Microgreens - Intense Hydroponic Grows [2 ed.]

Citation preview

Once again, my wife Gina was critical in editing and proofing the second installment of IHG. She's still here putting up with my stubborn ass. I'm not going to ask why.

❖

Cover Art by my grandson Joel Dennis. Original art on the last page.

❖

This edition is dedicated to the followers and growers of IHG. You're the best.

© 2021 by Brent Montgomery, All Rights Reserved.

PREFACE Hey everyone, I'm Brent, and I live in Central Arkansas! There will be little fluff within these pages. It won't draw you into some magical land of feel-goodedness. When you finish reading the text, you might feel anxious and wonder if you can grow microgreens. You can. Consider this book more of an instruction manual. I tire of the formalities of writing. It's exhausting and a deterrent to getting what I want to say out to the public. As a writer, my main goal is to impart information that will allow you to grow exactly as I do—step-by-step. If I read a book similar to this one, I would flip through the pages looking for the specific information I wanted to know, gleaning from it what I need. It's because my experience is not a beginner's experience. And yeah, I'd skip over a lot of stuff I'd eventually make my way back to when I was ready. Hey, I can admit I'm impatient at times—a skip-aheader. :O) My approach to the book's layout considers it all. I want it to be a simple, easy to understand experience for the beginner or expert. If you have to read about Brent's life-story, between the good bits of information, heck, you might miss the point or even forget the point altogether because it's been too many dang sentences since the last measure of good information. Let's just call that stuff distraction, and if you want to know about me, email me and ask. I'll write a book just for you because I like talking about myself. I'm my favorite story. Ok, maybe a sentence or two. :O) You're going to see a big-nosed, happy text smiley face expression within my book. It's a leftover before emoticons became the rage and just one of the things I do. It's letting you know I'm smiling when I type it, intending to impart a light tone. This

2

stuff doesn't have to be serious. It’s certainly not to me. Let’s have fun! All-in-all, I know you have to be able to read and make sense of what I'm writing, so I'm going to go through the process of writing well enough that it's not a distraction, I hope. Be warned, skip-aheaders, I might try to be cute as I write, and you might miss some jewels. The bottom line, you can do this. I've helped many beginners. Grow big with Intense Hydroponic Grows, a style now coined "IHG" by those growing this way!

3

Table of Contents What are Microgreens? ................................................... 5 Growing in the "Assembly" .............................................. 8 Use of "Harmfuls" .......................................................... 13 Grow Area and Scaling Up ............................................. 16 Lighting, Timers, & Pumps ............................................. 22 Trays ................................................................................. 29 Screens............................................................................. 34 Bubblers ........................................................................... 38 Covers ............................................................................... 53 Domes ............................................................................... 56 Hydroponic Growing........................................................ 62 Seeds! ............................................................................... 70 Fighting Fungus ............................................................... 82 Harvesting & Packaging .................................................. 90 Let’s Grow Something! ................................................... 99 Quick-Reference Chart ............................................... 120 How Can I Eat Microgreens? ...................................... 124 Support ........................................................................... 129

4

Chapter 1 What are Microgreens? Definition

Microgreens are immature plants eaten as vegetables.

A

literal translation "micro," meaning "extremely small," and "greens," meaning "the leaves of certain plants eaten as vegetables," is an excellent start in how I settled on a definition. It almost perfectly fits how I want to define it. Throughout the text, I will refer to microgreens grown in the Assembly as "grows," and the plants in each grow as microgreens or "micros." Some popular references separate "baby leaf" or "shoots" into other categories. I think it's more important to capture the style of growing vs. getting bogged down in terminology, but let's discuss briefly. You may hear some limit microgreens to plants grown to the cotyledon stage and harvested before the first true leaves form. Cotyledon leaves are the first two (dicot), or one (monocot), small leaves emerging on most micros. They are also called "seed leaves." The leaves following cotyledon leaves are known as "true leaves" because they will look similar to the mature plant leaves. If you lock yourself into harvesting before true leaf formation, it’s often

5

unreasonable and limiting. There is a great value found in the true leaf. Some may refer to "baby leaf" as small plants grown past the cotyledon stage but harvested before they become a fully mature plant. So, to them, baby leaf means smaller true leaves harvested while plants are still relatively immature. This book won't cover baby-leaf grows, although it's as simple as letting them grow longer in many cases. You may also hear the term "shoots," often referred to when speaking of corn, beans, and peas. It's mostly because of how they grow (taller) or potentially because they're beyond the cotyledon stage. Definitions abound. For me, baby-leaf and shoots fall into the microgreens arena. In the book, I'll refer to everything as microgreens (or micros) due to how they're grown. In the end, whatever term you want to use won't change your approach in your grows. Semantics. Let's address something I often hear with microgreens and get it out of the way. It is relatively prevalent some microgreen growers will top (cut the tops off) micros and wait for them to regrow. In reality, one can harvest most plants more than once if you know how and if you don't cut below the cotyledon leaves. The main negative issue in topping micros for additional harvests is time. The longer you grow, in the Assembly or in grow media, the more opportunity for something wrong to happen like a disease. Secondly, another negative is diminishing return on secondary and tertiary harvests compared to starting over. I prefer consecutive grows instead. It's more advantageous over time and less frustrating. 6

For the home grower, and generally speaking, in my opinion, the value of microgreens is the speed of their growth and the nutritional benefits. Research shows immature versions of plants are denser in nutrients than their mature counterparts. For example, a cup of broccoli microgreens will have much more nutrition than a cup of mature broccoli florets. If you cycle your grows, you can generate pound after pound of food every single week. It's pretty amazing when harvest time comes. It's obvious; microgreens are not as versatile, and for many, not as appealing as maturely-harvested plants. It's the reason it took me so long to get into microgreens. Here's the thing: There are tons of uses with more recipes coming out every day because of gaining popularity. I have mostly used them as additions to traditional dishes—soups, bread, and salads. I have videos on some uses to spark your imagination and some recipes and ideas further on in the book. Should I Grow Them? If you've bought my book, you're probably pretty committed to growing microgreens. Why not set yourself up for success? Until you gain experience, absorb mine as explained here in the book, follow my examples closely, get the right equipment, learn the concepts, and get in the right frame of mind. If you half-ass it, you're not going to be a happy camper. The reward is the prize at the end of the grow—beautiful micros of abundance!

7

Chapter 2 Growing in the "Assembly"

T

he Assembly is a set of parts and pieces used to create an ideal growing environment and maximize the potential for growing microgreens hydroponically. It is the heart of Intense Hydroponic Grows (IHG). I'm going to talk about each of the pieces coming up, but I wanted to give a visual you can correlate to the term "Assembly," and the pictures coming should help. When I speak about it, hopefully, it is what you'll remember.

Tall-Growing Micros

8

Cover, 2.5” Mesh Tray, Adapter, Bubbler And Reservoir

All Other Micros

9

Cover, Screen, 1" Mesh Tray, Bubbler, and Reservoir The 3D Experience! You are reading the second edition of my book on microgreens. Many readers have told me watching my videos before reading the first edition allowed them to hear me just as if I'm narrating it for you right now. I'm not sure if that's a good thing! Can you hear my voice right now? If not, maybe you just haven't watched enough videos, eh? It might be worth that dynamic 3D book experience. Bonus, no charge. :O) Prevention Over Cure Do not get into the habit of saving your grows! I mean it. Your approach must be to learn well enough to do it right from the get-go. Saving a grow is a waste of time, and it will deter many of you from moving forward out of frustration. Yes, a couple of lost grows can get the best of us. The worst part: Please don't call me names in your frustration. :O) If

10

not most of you, I know many will try and save grows. You should let them go. You are going to fail. We all fail, but failure is an opportunity to learn, or in our case, fine-tune our growing habits to ensure the next one is better or at least improved. If you do not fail, you are amazing. Please give yourself a bow. Do it in front of a mirror, though, for more impact. :O) If you ever fail, and you've researched the text without a lightbulb moment of understanding, give me, or others in the group, a shout. We can work it out. Hey, that rhymed. Yep, there's a group. That tidbit is coming in the final chapter. You must move towards making prevention a habit. If you make a mistake, intentional or not, try not to do it twice. Start with what I'm doing here, add your own best practices as you progress, and improve. Washing & Sterilizing I created the Assembly for a controlled, indoor environment. The temperature needs to be consistent for best results, power available for pumps, a level spot for your Assemblies, and air circulation. But, did you know an ideal environment also keeps disease at bay? Indoors, all that is typically required to keep equipment clean and fight disease, is washing it all as if you're washing dishes—old school, not in the dishwasher. Still, except for the dome, all Assembly components can go into the dishwasher, including screens. If you detect disease, spray or wipe everything, including grow room surfaces and equipment, with a bleach solution ratio of ½-cup bleach per gallon of water. Let sit for at least 30 minutes. Rinse equipment. Let

11

the growing area merely dry. The bleach will dissipate. Always use bleach in a well-ventilated area! Are you ready to grow? If you're growing outside, you begin to lose control. The variables outdoor wind-carried disease and pests can bring range from barely manageable to a nightmare. You don't know, and that gamble may lead to most of your time mitigating disease and insects. If you must grow outdoors or in less than ideal conditions, wash and sterilize everything—equipment and all surfaces areas—after every grow. Consider barriers to help where possible—walls, fencing, or plastic. Keeping your equipment and growing site in order is the first step to prevention. If you take care of it, it will take care of you.

12

Chapter 3 Use of "Harmfuls"

T

oxicity occurs in everything, everywhere, and with differing degrees. For simplicity, let's call it all "harmfuls" regardless of how much they can harm us. Harmfuls can be chemicals, plastics, metals, foams, liquids, or any interaction with anything else, creating a gas or by-product. My list of harmfuls is understated, but I think we all do a pretty darn good job filtering them. In filtering, we each come to conclusions, thoughts, and opinions on the impact of harmfuls, and what we're willing to live with or not. We further grow those thoughts or ideas as life goes on. We also know we live globally-saturated with perceived and actual harmfuls. Most harmfuls have had phenomenal plusses for society, and yet they're still a massive issue for our planet's health and future as they eventually become a waste. Where do you draw the line? Really, about all you can do is draw it where you feel comfortable. I'm in the middle with how I regard harmfuls, but I certainly understand and respect how each individual feels on the subject. I know I will likely reference something in the book you think is not for you, and I'll probably offend someone, somehow, but I honestly cannot do what I do, share what I share, or write what I write without harmfuls in some form. If you take offense, please use the offensive part as a guide to try something else. I want to be serious for a second here, and I cannot stress this enough: I cannot take your 13

responsibility away from you. Do your due diligence before making decisions. It's such a gift and a significant part of having freedoms. Consider how you feel about the following and adjust to your comfort levels, finding alternatives as desired. Plastics The toxicity of plastic, especially with leaching, is one of the most common comment-related concerns on my YouTube channel. The type of plastic, what chemicals make up the plastic, plastic fabrication, how temperatures affect plastic, and plastic deterioration are concerns. I use what is considered food-grade materials, whenever possible, from a reputable source. Bleach Chlorine bleach is fantastic but plagued by negativity. The word alone carries a negative connotation for many. Oh yes, I get it, but if used correctly, bleach will turn failure into success. Bleach, created through salt-water electrolysis, is an effective and inexpensive disinfectant. It is used in healthcare, daycare, schools, the food industry, and homes worldwide to prevent disease and kill bacterial harmfuls. After application, bleach will break down into salt and water quickly. Please, do not ever mix bleach with any other chemical. The reactions of bleach with other chemicals can create unforeseen toxic gases, liquids, or bi-products. An alternative to bleach is a more powerful hydrogen peroxide formulation.

14

Grow Media I refer to "grow media" as anything seeds are grown in or on—soil, coco coir, peat moss, potting mix, compost, fiber mats, hemp, burlap, etc.—besides screens. It’s a huge issue for me. Using grow media can introduce harmfuls or provide a haven for harmfuls, especially anaerobic bacteria. It's one of the primary reasons I chose not to use grow media, especially compost! The various organic grow media cannot carry a full soil web in a small contained area. Trying to incorporate the symbiotic processes found in nature is a guess at best, especially in such a short growing period. The best grow media is rarely sterile, and if you use them, consider you're growing not only microgreens but also bacteria and likely disease. Plant Absorption On the subject of micros and harmfuls, it is certainly worth talking about plant reactions to harmfuls because they're what you're eating. I mean, most of you likely don't care if you touch plastic or potting mix but do probably care if you ingest harmfuls absorbed by your plants. I've researched plant absorption of various harmfuls. I suggest you do it as well. Plants have a remarkable ability to filter out most harmfuls. Furthermore, they use and need elements like metals and even chemicals like chlorine. So, select and use your harmfuls carefully and have some faith in the plant's ability to filter them out as well. Ultimately, you do you!

15

Chapter 4 Grow Area and Scaling Up

H

ow elaborate do you want to get? You could create the simplest of setups or a commercial-producing machine. A big part of being successful is figuring out what you want out of this venture, setting goals, and dedicating a grow area. Everything in one place helps make your growing experience enjoyable and easy. Whether it's a small setup in the corner of the garage or the entire garage converted into a grow room, the concepts are the same. For those growing one or two Assemblies only, you can plug those into any imaginable setup that meets your needs, but for others, there are options! Shifting the Paradigm You may have to shift how you feel microgreens should be grown. If all you see is how others do it on YouTube, it may "feel right" to do it that way as well. Otherwise, why are they doing it? And, they're doing well enough for sure. Hint: They're doing it because they see others do it. It's called a paradigm or a typical way of doing things. But, I see the paradigm shift already, and I hope I had a small part to play in it. :O) Space is the critical component due to a plant's need for light. A grow needs a flat area to take advantage of full light, but that space doesn't have to take up much real estate. Instead of an 8-foot by 10-foot (80 square feet) crowded space of 1020s side-by-side, consider utilizing space vertically. Two racks measuring 2-foot by 4-foot can

16

be the same space on a much smaller piece of real estate (16 square feet), and it's much easier to walk around. Racks Regardless of how much you want to grow, racks are ideal because the Assembly is modeled off the standard 1020 garden tray. A 2foot deep (ish), 4-foot wide, and 6foot tall rack is relatively standard and will provide room for five shelves, each holding four Assemblies, for a total of 20 Assemblies, using a vertical concept. I recommend going vertical when growing multiples; you can find options at your local store or online. Tent Kit A small apartment or discreet grower? You may choose to utilize a grow tent. While these may have been initially used for cannabis and still are, to a great extent, they are also great for microgreens. They come packaged with almost everything needed, including a dimmable light, an odor filter, a fan to circulate air, a bottom that will catch water should it spill, and importantly, reflective walls to maximize light. Easy zipper access too! My favorite part is keeping it in my spare bedroom closet, where I 17

keep the closet doors closed. No one knows it's there. Yep, I got one. Featured Exhibit Some folks are creative, and you may have a creative bug. For example, it is conceivable to have a grow feature in your house. Thinking off the top of my head, maybe you buy a unique plant rack where you surround your microgreens with other plants stowing the pump and airlines from sight. Perhaps you have a couple grows with some creative lighting accenting some fragrant basil and cilantro along with your broccoli. Perhaps you lightly rub the tops of those micros to throw scent into the air as you pass by. Maybe? There's a lot of fragrance to be had with some micros. I'll admit, every day I go outside and, if there's a mature grow going, I'll rub on them a bit. Maybe I'll say they're looking awesome out loud even though there's no one there. Don't smile; you're going to do it. Now, look at you creating your unique interactive feature in your home. :O) Commercial or Large Production Oh yeah, I've thought about this too. Take everything mentioned and multiply it. It's just that simple. You'll need a bigger space, more racks, and more of your time. I tend to grow larger than single-family use but smaller than a market production. Utilizing just one rack, I still have leftover space to grow lettuce and garden starts. The amount of output from one rack is astonishing. Harvest-to-Light Rotation Your form of stacking can be what I call harvest-to-light. It's a form of rotation. If it takes broccoli ten days to harvest, a 18

rack can quickly cycle 16 grows every ten days using just four of the five shelves. If each grow nets 2 pounds, that's 32 pounds of broccoli microgreens every ten days. Now, if you add a removable shelf on top of each shelf, you're doubling shelf space to 32 grow spots. Sticking with broccoli, move your first grow to the top of the added shelf after the dome is removed. It’s closer to the lighting. Start a second grow, placed directly under it. The bottom grow is in the dark for its first five days, while the one just above it is uncovered and growing in the light for its final five days till harvest. That's the concept of Harvest-to-light. It reduces light waste and maximizes shelf space. Once the top broccoli grow is harvested five days later, uncover the bottom Assembly, move it to the top shelf close to the lights, and start another Assembly of broccoli underneath. Your cycle is now cut to a rotation every five days instead of ten; therefore, the 32pound example we mentioned above turns into 64 pounds every ten days. How simple to buy a shelf to put on a shelf, eh? Set It & Forget It So, I hope you've shifted your paradigms and are getting excited with me. Lock in your thought process with a "set it 19

and forget it" mentality. When you place a grow on a rack or wherever you grow, it's going to pretty much sit there until harvest for most of us. Once you read the "Let's Grow Something" chapter and start a grow, it'll be clear you'll spend your time lifting off domes to spray antifungal, in the beginning, to lifting the mesh tray to top up nutrient water after removing the dome. That will be it for the most part. You can spend an hour a day running a hefty market-grow operation—one person. Of course, harvesting, packaging, and distribution are a different story, but then you're smiling your big butt or small butt or whatever sized happy butt you have because you know it's almost payday! It's not hard, and you can certainly do it. Control the Environment You have to give microgreens a controlled area, or you're going to struggle. Your temperature needs to be consistent most of the time—70-80° F (21-27° C) range. If the majority of the time you're in the correct temperatures, you can dip lower for shorter periods, but keep the lowest temps above 60° F (16° C) and the highest below 80° F (27° C) if you can. Everything grows well in these temperatures. Somewhat colder temperatures are doable, but they also slow plant development, making your times till harvest longer. If your temps get too high for too long, you're going to have all kinds of issues, from rampant fungus to dying plants. Keep your area ventilated; fans circulating air help. I use an overhead ceiling fan most of the time with a small directed fan once I take the dome off of the microgreens. Air, moving and refreshing, helps keep humidity equalized. Your primary concern shouldn't be too problematic with 20

moisture unless there are extended periods of high humidity coupled with higher temperatures. It's a recipe for growing fungus. I had purchased a dehumidifier and used it for some time, but I found simple air circulation and keeping your temperatures within boundaries is sufficient. Inside the house would be a perfect climate for most folks.

21

Chapter 5 Lighting, Timers, & Pumps

A

bout half the time, I grow microgreens in the dark. Some of it is because the plants may take a while to germinate and grow to a decent height, but I do it mainly to encourage some leggy growth and delay the onset of cotyledon leaf growth. What does it do? Well, it increases the overall mass (weight) of your harvest. In other words, you get more out of your grow. Aside from nutrient benefits, the weightiest and cleanest product is my ultimate goal when growing microgreens. Lighting is essential, but microgreens aren't fussy. Still, we want to grow microgreens as quickly and as beautifully as possible. Lighting Microgreens are vegetative growth, and we don't grow them to maturity. Since we're eating baby plants, the lighting need isn't as complicated as adult counterparts fruiting or flowering. Micros typically need only "white" light. I've found light spectrums, often referred to as "daylight" or "super bright," work well—typically 5000K to 6500K. "K" refers to Kelvin and is related to the brightness scale. For perspective:

22

Should you use incandescent, fluorescent, high pressure, halogen, metal halide, or LED? Heck, I don't even have experience with many of them, but I tend to stop when my needs are met. I've used fluorescent and LED primarily. I ended up with, and suggest, LED lighting because it's much more inexpensive to purchase than it used to be. They use minimal wattage, last longer than other forms of lighting, and generate a minimal amount of heat. You would do perfectly well with simple LED "shop-type" white lights or even LED bulbs used for your home as long as it's in the range suggested above. Or, you could go the more expensive route and buy the newer "multi-white" LED lights on the market today. I mention a good, next-level affiliate in the final chapter. Getting away from the red/blue lights of old, manufacturers find better spectrum combinations these days. How do I use LEDs? Well, on a basic rack. To the bottom of my rack shelves and pointed to the shelf below it, I affixed seven each 22-watt 4-foot "shop" LED white lights. I alternated 5000K and 65000K. The lights are right at 14 inches above the micro's canopy. You could decrease to four 23

total of either spectrum or a combination of two each, but I wouldn't go below four. I've grown microgreens, lettuce, cabbage, and garden starts in my setup, and they thrive very well. The designs are changing. My lights are a single line of LED chips of so-so quality. They're getting better—more rows, improved LED chips, and different configurations. Keep all this in mind and adapt to your needs. I'm not sure you could get too bright with micros, but you can be too dim. Please don't skimp on lighting, but don't overthink it either! :O) Timers Time your lighting to create your grow's day and night. How long the timer powers off and on is referred to as a cycle. How you cycle your timers is a preference. You could go anywhere from 12 hours a day up to 24 hours a day. Anecdotally, I feel like 16 hours a day is just right. This way, I'm maximizing plant growth while giving them a nighttime break. I don't have any particular science to back up the need for a break, but I think following Mother Nature, where we can, seems appropriate. Too little light will delay finishing your grow, and your plants will look malnourished with small cotyledons. One consideration is a "quick-green" where you grow your micros entirely in the dark until 1 to 2 days before you want to harvest, then hit them with light 24

24/7 until harvest. Hey, I've done it. Don't overthink timing. This stuff isn't complicated—one time on and one time off every day. You can use any cycle that fits your needs, but read the capability before buying the timer. Some timers can't cycle enough times per day, which is a factor with pumps especially. Pumps When I say “pumps,” I'm referring to air pumps, not water pumps. Why use a pump? The Assembly uses an air pump to send bubbles and oxygen into the reservoir and ensure a healthy grow. I find you won't need to run your air pump continuously, and in fact, overdoing it could be detrimental. I recommend 30 minutes on and 30 minutes off 24/7 for the bubbler. That equates to 24 each 30-minute cycles a day. Sure, you could run the pump more, but consider what cycling the pump on and off does. What happens in a cycle? The popping bubbles send moisture upwards, keeping the seeds pretty wet and the closed Assembly humid. Water will then collect to form a barrier wall over the seeds. The pressure the bubbles generate can lift a tray upwards, so a lot of moisture is being shot upwards. It's the pressure that penetrates upwards and keeps the seeds wet. If it's too long, a wet wall could drown the seeds and kill the grow or reduce germination. When the pump is off, gravity can kick in, and water will slowly fall back into the reservoir, letting oxygen return to the seeds, but the humidity in the dome will help keep the seeds moist until the next cycle. Think of it all like rain falling on a garden or a watering can pour onto a house plant. The falling water penetrates the soil and is absorbed 25

by it. When done, the soil wicks water away first by equalizing into the surrounding soil. When saturated, gravity overtakes the wicking capability pulling water down away from the surface to run off by the path of least resistance while at the same time pulling air into the soil to oxygenate the seeds. The wicking capability of soil will retain the moisture for a while, giving it to plant roots taking it or to evaporation. If the ground remains saturated for too long, most seeds will suffocate. If the soil gets too dry, the seeds will die. Unlike earth, plastic in the Assembly won't hold moisture as long, so cycles have to be more frequent. It's kind of remarkable how the manipulation of the bubbles, through a timer, can help ensure the seeds get what they need without drying out or drowning. A pump on a timer does this for you! You may be asking, "How big of a pump do I need?" The answer is roughly 15 liters of air per minute per Assembly. That's how air pumps are rated. As an example, using a "commercial" air pump rated at 60 watts, you'll see something like 60 L/min or 60-LPM for roughly four Assemblies @ 15 watts of power each. You need a bit more control when using a single pump to supplement multiple 26

Assemblies. Most bigger pumps come with a manifold—an air-divider with individual ¼-inch valves that can be rotated from fully open to fully closed. You need this piece to ensure even distribution of air among all Assemblies. Some limiting factors occur with the overall setup. For example, Assemblies further from the pump require a longer airline, and those airlines have more resistance than the shorter lines of Assemblies closer to the pump. The shorter lines will receive more air first because air travels the path of least resistance. Air doesn't understand what you want it to do, so make it listen. :O) To even it out, you can use your valves and partially close off the shorter lines while leaving the longer lines fully open. The bubbler valve, we'll talk about later, is great for fine-tuning. Other factors affecting air equality, where you’ll need to compensate, include the reservoir depth, hole size in the bubbler, the use of a pump that's too small, a poor-quality pump, and lots of Assemblies. It's not hard to dial it in; play with the valves until all of your Assemblies have an even distribution of bubbles. After you get it dialed in, it’s rarely a factor. Air, escaping all holes, should make the reservoir look like a rolling boil. Each bubbler has a valve attached to close when storing the line or temporarily manipulating the specific Assembly. More on that later. 27

All pumps are not created equal. Some are noisy! So, if a loud sound is an issue, consider the more expensive yet quieter pumps. Some might not perform as well as they're rated—grain of salt. On a previous page, there are two pumps I use or recommend based on their popularity in the Facebook group. In the final chapter, I’ll discuss where to find all these parts, pieces, and product.

28

Chapter 6 Trays

Q

uality equipment is a significant factor in growing IHG. The way I grow requires, at times, lifting a tray full of nutrient water. You can't do it with a flimsy tray, and if you can, it won't last long. Plus, flimsy trays, full of water, are almost impossible to keep the liquid contained. Keep in mind a cracked reservoir tray could create a mess, at the very least, and could lead to the loss of a grow, especially if you're out of town a day or two. Oh, yeah, with IHG, you can go out of town for the weekend! Sturdy trays are essential. On the other hand, less robust materials are quite acceptable to test the waters if you want to see if this is for you or are on a tight budget. If you go all in, I recommend the heavier-duty stuff. Reservoir Tray The "reservoir tray" is a work-horse, heavy-duty standard 1020 garden tray that holds a reservoir of nutrient water. Your bottom tray needs a capacity of up to 1.5 gallons of water, which is about 12 pounds. It means short-sided trays are out. It should have a thick top to support the dome and the pressures of onehanded maneuvering. Most importantly, it supports the entire Assembly's

29

weight—I grow in pounds, not ounces. Sunflowers, at full harvest, can weigh 5 pounds and peas even more. Add it, the weight of the bubbler, the adapter, the weight of the nutrient water, and you're nearing 15 pounds. All-in-all, a thin tray won't work or work for very long. Mesh Trays The mesh tray is a bridge to elevate your micros above your reservoir. They must be strong enough to support the weight of the grow, the cover, and the dome. These trays do not serve the same function as what other microgreen growers refer to as "trays with holes." In their case, it serves primarily as a drain but also as a housing for their grow media, usually soil, potting mix, or mats. I keep asking myself, "Why use that stuff?" In IHG, the mesh tray alone is the growing platform for large seed like sunflowers, beans, and peas, but it also serves as the support for two sizes of screen covering your medium- and smaller-sized seed growing needs. Between the mesh tray and the screens, all manner of seed can be grown as microgreens. Besides weight support, a mesh tray gives easy access to the reservoir. Roots grow between the screens and the tray, dipping into the reservoir to obtain water and nutrients. Lastly, once roots reach down, each plant gains stability, allowing them to grow upwards towards the light without falling over. The type of microgreens grown will determine which tray you use. The most commonly used mesh tray will be your 1-inch tall mesh tray. I call it a "short tray," referring to the side-height of the tray. The short tray utilizes the small and medium screens—we'll discuss screens in the next chapter—used to 30

grow every kind of seed that falls through the mesh tray alone. Essentially, this includes all of them except for the bigger seed—sunflower, beans, peas, etc. The 2.5-inch mesh tray, I'll refer to as the "tall tray," supports growing directly without the need for a screen. The tall tray is used vs. the short tray because taller micros are typically more difficult to corral. Sunflower seed, for example, when planted densely, will try to sprawl outside the sides of the tray. When the plants are shorter and in the blackout period, the dome can go back onto the tall tray, but not so easily if using a short tray. You'll spend way too much time trying to get them back under the dome if using a short tray. Additionally, when the dome comes off, the plants are taller by that point, and sunflowers will nearly lie sideways on a short tray, making handling difficult. A tall tray constrains them much better and allows Assemblies to sit right next to each other with less fuss detangling the two. That extra inch or so of height, in a taller tray, is very much worth it!

31

Adapter Tray An adapter tray or "adapter" is a tray used to help the tall tray only rest onto the bubbler and over the reservoir. Without an adapter, the tall tray will nest into the bubbler and be full of reservoir nutrient water. The tall tray needs to sit above the reservoir, like the short tray, and the adapter makes it happen. The adapter is a modified 1-inch tray, and it's easy to make. To construct, take a jigsaw or a Dremel tool with a plastic-cutting bit, and remove all the center material of a standard short tray, leaving one set of holes. See the picture, and it'll be crystal clear. Dealing with Warped Trays You may encounter warped trays from the manufacturer. It's usually on the bottom where your screens rest. They're plastic, and they're nested or stacked at the manufacturer. You can use an inexpensive heat gun, warm one half of the tray at a time, and lay it on a flat surface. Immediately, stack something flat with weight over your heated area. It will keep the newly heated tray bottom flat until it cools. A couple of bricks, or a pan full of water, are examples. Repeat for the other half. I found it challenging to do the whole bottom of the tray and keep it hot enough to work. If it doesn't flatten enough, you may have to heat it longer than last time, but be careful not to overheat it, or it can

32

deform or melt. Also, be cautious with the tip of the heat gun. It gets scorching!

33

Chapter 7 Screens

T

he screens' purpose is to keep seeds from falling into the reservoir below and anchor the microgreen roots. Your screens must be both flexible and durable enough to handle the constant harvesting and cleaning. If you're going to grow several different types of micros, you'll need the correct screen size to correlate to seed size. I find two screen sizes are sufficient. Small Screen The small screen is used for the smallest of seeds, such as celery, amaranth, basil, cress, shiso, and lettuce. You'll need to get above 20/20 strands to ensure you can grow the smallest of small seeds. That's 20 strands per inch in one direction and 20 strands per inch perpendicular, creating a grid of very tiny square holes. My particular screen used is 25/27 strand with holes roughly .025-inch by .030-inch. Along with the strand count, the screen's thickness determines each hole's size and the screen's durability. The selection of the screen requires a balance between durability and providing enough opening for plant roots.

34

Medium Screen Many of you will use the medium screen most. It's for every type of microgreen seed that falls through the mesh tray but catches on it. That's how one can size the seed. If it doesn't fall through the mesh tray, then no screen is needed. If it falls through the mesh tray and the medium screen, then use the small screen. I determined which screen to use with this filtering method. If you're doing this test, make sure to shake the tray or tray/screen lightly because the seed may be right at the edge of two sizes. It may look ok, but agitation could lead to the seed falling through. In such a case, go smaller. Your more common seed for the medium screen is broccoli, cabbage, and radish. If you want a more extensive list, each microgreen expected screen size is in the Quick-Reference Chart, Chapter 16. You can also head on over to my YouTube channel, then to my microgreens playlist, load up a video for the microgreen you're trying to grow, and have a look. I usually reveal which screen I used. The medium screen size I settled on is 11 by 15 strands with holes .054-inch by .08-inch. History I want you to know the progression, from the screens I used in the beginning to what I use now, because some of you may naturally follow that path. This way, you're armed with a bit more information before making a decision. Initially, I grew on vinyl-coated fiberglass screening made for windows. I repurposed it for my initial testing. I quickly realized I wanted a less toxic screen and found a supplier who manufactured screening made of PVC-coated polyester. It had the Florida seal of approval for non-toxic materials stating uses like schools and hospitals. It sounded 35

like a good deal for my needs. Well, it was for about six months. As IHG caught on as a reasonable method, more folks were pressing the screens' safety issue. Ultimately, I found a product similar to what I use today, a polypropylene, certified for use with food and beverage screening material. The problem is the source I found initially only sold in bulk and charged a whole lot of duckies for shipping—way more than any other place I've ever seen. Some IHGers were quite frustrated with the shipping charges. It didn't take long before I was getting questions similar to, "Do you sell them? I only need a few." Long story short, I started buying in bulk and selling screens to folks in smaller numbers with reasonable shipping. Those requests ultimately led to my selling screens, Super Antifungal concentrate, microgreen kits, and lettuce kits. If you can't source adequate screening, please shoot me an email. When you source screens, and other materials in the book, you may find yourself at a crossroads of deciding between costly premium materials and others of lesser quality. I think it may help to consider why you're growing microgreens in the first place. All-in-all, you do you! :O) Cutting Screen to Size If you find screening material from a source other than me, it won't fit your short tray. The way to size your screen is to measure the tray's bottom with a ruler or measuring tape. For example, the tray I use is 9.5-inches by 19.75 inches. All I do to cut measurements along a straight edge— anything hard and straight—using a utility knife slowly. The utility knife will score whatever you cut the screen on, so choose wisely (board). All screening material I've ever used cuts easily. An alternative would be to take your 36

screening material and use a marker to outline the edges and cut with scissors. Durability The screens I use are intended for multiple uses. I often get asked, "How long do they last?" The answer is, "It depends." They are quite durable, but they can stretch, and they cut very easily with scissors or a knife. The material is the same as a dehydrator mesh material, only smaller. I have even washed them in the dishwasher. One of the mistakes I made, to ruin a screen, was using a knife too quickly while harvesting cutting an inch or so into it before I realized it. I now use scissors, slow down more, and don't mind not getting close to the screen material. Another time, I damaged the screen scraping over the top and caught a seed underneath it. In this case, I was using the hard, straight edge of a painting knife scraping too quickly. You can equate a painting knife to a rigid, plastic ruler if hard to imagine. I'd used it often before this particular time, but a wedged, hard beet seed made a small hole. If you're even somewhat careful, they'll last years without degrading. Rounded or Creased Screens Often, screens will be rounded, contorted, or creased from the supplier due to the manufacturing process or how packaged. If they don't flatten out to your satisfaction, you can place a damp hand towel on top of it, and using a clothes iron on the hottest setting, pass over it until it remains flat. It doesn't take too long. The damper the towel, the more steam and the faster it will flatten. Don't place the iron directly on the screens as it will melt!

37

Chapter 8 Bubblers

B

ubblers are where the magic happens! The purpose of the bubbler is to inject air into the reservoir. It is the most significant piece of the puzzle to the way I grow. It is critical to your overall success, and I'd recommend special attention when building them. The roots of each microgreen need water even if you do not use nutrients in the water. Oxygenated water is a crucial component to plant health. Simply, roots need oxygen. The bigger the reservoir, the more oxygenated water you can provide to sustain all those tiny micros' needs to grow the best they can. A more extensive reservoir also includes insurance against running out of water (weekend getaway), so it needs to be as full as possible. Oddly, the fuller the reservoir, the better the bubbler will perform, especially at the beginning of your grows. Typically, a reservoir will hold around 1.5 gallons of water. To be more specific, fill your reservoir to about ½-inch under the top of the mesh tray above it. Below is a completed bubbler.

38

Benefits of an Aerated Reservoir Air pumped into the reservoir does many things beneficial. Let's discuss them in a chronological "grow" order. In the very beginning, the bubbler injects air into the nutrient water, creating bubbles. The bubbles, as they pop, release moisture and humidity upward and throughout the Assembly. If set to the rolling boil mentioned previously, it keeps the seeds entirely damp. The bubbling action takes away the need to keep the seeds hydrated for proper germination. It's a pretty amazing effect I didn't expect when I first started. Now, it makes me more comfortable at the critical beginning stages before roots penetrate the screens and enter the nutrient water. So, firstly, it provides a tremendous seed-germinating atmosphere. Roots need oxygen to deliver water and nutrient to the plant. The bubbler's injected air is that oxygen. As roots and plants grow, they take oxygen out of the water. Water lacking oxygen can open up a can of worms, most notably disease. Typically, the plants will attempt to make air roots if the nutrient water's oxygen levels are insufficient. However, an Assembly is somewhat sealed, so the plants' ability to adapt is hindered by the super-humid environment wetting those potential air roots. As a result, plants could die. Another great reason to add oxygen is to prevent an anaerobic environment where bad bacteria will infect the microgreen roots with disease. You could change the water daily and attempt various root treatments, but it is such a pain in the backside. The easiest fix is to inject air and create an aerobic bacterial environment. The higher the 39

levels of beneficial bacteria created, the more it will suppress harmful bacteria, and the more plant roots thrive. If you're grossed out by bacteria of any form near your plants, I want you to know bacteria is everywhere and cannot be eliminated. It's actually in you right now. Plants have symbiotic needs with bacteria. I'm not an expert on everything plant-related, so I can't give you intricate details into the interactions of plant biology and the environment. Still, I know enough to be dangerous, as they say, or successful if you prefer. And, so can you. You don't have to have university degrees to do this stuff. Just know air battles disease, provides oxygen to roots for plant health, and the bubbler is your #1 tool at combating issues. Constructing the Bubbler I know, right? You finally get to make something! I made my initial bubbler-support out of ¾" PVC pipe. That bubbler served as both a bubbler and support for the tall tray, and it worked well. Many IHGers are using it as you read this. I have since moved on to what I feel is a more robust bubbler made of food-grade materials; however, I will leave the PVC bubbler-support construction in this book as an option. The tools and parts listed throughout the book are in my Amazon Store. I discuss the store and my affiliation with recommended sources in the last chapter. If you do not want to fabricate an Assembly, I have been selling them for some time now. I don't know how long I'll do it, but it certainly doesn't hurt to ask. My email is in the final chapter.

40

Parts Needed

Tools Needed

41

I noticed even distribution of air and more bubbles equate to better microgreen growth. More bubbles require more holes, and of course, more holes equate to the need for a more robust pump. The amount of wattage used by a larger pump is insignificant to me due to their low power draw. It may be to you as well, but if not, the older version bubblersupport may meet your needs having fewer holes, allowing the use of a smaller pump. A bubbler starts as the tall tray you use for large seeds. It's the same tray, but you will need to adapt it accordingly if you do not use the same tall tray. Using a ¼-inch drill bit, drill 24 holes in the tray, as shown in the picture. Each square has 7 by 10 tiny square holes. The drilled hole should be the 5th hole on the long side or 10-hole side. That 5th hole is the same on the whole bubbler. To drill, turn the tray upside down, place your bit tip in that 5th hole and drill it out. It should be effortless to ream the square into the larger ¼" hole. You'll quickly get the hang of it. The picture will show you the exact placement of all your drilled holes, but do not fall into the trap of drilling each hole the same.

42

The two middle rows of "squares" are different from the two outer rows of "squares." Again, please take a close look at the picture (my template) and drill accordingly. Take your time! :O) It's time to prepare the tray for ¼-inch polypropylene tubing, and it will mean the installation of 4inch zip ties next to every hole. Consider every non-drilled hole in a line along the long side of the tray a "row." Insert a zip tie next to your drilled hole in the rows above and below it starting and ending on the tray's bottom. Confusing? Well, look at the picture here for a clearer understanding. :O) Repeat next to every drilled hole. Now, you're ready to route your ¼-inch tubing. Cut a piece of tubing 7-feet, 4-inches long. Your tubing will be one continuous piece routed between the zip ties and cinched down. Before you tighten it all, do the routing first with loosely fastened zip ties. I'm going to show you some pictures for clarity to the text as we go. Starting on one outside row, engage your zip ties 43

leaving a loop large enough to put the tubing through. Push the tubing through every zip tie on that row. You'll notice that the tubing is directly over each drilled hole as it should be. Turning the corner, engage the loose zip ties again and loop through the second row. Turn the corner, continue the third row, and finally turn the corner for the fourth row. When complete with all four rows, the ends will be at the same end of the mesh tray, and none of the zip ties will be tight. Your zip ties must be loose because we need to orient the tubing to its beginning location before tightening the zip ties. Using your snips, we will remove the material between four holes on each side of the tray near the ends of the ¼-inch tubing. This will be the entry into the mesh tray where the ends meet and secure to the push-connect "T." I could try and 44

explain which holes to cut, but wouldn't it be easier to show it in the picture? :O) Don't connect the "T" connector yet. We still have to situate the tubing and secure the zip ties. Insert one end of your ¼-inch tubing through the bottom and into the mesh tray. Align it to the centerline of that end of the tray minus ¼-inch. ¼-inch from With your zip centerline, cut ties loose on both ends of the the bottom of tubing. the tray, you'll be able to maneuver the ¼-inch tubing so that the end is in the proper location. The picture depicts cutting and orienting the tubing ends. With your first end properly located, begin tightening your zip tie over the tubing while ensuring it is as straight as possible. An adequately secured zip tie requires no more than the force of your hand. With the zip tie head in one hand, pull the tail with the other hand. You cannot over tighten doing it manually, so pull with some force. When done, use your snips and cut the tail off right at the head. Before you round a corner and begin on your second row, ensure the bend (loop) is not past the tray's end because it will nest in the reservoir tray, and you don't want it to bind going in. Tighten the remaining three rows in the same way, cutting off the zip tie ends at the head as you did in the first row. Again, no loop from row-to-row should extend beyond the ends of the tray. Take the remaining end and put it 45

through the square hole you cut with the snips just like you did the first end. Finally, take the heads of every zip tie and push (rotate) them against the tray. If done correctly, the tubing will be higher than the zip tie head. See the picture here. Now that the tubing is secured in place, we can cut the excess tubing off to match the first tubing end— ¼-inch from the center line—and attach each end into the pushconnector "T." Retain the extra tubing; it will be your valve stem. The valve stem needs to exit the tray and tuck next to the rim to nest correctly in the reservoir tray. To insert the valve stem into the push-connector "T," you'll need to drill a hole in the bottom center of the tray ¾-inch above the bottom edge. We're going to use a ⅛Start with ⅛-inch pilot hole, inch drill bit followed by ⅜-inch bit. initially to create a pilot hole. The pilot hole helps you ensure good placement. We're going to place the ⅜-inch drill into the just-drilled ⅛-inch pilot hole to make the hole 46

bigger. Had we started with the ⅜-inch bit, it may have shifted some from the spot we want. Pilot holes are great to ensure proper location. Before we insert the tubing and make the valve stem, the final modification is to remove some material from the top, center of the tray's lip. I use a Dremel tool with a small, round sanding bit to notch the tray's lip, but you can use your utility knife or snips to cut it out similarly. Go slow and be careful! See the picture above. On either side of the notch, just under the lip, drill a ⅛-inch hole. We will use these two holes to pull the valve stem close and hold it center for our grows. Insert the leftover piece of tubing into the ⅜-inch hole off the bottom and push into the push-connector "T." Place a 4-inch zip tie through both holes on either side of the notch starting and ending on the outside of the tray. Lift the free end of the valve stem tubing and secure it with the zip tie pulling it 47

as close to the tray as you can without creasing the tubing. Cut off the end of the zip tie with snips; move the head of the zip tie over to one side and close to the tray. See the picture on the next page. I know a lot of detail, but your new bubbler is done! There's only one thing left to do, and that is making holes for air to escape. To do that, we're going to use what I call a "clean-out tool." Clean-Out Tool The bubbler's final step is to use a clean-out tool (COT) and make holes in the bubbler tubing. A COT is a #57 drill bit, flipped backward, so the smooth end faces out, shortened, and secured inside a chuck. A chuck is typically used to hold a small bit into a drill. It isn't a common tool, so refer to the "Tools Required" above if needed. Insert the #57 drill bit upside down into the chuck, so the smooth side faces out; tighten. With a pair of pliers, snap the bit about 1-inch from the chuck’s tip. The length of the bit remaining will give you a long enough piece to be stable, yet not too long to be unmanageable. Snapping it with the pliers will create a sharp enough point to penetrate through the tubing easily. If you desire, you can glue that same broken and shortened #57 bit into a small piece of wood or plastic to make a COT that doesn't need the chuck. I make these, for the kits I sell, 48

by drilling and flipping the bit into a piece of plastic. Take a look at the two finished COT options in the picture. Turn your tray upwards and find a drilled hole. Ensure the tubing is centered over the drilled hole and punch into the tubing with your COT. Be careful that your COT doesn't punch through the other side! If it does, one or two of those mistakes are ok overall in a bubbler, so don’t toss it. If your zip ties are tight enough, the tubing should not shift while you punch the hole. Take your time. The tubing may not be centered in the drilled hole where it turns to make another row. If so, you can add another zip tie on the other side of the hole in those corners. In such a case, you have zip ties on either side of the hole. After punching into the tubing, rotate the COT like you're touching the numbers of a clock. The rounding, off-center action will ream the punched hole some. For good measure, I do a few rotations then twist the COT while pulling it out. Do it for all 24 drilled holes. Bubbler Maintenance After every grow, check your bubbler for that incredible rolling boil effect in clean water. If a hole is clogged, use your COT and push it into the hole you'd previously made to ensure it’s open—twist while inserted. You may run the 49

bubblers in a bleach or vinegar solution timed for a few hours to help remove build-up inside the bubbler tubing. Generally, I've only soaked and scrubbed with dish soap to clean and then follow up with the COT on all holes, but I wanted you to know those options. Note: If you are not satisfied with the bubbles coming out of the bubbler and the valve is completely open, your pump probably isn’t strong enough. If that's not the case, and you're frustrated with bubble performance, you can use a soldering iron to help. With the smallest, pointed tip, insert it into the hole the COT had previously made and melt the hole open. Soldering irons are very inexpensive. Melting is more effective at keeping the hole open, but it requires a delicate touch to keep the holes from getting too big or melting the hole closed. If you've done it 24 times in a bubbler, you will understand what I mean. :O) The bubbler build is done! For your consideration, the 1st Generation Bubbler-Support is next. Generation 1 Bubbler-Support Construction Let’s look at my original bubbler; it may be easier to construct for some. With this version, you won't use an adapter tray, and you'll only use the tall tray for all microgreen grows, including those with screens. Why? Without some form of modification, a short tray will not allow the tubing to exit correctly, and it will be tilted. Let’s begin by making a square out of PVC, and it's easy. Connect two 17-inch lengths of ¾-inch PVC to two 7-inch lengths using 90-degree elbows. No need to glue, but push on tightly.

50

Now, you've framed your bubbler-support, and it will serve to elevate the tall tray. We need to make this square contraption an airmaking machine. Start by drilling a ⅜-inch hole in one of the short-sided pipes. Next, we insert the small end of a ¼-inch top-hat grommet into the newly drilled hole, ensuring the top-hat’s lip seats against the PVC. The top-hat provides a seal between the pipe and the ¼-inch tubing that will become our valve stem. The tubing can be tough to push into the top-hat grommet dry, so before inserting the 4- to 5-inch piece of tubing, make sure the inside of the tophat grommet and the tubing end is wet. Insert the tubing until you feel it is going in. If you're not sure if it's in far enough, disassemble the pipe and look inside.

51

We need to drill some holes so the bubbler-support will release air into the reservoir. Drill four to six holes evenly distributed along the two long sides with a #57 drill bit. Ensure your holes are oriented in the same place along the pipe while drilling—not too high or low, so bubbles exit evenly. I drill on the very top of each long side. Once all holes are drilled, turn the pipe downwards, so the holes face the tray’s center but close to the bottom. The bubbles will pop towards the center and always underwater, even if the reservoir is quite low. Congratulations, you have nearly finished an ugly square thing! :O) Show your sweetie. I'll wait. Ok, how'd it go? Lastly, orient the top-hat grommet to exit the reservoir tray without binding the tall tray when sitting on top—around 45 towards the side and up. Play with it, then push the pipe together to lock in the angle. You're done! Ready to grow?

52

Chapter 9 Covers

C

overs are part of the Assembly used to seal (loosely) the short or tall tray and provide a moist and dark environment for the seeds to thrive and germinate. A cover typically weighs about 2 pounds and has the secondary purpose of giving weight resistance to simulate the seed's natural struggle through the soil and into the light. If you think about it, the weight of soil is on top of a seed, and as it grows, it must pass through the earth, creating friction. This friction helps remove seed hulls and establish a penetrating, downward root structure. Without resistance, and specific to micros, one seed's upward growth can dislodge and lift another right out of the root zone. As you can imagine, resistance and struggle are essential. A cover alone is usually enough to provide adequate resistance, but some micros require more weight to help remove hulls or help densely-planted competing roots find their way down into the reservoir. Additional weight is rare, but anything you can imagine and fit on top of the cover yet under the dome will work. An example I've used is 1-pound vinyl-covered workout weights. They are small, can be sanitized, and since they don't touch the micros, there's no need for them to be food-grade. If that's a concern, they can be placed in Ziploc bags.

53

Material to Use Covers are not hard to fabricate. I'm going to cover the covers (pun) I use. Start with a piece of food-grade plastic between ¼- to ½-inch thick and larger than the 1020 tray. Available options abound and include polypropylene and polyethylene sheeting. An example of those is your standard cutting boards used for food preparation. Google those options and purchase from your favorite retailer. I'd love to give you more specific examples to make it easier on you, but retailers frequently change for cover materials. For instance, they’re often “no longer available” on Amazon. Cutting Once you've found your cover material, cut it as you would wood. The material will cut as easily as wood of the same thickness. Measure the top opening of either mesh tray. They should be the same. Be precise. Draw your measured lines onto the poly, and cut with a table saw or jigsaw. I use a small, folding $200 table saw to make quick work of the plastic. Jigsaws are cheaper, but take your time and get it as straight as possible. When using a jigsaw, a trick is to clamp a straight edge (board or other) onto the plastic and use it as a guide. Once done, take your cut 1020 piece and round the corners to fit the tray corners, using sanding paper or a file. I use a hand sander. If you take your time and do this right, the newly formed cover will rest just inside the top of the tall or short tray. Do not cut to fit on top of the seeds or into the tray too much. The top of the cover should be level with the top of the mesh tray to make a seal (of sorts). You can take it a step further, as I do, and sand an angle similar to the tray's downward slope on all four sides. It makes a tighter fit. 54

To Handle or Not to Handle To lift the cover, you can use a kitchen knife to wedge between the cover and the mesh tray gently to lift it. Hey, it works. But, if you want to make a handle, there are endless options. You could use your leftover poly sheeting and fabricate one and affix it to the top of the cover with stainless steel screws. My latest choice, I like quite a bit is kitchen cabinet doorknobs. I am now using a black, satin finish single, round knob on each end of the cover. They're inexpensive and easy to install. The ones I used here are in my store. Use your imagination for lots of options; its primary job is to be able to grab and lift the cover.

55

Chapter 10 Domes

I

use the tallest domes I can find for peas and mung beans because they can actually reach the top of a 7inch dome and then push it off! Sunflowers can get very close to the top too. Initially, I bought the taller domes for starting tomatoes, peppers, and other garden starts along with some grafting work, so when I ventured into microgreens, the taller domes adapted just fine. After some time, improvements were made to IHG, and streamlining was part of that change. I found almost all microgreens grew very well with a shorter 2-inch dome. The 2-inch dome was simpler to manipulate than the taller version. I reduced the overall height of IHG by more than half using the 2-inch dome and the short tray. A plus was easier harvesting, mainly since my preferred method with taller microgreens (peas, beans, sunflowers) doesn't involve leaving them on the tray. We'll cover harvesting soon. A desire for the taller microgreens will determine the need for a taller dome. Me? I'm not doing without sunflower, mung, or pea microgreens. They are all three staples for my family. Any dome you use will likely need a slight modification at the valve stem so it can rest on the short tray. The dome’s edge rests outside of the tray by ½-inch or so and encounters the valve stem's upward stance. To each dome, snip ¼-inch on each side of the valve stem and bend it 56

upwards and back. You can use your snips, the ones used on the bubbler, or scissors. Both work well. Taller domes don’t need this modification with the tall tray.

Blackout Domes (Blondes & Stem Elongation) I painted one of my domes for the sole purpose of keeping a new batch of peas in the dark. I noticed minimal tendril and leaf development, but the stems shot up near the top of the dome very fast. I tasted them and they were tender although lighter in color. I left uncovered for a couple of days; they greened up and leafed out some. I found them to be perfect—a large harvest and great taste! Later, growing them in the dark until harvest quickly became one of my favorite microgreens—I call them "blackout blondes" due to their color. Mung beans are another that is fantastic as a blonde. Most microgreens' stems will elongate the longer they're left in the dark. There are some exceptions, like basil. Why does it? Well, elongated stems increase harvest weight and give you more stem length to work with when harvesting. Another benefit to a longer stem is more uniformity of cotyledon growth. Longer stems allow micros to push each other further apart to reach the light. You'll notice once the micros grow taller than the tray height, they'll begin to 57

expand over the edges extending the canopy beyond the 10inch x 20-inch tray. They're pushing each other. Many will get shaded if they can't get to the light, and the cotyledon leaves will not develop. I'll reveal how to take advantage of the spreading and maximize a grow, using this technique later in the book. There are a few ways to create blackout domes for your 2or 7-inch domes to keep light out. At first, I painted them with flat-black paint designed for plastic. Do this if you want a permanent fix; they work fantastic. Remove dials from the dome and spray two coats for good coverage, and put dials back. When dry, hold the dome up to bright light or the sun and look for light shining in. Touch up as needed. Another option is to cover your dome. I now find this option preferable primarily because most micros are not full blackout grows. Covering isn't rocket science. Here are three quick options: 1.

Drape a black garbage bag over the dome and cut along the bottom all the way around. Secure the four corners with small clothespins. Once done, the cutout with pins attached can be lifted off and used later.

58

2. My favorite method is to Sandwich a garbage bag between two nested domes and cut the garbage bag just like above. 3. Lay a towel, dark fabric, or other material over the dome. In the beginning, I used shade cloth—a lightweight option.

Clear Domes (Hull Removal & Delicates) About half of a grow is dome-covered, but because the newer IHG covers keep light out well, there is no need for the domes to be painted black or even covered for most shorter types of microgreens barring stem elongation. By the time most micros lift the cover off, the dome can come off. While a large majority of grows do not require full blackout or any blackout, a form of covering makes more sense than painting—unless you're growing them 59

consistently for market or business. Then, I can understand the simplicity of "grabbing and going" to minimize time. Certain types of micros benefit from being under a clear dome after the cover comes off because they are not hardened enough—beets, chard, and amaranth, for example. The light coming in, and the humid environment, helps those delicate micros set roots and harden off. Believe it or not, a clear dome can help you get rid of seed hulls. They maintain moisture, and with exposure to light, the extra growth-kick micros obtain with photosynthesis helps cotyledons shed the hulls. You'll find that many types of hulls will harden and become nearly impossible for the plant to shed once the dome comes off. Even pulling the hulls off (sunflowers) can rip the cotyledons. I wouldn't use this method as the primary source to remove hulls, but it does work and a tool in your tool belt. Domes & Disease A blackout dome holds in moisture and humidity, but did you know it helps protect your plants from disease? Funguses are spores, and they're in the environment everywhere. When your microgreen environment is closed off, those spores have a more challenging time finding the micros. Sometimes disease or spores are on the seed transferring issues to plants as they grow, but antifungals are your tool to help control it within the Assembly. I'll speak about priming methods, a significant help, in an upcoming chapter. For the most part, domes help protect the micros, keeping "stuff" out until exposed to light. Once exposed to light, micros are hardier, and the root zone isn't

60

as exposed. By this stage, the plants are much more resilient to disease.

61

Chapter 11 Hydroponic Growing

W

ell, let me tell you, just as microgreens have terminology issues, so does "hydroponics." Goodness gracious, this is the biggest negative comment on my channel—"That’s not hydroponics.” I don’t have to worry about it here. IHG is definitively hydroponics. I grow in a water culture where plants obtain all they need in the water via soluble fertilizer I call nutrient water. Some folks call this method of hydroponics aerated water culture or solution culture. Did you know you can do all of this organically, the same setup? That’s coming up. Strength of Nutrients I’ve found half-strength nutrient water works great. Just use half the standard mixing directions as written on whatever package you purchase. But, you can very easily use up to and including full strength. I use a dry mix called Masterblend 4-18-36, vegetable and tomato formula. The mixing instructions require the addition of calcium nitrate and Epsom salt. Epsom salt is a layman’s term for magnesium sulfate—same, same. Briefly, for 5 gallons, the instructions call for 12 grams of Masterblend, 12 grams of calcium nitrate, and 6 grams of Epsom salt. Since each grow typically will start with about 1.5 gallons of nutrient water, we will divide by 5 for about 2.4 grams of Masterblend, 2.4 grams of calcium nitrate, and 1.2 grams of Epsom salt per gallon. Remember, we’re using half-strength, so we’ll 62

further cut it down, and it doesn’t have to be precise, so about 1 gram of Masterblend, 1 gram of calcium nitrate, and a ½-gram of Epsom salt per gallon. It’s in the weeds, I know, but I think you need weeds in the beginning. With as much as I grow, I mix in a 55-gallon plastic food-grade drum to full strength. I siphon off half-gallons at a time in old milk jugs and fill the rest with water. Shake and serve. Cost of Using Nutrients If you go to my Amazon store, linked on my YouTube channel, and buy the Masterblend package, for example, it costs just under $58 for a 25-pound kit. It’s the pricing at the time of this book, of course. If you buy in bulk, costs come down significantly. If my math is correct, 25 pounds equates to 11,340 grams. The estimated use of nutrient water used for an entire grow is about 3 gallons—the initial fill with more for topping up as the micros grow. Remember we figured 1 gram of Masterblend, 1 gram of calcium nitrate, and a ½ gram of Epsom salt for each gallon times three for the entire grow, you have a total of 7.5 grams. Divide the 25 pound kit of 11,340 grams by 7.5 grams, and you get just over 1,512 grows and harvests. Now, if you take the 25-pound kit purchase price of $58 and divide it by the number of grows, you get an estimated cost of just under $0.04 a grow. The exact amount doesn’t matter to me. Here’s what I know: The nutrient is very reasonable, lasts a long time, shortens your harvest time, and increases overall production. Don’t sweat it if you’re confused. I have a video on it! You’re going to need a scale to measure the nutrient powder before mixing, but the scale is also helpful for 63

measuring harvest weights if you’re so inclined. The one I use measures in grams, pounds, ounces, and kilograms. It cost me less than $20. Finally, you don’t have to use Masterblend. Any complete nutrient will work. Nutrient Water Change-Outs Should you change out the nutrient water? The answer is “Depends.” With most of my grows, I don’t have to replace the reservoir nutrient water. I just keep adding or topping up. There may be a few times you’ll need to replace the water, based on common sense. Change out the water if: a. There is an unpleasant smell. b. It’s not clear enough. Some micros leech and discolor the water or drop particles, but may still be ok. Your eventual experience will help figure out individual micros and their leaching potential. c. Roots darken, especially on the tips. d. If rinsing is part of a grow, as is the case with some micros. If you’re in doubt, you can always change it out and even incorporate change-outs regularly into how you grow as a form of insurance. However, if you run into any of those four above, those grows require more of your attention, or you may lose them. Chapter 15 gives much more detail on the subject. Advantages vs. Grow Media Now, I honestly haven’t grown too much in grow media. I saw from the get-go it was wasteful, so I didn’t give much credence to it. And that said, here’s my unbiased opinion: 64

Based on factual data, it’s proven my style is better! In your face, grow media growers! In your dirt-y faces. Kidding. :O) I am biased. I can say it isn’t a competition; it’s an option for you. I list these advantages and disadvantages in the “almost always” realm. There will always be exceptions and learning curves, but I’ve been consistent, so I’m pretty confident with them. 1. No Grow Media! I mean, there’s no expense for soil, peat, coco coir, potting mix, compost, hemp pads, synthetic pads, cellulose pads, or anything else. Nothing, unless you consider the reusable screen grow media. 2. Reduced Disease. In my grows with non-screen grow media, including paper towels, I’ve had issues with rot, foul smell, fungus, and damping off. I rarely have problems now—no mold; no anything. Advantages include cost savings, less product loss, less time loss, and more consistency. 3. Healthier. My grows are almost always pristine and more nutrient-dense. It is cleaner, and no grow media to contend with at harvest. 4. Denser Grows. My grows are intense! I grow in pounds, not ounces, and you can too. It means one tray may take the place of three trays in space. So, it means less utilization of counter space (or shelf space), materials, lighting, electricity, expenses, and quite frankly, more vacation time for you. Lol, maybe not so much on the last. 65

5. More Out of Seeds. I have used recommended amounts of seeds suggested by many people and companies, and I notice my final product weight is always more than their reported results. The reason for this success is directly related to the extra steps I take, listed in this book, to maximize product. The bottom line is you can get more out of your seeds, translating to seed cost savings, an increase in product sales, and return on investment. 6. Successful Grows. Happiness and bliss for you. Feels good to succeed. This last one goes to how you feel, my most significant reason for writing the book! The more people I can help, the better it makes me feel as well. And yeah, book sales are a good thing too. :O) Disadvantages vs. Grow Media I don’t think there are many! I’m going to list a few; however, I think this style quickly recovers most of the disadvantages in cost with returns on investment. 1. Buying More. Initial costs can be significant if you go big out of the gate. For this reason, I suggest starting on a smaller scale, getting comfortable, and then getting after it! An Assembly or two is not much more than grow media-based costs. 2. Space. Not being able to stack may be viewed as a disadvantage. I honestly don’t know if it’s true, but I indeed perceive you may feel so. Going vertical on shelves helps alleviate space issues, especially with 66

my harvest-to-light rotation, which I’ll discuss in an upcoming chapter. 3. Use of Nutrient Water. It could be a wash—a bit of advantage and a bit of a disadvantage. Purchasing nutrient and storage containers are a disadvantage. However, it could be offset with water conservation, not having to lift micros to a watering location daily, or creating an open watering grow area where one would have to control runoff. 4. Cost of Nutrient. It does cost money, but as mentioned earlier, it’s not much factored over time because it lasts a long time. It also raises the micros' nutritional value, makes them grow faster, increases turnaround time, and makes you more money if you decide to sell them. Shhhh, don’t tell anyone, but it’s really an advantage. 5. Electricity. A minor disadvantage on a timer. Please consider for this disadvantage, micros grown, as outlined in the book, are grown without light half of the time. So, during that time, not using light could be considered savings. PH Levels If you grow hydroponically, as I suggest in the book, pH is a consideration. PH (pH) is an acronym for the potential of hydrogen, and it refers to the acidity or alkalinity of your nutrient water. However, it ain’t all that! The reason is that pH doesn’t factor in as much with seeds, and young plants, like it does with long-time-growing adult plants. Most 67

water sources are just fine to grow micros. Of more significant concern is a good water source for your health— one without heavy metals, high chlorine, chemicals, and more. So, yeah, most water sources are typically pHfriendly and will work. A simple $10 meter will let you determine pH levels. You can find an example at my Amazon affiliate store discussed in the last chapter. Growing Organic Are hydroponic nutrients needed? While most microgreens can grow fully (maybe) without nutrients, I believe nutrient water imparts nutritional value you wouldn’t get otherwise. In other words, you still get the value of what the seed stores and the value nutrient water may also add. My personal experience shows me I get better results with the addition of water-soluble fertilizers—BY FAR. I have grown side-by-side comparisons—nutrient water vs. water only— and while water can grow most micros to a point, they don’t look as robust, and they’re slower to reach harvest. “But, Brent, gosh-darn-it, I want completely organic!” to which I say, “Really, Mr. Rudey.” :O) Ok, you’ve convinced me. Here’s the most organic way I can imagine to grow: 1. Use water only instead of nutrient water and live with reduced productivity, appearance, and lack of nutrients within the micros. 2. Use liquid kelp. You’ll need to make the strength heavy and deal with the very dark and potentially staining liquid. If you use high concentrations, handle carefully, and rinse the roots before harvesting, it’s doable. 68

3. Use sodium nitrate, Epsom salt, and an “ocean” formula combination. Many consider these three ingredients, organic. You can search OMRI to determine the most current classification. Mix and match. 4. Trays are made of Polypropylene #5, the same material used to support many food-related substances such as yogurt tubs, butter tubs, baby bottles, and more. If this isn’t doable, you’re likely out of luck in a microgreens adventure. 5. Use food-grade screens. I no longer recommend anything but these types of screens. 6. My two antifungals, listed in the book, should pass organic requirements. Stay away from chemical treatments. I have received feedback. Organic certification can be complicated and indeed confusing. It will vary state by state, so assume there will be gaps in what I’ve learned and explained. I intend to help where I can, but please do your due diligence. These small changes will provide even the staunchest organic supporter options for an excellent clean, healthy alternative and hopefully lead to organic certification for those inclined.

69

Chapter 12 Seeds!

T

here can be no more significant key to starting right than ensuring you have good, reliable seeds. If it doesn’t grow, you’re done. If you have poor germination, you’re done, and you’re going to be frustrated because you may feel like something else is the cause. Use fresh seeds annually. If you’re buying in bulk and expecting it to last more than a year, your frame of thought is incorrect. Instead, buy based on what you’ll use and do it at least once a year, if not more. When you get a new batch of seeds, your first grow should be to “test the seeds” as it were. If it’s a poor grow, try it at least one more time, but if it fails again, get more seeds! What Seed Company Should I Use? There are many good seed companies and more jumping in the game all the time. The list below is just a few. I’ve purchased from many of them and am affiliated with one of them. I’ve found many of them to be reliable, but you make your own choice. After you’ve been growing for a while, I would suggest finding some unusual sources from places like ethnic markets, whole food stores, and more. You may find some great organic seeds. Start with safe, reliable sources to build up your success and confidence. Alphabetically: Eden Brothers ~ Everwilde Farms ~ Harris Seeds

70

High Mowing Organic Seeds ~ Johnny’s Selected Seeds Kitazawa Seed Co Sprout People ~ True Leaf Market ~ West Coast Seeds Keep Seeds Dark Most seeds do best when kept in the dark, and you’re trying to emulate Mother Nature for the most part. In the microgreens world, one caveat is lettuce, and it can germinate well in the light. For the most part, getting back to the gist, keep your seeds in the dark at all phases— storage, soaking/priming, and post-germination until the microgreens’ roots reach into the reservoir. I’m certainly no expert on how lighting affects seeds, but I know it does. It’s easy to remember: seeds = dark. Buying in Bulk Buying in bulk is an option if you’re on a budget, going large scale, or if you know there is an exceptional lot # of seeds growing well for you. If you vacuum-seal seeds, long-term storage is possible. I’ve tested long-term storage of seeds, where I take tested seed lots, vacuum-seal them, and put them in a container in the freezer. I’m on year three now and have excellent germination on all of my seeds, including lettuce and onion, which are notoriously short-lived. I know seed banks have used this process for a very long time with phenomenal success, well beyond ten years and up to 50. How far can it go? Who knows, but for our sake, it is a great way to ensure high germination for an extended period. If you find your “sweet spot” density amounts for your grows, you can pre-measure your seeds, seal them, and grab as needed. For example, in one sitting, you could vacuum71

seal ten packets of sunflowers at 400 grams each, ten packets of broccoli at 50 grams each, and ten packets of radish at 70 grams. Put them all in a container or Ziploc bag and pop them into the freezer. When ready at week 1, pull a package out and grow. At week 10, a vacuum-sealed and frozen seed package should give you a grow very consistent to week 1—with little to no seed degradation. Now, consider extending the process for a year; talk about making grows quick and easy. :O) There’s some work involved up-front and some investment in a vacuum-sealer, but it might be for you if you’re producing on a larger scale or if you want to save seed costs by buying in bulk. Priming Seeds Anytime seeds are soaked for a while, before planting or growing, it’s called priming the seeds. Some seeds take longer to absorb water fully, so merely spraying the top of the seeds isn’t quite good enough. At the very least, the soaking is easy insurance. Some seeds need special care to ensure a good grow—beyond soaking. Here, I’ll outline how the various types of seed preparation have helped me achieve some great grows. They stem from my trial-anderrors. As always, it’s not the end-all, be-all, and of course, you can adjust as you see fit. The quick-reference chart outlines which priming method to use for your seeds. 12-Hour Soak When priming, I’ve found the most you need to soak seeds is 12 hours. It’s the standard I use—12-hour soaks when I soak. I’ve had a few grows fail or perform poorly, and I attribute the poor performance to soaking for too long or too little. The point is to let water enter the seed’s coating 72

to begin the germination process, ensuring more germination and growth.

Bleach Priming I know you may be thinking, “Aaaaaaaaahhhhhhh!” But, read on. It’s good stuff. If you’re having mold issues frequently, this is a must treatment. Most seeds have bacteria, and even disease, on the surface. Chlorine bleach priming will wipe it out and help ensure a trouble-free grow. There is lots of literature on chlorine bleach treatment of seeds if you Google “bleach seed treatment.” You’ll see many university endorsements as well as other scientific articles. There will hopefully still be a video or two on it from places like LSU Ag Center. Take a look. Below is my adaptation for microgreens, and I’ve used it extensively after the 12-hour soak. I recommend it as a topnotch tool in your toolbelt! And a side effect, there might be improved germination, according to some literature. Read the entire process here before attempting, so you’ll know what to do full before getting into this timed priming method:

73

1. Premix 1 part of chlorine bleach (5.25 - 6%) to 5 parts of water. For example, if a part equals 1 ounce, that’s 6 ounces total. 2.

Add a drop or two of liquid dishwashing detergent. Stir.

3. Grab a timer and set it for 2-minutes, so it’s ready with a touch of a button. I use my phone app. Less time can reduce effectiveness, and too long can kill the seed. 4. Place your seeds in a container capable of sealing. I use a ball jar with a canning lid. See the picture on the previous page for good options. Pour the bleach mixture over the seeds filling the container from ½ to ¾ full, and tighten the lid. Space will leave enough sloshing capability, which is essential! 5. Start a timer and agitate the jar aggressively with the seeds and bleach solution. I shake the dickens out of it. The more aggressive you are, the more beneficial effect you’ll receive. I can see the cleaning action through my jar when I do it. 6. Right at 2 minutes, take the lid off and put on a draining lid or pour it into a small screened colander. Rinse thoroughly many times. I take the sealed lid off the ball jar and replace it with a sprouting jar lid. Again, see the picture on the 74

previous page. I fill the jar and drain it many times. To be exact, I fill and rinse five times, then add water and let soak for 10 minutes before a final drain. 7. Place seeds on an Assembly to grow. In the case of peas and sunflowers, I put them on the tray wet. Others, I may let dry for a few hours, or even a day or more so they’re easy to spread. BC Priming (Beet & Chard) Some seeds are simply a pain in the backside and require some work if you want decent results. Beet and chard are the absolute worst! I’ve spent well over a year, lots of trials, and tons of research trying to get them to perform somewhere near other micros in terms of harvest potential and return on investment. As a premier micro, I believe my work here was worth it, and you should see significant improvement. “BC Priming” is the short-term reference to this method as it can apply to other seeds like cilantro successfully. Here’s the sequence of events to pull off BC Priming: 1. Soak 24 hours rinsing many times to clear dirty water/debris. Beet and chard are often very dusty/dirty. I use a ball jar with a sprouting lid, as discussed before. Note we’re doubling the soak time of other seed. 2. After the soak, drain and do the Chlorine Bleach Priming discussed on previous page.

75

3. Pour on your Assembly tray/screen, paper plate, or another surface, and spread seeds out to dry for two full days. It should be dry well before 24 hours in a typical house but leave for 48 hours regardless. 4. At this point, you’re three days into this. Spread the dry seeds onto an Assembly short tray lined with a medium screen, fill a reservoir tray with regular water roughly halfway, and place the short tray with seeds on top of it. Keep adding water into the reservoir until the seeds in the short tray begin to float lightly. At this point, the barely floating seeds will spread evenly across the tray. Soak for 4 hours. All you’re doing here is getting the water back into the seeds to start the germination process. Spraying the top isn’t good enough for beet and chard. 5. After the 4-hour soak, lift the tray gently so seeds aren’t disturbed, set the tray/seeds aside, empty the water reservoir, and return the tray/seeds to the empty reservoir tray. Take to your grow area, fill the reservoir tray as you would any grow with nutrient water; you’re done!

76

So, to sum up, soak/rinse for 24 hours, bleach it, dry 2 days, and soak 4 hours to tray up. It has tripled harvest weights for me. Mucilaginous Seed Processing Some seeds have a slimy or gelatinous coating that forms around the seeds when wetted. It is an issue for growing microgreens, especially without any soil or soilless grow media such as peat or coco coir. Some seeds do this as evolutionary protection from other seeds or to ensure enough water to germinate properly, but it is undoubtedly problematic. Mucilaginous seed includes basil, arugula, cress, flax, chia, mizuna, radish types, and some types of mustard. Process these seeds as described below, and they will essentially perform like other seeds because you’re removing the mucilage that causes the problems. Read the process below first as much as needed.

1. Put 10g of dry seeds into a dry strainer like the one shown above—only 10g of seeds at a time. Keep dry! What we’re essentially doing is racing against the time it takes mucilage to form. If you use much more than 10g, the mucilage will develop too 77

quickly before you can rinse it off, and you’ll have a sloshy mess of seeds/gel going out of control. 2. In an area outside you don’t mind getting wet, attach a sprayer like the one displayed on the previous page onto your hose. Turn to the “full” setting. Turn sprayer off, so water isn’t flowing. Many sprayers have this 4- or 5-stream higher pressure setting. Buy one that has it. 3. At this point, you have a sprayer set to “full” in your right hand and a strainer filled with 10g of dry seeds in your left hand—basil, for example. Get prepared for the race. :O) 4. Make sure your dry seeds are centered on the bottom of the strainer. Turn your sprayer on gently to wet the seeds. Once wetted, point sprayer away from seeds and turn it on full blast. Mucilage is now forming! Bringing the sprayer back towards the strainer and going in a circular motion, direct the “full” stream towards the top, angling downwards until you contact the seeds. It should not dislodge the seeds much. You may need to practice the technique. The entire 78

stream force needs to make direct contact with the seeds and blow the mucilage off the seeds as it forms. Continue the circular motion directly on the seeds till the mucilage is no longer. It won’t take long. 5. Turn sprayer off. Rotate strainer sideways and let the water drip out. Flip strainer upside down directly over a plate or paper plate, and thump the strainer's bottom to pop the seeds onto the plate. Make sure you’re close! 6. Pour another 10g of dry seeds into the strainer and repeat the process with all of your seeds. I use a mouthwash cup to hold several 10g batches of seeds ready to process. 7. All seeds will be on the plate or paper plate. Spread and let dry. In a typical house environment, it should take less than 24 hours. Once the seeds are dry, there may be some clumping. Rub clumped seeds between your fingers. Now, you have dry seeds that will not form mucilage. Treat like broccoli or radish at this point. It’ll grow great! Seed Density You’d think how dense you plant, or the amount of seeds to put in your 1020, is a personal preference, but some 79

restrictions apply in IHG. Within those restrictions, there’s some room for personal preference. Let’s take a common microgreen, broccoli. If you grow 20 grams of broccoli, what can occur is you might not have the “lean on each other” support. With too little, micros can collapse as they grow and become trapped or intertwined, and they’ll fail to lift the cover weight. What happens if you grow 100 grams of broccoli? Well, I have and more. They often do quite well until uncovered. As the canopy fills due to cotyledon leaf growth, they begin to crowd out their neighbor and shade them. It’s ok to a point if they can push the others to the side, but the pushing only goes so far. Eventually, the sidepressure will maximize (can’t move). A large number of plants are forced under a closing canopy of cotyledons, and just like in blackout, the trapped micros cannot photosynthesize. What you will see is a lot of underdeveloped micros at harvest time. They’re still good, but it’s essentially a waste if you think about it. It’s better to optimize the density to ensure most cotyledons can grow. The leaves, reaching good light, mean stouter plants and more harvest weight. So, 20 grams may be too little, and 100 grams may be too much. It’s fine to play around a little from the suggested amounts in the quick-reference chart. You can rely on the densities, to begin with, and add or subtract from it to meet your personal preference. Get In and Get Out! When growing microgreens, most issues are avoided due to shorter growing periods. There’s not much worry about disease and insect pressure when you don’t give them time to take hold. I get asked why I don’t cut the microgreens and let them grow again. Besides the fact most micros will 80

die if cut, the main reason I don’t is the longer you grow something, the more chance for destructive issues to develop. So, your objective should be to get in, get out as quickly as possible, and start again new. There are grows where it is beneficial to grow them longer. Below are a couple of examples, and you may find more. 1. Long-Term Micros. Most herbs, celery, and fennel take a long time to grow, and you can maximize your harvests by growing them beyond cotyledon to true leaf or several true leaves. They are often very fragrant, so you might not mind the extra time. :O) Once true leaves begin, the plants are established, so each day afterward, the growth increases significantly. You can easily double the product in the final seven days of a grow vs. the first 21 days, for example. I grow herbs longer to get more harvest weight primarily—more return on investment. Herbs often have properties that fight disease and mold, which helps in longer grows.

2. Chef or Personal Choice. Many micros can be grown to the first or second true leaf with little extra time. The true leaves of many micros are quite attractive and preferred by chefs. The latest trend I see is harvesting at first true leaf. An example is the frilly leaf of Red Russian kale.

81

Chapter 13 Fighting Fungus

Y

our biggest threat will likely come from fungus, often commonly referred to as mold. There is nothing wrong with the term here, for our purpose, because mold is a type of fungus. Most fungi prefer wet, humid areas with warmth and often low-light conditions. IHG owns that environment, but it can be a potential fungus playground. It is everywhere, and your job will be to control it for the cleanest product possible. It’s not hard if you follow the steps I’ve outlined in the book. Before we get into some maintenance using antifungals, let’s look at a common issue many confuse with fungus and discuss your fiercest monster in microgreens growing. Root Hair Confusion Root hairs are often confused with fungus. You’ll likely see both in your grows, so you’ll need to get familiar with how to determine the difference. Root hairs are very fine, almost feathery when not wet. When wetted as you spray, they lie flat, and you may feel like you’ve made an impact on the fungus with your antifungal, only to see the next day it’s back. Not knowing the difference between fungus and root hairs, you may feel you’re in a losing battle. Look very closely at the roots. If you see consistency, localized only on the roots, you’ve got root hairs. Listen, I have tried to treat root hairs in my confusion, and I’ve gone so far as to toss out a perfectly good grow. The picture on the next page should give you a nice closeup of root-hairs. 82

Spiderweb like growths, whitish in color, may appear on portions of your grow. If it doesn’t distinguish between roots, hulls, or leaves, it’s an indication of fungus. This type is quite common on sunflowers, but it’s not the only fungus out there, and others might not be so visible. There’s another resembling cotton candy to me, so it’s what I call it. I’ve seen it mostly at the base of stems when plants have grown some. It’s important to use preventative measures like antifungals and adapt them to fit your needs. Pythium My biggest challenge used to be pythium. Merriam-Webster defines Pythium: Pythium \pithēəm\ - a genus of destructive root-parasitic fungi (family Pythiaceae) having filamentous sporangia, smooth-walled spherical oogonia, and stalked antheridia and including forms (as P. debaryanum) causing dampingoff.

83

Some definitions say it is classified as fungi, but others refer to it as a plant parasite. I prefer parasite because it sounds so much nastier and fits the bill as far as I’m concerned. Pythium can cause root rot and damping-off—two common issues with microgreens growing. Symptoms you may see are stunted sprouts in some areas, browning roots, dead roots, slimy roots, and withered plants from patches to the full tray. It is, no kidding, your monster issue. Pythium can infect seeds before they sprout and beyond. In some circles, it is attributed to a lack of air circulation and dense planting. Not so in my experience. I had the most damping off with young micros, exposed to air, without airinfused nutrient water instead of in the super-humid blackout dome. I believe the dome, along with oxygenated nutrient-solution, does wonders at protecting micros from this monster. Again, prevention is key. I’ve managed to avoid most issues most of the time. In fact, since growing IHG, as outlined in this book and the previous edition, I haven’t seen one episode of pythium. But, keep in mind, you will have issues. I cannot guarantee you won’t. Look at those challenges as learning experiences. Let’s learn to grow. :O) Antifungals Antifungals are maintenance (preventative) sprays designed to prevent or kill off fungus and disease in the first stages of growth before you’ll even see it. The greatest opportunity for issues will occur while the blackout dome is on, and the plants are just forming. Antifungals are not cure-alls. If you have a nasty infection, they will likely not resolve it. The key is following the routines outlined in the 84

book, and that includes antifungals. Please do not take them lightly. They are fantastic weapons.

I use two types of antifungals—Basic and Super. The Basic recipe will be sufficient for almost all of your grows while the Super is extra insurance. I use the Super all the time. It’s just easier for me. But if you don’t want to start with the Super, you can certainly migrate to it if you see evidence the Basic isn’t working. The Super is likely even to kill visible evidence of fungus or disease, so give it a chance before tossing out the grow. I’ve had some wonderful feedback and lots of repeat orders from folks using the Super Antifungal. I want you to keep in mind the longevity of the two antifungals. The Basic’s effectiveness begins to deteriorate right after mixing. Within three days, it has little to no effectiveness so mix a fresh batch every time for the most bang. I have not seen the Super Antifungal deteriorate for long periods of time, although I use it in relatively short order and usually within a month or so. How long will it remain effective is unknown, but a while.

85

Basic Antifungal Recipe: • Use a dark sprayer or painted sprayer. Light deteriorates hydrogen peroxide. I painted one black. • 2 Tablespoons 12% Food-Grade Hydrogen Peroxide • 1 Quart or Liter of Clean Water Super Antifungal Recipe (use dropper bottles for precision): • 15 Drops Oregano Oil • ½ Teaspoon Potassium Bicarbonate • *15 Drops Neem Oil (Rarely Used) • Sunflower Lecithin, **Potassium Silicate, or Organic soap to emulsify (mix) the oil with water. Lecithin and soap are about 2/3 the amount of oil used. So, 15 drops of oil equate to about 10 drops of the emulsifier, any type. Add a drop or two more if it doesn’t mix well. Potassium silicate is equal parts, so 15 drops each. • 1 Quart or Liter of Warm Water Mixing the Super Antifungal: Fill sprayer with warm, clean water. Make sure it’s warm, not cold or hot. Add potassium bicarbonate and stir or shake till dissolved. Separately, mix oil and emulsifier stirring until combined into a milky solution. I use droppers and mix directly in a tablespoon with the dropper tip (clean after). Once oil/emulsifier is mixed, stir the tablespoon mixture into the

86

water/potassium bicarbonate solution. Shake vigorously to mix and regularly while in use. * I rarely use neem anymore, but you can add 15 Drops of cold-pressed neem oil to the Super Antifungal to preventatively control some small insects such as whitefly or aphids; however, it’s not effective at killing infested crops. If you use neem, you will need a few extra drops of emulsifier. ** Potassium silicate is a promising emulsifier I’m trialing at the time of this book writing. It’s OMRI listed, has organic pesticide applications with some insects, and is good for the plants! They utilize potassium and silica for cell structure. It’s often sold as a powder, and that’s what I use. To get the proper ratio for mixing, create a slurry. Mix 35 grams of powder to 8 ounces of water. Store for up to a year. Your slurry is now used for drop measurement mixing. The Super Antifungal has many advantages. I developed it from a more potent version I use in outdoor gardening to fight powdery mildew and insect pressure organically. The recipe took me years and many trials to settle on. Let’s look at the ingredients involved in the Super Antifungal, so you’ll understand why I settled on the formula. Again, droppers store and dispense ingredients uniformly. Oregano Oil. In articles I’ve read, oregano oil has the most significant antimicrobial activity against pathogenic and saprophytic microorganisms compared to all other herbal oils. Many other oils were tested, but oregano oil showed the greatest barrier against several microorganism strains. 87

The addition of the oil is detectable in the spray—mildly so—but I haven’t noted the smell at harvest days later after use. Potassium Bicarbonate. Ever read how some folks use sodium bicarbonate, aka baking soda, to fight fungus, especially powdery mildew, in their gardens? Well, potassium bicarbonate is better at doing the job! It is a fungus contact killer wiping out the spores. It is listed as an organic fungicide and has the additional benefit of buffering acidic pH levels. Emulsifiers. These are agents to disperse the oils and mix the ingredients. It helps prevent your sprayer's clogging from oils and ensures an even application of the other ingredients onto the micros. It is important to realize you need to shake up your sprayer to mix the ingredients before every use and regularly while spraying; otherwise, the oil will separate from the mix. Cold-Pressed Neem Oil (if used). Make sure you get the cold-pressed oil. It has the properties needed. Some companies remove the crucial parts of neem. Neem is touted in many ways for your health, but for us, neem contains a metabolite called azadirachtin. When an insect chews on a leaf and ingests azadirachtin, it affects the hormonal system and disrupts its eating, mating, and egglaying capacity. Neem is fantastic but pungent. Washes Washes are post-harvest treatments. I have two simple washes for you, and they are both organic. One is a 88

powerful disinfectant and can be used on any vegetables to clean them. The second is a light wash and can help preserve your micros in storage. •

Vegetable Disinfectant. In a large container or sink, mix 20 parts of water with 1 part 12% food-grade hydrogen peroxide and 1 part distilled white vinegar. Spray, rub, or dip for 5 minutes and rinse with clean water.

•

Vegetable Preservative/Light Wash: Salt is a preservative and is arguably the most important cooking ingredient. Add 1 gram of salt per liter or quart of clean water (4 grams/gallon). Immerse for 2 minutes and let drain. No need to rinse. The type of salt you use can also impart some trace minerals and differing tastes, but the effect is the same no matter which salt you use.

89

Chapter 14 Harvesting & Packaging

I

have used many types of harvesting in IHG, but I’ve settled on two to suggest for you fine folks. They are Screen and Tray Harvesting. Most soil-based microgreens growers use a knife and, sometimes, scissors to harvest microgreens close to the soil, but not too close as to take the dirt with the micros while cutting. Usually, an individual will grab a handful, slice or cut, and place it in a container and repeat until finished. It is the basic non-machined harvest you’ll see out there, and it’s effective. Screen Harvesting You can remove the screen from the short tray with all of the microgreens attached! It reminds me of carpet, is cool, and makes me smile. :O) Now, you’ve got a dangling mat of beautiful micros, and if you think about it for a short minute, there are tons of ways to use it for rinsing or harvesting. How about placing it over a rail for easy access? Now, you’ve got micros dangling down where you can rinse them, let them drip nearly dry, and easily cut them. 90

Take a look at a simple rail over the sink in the picture to on the previous page. With this option, you could harvest on one side, say full of a vegetable wash, for instance, to dunk and then transfer to the other side of the sink for a postrinse. The sink rail option allows one to harvest quickly. Another option is to pull the screen out of the tray, lay it flat on any surface, and cut the same as a traditional harvest using scissors or a knife. Without being in a tray, you will be able to get close to the screen and harvest without worrying about getting soil on your microgreens. Tray Harvesting Tray harvesting is the easiest method for larger-seeded micros when a screen is not used. Lift the mesh tray out of the reservoir, let it drip for a short while, and turn on its side. Using a knife, cut the roots off the bottom of the mesh tray. The purpose of cutting the roots is to allow you to pull the micros from the mesh tray much more effortlessly. Without cutting the majority of roots off the back, you will find it very difficult to remove the micros, and you may find yourself ripping the stems trying. I did. This method is fantastic for sunflowers, peas, beans, and popcorn. After removing the root mat, turn the micros upright. Grabbing a handful of micros at a time, you can cut off the very bottom remaining roots very quickly and leave 91

clumps of perfect micro stems bunched with lovely tops attached. If there’s evidence of seed hulls or immature seedlings, you can grab the micros by the tops and vigorously shake the cut stems to help remove debris. You won’t damage the micros. They’re pretty darned tough. You bet; I have videos on both methods. Fodder & Composting A basic definition of fodder is “something to feed to domestic animals.” Many people who opt to grow microgreens are looking to grow or raise their own food in many ways. They are gardeners and livestock owners who want to secure healthy sources for their food. A few will raise livestock such as chickens, goats, cattle, horses, or pigs as part of their plans. When you harvest your microgreens, their roots, stems, and seed hulls or casings are fantastic fodder sources for all of these animals. Toss it all into a bucket, dunk with water for a quick rinse, and feed. In some cases, the “leftover” fodder will outweigh the saved microgreens, and the animals love it! Huge bonus. On the flipside, throw the leftovers unrinsed into a compost pile along with the used nutrient water left in the reservoir. Talk about recycling. Once it breaks down, use it for your 92

vegetable garden, roses, or trees—whatever suits your fancy. :O) Packaging If you’re consuming your microgreens, package them in any way you’d package any vegetable. If growing for market or sale, there are undoubtedly endless packaging options available. I’ll quickly share my thoughts on it for your consideration despite not selling one single microgreen plant. Keep in mind aesthetics are vital to selling just about everything. When you go car shopping, you’re not impacted first by the seat's comfort, the handling in the curves, or the zip on take-off. No, you’re looking at the packaging— exterior flash and overall look. It’s the same with anything. If your micros are tossed in a Walmart bag and brought to a chef, do you think it would have the same appeal as if you presented a beautiful package with a nice label on it? Of course not. The chef is considering you, not the product, and is wondering what your product must be like if you can’t even take the time to present it well. Once you’re established and have a good rapport, maybe you can slack some on the packaging after forming trust. Here are two options for you to consider or expand on—bags and clamshells. Bagging Pretty simple, put your product in a bag neatly. I went online and started looking. I found some food grade bags, gusset type, 15-inches long by 6-inches wide with a 3.5quart capacity. The picture on the next page is a fair representation of a good-looking product if you ask me. Labels are almost a must! For a case of 1,000 bags and 93

packages of twist ties, it cost me less than $30 or 3 cents a package. They could handle the longest shoots, a huge harvest of cuttings totaling more than a pound, and you can cut bag length down for smaller packaging. So, you have many options to present a bag package format to your chef, give to friends, or store it in your crisper. To finish off the package professionally, you’ll need to label your bags with a cool logo and pertinent info telling folks who you are. I went with 2.5” round labels using Avery stick-on labels #5294 and loaded the template in Microsoft Word 2007. I then opened Microsoft PowerPoint 2007 and created the design I wanted. After printing, I put one on each bag. Personalize your design and create your masterpiece to help you sell your micros. I did mine quickly. If you’re going into sales, consider whether you should have them produced professionally. Online, professional label makers will help you design a logo, and they’re not unreasonable. I 94

use one for my Super Antifungal concentrate. You can view that one in the final chapter. In the picture right, notice that I included my contact information. Clamshells Clamshells offer a cool packaging option in many styles usable in numerous ways. Just about any micro, you can imagine can be cut, weighed, and thrown in the clamshell with the label affixed. It’s almost magical how awesome it looks. Most clamshells can be stacked and stored in the refrigerator for a few days and look perfectly fine before delivering to a restaurant. If you’re not the commercial type and are growing strictly for personal use, clamshells are a cool way of storing and organizing micros for premeasured personal use too! Take a look at them in my refrigerator to the right. Selling Live Product This option is gaining popularity—selling live product with roots attached. Those roots can keep micros alive and at the peak of freshness. Preparing to sell the live product is almost the same as any other grow— 95

same Assembly, same dome, same bubbler—same, same. The growing difference is making your screens tailored to your clamshell or other packaging. The screens I use now are food-grade and off-white, but otherwise, it’s the same as the pictures display. I start by cutting screens small enough to fit in the bottom of my clamshell. To do this, I turned the clamshell upsidedown and measured the bottom with a tape measure. Then, I took a medium screen and, using the same measurements, I cut it out. After cutting the first one, I used it as a template to make all the other live-grow screens. Cut out enough to fit in a mesh tray. In my example below, I prepared 17 screens for 17 packages to fit my clamshell. Your needs will vary depending on the size of your clamshell or container. There are many possibilities with packaging because of so many styles. There are options beyond clamshells and bags too! Use your imagination. Mats are also an option over a screen for live sale. Orient your screens in the mesh tray and label the mesh tray! Unless you have a fantastic memory, unlike me, it is best to label what you’re doing. As they say, “You’ll thank me later!” Painter’s tape is a fantastic, easily removable option. Left, you see radish, broccoli, kale, and cabbage. They grow similarly and can be planted on the same 96

day without worry; however, you’re not limited by “same day” either. Another possibility is to delay the planting of some of the seeds for a day or two. It’s effortless to place the seeds on top of the screen once others are actively growing. Take a look at what those small screens are capable of producing! Now, it’s time to package these up for sale. Because we use screens, it’s super simple to pull a screen out—full of micros—and place it in a clamshell, pop a label on it and stack it in the fridge to get ready for sale. To make it a live sale, we need to keep the roots hydrated so the micros can continue to grow for another few days. I take a small paper towel, soaked in nutrient water, and fold it to fit in the bottom of the clamshell neatly. You can use unbleached if you like. The purpose is to retain 97

moisture and provide a base for the roots to sit on. If you’ve done your job correctly, each package will remain alive for quite some time. You can package your micros at day 8 of your grow, instead of day 12, refrigerate for a few days before delivery to your customer, and the customer can place them in a small trough of water allowing the micros to continue to grow. In this manner, a chef can cut on a single package for days if desired. Live packaging is incredibly fun and potentially very profitable! Remember, you can use any size packaging. Below left, you’ll see a package with holes in the bottom at about day 8. The paper towel has kept them alive and thriving in the refrigerator. To the right of it is continued growth after taking out of the fridge and set to grow for 4 more days in a small trough of water. What a difference, huh?

Small Quantities for Personal Use It’s the very same growing process, but use a whole screen with many types growing on it in the same tray. Or, if you prefer, use the cut screen for a more precise spread. And, you can reuse them over and over. Roots attached or not, they’ll remain viable for a long time in your refrigerator. 98

Chapter 15 Let’s Grow Something!

B

efore we get started, Assembly parts can be changed out as needed while growing. A fresh reservoir and bubbler can be filled and placed next to another actively growing Assembly. If desired or needed, the microgreens and tray can be lifted out and placed into the new bubbler and reservoir with the utmost ease. Say, for example, you don’t like the clarity of the reservoir water of a pea grow, or the bubbler isn’t performing like you’d like, then swap them out with fresh new parts! So, I’ve gone on and on about my style. How about I summarize and put it all together for you using two grows? One is a “Brassica Mix,” which includes broccoli, kale, kohlrabi, red cabbage, green cabbage, and turnip, while the other is Speckled pea.

Day 1 - Setup Using a freshly cleaned Assembly, let’s begin. bubbler in the bottom tray and fill it with 1.5 gallons of nutrient water. If filled correctly, 99

Put the

there should be roughly ½-inch space between the water level and the bottom of your mesh tray. For peas, mung bean, and sunflower microgreens (large seed), place your adapter onto the bubbler followed by the 2.5-inch tall tray. Do not use a screen.

For all other microgreens, place the 1-inch mesh tray followed by the screen applicable for your seeds. If you’re unsure which screen fits which seeds, flip back to the chapter on screens for review or look at the quickreference chart. Both areas will make it clear. Make sure you perform the bubbler maintenance with the COT before every grow! Next, turn on your pump and connect your airline to the bubbler. We’re going to adjust the bubbles as needed. You’ll want first to check out the 100

effect without the tray on top so you can see the reservoir water. The bubbles should appear as a slow-rolling boil somewhat similar to what a pan of boiling water looks like when it begins to boil.

If your pump and valve are fully open and don’t have this effect, you’re not getting enough air production. It would be best if you had a bigger pump. Remember, an assembly needs about 15 liters of air per minute. If all looks well, place your tray or tray/screen back onto the bubbler with bubbles going. You should see a bit of bubble action through the tray and screen. If not, your water may be too low. If too much, turn down the bubbler valve a tad. An improper understanding could negatively affect germination and the seeds’ ability to form and set roots into the reservoir. If your seeds are not prepared, stop here and do so. Using a scale, weigh your seeds and put them in a container for spreading. Some seeds need priming, while some can be placed on the Assembly as is. If you’re unsure about your seed type, refer to the quick-reference chart. With seeds ready, and before putting on the tray, take your sprayer, 101

filled with the Basic or Super Antifungal, and spray the tray (large seeds) or screen (all other seeds) to coat. Spraying with antifungal does two things. It helps the seeds stick as you spread them, and it coats the bottom of the seeds to begin germination. Spread your seeds onto your screen, as applicable, or directly on the tray for larger seeds. When you spread, your technique should be to lay the seeds across the surface evenly. You don’t want too many seeds clumped together in one specific area or spots of the screen without seeds. Your spreading will directly impact the appearance and performance of the grow. That said, it’s not supercritical. Move seeds around until you get the effect that suits you.

Spray the top of the spread seeds with the antifungal, thoroughly wetting, and place your cover and dome on the Assembly. Ensure your timer cycles your pump for 30 minutes on and 30 minutes off. You’re done for day 1!

102

Note: Check your microgreens and Assembly every day! Yes, every day until you’re armed with experience. Day 2  To Cover Removal Every day, remove the dome and cover to look at your microgreen seeds or plants. How often do you do it? You got it. At least once a day. :O) Microgreens & Seeds Check. Taking notes of these observations will help you remember what to expect and learn each microgreen habit quicker. I recommend it. Look at your grow every day and act accordingly: 1. Before Germination & Seeds Look Good. The seeds should appear moist; none should appear dry. The seeds’ spread should not have moved on the screen (or tray for large seeds). Spray with antifungal. Proceed to roots and reservoir check below because all is well. :O) 2. Before Germination, Seeds are Dry. If there’s drying, especially around the edges, your bubbles aren’t high enough, your reservoir is too low, or both. Take action now to correct before germination occurs, spray with antifungal, and then proceed to roots and reservoir check below. 3. Seeds Dislodged. If seeds have dislodged, it means your bubbles are too high, or your reservoir is too high, or both. It tends to occur with smaller seeds, at times. The bubble aggression and reservoir level mentioned previously are general guidelines for all 103

seeds. You’ll need to adjust it with your current grow if required. Usually, turning down the bubbler valve is sufficient if you filled your reservoir properly. It won’t happen when roots reach into the reservoir. Spray with antifungal and proceed to roots and reservoir check below. 4. Germination Slow. If the seeds are fresh and from a reputable source, it’s almost always the type of micros you’re growing take longer than you expected. Wait a day or two, and compare your expectations to the quick-reference chart. Spray with antifungal and proceed to roots and reservoir check. 5. No Germination After Days. If germination is beyond reasonable expectations, as presented in the quickreference chart, your seeds are bad. Start over with fresh seeds from a reputable source. 6. Germination Even & All Else Ok. Little cotyledons should be forming along with roots. Remember, some types of micros have root hairs that may look like fungus. Review the chapter on fighting fungus if you’re unsure! Otherwise, the grow is ideal. Spray with antifungal and proceed to roots and reservoir check below. 7. Germination Uneven. Seeds germinate at different rates, but the key here is to check for even germination. If seeds aren’t germinating evenly, and they’re all moist, your seeds are likely bad or 104

too old. If all seeds haven’t germinated within 2 days after expected in the quick-reference chart, you have to make a decision. Is the lack of germination bad enough to start over with fresh seeds or carry on with the partial germination until harvest? It’s a judgment call. 8. Infection, Mold, or Disease Present. Check for mold and disease with a critical eye every day! It can appear before germination but more often after some germination and with time. It is rare in IHG to have these issues, but if you do see any, consider the following corrective actions: a. Rinse & Increase Antifungal Frequency. Take the tray out and rinse over the sink with the sprayer or outside with a garden hose sprayer. Replace tray and use the Super Antifungal twice a day. If you attempt to “save” the grow, you will need to rinse every day or two. Peas and sunflowers are prone to issues and candidates for frequent spraying. They are sturdy and can take it. b. Start Over With the Same Seed Lot. Toss grow and attempt again, but this time prime the seeds using the chlorine bleach treatment. Your seed batch may have come from the company diseased.

105

c. Start Over with a New Seed Source. Toss grow and start over with a different batch of seeds or seeds from another company. Roots & Reservoir Check. Every day, lift the 1-inch or 2.5inch tray and look at the roots and reservoir. Again, once a day and taking notes: 1. Reservoir Clear, Roots Ok, No Smell. Done until tomorrow. 2. Reservoir Cloudy, Roots Ok, No Smell. Some micros leech color from the seed hulls, which fall back into the reservoir. You’ll get a feel for which ones do it. The Super Antifungal will also cause a slightly murky reservoir depending on how much you use; it’s normal. It’s up to you if you want to use a fresh reservoir. If so, prepare a new 1020 with the appropriate level of nutrient water—cheap insurance. Lift the bubbler and mesh tray with micros and place it in the new reservoir. The old reservoir can be drained and cleaned. 3. Reservoir Cloudy, Roots Ok, but Foul Odor Detected. Feel the roots to see if slimy. If not, take mesh tray with micros and rinse thoroughly. Transfer to a new reservoir and bubbler or reuse the same one after washing. Micros can be placed in a 1020 temporarily for this maintenance. 4. Roots Slimy, Darker than Normal, or Tips Black/Shortened. Smell and reservoir cloudiness 106

doesn’t matter here, although there’s usually both with root issues. Kill the grow; start over with a clean, sanitized Assembly. Consider where it went wrong: a. Were your seeds or seed source bad? b. Did you prime the seeds properly? c. Consider whether a bleach priming is needed. d. Review all steps to this point. Did you miss something? e. Were all the parts of the Assembly used? If you’re growing outside of IHG parameters, consider joining the club! :O) 5. Micros in Your Reservoir. You will often see little micros that have fallen into the reservoir. You can leave them if you like. They usually stay alive anyway. If it annoys you or they’re deteriorating, remove them. 6. Top Up. Check the reservoir level. You usually never have to add nutrient water until a while after germination because micros don’t drink much during the initial days. But, if the level is low, add more. 7. Bubbler Action. If most roots have reached the water, and you had valved the air down due to dislodging seeds, you can now turn bubbles back up. The roots will keep them in place at this point.

107

Every day, give the seeds or germinated micros a spray of antifungal. It’s is an essential preventative measure. Dome Removal Considerations Before we dig into the seamless transition of daily events, let’s discuss the dome's versatile use. Until now, the dome’s purpose was to help create a humid environment. It is a secondary measure to ensure an excellent environment for seeds to grow and set roots in the reservoir. There are many more uses as well. Use the dome accordingly: 1. Most Microgreens. cover is removed.

Remove the dome when the

2. Microgreens With Weak Roots. Some microgreens do not produce roots well hydroponically. When you think you’re ready to take the cover off, you need to examine the roots closely. If all of the roots haven’t reached the water, keep a clear dome on until they do. What you’re doing here is letting the light in to begin photosynthesis, which will often help these micros develop roots further. 3. Blackout Blondes. If your intent is a blonde grow, then obviously, you’ll need to keep a blackout dome on the entire grow. 4. Stem Elongation. Keeping a blackout dome on will force the micros to grow upwards trying to find light, elongate the stem, and minimize leaf growth. Stem elongation benefits are discussed in the chapter on domes. 108

Beet & Chard Grows Specifically Beet and chard are in the same family, behaving similarly to each other as microgreens. You will likely see what you’ll consider poor root formation and sketchy growth in the beginning. I wish I could tell you why, but I’ll say I’ve experienced the same pattern every grow. I think it might have to do with their evolution to (or from in the case of chard) a root crop. Growing in water is likely not advantageous to their survival, but really, who knows. It’s a guess based on my experience with root crop success in hydroponics. Follow these guidelines, have patience, and it’ll work out: 1.

The germination will not be even throughout the grow. Each seed has more than one plant per seed and may germinate up to 4 or 5. The kicker is, they are not going to germinate at the same time despite BC priming. It’s weird because they sort of catch up, and the canopy thickens by harvest despite uneven germination.

2. Not only will the germination seem off, but the little plants are delicate at first and look like there’s something wrong with them. Frustrating to see! Keep going.

109

3. Removing the cover presents a challenge. Unlike other microgreens, I don’t remember seeds ever lifting the cover. When a majority is touching the cover's bottom, I still keep in on for a couple more days. It gives those late-germinating seeds a chance to pop in the ideal environment. The others may seem squashed but do it anyway. 4. After cover removal, the roots will look sporadic. Keep the dome on for a few days till the micros green-up and gain structure while letting the lategerminating plants form more.

5. Always keep your reservoir nutrient level to the highest point! It is crucial because most roots don’t dive down very well. Keep going; it gets better, I promise. 6. Let a couple of true leaves form. Beet and chard are light crops meaning harvest weights are low. Extra leaves are worth it because of seed costs and return on investment. Plus, I’ve heard from market growers, chefs prefer it. Continuing with our brassica and pea grows now!

110

Cover Removal  Till Harvest Once your microgreens lift the cover above the mesh tray, the cover has finished its job. It applies to large seed in the tall tray as well. The cool thing is the microgreens let you know when it’s ideal for removing the cover! :O) There is no longer a need to spray antifungal unless desired. Microgreens Check. At least once a day, look at your microgreens growth taking notes, and making observations. Sound familiar? Yep, same process. At this point, your grow should be a cake-walk! But, you have to continue to check. Here are some things to look for: 1. Getting Taller & All Ok. Move on to roots and reservoir check below. 2. Some Plants Falling or Dead. This is bad! It’s the onset of Pythium. Harvest anything salvageable and start over. Do not try to save this grow. Find out why it happened. Talk to me if you can’t find the cause, but make sure you’re growing IHG, as outlined in this book first. I cannot speculate if you’re doing things differently. 3. Infection, Mold, or Disease Present. Check for infection, mold, and disease with a critical eye 111

every day. It’s typically noticed when plants are smaller, and it’s almost always on the seed before you start. Again, it is rare in IHG to have these issues, but if you do see any, consider the following corrective actions, which are the same as those listed above: a. Rinse & Increase Antifungal Frequency. Take the tray and rinse it over the sink with the sprayer or outside with a garden hose sprayer. Replace tray and use the Super Antifungal twice a day. If you attempt to “save” the grow, you will need to rinse every day, maybe every two. It can often be done with some micros like peas and sunflowers because they are sturdy and stand up to aggressive rinsing. b. Start Over With Existing Seed Lot. Toss grow and attempt again, but this time prime the seed using the chlorine bleach treatment. Your seed batch may have come from the company diseased. c. Start Over with New Seed Source. Toss grow and start over with a different batch of seed or seed from another company. 4. Harvest Time. When to harvest is a judgment call. Use the quick-reference chart for a 112

suggestion. The plants should be fully-formed representations of quality microgreens. You can harvest at the cotyledon stage, true leaf stage, or more. They can be their beautiful natural colors of blue, green, and purple or pale representations of their “lighted” cousins caused by growing only in the dark. What I’m saying is make a choice and go for it! Roots & Reservoir Check. Every day, lift the short or tall tray, as applicable, and look at the roots and reservoir. Again, once a day and taking notes. Getting déjà vu here? :O) Shake your head for a second to clear it, and let’s get back to the grow: Top Up. Check the reservoir level. Adding nutrient water at this point will become more common because the plants will be actively growing quite a bit and transpiring. Top up = add nutrient as needed. 1. Reservoir Clear, Roots Ok, No Smell. Top up. We are done until tomorrow. 2. Roots Attached to Bubbler. Peas and sunflowers are your primary concern here. Their roots are aggressive, growing quickly, especially if they’re a dense grow. If you’re checking daily, pull the mesh tray away from the bubbler before they establish. Daily checks should prevent it. If it’s too hard or you feel it’ll damage the grow, leave it till harvest. It’ll just make the harvest a bit more complicated. Top up. 113

3. Reservoir Cloudy, Roots Ok, No Smell. The microgreen may be prone to leaching. Change out as you see fit. Lack of smell is a crucial factor when roots look good. Top up. 4. Reservoir Cloudy, Odor Present, or Root Issues. You will likely not experience this unless Pythium takes hold. You may change out a cloudy reservoir, but it usually means you need to toss the grow and start over. Maximizing a Grow Maximizing a grow refers to eking out the absolute most out of your seeds and effort. It is easy with IHG! Not all microgreens respond to maximizing, but most brassicas, sunflowers, bean, and peas certainly do. Maximizing will add 2 to 3 beneficial days to most microgreens. Here’s how to work this little bit of magic often used as a regular course by many microgreen growers in the group, including me: 1.

Use full strength hydroponic nutrient from the very start. It will provide a mild improvement from halfstrength.

2. Use a heat mat that has a thermometer. Keep the probe inside the reservoir. Set the thermometer to 78° F (26° C). A couple of degrees up or down is ok too. A heat mat will quicken the grow substantially, especially if the ambient air is a fair bit colder.

114

3. When the cover comes off, keep in the dark a few more days using the blackout dome. The stem will elongate as plants attempt to reach the light, and the leaves will remain small. It helps create a larger canopy later after removing the dome. 4. Turn the bubbles up as high as they will go once roots enter the reservoir. Increased air has proven to enhance growth. 5. Give your micros the brightest light you can. The more light, the better! You may want to upgrade to more professional white growing lights. 6. For lighted grows of plants with cotyledon leaves, rub your micros. Yep, you read that right. After a couple of days of light, the micros will green up and get much more sturdy. At this point, lightly rub the tops of the micros back and forth. You’ll prevent some micros from shading others while allowing the late-bloomers a chance to catch the light at catch up. As time goes on, the rubbing will lean the micros outward, and they will spill over the sides. 7. Grow to at least one true leaf, if not two. The days of “cotyledon only” are gone. A leaf or two more doesn’t add too much if factoring in space and overall time. 8. Carefully harvest as close to the screen as possible. For large seed, take a bit more time and cut the stem as close to the roots as possible.

115

Progression Pictures by Day One of the most requested additions to my videos is the timelines of my grows. Folks want to see what the growing microgreens look like at various stages of growth, so they’ll know what to expect. For the book, I’m growing two types of microgreens that represent almost all microgreens. The brassica mix is similar to most commonly grown microgreens, so they behave the same. I think it will be of significant value to you if you see what each grow looks like from germination to harvest. I expect folks will flip to these days for comparisons to their own grows. Day 3 (2 Days After Putting on Tray)

Day 4

116

Day 5

Day 6

Day 7

117

Day 8

Day 9

Day 10 (Brassica Harvest)

118

Day 11 Pea

Day 12 (Pea Harvest)

119

Chapter 16 Quick-Reference Chart

I

Reading the Chart designed the chart to be simple to read and give pertinent information and a solid baseline for your grows. The numbers are not intended to be exact. They are a suggestion and recommendation based on my personal experience. Several environmental factors can affect a grow. For example, when it’s cooler, my harvest times take longer. Your environment, equipment, and influence will change things up to a small degree. It’s true for all gardening. So, before you dig in and start a grow, read the book and get to know IHG. Once you have, you’ll be better equipped to meet your expectations and reduce issues. The following paragraphs discuss and define the headings for the quick-reference chart on the next page: Seed Grams. It’s a suggested amount of seeds to grow measured in grams. Priming. The is my suggested way to treat your seeds before you put them on the Assembly to grow. It is proven methods I’ve found to help increase your success. If this category is blank, put it on the tray without any action—no soaking or other priming needed. A “12” indicates the 12hour soak, a “B” means the chlorine bleach treatment after a 12-hour soak, an “M” indicates mucilage removal, and the “BC” indicates the beet and chard priming.

120

Screen. Three characters can appear in this category. They are “S” for the small screen, “M” for the medium screen, and “T” for tray only. You will not use a screen for “T.” Weight. Most of the time, only a cover is required. If blank, only the cover is used, indicating no additional weight. If you see a number, it indicates the amount in pounds to add on top of a 2-pound (¼-inch thick) cover. So, a “4” in the column would mean I recommend 4 additional pounds for 6 pounds total on top of the mesh tray. If you use a heavier cover, take it into account. Germination. How long before you can expect the seeds to germinate measured in days, after placing on the tray, postpriming. Rinse. Indicates when to take the tray and micros off the bubbler to rinse. I usually do it on the sink or outside with a garden sprayer. Any number in this column, like “2” for example, means rinse every 2 days. Blank indicates no rinsing at all. Start with a light rinse and increase depending on the microgreens and the stage of its growth. For example, at 3 days, beet and chard can’t take the intensity of peas and sunflowers at 6 days. Grow Days. An expected length of time until harvest measured in days. It’s subject to personal preference and environmental differences. ROI Ounces. ROI is an acronym for “return on investment.” You can also refer to it as harvest weight or amount of product. I prefer ROI because it’s what you get at the end of 121

all your hard work. The ROI is an expected weight at harvest time measured in ounces. The ROI will change a little every time, even if you copy the previous grow because it’s also subject to environmental differences and unforeseen nuances. The format change from quick-start cards, in the previous book, to this quick-reference chart is in response to numerous requests to centralize the numbers. I understand it. FYI: Several other changes in this 2nd edition are from the feedback I’ve received and improvements from the 1 st edition. Quick-Reference Chart The quick reference chart is on the next page. It is easy to copy one page and stick it on a wall in your grow room if desired.

122

123

Chapter 17 How Can I Eat Microgreens?

S

alad seems too obvious to elaborate on, but it’s likely the primary way people eat them, so it’s worth mentioning. Add them to any salad and top with your favorite dressing to spice up an ordinary but healthy meal. To take to the next level, add different microgreen types, with varying colors and tastes, for a complex and appealing super-salad. Here’s a recipe for a dressing I use similar to those used in Japanese-style sushi and steakhouse restaurants: Carrot-Ginger Dressing 2 tablespoons minced ginger ¼ to ½ cup white vinegar 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons ketchup 2 medium carrots 1 tablespoon minced garlic ½ celery stalk Pepper to taste

½ cup minced onion 2 tablespoon soy sauce ¼ cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons sesame seed oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon sugar *Salt to taste

Blend in a blender until smooth. * Sub Multi-Micro Blended Salt (recipe below); otherwise, salt to taste.

Here’s another recipe for slaw similar to the sweet slaw you get at the fried-catfish joints: 124

MicroCole-Slaw 4 cups chopped cabbage 2 tablespoons minced onion 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon white vinegar

2 cups chopped red cabbage micros ⅔ cup miracle whip or mayo ⅓ cup sugar (to taste) ¼ teaspoon salt

Variations: Sub or add radish for spice or sunflowers for a great nutty flavor. Colored micros like red radish or red cabbage add appeal. In a bowl, mix cabbage and micros and set aside. Add remaining ingredients in a blender and mix until smooth. Pour mixture onto cabbage/micros until desired wetness. Some like it sloppy, and some barely coated.

Juicing Juicing enables you to get the benefits of microgreens while removing the texture and fiber of the green. Essentially, it’s micro-juice. Many folks like the taste of micros juiced, especially if mixed with other flavors. There are many ways you can use the nutritious juice. You could try the juice by itself, mix it with the juice of other micro-juices, add to soups and stews, or replace any dish, calling for water, with micro-juice. Yeah, that’s right; try it in cakes, bread, and so much more. Juicing is a fantastic way to add microgreens to your diet, especially if you have an aversion to many, most, or even just one or two. You can hide it in your dishes. Chopping/Mincing Chopping and mincing are similar to juicing in every way as far as uses go, except you keep the entire microgreen, fiber, and all. You could coarsely chop in a food processor or use a knife. I do this to add some oomph to soups. I love the 125

tiny pieces of goodness floating around, and it brings such rich flavor(s) to the broth, thickening it and making it hearty. I’m getting hungry typing right now! If you puree the micros, you can make a great smoothie by adding fruit such as apple or banana, and even nuts. Recipes abound on the internet. I make a killer sweet-bread recipe too. I mean, seriously, it’s delicious: Sunflower Bread 1½ cups all-purpose flour 2 eggs 1 ¼ cup minced sunflower micros 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ cup water ½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 ¼ cups sugar ⅓ cup peanut oil ¼ teaspoon baking powder ½ cup chopped pecans 1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Coat bottom and sides of 8” x 4” x 2” loaf pan with oil. Mix dry ingredients in one bowl and wet ingredients in another. Fold wet into dry, stirring slightly with a fork, until moistened, but not until smooth. Lumps are okay and preferred. Bake for 50 to 55 minutes until a toothpick comes out clean when pierced in the middle.

Beef Vegetable Soup (Quick & Easy) *1 pound ground beef 2 tablespoons olive oil tomatoes 4 cups cubed potatoes 1 stick chopped celery mixed) 2 medium sliced carrots 4 cups beef stock/bouillon

1 medium onion, chopped 4, 15-ounce cans diced Italian 4, 15-ounce cans of water 2 cups microgreens (any type or ½ cup white vinegar 1 teaspoon black pepper

126

**1-2 teaspoons hot pepper like Cayenne (I use California Bryan) flakes. *Sub cuts, strips, or cubes of beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, or duck ** A little heat makes it so much better for me. Adjust to taste. In a large pan, brown the ground beef and drain fat. Add onion and olive and sauté mixture until onions are translucent. Add four cans of diced tomatoes and four cans of water. I use the tomato cans to measure water. Add remaining ingredients and simmer until veggies are soft. Hint: Give your soup depth with multiple types of micros, a little radish for spice, cabbage for a German-like soup, or some broccoli for a more familiar flavor. Mix and match till heart’s content.

Dehydrating It’s easy if you have a dehydrator or use the oven at low temperature. What you’re doing is merely removing moisture and keeping almost all of the goodness! And, to top it off, your dehydrated micro flavor is super concentrated—what a way to add flavor to a dish. So, how to use them, right? The simple answer is: In everything! I have created what I call micro-flakes. All I did was dehydrate several varieties of micros and grind them in a blender to powder. It’s the same as making pepper flakes. Now I have radish, fenugreek, cabbage, sunflowers, broccoli, peas, and others dried and mixed in a container. Once done, add them in or on anything you can imagine. Here are a few cool things to do with the flakes: 127

Multi-Micro Blended Salt *1 cup Pink Himalayan Salt 1 cup of many types of dehydrated and ground microgreens. Blend in a blender to combine. Use in place of ordinary salt. *Pink Himalayan Salt is incredible, but you can sub with any salt.

Micro Dipping Sauce 1 tablespoon Microgreen-Infused Salt 1 clove Garlic ¼ cup Olive Oil Crush and mince garlic and place on a shallow, small plate. Add olive oil and microgreens salt; stir lightly. Use with toasted bread or cheese bread.

If you think outside of the box, there are almost limitless uses for microgreens. They provide so many healthy food choices for your family. Please, give it a shot and go wild.

128

Chapter 18 Support

I

want to offer more value through support options I’ll list below to supplement this book. Whether you use them or not is obviously up to you, but they are here because I think they’ll help. Many requests led to this chapter on support. Where to Find Product Almost everything in this book covers parts, pieces, or products. To construct or produce anything, you need materials. It’s true of any endeavor. In the case of microgreens, you will have to make some purchases of your own, and I know you understand it without me having to tell you. :O) We’ve already discussed trays, pumps, timers, lights, ingredients to formulate the Super Antifungal, and much more. If I don’t tell you where to get it all, it makes your job harder to build and start your exciting new adventure into microgreens. For many, where to find something is so very important. They tell me. Affiliates - Understanding Their Role. I am an affiliate of several companies because I believe in them enough to endorse them. As an affiliate, I get a small referral percentage of sales if you buy from my store or linked references. It isn’t much, honestly, but it is helpful to my family and lets me keep making videos and pioneering new gardening methods. If I tell you I’m an affiliate, it doesn’t dig into your pocketbook. You’ll get an advantage. In most 129

cases, you’ll be taken to a site where you see what I use. It’ll give you great detail. From that detail and visual representation of a product, you then have the option to purchase on the spot, at no extra cost to you, or go shopping somewhere else. In other cases, you may get a discount by accessing through me. I have heard the occasional, “That’s self-serving.” comment. I’m glad it doesn’t happen often. I’ve considered that point of view often and even understand it to a small degree. But, here’s the thing, I’ve researched quite a bit, trialed products for years, and created affiliate relationships I think will offer an extra value that doesn’t cost you a dime. You’re getting everything centralized. I’m going to be transparent for the following affiliates and other locations to access product or information. I know you get bombarded daily with “buy me, buy me, buy me” from commercials, signs, and even robocalls from solicitors, but the most common question I get—“Where can I find…?”—so I’d be remiss if I didn’t share all of it in the book. YouTube Creator. My YouTube channel is “Hydroponic Gardening & More with Brent.” Greater than 99% of YouTube creators monetize their channels, and Google pays us based on views and advertising on our content. The better creator you are, the more money you can make. YouTube is a platform to educate and share. There are lots of my public videos on my channel, and they are quite helpful for many. Consider subscribing. I’ll continue to upload microgreen grows there. My newest videos will have up to date links in the description for all the parts, pieces, and product listed for the affiliates discussed below. These 130

affiliates, and book links, are certainly snapshots in time and subject to change. Again, the latest is on YouTube—one stop! :O) Amazon Affiliate. Almost all of the Amazon platform is available for me to add to my “store.” In actuality, my store is Amazon, but tailored and concentrated for us. It’s the same products you’d typically get on your own, but my store is simply in one location for ease of shopping or reviewing. Again, there’s no extra cost to you. Even if you don’t purchase, it shows precisely what I’m using with Amazon’s considerable detail, so if you prefer, you can use that information to find it somewhere else. Store link: https://www.amazon.com/shop/hydroponicgardeningmo rewithbrent Bootstrap Farmer Trays Affiliate: I could not create the Assembly, in the current form, without Bootstrap Farmer trays. I developed IHG around them. They are awesome and heavy-duty. You can Google them and purchase outside of me indeed, but if you want to send a token to Gina and me without costing you a penny, please use this link, which is also in every YouTube video of mine: https://shrsl.com/26egl True Leaf Market: If you want a sure thing with seeds, this company is the closest I’ve come to it! It’s not perfect, but you can rely on them. Mountain Valley Seed Company was the original name before merging with other venues to become True Leaf Market. Mountain Valley Seed Company 131

is the seeds side still, and it says it on the packaging you’ll receive. https://www.pntra.com/t/TUJGRklGSkJHRUxIRkVCRkpIRk1 K Mars Hydro Lighting Affiliate: If you need high quality LED grow lighting, I've trialed Mars-Hydro for a while now. I’m also using one of their tent kits, and it’s great. Both are the highest of quality. You will receive a 3% discount if you use my “HGMB” code. Not much, but it’s something. While I am still using LED tubes quite successfully, as outlined in the area chapter on lighting, I use Mars Hydro for other hydroponics and in my tent for microgreens. It is next-level lighting that will certainly help maximize any growing needs. http://bit.ly/37Pa0ng Me, Myself & I. I am the only source for pre-cut, food-grade screens and concentrated Super Antifungal. The Super Antifungal I sell is the same recipe here in the book, only concentrated—4 ounces make 2 gallons. I am also currently building and shipping Assemblies as “kits” for those not inclined to fabricate your own. I am not producing Assemblies to generate a booming business of any size, I assure you. I want to keep my business small in retirement for a little supplemental income and help those not inclined to do it themselves. It’s an option if you desire it.

132

Well, our textual journey together is over. I sincerely appreciate the purchase of my book. Thank you. I hope it brings life-changing wellness or profit if you’re selling, far beyond your investment with me and this book. You have an interest in microgreens for a reason, and whatever it may be, I wish you all the very best.

Critique Friendly. Despite extensive editing, there are likely going to be some mistakes in the book. Anyone noticing grammar mistakes or any other issues, and you feel compelled to share, please do. My email is just below. I’ll fix it and re-upload. I don’t mind, I promise.

133

I asked my grandson Joel Bradley Dennis, age 6,

to draw me some microgreens for my book cover.

This is the unedited version of the cover.

He completed the crayon original January 17th, 2021, after four weeks of hard work.

I love that kid!

134