Lonely Planet The Cities Book [2 ed.] 9781787011663

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Night falls on the Thames and such iconic city sights as the London Eye and Houses of Parliament / TONY C FRENCH | GETTY IMAGES

Contents Abu Dhabi Addis Ababa Alexandria Amman Amsterdam Anchorage Antigua Arequipa Asheville Ashgabat Asmara Athens Austin Baku Bangkok Barcelona Beijing Beirut Belfast Belgrade Belize City Bengaluru Berlin Bern Bogotá Bordeaux Bratislava Brussels Bucharest Budapest

Buenos Aires Bukhara Cairns Cairo Cape Town Cardiff Cartagena Cayenne Charleston Chiang Mai Chicago Christchurch Christiansted Copenhagen Cork Cuzco Dakar Dar es Salaam Delhi Dhaka Dubai Dublin Dubrovnik Dunedin Edinburgh Esfahan Fez Florence Galway George Town Glasgow Gonder Granada

Hamburg Hangzhou Hanoi Havana Heidelberg Helsinki Hiroshima Ho Chi Minh City Hobart Hoi An Hong Kong İstanbul Jaipur Jerusalem Johannesburg Kagoshima Kairouan Kampala Kandy Kathmandu Kigali Kolkata Kotor Kraków Kuala Lumpur Kyiv Kyoto La Paz Lahore Las Vegas Leipzig Lhasa Lima

Lisbon Livingstone Ljubljana London Los Angeles Luang Prabang Luxembourg City Macau Madang Madrid Male Manchester Maputo Marrakesh Mecca Melbourne Mendoza Mexico City Miami Milan Monaco Montevideo Montréal Moscow Mumbai Munich Muscat Nairobi Naples Nara Nashville New Orleans New York

Nicosia Nuuk Oaxaca Ohrid Oslo Oxford Panama City Paris Phnom Penh Prague Pyongyang Quebéc City Quito Reykjavík RĪga Rio de Janeiro Rome Saint-Denis Salvador da Bahia San Cristóbal San Francisco San Juan San Salvador San Sebastián Santa Fe Santiago de Chile Santo Domingo São Paulo Sarajevo Savannah Seattle Seoul Seville

Shanghai Siena SighiŞoara Singapore Sofia Split St Petersburg Stockholm Swakopmund Sydney Taipei Tallinn Tbilisi Tehran Tel Aviv Thimphu Tirana Tokyo Toronto Ulaanbaatar Ushuaia Valetta Valparaiso Vancouver Varanasi Venice Vienna Vilnius Warsaw Washington DC Wellington Willemstad Windhoek

Yangon Yerevan Yogyakarta York Zanzibar

A Buddhist monk sweeping the Red Chapel clean at the 16th-century Wat Xieng Thong complex in Luang Prabang / SIMON IRWIN | LONELY PLANET

Intro When you look at a city, it’s like reading the hopes, aspirations and pride of everyone who built it. – Hugh Newell Jacobsen The Cities Book is a celebration. Of the physical form, in stone, glass, metal and wood, that is taken by these remarkable spiritual, cultural, political and technological bastions. Of the people whose energy spills out into the city, transforming itself into music, art and culture. Of the myriad sights, smells, sounds and other temptations they offer. By celebrating the majesty of cities on every continent, we marvel at the contribution they have made to the collective richness of humankind over more than six millennia. We begin with a look at the evolution of cities – their roots in the first civilisations, the characteristics we associate with the great cities of today, and the possible directions they will take in the future. According to the UN, just over half the world’s population was urban in 2014, compared with onethird in 1950. By 2050, city dwellers are predicted to comprise two-thirds of the populace. Our urban ancestors could not possibly have predicted the way in which cities would change the world we live in.

The Colosseum is a compelling reminder of the power of Ancient Rome / LOTTIE DAVIES | LONELY PLANET

Past The story of how cities evolved is the story of civilisation. We can glimpse the past in the preserved walls of castles, palaces and places of worship that have survived, albeit haphazardly, for centuries, and which influence the colour and flavour of our present. Cuzco in Peru is one example. The city’s strongest walls remain those constructed by the Inca, whose stone monoliths were carved by hand and laid so precisely, without mortar, that it is impossible to slide paper between them. These mighty stones continue to make up the streets and foundations of newer buildings to this day. Paradoxically, with the advent of sedentary settlements, where people resided in large groups instead of roaming the countryside as small bands of hunter-gatherers, came the advent of inter-city travel. Initially people travelled (as they still do) for trade, war or religious pilgrimages, but eventually cities gave birth to the leisured classes who could travel for curiosity and pleasure. Even in ancient times there were hoteliers. Sumerian cities Current archaeological records indicate that the oldest cities are those found along the banks of the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers in Mesopotamia, modern Iraq. The great Sumerian capital of Uruk grew around fertile shores lined with irrigation ditches dug centuries before. These ditches, filled with water from the Euphrates River, allowed the Sumerians to farm the land, producing surpluses of food for the construction workers, possibly slaves, to raise the world’s first cities. The most ancient of these was Uruk, famous for its giant defensive walls, luscious gardens and sophistication of its ruling elite, including the god-king Gilgamesh, who was the subject of the world’s oldest epic, the Song of Gilgamesh, still in print today. Excavation of the site where the city once stood, an area covering 450 hectares, has yielded astonishing finds, such as a cuneiform tablet containing what is regarded as the most accurate description of the Tower of Babel, an architectural feat referenced in the Bible. After more than 5000 years, the legacy of Sumerian culture has remained potent. Not only did they invent the wheel and the first written language (Sumerian cuneiform script emerged

around 3500 BC), but also the sexagesimal number system, still used to measure time. Rome – antiquity’s great melting pot Sicilian writer Vincenzo Salerno said that the blueprint for Western civilisation was the society of ancient Rome. The Romans gave us our alphabet (minus u and w), and many of the words we still use are derived from ancient Latin. They gave us the 12-month lunar calendar; the rudiments of classical architecture; straight roads; a system of government; literature; public-ablution facilities; and endless subject matter for Shakespearean plays and even movies. At the heart of the mighty empire was the imperial capital, home of the Senate and generations of megalomaniac emperors. Ancient Rome’s former glory is still visible in the modern city, notably the remains of the Forum, Pantheon and Colosseum. The Romans were not the first people to become civilised, though, and nor did they develop in a vacuum. They were great assimilators of the skills, knowledge, literary conventions and even deities from neighbouring or past civilisations – a process hastened through conquest – in particular the Greek and Egyptian civilisations, centred on Athens and Alexandria, which were already melting pots of ideas, racial groups and culture. Alexandria the Great In 332 BC, Alexander the Great thrashed the Persians and conquered Egypt for the Greeks. The following year, after being crowned pharaoh, he ordered the construction of a fortified port which he named, in a moment of egotism, Alexandria. The city was to replace Memphis as the capital of ancient Egypt and, had Alexander not died of fever during the conquest of Babylon, would have become the capital of his enormous empire. During antiquity the Egyptian capital was famous for its wonderful papyrus and great medicines, perfume, jewellery and gold work. The city was, and still is, legendary for the Pharos Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, and for its library, established under Ptolemy III. Less than 500 years after Ptolemy Soter ascended the throne, Alexandria was reduced to rubble, destroyed through a combination of Caesar’s aggression, petty-minded Christian rebels, earthquake and flood. The Egyptian city we know today as Alexandria bears almost no trace of its

amazing history. But through the advanced system of trade and communications that existed, some of the knowledge contained in the library survived. Then as now, the great powers adopted and adapted the successful tricks and strategies of their contemporaries, ensuring that the legacies of civilisations dating back millennia would be recorded. Lost cities – Atlantis to Great Zimbabwe For thousands of years, fabled lost cities have gripped our imagination. Even Plato (427–347 BC) pondered how advanced civilisations could just be mysteriously wiped out. The source of the legend of Atlantis stems from his account: In this island of Atlantis was a great, wonderful empire which had ruled over the island and several others, and over parts of the continent… But there occurred violent earthquakes and floods, and in a single day and night of misfortune… the island of Atlantis… disappeared in the depths of the sea. There are still people out there trying to find this ancient utopia, and over the years a spate of potential Atlantises have been found in waters across the world. The jury is still out on this legendary city’s existence, but strange structures discovered in Japanese waters off Yonaguni do appear to be manmade. Though not enough to signify the existence of a whole city, the stone ruins’ estimated age, circa 10,000 years, represents another conundrum for those tracking the chronology of ancient human civilisation. Each new archaeological find is a puzzle, and as likely to inspire fear and prejudice as it is joy. Take the case of Great Zimbabwe in Africa. The ruins, with their massive curved walls raised without mortar, weren’t discovered by Europeans until the late 19th-century. A full exploration of the site, conducted by J Theodore Bent, an amateur archaeologist bankrolled by British imperialist Cecil Rhodes (a notorious racist), concluded that the enclosures were the work either of Phoenicians or Egyptians, despite unearthing masses of evidence that pointed to their indigenous origins. The inability of conquering civilisations to appreciate the achievements of those they have conquered has added to the numbers of lost cities and ruined sites on all continents. The World Heritage-listed site at Machu Picchu was once the spiritual capital of the Incan population that was decimated by the Spanish. With the Inca gone and their knowledge lost, the ruins they left behind can never be interpreted with any certainty. But perhaps that only

adds to the allure of the lost city.

Manhattan’s High Line Park was built on one of New York’s old elevated rail tracks / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Present In the days of the European Grand Tour of the 19th century, young aristocrats would complete their education by travelling to the great cities of the Continent to study their history and art. But travel was still time-consuming, difficult and expensive, and therefore only available to the privileged classes. Today, modern transport means that we can travel between cities in hours, not days. Recent travel trends show that short-break city trips are one of the most popular kinds of travel, and that the main motivators are education and the exploration other cultures, escaping the stresses of everyday life, and fulfilling a sense of adventure. Travel has had a considerable impact on people’s lives, helping define a social conscience and positively impacting personal goals and values. Stormy weather Back in 2004, the reality of a disaster such as that which may have destroyed Alexandria and Atlantis was beamed into TV sets around the world. The devastating tsunami that struck in December that year, causing widespread coastal damage, affecting 12 countries and causing the loss of hundreds of thousands of lives, has been followed by further brutal natural disasters, including Hurricanes Katrina and Rita in 2005; the catastrophic earthquakes in Sichuan, 2008, Haiti, 2010 and Japan, 2011; and Cyclone Nargis in 2008 – all of which caused serious destruction in urban areas. When Katrina lashed into New Orleans, it was confirmation that even cities with significant defences could not take their safety for granted. The historic city lost a large number of its priceless old buildings, became engulfed by toxic waters, and many inhabitants suffered physical and psychological damage. The rebuilding process has resulted in new, vastly improved flood defences, though the New York Times reported in 2015 that ‘old inequities have proved to be resilient’ across the city as a whole. If New Orleans still needs help choosing its future direction, it could do a lot worse than turn to the example set by the place that has been named the world’s most livable city for the past six years, Melbourne.

Standards for living In the early 1990s, Danish urban planner Jan Gehl was asked by Melbourne’s City Council to evaluate the Australian city and propose a plan for making it a much more pleasant place to live. The city wanted to inject a few of the features for which Copenhagen was famous: a transport network that helped people use bicycles and public transport rather than cars to get to work, and a city centre that was a people-friendly place to live. Any visitor to Melbourne today can see the results of Gehl’s consultation: a thriving cafe culture and nightlife, a city centre that isn’t dominated by the automobile, and a population that loves its city, which is now ranked as one of the most desirable places to live in the world. The Economist Intelligence Unit’s survey, published annually, assesses living conditions in 140 cities around the world by measuring the essence of livability in terms of citizens’ quality of life, tied to 30 factors concerning safety, health care, education, infrastructure (transportation, communication, water and sanitation), the environment (green spaces and clean air), affordable housing and meaningful employment. In the 2016 survey, Melbourne was again the highest ranked city, and a further two Australian cities (Adelaide and Perth) featured in the top 10. Alongside Australia, Canada has some of the most livable places in the world, with Vancouver, Toronto and Calgary ranked third, fourth and joint-fifth respectively. Auckland in New Zealand was eighth, while the remainder of the top ten were European: Vienna, Helsinki and Hamburg. Rapt in wander Cities are places to wander, without a map, relishing the freedom that comes of being lost in a strange new world. Whether you’re taking a leisurely stroll along the wide, cobblestone pathways of Antigua or letting a doe-eyed dog lead you aimlessly around the busy streets of Bangkok, or walking through a canyon of skyscrapers on New York’s High Line urban park, exploring on foot can easily be the highlight of any trip around a city. The best thing about walking is that you have control. When you come across something interesting you can stop and check it out, take your time and savour the experience. Often the most ancient cities are the most rewarding to walk through. Perhaps it’s because they were built for walking, in a time before cars were invented and carriages and horses were reserved

for a small elite. Small cities also lend themselves to walking, as it is easy to learn your way around and to get a feel for their human scale. Walking allows us to meditate and absorb the ambience of a place, particularly in holy cities. Passing along the decorated walls of Varanasi in India, for example, winding through the hustle and bustle, myriad temples and sumptuous buildings can be a dreamlike experience. In Mecca, a city where you are required to walk, the sense of renewal and rejuvenation comes from the river of humanity you will find yourself caught up in during the Hajj pilgrimage alongside well over two million Muslim pilgrims. Tasty travel A trip to any city would be much the worse for not savouring the flavours favoured by the locals. The quality of a city’s restaurants can reveal much about its inhabitants – the importance of their traditions and their openness to new ideas. Many cities in this book would claim to be top or near the top of the epicurean food chain. New York, Paris, London, Toronto, Melbourne and Montréal would stake a fierce claim, as would San Francisco. Some cities have nice weather, others have nice beaches, but San Francisco has both (most of the time) and great food to boot. Of course, sampling a city’s cuisine isn’t always about eating the very best. The locals in any city have their own peculiar favourites, often in marked contrast to all the grand fare served up by gastronomic wizards in the finest restaurants. Sometimes it’s all about discovering the local secrets, trying something a little different that you wouldn’t find at home. In celebration of diversity There’s something about Sydney’s Mardi Gras and Rio’s Carnaval that makes them the antithesis of the country village where everyone knows your name. One of the great opportunities that cities offer new residents is the chance to be themselves. Sharing a living space with millions of others is often a profoundly liberating experience. Anonymity allows for freedom and the chance to become the person you want to be. Cities have a long history of attracting people who are seeking a fresh start or need to outrun the demons of prejudice and intolerance more common in villages and rural areas. During medieval times throughout Europe, peasants, not to mention thieves and vagabonds, would escape the attentions of

despotic landlords by fleeing to the cities, hence the old expression ‘city air is free air’. Cities are centres of migration, from rural areas and from abroad. The relative peace and stability that is enjoyed by people of different races, sexual orientation, cultural backgrounds and political views, who live together side by side in thousands of cities worldwide, is a wonderful advertisement for urbanisation. Endless nights No matter how many natural, cultural or culinary charms a city may have, it is often judged by the quality of its nightlife. And having explored the delights of your chosen city by day, it’s only natural that you should want to check out what happens between dusk and dawn, just to make sure you haven’t missed anything. Some of the best nightlife can be found in the cities where you’d least expect it. Take Belgrade for example. Along the Danube are dozens of splavovi (floating raft clubs) blaring out funky, folksy Balkan beats as they slide out of view. In contrast, you expect New York to deliver – and it does. The world’s most extravagant city has it all, 24/7.

Supertree Grove at Gardens by the Bay’s 101 hectares of green space in the centre of Singapore / KENNY TEO | GETTY IMAGES

Future Having lured us out of the wild and into homes that for many are packed with creature comforts, fridges, running hot water, electricity, heating, superfast broadband and the rest, what more does the city have up its sleeve? One thing is certain – there will be change. The challenges for the future faced by cities mainly revolve around sustainability and managing growing populations. The UN Conference on Housing and Sustainable Urban Development took place in Quito, Ecuador in October 2016, following the adoption of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. A number of goals were set to ensure safe, affordable, accessible and sustainable housing, transport systems and public spaces, as well as safeguarding cities’ cultural heritage and reducing the impact of natural disasters. Elsewhere, at the World Cities Summit of 2016, in Singapore, delegates (mostly mayors and civic leaders) identified five challenges that cities face: transportation planning and development; economic development and job creation; financing infrastructure projects; housing supply and affordability; ageing populations. Clean and sustainable cities Of course, making cities cleaner, more sustainable and thus more livable would seem to be entwined with all these targets. The UN Habitat programme has reported that 75% of energy consumption is attributable to cities and they emit 50-60% of all greenhouses gases. At the same time, cities – highly vulnerable to climate change – are at the forefront of implementing innovative solutions to minimise their carbon footprints. Collaborative action and the sharing of ideas is key and with this in mind the C40 network has been established to bring together 90 of the world’s major cities to share ideas and innovations. The network maintains that urban density can actually result in a better quality of life and a lower carbon footprint when coupled with more efficient infrastructure and planning. There are reasons for optimism, as some of the world’s major urban centres have introduced strong targets for cutting emissions. New York announced plans to reduce its gas emissions by 80% by 2050

compared with 2005; LA set a target of a 45% reduction in emissions between 1990 and 2035; Seoul has planned 40% cuts from 1990 to 2030; and Hong Kong announced 50–60% cuts from 2005 to 2020. China has also introduced a low-carbon city project for many of its biggest cities including Tianjin, Chongqing, Shenzhen, Xiamen, Hangzhou, Nanchang, Guiyang and Baoding. So what measures can these cities take to meet these targets, to reduce waste and become more sustainable overall? Providing an efficient public transportation system is a good place to start, at the same time encouraging the take-up of electric vehicles and cycling. Buildings can be constructed from eco-friendly materials (wood from sustainably managed forest, for example) and be equipped with solar panels and rainwater-recycling facilities. Investment in urban farming will reduce the carbon footprint of food transportation, while dirt beds for greenery on roofs can hold rainfall and reduce pollution. Cities can take measures to encourage recycling and introduce more radical steps such as banning plastic bags, while an increase in the amount of open and green space is a given. Combating air pollution is also a huge challenge as the urban population grows. The World Health Organisation reports that only 12% of cities worldwide meet its guideline levels for clean air. However, there are a number of initiatives being introduced that can positively impact this issue. Again, a clean and efficient public transport system is an obvious step, as is the establishment of cycle and pedestrian networks. Copenhagen and Oslo now prioritise building cycle routes over roads, and Zurich and Helsinki are just two places discouraging private vehicles by introducing financial penalties. Low-emission zones for polluting vehicles, such as those in Paris and London, are another step, as is the retrofitting and prohibiting of polluting vehicles – Delhi has phased out its diesel taxi fleet while Bangalore is converting its 6000 buses to run on compressed natural gas. As urban centres grow, enforcing clean targets in the construction industry is another essential. Hand in hand with these civic initiatives should be an attempt to educate individual citizens in lowering their own carbon footprint and reducing waste. The UK’s Climate Care Trust offers individuals a way to live guilt-free in the city by simultaneously selling carbon offsets while funding projects that help to reduce emissions elsewhere. Using the trust’s Carbon Calculator, you

can work out the amount of carbon dioxide emissions for which you are responsible by entering how much electricity, petrol, gas and oil you use per annum. The calculator then works out how much carbon dioxide was ejected into the atmosphere as a result, revealing a total in pounds that can be paid in the form of carbon offsets. The Air Travel calculator reveals how much carbon dioxide you’re responsible for if you take a flight from, say, Boston to Delhi. Such a journey would emit 3.15 tonnes of carbon dioxide and cost £23.61 to offset. New real estate Technology moves ahead in leaps and bounds, and perhaps the only thing that can limit a city in the modern age is the imaginations (and finances) of the people who are building it. Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s extraordinary developments in Dubai are well documented, securing the city’s reputation as a top tourist destination and fantasy playground for the fabulously wealthy. Another epic urban-development project is Songdo IBD near Seoul in South Korea. Construction began on the 556-hectare landfill in 2005 and had attracted 90,000 residents by 2017. When complete it is planned to house almost half a million people and be a picturesque, high-density economic hub to rival Hong Kong. As well as being incredibly technologically advanced, the city has some exciting innovations in terms of sustainability and green initiatives. There’s a waste-processing pipe system that sucks all household refuse direct from kitchens to eco-friendly waste-processing centres. City planners boast that residents will always face just a 15-minute walk between home, work, school and leisure, and 40% of Songdo IBD will be green space. More innovative new urban centres are being constructed or are planned in China, across Africa and in India, where the ruling BJP has ambitiously promised ‘100 new smart cities’. Many such projects are private-sector initiatives, however. Where in the past real estate developers would build houses, offices and apartments, it seems that the 21st century has ushered in a new era of real estate where developers construct entire cities. Anyone who has played Sim City knows the allure of being able to construct their own metropolis. For an increasing number of people, the fun is turning into reality. Constructing cities started off as the preserve of warrior god-kings, then passed into the hands of elected politicians, and now it seems anyone

with enough passion, perseverance and financial backing can give it a go No two cities are the same. Some have great food, others great nightlife, some stunning architecture, some are rich with history and others have an eye on the future. Cities are individuals. Like a human being, a city is a mass of genes, chosen at random by forces beyond our control, fused together in a secret furnace, acted on by nature and reared through infinite probabilities of nurture before finally growing up and making its own way in the world. Only by taking an interest in someone, spending time with them, observing their mannerisms, conversing with them, engaging with their likes and dislikes, strengths and weaknesses, learning their idiosyncrasies and habits, listening to them sing in the shower and snore at night, only by walking the path with them and imagining what it would be like to wear their shoes, can you begin to realise how special someone is. And the city is the same, except maybe a little bit bigger.

Tony’s 10 Lonely Planet’s co-founder, Tony Wheeler, selects 10 of the cities that have most excited and intrigued him. In alphabetical order, here are his most memorable metropolises.

01 BERLIN I never got to Berlin in the Iron Curtain era, when there were two Berlins, East and West. It’s one of my great travel regrets. In 1991, two years after the Wall came down, Berlin friends dragged me back to Berlin from Frankfurt. ‘You can still feel the difference East to West,’ they insisted. ‘Wait any longer and they’ll merge, right now it’s still different worlds zwischen Ost und West.’ They were right, even the number of Trabants in the streets told the tale. I didn’t miss a more recent opportunity to be in the right place when a potentially major world change swept through. On US election day in November 2016, I was there on the frontline, in San Francisco.

02 DUBAI The glitzy mega-city of the United Arab Emirates tends to divide people. Many visitors – and in Dubai nearly everybody is a visitor, Gulf Arabs are a small minority – love the place whether they’re short-term visitors or longterm workers. The short termers are having a great vacation and ignoring comparisons to Blackpool or Las Vegas. The long-term developing-world workers may be treated like dogs and worked like slaves, but they are sending home bags of money. Then there’s the small minority who hate the place and everything it stands for with a passion. I try to be ambivalent. It’s now 20 years since my first visit, so although I don’t go back far enough to have seen Dubai when it was a mud-and-coral fort and palace surrounded by a bunch of tents beside the Dubai Creek, I’ve certainly seen some changes. Last visit I rode the state-of-the-art Dubai Metro, had a look at one Dubai absurdity (the Palms land reclamation), tried another absurdity (the Mall of the Emirates ski runs) and was relieved to find I could still shuttle across

Dubai Creek in a traditional abra. At least those timeworn wooden ferries have survived.

03 GEORGE TOWN It’s often referred to as Penang, but that’s the island, just a quick ferry ride (much more romantic than the bridge) from mainland Malaysia. I first turned up there in 1974, having trekked north through Sumatra, researching the very first edition of Lonely Planet’s Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. Over all return trips the feel, the essence, the spirit of George Town has survived. It’s a delightfully Chinese regional town, far better preserved than the much larger and statistically far more Chinese Singapore to the south. Wandering the central streets with their evocative ‘five foot ways’ is always a delight and recently street art has become a major attraction. Although the city is still a great centre for backpacker retreats, just like on my very first visit, today it’s also crowded with classy boutique hotels.

04 HOBART It’s Australia’s smallest state capital, but also Australia’s second oldest city, only Sydney pre-dates it. Hobart has Australian history in a compact package. The harbourside looks exactly the way a busy port should look, especially Christmas to New Year when it’s the finishing line for the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race, one of the great ocean classics and, yes, I did it once. Despite all the city attractions, Hobart is also important as a jumping-off point whether it’s pulling on your boots before tackling some of Australia’s best bushwalks or putting on your cold weather gear to head down to Antarctica. There is, however, one Hobart attraction no visitor should miss, David Walsh’s amazing personal art collection in the Museum of Old & New Art. The controversial and much talked about MONA has quickly become the city’s number one temptation.

05 HONG KONG I’m often asked what has been the biggest change in my travelling life and it’s easy to suggest the internet, the ability to do so many travel things easily

and instantly. Or the arrival of jumbo jets and then the proliferation of lowcost carriers making it possible to go further, go cheaper. But to my mind the really big change, and it’s taken place since my first visit to Hong Kong, is the opening up of China. Before the doors opened, almost 20% of the world’s population was a mystery zone. Not only is Hong Kong one of the prime gateways to and from China, it was also the original Alice in Wonderland rabbit hole into the forbidden kingdom. In the 1980s, it was Chungking Mansions in Kowloon, that tatty warren of local enterprises and dirt-cheap guest houses, where pioneering independent travellers secured their highly unofficial China visas.

06 MECCA There are about 30 cities in The Cities Book that I haven’t yet visited, with many of them on my wish list (Asmara at the top). I’m astonished that I’ve never managed to see some of them: Québec City, Charleston, Kampala and Leipzig for starters. And one I’m pretty sure I’ll never visit: Mecca. Like any keen traveller I’m in awe of Sir Richard Burton, the translate-the-Kama-Sutra Burton, not the Elizabeth-Taylor-serial-husband Burton. Sir Richard’s preparations for his visit in the 1850s included an in-depth study of Islam, learning Arabic, and being circumcised. That’s serious planning. But I have visited the other Saudi forbidden city, Medina, if flying in to Medina Airport counts. The airport is outside the infidel-free zone so that was OK. I rented a car and asked directions to Madain Saleh, the Saudi Arabian version of Jordan’s Petra. ‘Left out of the airport and take the freeway to Medina,’ the rent-a-car clerk instructed. ‘Then take the turn-off to Madain Saleh.’ ‘But what if I miss the turn?’ I queried, ‘I don’t want to die.’ ‘You won’t miss the turn,’ I was told. He was right, a few kilometres down the road, a sign across the freeway announced in large letters: ‘All Non-Believers Take Next Exit.’

07 NEW YORK CITY On my first visit I would have been somewhere short of my 10th birthday and it was a blur of taxis, the Empire State Building, and this amazing thing in our hotel room: a television. Today, I’m past my 30th visit to the Big Apple and it never ceases to delight. On a recent visit I walked the length of

Broadway, the only street that runs from one end of Manhattan all the way to the other. I started by looking across to the Statue of Liberty and 13 miles (22km) later crossed the bridge into the Bronx. Next trip perhaps I’ll cycle the periphery? I’ve also been a speaker at the New York Yacht Club (about archaeology not yachting), eaten at many restaurants, drunk in far too many bars, gone to comedy clubs and caught a New York Yankees game. I’ve travelled around New York City by bus, on the subway, by ferry, by bicycle and on foot. I’ve flown in and out of the three main airports – LaGuardia, Newark and Kennedy, my first visit was to Idlewild, long before it became JFK and just once I arrived there on Concorde. I’ve even sailed out of New York past the Statue of Liberty and on to Europe on a Cunard liner. But I’ve never stayed longer than two weeks, so a long visit, say three months, is still on the wish list.

08 PANAMA CITY I was in the region, I had a few days to spare, the new Panama Canal locks were almost ready to open and I had always wanted to travel through the canal. Plus, the city had been getting a lot of interesting publicity with comparisons to Dubai. This, the stories said, was the equivalent go-ahead city for Central America. The canal trip, old city, bars and restaurants all more than met expectations, and I’d not realised this was such an important birdwatching centre. ‘The canal is where the North American Rockies meet the South American Andes, so you get birds from both continents,’ my birdwatching guide insisted. But the big surprise came on day one when Panama City was suddenly front page news on the world’s newspapers due to something called the Panama Papers. I raced around to the Mossack Fonseca office, ground zero of the scandal, to take a selfie.

09 PYONGYANG It’s not the most beautiful, the most enjoyable or the most entertaining city I’ve visited, but hands down Pyongyang is the wackiest. I’ve only visited the North Korean capital once and I’m certain I wouldn’t be welcome back for a return visit, but why go to Hollywood or Las Vegas, two cities of make believe, when you can go to a real-life fake city? ‘What’s that?’ you ask,

when you see the 105-storey skyscraper-pyramid Ryugyong Hotel which still hasn’t welcomed its first guest after 30 years. A 3000-room hotel is exactly what a city that virtually nobody visits needs, isn’t it? In Pyongyang, even when it isn’t fake you’re inclined to believe it must be. Until 2010 tourists were only allowed to use the metro between two stations, so a conspiracy theory developed that these were the only stations that existed and that any locals you met on the metro trains (all recycled from Berlin) were actors. It wasn’t true, but it certainly seemed possible.

10 VALLETTA The capital of the Mediterranean island republic of Malta took my breath away. It’s very solid and very substantial, clearly the Knights of Malta did extremely well out of their crusading and pirating activities. They certainly spent their gains on some very fancy buildings. Cathedral, palaces, forts, imposing streets, towering city walls, Valletta has them all. It’s no wonder it was once nicknamed Superbissima, ‘Most Proud’, a sly dig at its official title of Humillissima Civitas Valletta – ‘The Most Humble City of Valletta’. And when you tire of all that Baroque beauty there’s the rest of the island to explore, particularly, for me, the ancient megalithic temple sites, reminders of a far earlier Malta.

The best cities for… Whether you’re looking for clubbing, culture or child-friendly travel, we pinpoint where you’ll be most likely to find it

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Bookworms New York, probably the star of more novels than any other city, also boasts a vibrant bookstore scene and a famous city library where you’ll want to spend the rest of your days. Paris is a city so devoted to reading that most people don paperbacks (not smartphones) at parks or on the Metro. Among hundreds of bookstores to visit, Shakespeare and Company is on every must-see list. The Library of Alexandria, the ancient world’s most valuable, may have burned down two millennia ago, but the modern replacement is home to rare works for a great literary pilgrimage. Oxford, muse of Tolkien and Pullman, is a bibliographically blessed seat of learning, boasting the famed Bodleian Library, bewitching bookshops and even a pub called Old Bookbinders. As well as the Library at Trinity College, Dublin’s independent bookstores are the envy of many booklovers around the world. A traditional literary culture begets a strong book-selling tradition.

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Music Austin calls itself the ‘live music capital of the world’, and it walks the walk

with scores of venues and a palpable energy. Club-packed Red River and Sixth St are hotspots, while SXSW, Austin City Limits and Sound on Sound are festival highlights. Dakar, Africa’s westernmost city, gave the world the legendary Youssou N’Dour and R&B star Akon. Dress smart and go out late in order to sample mbalax, jazz, salsa and beyond. Glasgow: Indie, techno and folk are among the genres jostling for attention in this earthy city with elegant architecture and a friendly vibe. Historic venues include King Tut’s, the Barrowlands and the Sub Club. Cuba’s very Caribbean fusion of percussion, melody and movement has shaped salsa, son, mambo and more. Havana offers plenty of places to get down, from massive Teatro Karl Marx and the arty Fábrica de Arte Cubano to the midweek sessions at Teatro Bertolt Brecht. Seoul, the city of Gangnam Style (named after a smart suburb), is no onetrick pony. K-Pop fans can watch hologram concerts or learn dance moves, traditional gugak is enjoying a renaissance and the indie scene is buzzing.

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Nightlife Hedonistic Belgrade parties like the sun won’t ever rise. Expect house music on floating nightclubs, jazz acts in Brutalist blokovi (tower blocks) and the clinking of cocktail glasses among faded, Neoclassic grandeur. Berlin: Forget opening hours, Europe’s untameable wild child is a transcendent late-night world of techno temples, slick-haired rockabilly bars, dimly lit gin and jazz nights and graffiti-scrawled punk pits. Warming by an open fire as laughter roars above the galloping fretwork of a banjoist, appreciating Dublin after dark is like pouring the perfect Guinness: settle in, be patient, savour.

In a whirl of colour and a blaze of brass, New Orleans swings to its own beat: a joyful collision of jazz, funk and hip hop musicians howl to the moon on its street corners and bend the walls of the city’s candlelit, velvetcurtained clubs. Carnaval is the annual embodiment of Rio de Janeiro’s party verve, which snake-hips between Caipirinhas on Copacabana Beach to samba-led street parties that spill out across the Lapa neighbourhood.

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LGBT-friendly In 2003, Toronto became the first city in North America to legalise same-sex marriage; its Pride festival is one of the biggest in the world, drawing more than a million revellers to the Church-Wellesley district every year. LGBT culture has been going strong in Berlin since the 1920s and these days it’s still Europe’s flourishing gay capital. The city’s vibrant and diverse scene caters for every taste and fetish under the sun. The Stonewall riots in New York City’s Greenwich Village in 1969 symbolised the birth of the modern gay rights movement. The West Village, Chelsea and Hell’s Kitchen provide a fabulous mix of dining, drinking and accommodation options. São Paulo Pride is by most estimates the largest gay gathering in the world. The city is home to Latin America’s largest and most visible LGBT community, and there is an enormous wealth of gay-friendly venues. Tel Aviv is already the Middle East’s foremost LGBT destination and these days is a player on the global stage, reeling travellers in with a mix of a thriving nightlife, a week-long Pride and favourite gay hangout Hilton Beach.

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Architecture There’s more to Barcelona than the wonderful, wonky buildings of Antoni Gaudí – take Jean Nouvel’s priapic Agbar Tower or the fabulously flamboyant interior of the Palau de la Música Catalana. Nobody does skyscrapers like America, and nowhere in America does them like Chicago, from the stacked building blocks of the Willis Tower to the Spanish Revival swagger of the Wrigley Building. As American cities bristle with skyscrapers, so Istanbul prickles with minarets. The humpback ridge of Sultanahmet is a forest of slender towers and graceful domes from the city’s myriad mosques. Architecture in Rome spans ages and empires, counting back from 21stcentury Modernism through Neoclassical, Baroque, Renaissance and Gothic to the landmarks of Ancient Rome. Mumbai, India’s capital of fashion, finance and film is a glorious hodgepodge of Art Deco cinemas and apartment buildings, grand colonial-era hotels and train stations, and ultra-modern, firmament-piercing skyscrapers.

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Wildlife From kestrel falcons and white-tailed eagles in the skies above to beavers, boars, foxes, rabbits and raccoons patrolling its parks and streets, Berlin is truly an urban jungle. Humpback whales migrate past Cape Town in September and October, while jackass penguins, Cape fur seals, chacma baboons and rock hyraxes happily live there all year round. Thanks to the 117-sq-km Nairobi National Park, a visit to Nairobi allows you

to safari in search of rhinos, lions, hyenas, zebras, giraffes, gazelles and more, all within sight of the city’s skyscrapers. Exotic birds and marauding capuchin monkeys are common sights in Rio de Janeiro, while alligators, capybaras and hundreds of bird species make the nearby lagoons of Pantanal Carioca home. After almost a century of absence, wild coyotes have returned to San Francisco. Though sightings of this species is rare, spotting massive Californian sea lions basking on Pier 39 is an easy treat.

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Accessibility Singapore’s laws on barrier-free accessibility results in step-free access to most buildings and no shortage of kerb cuts. The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is a model for how public transport should cater for people with disabilities. The Americans with Disabilities Act has made the USA one of the most accessible countries in the world, but Las Vegas is renowned for being particularly wheelchair-friendly. Ljubljana: Slovenia’s flat and pedestrianised capital, well-endowed with accessible public transport, features a network of city centre tactile paths. Ljubljana Castle is reached via a wheelchair-accessible funicular or train. The award-winning Butchers’ Bridge also facilitates wheelchair users with access to boats. Barcelona has become a mecca for travellers with disabilities, due to its accessible public transport system, relatively flat and cobblestone-free streets, and priority access to attractions. Even the beach has wheelchair access. Munich has benefited from Germany’s strong economy and well-developed social policies, but has the added advantage of being very flat, which is great for manual wheelchair users.

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Families Chicago is an easy city to travel in with kids, there are child-friendly museums (such as Field Museum and Adler Planetarium) and plenty of parks. Plus, it’s famous for baseball and deep-dish pizza – American childhood favourites. If your children can come up with a theme for an amusement park, Dubai already has it – or is building it. Yes, it’s warm, but there are thrills to be had indoors, especially aimed at children. Encounter labyrinthine markets, snake charmers, storytellers and buskers at the Jemaa el-Fnaa. The main square in Marrakesh is a daily circus where families are entertained while dining outdoors under the stars. Due to pram-friendly pavements, kid-friendly hospitality staff and plenty of world-class attractions that children will actually love, Singapore will be a hit with science- and nature-loving kids of all ages. There are few cities in the world that really transport you to another time. Venice, with its car-free travel and maze-like alleys, is both beautiful and historic in a way children can appreciate as much as adults.

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Coffee Addis Ababa: The birthplace of coffee has the best traditions too. You can get a good cup of joe anywhere, but ensure you have one at a traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony. Melbourne takes its coffee so seriously that international coffee chains have failed here. Expect a single-origin coffee siphoned, poured-over or cold-

dripped at almost any cafe in the city. Oaxaca’s handful of excellent cafes serve locally grown coffee with a delicate body and pleasant, dry, acidy snap. You won’t find a city with better cafe culture in all of Latin America. Rome is the great godfather of the stand-up espresso. At any cafe expect a barista with decades of experience and a coffee to match. Tel Aviv: Tasting – not just downing – coffee is the focus in this vibrant cafe scene. Choose your coffee (filter or espresso?) and compare tasting notes.

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Adventure On the edge of wilderness, Anchorage mixes city streets with hiking trails. Flattop Mountain features a heart-pumping scramble to the summit, but for immersive wilderness head on out to the mountain-studded Chugach State Park. Hobart seduces with its harbour vistas on one side and the Wellington Range on the other. Explore it further via a sea kayak along the waterfront or from the summit of kunanyi/Mt Wellington. A barrage of colours, scents and experiences, Kathmandu is an intoxicating place. Navigate a maze of ancient streets and soak up the atmosphere of Hindu temples. After, take a scenic flight to the region’s most enduring spectacle: mighty Everest. Clean, safe and beautiful, Kigali lures travellers to the Land of a Thousand Hills and serves as a great base for exploring the rest of Rwanda. Spot colobus monkeys in misty rainforests or mountain gorillas on the leafy flanks of the Virungas. Trekkers and mountain bikers will find plenty to occupy them in La Paz. The

area’s most thrilling (and risky) experience is a bike ride down the World’s Most Dangerous Road, a 64km trip with a 3600m vertical drop.

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Art galleries In Chicago, check out the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Art Institute, home to Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks, a classic 20th-century depiction of big city life. Immerse yourself in Renaissance art by da Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo and Raphael in Florence’s Uffizi Gallery. See also the Palazzo Vecchio and the Medici Chapels. Madrid’s underrated Museo del Prado is home to one of Europe’s greatest collections of art, featuring works by Goya and Velázquez. Shanghai’s contemporary art scene goes from strength to strength and there are now more than a dozen exciting galleries, including the Gallery of Art (SGA) and the M97. George Town in Malaysia has opened its walls to street artists, making this one of several cities with a strong, open-air art scene. Look for work by Gabriel Pitcher, Ernest Zacharevic and Julia Volchkova.

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Beaches Cape Town is blessed with fantastic beaches, from famed Camps Bay to wilder shores such as Platboom. Expect surf and refreshing temperatures on the Atlantic seaboard. Sydney has similarly superb beaches and not only the world-famous Bondi

and Manly. Each seaside suburb has its own crescent of sand and maybe a saltwater swimming pool. Staying in the southern hemisphere, Rio de Janeiro’s beach neighbourhoods of Ipanema and Copacabana are so well known that songs have been composed about them. Barcelona’s combination of beaches and urban sophistication attracts millions each year. Head south to Sitges for gay-friendly beaches. Miami mixes its beautiful-people beach culture with music and a party vibe, all taking place to a unique Art Deco backdrop.

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Food San Sebastián takes Spain’s traditional tapas and adds a Basque twist. At their best, the resulting pintxos are bold and deliciously experimental. The pintxo bars dominate the old town, perfect for grazing of an evening. It might not have the most Michelin stars but few cities have as strong a midrange dining scene as Melbourne. There’s great creativity at work among the global cuisines here. And the cafes and bars are as good as the restaurants. London has long embraced the world’s cuisines and has now superceded many European cities with its range of adventurous restaurants. The best of Japan’s extraordinary cuisine is showcased in Tokyo. From the most humble backstreet izakaya to the most artfully presented sushi, Tokyo takes your tastebuds on a magical mystery tour. Hit the streets of Hanoi for your first pho and the most intoxicating and fragrant combination of sweet, sour, salty and spicy that is the hallmark of Vietnamese cuisine.

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Festivals The South by Southwest festival hosted by Austin, Texas since 1987 has evolved from an alt-rock get-together into a celebration of film, music, technology and general forward-looking fun. Edinburgh’s annual international festival and its fringe is probably the world’s largest city-wide event, taking over the Scottish capital every August with music, comedy and theatre. The arrival of the subversive, privately owned Museum of Old and New Art in Hobart has revitalised the Tasmanian capital, with a summer (MONA FOMA) and winter (Dark Mofo) cultural festival. Each January, Cartagena opens its gorgeous colonial spaces – plazas, buildings, streets – to public performances by classical musicians at the Cartagena International Music Festival. It’s a great combination. The Chinese New Year or Spring Festival results in cities turning a shade of red for three weeks. Singapore hosts one of the largest parades and the multicultural city’s food, fireworks and friendliness never disappoint.

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History First occupied by Romans then Moors, Seville grew to be 16th-century Spain’s biggest and wealthiest city thanks to the trade with the Americas. Remnants of those eras can still be explored easily. Charleston in South Carolina was founded in 1670 and many of its historic quarters retain their colonial elegance. The city was also where the first shots of the American Civil War were fired in 1861.

St Petersburg was founded by the Tsar Peter the Great in 1703 and for 200 years it was the centre of the Russian Empire. The gigantic Winter Palace is just part of Peter’s legacy. İstanbul was the capital of the Ottoman Empire from the 15th century, having already been conquered by Greeks and Romans. It stands at a crossroads of cultures, Eastern and Western. Hiroshima was founded by a 16th-century warlord. However, it’s known today for its role in WWII, when it was the target of the world’s first atomic bomb at the conclusion of the last world war. Its Peace Memorial Park is the place to witness the devastating lessons of history.

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Wine The rise of Argentinian wine, especially Malbec, began in the region around Mendoza. Use the city as a starting point for exploring the local wines. There are several world-class wine-touring regions within an easy drive of Melbourne, including the Mornington Peninsula and the Yarra Valley. Hip bars and shops in the city serve locally sourced wines. Tbilisi is the capital of a country that has wine-making at its heart. Georgia’s wine scene is both historic and very on-trend today. Visitors can tour Tbilisi’s surroundings or taste unique wines in the romantic old town. Thanks to the opening of its eye-catching new museum of wine, Bordeaux finally meets the high expectations of visitors drawn by the region’s vinous legends. The Cape Winelands begin just outside Cape Town, meaning that you can be touring Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, and tasting crisp white wines, within a 50-minute drive of the city.

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Skylines The Empire State Building. The Statue of Liberty. Few metropolises have such iconic elements. New York has a vast scale, with Manhattan island just one part of it. It’s best to book a helicopter tour to take it all in. Gain mind-blowing views of Hong Kong and its countless towers from Victoria Peak, reached by taking the Peak Tram to the top. At sea level, the Star Ferry also offers unique views of the city as you chug past. Gaze at Edinburgh’s dark and brooding skyline, complete with castle, crags and tenements, from Calton Hill (a Unesco-recognised viewpoint). A city with a construction called the Space Needle can’t fail. Seattle has probably the most easily identified skyline in the US thanks to its flyingsaucer-topped tower, and Mt Rainier in the background. Shanghai’s neon-lit skyline makes it perhaps the most sci-fi of all cities, if the future is going to resemble the Blade Runner movie set.

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Cool neighbourhoods For 20 years or more, Berlin has attracted creative types with low rents. That’s changing but neighbourhoods such as Kreuzberg (east is edgier than west) and Friedrichshain are still hip (if pricier) hangouts. There’s more to Mumbai than Colaba. Kala Ghoda is the arts district of South Mumbai, filled with fashionable galleries. Juhu has a famous beach and Malabar Hill is an affluent refuge from the city. Melbourne is the epicentre of antipodean cool due to districts such as Carlton, Fitzroy, Brunswick, Collingwood and even Footscray, infused with

street art, great coffee, independent shops and craft beer bars. From the East Village out west to Williamsburg, New York is the home of the hipster, with arty venues, exciting eateries and a sense of being at the centre of the universe. Whatever the time of day, there’s a neighbourhood that’s just right in Lisbon. Wake up with a coffee in Alfama or go out at night in Bairro Alto.

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Museums London is famous for its fantastic free museums. Beyond the big names of the Natural History Museum, the V&A and the Science Museum, there are quirky delights to discover such as Dennis Severs’ House. Know your Mayans from your Toltecs: the standout museum in Mexico City is its National Museum of Anthropology, which contains as enthralling an account of Mexico’s civilisation through history as you can wish for. Beijing has a truly incredible range of museums, from the bizarre (a watermelon museum) to the brilliant (China’s complex history explored at the Palace Museum in the Forbidden City). The challenge presented by Washington DC is deciding which of the 80 or so museums to visit. The 17 museums of the Smithsonian Institution are a good starting point. Berlin’s best museums have an island on the Spree river to themselves. The Pergamon, the most popular, is being renovated but is still open.

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Cycling

Copenhagen is the poster child for cycle-friendly urban design. Every day many thousands of cyclists take to its streets in safety. Bicycles are the ideal mode of transport for exploring the flat Danish capital, and bike paths also wend their way out of the city. The Danish urban designer Jan Gehl helped establish Melbourne as Australia’s most cycle-friendly city. Cafes and bars often have a rack of bikes outside. Bike paths also follow rivers for nature-rich rides. Helmets are compulsory. Portland set the pace for urban cycling in the US. Although NY and others are catching up, bike culture runs very deep in Oregon’s largest city, despite the weather. Argentina’s capital has embraced the bicycle with great enthusiasm. Buenos Aires has laid miles of bike paths and introduced a bike-share scheme so many neighbourhoods are pleasant places to pedal. Bicycles are as much a part of Amsterdam’s identity as canals and coffee shops. Just try not to combine all three.

The cities

Beachside Barcelona as seen from the city’s La Barceloneta neighbourhood / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Abu Dhabi // United Arab Emirates The UAE capital is the most cultural of the emirates. Lots of oil-rich Abu Dhabi’s cash has been devoted to all-new galleries, museums, theme parks and cultural centres.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Abu Dhabi DATE OF BIRTH: 1760; named by the first settlers, the Bani Yas Bedouin tribe, meaning ‘father of the gazelle’ ADDRESS: United Arab Emirates (map 5, O11) HEIGHT: 27m SIZE: 972 sq km POPULATION: 1.5 million ANATOMY The emirate of Abu Dhabi is the largest of the seven emirates comprising the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The city itself occupies a main island linked by major bridges with the mainland. It is also linked by bridge to Yas and Saadiyat Islands, which are quickly transforming into leisure and entertainment zones. The former is home to Yas Marina Circuit, Yas Waterworld and the world’s fastest rollercoaster at Ferarri World, while the latter is earmarked to become a highbrow cultural hub. Abu Dhabi’s scenic Corniche is bookended by the Mina Port to the east and the Emirates Palace to the west. Private taxis (with air-conditioning) are the best way of getting around – it’s almost always too hot to walk.

The dramatic Etihad Towers complex / BUENA VISTA IMAGES | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Only one quarter of the population of Abu Dhabi is actually made up of UAE nationals; the majority of inhabitants are expatriates from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, the Philippines, the United Kingdom and from across the Arab world. Although Arabic is the official language here, English is widely spoken and understood. Islam is the official religion. BEST TIME Abu Dhabi really comes into its own during the winter (from November to February). After months of scorching weather, the temperature finally starts to drop below 30°C, making it the perfect time for the city’s residents to throw themselves into events season. High-profile sporting contests and outdoor concerts take place almost every weekend, while the beaches, al fresco restaurants and bars are packed with punters.

A woman walks through the forecourt of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque / GABLE DENIMS | 500PX

A PERFECT DAY Starting with a visit to the spectacular Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, Abu Dhabi’s crowning glory, taking time to admire the beautiful design of cool white marble intricately laced with flowers and vines, before joining a free guided tour which finishes with a very open question-and- answer session as visitors sit cross-legged on the world’s largest carpet under one of the world’s biggest chandeliers. Later, having a saunter around the extraordinarily lavish Emirates Palace hotel and enjoying a frothy cappuccino topped with real gold flakes. STRENGTHS • Beachside promenade • F1 racing venue • Ferrari World • Major UAE concert venue • Yas Marina • Diverse cuisines • Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque • Glamorous hotels and resorts • Atmospheric souqs WEAKNESSES • Searing heat • Expensive accommodation and nightlife • Downtown traffic • Little potential for interaction with Emiratis GOLD STAR For utterly unbridled cultural ambition: plans to open an Abu Dhabi Louvre, Guggenheim and Foster+Partners–designed Sheikh Zayed National Museum are underway. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Kingdom (2007 – filmed but not set here)

• Sex and the City 2 (2010 – set but not filmed here) • The Bourne Legacy (2012 – filmed but not set here) • Fast and Furious 7 (2015) • Star Wars: The Force Awakens (2015) • Body of Lies by David Ignatius IMPORT • Real estate developers • South Asian cuisine • Formula One race cars EXPORT • Oil • Pearls SEE the gilded Emirates Palace and goggle in wonder at its gold vending machine. EAT a shawarma from one of the many top-notch Lebanese restaurants in town. DRINK a sugary, lurid mocktail on one of the terraces overlooking the Corniche. DO rent a bike and cruise along the seafront Corniche. WATCH any of the world-class musicians appearing at the annual F1 event concerts. BUY gold at the ever-popular gold souq in the Madinat Zayed Shopping Centre. AFTER DARK dress up and head for one of the top hotels’ glitzy bars and clubs.

URBAN TALE

The late architect Zaha Hadid designed the Sheikh Zayed Bridge which connects Abu Dhabi to the UAE’s mainland. The distinctive symmetrical steel arches are said to represent desert dunes, but there’s a persistent rumour that they were really inspired by a woman’s drawn-up legs, ‘giving birth’ to the traffic that runs through.

Yachts moored at the marina at the Intercontinental Hotel / JANE SWEENEY | GETTY IMAGES

Addis Ababa // Ethiopia Ethiopia has been called the ‘cradle of civilisation’: one of the few countries on the continent never to be colonised, its unique culture is expressed in its vibrant capital.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Addis Ababa NICKNAME: ‘New Flower’ DATE OF BIRTH: 1886; founded by Emperor Menelik on land chosen by his Empress, Taytu, for its pleasant climate at the base of the Entoto Mountains ADDRESS: Ethiopia (map 1, AA15) HEIGHT: 2450m SIZE: 250 sq km POPULATION: 5 million ANATOMY Addis lies over a series of folds in the hills, but these have little effect on its sprawling mass, clustered around the Piazza to the north and Meskel Sq to the south. High-rise blocks stand next to fields of thatched, wattle-and- daub huts, air-conditioned taxis ferry businesspeople and bureaucrats while the rest of the population crowds into the fleet of tiny minibuses.

Ethiopian coffee is poured from a traditional jabena (coffee pot) / BRIAN D CRUICKSHANK | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Addis’ population speaks 80 languages. Galla from the south comprise 40% of the total population, Amhara are the second-largest group at 30%, and others include Tigrayans (15% of the total), the Somali, Gurage, Borana, Awi, Afar, Wolayta, Sadama and the Beja. BEST TIME Although the highlands receive rain between mid-March and September, most days during this period still see their fair share of sunshine. Early October, just after the rains, is a particularly good time to visit. You’d also do well to coincide with one of Ethiopia’s very colourful festivals, particularly Leddet (6-7 January), Timkat (19 January) and Meskel (27 September).

An Addis Ababa local / MIMMOPELLICOLA.COM | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Joining in the week-long celebrations of Meskel (the Feast of the True Cross) in September, when huge bonfires are lit in Meskel Sq, topped by crosses made of flowers, and the singing and dancing carries on long, long into the night. STRENGTHS • Warm, temperate climate • One of the safest cities in Africa • Friendly locals • Beautiful cathedrals and lively festivals of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church WEAKNESSES • Extreme poverty • Pollution • The lack of real quality or charming hotels

The Lion of Judah stands proud near the National Theatre / DEREJE BELACHEW | 500PX

GOLD STAR For hospitality – Ethiopians really are among the most welcoming people around. Sit down for a natter and a strong, sweet coffee in one of the numerous cafés around the Piazza and just try to get away in a hurry. STARRING ROLE IN… • Shaft in Africa (1973) • 500 Years Later (2005) IMPORT • Jazz – although the 1950s to the ’70s were the foremost years of the Ethiojazz movement, a love of brass and swing still persists in Addis Ababa’s nightclubs. EXPORT • Coffee – Ethiopia claims to have discovered it, and buyers come to Addis from all over the world to procure the best • Handicrafts • Gold • Oil seeds • Pulses and spices SEE the city’s Ethnological Museum, which is located within Emperor Haile Selassie’s former palace and is surrounded by the beautiful gardens and fountains of the main campus of Addis Ababa University. EAT world-renowned Ethiopian cuisine including spongy injera bread, yedoro arosto (roasted chicken), gored gored (raw beef cubes with awazi, a mustard and chilli sauce) and vegetarian fasting food. DRINK a flask of tej, the powerful local mead brewed from honey, in one of the numerous tej beats (Ethiopian pubs). DO take a moment to reflect at the small but incredibly moving ‘Red Terror’ Martyrs Memorial Museum, revealing the horror of life under the Derg

regime in the 1970s and ’80s. WATCH a football match at Addis San Giorgis stadium in the centre of town, complete with barefoot players, live animal mascots, fire-breathing spectators and lashings of St George beer. BUY anything you like at the sprawling, open-air Merkato, the largest market in East Africa, from Kalashnikovs to camels and spices. AFTER DARK head to the bars on the Bole Rd for music and dancing in all styles – everything from azmaris (traditional Addis tunes) to international stars such as the adored Gigi Shibabaw.

URBAN TALE Far and away the highlight of the National Museum is the paleontological exhibition in the basement, the home of world-famous Lucy, whose discovery in the Afar region in northeastern Ethiopia in 1974 changed our understanding of human origins forever. But don’t expect to see the real Lucy, as some locals would like you to think – here you’ll find two remarkable casts of the fossilised hominid. The real bones are preserved in the archives of the museum.

Red and yellow buses ply Addis’s streets / DEREJE BELACHEW | 500PX

Alexandria // Egypt As much Mediterranean as Middle Eastern, Alexandria, a confident city of cafés and promenades, is now making waves again.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Alexandria DATE OF BIRTH: 332 BC; when Alexander the Great commissioned his architect Deinocrates to construct a new capital city on the coast ADDRESS: Egypt (map 5, D7) HEIGHT: 32m SIZE: 300 sq km POPULATION: 4.76 million ANATOMY A thin, ribbon-like city, Alexandria runs along the Mediterranean coast for some 20km without ever venturing more than 5km inland – this is a true waterfront city. The Great Corniche sweeps along Alexandria’s eastern harbour, with a string of city beaches. Trams travel at a snail’s pace throughout the city, supplemented by buses and minibuses. The bustling central area is compact enough to walk around.

Fishing boats at rest in the Port of Alexandria / ZBRUCH | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Alexandria’s population is no longer the extraordinary pre-revolutionary mix of Egyptians, Greeks, English, French and Italians that gave the city its 19thand 20th-century vitality. There were 300,000 people here in the 1940s, of whom about 40% were foreigners; today’s millions are almost exclusively Egyptian. That has changed the way that Alexandria sees itself – the working-class Egyptian families in the city’s increasing urban sprawl have, some might say, reclaimed the city for the country’s conservative heartland. Even so, Alexandria has always been a place apart and still, for the time being at least, sees itself as such, meaning that the atmosphere remains more cosmopolitan than anywhere else in Egypt, at least in the city’s urban core. BEST TIME To soak up Alexandria at its sultry Mediterranean best, May through to October are the best months, with mild evenings and warm (but not too hot) days. Except for the transition months of April and November, the rest of the

year can be downright chilly, with rain also a stronger possibility in the cooler winter months. A PERFECT DAY Breakfast at Trianon, downstairs from Cavafy’s old offices, before exploring the Roman amphitheatre and Pompey’s Pillar, the Catacombs of Kom ashShuqqafa – creepy tombs out of a horror-film set – then wandering along the Corniche to the Royal Jewellery Museum for a taste of recent excess, before a swim at Mamoura, resting in the late afternoon, and dining at the 1950s-style Elite. STRENGTHS • Beautiful beaches • Antoniadis Gardens • Old-world cafés • Creepy catacombs • The Bibliotheca Alexandrina • The Mediterranean WEAKNESSES • Summer crowds GOLD STAR For the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, which attempts to recreate the famous repository for literature and history that stood here 2500 years ago. With a reading room stepped over 14 terraces, it resembles a giant discus embedded in the ground at an angle, representing a second sun rising from the Mediterranean. STARRING ROLE IN… • Lawrence of Arabia (1962) • Alexandria: A History & Guide by EM Forster • Death on the Nile by Agatha Christie (film 1978) • Alexandria Quartet by Lawrence Durrell • Farewell to Alexandria: Eleven Short Stories by Harry E Tzalas

IMPORT • Greek mathematician Euclid • Greek poet Apollonius • Greek scholar Aristarchus • Greek mathematician and astronomer Eratosthenes • Greek physician Herophilus • Julius Caesar • Marc Anthony • Augustus Caesar • Gustave Flaubert • Hordes of Cairenes in summer • Millions of tourists here for the historical and literary mystique • Archaeologists busy uncovering splendours on the harbour floor EXPORT • The great love story of Cleopatra and Mark Antony • Cleopatra’s Needles (two red granite obelisks), now in London and New York • The exiled King Farouk • Constantine Cavafy’s poetry • Actor Omar Sharif • Singer Demis Roussos SEE the ancient royal remains submerged in the surrounding sea (scuba equipment required). EAT the freshest seafood at Gezeirit El-Maleka and sample the whole menu – use your fingertips. DRINK coffee at the classic and very elegant Trianon Le Salon. DO visit the new Alexandria Library, two millennia after the world’s very first library was founded here. WATCH the Alexandrians promenading along the Corniche overlooking the sea, enjoying the cool of the evening.

BUY fabulous antiques in the confusion of backstreets and alleys of Attareen Antique Market. AFTER DARK catch the belly dancing at the Palace Suite in the Plaza Hotel.

URBAN TALE The theory that the original library established by Ptolemy I Soter in 288 BC was destroyed by later Christian mobs – or indeed any other group – is disputed. It is thought more likely to have gradually declined due to a lack of support.

The imposing interior of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina / MATILDE GATTONI | GETTY IMAGES

Amman // Jordan More modern Arab city than great ancient metropolis, Amman comes to life in its earthy and chaotic Downtown district, and in the leafy, trendy residential districts of Western Amman.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Amman NICKNAME: White pigeon DATE OF BIRTH: 3500 BC; the site of Amman has been continuously occupied since this time ADDRESS: Jordan (map 5, G7) HEIGHT: 777m SIZE: 1680 sq km POPULATION: 5.5 million ANATOMY Amman was originally built on seven hills but has stretched out beyond these and now covers around 19. The area around the King Hussein Mosque is referred to as il-balad (Downtown). Memorise the major landmarks or you’ll find navigating the city a near impossibility, particularly if you’re here for a short time. Restaurants, large hotels and shops are located around the main hill, Jebel Amman. The impressive Citadel sits atop the city’s highest point, Jebel al-Qala’a. You can catch buses to transport you around town.

The Roman Theatre is a prominent feature of Amman’s cityscape / LEONID ANDRONOV | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Inhabiting such a tough neighbourhood but remaining stubbornly at peace as it continues to do, Amman is like the entire Middle East (Israel excluded) in microcosm. And somehow it works. Most of Amman’s residents are Arab, including Palestinian refugees, who have arrived since 1967 in particular, Iraqi and Kuwaiti refugees who arrived after the first Gulf War of 1990–91, and Syrian refugees who have arrived since 2008. Amman’s population is also graced by a small number of Circassians, Chechens, Armenians and Bedouins. Around 50% of Ammanians are under the age of 18. BEST TIME June to August is hot and dry with cooler respite in the evening. Rains usually begin in September, and can continue with cooler weather right through winter to March. Spring (April and May) is particularly pleasant.

Mud masks are popular beauty treatments / NIDAL SADEQ/EYEEM | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Watching the faithful heed the call to prayer on your way to wander among the city’s Roman ruins. Then seeking out the buzzing contemporary art scene, before passing an evening in one of the city’s stylish restaurants and cool coffee shops out in Western Amman. STRENGTHS • Roman ruins • A convenient base to travel around Jordan • Jordanian hospitality • Excellent coffee shops and cafés • Good collection of museums and art galleries WEAKNESSES • Drivers who insist that a white line down the centre of a road is nothing more than a white line • Confusing to navigate

GOLD STAR For peace: war zones sit right on Jordan’s doorstep, but Amman just keeps rolling on, absorbing more refugees yet maintaining its air of serenity, hospitality and urban cool. In what is a lesson for the rest of the Middle East, Amman straddles the city’s competing conservative and liberalising forces and finds enough room for everyone. STARRING ROLE IN… • Story of a City: A Childhood in Amman by Abd Al-Rahman • The Desert and the Snow by Gertrude Bell IMPORT • Western-style shopping centres • Performances for the Amman International Theatre Festival • Fête de la Musique • Wood EXPORT • Coloured marble • Amin Matalqa’s short films about Jordanian life • King Hussein • Bedouin crafts SEE the remains of a prehistoric Neolithic settlement near Ain Ghazal, which dates back to about 6500 BC. EAT mensaf – a whole lamb, head included, on a bed of rice and pine nuts, eaten with jameed (sun-dried yoghurt). DRINK coffee – Ammanians are said to have a serious caffeine addiction. DO experience the contemporary art space, Darat al Funun. WATCH or participate in the annual Dead Sea Ultra Marathon, which starts in Amman and passes many of Jordan’s great attractions. BUY hand-woven Bedouin rugs at one of the many delightful arts and crafts

stores. AFTER DARK see a free art-house film (undubbed) at Books@Café.

URBAN TALE Amman is considered the oldest capital (as opposed to the oldest city) in the world. Biblical references to it are numerous and indicate that by 1200 BC Rabbath Ammon (as it was then known) was the capital of the powerful Ammonites. King David, after being insulted by the Ammonite king Nahash, burnt many inhabitants alive in a brick kiln. Later the city fell under the sway of Rome and, renamed Philadelphia, became the seat of Christian bishops in the early Byzantine period. But the city declined and by the time a colony of Circassians resettled here in 1878, Amman was just a sad little village amid the ruins.

The Roman Temple of Hercules on the Amman Citadel / MATT NAYLOR | GETTY IMAGES

Amsterdam // The Netherlands With gabled houses lining its waterways, Amsterdam still evokes the Golden Age paintings that fill its museums, but the city is also a hotspot for contemporary art and phenomenal nightlife.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Amsterdam DATE OF BIRTH: 1275; when the Count of Holland lifted tolls for residents on the Amstel dam ADDRESS: The Netherlands (map 4, J8) HEIGHT: 2m; 24% of the city is below sea level SIZE: 220 sq km POPULATION: 813,562 ANATOMY The central area of Amsterdam is Centrum, home to impressive Dam Square, great shops, and those notorious red lights. Heading southeast from here, you pass through the market of Waterlooplein, the leafy Plantage, the Eastern Islands and the 21st-century residential district, IJburg. Beyond Centrum, the main tourist spots are in the Southern Canal Ring. Gentrified Jordaan is to the west of Centrum; bohemian De Pijp is south of the Canal Ring. Not far from Museumplein, which is home to the Van Gogh Museum, Rijksmuseum and Stedelijk Museum, is the leafy haven of Vondelpark. Bicycles are the ultimate way to get around.

Gables and houseboats along a canal / SARAH COGHILL | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Amsterdam is a famously tolerant city, with liberal approaches to ‘soft drugs’ such as cannabis, as well as prostitution, and was home to the world’s first legalised euthanasia and same-sex marriage. The city counts 180 nationalities living within its borders, and 45% of Amsterdam’s residents hail from elsewhere, particularly Suriname, Morocco, Turkey and Indonesia. Bicycles outnumber cars (there are an estimated 881,000 bikes as opposed to 263,000 cars) and residents too. BEST TIME The summer months (June to August) have warm weather and lots of daylight for cycling, but it can get very crowded. Spring (March to May) is tulip time; early autumn (September and October) is also ideal for visiting. Winter often brings snow; skaters flock to the ice when the canals freeze.

Cruising the Groenburgwal canal / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Cycling along the canals, visiting the Van Gogh Museum, pottering in the antiques shops of Nieuwe Spiegelstraat then enjoying a beer on a café (pub) terrace such as charming bruin café (brown cafe, historically so-called for the nicotine-stained walls) ’t Smalle. STRENGTHS • 165 canals and 90 islands, all reclaimed from the sea • Dutch-Renaissance architecture • ‘Coffeeshops’ (ie legal pot-smoking cafés) • Frothy and cold Dutch beer • One of Europe’s biggest gay scenes • Golden Age painters • Liberal attitudes • Van Gogh Museum • Rijksmuseum • Anne Frankhuis • Vondelpark • Artis Zoo • Nederlands Scheepvaartmuseum (Maritime Museum) • Shopping in Negen Straatjes (‘Nine Streets’) • Beurs van Berlage and the Amsterdam School WEAKNESSES • Occasional pushy dealers • Bicycle theft – 50,000 to 80,000 get nicked every year • If the dams burst, 25% of the Netherlands would flood

Rembrandt’s Night Watch draws a crowd at the Rijksmuseum / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For Gezelligheid – the quintessentially Dutch quality of cosiness/conviviality, which is best experienced in Amsterdam’s bruin cafés. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Fault in Our Stars (2014) • Deuce Bigalow: European Gigolo (2005) • Ocean’s 12 (2004) • Traffic (1971) • The Acid House by Irvine Welsh IMPORT • Anne Frank • Rembrandt • Travel writer Lieve Joris • Artist Marlene Dumas

• Stag nights EXPORT • Vincent Van Gogh • Baruch Spinoza • Piet Mondrian • Jacob van Ruysdael • Albert Cuyp • Jan Steen • Cornelis Troost • Jacob de Wit • Jan Akkerman • Dutch design • Heineken • Dennis Bergkamp • Tulips • Clogs SEE Dutch masterpieces by Rembrandt and others in the treasure-packed Rijksmuseum. EAT a spicy Indonesian rijsttafel (‘rice table’) banquet at Tempo Doeloe restaurant. DRINK Jenever (Dutch gin) at the 1679 tasting house and liquor store Wynand Fockink. DO visit Anne Frankhuis and see the attic where Anne Frank wrote her poignant diary in hiding. WATCH the city go mad on Koningsdag (King’s Day), one of Europe’s biggest and best street parties. BUY cutting-edge Dutch design at pioneer collective Droog. AFTER DARK hit the dance floor at renowned clubs such as Air, Sugar Factory or Up.

URBAN TALE Prostitution was legalised in the Netherlands in 2000. An estimated 5000 to 8000 people work as prostitutes in Amsterdam; the minimum age is 21. They rent their windows and pay tax on their earnings. If a client gets violent prostitutes can press a button to alert the police. Since 2007, city officials have been reducing the number of Red Light windows in an effort to clean up the district. Finally, why the red light? Apparently it is so flattering it makes teeth sparkle. In the 1300s, ladies of the night carried red lanterns to welcome the sailors to shore.

Vondelpark is a favourite relaxation spot / KAVALENKAU | SHUTTERSTOCK

Anchorage // USA In this unparalleled urban wildness, polar bears take no notice of city limits and outdoor adventure is as easy to have as theatre, great food and a rocking nightlife.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Anchorage DATE OF BIRTH: 1914; Anchorage was founded when it served as a headquarters and work camp for the Alaska railroad ADDRESS: USA (map 1, D6) HEIGHT: 40m SIZE: 4396 sq km POPULATION: 298,695 ANATOMY Sprawling across a broad triangle of a peninsula, the city is embraced by Cook Inlet and the 1500m-plus peaks of Chugach State Park, a backyard getaway to wilderness adventure. Anchorage’s excellent public bus system shuttles you from the grid of flower-filled Downtown streets, where you’ll find more than enough museums to keep you happy, and through the interesting Midtown neighbourhoods with their diverse eateries and lively nightlife. But get off the bus and explore the 196km of paved bicycle paths, the stunning tracts of green (or white, depending on the season) parkland and the lakes that dot the city.

The Chugach Mountains dominate the skyline / JEFF EHLERS | 500PX

PEOPLE Twenty-five years ago, barely a quarter of Anchorage residents were born in Alaska, but these days the population is a lot less transient. That said, the lure of the final frontier never diminishes, and the typical resident is young (average age is 33), mobile and often from the US West Coast. Ethnic communities are growing fast in this previously male and very Caucasian town, with Asians the largest minority group at 10% of the population (followed by Alaska Natives, making up 8%). Anchoragites have the frontier spirit of most Alaskans, but with the urban edge of big-city dwellers. They are independent, practical people who answer extreme weather with extreme living, whether it’s indulging in arctic diving, glacier hiking and backcountry snowboarding, or just drinking until the sun goes down. BEST TIME The northern hemisphere summer is the high season in Anchorage, when the temperatures are manageable, the skies are clear and the city’s 460 flower beds are in bloom. Spring and fall are brief, but visitors can expect fewer crowds and mosquitoes. Winter brings typically cold Alaskan weather, but the Northern Lights and snow sports more than make up for potentially frigid temps. For 10 days in February and March, Anchorage holds the Fur Rendezvous Festival, an 82-year- old tradition of ice sculptures, a carnival, hockey games and plenty more – all in celebration of the coming spring.

Cycling the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail / KEVIN SMITH/DESIGN PICS | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Wandering through the Saturday market to the Snow City Café for a breakfast of Ship Creek Benedict and a Kaladi coffee while tossing up whether to bike the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail or hike the tundra in the Chugach State Park, then heading down to the Bear Tooth Theatre Pub for an evening meal/movie/beer. STRENGTHS • Big, green parks • Proximity to mountains, glaciers, lakes – this is truly a nature-lover’s paradise • Alaska Zoo • Beluga whales in Cook Inlet • Being able to catch an 18kg salmon under a highway bridge • A multitude of microbreweries • Title Wave Books • The aurora borealis (though you’ll have to travel a bit out of town for dark

enough skies) • Good music scene WEAKNESSES • Winter • No major league sports teams • Ravenous summer mosquitoes • One of the most expensive cities in the USA

Fly fishing is a popular pastime / AURORA PHOTOS | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

GOLD STAR For being only 20 minutes from the Alaskan wilderness! It’s the best base for outdoor adventures. STARRING ROLE IN… • About Grace by Anthony Doerr • Mystery, Alaska (1999) • Sidney Laurence, Painter of the North by Kesler E Woodward

• ‘Anchorage’ by Michelle Shocked IMPORT • Pilot bread • Retirees from the lower 48 on cruise holidays • Mountain men • Nature film crews EXPORT • Salmon and halibut • Oil and minerals • Softball-sized radishes and giant cabbage • Water • Morel mushrooms • Malamutes • Moose ‘nugget’ jewellery • Reindeer antlers • Sarah Palin SEE the start of the Iditarod, the last great trail dogsledding race, charge up 4th Ave at the beginning of March each year. EAT coconut-beer–battered spam (or not). DRINK a pint of Arctic Rhino Coffee Porter in the loft of the Midnight Sun Brewing Company. DO hear ancient Alaskan songs, once thought lost forever, performed at the Alaska Native Heritage Centre. WATCH a show at Cyrano’s Theatre Company, the best live-theatre troupe in town, staging everything from wacky, original works to Shakespeare. BUY a Qiviut scarf or cap from the Oomingmak Musk Ox Producers’ Cooperative. AFTER DARK head to the 10 bars at Chilkoot Charlie’s (Koot’s) – the

place for unbridled Anchorage debauchery for the past 35 years.

URBAN TALE On Upper Huffman Road, Hillside, you can experience an excellent example of the phenomenon known as a gravity hill. If you put your car in neutral it will roll uphill, even in the snow and ice. In fact, this is just a powerful illusion – the slope is actually slightly downhill, but the shape of the surrounding landscape and obscured horizon mean that the usual reference points are absent.

A family of grizzlies in the wilderness on Anchorage’s doorstep / ROB DAUGHERTY/DESIGN PICS | GETTY IMAGES

Antigua // Guatemala With streetscapes of pastel facades beneath a backdrop of volcanoes, Antigua draws visitors while retaining its tumbledown colonial charm.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Antigua DATE OF BIRTH: 1543; when it was founded, serving as the colonial capital for the next 233 years ADDRESS: Guatemala (map 3, D5) HEIGHT: 1480m SIZE: 281 sq km POPULATION: 39,360 ANATOMY Nestled in the Ponchoy Valley, Antigua is dramatically set between three volcanoes: Volcán de Agua to the southeast, Volcán de Fuego to the southwest and Volcán Acatenango to the west. Antigua served as the capital until Guatemala City took over after the earthquakes of 1773. A few buildings remain from the colonial era and many earthquake-ruined churches and convents crumble gracefully on the cobblestoned streets. The central point of the city is the tree-shaded Parque Central and calles (streets) are labelled east and west of here. The Terminal de Buses is four blocks west of Parque Central.

A tuk-tuk taxi passes in front of the Arch of Santa Catalina / ROBERTO A SANCHEZ | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The majority of Antigüeños are of a mestizo heritage (mixed Spanish and indigenous; 56%) and are practising Roman Catholics. The region’s indigenous Maya people speak Cakchiquel and continue to practise their religion along with Roman Catholicism. BEST TIME While much of Guatemala doesn’t really deserve its nickname of ‘Land of the Eternal Spring’, Antigua certainly does. The temperature hovers around the mid-20s Celsius for much of the year. Accommodation only really gets tight around Christmas and New Year, Easter and other Guatemalan school holidays. If you do have the luxury of planning ahead, then Easter is a great time to be here, for the religious celebrations. A PERFECT DAY Experiencing the breathtakingly elaborate decorations and processions of

Semana Santa (Easter week); or, at other times of year, visiting the museums and ruins strewn about town, studying Spanish while living with a Guatemalan family, summiting Volcán Pacaya, hiking or horse-riding to the Cerro de la Cruz vista point and buying vividly coloured, traditional handmade traje (clothing) in the market. STRENGTHS • Cathedral of San Francisco • Intensive Spanish-language courses • Climbing the Volcán de Agua • Spanish baroque architecture • Parque Central • Intricately beaded crafts • Embroidered huipiles (blouses) • Unique and weathered doorknobs and knockers • Picture-postcard photo ops round every corner • Colourful cobblestone streets • Shopping for Maya crafts • Maya water-lily blossoms and vegetable motifs adorning the church of La Merced WEAKNESSES • Twisting ankles on cobblestone streets after a drink • Pleading for accommodation in the busy season • The city’s year-round popularity with foreigners means it is difficult to have a truly ‘immersive’ cultural experience GOLD STAR For Parque Central – the gathering place for locals and visitors alike. On most days the plaza is lined with villagers selling handicrafts to tourists; on Sundays it’s mobbed and the streets to the east and west are closed to traffic. It’s cheapest late on Sunday afternoon, when the peddling winds down. At night, mariachi or marimba bands play in the park. STARRING ROLE IN… • Visible Signs by Heather Tosteson

• The New Adventures of Tarzan (1935) • The Border (1982) IMPORT • Spanish-language students • Cafés • Colonial architecture • Cuisine from almost every corner of the globe EXPORT • Coffee – some of the world’s best • Ceramics • Beaded handicrafts • Singer Ricardo Arjona • Handmade traje • Carved ceremonial masks • Huipiles SEE tourists, traditionally dressed locals, mariachi musicians and other colourful characters mingle around the 1738 fountain in Parque Central. EAT the lavish Sunday buffet at the Café Condesa, an Antiguan institution. DRINK Zacapa Centenario (a fine Guatemalan rum). DO enrol in an intensive Spanish-language and culture course. WATCH the nearly always active Volcán de Fuego (Volcano of Fire), which looms over the western edge of town and puffs gas and steam regularly, with the occasional lava show thrown in to spice things up. BUY colourful beaded and embroidered handicrafts, ceramics and carved wooden masks. AFTER DARK explore Antigua’s atmospheric bars and see if you can practise some of that new-found Spanish.

URBAN TALE Antigua residents (and the local football team) are known as panzas verdes (green bellies) as they are said to eat lots of avocadoes, which grow abundantly here.

Indigenous women selling fruit on the street / DAN HERRICK | GETTY IMAGES

Arequipa // Peru The rich culture of Arequipa and its resilient people are resplendent after nearly 500 years of earthquakes and tumultuous politics.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Arequipa NICKNAME: The White City DATE OF BIRTH: 1540; founded by the Spanish at the site of a PreIncan settlement ADDRESS: Peru (map 1, N18) HEIGHT: 2325m SIZE: 69 sq km POPULATION: 861,145 ANATOMY At over 2km above sea level, Arequipa is located in a fertile valley under the perfect cone-shaped volcano of El Misti (5822m). The Río Chili flows around the northern boundary of the town. The city centre is easily navigable as it is based on a colonial chequerboard pattern around Plaza de Armas. Addresses, however, can be confusing, as streets change names every few blocks. Walk, cycle or catch minibuses, buses and taxis to get around the city.

La Catedral in Plaza de Armas / GLOWIMAGES | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE About half of Arequipa’s population is indigenous (indígenas is an appropriate term; indios is insulting). A significant percentage identifies as mestizo, with smaller numbers identifying as white, black, or Asian. As is clear from the many religious buildings and churches, Christianity is the dominant religion and a significant part of daily life. Although the Peruvian constitution allows complete religious freedom, its citizens remain almost exclusively Christian, with the vast majority considering themselves to be Roman Catholic. BEST TIME Arequipa receives plenty of sunshine throughout the year, but if you would rather leave your umbrella at home, then avoid the rainy season and plan your trip during the dry months between May and September.

Parades are feasts of colour in Arequipa / JUSTIN SCOTT | 500PX

A PERFECT DAY Spending the morning exploring the Museo Santuarios Andinos, the home of Juanita, ‘the ice princess’, and numerous other ice mummies, artefacts and curiosities, then savouring a leisurely lunch of the invigoratingly spicy rocoto relleno (hot peppers stuffed with meat, rice and vegetables) at one of the balcony restaurants overlooking Plaza de Armas. STRENGTHS • Alpaca knitwear • Criollo cuisine (spicy local food) • Ice mummies • Gateway to El Misti • Dazzling sillar (a light-coloured volcanic rock) stonework • The nearby Cañón del Colca and its condors • River running the Río Chili • La Catedral • Stately colonial sillar mansions

WEAKNESSES • Petty theft is a problem • Active volcanoes • Sparse midweek nightlife • Animal cruelty in the form of bullfights and cockfights GOLD STAR For tradition – Arequipa is a preserve of the uniquely eclectic Peruvian culture; so much more than a transit stop to the mountains, it has carved a niche in the South American psyche. STARRING ROLE IN… • Parelisa (1999) • Path to Arequipa by Mark Jacobi IMPORT • Spanish and African culture • VW kombi vans • Indigenous people from Lake Titicaca and the Peruvian highlands • Mountaineers EXPORT • Alpaca textiles • Leather goods SEE the astonishing views of Arequipa and El Misti flanked by the volcano’s two siblings, Chachani (6075m) and Pichu Pichu (5571m) from the mirador (observation tower) in the suburb of Yanahuara. EAT chupe de camarones (a hearty soup made with tomato, shrimp and hot pepper) or chancho al horno (suckling pig) at the lively Sol de Mayo. DRINK chicha (fermented maize beer) at a hole-in-the-wall eatery or at Chicha, a gourmet restaurant by celebrity chef Gastón Acurio. DO go on a guided tour of La Catedral, the Neoclassical cathedral that

dominates Plaza de Armas. Built with volcanic stone, it’s been damaged by fires and earthquakes, then rebuilt. WATCH the busy food vendors selling exotic fruits and countless varieties of potatoes from their stalls at the colourful Mercado San Camilo marketplace. BUY a high-quality alpaca sweater from the artisans who sell their work at Patio El Ekeko. AFTER DARK order another round of pisco sours, Peru’s traditional cocktail, at La Casona del Pisco.

URBAN TALE The Monasterio de Santa Catalina was founded in 1580 by a rich widow, María de Guzmán, who chose her nuns from Spanish families paying a hefty dowry. In this privileged convent each nun had between one and four servants or slaves, and the nuns would invite musicians, have parties and generally live it up. After about three centuries of these hedonistic goings-on, Sister Josefa Cadena, a strict Dominican nun, was sent to straighten things out. She arrived in 1871 and sent the dowries back to Europe, freeing the servants, many of whom stayed on as nuns.

The historic Jesuit church Iglesia de la Compania / JEREMYRICHARDS | SHUTTERSTOCK

Asheville // USA Surprisingly down-to-earth in places while remaining eccentric and bold in others, Asheville is a mountain town with a hippie heart.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Asheville DATE OF BIRTH: 1784; the settlement began when Colonel Samuel Davidson moved to the Swannanoa Valley on a land grant ADDRESS: USA (map 2, O8) HEIGHT: 664m SIZE: 117 sq km POPULATION: 88,512 ANATOMY Nestled in the Blue Ridge Mountains, Asheville sits at the confluence of the French Broad and Swannanoa Rivers. Within these boundaries, the city’s simple layout makes for easy navigation. The compact, walkable downtown area is full of restaurants, music venues, craft cocktail bars, artisan shops and Art Deco architecture. Asheville’s public-transit system is relatively inexpensive but infrequent, so most visitors explore the other neighbourhoods and nearby towns by car. The Biltmore Estate, which is the area’s most popular attraction, is 3.2km south of downtown.

Leafy Asheville and the Blue Ridge Mountains / ALLEN CREATIVE/STEVE ALLEN | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Asheville’s population is made up of both natives and newcomers, including many international residents and travellers. You’re just as likely to hear a ‘howdy y’all’ southern drawl as an English accent. The city’s demographic makeup is 79% white, with African Americans the largest minority group (13.4%). Broadly speaking, the city’s people share the general traits of the South and other regions of the US, but with an Ashevillian twist. Asheville’s music scene is largely grounded in a tradition of the Appalachians, but it’s also home to innovative artists who fuse genres from near and far. Transplants from the West Coast bring a laid-back lifestyle to the typically conservative South, and hardworking entrepreneurs import a vibrant economy of handcrafted goodies to this quiet mountain town. BEST TIME Asheville benefits from a surprisingly mild climate. The northern hemisphere spring brings comfortable weather and blooming gardens at the Biltmore

Estate, and in fall (autumn) the rolling Blue Ridge Mountains are ignited in the oranges and yellows of the season.

The grand Biltmore Estate / WALTER BIBIKOW | GETTY PREM

A PERFECT DAY Spending the morning strolling through the flower gardens at the Biltmore, then pondering the art in the River Arts District before heading into downtown for dinner at a farm-to-table restaurant, and finally sampling the numerous craft ales and ciders in the South Slope Brewery District. STRENGTHS • A mix of Gilded Age architecture and Art Deco style • Proximity to the Blue Ridge Mountains • A panorama of brilliant mountain colours in the fall • More breweries per capita than any other city • Lively music scene • Terrific cuisine • Vibrant arts community • Indie shops and quirky gifts • The Biltmore Estate WEAKNESSES • These hilly streets aren’t made for walkin’ • Downtown can be quite crowded at peak times • Hotel rooms are often in short supply

The River Arts District breathes new life into old buildings / KEN HOWARD | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

GOLD STAR For successfully bridging the gap between New Age art and Appalachian tradition. STARRING ROLE IN… • Bull Durham (1988) • The Last of the Mohicans (1992) • Forrest Gump (1994) • My Fellow Americans (1996) • Patch Adams (1998) • Hannibal (2001) • The Hunger Games (2012) • Masterminds (2016) • Look Homeward, Angel by Thomas Wolfe • Cold Mountain by Charles Frazier

IMPORT • Retirees and transplants who are seeking a low cost of living and high liveability • French Renaissance architecture • Steve Martin (who fits right in with his banjo) • Folks drawn to the alternative spirit of mountain life • Numerous ‘Best Cities to Live’ accolades EXPORT • Thomas Wolfe • Craft beer • Old-time music • Moog music synthesizers SEE the Biltmore Estate when the flower gardens are in full bloom and imagine you’re a wealthy business owner contemplating your empire. EAT warm buttermilk biscuits slathered in the locally sourced sourwood honey. DRINK a spicy pint of Sidra Del Diablo (made with habaneros and local apples) at Urban Orchard Cider Company. DO a lazy kayak trip down the French Broad River as it wends through farmland, into the middle of Asheville and past the Biltmore. WATCH a local indie band at The Orange Peel. BUY locally made instruments, jewellery, clothing and more in the Grove Arcade. AFTER DARK learn the contra dance (a type of Appalachian folk dance) at The Grey Eagle.

URBAN TALE

In 1936, Zelda Fitzgerald, writer, socialite and wife of F Scott, checked into the Highland Hospital, an Asheville psychiatric facility that catered to famous and wealthy patients. Zelda had been diagnosed with schizophrenia and she drifted in and out of the hospital for the next 12 years. But in 1948 a fire swept through the building – rumours say the blaze was set by a nurse – and Zelda was killed.

Wedge Brewery, with sculptures by John Payne, in the River Arts District / VESPASIAN | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Ashgabat // Turkmenistan One of the world’s oddest cities, Ashgabat is a desert oasis devoted entirely to the cults of personality built around Turkmenistan’s former president, known to one and all as Turkmenbashi, and his successor.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Ashgabat NICKNAME: The City of Love (the meaning of Ashgabat in Persian) DATE OF BIRTH: 1881; as a Russian fortress ADDRESS: Turkmenistan (map 5, Q3) HEIGHT: 219m SIZE: 440 sq km POPULATION: 1 million ANATOMY The old Russian town was almost completely destroyed in a 1948 earthquake, along with over a third of the population, and the rebuilt city is entirely a product of state-planned construction. The city’s main thoroughfares are dotted with white-stone residential buildings that seem eerily empty. These are broken up with fantastically elaborate marble-clad palaces and monuments, particularly those of the stunningly unusual neighbourhood of Berzengi, a modern white-marble suburb south of the city centre. With all its vast spaces it’s not easy to get around on foot and pedestrians are rare, but a fleet of sparkling, modern buses serves Ashgabat along some 70 routes and yellow taxis are easy to hire.

The grand interior of the Ertuğrul Gazi Mosque / CHRIS BRADLEY | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The population is a mix of Turkmen people and Russians whose families immigrated during the colonial and Soviet periods. Ashgabat is by far the most Russian city in Turkmenistan. BEST TIME Time your visit for the last Sunday of April for the annual Turkmen Horse Festival, a celebration of the Akhal-Teke breed that serves as a point of pride for the entire nation, or 27th October for Turkmenistan’s Independence Day parades and concerts. Try to avoid midsummer (especially July), when daytime temperatures soar in this desert city.

The Monument of Neutrality / VOSTOK | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Discovering the city’s quirky sights, including the bombastic monuments of Independence Sq and the fantastically Orwellian marble buildings of Berzengi and central Ashgabat trailing off towards the desert horizon. STRENGTHS • Hospitable locals • Extremely safe at all times • The best restaurants and hotels in the country • Almost no tourists • Innovative, photograph-worthy architecture • Plenty of open space, gardens and fountains • Monument-studded Independence Sq • Golden-domed Palace of Knowledge WEAKNESSES • Broad restrictions on photographing beautiful marble government office blocks • Blistering desert heat makes walking the capital’s city streets trying at times • Bugged hotel rooms • Lifeless streets empty of people • Difficult to explore on foot • Expensive museums

Locals take a break at the bazaar / VELIRINA | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For the magnificent city centre, populated with far more soldiers and statues than pedestrians, and an architectural ensemble like nowhere else on the planet. STARRING ROLE IN… Turkmenistan has no film industry of note, and the city’s fabulous government edifices are unfortunately not open to international filmmakers. IMPORT • Water • Italian marble • French architects • BMWs • Gold leaf EXPORT

• Oil • Gas • Carpets • Rukhnama (President Niyazov’s ‘Book of the Soul’) SEE the ‘Path of Health’ – stairways built into the side of the mountains to encourage people to go for long, invigorating walks. EAT Central Asian culinary favourites such as plov (rice pilaf) and shashlyk (grilled meat skewers) in one of the city’s numerous chaikana teahouses. DRINK national beers Zip and Berk, both of which go down very well in the stifling heat of the late desert afternoon. DO some riding in the mountainous countryside around the city on native Akhal-Teke horses. WATCH a traditional Turkmen opera at the National Theatre. BUY stunning Turkmen carpets at Altyn Asyr Bazaar. AFTER DARK throw back a vodka in the few small bars and clubs around town, but make sure you get home before the city-wide 11pm curfew.

URBAN TALE Following up on a longstanding decree against dirty cars in Ashgabat, in early 2015 customs officials stopped allowing the import of darkcoloured cars into Turkmenistan and Ashgabat ceased the issuance of inspection certificates for the same. Not the result of any official decree, the policies were implemented after President Berdimuhamedow expressed a preference for government cars in his lucky colour – white.

Oguzkhan Palace, the residence and workplace of the President of Turkmenistan / CARTELA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Asmara // Eritrea Like a film set from an early Italian movie, Asmara is one of the safest, cleanest and most enchanting capital cities on the continent.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Asmara DATE OF BIRTH: 12th century; drawn to plentiful supplies of water, shepherds founded four villages on the hill where an Orthodox church now sits ADDRESS: Eritrea (map 1, AA14) HEIGHT: 2355m SIZE: 45 sq km POPULATION: 804,000 ANATOMY Built according to a strict urban plan, Asmara was divided into four main areas: the administrative centre, the colonial residential quarter, the native quarter and the outbuildings. Harnet (Liberation) Ave, lined with majestic palms, striking architecture and busy cafes, is flanked by September 1 Sq at the eastern end and the Governor’s Palace in the west. The old Italian residential quarter with its Art Deco villas is south of Liberation Ave. Central Asmara is small enough to walk everywhere, and the slow pace of life means you won’t feel too rushed to stop for a coffee on the way.

The Fiat Tagliero Building, a Futurist-style service station built in 1938 / ROBERTHARDING | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Eritreans are a mix of nine colourful ethnic groups, each with its own language and customs. The Tigrinya make up the majority, and this is the language you’ll hear widely spoken, although Arabic, English and Amharic are also prevalent. On a Sunday, the clashing sound of the cathedral bells and the Muslim call to prayer provide aural evidence of the communities’ ability to coexist, notwithstanding all government efforts to the contrary. BEST TIME Visit on 24th May’s Independence Day or 20th June’s Martyr’s Day for public celebrations espousing state pride. Or, for a more religious bent, Orthodox and Catholic holidays such as Christmas and Easter offer visitors the chance to see the city’s pious population out in their greatest finery.

Enda Mariam Orthodox Cathedral, a blend of Italian and Eritrean architecture / HEMIS | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Watching the world go by and enjoying a macchiato in one of the many 1930s Italian-style cafés, then taking a self-guided tour of Asmara’s fascinating architecture before joining in the sunset passeggiata (promenade; when the whole town takes a turn around the streets) to catch up with friends, hear the latest gossip, window-shop and generally take life easy. STRENGTHS • Sublime architecture – from Art Deco to Cubist, Expressionist, Functionalist, Futurist, Rationalist and Neoclassical styles • Impressive churches • Blue skies for eight months of the year • Medeber market • Traffic-free streets • Incredibly clean city • Safe to walk the streets at night • Lively café culture and excellent coffee • Injera (spongy bread) and zigny (a spicy meat stew) WEAKNESSES • Asmara gin • Unreliable electricity • No cheap flights • First-day altitude acclimatisation • Lack of tourist infrastructure GOLD STAR Trek out to the ‘Tank Graveyard’ on the outskirts of Asmara, a large junkyard to which the destroyed husks of tanks were dragged after the end of the war with Ethiopia, and a visual testament to the toll the conflict took on the economy and population of Eritrea. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Towards Asmara by Thomas Keneally • Who Said Merhawi Is Dead? edited by Charles Cantalupo and Ghirmai Negash • Ciao Asmara by Justin Hill IMPORT • Fiats • Pizza • Coffee – anyone for a macchiato or a cappuccino? • The nightly passeggiata • Italian words in the vernacular • Military materials • Fuel EXPORT • Shellfish, snapper and grouper • Salt • Live sheep • Sorghum • Textiles SEE seemingly the entire population of Asmara strolling down the boulevards during the sunset passeggiata. EAT injera and tibs zil zil (sizzling lamb) in a traditional Eritrean restaurant. DRINK an espresso from a vintage Italian coffee machine at one of the many outdoor cafés that line Harnet Ave. DO take a walking tour of the incredible number of Italian-era Art Deco and modernist architectural pieces scattered throughout the city. WATCH a film in the 1800-seat, atmospherically decrepit Art Deco Cinema Impero. BUY a tailor-made leather jacket, or, for something more traditional, an assortment of locally sourced curios.

AFTER DARK dance up a storm with the locals at Asmara’s Mocambo nightclub.

URBAN TALE It’s hard not to stare at all the stunning women, particularly when their grins reveal tattooed gums. Fashionable teenagers prick their gums until they bleed, and then rub them with charcoal. The resulting blue colour sets off a dazzling set of teeth, and is considered a mark of great beauty.

A woman at Medebar Metal Market, where steel is recycled into household objects / ERIC LAFFORGUE | GETTY IMAGES

Athens // Greece Resplendent with mythology and enlivened with a gritty buzz, Athens is an affable city packed with ancient ruins, outdoor cafés, verdant parks and urban eccentrics.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Athens DATE OF BIRTH: 3000 BC; founded by Neolithic people on the Acropolis ADDRESS: Greece (map 4, T18) HEIGHT: 107m SIZE: 428 sq km POPULATION: 3.75 million ANATOMY The city is bounded on three sides by Mt Parnitha, Mt Pendeli and Mt Hymettos. Within Athens there are eight hills, of which the Acropolis and Lykavittos are the most prominent. The city’s boundary on the southern side is the Saronic Gulf. The metro system makes getting around the centre of Athens relatively painless; there’s also an extensive bus and trolleybus network.

The view from the Acropolis / ADRIENNE PITTS | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE A large proportion of Athens’ residents today are relative newcomers to the city, who migrated here from other parts of Greece or from Greek communities around the world. Greece is also now attracting large numbers of migrants, both legal and illegal, including many who come from Albania, Eastern Europe, Syria and the Middle East, Bangladesh and Pakistan. Approximately 98% of the Greek population belongs to the Greek Orthodox Church. BEST TIME Athens is a year-round city and is easy to visit at any time. But the temperate climates of the northern hemisphere spring and autumn make for the best outdoor exploring.

A waitress at Brettos bar draws ouzo from the barrel / ADRIENNE PITTS | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Getting your culture fix with the essential visit to the Acropolis and the National Archeological Museum. Starting the evening in the bars and clubs of the city centre and not emerging until 5am, then heading to the darkened central meat market, where the tavernas turn out huge pots and trays of tasty, traditional home-style dishes, 24 hours a day. STRENGTHS • The Acropolis standing sentinel over Athens • National Archaeological Museum • The Monastiraki flea market • The Ancient and Roman Agoras • Bar-hopping in central Athens • Wandering Plaka with its balconies bulging with geraniums • The bohemian Exarhia district – home to many cheap tavernas, good cafés, alternative book, music and clothing stores, and small live-music venues • Refreshing your eyes and lungs in the delightfully shady National Gardens • Loukoumades (Greek-style doughnuts) served with honey and walnuts • Dining on the terrace at Strofi with views of the illuminated Acropolis • Seeing Euripides performed in the Odeon of Herodes Atticus • Lively rembetika clubs • Benaki Museum • The many city streets and squares fringed with orange trees WEAKNESSES • Nefos (smog) • Lack of public toilets • Traffic • Summer heat

Lively Monastiraki Sq / MILAN GONDA | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For the Acropolis – time, war, pilfering, earthquakes and pollution have not prevented this sacred site from standing dignified and glorious over Athens. STARRING ROLE IN… • Anthismeni Amigdhalia (Almond Trees in Bloom, 1959) • Landscape in the Mist (1988) • Two Faces of January (2014) • The Last Temptation by Nikos Kazantzakis IMPORT • Haute couture • Nescafé • Tourists • Jackie Onassis EXPORT

• Souvlaki • The Olympics • Philosophy • Democracy • Olive oil • Ouzo • Shipping magnates • Maria Callas SEE dusk settle on the symbol of the glory of ancient Greece, the Parthenon, which stands on the highest point of the Acropolis. EAT the best, fresh traditional-style tiropites (cheese pastries) in Athens (and many other tasty variations) at Ariston. DRINK a home-made brew from one of the many on offer at Brettos, a quaint little bar with a stunning array of coloured bottles, old wine barrels and a refreshingly old-fashioned feel. DO get lost among the little whitewashed cube houses in Anafiotika before ascending to explore the Acropolis. WATCH a film at the outdoor cinema in the Zappeio Gardens, where you can sip a wine to add to your viewing pleasure. BUY a pair of traditional sandals from the sandal-making family of Pantelis and Olgianna Melissinos, with stores in the market district of Monastiraki. AFTER DARK check out the Gazi district, radiating out from a renovated gasworks, where a regular procession of well-heeled Athenians spill out on to the plaza in summer.

URBAN TALE As the myth goes, Athena won the honour of being Athens’ patron deity in a battle with Poseidon. After Kekrops, a Phoenician, founded a city on a

rock near the sea, the gods of Olympus proclaimed it should be named after the deity who could provide the most valuable legacy for mortals. Athena (goddess of wisdom) produced an olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity. Poseidon (god of the sea) granted a saltwater spring. The gods judged that Athena’s gift would better serve the citizens of Athens. To this day the goddess dominates Athens’ mythology.

The iconic Parthenon, illuminated at dusk / BORISLAV STEFANOV | 500PX

Austin // USA Texas’s weird and wonderful capital hosts innovative IT, live music, a burgeoning film industry and the best Tex-Mex cuisine in the state.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Austin NICKNAME: Live Music Capital of the World DATE OF BIRTH: 1842; when it began life as the village of Waterloo ADDRESS: USA (map 2, J10) HEIGHT: 178m SIZE: 704 sq km POPULATION: 926,000 ANATOMY Downtown Austin is laid out in an easily navigable grid, with Congress Ave running from the city’s south, across the Colorado River and continuing to the Texas State Capitol. Parallel to Congress, Guadalupe St becomes the Drag, a student mecca for cheap eats and music stores. East 6th St – also running alongside Congress – boasts an array of clubs, bars and nightspots. The Warehouse District to the southwest of Congress is another entertainment district, catering for an older hootenanny, often with gay and lesbian nights. East Austin is now on the rise due to cool-cat bars, cafes and food trucks. The city’s public buses, light rail and bikeshare programme get you around.

Cooling off at Barton Springs Pool / KYLIE MCLAUGHLIN | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Austin’s population has recently grown big-time (mainly due to the tech industry), up by roughly 30% since 2000. Of the city’s inhabitants, 47% are white, 37% Latino, 7% black, 7% Asian and 2% other. Almost 51,000 residents attend UT (as University of Texas is better known), making for a massive student population to keep the music live and the art cutting edge. Austin is a liberal oasis in conservative Texas. Locals prize their strangeness, and ‘Keep Austin Weird’ has become the city’s unofficial motto. BEST TIME Wildflowers and mild weather make March and April the perfect time of year to visit, though crowds amass during March’s South by Southwest festival. In May and June, the weather is hot but bearable, and everything is still green for the most part. Come October, temperatures cool again and the Formula 1 Grand Prix and Austin City Limits festival help to get the party going.

Country bands play all over town / MYLES NEW | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Grabbing a breakfast taco – a spicy start to any day – then working it off with Frisbee golf at Zilker Park, attending a seminar on film at UT, browsing for vintage duds on S Congress Ave, sinking a few margaritas in a honky-tonk on 6th St, and being spooked by the 1.5 million-strong bat colony under Congress Ave Bridge. STRENGTHS • South by Southwest (SXSW) • Barton Springs and Deep Eddy Pools • McKinney Falls State Park • UT • Colorado River • Pennybacker Bridge • Frisbee golf courses • Texas State Capitol • Moonlight Towers • Rainey Street’s funky bars • Lady Bird Lake • Formula 1 Grand Prix WEAKNESSES • Gridlocked traffic • Boiling heat • Relatively limited public transport

Classic Austin street signage / KRIS DAVIDSON | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For live music – every other bar has tunes to get your foot tapping and your boot scooting. STARRING ROLE IN… • Slacker (1991) • Dazed and Confused (1993) • Office Space (1999) • Spy Kids (2001) • Sin City (2005) • Boyhood (2014) • Chef (2014) • Armadillos and Old Lace by Kinky Friedman IMPORT • Michael Dell • Sandra Bullock

• Matthew McConaughey • Tacos, burritos and cervezas (beer) EXPORT • Austin City Limits TV show • Richard Linklater films • Computer bits and pieces via Dell, IBM, Apple and more • Lyndon B Johnson • Laid-back music SEE 1.5 million bats flit forth from under the Congress Ave Bridge at sunset to feast on an estimated 30,000lbs (13,500kg) of insects. EAT the smoked meats at Franklin Barbecue, which taste extra awesome after your likely three-hour, beer-soaked wait in line. DRINK a few Buds at Shady Grove Café on Thursday evening where Austin’s local bands will be rocking the stage. DO hike or bike the 10-mile trail that loops around Lady Bird Lake, especially the boardwalk studded with bronze belt sculptures. WATCH (and maybe get dragged onto the floor yourself) for Texas dancehall at Broken Spoke. BUY curiosities, retro clothes, jewellery and knickknacks at the vintage and craft shops on S Congress Ave. AFTER DARK check out the best retro country (and the cheap brews) at Ginny’s Little Longhorn, a genuine honky-tonk.

URBAN TALE Being state capital has been a tough gig for relaxed Austin. In 1842, Sam Houston, then President of the Republic of Texas, tried to shift the government to Houston, citing the danger of Comanche attacks. The only

thing he left behind were the archives of Texas, which he then sent his Texas Rangers to reclaim one night. The seat of government was saved by innkeeper Ms Angelina Eberly, who raised the alarm by lighting a cannon with her cigar. Without the archives, the government had to return to Austin in 1845 and sly Sam never looked at a cigar the same way again.

S Congress Ave is a hipster haunt / KYLIE MCLAUGHLIN | GETTY IMAGES

Baku // Azerbaijan Combining the best of Europe and Asia, Baku is one of the most remarkable capitals you’ve probably never heard of… unless you’re an oil exec or a fan of Formula One.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Baku DATE OF BIRTH: Bronze Age; though the first historical reference to Baku itself was recorded in the 9th century ADDRESS: Azerbaijan (map 5, M2) HEIGHT: -28m to 200m SIZE: 331 sq km POPULATION: 2.14 million ANATOMY Baku forms a gentle amphitheatre around a bay of the oil-rich Caspian Sea, fronted by a shady waterfront promenade. A fortress-style wall rings the city’s antique heart, Içəri Şəhər, outside which are many grand, century-old mansions and public buildings. The Soviet- and post-Soviet-era city sprawls for miles beyond, with a skyline sprouting ever more 21st-century skyscrapers.

The brightly lit shopping strip of Nizami St / ET1972 | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The vast majority of Bakuvians identify themselves as Muslims but tend to see Islam as a badge of national identity as much as a strict religious code. Nearly two centuries of Russian rule added a strong European cultural element including a wide acceptance of alcohol as social lubricant. Although the small percentage of women who opt for Islamic dress is growing, a far greater proportion of Bakuvian ladies favour lavish make-up and towering stilettoes over flapping chadors. BEST TIME Summers are sweaty but winters rarely dip below freezing. October and March are ideal, the latter coinciding with Azerbaijan’s national holiday season, Novruz.

A spice vendor and her wares / MICHAEL HONEGGER | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Cross the centuries in barely an hour, strolling through the medieval laneways of Içəri Şəhər, past the century-old ‘Oil Boom’ buildings of Istyqqlaliyat St then taking the free funicular up to the 21st-century Flame Towers for an all-encompassing city panorama. STRENGTHS • Dazzling contemporary architecture • Vibrant modern art scene • Summer strolls on shady Baku Bulvar • Içəri Şəhər – the Unesco-listed city core • Fine hotels and suave restaurants at bargain prices since the 2015 currency devaluations • Remarkably safe day or night • Convenient for weekend skiing- or hiking-getaways to the Caucasus Mountains

WEAKNESSES • The lack of pedestrian overpasses across big busy highways • Disappointing beaches • Attitude to LGTB issues GOLD STAR For Baku’s 21st-century architectural showstoppers contrasting with Içəri Şəhər’s maze of narrow passageways, little mosques, atmospheric caravanserais, colourful carpet shops, boutique hotels and medieval palace complex. STARRING ROLE IN… • The World Is Not Enough (1999) • The Diamond Arm (1963) • Eurovision 2012 IMPORT • Oil-workers, especially Scots and Norwegians • Parisian taste with a Russian twist • Global fashion boutiques • Formula One racing EXPORT • Oil and gas • Pomegranate juice • Gary Kasparov, chess grandmaster • Mstislav Rostropovich, cellist and conductor SEE the unforgettable light-show that really seems to make Flame Towers’ trio of 30-storey-plus towers catch fire every evening. EAT fresh, delicious Azerbaijani cuisine in a converted caravanserai, or tuck into excellent European fare in a brilliantly executed facsimile of a Parisian bistro. DRINK tea at a seaside çayxanə, Guinness in an expat pub, fine Azeri wines

in chic restaurant or seek out one of the city’s micro-breweries. DO wander into the less gentrified streets directly north of Fountains Square where Baku’s small alternative arts scene bubbles. WATCH out when discussing politics – the unsettled if ‘frozen’ war with Armenia remains a particularly intense source of pain to almost every Azerbaijani: trying to sound ‘balanced’ about the issue will not win you any friends. BUY locally woven carpets, leaving time to arrange export permits before you leave. AFTER DARK join the Bakuvian passeggiata, strolling with families and love-struck couples in Fountains Square or along the tree-shaded Bulvar promenade watching the fountains and gazing across the Caspian.

URBAN TALE The mysterious Maiden’s Tower remains an object of fascination, but nobody’s sure how old it is, nor what it was actually used for. Some claim it was a lookout tower, some a prison, and others suggest that the rooftop was a Zoroastrian tower of silence, a place on which the city’s dead were placed in order that vultures might pick clean their bones. A museum inside introduces many other curious Maiden’s Tower folk tales.

The relatively new Heydar Mosque / ALEXANDER MELNIKOV | 500PX

Bangkok // Thailand This is a city of contrasts: glass and steel buildings next to temple spires; flowers dangling from dirty buses; monks walking barefoot past Prada stores.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bangkok NICKNAME: Venice of the East DATE OF BIRTH: Mid 16th century; founded as a trading post ADDRESS: Thailand (map 6, J9) HEIGHT: 2m SIZE: 1569 sq km POPULATION: 8.2 million ANATOMY Bangkok is located in the basin of the Chao Phraya River. The skyline is littered with high-rises in the form of shopping malls and major hotel chains but the side streets (sois) harbour a handful of remaining teak houses and traditional Thai buildings, and parts of the older city are still crisscrossed with man-made canals. The Skytrain and the Metro are efficient and airconditioned modes of transportation that circumnavigate the city; alternatively, one of the city’s thousands of taxis or túk-túk (motorised rickshaws) will take you wherever you want to go.

The view from the Three Sixty Lounge of the Millennium Hilton Bangkok Hotel / MJ PROTOTYPE | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The population is mostly Thai, although approximately half of the city’s residents can claim Chinese ancestry, and there’s a visible South Asian population. Bangkok is also a city of immigrants, with a huge population of cooks, construction workers and taxi drivers from Thailand’s northeast, not to mention a growing number of Burmese, Cambodian and Vietnamese labourers. BEST TIME The best time to visit is during Bangkok’s brief ‘winter’ from late November to early January, when the weather is relatively cool and the skies clear. The annual monsoon runs from approximately June to October, and although it rains every day, the rains are often brief (but strong), and the weather occasionally cool. A PERFECT DAY

Heralding the day with a bit of t’ai chi in Lumphini Park and, if your muscles can manage to move after a gruelling Thai massage, unwinding with a cocktail on top of a skyscraper followed by a streetside meal. STRENGTHS • Cheap and delicious street food • Markets on every street • A vast spread of great-value accommodation • LGBT friendly • Amazing value massage • Cheap, generally reliable taxis WEAKNESSES • Pollution – you may as well smoke a packet a day • Relentlessly hot and humid weather • Scams, although they’re generally low-pressure and easy to avoid • Traffic congestion • Lack of greenery • Tacky, visible sex industry GOLD STAR For Ayuthaya Historical Park – a Unesco World Heritage site 80km north of Bangkok, where historic temples are scattered throughout the former capital and along the encircling rivers. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Bridge on the River Kwai (1957) • Tropical Malady (2004) • The Hangover Part II (2011) • The Beach by Alex Garland • The Windup Girl by Paolo Bacigalupi IMPORT • Japanese food • Football • 7-Eleven

• US-style mall culture • Scrabble – used as a learning aid • Doughnuts – Thais are fanatical about them EXPORT • Rich, coconut milk-based curries • Thai massage • Exquisite silk • Red Bull (you can still get the original formula in Thailand) • Siamese cats SEE the dizzying mobile-phone floor at MBK shopping centre. EAT a bag of green mango wedges coated in sugar, lime juice and chilli – not for a weak stomach. DRINK Singha Beer while people-watching on Khao San Rd. DO have a heavy-duty one-hour massage on the sprawling king-size beds at the Wat Pho school of massage. WATCH river life and longboats cruise languidly by from a riverside café. BUY a protective amulet from the amulet market near the Grand Palace or the funkiest clothing for your pooch at the Chatuchak weekend market. AFTER DARK scan the city from one of several rooftop bars.

URBAN TALE According to legend, the Emerald Buddha, which was created in 43 BC in Pataliputra, India, was rediscovered when lightning struck a pagoda in a temple in Chiang Rai. It was covered in stucco but a small chip on its nose revealed a hint of green. The emerald was later revealed to be jade but the name stuck. The Emerald Buddha now resides at Wat Phra Kaew.

The colourful Amphawa floating market / NIMON | SHUTTERSTOCK

Barcelona // Spain The city of Gaudí and Miró captivates with its proud Catalan identity, roaring nightlife, fine cuisine, sunny weather, sandy beaches and style – Barcelona is addictive.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Barcelona DATE OF BIRTH: 3rd century BC; when Romans established Barcino ADDRESS: Spain (map 4, H16) HEIGHT: 93m SIZE: 101 sq km (city); 1072 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 1.6 million (city); 5.3 million (metro area) ANATOMY The wide tree-lined boulevard La Rambla is Barcelona’s main thoroughfare, leading from the port up to Plaça de Catalunya where you’ll find buses and taxis. East of La Rambla is the Barri Gòtic with its medieval winding streets and catedral (cathedral). Over the road, El Raval, the more run-down part of the old quarter, has rejuvenated to become one of the city’s hippest, most bohemian zones. North of here, L’Eixample is home to most of Barcelona’s Modernista architecture. To the southwest stands the 173m hill of Montjuïc. Along the coast are spiffy Port Vell, the old fishing quarter of La Barceloneta and bustling Port Olímpic beyond.

The trendy El Born neighbourhood / LEMON TREE IMAGES | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Bilingual Barcelona (Catalan and Castilian Spanish) has become a multicultural city, with around 17% of the population coming from as far afield as Ecuador, Argentina, Morocco and Pakistan. The city is not as predominantly Catalan as the rest of the region and many residents come from other parts of Spain. Barcelonins generally inhabit apartments – a lack of space means a lack of houses. All dream of an apartment with a terrassa. Many residents escape the city to a second property at weekends. Football is almost a religion and most people support FC Barcelona. Remember that Barcelonins live in Catalonia and not Spain. BEST TIME The sweltering summer (July and August) is peak tourist season, when crowds swarm the city – and its beaches. For pleasant weather, but without the ocean dips, come in late spring (May).

Leafy, pedestrianised La Rambla / PERESANZ | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Breathing in the morning air on La Barceloneta beach before strolling into El Born for a coffee, then heading up to L’Eixample for Gaudí architecture at La Pedrera and a spot of shopping. STRENGTHS • Bolets (wild mushrooms) • Arròs negre (rice in black cuttlefish ink) • Late-night partying • Festes de la Mercè, the city’s main festival • Proximity to the Pyrenees for skiing and hiking • The Costa Brava • Romanesque and Gothic churches • Modernista architecture • FC Barcelona football and basketball teams • Reduced levels of air pollution • Natural-gas buses • Streets hosed down every night • Museu Picasso • La Sagrada Familia • Parc Güell • Affordable Spanish fashion • La Pedrera • Museu Marítim • Sardana folk dance • Tech savvy populace WEAKNESSES • Expensive real estate • Uncertainty regarding Catalan independence • Litter • Els Boixos Nois (The Mad Boys), local football hooligans • Noise pollution

A busy tapas bar in Barri Gòtic / MICHAEL HEFFERNAN | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For being the exemplar of Modernista architecture. STARRING ROLE IN… • Todo Sobre Mi Madre (All About My Mother, 1999) • Gaudí Afternoon (2001) • L’Auberge Espagnol (The Spanish Apartment, 2002) • Perfume: The Story of a Murderer (2006) • Vicky Cristina Barcelona (2008) • Biutiful (2010) • A Gun in Each Hand (2012) • The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón IMPORT • Cruise ships • Pablo Picasso • Jean Genet

• Stag and hen parties EXPORT • Antoni Gaudí • Salvador Dalí • Joan Miró • Cava • Chef Ferran Adrià • Chupa Chups • Antonio Miró • Mango clothes shop • Seat cars • Flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya SEE Gaudí’s huge architectural confection, La Sagrada Familia, unfinished and yet awe-inspiring. EAT artisanal cheeses, smoked meats, olives and chocolate truffles at the food stalls and tapas bars at bountiful Mercat de la Boqueria. DRINK cocktails at the 1933 Art Deco Boadas whose founder served Hemingway in Havana. DO learn all about Picasso’s early works at the fascinating Museu Picasso. WATCH men offering women roses and women giving men books on Día de Sant Jordi, the feast of Catalonia’s patron saint. BUY vintage fashion, prints and curiosities in the indie shops of El Raval. AFTER DARK bump and grind down to Port Olímpic for your pick of the clubs.

URBAN TALE Gaudí didn’t start or finish La Sagrada Familia. Having replaced

another architect in 1884, he became obsessed by the project, planning three ornate facades devoted to the Nativity, Passion and Glory, each crowned by four towers. The design was so complicated that he only saw the creation of the Nativity. When asked why he was fussing about the top of the towers he replied, ‘the angels will see them’. In 1926 he was tragically hit by a tram and died. In 1952, work restarted and the still unfinished architectural masterpiece is visited by millions every year.

The chimneys of Casa Milà, popularly known as La Pedrera, by Antoni Gaudí / VLADA Z | SHUTTERSTOCK

Beijing // China The sheer size of the capital of the world’s most-populous nation is aweinspiring, and between the highways and skyscrapers is fascinating Chinese imperial history.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Beijing DATE OF BIRTH: 500,000 years ago; when the southern area of Beijing was inhabited by ‘Peking Man’; its modern history dates from 1045 BC ADDRESS: China (map 6, N1) HEIGHT: 52m SIZE: 750 sq km (city); 16,411 (metro area) POPULATION: 8 million (city); 21.7 million (metro area) ANATOMY At the heart of the massive conurbation lies Beijing’s iconic Tiananmen Sq and beyond it the vast imperial palace known as the Forbidden City. To its north is the atmospheric Drum Tower and nearby Tibetan Buddhist Lama Temple, with plenty of hip hutong bars in between. West of here is an expansive, picturesque lake with shore-side temples; while eastwards you’ll find Sanlitun, Beijing’s main expat enclave and the city’s nightlife and shopping capital. Directly south of Tiananmen is the majestic Temple of Heaven, another unmissable sight. The city is served by an efficient metro system and an extensive bus network.

The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, in the Temple of Heaven complex / NINO H. PHOTOGRAPHY | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Like a magnet, Beijing attracts Chinese seeking their fortunes from all over the country, although the vast majority of the population is made up of Han Chinese speaking Beijing Hua, which is a dialect of Mandarin (or putonghua) unique to the capital. There’s a big expat community centred on Sanlitun. BEST TIME For the best weather aim to go from April to June, and September to November.

The skyscrapers of Beijing’s central business district / DUKAI PHOTOGRAPHER | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Standing gobsmacked in the middle of Tiananmen Sq, overwhelmed by its sheer vastness and grandiose arrangement, as you watch the ceremony of marching soldiers raising the Chinese flag at sunrise; later taking a random side street leading into a labyrinth of hutong alleyways to discover the local way of life, something that feels unchanged for centuries, with a wonderful sense of community and lively atmosphere. STRENGTHS • Amazing sightseeing • Superb food • The hutong (alleyways where traditional housing and ways of life continue as ever) give the city a human face • Fantastic optimism and dynamism • Rich history • Traditional arts • Craft beer • Underground music scene • Speakeasy bars WEAKNESSES • Smog • The city’s sheer size and sprawl • The endless erosion of the hutong and the advance of concrete and asphalt • Spitting in the streets

A rickshaw driver takes a break / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For the Forbidden City. China’s largest and best-preserved collection of ancient buildings, and the largest palace complex in the world, is almost overwhelming because of its plethora of temples, galleries, treasures and imperial Chinese gardens. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Last Emperor (1987) • Farewell My Concubine (1993) • The Gate of Heavenly Peace (1995) • Beijing Bicycle (2001) • Big Shot’s Funeral (2001) • Red Light Revolution (2010) IMPORT • Starbucks • American fast food (both the chain restaurants and hipster diners) • Designer fashion labels • Soybeans EXPORT • Peking duck • Jade • Oolong tea • Baijiu (sorghum wine) • Actor Jet Li SEE the astonishing imperial apartments and temples within the Forbidden City. EAT Peking duck with plum sauce, knocked back with a crisp Yanjing beer. DRINK craft beer such as an IPA infused with Sichuan peppercorn at one of its brewhouses.

DO experience green tea at a traditional teahouse. WATCH Beijing Opera for an unforgettably Chinese night out. BUY your Mao Zedong watches at the not-very-communist gift shop outside his mausoleum. AFTER DARK head out for a boat ride on magical Houhai Lake.

URBAN TALE By his later years, Mao Zedong – champion of the people – had moved himself and his entourage into the Forbidden City, having turned quickly from liberator into Communist emperor. Mao’s final years were spent in virtual seclusion, receiving guests in a private chamber he never left and having only one young concubine who could translate his speech into Chinese, so debilitated was he by a rare disease of the nervous system. The preserved body of this deeply contradictory man is now on public display in his Tiananmen Sq mausoleum.

Strolling along Yandan (Pipe) hutong / KATOOSHA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Beirut // Lebanon Though a place of contrasts, Beirut’s sun, sea, sand and sights has earned it a reputation as the Middle East’s most glamorous city.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Beirut DATE OF BIRTH: Stone Age; the earliest traces of humans date from this time, when Beirut was two islands in the delta of the Beirut River ADDRESS: Lebanon (map 5, G6) HEIGHT: 34m SIZE: 20 sq km POPULATION: 2.23 million ANATOMY Bound north to south by the Mediterranean Sea, the west of Beirut is very hilly, flattening out to the east. The Hamra district in West Beirut is one of the city’s hubs, where you’ll find the ministry of tourism, major banks, hotels and restaurants. North of Hamra is Ras Beirut, filled with coffee bars and cheap restaurants. The Corniche is the area where Beirutis come to promenade. On the hill to the southeast is the prosperous Achrafiye; here many older buildings are still intact and it is a great place to wander. Most people use service taxis to get around, a huge number of which run like buses on set routes, carrying around five passengers.

Beirut from the air / DKARANOUH | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Beirut’s population is 60% Muslim and 40% Christian. Ethnic groups comprise Arabs, Palestinians, Kurds and Armenians, and Arabic, French, English and Armenian are spoken. Battle-scarred but unbowed, Beirutis have seen it all and, many of them at least, decided long ago to not let it get in the way of the good times – eating well, dancing the night away and generally enjoying life are Beirut hallmarks. BEST TIME The optimum time for being in Beirut is from June to September, when you can expect warm, dry days and mild Mediterranean evenings. April, May and October are a touch cooler but there’s a chance of rain, while winter (November to March) can be surprisingly chilly and rains are always possible.

The blue-domed Mohammed al-Amin Mosque / 1001NIGHTS | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Exploring the shattered reminders of the civil war along the city’s former Green Line, experiencing 6000 years of history at the National Museum, then joining the city out for a stroll along the Corniche as dusk descends over the Mediterranean. STRENGTHS • The Corniche • The National Museum • Joie de vivre • Ottoman houses • American University of Beirut Museum • Genuine hospitality • Pigeon Rocks • Martyrs’ Statue • Souq el Barghout • Seafront cafés • Vibrant arts scene • St George Cathedral • Religious and social diversity • Within easy reach of other cities and sights in Lebanon WEAKNESSES • Near-constant political turmoil – stay informed • Wild traffic • Potholes • Unlicensed taxis (it is recommended women avoid these at night) • Lack of street numbers and conflicting street names GOLD STAR For optimism – Beirut is a city well on the mend, where visitors can see a phoenix-like transformation in progress. STARRING ROLE IN…

• The Hills of Adonis by Colin Thubron • A House of Many Mansions by Kamal Salibi • Pity the Nation by Robert Fisk IMPORT • Assorted Muslim and Christian denominations • A glut of designer stores • Tourists • Refugees, especially from Pakistan and Syria EXPORT • Agriculture • Banking and finance • Construction • Singer Fairuz • Author Hanan al-Shaykh • Author Amin Maalouf SEE modern Lebanese plays in Arabic, French and occasionally English at the Al-Medina Theatre. EAT a fusion of Eastern and Western cuisines at Casablanca, a restaurant in one of the few intact Ottoman houses on the Corniche. DRINK potent Arabic coffee at coffee house Kahwet Leila, where the style of Old Beirut lives on. DO peruse the traditional Palestinian embroidery at Al-Badia; the shop has garments handmade by refugee women who benefit from the proceeds. WATCH horse racing of a Sunday at the Hippodrome, one of the only places in the Middle East where you can legally place a bet. BUY melt-in-your-mouth baklava and other pastries from Amal al-Bohsali, Beirut’s most famous pastry shop for decades. AFTER DARK be part of Beirut’s social mosaic on an evening stroll along

the Corniche.

URBAN TALE Lebanese-born poet Khalil Gibran (1883-1931) is, by some estimates, the third biggest-selling poet in history behind Shakespeare and Lao Tse. He spent most of his working life in the US except for some formative years in Beirut, but he remains the flag-bearer for Arabic poetry. His masterpiece, The Prophet (1923), which consists of 26 poetic essays, became, after the Bible, America’s second biggest-selling book of the 20th century.

Looking out over Pigeon Rocks in Raouche / INGRID RASMUSSEN | GETTY IMAGES

Belfast // Northern Ireland Belfast is a city transformed: after violence and stagnation during the Troubles, there’s a palpable positive energy, outstanding restaurants, hip hotels and ace drinking holes.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Belfast DATE OF BIRTH: 1611; when Chichester’s colony settled, though a Norman castle was built in 1177; Celtic occupation dates back to the Iron Age ADDRESS: Northern Ireland (map 4, D6) HEIGHT: 17m SIZE: 115 sq km POPULATION: 280,900 ANATOMY Belfast’s compact city centre curls around the undulating west bank of the River Lagan, with the steep slopes of Black Mountain and Cave Hill beyond. It’s a child of the Industrial Revolution; imposing Victorian architecture and leafy gardens are set against the cranes of the Harland and Wolff shipyards where the RMS Titanic was built, restored warehouses and row upon row of workers’ terraced houses. Buses and trains serve the city, and chartered black cabs – the people’s taxis – ply the main roads of sectarian West Belfast.

Reflections in the River Lagan / ADRIAN MANDADO CENDON | 500PX

PEOPLE The overwhelming majority of Belfast’s citizens were born in the UK and Ireland; just 6.6% hail from elsewhere in Europe and beyond, mainly China and India. Census figures place the number of Catholics at 49%, followed by Protestants at 42% (which is a reversal in the last decade from a Protestant majority). BEST TIME Flowers bloom throughout the city’s parks and gardens in spring, and the Belfast Film Festival showcases Irish and international filmmakers’ works in April. Summer, especially August, brings good weather for walking and cycling, along with celebrations of Irish music and dance in West Belfast during Féile An Phobail, plus street parties and a carnival parade. October can start to get a little chilly, but the Festival at Queen’s, the UK’s second largest arts festival (after Edinburgh), certainly warms things up.

Relaxing at a pub in Cathedral Quarter / ANTHONY LIVINGSTONE | 500PX

A PERFECT DAY Learning all about the ill-fated Titanic at Titanic Belfast, recently voted Europe’s leading visitor attraction at the World Travel Awards, before hopping in a cab for a Black Taxi tour of Belfast’s murals, visiting the chilling Crumlin Road Gaol, and nursing a pint at historic White’s Tavern en route to dinner in the arty, gentrified Cathedral Quarter. STRENGTHS • Amazing Victorian architecture: City Hall and the Grand Opera House • Beautiful Botanical Gardens • Views of the encircling mountains • Queen’s University • Ulster Museum • Compact but still resolutely urban centre • Friendly to visitors • Lagan Towpath • Resilience • Titanic Belfast • Game of Thrones connections • Foodie scene WEAKNESSES • July’s Orange Order parades, perceived by many as divisive and confrontational • Undeserved grim reputation • Remnants of old-school sectarianism • Spides (the Belfast term for local male hoodlums)

Titanic Belfast: everything you could want to know about the ill-fated ship / NAHLIK | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For wonderfully traditional pubs, such as White’s Tavern, Kelly’s Cellars, Bittle’s Bar, the Duke of York and the National Trust-protected Crown Liquor Saloon: an essential part of any visit. STARRING ROLE IN… • Divorcing Jack (1998) • The Most Fertile Man in Ireland (1999) • The Mighty Celt (2005) • This Human Season by Louise Dean • Game of Thrones (TV series 2011-present) IMPORT • Day-tripping Dubliners • Students • Black cabs

• Mural art • Italian craftsmen (in the 1880s) EXPORT • Ships • Linen • Van Morrison • Stephan Rea • Sir Kenneth Branagh • Rory McIlroy SEE Titanic Belfast alongside the giant yellow cranes, Samson and Goliath, from onboard a boat on the River Lagan. EAT fresh-as-it-gets seafood at Mourne Seafood Bar. DRINK craft beers from Ireland’s oldest independent brewery, Hilden Brewery. DO take in the Falls and Shankill Rd’s political murals. WATCH a big-name act play Ulster Hall or an up-and-coming one at Limelight. BUY interior design pieces, chic fashion and gourmet deli goods along trendy Lisburn Rd. AFTER DARK catch some live music, comedy, theatre, film, visual art and more at the intimate Black Box.

URBAN TALE The Crown Liquor Saloon, a heavily touristed but still authentic city pub, has a sectarian love story all its own. When the establishment was being renovated in 1885, the Catholic owner, Patrick Flanagan, argued with his Protestant wife over a new and fitting name. She eventually got her

way and they opted for ‘The Crown’, despite the fact that it was symbolic of the British regime. Flanagan’s acquiescence came with a cheeky subversion though: he ordered a crown mosaic for the doorstep so that every punter would trample it upon entering.

Palm House in the Belfast Botanic Gardens / MOLLY KATE | 500PX

Belgrade // Serbia Unpretentious Belgrade is like a bohemian refuge from its slick European cousins, and the city is constantly reinventing itself.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Belgrade DATE OF BIRTH: 2300 years ago; since then Belgrade has been destroyed and rebuilt 40 times ADDRESS: Serbia (map 4, R13) HEIGHT: 117m SIZE: 36 sq km (city); 322 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 1.65 million ANATOMY Terazije, the central square, is the heart of modern Belgrade. Knez Mihailova is a lively pedestrian boulevard running northwest through Stari Grad (old town) from Terazije to the Kalemegdan Citadel, which lords over the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. North of the river are two areas totally different in character from the south-side old town: the sprawling boulevards and concrete apartment blocks of communist-era New Belgrade, and the quaint narrow streets of Zemun, once the southernmost border town of Austria-Hungary. Buses, trolleybuses and trams will get you around town.

Belgrade facades and the Sava River glisten in the sun / VLADIMIR NENEZIC | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The country is a rich tapestry of ethnicities made up of Serb (85%), Albanian, Hungarian, Bosniak, Montenegrin, Croatian and Roma communities, and Belgrade is equally diverse. The majority of the population are Orthodox Christians, though there are smaller Catholic and Muslim communities. BEST TIME Belgrade’s continental climate, with hot summers and cold winters, means the best time to visit is late spring and early autumn. Not only is the weather more moderate, but some of the top events on the city’s packed festival calendar happen during this time, from Belgrade Marathon in April and Museum Night in May, to BITEF (Belgrade International Theatre Festival) in September and BEMUS (Belgrade Music Festivities) in October. A PERFECT DAY Exploring the impressive Kalemegdan Citadel and the café-lined pedestrian boulevard of Knez Mihailova, followed by riverside relaxation over a fish

lunch on Zemun quay and learning about Belgrade’s heyday at the Museum of Yugoslav History. STRENGTHS • World-class nightlife • A living history • Life on two rivers, and huge parks like Topčider and Košutnjak • Go-anywhere bus and tram network • Deli central: melt-in-your-mouth kajmak (salty clotted cream) and delectable grilled meats (pljeskavica and ražnjići) • Multilingual population • Affordability • Fascinating museums • Gregarious young people • A smorgasbord of festivals, from jazz to film WEAKNESSES • Daytime traffic congestion • Limited vegetarian options • Not enough midrange accommodation • Widespread indoor smoking • Plenty of grey, crumbling facades GOLD STAR For the kind of effortlessly cool nightlife that promoters the world over can only dream of recreating. Belgraders are happy to stay out all night and go straight to work the next day. STARRING ROLE IN… • Premeditated Murder (1995) • Cabaret Balkan (1998) • Sky Hook (2000) • Munje (Thunderbirds; 2001) • When I Grow up, I’ll be a Kangaroo (2004) • Montevideo, Taste of a Dream (2010)

IMPORT • All things Italian fashion: Gucci, Benneton, Sisley • All things Italian automotive: Vespa, Fiat, Alfa Romeo EXPORT • Novak Djoković • Basketball players • Super-soft leather • A medley of berry fruits • Top-notch cheeses • Šljivovica, a plum-infused rakija (brandy) • Labour: brainy professionals to do-anything workers SEE Belgrade’s ancient Kalemegdan Citadel and street art in Savamala, the hot alternative-culture district. EAT Balkan cuisine with an innovative contemporary twist at Ambar in Beton Hala, a hip, converted riverside warehouse. DRINK cocktails at Blaznavac, a wonderful café, bar and exhibition space in the historic Dorćol neighbourhood. DO saunter along Knez Mihailova, a treasure-trove of historical buildings with great people-watching opportunities. WATCH roving Roma musicians in Skadarlija – Belgrade’s answer to Paris’ Montmartre. BUY something lacy for a special occassion or hand-knitted woollens from the vendors in Kalemegdan Park. AFTER DARK dance at one of the city’s many night-owl haunts, such as the Kenozoik club or Povetarac river barge.

URBAN TALE

Belgrade is the meeting place of two rivers, the Danube and the Sava. The city’s symbol, the Victor monument on Kalemegdan, stands proudly high above the confluence. Erected after WWI, it was originally intended for Terazije, but the public outrage against a nude male sculpture in the centre of town was such that the monument ended up at its impressive present location.

Atmospheric Skadarlija, the old bohemian quarter / PETER FORSBERG | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Belize City // Belize Belize City’s ramshackle, untidy streets are alive with colourful characters representing every facet of an amazing ethnic variety.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Belize City DATE OF BIRTH: 1779; when ‘Belize Town’ became the British headquarters in Belize ADDRESS: Belize (map 3, E4) HEIGHT: 5m SIZE: 36 sq km POPULATION: 57,169 ANATOMY Haulover Creek, running across the middle of the city, separates the downtown commercial area (focused on Albert St) from the slightly more genteel Fort George district to the northeast. The Swing Bridge – hub of the city – crosses Haulover Creek to link Albert St with Queen St. North up the coast from the Fort George district are the Newtown Barracks and Kings Park neighbourhoods. West of Albert St is the Southside, the poorest part of the city. There is a bus network, but walking is often your best option.

Swing Bridge and downtown Belize City / TYRONE DOMINGO | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Belize City enjoys a fabulous, improbable ethnic diversity. Creoles – descendants of British loggers and colonists and African slaves – now form about 25%. Racially mixed and proud of it, Creoles speak a fascinating, unique version of English, the country’s official language. Mestizos (of mixed Spanish and indigenous descent) are Belize’s largest ethnic group at 53%. The rest are a mix of the Maya, the Garifuna, ‘East Indians’ (of Indian subcontinent origins), Chinese, Arabs (known as Lebanese), North Americans and Europeans. BEST TIME Weather-wise, the best time to visit Belize City is from early December to mid-April, during dry season. The downside is you’ll have to contend with crowds of tourists and book in advance if you have your heart set on a certain hotel room or restaurant table. But it’s a worthwhile trade-off for sunshine and clear skies.

A Creole man catches up on the daily news / ALEX ROBINSON | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Visiting the centre of activity in Belize City, the Swing Bridge, enjoying the traditional Belizean dish of rice and beans, then taking in the colonial architecture and cooling sea breezes of the Fort George district. STRENGTHS • Swing Bridge – the only remaining working bridge of its type in the world • Multiculturalism • Free education • Image Factory art gallery • Street vibe • Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary • Lovingly cooked Creole-style fish • Tolerance • Calypso music • Relaxed atmosphere • Environmentally friendly focus WEAKNESSES • Violent crime is common in the Southside district • Oppressive heat • Influx of cruise-ship tourists • The city is a stopover rather than a specific destination for most travellers • The divide between rich and poor causes frequent protests GOLD STAR For the atmosphere and street life: these, more than anything else, are what make Belize City worth exploring. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Dogs of War (1980) • Mosquito Coast (1986) • Heart of Darkness (1993)

IMPORT • Mennonites • Football • Cruise-ship visitors • Bird-watching enthusiasts • Racial diversity • Scuba divers EXPORT • Punta rock • The Garifuna • Bananas • Oranges • Ecotourism • Howler monkeys, jaguars and toucans SEE the heart and soul of Belize City life, the Swing Bridge, which is crossed by just about everyone here just about every day. EAT spicy jerk chicken; pork with rice, beans and vegetables; tasty shrimp Creole or a lobster-and- fish combo at a local restaurant. DRINK a ‘seaweed shake’ sold by a street vendor – an adventurous blend of condensed milk, spices and extract of the seaweed Eucheuma isoforme, which grows underwater as a tangle of yellow branches. DO encounter howler monkeys at close quarters at the Community Baboon Sanctuary. WATCH Belize’s amazing wildlife – jaguars, pumas, frogs, crocodiles, toucans, vultures, boa constrictors – at the national zoo. BUY exquisite carvings made from the strikingly streaked wood, called zericote, at the Belizean Handicraft Market Place. AFTER DARK catch a concert of traditional Belizean music at the 600-seat Bliss Centre for the Performing Arts.

URBAN TALE The country declared independence from Britain in 1964. But it was still named ‘British Honduras’ until 1973, when Belize assumed its current name. The etymology is disputed, but some believe the name ‘Belize’ comes from the Mayan word belix, meaning ‘muddy water’. The word was found in the notebooks of a Dominican priest, Fray José Delgado, who wrote about the major rivers he crossed while travelling along the Caribbean coast in the late 17th century. It’s thought that his recorded name for one river, Balis, was actually a reference to the muddy waters of the Belize River.

Wild howler monkeys can be seen just outside of Belize City / PRISMA BILDAGENTUR AG | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Bengaluru // India Bengaluru has lived some very different lives across the centuries – Hindu kingdom, sultan’s playground, colonial admin hub, and now, the shining light of India’s technological revolution. It’s also the third busiest port of arrival into India.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bengaluru (Bangalore) NICKNAME: Garden City, Silicon Valley of India DATE OF BIRTH: 1537; when the city was formally founded by the Hindu king Kempe Gowda 1 ADDRESS: India (map 6, D9) HEIGHT: 920m SIZE: 741 sq km POPULATION: 8.4 million ANATOMY Rising from a flat plain to the south of the Nandi Hills, the city is centred on Cubbon Park, the heart of the old colonial quarter. Dotted with old Raj-era institutions, this is the main traveller hub, and nearby Mahatma Gandhi Rd is Bengaluru’s busiest shopping street. Around this kernel, the city sprawls in a haphazard fashion through a string of more modern suburbs; the main train station and bus stand are a kilometre west of the centre, and buses, taxis, autorickshaws and the new Bengaluru Metro ferry people around downtown.

Bangalore Palace, residence of maharajas / SAIKO3P | SHUTTERSTOOCK

PEOPLE The population of Bengaluru is surging as incomers from the countryside flock here in search of jobs and career opportunities. Around 79% of residents are Hindu, 13% are Muslim, and there are sizeable Christian and Jain communities. Although the city is famously prosperous, around 10% of residents live in slum tenements. Around half of the population speak Kannada as their first language, but Hindi, Tamil and English are also used widely. BEST TIME Bengaluru cooks in April and May, before the welcome monsoon rains cool everything down from June to September. Most travellers opt for the pleasantly warm winter months from October to March, which see clear skies most days.

Lemons for sale at a local market / PETER ADAMS | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Starting the day early with the chrysanthemum traders at Krishnarajendra Market, then grabbing a coffee breakfast at Koshy’s before strolling around Cubbon Park, admiring the colonial architecture. The afternoon is best spent admiring the artworks at the National Gallery of Modern Art, before sinking some craft ales at a local microbrewery. STRENGTHS • Energy and dynamism • Cosmopolitan attitudes • Few hassles for travellers • Excellent shopping and adventurous fine dining • Grand colonial buildings • Abundant museums and art galleries • Fading royal palaces • Lively nightlife • The hub of India’s microbrewery revolution • The green lungs of Cubbon Park • Easy excursions to the Nandi Hills WEAKNESSES • Few top-tier sights • A slightly incoherent layout • Dust and traffic noise • Heavy demand for train seats into and out of Bengaluru • Downtown pollution

Vidhana Soudha, the the legislative chambers of the state government / NOPPASIN | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For progressive attitudes. Bengaluru is India’s most cosmopolitan city, where IT professionals of both genders pause to light incense at office shrines before congregating in hip bars to sip real ales and talk about adventure sports and world travel. It’s the most relaxed place to arrive in India by quite a long way. STARRING ROLE IN… • Sholay (1975) • Pushpaka Vimana (1987) • The Hope Factory by Lavanya Sankaran IMPORT • Colonial bureaucracy • Outsourced tech support • Computer whiz kids

• Craft brewing • International fastfood chains • Guitar-based rock with an Indian edge • Jeans and T-shirts EXPORT • IT knowhow • Craft beers • Talented cricketers • Actor Rajinikanth • IT mogul Narayana Murthy • Innovation SEE Indian artworks in a building that is itself an Indian work of art: the National Gallery of Modern Art. EAT at a Bengaluru institution – Koshy’s – a favourite haunt for generations of lawyers, journalists and intellectuals. DRINK some of India’s finest craft beers at one of Bengaluru’s buzzing microbreweries. DO duck between the fragrant flower stalls at the heart of Krishnarajendra Market. WATCH the crowd erupt into riotous applause during a Twenty20 cricket match at M Chinnaswamy Stadium. BUY sandalwood – the speciality of Karnataka – ground into incense, infused into soaps or delicately carved into statues and ornaments at the Cauvery Arts & Crafts Emporium. AFTER DARK rock out to jazz, rock, blues and even heavy metal at one of Bengaluru’s live music lounges.

URBAN TALE

Despite its modern, progressive take on life, Bengaluru is still superstitious at heart. Many of the city’s buildings, from condos to office towers, are built according to principles of vastu shastra – an ancient Vedic code of architecture that dictates everything from spatial geometry and room proportions to the placement of doors. The city even has fleets of vastu shastra consultants, charging hefty fees for ensuring that building projects meet the correct philosophical requirements.

Local life on a Bengaluru street / CEDRIC WEBER | SHUTTERSTOOCK

Berlin // Germany Truly a 24/7 city, where a spirit of innovation, tolerance and levity roars with unapologetic abandon. Perpetually in flux, Berlin refuses to be pigeonholed.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Berlin NICKNAME: Europe’s Capital of Cool DATE OF BIRTH: 1237; Berlin was founded by itinerant merchants as a trading post on the Spree River ADDRESS: Germany (map 4, N7) HEIGHT: 55m SIZE: 892 sq km POPULATION: 3.65 million ANATOMY Apart from numerous rivers, canals and lakes, Berlin lacks distinctive geographical features – you’re likely to use buildings as a way of orienting yourself. Some of the city’s rare hills were actually made from WWII rubble. Berlin’s spread-out nature means you’ll be relying on public transport: UBahns, S-Bahns, buses and trams.

The lights of Alexanderplatz and the Fernsehturm television tower / TAFELZWERK. | GETTY IMAGES | FLICKR RF

PEOPLE Berliners enjoy a reputation for being tolerant, innovative and well educated. Locals follow the maxim ‘live and let live’ and put greater value on individual freedoms and individuality than on material wealth. The city is a patchwork of people from 190 countries, including more than 100,000 refugees, mostly from war-torn Syria, Afghanistan and Iraq. Turks constitute the largest immigrant group, which is a legacy of the worker migration to West Berlin in the 1960s and ’70s. English is widely spoken, although less so among older people from East Berlin, who studied Russian as a second language in school. BEST TIME Ideal months for visiting Berlin are May to September, when life pretty much moves outdoors, the festival season is in full swing, the sun doesn’t set until 9 or 10pm and it’s often warm and sunny. July and August are generally peak tourist season, so expect long queues at museums and attractions. Afternoon

thunderstorms are also common in the summer months.

Badeschiff, a floating swimming pool on the River Spree / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Losing yourself in Berlin’s blockbuster galleries and museums, checking out cutting-edge street art in Mitte and Kreuzberg, swimming in a lake or at Badeschiff (in summer), before hitting the clubs on a Sunday, with a Currywurst to finish. STRENGTHS • Cosmopolitan vibe and outlook • Easy-going and non-conformist attitudes • Willingness to make modern architectural statements • History around every corner • Dynamic start-up scene • Superb nightlife and entertainment scene • Comparatively affordable • Exploding foodie scene • Efficient public transport • Citywide love of new ideas • Multiculturalism • Vibrant contemporary arts scene • Summertime festivals • 24/7 doner kebabs • Parks, lakes and open spaces • Schloss Charlottenburg WEAKNESSES • Lack of affordable housing • Credit cards not widely accepted • Gentrification • Lackadaisical service • Global hipster invasion • Long, cold and dark winters • Red tape and bureaucracy • Low salaries • Not bike-friendly enough

• ‘The wall in the mind’ • No Sunday shopping

The landmark Brandenburg Gate now epitomises German reunification / RICOWDE | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For nightlife – Berlin is one of the coolest party spots and locals throw themselves into the fray. STARRING ROLE IN… • Berlin: Sinfonie einer Großstadt (Berlin: Symphony of a City, 1927) • Cabaret (1972) • Der Himmel über Berlin (Wings of Desire, 1987) • Lola rennt (Run Lola Run, 1997) • Good Bye Lenin! (2003) • Der Untergang (Downfall, 2004) • Das Leben der Anderen (The Lives of Others, 2006) • Oh Boy (A Coffee in Berlin, 2012) IMPORT • Christopher Isherwood

• David Bowie • Lou Reed • Iggy Pop • Nick Cave • Bertolt Brecht • Refugees • Stem cells for research • Street food • Craft beer • Gastropubs • Third-wave coffee • Gin bars • Vegan food obsession EXPORT • Computers • Condoms • SoundCloud • Knirps folding umbrella • Street cars • Cabaret • Doner kebabs • Marlene Dietrich • The painter George Grosz • The bands Einstürzende Neubauten and Tangerine Dream • Currywurst • Nina Hagen • Leni Riefenstahl • Techno • Siemens • Helmut Newton SEE what life in the shadow of the Berlin Wall was like by visiting the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall Memorial). EAT Berlin specialities like Pfannkuchen (donut-like pastry), Currywurst

(curry-dusted sausage in tomato sauce), doner kebab, or Eisbein (boiled pork hock). DRINK a bottle of beer you bought in a store while watching the sunset over Oberbaumbrücke, in Mauerpark or on Tempelhofer Feld. DO budget a few hours to marvel at 6000 years’ worth of treasure on Museum Island. WATCH a dazzling variety show at cabaret-style Chamäleon Varieté or Bar Jeder Vernunft. BUY wacky GDR-era trinkets at a Sunday flea market. AFTER DARK pack your stamina and hit the party circuit in Kreuzberg, Friedrichshain or Neukölln until the wee hours or beyond.

URBAN TALE Europe’s first (hand-operated) traffic light was installed in Potsdamer Platz in 1924. A replica can be found in the same spot today.

U-Bahns cross the Oberbaum Bridge / SCOTT WILSON | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Bern // Switzerland Bern’s medieval centre could be straight off a chocolate box. Yet Switzerland’s de facto capital also has political and artistic clout.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bern DATE OF BIRTH: 1191; founded as a military post; Bern became the Bundesstadt (‘federal city’) of the nascent Swiss confederation in 1848 ADDRESS: Switzerland (map 4, K12) HEIGHT: 540m SIZE: 51.6 sq km POPULATION: 140,288 ANATOMY Situated on the Swiss plateau, the compact Old Town was rebuilt in distinctive grey-green sandstone after a devastating 1405 fire, and is contained within a sharp U-shaped bend in the Aare River, limiting some streets to pedestrian and public transport access. Numerous bridges spanning the Aare have since been built to expand the city. The main train station is at the western edge of the Old Town and within easy reach of the main sights, and city bike rental is free.

Bern city covered with fresh snow / FEDOR SELIVANOV | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE The majority of Bern’s residents speak Swiss-German as a first language, while others speak Italian or French, but most residents also speak the local dialect, Bernese German, which incorporates several words from Matteänglisch, once used in the former workers’ quarter of Matte. Small populations of Germans and Italians live in the city. BEST TIME The months of July and August bring the warmest temperatures and liveliest festivals, but spring (April to June) and early autumn (especially September) are also idyllic, especially for hiking in the surrounding mountains. Skiing, snowshoeing and sledding are popular come winter (December to March). A PERFECT DAY Climbing the tower of Bern’s Gothic Münster (cathedral) for dizzying views, joining a tour of the Bundeshaus, home of the Swiss Federal Assembly, viewing fine arts at the Kunstmuseum and works by local artist Paul Klee at the Renzo Piano-designed Zentrum Paul Klee, and watching the twirling

figurines before the chiming of the Zytglogge, an elaborate medieval clock tower with moving puppets. STRENGTHS • Unesco World Heritage-listed medieval city centre • Summer rafting tours on the River Aare • Ornate fountains every 150m or so • Marking time at the Zytglogge • The impressively ornate Florentine-style Bundeshaus • The Kunstmuseum’s collection, including Picasso, Hodler, Fra Angelico, Dalí and more • Zentrum Paul Klee • Hotel Belle Epoque’s opulent Art Nouveau rooms • Reitschule’s alternative scene • Nougat-speckled Toblerone chocolate • Covered shopping promenades WEAKNESSES • The thought of being eaten by the ogre in Ogre Fountain • Lofty prices GOLD STAR For Bern’s flag-bedecked medieval centre, an attraction in its own right, with 6km of covered arcades, cellar shops and bars descending from the streets. STARRING ROLE IN… • On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969) • An Indian Idyll (2000) • Night Train to Lisbon (2013) • Ferdinand Hodler’s artwork IMPORT • Tourists • University students • Textiles

EXPORT • Toblerone chocolate • Einstein’s theories • Swiss army knives • Pockmarked Emmental cheese • Fondue sets • Muesli • Painters Ferdinand Hodler and Paul Klee • Poet Albert Bitzius • Scientist Albrecht von Haller • Songwriter Mani Matter • Pharmaceuticals • Precision instruments, including watches and clocks • The University of Bern’s research and developments for outer-space exploration SEE the Bärengraben’s 6000 sq metre open-air riverside park dotted with trees and terraces, where bears now roam following the closure of the city’s controversial bear pit in 2009. EAT cheese in a fondue, coupled with rösti (fried potatoes) and followed by Swiss chocolate. DRINK Bärner Müntschi (Bern’s kiss) beer, Rivella soft drink or Appenzeller Alpenbitter (Alpine bitters), a liquor made from the essences of 67 different flowers and roots; and make sure you look into someone’s eyes when you chink glasses. DO swim at the open-air, riverside Marzili pools. WATCH the passing of time on the Zytglogge. BUY a Swiss army knife. AFTER DARK head past graffiti-adorned buildings to the Reitschule and its vibrant alternative arts scene.

URBAN TALE Legend has it that Albert Einstein came up with his theory of relativity, E=MC2, while gazing into space instead of tending to his tedious job at the Swiss patent office in Bern in 1907. Today his theory lives on as one of the 20th-century’s most important scientific pronouncements and Einstein’s reputation as a groundbreaking physicist and genius endures.

The elaborate zodiacal Zytglogge / FEDOR SELIVANOV | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Bogotá // Colombia Bogotá is a city of futuristic architecture, a vibrant and diverse cultural and intellectual life, fine colonial churches and great museums.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bogotá DATE OF BIRTH: Pre-Columbian; inhabited by one of the most advanced pre-Columbian Indian groups, the Muisca ADDRESS: Colombia (map 3, K10) HEIGHT: 2645m SIZE: 25 sq km POPULATION: 7.6 million ANATOMY Bogotá is bordered to the east by a mountain range topped by the two peaks of Monserrate and Guadalupe. Bogotá’s northern sector consists mainly of upmarket residential districts, while the city’s southern part is a spread of undistinguished lower-income suburbs, culminating in the vast shanty towns on the southernmost outskirts. The urban bus service TransMilenio is efficient and fast.

Bogotá stretches out to the Eastern Hills / JESSE KRAFT | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Just over 70% of the population is composed of around 58% mestizos (of mixed Spanish and indigenous heritage) and 14% mulattos (with one black and one white parent). There are also about 3% zambos (of African-Indian blood). Indians represent just over 1% of the population. Spanish is the official language. BEST TIME Bogotá is at its warmest in May, but the slightly cooler months of June and July will leave you reaching for your umbrella a lot less frequently. The city really comes alive in August, when free, open-air festivals such as Salsa al Parque and Festival de Verano get Bogotanos’ hips shaking, only to be outdone over the Christmas holidays, when Bogotá is awash in a festival of lights – weather be damned.

A performer in the opening parade of the Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro de Bogotá / GUILLERMO LEGARIA | STRINGER | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Strolling around La Candelaria, Bogotá’s charming historic quarter, and stopping off for a santafereño (hot chocolate served with cheese and local bread) at Pastelería Florida, then exploring the Museo del Oro (Gold Museum), before conducting a night crawl around the pubs, clubs and salsatecas of Zona Rosa or Parque 93. STRENGTHS • Friendliness of the locals • Museums everywhere, led by Museo del Oro and Museo Botero • Bohemian hipster enclaves of Chapinero Alto and Macarena • Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro de Bogotá – one of the best theatre festivals in Latin America • Colonial churches such as the Iglesia Museo de Santa Clara • Cerro de Monserrate • The food-centric village of Usaquén • Amazing variety of fruits, some endemic to the country • Futuristic architecture • Andrés Carne de Res • Intellectual life WEAKNESSES • Crime • Vast shantytowns • Traffic • Graffiti (as opposed to street art) • Cold and rainy weather

Cerro de Monserrate, topped by the white church of El Señor Caído / JORGE RUEDA | 500PX

GOLD STAR For the view of the city from the top of Cerro de Monserrate – on a clear day you can even spot Los Nevados, the volcanic range in the Cordillera Central, 135km away, noted for the symmetrical cone of the Nevado del Tolima. STARRING ROLE IN… • The People at Universal (1991) • Maria Full of Grace (2004) • El Rey (The King, 2004) • One Hundred Years of Solitude by Gabriel García Márquez • Narcos (TV series 2015-present) IMPORT • Telenovelas (soap operas) • African rhythms of the Caribbean • Roman Catholicism • Cuban salsa

EXPORT • Author Gabriel García Márquez (lived here for a while) • Singer Shakira • Emeralds • Magic realism (literary genre) • Writer Álvaro Mutis • Actress Sofia Vergara SEE more than 55,000 gold pieces from all the major pre-Hispanic cultures in Colombia at the most important gold museum in the world, Museo del Oro. EAT the Bogotano speciality ajiaco (soup made with chicken and potato) at Restaurante La Pola. DRINK the excellent Colombian espresso at boutique coffeehouses like Amor Perfecto or Azahar Café. DO visit the salt cathedral at Zipaquira, one of only three cathedrals in the world to be carved from salt. WATCH a play, opera or ballet at the recently renovated Teatro Colón in La Candelaria, the city’s loveliest, and most historic, theatre. BUY emeralds at one of the many joyerías (jewellery shops) in the city centre. AFTER DARK head to Andrés Carne de Res in Chia, one of the wildest nights out that you will ever have.

URBAN TALE The Palacio de Justicia (Palace of Justice) has had a tragic history. The first court building, erected in 1921, was burnt down by a mob during El Bogotazo in 1948. A modern building was then constructed on Plaza de Bolívar, but in 1985 it was taken by M-19 guerrillas and gutted by fire in

a fierce 28-hour offensive by the army in an attempt to reclaim it. The ruin stood untouched for four years until authorities decided to construct a new building.

A gold mask from the ancient Calima culture on exhibit at the Museo del Oro / GEORGE HOLTON | GETTY IMAGES

Bordeaux // France This grand French city is buzzing with a new sense of possibility. Fuelled by fine wines and invigorated by an urban makeover, Bordeaux is in the process of reinvention.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bordeaux NICKNAME: La Perle d’Aquitaine (The Pearl of Aquitaine), La Belle Endormie (Sleeping Beauty) DATE OF BIRTH: 300 BC; founded as Burdigala by a Celtic tribe; fell under Roman rule about 60 BC ADDRESS: France (map 4, G13) HEIGHT: 14m SIZE: 49 sq km POPULATION: 243,626 ANATOMY Around 500km southwest of Paris, Bordeaux is built on a bend of the River Garonne, which is wide and deep enough to allow merchant freight ships and even ocean liners, which often visit. The left (west) bank is the more developed, with the historical old town, port and warehouse areas. The main train station, Gare Saint Jean, is just to the south of the old town, and a tramway links the town centre with the suburbs.

The grand Pont de Pierre bridge stretches over the Garonne / JUSTIN FOULKES | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE The population is mainly French, although up to 20% of Bordelaise claim some degree of Spanish heritage (Bordeaux is just over 200km from the Spanish border). The city is home to immigrants from Spain and Portugal as well as more recent arrivals from North Africa and the Middle East. BEST TIME Bordeaux is lovely year-round, with mild winters and hot summers. The city can feel empty in August, as many locals go on vacation. Wine tourists take note: vineyards are generally too busy to accept visitors during harvest in September or October, and the biennial Bordeaux Wine Festival happens in June.

Inside the Cité du Vin wine museum / JERÓNIMO ALBA | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Downing oysters fresh from the nearby Atlantic for breakfast, then getting lost amid the winding medieval lanes and grandiose squares of Unesco-listed Old Bordeaux. Emerging to the vibrant expanse of waterfront that follows the Garonne north, taking in the spectacular view of the Old Bourse reflected in the beloved mirror pool while strolling among the skateboarders, riverside dancers and joggers. In the evening, dining divinely at one of the city’s hot new neo-bistrots. STRENGTHS • Old Bordeaux • Outstanding wine • Marché des Capuchins • Esplanade des Quinconces and the Monument aux Girondins fountain • Waterfront strolling, cycling or picnicking • CAPC Museum of Contemporary Art • Jardin Public • Neo-bistrot dining • Place de la Bourse • Fresh seafood • Miroir d’Eau (the mirror pool), especially in summertime • VCub bike rental for €1.50 per day • École du Vin • Musée des Beaux-Arts WEAKNESSES • Over-commercialised Rue Sainte-Catherine • Empty streets in August

Enjoying the cafe lifestyle at La Mere Michel Creperie / HOLGER LEUE | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For wine. While there’s more to Bordeaux than its role as the HQ of the world’s leading wine region, the vineyards that surround the city make it more than just another beautiful French town. The new Cité du Vin wine museum only confirms Bordeaux’s status as the world’s top destination for lovers of the grape. STARRING ROLE IN… • He Loves Me… He Loves Me Not (2002) • The Flower of Evil (2003) • L’Oiseau (2011) IMPORT • Spanish expats • New-world winemakers • Paris chefs • Visiting cruise liners

• Craft beer EXPORT • The world’s most prestigious wines • Escargot (snails) drowned in butter and garlic • Canelés, sticky little rum-and- vanilla pastries SEE the Cité du Vin, the ‘Guggenheim of wine’, a state-of-the-art museum that takes you on a journey through the world’s wine cultures. EAT at La Tupina, a French country farmhouse in the heart of the city, serving rustic southwestern specialities such as pot-au-feu, foie gras and roast pigeon. DRINK the local drop at the bar of the École du Vin, where you’ll find 30 wines by the glass and staff who know their stuff. DO a tasting bicycle tour around the superstar wine regions nearby. WATCH an opera or ballet at the magnificent Grand Théâtre. BUY a bottle of one of the region’s premier appellations: Paulliac, Saint Émilion, Margaux or Sauternes. AFTER DARK plunge into the heart of pedestrianised Old Bordeaux in order to find the buzzy St Pierre district, where little bars and restaurants spill out on to the street.

URBAN TALE Bordeaux’s nickname of La Belle Endormie (Sleeping Beauty) comes from the era when its grand limestone buildings were hidden under layers of black soot, and the Garonne was lined with derelict warehouses and rusting cranes. A major urban renewal program from the 1990s resulted in today’s Bordeaux with its gleaming old town, gentrified docklands, spectacular waterfront and 18 sq km worth of Unesco listing.

Steam rising from the mirror pool at Place de la Bourse / D A BARNES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Bratislava // Slovakia Slovakia’s capital combines great nightlife, dining and river views into a pint-sized package. And its old town is as nostalgic as any in Europe.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bratislava DATE OF BIRTH: AD 907; first recorded mention; named Bratislava in 1919; crowned capital of the independent Slovak Republic in 1993 ADDRESS: Slovakia (map 4, P11) HEIGHT: 140m SIZE: 368 sq km POPULATION: 450,000 ANATOMY The Staré Město (old town), which sits on the north bank of the Danube, holds the city’s historical heart. A strip of cafés, restaurants and nightclubs fills this pedestrianised area. On a clear day from the castle hill, you can see Hungary and Austria, while the new town spreads northeast to the bland, high-rise suburbs beyond. South, across the Danube via the striking Most SNP (UFO Bridge), is the model socialist suburb of Petržalka, home to some 104,000 Bratislavans. Squeezed between the castle and the old town is what is left of the old Jewish quarter, pulled down to accommodate the bridge (and memorialised with black marble on the northern riverbank). Rattling between faceless suburbs and the charming old town is an extensive network of trams, buses and trolleybuses.

The colourful facades of Hlavné nám (Main Sq) / ARCO IMAGES GMBH | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Formerly joined to the Czech Republic, Bratislava shares much of its history and people with that country. The persecution of Jewish Slovaks during WWII is silently expressed in every rebuilt stone – Most SNP (UFO Bridge) was built over the bulldozed remains of the city’s old Jewish quarter. The city remains monoculturally Slovak – the largest minorities are Hungarians and Czechs, at 4 and 2% respectively – though trickles of international tourism and tastes for foreign cuisine, music, movies and language are moving Bratislava slowly towards a more diverse future. BEST TIME Summer sees the sunniest weather, as well as cultural festivals that bring song and dance to Bratislava, but September and October’s mild temperatures and jazz festival come a close second.

St Martin’s Cathedral, on the edge of Staré Město / ROSSHELEN | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Strolling around Bratislava Castle before descending into the old town to sigh at colourful Hlavné nám (Main Sq) and lunching on bryndzové halušky (dumplings with cheese and bacon) at a terrace cafe. In the afternoon, taking a bus to Devín Castle and back, then sipping craft beers and local wine up and down the town. STRENGTHS • The old town • Sci-fi skyline and Brutalist buildings • Devín Castle’s ruins • Day trips to Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum • Easy access to Hungary and Austria • Buzzing nightclubs • River cruises to Vienna • Pedestrian-friendly streets • Slovak National Gallery • The dreamy Blue Church • Autumn Jazz Days festival WEAKNESSES • Comparatively pricey accommodation • Troublesome parking • Sky-high suburban sprawl • Tourist-unfriendly taxis GOLD STAR For evocative museums – Apponyi Palace, the Museum of Clocks, the Museum of Jewish Culture, and Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum just out of town. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Year of the Frog by Martin M Šimečka

IMPORT • Richard Strauss • International dishes • Craft beer culture • Vegetarianism • Love of cinema • Rural Slovaks • Communism • Modernist architecture • Bike hire • Stag groups EXPORT • Folk handicrafts • Football players • Director Matej Mináč • Little Carpathian wines SEE the Watcher, Napoleon’s Soldier and the Photographer – Bratislava’s quirky and very photogenic bronze statues. EAT exceptional Asian and Slovak cuisine at lofty Lemon Tree & Sky Bar. DRINK crisp Czech beers, fruity Slovak wines and cocktails galore in the old town. DO hire a bike from Most SNP and pedal around war memorials and the Forest Park. WATCH an extravaganza of live music and traditional dance at the city’s Cultural Summer and Castle Festival. BUY Slovak folk handicrafts and souvenirs at Úľuv. AFTER DARK take in an opera that rivals anything in Europe at the lush Slovak National Theatre.

URBAN TALE Bratislava’s Jewish cemetery has attracted Jewish pilgrims from all over Europe. Buried under rubble during Nazi occupation, the tomb of Chatam Sofer lies here. Born Moshe Schreiber in Frankfurt, Chatam Sofer (1762–1839) moved to Bratislava in 1806 to become a rabbi. He founded a yeshiva (a school for rabbis) and trained more than 150 rabbis. The school became one of the best known in Europe, and operated up until the first years of WWII, when it had to move to Israel. Recently reopened to the public, the cemetery is now Slovakia’s most important Jewish site.

The pretty interior of the Art Nouveau Church of St Elizabeth, known as the Blue Church / PETER PTSCHELINZEW | GETTY IMAGES

Brussels // Belgium Purveyor of gourmet treats and showcase for cobbled streets, Art Nouveau architecture and eccentricity, Brussels is much more than a Eurocrat conference room.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Brussels DATE OF BIRTH: AD 695; with a settlement called Bruocsella, although Neolithic settlers were in the area from around 2250 BC ADDRESS: Belgium (map 4, J9) HEIGHT: 100m SIZE: 161 sq km POPULATION: 1.2 million ANATOMY The Ring, a large throbbing motorway, encircles the city while a polygon of busy boulevards called the Petit (Small) Ring hugs the old city centre. Central Brussels is made up of the Lower Town and the Upper Town. The former is Brussels’ medieval heart, crisscrossed with pretty cobbled streets anchored in the spectacular Grand Place. The Upper Town is the old aristocratic quarter, complete with wide boulevards and imposing buildings. The glassy EU area, towered over by the European Parliament and other high-rises, is east of the centre. Below it all, the metro system contains a chapel, bars and nearly 60 works of art, as well as trains.

A beer festival in full swing in the Grand Place / JOHN FREEMAN | GETTY PREM

PEOPLE Officially bilingual Brussels is located in Flemish-speaking Flanders, yet the majority of the population speak French. The city is home to Europeans, Moroccans, Turks and Africans; most of the latter come from the former Belgian colony of the Congo and inhabit the lively Matongé district. Around 10% of residents are practising Catholics; there are also Protestant, Jewish and Muslim inhabitants. Brussels people can come across as severe but have a cheeky sense of humour, evidenced by their treatment of the city’s symbol, the Mannekin Pis, a small statue of a urinating naked boy that they regularly dress in an array of camp outfits. BEST TIME The May jazz festival is a fun time to visit music-loving Brussels, with free concerts in outdoor venues across the city. Otherwise any time is a good time to be here; in the winter months you’ll find shelter from the cold in umpteen snug bars and cafés.

Elisabeth Chocolatier sells handmade sweets from all over Belgium / PETER VAN EVERT | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Gawping at the stunning Grand Place, munching a sugar-coated waffle, then exploring Ixelles’ Art Nouveau streets before doing a circuit of the Musée Horta and finally relaxing with a beer in an old Brussels pub. STRENGTHS • Free museums on the first Wednesday of the month • Swinging jazz clubs • Grand Place • Centre Belge de la Bande-Dessinée (Belgian Comic Book Centre) • Cathédrale des Sts Michel et Gudule • Handmade chocolates • Belgian beer • Arthouse cinemas in galleried arcades • Moules et frites (mussels and chips) • Geraniums in window boxes • Gothic Hôtel de Ville • EU importance – it’s the capital of Europe • Bargains at the Place du Jeu-de-Balles flea market • Parc de Bruxelles • Puppet productions at the Théâtre Royal de Toone • Art Nouveau Ixelles • Gleaming ornate cafés WEAKNESSES • Tourist cheesiness around the Grand Place • Rip-off restaurants along the should-be-amazing Rue des Bouchers • Bleak contemporary architecture

A mouthwatering array of waffles / ANDRISL | GETTY PREM

GOLD STAR For beer – Belgium produces more brews than any other country and you can sample most of them in the capital. STARRING ROLE IN… • Far West (1973) • Plenty (1985) • La vie sexuelle des Belges 1950–1978 (The Sexual Life of the Belgians, 1994) • Meisje (2002) • Black (2015) • The Good Beer Guide to Belgium & Holland by Tim Webb IMPORT • International beer obsessives • Students on EU work placements • MEPs (Members of the European Parliament) EXPORT • Chocolate pralines

• Beer – Leffe, Hoegarden etc • Tintin and Hergé • Audrey Hepburn • Liz Clairborne • Jan Brueghel • Jean-Claude van Damme • Jacques Brel • Claude Lévi-Strauss • René Magritte • Adolphe Sax and the saxophone • Tapestries SEE the captivating facades of the Hotel de Ville (town hall) and the guildhalls on the Grand Place. EAT moules et frites (mussels and fries) at local favourite, Aux Armes de Bruxelles. DRINK half-and-half (still and sparkling wine combined) at the glittering Le Cirio café. DO admire Belgian eccentricity, which is in evidence everywhere from the Musée Magritte to the Underpants Museum. WATCH the carpet of 800,000 begonias being laid in the Grand Place in August. BUY slabs of delectable artisan chocolate and forget that diet. AFTER DARK head to Music Village to hear Belgian blues singers and European talent.

URBAN TALE The city’s overzealous production of beer is credited to St Arnold, patron saint of brewers. In the Middle Ages he claimed that imbibing the brew

would prevent the consumer from catching the plague. Apparently since the plague was spread through drinking unboiled water, beer (which is boiled) was safer. His suggestion took off (why boil your drinking water when you have been advised to knock back a few?) and Belgium has been a brewery ever since.

Arcade du Cinquantenaire, a triumphal arch built in 1880 to celebrate 50 years of Belgian independence / EMI CRISTEA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Bucharest // Romania Emerging from a tumultuous, often tragic past, Bucharest is casting off its communist stereotypes with a rich music scene and great restaurants.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bucharest DATE OF BIRTH: 70 BC; Geto-Dacian tribes inhabited what is now modern Bucharest, but the city itself was first mentioned in 1459 ADDRESS: Romania (map 4, U13) HEIGHT: 92m SIZE: 228 sq km POPULATION: 2.3 million ANATOMY Despite two devastating earthquakes and allied bombings in WWII, much of Bucharest’s full and chequered history is preserved in the blend of Neoclassical architecture, Romanian Orthodox churches, Parisian-style parks and stony-faced buildings of the communist era, including the monstrous Palace of Parliament. The main attractions cluster in the heart of the city and are easily accessible via Bucharest’s transit system – one of the largest in Central and Eastern Europe – which includes buses, trolleybuses, trams and the slick underground metro.

The church of the 15th-century Curtea Veche (Old Princely Court), residence of rulers including Vlad the Impaler / S-F | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The capital’s population mirrors that of the nation, comprising some 90% Romanian citizens. The remaining 10% is made up of Hungarians, Roma, Germans and Ukrainians. The official language is Romanian and the vast majority of the citizens follow the Romanian Orthodox religion. BEST TIME Spring in Bucharest has the most energy. Festivals showcase jazz, blues and classical music across the city, and parks are blooming with flowers. Winter is also atmospheric, though the temperatures are low and the old town is far quieter. A PERFECT DAY Staring open mouthed at super-sized chandeliers and seemingly endless rooms in the staggering Palace of Parliament, before ambling through the old town, via grand Calea Victoriei, towards lunch at a cafe spilling on to the

cobblestoned streets. Then marvelling at Vlad the Impaler’s old stomping ground, Curtea Veche, before making like a vampire at the cocktail bars of the old town. STRENGTHS • Live music • Lush urban parklands • Palace of Parliament • Art-house cinemas • Romanian Athenaeum • Variety of pubs, clubs and cafés • Serenity and outdoor activity at Herăstrău Lake • Nourishing country cuisine and chic international diners • Local beer and wine • Museum of the Romanian Peasant • Stavropoleos Church • Patriarchal Cathedral • Triumphal Arch WEAKNESSES • Stray dogs • Daredevil drivers • Potholed roads • Taxi and currency scams • Poorly signposted train stations • Crowded transit system during peak hour GOLD STAR For the music scene – whether it’s checking out live rock, getting into the traditional sounds, dancing to your favourite ’70s tunes, toe-tapping at a jazz bar or a more refined experience with the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra, there is something for all tastes in Bucharest. Plugging into the local scene is easy – advertisements posted around the city promote clubs and hot DJs. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Children Underground (2001) • Blood & Chocolate (2007) • Closer to the Moon (2014) IMPORT • Art Deco architecture • Roman myths • International fashion design • Vlad the Impaler • Music from around the world • Greek olives • Jewish theatre and culture EXPORT • Actor-producer John Houseman • Țuica, knockout fruit brandy • The music of George Enescu • Contemporary fashion designers • French-language literature and absurdist theatre • Wine • Textiles SEE the crystal chandelier in the decadent Palace of Parliament; it weighs 2.5 tonnes. EAT classic Romanian food, from sarmale (cabbage rolls) to papanasi (curd cheese on donuts), served by costumed wait-staff at rustic Caru’ cu Bere. DRINK powerfully brewed coffee at local favourite Origo. DO venture out to Herăstrău Lake for boat rides and to see the National Village Museum. WATCH art-house movies in Cinemateca Eforie or the latest live music acts at underground Club A. BUY hand-painted ceramics and embroidered costumes at the delightful gift

shop at the Museum of the Romanian Peasant. AFTER DARK choose between ballet performances at the Opera House and edgy nightclubs such as Control.

URBAN TALE Numerous gaffes originate with accidentally referring to Bucharest as Budapest (the Hungarian capital). Celebrities including Michael Jackson and Iron Maiden have greeted their Bucharest audiences with ‘Hello Budapest!’ There have even been cases of sports fans and tourists flying to the wrong city. The error has always stung for Bucharest locals, given the perceived glamour of Budapest (compared with overlooked Bucharest). Chocolate brand Rom even kicked off a tongue-in-cheek ‘Bucharest not Budapest’ campaign in 2013.

Stately Calea Victoriei (Victory Ave), lined with belle époque mansions and upscale boutiques / LIORPT | GETTY IMAGES

Budapest // Hungary History, refinement and riverside beauty are most visitors’ initial impression of Budapest, but Hungary’s capital has plenty of sharp and idiosyncratic edges.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Budapest NICKNAME: Pearl of the Danube DATE OF BIRTH: 1873; when hilly Buda and historic Óbuda on the western bank of the Danube merged with flat, industrial Pest on the east. ADDRESS: Hungary (map 4, Q11) HEIGHT: 130m SIZE: 525 sq km POPULATION: 1.76 million ANATOMY Budapest is a large, sprawling city. Two ring roads – Nagykörút (the big one) and the semicircular Kiskörút (the little ring road) – link three of the bridges across the Danube and essentially define central Pest. Budapest is divided into 23 kerület (districts), usually bearing traditional names such as Lipótváros (Leopold Town) in district XIII or Víziváros (Watertown) in district I. The Roman numeral appearing before each street address signifies the district. Budapest has an ageing but safe, inexpensive and efficient publictransport system that won’t have you waiting more than five to 10 minutes.

Fisherman’s Bastion and the neo-Gothic Matthias Church / SARAH COGHILL | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Budapest is home to almost one-fifth of the national population. Most count themselves as Magyars, believed to be descended from tribal groups who thrived east of the Carpathian Mountains, and speaking the Finno-Ugric language Hungarian: utterly distinct from other European languages. Welleducated, reserved and somewhat formal, Budapesters are very polite, shake hands profusely on greeting, and love passionate debate – particularly over wine or pálinka (fruit brandy). Overindulging pet dogs is a city-wide hobby. Meanwhile Budapest’s religious landscape is a mixed bag, comprising nearly one-third each of Roman Catholic and non-religious locals, along with a sprinkling of Jewish, Lutheran and other faiths. BEST TIME August’s Sziget Festival is Budapest’s calendar highlight, with unbridled creativity and an international line-up of live music. But the best balance between balmy weather and uncrowded attractions is shoulder season: March to May, or September and October. The latter is especially lovely, thanks to a

swirl of autumn colours in City Park and edgy CAFe Budapest Festival.

Szimpla Farmers’ Market has all manner of local produce / SARAH COGHILL | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Taking in the grand views at Castle Hill, wandering the Old Town on foot or in a horse-drawn carriage, and bathing at the cathedral-like Gellért Baths. Afterwards, dining at 19th-century restaurant Kárpátia, a palatial restaurant whose warming, paprika-infused stews are served to a backdrop of folk music. STRENGTHS • Thermal baths • Magnificent bridges • Castle Hill’s views and museums • Literary and musical festivals • Hungarian State Opera • Coffee houses • The Basilica of St Stephen • St Stephen’s Crown • Ruin bars • Aquincum Museum • Buda Castle Labyrinth • Great Market Hall, overflowing with tempting food • Hungarian National Museum • Flea markets, troves of antiques and wartime relics • Memento Park • House of Terror Museum WEAKNESSES • ‘Accidentally’ inflated restaurant bills • Difficulty of hailing cabs • Lack of queuing etiquette • Restaurant reservations

Enjoying the water at Széchenyi Baths / WILL SANDERS | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For awe-inspiring river views – particularly from marbled Fisherman’s Bastion on Castle Hill. STARRING ROLE IN… • Evita (1996) • Sunshine (1999) • Werckmeister Harmonies (2000) • I Love Budapest (2001) • Spy Game (2001) • I Spy (2002) • Napoleon (2002) • Underworld (2003) • Budapest Noir by Vilmos Kondor IMPORT • Angevin kings

• Franz Liszt • Kebab shops • Viennese coffee and cakes • Vegan food • Fine art from across Hungary • Pizza EXPORT • Imre Kertész, writer • Rubik’s Cubes • Goulash • Biros • Photographer Brassaï • Béla Lugosi • Eva and Zsa Zsa Gabor • Béla Bartók • Composer and philosopher Zoltán Kodály SEE two Hungarian icons: the crown of St Stephen in the Parliament building and the saint-king’s mortal remains in the Basilica of St Stephen. EAT mangalica, the meat of woolly pigs, overlooking the river at refined bistro Magyar QTR. DRINK coffee and hot chocolate beneath the teardrop chandeliers of 19thcentury Gerbeaud, a true Budapest institution. DO have a soak at the city’s thermal baths, especially the Gellért, Rudas or Széchenyi. WATCH opera in the incredibly rich surrounds of the Neo-Renaissance Hungarian State Opera House. BUY hot salami, paprika, a bottle of boutique Hungarian wine, and some colourful folk embroidery. AFTER DARK venture into graffiti-scarred, retro-themed ‘ruin bars’ around

the Jewish quarter.

URBAN TALE One of Hungary’s best-loved writers, the novelist Gyula Krúdy (1878– 1933), moonlighted at Kéhli (arguably home to the best traditional Hungarian food in town) as a restaurant critic and enjoyed the bone marrow on toast (better than it sounds) so much he included it in one of his novels.

The gorgeous garden courtyard of ruin bar Mika Tivadar Mulató / SARAH COGHILL | LONELY PLANET

Buenos Aires // Argentina One of the world’s most sophisticated and cool cities, Buenos Aires, the pounding trade and cultural heart of Argentina, seduces instantly.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Buenos Aires NICKNAME: Paris of South America DATE OF BIRTH: 1536; founded as Santa Marĺa del Buen Aire (St Mary of the Good Air) by Spanish sailor Pedro de Mendoza ADDRESS: Argentina (map 1, O21) HEIGHT: 27m SIZE: 200 sq km POPULATION: 2.9 million ANATOMY Argentina’s wealthiest city sits beside the Atlantic on the edge of an agriculturally rich pampas on the River Plate. Buenos Aires is divided into 47 barrios (neighbourhoods), each with its own fascinating idiosyncrasies. Plaza de Mayo, its most famous square, anchors its centre, and the city sprawl fans out eastward. Acres of parkland, wide boulevards and graceful historic architecture give it a distinctly European edge. Buses ply the streets, and a rail network services the suburbs surrounding the city area. The Subte (underground) is South America’s oldest subway and still a quick, efficient and easy way to get around.

Congressional Plaza and the Palacio del Congreso, seat of the Argentine National Congress / TIM SNELL | 500PX

PEOPLE Greater Buenos Aires holds around 40% of Argentina’s population and residents refer to themselves as porteños (port people). The majority descend from Spanish and Italian immigrants but significant German, British, Jewish, Central and Eastern European, and Middle Eastern communities exist. Mestizos (people of mixed Native Indian and European heritage) are a growing minority, making up more than a quarter of the inner-city population. The Spanish spoken here is lyrical, rhythmically closer to Italian. Locals also use colourful slang expressions known as lunfardo. BEST TIME Spring (September to November) and autumn (March to May) are the best times to visit with pleasant temperatures – you can sit outside and crowds are thin. Second best is winter (June to August), which is cooler but still mild and sunny. In November, the city is a burst of purple when the jacaranda trees are

in bloom. August brings the Buenos Aires Tango Festival, the world’s most prominent tango festival.

Brightly coloured facades and balcony statues in El Caminito, La Boca / STUART DEE | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Biting into the best chimichurri-sauce-topped steak you’ve ever tasted, encountering locals dancing the tango on a public square, shopping and people-watching at San Telmo market, wandering through Plaza Serrano as the sun comes up, amazed at how good the porteños still manage to look after a hard night of partying. STRENGTHS • Neighbourhood diversity • Gay friendly • Underground jungle music scene • Sunshine year-round • Succulent beef steaks • Friendly locals • Beautiful parks and gardens WEAKNESSES • Air pollution • Petty theft and pickpockets, especially on the subway • Ubiquitous dog poo on sidewalks – watch your step • Heavy traffic • Being short-changed – count your money GOLD STAR For nightlife – the boliches (discos) are the throbbing heart of the city’s world-famous nightlife. Dress hot, dance cool, and arrive well after 2am. STARRING ROLE IN… • Evita (1996) • Motorcycle Diaries (2004) • The Headless Woman (2008) • Relatos Salvajes (Wild Tales; 2014) • The Flight by Horacio Verbitsky

• The Tango Singer by Tomás Eloy Martínez IMPORT • Aristotle Onassis • International food and culture crowd • Italian cuisine • European culture EXPORT • Tango • Eva Perón • Che Guevera • Jorge Luis Borges • Julio Cortázar • Beef • Champion polo players SEE Cementerio de la Recoleta’s impressive statues, marble mausoleums and eerie crypts, including Eva Perón’s grave. EAT flan casera (home-made flan) at Munich Recoleta, where legendary poet Jorge Luis Borges was once a regular. DRINK Argentine wines at Trova in the trendy Palermo Hollywood neighbourhood. DO hire a bicycle and check out the city’s parks, including the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. WATCH majestic mayhem unfold at a Boca Juniors versus River Plate fútbol (football) match. BUY stylish threads by local designers at Puntos en el Espacio. AFTER DARK funk it up to some wicked beats in the warehouse space at Rosebar.

URBAN TALE The tango’s origins were in the brothels of 19th-century Buenos Aires. Immigrants, drawn to the city’s ‘houses of ill repute’, invented the tango to vent their sorrow at being ‘strangers in a strange land’. The rhythm is attributed to the beats pumped out by African slaves on their drums, known as tan-go, fused with the milonga music of the pampas, and Latin sounds already familiar to the early Spanish colonists. The dance developed as an ‘acting out’ of the pimp-prostitute relationship, and early tangos represented sexual choreography.

Tango dancers do their thing at La Glorieta in the park bandstand at Barrancas de Belgrano / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Bukhara // Uzbekistan Central Asia’s holiest city is a marvel of Islamic architecture and the most impressive remnant of conqueror Tamerlane’s empire.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Bukhara DATE OF BIRTH: 6th Century BC, as a small settlement on the border of Scythian and Sogdian territories ADDRESS: Uzbekistan (map 5, T2) HEIGHT: 230m SIZE: 39 sq km POPULATION: 247,644 ANATOMY The shakhristan (old town) lies at the centre of sprawling modern Bukhara and its streets and squares probably haven’t changed much in two centuries. The very centre of the city is the Lyabi-Hauz, a square with a pool in the middle of it (lyabi-hauz means ‘around the pool’ in Tajik) where people congregate for tea and conversation, from which the covered bazaars that made the city an important Silk Road trading hub lead to the Bukhara’s most important religious and historic sites. Buses and taxis serve the city.

The Poi Kalon religious complex, including the 47m-tall minaret / DALE JOHNSON | 500PX

PEOPLE Bukhara is historically Tajik, but in modern times the majority Uzbek community lives alongside significant numbers of Tajiks and several other Central Asian ethnic communities. BEST TIME The traditional Nowruz holiday on 21st March reaches back to Zoroastrian new year festivities, and the old town comes alive with sports, music and feasting. In late May or early June, the Bukhara Silk and Spices Festival brings together artists and craftspeople to encourage the preservation of the city’s cultural heritage. Weather in winters and summers can be extreme, though, so consider the September–November and April–May shoulder seasons for the most comfortable climate.

Entrance to the Mir-i-Arab Medressa, part of Poi Kalon / ANDREW PEACOCK | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Drinking tea by the Lyabi-Hauz and having a quiet chat in the shade as you watch the city bustle go on about you, or haggling in the bazaars that once defined Bukharan life. STRENGTHS • Fascinating Islamic architecture • The sheer scale and awe-inspiring devotion of the mosques and medressas (Islamic academies) • Extremely open and welcoming attitude to tourists • Strong artistic traditions in music, dance and the visual arts WEAKNESSES • Pushy children selling souvenirs and begging • The extreme heat and dust in summer • The most central restaurants surrounding Lyabi-Hauz are block-booked by tour groups for months throughout the summer • A weak exchange rate and small currency denominations means you’ll need a bag full of som to make any major purchases

Bukhara street life / DE BRUYN JOUBERT | 500PX

GOLD STAR For the Kalon Minaret, which is such an impressive construction that even a marauding Genghis Khan was moved to spare it from destruction. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Keeper (2005; about 11th-century poet and mathematician Omar Khayyam) • The Great Game by Peter Hopkirk IMPORT • Tour groups • Ever-growing numbers of backpackers EXPORT • Carpets • Local hats • Fruit and veg

• The 11th-century writings of philosopher and physician Avicenna (Ibn Sina) SEE the Ark, the royal town-within-a-town, for an insight into how the allpowerful emirs of Bukhara lived. EAT delicious and cheap laghman (noodles) and samsas (samosas) at the alfresco teahouses around the old town. DRINK tea in the blissful quiet of a summer afternoon by the Lyabi-Hauz. DO climb down into the underground zindan (prison) of Stoddart and Conolly fame, which is no longer quite so atmospheric as when it was known as the ‘bug pit’ to locals. WATCH puppetry at the amateur theatre near the Lyabi-Hauz. BUY jewellery, silk, carpets and trinkets from one of the fabulous covered bazaars. AFTER DARK you’ll be limited to a belly-dancing show or some beers in one of the few bars of the shakhristan.

URBAN TALE During the days of the ‘Great Game’, when the British and Russian empires began to compete in Central Asia, British emissary Charles Stoddart arrived in Bukhara to placate the emir about Britain’s invasion of next-door Afghanistan. However, things didn’t quite go to plan: Stoddart offended the emir’s vanity (he rode up to the Ark – the emir’s palace – rather than dismounting, as protocol dictated) and ended up in the bug pit (the name just about says it all) for three years. When the British finally got follow-up emissary Arthur Conolly to Bukhara to secure Stoddart’s release, the emir imprisoned him as well. Despite numerous attempts at intercession by both Russian and British diplomats, both unfortunates were eventually executed in front of a huge crowd

outside the Ark.

The symmetry and elaborate tilework of Islamic architecture / DAMON LYNCH | 500PX

Cairns // Australia The capital of far north Queensland and the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef, Cairns is tropical Queensland’s tourism hotspot, boasting excellent accommodation and activities ranging from soaring over a rainforest canopy to diving the reef.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cairns DATE OF BIRTH: 1876; after gold was discovered in the vicinity ADDRESS: Australia (map 1, NN18) HEIGHT: 8m SIZE: 127 sq km POPULATION: 160,300 ANATOMY Cairns is a town based on tourism. As such, tour agents, cafes and resortwear boutiques dominate the tiny CBD. East of the centre, a large and leafy park surrounds the saltwater lagoon – perfect for a refreshing and safe dip. Further east, Marlin Marina is home to extravagantly luxurious watercraft, shops and restaurants. The adjacent Reef Fleet terminal is the main point of departure for trips to the Reef.

Yacht-filled Marlin Marina / TRAVELSCAPE IMAGES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Descendants of the Yirrganydji people, whose traditional lands stretched from Cairns north to Port Douglas, and the Djabugay, from the rainforests behind Cairns, have more recently been joined by other Indigenous Australians including Torres Strait Islanders to form a vibrant Indigenous community. The first Europeans to arrive were seekers of gold but Cairns pretty much remained a sleepy backwater until tourism took off after WWII. The boom in tourism has seen an influx of Europeans and Asians creating today’s multicultural city. BEST TIME The Dry season, roughly from June through to September is the best time to enjoy relatively cooler temperatures and crystal-clear waters. The Cairns Festival is held in August or September and features international acts and local buskers, a street parade, fireworks and plenty of food.

A tropical reef paradise for divers / JEFF HUNTER | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY As the day warms up, hopping aboard one of the fast catamarans to whisked out to the Great Barrier Reef. Once there, donning the diving or snorkelling gear and floating in the warm, crystalline water while gazing at a kaleidoscope of coral gardens and fluorescent fish stretching out before fading into the blue depths. A day of getting in and out of boats will have you exquisitely exhausted and more than ready for a chilled white wine and a tropical seafood platter back at Cairns. STRENGTHS • Foreshore saltwater lagoon • Access to the Great Barrier Reef • Flecker Botanic Gardens • Tanks Art Centre • Tjapukai Cultural Park • Cairns Wildlife Dome • Skyrail Rainforest Cableway • Kuranda Scenic Railway • Cairns Birdwing Butterfly WEAKNESSES • Marine stingers • Saltwater crocodiles • Occasional overcrowding • Cyclones GOLD STAR For world class snorkelling and diving – Cairns’ fleet of superfast boats will get you to the remote and pristine outer reef for unsurpassed visibility, extraordinary coral gardens and marvellous marine life, from tiny shrimps to massive manta rays. STARRING ROLE IN… • Turkey Shoot (1982)

• Dark Age (1987) • The Island of Dr Moreau (1996) • The Straights (2012) IMPORT • Asian food • Ocean sailors • Torres Strait culture EXPORT • Singer Christine Anu • Actor Brenton Thwaites • Coffee and tea • Glass-bottom boats • Game fishing SEE the arts- and culture-packed Cairns Festival, which takes place over three weeks from late August to September. EAT a fresh seafood platter at The Raw Prawn on Cairns’ picturesque foreshore. DRINK a cocktail on the water’s edge at the breezy Salt House. DO try a high-adrenaline activity like bungee jumping, white-water rafting, parasailing or zip lining through the rainforest canopy. WATCH a concert of local or international artists, or peruse the art, at the Tanks Art Centre. BUY Aboriginal artefacts, souvenirs, clothing and diverse cuisine from the stalls at the Night Markets and the Mud Markets. AFTER DARK head on out to Tjapukai Cultural Park for a fireside corroboree.

URBAN TALE As much as the tour operators like to play down the dangers of northern Australia’s wildlife, the tabloid media and our fascination with deadly beasts keep the dangers front and centre. While crocodile attacks are reported every year in far north Queensland, only a few have proved fatal in the past decade. So although there’s plenty of hype, the risks are nevertheless real, and newcomers ignore the crocodile and marine stinger warning signs erected around Cairns at their peril. The manmade foreshore lagoon is the only place for a 100% safe saltwater swim. Meanwhile, the preponderance of crocodile farms in Queensland means that you can eat a croc at a fine-dining restaurant or purchase a croc’s foot back-scratcher at one of the tacky souvenir shops.

A white-lipped tree frog peers from a heliconia flower / TRAVELSCAPE IMAGES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Cairo // Egypt Cairo dominates Egypt with one of the world’s highest population densities. It’s a roiling, splendidly chaotic city and one of the cultural capitals of the Arab World.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cairo NICKNAME: The Mother of the World DATE OF BIRTH: AD 150; the Roman Babylon Fort was the first settlement on the location of modern Cairo ADDRESS: Egypt (map 5, E8) HEIGHT: 116m SIZE: 214 sq km POPULATION: 17 million ANATOMY Cairo is relatively easy to navigate. Heading east from the centre, Downtown ends at Midan Ataba and the old but still kicking medieval heart of the city known as Islamic Cairo takes over. Bordering Downtown to the west is the Nile River, which is obstructed by two sizeable islands. The more central of these, connected directly to Downtown by three bridges, is Gezira, home to the Cairo Tower and the Opera House complex. The west bank of the Nile is less historical and much more residential. Giza stretches some 20km west on either side of the long, straight road that ends at the foot of the pyramids. The Metro system is startlingly efficient, but the masses still use minibuses.

Cairo from the Citadel and the Mosque of Mohammed Ali / MATT CHAMPLIN | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE More than a quarter of Egyptians live in Cairo, Africa’s largest city. The majority of its population is Egyptian, with a small number of Bedouins, Nubians from Sudan and an almost negligible number of Greeks, Armenians, Italians and French. While Islam is the official religion, around 10% of Cairenes are Coptic Christian. BEST TIME Cairo bakes in the northern hemisphere summer – although it’s a dry heat, midday (and even midnight) temperatures can be oppressive. Spring or autumn are the most comfortable times to be here, with winter surprisingly cold. Rain is a rarity.

Busy Khan el-Khalili souq / KUMAR SRISKANDAN | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY After an exhausting day doing the rounds of the museums, smoking a sheesha (a tobacco water pipe, often flavoured with honey or apple) surrounded by dusty gilt mirrors, tourists, travellers and locals alike at the renowned El Fishawi café in the Khan el-Khalili souq (market). STRENGTHS • Khan el-Khalili • Pyramids and Sphinx on the doorstep • The Egyptian Museum • King Tutankhamun’s relics • The Nile – take a sunset felucca cruise • A land of a million guides WEAKNESSES • Guides who won’t take no for an answer – they’ll take you anywhere, as long as you visit a papyrus ‘museum’, jewellery shop, camel rental, etc, where they get a commission • Summer heat • Cars that sink into the melting bitumen • Tourist police who know where everything is, for a little baksheesh

The Mosque of Al-Hakim in Old Cairo / SHERIF ALI | 500PX

GOLD STAR For the pyramids and the Sphinx. No matter how many pictures you’ve seen, nothing prepares you for this. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Ten Commandments (1956) • The Spy Who Loved Me (1977) • Death on the Nile (1978) • Gallipoli (1981) • The Purple Rose of Cairo (1985) • Malcolm X (1992) • The Cairo Trilogy: Palace Walk, Palace of Desire, Sugar Street by Naguib Mahfouz • The Map of Love by Ahdaf Soueif • Under the Same Sky – Rooftops in Cairo, 2002–2003 by photographer Randa Shaath

IMPORT • Classical music at the Cairo Opera House • Backpackers searching for what remains of the Istanbul-to-Cairo trail • Looters of archaeological artefacts down through the centuries, now governments from offending countries seeking to make amends • Fast-food restaurants EXPORT • Mummies • Backgammon • Hand-blown glass perfume bottles • Naguib Mahfouz – winner of the 1988 Nobel Prize for Literature, and still the only winner from the Arab World • Belly dancer Fifi Abdou • The sounds of singer Om-Kalthoum SEE the pyramids during the heat of the day – you’ll be guaranteed that there will be few tourists around and you can sit within the depths of Cheops listening only to the sound of your own beating heart. EAT a great spread of falafel, salads, fuul (seasoned chickpeas), bread, tahini and omelettes at Akher Sa’a. DRINK karkadeh (hibiscus tea) – found everywhere. DO see the glittering treasures of Tutankhamun and other great pharaohs at the Egyptian Museum. WATCH feluccas sail peacefully down the Nile against a flawless sunset sky. BUY pure jasmine oil in a hand-blown glass bottle from one of the many stalls in the Khan. AFTER DARK check out the light-and-sound show at the pyramids after a spectacular sunset.

URBAN TALE Old Cairo is home to the city’s remaining Jewish population. The area’s Ben Ezra Synagogue, Egypt’s oldest, is said to be where the prophet Jeremiah gathered the Jews after they fled from Nebuchadnezzar, the destroyer of their Jerusalem temple. There is also a spring that is supposed to mark the place where the pharaoh’s daughter found Moses in the reeds, and where Mary drew water to wash the baby Jesus during their flight into Egypt.

The pyramids seen from the Giza Plateau / KANUMAN | SHUTTERSTOCK

Cape Town // South Africa Even transient visitors devote a few million brain cells to storing images of Cape Town’s grandeur, from its striking Table Mountain backdrop to its glorious beaches, unique botanic life and technicolor arts and crafts.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cape Town NICKNAME: The Mother City DATE OF BIRTH: 1652; when the Dutch pulled up at the base of Table Mountain and established South Africa’s first European settlement ADDRESS: South Africa (map 1, Y21) HEIGHT: 17m SIZE: 300 sq km POPULATION: 3.74 million ANATOMY A major part of Cape Town’s allure is the 1073m-high mountain slap-bang in the centre of the ‘City Bowl’: Table Mountain and its attendant peaks – Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head – are Cape Town’s most enduring image. If you drive (or ride a bus) 70km south, you’ll find the fabled Cape of Good Hope. While Cape Town has a good rail and bus network, good value taxis are well worth considering day or night.

Cape Town spread out below Table Mountain / ALEXCPT | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE More than half of Cape Town’s population is – in the old apartheid term that is still in use – coloured (mixed race). Blacks make up a third of the population, and whites and other groups comprise the balance. In the Cape Town area, three of South Africa’s 11 official languages are prominent: Afrikaans (spoken by many whites and coloureds), English (spoken by nearly everyone) and Xhosa (spoken mainly by blacks). BEST TIME Cape Town’s best season is summer, which falls between December and February. The weather is warm and dry and there’s lots going on such as the Cape Minstrel Carnival and Design Indaba. Between June and August the weather can be wet, windy and cool, but seldom cold.

Camps Bay is one of the city’s most popular beaches / HELEN CATHCART | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Hiking Table Mountain to see the views over the city then making the exhilarating abseil down part of it (lazy bones could ride the cable car), before taking in a glorious sunset on a harbour cruise of Table Bay while sipping a glass or two of fine local sparkling wine. STRENGTHS • Historic Robben Island • The Bo-kaap (historical centre of Cape Malay culture) • Lively music and cultural scene • Company’s Gardens • Table Mountain • Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve • District Six Museum • Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens • South African National Gallery • The V&A Waterfront area • Zeitz MOCAA (major new African contemporary art gallery) • Top quality food and drink • Street art in Woodstock and Khayelitsha WEAKNESSES • Violent crime and poverty in townships of the Cape Flats • Suspicion and mistrust among different cultural groups • The freezing waters of the Atlantic Ocean • Howling winds (known as the Cape Doctor)

Colourful Bo-kaap, also known as the Malay Quarter / ESPIEGLE | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For hospitality – Cape Town’s mix of trendy hostelries match up favourably to those in any other cosmopolitan city, and, for all of the city’s contradictions, you’ll find Capetonians likeable, (generally) open-minded and relaxed. They are also very creative – there are many beautiful arts and crafts for sale and you can also find inventive retail outlets such as fashion and gift stores combined with cafes and laundries. STARRING ROLE IN… • Disgrace (1999) • U-Carmen eKhayelitsha (2005) • Black Butterflies (2011) • Safe House (2012) • Love the One You Love (2014) IMPORT • Dutch settlers

• British imperialist Cecil Rhodes • Computer software and services • Wine making • Pharmaceutical products • Tourism • President Nelson Mandela (born in the Eastern Cape) • Artist Vladimir Tretchikoff EXPORT • Archbishop Desmond Tutu • Wine • Arts and crafts • Textiles • Author JM Coetzee SEE Unesco World Heritage site Robben Island, used as a prison from the early days of the VOC (Dutch East India Company) right up until the first years of majority rule. EAT a delicious range of dishes from around the continent at the Africa Café, served up by singing and dancing waiters. DRINK craft beers made by the Devil’s Peak brewery in its Taproom bar and restaurant with a spectacular view of the mountain. DO forgo the cable car and hike up Table Mountain for an unforgettable view, taking the time to spot more than 1400 species of flowering plants. WATCH cute African penguins waddling around the beach at Boulders near Simon’s Town at the southern end of the Cape Peninsula. BUY an outstanding selection of local crafts, design and fashion at the Watershed section of the V&A Waterfront. AFTER DARK peer down on the nightlife hub Long St from the grooving attic and rooftop bar Waiting Room.

URBAN TALE For centuries, sailors (most famously King George V) have spotted the ghost of the schooner The Flying Dutchman sailing the waters of Cape Point. Before the ship went down en route to Holland in 1641, her foolhardy captain, Hendrik Van der Decken, vowed to the devil that he would sail to the ends of the earth. More than 360 years on, let’s hope that Van der Decken has some able seamen on board to take the wheel occasionally.

African masks for sale at Greenmarket Sq / FRANK SLACK | GETTY IMAGES

Cardiff // Wales Despite its two-thousand-year pedigree, the buzzing Welsh capital offers much more than vestiges of an illustrious past.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cardiff NICKNAME: City of Arcades DATE OF BIRTH: AD 75; the year the Romans, finally conquering the Celtic Silures, built a fort on the Taff to consolidate their power ADDRESS: Wales (map 4, F8) HEIGHT: 12m SIZE: 139 sq km POPULATION: 346,090 ANATOMY Central Cardiff’s main landmarks are Cardiff Castle and the Millennium Stadium, by the River Taff. High St, St Mary St, Queen St, Bridge St and Charles St are all shopper’s paradises, while the Civic Centre north of the castle houses government buildings. The harbour area to the south, once the world’s top coal port, is now a redeveloped commercial centre called Cardiff Bay. The bus and train stations are near the stadium.

The country’s premier arts complex, the Wales Millennium Centre / REALIMAGE | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Cardiff’s citizens are as proud of their Welsh identity as anyone in the country, despite the scant numbers now speaking the national language in the capital. As the leading city in Wales, it attracts significant immigration: over 20% of its inhabitants come from England, areas such as Butetown are increasingly multicultural, and young Welsh people flock here from the countryside. BEST TIME The Cardiff winter (roughly November to March) can be pretty gloomy and long, but there’s always rugby, pubs and festivals to cheer things up. If you don’t mind rubbing shoulders with crowds, then June to September, when the days are long and the waterfront comes alive, can be delightful. A PERFECT DAY Piecing together a picnic lunch from the Riverside Market, before wandering

over to Bute Park to sup and sunbathe near the ruins of Blackfriars Priory, then heading to Queen St for some retail therapy, finishing at Millennium Stadium for the rugby. STRENGTHS • Cardiff International Food & Drink Festival (July) • The performance of the Welsh team at Euro 2016, getting to the semi-finals, and thus further than ever before • Millennium Stadium • National Museum Cardiff • Cardiff Bay • Cardiff Castle • Castell Coch • Artes Mundi Award (Arts of the World – a biennial visual arts exhibition and prize) • St Fagan’s Museum of Welsh Life • National Assembly • Rugby – Cardiff Blues and the national team • Cycling the Lôn Las Cymru trail • Cardiff University • Llandaff Cathedral • Bute Park & Arboretum • Techniquest • Wales’ most multicultural population • Lower prices than London WEAKNESSES • Rain • Difficulty getting tickets to big international rugby at Millennium Stadium • Dwindling number of Welsh speakers GOLD STAR For castles – Wales is famous for them and Cardiff doesn’t let the side down. STARRING ROLE IN… • Tiger Bay (1959)

• Twin Town (1997) • Human Traffic (1999) • Doctor Who (TV series 2005–) • Dat’s Love by Leonora Brito IMPORT • Sir Anthony Hopkins • Rugby (from England originally) • Romans • English (the people and the language) EXPORT • Dame Shirley Bassey • Charlotte Church • Ryan Giggs • Gareth Bale • Griff Rhys-Jones • Cerys Matthews • Shakin’ Stevens • Ivor Novella • Brains Beer • Penderyn Single Malt Whisky • Roald Dahl • Coal (until World War II) • Mail-order businesses (the first one began in Newtown) • Super Furry Animals • S4C (Welsh-language television network) • Welsh National Opera • Captain Robert Scott (launched his expedition to the South Pole from Cardiff in 1910) SEE Cardiff Castle complete with Great Hall and minstrel’s gallery, as well as a Norman keep. EAT the catch of the day, simply grilled at Fish at 85.

DRINK one of 18 different draught brews at the Cambrian Tap on St Mary St. DO visit the National Museum Cardiff for impressionist art, volcanic eruptions and the world’s largest turtle. WATCH international football and rugby matches at the Millennium Stadium or do a tour and check out the players’ tunnel. BUY textiles, ceramics, jewellery and other handicrafts at Craft in the Bay, the collective shop of the Welsh Makers’ Guild. AFTER DARK check out the latest local bands at Clwb Ifor Bach.

URBAN TALE Cardiff and Wales are awash with myths. King Arthur is said to have held his first court at Caerleon; the capstone of the Cefyn Bryn burial chamber on the Gower Peninsula is known as Arthur’s stone; and legend has it that the Holy Grail hides at Llangollen’s Castell Dinas Brân. Arthur’s sidekick, Merlin, was apparently born in Carmarthen. In Cardiff, they say if you dance around Tinkinswood on a Sunday you will be turned to stone – and that the stones surrounding the burial chamber are, in fact, women who did just that.

The Norman motte-and-bailey at the heart of sprawling Cardiff Castle / BILLY STOCK | SHUTTERSTOCK

Cartagena // Colombia The undisputed queen of Colombia’s Caribbean coast is a fairy-tale city of romance, legends and preserved beauty: Cartagena’s old town is a maze of cobbled alleys, balconies covered in bougainvillea, and massive churches.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cartagena (de Indias) NICKNAME: La Ciudad Heroica (The Heroic City), according to Simón Bolívar DATE OF BIRTH: 1533; when it was the second Spanish city to be founded on the Colombian coast ADDRESS: Colombia (map 3, K7) HEIGHT: 2m SIZE: 572 sq km POPULATION: 1 million ANATOMY The heart of Cartagena is the old town, facing the sea to the west and almost entirely separated by water from the mainland to the east. The old town’s walled sections are separated by a channel, the Caño de San Anastasio. This was later filled up to make way for the construction of the wedge-shaped modern district, La Matuna. South of the old town is the L-shaped peninsula occupied by the trendy seaside resorts. Walk around town, or catch the large Metrocar buses.

Elegant Plaza San Pedro Claver / GARY C. TOGNONI | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The majority of Cartageneros are mestizos with Spanish background, with the rest of the population – more than a third – made up of Afro-Colombians. BEST TIME It’s hot and humid all year round, with notable wet months being April, May, September and October. Colombians pack the city out in December, early January and at Easter so a good shoulder season is February to March, when temperatures are marginally cooler and there’s almost no rain. February also sees the culmination of the major local fiesta, Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria.

A local girl and her grandmother share a joke / DBIMAGES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Having a breakfast coffee with bread, a relaxing morning stroll through the old town soaking up the sensual atmosphere, a big lunch then stopping for a tintico (short black coffee), dining on a good seafood meal at a cantina (bar) in el Centro, then heading off to Boca Grande for rum and rumba until dawn. STRENGTHS • Chivos (colourful local buses) • Beautiful remnants of Spanish colonial history – La Ciudad Amurallada • Perfect Caribbean climate all year • Music: rumba, vallenato, paseo… • Good seafood • Dancing, partying and rum • Festivals • Scuba-diving • Glamour and Colombian fashion • Isolation from Colombia’s troubled areas WEAKNESSES • Street moneychangers • Cruise-ship overload • Fraudulent boat captains • Bullfights • Machismo

Fernando Botero sculpture in the Plaza de Santo Domingo / ALEX SEGRE | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

GOLD STAR For having the most stubborn military saviour – Blas de Lezo, who had lost a leg, an eye and an arm in various battles, but with only 2500 troops defended Cartagena against 25,000 British troops in 1741. STARRING ROLE IN… • Burn (1954) • The Mission (1986) • Top Line (1988) • Love in the Time of Cholera (2007) • Cartagena (2010) • Love in the Time of Cholera by Gabriel García Márquez • Of Love and Other Demons by Gabriel García Márquez • Chronicle of a Death Foretold by Gabriel García Márquez IMPORT

• Rich Colombian tourists • International films • Colombian beauty queens • Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria (the city’s patron saint) EXPORT • Gabriel García Márquez (well, he worked as a journalist here) • Most of what comes out of Colombia (it’s the country’s major port) • Composer Jaime R Echavarría • Pitcher Julio Teherán • Gold • Emeralds SEE the wealth of colonial buildings in a leisurely stroll around the walled town. EAT fresh local seafood in one of the city’s many open-air cafes or glossy restaurants. DRINK good Colombian coffee in any café, and juices squeezed from tropical fruits. DO take yourself out on the water, on a boat trip, scuba-diving or kitesurfing. WATCH the Reinado Nacional de Belleza (Colombia’s national beauty pageant) on 11 November. BUY Colombian handicrafts from hammocks to emerald jewellery at Las Bóvedas. AFTER DARK dance champeta, rumba or salsa in a bar in Getsemaní.

URBAN TALE In 1955, sailor Luis Alejandro Velasco was shipwrecked for 10 days on a raft without food or water. On his miraculous return to Cartagena, the

city feted him as a hero. Gabriel García Márquez, at that time a cub journalist, conducted 20 interviews with Luis, and wrote Story of a Shipwrecked Sailor. Unfortunately, Luis was not always to be so adored – it came out that his navy ship had been carrying contraband, which made it sink, the newspaper that published the interviews was closed, and the protests contributed to the downfall of the Rojas Pinilla government.

Modern Cartagena from La Popa Hill / JESS KRAFT | 500PX

Cayenne // French Guiana Pretty colonial buildings, vibrant markets, fantastic cuisine and a multicultural population make Cayenne one of South America’s most charming capitals.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cayenne DATE OF BIRTH: 1643; when it was founded by the French, who set up a fort on the highest hill ADDRESS: French Guiana (map 3, T10) HEIGHT: 6m SIZE: 24 sq km POPULATION: 55,200 ANATOMY Place des Palmistes in the northwest of Cayenne is the beating heart of the city, filled with cafés, outdoor food stalls and beckoning palm trees. Place Léopold Héder (aka Place Grenoble), to the west of Place des Palmistes, is one of the oldest parts of Cayenne. The city itself sits at the western end of a small hilly peninsula between the Mahury and Cayenne Rivers. There are limited buses, and taxis may be more reliable.

La Pointe Buzaré with Cayenne stretching beyond / RONAN LIETAR | 500PX

PEOPLE Cayenne is a melting pot of French, African-Guianese, Brazilian, Haitian, American Indian, Vietnamese and Chinese people. The Kali’nas and Wayampi are the largest Amerindian tribes in French Guiana, while around 38% of the population are Creole descendants of African slaves and 2% are Maroons (descendants of African slaves who escaped into the jungle in the 17th to 19th centuries) that include the Boni and Saramaca groups. There are also two Hmong groups who originally hailed from Laos. Most of French Guiana is Catholic. Guianese people are warm, friendly and proud of their ethnic mix. Not surprisingly, considering the city’s French parentage, they also love their food. BEST TIME Cayenne throws rollicking Carnaval celebrations with parades incorporating Afro-Caribbean, Rio-esque and even Asian influences in the elaborate costumes. Drinking, live music and dancing happen all around. You’ll need to book accommodation several months in advance for this time, which is

usually February or early March. Otherwise, July to September is the driest season, although it is still very hot and humid. The rainiest month tends to be May.

Friends posing near the fish market / ROGER RESSMEYER/CORBIS/VCG | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Pottering around varied stalls at the market, before soaking up sun on Plage Montjoly then returning to town for some irresistible crepes from the nighttime food stalls on Place des Palmistes. STRENGTHS • Plage Montjoly – Cayenne’s best beach and home to spawning leatherback turtles in summer • Musée Départemental • Musée des Cultures Guyanaises • Carnaval (February and March) • The lively market • French colonial architecture

• Ecotourism • Kaw river trips • Virgin rainforest in French Guiana’s interior • Wildlife, such as tapirs, jaguars, poison-arrow frogs and caimans • Good roads • Îles du Salut penal settlement ruins • Centre Spatial Guyanais (Guianese Space Centre) – launch site for the European Space Agency’s Ariane rockets WEAKNESSES • Hunters of leatherback turtles • Lack of tourism infrastructure • Shady characters after dark in the Village Chinois (Chinatown) GOLD STAR For the fabulous French-Latin- Caribbean vibe of the city. STARRING ROLE IN… • Papillon (1973) • 1ère Compagnie (First Company, TV series 2005–present) IMPORT • 70,000 French prisoners from 1852, eg, Captain Alfred Dreyfus, Henri Charrière • Scientists and technicians working at the Centre Spatial Guyanais • Food • Consumer goods • Energy EXPORT • Cayenne pepper • Rainforest timber • Fish and seafood, eg, prawns • Gold • Singer Henri Salvador

SEE what’s left of 17th-century Fort Cépérou and check out the views of the town and river. EAT exotic ice cream made from local fruits at Couleurs et Saveurs de Jo le Glacier. DRINK Ti’punch, the city’s favourite tipple made with island rum, fresh lime juice and cane syrup. DO make a trip to Montsinéry (45km west of Cayenne) and spot caimans, jaguars, tapirs and toucans at the Réserve Animalière Macourienne. WATCH the city go crazy for live music and parades at Carnaval. BUY tropical fruits and piping-hot Vietnamese soup at Cayenne’s main market. AFTER DARK savour cocktails at Le Cosmopolitan, mingle with the young and beautiful and listen to funky Caribbean tunes.

URBAN TALE According to Dr Mark Plotkin the name ‘Guianas’ does not mean ‘Land of Many Waters’ as is commonly believed. Instead it came from a series of errors. First of all, the Spanish misspelt the name of the Surinamese Indian tribe Wayana, writing it as ‘Juayana’ or ‘Guayana’. And the English then misread their misspelling (still with us?) and turned it into Guyana, or Guiana.

Monument in Place des Palmistes / OLIVIER GOUJON/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

Charleston // USA One of the few US cities that truly feels old, Charleston is home to a plethora of historic sites and also a flourishing gastronomic scene.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Charleston NICKNAME: Holy City, Chuck Town DATE OF BIRTH: 1670; originally named Charles Town ADDRESS: USA (map 2, P9) HEIGHT: 3m SIZE: 330 sq km POPULATION: 120,000 (city); 623,700 (metro area) ANATOMY Charleston hugs South Carolina’s coastline, straddling three peninsulas. The most central of these holds the majority of the city and its well-preserved historic quarter, where the streets are chequered with stylish shops, manicured green spaces, historic buildings and creative restaurants serving up tasty Lowcountry cuisine with a modern twist. Moving outward from here, you’ll come across the suburbs of James Island and Mount Pleasant, in addition to the beach hotspots of Sullivan’s Island, Isle of Palms and Folly Beach.

Sunset over Charleston / SEANPAVONEPHOTO | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE European, southern US and West African influences have shaped the Holy City’s culture. Originally, Charleston was one of the fledgling nation’s biggest ports, and its economic wealth and reputation for religious tolerance drew people from along the eastern seaboard as well as the Caribbean. The Gullah, descendants of enslaved Africans, contributed to Charleston’s cultural and linguistic heritage. A portion of the city’s population speaks the group’s English-based creole language. Today, many locals work in the tourism, technology, engineering, healthcare, and service industries. BEST TIME The best time to visit Charleston is early summer – the sun will be warm enough to enjoy a day trip to the beach or a stroll down to the Battery, but you’ll avoid the oppressive July and August heat. Due to its warmer climate, the city also makes for a great low-season destination; winters are mild and crowds are thin.

A PERFECT DAY Starting with a tasty brunch of fried green tomatoes and crab cake eggs benedict on a breezy veranda before taking to the city to explore its enchanting streets and alleys, particularly Broad St and Rainbow Row. Brushing up on your US war history at notable military sites, then popping into one of the city’s many oyster bars for an appetizer and to start happy hour early with a stout Bloody Mary. Finally dining out on regional staples like she-crab soup and shrimp and grits that will leave you swooning. STRENGTHS • Historic Queen Anne and Italianate style mansions • Creative southern cuisine • Easy access to nearby beaches • Gaslight lanterns • Excellent farmers market • Beautiful promenades along Charleston Harbor • US’ first official museum (established 1773), the Charleston Museum • Revolutionary War sites, the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon • Fort Sumter, where the first shots of the Civil War were fired • USS Yorktown, an aircraft carrier from WWII WEAKNESSES • Expensive accommodation in high season • Very hot in summertime • Prone to flooding during hurricane season • Dinner can be busy – make a reservation GOLD STAR For its food culture – Charleston has long been a US foodie destination; the restaurants here embrace local culinary traditions to evoke a true sense of place for the palate. STARRING ROLE IN… • Glory (1989) • The Notebook (2004) • The Invention of Wings by Sue Monk Kidd

• South of Broad by Pat Conroy IMPORT • Cruise ships • History buffs • College of Charleston students EXPORT • Lowcountry cooking • Aircraft • Author Dorothea Benton Frank • Comedian Stephen Colbert SEE the dozens of colourful historic homes lining the eastern and southern edges of the Charleston peninsula; some date back to the years before the Revolutionary War. EAT all the seafood you can get your hands on at one of the many top-notch eateries in Charleston’s historic quarter. DRINK a refreshing mojito and take in a sunset view at one of Charleston’s rooftop bars. DO take a sailing tour into Charleston Harbor to see the city from the water, all while dolphins swim alongside your boat. WATCH a live performance at the atmospheric (and supposedly very haunted) Dock Street Theater; originally constructed in 1736, it is considered to be the oldest theatre in the United States. BUY an intricate sweetgrass basket handmade by local Gullah artisans, either at the Charleston Market or at stands along Highway 17. AFTER DARK head towards upper King St to visit a number of hip watering holes that range from student-centric clubs to swanky cocktail lounges.

URBAN TALE The image of the pineapple is prominent around Charleston. While it is widely regarded as a symbol of hospitality, it also served a more practical purpose when the city functioned as a major shipping port. Captains would return home with the fruit (which was not native to the region) and place it atop their garden gates to signal their safe return and to invite neighbours to stop by.

Pineapple Fountain in Charleston Waterfront Park / MYSTICEYESTUDIOS | GETTY IMAGES

Chiang Mai // Thailand The capital of northern Thailand is at once cosmopolitan and provincial, historic and progressive. Temples and monasteries dot every corner of the Lanna royal capital and forested peaks form a natural adventure playground just beyond the city limits.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Nopburi Si Nakhon Ping Chiang Mai (shortened to Chiang Mai) NICKNAME: Rose of the North DATE OF BIRTH: 1296; when Thai King Mengrai took over a Mon settlement ADDRESS: Thailand (map 6, J8) HEIGHT: 314m SIZE: 4506 sq km POPULATION: 146,346 ANATOMY More than 80% of Chiang Mai Province is covered by jungle-cloaked mountains, but the city itself sprawls over a flat flood-plain beside the Ping River. The heart of Chiang Mai is the old city, bound by a square moat and crumbling medieval walls. Beyond this tidy grid of hotels, restaurants and ancient Lanna temples, modern Chiang Mai sprawls east towards the river, and west towards the forested slopes of the mountain Doi Suthep. Get around by flagging down one of the many red rót daang (converted pick-up trucks that operate as shared taxis) or by túk-túk (motorised rickshaws).

Paper lanterns light the night sky during the lunar holiday, Yi Peng / SUTTIPONG SUTIRATANACHAI | GETTY IMAGES | MOMENT RF

PEOPLE Chiang Mai has expanded far beyond its medieval walls, absorbing many smaller villages and towns. Eighty percent of residents are locals by birth, and most speak the Lanna dialect, a legacy of the days when Chiang Mai was the capital of an independent northern kingdom. You’ll see evidence of Lanna identity all over the city, from statues of Lanna heroes to the crossed wooden kalae gables that adorn every other rooftop. The population has been swelled by an influx of tribal peoples from the surrounding highlands and Yunnanese traders, who have coming here since the time of the Silk Road. BEST TIME Time your visit to either avoid, or specifically coincide with the hot season. Skies are clearest and temperatures most bearable from December to March, but the hot and humid spring season is also time for Songkran (13-15 April), Thailand’s biggest festival, when everyone and everything gets a goodnatured drenching from water-pistols, buckets and hoses.

Workers toil the mountain tea fields / KORAWEE RATCHAPAKDEE | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Rising early to beat the crowds to Wat Phra Singh or Wat Chedi Luan, and pausing to listen to the hypnotic chanting of monks and devotees. Browsing Talat Warorot, the central market, for quirky souvenirs, then after a delicious lunch relaxing with a Thai massage. STRENGTHS • Historic wát (temples) • Calm, small-city vibe • Street-filling souvenir markets • Thailand’s best cooking courses • Soothing massages from former prisoners • Fantastic street food after dark • Easy access to jungle treks and hill-tribe villages • Ethical elephant interactions in the surrounding valleys WEAKNESSES • A fair number of seedy bars and seedy men • Rather staged hill-tribe treks • Some dubious animal attractions nearby (cobra kissing anyone?) • Crowds, swelled even further by city-breakers from China • Congestion and traffic fumes from all the rót daang

A transaction at the morning market / DAVID SALA | 500PX

GOLD STAR For the reportedly more than 300 temples in Chiang Mai, not counting the forest wát dotted through the surrounding jungles. Don’t overlook small and serene temples like Wat U Mong Thera Jan and Wat Phra That Doi Kham in the rush to tick off famous monasteries in the centre. STARRING ROLE IN… • Lost in Thailand (2011) • No Escape (2015) • Smoking Poppy by Graham Joyce • Fast Eddie’s Lucky 7 A Gogo by David Young IMPORT • Starbucks • Legions of Chinese backpackers • Western-style rock music • Exotic Burmese handicrafts

• Chocolate-spread pancakes EXPORT • Thai silk • Carved wooden elephants • Teak (till logging was banned in 1989) • Tribal jewellery • Orchids • Fabulous tropical fruit • Hill-tribe coffee • Thai cooking know-how SEE the towering teak columns supporting the roof of Wat Phan Tao, each the trunk of a mighty jungle tree. EAT delicious bowls of coconutty kôw soy – the noodle soup brought to Chiang Mai by Yunnanese traders plying the Silk Road. DRINK long iced coffee made with beans grown by villagers from the Akha tribe, at the appropriately named Akha Ama Cafe. DO rent a scooter and visit waterfalls, fruit plantations and tribal villages on the looping road through the Mae Sa Valley. WATCH effortlessly talented rock bands competing for glory at the Riverside and Good View bars, overlooking the Ping River. BUY hammered silver and white metal Buddhist ornaments from the silversmiths around Wat Srisuphan. AFTER DARK wander through the night markets at the Pratu Chiang Mai and Pratu Chang Pheuak city gates, sipping fruit smoothies and feasting on every creation in the Thai cookbook.

URBAN TALE

According to legend, the site of the famous Wat Phra That Doi Suthep monastery was chosen by a white elephant after a monk placed half of a Buddha relic on the pachyderm’s back and set it loose, promising that a temple would be built wherever the elephant ceased wandering. The sacred beast expired on the slopes of Doi Suthep, selecting the location of Chiang Mai’s most revered monastery. Buddhist pilgrims still crowd the steep naga (serpent) staircase that rises to the golden stupa, built by King Kuna in 1383.

Rescued elephants enjoying breakfast at the Elephant Nature Park, Chiang Mai / ADAM PICKARD | 500PX

Chicago // USA The Windy City is a vast and vibrant metropolis – a place where running shoes and a good train map are a must if you even hope to make a dent in the city’s copious and unique attractions.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Chicago NICKNAME: The Windy City; Second City DATE OF BIRTH: 1779; when Jean Baptiste Pointe du Sable established a trading post on the north bank of the Chicago River ADDRESS: USA (map 2, M5) HEIGHT: 251m SIZE: 588 sq km (city), 28,160 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 2.7 million (city), 9.5 million (metro) ANATOMY The Windy City sprawls along the western side of Lake Michigan, with towering buildings constructed on swampy land forming an artificial landmark. The Loop is the city’s historic heart, sitting on a small peninsula where the Chicago River meets the lake. The city and suburbs fan out across the prairie in all directions. Public transport includes the famous L (aka elevated) trains and buses.

Cloud-piercing skyscrapers in downtown Chicago / MATT FRANKEL | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Chicagoans are known for being pragmatic and open-minded, which is why marketers have come here for decades to test new products, from Broadway shows to fast-food burgers. The city’s highly multicultural population breaks down to 33% black, 32% white, 29% Latino, 5.5% Asian and 0.5% Native American. Around 21% of residents are foreign born. Neighbourhoods with large ethnic concentrations include Pilsen and Little Village (Mexican), Uptown (Vietnamese), Avondale (Polish), Humboldt Park (Puerto Rican) and West Ridge (Indian and Pakistani). Wander the main streets in these communities, with their whirl of languages and exotic goods, and you feel far from the Midwest. BEST TIME Peak season is June through to August, when it’s warm, beer gardens come to life, and festivals rock. It’s freezing between November and March, but bargains abound for hotels and entertainment. May, September and October are good shoulder-season months for decent weather and prices.

A swing dancer strikes a pose out the front of one of the city’s many dance halls / KRIS DAVIDSON | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Starting a high-speed day with breakfast at Lou Mitchell’s – a Route 66 diner at downtown’s edge – followed by a jaunt to the Art Institute, then to Giordano’s for a deep-dish pizza lunch, onward to the boat docks for a Chicago Architecture Foundation river cruise, maybe a little windowshopping along Michigan Ave en route to dinner at a trendy West Loop bistro, then ending the eve with drinks way, way up on the 96th floor of the John Hancock Center’s Signature Lounge. STRENGTHS • The lake and its 26 beaches • Unpretentious food scene • Cloud-poking architecture • Chicago Blues Festival • Art Institute • Multiple sports teams with die-hard fans • Navy Pier Ferris Wheel • Frank Lloyd Wright’s Prairie School–style houses • Playful public art WEAKNESSES • The cold in winter • High hotel room costs • Insanely windy • Convention crowds • Gun violence in certain neighbourhoods • High sales tax • Traffic jams

Sunlit Honeycomb Bridge in Lincoln Park / CHEN LIU/EYEEM | GETTY PREM

GOLD STAR For the Art Institute of Chicago, as impressive a museum as can be found anywhere. Turn any corner and you find yet another breathtaking piece of art, from medieval armour to Mondrian abstracts. So this is where it ended up! The institute has a wondrous collection of Impressionist paintings as well as 20th-century Modernist and Realist works. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Blues Brothers (1980) • Ferris Bueller’s Day Off (1986) • The Untouchables (1987) • The Adventures of Augie March by Saul Bellow • Nowhere Man by Aleksandar Hemon • The Man with the Golden Arm by Nelson Algren IMPORT • Muddy Waters • Louis Armstrong • Frank Lloyd Wright • Al Capone • Buddy Guy • Saul Bellow EXPORT • Skyscraper design • Ernest Hemingway • Electric blues • The Obamas • House music • Hillary Rodham Clinton • Walt Disney • Hugh Hefner • Kanye West • Bill Murray SEE the shiny, 100-tonne Bean sculpture (officially titled Cloud Gate) in Millennium Park. EAT in the West Loop, the city’s old meatpacking district, where hot-chef restaurants pop up one after the other on Randolph St and Fulton Market. DRINK alongside trendy tipplers and grizzled regulars under bawdy paintings at the Old Town Ale House.

DO check out a show at Second City, the original improv comedy club, where John Belushi, Bill Murray, Tina Fey, Stephen Colbert and many more honed their wit. WATCH the Chicago Cubs play baseball at retro, ivy-walled Wrigley Field. BUY vintage clothes, designer shoes, records, books, anything on Milwaukee Ave (in Wicker Park), a funky stretch of hip stores. AFTER DARK work up a sweat in a cool little blues or rock club, where there’s just a few beers’ distance between you and the guitar shredder on stage.

URBAN TALE It’s certainly true that Chicago is windy, but meteorology is not the reason for the moniker ‘Windy City’. The most popular of various legends as to the origin of the name claims it is to do with the city’s politicians and journalists, who are ‘full of wind’. Apparently, the name was popularised by a writer in the New York Sun, who claimed that despite its boasts, ‘that windy city’ would not beat New York in the competition to hold the World’s Fair of 1893. Not only did Chicago win, but the fair was a huge success.

Part of the epic natural history collection, the Field Museum / BUSARA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Christchurch // New Zealand A vibrant city in transition, Christchurch is coping creatively with the aftermath of the earthquakes that all but hollowed out its historic centre, with art projects and pocket gardens dotted among the remnant old stone buildings and the sharp, shiny architecture of the new.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Christchurch NICKNAME: The Garden City DATE OF BIRTH: 16th century; when the Māori arrived; in 1850 Europeans settled here ADDRESS: New Zealand (map 1, RR23) HEIGHT: 10m SIZE: 452 sq km POPULATION: 476,900 ANATOMY A flat grid of streets stretches in every direction from Cathedral Sq, the centre of the city. Much of the centre is pedestrianised, but little of it is busy, urban sprawl has seen shopping malls move away to the suburbs. The city is bordered to the south by the Port Hills, to the east by the Pacific, and to the north and west by rolling green farmland. Compact and walkable, the city centre is also served by a re-created tram service; buses are the main form of public transport further afield.

Brightly decorated shops in shipping containers add colour to a new commercial precinct / PETER UNGER | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Mainly of Anglo-Celtic stock (83%), Christchurchians are increasingly from elsewhere too. The Dutch were the first to come in any numbers in the 1950s, followed by large Pacific Island (2%) and Southeast Asian (5%) communities. Māori people make up 7% of the city’s population. BEST TIME Christchurch has a mild and relatively dry seaside climate for much of the year, and boasts more sunshine than the national average, but it is cold enough to get overnight frost in winter. The southern hemisphere summer is the best time to visit; time your trip for the World Buskers Festival in January or one of the many outdoor events by Garden City Summer Times.

Post earthquake innovation at the cardboard catherdral, central Christchurch / CHANACHAI PANICHPATTANAKIJ | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY After a cup of world-class coffee, wandering through Cathedral Sq then on to the rebuilt Christchurch Art Gallery to admire works by mainly Kiwi artists. Next, catching a restored tram to the Botanical Gardens before lazily punting along the Avon River in the late afternoon. Finally, taking your pick of cuisines from Christchurch’s eclectic food scene. STRENGTHS • Picturesque English colonial heritage deconstructed by natural disasters • Pedestrianised inner city • Sumner Beach • Botanical Gardens, Hagley Park • The tram • Avon River, twisting and turning through the city • The drive through the tunnel to Lyttelton • Spanish mission-style architecture of New Regent

• Learning about penguins at the Antarctic Centre WEAKNESSES • On a major tectonic fault line • Smog in winter • Retail moving to shopping malls springing up in the suburbs leaving the city centre empty • The questionable architectural choices of the 1980s GOLD STAR For the resilience, hardiness and community-minded spirit of the locals in the face of two devastating earthquakes in 2010 and 2011, and further rattles since. STARRING ROLE IN… • Heavenly Creatures (1993) • The Art of Recovery (2015) • The Stolen (2017) • Closed, Stranger by Kate de Goldi • Oracles and Miracles by Stevan Eldred-Grigg • A History of Silence by Lloyd Jones IMPORT • Large-scale street murals • Pop-up shops in shipping containers • Coffee culture that is bested by the Kiwis • Class system from colonial England • Sheep and sheep farming EXPORT • Lamb to the world • Wool and creative Kiwi knitted fashion • Len Lye, experimental film maker and sculptor SEE the wizard, casting spells and pontificating during summer lunchtimes in Cathedral Sq.

EAT modern-NZ cuisine one of Christchurch’s best restaurants. DRINK boutique brews at DeLux or Smash Palace. DO punt along the Avon River into the lovely Botanical Gardens. WATCH the sun set behind the Southern Alps, from atop the Port Hills. BUY a uniquely Kiwi gift from one of the boutique shops at The Tannery. AFTER DARK try the strip of bars and restaurants on Oxford and Cambridge Terraces.

URBAN TALE For many children in Christchurch, the upheaval and recovery from the 2010 and 2011 earthquakes has consumed a significant part of their lives. With this in mind, composer Patrick Shepherd wrote a symphony, first performed in 2015 at the prestigious and long-running Christchurch Schools’ Music Festival, to express the resilience of the people and the way he felt communities have reached out to each other and formed new bonds. It is entitled Ex Tenebris Lux, which translates as ‘out of the darkness, light’.

Blue skies and calm waters: the Avon River / PAUL CHAMBERS | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Christiansted // US Virgin Islands Christiansted is beautiful, historical, easy to travel around and, best of all, totally Caribbean in look and feel.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Christiansted DATE OF BIRTH: 1733; Christiansted served briefly as the capital of the Danish West Indies ADDRESS: US Virgin Islands (map 3, O4) HEIGHT: 5m SIZE: 1572 sq km POPULATION: 2400 ANATOMY Pressed between hills and a shallow, reef-protected harbour, Christiansted, on the island of St Croix, is a traveller’s delight. For decades, its greatest appeal lay in its historic district, but in recent years, Christiansted has evolved into a vibrant entertainment zone. With its historical significance, cleanliness, walkability and array of dining and nightlife options, Christiansted embodies almost everything travellers hope for in a West Indies town – you can kick back at a waterfront brewpub or in a courtyard restaurant and make friends with the locals. Walk around town, or hire a car to tour the island.

Centuries-old Fort Christiansvaem stands guard over the city / CAMILLA ZENZ/ZUMA PRESS, INC. | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE The majority of Christiansted residents are of African descent (75%), with 13% made up of expats from the US mainland – often young entrepreneurs who run hotels, inns and sports operations. Don’t forget to add a smattering of immigrants from Puerto Rico, the Leeward Islands and the Dominican Republic, and even the odd Danish or French land holder. English is the official language. Cruzans, as the residents of Christiansted and the rest of St Croix call themselves, consider their home island the ‘stepchild’ of the US Virgin Islands. The origins of this way of thinking are rooted in St Croix’ isolated location, and Christiansted residents show an independence and selfmotivation that comes from this separation. BEST TIME Mid-December to April is the dry and sunny high season, when prices and crowds hit their peak. AgriFest in mid-February, the Half-Ironman Triathlon in May and the Christmas Carnival in late December/early January also bring

crowds. August to November are the rainiest months (and most prone to hurricanes). A PERFECT DAY Driving out to Point Udall – the easternmost spot in the USA – for sunrise, then setting off on a half-day snorkelling trip to the fish-frenzied reef at Buck Island, followed by a spicy seafood dinner in a chic colonial townhouse, and then live music under the stars at one of the boardwalk venues. STRENGTHS • Historic yellow buildings and their stories • Vibrant music scene • The St Patrick’s Day Parade • Dive shops galore • Fresh made rum • Duty-free shopping • Steel-drum bands • Danish street signs WEAKNESSES • Hurricanes • Perpetually high ‘tourist’ prices for everything • Empty in the off season GOLD STAR For tourism achievement – the successful blending of centuries of colonial history with natural beauty to make a genuinely relaxed and attractive tourist destination. STARRING ROLE IN… • Hamilton: An American Musical (2015) • Treasure Island by Robert Lewis Stevenson • Land of Love and Drowning by Tiphanie Yanique • Don’t Stop the Carnival by Herman Wouk IMPORT

• Wining, dining and sailing à la the mega rich • French quadrille dances • Windmills • Roulette and other casino fun EXPORT • Rum • ‘Mix’ music – a rollicking blend of calypso, reggae and hip-hop • Stored oil • Watches • Senepol cattle • Mangoes SEE ‘Jump Up’ – a carnival-like evening (held four times a year) filled with steel bands, dancing, local arts and crafts, island food, and fun in the streets and on the waterfront. EAT conch in butter sauce and sweet potato–based Cruzan stuffing at West Indian stalwart Harvey’s. DRINK local Cruzan Estate Diamond Rum. DO a late-night turtle-watch during the nesting and hatching seasons, sponsored by the St Croix Environmental Association. WATCH the waves lapping the deserted beaches of nearby Buck Island. BUY a gold or silver bracelet with a ‘Cruzan hook’ from the jewellery stores on Company or Strand Sts. AFTER DARK see some mean jazz, rock or reggae at one of the many bars on Kings Wharf.

URBAN TALE Once upon a time, Christiansted was merely a tiny French village called

Bassin. After the French sold the island to the Danish in 1733, the town had its dose of fame as capital of the Danish West Indies from 1755 to 1871. The town was designed to have the layout of Christiana (now Oslo), Norway, and to be the size of Copenhagen. Thanks to the Danes and their sugar industry, the town’s population swelled to around 5300 by the late 1700s. It dwindled steadily after slavery was abolished in 1848. Today the population is about half of what it was at its peak.

Young musicians from Christiansted’s Rising Stars Youth Steel Orchestra / MARTIN THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Copenhagen // Denmark While this 850-year-old harbour town retains much of its historic good looks, the focus in Scandinavia’s coolest capital is on innovation, forward-thinking design, and urban and social developments that bestow the city a charttopping liveability factor.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Copenhagen DATE OF BIRTH: 1167; when Bishop Absalon constructed a fortress on Slotsholmen ADDRESS: Denmark (map 4, N5) HEIGHT: 1m SIZE: 88.3 sq km POPULATION: 591,500 ANATOMY Copenhagen sits on the east coast of Denmark’s largest island, Zealand (in Danish, Sjælland). It is separated from Sweden by the Øresund Strait and is largely low-rise, with few skyscrapers. Most of the city’s major attractions are found near the main square of Rådhuspladsen and the islands of Slotsholmen and Christianshavn. The city is eminently walkable and superbly bike-friendly. Public transport can involve buses, boats or the futuristic metro system.

Businesses cast a colourful reflection along one of Copenhagen’s canals / FRANK FISCHBACH | 500PX

PEOPLE The vast majority of Copenhageners seem to come from the same stock, ie the Teutonic ancestry so common to Scandinavia. However, there is also a substantial population of foreign nationals (18%) in the capital. Not only are the locals generally good-looking and chilled, they’re famously civic minded, egalitarian, and masters of mood lighting. The pursuit of hygge (cosiness and contentment) rules all, and Denmark is repeatedly a top-scorer on the list of world’s happiest countries. BEST TIME The best time to drop by is from May to August, when the days are long and the mood upbeat. There’s a full calendar of summer events celebrating everything from electronic music to local food – big parties surround the July jazz fest and August’s Pride. Late November and December counter the winter chill with Christmas markets, twinkling lights and gløgg (mulled wine).

A tree-lined avenue in the Assistens Kirkegard cemetery / SARAH COGHILL | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Thinking about your next feed, while taking advantage of even a hint of a sunny day by sitting outside at a café where the owners have thoughtfully provided blankets for their patrons, riding a bicycle across beautiful bridges such as Knippelsbro to funky Islands Brygge and taking a dip at the canalside public baths. STRENGTHS • Imaginative smørrebrod (open sandwich) toppings at Schønnemann • Christianshavn • Royal Palaces • Statens Museum for Kunst • Tivoli • Local beers • Islands Brygge Havnebadet (harbour bathing) • Modern architecture • An easy-going monarchy • Bakeries • Cycling culture • Christiania • Town planning that puts people before cars WEAKNESSES • 25% VAT • Changeable weather • Trying to land a reservation at dining hotspots • Potential for weight gain from pastry intake

Cobbled city streets make for a bumpy ride / EUGENE ANBALL | 500PX

GOLD STAR For design – Copenhagen is always bang on the money when it comes to marrying form with function. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Idiots (1998) • The Danish Girl (2015) • Miss Smilla’s Feeling for Snow by Peter Høeg • The Department Q crime series by Jussi Adler-Olsen • Borgen (TV series, 2010-13) IMPORT • Swedes looking for relaxed liquor laws • Royal princesses • German cars

• Jazz • Pizza EXPORT • Pork • Carlsberg and Tuborg • Dogme films • Arne Jacobsen chairs • Georg Jensen jewellery and silverware • Dairy goods • Brilliant TV series like The Killing and The Bridge • Cycling culture SEE the citywide panorama from atop glorious Vor Frelsers Kirke in Christianshavn. EAT sumptuously at one of the city’s 16 Michelin-starred restaurants. DRINK acclaimed craft-beer creations and guest drops from global microbreweries at Mikkeller bar. DO a long, lazy stroll down Strøget – one of the world’s longest pedestrian streets. WATCH swarms of technicolor fish at Copenhagen’s cutting-edge aquarium, Den Blå Planet (the Blue Planet). BUY coffee, pastries and top-notch picnic fare at Torvehallerne KBH, the city’s best food market. AFTER DARK watch the summertime concerts and the weekend fireworks displays at Tivoli.

URBAN TALE In 1834, Hans Christian Andersen applied for work at the Royal Library

in Copenhagen in order ‘to be freed from the heavy burden of having to write in order to live’. Apparently the library administrators weren’t too impressed with his résumé, as he was turned down. Ironically, Andersen’s unsuccessful application is now preserved as part of the library’s valued archives, along with many of his original manuscripts.

Sample Danish delicacies at Torvehallerme market / RAFFAELE NICOLUSSI | GETTY IMAGES

Cork // Ireland Ireland’s second city is first in every important respect, according to the locals, who refer to it as the ‘People’s Republic of Cork’.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cork NICKNAME: Rebel City DATE OF BIRTH: 7th century AD; established as a monastic settlement by St Finbar ADDRESS: Ireland (map 4, C8) HEIGHT: 15m SIZE: 37 sq km POPULATION: 125,622 ANATOMY The compact city centre is set on an island in the River Lee, which splits into the North and South channels. Within its confines are grand Georgian avenues and 17th-century alleys, as well as notable buildings such as the opera house. St Patrick’s St runs through the main shopping and commercial district to the Georgian Grand Parade. The city’s most entertaining quarters are north and south of St Patrick’s St, a grid of narrow streets crammed with pubs, shops, cafes and restaurants. Perched on a hillside north of the town centre is Shandon, which has galleries, antique shops and restaurants in between tiny old row houses that are now prized real estate. The cathedral and the beautiful university are south of the centre.

Picturesque terraced houses look out over a walled field in Cork / ANT KIM | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE To hear Corkonians tell it, they live in Ireland’s most liveable city, home to the best restaurants anywhere on the island and with a quality of urban life unmatched anywhere else, including (especially) Dublin, which is dismissed as too big, too crass and too impersonal. The population is overwhelmingly white Irish, but just under 9% hails from other EU countries and there are small pockets from Asia and Africa. BEST TIME The summer months – June to August – see the best weather, but autumn is often ideal, with September usually bringing warm, sunny weather and the world-famous Jazz festival taking over the city at the end of October.

Organic and local produce for sale at the 18th-century, covered English Market / NEIL SETCHFIELD | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Stretching the legs around the Lough, just south of the city centre, and the university, followed by brunch in the Liberty Grill, a diner for foodies. Strolling through the English Market, picking up fresh fruit from The Farmer and locally made cheese from On the Pig’s Back, and wandering the lanes around Patrick’s St, poking in and out of shops. Antiquing in Shandon, and then dinner at Café Paradiso – who knew veggie cuisine could be so good? A couple of pints at Sin É and then a show at the Triskel. STRENGTHS • The English Market • Local food producers • Jazz Fest • Glucksman Gallery • Grounds of University College • Shandon • Fota Wildlife Park • Foodie-themed tours • Crawford Gallery WEAKNESSES • Jazz Fest crowds • Foodie pretentiousness • Seemingly interminable roadworks • The rain • Limited city-centre accommodation GOLD STAR For its excellent nightlife: from traditional pubs to music venues, theatres and opera house, Cork has something for everyone, virtually every night of the week. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Moby Dick (1956) • Disco Pigs (2001) • The Young Offenders (2016) • The Glorious Heresies by Lisa McInerney • ’Tis, A Memoir by Frank McCourt • The Last September by Elizabeth Bowen IMPORT • Jeremy Irons • Rory Gallagher • First transatlantic cable • Robert Boyle • George Boole • Angela Lansbury • Michael Flatley EXPORT • Roy Keane • Graham Norton • Darina Allen • Fiona Shaw • Frank O’Connor • Cillian Murphy • Beamish and Murphy stouts • Clonakilty black pudding SEE the fascinating exhibits on the history of churning butter at the Cork Butter Museum. EAT a wholesome plate of Irish stew at the Farmgate Café while looking at the goings on below in the English Market. DRINK a pint of Friar Weisse – with its strains of citrus, clove and banana goodness – at the Franciscan Well microbrewery. DO a fabulous food-tasting tour of the city’s best gourmet hotspots with Fab

Food Trails. WATCH a live music gig at the Everyman Playhouse, one of the most intimate venues in Ireland. BUY exquisite homemade chocolates from O’Conaill’s on French Church St; the hot chocolate is divine. AFTER DARK go cocktail crazy to the sound of the DJs on Friday or Saturday night in the Suas Rooftop Bar.

URBAN TALE One of the world’s great brands of Turkish Delight, Hadji Bey, was born in Cork in 1902. It was then that an Armenian, Harutun Batmazian, first displayed his exotic confectionary at the Great Cork International Exhibition. His shop was burnt down by soldiers returning from WWI who mistook him and his wife for Turks, but undaunted he opened a new shop on McCurtain St and soon Hadji Bey Turkish Delight, presented in a distinctive yellow and pink box, became one of the city’s biggest exports and was to be found in Harrod’s of London, Macy’s in New York and even the dessert plates of Buckingham Palace.

Cork’s jail museum was once the real deal / ANDREI NEKRASSOV | SHUTTERSTOCK

Cuzco // Peru With thriving Andean culture and the powerful beauty of Incan architecture, the archeological capital of the Americas still promises riches to explorers.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Cuzco NICKNAME: Navel of the Earth DATE OF BIRTH: 12th century; when established by the first Inca king ADDRESS: Peru (map 1, N18) HEIGHT: 3226m SIZE: 385 sq km POPULATION: 435,000 ANATOMY With steep hills speckled with colonial and Incan architecture, Cuzco is a wanderer’s dream. The heart of the city is Plaza de Armas, while nearby Avenida Sol is the main business thoroughfare. Just a few blocks north or east of the plaza are twisting, cobbled streets little changed for centuries. Climb Calle Triunfo to trendy San Blas, a neighborhood of narrow passageways and staircases, full of restaurants, bars and boutique lodgings.

Terracotta hues of the Plaza de Armas / ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The inhabitants of Cuzco province are mostly indigenous Quechua people, the descendants of the Incas. Over 80% speak Spanish from childhood, the rest are Quechua speakers. In the city there is also a significant population of mestizos, whites and some international immigrants. BEST TIME The high season for travellers is June to August. Go in late June to partake in the massive solstice festival of Inti Raymi. Visit during the shoulder season months of March to May or September to October to enjoy the city and Machu Picchu with fewer crowds. A PERFECT DAY Climbing uphill out of the city to browse the immense Inca ruin of Sacsaywaman in the morning; returning to check out the colorful fruit stalls of the Mercado de San Pedro and enjoying a leisurely lunch at the market or at a rooftop restaurant; and ending your day with a powerful pisco sour and

live folklorico at the Museo del Pisco. STRENGTHS • The continent’s archaeological capital and oldest continuously inhabited city • Centuries of colonial treasures in Cuzco’s cathedral • Architecture with fine Inca craftsmanship • Proximity to Machu Picchu • Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) • Excellent Peruvian dining • Traditional textiles • Vibrant Andean culture • 12-sided stone of Hatunrumiyoc WEAKNESSES • Altitude sickness • International fast food chains on the Plaza de Armas • Black-cloud-belching buses • Strikes GOLD STAR For the potent history and rich culture of this magnetic city, whether you are exploring the colonial and religious splendours built on the hefty stone foundations of the Incas or marvelling at world-class archaeological sites. STARRING ROLE IN… • Postales (2010) • Turn Right at Machu Picchu by Mark Adams • Chronicles by Guaman Poma • The Hold Life Has by Catherine Allen • Trilce by César Vallejo IMPORT • Fútbol (football) • Pancake breakfasts • Colonial architecture

• Roman Catholicism • Mountain biking • Trance dancing to techno-cumbia EXPORT • Textiles • Incan culture • Coca • Ayahuasca • Pisco sour • Alpaca woollens • Silver jewellery with pre-Columbian designs • Pan flute music SEE the verdant Cuzco Valley spread below you from the Pucapukara archaeological site. EAT tamales (boiled corn dumplings filled with cheese or meat and wrapped in a banana leaf) for lunch at a traditional quinta, such as La Quinta Eulalia, with its shady courtyard tables. DRINK a pisco sour spiked with native herbs or jungle fruit at Museo del Pisco, where top mixologists can also teach you how to make Peru’s signature drink. DO explore Plaza de Armas – surrounded by colonial arcades, it’s fronted by a large flight of stairs and flanked by the cathedral and the churches of Jesús María and El Triunfo. WATCH a live folklore music and dance show at Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo. BUY beautiful locally made items from a tremendous variety of woollens, textiles, pottery, jewellery and art at Centro Artesanal Cuzco. AFTER DARK head to Ukuku’s for good, sweaty fun dancing to rock and reggaeton.

URBAN TALE Ever wondered what Cuzqueños do to relax instead a game of darts or pool in the local bar? Well next time you’re in a local picantería (literally ‘spicy place’) or quinta (country house serving typical Andean food) look out for a metal sapo (toad) mounted on a large box and surrounded by various holes. Men will often spend the whole afternoon drinking beer and chicha (fermented maize beer) while competing at this old test of skill in which players toss metal disks as close to the toad as possible. Top points are scored for landing it smack in the mouth.

Elaborately dressed dancers perform as part of Inti Raymi (Festival of the Sun) / HUGHES HERVÉ | GETTY IMAGES

Dakar // Senegal Relentless and complex, Dakar is like a giant termite nest, tough on the outside and teeming with life on the inside.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Dakar DATE OF BIRTH: 1857; the French established Dakar at the site of a fishing village, and in 1895 it became French West Africa’s administrative centre ADDRESS: Senegal (map 1, T14) HEIGHT: 40m SIZE: 547 sq km POPULATION: 1.1 million ANATOMY A massive square called place de l’Indépendance (usually simply called the ‘Place’) is the city’s heart. From here, major streets stem outwards, including ave Léopold Senghor (which passes the Palais Présidentiel) and ave Pompidou, the main street, which leads west to Marché Sandaga. To the south is the historical heart of the city, Plateau, where ministries and larger hotels are located. The main train station, Gare Routière Pompiers, is to the north in the city’s commercial quarter.

Sunshine, sand and surf on Dakar’s city beaches / DEREJE BELACHEW | 500PX

PEOPLE Around 90% of Senegal’s population is Muslim, including the West African ethnic groups Wolof and Mandinka. The Fula, or Peul, and the Diola are animists by tradition, while many of the Sérèr are Catholics. French is the official language, but Wolof the principal African tongue. The Fula speak Pulaar (or Fula), while the Sérèr speak Sérèr. Arabic expressions are also widely used. Like many African tribes, Senegal’s main indigenous group, the Wolof, has a highly stratified society. At the top are traditional noble and warrior families, followed by the farmers, traders and persons of caste – blacksmiths, leather workers, woodworkers, weavers and griots. Griots are the lowest of the castes but are highly respected, as they are in charge of passing on the oral traditions. Many descendants of former slaves still work as tenant farmers for the masters of old. Few people would make a big decision without consulting their town’s marabout (holy man), thought to link Senegalese Islam’s disciples and Allah. BEST TIME Dakar is arid and hot, except during the rainy season, which lasts roughly July to November and brings sweltering temperatures, though ocean breezes

do lessen the intensity. The best time to visit is January to April, when it’s warm enough to sunbathe and with pleasant, balmy evenings – but also higher prices.

Carved African masks for sale / CHARLES O. CECIL | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Quaffing tasty pastries at Pâtisserie Laetitia, then bargaining at downtown’s Marché Kermel before admiring the landmark minaret of the Grande Mosquée, and finishing the day with a beachside beer and a view at Plage N’Gor. STRENGTHS • A glimpse of the African urban future • Palais Présidentiel • Marché Kermel • Delicious poisson yassa (fish grilled with a sauce made from onions, lemon and mustard) • IFAN Museum of African Arts • Grande Mosquée • Simple corner stalls selling bread with butter, chocolate spread, mayonnaise and sardines • Senegalese beer (especially Gazelle and Flag) • Saying ‘non, merci!’ three times to get rid of hustlers • Mbalax music WEAKNESSES • Muggings and pickpockets in broad daylight • Scams • Petty theft • Aggressive street hawkers • Massive visible disparity between rich and poor

Traditional wrestling takes place at Demba Diop Stadium / LI JING/XINHUA | ALAMY LIVE NEWS

GOLD STAR For the lively, imaginative displays at the IFAN Museum of African Arts, which provide an overview of regional styles from across West Africa and include masks, traditional dress, beautiful fabrics, carvings, drums and tools. STARRING ROLE IN… • Badou Boy (1970) • Touki Bouki (1973) • Sélbe: One Among Many (1983) • Topics of West African History by Adu Boahen • The Belly of the Atlantic by Fatou Diome IMPORT • Western pop, rock and soul • Progress, including women’s rights • A sophisticated international crowd

EXPORT • Mbalax music • Agricultural and fish processing • Singer Youssou N’Dour • Phosphates • Touré Kunda • Petroleum SEE the works of Senegal’s best photographers, painters and sculptors in a garden gallery at Village des Arts. EAT tasty, cheap and filling fajayas (street snacks similar to samosas) at Chawarma Donald. DRINK budget-priced beer at Bar Gorée, opposite the Gorée ferry wharf, filled with salty patrons and a lively, downmarket vibe. DO visit the fishing village of Soumbédioune, west of the city centre, especially at dusk to witness pirogues (colourful local boats) beach themselves. WATCH traditional Senegalese wrestling matches (les luttes in French) at the Stade Iba Mar Diop. BUY beautiful West African fabrics at Marché Sandaga. AFTER DARK hit Club Thiossane, a steamy, crowded nightclub in La Médina owned by international music star Youssou N’Dour (who sometimes makes an appearance).

URBAN TALE Once translators and diplomats to the royal courts, Dakar’s modern-day griots are akin to singing historians and genealogists, invited to the most important social events such as weddings and naming ceremonies and lavishly paid to recite epics and family histories – the equivalent,

perhaps, of a librarian, a gossipy grandmother and a busking folk singer rolled into one.

The striking winged roof of Dakar’s Université Cheikh Anta Diop de Dakar / MJ PHOTOGRAPHY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Dar es Salaam // Tanzania Dar es Salaam – Tanzania’s unofficial capital – is one of Africa’s fastest growing cities. Yet despite this congestion, the city centre remains a fascinating place, with an intriguing mix of cultural and architectural influences, a long history and some lovely nearby beaches.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Dar es Salaam NICKNAME: Dar DATE OF BIRTH: 1866, when the Arab Sultan of Zanzibar saw Dar’s potential as a deep water port ADDRESS: Tanzania (map 1, AA17) HEIGHT: 24m SIZE: 1397 sq km POPULATION: 4.4 million ANATOMY Dar’s bustling city centre spreads out from the port and harbour area, where dhows jostle for space with massive supertankers, and ferries head off regularly to nearby Zanzibar. Inland is the Asian quarter, with its Indian merchants and traders. It is here that the city is at its most exotic, with dozens of shops selling everything from textiles to spicy samosas. North of the centre on the Msasani Peninsula are upmarket residential areas. To the southeast is the lively fish market and the 680m suspension bridge connecting Dar with Kigamboni and the southern beaches. The city centre is fairly compact, and easily negotiated on foot or by taxi.

Sweeping views over Dar es Salaam to the Msasani Peninsula / MARKO BALENOVIC | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Dar es Salaam’s population is primarily African, with influxes from all over Tanzania. A vibrant Asian population spices up the city and its food, and there is also a Middle Eastern influence. Less than 1% of the total population is European. Swahili (KiSwahili) is the main language, although many residents, especially those involved with the tourist sector, also speak English. Within the city, there is a roughly equal split between Christians and Muslims. BEST TIME Dar es Salaam can be visited at any time of year, although be prepared for minor flooding and massive downpours during the March to May rainy season. Temperatures are most pleasant between mid-June and late August, with cool nights and temperate days. Humidity is highest around January and February.

A brightly clad woman stands at the elaborately carved wooden entrance to her home / NIGEL PAVITT | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Sipping spiced tea at Chapan Bhog or one of the other Asian restaurants on temple-lined Kisutu St, followed by walking around the busy central area, getting a feel for life on the streets. Afterwards, heading to Coco Beach on the Msasani Peninsula for an afternoon relaxing with locals and watching the kite surfers, or taking a boat from the Slipway pier to nearby Bongoyo Island to enjoy sea views and sand. STRENGTHS • Nearby Beaches • Sea views and sea breezes • Vibrant cultural melting pot • Global cuisine • Cheap hotels • Top-end hotels • National Museum • International flights • Plentiful taxis • Relaxed atmosphere WEAKNESSES • Tropical heat and humidity • Massive traffic jams during rush hour • Crowded sidewalks GOLD STAR For the nearby beaches – there are many lovely tropical beaches within easy reach of the city centre, including South Beach (reached via the Kigamboni suspension bridge) and beaches on Zanzibar Island, just a ferry ride away. STARRING ROLE IN… • Zanzibar by Giles Foden • Uhuru Street by MG Vassanji

• Dar es Salaam by Night by Ben Mtobwa IMPORT • Tanzanians from all over the country • German, Asian and British architectural styles • Tuk-tuks (bajaji) • British parliamentary system (with modifications) EXPORT • Bongo Flava • Tinga Tinga paintings • Cashews • Coffee • Natural gas SEE historical exhibits and a wealth of cultural artefacts at the recently remodelled National Museum. EAT the famous mishkaki (grilled meat) with the locals at long-standing and popular local eatery Chef’s Pride. DRINK a liquid lunch in the fun beach-front bar at Coco Beach. DO take a boat to Bongoyo Island to enjoy sea views, snorkelling and relaxing. WATCH a traditional dance performance at the Village Museum, outside the city centre. BUY sculptures carved from ebony grown in sustainable plantations from the Nyerere Cultural Centre & Nyumbaa Ya Sanaa. AFTER DARK jump in a taxi to Level 8, the Hyatt’s elegant rooftop bar, for live music and the best views over the harbour.

URBAN TALE

Pocobawa, a shetani or evil spirit from the nearby island of Pemba, is responsible for waves of mass hysteria in Tanzania. In 2007, parts of Dar es Salaam were terrorised by a spate of alleged nocturnal attacks by the demon, whose name translates as ‘bat wing’, but who can take many forms. During the panic, people took to sleeping outdoors in groups, for safety.

Bustling crowds at the local fish market / TOM COCKREM | GETTY IMAGES

Delhi // India Fast-paced and frantic, Delhi often overwhelms, but this madcap metropolis has hidden depths. Tucked amongst the tangle of bazaars and jam-packed highways are formidable fortifications, magnificent mosques, towering temples and the tombs of some of India’s greatest emperors.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Delhi DATE OF BIRTH: 786 AD, when Lal Kot was founded as the capital of the Tomar kings ADDRESS: India (map 6, D5) HEIGHT: 216m SIZE: 1483 sq km POPULATION: 16.8 million ANATOMY Delhi sprawls over the ruins of seven ancient cities, flanking the Yamuna River, but most visitors get their bearings in New Delhi, the orderly colonial quarter centred on Connaught Place. To the north are the tangled bazaars of Old Delhi, home to the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid and most of Delhi’s budget accommodation, and between the two is New Delhi Railway Station. South of Connaught Place, Janpath cuts a broad swathe towards India Gate and the grand administrative buildings of the Indian government. The clean and efficient Delhi Metro runs to the southern suburbs, home to the extravagant ruins of the Qutb Minar. Downtown, get around on buses, taxis, rickshaws and autorickshaws.

Delhi’s sprawling streets as seen from the vantage of the Jama Masjid mosque / DAVID PEARSON | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Delhiites have a complex lineage, born of centuries of migration. Inhabitants of the old city are traditionally Muslim, but a large part of the population is descended from Hindu families from Lahore, who migrated south in waves from the colonial period through to the chaos of Partition. Today, Delhi is 82% Hindu and only 13% Muslim, with smaller groups of Sikhs, Jains, Christians and Buddhist refugees from Tibet. Around 81% of people speak Hindu, but 7% speak Punjabi and 6% speak Urdu. BEST TIME Delhi is hot year round but the mercury climbs to painful levels in April and May, before the monsoon dumps staggering amounts of rain on the city from July to September. The dry winter months are gentlest on travellers, with warm days and pleasantly cool nights.

A uniformed train attendant awaits passengers at Safdarjung Station / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Perusing the Times of India over breakfast at Connaught Place, then ducking into the eccentric precinct of the Jantar Mantar, Jai Singh II’s ancient observatory, before delving into the maze-like lanes of Old Delhi to admire the Red Fort and the sublime symmetry of the Jama Masjid. Recuperating afterwards back in New Delhi in the elegant grounds of Humayun’s Tomb. STRENGTHS • Bustling, beguiling bazaars • Magnificent Mughal relics • The calm order of New Delhi • Faded colonial grandeur at Connaught Place • Fabulous street food and fine dining • The stately tombs of centuries’ worth of emperors and sultans • Islamic extravagance at Qutb Minar • Sufi mysticism in the lanes of Nizamuddin • Trinket-packed state emporiums along Baba Kharak Singh Marg WEAKNESSES • Plentiful scams and touts • Some of Asia’s worst pollution • Notorious traffic congestion • Few places to escape the noise and chaos • The yawning gulf between rich and poor

Colourful doorways and resting rickshaws / EDDIE HUIBONHOA | 500PX

GOLD STAR For centuries of magnificent history. The history of Delhi is the history of India in miniature – Hindu kings, invading sultans, the rise and fall of Mughals and the arrogance of empire. Eight royal cities have risen on the banks of the Yamuna River and the tombs of many of India’s greatest rulers are dotted around the streets of the capital, surrounded by the palaces and religious institutions they founded. STARRING ROLE IN… • Monsoon Wedding (2001) • The Guru (2002) • American Daylight (2004) • City of Djinns by William Dalrymple • The White Tiger by Aravind Adiga IMPORT • Colonial architects and attitudes

• The British Raj • Daily newspapers • High tea and tiffin • Sultans and emperors from Persia and Central Asia • Punjabi migrants • Tibetan refugees • Western fast-food chains EXPORT • Textiles and Indian apparel • Spices and incense • Bollywood star Shah Rukh Khan • British politician Paddy Ashdown • Singer Mukesh Chandra Mathur • Artist MF Hussain • IT and technology SEE the awe-inspiring Jama Masjid, the final architectural extravagance of Shah Jahan. EAT fat, syrupy jalebis (fried, sweet dough ‘squiggles’) at centuries-old Jalebiwala in the Chandni Chowk bazaar. DRINK high tea from porcelain cups at the elegant Imperial Hotel. DO chill out away from the traffic snarls in the peaceful Lodi Gardens, surrounded by the tombs of forgotten sultans. WATCH Sufis singing haunting qawwalis (devotional songs) at the tomb of Nizam-ud-Din Auliya. BUY wonderful handicrafts, fragrant incense, paper kites and spices from the maze-like bazaars south of Chandni Chowk. AFTER DARK check out the buzzing bars of Hauz Khas, the arty enclave surrounding the royal tank of Sultan Ala-ud-Din Khilji.

URBAN TALE Popular Hindu mythology claims that Delhi was the site of the fabled city of Indraprastha, which featured in the Mahabharata over 3000 years ago, but archaeologists can only trace the city’s origins to around 786 AD. There’s rather more evidence for the Eight Cities of Delhi, founded by a succession of invading kings, sultans and emperors. As well as Shah Jahanabad, whose ruins lie scattered through the streets of Old Delhi, take time to explore Sher Shah’s capital at Purana Qila and the djinnhaunted ruins of Feroz Shah’s royal city at Feroz Shah Kotla.

The striking Baha’i Lotus Temple / DOESCHER | GETTY IMAGES

Dhaka // Bangladesh A city of three million rickshaws, Dhaka is as crowded, noisy and chaotic as it is colourful and charismatic.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Dhaka DATE OF BIRTH: Between the 4th and 7th centuries, as a small Buddhist settlement; the Mughals made it capital of Bengal in 1608 ADDRESS: Bangladesh (map 6, G6) HEIGHT: 8m SIZE: 414 sq km POPULATION: 17 million ANATOMY Situated amid a maze of rivers and canals, Dhaka seems at times to be only just keeping its head above the water. A frenzied network of bus services and trains will get you around town to the main attractions, but rickshaws are the quintessential way to explore. The attractions of Old Dhaka are concentrated on Sadarghat and the river; colonial ghosts swirl in Central Dhaka, while the modern middle classes fraternise in suburban Gulshan and Banani.

The half-finished, 17th-century Lalbagh Fort sits pretty in its serene gardens / ASHIK MASUD | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Dhaka’s citizens are almost 100% Bengali, and most residents are fiercely loyal to the regional identity that existed before Bengal Province was split into West Bengal and East Pakistan in 1947. The official language is Bangla (also known as Bengali) and around 90% of the population is Muslim, with a small population of Hindus (around 7%) who stayed behind after Partition. Dhaka’s citizens are enthusiastically religious and dogmatically political – hartals (strikes) and anti-hartal demonstrations are commonplace. BEST TIME Visiting water-logged Dhaka is best done during the dry season from October to April. Be prepared for delays to travel during the monsoon and Islamic holidays – particularly the fasting month of Ramadan. A PERFECT DAY Soaking up the captivating cacophony at Sadarghat, ideally from a small boat

out on the Buriganga River, then riding a vividly painted rickshaw to the Lalbagh Fort and Pink Palace, before retreating to Gulshan for some high living and a slap-up dinner at one of Dhaka’s best restaurants. STRENGTHS • A rich history visible everywhere • The frenetic energy of Sadarghat • Tangled bazaars of Old Dhaka • Abundant cha (tea) wallahs • Fabulous rickshaw art • Delicious Bengali cuisine • Friendly and inquisitive locals • Charmingly faded colonial architecture • Impressive cultural events WEAKNESSES • Polluted waterways and air • Challenging poverty • Overcrowding and congestion • Red puddles of betel-nut spit • Regular hartals (strikes) • An upsurge in militancy • Flooding • Corruption and bureaucracy GOLD STAR For Dhaka’s irrepressible energy – despite the challenges thrown its citizens by poverty, overcrowding, congestion, political corruption and the climate, residents of Dhaka manage to stay positive and full of enthusiasm for life. STARRING ROLE IN… • Tale of the Darkest Night (2001) • The Clay Bird (2002) • Lajja by Taslima Nasrin • The Shadow Lines by Amitav Ghosh

IMPORT • Western fizzy drinks • Fast food • Remittances sent home by Bangladeshis working overseas • Foreign aid • Cricket • Used cars • Gas and electricity (from India and Myanmar) • Alcohol; for expats only EXPORT • Jute • Pink pearls • Tasty tea • Bulk-produced clothing for foreign fashion labels • Hilaral Sen, the subcontinent’s first film-maker • Brick Lane author Monica Ali • Talented cricket players • Leather (killing cows is taboo in neighbouring India) SEE the captivating waterborne chaos at Sadarghat, where legions of tiny rowboats jostle for space with fishing dinghies, passenger ferries and the ancient paddle-steamers known as ‘Rockets’. EAT doi ilish – a richly spiced, creamy curry made from local hilsa fish, regarded as the tastiest catch from the Bay of Bengal. DRINK cha, Bengali tea, served sweet, milky and spiced, using leaves harvested from the hilltop tea plantations around Sylhet and Chittagong. DO a walking tour around the historic Hindu artisan hub of Hindu St with an enthusiastic Shankari guide. WATCH local artists transforming rickshaws into mobile works of art at the rickshaw workshops on Bangshal Rd. BUY your own personalised Dhallywood film poster, with your face painted

in as lead actor, from top handicraft emporium Jatra. AFTER DARK tap into Bengal’s rich culture of dance and music with a show at the Shilpakala Academy.

URBAN TALE There are rival stories about where Dhaka got its name, with some crediting the dhak trees that flourish in the Buriganga delta and others claiming the name comes from an ancient watchtower that guarded the capitals of the pre-Islamic rulers of Bengal. However, one early British resident reported that the name comes from the Dhakeshwari Hindu temple, the oldest in the country, founded on the site of a revered Durga idol that was found concealed – one possible meaning of the phonetic sound ‘dhaka’ – in the jungle.

Rickshaw traffic on the busy Dhaka streets / MICHAEL RUNKEL/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

Dubai // United Arab Emirates With a slightly surreal mix of dazzling consumerism and Arabian culture with an Islamic influence, Dubai is at once an excellent, easy introduction to the Middle East and a place apart like no other on the planet.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Dubai NICKNAME: Do Buy DATE OF BIRTH: 5000 BC; when trade in the area began ADDRESS: United Arab Emirates (map 5, P11) HEIGHT: 5m SIZE: 35 sq km POPULATION: 2.64 million ANATOMY Dubai’s original heart is really two towns split by the Dubai Creek (Khor Dubai), an inlet of the Gulf. North of the creek lies Deira, an older city centred on creekside Baniyas Rd, while the opposite bank has the glittering new office buildings of Bur Dubai clustered along Sheikh Zayed Rd (also known as Trade Centre Rd). As the city has grown at a sometimes frightening speed, other hubs of tourism development and urban expansion have sprung up, among them Jumeirah, Oud Metha, Umm Suqeim and Al-Sofouh.

The futuristic streetscape of Dubai’s Sheik Zayed Rd / VISIONS OF OUR LAND | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE More than 80% of Dubai’s residents are expats (many drawn from Asia and the Philippines), who were born in other countries and have chosen to make the city their home. UAE nationals (or Emiratis) are a minority. While the official language is Arabic, you can expect to hear English, Persian, Hindi and Tagalog spoken throughout the city. It’s a city where the contrasts don’t always sit easily – the ostentatious displays of wealth built by poorly paid guest workers, the call to prayer and the triumph of flashy commercialism, the rush to embrace everything new by a population that remains, in many ways, deeply traditional. These juxtapositions are either part of the city’s curious charm or a disconnect with the image of itself the city sells to the world. It all depends on your perspective. BEST TIME Dubai is uncomfortably, sometimes unbearably hot from May or June through to September or October. Air-conditioning is universal, but any time spent outside can be withering. Things are much more bearable from

November through to April.

A giant stingray swims through an aquarium inside the Atlantis Hotel on Palm Jumeirah / BUENA VISTA IMAGES | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Snapping up a bargain in the Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping mall by area, sailing in for a closer view of Burj al Arab, sniffing the richness of Deira Spice Souq, catching a dhow to Deira, and finally relaxing with sheesha (a tobacco water pipe often flavoured with honey or apple) in a courtyard café. STRENGTHS • Burj Khalifa • Burj al Arab • Fashion • Duty-free shopping • Dubai Museum • Jumeirah Mosque • The Palm Islands • Deira Gold Souq • Dhows • Deira Spice Souq • Grand Mosque • Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum House WEAKNESSES • Emirati cuisine is hard to find • Searing summer heat

Camel polo at Dubai Polo and Equestrian Club / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For wacky construction projects – whether it’s the world’s largest indoor ski slope, biggest mall, tallest building or reclaiming islands in the shape of the globe, there are always design challenges being dreamed up in Dubai. STARRING ROLE IN… • Code 46 (2003) • Dubai Tales by Mohammad al-Murr • Don’t They Know It’s Friday? by Jeremy Williams • Father of Dubai: Shaikh Rashid bin Saeed al-Maktoum by Graeme Wilson IMPORT • Tax-dodging corporations • Tourists • Latest fashions

• Gold, perfume and spice • Bollywood movies EXPORT • Oil and gas • General Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the crown prince of Dubai • Duty-free goods • Film director Masoud Amralla al-Ali • Singer Yasser Habeeb SEE the top of all the other skyscrapers poking through the clouds from the observation deck of Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building. EAT fish so fresh it’s still flapping at the Deira Fish Market, where you select the city’s best seafood and pay by weight. DRINK nothing but water as you sample apple or vanilla sheesha at Cosmo Café. DO take a dhow cruise to see how spice, gold and perfume are still delivered to the souqs (markets). WATCH the Bedouin dance ayyalah – a celebration of the tribe’s courage, strength and unity – performed at the Heritage Village. BUY spices at a souq, but only after haggling for half an hour to save five dirhams. AFTER DARK hop into lush French bar Boudoir to rub shoulders with visiting supermodels.

URBAN TALE Even with the huge import of Ferraris and Maseratis, dhows remain the defining vehicle of Dubai, just as they were centuries ago. The Dhow

Wharfage is still piled high with assorted goods from Iran, India, Pakistan and East Africa and Dubai was once one of the most important dhow-building centres in the Gulf. The larger dhows used for longdistance journeys were called al-boom, al-bateel and al-baglah, and were up to 60m in length. Some of them have now been turned into cruise vessels and floating restaurants.

Abras (water taxis) cross Old Dubai’s creek, around which the city grew / ANDREW MONGOMERY | LONELY PLANET

Dublin // Ireland Dublin mightn’t be the prettiest city in Europe, but for poetry, pubs, people and garrulous sociability, you can’t do better.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Dublin NICKNAME: Dub DATE OF BIRTH: 6th century AD; established as a monastic settlement ADDRESS: Ireland (map 4, D7) HEIGHT: 47m SIZE: 114 sq km POPULATION: 1.27 million ANATOMY Dublin sprawls around Dublin Bay with the River Liffey dividing the city. North of the river, busy O’Connell St leads to Parnell Sq and, to the west, Smithfield and the Phoenix Park. On the south side lie cobbled Temple Bar and the stately houses and elegant parks of Georgian Dublin. The DART train line links the seaside suburbs, and the LUAS light-rail system connects the south to the centre.

Sun shines on the River Liffey as it cuts through central Dublin / DAVID SOANES | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Traditionally, a ‘true’ Dubliner hailed from between the canals (as did their parents and grandparents before them), but the city’s changing demographics have made that all but irrelevant. These days you’re as likely to meet a Dub whose parents were born in Warsaw, Lagos or Beijing. Dubliners don’t stand on ceremony and are known for their irreverent humour. Liberal attitudes toward most social issues prevail. A long way from the Gaeltacht (Irishspeaking region), most Dubliners speak their own colourful take on the English language. C’mere till I tell ya… BEST TIME The weather should be at its best from June to August, but September is often warm and sunny. The festival season kicks off with St Patrick’s Day (17 March) and runs through until late October – which means there’s usually something to see, eat, or listen to almost every weekend.

Dublin’s streets rattle and hum with the sound of buskers’ music around every corner / ANDREA BOCCINI | 500PX

A PERFECT DAY Starting with porridge and a fresh juice from one of the trendy cafes in town and then off to Croker (Croke Park) to see the Dubs put a beating on their opponents on the way to another All-Ireland football final. Celebrating a tighter-than-anticipated victory with dinner in Coppinger Row and a couple of pints in Grogan’s, but not getting stocious because you’ve got tickets to see a gig in Whelan’s. STRENGTHS • Cracking nightlife, every night of the week • Well-preserved Georgian streetscapes • Terrific restaurant scene, including great Modern Irish • St Stephen’s Green • Proud literary heritage • The banter • Trinity College

• Chester Beatty Library • Dublin City Gallery – The Hugh Lane • Irish Museum of Modern Art, both the collections and the site WEAKNESSES • City-centre traffic, especially on the quays • Crass, soulless ‘theme’ bars • Overpriced pints • The seemingly interminable roadworks • Urban planning, or lack of it • The rain GOLD STAR For its world-class pub culture – despite the onslaught of gastro-pubs and chains, Dublin is still the best place for a pint in the world. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Dead (1988) • My Left Foot (1989) • The Commitments (1991) • Into the West (1992) • Circle of Friends (1995) • The General (1997) • Intermission (2003) • Veronica Guerin (2003) • Ulysses by James Joyce • Paddy Clarke Ha Ha Ha by Roddy Doyle • Cowboys and Indians by Joseph O’Connor IMPORT • Football • Espresso • Summer vegetables • John Rocha • Australian bar staff • British stags and hens

• Irvine Welsh • Thin Lizzy’s Phil Lynott (born in Birmingham, raised in Dublin) EXPORT • Guinness • James Joyce • Georgian door knockers • U2 • Hozier • Conor McGregor • Sinead O’Connor • Francis Bacon • Oscar Wilde • Colin Farrell • Jameson whiskey • Katie Taylor SEE the wonderful exhibits of the Little Museum of Dublin – all of which were donated by Dubliners. EAT the Irish stalwart of bacon and organic cabbage from The Winding Stair; this Irish classic has never tasted so good. DRINK the porter at Grogan’s on South William St. DO everything in your power to get a ticket to the All-Ireland Hurling Finals at Croke Park in September. WATCH a masterfully presented classic play at the Gate Theatre. BUY a hand-painted printed dress by Helen Steele from Costume in Castle Market. AFTER DARK take advantage of the late licence and mood lighting upstairs at the No Name Bar.

URBAN TALE Although arguably Ireland’s most famous musical export, the members of U2 have continued to live in or around Dublin throughout their stellar international career. Most Dubliners will have a tale involving the seemingly ubiquitous Bono. These range from the banal to the mildly disturbing: being a waitress and serving him gravy; seeing him scribbling (a song perhaps?) on Killiney Beach; minding your business, sitting by the Grand Canal Docks and himself turning up in a currach (small boat), waving and shouting ‘Thank you, Ireland!’.

The hallowed halls of the Old Library, Trinity College / CLU | GETTY IMAGES

Dubrovnik // Croatia In Dubrovnik’s walled city, paving stones gleam under the moonlight and watchtowers gaze across the Adriatic Sea. Wartime scars are barely visible amid the timeless magic of the immaculately restored Old Town.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Dubrovnik NICKNAME: Pearl of the Adriatic DATE OF BIRTH: 7th century; when residents of the Roman city of Epidaurum fled to the rocky islet and dubbed it Laus ADDRESS: Croatia (map 4, Q15) HEIGHT: 49m Size: 22 sq km POPULATION: 42,600 ANATOMY Dubrovnik spreads along 6km of Croatia’s southern coast, beneath Mt Srd (412m). Its heart is the walled Old Town, devoid of cars and bisected by Placa (or Stradun), an exceptionally beautiful pedestrian street. Beyond these historic walls, Dubrovnik bulges west into the Lapad peninsula, characterised by leafy residential streets, rocky beaches and abundant accommodation. East of the Old Town is Ploče, home to Banje beach and several upmarket hotels, while off the coast you’ll see the Elafiti Islands, beckoning visitors to day-trip from the city. Many visitors content themselves with walking around the Old Town, though buses connect the various neighbourhoods, and daily ferries reach the islands (several per day in summer, less in low season).

Picturesque Dubrovnik Harbour with the Old Fortress standing sentry / SAMANTHA T. PHOTOGRAPHY | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Since the 1991–95 Croatian War of Independence, Dubrovnik’s population has been almost exclusively Croat and Catholic, with small minority groups of Serbs, Slovenians, Italians, Czechs and Muslims. Dubrovnik’s residents are generally relaxed and cheerful, a cosmopolitan set who borrow liberally from Italian fashion and cuisine. BEST TIME September, when weather remains warm and sunny but cruise ships have mostly lifted anchor, is one of the loveliest months to visit Dubrovnik. October is almost as pleasant, and features distractions like the Jam Festival and Film Festival. Don’t discount a visit in winter: Christmas brings markets, January has the carnival, while the city’s patron – St Blaise – is celebrated in early February.

Street eats at the Gunduliceeva Poljana Market / LATITUDESTOCK - FRANK FELL | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Strolling along the walls of the fortified city, taking in the patchwork of coral-coloured roofs, before making your way down the town’s pedestrian promenade, Placa, where you’ll be overwhelmed by the heady rush of cultural, religious and historic landmarks – not to mention the great dining options. STRENGTHS • Fortified town walls and gleaming marble streets • Dubrovnik’s Summer Festival – the most prestigious in Croatia • The quiet Elafiti Islands, only a short hop away • Deliciously fresh seafood • Cable car rides to the top of Mt Srd • Gothic-meets-Renaissance Sponza Palace • Re-enacting scenes from Game of Thrones on the city walls • Monasteries and churches • Sumptuous sea-facing hotels • Poignant war museums WEAKNESSES • Located in a zone that is both geologically and politically seismic • Floods of tourists during high summer • Cruise ships • Selfie sticks everywhere • The scramble of private-accommodation owners at the bus station, eager for tourist money

Pretty coves dot the Dalmatian Coastline near Dubrovnik / GEOFF DE VISSER/EYEEM | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For fabulous fortification – never has a town so stylishly strengthened itself against invasion. Dating to the 9th century and fortified in the 14th, Dubrovnik’s walls are between 1.5m and 6m thick, with lofty lookout towers gazing out to sea. STARRING ROLE IN… • Game of Thrones (TV series 2011–) • Star Wars: Episode VIII (2017) • Illyrian Spring by Ann Bridge • The Sound of Blue by Holly Payne • The Ragusa Theme by Ann Quinton • The Road to Dalmatia by Christopher Dilke

IMPORT • Ancient Greek sailors • Italian dialects • Shipwrecks • Cruise-ship tourists • Investment in real estate • Glamorous yachts • Honeymooners • George Bernard Shaw EXPORT • Adriatic figs • Writer Marin Držić • Croatian literature • Jams, jellies and candied fruit • Poet Ivan Gundulić • Astronomer, poet and philosopher Ruder Bošković • Božidarević, Dobričević and Hamzić, Dubrovnik’s finest 15th- and 16thcentury artists SEE the roofs of Dubrovnik and epic views of the sea from a walk around its Old Town walls. EAT succulent seafood – like Bloody Mary oysters, swordfish steaks and garlicky seabass – at Amfora. DRINK a toast to the sunset from Buža, a pricey-but-worth-it clifftop bar with soaring views. DO escape to Lokrum Island for a day to explore flourishing forests and luxuriate in a salty lake or on its nudist beach. WATCH movie screenings after sundown at open-air summertime Slavica Cinema. BUY candied fruit, intricate lacework and fig brandy from local markets.

AFTER DARK head to tucked-away wine bars like D’vino, followed by live jazz at Troubadour.

URBAN TALE Daenerys Stormborn, a character in Game of Thrones, styles herself as the ‘breaker of chains’ and frees enormous numbers of captive slaves. It’s an apt sentiment for a TV series partly filmed in Dubrovnik, one the first places in history to have formally outlawed slavery (way back in 1416).

Sunset views over Dubrovnik’s Old Town from the top of Mt Srd / CHRIS WINSOR | GETTY IMAGES

Dunedin // New Zealand This far-flung city feels a little like Edinburgh with its colonial buildings, hilly streets, cold weather, and the breaking out of haggis and bagpipes on any possible occasion.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Dunedin NICKNAME: Edinburgh of the South DATE OF BIRTH: 1848; when Scottish settlers arrived ADDRESS: New Zealand (map 1, QQ23) HEIGHT: 150m SIZE: 255 sq km POPULATION: 118,500 ANATOMY Downtown Dunedin is centered on the Octagon and radiates from here. The main retail and business area first grew along the intersection of Princes and Rattray Sts, but has slowly moved north to George St. Bluestone Victorian buildings punctuate the compact centre, and timber houses ranging from stately to ramshackle pepper the hilly suburbs which are broken up by the Otago Harbour. Dunedin’s bus network extends across the city. It’s particularly handy for getting to St Clair, St Kilda, Port Chalmers and as far afield as Portobello on the Otago Peninsula.

The ornate and grandiose Dunedin Railway Station / LAGARDE | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Dunedin is less ethnically diverse than other parts of New Zealand. Most residents (88%) have European heritage, while 8% identify as Māori. There are smaller populations of Asian and Pacific Islander migrants. There is a large student population in the city (about 20%), and while incomes are slightly lower than elsewhere in the country, house prices are also lower and the standard of living is high. BEST TIME Dunedin is a university town which means it’s pretty vibey all year round even when it’s cold. And it does get cold, bitterly cold, in the winter, but it is mild in summer. November to March is the best time to visit for maximum sunlight and to catch local wildlife like the royal albatross colony at Taiaroa Head. A PERFECT DAY Browsing the plaques along the Writer’s Walk in the Octagon and checking

out city centre landmarks such as St Paul’s Cathedral, then heading to the impressive Dunedin Railway Station (one of NZ’s most photographed buildings), popping into Art Station and grabbing a top-notch coffee at Ironic Café & Bar across the road. Tackling Baldwin St before lunch to work up an appetite, then heading to St Kilda or St Clair for an afternoon dip or winter stroll. Later, dining at Bracken or whatever is the latest star of Modern NZ cuisine. STRENGTHS • Bluestone heritage including the Dunedin Railway Station and Otago University • World’s steepest residential street: Baldwin St • Annual Jaffa race on Baldwin St • Surf beaches with epic breaks not far from the city • Olveston, a 1906 mansion providing a window into Dunedin’s past • Interactive storytelling at Toitū Otago Settlers Museum • Wildlife viewing on the neighbouring Otago Peninsula WEAKNESSES • Beyond the centre the city is spread out with infrequent public transport especially on weekends • Hilly, bring your walking shoes and add some time to your itinerary • International acts often skip it on their world tours • You’re a long way south here, bring a woollen jersey as it can get nippy quickly GOLD STAR For being a city of learning: as well as inspiring many great writers and being home to the country’s first university, Dunedin has been named a Unesco City of Literature and has the highest per capita use of public libraries in New Zealand. STARRING ROLE IN… • An Angel at My Table (1990) • Sylvia (2003) • Out of the Blue (2006)

• The Light Between Oceans (2014) IMPORT • Strong newspaper culture • Whisky • Street art • Stand out Farmers Market EXPORT • Janet Frame, writer and Nobel Prize nominee • Sir Harold Delf Gillies, father of modern day plastic surgery • Test cricketers • Rugby players SEE interactive exhibits about the first peoples of Dunedin at the Toitū Otago Settlers Museum. EAT modern Kiwi food and wine at No 7 Balmac on Maori Hill – not exactly easy to get to, but worth the journey. DRINK at one of the world’s smallest bars, Mou Very – it’s only 1.8m wide, but is still big enough to host regular DJs, live bands and poetry readings. DO run, walk or crawl up the very steep Baldwin St. WATCH the sea breaking under sandstone arches at Tunnel Beach. BUY fashion and shoes by local designers and made with local materials. AFTER DARK find a cosy bar for a lock-in: it’s cold at night here.

URBAN TALE The city’s name comes from Dùn Èideann, the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh, at the behest of the Scottish publisher and the godfather of the encyclopedia, William Chambers. He wrote an impassioned letter

arguing against New Edinburgh as the settlement’s name saying the trend of the time for ‘New’ to be affixed to place names was an ‘utter abomination’.

A southern fur seal surveys the Otago Peninsula, near Dunedin / IMAGEBROKER | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Edinburgh // Scotland Splendidly situated Edinburgh bristles with medieval tenements, glowering castles, fine museums, cheery pubs and a festival scene the envy of the world.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Edinburgh NICKNAME: Athens of the North; Auld Reekie (Old Smoky) DATE OF BIRTH: 1130 AD; while prehistoric, Celtic, Roman and Anglo-Saxon inhabitants had made this natural fortress their home, it was in this year that David I officially founded the royal burgh ADDRESS: Scotland (map 4, F5) HEIGHT: 70m SIZE: 264 sq km POPULATION: 482,938 ANATOMY Edinburgh is strung between three peaks: prominent, fortified Castle Rock; the green slopes of Calton Hill; and the leonine bluff called Arthur’s Seat, rearing out of the broad acres of Holyrood Park. The main river, the Water of Leith, runs along the northwestern border of the New Town, a stately district characterised by regular Georgian terraces and squares and separated from the Old Town, which lies to the south, by the valley of Princes St Gardens. The Old Town itself is a delightful maze of medieval alleys trickling off the Royal Mile, which climbs from the Palace of Holyroodhouse up to Edinburgh Castle. Buses, trams and your feet are the best means of transport in this hilly burgh.

Edinburgh’s labyrinthine old town is framed by Arthur’s Seat in the background / THEASIS | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Edinburgh is Scotland’s most cosmopolitan and middle-class city. Many Irish and English people have settled here and there are smaller ethnic communities, including Indians, Pakistanis, Bangladeshis, Italians, Poles, Chinese and Spanish. During the Edinburgh Festival the city’s population swells to twice its size. BEST TIME The months with the best weather – June to August – are also those when Auld Reekie is awash with visitors. If you’re not here for one of the brilliant high-summer festivals, consider spring or autumn.

The cast iron figures of the Ross Fountain look towards the natural stone ramparts and man-made fortress walls of Edinburgh Castle / JOHN LAWSON, BELHAVEN | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Sipping a latte in Grassmarket before wandering down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Park and climbing up Arthur’s Seat, followed by some restorative shopping in Harvey Nichols and a dish of oysters on ice at the Café Royal Oyster Bar. STRENGTHS • Museum of Scotland • Cycling on Union Canal towpath • Elegant Georgian terraces of New Town • Arthur’s Seat • Scottish Parliament Building • Princes St Gardens • More restaurants per capita than any UK city bar London • The rehabilitation of once-soot-blackened buildings • The International, Film and Fringe Festivals • The Military Tattoo • Hogmanay • Royal Mile WEAKNESSES • Dearth of parking spaces • Lack of live music • Excessive souvenir shops • Closes (alleyways) in the Old Town are steep and full of steps GOLD STAR For the Fringe – held concurrently with the more highbrow International Festival, it is the largest arts festival in the world, and sees Edinburgh reach rarefied heights of revelry. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie (1969)

• Trainspotting (1996) and Trainspotting 2 (2017) • Complicity by Ian Banks • The Falls by Ian Rankin IMPORT • Theatrical students for the Edinburgh fringe • JK Rowling • Ian Rankin • Alexander McCall Smith • Hugh MacDiarmid EXPORT • Sir Sean Connery • Robert Louis Stevenson • Howie Nicholsby of 21st Century Kilts • The Encyclopaedia Britannica and Chambers Encyclopaedia (first published in Edinburgh) • Sir Walter Scott • Irvine Welsh • Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (creator of Sherlock Holmes) • Dame Muriel Spark • Finlay Quaye • The Scottish Colourists • Adam Smith SEE Edinburgh Castle on its perfectly defensible perch, Castle Rock. EAT shredded lamb with skirlie (fried oatmeal and onion) at Dogs, in the New Town. DRINK one or two of the 100 malts on offer at Victorian Bennet’s Bar, South Edinburgh. DO carry your flaming brand to the fiery spring festival of Beltane on Calton Hill. WATCH obscure plays with an audience of one at the Edinburgh Festival

Fringe. BUY exquisite, contemporary jewellery from Scottish jeweller Annie Smith. AFTER DARK catch underground house DJs or obscure ’70s soul at the iconic Bongo Club, in Cowgate.

URBAN TALE One of Edinburgh’s most gruesome myths comes from the time of the plague in 1645. Legend has it that the stricken inhabitants of Mary King’s Close (now the site of the City Chambers) were bricked into their houses to die and rot. Apparently when workmen eventually came to remove the bodies, rigor mortis meant limbs had to be severed in order to extricate the dead from their claustrophobic dwellings. Although this story is not true, people who lived there afterwards and who have since visited have reported sightings of grotesque ghouls and floating body parts.

A bagpiper moves through the streets during Edinburgh’s famous festival / BRENDAN HOWARD | SHUTTERSTOCK

Esfahan // Iran Iran’s masterpiece, Esfahan is a stunning, elegant city, the centre of Persian arts and culture, that showcases all of Islam’s grace and architectural sophistication.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Esfahan NICKNAME: Half the World (from the Persian rhyme, ‘Esfahan nesf-e jahan’: literally ‘Esfahan is half the world’) DATE OF BIRTH: 1587; when Shah Abbas I came to power and he set out to make Esfahan a great city ADDRESS: Iran (map 5, N6) HEIGHT: 1773m SIZE: 494 sq km POPULATION: 1.95 million ANATOMY Chahar Bagh, 5km long, is the north–south artery through the centre of town. The Zayandeh River, crisscrossed by a series of historic arched bridges, runs roughly east–west. Northeast of the river are the expansive Imam Sq and the Bazar-e Bozorg (Grand Bazaar), while to the south lies the Armenian neighbourhood of Jolfa and the high-rises of the new town. Taxis and minibuses ply the main thoroughfares of the city, and if your haggling skills are good you could negotiate a private taxi.

Esfahan’s grand Imam Sq is the second-largest town square in the world / MURCHUNDRA | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The population of Esfahan is as diverse as anywhere else in Iran. Besides Persians there are Azaris, occasional visiting Bakhtiyari nomads, a sizeable Armenian Christian community, Zoroastrians (the original monotheistic people of Persia), Afghan refugees, as well as small Jewish and Baha communities. The city’s combination of an overwhelmingly young population with a powerful religious clergy – Iran in microcosm, you might say – makes for some interesting conversations in the city’s teahouses, not to mention a complicated political future. BEST TIME The northern hemisphere spring and autumn are lovely times to be here, with temperatures neither too hot nor too cold. Summers can be fiercely hot, but generally lack the oppressiveness of temperatures along the Persian Gulf coast. From December to February, night-time minimums can drop below zero, with daytime maximums struggling to pass 10°C.

A man pays his respects at a richly ornate shrine / JEREMY WOODHOUSE/BLEND IMAGES | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Wandering around the domed expanse of the Bazaar-e Bozorg, taking tea and smoking a qalyan (water pipe) at the outdoor tables of the Qeysarieh Tea Shop looking onto Imam Sq, poring over the exhibits at the Decorative Arts Museum of Iran, heading out to the Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan to see the fire ceremonies of the Zoroastrians, strolling the banks of the Zayandeh River and fuelling up on tea in one of the teahouses under the bridges, while musing on the elaborate frescoes of the Chehel Sotun Palace. STRENGTHS • The grandeur of Imam Sq • The arts on show – calligraphy, tile making, metalwork, glassware, miniature paintings • Carpets – where better to buy a Persian carpet? • Haggling in the bazaar • Teahouses and qalyan • History at every turn • Armenian cathedrals • Architectural greatness – palaces, mosques, grand squares WEAKNESSES • Touts around Imam Sq • The hard sell in the bazaar • Scams involving impostor ‘police’ • Pollution and hectic traffic

The lantern-festooned interior of the Azadegan Teahouse / TUUL ET BRUNO MORANDI | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the colour scheme – the symphony of royal blue, sunflower yellow and emerald tiles set atop the voluptuous domes and pointed arches of Imam Sq, all beneath a peerless, cloudless Persian blue sky. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Road to Oxiana by Robert Byron • Travels in Persia by Sir John Chardin • Honeymoon in Purdah by Alison Wearing • The Siege of Isfahan by Jean-Christopher Rufin • Portrait Photographs from Isfahan: Faces in Transition by Parisa Damandan IMPORT • Armenian artisans

EXPORT • Carpets • Arts and crafts SEE the view over Imam Sq from the elevated terrace of Ali Qapu Palace. EAT dolme bademjan (stuffed eggplants) with rice, or gaz (nougat with pistachio and other chopped nuts). DRINK chay (tea) while holding a sugar lump between your teeth. DO spend time absorbing the frescoes of Chehel Sotun Palace, including the depiction of a man kissing the foot of a half-naked maiden. WATCH craftsmen hammering copper pots, painting miniatures or enamelling copperware in the bazaar. BUY a carpet or any traditional craftwork in the Grand Bazaar, but come prepared to haggle. AFTER DARK loiter over a qalyan in one of the teahouses.

URBAN TALE The great travel writer Robert Byron remarked that the ornamental lake in the centre of Imam Sq was built to prevent Bakhtiyari tribesmen from playing polo or exercising their horses there. Whether or not this is true, it’s impossible now to imagine the square without it.

Tile detail from the Shah Mosque / PATRICK HYPSCHER/EYEEM | GETTY IMAGES

Fez // Morocco Fez is the centre of Morocco’s cultural and religious life and its calls to prayer five times a day serve as a powerful reminder of this fact. But this is also a gorgeous place, and wandering here can feel like exploring your very own Moroccan fairy tale.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Fez NICKNAME: Athens of Africa DATE OF BIRTH: AD 789; founded by Idris I ADDRESS: Morocco (map 1, V11) HEIGHT: 378m SIZE: 320 sq km POPULATION: 1.12 million ANATOMY Fez is a hotchpotch of twisting streets that are so narrow you can barely raise a decent yawn and stretch. Even smaller alleys venture off the main paths and people brush against people, overloaded donkeys, household goods and bags of wheat at every turn. The medina of Fez el-Bali (Old Fez), which is separated from modern Fez (the Ville Nouvelle) by the ancient walls, is where the city’s mosques, shops, crafts, spices and souq (market) are located along some 9000 streets. It is closed to motorised vehicles, so strap up your donkey.

Tanning vats wedged into nooks and crannies in the crumbling medina / NOWAK LUKASZ | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The majority of Fassis are Sunni Muslims of Arab, Berber or mixed ArabBerber lineage. The Arab culture was established when Arabs invaded Morocco in the 7th and 11th centuries. While Arabic is the official language, Berber dialects are widely spoken and French is also seen as the language of business, government and diplomacy. In (much) earlier times, Fez was the scientific and religious centre of Morocco, where Muslims and Christians from Europe came to study. These days, Fez acts, as it always has, as a barometer of popular sentiment – Morocco’s independence movement was born here, and when there are strikes or protests, they are always at their most vociferous in Fez. But don’t let that distract – the city’s traders like nothing better than to sit down and drink tea with visitors, sometimes (but not always) with the ulterior motive of selling them a carpet. BEST TIME Late spring and early autumn are the best months, although nights can be

rather chilly. Average maximums in July and August hover in the mid-30s Celcius which can be unpleasant. Watch also for the timing of Ramadan, during which many restaurants and some shops will operate on reduced hours.

A glimpse of the old medina through an intricately decorated doorway of the Bou Inania Medrassa, the ancient university / SABINO PARENTE | 500PX

A PERFECT DAY Walking through one of the medina’s seven ancient gateways, then exploring its labyrinthine streets and crumbling grandeur before pulling up a goatleather stool and tucking into a traditional tagine. STRENGTHS • Luxurious hammams (bathhouses) • Zellij mosaics (hand-cut tiles arranged in geometric and/or abstract patterns) • Ancient doorways and walls • Fascinating, photogenic tanneries • Islamic architecture WEAKNESSES • The overwhelming smell from the tanneries – sniffing mint might settle the nerves • Mobility-impaired travellers will find it very difficult to get around • The plundering of ancient private homes for their doors and windows for exportation

The streets of Fez show off some colour / IZZET KERIBAR | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the annual World Sacred Music Festival, which celebrates music from Sufi, Andean, Sephardic, Zulu, Pakistani ghazal chants, Renaissance, baroque Christian, spiritual music and American gospel songs. Held around May, it makes a wonderful time to be in town. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Jewel of the Nile (1985) • The Last Temptation of Christ (1988) • Aziz and Itto: A Moroccan Wedding (1991) • Kundun (1997) • The Mummy (1999) • This Blinding Absence of Light by Tahar Ben Jelloun IMPORT • French language • Tunisian stone

• Henri Matisse • Eugene Delacroix EXPORT • Pottery • Cous cous • The fez (brimless felt hat) • Writer Tahar Ben Jelloun • Hash • Farsi metalwork • Architectural antiques • Babouches (pointed slippers) • Goat leather stools SEE the impressive Blue Gate marking the entrance to the medina. EAT traditional tagines, pigeon bastila (pigeon pie) and mounds of handblended cous cous. DRINK bladder-bursting amounts of atay (mint tea). DO take a panoramic tour of the city in a taxi. WATCH the day unfurl from a café in Old Fez. BUY a traditional Moroccan carpet from Hamid’s carpet shop, Aux Merveilles du Tapis. AFTER DARK be serenaded in the courtyard of La Maison Bleue before eating a sumptuous feast of local fare under superb cedar ceilings.

URBAN TALE As one of Morocco’s most traditional cities, Fez is generally regarded with a certain amount of awe, perhaps tinged with jealousy, by the rest of the country. Indeed, a disproportionate share of Morocco’s intellectual

and economic elite hail from here and it’s a widely held belief (especially among Fassis) that anyone born in Fez medina is more religious, cultured, artistic and refined than those who aren’t.

Local men rocking the steps of the Kasbah / DAVID CLAPP | GETTY IMAGES

Florence // Italy Surprisingly small as it is, this riverside city looms large on the world’s ‘must-sees’ list. Florence is the star of the Renaissance: an aesthetic feast of world-famous paintings and sculpture, stunning churches and palaces, and today’s high fashion.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Florence DATE OF BIRTH: 59 BC; Julius Caesar named his garrison town on the Arno Florentia ADDRESS: Italy (map 4, M14) HEIGHT: 50m SIZE: 103 sq km POPULATION: 383,000 ANATOMY Florence’s city centre is relatively compact. The River Arno flows through the town, with the striking dome of Florence’s Duomo (cathedral) and the centro storico (historic centre) on the northern side. The famous Ponte Vecchio crosses the river directly south of the cathedral and not far from the main square, Piazza della Signoria, and the Uffizi Gallery. On the other side of the Arno is the Oltrarno area, which is quieter and far less touristy. Walking or catching a bus is the best way to get around.

The Fountain of Neptune lords over Piazza Della Signoria / SYOLACAN | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Italians originating from Florence and other parts of Italy make up around 87% of the population, with the remainder comprised of newcomers from Romania, Albania, China and North Africa, among other areas. The vast majority of Florentines are Catholic, while Muslims, Protestants and Buddhists account for the rest. The University of Florence, with some 50,000 students, adds a young crowd to the mix. Florentines tend to lean left politically. BEST TIME April to June and September to October are sweet spots for azure skies and mild temperatures. July and August bring crowds along with some unpleasantly hot and humid weather. Off-season rates abound from November to Easter, but you’ll have to deal with chilly temperatures and rain.

The Duomo looking out to the Tuscan countryside

A PERFECT DAY Ogling Michelangelo’s David at the Galleria dell’Accademia, then ambling into the historic centre for a look at the breathtaking marble Duomo, then checking out Renaissance masterpieces at the Uffizi, before strolling over the Ponte Vecchio and enjoying a pasta and Chianti dinner around Piazza Pitti. STRENGTHS • Art everywhere you turn • Building restoration • Medieval historic centre • Bistecca alla fiorentina (Florentine steak) • Enviable fashion sense • Delicious local wine eg Chianti and Brunello • Duomo • Uffizi Gallery • Michelangelo’s David • Campanile • Ponte Vecchio • Palazzo Vecchio • Haggling at San Lorenzo market • Profusion of shoes and handbags to buy • Boboli Gardens • Superb food WEAKNESSES • Constant restoration means things are often closed • Crowds • Earthquake prone • Pigeons everywhere

Florentine bruschetta – destination food / SOFIE DELAUW | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the Renaissance – it was born in Florence and is still in evidence everywhere you look. STARRING ROLE IN… • A Room with a View (1986) • La Vita è Bella (Life is Beautiful, 1997) • Tea with Mussolini (1999) • Hannibal (2001) • Inferno (2016) • Birth of Venus by Sarah Dunant IMPORT • Raphael • Leonardo da Vinci • Michelangelo • Tourists

• Other Italians • Galileo Galilei EXPORT • Leather goods • Tuscan wines • Pecorino cheese • Olive oil • Cosimo de’ Medici • Franco Zeffirelli • Pinocchio • Machiavelli • Dante Alighieri • Filippo Brunelleschi • Gucci • Roberto Cavalli • Salvatore Ferragamo • Pucci • Furniture SEE Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation and other artistic marvels at the Uffizi (book in advance to beat the crowds). EAT devilishly good chocolate confections on the terrace of Caffè Rivoire and savour the view of the Palazzo Vecchio. DRINK a glass of Chianti Classico with the locals on Piazza Santo Spirito. DO cross the Ponte Vecchio and mosey through the quieter streets of the Oltrarno. WATCH 27-a-side football matches of the Calcio Storico at the Piazza di Santa Croce. BUY a Pucci bikini and guarantee future beach cred. AFTER DARK hit the dance scene in hip, edgy Santa Croce’s clubs.

URBAN TALE Whether or not the statue of David by Michelangelo is a self-portrait, many visitors sneer at the size of his manhood. In fact, viewers are lucky to see it at all. Prudish church authorities used to insist that nudes in art had their privates hidden, either by a judiciously painted fig leaf or by removing the area altogether – Michelangelo’s Bacchus had his bits chopped off. It’s no surprise then that some artists, such as Brunelleschi with his Crucifix, gave up representing the naughty bits altogether.

Alfresco dining on Palazzo dell’Antella / MAREMAGNUM | GETTY IMAGES

Galway // Ireland Arty, youthful, romantic and colourfully bohemian, Galway is renowned for its pleasures.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Galway NICKNAME: City of the Tribes DATE OF BIRTH: 1124; when the castle of Bun Gaillimhe was built for the King of Connacht ADDRESS: Ireland (map 4, B7) HEIGHT: 21m SIZE: 50 sq km POPULATION: 75,600 ANATOMY Galway’s tightly packed historic town centre lies on both sides of the fastflowing River Corrib, and its curved, cobbled streets run down to the busy harbour. High St is closed to traffic most of the time, so often swarms with a festive crowd. The uninspiring Eyre Sq and the bus and train stations, as well as most of the main shopping areas, are on the river’s eastern bank. To the southeast of Wolfe Tone Bridge is the historic, but now totally redeveloped, district of Claddagh; to the west is the faded beach resort of Salthill.

Soaking in the sunshine at the Spanish Arch, part of the medieval city walls / PAUL LINDSAY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Galway is often referred to as the most ‘Irish’ of Irish cities, but that has more to do with the constant buzz of traditional music and the abundance of shops selling Irish wares than the makeup of the population, which includes arrivals from virtually all over the world. There is a large percentage of students. While Galwegians today are mostly young, and often progressive or even alternative in their outlook, it remains a city where historic cultural traditions are embraced and sustained. Galwegians have a high regard for a night out, and join the large number of students and, in the summer, tourists, in the pubs, restaurants and the streets. Although it’s known as the gateway to the Gaeltacht (the Irish-speaking region), Galway has not had a solely Irishspeaking population since the 1930s. BEST TIME Galway is a year-round destination, but the city goes festival crazy in summer, when back-to-back celebrations of film, food, arts, literature and

horse racing draw visitors in their hundreds of thousands. A PERFECT DAY Up late for a big breakfast from Kai Café, then sauntering through the briny, earthy delights of the Farmers’ Market. Kicking the prom wall in Salthill and working up a hunger for a seafood feast in Oscar’s, washed down with pints of Galway Hooker and some music in the Crane, and finally making the late gig in the Róisín Dubh. STRENGTHS • Galway Arts Festival and Galway Film Fleadh • Lynch’s Castle • Traditional Irish music pubs • Taibhdhearc na Gaillimhe (the national Irish-language theatre) • Spanish Arch • Salthill Golf Course • Collegiate Church of St Nicholas of Myra • Seafood • Druid Theatre • The wild beauty of the surrounding landscape • Street life in summer • Cute painted houses WEAKNESSES • The rise of the super-pub • Prodigious rainfall • Petty crime • Race Week crowds GOLD STAR For its laid-back cool – Galway comfortably incorporates traditional and alternative lifestyles. STARRING ROLE IN… • Galway Stories edited by Lisa Frank • The Guards by Ken Bruen

• Belios by Órfhlaith Foyle IMPORT • Crusties • Spanish wine and oil in medieval times • Folk musicians • Students • Jack B Yeats (poet Yeats’ painter brother) EXPORT • Nora Barnacle, muse and wife of James Joyce • John Lynch, signatory to the US Declaration of Independence • Claddagh rings • Fast-food chain Supermacs • Connemara marble • Aran sweaters • Eamonn Ceannt and Liam Mellowes, leaders of the 1916 Easter Uprising • Pottery and porcelain • Novelist and dramatist Walter Macken • Social reformer Peter Christopher Yorke SEE Galway Bay from the beach at Salthill, after eating your fill at the Oyster Festival. EAT Cratloe Hills Gold, Irish ham and wild salmon, from Sheridans Cheesemongers. DRINK locally made Johnny Jump-Up cider at Neáchtains. DO a walk along the Corrib, past the Salmon Weir Bridge to the weir itself. WATCH buskers on Shop or Quay Sts. BUY Anna Livia Plurabelle by James Joyce at the Charlie Byrne Bookshop. AFTER DARK catch a ceilidh session at Taylor’s.

URBAN TALE Claddagh village was once Galway’s main commercial fishing centre, and had its own costume and dialect, as well as its own king. Although the thatched roofs, Irish speakers and fishing boats disappeared in the early 20th century, you’ll still see many people wearing Claddagh rings. The rings depict a crowned heart nestling between two outstretched hands; it signifies friendship (the hands), loyalty (the crown) and love (the heart). If the heart points towards the hand, the wearer is taken or married; towards the fingertip means that he or she is looking for a partner.

Local eats from old-school establishments – pastry is particularly popular / INDIA/BLUE | 500PX

George Town // Malaysia George Town, capital of Pulau Penang, is an easy-going, colourful, goodtime port city full of crumbling old shophouses, excellent food, trishaws and ancient trades that in the last decade have made it a popular tourist destination.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: George Town DATE OF BIRTH: 1786; when it was founded by British East India Company trader Captain Francis Light ADDRESS: Malaysia (map 6, J12) HEIGHT: 3.9m SIZE: 123 sq km POPULATION: 708,127 ANATOMY The old colonial district centres on Fort Cornwallis. Lebuh Pantai is the main street of the area known as ‘the city’, a financial district crammed with banks and stately buildings that once housed the colonial administration. You’ll find many of George Town’s popular cheap hotels along Lebuh Chulia in Chinatown, packed in among travel agencies and budget-priced restaurants. At the northern end of Lebuh Chulia, Jalan Penang is a main thoroughfare and a popular shopping street. A compact city, George Town can be easily navigated by foot or trishaw.

Food to go on George Town’s city streets / PETE SEAWARD | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE People of Chinese origin account for almost two-thirds of George Town’s population, while Malays, Thais, Indians and Europeans comprise the rest. Languages spoken are English, Chinese, Malay and Tamil. George Town is home to a lively mix of Buddhists, Taoists, Muslims, Christians and Hindus. The city has a long tradition of attracting adventurers, artists, intellectuals, scoundrels and dissidents, making for a spirited town ethos. BEST TIME The weather fluctuates little in George Town: that is, it’s hot and humid yearround, other than the monsoon, which is at its peak during September and October. If you’re a fan of tropical fruit, be sure to visit during the height of Penang’s summer (June and July), when durian and other fruit are at their flavourful peak. If visiting during the Chinese New Year (January/February),

be sure to book accommodation in advance.

Malaysia’s largest Buddhist temple, Kek Lok Si, sits on a terraced hillside 8km from George Town / MALAYSIAGUY | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Pulling up a stool to dip into to some of Southeast Asia’s best street food, before riding a trishaw around the colonial heart of George Town and stepping back in time at the dazzling Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion. STRENGTHS • Some of the best food in Southeast Asia • Fascinating shophouse architecture • Charming accommodation • Renovated house museums • An increasingly sophisticated eating, drinking and cafe scene • Trishaws • Street art • Chinese clanhouses • Little India WEAKNESSES • Relentlessly hot and humid weather • Minor scams • Taxis refuse to use the meter • The much-touted but mediocre beach scene at Batu Ferringhi • Lack of sidewalks • Aggressive drivers

George Town’s mid-rise skyline / SIMONLONG | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For old-school Chinese flavour – in its older neighbourhoods you could be forgiven for thinking that the clock stopped in George Town at least 50 years ago. STARRING ROLE IN… • Indochine (1992) • Paradise Road (1997) • Anna and the King (1999) • The Touch (2002) • Road to Dawn (2007) IMPORT • British East India Company • Street art – when Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic started sketching on the side of the city’s shophouses in 2012, he kick-started a movement that has virtually come to define the city • An increasingly sophisticated gallery scene • Foreign retirees

• Tourists • Japanese golfers • Chinese • Indians • Thais EXPORT • Nutmeg and mace • Durian • Fashion designer Jimmy Choo • Nonya cuisine • Computer and electronic goods SEE awesome views from the pagoda at the Kek Lok Si Temple. EAT cheap Chinese noodles, satay and popiah (rice-paper rolls) at one of the city’s numerous hawker centres DRINK an Eastern & Oriental Sling at Farquhar’s Bar, an upmarket British pub inside the E&O Hotel. DO take in the sights, sounds and exotic scents of George Town’s lively Little India. WATCH local girls throw oranges into the sea from the esplanade in the hope of finding a good husband on the 15th day of the New Year celebrations, Chap Goh Meh. BUY a unique souvenir at one of the city’s new boutiques or at the open-air Little Penang Street Market. AFTER DARK have a cocktail at one of the cool new bars popping up around town, particularly along Jalan Penang.

URBAN TALE

‘Curry Kapitan’ is a popular Penang chicken curry dish that is supposed to have been named when a Dutch sea captain asked his Indonesian mess boy what there was to eat that night. The young boy winsomely chimed ‘Curry, Kapitan!’ and it’s been on the menu ever since.

Top-notch street food like chee cheong fan (rice rolls) can be found at the hawker centres / CARLINA TETERIS | GETTY IMAGES

Glasgow // Scotland Scotland’s biggest city blends top-notch sights, shopping, eating and drinking with the legendary warmth and impenetrable accent of its inhabitants.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Glasgow NICKNAME: Glesca; Dear Green Place DATE OF BIRTH: 6th century AD; when Glasgow grew up around the cathedral founded by St Mungo ADDRESS: Scotland (map 4, E5) HEIGHT: 8m SIZE: 255 sq km Population: 983,600 ANATOMY Downtown sits on the north bank of the Clyde River; the civic centre is George Sq, which sits to the north of fashionable Merchant City, Glasgow’s hub of 19th-century commerce. Pedestrianised Buchanan St runs through the centre and is the city’s retail hub. Famous Sauchiehall St runs from here towards the University of Glasgow and the bohemian, foodie West End. Along the redeveloped Clyde are large entertainment venues and a couple of excellent museums, while the Finnieston strip north of it is a newly trendy restaurant zone. Pollok Country Park and the Burrell Collection are in the South Side, across the Clyde from the centre. Public transport options from the centre are good.

Glasgow’s mighty River Clyde / CHRIS HEPBURN | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Glasgow is easily Scotland’s most racially diverse city, though the population is overwhelmingly Caucasian. Asians make up some 7% of the population, with around 2% of African origin and a small group of Afro-Caribbeans (1%). English is the main spoken language, though the Glaswegian accent is notoriously difficult to comprehend for first-timers. BEST TIME Glasgow doesn’t have the world’s best weather, but that’s always a good excuse to park yourself in one of the legendary pubs. There’s a good scattering of festivals through the year, with June an especially lively month. May to August are generally the optimum times for a visit; when the sun shines, Glasgow smiles with it.

The shiny, spiky, science-fiction-like facade of the Riverside Museum of Transport / SCOTT RAE | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Gazing at the wonderful art on display at Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum or the Burrell Collection, strolling the surrounding parkland, then hitting the West End for lunch, browsing vintage shops or catching a football match in the afternoon, before catching a gig at one of the many excellent live venues. STRENGTHS • Glasgow Cathedral • The Glasgow School of Art • Witty locals • Legendary live-music scene • Bohemian West End shops • Football passion • Lots of parks • St Mungo’s Museum of Religious Life & Art • Burrell Collection • Sleek bars and earthy pubs • Animated LGBT scene WEAKNESSES • Dodgy weather • Often books out at weekends • Football sectarianism • Boisterous groups singing their way home from the pub • Early-closing underground railway GOLD STAR For the Arts – though Glasgow affects a rugged exterior, it’s actually a powerhouse of the arts, with top music and theatre scenes, and two standout galleries. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Shallow Grave (1994) • Trainspotting (1996) • Carla’s Song (1996) • My Name is Joe (1998) • Young Adam (2003) • Red Road (2006) • Perfect Sense (2011) • Under the Skin (2013) IMPORT • Author Daniel Defoe • Actor Ewan McGregor • Philosopher and economist Adam Smith • Footballer Henrik Larsson EXPORT • Franz Ferdinand • Teenage Fanclub • Billy Connolly • Travis and Texas • Sir Alex Ferguson • Gordon Ramsay • Gordon Brown • Robert Carlyle • Irn Bru soft drink • Angus Young and Jimmy Barnes • Robbie Coltrane • Tony Capaldi • Kenny Dalglish • Amy Macdonald SEE the architectural genius of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, best appreciated at the School of Art and Mackintosh House. EAT the best of Scottish produce in the city’s longstanding star restaurant, Ubiquitous Chip.

DRINK craft ales and malt whisky, perhaps side by side, in any of hundreds of top pubs and bars. DO stroll the grounds and woodland trails of Pollok Country Park and imagine you’re the monarch of the glen. WATCH Glasgow’s next big things at King Tut’s Wah Wah Hut, where Oasis were signed after playing. BUY a pre-loved retro classic at one of the West End’s cracking vintage shops. AFTER DARK there’s still some kick to the club scene here; head to Sub Club or ABC.

URBAN TALE The age-old rivalry between Glasgow and Edinburgh goes way back. In the late 19th century a group of Glaswegian painters took on the domineering artistic establishment of Edinburgh. Up to this point paintings were largely historic scenes and sentimental visions of the Highlands, but the Glasgow Boys (as they became known) saw the world differently, experimenting with colour and themes of contemporary rural life, shocking Edinburgh’s artistic society. Like Charles Rennie Mackintosh, the Glasgow Boys achieved success in Europe, where their work met with admiration and artistic recognition, but they were snubbed at the time in the UK.

The Gothic interior of Glasgow’s Cathedral / RUDOLF TEPFENHART | GETTY IMAGES

Gonder // Ethiopia Founded by an Ethiopian emperor, looted by Sudanese Dervishes and invaded by Mussolini, the leafy city of Gonder has many incredible stories to tell. It won’t just be the caffeine that leaves you buzzing.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Gonder DATE OF BIRTH: 1636, when Emperor Fasadas moved his capital here. ADDRESS: Ethiopia (map 1, AA14) HEIGHT: 2300m SIZE: 40 sq km POPULATION: 323,900 ANATOMY Gonder is draped over a series of low hills in the Ethiopian highlands between the Simien Mountains and Lake Tana (and its centuries-old island monasteries). Although fairly spread out, it’s a rewarding place to explore on foot. The centre of town is marked by the Italian-built piazza, which hosts shops, cafes and most traveller services. Just south of the piazza is the town’s main historical treasure, the Royal Enclosure. The road north is dotted with restaurant and hotel options.

The magnificent King’s Castle inside the Royal Enclosure which was constructed in the 17th and 18th centuries / JACK MALIPAN TRAVEL PHOTOGRAPHY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Almost 90% of Gonder’s population is made up of the Amhara, a group that has dominated Ethiopia’s history, politics and society since 1270. As they are devoutly Christian it’s not surprising that a similar percentage practices Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. Around 12% of the citizens are Muslim. BEST TIME In the dry season (October to April) daily highs are pleasant, gradually climbing from 26°C to 30°C. Timing your visit for the celebration of Timkat (January 19 or 20) is a great option. A PERFECT DAY With a piping hot espresso swimming in your stomach, strolling through the piazza to the gates of the Royal Enclosure. Once inside, exploring the sprawling site’s numerous castles and palaces, even climbing a watchtower or

two. After lunch wandering down to Fasiladas’ Bath, where you’ll be imagining emperors of the past floating with goat-skin lifejackets. Finish the afternoon by admiring the frescoed ceiling of Debre Berhan Selassi, before toasting the setting sun from the lofty garden terrace of the Goha Hotel. STRENGTHS • 17th-century castles and palaces • Frescoes within churches and palaces • Royal compounds • Ethiopian Orthodox celebrations • Ethiopian hospitality • Open-air market • Close proximity to the Simien Mountains (trekking, wildlife watching) • Great coffee • Eminently walkable • Affordable accommodation and food • Mountain and valley views • Fascinating history WEAKNESSES • Needing to negotiate hard when hiring a taxi • The low standard of some budget accommodation • Unlicensed people passing themselves off as guides GOLD STAR For the remarkable castles and royal palaces with the Royal Enclosure, complete with crenulated parapets, domed towers and cavernous banquet halls. STARRING ROLE IN… • Gondar, by Nicholas Luard – a story of fact and fiction that relates to the struggle for control in the Abyssinian Empire during the 19th century. IMPORT • Ethiopian emperors • 65,000 Ethiopians by 1667

• 17th-century gilded Venetian mirrors and chairs • Abyssinian lions • James Bruce, an 18th-century Scottish travel writer • Sudanese Dervishes • Italian soldiers in 1935 • Espresso machines • British bombs in 1941 • Unesco World Heritage status EXPORT • All foreigners in 1636 • Gold • Ivory • Slaves • Italian guerrillas in 1943 • Beta Israel (Ethiopian Jews, aka Falashas), most of whom were airlifted to Israel in the 1980s • Stories of castles and Africa’s ‘Camelot’ • Director Haile Gerima SEE the intriguing fusion of Aksumite, Indian, Portuguese and Moorish architectural influences in Fasiladas’ Palace, the oldest and most impressive castle with the Royal Enclosure. EAT sizzling zilzil tibs (fried beef in awazi sauce), punchy doro wat (chicken with onions, hardboiled egg, chilli, cardamom and berbere spice) and cleansing gomen (minced spinach), all piled neatly atop injera (Ethiopian pancake). DRINK a perfect macchiato in the atmospheric confines of an Italian Art Deco café. DO hire one of the knowledgeable, well-trained guides to truly grasp the remarkable history of the city. WATCH white-robed faithful fill the streets and churches in processions

before surrounding (and jumping into) Fasiladas’ Bath during Timkat (the celebration of Epiphany, or Christ’s baptism). BUY fine pottery, basketry and Amhara weaving from Project Ploughshare Women’s Crafts Training Center, which helps disadvantaged women rekindle lost traditions. AFTER DARK venture into Elita where traditional Amharic music and dance is on stage every night from 7pm.

URBAN TALE Gonder’s two-century reign as the Ethiopian empire’s capital was at times as deadly as it was lavish, with intrigue and assassinations occasionally the order of the day. Those involved in the conspiracies ranged from nobles and clergy to royal bodyguards and common citizens.

Coffee served Amhara-style / KEREN SU | GETTY IMAGES

Granada // Spain The most romantically fabled of Spanish cities, Granada enchants with both its medieval Moorish beauty and its buzzing contemporary bar, restaurant, cultural and student scenes.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Granada DATE OF BIRTH: Early 11th century AD; when the area’s Berber ruler Zawi ibn Ziri relocated from Elvira, a few kilometres northwest of modern Granada ADDRESS: Spain (map 4, E19) HEIGHT: 680m SIZE: 20 sq km POPULATION: 231,000 ANATOMY Closer to Morocco’s Tangier than to Spain’s capital Madrid, Granada is a unique tapestry of atmospheric streets and masterful architectural feats. Two hills on the northeast side comprise its most historic parts. The famous Alhambra fortress-palace, jewel of Spain’s medieval Moorish culture, lords it on top of one of the hills. To its west, across the narrow valley of the Río Darro, rises the picturesque old Albayzín district on the second hill. The modern city centre sits below, to the south of the Albayzín. Rectangular Plaza Nueva, in the Darro valley, forms the main nexus between the Alhambra, Albayzín and modern centre. The bus station (northwest) and train station (west) are out of the centre but linked to it by plenty of buses.

The Generalife has some of the best-preserved Moorish gardens in the world / YURIY BIRYUKOV | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Granada is a vibrant mix of Spaniards, tourists from around the world, and immigrants arrived in the last couple of decades – most visibly Moroccans, who form the core of a several-thousand-strong Muslim community. Granada University has around 70,000 students including several thousand foreign exchange students each year. The Spanish population includes a good number of Roma, the lifeblood of a thriving flamenco scene. Roman Catholic tradition remains strong, most visibly in festivals such as Semana Santa (Easter Week). Spanish is naturally the main language but many people in tourism-related work speak decent English. BEST TIME April to mid-June and September and October provide the balmiest weather though these are also among the months with the highest tourist numbers flocking to the city. For thinner crowds and lower accommodation prices, go between November and March, but be ready for surprisingly cold

temperatures from December to February.

The Alhambra viewed from the Albaicin / PETE SEAWARD | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Immersing yourself in the unique beauty of the Alhambra, the famed Moorish fortress-palace complex built between the 11th and 14th centuries, and exploring the atmospheric Albayzín, a labyrinth of narrow streets, walled mansions and panoramic plazas, where the lilt of flamenco music may be heard around any corner. STRENGTHS • Atmosphere of long-gone centuries from a fascinating, colourful history • Compact and walkable • The Alhambra’s Palacios Nazaríes (Nasrid Palaces), dubbed the finest Islamic building complex in Europe • The Moorish gardens of the Palacio de Generalife • Youthful university-town vibe • Free tapas with drinks in bars • Busy flamenco scene • Traffic-free historic areas • Street art and bohemian bars WEAKNESSES • Near-impossible vehicle access to many hotels in the older areas • Bag-snatchers and wallet-lifters at some tourist sites, most notoriously the Mirador San Nicolás • Necessity of booking ahead for the Alhambra and accommodation from April to October

The neighbourhood of Sacromonte affords great views of the Alhambra / JAVI_INDY | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For providing a taste of North Africa in the Albayzín’s Arabic-style teahouses, especially on Calle Calderería Nueva. STARRING ROLE IN… • Time Bandits (1981) • Cannibal (2013) • Tales of the Alhambra by Washington Irving • Duende by Jason Webster • The Assassination of Federico García Lorca by Ian Gibson IMPORT • Students • Arabic style • Falafels in pitta

EXPORT • Jamón serrano (cured ham) • Granadino crafts: taracea (marquetry), pottery, hand-painted azulejos (decorative glazed tiles) • Hand-crafted guitars • Flamenco dance, music and recordings • Mantoncillos (flamenco shawls) • Federico García Lorca’s plays SEE the Capilla Real, Granada’s outstanding ode to late-Gothic splendor, where the monarchs Isabel and Fernando lie buried. EAT succulent, artfully presented meats and seafood at refined La Fábula. DRINK regional Alpujarras wines – or if you dare, a calicasas (a concoction of seven different alcoholic ingredients) – at the classic tavern Bodegas Castañeda. DO pamper yourself with a two-hour session at the romantic Arab-style baths Hammam Al Ándalus. WATCH flamenco at Peña La Platería, a genuine aficionados’ club in an Albayzín warren. BUY some taracea (intricate marquetry work) on boxes, tables, chess sets and frames. AFTER DARK tour a few bars (enjoying free tapas) then head up to El Camborio, a cave nightclub in Sacromonte district with remarkable views of the Alhambra at dawn!

URBAN TALE Washington Irving recorded many myths, observations and historical titbits in his 1832 book Tales of the Alhambra. Many of them concern the treasure of the Moors, which the Spanish, fascinated and not a little awed

by their city’s erstwhile inhabitants, believed must be buried there. One legend about the Gate of Justice, which has a hand inscribed on one side and a key on the other, states that when the hand reaches the key, the Alhambra will fall to ruins.

Renaissance arches surround the courtyard of the Palacio de Carlos in the Alhambra / MARQUES | SHUTTERSTOCK

Hamburg // Germany Hamburg is Germany’s media capital and home to Europe’s second-busiest port. It’s an economically and culturally prosperous city with a vibrant music scene and a population buoyed by an optimistic outlook.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Hamburg NICKNAME: Gateway to the World DATE OF BIRTH: AD 808; a moated fortress called Hammaburg was constructed under Charlemagne in what is today the city centre ADDRESS: Germany (map 4, L7) HEIGHT: 22m SIZE: 755 sq km POPULATION: 1.79 million ANATOMY Hamburg is a sprawling city shaped by water with more bridges than Venice and Amsterdam combined (over 2300). It is set around two central lakes, the Binnenalster and the Aussenalster (Inner and Outer Alster), and traversed by three rivers – the Elbe, the Alster and the Bille – as well as a grid of narrow canals called Fleete. The most interesting neighbourhoods lie just outside the city centre, including the entertainment quarter of St Pauli to the west, the boho-chic Schanzenviertel to the northwest and the postmodern HafenCity to the southeast. HVV operates buses, ferries, U-Bahn and S-Bahn and has several info centres, including at the Jungfernstieg S-/U-Bahn station, and the Hauptbahnhof.

Harbourside bar Strandpauli draws a lively early evening crowd / JONATHAN STOKES | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Thanks to its maritime history, Hamburg’s residents tend to be liberal, openminded, secular and cosmopolitan. Immigrants make up around 15% of the population, with most hailing from Turkey, Poland and Afghanistan. About 30% of the population is Lutheran, 10% Catholic, 8% Muslim and less than 1% Jewish. German is the main language, although English is widely spoken. BEST TIME Hamburg shows off its most appealing side between May and September. That’s when blue skies are most likely, you can sit in an outdoor café in daylight until 10pm, and loads of festivals are on the calendar. Winters can be brutal weather-wise but the payoffs are lower room rates, short queues at attractions and a busy music and theatre schedule.

The state of the art Elbphilharmonie concert complex / JOCHEN TACK | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Strolling bleary-eyed through the early-morning scene of the raucous Fischmarkt while munching a fish sandwich, balancing a beer and listening to the market criers hawking everything from smoked fish to potted plants at full volume, then moving into the adjacent, historic fish auction hall to sway to and fro with locals to old German pop songs cranked out by live cover bands. STRENGTHS • High quality of life • Drinking holes around virtually every corner • Lots of green and waterfront areas for relaxing • Efficient public transport • Fischmarkt • Cruises around the port • Great music scene • Historic buildings and churches • The ‘Art Mile’ (string of art galleries and museums) • Cool local designer fashions • Great café culture • Flat landscape (good for cycling) • German beer • International cuisine • The alternative scene in Schanzenviertel and Karolinenviertel neighbourhoods • Hamburger Dom festival WEAKNESSES • High cost of living • Confusing train timetables • Long, dark and cold winters • Locals can be a bit reserved • Some sleaziness in parts of the Reeperbahn, the Hauptbahnhof and St Georg

Hamburg’s grand City Hall, a hive of government activity / MIKHAIL MARKOVSKIY | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For being entertainment central – whether you are up for clubbing, barhopping, live music or a refined night at the opera, there are heaps of options…and you’re rarely more than a five-minute walk from a bar or pub in Hamburg. STARRING ROLE IN… • Mirador (1978) • Tomorrow Never Dies (1997) • Bella Marta (Mostly Martha, 2002) • Gegen die Wand (Head-On, 2004) • Soul Kitchen (2009) IMPORT • The Beatles (for a time)

• Chain restaurants • Fuel • Fruit and vegetables • Building materials • Electronics EXPORT • The music of Felix Mendelssohn-Bartholdy • The music of Johannes Brahms • Angela Merkel • The discovery of electromagnetic waves by Heinrich Hertz • Biotechnology • Self-adhesive bandages • Inflatable arm floats • Shipbuilding and aircrafts • Steinway pianos • Nivea beauty products • Montblanc fountain pen • Holsten pilsener • Print media and publishing • Karl Lagerfeld SEE sublime canvases from the Renaissance to today at the Hamburger Kunsthalle, one of Germany’s most renowned art museums. EAT a delicious meal of fresh fish or seafood in a cosy restaurant in Hamburg’s charismatic Portuguese quarter just inland from the harbour. DRINK coffee or cocktails in a beach bar along the Elbe River while counting the container ships floating by. DO catch a classical concert at the spectacular new Elbphilharmonie. WATCH the stunning dancing fountain amid the floral bonanza of the Planten un Blomen urban park. BUY a fish sandwich and a beer at the boisterous Sunday morning

Fischmarkt. AFTER DARK check out the vibrant live music clubs in St Pauli.

URBAN TALE Before they took the world by storm, the Beatles honed their musicianship and stage performances in Hamburg. First playing at the Indra Club in 1960, over the next two years the Fab Four put in around 800 hours of live performance at the Kaiserkeller, the Top Ten and the Star Club. As John Lennon famously said, ‘I was born in Liverpool, but I grew up in Hamburg.’

A taster board of local beers from one of Hamburg’s many brewpubs / JONATHAN STOKES | LONELY PLANET

Hangzhou // China Imagine the misty lakes, towering pagodas, elegant gardens and green hills of a classical Chinese watercolour painting and you’re picturing Hangzhou’s West Lake.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Hangzhou NICKNAME: Paradise on Earth DATE OF BIRTH: AD 589; Hangzhou was established as the seat of the province, making it one of the Seven Ancient Capitals of China ADDRESS: China (map 6, O4) HEIGHT: 12m SIZE: 4899 sq km POPULATION: 7 million ANATOMY Hangzhou’s focal point is the West Lake, which is surrounded by idyllic gardens, walkways and plenty of cafes at dreamy vantage points. Busy shopping streets feed out from the east of the lake, while lush green hills, perfect for hiking, lie to the north. The whole city is dotted with beautifully maintained gardens and parks as well as bustling street food and market zones. Leifeng Pagoda and Jingci Temple, two of the city’s loveliest sights, sit opposite each other to the south of the lake. Hangzhou is a fabulous place to stroll, but if you’re trying to cover a lot of ground, your best bet is to sign up for the city’s well-run and cheap bike rental scheme, Hangzhou Public Bicycle.

The shiny, space age cityscape of Hangzou is softened by expansive green spaces / ZHU DIFENG | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Hangzhou is one of China’s wealthiest cities and as a result, the fashionable, sophisticated residents have increasingly international tastes. Designer stores and Starbucks outlets are highly popular and there’s even a solid craft-beer scene developing. That said, heritage is still very important here: early morning tai-chi is a regular fixture around the West Lake, local delicacies are readily available and the city’s historic architecture is well-cared for and celebrated. The Hanzhounese are 99% Han Chinese ethnicity and speak both Mandarin and Hangzhou dialect. BEST TIME The West Lake has its charms any time of year, but generally the best times

to visit Hangzhou are in the northern hemisphere spring and autumn, when the weather is fresh and comfortable. Make every effort to avoid public holidays as accommodation costs soar and the crowds are intense. A PERFECT DAY First thing in the morning, strolling around the banks of the West Lake to sigh over the views before the crowds arrive, and catching one of the boats to visit the small islands at its centre. Midday lunch of West Lake carp or Dongpo pork at a local restaurant, then strolling in the hills, climbing the Leifeng Pagoda or visiting the Jingci Temple in the afternoon. For dinner, heading to one of the city’s famous food streets for all manner of spicy fried food on sticks, washed down with frothy local draught beer. STRENGTHS • West Lake scenery • Street food • Leifeng Pagoda • Jingci Temple • Bike-sharing • Buddhist carvings at Lingyin Temple • Historic Chinese medicine shops • Beautiful gardens • Buzzing nightlife WEAKNESSES • Intense traffic around the lake and downtown makes getting around difficult • During public holidays the crowds here have to be seen to be believed • Prices are high compared to other parts of China GOLD STAR For keeping the streets of a sprawling city that’s often packed with tourists absolutely pristine. STARRING ROLE IN… • Switch (2013) • Hotel Deluxe (2013)

• The famous bamboo forests where Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon (2000) was filmed are just an hour’s drive from Hangzhou IMPORT • International designer brands • Coffee shops • Craft beer EXPORT • Tech billionaire Jack Ma • Longjng green tea • Hangzhou silk SEE the West Lake at sunset, when the sky and the water turn a soft pinkyorange, the last boats are drifting to the banks and the silhouette of the towering Leifeng Pagoda is all the more dramatic: an unforgettable sight. EAT beggar’s chicken, mouth-wateringly tender from being wrapped in lotus leaves and coated in clay before being roasted; it’s often served from street food stalls, but you’ll find it on restaurant menus too. DRINK China’s finest green tea on a café terrace in nearby Longjing (Dragon Well) village, as you gaze out over the tea fields. DO climb to the top of the five-storey Leifeng Pagoda for dizzying views across the city (there are elevators and escalators to take you part of the way up). WATCH ‘Impressions West Lake’, a music, light and dance show staged on the lake after dark, which cleverly makes the water a feature of the performance. BUY scarves, nightwear and qipao made of silk, one of the products Hangzhou has long been famous for, at the silk market. AFTER DARK Head to JZ Club, a stalwart of Hangzhou nightlife with great jazz bands, wine, cocktails and plenty of atmosphere.

URBAN TALE Venetian explorer Marco Polo was one of the first Westerners ever to visit Hangzhou. Arriving in the late 13th century, he was so dazzled by it, he recorded that ‘the city is beyond dispute the finest and noblest in the world’.

A twinkling ancient pavilion sits pretty on the edge of the West Lake / ZHAO JIAN KANG | SHUTTERSTOCK

Hanoi // Vietnam Hanoi’s beguiling boulevards, belle époque architecture and peaceful parks and pagodas are enough to recommend it, but there’s also the bonus of vibrant, optimistic people and fantastic food.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Hanoi DATE OF BIRTH: 1010; when it was transferred from the mountains to its present location ADDRESS: Vietnam (map 6, K7) HEIGHT: 16m SIZE: 2146 sq km POPULATION: 7.5 million ANATOMY Hanoi sprawls along the Red River (Song Hong). The city is divided into seven central districts (quan), surrounded by outlying neighbourhoods called huyen. Peaceful Hoan Kiem Lake lies between the imploding maze of the Old Quarter in the north, and the architecturally elegant Ba Dinh district (French Quarter) to the south. Go west for the monument-strewn former Imperial City, or north to the lovely West Lake. Here two wheels are better than four: motortaxi, bicycle and cyclo (pedicab) beat the buses every time.

City life buzzes around central Hoan Kiem Lake and the crumbling three-tiered Turtle Tower / MINHHUE | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Ethnic Vietnamese (kihn) dominate Hanoi, though there are a small number of ethnic minorities from around Vietnam. Second languages reflect a historical chronology: those under 30 (almost three-quarters of the population) speak English, the middle-aged may have a little Russian and German and the elderly are often fluent in French. BEST TIME Cool, dry weather is the norm in November and December, when temperatures hover between 18°C and 24°C. If you want to escape the heat, come in January, Hanoi’s coolest month, with an average of 17°C (63°F). If you don’t mind a little rain, come in September and October when the heaviest is (usually, but not always) over but accommodation is still cheaper and crowds are thinner.

Tran Quoc Pagoda is Hanoi’s oldest buddhist temple / MARTINHO SMART | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY After some early-morning t’ai chi at Hoan Kiem Lake, watching merchants setting up their stalls, then heading off to the flower market to buy blooms, followed by pho (beef-noodle soup) for lunch, and lingering with a coffee to watch life bustle past the French colonial buildings. STRENGTHS • Youthful, hip energy • Long Bien Bridge • Temple of Literature • Communist monuments – drab and spectacular in turns • City lights reflecting on Hoan Kiem Lake • Banh cuon (steamed rice crepes filled with minced pork, mushrooms and shrimp) • Hotel Metropole and other French colonial architecture • Tree-lined boulevards • Ga tan (stewed chicken with medicinal herbs, dates and grilled baguettes)

• Wacky water puppets • Coffee – strong, sweet and sometimes with modern twists • Tight-knit sense of community • Dining in converted old buildings WEAKNESSES • Bureaucracy • Low-key nightlife • Overcrowding • Over-the-top architectural styles of new developments GOLD STAR For its bustling authentic retail landscape – the 36 streets of the Old Quarter are each named after different shopping needs; they reveal hundreds of years of history and Hanoi’s true heart. STARRING ROLE IN… • Marché à Hanoi (1903) • Vertical Ray of the Sun (2000) • The Quiet American (2002) • Daughter from Danang (2002) • Cages (2014) • Blowing in the Winds of Vietnam (2015) IMPORT • Architecture: French and Soviet • Korean fashion, desserts, K-pop • Buddhism • Picasso-era modernism • Russian salads • Catholicism • Chinese motorbikes • French food legacies: pastry, baguettes, crème caramel and yoghurt • Confucianism • High-tech status symbols

EXPORT • Stone carving • Silk • Water puppets • Pho-culture • Viettel mobile • Coffee franchises • Alexandre de Rhodes’ quoc ngu script for the Vietnamese language (developed here) SEE the t’ai chi practice at Hoan Kiem Lake at dawn. EAT fried squid with dill, tofu with tomatoes and grilled chicken at a bia hoi (beer tavern) in the Old Quarter. DRINK fiery shots of xeo (rice wine) at a branch of old favourite Highway 4. DO play an energetic game of badminton in Lenin Park. WATCH a water-puppet show opposite Hoan Kiem Lake. BUY bolts of silk or order bespoke shirts along Pho Hang Gai. AFTER DARK catch a Vietnamese pop star performing at the Hanoi Opera House then go for a motorbike ride around West Lake.

URBAN TALE Hoan Kiem, the name of Hanoi’s enchanting lake, means ‘the returned sword’. Legend has it that the 15th-century king, Le Loi, had a magical sword that proved invaluable in driving back the Chinese. One day as he was boating on the lake, a giant turtle rose from the depths and seized the sword, vowing to return it to the gods. A turtle that was found and preserved in the 1970s is thought to be more than 500 years old, making it old enough to be the turtle of the legend. The last giant turtle of the lake died in 2016, spooking many Hanoians who saw the near-extinct

species as a symbol of national independence.

A young man sells iced tea from his streetside cafe / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Havana // Cuba No one could have invented Havana. It’s too audacious, too contradictory and – despite 60 years of neglect – too unfathomably beautiful. Arrive with an open mind and prepare yourself for a long, slow seduction.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Havana DATE OF BIRTH: 1514; when the port of San Cristóbal de la Havana was founded by Diego Velázquez ADDRESS: Cuba (map 4, I2) HEIGHT: 24m SIZE: 740 sq km POPULATION: 2.1 million ANATOMY The city faces the Straits of Florida with its vast seafront, the legendary Malecón, which is one of the most impressive in the world despite the crumbling colonial buildings, peeling paint and general sense of neglect. The centre of the city is divided up into La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), a Unesco World Heritage site and the best-preserved Spanish colonial town in the Americas, residential Centro Habana, and Vedado, the modern city and seat of most major government ministries to the west. Buses, taxis and your own two feet are the best ways of getting around.

Join the laidback crowds enjoying the views and vibe of the Malecón / PHILIP LEE HARVEY | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Havana is almost entirely populated by Cubans, with a small business and diplomatic community. Sixty percent of citizens are of Spanish descent, 22% are of mixed race, 11% of African descent and 1% Chinese. There is little ethnic tension and relatively good racial integration. Forty-seven percent of Cubans are nominally Catholic, although many also practice Santería, an intermingling of Catholic and African animist beliefs. Spanish is the official language. BEST TIME Avoid heat and hurricanes! The best time to visit Havana is between midNovember and late March when temperatures and humidity are more bearable and rain is less prevalent. Mid-December welcomes two of Havana’s finest festivals – the annual jazz festival and the seminal Latin American film festival. A PERFECT DAY Strolling along the Malecón sea-drive at sunset passing cavorting couples, wistful Florida-gazers, wandering troubadours, wrinkly-faced fishers, earlyevening party goers, street poets, Che Guevara’s look-alikes and tourists with Hemingway beards. STRENGTHS • Extraordinarily friendly and fun-loving locals • Some of the most mind-blowingly eclectic architecture in the Americas • Free live music played by talented musicians almost everywhere • A creative and rapidly improving culinary scene in the process of rediscovering its roots • The atmosphere and views of the Malecón • The Afro-Cuban culture of Callejón de Hamel • Necrópolis Cristóbal Colón • Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña • Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

WEAKNESSES • Reams of socialistic bureaucracy • Lacklustre mid-range government-run hotels • Threadbare infrastructure in many of the city’s inner and outer neighborhoods • Limited internet access GOLD STAR For the ongoing restoration of La Habana Vieja, a Unesco World Heritage site and a joy to walk round day or night. Rarely in the field of architectural preservation has so much been achieved by so many with so few resources. STARRING ROLE IN… • Soy Cuba (1964) • Fresa y Chocolate (1994) • The Buena Vista Social Club (1999) • Suite Habana (2003) IMPORT • Tourists • Music lovers • Cigar aficionados • 1950s American Cars • Che Guevara EXPORT • Che Guevara • Guayabera shirts • The world’s best cigars • The daiquiri • Major League baseball players SEE Habana Vieja’s four perfectly preserved colonial squares, each loaded with its own swashbuckling history and humming with a unique Cuban atmosphere.

EAT ice cream at the famous Coppelia Ice Cream parlour for the true Habanero experience. DRINK a cool, minty mojito cocktail on the outdoor terrace of the fabulous Neoclassical Hotel Nacional overlooking the Malecón seawall. DO venture over to the Callejón de Hamel for street art, live rumba drumming and a chance to unlock some of the secrets of Cuban religions of African origin. WATCH the busy street life of Centro Habana that goes on despite tourism, inclement weather and the distractions of the internet age. BUY a piece of art from one of the many talented painters and sculptors who keep workshops in the tight grid of Habana Vieja. AFTER DARK head over to one of Cuba’s excellent jazz clubs or cabaret shows in Vedado and Playa.

URBAN TALE Havana was originally founded in 1514 as San Cristóbal de La Habana on the south coast of Cuba around 50km from its present site by Spanish conquistador Pánfilo de Narváez. Named after the daughter of a famous Taíno chief, the city was moved twice during its first five years due to mosquito infestations and wasn’t permanently established on its present location until December 17, 1519. According to local legend, the first Mass was said beneath a ceiba tree in present-day Plaza de Armas.

Cuba’s national heroes as street art stars / THE VISUAL EXPLORER | SHUTTERSTOCK

Heidelberg // Germany Germany’s oldest university town oozes dreamy charm with a pretty baroque old town hemmed in by the Neckar River and lorded over by a romantic, partly ruined castle. Heidelberg’s rich literary pedigree and thriving contemporary scene prompted Unesco to name it a ‘City of Literature’ in 2014.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Heidelberg DATE OF BIRTH: AD 765; when settlers came to the area ADDRESS: Germany (map 4, L10) HEIGHT: 110m SIZE: 109 sq km POPULATION: 156,267 ANATOMY Heidelberg’s defining geographic feature is the Neckar River, which is spanned by the much-photographed Alte-Brücke, an arched stone bridge, and the modern Theodor-Heuss-Brücke. South of the river lies the evocative Altstadt (old town), whose main street, the 1600m-long pedestrianised Hauptstrasse, runs from Bismarckplatz (the old town’s centre) via Markt (the market square) to Karlstor. Dominating the old town from a hilltop to the southeast is the fairy-tale Schloss (castle). Public transport consists of buses and trams.

The grand ruins of Heidelberg Castle overlook the Neckar River / WESTEND61 | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Heidelberg is a student town. One in five residents is registered at its vaunted university, including 18% international students. About 30,250 of Heidelberg’s residents are not German nationals. The city receives nearly 12 million day trippers and overnight guests every year, mostly from the USA, Japan, China, the UK and other European countries. Heidelberg is one of Germany’s great centres of intellectual study, so the fact that its inhabitants are largely well educated and cultured will hardly come as a surprise. BEST TIME Heidelberg is busy year-round, but most travellers arrive between May and September when sunny skies and warm temperatures are most likely. In December, the old buildings and squares of the Altstadt create an especially enchanting setting for the city’s Christmas market.

Hercules strikes a pose in Heidelberg’s Marketplatz / OLEG SENKOV | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Taking the funicular up to the Schloss and admiring the city from up high, then descending back down into the old town, crossing the Alte-Brücke and enjoying more awesome views from the north bank back to the Schloss, the bridge and the old town from the 2.5km-long Philosophenweg trail. Bring a book and a beer and simply take in the dazzling scenery. The most evocative (and photogenic) time to visit is at sunset. STRENGTHS • Neckar River • Schloss • Ruprecht-Karl-Universität (Heidelberg University) • Alte-Brücke • Heiliggeistkirche • Architectural unity (due to a total rebuild in the 18th century after invading French troops under Louis XIV devastated the city) • Views from Philosophenweg • Lively student flair • Bustling and cosy pubs • Excellent beer • Friendly locals • Heidelberger Herbst, the massive autumn festival • Christmas market • Fireworks festivals WEAKNESSES • Expensive and elusive accommodation • Dull modern part of the city to the west (well, it can’t all be gorgeous) • Dearth of cheap eating options • Many shops close early and credit cards are not widely accepted

Shop, eat, drink, repeat on Haspelgasse in the city centre / WWW.VICTORIAWLAKA.COM | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For intellectual charm: Heidelberg is the thinking person’s crumpet. STARRING ROLE IN… • Heidelberger Romanze (A Heidelberg Romance, 1951) • The Student Prince (1954) • The Girl on a Motorcycle (1968) • Morris from America (2016) • A Tramp Abroad by Mark Twain • Heidelberg: Sunset painting by William Turner IMPORT • 19th-century romantics like Turner and Goethe • Mark Twain • Louis Armstrong • Tourists

• International students • Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel • Joseph von Eichendorff • Clemens Brentano • Bettina von Arnim • Max Weber EXPORT • Robert Bunsen and the Bunsen burner • Educated people • Printing • Actor Michael Fassbender • Actor Ian Harding • Musician Jackson Browne SEE the crumbling magic of the Schloss, one of Germany’s finest Renaissance castles, and survey the town in a regal manner. EAT ‘student kisses’ (chocolate-covered wafers) at Café Knösel. DRINK delicious craft beer at the KulturBrauerei gastropub. DO take a German-language course at Heidelberg University and enjoy being part of the city’s academic tradition. WATCH kaleidoscopic snap, crackle and pops at the triannual fireworks and castle illumination. BUY a ticket for a castle-spotting boat trip through the Neckar Valley. AFTER DARK follow in the tradition of John Wayne, Mark Twain, Marilyn Monroe and other merrymakers at the much-revered student tavern Zum Roten Ochsen.

URBAN TALE

Heidelberg is rife with wonderful myths and legends. When visiting the Schloss, note the cracked iron knocker affixed to the wooden entrance door of the gate tower. The story goes that the local prince put out the challenge that whoever succeeded at biting through the ring would become the new owner of the castle. An itinerant witch tried her luck but only managed a small nick before losing her last tooth.

Drawing wine straight from the barrel during Heidelberger Herbst / CHIREAU | SHUTTERSTOCK

Helsinki // Finland Harbourside Helsinki melds graciously into the Baltic; half of the city seems liquid. Though Helsinki can seem like a younger sibling to other Scandinavian capitals, it’s the one that went to art school, scorns pop music and works in a cutting-edge studio.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Helsinki NICKNAME: Daughter of the Baltic; White City of the North DATE OF BIRTH: 1550; when it was founded by Swedish king Gustav Vasa ADDRESS: Finland (map 4, T1) HEIGHT: 20m SIZE: 185 sq km POPULATION: 628,200 ANATOMY Helsinki is built on a peninsula, with links by bridge and ferry to nearby islands. The city centre is built around the main harbor, with the kauppatori (market square) on the waterfront. Further inland, but still within walking distance, are the bus and train stations. Many of the major sights are clustered in the area north and west of the kauppatori.

The harbourside Market Sq is a hive of activity; especially during the summer months / SCANRAIL1 | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Most people from Helsinki speak Finnish as their mother tongue, though there’s a sizeable population of Swedish-speaking Finns. While some Finns look stereotypically Scandinavian, with blonde hair and blue eyes, many are darker than your average Swede or Dane. Recent immigrants include people from the Baltic States and Russia as well as refugees from Somalia and Iraq. BEST TIME Go in summer for long, long daylight hours, convivial beer and cafe terraces, festivals and optimism, though many Finns take off to their summer cottages for late June and early July. Christmas is a festive time to be here, but for real winter, come in January or February, when the snow is settled.

Coffee to go from one the many round coffee booths dotted throughout Kaisaniemi Park / SIMON BAJADA | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Strolling around imposing Senate Sq and taking in the scene from the steps of the Lutheran Cathedral, before wandering through the fabulous harbourside market hall (kauppahalli). Buying picnic fare there and taking a ferry out to the fortress island of Suomenlinna to eat it. Hanging around to watch the incoming Baltic ferries pass, then heading back to town and straight to the Kotiharjun Sauna for a traditional sweaty experience. In the evening, dining on new Finnish wizardry at Olo or catching a band at grungy Tavastia. STRENGTHS • Cutting-edge design shops • Top-notch island restaurants • Abundant galleries • The water all around • Saunas – anywhere, anytime • Fascinating museums such as Kiasma and the Ateneum • Widespread tram system, great for sightseeing • The Temppeliaukio Church • Ice hockey • Shots of liquorice vodka • Diverse architecture • Easy cycling on flat paths • Helsinki’s proximity to Tallinn • Bustling market halls • Vibrant cafe culture • Excellent nightlife • Crayfish parties WEAKNESSES • The flagfall in a taxi – ouch! • Bottleshops closed on Sundays • Chilly winters • Hotels book up fast

A brightly coloured wooden sauna cabin pokes out from the treeline at the water’s edge / RYHOR BRUYEU | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For Suomenlinna Island, where you can ramble around the ruins of its mighty fortress and discover Finland’s heritage at the Seurasaari Open-Air Museum. STARRING ROLE IN… • Billion Dollar Brain (1967) • Born American (1986) • Night on Earth (1991) • Spy Games (1999) • Kites over Helsinki (2001) • The Man Without a Past (2002) • Steam of Life (2010) • The Punk Syndrome (2012) IMPORT • Coffee…Finns are the world’s biggest consumers per capita

• Russian architecture • Samsung phones…poor old Nokia • Cheap booze on the ferry from Estonia • Cacao – Finnish chocolate is an icon EXPORT • Standout Finnish design • Finlandia vodka • Heavy metal bands HIM, Apocalyptica, Children of Bodom and the 69 Eyes – horns up! • Aki Kaurismäki films • Salty liquorice • Formula One driver Kimi Räikkönen • Hockey legend Teemu Selänne • The Rasmus • Tove Jansson’s Moomin books • The music of composer Jean Sibelius • Classical musicians from the Sibelius Academy • Designer Eero Sarinen • The Kalevala, Finland’s national epic mythology SEE the city from a different perspective by taking a ferry around its outlying islands. EAT sautéed reindeer and Baltic herring. DRINK vodka mixed with cranberry, or a post-sauna beer. DO explore the great network of bike paths. WATCH and listen to gospel and classical concerts at the underground Temppeliaukio Church. BUY the latest trends in new Finnish design from the edgy boutiques of Punavuori. AFTER DARK bar-hop around central Helsinki’s many terraces, bars and

clubs.

URBAN TALE On Wednesday nights restaurants are busy, music is playing at all the nightspots, the bars are full – Helsinki-ites are celebrating pikku lauantai (little Saturday).

Shoppers look over the local produce at a counter in the Old Market Hall / TELIA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Hiroshima // Japan Leafy Hiroshima is far from the depressing place that might be expected, with its wide boulevards lined with cherry-blossom trees, laid-back friendliness, bourgeoning foodie scene and internationally minded community. The city’s cosmopolitan revival is part of its survive and thrive story.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Hiroshima DATE OF BIRTH: 1589; when feudal lord Mori Terumoto named the town and established a castle ADDRESS: Japan (map 6, R3) HEIGHT: 4m SIZE: 742 sq km POPULATION: 1.2 million ANATOMY Hiroshima (meaning ‘broad island’) is built on a series of sandy islands on the delta of Ota-gawa river. JR Hiroshima Station is east of the city centre and, although there is a number of hotels around the station, the Peace Memorial Park with its affecting monuments is the real attraction. Hiroshima’s main east–west avenue is Heiwa-Ōdōri (Peace Blvd). Parallel to it runs the busiest road (with the main tram lines from the station), Aioi-dōri. Just south of this is the busy Hon-dōri shopping arcade. There is an extensive tram system and a useful hop-on, hop-off bus.

The Atomic Bomb Dome, a sobering reminder of the city’s past / CHASE DAVIDSON | 500PX

PEOPLE For a Japanese metropolis, Hiroshima is still a small city, affording its residents an element of Japanese traditional rural charm. Chinese, Korean and Filipinos constitute about 75% of the migrant community, while another 20% hail from Peru and Brazil. BEST TIME The best months to visit for comfortable warm temperatures are from March to June; and from late August to late October. March and April is cherryblossom season with trees flowering in Hijiyama-kōen and all over the city. September and October are cooler months with autumnal colours and temperatures averaging 20°C.

Hiroshima’s 16th-century castle was reconstructed in 1958 / GRANT M HENDERSON | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Relishing a lunch of kaki-ryōri (oyster cuisine) or Hiroshima-yaki – which takes the okonomiyaki (cabbage and egg savoury pancake) and adds a layer of noodles – before touring the town in a streetcar to take in the heroic collection of tributes and memorials, most notably Peace Memorial Park. STRENGTHS • Peace Memorial Park with its Atomic Bomb Dome and Children’s Peace Monument • City Manga Library • Nearby Miyajima • Hijiyama-kōen, noted for its cherry blossoms in Spring • Mazda Museum • DJ scene • Hiroshima-jō (also known as Carp Castle) • Hiroshima Museum of Art • Beloved ‘Carp’ Japanese baseball team WEAKNESSES • Bus needed to get to sights • Memorials overshadow other attractions • Plane or bullet train ride needed from Osaka or Tokyo GOLD STAR For being a symbol of hope: one of the modern world’s darkest hours has been transformed into a strong message of peace at the Peace Memorial Park, where the semi-destroyed Atomic Bomb Dome still stands in defiance, and hundreds of origami cranes sent from across the world brighten the Children’s Monument. STARRING ROLE IN… • Hiroshima Mon Amour (1959) • Hadashi no Gen (1983)

• Shockwave : Countdown to Hiroshima by Stephen Walker • Hiroshima by John Hershey IMPORT • Okonomiyaki (started as a Chinese snack) • Otafuku Karaoke • Western fashion • Migrants from China, Korea and the Philippines • Pop music EXPORT • Mazdas • Kumano makeup brushes • Oysters • Hopes of peace SEE the Flame of Peace, which will only be extinguished once the last nuclear weapon on earth has been destroyed. EAT Hiroshima-yaki, a local version of okonomiyaki (egg-based savoury pancakes), from over 25 mini-restaurants at Okonomi-mura. DRINK sake at the breweries of Saijo, particularly during the annual sake festival in October. DO visit the popular Mazda Museum and see the world’s longest assembly line – 7km. WATCH a memorial service held in Peace Memorial Park on 6 August, where thousands of paper lanterns for the spirits of the dead are floated down the Ota-gawa. BUY sweet momiji-manju – Japanese maple-leaf shaped desserts filled with red bean. AFTER DARK check out a club with local DJs playing everything from electro to trap, or scour the lanes near Aioi-dori for a promising karaoke bar.

URBAN TALE A 10-year-old local girl named Sadako, who like many others after the atomic bomb attack developed leukaemia, decided to fold 1000 paper cranes – an ancient Japanese custom through which it is believed that a person’s wishes will come true. The crane is the symbol of longevity and happiness in Japan, and Sadako was convinced that if she could achieve that target she would recover. Though she died before reaching her goal, her classmates folded the rest. The story inspired a nationwide bout of paper-crane folding, which continues to this day. This was also the impetus behind the Children’s Peace Monument, where strings of paper cranes from all over Japan are kept on display.

The centuries-old Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island is a short hop from Hiroshima / SAMART MEKTIPPACHAI | SHUTTERSTOCK

Ho Chi Minh City // Vietnam Crazy-making and seductive, HCMC (formerly known as Saigon) beats with a palpable energy, day and night.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Ho Chi Minh City NICKNAME: HCMC; also known as Saigon DATE OF BIRTH: 6th century AD; when the Funanese constructed a canal system that most likely extended to the site of present-day Ho Chi Minh City ADDRESS: Vietnam (map 6, K10) HEIGHT: 9m SIZE: 2356 sq km POPULATION: 8.22 million ANATOMY Ho Chi Minh City is not so much a city as a small province, with rural regions making up the majority of the land area (but only holding a fraction of the city’s population). HCMC is divided into 16 urban districts (quan, derived from the French quartier) and five rural districts (huyen). District 1 (once Saigon) is the downtown area and the location of most of the city’s sights, while District 5 encompasses the huge Chinese neighbourhood called Cholon (Big Market). The city’s Neoclassical and international-style buildings and pavement kiosks selling French rolls and croissants give neighbourhoods such as District 3 an attractive, vaguely French atmosphere. Travelling the chaotic streets of HCMC is not for the faint-hearted. Metered taxis, cyclos (pedicabs) and motorbike ‘taxis’ are the most common forms of transport.

The Saigon River meanders through HCMC’s epic urban expanse / DUNG PHAM | 500PX

PEOPLE HCMC has the largest ethnic Chinese community in Vietnam, mostly found in Cholon. While most fled in 1975, a small community of Indians remains; Vietnam’s other minorities (Khmers, Chams and Hill Tribes) tend to live in other regions of the country. BEST TIME February has hardly any rain, the least humidity, and a city filled with blooms for the Tet celebrations. In March low rain and humidity persists, plus the annual Saigon Cyclo Challenge sees professional and amateur cyclo drivers racing (and entertaining) to find out who’s fastest. In December the weather is a whisper cooler than normal for steamy HCMC and comparatively dry.

A statue of Ho Chi Minh stands front and centre of the French colonial-style City Hall / ROBERTHARDING | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Strolling through the crisscross streets of historic District 1, wrangling a cyclo into Cholon, sniffing around local markets and browsing the sumptuous shops around Dong Khoi, before journeying further afield to the Cao Dai Temple and Cu Chi Tunnels. STRENGTHS • The dynamic and spirited atmosphere • Cyclo drivers who give you an insight into their city • Proximity to the Mekong Delta • Smiling, friendly residents • Bustling, intriguing Cholon • Modern, hip shops and restaurants • Fantastic cuisine • War Remnants Museum • Jade Emperor Pagoda • The elegant colonial-era Fine Arts Museum • Neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral • Traditional Vietnamese dance in the French colonial Opera House • Museum of Vietnamese History WEAKNESSES • Pickpockets • Confusingly named streets • Traffic • Pollution

The two-wheeled traffic on HCMC’s streets has to be seen to be believed / LICHTBILDFOTOGRAF | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For silk boutiques – more diverse, less traditional and cheaper than those in Hanoi. STARRING ROLE IN… • Indochine (1992) • Cyclo (1995) • The Quiet American (2002) • Hollow (2014) • Miss Saigon 25th Anniversary (2016) IMPORT • French and American expats • Rural peasants • Pubs • Croissants

• Uber EXPORT • Ao dai (Vietnamese national dress) • Fashion bloggers SEE the War Remnants Museum for a graphic depiction of the impact of US military action from the point of view of ‘the other side’. EAT traditional banh xeo (rice-flour crepes stuffed with bean sprouts, prawns and pork), especially at the swoon-worthy restaurant Banh Xeo 46A. DRINK cocktails while taking in the city view and cool breezes at one the various rooftop bars. DO take a trip through the city in a cyclo before the municipal government phases them out to ease traffic congestion. WATCH hordes of young people checking each other out in the upscale shopping district around Dong Khoi every weekend. BUY a carved seal featuring your name in Vietnamese at bustling Ben Thanh Market. AFTER DARK join locals gathered around lit-up Notre Dame Cathedral and enjoy street vendor snacks and the convivial social atmosphere.

URBAN TALE Why does the dong have so many zeros? Some say the ethnic Chinese who fled Ho Chi Minh City after the American war (and took much of their wealth with them) caused the currency to spike. More likely, the large denominations are a result of failed economic reforms and hyperinflation of a reunified Vietnam in the late ’80s. Although it confuses new visitors, locals are so used to the Vietnamese word for ‘thousand’ that it is synonymous with ‘dong’.

Incense is burned at the entrance of a pagoda to celebrate the lunar new year / HUYTHOAI | GETTY IMAGES

Hobart // Australia Hobart pairs its colonial architecture and natural good looks with cult-status festivals, culinary prowess and an art museum that has the whole world gasping.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Hobart DATE OF BIRTH: 1803; when European colonialists arrived, though previously inhabited by the Mouheneenner People ADDRESS: Australia (map 1, NN22) HEIGHT: 54m SIZE: 78 sq km POPULATION: 50,714 ANATOMY Hobart straddles the mouth of the Derwent River in the shadow of the hulking 1270m-high Mt Wellington (Kunanji). Directly southeast of the gridlike city centre lies the rapidly redeveloping Hobart waterfront, home to Brooke Street Pier and its fashionable wining and dining options. To the south lie the Georgian warehouses of Salamanca Place and the quaint historic streets of Battery Point. Further south lies salubrious Sandy Bay, home to the university and Wrest Point casino. Twelve kilometres northwest of central Hobart along the Derwent is must-see art centre MONA and adjoining Moorilla Estate Winery, accessible by road or by catamaran from Brooke Street Pier. Cars, buses, boats and bicycles nip through and around the city.

A hiker is rewarded wih sweeping views of Hobart and surrounds from atop Mt Wellington / PAPARWIN TANUPATARACHAI | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Hobart is Australia’s second-oldest city, which makes its inhabitants some of the oldest non-indigenous Australians in terms of generations. The majority of Hobartians are of European (especially British) descent. Around 74% of the city’s population was born in Australia, with most residents born abroad hailing from the United Kingdom, New Zealand and China. Just 1.2% of Hobart’s population is Indigenous, though that rises to 3% in the metro area. The population is largely non-religious. BEST TIME While there is no bad time to visit the city, especially good periods include summery January for music fest Mofo, April for harvest-time produce and vivid autumn colours and June for the atmospheric Dark Mofo midwinter arts festival.

A PERFECT DAY Morning grazing, shopping and people watching at the vibrant Salamanca Market followed by a catamaran cruise up the Derwent River to MONA for conversation-piece art, architecture and local wine. STRENGTHS • Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) • Natural beauty • Georgian and Victorian architecture • Salamanca Market • Salamanca Arts Centre • Gourmet food and wine • Fresh seafood • Craft whiskies, gins and beers • Sailing activities including the Royal Hobart Regatta • Mofo and Dark Mofo festivals • Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra • Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens, housing the largest collection of mature conifers in the southern hemisphere • Organic products • Proximity to world-class wineries • Taste of Tasmania festival • Ten Days on the Island festival • Surfing at Clifton Beach WEAKNESSES • Relatively expensive if good accommodation • Aesthetically challenged Federation Concert Hall • Eyesore modern office towers in the city centre GOLD STAR For MONA – opened in 2012, this extraordinary cultural complex has catapulted itself and Hobart onto the international stage with one of the world’s most immersive and subversive art collections (poo machine, anyone?).

STARRING ROLE IN… • The English Passengers by Matthew Kneale • The Tilted Cross by Hal Porter • The Fatal Shore by Robert Hughes IMPORT • Convicts • Mainland artists and artisans lured by cheaper rents and a relaxed lifestyle • Clued-in tourists with a passion for top-notch produce, innovative culture and pristine landscapes EXPORT • Actor Errol Flynn • Designer Patrick Hall • Painter William Piguenit • Sullivans Cove single-malt whisky • Shene Estate & Distillery’s Poltergeist Gin • Pinot Noir from Puddleduck Vineyard • Rock lobster • Salmon • Abalone • Scallops • Cascade Premium Lager and Pale Ale • Tasmanian Symphony Orchestra • Huon pine and sassafras wood • Lavender • Leatherwood honey • Tasmanian Gothic literature SEE the unconventional art and architecture that underscores cutting-edge MONA. EAT beautifully cooked local produce at culinary hotspot Templo. DRINK free sample suds while touring Australia’s oldest brewery, Cascade.

DO one of the many walking trails up Mt Wellington for jaw-dropping views. BUY beautiful local craft among Georgian warehouses at Salamanca Market. AFTER DARK savour a local Pinot Noir or gin by bracing waters at The Glass House.

URBAN TALE If you want a first-hand experience of Hobart’s mythical underworld, take a ghost tour of the Penitentiary Chapel, offered by the National Trust. Ghost Tours of Hobart also offers nightly ghoul-spotting. With Hobart’s convict history don’t be surprised if you come face to face with some nasty dead characters. Good luck!

Hobart’s internationally recognised Museum of Modern and New Art (MONA) / MONA MUSEUM OF OLD AND NEW ART. SOUTHERN FACADE VIEWED FROM LITTLE FRYING PAN

ISLAND, SOUTH OF THE MUSEUM. PHOTO CREDIT: MONA/LEIGH CARMICHAEL IMAGE COURTESY OF MONA MUSEUM OF OLD AND NEW ART, HOBART, TASMANIA, AUSTRALIA

Hoi An // Vietnam With its graceful traditional architecture and family homes that reveal personal histories, Hoi An embodies Vietnam’s past, oozing charm and culture from every corner.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Hoi An DATE OF BIRTH: 200 BC; the late-Iron Age Sa Huynh civilisation are thought to have been the first inhabitants of Hoi An ADDRESS: Vietnam (map 6, L9) HEIGHT: 13m SIZE: 60 sq km POPULATION: 121,700 ANATOMY Hoi An is a living museum linked to the sea by the shallow Thu Bon River. Moss-covered pagodas and the pedestrian-friendly Old Town make many a visitor feel that they have been transported back centuries. Hoi An’s brickcoloured am and duong (Yin and Yang) roof tiles, meticulously restored temples, and unique bridges can be explored on a day’s walking tour, a bicycle ride or by boat.

Traditional Chinese shopfronts line the waterfront / JOHN HARPER | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Hoi An’s sea port has a rich history as a vibrant international trading centre and was the site of southern Vietnam’s first Chinese settlement. Today, 1300 of Hoi An’s population are ethnic Chinese. Relations between them and the ethnic Vietnamese have always been harmonious, with the Chinese here even speaking Vietnamese among themselves. BEST TIME Plan a visit for between February and July when it is sunny, warm and most importantly dry. June and July are very hot but quiet months, with cheaper accommodation costs and fewer crowds. September to January can be plagued by heavy rains and flooding, which Hoi An is famous for. Look up the lunar calendar while planning your trip to see if you can coincide your visit for the 14th of the lunar month, when festivities fill the streets with lanterns, singing and dancing.

Breakfast is served at streetside restaurants across town / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Walking through Hoi An’s pedestrian-friendly town centre to choose the silk for a new (and astonishingly cheap) tailored outfit. Then crossing the sparse beauty of the Japanese Covered Bridge to take in a gallery or two before donning the finished clothes for dinner, which might include ‘white roses’ (steamed prawns wrapped in rice paper), then walking along lantern-lit streets to join the crowds at the night market. STRENGTHS • Traditional Vietnam at its best • Unesco-listed historical buildings in the Old Town • Temples and pagodas, such as Phuoc Lam Pagoda • Pedestrian-friendly streets • Cheap tailors • Local artisans • Boat rides along the river • Vietnamese cooking classes • Waterside eateries • Thirty kilometres of pristine, palm-lined beach • Low levels of traffic and pollution WEAKNESSES • Unsafe swimming for six months of the year (November to March) • Occasional late-night bag snatching • Visitor-congested streets • Fake antiques • Quiet nightlife

A streetfood vendor grills pork skewers / UTA GLEISER/EYEEM | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For architectural history – Hoi An serves as a museum piece of Vietnamese history and more than 800 structures of historical significance have been officially identified here. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Quiet American (2002) • Faifo (2014) IMPORT • Japanese architecture • English and French language • Chinese culture • Hinduism • Christianity • Vietnamese, Chinese, Western and vegetarian cuisine • Commercialism

EXPORT • Cotton and silk • Woodcarving • Ceramics • Mass produced, hand-painted artworks • Cao lau (a traditional noodle dish) SEE the clear streams that run between the monuments of My Son. EAT cao lau, the city’s signature dish of pork, bean sprouts and noodles, at a street stall or a restaurant that helps disadvantaged youth. DRINK fine wine or strong coffee in lovingly restored houses. DO a cooking course – buy from the market, take your groceries home on a river cruise, cook up local dishes and, of course, eat the results. WATCH a traditional music concert in the historic Hoi An Old Town. BUY local art and craft at the fair-trade gift shop, Reaching Out. AFTER DARK eat fresh seafood from the bright line of kiosks leading to the moonlit beach.

URBAN TALE According to legend, there once lived an enormous monster called Cu, which had its head in India, its tail in Japan and its body in Vietnam. Whenever the monster moved, floods and earthquakes befell Vietnam. Hoi An’s Japanese Covered Bridge is believed to have been built on the monster’s weakest point and killed it; the temple within the bridge was built to pray for its soul. Constructed in the 1590s by the Japanese community, the bridge was built to be strong (though is now due to be renovated); builders, supertitious about the restless soul of the monster Cu, keep delaying the upkeep works.

The Japanese covered bridge once joined the Japanese settlement with the rest of town / MELVYN LONGHURST | GETTY IMAGES

Hong Kong // China Hong Kong is a noisy, vibrant fusion of West and East, packed with businesspeople, markets, temples, futuristic buildings, double-decker trams and boats crisscrossing the harbour – it is unlike anywhere else on earth.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Hong Kong NICKNAME: Fragrant Harbour DATE OF BIRTH: 206 BC; when the Eastern Han dynasty ruled ADDRESS: China (map 6, M7) HEIGHT: 957m SIZE: 1100 sq km POPULATION: 6.8 million ANATOMY Four main areas make up Hong Kong. To the south lies Hong Kong Island containing most major businesses and government offices and many top-end hotels and restaurants, all overlooked by Victoria Peak. Over the harbour to the north bustles the Kowloon Peninsula, with even more people and shopping opportunities. The New Territories, spreading from Kowloon towards mainland China, and the 234 outlying islands, complete the puzzle. Public transport is cheap, fast, widely used and generally efficient.

A junk sails across Hong Kong harbour / IAKOV KALININ | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Approximately 93% of the population is ethnic Chinese, but only about 57% of those were born in the territory. Of the foreign community, the two largest groups are Filipinos and Indonesians, but there is a significant Western population, mostly engaged in the corporate sector. Hong Kong society is highly educated, fashion conscious and globally minded. BEST TIME Hong Kong swelters in summer, so avoid the months of June to August if possible. October and March are the best months as you can still hike, swim and dine outdoors without too much interruption from cold snaps or those pesky typhoons.

Dining out is a city obsession / SHI WEI | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Riding the Star Ferry to Tsim Sha Tsui for a stroll before heading to Kowloon Park for some t’ai chi, soaking up the buzz of Nathan Rd, then refuelling with afternoon tea at the Peninsula Hotel, and finishing with a drink in the entertainment district of Lan Kwai Fong. STRENGTHS • Victoria Peak • Glittering skyline • Star Ferry • Traditional junk boat rides • Historic trams • Temple St night market • Tian Tan Buddha statue • Shopping in Central and Causeway Bay • Beaches and hiking • Lamma Island • 600 temples • Central–Mid-Levels Escalator • Dim sum and wonton restaurants • Low crime rate • Hong Kong Museum of History • Rugby Sevens WEAKNESSES • Noise, water and air pollution • Crowds • Humidity • Expensive accommodation and dining GOLD STAR For access to nature – about 75% of Hong Kong is dedicated country park, meaning you can enjoy a champagne dim sum brunch in one of the world’s hippest urban neighbourhoods then hit a remote island for secluded hiking in

the afternoon. STARRING ROLE IN… • In the Mood for Love (1962) • The Man with the Golden Gun (1974) • Year of the Dragon (1985) • Double Impact (1991) • Rush Hour (1998) • Infernal Affairs (2002) • Tomb Raider 2 (2003) • Transformers: Age of Extinction (2014) IMPORT • Water • Expats • Money • Sports stars for international tournaments • Mainlanders on luxury-brand shopping sprees EXPORT • High fashion: Walter Ma, Barney Cheng, John Rocha, David Tang • Filmmaker John Woo • Martial artist and film star Jackie Chan • Actor Chow Yun Fat • HK Cinema • Canto-pop • Highly educated, cosmopolitan workforce SEE the jaw-dropping view from the summit of Victoria Peak and enjoy the gravity-challenging ride there on the Peak tram. EAT dim sum delights at the noisy, authentic Maxim’s Palace. DRINK milk tea at the Cantonese dai pai dong around Mong Kok and Central.

DO take a nocturnal lantern-festooned Star Ferry from Tsim Sha Tsui to Central and enjoy the cityscape by night. WATCH thousands make the pilgrimage to the Tian Tan Buddha statue on Buddha’s Birthday in May. BUY a custom-made suit from Sam’s Tailor or try your luck on Nathan Rd. AFTER DARK seek out the thumping, top-shelf nightclubs in Lan Kwai Fong.

URBAN TALE Under British rule, Kowloon Walled City was the most densely populated place on earth, where the Triads (local gangsters) controlled gambling, prostitution and opium rackets with apparent immunity from authorities. Known as the City of Darkness, or ‘the one room the Chinese always kept locked’, the walled city housed 35,000 people across 300 interconnected buildings until it was finally closed down in 1993. Meanwhile, the infamous Chungking Mansions, once a bastion of the hippy trail, remains a hub of micro-commerce for migrant communities and one of the last remaining symbols of the city’s seedy past. Rumours of its demise may be premature, but Beijing officials, not to mention property developers, continue to keep a watchful eye.

Bustling Queen’s Rd was the first road constructed by the British from 1841 to 1843 / HELEN CATHCART | GETTY IMAGES

İstanbul // Turkey The masterpiece of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires in its former incarnations as Byzantium and Constantinople, and the jewel of the modern Turkish state, İstanbul is a bustling, rambunctious, energetic and bewitching city.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: İstanbul NICKNAME: The City of the World’s Desire DATE OF BIRTH: 667 BC, when Byzas, a citizen of the town of Megara near Athens, established a settlement and called it Byzantium ADDRESS: Turkey (map 4, V16) HEIGHT: 114m SIZE: 1991 sq km POPULATION: 14.6 million ANATOMY The only city to straddle two continents, İstanbul is separated into European and Asian districts by the Bosphorus Strait. The oldest parts of the city are the Asian suburbs of Kadıköy (ancient Chalcedon) and Üsküdar (ancient Chrysopolis), and the monument-rich neighbourhood of Sultanahmet on the historical peninsula in Europe. Across the Golden Horn from Sultanahmet is the former diplomatic quarter of Beyoğlu, now a modern shopping and entertainment district. Trams, buses and a state-of-the-art metro system connect all corners of the city, but the most enjoyable way to cross the city is on the ferries that ply the choppy waters of the Bosphorus.

The needle-like minarets of the Suleymaniye Mosque stand out in the city skyline / SEQOYA | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE İstanbul is largely Turkish and Sunni Muslim, but the fabric of the city and its citizens is interwoven with diverse influences. There are small but longstanding Greek, Armenian and Jewish communities, as well as a smaller expat community. Some families can trace their history in the city over centuries, but in recent decades huge numbers of villagers from Central Anatolia and eastern Turkey have arrived to seek opportunities in this thriving metropolis and now number nearly 80% of the city’s population. Many of these newcomers are under the age of 30. BEST TIME Spring and autumn (fall) are the best times to visit İstanbul, as the weather is temperate and there are plenty of cultural festivals to attend. Summers can be unpleasantly hot and winters bone-chillingly cold. If possible, avoid visiting during Kurban Bayramı (Feast of the Sacrifice), when banks and many other businesses are closed and when all buses, trains and planes are heavily

booked. The feast is celebrated according to the Muslim lunar Hejira calendar and its dates change every year.

Meze displayed at a local restaurant / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Contemplating the mighty soaring dome of Aya Sofya, visiting the magnificent Ottoman mosques on the Historical Peninsula, getting lost in the labyrinthine lanes of the Grand Bazaar and the streets around the Spice Bazaar, and palace spotting on a ferry trip down the Bosphorus. STRENGTHS • Vibrant arts, music and fashion scenes • History around every corner • Bosphorus cruises and ferry rides • Gregarious Turks • Meyhanes (taverns) in Beyoğlu and the Bosphorus suburbs • Byzantine churches • Ottoman mosques • Carpets, textiles and Turkish handicrafts • Local produce markets • Relaxing in çay bahçesis (tea gardens) • Leisurely breakfasts and spectacular views from hotel rooftops WEAKNESSES • Carpet-shop touts in Sultanahmet • Significant traffic congestion and crowded public transport • Unstable security situation • Historic neighbourhoods and some green spaces being razed and unsympathetically redeveloped

Intricate tiling inside the Topkapı Palace / SAIKO3P | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR The interaction of air, water, land and architecture – to truly appreciate this, walk across Galata Bridge at twilight to admire the minaret-studded skyline of Old İstanbul, the apartment-adorned slopes of Beyoğlu and the magnificent mass of the iconic Bosphorus bridge linking Europe and Asia. STARRING ROLE IN… • Topkapi (1964) • From Russia with Love (1974) • Distant (2003) • Skyfall (2012) • My Name is Red and The Museum of Innocence by Orhan Pamuk • A Mind at Peace by Ahmet Hamdi Tanipar • Portrait of a Turkish Family by Irfan Orga • The Flea Palace, The Bastard of İstanbul and The Architect’s Apprentice by Elif Şafak • The Inspector İkmen crime novels of Barbara Nadel

IMPORT • Hole-in-the-wall craft-cocktail bars • Hipster-styled specialty coffee shops EXPORT • Cars, heavy machinery and appliances • Textiles and clothing SEE the treasures of the Ottoman sultans at the Topkapı Palace. EAT sweet, sweet baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu or Develi Baklava. DRINK rakı (aniseed spirit) accompanied by meze (a selection of hot and cold starters traditionally served at the beginning of Middle Eastern meals). DO a Bosphorus cruise, criss-crossing between the European and Asian shores. WATCH commuters at Eminönü in the late afternoon – the whole world is on the move. BUY carpets or traditional handicrafts in the Grand Bazaar – come prepared to haggle. AFTER DARK head across to the bars and clubs in Karaköy or around İstiklal Caddesi in Beyoğlu.

URBAN TALE English prime minister Benjamin Disraeli spent time in İstanbul in 1830, claiming ‘the life of this people greatly accords with my taste, being somewhat indolent and melancholy… To repose on voluptuous ottomans, to smoke superb pipes, daily to indulge in the luxuries of the bath…is I think a far more sensible life…’

Turkish delight and more / FABRIKASIMF | SHUTTERSTOCK

Jaipur // India Visiting Rajasthan’s famous ‘Pink City’ is like stepping inside a kaleidoscope – the streets are painted in psychedelic colours by shimmering saris, towering turbans, dayglo shopsigns, sculpted sandstone facades and the glittering adornments on camel harnesses and the horns of sacred cows.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Jaipur NICKNAME: The Pink City DATE OF BIRTH: 1727; when Jai Singh decided to move his capital from Amber ADDRESS: India (map 6, D5) HEIGHT: 390m SIZE: 485 sq km POPULATION: 3.05 million ANATOMY The historic heart of Jaipur is the walled Old City, squeezed up against rocky outcrops in the northeast of city. From this atmospheric jumble of palaces, bazaars and temples, the new city sprawls south and west. Most of the mustsee sights are in the Old City and taxis and auto-rickshaws are the best way to get around.

Sunset views over Jaipur from the Nahargarh Fort / SEAN3810 | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Jaipur’s population is predominantly Hindu, with a sizeable Muslim minority, and many residents can trace a direct lineage to the ancient Rajput clans who ruled Rajasthan in the medieval period. Many Rajput men celebrate their heritage by sporting huge, colourful turbans and swashbuckling moustaches. The city also hosts small communities of Jains, Sikhs and Christians. Members of the Adivasi (tribal) groups who were the first inhabitants of this region today form 12% of the city population, compared to a national average of 8%, but most residents now speak Hindi and Rajasthani. BEST TIME Jaipur is hot year round and best appreciated from October to March, between monsoons. March is also the month when the city celebrates the famous Elephant Festival. Be warned: the city can be almost unbearably hot and sticky in April and May.

Chef prepares a typical Rajasthani meal / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Wandering the centuries-old bazaars of the walled Old City, haggling for block-printed fabrics and leather jootis (slippers), then viewing the chaos from above at the City Palace before retreating in the afternoon to the high battlements of Amber Fort, to catch the cooling breezes. STRENGTHS • A profusion of palaces, and some palatial hotels • Fabulous fabrics on display • India’s most impressive moustaches • The mercantile mayhem of the Old City • Views from the City Palace and Amber Fort • Jai Singh II’s surreal Jantar Mantar observatory • Festival fun at the Elephant Festival, Gangaur and Teej • Handsome havelis (ornate traditional residences) WEAKNESSES • Hassle from touts • Pressure to buy • Gem scams • Camel, cow and motorcycle traffic jams • Overzealous rickshaw wallahs

Fabric is hand-printed with wooden blocks at a local shop / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For the organised chaos of the old town, where a medieval grid-system divides the Pink City into discrete rectangles, each dedicated to a different kind of trade or craft. This early piece of town planning was the brainchild of Maharajah Jai Singh I, who took his inspiration from the Shilpa Shastras, ancient documents laying out the principles of Hindu art. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (2011) • A Princess Remembers by Gaytari Devi and Santha Rama Rau • Jaipur: The Last Destination by Aman and Samar Singh Jodha IMPORT • Mughal architectural influences • Raj-era habits like polo and high tea • Camera-totting tourists • Bottled water

• Camel carts from the countryside • Scientists and astronomers EXPORT • Retired maharajahs • Lac (shellac) bangles • Hand-knotted rugs • Gemstones, real and phony SEE the city as it was glimpsed by the cossetted ladies of court, through the delicate pierced sandstone screens of the Hawa Mahal. EAT the street food served sizzling in the lanes of the Old City; seek out laal maas (lamb and chilli curry), pyaaz kachori (onion-filled dough balls) and ghewar (wheat disks soaked in cardamom syrup). DRINK at the Polo Bar in the Rambagh Palace Hotel, with its arched, scalloped windows overlooking perfect lawns. DO make the trip out to the magnificent fortress-palace of Amber, a beautiful, ethereal example of Rajput architecture. WATCH a polo match at the historic polo ground next to the Rambagh Palace. BUY precious and semiprecious stones, gold, silver and fine, highly glazed enamel work known as meenakari, a Jaipur speciality. AFTER DARK watch a film at Raj Mandir Cinema, the world’s only meringue-shaped film house.

URBAN TALE Jaipur’s legendary pink colour was first instituted in 1876 when Maharaja Ram Singh had the entire walled city painted pink – a colour associated with hospitality – to welcome the Prince of Wales (later King

Edward VII). Pollution has since dulled some buildings to a murky grey, but every sunset the Old City regains its iconic salmon glow.

A woman is covered in vibrantly coloured powder during Jaipur’s Holi festival / ROBERTO A SANCHEZ | GETTY IMAGES

Jerusalem // Israel and the Palestinian Territories Sacred to Jews, Christians and Muslims alike, Jerusalem is a beguiling mix of pilgrims and seekers of faith, and where historical stories come to life.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Jerusalem DATE OF BIRTH: around 2000 BC; originally a small Jebusite settlement, in 997 BC, King David captured the city and made it his capital ADDRESS: Israel and the Palestinian Territories (map 5, F7) HEIGHT: 557m SIZE: 122 sq km POPULATION: 804,400 ANATOMY Built on a series of hills, Jerusalem is on the watershed, the edge of the narrow fertile strip that clings to the Eastern Mediterranean. To the west there are green hills, spotted with villages. To the east, the brown desert hills are only rarely blessed with rain, which covers them in a ghostly sprinkling of bright green. There are two city centres, one Palestinian and one Israeli, both fairly compact and about 1.2km from each other. Jerusalem is laced with a very good network of city bus routes.

One of the most famous and sacred Islamic sights in Jeruselum, the golden-topped Dome of the Rock / GERD FISCHER | 500PX

PEOPLE Officially, Jews make up 68% of the population and Arabs 32%, but these figures are skewed by the inclusion of outlying Jewish settlements. The Jewish population comes from almost every corner of the earth, and ranges from long-bearded ultra-orthodox men in their traditional 17th-century Polish gabardine, to secular Moroccans partying in the latest American fashions. Hebrew and Arabic are the dominant languages, but many people speak English, especially in West Jerusalem. BEST TIME Jerusalem has a lovely Mediterranean climate that’s at its best from May through to October – even at the height of summer, daytime maximums rarely push much beyond 30°C and evenings are mild but bearable. Any time between November and March or April can be extremely chilly, especially at night.

A PERFECT DAY Sharing coffee and stories with an old man at the Damascus Gate, watching the sunset ignite the Dome of the Rock from the Mount of Olives, making a do-it-yourself falafel on Ben Yehuda St, before beer and live Russian music at the Pargod Theatre. STRENGTHS • An architectural patchwork of cultures and historical periods • Hilltop views • The atmospheric old city • Local hospitality • Empty highways on Yom Kippur • Sabbath quiet • Mild and dry weather • A centre of traditional Jewish learning • The Russian church • The Mount of Olives • Dome of the Rock • Home to many idealists WEAKNESSES • Religious tensions never far away • High prices on anything imported • Crazy traffic • Home to many idealists GOLD STAR Despite the frequent and sudden flare-ups in political and religious tensions, despite every single stone and historical story about the city being contested, Jerusalem is an extraordinary, soulful, spiritual place. STARRING ROLE IN… • Kadosh (1999) • Rana’s Wedding (2004) • The Bible • A Beggar in Jerusalem by Elie Wiesel

• Jerusalem by Larry Collins and Dominique Lapierre • Jerusalem: The Biography by Simon Sebag Montefiore IMPORT • Jews from half the countries in the world • Journalists • American fashions • Pilgrims • Tourists • Human-rights activists • Water • Students • Rough diamonds EXPORT • Religions • News footage • Holy relics • Edward Said • Nobel Prize winners • Antiquities • Natalie Portman • Yasser Arafat (birthplace disputed) • Amos Oz • Yitzhak Rabin • Pottery • Cut diamonds SEE the hills of Judea from the road to Jericho. EAT Yemenite haute cuisine at the Yemenite Step. DRINK sweet cardamom coffee at one of the many boutique cafes. DO the ramparts walk on the walls of the old city. WATCH the best of Israeli cinema at Cinematheque.

BUY traditional Palestinian embroidery at Maher Natsheh’s on Christian Quarter Rd. AFTER DARK sample Hebrew blues or trilingual rap at Mike’s Place.

URBAN TALE People say that ‘Jerusalem’ means ‘city of peace’ (from shalom), then shake their heads at how little peace there is. In fact, the city is named after the old patron god, Shalem, who was worshipped by the city’s Canaanite inhabitants in his hilltop temple, but evicted when the Israelites built their own temple. Today, the Muslim Dome of the Rock stands on the same hill, over a rock said to bear the Prophet Mohammed’s last footprint on earth. Jerusalem is like a religious onion – layered and tearful.

Crowds of shoppers pack into the Mahane Yehuda market / ALEXEY STIOP | SHUTTERSTOCK

Johannesburg // South Africa The huge beating heart of the Rainbow Nation is a cosmopolitan African city, at once untamed and sophisticated, now shedding its shameful past and embracing the richness and lessons of its history.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Johannesburg NICKNAME: Jo’burg; Jozi DATE OF BIRTH: 1886; founded when gold was discovered in the Transvaal ADDRESS: South Africa (map 1, Z20) HEIGHT: 1665m SIZE: 1,645 sq km POPULATION: 4.9 million ANATOMY Johannesburg is a rapidly changing city and one of the most vibrant in Africa. After almost 20 years of decline and decay, the city is now undergoing an incredible rebirth, with new developments being constructed at a rapid pace. The cultural districts of Newtown and Braamfontein, with their theatres, restaurants, cafes and museums, teem with creativity and energy. The inner city itself, once a no-go zone, is becoming a tourist gem, with plenty of pleasant surprises. And there’s Maboneng. On the eastern fringes of the inner city, this hipster-friendly urban neighbourhood is considered one of the most successful urban-renewal projects in the world.

Jo’burg’s rejuvenated downtown district / NATALY REINCH | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The population of Johannesburg is 73% black African and 17% white, with the remaining 10% made up of other nationalities, including a significant Indian portion. While South Africa has no fewer than 11 official languages, the most common in Johannesburg are Afrikaans, English, Zulu and Sesotho. The religious demographics of Johannesburg are similarly diverse, with around 53% belonging to mainstream Christian churches, 24% atheist, 14% belonging to African Independent churches, 3% Muslim, 1% Jewish and 1% Hindu. BEST TIME Johannesburg can be visited comfortably any time. However summer (late November to March) brings rain, mist and thunderstorms, while winter (June to September) may be too chilly for some tastes. Spring (October and November) and autumn (April and May) are ideal.

Local school kids enjoy a field trip at the zoo / ROSAIRENEBETANCOURT 3 | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Wandering through the rejuvenated civic spaces of Newtown and Constitutional Hill and the creative hub around Braamfontein before experiencing the magical energy of hip Maboneng – especially Arts on Main, a once-dilapidated building now transformed into a creative haven with artists’ studios, retail areas and a restaurant. STRENGTHS • Thriving music scene • Pleasant weather • City street stalls selling corn and beef • Many free art galleries • Arts Alive Festival (showcasing hot, new talent) • Over six million trees • Ethnic diversity • Mary Fitzgerald Sq

• Gay-friendly • World-class theatre • International sporting events • Apartheid Museum • Great shopping in the malls • Botanical Gardens • Neighbourgoods Market • Maboneng • Arts on Main • Inner City tours • Fantastic sunsets WEAKNESSES • Dangerous neighbourhoods • Visible divide between rich and poor • High unemployment • Traffic jams • Thunderstorms GOLD STAR For the high-life – stylish restaurants, world-class theatre productions and excellent shopping are all part of the fun of high living in one of the cheapest major cities in the world. STARRING ROLE IN… • Cry Freedom (1987) • Cry, the Beloved Country (1995) • Stander (2004) • Long Walk to Freedom by Nelson Mandela IMPORT • Luxury goods • International brand names • Mahatma Gandhi (for a time) • European and Asian cuisine • Cars

EXPORT • Gold • The wisdom of Nelson Mandela • Finance • Insurance • Processed food • Diamonds • Actress Charlize Theron SEE the nearby Cradle of Humankind site where human ancestor fossils up to 3.5 million years old have been excavated. EAT a juicy burger or an expertly cooked T-bone at the aptly named Grillhouse, one of Jozi’s most famous steakhouses. DRINK a cocktail or sample a craft beer at the Artisan while soaking up the awesome views of Jo’burg’s loveliest and leafiest suburbs. DO take a personalised tour of central Jo’burg with a knowledgeable guide to change your perceptions about the city. WATCH rugby at the hallowed Ellis Park and get religious with the fanatical fans. BUY traditional medicine at the Faraday Market. AFTER DARK head to Lenin’s Vodka Bar, a Maboneng institution, which is famous for one thing and one thing only: vodka.

URBAN TALE Many Johannesburg dwellers still think that the downtown is unsafe and run-down, unaware of the tremendous progress that is underway. Large areas of the inner city are being revitalised, upgraded and modernised. One of the most appealling (and safest) areas is Marshalltown, Jo’burg’s old financial and corporate district with many mining company and bank

head offices. Even the Alexandra township can be visited – by bike with a local guide.

Traditional woven baskets adorn the walls of the Basket Room at the Saxon Hotel / BLAINE HARRINGTON III | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Kagoshima // Japan Despite the active Sakurajima volcano looming large over the city from just across the bay and raining ash all over town, Kagoshima’s residents remain as sunny as its climate, and it’s not hard to see why this city is voted Japan’s friendliest.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kagoshima NICKNAME: Naples of the Eastern world DATE OF BIRTH: 1340; coinciding with the establishment of the Lord Ujihisa Shimadzu’s castle ADDRESS: Japan (map 6, Q4) HEIGHT: 40m SIZE: 547 sq km POPULATION: 600,000 ANATOMY The seaside city of Kagoshima sits at the southern tip of Japan’s most southwestern island, Kyushu, and spreads itself along the Kagoshima Bay. The main train station is JR Kagoshima-Chūō in the south, and there is another smaller JR Kagoshima station on the opposite side of the city. There are also two tram lines that travel through the city and provide the easiest way of getting around town.

The active Sakurajima volcano makes its presence felt / PRISMA BILDAGENTUR AG | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Kagoshima’s residents are known as some of the friendliest in the country and are clearly quite resolute; despite the volcano often blanketing the town in ash, dirtying hanging laundry and stinging the skin, they simply raise their umbrellas and continue on with their days. Most residents are Japanese, with the Kagoshima prefecture having one of the smallest populations of foreigners in the country. The distinctive local dialect is known as Satsugū dialect or Kagoshima dialect. BEST TIME The best time to visit Kagoshima is spring (April to May), before the wet season hits around mid-June to July. Autumn is also a lovely time and great for enjoying the onsen experience as temperatures are mild with crisp evenings.

Fresh ingredients for shabu-shabu, a southern Japanese specialty / JUNICHI MIYAZAKI | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Watching whale sharks and tuna glide above you at the Kagoshima City Aquarium before learning about sword techniques at the Museum of Meiji Restoration. Strolling through the Sengan-en gardens and then finding a local onsen to soak your weary muscles. STRENGTHS • Sunny climate • Palm trees • Friendly locals • Over 50 bathhouses • Historical museums • Kagoshima Fish Market WEAKNESSES • Close proximity to a very active volcano! • Ash rainfalls

Al-fresco dining Kagoshima style / LOKYIN_PHOTOGRAPHY | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For important archaeological findings – a short hop from Kagoshima city is the site where some of the oldest authenticated Jōmon-era pottery pieces were found during excavations (some 9500 years old). The Uenohara Jōmon-noMori museum on the site features a village recreation of the Jōmon-era as well as other artefacts. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Shogun’s Queen by Lesley Downer IMPORT • Singer Ai EXPORT • Traditional alcoholic beverage shōchū • Japanese sweets such as hyōrokumochi • ‘The last samurai’ Saigo Takamori

• Karate world champion Kenji Midori SEE into samurai loyalty and the Satsuma Rebellion that took place in and around Kagoshima at the Museum of Meiji Restoration. EAT the regional cuisine satsuma-ryōri, which includes dishes such as satsuma-age (deep-fried fish cake) and kurobuta shabu-shabu (black pork hotpot). DRINK shōchū, the highly regarded local alcohol made from sweet potatoes. Try it straight, on the rocks or with a splash of hot water. DO soak in an onsen or sentō (hot-spring or bathhouse); you can grab a map of the many bathhouses in the city at most tourist information offices. WATCH boys burn umbrellas on the riverbank in Kagoshima’s unusual Umbrella Burning Festival in July. BUY delicate black-and-ivory satsuma-yaki earthenware pottery, traditionally made in the area. AFTER DARK head to the Tenmonkan shopping and entertainment area for the most happening nightlife – karaoke, clubs and bars.

URBAN TALE Mt Takachiho, located in the Kagoshima prefecture in the Kirishima mountain range, is said to be where the god Ninigi-no-Mikoto descended to earth from heaven. Ninigi-no-Mikoto was the grandson of the sun goddess Amanoterasu. It’s believed by some that the mysterious spear that can be see today embedded in the rocks on the summit was left behind by the god and that this is the same heavenly halberd that was used in creating the Japanese archipelago by the first male and female gods. A Fire of the Gods festival is held every November to commemorate Ninigi-no-Mikoto.

One of the traditional Japanese gardens open to the public in the Chiran Samurai district close to Kagoshima / KAN_KHAMPANYA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Kairouan // Tunisia Tunisia’s spiritual heart, Kairouan is serene, magnetic, lively and proud: this ancient beauty of exquisite arches, columns and stonework enthrals the mind and eyeballs.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kairouan NICKNAME: Little Cairo DATE OF BIRTH: AD 670; when Arab conqueror Uqba Ibn Nafi established military posts across North Africa and set up a temporary encampment at what later became Kairouan ADDRESS: Tunisia (map 4, L10) HEIGHT: 60m SIZE: 30 sq km POPULATION: 186,653 ANATOMY Easy to navigate by foot, the old walled holy city of Kairouan encloses crumbling, whitewashed, blue- and green-edged houses, some hung with birdcages and many marked by the hand of Fatima. Away from the main souvenir drag, it’s lovely to wander through the narrow cobblestone streets and big doorways of the medina (old quarter).

The ancient Aghlabid Basins have provided Kairouan townspeople with water since the Middle Ages / JUTI | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Ninety-eight percent of Kairouans are Arab-Berber, with the remaining 2% made up of European and Jewish nationals. One of the holiest cities of Islam, Kairouan is an epicentre of Islamic faith for the whole North African region, and is historically known as ‘the City of 100 Mosques’. It’s an extremely devout city, as you might expect, and one where the call to prayer carries a special resonance. But the city’s medina, too, is a place where trade dominates nearly every aspect of city life – the city’s markets, along with its mosques, are Kairouan’s lifeblood. BEST TIME If you can, avoid July and August with their endless crowds and searing heat (ie average maximums of 37°C). June and September can be pretty warm, too, but at least they’re bearable. May and October are mild and lovely, while the winter months are downright chilly at night. Rains are likely on at least half of the days each month from September to April.

The stalls in the Souq el-Blaghija are empty after midday when the stallholders shut up shop / EFESENKO | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Coveting carpets woven by artisans in the medina, then picnicking with a feast of makhroud (honey-soaked pastry stuffed with dates) and other marketstall sweetmeats by the Aghlabid Basins’ 9th-century reservoirs, and finally admiring the breathtaking pillars and columns of the Roman and Byzantine buildings and Grande Mosquée by twilight. STRENGTHS • Grande Mosquée and its ancient minaret (said to be the oldest in the world) • Mosque of the Three Doors • Carpet museum • Zaouia of Sidi Abid el-Ghariani • Kasbah • Barber mosque – Zaouia Sidi Sahab • Makhroud WEAKNESSES • Unbearable summer heat • Relentless sales pitch in the markets

Monochromatic colours in the courtyard of the Sidi Abid el-Ghariani mausoleum / TRAVEL PICTURES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

GOLD STAR For Koran kudos – many Muslims, particularly Sunni Muslims, consider Kairouan to be Islam’s fourth-holiest city (after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem) and undertaking a pilgrimage here earns a Muslim considerable spiritual capital. STARRING ROLE IN… • Raiders of the Lost Ark (1984) • The Great Mosque of Kairouan by Paul Sebag • Sleepless Nights by Ali Duaji • Pillar of Salt by Albert Memmi • Will to Live by Abu el-Kacem el-Chabbi IMPORT • The pilgrim faithful • Byzantine and Roman buildings

• Tourists EXPORT • Carpets • Brasswork • Leatherwork • Handicrafts • Grain • Livestock • Olives • Thirteen centuries of Islamic culture • Berber cream shawls SEE the Mosque of the Three Doors, famous for the rare intertwined floral and Arabic inscriptions carved in its facade. EAT local delicacies at the Restaurant Sabra, a friendly, popular local eatery with a piercingly loud bird in a cage. DRINK espresso shots in school chairs in the delightful tree-shaded café of Hôtel Sabra. DO brave Kairouan’s side streets and get among the animated locals going about their daily lives. WATCH the fascinating flux of faithful pouring out of afternoon prayer at the Grande Mosquée on Friday afternoon. BUY exquisite hand-knotted pile Alloucha carpets, Kairouan’s local specialty, from one of the hundreds of shops in the medina’s souq (market). AFTER DARK hightail it out of the city walls to get a view from the outside as the sun sets over this mind-bogglingly ancient holy city.

URBAN TALE

Kairouan was established as a pilgrimage destination largely due to a legend that tells of a warrior’s horse discovering a golden goblet in the sands of Kairouan. It was recognised as a goblet that had disappeared from Mecca years before and, when it was extracted, a spring emerged from the ground. These gushing waters were claimed to have come from the same aqueduct feeding the sacred Zamzam well in Mecca.

A skilled artisan weaves textiles from an intricate loom / DBIMAGES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Kampala // Uganda Kampala strikes just the right balance for visitors between local flavour and international comforts, with a laidback temperament.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kampala DATE OF BIRTH: 1894; when it was declared a British protectorate, though tribes have inhabited the area since prehistoric times ADDRESS: Uganda (map 1, AA16) HEIGHT: 1312m SIZE: 176 sq km POPULATION: 1.7 million ANATOMY Like Rome, Kampala is said to be built on seven hills. Nakasero Hill, encompassing the city centre, is where much of the action is. Between Nakasero and the lower part of the city is downtown Kampala, a gritty but fascinating area of sprawling markets, chaotic bus stations and government buildings. North of here is the well-heeled suburb of Kololo, which has a relaxed feel with great international restaurants, bars and cafes. Boda bodas (motorcycle taxis) are the best way to get around, but they have a terrible safety record so only use one with a reliable driver recommended by your hotel, and wear a helmet. There are regular taxis, but you’ll likely spend a lot of time sitting in traffic.

Kampala’s busy central business district / TOM COCKREM | getty images

PEOPLE The majority of people in Kampala are from one of the 52 clans of the Buganda Kingdom, and Christianity is the predominant religion. There is also a small minority of Muslims, which once included Idi Amin, who converted to Islam to win financial support from Arab states in the 1970s. BEST TIME Aim to visit June to October when temperatures average around the 25°C/77°F mark, and there is minimal rainfall. A PERFECT DAY Experiencing the true chaotic energy of Kampala by immersing yourself the swarming Owino Market, perusing some 5000 stalls for second-hand clothes and all manner of goods, choosing material and having a tailor whip you up a new suit or dress on the spot, and enjoying the colour, atmosphere and great photo ops.

STRENGTHS • Safe and friendly • Multicultural restaurants • Proper African coffee • Easy access to Lake Victoria • Strong Buganda Kingdom culture • Plenty of green spaces • A vibrant arts scene WEAKNESSES • Traffic jams • Dangers of travelling on boda bodas • Ongoing anti-gay rhetoric GOLD STAR For perseverance: after Uganda’s many troubled years of war and political turmoil, Kampala is finally moving out of the dark shadows cast by the names of Idi Amin and Joseph Kony. It’s now a prosperous, model city regularly voted as the most liveable in East Africa. STARRING ROLE IN… • Victory at Entebbe (1976) • ABC Africa (2001) • The Last King of Scotland (2005) • God Loves Uganda (2013) IMPORT • English • Anti-gay sentiments (introduced first during British colonial rule, and recently perpetuated by visiting US evangelists) • Christianity • Commercial art galleries EXPORT • Traditional handicrafts • Coffee

• Tobacco • Nile perch SEE the sights associated with Buganda Kingdom, such as the Bulange Royal Building, to learn about Uganda’s largest kingdom. EAT a delicious, freshly cooked rolex (omelette rolled in chapati), the quintessential Ugandan street food. DRINK craft ales brewed onsite at Yasingi Beer Garden or single-origin coffees at 1000 Cups Coffee House. DO visit the Kasubi Tombs, the huge traditional reed and bark-cloth buildings trumpeted as the largest thatched mausoleum in Africa. WATCH the Ndere Troupe performing traditional Ugandan dances at the Ndere Centre. BUY bargain second-hand clothes at the vibrant Owino Market. AFTER DARK hit one of Kampala’s clubs: Iguana and Big Mike’s are faves.

URBAN TALE There’s no shortage of rumours and innuendos surrounding Uganda’s infamous tyrant, Idi Amin. Most involve talk of psychotic mood swings, or whispers of cannibal inclinations and keeping his rivals’ severed heads in his freezer. One source of intrigue and amusement to many is the official title that Amin bestowed upon himself: ‘His Excellency, President for Life, Field Marshal Al Hadji Doctor Idi Amin Dada, VC, DSO, MC, Lord of All the Beasts of the Earth and Fishes of the Seas and Conqueror of the British Empire in Africa in General and Uganda in Particular’. While he clearly never received a number of these awards (the Distinguished Service Order and Military Cross for instance), the VC is something he was awarded; but in this case it wasn’t the Victoria Cross, instead the

‘Victorious Cross’, a medal he both invented and awarded to himself.

Breakdancers work their moves on the city streets / NOVARC IMAGES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Kandy // Sri Lanka There’s more to Kandy than the Temple of the Tooth Relic, this sacred city forms the beating heart of Sinhalese Buddhist culture, tucked into lush green hills that perfectly frame its crenelated battlements and pagoda roofs.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kandy NICKNAME: Nuwara DATE OF BIRTH: Between 1357 and 1374, when King Vikramabahu III of Gambola founded a new capital beside Bogambara Lake ADDRESS: Sri Lanka (map 6, E11) HEIGHT: 500m SIZE: 28.5 sq km POPULATION: 125,400 ANATOMY The layout of Kandy is dictated by the landscape. The spiritual, and physical, centre of town is the Temple of the Tooth Relic, which looks out over the waters of Bogambara Lake. Kandy’s old colonial quarter lies just west of the temple walls, while the jungle-covered hills of the Udawattakelle Sanctuary run north and east. The remaining city districts are tucked between areas of greenery, squeezed into a tight bend in the Mahaweli Ganga river. The bus stand and train station are southeast of the lake, and buses and three-wheelers (tuk-tuks) zip people around downtown.

Peaceful Bogambara Lake / VERONICA LAM | 500PX

PEOPLE Kandy was the capital of the last Sinhalese Kingdom before Sri Lanka fell to British empire-builders, and around 75% of its citizens are ethnic Sinhalese, Sinhalese-speaking and Buddhist. Of the remaining Kandy citizens, some 11% are Sri Lankan Moors, who follow Islam, and around 10% are Hindu Tamils. English is also widely spoken – a hangover from Sri Lanka’s colonial days. BEST TIME The gods smile down on green and pleasant Kandy with generous rainfall for most of the year; the lowest chance of a drenching is from December to April, but visitors should still expect warm temperatures, high humidity and periodic showers.

Inside the Temple of the Tooth Relic / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Starting the day in meditative mood at dawn puja (prayers) at the Temple of the Tooth Relic, then settling in for breakfast at one of the cafes near Bogambara Lake, before tramping along the jungle trails of Udawattakelle Sanctuary in search of exotic birds and monkeys. STRENGTHS • Tangible spirituality • Proud Sinhalese culture • Centuries of history • An air of aristocracy • The Temple of the Tooth Relic • Beautiful Bogambara Lake • Lush greenery all around • The spectacle of the Esala Perahera procession • White-washed colonial architecture • Warm but rarely overpowering temperatures • Markets piled with produce from the hills WEAKNESSES • Traffic pollution • Tiresome touts in the centre • Scams and commission agents • High humidity – expect to get sweaty!

A mask maker finishes a work to be used in traditional dances / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For its gorgeous setting. Even when the traffic is at its worst and the touts at their most persistent, a sense of inner peace radiates from Kandy’s leafy, well-watered hills. To escape the hustle and bustle, hit the trails of Udawattakelle Sanctuary or wander along peaceful paths to serene temples just beyond the city limits. STARRING ROLE IN… • Elephant Walk (1954) • Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (1984) IMPORT • Buddhist pilgrims • Colonial habits • Tourists • Bird-watchers • Shiny brocade (for Perahera costumes) • Tea connoisseurs EXPORT • Sinhalese culture • Buddhist trinkets • Tropical fruit • Ceylon tea • Drummers and dancers • Politicians • Master cricketers SEE the revered dagoba-shaped casket containing the eponymous tooth of Buddha during puja (prayers) at the Temple of the Tooth Relic. EAT freshly prepared kotthu, roti bread chopped with special blades and fried, at Kandy Muslim Hotel. DRINK a properly mixed gin and tonic at sundown in the colonial courtyard

of the Royal Bar & Hotel. DO take a walk in the hills, either downtown in Udawattakelle Sanctuary, or south of the lake in the Hanthana Mountain Range. WATCH the frantic antics of the Esala Perahera, Sri Lanka’s most famous procession, led by an army of drummers, dancers and decorated elephants. BUY tropical fruit from the tropical hills in Kandy’s busy main market. AFTER DARK take in a show of Kandyan dancing and drumming – touristy, but with the lavish costumes, always a spectacle.

URBAN TALE With its gleaming white Buddha statue, the Bahirawakanda Temple is a Kandy landmark, but many visitors are unaware of the gruesome story of its origins. In medieval times, the green hills west of the lake were known as the haunt of a fearsome demon, Bahirawa, who could only be appeased by human sacrifices. Even Kandyan monarchs were not averse to leaving hapless maidens tied to stakes on the cursed hill to propitiate the beast, before the practice was abandoned in the British era.

Cabbage Palm Avenue, Peradeniya Botanic Gardens / STEVE LENNIE | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Kathmandu // Nepal The Nepali capital has seen its share of troubles across the centuries, from invading armies to the earthquakes which ravaged the country in 2015, but amazingly, its medieval core has changed only superficially since the time of Prithvi Narayan Shah.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kathmandu NICKNAME: The Doorway to the Himalaya DATE OF BIRTH: AD 723, when King Gunakamadeva founded his royal capital at Kantipur ADDRESS: Nepal (map 6, F5) HEIGHT: 1338m SIZE: 395 sq km POPULATION: 729,000 ANATOMY Sprawling around an isolated hill on what was once the bed of a prehistoric lake, Kathmandu is Nepal’s physical, political and cultural heart. On all sides, the soaring basin of the Kathmandu Valley thrusts skywards, dividing the capital from the rest of the country. Most people focus their attention on the historic old city, which spills in a tangle of narrow alleyways between Kantipath (the main north–south road) and the Vishnumati River. Taxis (cheap) and buses (crowded) shuttle to the villages and towns of the Kathmandu Valley; downtown, it’s often easier to walk.

Bodhnath, Asia’s largest stupa / Nora De Angelli | 500px

PEOPLE Kathmandu’s residents can trace their origins to the tribes who roamed the foothills of the Himalaya before modern maps were drawn. The Newar people – who rose to prominence under the warrior King Prithvi Narayan Shah – dominate, but many other tribes are represented and Tibetans make up a sizeable proportion of the population. Most Kathmandu citizens are Hindu or Buddhist, but beliefs frequently overlap and many temples are sacred to both religions. BEST TIME Come from October to November and March to April to avoid the soggy monsoon and the chill of deep winter, or ignore the weather and relish the spectacle of towering chariots and a public appearance by the living goddess Kumari during the Indra Jatra festival in September.

A Hindu deity adorns a temple / Jacek Kadaj | getty images

A PERFECT DAY Wandering around the medieval alleyways of the old town, ducking into hidden bahals (courtyards) to discover ornate stupas, secret temples and ancient statues that anywhere else would be locked in museums under armed guard. STRENGTHS • The backpacker playground of Thamel • Temples and palaces to spare • The haunting dignity of the cremation ghats at Pashupatinath • Majestic Swayambunath stupa • A constant tide of Buddhist pilgrims at Bodhnath • Awe-inspiring views of the Himalaya on the flight in and out WEAKNESSES • Legions of trekkers and travellers • Regular power cuts and ‘load shedding’

• Pollution and traffic congestion • Convoluted politics that regularly spill over into bandhs (strikes) • The predictable playlists of Kathmandu cover bands!

The shrines of Pashupatinath Hindu temple peep through the rooftops / Anton Petrus | getty images

GOLD STAR For having four Unesco World Heritage sites within the city limits (Durbar Sq, Swayambunath, Bodhnath and Pashupatinath) and two more a short hop away in Patan and Bhaktapur. STARRING ROLE IN… • Little Buddha (1993) • Everest (2015) • Doctor Strange (2016) • The Tutor of History by Manjushree Thapa • Escape from Kathmandu by Kim Stanley Robinson • The Guru of Love by Samrat Upadhyay • Arresting God in Kathmandu by Samrat Upadhyay

IMPORT • Hippies • Trekkers • Famous mountaineers • Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims • Chinese political advisors • Tibetan refugees • Petroleum, from India, when politics allow • NGOs and aid workers • Gold, for religious artworks EXPORT • Migrant workers to India and the Gulf • Gurkha soldiers • Handicrafts • Carpets made by Tibetan refugees • Yak wool shawls • Nepali tea SEE Mt Everest and its fellow snowpeaks up close from a wobbling Twin Otter turboprop on a scenic flight past the Himalaya. EAT momos (Tibetan dumplings) in canteens full of friendly Tibetans, or a lip-smacking post-trek pizza at Fire & Ice in Thamel. DRINK tongba (millet beer from the Eastern Himalaya) from bound wooden pots at rustic Nepali eateries in the backstreets. DO wander from the cremation ghats at Pashupatinath to the Buddhist stupa of Bodhnath, passing a forest of chaityas (Hindu lingam shrines) and curtains of fluttering prayer flags. WATCH devotees climbing the steps and dodging legions of monkeys before circumambulating the sacred stupa at Swayambunath. BUY Tibetan carpets, prayer wheels, singing bowls, Buddhist carvings and a host of other religious trinkets in the winding lanes of Thamel.

AFTER DARK swap trekking tales at New Orleans Cafe or sip a cold beer in the elegant surroundings of the Garden of Dreams.

URBAN TALE Not only does Kathmandu have countless gods, goddesses and deities, the city also has its own living goddess. Worshipped as a representation of female spiritual power, the Kumari Devi spends her childhood being revered by devotees inside the Kumari Bahal near Durbar Sq, but promptly vacates the palace on reaching puberty. The search then begins for her successor, selected from a pool of suitable children from the priestly Shakya and Bajracharya castes.

Young Tibetan Buddhist monks at prayer / Det-anan | shutterstock

Kigali // Rwanda Kigali will almost certainly surprise you. As the capital of one of Africa’s most successful and fast-developing nations, it points the way to Rwanda’s bright future.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kigali NICKNAME: Little Europe, Africa’s Singapore DATE OF BIRTH: 1907; when it was established under colonial rule as part of German East Africa ADDRESS: Rwanda (map 1, Z16) HEIGHT: 1567m SIZE: 730 sq km POPULATION: 1 million ANATOMY Kigali, like Rwanda itself, is incredibly hilly, which accounts for much of its beauty, but also makes it quite a challenge to get around on foot. It’s a massive, sprawling place, with many distinct districts that range from the swirling chaos of Nyabugogo to the refined mansions of Nyatutarama. The main downtown area is Kivoyu, and it’s here that tourists will most often base themselves. Mototaxis are an effortless, cheap and fun way to get around town.

Kigali streets are lush with greenery / ALEX NIRAGIRA | 500PX

PEOPLE Kigalians can be a difficult bunch to read. As with any population that’s been through massive trauma in living memory, people tend to be rather wary of outsiders and take a while to get to know. One thing that Kigalians certainly aren’t (officially, at least) is Tutsis or Hutus – since the end of the genocide all citizens are simply categorised as Rwandan, and it’s not considered polite to ask people about their ethnic background. Despite taking some time to let their guard down, Kigalians are some of the politest people you’ll ever meet: rarely do you go anywhere without being warmly met by smiles and a friendly greeting. BEST TIME The best time to visit, especially if you plan to combine Kigali with a gorilla safari, is during the long dry (mid-May to September) and short dry (midDecember to mid-March). In July, the Kigali Up festival showcases world music, traditional food and African arts. Although it’s often wet from midMarch to mid-May, there are fewer tourists and prices will drop.

The city’s restaurant scene is young but growing / TIM E WHITE | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Starting with breakfast at gorgeous Shokola with an impressive view over Kigali’s newest neighbourhoods, before wandering over to the Inema Arts Centre to see some local art for sale. Jumping onto a mototaxi to get to the excellent Kigali Memorial Centre for a sobering but important visit to Rwanda’s best museum. After lunching at Heaven, getting out of the city centre and taking a hike up Mt Kigali for some fantastic views of the city and plenty of local colour on the way. After wandering back down, heading to Khana Khazana for dinner and ending the evening in the nightlife-heavy district of Remera. STRENGTHS • Clean, tidy and orderly • The unrelenting chaos and noise of other central African cities is noticeably absent • Gorgeous natural setting of hills and mountains • Zipping about on the back of mototaxis • Varied and high-quality dining scene WEAKNESSES • All those hills can be utterly exhausting • Heavy traffic at rush hour • Touts in the city centre • Relentless security checks on entering buildings GOLD STAR For having such a wonderful mountainous setting and remaining temperate despite being almost on the equator. STARRING ROLE IN… • Hotel Rwanda (2004) IMPORT • German administrative zeal

• French sensibility • English, which recently became the official language of education • Conference-goers to the new Kigali Convention Centre EXPORT • Coffee • Tea • Animal skins • Traditional handicrafts SEE the Kigali Memorial Centre, which tells the horrific story of the Rwandan genocide of 1994 thoroughly and unemotionally. EAT brochettes, skewered pieces of meat or fish that are barbecued and served up at almost anywhere that sells beer. DRINK tamarillo juice, a sweet, non-alcoholic purple juice made from the tamarillo (tree tomato). DO an interesting walking tour of the city run daily by the Rwandan Development Board. WATCH local legends AS Kigali play football at the Nyamirambo Stadium. BUY some Rwandan craftwork souvenirs at Caplaki Craft Village. AFTER DARK head to the sweaty dance floor of Black & White Club for a night on the tiles dancing to Rwandan pop music.

URBAN TALE One of Kigali’s most moving sights is the Camp Kigali Memorial, a place where 10 Belgian peacekeepers were killed by Hutu extremists at the start of the Rwandan genocide in 1994. The Belgians first endured a shoot out, which lasted for several hours, and the buildings you can walk around remain exactly as they were that day. Ten columns were added to

the garden later, each one dedicated to the memory of a different soldier.

World-class Rwandan coffee is grown in the hills around Kigali / SHOULA | GETTY IMAGES

Kolkata // India Mumbai may have the money but Kolkata is India’s cultural heart and soul – the city on the Hooghly River produced all five of the country’s Nobel Prize winners, as well as India’s national poet and the nation’s most famous filmmaker.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kolkata NICKNAME: City of Joy DATE OF BIRTH: 1690; when it was founded as a trading post for the British East India Company; it later served as the capital of British India until 1912 ADDRESS: India (map 6, G7) HEIGHT: 6m SIZE: 1036 sq km POPULATION: 14 million ANATOMY Vast and sprawling, Kolkata traces the eastern bank of the Hooghly River, but the main focus of attention is the colonial quarter around BBD Bagh, and the market streets running east from Chowringhee Rd beside the huge Maidan park. A complicated one-way system that changes direction in the afternoon makes for slow journey. Taxis, crowded trolleybuses or the Metro (the oldest subway in Asia) are the way to get around.

The white marble fantasy of the Victoria Memorial / PUREPIX | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Bengali is the dominant language of Kolkata, and most citizens identify as Bengali first and anything else a distant second. Around 76% of the population is Hindu and 21% are Muslim, but Christians, Jains, Sikhs, Buddhists, and Adivasi people from the northeast are also represented. Despite its reputation for poverty, the city has produced a great wealth of literature, art, music and cinema. BEST TIME The monsoon hits Kolkata hard, and flooding from the Hooghly can make the streets impassable; visit in the dry months from October to April. During Durga Puja in late September or early October, the city is gripped with statuebuilding fever as citizens set up public shrines to honour the blood-thirsty goddess Durga.

Marigolds for sale at Mulik Ghat flower market / GRAHAM CROUCH | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Wandering the captivating bazaars along Rabindra Sarani, pausing to try on silk wedding outfits or twang the strings of a hand-made sitar, then heading to the river for a ferry trip across the Hooghly before popping down to Park St (also known as Mother Teresa Sarani) to find out what fine dining was like in Kolkata circa 1974. STRENGTHS • Faded colonial grandeur • The learned halls of the Indian Museum • Iconic Howrah Bridge • Slow boats along the Hooghly • Fine art, music and political discourse • The rich legacy of Rabindranath Tagore WEAKNESSES • Dubious budget accommodation • Noise pollution • Regular traffic jams • Monsoon flooding • Bandhs (strikes), which happen with monotonous regularity

The colour and chaos of Rabindra Sarani / STEVE RAYMER | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the Indian Museum – founded two centuries ago, it’s a treasure house of sculptures, paintings and religious artworks, arranged around an agreeably old-fashioned colonial building; check out the life-size reproduction of the Barhut Gateway, built by Bihari Buddhists in the 2nd century BC. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Calcutta Trilogy: Pratidwandi (1970), Seemabaddha (1971) and Jana Aranya (1976) • Devdas (2002) • Calcutta Chromosome by Amitav Ghosh • City of Joy by Dominique Lapierre • A Suitable Boy by Vikram Seth IMPORT • Hindus from East Bengal at Partition • Muslims from East Pakistan in the war of 1971

• Marxism • British-style bureaucracy • Mother Teresa and a legion of international volunteers EXPORT • Bengali sweets • Guru Sri Aurobindo • Nobel prize-winning author and national poet Rabindranath Tagore • Nobel prize-winning economist Amartya Sen • Film-maker Satyajit Ray • Writers William Makepeace Thackeray, Vikram Seth & Amitav Ghosh • Independence hero Subhas Chandra Bose SEE a Bengali or foreign art-house film at Kolkata’s prestigious Nandan Cinema. EAT sticky sweets made from curds, syrup and spices, Kolkata’s contribution to India’s cuisine, at a mistir dokan (sweet shop). DRINK a cocktail with your dinner at Peter Cat or one of the other classic 1970s eateries on Park St. DO catch Kolkata’s beautiful young things partying in their sequined finest at one of the city’s dance-clubs, before retiring to a shisha-bar for a reflective puff. WATCH the crowds stream over the Howrah Bridge at sunset, then wander the perfumed flower bazaar below. BUY beautifully made sitars, tablas, harmoniums and other Carnatic musical instruments from the workshops along Rabindra Sarani. AFTER DARK take in a mesmerising performance of Indian classical music at the Calcutta School of Music.

URBAN TALE

The Black Hole of Calcutta wasn’t a description of modern living conditions, but a tiny cell where some 70 prisoners from the British administration were crammed on a sticky, airless night in June 1756, after the nawab of Bengal seized the city to check British expansion. By morning, 43 of the captives had perished from heatstroke or suffocation. The outraged colonials responded in kind, seizing control of all of Bengal and killing the unfortunate nawab after the decisive Battle of Plassey.

Hand-pulled rickshaws still abound / SUMAN ROYCHOUDHURY | GETTY IMAGES

Kotor // Montenegro Montenegro’s most perfect bayside city has the air of a fairy-tale fortress thanks to gravity-defying city walls that cling stubbornly to the cliffside like a skinny, scaly dragon.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kotor DATE OF BIRTH: 168 BC, as the city of Acruvium under Roman rule ADDRESS: Montenegro (map 4, Q15) HEIGHT: 366m SIZE: 18,680 sq km POPULATION: 14,706 ANATOMY In the deepest embraces of the Bay of Kotor, an unassuming new town pools around an ancient heart, encircled by a fortified wall since medieval times. Across the road from the main Sea Gate are the calm bay waters, protecting its northwestern wall is the Škurda River, and backing the enclosed web of narrow lanes and squares of Stari Grad (the old town) is St John’s Hill, leading to the jabbing fist of Mt Lovćen. Access is via a spectacular singletrack bayside highway, or by boat.

The city nestles in the sheltering bowl of the Bay of Kotor / JULIAN LOVE | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Montenegrins, Serbs and Croats make up the vast majority of Kotor’s population; 75% of the town’s people are Orthodox Christians. BEST TIME The main arterial road around the Bay of Kotor is clogged in July and August, when the city also heaves with floods of cruise-ship tourists; June is the ideal time to visit for off-peak prices but warm days. A PERFECT DAY Taking coffee in a sociable square and grabbing a local cherry strudel before getting lost among the Stari Grad’s medieval labyrinthine lanes. Stopping at the Maritime Museum for a lesson in Kotor’s proud naval history before paying respects to the remains of St Tryphon – Kotor’s patron saint – at his 12th-century cathedral, then scaling the fortified town walls heavenwards for glorious, sweaty views over town.

STRENGTHS • Broad Trg od Oružja (Weapons Sq), where the lively chatter of coffeeswilling locals bounces off the old stone walls morning till night • Dinky wine shops supporting local vineyards, selling bargain quality reds • Fresh mountain air – those crags are close enough to start climbing • A virtually complete loop of fortified walls, walkable in stretches, that rise heavenwards up the looming mountains behind town • That lived-in feel; this is no museum town, and there is living history in its walls • Walkability: Kotor’s Stari Grad is a car-free haven • The back road to Mt Lovćen, one of Montenegro’s greatest drives – a series of switchbacks rising above Kotor, accessed from just outside the Stari Grad • Boka Night festival in August, when a crazy array of decorated boats parade in the bay WEAKNESSES • Summer cruise-ship crowds – complete with huge boats that blot the bay • Tacky souvenir ships • Smokey cafes and restaurants; although a smoking ban in public places officially exists, you’d never know it • Noisy summer nights, when Stari Grad accommodation can require ear plugs GOLD STAR For an inspired plan to resurrect an early 20th-century cable car that will link the coast, the mountains and nearby Cetinje along a 15km cable from Kotor. If built, it will surely be one of the most spectacular viewing platforms in the Balkans. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Dark Side of the Sun (1988) • L’Homme qui voulait vivre sa vie (The Big Picture, 2010) • Black Lamb and Grey Falcon by Rebecca West IMPORT • Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians

• Venetian style: evident in the palazzos, piazzas and marbled lanes EXPORT • Rainbow trout • Actor and composer Tripo Simonuti • Pianist Ratimir Martinovic SEE lesser-visited corners of the Stari Grad around the River Gate in the north and Gurdić Gate in the south, where locals string washing out along their windows. EAT local pršut (smoke-dried ham) and sir (smoked cheese, sometimes pimped with walnuts and pistachios) at the local-produce market under the fortified walls. DRINK at the Citadella bar atop the fortified walls, betwixt bay and brooding massif with a sea of rooftops at wine-glass level. DO take a boat tour or hire a kayak for watery escapades skimming the bay. WATCH local cobblers craft opanci (traditional Balkan peasant shoes made of woven leather) in a Stari Grad workshop. BUY an antique Balkan carpet from one of the city’s many vintage emporiums. AFTER DARK find a good vantage point across the water to marvel at the glittering halo of Kotor’s almost-vertical fortified wall, which seems to hover ethereally above town when lit up at night.

URBAN TALE Kotor’s history is marred by so many devastating earthquakes that time is often divided into periods between quakes. The largest was in 1667, which shattered Kotor and many of its architectural glories, destroying two-thirds of the city including St Tryphon’s Cathedral; the most recent

was in 1979.

Boats at rest in Kotor’s harbour / LUIS DAFOS | ALAMY stock photo

Kraków // Poland Kraków is a whimsical, beautiful city: tatters of the iron curtain can still be found in the city’s grey, identikit suburbs, but these only throw into relief the pale, lazy loops of the Vistula River, or the flower stalls, which make the centre of the Old Town and its marketplace so vivid.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kraków NICKNAME: Royal City DATE OF BIRTH: 7th century AD, when settlement was first recorded here, but official mentions date to 965 AD ADDRESS: Poland (map 4, R9) HEIGHT: 219m SIZE: 327 sq km POPULATION: 762,400 ANATOMY Relatively flat, save for some scattered rocky formations, Kraków is bisected by the Vistula River, Poland’s longest river (wending its way 1047km to the Baltic). Most districts, including the historic quarter, are on the northern, left bank and very walkable. The Old Town is only 800m wide and 1200m long, with Rynek Główny, the main market square, in the middle. Buses and trams are used to travel further out.

Rynek Główny, the Old Town’s medieval market square / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Kraków is a prosperous place with one of Poland’s highest employment rates, rising wages, and an educated population. Ethnically homogeneous, Poles make up 98% of Kraków’s population – though an annual eight million foreign visitors mix things up a little. About 95% of the population is Roman Catholic, while about 150 practising Jews remain in the city (compared with around 60,000 in the 1930s). An increasing number of Poles are discovering that they are ‘lost Jews’, whose Jewish heritage was concealed during the war. Only a few go on to actively practise Judaism, though the city’s former Jewish quarter, Kazimierz, is experiencing a renaissance of Jewish food and music.

The charming interior of Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu restaurant / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Between May and July, you can expect bright sunshine and events including Photomonth, the soup festival, film festival and Jewish Cultural Festival, though December sets the main square twinkling with Christmas lights and markets. STRENGTHS • Wawel Palace • Czartoryski Museum • Rynek Główny, especially star-spangled St Mary’s Church • Cloth Hall • The jazz scene • Revived Kazimierz Jewish district • Day trips to Wieliczka salt mine • A vast collection of artworks • Oskar Schindler’s Factory • Milk bars, cheap and cheerful eateries • Wierzynek, one of Poland’s oldest restaurants, dating from 1364 • Increasingly trendy Podgorze district WEAKNESSES • Pigeons • Noisy foreign stag parties • Pickled cabbage with everything • Slow restaurant service GOLD STAR For medieval splendour – Rynek Główny is the largest medieval town square in Poland (and reputedly in all of Europe), and features the elegant Cloth Hall. The 1257 layout has been retained to this day; the facades might look Neoclassical, but most of the buildings are much older. STARRING ROLE IN…

• La double vie de Véronique (The Double Life of Véronique, 1991) • Schindler’s List (1993) • The Kommandant’s Girl by Pam Jenoff IMPORT • Musician Nigel Kennedy • Karol Wojtyła (later Pope John Paul II) • Soviet-style architecture • Oskar Schindler • Lady with the Ermine by Leonardo da Vinci • Slow food • Australian-style coffee EXPORT • Pope John Paul II • Bagels • Aromatic bisongrass vodka • Copernicus • Film-maker Roman Polanski • Author Joseph Conrad • Musician Zbigniew Preisner SEE the domes, spires, manicured gardens and art museums of Wawel Hill. Don’t miss a trip into the resident dragon’s lair. EAT venison with mushrooms, duck with apple and cinnamon, or plump pierogi (dumplings) at refined Pod Baranem restaurant. DRINK beer (Żywiec or Okocim) or szarlotka, a cocktail of bisongrass vodka, apple juice and cinnamon. DO make the trip to Auschwitz: visiting this former Nazi concentration camp is emotionally tough, but unforgettable. WATCH experimental theatre (knowledge of the language is not necessary). BUY amber in striking colours – from ivory and pale yellow to green and red

– in the Cloth Hall. AFTER DARK visit vaulted cellar pubs and bars in the Old Town, and edgy haunts in Kazimierz, from Soviet-themed cafes to terrace bars.

URBAN TALE According to legend, once upon a time there lived a powerful prince, Krak or Krakus, who built a castle on a hill named Wawel on the banks of the Vistula and founded a town named after himself. It would have been paradise if not for a dragon living in a cave underneath the castle. The wise prince ordered a sheep’s hide to be filled with sulphur, which was set alight, and the whole thing was hurled into the cave. The voracious beast devoured the bait in one gulp, only then feeling the sulphur burning in its stomach. The dragon rushed to the river, and drank and drank and finally exploded.

The aptly named Old Synagogue, home to the Kraków Jewish Museum / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Kuala Lumpur // Malaysia A vibrant and forward-looking city where crumbling heritage buildings sit in the shadow of gleaming skyscrapers, KL accommodates the age-old traditions of its Malay, Chinese and Indian populations amid the buzz of a modern metropolis.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kuala Lumpur NICKNAME: KL DATE OF BIRTH: 1857; when a troupe of tin prospectors landed at the junction of the Klang and Gombak Rivers and dubbed it Kuala Lumpur (muddy confluence) ADDRESS: Malaysia (map 6, J12) HEIGHT: 39m SIZE: 243 sq km POPULATION: 1.5 million ANATOMY KL’s historical heart is Merdeka Sq, where every Monday the national flag is raised up a 100m flagpole, while glitzy Bukit Bintang (Star Hill) – packed with upscale shopping malls – represents modern KL. The Petronas Towers (the tallest twin buildings in the world) are dazzling beacons that pay homage to the city’s meteoric rise to 21st-century metropolis. Southeast of Merdeka Sq lies bustling Chinatown, with its atmospheric temples and lip-smackingly good street food, and southward is Masjid Negara (National Mosque) and the historic KL train station. Stretching west is KL’s ‘green belt’: the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park, a lush landscaped park also known as the Lake Gardens. KL’s maze of motorways can frustrate pedestrians – it’s often easier to nab a cab or jump on the LRT (Light Rail Transit) or monorail.

Petronas Towers and skyline from Kampung Baru / NUR ISMAIL MOHAMMED | 500PX

PEOPLE Kuala Lumpur has a diverse population made up 46% Malays, 43% Chinese, 10% Indians and 1% other groups; its citizens are respectful and tolerant of different beliefs and cultural practices. The official national language is Bahasa Melaysia, and other languages spoken are Hokkien, Cantonese, Hakka, Teochew, Tamil, Telugu and English. Muslims, Buddhists, Hindus, Sikhs and Christians all form part of KL’s rich tapestry. BEST TIME Since KL is close to the equator, the temperature is a balmy 28-32°C yearround. There’s always a chance of a torrential tropical rain storm, but the wettest months are from November (when it rains up to 20 days of the month) through to March; the driest months are June and July. The city’s most vibrant religious festivals follow the lunar calendar: Chinese New Year, Thaipusam, Hari Raya and Deepavali are marked by festivities, fireworks and an abundance of traditional foods.

Petaling Street Market, where you can buy and eat just about anything / TOM BONAVENTURE | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Picnicking at the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park among butterflies, birds and orchids, climbing level with the tree tops on the canopy walkway at the KL Forest Eco Park and then whizzing up to the dizzying heights of the Menara KL viewing deck, topped off by a balmy banquet and good-natured haggling at the night market. STRENGTHS • Multiculturalism and diversity • Inner-city jungle reserve at Bukit Nanas • Dazzling Petronas Towers • Local colour and vibrancy • Hawker markets and street-food stalls • Heritage buildings and cutting-edge architecture • Chinatown • Little India

• Luscious gardens • Bargain-hunting • Nearby Batu Caves • Bustling fresh produce markets WEAKNESSES • Dripping humidity (though great for orchids) • Traffic congestion and narrow streets • Lack of footpaths/sidewalks • Flash flooding and thunderstorms • Seasonal haze • The prevalence of ‘mall culture’

The former Istana Negara (National Palace) is now the Royal Museum / JOE RAVI | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For cheap, delicious and culturally diverse food – a hearty meal can be found in any one of KL’s nooks, crannies and basements.

STARRING ROLE IN… • Entrapment (1999) • Connecting Faith (2004) • The Big Durian (2004) IMPORT • Indian teh tarik (pulled tea) • British manicured gardens • Moorish, Islamic and Buddhist architecture • Rampant consumer culture • Korean coffee shops • Street art • Chinese traditional medicine EXPORT • PGA golfer Danny Chia • Hollywood star Michelle Yeoh • Exquisite pewter objects • Rubber • Palm oil • Orchids • Textiles • Electrical goods SEE the city lights from the Petronas Towers before getting a ride an hour northwest of KL to see the natural light show of kelip-kelip (fireflies) in the mangroves, best viewed on a river tour from Kuala Selangor. EAT bak kut teh (a broth containing pork ribs and spices) from Madras Lane hawker stalls. DRINK a sundowner while taking in glittering city views from one of KL’s dizzying rooftop bars. DO take a boat ride in the shadow of the city skyline in the peaceful surrounds of Titiwangsa Lake Gardens.

WATCH the Lake Symphony fountains play in front of the Petronas Towers at the KLCC park. BUY local handicrafts and batik prints and at the Central Market. AFTER DARK seek out the city’s under-the-radar, speakeasy style cocktail bars in Chinatown.

URBAN TALE It is rumoured that people have suffered strokes, aneurisms and heart attacks from mixing durian fruit (a popular if very malodorous treat) with alcohol. Purportedly, a deadly yeast can result when the two are added together. This is all unproven, and for the unseasoned but daring traveller, the best precaution taken before quaffing a durian-infused cocktail would be a peg on the nose.

Ornate statues in Sri Mahamariamman Temple / INTI ST CLAIR | GETTY IMAGES

Kyiv // Ukraine Kyiv has seen two revolutions since Ukraine’s independence in 1991. But in spite of political turmoil, it is an elegant, forward-thinking and very green city that is also rich in the treasures of history and culture.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kyiv NICKNAME: Northern Rome DATE OF BIRTH: AD 5-6; the origins of the city are disputed, but according to official Soviet history the city was founded at this time ADDRESS: Ukraine (map 4, W9) HEIGHT: 179m SIZE: 780 sq km POPULATION: 2.5 million ANATOMY Kyiv’s city centre and old city are on the western bank of the Dnipro River, while high-rise residential blocks sit on the eastern bank. The city’s wide boulevards are lined with a curious mix of architecture that reflects the rich historical influences in the capital: from baroque and Art Nouveau to Stalinera Monumentalism. The Kyiv Metro is a good way to get around, with river cruises, buses and car hire also available.

Fascinating Kyivo-Pecherska Lavra overlooks the Dnipro River / ZALAZOV | 500PX

PEOPLE The capital’s population is composed of a Ukrainian majority (about 78%), as well as approximately 17% Russians, and many smaller groups. The predominant language is Russian though everyone is bilingual, with many also speaking English these days. Most residents formally belong to competing Orthodox churches, but religion has little importance in everyday life. All of Ukraine pours into Kyiv looking for jobs, money and social lifts, but a distinct Kyivan identity is still very much alive, with locals known for being friendly, chatty and humorous. BEST TIME Sunny, warm weather with an occasional rainstorm, Kyiv’s trademark chestnut trees in full bloom, cafes setting up summer terraces – late April and early May is a lovely time to visit. It only gets better towards the of June when the world’s sweetest cherries and watermelons start pouring into the city’s markets and water in the Dnipro is warm enough for a quick dip. It’s also worth visiting for Independence Day celebrations on 24 August, with

military parades and colourful street events.

The elaborate interior of Vydubychi Monastery / ROBERTHARDING | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Gazing at the sweeping view of the Dnipro from Mariinsky Park, checking out medieval frescoes at St Sophia Cathedral and mummies in the underground maze of Kyivo-Pecherska Lavra, descending the winding, historic Andriyivsky uzviz, and attending a high-stakes match featuring local football team, Dynamo Kyiv. STRENGTHS • Revolutionary spirit • Cheap, excellent food • The Montparnassian feel of Andriyivsky uzviz • Makeshift memorials to 2014 revolution heroes on Instytutska • Great Patriotic War Museum • Independence Sq • Pyrohovo Museum of Folk Architecture • River cruises • Elegant and inventive restaurants • Shevchenko Opera & Ballet Theatre WEAKNESSES • Outdated infrastructure • Patriotic paranoia • Swinging glass doors on the metro • Confusing street numbers GOLD STAR For Kyivo-Pecherska Lavra. With the earliest buildings dating from AD 1051, this monumental monastery is clustered with gold-domed churches, museums and monks’ quarters. Underground is an intriguing labyrinth of caves lined with the naturally preserved bodies of monks. STARRING ROLE IN… • Est-ouest (East-West, 2000) • A Prayer for Hetman Mazepa (2002)

• Mamai (2003) • Defending the Honour of Kyiv by Andy Dougan • The White Guard by Mikhail Bulgakov IMPORT • Williamsburg hipster culture • Foreign advisors • Second-hand Bundeswehr uniforms • Eurovision Song Contest • SUVs and luxury cars EXPORT • Chocolate from the president’s own factory • Good vodka • Fashion models and a James Bond girl • Football and boxing stars • Chicken Kiev SEE the rotating exhibits at this world-class PinchukArtCentre. EAT modern Ukrainian food at Kanapa, one of Kyiv’s best restaurants with a superb location. DRINK coffee from espresso machines installed in the boot of a car. DO meet at the ever-lively and noisy, fountain-filled Independence Sq, the meeting place it seems for every citizen in Kyiv, day or night. WATCH the ‘walruses’ (swimmers) wake up to themselves with a winter swim in the freezing Dnipro River. BUY tasty Kievsky tort (a nutty, layered sponge) at the train-station stalls. AFTER DARK go on a quest to find Ostannia Barrikada, then taste Ukrainian beer and stronger liquors in this excellent restaurant/bar.

URBAN TALE The enormous sword-wielding iron woman rising above the bank of the Dnipro is the Soviet-era statue of Motherland. Once a year, on 9 May, she bangs the sword on her shield and the sound can be heard all across Kyiv, or so locals say to make fun of uninitiated visitors. But it is true that there is an elevator inside the body of the statue and tourists can go all the way into her head to admire sweeping views of the city.

The National Opera of Ukraine plays host to an elegant ball / KATERYNA LARINA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Kyoto // Japan With its sublime Zen gardens, centuries-old temples and geisha disappearing around corners, Kyoto, the cultural heart of the country, is every cliché hunter’s Japanese fantasy.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Kyoto DATE OF BIRTH: 7th century AD; little more than a vast plain, Kyoto – then known as Yamashiro-no-kuni – became home to the Hata clan from Korea ADDRESS: Japan (map 6, R3) HEIGHT: 41m SIZE: 610 sq km POPULATION: 1.5 million ANATOMY The city is divided into five sections designating the central (raku-chu), eastern (raku-to), northern (raku-hoku), western (raku-sai) and southern (raku-nan) areas, plus raku-gai, the city’s outskirts. With a rectangular grid system, it’s easy to navigate. The main business district is in the south and centre; the less populated northern parts have a greener feel, with rice fields sandwiched between apartment buildings. Although many major sights are in the centre, the best sightseeing is on the fringes in the north, east and west. It’s easy to get around by walking, cycling, taking the bus or subway.

Glowing ‘Golden Pavilion’ of Kinkaku-ji / BULE SKY STUDIO | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Kyoto is home to one of the largest concentrations of colleges and universities in Japan, and about 10% of the population are students, however, most students leave after graduation for the bigger economic centres of Tokyo and Osaka. There is a significant population of Japanese-Koreans living here, particularly in the neighbourhood south of Kyoto station, and smaller groups of Americans and Chinese. The city has a strong Buddhist culture, and residents speak the Kyoto dialect of Japanese. BEST TIME Spring and autumn are the best seasons to see Kyoto in all its cherry-blossom and maple-leaf glory and this also translates into the busiest, and most expensive, times to visit. Securing accommodation can be difficult. The cherry blossom season is usually late March to April while November is when the fiery maple leaves come out in force. June to August can get insanely hot and humid, when temple hopping can turn into an exhausting chore.

A foxy guardian at Fushimi Inari-Taisha shinto shrine / LOTTIE DAVIES | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Visiting Nanzen-ji temple and its expansive grounds, including the classic Zen garden, then viewing cherry blossoms in bloom along the Path of Philosophy before relaxing in a sentō (public bath) as a prelude to an evening stroll past restaurants, bars and teahouses in atmospheric Ponto-chō. STRENGTHS • Japan’s cultural treasure-house – 17 ancient structures and gardens are World Heritage sites • Over 1600 Buddhist temples • Over 400 Shintō shrines • Three palaces • Cherry-blossom viewing (late March to April) • Nightlife in Ponto-chō and Gion’s ‘floating world’ • A calendar full of matsuri (festivals) • Striking Kyoto station architecture • Dozens of gardens and museums WEAKNESSES • Ugly urban development • Destruction of historic kyō-machiya (wooden townhouses) • Stifling hot and humid summers and cold winters

Kyoto’s glorious cherry blossoms / LOTTIE DAVIES | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For Kinkaku-ji’s breathtaking beauty as the sun shimmers on the famous ‘Golden Pavilion’ and the temple reflects in its own pond. STARRING ROLE IN… • Rashômon (1950) • Sisters of Nishijin (1952) • Ai no corrida (In the Realm of the Senses, 1976) • The Pillow Book (1996) • Katakuri-ke no kôfuku (The Happiness of the Katakuris, 2001) IMPORT • Western junk food

• Soccer • Baseball • Doughnuts • Foreign artists, musicians, teachers, scholars, writers and people ‘just passing through’ • Whisky • Starbucks • Tourists EXPORT • The sensu (folding fan) • Kyoto Protocol to reduce greenhouse-gas emissions • Kiyomizu-yaki ceramics • Nintendo • Film director Jūzō Itami • Kyocera cameras • Kyō-ryōri (cuisine emphasising subtlety, utilising fresh seasonal vegetables) • Shōjin-ryōri (vegetarian cuisine with origins in Buddhist asceticism) • Film director Oshima Nagisa • Kyō-yūzen (silk-dyeing method) • Kyō-komon (stencil dyeing) • Kyō-ningyo (handcrafted dolls) • Kyō-kanoko shibori (tie-dyeing), from the 6th century (slightly before Grateful Dead fans rediscovered it) SEE a panoramic 360-degree view of the city from Kyoto Tower. EAT creative kaiseki cuisine in elegant surrounds at Kikunoi. DRINK Kyoto craft beer at the open-air Bungalow bar. DO wander around the weird and wonderful food stalls at Nishiki Market. WATCH a traditional kabuki performance at Minami-za, the oldest kabuki theatre in Japan. BUY contemporary arts and crafts by local designers at Kyoto Design House.

AFTER DARK discover the ‘floating world’ (night-time pleasures) of traditional entertainment areas Gion and Ponto-chō.

URBAN TALE Kyoto’s fortune in escaping US bombing during WWII is commonly believed to be due to American scholar Langdon Warner, said to have urged US military authorities to spare the city, thereby preserving its artistic and historical treasures. Despite this popular account, other theories have surfaced, along with documentation pointing to an elaborate conspiracy to quell anti-American sentiment. Some historians now suggest that, in fact, Kyoto was on a list of 180 cities earmarked for air raids, and was also a prime target for atomic annihilation.

A woodblock print at Takezasado workshop / JONATHAN GREGSON | LONELY PLANET

La Paz // Bolivia The first glimpse of La Paz will literally take your breath away. From the surrounding plains the earth drops away, revealing, 400m below, the sprawling city filling the canyon. With its high altitude and quirky beauty, La Paz is dizzying in every respect.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: La Paz DATE OF BIRTH: 1548; La Ciudad de Nuestra Señora de La Paz (City of Our Lady of Peace) was founded and named by Spanish Captain Alonzo de Mendoza ADDRESS: Bolivia (map 1, N18) HEIGHT: 3658m SIZE: 7 sq km POPULATION: 1.5 million ANATOMY There’s only one major thoroughfare in La Paz, called the Prado, and it follows the Río Choqueyapu canyon. Away from the Prado and its extensions, streets climb steeply uphill and many are cobbled or unpaved. Above the downtown skyscrapers, the adobe neighbourhoods and the informal commercial areas climb towards the city of El Alto, perched on the canyon’s rim. La Paz is well served by public transport: choose between micros (buses) and trufis (either cars or minibuses).

La Paz climbs the walls of Río Choqueyapu canyon / SIVA VASANTH | 500PX

PEOPLE More than half of the city’s population claims pure indigenous heritage; there is also a significant proportion with African heritage, mostly descendants of slaves conscripted to work in the Potosí silver mines. The remainder of are largely of European extraction: as well as descendants of the early Spanish conquerors there are Mennonite colonies, Jewish and Eastern European refugees and hordes of researchers, aid workers and missionaries. Spanish and Quechua are the official languages; Aymara is also spoken. Religion is an important part of the culture and some 80% of the populace is Roman Catholic. The people of La Paz are hard working but generally underemployed, and suffer from substandard housing, nutrition, education and sanitation. Notwithstanding, visitors generally find them to be vibrant and positive, especially during fiesta time. BEST TIME The winter ‘dry’ season here extends from May to October and is the best time to visit, although this is also the high season for tourists. Corpus Christi (May/June) and Virgen del Carmen (16 July) are holidays that take place during this period and which equal colourful folkloric parades.

Local cholitas wear Aymaran clothing / JOHN COLETTI | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Starting your day with a salteña (meat-filled pastry) around Plaza Isabel La Católica – the perfect spot for watching the world’s highest city wake up, then strolling the historic cobblestone streets around Iglesia de San Francisco or wandering the nearby Artesanía Alley (Calle Linares) and Mercado de Hechicería (Witches’ Market) while shopping for fine alpaca wear. STRENGTHS • El Alto’s sprawling markets • Ancient ruins of Tiahuanaco • Peñas (folk-music venues) • Museo de la Coca • Trendy Zona Sur • Urmiri’s hot springs • The world’s highest downhill skiing on the slopes of Chacaltaya • Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead, or All Souls’ Day) • Valle de las Ánimas • The Cañón de Palca (aka Quebrada Chua Keri) gorge • The teleferico (cable car) for stunning views WEAKNESSES • 70% of the population below the poverty line • Soroche (altitude sickness) • Machismo • Low literacy rate • Pollution

A carving from the ancient ruins of Tiwanaku, a great day trip from La Paz / DANIEL NISTTAHUZ | 500PX

GOLD STAR For the Prado – on Sunday afternoon, when traffic is restricted and the city empties out, the Prado hosts promenading families, and the sidewalks fill with balloon and candy-floss sellers, and people renting kites, bicycles and toy cars. STARRING ROLE IN… • Woman of Courage (1993) • A Question of Faith (1996) • Morder el Silencio (The Biting Silence) by Arturo von Vacano • Los Fundadores del Alba (The Breach) by Renato Prada Oropeza IMPORT • Bowler hats • Missionaries • Ice cream

• Fútbol (football) • Roman Catholicism • Non-governmental organisations (NGOs) • Mennonites EXPORT • Marina Núñez del Prado, sculptor • Gold • Coffee • Weaving • Traditional chola dress • Alpaca sweaters • Simón Bolívar • Potosí silver SEE the cityscape on a clear, dark night appearing like a mirrored reflection of the glittering sky. EAT llama medallions with mushroom sauce at Tambo Colonial and enjoy the live music. DRINK maté, a herbal tea made from the coca leaf, which helps combat altitude sickness. DO explore the Mercado de Hechicería (the Witches’ Market) and pick yourself up a protective talisman or herbal potion. WATCH a folklore show at the Teatro Municipal Alberto Saavedra Pérez – a restored building with a round auditorium, elaborate balconies and a vast ceiling mural. BUY fine woven wares from the stalls lining Calle Linares. AFTER DARK attend a peña, or community meeting place, for a taste of traditional Andean music, rendered on zampoñas, quenas and charangos.

URBAN TALE It’s official: the road between La Paz and Coroico is ‘the World’s Most Dangerous Road’ (WMDR), according to an Inter-American Development Bank report. Given the number of fatal accidents that occur on it, the moniker is well deserved. An average of 26 vehicles per year disappear over the edge into the great abyss; lining the road you can see a harrowing number of crosses marking the spots.

Cycling the World’s Most Dangerous Road, with its amazing views, is a popular activity / FILROM | GETTY IMAGES

Lahore // Pakistan This most Pakistani of cities is studded with the relics of vanished empires – Mughal mosques and palaces, Sikh and Hindu monuments and faded institutions of the Raj.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Lahore NICKNAME: Heart of Pakistan DATE OF BIRTH: AD 630; the first reliable reference was in the writings of Chinese traveller Hsuan Tsnag ADDRESS: Pakistan (map 6, D4) HEIGHT: 217m SIZE: 185 sq km POPULATION: 8.9 million ANATOMY The second-largest city in Pakistan, Lahore spreads across an alluvial plain near the Ravi River, just 24km from the Indian border. The city was the capital of British Punjab before Independence, and street names recall the Raj – The Mall cuts a broad transect through the old colonial quarter, passing the administrative hub of Charing Cross. To the north, the unimaginatively named Circular Rd wraps around the tangled bazaars of the Old City, which lead inexorably towards the Badshahi Mosque and the towering battlements of Lahore Fort. Taxis and frequent buses and minibuses are handy for longer trips; to explore the Old City, stroll or take an autorickshaw.

Lahore Grand Mosque as seen from the balcony of Lahore Fort at sunset / NADEEM WAJAHAT/KOOVOO | 500PX

PEOPLE Lahore is dominated by the Punjabi ethnic group but the city hosts growing numbers of migrants and refugees from Afghanistan. Around 94% of the population are Muslim, but 6% of residents are Christian, and there are tiny, dwindling Sikh and Zoroastrian communities. Almost all of Lahore’s historically large Hindu population fled south into India at Partition. Around 86% of residents speak Punjabi, but Urdu is the national language and English is widely used for official purposes. BEST TIME Explore Lahore in the dry winter months from October to May, when temperatures are balmy but not stifling. During late January or early February, depending on the lunar calendar, the skies over Lahore are painted into a rainbow by thousands of kites for the Basant Festival. A PERFECT DAY

Lazily reading in the restful garden of the Raj-era Jinnah Library, then riding an autorickshaw across town to be struck dumb by the magnificence of Lahore Fort, before catching your breath in the grand courtyard of the Badshahi Mosque. STRENGTHS • Open and friendly locals • Talented local artisans • Loads of civic gardens • Haunting qawwali songs • Skies full of kites, especially during the Basant festival • Magnificent Mughal architecture • The grand tombs of sultans and emperors • The atmosphere of devotion at Badshahi Mosque • Formidable Lahore Fort WEAKNESSES • The lack of peace and quiet • Traffic chaos • Crowds • Pollution • Oppressive rain during the monsoon (July to September) • Winter fog grounding flights GOLD STAR For Mughal history. Lahore was the birthplace of Shah Jahan, perhaps the most prolific builder of the Mughal dynasty, responsible for the Taj Mahal, Delhi’s Red Fort and Lahore’s jewel-box Wazir Khan Mosque, as well as the most lavish pavilions in Lahore Fort. The epically proportioned Badshahi Mosque, the largest mosque in the world in its time, was the pet project of his son, the emperor Aurangzeb. STARRING ROLE IN… • Bhowani Junction (1956) • Earth (1998) • Veer Zaara (2004)

• The Reluctant Fundamentalist (2012) • Moth Smoke by Mohsin Hamid IMPORT • Gasoline and tea • International aid workers • Spies and smugglers • Cricket • Foreign currency, through the hawala banking system EXPORT • Afghan, Turkoman, Persian and Caucasian carpets • The films of Lollywood, hub of Pakistan’s film industry • Punjabi restaurateurs • Medical professionals • Singer Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan • World-class cricketers • Mughal emperor Shah Jahan SEE the wildly ecstatic spectators as you take in an international cricket match at Qaddafi Stadium. EAT boti (grilled lamb), chapli (spiced beef) and shami (meat and chickpea) kebabs, served sizzling hot by vendors at Gowal Mandi. DRINK chai (sweet Pakistani tea) or cooling salted lassis (yoghurt shakes) – beverages of choice in dry Pakistan. DO join the qawwali singers who congregate at the shrine of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri for an evening of haunting Sufi melodies. WATCH the outlandish pomp and circumstance at the daily closing of the India-Pakistan border at Attari-Wagah, south of town. BUY a traditional Punjabi dhol (drum), tabla set or sitar from the skilled instrument-makers at Langay Bazaar.

AFTER DARK seek out Lahore’s underground nightclubs, where dancing, rather than alcohol, is the main attraction.

URBAN TALE This ancient city is steeped in legend, but one story that inspires particular enthusiasm is the tale of the baradari of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. This elegant pavilion was constructed to celebrate the acquisition of the Koh-i-Noor diamond as spoils of war from the Afghan King Shah Shuja. The defeated Shuja predicted that a diamond seized by force would be taken by force, and so it came to pass as the British requisitioned the stone and hacked it up to adorn the British Crown Jewels. As for Shuja, he staged an impressive escape through the sewers of Lahore to freedom.

Iqbal Park, with the Minar-i-Pakistan monument in the background, is a popular spot for cricket / CHRISTOPHER PILLITZ | GETTY IMAGES

Las Vegas // USA There’s nowhere like Vegas, baby – come here to marry a stranger you met on the plane, gamble until sunrise or just lap up the glorious oddness and kitsch of the whole place.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Las Vegas NICKNAME: Sin City DATE OF BIRTH: 1821; when Antonio Armijo took a detour en route to Los Angeles, but Native American settlements have been here since ancient times ADDRESS: USA (map 2, D8) HEIGHT: 612m SIZE: 352 sq km POPULATION: 628,711 (city), 1.9 million (metro area) ANATOMY Dominated by the world-famous Strip (or Las Vegas Blvd to purists), the city can seem to be little else for those just in town for a few days. But Las Vegas proper is centred on Fremont St and the downtown area to the north of the big hotel-casino complexes of the Strip. Taxis are plentiful, and you can also get around on public buses, the modern monorail and free trams. For pedestrians, the Strip has elevated skybridges across busy intersections, but remember that the Strip is more than four miles long – don’t assume you can walk easily between casino hotels.

Bright as day: the lights of Las Vegas strip as seen from the Cosmopolitan / KRIS DAVIDSON | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Nearly 30% of Las Vegans work in hospitality, so the population both avoids the tourist crowds on the Strip and needs those cash-bearing visitors to survive. Ethnically the population is mostly white, but there’s a growing immigrant population choosing to settle in Las Vegas, drawn by the gilded promises this flashy corner of America has to offer. For fun, Las Vegans love their sport and many spend their time hanging out downtown, and so experiencing a very different lifestyle from that enjoyed by most visitors to the city. BEST TIME There’s always something going on in Vegas, but most of the major productions shut down the week before Christmas. Winter (November to February) can be cold and only the heartiest venture into the heat during the dog days of summer (June to August). The city’s biggest festival kicks off in June with Electric Daisy Carnival: three nights of DJs and live acts that bring

huge crowds of EDM (electronic dance music) fans to party from dusk till dawn at the Las Vegas Motor Speedway.

Tie the knot at the Graceland Wedding Chapel with The King himself / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Strolling down the Strip through the animated crowds in the summer evening heat, wandering from Venice (the Venetian Hotel) to Polynesia (the Mirage Hotel, complete with on-site erupting volcano) to Paris (the Paris-Las Vegas Hotel) to New York (New York-New York) to Egypt (the Luxor Hotel) in the space of half an hour, constantly being amazed at what an insane place Las Vegas is. STRENGTHS • 24-hour gambling and drinking • Huge choice of hotels, all with their own ridiculous theme • Delicious food and extraordinarily attentive service • No need to worry about being rained out WEAKNESSES • The occasional need for some normality and a little less neon • The need to take a taxi almost everywhere • The heat makes staying in an expensive, air-conditioned casino such an attractive idea • There’s nothing to make you feel you should be having anything but fun…

’Moulin Rouge’ sign at the Neon Museum / COURTESY OF THE THE NEON MUSEUM, LAS VEGAS

GOLD STAR For its raison d’être – it’s the undisputed gambling capital of the world, with more choice and more casinos than anywhere else on earth. STARRING ROLE IN… • Viva Las Vegas (1964) • Rain Man (1988) • Leaving Las Vegas (1995) • Casino (1995) • Ocean’s Eleven (1960 and 2001) • The Hangover (2009) • The Hangover Part III (2013) IMPORT • Gamblers from all over the world • Nicholas Cage (he’s made more films here than anywhere else)

• Water • Divas on their last legs (Céline, J Lo, Britney Spears) EXPORT • Andre Agassi • Broke gamblers • Newlyweds SEE the incredible dancing fountains outside the Bellagio Hotel. EAT in vast hotel buffets – the only way Vegas can realistically feed its teeming thousands of hungry gamblers. DRINK for free as you play – just grab a cocktail waitress and don’t forget to tip. DO get married to someone you barely know at short notice in one of the hilarious chapels on the Strip. WATCH the neon-clad city from the sky by ascending the tower of the Stratosphere casino at night. BUY more chips, regularly…and remember, the house always wins. AFTER DARK bring your sunglasses out with you to deal with all the fabulous neon.

URBAN TALE It’s actually a myth that you can stroll up to any chapel in Las Vegas and get married there and then. You need to go first to the Clark County Court House and obtain a marriage licence. The courthouse is open daily, but only until midnight, so it’s not always plain sailing and you can’t just drunkenly arrive at the chapel and demand an instant union.

The X-Scream ride on top of the Stratosphere Tower / KRIS DAVIDSON | LONELY PLANET

Leipzig // Germany Leipzig has transformed itself since the fall of the Berlin wall from grey-faced socialist has-been to an up-and-coming creative boomtown.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Leipzig NICKNAME: Heldenstadt (City of Heroes), Hypezig DATE OF BIRTH: 1015; first documentation of the existing market town ADDRESS: Germany (map 4, N8) HEIGHT: 110m SIZE: 297 sq km POPULATION: 567,846 ANATOMY Leipzig’s kernel is its old town – or what survives of it – which boasts rich architectural and cultural landmarks including the Thomaskirche, the Nikolaikirche and the city’s best museums. Despite the palpable history here, arguably the beating heart of the city lies in the charming streets of Plagwitz and the Südvorstadt where the creative cool of the city’s social fabric shines through. The Weiße-Eister River bisects the city, and large sections of its embankments are green public spaces that are gorgeous to wander in. Leipzig has an excellent network of trams, buses and trains, but it’s also easy to bike around.

Michaeliskirche amid the red roofs of Leipzig / DANITA DELIMONT | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Saxony has an unenviable reputation for backwardness among the rest of the German population, but for the most part Leipzigers are a vivid counterpoint to that stereotype. Leipzig is the largest city in the state, with a young population that is bolstered by the net arrival of some 20,000 people a year, and Leipzigers tend to be better educated and better off than their country cousins. The city is not particularly multicultural, though: of just over half a million inhabitants, only 46,000 people are foreign born, with approximately half that number again being the offspring of immigrants. BEST TIME The northern hemisphere summer in Leipzig is pleasantly warm and the daylight hours long, while winters can be quite cold. The popular Street Music Festival takes place in summer, usually June, but there are off-season music events as well, such as Leipziger Jazz Days in October. A PERFECT DAY

Starting the day with a relaxed brunch on the KarLi, before wandering through the Südvorstadt and stopping at the Galerie für Zeitgenössische Kunst for an injection of contemporary art. Continuing on foot through Clara Zetkin Park and on over the river into Plagwitz where there’s plenty of browsing to be done in various shops. Dinner at Stadtpfeiffer is always a treat, best followed by drinks at Moritzbastei. STRENGTHS • Germany’s fastest-growing city • Numerous green spaces • Excellent public transport network • Large lakes perfect for swimming in the south of the city • Low cost of living • Lively nightlife • World-class museums • Easy to explore on foot • Bike friendly WEAKNESSES • Can sometimes feel like a backwater • Low standard of living compared with the rest of Germany • Cold and wet in winter GOLD STAR For its musical heritage – for many the city is synonymous with Johann Sebastian Bach, Richard Wagner and Felix Mendelssohn. It’s also a fantastic place to enjoy classical music in concert. STARRING ROLE IN… • As We Were Dreaming (2015) IMPORT • Coffee – Leipzig has Germany’s oldest coffee house • Plattenbau architecture • Music fans on the trail of Bach • Goethe, who came here to study and set part of Faust here

• Goths, who arrive on Whitsuntide for the world’s largest such meeting EXPORT • Bach • Wagner • BMWs • Porsches • Blüthner pianos SEE the excellent Stasi Museum, which reveals a very different side of Leipzig: one of the surveillance-obsessed GDR and the locals’ actions to defeat it. EAT a Leipziger Lerche, a famous local short-crust pastry filled with marzipan, which is available at Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum. DRINK a Gose beer, the highly unusual sour wheat beer local to Leipzig. It can be difficult to find these days; search out Gosenschänken (Gose taverns) that sell the rare brew. DO make the effort to get out of the city centre and see the extraordinary Völkerschlachtdenkmal, an insanely proportioned war memorial to some half a million soldiers who lost their lives fighting Napoleon. WATCH a concert at Leipzig’s world-famous Gewandhaus, which has been at the forefront of classical music since the mid-18th century. BUY gorgeous little things inside the old town’s Mädler Passage, an early20th-century glass-roofed shopping arcade. AFTER DARK experience Leipzig’s famously debauched nightlife at Distillery, its longest-running techno club.

URBAN TALE Leipzig’s name comes from the Slavic word Lipsk, which means place of

the lime trees. Despite being a German city nowadays, like much of Eastern Germany Leipzig was Slavic in origin, and there are still pockets of Sorbs, who speak a Slavic language known as Sorbian, in Saxony to this day.

In front of St Thomas’s Church is a statue of Johann Sebastian Bach, one of the city’s most famous residents / PHOTOLIKE | SHUTTERSTOCK

Lhasa // Tibet The resilient heart of a nation and a city of unique Himalayan heritage, Lhasa sits literally on the top of the world, seen by many as the homeland and jewel in the crown of Tibetan Buddhism.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Lhasa NICKNAME: Holy City; Roof of the World DATE OF BIRTH: 7th century AD; when local ruler Songsten Gampo made Lhasa his capital ADDRESS: Tibet (map 6, H4) HEIGHT: 3595m SIZE: 60 sq km POPULATION: 500,000 ANATOMY Perched atop the Tibetan plateau at almost 4km above sea level, Lhasa is one of the highest cities in the world. The city divides clearly into a sprawling western (Chinese) section and a much smaller eastern (Tibetan) section. The Tibetan eastern end of town is by far the most colourful and this is where you’ll find the Tibetan-run boutique accommodation most popular with foreign travellers. Focus your time on the winding, whitewashed lanes, hidden backstreet temples and traditional architecture of the old town, which spreads east of the Jokhang Temple and is encircled on three sides by Lingkhor pilgrim circuit.

Dawn breaks over the Potala Palace / ALEX DIBROVA | 500PX

PEOPLE The official figures for Lhasa’s population are 87% Tibetan and just under 12% Han Chinese, though these are generally discounted by all except the Chinese government, which released them. More realistic estimates put the percentage closer to 50/50, with the Han population rising rapidly, especially since the arrival in 2006 of the Qinghai-Tibet railway line connecting Lhasa with the rest of China. The population of the city before the Chinese takeover in 1949 was less than 30,000. There is also a 2000-strong Islamic community, based mostly in the Muslim Quarter. The majority of Tibetans are devout Buddhists and you’ll see pilgrims prostrating themselves or walking clockwise around the city’s many shines, temples and pilgrim paths. BEST TIME Most travellers visit during the summer months of May to September, when temperatures are comfortably warm even at this high altitude. This is also high season, so demand for hotel rooms and transport can be high. Winter is a great time to visit if you wrap up warm; tourists are noticeably absent and

crowds of colourful Tibetan pilgrims visit the town for the Losar (New Year) festival in February. Avoid the Chinese national holiday weeks starting 1 May and 1 October.

Downtown Lhasa and the Lhasa Valley from the roof of Drepung Monastery / JOHN HENSHALL | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Following the clockwise flow of pilgrims around the Barkhor circuit, then joining them for a yak-butter tea at a traditional teahouse. STRENGTHS • Flickering butter lamps at the Jokhang Temple, the spiritual heart of Lhasa • Resurgent old town handicraft shops • The monastery complexes of Drepung and Sera • Backstreet temples packed full of demons and deities • Tibetan teahouses and Nepali restaurants WEAKNESSES • Ever-sprawling Chinese new town • Lack of oxygen and the chance of altitude sickness • Tight political and travel restrictions • Lack of architectural protection in the old town • Lots of group tourists in high season • The requirement of a tour guide when visiting most sights GOLD STAR For holding tight to its Tibetan cultural, linguistic and religious heritage despite half a century of heavy, restrictive rule from Beijing. STARRING ROLE IN… • Windhorse (1998) IMPORT • Buddhism • Immigrants from neighbouring Sichuan and Gansu provinces • Pilgrims EXPORT • Buddhist teachers and reincarnated lamas • Yak hair, leather and jerky

• Thangkas (religious paintings) and carpets SEE the towering golden funeral stupas of the Dalai Lamas at the Potala Palace. EAT like the locals, sampling momos (dumplings), thugpa (noodle soup) and shemdre (potatoes and yak meat) at the Pentoc Tibetan Restaurant. DRINK cha ngamo (sweet milky tea). DO follow Tibetan pilgrims on a clockwise circuit of one of the city’s many kora (pilgrim paths). WATCH prayer flags fluttering in a cobalt Himalayan sky. BUY a prayer wheel or protective amulet from one of the stalls lining the Barkhor circuit. AFTER DARK head to the rooftop of the Green Cat Restaurant for floodlit views of the Potala.

URBAN TALE It was Princess Wencheng, the Chinese wife of King Songtsen Gampo, who divined the presence of a vast, supine demoness whose body straddled the high Tibetan plateau. Through Chinese geomantic calculations she established that the heart of the demoness lay beneath a lake in the centre of Lhasa, while her torso and limbs lay far away in the outer dominions of the Himalaya. It was decided that the demoness would have to be pinned down. The first task was to drain the lake in Lhasa of its water (read lifeblood of the demoness) and build a central temple that would replace her heart with a Buddhist heart. The temple built there was the Jokhang.

A Buddhist monk lights insense at Jokhang Temple / BUENA VISTA IMAGES | GETTY IMAGES

Lima // Peru When the fog shrouds its colonial facades and high-rises, Lima’s delights may come across as subtle – but this sophisticated capital is quickened by millennia-old civilisations, culinary genius, a vibrant arts culture and just a touch of grit.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Lima DATE OF BIRTH: 1535; founded by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro with the name Ciudad de los Reyes (City of the Kings) ADDRESS: Peru (map 1, M18) HEIGHT: 156m SIZE: 825 sq km (city), 2672 (metro area) POPULATION: 8.9 million (city), 9.8 million (metro) ANATOMY Lima is a sprawling, desert metropolis overlooking the crumbling cliffs of the Pacific coast. A grid of crowded streets and plazas, Lima Centro (Central Lima) is the city’s historic heart and home to most of its surviving colonial architecture. The well-to-do San Isidro district is the banking centre, bordering the seaside neighbourhood of Miraflores, the contemporary core bustling with commerce, restaurants and nightlife. Immediately to the south lies Barranco, a former resort community transformed into a hip bohemian centre with hopping bars and nice areas to stroll. The new trans-Lima electric express bus system, El Metropolitano, is the fastest and most efficient way to get into the city centre.

LarcoMar is an outdoor mall wedged into the cliff top beneath the Parque Salazar / JESS KRAFT | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Colonisation, immigration and indigenous influences have shaped the ethnic and cultural landscape of Lima and European, Andean, African and Asian heritage are reflected in the city’s diverse traditions, cuisine, and language. Limeño Spanish, influenced by Castilian Spanish, is characterised by its clarity and lack of strong intonation in comparison to other Latin American accents. BEST TIME A mild, dry climate makes for comfortable visits year round. Although if you visit Lima in winter (April to October) and you will likely find it steeped – day after day – in the fog known as garúa. Hotter weather and blue skies from December to March are ideal for surf and sun on the coast and colourful processions mark the festival of Santa Rosa de Lima, the country’s first saint, in March.

A street food chef prepares delicious plates for a food festival / CULTURA RM EXCLUSIVE/PHILIP LEE HARVEY | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Walking through the colonial heart of the city from Plaza San Martín and down the pedestrian street of Jirón de la Unión to the ornate canary-yellow buildings of Plaza de Armas, then stopping for a drink at Museo del Pisco before checking out the Monasterio de San Francisco’s catacombs, full of skulls and bones laid out in geometric designs. Finally heading to El Barrio Chino (Chinatown) for tea or and a well-earned feed at a Cantonese eatery. STRENGTHS • Museo Larco • The cats of Kennedy Park • Ornate colonial architecture • Surfing • Catacombs • MATE museum • Picarones (a kind of donut) • Fresh seafood WEAKNESSES • Garúa (the fog)

A statue of former mayor Ramon Castilla gazes upon Iglesia de La Merced / ROMAN TIRASPOLSKY | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For its fusion (criollo) cuisine, a singular blend of Spanish, Andean, Chinese and African influences. STARRING ROLE IN… • La Teta Asustada (2009) IMPORT • Chinese food (locally known as chifa) EXPORT • Ceviche • Mario Testino • Isabelle Allende • Teófilo Cubillas

SEE pre-Columbian masterpieces, from sublime tapestries to intricate goldwork at Museo Larco. EAT anticuchos, (tender beef-heart skewers) from a street cart DRINK potent pisco cocktails at the vintage bars and chic lounges of Barranco. DO explore sandy ruins with several civilisations’ worth of temples at Pachacamac. WATCH paragliders hovering in the sky from Malecón, the scenic cliff-top walkway that meanders along the coast. BUY pre-Columbian-style clay pottery or an alpaca rug at Mercado Indio. AFTER DARK check out nightclubs that pump everything from disco to cumbia in Miraflores.

URBAN TALE Garúa (the fog) is relentless, a mist that turns the sky an alabaster white and leaves the city draped in a melancholy pall. Interestingly, this otherworldly microclimate has been the source of much literary inspiration. The most famous citation is in none other than Moby Dick by Herman Melville, who visited Lima in the 1800s. It is ‘the strangest saddest city thou can’st see’, he wrote. ‘For Lima has taken the white veil; and there is a higher horror in this whiteness of her woe’. So why would the Spanish build the capital of their Andean empire at the one point on the coast regularly blanketed by this ghostly fog? Well, they likely wouldn’t have known. Francisco Pizarro established the city on 18 January – right in the middle of summer – when the skies are blue every day.

The archaeological complex of Pachacamac is a short distance from Lima / MATTHEW W BARRETT | GETTY IMAGES

Lisbon // Portugal Lisbon is as romantic as Paris, as fun as Madrid, as laid-back as Rome, but small enough to fit into their handbags.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Lisbon DATE OF BIRTH: 1000 BC; when the Phoenicians first settled here ADDRESS: Portugal (map 4, B17) HEIGHT: 77m SIZE: 87 sq km POPULATION: 545,245 ANATOMY Lisbon sits atop seven hills on the northern side of the wide mouth of the Rio Tejo (Tagus River). On each hill is a castle, church or stunning miradouro (viewpoint). Many of the medieval buildings were destroyed in a huge earthquake in 1755 and the city was rebuilt in a baroque style along a formal grid. To the east, the ancient, maze-like Alfama district, relatively unscathed, still exists, and uphill to the west are the narrow cobbled streets of swanky shopping and dining district Chiado and the fin-de-siècle decadence of the Bairro Alto. Trams, both old and new, and funiculars exist alongside an extensive metro system.

Lisbon’s pretty coastal buildings / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Greater Lisbon’s citizens represent one-third of the country’s population. Portugal’s population breakdown has seen dramatic changes over the course of several decades and through the economic downturn of the late 2010s. The country’s emigration rate has long been among Europe’s highest, but its immigration rate shot up during the mid-1970s when around one million African retornados (refugees) immigrated from former Portuguese colonies. They have especially big communities in Lisbon. Another influx resulting from Portugal’s empire building is of Brazilians; and there are palpable communities of Ukrainians, Romanians and Chinese as well. BEST TIME

The peak summer season (June to August) serves up hot weather and is the best time for open-air festivals, beach days and al fresco dining. However, the perfect season for exploring may be spring (March to May) – it has milder but often sunny days, accommodation is still reasonably priced and there’s a whole lot less people shuffling over Lisbon’s cobbled sidewalks.

Tram 28 climbs the cobbled hills / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY

Wandering the maze-like Alfama district, following the waft of grilled sardines and the melancholy notes of fado, Lisbon’s entrenched nostalgic soundtrack, before taking Tram 28 to Belém for a custard tart, then whiling away a few hours with art and antiquities at the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian and choosing from an eclectic range of restaurants in Bairro Alto or Chiado. STRENGTHS • Gloriously fine wine at even finer prices • 17km Ponte de Vasco da Gama • Azulejos – the decorative glazed tiles found everywhere • Mammoth baroque Palacio Nacional de Mafra • Foodies’ Mercado da Ribeira • African jazz scene • Laid-back clubs and late dining • Quaint, rickety trams WEAKNESSES • The numerous public transport companies, while thorough, can be confusing to navigate • Bacalhau (salt cod) – there is such a thing as too much • Tuk-tuk overload – what are these expensive three-wheeled auto-rickshaws doing here, anyway? • Not the greenest city in Europe

A fadista performs at A Baîuca, a popular fado restaurant / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For being in thrall to its past. Lisbon has baroque cafés, 1960s diners, velvetlined bars and Art Deco bakeries. This city has not been renovated into oblivion, and a post-recession construction boom is revitalising formerly dilapidated buildings with a keen eye on historical detail. STARRING ROLE IN… • Lisbon Story (1994) • The Last Kabbalist of Lisbon (2000) • Caitaes de Abril (April Captains, 2000) • Blood of My Blood (2012) • Night Train to Lisbon (2013) • The Book of Disquiet by Fernando Pessoa • A Small Death in Lisbon by Robert Wilson

• Requiem by Antonio Tabucchi IMPORT • Citizens of its former colonies • Investment from John Malkovich • Chillies • Gold from South America • Bacalhau EXPORT • Prince Henry the Navigator • Vasco da Gama • Catherine of Bragança • Tea to the rest of Europe • Five million people to Brazil from 1884 to 1963 • Billions of natural cork bottle-stoppers each year • Painter Paula Rego • Nobel prize–winning Author José Saramago • The films of Manoel de Oliveira SEE the city of seven hills from its highest vantage point – the postcardperfect Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte in Graça. EAT custard tarts that taste as though made by angels – at Pasteis de Belém. DRINK vinho verde (green wine) – light, crisp and dry, it’s Portugal’s signature wine. DO embrace Lisbon’s cinematic food and drink kiosks, which offer atmospheric sustenance in gorgeous plazas around town. WATCH the city wake up with the andorinhas (swallows) in autumn from the ambling Tram 28. BUY azulejos and ceramics, sold all over, but check out styles first at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo.

AFTER DARK seek out the fado (Portuguese blues) experience in Bairro Alto or Alfama.

URBAN TALE The recipe for the famous pastéis de nata (custard tarts) made at Belém has been a closely guarded secret since its creation over a century ago in the Jerónimos monastery where, it is said, the monks used egg whites to starch their habits and needed a use for all the left-over yolks. Only three chefs know the recipe at any one time: they work behind a metal door marked ‘secret’ and never travel together.

Those irresistable pastéis de nata (custard tarts) / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Livingstone // Zambia Zambia’s adventure and tourist capital, the humble, dusty city of Livingstone is only a stone’s throw from the magnificent Victoria Falls.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Livingstone NICKNAME: Maramba DATE OF BIRTH: AD 1905; following the completion of the railway bridge across the Zambezi River ADDRESS: Zambia (map 1, Z19) HEIGHT: 985m SIZE: 695 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 137,000 ANATOMY Livingstone lies only 11km north of one of the world’s greatest natural wonders: the Victoria Falls. Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd is the town’s main strip, with restaurants, backpackers, supermarkets, ATMs and post office. Past the train station the tarmac road bisects Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park leading towards the Zambezi River, Victoria Falls and the Zambia–Zimbabwe border.

Livingstone’s star attraction: Victoria Falls / WOLFGANG_STEINER | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE More than 50% of Zambia’s population lives in urban areas such as Livingstone, which lies on the border of the traditional territories of the Lozi, Tonga and Leya peoples. Although the main language group and people are Lozi, English is the official language and widely spoken due to Livingstone having become a major hub for travellers in southern Africa. The dominant religion is Christianity, though the majority also adhere to the traditional Zambian beliefs. BEST TIME If you’re here for white-water rafting the peak months are August to late October. This is also the time to visit Devils Pool, though it comes as a tradeoff for fairly low water flow from Victoria Falls. If you want to see the falls at full flight come around April to May, when you’ll see the full curtain of water at its most majestic. If you’re here during the drier months you can always skip across to the Zimbabwean side of the falls where there’s always a decent flow of water.

Primary school children at work / NICOLAMARGARET | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Waking up with a strong Zambian filter coffee before being zipped off by speedboat to Livingstone Island and swimming out to Devil’s Pool, the world’s most extreme infinity pool, precariously placed at the edge of Victoria Falls. Following this up with a half day’s white-water rafting along the Zambezi, taming Grade 5 rapids. Finishing with an afternoon ‘Flight of the Angels’ scenic helicopter ride over Victoria Falls and finally a G&T sundowner at one of the waterfront lodges. STRENGTHS • Victoria Falls • Tracking white rhino on foot in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park • White-water rafting along Grade 5 rapids • Laid-back atmosphere • Tourist friendly • Sundowners overlooking the Zambezi • Bungee jumping off Victoria Falls Bridge

• Livingstone Museum • Souvenirs from Mukuni Village • Delicious African food • Great backpacker accommodation WEAKNESSES • Inconvenience of having to get a taxi from town to the falls (muggings occur along this stretch so avoid walking); you’ll also need to take taxis in town after dark • Prime falls viewing and white-white rafting seasons not aligning • Having to fork out for visas to get back and forth from Zimbabwe GOLD STAR For Victoria Falls, obviously – the mesmerising waterfall spans nearly 2km, drops a dramatic 100m over a cliff and accommodates an amazing range of activities, from the tranquil to the terrifying. STARRING ROLE IN… • Stanley and Livingstone (1939) IMPORT • Adventure seekers • Bungee jumping • Rafting guides • David Livingstone • Christianity and Judaism • Tourism • English • Pizza EXPORT • Wooden sculptures • Mosi Beer SEE the natural wonders of Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.

EAT delicious braai (barbecued) crocodile tail at Café Zambezi. DRINK as much as you can handle on a sunset booze cruise on the Zambezi. DO a heart-stopping gorge swing over Batoka Gorge, or take the plunge on a bungee jump from Victoria Falls Bridge. WATCH the sunset melt into the horizon from a riverside deck with cold drink in hand. BUY some hand-carved wood pieces at Mukuni Village craft market. AFTER DARK compare stories with fellow travellers at the Waterfront bar on the Zambezi.

URBAN TALE Before being asked that famous question (‘Dr Livingstone, I presume?’), British explorer David Livingstone travelled up the Zambezi River. It was the 1850s and Livingstone hoped to introduce Christianity and commerce to combat the horrors of the slave trade. In 1855 local people showed him a magnificent waterfall thundering into the Zambezi, which Livingstone later described as ‘the ceaseless roar of the cataract, with the perpetual flow, as if pouring forth from the hand of the Almighty’. It was called ‘Mosi-oa-Tunya’ (smoke that thunders); to Dr Livingstone, however, ‘Victoria Falls’ seemed a more appropriate name. On the Zambia side its official name these days is Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.

Highlights of the excellent Livingstone Museum include its collection of original David Livingstone memorabilia / ALISON THOMPSON | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Ljubljana // Slovenia Pint-sized, picture-perfect Ljubljana punches above its weight with a thriving cultural scene, buzzing riverside bars and cafes, and a photogenic Old Town.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Ljubljana Nickname: White Ljubljana DATE OF BIRTH: 1144, first documented; but the area had been inhabited for at least three millennia ADDRESS: Slovenia (map 4, O12) HEIGHT: 298m SIZE: 164 sq km POPULATION: 280,000 ANATOMY Ljubljana is right at the centre of Slovenia. The city crouches within the Ljubljana Basin, guarded by the Polhov Gradec Hills to its west and Golovec Hill to its east, a sheltered location blamed for the city’s lingering morning cloud. The Ljubljanica River flows through the city, beneath scenic spans like columned Cobbler Bridge; Dragon Bridge, crowned with four fearsome dragons (emblems of the city); and Triple Bridge. Together with the rosepink Franciscan Church, the latter is one of Ljubljana’s most photographed views. The Old Town spreads along the eastern bank of the river, with Ljubljana Castle watching from above; extending from the western bank is Center, the commercial area. Walking and cycling are the best ways to get around the pedestrianised centre, and there are public buses around town.

Ljubljana Castle looks down on the town / KASTO80 | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Ljubljana’s lively, outdoorsy population is mostly made up of Slovenes (around 84%), with sizeable population of Croatians popping across the border. The university feeds Ljubljana’s youthful population, which tends towards an active, health-conscious and non-smoking crowd. Various religions muddle along happily in Ljubljana: more than one-third are Catholic, some 30% have no religion, and there is 5% each of Orthodox Christian and Muslim worshippers. BEST TIME Summer (June to August) fills riverside cafes and Old Town bars with life, and theatre and jazz festivals light up the city. But Ljubljana is even more magical in spring (April and May) and early autumn (September): the sun

lingers late, there are fewer tourists, and a quirky array of festivals unfolds (time your visit for March’s Welcoming of Spring). A PERFECT DAY Buying an ice cream near Prešernov trg, licking it across the Triple Bridge and pottering around the Old Town between burek (small stuffed pastry) stands and umbrella-shaded outdoor cafes before heading up to Ljubljana Castle for a spot of lunch outside Bar Ljubljanski Grad; then gazing out at views over the town’s burnt sienna rooftops that spread towards the dreamy hills beyond. STRENGTHS • Triple Bridge • Riverside cafes • Kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding on the Ljubljanica • Art Nouveau buildings • Creative, street-art-covered Metelkova district • Bike rental and cycling tours • Cviček, a sharp-tasting local wine • Varied and delicious cuisine • Eco-consciousness • Union beer • Pretty Old Town • The multicoloured facade of the Cooperative Bank • Ljubljana Castle • National Gallery • Slovenian National Opera and Ballet Companies • Union Olimpija basketball team • The Ana Desetnica International Festival of Street Theatre • Bakeries WEAKNESSES • Foggy mornings • Increasing prices • Confusing queuing system outside restaurants

GOLD STAR For compact charm – simply wandering around the streets seems to be one of the local inhabitants’ favourite pastimes, probably because the city still retains its human scale. STARRING ROLE IN… • Outsider (1997) • Veronika Decides to Die by Paulo Coelho • Forbidden Bread by Erica Johnson Debeljak IMPORT • British tourists on budget flights • James Joyce and Nora Barnacle (for one night, by mistake) • French writer of Gothic tales Charles Nodier • Ancient Greek mythological hero Jason, said to have stopped here with the Golden Fleece EXPORT • Rock band Siddharta • Poet Barbara Korun • Painter Matija Jama • Influential architect Jože Plečnik • Ski-jumper Primož Peterka • Wine • Realist painter Ivana Kobilca • Industrial-techno group Laibach SEE the city’s biggest attraction, Ljubljana Castle, and peer over the Old Town from the ramparts. EAT tasty seafood or foal fillet at atmospheric Taverna Tatjana. DRINK award-winning Slovenian wines at Movia Vinoteka wine bar. DO hire a bicycle from more than 30 rental points around town, and pedal along the river.

WATCH open-air theatre, opera and ballet at the annual summer Ljubljana Festival. BUY Adriatic bath salts, handmade souvenirs, and intricate lace from Idrija along Mestni trg. AFTER DARK smoulder to a soundtrack of live blues and jazz at Sax Pub.

URBAN TALE The Dragon Bridge was funded by Vienna after a cunning mayor in the early 20th century persuaded his neighbour that the river required an additional crossing. The bridge is embellished with bronze dragons, and locals joke that their tails wag when a virgin crosses.

Triple Bridge and the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation reflected in Ljubljanica River / ROBERTHARDING | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

London // England London is Britain’s economic motor and one of the world’s great cities, where you can listen to any style of music, view any kind of art and sample food from anywhere under the sun.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: London NICKNAME: The Big Smoke DATE OF BIRTH: AD 43; Roman Emperor Claudius led an army to establish a port called Londinium ADDRESS: England (map 4, G8) HEIGHT: 309.6m SIZE: 1572 sq km (city), 8382 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 8.6 million (city), 13.9 million (metro) ANATOMY Above ground the Thames meanders through the capital, while underground is a warren of tube lines. Within the yellow one (Circle Line) you’ll find most of the central tourist sights, nightlife and shops. Thirty percent of London is parkland, making it the greenest city of its size in the world. In recent years, London’s historic architecture has been joined by a growing number of statement skyscrapers, which fuse money, ambition and silly names: the Shard, the Cheesegrater and the Walkie Talkie are among the most prominent.

The metropolis lit up at night / JULIAN LOVE | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE With an estimated 33 ethnic communities and 300 languages spoken, Londoners are an enormously varied bunch. That doesn’t mean you can’t make some generalisations. They work hard to afford Europe’s most expensive city. They are polite (yes, they queue). They are tolerant and unfazed by outrageous dress or behaviour. They are always in a rush but won’t refuse a request for help. They go to the pub after work for rounds of drinks. They complain about London a lot but wouldn’t live anywhere else. BEST TIME June to August is the best bet for sunshine; any other time for shorter queues. Most attractions are indoors.

Supplies for a full English breakfast at Borough Market / MYLES NEW | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Exploring magnificent St Paul’s Cathedral before heading across the Millennium Bridge to an exhibition at Tate Modern, London’s most highprofile exhibition space. Soaking in the atmosphere on a stroll along the South Bank, before dipping your toe in the city’s foodie renaissance at the one of the places it began – the restaurants and stalls of Borough Market. Then it’s pub time – staying local and grabbing a pint at the Rake or the Market Porter, or getting a bus north for drinks in Shoreditch. STRENGTHS • History around every corner • The Royal Parks eg Regent’s Park, Hyde Park • Pubs and pints • London Fashion Week • Live bands and clubs – everyone plays here • Cheap flights to Europe • West End theatre • Sports events – from Wimbledon tennis to Arsenal and Chelsea to the NFL • Free museums and galleries • Notting Hill Carnival (second largest in the world after Rio) • Ethnic and designer cuisine • Royal Palaces eg Buckingham Palace, Kensington Palace • Great local neighbourhoods like Brixton, Bethnal Green and Hampstead WEAKNESSES • Vertiginous house prices • High cost of living • Armpit ambience on crowded rush-hour tubes • Friday night traffic leaving London • ‘Floating statue’ performers dressed as Yoda • Recent nightclub closures • Its size – it can take an age to get across town • Chain shops and restaurants dominate many streets

Locals make the most of a sunny day in Hyde Park / THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING MY WORK | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For theatre – London is still the world leader, with Hollywood stars seeking credibility by treading West End boards. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Lavender Hill Mob (1951) • A Hard Day’s Night (1964) • Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels (1998) • Bridget Jones’s Diary (2001) • Closer (2004) • V for Vendetta (2006) • Skyfall (2012) IMPORT • Indian/Bangladeshi food • The global elite

• American burgers, ribs and mac ’n’ cheese • The Royal Family (the Windsors came from Germany) • European hipsters • Minicab and Uber drivers from across the world EXPORT • Queen Elizabeth II and the Royal Family • Twinings Tea • Punk, drum and bass and grime • Zebra crossings • Fuel-cell technology • Adele • Cockney rhyming slang • Beefeater Gin • James Bond • Charlie Chaplin • David Beckham • Alfred Hitchcock SEE the 40km view from the London Eye observation wheel. EAT everything you can get your hands on at Borough and Broadway markets. DRINK organic bitter at the 18th-century Jerusalem Tavern. DO a night-time ghost-tour walk and discover the haunted corners of the city. WATCH Shakespeare performed as it was meant to be at the Globe Theatre. BUY old-fashioned groceries at Fortnum & Mason. AFTER DARK hit the clubs and bars of Shoreditch and Dalston.

URBAN TALE

‘Jack the Ripper’ caused a media frenzy in the 1880s and still attracts conspiracy theories. Five brutal murders are firmly linked to his name, although some claim he was responsible for up to eleven deaths. Letters, apparently from the killer himself, appeared in print. He became a legend, with rumours rampant about his identity and the extent of his depravity. But the murderer evaded the police and who he was remains a mystery.

Columbia Road Flower Market is an explosion of colour and life / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Los Angeles // USA Los Angeles may be the world capital of myth-making but it thrives beyond its own highly constructed clichés with a mosaic of cultures and a beautiful setting between desert and sea.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Los Angeles NICKNAME: LA; City of Angels; Tinseltown, La-la land DATE OF BIRTH: 1781; Spanish missionaries founded the settlement ADDRESS: USA (map 2, C9) HEIGHT: 95m SIZE: 1215 sq km (city), 12,562 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 3.9 million (city), 12.8 million (metro area) ANATOMY The City of Los Angeles is the county seat of an enormous concatenation of 88 independent cities, stretching down the Pacific coast and sandwiched by the Santa Monica and San Gabriel Mountains and Mojave Desert. Inland, the skyscrapers of Downtown are the only recognisable centre, surrounded by Latino East LA, historically African-American South LA and Koreatown to the west. Westward are iconic Hollywood, West Hollywood, Bel Air and Beverly Hills, out to Santa Monica and Malibu by the ocean. The car is king, but there is a large bus and a growing light-rail network, now connecting Downtown and the Pacific.

LA skyline and Griffith Observatory / SEAN PAVONE | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE If the world thinks of Angelenos as narcissistic, vapid, flaky and superficial (holy 1970s stereotypes!), the Angelenos are too busy to give it much thought while working, working out, werk-ing or working the room. The county of LA is America’s largest and one of Earth’s most diverse places; people from some 180 countries make up a population bigger than 41 US states and more than half the world’s nations. Almost half the population is Hispanic, and there is a fast-growing Asian and Pacific Islander population. It makes Angelenos generally tolerant, open-minded and cosmopolitan. BEST TIME Most tourists visit April to September when the sun shines the brightest on LA’s golden sands. In February the red carpet is rolled out for the Academy Awards, making it prime time for celeb-spotting. The region has two distinct wet seasons in October to November and January to March.

A surfer strolls by Santa Monica pier / KRIS DAVIDSON | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Running along the beach, then touring a movie studio before tackling ramen, art galleries and J-pop in Little Tokyo and checking out the stunning contemporary art collection of the Broad. As the sun descends over the Hollywood Hills, heading to the majestic 17,500-seat natural amphitheatre Hollywood Bowl for a concert of any kind – with fireworks! STRENGTHS • 300-plus days of sunshine per year • Nuevo-Latino cuisine • Large, prominent LGBT scene • Downtown renewal • Encompassing ethnic neighbourhoods • Walt Disney Concert Hall • Griffith Park • Arts District • Farmers Markets • Mid-Century Modern design • Las Posadas, Day of the Dead and other Mexican festivals • Thriving alternative art scene • Jacarandas in bloom • Kilometres of beaches • Easy access to Disneyland WEAKNESSES • Stop-and-go freeways • Inadequate public transit • Traffic-related stress • Hot Santa Ana winds • Scary plastic surgery junkies • Sprawl • Cooler-than-thou bouncers and shop assistants • Persisting racial inequality • New York ‘transplants’ who do nothing but criticise

• San Andreas Fault

Iconic Hollywood Boulevard / VIEW APART | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For its built environment – for fans of Modernist architecture, LA is the most innovative and diverse city in the USA. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Big Sleep (1946) • Sunset Boulevard (1950) • Point Blank (1967) • Chinatown (1974) • La Bamba (1987) • Boyz n the Hood (1991) • LA Story (1991) • Pulp Fiction (1994) • LA Confidential (1997) • Mulholland Drive (2001)

• Crash (2004) • (500) Days of Summer (2009) • This is the End (2013) • Straight Outta Compton (2015) • La La Land (2016) IMPORT • Eucalypts • Actors and film industry workers • Charles and Ray Eames • Igor Stravinsky • Water • Mexican domestic labourers • William Faulkner • F Scott Fitzgerald • Bertolt Brecht • Chet Baker EXPORT • Film, TV, Video games • Snapchat • Surf and skate culture • McDonald’s • The word ‘smog’ • Charles Bukowski • Bikram yoga teachers • Cobb salad • West Coast Rap • California rolls (kashu-maki) • The Beach Boys SEE mountain and sea views plus David Hockney’s Californian scenes at Richard Meier’s glorious Getty Center. EAT your way through the gourmet food stalls of the Grand Central Market.

DRINK an apple martini while holed up in a poolside pleasure pod on the rooftop at the Standard Downtown. DO hike with the hardbodies in Runyon Canyon Park. WATCH a Hollywood classic on the lawn with a picnic at Hollywood Forever Cemetery. BUY new and used books, vinyl and graphic novels amid fantastical book tunnels and art spaces at the Last Bookstore. AFTER DARK entertain or be entertained by Marty and Elayne at the Dresden Room in Los Feliz.

URBAN TALE Paul Beatty bagged both the Man Booker Prize and National Book Critics Circle Award for The Sellout, his 2015 satirical novel about a curmudgeon who tries to revive slavery and school segregation in a downtrodden LA suburb.

Busy Venice Beach boardwalk / LAYLAND MASUDA | GETTY IMAGES

Luang Prabang // Laos Luang Prabang is a stunning mix of gleaming temples, crumbling French colonial-era architecture, multiethnic inhabitants and delectable dining.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Luang Prabang DATE OF BIRTH: 1353; when the city-state of Muang Xieng Thong (City of Gold) became the capital of Lan Xang (Land of a Million Elephants) ADDRESS: Laos (map 6, J8) HEIGHT: 700m SIZE: 125 sq km POPULATION: 56,000 ANATOMY Luang Prabang is dominated by Phu Si, a large hill near the middle of the peninsula formed by the confluence of the two rivers. Most of the longer roadways through Luang Prabang parallel the river. Shorter roads – once mere footpaths – bisect the larger roads and lead to the riverbanks, serving as dividing lines between different villages. Most of the historic temples are located between Phu Si and the Mekong, while the trading district lies to the south of the hill. The airport and boat dock are northeast of the city. Most of the town is accessible on foot and you can explore by jumbo (motorised three-wheeled taxi).

Luang Prabang in the morning mist / THODSAPOL THONGDEEKHIEO | 500PX

PEOPLE Laid-back, slow paced, serene, unfussed and easy-going, Luang Prabang locals commonly express the notion that ‘too much work is bad for your brain’. Lao is the official language, but Lao dialects (closely related to Thai) are also spoken, as are French and English. Sixty percent of the population is Buddhist, with 40% made up of animist and spirit cults. BEST TIME Luang Prabang is best visited in the dry, cool season from November to February, although the nights get pretty fresh. Early December sees the Luang Prabang Film Festival with outdoor screenings all over the old town.

The ritual of tak bat, where devout Buddhists give alms to novice monks / QUINCY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Rising at dawn to see hundreds of monks walking the streets in search of alms, continuing to the Morning Market for a slice of local life and possible breakfast in a bowl, then exploring the alleys and back streets of the historic old town and finishing up at Wat Xieng Thong. After lunch, cruising through scenic villages on a motorcycle to the stunning Tat Kuang Si waterfalls for a cooling dip, then enjoying traditional Luang Prabang cuisine at the Tamarind Restaurant and a stylish nightcap at neighbouring Apsara. STRENGTHS • Gilded temple roofs • Night Market • French colonial architecture • Pak Ou caves • The many-tiered Tat Kuang Si waterfall • Peaceful Buddhist traditions • Low cost of living • Picturesque riverside setting • The quaint Royal Palace Museum • Trekking, rafting and cycling in the surrounding countryside • The tak bat or dawn call to alms • Designer Lao dining • Living Land Project • Pha Tad Ke Botanical Gardens WEAKNESSES • Smoke from slash-and-burn agriculture in the surrounding mountains in March • Crack-of-dawn roosters • Speedboat accidents, including fatalities, on the rivers • High boutique hotel prices GOLD STAR

For 32 wats – the historic and spirtual centre of life for local residents. Wat Xieng Thong is the oldest surviving temple in town and its swooping roof is a definitive symbol of the city. STARRING ROLE IN… • Sabaidee Luang Prabang (Good Morning, Luang Prabang, 2008) • Short story ‘The Boatman’s Gift’ by Pamela Michael IMPORT • Theravada Buddhism • French bread and pastries • UXO (unexploded ordnance), which litters northeastern Laos and injures or kills 50 people each year • Nâm pąa (sauce of fermented anchovies from Thailand) • Chinese and Vietnamese food EXPORT • Teak and other hardwoods • Silk • Coffee • Electricity • Gold SEE Pak Ou, the Buddha Caves on the banks of the Mekong, crammed with images of the Buddha in all styles and sizes. EAT phák nâm (a delicious watercress unique to Luang Prabang) and khào nǐaw (the ubiquitous sticky rice). DRINK lao lao – the local firewater made from sticky rice. DO a walking tour around Luang Prabang’s northeastern quarter to take in most of the historic attractions and sightseeing spots. WATCH the boat races during Bun Awk Phansa (the End of the Rains Retreat) in October.

BUY beautiful handmade sǎa (mulberry bark) paper, naturally dyed housewoven Lao silk and cotton, handcrafted silverware, silk-lined cushions and embroidered rice mats. AFTER DARK head to the Nam Khan riverside to the expansive (but not expensive) garden bar that is Utopia.

URBAN TALE In the Royal Palace Museum (Ho Kham), the Phabang Buddha is a statue cast of a gold, silver and bronze alloy that stands 83cm tall and weighs 53.4kg. It was cast around the 1st century AD in Sri Lanka and later presented to King Fa Ngum in 1359 as an affirmation of Lao sovereignty. The Siamese twice carried off the image to Thailand (in 1779 and 1827) but it was finally restored to Lao hands by King Mongkut in 1867. Persistent rumours claim that the image on display is a copy and that the original is stored in a vault in Vientiane. The ‘real’ one supposedly features a bit of gold leaf over the eyes and a hole drilled through one ankle.

Wat Ho Pha Bang and the stupa spire of the Royal Palace in the distance / SIMON IRWIN | LONELY PLANET

Luxembourg City // Luxembourg The entire ancient core of this 1000-year-old city has been preserved and provides spectacular vistas over lush parklands and atmospheric old quarters, spanned by a series of imposing bridges.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Luxembourg City DATE OF BIRTH: AD 963; when Count Sigefroid of Ardennes erected a castle here ADDRESS: Luxembourg (map 4, J10) HEIGHT: 330m SIZE: 51 sq km POPULATION: 115,000 ANATOMY The Alzette River passes through Luxembourg City and gives the capital its geographic charm. A medieval street plan mixes with 18th- and 19th-century buildings in the Old Town. The city’s central area is divided by deep gorges; the lower town is at the base of the Old Town’s Bock fortifications. Walking is the best way to get around.

The lower town beneath the fortifications and Neumunster Abbey / FRÉDÉRIC COLLIN | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Lëtzebuergesch, closely related to German, was proclaimed the national language in 1984. French and German are also official languages. The population is over 40% foreigners, predominantly from other European countries. Luxembourgers are likely to work in the new service-based economy, as the country has morphed from an industrial producer by wooing big spenders from abroad with favourable banking and taxation laws. They are a confident lot, with a motto: ‘Mir wëlle bleiwe wat mir sin’ (We want to remain what we are). BEST TIME The acclaimed Printemps Festival in March and April focuses on jazz and world music. Weather-wise, May to September is the best bet, though you may want to catch the traditional Christmas market which takes over the main square.

A PERFECT DAY Wandering the pedestrianised heart of the Old Town, investigating history and art in the Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art and Mudam, delving into the Bock Casemates rock fortification and taking the elevator carved into the rock at Plateau du St Esprit to fairytale Grund quarter for an aperitif, before returning to the Chemin de la Corniche and dining outside for a fabulous view. STRENGTHS • Place d’Armes • Musée National d’Histoire et d’Art • Chemin de la Corniche • Mudam international contemporary art gallery • La Cristallerie restaurant • The equality of three official languages: French, German and Lëtzebuergesch WEAKNESSES • Conservative attitudes • Extremely quiet on Sundays – try to score a visit to a local’s home • Eurocratic GOLD STAR For the Old Town: with its impressive state-of-the-art museums, its Moorish Palais Grand-Ducal, its cathedral and free elevator dug into the rock, the pedestrianised centre is a pleasant way to while away the time. Unesco obviously thought so when it added the fortifications and older quarters of the city to its list of World Heritage sites. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Moon of the Big Winds by Claudine Muno • Aleng by Cathy Clement IMPORT • Employees from neighbouring countries • The Commission of the European Community

• The Court of Justice of the European Communities • The General Secretariat of the European Parliament • The European Investment Bank • The Nuclear Safety Administration • 4000 investment funds • 144 banks EXPORT • Photographer Edward Steichen • Jean-Claude Juncker • Happy personal investors • Busy Eurocrats SEE the startling white building of the Musée d’Histoire et d’Art, and its collections of prehistoric relics as well as contemporary art. EAT the national dish, judd mat gaardebounen (slabs of smoked pork served in a thick, cream-based sauce with broad beans and huge chunks of potato). DRINK local specialist brews, Gamorinus, a blond beer, and Diekirche’s Grand Cru. DO promenade on the Chemin de la Corniche along the city ramparts. WATCH art lovers gather under I.M. Pei’s glass-topped Mudam gallery. BUY porcelain from the House of Villeroy & Boch, the world-famous manufacturer of china and crystal. AFTER DARK head to Grund for the city’s liveliest pubs and nightlife.

URBAN TALE Legend has it that when the founder of Luxembourg City, Count Sigefroid, married the beautiful Melusina, he was so smitten with his new bride that he agreed to her request to spend one night alone every month.

As the years went on, though, the Count’s curiosity grew. One day he could take it no more – he peeked into Melusina’s room. He saw his wife lying in the bath with a mermaid’s tail draped over the edge. She repaid the intrusion by leaping out of the window into the Alzette River. Occasional sightings of mysterious beautiful women with fish tails in the Alzette persist.

The modernist glass oval of the Philharmonie, which hosts jazz, classical and opera performances / TINA UND HORST HERZIG/LOOK-FOTO | GETTY IMAGES

Macau // China Macau fuses the Mediterranean and Asia with its Chinese temples, ancient stone fortresses, colonial villas and exotic street names etched on azulejos (Portuguese decorative glazed tiles).

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Macau DATE OF BIRTH: 1557, when it was officially founded as a colony of Portugal; it was reborn as the Special Administrative Region of Macau in 1999, though its recorded history goes back to the Qin dynasty (221–206 BC) ADDRESS: China (map 6, M7) HEIGHT: 59m SIZE: 30 sq km POPULATION: 566,375 ANATOMY Most of Macau’s attractions are clustered round the peninsula’s centre – it’s a hilly but rewarding walk from church to fort and back again. Two bridges link the peninsula to Taipa Island, and the Cotai Strip land reclamation now links the islands of Taipa and Coloane. Aside from walking, the best way to get around the Macau Peninsula is by air-conditioned bus or minibus, taking in Lisboa Hotel, Avenida Almeida Ribeiro, the Barrier Gate, the Floating Casino, the A-Ma and Kun Iam temples, and Taipa and Coloane villages.

Skyline with the golden lotus-shaped Grand Lisboa casino / DIDIER MARTI | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Macau has the world’s highest population density, with 20,497 people per square kilometre. The population is about 95% Han Chinese, with an estimated 47% being born in mainland China. Fewer than 2% of Macau residents are Portuguese and the rest are Macanese, with mixed Portuguese, Chinese, African and Filipino ancestry. Portuguese and Chinese (particularly Cantonese) are official languages of Macau. Taoism and Buddhism are the dominant religions, followed by Catholicism. BEST TIME Autumn and early winter, especially mid-October to December, are the best times to visit to avoid the high humidity of summer and the typhoons of July and August. Both the Macau Grand Prix and the Macau Food Festival are also held during this time.

Macau is liveliest after dark / ED NORTON | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Visiting the Monte Fort at the Macau Museum, followed by a leisurely stroll along Praia Grande. Paying homage at the ruins of St Paul’s, Macau’s most treasured icon and one of the greatest monuments to Christianity in Asia. Feasting on Portuguese or Macanese cuisine at Taipa Village, before braving a game of baccarat at one of the Cotai Strip’s flashy new casinos. STRENGTHS • Unique Portuguese-Sino culture • Portuguese and Macanese cuisine • Guia Fort • High-speed ferries to Hong Kong • Senado Sq • Kun Iam Temple • Pastéis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) • Ruins of the Church of St Paul • Macau Museum • Leal Senado • Monte Fort • 360-degree views from Macau Tower WEAKNESSES • Rampant gambling culture • Flashy consumerism • Triads

The ruins of the Jesuit Church of St Paul, once the greatest Christian church in Asia / TOM COCKREM | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For its extreme makeover – after years of playing dowdy second fiddle to Hong Kong, Macau is glammed up to the nines and wooing commerce and tourism like never before. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Corrupt Ones (1967) • Fist of Fury (1972) • Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (1984) IMPORT • Casino culture • Portuguese architecture and cuisine • Hong Kong entrepreneurialism • Western hotel chains • High rollers

EXPORT • Luxury watches • Jewellery • Clothing SEE into your future with one of the many fortune-tellers that throng the incense-infused Kun Iam Temple. EAT golden roast suckling pig and piles of codfish rice at Fernando’s at Coloane. DRINK a glass of vinho verde (a crisp ‘green’ wine from Portugal) at the Casablanca Café, an elegant watering-hole in the Vista Magnifica Court Building. DO walk to the top of Guia Fort, as there are few better places in Macau to get your bearings (alternatively, ride the teeny cable car). WATCH ‘The House of Dancing Water’, a breathtaking mix of stunts, acrobatics and theatre designed by the former director of Cirque du Soleil. BUY Chinese antiques – delicate vases, imperial embroidery, opium pipes, coins and stamps, tea and coffee boxes – be sure you know the difference between truly old and quality reproduction. AFTER DARK hit the pai kao (Chinese dominoes, similar to mah jong) tables at one of Macau’s many casinos.

URBAN TALE The name ‘Macau’ is derived from the name of the goddess A-Ma. According to legend, A-Ma was a poor girl looking for passage to Guangzhou. After she was turned away by wealthy junk owners, a fisherman took her on board his humble boat. Shortly afterwards, a storm wrecked all the junks but A-Ma’s fishing boat was left unscathed. When they returned to the harbour, A-Ma walked to the top of nearby Barra

Hill and, in a glowing aura of light, ascended to heaven. The fisherman built a temple on the spot where they had landed (the A-Ma Temple was on the water’s edge until land reclamation set it further inland).

Traditional Macanese almond cookies / HOLGER LEUE | GETTY IMAGES

Madang // Papua New Guinea Often dubbed the ‘Prettiest town in the Pacific’, Madang has a tropicalisland-resort feel coupled with excellent facilities, and provides easy access to nearby volcanoes, coral-fringed islands and legendary dive sites.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Madang DATE OF BIRTH: 1884; when the German New Guinea Company briefly established a base here before malaria drove them out ADDRESS: Papua New Guinea (map 1, NN17) HEIGHT: 4m SIZE: 21 sq km POPULATION: 36,000 ANATOMY Madang sits on a rocky peninsula jutting into the cobalt blue waters of Astrolabe Bay. This peninsula, and nearby Kranket Island, shelter the calm waters of Madang Harbour with its small fleet of pleasure craft and its swarms of banana boats – the daily commuter for island and coastal villagers. The commercial centre is at the end of the peninsula, where you’ll also find the landmark Madang Resort Hotel occupying prime position. Following Coastwatchers Rd around to the eastern shore you’ll likely feel the southeast trade wind whipping a choppy sea against the rocky shore.

Madang Resort Hotel is set on six hectares of beautiful tropical gardens / DOUGLAS PEEBLES PHOTOGRAPHY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE As capital of Madang province, the city attracts coastal people, islanders, highlanders, and river-dwellers in search of prosperity. More recently, Europeans and Chinese settlers have entered the mix. There are 30 main tribal languages spoken in Madang, but the official languages are English, Tok Pisin (the Pidgin language) and Motu, with Tok Pisin being the most widely used. Each of Madang’s 30-plus tribal groups has its own traditional ideas and practices, and belief in supernatural forces and ancestral spirits is strong despite two centuries of missionary activity in the region. BEST TIME The Dry season, roughly from June through to September, is the best time to enjoy the crystal-clear waters when diving. The Madang Festival is in June, and the Divine Word University Cultural Show is usually held in August, and both feature colourful tribal dances.

A friendly Madang local / PETER SOLNESS | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Starting with a breakfast of tropical fruit while the warm wind off the sea is still a gentle waft. Then getting out onto the water to experience world-class diving and snorkeling – the waters around Madang cater for all abilities. Diving deep for WWII wrecks, hovering over bottomless drop-offs, or simply snorkelling along a shallow fringing reef with myriad colourful fishy companions. After a couple of swims, having a round of sunset drinks as the city’s giant bats take flight from Madang’s towering casuarina trees. STRENGTHS • World-class snorkelling and diving • Volcanic scenery • Exquisite seafood • Smiles everywhere • Madang Festival • Giant butterflies • Giant fruit bats • Bamboo bands playing traditional music • Tribal art • Coastwatchers’ Memorial Beacon WEAKNESSES • Malaria • Betel nut • Sea urchins • Volcanic activity • Canned meat GOLD STAR For diving – excellent visibility, stunning tropical coral and fish life, plus numerous WWII wrecks make the diving and snorkelling around Madang world famous. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Robinson Crusoe (1997) • Bekim by Rosalie Ann Christensen IMPORT • Christianity • Western clothes • Outboard motors for banana boats • English • Anthropologists EXPORT • Copra • Cocoa • Canned tuna • Betel nut • Bamboo bands SEE the Madang Festival (held annually in June), which features singsing (performance/dance) groups from all over the province and other regions of the country. EAT fresh seafood daily at the water’s edge at Madang Lodge. DRINK a cocktail as you stroll around the Orchid Gardens at the Madang Resort Hotel. DO take a boat out to one of the island reefs to do some snorkelling over coral reefs or to dive down to WWII wrecks. WATCH the busy banana boats ferry locals to and from Krangket Island. BUY vibrant paintings and curious carvings from the makeshift market outside the entrance to the Madang Resort Hotel. AFTER DARK head out to a reef for an exhilarating night dive.

URBAN TALE Before white settlers arrived, some of the tribes in Madang province practised cannibalism. Successive waves of missionaries put an end to the practice but locals occasionally like to play up to their fearsome past. Micronesian celebrity chef Liva Kabok was clearly having a laugh when he wrote The Cannibal Cookbook: Low Cal Meals to Die for, which contains, among others, a recipe for Irish stew cooked with Irish missionaries. However, in 2012 the federal election was postponed when a bizarre cult sprang up near Madang whose members allegedly killed and ate seven witch-doctors accused of abusing the local community. The gang leaders were eventually arrested and the election was allowed to proceed.

Coastwatchers Memorial Lighthouse commemorates PNG’s assistance to the Allies in WWII / IMAGEBROKER | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Madrid // Spain Madrid’s city centre is the most vibrant, versatile and exciting in Europe. It’s a city that seems to have mastered the art of living the good life. But this is also the cultural capital of the Spanish-speaking world with first-rate art galleries, a brilliant culinary scene and one of Europe’s most underrated architectural offerings.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Madrid DATE OF BIRTH: 854 AD; when Mohammed I, emir of Córdoba, established a fortress here ADDRESS: Spain (map 4, E16) HEIGHT: 660m SIZE: 607 sq km POPULATION: 3.2 million ANATOMY Madrid is Europe’s highest capital. Most major sights are within walking distance of a very short metro ride. The historic centre features a mix of old and new low-rise buildings and hundreds of plazas, with skyscrapers predominantly in the northern part of the city. Madrid’s metro is the quickest and easiest way to get around the city, with cercanías (regional trains) and buses close runners-up.

The lavish Palacio Real (Royal Palace) / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Many locals aren’t originally from Madrid proper, but come from all over Spain. Some 600,000 foreign migrants also live in the Comunidad de Madrid (the region around Madrid) – more than two-thirds of them in the city. The biggest groups are Ecuadorians, Colombians and Moroccans. In the workingclass neighbourhoods of Lavapiés and around, you will encounter North Africans rubbing shoulders with Pakistanis, black Africans and Latin Americans. During the economic turmoil of ‘La Crisis’ in the years following 2008, many immigrants (and Spaniards) left, but the essential make-up of the city remains unchanged. BEST TIME The northern hemisphere spring and autumn are when you’ll see Madrid at its best. Madrid has extremely hot summers, which is one reason why locals evacuate the city in July and August – it’s nice and quiet, but otherwise not the most comfortable time to visit. Ditto for the winter months, when nighttime temperatures can drop below freezing; snow is rare, but cold, clear days

can be beautiful.

Tortilla Española forms a tempting tapa / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Waking up late, breakfasting on coffee and churros (doughnuts), then browsing for trash (maybe treasure) at El Rastro flea market, before enjoying a long lunch in a nearby restaurant, having a rest in the glorious gardens of El Retiro afterwards, and finally joining a happy crowd intent on dancing until dawn. STRENGTHS • Tolerance • Chatty locals with a love for outdoor living • Efficient public transport • Cheap taxis • Thousands of tapas bars • Regional Spanish and ethnic cuisine • Siesta • Nightlife • Major art museums • Colourful Los Austrias, La Latina and Lavapiés barrios (neighbourhoods) • Plazas brimming with friends and neighbours catching up • Parque del Buen Retiro, one of Europe’s loveliest parks • Real Madrid football team • Acoustics at Teatro Real WEAKNESSES • Endless roadworks • All-night noise making sleep difficult • Madrid’s traditional cooking (such as tripe…) • Freezing winters and hellish summers

The brilliant Museo del Prado art gallery / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For art – Madrid has three world-class art museums in the Museo del Prado, the Museo Thyssen Bornemisza and the Centro d’Arte Reina Sofía, and they’re all within walking distance of each other. STARRING ROLE IN… • Abre los Ojos (Open Your Eyes, 1997) • Amantes (The Lovers, 1991) • Live Flesh (1997) • Bad Education (2003) IMPORT • Expensive footballers • Flamenco • Picasso’s Guernica • Asturian cider • Galician octopus

• Basque pintxos (tapas) • La Rioja wine EXPORT • Gal lip balm • Colourful fans • Real Madrid strips • Lladró porcelain • Pedro Almodóvar • Capes • Tapas • Bullfighting posters • Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem SEE Picasso’s Guernica at the Centro d’Arte Reina Sofía and weep. EAT tapas every chance you get. DRINK eye-crossingly potent cocktails in any of the party barrios. DO as the locals do and take it easy for the siesta with a long lunch. WATCH a soul-stirring flamenco performance at a backstreet tablao (flamenco bar). BUY a beautiful embroidered and fringed silk mantón (shawl) from El Corte Ingles. AFTER DARK try staying awake for as long as the madrileños (Madrid residents) do – say 6am on weekends.

URBAN TALE Full-blooded madrileños are few and far between and are known as gatos (cats) – to qualify, a person’s two parents and four grandparents must have been born in the city. They say the term was coined as one of

Alfonso VI’s soldiers artfully scaled the formidable walls of Muslim Magerit (now Madrid) in 1085. ‘Look’, cried his comrades, ‘he moves like a cat!’ Given that there are so few that meet the requirement, many locals have taken on a very different, more welcoming marker of identity with the oft-heard phrase ‘si estas en Madrid, eres de Madrid’ (‘if you’re in Madrid, you’re from Madrid’).

Almudena Cathedral on the city skyline / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

Male // Maldives The only city in a nation of scattered coral atolls, Male floats just above the surface of the Indian Ocean. Most visitors see only a glimpse en route to the Maldives’ lavish island resorts, but this is a proper city in miniature.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Male DATE OF BIRTH: 2000 BC; evidence of the earliest settlement on Male ADDRESS: The Maldives (map 6, C12) HEIGHT: 2.1m SIZE: 5.8 sq km POPULATION: 153,904 ANATOMY Measuring just two kilometres by one kilometre, the central island of the Maldivian capital is as tiny as it is densely packed. Islanders have tried every trick under the sun to create more space, reclaiming land from the bay and throwing up high-rise apartment blocks, but the population is still growing faster than builders can keep pace. A new reclaimed island is under construction at nearby Hulhumale to accommodate the overspill. Taxis can ferry you around, but the island is so small that you can walk almost everywhere.

A tropical high-rise metropolis / LEVENTE BODO | ALAMY

PEOPLE Male’s citizens are overwhelming Muslim; the few followers of other faiths are mostly expat workers from other nations in the Indian Ocean. The local language is Dhiveni, which blends elements of Arabic and regional languages from Sri Lanka and Southern India. Citizens are laid-back and friendly but religion is taken seriously and there are strict restrictions on bringing faith objects from other religions into the country. As the political capital, Male is the epicentre of the islands’ convoluted politics, which has long been marred by corruption, nepotism and persecution of opposition politicians. BEST TIME December to February see blues skies over the atolls and clear visibility for divers, though there’s plenty going on underwater year-round. Rainfall is modest till April, when the islands get a drenching through till November. Prices peak during the European holiday seasons. A PERFECT DAY

Strolling along Boduthakurufanu Magu (Marine Drive), perhaps Male’s loveliest street, nodding hello to teenagers kicking balls around on the island’s few open spaces and pausing at the fish market to marvel at the incredible variety of the day’s catch, before dropping into a local teahouse for some delicious ‘short eats’. STRENGTHS • Island insights at the National Museum and Grand Friday Mosque • Ancient history at the coral-stone Hukuru Miskiiy • Dhonis (traditional Maldivian boats) cruising around the harbour • Curious street names – look out for Crabtree, Sweet Rose, Sun Dance, the grand River Nile, the strange Ozone or even Aston Villa • Fully-clothed bathing on Male’s Artificial Beach • Teahouses serving the islands’ best short eats WEAKNESSES • Traffic congestion – yes, even on this tiny island! • No alcohol • Some problems with gangs • Dubious politics and political unrest GOLD STAR For the Hukuru Miskiiy (Old Friday Mosque), which dates from 1656. Its walls, built with coral stones, are intricately carved with Arabic writings, ornamental patterns and graceful lacquer-work, especially in the domes. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Strode Venturer by Hammond Innes • Beach Babylon by Imogen Edward-Jones • The Maldive Mystery by Thor Heyerdahl IMPORT • Divers and honeymooners • Drinking water • Cars and mopeds • Petrol

• Foreign investors • Lawyers, to solve intractable political tangles • Almost all food, apart from fish EXPORT • Fish, fish and more fish • Tiny quantities of handicrafts • Happy holidaymakers SEE the morning bustle of the fish market, as local fishermen unload cargos of pretty much every edible fish found in the briny blue. EAT hedhikaa (short eats) – spicy sweet or savoury snacks of all varieties, such as rice pudding, tuna and coconut salad, curried fish cakes and frittered dough balls. DRINK raa, a sweet and delicious, but non-alcoholic, toddy tapped from the trunks of Palmyra palms. DO dive to the wreck of the Maldive Victory, with its wheelhouse underwater at around 15m and its propeller at 35m. WATCH football or cricket at the National Stadium. BUY fine-woven kunaa (mats) decorated with abstract geometric patterns, or elegant, hand-turned lacquered wooden boxes. AFTER DARK hop on the airport ferry and sneak over to the bar at the Hulhule Island Hotel for a refreshing cold beer.

URBAN TALE While outwardly modern, many Male citizens are superstitious about jinns – invisible spirits who can be malevolent or benign, but should always be taken seriously. Jinns are said to hover around particular trees, and vigilante gangs have been known to chop down ‘cursed’ trees

thought to harbour evil spirits, to the chagrin of town planners. Although the practice is frowned on by the authorities, Islamic mystics are often called on to intercede in incidents of jinn possession.

A small boat exits Male’s harbour / MARTIN MOXTER | GETTY IMAGES

Manchester // England Manchester’s pioneering spirit started the Industrial Revolution, a musical revolution and the Guardian newspaper, and continues to excel in a variety of fields, from food to football. Whether it’s heritage or hedonism, Manchester gets it right.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Manchester DATE OF BIRTH: AD 70; when the Romans established a fort called Mamucium ADDRESS: England (map 4, F7) HEIGHT: 73m SIZE: 115 sq km (city), 630 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 514,417 (city), 2.7 million (metro area) ANATOMY The city centre is easily walkable, or you can use the excellent Metrolink, which links the city with most outlying suburbs from its hub in unattractive Piccadilly Gardens, east of the cathedral. Just north is the hyper-hipster Northern Quarter, and to the east beyond Ancoats, Manchester City’s Etihad Stadium. Southeast you’ll find Canal St and the Gay Village, with Chinatown next door. Nineteenth-century canalside industrial buildings have been trendily developed at Castlefield and Deansgate Locks southwest of the centre. Further south are the Salford Quays and, nearby, MediaCityUK, home to ITV’s Coronation Street and a huge outpost of the BBC. Not far from here is Old Trafford, where Man United plays its home games.

Salford Quays, a cultural hub and urban renewal success story / MCCOY WYNNE | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Manchester is one of Britain’s most dynamic melting pots, with a large (15%) British-Asian population alongside a variety of other ethnic groups, including a substantial Chinese and Arab presence. Mancunians both native-born and adopted are justifiably proud of their city, which they consider to be a friendlier, more liveable alternative to London – or indeed anywhere else. And the city’s huge student population will always make sure that Manchester never forgets how to party. BEST TIME The football season runs from late August to mid-May, but the weather is more obliging between June and August. Mid-June sees Manchester Day, a celebration of all things Manchester. A PERFECT DAY Picking up some new threads on King St before queueing up for world-class pizza at Rudy’s in Ancoats. Walking down the canal toward the Etihad for that 4pm derby kickoff – and it’s a 3-3 thriller for the ages between City and United! Back into town for a few celebratory drinks in the Peveril of the Peak before some soul food, drinks and music in The Refuge. Nice one, pal. STRENGTHS • Civic pride • Harvey Nichols • Successful urban regeneration

• Canals • Manchester Pride • Manchester United/Old Trafford • Manchester City • Imperial War Museum North • Lowry Centre • Manchester Art Gallery • Manchester Smithsonian • University of Manchester • Canal St after dark • Lancashire County Cricket Club • Large choice of restaurants • Manchester airport WEAKNESSES • Crappy chain bars in the city centre • Weather • Piccadilly Gardens • The interminable roadworks GOLD STAR For its no-nonsense friendliness and warmth. STARRING ROLE IN… • 24-Hour Party People (2002) • 28 Days Later (2002) • Control (2007) • Looking for Eric (2009) • Cold Feet (TV series 1998–2003 & 2016-) • Coronation Street (TV series 1960–) • The Emigrants by WG Sebald • The Bird Room by Chris Killen • The Queen is Dead by the Smiths IMPORT • Footballers’ wives

• Students • Friedrich Engels (to work in a family cotton factory) • Scientist Ernest Rutherford • Alan Turing • Sir Alex Ferguson • The modern factory • Terraced housing EXPORT • Manchester United • Oasis • The Stone Roses • Happy Mondays • Rolls Royce motorcars • Railways • Suffragism • Vegetarianism • The Smiths • Joy Division • Artist LS Lowry • Take That • John Cooper Clarke • John Dalton • Karl Pilkington • Guardian newspaper • Anthony Burgess • Caroline Aherne • Steve Coogan • Mick Hucknall • Sir Norman Foster • Anna Friel • Albert Finney • Graphene SEE the collection of British art and European masters at the Manchester Gallery.

EAT superb modern Chinese cuisine in Tattu, Spinningfields. DRINK a real ale at the Port Street Beer House, whose choice is unparalleled in the city. DO a tour of Old Trafford and imagine wearing one of those red shirts. WATCH a play or a film at HOME, one of the best arts centres in the country. BUY stylish clothes and must-have accessories along King St. AFTER DARK toe tap to live music in Soup Kitchen in the Northern Quarter.

URBAN TALE The origins of the ‘Madchester’ years of the 1980s and early 1990s can be traced to Tony Wilson, founder of Factory Records – which released New Order’s ‘Blue Monday’, Britain’s bestselling 12-inch single. Wilson opened the Haçienda nightclub, but the real turning point came with dance music from Chicago and Detroit, DJs Mike Pickering, Graeme Park and Jon da Silva, and ecstasy – everyone in town became ‘mad for it’. Local bands the Stone Roses, Happy Mondays and the Charlatans joined in. In 1992 the Haçienda closed and the bands went quiet. Madchester is no more, but it has gone down in legend as a wild time.

A capacity crowd at Man United’s Old Trafford / JASON HAWKES | GETTY IMAGES

Maputo // Mozambique One of Africa’s most charming capitals, Maputo has a distinctly Mediterranean feel, with lively sidewalk cafes, a profusion of flowering trees, good nearby beaches and welcoming people.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Maputo DATE OF BIRTH: 1781, when the Portuguese established their first permanent trading settlement on Maputo (then Delagoa) Bay ADDRESS: Mozambique (map 1, AA20) HEIGHT: 59m – on top of the low escarpment overlooking the blue waters of Maputo Bay SIZE: 346 sq km POPULATION: 1.2 million ANATOMY Set on a small cliff overlooking Maputo Bay, the city is within easy access of some lovely patches of sand, with the scenic Inhaca and Portuguese Islands just offshore. Spreading inland is a mosaic of lively neighbourhoods, including Mafalala, one of the cradles of the Mozambican independence movement. Jacaranda and flame trees line the city’s wide avenues, while crumbling colonial-era buildings jostle for space with modern high-rises and shady sidewalk cafes. The best way to explore Maputo is on foot – a walking tour is highly recommended –although minibus tours and car hire are also options.

Fishermen prepare their nets for the day’s work / DALE JOHNSON | 500PX

PEOPLE Africans comprise about 99% of Maputo’s population, with Europeans and Indians making up the final 1%. About 60% of the population is Christian and about 30% Muslim. While Portuguese is the official language, there are many local languages, with XiRonga one of the main ones that you’ll hear in the city. BEST TIME May to October are delightful months to visit Maputo. The rains are over, the air is clear, trees are flowering and temperatures are close to perfect.

The striking Manueline facade of Maputo’s Natural History Museum / MARGARET S | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Sitting at a sidewalk cafe, taking in life on the street over a cup of cha (tea) and a bolo de arroz (rice cake), followed by a walking tour of the historical baixa area and a stop at the National Art Musuem, winding up the evening enjoying a traditional dance or musical performance at the Centro Cultural Franco-Moçambicano. STRENGTHS • Friendly Maputoans • Relaxed atmosphere • Year-round beach weather and sea breezes • Delicious seafood • Imposing street murals • The palm-tree-lined Avenida Marginal • Lively nightlife • Sunrise over Maputo Bay • Cafe culture • Colourful markets • National Art Museum • Local football matches • National Company of Song & Dance WEAKNESSES • Expensive supermarkets • Pricey hotels • Tolls on the Maputo-Johannesburg highway • Traffic congestion during rush hour • Underpaid policemen in search of bribes GOLD STAR For architecture and history. Maputo’s mix of styles – colonial, Art Deco and ultra-modern – rarely fails to intrigue. Its streets and neighborhoods are also full of historical treasures, best discovered on a walking tour.

STARRING ROLE IN… • The Gaze of the Stars (1997) • Ali (2000) • Blood Diamonds (2006) • Under the Frangipani by Mia Couto • Half a Life by VS Naipaul IMPORT • Portuguese and South African wines • European cheeses • Mobile phones • Farm equipment • Business people • Elephants (from South Africa into the Maputo Special Reserve) EXPORT • Marrabenta music • Malangatana paintings • Mia Couto novels • Athlete Maria Lurdes Mutola • Footballer Eusébio • Aluminium • Cashews • Prawns (shrimp) • Natural gas SEE the impressive 95m-long mural opposite the Praça dos Heróis Moçambicanos, commemorating the Revolution. EAT spicy Portuguese-style piri-piri (a sauce made from a particular type of chilli) chicken. DRINK the local beers – Laurentina, Manica and 2M – at one of Maputo’s lively sidewalk cafes under the shade of an acacia tree. DO soak up local rhythms at Festival Azgo in May, or at the Marrabenta

Festival in February. Watch an energetic performance of the first-rate National Company of Song & Dance. BUY up-to-the-minute import items delivered straight from the docks of Maputo Bay to the city’s air-conditioned shopping centres. AFTER DARK check out the local jazz and reggae scene at Gil Vicente Café Bar.

URBAN TALE The imposing Central Railway Station is an enormous, palace-like structure. It’s commonly thought that the building was designed by Alexandre Gustav Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), but as Eiffel himself never stepped foot in the city, it’s more likely that it was designed by one of his associates.

Mounds of produce at a municipal market / IAN TROWER | GETTY IMAGES

Marrakesh // Morocco In Marrakesh, life is performance. More than that, it’s a sensory overload, a magical evocation of an Arabian Nights-style city of mysterious scents, ancient cries of commerce, and elegant architecture from the golden era of Islamic civilisation.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Marrakesh NICKNAME: The Red DATE OF BIRTH: 1062; when the conquering Almoravid general Youssef Ben Tachfine established a fortified camp ADDRESS: Morocco (map 1, V11) HEIGHT: 460m SIZE: 70 sq km POPULATION: 928,850 ANATOMY Built around an oasis at the foot of the High Atlas Mountains, Marrakesh is a Moroccan rail and road hub. The old city is a maze of red mud-brick buildings. The French-built Ville Nouvelle (New Town) is next door, with its wide boulevards and Art Deco/Moorish architecture, while breeze-block modern suburbs sprawl out to the north and east. Extensive gardens and palm groves preserved within the New Town provide an escape from the bustling centre. Walking is usually the best way to get around, but for longer distances, petits taxis (local taxis) are fairly cheap. Horse-drawn carriages wait near Djemaa el Fna, the city’s main square, but they’re more for sightseeing than A-to-B getting around.

Always bustling, Djemaa el Fna really comes alive at night / MICHAEL HEFFERNAN | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Marrakesh is a Berber town. The Romans called them Barbari, or barbarians, and the Arab conquerors continued the practice. The Berbers themselves prefer the term Amazigh (free men), but they rarely get their own way. The language spoken by the tribes in the area is called Tashilhayt. Arabic is more common among the city’s established residents, but Marrakesh is a market town for the Amazigh, and so you will hear Tashilhayt spoken as well. There is also a substantial expat community of French, Germans and English, drawn by the climate and the culture. The result is a cosmopolitan city that feels at once profoundly Moroccan and irresistibly international. BEST TIME There’s no bad time to visit Marrakesh but the city bakes in summer (especially July and August) with daytime maximums not much below 40°C and warm nights. March to May and September to November have the nicest weather, while winter can be cold at night.

A street-food vendor shows off his wares – snails / MICHAEL HEFFERNAN | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Strolling through the souq (market), retreating from the clamour to the shade of the Menara gardens, then sitting on the terrace of Café Glacier, overlooking the Djemaa el Fna, drinking mint tea and watching the sunset turn the mud bricks from red to pink to orange, and enjoying the conversation and the fire jugglers too much to leave. STRENGTHS • Beautiful architecture • Colourful markets • The Koutoubia • The Saadian Tombs • The gardens • The relaxed atmosphere • The Festival of Popular Arts • Berber music • Street theatre • Sunny winters • Relatively gay-friendly WEAKNESSES • Overcrowding • Fiercely hot summer days • Sex tourists • High prices (for Morocco) • Pickpockets • Scammers • Endless pressure to buy a carpet

The Saadian Tombs, an elaborate royal mausoleum / JAN WLODARCZYK | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

GOLD STAR For one of the most beautiful and exotic city squares in the world, Djemaa el Fna, a world of storytellers, snake charmers and flavours conjured up before your eyes. STARRING ROLE IN… • Our Man in Marrakesh (1966) • Hideous Kinky (1999) • Marrakesh by George Orwell • The Sand Child by Tahar Ben Jelloun • Voices of Marrakesh by Elias Canetti • Lords of the Atlas by Gavin Maxwell • ‘Marrakesh Express’ by Crosby Stills and Nash IMPORT • Tourists

• Expats • Cotton • Henna • Rural immigrants EXPORT • Painters • Oil lamps • Singers • Leatherwork • Carpets • Footballer Just Fontaine • Intricate pottery • Islamic scholars • Jewellery SEE the crenellated walls of the old city glowing red from a rooftop terrace at sunset. EAT the best couscous at the stalwart of Marrakesh’s dining scene, Al Fassia restaurant. DRINK green tea with mint and sugar everywhere you go. DO a walk through the Ben Youssef Medersa. WATCH the Fantasia horse dance at the festival of Popular Arts in June. BUY leather, gorgeous Moroccan lanterns and hand-woven Berber carpets in labyrinthine souqs reminiscent of Aladdin’s Cave. AFTER DARK dance to the latest hits at hip Theatro or classic Le Diamant Noir.

URBAN TALE

Marrakesh was once the capital, and Europeans came to call the whole country after the city, corrupting the name to Morocco. However, the origin of the name itself is still a subject of dispute. Some say it means ‘mountain pass’, and some that it means ‘the land of the sons of Kutch’, the biblical grandson of Noah. Others will tell you that Marrakesh means ‘do not linger’, reflecting the danger once faced by travellers in the area, and joke that the pickpockets and charlatans of today are working to keep the name current.

Spices galore / MARIUSZ PRUSACZYK | GETTY IMAGES

Mecca // Saudi Arabia Mecca is an icon of inestimable religious and historic importance for Muslims; to spend time in Islam’s first city is a profoundly spiritual experience.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Mecca NICKNAME: Forbidden City DATE OF BIRTH: approximately 2000 BC; possibly founded by the Prophet Ibrahim (Abraham) ADDRESS: Saudi Arabia (map 5, I13) HEIGHT: 277m SIZE: 760 sq km POPULATION: 1.68 million ANATOMY The ancient city nestles on the slopes of the narrow Valley of Abraham, surrounded by dusty hills and mountains on three sides. The Sacred Mosque dominates the centre of the city and contains the Kaaba (the first temple of God constructed by Adam, later rebuilt by Ibrahim). Mecca has a fairly efficient infrastructure to cater for pilgrims, whose numbers are concentrated during the main pilgrimage, known as the hajj, when two million Muslims descend on the city.

Pilgrims walk anti-clockwise around the Kaaba / MANSOREH | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE By law non-Muslims cannot enter Mecca. The city’s permanent residents are mainly Arab-Muslims (around 80%) but there is a significant minority of nationals from other peoples and other Islamic countries, mainly Africa and Asia, who come here to study the Koran. Arabic is the main language, with English spoken by staff in some hotels. BEST TIME The best time to be in Mecca is undoubtedly during the hajj for which the dates change every year according to the dictates of the Islamic calendar. Umrah pilgrimages may be undertaken at any time, and while such a pilgrimage may lack the spiritual significance of the hajj, it is usually a quieter and much more contemplative experience. When it comes to the weather, nights can be cold from November to March and daytime

maximums hover just over 30°C in summer. But if you’re a Muslim, there’s never a bad time to be in Mecca.

The Makkah Royal Clock Tower hotel overlooks the Grand Mosque / FAYEZ NURELDINE/STAFF | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Dropping your jaw upon realising the sheer size of the Grand Mosque, using sign language to communicate with pilgrims of every nationality, quenching a burning thirst with chilled water from the public fountains, and returning to the Grand Mosque at twilight when everything is bathed in an eerie blue light. STRENGTHS • Radiating holiness • The Kaaba • The Black Stone of Kaaba • The Sacred Mosque (al-Masjid al-Haram) • Almost zero crime • Like-minded people • Unparalleled sense of history and religious importance • Incredible ornamentation • Breathtaking architecture • Lifts (elevators) in mosques • Street vendors • Huge shopping arcades • Gates to the Sacred Mosque (there are almost 100) • Multilevel ablution complex (over 2000 toilets and ablution units) WEAKNESSES • Overcrowded • Expensive GOLD STAR For the Kaaba – Muslims pray in the direction of the Kaaba all their lives and seeing it for the first time in person can be an unforgettable spiritual experience. STARRING ROLE IN…

• The Koran • The Bible (the city has been controversially identified as the ancient city Bakkah, the Biblical ‘valley of Baca’ in Psalm 84) • Personal Narrative of a Pilgrimage to Al Madinah and Meccah by Richard Burton • One Thousand Roads to Mecca edited by Michael Wolfe IMPORT • Pilgrims • Food: with scarce arable land and water, not much is grown in Mecca itself EXPORT • Islam • Hajjis (Muslims who have fulfilled the hajj pilgrimage) • Mohammed • Textiles • Dates SEE the narrow streets of the old quarter, the original heart of Mecca, with its ambience of old Arabia. EAT like a local and grab a cheap chicken or camel shwarma (meat sliced off a spit and stuffed in a pocket of pita-type bread with chopped tomatoes and garnish) from the street vendors. DRINK sweet mint tea (shay nayna) on a moonlit rooftop. DO wander out into the suburbs where you can see enormous excavations as more and more buildings are cut into the rock. WATCH the tawaf (pilgrims circling the Kaaba) from a viewing platform at the Sacred Mosque. BUY Ajwa Kajoor dates, said to contain healing powers. AFTER DARK visit the Sacred Mosque when it is less crowded and brilliantly lit up by stadium lights.

URBAN TALE The origin of the famous Black Stone which, mounted in silver, forms the cornerstone of the Kaaba, is shrouded in mystery. Legend has it that the stone fell to earth during the time of Adam, or that he brought it with him after he was exiled from God’s Kingdom. This fits in with the scholarly assumption that the stone is a meteorite, although tests to confirm this will never be permitted. The stone was stolen by Ismaili warriors in AD 930 and was returned in pieces 22 years later, hence the necessity of mounting it in silver. Although not venerated by Muslims (idolatry is forbidden), pilgrims kiss the stone in memory of the same act carried out by Mohammed.

Praying at Jabal Rahmah (Mt Arafat) is an important part of the hajj / ZURIJETA | SHUTTERSTOCK

Melbourne // Australia Stylish, creative, coffee obsessed and stark-raving sports mad, Melbourne stands tall as the country’s cultural and culinary capital.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Melbourne DATE OF BIRTH: 1835; by Tasmanian entrepreneurs keen on a mainland base ADDRESS: Australia (map 1, NN22) HEIGHT: 35m SIZE: 36 sq km (city), 9985 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 127,742 (city), 4.7 million (metro area) ANATOMY Melbourne lines Port Phillip Bay and stretches into the plains to the west and east and out to the foothills of the Dandenong Ranges. The city is divided by the muddy Yarra River, with the central business district on the north bank, set in a neat grid that suits its tram transport perfectly. To the north of the city centre, café-and-boutique filled hip Collingwood and Fitzroy vie for coolestsuburbs honours with St Kilda to the south of the Yarra with its palm-fringed promenade and stretch of sandy beach. Trams and trains are the best way to get around the city.

Princes Bridge crosses the Yarra River to Flinders St Station and Federation Sq / ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Melbourne’s population is drawn from around the world, with postwar migrations of Italian, Greek and Jewish people giving it a unique cultural make-up. Melbourne, famously, has the highest population of Greeks of any city outside of Greece itself. More recently Vietnamese, Indonesian and Malaysian people have arrived, with Melbourne having a particularly high population of international students (the fourth-largest in the world). Melbourne’s original people, the Wurundjeri, have survived all of these waves of immigration. BEST TIME Melbourne is a year-round destination where the culture and sporting calendar carries through all seasons. December to March sees hot days and balmy nights perfect for the Australian Open and music festivals, while footy finals fever takes hold of the city in September. May to September can be moody, wet and windy but it’s the perfect weather for hiding away in

Melbourne’s museums, cafés and cosy pubs. A PERFECT DAY Running a lap of the Botanic Gardens, then catching a tram to the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG) for an AFL (Australian Football League) game, afterwards dining at the hottest new place in town before heading to a pub to watch the latest local band. STRENGTHS • Free city trams • St Kilda beach • Live music • Melbourne Zoo • National Gallery of Victoria • Gold-rush-era architecture • Expansive parks and gardens • Full calendar of sporting events • Network of neighbourhoods with individual personalities • Multiculturalism • A Unesco City of Literature • Street art everywhere WEAKNESSES • Tricky traffic hook turns • Unpredictable weather • High cost of living GOLD STAR For Birrarung Marr: take a tranquil stroll along the banks of the Yarra past sculptures and indigenous flora along this path that is a tribute to the Wurundjeri People. STARRING ROLE IN… • Malcolm (1986) • Death in Brunswick (1991) • The Castle (1997)

• The Wog Boy (2000) • The Bank (2001) • Crackerjack (2002) • Harvie Krumpet (2003) • Three Dollars (2005) • Home Song Stories (2007) • My Year Without Sex (2009) • Animal Kingdom (2010) IMPORT • Paul Kelly • Great coffee • Cathy Freeman • Formula One Grand Prix EXPORT • AFL • Neighbours TV series • Kylie Minogue • AC/DC • Nick Cave • Melbourne Cup • The Australian Ballet • Heidelberg School art movement • Adam Elliot • Lonely Planet • Eric Bana • Cate Blanchett • Percy Grainger • Liam and Chris Hemsworth • Men at Work SEE the patchwork design of Federation Sq: paved with pink sandstone from the Kimberley region and with buildings clad in a fractal-patterned skin. EAT creative degustation at the hottest new place where you’ll have to queue

since it’s too popular to take bookings. DRINK coffee – single-origin, pourover, filter, espresso, flat white, you name it. DO a kayak tour along the Yarra past city landmarks. WATCH a local band at the gritty iconic Tote Hotel, Collingwood. BUY the hippest homewares and hottest fashion on Fitzroy’s Gertrude St and Smith St, Collingwood. AFTER DARK head down hidden laneways or shoot up to rooftop bars in the CBD (central business district).

URBAN TALE On 17 December 1967, Australia’s then prime minister, Harold Holt, popped out for a swim on Cheviot Beach not far from Melbourne and disappeared without a trace. Speculation was rife about what happened to the head of state, with theories ranging from suicide to defection to China via submarine. Holt’s disappearance remains a part of Melbourne culture through the rhyming-slang expression ‘to do a Harold Holt’ (or bolt) and Glen Iris’ ironically named Harold Holt Swimming Centre.

Cricket under lights at the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG) / MIKE V | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Mendoza // Argentina A bubbly little oasis town in the middle of Argentina’s most famous winegrowing region, Mendoza’s wide, walkable streets, gorgeous plazas and easy access to the nearby Andes earn it a special place in many visitors’ hearts.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Mendoza DATE OF BIRTH: 1561; when it was founded by Pedro de Castilla ADDRESS: Argentina (map 1, N21) HEIGHT: 801m SIZE: 110 sq km POPULATION: 937,150 ANATOMY First you’ll notice the trees: giant sycamores forming a canopy over the downtown avenues, shading Mendoza’s lively inhabitants from the blistering summer sun. Don’t look up for too long, though – most streets here are lined with deep acequias (open irrigation channels), a system first used by local Huarpe tribes long before the arrival of the Spanish. Many of Mendoza’s buildings date from after 1861 when a huge earthquake flattened much of the city, giving it a somewhat utilitarian look, with a few architectural gems sprinkled about. Overall, it’s a very pretty town, though, and one of Argentina’s finest cities, with outdoor cafés crowded with coffee drinkers, five beautiful central plazas, a bustling shopping district and an exciting nightlife.

Mendoza seen from above Plaza Italia / WALTER BIBIKOW | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Mendocinos are mostly European descendants (especially Spaniards and Italians) and mestizos, with some indigenous people. They speak Spanish, as well as Quechua, Araucanian and Guaraní. They are predominantly Roman Catholic (93%) with smaller percentages of Protestant, Jewish, Ukrainian Catholic and Armenian Orthodox communities. The expat community has swelled in recent years as foreign winemakers have moved in to capitalise on the region’s near-perfect grape-growing conditions. BEST TIME Unless you’re going skiing or hiking in the nearby Andes, the best times to be in Mendoza are autumn (fall; March to May) and spring (September to November) – the city can get bitterly cold during winter and suffocatingly hot at the peak of summer.

Fabulous wineries are a short hop away in Valle de Uco / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Waking up late after a night dancing in a boliche (nightclub), starting the day with a maté, going for a walk in the shaded streets and plazas, gorging yourself on an asado until late afternoon, drinking bottle after bottle of Quilmes and dancing the night away to cumbia (Colombian dance tunes), then returning home after the sun comes up to sleep through half the weekend. STRENGTHS • Damn fine Malbec wines • Laid-back atmosphere • Wide, shady avenues • Sun • Snow • The Italianate character • Inner-city greenness • Proximity to the Andes and all its adventure sports • Outdoor cafés • Open-air and handicraft markets WEAKNESSES • Dispersed layout makes for lots of walking or taxi rides between destinations • Climatic extremes • Clichéd Argentine egotism and machismo • Earthquakes GOLD STAR For being the city that converted Argentina’s wine industry from a local shame to an international success. STARRING ROLE IN… • Seven Years in Tibet (1997) • The Motorcycle Diaries (2004)

IMPORT • International mountaineers • Adventure sports • World-class winemakers • The Virgin of Cuyo, patron of San Martín’s Ejército de los Andes (Army of the Andes) • British railways (linking Chile and Argentina) • Italian culture EXPORT • General San Martín’s troops – they were trained here before the liberation of Chile in the Wars of Independence • Wine • Olive oil • Tourism to Cerro Aconcagua • Oil and gas SEE the winemaking process up close on a winery tour just out of town. EAT lomitos (beef sandwiches) at Don Claudio’s. DRINK a good Malbec at Mendoza’s Vendimia (grape-harvest) festival on the first Saturday of March each year. DO a relaxing walk around the parks and lakes of the Parque General San Martín. WATCH the underwater freak show of the bizarre exhibits at the Acuario Municipal Mendoza (Municipal Aquarium). BUY indigenous weavings at the Mercado Artesanal (Handicraft Market). AFTER DARK dine, drink and dance on Avenida Aristides Villanueva.

URBAN TALE

Puente del Inca (Bridge of the Inca), the site of spectacular hot springs a little outside of Mendoza, got its name from this Inca legend. A great Inca chief had a paralysed daughter, and all cures had failed her. The king heard that curative waters were located to the south, and without hesitation he collected his best warriors to accompany him and his daughter on the quest. When they arrived, the troops saw that the way was blocked by a torrential river. Out of loyalty to their king, the warriors stretched themselves across the river in a human bridge. The king, carrying his daughter, walked across their backs, and when he turned back to thank his warriors he saw that they had been turned to stone – hence the name.

Picturesque Valle de Uco at the foot of the Andes / EDSEL QUERINI | GETTY IMAGES

Mexico City // Mexico For sheer scale, Mexico City impresses; it’s also North America’s oldest metropolis, and its layering of European nostalgia, rich indigenous culture and modern urban energy are as exhilarating as its size.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Mexico City NICKNAME: el DF (Distrito Federal); Chilangotlán; la Ciudad de la Esperanza (City of Hope) DATE OF BIRTH: 1325; as Aztec Tenochtitlán, but rebuilt as the capital of Nueva España by the conquistadors in 1550 ADDRESS: Mexico (map 3, A3) HEIGHT: 2240m SIZE: 1499 sq km POPULATION: 8.9 million (city), 22 million (metro area) ANATOMY Set in a high, flat valley, Mexico City’s 350 crowded colonias (neighbourhoods) sprawl. The heart of the city, El Zócalo, and its surrounding museum-packed neighbourhoods and green expanses of the Alameda form the Centro Histórico. Architectural styles range across the spectrum, from the baroque to early 20th-century delights, from millennial gated communities to the outer rings of slum dwellings. There is horrendous traffic congestion, despite a metro, a large network of buses and trolley cars, and countless (and infamous) taxis.

Palacio de las Bellas Artes arts centre / JESS KRAFT | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The majority of capitalinos or chilangos, as residents are known, are Spanish-speaking mestizos, often with some other European or African heritage as well. The city’s enormous population continues to be swelled by immigrants from other parts of the country, usually from the rural south. BEST TIME The city’s biggest bash of the year is the Festival de México in March when the Centro Histórico is the site of music, theatre, dance and culinary events.

The capital’s Day of the Dead parade / BYELIKOVA OKSANA | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Brunching late at Lalos or Lardo or Nicos, and then taking a stroll around Mercado San Juan and antique shopping in El Centro; off to Contramar for lunch and drinks, then gallery hopping in San Miguel Chapultepec, followed by drinks at Hanky Panky and live music at Parker & Lennox. STRENGTHS • Museo Nacional de Antropología • The new ‘Mexican chic’ epitomised by Hotel Carlota and Las Alcobas Hotel • Palacio de las Bellas Artes • Thousands of taco stands • Art Deco in Condesa • Art Nouveau in Colonia Roma

• Casa Azul and Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo (key cultof-Kahlo sites) • Church of Santa Veracruz and the baroque Church of San Juan de Dios • Castillo de Chapultepec • Never-say-die nightlife • Highest concentration of museums in Latin America WEAKNESSES • Sprawl • Pollution • Extreme social inequalities • It’s sinking • Happy-handed rush-hour commuters on the metro

Museo Soumaya Plaza Carso art museum / CHEPE NICOLI | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For murals: Mexico City’s spirited, incendiary murals, especially those by Rivera, Siqueiros and Orozco, capture the history and psyche of the city and

the nation. STARRING ROLE IN… • Los Olvidados (1950) • The Falcon and the Snowman (1985) • Love in the Time of Hysteria (1991) • The Beginning and the End (1993) • Y Tu Mama Tambien (2001) • Frida (2002) • Spectre (2015) • The Death of Artemio Cruz by Carlos Fuentes • Savage Detectives by Roberto Bolaño • The Conquest of New Spain by Bernal Díaz del Castillo IMPORT • Leon Trotsky • André Breton • Baseball • Luis Buñuel • Bullfighting • Tina Modotti • US fast-food chains • Gabriel García Márquez • Danzón (Cuban dance) EXPORT • Mural art • Octavio Paz • Cement • Textiles • Silver • Antojitos (small tortillas with various fillings) • Musicians Rodrigo y Gabriela • Hammocks • Hugo Sánchez • Film directors Alejandro González Iñárritu and Alfonso Cuarón

SEE the Gothic, baroque and Neoclassical Catedral Metropolitana and the Aztec Templo Mayor. EAT Jorge Vallejo’s nueva cocina mexicana (new Mexican cuisine) at Quintonil: traditional dishes and locally sourced ingredients are transformed into opulent revelations (think cactus ceviche with beetroot and seaweed). DRINK pulque (maguey liquor) at Las Duelistas, a traditional working-class cantina (bar) and mezcal at la Clandestina Mezcaleria. DO escape to the shaded waterways of nearby pre-Hispanic Xochimilco and take in the music from aboard a trajinera (a gondola-like vessel). WATCH the theatrical choreography of masked heroes at lucha libra (Mexican wrestling) in the Arena México. BUY vintage embroidered dresses, paintings, wildly colourful handicrafts and antique silver at the Bazar Sábado in San Angel. AFTER DARK join the hipsters packing the terrace for live music at Centro Cultural de España housed in a rebuilt 16th-century colonial structure.

URBAN TALE Frida Kahlo is one of Mexico’s most well-known artists. Kahlo’s exquisitely sensuous work uses the pain and heartbreak of her life as a central motif. Her physical pain was all too real, the result of appalling injuries sustained in a bus accident. The teenage Kahlo’s leg and spine were shattered. Kahlo lay naked, the force of the crash having torn off her clothes, bleeding profusely and covered in the gold powder paint that a fellow passenger had been carrying. Surreally, she came to resemble a figure from a gruesome santa sangre (a form of Mexican folk painting), an image that would later haunt her work.

A lucha libra performs for the crowd / CHICO SANCHEZ | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Miami // USA Miami is a fabulous melting pot of Latin immigrants, A-list celebrities and buffed beauties, all soaking up the city’s sexy image (a magnet for tourists and style magazines), booming development and great museums and art galleries – not to mention the sun, sand and sea.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Miami DATE OF BIRTH: 1870; when William B Brickell established an Indian trading post ADDRESS: USA (map 2, P12) HEIGHT: 8m SIZE: 93 sq km POPULATION: 399,457 ANATOMY Miami and Miami Beach are separated by the Intracoastal Waterway – Miami is on the mainland, while Miami Beach sits on a strip of white sand 6km to the east. Miami Beach is home to the world-renowned Art Deco Historic District and South Beach (SoBe), drawcards for the rich, famous and fabulous. Multicultural Miami has Little Havana, initially populated by Cubans but now home to a pan-Latin community, and Little Haiti, a medley of Haitian markets and eateries. The Miami River runs through downtown Miami. Miami’s port, which regularly welcomes cruise ships, is the busiest in the world. Get around by bus or double-decker train.

A pilot boat passes South Miami Beach / PHOTOSVIT | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Fifty-eight percent of the population was born outside the USA and the largest community in Miami is Latino (particularly Cuban). The average age of inhabitants is 38. Miami is bilingual (English and Spanish). BEST TIME Miami has a tropical, humid climate with plenty of sunshine most of the year. The northern hemisphere winter, with its warm but dry days, is peak season when prices skyrocket. Late fall (autumn) and spring are warmer but still pleasant. Hurricane season lasts from June to November. The muggiest and least pleasant time is between July and October: oven-like heat prevails.

Art Deco Avalon Hotel and vintage car / KRIS DAVIDSON | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Inhaling the odour of Cuban Coffee on Little Havana’s Calle Ocho, watching old men playing dominoes in Máximo Gómez Park, then heading to South Beach for a bite and beautiful-people watching on Ocean Drive, snoozing on Lummus Park Beach and cocktails at Watr, the rooftop bar at 1 Hotel South Beach. STRENGTHS • Art Basel Miami Beach • Carnaval Miami • Art Deco Historic District • Floribbean cuisine (a mix of Caribbean, Latin and local traditions) • Mojitos (Miami’s favourite cocktail: rum, lime, sugar, mint and soda water) • Fashion Week of the Americas • Clothes shopping on Lincoln Rd Mall • Miami Heat (basketball) • Miami Dolphins (football) • Environmentally Endangered Lands (EEL) program • Everglades National Park • Gallery-hopping and dining in the Design District • Holocaust Memorial • Latin music • Rollerblading on the Promenade • Photo shoots on Glitter Beach • MiMo (Miami Modernist) architecture eg Fontainebleau Hilton • Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) • Miami Seaquarium WEAKNESSES • Around a fifth of Miamians live below the poverty line • Limited public transport • High crime rate • Unbearable summer heat • Mosquitoes in summer

• Hurricanes

South Beach palms and Art Deco buildings / TETRA IMAGES | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For colourful Art Deco architecture and a unique blend of North and South American culture. STARRING ROLE IN… • Scarface (1983) • Miami Vice (TV series, 1984–1989; film 2006) • Dexter (TV series, 2006–2013) • Marley & Me (2009) • Cold Case Squad by Edna Buchanan IMPORT • Paris Hilton • Anna Kournikova • Gloria Estefan

• Gianni Versace • Ricky Martin • Edna Buchanan • Shakira • Latin American culture EXPORT • Spanish-language television through networks Televisa and Telemundo • MTV Latin America • Royal Caribbean Cruises • Fashion designer Esteban Cortezar (Colombian born but raised here) • Latin Music Conference and Awards SEE contemporary art exhibitions and live music at the Wynwood and Design District monthly Art Walks. EAT grilled meat cooked in a Uruguayan-style wood-fired parilla at Quinto La Huella at downtown’s trendy EAST hotel. DRINK mojitos while people-watching on Ocean Drive at Lario’s on the Beach. DO a walking tour of the South Beach Art Deco Historic District. WATCH topless men gyrating on dance floors at the gay extravaganza, Winter Party Week. BUY, buy, buy at the small boutiques in Miami Beach’s Sunset Harbour. AFTER DARK indulge in all-night drinking and dancing at exclusive Story.

URBAN TALE The Biltmore Hotel in Miami’s Coral Gables is the stuff of legend. So many murders, plots and dodgy dealings have taken place here there’s a ghost-story-telling session every week in the lobby. Al Capone had a

speakeasy here during Prohibition and if you visit the Capone Suite you may be joined by the ghost of Fats Walsh who met his bloody end in this set of rooms. The hotel is hard to miss – its tower, modelled on the Cathedral of Seville’s Giralda belltower, and designed by George Merrick, is 95m high. The Dade Heritage Trust runs guided tours of the property – check out the hotel pool, it’s the largest in the USA.

The east facade of the Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM) by Herzog and de Meuron / ARMANDO COLLS | MANNYOFMIAMI.COM

Milan // Italy If you’re in need of an injection of style, simply absorb it by osmosis in Italy’s fast-paced, cosmopolitan business capital. But if impeccable design is not your glass of Campari, then Milan has historical and artistic riches aplenty.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Milan NICKNAME: Milano di Bere (Drinkable Milan); the Moral Capital of Italy DATE OF BIRTH: 7th century BC; when Celtic tribes settled along the Po – it’s been inhabited ever since ADDRESS: Italy (map 4, L13) HEIGHT: 122m SIZE: 182 sq km POPULATION: 3 million ANATOMY In the Lombardy region, Milan’s graceful architecture ranges from medieval to 19th-century elegance, to ultra-contemporary. Its major sights are concentrated in the centre, around its duomo, in the area which includes the famous upmarket shopping district, the Quadrilatero d’Oro. To the north is the Brera district, with cobbled lanes full of boutiques, and to the south is the Navigli canal area, renowned for its nightlife. It’s easy to walk the city centre, while for longer hops you can take the metro, tram or bus.

The marvellous Gothic spires and turrets of the duomo / SUSAN WRIGHT | ROME BASED PHOTOGRAPHER | HTTP://WWW.SUSANWRIGHTPHOTO.COM

PEOPLE As elsewhere in Italy, Milan has an ageing population, and the low birth rate sees this trend set to continue. The region of Lombardy contains around a quarter of all Italy’s immigrants, with the number of foreign-born inhabitants in Milan around 20%, making this Italy’s most ethnically diverse, if not integrated, city. The highest proportion of immigrants is from Asia, while the next largest proportion is from North Africa and Eastern Europe. The highest proportion of Muslims (Islam remains an unofficial religion in the country) in Italy live in Milan. The city also has the smallest household size in Italy, with an average of 1.7 people. BEST TIME March to October are the most pleasant months, though mid-summer can get quite hot and many hotels and restaurants shut in August.

Eataly is an emporium of all things foodie: produce, utensils, cookbooks, wine / SUSAN WRIGHT | ROME BASED PHOTOGRAPHER | HTTP://WWW.SUSANWRIGHTPHOTO.COM

A PERFECT DAY Starting on a high at Milan’s vision-like, stalactite-spiky Gothic duomo (cathedral) before exploring the wealth of masterpieces at either Pinacoteca di Brera or Museo Poldi Pezzoli. Lingering over lunch and window-shopping. Nourishing your soul through a visit to da Vinci’s Last Supper, before grazing on aperitivo (snacks with drinks) in the Navigli canal district or backstreet Brera. STRENGTHS • Beautiful people • Fashion and design capital • Aperitivo • The Duomo • Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper • Castello Sforzano • La Scala • FieraMilano WEAKNESSES • Fast pace • Expensive • Cold heart (some say…) GOLD STAR For having a cathedral with the most decorative statues in the world, a heady 3500 figurines, plus a not-too-shabby 135 spires. STARRING ROLE IN… • A Farewell to Arms by Ernest Hemingway • Two Gentlemen of Verona by William Shakespeare • Accidental Death of an Anarchist by Dario Fo IMPORT

• Leonardo di Vinci • Giuseppe Verdi • Giorgio Armani • (Domenico) Dolce & (Stefano) Gabbana • Dario Fo EXPORT • Miuccia Prada • Chicken Milanese • Silvio Berlusconi • Marscapone • Greta Scacchi SEE the duomo, with its sky-piercing turrets and sumptuous interior, where shafts of sunlight pierce stained glass and a statue of the flayed St Bartholomew carries his own skin. EAT fragrant, golden-hued, flavour-packed saffron risotto at one of Milan’s longstanding trattorias. DRINK a Campari Spritz (Campari, sparkling water and prosecco) or a Negroni, or anything containing the herby, red-tinged favoured Milanese tipple. DO take a boat trip along the Navigli canals, gliding past the pastel-andochre shuttered houses and canopied restaurants. WATCH an opera in the gloriously gilded splendour of La Scala. BUY some impeccable Milanese design to achieve the Italian bella figura (beautiful appearance). AFTER DARK go bar-hopping with Milanese models and designers, sipping a Negroni with a view over the Navigli canals.

URBAN TALE

Leonardo’s Last Supper was an innovation. Usually wall paintings were frescos, whereby pigment was applied to wet plaster and artists had to work fast before the plaster dried. Leonardo instead coated the wall with a base of gesso, pitch, and mastic and then painted tempera directly onto this dry base, which allowed him to work more slowly. However, the Last Supper had already started to flake off 20 years after completion. In 1526, another painter, Bellotti, restored it, but in the process repainted the work. It has since been restored eight times, with the last completed in 2000 after 20 years of work, but it’s said that the painting has been fundamentally changed by these fixes, with scarcely any of Leonardo’s original paint left. However, the essential sense of the work remains, with its extraordinary presence and composition.

Designer shoes in the fashionable shopping district of Montenapoleone / SUSAN WRIGHT | ROME BASED PHOTOGRAPHER | HTTP://WWW.SUSANWRIGHTPHOTO.COM

Monaco // Monaco The tiny but beautiful city-state of Monaco has the same relationship with glamour as its residents do with diamonds – easy, effortless and elegant – so be sure to dress appropriately.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Monaco DATE OF BIRTH: 1297; the beginning of Grimaldi rule, but the area was probably settled in Phoenician times ADDRESS: Monaco (map 4, K14) HEIGHT: 7m SIZE: 1.95 sq km POPULATION: 30,600 ANATOMY Monaco comprises six main areas: Monaco Ville (south of the port) with its pastel houses and Palais du Prince; Monte Carlo (north of the port), home to the casino and flash shops; La Condamine, southwest of the port; industrial Fontveille, south of Monaco Ville; Moneghetti, west of Condamine; and Larvotto beach, north of Monte Carlo. Elegant yachts stand proudly in the harbour, elevators (lifts) whisk people up to the higher levels and fast cars roar around before being carefully valet parked.

The port, La Condamine and Monte Carlo / ARTHERNG | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Monaco is ruled by the Grimaldi royal family. Residents do not pay income tax so Monaco has become a tax haven for many foreign celebrities. Only 16% of residents are Monégasque – most of the others are French and Italian. Citizens have a high standard of living, with low unemployment and low crime rates. They also have the world’s highest life expectancy: 89.5 years. The official language is French, but many street signs also appear in the local dialect, Monégasque. This dialect, which is a mixture of French and Italian, is taught in schools. Finally, of course, residents are glamorous and expensively dressed, drive super-cars and own luxury yachts. BEST TIME March, April, September and October offer warm, breezy weather combined with reasonable crowds and room rates. May brings a spike in tourists and prices for the Monaco Grand Prix. Peak season is June to August, when visitors arrive en masse to take advantage of the perfect Mediterranean summer climate. Winter can be a bit chilly.

The changing of the guard at the Palais du Prince takes place on the hour, every hour / CHRIS MELLOR | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Coasting your private helicopter onto a friend’s huge catamaran to drink cosmopolitans and fine dine, followed by a spot of blackjack in a private room at the casino. STRENGTHS • Monaco Grand Prix • Casino de Monte Carlo (Europe’s first casino) • Palais du Prince • Musée Océanographique de Monaco • No income tax • Low crime rate • Royal family • Chic shops • Being a sovereign state • Elevators (lifts) up through the rock • The Mediterranean • Jardin Exotique • Collection de Voitures Anciennes (the prince’s vintage car collection) • Local beaches like Plage du Larvotto • Glitz and glamour WEAKNESSES • If you don’t have a gold or platinum card, this place will not be much fun.

The neoclassical Opéra de Monte Carlo adjoins the casino / ROSTISLAV GLINSKY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

GOLD STAR For glamour – Monaco never goes out of style. STARRING ROLE IN… • L’Inconnue de Monte Carlo (1938) • Herbie Goes to Monte Carlo (1977) • GoldenEye (1995) • Iron Man 2 (2010) • Grace of Monaco (2014) IMPORT • Grace Kelly • Novak Djokovic • Lewis Hamilton • Jenson Button • Roger Moore

• David Coulthard • Ringo Starr • Björn Borg • Julian Lennon • Alain Ducasse EXPORT • The Grimaldi Royal Family • Style and sophistication • Perfumes • Snazzy casino culture SEE a slice of life under the sea at the world-famous aquarium Musée Océanographique de Monaco. EAT fine cuisine at Alain Ducasse’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant, Louis XV (Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris). DRINK champagne and play count-the-limousine at the Café de Paris. DO visit the lush Jardin Exotique and breathe in the incredible view. WATCH one of the most thrilling car races in the world – Monaco’s Grand Prix. BUY designer gear and precious jewels in the lavish boutiques on ave des Beaux-Arts. AFTER DARK make like James Bond and have a flutter in the beautifully ornate Casino de Monte Carlo.

URBAN TALE American actress Grace Kelly is the legendary star of Monaco’s history. After falling madly in love with Prince Rainier III, she married him in 1956 and became Princess Grace. On 14 September 1982 she was

tragically killed in a car accident in Monaco Ville after reportedly suffering a stroke at the wheel. She is buried in the Byzantine Cathédrale de Monaco and visitors keep her grave covered in flowers. Her beloved husband died on 6 April 2005 and was buried next to her.

A vintage racecar tries out the Grand Prix track / STEPHANHOEROLD | GETTY IMAGES

Montevideo // Uruguay One of South America’s best-kept secrets, Montevideo is a culturally vibrant city with an eclectic mix of colonial Spanish, Italian and Art Deco architecture and a plethora of superb sandy beaches.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Montevideo DATE OF BIRTH: 1726; when the Spanish fleet established a citadel in response to the burgeoning Portuguese in the Rio de la Plata area ADDRESS: Uruguay (map 1, P21) HEIGHT: 22m SIZE: 201 sq km POPULATION: 1.3 million ANATOMY Lying on the west bank of the Río de la Plata (River Plate), Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) attracts most visitor attention. The Rambla (riverfront boulevard) rambles eastward past numerous public parks (including Parque Rodó), and along a 15km-long series of sandy beaches in the outlying neighbourhoods of Punta Carretas, Pocitos and Carrasco. Montevideo’s buses are reliable, but most stop running around midnight, while taxis are safe, on the meter and reasonably priced.

Playa Pocitos is a lively urban beach / PETER GROENENDIJK/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Predominantly white (88%) with 8% mestizo (with mixed Spanish and indigenous blood) and 4% black, Montevideo’s population includes many European immigrants, mostly from Spain and Italy. Economic stagnation and political decline in the mid-20th century also saw many rural folk flood into Montevideo’s city slums. A city of lovers (of the arts) not fighters (bar-room brawls are rare), Montevideanos pride themselves on being the opposite of the hot-headed Latin-American stereotype. BEST TIME Come in January or February for Montevideo’s month-long Carnaval, marked by street parades, costumed performers and frenzied Afro-Uruguayan drumming. The weather is suitable for travel year-round, with cold winds in winter (June to August) and hot summers (December to January).

The colonnade of Teatro Solís, Montevideo’s premier performance space / KSENIYA RAGOZINA | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Perusing the opulent 19th-century furnishings of Montevideo’s Museo Romántico and the costumes and musical instruments at Museo del Carnaval, then tucking into a seriously sumptuous steak in the Mercado del Puerto before heading off for an afternoon of beach-hopping along the riverfront Rambla. STRENGTHS • Historical Ciudad Vieja • Laid-back atmosphere • Weeks of colourful Carnaval celebrations • White sandy beaches • Lively street markets • Mercado del Puerto • A wealth of (mostly) free museums • Rich artistic and cultural heritage • Teatro Solís (superb acoustics and a quality roster of local and international performers) • The neoclassical Palacio Legislativo (Parliament) WEAKNESSES • Sprawling urban layout; not the world’s best walking city • Shabby 20th-century buildings detract from the aesthetic appeal of the city’s historic architecture GOLD STAR For Montevideo’s port market, Mercado del Puerto, which was the continent’s finest when it opened back in 1868. The impressive wrought-iron superstructure bustles with craftspeople, street musicians and traditional parrillas (steakhouses). STARRING ROLE IN… • State of Siege (1973)

• Burnt Money (2000) • Gigante (2009) IMPORT • The Spanish • The Italians • Candombe (an African-derived rhythm brought to Uruguay by slaves) • Argentine holidaymakers EXPORT • The football World Cup (Uruguay were the first-ever hosts and winners in 1930) • Progressive politics (Latin American leader in legalising marijuana, gay marriage and abortion) • Beef • Writer Juan Carlos Onetti • Painter Juan Manuel Blanes • Playwright Mauricio Rosencof • Tango legend Carlos Gardel SEE the crumbling vestiges of grand 19th-century Neoclassical buildings, legacies of the beef boom, in Ciudad Vieja. EAT obscenely big steaks at parrillas inside the Mercado del Puerto. DRINK medio y medio (a knockout blend of local sparkling and white wines) in Bartholomew Mitre, Montevideo’s liveliest bar precinct. DO cycle or ride bus No 64 along the riverfront Rambla – Montevideo’s beaches get better the further you go. WATCH local football rivals Nacional and Peñarol at Montevideo’s Estadio Centenario stadium. BUY everything from antique knick-knacks to fried fish at Montevideo’s sprawling outdoor market, the Feria de Tristán Narvaja.

AFTER DARK whip that rose between your chompers and take on the tango at Fun Fun or Mercado de la Abundancia.

URBAN TALE Montevideo’s full name is San Felipe y Santiago de Montevideo. According to one definition, it’s derived from the Portuguese ‘Monte vide eu’ (I saw a mountain). Another definition is that Spanish cartographers noted the location as ‘Monte VI de Este a Oeste’ (The sixth mountain from east to west). Regardless, Montevideo’s moniker has something to do with mountains and absolutely nothing to do with that thing that killed the radio star.

A statue of independence hero José Artigas stands before Palacio Salvo in Plaza Independencia / OLAF SPEIER | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Montréal // Canada As the locals say, it’s Europe and America rolled into one: achingly hip, proudly diverse, bilingual, and all set in a rousing frontier landscape.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Montréal DATE OF BIRTH: 1642; when the lure of fur and savage souls in need of saving – in this case Iroquois – saw Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve found Ville-Marie ADDRESS: Canada (map 2, R3) HEIGHT: 57m SIZE: 365 sq km POPULATION: 1.65 million ANATOMY Montréal occupies an island on the north shore of the St Lawrence River. Modern skyscrapers mix with 18th- and 19th-century greystones in the distinct neighbourhoods that cluster around Mont-Royal, known locally as ‘the mountain’. ‘The Main’, the busy and cosmopolitan rue Saint Denis and the blvd Saint Laurent, delineate traditional French–English boundaries. Commuters here are happy to use the excellent metro and bus system or, for those not deterred by the city’s steep inclines, pedal power.

Montréal’s fall colours / SAPTASHAW CHAKRABORTY | 500PX

PEOPLE More than 70% of Montréalers claim French as their first language, though most speak both French and English nowadays. Traditional cultural and linguistic boundaries are fast eroding, due to a younger, globally focused generation and the city’s large number of migrants. Montréal boasts a diverse ethnic profile: 10% of the population has Italian heritage and there are also significant Haitian, Chinese, Portuguese, Jewish, Greek and various Middle Eastern communities. They still might not earn as much as their New York or Toronto counterparts, but Montréalers are increasingly happy to stay put, citing a fantastic festival calendar, a sense of cultural renaissance and new business confidence as just some of the reasons to stay. More often than not locals are laid-back, liberal and a little eccentric. Montréalers are famously stylish, fanatical about food and fond of a party. They also love the outdoors and pounding the puck, hockey being the city’s favourite spectator sport. BEST TIME June to August (summer) is festival season, the perfect time to appreciate Montréal’s charms, both indoors and out.

acts attend the annual jazz festival / JOSEPH S L TAN MATT | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Strolling the historic streets and waterfront of Vieux-Montréal, café-hopping in the Quartier Latin, shopping the fashion boutiques along rue Ste-Catherine and surveying the city from the heights of the Parc du Mont-Royal. Come evening, nabbing dinner at a little Plateau bistrot before enjoying a live performance at the Quartier des Spectacles arts complex. STRENGTHS • The Mountain • Nightlife • Festival International de Jazz de Montréal – North America’s largest • Thousands of restaurants (many of them BYO) • Thriving indie band scene • Bixi, North America’s first major urban bike-sharing program

• Spontaneous Tam-Tams drum sessions on summer Sundays in Parc du Mont-Royal • The Botanical Gardens’ Chinese and Japanese lantern festival • Gay Village • Chic sartorial style WEAKNESSES • Spiralling rents • Subarctic cold snaps of 40°C below • Lingering Anglophone–Francophone tensions

Cafe life in Plateau Mont-Royal / NICOLAS MCCOMBER | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR

For cuisine – affordable, eclectic, sophisticated and symbolic of Montréal’s contented multiculturalism. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Decline of the American Empire (1986) • Jesus of Montreal (1989) • Life of Pi (2012) • The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz by Mordecai Richler • Bonheur d’Occasion (The Tin Flute) by Gabrielle Roy IMPORT • Hollywood film shoots • Catholicism • Students • Corneille, Rwandan-born R&B star • Pizza, bagels and Portuguese chicken EXPORT • Cirque du Soleil • Jazz pianist Oscar Peterson • Hockey studs • 3D animation and visual effects (think Jurassic World, Avatar and The Hunger Games) • Fur • Singer-songwriter Leonard Cohen • Actor William Shatner • Fashion • The Trudeau family of Canadian politicians • Montréal smoked meat (cured, spiced beef brisket) SEE the Old Port from the observation tower of the Chapelle Notre Dame de Bonsecours, the pretty Sailors’ Church. EAT poutine (French fries with pork gravy and cheese curds, a Québécois classic).

DRINK your choice of some dozen-plus microbrews at Brasserie Dieu du Ciel, a perennial Mile End favourite. DO an icy lap at the blissfully bucolic Lac Aux Castors rink. WATCH international musicians perform hundreds of concerts – most of them free – during Montréal’s behemoth annual Jazz Fest. BUY fur without the guilt: recycled pelt products from stylish Harricana, in Downtown. AFTER DARK and, in true Montréal style, after daybreak, shake your thing at the city’s famous clubs along blvd St-Laurent and rue St-Denis.

URBAN TALE During the bitter winter months Montréalers seek refuge from the cold underground. Founded in 1962, Montréal’s famous Underground City (aka RESO) is a vast 32km (20-mile) network of subterranean passageways that connect metro stations, hotels, restaurants, shops, museums and even the Bell Centre hockey arena, allowing residents and visitors to conduct their daily business without ever venturing outdoors.

Iconic apartment complex Habitat 67 / KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI | GETTY IMAGES

Moscow // Russia Mixing Soviet brutalism with old-world elegance, fast, noisy and in constant flux, Moscow is overwhelming in every way. Fresh after a major spruce-up in recent years, it comes across as a progressive, forward-looking city, with gentrified parks, old factories and a fast-expanding metro network.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Moscow NICKNAME: The Third Rome DATE OF BIRTH: 1147; first mentioned in the historic chronicles when prince Yury Dolgoruky invited his allies to a banquet there ADDRESS: Russia (map 4, AA5) HEIGHT: 156m SIZE: 2511 sq km POPULATION: 12.2 million ANATOMY The Moscow River weaves its way through the city, with the Kremlin and Red Sq on the northern bank. An enormous road called Garden Ring defines the boundaries of the downtown area. North of the Kremlin are the city’s busiest areas with thousands of shops and restaurants. The southern bank, known as Zamoskvorechye, is markedly quieter, with low-rise buildings and beautiful onion-domed churches.

The Kremlin graces Moscow’s waterfront / YULIYA BATURINA | 500PX

PEOPLE Ethnic Russians nominally comprise 86% of the population but several million unregistered migrant workers from Central Asia alter the landscape. There are also sizeable (and visible) Tatar and Caucasian communities, as well as a once large, but now shrinking, community of Western expats. BEST TIME Fresh and clean, with flowerbeds everywhere and preparations for Victory Day parade in full swing, Moscow is best visited in early May. The additional advantage is that it is a holiday period, which means fewer traffic jams and fewer people in an otherwise very crowded city. For the same reason, many people come during the first ten days of January, when proper white winter descends on the city and you can indulge in outdoor winter fun skating at the giant rink set up at Gorky Park, hitting skiing trails and dipping into ice cold water, before getting full hot steam treatment at banyas (Russia saunas).

The Monument to the Conquerors of Space celebrates the space exploits of the former Soviet Union / MATTHEW HARRISON | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Wandering about Red Sq in the snow, with flurries around the domes of stunning St Basil’s Cathedral, watching soldiers goose-stepping around Lenin’s pyramidal mausoleum, then slipping into a warm cafe and sampling ex-Soviet cuisines you’ve never heard of. STRENGTHS • The super-efficient and aesthetically impressive Moscow metro • Mindboggling eclectic architecture • Colourful onion-domed churches • The smell of power lingering in the air • History round every corner • Great culinary scene • Impressive art collections, both traditional and modern • Much more affordable since the rouble collapsed in 2014 WEAKNESSES • The weather (snow on the ground for half the year) • The city’s sheer inhuman size • Terrible traffic jams • Stressed-out residents GOLD STAR For the Moscow metro. Hands down the best in the world – over 150 stations, used by nine million people a day and breathtakingly efficient (you’ll never wait more than two minutes for a train). Moreover, it’s a joy to travel on, with elaborate chandeliers and marble-clad platforms, socialist realist art and political sculpture to entertain the masses. STARRING ROLE IN… • Moscow Doesn’t Believe in Tears (1979) • The Saint (1997) • The Barber of Siberia (1998)

• Night Watch (2004) • Mission Impossible – the Ghost Protocol (2011) IMPORT • Hipster culture • Limousines • Western bookkeepers for oil oligarchs • Fruit in winter EXPORT • Political influence • Oil, lots of it • Kaspersky anti-virus • Masha & Bear cartoon • Oligarchs on the run SEE the magnificent cathedrals inside the Kremlin. EAT great Georgian, Central Asian and modern Russian food. DRINK vodka: who cares that Russians don’t drink as they used to. DO not miss your chance to see Lenin up close and personal at his mausoleum. WATCH the offerings at the world-famous and freshly-renovated Bolshoi Theatre. BUY Russian designer clothes from one of newly established boutiques, such as Katya Dobryakova. AFTER DARK head to Delicatessen or Timeout for some potent liquors.

URBAN TALE So fascinated with Lenin was Stalin that after Lenin’s death he ordered

Lenin’s brain to be removed and experimented upon to see what made up the pure Communist mind. The experiments were rather fruitless (as you might expect), but Lenin’s head was sewn up again and now sits on daily display in Red Sq. He’s looking rather green around the gills, but can you blame him? Cynics suggest that his entire head is made of wax these days anyway.

The palatial Mayakovskaya metro station / ANDREY KRYUCHENKO | 500PX

Mumbai // India A vital hub for finance, fashion and film, cosmopolitan and irrepressibly vibrant Mumbai is where India faces the world. It’s a place of rampant inequality, but abundant opportunity for those who arrive daily seeking glory.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Mumbai NICKNAME: Gateway to India DATE OF BIRTH: 1661; when a string of fishing villages and the harbour were acquired by the British ADDRESS: India (map 6, C8) HEIGHT: 11m SIZE: 603 sq km (city), 4355 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 12.4 million (city), 20.7 million (metro area) ANATOMY Mumbai sprawls across seven islands tagged together into an artificial isthmus. The historic heart of the city is concentrated on the districts of Fort and Colaba at the southern end of the spit. On the western shore, Marine Dr forms a graceful curve towards the genteel quarters of Breach Candy and Malabar Hill and the brash new suburbs of Bandra and Juhu to the north. Staggeringly crowded overland trains connect suburbs to centre; downtown, people get around by taxi and buses.

The Gateway of India overlooks Mumbai Harbour / ADRIAN POPE | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The majority of Mumbai’s millions are Hindu (67%), but there is also a sizeable Muslim minority (19%), and significant populations of Christians, Buddhists, Jains and Parsis – followers of Zoroastrianism, who originally migrated from Persia. By and large, communities co-exist peacefully, but tensions simmer between Mumbai Muslims and the hardline Hindu city council. Mumbai’s wealth is concentrated in the hands of a minority; one third of the population live in squalid chawls (cramped tenements) and shanty towns. BEST TIME Mumbai is at its best from October to April, with clear skies and moderate temperatures. The monsoon drenches Mumbai from May to September, but this is also the season for Ganesh Chaturthi, when idols of the elephantheaded god are immersed in rivers, ponds and the sea.

Colourful decorated trucks are a common sight / MARK WILLIAMSON | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Joining the promenading couples along Marine Dr at sunset, then ducking onto Girgaum Chowpatty beach for a plate of bhelpuri – Mumbai’s favourite snack – before hailing a taxi to the traveller institution of Leopold Cafe, or, for a more sophisticated night out, a slap-up dinner at Indigo. STRENGTHS • Remarkable diversity, energy and verve • Gems of colonial architecture • Bollywood, now accessible on film-studio tours • The financial bustle of Fort and Nariman Point • Fine dining and elegant nightlife • Arty events at Kala Ghoda • Jewish heritage WEAKNESSES • India’s highest cost of living

• Unbelievable traffic congestion • Standing room only on suburban trains • Enormous disparities in wealth • A powerful criminal underworld • Hindu-Muslim tensions

Young Indians enjoying a game of cricket in Cross Maidan / AMOS CHAPPLE | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For glorious architectural heritage. During the colonial period, European building styles were reinvented with an Indian edge, blending elements from Gothic cathedrals, Islamic palaces and Hindu temples into one stunning whole. Victoria Terminus is perhaps the most famous example of this chimeric style. STARRING ROLE IN… • Salaam Bombay! (1988) • Bride and Prejudice (2004) • Slumdog Millionaire (2008) • Midnight’s Children by Salman Rushdie • A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry • Maximum City: Bombay Lost and Found by Suketu Mehta

IMPORT • Victorian architecture • British bureaucracy • Western-style consumerism • Parsi refugees • Jewish entrepreneurs • Perfumers seeking oud (agarwood essence) • Cinema – the Lumière Brothers screened the first film here in 1896 • Migrants from the countryside EXPORT • Bollywood blockbusters • Literary giants Rudyard Kipling and Salman Rushdie • Fashion moguls • Movie megastars Amitabh Bachchan, Shah Rukh Khan and Aishwarya Rai • Art maestro Anish Kapoor • Cricket legend Sachin Tendulkar • Textiles (cotton built Mumbai’s fortunes) SEE the magnificent Hindu sculptures in the Elephanta Caves, hewn out of the bedrock of a granite island in Mumbai Harbour. EAT bhelpuri – Mumbai’s signature salad of puffed rice, crisp gram-flour noodles, chillies, green mango and tamarind. DRINK a flamboyant cocktail in a place-to-be-seen Bandra dance club. DO ride the suburban trains to Sanjay Gandhi National Park, where tigers and leopards still lurk within the city limits. WATCH the opening night of the latest blockbuster at the classic Art Deco Eros Cinema in Churchgate. BUY a designer kurta (flowing shirt) from Ritu Kumar or a rival big-name designer at Phoenix High Street in Lower Parel. AFTER DARK head to Bluefrog for the cutting edge in Mumbai music,

performance and stand-up.

URBAN TALE Nothing fascinates visitors more than the tradition of sky burials amongst Mumbai’s Parsi community. At the Towers of Silence, hidden from view on Malabar Hill, generations of departed Mumbaikers have been ceremonially laid out beneath the sky, to be picked clean by crows and vultures. Spectators are kept well away from this rather gruesome spectacle, but urban legend tells of bird-carried body parts dropping from the sky in the towers’ heyday.

Ancient scultures in the caves of Elephanta Island / ROBIN KAY | SHUTTERSTOCK

Munich // Germany Regularly voted by Germans as the most desirable place to live, the capital of Bavaria’s beguiling line-up of attractions includes grand architecture, worldclass museums, boisterous beer halls, well-dressed people and the worldfamous Oktoberfest.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Munich NICKNAME: Millionendorf (Village of a Million People) DATE OF BIRTH: 1158; when Heinrich der Löwe (Henry the Lion) became ruler ADDRESS: Germany (map 4, M11) HEIGHT: 519m SIZE: 310 sq km POPULATION: 1.53 million ANATOMY Many of Munich’s historic attractions cluster in the Altstadt (old town) which centers on Marienplatz. North of here lie the art district and Schwabing with the university, chic cafes and the enormous Englischer Garten. Attractions still further north are the Olympic Park and the BMW museum, while Schloss Nymphenburg is well worth the trip northwest of the city centre. Besides walking, Munich’s excellent public-transport network (MVV) is the best way to get around.

The red roofs and turrets of Munich / WESTEND61 | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Munich is Germany’s third-largest city. More than one in four residents does not have a German passport, with the largest foreign contingent hailing from Turkey, followed by Croatia, Italy and Greece. About 33% of the population is Catholic, 12% protestant, 7.2% Muslim and 0.3% Jewish. BEST TIME There’s no danger of ever getting bored in Munich, no matter what time of year you visit. May to September bring the best beer-garden weather, but true aficionados may want to coordinate their trip with the Starkbierzeit festival (strong beer season, in February or March) or with Oktoberfest in late September. In December, Marienplatz erupts in a blaze of Yuletide cheer during one of Germany’s loveliest Christmas markets.

The Brandhorst Museum houses a private collection of modern art / CHRISTIAN BEIRLE GONZÁLEZ | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Joining locals for a breakfast of Weisswurst (veal sausage) with sweet mustard, preferably in an historic beer hall, then picking up gourmet goodies on Viktualienmarkt before tucking into a fresh Schmalznudel (local donut) at Café Frischhut. At night, warming up at a beer hall, then reporting to the Feierbanane (Party Banana), a curved strip of clubs and bars between Sendlinger Tor and Maximiliansplatz in the city centre. STRENGTHS • Sausages, particularly the Weisswurst (veal sausage) • Superb beer in atmospheric beer halls and beer gardens • High standard of living and quality of life • Great public transport • Bicycle friendly • Enchanting outdoor spaces such as the vast Englischer Garten • Multicultural population and international flair • Clean and safe • Stunning royal palaces such as the Residenz and Schloss Nymphenburg • Historic squares such as Marienplatz • Oktoberfest • Art museums such as the Pinakothek and the Lenbachhaus • FC Bayern München soccer club • Münchener Philharmoniker • Proximity to the Bavarian Alps WEAKNESSES • Highest rents and living costs in Germany, and still rising… • Artery-clogging local dishes such as roast pork knuckle • The Föhn – static-charged wind from the south that gives people headaches and makes them irritable • Lots of red tape, rules and regulations • Long and dark winters

Sharing a stein or two at Oktoberfest / NIKADA | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For beer – it’s no surprise: in the Bavarian capital you can guzzle some of the world’s best suds, preferably in a lively beer hall or an enchanting beer garden. STARRING ROLE IN… • Die Sehnsucht der Veronika Voss (The Longing of Veronika Voss, 1982) • Marlene (2000) • Munich (2005) • Sophie Scholl – Die Letzten Tage (Sophie Scholl – The Final Days, 2005) • Herr und Hund by Thomas Mann IMPORT • Street food and food trucks • Superfoods and vegan fare • Writer Thomas Mann • Filmmaker Wim Wenders

• Filmmaker Rainer Werner Fassbinder • Artist Paul Klee EXPORT • Beer • Weisswurst (veal sausage) • BMW • Blaue Reiter artist group • Artist Franz Marc • Siemens • Pharmaceutical research and medical technology • Filmmaker Werner Herzog • Soccer legend Franz Beckenbauer • Musicologist Alfred Einstein • Composer Richard Strauss • Composer Carl Orff SEE the stunning Schloss Nymphenburg with its majestic interiors and sculpted gardens. EAT traditional Bavarian fare at the famous Hofbräuhaus. DRINK delicious Bavarian beer in an olde-worlde beer hall, convivial beer garden or during the Oktoberfest madness. DO take a stroll around the endlessly enticing Englischer Garten and feel free to strip off and sunbathe. WATCH the characters of the delightful glockenspiel (carillon) dance and celebrate on Marienplatz. BUY local designer fashion in the boutiques of Schwabing and Haidhausen. AFTER DARK prepare for a long night of merriment along the Feierbanane party mile.

URBAN TALE The Fischbrunnen (Fish Fountain) on Marienplatz just outside the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) is not only a popular meeting place but also the site of two long-cherished rituals. If you dip your purse into it on Ash Wednesday, it is said to bring you prosperity the rest of the year. And every three years, butchers’ apprentices are ‘baptized’ into their profession by jumping into the water.

Surfing the standing river wave in the Englischer Garten / CRISTIAN BAITG | GETTY IMAGES

Muscat // Oman Compared to its nouveau riche neighbours around the Persian Gulf, Muscat feels old and established, and its walled old city retains a hint of Arabian Nights magic, despite the malls and ‘golden teapot’ topped roundabouts.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Muscat NICKNAME: The Three Cities DATE OF BIRTH: 1741; when Imam Ahmed bin Said made Muscat the capital of the Oman, but Ptolemy described a port at Muscat as early as the 2nd century AD ADDRESS: Oman (map 5, Q12) HEIGHT: 5m SIZE: 1500 sq km (city), 3500 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 25,000 (city), 838,000 (metro area) ANATOMY Muscat is wedged between the sea and a jagged spine of mountains, and rocky spurs split the city into a series of suburbs. The gated old city of Muscat sits on a natural harbour and is flanked on the coast by Mutrah, with latticed buildings and mosques lining its curving corniche. Inland lies Ruwi, Oman’s ‘little India’, the commercial and transport hub of the capital. Plentiful public buses link the three cities, but many rent a private car or airconditioned taxi.

The entrance to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque / JOCHEN TACK | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Although the city’s native population is predominantly Arabic, Omanis are outnumbered by expats, including a huge Indian community, which has been trading in Muscat for at least 200 years. You’ll also see many Omanis of African descent, a reminder of the slave trade that was only abolished here in 1970. Arabic is the official language but English is also enthusiastically spoken – a legacy of the British protectorate that checked Omani power in the 19th century. Muscatians follow the Ibadi sect of Islam and are tolerant of other religious groups, following the example of Oman’s progressive leader, Sultan Qaboos. BEST TIME Muscat bakes in summer and it pays to avoid the scorching months from May to September. November to February is the best time, with hot, but not furnace-like, days and balmy evenings.

The Grand Mosque’s intricate interior / RAMON RUTI | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Visiting Mutrah at dawn to watch fish-sellers singing the praises of the day’s haul of tuna, kingfish and dorado, then stopping to enjoy a layered pomegranate, custard apple and mango juice before haggling for frankincense, khanjar daggers and dishdashas (men’s robes) at the Mutrah souq. STRENGTHS • The reforming agenda of Sultan Qaboos • Fortresses along the skyline • Mutrah’s fishing-village feel • Wacky roundabout sculptures • Museums and historic relics in the walled city • Diving offshore; mountain walks inland • Fusion flavours from Ruwi’s Indian expats • Spotlessly clean streets • Good beaches nearby WEAKNESSES • Stultifying desert heat • Limited things to do after dark • Alcohol only sold in hotels, or to expats with a licence • Erratic driving by hungry drivers during Ramadan GOLD STAR For Mutrah’s souq – despite the Gulf modernisation, it still has a hint of mystery and magic. You’ll find everything in its tightly packed alleyways from orange juice and washing lines to gold, myrrh and frankincense (traded in Oman since Old Testament times). STARRING ROLE IN… • The Icarus Agenda by Robert Ludlum • Sultan in Oman by Jan Morris

IMPORT • The English language • Portuguese castle-building technology • Indian merchants • Excellent Indian food • Expats in their thousands • Fast food and Western fashion brands • Football • Small amounts of alcohol (for expats only) EXPORT • Frankincense • Fresh fish from the Gulf and the Arabian Sea • Dates and limes • Camels • Khanjar daggers • Oud (lute) players SEE 125 years of graffitied records left by visiting sailors above the harbour walls. EAT delicious, inexpensive Arabic-Indian fusion food at Muscat’s abundant ‘coffee-shops’. DRINK with the expat set in one of Muscat’s posh hotel bars – Trader Vic’s is a perennial favourite. DO visit the Sultan’s Palace (it’s almost obligatory) then enjoy a more revealing introduction to Omani culture at the Bayt al Zubair museum. WATCH world-class opera (yes, opera) at the prestigious Royal Opera House Muscat. BUY Omani frankincense in the Mutrah souq, then wonder why exactly you need frankincense… AFTER DARK order a coffee and a slice of halwa (an Arabic sweetmeat)

then take a calming stroll along the Mutrah Corniche.

URBAN TALE One of Muscat’s most romantic legends records the fall of the Al Mirani fort, one of the most important bastions of Portuguese power in Oman. As the story goes, the Portuguese commander fell in love with the daughter of one of his Hindu suppliers, pressuring the trader to prepare a lavish wedding. Disapproving of the match, the supplier smuggled all of the gunpowder out of the fort during the wedding preparations, then tipped off Sultan Bin Saif that the bastion was defenceless. Al Mirani fell in 1649 after a minimal siege, and the whole Portuguese colony fell shortly after.

Mutrah’s corniche glows at sunset / MATTEO COLOMBO | GETTY IMAGES

Nairobi // Kenya The Kenyan capital has come a long way from its rough-and-ready beginnings. Modern malls and skyscrapers climb over the centre, but big game still stalks within sight of the city.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Nairobi DATE OF BIRTH: 1899, as part of the construction of the Uganda Railway ADDRESS: Kenya (map 1, AA16) HEIGHT: 1663m SIZE: 696 sq km POPULATION: 3.1 million ANATOMY Sprawling over a flat plain between snow-capped Kilimanjaro and Mt Kenya, Nairobi lacks obvious geographical landmarks, with the notable exception of the Ngong Hills, which rise to the west of the city. The modern central business district is laid out on a tidy grid, spread between Uhuru Park and the Nairobi River, but most inhabitants live in the surrounding suburbs. Some, such as Lavington and Westlands, are the haunt of wealthy expats and the moneyed middle-classes; at the other end of the spectrum is Kibera, the largest urban slum in Africa. Getting around Nairobi is easy, but sometimes treacherous: crime is commonplace and local matatus (shared minibus taxis) and buses take death-defying risks while overtaking.

Africa’s ‘big five’ roam within sight of the city skyline / VERÓNICA PARADINAS DURO | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The population of Nairobi comes from a wide spread of indigenous tribes, alongside a significant number of expats and refugees from surrounding nations. Besides English (the official language) and the widely spoken Swahili, Nairobi citizens speak dozens of tribal languages. The population is approximately 35% Protestant, 30% Roman Catholic, 30% Muslim and 5% Animist. Western clothing is the norm, but you’ll spot day-trippers from the countryside in traditional tribal costume at the bus and matatu stands. BEST TIME Being close to the equator, but well above sea level, Nairobi is warm rather than sizzling hot, but humidity peaks during the ‘long rains’ from March to May and the ‘short rains’ from October to December. At other times, expect dry, warm days and cooler nights. A PERFECT DAY

Kicking off with a locally sourced coffee at the veteran Nairobi Java House, then discovering the backstory of the Kenyan capital at the Nairobi Museum, and getting a taste of Out of Africa at Isak Dinesen’s colonial home, now the Karen Blixen Museum. With an early enough start, still having time for your first African safari at Nairobi National Park, just 7km from the city centre. STRENGTHS • Pulsing African rhythms at bars and clubs • Tropical temperatures, pleasingly moderated by the high elevation • Abundant air-conditioning • Markets piled high with tribal curios • Modern malls with a fair-trade agenda • Kenya’s best dining • Urban wildlife encounters • Amazing safaris and rafting trips starting right on the doorstep WEAKNESSES • Crime (the city is often referred to as Nairobbery by the locals) • Political demonstrations that sometimes spill over into violence • Poverty and its accompanying ills • Pretty ropey budget accommodation GOLD STAR For proximity to Africa’s natural wonders. Not just Nairobi National Park, on the outskirts of the city – a day’s drive will take you to the sun-drenched Swahili coast, the dramatic landscapes of the Rift Valley, the white-water rafting playground of the Tana River, or the migrating herds of the Masai Mara. STARRING ROLE IN… • Nairobi Affair (1988) • Nowhere in Africa (2003) • The Constant Gardener (2005) • Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen (Karen Blixen) • Present Moment by Marjorie Oludhe Magoye

IMPORT • Global cuisine • Musicians from across Africa • Bollywood blockbusters • Icy air-conditioning • Crowds of expats • Jeeps and Land Rovers • British bureaucracy EXPORT • World-champion athletes • Rich coffees and tasty teas • Exotic flora and fauna • Cut flowers • Checked red shukas (Maasai shawls) • Tusker Beer • Tribal masks, statues and weaponry SEE the graceful bungalow home of Karen Blixen, inspiration for her most famous memoir, Out of Africa. EAT nyama choma – Kenyan grilled meat – served at rustic beer halls, sitdown restaurants and five-star hotel barbecues. DRINK an ice-cold Tusker at a rooftop bar as the sun starts to melt into the savannah. DO comb the grasslands for lions and rhinos at Nairobi National Park. WATCH a sampling-platter of tribal dances and songs, performed by the resident artistes at Bomas of Kenya. BUY weird and wonderful African souvenirs at Nairobi’s craft markets and emporiums, from tribal masks to tyre-soled sandals. AFTER DARK join the steamy drinkin’ and dancin’ mayhem at the city’s myriad clubs and dancehalls.

URBAN TALE Nairobi and Lonely Planet have history. Thorn Tree, Lonely Planet’s travel forum, started life as a real, bark-and-branches acacia, growing in the café at the colonial-era Stanley Hotel. In the days before mobile phones and email, generations of travellers kept in touch using paper messages, stuck on to the thorns of this legendary shrub.

Taking a boat trip in peaceful Uhuru Park / NIGEL PAVITT | GETTY IMAGES

Naples // Italy Naples is Italy’s most underrated metropolis: a high-octane, plot-twisting opera of animated street life, art-jammed royal palaces and subterranean ruins with secrets to tell.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Naples DATE OF BIRTH: 474 BC; when Greeks from nearby Cumae founded Neapolis ADDRESS: Italy (map 4, O16) HEIGHT: 110m SIZE: 117 sq km (city), 1171 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 975,260 (city), 3.1 million (metro area) ANATOMY Facing a crescent-shaped bay, Italy’s largest port is watched over by a stillactive volcano, Mt Vesuvius. The hyperactive centro storico (historic centre) follows the grid of its ancient counterpart that lies below. Via Toledo, Naples’ main shopping street, leads north from Piazza Trieste e Trento, a square flanked by the city’s Palazzo Reale and Teatro San Carlo. East of them stands the hulking waterfront Castel Nuovo. Funiculars, buses and an art-themed metro service Naples, though the inner city’s relatively compact size and woeful traffic makes walking ideal.

Vesuvius broods over the port of Naples / SUSAN WRIGHT | ROME BASED PHOTOGRAPHER | HTTP://WWW.SUSANWRIGHTPHOTO.COM

PEOPLE Naples’ history is one of both occupation (as the local dialect flush with Arabic, Spanish, French and English words attests) and emigration (as the Neapolitan diaspora demonstrates). Neapolitans don’t earn as much as most other Italians, but that doesn’t stop most from eating out and owning the latest smart phone. The city is home to numerous ethnic communities hailing from Asia, North Africa and Eastern Europe. BEST TIME May is arguably the best month to visit, with warm weather and a string of festivals and events. June and September are also good bets, with summery days tailor-made for sightseeing. Most Neapolitans take their annual break in the searing heat of August, during which many restaurants and shops close for two to four weeks.

A bakery displays taralli, a Neopolitan street snack similar to bagels / SUSAN WRIGHT

A PERFECT DAY Waking up after a midday siesta to a short, sweet, strong espresso and a chat with the local barista, hopping on your Piaggio and heading down to Mergellina for the evening passeggiata (promenade), grabbing a pizza and folding it in quarters, eating it as you stroll along staring out to Capri, then late-night bar-hopping in fashionable Chiaia. STRENGTHS • Italy’s best pizza and coffee • Glorious art museums without the crowds • Cheaper prices than Rome, Florence and Venice • A Unesco-listed centro storico that is authentic and active • Sfogliatella – the staple dolce (sweet) of Naples, flaky and ricotta-filled • Metro stations designed by world-famous artists • Neapolitan baroque architecture • Ferries to Capri, Genoa, Palermo or Tunisia • Museo Archeologico Nazionale • Bespoke Neapolitan tailoring WEAKNESSES • The Camorra (Naples’ Mafia) • Neglected and crumbling historic treasures • Anarchic traffic • Street hustlers and petty criminals • Air pollution

Pizza Naples style: a portafoglio, or folded in quarters / SUSAN WRIGHT

GOLD STAR For street life – Neapolitans take to the piazze and the vicoli (backstreets) for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and for a lot of the time in between. STARRING ROLE IN… • Paisà (Paisan, 1946) • L’Oro di Napoli (The Gold of Naples, 1954) • Matrimonio all’italiana (Marriage Italian Style, 1964) • Vito e gli altri (Vito and the Others, 1991) • The Talented Mr Ripley (1999) • Gomorrah (2008) • Passione (2010) • E poi c’è Napoli (And Then There’s Naples, 2014) • The Neapolitan Novels series by Elena Ferrante • The Volcano Lover by Susan Sontag IMPORT

• Greeks, Romans, Normans, Saracens, Angevins, Napoleonic French and Bourbon Spanish • Virgil • Caravaggio • Rum babà • Poet Giacomo Leopardi • Diego Armando Maradona EXPORT • Actress Sophia Loren • Composer Domenico Scarlatti • Totò • Pizza • Opera singer Enrico Caruso • Gragnano pasta • Actor Bud Spencer • The literary fairy tale – Giambattista Basile’s Lo cunto de li cunti, published in Neapolitan dialect in 1634, was the first collection of fairy tales in Europe • Actor/director Massimo Troisi • Novelist Elena Ferrante • Casertana and Salernitana cheese, to Roman restaurants every morning SEE the dome-studded city, sweeping bay and slumbering Vesuvius from the Certosa di San Martino. EAT a margherita pizza at Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo and wonder why it can’t always be this good. DRINK locally made limoncello (lemon-based liqueur) on ice. DO a walking tour of the sacred Catacombe di San Gennaro. WATCH a drama unfold at the Teatro San Carlo, one of Europe’s most prestigious opera houses. BUY a handcrafted presepe (nativity scene) and mythological figures at La

Scarabattola. AFTER DARK join the bohemians for a spritz on Piazza Bellini.

URBAN TALE Every year Neapolitans cram into the Duomo to witness the blood of their patron saint San Gennaro miraculously liquefy. Although science has a ready explanation, many locals continue to believe that it’s a real miracle. The church has refused scientists’ requests to open the file and analyse the blood. When the blood liquefies the city breathes a sigh of relief – another year safe from disaster. A coincidence maybe, but when the miracle failed in 1944, Vesuvius erupted and when it failed again in 1980 an earthquake struck.

Opulent Teatro San Carlo is Italy’s biggest and oldest opera house / PHOTOGOLFER | SHUTTERSTOCK

Nara // Japan Crammed with Unesco World Heritage sites and temple treasures, this former capital of the country is a compact cultural gem.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Nara DATE OF BIRTH: AD 710; when Nara became the permanent capital of Japan, which lasted for around 75 years before Kyoto was made the capital ADDRESS: Japan (map 6, R3) HEIGHT: 68m SIZE: 277 sq km POPULATION: 360,439 ANATOMY Nara sits in the central west area of Honshu island less than an hour by train from Kyoto and Osaka. Due to its past history as the first capital of Japan, the city is full of ancient treasures, shrines, gardens and temples, including eight Unesco World Heritage sites. The city is laid out in an 8th-century Chinesestyle grid pattern of streets with the expansive Nara-kōen (park) dominating the eastern side (where most main attractions are located) to a backdrop of the mountain Wakakusa-yama. Nara is a compact city, which makes it easy to cover most of the major sights and attractions in one day and mostly all on foot. The city has two main train stations – JR Nara and Kintetsu Nara. The JR station is west of the city while the Kintetsu is in the middle of the town.

Blossom-filled Nara at twilight / SEAN PAVONE | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The population of Nara is fairly homogenous Japanese, with small numbers of Koreans (about 1200) and Chinese (about 800) living in the city. Tourism is the main industry, and the city has a high percentage of residents who commute to other cities for work. BEST TIME The ideal time to visit Nara is autumn (September/October) and spring (March/April), when the weather is at its best. Spring brings cherry blossom season, while the maple leaves come out in autumn and there are plenty of festivals in each season.

A chef prepares kaki-no-ha sushi with mackerel / JUNICHI MIYAZAKI | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Feeding deer in Nara-kōen then gazing up in awe at the Daibutsu (Great Buddha) at Todai-ji temple before seeking out Buddhist art at the Nara National Museum and heading to a buzzing izakaya (a bar serving snacks) to sample sake produced in the Nara region. STRENGTHS • Daibutsu (Great Buddha) • Unesco World Heritage sites: five Buddhist temples, Kasugsa Shinto shrine, the Heijō Palace and the Kasugayama Primeval Forest • Lantern Festival • Hōryū-ji • Buddhist art at Nara National Museum • Sake breweries • Tame deer in the park • Good selection of izakaya • Green spaces • Yamayaki festival (burning the grass on Wakakusa-yama) WEAKNESSES • Lack of nightlife • Crowds at popular attractions • Deer can get aggressive when looking for a feed

Buddha presides calmly over Todai-ji Temple / EURASIA/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the traditional Naramachi neighbourhood, not far from the Sarusawa pond. It’s the perfect spot to wander around and take a break from the temple queues and crowds. It’s filled with well-preserved traditional machiya (shophouses) and kura (storehouses), as well as plenty of great shops, cafes and eateries. STARRING ROLE IN… • Suzaku (1997) • The Mourning Forest (2007) IMPORT • Travel writer Pico Iyer EXPORT • Sake – the Nara region is its birthplace • Traditional Nara calligraphy brushes and ink

SEE the spectacular might of one of the world’s largest bronze statues, Daibutsu (Great Buddha) standing tall at over 16m high at Todai-ji temple. EAT the sushi speciality kaki-no-ha sushi: individual pieces of sushi are covered in persimmon leaves; you eat the sushi but leave the leaf. DRINK at an izakaya or one of the handful of bars offering sake produced in the Nara region. DO feed the some 1200 deer roaming Nara-kōen – you can buy shika-sembei (deer biscuits) from vendors in the park. WATCH thousands of stone lanterns lit up at Kasuga Taisha and traditional bugaku dances at the atmospheric Lantern Festival in February. BUY repurposed traditional clothing and homewares from Nipponichi, a linen merchant in business since 1716. AFTER DARK prop up at a tiny standing bar, such as Nara Izumi Yūsai, for sake tastings.

URBAN TALE Around the back of the famous Daibutsu (Great Buddha) there is a wooden column with a hole in the base. It’s believed that anyone who can squeeze themselves through the hole will achieve enlightenment. The hole is the same size as the nostrils of the giant Buddha.

Shinto stone lanterns line the path through Nara-kōen to Kasuga shrine / ANDREAS ALTENBURGER | 500PX

Nashville // USA Nashville: it’s more than a little bit country, and a little bit rock and roll. This up-and-coming, culturally dynamic city has a surprising sophistication that lures dreamers and doers from around the globe.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Nashville NICKNAME: Music City; the Athens of the South; Nashvegas DATE OF BIRTH: 1779; founded on Christmas Day by pioneer settlers ADDRESS: USA (map 2, N8) HEIGHT: 168m SIZE: 1287 sq km POPULATION: 668,000 ANATOMY Nashville rests in Middle Tennessee’s Central Basin; the basin’s principal river, the Cumberland, scours a serpentine course across this riparian city. Filigree streams and limestone shelves carve through the lush, rolling hills that encircle a system of historic pikes and railroad tracks which were constructed in the paths originally charted by bison and the Native American peoples who hunted them. Nashville is a verdant urban delight, featuring 108 city parks that sprawl across some 12,000 acres. Economic growth and development has seen countless cranes pop up in the downtown skyline, but its most famous structure is the postmodern AT&T skyscraper, known locally as the ‘Batman building’ for its dual antennae and dark glass that are reminiscent of the superhero’s mask.

Lower Broadway is the place to go for country music / NINA DIETZEL | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE With a cultural life that revolves around the city’s many universities, healthcare industry and music scene, Nashville is one of the most diverse small cities in the American South. From medical students and small-town singers looking for their big break, to top chefs and celeb entrepreneurs, the relatively low cost of living and large job market is a popular draw for people across the US, as well as many immigrants – the city’s foreign-born population more than tripled from 1990 to 2000 with large immigrant groups from Mexico, Kurdistan, Vietnam, Laos and Somalia. BEST TIME All four seasons are felt with distinction in Nashville – from light snow in the winter to scorching midday heat and humidity in the summer; none last too long and are generally quite temperate. Great events such as concerts, festivals and parades take place year-round.

Metro Riverfront Park and the AT&T building on the banks of the Cumberland / RICHARD CUMMINS/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Going for brunch at The Southern or Acme Feed and Seed, then walking it off along 5th Ave with stops at the Hatch Show Print and the Country Music Hall of Fame before commencing day drinks along Lower Broadway in the famed honky-tonks, then finally departing to Printer’s Alley for some blues or burlesque when you tire of the country music twang. STRENGTHS • Ryman Auditorium • Hot chicken (local-style spicy fried chicken) • Country Music Hall of Fame • Cheekwood Botanical Garden • Printer’s Alley • 5th Ave of the Arts • The Hermitage • Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge • Centennial Park • Meat and three restaurants • East Nashville dive bars • Pedal taverns (mobile bars – kitschy fun for tourists) WEAKNESSES • Limited public transportation • Overwhelming number of bachelorette parties • Pedal taverns (a rowdy, traffic-slowing pain for locals) GOLD STAR For great live music – anytime of the day, seven days a week. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Coal Miner’s Daughter (1980) • Starman (1984) • Ernest Goes to Camp (1987)

• The Thing Called Love (1993) • Gummo (1997) • The Matrix (1999) • The Green Mile (1999) • Road Trip (2000) • Walk the Line (2005) • Stoker (2013) IMPORT • Taylor Swift • Oktoberfest • Jack White • The Parthenon EXPORT • Miley Cyrus • Bob Dylan’s Blonde on Blonde • Goo Goo Clusters • ‘Rhinestone Cowboy’ • Bettie Page • Hank Williams III SEE a full-scale replica of the Parthenon, which functions as an art museum, in Centennial Park. EAT Nashville hot chicken at Prince’s, the original purveyor of the city’s famous fiery fowl. DRINK Nashville’s favourite boozy milkshake, the Bushwacker, or sample seasonal craft ales at one of the city’s many breweries. DO bask in the bright neon lights while boot-scootin’ in the honky-tonks of lower Broadway. WATCH musical acts of all genres at the ‘Mother Church’, the Ryman Auditorium – it’s also the site of the original Grand Ole Opry.

BUY one-of-a-kind artisanal wares and hip threads from the boutiques in the neighbourhood of 12 South. AFTER DARK storm East Nashville’s bar scene to sip everything from craft cocktails to cheap cans of PBR lager.

URBAN TALE A stroll to the middle of the John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge offers a photogenic view of Nashville’s humble yet rapidly growing skyline. The pedestrian- and cyclists-only truss bridge is named after Nashville native John Seigenthaler, a noted journalist and champion of civil rights and the First Amendment, who prevented a suicidal man from jumping off the bridge during his days as a young newspaper reporter for The Tennesean in the 1950s.

A country and western band perform at Legends Corner bar on Broadway / RICHARD TAYLOR | 4CORNERS

New Orleans // USA The most European city in America, New Orleans seduces with soulful jazz wafting out of saloon doors, people leaning over wrought-iron balconies on sultry summer nights and masked party-goers turning up the heat at Carnival.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: New Orleans NICKNAME: The Big Easy; Crescent City DATE OF BIRTH: 1718; when Sieur de Bienville founded Nouvelle Orléans ADDRESS: USA (map 2, M11) HEIGHT: 2m SIZE: 468 sq km (city), 9727 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 389,600 (city), 1.3 million (metro area) ANATOMY New Orleans lies in reclaimed swampland sandwiched between the Mississippi River to the south and Lake Pontchartrain to the north. The heart of the original city is the historic French Quarter (the Vieux Carré). Southwest of here is the Central Business District (CBD). The arty Warehouse District and bohemian Lower Garden District are upriver (paradoxically this is south) of the French Quarter. Adjacent to the Lower Garden District are the elegant manors of the Garden District. Faubourg Marigny to the east is known for its music scene, while Faubourg Tremé to the north is steeped in African-American history and culture. Catch a local bus or streetcar to get around town.

A jazz performance in Jackson Sq / BRUCE YUANYUE BI | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Well over half (nearly 60%) of New Orleans’ population is black. Whites make up 31% while Latinos number around 6% and Asians 3%. Thanks to its French and Spanish heritage, the population is predominantly Roman Catholic. About 6% of residents are foreign born, with large groups from Honduras and Vietnam. The city has slowly regained its population after being bashed by Hurricane Katrina in 2005, and it’s almost back to what it was before the disaster. Life in the Big Easy is for enjoying and service can occasionally be slow. But New Orleanians don’t worry about that – they know that having a good time is more important than having a quick time! BEST TIME Mid-March to late May is the sweet spot. Although you may have to endure some extremely hot days, in general the weather is pleasant for shorts and shirt sleeves. Plus, April is the beginning of music-festival season!

A streetcar trundles along St Charles Ave / KRIS DAVIDSON | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Starting the day with coffee and flaky goodness at Croissant D’Or before wandering around the French Quarter, relaxing in Jackson Sq, swirling a happy hour cocktail at Tonique, and then squishing in for a brassy jazz show at storied Preservation Hall. STRENGTHS • Jazz & Heritage Festival • Mardi Gras • Gay and lesbian scene • The beautiful Garden District • Po’boy sandwiches • Audubon Zoo • Riverboat calliope music • Buskers in Jackson Sq • St Charles Ave streetcar • The balconies and courtyards of Royal St

• St Louis Cemetery No 1 • Creole restaurants of Royal St and Bourbon St • The French Market • The French Quarter • City Park and its moss-draped oaks • National WWII Museum • Tranquil Bayou St John WEAKNESSES • Risks of flooding and sudden storms, Hurricane Katrina being the most notorious example • Uncomfortably hot and humid in summer

Impromptu session in the French Quarter / ANNE RIPPY | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For jazz – New Orleans is the birthplace of the genre and still the best place to see a live gig.

STARRING ROLE IN… • A Streetcar Named Desire (1951) • Easy Rider (1969) • Down by Law (1986) • The Big Easy (1987) • JFK (2001) • Treme (TV series 2010-2013) • A Confederacy of Dunces by John Kennedy Toole • The Moviegoer by Walker Percy IMPORT • Professor Longhair • Trent Reznor • Benjamin Henry Latrobe • Tennessee Williams • William Faulkner • King Oliver • Voodoo EXPORT • Louis Armstrong • Buddy Bolden • Truman Capote • Harry Connick Jr • Fats Domino • Randy Newman • Lee Harvey Oswald • Aaron Neville • Jelly Roll Morton • Anne Rice • The cocktail (allegedly invented in New Orleans) SEE the city from aboard a riverboat as it churns along the Mississippi River. EAT gumbo and fried chicken at local favourite Dooky Chase.

DRINK in the candlelit Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, purported to be an old pirate haunt. DO stroll through the Garden District past plantation-ready mansions, live oaks and clanging streetcars. WATCH the parades, floats, semi-naked revellers and dazzling debauchery of Mardi Gras. BUY local tunes from the Louisiana Music Factory, which also has live music on Saturday. AFTER DARK see who’s thumping at Tipitina’s, the legendary Uptown nightclub that has hosted some of the city’s most memorable shows over the decades.

URBAN TALE Shotgun houses can be found all over the city and are popular for their high ceilings and Victorian styling. They are called ‘shotgun’ not because of the speed of their construction, as you might think, but because of their shape. With each room back to back and the whole house one room wide, they were specifically designed in the 19th century so as to allow a bullet to pass through the house without stopping. There are also double-shotguns (duplexes with a separately owned mirror-image) and even camel-back shotguns, with a 2nd floor above the back of the house.

The city overlooks the Mississippi River

New York // USA Not much about New York City is subtle – it’s a dense, pulsating behemoth of iconic architecture, world-class art, fashion and entertainment, snarling traffic and a rich and radical history of immigration that endures today.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: New York City NICKNAME: The Big Apple; Gotham, Capital of the World DATE OF BIRTH: 1609; when Dutch West India Company employee Henry Hudson arrived ADDRESS: USA (map 2, R6) HEIGHT: 96m SIZE: 790 sq km (city), 34,490 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 8.5 million (city), 20 million (metro area) ANATOMY The city of New York is densely packed onto the islands of New York Harbor. Manhattan Island is the administrative and financial centre of the city and is home to Central Park, Times Square and most of the city’s skyscrapers. The Bronx, home to Yankee Stadium and the Bronx Zoo, is to the north of Manhattan. Long Island has Brooklyn, including Coney Island, at its western tip, with the ethnically diverse Queens to the northeast. More suburban Staten Island is connected to Brooklyn by bridge and to Manhattan by the Staten Island Ferry. Within the five boroughs are hundreds of distinct neighbourhoods with their own personalities. Transport is a mixture of subway, buses, honking cabs and ferries all crammed into roads, tunnels and bridges.

Iconic Empire State Building / H GO | 500PX

PEOPLE New York is a city for the young; nearly two million New Yorkers aren’t yet 18 and the median age of its residents is 35.8. The USA’s most populous city is one of the world’s great multicultural hubs, with over 200 languages spoken on its streets. More than 2.4 million Hispanics call New York home and its black non-Hispanic population is more than double that of any other city in the country. Over 1.1 million New Yorkers identify as Jewish and the city is home to circa 13% of the nation’s Jewish denizens. BEST TIME Summers can be scorching hot; winters cold and not without their blizzards. The northern hemisphere spring or autumn (fall) are the best times to explore.

Famous Katz’s Deli in the Lower East Side, where Harry met Sally / GARY LATHAM | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Crossing New York Harbor on the dirty-orange Staten Island Ferry to take in the views of the Statue of Liberty, Ellis Island, and Lower Manhattan, then walking the High Line, an elevated public park on a disused railway line, and kicking off the evening with a dirty martini at Bar SixtyFive at Rainbow Room, 65 floors above Midtown. STRENGTHS • Central Park • Metropolitan Museum of Art • The High Line • Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) • Free Staten Island Ferry • US Open tennis tournament • New York City Marathon • Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade • Rockefeller Center Christmas tree lighting • National September 11 Memorial & Museum • Brownstones and cultural diversity in hip Brooklyn • Greenwich Village • Broadway theatres • Multicultural eats and under-the-radar museums in Queens WEAKNESSES • Rats • Interminable subway works • The relentless obsession with the next ‘big thing’ • Bitter winters, muggy summers

The aerial tramway to Roosevelt Island from the Upper East Side / SIVAN ASKAYO | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For Manhattan. No other island comes close to offering the same diversity of people, ideas and experiences. Whatever floats your boat, expect to find it on these pumping, cinematic streets. STARRING ROLE IN… • Midnight Cowboy (1969) • Taxi Driver (1976) • Saturday Night Fever (1977) • New York, New York (1977) • Manhattan (1979) • Desperately Seeking Susan (1985) • Basketball Diaries (1995) • Underworld by Don DeLillo • Breakfast at Tiffany’s by Truman Capote • The Catcher in the Rye by JD Salinger

• The Great Gatsby by F Scott Fitzgerald IMPORT • The Statue of Liberty • Millions of émigrés • Truman Capote • John Lennon and Yoko Ono • Dorothy Parker • Andy Warhol • Tom Wolfe • Madonna • Australian-style coffee shops EXPORT • Irving Berlin • Miles Davis • Hip-hop music and culture • Thelonious Monk • Rap band Run-DMC • Broadway musicals • Sonic Youth • Martin Scorsese • Seinfeld • The Velvet Underground • Sex & the City • Woody Allen • Amy Schumer SEE the skyline (including the Empire State Building) from skyscraping Top of the Rock at Rockefeller Center. EAT artisanal produce at seasonal Williamsburg Smorgasburg in Brooklyn. DRINK historic punches and pop-inns at award-winning bar Dead Rabbit. DO visit the blockbuster Metropolitan Museum of Art or the less-crowded

Frick Collection. WATCH a brand-new American play at talent-scouting Playwrights Horizons. BUY quirk at the gallery stores at the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) or inthe-know fashion on the streets of Nolita. AFTER DARK rock on at a cult-status live music venue on the Lower East Side or across the river in Brooklyn.

URBAN TALE While sassiness is common, locals are much friendlier than the toughtalking Hollywood stereotype would have you believe. Lost-looking outof-towners are commonly offered directions from hawk-eyed locals. New York is also much safer than many people imagine; in early 2016 the city’s crime rate was at its lowest in recorded history.

The High Line, a green and peaceful elevated strip / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Nicosia // Cyprus Bound by mighty Venetian walls, the capital of Cyprus has a split personality – divided into Greek and Turkish enclaves by the war of ’74 – but the backstreets on both sides of the Green Line are studded with Ottoman, Byzantine and Frankish treasures.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Nicosia/Lefkosia (Greek)/Lefkoşa (Turkish) DATE OF BIRTH: 2500 BC, when Bronze Age tribes established a permanent settlement on the Mesaoria Plain ADDRESS: Cyprus (map 4, Y20) HEIGHT: 220m SIZE: 111 sq km POPULATION: 310,360 ANATOMY The two sides of the Cypriot capital – Greek Lekfosia and Turkish Lefkoşa – are still widely known by their British-era name of Nicosia. The two meet in the medieval walled city, but modern suburbs extend for miles outside the Venetian walls. In the south, swanky Ledras St runs from Eleftherias Sq up to the demilitarised Green Line, but the most interesting part of the old city lies just west, in the tangled lanes surrounding the Archbishop’s palace and the Makarios Cultural Foundation. North of the divide, the towering bulk of the Selimiye Mosque (formerly the Church of Agios Sofia) is the city’s greatest medieval treasure. Get around on foot in the old city, or by taxi and bus in the suburbs; crossing the Green Line is easy at official crossing points.

Looking across Nicosia from the Greek to the Turkish side / KLEMEN MISIC | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The southern part of the city is Greek Cypriot to its core, and its population is overwhelmingly Greek-speaking and Greek Orthodox, though there are sizeable communities of British expats and migrant workers from Asia. The north is home to a mix of Turkish Cypriots and settlers from Anatolia, brought in by the Turkish government after partition; Turkish is the lingua franca and Islam the dominant religion. In the middle of the sandwich is a force of United Nations peacekeepers, drawn from across the globe. BEST TIME Nicosia bakes under cloudless skies in the nothern summer. Visit in the spring or autumn for less stupefying temperatures, perfect for exploring the old city on foot.

Büyük Han is a rare surviving example of a medieval caravanserai / AGE FOTOSTOCK | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Waking early to wander the old city, before morning prayers at Ayios Ioannis church and gazing in awe at the medieval treasures of the Makarios Cultural Foundation. Then over the line to North Nicosia, to admire the Ottomanmeets-Byzantine grandeur of the Selimiye Mosque, before another dose of history back in Greek Nicosia at the epic Cyprus Museum. STRENGTHS • History by the church-load • Awesome Ottoman relics • Magnificent museums • Those mighty Venetian walls • Few tourists outside of Laiki Yitonia and Ledras St • Arty goings-on in the backstreets WEAKNESSES

• Limited accommodation • The military presence • Streets that end at barricades • Lingering tensions between Greek and Turkish Cypriots GOLD STAR For 4500 years of history. Nicosia has been inhabited since at least the Bronze Age, and each era has its legacy – prehistoric votive offerings, Ancient Greek urns, Roman bronzes, Byzantine icons, Frankish churches, Ottoman mosques, hammans and caravanserais. STARRING ROLE IN… • Attila ’74 (1974) • Othello by William Shakespeare IMPORT • Colonial institutions • Ottoman architecture • The UN • Coffee culture • Petrol • Archaeologists • Asian maids and nannies EXPORT • Archbishop Makarios • Halloumi • Oranges • Roman-style sweet wines • Lace • UN referendums SEE room after room piled with stunning antiquities at the Cyprus Museum. EAT a lavish Cypriot meze, a tasting plate of traditional dishes served on both sides of the border, but with particular gusto in the Greek republic.

DRINK Turkish-style coffee – strong and sweet, with a settled layer of grounds – in the pavement cafes dotted around Plateia Faneromenis. DO cross the Green Line to leap back in time from the bustling, modern Greek city to the dusty, faded Turkish side. WATCH the whirling dervishes of the Mevlevi Order in full spin by the Selimiye Mosque. BUY some of the world’s sweetest oranges from the ‘Ochi’ farmers market held every Wednesday beside the Constanza Bastion. AFTER DARK enjoy the warm evening air with a drink while overlooking the Omeriye Mosque at Plateia Tyllirias.

URBAN TALE Cyprus has strong links to the mysterious Knights Templar, dating back to the time of the Third Crusade, when the island was sold to the order by England’s Richard I. Never noted for their people skills, the Templars’ hold over Cyprus started to crumble almost immediately after they imposed stringent taxes on the Cypriots to pay for the purchase of their own island! Facing a growing rebellion, the warrior monks retreated to the stronghold of Nicosia Castle, but the citizens of Nicosia stormed the fort on Easter Day and tore it down to its foundations to prevent the Templars from ever gaining another foothold in the city.

Ledra St is known for cafes and smart boutiques; it ends at the Green Line / KIRILL_MAKAROV | SHUTTERSTOCK

Nuuk // Greenland Nuuk is the perfect base for discovering Greenland and its Inuit culture – then head off into the mountains or onto the fjords for spectacular adventure tourism.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Nuuk DATE OF BIRTH: 1728; founded by the Norwegian missionary Hans Egede as the first all-year European colony and trading post in Greenland ADDRESS: Greenland (map 1, P5) HEIGHT: 5m SIZE: 690 sq km POPULATION: 16,800 ANATOMY Situated on the mouth of the Godthåbsfiord, Nuuk commands an impressive if spread-out fjord system and is backed by a splendid panorama of mountains, particularly Mt Sermitsiaq. The architecture is a mix of older homes of real Greenlandic charm and rows of spirit-crushing housing blocks. Explore the world’s northernmost capital city by boat and snowmobile.

Snow-covered Mosquito Valley in the heart of Old Nuuk, overlooked by Sermitsiaq (Saddle Mountain) / KELL B. LARSEN/BREDSIG | 500PX

PEOPLE This city’s population is 88% Greenlander (Inuit) and 12% Danish. The two thought systems are often almost diametrically opposed, but Greenlanders of Danish, Inuit and mixed origin share a bond of objective, philosophical realism, and they puzzle over incoming Danes and foreigners alike for their belief in clocks, appointments and deadlines. Greenlandic became the country’s official language in 2009. Words can be quite long and convey the meaning of an entire sentence. BEST TIME June to August are peak months when the weather is manageable and the midnight sun shines. September to March are prime for seeing the Northern Lights, though you’ll freeze your buns off starting in November. A PERFECT DAY Morning fishing on the fjords, then kaffemik (coffee and, usually, seven types of cakes or biscuits) with the entire community, sitting in blissful silence and leaving when you’ve had your second cup of coffee. Eating your day’s catch, then heading out for a night of live music and dancing at the pub.

STRENGTHS • Vibrant Inuit culture • Aurora borealis • Braedet Market (fresh fish and game sold on open-air tables) • World’s hardest golf course • Photogenic fjords • Traditional costumes worn on the first day of school • Snow, ice and water sports galore • Oldest rocks (3.8 billion years) ever discovered on earth • Midnight sun • Humpback whales in the harbour • Greenlandic modern art WEAKNESSES • Long-slab apartment blocks • Limited lodging choices • High cost of fruits and vegetables • Perlerorneq (‘the burden’ in Greenlandic) – depression during the long, dark winters GOLD STAR For the waterfront Greenland National Museum and its 15th-century, furcloaked female mummies. STARRING ROLE IN… • Smilla’s Sense of Snow (1977) • Nuuk (2004) • The Secret Life of Walter Mitty (2013) • Sumé: The Sound of a Revolution (2014) • Miss Smilla’s Feeling for Snow by Peter Høeg • Last Places by Lawrence Millman • Tales and Traditions of the Eskimo by Henry Rink • Eskimo Folk-tales collected by Knud Rasmussen • An African in Greenland by Tété-Michel Kpomassie IMPORT

• Anything (product or food) that can’t be made from Arctic flora or fauna • Vikings • Missionaries • Evangelical Lutheran beliefs and hymns • Music styles EXPORT • Fish, prawns and other seafood products • Inuit culture • Fur craft and clothing • Big-budget Arctic tourism • Santa Claus • Gold and other minerals • The Nuuk Declaration on Arctic nations and its role in protecting the Arctic environment • Nanook, the indie rock band SEE Kolonihavn – an 18th-century fishing village in the heart of Nuuk. EAT local dishes such as musk-ox, reindeer and fish soup seasoned with angelica and other Greenlandic herbs. DRINK beer brewed with Arctic glacier ice at one of the local breweries. DO explore ancient and modern Inuit art at the Katuaq Cultural Centre. WATCH wee villages, icebergs and humpback whales glide by on a boat trip into the backcountry. BUY a piece of black Nuummiit, the ‘Greenland opal’, found only in the Nuuk region. AFTER DARK drink up in Kristinemut, Greenland’s first pub, then party on into the evening alongside the live band.

URBAN TALE

An indefinable distance from Nuuk is Kongsgaarden, a world-famous workshop full of consumer goods that are given away on a seasonal basis, especially in late December. This behaviour brings unprecedented popularity to the manager, a certain Mr S Claus, who receives more mail than anyone else in the whole of Greenland. Alas, reindeer-sleigh services are notoriously unreliable, so Santa Claus can only be accessed through mail posted in the world’s biggest postbox, located outside the post office in Nuuk.

The Northern Lights put on their spectacular show / FRANK LOHMANN/FRANKLOHMANNCOM | 500PX

Oaxaca // Mexico Oaxaca is one of Mexico’s most captivating cities, a vibrant cultural capital where ancient indigenous cultures and modern artistic innovation intermingle in a charming colonial setting.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Oaxaca NICKNAME: La Verde Antequera DATE OF BIRTH: 1529; when the Spanish officially founded the city, although an indigenous settlement already existed here ADDRESS: Mexico (map 3, B4) HEIGHT: 1550m SIZE: 85 sq km Population: 260,000 ANATOMY Situated at a comfortable altitude at the juncture of three valleys, the city enjoys a sunny, stable climate. Oaxaca’s Spanish colonial heritage is visible in its gridlike street plan as well as its stunning stone buildings. Streets open out into airy plazas then disappear again into narrow cobbled lanes. Oaxaca’s heart and soul is the large, tree-shaded plaza known as the Zócalo, a meeting place for one and all. Most points of interest in the city are within walking distance of here and each other.

Monte Albán archaeological site perches on a mountain above Oaxaca / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Nearly all Oaxaca’s citizens are descended, wholly or partly, from the indigenous peoples who inhabited the region before the Spanish arrived. Most prominent are the Zapotecs, who include, for example, many of the artisans and market traders. The region’s indigenous peoples remain proud of their heritage; and many continue to observe pre-Hispanic traditions, from cooking and crafts to religious rituals and healing practices. BEST TIME Almost any time is good. April and May are the hottest months, and November to February the coolest, but none are extreme. The Guelaguetza folk-dance festival in July and Día de Muertos (2 November) are wonderfully festive times, bringing thousands of extra visitors, but accommodation prices can rise in these periods.

Oaxacan sweets for sale / JUSTIN FOULKES | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Wandering the markets, galleries, cafes and museums for the day, under the clear highland light that has inspired generations of artists, then winding down with a good dinner and a glass or two of Oaxaca’s signature liquor, mezcal. STRENGTHS • Superbly colourful, inventive crafts scene • Fascinating galleries, shops and markets • Indigenous culture • Fantastic cuisine, both traditional and innovative • Contemporary art • Colonial architecture • Lively cultural and entertainment scene • Benito Juárez • Lapiztola street-art collective • Craft villages, indigenous markets and pre-Hispanic ruins within easy reach WEAKNESSES • Traffic (outside the central pedestrianised area) • Social inequalities • Political unrest, which sometimes leads to blockades of highways, the airport or government buildings GOLD STAR For Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations – nowhere is the Mexican festival taken more seriously than in Oaxaca and the surrounding villages. In this fusion of pre-Hispanic and Catholic rituals, Oaxacans honour their dead by building special decorated altars in their homes and cemeteries, and taking their lost ones’ favourite foods to all-night vigils in graveyards (where a festive atmosphere often prevails, even with music and fireworks). STARRING ROLE IN… • Y tu Mamá También (And Your Mother Too; 2001)

• The Girl (2012) • Under the Volcano by Malcolm Lowry • Mornings in Mexico by DH Lawrence IMPORT • Handicraft collectors • Foodies • Bed & Breakfast • Baseball • International language students • Villagers looking for work EXPORT • Textiles, pottery, woodcarving and other artesanías (handicrafts) • Moles (nut-, chili- and spice-based sauces for meat) • Mezcal • Contemporary art • Drinking chocolate SEE the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the most splendid of Oaxaca’s many churches. EAT magical fusion fare at Casa Oaxaca restaurant – and spiced grasshoppers from a street stall! DRINK Oaxaca’s potent agave-based liquor, mezcal. DO take a Oaxacan cooking class with one of many expert chefs. WATCH exciting folk dancing at the colourful Guelaguetza festival. BUY Mexico’s best folk art from craft villages and markets. AFTER DARK hit Candela for some of the best live salsa you’ll ever experience.

URBAN TALE Benito Juárez (1806–72) is literally synonymous with the city, as it’s officially named Oaxaca de Juárez in his honour. A Zapotec village orphan, he found work in a Oaxaca bookbinding workshop whose owner helped him get an education. As president, he was forced into exile by the French invasion of 1862, but eventually fought his way back. Juárez’ main political achievements included reducing the power of the church and military and making primary education free and compulsory. Today countless Mexican streets, plazas and schools preserve his name and memory, and his sage maxim ‘Respect for the rights of others is peace’ is widely quoted.

The glittering gold interior of the Iglesia de Santo Domingo / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

Ohrid // Macedonia With a front-row seat on one of Europe’s oldest and deepest lakes, this small city of churches and cobbled lanes has one of the most enviable settings in the world, and a laid-back summertime vibe that enchants all who come to dip their toe in its waters.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Ohrid NICKNAME: The City of Light DATE OF BIRTH: the Bronze Age, but AD 879 was when it was finally given the name Ohrid by Bulgarian Slav rulers ADDRESS: Macedonia (map 4, R16) Height: 695m Size: 384 sq km POPULATION: 55,749 ANATOMY Petite Ohrid is neatly divided into two parts, with the new town clinging to the petticoats of Ohrid’s ancient core. The Old Town, a cluster of distinctive 19th-century townhouses and intricate cobbled lanes only just wide enough for cars, unfurls down a steep hill to settle at the foot of the lake of the same name – a glittering expanse of water with Ohrid’s shingle city beach. Most of the town is walkable; buses are confined to the new town and there’s no train station for miles.

The beautifully situated Church of Sveti Jovan / PHOTO BY IVAN VUKELIC | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE About 85% of Ohrid residents are Macedonian Orthodox Christians, with a smattering of Albanian Muslims and Turks thrown into the mix. BEST TIME Life revolves around the lake, meaning Ohrid is a summertime town that bursts into life from June to September and hibernates come winter. The liveliest time to visit is during its major summer arts festival (12 July to 20 August), but the event’s popularity means crowds, price hikes and hotel shortages. June and September are perfect.

Byzantine frescoes in the 11th-century Sveta Sofija cathedral / TRAVEL INK | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Church-hopping in time to the Sunday bell-ringing, then discovering the Narnia-like entrance to Lake Ohrid’s dreamy over-water boardwalk and following it to a secluded shingle beach backed by cliffs and lapped by thirstinducing clear waters. Stopping for a seafood feast at waterside Letna Bavča, before ascending to Ohrid’s clifftop poster boy, the Church of Sveti Jovan, to admire the church’s 13th-century frescoed interiors and gaze across the water to Albania, a view has changed little in hundreds of years. STRENGTHS • Lake views, and a multitude of stairs and ladders dipping into the water for impromptu swims • Welcoming boatmen to whisk you around the bay • Friendly locals who are happy to see you but don’t like to hassle • Deckchairs thoughtfully put out by enterprising local cafe–bars • Ohrid Summer Festival –Macedonian music, theatre and dance • Well-preserved Church of Sveti Jovan • Traditional Macedonian cuisine • Small, locally run guesthouses and rooms to rent • Proximity to Galičica National Park and important historic sites WEAKNESSES • Steep hills and confusing ladder streets • Car Samoil’s Fortress looks far more exciting from the outside than it is on the inside • Capillary-thin streets that make parking in the Old Town a horror

Mountain biking above Lake Ohrid / ILAN SHACHAM | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the town’s immensely fun street lights, which have been crafted in the mould of Ohrid’s 19th-century townhouses. STARRING ROLE IN… Remnants of Another Age is a translated poetry anthology by contemporary Macedonian poet Nikola Madzirov, whose powerful, award-winning work has been influenced by time spent in Ohrid. IMPORT • Christianity: this town graced the lake long before the saints came knocking in the 9th century and Byzantine churches became a symbol of Ohrid • The Gutenburg Press, which has been printing on handmade paper in Ohrid since the 16th century; the copy here is one of only two in the world EXPORT • Ohrid pearls – not genuine pearls, but simulants of the gem created using

the scales of a fish endemic to the lake • The Cyrillic alphabet, which Ohrid’s St Kliment, an early disciple of Byzantine St Cyril, helped create SEE the squat, twin Sveta Bogorodica Bolnička & Sveti Nikola Bolnički hospital churches, used as quarantine facilities during times of plague and heaving with frescoes. EAT fried plasnica – like whitebait but meatier – for a taste of the diminutive fish used to make Ohrid’s unique pearl simulant. DRINK a moody glass of vranac, Macedonia’s signature red wine. DO visit the Bay of Bones’ Museum on Water, south of Ohrid, where the remains of a prehistoric pile settlement have been reconstructed over the water. You can even dive down to see the original remains. WATCH a live concert at Ohrid’s Hellinistic amphitheatre or in the shadow of Sveti Sofija Cathedral during the town’s Summer Festival. BUY Ohrid pearls from one of only two families who guard the secrets of manufacturing the town’s unique simulant. AFTER DARK tune in to Ohrid’s alternative nightlife scene at the grungy back-alley Jazz Inn.

URBAN TALE Church-building in Ohrid climaxed during Byzantine rule, when the town’s skyline would have been a mosaic of church domes. Locals will tell you that during this period there were 365 churches and monasteries crowded into this small metropolis: one for every day of the year.

A moored boat at rest on the peaceful lake / MIRYANA SLIVENSKA / EYEEM | GETTY IMAGES

Oslo // Norway Against such a spectacular natural canvas, it’s easy to forget that Norway has a rich cultural legacy too. Oslo’s brilliant museums, head-turning architecture and cool cafes serve as a first-class reminder – and as a bonus, the great outdoors is on your doorstep.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Oslo NICKNAME: Tigerstaden (City of Tigers) DATE OF BIRTH: 1049; when King Harald Hardråde founded the city ADDRESS: Norway (map 4, M2) HEIGHT: 26m SIZE: 453 sq km POPULATION: 658,390 ANATOMY Sitting at the head of a fjord (not as spectacular as Norway’s west-coast marvels, but an island-dotted fjord nonetheless) and surrounded by water, hills and forest, Oslo has an enviable natural setting. The city centre’s main artery is Karl Johans gate, bookended by the central train station and the Royal Palace. Most central sights are walking distance from here. The Bygdøy Peninsula, overflowing with attractions, is a short ferry ride away. There’s a good network of buses, trams, metro (the T-bane) and ferries.

The striking Oslo Opera House / MATS ANDA | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Oslo is one of the fastest-growing metropolises in Europe. It’s rarely far from top spot in lists of wealthiest and most liveable cities, but alas, it’s also a chart-topper on the list of most expensive. The city’s rapid growth is attributed to high birth rates, migration from other parts of Norway, and international migration. Nearly 30% of Oslo’s residents are immigrants or born to immigrants – large and visible communities add their own colourful side to city life. The largest ethnic minorities are from South Asia, Eastern Europe and the Horn of Africa. BEST TIME July and August see long, lovely days drawing locals and visitors to hiking trails and summer festivals, but springtime is a treat, too, with the city shaking off its winter blanket and celebrating National Day (17 May) in patriotic style. December brings Christmas sparkle, while February and March are best for wintery pursuits.

Gustav Vigeland’s Monolith, at the Vigeland Sculpture Park / ANNA HENLY | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Combining cultural and natural pursuits by boarding the summertime hop-on, hop-off ‘mini cruise’, which delivers you from the landmark town hall (home of the Nobel Peace Prize ceremonies) to the supercool Opera House for a rooftop amble, and then around the fjord islands to the green, museum-dotted peninsula of Bygdøy. STRENGTHS • Oslo Opera House • Viking history • Forest trails • Vigeland sculptures • Edvard Munch artworks • Akershus Fortress • Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art • Scenic ferry rides • Holmenkollen Ski Jump • Ekebergparken Sculpture Park WEAKNESSES • Famously steep prices • Cold winters • Wet weather • An inferiority complex (due to being overshadowed by Copenhagen and Stockholm)

The modern office and residential buildings of the Barcode Project in redeveloped Bjørvika / JORG GREUEL | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For effortlessly combining stellar urban treats with near-immediate access to nature. There are over 240 sq km of woodland, 40 islands and 343 lakes within the city limits. STARRING ROLE IN… • Elling (2001) • Max Manus (2008) • Oslo, August 31st (2011) • Headhunters (2011) • Skam (Shame, TV series 2015–) • The Half Brother by Lars Saabye Christensen • The works of Karl Ove Knausgaard • Nordic noir by crime writer Jo Nesbø IMPORT

• Pizza • Coffee • Immigrants and multicultural cuisine EXPORT • Vikings • Nobel Peace Prizes • Henrik Ibsen plays • Edvard Munch artworks • Winter Olympians • Polar explorers and adventurers (Nansen, Amundsen, Thor Heyerdahl) • Music: from Edvard Grieg to a-ha to black metal • Snøhetta architectural designs SEE the city and surrounds from the sloping, marble-embellished roof of the head-turning Oslo Opera House, which was designed to resemble a glacier floating in the fjord. EAT an alfresco lunch of peel-and-eat shrimp from one of the local fishing boats, by the docks at the revitalised shipyard Aker Brygge. DRINK and browse at vintage-inspired Fuglen (The Bird), a stylish cafe-barboutique: by day it serves ace coffee, by night it’s all about the cocktails. DO join the locals in their fresh-air pursuits in Nordmarka forest, whatever the weather – the trails here act as a magnet for hikers, mountain bikers and cross-country skiers. WATCH the delighted faces of visitors to Vigeland Park, as they inspect the highly charged sculptures created by Gustav Vigeland. BUY something that perfectly marries form with function – and is locally crafted – at Norway Designs on Stortingsgata. AFTER DARK hang with the hipsters in the Grünerløkka district and stroll Thorvald Meyers gate for pit stops that range from retro diners to microbreweries.

URBAN TALE If the pale, agonised face of Edvard Munch’s The Scream wasn’t enough to turn the painting into an art icon, its absurd tendency to get stolen has done the rest. Twice, The Scream has been plucked from the walls of Oslo art museums. The first occasion was in 1994, from the National Gallery (a note left by the thieves said ‘Thanks for the poor security’). The second was in 2004. Both times, the artwork was eventually recovered.

A display at the Vikingskipshuset (Viking Ship Museum) / KEVEN OSBORNE/FOX FOTOS | GETTY IMAGES

Oxford // England Medieval colleges, Gothic libraries, enthralling histories, great pubs and river walks captivate in the world’s most famous university city.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Oxford NICKNAME: City of Dreaming Spires DATE OF BIRTH: 9th century, founded by Alfred the Great ADDRESS: England (map 4, G8) HEIGHT: 72m SIZE: 45 sq km POPULATION: 150,000 ANATOMY Britain’s most beautiful city has expanded around 35 colleges over the centuries without losing its sense of space or poise. Its first colleges were established in the 13th century. When its students are not at work in the University’s libraries and laboratories, or musing in college quadrangles and cloisters, they can row on the two rivers that flow through the city – the Isis (or Thames) and the Cherwell – or walk in its parks and meadows. To the north of the city centre are the affluent neighbourhoods of Jericho and Summertown. To the east lie Cowley and the industrial portion of the city. West leads visitors into the rural Cotswolds.

The graceful Radcliffe Camera and All Souls College / NIKADA | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The heated rivalry between town and gown – local residents and students – has cooled since the St Scholastica Day’s Riot in 1355 when 62 scholars were killed. Today, the 32,000 students co-exist with a large city population that is twice as ethnically diverse as Britain’s national average. BEST TIME Visitors in spring (April and May) and autumn (September and October) avoid the summer onslaught of sightseers and witness more of the daily rhythms of student life. Budding or falling leaves add to the romance of the city.

Magdalen College’s vaulted ceilings are in the English Gothic style / SCOTT D. HADDOW | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Breakfasting at a cafe in Jericho, then walking down Walton St to spend the morning exploring the art and antiquities in the Ashmolean Museum, the world’s oldest public museum. Then, after lunch, strolling around the Radcliffe Camera, diverting to check out the quads of a couple of colleges close by, such as Exeter or Hertford. If it’s a sunny summer day, heading down to the river to rent a punt for a couple of hours. If not, retiring to one of Oxford’s many excellent pubs, such as the Eagle and Child, where authors JRR Tolkien and CS Lewis once discussed Middle Earth. STRENGTHS • Medieval architecture • Libraries • The Pitt Rivers Museum • The Covered Market • G&D’s ice cream parlour on Little Clarendon St • Bookshops • Pubs • Port Meadow • River Cherwell • Transport links to London by road or rail • New bicycle-share scheme WEAKNESSES • Accommodation costs • Shortage of outstanding restaurants • City centre traffic • Bicycle theft GOLD STAR For maintaining age-old architecture in a modern city. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Shadowlands (1993) • Three Harry Potter movies (2001, 2002, 2005) • The Golden Compass (2007) • Brideshead Revisited by Evelyn Waugh • Inspector Morse series by Colin Dexter • Zuleika Dobson by Max Beerbohm • His Dark Materials trilogy by Philip Pullman IMPORT • Students from around the world • Car manufacturers EXPORT • British, Indian and Australian prime ministers • American presidents • Scientists including Tim Berners-Lee • Authors including Oscar Wilde • Poets including TS Eliot and Shelley • Philosophers including Thomas Hobbes • Artists including WIlliam Morris • Explorers including Sir Walter Raleigh and TE Lawrence • Rowers including Sir Matthew Pinsent • 50 Nobel Prize winners • Guitar bands, including Radiohead, Ride and Foals • Books • Minis (the car) SEE fascinating ethnographic artefacts at the Pitt Rivers Museum. EAT healthy organic food in the undercroft of St Mary’s church on Radcliffe Sq at the Vault & Garden cafe. DRINK a pint of beer in three north Oxford pubs: the Gardeners Arms, the Rose and Crown and the Old Bookbinders. DO visit the Bodleian Library, one of the oldest, largest and most majestic

libraries in Europe. WATCH open-air student theatre in a college garden, weather permitting. BUY Oxford University Press books from Blackwell’s bookshop. AFTER DARK take in a classical concert in the Sheldonian Theatre.

URBAN TALE Australian Prime Minister Bob Hawke is fondly remembered for many impressive achievements in his home country – not least founding Medicare, Australia’s public health system – but top of the list is his world record for downing a yard of ale (2.5 pints or 1.4L) in 12 seconds, which he did while a Rhodes Scholar at Oxford. The feat took place in the dining room of University College as a penalty for a minor infraction. But the Turf Tavern nearby on Turl St has become the focus of pilgrimages by awe-struck Antipodeans.

Punts awaiting punters on the River Cherwell / JON BOWER AT APEXPHOTOS | GETTY IMAGES

Panama City // Panama The world trade hub of Panama City is a vibrant metropolis and the gateway to tropical escapes.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Panama City NICKNAME: Panamá, the name of the former city, razed to the ground by the pirate Henry Morgan in 1671 DATE OF BIRTH: 1519; when Spanish governor Pedro Arias de Ávila founded it on the site of a fishing village ADDRESS: Panama (map 3, i8) HEIGHT: 2m SIZE: 275 sq km POPULATION: 881,000 ANATOMY Panama City stretches 20km along the Pacific coast, with the Bahía de Panamá to the south, the Panama Canal to the west, protected forest to the north and the stone ruins of Panamá Viejo (Old Panama, the city’s original site) to the east. You can trace the history and personality of the city by cycling from the historic walled district of Casco Viejo through downtown on the Cinta Costera, the coastal green belt. Panama City’s colourful diablos rojos (red devil buses) are being replaced by air-conditioned MetroBus buses and El Metro subway.

The skyline beyond the Bahía de Panamá / DREAMPICTURES | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Most of Panama City’s population is mestizo (of mixed Spanish and indigenous ancestry). There is also a sizeable Chinese community, indigenous ethnicities from all over the country and a considerable population of English-speaking West Indian descendants. BEST TIME The height of peak beach season, January brings the Panama Jazz Festival, which takes over theatres and open-air venues. Dry weather marks December through to mid-March. April to November is the low season with discounted hotels and occasional showers. A slew of public holidays in November means most Panamanians are on holiday. A PERFECT DAY Wandering the cobblestone streets of the old-town district of Casco Viejo, peering in the doorways of old churches to admire the altar displays and escape the midday sun, rambling on towards the bustling fish market with its

ceviche stands and toasting a vermillion sunset with city views at a lively rooftop bar. STRENGTHS • Rainforest reserves right outside the city • Human diversity in harmony • Chic clubs and underground bars • BioMuseo biodiversity museum • Tropical modern cuisine • The Panama Canal • Colonial architecture in the Casco WEAKNESSES • Aggressive drivers • Constant construction GOLD STAR For the Panama Canal, one of the seven wonders of the industrial world, which is just a short distance from the city. A marvel of engineering, its construction was considered as early as 1524 and its early-20th-century system of giant lock gates recently underwent a US$17-billion expansion to accommodate today’s monster container ships. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Tailor of Panama (2001) • Quantum of Solace (2008) • Hands of Stone (2016) • Empire of Blue Water by Stephen Talty • Confessions of an Economic Hitman by John Perkins IMPORT • Expat retirees • High-rolling entrepreneurs • American malls and manufactured goods • Panama hats – actually made in Ecuador • Sailors

• Container ships laden with everything from the four corners of the Earth EXPORT • Bananas • Shrimp • Sugar • Coffee • Molas (decorative panels for women’s blouses) • Ruben Blades, the king of salsa • Reggaeton – the hard-core Latin upstart was pioneered in Panama City • Sailors • Container ships laden with everything from the four corners of the Earth SEE a ship squeak through the giant locks of the Panama Canal. EAT tropical cuisine, particularly fresh seafood, with global influences. DRINK rum drinks or artisan beer with an eclectic crowd in Casco Viejo. DO hike in the rainforest, ferry to Pacific isles and pedal the city Causeway. WATCH the thunderous, booty-shaking Carnaval parade. BUY bargain jewellery and molas made by Guna Yala women. AFTER DARK hit one of Panama City’s pumping clubs in city finery and dance till you drop.

URBAN TALE It is said that when the Welsh pirate Henry Morgan sacked Panamá in 1671, the only object of value that was salvaged was the Altar de Oro (Golden Altar) in the Iglesia de San José. According to local tales, when word came of the pirate’s impending attack, a priest painted the altar black to disguise it. The priest told Morgan that the famous altar had been stolen by another pirate and even convinced Morgan to donate

handsomely for its replacement. Morgan is said to have told the priest, ‘I don’t know why, but I think you are more of a pirate than I am.’

Panama City’s diablos rojos are gorgeously decorated / CHRIS BOTT | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Paris // France Paris has it all: magnificent monuments, manicured parks, fêted cuisine, sublime museums, bountiful street markets and trend-setting haute couture – and like its well-groomed citizens, it always looks good, whatever the season.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Paris NICKNAME: City of Light DATE OF BIRTH: 52 BC; when Julius Caesar established Lutetia by the Seine ADDRESS: France (map 4, H10) HEIGHT: 75m SIZE: 105 sq km (city), 17,174 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 2.2 million (city), 12.4 million (metro area) ANATOMY Ringed by the busy blvd Périphérique, France’s capital city is made up of 20 arrondissements (districts). The Seine River flows through the city and around two inhabited islands, Île de la Cité (site of Notre Dame) and Île StLouis. The Eiffel Tower’s spire rises from the arty, intellectual Left Bank (south of the Seine), which also houses the Sorbonne University, the vibrant Latin Quarter and upmarket St-Germain. The Right Bank is home to the Arc de Triomphe, Champs-Élysées and the Louvre, as well as trendy shopping in Le Marais, nightlife in the Bastille district and Paris’ two opera houses. Overlooking the city to the north is the 130m-high Butte de Montmartre (Montmartre hill), the Moulin Rouge and Pigalle (the red-light district). Walk or take the wonderfully efficient metro.

A sightseeing cruise on the Seine takes in the Gothic splendour of Notre Dame / SAMOT | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Officially, 64% of Paris’ population is French, with 14% hailing from elsewhere. Just 20% live within the périphérique; 80% live in the surrounding banlieues (suburbs). BEST TIME Spring (especially April and May) and autumn (especially September and October) are ideal. Summer (June to August) is the main tourist season but many establishments close during August. Sights are quieter and prices lower during winter (November to February).

Preparing perfect croissants / GREENARTPHOTOGRAPHY | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Floating past landmarks like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and Notre Dame aboard a river cruise before exploring the quietly charming Île St-Louis, heading to Le Marais for some retail indulgence then lunch and a vin rouge (red wine) on picturesque Place des Vosges. STRENGTHS • Modern masterpieces such as the Louvre Pyramid and the Centre Pompidou • Musée du Louvre • Musée d’Orsay • La Basilique du Sacré-Cœur • Dazzling department stores such as Galeries Lafayette and Le Bon Marché • Shakespeare & Co bookshop • Haute couture • Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris • Cimetière du Père Lachaise • Château de Versailles • Cafe terraces • Quirky museums such as the Musée des Égouts de Paris (sewers) and Catacombes de Paris (catacombs) • Philosophers and intellectuals • Paris Plages (beaches on the banks of the Seine) • French Open • Art in the metro • Renowned food and wine WEAKNESSES • Congested traffic • Frequently high pollution levels • Underwhelming Eurostar terminal (until renovations wrap up by 2023) • Tiny, expensive hotel rooms • Regular strikes • August – much of Paris closes as Parisians decamp for summer holidays

Paris’ wide boulevards / S.BORISOV | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For its world-famous landmarks – so much of Paris is iconic. STARRING ROLE IN… • À Bout de Souffle (1959) • Last Tango in Paris (1972) • Subway (1985) • Le Fabuleux Destin d’Amélie Poulin (Amélie, 2001) • Before Sunset (2004) • Midnight in Paris (2011) • Les Misérables by Victor Hugo IMPORT

• Valentine’s Day visitors • James Joyce • Samuel Beckett • Henry Miller • Ernest Hemingway • Pablo Picasso • Man Ray • Salvador Dalí • Jim Morrison EXPORT • Existentialism • Jean-Paul Sartre • Marcel Proust • Serge Gainsbourg • Simone de Beauvoir • Johnny Halliday • Charles Baudelaire • François Voltaire • Molière • Édith Piaf • Claude Monet • Auguste Rodin • The Statue of Liberty SEE Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa at the palatial Louvre. EAT delectable patisseries at historic Ladurée on rue Royale, founded in 1862. DRINK a Bloody Mary in the bar where it was invented, Harry’s New York Bar, or at the reopened Bar Hemingway inside the incomparable Ritz. DO sunbathe by the Seine at Paris Plages – imported sand and pebble beaches complete with palm trees.

WATCH the Eiffel Tower sparkle on the hour from the terrace outside the Palais de Chaillot. BUY Hermès and Yves Saint Laurent on rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. AFTER DARK take to the water with world-class DJs at Concrete during all-weekend-long clubbing events on the Seine.

URBAN TALE The infamous phrase ‘let them eat cake’ is usually attributed to Marie Antoinette, who apparently suggested cake as a response to riots about bread shortages in 1789. The mob, seething with hunger and rage, stormed the Château de Versailles, forcing Marie Antoinette to flee down a secret passage. The story, as we know, ends badly for the lady. Whether or not she said ‘let them eat cake’, she and her husband Louis XVI had become sufficiently unpopular as to lose their role as monarchs and were summarily guillotined a few years later.

Cite Metro station has retained its original Art Nouveau sculpted entrance / LEMBI | SHUTTERSTOCK

Phnom Penh // Cambodia At times beautiful and beguiling, at times chaotic and charmless, Phnom Penh is a crossroads of Asia’s past and present, a city of extremes of poverty and excess, but one that never fails to captivate.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Phnom Penh NICKNAME: PP DATE OF BIRTH: 1430s; Angkor was abandoned and Phnom Penh was chosen as the site of the new Cambodian capital ADDRESS: Cambodia (map 6, K10) HEIGHT: 12m SIZE: 290 sq km POPULATION: 2 million ANATOMY Many of the city’s most popular restaurants and bars are located along Sisowath Quay, which hugs Tonlé Sap river. The major boulevards of Phnom Penh run north–south, including Samdech Sothearos Blvd near the riverfront, which passes the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and National Assembly building. Most buses, taxis and pick-ups arrive in the centre of town around Psar Thmei. The train station is just a couple of blocks northwest of here.

Buddhist monks pass by the Royal Palace / YADID LEVY/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE At first glance Phnom Penh appears to be a city full of shiny, happy people, but scratch the surface and you’ll hear stories of endless personal tragedy, of death and destruction, from which most older Cambodians have never had the chance to recover. The nation’s hellish years under the Khmer Rouge left a people profoundly shocked, suffering inside, stoical on the outside. However, for the younger generation, who make up the majority of the urban population, Phnom Penh is the pulse of the nation where opportunity beckons. BEST TIME The cool, dry season from November to February is a great time to be in the Cambodian capital as a refreshing breeze whips across the Mekong and the night temperatures drop to the low 20s Celsius. November is particularly recommended as there’s the chance to catch the boat races of Bon Om Tuk (Water Festival) and the surrounding countryside is flush with lush green rice at the end of the rains.

Fresh fruit and vegetables on display at a market / BEN PIPE/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Strolling along the dawn-lit riverfront to see the mass t’ai chi and aerobics sessions; taking in the dazzling treasures of the Silver Pagoda at the Royal Palace and the wondrous Khmer sculpture at the National Museum; shopping for treasures at Psar Tuol Tom Pong; and watching the riverfront action unfold, G&T in hand, at the Foreign Correspondents Club before embarking on a pub crawl in the Penh. STRENGTHS • The riverfront, lined with swaying palms and billowing flags • 5000 silver floor tiles at the Silver Pagoda • World’s most impressive collection of Khmer sculpture in the National Museum • Art Deco Psar Thmei, Phnom Penh’s central market • French colonial architecture • Good-cause restaurants • Sundowners at the Foreign Correspondents Club • Bar hopping the Bassac Lane bars • Pontoon Nightclub • Wats (temples) galore • Wandering monks in saffron robes carrying alms bowls • Massages by blind masseurs at Seeing Hands Massage • Chaul Chnam (Khmer New Year), a massive celebration • Bon Om Tuk (Water Festival) WEAKNESSES • Litter on the streets • Risk of bag snatching • Police fines for traffic violations • In-your-face poverty • Air pollution

The French colonial Art Deco architecture of the magnificent Psar Thmei / JOHN W BANAGAN | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the Tuol Sleng Museum, a savage reminder of Cambodia’s tragic past, and the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, where prisoners from Security Prison 21 were taken for execution: a grim experience, but essential for understanding just how far Cambodia has come in the intervening years. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Killing Fields (1985) • City of Ghosts (2002) • S21 The Khmer Rouge Killing Machine (2003) • Wish You Were Here (2012) • The Last Reel (2014) IMPORT • Beer Lao • Aid workers

• International films for the Phnom Penh International Film Festival EXPORT • High-street clothing • Locally-assembled international bicycles • Award-winning rice • Rubber SEE an impressive traditional shadow-puppet performance at Sovanna Phum Arts Association. EAT the closest thing to a Cambodian national dish, amoc (steamed fish wrapped in banana leaf with coconut, lemongrass and chilli) – or if you’re feeling brave, try eating crickets, duck foetus, durian, prahoc (fermented fish paste) or spiders from stalls in the markets. DRINK the very cheap and tasty Angkor beer, and make sure it’s on the rocks! DO jump on the back of a moto (small motorcycle) to explore the cityscape. WATCH the passing parade, including beggars, moto and cyclo (pedicab) drivers and occasionally the king, from the balcony of the sublimely relaxing Foreign Correspondents Club. BUY handicrafts and textiles from shops raising money for projects to assist disadvantaged Cambodians. AFTER DARK head on a pub crawl around Bassac Lane, St 51 (also known as Area 51 as it’s easy to disappear for hours), and the lively riverfront.

URBAN TALE Legend has it that the city of Phnom Penh was founded when an old woman named Penh found four images of the Buddha that had come to rest on the banks of the Mekong River. She housed them on a nearby hill,

and the town that grew up here came to be known as Phnom Penh (Hill of Penh).

Dancers performing with fans along the Mekong River / DENNIS DRENNER | GETTY IMAGES

Prague // Czech Republic With its fairy-tale cityscape, variegated cultural heritage and perfect pilsner, Prague continues to captivate.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Prague NICKNAME: Matička Praha (Little Mother Prague) DATE OF BIRTH: Slavs arrived around AD 600 but it was truly established by the building of Prague Castle in the 9th century ADDRESS: Czech Republic (map 4, O9) HEIGHT: 262m SIZE: 496 sq km POPULATION: 1.27 million ANATOMY Prague straddles the Vltava River, its two halves joined by the Charles Bridge, one of the world’s loveliest. The centre consists of five historical towns: Hradčany, the castle district, on a hill above the west bank; Malá Strana (Little Quarter), between the river and castle; Staré Mêsto, the Gothic ‘Old Town’ on the east bank; adjacent Josefov, the former Jewish ghetto; and Nové Mêsto (New Town – new in the 14th century, that is), to the south and east. This compact maze is best appreciated on foot, aided by Prague’s fine Soviet-era metro, tram and bus system.

Beautiful bridges over the Vltava River / SERGIYN | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE For a modern European city, the Czech capital is fairly homogeneous: Praguers are almost all Czech. Notable exceptions are the Slovak and Roma minorities, as well as significant numbers of German and American expatriates. Prague is the most populous city in the country, and the least devout: almost half of Praguers do not subscribe to any particular religion; Roman Catholics form the largest faith group (20%). Locals pay for the privilege of living in one of Europe’s best-preserved and most-visited cities – at least half their wages can go on rent, and many restaurants and bars are out of Praguers’ reach. They still drink enormous amounts of beer, and indulge decidedly highbrow cultural tastes (and dress up for the symphony). BEST TIME Prague’s plethora of cultural sights makes it an excellent all-weather destination. Sunny July and August are Prague’s peak season; for a fighting chance of walking over Charles Bridge without big crowds, go in autumn instead. Spring’s festivals of beer, food and music make excellent timing too.

Alternatively, wrap up warm for a December trip, when the Old Town is strung with fairy lights and nativity scenes are set up.

Time for a beer at Klášterní pivovar Strahov microbrewery / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Walking through Vrtbov Gardens and up Petřín Hill, refuelling on strudel and browsing for antique books in Staré Mêsto, then drinking beer and scoffing sausage at riverside Letenske sady, and deciding whether it’s to be an allnighter at avant-garde Akropolis, or a jazz jam at Little Glen’s. STRENGTHS • A thousand years of well-preserved European architecture • Pilsner, pilsner and more pilsner • Poignant, picturesque Josefov • Old Town Square • Bookish cafe culture • Futurist Metro stations • St Vitus Cathedral • Scenic cemeteries • The Havel/Pistek-designed uniforms of the castle guards • The morally instructive Astronomical Clock • Mucha Museum WEAKNESSES • Shuffling crowds of camcorder-wielding tourists • Seedy strip clubs • Grumpy service • Pickpockets • Tacky souvenir shops • Meter-meddling taxi drivers GOLD STAR For romance – despite the tourists, Prague’s riverside setting and architectural splendour cannot fail to pull the heart strings. STARRING ROLE IN… • Mission: Impossible (1996) • A Knight’s Tale (2001)

• Van Helsing (2004) • Casino Royale (2006) • The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera IMPORT • Soviet-era watches and fur hats • Mexican restaurants • British and Irish stag parties • Bavarian architecture • Veggie and vegan recipes EXPORT • Pilsner • Controversial artist David Černý • Writer Franz Kafka • Composer Anton Dvorák • Filmmaker Jan Švankmajer • Absinthe • Writer Milan Kundera • Writer Ivan Klima SEE gilt-set slabs of semiprecious stones in the Chapel of St Wenceslas in St Vitus Cathedral. EAT posh pork and dumplings at the Kolkovna in Staré Mêsto, a modern take on the traditional beer hall. DRINK light, dark or waywardly flavoured Czech lager, made on the premises at Nové Mêsto’s Pivovarský Dům. DO take a walking tour of Prague’s communist history, or pop into the Communism Museum. WATCH a show within golden-roofed Národní Divadlo, a monument to the Czech National Revival. BUY creepy handmade puppets of kings, witches and suspicious-looking cats

at Marionety Truhlář. AFTER DARK bar-crawl around legendary nightlife neighbourhood Vinohrady.

URBAN TALE Those who were involved in the Velvet Revolution of 1989 often tell a story about ‘the Japanese guy’. Student activists where having a hard time keeping under police radars and a quiet Japanese man presented them with a suitcase full of brand-new 2400-baud Taiwanese modems, which were used to coordinate demonstrations and circulate manifestos. No-one got his name or saw him again, although everyone agrees he existed.

The Dancing House, designed by Vlado Milunic and Frank O Gehry / VLADIMIR SAZONOV | SHUTTERSTOCK

Pyongyang // North Korea Monumental and monolithic, the North Korean capital is simultaneously one of the most disturbing and impressive cities on earth.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Pyongyang DATE OF BIRTH: AD 427; when the Goguryeo dynasty built its capital here ADDRESS: North Korea (map 6, P1) HEIGHT: 27m SIZE: 2113 sq km POPULATION: 2.8 million ANATOMY A showcase city to outdo all showcase cities, Pyongyang is clustered around the centrepiece of Kim Il Sung Sq, the enormous public space where military parades of fanatic precision take place under the shaded gaze of Communist emperor Kim Jong-un, the grandson of Kim Il Sung, who founded the country. In front of the square flows the wide Taedong River, and on the opposite bank rises the Juche Tower, Pyongyang’s highest structure, a massive obelisk topped by a giant replica flame that lights up at night.

The Juche Tower stands proudly opposite Kim Il Sung Sq / GAVIN HELLIER/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Pyongyang is one of the most homogeneous cities on earth. Its small foreign population is largely billeted to the restricted diplomatic quarter, while the Chinese workers who run some of the city’s hotels are generally unable to leave the establishments they work at. For that reason alone Pyongyang inhabitants are fascinated by foreigners, and will often wave and smile, but will rarely dare speak to you. Only those deemed loyal to the regime are given permits to live in the capital, meaning that the people living here are among the most privileged in the country. BEST TIME Many visitors to Pyongyang time their visits to coincide with big national holidays, which often include big politicised parades that can sometimes be attended by foreigners. Popular ones include May Day (1 May), National Liberation Day (15 August) and Korean Workers Party Foundation Day (10 October).

Female soldiers pay their respects at the Grand Monument / ERIC LAFFORGUE | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Traipsing after your guides and being suitably impressed by the various monuments, towers, statues and buildings that glorify Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il, including the Triumphal Arch, the Juche Tower and the Mansudae Grand Monument, where you will be expected to pay floral tribute; then escaping them to find the real delights of Pyongyang: a gentle stroll on relaxed Moran Hill where you can get glimpses of the locals having picnics, playing music and idling away a sunny afternoon. STRENGTHS • The North Koreans, when you are lucky enough to spend time with them, are delightful • Lack of traffic pollution • No crime problems

• No advertising • Impressive and surreal monuments WEAKNESSES • Little contact with the locals at all (visitors only really speak to their North Korean guides) • No chance to explore independently • No nightlife beyond bars, pool and karaoke in your hotel • Restricted internet and mobile phone access

The spectacular synchronised performances of the Arirang (Mass Games) / CHRISTIAN ASLUND | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For monumental buildings: few cities can compete with Pyongyang’s exceptional ability to produce vast socialist-realist-meets-Asian architecture. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Game of Their Lives (2002)

• State of Mind (2004) • Comrade Kim Goes Flying (2012) IMPORT • Aid workers • UN food relief • Chinese tourists on nostalgia tours EXPORT • Plutonium • Refugees • Diplomatic endgame SEE the view from the top of the Juche Tower. EAT famous Pyongyang cold noodles, the beloved speciality of the city. DRINK Taedong beer, North Korea’s most popular lager. DO make an effort to learn the Korean for ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’, as it will mean the world to any North Korean you meet. WATCH films at the biennial Pyongyang Film Festival, possibly the world’s weirdest gathering of cinema enthusiasts. BUY plenty of propaganda pieces, including the exquisite hand-painted posters that are available at some souvenir shops. AFTER DARK enjoy an evening excursion to go bowling, see an opera or even a film.

URBAN TALE There are so many tall tales about Pyongyang, that it’s hard to narrow down to one. Perhaps one of the most enduring relates to the top secret and highly sensitive government area at the heart of the city, referred to

universally by foreigners who know the North Korean capital as ‘the Forbidden City’. It’s said that the revolving restaurant at the top of one of the towers at the Koryo Hotel gave too good a view of the area in question, and was closed down, as were the rest of the rooms in the hotel facing the Forbidden City.

Puhung metro station, decorated with patriotic mosaic murals / GEORGE PACHANTOURIS | GETTY IMAGES

Quebéc City // Canada Cradle and protector of French culture in North America and the heart that first beat the province’s blood, captivating, historic Québec City is Canada’s most European-flavoured destination.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Québec City DATE OF BIRTH: 1608; founded by Samuel de Champlain on the site of Stadacona, a First Nations settlement ADDRESS: Canada (map 2, S3) HEIGHT: 90m SIZE: 454 sq km (city), 3349 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 516,622 (city), 806,000 (metro area) ANATOMY Québec City is divided into the Haute Ville (Upper Town) – perched atop the cliffs of Cap Diamant (Cape Diamond) – and the Basse Ville (Lower Town), built along the banks of the St Lawrence River. Both the Upper and Lower towns have old and new sections. The city centre is surprisingly small, with nearly everything of interest packed into one compact, walkable district. The Citadelle, a fort and landmark, stands on the highest point of Cap Diamant. Just below, the historic cluster of cobbled streets and mansard-roofed houses enclosed within Québec City’s old stone walls form the appealing Vieux Québec (Old Town). While the historic centre’s picturesque confines are perfect for pedestrian exploration, the city is also served by a reasonably priced, efficient bus system.

Le Château Frontenac holds pride of place on the Québec skyline / COMPASSANDCAMERA | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Québec City’s population is primarily of European descent, with most residents tracing their ancestry back to France or the British Isles. There are dozens of other minority ethnicities, including Aboriginal, Asian, African and Latin American. Many residents are bilingual, though the vast majority (96%) speak French. In general, French Québécois tend to be down-to-earth and not big on ceremony or pretence. Many project an earthy quality of straightforwardness sometimes missing in their Anglophone counterparts. Francophones also have a reputation of being more fun-loving and raucous at get-togethers. BEST TIME Weather is generally glorious from May to mid-October, allowing visitors to get out and appreciate Québec City’s pedestrian-friendly parks and streets, along with summertime festivals such as the 11-day Festival d’Été.

Divinie Québecois tarte au sucre (sugar pie) / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Fuelling up at French-style boulangeries like Paillard or Le Croquembouche for a morning stroll or horse-drawn calèche (carriage) ride through the old Haute Ville; then descending to the lower town for an afternoon of shopping and museum-hopping followed by dinner on a Basse Ville patio and beers under the 18th-century stone vaulting at L’Oncle Antoine. STRENGTHS • Seductive Old World atmosphere • French cuisine, from bakeries to bistros to gourmet restaurants • Winter Carnival – the world’s largest • Le Château Frontenac, iconic 19th-century hotel • Marché du Vieux-Port waterfront cheese, fish and produce market • Rue St-Paul antiques district • Parc des Champs de Bataille (Battlefields Park), 18th-century battlefield converted to parkland • Excellent museums of French-Canadian history and culture • Fortifications of Québec National Historic Site • Historic churches (Holy Trinity and Notre Dame de Québec) • Place Royale, picturesque heart of the original 17th-century city • Promenade Samuel-de-Champlain recreation trail along St-Lawrence River • In-town skiing and skating at Battlefields Park • St-Lawrence River views and winter toboggan run on Terrasse Dufferin

A striking entrance to the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec / DAVID CHAPMAN | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • Limited direct flights; most airlines require a change of planes in Montréal or Toronto • Bitter cold during the winter months GOLD STAR For the Musée de la Civilisation – with its striking architecture and wellorganised permanent and temporary exhibits that cover both historical and contemporary concerns, this museum is not to be missed. STARRING ROLE IN… • Alfred Hitchcock’s I Confess (1953) • Tout ce que tu possèdes (All that You Possess, 2012) • Bury Your Dead, mystery novel by Louise Penny IMPORT

• Tourists • French culture • ‘New-economy’ high-tech enterprises EXPORT • Maple syrup • Celtic-tinged Québécois folk music • Fruit and vegetables • Cheeses, especially Oka and cheddar • Paper • Hydroelectricity SEE newcomers or the occasional big name at Les Voûtes de Napoléon, one of the best boîtes à chanson (informal singer-songwriter clubs). EAT provincial fare including pea soup, duck or trout followed by maplesugar pie at Aux Anciens Canadiens. DRINK craft beers at microbreweries like L’Inox and La Barberie. DO tweak snowman/mascot Bonhomme’s nose at the Winter Carnival (January/February). WATCH a classical concert at the Grand Théâtre de Québec. BUY Inuit art from Galerie Brousseau et Brousseau. AFTER DARK chill out (literally) at North America’s first Ice Hotel, half an hour from central Québec City.

URBAN TALE When explorer Jacques Cartier left Stadacona (a village predating Québec City on the same site) he took with him basketfuls of iron pyrite (fool’s gold) and quartz crystals, thinking they might be valuable; hence the popular expression ‘voilà un diamant de Canada’ (there’s a

Canadian diamond), meaning ‘something’s fake’.

Cobbled street in Vieux Québec and the funicular that links the Haute and Basse Villes / NINO H. PHOTOGRAPHY | GETTY IMAGES

Quito // Ecuador Tucked amid a high Andean valley and flanked by majestic mountains – when it comes to dramatic settings, relaxed and welcoming Quito has it made.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Quito DATE OF BIRTH: Pre-Columbian; early inhabitants of the area were the peaceful Quitu people, who gave their name to the city ADDRESS: Ecuador (map 3, I13) HEIGHT: 2879m SIZE: 372 sq km (city), 4217 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 2.6 million (city), 4.7 million (metro area) ANATOMY Quito can be divided into three segments: the centre (El Centro) is the site of the old town, with its whitewashed, red-tiled houses and colonial churches; north is the new town, with its major businesses, airline offices, embassies, shopping centres and banks; and the south consists mainly of working-class residential areas. The bus network runs north–south. The speedy and efficient El Trole (trolleybus) is Quito’s most comfortable and useful transportation system.

Magnificent Monasterio de San Francisco dominates the square of the same name / PHILIP LEE HARVEY | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE About 25% of the population is indigenous, and another 65% is mestizo. About 7% are white, and 3% are black, with a small number of people of Asian descent. Quechua and Spanish are spoken. While 95% of the population is Catholic, the indigenous population especially tends to blend this with traditional beliefs. BEST TIME Year round, Quito has mild days and cool nights, but the best time for visiting is during the drier months of June to September. In the first week of December the city is filled with music and outdoor stages during Fiestas del Quito, the city’s biggest bash with bullfights, parades and street dancing celebrating Quito’s founding by the Spanish.

The dazzling dome and altar of Monasterio de San Francisco / PHILIP LEE HARVEY | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Strolling along the old-town streets, where you’ll pass an interesting sight on almost every block, then stopping at Dulceria Colonial, a postage-stampsized place, for a slice of cake and people watching on Plaza Grande, before emerging from the narrow colonial streets into the openness of Plaza San Francisco, revealing one of the finest sights in Ecuador – a sweeping cobblestone plaza backed by the long whitewashed walls and twin bell towers of Ecuador’s oldest church, the Monasterio de San Francisco. STRENGTHS • Vibrant indigenous cultures • Spectacular mountain setting • World Cultural Heritage site status • Virgin of Quito on El Panecillo • Avenue of Volcanoes • Salsotecas (salsa nightclubs) • Museo del Banco Central • Old infrastructure, including an airport and bus terminal, transformed into public parks • Masterpieces of Escuela Quiteña (‘the Quito School’ of painters and sculptors) • Casa del Alabado • High-altitude panoramic viewpoints • Proximity to outdoor adventure locales • Nightlife in the Mariscal WEAKNESSES • Altitude sickness • Pickpockets around Plaza Foch • Exhaust fumes from traffic • Distance to airport • Two main bus terminals a long way from the centre

GOLD STAR For Capilla del Hombre and Museo Guayasamín – a complex of two sites dedicated to one of the country’s most prolific and extraordinary artists, Oswaldo Guayasamín. STARRING ROLE IN… • Between Marx and a Naked Woman (1996) • Ratas, Ratones, Rateros (1999) • Proof of Life (2000) • The Villagers by Jorge Icaza • Indecision by Benjamin Kunkel IMPORT • Fútbol (football) • Colonial architecture • Colonial religious art • Volunteer organisations • Citywide bike-sharing program • Microbreweries serving cerveza artisanal (artisanal beer) • Spanish-language students • Nightclub favourite reggaetón EXPORT • Oil • Bananas • Panama hats • Coffee • Cut flowers • Latin American–style socialism SEE marvellous views of the city as well as of the surrounding volcanoes from the summit of El Panecillo (‘The Little Bread Loaf’). EAT everything from locro yaguarlocro (potato and blood-sausage soup) and fritada (fried chunks of pork with hominy) to seafood, fruits and veggies in Quito’s Mercado Central.

DRINK the local firewater, aguardiente (sugar-cane alcohol), at the cosy peña La Taberna del Duende while listening to traditional música folklórica. DO take a few salsa dance lessons at Ritmo Tropical before hitting the dance floor of Ritmo Salvaje, one of Quito’s salsotecas. WATCH the spectacular Ballet Folklórico Nacional Jacchigua at Teatro Demetrio Agilera in the Casa de la Cultura. BUY superb Andean textiles at Quito’s biggest crafts market and sidewalk art show at the northern end of Parque El Ejido. AFTER DARK manoeuvre through the throngs on La Ronda, a narrow cobblestone street lined with 17th-century buildings housing restaurants and bars.

URBAN TALE There is a local legend that the tower of La Merced, an 18th-century church, is possessed by the devil. Supposedly the only person strong enough to resist the devil was a bell-ringer named Ceferino, and no-one has dared enter the tower, the highest in colonial Quito, since he died in 1810.

Quito comes alive at fiesta time with traditional dance and music / MARGIE POLITZER | GETTY IMAGES

Reykjavík // Iceland Colourful and tiny, Reykjavík surprises with its year-round exuberance, cultural savvy and otherworldly setting along the sparkling sea and backed by distant mountains.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Reykjavík DATE OF BIRTH: AD 874; according to Ari the Learned, Norwegian Viking Ingólfur Arnarson set up house next to a set of geothermal vents ADDRESS: Iceland (map 1, T5) HEIGHT: 18m SIZE: 275 sq km POPULATION: 209,500 ANATOMY The world’s northernmost capital lies on a small peninsula, framed by snowcapped Mt Esja and the windswept waters of the Atlantic. Young architects have filled the capital with intriguing modern buildings, which sit neatly juxtaposed against the coloured-roofed, tin-clad houses. The old town centre lies between a picturesque harbour and a large pond, Tjörnin, to the southwest. Locals bike, bus or walk their compact city, but favour 4WDs for the nearby wild countryside.

Viking hero Leifur Eiríksson strides before Hallgrímskirkja, the city’s iconic white-concrete church / DAVID NOTON | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Reykjavíkers usually know each other and are often distantly related. Ninety four percent descend from Scandinavian and Celtic settlers. The remaining 6% are either transplanted spouses or temporary workers, mainly from Poland (immigration is strictly controlled). Most Reykjavíkers are as fluent in English as they are in Icelandic. The national trait of self-reliance applies in the capital. BEST TIME The northern hemisphere summer is tops for action in Reykjavík, with hotel bookings full (reserve ahead!) and activities tours at a maximum. But even in winter the capital sees action, and Northern Lights visits are popular. A PERFECT DAY Luxuriating in the warm waters of the Luagardalur thermal pool, hoping to forget how late you stayed out the night before, then browsing the KolaportiÐ

flea market, grabbing the obligatory hot dog with remúladi (a mayonnaise sauce) and crispy-fried onion from Bæjarins Bestu before heading off to an opening of contemporary art at HafnarhúsiÐ. STRENGTHS • Long summer days • The RaÐhús (City Hall) • Surprisingly short flying times to New York, London or Oslo • Café and bar culture • Alternative attitude • Excellent fresh produce and innovative chefs • Hallgrímskirkja • Eco-consciousness • Harpa concert hall • Geothermal swimming pools • Unique moonscapes • The Settlement Exhibition Viking longhouse WEAKNESSES • Summer temperatures that barely leave the teens • High cost of living • Scarcity of lodging during peak seasons (summer and holidays) • Legless drunks on the weekend pub-crawl • Everyone hears what you got up to last weekend GOLD STAR For nights out: for a small, intimate city, it’s amazingly energetic and uninhibited, with cafes that morph into bars and clubs in the wee hours. STARRING ROLE IN… • 101 Reykjavík (2000) • Jar City (2006) • Heima (2007) • The Homecoming (BlóÐberg; 2015) • Gnarr: How I Became the Mayor of a Large City in Iceland and Changed the World by Jón Gnarr

• Devil’s Island by Einar Kárason IMPORT • Vikings • International hotel chains • Airbnb • Alcoa and server farms • Punk • French-trained chefs • Irish captives during Viking times • Driftwood from Siberia and South America; used to build traditional timber houses EXPORT • Björk • Sigur Rós • Of Monsters & Men • Fish (the animal, not the band) • Parliamentary democracy (the world’s first representative parliament existed here) • The national football team’s ‘Viking clap’ • Renewable energy expertise SEE as you sit by the harbour at midnight, the summer sun dip slightly below the horizon before it makes its way up again. EAT skyr – a yoghurt-like concoction most often paired with lush local berries – and other Icelandic specialities at excellent restaurants like Matur og Drykkur. DRINK local craft beers and vodka with the weekend djammiÐ (a boozy pub crawl) crowd around Laugavegur in the town centre. DO sip fresh roasted coffees and eat cake at ubiquitous local cafes when it’s too cold to horse-ride, hike or whale-watch. WATCH an indie band, preferably from the comfort of a geothermal pool,

during the Iceland Airwaves Festival in November. BUY Icelandic CDs at 12 Tónar or Lucky Records, and superb Icelandic design at KirsuberjatréÐ, Kraum and Kiosk. AFTER DARK discuss the sagas or the songs of Sigur Rós, at the perennial local hangout Kaffibarinn.

URBAN TALE Stories of hidden races of wee people have been handed down through generations, and although some Icelanders today will roll their eyes at the mention of elves, trolls and the like, many don’t doubt their existence, and gardens often feature small wooden álfhól (elf houses) ‘just in case’. HafnarfjörÐur, a suburb of Reykjavík, is believed to sit at the confluence of several strong ley lines and therefore be particularly rife with these mystical creatures. Construction of roads and homes is prohibited if a site is deemed to be populated by little folk.

Reykjavík blanketed in snow / RAGNAR TH. SIGURDSSON | GETTY IMAGES

Rīga // Latvia The Baltic States’ biggest and most cosmopolitan city, Rīga exudes both medieval charm and contemporary cool, combining these qualities seamlessly in a welcoming environment that attracts a steady flow of European tourists.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Rīga NICKNAME: The Paris of the Baltics; Paris of the East DATE OF BIRTH: AD 1201; when Bishop Albert of Livonia founded the Livonian Knights ADDRESS: Latvia (map 4, T4) HEIGHT: 6-10m SIZE: 307 sq km POPULATION: 697,000 ANATOMY Rīga lies slightly inland from the massive Bay of Rīga, on the massive Daugava River. On the eastern bank is Vecrīga (Old Rīga), the city’s historical heart, with a skyline dominated by three steeples: St Peter’s, Dome Cathedral and St Jacob’s. The river is crossed by three huge bridges, and joins Vecrīga to the city’s less developed left bank and to the nearby seaside resort of Jūrmala. You can get around by bus, minibus, tram or trolleybus.

The stately home of the National Opera and Ballet, where local lad Mikhail Baryshnikov got his start / SIRJ PO | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Just as Latvia is the most Russian of the Baltic States, Rīga is the most Russian of the Baltic capitals, with up to 45% of residents being ethnic Russians or Russian-speakers. Many of the Latvians resident in the city also speak fluent Russian, too, so unlike Tallinn or Vilnius the city has an extremely Russian feel. Most Latvians are either Lutheran or Catholic, while the Russian population is generally Russian Orthodox Christian. BEST TIME Latvian designers’ penchant for the colours red and yellow is evidence of one indisputable fact – that if you come to Rīga for aesthetic pleasure, then you should come in autumn. But if you want to hit beautiful sand beaches near the city and watch endless Caribbean-quality sunsets that border on white nights, then July is probably the best time to be here. Wild strawberries and blueberries, which you can collect yourself on every dune, come as a bonus.

Bitter but sweet, Rīga black balsam is a 90 proof herbal liqueur / DAVID LYONS | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Wandering the charming streets of Vecrīga, stumbling across ancient churches and colourful houses, before retiring to a bar to try Rīga balsam (dark-coloured, herb-flavoured liquor) mixed with hot black currant juice. STRENGTHS • Easy to negotiate • Superb Art Nouveau architecture • Stunning sunsets and very long days in summer • Beautiful beaches 20 minutes away • Friendly people • Great local beer • Wine bars and great coffee shops everywhere • Cheap food and inventive chefs • Quiet at night WEAKNESSES • Relatively cold climate • Ethnically divided politics GOLD STAR For the experience of drinking sundowners on the rooftop terrace of Albert Hotel on a warm summer night with its beautiful and never-ending Nordic sunsets. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Dogs of Rīga by Whining Mankell • The Merry Baker of Rīga by Boris Zemtzov IMPORT • Oil • Natural Gas • Machinery

EXPORT • Sprats (marinated baby herrings) • Rīga balsam • Great designers • Dairy products SEE the stunning Art Nouveau architectural creations that line the streets of Vecrīga. EAT everything infused with garlic (including dessert) at Kiploka Krogs. DRINK the local lethal tipple, Rīga black balsam, only if you dare… DO visit the Dome Cathedral, the largest in the Baltics. WATCH a production at the stunning National Opera House. BUY exquisite amber jewellery from one of many jewellery shops in Vecrīga AFTER DARK go on a pub crawl, visiting all bars between the grungy Chomsky and the classy Left Door Bar.

URBAN TALE It has often been claimed that Rīga is the home of the original Christmas tree, created by Martin Luther while he took a winter walk in the woods near the city. The truth is slightly different – the story has, in fact, two parts. The Latvians at the time were pagan and one of their rituals occurred at the winter solstice (known as Yule), when they burned a log in honour of the sun. This later developed into a ceremony in which an evergreen tree was placed outside the town hall, decorated by men in black hats and later burned. Martin Luther, generally considered to have been the man who introduced the tradition to Europe, probably came across this annual ritual during the Christmas period while on his travels to Rīga in the early 16th century. To this day there’s a magnificent Christmas tree in Vecrīga Sq every year.

A view through quaint side streets to Dome Cathedral / ROSSHELEN | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Rio de Janeiro // Brazil With beaches to suit every mood, lush mountainous surrounds and streets that seethe with sensuality, Rio is packed with natural and cultural riches.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Rio de Janeiro NICKNAME: Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvellous City) DATE OF BIRTH: 1567; the Portuguese set up the first settlement; Rio became the capital in 1763 ADDRESS: Brazil (map 1, Q19) HEIGHT: 61m SIZE: 1200 sq km (city), 4540 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 6.2 million (city), 12.3 million (metro area) ANATOMY Rio is a tale of two cities: the upper and middle classes reside in the Zona Sul, the lower class in the Zona Norte. Favelas (shantytowns) cover steep hillsides on both sides of town. Most industry is in the Zona Norte, as is most of the pollution. The ocean beaches are in the Zona Sul. Buses are an easy way to get around, but they’re often crowded and slowed by traffic. The excellent subway system is limited to points north of the middle-class neighbourhood of Botafogo.

Seen from the peak of Pão de Açúcar, Rio is undoubtedly a Cidade Maravilhosa / RAPHAEL KOERICH | 500PX

PEOPLE The racial composition of Rio’s population reflects its past: a mix of Africans, Europeans and Indians who have intermarried freely since colonial times. The Portuguese gave the country its religion and language, while Indian culture helped shape the legends, dance, music and other aspects of modern Brazilian culture. The influence of African culture is also prominent as the early slaves brought with them their religion, music and cuisine, all of which profoundly shaped Brazilian identity. Rio’s rich melting pot is also a product of many immigrants who began arriving in the late 19th century – Italians, Spaniards, Germans, Japanese, Russians and Lebanese among others. BEST TIME Rio enjoys a tropical climate. The southern hemisphere winter months are very mild and are the prime time to visit, but prices often skyrocket. Summer is hot and extremely humid, with abundant rainfall (especially in January and

February).

Rio’s Carnaval is the world’s biggest / CELSO PUPO | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Celebrating with Fluminense fans over a hard-won football match at a sidewalk café in Flamengo, then heading to Lapa and wandering among the bars and old music halls where the soul of samba lives, and where locals are always eager to show you a few steps. And, finally, dancing and laughing in the lively streets with fellow Friday night revellers. STRENGTHS • Ipanema Beach • The enormous cone-shaped Catedral Metropolitana • Bolo (cake) and thick cafezinho (little coffee) • Samba clubs in Lapa • Antique stores of Rua do Lavradio • Exciting futebol at Maracanã stadium • The statue Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)

• Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil, which often hosts some of the city’s best (and avant-garde–leaning) exhibits • Riding the bonde (tram) to the lovely hilltop neighbourhood of Santa Teresa • Rio’s weekend Feira Nordestina

Altinho (beach football) at Ipanema / MICHAEL HEFFERNAN | SHUTTERSTOCK

WEAKNESSES • Pollution • Visible poverty – street kids and favelas • Materialism • Theft and violence, though security has generally improved in the last few years GOLD STAR For music: the birthplace of bossa nova today hosts samba, jazz, half a dozen regional styles, hip-hop, reggae, funk, electronic music, Música Popular Brasileiro (MPB) and many fusions among them, such as samba-jazz, sambafunk, electro-samba and bossa-jazz.

STARRING ROLE IN… • Pixote (1981) • Central do Brasil (Central Station, 1998) • Cidade de Deus (City of God, 2002) • Motorcycle Diaries (2004) • The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho IMPORT • Soap operas • Tourists • Football • Multiculturalism • The Portuguese • Shopping malls • Beach volleyball EXPORT • Supermodels • Football stars • Samba • Carnaval • Fio dental (dental-floss bikinis) • Havaianas (rubber sandals) • Formula One world champions • ‘The Girl from Ipanema’ • Bossa nova • Capoeira (a combination of martial arts, dance, acrobatics and music) SEE the city unfold beneath the outstretched arms of the huge Cristo Redentor on Corcovado (‘hunchback’) mountain. EAT the best churrasco (traditional barbecued meat) in Rio at Porcão, with stunning views and all the juicy steak you can eat. DRINK cocktails and take in the ambient sounds (mixed by a changing crew of house and drum-and-bass hands) at the sleek Sitio Lounge.

DO take a voleibol (volleyball) class on Ipanema Beach and learn why it’s Rio’s second-most popular sport (after football, of course). WATCH Rio’s new breed of hip-hop (pronounced hippie-hoppie) aficionados at a hip-hop jam in Humaitá or Botafogo. BUY some vintage vinyl or pick up a CD at the open-air Feira de Música market in Centro. AFTER DARK check out a baile (literally a ‘dance’ or ‘ball’) and try on your best dance moves alongside 10,000 locals.

URBAN TALE Carioca was the name the Tupi Indians gave to the Portuguese settlers. It comes from ‘kara ‘i oca’, which means white house, in reference to the white masonry the newcomers used in their buildings. The Cariocas – as Rio’s inhabitants are called – thrive on dance, drink, the beach, sport and sun. They are spontaneous, friendly and prone to kicking footballs.

Joyful artwork Escadaria Selarón / MARTIJN MUREAU | 500PX

Rome // Italy Whether they’re romantics, art-lovers, gourmands or historians, when you tell people you’re going to Rome, they’ll sigh – even if they haven’t been there.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Rome NICKNAME: The Eternal City DATE OF BIRTH: 21 April 753 BC; Ancient Romans dated the city foundation from this date ADDRESS: Italy (map 4, N15) HEIGHT: 20m SIZE: 1,285 sq km POPULATION: 2.86 million ANATOMY Rome’s best-known geographical features are its seven hills: the Palatine, Capitoline, Aventine, Caelian, Esquiline, Viminal and Quirinal. Two other hills, the Gianicolo, which rises above Trastevere, and the Pincio, above Piazza del Popolo, were never part of the ancient city. Traversing the city, the river Tiber snakes through the centre as it flows to the sea at Ostia, some 30km away. Rome has myriad bus routes and a metro system based on two main lines (A and B) that cross the city in an X-shape. Work continues on a partially-opened line C but progress is slow as halts are called every time tunnellers run into underground ancient ruins.

The Forum and the Colosseum, two of ancient Rome’s great landmarks / SUSAN WRIGHT | ROME BASED PHOTOGRAPHER | HTTP://WWW.SUSANWRIGHTPHOTO.COM

PEOPLE Rome is becoming an increasingly cosmopolitan city. Foreigners from around 100 countries now account for 13% of the city population, numbering about 365,000. Many have settled in the area around Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, now sometimes referred to as Rome’s Chinatown. Most Romans consider themselves Catholic, but an increase in immigration has led to a growth in the city’s Muslim community. This is centred on Rome’s vast mosque in the north of the city, near the upmarket Parioli district. BEST TIME To catch Rome at its most alluring come in spring (April to June) or early autumn (September and October). It’s all warm sunshine and blue skies – and there are numerous festivals and outdoor events going on.

Auditorium Parco della Musica is Rome’s premier concert venue / NATTAKIT JEERAPATMAITREE | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Taking your morning espresso at Caffè Sant’Eustachio, exploring the centro storico (historic centre) and getting lost only to stumble upon the perfect trattoria and lose all sense of time over saltimbocca alla romana (jump-inthe-mouth veal) and a good wine, then crossing Piazza del Popolo to marvel at Caravaggio’s Crucifixion of St Peter in the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Popolo. STRENGTHS • History everywhere you look • Baroque architecture • Gelato • Gianicolo Hill for amazing views • Football – Roma or Lazio, you choose • The Pantheon • The Forum • The Sistine Chapel • Piazza Navona • Villa Borghese • Morning coffee on a piazza • Al dente pasta • Trastevere • Browsable boutiques in bohemian Monti • Crossing the Tiber on Ponte Sant’Angelo

A modern-day gladiator reads an inscription at the Spanish Steps / SUSAN WRIGHT

WEAKNESSES • Slow, overcrowded public transport • Rude shopkeepers and touts pushing ‘skip the line’ tours near the Vatican Museums • Lack of public toilets • Tame nightlife • Pavements blocked by double-parked cars • Tripe • Dreary modern high-rise buildings in the outer suburbs • Overflowing rubbish bins GOLD STAR For history – Rome knows that no-one’s coming here for the modern architecture, and so a lot of money gets spent on keeping the past alive for tourists. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Roma, città aperta (Rome, Open City, 1945) • Ladri di biciclette (Bicycle Thieves, 1948) • Roman Holiday (1953) • La Dolce Vita (1961) • Angels and Demons (2009) • La grande bellezza (The Great Beauty, 2013) IMPORT • Ancient Egyptian obelisks • Michelangelo • Caravaggio • Helmet laws for Vespa and motorcycle riders • Smart cars • John Keats • The current Pope • A taste for craft beer • The Swiss Guards EXPORT • Export • Rules and regulations • Pasta • Roads • Bread-and-circus politics • Conservation techniques • Roman numerals • Toga parties SEE overwhelming art collections at the Vatican Museums, including the sublime Sistine Chapel. EAT Rome’s best sliced pizza at Pizzarium. DRINK a glass of Frascati Superiore in an enoteca (wine bar). DO as the Romans do and take to the streets for the evening passeggiata

(stroll). WATCH the world go by from a perch on the Spanish Steps, overlooking the Piazza di Spagna and the Barcaccia (the ‘sinking boat’ fountain). BUY designer outfits from the flagship stores on Via dei Condotti. AFTER DARK hang out in Trastevere’s bars and piazzas.

URBAN TALE According to the legend of Romulus and Remus, the twin sons of Rhea Silvia (a Latin princess) and the war god Mars were raised by a she-wolf after being abandoned on the banks of the River Tiber. The myth says Romulus killed his brother while arguing about where to found a city, and then established Rome on the Palatine, making himself the first king. Later he disappeared, poetically taken up by the gods or, more prosaically, secretly murdered by senators.

An Italian classic, the Fiat 500, on the streets of Rome / SUSAN WRIGHT

Saint-Denis // Réunion Saint-Denis is Réunion’s cosmopolitan capital, with a chilled vibe and wicked café culture that is unparalleled in the Indian Ocean.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Saint-Denis DATE OF BIRTH: 1668; founded by the governor Regnault, who named the settlement after a ship that ran aground here ADDRESS: Réunion (map 1, CC19) HEIGHT: 12m SIZE: 423 sq km POPULATION: 145,000 ANATOMY The city centre, conveniently arranged in a grid pattern, is built on a coastal plain that drops gently north towards the sea. Life revolves around the vibrant seafront area, Le Barachois, with its cafés and bars, and ave de la Victoire, the main thoroughfare heading inland that leads to the grand Creole mansions along rue de Paris. Saint-Denis is relatively small and getting around the centre on foot is a breeze, but there is nevertheless a good and comprehensive city-bus service.

Antique coastal cannons protecting the harbour of Saint-Denis / ERIC PHAN-KIM | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The population of Saint-Denis is predominantly descended from 17th-century French settlers and successive waves of migrants from Madagascar, East Africa, India and Indochina who were either brought to the island as slaves, arrived as mutineers, or came to trade. The official language is French but Creole is widely spoken. Creoles (people of Afro-French ancestry) are the largest ethnic group, comprising around 40% of the population. The city is a veritable melting pot and over the years has supported an abundance of interracial marriages that led to the emergence of its unique Creole culture. Whatever their ethnicity, locals tend to share a strong sense of community and family values, which bind them together. Most would refer to themselves as Creole, not in the narrow sense of having Afro-French ancestry, but simply meaning one of ‘the people’. BEST TIME Saint-Denis experiences two distinct seasons: the hot, rainy summer from December to April and the cool, dry winter from late April to October. The

cyclone season is roughly December to March. Temperatures average 22°C during winter and 28°C in summer. The peak tourist seasons are during the French school holidays from late June to early September. From October through to the New Year holidays is also reasonably busy. The best times to visit are the shoulder seasons – April to June and September to November. A PERFECT DAY Wandering around rue Juliette Dodu, Saint-Denis’ heartbeat, admiring the city’s elegant Creole mansions, delving into the colourful market, filling up on delicious tropical fruits, then heading to the seafront to knock back a few evening tumblers of rum before sampling succulent French and Creole cuisine at a gourmet restaurant. STRENGTHS • Creole mansions • Pétanque (a bit like lawn bowls but played with heavy metal balls on a sandy pitch) • Cultural diversity • Bird-watching opportunities • The Hindu temple • The sound of Creole being spoken • Jurassic Park–like backdrop • The Préfecture • Bonbons piments (deep-fried balls of lentils and chilli) • Amazing ice cream WEAKNESSES • Cyclones • Some beaches are off-limits because of sharks • The lack of English-speaking people in the hotel industry • Flights to Réunion are expensive • The lack of boutique hotels GOLD STAR For food – thanks to the French passion for gastronomy, there’s a restaurant or café around virtually every corner.

STARRING ROLE IN… • Paul and Virginie by Bernardin de Saint-Pierre IMPORT • Whisky • Animal species • Ornamental plants • French-style B&Bs • Modern art (paintings by Picasso, Renoir, Gauguin etc) EXPORT • Rum • Vanilla tea • Coffee • Sugar SEE the impressive Creole mansions on rue de Paris, many of which feature elaborate verandas and intricate lambrequins (ornamental window and door borders). EAT a hearty rougail saucisses (sausages cooked in tomato sauce) in a traditional restaurant. DRINK an explosively fruity cocktail while enjoying the lagoon views at a beach bar in L’Hermitage-les-Bains. DO go heritage-hunting among the superb Creole buildings around rue de Paris. WATCH a Tamil fire-walking ceremony in Ste-Suzanne, when participants walk over red-hot embers as a sign of devotion. BUY some ultra-fragrant vanilla pods directly from the producer at the market. AFTER DARK rub shoulders with the locals in one of the popular discos in the heart of the city.

URBAN TALE St Expédit is one of Réunion’s most popular saints, though some scholars argue that he never even existed. They cite a box of religious relics that was shipped from Rome in a parcel bearing the word espedito (expedited). When the box arrived in Paris, the nuns mistakenly assumed that this was the saint’s name and christened their new chapel La Chapelle de St Expédit. In 1931, in thanks for her safe return to Réunion, a local woman erected a statue of the ‘saint’ in the Notre Dame de la Délivrance church in Saint-Denis. There are now more than 350 shrines in Réunion dedicated to St Expédit.

Notre Dame de la Délivrance, built in Tuscan Gothic style / GWENGOAT | GETTY IMAGES

Salvador da Bahia // Brazil Salvador da Bahia is known as the African soul of Brazil: here, the descendants of African slaves have preserved their cultural roots more than anywhere else in the New World. This beautiful city thrives with culinary, religious, musical, dance and martial-art traditions.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Salvador da Bahia NICKNAME: Bahia; Salvador; Black Rome DATE OF BIRTH: 1549; when Tomé de Souza landed on Praia Porto da Barra under Portuguese royal orders to found Brazil’s first capital ADDRESS: Brazil (map 1, R18) HEIGHT: 19m SIZE: 324 sq km POPULATION: 2.68 million ANATOMY Salvador can be difficult to navigate as there are many one-way, no left-turn streets. The centre is on the bay side of the peninsula and is divided by a steep bluff into two parts: Cidade Alta (Upper City) and Cidade Baixa (Lower City). The heart of historic Cidade Alta is the Pelourinho (or Pelô), which is also the heart of Salvador’s tourism and nightlife. Cidade Baixa contains the Comércio (the city’s commercial and financial centre), the ferry terminals and port. Linking Cidade Alta and Cidade Baixa are the historic Elevador Lacerda (four lifts that travel a set of 72m vertical cement shafts in about 30 seconds, shuttling thousands of passengers daily) and the Plano Inclinado Gonçalves (funicular railway). You can easily catch buses or taxis around town.

A colourful streetscape in Salvador da Bahia / EMILIANO | 500PX

PEOPLE Bahia is Brazil’s most Africanised state, and many inhabitants are descended from those who were forcibly brought here as part of the slave trade, while other ethnic groups were lured by the Portuguese to mine for gold. A large portion of the population identifies as Roman Catholic, and a significant number practice the cult-like religion of Candomblé (an African-American religion, chiefly practised in Brazil). Portuguese is the official language. BEST TIME In February, Salvador hosts one of the largest Carnaval celebrations in Brazil. It’s a great time to visit – if you’ve made accommodation reservations well in advance – but if you’re just interested in sightseeing, skip the crowds and sky-rocketing prices and opt for other dates between April and November, when the weather’s consistently warm but not uncomfortably hot.

The elaborate, slave-built facade of Igreja e Convento São Francisco / JONATHAN GREGSON | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Drinking in a panoramic bay view from the Praça Municipal, then marvelling at the off-kilter icons in the baroque Igreja e Convento São Francisco before attending an intriguing Candomblé service at a terreiro in Casa Branca. STRENGTHS • Exciting, exhilarating Carnaval • Capoeira street performances • Churches, churches, churches • Idyllic white-sand beaches • Colourful colonial facades • Warm waters • Enthusiastic, energetic locals • Charming cobblestone streets WEAKNESSES • Carnaval festivities can be dangerous • Rampant poverty • Begging in tourist areas • Pickpocketing is a problem in the Pelourinho • Food cooked in dendê (palm) oil irritates some travellers’ stomachs • Dengue fever GOLD STAR For mojo – Salvador da Bahia has a culture rich in hypnotic drum beats, fragrant spices, inherent sensuality and axé (divine energy that brings good luck). STARRING ROLE IN… • Dona Flor e Seus Dois Maridos (Dona Flor and Her Two Husbands) by Jorge Amado (film 1976) • Tenda dos Milagres (1977) • That’s My Face (2002)

• Robinson Crusoe by Daniel Defoe IMPORT • The Portuguese • A rich African culture • Tourism • Party-goers • Catholicism EXPORT • Petroleum • Capoeira • Sugar • Author Jorge Amado • Tobacco • Gold • Diamonds • Leather goods • Handicrafts SEE city streets from the windows behind the lift (elevator) entrances at the beautifully restored Art Deco Elevador Lacerda. EAT street-food classics like acarajé (deep-fried fritters made with mashed black-eyed peas and shrimp) at stands set up around the beaches and Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra. DRINK cold cerveja (beer) or caipirinhas at the open-air cafes and bars of the Pelourinho. DO attend Salvador’s raucous Carnaval, the second largest in Brazil. WATCH Bahia’s beautiful people, skimpy swimsuits and all, on beachside Praia Porto da Barra, bustling with vendors selling everything imaginable alongside the clear, calm waters. BUY local handicrafts ranging from embroidery to musical instruments at

Mercado Modelo on Praça Cayru. AFTER DARK catch capoeirstas in action in the plazas and capoeira academies of the Pelourinho.

URBAN TALE Forced to build their masters’ church, the baroque Igreja e Convento São Francisco, and yet prohibited from practising their own religion, African slave artisans responded through their work: cherubs’ faces are distorted, some angels are endowed with huge sex organs, while others appear pregnant.

A woman dressed in Afro-Bahian finery / WESTEND61 | GETTY IMAGES

San Cristóbal de las Casas // Mexico In the heart of Mexico’s southernmost state, San Cristóbal de las Casas is a light and airy city; diverse indigenous communities flock here to trade goods and ideas in among crumbling colonial churches and pastel-coloured houses.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: San Cristóbal de las Casas NICKNAME: San Cris DATE OF BIRTH: 1528; when Diego de Mazariegos founded the city as a Spanish regional base ADDRESS: Mexico (map 3, C4) HEIGHT: 1940m SIZE: 484 sq km POPULATION: 185,900 ANATOMY San Cristóbal de las Casas sits in a broad, fertile valley at an altitude of nearly 2000m. The town grid is framed on all sides by a chain of low hills dotted with indigenous villages. The serene heart of the city is Plaza 31 de Marzo where craft sellers, shoe shiners and lunch breakers mill around in the sun. Commerce and industry have not left a strong architectural imprint: to this day the tallest structures are the lovely Spanish municipal buildings and centuries-old cathedrals. Combis (shared minibuses) go up Av Crescencio Rosas from the Pan-American Hwy to the town centre. You can also catch taxis within town.

San Cristóbal nestles in a gorgeous highland valley surrounded by pine forest / DIEGO GRANDI | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Due to their custom of wearing their hair in ponytails, the men of the early Spanish colonial town of San Cristóbal earned the nickname coletos (from the Spanish word cola or ‘tail’). The word is still used to refer to a resident of the city although most citizens are mestizo (of mixed Spanish and indigenous ancestry). From its beginnings the town has been a regular meeting point for communities of Tzotzil and Tzeltal peoples, who continue to define the soul of the city. BEST TIME Sitting at altitude makes San Cristóbal a lot chillier than you might expect for a Mexican town, with lows in December and January hovering around freezing point. If you’re susceptible to the cold, shoot for mid-year, or pack an extra sweater.

Beautiful embroidery is a feature of local clothing / JEREMY WOODHOUSE/HOLLY WILMETH | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Getting up early to enjoy the freshest coffee from the city’s own Museo Café (Coffee Museum), heading to the hills on a caffeine high to observe the unique lifestyles of San Cristóbal’s village neighbours, making it back to the market for an open-air lunch in the middle of the madness then winding down in the late afternoon sun at Plaza 31 de Marzo. STRENGTHS • Bartolomé de las Casas (early defender of indigenous rights; the city is partially named in his honour) • Cobbled streets • Clear highland light • Plaza 31 de Marzo • Mercado Municipal – the wonderfully chaotic city market • Organic coffee • Templo de Santo Domingo

Chilli varieties for sale / KATHRIN ZIEGLER | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • Chilly nights • Accommodation shortages in peak vacation weeks • Tourists seem to outnumber locals downtown some days • Occasional power outages GOLD STAR For weaving – Tzotzil weavers are some of the most skilled in Mexico and their distinctive needlework can be seen everywhere you wander. STARRING ROLE IN… • A Place Called Chiapas (1998)

IMPORT • US-manufactured goods • Crafts and textiles from neighbouring townships • Spanish students • Tourists EXPORT • Amber • Toy slingshots • Leather goods • Huipiles (traditional blouses) • Zapatista ideology • Coffee SEE the charming Templo de Santo Domingo, a fine example of Spanish colonial architecture. EAT rustic tortillas with tiny amounts of ground limestone. DRINK organic coffee from locally harvested beans. DO an excursion to the nearby indigenous villages. WATCH colourful blouses, tunics and blankets being handwoven at one of the indigenous women’s weaving cooperatives around town. BUY locally made, handcrafted amber jewellery. AFTER DARK hang with the cool kids at Café Bar La Revolución, one of the top spots for live music around town.

URBAN TALE At midnight on 1 January 1994, a previously unknown leftist guerrilla army, the Zapatistas, emerged from the woods to occupy San Cristóbal de las Casas and other towns in Chiapas. Linking antiglobalisation

rhetoric with Mexican revolutionary sloganism, their declared goal was to overturn a wealthy local oligarchy’s centuries-old hold on land, resources and power and to fight to improve the wretched living standards of Mexico’s indigenous people. The Zapatistas’ charismatic pipe-puffing Subcomandante Marcos rapidly became a cult figure. His articulate dispatches – delivered in mocking, humorous and often selfdeprecating tones – demanded justice and reform. After a high-profile media campaign during the 2006 presidential elections, the Zapatistas began to run out of steam (or retreated to the countryside to consolidate forces, depending on who you ask). The giddy days when this largely forgotten corner of the country was thrust into the international spotlight are deeply ingrained in San Cristóbal’s identity, though, and you’ll still see plenty of pro-Zapatista graffiti around the place, along with lots of reading material in the bookstores and a range of Zapatista-themed souvenirs in the handicrafts markets.

Fiesta flags fly from Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe / GUMBAO | SHUTTERSTOCK

San Francisco // USA The City by the Bay sparkles with dot-com companies, literary luminaries, culinary stand-outs and a dizzying array of cultures.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: San Francisco NICKNAME: City by the Bay; SF DATE OF BIRTH: 1776, when a military post was established by Spanish missionaries from Mexico ADDRESS: USA (map 2, A7) HEIGHT: 16m SIZE: 121 sq km (city), 9128 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 864,816 (city), 4.6 million (metro area) ANATOMY The city occupies the tightly packed tip of a peninsula bordered by the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay. The central part resembles a slice of pie, with Van Ness Ave and Market St forming the two sides and the Embarcadero bend as the outer crust. The pie’s filling consists of prime tourist spots like Union Sq, the Financial District, Civic Center, Chinatown, North Beach, Nob Hill, Russian Hill and Fisherman’s Wharf. There are also recently gentrified SoMa (South of Market) where tech companies and luxury apartments abound, and The Mission and Castro where food, history and edginess combine. San Francisco’s main public transport system is Muni, which runs buses, streetcars and the famous cable cars.

Golden Gate Bridge lives up to its name in the sunlight / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Though just under half the population is white, the Asian community comes a close second, as evidenced by the world’s largest Chinatown outside Asia. The rest of the city’s residents are Latino (the majority being Mexican), black, and a significant 7% who classify themselves as ‘other’. In this famously liberal city it’s no surprise that around 6% of SF citizens identify as LGBT (the highest in the country). BEST TIME It’s not often you’re told to avoid a city in summer because of its weather, but SF in July and August can be foggy, grey and chilly. Much better are spring and autumn, with clear blue skies and warm temperatures, perfect for June’s Pride celebrations and September’s free Shakespeare in the Park festival. Winter’s rain and cold is brightened by the huge Chinese New Year festivities.

The restored historic No 1061 Pacific Electric streetcar / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Starting with a parrot’s eye-view of the city from the Coit Tower before descending into North Beach for some fresh focaccia at Liguria Bakery. Browsing books in City Lights and lunching on dim sum in Chinatown, then joining the night tour of Alcatraz (booked well in advance), and enjoying the free, breathtaking sunset views of the city and Golden Gate Bridge (fog permitting) as you sail over to the island. STRENGTHS • Golden Gate Bridge • The Presidio • Mexican food • Diverse sexuality • Eccentricity • The Giants • The Ferry Plaza Farmers Market • San Francisco 49ers • Golden Gate Park WEAKNESSES • Panhandlers • Fog • Rough ’hood of the Tenderloin • San Andreas Fault • Real-estate prices GOLD STAR For hanging out – Kerouac came here to learn how to do nothing and it’s still a great place to people-watch or just tune into the universe, man (before sharing your experience on one of the social media outlets the area is home to). STARRING ROLE IN… • Vertigo (1958)

• Birdman of Alcatraz (1962) • Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner (1967) • The Joy Luck Club (1993) • Inside Out (2015) • The Golden Gate by Vikram Seth • On the Road by Jack Kerouac IMPORT • Gold diggers • Tom Waits • Isabel Allende • Amy Tan • Jack Kerouac • Mark Twain • Allen Ginsberg • Lawrence Ferlinghetti • Robin Williams • Dave Eggers EXPORT • Clint Eastwood • Hippies • Grateful Dead • Dead Kennedys • Martinis • Performance poetry • Jack London • Levi’s jeans • OJ Simpson • Twitter • Sam Spade • Sourdough bread SEE the almost inescapable Alcatraz, which hosted Al Capone and a bird fancier or two.

EAT a boa constrictor of a burrito at La Taquería on Mission St. DRINK a coffee at Caffe Trieste in North Beach, where Coppola wrote The Godfather. DO the bike ride across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito. WATCH SF satire at its campest in Beach Blanket Babylon. BUY the Grateful Dead on vinyl at Amoeba Music on Haight St. AFTER DARK catch a brew and beating at Bondage A Go Go at the Cat Club.

URBAN TALE Joshua Norton came to San Francisco as a young man in 1849. After eight years of increasing poverty, he snapped, at least in one key respect: he declared himself the Emperor Norton I of the United States, and within a month he added the title Protector of Mexico. Norton never appeared without his uniform, including a plumed hat and sword. He issued his own money, which was good-naturedly accepted by many shopkeepers. Norton also made an injunction against the word ‘Frisco’ with a princely penalty of $25. In 1880, thousands of people attended Norton’s royal funeral.

You can’t get fresher than the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market / ANDREW MONTGOMERY | LONELY PLANET

San Juan // Puerto Rico San Juan offers all the fun and drama of a Latino holiday haven, played out against the backdrop of the spectacular fortressed walls of the old city.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: San Juan NICKNAME: The Walled City DATE OF BIRTH: 1511; when the Spanish colonised the city ADDRESS: Puerto Rico (map 3, N3) HEIGHT: 25m SIZE: 199 sq km POPULATION: 395, 326 ANATOMY The city stretches from San Juan Bay across a coastal plain. The city’s centre (Old San Juan) is crammed with Spanish colonial architecture. This walled city occupies the end of a small island on the eastern side of the entrance to the bay. East of Old San Juan are the red-hot resort districts of Condado and Isla Verde, with greater San Juan stretching south, east and west of the main centre. Walking is the best way to get around Old San Juan and the immediate vicinity, though there is a handy and free tourist trolley. There are also many públicos (shared taxis – mainly minibuses) available.

A Spanish lookout tower commands a view over the old city walls and the Puerto Rican coast / SEANPAVONEPHOTO | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The majority of the population (around 80%) is of Spanish or mixed Spanish descent, while around 20% are of African descent. Most locals are Roman Catholic, with around 10% being Protestant and a small percentage following other faiths. The official language is Spanish, but English is widely spoken. Despite the fact that Puerto Rico is a US territory, hourly wages are significantly lower than in the USA and, thus, many residents work for US companies. They are increasingly prosperous. BEST TIME San Juan experiences tropical weather year-round. But temperatures can soar to uncomfortable highs in summer, and hurricanes are possible from June to November, so the months of December to April or May are generally considered the best time to visit. A PERFECT DAY

Sipping coffee and scrawling inspired notes for ‘the novel’ at the popular meeting place for writers and artists, Cuatro Estaciones cafe in Old San Juan, then heading to the beach for a splash and some well-deserved shut-eye in the sun, before sprucing up for a sizzling night of salsa at La Rumba. STRENGTHS • Good offshore fishing • World-class golf-courses close by • Coral reefs offshore • Thriving nightlife • Rainforest nearby • Gardens of the Casa Blanca • World Heritage site of Old San Juan • Beach weather year-round • Mercado de Río Piedras WEAKNESSES • Confusing street signs (speed limit signs are in miles, even though distances are in kilometres) • Traffic jams • Petty theft can be a problem for tourists • Many restaurants closed on Sunday or Monday GOLD STAR For the walled city of Old San Juan – within its walls are the charms of over 400 years of Spanish colonial history, fine cultural institutions, a spirited community and a thriving nightlife. This fortress of fun offers travellers more entertainment per square kilometre than New York City, at a pace that is laidback and distinctly Puerto Rican. STARRING ROLE IN… • Assassins (1995) • GoldenEye (1995) • Contact (1997) • Amistad (1997) • Under Suspicion (1999)

• Bad Boys 2 (2002) • Havana Nights (2003) IMPORT • Millions of tourist dollars each year • Fast-food chains • American chain stores • Fish • Fuel EXPORT • Chemicals • Electronics • Apparel • Rum • Beverage concentrates • Actress Rita Moreno • Actor Raul Julia SEE the salsa heroes of tomorrow perform on the streets of the modern city of San Juan. Eat your fill of fresh, cheap exotic fruits as you peruse the market stalls of the colourful Mercado de Río Piedras. DRINK free rum on a boozed-up tour at the factory of world-famous Bacardi Rum. DO devote as many days as possible to exploring Old San Juan – to fully soak up its bubbling tropical atmosphere and bold beauty. WATCH surfers battle the swells east of the broad tropical beach of Isla Verde in the dusk of early evening. BUY coffee beans grown in the country’s mountainous interior. AFTER DARK join a lively crowd for first-class cocktails at La Factoria.

URBAN TALE Capilla del Cristo (Christ’s Chapel) has long been a popular place to pray for miracles. Legend has it that it was built to commemorate a miracle: during a horse race, one horse galloped over the top of the wall into the sea, but the rider survived. Believers continue to leave tokens of thanks at the chapel for miracles in their own lives.

Refreshing batidas (fruit smoothies) are available day and night / FRANZ MARC FREI | GETTY IMAGES

San Salvador // El Salvador You can come here to be one of the few tourists to see San Salvador’s lovely natural setting, or to explore the leafy streets and the impressive galleries and museums, but really, just come for the people – San Salvadorans are friendly, helpful, curious and generous, the best reason to visit the city.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: San Salvador NICKNAME: San Sal DATE OF BIRTH: 1525; when it was founded by Spanish conquistador Pedro de Alvarado ADDRESS: El Salvador (map 3, E6) HEIGHT: 682m SIZE: 75 sq km POPULATION: 1.7 million ANATOMY Built on a volcanic slope that parallels the Pacific coast and located beneath the San Salvador volcano, this is El Salvador’s largest city, and its principal crossroads. It functions as the transportation and economic hub of the nation, and is home to one-third of the population and half of the nation’s wealth. Crossed by the Pan American Hwy, the city’s modern downtown area has many high-rise buildings, but sadly earthquakes have destroyed the majority of historic landmarks. San Salvador’s extensive bus network can get you just about anywhere you need.

Mercado Centrale is Salvadoran city life at full throttle / CHRISTOPHER JAMES GUY | 500PX

PEOPLE San Salvadorans are known throughout the region for their industrious and upbeat approach to life. Catholicism plays an integral role in daily life, which also revolves around family, food and festivals. Spanish is the official language, but English is widely spoken here by Central American standards, and many locals will have had personal experience of expatriate life in America. The majority is mestizo (of mixed Spanish and indigenous ancestry). The civil war still looms large for many, but they’re genuinely dismayed to learn that foreigners know little about their country other than war, and will talk with pride about its natural virtues. BEST TIME Fiestas Agostinas is a weeklong party held across the country in August to celebrate El Salvador, The Saviour, the man also known as Jesus Christ. The

pinnacle is the festival of El Salvador del Mundo which kicks off with incredible gusto. Many shops are closed, but it’s the start of a long holiday and many spontaneous and organised parties erupt across the city. Also, December and January enjoy a near perfect climate.

The stunning view from Boquerón volcano takes in the city, Lago Ilopango and San Vicente volcano / STUART GRAY | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Beginning the day with bread and cafecito (short black coffee), stocking up on food in the Mercado Central, cooking a beans-and-rice lunch then snoozing away the siesta, climbing a volcano or hitting a nearby beach, drinking Pilsener and getting down to some cumbia (Colombian dance tunes) and salsa. STRENGTHS • San Salvadorans • Few foreign tourists • The Maya influence

• Creative street vendors • The Festival of El Salvador del Mundo (the Saviour of the World) • Volcano El Boquerón • Museo de Arte de El Salvador (MARTE) • Proximity to world-class surf beaches • The adventure of travelling a relatively unvisited city • Year-round summer climate and tropical fruit WEAKNESSES • Lack of green spaces • Overcrowded, unreliable public transport • Ubiquitous guns • Poor walking paths • Some no-go areas GOLD STAR For Zona Rosa – the Pink Zone is the home to the country’s diplomatic circle, plus fine museums, galleries, and the best nightlife in Central America. STARRING ROLE IN… • Salvador (1986) • Romero (1988) • One Day of Life by Manlio Argueta • Salvador by Joan Didion • San Salvador by Roque Dalton IMPORT • Shopping malls and fast food • Football • Foreign aid EXPORT • Coffee • Liberation theology • Tobacco • Textiles, especially hammocks

• Soaps • Political activists • Enterprising refugees SEE the view of the city from the rim of Boquerón volcano. EAT pupusas (small, circular, meat, bean or cheese tortillas) from a street stall. DRINK El Cadejo or Pilsener beer at a bar and be greeted with infectious hospitality by the locals. DO wander through the impressive collection of local and foreign artists at the Museo de Arte de El Salvador (MARTE). WATCH the maelstrom of crowds scurrying through sprawling markets, music blaring from every direction and buses zipping around at breakneck pace. BUY handicrafts, hand-woven textiles and ceramics at the teeming Mercado Ex-Cuartel. AFTER DARK dance to live music around the hip Zona Rosa district.

URBAN TALE Salvadorans picked up the nickname guanacos (llamas) in Central America due to their legacy of hard work (and casual spitting!) while constructing the Panama Canal. It’s now a source of local pride, much like el cadejo, a mythical dog representing good and evil throughout Latin American culture. El Cadejo is a booming craft beer which can be seen throughout the city, offering locals the ultimate existential choice between la negra (black) and la blanca (white).

Plaza Libertad and the landmark Catedral Metropolitana / JOHN COLETTI | GETTY IMAGES

San Sebastián // Spain Cool, svelte and flirtatious by night, pretty and well-mannered by day, San Sebastián is one of Europe’s original beach resorts and its breathtaking natural beauty, easy-going beach chic and extraordinary cuisine make for a city that continues to charm.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: San Sebastián (Basque name: Donostia) DATE OF BIRTH: 1174; San Sebastián was granted self-governing status by the kingdom of Navarra, for whom the bay was the principal outlet to the sea ADDRESS: Spain (map 4, F14) HEIGHT: 7m SIZE: 61 sq km POPULATION: 186,409 ANATOMY San Sebastián has four main centres of activity. The busy and modern centre with its belle-époque architecture surrounds the Catedral del Buen Pastor, while the heart of San Sebastián beats in the Parte Vieja (Old Town), squeezed below Monte Urgull Parque on the eastern spur of the superb Bahía de la Concha. At the opposite end of the bay is the upmarket neighbourhood of Ondarreta. Finally, there’s the Gros neighbourhood, east of the city centre, with its surfing beach and numerous pintxo (tapas) bars more popular with locals than tourists.

Bahia de la Concha, with its perfect city beach / JUSTIN FOLKES | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE The Basque people are proud of being ‘different’ from other Spaniards and French. Nobody even really knows where the Basques came from. They have no migration myth in their oral history, but their presence in this region is thought to predate even the earliest known migrations. Some say they are the original Europeans. It’s their language though that makes them really stand out. Euskara is one of Europe’s oldest languages and has no known connection to any other Indo-European language. During the years of the Franco dictatorship in Spain, Euskara was banned, but today the language is blossoming and typical citizens of San Sebastián speak Castilian (Spanish) to visitors and Euskara among themselves. Today, San Sebastián might appear glamorous and international, but at heart this is still a resolutely Basque city that retains a proud grip on local traditions. BEST TIME June and September are the prime times to visit. The sun should be shining, the beaches are much quieter than July and August, the water warm, the

sights all open, the bars and restaurants buzzing but not swamped and there’s a busy festival calendar including the world-renowned September Film Festival.

Amazingly creative and tasty pintxos are a highlight of San Sebastián / JUSTIN FOLKES | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Starting the day with a refreshing dip at the beach to get the blood pumping after the night before, which saw you tripping between pintxos (Basque tapas) bars until the wee hours, then spending the morning sussing out some of the edgy graphic arts on display at the San Telmo Museoa (San Telmo Museum), followed by a very satisfying Michelin-starred lunch. STRENGTHS • Great local beaches • Stylish places to stay • San Sebastián Film Festival • Innovative nouvelle cuisine • Heineken Jazzalida (a major international jazz festival) • Views from Monte Igueldo • Eduardo Chillida’s Peine del Viento sculpture • Interesting Basque culture

Bars and cafes crowd cheek by jowl in the Parte Vieja (Old Town) / ANGUS OBORN | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • Crowds in summer • Can be very hard to find accommodation on spec in summer (and increasingly in winter!) • Reservations at one of the city’s three-Michelin star restaurants can be very hard to get • Pintxos are considerably more expensive here than in other Basque towns GOLD STAR For food – Basque pintxos are arguably the greatest snacks in the world and San Sebastián’s chefs are renowned as the most creative in the game. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Sun Also Rises (1926) • The Red Squirrel (1993) • A Social Parade (2004)

IMPORT • Castellano (Castilian) • Fireworks (for the August International Firework Competition) • Jazz • Cod (now) EXPORT • Beach chic • Red berets • Jai-alai (a Basque form of handball) • Cider • Cod (then) SEE beautiful Playa de la Concha – easily one of the world’s finest urban beaches. EAT at Juan Mari Arzak’s triple-Michelin-starred Arzak. DRINK red wine from nearby La Rioja. DO a walk to the top of Monte Urgull by taking a path from Plaza de Zuloaga or from behind the aquarium. WATCH hot cinema at the San Sebastián Film Festival. BUY cutting-edge Basque fashion from the Loreak Mendian label. AFTER DARK go bar-hopping in the Parte Vieja.

URBAN TALE On Christmas Eve, locals climb Mt Igueldo with an effigy of a sea bream – a pre-Christian ritual to ward off the character of Olentzaro, a charcoal burner who slithers down chimneys on that day and wreaks havoc. Locals keep their fireplaces well stocked with burning wood on the day to keep him at bay. A pastry shaped like a sea bream is also eaten

on Christmas Eve, as the fish is strongly associated with Olentzaro.

El Peine del Viento (The Comb of the Wind) by Eduardo Chillida is one of the city’s many open-air sculptures / BEL_N MARTINEZ/EYEEM | GETTY IMAGES

Santa Fe // USA The cultural capital of the Southwest, Santa Fe is a charming mix of early US history, the arts, a unique local cuisine and outdoorsy exploits, all set in an epic, high-desert landscape.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Santa Fe NICKNAME: The City Different DATE OF BIRTH: Site of Pueblo Indian villages as early as 1050; officially founded by the Spanish conquistador Don Pedro de Peralta in 1609 ADDRESS: USA, (map 2, G8) HEIGHT: 2194m SIZE: 97 sq km POPULATION: 84,099 ANATOMY Spreading down the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo mountains of northern New Mexico, historic Santa Fe has a European feel in its winding maze of streets and low-slung adobe (mud brick) architecture. The nascent Santa Fe River flows out of the mountains down through the city, whose historic heart centres on the Plaza – a leafy square that marks the end of the old Santa Fe Trail trading route.

Green and leafy Santa Fe / DENISTANGNEYJR | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Santa Fe enjoys a diverse population, nearly half of which is Hispanic or Latino. Spanish is widely spoken here. Native Americans – primarily Navajo or Puebloan peoples – also make up an important part of the city’s fabric. Santa Fe has a sizeable population of wealthy retirees, as well as artists and writers from elsewhere. Catholicism is the dominant religion, and the city has a notable New Age community. BEST TIME Santa Fe is pleasant year-round, but is particularly fine in September and October, when days are warm and evenings crisp, the mountains turn the shade of golden aspen leaves and the aroma of roasting green chile lingers over the city. September marks the annual Fiestas de Santa Fe arts and crafts market, while winter draws skiers and snowboarders for powdery exploits at Ski Santa Fe.

Red chile drying by a doorway / JUSTIN FOULKES | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Grabbing a breakfast of huevos rancheros (eggs, beans, cheese and chile on a tortilla) at the Tecolote Cafe, then visiting the Museum of New Mexico to get to know Santa Fe’s long and fascinating history. Later, scarfing blue corn burritos for lunch on the flower-laden patio at the Shed, followed by shopping for the perfect piece of silver or turquoise jewellery from the Native American artists at the Palace of the Governors. In the evening, sipping strong margaritas at the Coyote Cafe’s upstairs terrace, or two-stepping to some local music legends in La Fiesta Lounge at La Fonda Hotel. STRENGTHS • Native American cultural institutions: the Wheelright Museum of the American Indian and the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture • Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi • Georgia O’Keeffe Museum • Vibrant LGBT scene • Canyon Road art district • New Mexican cuisine • La Casa Vieja de Analco – the oldest house in the USA • Art markets galore – the Spanish, Indian and Folk Art Markets are topnotch • Santa Fe Opera • Outdoor pursuits on the doorstep – skiing, hiking, camping, fishing and rafting are all minutes away • Spanish/Pueblo Revival architecture

Typical Southwestern-style adobe building / CHAPIN31 | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • Elevation can be difficult to adjust to • Lack of good budget accommodation options • Limited public transport GOLD STAR For its outstanding arts scene. Santa Fe’s arts scene draws heavily on its Native American and Spanish heritage, and contemporary/modern art has grown significantly here in recent decades, from the pastel flower paintings of Georgia O’Keeffe to Diego Romero’s Cochiti Pueblo pop-culture pottery. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Cowboys (1972) • The Milagro Beanfield War (1988) • Crazy Heart (2009) • Manhattan (TV show, 2014–) • Death Comes for the Archbishop by Willa Cather

• Bless Me, Ultima by Rudolfo Anaya IMPORT • Spanish, Native American and Mexican cuisines • Contemporary art • Texas-style barbecue • Range Rovers EXPORT • Native American art • Turquoise and silver jewellery • Adobe architecture • Western movies • Green chile • Beirut (band) SEE the Palace of the Governors, the oldest public building in the US – home to New Mexico’s first Spanish governor in 1610. EAT blue corn burritos smothered ‘Christmas-style’ with red and green chile at the Shed. DRINK a strong margarita on the open-air terrace at the Coyote Cantina. DO hike up to ‘Baldy’, Santa Fe’s treeless 3700m peak for expansive views over the city and desert beyond. WATCH a world premiere or old favourite at Santa Fe Opera, and take a posh picnic for ‘tailgating’ in the car park beforehand. BUY handmade silver or turquoise jewellery from the Native American artists who sell their pieces along the portal at the Palace of the Governors. AFTER DARK two-step the night away to a local country and western band at La Fiesta Lounge in La Fonda Hotel.

URBAN TALE The mystery of the spiral staircase in the Loretto Chapel is Santa Fe’s most famous legend. In 1872, the archbishop commissioned a new chapel for the Sisters of Loretto nuns. After its completion, the builders realised they hadn’t made a way to reach the choir loft. The story goes that after the sisters prayed for help, a mysterious stranger knocked on the door and spent all night crafting a wooden staircase before disappearing the next day. Everyone believed it to be a miracle, as the staircase contained no nails. This has since been explained as a trick of spiral carpentry, but the ‘miracle staircase’ still draws pilgrims and curious travellers.

Fall harvest bounty at the Saturday Market / RON WATTS | GETTY IMAGES

Santiago de Chile // Chile With a growing economy, renovated arts scene and energy and eccentricity to spare, this old-guard city is on the cusp of a modern-day renaissance.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Santiago de Chile NICKNAME: Santiago DATE OF BIRTH: 1541; founded by conquistador Pedro de Valdivia ADDRESS: Chile (map 1, N21) HEIGHT: 520m SIZE: 641 sq km (city), 15,403 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 5.2 million (city), 7.4 million (metro area) ANATOMY Greater Santiago is an immense bowl-shaped city jammed in between the Andes and the coastal cordillera. The most important axis is the east–west thoroughfare Av O’Higgins (popularly known as the Alameda), which in the east becomes Av Providencia and, further east, Av Apoquindo and Av Las Condes. The metro’s Línea 1 follows this main axis, leading ‘up’ to the residential areas at the foot of the mountains and ‘down’ in the direction of the coast.

The Andes – and Torre Costanera – tower over Santiago / YADID LEVY/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The huge conurbation of Santiago is home to 42% of all Chileans. Santiago’s people are mainly of Spanish ancestry, but the Irish and English also made a mark and there’s an indigenous population too. Other immigrants came from Germany, France, Italy, Croatia, Asia and Palestine. Spanish is the official language. Santiaguinos tend to be polite, well-dressed and somewhat reserved, despite their predilection for staying out late. They are hardworking, prosperous and business-minded. The hardships of Pinochet’s dictatorship are not forgotten, but best avoided in conversation. BEST TIME December to February is summer with warm days but chillier evenings due to the dry climate and the city’s proximity to the mountains. Shoulder season is September to November, when prices are lower and temperatures are moderate. March to August is cold, but there’s ample skiing in the mountains surrounding the city and the wine harvest begins in March and April, making

it ideal for day trips to nearby wineries. A PERFECT DAY Meandering in the city’s historic centre, Plaza de Armas, a bustling square with a fountain celebrating Simon Bolivar and clutch of colonial and neoclassical buildings, and stopping off in one of the spots flanking the Mercado Central for an empanada de queso (cheese-filled turnover). Then heading to Museum Nacional de Bella Artes (the national museum of fine art) or Parque de las Esculturas, an open-air sculpture garden on the banks of the Río Mapocho. STRENGTHS • Bellavista’s hip, energetic restaurant and club scene • Quirky architecture in the atmospheric Barrios Brasil • Barrio Lastarria’s laid-back bars and cafés • Skiing at Portillo • Proximity to the Andes and renowned wineries WEAKNESSES • Pollution • Poor environmental record • The growing number of pickpockets, especially in the Centro • Disparity between rich and poor GOLD STAR For location – there’s something kind of great about being smack in the middle of a metropolis and then looking up and seeing snowy peaks. The second-highest mountain range in the world is just a few kilometres away. STARRING ROLE IN… • El Topo (The Mole, 1971) • Amnesia (1994) • El Chacotero Sentimental (The Sentimental Teaser, 1999) • En la Cama (In Bed, 2005) • House of the Spirits by Isabel Allende • Passions and Impressions by Pablo Neruda

IMPORT • Roman Catholicism • Deforestation • Obligatory military service (for all citizens aged 18 to 45) • Spaniards • Neoclassical architecture • Fast-food chains • Bourgeois houses • Nescafé EXPORT • Nobel Prize–winning poets • Pablo Neruda’s poetry • Copper • Augusto Pinochet • Novelist Isabel Allende • Wood chips • Wine SEE the Barrio Lastarria, a well-preserved traditional neighbourhood with cobbled streets and abundant cafes and restaurants. EAT from the tasting menu at Peumayen, which presents innovative Chilean cuisine embracing Mapuche, Easter Island and Quechua roots. DRINK a pisco sour while taking in some local theatre, poetry or live music at La Casa en el Aire. DO catch the funicular up to Cerro San Cristóbal, whose 863m summit is crowned by a dazzling white statue of the Virgin Mary. WATCH a Chilean-style rodeo at Club de Huasos Gil Letelier. BUY handicrafts from all over the country, including hand-woven alpaca shawls, Mapuche silver jewellery, lapis lazuli, black pottery and copperware at the artisans’ village Centro Artesanal de Los Dominicos.

AFTER DARK head to the Tantra Lounge, where the cool folk go after drinks at Etniko.

URBAN TALE Santiago’s football team, Colo-colo, was named after a Mapuche tribal chief who was instrumental in the 16th-century Arauco War that ended in the Spanish conquest of Chile. He is remembered as a symbol of heroism, courage and wisdom, and his statue graces the city’s football stadium, Estadio Monumental.

Chile’s finest chess players go head-to-head at the Plaza de Armas / RICHARD NOWITZ | GETTY IMAGES

Santo Domingo // Dominican Republic A profoundly festive place, the oldest Spanish city in the Americas combines history with lush natural surroundings and energetic urban culture.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Santo Domingo DATE OF BIRTH: 1498; when it was founded by Bartolomé Columbus, brother of Christopher ADDRESS: Dominican Republic (map 3, M3) HEIGHT: 17m SIZE: 104 sq km POPULATION: 2.9 million ANATOMY Santo Domingo began as the birthplace of European colonies in the New World, and it is now the capital of the Dominican Republic. The city is lined with gorgeous turquoise waters that crash against the well-trod malecón (waterfront promenade), and as you move inland you’ll discover streets bustling with honking traffic, bars turning up the merengue beat, and a series of parks and plazas buzzing with locals and tourists alike. But the crown jewel of Santo Domingo is its Zona Colonial, the impressive Unesco World Heritage site where Columbus began building the first European city in the Americas.

Pastel-coloured colonial architecture in Santo Domingo / BOISVIEUX CHRISTOPHE/HEMIS.FR | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Like the rest of the Dominican population, Santo Domingans speak Spanish and largely ascribe to Catholicism, and the majority are of mixed African and European descent. The culture in the capital is a social one, with colmados – small corner stores/bars where patrons stop in for a refreshing rum or Presidente beer, a rousing game of dominoes, or the score of the day’s baseball – reigning supreme. Santo Domingans are friendly and quick to hit the dance floor, so be sure to brush up on your skills before you visit. BEST TIME While high season runs from December to February, Santo Domingo becomes party central multiple times a year: prepare for exuberant Carnaval parades in late February and early March, and be sure to hit the malecón in late summer to catch the city’s annual Merengue & Caribbean Rhythms Festival. Hurricane season lasts from August to December, so be on the lookout for the occasional storm.

Christopher Columbus presides over Parque Colón / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Strolling and dining on savoury Dominican food on the malecón, watching Tigres del Licey play some superb baseball at Quisqueya Stadium, then dancing merengue at Guacara Taina until dawn. STRENGTHS • Lively Carnaval and merengue festivals • Well-preserved Spanish colonial buildings • Baseball games • Obelisco del Malecón • Museo de las Casas Reales • 16th-century Calle de las Damas (Ladies’ Street) • All-night, or any time, dancing • Roba La Gallina (enormous chicken character in the Carnaval parades) • Affordable accommodation • Easy access to the ocean

WEAKNESSES • Petty crime • Hurricanes • Cockfighting • Intense traffic • Poverty GOLD STAR For being the most mobile ‘founding city’ – Santo Domingo was originally located in La Villa de Navidad in Haiti, moved 100km east to La Isabela, then onto the east bank of the Río Ozama, and finally settled itself on the Ozama’s west bank. STARRING ROLE IN… • Santo Domingo Blues (2004) • In the Time of the Butterflies by Julia Álvarez • Sucre amer (Bitter Sugar) by Maurice Lemoine • The Feast of the Goat by Mario Vargas Llosa • The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao by Junot Diaz IMPORT • Spanish and French culture • American popular culture • Baseball • Foreign investment in the tourism sector EXPORT • Rum • Gold • Author Julia Álvarez • Cigars • Merengue • Baseball players to the US leagues SEE tabacos (cigars) being rolled at the Boutique del Fumador or the Museo del Tabaco.

EAT empanadas (Chilean-style turnover stuffed with meat or cheese and raisins) and pastelitos (meat- and cheese-filled pastries) from street stalls. DRINK rum at sunset at Plaza de Hispanidad. DO bargain at the Pulga de Antigüedades (Antique Market) on Sunday. WATCH a baseball game played by either Licey or Escojido at Quisqueya Stadium. BUY amber or larimar (an opaque blue stone found only in the Dominican Republic) jewellery in the Zona Colonial. AFTER DARK dance to bachata, son and merengue at El Sartén, a local dance bar with a classic vibe.

URBAN TALE To celebrate the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ arrival in the Americas, President Belaguer planned to construct a lighthouse (the Faro a Colón). The plan was pilloried as ridiculously expensive and a show of megalomania; protests intensified, demonstrators were killed and foreign powers quietly withdrew their support. Two days before the inauguration, the president’s 73-year-old sister, Doña Emma, had one last inspection, only to die mysteriously a few hours later. Belaguer refused to attend the inauguration, and Santo Domingans whispered of a fukú (curse) and reminded themselves that Columbus’ name was always known to bring bad luck.

Merengue dancers entertain at El Conuco restaurant / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

São Paulo // Brazil Characterised by its dynamism, immensity and drive, São Paulo is a vibrant and diverse cultural haven for the hardiest of urban explorers.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: São Paulo NICKNAME: Sampa DATE OF BIRTH: 1554; founded by Jesuit missionaries on 25 January, the anniversary of St Paul’s conversion ADDRESS: Brazil (map 1, Q19) HEIGHT: 820m SIZE: 1493 sq km (city), 7944 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 12 million (city), 21 million (metro area) ANATOMY Senses are overwhelmed by the sheer scale of Sampa. As one of the world’s largest conurbations, it is a megalopolis with sprawl both outward and upward, stretching without restraint in virtually every direction. The first highland settlement established in Brazil, São Paulo occupies the lower terraces of the Tietê River among tall grasses and scrub trees and features an urban core characterised by several squares and parks among a maze of modern skyscrapers. Rich and perplexing architectural customs range from neo-Gothic to Modernist, with structures of steel, glass and concrete looming in creative juxtaposition over the city’s bustling streets. São Paulo’s immense public-transport system is arguably the world’s most complex, with over 1333 bus routes. You can reach many places on the excellent Metrô São Paulo, the city’s rapidly expanding subway system, which is cheap, safe and fast.

Symbol of the city, Octávio Frias de Oliveira Bridge / THIAGO LEITE | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE The country’s unparalleled racial and ethnic diversity means there is no such thing as a typical Brazilian face. São Paulo saw a massive influx of immigrants during the early 20th century and is known to have the largest group of Italian, Japanese, and Lebanese descendants outside of their respective home countries, as well sizeable German, Chinese, Armenian, Lithuanian and African communities. São Paulo features the biggest and besteducated middle class in Brazil and is home to the largest openly gay community in Latin America. BEST TIME The winter months of June to September are the best time to see São Paulo, when the rainfall subsides and the city’s best events are in full swing.

The party has long since started at the city’s Carnaval / VERGANI FOTOGRAFIA | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Wandering around the old city centre of Centro Velho, a pedestrianised zone set among a series of fascinating architectural facades, where paulistanos buy, sell and trade wares, then heading to Avenida Paulista to check out some of Brazil’s best art at Museum de Arte de São Paulo (MASP), before feasting on Michelin-rated Brazilian fare at chef Alex Atala’s DOM. STRENGTHS • Caixa Cultural • Gastronomic scene • Parque Ibirapuera • Edifício Martinelli • 470 registered helicopters • Round-the-clock nightlife • Street art • Most pizzerias in the world

• Diverse immigrant festivals • 15,000 nightclubs and bars

Museu de Arte de São Paulo possesses Latin America’s most comprehensive collection of Western art / GIANCARLO LIGUORI | SHUTTERSTOCK

WEAKNESSES • Traffic • Easy to get lost • Smog GOLD STAR For the world’s largest Pride parade, usually five-million strong. STARRING ROLE IN… • Besame Mucho (1987) • Carandiru (2003) • Café com Leite (2007) • Blindness (2008)

• Lula, o Filho do Brasil (2009) • Colegas (2012) IMPORT • German beer-brewing customs • Incredible sushi • Best pizza outside of Italy • Immigrant-Portuguese dialects EXPORT • Raw sugar • Coffee • Neuroscientist Miguel Nicolelis • The personal stereo player, invented by Andreas Pavel SEE a panoramic view of the city for free from the observation deck of the Banespa skyscraper, Brazil’s 161m-high version of the Empire State Building. EAT rodízio (all-you-can-eat) sushi in Liberdade, perfect pie at Bráz Pizzaria, and pastel de bacalhau (salt-cod pastry) or a heaping mortadella sandwich from Mercado Municipal. DRINK one of the city’s best caipirinhas at Veloso in Vila Mariana. DO escape from the city’s seemingly infinite stretches of concrete in Parque Ibirapuera, the biggest green space in central São Paulo. WATCH top jazz and popular Brazilian musicians at Barretto, an intimate bar inside the Hotel Fasano that conjures pre-war Milan. BUY quality, affordable, fair-trade Brazilian handcrafts at Casa da Vila. AFTER DARK head to Vila Madalena for a night out on the town, starting with an art crawl and ending at one of the many hip clubs.

URBAN TALE In 1959, the top vote at a city council election went to Cacareco, a fiveyear-old female rhinoceros at the local zoo. She won 15% of the total with 100,000 votes, the highest for a local candidate in history to that date. Local students printed 200,000 ballots with her name, though they were all legitimately cast by voters. Election officials nullified Cacareco’s ballots and held a re-election the following week.

Labareda (the flame), at the entrance to the Auditório Ibirapuera performance space / ANDREA PISTOLESI | GETTY IMAGES

Sarajevo // Bosnia & Hercegovina With a Turkic heart but a European soul, Sarajevo has lived an exhaustingly dramatic life. Infamous for starting WWI with Franz Ferdinand’s assassination, it put on a great party for the 1984 winter Olympics, but was then blasted to bits between 1992 and 1995. Today’s Sarajevo is rebuilt and relaxed.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Sarajevo DATE OF BIRTH: 1461; fathered by Ottoman governor Isa-bey Isaković ADDRESS: Bosnia & Hercegovina (map 4, Q14) HEIGHT: 500m-650m (it’s very hilly) SIZE: 489 sq km POPULATION: 395,000 ANATOMY Surrounded by forested slopes and skiable mountain-tops, Sarajevo winds through the deep Miljacka Valley with red-tiled houses and uncountable minarets sweeping up the hillsides from Baščaršija, the bustling old Turkish Quarter. Further southwest, platoons of Yugoslav-era tower blocks march towards the leafy spa-suburb of Ilidža and the city’s petite little airport.

Festina Lente is a looping bridge leading to the Academy of Fine Arts / SZÉKELY LEVENTE | 500PX

PEOPLE The population consists overwhelmingly of Southern Slavs, people of essentially the same ethno-linguistic stock albeit differentiating their identities according to religion: Bosniak (the low-key Muslim majority), Serb (Orthodox) and Croat (Catholic). Despite the intense intercommunal conflict of the early 1990s, Sarajevo is a city that prides itself longer-term as a place of multicultural understanding, a ‘Jerusalem’ of Central Europe. Mosques, synagogues and cathedrals both Catholic and Orthodox are all a couple of minutes’ stroll apart. BEST TIME Spring and autumn are ideal weather-wise, but while July and August can feel stiflingly hot, there is a plethora of festivals bringing life to the streets. Ski season is January and February, but avoid New Year when prices spike.

Serving coffee, Bosnian style / TIM E WHITE | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Remembering the city’s turbulent past with a war-themed tour, then exploring the polished-cobble laneways of Turkic Baščaršija and the grand Austro-Hungarian thoroughfares beyond. STRENGTHS • Baščaršija’s Ottoman heritage • Thick, rich Bosnian coffee at quaint hubble-bubble cafes • Great value characterful hostels • Viewpoint restaurants • Walking tours with siege survivors • Renewed multiculturalism • The rich antiquities and priceless Haggadah in the National Museum • Bargain skiing at Bjelašnica and Jahorina WEAKNESSES • Lack of international railway connections (apart from Zagreb) • Driving and parking difficulties in the narrow lanes of the old city • Limited vegetarian options GOLD STAR For being one of Europe’s best-value capital cities, having largely shrugged off the mantle of its 1990s siege-era sufferings. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Perfect Circle (1997) • Welcome to Sarajevo (1997) • No Man’s Land (2002) • Summer in the Golden Valley (2003) • 1395 Days Without Red (2011) • Twice Born (2012) • The Bridges of Sarajevo (2014) IMPORT

• Viennese-style cafe/cake shops with their luscious gateaux • The euro – unofficially accepted by many businesses for small purchases EXPORT • Textiles • Turkish delight • Film director Emir Kusturica • Aura cigarettes • Metalwork • Coffee pots SEE the restored City Hall from which Franz Ferdinand was returning when shot by Princip in 1914: it has been spectacularly rebuilt after being burnt during the 1990s conflict and its basement houses a gripping museum highlighting the city’s 20th-century trials and tribulations. EAT ćevapčići (grilled lozenges of minced lamb or beef) served in a semicircular loaf of spongy somun bread from street cafes along the cobbled lanes of Baščaršija. DRINK shots of rakija (distilled fruit liquor) or decanters of Hercegovinian wine at the marvelously quirky Zlanta Ribica bar. DO delve into the outwardly miserable concrete carbuncle of the Skenderija Centre to find some of Central Europe’s most thought-provoking contemporary art. WATCH the streets and bars come to life during a series of summer festivals, including the particularly full-on Sarajevo Film Festival. BUY side-handled copper pots and miniature cups so that you can recreate the uniquely Bosnian way of making coffee when you get home. AFTER DARK taste a range of the Sarajevo Brewery’s beers at their cavernous bar, serenaded by live Balkan music.

URBAN TALE During the 1990s siege, much of Sarajevo’s heritage of six centuries was pounded into rubble and its only access to the outside world was via a hand-dug 800m tunnel beneath the airport runway. Around 25m of the original tunnel has been preserved and forms the highlight of the unmissable Tunnel Museum. The shell-pounded house that hid the tunnel’s entrance holds a small museum with an audio guide that comes as an app on your smart phone. A loop of video footage graphically recalls the experience of siege life.

The spire of Theotokos Serbian Orthodox Church rises above the red roofs of Sarajevo / PETE SEAWARD | LONELY PLANET

Savannah // USA Rich in heritage, creativity, charm and Southern hospitality, Savannah boasts one of the largest historic districts in the United States and features thousands of beautiful buildings, including classic examples of Federal, Italianate and Victorian architecture.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Savannah DATE OF BIRTH: 1733; as a buffer against Spanish interests in Florida ADDRESS: USA (map 2, P10) HEIGHT: 14m SIZE: 267 sq km POPULATION: 145,674 ANATOMY The city lies on the Savannah River, 29km from the Atlantic Coast amid marshland and giant oak trees laden with Spanish moss. Careful urban design, both studied and admired, makes for a beautiful, pedestrian-friendly city spread across a grid of streets and antebellum buildings encircling treefilled squares.

The Savannah Belles Ferry makes its way to the historic district waterfront / NATALIA BRATSLAVSKY | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Old school meets new in Savannah. It’s on the rise as a melting pot in its own little-city right – those Southern charms and traditions commonly associated with Savannah meld with the contributions from a surging creative class, drawn, in part, by the Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD). While scores of artists and intellectuals from around the country have brought about a small-scale cultural renaissance, Savannah is still a city steeped in proud ethnic heritage. The city’s First African Baptist Church is the oldest AfricanAmerican church in the country and served as an important stop on the Underground Railroad. Savannah is also home to the country’s only Gothicstyle synagogue and hosts a notoriously popular St Patrick’s Day parade. BEST TIME Springtime in Savannah is unmatched – from March to May, mild weather coaxes the city’s characteristic azaleas and flowering trees into bloom.

Avenue of the Oaks, Wormsloe Plantation / CHRIS MOORE - EXPLORING LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Fuelling up with a cup of fair-trade java and an organic bite at the Sentient Bean ahead of a stroll through Forsyth Park, where you can get a snap of Savannah’s iconic fountain before spending the rest of the day sauntering northward through each stately square on the way to the riverfront, where steep cobblestone stairs descend to a buzzing strip of watering holes and tasty seafood joints. STRENGTHS • Historic District • Mercer-Williams House Museum • Riverfront • The Pirate’s House • Lowcountry boil (a favourite local dish) • Cobblestone streets • City Market

• Bonaventure Cemetery • The Sea Islands • West Jones St • Great tours at all times of day and night • Telfair Academy

A horse-drawn carriage is an appropriate way to see this grand, historic city / GLOW IMAGES | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • Hurricane Alley • The sticky height of summer • Infrequent public transportation • The sulfurous stench emitted by a nearby paper mill GOLD STAR For extraordinary displays of 18th- and 19th-century architecture and a collection of impressive Victorian townhouses that coexist with hip shops and innovative eateries. STARRING ROLE IN… • Roots (1976) • The Return of Swamp Thing (1988) • Glory (1989) • Forrest Gump (1993) • Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt (film 1997) • The General’s Daughter (1998) • Forces of Nature (1998) • The Legend of Bagger Vance (2000) • The Gift (2000) • The Conspirator (2010) • The Last Song (2010) • Magic Mike XXL (2015) IMPORT • Flat whites • Army soldiers • Boerewors EXPORT • SCAD Grads • ‘Moon River’

• Johnny Mercer • Big Boi • Paula Deen • Flannery O’Connor • Conrad Aiken SEE the city, river and nearby Tybee Island from one of the replica riverboats plying the waters from River St. EAT Southern cuisine (black-eyed peas, turnips, fried chicken, sweet potatoes, green beans and rice) at Mrs Wilkes’ Dining Room. DRINK with pleasing ease – consuming alcohol outdoors and while walking in the streets is OK, unlike most other cities in the US. DO take a ride in a repurposed hearse for a midnight ghost tour of the historic district, which includes a ride to Bonaventure Cemetery in Thunderbolt. WATCH up-and-coming, SXSW Music Conference-bound musicians at the Savannah Stopover Festival. BUY antiques from countless registered dealers, or one-of-a-kind artisan wares from students at the shopSCAD gallery-boutique. AFTER DARK catch rollicking live tunes by local and regional acts of all genres at The Jinx, see a drag show at Club One, or throw back a few PBRs at the delightfully divey Pinkie Master’s.

URBAN TALE Books and films have glamorised Savannah as a surreal remnant of the old South, where tradition beds down with sweet decadence. Now most of the world knows Savannah through its roles in Forrest Gump, John Berendt’s murder-mystery travelogue Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, and the subsequent film directed by Clint Eastwood. Books such as Wise Blood by Savannah-born Flannery O’Connor, songs like ‘Moon

River’ by native-son Johnny Mercer and the hit movie The Legend of Bagger Vance have added to the city’s mythology. These days, hardly a year goes by without another film being made in Savannah with a gaggle of stars moving about incognito in the city’s bars, clubs and restaurants and dipping into the local real-estate market to buy a little piece of this garden of good and evil.

The City Market is a hub of restaurants, galleries and nightlife / HANAN ISACHAR | GETTY IMAGES

Seattle // USA Blink and it’s changed: Seattle can be that ephemeral. Welcome to a city that pushes the envelope, embraces new trends and plots a path toward the future.

VITAL STATISTICS NICKNAME: The Pacific Northwest’s Emerald City DATE OF BIRTH: 1851; when New Yorkers Arthur and David Denny led a group of settlers here ADDRESS: USA (map 2, A2) HEIGHT: 38m SIZE: 85 sq km POPULATION: 662,400 ANATOMY Seattle is sandwiched spectacularly between the snowcapped Olympic Range to the west and the Cascade volcanoes to the south and east. The city is surrounded by water with Lake Washington to the east, Puget Sound to the west, and Lake Union and the Lake Washington Ship Canal slicing through the middle. Downtown Seattle is fairly compact and contains Pike Place Market, Pioneer Sq and the Waterfront. The Space Needle is in Seattle Center, just north of downtown. Adjoining Seattle Center is the genteel, residential Queen Anne area. The U district, home to the University of Washington, is north of Lake Union. Metro Transit buses, streetcars and light rail trains blanket the metropolitan area.

Seattle skyline and the Space Needle, with its flying saucer–like observation deck / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Almost 70% of Seattle’s population are Caucasian and 80% speak English as a first language. The rest are Asian-American, African-American, Hispanic and Native American (in decreasing order). Seattleites are, in general, politically progressive. The city’s home state, Washington, is one of only two in the US (the other is Oregon) where same-sex marriage, assisted suicide and marijuana usage are all legal. BEST TIME September is arguably the best month to visit. It kicks off with Bumbershoot, Seattle’s finest music and cultural festival, but hotel prices inflate accordingly. Fortunately, the weather usually remains sunny and relatively warm until early October.

The Seattle Center Monorail enters the Museum of Pop Culture / 400TMAX | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Zipping up to the top of the Space Needle for views of mountains, water and cityscape, then grabbing an ethically-sourced micro-roasted coffee embellished with skillful latte art and taking it for a walk around the busy urban theater of Pike Place Market. STRENGTHS • Outdoor activities on tap • Discovery Park • Pike Place Market • Pioneer Sq Historical District • The Waterfront • Dim sum in the International District • High salaries for tech types • Profusion of vegan and vegetarian restaurants • Rapidly expanding public transportation system • A dozen self-contained and independently-minded neighbourhoods • Quirky public sculpture in Fremont • Pacific Northwest Ballet • The Space Needle • Brewpubs • A coffee bar on every block • Skiing at nearby Stevens Pass WEAKNESSES • Rain – and lots of it • Traffic snarls • Lack of cheap hotels in downtown • Climbing house prices • Eternal roadworks in South Lake Union GOLD STAR For coffee – Starbucks along with dozens of other equally good coffee bars, chain-lets and indie-roasters.

STARRING ROLE IN… • Say Anything (1989) • Singles (1992) • Sleepless in Seattle (1993) • Grey’s Anatomy (TV series 2005–) • Snow Falling on Cedars by David Guterson IMPORT • Software engineers • Gary Larson, creator of Far Side • Late 19th-century gold prospectors • Queen Anne architecture EXPORT • Starbucks • Nirvana • Bill Gates, Paul Allen and Microsoft • Amazon.com • Boeing • Adobe • Biotechnology • Timber • Jimi Hendrix • Grunge (in the ’80s and ’90s) • Macklemore • Dale Chihuly SEE market traders playing catch with fish at Pike Place Market. EAT locally reared everything at Seattle’s best farm-to-table restaurant, Sitka & Spruce. DRINK seasonal beers at the spacious Optimism Brewing Co on Capitol Hill. DO take advantage of all that water and try stand-up paddle-boarding on

Lake Washington. Watch the best in local music and culture at the Bumbershoot Festival over Labor Day weekend. BUY weird and wonderful music from the encyclopedic collection at Bop Street Records. AFTER DARK hit the brewpubs, dives and cocktail bars of Seattle’s favorite boozing neighborhood, Ballard.

URBAN TALE It’s hard to envisage today, but Pioneer Sq’s streets were originally 4 to 9m (12 to 30ft) lower than their present levels. After the 1889 Seattle fire, city planners decided to raise the street level in order to solve longstanding problems with tidal flooding. Hence, the post-fire buildings were constructed with an extra ground floor in anticipation of the impending, but lengthy, regrade. This resulting spooky underground world of abandoned cellars and sidewalks lay forgotten for decades, but was rediscovered and opened to tourists in the 1960s by local historian, Bill Speidel. The tours are still popular today.

Historic aircraft on display inside the Museum of Flight / STUART WESTMORLAND | GETTY IMAGES

Seoul // South Korea Fashion- and tech-forward but also deeply traditional, Seoul is the 600-yearold capital of a world-class economic powerhouse going from strength to strength.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Seoul DATE OF BIRTH: 57 BC; during the Three Kingdoms period, when it was ruled by the Baekje and Silla dynasties ADDRESS: South Korea (map 6, P2) HEIGHT: 87m SIZE: 605 sq km POPULATION: 10.7 million ANATOMY Bisected by the Hangang River, Seoul is surrounded by eight mountain peaks. One of the main historical, sightseeing, shopping and accommodation areas is around Myeongdong, with Namsan and the N Seoul Tower forming the southern perimeter. The nightlife district of Itaewon is on the south side of Namsan. Directly west is Hongdae, Seoul’s arty student enclave. South is where the Hangang River winds its way through the city. The Gangnam district, south of the river, is where the rich and wannabe fashionistas congregate. To the east is Jamsil, home to the giant COEX Mall, Lotte World and Olympic Park. Seoul’s subway system is modern, fast, frequent, clean, safe and cheap. There are also buses around the city.

Traditional Korean style architecture at Bukchon Hanok Village / VINCENT ST. THOMAS | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Birth rates are low, the population is getting older and there are fewer young women than men. Korea is ethnically and linguistically homogeneous and, although the number of foreigners visiting and working in Seoul is increasing, expats still comprise a very small percentage of the population. Seoul has over 40 top universities, and the Koreans’ inexhaustible obsession with education and the social status it brings is nowhere more prevalent than here. BEST TIME The best times are undoubtedly spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October). Avoid winter (December to February) when things become bitterly cold and miserable. Likewise try to miss the steamy, rainy mid-summers (July).

Dancers perform at the Jongmyo Daeje, honouring late kings and queens / JUNG YEON-JE | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Exploring the royal palaces, National Museum of Korea and War Memorial Museum for an introduction to Seoul’s complex and tragic history and traditional culture, then sipping on ginseng tea in a tiny stall at Dongdaemun Market before adding the finishing touches to your wardrobe, and then climbing Inwangsan to the shamanist shrine at dusk to contemplate the lights of the city unfolding before you. STRENGTHS • Very safe and friendly; welcoming locals • Fascinating traditional culture • High standard of living and clean streets • Buzzing and modern Asian city • Traditional local alcohol • Contemporary art scene • Traditional arts and architecture • Green spaces, hiking trails, bicycle paths • Memorable daytrips to the DMZ on the North Korean border WEAKNESSES • Summer monsoon season; dark cold winter • Reckless drivers with little regard for pedestrians • Pricey compared to most of Asia GOLD STAR For divine cuisine, from top chefs crafting neo-Korean delights to the commonest of street snacks. STARRING ROLE IN… • Eunuch (1968) • Nowhere to Hide (1999) • Chihwasun (2002) • Taegukgi (2003)

• The President’s Last Bang (2005) • Sunday Seoul (2005) • Train to Busan (2016) IMPORT • Craft beer • Modern urban design • University students EXPORT • Taekwondo • K-Pop and Gangnam Style • Hyundai and Daewoo cars • Korean food • Soju, a traditional alcohol • Samsung, LG and other electronics SEE the palaces of Gyeongbokgung and Deoksugung to soak up the atmosphere of the feudal royal court. EAT temple food and take part in a tea ceremony with Buddhist monks at Jogyesa or Bongeunsa. DRINK makgeolli, a milky white rice wine made from a 600-year- old recipe. DO a hike around the huge fortresses of Bukhansanseong and Namhansanseong that were built in the forest-covered mountains around Seoul. WATCH the royal ancestral rites festival at Jongmyo, as well as other historical re-enactments that reveal an Asian society with its own very distinctive style. BUY art and design accessories from Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park. AFTER DARK head to one of Gangnam’s mega-clubs for a night of

electronic dance music.

URBAN TALE On the edge of Seoul, almost nudged from memory, is an abandoned amusement park that is eerie and wondrous. Unbolt the gate, walk in and expect goosebumps when you see the rides laid out before you like a toy town, ready to be explored. There are no queues, the place is yours; Yongma Land is deathly quiet and smells of wild grass. Sit on a creaky carousel horse, look up at the tarpaulin riddled with holes and sunlight leaking in, and you might feel like you are in a post-apocalyptic world. No wonder so many K-pop music videos have been filmed here.

The Koi staircase in Ihwa Maeul, known for its murals and street art / T.DALLAS | SHUTTERSTOCK

Seville // Spain The capital of Spain’s southernmost region, Seville encapsulates what Andalucía is famed for: fun, colour, style, sun, partying, flamenco, wine, good food… Don’t rush it!

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Seville DATE OF BIRTH: 7th century BC or earlier; it became a significant Roman trading port in the 2nd century BC ADDRESS: Spain (map 4, D18) HEIGHT: 9m SIZE: 60 sq km POPULATION: 693,000 ANATOMY Spain’s fourth-largest city, Seville straddles the Río Guadalquivir, with most places of interest on the east side of the river. The central area, a tangle of narrow, twisting old streets and small squares, is walkable. The two major monuments, the cathedral and the Alcázar, are towards the southern end of the central area. The true centre of the city, the area known as El Centro, is a little further north, around Plaza de San Francisco and Plaza Salvador.

Modern Metropol Parasol houses a market, museum, restaurant and concert space / MARGARET STEPEIN | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Seville’s citizens are quite homogeneously Andalucian, with a Christian Spanish and Moorish heritage. The city has probably the largest concentration of Roma people in Spain. Non-Spaniards number less than 5% of the population. Spanish is of course the main language but many people working in tourism speak good or passable English. BEST TIME Spring and early summer (April to June) and autumn (September and October) have ideal weather – not cold, not too hot. Spring is also the time of Seville’s two great festivals: the solemn penitential processions of Semana Santa (Easter Week) followed by the joyful partying of the Feria de Abril (April Fair).

Las Teresas is a classic tapas bar in Barrio de Santa Cruz / MARGARET STEPEIN | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Visiting the massive cathedral then wandering through the quaint Barrio de Santa Cruz neighbourhood and enjoying lunch at one of its varied eateries – then in the afternoon heading up to El Centro to see the Siglo de Oro art at the Museo de Bellas Artes before crossing the Guadalquivir for a riverside sundowner on Calle del Betis as a preliminary to a relaxed evening touring a few of El Centro’s fine tapas bars. STRENGTHS • The mix of Moorish and Christian Spanish architecture, both monumental and minor-scale • Cute plazas and lanes decked out with orange trees and flowery balconies • Superb tapas – contemporary concoctions or simply traditional • Street life on balmy evenings • Flamenco • Plaza de España • Sevici bike-sharing scheme

The Alcázar’s Courtyard of the Maidens / JAVARMAN3 | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • Parking • High accommodation prices (by Spanish standards), and they rise even higher during the spring festivals • Inferno-like temperatures in July and August GOLD STAR For the atmosphere among the relaxed, fun-loving crowds on a warm spring night: the Spanish word alegre (happy, joyful) could have been coined to describe it. STARRING ROLE IN… • Lawrence of Arabia (1962) • Star Wars Episode II: Attack of the Clones (2002) • Kingdom of Heaven (2005) • Game of Thrones (5th, 6th and 7th seasons, 2014–) • Ocho apellidos vascos (Eight Basque Surnames; 2014)

• Carmen by Georges Bizet • The Barber of Seville by Gioachino Rossini • Digital Fortress by Dan Brown • Novelas Ejemplares (Exemplary Novels) by Miguel de Cervantes • The Blind Man of Seville by Robert Wilson IMPORT 19th-century romantics New world bullion, 1503-1717 EXPORT • Oranges • Cruzcampo beer • Don Juan • Flamenco • Velázquez • Murillo • Zurbarán • Felipe González • Sevillana songs and dance SEE the gorgeous Alcázar, Seville’s rambling Moorish/Christian palacefortress. EAT delicious fusion tapas at La Brunilda. DRINK craft beer at Triana’s Cervezas Taifa, for a change from wine and sherry. DO climb La Giralda, originally the minaret of Seville’s Great Mosque, to see the view over the largest Gothic cathedral in the world. WATCH intimate and authentic nightly flamenco shows at the Casa de la Memoria. BUY charming, artistic ceramics from shops and workshops on Calle Antillano Campos in Triana.

AFTER DARK sample a few tapas bars, then see what’s happening around the jumping nightlife hub of Alameda de Hércules.

URBAN TALE All over Seville – on flags, signs, manhole covers, wrought in iron on railings or lamps, carved in stone above doorways – you’ll see the logo NO8DO. These five characters are part of Seville’s coat of arms and the 8 represents a skein of yarn – in Spanish a madeja. Put together, ‘Nomadeja- do’; sounds like ‘No me ha dejado’ which means ‘It has not left/abandoned me’. The phrase is said to have originated with the 13thcentury Castilian king Alfonso X, referring to Seville’s loyal support for him against a rebellion by his son. But Sevillians also think of it as a way of expressing their deep bond with their beloved city.

Flamenco is Seville’s signature artform / ANDREA PISTOLESI | GETTY IMAGES

Shanghai // China China’s most glamorous city wows with its sharp fashion and dazzling architecture but still manages to keep things traditional

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Shanghai NICKNAME: Pearl of the Orient; Paris of the East DATE OF BIRTH: 3900 BC; when the first settlements appeared ADDRESS: China (map 6, O4) HEIGHT: 7m SIZE: 6341 sq km POPULATION: 24.2 million ANATOMY Central Shanghai is divided into Pudong (east of the Huangpu River) and Puxi (west of the Huangpu River). Most attractions are in Puxi, including the Bund – a grandiose curve of concession-era architecture. West of the Bund is the former international settlement and one of Shanghai’s main shopping streets, Nanjing Rd. South of the Bund is the rapidly-disappearing historic city, a maze of narrow lanes being slowly knocked down in favour of modern development. Hidden in the backstreets north and south of Huaihai Lu (Shanghai’s premier shopping street) is the former French Concession, with a major collection of international restaurants and bars. Western Shanghai is dominated by Hongqiao, a hotel/conference centre/office zone with the expat area of Gubei further out. Ultra-modern Pudong, meanwhile, is a ‘special economic’ zone of banks, skyscrapers and new residential complexes. Walking and catching buses can be a nightmare, but the metro and light railway system work like a dream.

Early morning t’ai chi on the Bund / CLAUDIO CASSARO/SIME | 4CORNERS

PEOPLE Shanghai has grown faster than any other world city and now has four times the number of people per sq km living here than in New York. This is largely because of people from all over China moving here. There are 150,000 officially registered foreign residents, although the true number is probably more, mostly Japanese, Americans and Koreans. The city’s population is also ageing fast. BEST TIME The peak season to visit Shanghai is in the northern hemisphere summer; though it can get very hot and humid with the chance of some heavy rains. Spring and autumn are the best times to go when temperatures are more comfortable.

The shopper’s paradise of Nanjing Rd / RICHARD TAYLOR | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Queuing for xiălóngbaō (soup dumplings) outside Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant, weaving around the traditional shikumen-style shops at Tiánzĭfáng, then checking out contemporary art at hip M50, shooting up skyscrapers to take in stunning views in Pudong before chowing down on Shanghainese favourites in the French Concession. STRENGTHS • Former French Concession • The Bund • Volkswagen taxis • Incredible selection of skyscrapers • Neon signs of Nanjing Rd • Nòngtángs (back-alley communities) • Yuyuan Gardens and Bazaar • Huzhou Pagoda • Thriving contemporary arts scene

A street food chef at work / MARIO MACHADO | 500PX

WEAKNESSES • Pollution • Overcrowded peak-hour public transport • Spitting • Smoking in restaurants • Demolition of shikumen buildings GOLD STAR For architecture – from the whopping Shanghai Tower to the disco-ball of the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, there’s plenty to dazzle. STARRING ROLE IN… • Shanghai Express (1932) • Empire of the Sun (1986) • The Red Violin (1998) • Purple Butterfly (2003) • The Blue Lotus by Hergé

• When We Were Orphans by Kazuo Ishiguro IMPORT Author Emily Hahn Baiwēi (Budweiser) Formula One Grand Prix EXPORT • Clothing and textiles • Singer and actress Zhou Xuan • Snakehead gangsters • Ruan Lingyu, ‘China’s Garbo’ of the 1930s • Opera singer Liao Changyong • Author JG Ballard SEE the colossal 632m-high Shanghai Tower after a stroll along the ritzy Bund. EAT the authentically Uigher dapánjī (fried chicken and potatoes) for a taste of China’s far northwest provinces. DRINK superb cocktails in the French Concession’s hidden away speakeasy bar, Speak Low. DO partake of a Chinese martial-arts course at Longwu International Kung Fu Centre. WATCH the gymnastic genius of the Shanghai Acrobatics Troupe performing most nights at Shanghai Centre Theatre. BUY a qipao (cheongsam) custom-tailored at Dongjiadu Cloth Market. AFTER DARK Head to Yùyīntáng, the city’s best live house (live music venue) to catch a local indie band belt it out.

URBAN TALE

The godfather of Shanghai’s underworld, which covertly ran the city during the 1930s, was Du Yuesheng, or ‘Big-Eared’ Du. By 1927 he led the Green Gang, controlling the city’s prostitution, drug-running and protection rackets. His favourite scheme was to kidnap the wealthy and then negotiate their release, pocketing half the ransom as commission. In 1931 – after playing a part in Chiang Kaishek’s anti-Communist massacre – he was elected as unofficial mayor until the Japanese invasion, when he fled to Chongqing, and then Hong Kong, where he died a billionaire in 1951.

Shikumen houses in the French Concession / TIM DRAPER | GETTY IMAGES

Siena // Italy Gothic architecture, medieval city walls, the charmingly winding streets and that famous piazza (Il Campo) make Siena a Tuscan joy.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Siena DATE OF BIRTH: 1st century BC; when the Romans established a military settlement here called Sena Julia ADDRESS: Italy (map 4, M14) HEIGHT: 322m SIZE: 118 sq km POPULATION: 54,100 ANATOMY At the heart of Siena is the large sloping Piazza del Campo, from which fan out the streets of the medieval town. Two of its main streets reveal Siena’s history as a banking town – Banchi di Sopra and Banchi di Sotto. They form part of the Via Francigena pilgrims’ route to Rome. Via di Città, another key thoroughfare, joins the other two behind Piazza del Campo. The town is enclosed by its original walls, punctured by eight city gates. There are no cars or motorbikes in Siena’s city centre, which makes wandering through the streets a pleasure.

The Tuscan colours of Siena / MARTINM303 | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Siena is one of Tuscany’s main university towns, and the Sienese are a welleducated, hard-working bunch. Family is very important to them and small family-run businesses are common. Loyal to their neighbourhood, they are more likely to fly the flag of their contrada (town district) than the Italian colours. They are gastronomes and very proud of Tuscan wine and cuisine. Something like 98% of the population are Roman Catholic. BEST TIME Spring (April, May and June) and fall (September, October and November) have lovely weather and smallish crowds. The colourful pageants and frenetic horse races of the Il Palio on July 2 and August 16 are fantastic for immersing yourself in local culture, but be warned: the town is jam-packed and rates skyrocket in the weeks around the events.

Horses and jockeys dash around Piazza del Campo in the famous Il Palio / MROHANA | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Tucking into a dish of pici (thick Sienese spaghetti) in a classic, ginghamtablecloth osteria (simple, reasonably priced eatery) before getting lost in the snaking streets of the town and miraculously ending up at a recognisable landmark, the Palazzo Communale. STRENGTHS • Sienese-Gothic architecture, eg, Il Campo, Palazzo Communale, the cathedral • Il Palio (Siena’s famous horse race) • The Sienese school of painting • First European city to ban motorised traffic in its centre • Monte dei Paschi di Siena bank, a big employer in Siena • Slow Food movement • Marble font by Jacopo della Quercia in the Battistero (baptistry) • Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana

• Sienese art in the Pinacoteca Nazionale • Frescoes depicting Santa Caterina’s life in the Chiesa di San Domenico • Surrounding Tuscan countryside • Cantuccini and ricciarelli (almond-based biscuits) WEAKNESSES • Accommodation is elusive in summer, particularly during Il Palio • It’s easy to get lost in the medieval town GOLD STAR For Gothic architecture. Siena is effectively a giant, open-air museum of Italy before the Renaissance, its spiritual and secular medieval monuments still sitting in harmony, many filled with collections of Sienese art. STARRING ROLE IN… • •Prince of Foxes (1949) • The English Patient (1996) • Stealing Beauty (1996) • Quantum of Solace (2008) • Letters to Juliet (2010) IMPORT • Students attending the Università per Stranieri di Siena • Visitors on a tour of Tuscany EXPORT • Santa Caterina (one of Italy’s most famous saints) • Sienese school of painting: Guido da Siena, Duccio di Buoninsegna, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Simone Martini, Taddeo di Bartolo • Embroidery • Brunello di Montalcino (wine) • Panforte (a rich fruit cake that was originally cooked for the crusaders) • Textiles • Leather goods • Porcini mushrooms

SEE the marble- and mosaic-clad cathedral, one of Italy’s great Gothic churches. EAT what you fancy from the menu degustazione (a multi-course tasting menu) at Grotta Santa Caterina da Bagoga. DRINK a pricey glass of Brunello di Montalcino at a bar on Il Campo – you’re paying for the view but it’s worth it. DO a jazz course at the renowned Associazione Siena Jazz. WATCH 10 horses hauling their riders around Il Campo and see who wins the Palio (silk banner). BUY cheese, sausages and porcini mushrooms from Pizzicheria de Miccoli. AFTER DARK catch a performance in the resplendent, 16th-century Teatro dei Rinnovati.

URBAN TALE Twice a year horses and riders compete in the world’s shortest horse race, Il Palio, legendary in Italy. Each of the 10 riders represents one of the 17 contrade (not all 17 take part), and competes for the Palio (silk banner), and the glory. Each contrada has its own costume, flag and Palio museum – yes, they mean business. The riders thunder around for about 80 seconds on a dirt track, which is laid around Il Campo. Horses can win without their riders (the jockeys ride bareback), but it is a noncontact sport – so no pulling at the reins of competing horses, please!

Museo dell’Opera showcases artworks that formerly adorned the cathedral / OLIVIER CIRENDINI | GETTY IMAGES

Sighişoara // Romania Vlad the Impaler’s hometown has a chilling history, but otherwise Sighișoara is majestic: a pastel-painted old town in rural Romania.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Sighișoara DATE OF BIRTH: 1280; this is Sighișoara’s first documented mention, though the old Dacian settlement of Sandava dates to AD 100 ADDRESS: Romania (map 4, T12) HEIGHT: 250m SIZE: 14 sq km POPULATION: 28,000 ANATOMY Surrounded by the greenery of Transylvania’s Saxon Land, Sighișoara’s historic centre is enclosed by medieval walls and watchtowers, once serviced by town guilds. Gothic churches and colourful merchant houses are huddled within, all surveyed by a church-topped hill just south. Stairwells and steep roads spiral down to the lower town, which is nestled in the valley of the Târnava Mare River. Roaring main road 13 follows the curves of the river, with residential neighbourhoods (many clogged with socialist-era housing blocks) sprawling along its banks. Outside the largely pedestrianised old town, Sighișoara is a city of drivers, though a few local buses trundle between neighbourhoods.

The Gothic rooftops of Sighişoara / CRISTIAN BALATE | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE More than three-quarters of Sighișoara locals are Romanian, though some 15% of their number are part of Transylvania’s Hungarian population, with another 5% from the Roma community. While the German of Transylvania’s Saxon past is no longer spoken, you might hear a smattering of Hungarian amid the chatter in Romanian. Orthodox religion dominates (70%), and the overwhelming majority of people in Sighișoara belong to a branch of the Christian faith. BEST TIME Visitors pack the centre during July and August, especially for costumed nostalgia at the Festival of Medieval Arts and Crafts. Spring is milder and brings edgier events such as Sighişoara Blues (March) and International Vampire Film & Arts Festival (May). A PERFECT DAY Striding to the top of the Clock Tower and looking out over the merchant houses and green hills, then climbing down to Piața Cetății’s cafes for

homemade lemonade. Afterwards, browsing vampire-themed souvenirs at the foot of the Church on the Hill, rambling around the lofty churchyard, and then back to Casa Vlad Dracul for a carnivorous feast, wine and a peep into Vlad’s room… STRENGTHS • Vlad the Impaler history • Hotels in 500-year-old buildings • Guild towers and medieval walls • Handicrafts • Boutique galleries • The resplendent Clock Tower • Hearty Saxon cuisine • The verdant oak tree reserve • Vampire kitsch • Music and history festivals • Easy access to Saxon villages WEAKNESSES • Tacky souvenirs • Cheesy torture chambers • Tricky parking • Patchy restaurant service GOLD STAR For surviving through the centuries – Sighișoara is one of Europe’s oldest continually inhabited citadels. STARRING ROLE IN… • Hotel Transylvania (2012, an animated film that draws heavy inspiration from the town) • A Farewell to Fools (2013) IMPORT • Saxon craftsmen • Goth tourists

• Hungarian kings • German cuisine • Late Gothic-style churches • A taste for blues and jazz • Pizzerias galore EXPORT • Vlad the Impaler • Handicrafts and embroidery • Ironic Dracula T-shirts • Wooden spoons • Homemade fruit brandy • Seventeenth-century mystic Johannes Kelpius • Footballers Gabriel Mureșan and Ralph Gunesch SEE the jewellery box of medieval buildings glowing within the old town’s fortified walls. EAT sarmale (stuffed cabbage rolls) and suitably bloody steaks at Casa Vlad Dracul, right beneath the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler. DRINK ţuică, Romania’s notorious firewater, at one of the lively cafes on Piaţa Hermann Oberth. DO climb the 176 steps of the Scholars’ Stairway to the Church on the Hill, before exploring the eerie, timeworn cemetery. WATCH scary movies at the four-day International Vampire Film & Arts Festival in May. BUY hand-crafted wooden spoons, each one engraved with a Transylvanian legend, from Arts & Crafts. AFTER DARK clink glasses of red wine at the terrace bars spilling onto Piața Cetății.

URBAN TALE Sighișoara’s most famous son is best known as Vlad the Impaler, but Vlad Țepeș is a hero to many Romanians. The 15th-century prince of Wallachia grew up under Ottoman tutelage, as part of a bargain to secure his father’s loyalty. This schooled him in his enemies’ fears, allowing him to get under their skin (literally) in later life: his ghoulish stunts are credited with preventing swathes of Romania from falling under Ottoman control. While some of the more vampiric tales about Vlad are myth, he did set up forests of impaled enemies at strategic locations.

A treasure trove of an antique store / MELVYN LONGHURST | GETTY IMAGES

Singapore // Singapore Southeast Asia’s poster child for economic success, Singapore is an island city that’s a country unto itself. Here, Indian, Malay and Chinese harmonise.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Singapore NICKNAME: The Lion City DATE OF BIRTH: mid-13th century; when the region became a trading post for the Sumatran Srivijaya empire ADDRESS: Singapore (map 6, K13) HEIGHT: 10m SIZE: 718 sq km POPULATION: 5.69 million ANATOMY The Singapore River weaves through the city centre, past Robertson, Clarke and Boat to skyscraper-surrounded Marina Bay where you’ll find some of the city’s most astounding places to stay, dine and party. South of the river is the central business district and Chinatown, further north Little India and Kampung Glam, the Muslim quarter. The eastern stretch of coast hosts the airport, while the playground of Sentosa occupies a separate tiny island off southern Singapore. The island’s highpoint of Bukit Timur is a precious chunk of surviving wilderness. The west is largely industrial but does also have Jurong’s bird sanctuary. See it all on Singapore’s superb public transport network.

Living Supertree sculptures / FRASER HALL | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Predominantly Chinese (74% of the population), Singapore’s population follows many traditional customs of mainland China, including speaking Cantonese or dialect languages. Malays account for 13% of the population, bringing an Islamic influence, while ethnic Indians total 9%; many Indian families originally hailed from the south of the subcontinent. There are many other nationalities here too, as Singapore’s expat population, if you count in all foreign workers, is around 1.32 million. BEST TIME Practically on the equator, the weather in Singapore remains pretty much constantly hot and humid; try to avoid August, however, when smoke haze from the burning of fields in nearby Indonesia turns the air foul. In late January or early February, Singapore celebrates Chinese New Year with gusto – expect plenty of fireworks, dragon parades and Chinese opera on the streets of Chinatown.

Dining at Lau Pa Sat hawker centre / PETE SEAWARD | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Breakfasting on roti paratha (grilled stuffed flat bread) in Little India and grabbing a discounted sari before heading over for some serious shopping in Orchard Rd, chilling out in the Botanic Gardens, then working up an appetite by strolling around Marina Bay, admiring the amazing architecture, before feasting on excellent hawker food at Satay by the Bay. STRENGTHS • Hyper-efficient MRT (Mass Rapid Transport) • Marina Bay Architecture • Asian Civilisations Museum • Orchard Rd shopping • Hawker food at budget prices • Cable-car ride from Mt Faber to Sentosa • Club St • World-class Changi Airport • Hi-tech gadgetry at Sim Lim Sq and the Tekka Centre • Limited traffic • Little India

The towering Singapore skyline / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

WEAKNESSES • Censorship • Fines for jaywalking, eating on the MRT and chewing gum • Freezing air-con • High-priced booze GOLD STAR For Changi Airport – it has churches of every denomination, cinemas, restaurants and free Internet, plus it offers zippy public transport services straight to the city centre. STARRING ROLE IN… • 12 Storeys (1997) • Rogue Trader (1999) • 15 (2003) • Ilo Ilo (2013) • King Rat by James Clavell

• Saint Jack by Paul Theroux IMPORT • Chicken rice • Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles • Dosa (an Indian pancake stuffed with potato) • Roti paratha • Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf outlets • Satay • Water from Malaysia EXPORT • Tiger balm • Singapore Sling • Chilli crab • Self-proclaimed Makan food guru KF Seetoh • Garbage to the nearby island of Pulau Semakau • Orchids SEE space-age bio-domes, high-tech Supertrees, whimsical sculptures and a glass-enclosed mountain at Gardens by the Bay. EAT the Peranakan (Chinese-Malay fusion) dishes at National Kitchen by Violet Oon. DRINK a Singapore Sling at the Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel – a compulsory cliché. DO head up to the observation deck atop the triple-towered, cantilevered Marina Bay Sands. WATCH a dazzling traditional lion dance in front of Ngee Ann City on the lunar New Year. BUY some choice items from a well-edited selection of books and eclectic jumble of knick-knacks at BooksActually in hipster ‘hood Tiong Bahru.

AFTER DARK take in a show at the architecturally dazzling Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay.

URBAN TALE The laws are the quirkiest part of Singapore – for example you can be fined for eating on the MRT or feeding pigeons. However, there are good reasons behind some of the laws. Chewing gum was reputedly banned after an accident involving the doors of the MRT being wedged open using a piece of gum. Spitting and littering have always been cracked down on, but as a response to SARS the city took public hygiene to a new level, with fines, public education and a group of volunteers who regularly patrol public toilets, awarding prizes for the cleanest.

Javanese art at the Asian Civilisations Museum / SAIKO3P | SHUTTERSTOCK

Sofia // Bulgaria Onion-domed churches, Roman ruins, museums, communist monuments and fizzing nightlife are all scattered around Bulgaria’s busy capital.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Sofia DATE OF BIRTH: AD 29; when the Romans founded Ulpia Serdica ADDRESS: Bulgaria (map 4, S15) HEIGHT: 550m SIZE: 492 sq km POPULATION: 1.31 million ANATOMY Pl Sveta Nedelya, home to the church of the same name, is at the heart of the city. North of here, bul Maria Luisa passes the Central Hali Shopping Centre and the Banya Bashi Mosque on the way to the main train and bus stations. To the south, Sofia’s main shopping street, bul Vitosha, points the way to the National Palace of Culture (NDK) and Yuzhen Park. Slightly east of the centre are pl Nezavisimost (aka the Largo) and bul Tsar Osvoboditel, overlooked by the former royal palace. Bul Tsar Osvoboditel continues past pl Narodno Sabranie and the Parliament building towards Borisova Gradina Park. Various forms of public transport, including a great underground metro, will get you where you want to go.

Many-domed Aleksander Nevski Memorial Church, a symbol of Sofia / MARIYAN TASHEV | 500PX

PEOPLE Almost one-fifth of Bulgaria’s seven-million-strong population live in Sofia, many of them drawn from other Bulgarian cities for jobs in the numerous international companies with offices here. The city’s make-up is largely Bulgarian, with the most significant minorities being Turkish (1%) and Roma (1.5%) people – who form more significant proportions in suburbs outside the city. More than two-thirds of Sofia’s population is Orthodox Christian, and worship is interwoven into modern life: expect to see couples lighting candles in gold-domed churches before they head out to the movies. BEST TIME The northern hemisphere spring and autumn shoulder seasons have the best weather and events. There’s enough sunshine for outdoor drinking (without high summer’s oppressive heat), and spring is when the town plays host to its main film festival and Sofia Music Week.

Ceremonial changing of the Guard of Honor at the President’s Building / -LVINST- | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Sipping coffee alfresco in the City Garden before marvelling at the Ancient Serdica ruins, then wandering over to the mighty domes of Aleksander Nevski Church, and taking in a show at the NDK. STRENGTHS • Beautiful Aleksander Nevski Memorial Church • The Ancient Serdica Complex, with Roman streets, bathhouses and a basilica • National Gallery Quadrat 500 • Archaeological Museum – a real treasure-trove • Enormous Borisova Gradina Park • Cosmopolitan dining scene • Sofia History Museum • Ethnographic Museum • The changing of the guard at the President’s Building

• Skiing on Mt Vitosha • The remarkable murals of Boyana Church • The five gold domes of St Nikolai Russian church • The sci-fi National Palace of Culture (NDK) • Monument to the Soviet Army WEAKNESSES • Aggressive drivers and traffic • Potholed pavements • Toxic emissions from rather decrepit vehicles • Pickpockets on the metro GOLD STAR For churches – stunning ecclesiastical domes are ubiquitous in this city. STARRING ROLE IN… • Mila from Mars (2003) • The Other Possible Life of Ours (2004) • You’re So Pretty, My Dear (2004) IMPORT • International artists for concerts at the NDK and summer music festivals • Slow food and vegetarianism • Varna-born composer Dobri Hristov • Italian flavour – pizza and gelato are everywhere EXPORT • Icon paintings • Writer Ivan Vazov • Artist Ivan Moudov • Tennis star Magdalena Maleeva • Artist Vladimir Dimitrov SEE the elaborate interior of Aleksander Nevski Memorial Church (the symbol of Sofia) and the religious icons in its crypt.

EAT homespun Bulgarian and international cuisine at Made in Home restaurant. DRINK Bulgarian firewater at Raketa Rakia, a hip bar with wry nods to Communist-style decor. DO a spot of hiking or skiing on the slopes of Mt Vitosha. WATCH the best of Bulgaria’s warblers at the National Opera House. BUY books on Bulgarian culture and Bulgarian novels at the Open-Air Book Market on pl Slaveikov. AFTER DARK join the party in Studentski grad, south of the city, crammed with bars and clubs.

URBAN TALE Sofia’s most staggering set of Roman ruins was discovered entirely by accident. Though archaeologists had long wondered how much of ancient Serdica might be buried under the modern city’s streets, it took eager bulldozers – clearing room to build hotels, offices and the metro – to find the wealth of ruins that lay beneath: an early Christian basilica, half a dozen Roman streets and bathhouses traced back as early as the 4th century. The complex extends across 9000 sq m, and mosaics, ancient columns and walls can now be explored below street level.

The Roman ruins of the Ancient Serdica Complex are protected under glass / KSENIA27 | GETTY IMAGES

Split // Croatia A sun-splashed sense of fun attracts travellers to Split, and ancient splendour reels them in: grand history reverberates through this city.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Split DATE OF BIRTH: AD 305; with the foundation of Diocletian’s Palace, but the Greek colony Aspálathos was here from the 4th century BC ADDRESS: Croatia (map 4, P14) HEIGHT: 10m SIZE: 79 sq km POPULATION: 178,000 ANATOMY Occupying a stubby peninsula that juts into the Adriatic Sea, Split’s core attraction is its enchanting Old Town, a lattice of narrow lanes stacked towards a cove. There’s an unmistakable holiday riviera ambience: a palmfringed boulevard runs along the seafront, and yachts bob in the water. Outside the Old Town, Split is speckled with parks (the largest being westerly Marjan Forest Park). Spreading across the rugged peninsula, timetrapped houses morph into less-than-charming housing blocks, with major roads linking the city’s east to Croatia’s main highways. As you’d expect of a tourist magnet, transport links are good: bus routes thread the city, a busy train station lies south of the Old Town, and ferries from Split ply Croatia’s islands and the Italian coast.

Picturesque Split seen from the cathedral campanile / JOSE MARIA CUELLAR | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The overwhelming majority of Split locals (Splićani) are Croatian. Those descended from venerable Split lineage dub themselves Fetivi Splićani (true Split natives). A significant proportion of locals are from elsewhere in Dalmatia, but a smattering of Serbian, Bosnian and other European nationalities form the most significant minorities. Most locals are Roman Catholic, with Orthodox believers making up a small minority. Split is a multilingual place: more than three-quarters of inhabitants speak a second language (usually English, Italian or German). As everywhere in Croatia, Split’s population is shrinking. BEST TIME Though the summer attracts large crowds, it can be hard to resist joining them: July brings the Ultra Europe and Split Summer festivals, followed by Roman-themed Days of Diocletian (late August/early September). To take the edge off the crowds and enjoy milder weather, aim to visit in either June

or September. A PERFECT DAY Browsing fresh fruit and veg at the Pazar (market) before sidling between echoing lanes and chambers at 4th-century Diocletian’s Palace. After cafehopping and window-shopping the Old Town, people-watching at Peristil before securing a table at a water-facing restaurant such as F de mar. STRENGTHS • Unesco-listed Diocletian’s Palace • Seafood • Island-hopping • Clear waters for snorkelling • Festivals • Temples and fortresses • Seaside nightlife • Rock-climbing terrain • Pine-scented Marjan Forest Park • Hikes to the seven historic Kaštela villages • St Jerome Caves • Nearby Klis, a Game of Thrones filming location WEAKNESSES • Summer overcrowding • Slow bar service • Strip clubs and associated tourist scams GOLD STAR For uniting the ancient and modern – daily life continues to unfold within Roman-era Diocletian’s Palace. STARRING ROLE IN… • A Wonderful Night in Split (2004) • Game of Thrones (TV series 2011–) • Apocryphal Tales by Karel Čapek

IMPORT • Roman emperors • Aqueducts • Seabound invaders and pirates • Ferries from Italy • Yachts • Sephardic Jewish culture • American-style fast food • Italian cuisine EXPORT • Dalmatian ham (from the region, not the dog) • Picigin, a ball game for sandy beaches with shallow waters • Cravats • Croatian literary giant Marko Marulić • Olive oil • Artist Emanuel Vidović • Football heroes Hajduk Split • The Split SeaWolves, Croatia’s only American football team SEE the maze-like Roman complex Diocletian’s Palace, a former fortress and royal residence now harbouring bars and homes across its 38,700 sq m. EAT flaky soparnik, a local pastry stuffed with chard, parsley and olive oil, available at countless bakeries around town. DRINK a glass of local Maraština wine at Paradox, accompanied by salty cheese from Pag Island. DO rub the toe of Gregorius of Nin for luck. A huge statue of the medieval bishop, a champion of Croatian language and culture, stands by the Golden Gate; his toe has been rubbed smooth. WATCH an impressive roll-call of international DJs and electronica at Ultra Europe festival. BUY neckties, a Croatian invention (‘cravat’ may even come from the word

‘Croat’). Croata sells silky ones, some emblazoned with ancient Glagolitic lettering. AFTER DARK sashay over to Bačvice for beach bars, rock venues and house music.

URBAN TALE Split has a reputation for exhibiting art from ancient to avant-garde, but no collection is more eccentric than the city’s display of 500 stuffed frogs. Hungarian taxidermist Ferenc Mere is the originator of these amphibian tableaux, in which frogs assume human poses (schoolchildren, woodworkers, basketball players). Hop over to Froggyland to see for yourself.

The cobbled streets and stone houses of the Old Town / DAVID CLAPP | GETTY IMAGES

St Petersburg // Russia Hands down Russia’s most beguiling city, St Petersburg has been relentlessly honed over three centuries to become one of Europe’s most breathtaking urban centres.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: St Petersburg NICKNAME: The Northern Capital DATE OF BIRTH: 1703; when Peter the Great founded the city as Russia’s ‘Window on Europe’ ADDRESS: Russia (map 4, W2) HEIGHT: 4m SIZE: 600 sq km POPULATION: 4.7 million ANATOMY Laid out over 44 islands on the delta of the wide Neva River, St Petersburg is a city of water (and ice for several months of the year). People zip under the rivers and canals on the super-efficient metro, and slightly less efficiently over them by bus, car, tram and trolleybus. The city centre is focused on Palace Sq and the Winter Palace, as well as the vast central avenue, Nevsky Prospekt, which stretches for several kilometres through the city.

Dancers of the Mariinsky Ballet perform at the Bolshoi Theatre / SERGEI BOBYLEV | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The very homogeneous local population is almost entirely Russian, although there are Caucasian, Central Asian and Ukrainian minorities. There’s also a large foreign community living and working in the city. The Northern Capital is a city of culture and locals spend much of their free time enjoying the stellar artistic entertainment on offer – from ballet and opera at the Mariinsky Theatre to drama at the Maly Theatre and exhibitions at the Hermitage and Russian Museum. BEST TIME St Petersburg comes alive during the ‘white nights’, the period from late May to early July when, due to the city’s northern latitude, the sun never truly sets and the sky just goes a sort of whitish-grey until the sun rises again. This is a time of celebration and hedonism for many – though it’s also the most popular time to visit and hotel prices rise. The rest of the summer, until late

September, tends to be very pleasant and warm but with fewer crowds. The winter months, generally starting in late October and lasting until April, are cold and wet, but the city also looks extraordinarily beautiful covered in snow.

The gloriously decorated Church on the Spilled Blood / ROMAN SULLA | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Beginning the day with a stroll down Nevsky Prospekt from Ploshchad Vosstaniya, crossing the lovely Fontaka, stopping to admire the Church on the Spilled Blood, and ending up at the dazzling ensemble of Palace Sq, the Winter Palace and the General Staff Building. Wandering along the embankment to the Summer Garden and then back along the Moyka River to St Isaac’s Cathedral and Yusupov, stopping for a rustic lunch en route. Then it’s dinner at the gorgeous Teplo and on to cocktails at the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe. STRENGTHS • The city never sleeps in the summer months • The metro is super-fast and rather incredible looking • Despite the stereotypes about Russia, food in St Petersburg is excellent

Interior of the central dome of the sumptious St Isaac’s Cathedral / ANTONZZZ | SHUTTERSTOCK

WEAKNESSES • Beyond the metro, which doesn’t cover much of the city centre, public transport is complicated • The city remains in desperate need of renovation and preservation • The Russian alphabet can make finding things a challenge for visitors, and few people can speak English GOLD STAR For the view downriver from the Troitsky Most: the Winter Palace to one side, the magnificent Peter and Paul Fortress to the other and the Strelka of Vasilevsky Island straight ahead make an unforgettable panorama of 18thcentury architectural brilliance. STARRING ROLE IN… October (1928) Golden Eye (1995) Brother (1997) Russian Ark (2002) IMPORT • BMWs • Foreign students learning ‘pure’ Russian • Fruit and vegetables from the Caucasus • Italian and French fashion EXPORT • Ballerinas • Fur • Caviar • Vodka • Baltika Beer • Dostoevsky SEE the mind-blowing art collections of the Hermitage and the Russian Museum.

EAT gourmet Russian food at Mechta Molokhovets. DRINK one of dozens of rare vodkas at the Vodka Museum. DO take a banya (wet steam bath) for the ultimate Russian experience. WATCH world-class ballet and opera at the Mariinsky Theatre. BUY the inevitable Russian nesting dolls for your friends. AFTER DARK find your bliss on the dancefloor at Tantsploshchadka.

URBAN TALE One of St Petersburg’s most famous bridges, the Anichkov Most, which crosses the Fontanka River on Nevsky Prospekt, is the subject of one of the city’s most loved stories. The bridge is embellished on all four corners by elaborate and dramatic statues of rearing horses. A close look at the southwestern horse’s genitals will reveal that they’re in the shape of a man’s face. Here the story splits – one version has it that the face is that of the man who cuckolded the artist, while another claims that the features are those of one Napoleon Bonaparte.

Carriages await before the Winter Palace / BRIAN KINNEY | SHUTTERSTOCK

Stockholm // Sweden Stockholm is one of the most beautiful capitals in the world, and walking around the city’s waterways and parks is a glorious way to spend a weeklong stretch of summer.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Stockholm DATE OF BIRTH: 1252; when chieftain Birger Jarl ordered a fort constructed on a strategically placed islets ADDRESS: Sweden (map 4, Q2) HEIGHT: 44m SIZE: 188 sq km POPULATION: 910,000 ANATOMY Stockholm is built on no fewer than 14 islands with a third of the capital comprising water! The bustling commercial centre (Norrmalm) is downtown Stockholm and home to Centralstation (central train station), the city’s transport hub. Just across the water from here is medieval Gamla Stan, separated by the narrow channels of Norrström near the Royal Palace, and connected by several bridges. A short hop further south brings you to the island of Södermalm; the boho-chic part of town. East of Gamla Stan is the tiny island of Skeppsholmen, and further south, Strandvägen. Continue past the berths and cross to Djurgården, a finger-shaped island topped by the Skansen museum.

A statue gazes out towards the islet of Riddarholmen in Gamla Stan / LENA GRANEFELT | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE According to the Stockholm Chamber of Commerce, Stockholm is Europe’s fastest growing city with the population expected to exceed a million by 2020. The majority of residents are native Swedes with the second largest group comprising Finns (approximately 18,000); Finnish is one of the official minority languages. The next four largest groups are made up of Iraqis, Somalis, Turks and Iranians – including many Kurds who fled Kurdistan and settled in Sweden. The majority of immigrants and second-generation immigrant residents live in northern Stockholm suburbs, such as Husby and Rinkeby. English is also widely spoken, frequently with an American accent, the latter mainly due to the large number of US programmes aired on Swedish TV. Stockholmers reflect the religious practice of Sweden as a whole with only around 10% attending regular church services. BEST TIME June to September is the peak period here with perfect weather and some

fabulous events taking place, including the exuberant Midsummer’s Eve celebrations. Some restaurants in town close in August, however, as this when Stockholmers traditionally head out for their holidays.

Preparing for fika (a coffee break) / LENA GRANEFELT | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Breakfasting on lussekatt (saffron bun) and coffee at one of the streetside cafes in Gamla Stan before joining a tour of Kungliga Slottet (the Royal Palace), crossing to Skeppsholmen and visiting the Moderna Museet. Strolling along Strömkajen and through Kungsträdgården. Enjoying a classic smorgasbord lunch then hopping on a metro to funky Södermalm to check out Fotografiska and enjoy an unparalleled view of the city from the Söder cliffs. In the evening, dining on classic cuisine at Östgötakällaren then checking out the live music at Mondo. STRENGTHS • Compact but beautiful city • 608-room Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace)

• Quality of light • Winding streets of Gamla Stan • World leader in design and architecture • Underground paintings and sculptures in more than 90 tunnelbana (subway) stations • Fika (coffee culture) • 17th-century flagship Vasa • Riddarhuset palace • Ecological consciousness • Stadshuset’s mosaic-lined Gyllene Salen (Golden Hall) • Haga Park • Skogskyrkogården – World Heritage-listed cemetery • Bohemian Södermalm • Progressive political landscape • Gay- and lesbian-friendly • Eating out in Långholmen • Heavenly cakes & pastries

Warship Vasa, housed in the Vasamuseet / ANDERS BLOMQVIST | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • A night out can be expensive • Dumbed-down media/increased commercial influence • Grim human-filing-cabinet– style buildings, courtesy of the Million Program • Kulturehuset – symbol of demolished history and soulless modern architecture GOLD STAR For Skansen – step into another time at the world’s first open-air museum, featuring around 150 traditional houses (inhabited by staff in period costume) showing how Swedes lived in prior times. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Seventh Seal (1956) • Songs from the Second Floor (2000) • Ondskan (Evil, 2003) • We Are the Best (2014) IMPORT • Jazz • Machinery • Motor vehicles • Iron and steel products • Petrol and petroleum products • Finns EXPORT • Ingmar Bergman • Swedish design • Bjorn Borg • Ericsson • ABBA • Smörgåsbord • August Strindberg • Europe (’80s pop-rock group)

• Pippi Longstocking • Britt Ekland • Henning Mankell • Greta Garbo SEE Stockholm’s waterways by boat. EAT your fill of classic husmanskost (home cooking) at Den Gyldene Freden. DRINK Staropramen at the steeped-in-history Pelikan. DO lose yourself in the winding streets of Gamla Stan. WATCH the changing of the guard at Kungliga Slottet. BUY a variety of goods (and bads) from Skansen’s market. AFTER DARK rock the boat on warship-turned-restaurant/nightclub Lady Patricia.

URBAN TALE In 1912, tortured genius August Strindberg was awarded an ‘Anti-Nobel prize’ (funded by many Swedes) as compensation for not receiving the Nobel prize for literature.

Tunnelbana line of the Stockholm metro / TONY C FRENCH | GETTY IMAGES

Swakopmund // Namibia Poised at the meeting point of the cold Atlantic and the searing Namib Desert, surreal little Swakopmund offers visitors relaxed coastal ambience, quirky (and very German) colonial charm, and adrenaline-filled action.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Swakopmund NICKNAME: Swakop DATE OF BIRTH: 1909; though permanent settlers arrived in 1892 when it became the main harbour for the German colony, prior to that it was occupied by Nama people ADDRESS: Namibia (map 1, X19) HEIGHT: 14m SIZE: 181 sq km POPULATION: 44,725 ANATOMY Swakopmund stretches north along the Atlantic coast from the mouth of the ephemeral Swakop River. A city of skyscrapers it is certainly not – its wide avenues and seaside promenades are dotted with half-timbered German buildings that date back to colonial times. Moving south to north, focal points along the waterfront include the jetty, Arnold Shad Promenade, the whiteand-red striped lighthouse and Palm Beach. There is no public transport system, but the city is small enough to explore on foot.

4WD trekking sand dunes near Sandwich Harbour / NICOLAMARGARET | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Despite making up 8% of the country’s population, Germans and Afrikaners form the majority of Swakopmund’s citizens. Together the Owambo, Nama and Damara peoples make up most of the remainder. BEST TIME With zero rainfall and moderate temperatures, July and August are perfect months for exploration in town and desert adventures on Swakopmund’s outskirts.

Swakopmund is full of charming German colonial buildings / INSADCO PHOTOGRAPHY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Starting the day by sliding into Anton Café and sipping superb coffee between bites of Kugelhopf (cake with raisins and nuts). With the caffeine buzz a buzzing, putting yourself in the capable hands of Ground Rush Adventures for a skydiving experience like no other. With your feet back on solid ground, spending the afternoon wandering through town checking out the beach, pier and colonial architecture, and then taking a well-earned dinner in the base of the city’s lighthouse at 22° South. STRENGTHS • Deserted beaches • Gemütlichkeit (a distinctively German appreciation of comfort and hospitality) • Desert exploration (on foot or quad bike) • Seaside promenades • Activites and water sports

• Half-timbered colonial German architecture • Birdwatching • Historical sites • Clean, safe and relatively hassle free • Fresh seafood and cosmopolitan culinary fare • Lively nightlife • Superb climate (25°C in the summer and 15°C in the winter) WEAKNESSES • The cold southern Atlantic is just that – cold! • No public transportation • Petty theft • Fog GOLD STAR For the amount of adventure activities on offer – sand board down the face of a massive dune, kitesurf the Atlantic rollers or leap from a plane and free fall over the stunning meeting point of the Namib and Atlantic. STARRING ROLE IN… The Prisoner, a six-part 2009 TV series starring Ian McKellen – it was based on the 1960s programme of the same name. IMPORT • Kalahari truffles • Desert explorers looking for creature comforts • German culture and architecture • Satellite tracking station • Flamingos to nearby Walvis Bay • Quad bikes • Cessna planes for scenic flights and skydiving • Shipwrecks EXPORT • Sand in places you didn’t think was possible • Adrenaline-fueled memories

• Skydiving videos • Uranium • Replenished and refuelled desert explorers SEE the living fossils that are Welwitschia mirabilis, alien-looking plants that can live up to 2000 years; the best specimens are on Welwitschia Drive east of town. EAT the highly touted Kalahari truffle – while more subtle in taste than its European cousins, it is marvellous when thinly sliced, braised in olive oil and served over a tender ostrich steak. DRINK a cold beer, with the sand between your toes at the beach bar at Tiger Reef. DO a scenic flight over Swakopmund, the surrounding coast and the mighty dunes of the Namib. WATCH lichen fields on Welwitschia Drive burst into bloom with the simple addition of a few droplets of water. BUY high-quality local art, jewellery, handbags and baskets from Cosdef Arts & Crafts Centre, a worthy project aiming to break poverty and build sustainability. AFTER DARK join the crowds at Kücki’s Pub, a Swakopmund institution that is known for its warm and congenial atmosphere.

URBAN TALE Swakopmund was the leading port for trade in German South West Africa until WWI, when South West Africa was taken over by South Africa. As the incomers already had a working port at nearby Walvis Bay, they shifted maritime operations there and allowed Swakopmund’s harbour to simply silt up. Fortuitously, it was this decision that ultimately turned the tide of Swakopmund’s future, making it a holiday haven instead of an

industrial town (a fate that met Walvis Bay instead).

Kaiserliches Bezirksgericht (State House), the Namibian president’s official summer residence / DENNIS K JOHNSON | GETTY IMAGES

Sydney // Australia Sparkling in the sunlight and revelling in the limelight, Sydney is a brash, seductive and breathtakingly attractive city set around one of the world’s most beautiful urban harbours and spread along a panoply of spectacular beaches.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Sydney NICKNAME: Sin City DATE OF BIRTH: The Cadigal people have lived here for tens of thousands of years; In 1788 the city was founded when the First Fleet landed ADDRESS: Australia (map 1, OO21) HEIGHT: 42m SIZE: 25 sq km (city), 12,400 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 205,339 (city), 5 million (metro area) ANATOMY Sydney sits on Australia’s populous east coast and is centred on Sydney Harbour. It’s a massive city in area, spreading south to the Royal National Park, north to Palm Beach and west to the foothills of the Blue Mountains. It’s a hilly city, with numerous bays and headlands, and sits atop a vast sandstone shelf. Its architecture is predominantly modern, although some sandstone gems from the 19th century remain. It is crisscrossed by a bus, train and light rail network.

The Opera House and Botanic Gardens front onto the harbour / PETE SEAWARD | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Sydney is avowedly multicultural, although before WWII most Sydneysiders were predominantly of British or Irish stock. English is the official language, although about 40% of people speak a different language (such as Arabic, Cantonese, Greek or Vietnamese) at home. Sydney’s Aboriginal population is about 1% of the total population. BEST TIME Any time is good to visit Sydney, as even winter temperatures are relatively clement. But summer (December to February) is peak season, with the best weather. The Sydney Festival, the Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras, cricket, barbecues and beer gardens conspire to keep people off the beaches at least some of the time.

A coastal path meanders between Bondi and Coogee / CATHERINE SUTHERLAND | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Starting your day with a dip at an ocean beach such as Bronte then scoffing breakfast at a waterside cafe, cruising around one of the markets such as Balmain, before late-afternoon beers on a pub’s veranda, then topping the day off by attending a performance at the Opera House. STRENGTHS • Glorious sunshine • Great coffee • One of the world’s most beautiful harbours • Beachside swimming pools • Excellent craft beer options • Mardi Gras • The Sydney Opera House • Sydney Film Festival • Sydney Harbour Bridge climb • Proliferation of coffee and juice vendors • Multiculturalism • BYO restaurants • Sydney rock oysters • Friendly locals • Hills and vantage points

A bar named after Tilly Devine, once Sydney’s most notorious brothel madam / CATHERINE SUTHERLAND | LONELY PLANET

WEAKNESSES • Ridiculous housing prices • Traffic • Early pub closing laws in the city centre • GDP-style bills at trendy eateries • Incessant phone usage • Bouncers • Narcissism • The Cahill Expressway, a controversial eyesore GOLD STAR For accessibility – Sydney understood long ago that the great outdoors should be enjoyed by as many people as possible, hence the easy access to beaches, national parks and walking paths. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Puberty Blues (1981) • Muriel’s Wedding (1994) • Mission: Impossible 2 (2000) • Lantana (2001) • Finding Nemo (2003) • The Eye of the Storm (2011) IMPORT • New Zealand sauvignon blanc • Backpackers on working-holiday visas • Collette Dinnigan • Australian Rules football • Russell Crowe • Designer footwear • Asian cuisine • Reality TV EXPORT • Nicole Kidman • Toni Collette • Sass & Bide • Ian Thorpe • Craft beer • Opals • Chefs • Marc Newson’s Lockheed Lounge • Patrick White • Thomas Keneally • Harry Kewell • Cricketers • Soap stars • Vegemite • Rising inflections • Shark nets • Blockbuster movie crews

SEE the sparkling harbour from one of the commuter ferries. EAT sublime seafood or packs-a-punch Thai in one of the many eateries of Darling Harbour. DRINK craft beer in schooners (425ml). DO the Bondi to Coogee seaside walk followed by a dip in the ocean. WATCH the sun set from the top of the Harbour Bridge after a whiteknuckle climb. BUY the best swimsuit from a local designer at a funky Paddington boutique. AFTER DARK watch movies under the stars at the annual OpenAir cinema at Mrs Macquarie’s Point.

URBAN TALE From 1930 to 1967, the word ‘eternity’ – beautifully executed in perfect copperplate by yellow chalk – appeared almost half a million times on the pavements of Sydney. It was written by Arthur Stace, an almost illiterate metho drinker who, after attending a fire-and-brimstone sermon at a Baptist church in 1930, dropped the bottle and picked up the chalk. He was inspired after hearing the words of Isaiah 57:15: ‘For thus saith the high and lofty One that inhabiteth eternity, whose name is Holy’. Arthur rose at 4am every day to record the word ‘eternity’ on the streets of Sydney. Every now and again it reappears on the city’s streets.

The Bondi Icebergs swimming pool and famous Bondi Beach / LEAH-ANNE THOMPSON | SHUTTERSTOCK

Taipei // Taiwan The commercial and cultural heart of Taiwan, Taipei is regarded by many visitors as the friendliest big city in Asia – not to mention one of the world’s great food capitals.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Taipei NICKNAME: City of Azaleas DATE OF BIRTH: Ketagalan tribes inhabited the Taipei Basin from antiquity; modern Taipei was founded by representatives of the Qing government in 1709 ADDRESS: Taiwan (map 6, O6) HEIGHT: 9m SIZE: 270 sq km POPULATION: 2.7million ANATOMY Taipei city is divided into 12 districts that are then divided into neighbourhoods. It is also divided into compass points, much like most American cities. It’s dissected at its north and south points by Chunghsiao and Pateh Rds, while its east and west grids are bisected by Chungshan Rd. Cab it, walk or take the MRT (Metropolitan Rapid Transit).

The misty skyline of Xinyi District in downtown Taipei / NH | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Forty-two percent of Taiwan’s entire population live in the Taipei area. The vast majority of Taiwanese are of Han Chinese ancestry, with 14% being immigrants who came from mainland China following the Communist takeover in 1949. Around 2% of the population is of indigenous descent; there are nine main indigenous tribes on Taiwan: Ami, Atayal, Bunun, Paiwan, Puyuma, Rukai, Saisiyat, Tsao and Yami. BEST TIME Taipei enjoys its best weather in spring, from late April to early June, and autumn, from September to November. Fireflies put on a dazzling show in April to May, and if you don’t mind the heat and humidity, July and August are particularly good times to try local tropical fruits.

Browsing the Ningxia Night Market / JON HICKS | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Starting your morning with a designer coffee complete with printed foam image in one of Taipei’s ubiquitous coffee shops, doing some shopping on chilled-out, bohemian Yongkang St, enjoying some of the world’s best soup dumplings at Din Tai Fung for lunch and, after dark, head to one of the city’s buzzing night markets to munch the night away. STRENGTHS • Friendly, egalitarian culture • Diverse and delicious dining • Vibrant gay and nightlife scene • Hip coffee culture • Lively night markets • Bohemian shopping • Temples and forts • Loads of museums and galleries

Wishes written on bamboo tubes on Pinxi Old Street / ATOSAN | LONELY PLANET

WEAKNESSES • Not cyclist-friendly • Summer typhoons GOLD STAR For the National Palace Museum, home to the world’s largest collection of Chinese artefacts – around 720,000 pieces. Around 15,000 pieces are on display at any given time and are rotated every three months. At that pace it would take years to see everything. STARRING ROLE IN… • Eat Drink Man Woman (1994) • Yi Yi (2000) • Formula 17 (2004) • Lucy (2014) IMPORT

• 7-11 • Coffee culture • Craft beer • Baseball • Glove puppets from Fujian • Traditional Korean hanbok gowns EXPORT • Computers and telecommunications • Beauty products and cosmetics • Bubble tea • Bao (steamed bun sandwiches) • Kuoshu martial art SEE the city at your feet from the 89th floor of Taipei 101, and check out the world’s largest damper (to reduce movement of the skyscraper) inside. EAT the ubiquitous Taiwanese comfort food, salty-sweet braised pork rice, or Taipei speciality oyster omelette in one of the world’s best cities for street food. DRINK true Taiwanese bubble tea and experience the unnerving and addictive blup of slurping tapioca balls up through a giant straw. DO witness traditional folk customs and see some of Taipei’s most beautiful pieces of traditional religious artwork at Xiahai City God Temple. WATCH a performance by the Contemporary Legend Theatre established by Wu Hsing-guo, famous for his adaptations of Shakespeare’s plays. BUY artisan wares (everything from designer socks to leather purses and homemade honey) at Huashan 1914 Creative Park and then take a load off in one of the former wine factory’s hip cafes. AFTER DARK buy, eat and drink to your heart’s (and stomach’s) content at the Shilin Night Market.

URBAN TALE Matsu, the Goddess of the Sea, is the predominant folk deity in Taiwan. It is said that she was a mortal originally, born during the Northern Song dynasty (AD 960–1127). She only lived 28 years but she remained pure to take on the world’s burdens, performing miracles, subduing evil spirits and averting sea disasters. Those who survived the journey to Taiwan by boat believed that Matsu was looking after them. The Guandu Temple in Taipei is the oldest Matsu temple, founded in 1661 on Mt Ling. According to legend, in 1895 three old banyan trees at the entrance of the temple suddenly died.

Rickshaws awaiting customers on a Taipei street / LOTTIE DAVIES | LONELY PLANET

Tallinn // Estonia In this petite capital, Nordic cool meets Eastern European charm. Tallinn cleverly fuses quirky modern and fairy-tale medieval elements to come up with a vibe all its own.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Tallinn NICKNAME: Reval (historic German name); Tallsinki DATE OF BIRTH: 9th century AD; when an Estonian trading settlement sprang up ADDRESS: Estonia (map 4, T2) HEIGHT: 12m SIZE: 159 sq km POPULATION: 442,000 ANATOMY On the southern shore of the Gulf of Finland, Tallinn Bay protects the city. Encircled by medieval walls and towers, the two-tiered Old Town is the city’s heart, divided into historic Upper Town on Toompea (the hill dominating Tallinn) and Lower Town, on the eastern side of Toompea. The centrepiece of the Old Town is the magnificent Raekoja plats (Town Hall Sq), where the town hall shares real estate with pastel-coloured buildings and cafe terraces. Around the Old Town is a belt of green parks following the line of the city’s old defence moat. Radiating outwards from this old core is the New Town, dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries. Outside the historic heart, trams, trolleybuses and buses can get you around.

The roofs of the Old Town from Toompea / SEANPAVONEPHOTO | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Talliners have developed a strong sense of identity since independence in 1991, when Estonia peacefully ejected the Soviets in protests that became known as the ‘Singing Revolution’. In the post-Soviet era the capital has been transformed, with a restored Old Town and a modern business district. Tallinn denizens show a taste for all things new, extending to high-tech business at the forefront of the new economy and an e-savvy, wi-fi-connected populace. The city has a sizeable ethnic Russian population (38%). BEST TIME The best weather shines from May to September, and almost all festivals are scheduled for the busy summer months – they often involve medieval-style merrymaking on the streets of the Old Town. December in Tallinn is unforgettable, with Christmas markets and a nearly 600-year-old tradition of raising a Christmas tree on the main square.

A cobbled courtyard in the atmospheric Old Town / TELIA | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Hopping off the ferry from Helsinki, breakfasting in Raekoja plats at a streetside café, strolling through the cobbled streets and medieval turrets of the Old Town, hopping on a rattling tram across town, then lunching at the romantic Gloria restaurant, which once hosted Soviet canoodlers from St Petersburg. Wandering along the docks then pausing for a mid-afternoon coffee and cake, taking dinner at the latest Thai or Nepali place, then finishing off the night with honey-brewed beer.

STRENGTHS • Medieval buildings • Vistas from Toompea • Kadriorg (a sprawling park with excellent museums) • Kumu (the Art Museum of Estonia) • Bohemian Kalamaja neighbourhood • Telliskivi Creative City • High-quality, good-value dining • Easy ferries to Helsinki • Lennusadam Seaplane Harbour maritime museum WEAKNESSES • Old Town alleyways crowded with tourists • Boozy stag groups • Cold, dark winters GOLD STAR For living history – there are serious monuments in every alleyway, and in 1997 Tallinn’s Old Town was made a Unesco World Cultural Heritage site. STARRING ROLE IN… • Darkness in Tallinn (1993) • Autumn Ball (2007) • Among the Russians by Colin Thubron • Between Each Breath by Adam Thorpe • Petty God by Kaur Kender IMPORT • Finnish day-trippers • Stag parties • NATO security and reassurance EXPORT • Software development including Skype (it was invented here) • Estonian e-residency • Digital knowhow

• Vana Tallinn (the local liqueur) • The sport of kiiking (360° swinging) SEE the sun setting over the red roofs of the Old Town from atop Toompea. EAT artfully prepared dishes showcasing Estonian produce at award-winning restaurant Ö. DRINK microbrews alongside local hipsters in the bars of the cool Telliskivi Creative City. DO what many tourists don’t – get out of the Old Town. Kadriorg and Kalamaja neighbourhoods warrant attention. WATCH an art-house film at Kino Sõprus, a magnificent Stalin-era theatre. BUY a bargain snowflake sweater at the Knit Market that sets up along the Old Town wall at Müürivahe. AFTER DARK shake it with the party people at glitzy Club Privé.

URBAN TALE One of the most photographed but least understood monuments of the city is the ornate doorway of the Brotherhood of Blackheads. Not a fraternity hell-bent on pimple-free hygiene, the brotherhood was a band of young, single merchants who had not been accepted into a larger guild. This building would have housed visiting merchants, keeping their wares and virtues safe behind the mighty door, under the protective gaze of St Mauritius, the patron saint of the brotherhood. His dark-skinned face (hence the Blackhead name) looks benignly down from above the doorway, keeping an eye on all of the footloose merchants’ visitors.

The best hot chocolate in town, at Pierre Chocolaterie / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Tbilisi // Georgia Tbilisi combines a dramatic valley setting with beautiful old architecture, a buzzing cafe, bar and entertainment scene and, not least, famous Georgian hospitality.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Tbilisi DATE OF BIRTH: At least 6000 years ago, although popular lore attributes the city’s founding to King Vakhtang Gorgasali in 500 AD ADDRESS: Georgia (map 5, K1) HEIGHT: 490m SIZE: 400 sq km POPULATION: 1.1 million ANATOMY A long, slim city built into the narrow valley of the Mtkvari River, Tbilisi is eminently manageable on foot with occasional help from its easy-to-use metro system. The west bank of the river is home to the picturesque old town, Narikala fortress and the busy main avenue, Rustaveli; on the east bank the modern (but traditional-style) Tsminda Sameba Cathedral towers above Rike Park. The eye-catching 21st-century Peace Bridge and a cable car connect Rike Park to the west side.

Narikala fortress and hot sulphur baths / SAIKO3P | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The cultural, social and economic hub of Georgia, Tbilisi has a predominantly ethnic Georgian population, with some Armenians and Azeris and a sizeable foreign expat community. All locals speak Georgian; most people over about 35 speak Russian too, while under-35s are more likely to speak English. BEST TIME The best time to visit is May to mid-October, when it’s warm, the trees are green and the city comes out on to the streets.

The Mtatsminda Pantheon of Writers and Public Figures, a necropolis for national heroes / LUIS DAFOS | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

A PERFECT DAY Riding the cable car from Rike Park up to the hilltop Narikala Fortress, then walking down to explore the twisting lanes, leafy squares, cafes and churches of the old town, followed by an excursion along Rustaveli to the Museum of Georgia, then a ride up the funicular to Mt Mtatsminda for superb panoramas and a good meal, or just coffee and cake, in the Funicular Complex. STRENGTHS • Dramatic setting with panoramic viewpoints • Packed with history and beautiful architecture • Great food, good restaurants • Georgian wine, an 8000-year tradition and part of the national culture • Good cafe, bar and nightlife scene • High safety factor, low crime rate • Parks and gardens • Good accommodation, from backpacker hostels to luxury hotels

• Museums with Georgian art and artisanry from four millennia of civilisation • Khinkali (spicy dumplings) and khachapuri (cheese pies) – savoury, filling Georgian staples • Spectacular Caucasus within easy reach

Tbilisoba, a Georgian folk festival / ANNA BOGUSH | SHUTTERSTOCK

WEAKNESSES • Chaotic bus stations • Cars without catalytic converters • Eyesore development projects • Vehicles ignoring pedestrian crossings • Dreary concrete ‘commieblock’ suburbs • Impossible to cross Rustaveli, the 1.5km-long main avenue, except by four gloomy pedestrian underpasses • Homophobic attitudes among some citizens GOLD STAR For renovation: central areas of Tbilisi have been transformed since the mid2000s from a dour post-Soviet environment to a bright, 21st-century scene with modern restaurants, cafes, hotels, parks, museums and cable cars – and a few contemporary-architecture showpieces.

STARRING ROLE IN… • Since Otar Left (2003) • Power Trip (2003) • Tbilisi-Tbilisi (2005) • 5 Days of War (2011) • The Girl King by Meg Clothier • Jaqo’s Dispossessed by Mikheil Javakhishvili • Sashenka by Simon Sebag Montefiore • Timeless by Nicholas Tchkotoua IMPORT • German cars • Cheap Chinese clothing and consumer goods • Rugby • Petrol • Gas • Cigarettes • Mobile phones • 20-somethings from the West, ex-USSR and Middle East hanging out, getting by and having fun EXPORT • German cars (re-exported to other Caucasus countries and Central Asia) • Wine • Folk dance ensembles • Mikheil Saakashvili SEE the work of Georgia’s beloved best-known artist, Pirosmani, at the National Gallery. EAT delectable ‘nouveau Georgian’ fare in a garden setting at Cafe Littera. DRINK traditional natural wine fermented in a qvevri (large amphora) as well as quality bottled wines. DO take a steaming bath in the sulphurous waters of the Abanotubani

bathhouses. WATCH one of the inspiringly original and moving puppet shows at the Gabriadze Theatre. BUY Georgian cheeses (much underrated) at Aristaeus on Pushkin St. AFTER DARK head to characterful bars like Dive Bar, Zoestan or Moulin Electrique then, if in nightclub mood, continue to Café Gallery or Mtkvarze (the latter overhanging the Mtkvari River).

URBAN TALE The legend of Tbilisi’s founding goes something like this: 5th-century east-Georgian king Vakhtang Gorgasali was out hunting one day (either for deer or pheasant, depending which version you’re hearing) and either the pheasant fell into a hot sulphur spring and was conveniently cooked for dinner, or the wounded deer fell into a hot sulphur spring and was miraculously healed, and Gorgasali decided to found his capital near the springs. Either way, the city gets its name from the hot springs (the Georgian tbili means warm), and they still lure lots of visitors today.

The modern Peace Bridge over the Mtkvari / LATITUDESTOCK/DAVID FORMAN | GETTY IMAGES

Tehran // Iran This is Iran’s dynamic, beating heart. Centuries of history can be explored in the city’s palaces, fabulous bazaar, vibrant modern architecture and excellent museums.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Tehran NICKNAME: The City of 72 Nations DATE OF BIRTH: 13th century; a village grew after the Mongols razed a nearby city ADDRESS: Iran (map 5, N5) HEIGHT: 900-1830m SIZE: 730 sq km POPULATION: 8.9 million ANATOMY Rising from near-desert in the south to the majestic, snow-capped Alborz mountains in the north, Tehran has a spectacular natural setting, with the peaks visible through the pollution haze from any part of town. The town rises nearly a kilometre in altitude from one end to the other; this change is mirrored by socioeconomic status, with boutiques and leafy boulevards in the wealthy north contrasting with the south’s poorer urban landscape. Most sights and hotels are found either side of Valiasr Ave, the principal, 17kmlong street. The Metro network is the best way to get around town.

The Azadi Tower (Borj-e Azadi), built in 1971 to commemorate the 2500th anniversary of the first Persian empire / MILOSK50 | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE As its nickname suggests, Tehran is a melting pot of Iranian and other central Asian ethnicities: a long-term pattern of immigration to the capital from other parts of the country and region has created a vibrant mixture. Alongside the majority Persians, about a quarter of Tehranis are Azeris (ethnic Azerbaijanis) from the northwest. Arabs, Kurds, Lurs, Afghans, Armenian Christians, Jews and more are all prominent communities in what has traditionally been a tolerant city. BEST TIME The best time to visit Tehran is during the two-week No Ruz (Iranian New Year) holiday from 21 March, when the usual traffic chaos is replaced by relative calm. During April and May and September to early November the weather is relatively mild. Summer is hot and can be very humid, and while winter isn’t as cold as some places, air pollution tends to be at its worst during December and January.

A PERFECT DAY Taking in the monumental bustle of the bazaar before admiring antiquities in the National Museum of Iran. Finding a traditional spot for stew at lunchtime then visiting one of Tehran’s palaces in the afternoon. In the evening hitting the far north, strolling up to the end of the city and organising a brew and a bite in the enchanting teahouses of Darband. STRENGTHS • Welcoming locals • Museums • The Tehran Bazaar • Cafe culture • Contemporary art scene • Darband teahouses • Outrageously ornate palaces • Vibrant urban buzz • Modern Metro • Skiing • Traditional restaurants WEAKNESSES • Pack-a-day pollution • Terrible traffic • Metro very crowded at peak times • Dress code for women travellers • No alcohol GOLD STAR For super-welcoming locals amid the infectious urban bustle. STARRING ROLE IN… • The White Balloon (1995) • Children of Heaven (1997) • Taste of Cherry (1997) • Persepolis (Marjane Satrapi grahic novel and 2007 film) • A Separation (2011)

• Argo (2012) • Taxi Tehran (2015) IMPORT • Coffee • Hyundai cars • Samsung phones • Alcohol for the Christian community EXPORT • Poets • Polo • Waterpipes for smoking • Oil • Ice cream • Windmills • Monotheism • Carpets • Great cinema • Wine once, now grapes and raisins • The people and pop music of Tehrangeles SEE the magnificent Golestan Palace, a monument to the glories and excesses of the Qajar rulers. EAT a hearty dizi stew poured over the bread you’ve torn up for lunch and then dine on chelo kabab, skewers of meat on buttery rice. DRINK the refreshing yogurt-and-mint beverage called doogh, a great thing on a sweaty day. DO go skiing in winter – no capital city has a ski field closer – or hiking in the Alborz mountains in summer. WATCH the crazy traffic far below you as you stroll from park to park across the magnificent contemporary span of Tabiat Bridge.

BUY a carpet in the bazaar…a memorable, sociable experience. Put aside at least half a day for it. AFTER DARK enjoy the lights and atmosphere at the Darband teahouses in the city’s far north or discuss single-origin brews with Tehran’s hipsters in an arty cafe.

URBAN TALE At Sa’dabad Palace is a statue of an archer with a drawn bow. This is Arash Kamangir, a hero of ancient Persian legend. When Persia was at war with the Turanians, an agreement was made to establish a border between the two lands at the point where an arrow fell. Arash was known as a great archer, and he shot an arrow from the top of Mt Damavand, near Tehran, which according to legend flew for half a day before landing.

Tehran in winter, with the backdrop of the snow-covered Alborz mountains / ALEXANDER MAZURKEVICH | GETTY IMAGES

Tel Aviv // Israel Tel Aviv is the image that Israel most likes to present to the world as a modern, culturally dynamic and thoroughly 21st-century metropolis with one foot in the Middle East, the other in the Mediterranean.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Tel Aviv NICKNAME: The White City; The Big Orange DATE OF BIRTH: 1909; when it was founded by 60 families as a Jewish neighbourhood near Jaffa ADDRESS: Israel (map 5, F7) HEIGHT: 34m SIZE: 52 sq km POPULATION: 1.2 million ANATOMY Hayarkon St, Herbert Samuel Rd and Ibn Gvirol St are the main streets of Tel Aviv, running north–south and parallel to the seafront. In the north of the city are Tel Aviv University, Hayarkon Park, and classy residential neighbourhoods such as Ramat Aviv and Afeka. The old port district of Jaffa to the south is modern Tel Aviv’s antidote and alter ego. The inner city is flat and compact, making it great for walking or cycling. The New Central Bus Station is officially the world’s biggest bus station and buses will take you practically everywhere in Israel.

Tel Aviv’s colourful beachfront / DANOR_A | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Around a third of Israel’s population lives in Tel Aviv and it is a predominantly Jewish city, with Jewish immigrants and their descendants coming from all over the world. Many languages are spoken in addition to Hebrew. Although there are exceptions, Tel Aviv is brash and youthful and has little time for the religious dogma that so dominates conversations elsewhere in the country. It also wears its tolerance as a badge of honour and it remains the centre of the Israeli peace movement. And, whether true or not, it prides itself on being an outpost of Western civilisation grafted onto the soil of the Middle East – it faces west towards the Med, and, for much of its time, has its back to the rest of the region. BEST TIME Tel Aviv has the classic Western Mediterranean climate with surprisingly cool winters from November through to March and lovely, warm (but rarely oppressive) summers from June to August or September. Unless you’re here for the beach, spring and autumn (fall) can also be lovely times to visit.

The city is known for its Bauhaus architecture / IAISI | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY After eating an icy pole (ice lolly) on Tel Baruch Beach, a local favourite strip of sand, heading over to pedestrianised Nachalat Binyamin (street of artists) for a look at the work of the city’s artisans and street performers. Wandering down elegant Rothschild Blvd with its Bauhaus architecture and recharging your batteries at the Max Brennar Chocolate Bar. STRENGTHS • Weather • Beaches • Proximity to the country’s amazing sights and relics • Museum of the Diaspora • Wonderful live music scene with cross-cultural fusion a feature • Cafés spilling out onto the streets and beaches • Tel-O-Fun public bike hire WEAKNESSES

• Crazy traffic GOLD STAR For Bauhaus Modernist architecture, which gave rise to the moniker White City. Behind some drab facades is an incredible collection of Bauhaus buildings along Rothschild Blvd, Ahad Ha’am St, Engel St, Nachmani St, Melchett St and Balfour St, making it the Bauhaus capital of the world. STARRING ROLE IN… • Tel Aviv-Berlin (1987) • Walk on Water (2004) • The Flower of Anarchy by Meir Wieseltier • ‘Tel Aviv’ song by Duran Duran IMPORT • New York bagels • T’ai chi in Yarkon Park • Italian gelati • The usual fast-food suspects (but with inflated prices) • Cable TV • US culture • Mobile phones • Bauhaus architecture • Poet Meir Wieseltier • Tim Tam biscuits (around 700,000 packets a year) EXPORT • Kabbalah • Diamonds • Jaffa oranges • Israeli trance music • Tomato-growing technology • Jazz musician Avi Leibovitz • Fertilisers SEE fresh-faced soldiers, lads and lasses in shopping malls and nightclubs

bandying about their machine guns. EAT delicious halva ice cream down along Ibn Givrol and Frishman Sts. DRINK home-brewed ale at the Tel Aviv Brewhouse. DO walk along powder-fine sand beaches – you’ll find sand in every nook and cranny for days to come. WATCH avant-garde and new wave films at the Cinematheque. BUY secondhand goods at Shuk Hapishpeshim, Jaffa’s flea market. AFTER DARK take your darbuka (drum) and pound the night away on drum beach.

URBAN TALE According to the Bible, after Noah was catapulted to fame in a flood of worldwide proportions, one of his sons, Japheth, headed for the coast and founded a new city that was humbly named Jaffa (Yafo in Hebrew) in his own honour. It was also from Jaffa that Jonah departed in an attempt to escape from God, before being swallowed by a whale for three days and nights.

Playing the soundtrack for the hugely popular Pride Parade / RNDMS | SHUTTERSTOCK

Thimphu // Bhutan The capital of the last Buddhist Himalayan kingdom, Thimphu is the perfect representation of the Bhutanese attitude to modernisation. Locals in traditional robes sip espressos and browse the internet on smartphones before pausing to pray in ancient fortress-monasteries.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Thimphu NICKNAME: Shangri-La DATE OF BIRTH: 13th century; when a huge fortress was built, but the small town only became the national capital in 1961 ADDRESS: Bhutan (map 6, G5) HEIGHT: 2300m SIZE: 26 sq km POPULATION: 98,676 ANATOMY Thimphu lies in a beautiful, wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside beside the Thimphu Chhu River. Most of the action is on the west bank, where the thoroughfare of Norzin Lam runs north towards the mighty Trashi Chhoe Dzong. Smaller streets climb the hill to the posh suburb of Motithang, where you’ll find many government offices. Visitors on a normal tourist visa will have a car, driver and guide, but it’s more interesting to wander Thimphu on foot, free from a fixed itinerary.

Masked dancers perform at a tsechu / SEAN CAFFREY | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Thimphu’s people are fairly homogeneous, mainly comprising Drukpas (from the Ngalops and Sharchops ethnic groups; 65%) and members of indigenous or migrant tribes (15%). The main language is Dzongkha, but Tibetan and Nepali are also spoken. The main religions are Buddhism (75%) and Hinduism (25%) and there is little tension – indeed, the Bhutanese are famous for their Gross National Happiness, seen as a key yardstick for development by the Bhutanese government. Thimphu is the seat of the monarchy but most political decisions are actually taken by an elected parliament, albeit one selected according to complicated and archaic principles. BEST TIME March to May and September to November see the best weather in the high mountain valleys. Thimphu shivers from December to February and gets a dousing from the monsoon from June to August. Plan to attend at least one Weekend Market, the nation’s busiest bazaar.

Monks walk through an ornate courtyard at Tango Goemba / JONATHAN GREGSON | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Wandering Norzin Lam, lined with local restaurants and shops selling everything from smartphones to religious paraphernalia, en route to the aweinspiring Trashi Chhoe Dzong, which enshrines the thrones of three Bhutanese kings. STRENGTHS • Psychedelic colours at the Weekend Market • Amazing architecture • National institutes for culture and crafts • Pristine mountain air (despite growing numbers of cars) • Locals in traditional costume – gho (knee-length robes) for men, and long kira dresses for women • Gross National Happiness principle • Easy access to neighbouring mountain valleys

In spring Thimphu blooms with Bhutan’s famous rhododendrons / LINDSAY BROWN | GETTY IMAGES

WEAKNESSES • The cost of getting here • The cost of being here • The need to be on an organised tour GOLD STAR For the glorious Weekend Market, where tribal villagers jostle with wellheeled city traders, Thimphu housewives and monks from nearby monasteries. In one section of the market is an odoriferous collection of dried fish, beef and balls of datse (home-made soft cheese, melted into spicy sauces). During the winter you can even pick up a leg of yak (with the hoof still attached). The handicraft section is the place to pick up Buddhist prayer wheels, votive objects, baskets, local costume, strange hats from minority tribes and fearsome-looking masks for monastery chaam dances. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Other Final (2002) • Travellers and Magicians (2003) • Dreams of the Peaceful Dragon by Katie Hickman and Tom Owen Edmonds IMPORT • Wealthy tourists • Cafe culture • Wi-Fi and smartphones • TV – it arrived, finally, in the 21st century • International NGOs • Petrol and motor vehicles • Buddhism – introduced to Bhutan by Songtsen Gampo, king of Tibet, in the 7th century EXPORT • Philately

• Buddhist handicrafts • Cordyceps – a parasitic, insect-eating fungus highly prized as an aphrodisiac • The films of Buddhist lama Khyentse Norbu SEE the spectacular view of Thimphu Valley from the towering, 50m-tall Buddha Dordenma Statue. EAT ema datse, Bhutan’s sinus-clearing soup of stewed chillies and melted cheese. DRINK Tsheringma, a safflower-based herbal tea. DO take a day walk up to Tango Goemba, founded by ‘divine madman’ Drukpa Kunley, or Cheri Goemba, Bhutan’s first monastery. WATCH mesmerising masked dances at the tsechus (festivals) in Thimphu’s monasteries. BUY Buddhist dance masks, prayer wheels and Tibetan trumpets at the bustling Weekend Market. AFTER DARK ask your guide to take you to a drayang bar to hear local singers performing rousing traditional Bhutanese tunes.

URBAN TALE It is often noted that Thimphu is the only world capital without traffic lights. One was installed several years ago, but the residents complained that it was impersonal and ugly and it was removed within days. Instead, traffic continues to be directed by policemen stationed at two traffic circles, one at each end of Norzin Lam, who keep Thimphu’s traffic flowing using elegant, exaggerated gestures.

Terraced fields before Trashi Chho Dzong / SAM W STEARMAN | GETTY IMAGES

Tirana // Albania The proud and plucky capital of Albania is charming and surprising, with colonial Italian villas interspersed with fascinating Communist-era architecture and traditional Turkish mosques.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Tirana DATE OF BIRTH: 1614; when the city was founded by a Turkish Pasha ADDRESS: Albania (map 4, R16) HEIGHT: 89m SIZE: 41 sq km POPULATION: 610,000 ANATOMY The central square is the busy Sheshi Skënderbeg (Skënderbeg Sq) from where streets radiate like spokes on a wheel. The city’s main avenue, Bulveardi Dëshmorët e Kombit (Blvd of Heroes and Martyrs) runs from here to Tirana University, hiding ministries and hotels behind its plentiful trees. Near here is the Blloku – once the closed-off residential area of Tirana’s communist elite and now the trendy bar and nightclub quarter. Crowded city buses operate in Tirana.

The modernist mosaic Albania adorns the National History Museum in Sheshi Skënderbeg / MLENNY | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Traditionally Tirana has been almost entirely Albanian, particularly as foreigners were almost barred from even visiting until the end of communism in 1990. Since then, though, Tirana has been swamped by a succession of outsiders and now feels far more cosmopolitan and international than you’d expect from such a little-known city. Locals are proud of their city and of Albanian history, and are well known for the wonderful hospitality and delight at welcoming foreign visitors to their town. BEST TIME Tirana is a joy to visit in the spring and autumn, when it enjoys crisp, clear skies and plenty of sunshine. The summer months can be hot and humid, but they’re also a popular time to visit, though in August the city can feel a little empty, as much of the population heads to the Albanian Riviera for some beach time. Winter can be wet and very cold, and it’s probably best to avoid visiting Tirana between November and March if possible.

A PERFECT DAY Wandering the pleasant tree-lined avenues on a summer evening when everyone’s out for their xhiro (evening stroll), and soaking up the charming atmosphere of this friendliest of European capitals. STRENGTHS • Superb hostels and affordable hotels make it a doddle to find a good place to stay • Undiscovered by the tourist hoards and lacking in touts of any kind • A great base for exploring the rest of Albania, still a very unfairly overlooked destination WEAKNESSES • Getting around can be slow with heavy traffic and a bus system that few visitors will be able to figure out with ease • Litter is a problem – civic pride in Tirana still has a long way to go! • Whether you like smoking or not, you’ll find it everywhere here, despite a smoking ban! GOLD STAR For Mt Dajti, the mountain overlooking the city, which has some beautiful walking and great relaxation spots for weekenders wanting to escape the heat of the capital for the day. Take the cable car up there, a stunning 15-minute journey soaring above the city into the mountains. STARRING ROLE IN… • Tirana Year Zero (2002) • The Successor by Ismail Kadare IMPORT • Coffee and cigarettes, both of which fuel most locals all day long • Mercedes Benz cars EXPORT • Fruit and vegetables • Natural gas

• Oil SEE the impressive Et’hem Bey Mosque – one of the few religious buildings in the city to survive the Hoxha dictatorship’s ban on religion. EAT pretty much anything you want in Tirana’s ever-evolving restaurant scene. DRINK Albanian rakia (similar to cognac) if you want a truly rough hangover. DO go underground and explore the fantastic Bunk’Art, a fascinating conversion of a massive bunker for the communist elite. WATCH the nightly processions of Skënderbeg Sq as the entire city takes an evening stroll during the summer months. BUY anything and everything emblazoned with the impressive Albanian flag – this is one proud country. AFTER DARK head to the Blloku area for bar-hopping, outdoor cocktails or a dance at one of the city’s jumping nightspots.

URBAN TALE So paranoid was former dictator Enver Hoxha that he found a man who looked just like him and sent him regularly to stand in for him at public events, convinced that he was going to be assassinated at any moment. When Hoxha finally died and communism was overthrown a few years later, the doppelgänger was greeted by such terror from everyone he met who thought the dictator had come back to life, that he went mad and mutilated his own face.

A detail from the Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral / PETER PTSCHELINZEW | GETTY IMAGES

Tokyo // Japan Japan’s mercurial capital dazzles with its passion for the new, reverence for centuries-old traditions and knack for perfect urban living. Its fashions are eye-popping, architecture amazing, food delicious and public transport superb.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Tokyo NICKNAME: Eastern Capital DATE OF BIRTH: 10,000–300 BC; during the Jōmon period, when people enjoyed good hunting in the marshy region ADDRESS: Japan (map 6, T2) HEIGHT: 6m SIZE: 2188 sq km POPULATION: 13.6 million ANATOMY Get to grips with Tokyo’s massive size by studying its spaghetti-tangle rail map that includes three different train systems; the easiest one to follow is Japan Railway’s Yamanote line, which loops around the city centre taking in the Imperial Palace with Ginza and Marunouchi (business district) in the east. To the west lies club-paradise Roppongi and then more nightlife in Shibuya and Shinjuku. Addresses are determined not by street name (few have actual names) but by indicating the ku (ward), then the chō or machi (like suburbs) and then chōme (roughly a couple of blocks).

The glowing Tokyo Tower and cityscape seen from Tokyo City View observation deck / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE Japan’s famous homogeneity is disturbed by cosmopolitan Tokyo, but only slightly. Non-Japanese number around 460,000 and form a gaijin (foreigner) population of business visitors, English-language teachers and Korean communities. Broadly, the population is Japanese, some of whom have a grasp of English, but many know only their native tongue. BEST TIME Spring (late March to early May) and autumn (October and November) are the best times to visit, the former season a chance to view the famous cherry blossom (hanami), the latter the brilliant fall colours. Although summer is hot and humid, it’s also a busy time for festivals, in particular the spectacular hanabi (firework) shows on the Sumida River and Tokyo Bay.

Picnicing beneath a cherry tree in Yoyogi Park in Harajuku neighbourhood / LOTTIE DAVIES | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Marvelling at the mass of humanity streaming across neon-drenched Shibuya Crossing, striking a pose with the fashionistas of Harajuku near Meiji Shrine, getting spiritual at Tokyo’s greatest Buddhist temple Sensō-ji, then polishing off the night with beer and snacks at an izakaya (pub/eatery). STRENGTHS • Akihabara pop culture • Ginza • Robots • ‘Bullet’ trains • Tokyo National Museum • Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien • Shinjuku • Mt Fuji • Kaijū (monster movie) • Imperial Palace • Meiji Shrine and surrounding Harajuku and Aoyama areas • Kabuki-za Theatre • Hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) in spring • Kite Museum

The Kite Museum in Nihombashi / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

WEAKNESSES • High cost of living • Earthquakes • Overpackaging • Strict formality • Sardine-packed rush-hour trains and subways GOLD STAR

For low crime – most people will chase after you to return your dropped wallet, and the streets are safe at all hours. STARRING ROLE IN… • Lost in Translation (2003) • Tokyo Godfathers (2003) • After Dark (2004) • Tokyo Tribe (2014) IMPORT • Disneyland • Coffee • Gaijin (foreigners) • Whisky • Korean labourers EXPORT • Sony • 17th-century haiku poet Bashō • ‘Bullet’ trains • Yohji Yamamoto • Hayao Miyazaki • Issey Miyake • Asahi beer • Manga • Dragon Ball • Nikon • J-pop • Banana Yoshimoto • Iron Chef TV series • Haruki Murakami • Pokémon SEE the Meiji shrine, a tranquil Shinto sanctuary. EAT yakitori (grilled skewers of chicken or vegetables), under the railway

tracks at Yūrakuchō Sanchoku Inshokugai. DRINK shōchū – distilled liquor that’s the local firewater – at the tiny retro bars of Golden Gai in Shinjuku. DO soak and scrub your cares away at the onsen (traditional bathhouse) playground of Ōedo Onsen Monogatari. WATCH sumo at the Ryōgoku Kokugikan Stadium. BUY everything from craft supplies to the latest hi-tech gadget at Tōkyū Hands. AFTER DARK sing your heart out in a deluxe karaoke box at Shidax Village.

URBAN TALE There’s a common misconception that Tokyo was named after the former imperial capital, Kyoto, by reversing the elements of the names: Kyo-to became To-kyo. In fact this is incorrect, as becomes obvious when looking the Japanese characters for the two names. The character for ‘kyo’, meaning ‘capital’, is the same, but the characters for ‘to’ are different, and are pronounced differently in Japanese. Tokyo means ‘Eastern Capital’. The city was known as Edo until emperor Meiji made it his seat of government in 1868.

Ceremonial sake barrels Meiji Jingū shrine / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Toronto // Canada Toronto is Canada’s boldest and biggest metropolis, where the world’s people are within reach of a streetcar ride and tolerance is a reigning virtue.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Toronto NICKNAME: The Megacity; Hogtown; TO DATE OF BIRTH: 1793; when loyalists from the American revolutionary war fled north ADDRESS: Canada (map 2, P4) HEIGHT: 116m SIZE: 641 sq km (city), 5906 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 2.6 million (city), 5.6 million (metro area) ANATOMY Toronto itself was once under the waters of Lake Iroquois. Today the modern city sits beside Lake Ontario and the Toronto Islands. The downtown area never feels overwhelming because of the cleverly placed ‘traffic-calming zones’ – quiet, leafy residential blocks, and one-way streets lined with handsome Victorian row houses. TO is flat, making for easy walking, and has a model public-transport system of integrated subway, bus and streetcar services.

Every winter Nathan Phillips Sq transforms into an ice-skating rink / BERT HOFERICHTER | ALAMY

PEOPLE Toronto is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, with just over half its residents born outside of Canada. Those of European origin are chiefly of British, Irish, French, Italian and Portuguese descent. Chinese and South Asian communities make up about 12% and 10% of the population respectively. Half of all Black Canadians live in Toronto, and they constitute around 5.6% of its population. Over 100 languages and dialects are spoken here, and over one-third of Toronto residents speak a language other than English at home. BEST TIME From June to September Torontonians get happy, venturing outdoors on perfectly warm days. Festivals are crammed into every weekend, including Pride Month and plenty of music and performances, with some requiring prepurchased tickets. The temperature averages a peak of 25°C June to August, dropping to 20°C in September. If you want winter sports, aim for December

to February, when Nathan Phillips Sq outside City Hall turns into a popular ice-skating rink.

The Victorian warehouses of the Distillery District are now cafes, galleries and boutiques / RICHARD NOWITZ | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY A quick breakfast at the St Lawrence Market, strolling down to the Harbourfront and catching the ferry to Centre Island, then cycling along the boardwalk, stopping to admire the flower gardens on Ward’s Island before heading back to the mainland, riding the subway north from Union Station to leafy Baldwin Village for lunch at an outdoor café and dinner in Little Italy/India/Jamaica or Portugal. STRENGTHS • Art Gallery of Ontario • Royal Ontario Museum • Toronto Fringe Festival • Toronto Caribbean Carnival • Toronto Jazz Festival • Excellent international dining • PATH – underground pedestrian walkway • Toronto Islands • St Lawrence Market • Harbourfront • Hip stores and restaurants of Queen West WEAKNESSES • Winter cold and summer humidity • Property bubble pressuring accommodation costs • Increasing numbers of homeless people on the streets • Snarled traffic on major expressways GOLD STAR For location: this lakeside city has its own islands and a string of gorgeous beaches. Just beyond the city limits are the fertile vineyards of the Niagara Peninsula, and easy access to the mighty Niagara Falls themselves. STARRING ROLE IN…

• Good Will Hunting (1997) • X-Men (2000) • This Beautiful City (2007) • Scott Pilgrim vs the World (2010) • Suicide Squad (2016) • Queer as Folk (TV series 2000–2005) IMPORT • Immigrants from everywhere • Draft dodgers • Cuisine from all over the world EXPORT • Ice hockey • Maple syrup • Conrad Black • Margaret Atwood • Keanu Reeves • Jim Carrey • David Cronenberg • Drake • Frank Gehry • Glenn Gould • Naomi Klein • The Weeknd • deadmau5 • Dan Aykroyd • Mike Myers SEE the view from the revolving restaurant atop the CN Tower. EAT fusion Euro-Asian flavours at modern upmarket bistros, in jasmine-tea gelato, or in spins on homely mac’n’cheese. DRINK Niagara Peninsula wines, particularly ice-wine vintages.

DO make the trip to Niagara Falls for a good drenching. WATCH a Blue Jays baseball game at Rogers Centre or ice hockey in winter. BUY from the eclectic, hip shops on Queen St W and around Kensington Market. AFTER DARK sample theatrical cocktail presentations in bars along Queen St W and shake it in clubs on King St W.

URBAN TALE The Victorian city, controlled by conservative politicians, became known as ‘Toronto the Good’, a tag that only began to fade in the 1970s. Religious restraints (for instance, it was illegal to hire a horse on Sunday) and strong anti-vice laws were largely responsible. Not all that long ago, curtains were drawn in department-store windows on Sunday, because window-shopping was considered sinful, and movies couldn’t be screened on the holy day.

The Sharp Centre for Design is a modern, elevated building at the Ontario College of Art and Design University (OCAD U) / DONALD NAUSBAUM | GETTY IMAGES

Ulaanbaatar // Mongolia Ulaanbaatar is the furthest capital city in the world from the sea. This decidedly rough-and-ready capital of semi-nomadic Mongolia stands at a vast remove from the rest of the world, but change and modernisation are happening rapidly.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Ulaanbaatar NICKNAME: UB DATE OF BIRTH: 1693; although the city was largely nomadic, so it actually changed locations regularly until the 20th century ADDRESS: Mongolia (map 1, JJ9) HEIGHT: 1325m SIZE: 4705 sq km POPULATION: 1.3 million ANATOMY The city sprawls through the Tuul River valley, across the southern flood plains and rolling hills to the north. It’s centred around the vast Sükhbaatar Sq, named after the leader of Mongolia’s 1921 communist revolution. The Trans-Mongolian railway runs right through the city too, and provides a useful landmark, running parallel to the Dund River. Local buses mainly serve commuters coming in from the suburbs; getting around downtown is best done on foot or by taxi. Buses are helpful for traversing Peace Ave or heading south to Zaisan.

Dancers in traditional costume at a Naadam festival / SAUL LOEB | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE UB is bursting at the seams these days. Almost half of the country’s population lives here, which, given the country is twice the size of France, is quite indicative of just how empty the Mongolian steppe really is. The capital’s population is 99% Mongolian. Economic divisions have become more apparent over the past decade as middle and upper income families leave the polluted ger districts and congested downtown for gated ‘apartment towns’ scattered around the city, most of them in the southern part of UB. Mongolians have embraced their newly globalised capital, flocking to Western fast-food chains, Korean coffee shops, and air-conditioned shopping malls. BEST TIME Most visitors wisely visit Ulaanbaatar in the warm months between late May and early September, when the weather is mild and the city gets up to 17 hours of daylight. Naadam (11–13 July) is a popular time, although it is

preferable to spend the holiday in the countryside where one can have a more traditional experience. June and July can experience heat waves while August weather always seems the most pleasant.

Buddhist monks at Gandantegchinlen monastery / BERTHIER EMMANUEL | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Visiting the markets to see the colours and traditional clothing, wandering the dimly-lit halls in ancient temples, venturing into the mountains south of the city for spectacular views then checking out some Mongolian throat singing or the circus in the evening after some hearty fare in a traditional restaurant. STRENGTHS • Engaging, energetic population • Extraordinary historical buildings, temples and museums • Striking contrasts between the ancient and ultra-modern • Superb trips to the surrounding stunning countryside WEAKNESSES • Limited road network and surplus of cars often results in terrible traffic jams • Smog accumulation in winter due to coal fires can reach levels 20 times higher than what is considered safe, fortunately the air is mostly clear in summer months

Belts for sale at the Naran Tuul (Black Market) / PETER LANGER | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For spectacular monasteries. Visiting the Gandantegchinlen Khiid is a humbling and memorable experience, as is seeing the interior of the Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan. STARRING ROLE IN… There have been several very successful films shot in Mongolia including The Weeping Camel (2003) and The Eagle Huntress (2016), but they tend to focus on rural life and as such have not been shot in Ulaanbaatar itself. IMPORT • Japanese Prius cars • Clothing, processed food, consumer electronics • Western fast-food chains EXPORT • Copper

• Cashmere • Leather • Coal • Sumo wrestlers SEE wrestling and other traditional sports during the Naadam Festival in July. EAT buuz (steamed mutton dumplings) and khuushuur (fried mutton pancakes). DRINK airag (fermented horse milk), available in many supermarkets and sidewalk stalls in summer. DO not miss the staggering exhibits of ancient fossils at the Central Museum of Dinosaurs. WATCH extraordinary performances of unique Mongolian throat singing. BUY cashmere sweaters at one of the many downtown cashmere boutiques. AFTER DARK hit the pubs and nightclubs: Ulaanbaatar has hundreds of late-night watering holes to suit every taste.

URBAN TALE In 1993 a young Australian woman named Didi Kalika arrived in Ulaanbaatar to teach yoga and pick up odd jobs. She found an impoverished city with many urban problems, not the least of which was untold numbers of street children. Some came begging at her doorstep and Didi took them in from the freezing cold to offer food and shelter. They came in such great numbers that she eventually opened an orphanage. Mongolia’s economy has stabilised over the past 25 years but the country still has many orphans, and Didi still takes them in. The Lotus Children’s Center is located outside of Gachuurt village, about 15km east of Ulaanbaatar.

Sunset catches a haze of coal-fire smoke over Ulaanbaatar / GML | GETTY IMAGES

Ushuaia // Argentina Busy port and adventure hub, this southernmost city in the world occupies a mythical location, hemmed by ancient moss-bound forests where the snowcapped Andes skid towards the Beagle Channel.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Ushuaia DATE OF BIRTH: 1884; when a mission was founded here ADDRESS: Argentina (map 1, N25) HEIGHT: sea level SIZE: 23 sq km POPULATION: 67,600 ANATOMY The growing harbour city, whose name means ‘bay overlooking the west’ in the local Yamaná language, is situated on the Beagle Channel, its growth sprawling untidily along the coast. It’s easy to walk around the compact town, as most of its sights are close together, but you can also catch local buses or taxis.

A view over the rooftops and harbour to the Martial Range / BOBBUSHPHOTO | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The citizens of Ushuaia are both recent immigrants seeking economic opportunity and the descendants of pioneers who came here to settle, explore or serve prison terms. Of the Yamaná people who once flourished here, only artefacts, shell mounds, Thomas Bridges’ famous dictionary of the Yamaná language and scant publications remain. Ninety-three percent of the population is Roman Catholic. BEST TIME Visit during the austral summer from November to March for long, sunlit days conducive to hiking, fly-fishing, boating and estancia visits. Go from July to September for snow sports and dogsledding. A PERFECT DAY Walking the steep streets and checking out quirky historical buildings and cafes, then hiking the national park in search of shell middens and giant Magellanic woodpeckers, cruising out to the penguin colony on Isla Martillo

and feasting on the freshest king crab you will ever taste. STRENGTHS • A lively pub scene thick with adventurers • World-class wilderness out the back door • Cerro Castor, the world’s southernmost ski resort • Museo del Presidio • The End of the World Train – the world’s southernmost steam train • Estancia Haberton – the oldest sheep station in Tierra del Fuego WEAKNESSES • The long, cold winters • The short, cool summers • The distance to get here • Blustery conditions that can close the port GOLD STAR For Museo Marítimo and Museo del Presidio – housed in the national prison, which was built by convicts who were moved from Staten Island to Ushuaia in 1906. The prison’s spoke-like halls of single cells were designed to house 380 prisoners, but at its peak held up to 800 inmates, including well-known political prisoners such as author Ricardo Rojas and Russian anarchist Simón Radowitzky. It closed as a jail in 1947 and now houses these fascinating museums. STARRING ROLE IN… • Happy Together (1997) • The Revenant (2015 – scenes set in the US West filmed here) • Uttermost Part of the Earth by Lucas Bridges IMPORT • Food • Missionaries • A workforce from continental Argentina • Cruise ships • Expectant penguin-spotters

• Eager Antarctic visitors • Adventurous skiers, dogsledders and hikers EXPORT • Cruise ships • Satisfied penguin-spotters • Contented Antarctic visitors • Tired skiers, dogsledders and hikers SEE the museums in the old prison: halls showing penal life are intriguing, and on the upper floor of one hall is a display on Antarctic exploration. EAT Tierra del Fuego centolla (King crab) and black sea bass at Kaupé. DRINK the traditional beverage of yerba maté. DO boat the Beagle Channel – the majestic, mountain-fringed sea passage south of the city – for sea lions’ lairs and cormorant colonies. WATCH yachts hoping to round Cape Horn set sail from port. BUY fleece layers to keep the chill off. AFTER DARK sip cocoa at snowbound bonfires after dogsledding in the Martial Range.

URBAN TALE As Charles Darwin saw it, the Yamaná (or Yahgan) of the Beagle Channel – naked except for a loincloth and sealskin cape, and paddling about in canoes with all their most important possessions, including bows, dogs and even fire – were ‘subhuman beings…without spiritual life.’ Perhaps, had old Chuck spent more time on land rather than concocting his theories aboard ship, he might have noticed that the Yamaná had a rich system of spiritual beliefs. They believed in a Supreme Being, Watauinewa, and had shamans who talked to spirits that

the Yamaná believed controlled the weather and the hunt. Darwin might have seen that during the Kina ceremony, in which boys are initiated to adulthood, the men dressed themselves as gods, painting their bodies with black carbon and the region’s white and red clays, holding tall masks and dancing to represent the different spirits: Kina-Miami, the guardian; Tulema-Yaka, the tutor; and Hani-Yaka, the energy giver.

Sea lions are a common sight on the islands of the Beagle Channel / RONALDO MELO | GETTY IMAGES

Valletta // Malta A capital that’s the size of a small town, Valletta has undergone a renaissance, with its new landmark buildings, renovated museums, and burgeoning restaurant and bar scene. The beautiful 17th-century city is a World Heritage site, its graceful streets crammed with around 320 monuments.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Valletta DATE OF BIRTH: 1566; Valetta was built by the Knights of the Order of St John ADDRESS: Malta (map 4, O19) HEIGHT: 56m SIZE: 0.8 sq km POPULATION: 6444 (city), 393,938 (metropolitan area) ANATOMY Perched on the tip of the Sceberras Peninsula, Valetta’s grid-like pattern of streets makes it easy to navigate. From the new, Renzo Piano-designed City Gate, outside which you’ll find the bus terminus, the main street, Triq irRepubblika (Republic St) runs northeast to Fort St Elmo. Parallel with Repubblika run Triq ir-Merkanti (Merchant St) to the southeast and Triq irIfran (Old Bakery St) to the northwest. Triq ir-Repubblika and Triq irMerkanti are on the highest point of Valetta and the side streets run downhill. The main landmarks, St John’s Co-Cathedral and the Grand Master’s Palace, are on Triq ir-Repubblika. Tiny Valletta is easily explored on foot.

The Carmelite Church dome and St Paul’s Anglican Cathedral dominate the skyline / NEALE CLARK/ROBERTHARDING | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Almost 95% of Malta’s population is of Maltese origin. The majority of the foreign community is from other European countries, but there is a small North African Muslim community. Since their independence from Britain in 1964, the Maltese have shown their passion for political engagement (around 90% of people vote). The Roman Catholic Church still has a large influence, with divorce only made legal in 2011 and family values are very strong. The native language is Malti, but the majority also speak English and many also speak Italian. BEST TIME Malta’s weather is at its finest in June and September, when it’s warm enough to swim, but not too hot and busy. July and August are the holiday months, baking hot, and high season, so accommodation is more expensive and the city is crowded. Europe’s biggest pop festival, the Isle of MTV, is in June/July, the Jazz Festival in June, and the Arts Festival from mid-June to

mid-July. Valletta’s beautiful baroque music festival takes place in January, Carnival, with it parade and costume, in January/February, and the fizzpopping harbourside Firework Festival is in the spring.

A romantic horse-drawn carriage ride / SYLVAIN SONNET | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Exploring ancient and modern Valletta: walking through Renzo Piano’s minimalist, modernist City Gate, admiring his controversial but elegant parliament buildings, visiting the splendour of the Knights of Malta’s St John Co-Cathedral and Grand Master’s Palace, before walking down through exred-light, now bar-lined district Strait Street to discover Malta’s experience of the Great Siege and WWII, brought to life in the state-of-the-art National War Museum in Fort St Elmo. STRENGTHS • Grand Harbour • St John’s Co-Cathedral • Renzo Piano-designed City Gate, Parliament Building and Opera House • 300 days of sunshine per year • Mediterranean film studios – Europe’s biggest film-production water tanks • The city’s fortifications • The Grand Master’s Palace • National War Museum • Excellent scuba-diving • Rich marine life, such as sea horses and bottlenose dolphins • Warm sea (over 20°C in summer) • Cisk lager • Boutique hotels • Traditional boat trips around the harbour • Carnival (February/March) • National Museum of Archaeology WEAKNESSES • Rubbish in landfill sites

Participants in the In Guardia pageant / KATJA KREDER | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For history on display, from the foreboding city fortifications to a baroque hospital at the Sacra Infermeria to the peaceful 16th-century Church of St Paul’s Shipwreck. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Spy Who Loved Me (1977) • Assassin’s Creed (2015) • Murder on the Orient Express (2017) IMPORT • Mattia Preti • Caravaggio • Jean Parisot de la Vallette (hero of the 1565 Great Siege and founder of Valletta) • Knights of the Order of St John

EXPORT • Writer Oliver Friġġieri • Edward Bono, inventor of ‘lateral thinking’ • Handmade lace • Silver filigree • Glassware SEE where the knights used to worship at St John’s Co-Cathedral, and admire Caravaggio’s paintings in the Cathedral Museum. EAT excellent seafood at Rampila, set into Valletta’s fortifications (which even has its own waxworks museum). DRINK local wine and listen to live jazz at the Bridge Bar on Friday evening. DO visit Upper Barrakka Gardens for views of the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities. WATCH historical pageants and re-enactments at Fort St Elmo. BUY locally produced glassware at Mdina Glass. AFTER DARK see concerts, plays and films in the St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity.

URBAN TALE Malta has been under siege more than once. Indeed it was the Great Siege of 1565 that prompted Valetta to be built in the first place. But possibly the worst battle was in 1942, when it was bombed for 154 consecutive days and nights (London’s Blitz at its worst experienced 57 consecutive days). Operation Pedestal was launched. Under heavy attack only five supply ships made it through, but this was enough to save Malta. In April 1942 King George VI awarded the George Cross to the people of Malta for their bravery.

The baroque interior of St John’s Co-Cathedral / TONY ZELENOFF | SHUTTERSTOCK

Valparaiso // Chile Valparaíso is a dramatic city of narrow wave-cut terraces with steep, labyrinthine roads and crumbling mansions, precipitous cliffs and a rugged Pacific coastline.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Valparaíso NICKNAME: Valpo; the Pearl of the Pacific DATE OF BIRTH: 1536; when it was founded by the Spanish conquistador Juan de Saavedra, then permanently established in 1544 when Pedro de Valdivia made it his official port ADDRESS: Chile (map 1, N21) HEIGHT: 40m SIZE: 402 sq km POPULATION: 284,630 ANATOMY Chile’s principal port and second-largest city, Valparaíso occupies a narrow strip of land between the waterfront and nearby hills. Its convoluted centre (known as El Plan) has distinctive, sinuous cobblestone streets and is overlooked by precipitous cliffs and hilltop suburbs, which are accessed by funicular railways and stairway footpaths. It is conducive to endless rambling strolls, and its natural history, fine arts and maritime museums are justly famed. Muelle Prat, the redeveloped pier, is a lively market area.

Valparaíso spills down the hillside in a riot of colour / ALEX SANDER | 500PX

PEOPLE The lineage of Valpo residents is strongly European, particularly Spanish, English and German. The Catholic Church has a great deal of political power here, as elsewhere in Chile. Locals are known as porteños – people from the port. BEST TIME Valpo hosts a spectacular New Year’s Eve celebration, with cascades of fireworks over the sea, and is crawlng with Chilean holiday-goers in the vacation month of January. The city gets downright chilly in winter (June to August). Outside of those months, any time is a good time to wander the charming streets of this hilly port city. A PERFECT DAY Quaffing a cafecito (short black coffee) for breakfast, then taking a paseo (walk) through the winding streets and parks, shopping at the fresh fish market on the port and cooking up a caldillo (seafood soup), having a siesta in the afternoon and dancing until the wee hours on the waterfront. STRENGTHS • Ascensores (funicular lifts) and the quirky individuals who operate them • Generally mild climate • Views from the cerros (hills) • Tangled, cobbled backstreets • Gorgeous Pacific coastline • Excellent seafood • Rich literary history • Brightly coloured barrios (neighbourhoods) on the hillsides • Porteños and their pride in their city’s history • The murals at the Museo a Cielo Abierto (Open-Sky Museum) • El Mercurio de Valparaíso – the world’s oldest Spanish-language newspaper WEAKNESSES

• Earthquakes • Shantytowns • Petty theft • Northern gales in winter GOLD STAR For its unique, faded grandeur and spontaneous, bohemian charm. Often described as Chile’s most distinctive city, the entire city has been named a Unesco World Heritage site. STARRING ROLE IN… • Valparaiso, Valparaiso (1971) • Valparaíso (1994) • El Wanderers de Valparaíso (2003) • Canto General and Confieso que he vivido (I Confess That I Have Lived) by Pablo Neruda • Azul by Rubén Darío IMPORT • Spanish colonists • Fútbol (football) • Rubén Darío • British and German immigrants • Chile’s National Congress • Nearly everything that comes to Chile via the sea EXPORT • Salvador Allende • Nobel prize–winning poetry by Pablo Neruda and Gabriela Mistral • Experimental cinema • Chilean folk musicians • Wine • Pisco • Seafood • Most of Chile’s produce

SEE the final steps of 500,000 pilgrims walking the Virgen de lo Vasquez Pilgrimage in December each year. EAT curanto – a hearty stew of fish, shellfish, chicken, pork, lamb, beef and potato. DRINK great Chilean wines – try a spicy Carménère – with the locals at Café Vinilo. DO ride the ascensores to Cerro Concepción, both for the view and the neighbourhood. WATCH the spectacular fireworks over the harbour on Año Nuevo (New Year). BUY antiques in the market at Plaza O’Higgins. AFTER DARK head to an old sailor’s hangout like Bar Cinzano for a pisco sour with a local crowd.

URBAN TALE The town of Valparaíso has certainly mythologised its most famous poet. Pablo Neruda maintained one of several Chilean homes here in Valparaíso, known as La Sebastiana. Although it was his least-visited house, Neruda made it a point to watch Valparaíso’s annual New Year’s fireworks from his lookout on Cerro Bellavista. He heaped praise on Valpo in his works Canto General and I Confess That I Have Lived, and porteños have not forgotten his tribute. On the 100th anniversary of the birth of Pablo Neruda, porteños composed the world’s largest poem in his honour. It was printed on a roll of paper 20m long and 1m wide, and included contributions from throughout Chile.

Vancouver // Canada Casual but cosmopolitan, freewheeling and offbeat Vancouver is framed by a mountain backdrop with the sea kissing its edges.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Vancouver NICKNAME: Hollywood North; City of Glass DATE OF BIRTH: 1867; first named Gastown, a saloon was opened next to a sawmill and a town sprang up around it ADDRESS: Canada (map 2, A1) HEIGHT: 14m SIZE: 107 sq km (city), 2879 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 603,500 (city), 2.4 million (metro area) ANATOMY Straddling the lowlands of the Fraser River and the Coast Mountains of southwest British Columbia, Vancouver sits atop the most active earthquake zone in Canada. There are many bays, inlets and river branches shaping the city and coastline. Skyscrapers, big business and high finance sit just blocks from Stanley Park’s thick rainforest. The city spreads east and north, and is well served by an elevated skytrain, buses and the sea-bus crossing to North Vancouver.

Downtown Vancouver, False Creek, Burrard Bridge and Granville Street Bridge / ELLEN ATKIN | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Vancouver’s population comes from all over the world. By the end of the 20th century it had the largest Asian population in Canada with an influx of Hong Kong Chinese. Forty percent of Vancouver residents are foreign-born. With the knowledge that they live in an all-round ‘top foreign city’ known for its ‘best quality of life’, Vancouverites have a laid-back mind-set, happy to be part of a pioneering Pacific Rim city where marijuana is tolerated and the foodie scene has exploded. Vancouverites are outdoors oriented (they don’t wear all that Gore-Tex for nothing), skiing in the winter but also cycling, blading, paddling on False Creek and sailing on English Bay. BEST TIME December to March are prime months for skiing. Summer crowds roll in from June to September, when there are festivals aplenty. Spring and fall reign supreme for great weather and reduced hotel rates.

Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge has breathtaking views over Lynn Valley / VITALIY YUROCHKIN | 500PX

A PERFECT DAY Strolling through Stanley Park, lunching on the terrace at the Vancouver Art Gallery (having wandered through the permanent collection of local artists and caught the latest temporary exhibition), taking the sea bus across to North Van and watching for seals in the harbour before heading out to the university campus and the huge collection of First Nation artefacts at the Museum of Anthropology, then finishing the day by dining on Pacific Northwest cuisine on Granville Island. STRENGTHS • Vancouver Art Gallery • Stanley Park • Museum of Anthropology • The startling Coast Mountains north of the city • Granville Island Public Market • Eating outside all year round

• Star-spotting on film sets • Microbreweries galore • Asian dining scene • 500-plus ice-cream flavours at La Casa Gelato – wasabi or balsamic anyone? • The tiny ferries across to Granville Island • Kitsilano and Jericho beaches • Neighbourhood festivals WEAKNESSES • The rain – 170 days a year • Rapidly gentrifying neighbourhoods fuelling high house prices • Eating out year-round – ‘Can we please go inside, now?’ • Blocked-off streets for film sets • Always substituting for somewhere else

The intriguing Steam Clock in Gastown / MICHAEL WHEATLEY | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For Granville Island – not really an island but an enclave of artists, artisans, theatre companies and the best public market in Western Canada, with great views over the city any time of the day. STARRING ROLE IN… • Double Jeopardy (1999) • Carts of Darkness (2008) • Deadpool (2015) • The X Files (TV series 1993–98) • Douglas Coupland novels • The Jade Peony by Wayson Choy IMPORT • Hong Kong Chinese citizens • Hong Kong Chinese money • Hollywood productions • South Asian communities • William Gibson EXPORT • Greenpeace • Michael J Fox • Pamela Anderson • Ryan Reynolds • Carrie-Ann Moss • Seth Rogan • Diana Krall • Bryan Adams • Michael Bublé • Smoked salmon • Maple syrup • Salmon jerky SEE Dr Sun Yat-Sen Garden, a tranquil oasis in Chinatown’s midst, where every pebble and brook has its place.

EAT seafood – salmon, halibut, spot prawns and freshly shucked oysters – fresh from local waters. DRINK beers from the ever-changing chalkboard list at Brassneck Brewery and other tasting rooms around Main St. DO take a flower-studded alpine hike up Grouse Mountain past grizzly bears. WATCH First Nations carvers working at the Museum of Anthropology. BUY indie fashions at a Gastown ‘shop hop’, when boutiques stay open late and throw a neighbourhood-wide party. AFTER DARK head to Biltmore Cabaret, a low-ceilinged, good-vibe spot to mosh to indie bands.

URBAN TALE There is a haunted house on the southeast corner of King Edward and Cambie Sts. A doctor killed his wife there in the 1930s… or maybe someone else was murdered and now Chinese monks that summon the dead live there. Or things fly around in the house. Exorcisms have failed – in one case, a priest, or some other holy person, went to sleep inside the house and woke up in the middle of the night somewhere outside the house. Or maybe, just maybe, locals are getting themselves worked up over nothing.

Kayaking adventures await at Deep Cove / MICHAEL WHEATLEY | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Varanasi // India India’s holiest city is a magnet for Hindu pilgrims and spiritually-minded travellers from the across the world. Its riverside ghats (ceremonial steps) are a riot of activity from dawn till dusk, as devotees gather to pray and fraternise, have fortunes told and say last goodbyes to loved ones beside flickering cremation fires.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Varanasi NICKNAME: The Eternal City; The City of Shiva DATE OF BIRTH: 1400 BC; Varanasi has been a centre of learning and civilisation since this time ADDRESS: India (map 6, F6) HEIGHT: 81m SIZE: 74 sq km POPULATION: 1.4 million ANATOMY The old city of Varanasi is strung out along the western bank of the sacred River Ganges, sprawling back from the riverside ghats in a labyrinth of alleyways. These galis are too narrow for traffic and can be disorienting for first-time visitors, but getting lost in this maze-like city is part of the appeal. Hotels are usually well signposted and however lost you become, you will eventually land up at a ghat where you can get your bearings. To roam further, catch crowded buses or a cycle-rickshaw or autorickshaw.

Varanasi life goes on beside, on and in the Ganges / MARK READ | LONELY PLANET

PEOPLE As you’d expect, the majority of Varanasi’s inhabitants are Hindu, and displays of religious devotion are a public activity in this most sacred of cities. Observe respectfully and you’ll have front row seats onto India’s spiritual heart. Despite Varanasi’s exulted religious status, poor infrastructure mars life for many citizens. Electricity supplies are erratic, the sacred river is notoriously polluted, and shortages of firewood due to overharvesting to fuel the city’s funeral fires add to the hardships faced by its poorest citizens. Nevertheless, Varanasi has wealth, not least in cultural terms, with a rich history of Indian classical music and a university that has produced some of India’s brightest minds. BEST TIME The sun shines warmly on Varanasi from October to March, but Hindu festivals are celebrated with gusto through the year. Ram Lila in September/October sees a month of reenactments and prayers for the god Rama, while Dev Deepavali in November/December fills the Ganges with

more than a million floating lights.

Revered cows have the run of the streets in Varanasi / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Watching pilgrims perform puja (prayer) at dawn on the ghats, before strolling the length of the old city riverfront, pausing for cups of chai (Indian tea) with priests, fortune tellers and mendicant holy men. STRENGTHS • The mystical Ganges • People-watching at Dasaswamedh Ghat • The haunting cremation fires at Manikarnika Ghat • Just a few surviving Ganges susu (dolphins) • The deeply revered Vishwanath Temple • The calm campus of Benares Hindu University • Dawn boat trips along the sacred river • Reliving old Varanasi at Hotel Ganges View • Reenactments of Rama’s life during Ram Lila (September/October) WEAKNESSES • Pollution – from cars on land, and factories and sewage in the sacred river • Regular blackouts • Crowds – it takes an age to get anywhere • Hassle from rickshaw-wallahs and touts • The risk of crime on public transport GOLD STAR For religious fervor – you won’t see anything like it anywhere else. STARRING ROLE IN… • Aparajito (1956) • Ganges: River to Heaven (2003) • Ganges Dreaming (2004) IMPORT • Foreign university and music students • Hindu pilgrims by the million

• Poet-saint Tulsi Das • Mark Twain EXPORT • Langda aam (mangoes) • Sitafal (custard apples) • Lassis, including the notorious bhang (cannabis) variety • Silk brocade and Benares saris • Bhadohi carpets • Sitar master Ravi Shankar • Artist Rajul Mehta • Sir James Brooke, later Rajah of Sarawak SEE the incredible gold dome and tower of Vishwanath Temple – from the shop over the road if you’re not Hindu, or from inside the temple if you are. EAT singharas – water chestnuts grown in floating gardens on the River Ganges, served raw (green) or lightly boiled (black). DRINK a glass of history at Princep Bar, named after James Princep, illustrator of Varanasi’s temples and ghats. DO an uplifting boat trip down the Ganges from Dasaswamedh Ghat to Harishchandra Ghat at dawn. WATCH, respectfully, the cremations at Manikarnika Ghat. BUY silk saris, scarves and sheets at Mehrotra Silk Factory. AFTER DARK watch a sitar concert at the International Music Centre Ashram, and take lessons there if you feel inspired.

URBAN TALE Varanasi is the spiritual centre of the Hindu religion, a crossing place between the physical and the spiritual world. Hindus believe that

washing in the river will cleanse their bodies of sin, and that dying here will bring moksha, which is liberation from the cycle of life and death. Even being cremated here brings great merit, and it is not unusual to see relatives bringing bodies of loved ones on the roofs of buses for these sacred last rites.

A sadhu (holy ascetic) at his ashram / MATT MUNRO | LONELY PLANET

Venice // Italy Venice is a city of almost hallucinatory beauty. Built on water, there’s nowhere like it on earth – the Adriatic island city is a work of art, sometime capital of one of the great maritime republics, and one of the world’s cultural treasures.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Venice NICKNAME: La Serenissima; The Queen of the Adriatic DATE OF BIRTH: 5th and 6th centuries AD; when the islands of the Venetian lagoon were first settled during the barbarian invasions ADDRESS: Italy (map 4, N13) HEIGHT: 1m SIZE: 458 sq km POPULATION: 59,000 (city), 264,579 (including mainland Venice) ANATOMY Spread over more than a hundred islands linked by over 400 bridges and divided by some 150 canals, Venice is in many places a cramped and dark city, full of winding alleys and narrow waterways. Its astonishing colours and vibrancy suddenly become apparent in the plentiful open spaces and along the magnificent Grand Canal, the main artery of the city, which hums with traffic day and night. Few cities reward walkers so generously, and it’s a wonderful place to get lost. A vaporetto (water bus) is the other essential method of getting around, and it can be equally rewarding: you won’t find too many public transport routes as unforgettable as vaporetto No 1’s trip along the Grand Canal. Taking a ride in a gondola is corny and expensive… but, why not? Water taxis are almost as expensive, and their pilots don’t wear stripy shirts or sing ‘O Sole Mio’.

The Regata Storica (Historic Regatta) takes place on the Grand Canal / RORY MCDONALD | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Like most Italians, Venetians define themselves in terms of their locality first, while their nation comes second. Fiercely proud of their city they may be, but the population of Venice is sharply declining. Lack of jobs outside the tourist industry has led to many young people to the mainland, leaving the city with an ageing population. Another factor is housing. House prices – high enough already – are forced higher by large numbers of non-Venetians purchasing second homes here, locals renting their properties as holiday lets, and floods affecting the housing stock. Many Venetians working in the tourist industry have resorted to living on the mainland and commuting. The city tends to be busy with day trippers and quiet at night. However, despite the challenges of living in such a popular tourist haunt, most locals would agree that they wouldn’t want to be anywhere else. BEST TIME

The northern hemisphere autumn offers warm days, sparse crowds and low rates. Winter has chilly days and sociable nights. Spring is damp but lovely as ever indoors.

The Byzantine mosaic over the main entrance to the stunning Basilica di San Marco / PHILIP LEE HARVEY | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Taking a trip across the lagoon at dawn to see Piazza San Marco before the crowds, stopping off at a cafe to sip coffee, getting lost in the back alleys, discovering a magnificent church, vaporetto-hopping up and down the Grand Canal and munching some top-notch seafood for dinner. STRENGTHS • Its uniqueness, with its waterways, stunning beauty and history • The Giardini – Venice’s green lung beyond San Marco • The Lido beach • The annual film festival, where Hollywood royalty rub shoulders with the locals • The Venice Biennale, one of the best art shows on earth WEAKNESSES • The crowds • The smelly canals (particularly foul when they are being dredged) • The high prices

Stripy-shirted gondoliers ply the canals for their pleasure-seeking customers / JUSTIN FOULKES | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For the Venice Carnival, a once-in-a-lifetime experience that will thrill and exhaust in equal measure. Held in February or March, it sees the city party nonstop, although you’ll feel out of place if you haven’t spent a lot of time and money on your costume. STARRING ROLE IN… • Death in Venice (1971) • Don’t Look Now (1973) • Everyone Says I Love You (1996) • The Talented Mr Ripley (1999) • Casino Royale (2006) • The Merchant of Venice and Othello by Shakespeare IMPORT • Tourists, tourists and more tourists • Hollywood royalty (annually) • Artistic royalty (biennially) EXPORT • Murano glass • Marco Polo • Titian • Giacomo Casanova • Dramatist Carlo Goldoni • Vivaldi SEE the extraordinary interior of the Basilica di San Marco early in the morning before the crowds arrive. EAT superb seafood, but avoid anywhere with a menu turistico. DRINK the world’s most expensive espresso on Piazza San Marco.

DO try to get there for the Carnival, or one of Venice’s other big municipal celebrations. WATCH opera at the stunningly rebuilt La Fenice opera house. BUY Murano glass at bargain prices. AFTER DARK enjoy a world-famous Bellini (Venice’s native cocktail, made with champagne and peaches) at Harry’s Bar.

URBAN TALE The major sinking of the city occurred in the first half of the 20th century, when artesian wells were dug into the periphery of the lagoon to draw water for local industry. This caused subsidence, which has been enormously reduced since the banning of the wells in the 1960s. However, the city is allegedly still ‘sinking’ at a rate of 2mm per year and is at constant risk from the acqua alta – the high tides that come in regularly from the Adriatic. The long-delayed Mose Flood Barrier project, which should protect Venice from such floods, completes in 2018.

Romantic gondola for two / HELEN CATHCART | LONELY PLANET

Vienna // Austria Once the most sparkling gem in the Habsburg crown, Vienna remains a city of culture, class and beauty, famous for its palaces, opera and classical music; but peer behind its traditional facade and you’ll see experimental arts, world food and green living.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Vienna NICKNAME: The Imperial City DATE OF BIRTH: AD 8; when Vindobona was founded by the Romans ADDRESS: Austria (map 4, P11) HEIGHT: 203m SIZE: 415 sq km POPULATION: 1.77million ANATOMY The ‘blue’ Danube runs through Vienna, nudging the old city and most sights to the west. Heading south from the river, the Danube Canal creates one rim of the historic centre (Innere Stadt). In the middle of the river, the long Donauinsel offers beaches and playgrounds. The beloved Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) undulates to the west and north of the city. The greenery doesn’t stop there – over half the city comprises green spaces, equalling 120 sq m per resident. Trams trundle through the city, while the U-Bahn whizzes below ground.

The lavish Opernball (Opera Ball), held annually in the Staatsoper / BORGESE MAURIZIO | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Almost a third of today’s population (64%) hails from outside Austria, with 14% coming from other European countries and 22% from outside Europe. Sixty percent of the population is Roman Catholic; Muslims (6%), Protestants (4%) and Jews (0.5%) come next. Twenty-four percent of the population are atheist; 5.5% are other religions. BEST TIME Seasons have a strong influence on Vienna. July and August have the best weather but many restaurants, bars and smaller shops close for the Sommerpause (summer break). Spring (April to June), when Vienna’s parks and gardens fill with greenery, and early autumn (September to October), when leaves create dazzling displays, are ideal times to visit. November can be drizzly. The chilly winter months of December to March often bring snow, with ice-skating rinks set up outdoors, and enchanting Christkindlmärkte (Christmas markets) are held from around mid-November to Christmas Eve.

The dazzling tiled roof of Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral) / RELIGIOUS IMAGES/UIG | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Gazing at Schiele’s work in the Leopold Museum, before lapping up some sun in the MuseumsQuartier’s courtyard, lingering over a coffee at historic coffee house Café Sperl, then heading to the Old Danube for a leisurely swim and refuelling at a Heuriger (wine tavern). STRENGTHS • Magnificent imperial palaces such as Schönbrunn • Gothic Stephansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral) • Exceptional art, from Secessionism to avant-garde Viennese Actionism • Kaffeehäuser (coffee houses, aka ‘Vienna’s living rooms’) • Otto Wagner’s metro stations • Beisln (bistro pubs) • Würstelstände (sausage stands) • The Spanish Riding School and its Lipizzaner stallions • Staatsoper (Vienna’s main opera house) • Abundant cycle lanes • The Vienna Philharmonic • The Naschmarkt (Vienna’s most popular market) WEAKNESSES • Labyrinthine one-way traffic system • Low-lying neighbourhoods are prone to flooding GOLD STAR For some of the best opera and classical music in the world. Opera productions are lavish and formal and people dress up accordingly. STARRING ROLE IN… • The Third Man (1949) • The Man with Two Brains (1983) • Armadeus (1984) • Before Sunrise (1995)

• The Piano Teacher (2001) IMPORT • Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart • Wiener schnitzel (it’s believed to have originated in Milan) EXPORT • Helmut Lang • Josef Haydn • Franz Schubert • The waltz • Gustav Klimt • Ludwig Wittgenstein • Writer Peter Handke • Sigmund Freud • Riesling and Veltliner wines SEE as many museums as you can during the annual Lange Nacht der Museen (Long Night of Museums). EAT legendary Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) at Diglas. DRINK local wines in the Palmenhaus, a beautiful Jugendstil (Art-Nouveau) palm house, with high, arched ceilings, glass walls and steel beams. DO a bicycle tour of Vienna’s parks and waterways. WATCH the Vienna Boys’ Choir hitting celestial notes in the Hofburg’s Burgkapelle. BUY an exquisite, traditional porcelain ornament from Augarten Wien. AFTER DARK head to the hugely popular Volksgarten ClubDiskothek, spinning house music from a pavilion in the park.

URBAN TALE

Eduard Sacher, son Franz Sacher, the creator of the rich chocolate-andapricot-jam Sacher torte, began working at Demel cafe in 1934, bringing the original recipe for the cake and the sole distribution rights with him. Between 1938 and 1963 legal battles raged between Demel and Café Sacher over the trademark and title. An out-of-court settlement gave Café Sacher the rights to the phrase ‘Original Sacher Torte’, and Demel the rights to decorate its torte with a triangular seal reading ‘EduardSacher-Torte’. Both cafes still claim to be a cut above the other.

Historic Café Sperl is one of the finest coffee houses in Vienna / STEVE SPELLER | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Vilnius // Lithuania Gorgeous Vilnius is a city riddled with contrasts, simultaneously stately yet laid-back, sombre yet fun loving.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Vilnius NICKNAME: Jerusalem of the North DATE OF BIRTH: 1323; first recorded mention of the city, founded by Grand Duke Gediminas ADDRESS: Lithuania (map 4, T6) HEIGHT: 103m SIZE: 401 sq km POPULATION: 524,406 ANATOMY The historic and geographic heart of Vilnius is Gedimino kalnas (Gediminas Hill), site of the castle founded by Gediminas, ‘father’ of Lithuania. Rising above the junction of the Neris and Vilnia Rivers, the hill leads down to Katedros aikštė (Cathedral Sq), with the cathedral on the north and the cobbled Old Town streets (senamiestis) to the south. To the west, Gedimino prospektas (Gediminas Ave) cuts straight across the newer part of town to Parliament, while the train and bus stations lie just beyond the Old Town’s southern edge.

Hot-air balloons sail over the Vilnius rooftops / SABINE DE MILLIANO | 500PX

PEOPLE Lithuanians account for 63% of Vilnius’ inhabitants. Of the remainder, about 12% are Russian, 17% Polish and 9% from elsewhere. Lithuanian is the official language, though locals are willing to speak English, German and Russian (in stark contrast to Latvia and Estonia). Vilniusians are overwhelmingly Catholic, but this doesn’t hinder their love of eating, drinking and revelry. BEST TIME Undoubtedly, high summer (June to August) with its long, balmy evenings and wealth of festivals and free events, is the best time to visit. That said, Christmas and New Year among the ice and snow have a special charm in Vilnius. A PERFECT DAY Washing down hearty potato ‘zeppelins’ with Lithuanian lager before hiking up Gedimino kalnas to where it all began. Then getting lost in the cobbled

streets of the Old Town and the city’s wealth of baroque churches, artisanal studios and treasure-strewn galleries, finishing up at one of the buzzing local bars. STRENGTHS • World-Heritage listed baroque Old Town • Spires of Orthodox and Catholic churches • Bohemian locals • Eccentric bars in dim courtyards • Narrow cobbled streets • Gates of Dawn • Pilies gatvė (Castle St) • Museum of Applied Art • Long summer evenings when the beer and music flow • English signage (easy to navigate) • The artists’ Republic of Užupis, the Montmartre of Vilnius • Ausros Vartu gatvė • Great sense of humour • Beautifully laid out for cycling WEAKNESSES • Long, cold winters • Uncomfortable KGB jokes • Rising prices since joining the euro in 2015 • Western excesses – burgeoning strip clubs and casinos GOLD STAR For chocolate-box baroque – decadent and fragile, bohemian and tough, devilishly attractive Vilnius seduces visitors with its Old Town charm and a warm, wizened soul. STARRING ROLE IN… • Koridorius (The Corridor, 1995) • The Necklace of Wolf’s Teeth (1998) • The Assets (2014) • War and Peace (2015)

• The Book of Sorrow by Josif Levinson • Forest of the Gods by Balys Sruoga • Bohin Manor by Tadeusz Konwicki • The Theology of Rain by Alfonsas Nyka-Niliünas IMPORT • City-wide bicycle stations • Christianity (rather later than most of Europe) • Soviet-era architecture • Hipster bars and burger joints • Karaites (Turkic Jewish sect invited here by Grand Duke Vytautas in the 14th century) • Frank Zappa, as an adopted son • Tourists • Bohemians from abroad EXPORT • Folk art (particularly puppets, lace, jewellery and carved wooden crosses) • Some of Europe’s finest jazz musicians • Pianist Gintautas Abarius • Saxophonist Petras Vysniauskas • The Ganelin Trio • Amber SEE the treasure-trove of religious jewels on display at the Museum of Applied Art. EAT smoked pigs’ ears with a tankard of good Lithuanian beer at Būsi Trečias. DRINK Zalgiris Mead Balsam – a honey-based spirit with a modest 75% alcohol content. DO soar high above the spires in a hot-air balloon, in the self-declared capital of ballooning. WATCH the sun set over Vilnius’ Gothic-steepled skyline from the tower on

Gedimino kalnas. BUY traditional Lithuanian puppets, hand-made paper, clothes and handicrafts from Senųjų Amatų Dirbtuvės (the Old Crafts Workshop). AFTER DARK in summer catch live bands, DJs and (it seems) half of Vilnius’ under-30s at the buzzing Vasaros Terasa (Summer Terrace).

URBAN TALE According to legend, Vilnius was founded in the 1320s, when Lithuanian grand duke Gediminas, while camping on a hunting trip, dreamt of an iron wolf that howled with the voices of 100 wolves. His response was to build an impregnable city as mighty as their cry. In fact, the site had been occupied at least 1000 years before and was probably an important centre of power and trade.

A performance on the kanklės, a traditional Lithuanian instrument / JONATHAN SMITH | GETTY

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Warsaw // Poland This gritty city with a tragic past is looking future-wards with a newfound zest for life. Warsaw fascinates, breaks your heart, and then takes you out for an all-night vodka party.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Warsaw NICKNAME: ‘Phoenix city’ in recognition of the many times it has survived war, invasion and near-total destruction DATE OF BIRTH: The first recorded mention in 1313; King Sigismund III Vasa moved his court here from Krakow in 1569 ADDRESS: Poland (map 4, R8) HEIGHT: 106m SIZE: 517 sq km POPULATION: 1.7 million ANATOMY Warsaw straddles the Vistula River. On its left bank, the imposing Stalinist Palace of Culture and Science is a useful landmark: north of it are the Royal Way, the Old Town, and the New Town; south, the Diplomatic Quarter and Łazienki Park. On the river’s right bank is Praga, once a poorer district of workers and artisans, now full of hip galleries and bohemian bars.

Warsaw’s Old Town Sq is lined with beautiful historic buildings / RUDI1976 | ALAMY

PEOPLE Somewhere between 1 and 3% of Varsovians are foreign-born, with the most prominent groups being Ukrainian, Vietnamese, Armenian, Belorussian and Russian. Before World War II, Warsaw’s Jewish population accounted for around 30% of the total, around 350,000 people. Today, Warsaw has Poland’s largest Jewish population, estimated at around 2000. BEST TIME It’s best to avoid winter, when temperatures can go as low as -20°C. The rest of the year is mild, with average mid-summer temperatures of around 25°C. Summer also brings a multitude of events: riverside concerts, open-air cinemas, jazz in the Old Town Square and performances of Chopin’s music in Łazienki Park. To avoid summertime crowds, late spring and early autumn are also good times to visit.

Baroque Wilanów Palace and gardens / MARCIN KRZYZAK | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Soaking up the lively medieval atmosphere of the Old Town and meandering along the Royal Route to the magnificent Royal Castle. Dining on pierogi in a traditional Polish restaurant, and burning some of those carbs with a stroll through Łazienki Park. Sampling Warsaw’s emergent fine dining in the trendy Praga district, then bar-hopping the night away. STRENGTHS • Łazienki Park • Old Town Square • Pre-Euro prices • Wilanów Palace • Chopin Museum • Riverside nightlife • National Theatre performances • Neon Museum • ‘Milk bars’ (bar mleczny), Soviet-era canteens serving Polish specialties • Bazar na Kole (flea market and Warsaw institution) • Warsaw Uprising Museum • Pierogi (delicious stuffed dumplings) • Museum of the History of Polish Jews • Royal Castle • View from the tower of St Anne’s church WEAKNESSES • Taxi rip-offs • Palace of Culture & Science – considered by some to be a forbidding Stalinist eyesore GOLD STAR For the great talent of survival. After the city’s near-total destruction by the Nazis in 1944, with 85% of it left in ruins, it was completely rebuilt. It’s hard to believe now, when you’re standing in the picturesque ‘medieval’ Old Town with its ornate facades and charming squares, that it dates from

massive reconstruction efforts through the 1950s and ’60s. The prize for this incredible achievement: a Unesco World Heritage listing in 1980. STARRING ROLE IN… • Kanał (1956) • The Pianist by Władysław Szpilman; film (2002) IMPORT • Communism • Medical tourists EXPORT • Marie Curie • Amber • Vodka • The music of Fryderyk Chopin • The paintings of Tamara de Lempicka SEE the atmospheric Old Town – walk the Royal Route and take in the Old Town Market Square with its ornately painted (recreated) 17th-century merchant houses. EAT traditional, hearty food amid a whirl of good-natured Polish kitsch at Folk Gospoda. DRINK vodka everywhere, but particularly at Dom Wódki with its hundreds of varieties and vodka-matched menu. DO take a bicycle tour of the Old Town, or hire a bicycle for a DIY exploration of the magnificent, 76-hectare Łazienki Park. WATCH a classical music performance by the world-famous Warsaw Philharmonic Orchestra. BUY amber – ‘Baltic gold’ – from one of the many jewellers in the Old Town.

AFTER DARK explore the edgy dining and bohemian nightlife of the Praga district.

URBAN TALE The Warsaw Uprising of 1944 was a heroic, tragic struggle by the Polish resistance to liberate Warsaw from Nazi occupation. After fighting the German forces for 63 days with little outside support they were finally defeated; the city was almost completely demolished in retribution.

Entrance hall of the exceptional Museum of the History of Polish Jews / KRZYSZTOF DYDYNSKI | GETTY IMAGES

Washington DC // United States Washington, DC is full of iconic monuments and museums, and it’s one of North America’s buzziest food capitals to boot.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Washington, DC NICKNAME: DC; Capital City DATE OF BIRTH: 1791; when Congress chose the site for the new federal capital ADDRESS: USA (map 2, Q6) HEIGHT: 22m SIZE: 177 sq km (city, 14,412 sq km (metro) POPULATION: 672,000 (city), 6 million (metro area) ANATOMY The city lies at the last navigable point on the Potomac River, where the coastal plain meets a higher, rockier plateau. The latter is the setting for DC’s wealthy residents; monumental Washington sits on the coastal lowlands. It’s a city of gridded streets and diagonal avenues radiating from ceremonial squares and elegant circles. The city proper is small, with much of the metropolitan population of around six million living in the Virginia and Maryland suburbs. The centre has wide sidewalks and few highways, ideal for walking to many destinations, and the subway is convenient for reaching most hot spots.

Spring blooms around the Tidal Basin and Washington Monument / SEANPAVONEPHOTO | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Of DC’s residents, 48% are black, 36% white, 11% Latino, 4% Asian and 1% Native American. Around 13% are foreign-born. In recent years, the city has seen a surge in its overall population, especially millennials. DC is a company town – the ‘company’ in this case being government – with more than a third of Washingtonians working in the public sector. BEST TIME Late March to May the weather is lovely and the cherry blossoms let loose. June and July are hot and crowded but festival laden. September to November has fewer tourists, though business travellers keep hotel rates high. December twinkles with the National Christmas Tree Lighting and holiday concerts.

The enormous Beaux Arts-style main hall at Union Station / IMAGEBROKER | ALAMY

A PERFECT DAY Breakfasting at Jimmy T’s diner on Capitol Hill, wandering past the Capitol and on down the Mall, picking a museum to explore before paying your respects at the Vietnam and Lincoln memorials, strolling along the Potomac to sweet treats at Baked & Wired in Georgetown, seeing the free 6pm show at the Kennedy Center, and then spending the evening in nightlife-rich Shaw. STRENGTHS • Smithsonian Institution’s free museums • Vietnam Veterans Memorial • Lincoln Memorial • National Gallery of Art • International Spy Museum • Capitol Hill • The White House • Library of Congress • National Archives • Union Station • Happening food scene • Arlington National Cemetery • National Cherry Blossom Festival • National Arboretum • Eastern Market • Union Market WEAKNESSES • The contrived grandeur of Graeco-Roman monuments • The long ride in from Dulles airport • The hot air – humidity in summer and from the politicians • High food and lodging prices • Not much stays open late

A lively street performance / COAST-TO-COAST | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For the National Mall, with its monuments and museums to occupy visitors for days. It’s a history lesson in sod and stone, with a wide expanse of green that stretches from the Potomac in the west to Capitol Hill in the east. It is the scene of protests and celebrations, lined with gravel paths and bordered by tree-shaded avenues. STARRING ROLE IN… • Mr Smith Goes to Washington (1939) • All the President’s Men (1976) • Patriot Games (1992) • In the Line of Fire (1993) • Dave (1993) • The American President (1995)

• Primary Colors (1998) • Enemy of the State (1998) • The West Wing (TV series 1999–2006) • VEEP (TV series 2012–) • Scandal (TV series 2012–) • House of Cards (TV series 2013–) • Lost in the City by Edward Jones IMPORT • Woodward and Bernstein • Ambitious politicians • Wily bureaucrats • Glib lobbyists • Eager interns • Presidents of varying quality • Embassies • Journalists • Worldly diplomats EXPORT • Portentous rhetoric • CIA operatives • National Public Radio • Half-smokes (like hot dogs only meatier and smokier) • Government regulations SEE Abe gaze peacefully across the Mall from the hallowed, Doriccolumned Lincoln Memorial. EAT with the locals, downing half-smokes and gossiping over sweet iced tea at Ben’s Chili Bowl. DRINK Scotch with politicians and lobbyists, cutting deals in the Round Robin bar. DO cycle to George Washington’s estate past aeroplanes, marshes and birds

on the Mt Vernon Trail. WATCH the Racing Presidents vie for supremacy at a Washington Nationals baseball game. BUY souvenirs, from rubber Nixon masks to shredded money, at the Bureau of Printing and Engraving. AFTER DARK hit the long stretch of hot-chef bars and restaurants on 14th St in Logan Circle.

URBAN TALE Washington was torched by British troops in the War of 1812, and although the Capitol was eventually rebuilt, the city entered a slump from which it wouldn’t recover for decades. A dispirited vote to abandon the capital lost by only nine votes.

The IM Pei–designed east building of the staggering National Gallery of Art / ARCAID IMAGES | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Wellington // New Zealand With its compact city centre, small bar scene, and distinctive timber architecture, New Zealand’s beautiful and blustering capital has long been one of the country’s best cities to inhabit.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Wellington NICKNAME: Windy Welly DATE OF BIRTH: 1840; when European settlers arrived to purchase land from the Māori inhabitants ADDRESS: New Zealand (map 1, RR22) HEIGHT: 127m SIZE: 290 sq km (city), 1388 sq km (metro area) POPULATION: 204,000 (city), 409,200 (metro area) ANATOMY Wellington’s harbour sits between two peninsulas at the southern tip of New Zealand’s North Island. Ferries regularly cross the Cook Strait from here to South Island. The main business street, Lambton Quay, used to sit on the waterfront but is now separated from the sea by reclaimed land. The city centre is bounded by the train station, at the northern end of Lambton Quay, and Cambridge and Kent Terrace to the southeast. The historic and embassy area of Thornton lies just north of the centre. Wellington has an efficient local-bus system and suburban trains.

Wellington’s cable car makes its way to the Botanic Gardens / VICTOR MASCHEK | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE New Zealand is a bicultural nation and Māori and English are the official languages. For most of Wellington’s population at least one of these (probably English) is their mother tongue, but the number of inhabitants who have moved here from overseas is on the increase – particularly from Asia and the Pacific Islands. BEST TIME The southern hemisphere summer is a great time to visit, with Fringe NZ, the New Zealand International Sevens rugby and warm, stable weather. From June to August it gets cold and windy, but you can stay indoors for the New Zealand International Film Festival. In September book beds early – the World of WearableArt design festival consumes the city.

Wellingtonians love their coffee and the cafe lifestyle / PETE SEAWARD | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Taking a stroll around the Botanic Gardens before riding the cable car down to town for a freshly brewed coffee, getting behind the scenes at Weta Workshops then chasing the perfect drop at one of the many craft beer bars. STRENGTHS • Film making and film touring • Te Papa (Museum of New Zealand) • Zealandia project, the world’s first fully-fenced urban ecosanctuary • Government Buildings – among the world’s largest all-wooden buildings • Beehive – the architectural emblem of New Zealand • Katherine Mansfield’s birthplace • Botanic Gardens • Red cable car • View of the city from Mt Victoria • Mountain biking at Makara Peak • More cafes per capita than New York City • Paddle boarding, sailing, and windsurfing (make the most of that wind) WEAKNESSES • Houses are rarely insulated • Wellington is on a fault line, no-one knows when it will quake • Windy weather a blessing and a curse • It’s very hilly if you’re not used to climbing

The City to Sea Bridge and public artwork connects Civic Sq to the waterfront / WOLFGANG KAEHLER | GETTY IMAGES

GOLD STAR For arts and culture on tap. From craft beer to arts and crafts, Wellington supports a host of independent creatives flying their home-grown flags with pride. STARRING ROLE IN… • Lord of the Rings trilogy (2001-03) • King Kong (2005) • The Hobbit trilogy (2012-14) • Pete’s Dragon (2016) IMPORT • Director Peter Jackson • Architect Ian Athfield • International movie stars on location • Rugby fans

EXPORT • Director Taika Waititi • Director Jane Campion • Author Katherine Mansfield • Director Lee Tamahori • Author Catherine Chidgey • Rugby players SEE exhibits revealing New Zealand’s history and experience an earthquake at the fabulous Te Papa museum. EAT fresh fish and chips from The Chippery in Mt Vic or Thorndon. DRINK Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc at Toast Martinborough, a food, wine and music bonanza. DO take a ride in Wellington’s red cable car up to the Botanic Gardens. WATCH live music in Wellington’s oldest venue that keeps on delivering the goods: Bodega. BUY Kiwi fashion and cool gifts on Cuba St. AFTER DARK take your pick of the bars and clubs on Courtenay Place and Cuba St.

URBAN TALE Japanese aircraft carrying submarines travelled through Cook Strait during World War II on reconnaissance missions looking for American warships to sink. When a Japanese aeroplane was spotted over Wellington in 1942 the locals had visions of being made to pull rickshaws up Melrose Hill by their new colonisers, if the war was lost. That’s quite a climb!

Sculptures outside the excellent Te Papa museum / GERARD WALKER | GETTY IMAGES

Willemstad // Curaçao While it’s famous for its kaleidoscope of Dutch colonial buildings, Willemstad is more than pretty facades. This city, the epicentre of Curaçao’s multifaceted culture, bubbles with energy and art, inviting those who look to get lost in its winding streets.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Willemstad DATE OF BIRTH: 1634; founded with the construction of Fort Amsterdam ADDRESS: Curaçao (map 3, M7) HEIGHT: 1m SIZE: 117 sq km POPULATION: 145,000 ANATOMY Willemstad is a sprawling city that takes up a significant portion of the island’s southern half – at its centre you’ll find its renowned Unesco World Heritage site, which gives way to large swathes of residential and business areas as you travel outwards. Downtown Willemstad straddles the famous and oft-photographed Sint Anna Bay; the densest collection of the city’s famous architecture lines the water’s edge, and visitors can hop back and forth between shores via the Queen Emma pontoon bridge. The city’s oldest neighbourhood, Punda, acts as a touristic centre; head east and you’ll run into the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Pietermaai, a happening section of the city full of bars, restaurants and street art. Otrobanda (literally meaning ‘other side’ in the local language, Papamientu), located on the western side of the bay, is frequented by locals and hums with activity, especially on the weekends.

A ferry plies the waters of Sint Anna Bay / CARIBBEAN | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

PEOPLE Curaçao’s long and varied history continues to manifest in Willemstad’s culture today. Most locals speak several languages – Papamientu, Dutch, English and Spanish are used regularly – and residents are largely of mixed ethnicity, with Dutch, Latin American and Jewish ethnic groups well represented. Most locals work in the tourism, service, petroleum and transport industries. BEST TIME Thanks to its convenient location outside of the Caribbean hurricane belt, Willemstad’s weather is sunny, warm and dry most of the year. Visitors will find cheaper hotel rates during the shoulder seasons (October to November and March to June), but it’s worth braving high season to check out the city’s Carnival in February.

A statue of Dr Moises Frumencio da Costa Gomez, first Prime Minister of the former Netherlands Antilles / JUNIOR BRAZ | SHUTTERSTOCK

A PERFECT DAY Before it gets too hot, taking a tour of Willemstad’s historic district to learn about the city’s origin and the secrets behind its eye-catching buildings. At lunch time heading over to the Floating Market for a quick snack or stop in at Plasa Bieu, where local chefs serve up island favourites such as goat stew or grilled conch, topped off with a fruit juice from the nearby batido stand. Spending the afternoon at the Kura Hulanda Museum, which explains the history of the slave trade in the Caribbean (in which Curaçao played a central role), then heading over to trendy Pietermaai for a sundowner and a bite to eat at a beachside bar before hitting the local clubs to dance the night away. STRENGTHS • Historic buildings • Unique street art • Good culinary scene • Live music every night of the week • Accessible from nearby resorts • Friendly locals • Numerous art galleries • Nearby beaches WEAKNESSES • Expensive taxis • Lack of green space • Crowded when cruise ships dock • Traffic can be slow moving in and out of the city GOLD STAR For walkability – Willemstad is easily navigable on foot, and such exploration reveals many hidden corners, most of them covered with striking murals. STARRING ROLE IN…

• The House of Six Doors by Patricia Selbert • The Book of Tula by Curtis Holt Hawkins IMPORT • Various cultures (Latin American, Caribbean, Dutch, African, Spanish, Portuguese, Jewish) • Amstel Bright lager • Cruise ships • Venezuelan produce • Scuba divers EXPORT • Blue curaçao • Ritmo kombina, the local music genre • Petroleum products • Baseball player Andruw Jones • Krioyo cuisine • The word ‘dushi’, meaning ‘sweet’ or ‘nice’ SEE the colourful Handelskade waterfront along Sint Anna Bay glow in the warm light of a Caribbean sunset. EAT iguana with a side of plantain pancakes at Plasa Bieu in Punda. DRINK a blue-tinted cocktail made with the island’s signature liqueur at the Landhuis Chobolobo curaçao distillery. DO peer down on technicolor fish darting among the coral branches at any number of the beaches surrounding Willemstad. WATCH talented jazz musicians entertain energetic crowds at live music venues across the city. BUY a colourful art print from a local artist at one of Willemstad’s several downtown galleries. AFTER DARK head to hip Pietermaai to find live music and dancing in the

neighbourhood’s cobblestone streets.

URBAN TALE Until 1934, the Queen Emma Bridge, fondly known as the ‘Swinging Old Lady’, exacted a two-cent toll from individuals wearing shoes. As a result, many would remove and hide their footwear to avoid paying, but others would strut across fully dressed as an indicator of personal wealth.

The sunny facade of the Cathedral of Willemstad / ALEXANDER LUDWIG | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Windhoek // Nambia An African capital city it may be, but Windhoek is anything but overwhelming – instead its walkable, well-groomed streets and mix of glass skyscrapers and quirky colonial architecture offer a warm embrace.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Windhoek DATE OF BIRTH: 1890; founded when the Germans built a fort as a buffer between the Nama and Herero peoples ADDRESS: Namibia (map 1, Y19) HEIGHT: 1660m SIZE: 645 sq km POPULATION: 325,858 ANATOMY Found in the heart of the country, Windhoek and its Neo-Gothic cathedral spires and seemingly misplaced German castles blanket a series of low hills. Central Windhoek is bisected by Independence Ave, where most shopping and administrative functions are concentrated. Zoo Park, beside the main post office, provides a green lawn and shady lunch spots. The city is easy to walk around and shared or private taxis will get you further afield.

The Christuskirche is Windhoek’s best-recognised landmark / FELIX LIPOV | SHUTTERSTOCK

PEOPLE Pulling in people of all ethnic groups from across the country, Windhoek has the most diversified population in Namibia. Of the two-thirds that are of African descent, the Owambo – Namibia’s largest tribe – makes up the biggest proportion. The percentage of those with European heritage (17%) and other races (18%, including mixed) is almost triple the national figure. Over 80% of the populace is Christian, with more than half of them being Lutheran. BEST TIME With an average of 11 hours of sunshine a day, and temperatures varying between 22°C and 29°C, October is wonderful time to visit. Oktoberfest also erupts at month end. A PERFECT DAY Waking in Heinitzburg Castle (now Hotel Heinitzburg), then wandering up Robert Mugabe Ave to explore the country’s past at the national museum.

Before picnicking for lunch in Zoo Park, visiting the must-see NeoGothic/Art Nouveau Christuskirche – Windhoek’s unofficial symbol. Spending the afternoon in the vicinity of Independence Ave, while checking out colonial architecture and the Old Breweries Craft Market, then finishing with dinner and a drink at the institution that is Joe’s Beerhouse. STRENGTHS • Wildlife walks (Daan Viljoen Game Park) • Neo-Gothic, Art Nouveau and colonial architecture • Museums • Art galleries • Oktoberfest • Picnicking (Zoo Park) • Live music • Nightlife • Craft markets • Cleanliness • Pedestrian-friendly streets • Relatively safe and hassle free during daylight hours • Dry, clean air and pleasant climate WEAKNESSES • Lack of good breakfast/brunch eateries • Lack of public transportation • Petty theft GOLD STAR For the welcoming respite it offers those returning from the true wilds of Africa. And for offering the wilds too, with walking safaris just outside town in Daan Viljoen Game Park. STARRING ROLE IN… • My Father’s Son (2010) • Katutura (2015) IMPORT

• Gibeon Meteorite • Oktoberfest • Gothic, baroque and Art Nouveau architecture • German castles • Brad Pitt and Angelia Jolie (when they were still Brangelina) • Lutheran Church • Bratwurst • The Milky Way and Southern Cross each evening EXPORT • Windhoek Lager • Paulus ‘The Hitman’ Moses • Ray Poulter (The Social Network) • Biltong • Ostrich egg souvenirs SEE the strange architectural fusion of castle and religious architecture, with a Teutonic twist, at Christuskirche – it’s particularly grand in the lateafternoon sun. EAT a perfectly seared kudu, gemsbok or ostrich steak within the cosy, yet cavernous confines of Joe’s Beergarden. DRINK a cold pint of Windhoek Lager, what else? DO a walking safari though the scenic, thorn-scrub covered hills of Daan Viljoen Game Park, spotting mountain zebras, springbok, hartebeests, warthogs, elands, gemsbok, kudu and a colourful array of birdlife. WATCH in pleasure as the air fills with emotive notes from a live African music performance in the Warehouse Theatre. BUY some original baskets, carvings or fabric creations from Penduka, a nonprofit women’s needlework project. AFTER DARK wade into the crowds on the dance floor at the Boiler Room @ The Warehouse Theatre.

URBAN TALE Although Windhoek was formally inaugurated in 1890, settlements have long existed here. Archaeologists have even uncovered the remains of an elephant hunt from 5000 to 20,000 years ago. What made the area ripe for humans was its natural springs. Early names for Windhoek were Otjomuise (‘Place of Steam’) and /Ai//Gams (‘Hot Springs’) in the Otjiherero and Khoekhoe dialects, respectively. Water is still an issue for the modern city, and since 1968 it has been the only city in the world to reclaim water directly from domestic sewage effluent.

Local schoolgirls make their way home / BLICKWINKEL | ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Yangon // Myanmar Situated in the fertile delta country of southern Myanmar on the Yangon River, Yangon is a city of golden pagodas, grand colonial edifices, newly rising skyscrapers, traffic-choked roads and streets packed with hordes of stalls selling delicious food.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Yangon (formerly Rangoon) NICKNAME: The Garden City of the East DATE OF BIRTH: 1755; when King Alaungpaya conquered central Myanmar and built a city on the site which at that time was known as Dagon ADDRESS: Myanmar (Burma) (map 6, I8) HEIGHT: 6m SIZE: 400 sq km POPULATION: 5.2 million ANATOMY Downtown Yangon, the colonial hub of Myanmar’s one-time capital, is easy to navigate. The main streets are set in grids and the best way to plot a course is to flag down a taxi, hop in a trishaw or walk. Yangon’s battered buses are crowded but colourful. Above it all rises golden Shwedagon Paya, the country’s most important Buddhist temple.

The golden spires of Shwedagon Paya, the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar / CRAIG EASTON | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The government recognises 135 distinct ethnic groups, but the majority of Yangon’s citizens (68%) are Bamar. A small portion of the population is Shan and even fewer are Karen, Rakhine, Indian, Mon and Chinese. While Buddhists comprise around 88% of the population, Muslims, animists and Christians make up the rest of its religions, along with a handful of other indigenous beliefs. BEST TIME Between November and February offers the most pleasant weather. This is when the heat of the day is tolerable and the evenings are often cool. Prices at hotels drop during the wet season from June to October and this isn’t too bad a time to visit either as the showers are often short lived and rarely cause much inconvenience.

A street-side vegetable stall in the market district / ASANKA BRENDON RATNAYAKE | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Slurping mohinga (a fish-based noodle-soup) for breakfast at a street stall; shopping for crafts, such as Chin textiles and fine lacquerware from Bagan at the Bogyoke Aung San Market; paying your respects at the dazzling gilded compound of the Shwedagon Paya, then taking a stroll around Kandawdgyi Lake; winding down with a beer and grilled snacks at the open-air restaurants on 19th St. STRENGTHS • Shwedagon Paya • Shrines to nat (animist spirits) • British colonial architecture on leafy streets • Lakeside parks • Traditional tea shops • Craft shops and markets

WEAKNESSES • Limited nightlife – most bars close by 11pm • Traffic-clogged streets • Betel nut–spit on the ground • Slow internet connections GOLD STAR For Shwedagon Paya, the most sacred of Buddhist sites in Myanmar and the highlight of a trip to Yangon. Kipling once called it ‘a golden mystery…a beautiful winking wonder’. The glittering, gold-leaf covered stupa is said to contain eight strands of Buddha’s hair. STARRING ROLE IN… • River of Lost Footsteps (2006) • The Lady (2011) • Golden Parasol (2013) • Yangon Calling (2013) • Burma’s Spring (2016) IMPORT • George Orwell • Hip-hop • Rudyard Kipling • Chinese-style buildings • Mobile phones • Cars EXPORT • Shan shoulder bags (seen on a Southeast Asian traveller near you) • Poetry • The father of modern Burmese art, Aung Myint • Myanmar Times, the best local English newspaper • Gilded marionettes • Bagan lacquerware • Pathein waxed-paper parasols

SEE the setting sun turn the golden stupa of Shwedagon Paya into burnt orange and flaming crimson. EAT lethouq – a spicy salad of raw vegetables dressed with lime juice, onions, peanuts, chillies and a variety of spices. DRINK lahpeq ye (black tea served with a dollop of condensed milk) at Rangoon Teahouse or any one of Yangon’s renowned tea shops. DO take the ferry to Dalah from Pansodan Jetty for a 10-minute cruise on the Yangon River. WATCH an impromptu game of chinlon (cane ball) on any street at any time of day and watch the players perform gravity-defying pirouettes. BUY a longyi (the Myanmar version of the sarong) from the sprawling Bogyoke (Scott) Market. AFTER DARK hit 19th St between Mahanbandoola and Anawratha Rds to snack on grilled food and down draught beers at the many open-air stalls.

URBAN TALE During the New Year water festival, Thingyan, it’s not uncommon to walk around Yangon soaked to the bone after a drenching by a local. The belief is that the water will purify the believer both spiritually and physically for the coming year. Taking it that one step further, the Yangonese may purchase live fish and cows and release them into rivers or sanctuaries on Thingyan Ah-Tet Day (the final day of the festival). For extra karmic points, kids like to wash an old person’s hair – you get bonus points if you wash their body as well.

Crumbling colonial architecture is everywhere / ASANKA BRENDON RATNAYAKE | GETTY IMAGES

Yerevan // Armenia Yerevan is the cultural heart of the Armenian people, one of the surviving ancient peoples of the Near East; it is a proud, cultured and enterprising city stunningly situated in the mountainous realm of the Caucasus.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Yerevan DATE OF BIRTH: 782 BC; when King Argishti built the town fortress of Erebuni on the Ararat Plain ADDRESS: Armenia (map 5, K2) HEIGHT: 990m SIZE: 210 sq km POPULATION: 1.1 million ANATOMY The centre of Yerevan sits on the east bank of the Hrazdan River. Streets are arranged in a strict grid system, and most of the inner-city action occurs in the stretch between monument-edged Republic Sq (Hanrapetutyan Hraparak) and busy Opera Sq to its north. The city itself is surrounded on three sides by mountains. To the southwest stands Mt Ararat, holy mountain of the Armenian people, just across the Turkish border. The city’s public transport includes a metro with five city stops, buses, electric trolleybuses and plenty of marshrutky (minibuses).

Holy Mt Ararat overlooks the city / GORELCHYAN | 500PX

PEOPLE Yerevan is populated almost entirely by Armenians, some of whom have returned to the city after long stints living overseas. Most are members of the Armenian Apostolic Church, one of the world’s oldest Christian communities. The city’s culture is difficult to catagorise, being influenced by both Russia and the West (particularly the USA). Some lifestyles are anchored by traditional Southern Caucasian values and taste; others embrace glitzy, consumer-driven lifestyles à la Moscow or Los Angeles. Most locals cannot achieve the latter, as wages are low and unemployment is rife. The main languages are Armenian and Russian. BEST TIME The northern hemisphere spring and autumn are the best times to visit, as the weather is temperate. Summer brings blistering heat when locals stay inside during the day but take to the streets, parks and squares when the sun goes down. This makes sightseeing a chore but compensates with loads of enjoyable outdoor wining, dining and entertainment options after dark.

Winter brings snow, ice and bitterly cold winds.

The formal sculpture gardens of the Cascade, housing the Cafesjian Center for the Arts / JUSTIN FOULKES | LONELY PLANET

A PERFECT DAY Joining the crowds to enjoy the summer-only musical fountain in Republic Sq; admiring historic documents and manuscripts in exquisitely elaborate Armenian script at the Matenadaran; being confronted with narratives of Armenia’s traumatic recent past at the Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum; climbing the Cascade to visit the various spaces of the Cafesjian Center for the Arts; café hopping around Opera Sq on a summer night or hunkering down in a trendy wine bar on a winter’s evening. STRENGTHS • Atmospheric cafés at every turn • Museums and galleries galore • Easy day trips to top-drawer attractions including Geghard Monastery, Garni Temple and the Mother See of Holy Echmiadzin • Intriguing atmosphere – a city poised between East and West, Europe and Asia • Raucous but welcoming pandoks (taverns) serving Armenia’s national dish, khoravats (barbecue) WEAKNESSES • Vodka toasts – ubiquitous and great fun, but dangerous! • Regular power blackouts • Bitterly cold winters • Soviet-style customer service (or lack thereof) • Historic neighbourhoods being razed and unsympathetically redeveloped by local oligarchs GOLD STAR For the impact of the arts on everyday life – the city has a large number of museums celebrating local artists. There’s also a strongly bohemian flavor to the café and bar scene and a popular outdoor handicrafts market where local artisans sell their creations.

STARRING ROLE IN… • Calendar (1993) • An Armenian Sketchbook by Vasily Grossman • Among the Russians by Colin Thubron • The Crossing Place by Philip Marsden • Imperium by Ryszard Kapuscinski IMPORT • Armenians – returning children of the diaspora • Ancient manuscripts, collected together at the Matenadaran • Classy European-style wine bars pouring French, Italian and New World wines EXPORT • Armenians – the nation’s traumatic past and economic doldrums have seen massive emigration over the past century • Cognac – it really is world class • Soccer star Henrikh Mkhitaryan • Actress Angela Sarafyan SEE the extraordinary Bronze Age artefacts at the History Museum of Armenia. EAT khoravats (barbecued lamb or pork). DRINK Armenian cognac – smooth and potent. DO make the short trek to the confronting but unmissable Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum. WATCH a ballet or opera at the Yerevan Opera Theatre. BUY local handicrafts and lacework at the Vernissage Market. AFTER DARK check out the bars, cafes and clubs around Opera Sq.

URBAN TALE The National Chamber Orchestra of Armenia was formed in 1997. At their first meeting (held in a public square) there weren’t enough chairs for all members to sit down. By 1998 they had released their first CD; by 2003 they had toured three continents.

The symbolic split spire at the Armenian Genocide Memorial & Museum / JUSTIN FOULKES | LONELY PLANET

Yogyakarta // Indonesia If Jakarta is Java’s financial and industrial powerhouse, Yogyakarta is its soul: central to the island’s artistic and intellectual heritage, it’s where the Javanese language is most widespread, Javanese arts are at their brightest and Javanese traditions at their most visible and enchanting.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Yogyakarta NICKNAME: Yogya or Jogja DATE OF BIRTH: 1755; when Prince (later Sultan) Mangkumbi built the Kraton of Yogyakarta ADDRESS: Indonesia (map 1, JJ17) HEIGHT: 106m SIZE: 32.5 sq km POPULATION: 388,627 ANATOMY Jalan (Jl) Malioboro, named after the Duke of Marlborough, is Yogya’s main road, running from the train station to the kraton (walled palace) at the far end. The road becomes Jl A Yani further south, but is generally referred to as Jalan Malioboro. The tourist office and many souvenir shops and stalls are along this street and most of the budget places to stay are west of it, in the Jl Sosrowijayan area near the railway line. The old, walled kraton is the centre of old Yogya, where you will also find the Taman Sari (Water Castle), Pasar Ngasem (Bird Market) and numerous batik galleries. While easy to navigate, it is impossible to go to any tourist areas without being greeted by becak (auto-rickshaw) drivers. Regular taxis are metered and efficient.

Small stupas at the astounding ancient Buddhist temple, Borobudur / VICNT | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE With its mix of Javanese, Sundanese and Madurese peoples, Yogya’s main languages are Javanese, Sundanese, Madurese and Bahasa Indonesian. While the predominant religion is Muslim, there are Hindu, Buddhist and Christian minorities. BEST TIME As a tropical city located close to the equator, Yogyakarta enjoys hot and humid weather year-round. The wet season generally stretches from October to March, with the heaviest rainfall between December and February – it’s best to avoid travel during these months. June to September, with very little rain and temperatures ranging from 25 to 33°C, are the best months to visit.

A classical Indonesian dance performance at the kraton / ULET IFANSASTI | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Scoffing down a street-stall gudeg (Yogya’s signature dish: it’s sweet and made with jackfruit, coconut and eggs among other ingredients), on the way to a morning of hunting bargains at the traditional market, Pasar Beringharjo. Exploring the walled city of the kraton, a fascinating sultan’s palace with its own market, shops, schools and mosques. At night, joining the locals sitting on the sidewalk to eat a lesehan-style dinner of seafood, fried chicken, and other traditional dishes, then being enchanted by one of the many wayang kulit (shadow-puppet) plays. STRENGTHS • The kraton • The Gerebeg festivals • Pasar Beringharjo (Yogya’s main market) • Pasar Ngasem (the Bird Market) • The Dutch-era fort Benteng Vredeburg • First-class Javanese art

• Shadow-puppet plays • Museum Kareta Kraton • Sumptuous spices • The Affandi Museum • Purawisata amusement park • Kota Gede • Museum Sansana Wiratama WEAKNESSES • ‘Last chance’ batik scammers • Copycat batik painting galleries • Bag snatchers • Bike bandits • Pickpockets

Decorated pillars from the Bangsal Kencana (Golden Pavilion) in the kraton / PHILIP LEE HARVEY | LONELY PLANET

GOLD STAR For location – aside from being Java’s premier tourist city, Yogya is an ideal base for exploring nearby attractions, including Indonesia’s most important archaeological sites, Borobudur and Prambanan Temples. STARRING ROLE IN… • Agung Gives Ivor a Haircut (1991) • The Becak Driver – Superimposed (1998) IMPORT • Tourism • Burger joints • Big hotels EXPORT • Affandi (Indonesia’s best-known artist) • Batik • Silverwork • Leather puppets and wooden masks • Traditional and contemporary Javanese art SEE scores of budgerigars, orioles, roosters, singing turtledoves and pigeons, in ornamental cages at Pasar Ngasem on the edge of Taman Sari. EAT anything from nasi goreng to greasy-spoon fry-ups at the FM Café on Jl Sosrowijayan, with stacks of atmosphere and an eclectic, well-priced menu. DRINK draught Heineken with homesick Hollanders at JL Coffee House, the Dutch café on Jl Suryodiningratan, a venerable traveller and expat haunt. DO marvel at the restored 1760s bathing pools in the Taman Sari, and imagine the sultan and harem members relaxing in this one-time pleasure park.

WATCH the spectacular Ramayana ballet held in the open air at Prambanan in the dry season. BUY exquisite leatherwork, batik bags, topeng (masks) and wayang golek (wooden puppets) from all over the archipelago in Jl Malioboro. AFTER DARK wayang kulit performances can be seen at several places around Yogya every night.

URBAN TALE In the kraton’s southern square are two similar banyan trees, which are said to bring great fortune if you walk through them without mishap while blindfolded. The kraton is closed on national holidays and for special ceremonies, yet batik touts after a bonanza of their own will advise it’s closed to lure you to Taman Sari and a batik gallery.

A cycle-rickshaw passes through a gate to old Yogya / PHILIP LEE HARVEY | LONELY PLANET

York // England The stout walls and twisting streets of this two-thousand-year-old gem still seem to ring with the footsteps of the Romans, Vikings, Anglo-Saxons and Normans who have walked them down the centuries.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: York NICKNAME: Eoforwic (‘wild-boar town’) to the Anglo-Saxons; Jorvik (‘horse bay’) to the Vikings DATE OF BIRTH: AD 71; inhabited since prehistoric times, but founded as a fortress by the Romans, on the lands of the Celtic Brigantes ADDRESS: England (map 4, G6) HEIGHT: 13m SIZE: 272 sq km POPULATION: 153,717 ANATOMY Compact, pedestrianised and begging for exploration by foot or cycle, York has five major landmarks: the longest intact set of city walls in England; the Minster at the northern corner; Clifford’s Tower at the southern end; the River Ouse that cuts the centre in two; and the train station to the west. To avoid understandable confusion, remember that in these parts ‘gate’ means street and ‘bar’ means gate. With thousands of listed buildings and ancient monuments within 20 minutes’ walk of one another, it’s no wonder York is one of England’s most visited cities.

The Shambles, Britain’s most picturesque Tudor street / ANDREW PICKETT | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE Traditional York has a very traditional demographic for a major English city, with white Brits making up over 90% of the population. And, although the coming of the University of York in 1963 promised a ‘return of the young people’, its demography bulges at both ends, with higher proportions of young and older people than elsewhere in the UK. Added to the inevitable streak of regional pride that most Yorkies exhibit is a strong civic identity. The tourism industry here employs over 20,000, directly and indirectly, but the average man-or-woman-in-the-street is often just as proud to show off their city.

BEST TIME June to August is summer, with peak temperatures, daylight hours and crowds. September and October are still warm, light and dry, and you won’t be fighting such a throng.

The kings of England memorialised at York Minster / DE AGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Marvelling at the tennis court–sized stained-glass Great East Window at York Minster before enduring the vertiginous climb of 275 steps to the awesome central tower (the heart of the Minster). Following the city walls clockwise to Monk Bar, York’s best-preserved medieval gate, before

following your nose to the nearest traditional pub. STRENGTHS • Oodles of history • York Castle Museum • York Minster • Museum Gardens • The Shambles • Clifford’s Tower • Narrow snickets (alleyways) • Jorvik Viking Centre • Easily negotiable on foot • National Railway Museum • Medieval churches WEAKNESSES • Summertime traffic congestion • Severe flooding from the River Ouse • Demented tourism in the high summer season • Wet, chilly winters that last at least a month too long GOLD STAR For resilience: garrisoned by the Romans, ravaged by Vikings, besieged by Parliamentarian forces in the Civil War of 1644 and bombed by the Nazis in the ‘Baedeker Blitz’ of 1942, York has stood for almost 2000 years, a living museum and a true diamond in England’s crown. STARRING ROLE IN… • Elizabeth (1998) • Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone (2001) • All Creatures Great and Small by James Herriot • Behind the Scenes at the Museum by Kate Atkinson • Possession by AS Byatt IMPORT • Romans

• Vikings • 6.8 million tourists annually EXPORT • Kit Kats • Smarties • AS Byatt • Terry’s Chocolate Orange • Dame Judi Dench • The grand old Duke of York • Yorkshire pudding • Guy Fawkes SEE the atmospheric narrow cobbled lane of The Shambles, lined with overhanging 15th-century Tudor buildings. EAT afternoon tea in a 16th-century mansion – Parlour at Grays Court. DRINK a pint or few with the locals over a game of dominoes at the 200year old Blue Bell. DO walk a full circuit of England’s largest intact set of city walls. WATCH well-regarded productions of theatre, opera and dance at the York Theatre Royal on St Leonard’s Pl. BUY unusual books from the teetering troves of second-hand titles at Fossgate Books, in the heart of the Old Town. AFTER DARK join the ‘Ghost Walk’ of Europe’s ‘most-haunted town’, a highly entertaining tour beginning near the Ouse Bridge.tour beginning at the Shambles.

URBAN TALE In AD 71, the Romans erected a walled garrison dubbed Eboracum (now

York) at the strategically important confluence of the Rivers Ouse and Foss. The fort steadily increased in importance, becoming the Romans’ British campaign headquarters and attracting visits by big-name emperors such as Hadrian, Septimius, Severus (who died there) and Constantine. It’s thought that Constantine the Great was proclaimed Emperor on the future site of York Minster – serendipitous, as he went on to become the first Christian emperor.

The Gothic facade of the simply awesome York Minster / DANIEL REITER | GETTY IMAGES

Zanzibar // Tanzania Zanzibar’s old quarter, Stone Town, could have been lifted directly out of a Persian fairy tale, bringing together a mesmerising mix of influences from the Indian Subcontinent, the Arabian Peninsula and mainland Africa, all in a tropical setting.

VITAL STATISTICS NAME: Zanzibar DATE OF BIRTH: 8th century AD; when Shirazi traders from Persia established a settlement ADDRESS: Tanzania (map 1, AA17) HEIGHT: 13m SIZE: 16 sq km POPULATION: 495,000 ANATOMY Stone Town, the heart of Zanzibar Town, juts into the Indian Ocean on the western side of Zanzibar Island. To the northwest, it is rimmed by Mizingani Rd, and to the southwest by Shangani St and Kenyatta Rd. Leading eastwards from these is a magical jumble of cobbled alleyways where it’s easy to wander for hours, stopping in shops fragrant with the scent of cloves and other spices. Don’t worry about getting lost – sooner or later you’ll emerge either on the waterfront or on Creek Rd on the eastern edge of Stone Town. There’s no transport system (and no need for one). To explore the rest of the island, hop on one of the crowded dalla-dallas (some are roofed, open-sided trucks, others are minivans) that connect Zanzibar Town with the beaches.

The lively backstreets of Stone Town / PETER UNGER | GETTY IMAGES

PEOPLE The residents of Zanzibar mirror the melting pot that is their Swahili culture: they trace a mix of Omani, Shirazi and African ancestors in their bloodlines. There are also sizeable Indian and Arabic communities. BEST TIME Zanzibar is amenable at any time of year: even the heavy monsoon rains (from March to May) have their charm, as you’ll have things to yourself and get to see the island as the locals know it. The coolest months are from midJune to August; this is also high tourist season.

A local Swahili woman / LUIS DAVILLA | GETTY IMAGES

A PERFECT DAY Marvelling at the huge carved doors of the House of Wonders; pondering the horrors of the past at the Anglican Cathedral built on the old slave market; wandering through Darajani Market and inhaling the scents of spices and dried fish; strolling aimlessly and endlessly in Stone Town, getting deliciously lost in the maze of streets, discovering children chanting Koranic verses or a beautiful mansion with overhanging balconies or a coffee vendor with long-spouted pot clacking cups to drum up business; and finally sampling the delights of the food stalls in the Forodhani Gardens in the early evening. STRENGTHS • The scent of cloves • The twisting, turning, cobbled lanes of Stone Town • Lattice balconies, ornate doors and window frames • Games of football on the beach • Breakfasts of mango, papaya and spiced tea

• Dhows with their lateen sails, bobbing in the harbour • Hearing the lap of the sea as you sleep • Nearby beaches with azure waters and pristine white sand • Diving and snorkelling the crystal seas • Seafood, grilled or cooked with coconut milk WEAKNESSES • Humidity and monsoon rains • Sporadic political tensions • Street touts, known locally as papasi (ticks)

The Old Fort, a former prison that is now home to art, theatre and culture / MAGDALENA PALUCHOWSKA | SHUTTERSTOCK

GOLD STAR For tropical enchantment – it’s hard to think of a more evocative place name than ‘Zanzibar’, and the reality doesn’t disappoint.

STARRING ROLE IN… • Admiring Silence and By the Sea by Abdulrazak Gurnah • Zanzibar by Giles Foden • Zanzibar Style by Javed Jafferji and Gemma Pitcher IMPORT • Merchants from around the Indian Ocean EXPORT • Cloves, cinnamon, cardamom • Farokh Bulsara, better known as Freddie Mercury • Taarab music – a fusion of African, Arabic and Indian rhythms • Dr Livingstone, who set off to explore Africa’s interior from his base in Zanzibar SEE films and cultural performances from around the Indian Ocean during the Zanzibar International Film Festival (Festival of the Dhow Countries), held every year in July. EAT savoury pilau or other local dishes at Lukmaan Restaurant. DRINK chai (tea), milky and sweet. DO take a Spice Tour and learn about the spice trade. WATCH moonrise over the picturesque roofs of Stone Town. BUY spices, silver jewellery or colourful kangas and kikois. AFTER DARK stroll through Forodhani Gardens at sunset.

URBAN TALE The 11th (and last) Sultan of Zanzibar was granted asylum in England after the revolution in 1964. He lived modestly in Portsmouth – in marked contrast to his earlier life on Zanzibar – on an annual stipend

from the British government.

Traditional bijouterie at a local market / IVAN PAVLOV | SHUTTERSTOCK

THE CITIES BOOK A JOURNEY THROUGH THE BEST CITIES IN THE WORLD Managing Director, Publishing Piers Pickard Associate Publisher Robin Barton Coordinating Editor Bridget Blair Editor Kalya Ryan Art Direction and Design Daniel di Paolo Layout Designers Lauren Egan, Callum Lewis Pre-Press Production Ryan Evans eBook Production Craig Kilburn Thanks Barbara di Castro, Lyahna Spencer, Flora MacQueen, Jennifer Carey Contributors Isabel Albiston, Alexis Averbuck, Carolyn Bain, Andy Bender, Joe Bindloss, Abigail Blasi, Christian Bonetto, Celeste Brash, Lindsay Brown, Austin Bush, Stuart Butler, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Gregor Clark, Fionn Davenport, Megan Eaves, Janine Eberle, Helen Elfer, Mark Elliot, Mary Fitzpatrick, Duncan Garwood, Bridget Gleeson, Michael Grosberg, Anthony Ham, Trent Holden, Alex Howard, Anita Isalska, Bailey Johnson, Michael Kohn, Catherine Le Nevez, Stephen Lioy, Tom Masters, Virginia Maxwell, Bradley Mayhew, Carolyn McCarthy, Hugh McNaughten, Kate Morgan, MaSovaida Morgan, John Noble, Lorna Parkes, Matt Phillips, Josephine Quintero, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Nick Ray, Simon Richmond, Brendan Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Caroline Sieg, James Smart, Helena Smith, Tom Spurling, Andy Symington, Phillip Tang, Lucas Vidgen, Branislava Vladisavljevic, Tasmin Waby, Cliff Wilkinson, Karla Zimmerman Lonely Planet Offices AUSTRALIA The Malt Store, Level 3, 551 Swanston St, Carlton, Victoria 3053 T: 03 8379 8000 USA 124 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 T: 510 250 6400 UK

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