Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing 9780824863838
A thousand years after Hawaiians first paddled long wooden boards into the ocean, modern surfers have continued this pra
274 38 861KB
English Pages 352 Year 2008
Table of contents :
Contents
Acknowledgments
Introduction
Part I. Surfriding in Polynesian Culture
Myths, Legends, Chants, and Proverbs
1. Samuel Mânaiakalani Kamakau, “Kelea-nui-noho-‘ana-‘api‘api”
2. King David Kalâkaua and Roland M. Daggett, “The Story of Laie-i-ka-wai”
3. William Westervelt, “A Surfing Legend”
4. William Westervelt, “A Shark Punished at Waikiki”
5. Clarice B. Taylor, “Faithless Lover Is Turned to Stone”
6. Mary Kawena Pukui and Alfons L. Korn, “Name Chant for Naihe”
7. Nona Beamer, “‘Auhea ‘O Ka Lani 76. (Where is the Royal Chief?)”
8. Rerioterai Tava and Moses K. Keale Sr., “Ka Hui Nalu Mele: The Surf Club Song”
9. Mary Kawena Pukui, Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings
Part II. Explorers, Missionaries, and Travelers (1769– 1896)
Introduction
10. John Papa ‘Αî, “Activities in Court Circles,” from 10. Fragments of Hawaiian History: Kuokoa
Explorers
11. Sir Joseph Banks, An Account of the Voyages Undertaken by the Order of His Present Majesty for Making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere
12. William Anderson, A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean
13. Charles Clerke, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery
14. William Ellis, An Authentic Narrative of a Voyage Performed by Captain Cook and Captain Clerke in His Majesty’s Ships Resolution and Discovery
15. David Samwell, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery
16. George Gilbert, Captain Cook’s Final Voyage: The Journal of Midshipman George Gilbert
17. James King, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery
18. John Douglas, ed., A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean
19. William Bligh, The Log of the Bounty
20. James Morrison, The Journal of James Morrison, Boatswain’s Mate of the Bounty
21. Peter Puget, A Voyage of Discovery to the Northern Pacific Ocean and Round the World, 1791–1795
Missionaries
22. Hiram Bingham, “Mission at the Sandwich Islands”
23. William Ellis, Narrative of a Tour through Hawaii
24. William Ellis, Polynesian Researches
25. W. S. W. Ruschenberger, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World
26. Charles Wilkes, Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition
27. Hiram Bingham, A Residence of Twenty-one Years in the Sandwich Islands
Travelers
28. Herman Melville, Mardi and a Voyage Thither
29. Henry T. Cheever, Life in the Sandwich Islands
30. Chester S. Lyman, Around the Horn to the Sandwich Islands and California, 1845–1850
31. Samuel S. Hill, Travels in the Sandwich and Society Islands
32. Sophia Cracroft, The Victorian Visitors
33. J. Waiamau, “Ancient Sports of Hawaii: Such as Surfing, Jumping, Sledding, Betting and Boxing”
34. Mark Twain, Roughing It
35. Abraham Fornander, Honolulu Directory and Historical Sketch of the Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands
36. Isabella Bird, The Hawaiian Archipelago: Six Months among the Palm Groves, Coral Reefs and Volcanoes of the Sandwich Islands
37. Henry Carrington Bolton, “Some Hawaiian Pastimes”
38. Anonymous, “Hawaiian Surf Riding”
Part III. Surfriding Revival (1907–1954)
Introduction
39. Jack London, “Riding The South Seas Surf”
40. Alexander Hume Ford, “Aquatic Sports”
41. M. Leola Crawford, Seven Weeks in Hawaii
42. George Freeth, Article from The Evening Herald
43. Tom Blake, Hawaiian Surfboard
44. C. P. L. Nicholls, “Lessons in Surfing for Everyman”
45. Thomas C. Zahn, “Surf boarding from Molokai to Waikiki”
Part IV. Youth Culture (1957–1979)
Introduction
46. Frederick Kohner, Gidget
47. Tom Wolfe, “The Pump House Gang Meets the Black 57. Panthers—or Silver Threads among the Gold in Surf City”
48. John Witzig, “We’re Tops Now”
49. Mickey Dora, “Mickey on Malibu”
50. Kevin Naughton, Craig Peterson, and Greg Carpenter, “Centroamerica”
51. Kimo Hollinger, “An Alternate Viewpoint”
52. Jack McCoy, “We’re Number One—Interview: Ian Cairns”
53. C. R. Stecyk III, Articles from Skateboarder Magazine
54. Erik Aeder, “Indonesia: Just Another Paradise”
Part V. Surfing Today
Introduction
55. Bruce Jenkins, “Laird Hamilton: 20th Century Man”
56. Steve Pezman, “The Cat’s Ninth Life . . . On Visiting Miki Dora Near the End”
57. Susan Orlean, “The Maui Surfer Girls”
58. Steve Barilotti, “Lost Horizons: Surf Colonialism in the 21st Century”
59. Matt Warshaw, “Winterland: Fred Van Dyke, and the Blissful, Stressful, Unpredictable Life of the Older Surfer”
Part VI. What Is Surfing?
Introduction
60. William Finnegan, “Playing Doc’s Games—I”
61. Thomas Farber, On Water
62. Daniel Duane, Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
63. Mark Jarman, “Ground Swell”
64. Richard Katrovas, “The Surfer”
65. Richard Robbins, “Surfing Accident at Trestles Beach”
66. Allan C. Weisbecker, In Search of Captain Zero
67. Bob Shacochis, “Return of the Prodigal Surfer”
Permissions
Notes
Bibliography
About the Editor
Contents
Acknowledgments
Introduction
Part I. Surfriding in Polynesian Culture
Myths, Legends, Chants, and Proverbs
1. Samuel Mânaiakalani Kamakau, “Kelea-nui-noho-‘ana-‘api‘api”
2. King David Kalâkaua and Roland M. Daggett, “The Story of Laie-i-ka-wai”
3. William Westervelt, “A Surfing Legend”
4. William Westervelt, “A Shark Punished at Waikiki”
5. Clarice B. Taylor, “Faithless Lover Is Turned to Stone”
6. Mary Kawena Pukui and Alfons L. Korn, “Name Chant for Naihe”
7. Nona Beamer, “‘Auhea ‘O Ka Lani 76. (Where is the Royal Chief?)”
8. Rerioterai Tava and Moses K. Keale Sr., “Ka Hui Nalu Mele: The Surf Club Song”
9. Mary Kawena Pukui, Hawaiian Proverbs & Poetical Sayings
Part II. Explorers, Missionaries, and Travelers (1769– 1896)
Introduction
10. John Papa ‘Αî, “Activities in Court Circles,” from 10. Fragments of Hawaiian History: Kuokoa
Explorers
11. Sir Joseph Banks, An Account of the Voyages Undertaken by the Order of His Present Majesty for Making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere
12. William Anderson, A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean
13. Charles Clerke, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery
14. William Ellis, An Authentic Narrative of a Voyage Performed by Captain Cook and Captain Clerke in His Majesty’s Ships Resolution and Discovery
15. David Samwell, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery
16. George Gilbert, Captain Cook’s Final Voyage: The Journal of Midshipman George Gilbert
17. James King, The Journals of Captain James Cook on his Voyages of Discovery
18. John Douglas, ed., A Voyage to the Pacific Ocean
19. William Bligh, The Log of the Bounty
20. James Morrison, The Journal of James Morrison, Boatswain’s Mate of the Bounty
21. Peter Puget, A Voyage of Discovery to the Northern Pacific Ocean and Round the World, 1791–1795
Missionaries
22. Hiram Bingham, “Mission at the Sandwich Islands”
23. William Ellis, Narrative of a Tour through Hawaii
24. William Ellis, Polynesian Researches
25. W. S. W. Ruschenberger, Narrative of a Voyage Round the World
26. Charles Wilkes, Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition
27. Hiram Bingham, A Residence of Twenty-one Years in the Sandwich Islands
Travelers
28. Herman Melville, Mardi and a Voyage Thither
29. Henry T. Cheever, Life in the Sandwich Islands
30. Chester S. Lyman, Around the Horn to the Sandwich Islands and California, 1845–1850
31. Samuel S. Hill, Travels in the Sandwich and Society Islands
32. Sophia Cracroft, The Victorian Visitors
33. J. Waiamau, “Ancient Sports of Hawaii: Such as Surfing, Jumping, Sledding, Betting and Boxing”
34. Mark Twain, Roughing It
35. Abraham Fornander, Honolulu Directory and Historical Sketch of the Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands
36. Isabella Bird, The Hawaiian Archipelago: Six Months among the Palm Groves, Coral Reefs and Volcanoes of the Sandwich Islands
37. Henry Carrington Bolton, “Some Hawaiian Pastimes”
38. Anonymous, “Hawaiian Surf Riding”
Part III. Surfriding Revival (1907–1954)
Introduction
39. Jack London, “Riding The South Seas Surf”
40. Alexander Hume Ford, “Aquatic Sports”
41. M. Leola Crawford, Seven Weeks in Hawaii
42. George Freeth, Article from The Evening Herald
43. Tom Blake, Hawaiian Surfboard
44. C. P. L. Nicholls, “Lessons in Surfing for Everyman”
45. Thomas C. Zahn, “Surf boarding from Molokai to Waikiki”
Part IV. Youth Culture (1957–1979)
Introduction
46. Frederick Kohner, Gidget
47. Tom Wolfe, “The Pump House Gang Meets the Black 57. Panthers—or Silver Threads among the Gold in Surf City”
48. John Witzig, “We’re Tops Now”
49. Mickey Dora, “Mickey on Malibu”
50. Kevin Naughton, Craig Peterson, and Greg Carpenter, “Centroamerica”
51. Kimo Hollinger, “An Alternate Viewpoint”
52. Jack McCoy, “We’re Number One—Interview: Ian Cairns”
53. C. R. Stecyk III, Articles from Skateboarder Magazine
54. Erik Aeder, “Indonesia: Just Another Paradise”
Part V. Surfing Today
Introduction
55. Bruce Jenkins, “Laird Hamilton: 20th Century Man”
56. Steve Pezman, “The Cat’s Ninth Life . . . On Visiting Miki Dora Near the End”
57. Susan Orlean, “The Maui Surfer Girls”
58. Steve Barilotti, “Lost Horizons: Surf Colonialism in the 21st Century”
59. Matt Warshaw, “Winterland: Fred Van Dyke, and the Blissful, Stressful, Unpredictable Life of the Older Surfer”
Part VI. What Is Surfing?
Introduction
60. William Finnegan, “Playing Doc’s Games—I”
61. Thomas Farber, On Water
62. Daniel Duane, Caught Inside: A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast
63. Mark Jarman, “Ground Swell”
64. Richard Katrovas, “The Surfer”
65. Richard Robbins, “Surfing Accident at Trestles Beach”
66. Allan C. Weisbecker, In Search of Captain Zero
67. Bob Shacochis, “Return of the Prodigal Surfer”
Permissions
Notes
Bibliography
About the Editor
- Author / Uploaded
- Patrick Moser (editor)
