits of detection especially for the toxic metals As, Cd and Pb. Publications M. Zeiner, I. Rezic´ & I. Steffan (2006), Overview of Analytical Methods for the Determination of Heavy Metals Present on Textile Materials, 3rd International Textile, Clothing & Design conference, 8th – 11th October 2006, Dubrovnik, Croatia. I. Rezic´, M. Zeiner, I. Steffan (2007), UV/VIS Comparison of some Textile Dyes, XX Croatian Meeting of Chemists and Chemical Engineers, Zagreb, February 26 – March 1 2007. I. Rezic´, M. Zeiner & I. Steffan (2007), Risk by Chromium Tanned Leather for Human Skin, Second Conference of Croatian Scientists, 7th – 10th May 2007 Split, Croatia.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 30, HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 37 12 557; Fax: +385 1 37 12 591; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Budimir Mijovic, Ph.D. Research Staff: Prof. Miroslav Skoko Ph.D., in retirement; Prof. Dragutin Taborsak Ph.D., Professor Emeritus; Prof. Salah-Eldien Omer, Ph.D.; Prof. Jovan Vucinic, Ph. D.; Nenad Mustapic, Mr. Sc.; Jasenka Pivac, Mr. Sc.; Zlatko Jurac, Mr. Sc.

Ergonomic design of the worker-furniture-environment system

Research register

75

IJCST 19,6

Other Partners: Academic

76

Faculty of Forestry, University of Zagreb Tvin, Virovitica, Croatia Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2009 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Sitting, Furniture, 3D model of workplace, Work environment, Virtual reality

Industrial

Sitting furniture should enable the worker to take an optimal bodily sitting posture, ensuring active and dynamic sitting. A long-lasting and non-ergonomic bodily posture in this position causes uncomfortable sitting. Defining optimal working postures and strains makes a contribution to the reduction of necessary energy and facilitates working and circulation functions. The total work space should be designed in compliance with all criteria of the working posture and technical requirements. It is necessary to know the worker well, his working capabilities, work place and work methods to ensure an optimal working environment. Furniture dimensions and workplace, surrounding the furniture, regarding its optimal utilization, should be harmonized with the worker’s anthropometric sizes. Research methods are experimental, theoretical and numerical. Functional dependences of the worker-furniture-environment system will be investigated, based on ergonomic postulates in order to find optimal conditions between work humanization and productivity. Investigations are determined by measuring and recording typical working postures as well as conditions of excessive workload. Using digitally scanned 3D anthropometric characteristics of the human body, a digital 3D biomechanical model is obtained, taking account of the appropriate kinematicdynamic motion rules and the construction of the inner skeleton. 3D program applications with advanced automated defined anthropometric and ergonomic features of biomechanical models and digital figures will be recorded. A 3D visualization of the workplace by using a computer-based 3D model of furniture and computer-based character animations of workers will be performed. By using computer 3D program solutions, the prototype is substituted by 3D models on which all necessary designs and changes in real time have been carried out interactively. Computer visualization will be used to perform a biomechanical analysis of movements based on the real correlation within the space of the interaction of workers and belonging working environment on the obtained 3D models of workers and workspace. It is necessary to analyze the workspace and time studies of motion accurately. The 3D virtual model will enable a detailed biomechanical analysis of motion, speed and acceleration and more designer’s solutions of furniture with biomechanical and ergonomic parameters. Detrimental impact of too a high noise on workers as well as efficient procedures of noise reduction will be investigated. Special attention will be focused on detrimental action of microclimatic conditions regarding technological requirements of the industry. The optimization of work energy during the performance of the work by the worker will be performed to lessen fatigue and to remove excessive workload and to reduce sick-leaves. The performance of these investigations will result in ergonomic technical-economic design of the interactive work-furniture-environment system which is of great importance for the development of the Republic of Croatia and elsewhere in the world.

Project aims and objectives The purpose of these investigations is to achieve the reduction of work energy when workers work in sitting position and to enable the reduction of fatigue and falling ill. When performing work, a better economic performance with a lower energy consumption and operator’s fatigue should be obtained. In testing the level of detrimental sound effects their efficacious reduction could be achieved. The action of noise and vibrations could be prevented by investigating efficient noise and vibration dampers, damping the transfer of vibrations on workers by using pads and personal protective equipment. The aim of these investigations is to optimize work movements in sitting position with less operator’s fatige and reduction of sick-leaves in the industry. Thereby, working conditions and environment as well as safety in technological processes are to be especially stressed. They should be used to improve economic characteristics substantially. Special purposes of the investigation are the optimization of working postures and the confirmation of the knowledge about defining new criteria for the right ergonomic design of working pieces of furniture.

Research deliverables The application of investigations means work simplification, investigation and determination of manufacture time from the point of view of ergonomic starting points. When performing work, a better economic effect is to be achieved with a less energy consumption and operator’s fatigue. Based on the investigated causes of the increase of sound pressure level of machines, it is necessary to find out qualitative solutions to reduce the level into permitted and tolerable limits. To obtain satisfactory microclimatic conditions, work spaces, machinery and air-conditioning instruments with better economic and other characteristics will be defined, whereby current energy consumption will be reduced. Furniture dimensions are determined by computer based visualization of virtual 3D character in interaction with digitized and really designed furniture and environment. Virtual simulation offers the opportunity to create optimal constructive solutions of furniture which enables active and dynamic sitting. It is a relaxation bodily posture that is thereby obtained when sitting. Ergonomic, anthropometric, functional and technical requirements of workers are thereby satisfied. A 3D simulation model of comfortable and safe bodily posture in sitting position is created, together with all biomechanical characteristics, and interactive effects with existing and new materials used for making sitting furniture are attained. Thereby, design and construction of sitting furniture is supplemented, which, because of its designer and constructive solutions and design observance, reduces the possibilities of low-quality designs and problems of body illness and causing inability to work.

Publications A. Agic, V. Nikolic, B. Mijovic (2006), “Foot Anthropometry and Morphology Phenomena”, Collegium antropologicum. Vol. 30 (2006), No. 4; 815-821. A. Agic, B. Mijovic (2006), “Planar Model of the Deformation Behaviour of Electrospun Fibrous Nanocomposites”, Tekstil, Vol. 55 (2006), 606-612. A. Agic, B. Mijovic, T. Nikolic (2007), “Blood Flow Multiscale Phenomena”, Collegium antropologicum. Vol. 31 (2007), No. 2; 523-529.

Research register

77

IJCST 19,6

78

U. Reischl, V. Nandikolla, C. Colby, B. Mijovic, H.C. Wei (2007), “Ergonomics Consequence of Chinese Footbinding: A case study, Ergonomics 2007”, Budimir Mijovic (Ed.) Croatian Society of Ergonomics, 2007. 1-6. D. Novak, B. Mijovic (2007), “Applying Cognitive Rrgonomics to teaching Math, Ergonomics 2007”, Budimir Mijovic (Ed.) Croatian Society of Ergonomics, 15-20. N. Mustapic, B. Mijovic (2007), “Assessing the Slip resistence of Flooring, Ergonomics 2007”, Budimir Mijovic (Ed.) Croatian Society of Ergonomics, 2007. 155-163.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovic´a 30, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +38513712500; Fax: +38513712599; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Darko Ujevic´, Ph.D. Research Staff: Jadranka Akalovic´, B.Sc.; Prof. Jadranka Bacˇic´; Prof. Zoltan Baracˇkai, Ph.D.; Vinko Barisˇic´, B.Sc.; Ing. Iva Berket; Bajro Bolic´, B.Sc.; Blazˇenka Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, B.Sc.; Ksenija Dolezˇal, B.Sc.; Mirko Drenovac, Ph.D.; Prof. Milan Galovic´, Ph.D.; Marijan Hrastinski, B.Sc.; Renata Hrzˇenjak, B.Sc.; M.D. Natasˇa Kaleboti; Prof. Isak Karabegovic´, Ph.D.; Ivan Klanac, B.Sc.; M.D. Irena Kos-Topic´; Prof. Tonc´i Lazibat, Ph.D.; Nikol Margetic´, B.Sc.; Prof. Zlatka MenclBajs; M.D. Zˇeljko Mimica; Prof. Gojko Nikolic´, Ph.D.; Alem Orlic´, B.Sc.; PhD.M.D. Vedrana Petrovecˇki; B.Sc.M.E. Zˇeljko Petrovic´; Prof. Dubravko Rogale, Ph.D.; Prof. Andrea Russo; Igor Sutlovic´, Ph.D.; Prof. Vlasta Szirovicza, Ph.D.; Irena Sˇabaric´, B.Sc.; MSc.M.D. Nadica Sˇkreb-Rakijasˇic´, Marija Sˇutina, B.Sc.; Prof. Larry C. Wadsworth, Ph.D.

Anthropometric Measurements and Adaptation of Garment Size System Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Anthropometric Measurements, Garment Size System Systematic anthropometric surveys have been conducted since 1901 with the aim of developing and improving systems for clothing and footwear sizes. The measurement results show how a national population changes over a period of several decades in physical build and size due to a series of factors (food habits, sports development, genetic predispositions, population migrations, climatic conditions etc.). Based on the results of anthropometric measurements in the Republic of Croatia (2004/05) on the sample of 30,866 test persons aged between 1 and 82 a statistical analysis of body measurements was performed, a database including 5 basic studies of sex and age as well as a new standard for clothing and footwear was built. These results enable a significant and stimulating continuation of scientific research and a comparison

to other national standards and their contributions to the creation of systems for clothing and footwear sizes. Elements common for national standards of garment sizing by an exact approach will be investigated and analyzed, in particular because the presumptions of national systems and starting elements respectively are not universally founded like intersize intervals which differ in sizes since the conformity of individual starting places is missing. Data will be provided for a common base with methods of body measuring and size designation of clothes according to the recommendations of the Technical Committee TC133 within ISO and EN standards as well as the design and development of a sophisticated computer system (DOV-KO) for unifying all body measurements and basic garment construction based on one or all other sizes. Within the scope of this project and based on experience, a very important cycle of anthropometric measurements of the sporting population in football, water polo, rowing, basketball and handball will be performed. 4,000 test persons from Zagreb, Osijek, Rijeka, Split and Dubrovnik will be measured, whereby specific body differences and deformations of muscles caused by longstanding training will be analyzed. A comparative analysis of the representative sample of the anthropometric measurements of sportsmen and other population as well as the investigation of other trends of body measurements will be performed. This will enable an exceptional insight into the anthropometric dimensions which reflect body shape, proportionality, composition and elements of success in sports respectively. Stadiometar or a new measuring instrument for continuous measuring body height, foot length and width will be designed too.

Project aims and objectives Problems of garment sizing and fit affect the market globally, and a consequence of bad predictions of the quantity of necessary stocks for manufacturers and dealers poses a risk of high costs. In the case of domestic manufacturers samples may be additionally divided. Particular solutions may be considered more efficiently by interpreting the data from the anthropometric database connecting five studies according to sex and age and the system of sizing. Therefore, using the results of the anthropometric measurements taken and the basic projection of the new standard for clothing and footwear, one of the directives of the project is to investigate other national standards of Europe and the world and to create size intervals and a new Croatian standard. The study of body differences and specific deformities of the body muscles during the longstanding practice of athletes such as leg circumference, chest circumference, torso, shoulder width, arm and leg length, body height, palm length is an additional aim of this project which will show the body elements affecting success level in sport. Besides a greater adaptation of clothing and footwear to the home market, it would be advisable to ensure the continuity of investigating the national size standard by creating a sustainable Croatian system of clothing and footwear sizes in conformity with anthropometric surveys that are conducted periodically and systematically in developed countries in which a change in the morphology of the human body occurred over the last decades. By way of proof, systematic anthropometric measurements and sizing in

Research register

79

IJCST 19,6

80

France showed a tendency of average height growth. In Great Britain in female population a growth of bust circumference was recognized, whereas in USA studies point to the tendency of an increase in obesity (besides an aesthetic also a health problem). The interest of the scientific and professional public, manufacturers, tradespeople and consumers in sizing will continue to grow, since a faster change in established body proportions may be expected thanks to changes in living and food habits of the population, an unavoidable mingling of ethnic groups, increase in the number of older consumers of clothing and footwear which will be doubled in the next two decades etc. Thus, it is additionally stressed how much it essential at the moment to ensure a valid starting point or a Croatian standard to pursue next movements of body dimensions in order to avoid a discrepancy and imposition of the specificities of domicile consumers to home and foreign manufacturers.

Research deliverables Anthropometry is the study of the measurement of the human body, but Pheasant has expanded it as “applied anthropometry” including quantitative data of size, forms and other physical characteristics of people that can be used in garment design. Since the form of the human body changed through time, the problem of ageing proved to make a contribution to perceived changes in body shape and size more than any other individual factor, such as for example improved nutrition and prolonged life, in particular the knowledge that the number of older consumers will be doubled by 2003. Therefore, the systems of sizing shall be updated periodically to ensure a correct fit of ready-made clothing. On the other hand, the home industry of clothing, fashion wear and footwear disposes of modest and aged data based on the out-of-date anthropometric measurements from 1962. It was therefore necessary to conduct a new cycle of anthropometric measurements and to use the obtained results. World fashion industry shows a special interest in measuring anthropometric characteristics of the population so that it gathers such data permanently, motivated by the wish for designing articles of clothing for all population groups, including the persons with pronounced specificities (higher stature, higher body weight etc.). The use of investigations will contribute to creating a new and modern Croatian standard for clothing and footwear harmonized with ISO and EN standards. Besides the clothing and footwear industry, pediatricians, specialists of occupational and sports medicine, experts in wood processing industry, automotive industry, in the army and police will benefit from the investigation results. Teachers and students in undergraduate and graduate studies as well as teachers and pupils at technical schools will benefit from the development results of the computer system based on the selection of garment sizes. By using the investigations of the sporting population, one can get an insight into tendencies of diversities of body measurements and changes in muscles as a result of longstanding practice. Various specialists of sports medicine, orthopedists, garment and footwear designers will benefit form the results of this investigation because based on previous experience it is evident that mass customization is necessary for athletes. Knowing dimensional characteristics, this method would be considerably promoted and improved.

Publications Ujevic´, D., Rogale, D., Hrastinski, M., Drenovac, M., Szirovicza, L., Lazibat, T., Bacˇic´, J., Prebeg, Zˇ., MenclBajs, Z., Mujkic´, A., Sˇutina, M., Klanac, I., Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, B., Dolezˇal, K., Hrzˇenjak, R. (2006), “Normizacija, antropometrijski pregledi i Hrvatski antropometrijski sustav”, Tekstil, Vol. 55 No. 10, pp. 516-526. Ujevic´, D., Firsˇt-Rogale, S., Nikolic´, G., Rogale, D. (2006), “Pregled razvojnih dostignuc´a u tehnologiji sˇivanja - IMB 2006.”, Tekstil, Vol. 55 No. 12, pp. 624-631. Ujevic´, D., Dolezˇal, K., Lesˇina, M. (2007), “Analiza antropometrijskih izmjera za obuc´arsku industriju”, Poslovna izvrsnost, Vol. 1 No. 1, pp. 171-183. Ujevic´, D., Hrzˇenjak, R., Dolezˇal, K., Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, B. (2007), “Hrvatski antropometrijski sustav jucˇer, danas, sutra”, HZN Glasilo, Vol. 3 No. 1, pp. 5-10. Hrzˇenjak, R., Ujevic´, D., Dolezˇal, K., Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, B. (2007), “Investigation of Anthropometric Characteristics and Body Proportions in the Republic of Croatia”, Proceedings of 7th Annual Textile Conference by Autex, Tampere, Finland, 25-28 June, pp. 1191-1198. Ujevic´, D., Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, B., Dolezˇal, K., Hrzˇenjak, R., Mujkic´, A. (2007), “Rezultati prvog antropometrijskog mjerenja stanovnisˇtva Republike Hrvatske”, Drugi kongres hrvatskih znanstvenika iz domovine i inozemstva, Split, Croatia, 5-10 May. Nikolic´, G., Ujevic´, D. (2007), “Protractor for Measuring Shoulder Slope”, Patent. Ujevic´, D. (2007), “One-arm and/or two-arm anthropometer”, Patent.

Zagreb, Croatia University of Zagreb Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz bazuna Filipovic´a 30, HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 48 77 359; Fax: +385 1 48 77 355; E-mail: [email protected] ˚ urdica Parac-Osterman, Ph.D. Principal Investigator(s): Prof. A Research Staff: Martinia Ira Glogar, Ph.D.; Assist.Prof. Darko Golob, Ph.D.; Assoc. Prof. Marija Gorensˇek, Ph.D.; Assoc. Prof. Darko Grundler, Ph.D.; Assoc. Prof. Nina Knesˇaurek, Ph.D.; Prof. Nina Rezˇek-Wilson; Assist.Prof.Tomislav ˚ urasˇevic´ B.Sc. Rolich, Ph.D.; Ana Sutlovic´, M.Sc; Vedran A

Colour and Dyestuff in Processes of Ecologically acceptable sustainable development Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Jadran Stockings Factory University of Ljubljana & Maribor, Slovenia Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Project budget: Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Dyestuff selection, Nano-technology, Optimizing dyeing process, Purifying and decolouring wastewaters, Colour management, Fuzzy logic Scientific contribution to sustainable development relies on unlimited support of basic, developing and employable research. Therefore, selection of multi-functional dyes

Research register

81

IJCST 19,6

82

(UV protection, antibacterial protection, micro capsules of multi-functional performance), applying nano-technology in the dyeing processes with the aim of preventing water contamination, development of new methods as well as purifying dyed wastewaters contribute to sustainable development. Both input and output parameters of water will be controlled throughout the entire dyeing process: amount of residual dye in dyebath using Lamber-Beer absorption model; X, Y, Z standard spectral characteristics of colour defined by specific absorption coefficient SAC and water quality defined by BOD5, COD, TOC, AOX, electrical conductivity and other defining values. System of control comprising advance models of control such as fuzzy logic (model based on rules) and model based on physical and chemical processes will be developed and applied. Capital area of research will involve models of dyeing processes, colour control and its correlation to dye as well as the interactive system of dye control. Models should describe and predict kinetics, reactivity, affinity, exhaustion, fixation and interaction of solutions containing various dyestuffs. Prediction of output process result as well as definition of both physical and chemical parameters crucial for controlling the process will be conducted based on afore-mentioned models. These models encompass kinetic models (according to Nernst and Langmuir) modified for interactions between dyestuff on fibre and in the solution. Interdisciplinarity of dye within the system of sustainable development is based on spectral characteristics of colour as the fundament model dependent of the employment conditions. Instrumental measurement of colour is involved in all industrial production processes: textile technology, design, graphic industry and elsewhere which enables implementing control and colour harmonization. Application of evolutionary algorithms for modeling computer aided design of textiles based on principals of examinee’s subjective evaluation. Methods of descriptive statistics as well as methods of statistic reasoning will be applied within the frame of statistic analysis. Scientific affirmation of research results will be computer simulation as well as in vivo confirmation.

Project aims and objectives Contribution to sustainable development relies on unlimited support of basic, developing and employable research. Aim of the project is to contribute to humane ecology (regarding UV, antibacterial and other protective properties), through use of multifunctional dyes and selection of appropriate waste water discoloration and purifying methods, all in order of obtaining biological quality of water (free of toxic, aromatic components which may form in the process of dye degradation). Cognition of structure and use of thermo sensible nano sized dyes will enable their use on fibres for special purposes. Advance dyeing technologies, with the overview on pretreatment of textile substrates (enzymatic, plasmatic and other) in order of preserving environment and saving energy, will be applied. Base of the project is application of dyeing process control, including advance models of control; fuzzy logic and model based on physico-chemical processes. Colour used as constant value will be applied for formation of fuzzy logic model, used for complex colour designing, automatic dye selection, direct transfer of colour coordinates data into the dyeing recipe setup system, advance recipe correction, as well as control and colour matching. Project research will enable use of new instrumental methods and development of researcher’s creativity, while graduate students and

potential PhD students will be given a chance to get acquainted with scientific methodology, development of experimental skills and writing scientific papers.

Research register

Research deliverables Influence of dye’s chemical constitution and mode of dye-fibre bond onto antibacterial (e.g. Staphiloccoci, Escherichia), UVA and UVB protection properties. Influence of additives (electrolytes and surfactants) on dyeing process and degree of water pollution. Control of, in dye-bath and wastewaters, present electrolytes – elaboration of mathematical model. Further results considering influence of dye onto protection properties are expected. Application of thermo sensible dyes on children clothing. Influence of textile substrate’s pre-treatment (enzymatic, plasmatic pre-treatment etc.) on dyeing kinetics and energy saving. Results of wastewater purifying and discoloration methods, with the emphasis on salt removal using physico-chemical methods, nano filtration and reverse osmosis. Colour as constant value of monitoring process, dye properties and colour matching in design applying evolutionary algorithms. Application of nano size particles. Influence of surfactants onto reactivity, affinity, exhaustion and fixation degree of reactive dyes. Advantages and disadvantages of physico-chemical decolouring methods. Dye degradation products and their toxicity (considering aromatic components) in wastewaters. Selection of dyestuff and its interaction with in the dye-bath present additives. Mathematical model based on measured values will be elaborated, while control system including a model based on physico-chemical processes will be applied. Fuzzy logic model, based on colour as constant value within control system will be worked out. Application of capsulated dyestuff and nano particles of zink and silver for special use (medical textiles). Pre-treatment of hydrophobic, synthetic fibres in the aim of increasing hydrophility and applicability of, in water soluble, dyes. From the economical and ecological aspect, a more acceptable system of purifying and decolouring wastewaters ii expected. Mathematical model based on the analyses of input and output measured values, considering coloured waters, will be elaborated, while a control system using advance models, such as fuzzy logic (model based on rules) and based on physicochemical processes model. Evolutionary algorithms for modelling computer design of fabrics based on principals of subjective asessment. Model must comply with standards, flexible, stabile, precise, and easily applicable. It includes complete process modelling: dyeing, colour control and its relation to dye. These models involve kinetics models (Nernst, Langmuir) modified for dye - dissolved dye. Applying CCM (computer colour matching) methods based on Kubelka-Munk theory, spectral characteristics and colour parameters according to CIEL*a*b* system, a model of fuzzy logic for complex design by colour, automatic dye selection, direct transfer of colour coordinates data in to the dyeing recipe setup system, advance recipe correction, as well as control and colour matching, will be elaborated. Evolutionary algorithms for modelling computer design of fabrics based on principals of subjective asessment. Publications ˚ urdica Parac-Ostreman, Ana Sutlovic´, Vedran A ˚ urasˇevic´ and Tjasa Griessler Bulc, “Use of wetland A for dye-house waste waters purifying purposes”, Asian Journal of Water, Environment and Pollution, Vol. 4, No. 1, pp. 101-106.

83

IJCST 19,6

84

˚ urdica Parac-Osterman, Vedran A ˚ urasˇevic´, Ana Sutlovic´, “Comparison of some chemical and A physical-chemical waste water discoloring methods”, Chemistry in Industry, in publication. ˚ urdica Parac-Osterman, Tomislav Rolich, “Fuzzy logic based Martinia Ira Glogar, Darko Grundler, A approach to textile surface structure influence in colour matching”, AATCC Rewiev, in publication. ˚ urasˇevic´ (2007), “Dyeing Properties of Vesna Tralic´-Kulenovic´, Livio Racane, Ana Sutlovic´, Vedran A New Benzothiazol Disperse Dyestuff”, XX. Croatian Meeting of Chemists and Chemical Engineers, February 26 – March 1, 2007, Zagreb, Croatia. ˚ urdica Parac-Ostreman, Nevenka Tkalec Makovec, Ana Sutlovic´, Ljerka Dugan (2007), A “Staphylococcus Aureus and Escherichia Coli Behavior on Undyed and Dyed Wool”, XX. Croatian Meeting of Chemists and Chemical Engineers, February 26 – March 1, 2007, Zagreb, Croatia. ˚ urdica Parac-Osterman, Ana Sutlovic´, Vedran A ˚ urasˇevic´ (2007), “Application of Wetland System”, A Textile Dyes Zagreb 2007, March 9th 2007, Zagreb, Croatia. ˚ urdica Parac-Osterman, Ana Sutlovic´, Martinia Ira Glogar (2007), “Dyeing Wool With Natural Dyes in A Light of the Technological Heritage”, 7th annual Textile Conference by Autex: “From Emerging Innovations to Global Business”, 26-28 June 2007, Tampere, Finland. ˚ urdica Parac-Osterman, Ana Sutlovic´, Vedran A ˚ urasˇevic´: Application of Wool, CA and PP Fibers as A Filters in Wetland Pretreatment Media Formation, University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile technology Intrenational Conference on Multi Functions of Wetland Systems, 26-29 June, Legnaro (Padova), Italy.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovic´a 30, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 48 77 352; Fax: +385 1 48 77 352; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Drago Katovic´, Ph.D. Research Staff: Asoc. Prof. Sandra Bischof Vukusˇic´, Ph.D.; Prof. emeritus Ivo Soljacˇic´, Ph.D.; Dubravka Dosˇen Sˇver, Ph.D.; Sandra Flincˇec Grgac, B.Sc.; Asoc. Prof. Radovan Despot, Ph.D.; Asist. Prof. Jelena Trajkovic´, Ph.D.; Asist. Prof. Branka Lozo, Ph.D.; Luka Cˇavara, M.Sc.; Bozˇo Tomic´, M.c.; Prof. Charles Yang, Ph.D.; Prof. Christian Schram, Ph.D.

Alternative eco-friendly processing & methods of cellulose chemical modification Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Cˇateks, d.d., www.cateks.hr Faculty of Forestry, Croatia; Faculty of Graphic Art, Croatia; University of Georgia, USA; University of Innsbruck, Austria Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011. Source of support: Ministy of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Multifunctional eco-friendly textile finishing, Polycarboxylic acids, Protective functionalities, Chemical modification of cellulose, Microvawe treatment of cellulose materials

One of the requests of European Union for higher competiteveness of european market is rebuilding and reconstruction of traditional industrial sectors, especialy textile and wood industry. According to the strategical goals of the Republic of Croatia the project emphasizes the use of highly sofisticated production processes and treatments of cellulose materials i.e. obtaining additional and improved characteristics of wooden and paper matherials which can be acchieved by using high-tech processes and by introduction of nano- micro- and bio-technologies. One of the alternative methods for replaciong the conventional reactants containing formaldehyde which were used in textile and wood treatments so far, would be the modification with eco-friendly agents such as polycarboxylic acids. Efficiency of these treatments will be determined quantitatively by ester crosslinking analytical methods or by means of isocratic HPLC and spectrophotometric FTIR method. Standard methods of textile, wood and paper material testing would be used for examining their protective performance and resistance to weathering conditions. Part of the proposed project will be development of optional multifunctional treatment that would provide better protection of cellulose materials against microorganisms, UV, electromagnetic rays, flame, oil or water. Therefore a particular attention will be payed to development and application of the agents which will not only improve the characteristics of textile matherials but also give it permanent freshness and provide additional care and protection i.e. medical characteristics. Optimisation of alternative processing and methods will provide ecologically and economicaly favorable characteristics of treated matherials. Further process optimisation in order to improve processing quality could be obtained with new alternative method using microwave energy. Improved characteristics obtained with this method in our previous research confirm its usability in textile finishing processes as well as in chemical modification of wood. Previous research in this field represent worlwide novelty which should be by all means continued.

Project aims and objectives The purpose and aim of the proposed project is to obtain highly valuable and multifunctional treated textile materials that will acquire analogous price on the demanding market. This is the basic condition for the survival of Croatian textile, wood and paper industry on EU market. In textile area experiments will be conducted to obtain multifunctional environmentally friendly textile material which will simultaneously offer dimensional stability, flame retardancy, crease and antimicrobial resistance and will have no effects on human health. Further goal is to obtain chemicaly modified wood that will have reduced shrinking and water absorption as well as to obtain flame retardancy on wood and paper products. One of the equally important goals is construction of a semi industrial microwave device for continuous planar treatment of cellulose materials. The results obtained would be presented in the world best known papers in the relevant field. The most important goal of the project is affirmation of Croatian science in Europe and rest of the World, by presenting the results in international papers so as on International Conferences. It is important to stress that established cooperation with EU and USA experts, so as with their scientific institutions will be continued and expanded.

Research register

85

IJCST 19,6

In this project, where will scientists from abroad have an active contribution with their work, further contribution to development of high quality products will be added. We certainly hope it will affect development of Croatian industry and economy.

Research deliverables

86

Publications Katovic´, D., Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Flincˇec Grgac, S. (2007), “Crosslinking cotton with citric acid and organophosphorus agent for the purpose of flame retardant finishing”, 85th Textile Institute Conference, Colombo, Sri Lanka, pp. 820-824. Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Flincˇec Grgac, S., Katovic´, D. (2007), “Catalyst influence in low formaldehyde flame retardant finishing system”, 7th AUTEX Conference, Tampere, pp. 60-61. Flincˇec Grgac, S., Katovic´, D., Bischof Vukusˇic´, S. (2007), “Combination of organophosphorus agent and Citric acid in Durable Press Finishing of Cellulose Fabrics”, XX. Croatian Society of Chemical Engineers, Zagreb, Croatia, p. 281. Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Flinecˇ Grgac, S., Katovic´, D. (2007), “Antimicrobial Textile Treatment and Problems of Testing Methods”, Tekstil, Vol. 56, accepted for publication.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovica, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: + 385 1 3712 540; Fax: + 385 1 3712 599; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Dubravko Rogale, Ph.D. Research Staff: Prof. Zvonko Drgacˇevic´, Ph.D.; Prof. Gojko Nikolic´, Ph.D.; Prof. Maja Vinkovic´; Snjezˇana Firsˇt Rogale, Ph.D.; Slavenka Petrak, Ph.D.; Goran Cˇubric´, B. Sc.; Bojan Mauser, B. Sc.

Intelligent garment and environment Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Intelligent garment, Active thermal protection, Micropneumatic system, Intelligent sick bed, Adaptable ironing machine, Multiaxial testing of textiles and their joints Investigations, construction and development of intelligent article of clothing related to its direct environment by developing an adaptable bed, adaptable ironing machine and measuring instrument for multiaxial testing physical-mechanical properties of technical textile and joined parts. The purpose of the project is that a research team makes researches resulting in a construction and realization of the first intelligent garment whose basic function is

active thermal protection. It contains a sensor system for monitoring the values of air temperature inside and outside of the garment, data bus for data transfer, microcomputer and micro controller, and execution devices for the automatic regulation of thermal protection value. Controlling conduction and convection of the heat of the human body regulates thermal protection in such a way that based on anthropometric measurements several types of various air thermo insulation elastic chambers are constructed which are integrated into the construction of the garment between the outer shell and lining. Thermoinsulation chambers consist of several segments and have a twofold function so that by inflating sealing properties are assumed, and the heat loss of the human body by convection can be regulated and the thickness of the air chambers can be changed by program, whereby the heat loss of the human body by conduction can to be regulated. Micropneumatic elements and the chambers would be equipped with sensors of air pressure integrated into them, because depending on air pressure values in the chambers there will be defined chamber forms, their sealing properties and thickness on which thermal resistance depends. Investigations would prove that the integration and efficient joint operation of the integrated sensors, microcomputers with associated algorithms of intelligent behavior and actuators so that an independent action of the garment is realized with the aim of thermal protection whereby the garment would have the attribute of active, adaptable and intelligent behavior in variable temperature conditions. Communication possibilities of intelligent garment with the environment would be examined and an intelligent sick bed, adaptable ironing-machine and an instrument for testing load would be developed. They would practically use the same or very similar sensor, computer and micropneumatic actuator systems, connection techniques, constructions and design as well as intelligent garment.

Project aims and objectives The basic aim of the proposed research project is to investigate the possible construction and practical realization of an intelligent article of clothing with thermal protection, adaptable bed, ironing machine for the technological manufacturing process and necessary measuring instruments. The purpose of the investigation is to investigate characteristics of all elements of the system and behavior of the system as a whole and the communication between intelligent garment and environment. In addition to the basic aim of all investigations it is necessary to point out other aims too emerging as the result of the said investigation. Establishment of the leading European and world scientific role in investigations and development of intelligent garment. Writing 4 doctoral dissertations in the mentioned field (two dissertations in the mentioned field have been registered and approved by the Senate of the University of Zagreb. To prove that the Croatian clothing industry possesses a strong scientific research basis that guaranties it a technological excellence on demanding foreign markets.

Research deliverables After 1st year: Selection and investigation of properties of installation materials, sensors, microcontroller systems and actuators as well as materials for making

Research register

87

IJCST 19,6

88

thermoinsulation chambers. Shapes and constructions of thermoinsulation chambers adjusted to dynamic anthropometric properties and necessary degree of freedom of movements, parameters of ultrasonic welding of chambers and influence of geometry, arrangement of chamber elements on thermoinsulation characteristics. Manufacture of microcontroller systems, sensor amplifiers, actuator drive and power supply system. Collection of technical literature and familiarizing with problems of beds for patients, ethimology and decubitus. Collection of technical documentation on the achievements of the technique of the intelligent ironing machine. Investigations of optimal ironing parameters: specific pressure, humidity, temperature, duration of humidification and drying. After 2nd year: Computer digitalization of cutting parts of the garment, modeling, seam allowance and cutting pattern production with NC units. Installation of shell elements and thermoinsulation chambers together with integration of buses of the microcontroller system. Investigations and check of the characteristics of the operation of the sensor and actuator system and the operation of the power supply system. Actuation and investigation of the operation of the program languages and tools for the thermoinsulaiton chambers and 3D construction of all installation elements. Implementation of the microcontroller program. Manufacture of a functional prototype. Experimentation with various forms of the bladder for beds for patients on segments, various materials, procedure of bladder elongation without stretching, method of joining several segments. The process of the controlled generation of wet air with specific humidity and the accurate control of the intelligent ironing machine will be implemented. After 3rd year: Design and examination of the complex program for measuring by means of integrated sensors, data interpretation and making decisions on the optimal combination of thermal protection, actuation of thermoinsulation chambers. Creation of an algorithm of intelligent behavior. The application of the PWM technology and communication protocol with display. Functional examination of the whole system of intelligent garment. Measurements and final check of the characteristics of the 3D construction, thermoinsulation chambers and all integrated components. Design of the sensor system for measuring the pressure in the bladders of the bed for patients and segments respectively. Determination of the optimum air pressure. Devising a proportional pneumatic system that can independently and quickly change the pressure level in each segment and bladder. System design of measuring the ironing surface of the adaptable ironing machine by tactile sensors or camera system with computer program. After 4th year: Investigations of autonomous operation and characteristics of an intelligent article of clothing in variable climatic conditions in the air conditioning equipment and in real atmospheric conditions. Improvement and conformation of the algorithm of intelligent behavior. Investigations and improvement of the communication channel between intelligent article of clothing and its wearer. Devising and experimentation with operation algorithms and control program of the system of the bed for patients, and the use of the touch screen monitors.

Examination of the sensor system for accurate measuring fabric moisture, and a system for data acquisition about material type and its thickness by means of the integrated chip or bar code in the intelligent ironing machine. After 5th year: Investigations of the communication channels between the intelligent garment and its environment by using suitable wireless communication. Unifying all systems of the bed for patients and designing a prototype with examination in real conditions. Unifying all partial systems into the operation system of the adaptable ironing machine that, depending on sensor data, makes own decisions on the most suitable operation parameters using fuzzy logic for making decisions and integrated operation algorithms. The system should be examined on prototype. Publications Rogale, Dubravko; Firsˇt Rogale, Snjezˇana; Dragcˇevic´, Zvonko; Nikolic´, Gojko. Intelligent Article of Clothing with an Active Thermal Protection, PK20030727, (patent). Nikolic´, Gojko; Ujevic´, Darko. Protractor for Measurement of Shoulder Slope (patent claim). Dragcˇevic´, Zvonko; Rogale, Dubravko. Pneumatski ulozˇak za sprecˇavanje deformacija perive obuc´e (patent claim). Zˇeljko Sˇomodi, Anica Hursa, Dubravko Rogale (2007), “A minimisation algorithm with application to optimal design of reinforcements in textiles and garments”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2007, 19, 3/4, 159 - 166 (original scientific paper). Nikolic´, Gojko; Cˇubric´, Goran (2007), “Investigating the positioning edge accuracy of sensors in textile and clothing manufacture”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2007, 19, 3/4, 178 - 185 (original scientific paper). Edita Vujasinovic, Zeljka Jankovic, Zvonko Dragcevic, Igor Petrunic, Dubravko Rogale (2007), “Investigation of the strength of ultrasonically welded sails”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2007, 19, 3/4, 204-214 (original scientific paper). Snjezˇana Firsˇt Rogale, Dubravko Rogale, Zvonko Dragcevic, Gojko Nikolic, Milivoj Bartosˇ (2007), “Technical systems in intelligent clothing with active thermal protection”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2007, 19, 3/4, 222-233 (original scientific paper). Petrak, Slavenka (2007), The method of 3D garment construction and cutting pattern transformation models / Doctoral thesis. Zagreb: Tekstilno-tehnolosˇki fakultet, 17.05. 2007., 220 str. Voditelj: Rogale, Dubravko. Snjezˇana Firsˇt Rogale (2007), Intelligent clothing with active thermal protection / Doctoral thesis. Zagreb: Tekstilno-tehnolosˇki fakultet, 19.03 2007., 224 str. Voditelj: Dragcˇevic´, Zvonko. Hursa, Anica; Rogale, Dubravko; Sˇomodi, Zˇeljko (2006), “Application of Numerical Methods in the Textile and Clothing Technology”// Tekstil. Vol. 55 (2006), 12; 613-623 (review paper). Ujevic´, Darko; Firsˇt-Rogale, Snjezˇana; Nikolic´, Gojko; Rogale, Dubravko (2006), “Survey of Development Achievements in the Sewing Technology - IMB 2006”. // Tekstil, cˇasopis za tekstilnu tehnologiju i konfekciju. Vol. 55 (2006.), 12; 624-631 (presentation on symposium). Ujevic´, Darko; Rogale, Dubravko; Hrastinski, Marijan; Drenovac, Mirko; Szirovicza, Lajos; Lazibat, Tonc´i; Bacˇic´, Jadranka; Prebeg, Zˇivka; Mencl-Bajs, Zlatka; Mujkic´, Aida; Sˇutina, Marija; Klanac, Ivan; Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, Blazˇenka; Dolezˇal, Ksenija; Hrzˇenjak, Renata (2006), “Standardization, Anthropometric Surveys and Croatian Anthropometric System” // Tekstil. Vol. 55 (2006), 10; 516526 (review paper). Sˇomodi, Zˇeljko; Hursa, Anica; Rolich, Tomislav; Rogale, Dubravko (2007), “Numerical analysis and optimisation of mechanical reinforcements on clothes” // Zbornik radova Prvoga susreta Hrvatskog drusˇtva za mehaniku / Cˇanadija, Marko (ur.). Rijeka: Hrvatsko drusˇtvo za mehaniku, 2007. 173-178 (professional paper).

Research register

89

IJCST 19,6

90

Zagreb, Croatia University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 30, HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 37 12 567; Fax: +385 1 37 12 535; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Assist.prof. Edita Vujasinovic, Ph.D. Research Staff: Prof. Maja Andrassy, Ph.D.; Prof. Zvonko Dragcevic, Ph.D.; Prof. Dubravko Rogale, Ph.D.; Igor Petrunic, M.Sc.; Ruzica Surina, B.Sc.

Implementation of new materials objective measurement and evaluation system in the processes of technical and intelligent textile design Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Maribor, Slovenia Project start date: 1 January 2006 Project end date: 31 December 2007 Source of support: Ministry of science, education and sport, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Objective evaluation, Technical textiles, Intelligent textiles, Design The intention of this project is to investigate and to establish objective evaluation systems for unconventional textile materials (composites, laminates, PCM) according to the specific requirements on particular type of technical and intelligent textiles, through systematic approach and application of conventional and/or modern methods and procedures of textile testing.

Project aims and objectives Exact characterization of new materials will enable comparison of such materials (regardless of their structure and composition), so that expert data basis for the prediction of their behavior during use e.g. in real condition will be possible.

Research deliverables On the basis of such investigations multi-component textile system will be designed and optimized, respecting the high and targeted property of such materials in use. Publications E. Vujasinovic, Z. Jankovic, Z. Dragcevic, I. Petrunic, D. Rogale (2007), “Investigation of the strength of ultrasonically welded sails”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 19(2007) No. 3/4, 204-214, ISSN: 0955-6222. E. Vujasinovic, Z. Dragcevic, Z. Bezic (2007), “Descriptors For The Objective Evaluation Of Sailcloth Weather Resistance”, Proceedings of 7th Autex Conference 2007, Tampere 26-28th June 2007, Finland; ISBN: 978-952-15-1794-5. Ruzˇica Surina & Maja Somogyi (2006), “Biodegradable polymers for biomedical purpose”, Tekstil Vol. 55 (2006), No. 12; 642-645.

First Rogale, Snjezana; Rogale, Dubravko; Dragcevic, Zvonko; Nikolic, Gojko; Bartos, Milivoj. (2006), “Technical Systems in Intelligent Clothing with Active Thermal Protection” // Book of Proceedings of the 3rd International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference –; Magic World of Textiles / Dragcevic, Zvonko (ur.).Zagreb: Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb, 2006. 413-419. First Rogale, Snjezana; Rogale, Dubravko; Dragcevic, Zvonko; Nikolic, Gojko; Bartos, Milivoj. (2006), “The algorithm of the intelligent behavior of the article of clothing” Annals of DAAAM for 2006 & Proceedings of the 17th International DAAAM Symposium “Intelligent Manufacturing & Automation: Focus on Mechatronics and Robotics” / Katalinic, Branko (ur.).Bec: DAAAM Intaernational Vienna, 2006. 125-126. Vujasinovic E., Dragcevic Z., Gersak. (2006), “The impact of enzyme finish on the quality and hend of denim fabric”, Proceedings of the 37th International Symposium on Novelties in textiles, Ljubljana 2006, 78-82.

Zagreb, Croatia University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovic´a 30, HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 37 12 521; Fax: +385 1 37 12 599; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Assoc. Prof. Emira Pezelj, Ph.D. Research Staff: Prof. Ruzˇica Cˇunko, Ph.D.; Prof. Maja Andrassy, Ph.D.; Assist. Prof. Edita Vujasinovic, Prof. Vili Bukosˇek, Ph.D.; Antoneta Tomljenovic´, Ph. D.; Sanja Ercegovic´, M. Sc.; Maja Somogyi, B. Sc.; Dubravka Gordosˇ, M. Sc.

Mulifunctional Human Protective Textile Materials Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Source of support: Croatian Ministry of Science, Education and Sport, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Protective textiles, Multifunctionality, Smart textiles, Ceramic coatings, Sol-gel process The investigations proposed have been motivated by the fact that people are more and more exposed to various influences from the environment, which can be harmful to their health. Such harmful influences are, for example, UV irradiation, electromagnetic smog, high temperature, fire, etc. Contemporary textile materials for personal protection are required to offer high efficiency, in most cases multifunctionality, as well as a necessary level of comfort. The fabrics used are high-performance ones and interdisciplinary approach is necessary in research dealing with their development and manufacture. The thesis we propose is that the application of contemporary research results in the field of materials can be used to offer a new contribution to the development of multifunctional protective textile materials. The accent will be given to a purposeful surface modification of fabrics, using environmentally friendly agents and processes, which is in accordance with contemporary European trends of research in the field of materials. Special attention will be paid to investigating modifications using the new sol/gel process, combined with preceding ultrasound, laser and plasma treatment of textile surfaces.

Research register

91

IJCST 19,6

92

New possibilities of manufacturing efficient protective layers will be investigated, using various inorganic substances, including functional layers of nano-dimension made of hybrid inorganic-organic polymers. The aim is to optimise modification parameters of achieving efficient protection from UV and EM irradiation, as well as to increase resistance to abrasion, cutting and heat in particular materials, establishing antimicrobial properties at the same time. Adequate testing procedures will be established to evaluate the newly created materials. New levels of knowledge is expected to be achieved regarding correlation of protective properties and textile fabric composition, as well as the development of practical processes of obtaining aimed fabric modifications and the development of the methods of new material evaluation. New knowledge will contribute to the quality of education in the field of textile materials. Transfer of knowledge into actual industrial production is also expected. The results will be presented on international conferences and will be published in relevant international publications. The obtained results to be obtained could be used to stimulate manufacture of new high-performance textile materials for special purposes in Croatia.

Project aims and objectives The purpose of the investigations is to obtain new knowledge in the field of material development, especially regarding the new composites with textiles as a basic component. The knowledge should be directly applicable in practice, and simultaneously used to improve the quality of education, of both students, young researchers and experts from the industry. The new knowledge is expected to further the development of the Department of textile materials, where the investigations are organised. Based on the knowledge of high-performance materials, that has resulted in the development of the composites, and the role of textile component in them, the possibility will be investigated of obtaining high-performance composites for protection, in which textiles are the basic component. These are new textile materials to be used as protection from harmful influences of the general and working environment in high-risk industrial processes and other activities where people are exposed to risks of mechanical, thermal or chemical injuries, of infection by micro-organisms and even fatal risks from the causes. This is why protective materials are expected to offer high efficiency under various conditions, while the best solutions are aimed at obtaining multi-functional protection by a single material. The purpose of the research is to investigate the solutions that could be applied in textile industry, which could stimulate the introduction of knowledge-based and new-technology-based production in the industry, through adapting the industry to manufacture high-performance composite materials for special purposes. The aim of the investigation is to determine the procedures of obtaining multi-functional textiles for personal protection, simple to manufacture and use. The protective properties will be obtained by modifying the surfaces of the fabrics of various constructions, with the aim to establish optimal modification procedures and processing parameters which could offer efficient protection from individual influences, or, otherwise, protection from more influences. The investigations are supposed to result in solutions for objective evaluation of the effect achieved and the durability of protection as well, but also in the evaluation of the adequacy of the materials for a particular purpose. Adequate testing methods and procedures will be developed, appropriate indicators defined and the correlation of the modification parameters and properties achieved established.

Research deliverables The purpose of the investigations is to obtain new knowledge in the field of material development, especially regarding the new composites with textiles as a basic component. The knowledge should be directly applicable in practice, and simultaneously used to improve the quality of education, of both students, young researchers and experts from the industry. The new knowledge is expected to further the development of the Department of textile materials, where the investigations are organised. Based on the knowledge of high-performance materials, that has resulted in the development of the composites, and the role of textile component in them, the possibility will be investigated of obtaining high-performance composites for protection, in which textiles are the basic component. These are new textile materials to be used as protection from harmful influences of the general and working environment in high-risk industrial processes and other activities where people are exposed to risks of mechanical, thermal or chemical injuries, of infection by micro-organisms and even fatal risks from the causes. This is why protective materials are expected to offer high efficiency under various conditions, while the best solutions are aimed at obtaining multi-functional protection by a single material. The purpose of the research is to investigate the solutions that could be applied in textile industry, which could stimulate the introduction of knowledge-based and new-technology-based production in the industry, through adapting the industry to manufacture high-performance composite materials for special purposes. The aim of the investigation is to determine the procedures of obtaining multi-functional textiles for personal protection, simple to manufacture and use. The protective properties will be obtained by modifying the surfaces of the fabrics of various constructions, with the aim to establish optimal modification procedures and processing parameters which could offer efficient protection from individual influences, or, otherwise, protection from more influences. The investigations are supposed to result in solutions for objective evaluation of the effect achieved and the durability of protection as well, but also in the evaluation of the adequacy of the materials for a particular purpose. Adequate testing methods and procedures will be developed, appropriate indicators defined and the correlation of the modification parameters and properties achieved established. Publications R.Cˇunko, S.Ercegovic´, D.Gordosˇ, E.Pezelj (2006), “Influence of ultrasound on phisical properties of wool fibres”, Tekstil, Vol. 55 (2006) 1-9. A. Tomljenovic´, E. Pezelj, F. Sluga (2007), “Application of TiO2 nanoparticles for UV protective shade textile materials”, Proceedings of 38th symposium of textile novelity, Ljubljana 21st June 2007, Slovenija. E. Vujasinovic, Z. Jankovic, Z. Dragcevic, I. Petrunic, D. Rogale (2007), “Investigation of the strength of ultrasonically welded sails”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 19 (2007) No. 3/4, 204-214, ISSN: 0955-6222. E. Vujasinovic, Z. Dragcevic, Z. Bezic (2007), “Descriptors For The Objective Evaluation Of Sailcloth Weather Resistance”, Proceedings of 7th Autex Conference 2007, Tampere 26-28th June 2007, Finland; ISBN: 978-952-15-1794-5. Ruzˇica Sˇurina i Maja Somogyi (2006), “Biodegradable polymers for biomedical purpose”, Tekstil, Vol. 55 (2006) No. 12; 642-645.

Research register

93

IJCST 19,6

94

Ruzˇica Sˇurina i Maja Andrassy (2007), “Resistance of lignocellulosic fibers to microorganisms”, XX. hrvatski skup kemicˇara i kemijskih inzˇenjera, knjiga sazˇetaka, posvec´en Lavoslavu Ruzˇicˇki i Vladimiru Prelogu, hrvatskim nobelovcima u kemiji, Zagreb, 26. veljacˇa – 01. ozˇujka 2007., 286. Sˇurina Ruzˇica i Andrassy Maja (2007), “Quality of Modified Flax Fibers”, The 18th International DAAAM Symposium, “Intelligent Manufacturing & Automation: Focus on Creativity, Responsibility and Ethics of Engineers”, 24-27th October 2007.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology,University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipivic´a 30, HR-10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +38514877351; Fax: +38514877357; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. emeritus, Ivo Soljacˇic´, Ph.D. Research Staff: Asoc. Prof. Tanja Pusˇic´, Ph.D.; Prof. Ljerka Bokic´, Ph.D.; Asst. Prof. Branka Vojnovic´, Ph.D.; Iva Rezic´, Ph.D.; Prof. Jelena Macan, Ph.D.; Asoc. Prof. Barbara Simoncˇic´, Ph.D., Prof. Sonja Sˇostar-Turk, Ph.D.; Asist.Prof. Sabina Fijan, Ph.D.; Mila Nuber, M.Sc.; Ivan Sˇimic´, M.Sc.; Dinko Pezelj, Ph.D., Versˇec Josip, M.Sc.

Ethics and Ecology in Textile Finishing and Care Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

University of Maribor and University of Ljubljana, Slovenia Labud, d.d. Zagreb and Vodovod, Zagreb Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Wellness finishing of textiles, Determination of harmful substances on textiles, Toxicological and alergenic properties, Environmental protection, Hygiene and effects of textile care, Textile material sample preparation Modern textile finishing processes have to fulfill high demands due to the expectations of new textile materials properties and their persistence during care. Especially interesting in this respect are the new production processes of socks which include implementation of microcapsules that can release active materials for skin moisturizing. Their primal role is prevention of dryness, dandruff and allergenic reactions of the skin. The most suitable analytical methods for determination of durability to washing, friction and sweat will be tested. Durability to washing of products with special properties will be tested with different amounts of anionic and cationic surfactants in liquid detergents. The mechanism of adsorption and desorption, their influence on primary effect of the treatment, and the influence of the pH value and the mechanical way of treatment will be tested. On the ground of the obtained results, analytical methods for determination of micro components in the macro components of textile materials should be proposed, without regards to the specifications of the materials or the method of the treatment. The testing will involve a review of the analytical method of each individual analytical procedure as well as its impact on the obtained information.

The parameters of the analytical procedure will be worked out with the purpose of restoration of historical textile by destructive and non-destructive methods for the preservation of national heritage. European controlling methods of new materials have ethical demands involving the human population health which demands an environmental friendly process. For this purpose the processes of textile finishing and care will be optimized. The possibility of obtaining new preventive properties, which were not previously present on the textile material or improvement of present protection, will be tested. The impact of washing cycles with detergent and UV absorber on pastel colored textile materials made of cotton, polyester and their mixtures on UPF and the shade change will be investigated. The quality control of water and effluents will be based on the determination of micro quantities of potential allergens, heavy metals, pesticides, dyes, and surfactants. The traces of solvents will be controlled on the clothing material and in the air during the chemical cleaning and further treatment processing.

Project aims and objectives The main goal of this investigation is to stimulate ethic ecological demands on the production processes, care processes, and thereby on the utilization properties of the textile materials wherewith it would be possible to get the optimal properties of materials regarding their functional properties by avoiding all possible harmful allergenic and toxicological influences of textile materials to consumers. Elaboration of production and textile finishing processes for the optimal effects (wellness finishing, protection from unwanted changes of utilization properties in texcare, elaboration of pastel dyed textiles laundering in detergent with UV absorber, additional laundering quality – UV protection), formulation of new compositions for laundering for the purpose of avoiding secondary harmful effects in modern conditions with maximal saving of water and energy, more safe treatment with solvents during dry cleaning. By monitoring of harmful inorganic and organic substances that are present in micro quantities on the textile materials, textile accessories, textile wastewaters and finished textile products, new analytical methods would be determined. Sampling procedures, sampling preparation steps, selection of appropriate analytical method and the processing of the obtained result will be optimized. In this investigation the mathematical modes for guiding of analytical procedure will be applied, what is economically justified because the time spend for investigation is much shorter, and the consumption of chemical reagents, energy and emission of harmful substances to the environment reduced. Special contribution will be in development of analytical methods for determination of components present on the historical textile, for the purpose of avoiding the damaging of the textile material during restoration conservation treatments.

Research deliverables The project is scheduled over three years. Eco problems and human ecology, especially presence of heavy metal traces in textile processes and fibres will be investigated and some results will be published. Analytical methods for qualitative and quantitative determination will be developed. The influence of sweat on the heavy metal emission will be tested from colored textile materials.

Research register

95

IJCST 19,6

96

Possibility and durability of wellness finishing effects particularly on PA pantyhose’s as well as methods will be established. UPF and change in shade of white and pastel colored textiles made from cotton, PET, PA and their blend with cotton during laundering with addition fluorescent compounds in detergent will be researched, too. Hygienic laundering with chemothermic and chemical treatments in order to destroy micro-organisms in compliance with existing recommendations will be done. Potentially irritations of the skin caused by textiles, finishing agents and inadequate rinsing during laundering will be studied. Investigation of anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactant adsorption and desorption influenced by different composition of textile fibres, pH and temperature will be performed. The adsorption and desorption will be studied in order to establish a correlation between zeta potential and swelling capacity of textile fibres. Publications Rezic´, Iva; Steffan, Ilse (2007), “ICP-OES determination of metals present in textile materials”, Microchemical Journal. 85 (2007), 1; 46-51 (scientific paper). Fijan, Sabina; Pusˇic´, Tanja; Sˇostar-Turk, Sonja; Neral, Branko (2007), “The influence of industrial laundering of hospital textiles on the properties of cotton fabrics”, Textile Research Journal. (2007) (in publishing). Pusˇic´, Tanja; Jelicˇic´, Jasenka; Nuber, Mila; Soljacˇic´, Ivo (2007), “Istrazˇivanje sredstava za kemijsko bijeljenje u pranju”, Tekstil. Pusˇic´, Tanja; Soljacˇic´, Ivo (2007), “Changes in Shade of Cotton Fabrics during Laundering with Detergents containing Fluorescent Brightening Agent and UV absorber”, AATCC Review. Vojnovic´, Branka; Bokic´, Ljerka; Kozina, Maja; Kozina, Ana (2007), “Optimization of analytical procedure for phosphate determination in detergent powders and in loundry wastewater”, Tekstil.

Zagreb, Croatia University of Zagreb, Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 30, HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 37 12 566; Fax: +385 1 37 12 599; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Maja Andrassy, Ph.D. Research Staff: Prof. Zvonko Dragcevic, Ph.D.; Assoc.Prof. Emira Pezelj, Ph.D.; Prof. Dubravka Raffaelli, Ph.D.; Assist. Prof. Edita Vujasinovic, Ph.D.; Zvonko Orehovec, Ph.D.; Vera Friscic, M.Sc.; Ruzica Surina, B.Sc.; Prof. Majda Sfiligoj Smole, Ph.D.

High performance textile materials and added-value fibres Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

None University of Maribor Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Maribor, Slovenia Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sport, Republic of Croatia

Keywords: HP Materials, Textile Fibers, Textile Design Contemporary global trends of development in the field of textile fibres and fibrous materials have led to their increased use in various fields of industry and technique. Increase in consupmtion of these types of materials has constantly been recorded and by the beginning of the 21st century technical fibres account for half of all the fibres manufactured. The requirements imposed on fibres and materials in particular fields of application and extraordinary high and specific. These requirements have been met through fibre engineering, i.e. development of new generic types of fibres. It can be assumed that innovative manufacturing and finishing processes, applied to conventional fibres, will result in their added value, so that they can be used to design new fabrics of pre-determined end-use properties. Such improvements in fibre properties and their use in fabric manufacture of added market value and broader scope of application are completely in accordance with the intentions of the European technological platform for future textile and garment, but it can also strongly stimulate the development of Croatian textile industry and its comptetitiveness in the global market. This is supported by the fact that there are considerable research, industrial and raw-material potentials in Croatia, necessary to accomplish the goals. Although domestic production is mostly based on imported fibres, clearly defined modifications of fibre structure and propertties, even for domestic fibres, such as wool, flax, textile regenerates and fibres made from recycled PET, that have been used in Croatian textile industry insufficiently until now, could be used as a starting raw material for the manufacture of high-performance textiles. In this manner, domestic fibrous raw materials would cease being waste material and would become strategic Croatian raw material, as well as a basis of future rational management of natural resources and a step in approaching sustainable development trends, recommended by the European Union and United Nations. The investigations proposed aim at establishing the possibilities of modifying conventional fibres, as well as developing the methods and procedures of objective measurement and evaluation of unconventional textile materials, in accordance with specific rules and requirements for individual types of high-performance textiles, including composites reinforced with fibres of modified properties. The results obtained will offer the construction of high-performance materials based on conventional fibres of added value, as well as the design and optimisation in accordance with the properties of the fibres used and pre-determined high end-use properties.

Project aims and objectives The main purpose of the project proposed is to determine possible interventions and modifications of conventional fibres and textiles, so as to obtain added value and to broaden the scope of their application. This immrovement of fibres and their application in the manufacture of new, knowledge-based innovative textiles of added market value is in accordance with the short term (energy and materials) and long-term (nano-science, new materials, constructions and production processes) strategic trends of research in the Republic of Croatia, strategies of the European technological platform for the future of textiles and garment in the XXI century, as well as with the trends of rational management of raw material resources and the concept of sustainable development, as

Research register

97

IJCST 19,6

98

proposed by the EU and UN recommendations. Valuable results and new knowledge are expected, especially regarding ecologically friendly and economically feasible production of high-performance textiles through the usage of domestic raw materials in their manufacture. There is a broad diversity of fibres and constructions present in the area of non-conventional textile materials and structures, which makes objective characterisation of their quality a difficult task, we propose to develop new methods, procedures and equipment for testing, so as to enable higher degree of objectivity in quality evaluation. The investigations are planned to initiate the development and optimising of the manufacture of high-performance textiles, matched with their increased and more and more specified areas of application. The results expected to be obtained will enhance the scope of knowledge in the field of textile fibres, materials and textile testing, also valuable in the education of young researchers, knowledge transfer and preparation of future textile engineers for the European labour market.

Research deliverables The results of the investigation will be directly applicable in Croatian textile industry, since new solutions for designing high-performance materials, based on conventional fibres of added value, will be proposed as based on the results of the investigations proposed. As there are some processing capacities still in Croatia (Regeneracija, Kelteks, Vrbenka, Konoplja, LIO, Feniks), working with imported fibres, the system of objective description and evaluation of domestic fibrous raw materials (especially flax and wool), as well as some instructions regarding their environmentally acceptable manufacture, processing and modifications, with the aim of enhancing end-use properties, are expected to create adequate conditions for econbomically feasible manufacture of textiles. Higher content of domestic fibres and raw materials in manufacture of textile would be a sound basis for new development and growth of the Croatian textile industry and its competitiveness in the European and global markets, as well as for realising the principles of sustainable development and rational raw material resource management. Developments and innovations in testing metodology and objective evaluation of relenat properties of the modified fibres and new high-performance textiles will enhance objectivity of testing and evaluation of high-performance technical textiles in general, which is, not only in Croatia but globally as well, a problem with no acceptable solution on the horizon. Some testing methods are expected to be used in production monitoring and control, which could contribute to more reliable and stable manufacture and realising pre-planned levels of quality. The investigations proposed open the way to scientific and professional collaboration with other institutions and with the industry. Publications Ruzˇica Sˇurina i Maja Somogyi (2006), “Biodegradable polymers for biomedical purpose”, Tekstil Vol. 55 (2006) 12; 642-645. Ruzˇica Sˇurina i Maja Andrassy (2007), “Resistance of lignocellulosic fibers to microorganisms”, XX. hrvatski skup kemicˇara i kemijskih inzˇenjera, knjiga sazˇetaka, posvec´en Lavoslavu Ruzˇicˇki i Vladimiru Prelogu, hrvatskim nobelovcima u kemiji, Zagreb, 26. veljacˇa – 01. ozˇujka 2007., 286. Cindric´, Jasna (2007), Improvements Properties of Flax Fibers, diploma work, Zagreb, Tekstilnotehnolosˇki fakultet, 25.04. 2007., 56 str. Voditelj: Andrassy, Maja. Klasic´, Sanja (2007), Usable Properties of Modified Flax Fabric, diploma work, Zagreb, Tekstilnotehnolosˇki fakultet, 25.04. 2007., 53 str. Voditelj: Andrassy, Maja.

Sˇurina Ruzˇica i Andrassy Maja (2007): “Quality of Modified Flax Fibers”, The 18th International DAAAM Symposium, “Intelligent Manufacturing & Automation: Focus on Creativity, Responsibility and Ethics of Engineers”, 24-27th October 2007 (in press). E. Vujasinovic, Z. Jankovic, Z. Dragcevic, I. Petrunic, D. Rogale (2007), “Investigation of the strength of ultrasonically welded sails”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology Vol. 19(2007) No. 3/4, 204-214, ISSN: 0955-6222. E. Vujasinovic, Z. Dragcevic, Z. Bezic (2007), “Descriptors For The Objective Evaluation Of Sailcloth Weather Resistance”, Proceedings of 7th Autex Conference 2007, Tampere 26-28th June 2007, Finland; ISBN: 978-952-15-1794-5.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipivic´a 30, 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 48 77 357; Fax: +385 1 48 77 357; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Assoc. Prof. Sandra Bischof Vukusˇic´, Ph.D. Research Staff: Prof. Drago Katovic´, Ph.D.; Assoc. Prof. Tanja Pusˇic´, Ph.D.; Prof. Emeritus Ivo Soljacˇic´, Ph.D.; Sandra Flincˇec Grgac, B.Sc.

Antimicrobial finishing of textiles Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

University of Maribor, Zagreb Public Health Institute, Croatian National Institute of Public Health

Jadran, Hoisery Factory d.d., www.jadrancarapa.hr, Pamucˇna Industrija Duga Resa, d.d. www.pamucna-industrija.com

Project start date: 1 Janua;ry2005 Project end date: 1 January 2008 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Antimicrobial finishing, Antimicrobial agents, Testing methods for antibacterial activity, Testing methods for antifungal activity, Legislative regulations Protection of the environment and human health is now perceived as more important than the profitability and efficiency of a business. Antimicrobial finishing is used on textile fabrics to control bacteria, fungi, mold, mildew and algae present in everyday life, to resolve problems of deterioration, staining, odors and health concerns they cause. It has been long ago recognized that microorganisms, particularly bacteria can negatively influence textile fabrics, especially cotton ones. Most textiles used as clothes, underwear and bedclothes in hospitals and hotels are conducive to cross infection or transmission of diseases caused by microorganisms. During the project time alternative agents for the purpose of antimicrobial treatment will be developed. Two parallel investigations will be performed. Croatian partners will be developing system with polycarboxylic acids. Slovenian partners will be working on grafting of cyclodextrine on textile substrates. Their bacteriostatic activity will be determined using standard methods: JIS L 1902: 2002 and AATCC 147, before and after the washing process. The antimicrobial activity will be tested against gram positive (Staphylococcus aureus) and gram negative

Research register

99

IJCST 19,6

100

(Klebsiella pneumoniae) bacteria. Additional tests would include Escherichia coli, which might cause urinary infection that is of particular interest for underwear knitted fabrics. In order to prevent this negative microbial influence knitted material will be treated with several agents of different producers in order to choose the best one and recommend it to the industrial partners. For efficiency control of the treated products, strict conditions of the microbiological laboratory and qualified staff are necessary. For that reason cooperation with Zagreb Public Health Institute and Croatian National Institute of Public Health will be conducted within the project. Further experiments include development of alternative method for antimicrobial treatment, such as microwave treatment. Microwave effectiveness for the purpose of antimicrobial treatment will be determined.

Project aims and objectives Project aim: .

implementation of optimal antimicrobial treatments to Croatian and Slovenian market.

Project objectives: .

antibacterial and antifungal efficiency control of textiles treated with several antimicrobial agents, present at the market;

.

development of novel antimicrobial systems based on polycarboxylic acids; and

.

investigation of microwave effectiveness for the purpose of antimicrobial functionalisation.

Research deliverables .

Report ordered from SME “Pamucˇna industrija Duga Resa, d.d.”: Antimicrobial hygiene finishes, Usage guidelines.

.

Report ordered from SME “Jadran Hoisery Factory d.d.”.: Antimicrobial functionalisation of socks.

Publications Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Pusˇic´, T., Katovic´, D., Soljacˇic´, I. (2005), “Antimicrobial finishing of Socks”, 36. Simpozij o novostih v tekstilstvu, Tekstilije za sˇport in prosti cˇas, Ljubljana, Slovenia, ISBN 961-604530-X, pp. 163-177. Flincˇec Grgac, S., Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Katovic´, D., Matica, B., Dragosˇa, M. (2006a), “Antimicrobial Functionalisation of Knitted Fabrics”, Rewiew 2006, Published papers of Zagreb Public Health Institute, ISBN 953-6998-30-0, pp 147. Flincˇec Grgac, S., Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Katovic´, D., Matica, B., Dragosˇa, M. (2006b), “Antimicrobial Functionalisation of Knitted Fabrics”, 3rd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference, Dubrovnik, Croatia, ISBN 953-7105-12-1, pp. 270-275. Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Flincˇec Grgac, S., Katovic´, D. (2006c), “Antibacterial & Antifungal Protection of Military Socks”, 3rd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference, Dubrovnik, Croatia, ISBN 953-7105-12-1, pp. 241-246. Bischof Vukusˇic´, S., Flinecˇ Grgac, S., Katovic´, D. (2007), “Antimicrobial Textile Treatment and Problems of Testing Methods”, Tekstil, Vol. 56, accepted for publication.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovic´a 30, HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 3712575; Fax: +385 1 3712599; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Assoc. Prof. Stana Kovacˇevic´, Ph.D. Research Staff: Assist. Prof. Zˇeljko Penava, Ph.D.; Josip Hadina, M.Sc.; Ivana Schwarz, B.Sc. Assist. Prof. Andrea Pavetic´, Nikol Margetic´, B.Sc.; Irena Sˇabaric´, B.Sc.; Valent Strmecˇki, M.Sc.; Dubravka Gordosˇ, M.Sc.; Biserka Vuljanic´, M.Sc.; Prof. Vladimir Oresˇkovic´, Ph.D., in retirement; Assoc. Prof. Krste Dimitrovski, Ph.D., Blago Brkic´, Ph.D. in retirement, Diana Franulic´ Sˇaric´, M.Sc.

Advanced Technical Woven Fabrics and Processes Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Varteks d.d., Varazˇdin; Cˇateks d.d., Cˇ akovec; Kelteks d.o.o., Karlovac; Lola Ribar d.d., Karlovac; Uriho, Zagreb; Peng d.o.o., Zagreb Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2009 Source of support: Croatian Ministry of Science, Education and Sport, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Technical woven fabrics, Composites, Wool, Flax, Tapestry, Ethno heritage

University of Ljubljana, Slovenia

The subject of this project is advanced technical woven fabrics and processes. They are intended for the use in interior decoration, transportation, industrial and medical purposes, tapestry and the like. These fabrics contain raw materials in common, and domestic wool and linen yarn as well as glass and carbon yarn will be preferred, but other natural raw materials will be used too, yarns of chemical fibers from synthetic polymers and “smart” yarns. The aim of this research is to find the most optimal raw material and fabric construction and to make a commercially acceptable, qualitative, healthy, comfortable and smart technical fabric. Basic investigations will include: physical-mechanical, thermal, relaxation and elongation properties, dimensional stability, abrasion, effect of sun rays, inflammability, air permeability, water repellency, degradation and the investigation of these properties depending on fabric application. The scope of investigation will include technical fabrics intended for use in civil engineering, transportation and household (3D fabrics for composites, fabrics for seat covers, furnishing fabrics etc.) on which high requirements are set, such as: safety, resistance, comfort and aesthetics. Technical fabrics for industrial purposes such as filter fabrics and fabrics for composites which are of great importance for better utilization and productivity, and still more important in terms of ecological protection of environment, will be investigated. Healthy fabrics in medical terms from natural raw, and generally fabrics with various properties and applications subjected to additional treatments according to health standards. Part of the project will be directed at the investigation and revival of Croatian eco and ethno heritage, including

Research register

101

IJCST 19,6

102

the manufacture of tapestry, blankets and mats interwoven with art and skill of weaving, using domestic raw materials. The aim of this research is that tapestry authenticity and originality of work of art represent a unique value. The significance of this project is to revive the processing of domestic wool and flax in parallel with the investigation of new constructions and forms of glass technical fabrics, and new materials processed by new technologies. Several technical fabrics replicated in this project will serve as an encouragement for processing domestic wool and flax in smaller batches in karts regions of Croatia.

Project aims and objectives .

.

.

To design and manufacture technical fabrics from natural and new materials, and with their combination, with new methods and manufacturing procedures. To investigate qualitative properties of technical fabrics from natural textile raw materials and to promote the use of primarily domestic wool and linen. Within the basic aim it is necessary to define a numerical model of the manufacturing process and development of new composites so that chemical and physical processes affecting the quality and applicability of composites are investigated and analyzed experimentally. Thereby the influence of particular processes (manufacturing processes, temperatures, outside influences) on the changes of composite properties as well as the interrelationships will be determined.

.

The knowledge gained will be used to define a computer model for the construction of new types of technical fabrics and accordingly new composite materials.

.

To systematize utility and quality values of wool yarn from domestic sheep breeds and to investigate the possibility of the industrial process in blending with other raw materials. To optimize the production of applicable products of domestic raw materials and to promote the revival of the textile ethno heritage in Croatia.

.

.

To investigate the most cost-effective process and the most optimal shares of individual raw materials for the target product with new properties.

.

To include other raw materials with domestic materials with the aim of higherquality, more valuable and attractive products.

.

To manufacture healthy, high-quality, “smart”, comfortable, unique and commercially acceptable textile materials by integrating “smart” materials and new materials dyed with natural dyes.

Research deliverables Manufacture of technical fabrics from different composites with improved properties such as: more healthy (natural fibers), more comfortable (better thermal properties), and more attractive (uneven surface structure made by weaving various densities, fineness, colors and raw materials with different weaving techniques and different finishing treatments). It may be expected that the results obtained will make a

considerable contribution to further development of manufacturing technical fabrics and composites based on them, and that their application range will be expanded. Manufacture of medical fabrics based on natural raw materials and new composites which will be used as part of orthopedic and surgical aids that will dispose of improved properties such as: strength, thermal properties, liquid absorption, elasticity, stability and other properties. Manufacture of tapestries, blankets and mats with natural and new materials dyed with natural dyes whereby modern, high-quality and unique products can be produced. Moreover, by mastering these skills the possibility of a quality restoration of the textile ethno heritage will be provided. By applying the results obtained in various economic branches the development of new construction materials as a substitution for classic materials will be possible which will make a direct contribution environmental protection and entire ecological development of the country. By realizing such results the project will make a further contribution of the development of science in the field of developing new materials which according to long-term strategic directions of research in Croatia. They emphasize the need for the investigation of new materials, constructions and manufacturing processes. At the same time, the project is on the track of short-term strategic directions of scientific researches which direct investigations at natural, glass and organic-inorganic hybrids, making intelligent materials and polymer research. Publications Kovacˇevic´, S.; Schwarz, I. (2007), “Hand weaving – tradition of the future”, 7th Annual Textile Conference by Autex: From Emerging Innovations to Global Business, 26.-28.06.2007., Tampere, Finland. Schwarz, I,; Flincˇec Grgac, S.; Kovacˇevic´, S.; Katovic´, D. & Bischof Vukusˇic´, S. (2007) “The efect of drying methods on sized yarn characteristics”, The 18th International DAAAM symposium - Intelligent Manufacturing & Automation: Focus on Creativity, Responsibility, and Ethics of Engineers, 24-27th October 2007, Zadar, Croatia / editor B. Katalinic. Vienna: DAAAM International, 2007. (in press). Ujevic´, D.; Kovacˇevic´, S,; Schwarz, I.; Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, B. (2007), “Novi visˇeslojni tekstilni plosˇni proizvodi”, 6th International Scientific Conference on Production Engineering: Development and modernization of production, October 24th - 26th 2007. / edited by: I.Karabegovic, V. Dolecek, M. Jurkovic, RIM 2007. (in press). Kovacˇevic´, S.; Ujevic´, D.; Schwarz, I.; Brlobasˇic´ Sˇajatovic´, B.; Brnada, S. (2007), “Analysis of Motor Vehicle Fabrics” // Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2007 (in press).

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovic´a 30, HR-10000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 37 12 552; Fax: +385 1 37 12 599; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Assist. Prof. Zˇeljko Sˇomodi, Ph.D. Research Staff: Assist. Prof. Ana Kunsˇtek, Ph.D.; Slavica Bogovic´, M.Sc.; Anica Hursa, M.Sc.; Igor Petrunic´, M.Sc.; Assist. Prof. Simona Jevsˇnik, Ph.D.; Daniela Zavec-Pavlinic´, Ph.D.

Research register

103

IJCST 19,6

Computational Modelling in Engineering Analysis of Textiles and Garment Other Partners: Academic

Industrial Kamensko d.d., Zagreb

104

University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engineering, Maribor, Slovenia Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2011 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sports, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Clothing technology, Numerical methods, Optimisation, Reinforcements on clothing The intention of this project is to give a contribution to advanced application of the methods of engineering analysis in the field of textiles and garment. This goal will be achieved by introduction, adaptation, elaboration and application of up-todate computational methods in the analyses of problems relevant for the field of textile and clothing engineering. Considering the existing experience and an overview of questions and problems actual for the engineering science in the field, the research is to be undertaken in a number of areas, such as: optimal design of structural reinforcements in garment based on the finite element analysis; three parameter model of tensile nonlinearity of textiles; computational evaluation of post-buckling stable state in prediction and simulation of fabric drape; general numerical solution of thin plate bending with application to optimal grip geometry in automated work piece manipulation. Depending on the timing and realization of these researches, there is a possibility of opening further research areas from the field of computational modelling in mechanics of textiles and garment, including the spatial modelling and design of clothing items. The methods of research to be applied primarily consist of derivation and elaboration of numerical models suitable for application in the problems under consideration, and the development and application of computer programmes based on these models. At the same time, the plan is to acquire and apply some of the existing software applicable in the problems to be considered, as well as to prepare and conduct experimental verification of results obtained by computations.

Project aims and objectives Aim and scope of the proposed research is to give a contribution in the improvement of the level of engineering and technological know-how in the field of textile and garment. The research is expected to result in computer programmes or engineering data collected in tables, diagrams etc. that will be useful for the problem solution in the area of expertise covered by the research. The knowledge and methods developed by the research will be on offer for the interested subjects, from Croatia or elsewhere, primarily from the branch of textiles and garment. It can also be expected that after some time the collected knowledge and methods will be included in the teaching process at the Faculty of Textile Technology, primarily as parts of the subjects at the doctoral or diploma levels.

Research deliverables The principal user of the results will be Faculty of Textile Technology, as the institution for production and transfer of knowledge in the field of textile and garment. Further users will be the firms, institutions and individuals from among the designers and manufacturers of textile and garment, who already have the co-operation with the faculty, or shall have that co-operation in the future. The results and findings of the research shall be offered to these subjects by means of the Centre for development and transfer of textile and clothing technology and fashion design, as a unit in the structure of the faculty. The specific applications are expected in the expert analyses related to engineering in preparation of production processes in which the problems from the field of research appear. Publications Hursa, Anica; Rogale, Dubravko; Sˇomodi, Zˇeljko (2006), “Application of Numerical Methods in the Textile and Clothing Technology”, Tekstil, Vol. 55 (2006) No. 12, 613-623. Akrap-Kotevski, Visˇnja; Kunsˇtek, Ana (2007), “Writing Ability after Brain Damage”, Proceedings of 3rd International Ergonomics Conference, Ergonomics 2007, Mijovic´, Budimir (Ed.), Zagreb, Croatian Society of Ergonomics, 2007, 279-285. Sˇomodi, Zˇeljko; Hursa, Anica; Rolich, Tomislav; Rogale, Dubravko (2007), “Numerical analysis and optimisation of mechanical reinforcement on clothing”, Book of Proceedings of the 1st Meeting of Croatian Society of Mechanics, Cˇanadija, Marko (Ed.), Rijeka, Croatian Society of Mechanics, 2007, 173-178. Sˇomodi, Zˇeljko; Hursa, Anica; Rogale, Dubravko (2007), “A minimisation algorithm with application to optimal design of reinforcements in textiles and garments”, Internationl Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 19 (2007) No. 3/4, 159-166.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology, Prilaz baruna Filipovica 30, 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: +385 1 37 12 577; Fax: +385 1 37 12 533; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Prof. Zenun Skenderi, Ph.D. Research Staff: Prof. Miroslav Srdjak, Ph.D.; Prof. Momir Nikolic´, Ph.D.; Prof. Alka Mihelic´-Bogdanic´, Ph.D.; Bozˇo Tomic´, M.Sc.; Vesna Marija Potocˇic´ Matkovic´, M.Sc.; Ivana Salopek, M.Sc.; Dragana Kopitar, B.Sc.

Multifunctional technical nonwoven and knitted textiles, composites and yarns Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

Cˇateks d.d. Cˇakovec, Croatia, Regeneracija non-woven and carpets j.s.c., Zabok, Croatia Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 01c2010 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sport, Republic of Croatia

None

Research register

105

IJCST 19,6

106

Keywords: Yarns, Knitted and nonwoven fabrics, Structures, Properties, Thermal and vater-vapour resistance properties Further dislocation of the textile production from deveoped countries into Asia is a basic characteristic for the world textile industry today. In the field of technical textiles profound resistance is felt against relocation. An increase in the production of technical textiles is recorded due to a permanent expansion of the application range. It is used in: transportation, industry, medicine, hygiene, household, garment industry, agriculture, fishing trade, civil engineering, sport, safety, ecology etc. Nonwovens make the most significant contribution to the development of technical textiles. Over last decades the technology of nonwovens production has experienced a rapid development, and the production of late years has registered an annual increase of approx. 10 per cent. A significant application range for technical textiles or geotextiles is civil engineering, in particular road building. In addition to woven, knitted and similar structures, nonwovens play a predominant role with a share of approx. 75 per cent in 2005. The most important functions of geotextiles are: separation of weak soil, reinforcement of soil or elements of building structures, filtration and drainage. Geotextile properties are: stability, uniform structure, small thickness, high strength and stretching, porosity, small surface mass and water permeability. Various applications require a more or less marked particular structure and characteristic. The first part of the project will deal with various structures and properties of technical textiles based on nonwoven and knitted structures, in particular on geotextiles. Moreover, manufacturing technologies of technical textiles and knitted materials as well as their controlling parameters will be discussed. Conventional technologies such as: spinning, weaving, knitting and clothing technology will probably not withstand the competitiveness coming from Asia. Besides, relocation of the manufacture of man-made fibres into the Far East is taking place. It is undoubtedly the case that only those disposing of raw materials and enough knowledge to produce and sell high-quality products will have the chances of survival on the market. The investigation of possibilities of manufacturing from coarser sorts of wool which have similar fineness as domestic wool and the investigation of their possible use for products such as carpets and several articles of clothing will be within the scope of this project. The limit of fibre spinnability, typical stress-strain curves, yarn behavior in cyclic examinations of elongation properties, surface friction and yarn hairiness.

Project aims and objectives There are two dominant reasons why the field of technical textiles is dealt with in the project: . Intensive development of technical textiles because of an increase in the application (technical textiles on average of approx. 5.5 per cent, nonwoven fabric approx. 10 per cent). . Resistance to the relocation of the manufacture of technical textiles to the Far East. As a result the manufacture of technical textiles (quantity) in the developed countries accounts for more than 40 per cent of the total production of textiles. The state of the Croatian textile industry should be noted where the classic textile industry has

almost vanished. Two companies Regeneracija and Cˇateks manufacture technical textiles which have their markets. Regeneracija and Cˇateks confirmed their participation in the project. Moreover, the use of domestic wool for various products of higher value is a chalange and obligation. However, today domestic wool is sold as a raw material, and in some regions it is not bought off which is an ecological problem. Based on the above mentioned facts, it is reasonable to deal with the subject matter of technical textiles and yarns and products respectively, such as carpets within the scope of the project. In this way production of higher-quality products is promoted which is the purpose of this investigation. The aims of the investigation are as follows: .

Definition of the interdependence, process parameters and physical-mechanical as wel as other relevant properties.

.

technical nonwoven textile. technical textile based on nonwoven fabric coated with polyurethane (PUR).

. .

technical textile based on knitted fabric from PET and PA coated with polyurethane (PUR) and other technical textiles based on knitted fabric.

.

Definition of the interdependence of raw materials, process parameters and physical-mechanical yarn properties, primarily wool, and the behavior of carpets in dynamic investigations (new instrument required for the project).

.

It will be attempted in case of interest of Regeneracija or other interested parties to investigate thermal properties of wool insulation materials.

Research deliverables Obtaining the new understandings of: . .

.

.

.

.

Thermal and vapor resistance properties of the knitted and nonwoven fabrics. Spun yarns, primarily coarser wool yarns: procedures of manufacturing and defined the controlling parameters of the processes. Structure and properties of the coarser, industrially manufactured wool yarns should be emphasized that can be similar to the yarn spun from domestic wool as far as their properties. Influence of fibres parameteres (finenness, length,.) on limit of spinnability and spun yarn properties. Possibilities of manufacturing carpets from coarser wool fibres will be investigate as well as compressibility of carpets on the new instrument purchased from funds of the project. Processes of manufacturing: technical nonwoven fabrics intended for use in civil engineering, technical nonwoven fabric coated with polyurethane (PUR), technical textiles based on knitted fabric coated with polyurethane (PUR), as well as their structures and properties.

Publications Salopek, Ivana; Skenderi, Zenun; Srdjak, Miroslav (2007), “Stoffgriff - ein Aspekt des Tragekomforts von Strickware”, Melliand Textilberichte. Vol. 88 (2007.); 426-428.

Research register

107

IJCST 19,6

108

Salopek, Ivana; Skenderi, Zenun (2007), “Thermophysiological comfort of knitted fabrics in moderate and hot environment“, Proceedings of the 3rd International Ergonomics Conference / Mijovic´, Budimir (ur.). Zagreb: Croatian Society of Ergonomics, 2007. 287-293. Potocˇic´ Matkovic´, Vesna Marija; Salopek, Ivana (2007), “Computer Assisted Study of Knitted Structures”, Proceedings Vol. IV. CE Computers in Education. 2007. 99-102. Kopitar, Dragana; Skenderi, Zenun (2006), “Prsteni i trkacˇi - glavni elementi prstenaste predilice”, Tekstil, Vol. 55 (2006); 543-501.

Zagreb, Croatia Faculty of Textile Technology University of Zagreb, Prilaz baruna Filipovic´a 30, HR - 10 000 Zagreb, Croatia, Tel: + 385 1 37 12 500; Fax: + 385 1 37 12 595; E-mail: [email protected] Principal Investigator(s): Assoc. Prof. Zlatko Vrljicak, Ph.D. Research Staff: Kresimir Hajdarovic, Ph.D.; Valent Strmecki, M.Sc.; Tomislav Koren, M.Sc.; Ivan Basnec, M.Sc.

Design and manufacture of nets for the protection of fruit and vegetables against hail Other Partners: Academic

Industrial

-

Tvornica mreza i ambalaze, Biograd n/m, Croatia Project start date: 1 January 2007 Project end date: 31 December 2009 Source of support: Ministry of Science, Education and Sport, Republic of Croatia Keywords: Fruit production, Nets, Hail, Viticulture, Plant material, Economic profit Approximately 7 per cent of Croatian fruit is present on the Croatian market. The production and sales of Croatian fruit can be quadrupled and sold at present prices on the Croatian market, but as first class fruit. Over the last ten years The Ministry of Finance received damage reports worth more than 100 million kuna which were caused by hail. Fruit, vegetables, plants, flowers, nursery-gardens, and animals, material resources: houses, agricultural machinery, automobiles and the like get damaged. Up to now rockets have been used to ensure hail protection of fruit and vegetables. On account of a rapid increase in the volume of air transport this technique is less used and is substituted by using protection nets. Several more developed and neighboring European countries have started using nets for the protection of fruit and vegetables against hail. Within the scope of this project systems of applying protection nets in European countries and their use in Croatia would be studied. The emphasis here would be on the safety of orchards, new plants or crops and how to pay compensation for damages by hail. Appropriate protection nets would be designed and manufactured for particular agricultural products and then installed on plantations. Net construction depends on the application so that protection nets of various widths, shapes, colors and structures with special emphasis on the raw material for the production of nets and for shadowing the area to be covered. Across Croatia nets would be offered to the registered fruit growers

for use. During the first year of the project a fruit grower would be offered 1000 m2 of nets without charge with the aim that he buys the same quantity (ratio 1:1) and that he should cover only one part of his plantation. By continuous monitoring orchards all changes under the nets would be analyzed and then compared to the results obtained outside the nets. Over the period of five years relevant conclusions about the use of nets for the protection of fruit and vegetables against hail can be made. It is to be emphasized that the nets, which protect agricultural products against hail, can protect against sun, birds, animals etc. By adequate use of the above mentioned nets it is to expect that yield per hectar will be increased as well as fruit quality. Up to now our fruit growers have collected less than 50 per cent of first class fruit, but using nets it can be expected to increase this limit over 80 per cent. In this way, when Croatia enters into the European Union, we can sell our quality fruits on our market and compete on international markets.

Project aims and objectives The purpose of the investigation is to provide assistance to fruit growers to protect their orchards, both trees and fruits against hail. The aim of the project is to design and make nets that will be helpful and commercially acceptable in the protection of fruits and vegetables against hail. Manufactured nets would be offered to fruit growers for use. During the duration of the project several types of nets for the protection of fruit and vegetables would be developed. The application aim of these protection nets is primarily to protect trees and fruits. In this way fruit growers would increase the quality of collected fruit and yield quantity per unit area. In the long term, when Croatia enters into the European Union, our fruit growers will be able to sell their quality fruits on the Croatian market and compete on the international markets. If we do not do it, the European fruit producers will sell their fruits on the Croatian market without competition. The Croatian fruit growers will not be able to enter into this market because of minor fruit quality. This action will prevent the breakthrough of export fruit on the Croatian market

Research deliverables he whole plan and protocol is mentioned in section 9.2. Therefore only basic characteristics are mentioned here. After 1st year more than 20000 m2 of nets will be installed on different fruit plantations across Croatia. We would collect data on necessary properties of nets for the application in a particular sector or for a particular orchard. Based on the gathered data we would design and make new nets with different physical-mechanical properties. We would come to basic data on the influence of sun beams and weathering on the changes in net characteristics. We would publish approximately five papers. During previous three years we would keep records of all important influences on the fruit quantity and quality. We should come to data on the influence of hail, sun, wind, thrash, birds, animals and the like on the fruit quality and quantity. We would publish a newsletter about the application of protection nets in the cultivation of fruit and vegetables. Publications Not available

Research register

109

Research index by institution

IJCST 19,6

110

Institution

Page

Budapest University of Technology and Economics

10-21

Dokuz Eylul University

41

Heriot-Watt University

22-37

Loughborough University

45-48

Manchester Metropolitan University

48-50

National Institute of Technology Jalandhar

42-44

National Institute for Textiles and Leather

10-13

Rapra Technology Ltd

69-71

Sci-Tex, Japan

56-57

Technical University of Lodz

44-45

Technological Education Institute of Piraeus

8

University of Bolton

9-10

University of Dundee

21-22

University of Huddersfield

37-41

University of Maribor

50-55

University of Nottingham

55-56

University of Patras

57-60

University of Pisa

60-69

University of Zagreb

71-109

Research index by country Country

Page

Croatia

71-109

Greece

8, 57-60

Hungary

13-21

India

42-44

Italy

60-69

Japan

56-57

Poland

44-45

Romania

10-13

Slovenia

50-55

Turkey

41

United Kingdom

9-10, 21-41, 45-50, 55-56, 69-71

Index by country

111

Research index by subject

IJCST 19,6

112

Anthropometrics, garment sizing

15, 16, 34, 35, 47, 78

velvet warp knitted woven

41 41 41

Fibre extrusion, weaving, yarn production

23

Heritage

101 40

Bio medical, antimicrobial agents, antimicrobial legislation clothing, embedded electronics, intelligent biomedical clothes IBC

29 99

Ceramic coating, sol gel process

91

Ink jet printing, colour measurement

Chemical modification

13

Medical textiles

Clothing, comfort, prediction engineering, textile materials health monitoring heat and mass transfer, clothing energy, wind fabric lockstitch machine formation, sewing thread, take up medical clothing protective clothing robotic sewing technology, garment modelling, reinforcement, optimisation Colour matching Design Distance learning Environmental protection, harmfull textiles, textile care, textile hygiene, toxicology and wastewaters antifungal activity renewable sources Fabrics, automotive seat knitted mechanics non-woven blanket powernet properties

65

50, 90 50 63 46 45 63, 65, 91 65, 84 57 103 57 37, 90, 96 8 81

99 69 30, 32 41 48, 105 50 42, 43, 105 24 86, 105

antimicrobial textiles antimicrobial finishing bandages bio-sensing compression therapy controlled delivery leg ulcers pressure garment, measurement, hypertrophic burn scars, powernet fabric

13, 29, 32, 74, 86, 94, 99 13 99 9 63 9 29 9 24

Modelling, 34, 55 14, 16 3D design, human body modelling, visual robot, clothing simulation, 3D drape tester 3D modelling, workplace, 75 work environment, VR CFD, CAE, protective fabric, 36 garment, modelling high performance knowledge propagation 56 unit cell analysis 55 Nanotechnology, 81, 65 25, 28, 29 electrospinning, polymers, nanotechnology, nanofibres, nano yarn, alignment, nanocomposite micro-channel, micro-porous, 29 membranes, controlled delivery, drug release

Objective evaluation, fabric mechanics

50, 57, 90

Smart textiles, 91 electroform, electroplate fibre, silver 21 intelligent garments 86 intelligent sick beds 86 intelligent textiles 90 interactive textiles, garments, 30 wireless smart technology protective textiles, digital printing, 32 medical textiles solar energy, thin films, 22 photovoltaics 71 Surface modification and finishing Technical textiles 32, 57, 86, 90, 99, 101, 108 barrier materials 60 composite materials, 16, 71 engineering materials

dust particle, pulse-jet filtration 43 fibres, fibrous structures, 57, 16 reinforcements, composites fruit production nets, anti-hail nets 108 high performance textiles 33, 96 13, 60, 71, multi-functional textiles, 91 chemical modification, microwave treatment of cellulosics powernet fabric 24 Technology transfer

11

Testing, multiaxial testing thermal properties, water-vapour resistance, fabric properties

16 86 105

Wireless communications

30, 63

Index by subject

113

IJCST 19,6

114

Research index by principal investigator Principal investigator Ambrus, G. Anand, S.C. Andrassy, M. Aspragathos, N. Bo¨di, B. Borsa, J. Brooks, R. Ceken, F. Christie, R.M. Clifford, M.J. De Rossi, D. Dermatas, E. Fotheringham, A. Frydrych, I. Gersˇak, J. Ghosh, S Grancaricˇ, A.M. Hala´sz, M. Hare, C. Havenith, G. Jones, I.A. Katovicˇ D. Keith, S. Kotsios, C. Kovacˇevic´, S. Lee, K. Long, A.C. MacIntyre, L Mather, R.R. Matsuo, T. Midha, V.K. Mijovic, B.

Page 14-16 9-10 96-99 57-60 14-16 13-14 55-56 41 32-33 55-56 60-69 57-60 23-24 44-45 50-55 42-43 71-75 14-16 69-71 45-48 55-56 84-86 21-22 8 101-103 33-35 55-56 24-25 22-23 56-57 42-43 75-78

Mukhopadhyay, A. Otieno, R. Parac-Osterman, A.

43-44 48-50 81-84

Pezelj, E. Pickering, S.J. Power, J. Primentas, A. Psarakis, E.

91-94 55-56 48-50 8 57-60

Rahnev, I. Rajendran, S. Rogale, D. Rudd, C.

40-45 9-10 86-89 55-56

Scotchford, C.A. Skenderi, Z. Soljacˇ ic´, I. Somlo´, J. Sˇomodi, Zˇ. Squires, P. Steffan, I. Stylios, G.K. Tama´s, P. Ujevicˇ, D Vas, L. Vassiliadis, S. Vrljicak, Z Vujasinovic, E. Vukusˇic´, S.B. Walker, G.S. Wardman, R.H. Warrior, N.A. Wilson, J.I.B. Woodget, H.

55-56 105-108 94-96 14-16 103-105 37-39 74-75 25-32, 33-37 14-16 78-81 16-21 8 108-109 90-91 99-100 55-56 32-33 55-56 22-23 39-41