Professional Cooking [7 ed.] 3175723993, 9780470197523, 9780470197530, 2009045858, 0470197528

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W AY N E

G I S S L E N

P R O F E S S I O N A L

COOK I NG S E V E N T H

E D I T I O N

PHOTOGRAPHY BY J. GERARD SMITH

JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC.

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Senior Acquisitions Editor Senior Developmental Editor Project Editor Editorial Assistant Editorial Assistant Production Editor Production Manager Marketing Manager Compostion & Text Design Senior Designer

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Mary J. Cassells Julie R. Kerr Michele Traeger James Metzger Jenni Lee Barbara Russiello Micheline Frederick Margaret Barrett Mauna Eichner, Lee Fukui Carole Anson

Cover Designer Cover & Interior Photography Sr. Page Layout Technician Graphics Supervisor Illustration Creation Graphics Processing & Imaging Composition Proj. Coordinator Executive Media Editor Media Consultant

This book was set in 9/12 Meta by Mauna Eichner and Lee Fukui and printed and bound by RR Donnelley & Sons Company. The cover was printed by RR Donnelley & Sons Company. This book is printed on acid free paper. Copyright © 2011, 2007, 2003, 1999 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. Published simultaneously in Canada. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc. 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, website www.copyright.com. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774, (201)748-6011, fax (201)748-6008, website http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. For general information on our other products and services, or technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at 800-762-2974, outside the United States at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For more information about Wiley products, visit our website at http://www.wiley.com. Evaluation copies are provided to qualified academics and professionals for review purposes only, for use in their courses during the next academic year. These copies are licensed and may not be sold or transferred to a third party. Upon completion of the review period, please return the evaluation copy to Wiley. Return instructions and a free of charge return shipping label are available at www.wiley.com/go/returnlabel. Outside of the United States, please contact your local representative. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data: Gisslen, Wayne, 1946Professional cooking / Wayne Gisslen ; photography by J. Gerard Smith. -- 7th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-470-19752-3 (Higher Education Cloth) -- ISBN 978-0-470-19753-0 (Trade Cloth) 1. Quantity cookery. 2. Food service. I. Title. TX820.G54 2009 641.5'7--dc22 2009045858 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Howard Grossman J. Gerard Smith Beth Brooks Clint Lahnen Cheryl Grubbs Brent Savage Kristie Rees Tom Kulesa Lydia Cheng

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This book is dedicated to the many Chef-Instructors preparing a new generation of culinary professionals.

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FOOD SERVICE INDUSTRY SANITATION AND SAFETY TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT BASIC PRINCIPLES OF FOOD SCI ENCE MENUS RECIPES COST MANAGEMENT NUTRITION MISE EN PLACE STOCKS AND SAUCES SOUPS UNDER STANDING MEATS COOKING MEATS AND GAME UNDERSTANDING POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS COOKING POUL TRY AND GAME BIRDS UNDERSTANDING FISH AND SHELLFISH COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH UNDERSTAND

Contents Recipe Contents ix

Chapter 3

Tools and Equipment

41

Preface xxii Acknowledgments xxvi About CulinarE-Companion™ xxix About WileyPLUS xxx

Chapter 1

The Food-Service Industry

1

A History of Modern Food Service 2 The Organization of Modern Kitchens 7 Standards of Professionalism 11

Introduction to Quantity Food Equipment 42 Cooking Equipment 43 Processing Equipment 49 Holding and Storage Equipment 53 Pots, Pans, and Containers 54 Measuring Devices 56 Knives, Hand Tools, and Small Equipment 57

Chapter 4

Basic Principles of Cooking and Food Science

Heat and Food

64

What Is Heat? 64 Heat Transfer 66 Heat Management 67

Cooking Methods

Chapter 2

Sanitation and Safety

Sanitation

16

Food Hazards 16 Personal Hygiene 25 Food Storage 26 Food Handling and Preparation 28 Cleaning and Sanitizing Equipment 30 Rodent and Insect control 32 Setting up a System for Food Safety 33

Safety

35

The Safe Workplace 36 Preventing Cuts 36 Preventing Burns 37 Preventing and Dealing with Fires 37 Preventing Injuries from Machines and Equipment 38 Preventing Falls 38 Preventing Strains and Injuries from Lifting 39 iv

15

70

Moist-Heat Methods 70 Dry-Heat Methods 72 Dry-Heat Methods Using Fat 74 Microwave Cooking 76 Cooking Sous Vide 77 Molecular Gastronomy 79 Summary of Cooking Terms 81

Building Flavor

82

Building Flavor Profiles 82 Seasoning and Flavoring Ingredients 84 Using Herbs and Spices 89

63

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CONTENTS

SCI DER OUL AND

Clear Soups

v

227

Broths 227 Consommé 228 Vegetable Soups 232 Other Clear Soups 235

Thick Soups

238

Cream Soups 238 Purée Soups 246 Bisques 253 Chowders 254

Chapter 5

Menus, Recipes, and Cost Management

Specialty Soups and National Soups

Chapter 10 Understanding Meats and Game

Menu Forms and Functions 94 Building the Menu 96 The Written Recipe 102 Measurement 105 Converting Recipes 109 Food Cost Calculations 114 Controlling Food Costs 120

Composition, Structure, and Basic Quality Factors

Nutrition

125

Nutrients 126 The Balanced Diet 130 Cooking Healthful Meals 133

Chapter 7

Mise en Place

137

Planning and Organizing Production 138 Using the Knife 141 Preliminary Cooking and Flavoring 149 Preparation for Frying 152 Handling Convenience Foods 154

276

280

Available Forms: Carcasses, Partial Carcasses, Primals, and Fabricated Cuts 280 Bone Structure 281 Beef, Lamb, Veal, and Pork Cuts 285 Selecting Meats for Your Operation 288 Fabricating Meats 289

Cooking and Handling Meats

293

Tenderness and Appropriate Cooking Methods 293 Doneness 297 Cooking Variety Meats 300 Game and Specialty Meats 303 Storage of Meats 306

Chapter 11 Cooking Meats and Game Chapter 8 Stocks

Stocks and Sauces

157

158

Ingredients 158 Procedures 162 Reductions and Glazes 169 Convenience Bases 170

Sauces

171

Understanding Sauces 171 Roux 172 Other Thickening Agents 176 Finishing Techniques 177 Sauce Families 179 Production 182

Chapter 9

Soups

Understanding Soups

223 224

Classifications of Soups 224 Service of Soups 225

275

Composition 276 Structure 277 Inspection and Grading 278 Aging 278

Understanding the Basic Cuts

Chapter 6

257

93

Roasting and Baking 310 Broiling, Grilling, and Pan-Broiling 325 Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Griddling 333 Simmering 343 Braising 352

309

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CONTENTS

Chapter 12 Understanding Poultry and Game Birds

371

Chapter 15 Cooking Fish and Shellfish Baking 472 Broiling and Grilling 478 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 486 Deep-Frying 494 Poaching and Simmering 499 Steaming and Mixed Cooking Techniques 509 Seafood Served Raw 517

Composition and Structure 372 Inspection and Grading 373 Classification and Market Forms 374 Handling and Storage 378 Doneness 378 Trussing Methods 379 Cutting Up Chicken 380

Chapter 16 Understanding Vegetables Chapter 13 Cooking Poultry and Game Birds

Controlling Quality Changes During Cooking 524 Controlling Texture Changes 524 Controlling Flavor Changes 525 Controlling Color Changes 526 Controlling Nutrient Losses 528 General Rules of Vegetable Cookery 529 Standards of Quality in Cooked Vegetables 529

Handling Vegetables

Fin Fish

442

Composition and Structure 442 Special Problems in Cooking Fish 442 Cutting Fish 443 Varieties and Characteristics 446 Handling and Storage 454

Shellfish

456

Mollusks 456 Cephalopods 461 Crustaceans 462 Miscellaneous Seafood 469

523

385

Roasting and Baking 386 Broiling and Grilling 399 Sautéing, Pan-Frying, and Deep-Frying 406 Simmering and Poaching 419 Braising 427 Dressings and Stuffings 438

Chapter 14 Understanding Fish and Shellfish

471

441

530

Fresh Vegetables 530 Processed Vegetables 553 Production and Holding Problems in Quantity Cooking 556 Storage 557

Chapter 17 Cooking Vegetables

561

Boiling and Steaming 562 Sautéing and Pan-Frying 576 Braising 582 Baking 588 Broiling and Grilling 596 Deep-Frying 598

Chapter 18 Potatoes Understanding Potatoes

603 604

Cooking Potatoes 607

Chapter 19 Legumes, Grains, Pasta, and Other Starches

629

Dried Legumes 630 Grains 639 Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings 657

Chapter 20 Cooking for Vegetarian Diets Understanding Vegetarian Diets 682 Menus for Vegetarian Diets 684

681

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Chapter 21 Salad Dressings and Salads Salad Dressings

vi i

699

700

Ingredients 700 Emulsions in Salad Dressings 701 Oil-and-Vinegar Dressings 702 Emulsified Dressings 705 Other Dressings 708

Salads

710

Types of Salads 710 Ingredients 712 Arrangement and Presentation 721 Recipes and Techniques 723

Chapter 22 Sandwiches

761

Breads 762 Spreads 763 Fillings 763 Types of Sandwiches 765 Making Sandwiches 766

Chapter 25 Dairy and Beverages Dairy Products

Chapter 23 Hors d’Oeuvres

781

Serving Hors d’Oeuvres 782 Canapés 782 Cocktails 786 Relishes 786 Dips 787 Miscellaneous Hors d’Oeuvres 790

834

Milk and Cream 834 Butter 836 Cheese 837

Coffee and Tea

846

Coffee 846 Tea 849

Chapter 26 Sausages and Cured Foods

Chapter 24 Breakfast Preparation Eggs

833

811

853

Curing and Smoking 854 Sausages 859

812

Understanding Eggs 812 Cooking Eggs 816

Breakfast Breads, Cereals, and Meats Pancakes and Waffles 826 French Toast 828 Cereals 830 Breakfast Meats 830

Chapter 27 Pâtés, Terrines, and Other Cold Foods

875

826 The Handling and Service of Cold Dishes 876 Aspic and Chaud-Froid 877 Special Forcemeat Dishes 882 Terrines Based on Mousselines 891 Terrines and Other Molds with Gelatin 893 Foie Gras, Liver Terrines, and Rillettes 899

Chapter 28 Food Presentation and Garnish Hot Food Presentation

906

Fundamentals of Plating 906 Garnish 910

Cold Food Presentation and Buffet Service 912 Buffet Arrangement and Appearance Cold Platter Presentation 915 Hot Foods for Buffets 917

913

905

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CONTENTS

Chapter 29 Bakeshop Production: Basic Principles and Ingredients

919

Chapter 34 Pies and Pastries Pies

Basic Principles of Baking

Pastries, Meringues, and Fruit Desserts

925

Chapter 35 Creams, Custards, Puddings, Frozen Desserts, and Sauces

Chapter 30 Yeast Products

937

Understanding Yeast Products

938

Yeast Product Types 938 Mixing Methods 938 Steps in Yeast Dough Production 939

Dough Formulas and Techniques

944

Bread and Roll Formulas 944 Rolled-In Doughs: Danish Pastry and Croissants 948 Makeup Techniques 952

Chapter 31 Quick Breads

Appendix 1

Metric Conversion Factors

1054

Appendix 2

Standard Can Sizes

1054

Appendix 3

Approximate Weight-Volume Equivalents of Dry Foods

1055

Kitchen Math Exercises: Metric Versions

1056

Eggs and Safety

1058

Appendix 4

Chapter 32 Cakes and Icings

967

Appendix 5

968

Bibliography 1059

Basic Mixing Methods 968 Cake Formula Types 971 Scaling and Panning 972 Baking and Cooling 974 Altitude Adjustments 975

Glossary and Cooking Vocabulary 1061 Subject Index 1077 Recipe Index 1081

976

Creaming Method 976 Two-Stage Method 978 Foaming Methods 979

Icings: Production and Application

981

Producing and Handling Basic Types 981 Assembling and Icing Cakes 986

Chapter 33 Cookies Cookie Characteristics and Their Causes 992 Mixing Methods 993 Types and Makeup Methods 994 Panning, Baking, and Cooling 996

991

1033

Sugar Cooking 1034 Basic Custards and Creams 1035 Puddings 1039 Bavarians, Chiffons, Mousses, and Soufflés 1041 Frozen Desserts 1049 Desert Sauces 1051

959

Mixing and Production Methods 960 Formulas 962

Cake Formulas

1020

Puff Pastry 1020 Éclair Paste 1024 Meringues 1026 Fruit Desserts 1028

Flours, Meals, and Starches 925 Fats 927 Sugars 928 Liquids 930 Eggs 931 Leavening Agents 932 Salt, Flavorings, and Spices 933

Understanding Cake Making

1006

Pie Doughs 1006 Assembly and Baking 1010 Fillings 1012

920

Formulas and Measurement 920 Mixing and Gluten Development 923 The Baking Process 924 Staling 925

Ingredients

1005

ING VEG DAI TIO

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ING VEGETABLES COOKING VEGETABLES POTATOES LEGUMES GRAINS PASTA OTHER STARCHES COOKING FOR VEGETARIAN DIETS SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS SANDWICHES HORS D’OERVES BREAKFAST PREPARATION DAIRY AND BEVERAGES SAUSAGES AND CURED FOODS PATES TERRINES AND COLD FOODS FOOD PRESENTA TION AND GARNISH BAKESHOP PRODUCTION YEAST PRODUCTS QUICK BREADS CAKES AND ICINGS COOKIES

Recipe Contents = core recipes = international recipes = low in fat recipes = vegetarian recipes

Chapter 8

Venetian 186 Horseradish 186

Brown Sauce or Espagnole

Stocks and Sauces

Basic White Stock (Beef or Veal)

157

Fond Lié or Jus Lié II Demi-Glace 189 Small Sauces 189

164

Chicken Stock 164 White Lamb Stock, Turkey Stock, Ham Stock 164

Basic Brown Stock

168

Vegetarian Dashi 169

Béchamel Sauce

183

Light Béchamel 183 Heavy Béchamel 183

Small Sauces

184

Cream Sauce 184 Mornay Sauce 184 Mornay Sauce for Glazing or Gratinéeing 184 Cheddar Cheese Sauce 184 Mustard Sauce 184 Soubise Sauce 184 Tomatoed Soubise Sauce 184 Nantua Sauce 184

Velouté Sauce (Veal, Chicken, or Fish) White Wine Sauce 185 Suprême Sauce 185 Allemande Sauce 186 Small Sauces 186 Poulette 186 Aurora 186 Hungarian 186 Ivory or Albufera 186 Curry 186 Mushroom 186 Bercy 186 Herb 186 Normandy 186 Anchovy 186 Shrimp 186

188

Bordelaise 189 Marchand de Vin (Wine Merchant) 189 Robert 189 Charcutière 189 Chasseur 189 Diable (Deviled) 189 Madeira 189 Périgueux 189 Poîvrade 189 Port Wine 189 Italian Sauce 189 Mushroom 189 Bercy 189 Piquante 189 Lyonnaise 189 Bigarade 189

166

Brown Lamb Stock, Game Stock 166

Fish Stock 167 Fish Fumet 167 Vegetable Stock Dashi 169

187

Jus de Veau Lié I 187 Jus de Volaille Lié, Jus d’Agneau Lié 187 Jus de Canard Lié, or Jus de Gibier Lié 187

Tomato Sauce I

190

Tomato Sauce II (Vegetarian) 190 Tomato Sauce III 190

Small Sauces 184

191

Portugaise (Portuguese) 191 Spanish 191 Creole 191

Fresh Tomato Coulis with Garlic Maître d’Hôtel Butter 194

191

Anchovy Butter 194 Garlic Butter 194 Escargot (Snail) Butter 194 Shrimp Butter 194 Mustard Butter 194 Herb Butter 194 Scallion or Shallot Butter 194 Curry Butter 194

Beurre Blanc

194

Herbed Butter Sauce 194 Beurre Rouge for Fish 194 Beurre Rouge (Red Butter Sauce) 194

ix

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RECIPE CONTENTS

Hollandaise Sauce I Hollandaise Sauce II Small Sauces 197

Cinnamon Oil, Cumin Oil, Curry Oil, Ginger Oil, or Paprika Oil 216 Basil Oil, Parsley Oil, Chervil Oil, or Cilantro Oil 216

196 197

Tartar Sauce

Maltaise 197 Mousseline 197

Béarnaise Sauce Small Sauces 198

Aïoli I 217 Horseradish Sauce (Sauce Raifort) Cocktail Sauce 217 Mignonette Sauce 218 Fig Compote 218 Cold Snap Pea Coulis 219 Basil Sauce 219 Parmesan Foam 220 Raspberry Beads 220

197

Foyot 198 Choron 198

Mushroom Jus 203 Sweet Corn and Chile Purée Bell Pepper Coulis 204

203

Bell Pepper and Tomato Coulis 204

White Bean Purée 204 Sour Cream Sauce 204 Cream Sauce for Fish 205

Chapter 9

Cream Sauce for Poultry and Meat 205 Herbed Cream Sauce 205

Chipotle Cream Sauce

Beef Broth Consommé

205

Salsa Verde Cocida

206

Salsa Roja 206 Tomato Broth for Chiles Rellenos 206

Salsa Cruda 206 Ancho Sauce 207 Chimichurri Sauce 207 Vegetable Caper Relish 208 Tomato Raisin Chutney 208 Pineapple Chutney 209 Cucumber Raita 209 Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce) Thai Red Curry Sauce 210 210

Red Curry Paste 211 Green Curry Paste 211 Indonesian Peanut Sauce 211 Asian Sweet-and-Sour Sauce 212 Yakitori Sauce 212 Ponzu Sauce 212 Sesame Miso Sauce 213 Port Wine Sauce 213 Applesauce 213 Cumberland Sauce 214 Barbecue Sauce 214 Chile Barbecue Sauce 215 Soy Barbecue Sauce 215 Fruit Salsa 215 Shallot Oil 216 Ginger Oil, Horseradish Oil, or Garlic Oil 216 Lemon or Orange Oil 216 Rosemary Oil, Sage Oil, Thyme Oil, or Oregano Oil 216

217

Soups

223

227 230

Double Consommé 230 Chicken Consommé 231 Cold Jellied Consommé 231 Consommé Madrilène 231 Essence of Celery Consommé 231 Consommé au Porto 231 Consommé au Sherry 231 Garnished Consommés Consommé Brunoise 231 Consommé Julienne 231 Consommé Printanière 231 Consommé Paysanne 231 Consommé with Pearl Tapioca 231 Consommé Vermicelli 231

Herb Cream Sauce 205

Thai Green Curry Sauce

216

Rémoulade Sauce 216

210

Consommé Fettucine

231

Consommé Fettuccine with Parmesan and Basil

Clear Vegetable Soup

231

233

Vegetable Rice Soup 233 Chicken Vegetable Rice Soup 233 Vegetable Beef Soup 233 Vegetable Beef Barley Soup 233

Piquant Vegetable Soup with Chickpeas

234

Piquant Vegetable Soup with Roasted Garlic 234

Mushroom Barley Soup Chicken Noodle Soup

234 235

Beef Noodle Soup 235 Chicken or Beef Noodle Soup with Vegetables 235

Brunswick Soup 235 Chicken Tomato Bouillon with Pesto

236

Chicken Tomato Bouillon with Rice 236 Cold Chicken Tomato Bouillon 236

Oxtail Soup 237 Cream of Celery Soup (Cream Soup Method 1) Cream of Asparagus 240 Cream of Broccoli 240 Cream of Carrot 240 Cream of Cauliflower 240 Cream of Corn 240

240

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RECIPE CONTENTS

Cream of Cucumber 240 Cream of Mushroom 240 Cream of Pea 240 Cream of Spinach 240 Cream of Watercress 240 Cream of Chicken 240 Cold Cream Soups 240

French Onion Soup Gratinée Avgolemono 258 Borscht 258 Cold Borscht 258

Gulyas 259 Southwestern Corn and Tomato Soup

Cream of Mushroom Soup (Cream Soup Method 2) 241 Cream of Asparagus 241 Cream of Broccoli 241 Cream of Carrot 241 Cream of Cauliflower 241 Cream of Celery 241 Cream of Corn 241 Cream of Cucumber 241 Cream of Green Pea 241 Cream of Spinach 241 Cream of Watercress 241 Cream of Chicken 241

Japanese Clear Soup with Shrimp Miso Soup

272

Cantaloupe Soup 272

Chapter 11 Cooking Meats and Game Roast Rib of Beef au Jus

309

313

Roast Rib-Eye Roll, Top Round, Sirloin, or Strip Loin 313 Roast Beef with Gravy 313

Purée of Green Pea Soup with Mint Cream Purée of Spring Vegetable Soup 249 Butternut Squash Soup with Caramelized Apples 250 Navy Bean Soup 250 Spicy Black Bean Soup 251 Chilled Leek and Potato Soup with Shrimp and Fennel Salad 252 Vichyssoise 252

249

Roast Beef Gravy

314

Jus Lié 314

Roast Loin of Pork with Sage and Apples

315

Roast Loin or Rack of Veal with Sage and Apples 315

Roast Stuffed Shoulder of Lamb

316

Roast Boneless Shoulder of Lamb 316 Roast Leg of Lamb 316 Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangère 316

Roast Rack of Lamb

318

Rack of Lamb aux Primeurs (with Spring Vegetables) 318 Rack of Lamb Persillé 318 Persillade 318

253

Lobster Bisque 253

254

Corn Chowder 254

Manhattan Clam Chowder 256 New England Fish Chowder 256

Chinese Hot and Sour Soup 262 Chilled Tomato and Basil Soup 263 Ecuadorian Quinoa and Peanut Soup 263 Tortilla Soup 264 Mulligatawny Soup 265 Summer Vegetable and Smoked Tomato Soup 266 Red Lentil and Apricot Soup 266 Pho Bo (Vietnamese Beef and Rice Noodle Soup) 267 Caldo Verde 268 Zuppa di Ceci e Riso 268 Minestrone 269 Mediterranean Tomato and Bean Soup 270 Scotch Broth 270 Gazpacho 271 Chilled Tomato Soup with Moroccan Spices 272 Honeydew Melon Soup

248

Corn and Crab Chowder with Basil New England Clam Chowder 256

261

261

Chilled Spiced Tomato Yogurt Soup 272

Purée of White Bean Soup 248 Purée of Yellow Split Pea Soup 248 Purée of Lentil Soup 248 Purée of Kidney Bean Soup 248 Purée of Black Bean Soup 248 Purée Mongole 248 Nonpuréed Bean Soups 248

Potato Chowder

259

Chicken and Andouille Gumbo 260

Purée of Cauliflower Soup (Purée Dubarry) 247 Purée of Celery or Celery Root Soup 247 Purée of Jerusalem Artichoke Soup 247 Purée of Potato Soup (Potage Parmentier) 247 Purée of Potato and Leek Soup 247 Purée of Turnip Soup 247 Purée of Watercress Soup 247 Purée of Mixed Vegetable Soup 247 Potage Solferino 247

Shrimp Bisque

259

Corn, Zucchini, and Tomato Soup 259

Vegetarian Corn Chili Soup Seafood Gumbo 260

Cream of Broccoli Soup (Cream Soup Method 3) 242 Cream of Tomato Soup 243 Wild Rice and Mushroom Soup 244 Wisconsin Cheddar and Broccoli Soup 245 Purée of Carrot Soup (Potage Crècy) 247

Purée of Split Pea Soup

257

255

Roast Brined Pork Loin with Date and Gorgonzola Stuffing 319 Smoke-Roasted Pork Shoulder 320 Smoke-Roasted Shoulder of Boar 320

Spice Rub I 320 Spice Rub II 320

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RECIPE CONTENTS

Barbecued Spareribs 321 Roast Pork Tenderloin with Kalbi Marinade 321 Baked Pork Chops with Prune Stuffing 322 Glazed Ham with Cider Sauce 322 Ham with Brown Cider Sauce 322 Fruit-Glazed Ham 322

Home-Style Meatloaf

323

Costolette alla Milanese (Cutlets Milan-Style)

Loin or Rack of Venison Grand Veneur

324

New England Boiled Dinner Blanquette of Veal 346 327

Broiled Lamb Chops 327

328

Teriyaki-Style London Broil 328

Beef Fajitas 329 Broiled Smoked Pork Chop with Flageolet Beans and Wilted Arugula 329 Grilled Marinated Pork Tenderloin with Sweet Potato Purée and Warm Chipotle Salsa 330 Grilled Chopped Lamb “Steaks” with Rosemary and Pine Nuts 331 Grilled Chopped Beef “Steaks” with Marjoram 331

Shish Kebab 331 Broiled Lamb Kidneys with Bacon Grilled Venison with Lime Butter Grilled Loin of Elk 332 Breaded Veal Cutlets 335

332 332

Blanquette of Lamb 346 Blanquette of Pork 346

Irish Lamb Stew 346 Tripes à la Mode de Caen Pearl Balls 348

347

Fried Pork Balls 348 Wontons 348

Shredded Pork (Carnitas)

349

Picadillo 349 Shortcut Picadillo 349

Dillkött

349

Dillkött på Lamm

349

Braised Beef Jardinière 355 Braised Lamb Shoulder 355

Braised Short Ribs

356

Swiss Steak 356 Swiss Steaks in Tomato Sauce 356 Swiss Steaks with Sour Cream 356 Swiss Steaks in Red Wine Sauce 356 Braised Oxtails 356 Braised Lamb Shanks 356

336

Veal Scaloppine with Sherry 336 Veal Scaloppine à la Crème 336 Veal Scaloppine with Lemon 336 Veal Scaloppine with Mushrooms and Cream 336

Beef Stew

357

Beef Stew with Red Wine 357 Boeuf Bourguignon 357 Navarin of Lamb (Brown Lamb Stew) 357 Brown Veal Stew 357 Brown Veal with White Wine 357 Beef Pot Pie 357

337

Tournedos Béarnaise 337 Tournedos Bordelaise 337 Tournedos Chasseur 337 Tournedos Rossini 337

338

Pork Chops Robert 338 Pork Chops Piquante 338 Veal Chops 338

Thai Green Curry of Pork with Vegetables Thyme-Scented Medallions of Lamb with Balsamic Glaze 339

345

Lamb Tagine with Chickpeas 350 Poached Beef Tenderloin with Beef Short Rib Ravioli in Morel Consommé 351 Beef Short Ribs Sous Vide with Bordelaise Sauce 352 Beef Pot Roast 355

Veal Cutlet Sauté Gruyère 335 Schnitzel à la Holstein 335 Veal Cutlet Viennese-Style (Wiener Schnitzel) 335 Veal Parmigiana 335 Veal Cordon Bleu 335 Breaded Pork Cutlets 335

Pork Chops Charcutière

345

Simmered Pork Shoulder with Cabbage 345

Red Wine Marinade for Game 324 Roast Loin of Rabbit with Risotto 325 Broiled Strip Loin Steak Maître d’Hôtel

Tournedos Vert-Pré

343

Simmered Fresh Beef Brisket (“Boiled Beef”)

Leg of Venison Grand Veneur 324

Veal Scaloppine alla Marsala

340

Medallions of Boar Poîvrade with Cassis 340

Steak en Chevreuil 341 Sautéed Veal Sweetbreads with Shiitake Mushrooms and Port Wine Sauce 341 Stir-Fried Beef with Bell Peppers 342 Costolette di Vitello Ripiene alla Valdostana (Veal Cutlets Val d’Aosta-Style) 343

Home-Style All-Beef Meatloaf 323 Italian-Style Meatloaf 323 Salisbury Steak 323 Baked Meatballs 323

London Broil

Beef Stroganoff 339 Calf’s Liver Lyonnaise 340 Medallions of Venison Poîvrade with Cassis

338

Boeuf à la Mode (Beef Braised in Red Wine) 358 Lombatine di Maiale alla Napoletana (Braised Pork Chops Naples-Style) 359 Pollo con Peperoni all’Abruzzese 359 Provençal Beef Stew 360 Provençal Lamb Stew 360

Chile con Carne

361

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RECIPE CONTENTS

Chile with Beans 361 Game Chile 361

Texas Red

Spicy Barbecue-Style Grilled Chicken 402 Grilled Chicken Marinated in Yogurt and Spices

361

Texas Short Ribs 361

Braised Beef with Ancho Chiles 362 Veal Fricassée 362 Pork Fricassée 362 Osso Buco 363 Hungarian Goulash (Veal, Beef, or Pork) Rabbit with Mustard 364 Lamb Vindaloo 365

364

366

368

Lamb Curry 368

369 369

Chapter 13 Cooking Poultry and Game Birds

385

387

Baked Herbed Chicken 387 Baked Rosemary Chicken 387 Baked Chicken Parmesan 387

Roast Chicken with Natural Gravy

Poached Chicken Breast Princesse

421

Poached Chicken Breast Florentine 421

Chicken or Turkey Pot Pie

Roast Squab with Mushrooms 392 Roast Duckling à l’Orange 393 Roast Duckling, Bohemian Style 393 Roast Goose 393

Broiled Chicken, Quantity Method 400 Broiled Rock Cornish Game Hen 400 Broiled Tarragon Chicken 400 Broiled Deviled Chicken (Poulet à la Diable) 400

401

Grilled Spiced Cornish Hen 401

Grilled Chicken with Garlic and Ginger

Chicken Blanquette I

Tendon

423

423

Red-Cooked Chicken Tea-Smoked Duck

424 425

Crispy Duck 425

Mole Poblano de Pollo or de Guajolote Chicken Fricassée 428 Chicken Fricassée with Tarragon 428 Chicken Fricassée à l’Indienne 428 Fricassée of Turkey Wings 428 Veal Fricassée 428 Pork Fricassée 428 Fricassée à l’Ancienne 428 Fricassée Brunoise 428 Fricassée Argenteuil 428

Chicken Chasseur 402

422

Chicken Blanquette II 422 Chicken Blanquette à l’Ancienne (Ancient Style) 422 Chicken Blanquette Brunoise 422 Chicken Blanquette Argenteuil 422

Oyako Donburi

Pan-Smoked Spiced Chicken Breasts with Fruit Salsa 394 Quail Baked with Prosciutto and Herbs 395 Stuffed Chicken Legs with Pecan Butter 396 Chicken Poêlé 398 Broiled Chicken 400

Chicken Paillard with Grilled Vegetables Grilled Spiced Squab with Couscous and Fig Compote 401

422

Chicken or Turkey Stew 422

390

Roast Capons and Large Chickens 390 Roast Turkey, Chicken, or Capon with Cream Gravy 390

Southwestern Grilled Chicken 402 Grilled Chicken Oriental Style 402

Turkey Scaloppine with Shiitake Mushrooms and Roasted Shallots 410 Quail with Balsamic Glaze 411 Quail with Creole Spices 412 Sautéed Chicken with Tomatoes and Mushrooms 413 Tangerine-Marinated Breast of Duck 414 Chicken Stir-Fry with Walnuts 415 Chicken Teriyaki 416 Chicken Breasts Parmesan 417 Vietnamese Stir-Fried Chicken with Chile 418 “Boiled” Fowl 420 Simmered Chicken or Turkey 420

388

Roast Herbed Chicken 388 Roast Chicken with Gravy 388 Roast Chicken with Cream Gravy 388

Roast Turkey with Giblet Gravy

404

Fried Chicken Maryland 409 Fried Chicken Breast Strips 409

Braised Sweetbreads 367 Swedish Meatballs 367 Veal Curry with Mangos and Cashews

Baked Chicken

Jerk Spice Mixture 403 Jerk Chicken 403 Grilled Quail Marinated in Soy Barbecue Sauce 404 Grilled Ostrich or Emu with Adobo Spices Grilled Spiced Turkey Burger 405 Pan-Fried Chicken 407 Country-Style Fried Chicken 407

Sauerbraten with Sour Cream Gravy 366

Saltimbocca alla Romana Carbonnade à la Flammande

402

Sautéed Boneless Breast of Chicken with Mushroom Sauce 408 Deep-Fried Chicken 409

Beef Vindaloo 365

Sauerbraten

xi i i

429

Chicken Bercy 429 Chicken Portugaise 429 Chicken Hongroise 429

426

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RECIPE CONTENTS

Braised Duckling with Sauerkraut

430

Escalope of Salmon with Red Wine Sauce

Braised Duckling with Cabbage 430

488

Escalope of Salmon with Herb Cream 488

Paprika Chicken 430 Chicken alla Cacciatora 431 Chicken Braised with Vinegar 432 Pheasant en Cocotte 432 Salmis of Partridge 433 Coq au Vin 434 Arroz con Pollo (Spanish Rice with Chicken) Chicken Couscous 436 Duck Confit 437 Basic Bread Dressing 439

Crab Cakes with Roasted Pepper Rémoulade 489 Cornmeal-Crusted Soft-Shell Crabs with Cornmeal Pancakes and Roasted Tomatoes 489 Peppered Haddock with Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Parsley Sauce 490 Peppered Haddock with Purée of Flageolet Beans 490

435

Sausage Dressing 439 Chestnut Dressing 439 Mushroom Dressing 439 Giblet Dressing 439 Cornbread Dressing 439

Spicy Shrimp or Scallop Sauté 491 Shrimp and Cucumber in Thai Red Curry Skate with Caper Butter 492 Pan-Fried Catfish with Shrimp Etouffée Fried Breaded Fish Fillets 494

492 493

Fried Breaded Scallops 494 Fried Breaded Shrimp 494 Fried Oysters or Clams 494

Fish and Chips

495

Fisherman’s Platter 495

Chapter 15 Cooking Fish and Shellfish

471

Cod Cakes

496

Salmon or Tuna Cakes 496

Baked Cod Fillets Portugaise 473 Baked Fish with Tomatoes and Mushrooms

474

Baked Fish à la Menagère 474

Baked Stuffed Mackerel 474 Baked Pike Fillets English Style 475 Baked Clams Oreganata 475 Pan-Smoked Salmon Fillet with Pepper Salad 476 Baked Oysters with Balsamic Vinegar, Arugula, and Pine Nuts 476 Roasted Monkfish with Spinach and White Beans 477 Broiled Fish Steaks Maître d’Hôtel 479 Grilled Tuna with Balsamic Vinaigrette and Sweet-Sour Baby Onions 480 Grilled Mahi-Mahi with Fruit Salsa 481 Broiled Mako Shark Steaks with Browned Garlic Vinaigrette 481 Broiled Salmon in Escabeche 482 Broiled Lobster 483 Broiled Rock Lobster Tail 483

484

Shrimp Brochettes 484 Broiled Scallops 484 Broiled Fish Fillets or Steaks with Garlic Butter 484 Clams Casino 485

487

Fillets of Fish Doré 487 Trout Meunière 487 Fish Sauté Amandine 487 Fish Sauté Grenobloise 487 Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs 487

Sautéed Scallops with Tomato, Garlic, and Parsley 488 Sautéed Shrimp 488

Sole Vin Blanc (Poached Fillets of Sole in White Wine Sauce) 504 Glazed Poached Fish 505 Poached Fish Bonne Femme 505 Poached Fish Dugléré 505 Poached Fish Mornay 505 Poached Fish Florentine 505 Sole Paupiettes with Seafood Mousseline 505 Seafood à la Nage 505

Pesce con Salsa Verde 506 Scallops and Shrimp à la Nage

507

Salmon à la Nage 507

508

Zuppa di Cozze 508 Zuppa di Frutti di Mare Zuppa di Pesce 508

Lobster à l’Americaine

508

511

Lobster Newburg 511 Shrimp à l’Americaine or Shrimp Newburg 511

485

Fillets of Sole Meunière

Poached Fish Steaks 503 “Boiled” Shellfish (Lobster, Crab, Shrimp) 503

Zuppa di Vongole

Broiled Shrimp, Scampi Style

Oysters Casino

Deep-Fried Calamari with Spicy Tomato Sauce and Aïoli 497 Shrimp and Vegetable Tempura 498 Ordinary Court Bouillon for Fish 502 Court Bouillon with White Wine 502 Poached Whole Fish 503

Moules Marinière (Steamed Mussels)

512

Steamed Mussels (without wine) 512 Mussels in Cream 512

Mackerel en Papillote 513 Steamed Sea Bass with Garlic and Ginger Seafood Newburg 514 Seafood Curry 514

Fisherman’s Stew

515

514

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RECIPE CONTENTS

Seafood Casserole au Gratin

516

Sautéed Mushrooms

Salmon or Tuna Casserole 516

Pan-Fried Eggplant with Tomato Sauce

516

518

Sunchoke Galettes 578 Stir-Fry of Asparagus, Green Beans, and Snow Peas 579 Corn with Poblanos 579

Nigirizushi (Finger Sushi) 518 Chirashizushi (Scatter Sushi) 518 Tekka-maki (Tuna Roll) 518 Kappa-maki (Cucumber Roll) 518

Tuna Tartare

Gratin of Corn and Poblanos 579 Corn and Poblanos in Cream 579

520

Salmon Tartare 520 Tartare of Salmon and Sea Bass 520

Scallop Seviche

Stir-Fried Mixed Vegetables 580 Mixed Vegetables with Thai Green Curry Brussels Sprouts with Walnuts 582 Braised Red Cabbage 583

521

Chapter 17 Cooking Vegetables

561

Buttered Vegetables 565 Herbed Vegetables 565 Amandine 565 Hollandaise 565 Polonaise 565

Fresh Sauerkraut 584 Peas à la Française 585 Braised Celery 585 Braised Celery Hearts 585 Braised Celery with Brown Sauce 585 Braised Celery Root 585 Braised Lettuce 585

566

Creamed Vegetables 566

566

Ratatouille 586 Lecsó 586 Eggplant, Sichuan Style Gratin of Fennel 587 Baked Acorn Squash

Broccoli with Cheddar Cheese Sauce 566

Puréed Butternut Squash

567

Mashed Rutabagas or Yellow Turnips 567

Cauliflower au Gratin

567

Green Beans with Sesame Dressing Sesame Miso Dressing

Pan-Steamed Kohlrabi with Parsley

569 570 571

Cipolline in Agrodolce (Sweet-Sour Onions)

571

Glazed Root Vegetables

572

Glazed Carrots (Carrots Vichy)

572

Spinaci alla Romana (Roman-Style Spinach) Spinaci alla Piemontese

573

573

Ragoût of Summer Vegetables

574

Artichokes Cooked Sous Vide in a Warm Vinaigrette, and Aromatic Vegetables Zucchini Sauté Provençal

577

Shredded Zucchini with Shallots 577 Zucchini with Tomatoes 577 Zucchini with Cream 577

590

Roasted Onions 590 Roasted Summer Vegetables 590

Green Beans with Pecans and Browned Shallots 569

Artichokes Clamart

589

Roasted Onion Purée 589 Roasted Winter Vegetables

568

Green Beans with Roasted Peppers and Bacon 569

Onion Compote

587

Gingered Squash 589 Puréed Squash 589

568

568

Collards with Ham

584

Braised Fresh Sauerkraut 584 Choucroute Garni 584

Peas, Carrots, and Pearl Onions with Tarragon Butter 565

Broc