Overland to California on the Southwestern Trail, 1849: Diary of Robert Eccleston [Reprint 2020 ed.] 9780520345232

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B A N C R O F T LIBRARY P U B L I C A T I O N S NUMBER TWO o FRIENDS OF THE BANCROFT LIBRARY

1950

Robert Eccleston 1830-1911

T@ Ml

on the Southwestern Trail /J/ (c1

DIARY

OF ROBERT

ECCLESTON

Edited, by George P. Hammond and Edward H. Howes

Berkeley t$Los Angeles amkcrgit? of California p t m 19SO

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS BERKELEY AND LOS ANGELES CALIFORNIA •o

CAMBREDGE UNIVERSITY PRESS LONDON, ENGLAND

COPYRIGHT, 1 9 5 0 , BY T H E R E G E N T S O F T H E UNIVERSITY O F C A L I F O R N I A

P R I N T E D I N T H E U N I T E D STATES O F A M E R I C A BY T H E W E S T G A T E PRESS

CONTENTS Introduction

i

Sign Posts of the Trail

xiii

CHAPTER

I. New York to Texas on the Benjamin R. Milam . . .

3

II. From the Gulf to the Nueces River

21

III. The Nueces to the Devils River

51

IV. Devils River to the Pecos

73

V. From the Pecos to Wild Rose Pass

93

VI. Along the Rio Grande and in the Valley of El Paso

. 127

VII. El Paso to San Diego Crossing of the Rio Grande . . 155 VIII. From the Rio Grande to Apache Pass

167

IX. Apache Pass to the Pima Villages on the Gila

. .

. 187

X. Down the Gila Valley

209

XI. Rio Colorado to New River and Camp Salvation .

. 229

Appendix: Robert Eccleston's Family

249

Index

251 MAPS

The Gulf of Mexico to El Paso, 1849

. .

. Facing page

73

The Rio Grande to California, via the Tucson Cutoff Facing page 167

INTRODUCTION of the California gold discoveries had reached the East during the summer of 1848 and had been confirmed in President James K. Polk's annual message to Congress in December. At once thousands of men seized the first opportunity to head west for the reputed easy riches. Some went individually, or formed partnerships; others joined groups especially organized to make the California trip and to engage in mining as a cooperative enterprise. Such a group was the Fremont Association, of New York, which Robert Eccleston and his brother, Edward, joined early in the spring of 1849. WORD

Of these men, Robert Eccleston distinguished himself in a literary and historical way by keeping a diary in which he painstakingly recorded the details of the trip from Texas to California. It is especially interesting as a record of the opening of two sections of the great Southwestern Trail, the Lower Road from San Antonio to El Paso and the cutoff from the Burro Mountains in New Mexico to Tucson, as well as for its description of the entire nine-month journey to the Pacific Coast. The first notice of the Fremont organization was published in the New York Herald for Saturday, March 17,1849: Fremont Association meet this evening at 7Y2 o'clock, at the Minerva Rooms, 406 Broadway, to make final arrangements for our departure for California. Isaac Brower, President. 1 Similar or more detailed notices appeared regularly thereafter until April 2, with news of proposed time of sailing, equipment to be used—"clothing, saddles, tents, wagons, hammocks, camp equipages of all kinds"—together with an appeal for a few more members. The cost was $180 and the journey would go through "in 45 days," under escort of General William J. Worth and the celebrated Colonel "Jack" Hays. i

Introduction The Association very early decided to go by sea to Galveston, and to take their wagons with them, in order to get an early start overland in the spring, as is seen from their advertisement in the Herald for March 25. On April 3, they boarded the packet ship, Benjamin R. Milam, and set sail for the Gulf of Mexico. Texas, in this winter of 1848-49, was seething with activity. San Antonio, in particular, hoped to become the entrepot of a great trade with Chihuahua and other parts of northern Mexico, and its merchants had sent Colonel John C. Hays, a former Texas Ranger, tofinda practicable wagon road to El Paso.1 The United States Government gave impetus to this movement by sending Major General William J. Worth, in December, 1848, to station troops along the Rio Grande, where he soon died of the cholera, and by dispatching several parties to explore the trails to El Paso in the hope of finding a good wagon road. One of these parties was headed by Lieutenants William F. Smith and William H. C. Whiting. They set out in February, 1849, via the usual Fredericksburg-San Saba, or Upper Route, but returned in May to San Antonio along a more southerly trail, soon to be known as the Lower Road, where they found grass and water abundant and the road suitable for wagons.2 To test the practical nature of this route and to construct a wagon road, the government sent Major Jefferson Van Home and a battalion of troops in June, 1849. The troops, comprising six companies of the 3rd United States Infantry, left .San Antonio on June 3. Two hundred and 1 Excellent background studies of the southwestern trails to California, with abundant references, are given by Ralph P. Bieber, "The Southwestern Trails to California in 1849," Mississippi Valley Historical Review, XII (1925-26), pp. 3 4 2 375; by Mabelle Eppard Martin, "California Emigrant Roads through Texas," Southwestern Historical Quarterly, XXVIII (1924-25), pp. 287-301; and by A. B. Bender, "Opening Routes across West Texas, 1848-1850," in ibid., XXXVII (1933-34), pp. 116-135. 2 Whiting's Journal is reproduced in Exploring Southwestern Trails, (Glendale, 1938), by R. P. Bieber and A. B. Bender, pp. 243-350.

ii

1846-1854

Introduction seventy-five wagons, driven by civilian teamsters, rolled in the supply trains, and the battalion herded, drove, or rode some 2,500 head of stock, including beef cattle, draft oxen, and saddle horses. The Fremonters, in the meantime, had made the voyage to Galveston without serious mishap. They remained in that port for a few days before re-embarking for Port Lavaca, on Matagorda Bay. At Port Lavaca, in the booming livestock market, they bought oxen for their wagons, and individual members purchased horses and mules for riding or for pack animals. From Port Lavaca the party began the overland journey to the west, but all was not harmony within the group. Some were already disheartened, due to fear of Indians, cholera, poverty, the 2,000 miles of wilderness ahead of them, or because they were getting on one another's nerves. Isaac Brower, the president, was in financial difficulty at Lavaca and had to borrow money from other members of the Association, and apparently others were in straitened circumstances also. At Victoria, less than fifty miles from the Gulf Coast, members began to drop out.3 But the others pushed on and reached San Antonio on June 8. Here they learned that the much-heralded expedition of Major Van Home, which they expected to accompany, had set out a couple of weeks earlier. Nevertheless, the Fremonters made their preparations to continue and did catch up with the soldiers in time to take advantage of their protection most of the way to El Paso. The troops, and the emigrants traveling in convoy with them, arrived at El Paso on September 8,1849, one hundred days and 673 miles out from San Antonio. In opening the new trail they had passed the future sites of Forts Inge, Clark, Stockton, Davis, " Eccleston's diary says virtually nothing of the trip from Lavaca to San Antonio, but a letter from the chaplain of the expedition, Mr. Weld, to the St. Louis Republican, quoted in the New York Herald for June 10, 1849, reveals what was happening. jy

Introduction and Quitman, posts which were established later to protect the mail riders, stages, and emigrants who followed this popular route. After a few days in various camp sites near El Paso, and a few visits to that interesting old Mexican town, the Fremont Association moved up the Rio Grande, past Dona Ana, New Mexico, a small Mexican settlement with an American garrison nearby, and crossed the river a few miles above the town. Continuing north along the west bank of the Rio Grande, they camped at Santa Barbara, later the site of Fort Thorne. A short, rough ascent westward out of the river valley put the company on Cooke's wagon road, the trail most used by emigrants going through the Southwest to California. Cooke's road turned south along the Mimbres Range, west across these mountains and the Mimbres River, and southwest sixteen miles to Ojo de la Vaca, twenty-five miles south of present-day Silver City, New Mexico. At this spring, one of the oldest known watering places in the region, the trail intersected the old Spanish road connecting the Copper Mines of Santa Rita, a few miles to the north, with the presidio town of Janos and the smelters of Chihuahua, far to the south. From Ojo de la Vaca the emigrant party continued for about fourteen miles to the vicinity of Soldier's Farewell Peak, one of the southernmost extensions of the Burro Mountains. At this landmark, Cooke's well-traveled route veered off to the old Janos road and described a wide arc below the present international boundary, passed over Guadalupe Pass and through San Bernardino Canyon, and turned north down the San Pedro Valley before it again swung west to Tucson. At Soldier's Farewell Peak, the Fremont Association, instead of following the old road far to the south, left Cooke's trail and took a new cutoff to Tucson, which earned for the party a prominent place in the history of American Southwestern travel and iv

Introduction exploration. Here they struck out into country totally unknown to Americans and familiar only in a general way to a few of the local Mexicans. First to mention the Tucson cutoff was Colonel Philip St. George Cooke, whose name has been given to the wagon road he and his famous Mormon Battalion opened between Santa Fe and San Diego in 1846-47/ As noted above, he turned south upon reaching the peak now called Soldier's Farewell, but labeled Ben Moore Mountain on Emory's map of Cooke's and Kearny's routes, and so named by Eccleston and others of his party. Before changing course, however, Cooke considered taking the open plain to the west, which seemed to offer good terrain for wagon travel as far as the eye could see. Apparent lack of water deterred him, however, after he had sent out his guides to explore in that direction. In his report and sketch map, Cooke indicated the proposed route to Tucson. He stated that his chief guide, Antoine Leroux, thought it would be practicable for travel by small emigrant parties, if water could be found. Apparently it was that intrepid Texan, John C. Hays, who persuaded the Fremont Association to attempt the short-cut through unknown country to Tucson. Eccleston's party had met this exRanger, hero of both the Texan War of Independence and the Mexican War, as the group was leaving San Antonio. Indeed, Hays and a small party had traveled with the Fremonters during most of the overland journey recorded in Eccleston's diary. In the regrouping of the emigrant parties, beyond El Paso, for the more dangerous travel ahead, Hays was elected captain of the mule train, which consisted of 100 men; and he was probably looked upon for leadership by the wagon train, of which Shipman, of the Pine Bluff Company, and Lingren, of the Fremont4 Cooke's Journal is reprinted, with editorial notes, in Bieber and Bender, Exploring Southwestern Trails, pp. 65-240.

v

Introduction ers, were captain and first lieutenant, respectively, and of which the Fremont Association made up the largest portion. Hays was, moreover, the newly appointed United States Indian Agent for the Gila region. With his commission and instructions, he had received copies of the reports of Emory, Abert, and Cooke, Thus, he had Cooke's map—and probably Emory's—on which the cutoff was marked by a dotted line across a blank space, indicating the unknown character of the country. Although he was unsuccessful in his attempt to meet the Apache Indians for a peace talk at Ben Moore Mountain, Hays did encounter a body of Mexican troops who had pursued the Indians into their home country. From General José Maria Elias, commander of these soldiers, Colonel Hays obtained the services of two Mexican sergeants who were acquainted in a general way with the main topographical features of the region. These men agreed to act as guides for the emigrant party in their attempt to open the suggested short-cut to Tucson. General Elias also gave Hays a small Apache boy prisoner, taken in a recent skirmish between the troops and Indians, who was to serve as a peace hostage in case the emigrant train should encounter a hostile band of the boy's tribesmen. From Ben Moore Mountain the emigrants traveled in a westerly direction past the site of Lordsburg, New Mexico, skirted the playa, or dry lake bed, in this vicinity, and passed over low hills near the present town of Pyramid. Going westward through the Peloncillo Range by way of Stein's Pass, they crossed the present New Mexico-Arizona boundary line into the upper San Simon Valley. Eccleston's description of Welcome Creek, as he called San Simon Creek, seems to indicate that the party forded that stream at or near the Cienega, the marshy area of permanent water on the upper reaches of the creek." 5 One of the best studies of the southern overland route is by Roscoe P. and Margaret B. Conkling, The Butterfield Overland Mail, 1857-1869, 3 vols., Glendale, 1947. vi

Introduction Now in the center of the Chiricahua Apache country, the wagon train moved northwest along the eastern base of the Chiricahua Range, seeking the pass whose existence was known to the Mexican guides. Fortunately for the emigrants they were traveling through this country during what might be termed "the era of good feeling" between the Western Apaches and the Americans. The only encounter which the Fremonters had with the Apaches involved the attempted theft of some oxen which had strayed from the emigrant camp one night, and these were recovered without the use of force on either side. The little line of wagons wound its way slowly up and over Puerto del Dado (Apache Pass) between the Chiricahua and Dos Cabezas Mountains. The pass later achieved notoriety as an Indian stronghold, as a result of which Fort Bowie was established near its eastern entrance in 1862. Emerging from the mountains into Sulphur Springs Valley, the party circled the southern and western edges of that piece of fossil topography now known as the Willcox Playa, another of the dry lake beds peculiar to this part of the Southwest. From Croton Springs, at the northwest corner of the playa, their trail led west again. Between the Little Dragoon and Galiuro Mountains they crossed the saddle, later named Nugent's Pass for John Nugent, a member of Colonel Hays' personal party. The pass brought them to the San Pedro by a descent along Tres Alamos Wash. The weary emigrants forded the San Pedro near the site of the Tres Alamos stage station of later years, moved westward over a fairly level valley between the Rincon and Whetstone mountains, traveled down Mescal Wash to Pantano Wash, and followed along the dry bed of the latter to the place where it bends to the north. In this vicinity they came upon an old trail, and for a time their path once more coincided with Cooke's. Then, diverging from Cooke's road, the Fremonters took a fork in the trail northwest across the vii

Introduction gradually sloping plain of the Santa Cruz River valley to the Papago Indian pueblo near the mission of San Xavier del Bac. A short journey to the north brought the wagon train to Tucson. This cutoff from Cooke's trail between the Burro Mountains and Tucson saved between 125 and 150 miles of travel, or about ten days on the road. When generally adopted in the next decade this route virtually eliminated emigrant travel over the longer and more arduous ox-bow section of Cooke's road, which swung far to the south of the cutoff. The Eccleston diary, a gem among papers recently given to the Bancroft Library by the Eccleston family, establishes a new date for the opening of wagon travel over the Tucson cutoff. While both Ralph P. Bieber and Owen C. Coy have earlier noted the mention of the Fremont Association's cutoff route in the Benjamin I. Hayes diary, its significance was not evident to them from that account. Bieber estimates that some 9,000 emigrants traveled over various Southwestern trails to reach California in 1849. Yet this party is the only one on record which took this short-cut to Tucson before 1851. From Tucson, the Fremonters followed the well-traveled emigrant routes established by Cooke and Kearny over old Spanish and Indian trails. They crossed the desert northwest to the Pima and Maricopa Indian villages on the Gila River. Cutting across another desert stretch from these villages to the big bend of the Gila, the trail led them down that stream to its junction with the Colorado River of the West. They crossed the Colorado below the Gila junction. The diary ends with the party encamped at New River in the desert beyond the Colorado, recruiting themselves and their animals before pushing on to the mines of California. At New River they met, on January 4, 1850, another famous emigrant, Benjamin I. Hayes, later prominent in state and local politics in southern California.

Introduction Hayes recorded in his diary for that day that he had met some members of the Fremont Association, of whom about twenty of the original fifty were still on the road to California. He listed among the members of the Association, which he called "a very merry, contented set," Allen Conrey, Isaac Thompson, T. W. T. Young, Edmund Jones, Augustus F. Leavy, Andrew Lingren, Jos. Lyon, Edward Eccleston, Samuel Seely, and Alexander Marshall. He also commented that they had arrived at New River with no provisions of any kind, expecting to get them from the American commissioner who had been stationed there to supply emigrants, but that, as he too was out of supplies, other emigrants gave them enough to reach Warner's Ranch. Although Eccleston's overland diary ends at New River, he refers to the proposed route, via Warner's Ranch, to Los Angeles. From Los Angeles, the road led up the coast to Monterey and thence inland to the Southern Mines in the lower San Joaquin Valley. Here Eccleston, his brother, and four members of the Fremont Association—Adams, Brooks, Lyon, and Seely— formed a "mess" and searched for gold, with some success, on the Merced River. In January, 1853, Eccleston left the mines for a business trip to Hannibal, Missouri, to purchase sheep. He went by way of San Francisco and the Isthmus of Panama to New Orleans, where he deposited 112 ounces of gold dust at the United States Mint. With his sheep, 350 head, and ten or twelve companions, he crossed the plains to California and arrived at Marysville in the autumn to engage in a new venture. For him, gold mining had come to a prosaic end. The trail of the Fremont Association across the Southwest was followed in general by mail, stagecoach, and railroad routes. The San Antonio-Santa Fe mail route, established in 1849, and the San Antonio-San Diego mail stage line, dating from 1857, followed the Lower Road to El Paso for which the diarist's party ix

Introduction helped to break the trail. The Butterfield Overland Mail Stage line and the San Antonio-San Diego route followed the Fremonters' path, with some modifications, until the outbreak of the Civil War halted such travel. The establishment of the Southern Pacific some years later along this itinerary incorporated much of the path of Eccleston and his companions into an important transcontinental railroad route, while today great modern highways parallel the trail and provide all-year travel to the Pacific Coast. Robert Eccleston's diary is no threadbare tale, but a rich and full description of the daily routines of travel and camping on the long and monotonous stretches. He looked upon his trip to California as a wonderful adventure, and he imparted his enthusiasm for both the commonplace and the extraordinary in his description of people and events. And what amazing characters there are in the pages of his diary! Probably the most remarkable is Colonel Jack Hays, then in his middle thirties, and with already enough adventure and fame for several careers. A brief encounter introduces the mountain man, John L. Hatcher, a pathfinder of the west like his friends Kit Carson and Francois X. Aubry. No less interesting are the somewhat anonymous characters, sketched only in rough outline: impecunious Mr. and Mrs. Phillips with the happy faculty of living off others; the shabby botanist ambling along on foot, gathering specimens in his brief case; the whimsical "Yankee," clown of the wagon train; Gordon, the alleged horse thief and renegade and Colonel Hays' interpreter and envoy to the Apaches; and others equally picturesque. The diary presents a glimpse into the social scene of the midnineteenth century. If occasionally the diarist seems unusually pious it must be remembered that he reflects the religious tone of the times. The democratic spirit of the period is exemplified x

Introduction in the workings of the Fremont Association; Eccleston's jottings faithfully recount the proceedings of its group meetings in which even the most insignificant matters are dragged out and settled by vote of the majority. The elaborate celebration of Independence Day on the prairies of Texas, over 200 miles from the nearest outposts of American settlement, shows a more fervent expression of patriotism than is usual today. Ordinary details of daily routine are so described as to lift them above the humdrum. As a veteran of any campaign can well recall, items of major concern are good drinking water and a chance to bathe on the dry stretches, a warm, dry place in which to sleep on rainy nights, and, under all conditions, variety in a monotonous daily diet. In short, the diary gives an excellent picture of life in an emigrant train bound for California in 1849. Warm and lively, Eccleston's diary is not only entertaining but a valuable contribution to the literature of the opening of the Southwestern Trail, and to Western Americana in general. Eccleston's style of writing is what one would expect from a nineteen-year-old lad. His misspelling of certain words is characteristic and quite consistent, and we have left them as they are. The reader may rest assured that the diary is a faithful version of the author's original day-by-day composition on the trail, except in punctuation and capitalization, which have been adapted to modern usage. In cases where the meaning is obvious but the writer inadvertently omitted a letter or two, these have been supplied. Some explanatory notes have been provided by the editors, and the maps have been designed especially for this diary. The planning of a book places one under a debt of gratitude to many. Professor Herbert E. Bolton, distinguished teacher and author, first introduced the writer to Mrs. C. H. (Ethel Baird) Eccleston and her nephew, William H. Baird, who brought the xi

Introduction aged and faded Eccleston diary to light and recognized its historical and educational value. Her son, Charles Hudson Eccleston, Jr., owner of the diaries, gave them to the Bancroft Library of the University of California for their permanent preservation. Treasures of this character are not only the heritage of individual families but of society as a whole, and in the Bancroft Library they will be accessible to future generations. To all those who have had a hand in the production of this beautiful volume, we pen a warm though inadequate note of appreciation, especially to the Eccleston family, the staff of the Bancroft Library, and the many Friends of the Bancroft Library everywhere, notably the Council, and in particular its chairman, George L. Harding, whose devotion to extension of the Library's usefulness has been an inspiration to us all.

xii

SIGNPOSTS

OF THE

TRAIL

IN charting their course over the Southwestern Trail to California, the editors looked for the footsteps of those who had already broken ground and set up modern guide posts. One of the most active of these has been Ralph P. Bieber, whose article in the Mississippi Valley Historical Review, XII (1925-26), "The Southwestern Trails to California in 1849," is a landmark. This essay appears also as an introduction to his Southern Trails to California in 1849, Volume V of the Southwest Historical Series, Glendale, 1937. The entire Southwest Historical Series, published by Arthur H. Clark and edited by Bieber, is indeed a monumental source of information. Another recent guide is Owen C. Coy, whose Great Trek (Los Angeles, 1931), gives a good general treatment of the Southwestern routes, in addition to the other emigrant trails of '49. Grant Foreman, an active "trail man," presents in Marcy and the Gold Seekers: The Journal of Captain R. B. Marcy, with an account of the Gold Rush over the Southern Route (Norman, 1939), some account of the path of the Frémonters, together with much detail of the southern route in general. Randolph B. Marcy's The Prairie Traveler, a Handbook for Overland Expeditions (New York, 1861), includes official itinerary tables of several military trails of the Southwest in the '50's which overlap the route of the Frémont Association in some sections. For the San Antonio-El Paso portion of the trek, Dorothy H. Huggins has edited, "To California through Texas and Mexico: the Diary and Letters of Thomas B. and Joseph G. Eastland," published in the California Historical Society's Quarterly, XVIII (1939), pp. 95-135,229-250. Lieutenant W. H. C. Whiting's complete journal of his explorations for the southern military road is published in R. P. Bieber and A. B. Bender (eds.), Exploring Southwestern Trails, 1846-1854 (Southwest Historical Series, VI, xiii

Sign Posts of the Trail 1938), pp. 243-350. A number of official reports of these explorations, and of the march of the military expedition and emigrant train which opened the road for travel, are found in the Congressional Executive Documents of the period, published by the House of Representatives and the Senate. Lieutenant Whiting's detailed report is printed in 31st Cong., 1st. Sess., House Executive Document No. 5, part I, pp. 281-293. An extensive report by Captain S. G. French is in 31st Cong., 2nd Sess., H.E.D. No. 1, part II, pp. 302-323. Brief reports by Lieutenants Whiting and W. F. Smith, and Captains French and Joseph E. Johnston, are scattered through Senate Executive Document No. 64 (31st Cong., 1st Sess.), pp. 4-7, 26-29, 40-54, 245-250. An extremely useful item for straightening out the confusion of stream names for this section of the route is Glenn A. Gray's Gazetteer of Streams of Texas (U. S. Geological Survey, Water-Supply Paper No. 448, Washington, D.C., 1919). In addition to Bieber's essay on Southwestern trails, cited above, good secondary accounts of the opening of the emigrant trails across Texas are A. B. Bender's "Opening Routes across West Texas, 1848-1850," Southwestern Historical Quarterly, XXXVII (1933-34), pp. 116-135, Mabelle E. Martin's "California Emigrant Roads through Texas," ibid., XXVIII (1924r-25), pp. 287-301, Joseph H. and James R. Toulouse's Pioneer Posts of Texas (San Antonio, 1936), and Matthew H. Thomlinson's The Garrison of Fort Bliss, 1849-1916 (El Paso, 1945). Manuscript materials which are important for establishing portions of the Fremont Association's trail beyond El Paso, and especially valuable for information on the party's cutoff route to Tucson, are to be found in the Bancroft Library, University of California, Berkeley. The diary of David L. Demarest is the record kept by an emigrant who had been left behind by an earlier party at El Paso, and who joined the mule train accomxiv

Sign Posts of the Trail panying the ox-team wagon train led by Colonel "J a c k" Hays across die Southwest to Tucson. The manuscript, "Life and Adventures of John C. Hays, the Texas Ranger," was dictated to one of Hubert Howe Bancroft's historical staff by Hays and his close friend, Major John Caperton, and although sketchy for its information on this trip, verifies certain key portions of the route. Benjamin I. Hayes' "Diary of a Journey Overland from Socorro (N. M.) to Warner's Ranch," lists several members of the Fremont Association and gives important details of their cutoff to Tucson, from information Hayes gathered in camp with the Fremonters at Camp Salvation on New River, in southern California. These portions of the Hayes diary are included in the book edited by Marjorie T. Wolcott, Pioneer Notes from the Diaries of Judge Benjamin Hayes (Los Angeles, 1929). Supplementing these manuscript materials are various printed sources that complete details of the route beyond El Paso. The journal kept by Lieutenant Colonel Philip St. George Cooke on his march from Santa Fe to San Diego in 1846-47 is given in its entirety in R. P. Bieber and A. B. Bender (eds.), Exploring Southwestern Trails, 1846-1854, pp. 59-240. Cooke's Conquest of New Mexico and California, An Historical and Personal Narrative (New York, 1878), is based on and includes extensive quotes from the original journal. Abridgments of the journal are published in official congressional documents, in 31st Cong., Spec. Sess., S.E.D. No. 2, pp. 1-85, and 30th Cong., 1st Sess., H.E.D. No. 41, pp. 415-416 and 551-563. Lieutenant Colonel W. H. Emory's famous report of Kearny's march from Fort Leavenworth to San Diego comprises most of the latter document, and all of S.E.D. No. 7 of the same session. It is useful here for its geographical descriptions of the Gila River Valley. Detailed and important are two official exploration reports of the 1850's, Lieutenant John G. Parke's reports of his explorations xv

Sign Posts of the Trail on the proposed 32nd Parallel Railroad route (1854-55) in "Pacific Railroad Reports," 33rd Cong., 2nd Sess., S.E.D. No. 78, Vol. II, part vi, and Vol. VII, part i, and Major N. H. Hutton's report of the proposed Pacific Wagon Road over much of the same line in 1857-58, in 35th Cong., 2nd Sess., H.E.D. No. 108, pp. 9-11, 75-93. Valuable for geographical data on the Rio Grande Valley, above and below El Paso, and for the region from Mimbres Valley westward through Apache Pass, is United States Boundary Survey Commissioner John R. Bartlett's Personal Narrative of Explorations and Incidents in Texas, New Mexico, California, Sonora, and Chihuahua... (2 vols., New York, 1854), which also has descriptions of the lower Gila and Colorado River sections of the Southwestern Trail. Useful for the Rio Grande Valley and the route westward is "From Texas to California in 1849: The Diary of C. C. Cox," ed. by Mabelle E. Martin, Southwestern Historical Quarterly, XXIX (1925-26), pp. 36-50, 128-146, 201-212; and Frank H. Hodder (ed.), Audubon's Western Journal: 1849-1850 (Cleveland, 1906), the gold-rush travel journal of the great naturalist's son, John W. Audubon, which is of value for the lower Gila trail, the Colorado crossing, and the emigrant trail through Southern California. For the latter portions of the trek, see also Lieutenant A. W. Whipple's report of his expedition from San Diego to the GilaColorado junction, in 31st Cong., 2nd Sess., S.E.D. No. 19, and William McPherson (ed.), From San Diego to the Colorado in 1849; the Journal and Maps of Cave J. Couts (Los Angeles, 1932). The latter is but a part of a lengthy and extremely interesting manuscript journal by Cave Johnson Couts, a young lieutenant of dragoons, "Diary of a March to California, 1848-1849," in the Bancroft Library Manuscript Collection. To this brief and selective list should be added a recent work by Roscoe P. and Margaret B. Conkling, The Butterfield Overland Mail, 1857-1869 xvi

Sign Posts of the Trail (2 vols, and atlas, Glendale, 1947), which has minutely detailed information on the old Southwestern stagecoach routes. In addition to the above items, Eastern newspapers give important information about the impact of news from the West on older parts of the country. We used the New York Herald, July 1,1848-June 30,1850, of which the Bancroft Library has a microfilm copy. For the specialist who desires further details of the trail, the bibliographies and footnotes of the secondary works cited here will be a fruitful guide, to which we refer the reader.

xvii

Diany of Robert Eccleston

~Nj?w York to Texas on the Benjamin i^. Milam Robert Eccleston weighed before thought of going, 159% lbs Robert Eccleston weighed before leaving, 156% lbs Tuesday, April 3rd. Left New York for Galveston in Ship Benj. R. Milam, 650 tons burthen, 16 mos. old, Allen, master. Left pier No. 12 East River at % past 2 o'clock, towed out by steamboat Santee and anchored off the Battery at Y2 past 3 p.m. Pleasent night's rest, supper rough and tumble anyhow. Difficulty about waggons, a meeting called. Dr. Colyer chairman. A committee appointed to proceed to Mr. J. H. Brower agent's office and enquire in whose name waggons shipped. Committee returned about V2 past 9 and reported that the waggons were shipped in the name of the maker Mulone and the receipts were also in his name, and that the waggons would be delivered to the person holding the receipts, wherever they were to be found. Fine weather. Dr. Colyer surprised us by being accompanied by a young woman (rather pretty) who was called his wife. A suspicious looking boy on board. Trouble about getting Mrs. Colyer a stateroom. No one willing to give theirs up. At last she got a berth in a stateroom occupied by two gentlemen of our mess, the Mr. Browns. There being three berths in each stateroom, one of the Browns slept on the floor. About ninety passengers in all on board, viz., Fremont Association 47, Smith's Company (Overland Protective Co.) 11, about 20 on their own hook and 10 in the 1st cabin. 3

Overland to California Wednesday, April 4th. Rose early. Fine morning. Another meeting, members who were absent last evening called on to show their receipts. Mr. Brower, president, accompanied by a committee of two, consisting of Messrs. Thompson and Young, to arrange with Mulone about the waggons, left at 6 o'clock. Steamer Santee with pilot came alongside at 10 o'clock, waited for committee till 12 o'clock, and then started for quarantine without them. Had gone but a little way when a small boat was seen making for us. On nearing us it was found to contain the president and committee. When they were about 50 yds. from the vessel 3 cheers were given them, which was answered by the words all right.' When they came on board they told us that everything was strait, but that Mr. Brower had to pay the full amount for the waggons, notwithstanding that they were incomplete, wanting the axe, chains, loops for tent poles, &c. A meeting was called after dinner to receive & examine formally the receipts of Mr. Mulone & bills of lading for the waggons, which were found all correct & everything appearing satisfactory. Harmony was restored as soon as this meeting was adjourned. The regular meeting to adopt a constitution & elect officers was called, and Colonel Watson chosen president, Dr. Colyer, secretary. A motion was made to elect by ballot immediately a president, which motion was withdrawn when a motion was made to adopt a constitution, which was carried. The secretary then read the constitution proposed by Mr. Isaac Brower, after which it was moved and carried that each article be read, canvassed, and acted upon separately, the preamble and first. Mr. Isaac Brower was then elected president with only one dissenting voice; Mr. T. B. Johnson, vice president; Mr. G. C. Weld, secretary; W. T. Young, treasurer. The candidates for captain were Isaac Thompson and Meeder. There was a good deal of electioneering for the former during the balloting for the 4

on the Southwestern Trail civil officers, & it was feared by the friends of Meeder that Thompson would be elected. A friend of his, who asked me to vote for him and answering him in the negative, said he had enough of votes to beat us all ready. Fearing it was so and not liking Thompson, whose only recommendation was that he had been a tin man in Mexico, which place we did not intend visiting on our journey, a motion was made by Robt. Eccleston to postpone the election of military officers till we arrived at Port Lavaca, which was carried and became a law. After some other business adjourned. As soon as the president, &c., were on board, the ship was soon in motion and was towed down to quarantine, where we anchored to await a more favorable wind. The steamboat left us here, and many sent letters back to the City by her. We laid in this situation the rest of that day and all of the following night. Thursday, April 5th. Next morning about 10 o'clock the wind shifted slightly and the pilot and captain having a little conference on the subject, the word was given to raise anchor which was soon answered by the clanking of the anchor chain and the voices of our sable crew in a style of Ethiopian minstrelsy entirely new to me. The words of one, which I suppose might be called "Old Tar River," went nearly thus: [SOLO]

Dont you see my ship a sailin, [CHORUS]

Way down in Old Tar River Dont you see my ship a sailin Way down, &c. The greatest ship in all creation Way down, &c. The greatest ship in all creation Way down, &c.

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Overland to California My ole daddy he loves toddy Way down, &c. My ole daddy he loves toddy Way down, &c. There it is for every body Way down, &c. There it is for every body Way down, &c. Say young Gal why dont you marry Way down, &c. Say young Gal why dont you marry Way down, &c. Yes kind Sir I'd rather tarry Way down, &c. Yes kind Sir I'd rather tarry Way down, &c. These verses, repeated a great number of times, together with one or two others which I do not now remember, made one song; and this song, with a couple of others, made the ship move, or rather accelerated the seamen in their work in raising the anchor, which of course set the ship in motion. We were soon under way and going at the rate of about 6 knots. We soon passed Sandy Hook [New Jersey]. We soon after passed a couple of schooners and a brig, which being done so easily gave us a good opinion of the sailin qualities of our ship. We here parted with our pilot, who seemed to be quite a gentlemanly man. When he left the ship in the small boat sent from the pilot boat for him, and had pushed a little from the vessel, we gave him three cheers which he answered with waving his, having wished us a pleasant and prosperous voyage before he left the ship. It now began to be time for some of the passengers to feel a little sick, and so there were, though only a few. Our fare up to this time had been extremely hard; coffee boild in pots, sweetened by mollasses and 6

on the Southwestern Trail wanting milk, raw ham % fat, and some pilot bread; but being hungry we had to go it, and so we did. I learnt that it was Mrs. Colyer's intention to accompany us the whole way through. Whisperings about our suspicious looking boy which kept company a good deal with Mrs. Colyer. Fred, for that was the name by which his brother, or reputed brother, and friends, called him, was a curious looking fellow. He wore a new white palm leaf hat, the only one then worn on board, a brown coat, the sleeves of which were turned up about six inches on account of the length; he wore 'Ladies Ties' partially covered by overshoes, a white shirt and striped cassimere pants, rings on the second finger. He was rather short, for he might have been by looks some twenty summers. Also there was no indication of whiskers, &c., on the face, nor any indication that any had been there. His hair was parted in the centre of the head and cut off by the shoulders and worn behind the ears, voice sharp and light, tone that of the Scotch, forefinger marked like that of sewing girls, but this was easily accounted for. Perhaps Freddy had served his time to the tailoring business. Friday, April 6th. Having slept soundly, I arose feeling quite well, but soon breakfast came, and, having eaten much of the raw ham, &c., together with the motion of the vessel, I soon became quite sick and remained so all day, but felt better towards night. My record of this part of our journey is not as I would wish it to be, but I was too sick to see or hear anything. Our ship, being lightly laden, worked tremendously, and nearly every one on board, although a number of them had been to sea several times before, it was quite rough. Freddy thought by some to be of the feminine gender, whisperings to that effect. Saturday, April 7th. Felt pretty well during the morning, when, having eaten nothing since yesterday morning, a too plentiful supply of beans, which had been boild in pork for dinner, set me back again, and, feeling sick, went soon to bed. 7

Overland to California Sunday, April 8th. This morning was very sick, being our roughest time since we left. Sick all day and eat nothing. Kept on deck all day, felt better towards night. Determined to mind what I ate in future. Satisfied that Freddy, who had been quite sick, was not of the strongest constitution. Fred generally considered of the feminine gender. Commenced reading Rory O'More.1 A man with his wife and four or five children on board bound for California; one of the children an infant, good pluck. Monday, April 9th. Slept well and felt much better, though weak. Amused myself as well as possible reading Rory O'More. Dissatisfaction about Dr. Colyer among the members. Fred surnamed 'Lady Macbeth.' Tuesday, April 10th. Felt well again and read a large portion of Rory O'More, and finished it before sundown. Heard of my appointment as one of the cooks for to-morrow. Went to bed early to rise in time to prepare breakfast. Made good run, took trade winds. Freddy still alive. It amusing to hear her brother call her Freddy and Mrs. Colyer the same moment call him Sissy. I learn that one of our members, Mr. Conrey, was married the night before we left. Wednesday, April 11th. Passed a brig going north about V2 past 6 o'clock A.M. Up before six o'clock preparing breakfast. No sign of Dr. Colyer, who was to be associated with Mr. Tobey (of our mess) and myself. Prepared two pots of mush. Fire very hard to make burn. Ready before the table (used by second cabin passengers) was ready for us. Hot work. Mush was pronounced the best yet made. Dinner was not so easy got ready. Two large pots of potatoes, one of codfish, and a saucepan of onions was now settled as our bill of fare for dinner. After breakfast a mob meeting was called on the quarter deck and a committee ap1 Rory O'More, by Samuel Lover, published in 1836. A novel depicting the Irish uprisings at the end of the 18th century; it is classified as a runner-up to the best sellers of its decade in America.

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on the Southwestern Trail pointed to wait on Dr. Colyer and enquire why he was not at his post. The committee consisted of Messrs. Thompson, Jones & Conry, reported that Dr. Colyer doubted the authority of the committee, and the society, in enquiring about him. A motion was then made to hold a regular meeting at ten o'clock in the cabin. Meeting was called to order at ten o'clock, president in the chair. The roll called, minutes of the previous meetings read and with a little alteration accepted. A motion was that Colyer produce the case of surgical instruments, for which he had received money from certain members, also to produce, the bill. Dr. Colyer in handing them said in an indignant tone that if the Association proceeded in their course regarding him he would resign all interest whatever in the Association, also making an excuse of illness for his not serving in cooking department, & further said that it was not customery in the army or navy for the physician to cook but was exempt from such duties. He was here told that he had not been appointed, and was not physician of the Association. He said he had no bill of the instruments. After finishing his speech, there were different motions before the Association regarding him, when Mr. Leavy begged leave to read some resolutions, which, after a third reading, a vote was taken by the secretary calling each member's name and he answering 'yes' or no,' which was recorded by a teller duly appointed. The resolutions passed, the vote standing: Ayes oo

Nays 8 Declined voting 4 Whole No. of members : 47 The résultions purported that there was an unenviable notariety connected with the name of Dr. Colyer, & that his actions since connected with the Association were unsufferable, & that he now be dismissed from his office of physician & any connection with the Association. „

Overland to California A motion was then adopted that these resolutions be published in a Galveston paper and a request that 'New York papers please copy.' Dr. Colyer then made another rejoinder and said he addressed the Association not as a member, for that he was not, but as a private individual, that our expulsion was conferring upon him the highest honor in our power, and said that he would bring the matter before a legal tribunal, that he was the regular correspondent of two of the New York papers, and that he would throw a different light upon it from what we did, and charged some of the members with being tattle tales, and avowing he never spoke anything but well of Mr. Brower. He sat down when the meeting adjourned. Dinner delayed on account of meeting. Boiled codfish and potatoes with drawn butter and some onions formed the dinner. General satisfaction. Mush again for supper. Thursday, April 12th. Pleasent day, wind on beam. No sail in sight. Dr. Colyer appeared in his usual Fremont cap, having removed both the gilt star & band, and substituting for the latter a silver band. He is said to be without means whatever. Fred appears in a change of costume, a red shirt and glazed cap, without any coat. Looks like one of the boys. Course W.S. near the Bahama Islands. Lay to during the night. Vessel rolled tremendously. Hard work to keep in berth. Crossed Gulf Stream today. Friday, April 13th. Ship rolling exceedingly. Land seen from the top mast this morning & light sails seen from the same place. Land seen from deck at 9Vz o'clock. Vessel more steady. Four whales seen this morning within fifty of vessel. They were very large spearm whales. Also tropic birds. The lighthouse seen, also the Hole in the Wall on Abaco Island.8 Twelve vessels in sight 2 Great and Little Abaco are two islands about 150 miles east of Florida in the Bahamas group, British West Indies. At the far southeast point of Great Abaco is a natural perforation of the rock known to seamen as "The Hole in the Wall," which is the site of a lighthouse today, as it was in 1849.

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on the Southwestern Trail at noon, one ship the only one so far gaining on us. Time hangs heavily. No books to read. Vessel uncommonly steady. Plum pudding (a treat), called 'Duff,' for dinner. Gaining on the ship that left us this morning. A battle ensued just after tea between two of Smithites, which, however, resulted in nothing dangerous. It began about the butter. Happy company to fight about, ours happens to have just stepped out. Another encounter took place late in the evening between Dr. Colyer & his lady which ending in latter obtaining a sable-colored eye and cut lip. This reminds me of a contest, of words only, though carried to a high pitch, between Dr. Colyer & the doctor of the Smith crowd. "Who shall decide (thought I) when doctors disagree?" I did ascertain in what the doctors' last quarrel originated. The doctor of Smith is styled the 'Irish doctor.' The Smith Company, which purposed proceeding to Mazatlan, now think of going our route, only they say they will be able to travel quicker by substituting pack-mules for our waggons. Saturday, April 14th. Beautiful morning. Sea very calm, quite warm. The wind that's stirring ahead! On the Bahama banks, water extremely clear of a light bluesh color. Soundings 4,3,2% fathoms. Time hangs very heavily. Fish seen about the vessel, but none caught. Boild rice for dinner with sugar, goes hard for the want of a little butter. Wood falling short, have to cook on the ship's galley after them. Molasses given out some time ago, feel its loss since the butter's gone. A dearth for books, read part of Lalla Roorkh.3 Mush for supper sweetened with sugar goes hard. I learn Mr. G. C. Weld, our worthy secratary, is a Methodist missionary to California. Sunday, April 15th. Strong head (S.W.) wind commenced 8 Lalla Rookh, An Oriental Romance, a collection of poems by Thomas Moore, was published in England in 1817 and soon became a best seller of its decade. The impression which Lalla Rookh made on young Robert Eccleston during his journey in 1849 is indicated by references to and quotations from Moore's poetry in later entries in this diary.

Overland to

California

blowing early this morning. Made nothing during the night, anchored about % past seven o'clock. The second Sabbath on board. A great difference between this and last Sabbath, nearly every one sick before, now all well. The sound of the sweet Sabbath bell warns not the heedless nor greets the Christian's ear. Those sounds are hushed. The house of God to us is the boundless canopy of heaven. Rain in copious showers, but of short duration, interspersed the morning. Clear at 9 o'clock. Service by Mr. S. Brown commenced by singing a hymn to air of "the Watcher." Then prayer, another hymn, & a few remarks from the III chapter, 19, 20, and 21 verses of the Acts of the Apostles. The sermon was short, and the service closed by another hymn and a benediction. Wind still blowing strong from the north west. Several ships anchored near us. After dinner Dr. Colyer proposed giving a lecture on the 1st chapter of Geneses which some were eager to hear. He had proceeded but a little when the captain went below and told him that he was the only man in the ship that would have ventured to lecture without permission from him, & also that he had given or requested Mr. G. C. Weld, our worthy secratary, to hold service, and that Dr. C. was interfearing with that arangement. The lecture was broken up at % past 3 o'clock. Mr. Weld (of the Methodist Episcopal Church) began the services by giving out a hymn which was sung by the choir in a becoming manner, after which he made a beautiful prayer, very apropos and touching on the circumstances in which we were placed. The choir then sang another hymn, when he called the attention of his hearers to XX chap., 15th verse of Revelation. He delivered an able and eloquent sermon, fraught with advice to the young men that surrounded him, and pointing out some of their errors. He mentioned swearing, &c., also a disregard for their Bibles and their eternal salvation. He touched on those preaching false doc12

on the Southwestern Trail trines (Doctor Colyer), and expressed his views on the end of the world. He then made a few remarks relative to himself and said that he commenced the study of the ministry when 18 years old, but on arriving at the age of 21, being left some means by the death of some relative and being induced by circumstances, he entered the dry goods jobbing business in Cedar St., N. Y., & after awhile became involved, and losing everything he again turned his attention to the ministry and supported himself by his pen. He was induced to enter this Californian enterprise by a hope of being able to pay off his liabilities. After closing his remarks by hoping that God would crown our efforts with success, he gave out another hymn, after which was sung, the benediction was pronounced, and the audience dispursed. Mr. Weld looks only about 23 or 24 but I learn he has a wife and 3 children. Still at anchor. Wind not abated. Several little birds have been caught on board today, one of which was presented to Mrs. Colyer, who made a temporary cage for it. Monday, April 16th. Wind still ahead, with occasional showers of rain, hopes of the wind getting around to the N. W. Looks squally, wind getting a little around. Anchor raised about 9 o'clock. Again in motion. Great joy, having made no distance since Saturday. Got 1000 miles yet to overcome. Land in sight this afternoon. A grand race between the packet ship Trenton of Bath, Me., and the Benj. R. Milam. The former was much larger and carried twenty sail, having royals & a crosjack yard sail, also a greater number of staysails and gibs. Unfortunately we only carried a flying gib, the others being repairing at this very time. We had in all fourteen sails. She came close to us before all our canvass was spread, but when we had everything up that we were able to put up, it became a more serious business. The excitement was at a high pitch, particularly on our

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Overland to California vessel. The vessels were quite close together. We all went forward to trim our ship, she being laden a little too much aft. Then after a well-contested battle of about an hour the Trenton was proclaimed the victor. Wind abates in a small degree. Great disappointment in consequence. Beautiful sunset apears through broken clouds. Tuesday, April 17th. Two weeks since we left home and still only a little more than half the distance. Nearly calm during the night and the same this morning. Ship heads W. W. S., but is going backwards. The object of anchoring on Sunday defeated. It was our intention there to await good breeze so that we might cross the Gulf Stream, but wind just lasted long enough to carry us into the stream and then disserted us. We are now winding our way towards home, but we must hope for some better change soon. The vessel rolled very much last night. Twenty-eight sails in sight early this morning. The wind breezed up a little this noon and blew about right, but soon began die away again. This afternoon about 3 o'clock it again blew up a little, but came from the wrong quarter and we were obliged to run off our course, running nearly south, although having previously made all the southing necessary. Several dolphins have been seen about the vessel today, but none have been caught. A great scramble took place down in the hold of the vessel for half a barrel of decayed apples, which at this period of our voyage were considered treasures. The light house on Double-headed Shot Keys4 is seen (a little after sundown) from the mast head. Expect to anchor soon. The lighthouse seen two points off lee bow. Wednesday, April 18th. Wind ahead. Everything looks dull. Very warm indeed. A meeting of the Fremont Association held in the cabin. President, &c., present. Mr. Johnson then stated that 4

Part of a chain of low-lying coral keys on the triangular-shaped Salt Key Bank, which rises between Cuba and the southern tip of Florida.

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on the Southwestern Trail the object of the meeting was to enquire whether we should encamp at Galveston or go to some second rate boarding house while we sojourned there. He said he was in favor of the latter, and thought that the same feeling generally pervaded the Association. He gave as his reasons for not encamping that the climate was bad and that we would be so employed in cooking, &c., that we would have no time for looking to our waggons, &c., that they were in order; also that we would have other little business of our own that would employ all our time. He also stated that the Association wished to know the best way to procure mules after arriving there. Mr. Meder then rose and said that the fare with which we now putting up was bad enough, and that, as a civilized man, he was bound as long as he was within the pale of civilization to use those comforts which it procured; that, as for him, he would board at Galveston, if on no other terms than those of procuring it himself. Mr. Weld then made some remarks relative to our fare on board the vessel & thought it was Mr. Brower's duty to see us properly taken care of; that he was determined to board, &c., and closed by putting the question to vote. Mr. Brower was then called upon to express his views, &c., when he said that as he was a stranger to the place he could tell nothing about it till he arrived there. After the withdrawal of the question it was determined to wait till we arrived at Galveston, also the business concerning the purchase of mules for the Association be postponed till our arrival. A letter which was found on the president's desk was then read by the secretary, by the desire of the Association. It was signed Robt. H. Colyer. It asked permission to defend himself against many imputations which were as illiberal as they were false. After considerable debate he was permitted to speak. He made a somewhat eloquent speech which, however, amounted to nothing, when the meeting adjourned.

15

Overland to California Had a bad headache caused by oppressive heat. Made no run today. A king fish (the first fish*caught) was caught by the man who is proceeding to California with his family. Salt Keys5 in sight today. Spoke the ship Oregon of Newcastle from Havre bound for New Orleans. She had been out thirty-seven days. A large number of emigrants on board. They asked us if the California fever raged when we left New York. We told them that the cholera was raging last we heard from their destined port. Thursday, April 19th. Wind still ahead. Fine weather. Came to anchor this morning at 10 o'clock off Double-headed Shot Keys lighthouse. No liklihood of change of wind. Ed is one of the cooks today. I volunteered to help them this morning. Persons in bathing. Freddy's brother greatly frightened while bathing by a fish coming near him. Several sharks seen about the vessel. One hooked, but broke the line. Our potatoes have run out. Employed myself in writing a letter today. It still remains very warm. Great anxiety about the wind. Friday, April 20th. Still at anchor. Wind increased, but still ahead. Hopes of it changing. Wind getting a little around to the north. Got under way about 9 o'clock. Wind nearly north. Great rejoicing. Sailed in company with the ship Huguenot of Providence. Huguenot rather to much for us. We passed a bark (name unknown) about 11 o'clock. Wind blowing quite fresh. Signs of return of seasickness. A great number in their berths. Wind shifted a little. Course which was before due west now W.S.W. in the Gulf Stream. Going about 7 knots pr. hour. Freddy quite under the weather today. Wind again shifted but for the better. A great many oyster stews have been bet on our arrival at Galveston. Saturday, April 21st. Wind remained good all night and all 5

Salt Key (Cay Sal) is one of the largest of the group of tiny coral reef islands on the Cay Sal Bank, off the tip of Florida and about 40 miles north of Cuba.

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on the Southwestern Trail right this morning. Past Havana within about thirty miles at 12 o'clock last night. Course today north of west. Hopes now of getting to Galveston in five or six days. No excitement today. Sunday, April 22nd. Made the best run last night that we have made in the same time since we started. Nearly 10 miles per hour. Wind still good this morning. Shifted right behind us about 9 o'clock this morning, but quite as strong as in the night. A very beautiful day. Service in the morning conducted by Mr. S. Brown. His sermon was from I chap., II Epistle of Peter & from the 16th verse to the end. He explained his views concerning the second advent clearly, & preached altogether a better sermon than on the previous Sabbath.6 Mr. Weld preached in the afternoon an excellent sermon from VI chap., 19, 20 and 21st verses of St. Matthew. He was listened to with profound attention throughout. His sermon was very appropriate and his views clear & comprehensive. A pleasant evening. Monday, April 23rd. Made a good run again last night and wind still good this morning; Sailing directly on our course, off Billes Mouth of the Mississippi. Hopes of getting to Galveston on Wednesday. No sails seen today. Large school of porpoises seen, none caught. Had an excellent dinner of codfish & potatoes, & com bread without butter. Made a raise of some potatoes from the ship. All in good spirits. Freddy well. A quarrel ensued between a colored and a Portugee sailor which ended in the former politely knocking the latter down. Wrote part of a letter this afternoon & engraved part of a seal this morning. Made a change in our mess today. It now stands as on the book: 8 Sylvester Brown and his brother Alfred were "Millerites," or followers of Wm. Miller, the New England farmer-preacher. Miller's doctrine of the immediate return of Christ and impending Day of Judgment gained for him over a million followers during the discouraging 1830's. Later, in 1845, he established the Seventh Day Adventist sect.

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Overland to California 1. Alfred E. Brown 2. Sylvester F. Brown 3. S. W. Tobey 4. Edward Eccleston 5. Robert Eccleston 6. Thos. Holden

MESS N O . 2

Having exchanged Andrew Cornell for Mr. Holden, it is, I think, a good exchange. The water has become abominable, great suffering therefrom. Tuesday, April 24th. Made a good run during the first part of the night, but wind died away towards morning, great disappointment. The wind began to breeze up about o'clock, but died away again after dinner and shifted dead ahead. Steamboat Ohio, bound for New Orleans, past us quite near about 3% o'clock this afternoon. Several immense porpoises were playing about the bow of the vessel. The 2nd mate made a pass at one of them but missed him. Large lot of float wood seen today. Soundings 14 fathoms, about 200 miles from Galveston. No sail seen today. The water light blue color. Course this afternoon S.W.S., should be W.S.W. Wrote letter today. The sailing qualities of our ship not thought to be of the first order. Should have run in with the last 4-day fair wind. The stew betters somewhat in a stew. Mr. Thos. Higbee, a young man belonging to our Association, met with an accident after supper. He was swinging on the plank extended from the quarter-deck to the house when his hand slipt and he fell through the hatch down into the hold, a distance of some fifteen feet. It was at first thought that he had been dangerously hurt, but after an examination had been made he was only found to be badly bruised. Wednesday, April 25th. Doing a poor business in the way of sailing. Went about two knots pr hour. No hopes of ever getting to Galveston. Time hangs heavy, no books to read. Hardest work

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on the Southwestern Trail ever done. No sail seen today. Mr. Higbee comfortable today. A grand fight took place between the two dogs belonging to Mess No. 1. They were, however, parted after a while. Thursday, April 26th. Still calm. Slept very little during the last night, troubled extremely with the prickly heat. Mr. Higbee now about the same, his right ancle is very much bruised and swelled considerably today. He hurt one of his arms though not so much as his leg. He also barked his forehead but luckley not so as to do any damage. In the afternoon it was announced that we were going to have a storm, and it soon began raining. The storm came but it was but a miniature one, but rained very hard. The wind helped us considerably, as we were able to steer nearly in our course at first, and afterwards directly in it. We moved now about seven knots pr hour and hope began to revive. After supper made preparation for cooking tomorrow, it being Mr. Tobey and my turn, assisted by the venurable Dr. Hall. Friday, April 27th. Rose early this morning to cook breakfast. Found contrary to expectation perfect calm (otherwise a dead clam). Gave them fried pork and rice for breakfast. Great inconvenience in cooking. Thompson's dogs got fighting again. Traveling about 3 knots pr hour. Expect to get in tomorrow. The 1st mate and Dr. O'Reilly (otherwise Irish doctor) got into afightthis afternoon. The mate struck the doctorfirst,without provocation. He is a surly unpleasant fellow. The doctor got a black eye, a cut cheek in the rencontre. He apealed to the captain but got abusing him, saying he was incapable of managing the vessel, &c. The passengers took the doctor's part about the fight, but advised him to hold his tongue about the captain. The doctor said he was going to put the mate through when he got on shore. Quarrels occured several times between the doctor & captain during the day. Running about 4 knots pr hour in the afternoon, increased to 6 towards evening. Expect to get off Galveston to-

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Overland to California night. A beautiful evening; a great many slept on deck, which we found preferable to the cabin, as it was so warm. Anchored this evening nine o'clock, within 15 miles of Galveston, which was seen from the mast at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. Great joy. Saturday, April 28. Slept comfortably on deck. There was a very heavy dew fell during the night. It looked this morning as if it had rained quite hard during the night. Was not affected by it. I was awoke by the captain giving orders to have the mate awoke, as their was a fair breeze to run in; this was about five o'clock. We soon got under way going a merry time of about 7 knots pr. hour. All began finding their baggage. Only difficulty was in procuring a pilot. Galveston seen plainly this morning at a distance of about 10 miles, it being very low. Passengers busy fixing up themselves and baggage. Anchored up the bar about eight o'clock waiting for a pilot. Saw two or three small vessels, one of which supposed to be the pilot-boat. Great impatience existing. The doctor & captain got quarreling again. The doctor made a goose of himself. He is a bag of wind. Saw a steamboat coming towards us which proved to be the Portland which runs between Port Lavacca and New Orleans. She came up close to us and the different captains exchanging a few words. Our captain told him to "hitch on,' upon which three hearty cheers were given by the passengers, followed by three more. Had it not been for her, we might possibly be detained till Monday, and at least till late tonight. We went around the bar and were soon alongside the dock.

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From the Gulf to the Nueces River

Fremont Association. Isaac Brower, president, T. I. Johnson, vice [president], G. C. Weld, secretary, T. W. T. Young, treasurer. Arrived in Galveston April 27th, 1849, remained in Galveston one week, during which time we ascertained that mules were scarce and extremely high. Also that the cholera was at St. Antonio and other parts on our road. Held several meetings at the William Tell Hotel, at one of which, after considerable debate, we decided to take the route through Port Lavacca.1 At another, Mr. Brower requested the members to loan him ten dollars apiece, to be secured to them by (if necessary) a lean on a surplus of goods which he had on hand but which could not be disposed of to advantage till we got further from the coast. After considerable deliberation the members, all excepting five, loaned the money, and afterwards several advanced an additional sum to make up for the refusing members. Mr. Brower then returned his thanks, &c. Arrived at Port Lavacca on Sunday evening. Remained on board all night. Arrived at Victoria Friday 11th and left on Friday 25th. Travelled 3 miles. Arrived at Spring Creek on Friday afternoon and left Saturday morning. 1 Port Lavaca, an important mid-nineteenth century seaport on Matagorda Bay. Having regular steamship connections with New York and New Orleans, it was one of the two chief Texas ports used by Califomia-bound Argonauts who disembarked there to begin their overland trek.

21

Overland, to

California

Arrived at Prices Creek, Sat. evening, 12 miles from Spring Creek. Sunday, left the creek at 9 o'clock and reached the encampment before 1 o'clock on Trist Creek, 6 miles from Prices Creek. Monday. Travelled. Fremont Association arrived at the Salada, 4 miles S.E. of San Antonio on June 8th, 1849. Association consisting of 7 messes & 39 members. Mess No. 1, 15 miles behind, having broke the hub of their hind wheel at Sea Willow. 2 Cholera died away, only a few cases in the last week. The Army left about ten days before our arrival, taken the new route surveyed by the Topographical Engineers. The road is reported to b e over 200 miles shorter than the upper road by Fredricksburg. The Army encamped at Leona about 90 miles further on. Our mess, No. 2, consists of four members only, having bought out the rights and titles of Messrs. Tobey & Holden. Carry about five mos. provision. E a c h w a g g o n furnished with 3 yoke of oxen. A member of Mess No. 7 sick, billious fever. The rest all well. T h e above member, Mr. Wilson, determined to return, also Mr. Stuart, who came out under Mr. W's. charge. Money scarce except in Mess No. 7.

Saturday, June 16th. All busy and stirring early this morning making preparations for a start. No. 2 ready first. No. 3 detained, wishing to purchase the fourth yoke of oxen which they are to obtain at Sea Willow. They will follow us. No. 4's oxen strayed away. No. 2 started first at about 8 o'clock. No. 6 followed in a few moments. No. 8 came next, followed by No. 1, leaving No. 3 & 4 on the campground, the latter to look up their oxen. W e arrived in San Antonio a little before noon, transacted our business, obtained some extra provision and started for the campground about a mile above San Antonio. Nos. 2 , 8 , 7 , 1 , 3 & 4 took the road to San Pedro Springs. Although off of the right road, 2 A tributary of the San Antonio River. Eccleston's name for it is a local corruption of Cibolo River. 0 0

on the Southwestern Trail is the only good campground in the vicinity of San Antonio. No. 6 went the other road to Casterville." I believe they intended to move about 3 miles. The vacancy in Mess No. 6 was disposed of this morning by the committee to a gentleman whose name I did not learn. The boys were all busy, some getting their horses shod, some bying a few little conveniences, and others attending to the teams & waggons. Mr. Alonzo A. Perine of Mess No. 1 sold out his share about noon to a gentleman also whose name I did not learn, but he is considered that he will make an efficient member, at least equal to his predecessor, as Mr. Perine was a little inclined to be lazy. It was extremely warm in San Antonio during the day, but no sickness amongst our party. The last of the train did not reach the campground till dark. The springs offer excellent water, the best I have tasted in Texas. They are the head of San Antonio River. Travelled to San Antonio four miles, from San Antonio to the springs one mile, whole distance travelled 5 miles. Sunday, June 17. There was but one tent pitched on the ground last night. No. 7 all slept in the open air, either in hammocks or on the ground. It was a pleasent night although somewhat cool. It was a novel scene this morning to see groups of individuals, still in the arms of Morpheus, lying about in all directions. All seemed perfectly happy, unconscious of past misfortune or future pain. I slept quite comfortable, chosing a more magnificient tapestry to my bed than the waggon under which lay my three messmates. As we did not mount guard, my belt, adorned with pistols, knife, &c., lay at my head, and I felt as secure as I ever did in my life. After arising we washed in the beautiful springs, after which the fires began to blaze in the 3 Castroville, on the Medina River about 25 miles west of San Antonio. Most of the inhabitants were immigrants, mainly Alsatians, sent to colonize the area by Henri de Castro, Texas' minister to France.

23

Overland to California directions of the several waggons which was an indication of the preparation of our morning meal which consisted of bacon, some pilot bread and coffee, which was discussed in a manner worthy of the state of health of the Fremont Association. Mr. Perine, our ex-member, spent last night with us. He leaves us today. I am sorry for himself that he should without just cause turn his back upon a few days of trouble. San Pedro Springs 1 mile N.W. San Antonio. The head of the San Antonio River whichflowsthrough the city and is navigable naturally for many miles. The water burst out from caverns in the rock (limestone). In 1832 these springs (three in number) in two days overflowed the whole of San Antonio, which was inundated for 6 days, for which no cause could be assigned as there was no rain. We determined, notwithstanding it was the Sabbath day, to move on. The causes that prompted us were our recent delays, our wish to overtake the Army, and the desire of being out of the influence of San Antonio, as, notwithstanding the cholera having abated, the place is by no means healthy. At 9 o'clock No. 2 was again ready the first. Mr. Perine took the directions of the families of several of members who live in New York. He then bid us good bye, wishing all of us success, and accompanied by Captain Thompson & Messrs. Jones, he rode off. He leaves early tomorrow morning for Victoria. The train commenced moving at ten o'clock, leaving No. 3 & 7 on the ground, the former wishing to make another ox trade, & the latter to obtain mules. Several showers of rain added to the variety of scene this morning, but it cleared as soon as the train started, promising to be extremely warm. We turned our faces once again towards civilization but it was for a short time; one mile brought us on the road, where, saving one or two small settlements (Leona & Casterville), all ahead was to us an unknown wilderness. 24

on the Southwestern Trail I rode in town this morning to procure an extra king bolt for our waggon which the blacksmith promised to have ready. I obtained it at last and after riding about town a little I proceeded in company with two of our company to find our train. We overtook them as they were moveing three miles from San Antonio. Mr. Tuska of Mess No. 8 is unwell today from a strain received a few days ago lifting a barrel of rice into his waggon. The doctor thinks it is a rupture. My brother lent him his horse to ride as his mess do not seem willing to accommodate him. I was presented this morning by one of our members with part of a watermelon. It was the first I tasted of in Texas and was of fine flavor. After resting about an hour & a half we started on expecting to go as far as the next watering place, five miles.' Mr. Conry of Mess No. 1 complained of a severe headache; he was, however, able to proceed. The roads for today have been level & good, the grazing also was excellent. Colonel Jack Hays5 past us on the road this afternoon. He was only accompanied by one servant. He is quite a pleasent fellow. We arrived at the place we intended to encamp but as it was a wooded place we were afraid we would lose our oxen, so we started to go three miles further on, which we found, before we arrived at the place, it was five instead of three. It was dark before we arrived and it was with difficulty that we could find either wood for our fires or grass for our horses. We found No. 6 encamped here, also another California waggon. We found Colonel Hays here also. He told us that some government teamsters (Mexicans), eight in number, were attacked a couple of days before about forty miles above this, by a party of Indians, and seven of their number killed. We travelled 1

This was probably Leon Creek, about seven miles west of San Antonio.

•John Coffee Hays, colorful Indian fighter, trail blazer, and one-time commander of the Texas Rangers. At the time Eccleston met him he had been appointed U. S. Indian Agent for the Gila River Valley and was on his way to attempt a treaty with the Apaches.

25

Overland to

California

thirteen miles today which is rather more than the standard of a Sabbath days journey. Mr. Brown of our mess just remembered that he had left a box of coffee at San Antonio and as it is valuable article we determined to get it out some way or other. My brother and I then determined to ride back and try and get No. 7 to bring it out for us. Monday, June 18th. We slept last night as we did the preceeding one, around and under our waggon. We arose while yet the moon and stars told that it was scarcely day. This morning was an improvement on any early rising we could have boasted of before. The fires were soon blazing and those in whose charge the oxen were could be seen scattering in search of them in all directions. My brother & I were preparing for our backward journey. Colonel Hays was the guest of Mess No. 6 who were on the ground when he arrived last night, which was some time before we did. After a hasty meal we saddled our horses and started, the oxen having been all found excepting one yoke belonging to Mess No. 1, which, supposing they would soon find them, we left them to take an early start. Colonel Hays left the same time that we started back. He expected to meet us at Leon. We travelled at a good pace and had not proceeded far before we started up three deer, not, however, within gunshot. Two Mexicans, mounted, were all that passed us on the road till we arrived about San Antonio. We arrived in town before half past eight o'clock but could not see any of the members of Mess No. 7 for some time. While we were waiting for them I left my horse at the blacksmith's to be shod. We were about proceeding to their camp at San Pedro Springs when luckily we met their waggon, followed by Messrs. Weld & Power, at the entrance of the town. They promised to bring the box of coffee for us if they took their waggon, which it was probable they would, if not they would sell it for what 26

on the Southwestern Trail they could. I sent a couple of San Antonio papers to my friends in the East, went to the post office, &c. When we turned our backs again on civilization, we travelled on easily and when about seven miles we looked back to take, in all probability, the last view of San Antonio. We stopped at the springs eight miles from town to rest ourselves and more particularly our horses. We found a couple of travellers here, resting. It began raining quite hard and we, not being prepared, took it patiently. Our friends started ahead and were some distance ofiE when we mounted. The shower passed away and cooled the air, making the atmosphere more pleasent. We overtook our friends who we learnt were on their way to San Fernandez on the Rio Grande about 350 miles from St. Antonio. We now travelled in company and left the main road, going by the way of St. Lucas Springs, thinking that perhaps the train might have encamped here as it is the only watering place between their starting point and Castroville. We did not, however, find them but watered our horses and let them graze while we discussed the merits of some excellent coffee and bread prepared by our friends. We were then, they told us, about eight miles from Castroville. We had come some out of our way, about half a mile in distance, but made it up on account of the water. Soon after we started we roused another deer, but he was not within fire. We soon reached the main road and travelled slowly, our animals being jaded by our days journey. Miles now seemed desperate long & we thought we would never reach the place. We saw the prairies on fire some distance away. We reached the camp about an hour and a half after dark, having traveled nearly fortyseven miles since six o'clock. The campground was bare of grass and after travelling about half a mile found no better graying than round the camp. We let our horses loose for the first night, knowing they were too tired to travel much more. 27

Overland to California When we arrived we found everything all right. Some of the boys were getting the tires of their waggon wheels reset, the blacksmiths were going to work all night at them. We eat some Indian cakes, which our worthy cook had prepared, together with some coffee appeased our hunger. We then took our respective places and were soon in the happy state of unconsciousness. The distance travelled by the train wasfifteenmiles, which they performed before 4 o'clock P.M. Medina River. Tuesday, June 19. Arose this morning not quite as bright as usual owing to yesterday's ride. Some of the waggons not ready to move, their tires not completed. We waited till about ten o'clock and then rolled on. While we were waiting I seized the opportunity to write a letter, there being a post office in the place. No. 1 & 8 did not start till near noon. No. 3's tire broke where it was welded, it being poorly done. They took the wheel back to Castroville and will be detained some time. We nooned aboutfivemiles from our starting point, there being no water but good grazing. Our road today was up the mountains though but slightly inclined and quite good. It began to rain about 4 o'clock this afternoon & we had to take it. It stopped raining before we encamped, for which we were quite thankful. We heard a report today that the Army would not leave their encampment at Leona for ten days. This conflicts with what Colonel Hays said, that we should join the Army as soon as possible. We only made ten miles today, not wishing to go fast till No. 3 joined us. The water rather poor at this place, being a muddy pond. Afineplace to lose cattle, there being considerable wood about the place. A few houses here take the name of Que He." Wednesday, June 20. We slept last night in the open air with our wet clothes on. It did not rain during the night as I thought 6 Quihi, a small community of thatched log and mud-plaster cottages about 10 miles from Castroville, established in 1845 by a few Alsatian and German families.

28

on the Southwestern Trail it would. We found ourselves nothing injured this morning by lying with our wet clothes on. We were off early in search of our oxen, which were found after a little search. Our cook gave us an excellent breakfast this morning consisting of coffee, bread, fried pork (fresh), ham & rice and milk, and it need not be said by me that ample justice rewarded his efforts. Our mess was ready to start first this morning but waited for the others. Mr. Van Bibber of Mess 6 lost his horse this morning which he staked near the camp last night. No. 4 left the ground first, followed by 1 then 2 & 8. No. 6 did not leave till some time afterward. No. 3 did not come up last night or this morning as we expected. After we had got along some distance we learned that No. 6 was close behind and No. 3 about 2 miles. We passed a small settlement after going five miles, which contained some dozen lutheran [?] houses. They are made of upright logs of timber from three to six inches through, plastered with mud. The roofs are made of straw. The name of this settlement is Waremburg or something near that.7 We met a corporal's guard today. They said the train had started but the Infantry were still encamped at the head of the Leona. We also met a party of over a dozen Mexicans, mounted and armed, who had been in the pursuit of the Indians that attacked the Mexican teamsters some days since. They were unsuccessful. We passed a part of the train that was attacked. I understand the dead bodies of these unfortunate men lie near the road. We will, I expect, pass the place tomorrow. Mr. Van Bibber obtained his horse by paying five dollars. No doubt the Dutchman stole him and concealed him to obtain the reward. We arrived at the campground before two o'clock, having traveled ten miles. We met one very bad spot just before we camped, being a deep gully full of loose lime stones. The oxen 7

Vandenburg, an Alsatian immigrant settlement, seven miles beyond Quihi.

29

Overland to California were not much pleased with it as their feet suffered materially. After watering our cattle, &c., & taking a hot cup of coffee with its accompaniment, there was a general resting spell. (The name of the stream here is the Hondu.) This getting up early is a great inducement for the functions of nature to seek repose during the day. After a while most of the members were employed in cleaning andfixingtheir arms. No. 3 arrived about two hours after we did, followed soon by two of their members who were encumbered by a huge turkey hanging to each of their saddles. We went in search of our three yoke of oxen just before dark to drive them up to the waggon. We only succeeded in getting two yoke before it grew too dark to see them. We ate a good supper of slapjacks & fresh pig when we received orders that guard would be mounted during the night. A man named Smith that drove oxen for Mess No. 7 arrived at our encampment last night. He said that the above mess had determined to return to New York. This was bad news as they have several things belonging to the Association and members. Mr. Ohengold, who came out with us in the ship, came in company with us today. He has been sick for some time. Thursday, June 21st. We found our cattle after a little search this morning and made an early start. The word was given that we should travel in some order today & that each man should carry his arms. Our mess, together with No. 1, were on guard last night. We watched by lying concealed as much as possible but so that we might have a good view. It is a tedious business to watch in this manner. It is hard enough to keep awake walking out, sitting is all most impossible. We were, however, not troubled by the disturbers. The large waggon with seven yoke of oxen owned by Mr. Jones that has been travelling with us for the last few days, lead the way. No. 3 started soon after, followed by the wagons in this order: No. 1, No. 2, No. 4, No. 8, & No. 6.

30

on the Southwestern Trail Lieutenant O'Brien commanded the advance guard consisting of following gentlemen, Messrs. Sileckson, R. Eccleston, Harrington, Jones & Brooks. The rear guard was commanded by 2nd Lieutenant Crary. The remainder not teamsters guarded their respective waggons. The large waggon stopped, being some distance ahead, which lead us to suppose that some accident had occured, but on arriving at the place (the advance guard) to our surprise we found a large buck lying near the waggon. Those belonging to the waggon we learnt were looking for another that they had shot. They were unsuccessful. The buck weighed near hundred pounds, I judged. They tied him on the waggon, during which time the rest of the train had arrived. All started together and it was a handsome sight, as we advanced some distance, to see the train winding its way along. It made considerable show. Looking as we did upon it, we felt secure. We travelled steadily along, the road being good. Our direction was south of west. We arrived at the pond where we were to noon, about % past eleven. The distance this morning was about seven and half miles; it was extremely warm. We refreshed ourselves & cattle and started on to finish our days labor. We had not gone far before we saw two large rattlesnakes, the largest being about six feet long and as large as a common-sized man's arm in thickness. Some of the members doubt Smith's story about No. 7, supposing that he quarreled with them and told us this that we should not wait for them. The road this afternoon not so good as this morning but the oxen travelled well. It looked much like rain but did not touch us. We found, however, that as we got along that it had rained. This made it good for the oxen's feet. We travelled a little after sunset and arrived at a watering place, though not running water. We were all pretty well fatigued with our days march and after our evening meal retired to our couches. Distance 16 miles. We were told that the 31

Overland to California murdered Mexicans lay on the side of the water about 400 yds. from our encampment. I hardly thought so near as the air was not the least polluted. Friday, June 22. Arose early after a refreshing night's sleep, nothing having disturbed us during the night. All the oxen were soon found, notwithstanding it was a wooded place, excepting one yoke belonging to our mess. We searched high and dry, through thick and thin, but could find no trace of them. We searched till the rest of the train was ready, when some of the other members joined us. The train started, leaving about ten members who had volunteered to help us. Much praise is due them. Mr. Harrington of the volunteers was seen in the distance driving before him the truants, which he had found hid not a great distance from the camp. We fired a few guns to notify those in search that they were found. They soon returned and all being pleased we started on, about half of the gentlemen riding before the waggon and the rest behind. We travelled fast and reached the campground nearly as soon as the last of the train. There was a splendid stream of water near and tolerable good grazing.8 It was 11 o'clock when we got here. Distance 5 miles. We remained here today as there is no water ahead for 14 miles. A party of Missisippians, bound for California on pack mules, passed us this morning. They are going, I hear, to travel with us. We passed today the place where the unfortunate Mexicans met an untimely end. It was about a mile and a half from our last encampment. It was indeed a revolting spectacle. Seven bodies lay around a couple of trees only a few feet from the road. They were covered with brush which their countrymen, who had come to bury them but could not on account of their decay, had thrown around them. They were apparently naked or nearly so & most of them, if not all, scalped. The tree near was pierced by 8

Probably the Sabinal River.

32

on the Southwestern Trail several bullets. The stench was too great to allow of them being closely inspected. Beside them was an ox cart and around lay two whip handles. One of our men picked up the but of a gun which had the brich blown out. It was indeed a sad spectacle to those unaccustomed to such barbarous cruelties. A spectacle "at the mere detail of which the heart sickens and recoils." The circumstances attending this unfortunate affair were as near as I could collect as follows. The victims were Mexican teamsters in the employ of U. S. government, going to Leona with loaded waggons. They were eight in number. Early in the morning the Indians made their appearance, as it were in a friendly manner. They soon left and the teamsters proceeded to hunt for their cattle which, however, the Indians had driven into the woods. When the men in search of the oxen had disappeared, the Indians charged on the rest and murdered them. One of the others being in sight and the only man that was armed, they called to him but he returned but to share their fate. As the others returned they shot them down, one only being able to escape to tell the unwelcome tale. The Indians carried off everything appertaining to the Mexicans. The number of Indians that were engaged in the affair I did not learn, nor whether any of them were killed or not. I think they used bullets altogether, from the signs on the tree and from one or two of the wounds. As our men passed the spot they were moved with indignation, and the fountain of their mercy for these wretches nearly dried up. It may, however, teach us a lesson to be on our guard at all times and seasons. I hope it shall not be my painful duty soon again to notice such a cold-blooded circumstance. After we arrived here we dined, after which, it being excessively hot, there was a general repose. The rest of the day was employed by the respective messes to suit their particular wants. We had a copious shower of rain this afternoon but were some33

Overland to California what prepared for it. I am expecting a good supper as our excellent cook, Mr. Brown, always improves such oppertunities as is afforded this afternoon by our stoppage. He has also some venison to aid him in his efforts. The Missisippians reported that Mess No. 7 were preparing to follow us when they left, which was the day after Smith's departure. We do not know who to believe. We will wait patiently for further information. We are determined to hobble our cattle tonight as they gave us so much trouble this morning. The new member of Mess No. 1 has not yet joined us, but his baggage, &c., was brought out by this mess. After supper I took a splendid bath in the river close by our encampment, and indeed the dusty state of the roads for last few days made it more agreable. When we arrived at this spot in the heat of the day, we fixed our tent fly from the top of the waggon at one end, and the other fastened by pins to the ground, to keep the sun off. It is less trouble than pitching our tent. After tying our horses near the encampment we lay under the fly & bade the world good night. Saturday, June 23.1 awoke last night, I think about midnight, by hearing the rain beating against our covering, but did not mind it for some time till I found I was getting almost afloat. Mr. Crary of Mess No. 6, who had encamped some distance from the rest, came to lodge with us. He slept inside of me and on hearing me make a bustle woke up. He put on his India rubber coat and told me to wait a moment and he would fix me. I put my gun, that lay loaded by my side, into the waggon, and when he said he was ready I closed in when we put our blankets together, amounting to four, one on top the other, and took a fresh start. The night was dreadfully dark. I will illustrate this by saying that the man on guard, whose tent was next ours, came and asked if ours was No. 8. On replying that it was No. 2 in a rainstorm he left, but after hunting about for some time, he returned 34

on the Southwestern Trail and asked the same question. The same reply was given, followed by general laugh. I, after the fresh start, slept well, awaking occasionally. This morning the encampment presented a ludicrous appearance, there not having been but one tent pitched last night and that belonged to the large waggon. But to put them on a par with us while they were sleeping, this morning it blew over. Everybody and everything was wet, and it was with some difficulty we could get our fires burning, but perseverance triumphed and we got our breakfast in spite of the rain. Our tents were now pitched & general exchange of clothes took place. A company of Infantry passed our camp about 9 o'clock and afterwards a company of Dragoons which had been sent in search of the Indians who perpetrated the horrible deed I mentioned yesterday. They were headed by a couple of guides, one of whom is said to be the best guide in Texas. He was a prisoner of the Comanche Indians for fourteen years; also a man who lost a son and nephew in the engagement. The guides lead them on the trail of the Infantry till they arrived here, when they ascertained the fact, and the guides, accompanied by a small guard, returned to seek anew the trail of the Indians. They were gone a couple of hours when they all started for the Rio Blanc tonight and to-morrow they proceed to the U. S. encampment at Leona where they will return with a reinforcement of Dragoons and follow up the trail which is only two miles & a half from our encampment. It is reported that an Indian was found dead in the stream near where the Mexicans lay. We spent part of the day fishing and saw any quantity of good-sized fish but they did not seem to know how to swallow a fish hook. It apparently cleared off before night. We brought our oxen close to our waggon before night and changed there hobbles. They expect, I believe, to travel to-morrow, notwithstanding the Sabbath. 35

Overland to California Sunday, June 24. We slept last night for thefirsttime in a good while in our tent and it is most lucky we did, for it rained last night harder than I have known it to since I came to Texas, & notwithstanding the tent and everything else I got tolerably wet. But I got through the night pretty comfortably after all, for after I would wake every once and a while, I'd sleep twice as fast to make it up. It rained hard enough to swell the river from about fifty feet wide to five hundred. It ran with the velocity of 14 miles per hour. At one time this morning it raised nearly a foot a minute, carrying everything before it. It was a novel sight to most of us. It rained during the first part of the day. Some of No. 3's oxen were discovered to be on the other side of the river. They cannot be got at until the river falls. The river commenced falling a little before noon and fell to a certain point almost as fast as it had risen. After it fell there was any quantity of excellent dry wood left on the ground which we appropriated to our use. After the rain had ceased and the sun shone forth in all her majesty, the boys improved the opportunity by "hanging out their banners on the outward wall." I meant by hanging out their wet clothes, bed clothes, &c., to dry. We had another shower in the afternoon but it was of short duration. However, it gave us the opportunity of exercising our limbs in hustling the clothes, &c., into the tent and then out again. I saddled my horse and went in search of our oxen which took some time, but we had them close to our waggon before it was time to rest our weary limbs. Mr. Brown engaged the members in religious worship this evening, but before his discourse wasfinishedhe was interrupted by a copious shower of rain. His text was the words, "The Soul that sinneth it shall die." It looks some like rain again tonight. Mr. Adams of Mess 6 killed a deer this morning of which we obtained a share. This afternoon Mr. Shergold, who is the guest of No. 8, brought one home. We were thankful for this supply of venison. OR

on the Southwestern Trail Monday, June 25. Last night was another specimen of a wet night, particularly the latter part of it. Mr. A. E. Brown & myself were on guard last night on the first watch, in which, however, we were fortunate enough to escape the rain. I did not sleep very comfortably as I volunteered to take the end bed next to the tent, which being wet and blowing on me, damped my military ardor. Mess No. 3, aided by some other gentlemen, crossed the river in our India rubber boat to search for their cattle. It was our intention to move at 2 o'clock if they should be successful. We improved the day by repacking our waggons, &c. The Fremont Association was called to a meeting this morning at about 9 o'clock, president, vice president in their places. Mr. Davis was then appointed secretary pro tem, Mr. Weld having left the Association in Mess No. 7. The minutes of the last meeting were then read and adopted after amendment by Robert Eccleston to the clause reading that "No. 7 be allowed to go when and where they pleased, on account of sickness," altered to, "that No. 7 be allowed to proceed to San Antonio when they pleased, on account of sickness." This amendment, which was intended by the original permission, was made to meet the case of No. 7 who left the Association without leave, that we might, if we chose, do ourselves the honor of expelling them. The roll was called and twenty-five members answered to their names. Mr. Thompson then rose and stated that the object of the meeting was in part to know whether he was captain or not. He said that he believed that his term had expired, but that as a majority of the members still recognised him he had acted up to this time in that capacity. He added if he was, that Mr. Harrington of Mess 4 had disobeyed orders, & he moved that he be expelled from the Association. The motion was seconded by Mr. T. W. T. Young. There was considerable debate on the subject, in which Messrs. Thompson, Harrington, Leavy, Watson & Wood took part. The 37

Overland to California question was put and resulted in favor of Mr. Harrington by a large majority. Mr. Thompson then offered his resignation, which, however, amounted to nothing as his term had expired. He also showed his unwillingness to serve excepting the members pledged themselves to obey his orders better than heretofore. A motion was then made to go into election of military officers which was seconded & carried. The candidates were Messrs. Thompson, Watson & Van Bibber. Thompson was elected vice [viva] voce by nearly a unanimous vote. Mr. O'Brien was reelected 1st Lieutenant & Mr. Andrew Lingram was elected 2nd do. The other military officers were done away with. Mr. Watson then moved that the 4th of July be kept by the Association in a manner worthy of the day, by reading the Declaration of Independence, having an oration, a patriotic song, &c. Also an extra dinner, the whole Association to sit down to dinner together. After this Mr. Davis was elected secretary. After some other business the meeting adjourned. The gentlemen in search of the oxen were seen on the opposite bank of the river about 3 o'clock. When we inquired we found that they had found but one yoke. Some of them crossed the river in the boat. One trial, however, the boat capsized but she was saved, and those in her. At the next trial, the boat was let go and notwithstanding the efforts of those on shore, some of whom followed it for two miles down the stream, it was lost. Those in her, however, saved themselves. The two left, Messrs. Wood & Lyon, did not get over till nearly dark, and then by stretching a rope across the river and taking their clothes off, came hand over hand till they reached the shore. They had to leave their clothes, arms, &c., & Mr. Wood left his watch on the other side. It was now generally determined upon that we should take an early start to-morrow morning. No. 3 have, I believe, 38

on the Southwestern Trail given up hunting their cattle. We drove our cattle as usual up to our waggon before we retired for the night. Tuesday, June 26. For a wonder it abstained from raining last night and we had good nights rest. All stiring and busy this morning, preparing for a start. The oxen were to be seen in groups standing near their respective waggons while their superiors were demolishing their morning meal. When all was ready I learnt that a comittee of gentlemen were going to make a further search for 3's oxen. Two of No. 3's members and the captain requested a member from each mess to accompany them. All the messes sent a representitive but No. 8, who after various excuses refused to comply with his request. I volunteered to represent our mess which, although containing but 4 members, are determined to lend a helping hand. The party consisted of 6. The following are their names: MESS N O . 3

Mr. R. Eccleston Mr. Harrington Mr. Crary

MESS N O . 1 « « "

4

«. 6

We did not leave the ground till our train was in motion and then, well armed and with the day's provision, we started on our journey. Thefirstdifficulty that we had to encounter we met soon after our start, that was crossing the Sevinal on whose banks we had encamped. The current ran at the rate of about 8 knots per hour & none of us knowing the swimming qualities of our horses we were a little diffident in rushing it. The middle of the stream was about 12 ft. deep. After awhile Mr. Harrington took the lead and arrived safely on the other side, his horse having, however, got into mud on the other bank up to his belly. He fell off in the horse's endeavor to free himself, but was nothing more than

39

Overland to California plastered with mud. I was the next to plunge into the flood. My horse swam well, but as all Spanish horses do, so low as to wet you above the waist. Added to this I leapt from my horse that he might get through the mud the easier, and in so doing I wet myself nearly to the armpits. After a few moments consideration the others determined to push in together. This was the order, Messrs. Lingrem, Evans, Wood & Crary. Evans passed Lingrem and reached the shore first, the others as they started. It is but just to say that Mr. Wood was mounted on an unbroken mule. We were all safely landed but what our condition. Our arms were the first to be examined which we found were nearly all wet. We fired them off and after some little trouble put them in order again. We pulled our boots off and emptied the water out, &c. I put my shirt outside my pantaloons that it might the quicker dry. Mr. Wood found his clothes, &c, which he left the preceeding night, all safe. His watch, notwithstanding he had wound it up, ran down. We were soon mounted and on our winding way over a country uninhabited and visited much oftener by savage bands of Indians and expeditions for the purposes of plundering than by man in a more civilized state for the more honest purpose of trading, &c. Not long after we started we [found] fresh tracks of horses since the rain in the road which were no doubt those of Indians, as no one had passed our camp for two days. We also saw a couple of beds near the road which the Indians had made to keep themselves from the wet ground during the rain. We followed the road; the Indian trail, however, soon left it. We traveled on at the rate of about 4 miles per hour, the road being muddy. After we passed the place where the other yoke were found we were on the lookout for the trail of those we were in search of, which we soon found. Our determination was now to follow up this trail, watching it closely. We again passed the 40

on the Southwestern Trail spot where the unfortunate Mexicans were hurried from time into eternity and found that the water had overflowed the whole place. The skulls and bones were remaining to mark the spot. Also I noticed that from the waist down of a man had the flesh on entire. The waggon had been carried some hundred feet by the flood against a clump of trees. We passed on in silence, keeping close together, as about this place there is every advantage for a surprise. In fact, the trees and bushes are so thick near the road that it would have been easy for the Indians, had they been about, to have shot us all down at once. We followed up the trail and reached the Saco about 16 miles from our starting point. About noon we watered our horses and, as there was no grass on the creek, we went on about a mile and a half to rest our horses & give them a bite. We eat some excellent bread which had been baked & brought along by Mr. Lingram. He had also provided some bacon, which my friends seemed to relish, but as was uncooked, I could'nt go. In a few moments we were in our saddles and on our winding way. We reached the first stream (called a river)8 this side of the last settlement about 4 o'clock, but found it had swollen considerably since we passed it with our waggons. We found on the other side an encampment, a couple of government waggons. They were water-bound and had been there two days. We learnt afterwards that these waggons were in charge of Mr. Moore who had a guard of eight men from a regiment of Infantry. Their were seventeen in all. As we stood on the opposite side considering where to cross, they told us it was not deep but to push in. Mr. Moore, to show us, took off his clothes and commenced wading across. In the middle it was up to his chin and he had as much as he could do to keep his feet. It happened Mr. Evans was acquanted with Moore and another gentleman that accompanied him. After a look about for 9

Hondo Creek, four miles west of Vandenburg.

41

Overland to California the best place to cross, we concluded that where Moore had crossed was it, as it was free from large rocks which was found in shallower places which might injure our horses' legs. Messrs. Crary & Lingrem determined not to cross. The beauties of crossing the Sevinal wore off the excitement, and notwithstanding the former has been to Santa Fe and the other through the Florida war in swamps, &c, they prayed to be excused and paused upon the Rubicon. Mr. Harrington again led, and again I mounted, having got off to drink. The others were after him. I rushed in and Mr. Wood's mule wheeled around. Mr. Evans went on but I passed him before he reached the other side. Mr. Evans had bad luck from some cause or other. His mule kicked and jumped, threw him off, and they both went down. For a time we thought it was something serious, for if the mule in his struggling had kicked him & stunned him he would no doubt have been drowned. He fortunately escaped any injury but was completely soaked. Mr. Wood gave up the idea of swimming on his mule. He got Mr. Moore to lead the mule across and he waded it on the bar. The four of us were now across. I was completely wet to a little above my waist. Both my blankets were wet. Mr. Evans' friends gave him a change of clothes, which made him all right again. We learnt here that the oxen had crossed the river last night about nine o'clock unnecked. When let loose they were well necked together and one of them hobbled. The guard gave the alarm and the whole seventeen rushed out to behold it was an ox that disturbed their rest! The settlement was 4 miles beyond & we pushed on hoping to hear of them their. We still, however, followed their trail which was on the road. As we wound over the hill the straw roof of a Dutch ranche gave us to know that we would soon be their and urging up our wearried animals, as part of the road had been extremely heavy, three miles of which the 42

on the Southwestern Trail horses seldom sunk to less depth in the mud than 6 inches. We soon reached what may be termed a settlement.10 We quickly found out that one of the inhabitants had captured them and that they were about a mile away on the prairie. This good news reanimated us and felt the satisfaction of being rewarded for our labour. We unsaddled our horses, staked them out, and, sending a boy after the truants, we ordered a supper, but it was hard to make them understand. However, by making signs, &c., we soon had supper laid before us on two old chests, consisting of some excellent coffee whose qualities were greatly augmented by some boiled milk. The next thing was roast chicken, two dozen boild eggs, some corn bread, & fresh butter. These were luxuries & all well pleased we sat down to do justice to this meal. In the meantime the oxen were brought up and put in a yard. After we had finished and squared accounts we mounted, and driving the oxen before us, we turned our backs on civilization, our faces towards our train. The moon shone beautifully and aided us much in keeping the oxen on the road. As we were coming down the hill near the encampment of the government waggons, we were met by the sentinel who spoke in stern voice, "Who's there." Mr. Evans answered, "a friend." "All right," being the repsonse, we passed on. We found Crary & Lingrem at the encampment, having waded across. They were surprised at the dispatch with which we concluded our business, as they did not expect us back that night. We now prepared for our night's lodging. My clothing, which had been wet in after part of the day, did not get dry as in the morning my blankets were both ringing wet & not having brought a coat I was in poor condition to rest. I determined, however, to try it and, putting one blanket on the ground, and the other over me I lay down. We crept under the canvass which was open at the sides. I, however, was next the end, Mr. Crary next me and the others scattered around. 10

Vandenburg.

43

Overland to California Wednesday, June 27. I spent last night, as I thought it probable I would, more uncomfortably than any since we left Galveston. About midnight it began to blow a perfect gale with every sign of rain. It blew so hard that we were afraid the canvass would blow down. One of the poles which supported the covering over Mr. Crary & myself was taken down to keep the rain out. This left us in the open air and I began to feel that the circumstances were too much for human nature to stand. We now huddled up our bed clothes, arms, &c., to try and get room under the canvass but before we could do it, as it was so dark, it began to rain heavily. After a while we managed to get a small space, having crawled over men stretchd out full length. Mr. Crary was more fortunate as were also the other gentlemen. He had two coats, one a India rubber, his blankets and other clothes also not being wet as he did [not] swim his horse across as I did. I was very sick, for notwithstanding the canvass it came pouring through like a watering pot. The moments were long and I looked anxiously for morning, which came at last. We were invited to breakfast but eat nothing save a small piece of biscuit. I managed to saddle my horse and we forded the river where Crary & Lingrem had crossed last evening, without weting our feet. It still looked like rain and we caught it before we went far, thick & heavy. We went on and reached the Saco about eight o'clock. We only stopped to drink; though very sick, felt a little better. We reached the Sevinal a little after noon, had traveled over twenty miles over road that was bad before, and since the last rain was much worse. We had now to recross the river and the prospects of again getting wet, particularly to a sick man, were not the most pleasing. I determined, however, to cross and keep as much of my clothes dry as possible. With this view I put my belt with arms, &c, about my neck. I then tied my pants around 44

on the Southwestern Trail the same place. My gun I secured by the strap upon it, again the same place. I put blanket, hoping to be able to keep one dry, on my gun around my neck, and having taken off my boots put my stockings in my hat. Although it would have taken but little more to have choked me, having more confidence in my horse, although unwilling, I urged him in and reached the opposite shore in safety, and having attained my object in keeping my clothes from getting further wet. Mr. Evans again had trouble with his mule who threw him and wheeled round and returned. The next time he did better, all reached the shore safely. We now determined to spend a few moments to noon, and I was glad to have the opportunity to rest. I hung my clothes on bushes to dry thoroughly, and spreading my dry blanket down I lay on part of it and covered myself with the other and got asleep, which was soon disturbed by the words "Saddle up." I put on my clothes but was unable to rise for a few moments. I saddled my horse with difficulty but felt better after we had ridden a little distance. We hoped to overtake our train at the Frio, about 12 miles from the Sevinal, as we thought they would not be able to cross on account of late rains. We found, however, that it had not rained as much here as it did back, by the state of the roads. The oxen being well tired out we went along slowly. The oxen became fractious and it was almost impossible to keep them in the road. It tried our patience and, it becoming dark, the miles seemed desperate long. We at length reached the river but could not find any encampment. We determined to cross and stop all night, to proceed early next morning if we did not find them on the other side. They were not to be found and we proceeded to find a good grazing and a place to hang up for the night. We found it about 2 miles beyond the river." We traveled today 35 miles. We had nothing to eat tonight. 11

The Frio River, a tributary of the Nueces.

45

Overland to California Thursday, June 28th. It looked much like rain when we tied our horses and spread our blankets last night under a mesquite bush, but what could we do, so we lay down and patiently waited for it, which came on about midnight. There was a great scrambling for blankets, &c. I expected to be quite sick on account of being wet, but having felt much better la& night and having dry blankets, &c., to start on, it did not effect me as I expected. We got completely drenched & we made a ludicrous picture at the break of day, all wet to skin, but none of us could keep from laughing heartily at our plight. As soon as it was light enough to see, we saddled up. It ceased to rain. The road was bad and we went along at a moderate gait. We had travelled about two miles when we spied a yoke of oxen, which on approaching we found were a yoke of Mr. Jones' oxen. This was an indication that the camp was not far off. We unhobbled the oxen and drove them before us, and as we ascended the hill we beheld the camp spread before us. The fires were smoking and we found that they had not had breakfast yet. We were therefor just in time. We were welcomed back and all were pleased at the success of our search. After breakfast we started on for the Leona. The roads were heavy and the waggons dragged hard. We reached the headwaters of the Leona two miles from the fort18 about noon. We now determined to push on as there was no grazing. We arrived at the campground early in the afternoon, two miles from the Leona, which, from the quantity of rattlesnakes seen & killed, I had the honor of calling Snake-hill. The train travelled about 8 miles and our party 10. I leamt after I returned that the train reached the Rio Frio the evening of the day we started, which a Fort Inge, about 85 miles west of San Antonio, and a few miles below the head of the Leona River. In 1849 a temporary camp was located here and garrisoned by one company of mounted infantry.

46

on the Southwestern Trail was 12 miles. They crossed the next morning which took them considerable time. Mr. Jones' waggon got stuck but our boys sent him back oxen to pull him out. While some of them were so engaged, most of them without arms, the alarm was given that Indians were in sight. Our boys, however, nothing daunted, went towards them, who, however, turned out to be a party of six Creek Indians, who showed the flag of truce. They were quite friendly and some of them talked English quite well. It appeared that they were from Arkansas, 45 days out, and were on their way to San Fernandez on the Rio Grande in search of some runaway negroes. They said they met the party of Indians that murdered the Mexicans. One of the boys purchased a hair rope which they said belonged to one of that party. They expressed a desire to encamp with the train and travel in company with us, which we did not encourage them to do. They were mounted on good American horses and had pack mules along with them. No. 3 picked up a yoke of oxen and a single one which belonged to the murdered Mexicans. Friday, June 29th. We started rather late this morning, there being some debate whether we should start at all or not, the roads ahead being, as Captain Thompson reported, impassible, but some being over anxious we started and went along quite well, the road being heavy, till we stopped to noon. Soon after we started again we found out the captain's report true. Three yoke were unable to drag the waggons and the order was given from the captain to double team. This caused troubles amongst the messes who should be left. When the captain found this, he told them to get along the best way they could. Our mess and No. 1 concluded to double. Our team was, therefor, put on ahead of theirs and they started. Messes 3 & 6 did the same. We did not expect the team for our waggon back for 3 or 4 hours, although it was then nearly dark, so we collected wood and were 47

Overland to California making preparations for supper when we spied the team coming back through the trees. They had left their waggon about a mile ahead on a part of the road that was a little better. We hitched up to ours and started. The oxen now began to be tired and it was with difficulty we moved. We went about half a mile when we were unable to move a step further. What a prospect was before us of spending the night in this place, where you could not walk without sinking a foot deep at every step. No. 3 passed us while our team was helping No. 1. They got as far as No. l's waggon. Their team went back and No. 6 got up to us. We had, however, a good supper to cheer us up in this horrible place. One of our mess slept in a hammock, two of them in the waggon, and I, geting some limbs of trees, laid them down under a dead mesquite tree to keep the wet off & accompanied by Mr. Young of No. 1, who staid with us, went to sleep. The train scattered all over. Our mess traveled about 7 miles, No. 6 do., No. 1 & 3, % mile more, No. 4 & 8, V2 mile less. Saturday, June 30th. Our oxen were so worn out last night that Mr. Brown thought they would not stray. They went unhobbled. Mr. Young, however, hobbled his. This morning we were all off bright and early in search of them. The mud was too deep to take our horses so we footed it and pleasent work it was. After considerable search we found those belonging to Mess 1, but ours were nowhere to be seen. We travelled all around but could not find them. I returned to see if they were found; my brother also came in soon and Mr. Young after him. We found Mr. Brown frying some pancakes and we determined to eat breakfast and rest a few moments before we sallied forth again. After breakfast we waited a few moments for the elder Mr. Brown to come and report. While we were waiting we endeavoured to get the mud off of our wheels, which was so thick that it was impossible to see the spokes and hardly could see the hubs. Mr. Brown's 48

on the Southwestern Trail voice was heard at some distance driving, as were, oxen. We soon saw him with two yoke of oxen which he had trailed back to where Mr. Jones's waggon was stuck. They had stopped them the night before on their winding way. Had it not been for his stopping them we might of had a pretty chase after them. Mr. Brown left one yoke with him as he said he was coming up. We now learnt that the more you drive an ox in the day the more liable he is to travel at night. Mr. Brown's brother went back to bring the yoke, as we thought it impossible to get along without them. He returned accompanied by Ambrose, Mr. Jones driver, who requested us to send in a few yoke to help him, but we sent back word that we could not till we got through ourselves, whereupon he sent us four yoke of his oxen and the one of ours. We hitched up the ten yoke, the greatest number that had ever been before any of our waggons. We started on and reached the ground where No. 1 spent last night, which was a little better. We now divided the oxen, expecting that five yoke would be able to drag our waggons the rest of the way, but we had not gone far before the ten yoke were again under our waggon. We had to stop every few moments to clean our wheels, which would get so clogged up they would not revolve. At one time the whole ten yoke could not stir the waggon, such was the state of the road. About a mile and a quarter this side of the River Nueces, for that was the point we longed so much to reach, we found the road was excellent, being slightly rolling. We arrived at the campground about 4 o'clock. We watered the oxen and some of us had to return with them. We were all worn out. Mr. YounoO

was unwell and under the circumstances I volunteered, if they would furnish me with a horse, as mine was tired out, I would go. I obtained Mr. Evans' and accompanied by my brother we started driving the ten yoke of oxen. I now considered myself 49

Overland to California quite a teamster, as I believed there were many who had driven oxen some time that could not boast by driving as large a number. We went fast and arrived at the waggon some time before sundown. We hitched up and started off. We found the road had improved even in the short time, but still it was shocking. We came by the light of the moon and got to camp about ten o'clock. We were tired, and after unyoking and hobbling our oxen, and partaking of some supper, we went to our couches to sleep, as our day's work & vexation would warrant, soundly. The other waggons all arrived, excepting No. 4, which was to come next morning. We travelled 4 miles.

50

From the Nueces to the Devils River

Sunday, July 1st. We arose rather late. After breakfast we commenced hunting for the oxen. This being a wooded place we expected some difficulty & we had it, for it was past noon considerably when the last yoke were obtained. I again volunteered my services for our mess, and Mr. Conry of Mess No. 1, to return for Mr. Jones. I set out on foot, it being difficult to manage so large a team with a horse. His waggon was 4 or 5 miles back. We had not gone far before we were overtaken by a party of 4 men & a boy who were down on us before we knew it. They mumbled something and passed us, the boy's horse lagging behind. We supposed they were from the Army camp. The boy's horse gave out and he left him on the road. We discovered the prairie on fire just ahead of us, but could not tell what it meant. We heard a shot ahead of us and, on coming up, we found Mr. Jones & Mr. Sileckson of Mess 4, who were busy cleaning a fine deer which had fallen a victim to the fire we heard in the woods. He was glad to see us and, putting the deer across his horse, rode on to have a little of it cooked, together with some coffee. We soon arrived at the waggon and found the boy busy cooking supper. We rested while Mr. Jones fixed the oxen as he thought proper. We soon were busy eating some of the venison, together with some fritters which were excellent. We started back with fifteen yoke of oxen which were able to pull anything that could be pulled. It was an impossing sight to see this number, and I felt quite proud to be a driver to this team.

51

Overland to California Mr. Jones presented Mr. Conry with one of the hind quarters of the deer & me with the other. We sent them on to the camp by Mr. Sileckson. We got along quite well, the road having greatly improved since yesterday. It was about ten o'clock when we arrived on the ground, but nearly all the boys were up and, as we approached with our mammoth team, stood looking at us. After we had unyoked and hobbled our cattle, we looked for something to eat, which we found done up in style, and retired to our beds. Monday, July 2nd. Captain Thompson this morning, accompanied by 1st Lieutenant O'Brien, made a survey to see whether & where we might cross the river. During the interval I enjoyed a splendid bath in the splendid River Nueces. The party on survey returned and reported that our waggons were a few inches too low. But Mr. Van Bibber found, he said, a place where we could cross without getting our provision wet. No. 1, however, determined to raise there waggon body.. Our mess determined to proceed to the river and then if necessary make the raise. No. 6 started first, No. 4 next, & our waggon next. The river was about a mile off where we were to cross. Mr. A. E. Brown went to the woods to make some ox bows, as this, they said, was the best place where we would find wood suitable. I drove the oxen in his stead. When we got down to the river we found No. 6 had crossed and No. 4 was on this side. At the request of Colonel Watson, I hitched up two yoke of our oxen before their team, and we started, although unwell. I rushed into the water, which was up nearly to my waist. The oxen were hard to keep in their places, running down with the stream. We crossed, however, safely, but the bank being very steep and the mud deep it was a something of a job, but we brought them up right. We went back for our waggon, which we brought through in the same way. The other waggons crossed the ford where the water was 52

on the Southwestern Trail deeper. They did not cross as easily as those that crossed above them. We filled our water casks and were all across a little after noon. The word was given to stop a short while. We let the oxen go, although there was poor grazing about. We started on about 2 o'clock and commenced gradually ascending the mountains, although we seemed still in a valley, as there were, on either side of us, higher ridges. The 1st part of the road was good, but the latter part was irregular rocks, partially covered with soft clay. After travelling seven miles from the river, we came to some water in the grass, which was to be our campground for the night. Tuesday, July 3rd. We left the ground rather later than we should for the benefit of our oxen in warm weather. The scenery today was charming, although there was not much wooded country to be seen. We reached the headwaters of the Jogoloette [?] (pronounced Wackalotae) or Turkey Creek about 1 o'clock. We found that the Army had encamped here, as well as every place where the advantages of good water & grazing were to be had. This made it bad for us. After a few moments stoppage, we proceeded to a mile beyond, where there was a large pond of water and better grazing. After we arrived on the ground, the general enquiry seemed to be whether or not we were to remain here to spend the 4th of July. Nothing definite was known and a part seemed determined to proceed, while the other part were as much determined if possible to remain. After supper a meeting was called by the two Mr. Browns of our mess, and some others who were strenuous in their exertions to move. At a little past eight o'clock the meeting was called, the president, vice president, & other officers in their places, a little over thirty members present. The reading of minutes of the last meeting dispensed with. Mr. A. E. Brown then rose and moved a reconsideration of the motion passed at a former meeting to keep the 53

Overland to California 4th of July, &c. Accordingly much debate ensued. Mr. B.'s colleagues were Messrs. Adams, O'Brien & Chapman, who were answered by Messrs. Watson, Leavy, Harrington & Robt. Eccleston. The arguments of the former were our recent delays, the chances of wet weather & our duty to improve the day when possible, the likelihood of our losing our cattle, &c. Their objections were answered by their opponents, 1st, that we had received reliable information that, on account of obstructions, the Army could not cross the (Divils) River Styx untill the 15th of July the soonest, and how much longer it would be there was not telling, & this river being only about 50 miles off, we would be obliged there; 2nd, that our cattle were not more likely to stray here than at another place. But our grand argument was that there was not a dissenting voice at the former meeting, and nothing had transpired that should alter our determination. The question was called for and resulted in a majority of five in favor of honoring the day. Some of the members who had been confident of a different issue became enraged and threatened to proceed, right or wrong. We reminded them that they had called the meeting and that they should be the last to grumble, but nothing could pacify them. We now knew that it would not be general, which would mar much of sport we anticipated. I, however, felt rejoiced at our victory, and determined to use my endeavours to celebrate the day in a befitting manner. Much praise is due Colonel Watson for his exertions on this occasion. July 4th, 1849. This day, sacred in the memory of every patriot, broke upon us in a style of befitting grandeur. I was awakened before sunrise by the firing of a salute in honor of the day, by some of the company. Our flag floated proudly upon the pleasent breeze, and beneath her ample folds well might we feel secure. Quick would the thoughts run back upon this day as it had been spent before and would linger with delight upon 54

on the Southwestern Trail the pleasures of the past. It was a pleasing thought that, while our families & friends were honoring the day at their respective residences, we, although out of the pale of civilization, were engaged in the same honorable pursuit. The morning passed quickly. Our cook did not rise to prepare our breakfast &, when I prepared it, would not partake of it. Both he & his brother acted unbecomingly, for after making every effort to avert the issue, when unsuccessful it would have been a more charitable, a more manly, part to have cheerfully joined with us. But they, as some others, tried to mar any amusement we attempted. Before noon, in Colonel Watson's tent (all of whom were patriotic), some of the members assembled and with a few songs and a little chat passed pleasently a few hours. We then adjourned till about 4 o'clock when the regular exercises would begin. The general dinner was defeated by those opposed to us & every mess dined by themselves. Mr. Brown feeling in little or no better humor, I cooked dinner, which consisted of boiled rice. We fastened 3 of our tent flys together and fastening each end to a waggon, we supported the centre by two sets of tent poles, which gave us a shade of about 50 ft x 12. At the appointed time we assembled. Mr. Brown was chosen president & Mr. O'Brien secretary. After a very earnest solicitation, Mr. A. E. Brown reluctantly made a prayer, after which the Declaration of Independence was read in an able manner by Colonel Watson. Mr. Leavy then delivered a suitable oration & the 'Star Spangled Banner' was then sung by Mr. Conry. The regular performance being over, volunteers were called for. Mr. Monell sung a hymn appropriate to the occasion, which was received with applause. Colonel Watson gave us a comic song, which brought forth bursts of laughter. Robt. Eccleston recited the 'Battle of Waterloo,' after some singing, recitations, &c. The wiskey was freely disposed of and all partook excepting myself,

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who, although it was a memorable occasion, could not break through my resolution. All seemed pleased, and, had not some few become too patriotic in spiritual line, all would have "went merry as a marriage bell." After supper w e had another little meeting by the light of the moon. Among the best, Colonel Watson recited 'Rollo's address to the Peruvians' in a masterly style. Mr. Conry's Othello's address to the senate was excellent. These and a few others, together with some good songs, closed the performance & we all retired for the night, having resolved that w e would make u p this day's delay b y extra exertion hereafter. Although I say it myself, Colonel Watson, for whose judgment I have a profound respect, declared that the 'Battle of Waterloo' was the masterpiece of the day. T h e moon still smiling upon us as we retired, all seemingly pleased with our poor efforts to celebrate a day which, it is to b e hoped, w e never b e ashamed of honoring. I am sorry to say that Mr. Edward's mule which he had packed, died this afternoon from some unknown cause—supposed to have eaten something poisonous. Thursday, July 5th. W e were all aroused before 4 o'clock this morning which was to commence a new era in early rising. All the oxen were found as soon as it was light enough to see them, excepting one yoke belonging to No. 4. Although the oxen were not found, which delayed us some, the train was in motion a few minutes past 6 o'clock, leaving No. 4 on the ground. After travelling a short distance, No. 3 sent them back a yoke, that they might proceed, leaving the hunters to follow. W e travelled steadily along till w e arrived at a watering place, a pond 8 miles from our starting point. No. 4 came u p just as we were preparing to start. W e commenced our march about 2 o'clock, and reached Elm Creek a little after sunset, having travelled about 15 miles.

Friday, July 6th. W e kept up the early rising and eat our break-

56

on the Southwestern Trail fast, packed our waggon, &c, by the light of the moon. As soon as we could see sufficiently we brought our oxen in, and were on our winding way at about % past five o'clock. Our road was good and our oxen travelled well, it being cool. We passed a fire in the middle of the road, still burning, which we first supposed to be that of an Indian encampment, but those more used to the ways and means of prairie life discovered that waggons had passed over the road lately, which we found to be a fact, for after travelling 8 miles we came to Los Mores Creek.1 We found seven or eight Mexican waggons, accompanied by escort of 8 U. S. soldiers, besides the Mexican teamsters, encamped here. They were from the Rio Grande (which is only about 12 miles in a direct line from this place, and 25 by the road) laden with corn for the U. S. Army. They had contracted to bring it to this place and refused to go any further, their oxen having given out, &c., notwithstanding the Army being less than 30 miles distant.8 We watered our cattle, which was a difficult job, and made up our minds to lay over two or three hours. We have heard that there was water to be found about 6 miles ahead, which, being good news, we determined to reach before night. We reached our destination just at sunset. The distance we found to be much nearer 8 than 6 miles. There was a nice stream but only tolerable grazing.8 Saturday, July 7th. Our oxen were not found with as much care as usual although we up as bright and early as the two preceeding mornings. Notwithstanding, our train started at a % before 7 o'clock. The road was excellent, the best we have trav1 Las Moras Creek, a tributary of the Rio Grande. At its head one of the main Indian trails into Mexico crossed the emigrant road and here famous Fort Clark was established in 1852.

' The Army's supply train, at the rear of the El Paso expeditionary force, was then encamped on the San Felipe. 8

Probably Piedra Pinta (Painted Rock) Creek, a tributary of the Rio Grande.

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elled over since we started. A proof of this is that we made the campground, said to be twelve miles, before 11 o'clock, or having travelled 12 miles in the short time of 4 hours. I could not believe that we had come to the place, having made it in so short a time. But we are improving. The little stream that flows serpentine through beautiful rows of the greenest grass is called Grass Creek, an appropriate name.4 The boys found here a couple of oxen, one of them hobbled, both, however, very poor. Also across the creek was a waggon which, I expect, belonged to the government, but the tires were loose and it was in a bad condition. By the dust flying we discovered a good way off on a side hill, a horse, no doubt in the agonies of death. Soon after, the appearance of a multitude of turkey buzzards, who came to do the last honors to what remained, told us that all was over. The woods a short distance off were on fire and the smoke enveloped everything from our view in that direction, but wind was favorable for us. This afternoon about ten teamsters, headed by Thompson, the express rider, stopped awhile at our encampment. They were going to make the Mexicans bring the corn up to the Army, or else they had orders to take charge of the waggons themselves. They were all mounted, with one exception, on mules. Thompson also brought us word that our captain desired us to roll on in the morning. There arose much dispute among the members as they had nearly all made up their minds to stay here over the Sabbath, there being an excellent range for cattle, good grazing and good water. A meeting was called after supper and a debate insued, some of the members insisting that the Association had no authority to act in this matter, that it was the military officers alone who determined when we started. Others urged that the 4

Possibly the Zoquete, or its branch, Maverick's Creek.

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on the Southwestern Trail order, being only verbal and not direct to the 1st lieutenant, was not binding, and besides that our constitution forbid moving on the Sabbath except in case of necessity. Another thing that influenced our staying was that the party in search of No. 4's oxen having not arrived, and not having much provision, it became us to think of them. The voice of the meeting was in favor of stopping, but some of the members were not satisfied till Lieutenant O'Brien gave his orders to stay. We all now prepared for a good night's rest. We brought our cattle up to the waggons and retired. Sunday, July 8th. Unexpectedly I was aroused and called on guard this morning at 3 o'clock. Occasioned by our not starting, we had to have a watch extra. This spoiled my good night's rest which I expected, however having to submit. Again lay down when 5 o'clock came, the hour that my watch expired. This was the first Sabbath that we had rested on in some time. A man dressed in U. S. uniform came into camp this morning. He had a regulation musket on his shoulder. He first said he had been hunting and had got lost & that there was another man still lost. He asked for something to eat, which we gave him, and after some conversation found he was a deserter, & that the other man was a short distance off awaiting his return. They left the camp while it was encamped on the ground that we then occupied and made tracks for the Rio Grande, about 15 miles distant, but they were unable to cross except at Eagle Pass, where a sentry is stationed. They were now going to San Antonio. We tried to persuade him to return, having served a little more than half his time out, which was five years. He had a dollar and a half with which he wished to procure some provision. He said that he had been illy used and that he would have served still had it been otherwise. The messes made up a contribution in the way of bacon, biscuit, &c, & sent him on his way rejoicing, although

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Overland, to California perhaps we were not very patriotic in helping those who had deserted the American flag. Mr. Brown engaged the members in religious exercises this morning, after which the cooks prepared dinner. There began to be some talk of moving across the creek and going two or three miles to a watering place this evening. Some were opposed but we got up our cattle, sun two hours high, and made a preparation to start. We crossed the creek without any difficulty, but the road was not very good, being for a good distance loose pebbles like the bed of a river. We arrived on the ground just at sunset, a distance of about 3 miles. No. 4 waited on the last campground till the ox hunters returned. Monday, July 9th. We were awaked last night, or rather this morning, by the return of the teamsters that passed us on Saturday afternoon. They reported that the boys had returned from the chase but that nothing had been seen of the oxen. We waited some time for No. 4 and started after 7 o'clock. Lieutenant O'Brien wished as many as could to put on new redflannelshirts and our uniform caps. The former article was in great demand as most of the boys had soiled theirs. We expected to have to travel something less than 12 miles to reach the Army. The road was good but exceedingly dusty. Lieut. O'Brien rode ahead and when he returned told us that the camp was down in the valley not more than quarter of a mile off, while we expected it was over the hill which we saw from our road. We found better grazing on the hill, which was an indication that it could not be very far off. We halted at our place, directed by Captain Thompson who was on the ground before noon. We now learnt that the main body of the Army had started from here and that these remaining were mostly teamsters.5 We also heard that there were no obstructions for 100 miles to the 5

Civilian employees hired by the Army to drive the wagons in the supply trains.

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on the Southwestern Trail River Pecos where the Army were going to cross with a ferryboat. Such is the character of the information we receive. The afternoon was spent in fixing the waggons, &c. No. 6 wished to have their tires reset, for which they were asked two dollars a wheel. When they went back they would not do it for less than three dollars and then it was necessary to obtain an order from the commanding officer. They concluded to wedge them up themselves rather than pay such an exhorbitant price. The prices for provision, &c., are exceedingly moderate, for instance: Coffee per lb. Sugar " " Whiskey Cotton shirts

.37i/2 .37i/2 5.00 per gall 3.00 a piece

& everything else in proportion. It was a novel sight to see such droves of oxen & mules as were to be seen here. We here met a Mr. Phillips & his wife who came out in the B. R. Milam with us. They have a small waggon, much resembling the milk waggons of the north, before which two mules are driven by our heroine. Their store of provision seemed exceedingly scanty, but I believe they have the happy nack of living on others without money or aught else to bless themselves with. They intend to travel behind the train they are now with. The river here is not much more than a stream, but nevertheless [?] is the San Felipe. No. 4 arrived here about an hour after we did. The ox hunters were unsuccessful & it becomes my painful duty to cronicle the loss of the 1st yoke of cattle & hope that the future notices of such losses shall be "like angels' visits, few and far between." Tuesday, July 10th. We started from the campground this morning at 6% o'clock and crossed the river. No. 6, 2, 4, & 1 crossed at the road, the others took a new crossing which I believe was much the best. Unfortunately No. 1 broke their king 61

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bolt in crossing, but had one to replace it. The train, however, was detained an hour and it was o'clock before we got properly started in this order, No. 9 (Jones' waggon), No. 3, 2, 4, 8, 1 & 6. We understand that we were to encamp at a pond 8 miles distant. The road was fair but not as good as we have been travelling over for the last few days. The dust was very unpleasent. We found no water pond of any description at 8 miles. We travelled on through a gorge between and came to the River Styx, or as it is most commonly called, Devils River. There was no pasture here at all and our waggons stood directly in the road. On one side there was a perpendicular elevation of rocks, some 40 ft. high, on the other side a steep sloping bank. The only good thing that can be said of this place is that we had plenty of good water to drink and a fine place to bathe. The Devils River at this place rims over a solid bed of rock, and the water is from 1 to 2 feet deep and so clear that the smallest thing can be seen at the bottom. It is over a 100 ft. across as the road runs. The opposite bank is somewhat steep but the descent on this side easy. Mr. Brown, our cook, being sick, I prepared our lunch and filled his place. We found here a U. S. mule lying in the road between our waggons and the river in a most pitiable condition. It was groaning and had been lying in this situation since the Army passed yesterday morning. I was, however, although few others thought it worthwhile, determined to relieve him if possible. I got him out of the hole he had made by kicking and poured some water with a dipper into his mouth, which he drank with avidity. I also poured some on his head. He seemed somewhat relieved, and with the help of one or two others, made him sit up. He now drank out of the pail and on offering him grass he eat it. We now got ropes under him and five of us lifted him up, which was indeed a ludicrous scene. It would have been a rich harvest for 62

on the Southwestern Trail an Elton. The poor animal had been so cramped with lying that it was unable to stand. We rubbed him to produce circulation of the blood. We lead him to a better place and he stood alone. I gathered some grass, which was a scarce article, and fed him. He eat it as if hungry. We left him standing but he fell down soon afterwards. I came again towards evening and gave him water and mixture of water and Indian meal, neither of which he now relished. I bathed his joints that were swollen, and, putting some dry grass under his head, left him for the night. I had two delightful bathes in the river in the course of the afternoon. I washed my shirt and stockings and went without either (cutting a nice figure as I wear no coat) till they dried, when I replaced them. One of the boys shot an aligator garr [?] but, notwithstanding their efforts, caught no other fish. No. 8 got the dry grass & brush on fire, which one time threatened our waggons, but it was extinguished before any damage was done. As I looked up above us on the high bluff of rock I thought it would be a nice place for Indians to shoot down on us, besides setting the dry grass on fire. We could not escape by going forward on account of the river; on the left the rocks would prevent us, water again on our right. If they had known our condition they could have made sad havoc amongst us. Wednesday, July 11th. I arose at 3 o'clock this morning to prepare breakfast, which was cooked and eaten long before the dawn of day. As soon as it was light enough to see I went to look at my poor mule. He was still alive but I found he was very cold. He made an attempt to eat some grass I gathered for him. We got our oxen up, packed our waggon and was ready, the 1st to start. We, however, waited in the place we occupied. Not so with No. 6, for when they were ready they passed us and took the lead. I then drove up followed by No. 1. No. 3's oxen were not all found when we crossed the river, but we sent a deputation

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Overland to California to help look for them. My brother represented our mess. We waited for No. 3 about half an hour and then started on. After a while we could see them coming after us. After passing through a rocky country for about 3 miles, we came to water in a bed of rock. We here met a U. S. avalanche6 with 4 horses, escorted by some cavalry. They said the Army was 15 miles distant and that we would find water 10 miles. They made the usual soldier s request for whiskey. They did not succeed, however, in obtaining it. We here visited some caves in the rocks of considerable extent, in which were found Indian drawings, &c., such as buffalos, men. They were colored.7 After passing this place we got on to the prairie again. The road was pretty good but the dust was insufferable. I drove our team a considerable part of the way. We nooned for about an hour, but there was no water and poor grass. No. 1 set the prairie onfire,which blazed gallantly. Our waggons were one time in danger, the wind being high. Happily there was a dry brook which stayed its progress, which, united with our efforts, entirely subdued it. Had it not been put out as it was, it is most probable it would have only been stopped by the Devils River, some 40 miles ahead. We again got on the way and had a most uncomfortable march. The sun was extremely warm. The wind blew the dust, aided by the oxen's feet and the rolling of the waggons, all over us. The distance seemed tremendous, and when we arrived at the camp6 Apparently a type of wagon used by the Army. Possibly Eccleston misunderstood and recorded "Avalanche" for ambulance. The Army frequently used a covered ambulance wagon for transporting prisoners, or, upon occasions, as a personal vehicle for officers or visiting dignitaries. 1 These and similar painted caves in this area were the former residences of a people known as the West Texas Cave Dwellers, possibly akin to the Basket Makers of Arizona and New Mexico. Artifacts discovered in the caves indicate a fairly high degree of culture, and reed pipes suggest that these people may have been among the world's first smokers. Apparently they declined and disappeared as a group, but nothing has been found whioh reveals with any certainty what finally became of them.

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on the Southwestern Trail ground about sundown we were so completely covered with dust as to be unable to recognise each other. Their was here a small spring of water, and after travelling about a mile with our cattle they hardly got a taste, the ponds having dried up. After getting about an inch and a half of dirt off, we eat our evening meal, and retired, first having given our cattle some water with a pail out of the spring, with unpleasent assurance that we would be called upon guard duty before the morning. The Army are 2% miles distant. We will remain here tomorrow. Distance 15 miles. Thursday, July 12th. After my guard was over this morning at 5 o'clock, I again went to my couch to try once more. I was awakened by the call to breakfast. After hunting up our cattle we went to work to dig a resevoir for our cattle to drink out of. We found water every place we dug & success attended our efforts. Captain Thompson & Mr. Bratton went to enquire when we would be able to proceed & all the information possible about the route. After employing myself with necessary business, I amused myself by reading "As you like it" out of a book I found at the last encampment, which contains one or two other of Shakespeare's & some of other authors. Colonel Hays visited us this morning. His encampment is about lMs miles north of us. He helped us dig our springs, which take the name of Big Drunk Springs from the fact that the Californians who discovered them on the 4th of July got gloriously drunk.8 Colonel Hays' rifle is a v splendid piece, mounted with solid gold & silver & cost upwards of $600. It was made a present to him.9 8 This camp site has also been called Palo Blanco Springs, Independence Hill, Big Drunk Camp, and Cherry Springs.

° This rifle may have been the one given to Hays by the Society for the Protection of German Immigrants in Texas, in gratitude for his aid in 1844 to a party of Henri Castro's sick and penniless colonists. See Rudolph L. Biesele, The History of the German Settlements in Texas, 1831-1861 (Austin, 1930), p. 107.

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Overland to California A good many mules have strayed from the camp of the Army, I suppose in consequence of not having sufficient water. They have only springs like ours which are entirely inadequate to the wants of their cattle. They have been searching all around for water holes but there are none about. The Devils River at the nearest point is quite close, but where the roads cross it, some 19 miles distant, which we will have to travel without water. After we leave the river we will, they say, have to go 35 miles without this precious article. A man returning from the Engineers today unarmed was overtaken by an Indian. He was resting his horse, having the bridle off, when the Indian approached, &, although he expressed himself friendly, & threw down his weapons, still the man jumped on his horse, not waiting to bridle him, and galloped off full speed. When on the hill he looked back and saw he was so affrighted he did not know whether ten, twenty, or two hundred Indians. Different reports are about concerning the Indians. One is that on every occasion that they have been seen they have expressed friendship; another is that they have given the Engineers to understand that they and the train may pursue their course as far as the Rio Pecos, but no further. We have had invitations to join the other Californian companies that are with the advanced train. An order was issued by Major Van Horn that any persons, either belonging to his command or to the California companies, setting the prairie on fire should be severely punished. Above 100 acres of the grass upon the hill just ahead of us was burnt by the soldiers while here. The Avalanche returned this afternoon with three deserters. Friday, July 13th. Last night I had a most refreshing sleep and on awaking before it was necessary to rise, as we do not travel today, I lay pleasently reading Shakespeare. After breakfast we drove our cattle to the spring & watered our horses. I employed the morning by making a powder horn, of which I am quite 66

on the Southwestern Trail proud. I continued reading during the hottest part of the day, lying under the waggon in agonizing relief. We had a super extra dinner today of "Duff," called by us Miss Duffy. We were mightily particular not to let any of our friends know, as we felt quite capable of conducting this young lady to her destination. We heard today that the Californians move next Sunday. We had a copious shower of rain this afternoon which refreshed the air. The cattle seemed well pleased with it. We heard that the commanding officer was going to send 50 men down to dig a large resevoir to water their cattle at our springs. We were determined to oppose of such intrusion & the messenger went back. I expect he reported this as the next thing we heard was that they were digging up to the camp for water. I sent a letter to day by the express that I wrote home to my cousin on the Sevinal. Saturday, July 14th. Still on the stay-still order which is a very uncomfortable one when we have the long journey that is before us to accomplish. I amused myself by reading while it was raining, after which I spent some time in cleaning my arms, &c. Nothing exciting took place today worth relating. We had a few showers of rain. We received today the sad intelligence of the death of Ex-President Polk.10 Sunday, July 15th. It rained nearly all night which, however, did not disturb my slumber. This rain is quite providential. It not only lays the dust but makes the grass more palatable, besides leaving pools of water which we greatly need in this part of the country. Half a dozen of the boys set out today, some of them to go as far as the Devils River and the rest to proceed to the Pecos to ascertain something definite about the road. They, however, returned, having only gone as far as the Army encampment, hearing that the Engineers had just left and that it would be 10 Army express riders, such as the Mr. Thompson mentioned several times in Eccleston's diary, carried mail and dispatches to and from the El Paso expeditionary force.

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Overland to California impossible for us to move yet. About the same number went on a bear hunt in the morning but the rain scattered the party and they returned without the oil which we were promising ourselves, as hair oil is quite scarce here. Mr. Brown preached a sermon after supper, after which wasfinished,we retired our mess, however, excepting my brother & part of No. 1, having received orders to be on guard at our respective hours. Monday, July 16th. It rained but little during the night, and I escaped that little while on guard this morning. The moon arose a little before 3 o'clock, but was in its last stages and sometimes hid, at that, by dark clouds. I almost scared the Mexican teamster belonging to Jones' waggon, who, being called up during the night, I exclaimed in a stern voice "who's there." He answered somewhat frightened, "me sir," to which was added a long lingo in Spanish. I returned to my bed after daylight and slept till breakfast time, after which I went out in search of our cattle and my horse. I brought my horse to water and left the cattle till their feelings should prompt them to search for it. Two yoke came in after a while, but the others not coming, we went out to search for them, which after considerable trouble we found lying down, concealed in some bushes not very far from camp. We expected to start this afternoon, but word came that there was no use of it yet. After supper a number of the members collected around Colonel Watson's tent, and we had some singing, recitations, &c., which made the evening pass quite pleasently. After which we retired to our couches. The government sent down, claimed, & took away the 3 oxen that No. 3 found, one yoke of which No. 4 had made arrangements with the former mess to use till we got to the Pass. Some of the boys went to the commanding officer but he said they had witnesses that they had purchased them, although they were not branded U. S. Tuesday, July 17th. Our oxen were all in sight this morning,

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which saved us the trouble of hunting for them. Colonel Hays moved his encampment to this place, has now set about digging another resevoir. He has about 200 head of cattle which are contracted for by government. Major Van Horn sent some cattle down and drank up all his water, an extremely kind act. They also threatened to do the same with our springs. Some of our party, happening to be at their encampment at the time, one of them remarked to the officer that nothing short of a Company of Infantry and two field pieces could do it. About 11 o'clock a meeting was called to know the opinion of the meeting as to starting. Captain Thompson arose and said that, although he had authority to order the Association to start or remain, yet that he would like much to hear their opinion on the subject. He said that all the information he could obtain was that the Californian Company ahead of us had started, but not the Army, & that he & Lieutenant O'Brien had seen both Major Van Horn & Captain Boorman" this morning, and that they could give no encouragement to proceed; that they expected information that evening from the Engineers. He continued that he had heard that there was no grass of any account, where it was probable we would have to stop, & concluded by saying that he wished to push on as much as any man, but he would be sorry to bring our cattle & horses where they would not find pasture. There was but little debate, but some expressed their wishes that a party should go and see something for ourselves, but the general excuse was sore-backed horses. Some volunteered to go afoot. The question was put and the Association decided that we should remain here untill we heard further information. As soon as this was passed, Captain Thompson and Mr. Bratn Almost certainly a reference to Brevet Captain Andrew W. Bowman, Regimental Quartermaster and Commissary of Subsistence for the Third Infantry Regiment at the time of the El Paso expedition.

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Overland to California ton volunteered to proceed and see for themselves. They were afterwards joind by Mr. Edwards, & Mr. Wood wished to go, but, as he was not very well, the rest persuaded him to stay behind. He had his mule saddled and was ready to start. They took a couple of days' provision & off they went. There was much satisfaction manifested at this move. We heard since we came here (how true it is I know not) something further about the mess that we left at San Antonio and that were to follow us. It was that William Power, who was treasurer of the five members of the mess, all of whom were from Pennsylvania, together with Mr. Weld, the Methodist preacher who disposed of the goods which partly belonged to & which were in charge of Mr. Seymour, who returned on account of ill health from Victoria, that these two had set out for New Orleans, that the former had taken all the money of his five friends, together with that which they had obtained for the things they sold—waggon, oxen, &c., & that Mr. Weld had given his note for five hundred dollars on his banker in New York to Louis & Groesbeck, the house with whom he did most of Mr. Seymour's business. I did not learn whether he remitted Mr. S. the proceeds of his sales or whether this was put in his pocket. But thus they started for New Orleans to go from thence to Chagres & San Francisco. Powers left his brother & Messrs. Willson (who had been sick), Stuart & Sloane without scarcely a penny. Wilson & Stuart were clerking it in Groesbeck's store & the younger Power doing something else. Sloan was trying to get back home & so the matter stands. Mr. Adams shot a large panther this afternoon and brought his skin home. He shot him within a few steps. Wednesday, July 18. Our oxen were found easily, as usual most of them coming up to the spring themselves for water. There was no excitement this morning in the camp. We had an extra dinner today, consisting of duff, before which, however, Captain 70

on the Southwestern Trail Thompson & Mr. Bratton returned & gave the word to hitch up. We all sprang to our feet and the way we made things fly was a caution. Four waggons were ready soon after the word was given and they started. Nos. 3 & 4 remained, the former for what cause I know not, & the latter because they had not yet obtained a yoke. I felt sick, having drank two cups of cocoa, being very thirsty. I remained a few moments behind & then followed. Jones' waggon did not start with us. I caught up to the train just after they had. I passed the camp just as they were drilling. There were not as many waggons as there were at the lower camp, but more soldiers. I saw a sight not to be met with every day. It was a pretty girl, dressed neatly, and sitting in a handsome tent, sewing. I also saw a handsome carriage covered with a canvass. With a young lady on one side & a carriage on the other, I imagined myself in Broadway for a moment. We went on about 2 miles above the encampment and stopped for the night. I walked part of the way and got a thorn in my foot, which pained me, but I did not mind it. After a cup of tea we went to bed. No water here. Distance 5 miles. Thursday, July 19th. I slept very uncomfortably last night, my foot paining & the wind blowing strong upon me. We arose, however, earlier than ever before, & having eaten our morning meal we went out and hunted up our oxen before you could see ten feet off. We were first on the road and the train commenced moving about % past 4 o'clock, No. 2 leading the van. Our road was quite good for the 1st part of the day, although off the road it was a succession of thorny bushes of all kinds. Our road lay directly through a valley between the mountains & following the whole way an Indian trail. The latter part of the road was extremely bad, being rocky with loose stones and considerable ups & downs. Following the trail, I found water in basins worn in the rocks some distance from road. My horse drank till I thought he 71

Overland to California would injure himself, & I drank little less. Most of the basins were covered with a slime, but the one I partook of, quite clean & good. About a mile before you come to the river there was an Indian bed near the road, strewed around which was a great many bones, showing it had been the scene of an Indian encampment. A little nearer the river stands a splendid tree. It stood alone and its noble boughs throwing themselves high in air tempted the weary traveller with their shade, as we had not seen a tree of any size for some days. Here I lay, weary & not feeling quite well, my foot troubling me exceedingly. I went on after resting a short while and reached the river sometime in advance of the train. Our waggon camefirst& crossed the river without accident. The oxen, however, took considerable time to drink, they not having any water this yesterday morning worth mentioning, as the water at the springs was so muddied by hogs, cattle, that ours drank scarcely. When we started, No. 6 ran against a tree coming to the river, but luckily nothing was injured. We encamped about % of a mile beyond the river, which we reached about 3 o'clock. We were in a valley between mountains about 300 above us. The Army train were close behind us when we reached the river. They, however, did not cross it. I felt very uncomfortable with my foot and could not stir. Distance —. Friday, July 20th. We had no guard on today, the Army surrounding us. We did not rise early this morning as we did not intend to leave today. I slept but little, being in pain with my foot. It looked cloudy all the morning but did not rain much. Two of the members of No. 3 came up at noon and reported the two waggons behind but 5 miles. They came up at % past 2.1 passed the day in reading. Some of the boys caught a few fish, mostly catfish. Our campground was not the most pleasent, there not being very good grazing & also any quantity of chapparel which made it tedious to find the oxen. The access to the river was also difficult on account of the woods on the river bank. 72

a. *

ROUTE

OF THE FREMONT ASSOCIATION The Gulf of Mexico to El Paso, 184.9

Compiled from. contemporary sources by George P. Hammond and Edward II. Hones Drawn by C. E. Erickson, 1949

l 105

Devils River to the Pecos Saturday, July 21st 1849. We did not keep guard last night, and I enjoyed an excellent night's rest. It began to rain towards morning but we slept in the tent and were secure from any wet. The rain continued till the afternoon. The day was very unpleasent. The Army passed us today. Mr. Shergold, the gentleman that came out in the ship B. R. Milam with us, and who we took up at one of last settlements, sick, travelling with No. 8 till we reached the Army and who we left with a Mr. Phillips & his wife—was brought up in a hospital waggon. He had accidentally shot himself. The ball entered the right breast, passing through him & coming out at the shoulder. He also shot himself through the hand—his hand was close to the muzzle. The wound was extremely painful, it not having bled any, the powder having entered it. The accident happened at 6 o'clock in the morning at Big Drunk Springs, so he had travelled 20 miles over a rough road without receiving any medical assistance. The way it happened was as follows: he was trying to put the leather cap that holds the gun to the pommel of the saddle; it caught the harness raising it, so that, falling, it obtained force sufficient to fire. Dr. Cook of our Association dressed the wound. It was some after 8 o'clock when he arrived. My brother assisted the doctor while I went to sleep. Sunday, July 22nd. We started this morning rather late. The Army passed us this morning before we started. No. 2 led the van. We were told that we should go over the worst road we had 73

Overland to California yet met, and indeed it was so. We crossed the Devils River 6 times where there was water and once or twice where it was dry. Some of the government waggons were broken coming over the road. We, however, got over in safety with our waggons. We passed one part of the Army train, they having encamped. We went on about a mile. We got in a little after noon, having travelled 10 miles. The way to the water was extremely difficult and it was almost impossible to get the oxen to it, being about Vs mile through thick chapparel & trees. We had an excellent supper, being some nice wheat cakes raised with some milk. It was a caution to see how a pile a foot high disappeared. This day appeared less like the Sabbath than any Sabbath day yet. Monday, July 23rd. We were on the alert pretty early this morning & our mess were readyfirstagain; No. 6 followed. These two waggons got ahead of some of the government waggons. The others waited till the train all passed. The waggons ahead had to let the train pass them, as they drive faster than we—not faster than we can, but faster than we wish. Our cattle are in much better condition than theirs, being as good as when we bought them. The government, I believe, have eleven hundred yoke besides the beef cattle. The road today was a mixture of good and bad. We encamped about a mile this side of the Army, or a portion of it, on the border of a pretty lake.1 There was, however, no path [?] down to the water & the bank very steep. My brother and I went fishing in the lake after we took a bite, we having arrived before 2 o'clock. He caught two catfish, which together with some more of those milk cakes (the milk having been obtained from the gentleman who has brought out the milch cows). Ogden's, the suttler's, waggons passed here this 1 No indication has been found of any real lake in this vicinity, either now or in Eccleston's time. The body of water mentioned here may have been rainwater temporarily collected behind a beaver dam.

74

on the Southwestern Trail afternoon and encamped about half way between us and the train. Some turkeys were killed here this afternoon. Two mules & four horses were stolen from the Army last night, and one of the horses found not far off with an arrow through him. This ground is 213 miles from San Antonio by the Engineers' measurement. Tuesday, July 24th. We are not going to move this morning. There is some talk of moving this afternoon. We looked up our oxen this morning, which we found pretty close. My brother and I were on guard last night. It was extremely warm during the day and there was a general lay-off while it was so warm. Messrs. Brown [?] & Edwards went ahead to find out the prospects for moving. Some of the boys caught a quantity offish.Our pioneers brought intelligence that we could not move as yet. We heard that tonight was to be the scene of an attack on an Indian village, 16 miles distant, by the scouting party attached to the Army, for stealing the horses. Messrs. Browns talk of selling out & pushing forward, also Messrs. O'Brien & Creary. We have enjoyed the luxury of bathing since we came. The country through which we have travelled since leaving San Antonio has been very barren. On the early part of the march a few wild grapes & plums were seen, but lately nothing in way of fruit but some percimmons. The prickly pear grows abundantly throughout all the way. There has also been plenty of thorns & brier. It has been said with more truth than poetry that everything here bears a thorn. There was a small social party held this evening, but as I was not well I did not contribute. Wednesday, July 25. It rained very hard during the night, but we had our tent up and heeded it but little. We had four lodgers extra, as soon as it began to rain, from the messes that had not pitched their tents. It cleared off towards morning. No prospects of starting today. There is a beaver dam on the lake close to our camp. No beavers have yet been seen. Mr. Brown preached a 75

Overland to California sermon after supper, after which we retired. Part of the mule train behind passed us today. We received an order today from the commanding officer that all emigrants were required to follow in the rear of the Army. Thursday, July 26. This morning my brother & I made arrangements to change our messes, Messrs. O'Brien & Creary wishing an interest in our waggon, &c., together with the Browns, who intend to sell out the whole concern & proceed with pack mules, they allowing us the difference between & % of a share. We unpacked our waggon & took our things out, & making the necessary preparation, which took some time, we changed our quarters. We having drawn cuts for which mess we should join, they being 3 & 6, he drew the former & I the latter. No. 6 had missed a yoke of their oxen but found them before night. I had some turkey for supper in my new mess; they have more game, generally, than any other mess. After supper there was a meeting of the Fremont Association for the purpose of electing officers, Mr. Brown in the chair, Mr. Davis, secretary. After the meeting was called to order we proceeded to elect the president. The nominations were Isaac Brower & Thos. L . Watson. Messrs. Cook & Brooks were appointed tellers. Mr. Brower was elected by a small majority. The nominations for vice president were Dr. Cook & Mr. Davis; the doctor was elected by considerable majority. The nominations for secretary were Messrs. Leavy & Davis. Mr. Leavy was elected. Both this gentleman & Dr. Cook after their election made each a short speech thanking the Association for the honor conferred upon them, & saying it would be their earnest endeavours to discharge their duties to the best of their abilities. The Association was about balloting for captain when it was moved & carried, on account of it being so dark, that we adjourn till tomorrow afternoon.

76

on the Southwestern Trail After the meeting had been dismissed, a call was made by Colonel Watson for the members to attend a meeting of the Social Society. The Colonel was chosen president and Dr. Cook, vice president. The meeting was opened by a song from the president. The vice president was called next, & so it went, the person performing having the priviledge of calling on whom he pleased. Mr. Phillips & his wife, having come up during the day, joined in the sociality. He first sang & afterwards played on the accordian, which instrument he is master of. The meeting broke up about Vz past 9 o'clock, & all retired. Thursday, July 26 [sic]. I was unwell during the night & was awaked about V2 past 3, just as I began to rest a little, to breakfast. We were the second waggon on the road, notwithstanding we greased our waggon. No. 2, 6, & 3 started in advance of the rest of the train. Mr. Phillips' establishment followed, which consist of a light old waggon, the box about 4 ft. by 7, covered with a light cotton cloth on a square frame. Mrs. Phillips drives before it two mules, a gray & brown. Mr. Phillips walks behind with his gun on his shoulder, as a sentinel on his post. It looked cloudy all morning and commenced raining about ten o'clock but was not of much consequence till after we encamped, where we pitched our tent & made preparations, when it rained hard. The rest of the train reached the ground about % hour after we did. Our camp was about 1 mile this side of Boorman's train. A pond of water was close to us, to which we cut a road through the woods. After the rain ceased I went fishing, but was only rewarded by catching one catfish. Mr. Shergold is in the Army hospital. The company with the cows camped quite near us. French's train is behind.2 We had to come some half a mile off the right road to obtain water. Distance travelled today 8 miles. We had another s Brevet Captain S. G. French's Quartermaster train, which had been left behind at San Felipe Creek, on July 8th.

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Overland to California social meeting this evening, but it was too soon after the last to be very interesting. Friday, July 27th. We understand this morning that the Army will not move for 3 or 4 days, so we must be content. There is little or no game here, fish are plenty. We had a meeting to elect military officers this morning. President, vice president, & secretary in their places. The roll was called and the minutes read of the last meeting. The nominations for captain were Thompson, Lingram, & Harrington. Mr. Thompson declined, saying that he could not get his orders obeyed. After Thompson declined, O'Brien was proposed. Thompson was afterwards prevailed on to run. Mr. Harrington then withdrew, and the candidates were Messrs. Thompson, Lingram & O'Brien. The balloting stood: Thompson, 9; Lingram, 3; O'Brien, 14. O'Brien was then announced elected by a majority of 2 votes. The candidates for 1st lieutenant were Messrs. Harrington & Chapman. Mr. Harrington was elected. The candidates for 2nd lieutenant were Messrs. Chapman & Lyon. The first ballot was a tie. On second, Mr. Chapman was elected by a slight majority. The meeting then adjourned. Nothing else of an interesting nature marked the progress of the day. Saturday, July 28th. We received news that more of the horses & mules were either lost or stolen, probably the latter. A party of three men with pack mules came up to camp today. They came as far as the Leona with Ridgway's party (the cow party), but, losing two horses, they waited considerable time hunting for them. They found but one of them & travelled over 40 miles a day. Since they left they met about a dozen Indians this side of the San Felippe. They were within a few steps of each other on the road before they discovered each other. They both stopped, the Indians inquiring in Spanish if they were Americans. They replied they were & told them to give them the road 78

on the Southwestern Trail which they did & they passed on. French's train came up today & encamped on the other side of the lake. The Army, it said, start Monday morning & we think of leaving in the afternoon. Our next stretch is about 25 miles without water. There were considerable fish caught today but no game. Our oxen have been very easily found since we came here, as there is a high hill or young mountain sloping gradually down to the camp, which gives us a chance of seeing for some distance. The grazing is not the best but does very well. The water is not the best either. Mr. Brown preached a sermon after supper from the words "if a man hate not his father & mother, brethern and sisters, yea, & his own life, he cannot be my desciple." After the sermon it was late enough to go to bed. Sunday, July 29th. Messrs. Suly & Lingram brought home this morning three large turkeys, the only game brought to camp worth mentioning. This is the Sabbath but the sweet chimes of the bells are not heard warning the Christian of the hour of prayer. Mr. Brown preached again this morning at 11 o'clock. There is not more than 25 emigrants besides us with the Army train. After supper Mr. Adams of our mess discovered a large black bear coming down the hill. He started with his gun, followed by Mr. Bratton, Mr. Edwards, Jones, &c. They got within 300 yards of him, when he turned & went up the hill; but, some of them heading him off, he came down again opposite the California camp above us. Three shots were fired. The first from the gun of a Mr. McColister, brought him to the ground. He was a good-sized bear and fat for this time of year. Although our boys did not kill him they were the means of giving them the shot at him, otherwise he would have been "over the hills & far away." Mr. Brown preached again this evening. I have been suffering all day from two boils under the chin, which troubles me to swallow or even to speak. 79

Overland to California Monday, July 30th. The first thing that attracted my attention this morning as I awoke was the passing of the mule train, which was followed by the ox train and then the Californians. A comical genius known by the name of Yankee, who was brought out by Mr. Brower & who is in his mess, No. 4, came trudging along the road this morning, carrying in his arms, wrapped up in his coat, two large catfish weighing over 20 lbs. apiece, and dragging two large buffalo fish weighing as much more." This beats all the fishing done yet by our party. He sold one of the buffalos to Mr. Ridgeway for % dollar and gave us one of the cats. It was extremely warm today, notwithstanding which the boys commenced preparing for their departure. At 3 o'clock the thermometer, taken out of a valise & held in the sun for a few moments, rose to 114° above zero. The order from the captain was to start at this hour, but on account of excessive heat it was postponed till 4 o'clock. The cow company started a little before 3 o'clock and passed us. It began to look a little cloudy while we were getting up the oxen, which were all easily found excepting No. 3's, they having strayed in amongst the chapparel. We watered our oxen the last thing on account of our prospects concerning water. No. 2 & 6 were first on the road, followed by 8, 4, 1, then Jones, and lastly No. 3, whose oxen detained them. We heard that French's train would follow the day after tomorrow. We met, soon after we started, a man named Wright, who came out with us to Galveston in the ship Milam. He has long since been broke and, I believe, unable, as he wished, to obtain a situation in their company. He is a botanist & quite a short man; he cut a curious figure carrying a huge port-foliafilledwith 8 Eccleston notes on a flyleaf of this section of his diary: "Where Yankee caught the big fish, San Pedro Springs." This was one of the small springs near the head of the main stream of the Devils (or San Pedro) River, roughly 50 miles above its mouth.

80

on the Southwestern Trail good-sized plants & flowers which he was preserving. We soon got into the right road again and, as it was cool on the account of a fair prospect for rain, we travelled fast. Still in the valley, we entered about 6 miles this side of Big Drunk Springs. It soon began to rain, which we were glad to have on account of the cattle. The shower passed over, and there was considerable variety of opinion whether it would rain again or not. Jones' waggon & No. 3 delayed, and soon a messenger came up on a full trot, leading a horse for Dr. Cook. He returned and afterwards Mr. Edwards, who came up for the doctor's medicine saddle bags, told us that Ambrose, Jones' driver, was extremely sick and that they were encamped. This man has been sick since he started on the journey, but was getting well, & this morning, it appears, he was bitten by a small black & red spider, which he did not mind much till after he had started. He has been bitten by rattlesnake before, which makes his case worse. Mr. Wood of No. 3 came up afterward for some laudinum & hartshorn, which were sent from the medicine chest. It began to be dark and look rainy. We arrived at the place where Ridgeway's company had camped about 8 o'clock and concluded to end our march. Here we put up ourfly.While we were doing this it began to rain quite smartly. After eating supper in the dark, consisting of some water poured over the grounds in the coffee pot, together with some half-boiled rice, which our cook had omitted seasoning with salt, we lay down while the rain was pattering on our canvas covering. We travelled about 10 miles. Tuesday, July 31. We found our oxen easily and started at V2 past 6 o'clock, No. 2 & 6 having, as usual, to wait for the others. We drove about 2 miles pr. hour, the road being in some places poor, but generally good. Our boys were well scattered in search of water, hoping that the rain might have left some in holes. We expected to have to make 7 miles today to reach the springs at 81

Overland to California the 25 miles from our late encampment. We passed an ox butchered near the road. We supposed it had been done by Indians, as it was half left, and this we knew as not the way the beeves regularly killed for the Army were served, as the horns alone indicate the spot on which they have been butchered. We afterwards found out that it was one of Ogden's, the suttler's, whose men complaining of not receiving their regular rations of beef, he ordered it to be killed, but the men refused to take it as it was an old steer (they said) that was unable to proceed. About two miles after we left the camp we got out of the valley, but before we had gone that much further we got into it again. After we had travelled—as we supposed—full 17 miles, still we found no water, and, going ahead, we met some of our pioneers who stated that there was no water about, that they had overtaken the suttler's train, and they said that the Army themselves had searched in vain and that both of them encamped without water last night. We halted under these pleasing prospects, but it looked cloudy, and before we got our covering fixed, down came a shower of rain. It ceased, however, before dark, it being near 4 o'clock when we halted. We made a good repast on some pancakes & bacon, after which we prepared for a good night's rest, thankful for the kindness of Providence in sending rain for the benefit of our cattle. Guard was placed on tonight. The Cow Company encamped close to us. Just below our camp we passed a government waggon on the side of the road, broken down, with a note stuck in it from Captain Boorman, saying that Mr. French would please bring on this waggon, that his oxen were not in a state to allow him. We passed another dead ox before we reached here, on the road. We travelled the supposed 20 miles. Wednesday, August 1st. Last night an incident happened that I would my duty would allow me to pass, but as it is otherwise, I 82

on the Southwestern Trail must relate it. At 11 o'clock we were aroused by a call from Mr. Thompson, who addressed himself to Mr. Bratton of our mess, who is an old Texian. Our attention was called to a fire lighted on a hill about % of a mile distant. It was but momentary, but it appeared again. Our best men took it for a signal fire of the Indians. The horses were quickly brought close to the camp. The word was to arm, and the way we prepared ourselves was a caution. Our belts were buckled on, our powder horns flung over our shoulders. Thefirewas seen at intervals. We supposed it was a signal to a party on the other side of us. Some of the boys were about to advance towards the light when we thought it would be prudent to enquire through our own & the Cow Company whether there were any of the members out of camp or not, although, if it were possible, unknown to the guard. We found out that 4 members of No. 4 were absent, & Mr. Sileckson, the only one in their tent, said, when awaked, that they had gone hunting after honey, but that they went in the opposite direction to the light. We did not know now exactly what to think. That they would be foolish enough to light a fire after night we thought impossible. Uncertain whether or not it were they, a scouting party, consisting of Captain O'Brien, Messrs. Thompson, A. E. Brown, R. Eccleston & Brooks, armed & determined, we sallied forth to see what was to be seen. We travelled through all kinds of thorns & briars, and down gullys, stopping now & then to listen. After reaching the bottom of the hill we stopped to listen. When we heard the voice of Yankee, one of the wanting members, we called out to them & were answered by them. Having come so far, we thought we would go to the spot, and climb hands & feet up a steeply inclined rock. After we got up we found them in a cave, who, when they perceived us burst out laughing at us. This was not very pleasent, & after expostulating with them on the 83

Overland to

California

danger of such a business, of which they only made fun, we left them and returned to camp. Just as we got back, two express riders carrying the mail and on their way to French's camp, they told us that the Army were encamped 4 miles ahead & that they had found water; also that Ogden's train was encamped 2 miles ahead and had water—so it appeared we did not go quite far enough. Both these watering places were occassioned by the rain. They reported that, notwithstanding two or three different messengers had been sent ahead, that none had returned, but it was supposed to be from ten to fifteen miles to the River Pecos. After this excitement we lay down again & tried to finish our naps, but it is not so easy to get to sleep when roused up, as may be supposed. Besides, Ridgway's cows came and were determined to perform after the style of the "Campanologian Bell Ringers," but they might have been styled the "Cowbell-ogians." That their music was not quite as excellent, although no critique, I will affirm. They stood close to our sleeping appartment. One of our mess gathered a handful of stones to try and keep the midnight minstrels at bay. I myself got asleep, but some of the boys complained this morning of not sleeping ten minutes. We started about 4 o'clock to find water, either at the 2 or 4 mile place, whichever should prove the best place. Our honey hunters resumed their work this morning, taking a supply of tools & pails. After coming up to Ogden's train we halted, and word soon came that this was the place to encamp. We watered our oxen, but, not being as wise as we should have been, they were all led at once into a small hole some 12 ft. in diameter so that none of them could get a chance, besides muddying it. We soon encamped, got our tents up, and made ourselves comfortable for the rest of the day. We heard different reports from the Army. One was that it was supposed the messengers sent ahead 84

on the Southwestern Trail had been murdered. The suttler's cattle were well beaten out and I noticed one or two that were unable to stand, but laying down would try and graze. It was quite cool towards evening. I was excessively troubled lately, particularly this afternoon with a large boil under my chin. It was so painful that I could with difficulty swallow. The inflamation extended from my cheek bone down below my shoulder blade. My head was all in a fever and I could not rest, either laying down or any way else. It broke just before dark. The honey hunters returned at sunset, having obtained about in all 50 or 60 lbs. of honey, comb & all, but they gave some to the cow men & Mess No. 8 who assisted them, leaving themselves about 20 lbs. Although I did not expect to rest much, I made my bed as comfortable as possible; and, mixing some cream of tartar with water & sugar to drink and laying it down by my pillow (or saddle), I lay myself down. We heard from a reliable source that there had been water found 12 miles ahead, & that the Army would start at 5 o'clock in the morning. This morning we heard of the death of the Hon. Henry Clay, which afterwards was corrected as Cassius M. Clay,4 also that war had been declared by the United States against Mexico. Thursday, August 2nd. Having slept during the latter part of the night, I felt much relieved. We started this morning ahead of the sutler. We passed a dead ox in the road just after we started. After travelling a while we ascended & found ourselves out of the valley through which we had been travelling, but we soon again entered a valley through which there was hardly room for a road. The sutler's train overtook us but did not attempt to pass. We arrived at the campground about 2 o'clock. The water was from a spring, but where we took it from, it was impregnated * Both versions of the rumor were without foundation. Henry Clay, the Great Compromiser, died in 1852, and the famous anti-slavery leader, Cassius M. Clay, lived until 1903.

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Overland to California with vegetable matters that it was hardly fit to drink. We now learned that this was the last water we should get for 30 miles & that the Army were going to start at 4 o'clock and travel 8 or 10 miles & then perform the rest tomorrow. Our boys were out hunting but they came home empty. Since we left the pond of water above Devils River have, notwithstanding our efforts, killed nothing. The hills that surround this valley are all nearly the same height & uniformly flat, upon the top. This place had formerly been a great Indian rendevous, as bones of all kinds of beasts were strewn about. Even the wood that I gathered for our fire had formed a kind of tent or covering. After supper we had a very pleasent social meeting. We had the pleasure of the company of a good many Californians from the different companys. The chief performers were Colonel Watson, Messrs. Conry (who sang elegantly), Monell (amusingly). Others joined; after a good deal of fun we dispersed. We did not intend to start till tomorrow afternoon. Howard's spring—distance 12 miles. (We passed an ox alive in the road that had given out from one of the government teams.) Friday, August 3rd. Nothing exciting took place this morning, which was cool & cloudy, & at 12 o'clock we began to prepare for a start at 3 o'clock. The weather was propitious. The Cow Company started ahead of us & the sutler waggons drove past as some of ours stood waiting for the rest. We started at 2 o'clock precisely, leaving No. 3 & Jones on the ground, who said they understood that 3 o'clock was the hour. We soon caught up with the sutler who drove behind his train half a dozen of animals that perhaps might once have been called oxen, but most of which were now unable to cast a shadow. Some of them were lame but they were driven on by two men with clubs who beat them at nearly every step. One of the men jumped on one of these creatures & rode the poor thing. This same ox gave out 86

on the Southwestern Trail soon afterwards by falling down. One of the men put dirt in his nose to stop his breath and make him jump up, but this would not do. He then beat him, but in vain. His last resort was to stand on his ribs & jumped a dozen times up and down on him. He then gave him up. What cruelty. After travelling about 10 miles we got up on high land, tolerably level, & a good road. The Cow Company camped just after it became dark, & we passed them. The moon shone bright, although it looked as if it might rain before morning. I was extremely sleepy & could hardly keep awake, even walking. I resorted to singing & reciting to keep awake, & soon we had a regular social meeting on the road, commencing with the song in 4 verses of the Miller dog or Bango. After coming to some trees the sutler encamped, & we drove a little beyond and did likewise, and after a warm supper we lay down for the night. It was % of 1 o'clock when we arrived in the ground. Jones & No. 3 passed us about an hour after we got here. They thought we left them & they were going to leave us. The suttler picked up an ox in the afternoon that had been left by the government train but had recovered enough to stand. They ordered the men to drive him away, saying he would be able to be put in their team tomorrow. He took him [?]; another escaped their notice. Saturday, August 4th. We got up before we could see, but soon found that it had been raining, &, in fact, was then trying so to do. We got our breakfasts, & before it was light enough to see, our hunters were after their cattle. They were all found easily but a yoke belonging to No. 1. We were soon on the road. We left the suttler hunting up his cattle. We soon came to the place where No. 3 & Jones had encamped, about 2 miles ahead. The road was excellent & the weather favourable, and we rolled on at a good gait. After travelling about 8 miles, we came to the steepest hill for its length that our waggons have had the pleas-

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Overland to California ure of rolling over. We were again wedged in between two high hills. Our oxen seemed to stand it well, and after a tedious march we at length came in sight of the Army encampment. About rA of a mile this side of the camp, one of the No. 4 oxen, which they bought of Jones, gave out. They unyoked him & left him & then came on; we, in the meantime, passed him. Yankee, who drives for them & who, for a wonder, got ahead of us in the train, made a remark that No. 6 was in the pig's tail. When he came up, having got stuck in the creek & No. 8 sending a yoke back for them, we asked him who was in the pig's tail then. A fewfishwere caught here, but no game had been seen. Our road to the water was anything but smooth. For an % of a mile the briers, thorns, & cone grass was as high as your head. It was delightful getting water, and when you arrived at camp you would find about half the water you started with, and also your legs well scratched. The grass at our camp was not the best. The spring here is called Live Oak Springs. It is over 30 miles from the last water to these springs. Sunday, August 5th. We remained in camp today which passed off without much excitement. We had two or three good showers. Mr. Brown did not preach till night. A few waggons passed us going to the river this morning. We heard that the boat had been put together & the Engineers' waggons had already crossed. No game found about this place. Mrs. Ridgway, wife of the gentleman with the cows, was delivered of a son last night. The mother & child are doing well. This is undoubtedly the first white child ever born in this valley. It happened in the right time. We purchased some fresh beef for eating from Colonel Hays. It went about west. This is the first fresh beef I have tasted since before we left Victoria. I went to sleep on Mr. Brown's sermon which dooms the world to an end before the 19th of next May. I passed the day in reading. 88

on the Southwestern Trail Monday, August 6th. The Army train passed us this morning on their way to the river. Our captain gave orders for us to be on the road at 2 o'clock. We had occasional showers of rain, but it was fine before we started. We had a fine dinner of soup & boiled beef which we did ample justice to. Our waggon was 2nd on the road. No. 1 & 4's cattle had strayed away & they were unable to come to time. Hearing that the water of the Pecos was unfit to drink, wefilledour cask from the springs. No. 3 & Jones' waggon, having encamped on the other side of the stream, came up before we were ready. They went on, also the other Californians. We rolled on smartly, the road being good, & some time before sunset we arrived in sight of the camp, having travelled about 8 miles. When I first came up I supposed the Army encampment to be on this side of the river, when I was surprised by finding the River Pecos—so much talked of since the commencement of our journey—running close to our waggon. Were it not for the road that is cut through the bank and the tall grass that is flattened, you would be unable to discover that a river flowed here until within one or two feet of it. Not a solitary tree or a clump of brush marks its course. The river is about 70 ft. wide where the ferry boat crossed it. It is uniformly wide, generally, & the water of the color of prepared cacoa without milk.' Its depth here is about 10 ft.; the banks are perpendicular. The water is not as unpalatable as was reported. It tastes a little saltish, but when cleared by the aid of a prickly pear, which is done by peeling off the skin of a leaf and stirring the water with it, it is quite drinkable. The horses & cattle seem very fond of it. When we arrived the whole of Boorman's train had crossed, and most of the suttler's waggons. They all got over safely, although the boat is small & the current running about 6 miles pr. 5 The name Pecos is from the Spanish word pecosa, meaning freckled, mottled, or speckled.

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Overland, to California hour. I arrived just in time to see a Mexican cart, belonging to the suttler, not only go on the boat, but take boat and all to the bottom. This cart was heavily laden, & the weight coming down all at once, and not being exactly square in the boat, it filled & went down. They, however, saved most of the things, & the boat experienced no more injury than losing some of the bottom planks that were not fastened. This put a damper on our crossing tonight, & we dispatched a messenger to stop the boys who had gone about a mile down the river to swim the cattle across. We now prepared supper, after which we went to bed. Colonel Hays' brother has come from Mexico with 50 mules for government, also a man from Presidio del Norte with a waggon & mules, bound for Victoria. The government, I understand, are sending back an express to San Antonio, & offering a dollar pr. day to young men who wish to return. Tuesday, August 7th. We have arrived at that season of the year when the nights begin to be quite cool & wind generally blowing rather too fresh for a comfortable sleep in the open air excepting you have a quantity of covering over you. So it was last night. Early this morning the sutler's men were fixing the boat & getting the rest of their waggons across. Next came the Californians with mules & then our turn. We brought our waggons down by hand. They all went over safely, but ours lacked only an inch of bringing the gunnel of the boat on a level with the water, & No. 1 only half that much, this was owing to the waggons not being exactly in the middle of the boat, also to their being the heavyest of the lot, excepting No. 4, & they wisely took out part of the load. We then helped the cow man & saved a couple of steers for him that he attempted to make swim across at this place, but the banks were too steep to allow them to get up. We had to pull them out by main force, and might well have been said that we took the bull by the horns! Our cattle crossed 90

on the Southwestern Trail all right, & we took our horses across on the boat, two to a time. It was noon when we were all ready and drawing out on the road to give us a chance. We made a little fire from the effects of which we had a good cup of coffee & some bacon, which made us feel much more amiable. No. 4 did not wait to cook but went ahead. After dinner we started on & soon overtook No. 4, who we found had broken two king bolts since they left the river & were waiting for another. We had none to give them & being unable to be of any assistance to them, we passed them & went on. We saw the Army camp nearly six miles off, although it did not look to be half that distance. We camped about 1% mile this side of the Army camp on a lake of excellent water, they using the river water, but soon they sent a waggon with cook to obtain some of our water. After supper I went fishing but the fish did not like to hang on, and after an hour and over spent in vain, I gave it up. Some of our boys talk of going to Presidio & from thence to Chihuahua. There was some gambling going on amongst the other Californians who are camped with us. Also, a meeting was called by those who intend going to Presidio. I went to bed with the consciousness that I would be called at one o'clock on guard. Distance 9 miles. Wednesday, August 8th. I slept uncomfortably during the first part of the night, but after my guard was over, which was % past 3, I slept well till aroused to breakfast, a little before 5 o'clock. Our oxen were not found so easy as usual. No. 2 was on the road first, No. 4 next, and then our waggon. We were close on to the Army's heels & they kept us back considerably. We touched close on the river in two or three places. The Army lost some oxen & mules from the hard march. It was indeed a tedious day. We passed No. 4, whose oxen gave out about 5 miles before we reached the campground. It was indeed a pleasent sight, when we got out on top of a hill, to see the Army encampment 91

Overland to California stretched out at the foot of the hill. The only water we had to use was the river water. The distance we travelled today has been variously calculated at from 20 to 26 miles. I think about 23 would be a fair average. This was a long stretch without nooning it, & I tell you the way the coffee & bread, together with a piece of a Mexican hog that had been presented to me by Mr. Lingram of Mess No. 3, suffered, was a caution. We did not encamp before the sun was waiting till an hour should pass away that it might set, & therefore, after our supper, having taken care of our cattle & horses, it was "time that little boys should be in bed." No. 8 did not come up till late, & No. 3 & Jones encamped back some distance. Thursday, August 9th. Our mess, or rather a portion of them, were on guard. It was not till after sunrise, a rare occurrence, that we sat down to breakfast. The Army did not seem to be making preparations for an early start, and we yoked up & unyoked again as we heard they were not going to start for a couple of hours. Colonel Hays came into our camp this morning. He told us that the Fredricksburg road was only 8 miles distant from our camp in a straight line, also that after we travelled about 15 miles further that we would leave the valley, and that, from now on, the hills would be growing more diminutive till we left them for good. As soon as the Army got in motion, we did likewise, & were again cramped all day waiting for them. Our road was good and at 2 o'clock we came to an anchor close to the muddy river. The grass exceedingly good, distance 9 miles. Some of our boys think of the Fredricksburg road. It is said to be 100 miles the shortest, & this would be a great object, as we might reach El Paso before the Army, who will lick everything clean. Our mess went strong for the Fredricksburg route. It is but about 30 miles from here. Colonel Watson attempted to get up a social meeting, but there was slim attendance, and therefore unexciting. 92

From the Pecos to Wild Rose Pass

Friday, August 10. We awaited the motions of the Army this morning, and therefor did not start very early. We understood we would travel 16 miles before reaching water. We therefor took the precaution to put a couple of large pails full of Pecos mineral water into our cask, first having settled the water. The precise method of this valuable invention I will state. Take the leaf, a good-sized one, of a prickly pear & you may either burn the prickers off over a fire, & then peel or cut the skin ofiF, or cut it off without pushing, & you may be assured that either way your fingers will get pricked. After it is peeled, either put it on a knife, or take it in your hand, & stir the water with it well. The sand adheres to the juicy substance and both, after a few moments, sink to the bottom. When properly cleared you can see the least thing in bottom of the pail, & you will undoubtedly find half a pint of sand in a circle at the bottom of the pail. We were again hindered by the Army train. My brother & I let our horses graze while the train went on. When we got up to start, our horses took the notion of not being caught—a thing that has never happened, although we have always let them go without tieing when close by. We had a splendid chase of about 6 miles, & when we caught them we could not find our bridles, &c., which we left near road where we were laying, there being such a monotony in the ground, notwithstanding I endeavoured to mark the spot before I left it. At length we succeeded & turned our horses heads towards the train. I felt anything but amiable while endeavoring to catch my horse. 93

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About 8 miles from our starting point we overtook Jones' & my brother's waggons, together with some other Californians, encamped for the noon. I obtained a cup of water from Jones' cask, which did not set me back. My brother stopped here, but I was joined by Mr. Brower & we trotted on. The road was extremely dusty & disagreable. A little after 3 o'clock we caught up with the train. We found the boys fatigued & most of them suffering for water, which they had not provided. We, however, were fortunate enough to have a little. After going over 17 miles we found no water, & on we went. After gradually ascending, we arrived at the top of a hill, and, looking ahead for about 3 miles, we discovered the mule train forming a corral. This was a pleasing prospect. We had an unpleasent march, something similar to one we had reaching Big Drunk Springs. The dust flew, almost suffocating man & beast. We arrived at camp ground a little before sunset. The water was in a marsh to the right of the road. We were close to it, the water proceeds from springs and is clean but tastes a little brackish.1 No. 4 did not start from the last campground till near 11 o'clock and were not in sight when we descended the hill. No. 3 & Jones arrived about an hour after sundown. When we got to camp we were covered with dust from head to foot, and after our work was done we washed ourselves. I felt at least 50 per cent better; then came supper & we were, after this, considerably above par. A person's appetite has a quite keen edge rubbed on it by fasting from sunrise to sunset, travelling over a dusty prairie. After supper we made up our beds, the wind blowing furiously, & all hands turned in. Our road today was through a valley of 3 to 6 miles wide. Some of the government oxen gave out, and we passed them on the road. Distance 20 miles. 1 Escondido Creek and one of its springs, 18 miles from where the road left the Pecos. „ .

on the Southwestern Trail Saturday, August 11th. No. 4 did not come up last night, as the wind was very strong. The Army did not start till after 7 o'clock, and kept us back. An old man belonging to some of the other Californians died this morning of diarhea. He was buried on the ground. This is the first death that has occurred, I believe, on this expedition.2 Our notice was attracted this morning by a young colored woman who came near our camp, crying & imploring aid. She said her mother had been beaten, & she was afraid that they would tie her up. She said that the offender was Major Henry.8 On going up the road we found the old dame. I will now describe our heroine. She was about 18 yrs. old, of middle stature and fine figure. Her features were not African in the least. She was neatly dressed, her low neck dress showing a breast which in form would eclipse many a belle whose might have been whiter. Her waist was small & exquisite, her color was a shade darker than a mullata & but for the predjudice of color, she would be a charmer. Her mother was different, being darker and bearing all the marks of the African race. She said that she had talked sassy to Major Henry, but that she could not help it, as she had been used to decent treatment. She said she was as free as Major Henry was. She had last come from the Sea Willow, but was raised in Albemarle, Va. Her traps were all thrown out in a heap on the campground, and the Army train went on, leaving her & daughter, without provision, to the mercy either of Californians or the savages. I wished it was in my power to relieve them, but it was not. Mr. Ridgeway, the cow man, offered to take one but they would not separate. I afterwards heard that 2 The unfortunate old man was a Major Beaman, of Texas, who died after several days' illness and was buried near the wagon road. See Thomas Eastland, "To California through Texas and Mexico," California Historical Society, Ouarterlv vol. XVIII (1939), pp. 113-115,135. y> Y» e «y, 3

Brevet Major W. S. Henry, at this time commanding officer of Company I Light Infantry, of the Third Infantry. '

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Overland to California Mr. Stanmore took them under his protection. Major Henry bears a poor name, & indeed I think he richly deserves it, when he would even leave his worst enemy under such circumstances. We followed the Army close, having to wait every little while for them to proceed, which is very disagreable. About 4 miles from where we started, to left of the road, we found water at the point of a hill. It was pointed out by an Indian trail. Coming on to the road again, I got into the tallest grass I ever was in before, some 8 or 10 ft. high. The road was here through the same sort of grass, though not so high. After travelling 7 miles, we came to die campground, being the meanest place that it has been our luck yet to get into. We were close onto the Army, without any grass, but plenty of mesquite chapparrel. Wood was scarce & the spring a good distance off. We had some fresh beef for supper, or dinner, whichever you chose to call it. These springs are called by some Comanche Springs, & others say they are not. One thing is certain, it is an old Indian campground as there are Indian tents, etc., here.4 Our boys had considerable troublefindingtheir cattle & horses, as they all mixed up with those of the government. I suffered a good deal today from one of my eyes, which yesterday, from the dust, sun & wind, I could hardly open it. This morning, it being inflamed from the eyebrow to the cheek bone, I was obliged to wear a bandage over it today. The wind was still high & it looked some like rain. Sunday, August 12th. I was hardly able to open my invalid eye this morning, & bathing it, even with a soft rag, is a painful operation. The Army prepared for moving. They did not correl their oxen as formerly. They had great racing & chasing among the chapparel and through the marshes. We had to watch them close, as they got ours mixed up with theirs. They did not get off 4 Probably Escondido Springs, the head spring of Escondido Creek. Comanche Springs were some 18 miles ahead on the trail.

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on the Southwestern Trail before 9 o'clock. Some of our members, comprising No. 2, wished to step on their heels, but our mess & the rest were determined not to start till the afternoon, as we had 17 miles to travel without water certain, & how much more we did not know. Mr. Brown, who was most anxious of the lot to go, said that, if we broke the Sabbath at all, we might as well start in the morning, I thought (with all due respect for his superior religious knowledge) otherwise. The morning might be dedicated, by those who wished, to devotion, while in the afternoon we might go a little more than a Sabbath-day journey. Another argument in favor of afternoon starting is that in the morning oxen will not fill themselves with water, and 17 miles is too far to drive before reaching. The cattle here, I have noticed, come to water when left to themselves, & know where to find it, but once a day, about noon. They will then drink & lay around it for some time, & perhaps drink again before leaving. This does them till the noon of the following day. We make water on the following day, generally, before noon, & therefor our cattle suffer but little for water, & are much better than if we drove them straight through in the heat of the sun. Some of the boys had considerable hunting for their cavayez [caballos], & some of them were found as far as 4 miles from camp. We determined to start about 2 o'clock & commenced preparing at 12. The fine spring at this place will be found at the further end of the rocky hill. The water comes from under the rock in large quantity. The spot is marked by a solitary mesquite tree about 20 ft. high which projects over the springs. This morning they were busy filling their casks, & I was told that each waggon would carry 5 casks filled. They made the water quite muddy. We eat dinner about 1 o'clock & were on the march at 2. We filled our cask at the spring. I had some trouble in finding my

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Overland to California horse, having let him go about an hour before we started. I found him about % mile off, in the mesquite chapparel. Messrs. Brown, Crary & myself endeavored to drive one of Ridgway's cows that he had left, but she was too much for us & our horses. At first we were promising ourselves a rich treat of milk that evening, but after driving her about a mile, which caused us to run our horses their best, she again bolted, & after chasing her a ways we gave her up for a bad job. I thought probable, though, that some of the boys, consisting of 3,4, and Jones, would drive her up. No. 4 picked up an ox somewhere between this & the last ground. One of theirs being lame, they yoked him up. We had not gone far before we came up with an abandoned government ox. Our boys had serious intentions on his life, thinking that he would make much better eating, although not the fattest of his kind, than shoe leather or rawhide soup, which has been devoured with thankfulness. As it was not my turn to stay with the waggon, I rode on accompanied by some others. We rode about 5 miles, having passed another ox within that distance. We lay down and made ourselves as comfortable as sun would permit. We had one umbrella between 4 of us which kept our heads from its violent rays. Our horses were tied and grazing near. When the train came nearly up, we again started & followed the Indian trail, which guides the road, to keep out of the dust. We jogged on, about SV2 an hour, & soon passed another old veteran, so poor that the sun shone through him. After travelling some 5 or 6 miles further, we came to a valley which contained the best grass we passed. We here dismounted, to await the train, not knowing how much further they would go. It was some time after sunset when they arrived, & all thought we had come far enough. There was great scrambling for wood, as it was scarce & nothing but some twigs at the best. The country through which we passed this afternoon could hardly be called 98

on the Southwestern Trail a valley, although there was an ascent on each side. It wore more the appearance of a boundless prairie that day that we have passed through in some time. The grass was extremely short except in spots, & look as if it had been scorched [?] with fire; but the sun, I believe, is the instrument. A good portion of the ground was parched, and looked as if it had been inundated & then cracked by the rays of the sun. We did not pass any trees, & the highest bushes were not more than 6 or 7 feet. After we had boiled our coffee & fried some bacon, we sat down; & with these, together with some boiled rice, which I had the honor of cooking before we started, & which was pronounced the best the mess had eaten yet, we made a hearty meal, although it was so dark that we had to find our way to our mouths the best way we might. It blew a perfect gale & we had our match to spread our fly. It looked some like rain. No. 3,4 & Jones came up about an hour after us. They brought the cow with them. Distance 10 miles. Monday, August 13th. I was awaked this morning by a few angry words passing between Messrs. Chapman & Crary. It commenced by the latter calling out for the rest of company to get up and go to work, while he himself was lying comfortably on his bed. A challenge passed to meet each other half way, but as Mr. Crary, after fumbling about, put his bowie knife & advanced a few steps from his waggon, Chapman let him go unheeded. We ate breakfast, as we had supper, in the dark, & the boys were soon out after their cattle, which strayed some distance. Mr. Lawson of our mess reported having seen any quantity of deer a short distance from where he found our oxen. On the strength of this, Messrs. Bratton, Adams & Chapman prepared & went, that was as we started on. The train travelled fast, as it was cool & the road good. The wind did not blow as much as lately. As I was riding along, I heard some one ahead of me 99

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hollow, & then I perceived what looked much like a calf running towards us at a furious rate. As it came nearer, I found that I had guessed right & tried to stop it in its course, but my efforts were fruitless & it passed me like the wind. I then knew that it must belong to the cow with our boys, and so it did, for the cow that could hardly be kept from going back now came along quietly. I heard two shots from our hunters, but the antelope, for such they proved to be, were at too great a distance to be hurt. There was said in sight perhaps 200. We again passed a ox that had, no doubt, got his discharge. After travelling about 6 miles, we unexpectedly came in sight of the Army encampment at a distance of a couple of miles. As we moved it was found mule waggons out & men gathering wood, which gave us to understand that we had not come to a country super abundant in this article. I carried as much as I could, leading my horse, & found it out not much fun before I had the pleasure of laying it down. We passed the encampment & crossed a beautifully clear stream" from which our oxen and horses drank plentifully. We encamped on a pretty little flat, bounded on one side by the stream & the other by a hill. Our tents are within 50 yds. of the largest & finest of the springs that render this place a rendevous." The water is the finest we have got a hold in some time. When we arrived we went right to work to prop up our waggon & take off the wheels; this was something of job in a country where not a stick of timber could be found. We then left our wheels in the sun to dry, as they had got wet crossing the stream. We then rested & afterwards had supper. No. 2 left this place for one where, perhaps, they thought they would be happier by themselves. No one regretted their departure. The grass is not the best here, but the water excellent. The wind was high when we rolled ourselves up in our blankets. Dis• Comanche Creek.

9

The famous Comanche Springs.

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on the Southwestern Trail tance travelled today 8 miles; from last water, 18 miles. I enjoyed a bath before I retired, and felt much better after it. Tuesday, August 14th. I was up and dressed just in time to see the sunrise, & after watering my horse, helped to dress four fine catfish that we had caught last evening. When all was ready, we sat down to our morning meal, & the way the cat did jump was a caution. After "breakfast we commenced wedging our wheels to keep the tires on, & it was not play. Whittling for amusement was a different thing. It was noon before we finished our job, & my eyes were well weary of watching the motions of a jack knife on a piece of white pine. I then mended the toe of my boot, which was myfirstlesson in the art of shoemaking, but I made it answer all the purpose, & looked down every once and awhile with pride. My next business was that of a washwoman, but as I have had some little experience in this line, I did not pride myself in it. I washed seven pieces, & I can well say that some of them blushed when brought in contact with pure clean water. It was nearly sundown when I finished & having brought my horse to water, I returned to our tent where my companions were laying in the necessary supply of provision. I buckled to, and having done as much for my country as thought necessary, I took seat, & opening my too much neglected journal, began to write & continued till evening's curtain closed around me. This is, from all accounts & from all appearances, the greatest Indian encampment that it has been our luck to stop at. The ground is literally strewn with horse dung & bones of different animals, but mostly those of mules. I found the skull of a buffalo, horns & all on. Mr. Seely of Mess No. 3 found the skull of a young Mexican girl, with a hole either from an arrow or bullet. Her toisdom teeth were just appearing through the gums. Colonel Hays says that this place is the abode of two different tribes of Indians who in summer pay their visits to Mexico. There is no

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Overland to California end to the mesquite chapparel in the vicinity of where No. 3,4 & Jones are camped. Their cattle & horses feed nearly altogether on the beans, which are said to be as good as corn. Some of our boys went over there to gather some for their horses, as this grass is not the best. They are very fond of them. I have omitted my duty in not saying that Mr. Young of Mess No. 1, a gentleman of much worth, has been suffering, ever since we left the latter end of the Devils River, with a most awful hand. For nights together he did not close his eyes. His hand was swelled as large as half a dozen. Dr. Cook was unable to do anything for him. Some time since, worms came from it. There were 3 holes, one of them running through his hand, all running sores. He has lately gone to the Surgeon of the Army, who says it was poisoned by some reptile. None of those who saw it in its worst stages ever remembered seeing as sore a hand. He is now, however, slowly recovering. The Army are already short of provisions, & their men have been for some time on short rations. I believe they have but provision till the 1st. The Pass is said to be 24 miles from here but no one knows certain. Mess No. 1 have pretty much given up the idea of going to Presidio, the No. 2 are still saying that they will go, but it is doubtfull. The other Californians have all backed out. It would be almost madness to go that way. After supper some of our mess went fishing & brought home 6,4 of which were pretty good sized. The wind, as usual, began to blow fresh; but we, notwithstanding, were determined to sleep, & wrapping our blankets around us, put into it about 20 knots per hour. Wednesday, August 15. We were all up bright and early, some preparing breakfast and the rest engaged in other pursuits. After breakfast, which was much better than usual on account of the presence of the fish, after Bratton and Adams went hunting & some of the men went fishing, I went to gather some mesquite 102

on the Southwestern Trail beans for my pony. This took me till eleven o'clock; it was not very interesting work. The beans are pretty plenty, but you have to stoop down & pick them from under the bush, and you are very likely to get yourself well pricked & torn before you have proceeded far in the business, as the mesquite, as well as everything else in Texas, bears a thorn. My brother helped me, and soon I had a good-sized bag full. My brother has been unwell for a couple of days. There has been considerable gambling, I am sorry to say, going on amongst the Californians & some of the officers. One of the surgeons of the Army lost last night 226 dollars, & Jones, of the big waggon, 79 dollars. Mr. Capperton won a large amount, & also Lieutenant Mason.' About 11 o'clock I understood that the Army would move at 12 o'clock. This was unexpected, as we heard this morning that they were going to remain 3 or 4 days more. True enough, they commenced preparations to move. We determined not to move till morning. No. 3 & Jones got ready, & No. 4 would have done likewise, but one yoke of their oxen were among the missing. My brother & I closed our business with the Browns, as they are going to wait for French's train. They say that if they can dispose of their effects any way, they will go to Presidio. They acted anything but either gentlemany or honest, as some blankets that we took for $4 a pair, & which are never sold by the single one, they said that they told us $4 apiece. We then offered them the blankets & deducted $2, but nothing would do; they had possession of the things & we might whistle. I turned away disgusted, & felt sick the rest of evening. We lay down, determined to make an early start. Captain Boorman went back yesterday to 7 There were two medical officers assigned to this expeditionary force: Assistant Surgeons P. G. S. Ten Broeck and Lyman H. Stone. Major John Caperton was a former Texas Ranger, a friend and associate of Colonel Jack Hays, with whom he was now en route to California. Second Lieutenant Thomas J. Mason, of Maryland, was commanding officer of Company A, Light Infantry, of the Third Infantry Regiment.

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Overland to California meet French's train. I found good many specimens of iron ore about our camp. These springs, or rather the stream which flows from them, is called Agua Ancho, the English of which is Broad Water. It is commonly confused with the word Camanche. Thursday, August 16. We were up before the sun, preparing for our journey. Our waggon moved first, followed by No. 8. After I got on the hill I perceived No. 4 on the march driving like fury. They obtained their oxen by sending Yankee after the train, who found them amongst those that the Army were driving along behind the train. They were not willing to give them up. My brother remained with No. 4 all night, as he was helping them hunt up their oxen the evening before. He was still unwell, We rode along together. The train travelled faster than ever, I noticed. After we had travelled about 3 miles we could see the Army encampment stretched like a white line. We got to the camp about 11 o'clock. We found Jones & No. 3 here and encamped close to them. We heard the Army were going to start at 2 or 3 o'clock. No. 4 determined to go on, & we to stay. The grass was better than at the last place & the water about ditto. We had some rice for dinner, which went well for a change. The water is in springs from under the ground and around it is marshy.6 The Army took a supply of water. Our three waggons 1, 6 & 8 were left alone. Distance 10 miles. Friday, August 17th. Captain Boorman, accompanied by a Mr. Skillman,0 came into our camp last night about 9 o'clock. They were on their way to the camp. They cooked a little coffee & bacon, & let their animals rest a little. They proceeded on after a while. They said that French's train would be at the back 8

Probably Leon Springs, 9Y2 miles from Comanche Springs.

9

Henry Skillman, a noted guide, soldier, and frontiersman. Ralph P. Bieber, ed., Exploring Southwestern Trails, pp. 311-312.

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on the Southwestern Trail spring today. Mr. Adams & I went hunting this morning but only shot one rabbit. There are plenty of burroughs about here. The rabbit was about going into his hole, but was held at bay by a large rattle snake, who was about half in and half out of one of the holes. I hit him with a stone, but it did not kill him, & he went back into the hole. We saw any quantity of deer tracks where they had come to water, and some of them tolerably fresh. But the Army spoil our chance for game. There is any quantity of iron ore which would yield 50 pr. cent about this place, but gold is scarce. Mr. Skillman, that accompanied Captain Boorman last night, returned this morning about 9% o'clock. He was on his way to the springs back. He said that the command encamped 19 miles, & that the ox train went on. He is going to Presidio, & from thence to Chihuahua, to purchase mules for government. While he was letting his mule rest, & himself likewise, some antelope made their appearance, coming down to water full jump. Mr. Bratton sneaked down, but they are mighty shy & off they went, & I suppose that they are running yet. The mule that Mr. S. rode, he would have ridden, when he arrived at the springs, 58 miles in 29 hours. It was a small mare mule, and he told me had been trying to tire her out these last two years, but could not succeed. He left us about 11 o'clock. It was extremely warm today. We had dinner about 3 o'clock & prepared for our long march. The last thing we did was to fill our cask & water our animals, &fillourselves. We started on the road at 4 o'clock. We went a good jog, and expected to travel till 12 or 1 o'clock. The road, as usual, was good but extremely dusty. After sunset it was very dark. It began to be tedious about 9 o'clock and we had to resort to a social meeting on horseback to keep us awake. I did not feel very well but had to stand it. We passed what we took to be No. 4 campground, which Mr. Skill105

Overland to California man told us was 3 miles this side of the Army camp, about 11 o'clock. We travelled till 1 o'clock and I felt like stopping. When we did stop, we did not think of supper, but laying down on mother earth, were asleep in a moment. It was 1 o'clock when we halted for the night. Saturday, August 18th. I was aroused this morning from a delicious sleep to aid in preparing breakfast. We were off at 7 o'clock. We soon came up to where the Army was encamped. The grass was burnt. Some miles further on, we saw where the ox train had encamped. The first part of the road was good, opening on an extensive prairie somewhat on the rolling order. We were nearing the mountains that we have seen in the distance. The day was warm & the dust was most suffocating the oxen. After we had travelled about 13 miles we came abreast of the rugged mountains into a valley. The road here was very bad, being loose stones & deep sand. This continued for 2 or 3 miles, when we again struck a good road. About 1 o'clock we came up to where the Army had encamped, but the water was nothing more than a mud hole, hardly drinkable. Messrs. Van Bibber & Lawson of our mess went on, we supposed, in search of better water. Messrs. Brooks & Leavy went on about 3 miles ahead and said that there were marks of an encampment but that the water was all drank up. Notwithstanding the quality of the water, the oxen and horses drank as if they would burst. This has been our longest march without water, & 35 miles on an open prairie is enough for ox teams. The grass here is good. It grew cloudy about the time we arrived here & remained so all the afternoon. We went rabbit hunting but were unsuccessful. We found a cleaner hole of water where we got some water for drinking. There can be little or no water here in a very dry time. I think there is not enough of water here to supply French's train. It looked as if it would rain before 106

on the Southwestern Trail morning. Van & Lawson did [not] return. Some of the boys saw the encampment from the top of a hill, about 5 miles off in a direct. Sunday, August 19th. A portion of our mess were on guard last night. My watch came on from 1 to 3 o'clock. I, after it was over, slept like a top till I was aroused to breakfast. We made an early start & wound our way through the hills. We tried to make a short cut where there was a waggon trail, but we had to strike for the road again, which was more rolling and stony than usual. Van Bibber & Lawson met us about 3 miles from our starting point. They had made a short cut across the hill & thus missed the water hole. They said that the encampment was 7 or 8 miles from where we camped, & that the Army were going on 7 miles this morning, & then they would have to make a stretch of 40 miles without water, & that they were going to make a part of it this afternoon. We thought they were pushing the business but say we go it. We came to the spot where Army camped last night. The fires were still burning & any quantity of wood about. The water was from springs and we crossed the stream before we located ourselves. This is Sunday, but alas, what a contrast with those I passed formerly. There is nothing here to remind the wanderer of this sacred day excepting the dates of the pages of a journal— the Sabbath bells followed by the silent tread of the Christian as he plods his way to the house of prayer. After dinner we greased our waggon, filled our cask, & prepared to start. Mr. Adams shot a deer this morning, but was unable to find him. Some of the Californians that were here when our foremost men came up, they said that it was 10 miles to the next water. We started about IY2 o'clock. We drove along an ox we picked up. He was rather poor, but nothing else seemed to ail him. After travelling about 7 miles, we came to a campground and found 107

Overland to California mile. It did not look as if the a little water at the distance of whole train had camped here, so our boys determined to push on. So on we went and, after travelling a couple of miles & still not finding water, we began to feel a little ticklish, for should we have been on the 40-mile stretch, having travelled 7 before, and our oxen not being watered since morning. We entered into a valley which a person would never dreamed that the road would run. I rode off the road & found a little water, but the train received intelligence that their was water ahead, & so we went on, & soon we came to a stream. We turned our course nearly south & after going ahead for quarter of a mile, we camped in a beautiful & romantic spot, close to water & an abundance of grass. Our road this afternoon lay through the most beautiful valley that it has been my pleasure to have seen since I been in Texas. Its breadth is from % to a mile in breadth, and extended for about 7 miles before we left it & at least for two or 3 miles further. The grass was beautifully green, handsomely shaded by richer streaks of chapparel. The mountains look noble, shaded by the rich iron rocks which sometimes stand in perpendicular stratas peeping from their green beds. The ore is distributed on the inclinations and makes a rich contrast, from its dark brown color, with the verdure. A stream of water runs at the foot of the mountains at the right of the road. A few trees, the largest we have seen for some time, mark its course. There is a prairie dog village to the left of the road about 3 miles. Mr. Brooks shot some of them, but they got down their holes. The grazing through the whole valley is excellent although the ground is covered with indications of iron. After travelling for about 7 miles, we left this valley & entered a gorge in the mountains to the left, and our road turned to the south. In crossing the stream where we first struck it, the wheels went in over the hubs & the oxen up to their 108

on the Southwestern Trail shoulders. This valley is the only place since we left the settlements where I would like to settle. The only drawback is the ground would not be the best for farming purposes, but for a stock farm it would be excellent. As I rode through, I exclaimed with the poet, "Give me a cot in the valley I love." The sun went down over the hills soon after we arrived at our campground, & after a meal we went to enjoy ourselves in unconsciousness. The ox that we drove up we left with cattle, most of which were left unhobbled, as we were handsomely hemmed in. Distance from last campground where we nooned, 11 miles. Monday, August 20th. We arose at a comfortable hour this morning, as we did not intend to start this afternoon, even should we have to go the 40-mile stretch, but some of our boys (or, in other words, Mr. Thompson & myself, & I called his attention to it first) saw the Army up the valley, from 2 to 3 miles. We espied some of our oxen lying in the grass. We ate breakfast and then proceeded to find our cattle & horses, & our beef. But the latter was missing, & it was not till after Mr. Jones & I went out, after half a dozen had returned unsuccessful. We, however, proceeded scientifically. I went straight to the last place where I saw him last & soon found where he had lain down. We then followed his trail for some time. Jones got off the trail on to the road. I, however, followed it up, & the first thing I knew, I got into a swamp up to the tops of my boots. I saw where the trail went, but thought I would walk as little as I could through the water. I went around a bunch of chapparel when friend Jones, who was ahead, uttered a cry of triumph & sure enough, we found our beef hiding in the tall grass. We drove him near the camp. We then tried him by a jury & passed sentence of death on him. Six executioners then walked, two with guns, one with an axe, two with hatchets, three with knives, one with a pail—to the fatal spot, but Mr. Ox did not like the place, & it was not till after two 109

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California

or three good chases that we brought him to the ground. We were employed the rest of the forenoon in dressing him, and at one o'clock we had an abundance of fresh meat, which we commenced on for dinner, & it didn't go slow. We prepared the rest for jerking, & were thus employed during the afternoon. When our job was finished I took a delicious bath, put on clean clothes throughout which, however, only consists of shirt, pants & stockings & put my dirty clothes (I could not even, should I wish to be polite, say soiled) to soak in the stream. Messrs. Young & Conry went to the Army camp to find out something about our road, &c. When they returned they said that the 40-mile stretch was a humbug, & that we follow up this stream for 3 or 4 days, that the Engineers were close on hand, cutting their way through the mountains. They reported the distance to be only 150 miles to El Paso, but I am afraid it is too good to be true. A party, consisting of Mr. Howard, the guide,10 Mr. Edwards, of Jones' waggon, & several others, had started on to go through to the Pass. They took only 4 days' provision. We had after supper a meeting for the purpose of electing a president, &c. Mr. Jones was called to the chair. The secretary called the roll & found 16 members present. The minutes of last meeting were read & accepted. A motion was adopted that Mr. Brown be requested to resign, & a committee of three consisting of Messrs. Thompson, Conry & also Mr. Harrington. Mess No. 2 were then considered as having abandoned the Association. The question of electing a captain: I moved that before that was done we should define the business of the captain. When it was carried & a committee of three, Messrs. Adams, Bratton, & Thompson, when we adjourned till tomorrow at a convenient. We then had a social meeting, Mr. Conry in the 10 Richard A. "Dick" Howard, a civilian guide with considerable trail-blazing experience and a reputation for a cool head in dealing with Indians.

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on the Southwestern Trail chair. We spent a pleasent time & retired at a good hour, all satisfied. Tuesday, August 21st. The nights begin to be quite cool, & as a person gets up they think it time to put up your stove. After breakfast I went to the stream & washed my clothes in style worthy of a laundress. I then hung them up to dry, & proceeded to write in my too much neglected journal. My brother & Mr. Sileckson paid us a visit. They could not tell exactly when the Army would start, but thought tomorrow. The distance they said was 170 miles to the Pass. They enquired the particulars about the buffalo that we had captured, & we kept up the delusion started by Messrs. Conry & Young on the preceeding evening. I was glad to find my brother well, as the last time I left him at the water holes he was very unwell. The next campground is 12 miles from the Army & about 14 from here. I boiled some beef for dinner, but notwithstanding four hours boiling, it was not done. After dinner we boiled her again, and it done up brown for supper. I was employed in mending my clothes during a part of the afternoon, which however, I did not finish. We have not succeeded in capturing any game here excepting our buffalo. After supper an adjourned meeting was called & after other little business Mr. Thompson was elected captain. There was some other business transacted and the meeting adjourned. The Presidio humbugs, including Mess No. 2 & a lot of pack fools or I should of said mules, came trudging along this afternoon. Their excuse was that their interpreter wouldn't serve. Parson looked anything but amiable. They would not condescend to camp with us, & I was mighty glad of it. French's is 11 miles back at the campground. The Army, I hear, are running short for provision, & also some of the Californians. They expect to get through in about 16 days. I understand that another government train has left San Antonio de Bexar and is now

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Overland to California six or seven days out. It consists entirely of mule teams & will reach the Pass almost as soon as we. Wednesday, August 22nd. By mounting our hill, we perceived that the Army were not yet preparing to start. We heard from the Army that they were going to start in the morning, & that the waggons would have to be let down the mountain by means of ropes. There were several men from the Army looking after mules & oxen. I tried to stop a mule that crossed the stream as I was performing my conventions but neither I nor any of the boys succeeded. There has been no excitement of any consequence. It clouded up during the afternoon, but rained but little. The owner of the mule that passed us this morning came in search of it. We directed him in the direction it took, but he returned unsuccessful. He offered $5 for its recovery, & Messrs. Bratton & Chapman went to try their luck, but returned with no better success. They saw a portion of French's train on the road some distance back. Thompson, the express rider, came up. He said that but 10 waggons of French's train were coming up to the rest of the command with provision. From the reports this afternoon there is doubts about the Army starting in the morning. Our mess will no doubt have the pleasure of standing guard tonight. Thursday, August 23rd. I passed the first part of the night rather uncomfortably. The mosquitoes were very pointed in their arguments. Also a train of ox waggons that made a terrible racket. At 11 o'clock I was called on guard, and this capped the climax. Between the expiration of my watch & breakfast time I tried to make up for lost time. We had a social meeting last evening, Mr. Conry in the chair. Our meeting was interrupted by an order to the 2nd Lieutenant Chapman from Mr. Harrington. It was that we should repair to their ground at 6 o'clock this morning, as it would be necessary 112

on the Southwestern Trail for the state of the road ahead to be all together. It was signed by order of the Captain, W. M. Harrington, 1st lieutenant. It was a rich affair. Yankee was the bearer, but he had accomplices no doubt, as we heard singular noises which were a warning for him to return. Chapman sent back a verbal answer which was not of the most polite nature. Colonel Hays came down to our camp, looking for oxen. He said that the Army were starting, & we therefore commenced to fix for starting; in a little better than an hour we were on the road. It's tolerable good to where the Army had camped. Some Californians were still on the ground. After leaving the Army camp we soon turned our course more westward, entering a smaller valley. We then changed our course to nearly what it was first, & commenced ascending, & we went up tolerable high hills, which were worse to get down, being those that it was reported we would have our waggons to let down by ropes. We got down in safety. We still had a very rough road through what is called the Devils Pass. (This pass that I called the Devils Pass is the Pass of the Roses,11 but perhaps, if I may be allowed to be a little impolite, I might say it was a Devil of a Pass.) We crossed the stream something less than 100 times, parts of which were quite soft enough. We passed through a valley, rough of itself, but surrounded by mountains showing formidable fronts. One of the mountains opposite where the Army camped last night was measured by the Engineers and was 1900 feet high. We passed a stone placed upright along side the road, just this side of the steep hill. On it was roughly engraved 451, being the number of miles from San Antonio. We caught up with Jones, No. 3, & 4. There is a bad spot just before we got to the campground. No. 8 ran foul of a rock and broke their front axle near the shoulder. They dispatched two u

Wild Rose Pass, in the Davis Mountains, a short distance northeast of the present Fort Davis.

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Overland to California of the mess to the last campground where there were two axles left. We were not within % mile of the Army mule train, but the ox corral was just the other side of the stream. The Army travelled 11 miles, & we 13 miles today. There is all kind of reports concerning our route. One of the most reliable is that we will go 40 miles, & then strike Rio Grande & travel up it, 100 miles to the Pass. Friday, August 24th. The boys had an attempt at a social meeting last night after I had retired to my couch. It was quite cold during the night, and I did not sleep very comfortably. There was a light in a tent close to us all night, which was an indication that there was gambling going on. We had a good breakfast off of buffalo jerked. The Army commenced preparing for a start. It is rumored that they are going from 4 to 6 miles today. No. 8's men returned with their axle. It is a good stick, unfinished. We are going to wait till they get ready to start. No. 2, 3, 4 & Jones have gone on. No. 2 are all ready down on Mr. Creary, but they richly deserve it, as they knew him before they took him, and only did so because he had a little money, which, in the words of Parson Brown, he would cozen around him to obtain a share. They have sold out nearly everything, yet with 3 yoke of oxen & an empty waggon they cannot take along a pair of small blankets weighing about 4 lbs, but they are religious & charitable. French's train is at the last campground. We started at 2 o'clock, although No. 8's axle was not completed. We came through a good road and most beautiful scenery. This part of the country is indeed charming. A beautiful lake lay to the left of the road. The mountains and hills, the former in the background with their rough tops, & the smothe [ ?] hills nearer, were grand. In company with some others, I rode in advance of our train, & soon got to our destination. I improved the time by gathering wood, and then rested myself by lying 114

on the Southwestern Trail on the grass till the waggons came up. We camped between Boorman's & French's trains, the latter having passed us just before we started. We were all on the stream, the headwaters of which I hear are only about a mile above. We passed through a large prairie dog village. No. 3 shot 3 of them, which they had for supper. They are very hard to get even after you shoot them, as they will crawl down into their holes, & if unable to do this, another will pull him in. After supper I climbed part of the way up the hill, at the foot of which was the stream from which we have been using its grateful waters. I could view the whole of the encampments & the country for miles. It was a fine sight. We travelled about 5 miles this afternoon. This stream is called Aroia Limpia," or Clear Water. It said that there is a cornfield about a mile to the right of this campground. The first order we heard was that we should start at 3 o'clock tomorrow, but the latest that stock water has been found 14 miles ahead, and that the train is off at sunup. Mr. Bratton caught us a mess offish,called by Texians sun perch. They are northern sun fish. Saturday, August 25th. We were up before the sun & went to work till breakfast time, which being discussed in a manner worthy of hungry men. After breakfast we filled our cask, greased our waggon, packed the same, got up the oxen, & were off in a few shakes of a dead dog's tail. My brother & I stopped some time behind the waggons, & caught them rolling at a good rate, 5 or 6 miles from campground. The road was good and the weather cool & bracing. All moved fine. The road lay through either one large, or a succession of smaller, dogs' towns. They would yelp as we rode along, but dared not show themselves. The scenery was beautiful, & the hills topped with lighter stone, contrasted with the deep croppings of the iron district. We u

Limpia Creek, which flows through Wild Rose Pass.

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Overland to California started at % past 7 o'clock, & reached the campground before 1 o'clock, having travelled 14 miles in a little over 5 hours. This is about our best travelling, but the road was excellent. We camped about mile this side of the water near some live oak trees whose grateful shade protected us from the violence of the sun. The water was so muddy that our horses could hardly drink it. The guard stationed there would not allow our oxen in. We had an excellent dinner on our jerked beef. The ox train moved in, and No. 2, 3, 4, & Jones. We determined not to move, as No. 8 came up late & had travelled 5 miles further than we. Mr. Adams & I went out to shoot some dogs, but notwithstanding all our endeavours we were unsuccessful. When we came home we got some biscuit & toasted bacon, making an excellent evening meal. We went to bed determined to be up and doing on the morrow. Sunday, August 26th. The mule train was in motion early this morning. Mr. Adams discovered some clear water about a mile from our camp. After breakfast we took our cattle & horses, where they satisfied their thirst. We rather headed the Army here & started, able, if necessary, to make a long march without water. We rolled on at a good rate. The country was more rolling than usually, & not quite as smooth. We had one tolerable large hill to come over. We saw the end of the mule train as we came to the 10 mile watering place. The water is to right of the road & it was the most delightful place to get down to I have ever ventured. It was at the risk of our cattle & horses' legs, & our own, that we watered them, the water being some 50 or 60 feet down through nearly perpendicular rocks. There was several mortars cut out of solid rock here, & some Indian hierogliphics on a large tree near the spot. It looked cloudy & began to rain soon after we arrived here. We determined to stop & noon it a while, & therefor went about getting dinner. No. 8, who seem to be very unlucky, did not 116

on the Southwestern Trail come up till some time after, as they broke their king bolt. We sat down to dinner in the rain, but when about half through it came on so violently that we were forced under our waggon to finish our meal. It rained for about an hour & then gave us a chance to start, although we expected more before night. The road this afternoon was one of the worst we have travelled since we began our journey. It was over a rolling country covered with loose stone of all sizes. The oxen's feet suffered extremely & the waggons were well shaken. Excepting Devils River, this has been our worst road. We came to a couple of mud holes after travelling about 6 miles. It was thundering & lightening all the afternoon, with occasional showers enough to wet a person till he was sufficiently satisfied. When about 6 miles further we met Messrs. Bratten & Adams at a line of brush & wood. They said that the Army had passed the Engineers & did not know where they were, nor anything about it, that they sent runners out & found water in the mountains some 4 or 5 miles from the road. They also told us that there was a little water, enough for us, about a mile to the right, and that some of the Californians had camped there. As there was no wood, we put in a supply for a couple of days. It was raining pretty fast as we turned to the left at nearly right angles to the road. After travelling a good mile we halted & went to work getting supper, pitching out tent, &c., it raining brisk. After we got our tent up we felt more comfortable; after supper the rain held up for a while. There is a report that a dozen of foot Indians were seen in some valley about here. The wind began to blow hard as we were folding our blankets around us, but we closed the doors & went to sleep. Thus closed another Sabbath on the prairie where the sound of a church-going bell has been never heard. Distance about 23 miles. Monday, August 27th. We passed the night comfortably & arose a little after sunrise. It looked as if the rain was over & we 117

Overland to California brought our bedding & blankets out to let them dry. We also uncovered our waggon to let the sun have a chance there. The rest of the Californians, excepting the Matagorda Company, left us this morning to join the Engineers. No. 3 & Jones were encamped about a mile & a half from us, but had to move their oxen to our holes. They also left this morning. I thought we had left entirely the district of dogs, but found a small village about % mile from our camp. I tried to get one, but they are too shy. I shot a screech owl & returned home to attend to some odd jobs that must be seen to where such opportunities occur. Among other things, I took up my journal. About noon we perceived the Army train issuing from the mountains to the right of the road, & we commenced preparations for a start. Before 1 o'clock we were on the road, travelling at a good rate. In company with Mr. Young we rode in advance of the waggons. We passed the ox train & found the mule train encamping in a niche in the mountains where it was said there was a little water. The ox train halted within about "a mile of the mountains to await further orders. The orders came to go on & strike, if possible, the Engineer trail, which we passed about half way from where we encamped. It crossed the road going to the left. The ox train now turned the same way, at nearly right angles to the road. They were travelling, not knowing how far it was to water, or anything else. Such work is indeed a disgrace, not only to the Army but to the United States. There is, it is said, considerable enmity existing between Major Van Horn & Colonel Johnson of the Engineer Corps. The former is closing in upon the latter before the road is redy & thus the fruits, travelling out of the way, hunting water here & there, dividing the train, & putting us to a considerable inconvenience who they have invited to accompany them. Captain Thompson returned & reported that they had been some 4 or 5 miles ahead, & that there were no signs of 118

on the Southwestern Trail water as far as he had gone. Unluckily, our cask had little or no water. We went on & again rode in advance of our waggons & ahead of the ox train. After travelling about 9 miles from where we turned off, I discovered a hole of water, the ground about which was very soft. The guard mule waggon, which was in advance of the train,filledtheir cask & watered their mules & horses with a pail. I took the bridle off my horse to await the arrival of our waggons, as there was sufficient water for us. The train, although moving quite fast, took some time to pass, & then came the broken down oxen, & after which should have come our waggons, but they were not there. On enquiring, I learnt that the boys had camped 3 or 4 miles back. I put the bridle on my horse & was soon on a brisk trot turning my face, however disagreeable it might be, backwards. I met Captain Boorman & escort on the road, and, afterwards, a couple of mule waggons. I soon got to our waggons & found nearly all the boys in their bunks. I found Mr. Lawson going into some biscuits & bacon. He was in same situation as myself. He had been in about ten minutes when I came home. I joined in the repast, & afterwards fixed my bed & lay down for the night, which promised to be a cool one. Van Bibber returned from the same sort of a cruise about % an hour after I. We all concluded that the waggons might have travelled a little further. We struck the Engineer trail a little back of our encampment, which was about 6 miles from our turning off point. We travelled altogether about 16 miles today. Tuesday, August 28th. We were up early & fixed up our waggon, got our oxen, and had travelled about a mile before sunrise. We had the heavyest dew last night since I have been in Texas. Ourflywas completely saturated, & water might easily be rung out of the grass. This was good for our cattle. We started without breakfast, as we had no water, and left No. 1 & 8 together

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Overland to California with the cow man on the ground. We travelled fast and soon got to the water where we prepared breakfast and did ample justice to it. We found a nice little hole of water where no animals had been in, and here wefilledour cask. As we came here, the end of the ox train were just leaving, they having camped here all night. Mr. Adams tried to get a shot at some antelopes that he saw in valley, but they were too much afraid. A man going back to the command said he had been within a few miles of the Rio Grande, which was 35 miles off, & that 15 from where we were there was a running stream, half as large as the Pecos, & that the Engineers were camped here. The rest of the waggons came up & watered their cattle. We greased our waggon & again made a start. We were, however, behind some distance, but soon caught up to them. The road now became bad, and it was equal to that of last Sunday, excepting it was not rolling. It was a plain covered with Spanish dagger, or sword plant, & other shrubbery, filled with loose stones extending ten or twelve miles. We saw the train about 6 miles distant, encamped. We gathered some wood & put it on the back of our waggons, as it was reported there was no wood where the water was. We passed the camp, which was about a mile and a half from water. We camped near some other Californians, although none of our boys. We found a muddy stream or prairie creek. It fell, we were told, a couple of feet since yesterday; in a few days more there will be little or no water here. The mule train came up before sundown. The rest of our company camped down the creek about 2 miles. The grass is poor here. Wednesday, August 29th. It was pleasent last night, being much warmer than usual. We found that the Army had changed quarters and got down the creek a couple of miles in advance of us. Some of our horses had strayed considerable distances, & it 120

on the Southwestern Trail took some time to find them, but they were in search of good grass. We soon espied a string of waggons making for the stream. They seemed to come at the foot of the mountains. It was French's train, coming a different road. Captain Thompson & Mr. Bratton went on to see the prospects. They returned a little before noon with orders to move. We were off sudenly on our winding way. We arrived where Boorman's ox train were camped, & the rest of the Californians, at an early hour, about 12 miles from where we started. We camped on high ground near the road, as the soil is soft, and, if it should come on to rain, it would be difficult to get out of the valley. The water was some distance off. The grass is better here than at our last camp. We received intelligence here from El Paso, by the arrival of Captain Allen. The distance has now increased to 160 or 170 miles from here, 90 miles to Rio Grande, & 70 from there up. Mexican carts loaded with corn are waiting for the train on the Rio Grande. Four hundred waggons have passed through El Paso. Mules & provision are high, but clothing low. Lieutenant O'Brien had an engagement with the Apache Indians, who were well armed. He went through in 41 days, & lay by 11 out of that number. The accounts from the gold region is good, & there is a report that there is plenty of gold on the Gila.13 Mr. Edwards & party arrived safe. Thursday, August 30th. We rose early, as we determined last evening to slip, if possible, after the Engineer train. They passed us about 7 o'clock, but our cattle had strayed considerable during the night & were not ready. We had a regular norther last night & this morning it was extremely cold. When about ready to start Lieutenants Whistler" & Mason with orders from Major 13 Reports of gold in abundance on the Gila River were published in Texas and in the East as early as May, 1849. See Niles' National Register, vol. LXXV, p. 348 (May 30,1849).

" Brevet First Lieutenant Joseph N. G. Whistler, of the Third Infantry.

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Overland to California Van Horn for all the Californians to fall in the rear of the ox train. This was a damper. The Infantry soon came up, & the Major & Captain Boorman. Upon expostulation, we got permission, [to go ahead] on condition that we could help & open the road. We consented & again made an attempt at a start, in which we were successful, notwithstanding the rain & wind which the animals did not care about facing. The road was only tolerable. At about 2 o'clock we arrived at the 10 mile water, which the Engineer train were just leaving. We stopped to noon, as we understood we had 30 miles to go without water. We started again after a couple of hours' rest. The water here is in three tanks dug by the Engineers, about y± mile to the left of the road. It still continued cold. The road was a little better this afternoon. We did not arrive at the campground till some time after dark. As well as I could see, the grass for the last two or three miles was burnt off quite short, & the road for this distance extremely level & good. The pioneers of our mess had a nicefirebuilt and a place picked out for our bed. Thefirefelt good, as it grew cold towards night. We had an excellent supper, consisting of bacon, biscuit, rice, & coffee. We spread our fly to protect us from the rain & were soon in our bunks. Distance 19 miles. Friday, August 31st. I never experienced as cold weather for August in my life. We, however, slept pretty comfortable & were up & doing early. We started close after the Engineer train. We followed them up close & nooned after travelling 9 miles. The norther still continued & the weather was very disagreable. The Engineers' mules have given out and they talk of resting tomorrow. We followed up the valley till near the water, when we turned to left & went in a gap in the mountain. We camped, according to orders, about 150 yards from the Engineers. The water was about half a mile from our camp down a pretty ugly place, to which were several Indian trails. It is a spring, but there 122

on the Southwestern Trail is but a small supply of water. As it looked like rain, we put up our tent to make ourselves comfortable. Distance 13 miles. Saturday, September 1st. I had considerable trouble in finding my horse this morning. I let him loose when we came yesterday, and before dark went to look for him but was unable tofindhim, there being so many gulleys & valleys that it was not an easy job. I travelled about ten miles, half in the saddle & the rest on foot, before I heard he was up to camp. I was tired out completely before I turned on the road towards our destination. We kept up close to the mountain. The road was not good. The mule train arrived before I left the campground, which was some time after our train left. We entered a gap in the mountain, turning to the left, after travelling about 7 or 8 miles. We passed No. 2 & 4, who stopped to noon, & soon came to a little water on the right, off the road about 50 yds. We all watered our horses but the water was so muddy that they did not drink freely. No. 1 & 8 stopped to water their cattle, while we rolled on. I noticed some mezquite bushes, which we have not seen for some time. We passed through a country thick with Spanish daggers standing on trunks from 4 to 15 ft. high. The fruit of this plant is not unpalatable, being something like a yam. They are considerably eaten by the emmigrants. They are hard to find in an eatable state, generally being either too green or decayed. Some of our boys pick them while green & keep them till ripe. There is also a quantity of bear grass among the daggers. We could see the camp some distance off, but did not arrive at it till after dark. The latter part of the road was good. The country was now more open. Some antelope & what were supposed to be mountain goat were seen, but none killed today. We watered our cattle, or rather, some of them out of a pail with some water we carried in India rubber bags. Two of the oxen refused the water, not understanding the pail business. We only 123

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used one bag, about 20 gallons. Our camp was in a tolerable thick chapparel. Distance today 18 miles, and a tedious march at that. The mules of the Engineer train were unable to proceed, it being the intention to go to the foot of the mountain where the grazing was much better. We heard the pleasing intelligence, after we got here, that it was only 14 miles more to the river. Sunday, September 2nd. I was awakened this morning by the howling of wolves & the barking of our neighbours' dogs. I think the dogs were the worst. It rained a little during the night, enough to wet the grass, it also rained after we arose. The train was slow in getting off & we started close on their heels, but they soon left us again. They stopped, about five miles from where we started, to wait till the road was opened. We stopped likewise & prepared a little dinner. We gave the other bag of water to our thirsty oxen & all now drank. We also gave our horses two or three swallows. The grass was excellent, it being grama grass, the best we have come across yet. I rode a short way on and found the road followed a dry ravine through the mountains. The cattle & horses soon discovered the ravine & off they went, following it down. We all started after them & headed them off about two miles below. They were almost mad for want of water. After an hour and a half the mule train was in motion & we prepared for a start also. The road lay through the bed of the stream, which was sandy & gravelly. Occasionally the road would leave the stream where the valley permitted. The oxen were hard to manage, being dry, & the stones hurting their feet. We left the stream after about 4 miles travelling and got up on high ground, having passed the ridge of mountains between two gulleys. The road was pretty good in comparison. We again descended & got into another dry aroia which we followed down to the Engineer camp. I was a little in advance of our waggon and found that the water was some way distant 124

on the Southwestern Trail yet. It was extremely boggy, & I met a man leading his horse carrying a shovel. He had to dig his horse out. We camped nearer the water than the Engineer train. The place was not the river, but a pond where we obtained our water & watered our stock. The river, which we saw some miles back, was a little beyond, with steep banks from 4 to 6 ft high. The water looks much like that of the Pecos, fully as muddy, but not so brackish. It was a welcome sight where we first saw the Rio Grande del Norte, the great River of the North, so celebrated in the late history of America. It was a period in our journey, & we have looked for it with pleasure. The Mexican carts, or Coon carts, we heard, were 12 miles up the river. Some pack mule Californians that left us about where we killed the buffalo, passed this place today, they having just got through the mountains. The river was 50 to 100 yds. wide in some places, having two channels, & between islands of sand. We were all tired with our day's travel, & after a supper of bacon, biscuit, coffee, our old standbys, we lay us down to rest while the moon was throwing its beautiful light over our little encampment. Distance 15 miles.

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Along the Rio Grande and in the Valley of El Paso

Monday, September 3. We did not rise very early this morning, that we might rest ourselves. The Engineers, contrary to our expectation, started this morning. They were only going, we understood, about 12 miles to the corn waggons. We thought for a while &finallyconcluded to go too, as it was an extremely bad place to water our cattle. The grass also was pretty well used up. We did not get off till about 9 o'clock, but No. 2 & 4 started much earlier. Unlucky for me, my pony sprained his ankle yesterday afternoon while I was watering him. I did not discover it till this morning. In consequence of this, I am what the boys call on the walking committee. The road was extremely bad for thefirst2 or 3 miles, & sandy the whole way, so at best it was heavy pulling & hard walking. We met some corn waggons, 4 in number, about 2 miles from camp. They were very large & high waggons, capable of carrying from 4 to 5,000 lbs. They left some corn where we passed them, & came on, passing us in return. They each drove 5 span of mules, nearly all condemed government mules. They stopped to noon about 7 or 8 miles from where we started. No. 2 & 4 were on the ground. It was an extremely hot morning & we spread our fly to protect ourselves from the sun. We used the river water cleaned with the prickly pear. We had a smart shower just as we were eating dinner, & our fly did not come amiss. We took advantage of the coolness of the air & started off. We came up to the Engineer camp when the sun was about an hour high, & after consultation we concluded to push on, they 127

Overland to California not being able to water their mules without buckets. We were now ahead of the Engineers & we thought ourselves smart. We have now occupied nearly every position that we could in the great train. We have been behind both trains, between Captains Boorman & French's trains, ahead of the Captain B.'s, and behind the Engineers, & now ahead of the Engineers themselves. The road was better than this morning, but still heavy. We got to camp at % past 9 o'clock, after another hard march. We camped in tall grass & some large trees stood around. There was a good place to water our cattle & horses. We found most all the Californians here, & the corn waggons stopped a little below, where there were a number more that had not gone further down. Distance today 18 miles about. Tuesday, September 4th. We did not intend to travel today, as both our cattle & our worthy selves were tired out. The rest of the Californians, together with 2 & 4, rolled out while we were laying off. The grass here is poor, and that is the only drawback to the ground. There are plenty of ducks about here, but hard to get at. Nothing exciting happened today. The Engineers passed us about 10 o'clock this morning. Our boys killed a mess of birds, some young ducks & quails, &c., which went fine for supper, as we have been without fresh meat for some time. Our supper was late, & after it we retired, wishing to make an early start on the morrow. Wednesday, September 5th. Before sunup some time we were on our legs, preparing for a start. It promised a warm day, & it so seemed about 11 o'clock when we were travelling at a couple of knots pr. hour. We camped, after travelling 8 miles, where a couple of Mexican carts were stopping with onions, apples & grapes. We stopped under a large cottonwood tree, whose grateful shade was pleasant indeed. The water was considerable distance off, nearly % mile. We indulged in a couple of onions for 128

on the Southwestern Trail dinner, fried, and they were delicious. They alone removed the monotony of our victuals and gave tone to our dinner. These onions (large white) are the finest I ever saw, excepting at agricultural fairs. They are modest enough to ask only a bit a piece for them. The apples look small but I did not indulge in tasting any of them. Messrs. Wood & Lingram of Mess No. 3 came up while we were at dinner with about 40 birds of various kindsducks, quails, curlews, &c., of all sizes. After nooning spell of a couple of horn's we were again on our winding way. It clouded up just as the train started. A few drops of rain were the consequence. The atmosphere was cooled. Our road this afternoon was better than usual, and through a handsome country. Large cottonwoods, with now and then a willow, adorned our path. Large trees were indeed pleasent to the view, after travelling over vast prairies where a tree cannot be found for miles and miles sufficient to cast a shadow to save the traveller from the sun. We expected, when we started, to go 12 miles, but we found water about 8 miles, & it looked very dark. We thought it best to camp, as we heard that at the campground 4 miles ahead, we would have to go V2 mile to the water. The water here was occasioned by the rain that must have fell in considerable quantity. It was very muddy, but not worse than Grande water. No. 3 & Jones passed us & went on. It looked much like rain when we turned in. Distance 16 miles. There is several reports of Indian depredations afloat. Thursday, September 6th. Sun had not yet arisen when we sat down to breakfast. It did not rain during the night as we expected. We were off tolerable early & travelled pretty fast. We passed the last Engineer camp which was, however, on another road which branched off. There were several Mexican fruit carts stopping there, & others went on to meet the train. I tasted some of the grapes, which were very fine, though small. Captain

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Overland to California Thompson, Messrs. Bratton, Van Bibber, &c., went ahead to find a place to noon. After travelling about 8 or 9 miles, we set out ourselves to look for water, & soon found a pond about 250 yds. to the right of the road. The water was pretty fair, filled with bullfrogs. There was only 2 of Mess No. 1, & 4 of our mess. No. 8 was behind some distance & did not follow our trail, but went on. We prepared dinner for all hands, but sat down alone. After dinner we prepared to start, having filled our casks, not knowing how much further we should have to go before we could obtain it. It was cool, as a fresh wind was blowing at our backs, & we travelled fast. After going about 4 miles, we found No. 8 & the rest of the boys, & we hauled in for the night. The sun was about an hour high when we reached the ground. There was a couple of fruit carts here, but they left soon after we arrived. The proprietor was a Californian making a speculation. He told us of a great many Indian scrapes of the Apaches, fifteen in number, coming to El Paso in broad daylight & driving off horses & mules, &c. He proved himself very loquacious, & to believe half what he said would be sufficient. Distance 14 miles, water in ponds. Friday, September 7th. Stanmore, who encamped near us last night, made a much earlier start than we were able to do, as it took considerable time to find our oxen. We started ahead, leaving No. 1 & 8 on the ground. Our road lay along what is called Old River, an old bed, partially dry, of the Rio Grande. Part of the road would have been extremely dangerous to have driven over at night. It sometimes touched close to a perpendicular bank of some 10 or 15 ft. We camped, or rather nooned, about 9 miles this side of the first settlement. There was a Mexican cart here with fruit. We heard the train would soon be up & hurried to get out of their way. We luxuriated in some onions which we bought for much less than before. The country was handsome 130

on the Southwestern Trail through which we passed, part being a forest of large trees. We camped, after travelling about 4 or 5 miles, near where there was a corral for goats & sheep. This was the first stationary signs of civilization we have come across. There were some of the troops that have been with the Engineers that were ordered back. I have heard that several men have already deserted. We tied our horses close to us in the wood, & also on account of men deserting, &c., wanting horses to take them away. We passed some fine mezquite bushes and I gave my horse a plentiful meal of beans. Distance 15 miles. Saturday, September 8th. Last evening, just as we were about retiring, Captain Boorman, Colonel Hays, the Surgeon of the Army, & other of the gentry passed us on their way to the 1st settlement. After we retired a couple of soldiers came along, one about as drunk as he could be, & the other acting as guard, having a musket. The prisoner, when opposite our waggon, made a stand & refused to go any further on any conditions. The guard brought to mind their friendly intercourse heretofore, & used all manner of persuasion, but our hero was immoveable, & the only conditions that he would proceed on were to have the musket in his own hands. This was refused, and our hero next desired the guard to wait while he took a comfortable smoke. He consented, but pipes were scarce about them. The guard at last threatened to report him, which piece of information he did not relish, & after a few more dry Irish jokes which called forth successive bursts of laughter, our hero went his way. The guard had been since 11 o'clock getting him from the town. We found our stock after a little search, & our waggon again took the lead. We wished, if possible, to keep out of the way of the train. Major Van Horn & some other officers passed us on the road. They were making for town. The road was good & we rolled on. The Infantry came up to us before we reached it. 131

Overland to California About 10 o'clock we entered Presidio,1 the first settlement, after being for nearly 3 months out of the pale of civilization, although I was one of 4 of our Association who were at Vanenburg some 10 days after we passed through with the train. It was pleasant to see houses, even though they were made of mud. This town, I learn, contains 3 or 4000 inhabitants. The houses are built of mud & rough timber. The walls are not exactly plumb, but they are just as comfortable inside as if they were. The walls are about 10 ft. high & the houses contain but one story. Their fences are also made of mud, about four ft. high, & then taper to a point. The general appearance of the houses & fences is that of free stone, although the mud is hardly dark enough. The windows of the aristocracy are sometimes ornamented with carved wood grating, &c. Trees loaded with fruit might be seen in every garden, & baskets of the same at nearly every door. What I supposed to be the Catholic Church stood to the left of the road, having a steeple something like that of a castle. I did not alight as we passed through, it being my turn to stay near our waggon. I noticed a few handsome signorinas who were variously employed in carrying water in large eartheren globes on their heads, or baskets of fruit, or picking fruit, &c. The old men & women were sitting at their doors with their eyes and ears wide open. The men dress generally in white domestic muslin. Their pants are tight around the thighs but widen as they hang down the leg. Their shirt or coat, whichever it may be called, is of the same stuff & made something like our shirts, having, however, wider sleeves & not being open at the side. Their hats are generally of different kind of straw with wide leafs. Those that can afford better clothes dress more like us, having regular coats. The women dress much like Americans, 1 This was San Elizario, the old presidio town of the district. The ruined church and fort were occupied by American troops during the war with Mexico and for a couple of years afterwards.

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on the Southwestern Trail generally having a scarf or handkerchief to throw over their shoulders & heads. The skirts of their dresses seem to be separate from the body, & something of a different color, white, blue, &c. The smaller children are nearly naked. After leaving the town about IV2 mile behind us, we found No. 3 & Jones camped near the road. They told us that there was no grass any further up, & that we had better stay, but on we went, coming to another town called Succora,2 about 5 miles from the last. In this town the houses were more scattered but the gardens look richer. After leaving the town, we took the left hand road & soon overtook the cow man, who was camped near the road. Our waggon hauled in, we let the oxen go, leaving the yokes on, & began to look for something to eat. We found there was neither wood nor water any ways near, & so we were again in a fix. It began to rain & we spread the fly for protection. We bought a pint of milk from the cow man, apiece, which, being a little turned, we obtained for a half dime (half price) & breaking some biscuit in it, we made quite a meal. After we had finished, Messrs. Bratton & Adams arrived, the latter bringing a large handkerchief full of peaches & a couple of ducks; the latter he shot on the lagoon near the 1st settlement. We walked into the peaches about a foot & their were some left after we had as much as we could eat. We fixed & started off in the rain to find a place where water & wood could be got. No. 1 came up in the meantime, & we learnt that 8 had broken their king bolt. After we got near the next town, we halted while the boys look for an encampment. After waiting some time we hauled in, not far from the road, near a stream of river water, but where no wood could be had excepts One of three Mexican settlements (of which San Elizario was another) on La Isla, an island formed by a division of the Rio Grande a short distance below El Paso. The island has long since disappeared, and the site is now entirely on the American side of the river.

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Overland to California ing the smallest mezquite bushes, green. We were surrounded by gardens of fruit & cornfields & had to watch our cattle & horses. Captain Thompson (who speaks the Mexican language) & Mr. Bratton went to look for a corral & a herdsman, but returned unsuccessful. We got a small boy to take care of our cattle for the rest of the day. We tied them up to the wheels of our waggon. Our horses also were close to our tents. Sunday, September 9th. I had forgotten this was the Sabbath day till, in fixing something, I met with an accident. I then thought it would be more proper to spend it in reading, &c. Three of our boys went into town to see what was to be seen. We cannot obtain any flour ready for use, but wheat seems plenty. Fruit is cheap, and a little powder, caps, or most anything will purchase considerable. Captain Thompson was looking for a better place to camp but could notfindone. The natives crowd around our tents & watch every movement with curiosity. We bought some goat's meat for dinner, which went well. Two meals were all we could afford as there is no wood here. We heard that Major Eastland & No. 2 are going to Chihuahua. Little seems to be known of the routes ahead, & nothing reliable about gold on the Gila. There are a considerable number of ox waggons now waiting to go on. Monday, September 10th. Captain Thompson made arrangements for us to move into town to a ranch. We were to have the use of the house & as much fruit as we wanted to eat. We were also to have a herdsman for our cattle & horses. The rent of house & use of garden was to be $3 pr. month, & the herdsman 2 bits pr. day extra, & the use of a corral free. The place was occupied by Major Eastland, who moved out this morning,' being about 3 Major Thomas Eastland and his party camped on this site from September 6th to 10th, and he identified it as "the Rancho of Señora Durán, in the village of Isleta," on the island. See Thomas Eastland, "To California through Texas and Mexico," Calif. Hist. Soc., Quarterly, vol. XVIII, p. 120.

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on the Southwestern Trail to start for Chihuahua & thence to Mazatlan.4 We struck our tents & commenced moving in about 10 o'clock, & brought our waggons close to the house. Our tents were pitched & we began to prepare for dinner, having helped ourselves plentifully to fruit, when the signor that owns the place, & whose peons occupy it, came in & began to make a terrible fuss, & told us, through Capt. Thompson, that we must now pay extra fees, &c., amounting to 2 or $3 a day. Some boys of the messes ahead said that we would find an excellent campground about 2 or 3 miles the other side of town. We made up our minds to take French leave after having eaten some dinner. This signior said something about shooting, when captain told him that that was the only game that we were good at, & to shoot on. My brother & some others of Mess No. 3 came up to our camp, but we were all in a bustle. We started on without any ceremony & made our way to the ground, guided by Mr. Harrington. It rained hard while we were travelling & after we arrived. I came up in advance of the train & collected a good pile of wood which had been left by the Engineers who had camped here. We put up our tent & as the grass was pretty good & the water handy, we had the satisfaction of expecting to have a little peace once more. Mr. Van Bibber went up to the Pass this morning in search of his brother, who came out by Fredricksburg some time since. Distance 3 miles. Tuesday, September 11th. It rained extremely hard last night, but we had our tent up & were prepared for it. It cleared off towards morning, for which I was thankful. Messrs. Bratton & Lawson, of our mess, & Captain Thompson & others, of his, went to town to make arrangements for some flour. We unpacked the waggon & cleaned it out, & then went to a Mexican casa where 4 Eastland and his son had traveled with Col. Jack Hays' party as far as El Paso. Now they struck overland across Mexico, via Chihuahua and Durango, to Mazatlan, where they took a steamer for San Francisco. See Ibid.

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Overland to California we got about 350 large onions for an old sword which cost about ten shillings in New York new. I also traded with some of the signorettas for a sheepskin, giving them a fancy cotton handkerchief & another for a half peck of beans. Messrs. Bratton & Lawson were home when we got back. They had purchased a fenagre" of wheat & brought it to be ground to the mill. They paid $5 for the wheat. We afterwards bought a fenagre of flour from the ranch for $7 in cash. Beef is scarce & all kinds of fresh meat. Bacon is scarce & 4 bits pr. lb is the price. Wednesday, Sept. 12th. I was on guard last night on the first watch. I overran my time nearly an hour, not having the use of a watch. The ox train is camped only about a mile back. Last night some of our oxen got out of our corral, made with our three waggons & the assistance of ox yokes, chains & ropes. There was some dispute about whose watch the cattle got out on. I exonorated myself, as I called captain and he pronounced all right. We got the cattle soon again & delivered him over to our herdsman. The Army ox train came up today and camped about Vi mile below us. This is a bad business, as they will eat all the grass clear up. Messrs. Bratton & Lawson brought home 8 ducks, 2 of which they gave away, & the rest we made supper on. Our dinner consisted of boiled beans & pork, which was good, although not a favorite dish of mine. We had wheat cakes made from native flour, which were, considering we had not even bacon grease to eat with as this is becoming a valuable article. Mr. Brower supped with us. He came down to see how we stood in relation to going on, and the manner, &c. I made another pilgrimage this afternoon to the casa of my fair signiorettas, who came to my tent in the morning with beans, onions, &c., to give in trade for some fancy turkey-red hdkfs. (Indian goods), after which they were crazy. I told them I did " Fanega, a dry measure, roughly equal to a bushel and a half of grain.

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on the Southwestern Trail not want anything they had, but would go over to their casa after little. We gave them some washing, for which they charged un mayo [?] per piece. On this visit I brought a couple of hdkfs. & started bringing some more clothes with me to be washed. They offered to wash them for a scarf, or give me beans or onions. I objected, & looking around, saw one of their blankets for which I was anxious for trade, but the Mexicans will seldom sell these articles even at a high price. They are woven by hand and it takes a woman about 5 or 6 months to make a good one. They are superior to all other blankets for keeping out the rain & wind, and wear a long while. I offered the two hdkfs. & a silk one which I wore about my waist, but it was not sufficient, the price of which in money was $4. They then took a fancy to the red flannel shirt I wore, & offered them the two scarfs & a shirt for the blanket, which they accepted. I told that I would give them the shirt by coming to our camp. I got some grapes & another sheepskin for almost nothing, & started for camp, accompanied by a signor. Thus ended another pleasant Spanish lesson. The reports of the Indian depredations prove too true. The Apaches prove themselves to be that for which they have the reputation—that of being the bravest & most daring tribe of Indians on the continent. They dared Lieut. O'Brien out to fight them, & often during the fight they stood & exchanged shots man for man. Lieutenant O'B. was worsted & driven off. It is said that hardly any force can subdue these Indians when they retreat to the mountain to fight. They steal horses & mules in open daylight in the settlements & many an emmigrant is staying about here, having lost his animals which is nearly their all. But as smart as they are, the Americans are smarter. Major Chivaillez' 6 Major Mike Chevaille (often spelled Chevalier) was a noted Indian fighter who served under Colonel Jack Hays in the Rangers and in the Mexican War. In 1849, as mentioned here, he engaged in Indian hunting as a mercenary for the Mexican Government of Chihuahua.

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to

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& a man named Glantom,' who were on their way to California through Mexico when they got as far as Presidio, the Mexicans were offering such enormus prices for Apache scalps, they thought it would be a profitable business. Their first attack was upon the chief of the tribe, old Gomez8 & 300 warrior, their party consisting of 18 old Texian Rangers. The attack was made somewhere near Presidio just before day dawn. It was successful. Eleven Indians were killed & 2 or 3 taken prisoners, besides some 50 or 60 mules. Only one of Glantom's party was killed. They received at Chihuahua $200 for each scalp & either $250 or $300 for each prisoner, besides the price of mules, which were sold at auction averaging $22 or $23 a piece. The same inducements are still offered, & Glantom, who is expected here in a few days, thinks he can pick out about 50 men from the Army train, mostly teamsters, many of whom are old rangers, and California emmigrants, with whom he expects to make a good business of it. The Apaches have seldom been beaten in battle & this makes them brave. Colonel Donniphen8 expressed his opinion that they were the hardest kind of men to fight, and that he would rather fight double the number of almost any other tribe or number of Mexicans than fight them. They are able to bring into the field 5 or 600 warriors, well-armed with guns & pistols. Colonel Hays has given up all hopes of being able to treat with these savages, 6 advises the Californians to travel in as large parties as possible. 7 John Glanton, who found the business of scalp-selling so lucrative that he and his band of border ruffians turned to murdering Indian women and children, and even Mexican citizens, for the scalp bounty. In 1850, after shifting his field of operations to Yuma, he and eleven of his gang were attacked and killed by Indians. 8 A Mescalero Apache war leader and one of the most feared Indian raiders in northern Mexico and the region of the Big Bend and Davis Mountains of Texas. In the period from 1846 to 1853 he raided back and forth across the border and was considered the terror of Chihuahua and western Texas. 0 Colonel Alexander W. Doniphan, commander of the First Missouri Volunteers in the Mexican War, led one of the most famous expeditions of that war in his march from Santa Fe (via El Paso) to Chihuahua.

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on the Southwestern Trail A great many of the Californians look blue. Some think of turning back, others of spending the winter here, & all kinds of stories are afloat: that ox teams never can go through; that it is 1200 miles to San Diego; & again, that with only a horse you can strike the Pacific in 15 days, a distance of 300 miles; that Mexicans are willing to bet that they can touch the Pacific in 4 days, & so on. It is best to believe just what you please of these stories. Thursday, September ISth. It rained again last night, & for a while, extremely hard. The cattle again got out of the corral, but we found them as usual. I learn that No. 4 has lost a yoke of oxen, as they have not seen them for some days. No. 2 , 1 believe, are going to leave their waggon. The mess is almost crazy. No. 4 talk of coming down to camp with us. Mr. Brower passed our camp on his way to No. 3's camp. Colonel Hays stopped this morning for a few moments. He told us that he would start in about 8 days. He said that if the pack mule & mule team Californians would agree to it, he would accompany the ox teams till all out of danger, but if not, he would have to go on. He takes a light waggon with 8 mules, 4 to change. He says, from the information he has obtained, that the best route turns off about 60 miles above the pass, which strikes Colonel Cook's trail.10 The road is good with grass & water plenty. My brother came to the mess this morning. His mess, or at least the majority of them, will go on. They have lived nearly altogether on ducks lately; they have killed so many. Our dinner consisted of fried onions & rice & milk. The milk we obtained from a cow some of Ridgway's men were driving to their camp. It went well, as milk is a luxury here. I did not make my usual visit to the^casa today, as I have been busy in making a shot 10 Cooke's trail, or Cooke's Wagon Road, was laid out by a party of United States soldiers under Col. Philip St. George Cooke in 1846. It ran from Santa Fe to San Diego via the Rio Grande, Guadalupe Pass, the Santa Cruz and Gila River valleys.

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Overland to California pouch, mending my saddle, &c. The inmates, however, made a visit to our tent, bringing with them the clothes left to be washed. They charge un mayo a piece & you must give them soap besides. They brought with them wheat, &c., but we only traded for a few grapes. The signorettas went to where we get our water & filled their globular vessels, carrying them on their heads without any assistance from the hands. This astonished me, as their was but a very small bearing surface to their vessels & nothing on their heads excepting a thin white muslin scarf, which is generally worn when they go abroad. It is not meet for me to discribe the valley of El Paso. I would refer to those whose opportunities & knowledge is far superior to my own, but I have seen a little, and of a little I will speak. The ground over which I have travelled & seen is extremely level, & the ground of a sandy soil. Trees, excepting fruit trees, are very scarce, & generally cottonwood, with a few willows. The farms (if I may so speak) are nearly all watered by ditches through which is let, on and off at pleasure, the waters of the Rio Grande. There are a number of small lakes or ponds scattered about, where will be found large quantities of duck & some geese. There are no fences about their cornfields, &c., & only around their orchards & vinyards when they are on a street. Cattle are very poor and small, & not very plenty. There are some cows here, & milk has been bought at about a bit a quart. No butter, but cheese, something similar to our pot cheese, can be had. Eggs are about a bit pr. doz. & scarce. Pigs can hardly be bought for any price, as they are considered members of the family, & two of these members is as much as is ever seen to one family. Goats & sheep are not very fat, & can be bought from 2 to $3 a piece. The Mexicans eat but little meat about here. Their food is torteas,u a kind of pancake made of [blank], beans & 11 Tortillas, thin, flat cakes make from ground corn, and constituting a major item in the Mexican diet.

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on the Southwestern Trail corn. They eat considerable fruit. The natives are generally healthy looking & the women more so than the men, they always being plump & generally of middle stature. The women seem to work ¿he hardest, as they grind all the wheat & corn on their matats," which work is about as hard as scrubbing. The matat is a stone peculiarly shaped & inclined so that, by placing the wheat or corn at the top, it will gradually fall under a stone the width of the matat, which is moved by the hands of the person at work, who kneels at the head of this machine. Friday, September 14th. Our encampment, though consisting of only 3 waggons, is quite a handsome one. Our tents are pitched outside our respective waggons, the waggons forming a tolerable respectable corral. Two large cottonwood trees adorn the encampment & lend enchantment to the scene. The grass has been pretty well used up near the camp, but, by taking a little trouble, our horses can get a pretty fair supply. No excitement today. The fruits of the valley in which we are now safely lodged, & whose fame is spread far and near, consist principally of grapes, peaches, apples, pears, quinces, & melons. The grapes are of an excellent flavor, although not very large. The peaches are generally only tolerable, although perhaps some of the finest I have ever eaten have been here. Apples are small but of good flavor. Pears are superior to the apples, & some I have tasted are excellent. Quinces look large &fine,but I have not seen any preserved. Melons are not quite as good as our northern ones, but, as this is the 2nd crop, it is not a fair comparison. With a little more industry & a superior knowledge in farming, the fruit might stand unrivalled in the world. By grafting, &c., the fruit would be greatly improved. Mr. Jones of Mess No. 1 has lost his horse, he having been missing for some days. Saturday, September 15. After breakfast I saddled my pony 12

Metates, curved stones for grinding maize or cocoa.

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Overland to California & started to go to Mess No. 3, partially to see if I could make a trade of my pony for a little heavier horse. I made several inquiries but reached No. 3's tent with the same pony under me. Horses are pretty scarce and the Mexicans do not like to part with them. I found the boys of No. 3 busy jerking beef. They had as much as they could do. I took hold & worked awhile with them. They invited me to dine, & as fresh beef was great inducement, I accepted. They thought they would be here on Monday. We had some excellent soup & beef bones, which, together with the usuals, formed the meal. My horse was missing when I went to look for him, he having followed Mr. Evans' mule, taking a contrary direction to the one I left him in. The whole mess excepting Wood will go on. He will probably leave them. The sun was hardly an hour high when I mounted & rode off. I had not gone far when I met Mr. Edwards, who left us at Limpia Aroia, where the buffalo was slaughtered. He asked for Jones who is at the Pass. Jones has opened a store in Presidio, but goods are too cheap here to make it a very profitable business. On my way home I struck a trade for an American mare, giving considerable to boot, but I came off satisfied. I had made a good trade. It was almost dark when the bargain was closed & I could hardly find my way to camp. When I arrived most of the boys were about turning in. The staple products of the country are wheat, corn, beans, tomatoes, onions, garlick. All of these are good. The wheat is not quite as full as northern wheat, but is very wholesome. The corn is excellent & the beans the best I ever tasted. The onions are finer than the tomatoes. Sunday, September 16th. Another Sabbath day has rolled on, & the bell calling the heedless to Mass sounded this morning in our ears. I examined my horse more particularly this morning, and am still of the opinion that I made a good trade. We had to take turns in herding our cattle yesterday & today, as our herds142

on the Southwestern Trail man did not come. He complained of being sick. I occupied the afternoon in writing home, as I hear the express leaves tomorrow. Messrs. Thompson & Bratton have been hunting for beef, but find it scarce. They have heard of a yoke of cattle, which have not been worked for some time, for $42. It is probable we will get them. I traded this afternoon for a fanega of wheat for Mess No. 3. Monday, September 17th. I sat up till late last night, finishing my letter home. I then went on guard, & so it was in the neighborhood of 2 o'clock before I went to bed. A yoke of cattle escaped from the corral last night, but we found them easy this morning. We hired another herdsman. Dr. Cook stopped with No. 8 last night. No. 4 have not found their cattle yet. Mess No. 2 have sold their oxen & waggon & are going to take mules and horses. O'Brien has lost his horse. Our beaves came up before noon. They were an old yoke of Missouri oxen, driven through & sold here. They have not worked for more than a year. We kept them in the corral until 2 hours before sundown, when we committed the awful deed. We were well employed till about sunset, skinning etc., quartering. We ate a hearty supper on fried liver. We tied our horses near camp. We heard that the Browns had lost their horse. No. 4 came down & camped with us. (Our encampment is on an island surrounded by the waters of the Rio Grande. Its extent is from 2 to 4 miles wide & about 20 miles long.) Tuesday, September 18th. I slept well last night & made up for the night before. We were up early, as we had a day's work before us. Several horses were missing this morning, & among others, Bratton's mule. From the circumstances attending, after a careful search they were pronounced stolen, & Bratton and Conry started off towards the Pass in search of them. Bratton returned in about half an hour driving the horses before him minus their ropes. It took the boys a long time to rope them. We 143

Overland to California got 3 Mexicans to help us jerk, as they understand the business about right. I made some soup for dinner out of a lot of marrow bones. It was pronounced excellent. It contained peas, rice, & onions. The beef is very far superior to what we have bought of Hays. We finished cutting up the beef before night, & paid off our peons in beef bones. No. 3 came up this afternoon, & the Fremont Association are once more together. They now number 5 messes & 30 members. I understand Mr. Wood has sold out to Mr. Douglass, cousin of Jack Hays, for $50. A good many that started for California are turning back and going to San Antonio. A greater number talk of wintering here. The Pass this winter will be the theatre in which many a horrible scene will be played. I sent my letter by gentlemen going to San Antonio, having missed the express. Wednesday, September 19th. Last evening & this morning I employed myself in making a site for my brother's rifle. I succeeded pretty well. It is rumored that Colonel Thome's party have been cut & murdered by the Indians, but it is hardly credited, as he had about 100 of the best kind of fighting men. We are luxuriating on fresh beef & wheat cakes. No. 4 have not yet obtained all their cattle. Judge Stith has them in his corral & refuses to give them up. Mr. Jones has not yet found his horse 6 he is now considered a gone case. Our corral is now quite respectable, 5 waggons, &c, being employed in forming it. Creary, the immortal Creary, has bought a waggon & a couple of mules, also a handsome pony, lately owned by one of the officers in the Army. He only gave $40 for it. Mr. Wood bid us goodbye today, as he soon leaves for San Antonio. No. 4 & No. 8 killed last evening & are busy today cutting, &c. We rended our tallow & obtained some very nice cakes. I think we will obtain over 30 lbs. It is invaluable. The rope of my horse & that of Mr. Chapman was taken off our horses this morning. We found them in the 144

on the Southwestern Trail cornfield, eating away, not far from where we tied them. I was pleasently situated, as all our ropes have long since been put in active service. I tied a few little scraps together & tied her up, but after some time I discovered her walking off. I ran after her, but she was soon on a trot & then on a gallop, & had it not been for a young man, a Californian, who ran his horse after, it is a chance if I ever got her again, as she would undoubtedly run straight home. After trying for about half an hour I obtained a short rope, but it was strong. I now hoped I might have some peace. It came on to rain a little before sundown, & for the length of time I scarcely remember as much rain falling in a few moments. It came straight through the tent, & a little while afterwards we were inundated. It was as much as we could do to keep our bedclothes out of the water. It ceased for a while & gave us a chance to make ditches & get some weeds to put under us. We got our beef under cover but, notwithstanding, it got wet. We had some beans, &c., on the ground, but nothing was damaged much. It rained after we turned in for good, but not very hard. Thursday, September 20th. We put our meat out this morning to dry, also everything else that got wet. The sun, however, did not come out bright at first, but towards noon it was very warm. Messrs. Adams & Lawson traded for another fenaga of wheat & brought it to the mill where it is to be ground immediately. Three or four horses are missing again—among the rest, Captain Thompson's. We finished the tallow business today. We had a visit both yesterday & today from the chief of the Pueblo Indians & a few of the tribe—among the rest, his son. He seems to be very fine old man and talks a great deal, but very little of which we can understand. He has been to St. Louis, California, & other distant places. He brought both times some of the handsomest peaches I have ever seen. He made us eat as much as we could. 145

Overland to California We gave him some tobacco. Some more ropes were stolen today. It began to cloud up in the afternoon. We hurried our beef under cover, when it began to rain quite smart. It stopped & gave us a chance to bring up our horses & cut some grass for them. Mr. Brooks of Mess. No. 1 has bought a mule for $50. Mr. Van Bibber of our mess traded his horse for another today. Friday, September 21st. It rained very hard during the night, but we escaped without being inundated. We are very unlucky about drying our meat. The rain will detain us in our departure. Mr. Evans has sold out his interest in Mess No. 3. He has also sold his mule. I made a stew of some peaches that I bought from the Pueblo Indians for dinner. Considering that it had no sweetening it was quite nice. I employed myself this afternoon in washing my clothes & making a stool. I acted as dishwasher in the abscence of Mr. Adams, who went with Mr. Lawson for our flour to the mill. It came towards sunset to blow a perfect hurricane with every appearance of rain. The wind almost blew our tent down. It pulled out several pins & tore the canvass. We covered the meat & soon it came down in good earnest. Our mill boys had not yet returned & we were anxious about the flour. We brought our table in the tent & eat supper quite comfortably. Mr. Lawson arrived soon after supper with his bag of flour. It was not wet, as his body kept it off the flour, which was behind him. Mr. Adams soon followed, but he had left his bag at a casa at this end of town. They managed to eat in the dark & we all prepared for slumber. Saturday, September 22nd. As usual it rained extremely hard last night, & many a time I would put out my hand to feel if the water was coming in, but our ditches, &c., kept us safe. It ceased towards morning & gave us a chance to get breakfast. It still looked cloudy & rained during the morning considerably. It continued showery all day, now & then brightening up. It is ex146

on the Southwestern Trail tremely hard to get a good fire going in such wet weather. This was the dullest day I have past in some long time, wet & cloudy. Having to keep inside tent is not very pleasent. Sunday, September 23rd. It rained last night as if it was trying its best. It did not stop at all during the night. I was on guard from the hours of 11 to 1 o'clock, & it is very pleasant fun. It rained so that we began to think that the flood of Noah's time was only typical of this, the great one. We escaped with our lives, the water not being quite deep enough to smother us. The communication between one tent & another is entirely cut off by large lakes of water. We are putting our guns in order for duck shooting on these waters. The different tents show'd pleasing sight this morning. One would have made an excellent bath, another a splendid pig stye, & so on. No. 3 left this morning to get on higher ground. It took considerable time to get a fire going this morning. It did not look at all like Sunday. I employed my time writing to my sisters this morning. It continued rainy all day & we have given up all hopes of ever drying our meat. No. 1 have moved their tent. We think of leaving tomorrow. The roads will be quite nice for us since the rain. Colonel Hays will not start till after the storm. I hear that Colonel Johnson is soon going back. He will make an alteration in the road between this & the Pecos, shortening it some 100 miles. If this is done, no doubt it will be the great thoroughfare to California. Mr. Wood, late of No. 3, expects to go back with the train. Mr. Harrington of Mess No. 4 has sold out to a man late in the government employ. He looks like a rough customer. Mess No. 1 have hired a peon to go with them to California for $12.00 the trip, allowing him when there to dig for himself. We were offered one for 10 months for $5.00. Captain Thompson & Mr. Jones have both failed in finding their horses. We moved the waggons to make our corral more 147

Overland to California comfortable for the cattle, as they are not peculiarly fond of swimming at night. This afternoon the sun came out & all looked bright. We put out all our wet clothes to take the benefit of it. It is said that the road in many places between here & El Paso is waist deep with water. A waggon that passed here today got bogged above some place. The man owning the cornfield nearby came for pay for corn destroyed by oxen & horses. Some of the boys let their horses loose & they immediately go to the cornfield. It is decidedly wrong. We had an excellent supper off of pancakes, jerked beef & coffee. Mr. Young of Mess No. 1 has got the chills & fever. Monday, September 24th. Unusual as it may appear, it did not rain last night & we all slept well. We got up early but the sun did not come out as bright as we could have wished. A flock of geese flew over our heads this morning, but not near enough to shoot. About 11 o'clock the sun shone forth & such a putting out of wet things was never seen—from beef all through the bean & flour line, then the dried fruit, & lastly clothing, bed clothing & everything else. The ombre was here again this morning about his corn. Old Pueblo & his gang now come regularly to us once or twice a day. We are determined to start tomorrow. We had an early supper, or a late dinner, whichever suits the best, as we combined (or rather our cook did) both beautifully in one—but it was a good one. I will mention it to show what we call good on a prairie life: coffee without sugar or anything else that might at all injure its native flavour; however, a few peas have been roasted & ground up with the coffee, which no doubt the manufacturer was generous enough to throw in gratuitous. Then comes a medley dish of beans, bacon, beef, onions & peppers, mixed in great taste together. These are stewed, and the soup is considered tip top. Of the beans, I can say they are fine, as the finest Mexican woman I have yet seen told us, when trading for 148

on the Southwestern Trail them, that they were their meat & bread. The beef, of course, is jerked. Added to all this comes a large dish of, shall I call them pancakes? They are, however, cakes, very little, if at all, raised, made of Mexican flour, unbolted, which some of our boys are vulgar enough to call bran. The cakes are about % inch thick & held together by considerable sized straws, much after the manner in which the mud is prepared for the adobes. This constitutes a good supper here. After our meal was over we all jumped at it, greased our waggon, packed our beans, beef, &c., which had been drying, packed our waggon, & gathered up all our traps excepting our bedding. After this was done, I repacked my private clothes, which had got wet. After this, I staked my horse for the night & then took a most delicious bath, which greatly revived me. The rain did not look as if all over yet, & we therefore pinned it down ready if she should come. We are considering about getting a man to drive our teams, as we have had offer. Tuesday, September 25th. About 11 o'clock the rain came on, & for a couple of hours it did the business up about right. I was again awoken by the oxen escaping from the corral & the guard trying to get them back. This morning there were but a few oxen in the corral, the rest were in the cornfield. We had breakfast early & made preparations for a start, although the morning looked undecided. We were off before the other boys began to think of starting. No. 4 intend to stop till tomorrow. The road was extremely heavy, but we travelled on at a good rate. We had to pay $5 damage for the cornfield, & then the herdsman's fees, before we left. The padre sent for his hides, but got but one, No. 4's. Captain Thompson's & Jones' horses are still missing, also O'Brien's & Brown's. O'Brien & followers are going via Carletas.1® 18 One route from El Paso led southwest along an old Mexican trail to Correlitas, a point on the still older Spanish road from Chihuahua to the frontier outposts of Janos, San Bernardino, Santa Cruz, and Tucson.

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Overland to California The road, or part of it, ran through a heavy chapparel & sometimes trees. The branch which we crossed was not swollen much. We took a road leading to the right some distance before we reached Coon's Lower Ranch. After following the road some distance we cut across; we hereby escaped the worst part of the road. The sand was, however, heavy & we had two or three perpendicular places where we crossed dry branches. We passed the Pine Bluff Company, which are camped in two different places about a mile apart. We stopped a little above there, about V2 a mile from the barracks, or Coon's Ranch, where there was not a bunch of grass nor a stick of wood, & water quite a distance off. Once we left Victoria, it has not been our misfortune to camp in so poor a place for grass, but we could not better ourselves much under 7 or 9 miles. Captain Creary had $50 stolen from him last night. I hear that Evans has sold his mule, his interest in No. 3, & a case of handsome pistols, for which he obtained some $140, all of which he has lost gambling, drinking, &c. He says he is going via Carletas in about 4 days. Messrs. Adams & Chapman were missing when we camped & I went to work cooking dinner. We had a small rabbit which helped considerable, and some beans, bacon, &c., after which we had some peaches for desert. We put up our tent ready if it should rain. Adams & Chapman returned just before dark, when it came on to rain. No. 4's new member came up to camp. He was enquiring about his mess. Colonel Hays & Mr. Clyde stopped a moment. Colonel said his waggon left here last evening, & that the boys generally were rolling out. He said that he & judge had a yoke of No. 4's oxen, & that they should not get them till they paid for a steer of his that they picked up just below Agua Ancho Springs. He said that he did not care for the price of the steer, & that should they not pay for it, they would not get the yoke, but that he would leave instructions to give them to the 1st Cali150

on the Southwestern Trail fornia waggon that was heavily laden. Judge Stith passed going the other way some time after. He was as plausible as ever. Wednesday, September 26. It rained last night considerable, but stopped while we ate breakfast. We had to chain the oxen to the wheels of our waggon. Our horses were tied close around, without a bite of grass. As we got through breakfast, No. 8 came up, when it began to rain very hard & looked as if it might continue all day. It, however, held up about 10 o'clock & our waggon started on, leaving No. 8 hunting up their oxen, which had strayed while they were at breakfast. No. 1 got stalled & 8 had to help them out when they both followed our trail. No. 1 camped near O'Brien, not far from the Lower Ranch. After our waggon had started, Messrs. Lawson, Adams, Chapman & myself steered for El Paso. We passed Coon's Ranch, occupied by the government. We then passed through something resembling an Arcade—trees (cottonwood) about 4 ft. apart, shading it. It was very muddy & part of the road was entirely under water. We rode on the side of ditches made for the conveyance of water in a dry time, & it was as much as they could do to keep a foothold. We soon reached the bank of the river & we tied our horses under charge of Mr. Adams, who was kind enough to deprive himself of going over, to watch the horses. We got into a large dug out, managed by two Americans, & after running on bank two or three times, we got over. There were two other boats, manned by Mexicans, making considerable opposition. We paid a half dime for the passage. Some naked Mexicans were swimming horses over, which was a difficult job, as current ran very swift. Our 1st step into Mexico was a very muddy one. We passed the guard house & walked about % a mile before we got into the great city. The streets contained from 6 inches to a foot of water, & the walking was extremely bad. The houses are the same as I 151

Overland to California have described, made of mud & cottonwood. We travelled around some time & came to a store where we purchased some sugar Mexican loaf. We then tried to find a blacksmith, as we wanted a king bolt made, but the shops were all shut except one, & they did not understand, nor wouldn't. We then bought some poloncias" & travelled towards the ferry. The buildings generally look old, but the inside of some of them look very comfortable. The plaza is a dirty-looking place, at least when we viewed it. We saw little or no fruit, & the cornfields were beaten down. There is one thing I can say favorable, & that is that I saw three or four beautiful women in the place. We saw Mr. Evans, who said that he was going to Chihuahua in a few days. We also saw Moore, the man that we made arrangements to drive our team, who said he might be up this afternoon, but certainly tomorrow. We found a little fruit at the ferry, which refreshed us, & we again crossed in the American's boat & landed safely on the American shore. We mounted our horses & as we got to Coon's Ranch, the rain began to fall. But on we jogged, & soon came to the rapids, a little above the Pass. As we ascended the hill, leaving the Ranch, the valley of El Paso looked charming. The mountains on the right & left, towering their rough heads to heaven, beautifully contrasted with the level ground of the valley, while the Rio Grande, whose banks were adorned by the verdure of the cottonwood, winding its course swiftly along, lent enchantment to the scene. It made me feel a little sorry that our backs were tinned, perhaps forever, on this beautiful scene. Just above the rapids we found three or four casks piled up, & a man & boy in attendance. The casks were filled with wiskey & gin, & here it was for sale, while the rain was pelting down on those in attendance. The boys stopped & took a drink & paid 50^ for about V% of a pint, which they said was 11

Piloncillos, sugar loaves.

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on the Southwestern Trail extravagantly low. I heard afterwards that Major Van Horn had prohibited selling liquor in town, & thence they had moved out. We passed White's Ranch, through which the road passes, about 7 miles from the Pass. The road to here is very hilly & sandy. Some of the hills are also covered with loose stone. It touches at many points close to the river, & is very winding. After we left the ranch it was extremely muddy, & after passing a couple of encampments (ox trains), we hit on No. 1, who had just unyoked their cattle. We enquired about our waggon. They told us that it was in sight 10 minutes before. We hurried on through mud up to our horses' knees, & soon came in sight of a tent & waggon. We now thought we saw the period to our ride, but on coming up found it was No. 3, who told us our waggon had passed 2% hours before. We pushed & again came in sight of a waggon, but it proved to be a few Mexican carts having stopped for the night, & the poor attendants shivering in the rain, some standing around a fire they had kindled, others crawling under their waggon, all of whose clothing consisted chiefly in the blanket they had over their shoulders. The road here forked, & we at first took the right hand road, but the waggon trail that we were following crossed on to the other road, & so did we, & soon we found ourselves hedged in on either side by a thick chapparel, & up to the bellys of our horses in mud. But on we went, the rain by this time having wet us so completely that we did not much care. It, however, began to grow dark. Mr. Lawson, who was a little in advance, stopped & said he thought that our waggon could not have gone any further through such heavy mud & advised us to turn back, but we all decided that the trail we were following was our waggon's & that it was not much further. Again I knew that after we had passed the fork of the road there had not been a place fit for camping, it being so muddy. One of our boys gave a shout and it

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Overland to California was answered from the camp, and soon we saw the tent not far from the road in the chapparel. It still continued raining & had now become dark. We tied our hungry animals to the surrounding bushes, they having had scarcely a blade of grass to eat for two days, & ourselves not much better, as we ate nothing excepting a few peaches since morning. We got inside the tent and found Bratton & Van [?] going into some raw bacon, onion & biscuit. We helped them out, having procured an additional supply of provision, & then made up our beds as well as we could, some of our blankets, &c., having got wet. It being cold as well as rainy, we wanted all we had to cover us. I had but one dry blanket & a sheepskin, my thick coat & other blanket having got completely wet. The boys said they were not certain they were on the right road, but a man had directed on it. The last thing I remember before I went to sleep was the rain still pouring on our canvass covering. Distance 11 miles.

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El Paso to San Diego Crossing of the Rio Grande

Thursday, September 27th. It stopped raining as we arose, & we got a good breakfast to make up for lost time. After breakfast Mr. Adams & myself started back to White's Ranch to get a few little articles, & mostly tofind,if possible, our teamster. It rained just as we were ready to start, which put us back a little. We, however, seized the opportunity when it held up, being prepared for rain. The road was worse than last evening & our horses had enough to do to carry us through. After we passed the fork we came up with the Mexicans, getting up their cattle. They told us that the right hand was the best road now, although they both met. They were on their way to Donyanno1 with dried fruit, &c., owned by Mr. Thompson, who keeps store at Succora. One of them spoke tolerable good English, which is uncommon here. The rest of the road was better, excepting opposite where the train was camped. We found nothing at the Ranch that we wanted, & heard nothing of More. Mr. & Mrs. Phillips were here, as large as life. They intended to move in the afternoon. The fence of yark [sic], &c., back of the building, is made of the waggons brought from Missouri in 1846 by Colonel Donniphan.2 Most of them are taken apart & scattered around. 1 Dona Ana, an important frontier outpost in New Mexico at this time. A United States Army garrison was stationed there, and at the post commissary supplies were offered for sale to California-bound emigrants. 2 Colonel Doniphan camped with his troops at Dona Ana, December 22 to 24, 1846, while en route to Chihuahua on his famous march from Santa Fe during the Mexican War. See John T. Hughes, Doniphan's Expedition (Cincinnati, 1850), pp. 258-259.

Overland to California We mounted & came away unsatisfied with our success. We took the right-hand road with a view of seeing whether or not we could take our waggon across, & how the road was. We guessed about the place opposite our camp & struck across, meeting no impediment, & after going about V2 a mile we came right upon our camp. The boys had just had dinner & were soon at it, as I always think that it takes two or three hearty meals to make up for the loss of one. A company of pack mules, consisting of three, came in & camped near us. No. 1 & 3 think of lying by till morning. No. 8 not come up yet. I had forgotten to mention that a man was killed at El Paso the other evening, & another shot at on the following evening. Also Captain Bell, waggon master of mule train in charge of Captain French, life's been threatened by a man named Williamson. The Pass, no doubt, will be a great place this winter, as gambling, drinking, &c., are all the rage. The sun having come out beautifully, we put out our wet clothes, our beef, &c., to dry. A couple of deer were started up not far from our camp this evening, but the boys that saw them were without their guns. Friday, September 28th. We were at work early this morning. Mr. Bratton determined to go back to the Ranch. After greasing, &c., we started cutting across to the other road, which we reached without difficulty. No. 1 was not far behind us. The 1st part of the road was good, being sandy, but there were several bad spots. Some ranches appeared about % mile from the road. On approaching one, I found it unoccupied & situated on the other road. I was sorry to find it vacant as I expected a treat of fruit, but no fruit trees or anything of the description was about. Afieldof corn was all I could see. On coming back to the waggon, I found Bratton had returned with as little satisfaction as we had. He said No. 1 had turned in for the day. After going a little further we found water & camped for the day, as we supposed. 156

on the Southwestern Trail After dining, some of the boys found a fine campground about 100 yards from us in a handsome grove, in the midst of which were two wells, dry. In the meantime, the Matagorda pack-mule camp came up, & we directed them to the ground, which we determined to move to, as we thought of laying over tomorrow to wait for the rest of the boys. Distance 10 miles. Saturday, September 29th. We are here most pleasently situated in a beautiful grove studded with the cotton & the more delicate willow, whose soft & graceful branches kiss the passing breeze. The mountains, rugged & stern, to the east, only make our little valley more beautiful by contrast. The freshness & verdancy of the pasture make our worthy cattle laugh, & plenty of wood of the best kind & plenty of water pure enough to cope with that Agnes fountain, adds to its charms, & all conspire to make merry, cooks & everything else. We found our onions were spoiling & put them out to dry in the sun. No. 1 came up about 11 o'clock, & 8 just behind them. They camped with us. No. 3 came up earlier in the morning &, excepting No. 4, we are all now together. The Pine Bluff boys were on hand about noon. They consist of 4 waggons & 18 members (ox teams). They are from Red River, eastern part of Texas, & among their number are several full & some half-breed Cherokee Indians. They had 15 horses stolen from them the night before they reached the settlement. The day passed pleasantly & after supper we had a social meeting. The Pine Bluff boys were invited to join us, which invitation they accepted. Our circle around a large fire was good-sized one, & all seemed to enjoy themselves. We thus amused ourselves till it was time to retire. Sunday, September 30. Just as we were arising from breakfast the welcome sun made its appearance over the mountain. I say welcome, for the night & morning was very cold. Messrs. 157

Overland, to California Lawson & Bratten wishing to return to White's Ranch, & perhaps as far as the Pass, I volunteered to drive. We got up the oxen & were 3rd on the road, 2 of our waggons & 1 Pine Bluff being ahead. The 1st part of the road for about 2 miles was pretty good, but after that extremely heavy. The oxen, not having had water before they started, were sometimes almost unmanageable, as they would shear off at every little pool they passed. We halted about 1 o'clock where there was pools of water. We came in 2nd, having passed No. 8 & one of the Pine Bluff Co. Although short, it was a hard days' drive for the oxen. The range at our camp is good, but the grass tolerable, though plenty of it. We ate a cold lunch as the day was well advanced. I felt more unwell for a short time today than I have since we started, but on laying down for a while, & not having eaten at lunch, I came to in time for a good supper. Our camp is only about V2 a mile from the river. Distance 8 miles. It appeared but little like the Sabbath today. Monday, October 1st. Another month has rolled around and we are still all alive & well, having made but about 100 miles in that time, & this is but the distance we intend to travel in a week. Messrs. Bratten & Lawson returned after dark, or between sun & moon. They brought with them a yoke of cattle, which we intend to add to our team, as our load is most too heavy for three yoke. No. 4 have got 5 yoke under their waggon & are sailing along finely. They intend to camp with us tonight, as they were going to camp 5 miles behind us last night. As we had not a yoke & chain, we took out our wheel steers & put the new ones in their place, driving the others along. I drove again today. The roads being as heavy as usual, only a little more so, we got stalled after travelling some distance, but we borrowed a yoke & chain from No. 3. We put on our 4 yoke & snaked her right out. We now have a splendid team & I felt honored by driving them, particularly

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on the Southwestern Trail the first day of the 4 yoke. We stopped once or twice to let our oxen blow, & camped, after travelling about 10 miles, half a mile from the road, where we had excellent water & a good supply of wood. Grass the same as last camp. Tuesday, October 2nd. We made alteration last evening in regard to the duties of each belonging to the mess. The cause of the alteration was that Mr. Bratten (who, although he has always done his share of labor, has at the same time always talked as if he did everything, & is of that disposition as never being capable of being made perfectly happy) was determined not to drive the oxen every other day, as heretofore. His assistant, Mr. Lawson, who has always done his part with an excellent grace, still willing to let it remain as it has done since they left San Antonio. When they wished the driver to return on business, I volunteered, after having done my respective duty, to get up the cattle & then drive them. The next day Messrs. Bratten & Lawson drove them up & yoke them in, Bratten then leaving them, & all the mess, excepting Van, Lawson & myself, having gone, & Lawson having driven since Bratten, to keep peace in the family, I again volunteered & drove them. At our conference, I offered to drive every other day, if Bratten would get them up & take care of them, Lawson making the same offer. Mr. Adams thought we would have the easier part, & Lawson offering to exchange, he took him up. We then offered to grease our waggon and all was settled, as one of the boys said, till we should have another muss. For my part, I think I made a happy exchange. We were up bright & early, I have nothing to do till the oxen were brought up & then help to yoke them. Our waggon started first, ahead of the whole train, the Pine Bluff boys following, & then the rest of our waggons. I rode leisurely behind. The roads was better than yesterday & the waggons went along a good jog. 159

Overland to California We travelled till near a small settlement,' 4 miles from Donyano when we found that there was no water ahead, excepting close to cornfields, & that, we thought, wouldn't answer, so we turned back & camped on a hill near the road, where there was water convenient in a pond. Opposite our camp to the east are high spurs of the Rocky Mountains/ part of which are singularly pointed with bare rock towards the top. To the west, about a mile off, is a large cornfield some 3 leagues long, & beyond that the river. O'Brien's party came up with their pack mules. This was the great Carletas party & also the great Presidio party. No. 4 is expected here tonight. Grass rather poor, wood scarce, two meals today. Distance 12 miles. Wednesday, October 3rd. Captain Thompson, having obtained some information concerning the lost horses, in company with Mr. Conry of his own mess, started back at 3 o'clock this morning. They will have to go as far as when we camped near Lalta [?]. Messrs. Brower & Sileckson of Mess No. 4 were at camp early this morning. They said that they did not intend to move, but, as we had determined to roll on, they would do so also. The Pine Bluff boys started ahead & No. 6 ahead of our crowd. We heard the river was fordable 15 miles from the town of Donyanno. We passed a small settlement8 a couple of miles from camp. The houses were close together & on top of almost every one was a large quantity of red peppers, which showed out at a considerable distance off. The road was sandy &, in places, very hard pulling. We found the town6 7 miles, instead of 4%, from the little settlement. The first thing that attracted my attention, when looking out for the town, was the United States flag floating gracefully to a pleasant breeze. This was a sight not witnessed 8 The village of Las Cruces, then a sleepy little hamlet of a few houses, which had been settled in 1848. 4 Organ Mountains. c Las Cruces. ' Doña Ana.

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on the Southwestern Trail for many a day, & it was a pleasing thought, though thousands of miles away from home, we are still, though soon to leave it, under the protection of its ample folds. Part of the town is built on a hill at an elevation (nearly perpendicular) of about 20 ft., with some houses below. The sight occupied by the garrison is commanding, & the town is much like the others, but not quite as handsome. On nearing the town, mountains appeared to the west, of, however, no very great height. We stopped in town about an hour & hearing there was good grass 2 or 3 miles ahead, we pushed on. The commissary here offers for sale, for the accommodation of California emmigrants only, provision of various kinds, pork 25^ pr. pound, sugar (brown) ditto, rice ditto, & fine sifted flour, 15^ pr. lb. These things, for this place, are reasonable. We left the main road about % mile from town, & then went on about a mile & a quarter through heavy (sanding) wheeling, where we reached a handsome grove of cottonwoods & excellent grass, the best we have encamped at since touching the river. Water plenty & good, dry wood ditto. We reached the campground about 3 o'clock. I am sorry to say that Mr. Lawson of our mess returned to camp without his horse. He had let him go during the night and was unable to find him in the chapparel. No. 4 are not going to move today. No. 1, who were some distance behind, took the main road & camped nearly opposite to us on the other side of the branch. Two express riders have been killed by the Apaches within ten days. They were on their way to this point from Santa Fe. Neither Donyanno nor its suburbs contain any fruit excepting that brought from the lower towns, but she raises more corn &, perhaps, beans than any of the rest. Peppers are abundant & also goats & sheep, large droves of which are brought into the other towns. The town is some distance from the river. Colonel Hays has not yet arrived, but is expected soon. Distance 9 miles.

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Overland to California Thursday, October 4th. The Pine Bluff Co. moved this morning, but we decided on laying still, as did the rest of the Californians. I lent Mr. Lawson my horse, who, in company with Mr. Adams, went in search of his horse. I rode as far as town with them on my brother's horse. I bought some more onions, as our stock is running down, & a couple of sheepskins to add to the comforts of my bed. I met Lawson & Adams before I left town, they having returned, as Yankee of Mess No. 4 had found the horse & was riding him up. No. 4 came up to town & laid in some provision. We made an new sandboard for our waggon as the old one was cracked. I rode into town again to try & get a letter sent home & see about getting a king bolt for our waggon. I got a gentleman to promise me to have sent by the train from the Pass but the king bolt was not done according to agreement. The smith promised faithfully to have it in the morning. No. 4 came up to camp about 2 o'clock. No. 1 left this morning with the Bluffers. Colonel Hays arrived about dusk. Friday, October 5th. The nights are extremely cool & we are under the necessity of pitching our tent every night & even at that it is no difficult matter to catch cold. The days are, however, still very warm. The wolves last night, & the night before, kept up a most melodious yell, which harmony was added to last night by the barking of Ridgway's dogs. Ridgway has sold all his cows & oxen, & all his men have left him. He is now proceeding on his own work, having one large 5-mule waggon & the small carry-all for his wife & children. His waggon got stalled coming up, in the sand over which the ox waggons passed without difficulty. Mr. Lawson & myself rode to town to get our bolt, but no bolt was ready. We took a couple of bolts which, though too large, are better than nothing. In coming away we gave the last settlement a last look, perhaps—yes, most probable—forever. We took the right-hand road & jogged along slowly. We met a 162

on the Southwestern Trail large train of waggons belonging to travelers from Fort Independence,7 bound for the Pass. They were drawn by oxen & the number (not having counted them) was not much short of 40. They had been nearly 5 mos. coming. We did not reach the waggon till they had camped half an hour. We found Mr. Van Bibber groaning & the doctor administering to him. He had a fever. The camp is yet, they say, 8 miles from the crossing. The camp is in a valley near the road, grass good, water highly impregnated with salt, wood very scarce. Mr. Bratten did not arrive, having gone ahead. Mr. Tory, some of whose Indian goods No. 3 are carrying, came up with a young man named John Gordon, who has lived with the Apaches. He got out some of these notions & took them with him as presents. He started a couple of hours before dark. He is to call, if possible, the Indians together, at Mule Springs, some 50 miles from where we leave the river. This young man is about being joined in holy matrimony to a Mexican girl. He was unaccompanied by any living creature, saving his horse. There are several of our boys that are suffering with the chills & fever This valley, to those not acclimated, is unhealthy. O'Brien's party camped near us. Distance 8 miles. Saturday, October 6th. We were up early & our waggon started in advance of the rest, & it was my turn to drive. The road was generally rolling & the 1st part a gradual ascent. We left the Santa Fe road about 3 miles from camp, taking the lefthand road. Colonel Hays passed us on the road. The wheeling was very heavy, being deep sand, & even when we came to descend after getting over the hill, from which we could see the river, the oxen had to pull heavy to get through the sand. The valley looked pretty from the emminence on the hill, but no 7 Independence, Missouri, on the Missouri River, had been the northern terminus of the Santa Fe traders from the early 1830's.

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Overland to California encampment was in sight on either side of the river. We passed No. 1 hitching up their oxen. We came up to our boys & proceeded to the ford.8 The Pine Bluff Co. was all over before we reached the crossing. We crossed safely, but No. 1 got stuck, & I had to return with our two lead yoke to draw them up. Even with 5 yoke we could hardly stir the load, as, the ground being spongy, the wheels sunk in the sand. The distance occupied in crossing is some 300 yds., as we follow up the middle ground some distance after crossing half way, part of which was bare. The rest of our boys were soon on the ground. We camped below where we came out & nearly opposite the entering of the ford on the margin of the river. Some trees adorned the place under which we camped. It was a pretty large cottonwood of, however, no uncommon beauty. On the trunk of it was nailed a barrel stave with the following inscription, "Lagrange Company crossed here the 11th & 12th of July, 7 waggons 6 43 men. 16 miles to Cooke's route." On the other side were written on the tree the names, Murchison & James L. Smith. This company is from Lagrange on the Colorado, Texas.9 The ground looked as if it could not have been used as an encampment by the numerous parties said to have crossed this river. Exactly opposite our camp is the Mountain10 of brownish hue, with dark green shrubbery distributed here & there. The grass is not good, but water & wood handy. The pack mules & mule 8 The San Diego Crossing, known to all travelers of the period. The ford took its name from nearby San Diego Mountain, on the eastern side of the Rio Grande.

* The La Grange Company was an emigrant organization formed under the leadership of John Murchison in the early spring of 1849. Captain Murchison was an able frontiersman, organizer, and disciplinarian, and the party was credited with being the only one on the road to remain united beyond El Paso, where many companies broke up. Murchison was killed accidentally in July, 1849, but the La Grange Company headed on for northern California. See Cox, "From Texas to California in 1849," Southwestern Historical Quarterly, vol. XXIX, pp. 39, 132, 140, 212-214. 10

San Diego Mountain.

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on the Southwestern Trail teams camped on the other side of the river. It is the general opinion that we will not move tomorrow, but I hear again that Colonel Hays says we will go as far as where we leave the river. Our supper brought with it a new dish, mush made of penola.u It would have been much more palatable with either sugar or molasses. Distance 10 miles. Sunday, October 7th. We had a very early breakfast this morning, for which I cannot account, as we were not certain of starting, excepting that, it being so very cold, our cook was glad to build a fire. We breakfasted on a fine large rabbit. We overheard that the word was start, & the boys prepared for it. I was determined to leave some notice of our crossing, &c., & expected to have had plenty of time during the day, but when the word start came I made the following inscription on a bare part of the tree some 6 ft. from the ground, with red chalk, about & under which the boys, or most of them, either inscribed their names themselves or got me to do it for them. Mine I wrote as below, & near it, in a less conspicuous place, the initials of some one's else. The members where much pleased with my work, & my reputation as an artist was sealed. Our waggon started next to the last one, No. 3 taking the lead. The road was good till we struck a passing leaving the river & for the distance I think we never have met its match since we started. It was with the utmost endeavours of Mr. Adams, whose day it was to drive, & my own, that we got through, sometimes having to shorten our team, the turns being so short. This lasted for about % of a mile & none of the road was any too good & when about 6 miles from camp, to cap the climax, coming round the edge of a hill, our waggon capsized &, falling into a gulley, went 11 Pinole, a meal made of parched, ground com, sweetened by the addition of sugar. It was one of the staple foods of the native Mexicans of the Southwest, and was quickly adopted by the frontiersmen and soldiers of the United States as a practical item of sustenance on long trips.

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Overland to California clean upside down. Messrs. Bratton, Adams & myself were the only members of our mess present & as we went over, or rather our waggon, I remembered we were travelling on the Sabbath. We went to work & soon we emptied it & with the help of No. l's boys & some of the Pine Bluffs, who had in the meantime come up, we turned her right side up & found nothing broken but the bows, & not one of them remained whole. We heard, by some of our boys who had been ahead & returned, that we had a hill to go over where it took from 10 to 15 men with ropes to keep the waggon right side up. No. 1 was kind enough to wait for us, & just as we started it began to rain. To add to our other misfortunes a yoke of oxen, while we let go, lost the ring & staple out of the yoke, & we had to take them out. It rained hard & we got pleasently wet. When we got to the bottom of the great hill we found all had deserted it, & some of our boys thought that there was not enough of us to manage the waggons, as one of our mess was sick, & two absent of No. 1, besides Mr. Young, who has not yet got the use of his hand. We therefor camped for the night & when our supper was ready, not having had anything since breakfast to eat, we walked into it, nothing withstanding the rain was beautifully wetting us, for we brought our table near the fire to have a little light. After which, nice & wet, we tumbled into bed. The encampment 2 miles ahead. Distance 10 miles.

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Diego Crossing

Post ( 1 8 4 9 )

O Janos

OUTE OF THF FREMONT ASSOCIATION The Rio Grande to California, via the 'Tucson Cutoff, t S./ (J Compiled from contemporary sources by Gem ge P. Hammond and Edu ard Ii. Hov es Drawn by C. E. Erickson, 1949

IlV —i—

From the Rio Grande to Apache Pass

Monday, October 8th. Mr. Van Bibber went for help when Messrs. Bratton, Lawson & Chapman went in search of horses & oxen. We started, or rather No. 1, about 8 o'clock, the rain having ceased & the necessary help arrived & brought them over safely. Next came our waggon, ditto, but the hill was no less bad. The road ran over a hill, rough & rocky, which stood nearly an angle of 45° steep at both ends, particularly the latter, where, notwithstanding two wheels locked & a man on each wheel, we were obliged to hold it back with ropes. With a little trouble, a good level road could be made at the foot of the hill. After we passed this celebrated place the roads were still heavy, & in places very bad. I walked most of the way while driving, as it gave me more command over my team. Our road lay along the river at the foot of the hills, & after travelling 7 miles we got to camp, which was situated on skirt of a beautiful wood, at edge of which was a lagoon of good water.1 We were busy the afternoon fixing & mending our shipwrecked waggon. It is said that the mule boys have organized & elected their officers. It is said that near where we are camped thatfireswere burning when thefirstof mules arrived & every sign of a large Indian encampment. The camp is strewn for about % mile along the wood & although not in a 1 This camp site, on the west bank of the Rio Grande, was very near the place where the U. S. Army established Fort Thome in 1853. The lagoon presumably was caused by overflow of the Rio Grande into one of its old channels.

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Overland to California position for defence yet making a great show. Messrs. Thompson and Conry returned this afternoon without the horses. Tuesday, October 9th. Last night the ox team emmigrants held a meeting for the purpose of organising & uniting for the purpose of protection while travelling in a wilderness inhabited by savage tribes of Indians. Mr. Leavy was chairman of the meeting, & after considerable debate Mr. Shipman, of the Pine Bluff Company, & Mr. Lingram, 1st Lieut, of our Association. The former is a Texian & a frontiersman & no doubt an excellent choice. Mr. Lingram has been in the Florida War. The captain expressed some of his views & setting a watch, we retired. This morning the cooks were, by order of the captain, called up at 4 o'clock, & we were done our morning meal long before sunrise. Our cattle were somewhat difficult tofind,& we did not get off as early as if it had been otherwise. I cut a couple of willow whip stocks before we left the valley. The train moved pretty fast, as the waggons numbered 12—11 ox & 1 horse teams. They make considerable show. We heard before we started that it was twelve miles to water, but that the mule train would go on. Our road was good, & part of the way following up a dry arroya, & after some 8 miles we began to ascend & the road became very rolling, ascending & then descending. After getting up on these hills the air was much cooler & the view back in the valley was beautiful. Mount St. Diego could be seen quite plain. After crossing the hills & travelling a little way, we came to the water, but there was no wood of any description to be seen." After some deliberation, we concluded to remain for the night. Our waggons formed a corral, & everything went on orderly. We gathered some brush & had a good meal on part of the hind quarter of ' A water hole located about ten miles west of Santa Barbara, at the head of a draw leading onto the plateau between the Rio Grande and the Mimbres Mountains. It was called "La Tinaja" by the Mexicans, and "Foster's Hole" by United States emigrants.

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on the Southwestern Trail venison which the Pine Bluff boys gave us. The captain called the guard together, the names running in alphabetical order, & told them their hours & who to awake. Mr. Adams of our mess was the first man on the list. Distance 12 miles. Wednesday, October 10th. The train got off in good season, & the road being excellent we rolled off finely. The morning was somewhat cloudy & cool, but towards noon the sun reigned supreme, dispelling all the dark clouds. When we arrived at the water, which was about 12 o'clock, we found the water strongly impregnated with sulphur, so that the stock would scarely drink it.' The order was to water & then proceed on, as we understood by a notice left by Mr. Harrington, who was at our camp last night & promised so to do, that it was 10 miles to good water & good grass. Before 1 o'clock we were on the road again, & my team next to the lead. I was 5th in the morning. After a while it begun to cloud up again & threatened to rain, but about an hour before sunset the sun again made its appearance, which was pleasing. The ten miles begun to seem pretty long, & it was not till after dark that we discovered fires in the camp. It got quite cold towards night & when we arrived at the campground, coming in ahead, I was hardly able to help unyoke, which terminated my hard day's work. We found the mule train here. No grass very near camp, & our horses must suffer as they have been going it all day. The tent was just up when it began to rain pretty smartly. I ate nothing for supper, & a cup of coffee, which I relished, did me for the night. It is said we travelled 25 miles, but I think it is over-estimated & the distance would be more accurate at 22 miles, 10 to the first water, 12 from there. We were made a present of about 15 lbs. of beef this evening. (I learnt on reaching * This watering place was called by later travelers Mule Springs or Mule Creek, about nine or ten miles beyond Foster's Hole.

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Overland to California the next encampment that there is a splendid spring here, which none of our boys happened to find. The name is Antelope Springs.) 1 Thursday, October 11th. It stopped raining about 10 o'clock, & rained but little after it. I got up at this time to secure my horse, which I had tied to a yoke when we came in, not being able to secure him properly. It was quite bright this morning. The order was to be ready to start at 12 o'clock & travel from 12 to 15 miles, as it is 25 miles to the next water, which we are to make early tomorrow. One of our oxen got stalled, & it was as much as we could do to get him out. At one time I thought it a doubtful case. I nearly got mired myself & cut a beautiful figure when we had got through. There are all kinds of Indian stories afloat. The most reliable 1 have heard is that the Indians are of a warlike disposition & that it is probable no treaty will be accomplished. A company of 50 pack mules, Missourians, have had a battle with them & killed or took some 15 warriors near here, & that the Indians are pursuing them, & it is expected they will have another battle about 90 miles ahead; that about 35 miles from here there is from 2 to 5000 head of the best stock, guarded by women & children only. It was said that there were Indians about our camp last night for the purpose of stealing our horses & pack mules. The mule train started this morning. We had an excellent dinner on soup & boild beef, which is not bad to start on for long siege. At 1 o'clock the train commenced moving, but No. 8 having missed a yoke of oxen, it delayed it some half hour before they started for good, No. 8 taking an old yoke of No. 4's which are driven with the Pine Bluff's extra steers. These oxen are the laugh of all, & no doubt if either of them were like Balaam's ass, empowered with speech, they could tell the history of Texas, 'Probably Cooke's Springs, at the entrance to the valley leading to Cooke's Canyon. ,

on the Southwestern Trail from long before it became a republic down to the present day. Their names are Beeswax & Scurvy, & very appropriate they are, as the latter looks as if he had been a victim of long time to the ravages of this foul disease. Old Beeswax takes at least one good ox to pull him along. I staid some time after the train had left, but we could find no trace of the cattle & caught up to the train, & soon all the members but 2 of No. 8 came up & gave them up. On offering $3.00 reward for them, a couple of Pine Bluff boys started back in search. The road was bad for the 1st 2 miles, being hilly & stony, & after that, winding around hills, came on to a nearly level & good road, travelling pleasantly along. After travelling about 6 or 8 miles, the remaining members of Mess No. 8 came up, driving before them their truant oxen. The other boys were almost to the camp when they discovered them coming. We travelled on till near 9 o'clock (before which time we discovered a light, about which there was considerable variety of opinion as regarding its distance & whether it was at water or no). We then halted where there was neither wood nor water, & but little grass. We partook of some beef & biscuit & stretching our fly for the 1st time in a long while, we, hearing the order to rise & start as early as possible, bade the world good night. Distance 12 miles. (Our camp is surrounded on all sides by hills & on the south by mountains of a rugged appearance.5 On some of the hills near were 2 little fortifications built, no doubt, by the Indians for defence. Mule Springs, the water of which sinks.) Friday, October 12th. The night was extremely cold, & even this morning after we rose we found full use for our heavy coats. We boild some coffee, & some of the boys did not even wait for 5 In the vicinity of the pass now called Cooke's Cañón, a short, rough passage of about four miles. It cuts through the Cooke's Peak Range about seven miles above the southern end of that spur of the Mimbres Range.

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Overland to California that, but rolled out, & the roads being good, we travelled 2Y2 miles pr. hr. & soon discovered the camp ahead. On we went, & at little after 10 o'clock we camped near a splendid mountain stream which we crossed 3 times about J/4 of a mile from the mule camp. We hear they do not start till tomorrow and they find that we are not quite so easy shook off as they might have first supposed. The name of this fine stream, whose water is clear & very cool, is Quince River," deriving its name from the quantity of quinces growing on its banks above here, also peaches, pears, &c., are said to grow in their wild state. I find that grape vines grow here & the pecan & black ash, not seen for a long time, are found here. This river empties into Lake Gooseman.' The Copper Mines8 are only about 15 miles from here, & a party of the mule-boys have gone to take a look at them. Eight pack-mule Californians went in this morning. The information about the Indians is of a warlike character, & Colonel Hays supposes we will have to fight them. The next water is said to be 18 miles distant. There are any quantity of deserted Indian wigwams along up the stream.® Mr. Lawson, who again missed his horse, did not obtain him until he went back to the last camp at water. An early start is the order for tomorrow morning. Distance 8 miles. I took a delightful bathe this afternoon, notwithstanding the coldness of the water. Saturday, October ISth. We had a social meeting last night, & although not very fully attended, in consequence of the boys, or some of them, being engaged in cooking for the long march * Mimbres River. * The river was believed to flow directly into Lake Guzman, Chihuahua, Mexico. It has sinoe been learned that the stream disappears into the ground a few miles north and east of Deming, New Mexico, thence flows underground into the Lake Guzman Basin. 8 The famous Copper Mines at Santa Rita, New Mexico. * The valley of the Mimbres River was the home of one of the divisions of the Apaohe people, known variously as Mimbrenos Apaches, Coppermine Apaches, or Warm Spring Apaches.

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on the Southwestern Trail tomorrow. We were up early, & by an hour after sun our train was moving about right, passing the mule train not yet ready to start. The road today lay over an extended plain, stocked with a luxurious growth of grama & mezquite grasses, the finest we have yet passed. We travelled fast & the mule train had considerable trouble to pass, in which they did not succeed till after noon, when we stopped where there was plenty of rainwater in holes to the left of the road. We watered our cattle & horses & took a luncheon, in order to help us the better to travel the remaining distance, which we supposed to be about 6 or 8 miles, having come near 12. After we had travelled about 3 miles we came on to the mule train, camped, which quite surprised us. We rolled up & formed our corral this side of their encampment. The water was from springs, & marshy.101 took a look at the mule camp scattered here & there, & then at ours forming a corral with our tents outside, pitched, in order. I thought, if they were organized, what were we? Wood very scarce, but grass & water good. The party that went to mines returned & reported that there was a large quantity of ore all ready for smelting, also lots of charcoal ready for use. It is said that money might be made, & plenty too, by bringing it to Chihuahua where it brings 6 bits. Gold is also found in small quantities. The party met a couple of Indians on the road, but they scampered off, yelling prodigiously. It was quite cool all today, the wind blowing strong from the west. Distance 15 miles. Sunday, October 14th. I was on guard on the 1st watch from 8 till 10, & an unpleasant watch it was. At first it threatened rain, a few drops falling & the sky overcast. It, however, cleared off cold. We had no way of knowing the time but to guess at it, as 10 Ojo de la Vaca (Cow Spring), situated in a low basin and surrounded by small conical hills, was a famous water site visited by most emigrant parties traveling through southern New Mexico. It lies approximately 25 miles southsouthwest of present-day Silver City, New Mexico.

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Overland to California the captain's watch is already out of order. We were up again this morning a little after 4 o'clock, & ate our breakfast long before it began to grow light. We started again ahead of the mule train, going at good rate. Our road was more rolling & not so good as yesterday. We passed some beautiful . . . in bloom in a little valley near the road. The mule train passed us again but they had hard work & many a time did they give up the chase, falling behind our waggons. Their favorite time, in fact the only time they can pass us, is going down hill. There was considerable excitement & the mule teams looked, at least some of them, as if they were drawn through a knot hole, it taking some half a dozen with sticks & clubs to urge on the animals. We passed rainwater again today in holes near the road, about 10 miles from camp. On we went, & after travelling about 4 miles, some of our boys came running their horses & saying we would have to return to the water, that it was supposed to be some 40 miles from water, & that we would have to return to the water. We came back a different road about miles, where we found water in holes sufficient for 2 or 3 days' stay. We came up & camped on a little hill, the mule train following. It was too cold to be pleasent today, & just before we got to camp it blew furiously, & some snow & rain fell. We were able to obtain wood here & got a good supper, it clearing up after a while. Colonel Hays' guide seems confused about the water, & he himself thinks it is from this camp that Colonel Cook recommends a "cut off" from his road through a country in which we will, from all accounts, meet no difficulty. If water can be had, it will save over 100 miles travel. If this is the place, the high mountain close to us is the one termed on the map Ben. Moore.11 11 Ben Moore Mountain was named by Lieutenant W. H. Emory in honor of his friend, Captain Ben Moore of the First Dragoons. Moore accompanied Kearny on his march to the Pacific and was killed at the battle of San Pascual in California. In 1856, the name Soldier's Farewell came to be applied to the peak. It lies at the southern end of the Burro Mountains.

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on the Southwestern Trail Gordon is expected in by the colonel tonight. The Indians say that there are men at work now on the Gila, & also that chiefs son sent word to Col. Hays that this party would not be disturbed, but little dependence can be placed on what they say. A fire was built on top of the mountain by some of the boys, & some Indians reported to have been seen. We are in hopes of meeting the Indians tomorrow.12 Distance 11 miles. It is supposed we passed the boundary between Mexico & New Mexico this morning. We also passed the road to the mines.18 One of the members of the P. B. Co. found a stone this morning near the road impregnated with Gold. (Mr. Chapman's old horse gave out today & was left in the road to tell the sad tale that all that start for California do not reach it.) Monday, October 15th. The word is to lay still, today being the first day we have not rolled since leaving Donyano. The fire of an encampment was seen last night, & this morning from some of the mountains, supposed to be an Indian encampment. The firing of guns were heard this morning, in the direction of the fire. Mr. Torrey & 2 or 3 more went to find the Indians, if possible, to bring them in. Our boys all prepared their weapons, & all were anxious to see them. Gordon has not yet returned. The cry arose that the Apaches were coming, & most of the horses & mules were brought & tied close to camp. These Indians proved to be a party of Mexicans, numbering over 400, who had an engagement with the Apaches this morning, & from thence came the firing. They also had an engagement on Saturday last. In u Colonel Hays had sent out Gordon to arrange a meeting with the Indians. Hays was anxious to meet the Apaches for two reasons. In his official capacity as a U. S. Indian agent for the New Mexico territory, he wished to conclude a treaty with them for the government, and as a member of this emigrant train he wished to secure safe passage for the party through the heart of the Apache country.

The old Janos Road between the Santa Rita Copper Mines in New Mexico and the smelters at Janos in Chihuahua.

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Overland, to California both, 5 Apaches & 6 Mexicans were killed. The Mexicans took 3 or 4 children prisoners, & had some scalps, & hanging to their field piece were several ears cut from the bodies of the Indians. The Indians commenced the attack. Colonel Hays, through an interpreter, asked him, the general," about the route we desired to take. He said it was much more direct & thought we would meet no obstacles, also find water. He sent for his sargent, who he said had been through that way & offered to leave him as guide. The officers accepted Colonel Hay's invitation to dinner. The remainder of the army, 600, were distant about 40 miles with a train of waggons. Colonel succeeded in obtaining a boy of about 10 yrs. that had been taken from the Apaches. The soldiers came about our camp, trading with the boys, giving spurs, tanned hides, gourds, &c., for beads, fancy hdkfs., &c. After a while the bugle sounded, & all ran to their posts & were soon in motion, having left 2 men to pilot us through. These Mexicans no doubt obstructed our way to a speedy treaty. The general enquired whether or not we had passports. Colonel Hays replied that he did not know that we were on their territory, and, if so, we were only on the borders. Tuesday, October 16th. Gordon returned last night & reported that, were it not for the attack of Mexicans, that they would have had the Indians in yesterday morning at 9 o'clock. He was in the fight. He now said that the Indians were scattered about. He still, however, hoped to get them in. He, accompanied by Mr. Thomas, another, & the captive boy, set out in search of them. All was disappointed & the day passed heavily along. The word from Colonel Hays was to move tomorrow, & he, our captain, &c., found water 4 miles ahead on our new route. A vote was taken & resulted in a large majority in favor of the new route. Water getting scarce. 14

Evidently General José Maria Elias.

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on the Southwestern Trail Wednesday, October 17th. The train did not start as early as usual, we, of course, taking the lead. We followed the old road for half a mile & then left it, making an angle of about 35° with it. The road was pretty heavy, but the oxen went well. By deviating from a direct course a little to the left, we found water in two places about % mile apart. At the latter we stopped, where there was sufficient rainwater found for our use. The captain at first gave order to lay over till tomorrow, but, as the mule train were going on, most of our boys wished to be rolling also, & he, leaving it to vote, the word was "onward." From the description of the country, it is supposed we will not lack for water. The mule train started about % past 12 o'clock, & we soon after, & after travelling about 5 miles, we encamped where we found water. Our march today has been short, but not unsatisfactory as a commencement of a new road. The road this morning was generally level, & this afternoon, although somewhat hilly, was not a bad road. We passed several dry arroyas & followed up one some distance, which we left coming over a ridge of hills near this place. The water is in a branch from springs, but sinks nearly as fast as it runs out." It is excellent water. Grass fine. For wood we use the stock of the bear grass. A hat was picked up this afternoon on a Indian trail. Our prospect as to road for tomorrow is good. Dr. Thomas, &c., have not yet returned. Distance 8 miles. Thursday, October 18th. The trial this morning was not who would start first, but who could avoid it, or rather who would be last, as it was our train's turn to make the road. We therefore did not get off till 8V2 o'clock. We passed through a pretty level country & made a very respectable road, stopping after travelling 7 or 8 miles to let the mule train, who were very kind in modestly remaining in the rear this morning, pass and try their hands at 16 This water hole was probably the Ojo de Inez, described as one of the few sources of permanent water between the Rio Grande and San Pedro Rivers.

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Overland to California making a new road. At this point we discovered a smoke raised a little to the right & the waggons made a line for it. Large lakes of sand1' lay near our road, which looked, as the sun glittered on them, exactly as if there was water. These were taken, from the top of some of the mountains, for lakes of water. We soon came to camp where water was found in small pools, sufficient, however, for all of us. The sand & dust flew considerably, & at the distance might be seen whirlwinds carrying the dust high in the air. The ox train were close on the heels of mules coming to camp. Nothing has yet been heard of Gordon, nor the men that went with him. Grass not as good as usual. Distance 12 miles. I think this might be cut down to at least 10 miles by striking more directly for this point. Friday, October 19th. Last night, just before time to turn in, it began blowing strong from the N.W., quite cold, & soon shifted to the S. & then towards morning to S.E.E., not, however, moderating at all. It was extremely cold all night, & notwithstanding our tent, blankets, &c., I rested very uncomfortably. In fact, this morning I was quite sick. The wind did not abate & even morning came, it still blowing and freezing. Ice a quarter of an inch thick was found this morning in the pails, & also the ponds were frozen over. Blankets & overcoats were in demand, fires were small but were well surrounded. The cattle strayed considerably & we did not get off till after the mule train had started. The train moved briskly & we soon reached a ridge of rocks. It not being my day to drive, in company with Messrs. Seely & Brooks, I built a fire at the west end of the ridge, where we found plenty of dry wood. It was pleasent to have a fine fire & we lay off quite comfortably. The stone is of an substance like plaster. From the " North and west of the present town of Lordsburg, New Mexico, in the basins at the north end of the Pyramid Range. These are referred to in the exploration and survey reports of the 1850's as the Pyramid Playas.

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on the Southwestern

Trail

natural shape of our fireplace, I have taken the liberty of calling it Fireplace Rock." After crossing this ridge, the road was good till we came to the foot of the mountain, where we found a little water, not enough, however, to warrant our unyoking & taking a bite. On we went & camped, after traveling about 15 miles, where there was no water but plenty of wood which the boys gathered in any quantity, being determined to keep warm. Nothing yet heard of our Indian ambassadors, and some fears are entertained of their safety. We suffered for want of water & I thought I never was as thirsty in my life. Distance 16 miles. (After we descended into the canyon I noticed that the ground was strewn with beautiful white flint stones & others of superior beauty.) Saturday, October 20th. The talk this morning was that 5 miles would bring us to the pass in the mountains & there we would find water plenty. The mule train took the lead & on we rolled, over at first a level road; but, as we neared the mountains, it became worse, going over many deep, short gulleys which would make the waggons creek. We came to the top of the hill, the descent to the canyon below being pretty steep, where we found the mule train encamped, but we found we had already travelled over 9 miles;18 here we heard the pleasing intelligence that there was but a scanty supply of water here & that we would have to proceed a league farther where there was a running stream. I here obtained a drink & felt as if water was never as grateful before. On we went over an ugly road, crossing numerous dry arroyas, & after going 2 leagues, instead of 1, we came to camp after a Near what is now known as Stein's Peak. The Fremont Association made their crossing through the Peloncillo Range, as described above, probably by Stein's Pass, where the Southern Pacific Railroad and New Mexico Highway No. 14 today pass through that mountain range, a few miles east of the Arizona-New Mexico boundary line. 17 18

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Overland to California tedious days' march. The water consisted of a pretty little stream running N.W. & either losing itself in the sand, or paying tribute to the Gila or some of its branches. We called it (as it is not laid down on the map) Welcome Creek, the margin of which was quite marshy.19 The grass good & wood plenty. The mule train did not follow us, so the oxen this time came out ahead. The oxen & horses were badly in want of water when we arrived. It is reported that gold has been seen, but as I did not see it I can not vouch for it. I noticed today a different specie of the dagger plant, American aloe or maguey, the stalk of which was from 15 to 20 ft. high, with branches or arms at intervals all the way up, bearing the fruit on these branches. The leaf of this plant has teeth & is pretty thick. Distance 15 miles. Sunday, October 21st. There was some division this morning about starting, but all concluded to proceed, excepting No. 1, who, either from contrariness or some other cause, were determined to stop. We proceeded up the stream about % mile from our encampment & then crossed without difficulty. It was very cold last night, & ice V2 inch thick covered the water pails this morning. Doctors Thomas & Lincoln, Mr. Bird & Gordon, together with Le Petit Apache, arrived in camp this morning, & we may now note it down that we will not meet Mr. John Apache, except it be on the field of battle. Our ambassadors surprised 3 Indian camps, but as soon as they were discovered the Indians retreated in haste. In one instance, after climbing up over briers & brush, a mountain lodge, which took half a day, they found in this retreat (a space about 20 acres) women & children, who fled in all directions, excepting one old woman who told them they had " This stream was the San Simon River, a tributary of the Gila, which usually has water in the upper portions of the stream, the marshy San Simon Cienega. The early U. S. military explorers of the region in the 1850's gave the stream die Spanish names of Rio Sauz or Rio San Domingo, probably learned from their Mexican guides. B

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on the Southwestern Trail better leave immediately. But they staid some time for the return of the warriors, so determined were they to see them. The war party consisted, they thought, of about 30 warriors. Among their stock was seen a horse belonging to a man named Coombs, who was one of the 8 pack mule men that left us at Mule Spring. In this party were the two Browns & Messrs. O'Brien & Harrington, late of our Association. A hat picked up on Indian trail, they say, also belonged either to Coombs, or one of the party. About the horse, it is said there is no mistake, as one of the party had ridden him before. Doubts are entertained for this party & Colonel Hays says no doubt that these Indians have been committing some depredations, & that they thought that our party were chasing them, & thence they were so shy of these 4 men. These men were so hungry that they made a meal on part of an old horse which the Indians had partially demolished; they were also half starved when they came to camp. Our road was through a thick chapparel this morning, which made it unpleasant. Also, the dust flew about, adding to the unpleasantness. The point or gap, for which we started, seemed some distance off. After we had travelled the 10 miles, which was the distance set down this morning, we had to work for a few moments on the road this afternoon, and altogether we did not travel very fast. We could see the mule train at a distance, coming on. We travelled till near dark, when one of No. 3's oxen gave out, & when I reported it to the captain he thought we had better stop for the night & although the chapparel was thick & a good chance of losing our cattle, we formed a corral & some of us hobbled them. A good many of our boys had gone ahead, & one by one they came dropping back, warned by our fires that we had camped. The pack mules went on, determined to find water or burst, the guide with them. The mule train came up & camped just behind us. The point is still said to be some 6 to 10

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Overland to California miles off. We saw the tracks of a large, wild bull today. This must be about the range where it is put down on the maps as abounding in numerous herds of wild cattle, &c. Today was a tedious march with the little satisfaction of camping without water. Distance 13 miles. Monday, October 22nd. Our oxen were difficult to find this morning, as we were surrounded by thick chapparel, & we did not get off till late, the mule train ahead. The road was extremely bad this morning & two waggons belonging to the Pine Bluff Company broke down before we got 4 miles. After travelling 5 we came to where some water was found at the foot of the mountain. We took out our team & watered them & soon hitched up to move on, & had proceeded about 1% miles when we heard the unpleasant intelligence that we could not get through the Pass & we had better stay here. We turned back, soon got back & camped about % mile from the water. No. 8's oxen made a brush & came through our tent in driving up, & took away one side of it. Gordon stopped at our camp on his way to mule train, & we gave him some supper. He had been hunting for a mule lost by the train. He saw a couple of Indians sneaking about our last camp. No. 1, we hear, are camped where we stopped last night. A company of pack-mule Californians from Missouri are camped 4 miles back. I will now relate as much as I know of the history of this young man, Gordon, to show what an amiable character he bears. The way he came among the Apaches is he, having committed murder at the Pass, was obliged to flee one way or the other. The Camanches were on one side, the Apaches on the other. He chose the latter & has been trading or an agent for trading ever since. Major Stein's, the commanding officer of the garrison at Donyano, recommendation of him was that he would steal, lie & kill, but he was true to you. The horse he brought from the Pass was 182

on the Southwestern Trail the most celebrated horse about Chihuahua, called the "Biddle horse." His is said to have extraordinary powers & although a little past his prime, can travel 80 miles a day as well as the general run of horses can 30 or 40. This horse formerly belonged to an Indian Chief, & John Glanton, obtaining him, brought him to El Paso where he sold him to a man named Eves who came out in the train with us from San Antonio, for $200 dollars. Gordon stole the horse from this man, &firstoffered him for sale to some of our boys, & afterwards presented him to Colonel Hays, who has an order in his pocket from Eves for him. Gordon is now a little afraid of the Indians, or a part of them. He says he knows where there are a couple of cavayo yards near Tueson, also where there is some money, all of which he is making calculations on raising. It is said in one of intrusion of the Indians it was this man, Gordon, that, standing on the opposite side of the river & pointing to a lot of horses which they had stolen, told the owners & American troops in plain English to come and get them if they dared. This is about all I know of the history of this "nice young man." The last few days have been extremely warm, in comparison, & very pleasant. Even the nights are not so cold, but towards morning it gets cool. Although we travelled some 9 .miles, altogether, we made only 5 on our road. Tuesday, October 23rd. We lay still this morning & the captain went to the mule camp to find out about the Pass, &c., & when we should start. A man, who owns a waggon & that lately joined the Pine Bluff Company, named Vice, which indeed is very appropriate, as he is, although a good-natured fellow, a horse trader, gambler, liquor dealer, &c., came to camp this morning. His waggon had gone ahead. He said they had found a pass through the mountains & that the train would roll on in the morning. I washed some clothes & spent the rest of the morning in reading. The captain reported that we should make an early 183

Overland to California start tomorrow morning. The party of Missourians on pack mules came up this morning. They have been about 90 days coming through, & their animals look pretty well. They report the cholera as being very bad indeed at the west. At St. Louis & Cincinnati the inhabitants & emmigrants had been dying in thousands. It was not so bad in N. York. They killed but one Indian, who was attempting to steal their horses. They had not seen any Apaches. Dr. Thomas, going to or returning from, the other camp, says he saw an Indian. Mr. Young of No. 1 came to camp & reported they had lost their oxen. He brought some water back to the mess. Wednesday, October 24th. We were awakened last night about ten o'clock by the arrival of Messrs. Brooks & Leavy, who reported that they had not yet found their oxen & wished to borrow a couple of yoke to draw their waggon to water. Mr. Conry trailed the oxen back to Welcome Creek on the road, & seated round a pleasent fire at our old encampment were 4 Indians, who fled on his approach. He also thought it was time to be missing, & without further search, returned. He, in company with Mr. Thompson, started back again at the light of the moon, determined, if possible, to bring back the cattle. They slept with us, & No. 4 entertained one, & we, the other, at breakfast, when we & the above mess lent them a yoke apiece, with which they returned. Mr. Bratten of our mess went back with them. He returned, however, & said that the boys had not returned. The road was tolerable good till we reached the pass, which was indeed a romantic one.20 We followed the bed of a dry arroya where there was scarcely room for the waggon wheels, let alone room for the driver. This road was overshadowed by handsome trees, among which I noticed the pecan, the ash, oak, 30 The party crossed the Chiricahua Mountains by way of Apache Pass, then known to them as Paso or Puerto del Dado.

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on the Southwestern Trail willow, &c. After leaving this part of the road we came on to a more open country, very hilly, many of which were very steep. Many slopes which we ascended and descended were as much as V/2 to 1 & 2 to 1. We, however, came safely through & camped with the mule train at a little stream, or a spring, gently flowing from the rocks or mountains. Some of the train camped on the hills, some in the valleys & all around. The Matagorda Company (pack mules) went on some distance & returned, they not having a guide with them. It is said to be 25 or 30 miles to the next water & all good road, after we get about 1 mile further, which takes us out into the prairie. Mr. Capertown31 of Colonel Hay's mess & who has accompanied him on several of his expeditions, is quite sick. Also a Mr. Hailing. Colonel Hays shot a black-tailed deer, the 1st, I believe, shot by the expedition. It was killed 150 yds. off. A young man named Saunders, of the pack mule crowd, is missing since yesterday. It is supposed he took some trail which has led him astray and that he is lost. Mrs. Phillips, better known to the teamsters as "Fred," has taken Monsieur Petit Apache, cut his hair, washed his face, put a gown on him, & altogether made him look quite slick. Mr. & Mrs. P.'s waggon has broken down. On the rolling country after we left the arroya, the mountain sides were beautifully studded with scrub oak. I also noticed cedar, the finest I have seen in some time. Distance 10 miles. Thursday, October 25th. We understood that we should start today at 12 o'clock, the hour at which the mule train intend to start, but the captain desired to wait for No. 1 & therefor not move till tomorrow. We have excellent water here & the best grama grass is found on the hills, wood plenty & handy. It is supposed we are about 40 miles from Tueson. I saw a rattlesnake today, the 1st in some time. We made a lunch on penola, which, when sweetened, is very nice. It is said to be more palatable a

Major John Caperton, Hays' longtime friend and associate.

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Overland to California when mixed with spices. The mule train started at little after 12 o'clock. The mountains through which we are forcing our passage are laid down on the map as the Black Mountains.23 No. 1 arrived here about 4 o'clock, bringing their oxen with them, which Messrs. Thompson & Conry tracked back & found them at daylight, coming down to water. They say that there was a fire at our old campground, and that they could see persons put wood on it who were undoubtedly Indians, & that they had charge of the oxen. It is lucky for them, & I hope hereafter we will all proceed together in harmony. We start tomorrow about 11 o'clock, so says the captain. We soaked our wheels in water to spread them, as the tires became loose with the late rough travel. 23

Actually the party was coming through the Chiricahua Range.

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Apache Pass to the Pima Villages on the Gila Friday, October 26th. The mornings are pleasent lately and coats are easily despensed with. The cooks are preparing this morning for our long march. The Missourians started this morning & we were left alone in our glory. The 1st waggons started at about IIV2 o'clock, & all were on the move by 12 o'clock. The first 2 miles of the road was very bad, and like the other parts of the pass. After we left the mountains our road was still rolling, and many times we were obliged to lock our wheels. However, after getting on the plain, the road was beautiful, with the single exception that it was very dusty. It was my drive, & I am sure that I must have swallowed at least a half peck of Mexican land before we reached camp, which was 9 o'clock. We past the place where the mule train had camped last night, just at dusk, & extended our march about 5 or 6 miles further. There was a good deal of debate about what most supposed to be a large lake ahead; others affirmed it was sand, & some a fog. For myself, I was certain it was water, as the sun shone upon plain enough. Also, another cause of debate was a fire we saw, & the question was, how far it was oflE? The grass was poor where we stopped, being wire grass & no wood. Luckily we put some wood on our waggon which the boys picked up at the place where the mule train had passed the night. The boys all had their casks full, & therefor there was no begging or borrowing. My brother's name & mine were called as being part of the guard for the night. Distance 14 miles. 187

Overland to California Saturday, October 27th. It is extremely pleasent, after driving from 11 o'clock to 9 at night & stop, tired and sleepy, & after swallowing a few cold beans & some hard biscuit, then tumbling into bed, to be awakened after a couple of hours rest to go on guard, & there stay shivering & shaking for a couple of hours. But it is duty, & therefor is right, but it is [not] pleasent. We got a late start, as the cattle had strayed a considerable distance from camp. As the grass was poor & no water, some of them were as far as 4 or 5 miles off. Our waggon started with only two yoke, the rest we got as we came on. After travelling some 4 miles over a level plain we entered a great sand plain, level and smooth as a ballroomfloor.1We passed a small pond of water near the road, but it was so salt that the horses would not drink it. We had considerable sport, some of us that were in advance of the train, in racing our horses on this level road. I only engaged in one, that with Mr. Sileckson, & came off the victor. We saw the camp soon after we started. The mirage was shown today in such a degree of deception that, to use the phrase of some of the boys, a person would bet his whole pile on it. I was certain we were surrounded by water, in which you could see the shadow of the mountains, till I looked back & saw the waggons in this water. As we neared the camp the ground began to grow soft & some of us making a short cut to it almost got bogged. There was water on this part of this great lake, about 4 inches deep & very salt. The border of the lake was covered with salt & sand, much resembling snow. The first of us arrived just as the last of the mule train were leaving the ground, & here we heard the pleasing intelligence that it was 25 or 30 miles to the next water. I noticed on the ground a good many 1 The party was now on the Willcox Playa in the Sulphur Springs Valley, south of the present town of Willcox, Arizona. Parts of this great "dry lake" were covered with water when the Fremont Association passed, as it was during the wet season.

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on the Southwestern Trail skulls and bones of beaves, which no doubt the Indians had stolen from the Mexicans & butchered here. The springs of fresh water boil up here & lose themselves in the sand.2 Our horses were extremely dry. The waggons did not arrive here till after 4 o'clock, & we heard that No. 4 had lost old "Beeswax," that venerable ox, who had fallen a victim to the fatigues of long journey & the infirmities of old age. I was sorry they were not able to bring him to water. We saw a party advancing behind our train, & there were many conjectures as who they were. They proved to be part of the pack mule company who had been trying some short cut & got defeated. Our path today lay through a country presenting the greatest natural phenomenon of any we have yet passed through on this expedition—a tract of land some 10 miles in width, & perhaps from 40 to 60 or even more in length, without the least sign of animal or vegetable life upon, level & beautifully smooth. This great lake is no doubt often covered with water flowing from the mountains, which in greater or less magnitude arise on all sides of it. The greater part of our road today (excepting where the ground was soft), was the best for the length we have ever rolled over. The little rain that fell last night laid the dust, & all we had to do was to roll on. We passed the hoof of a mule on the road which, no doubt, one of the animals ahead of us had lost. There is plenty of game sign about us. Distance 16 miles. Sunday, October 28th. Last night was a beautiful one. The moon, though not yet having attained the summit of her glory, shone upon us in a style which made everything look cheerful. The air was a little cool, but that we must expect at this season. The word was to start at noon, as usual on commencing such 2 This group of small, freshwater springs at the northwest corner of the Willcox Playa is known as Croton Springs.

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Overland to California drives. Gordon says that there was water 9 miles from here when he went through before, & thinks we will find some, while the guide says there was none when he passed through. It is a pretty sight to see a town of emmigrant waggons moving off together, one after the other, & although our train consists of only 13 waggons, still we make considerable show. All the waggons today were ready together, & as soon as the first rolled out they followed. The train moved slowly at first, although the road was good, although slightly ascending as we reached the hills. Sure enough, there was a running stream 8 or 9 miles from camp, but some of them said it would be impossible to get our oxen to it, & as no order was given to stop, on we went. Some of the boys watered their horses, but this I was unable to do, as I was driving, but as much as I could see of the place it was about 100 yds. from the road in gulley to the left of the road. No sign of water on the road. By unecking the oxen, I have no doubt they could reach the water easily. Just before we got to the place where the water was, we entered a little valley through which we travelled a short distance, which after leaving the character of country became more rolling & we had some pretty steep hills. It became cool & chilly after sundown, but soon the moon appeared with all her radiant beauty, which made it more cheerful. One could not help exclaiming with the poet Moore: "How sweetly does the moonbeam smile." We passed the last night's mule encampment about 2 hours before we stopped. The last two miles of our road was extremely hard, ascending & descending the steepest kind of hills, & very long ones at that, over a barren stony country abounding in nothing but bear grass & the aloe. The oxen walk as if they were stepping on eggs, & they were well used up as we camped on top 190

on the Southwestern Trail of one of the hills." It was half past ten when we got camped, & all were tired & sleepy, besides hungry. The ground was so stony that it was almost impossible to get our tent pins in. The grass was poor, & scarce at that. Distance 15 miles. We should have travelled a greater distance in this time, but the road, or a part of it, was bad. Monday, October 29th. The oxen were close to camp this morning, having been too much worn out to stray far during the night. We made an early start, & for 2 or 3 miles the road was such as the latter part of last night's, hilly & stony, the road winding to make it as easy as possible. After descending an extremely bad hill, we came in to a little valley through which ran a dry branch.4 The road now was good & we rolled on steadily, following the valley for about 10 or 12 miles. I walked most of the way & thought the valley would never end, winding & turning hill after hill, but a large ridge of mountains were visible, at the foot of which I knew the stream must run. No. 4 broke their king bolt on the road & one of No. 3's oxen gave out. I reached the river" before the train on other side of which the mule train were camped. I was extremely thirsty myself, & my mare, I thought, would never stop drinking. There is considerable suffering, even on our short stretch of 30 or 40 miles. Even to want a drink is something. The day was very warm & the dust thick, which, added to the rest, made our march tedious. The 1st waggons 3 Leaving Croton Springs, the party moved through the broken mountain chain on the west of Sulphur Springs Valley, via Nugent's Pass, named after John Nugent, a member of Colonel Jack Hays' party on this trip. Eccleston's description indicates that the Fremont Association camped on the summit of the pass, where the terrain is rolling and hilly. 1 From the hilly summit, Nugent's Pass followed the Tres Alamos Wash to its junction with the San Pedro River, descending along the bed of the arroyo itself a good part of the way. This route reached the river at a point opposite Tres Alamos, near the "narrows" of the San Pedro, twenty to twenty-one miles from the summit of Nugent's Pass. s

The San Pedro.

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to

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reached the ground about 5 o'clock, & the last about sundown. Some of mule waggons did not get in till after dark, & their mules were well beaten out. We passed a horse on the road that was in the agonies of death, belonging to them. Mr. Folsom, of the Pine Bluff Company, killed a bear this morning in the mountains, but did not approach it, as another ran towards him. He came to river & got some 2 of the boys, after watering their horses, to go back with, but they were unable to find the place. I noticed near our camp this morning several beautiful species of the cactus, which grow on this sterile ground. We camped on this side of the river. Grass only tolerable, wood plenty. Distance 18 miles. Two of the members in "Vicious Mess" got fighting this moming & are now bright specimens of the pugilistic art.

Tuesday, October 30. The mule train & pack mules started this morning, excepting Captain Richardson & his nephew, of the Missourians, who lost 4 mules last night. Vice's waggon crossed the river this morning early. This river, the San Pedro, is extremely boggy & has to be crossed by making a brush bridge, which the mule boys made, but our captain took a man from each mess to repair it. We started about 9 o'clock, or a little after. Our waggon had but 3 yoke, as one of them were missing but found again as we were waiting at the ford. We did not, however, put them in. We were the fourth that crossed, & the bridge sank pretty well with us, the water coming nearly up to the box. I was obliged, in order to manage my team, to jump in beside them, & got wet above the waist, & imprudently left my wet clothes on to dry, the effects of which I felt before night. We all crossed safely, the bridge being fixed several times. We camped about Vi mile from the ford. Reports that there was water ahead a short distance, but our captain rode 4 miles on & could not find it. Water was afterwards found about V2 mile ahead, off the road some 50 steps, where two or three of the Pine B. Co. & Vice camped. 192

on the Southwestern Trail The sun did not come out bright today, & we had a few sprinkles of rain. I was engaged this afternoon in putting new pins in my yoke bows, which were in bad condition. A yoke of our oxen were missing, & we were afraid they had got into the river, to get out of which it is almost impossible for them. Several did get in & we had to use ropes, & some got into the water before we were able to get them out. We found our yoke before night. No. 3's ox, that they had to leave on the road, came up this morning himself, & today got into this boggy river, which hurt him so it is doubtful he'll recover. I cannot agree with Colonel Cook, who calls this a beautiful little river, although where he crossed it, some 10 or 15 miles above, it may have presented more amiable qualities. Here it is lined with a poor growth of swamp willow & other brush, so that it cannot be seen till you come within a few feet of it; & then the bank is perpendicular, not affording an easy access to its waters, which, though not very clear, is good. The banks & bed are extremely boggy, & it is the worst place for cattle & horses we have yet been, being obliged to watch them very close. They say it is 18 miles to the next water, & 12 from there to Tueson, but I think we will find it a little more. The guide says it is only about 4 miles in a direct line to Cook's road, & that we strike at the next watering place. From the sign near us, it is supposed that about 500 Indians have lately camped & having with them a large drove of cattle as their is a wide beaten road; [we found] the remains of an ox which they killed here for meat. Perhaps these cattle were driven from Tueson. The wigwams are very comfortable & almost as good as a tent. There have been some fish caught in this river; they are called mountain trout. Wolves are plenty here & quite tame. It rained towards evening & promised to be a wet night, the wind blowing furiously. I did not feel very well, having a burning fever on me. 193

Overland to California Wednesday, October 31st. It rained considerable last night, but towards morning the moon shone bright & although it did not look very clear, it abstained from rain. There was considerable division about starting, but I thought it was well understood that we were to be off early this morning. Our oxen had strayed considerably, & it was late before we found them. Captain said those that choose might go on, & the rest stay. Two of P. B Co.'s, including the captains, started a little before 10 o'clock, & our waggon rolled out the 1st from our encampment, about V2 past 11 o'clock. The road was extremely heavy for the first 4 or 5 miles, being over sanding soil, much, to me, resembling the valley of Rio Grande. Leaving this, we ascended a very heavy hill & got on harder ground, the country still rolling. We could see 4 waggons following us, winding their way through the hills. We followed an Indian trail which brought us to the foot of the mountains, in the niches of which, from the greenness of the trees &c., I think there must be water. We passed another horse left to himself on the road, which makes 5, between horses & mules, have been left since the encampment at this edge of salt lake. We also passed a couple of large encampments, one of which was a large Indian one, & the other either Indian or Mexican Army. The road was pretty good after we got up out of the bottom. Coming into a rough country & a narrow valley, we got up on some of the adjoining hills, and, not seeing camp, we determined to wait for our waggons & camp for the night. It was about dusk when it came up. Mr. Brower rode up & said that their waggons were only about 2 or 3 miles back, & he came on to find some of the head waggons. Here we were, alone in our glory in the midst of an Indian country, with late Indian signs all around us; in fact, the two of our boys that were with the waggon were certain that they saw 5 Indians on one of the hills. They might possibly have been 194

on the Southwestern Trail antelopes, or some other Californians, but they thought they were Indians, as there was no water about. We hobbled the two yoke of our oxen that generally stray the most, & tied our horses close to the tent. We ate supper by moonlight, which consisted of jerked beef & sour beans, & some hard bread; & after being sure all our arms were in order, we made our beds as comfortably as possible. We lay down, leaving ourselves to the protection of that kind Providence that so often had guarded us before. It began to cloud up as we retired, with a fair prospect of rain. An ox belonging to the Pine B. Co. passed us, keeping in the road, no doubt in search of water. Distance 2 miles. Thursday, November 1st. Our oxen had not left the valley, our horses were where we tied them, & we had a prospect of a fine morning. After a good breakfast we made an early start, seeing the fires of the other boys behind. The road was hard for the oxen & even when over the hills, the chapparel was so thick that it took considerable care to miss the large mezquites, &c. We arrived at camp at 10 o'clock & found Vice's, Miller's, & the other Pine Bluff waggons that came ahead. The mule train had just left. The water was in marshes, coming from springs, & a little brackish. The whole of the waggons got up before noon & it was decided that we should stay for the day. Just about dinner time some of the Missourians somehow or other set fire to the prairie, which soon spread with the rapidity of lightening. It commenced on the opposite side of the branch about Vé mile off. Our oxen were on the other side also, & our 1st efforts were directed towards them, & we ran as never men ran before. The grass, or rather cane, was some 6 ft. high, & where I crossed it was extremely warm from the fire. It crossed the branch & we now had to look after our waggons, &c., which we moved near the branch where the grass had previously been burnt. Such a scrambling & pulling of waggons & letting down tents, &c., was never seen. 195

Overland to California The wind was blowing high & towards us. It did not go out till some time after dark. We here strike Colonel Cook's trail, which the guide says has not been travelled since Cook went over it, the emmigrants taking another route going around the mountain." Some mules were left here, having given out. We had a social meeting last evening, the 1st in some time, & there was considerable attendance. Colonel Watson was in the chair & the performance opened with "Banjo." Mr. Conry's "My Native Land" & "You'll Remember Me" were excellent, & Mr. Monell's "Irish Gentleman" brought forth bursts of laughter. Colonel Watson gave us the "New Hat" [?] which also created laughter. I recited the "Battle of Waterloo" & sung "Stop dat Knocking." We broke up, all well pleased, the captain mounting guard. No. 3 left their ox that gave out & which subsequently fell into the Pedro, not having got up since they pulled him out. They ended his misery by shooting him. One of the No. l's oxen is unfit for work & no doubt will soon be left. Distance 8 miles. Friday, November 2nd. We had a decided change in the weather last night, it raining & blowing furiously, 1st coming from S.W., but this morning the wind was north & very cold, though not raining. We prepared for a start, the captain designing to go but to the next water today, 5 miles, as our cattle have been working hard, & we may as well rest here as stay at the town, where it is likely we willfindlittle or no grass. We passed, after travelling about 2 miles, an old ranch put there for mining purposes. Copper ore was seen around & where there were two smelting furnaces. The house was small. We followed up the branch, now & then leaving it. The foot trail was plainly marked. 6 That is, south of the Whetstone and Santa Rita ranges, to the town of Santa Cruz, below the border, and thence down the Santa Cruz Valley to Tucson, where they again met Cooke's Road.

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on the Southwestern Trail The great plant "Cereus Giganteus" was seen on new road today, a little to the right. It contained one upright column, about 14 ft. high, & two arms growing from its centre, one long one & the other not more two or three ft. We soon came among lots of them of different shapes. We found one mule waggon on the ground, having broken their tongue. This is the head of the same branch we camped at this morning. I was sorry to hear that my brother's horse had died on the way up from the last camp. He was driving him before him, as he has been doing for some time, & suddenly he reeled & fell & was dead in less than 15 minutes. He was a handsome dun horse, with black mane & tail, & of a hardy nature. I went hunting in the afternoon with Mr. Adams, but after travelling some 6 or 8 miles we returned, having seen some deer, but too far for a shot. This stream, I am certain, sinks here, as I find no water below. There are some of the largest trees near here that I have seen in a long while. This 5 miles were the shortest we have travelled in some time. Miller's & Vice's waggons started from here at noon. Douglas' mule left here, shot in the leg. Mr. Rogers shot a fawn [?] this evening. Saturday, November 3. It was extremely cold last night & the thick white frost that covered the ground looking much as if it had snowed a little, attested to the truth of this. Fires were indispensibles & groups could be seen around them shivering & shaking. We commenced our preparations early & after an almshouse dinner, consisting of penola & boiled rice, both without sweetening or anything else, we made a start about 12 o'clock. We left the valley at the start & had a rough time of it till we reached it again, having to come down one of the worst hills we have ever descended, threatening to overturn the waggon every moment, or, which is as bad, break it to atoms. After we followed the valley for 4 or 5 miles, we got up on the level land &

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Overland to California the road was good. We did not travel very fast. We travelled till about 8 o'clock, & it was very unpleasant, as the chapparel was thick & the moon did not rise to illume our path. I was glad when we stopped, as it was my drive. A great extent of country that we passed over last night was bare of grass, but the cactus, in its innumerable variety from the prickly pear to the Cereus Giganteus, abound. Mr. Adams brought us in a large rabbit. Distance 14 miles. No. 1 & 3, who helped each other ascending some of steep hills, as they have but 2 yoke apiece, did not come up. Sunday, November 4th. We made a fair start this morning, to enable us to reach the town in good season. No. 1 & 3 camped about 3 miles back of us last night. The road good this morning. After travelling about 7 miles we came to where the road forked, & across the one that looked like a continuation of the one we were on was laid a log & a note from the captain to take the left hand road, & that it was 2 or 3 miles to water. I rode ahead of the train & coming to the place, I found the captain, who said that we were still some 14 miles from Tueson, & that this was only a town of mixed Mexicans & Indians.7 Plenty of large mezquite timber, excellent water close by in a running stream, & pretty fair plenty, such as it is, make it a tolerable good campground, with the exception that it is an easy place to lose cattle & horses. We are warned that we have fallen among a gang of thieves. The mule train have gone on. We took the wrong road at the spring where the fire took place, & have kept too far south; but, as we do not know how the mistake occurred, we can say nothing now. It blew up cold in the afternoon, & we expected a norther, but towards evening it grew fine again. There are all kinds of stories afloat here about various subjects, & one is our route. It is said that we will have a scarcity of water, but a good road & good grass, but that we would see sights on account of water; ' San Xavier del Bac, actually about eight to ten miles from Tucson.

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on the Southwestern Trail that after we leave the 10-mile water place beyond Tueson we will have to go 68 miles without it, except that it should rain plentifully; that many oxen have died on the way, & many waggons & teams have been sold, or exchanged for mules, at the settlement. Again, about the gold, there is a man here that gathered $6,000 in ten days, & another that got some 100 lbs., but that all foreigners were ordered from the country. Distance 10 miles. Mr. Rogers killed two antelopes this morning. This town is called San Sabieur. Monday, November 5th. We do not move today, so says our worthy captain, but herded our cattle that they might not get away. My turn to herd came first, taken in regular guard order. It was much pleasenter than a night guard, as I was able to read Charles Chesterfield. After my guard was over I went to the town, as it is called, to see what was to be seen. This place consists of a large cathedrel, which is the principal feature & which no doubt was built by some missionary to try & civilize & devotionize these degraded Indians.8 The rest of the town consists of a number of Mexican adobes & Indian huts. These huts are made of straw, in the shape of a haycock, with a small door or opening in front, the fire being built in centre. The Indian women were generally at work, either making earthen pots (& the perfection to which they bring this art shows that they are not altogether devoid of ingenuity or talent), & others shelling corn, &c. The Mexican women were grinding wheat & corn on their matats, notwithstanding there is a mule in the place grinding by mule power, which is, however, based on very primitive principles. These Indians are, I believe, Apaches." There is a large number of very fine cattle here, which are pretty much all owned by a 8 The original mission at San Xavier del Bac was begun in 1700 under the direction of Padre Eusebio Kino.

" From his description, it would appear that Eccleston mistook the Papagos of San Xavier for Apaches.

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Overland to California single individual. A few hens & chickens are found, & some hogs. Eatables generally very scarce, & even onions are not to be had. The church, which I have sketched, & which appears so grand among the miserable hovels that surround it, is, I believe, of the order of the Jesuits. Captain Shipman went on this morning to see what are the prospects ahead. Vice's waggon took Torrey's10 goods from No. 3 to bring them to town. He is, I believe, going to open a store to try & sell them. Miller & Vice both lost some animal, & all of them have not yet been found. Captain returned after dark & gave orders to move in the morning as far as Tueson. A Mexican at dusk brought a mule to sell to our camp. He at first asked $40 for him when he was well worth more than twice that amount. Some of boys were about trading their ponies but we soon began to suspect the mule as being stolen. He afterwards came down to $30. A mule being missing from a camp nearer town, we sent to see if this was theirs, but our messenger returned saying their had been found. Wilson was willing to run the risk & gave him $5 & his old pony that was just giving out. Tuesday, November 6th. Last night was very cold, but with a promise this morning of a fine day. We were slow in preparing to get off & when ready, the oxen were not all to be found. Our messes were all on hand. We started with two Pine Bluff waggons about 9 o'clock, leaving the other messes to find their oxen. We passed the two waggons ahead of us, they stopping for the purpose of trading oxen, as we entered the celebrated town. The Indians here dress but little, & the women are naked generally down to the waist." Their heads are covered with coarse hair, 10 Probably David S. Terry, who had been a Texas Ranger under Colonel Hays in the early 1840's and in 1849 accompanied him to California, where he became active in law and politics. u Eccleston is describing the Papago Indians in the vicinity of Mission San Xavier del Bac.

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on the Southwestern Trail very thick, & looking exceedingly like a mop. They are generally very masculine in their proportions, particularly about the shoulders & arms. The children (small ones) are entirely naked, & those a little larger wear a serape, & all carrying a bow & arrows, which they use with considerable skill against blackbirds. On a rugged hill to the right of the town is an old cross, looking from its apearence as if it had seen many stormy, as well as sunny, days. From its position no perpendicular or horizontal lines were drawn tofixits position. Here the devotees may be seen winding their way up & down this rocky eminence to pay their vows & per chance to count their beads. It is amusing to see how the babies are laid out on strips of wood & banded down, also to see the women carry them on their backs. We did not delay in town, but rolled moderately on over a good road, & soon came in to the suburbs of the town." No one being on hand to direct, we passed the campground, but the captain overtook us & we wheeled round & returned, taking to the right of the road going to town. About Vi mile brought us to the place, having crossed the stream we camped on this morning, close to camp. It is worse than the last place for losing cattle, but the grass, though the same kind, is a little better. It is about 2 miles to town. No. 1 & some of the Pine B. Co. have not yet found their cattle. Distance 9 miles. Wednesday, November 7th. We had no guard on last night, but were not disturbed, our horses & cattle all safe. I rode to town this morning to see the famous city & found a tolerable respectable town composed of Mexican adobes & a few Indian huts. Their is no large building & their church is much dilapidated. I brought a few little notions to trade with them, but they are up to trade & bid low. Torrey's opening his store also spoils 12 They had reached the outlying portions of Tucson as they approached from the south.

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Overland to California trade in a small way. I, however, made a few little bargains with them & got some tortillas & milk, which were excellent, & started for camp very well satisfied. I believe this town was built for mining purposes, & now contains a population of about 7 or 800 inhabitants. Nearly every house had a small mill, worked by the ass, whose specie is plenty about the town. They are also used in packing wood & also for the saddle. There's no sugar or molasses to be had, but plenty of wheat, flour, corn, &c. Quinces are the only fruit I saw. No onions or any other vegetable, excepting pumpkins & a few pepers. Sheep & goats are also plenty, but pretty dear. There is a story afloat that there is plenty of gold on the Gila, or rather a stream emptying into it, only 30 miles distant. A Mexican here says that if there is not gold found in this place, that he will forfeit his life. A party are going to start for it in the morning, & some of our boys think of joining them. If it is not true, the pack mules can proceed to the Pimas villages, but waggons cannot get through. I have noticed small particles of gold about there in the sands. We made an excellent dinner on rice & milk, the latter being a great luxury. No. 8 & the Pine B. boys all found their cattle & came up this afternoon. All are dreading the long march of 66 miles which we will have to make after we leave the 9-mile watering place beyond town. Thursday, November 8th. A meeting was called last night for the purpose of hearing the views of the members relative to the gold mines of the Gila. Mr. Brower was in the chair, & after some debate, it was put to vote & passed that a committee be sent, consisting of a member from each mess (volunteer), to examine the stream on which is reported the gold is found. After the meeting adjourned, by request Colonel Watson called one of a social nature, which passed the time pleasently till it was ample time to retire. Nothing very exciting took place today, excepting that we were unable to find a yoke of our oxen. The committee 202

on the Southwestern Trail to the Gila did not start, as there being difficulty to get a guide. Torrey is selling his goods, I hear, rapidly. He took in $400 in two hours the other day. Gordon is his principal salesman. It clouded up this afternoon & we had quite a smart shower. We had for breakfast this morning something entirely new, a loaf of corn bread mixed with stewed pumpkin. It was excellent, both ingredients being of the finest kind. Friday, November 9th. A thick white frost was seen this morning, which told the truthful tale that it was very cold last night. Four of us started out this morning in different directions, determined, if possible, to find our missing cattle, & it was not long before Mr. Bratton brought them home. Two or three horses are missing & pretty much given up for lost. The Mule Californians are daily departing, some of them having left their waggons, going it packed. The Gila gold excitement has pretty much died away. Colonel Hays has been very unwell & will not move for some time. Some of the Pine Bluff Co. & I believe some of our boys are about trading oxen, &c. We have adopted the wise measure of hearding our cattle. Saturday, November 10th. Some anxiety among the members to move. A Mexican who has been to California visited our camp. He says he made $350 in 7 days with a common wash bason. He will return in February, as soon as the cold weather is over. Great difficulty in finding cattle. Sunday, November 11th. There was a fandango in town last night & some of our boys went to see it, but reported nothing extra. The day set for our departure, or that some of us are determined to roll out, is tomorrow; being heartily sick of such a miserable place to stop. There is hardly any grass and our horses are falling away, doing nothing. Briers & thorns are plentiful enough, & one cannot go three steps without they lay hold on him in the most familiar manner, & being so affectionate as not wishing to leave him suddenly. 203

Overland to California Monday, November 12th. We did not find our cattle till near noon, after a most dilligent search, the rest of the Fremonters having left the place. We left the P. B. Co. on the ground, who follow us tomorrow or next day. We soon reached the town, laid in a few small things, & went on. I stopped after the waggon some time & got a nice luncheon of milk & tortillas. Corn meal cannot be bought at all at this place. Flour sells for $7V2 the fenega, but is much handsomer than any Mexican flour I have seen, being equal to the generalty of northernflourfor whiteness, &c. We unfortunately missed our way & camped some 3 miles from town near some holes of water surrounded by large mezquite & willow trees, an excellent place to wear out shoes hunting cattle. Grass poor, water good, & wood plenty. Some say that there is no water 9 miles from town, & that when we start we do it for good. There are about a hundred different trails after you leave the town. Distance 5 miles. Tuesday, November 13th. Great difference of opinion in camp respecting water 9 miles from town, and considerable division about starting. Our mess & No. 4, however, were nearly ready for a start when Messrs. Young & Conrey of Mess No. 1 came in (not having been in camp last night) & reported no water at the 9-mile place. This altered our arrangements, & we set to work to fill everything with water that we had. Our mess were rather better prepared than the others, having 3 casks & two India Rubber bags, holding together about 80 gals. We rolled out a little before 1 o'clock & after a little difficulty, struck the road. It looked cloudy during the afternoon & promised rain. We found, after travelling about 3 hours, that the "no water" stories were humbugs. We did not stop, expecting tofindwater a little further on, the water being strung along for nearly a mile in holes; but we camped, it being too dark to travel where there was neither water nor grass, the idea being to drive back & water the cattle

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on the Southwestern Trail in the morning. Distance 10 miles. One of No. 8's cattle gave out this afternoon & No. 4 lent them Scurvy. Wednesday, November 14th. It rained some during the night, & we thought it unnecessary to drive back our oxen to water, but started on. No. 3, however, sent back their oxen, as some of them did not drink yesterday. Messrs. Lawson & I rode back to water our horses before we launched out on the dry stretch. We overtook the boys nooning about 10 miles from camp. The road was excellent, excepting about 1 mile where the road ran through a dry arroya, which was heavy on our teams. We started again at 2 o'clock & did not camp till some time after dark, coming to a patch of grass. We found a hole of water about 20 yds. from the road early in the afternoon, which was sufficient for all our cattle, caused by the rain last night. It was amusing to see the cattle run to it, they not having water since yesterday noon. It grew cold towards night, but we built a large fire & made ourselves comfortable. No. 4 & 8, who stopped to noon before our waggons, did not get up till two hours after we did. No. 3 did not get up. Distance 20 miles. Thursday, November 15th. Our oxen were on hand this morning & we made a pretty early start, leaving No. 4 & 8 on the ground. It rained again last night & the roads this morning were tolerable heavy, but we, notwithstanding, travelled fast. Grass very scarce & water plenty in small holes along the road. We nooned after travelling 13 miles, where we had grass, such as it is, & some water. No. 4 & 8 came up & determined to stop for the night. We travelled on about 3 or 4 miles & found the roads too heavy to proceed & camped at sundown. We passed a grave yesterday & one today. The former I did not see. The latter was situated about 20 steps to the right of the road, near a mezquite tree. It was quite fresh, with a board & cross at the head, with the word "Gordon" on it. We found a waggon body near where 205

Overland to California we camped, which had been left by some Californians, lately passed. Distance 16 miles. Friday, November 16th. We did not make an early start this morning, but spent it in renewing our waggon bows & making a new table, &c., from the remnants of the waggon left. No. 8 & 4 passed us, but we soon caught up to them. We emptied our water out this morning which makes a great difference in our load. We did not stop to noon more than half an hour, there not being any grass, but watered our cattle. We here (No. 6 & 1) passed No. 4 & 8 and travelled on. In the afternoon we met a party of Pimo Indians, 5 or 6 in number. With an interpreter they told us that theriver13ran this side of the mountains ahead, & that we could reach the villages the day after tomorrow easily. They left this morning. They told us that we would find hardly any grass, but water 6 miles. They were fine-looking men, painted, & armed with bows & arrows, & pretty well mounted. They were on their way to Tueson. We invited them to camp with us, to which they agreed & rode back with us, & we stopped where none of necessaries were to be had except wood, as there was not a spear of grass to be seen. We chained our oxen to the waggon wheels, determined to make an early start. No. 4, 8 & 3 came up & camped with us. Distance 11 miles. Saturday, November 17th. Our cook made a most terrable mistake, having made breakfast & waked us up to it before 1 o'clock, which makes the earliest breakfast I have eaten since we have been on the trip. We waited in awful suspense till it was light enough to see the road, & started on, leaving No. 4, 8 & 3 on the ground. The road was not quite so heavy as yesterday, & we rolled on smartly. We passed no grass of any description. After travelling till 11 o'clock we stopped at a campground, where, from the signs, many a brother Californian had camped before us. The grass was chopped off close for a great distance. We did 13

The Gila River.

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on the Southwestern Trail not find the River Gila as we expected, but the water lay in a mud hole. Near the place there was old Indian encampment, the wigwams all standing. No. 8 came up just after us, & No. 3 considerable later, driving but two yoke, one of theirs having given out; & No. 4 also drove but two yoke, the rest of their 5 yoke, with which they started from the Pass, having given out. Our cattle going some distance found better grass than around our camp. Distance 10 miles. A great quantity of skeletons were lying along the road on the latter part of the stretch. Sunday, November 18th. We, together with No. 1 & 8, determined to push on &find,if possible, good grass for our cattle. It was not long before the road came close to the long-looked-for Gila. I rode in to see it, as the cottonwood, willow, &c., obstruct the view, & found a swift stream about 40 ft. wide, not as clear as I expected to see it, but perhaps this may have been caused by the late rain. We nooned where the main road is some Yi mile from the river, but a road leads to branch about 15 ft. wide. There was no grass here. Here I accepted being called by the whole mess to the office of cook, Mr. Chapman having resigned. After a luncheon we moved on to try &find,if possible, a place to camp where there was grass. Messrs. Bratten, Van Bibber, & myself rode ahead, & the 1st thing we noticed was some horses & soon an Indian carrying a load. This made us believe that we were not far from some of the villages, & we soon perceived the tops of houses to the right of the road, & riding across found ourselves in the midst of a Pimo Village." But, to our misfortune, we could not talk to them, as we wished to find a campground, or else get a cornfield for our cattle. We went in & the waggons having rolled up, camped near two large cottonwoods near a Saco. They soon came around with their bundle of cornstalks, 11 The Pima villages were located in the same general area as is embraced by the Gila River Indian Reservation in present-day Arizona.

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Overland to California but none of them would sell till permission was obtained from the chief. When this was got there was great buying & trading, the price generally being 2 bits a bundle. We got some for our oxen & horses. Wood very scarce. In fact, before I could cook supper I had purchased some, but I was determined that the occasion of my entering on the duties of a cook should be celebrated with a good supper. Distance 14 miles.

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Down the Gila Valley

Monday, November 19. We found here on our arrival the party whose waggon we dedicated to tables, &c. They are from Ft. Leavenworth, Mo., started 19th of May, the Apaches having stole their oxen which they tracked some 30 miles. The Indians give us warning to look out for our cattle. They say that a horse & couple of oxen were driven off from here a night or two ago. They are on the lookout day & night, one of their watch towers being a large cottonwood near us. The houses of the Pimos are built of straw & mud, some in round & others square & oblong. The doors are like other Indians', it being necessary to stoop down to gain admittance. They scattered over considerable ground. The villages, I learn, extend 15 miles up the river, & about the same distance down, some, however, being off the main road. The women soon came around our camps with their beans, wheat, &c., wanting money, beads, shirts, &c., in exchange. Everything they had they asked a large price for, & all were well supplied with clothing, beads, blankets, &c. It is a common thing to see at least a quart of beads on one person. They have bought large comfortable blankets for most nothing & offer some of them for sale. I noticed a fine scarlet blanket with an Indian who offered it for sale for $4, a sum much short of which it could not be purchased for in New York. It is a curious sight to see the natives dressed in all fantastic ways, wearing the most flashy colors possible, the men in par209

Overland to California ticular; the women generally wearing nothing but a serape of domestic manufacture, from the navel up being entirely naked, & displaying some of the finest figures I have ever seen. They all appear very healthy & I only noticed one deformed person among them. They have not many oxen or mules, but some splendid ponies for which they ask from $25 to $40, but will not trade much, wanting cash. The chief of this village is a smart-looking young man, & his people seem to obey all his dictates. The head chief or governor of the Pimos came down to our camp this evening, he residing in one of the other towns. He is a rather elderly man, dressed plainly in a blue blanket overcoat, & brought with him several certificates from emmigrants showing forth his good will towards all persons passing through his people.1 He rode a splendid horse. Towards evening the boys began to roll up, & soon they were all about us. We traded for a little Indian meal, &c., paying for everything a good price. Tuesday, November 20th. We (our mess) determined on moving, thinking it rather expensive paying 2 bits for foder for our horses & cattle. We found ourselves alone in this movement, No. 1 intending to butcher an ox, a piece of which I remained to get. The Indians came in to camp this morning in, if anything, increased numbers. I had great sport with some of the fair girls, pretending I wished to bring one to California with me. Some of them are quite wild, running about & hiding, &c. I caught up to our waggon some 6 miles from camp, passing through the whole distance a well cultivated country & some villages. At one village, a large one, where I found our boys, the natives (Pimos) were engaged in a game which seemed very interesting to them. It seemed to me as near to "Button, button, who's got 1 The head chief of the Pimas at this time was "Stjo-e-teck-e-mus," known to the Mexicans of the Gila region as Juan José, or Juan Antonio Llunas. The Pima leader had received many letters of commendation from U. S. military and emigrant parties passing through, beginning with those of General Kearny and Lieutenant Colonel Cooke in 1846. nl n

on the Southwestern Trail the button" as anything else. Four Indians were sitting in two rows facing each other & each party had a sheet which they held in their teeth. This covered their hands through which they passed two small pieces of wood, singing all the while. One of the opposite party who were not thus employed, & whose turn it was, would guess who had the sticks & in which hand they were. If they guessed correct it counted so much & two older men kept game. They, if anything, beat the Indians for fantastic dressing & painting. The last villages we passed through were those of the Coco Maricopas.2 After travelling about 16 miles we camped where there was tolerable good grass, but the water a little saltish, wood scarce. It was nearly dark when we stopped. One of No. 8's oxen died last night. Distance 16 miles. Wednesday, November 21st. We were undisturbed last night excepting by the howling of wolves which approached so near to our tent that I was afraid they would steal some meat from the end of our waggon. I got up & put the tail board in. The Indians about here say that there is mouncho [mucho] Apache about here, but our horses & oxen were unmolested. I think their precautions towards the Apaches are only made to hide their own failings. After a hearty breakfast, a party of about 8 Indians, Maricopas, visited us with corn, pumpkins, &c., for trading purposes, for which they asked extremely high. It was some time before we effected any trade. Among their number were three young women & one of them was perhaps the best-formed woman I ever saw. In fact, she was a perfect model worthy of the Powers or a Vanderlyn," beautifully proportion & of middle 2 A portion of the Maricopas lived with the Pimas, locating their villages along the western perimeter of the Pima settlements on the Gila, just as the Maricopa Reservation is located today—adjoining the Gila Reservation of the Pimas on the west. 8 Hiram Powers (1805-1873) was a sculptor, particularly noted for his busts of famous people, and John Vanderlyn (1775-1852) a well-known historical and portrait painter of the early nineteenth oentury.

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Overland to California stature, every movement was a specimen of native grace. Her hair was plastered up, but with such taste as to look like a coronet. About her neck hung some handsome beads. She was without clothing above the waist, which is, with them, below the pit of the stomach, below which she wore a serape of domestic manufacture, which hung gracefully over her well-proportioned limbs. These Indians do not wear moccasins & their feet are consequently large and their toes a considerable distance apart. I presented her with a ring which I took from my box of trinkets. On looking over Major Emory's report this morning, together with the rumors of the natives, I am satisfied we will have but little grass hereafter, besides taking into consideration the number of emmigrants that have gone through. After dinner Captain Shipman came up & said the waggons were all rolling. Our boys were out looking for a campground where we would have a greater combination of advantages, & came back and said that they found better grass, but the water was the same & wood nearly as scarce. The first waggons rolled up about sundown & passed on, being the P. B. Company. Our company all stopped with us, we intending to roll in the morning. Thursday, November 22nd. We moved this morning near the P. B. Company, about a mile from camp. There is a well dug here of good water. The Indians soon came pouring in upon us with their wares. The men of the Maricopas are very tall & active; if anything, more so than the Pimos. Friday, November 23rd. Trade was brisk today among our boys, a good many wishing to sell off all superfluous clothing, so that, in case our waggons should not go through, their loss will not be so great. The Indians must be watched very close, notwithstanding Major Emory speaks so highly of their honesty. But if they did not know how to steal then, they have since learnt, & are now very promising pupils, taking things from right 212

on the Southwestern Trail before you. Many articles have been stolen by them. A Mexican arrived to here this afternoon from St. Diego. He says that he left the United States commissioner4 at the Colerado, & came for the purpose of getting mules, for which he will go to Tueson. There is some grass on the road but not very much. The mule train were about 70 miles ahead, going on finely. Some waggons have been left on the way, but most all have gone through. He also says that the Colorado is about 4 ft. deep, but that the commissioners have left a boat by which means the Californians cross. He came through from St. Diego in 18 days. He was attended by a couple of men. This news, rather good in its character, has rather cheered our boys & some of them think of leaving sooner than they anticipated. There are some Maricopas villages to the north of our camp, across the river. Two of our mess went to get some corn for our cattle, but were unable to ford the river. It is about 3 miles distant. Vice's waggon moved today. My first effort at making pumpkin bread was quite successful & defied any of the cooks to show as handsome bread as the three loaves I made. They were wheat & Indian with nearly as much pumpkin as both. Saturday, November 24th. Trading dull today, & but few Indians came to camp. We intended to move a few miles tomorrow, but at the request of No. 4 & 8, who could not be ready so soon, we put it off till Monday. No oxen traded for yet. Snow is visible on the mountains to the north. Sunday, November 25th. The Sabbath day again came to tell us of what we are too prone to forget, our duty to a Merciful Providence. Messrs. Adams, Chapman & myself went to town to try and purchase some corn, to take along for our oxen. We obtained it by paying a big price, something like $1.00 a bushel. 4 Lt. Amiel W. Whipple, of the United States Army, astronomer for the U. S.Mexican Boundary Commission, who was sent to the mouth of the Gila River in the fall of 1849 to establish that position in terms of latitude and longitude.

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Overland to California We did not get back till an hour after sundown, having travelled 20 miles at least. No. 8 have determined to lighten their load as much as possible and proceed with two yoke. We have lost an ox of our team, but, as he has been an invalid, we do not mind it much. He has never, however, lain down. Monday, November 26th. Wilson of No. 4 having perchased a tolerable mule, left us this morning, packing his provision thereon. I believe Messrs. Watson & Brower bought him out. I was employed all day in baking bread, prepatory for our long march. The remaining P. B. waggon rolled out at 12 o'clock, & ours, followed by No. 1 & 8, at ten minutes past 2 o'clock, leaving No. 3 & 4 on the ground. Before we started, a great many things were thrown out or sold for a mere nothing to the Indians. No. 8 worked but 2 yoke. We intended to go only a few miles to the last water, but on reaching it determined to push on. We soon reached a grove of cereus. We travelled till 6 o'clock, when we built a fire, took supper, & pushed, the moon smiling beautifully upon us. The road was good & we marched on till 12 o'clock, making some 16 miles, having passed the P. Bluff waggon camped about 4 miles back. We did not pass a single spear of grass so far & not a sign of water. Tuesday, 27th. We were up early & pursuing our way over a barren waste of country. Our oxen were chained to the waggon wheels. We gave them last night a few ears of corn apiece but it was as a drop in the bucket for them. We did not bring any water for them. Our way ascended slowly & we reached the summit of the pass about 11 o'clock. Here the road was more rolling. We nooned at 12 o'clock, not having passed in the morning any grass worth noticing. We were soon rolling again, & I, in company with some of the boys, rode in advance to find, if possible, the river. We found one or two patches of horse mezquite grass where we gave our horses a bite & troted on. We could 214

on the Southwestern Trail see the water of the river about 8 miles off. We did not reach it till dark, & our waggons till 8 o'clock. There was not a spear of grass for our hungry animals. There was neither cane nor willow, & chaining our oxen again to the waggon, we gave them a little corn. One of No. l's cattle gave out, but came up with the P. B. waggon a couple of hours after. The river here is wide; towards what we saw it above it was pretty low. Distance 24 miles. Wednesday, November 28th. We started before sunrise, & without our breakfasts, to enable us to give the cattle their breakfasts. I rode in advance of all our boys & coming round a turn, I saw a couple of horses standing in the road & soon saw two Indians. They were engaged in cutting the leather from a pack saddle. They proved to be Pimos, and from what I could understand, there was four more ahead. The road this morning presented a unpleasant spectacle. It was strewed with waggon bodies, waggon wheels, tires, &c., ox yokes, staples & rings, boxes, barrels, tubs, ox chains in any quantity. In one string there was 6 first-rate ox chains all hooked together and dragged along the road. Fires were scattered all along, but no grass. We passed one waggon, the running geer and box, all but the hoops & tongue, entire. It was an excellent one. On one of the boards was written, "D—n the jackass team that can't eat leather & go to California, D—n such a country," signed W. S. Bratton. Mr. Thompson, who came another road (nearer the river), says it was strewn with all sorts of articles & a great number of the remnants of waggons, they having been burnt. After traveling 8 miles we came to some short grass, which proved to be wild rye, & stopped for breakfast. No. 8's cattle could hardly get here & to add to their misfortune, Mr. Monell's horse got run over & hurt so bad he was unable to get up. He barely escaped; he was driving. We did intend, on first stopping here, to move in the afternoon, but altered our 215

Overland, to California minds as the cattle appeared tired. We got water from a little pond west of our camp. Thursday, November 29th. It rained some during the night. We determined this morning and thought No. 1 would accompany us, but they were not ready and said they would follow in 2 hours. They are going to pack their horses (4) so as to lighten their load. No. 8 are not going to start, but stay back with Jack Lorance. We came to river about % mile from camp & filled 2 casks with water & went on. We passed no grass but this young green kind about an inch long, which gives but little strength to our cattle. On coming to where it was middling plenty we nooned. I noticed in the afternoon a road which turned to the left, while the one we were on took its course toward the river. It struck me at once that the left hand was Emory's road, while this went to the river. We trotted on, & came to where the hind wheels & axle of a large waggon was left. A board laying near had this written on it: "To all whom it may concern Grass in bunches will be found miles SE of here & water at the river, two large cottonwoods marking the place where you can water your stock. These will prepare them for 25 miles without grass or water." On the other side was written that, 6 miles below, the Indians had driven off 14 head of cattle, that two of them came to camp with arrows in them. They pursued the Indians and got 6 back. Look out for your stock. No mention was made whether they were Apaches or not. We saw on the road this afternoon a horse and a bare foot track, both fresh since the rain. We soon came to the river, watered our horses, & turned back to meet the waggon. I took a different turn to the way we came & struck on an old camp where the first thing that attracted my notice was a grave. I next saw a paper pasted on a board and nailed to a mezquite. Near, other boards scribbled on lay around. On a head board of the grave was written, or rather cut 216

on the Southwestern Trail in with an knife, "Elijah Davis, Ark', Sept 5th 1849." The paper read thus (some one full of mischief had torn part of it off, but I found stuck near), "The history or account of the two persons interred here. They both came from Johnson county as teamsters. Geo. W. Hickey drove Mark Lee's team & Davis drove Jno. W. Patrick's team. About 100 miles back they changed places. They arrived here on the 4th inst, and on the 5th they were both herding oxen about VA miles above here when they commenced quarrelling about something of no importance. Hickey struck Davis and they got fighting. Davis whipped Hickey whereupon Hickey, after getting up, stabbed near the shoulder, the knife entering some of the cavities of the heart. He died in twenty minutes. Hickey was arrested by order of the emmigrants generally, there being several companies on the ground, & tried by a jury of 12 men who found him guilty of murder in the 1st degree & was sentenced to be shot, which was done in the following manner. A ticket was placed in a hat for each man, all blank but twelve, who were to shoot. 12 guns were loaded, 6 with powder & balls & 6 with blank charges, & all loaded secretly. They all fired at a signal given from one grave to another (about ten steps) & several balls entered the region of his heart. He died immediately. „ _ „ J (Signed) G . MITCHELL, On another board near (sig.) Wm. O. Appelby what seemed to be to some of his friends behind. He said that the river was % mile off and that the most companies drove their cattle accross to graze, but to be sure & keep a good guard over them. Their were also, on another board nailed to a tree, a good many names & where from, generally ending in "good health." One board had "keep cool & come ahead" written on it. When the waggon came up we concluded to stay for the night & drive the oxen to the river to water. After they came from water we hobbled them

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Overland to California and let them go. Our horses too were loose. We could here the river as it glided along from our camp, very plainly. The road today has been like that of yesterday, though not quite so bad, strewed with chains & almost everything else. Splendid yokes make commonfiresnowadays. No. 1, contrary to my expectation, did not come up, so we were solatory and alone. Distance 12 miles. Friday, November 30th. I was up long before sunrise, cooking, & we made an early start, cattle, horses being all on hand this morning. We had gone but a little way before we came to a few bunches of good mezquite grass, on which our hungry horses made their morning meal. We soon struck the old road & then ascended a steep hill covered with loose round stone, and, from the look of the adjacent mountains, looked much like the work of an eruption. From this hill, looking east, may be seen a vast plain, and the course of the beautiful Gila easily traced by a handsome growth of cottonwood & willow. Before we ascended the hill we passed quite a little forest, accacia, of which Moore says: "Lonely & sweet nor loved the less forflowringin a wilderness." The road descending followed for some distance the bed of a dry branch and part of it was quite rough. We soon got on the tablelands and our course was again clear. We here came across a solatory little hill consisting of rough, brown boulders which were covered with hieroglyphics, some of which were so antique as to be hardly perceptible, while others were of a more recent date. The mound was almost covered with these characters, a few of which I copied." 5 The Painted Rock Mountains, as they are now called, consist of an acre of rocks of from 40 to 50 feet in height, covered with crude painted and carved pictures of men, insects, snakes, birds, and various other figures. Still a sight-seer's item, they are located on the Gila below its big bend to the west.

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on the Southwestern Trail About Vz mile further we came to beautiful patch of grass, % mile off the road to the left, where we nooned, & about 3 miles to the left, in a gap in the mountains, is an old campground where there is grass & a little water. After travelling five miles further, we came in sight of the river, quite unexpectedly. It here spreads over a large extent of ground forming several channels. We descended into it and after following the middle ground for some distance we came back on the same side, taking this course to get around the hill, at the base of which the water sets in. We camped at the foot of a hill some % mile from the river, without a spear of grass. A dry ravine runs between us & the hill. As usual, we passed all kinds of things thrown out. It was a little after sundown when we halted. No. 1 came up about an hour after us. We cut down willows for our cattle to browse on, nothing else eatable being about. Distance 14 miles. Saturday, December 1st. Our horses were uneasy all night & our cattle all strayed off. Some cattle belonging to the Pine Bluff waggon ahead and soon one of the boys came back after them. We drove our cattle to the river to water & started on. We had to ascend a steep hill & when on the tableland, the road for some distance was stony, hurting the oxen's feet. About 5 miles brought us to a steep & wide gulley in which the Pine Bluff boys were camped. Both descending and ascending was hard, the road being stony. The P. B. boys say they saw 20 Indians back at the graves, but they said they were Pimos & Maricopas, & that yesterday morning saw a camp that they had just left. Shraack is 2 days ahead. When we came near the river the road became sandy & extremely heavy, which lasted till we came to camp about 3 o'clock. Shraack's waggons were here yesterday, as a notice was left, but whether they left yesterday morning or this morning was not said. It is % mile to the river & two miles to the hills on the left, where there is some dry horse mezquite grass 219

Overland to California in bunches. We passed some similar on the road about 12 o'clock today. After watering the cattle they were driven to hills. This is most dusty place we have ever had the fortune to camp in. Distance 12 miles. Sunday, December 2nd. Our cattle had strayed so far that we did not get off till 12 o'clock. We found them near the river. Our road was extremely heavy all day and our oxen had all they could do to get along. About 5 miles brought us to the river, where we found a notice, left for Captain Shipman by Miller, that there was grass 1 mile across the river, & that he was told there was some 4 miles ahead. We watered the cattle and started on. At this place we found a cart left & a lot of other articles which were left by some poor emmigrants. A note left on a tree for a Dr. Weird said that the party in question had lost all their oxen but one yoke, and that was in the company; that they had left their waggon & everything they had excepting a few clothes, their bedclothes, a medicine box & some provision. But there has many company shared the same fate, and if all their mishaps were written out there would not be trees enough to contain them. Every nook & corner as well as the main road is covered with unfailing evidence of the misfortunes of Californian emmigrants. After travelling 3 miles we halted and awaited the return of two of the boys, who had gone on to see if there was any grass, but they returned & said that they had been three miles and could see no sign of grass. Our camp is close to the river at a point of rocks consisting of large boulders on which many a Californian had graved his name, some having the audacity to date back as far as 1842, when the marks look as if they had not been done a month. There are large quantities of ducks, geese, brant, & crane. Also quail are abundant through the river bottom. We cut down cottonwoods & willows for our oxen & horses. Distance 8 miles. Monday, December 3rd. Our oxen were close to camp, but

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on the Southwestern Trail took us a long time to find them in the thick wood. No. 1 went on & camped before we started, 3 miles ahead, where they found some dry grass. We determined this morning after a deliberate counsel (our oxen having grown weaker gradually) to leave our waggon, but, unlike many a poor Californian, only to exchange for a better. We found a splendid carriage about Vz mile below where we started from, & after reaching camp, sent back two yoke of oxen to bring it up; it was all complete, but all taken apart. It was close to the river, where, no doubt, the party that owned it had taken to water, making a boat of the box, &c., as many a party have done, from the signs along shore. In the afternoon we were surprised by the unexpected visit of Colonel Hays, whose camp is 300 yds. above us. He has come though fast, travelling some 25 or 30 miles pr. day. They carry corn. The colonel gave us some information concerning our future road & said that when we crossed the desert we would have no difficulty. He also told us we would find good grass between the forks of the Gila & Colorado, where we could recruit before we attempted on the desert. They passed our boys along the road. Distance 3 miles. Tuesday, December 4th. Yesterday we intended to stay here today, but this morning, it looking much as if we were going to have a wet spell of weather, we determined to push on and start at 11 o'clock. Colonel Hays' train passed us early this morning. We filled our casks & started on the road, still heavy. On coming to a fork in the road, the waggon improperly took the right-hand road, which goes to the river. It is nearly 2 miles further and much the heaviest road. After travelling till sundown we camped where we found a spot of dry grass. It rained a little in morning & looked cloudy all day. Distance 7 miles. Wednesday, December 5th. It rained during the night, and this morning was still raining when I got up, and made considerable trouble in lighting my fire. It soon stopped, however, &

221

Over/and to California our oxen being handy we made a pretty fair start. After going some 3 miles, we mounted to the tableland and found a better road and some sprinkling of dry grass. We nooned about 11 o'clock, when we found this grass pretty plenty. In the afternoon it commenced raining & continued all the afternoon moderately, with occasionally a hard shower. We reached the river at a point where it runs close to the hills and where the road touches for the purpose of watering and then ascends to hills. In coming down to the river, we followed the bed of a dry branch & passed parts of waggons along the way. The bottom was muddy and at first we intended to camp there, but afterwards concluded to get on the hills, where we found some dry mezquite grass while we were camping and for some time before. It rained extremely hard, and the wind blowing a gale, which we felt more from our elevated position. We pitched our tent so that an acacia and a cereus broke the wind off, having the back to the wind. We then built a large fire which was hard to start, but was a rouser when going at the front of our tent, and although it continued to rain hard, we made out to make ourselves comfortable. And being determined to have a good supper if it did rain, I therefor baked pancakes, for which heroic act Mr. Bratten said he would give me his young sister. After supper we made our beds down & soon turned in for the night. A notice left in a tree showed that Shipman had passed on the 4th. Distance 11 miles. Thursday, December 6th. It rained hard during the night, but from our secure position we heeded it not. A laughable occurrence happened this morning. Mr. Chapman volunteered to get up & cook some beans for breakfast. It was dark (about 4 o'clock) and he got hold of one of the bags of shell corn instead of the beans, and did not discover the mistake till he had boiled them for an hour. We, however, had the beans in time for an early breakfast. Last night was severe on our horses & cattle and we 222

on the Southwestern Trail found some of them laying close to our tent this morning, & the rest where there was not a spear of grass. They fed some after they were unhobbled & turned loose. The Pine Bluff boys stay here today. We had a heavy fog this morning and it required some tact to steer strait for camp when out of sight of it. My horse was attacked with a severe bellyache & was detained some three hours after the waggons in consequence, but as Mr. Young lost his horse, I had company on the road. The 1st part of the road was good, but on descending to the river it became heavier, and on approaching it, quite muddy & extremely hard pulling. We passed, about 4 miles from camp to the right, "an isolated mountain," in words of Dr. Cook, "wrapped in the grandeur of its own solitude."8 We stopped a few minutes (being ahead of No. 1 some little distance) to noon, or in other words, to supply the wants of the inner man. While thus engaged one of No. l's oxen fell in the yoke, but it is little wonder, not having scarcely anything to eat last night and pulling the loads through the worst roads than can be imagined. Even our team, acknowledged to be the best on the road, show the mark of want of proper nourishment, but we are in hopes we will get through, and daily live in hope. We gave them a few ears of corn and hitched up to find, if possible, some grass. We rounded the corner of a mountain of crumbling slaty sandstone, dipping NW. Its surface was barren and irregular and its profile uneven, sometimes running into pinnacles. At sundown we camped without a spear of grass for our hungry & weary animals. We gave the oxen a little corn & let our horses loose to forage for themselves. No. 1, I expect, camped where their ox gave out. And we again camped alone. Distance 12 miles. Friday, December 7th. "The Pioneer Mess" started early this morning to find, if possible, grass. We were not long on the road when we met a couple of men (one of these men is named 8

Signal Butte.

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Overland to California Hatcher, & one of the most celebrated mountaineers of the western country'—he was employed by government to pilot Colonel Colyer's8 party from Ft. Leavenworth & got some $2000 for i t he is now returning with a government express to Santa Fe—he is connected, I believe, with Kit Carson, &c.) & soon a train of pack mules. They had come from St. Diego and were on their way to Santa Fe. They said that the commissioners had returned to St. Diego and postponed further progress till February. He told us (their being but one American, the others being all Mexicans but a Dutchman) that the gold was plenty, & that they were hanging people in California by the twenties at a time and sending shiploads in irons to the United States. Hays' train but ten miles ahead. He gave us some information respecting the grass, &c., & also informed us that the roads were very bad. We camped some mile off the road where we found pretty fair grass but no water. A notice on the road showed Shipman V/2 days ahead. Mr. Lawson went down to the river & found it about 2 miles. After dinner he brought his horse & packed some in an India rubber bag. We had supper of stewed quails, which was good. We are in a bad way for cooking, No. 1 having borrowed our frying pan, & as it is our main cooking utensil we are in a fix. No. 1 did not come up this evening & we camped alone. Distance 6 miles. Saturday, December 8th. We decided to lay by today & let our animals recruit as we are in pretty fair grass. We left a no' John L. Hatcher was a well-known trapper and mountain man, a friend and companion of the famous "Kit" Carson. From 1845 down through the 1850's Hatcher was intermittently in the service of the government as a guide and interpreter. See Lewis H. Garrard (Ralph P. Bieber, ed.), Wah-to-yah and the Taos Trail (Glendale, California, 1938), p. 219, note, and passim. 8 Colonel James Collier, newly appointed U. S. Revenue Collector for California by President Taylor. Collier was being escorted from Santa Fe by a party of 30 soldiers commanded by Captain Thome and guided by Hatcher. See H. H. Bancroft, History of California (San Francisco, 1890), vol. VII, pp. 140-141.

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on the Southwestern Trail tice so that No. 1 may find us. It was extremely cold last night & a heavy white frost covered everything exposed this morning. Mr. Bratten drove the oxen to the road to water, & Messrs. Lawson, Adams & myself went to the river to let our horses drink. The former, who is water carrier general, brought his India rubber bags for the conveyence of water home. We found it a rough pass, being through the tall weeds that grow so luxuriantly through this country. No. 1 has not passed on the road, but we heard firing above, which we supposed to be them. Towards evening it grew cool & gave promise of another cold night. I was up baking bread till late. Sunday, December 9th. It blew up a norther last night and was colder than the night previous. We made a roaring fire this morning, & thus kept warm. We made a fair start. I, however, volunteered to go back & get our frying pan. I met No. 1 on the road after riding 3 or 4 miles, and a cold ride it was. The norther still continuing, the pools were all frozen tight, & it was late in the day before the sun had power enough to melt the ice. I directed No. 1 to the place we left, where they decided on going there. They said they found good grass over the hills, and had some packed in their waggon. These boys, as also some of ours, think the pack-mule crowd were returning with their treasure when they passed them. They seemed in a great hurry & one of their mules, hanging back a little, although a good mule, was taken out & shot. They told them that there was plenty of gold, & afterwards that there were 1500 persons on the shore waiting for a vessel to go home in, without a cent of money. I overtook our mess while they were in some trouble. The main road having been overflowed, we went considerable distance out of our way. I remarked it was Sunday, as generally we meet with some mishap while travelling on this day. At little above this, the river comes close to the hills. There is also a road turn-

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Overland to California ing to the left, which goes over the tableland. We struck for this road & soon reached it, where it was all right again. One place, where the road runs on the bottom, we drove through 2 ft. of water for about 50 yds. Near here, in the bushes, was an old government blacksmith's waggon, the remnant, no doubt, of Colonel Cook's expedition. About 3 or 4 miles from where we started this morning, we passed a grave, a few feet from the road. The headstand was of Cottonwood, hewed flat on each side and rounded where it entered the ground, and bore the following inscription, "The body of W. S. Christian of Scott Co., Ky, died Aug. 9th 1849, aged 21 yrs. Capt. Day's Comp. Cal. Emmigrants." After we reached the hill road we travelled without difficulty, excepting that the floating sand made it heavy pulling. We soon reached a mountain near which the river runs, and to get around whose point we descended to the bottom again & found it nearly overflowed. At the foot of the mountain I noticed on some boulders, hieroglyphics. We camped about a mile further on where we found some grass over the hill to the left. It was cold throughout the whole day, and, with reference to this, we camped behind a clump of mezquite trees near another lot of dead ones. The latter we used for firewood and fuel. Being this cheap, it may easily be imagined that our fire is not of the small kind. Distance 9 miles. Monday, December 10th. As we started I left a notice for No. 1 relative to the grass. We passed, among other things this morning, a gold washer left by some emmigrants who were unable to haul it further. We also passed several notes, one of which said 35 miles to the Colorado, another 12 miles to grass and water, and the third, signed by J. R. Shipman, read thus, "Messrs Vice & Fulsom, there being nothing here & some grass 1% miles further on, we will go there & wait till you come up." At this place 226

on the Southwestern Trail we expected to noon, but on travelling more than this distance and not finding any sign of zacate" we took a bite without unyoking & started on. We were in the bottom all day and touched near the river at several points. We have seen some deer tracks but not a single hoof since we have been on the river. Ducks, geese, brant, & crane are tolerable plenty, but keep close to the other shore generally, & therefor out of reach. The poor quail is our only victim, but even he is extremely shy. Mr. Adams saw a bear last Saturday, on a cottonwood tree a short distance from camp, & panther & wildcat track may be found occasionally. Rabbits lately have become scarce, though occasionally you will see one running as if he would never stop. They are mostly of the black-tailed specie. The raven, hawk, & owl are also inhabitants of this country. We passed another grave today, without any inscription, & thus they are scattered along. We camped where we found dry grass amongst some weeds, but it was of little account. Our camp is about 1 mile off the river. Distance 11 miles. Tuesday, December 11th. We found all our cattle readily this morning, notwithstanding the high weeds, & pushed on in hopes of finding grass, but after travelling about 6 miles over a heavy road of sand, on the surface of part of which were loose stones about the size of paving stones, of which the oxen did not care to travel, we took a lunch, the team standing in the yoke. Part of the road, where it rims near the river, had been washed away since the last waggon passed over it, & I could hear it tumbling down as I rode along. We have been deviating considerably from our course the last day or two, on account of mountains putting in, around which the waters of Gila wind their way. Most of the ground we have passed over today was of most barren nature, its only growth the larrea,10 with now and then an acacia, & at long 8

Zacate, Spanish for grass or fodder. A rutaceous shrub, originally native to Peru and the Andes.

10

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Overland to California intervals a mezquite. We camped without a spear of grass for our hungry animals & nothing but some cottonwoods & willow for them to appease their hunger. Mr. Bratten obtained a prize, having found about a dozen storks of cane which he brought home for his mule. We had a fine supper this evening on fine lot of quails & a black-tailed rabbit. Distance 9 miles.

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Rio Colorado to New River and Camp Salvation

Wednesday, December 12th. Mr. Van Bibber's horse was missing this morning. I took a turn round looking for him, but he was not found when I left. We hurried on in hopes of getting our cattle, who are growing weak from want of nourishment. We found a little cane for our cattle this morning, about 4 miles from camp, and the boys nooned there. Mr. Lawson & myself being some distance ahead at another patch when the waggon came up, we decided to camp for fear of not getting as good. The road was heavy & hilly today and winded exceedingly to get around hills, putting in close to the river. We passed an unusual quantity of skeletons today. I counted four within half a mile, showing that here was "the winter of their discontent." A lagoona of water supply is close to camp. A waggon has been left here. The mountains putting in here from the directions show much similarity, being all of the most barren nature & about the same height. Mr. Van Bibber was unable to find his horse & left him. A couple of Indians visited our camp this afternoon. They proved to be the Jumas,1 whose country we are now in. They were armed with bows & arrows, & one of them led a poor horse who was wounded in several places with arrows. I suppose they were unable to catch him & therefor wounded him. He was left, no doubt, by the emmigrants. They offered to sell him for a red flannel shirt. We could get little or no information from them as 1

The Yuma Indians.

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Overland to California they did not even speak Mexicano. I gave them dinner & supper. They made motions that they were hungry; they were lightly clad but slept out all night. They kept the fire, however, blazing. They seemed anxious to learn words of our language and would pronounce most of them readily. They did not relish coffee, but ate everything else I offered them. They said their wigwams, as well as we could understand, was only a league off, & that there was plenty of grass on the other side of the river. I was up baking bread till long after the others had retired. Distance 7 miles. Thursday, December 13th. We found our Jumas friends still on hand this morning. They are not at all bashfull about mealtimes. We amused ourselves in shooting with their bows & arrows, and on asking them to shoot, they both hit the mark the 1st shot. Their bows are made of Cottonwood, & their arrows are cane with a piece of harder wood inserted & a piece of flint, cut sharp for the head, ingeniously fastened on. We got a late start, as our oxen were scattered among the willows. Our Jumas friends gave me to understand, as they turned back on the road, that we would see them again in the afternoon. My horse was troubled again with cholic. It was cold today. Two miles brought us out of the hills when the road opened on an extended plain, the 1st part of which the ground was cracked in blisters and washed away, excepting where the roots of the larrea which keeps together in mounds. This about the only growth to be seen. The latter part is covered with tall weeds and not a spear of grass to be seen. We camped a little after sundown, about 1 mile from the river, without grass. I had some difficulty in bringing my horse to camp, she not being any better. Our Jumas friends, true to their word, came to camp just as we were about retiring for the night. They were without their bows & determined to stay again. Wood was scarce & they had but a middling fire to sleep by. We chained our oxen to the waggon, and all the 230

on the Southwestern Trail horses were tied but mine, which I thought too sick to need it. Distance 10 miles. Friday, December 14th. My horse got up during the night & made tracks. The Indians showed me the direction she took. After breakfast I took one of them with me & we trailed her back some way, when he left me, & I followed on & found her lying near the road, about 3 miles from camp. She was unable to get up, & I took the rope off & left her. I reached the waggon, camped, about noon, only 3 or 4 miles from where they started. Here I also found Shipman's & Shraak's waggons. They arrived on Monday. There is no grass here. The fodder consists of mezquite beans altogether. Our camp is 4 or 5 miles from the crossing, but only about 1 to the nearest point of the Rio Gila. This is the Upper Crossing.' It appears that last spring & summer the emmigrants crossed below, where the boat was in the hands of the Captain of the Jumas Indians, & that last spring they drownded a party, one of whom was a Captain Thorne of Missouri, & took their mules & property away.8 Since thè commissioners have come, a new boat has been built & on this we will cross. The Americans have fallen back to "New River"4 (no doubt the one that Major Emory was in search of), where they say their is plenty of gama grass, & left the Mexicans in possession of the a The Upper Crossing of the Colorado, the most generally used by emigrants in 1849-50, was located about four or five miles below the junction of the Gila and Colorado rivers. 'Actually, Brevet Captain Herman Thorne, of St. Louis, escorting Colonel James Collier from Santa Fe to San Diego, was drowned accidentally while crossing the Colorado on October 15, 1849. Rather than playing a sinister part in the tragedy, the Yuma Indians had been of much value in aiding the soldiers. Fort Thorne, New Mexico, was named after the captain, who had been a hero of the Mexican War. 4 A dry arroyo, once the connecting arm between the Salton Sea and the Gulf of California, into which occasional overflows from the Colorado spilled, and which took whatever run-off occurred in unusually heavy rains in the area. On these instances, suoh as occurred in the summer of 1849, the New River channel was filled with water which stood in ponds and lagoons until it eventually evaporated or sank into the ground.

Overland to California ferry, which they are to hold for a month, when the Americans take their turn. Some of these Mexicans are said to be just from California with lots of gold, & that all foreigners are ordered off, & hence their return. The state of the health of California is said to be very bad, & a great number are obliged to quit on the account, but that the gold is still plenty. A party from Missouri came up a few hours after us, consisting of 9 under a Captain Young. They started the 20th of August from Ft. Independence. They took Cook's road through Guadaloupe Pass & then deviated to the left, going still further out of there, but it was in consequence of the scanty supply of grass the old road furnished. They left John Glanton & his scalping party, consisting of 27 Americans, 30 Mexicans, & 1 Apache who had proven traitor to his nation & joined them, at the next water hole this side of Ben. Moore, 25 miles from B. M. Colonel Hays understood that Glanton was about proceeding to this part of the country for the purpose of hunting these Indians when at El Paso, but begged him to wait till he (Colonel Hays) had passed, so that, if possible, he might treat with them, to which Glanton consented. They also report that Gomez has been killed and by Glanton himself. They fought single-handed & Glanton killed him, for which piece of butchery he received $2000." A party of pack-mule Californians are said to have been destroyed, & some suppose O'Brien's party to have joined these. They also report the latest news from gold mines was richer & richer, & that half of the emmigrants who attempted to cross the continent by the South Pass will have to remain in the mountains till next spring in consequence of grass. Also that tribes of Indians through whose country they passed have been committing dep5 The alleged slaying of Gómez by Glanton is unconfirmed, but that Mescalero Apache chief was still regarded as a menace in Chihuahua in 1853. The killing, in 1850, of Glanton and his companions by the Yumas in retaliation for their abuse, had been known there for some time.

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on the Southwestern Trail redations on nearly all the emmigrants. Shaak's, Vice's & Miller's waggons are at the ferry, the former's having gone this afternoon. Water here in pools not over good. We collected some beans to carry with us. It is not very pleasent work. Distance 3 miles. Colonel Hay's party are also at the ferry. Saturday, December 15th. Captain Young & Mr. Bratten went to the ferry this morning & returned with the information that we would, in all probability, be able to cross in the morning. I employed myself today between making bread & picking beans. The Mexican captain that we met at the Pimo villages returned this morning & came into camp. An incident occurred during the night in connection with this, about 9 or 10 o'clock. We were awakened by the stampeding of Mr. Bratten's mule & Mr. Adam's horse, both of which were tied close to the tent, the former tied to an ox yoke which made a tremendous racket. On jumping up we discovered a Mexican on horseback who we thought was trying to steal them. We enquired what he wanted & he answered he was looking for another Mexican. Mr. Bratten was on the stand whether to shoot or not, but the Mexican was uneasy & wanted to be off. The animals could not be found in the dark. It proved, however, that this Mexican had just returned from California & had a letter for the Mexican captain who camped but a short distance back of us, & this was the camp he was looking for when he came upon ours. Another Mexican brought my mare up this morning, & I was surprised, as I did not expect to see her again. No. 1 are 18 miles back, & another 6 miles back of that, the Pine Bluff waggon. Sunday, December 16th. We started this morning to cross, if possible, the great Rio Colorado. Young's waggon started first & we directly after. We left a notice to the rest of the boys. After travelling about 2% miles we struck the river. It was a level plain all the way when we struck the Gila. I noticed a buzzard, 233

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together with some ravens, on the carcass of a mule. This is the 1st buzzard we have seen in a long time. We followed the river for some time & then turned to the left when we soon came to the crossing. We met Captain Shipman, who was looking for oxen. He said that there was great difficulty in getting animals to swim across. The crossing is but about Vs mile from the junction of the Gila & Colorado, & is about 350 yds. wide. The current rims about 3 or 4 miles per hour & the banks are steep. The canoe was upset yesterday & 6 men in it, but they all managed to get out. On the side of the river the Mexican soldiers were camped, & one or two houses of weeds already built. The boat is rather small & roughly built, & no animals, so they said, allowed to cross in it, but before we left they were bringing some over that were unable to swim. All the waggons were over excepting Shaak's (one) & Young's. Only 3 oxen were got across the whole of yesterday. There were any number of Mexicans coming to this side, who, they said, were Californians. I saw one sample, a piece weighing 2V2 ounces, from California. This was good for sore eyes. These Mexicans were charged all $3 a piece for crossing, & our bill amounted to $16 dollars. We got Young's waggon across & then ours, making two loads of each by unloading safely, but then came "the tug of war" to get our oxen & horses across. Many horses & mules could not make it & would return time after time to the same shore. Lucky for us the opposite bank was better for getting out at than this side. We took our oxen up, & some of the P. B. Co's being ready, they drove them with them, and, after some little trouble in getting them started, they all (excepting one blind ox of the P. B. Co's) went across like ducks led by one of our oxen, the immortal "Charley," who deserved much credit & a few days' rest for his chivalrous conduct, as it is probable the attempt would have proved abortive had he not led the

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on the Southwestern Trail way so handsomely. The next thing was our horses, & them we drove in with Young's mules. They did not get a fair start, but all got across. My mare, notwithstanding my doubts, swam well & reached the shore first. Now all was lacking was to get our precious selves across, which we did without any difficulty. Some of the P. B. Cos oxen, that did not come till after ours had started, had not got across when we left, notwithstanding they had pounded them almost to death in trying. We had, indeed, luck, & many thanks were due to that Providence who watched over us. There were some Indians about, who were busy in swimming horses & mules across. They charged $2, & no doubt some would have been drowned were it not for their exertions. They were excellent swimmers & are well-built men. After we crossed we loaded our waggon, ate a little dinner, and started off, after paying $4.00 only for ferriage. It was late, however, when we got off here. We past 8 waggons, notwithstanding they were down to the river before us, and some of them even lost oxen or had not found them when we came away. After travelling 3 miles it was so dark we concluded to hang up. We camped with Young. Thus ended an exciting day, which ended happily & warranted a good night rest. Distance 7 miles. Monday, December 17th. Our camp is about % off from the river, & directly through is one of the worst thickets man ever tried to push through, but through this Mr. Lawson & myself went to get some cane for our horses, & well we earnt it. After we came back we heard the boys had found lots of mezquite beans, & off we started again to fill our bags. They were pretty plenty, but it is tedious work anyhow. Our oxen had strayed so that we could find only 4 of them, & also Young's mules, or rather some of them, were missing. This put us back considerably, & it was not till after 2 o'clock that we got off, Young % an hour ahead. No waggons yet come up. We soon came to the foot of 235

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some sand hills around whose base the road winds, making an elbow. We camped, having found some cane, & afraid we might get out of the reach of water, of which we had none. We stopped directly in the road, not an unusual place. Distance 4 miles. Tuesday, December 18th. It rained considerable during the night & this morning, but not sufficient to make the road very bad. Our oxen strayed again last night, & it is almost impossible to find them in this bottom. We got all, however, excepting one, by 9 o'clock, and this one detained us till near 1 o'clock. It rained at intervals during the fornoon, & the walking was heavy & very tiresome. The river at this point is about 400 yds. wide & r u n n i n g perhaps a little over 2 miles pr. hr. The banks are generally lined with willow, cane, & some cottonwood. I have seen considerable beaver signs. Any quantity of Mexicans passed our camp in the morning, coming from California, all pack mules. They all say that there is muncho oro. As well as we could understand, we will find little or no grass before we reach Rio Nuava. They have been from 2 to 3 mos. coming this far. Our road was through a wooded land, mostly willows, following the river a distance off. Five miles' hard travelling brought us to an open place on the bank of the river where we found a ranch, an old Indian & his wife & child the only occupants. I could find nothing about but pumpkins, & these were very fine, but they were modest enough to ask only a dollar for a moderate-sized one. On going a little further we came to another open space & found two boats, one large & small, indicating, no doubt, the ferry." A little further we came to another where the road turned, and here we saw a couple of waggons, one an old United States waggon. We now, I supposed, left the river for good, & turning to the right came across some Indian huts, some distance from the road. A little 6 This was the Lower Crossing at the point where the emigrant and military roads left the Colorado about fourteen miles below the Gila-Colorado junction, and near a Yuma Indian village.

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on the Southwestern Trail further on we came to a clump of Indian huts, about 6 or 8, newly made, & found the chief of the Jumas Indians, who showed us a place to camp but told us there was neither water nor grass. As we passed after sundown, the Indians were about eating their evening meal, which consists solely of pumpkin, which they had stewed, & dipped it up with theirfingers,of which they asked us to partake. As far as I can see they live wholly on pumpkin, which they eat roasted & stewed. Their clothing is generally an American shirt or coat, but the children, & even the men & women, sometimes have serapes made of bark, showing before the immigration they were but poorly clad. Now and then you will see a cotton blanket of Indian manufacture, but whether of their own or not I could not say. They use the bow & arrow chiefly, but some have guns & pistols. They have fine horses, rather larger than those of the Pimos & in good order, which is somewhat surprising, as their is not a spear of grass about their huts. The men are, if anything, stronger-built than the Pimos or even the Maricopas, & generally well formed. Some wear ornaments in their noses & like all Indians are extravagantly fond of red. Red shirts is the stereotype enquiry. Nearly all of them, as I remarked before, they seem anxious to learn the language of the Americans, & the smallest child will hail you as you pass with "how do do." I made a trade this evening, giving my American mare for a mule. The mule in poor order, but I thought would do more service, as American stock are not fit for country where there is no feed. It stopped raining while we were preparing & eating supper, but commenced after we chained the oxen tonight. We passed any amount of skeletons on our march today. Distance 8 miles. Wednesday, December 19th. Our oxen kept up a continual racket all night, and neither did they rest or let us. One yoke, 237

Overland to California getting unhitched, started off, but, finding nothing, the poor fellows returned & took their places just as if chained. We started in pretty fair season to try & get something for our starving cattle. The captain made his appearance this morning & showed his papers, saying to watch them close, & one thing or another, amongst the rest that they had killed some Americans & committed other depredations, & that it was not safe for one man to go far from camp. The captain's name is Sr. Diego. He says the upper Indians at the junction of the rivers are all thieves. In short, the paper, as did most those of the Pimos & Maricopas, recommend them as being excellent thieves, which we felt sensibly before the waggon rolled out, missing a tin cup and a hoe, & Mr. Bratten caught the captain with a string of beads under his blanket while trying to sell some. We passed more huts scattered on either side of the road on the 1st part of our march, but soon left them. Our road was through the bottom and running paralell with some sand hills, to the right the wood being mezquite, but the beans were scarce. We met a good many Mexicans returning from California. We reached the water about 3 o'clock, & found some Mexicans camped here.7 The water was in a well situated in a gulley. A leather hide was stretched over a frame of wood for the cattle to drink. In this valley there were lots of frames of animals, oxen, horses & mules. Mr. Bratten & myself, being ahead, filled the hide for our cattle just in time for some Mexican soldiers who came up with mules packed with mezquite beans. The Mexicans told us there were no beans about here, but after a bite 4 of the boys started ofF in search of them, determined to find beans, if there were any within 2 or 3 miles, I, in the meantime, preparing supper. A little before sundown all the boys returned, excepting 7 "First Wells," generally called "Cooke's Wells," and sometimes "Three Wells," about ten miles west of the Colorado River.

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on the Southwestern Trail Mr. Chapman, & unsuccessful in their efforts, but he soon followed & brought the welcome intelligence that he had found some—welcome, indeed, for our cattle were in a starving condition & through steel we could not help seeing that under such treatment they would soon give out. Plenty of mezquite trees about here, but the animals have not only eat the beans but the bark and leaves and branches of the trees. It is wonderful how quickly cattle will fall away, & some, if not all, of our oxen, the admiration of those who'd seen them but a short time since, now weak & but shadows of what they were. We hobbled them & let them go for the night. I was up till near midnight, cooking, in order to devote tomorrow to picking beans. Distance 9 miles. Thursday, December 20th. After an early breakfast we prepared for a day's work in the bean district. We brought the oxen & our horses & mules. We met Vice & his young man, & a Mr. Williams, who has travelled with Miller. Just after leaving camp, Vice sold his waggon & oxen (3 yoke) for a mule & $30, & was going through in this manner. They had no pack animal. He said that No. 1 had come to the crossing & that Shipman would be at camp at noon. He also told us that the Mexican officers had quite a notion of sending after us to get the balance of the $16 ($12) for ferriage. He had to pay something like $20 & worked in the boat nearly all the time, & that extra care was now taken to make persons pay before they entered the boat. All of them, Miller, Shraak, &c., had large bills to pay & none of them smart enough, as we, to get off in the faces of Mexican troops, generals, colonels, & all, by paying a fair, instead of an extortionate ferriage, which they charged because it happened to be in their power. We found the beans about 2 miles E.S.E. of our camp, & each picked 2 bags apiece, Mr. Bratten packing four & I four, on our mules, while the boys drove the oxen. Both oxen & mules got plenty, & the former all lay down satisfied before we returned. 239

Overland to California When we returned we found the Mexicans gone & we set to work for a start but did not get off till the sun about an hour high. After travelling a few miles, we neard the sand hills & soon ascend through a heavy hill to the tableland, leaving the extensive bottom lands of the Colorado, which is noble land for cultivation. Before we mounted, the latter half of our road was through heavy sand, & when on the tableland nothing could be seen excepting a vast ocean, as it were, of floating sand, with here and there a stunted tuft of larrea. The wheeling was very heavy & we concluded not to go as far as we had intended at the start, & camped, moon about an hour high, in what may well be termed THE DESERT. We passed a good many waggons, some entire. Wood mighty scarce. We put our beans for the oxen in little piles, every ox having his own pile, after they had eaten which they all lay down around our tent. We were all pretty tired, having had a hard day's walk, the sand adding to our labor considerable, we walking to give our poor animals a chance. Distance 8 miles. Friday, December 21st. Our cattle were all about our tent this morning, & after giving each his pile of beans & taking our breakfast, we started off. The road continued heavy. We met a few Mexicans returning. Some of them had bundles of grass for their mules tied behind on their saddles. The road was strewn with the carcases of animals, the remnants of waggons, &c., the woodwork being generally used for firewood, this article being scarce. I think we passed, since we left the river, the carcases of animals enough, & more than enough, to make 1 to a mile, besides any quantity of old bones & everything from waggons to feather beds, without excluding medicine chests and all. On not coming to water where we expected, we halted a few moments & took a bite & went on. We, being ahead of the waggon, came to a deep gulley just before sundown, where we found 3 or 4 wells dug, but

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on the Southwestern Trail to our sorrow they were dry,8 but the sign about showed plenty of encampments. I followed the gulley by a trail for nearly a mile but was unsuccessful. The whole gulley is full of carcases, &c. The waggon came up about an hour & half after us, but it was as much as oxen could do to bring it along. One of them, for the 1st time of any of them, lay down, but they brought her up notwithstanding the sand & heavy road. We gave our oxen, as usual, their beans, but they and the mules & horses were greatly in want of water. After we ate our supper we turned in for the [night] with the unpleasant remembrance that our animals were suffering. Distance 13 miles. Saturday, December 22nd. We were off about half an hour by sim, & after travelling 2 miles we struck, to our joy, a hard road, & to complete it we found a little water a mile or two further. I discovered it while walking along. This was our salvation, for we started with the expectation in the morning of having to leave our waggon & drive our cattle to water. Thus Providence again aided us when in the desert. Skeletons were strewed, as usual, along, & I noticed that after we came on the harder ground that the earth was mixed with shells, showing plainly that this place has been at some former period washed by the waters of the Pacific. The ground was also held in mounds about the roots of the larrea. As we came on a dwarf growth of gama growth grass, we turned the oxen out for a few moments while we took a bite. We reached the water about % hour before sundown, but instead of a fine little river we found a mud hole, & a boggy, at that. We found no one camped excepting the commissary of the United States Army. The Dragoons have returned to San Diego, 8 These were the wells at Alamo Mocho, named for the lone, twisted cottonwood tree nearby. The name is incorrectly given as "Alamo Mucho" by many travelers of the period, but cottonwoods were not plentiful at that place, some 27 miles from Cooke's Wells. Alamo Mocho was sometimes called "Second Wells," being the second water hole west from the Colorado on the emigrants' road.

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Overland to California the Commissioners never having been here. We camped close to water, the grass being some distance off." All were well worn out after another heavy march & welcomed the hour of rest. Distance 12 miles. Sunday, December 23rd. This Sabbath morning was delightful, but at meridian was too warm to be pleasant. Miller's two waggons came up last night, contrary to our expectation, & Shaak's two waggons this morning. One of Shaak's gave out, which detained them. He also had to sell one of his best yoke, not being able to get them over the river. The fine gama grass and running water turns out to be the grass dead and eat off & tramped up, the water in holes pregnant with the carcases of dead animals. The commissary here, named Boone, & a very pleasent fellow, has given us considerable information &, what is more, by the order of our government, a little provision to help American emmigrants. And it came just in time, as we had not 3 lbs. offlourleft. We got about 30 lbs. of pickled beef & 10 lbs. of flour, which will help considerable. Thus is the beautiful institution of our government displayed, that even here she stretches forth her arm to help her suffering children, & although their are many not half so well supplied as us, as we have beans, penóla, rice, &c., left, yet it is even a convenience to us & help us out till we get where we can procure what we want. The regular amount is 3 lbs. offlourand 3 of beef, but theirflourwas all gone but what we got. Mr. Boone informed us that we were 95 miles from Warner's ranchería, & that that gentleman was there selling provision to the emmigrants, but at high prices. He also said that he had been offered, by Mexicans returning from the mines, an ounce of gold 8 This camp site, on New River, was named Camp Salvation, because of its luxuriant grass, by Lieutenant Cave J. Couts, who had camped on the site while escorting Lieutenant Whipple to and from the Colorado-Gila junction in the fall of 1849.

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on the Southwestern Trail for 10 lbs. of flour. As far as lie heard, the gold was still found in large quantities, & that mines had been discovered back of Monterey, which will be considerable nearer for us.10 He was going to the mines on his return to St. Diego. We do not touch at that place, but go to Los Angeles, 210 miles from here.11 He also said that the American officer that had charge of the Colorado ferry before the Mexicans made $20,000 in a short time & that he did not charge as much as the present fare. The boats we saw at the lower ferry were built at the Pimo villages by an emmigrant & brought down to the ferry where he realized 2 or $3000 & went on his way. He says we will find little or no grass between here & San Felippe, 80 miles distant, but plenty of water, & that 17 miles of this distance is through the heaviest kind of sand, worse than what we have been over. Mr. Chapman has made arrangements to go on with Mr. Boone as far as Warner's, Mr. Chapman being acquanted with that gentleman & will there wait till we arrive. Mr. Boone leaves in the morning, also Mr. Van Bibber, a gentleman over 50 yrs. old and ill-fitted for such a campaign, has made up his mind to leave in the morning, going to St. Diego where he will take shipping. He also, having lost his horse, was unable to walk & has made arrangements to get a mule from Mr. Boone. He has left his interest in the hands of Mr. Adams. It cost Miller & Shaak about $30 apiece to get their waggons over the ferry. One of No. l's oxen broke his neck. Monday, December 24th. This Rio Neuve, as it is called, & on whose banks our tent is pitched, is said to have run a short time 10 Many of the emigrants who came over the Southwestern Route to California went to the mines which had been discovered along the lower San Joaquin River's eastern tributaries. For most of these men, Stockton was the center of attraction. u This reference to the party's destination as Los Angeles, rather than San Diego, indicates that they continued their trip to the mining areas overland, probably by way of the wagon road from Los Angeles to the San Joaquin Valley and on northward down the valley. This route was already well established.

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Overland to California ago, but now here & there you will find a pool of water, & but few of them fit to use on account of dead animals in them. The banks and bottom are soft & boggy, so much so it is neccessary to watch your stock carefully. Many a worn-out animal has been dragged over the desert but to end his existence here. A horse belonging to a man named Parker (one of Hay's old Rangers) was found bogged this morning & almost dead, notwithstanding he started off with him packed in the afternoon. Messrs. Van Bibber & Chapman left us this morning, the latter having found, after going about 2 miles, an old horse formerly belonging to Colonel Watson, but lost by a young man who had him packed, & who left here yesterday. This saved him some walking. The weather is extremely warm & seems to be out of place for December. CHRISTMAS 1 8 4 9

Tuesday, December 25th. Thus Christmas, perhaps the merriest day of all the year, has overtaken us and find us as we little expected when we started, with our journey yet uncompletedstill in the DESERT. Alas! the merry peal of laughter is not heard here. The joyous bands of children running to & fro, with their dimpled arms full of presents from affectionate parents under the hallucinating & venerable cagnomen of St. Nicholas, are not seen. The family Christmas dinner, bringing the members of families together once more to enjoy themselves at this favorite banquet, are not spread before us. No! our places must remain vacant. Nor do we hear the voices of the fairer sex in musical notes wishing us a Merry Christmas. We are not mingling with the crowd that wend their way to the house of prayer to commemorate the birth of our Saviour. No! we look around us & nothing meets the eye but a vast plain, with here & there a shrub or a minutive tree, or rugged & barren mountains, where everything emphatically tells us we are in a desert. Our team in but 244

on the Southwestern Trail poor condition & with the prospect of finding no grass for the next 60 miles, but we should not complain, as many have faired worse than even us, & we have the cheering hope that, by untiring industry & unwavering perseverance, we will finally succeed in our enterprise & return to the arms of our family & friends, enjoying richly the fruits of our labor. The latest intelligence from the crossing was brought by Messrs. Cook & Davis, who have both left their waggons & come, as the boys call, "afoot-back." No. 8 (Davis') mess abandoned their waggon about 30 miles the other side of the crossing, & No. 4 bought their remaining 3 oxen. No. 3 have, I believe, but two yoke, & No. 1 have crossed the river. Messrs. Monell & Tuska will be up perhaps today. Both have horses. Dr. Cook was worn out, but Davis seemed in good spirits & wanted to push on. I gave them dinner, for which they were thankful. Dr. left about half his bundle with us. They started after a couple of hours. Mr. Monell came to our camp in the afternoon and said they were encamped 2 or 3 miles from us, & that Mr. Tuska was with him. He did not bring any fresh news. Both he and Tuska have horses. He said he sold considerable flour at the crossing for 1 dollar per lb. He was uncertain of starting in the morning & if he did not, would see us again. I cannot say that is, at least to me, a Merry Christmas. Wednesday, December 26th. This is holiday week, even to us, but our pleasures are not numerous. We even have not books by which we might wile away the time. Mr. Monell came to camp this morning and said that he & Mr. Tuska had lost their horses & he was then on the hunt. Another arrival (not any of our party) from the river brought us later intelligence, & No. 1 will probably be up here tomorrow night. Thursday, December 27th. Warm weather continues, and it seems impossible to believe the stories we hear about the cold 245

Overland to California weather about San Felippe. Today was employed in gathering grass, or rather (it being dry as tinder) hay, for our animals on the next long siege. Messrs. Monell & Tuska got their horses today in this way. There were some Mexicans camped near them (two men & two women) who have hay for sale at $1 a bundle, about enough for one feed. The boys offered them, they say just to try them, $3, if they would bring them in. They consented, and were gone but a few moments when in they came with horses, no doubt having them hid, when the boys told them to go to hell. They also stole other articles from them. They then moved to our camp & employed the afternoon with us in gathering hay. A two-horse waggon arrived here today but no news from the river. Shraak's waggons left here this morning. Friday, December 28th. Messrs. Monell & Tuska left early this morning for St. Diego. About noon some of the Pine Bluff boys came up & said that most of the waggons (our boys), if not all, would be up before night. Was exceedingly glad, as I wished to see my brother very much, but was afraid they would not be up before we left. We were busy gathering more hay today. Towards sundown the waggons began to roll in, & soon we were all together, excepting No. 4 & unfortunate No. 8. No. 1 had to leave an ox on the sand plain, making two they have lost since they came to the Colorado, & the Pine Bluffs have left 4 or 5 since they joined teams. No. 3 brought their yoke up, & all have changed waggons but them. No. 4, notwithstanding the addition of No. 8's team, are obliged to give it up, & Colonel Watson, who came up this afternoon, made arrangements with Miller to bring their goods & chattels as far as Warner's, for which he is to get their team, tent, provision, &c., which will be good speculation. Thus No. 4, after having bought many more oxen than any other mess, are one of the first to have to abandon their waggon. I wonder if Yankee still thinks No. 6 is in the pig's tail. No. 1 & the Pine 246

on the Southwestern Trail Bluff waggon are suffering for want of provision, both counting on getting plenty here. It blew up a norther at about 10 o'clock this morning. The dust flying in all directions made it very uncomfortable.

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APPENDIX Robert Ecclesion's Family R O B E R T ECCLESTON, author of this diary, was the son of Edward and Mary Anne (Christie) Eccleston of New York. Little is known regarding this pair, but Edward, born March 1, 1796, was evidently of English extraction, whereas Mary Anne was born in Dublin, Ireland, on May 7, 1802. Edward migrated to the United States in 1823, but returned to Ireland in 1826 to claim his bride. Both lived to an advanced age. Edward died in 1873 and his wife in 1879. After their marriage, the young couple settled in New York, where Eccleston engaged in the insurance business, though there is a family recollection that he was for a time a linen importer. There were ten children: Sophia, the eldest, born June 6, 1827; Edward, July 17,1828; Robert, March 4,1830; Mary, September 26,1831; Richard, March 4,1833; George, 1834 (died in infancy). These six were born in New York City. The other four, Teresa, 1836; Hannah, 1838; Jennie, 1840; and Lucas, 1842, were born in Rochester, New York. There is no certain knowledge regarding the formal education of the Eccleston boys, but their parents believed that the daughters should receive an education superior to that of the sons. When the California fever attacked the Atlantic seaboard in 1849, Edward and Robert, then aged 21 and 19 respectively, succumbed and joined the Fremont Association, of New York, one of those companies organized to cross the country as a unit and perhaps to engage in mining as a common enterprise. From this point, young Robert Eccleston becomes the central figure of this book. His brother drops into the background more and more. It was Robert who kept the diary on the journey to California and in it narrated his own experiences and observa-

249

Appendix tions on the way. It was he who passed the diary on to his family, and it is his descendants, still living in California, of whom we have the most information. Of the later career of Edward Eccleston we know little except that hefinallysettled on a ranch in Bakersfield and later retired to Alameda. He was married twice, the second time in Alameda to Mary Frances Averall, in 1899, and he died in his eightieth year in 1909. He left no children. Robert Eccleston, writer of the diary, married Emily Josephine Young at Colusa, California, September 17, 1857. Her parents, James Young and Emily (Scofield) Young, came from Palmyra, Missouri, where Emily was born April 1, 1840. The Youngs crossed the plains to California by way of Dormer Pass in 1852, when Emily was 12 years of age. They settled at Forbestown, Butte County. In a diary entitled, "Life at Garden Ranch," Robert Eccleston tells about their early days there. Emily Josephine married Robert when she was 17 years old. Emily Josephine bore her husband seven children: Florence May, born at Cottage Home, Colusa County, September 4,1858, and Robert, Jr., born July 30, 1861, in New York City, both of whom died in childhood; James Young, born in Forbestown, May 14,1863; Edward, also born at Forbestown, in November, 1866; Edith May, born in Bergen Heights, New Jersey, February 8,1870, who died in childhood; Charles Hudson, born in Tucson, Arizona, August 19,1879; and Louis Richard, born in Tombstone, Arizona, December 4,1881. Of these children, James was First Vice President of the Oakland Bank of Savings for many years and well known in the community. He died December 3, 1940. Edward is a retired Presbyterian minister and lives in Oakland. Charles Hudson, who also lives in Oakland, is a Berkeley realtor and builder. Louis Richard is a realtor in Burbank and lives in Hollywood.

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INDEX

INDEX Adams, James Q., ix, 36, 54, 70, 99, 102, 105, 110, 116-117, 120, 133, 145-146, 150, 151, 155, 159, 162, 165-166, 169, 197-198, 213, 225, 227, 233, 243. Agua Ancho, 104 Alamo Mocho Wells, 240-241 Antelope Springs, 170 Apache Indians, vi, vii, 121, 130, 137138, 161, 163, 172, 175-176, 180182, 184, 209, 211, 216, 232 Apache Pass, vii, 184-185 Appelby, William O., 217 Army supply train, 60 Aroia (Arroyo) Limpia, 115 Beaman, Major, dies en route, 95 Beaver Dam Lake, 74r-75 Baird, William H., xi Bell, Captain, of French's mule train, 156 Benjamin R. Milam, ii, 3, 13-14 Ben Moore Mountain, vi, 174, 232 Bieber, Ralph P., viii Big Drunk Springs, 65, 73 Bird, Mr., 180 Black Mountains, 186 Bolton, Herbert E., xi Boone, Army Commissary, 242-243 Boorman (Bowman), Andrew W., 69, 82, 103-105, 119, 122, 131; wagon train, 77, 89, 115, 121,128 Boundary Commission, 213, 242 Bratton, W. S., 65, 69-71, 79, 83, 99, 102, 105, 110, 112, 115, 117, 121, 130-136, 143, 154-167, 184, 203, 207, 215, 222, 225, 228, 233, 238239 Brooks, J., ix, 31, 76, 83,106,108,146, 178, 184 Brower, Isaac, i, iii, 4, 10-11, 14-15, 21, 76, 80, 94, 136, 139, 194, 202, 214 Brown, Alfred E. and Sylvester, 3, 12, 17-18, 26, 34, 36-37, 48-49, 52-53, 55, 60, 62, 68, 75-76, 79, 83, 88,

97, 98, 103, 111, 114, 143, 149, 181 Butterfield Overland Mail Route, x Camp Salvation, 242 Capperton (Caperton) Major John, 103, 185 Carson, Kit, 224 Casterville (Castroville), 23-24, 27-28 Chapman, A. R., 54, 78, 99, 112-113, 144, 150-151, 167, 175, 207, 213, 222, 239, 243-244 Chevaille (Chivaillez), Major Mike, 137 Cholera, at San Antonio, 21-22, 24 Christian, W. S., grave of, 226 Cibolo River, 22 Clyde, Mr., 150 Coco Maricopas, 211 Collier, Colonel James, 224, 231 Colorado River, 213, 226, 231, 233236, 240 Colyer, "Freddy," 7, 8, 10, 16-17 Colyer, Dr. & Mrs. Robert H., 3, 4, 7 15, passim Comanche Creek, 100; Springs, 100, 104 Commissary, at New River, 241-242 Conrey, Allen, ix, 8-9, 25, 51-52, 5556, 86, 110-112, 143, 168, 184, 186, 196, 204 Cook, Dr., 73, 76-77, 81,102,143,223, 245 Cooke, Colonel Philip St. George, v, 174, 193, 210 Cooke's Canyon, 170-171; Cooke's Peak Range, 171; Springs, 170; Wells, 238, 241; Wagon Road, iv-v, vii, 139, 193, 196, 232 Coombs, 181 Coon carts, 125 Coons' Ranoh, 150-152 Copper Mines, Santa Rita, 172-173, 175 Cornell, Andrew, 18 Correlitas Road, 149-150 Couts, Cave Johnson, 242 Coy, Owen C., viii

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Index Crary (Creary), Mr., 31, 34, 39-40, 4244,75-76,98-99,114,144,150 Croton Springs, vii, 189,191 Davis, Mr., 37-38, 76, 245 Davis, Elijah, death of, 216-217 Day's Emigrants, 226 Devils Pass (Wild Rose Pass), 113 Devils River, 54, 62, 66-67, 74 Diego, Yuma Captain, 238 Doña Ana (Donyanno), iv, 155, 160161, 182 Doniphan (Donniphen), Colonel A. W., 138, 155 Douglas, Mr., 144, 197 Eastland, Major Thomas B., 134-135 Eccleston, Edward, i, ix, 16, 18, 25-26, 250 Eccleston, Robert, i, v, viii-xii, 3-250, passim; family and descendants of, 249-250 Edwards, Mr., 56, 70, 75, 79, 81, 110, 121,142 Elias, José María, vi, 176 El Paso del Norte, ü-iv, 121,130,140141,151-152 Emory, W. H., 212, 216, 231 Escondido Creek, 94; Springs, 96 Evans, Mr., 39-45,142, 146, 150, 152, 183 Fireplace Rock, 179 First Wells, 238 Folsom, Mr., kills bear, 192, 226 Forts, Bowie, vii; Independence, 163, 232; Inge, 46; Leavenworth, 209, 224; Thome, iv, 167, 231 Foster's Hole, 168-169 Fredericksburg Road, 92 Fremont Association, of New York, i-iv, 3-5, 8-10, 15, 21-22; meetings of, 37-38, 53-54, 58-59, 76-78, 110111, 196, 249 French's Train, Captain S. G., 77, 79, 80, 82, 103-104, 106, 111-112, 115, 121,128 Frio River, 45-46

Gila Reservation, 207 Gila River, gold reported on, 121, 202 Glantom (Glanton), 138,183, 232 Gold, in California, reports of, 224225, 232, 234, 236, 243 Gomez, Apache chief, 138, 232 Gordon, John, interpreter, x, 163, 175183, passim, 190, 203 Guadaloupe Pass, 232 Hall, Dr. A., 19 Hailing, Mr., 185 Harding, George L., xii Harrington, William T., 31-32, 37-39, 42, 54, 78, 110, 112-113, 135, 147, 169, 181 Hatcher, John L., x, 224 Hayes, Benjamin I., viii Hays, John Coffee, i-ii, v-vi, x, 25-26, 28, 65, 69, 88, 90, 92,101, 103,113, 131, 135, 137-139, 144, 147, 150, 161-163, 165, 172, 175-176, 181, 183, 185, 191, 200, 203, 221, 224, 232-233, 244 Henry, Major W. S., 95-96 Hickey, George W., execution of, 217 Higbee, Thomas, 18-19 Holden, Thomas, 18, 22 Hondo Creek, 30, 41 Howard, Richard A., 110 Indians, encampment of, 207; depredations by, 129-130, 137; games of, 210-211; hieroglyphics, 116, 218, 226; thievery of, 211-213, 238; dress of women, 210-212 Janos Road, iv, 175 Johnson, T. B., 4, 21 Johnson (Johnston), Colonel Joseph E., 118, 147 Jones, Edmund, ix, 9, 24, 30-31, 49, 50-51, 79-80, 86-87, 89, 92, 94, 99, 102-104, 109-110, 113-115, 118, 129,133,141,147,149 Jumas, see Yumas Keamy, General Philip, 210 La Grange Company, 164

253

Index Lakes of Sand, 178,188-189 La Isla, near El Paso, 133,143 La Tinaja, 168 Larrea, 227 Las Cruces, 160 Las Moras Creek, 57 Lavaca, Port, iii, 20-21 Lawson, W. H., 106-107, 119, 135136, 145-146, 151, 153, 158-159, 161-162, 167, 205, 224-225, 229, 235 Leavy, Augustus F., ix, 9, 37, 54-55, 106, 168, 184 Lee, Mark, 217 Leon Creek, 25-26; Springs, 104 Leona Camp, 22, 24, 28, 35, 46; River, 46 Le Petite Apache, 180,185 Leroux, Antoine, v Limpia Creek, 115 Lincoln, Dr., 180 Lingram (Lingren), Andrew, v, ix, 3844, 78-79, 92,129,168 Live Oak Springs, 88 Lorance (Lawrence), Jack, 216 Lower Crossing, of Colorado River, 236 Lower Road, to El Paso, i-ii, 22 Lyon, Joseph, ix, 38, 78 McColister, Mr., 79 Maricopa Indians, 211-213, 219 Marshall, Alexander, ix Mason, Lieutenant Thomas J., 103,121 Matagorda Company, 118, 157, 185 Medina River, 28 Meeder, B. H„ 4 - 5 , 1 5 Mescal Wash, vii Mexicans, carts of, 125, 128-130, 153; soldiers, 175-176; 234, 238; at Colorado ferry, 231-232, 234, 239; from California gold mines, 224, 232-242, passim Miller, Mr., 195, 197, 200, 220, 233, 239, 242-243, 246 Mimbres River, iv, 172

Missourians, pack-mule company of, 170, 182, 184, 187, 192, 195-196; emigrants, 232 Mitchell, C., 217 Monell (Morrell, J. W.), 55, 86, 196, 215, 245-246 Moore, Mr., 41-42, 152, 155 Mule Springs, 163, 169, 171, 181 Mulone, wagon maker, 3-4 Murchison, Captain John, 164 New River, viii-ix, 231, 236, 241-244 Nueces River, 49, 52 Nugent, John, vii Nugent's Pass, vii, 190-191 O'Brien, Lieutenant W., 31, 38, 52, 54, 59-60, 69, 75-76, 78, 83, 121, 137, 143,149,151,160,163,181, 232 Ogden, army sutler, 74, 82 Ohengold, Mr., 30 Ojo de Inez, 177 Ojo de la Vaca, iv, 173 Old Tar River, sea chantey, 5-6 O'Reilly, Dr. J., 11,19-20 Overland Protective Association, 3,11 Painted Caves, Texas, 64 Painted Rock Mountains, 218 Pantano Wash, vii P4pago Indians, 199 ff. Parker, Mr., 244 Paso del Dado, 184 Patrick, John W., 217 Pecos River, 89, 93 Peloncillo Range, 179 Perine, Alonzo A., 23-24 Phillips, Mr. & Mrs., x, 61, 73, 77,155, 185 Piedra Pinta Creek, 57 Pima Indians, viii, 206-212, passim, 215, 219, 238, 243; chiefs, 210 Pine Bluff Company, v, 150-247, passim Power, William G., 26, 70 Powers, Hiram, 211 Presidio del Norte, 90-91, 102-103, 105

254

Index Prices and barter values, 129, 133-137, 140, 146-149, 151-152, 161, 204, 209-210, 213, 229, 234-236, 239, 242-243, 245-246 Puerto del Dado (Apache Pass), vii, 184 Pyramid Playas, 178 Que He (Quihi), 28 Quince (Mimbres) River, 172 Richardson, Captain of Missourians, 192 Ridgeway, 80, 88, 95, 162; cow party of, 78, 81-86 Rio Grande, iv, 57, 114, 120-121, 130, 151 Rio Neuve (Nueve), see New River Rio San Domingo, 180 Rio Sauz, 180 Rogers, Mr., 197,199 Sabinal River, 32, 42-45 Salt Keys (Cay Sal), 16 San Antonio, ii, 22-27 San Diego Crossing (Rio Grande), 164, 168 San Elizario, Texas, 132 San Pedro (Devils) River, 80 San Pedro River, 191-193 San Pedro Springs, 22-26 San Sabieur (San Xavier) del Bac, 198199 San Simon Creek, vi, 180 Santa Barbara, 167-168 Santa Cruz Valley, 196 Scalp bounties, 138 Sea Willow River, 22 Seco Creek, 41 Second Wells, 241 Seely, Samuel F., ix, 101,178 Seymour, J. W., 70 Shipman, Captain J. R., v, 168, 200, 212, 220, 224, 226, 231, 234 Signal Butte, 223 Shaak, see Shraak Shergold, C., 36,73, 77 Shraak, Mr., 219, 231, 233-234, 239, 242-243, 246

Sileckson, Mr., 31, 51-52, 83, 111, 188 Skillman, Henry, 104-105 Sloane, Mr., 70 Smith's Company (Overland Protective Co.), 3, 11 Smith, James L., 164 Smith, Lieutenant William F., ii Socorro (Texas), 133 Soldier's Farewell Peak, iv-v, 174 Stanmore, Mr., 96 Stein, Major, 182; Stein's Pass, 179 Stith, Judge, 144,151 Stone, Lyman H., surgeon, 103 Stjo-e-teck-e-mus, Pima chief, 210 Stuart (Steward, D. B.), 22, 70 Styx (Devils) River, 54, 62 Sully (Seely?), S. F., 79 Sulphur Springs Valley, vii, 188-191 Teamsters, killed by Indians, 25, 29, 32-33, 35, 41, 47 Ten Broeck, P. G. S., surgeon, 103 Terry, David S., 163, 175, 200-201, 203 Thomas, Dr., 176-177, 180, 184 Thompson, Captain Isaac, ix, 4-5, 9, 24, 37-38, 47, 52, 60, 65, 69, 71, 78, 83, 109-111, 118, 121, 130, 134135, 143, 145, 147, 149, 168, 184, 186, 215 Thompson, express rider, 58, 67 Thompson, storekeeper, 155 Thome, Captain Herman, 144,224,231 Three Wells, 238 Tobey, S. W., 8, 18-19, 22 Topographical Engineers, 22, 66, 69, 110, 113, 117-118, 120-124, 127128, 131 Torrey, see Terry Trade, with Indians, 207-213, 236-237 Tres Alamos Wash, vii, 191 Tucson Cutoff, i, iv-viii, 174, 176-177 Tueson (Tucson), viii, 176-202, passim, 213 Turkey Creek, 53 Tuska (Taske, G.), 25, 245-246

Index Upper Crossing, Colorado River, 231, 234-235 Upper Road, San Antonio-El Paso, ii, 22 Van Bibber, 29, 38,10&-107,119,130, 135, 154, 159, 163, 167, 207, 229, 243-244 Vandenburg, 29, 42-43 Van Home, Jefferson, ii-iii, 66,69,118, 122, 131,153 Vanderlyn, John, 211 Vice, Mr., 183,192,195,197, 200, 213, 226, 233, 239 Victoria, iii, 21 Waremburg (Vandenburg), 29 Warner's Ranch, ix, 242-243, 246 Watson, Colonel Thomas L., 4, 37-38, 52, 54-56, 76-77, 86, 92, 196, 202, 214, 246 Weird, Dr., 220 Welcome Creek (San Simon River), vi, 180, 184 Weld, G. C., 4, 11-13, 15, 17, 21, 26, 37, 70

Whetstone Mountains, 196 Whipple, Lieutenant Amiel W., 213, 242 Whistler, Joseph N. G., 121 White's Ranch, 153,155-156,158 Whiting, William H. C., ii Wild Rose Pass, 113 Willcox Playa, vii, 188-189 Williams, Mr., 239 Williamson, Mr., 156 Wilson, D. B„ 22, 70, 214 Wood, Mr., 37-40,42,70, 81,129,142, 144,147 Worth, William J., i-ii Wright, C., botanist, 80-81 "Yankee," x, 80, 88, 104,113,162, 246 Young, T. W. T., ix, 4, 21, 37, 48, 102, 110, 118, 148, 166, 184, 204, 223, 233-235 Young, Captain, from Missouri, 232233 Yuma Indians, 229-238, passim Zacate, 227

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copies printed for the Friends of the Bancroft Library by The Westgate Press June 1950