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English Pages 141 [74] Year 2013

•
MOROCCAN
cooking Our Dadas' Recipes
LA MAISON ARABE since 1946
THE BEGINNING 7
APPETIZERS & SOUPS •
12
MAIN ENTREES •
34
DESSERTS & PASTRIES • 70
BEVERAGES • 86
INVITATION TO A DREAM 100
LA MAISON ARABE 110
LA MAISON ARABE: A SCENT MEMORY 126
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 136
LA MAISON ARABE I S
The Beginning by Fabrizio Ruspoli "Bienvenue en Afrique" ("Welcome to Africa"), were the fir st words spoken by our grandmother, Marthe de Chambrun Ruspo li, as we di sem barked from the Super Constellation aircraft that linked Paris and Tangier in July, 1958. My brother and I had flown over the Strait of Gibraltar and the magnificent beach which see med to stretch to infinity beyond the Caves of Hercules . Bathed in a golden sunset, we were standing on Moroccan soil for the fir st time . The smal l Rue Ramon y Cajal, (since renamed rue Imam lbn Hanbal), was located in the hilltop Marshan neighborhood; it is here that our grandmother had lived in the Vil la Iris since 1947, and where my earliest memories of Morocco, whic h I still treasure in my sou l, were formed. That evening, my brother and I savored our first Moroccan meal, lovingly prepared by Dada Saoudia who had always been a part of my grandmother's household. She presented us a seemingly endless variety of appetizers and salads, and a couscous, which has remained a reference point for me to this day. So many new and exotic Flavors and mysterious spices. The fo llowing morning, squeezed into her beige Morris Bullnose, our grandmother behind the wheel, we were off to discover the Grand Sacco, the covered market of Tangier. I was immediately overwhelmed by new colors and scents in this magical epicenter of the city, and my eyes widened when I spotted pyramids of vegetab les, built by women vendors from the Rif Mountains, who wore hand-woven "Meindl" shoes with red and white stripes, and large pointed straw hats decorated with multicolored pompons . Simi lar hats were worn (and are still worn today) by the water se llers, who crisscrossed the Sacco, constantly ringing bells to alert the thirsty, and then pouring the precious liquid from an immense goatskin water bag into copper cups. Such a fascinating
LA MAISON ARABE I 7
parade before us! A deafening and understandable racket was coming from a cage full of chickens, sandwiched
Suzy and Helene ran a tight ship. As a result, their kitchen quickly became known for its refined and unparalleled
between a spice stall and a butcher. Close by, on a large cloth spread on the ground, one could see heaps of
Moroccan cuisine. Before long the restaurant had received praise from the international press, including several
parsley and kusbara, the fresh coriander that enriches so many Moroccan dishes, mint from local gardens, and
laudatory articles by Craig Claiborne of The New York Times, and by Gault & Millau, which described La Maison
wild mint, known for its heavy aroma, from the nearby mountains. A beam of sunlight slipped through the cane
Arabe as "one of the best restaurants in the world".
roofing of the market, and, much like a movie projector, illuminated the jerky, staccato movements of a stray cat eating a discarded chicken foot. These memories remain with me to this day, and come alive every time I walk through the Mellah marketplace of Marrakech; not much has changed over the years.
After Helene Sebillo n-Larochette's death in 1972, the restaurant remained in her daughter's hands. Suzy closed La Maison Arabe when she retired in the early 1980's. Until her death in 2002, she lived in one of the riads that has since been absorbed by the hotel.
During a stay in Marrakech in 1994, I learned that the founder and owner of La Maison Arabe, Suzy SebillonLarochette, was looking to se ll her restaurant in the Bab Doukkala neighborhood of the Red City . She had arrived, with her mother, in the 1930's. In her youth, she suffered from a lung ai lment, and the dry climate of Marrakech had been recommended by her doctors. In the late 1930's, just before the war, mother and daughter had already distanced themselves from the family business in Paris, the famous "Sebillon" restaurants that specialized in roast leg of lamb (only two remain today). Incidentally, the Sebillon regu lars included Thami el
When I walked through the doors of La Maison Arabe in 1994 and met Mademoiselle Sebillon- Larochette for the first time, she was over 80 years old and lived alone with her cats. The intimate dining areas that had formerly received a multitude of famous people were now si lent. All was calm, motionless, and asleep. Then Suzy began tel ling me about dinners with Sir Winston Churchil l, Queen Ingrid of Denmark, Jacqueline Kennedy and so many other notables and celebrities who had frequented La Maison Arabe, and showing me everyone's preferred table and describing their Favorite dishes.
Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakech, who would come often to Paris around that time. Stranded in Marrakech by World War II, and finding themse lves in a precarious financial situation, Suzy and Helene Sebillon-Larochette faced an uncertain future in Morocco after the war. Fortunately, the Pasha came to
As she shared these wonderful memories with me, it seemed as though the wal ls were breathing. I was held spellbound by the place. I could almost hear the dinner conversation and laughter, and see and smell the various Moroccan dishes brought forth from the kitchen.
their rescue, allowing them to purchase a property in the medina, where they cou ld live and, at the same time, open the first restaurant catering to foreigners. The restaurant was to serve authentic Moroccan food; the Pasha sent one of the best cooks from his palace kitchens to educate and assist the two French women.
Two days later, I decided to buy La Maison Arabe and awaken this mythical site from its long slumber. A year went by as I sought the best traditional craftsmen to restore the property. I remember what seemed
La Maison Arabe opened its doors in 1946, and quickly became the "must go to" restaurant in town. One went
like innumerable deliveries of materials transported by carrozas, the small donkey-drawn wagons one still sees
by reservation only, and your meal had to be ordered a day in advance. You were expected to be punctual, so
everywhere in the medina. After two more years, and thanks to much patience and perseverance, La Maison
that the various Moroccan dishes could be served at exactly the right moment. Believing in order and discipline,
Arabe reopened its doors in January, 1998. Our two General Managers, Taoufik Ghaffouli and Nabila Dakir joined
8 I LA MAISON ARABE
LA MAISON ARABE I 9
me shortly before the opening and remain to this day
They are always taught by a Dada, a woman with an unparalleled knowledge of herbs and spices, personifying
my two pillars at La Maison Arabe: the hotel could never
the oral transmission from grandmother to mother to daughter, of the art of cooking in this ancient nation. My
have become what it is today without them.
hope is that participants in our cooking workshops wi ll feel the same rush of emotion that I felt as I child in the
La Maison Arabe had been the first restaurant to open
Grand Sacco ofTangier, discovering so many new aromas and Flavors.
in the medina of Marrakech; it was now its first riad-
Today, La Maison Arabe has grown to include two restaurants, additiona l rooms and suites, a swimming pool, an
hotel, with initially ten rooms and suites, each one
organic vegetable garden just outside the medina, and a private country annex for hotel guests and as a venue
unique due to the pecu liar layout of the building, and,
for larger special events.
more specifically, owing to the uniquely exquisite decor of each room. Immediately seduced by the hotel's
This book is dedicated to the memory of our beloved Dada Aziza. We will miss her warmth and beautiful smile that brightened so many cooking workshops. Many of her delicious recipes are included here.
charm, delighted by the renowned Moroccan hospitality, guests would return several times a year, adopting La Maison Arabe as an exotic second home. The numerous
Pril7CE! Fabrizio Ruspoli di Poggio Suasa, ow!7er ofLa Maisol7 Arabe, has bet'l7 /ivil7g il7 Morocco si!7ce 1992.
mysterious salons of the property, and the North African art de vivre fascinated them. The hotel's decor, art objects, and paintings provided an imaginative setting for an exciting rendez-vous with the past, a poetic ambiance for an authentic Moroccan experience. There was no restaurant when La Maison Arabe reopened, only a small kitchen where our Dada (traditional Moroccan chef) prepared her delicious tagines upon demand. I noticed that guests, as they would do in any home, would often open the kitchen door and ask our Dada if she'd share her secret recipes. This is how the idea of a cooking school was born. Since 2002, countless participants have learned the intricacies of Moroccan cuisine at our cooking workshops.
111 j 1
~I 1•,1 IN Al(i\ 111(
LA MAISON ARABE I 11
BRIWAT WITH CHEESE 15
BRIWAT WITH GROUND MEAT 17
ORANGE SALAD WITH BLACK OLIVES AND ARGAN OIL 19
CABBAGE AND DRIED FRUIT SALAD 21
GREEN PEPPER SALAD 23 EGGPLANT SALAD 25 ZUCCHINI SALAD 27
HARIRA 29 SAFFRON PUMPKIN SOUP 31 CARROT AND ORANGE SOUP 33
LA MAISON ARABE I 13
Briwat with Cheese YIELD: 50 BRIWAT
FILLING 1 lb I 500 grams goat cheese
PREP TIME: 45 MINUTES
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS 1.
To make the filling, place al l the "Filling Ingredients" in a large bowl, and use a fork to mash until you get a homogeneous mixture.
2.
Put the equivalent of a tablespoon of goat cheese mixture in the pastry and roll the briwat as described below. Note: in step (5) brush the tip with a little bit of water or egg yo lk to secure the briwat when closing it.
1 egg yolk 1 garlic clove (crushed)
COOKING TIME: 15 MINUTES
Salt (to taste) Black pepper (to taste) Red chili pepper (optional - to taste)
WRAPPING Warka sheets (replace with phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers)
SERVING Serve the briwat immediately whi le they are sti ll hot. To bring out the flavor of these briwat, squeeze fresh lemon juice over them and serve over lettuce leaves. cigar s hape 1
T
1 egg yolk Oil for frying
-
triangular s hape 1
If you are using phyllo dough, make sure to brush it with melted butter before using it.
LA MAISON ARABE j 15
Briwat with Ground Meat YIELD: 50 BRIWAT FILLING
1 lb I 500 grams ground meat (beef or lamb) 1 tablespoon finely chopped ci lantro 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 large onion (finely chopped) 2 garlic cloves (crushed) 1 tablespoon olive oil Salt (to taste) Mixture of black pepper and white pepper (to taste) Red chili pepper (to taste) 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon ground cumin Y2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
I
PREP TIME : 45 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 15 MINUTES I
LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS 1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6. 7.
In a frying pan, cook the onion with olive oil on medium heat for 10 minutes until the onion becomes translucent. Stir constantly. Mix the ground meat with the parsley, cilantro, and spices. Add the meat to the frying pan and mix well with the chopped onion . Cook, covered, on medium heat for about 15-20 minutes. The meat is done when it loses its pink color. Stir from time to time . Place the cooked meat in a bowl and let it completely cool down before using it as a filling. Put the equivalent of a tablespoon of filling in the pastry and roll the briwat as described in the "Briwat with Cheese" recipe. Before serving, fry the briwat in very hot oil until they become golden brown. Pat the briwat with paper towels to remove excess oil.
SERVING Serve the briwat immediately while they are still hot.
WRAPPING
Warka sheets (replace with phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers) 1 egg yolk
You can freeze the uncooked briwat before frying them (step 3) in a plastic container or plastic freezer bag for 2 to 3 weeks. Thaw 15 minutes before frying. They will be as crispy as if you had made them that day.
LA MA ISON ARABE j 17
Orange Salad with Black Olives & Argan Oil YIELD: 1 SERVING
1 orange (preferably navel) 1 teaspoon finely chopped flat -leaf parsley 1 tablespoon argan oil (see p.132) 5 cured black olives (pitted and sliced) Salt (to taste) Black pepper (to taste)
I PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES I COOKING TIME: 15 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY DIRECTIONS 1.
Pee l, slice, and dice the orange. Place the orange cubes in a bowl.
2.
Drizzle the argan oil onto the orange cubes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the chopped parsley and mix well
SERVING Place the orange cubes in a small bowl or round plate and serve immediately with blac k olives.
For variety, you can replace the p arsley with chopped mint leaves.
LA MA ISON ARABE j 19
Cabbage and Dried Fruit Salad YIELD: 2 SERVINGS 0.5 lbs I 250 grams shredded cabbage
I PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES I COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY DIRECTIONS 1.
Finely slice the apple without peeling it. Toss the app le slices with the lemon juice so that they do not turn brown.
2.
In a bowl, mix the shredded cabbage, apple slices, dried raisins, and nuts.
3.
Add sugar and pinch of cinnamon to the salad. Mix well .
4.
Chi ll the salad in the refrigerator before serving.
1.7 ounces I 50 grams nuts (almonds and I or walnuts)
1.7 ounces I 50 grams dried raisins 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 small apple 1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar A pinch of cinnamon
Caster sugar is superfine sugar that dissolves faster than regular white sugar. If you do not have any caster sugar on hand, you just need to grind granulated sugar in a food processor for a few minutes.
LA MA ISON ARABE I 2 1
Green Pepper Salad YIELD: 1 SERVING 1 medium green pepper 1 medium ripe tomato
I PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES I COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES I LEVEL : EASY DIRECTIONS 1.
Grill the green pepper over a gas burner, charcoal, or gas grill. Rotate the pepper as the skin closest to the heat blackens and blisters. Remove when the pepper has blackened completely .
2.
Place the pepper immediately in a plastic or paper bag. Close the bag and allow the pepper to sweat for 10 minutes.
3.
Scrape off and discard the blackened skin of the pepper. It is easily removed.
4.
Cut the pepper lengthwise, remove the seeds, and dice.
5.
Peel the tomato, remove the seeds, and dice.
6.
In a bowl, mix the pepper, tomato , onion, olive oil, vinegar, and spices.
1 tablespoon finally chopped onion Yz tablespoon olive oil Yz teaspoon white vinegar Salt (to taste) ~
teaspoon ground cumin (to taste)
OTHER A plastic or paper bag
SERVING Serve this sa lad on a small plate along with crusty bread.
For a more citrusy flavor, you can add thin preserved lemon slices and olives. Make sure to wash the preserved lemon with water before using to make it less salty. A lso, you can replace the chopped onion with chopped garlic cloves.
LA MAISON ARABE j 23
Eggplant Salad YIELD : 2 SERVINGS 1 medium eggplant 1 large tomato
PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 20 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS 1.
Completely or partially peel the eggplant and dice it into very small cubes.
2 garlic cloves (crushed)
2.
Peel, seed, and finely chop the tomato.
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
3.
Drizzle the olive oil in a large skillet. Add the eggplant, crushed garlic cloves, and sa lt. Cover the skillet, and cook the eggplant on low heat for 10 minutes.
2 tablespoons olive oil
4.
Using a spoon or potato masher, crush the eggplant.
1 tablespoon lemon juice or white vinegar
5.
Add the chopped tomato and spices to the eggplant. Mix well.
6.
Cook the eggplant and tomato, covered, on medium heat for 10 minutes. Continue crushing and blending the eggplant and tomato from time to time until they are completely cooked and have a smooth texture .
7.
A few minutes before the eggplants are ready, add the lemon juice or vinegar to the eggplant mixture and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes or until the liquid is reduced.
Yz teaspoon salt 1fi+
teaspoon red chili pepper (optional)
1 heaping teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin
SERVING Serve this salad cold or warm along with crusty bread.
If you do not have time, you can place the eggplant cubes in a plastic bag and microwave them for 5 minutes before cooking them in the skillet with the tomatoes. To add more flavor, grill or bake the eggplant cubes before cooking them with the tomato.
LA MAISON ARABE I 25
Zucchini Salad YIELD: 2 SERVINGS
I
PREP TIME : 10 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 25 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS 2 medium zucchini 2 garlic cloves 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon white vinegar 1 teaspoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley Water Y2 teaspoon salt V2 teaspoon ground cumin V2 teaspoon paprika
1. 2.
Cut off the top and bottom of the zucchini and then cut them in half lengthwise. Slice and dice the zucchini halves into small cubes.
3. 4.
Peel the garlic cloves. Keep them whole. Place both the zucchini and garlic cloves in a saucepan. Add enough water to cover the zucchini cubes. Add salt to the saucepan, cover, and cook on medium heat for 20 minutes. Once the zucchini is tender, drain all the water out. Separate the garlic cloves from the zucchini. On medium heat, drizzle the olive oil in a pan and add the cooked garlic, vinegar, paprika, and cumin. Let these ingredients warm for a few minutes. Crush the garlic with a spoon while mixing it with the spices. Add the zucchini cubes to the spice mixture and mix we ll. Place the zucchini sa lad in a plate and sprinkle the chopped parsley on top.
5. 6.
7. 8.
SERVING Serve this salad warm or cold with crusty bread.
For a more citrusy flavor, you can add thin preserved lemon slices. Make sure to wash the preserved lemon with water before using to make it less salty. For variation, replace the zucchini with carrots, potatoes or other seasonal vegetables.
LA MAISON ARABE I 27
Harira YIELD: 5 SERVINGS
SOUP BASE
V2 lb I 250 grams lamb meat (diced) 2 onions (finely chopped) V2 lb I 250 grams dried legumes 3.5 ounces I 100 grams dried chick peas (soaked in water overnight) 3.5 ounces I 100 grams celery (chopped) A small bouquet of fresh flat-leaf parsley, cilantro, and celery leaves 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon salt % teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon smen/clarified butter (seep. 132) Water
TOMATO SAUCE 3 medium sized tomatoes, peeled and pureed 2 tablespoons tomato paste 3 tablespoons olive oil V2 teaspoon black pepper V2 teaspoon ground ginger THICKENING SAUCE 1 cup all-purpose flour Water
PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES
COOKING TIME : 90 MINUTES
LEVEL : MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS 1.
Place all the "Soup Base Ingredients" (except the water) in a pressure cooker. Mix we ll. Cook on medium heat for 5 minutes. Note: If you do not have a pressure cooker, you can use a regular soup pot. The cooking time wi ll have to be adjusted accordingly.
2.
Add 8 Y2 cups I 2 liters of hot water. Close the pressure cooker and cook, over high heat, until pressure is achieved. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 30 minutes.
3.
Check that the beans and chick peas are cooked. They should be tender. If not, add more water and let them pressure cook for another 15 minutes or until done.
4.
In a large bowl, mix all the "Tomato Sauce Ingredients".
5.
Add the tomato sauce to the soup base. Stir well. Cover and cook over high heat until pressure is achieved. Reduce the heat to medium and continue cooking for 10 minutes.
6.
Release the pressure and add the Italian vermicelli to the soup. Cover and cook on medium-low heat for 5 minutes or until the vermicelli is plump and soft.
7.
To create the thickening sauce, mix the cup of flour with enough water to get a smooth paste. Make sure that all the flour is dissolved.
8.
Finally, add the thickening sauce to the soup and stir constantly until completely mixed. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 minutes. The soup will start thickening. Taste and adjust seasoning. Note: if the soup becomes too thick you can thin it with water.
SERVING Serve the harira hot in soup bowls. You can add lemon juice to the soup for a tangy tas te. In Morocco, harira is served along with dates, figs, and Moroccan honey pastries.
OTHER % cup Italian vermicelli
For extra flavor, you can add a raw egg at Step 8. Stir well until the egg is cooked in the soup. LA MAISON ARABE I 29
Saffron Pumpkin Soup YIELD : 5 SERVINGS 4.5 lbs
I 2 kilograms pumpkin
(weighed with its skin)
I PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES I COOKING TIME: 30 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM DIRECTIONS 1.
1 lb I 500 grams leeks 1 lb
I 500 grams potatoes
Clean and prepare al l the vegetables: - Trim off the root end of the leeks, about Y4 inch I 0.6 cm of the white base. Remove any outer leaves and discard. Slice the leek and wash with co ld water to remove all dirt. - Peel and cube the potatoes (medium sized cubes).
7 tablespoons I 100 grams butter
- Using a spoon, scrape the Abers and seeds from the pumpkin. Cut the pumpkin into medium cubes and remove the skin.
A large pinch of saffron threads (see p.131)
Note: If it is too hard for you to remove the skin, you can tightly cover the pumpkin slices with plastic wrap and microwave them for 15 minutes. The fiesh will be much softer and you can just scoop it out with a spoon .
Salt (to taste) Water (enough to cover the vegetables in the pot) 2.
Put all ingredients in a medium heavy pot: pumpkin, leeks, potatoes, butter, and saffron. Pour water in the pot until all ingredients are covered.
3.
Cook, covered, on medium-high heat, for 30 minutes, until the vegetables become tender. Check on the leve l of water from time to time and add more water if necessary until the vegetables are cooked.
4.
Once the vegetables are done, transfer them to a blender. Puree until smooth. You can add water to adjust the consistency of the soup.
5.
Reheat the soup and adjust the seasoning.
SERVING Serve this soup cold or warm along with crusty bread .
You can replace pumpkin with butternut squash for a sweeter flavor. A lso, adding a !4 teaspoon of ground nutmeg will enhance the warm flavors of this soup. LA MAISON ARABE I 31
Carrot and Orange Soup YIELD : 5 SERVINGS 1 lb
I 500 grams carrots
I
PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 30 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS
2 medium sized onions (grated)
1.
Peel and slice the carrots and potatoes.
2 medium sized white potatoes
2.
In a medium heavy pot, melt the butter. Add the grated onions and cook on medium heat, covered, for 5 minutes.
Zest of Y2 orange 6 cups I 1.5 liters water 3 Y2 tablespoons
I 50
grams butter
3.
Add the carrots and potatoes to the pot. Mix well, cover, and cook for another 5 minutes.
4.
Add the water and orange zest. Cover the pot and cook on medium heat for 25 minutes, until the vegetab les become tender. Check on the level of water from time to time and add more water if necessary .
5.
Once the vegetables are done, transfer them to a blender. Puree until smooth. You can add water to adjust the consistency of the soup.
6.
Transfer back to the pot to reheat. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Salt (to taste) White pepper (to taste) Whole milk or heavy cream for serving
SERVING Serve this soup cold or warm along with crusty bread. Garnish with orange segments and a swirl of milk or cream.
You can replace the white potatoes with sweet potatoes or yams.
LA MAISON ARABE I 33
BASTILLA WITH CHICKEN & ALMONDS 38
SEAFOOD BASTILLA 41
BASTILLA WITH VEGETABLES 43
COUSCOUS TFAYA 46
COUSCOUS WITH SEVEN VEGETABLES 50 ROASTED LAMB SHOULDER 53
LAMB TAGINE WITH FIGS &WALNUTS 55 MEAT TAGINE WITH ORANGES & SAFFRON 57 LAMB TAGINE WITH GREEN PEAS & FENNEL 59 TAGINE MAKFOUL 61
CHICKEN TAGINE WITH PRESERVED LEMONS 63
CHICKEN TAGINE WITH APRICOTS & ARGAN OIL 65
TAGINE M'DARBEL 67
BERBER VEGETABLE TAGINE 69 LA MAISON ARABE I 35
Bastilla with Chicken and Almonds YIELD: 4 SERVINGS
CHICKEN FILLING 2 pieces of chicken (breast and leg)
I PREP TIME: 1 HOUR I COOKING TIME: 30 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE CHICKEN FILLING 1.
On medium heat, drizzle the vegetable oil in a medium cooking pot. Add the chopped onion, parsley, cilantro, clarified butter, and all the spices for the chicken fillin g. Mix well.
ALMOND FILLING 2.5 ounces I 75 grams blanched almonds
2.
Add the chicken to the cooking pot and toss it with the rest of the ingredients. Cover the pot and let the chicken cook for 5 minutes.
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Add Y2 cup of water to the pot, just enough for the chicken to cook. The goal is to get a thick sauce so add water as necessary until the chicken is cooked. Cover your pot and let the chicken cook, on medium heat, for 20 minutes or until done.
1 teaspoon smen I clarified butter
1 large onion (finely chopped) 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro 1 teaspoon smen I clarified butter
3.
(see p.132) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Water
Y2 teaspoon salt % teaspoon black pepper Y2 teaspoon ground cinnamon Y2 teaspoon ground ginger % teaspoon ground turmeric Y2 teaspoon white sugar A pinch of saffron threads Y2 teaspoon ras-el-hanout (optional, see p.131)
4.
11
1 teaspoon orange blossom water (see p.132) Oil for frying
When the chicken is cooked, remove it from the pot, place it in a bowl and let it cool down. Shred the chicken into small pieces and discard the bones.
DIRECTIONS FOR FOLDING THE BASTILLA
Note: Reserve the sauce in the pot as it is going to be used to cook the egg filling.
1.
Brush a baking pan or round oven-proof skillet with melted butter.
2.
Fold the warka sheets in half and put 4 layers in the middle of the baking pan. Place additional folded warka sheets around the baking pan so that 1/3 of their length is overhanging the edge of the pan.
3.
Sprin kle the warka sheets with some sugar and cinnamon powder.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE EGG FILLING 1.
Break 2 eggs into the pot in which the chicken cooked.
2.
On low heat, stir the eggs into the chicken sauce. Do not cover your pot whi le cooking the eggs, to allow the sauce to evaporate. The egg mixture should become dry after 10 -15 minutes. Stir from time to time.
3.
Remove the egg mixture from the pot, place in a separate bowl and let it coo l down.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE ALMOND FILLING EGG FILLING 2 large eggs
1 tablespoon white sugar
1.
Fry the almonds in hot oil for 5 minutes until they become golden brown.
2.
Remove the almonds and pat them with a paper towel to absorb excess oil.
3.
In a blender, pulse the almonds with the sugar, cinnamon, orange blossom water, and clarified butter until the almonds are crushed into small chunks. The almond filling should not be smooth; its texture should be grainy.
Note: If you are using phyllo pastry, make sure to brush every layer with melted butter to avoid dryness and breakage. 4.
Spread the chicken mixture evenly onto the pastry in the center of the baking pan. Spread the egg filling over the chicken filling. Finally, spread the al mond filling over the egg filling.
5.
Carefully fold over the pastry on all sides and brush the top with egg yolk.
6.
Add one layer of pastry on top and tuck it under the bottom of the pie. Brush surface with melted butter and egg yolk.
7.
Bake the bastilla at 350° F I 180 °C for 20-30 minutes or until golden brown and crisp.
SERVING
DOUGH Warka sheets (replace with phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers) Melted butter 1 egg yolk
Some bastilla recipes call for separating the different filling layers with pastry. For a crispier bastilla, avoid adding the internal pastry layers as they do not cook as thoroughly as the external layers.
Serve hot. Dust the top of the bastilla with powdered sugar and ground cinnamon before serving.
LA MAISON ARABE I 39
Seafood Bastilla YIELD : 4 SERVINGS 2 ounces I 60 grams shrimp (peeled)
I
PREP TIME: 45 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 15 MINUTES I LEVEL : MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS 1.
In a frying pan, saute the squid with a drizzle of olive oil. Add the parsley, ci lantro, garlic, all the spices, and 2 tablespoon s of water. Cook for 8 minutes over medium heat.
2.
Add the fish and cook for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook for another 2 minutes. Mix we ll until there is no more sauce. Add the lemon juice . Taste and adjust the spices if necessary. Remove from the heat.
3.
Cook the vermice lli in boiling water for a few minutes. Once it becomes soft, drain the vermicelli from the water and cut it with scissors.
4.
Mix the white fish, squid, shrimp , and vermicelli together. Let the filling cool down before using it.
The juice of 1 lemon
5.
Fold the bastilla as described in the preceeding "Basti lla with Chicken and Almonds" recipe .
3 tablespoons olive oil
6.
Bake the bastilla at 350 °F I 180°( for 20-30 minutes or until golden brown and crisp.
2 ounces I 60 grams squid (sliced) 2 ounces I 60 grams white fish (cut in pieces)
1.7 ounces I 50 grams Chinese vermicelli 1 garlic clove (crushed) 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon salt
% teaspoon black pepper
SERVING
1 teaspoon ground cumin
For a citrusy fiavor, you can add capers or small pieces of preserved lemons to the filling, or you can squeeze fresh lemon juice on top of the bastilla when serving it.
1 teaspoon paprika
OTHER Warka sheets (phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers) Melted butter 1 egg yolk
Feel free to adjust the filling ingredients to your taste. You can use only shrimp and omit the white fish and squid, or use any fish combination of your choice.
LA MAISON ARABE j 41
Bastilla with Vegetables YIELD: 4 SERVINGS 1 carrot 1 turnip
I PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES I COOKING TIME : 30 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE FILLING 1.
Peel all the vegetables. Trim any roots or stems. Cut the vegetables lengthwise and place the cut side down on the cutting board. Cut the vegetables into slices about 14 inch (V2 cm) thick. This technique is called a julienne or "matchstick" where vegetables are cut into long thin strips.
2.
In a skillet, mix the vegetables, olive oil, garlic, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. Cook on medium heat for 10 minutes. Note: Do not salt too much as we are going to add soy sauce later. Place the vegetables in a bowl and reserve.
3.
Cook the Chinese vermicelli for 5 minutes in boiling water. Once done, drain from water. Wash the vermicelli with cold water so it does not become sticky.
4.
Cut the vermicelli with scissors and add it to the vegetables. Add the other tablespoon of parsley and soy sauce to taste. Mix well. Let the stuffing cool down to room temperature before using it.
1 zucchini 1 white cabbage leaf V2 green bell pepper 1 garlic clove (crushed) 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil 1.7 ounces I 50 grams Chinese vermicelli Salt (to taste) Black pepper (to taste) Soy sauce (to taste)
OTHER
DIRECTIONS FOR FOLDING THE BASTILLA 1.
Brush a baking pan or a round oven-proof skillet with melted butter.
2.
Fold the warka sheets in half and put 4 layers in the middle of the baking pan.
3.
Place additional folded warka sheets around the baking pan where 1/3 of their length is overhanging the edge of the pan . Note: If you are using phyllo pastry, make sure to brush every layer with melted butter to avoid dryness and breakage.
Warka sheets (phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers) Melted butter
4.
Spread the vegetable mixture evenly onto the pastry in the center of the baking pan.
1 egg yolk
5.
Carefully fold over the pastry on all sides and brush the top with egg yolk. Add 1 layer of pastry on top and tuck it under the bottom of the pie. Brush surface with melted butter and egg yolk.
6.
Bake the bastilla at 350°F I 180°C for 15 minutes or until it becomes golden brown.
SERVING Carefully turn skillet upside-down on a plate to remove the bastilla. Flip it over again with another plate to get the golden surface on top. Serve immediately.
You can get creative and use your own assortment of vegetables to create a unique bastilla.
LA MAISON ARABE I 43
Couscous Tfaya YIELD: 4 SERVINGS MEAT
1 lb I 500 grams of lamb shoulder chops Vz red onion (finely chopped) 1 tomato (grated, skin discarded) 1 cup dried chick peas (soaked in water overnight) or 1 can of chick peas Small bouquet of fresh cilantro and parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil Water 1 teaspoon salt Vz teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon ground ginger Vz teaspoon ground turmeric
couscous 7 ounces I 20 0 grams of couscous 2 teaspoons vegetable oil Salt (to taste) Water
I
PREP TIME : 30 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME:
90 MINUTES
I
LEVEL : MED IUM
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING THE MEAT
TFAYA
Note: To prepare this dish, you will need a Moroccan couscous pot. See chef's note. 1.
Drizzle the olive oil in the bottom section of the couscous pot and add the meat, onion, spices for the meat, and~ cup of water. Cover the pot and sear the meat for 5 minutes on medium heat.
2. Add the grated tomato and cook for another 5 minutes. 3.
Drain the dry chick peas from the water used for soaking them and add them to the meat. Note: If using canned chick peas, add them at the end as they are pre-cooked and just need to be heated in the sauce.
4.
Pour cold water in the pot until the meat is covered. Cover the pan and cook the meat, on medium-high heat, for 45 minutes or until done. Check on the meat from time to time and add water as necessary until the meat is cooked. Note: At the end, there should be enough sauce covering the meat as the broth is served on the side with the couscous.
5.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE TFAYA 1.
When the meat is done, taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning.
DIRECTIONS FOR STEAMING THE COUSCOUS 1.
While the meat is cooking, start preparing the couscous.
2.
In a large bowl, mix the couscous with sa lt and vegetable oil. Add V2 cup of water and mix well . Let the couscous sit for 5 minutes then rub it in the palms of your hands to break the lumps.
3.
Add the couscous to the upper section of the couscous pot and place it on top of the bottom pot (which contains the meat). Cover the top pot with the lid and cook on medium heat until you see steam coming up from the couscous (approximately 10-15 minutes) . This is the first steaming.
4.
Remove the couscous from the couscous pot and place it in a large bowl. Add Vz cup of water. Mix well and let the couscous sit for 5 minutes.
5.
Return the couscous to the top section of the pot and steam again until you see steam coming up from the couscous (approximately 10 minutes) . This is the second steaming.
6.
Check if the couscous is done, it should be soft. If the couscous is not cooked yet, let it steam a little longer. Otherwise, remove it from the pot, place it in a bowl, and fiuff with a fork.
2. 3.
While the meat and couscous are cooking, drizzle vegetable oil in a saucepan and add the onions and Tfaya spices. Cook, covered, on medium -low heat until the onions are a golden brown color and become soft. This will take approximately 40 minutes. Stir from time to time. If the liquid in the saucepan evaporates before the onions are done, add a little bit of water. When the onions become soft, add the sugar and continue cooking until the onions caramelize. Stir from time to time. Drain the raisins from the water where they were soaking and add them to the onions. Cook for 15 minutes on medium-low heat. At this point the onions and raisins should be richly colored and soaking in a thick syrup.
SERVING Serve the couscous by first setting the couscous grains in a dome shape, pouring some sauce on the couscous, placing the meat and chick peas in the center, and the Tfaya on the top of the "dome". You can also add cooked carrots. Pour the remaining sauce in bowls and serve with the couscous so people can add sauce, to their taste, to their individual plates.
2 lbs I 1 kilogram red onions (finely minced) 2 ounces I 60 grams dried raisins (soaked in water for 1 hour) 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 tablespoons white sugar 1 teaspoon salt Vz teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
A couscous pot is made of two sections: the bottom one is where the meat and vegetables are cooked, while the top one is where the couscous is steamed, with the flavored steam coming up from the bottom one. If you don't have a couscous pot, just cook the meat and vegetables in a normal cooking pot, and steam the couscous in a double-boiler.
Note: For more fiavor, you can fiuff the couscous with 1 tablespoon of smen (clarified butter).
11(1
I l ,A MA I
N ARABE
LA MAISON ARABE I 47
Couscous with Seven Vegetables YIELD: 4 SERVINGS
CHICKEN 1 chicken (2 lbs I 1 kg) 2 tomatoes (peeled and coarsely chopped) 1 onion (coarsely chopped)
I PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES I COOKING TIME: 1 HOUR I LEVEL: DIFFI CULT
1. 2.
1 small bunch of cilantro
2 tablespoons smen I clarified butter (see p.132)
Add the cilantro, parsley, and harder vegetables: cabbage, carrots, turnips, and dry chick peas. Note: If using canned chick peas, add them at the end as they are pre-cooked and just need to be heated in the sauce. Add 2 cups of water, cover the pot and cook on medium heat for 40 minutes or until the chicken is done.
4.
Check on the chicken from time to time and add water as necessary until the chicken is cooked .
V2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Drizzle the olive oil in the bottom section of the couscous pot and add the chicken, onion, tomatoes, spices, and ~ cup of water. Cover the pot and sear the chicken for 5 minutes on medium heat.
3.
Water 1 teaspoon salt
14 ounces I 400 grams of couscous
Note: To prepare this dish, you will need a Moroccan couscous pot.
1 small bunch of parsley 1/3 cup olive oil
couscous
DIRECTIONS FOR THE CHICKEN AND VEGETABLES
Salt (to taste) Water
Note: At the end, there should be enough sauce covering the chicken as the broth is served on the side with the couscous.
1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
DIRECTIONS FOR STEAMING THE COUSCOUS VEGETABLES
1.
While the chicken and vegetables are cooking, prepare the couscous.
V2 small cabbage (cut in half)
2.
In a large bowl, mix the couscous with salt and vegetable oil. Add V2 cup of water and mix well. Let the couscous sit for 5 minutes then rub it in the palms of your hands to break the lumps.
1 small butternut squash or a chunk of red pumpkin (cut into chunks)
3.
1 small eggplant 1 zucchini (ends removed and halved) 4 carrots (peeled and halved)
Add the couscous to the upper section of the couscous pot and place it on top of the bottom pot (that contains the chicken and vegetables). Cover the top pot with the lid and cook on medium heat until you see steam coming up from the couscous (approximately 10-15 minutes). This is the first steaming.
2 turnips (peeled and halved)
4.
2 cups dried chick peas (soaked in water overnight) or 1 can of chick peas
Remove the couscous from the couscous pot and place it in a large bowl. Add 1 cup of water. Mix well and let the couscous sit for 5 minutes.
5.
Return the couscous to the top section of the pot and steam again until you see steam coming up from the couscous (approximately 10 minutes) . This is the second steaming.
6.
Check if the couscous is done; it should be soft. If the couscous is not cooked yet, let it steam a little longer. Otherwise, remove it from the pot, place it in a bowl, and fiuff it with a fork. Add the smen (clarified butter) while fiuffing.
3 red chilies (optional)
1111
FINAL STEPS 1.
Once 40 minutes have elapsed, remove the chicken from the pot and reserve. Taste sauce and adjust the spices accordingly.
2.
Add the softer vegetables to the pot: zucchini, butternut squash, and red chi Ii peppers. Cook on medium heat for 15 minutes or until done.
Some regions in Morocco add potatoes and/or sweet potatoes to the vegetables. Feel free to add any vegetables of your choice. You can also replace the chicken with lamb or beef; if so, the cooking time will be longer as red meat takes longer to cook than chicken.
SERV I NG Serve by setting the couscous grains first in a dome shape, pouring some sauce over the couscous, placing the chicken in the center, and the vegetables on the top of and around the 'dome'. Pour the remaining sauce in bowls and serve with the couscous so people can add sauce, to their taste, to their individual plates.
LA MAISON ARABE I SI
Roasted Lamb Shoulder YIELD: 4 SERVINGS
MEAT 3 lbs I 1.5 kilograms lamb shoulder 2 onions (finely chopped) 6 garlic cloves (peeled and crushed) 1 small bouquet of parsley 1 preserved lemon (cut into quarters) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon smen I clarified butter (see p.132) Water V2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground turmeric A large pinch of saffron threads VEGETABLES 4 carrots (peeled and halved) 4 potatoes (peeled and quartered) 3 cups green beans (medium length) 2 cups green peas Water Olive oil 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley Salt and Pepper
I
PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 2 HOURS I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING THE MEAT 1.
In a cooking pot, drizzle the vegetable oil, add the onions, and cook them on low heat for a few minutes until they become translucent.
2.
Add the meat, garlic, parsley, preserved lemon, and spices. Mix well. Cover the pot and continue cooking on low heat for 20 minutes. Stir from time to time.
3.
Add 2 liters of water. Increase the heat to medium-high, cover the pot, and let the meat cook for around 90 minutes or until the meat becomes tender.
4.
Place the lamb shoulder in a baking pan and brush it with smen (clarified butter). Place the pan in the oven (the higher rack) and broil for 15 minutes.
5.
While the lamb shoulder is broiling, uncover the pot where the meat was cooked, increase the heat to high and reduce the sauce until it becomes thick. Taste the sauce and correct the seasoning.
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING THE VEGETABLES 1.
In a cooking pot, boil water with some salt. Once the water starts to boil, add the vegetables to the pot: first, boil the potatoes and carrots for 10-15 minutes. Then add the green beans and peas and continue boiling for another 10 minutes.
2.
Remove the vegetables from the boiling water and place them immediately in ice-cold water (you can add ice cubes to the water) to stop the cooking process and preserve their crispy texture. Let stand for a few minutes. Drain the vegetables and pat them with paper towels until they are dry.
3.
Drizzle olive oil over the vegetables, top with chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper.
SERVING Place the lamb shoulder on a plate, pour the reduced sauce on top, and decorate with the fried almonds. Place the vegetables on the side.
OTHER 3.5 ounces I 100 grams almonds (blanched and fried)
As a variation, toss the vegetables in olive oil and roast them in the oven at 400°F I 200°C. LA MAISON ARABE I 53
Tagine with Figs and Walnuts YIELD: 2 SERVIN GS
MEAT 1 lb I 500 grams lamb meat (preferably shoulder chops) 1 large onion (finely chopped) 1 small bouquet of parsley and cilantro 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 tablespoon smen I clarified butter (see p.132) Water 1 teaspoon salt V2 teaspoon black pepper V2 teaspoon 'Ras El Hanout' (Moroccan spice mix, see p.131) 1 teaspoon ground turmeric A pinch of saffron threads 1 cinnamon stick 1 teaspoon white sugar or honey (optional) FIGS
10 dried figs 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 cinnamon stick 2 tablespoons white sugar or honey
OTHER
I
PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 90 MINUTES I LEVEL : MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FO R COOKING THE MEAT 1.
Drizzle the vegetable oil in a tagine, casserole, or large heavy pot. Add the meat, chopped onion, spices for the meat (exce pt the sugar or honey). and V4 cup of water. Mix well.
2.
Cover the pot and sear the meat, on low heat, for 15 minutes. Turn the meat over from time to time and add a bit of water if necessary. 3. Add 1 cup of cold water. Add the parsley and cilantro bouquet. Cover, increase the heat to mediumhigh and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, for 50 minutes or until the meat is very tender. Check on the meat from time to time and add water if necessary; there should always be enough sauce in the pot for the meat to fully cook. 4. Five minutes before the meat is done, remove the parsley-cilantro bouquet, and the cinnamon stick from the pot. To enhance the Ravors of this dish, you may add the teaspoon of sugar or honey in this step and let the meat cook for another 5 minutes.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARAMELIZING THE DRIED FIGS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
While the meat is cooking, rinse the dried figs and place them in a saucepan. Add the ground cinnamon and cinnamon stick to the saucepan. Mix well. Cover the figs with water. On medium -high heat, cook the figs, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Then lower the heat to medium and continue cooking fo r another 15 minutes. Add the sugar (or honey) and cook on medium heat for another 5-10 minutes until the sauce becomes syrupy.
SERVING To plate this dish, you should fi rst place the meat, pour the sauce over it, and add the caramelized figs on top. Decorate each fig with a walnut half. Serve hot with crusty bread.
3.5 ounces I 100 grams shelled walnuts
For variation, you can replace the figs with dried prunes or dates, and the walnuts with almonds. LA MA ISON ARABE I 55
Meat Tagine with Oranges and Saffron YIELD: 4 SERVINGS MEAT 2 lbs I 1 kilogram lamb or beef
I
PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES
2.
Add 1 cup of co ld water. Cover, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Cook, covered for 45 minutes or until the meat is very tender. Check on the meat from time to time and add water if necessary; there should always be enough sauce in the pot for the meat to fully cook.
3.
Once the meat is done, continue cooking, uncovered, for a few minutes until the sauce slightly thickens.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARAMELIZING THE ORANGES 1.
While the meat is cooking, run a citrus peeler down the length of the oranges and tangerines, removing the rind in thin strips. If you do not own a citrus peeler, you can just peel the oranges with a paring knife and thin ly slice the peel. Keep the orange pulp to use later on for decoration.
2.
Place the orange peel slices in a sauce pan and add enough cold water to cover them. Slowly bring the water to a boiling point, then place the lid over the saucepan, and let the orange peel cook for 10 minutes. Once done, drain the peel from the water.
3.
To make the syrup, add sugar and 2 cups of water in a different saucepan. Stir over low heat until the sugar is dissolved. Add the orange peel slices, cinnamon stick, and cloves to the syrup and cook gently until the orange strips begin to look transparent.
CARAMELIZED ORANGES 4 large oranges (preferably navel) 0.5 lbs I 250 grams tangerines 1 cup I 250 grams white sugar 1 cinnamon stick 4 cloves Water GARNISH 1 ounce I 25 grams roasted sesame seeds
LEVEL: MED IUM
Drizzle the vegetable oil in a tagine, casserole, or large heavy pot. Add the chopped onions, meat, and meat spices. Mix well. Cover the pot and sear the meat, on low heat, for 15 minutes. Turn the meat over from time to time and add a bit of water if necessary.
1 teaspoon salt
A large pinch saffron threads
I
1.
1 tablespoon butter
V2 teaspoon black pepper Vz teaspoon ground ginger V2 teaspoon ground turmeric
COOKING TIME: 90 MINUTES
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING THE MEAT
2 large onions (finely chopped) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Water
I
SERVING First place the meat, pour the sauce over it, and add the caramelized orange peel on top. Slice the orange pulp, dip it in the caramelized orange zest syrup, and place decoratively on top and around the meat. Finish by sprinkling roasted sesame seeds. Serve hot with crusty bread.
If you cannot find oranges, replace them with another citrus fruit.
LA MAISON ARABE I 57
Lamb Tagine with Green Peas and Fennel YIELD : 4-6 SERVINGS 1 lb I 500 grams lamb meat (preferably shoulder chops)
I PREP TIME: 20 MINUTES I COOKING TIME: 1 HOUR I LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS 1.
Prepare the fennel by cutting the stalks and frond s off each bulb. Cut off the thickest part of the base and then pee l off the outer layer or two from the bulb. Halve or quarter the bulbs.
2.
Drizzle both the olive and vegetable oil in a tagine, casserole, or large heavy pot. Add the meat, onion, garlic, parsley, cilantro , and spices to the pot. Mix well.
1 large onion (finely chopped)
3.
3 garlic cloves (finely chopped or crushed)
Cover the pot and sear the meat, on low heat, for 15 minutes. Turn the meat over from time to time and add a bit of water if necessary.
4.
Add 1 cup of cold water. Cover, increase the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil. Cook, covered for 45 minutes or until the meat is very tender. Check on the meat from time to time and add water if necessary; there should always be enough sauce in the pot for the meat to fully cook.
5.
Add the green peas and fennel quarters to the pot. If the vegetables are not fully covered in liquid, add more water. Cover and cook on medium heat for 20 minutes or until the meat is done.
6.
Once the meat is done, reduce the heat, uncover, and let the sauce simmer for a few minutes until it becomes thick.
1 lb
I 500 grams green peas (fresh or frozen)
1 lb I 500 grams fennel bulbs
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Water 1 teaspoon salt
V2 teaspoon black pepper V2 teaspoon ground ginger V2 teaspoon ground turmeric A pinch of saffron threads
SERVING To serve this dish, first place the meat on a plate, then cover it with the sauce and vegetables. Serve hot with crusty bread.
For a more flavorful version, during the last 5 minutes of cooking, take half of a preserved lemon, wash it with water to remove saltiness, cut it in quarters, and add it to the tagine. For variation, you can replace the fennel bulbs with fresh or frozen artichoke hearts.
LA MAISON ARABE I 59
Tagine Makfoul YIELD: 2 SERVINGS
MEAT 1 lb
I 500 grams lamb meat
I PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES I COOKING TIME : 1 HOUR I LEVEL: MEDIUM DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING THE MEAT 1.
Drizzle the vegetable oil in a tagine, a casserole, or large heavy pot. Add the chopped onion, meat, and meat spices. Mix well. Cover the pot and sear the meat, on low heat, for 15 minutes. Turn the meat over from time to time and add a bit of water if necessary.
2.
Add 1 cup of cold water. Add the parsley and cilantro. Cover, increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, for 45 minutes or until the meat is very tender. Check on the meat from time to time and add water if necessary; there should always be enough sauce in the pot for the meat to fully cook.
(cut into chunks) 1 large onion (finely chopped) 1 small bunch of parsley 1 small bouquet of cilantro 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Water 1 teaspoon salt
DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING THE MAKFOUL
V2 teaspoon black pepper
1.
Peel and slice 2 onions and 3 tomatoes into very thin slices.
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2.
Twenty minutes before the meat is done, remove the parsley and cilantro from the pot and place the onion slices on top of and around the meat. Pour some of the sauce over the onion slices. Cover and let the onions cook for 10 minutes.
3.
Place the tomato slices on top of the onion.
4.
Sprinkle 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 2 tablespoons sugar over the tomatoes.
5.
Cover the pot and let all the ingredients cook for another 10 minutes.
6.
Reduce the heat, uncover, and let the sauce simmer for a few minutes until it becomes thick.
V2 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 cinnamon stick
MAKFOUL 2 large onions (preferably a sweet variety of yellow or white) 3 tomatoes 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
SERVING Top the meat with the caramelized onions and tomatoes, and serve hot with crusty bread.
2 tablespoons white sugar
For a deeper sweet flavor, you can replace the sugar with honey.
LA MAISON ARABE I 61
Chicken Tagine with Preserved Lemons YIELD: 2 SERVINGS 1 lb I 500 grams whole chicken
I
PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 35 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS
(cut into large chunks)
1.
V2 red onion (fine ly chopped) V2 preserved lemon
Cut the preserved lemon in half and separate the flesh from the peel . Reserve the pee l and fine ly chop the preserved lemon pulp.
2.
Place the chopped lemon pu lp in a tagine, casserole, or large heavy pot. Add the olive oi l, smen (clarified butter), garlic, parsley, cilantro, all the spices, and V2 cup of cold water. Mix wel l.
3.
Add the chicken pieces to the pot and pierce them with a sharp knife so that they absorb the spices. Mix all the ingredients until the chicken pieces are we ll coated with the marinade.
1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro
4.
Add the finely -chopped onion to the pot. Mix we ll.
2 tablespoons olive oil
5.
On medium-low heat, sear the chicken pieces for 15 minutes. The pot shou ld be closed (using its lid) to keep the moisture in; otherwise, the chicken pieces will dry out and stick to the bottom of the pot. Turn each piece of chicken over and add a bit of water if necessary .
6.
Add Vz cup of cold water. In crease the heat to medium, cover the pot, and bring th e cooking juices to a boil. Cook, covered, for 30 minutes or until the chicken is done. Check on the chicken from time to time and add wate r if necessary; there should always be aroun d 1 cup of sauce in the pot for the meat not to burn.
10 purple or green olives 2 garlic cloves (finely chopped) 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 tablespoon smen I clarified butter (see p.132) Water
V2 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground turmeric A pinch saffron th reads
7.
Once the chicken is done, taste the sauce and correct the seasoning.
8.
Add the lemon peel and olives to the pot. Continue cooking, uncovered, for a few minutes, until the sauce slightly thickens.
SERVING Serve the chicken tagine hot with crusty bread.
You do not have to add salt to this dish as the saltiness will come from the preserved lemon.
LA MAISON ARABE I 63
Chicken Tagine with Apricots and Argan Oil YIELD: 2 SERVINGS CHICKEN
1 lb I 500 grams whole chicken (cut into large chunks) 1 large onion (finely chopped) 1 tablespoon argan oil (see p.132) 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 1 teaspoon butter Water 1 teaspoon salt Yz teaspoon black pepper 1 cinnamon stick Y2 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground turmeric A pinch saffron threads APRICOTS
10 dried apricots 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 cinnamon stick 2 cloves 2 tab lespoons white sugar
I
PREP TIME : 30 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME : 35 MINUTES I
LEVEL : EASY
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING THE CHICKEN 1.
Drizzle the vegetable oil in a tagine, casserole, or large heavy pot. Add the meat, chopped onion, spices for the meat (except the sugar or honey), and Y4 cup of water. Mix well. 2. Cover the pot and sear the meat, on low heat, for 15 minutes. Turn the meat over from time to time and add a bit of water if necessary. 3. Add 1 cup of cold water. Add the parsley and cilantro bouquet. Cover, increase the heat to mediumhigh and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, for 50 minutes or until the meat is very tender. Check on the meat from time to time and add water if necessary; there should always be enough sauce in the pot for the meat to fully cook. 4. Five minutes before the meat is done, remove the parsley-cilantro bouquet, and the cinnamon stick from the pot. To enhance the fiavors of this dish, you may add a teaspoon of sugar or honey in this step and let the meat cook for another 5 minutes.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARAMELIZING THE APRICOTS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
While the chicken is cooking, rinse the dried apricots and place them in a saucepan. Add the spices for the apricots, without sugar, to the sauce pan. Mix well. Cover the apricots with water. On medium heat, cook the apricots, covered, for 10 minutes. Then lower the heat and continue cooking for another 20 minutes. Add the sugar to the apricots and simmer, for 10 to 15 minutes, on medium-low heat until the liquid is reduced to a glaze.
SERVING For variation, you can replace the dried apricots with dried prunes or dates. If you want an extraoriental touch, sprinkle roasted sesame seeds on the dish before serving or decorate with fried almonds.
Place the chicken on the tagine dish, pour the sauce over it, and add the caramelized apricots. Serve hot with crusty bread.
LA MAISON ARABE I 65
Tagine M'darbel YIELD: 2 SERVINGS
CHICKEN 1 lb I 500 grams whole chicken (cut into large chunks) 1 large onion (finely chopped) 1 small bouquet of parsley and cilantro 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Water 1 teaspoon salt V2 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon A pinch of saffron threads CARAMELIZED TOMATOES 4.5 pounds I 2 kilograms tomatoes 1 lb I 500 grams white sugar 1 teaspoon vegetable oil V2 teaspoon ground cinnamon A pinch of salt GARNISH Roasted sesame seeds
PREP TIME : 15 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 90 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FOR COOKING THE CHICKEN 1.
Drizzle the olive and vegetable oil in a tagine, casserole, or large heavy pot. Add the chicken, the spices for the chicken, and 14 cup of water. Mix well.
2.
Add the finely chopped onion to the pot. Cover the pot and sear the chicken, on low heat, for 15 minutes. Turn the chicken over from time to time and add a bit of water if necessary.
3.
Add V2 cup of cold water and the bouquet of parsley and cilantro. Cover, increase the heat to medium high, and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, for 30 minutes or until the chicken is very tender. Check on the chicken from time to time and add water if necessary; there should always be around 1 cup of sauce in the pot.
4.
Once the chicken is done, uncover the pot, and continue cooking for a few minutes, until the sauce slightly thickens. Note: Before serving, remove and discard the bouquet of parsley and cilantro.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARAMELIZING THE TOMATOES 1.
Cut the tomatoes in half and remove the seeds. Gra te the tomatoes and discard the skin.
2.
Place the tomatoes in a large saucepan. On low heat, cook the tomatoes, covered, for 15 minutes.
3.
Add the vegetable oil, sugar, cinnamon, and salt to the tomatoes. Mix well.
4.
Cook uncovered on low heat until the tomatoes become caramelized (45 minutes to 1 hour). Stir from time to time.
SERVING To serve, place the chicken on the tagine dish, pour the sauce over it, and add the caramelized tomatoes on top. Finish by sprinkling roasted sesame seeds.
For a variation of this dish, replace the tomatoes with pumpkin. Wrap the pumpkin pieces with plastic wrap and microwave them for 15 minutes (until they become soft). Caramelize the pumpkin, following the same instructions as for the tomatoes. LA MAISON ARABE I 67
Berber Vegetable Tagine YIELD: 2 SERVINGS 2 carrots 1 turnip 2 zucchinis 1 large white potato 1 tomato 1 small cauliflower Yz small green pepper cup I 50 grams green peas VJ cup I 50 grams green beans 1 small onion 1 garlic clove (thinly sliced) 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley 1 tablespoon finely chopped cilantro 2 tablespoons olive oil Water
I PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES I COOKING TIME: 1 HOUR I
LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS 1. 2.
3. 4.
5.
Mix all the spices in 1 cup of water to create a spice marinade. Clean and prepare all the vegetables: - Peel the carrots and turnips and cut them in half. - Cut the zucchinis in half without peeling them. - Peel the potato and cut into quarters. - Dice the tomato with the skin. - Remove the green outer leaves of the cauliflower. Using a knife, carefully cut the cauliflower florets from the hard stem. Discard the stem. - Slice the green pepper. - Snap off and discard the ends of the green beans. Cut them into medium-length strips. - Thinly slice the onion. Drizzle the olive oil in the tagine and evenly disperse the onion slices. If you don't have a tagine, you can cook this dish using a heavy pot. Add the garlic and the rest of the vegetables to the tagine, trying to create a nice display. Leave the tomato slices until the end and place them on top. Sprinkle the chopped parsley and cilantro over the vegetables. Pour the spice marinade over the vegetables. Cover the tagine with its lid and let the vegetables cook on low heat from 45 minutes to 1 hour. From time to time check on the vegetables to make sure that there is enough liquid in the tagine. Add water if necessary, but only small amounts at a time. Also, from time to time, take some of the liquid in the tagine and baste it over the vegetables so that those placed on top absorb the flavors of the sauce.
SERVING Serve this dish hot with crusty bread.
If you like your food spicy, add a few chili peppers to the vegetables.
LA MAISON ARABE I 69
MOROCCAN STYLE ORANGE SLICES 73 GAZELLE HORNS 76
MHENCHA 79
ALMOND GHRIBA 81
MILK BASTILLA 83
FRUIT BASTILLA 85
LA MAISON ARABE I 7 1
Moroccan Style Orange Slices YIELD : 2 SERVIN GS
I PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS 1 orange (preferably navel) 1 teaspoon powdered sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon orange blossom water
1.
Pee l and slice the orange cro sswise.
2.
Arrange the orange slices on a circular platter. Sprinkle lightly with orange blossom water, and dust with powdered sugar and ground cinnamon .
3.
Chill before serving.
To add a crunchy texture, top with toasted or fried slivered blanched almonds.
LA MAISON ARABE I 73
Gazelle Horns YIELD: 20 - 30 COOKIES
DOUGH
I PREP TIME: 45 MINUTES I COOKING TIME : 15 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE DOUGH
3 14+ cups I 375 grams flour
1.
Mix all the dough ingredients together.
8 tablespoons I 100 grams unsalted butter (melted)
2.
Knead the dough using a stand mixer with a dough hook (10-15 minutes) or manually (20 minutes) until you have smooth elastic dough. If the dough is dry, add 1 teaspoon (or more if needed) of orange blossom water and continue kneading the dough.
3.
Divide the dough into 4 equal portions, cover each portion with plastic wrap, place in the refrigerator, and let the dough rest for at least 1 hour while preparing the almond filling.
1 large egg 1 tablespoon powdered sugar A pinch of salt 5 tablespoons orange blossom water
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE ALMOND FILLING
ALMOND FILLING
1.
Mix the blanched almonds and sugar using a food processor.
1 lb I 500 grams blanched almonds
2.
Once the almond mixture has a powdery texture, add the orange blossom water, butter, and mastic gum. Mix well until you get a sm ooth almond paste.
3.
Shape the almond paste into long rolls that are 3 inches I 7.5 cm long and Y2 inch I 1 cm wide (it will make around 35 almond paste roll s).
3/4 cup I 180 grams white sugar 2 tablespoons orange blossom water 2 tablespoons I 30 grams butter A pinch of finely ground mastic gum
EGG WASH 1 egg 1 tablespoon orange blossom water
If you want a variation, you can make the Gazelle Horns with sesame seeds, which are similar to but easier to prepare than the traditional Gazelle Horns. The almond rolls are covered with sesame seeds instead of dough .
DIRECTIONS FOR ROLLING THE COOKIES 1.
Lightly dust your work station with flour so that the dough does not stick while you are rolling it.
2.
Using a rolling pin, roll the dough until you get a sheer layer, very thin and almost transparent.
3.
Place the almond rolls near the top of the dough layer. The almond rolls should be spaced enough for you to be able to cut the dough in between the ro lls to create individual cookies.
4.
5.
6.
7.
/ r, i t /\ MA ISON /\ RABE
You can freeze the cookies for up to one month in an airtight container.
Fold the top edge of the dough over the almond roll s. Press the folded dough to sea l it tightly around the almond rolls. Using your fingertip s, pinch each almond roll (covered with the dough) to form a crescent, with the closed side of the "U" shape facing the rest of the dough and the open side facing the work station. Using a pastry wheel, preferably fluted to create the traditional wavy shape of these cookies, cut the dough along the edges, following the externa l side of the "U" shape. The cookies are now se parated. Lightly press the edges to make sure that they are sealed. Transfer the cookies onto a baking pan covered with parchment paper. Repeat steps 3-6 until you finish all the dough and almond fil ling.
FINAL STEPS 1.
Preheat oven to 300 °FI 150 °C.
2.
Prepare the egg wash by mixi ng 1 egg with orange blossom water.
3.
Lightly brush the wash onto the cookies.
4.
Using a thin needle (or thin skewer), make 3-4 holes at the top of each cookie.
5.
Bake the cookies, in the middle rack of the oven, for 10-15 minutes until very slightly goldenbrown . Do not over-bake. When the cookies are still hot they are soft, but as they cool down, they will become chewy.
6.
Let the cookies cool a bit before transferring them to a rack or plate.
Note : Gather up all dough scraps together, shape them into balls, cover them in plastic wrap and let them rest for 15 minutes before rolling them again.
SE RVING
For best results, cover the cookies with a clean cloth and let them rest overnight before baking.
Serve cold with Moroccan mint tea.
Prepare the almond paste as described above and then dip each roll in egg whites and cover with sesame seeds. Place the rolls on a baking pan with parchment paper and shape them into a crescent. Bake for 10-15 minutes. Enjoy!
LA MAISON ARABE I 77
Mhencha YIELD : 4 SERVINGS
FILLING 9 oz I 250 grams blanched raw almonds V2 cup I 125 grams white sugar 3 tablespoons I 40 grams butter (melted) 2 tablespoons orange blossom water ~ teaspoon ground cinnamon A pinch of finely ground mastic gum PASTRY Warka sheets (or substitute with phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers) Melted butter 1 egg yolk DECORATION Honey Fried almonds (chopped)
PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME : 30 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS 1.
Preheat your oven to 350 °F I 180 °(
2.
To make the filling, mix all of the filling ingredients together using a food processor until you get a smooth almond paste.
3.
Roll the almond paste into thin cylinders as long as a sheet of warka (or phyllo) .
4.
Place one of your almond paste cylinders on one side of the warka and then roll it up tightly in the pastry. Note: if you are using phyllo, you will have to take at least three sheets together and brush the top sheet with melted butter before rolling. However, you do not have to do so with warka as it is not as dry as phyllo.
5.
Using your index fingers, gently push each end of the roll to close the dough around the almond paste. Repeat step #3 until al l of the almond paste is wrapped in dough.
6.
Brush a round baking pan with melted butter and then coil the almond rolls inside of the pan, in the shape of a coiled snake .
7.
Brush the top of the coils with the egg yolk. Note: If you are using phyllo, you will have to brush the top with melted butter first, and then brush with the egg yo lk.
8.
Bake the Mhencha for 30-40 minutes or until golden brown.
9.
Once the Mhencha is done, remove it from the oven, and pour warm honey over it. Sprinkle the fried almonds on top.
SERVING Cut the Mhen cha into small pieces and serve cold with Moroccan mint tea.
For a richer almond flavor you can modify the filling by replacing half of the raw blanched almonds with fried blanched almonds. Also, you can jlavor the warm honey with orange blossom water or rose water.
LA MAISON ARABE I 79
Almond Ghriba YIELD: 20 - 30 COOKIES
FILLING 2 lbs I 1 kilogram blanched almonds 1 V2 cups I 150 grams powdered sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon A pinch of finely ground mastic gum 2 teaspoons baking powder A pinch of salt 2 whole eggs 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons white sugar 2 tablespoons butter (softened) Zest of 1 orange 2 tablespoons orange blossom water
PREP TIME: 30 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 15 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING THE DOUGH 1.
Preheat your oven to 350 °F I 180 °(.
2.
In a food processor, grind the blanched almonds in batches until you get an almond powder with a fine texture.
3.
In a large bowl, mix the almond powder with powdered sugar, ground cinnamon, mastic gum, salt, and baking powder.
4.
Beat the whole eggs and egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of white sugar until thick. Beat in the softened butter, orange zest, and orange blossom water.
5.
Incorporate the almond mixture into the egg mixture. Use your hands to mix the dough to ensure that all ingredients are well-incorporated.
6.
Cover the dough with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING THE ICING To make the icing, lightly beat the egg whites with V4 teaspoon of fresh lemon or orange juice.
ICING 2 egg whites 1A teaspoon fresh lemon or orange juice
OTHER V2 cup vegetable oil
DIRECTIONS FOR ROLLING THE COOKIES 1.
To roll the cookies, put some vegetable oil on your hands so that the dough does not stick to them. Take a small amount of dough and roll it in a ball, flatten a bit, dip it in the icing, and then roll it in the powdered sugar.
2.
Place the cookie on a baking sheet covered with parchment paper. Continue shaping the cookies until you finish all the dough. Leave some space between the cookies as they will expand once baked.
3.
Bake the cookies for 15 minutes. Do not over-bake. When the cookies are still hot they are soft, but as they cool down, they will become chewy.
4.
Let the cookies cool a bit before transferring them to a rack or plate; otherwise, if transferred while sti ll hot, the cookies will crumble .
3 tablespoons powdered sugar
You can freeze the cookies for up to one month in an airtight container.
SE RVING Serve cold with Moroccan mint tea.
LA MAISON ARABE J 81
Milk Bastilla YIELD : 6 SERVINGS
MILK CREAM 2 cups I V2 liter whole milk 1 cup I 200 grams white sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch The peel of 1 orange (cut into chunks) 1 tablespoon orange blossom water DOUGH Warka sheets (or substitute with phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers) Vegetable oil for frying
PREP TIME : 1 HOUR
I COOKING TIME : 20 MINUTES I LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FOR FRYING THE ALMONDS 1.
Place vegetable oil in a frying pan and heat it on medium heat. There shou ld be enough oil to cover the almonds that you are going to fry.
2.
Drop an almond in the pan to test if the oil is ready. If sma ll bubbles cover the almond within a few seconds, then you can add the rest of the almonds. However, if the oil boils and splatters, it's too hot and you need to let it cool a bit before using it.
3.
Fry the almonds until they become golden brown, stirring constantly.
4.
Transfer the almonds to a plate or tray covered with paper towels to absorb excess oil.
5.
Chop the almonds into chunks using a food processor or kitchen knife.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE MILK CREAM In a saucepan, add the milk, sugar, cornstarch, orange peel chunks, and orange blossom water. Cook all the ingredients on medium heat until the milk reaches a boiling point. Reduce the heat, and continue cooking the milk mixture for an extra 5 minutes. Stir constantly while cooking the milk cream to get a smooth texture.
FINAL STEPS
Yo u can sprinkle ground cinnamon on the sheets while stacking the milk bastilla. Also, you can use crushed pistachios to add a colorful touch to this dessert.
1.
Cut the warka sheets into circles (4 inches I 10 cm diameter) .
2.
Press two sheets together and fry in hot oil until they become golden brown.
3.
Remove from the oil and drain on paper towels.
4.
Repeat steps 1-3 until the rest of the sheets are fried as well.
SERVING Place one of the crispy sheets on a plate, cover it with the milk cream , and sprinkle the fried almonds on top. Repeat with other sheets until you get a stack of 3-4 layers. Pour milk cream and sprinkle almonds over the very last sheet. Serve immediately.
For a healthier version of this recipe, instead offrying the dough, you can brush it with oil or melted butter and bake in the oven until it becomes goldenbrown.
LA MAISON ARABE I 83
Fruit Bastilla PREP TIME: 1 HOUR
YIELD: 6 SERVINGS WHIPPED CREAM 2 cups I 480 ml heavy cream 3 tablespoons rose water or orange blossom water 2 tablespoons white sugar DOUGH Warka sheets (or substitute with phyllo dough or spring roll wrappers) Vegetable oil for frying THINLY-SLICED FRUIT Bananas Plums Strawberries Apples
I COOKINGTIME: 20 MINUTES I
LEVEL: MEDIUM
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE WHIPPED CREAM 1.
Place the heavy cream , sugar, and rose water (or orange blossom water) in a bowl. With an electric hand mixer, whisk the cream. Start slowly at first (to avoid sp lattering the cream), and then increase the speed of the mixer as the cream thickens.
2.
After a few minutes of high-speed mixing, start checking for soft peaks that are formed when you remove the whisk from the cream . Reduce the speed when you start noticing the soft peaks to avoid over-beating; otherwise, your whipped cream will have clumps and its texture wi ll be grainy.
GENERAL DIRECTIONS 1.
Cut the warka sheets into circles (4 inches I 10 cm diameter).
2.
Heat the oil in a heavy pan.
3.
Press 2 warka disks together and fry in hot oi l until they become go lden brown.
4.
Remove from oil and drain on paper towels. Repeat steps 1-3 until the rest of the sheets are fried as well .
SERVING Place one of the crispy sheets on a plate, cover with the heavy cream, and top with fruit slices. Repeat with other sheets until you get a stack of 3-4 layers. Finish with a layer of heavy cream and fruit slices. Serve immediately.
LA MAISON ARABE I 85
MOROCCAN MINT TEA 89 SAFFRON TEA 91
MOROCCAN ALMOND MILKSHAKE 93 MOROCCAN AVOCADO MILKSHAKE 95 MOROJITO 97
I.A MA IS NARA BE I 87
Morrocan Mint Tea YIELD : 2 SERVINGS 1 large handful of fresh mint 3 teaspoons loose green tea (Gunpowder or Chun Mee) 3 tablespoons sugar 4 cups water
J
PREP TIME : 15 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS 1. 2.
Boil water. Pour a small amount of boiling water into a medium size Moroccan teapot, swishing it around to warm the teapot. 3. Add the green tea to the pot. 4. Add 1 cup of boiling water to the teapot and mix well. Pour the water into a cup. Set aside. (This step is to extract the core tea fiavor) . 5. Add 1 cup of boiling water to the teapot and swish around. Pour the water into a cup. Discard. (This step is to clean the tea; you will notice that the water is now darker than at step 4). 6. Add the mint leaves and sugar to the teapot. Pour the cup of tea-fiavored water from step 4 back into the pot. 7. Add boiling water to the teapot. 8. Place the teapot on the stove and, on low heat, bring the tea to a boil. This is an important step as it allows the sugar to caramelize and gives Moroccan tea its special fiavor . 9. Before serving, mix all the ingredients by pouring tea into a glass and then pouring it back into the teapot. Repeat this step 2-3 times.
SERVING While pouring, hold the teapot high above the glass, to get the distinctive foam of Moroccan mint tea. Garnish with sprigs of fresh mint.
For an extra exotic touch, you can add a few drops of orange blossom water to the teapot before serving. LA MAISON ARABE I 89
Saffron Tea YIELD: 2 SERVINGS 1 tablespoon loose green tea (Gunpowder or Chun Mee) Vz teaspoon saffron threads 4-5 cups water 2 tablespoons honey (to taste)
I
PREP TIME: 15 MINUTES
I COOKING TIME: 10 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Boil water. Pour a sma ll amount of boiling water into a medium sized Moroccan teapot, swishing it around to warm the teapot. Add the loose green tea to the teapot. Add 1 cup boiling water to the teapot and mix well. Pour the water into a cup. Set aside. (This step is to extract the core tea navor) . Add 1 cup boiling water to the teapot and swish around. Pour the water into a cup. Discard. (This step is to clean the loose tea; you will notice that the water is now darker than at step 4) . Add saffron and honey to the teapot. Pour the cup of tea navored water from step 4 back into the pot. Add the remaining hot water to the teapot. Place the teapot on the stove and, on low heat, bring the tea to a boiling point. Before serving, mix all the ingredients by pouring tea into a glass and then pouring it back into the teapot. Repeat this step 2-3 times.
SERVING While pouring, hold the teapot high above the glass, to get the distinctive foam of Moroccan tea.
You can replace the honey with sugar.
LA MAISON ARABE I 91
Moroccan Almond Milkshake YIELD: 1 SERVING % cup cold milk
cup water V2 cup whole raw almonds V2 tablespoon sugar teaspoon orange blossom water ~
~
I PREP TIME : 10 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY
DIRECTIONS 1. 2.
In a food processor, grind the almonds until you get a fine powder. In a blender, add the almond powder, milk, water, sugar, and orange blossom water and mix at high speed until smooth.
SERVING Serve cold.
You can control the thickness of the milkshake by adding or reducing the amount of milk. Also, if desired, you can blend ice cubes with the ingredients.
LA MAISON ARABE I 93
Moroccan Avocado Milkshake YIELD : 2 SERVINGS 3 cups milk 1 avocado 7-8 dates (pitted) ~ cup raw almonds ~ cup raisins 3 tablespoons sugar
I
PREP TIME: 10 MINUTES
I
LEVEL : EASY
DIRECTIONS 1.
Soak dates and raisins in hot water for 10 minutes until they soften . Drain and let them cool.
2.
In a food processor, grind the almonds until you get a fine powder.
3.
Peel the avocado and cut in half. Discard the skin and pit.
4.
Put all ingredients into a blender. Mix at high speed until smooth.
SERVING Serve immediately, as the avocado turns brown after exposure to air. Add ice cubes to chill.
You can control the thickness of the milkshake by adding or reducing the amount of milk. If you do not like dried fruits, you can omit them from the recipe.
LA MAISON ARABE I 95
Morojito YIELD : 5 SERVINGS I PREP TIME: 5 MINUTES I LEVEL: EASY .............................................................. ············································································· ..... , ................................................................................................ .
DIRECTIONS 20 fresh mint leaves 1 fresh lime 1 liter pineapple juice 1 tablespoon mint syrup 1 cup ice cubes
1. 2. 3.
Cut the fresh lime into 4 wedges. Mix all the ingredients in a blender with ice cubes. Drain in strainer.
SERVING Serve with ice, and garnish with mint leaves and a slice of lime.
For a Morojito with alcohol, just add rum or vodka.
LA MAISON ARABE I 97
Invitation to a Dream by Annie Heminway
At the tim e, the cognoscenti characteri zed La Maison Arabe as a place suffused with charm. A monumen tal understatem ent! Of course, its charm was undeniable, but this place, conforming to Gaston Bachelard's definition of a house as a living being, had a soul. Here, one immediately felt welcome, embraced by a sweetness, and encouraged to live the good life . An abode like no othe r. Completely bewitched, I experienced the kind
"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch, you must first invent the universe."
of inner illumination described so eloquently by Jack
- Cosmos, Carl Sagan
Kerouac in his 1966 novella Satori ifl Paris. I had my satori at La Maison Arabe, which, to my mind, not
My first encounter with La Maison Arabe was nothing short of an overwhelming mystical experience . Time
only represented the quintessence of Marrakech and
stopped. A foretaste of Paradise? At the threshold of La Maison Arabe, which I first crossed in 1998, I was
of the entire country, but also contained, miraculously,
the pilgrim who suddenly glimpsed the face of her Beloved , the alchemist fin ally cutting the Gordian knot of
the entire universe: a macrocosm encompassed by a
transmutation, the mystic beholding the Ultimate Vision.
microcosm. What instantly captivated my soul was the sheer, even unearthly, beauty of a place to which, I knew, I could Fortunately, the festival was a great success , which
always return . Almost hearing the supernatural strains of the magical dulcimer from Coleridge's immortal poem
provided me with the opportunity to visit Marrakech
"Kubla Kahn," an elegy to an otherworldly pleasure dome, I immediately knew that this was no brief encounter,
several times a year . Every time I returned to La
but an experience, akin to unfathomable musical creation, that I could always re-create, without losing my initial
Maison Arabe , I was like a child on a treasure hunt,
sense of wonderment. La Maison Arabe, a legendary restaurant and hotel in Marrakech, Morocco, was indeed, as I subsequently discovered, the creation of a wizard who could compete, if he so desired, with the magician-
noticing new fabrics, artifacts, and works of art from all over the world . In fact, the hotel itself was an evolving
architects behind the impossibly opulent palaces of the Arabian Nights .
work of art, attaining, as the years went by, unimaginable levels of beauty. This enchanted kingdom' s Prospero was, and still is, Fabrizio Ruspoli, the current owner of La Maison Arabe.
A seasoned traveler and a citizen of the world , I never set foot in Morocco before 1998. Was I, unknowingly, following a mysterious trajectory set out by Destiny? In itself, the trip was part of an effort to organize a four-
It is difficult, if not impossible, to find words that will accurately describes Fabrizio's devotion to beauty . While
day festival of Moroccan culture in New York. So here I was, as the year was drawing to a close (it was the week
mortals, and even artists, merely perceive beauty, Fabrizio views Beauty as a goddess who requires incessant
before Christmas) with my mother, crisscrossing the charming city of Marrakech , sightseeing, meeting artists,
adoration. Consequently, La Maison Arabe is a living work of art. Every time I return, I see additions to the
writers, and musicians, spending time in the medina, off the beaten path, but unaware of the proximity of a
seemingly perfect symphony of form s and colors .
venerable house that would profoundly transform my life .
LA MAISON ARABE I 101
11111 I I A MA ISON i\Ri\llE -
- ~ --
-
One suddenly notices architectural developments-a new room, a niche, an arcade, a fre shly painted wall whose gentle color is intensified by the sunset-new experiences which often conjure up old memorie s. Year after year, Fabrizio continues to amaze his guests. Did the discreetly magnificent suites, allowing the visitor to simultaneously enjoy, tranquility, an intimate ambiance, and a view of the medina, exist last year? Perhaps my
quintessentially Oriental, and timeless, spirit of hospitality, generosity, and friend ship . The rose did not appear ex flihilo, its seeds were planted, in the late 1930s, by two extraordinary French women, Helene Sebillon-Larochette and her daughter, Suzy, as explained by Fabrizio Ruspoli in his introduction. The rose blossoming, miraculou sly, overnight, La Mai so n Arabe quickly became the flee plus ultra in the culinary
rea lity is Fabrizio' s dream . One never can tell. In 2009, a new space se t on the former pas ha's stables, almost
world of Morocco . Insisting on absolute culinary
9,200 square feet, materialized: suites built in
and cultural authenticity (for example, silverware
the spirit of traditional Moroccan architecture -
was not used), Suzy simply aimed for perfection .
arcades and niches coated with stucco, wal ls
As a result, La Maison Arabe started attracting the
finely plastered with tadelakt, terraces with cedar
most distinguished guests. Even the most illustrious
balustrades enriched by intricate mas hrabiyah
visitors, as Suzy was proud to point out, respected
latticework, a magnificent pool surrounded by
Moroccan customs, and ate with their fingers.
luxuriant vegetation. In 1983 , time caught up with Suzy : feeling unable La Maison Arabe has always reminded me of
to continue working at her customary hectic pace,
a particular variety of rose, graced, in Latin
she closed the restaurant. It was a sad moment for
America, by the beautiful name of La Esperanza.
her, and for her admiring clientele. La Maison Arabe
This diaphanou s flower is known for its silky
had become a melancholy ghost, a fading memory.
petal s, which open, gently, one after the other:
Fortunately, as in a fairy tale, a prince appeared
an infinite efflore scence, one would say, of
with an elixir promising new life. Indeed, in 1994,
beauty con stantly magnified. As time flows , thi s
Fabrizio Ru spoli , an Italian with chi ldhood ties to
Warda (the flower' s name in Arabic), continuously
North Africa, and a resident of Marrakech since
bloss oms. So does La Maison Arabe, the luxuriant garden enclosed, where the wanderer finds an unearthly oasis, an embodiment of elegance, tranquility, and sheer delight.
1992, bought La Maison Arabe, hoping to restore the restaurant to its former glory. While Fabrizio was renovating the old house, I imagine he had visions of the mythical phoenix, for when La Maison Arabe reopened in 1998, it looked more like a mirage than an old restaurant brought back to life , for the establishment now included an elegant hotel and a cooking schoo l.
And it is here that the visitor encounters the
IO'l
llllvl/llSON/IR/IBF.
LA MAI SON ARA BE I 103
Great creative minds appreciate tradition : Fabrizio is no exception. When he became a restaurateur, he knew
that I will always have access to a wide array of interesting, so phisticated, meticulously organized activities. For
who guarded the philosopher's stone of Moroccan cooking and possessed the abi lity to pass on culinary arcana
example, after an early morning drive to the beautiful Ourika Valley, located forty-five minutes from the hotel,
to new generations. Every we ll-to-do household in Marrakech has a dada: a woman from Sub-Saharan Africa who
I can see the saffron harvest up close. In fact, during the private tour, led by the director of the saffron farm,
runs the house and functions, thanks to her preternatural culinary skills, as a living tutelary spirit of the kitchen.
visitors not only learn how to make saffron tea, but also gain a new appreciation of this precious spice, which
Clifford Wright, the noted food writer, tells of a recipe for bastilla (a quintessentially Moroccan pigeon pie), which urges the reader to let a dada prepare the dish. Therefore, Fabrizio found Aziza, the new restaurant's
is a key ingredient in many Moroccan recipes. Another Moroccan experience is a visit to an argan oil cooperative. Extracted from the nuts of the argan tree, a local plant, this oil, an extraordinary remedy for skin ai lments, has been hailed by the beauty industry as a true elixir of youth . Traditionally, women, who have mastered the arduous extraction process, run these cooperatives.
first dada, who taught at the cooking school, assisted by the establishment's, indispensable interpreters,
A visit to a local winery wi ll not disappoint the connoisseur. In this part of the world, viniculture had already
Wafaa and Mohammed. A new dada, Fatiha, joined
been established in Roman times, and growers have been taking advantage of the unique soil and climate for
Fabrizio's staff in 2001. Fatiha, had learned the art
centuries. While Morocco produces a wide variety of wines, red wines, notably Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon,
of cooking from her mother, one of the dadas at the
seem predominant. By no means an afterthought, wine is part of the complete Moroccan experience. After a day
pasha's court.
of meandering around the souks, a Gris de Gerrouane is pure delight.
Fabrizio's realm now includes a new restaurant, Les
There are many other wonders to explore. A certified guide will take you on a tour of the city's monuments,
Trois Saveurs, which serves dishes from three culinary
private gardens, and riads etc. And I want to take this opportunity to thank the guide who introduced me to
traditions: Moroccan, European, and Asian. At Les Trois
La Maison Arabe, Moulay Youssef El Alaoui lsmai li. My guide, my close friend, without whom our Moroccan
Saveurs, chef Slim Ben-Chahla works hard to sa tisfy
adventures would never have been possible.
a clientele searching for new culinary experiences. Indeed , Fabrizio intends to satisfy the entire spectrum of food aficionados, from the restaurant-goer who cherishes tradition, to a more adventuresome patron, who expects pleasant surprises . There is no such
Words, no matter how refined or sophisticated, fail to capture the inimitable essence of La Maison Arabe. What happens at this exquisite place simply cannot be explained. Whenever I think of the addition, I can almost see the Bab Ooukkala Mosque, which, at this particular spot, dominates the viewer's field of vision; and what an extraordinary picture it is: the mosque's green tiles reflecting natural light, in all its variegated splendor, from dawn to dusk.
thing as disappointment at La Maison Arabe. Remembering one of the pools, which a 2009 press release apt ly describes as a "liquid Berber ca rp et," I I know, upon entering the realm of La Maison Arabe, 1111 I I
MAISON l\lli\rli;
LA MA ISON ARABE I 105
feel transported to an infinite dream world . For me , the existence of La Maison Arabe repre se nts the promise of a re spite from the press ures, literal and metaphysical, of everyday life on this planet. In this garden of many delights, where each pleas ure- a siesta by the poo l, a perfect meal on the patio, in the rosy light of a summer morning, or under the starry heavens-i s a sy nesthetic experience, I can enjoy the memory of a recent piano recital at La Maison Arabe, courtesy of a splendid concert se ries under Fabrizio Ru spoli and L'Association des Amis de la Musique de Marrakech's patronage, or, stepping out of the confines of time and space, listen to the music of the spheres.
Annie fleminway is t/Je avt/Jor of over lilieen boolrs. S/Je teaches literature, creative writing andtranslation, on site and online, at !Vew Yorlr University.
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Jn the sheltering shade of fig and olive trees in our Private Casbah Gardens, Marrakech, with its urban hustle and bustle, is a forgotten world.
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Our cooking workshops The legendary restaurant at La Maison Arabe today offers cooking workshops designed for the amateur and professional alike. The workshops are conducted by a dada (traditional Moroccan cook). Small groups of maximum 10 participants work alongside a translator (Arabic/English/French), using easy-to-use modern equipment found in everyday kitchens. At the end of each workshop, participants dine on the meal they have prepared. At a typical half-day workshop, one learns to prepare an appetizer and a main dish, or a main dish and dessert.
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"There's nothing to see", she explained. I was taken aback for a moment by the significance of what she'd said, then I realized that it fitted logically into my other observations of life in Morocco. Much here seems to
La Maison Arabe, a Scent Memory
cotton, linen or silk wh ich provides coo l, elegant clothing perfectly suited to the climate and lifestyle. Moroccan
by Carl Michael George
design, with its lilting calligraphy depicting suras from the Quran, the intricate scrollwork, plasterwork, and
be simpler, without ostentation. The jalabiya that almost everyone wears, consists simp ly of two pieces of
mosaic tiles seen in wor ld class hotels and public buildings throughout the city and in riads - the traditional Moroccan houses with interior gardens - instills quietude and When I think of Marrakech I see the shimmering lavender Atlas Mountains towering to the east, shielding this stylish city from the undulating dunes, torpid heat and blinding sand storms of the vast Sahara, the largest desert on earth. I see a bustling city with wide, elegant boulevards and lush parks, warm, embracing people, an ancient medina and souk, and ch ic cafes everywhere. I see muted palettes of cream, rosy pink, pale green, cha lk blue, ye llow, white and terracotta, a wide blue sky mottled with clouds and sun light that is so intense it sucks away the shadows, like a vampire.
contemplation . Here, French sophistication in politesse, protocol and all things cu linary fuse seam less ly with Berber and Arabic observance of social mores and a refined sense of decorum. There are other rich cultural blends: the elegant, wide boulevards; medians planted with lush vegetation; the logically planned and
How many times did I get lost in the souk, try as I might to post visual markers: a shop front piled with jewe l
perfectly maintained parks; the leisure ly outdoor restaurants
toned rugs, a colorful striped awning, the craggy face of a vendor. But it was hopeless. The medina is a shape
that serve excellent cafe au lait as well as sweet mint tea and
shifter, a trickster with a wicked sense of humor. Ibrahim , the all-knowing concierge at La Maison Arabe told
delicate pastries, both French and Moroccan. The perfect mix
me one hot afternoon as we amb led through the labyrinth, "You wi ll never know the medina, never! I've lived
is in both cultures' aspect for food and ingredients, especially
all my life in the medina and sti ll, I am sometimes lo st."
the subt le mix of spices and herbs and the time-honored traditions of food preparation by the dada, a woman trained
Here, time does not succumb to the whims or demands of the day's business. One listens to the gentle flapping of sheets drying in the wind, the plaintive wai l of a pushcart vendor and the muezzin's call to prayer to mark the
in the intricacies and secrets of Moroccan cu isine - a cuisine wh ich, over the centuries, has been subject to Berber, Moorish, Mediterranean, Jewish and Arabic influences.
passage of time . In Morocco, non-Muslims are not allowed into mosques - an unbreachable rule. I remember one morning saying to a friend how I longed to go into one mosque in particular, one of the oldest in the city.
The French word "sillage" is used to describe the trail of a scent left by a perfume, like the wake of a ship .
She explained that inside, Moroccan mosques were very simp le structures, mostly unadorned.
Moroccan cui sine has its own special si llage - a heady blend of the country's famous saffron from Talouine, mint, turmeric, ginger and olives from Meknes, oranges, lemons, raisins and dates from Fez, all slowly cooked with fre sh
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LA MA ISON ARABE j 127
r vegetables and meats in the traditional earthenware tagine. This
sunlight pierced the carved and scro lled fretwork of the window shutters creating intricately shifting patterns on
ambrosial fragrance, particularly evident in Marrakech's Djemaa
the tadelakt plaster wal ls. I drifted off to sleep to the scent of lemon and orange blossoms, cumin, allspice, rose
el Fna square, one of the largest public plazas and marketplaces
petals and jasmine flowers - dreaming, as I follow the si llage.
in the Arab world, wends its way through the streets and all eys of the souk, into the courtyards and hallways of riads, enticing visitors to follow, whi le tantalizing the senses. Delicate pairings
Carl Michael 6eorge is an artist and filmmal