Lonely Planet Brazil [11 ed.] 9781786574756

Citation preview

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Rio de Janeiro

pull-out maP Amazon wildlife guide

Carnaval planning chaPter

4

easy-to-use sections

How to use this book Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

O sietts 7i e"""tr"r

PLAN YOUR TRIP Photos & suggestions to help you create the perfect trip.

f a"tirities Q Courses @Tours

*r["ffl'i,ii

l! X ! f fi

Snopping

o

[f.H$LT

Sleeping

e"ting orinmng Entertainment

All reviews are ordered in our writers' preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:

ON THE ROAD Expert reviews, easy-to-use maps & insider tips.

Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference.

These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

*

Must-visit recommendation

y' Sustainable or green recommendation l'f;I'fl 11o payment required

UNDERSTAND Learn about the big picture, to make sense of what you see.

E Telephone number B Ferry S Openinghours E Tram @ Parking E Train Q Nonsmoking apt apartments EE Air-conditioning d double rooms @ lnternetaccess dm dorm beds q quad rooms E Wi-fi access E Swimmingpool r rooms E Vegetarian selection s single rooms @ English-languagemenu ste suites @ Family-friendly tr triple rooms

E Pet{riendly

SURVIVAL GUIDE Vital practical information for a smooth trip.

tw twin rooms

@ Bus For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend. r

5B N 9 78-

1

-7865 7-4 75 -6

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Brazi I The Amazon

Cear6, Pemambuco, Piaui& pamiba&Rio Maranhio GrandedoNorte p532 p4B2

p568

Bq!t!

MatoGrosso& M;iodGt do Sul Brasilia & p362 Goiiis

Sergipe & Alagoas p464

P4oo

P334 Minas Gerais& Esplrito Santo S5o

Paulo

P17o

State

\ pZii Rio d" paran1 Rio i:de Janeiro State Janeiro P128 o268 Santa P6o Catarina Rio

Grande

p292

do Sul p314

Regis St Louis, Gregor Clark, Anthony Ham, Andy Symington,

Robert Balkovich, Alex Egerton, Anna Kaminski, Kevin Raub

PLAN YOUR TR!P

.......6 Map......,.......8 BrazillTop 20 .........10 Need to Know.... .....20

ON THE ROAD

lUelcome to Brazil

RIO DEJANEIRO.

Brazil

Sights.

First Time

Bra,zil....... 22

.......... 24 Month by Month.. ......n Itineraries ............ 30 Carnaval. ......37 Outdoors ..... tli} lf You Like....

Eat & Drink Like a !-oca!. . .48

Travel with

Ghildrcn.... 53

Regions at a Glance. . . . 55

61

.

Activities Courses

Tours..

78

83

. .

Festivals & Events

..

Sleeping.

Eating...

llha Grande & Vila doAbraSo

Paraty..

Itatiala Region

.. .. ..137

.......

84

do ltatiaia . . .. .. .. .. . . . 146

85

Visconde de

85

Penedo..

96

North of Rio de

Entertainment......

119

Petr6polis

Shopping.

t21

Teres6polis Nova

Mau6......

............. ............

155

Friburgo..........

157

East of Rio de Janeiro...

Saquarema

Verde...,,...

-l

...

I

q

I

MUSEU DO ARTE

coNTEMPoRANEA P84

'! I

t

5 CAIMAN, THE PANTANAL P375

p

151

. . .159

............

m

,l

148

.....150

Janeiro.........l5l

110

RIO DE JANEIRO STATE.

Itt6

Parque Nacional

Drinking & Nightlife.

Costa

.........L29

*

d

159

Contents Arraial do Cabo.

L62

Aiuruoca & the

CaboFrio......

163

Vale do Matutu. . .

... ..

164

Diamantina.......

.204

Seno&Around....

.208

Brizios . ..

MINAS GERAIS &

rspiRro sANTo...17o Mlnas Gerals.

.. .. .. ...171

Belo Horizonte

.. ... .. ...17L

0uro

Preto.............

Mariana.

182

.....190

........ . 192 Congonhas ............ 192 Lavras Novas..

56o.Joio del Rei. .. ..

...193

Tiradentes.............

Caxambu

196

.. .. .202

.

Parque Nacional da Serra Do Cip6 . . Tabuleiro

.203

.209 .210

Parque Natural do Caraga

.zto

Parque Nacional de Capara6

.21

........ .......

Espirito Santo..

..

2U2

Ita0nas . .

.213 .215

Guarapari & Around

.218

Domingos Martins

.219 .220

Vit6ria.

.

.

Pedra Azul

SANTA

........292

CATARTNA

llha de Santa Catarina

Coast.............300

South lsland

...........302

The Mainland . . . ..

.

.. .304 .. .. .304

Blumenau

..,..........306

Joinville

North of Florian6polis. . . 310 South of Florian6polis.. . 312

RIO GRANDE DO SU1....... Porto Alegre

S5o Paulo City

......

PaulistaCoast....... Ubatuba. S6o SebastiSo.

llhabela

....

.

..

.

222

Bento Gongalves

223 259 .259

Vale dos Vinhedos

.262 .263

Cambar6 do Sul .

lguape&Around...... .267

293

North lsland . .. . . .. .. ..298 East

Serra Gaicha

SAO PAULO STATE.

.......

Florian6polis...........2SS

Pinto Bandeira

.

... .326

Gramado

Litoral Gatcho Torres.

..

.

RioGrande....... PARANA.. . . . . . . . . 268

.....269 Curitiba Morretes ,.,.274 Paranagul ...,,.,..,. 215 llha do Mel. ..........2n

Goi6s...

lguaqu Falls &

Goi3nia..

BRASiLlA& GOIAS.

Around,

282

CidadedeGoi6s.......

Fozdolguagu....

282

Piren6polis

Parque Nacional do lguagu (Brazil)

289

Parque Nacional da Chapada Dos Veadeiros.

291

Alto Paraiso de Goiiis .. .359

Parque Nacional

lguaz[ (Argentina)

56o Jorge. TAIPU DE FORA P439

334

Brasllia.

.358 .361

ON THE ROAD MATO GROSSO & MATO GROSSO DO SU1..........362

ilato Grosso Cuiabi

.

-

r!7tt

-T-

..,.....,354 ......365

Chapada dos

Guimaries.............369 Parque Nacional da Chapada dos

Guimaries

......

.. .. .. ..371

...........

373

Pantanal.........

375

Alta Floresta The

Northern Pantanal. Southern Pantanal. Mato Grosso do

Sul..

Campo

.....379 .....383

I

t

)

( h.-_

......389

Bonito

&Ar0und........393

Ponta

Pori.. .. .... .... .398

BAHTA.

\\

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Grande.........384

CorumbS

{

i*-.\ EE fil

.....384

D-

t

\

... .. ......372 Pocon6.. .....373

Bom Jardim.

.

Salvador.

...400 ....4O2

VALE DA LUA P358

Rec6ncavo . . . . . . . . , . . 427 Cachoeira & SZo Felix...427 tlorth of Salvador.....430 Praia do

Forte..........430

Mangue Seco

..........432

South of Salrador . Morro de Sio Paulo. Boipeba . Valenga.

.. .434 .. ..434

.....437 ......438

Barra Grande

..........439

.. llh6us...

......441

Itacar6

......M3

Porto Seguro. . ..

Arraial dAiuda

... .. ..M7

.........450

Trancoso Caraiva.

.....453 ......455

Caravelas. . . . . . . . . . . . . .456

YYest

of Salvador

Leng6is..

.....41i6 .....457

Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina. . . .462

PERNAMBUCO, PARA|BA & RIO GRANDE

DONORTE.... Pernambuco

SERGIPE & ALAGOAS.

........4U Sergipe. .....466 Aracaiu. ......466 Alagoas .....470 Macei6 .. .....470 Praia do

Franc6s........ 477

Penedo.. Maragogi

Recife.

.

.

Olinda.

.

.

482 .

/t8:l .483 .497

Fernando de

Noronha.

.502

Paraiba.

.sul

Jo6o Pessoa

. 513

Rio Grande do Norte. ,.517

.....478

Natal. . . .

. 517

.....480

PraiadaPipa.........

.526

Sio Miguel do Gostoso

.

.530

Gontents UNDERSTAND Brazi!

Ioday.. History.

....660

.....662

......

Life in Brazil . ..

Brazilian Rhythms

Football

\

.....6n .....682

Ginema & Literature ...6,85

Architecture

.........

687

....

690

fhe Natural World

t!

614

Lr-i

BRAZILIAN BARBECUE P48

^;

cranA, pnui a

ulnlrunAo ......

.. Fortaleza

Gear6

532

.....533 .....533

Mamirau6 Reserve

.637

The Triple Frontier

.638

Roraima

645

BoaVista........

.646

.......

,649

PortoVelho......

.649

Directory A-Z

Guajar6-Mirim. ..

. 651

Iranspoilation

Canoa Quebrada .......543 lcarai de Amontada. .. ..549

Rond6nia

Jericoacoara .. .. .. .. .. .550

Maranhio. S5o

...........

Luis.

556

.....556

Parque Nacional dos Leng6is Maranhenses. . .564

SURVIVAL GUIDE

.

........,..

,652

RioBranco.......

.653

Xapuri..

.6s5

Acre

Brasil6ia.

.657

..

702

.

.7U .TD

Language......

lndex....,..... Map Legend...

726 .

734

THEAMAZON.....568

.....512 Par6.... .....572 Bel6m... Algodoal. .....585

SPECIAL FEATURES Football Fever...............81

Driving the

llha de

Maraj6..........587 Santardm. ... ....... ...590

Beaches of Rio de Janeiro State .......151

Transpantaneira.......,,376

Floresta Nacional do Tapaj6s. . .. . . . ..

Pizza Paulistana......,,. ...,......241

Capoeira ..,,.........,,,,,., 422

.. ..596 ..598

.....

Candombl6

.-.....

..........412

Fernando de Noronha,,................... 505

Tocantins............602

lguagu Fa|1s............... 286 Vale Europeu .............308

.....602

Vale dos Vinhedos.... 323

Riverboat Travel,.,.,,., 582

Niemeyer's

Amazon Wildlife........ 629

Alter do ChSo . ..

Palmas.,

Taquarussrl

.. .. .. .. .. ..605

Amazonas

.. . ,. ,. .,. .606

.

......606

Rio Negro

Basin... .... .620

Manaus

Tef6....

.......627

Bras11ia....................... 338

Beach Beauties .........

ill

6

Welcometo

Brazil

Tropical islands, lush rainforests and rhythm-filled cities set the scene for the great Brazilian ado enture.

Landscapes & Biodiversity

DaysofAdventure

One of the world's most captivating places,

Brazil offers big adventures for travelers

Brazil is a country of powdery white-sand beaches, verdant rainforests and wild, rhythm-filled metropolises. Brazilt attractions extend from frozen-in-time colonial towns to otherworldly landscapes of red-rock canyons, thundering waterfalls and coral-fringed tropical islands. Add to that, Brazil's biodiversity: legendary in scope, its diverse ecosystems boast the greatest collection of plant and animal species found anywhere on earth. There are countless places in Brazil where you can spot its iconic species, which include toucans, scarlet macaws, howler monkeys, capybaras, pink dolphins, sea turtles and many more.

with budgets large and small. There's horseback riding and wildlife-watching in the

The Rhythms ofBrazil Wherever there's music, that carefree lust for life tends to appear - tvhether dancing wilh cariocas at Rio's atmospheric samba clubs or following powerful drumbeats through the streets of Salvador. There's the dancehall forr6 of the Northeast, twirling cartmbd of lhe Amazon, scratch-skilled DJs of 56o Paulo and an endless variety of regional sounds that extends from the twangy country music of the sunbaked sertanejo 10 the hard-edged reggae ofMaranhSo.

Pantanal, kayaking flooded forests in the Amazon, ascending rocky clifftops to panoramic views, whale-watching off the coast, surfing stellar breaks off palm-fringed beaches and snorkeling crystal-clear rivers or coastal reefs - all are part of the great Brazilian experience. No less entrancing is the prospect ofdoing nothing, aside from sinking toes into warm sands and soaking up a glorious stretch ofbeach, with a caipirinha - Brazilh national cocktail - in hand.

Joie deVivre Carnaval, storms through the country's citwith hip-shaking samba and freoo, dazzling costumes and parties that last until sunup. Outside of this,/esras (festivals) happen year-round, and provide a window into Brazil's incredible diversity. The streets are carp€ted with flowers during ouro Preto's Semana Santa (Holy Week), while in the north, Bumba Meu Boi blends indigenous, African and Portuguese folklore. Hit Blumenau's beer- and schnitzel-loving Oktoberfest, the largest outside of Germany. Several cities, such as Recife, Fortaleza and Natal even host Carnaval at other times ofyear. ies and towns

7

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,l Why I Love Brazil By Regis St Louis, Writer The music. the beaches, the wildlife and, most importantly, the people: it's hard not to fall for Brazil. Rio de Janeiro is one of my favorite cities: I never tire of watching the sunset f rom Arpoador, chasrng the samba scene in Lapa or wandering the village-like streets of Santa Teresa. But Rio is just the beginning, and in Brazil there really is no end. I have fond memories spotting wildlife (especially in the Pantanal and the Amazon), making friends in small towns and f inding incredible musicians in unlikely places. There's really no other country that offers so much.

For more about our writers, see P735

Above: The Pantanal (p377)

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River snorkeling, caves and waterfalls (p393)

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Iguaguralb Spectacular waterfalls amid rainforest (p282) La Serena

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Leng6is Maranhenses Srirreal dunes and lagoons (p564)

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Fernando ileNoronha

Naciotrrl

Coral reefs and magnificent beaches (p502)

femando de Norcnha

Olinda Historic city \Mith vibrant culture (p4,97)

Salvador The heart and soul of Afro-Brazil (p4,02)

Parque Naf,ional da Chapada Diamantina

Peaks and valleys (p462)

Seguro

Brasilia The architecturally dazzling capital (p335)

Mateus

Ouroheto

Beautifully preserved colonial town (p182) Rio de Janeiro Beaches, samba and striking panoramas (p60)

trhaGrande Mountainous rainforestcovered island (p129) Santa

ALEGRE

S5o Paulo Culture, cuisine and great nishtlife (p223)

trhaile SantaCatarina Forests, beaches, lakes and

nightlife (p293)

ELEVATION )0@n

ATLANTIC

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PflodeAgrican Rio de Janeiro Some say to come around sunset for the best views from this absurd confection of a mountain (p67). But in truth, it doesn't matter when you come: you're unlikely to look at Rio (or your own comparatively lackluster city) in the same way From here the landscape is pure undulating green hills and golden beaches lapped by blue sea, with rows of skyscrapers sprouting along the shore. The ride up is good fun: all-glass aerial trams that whisk you up to the top. The adventurous can rock-climb their way to the summit.

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Iguagu Falls .tl No matter the number of waterfalls Z you'vechecked offyour bucket list, no matter how many times you have thought you'd be just fine never seeing another waterfall again, lguagu Falls (p282) will stomp all over your idea of water trickling over the edge of a cliff. The thunderous roar ot 275falls crashing across the Brazil and Argentina border floors even the most jaded traveler. Loud, angry, unstoppable and impossibly gorgeous, lguaqu will leave you stunned and slack-jawed at the absolute power of Mother Nature.

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Salvador r; The world capital of Af ro-Brazil, Sal-

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vador (p402) is famous for capoeira. Candombl6, Olodum, colonial Portuguese architecture, African street food and one of the oldest lighthouses in the Americas. The city's past, marked by gritty stories of Portuguese seafaring and the heartbreaking history of the African slave trade. is characterized by hardship. But today's lively Bahian capital offers a unique fusion of two vibrant cultures. The festive music and nightlife scene culminates every February when Salvador hosts one of the best Carnavals inBrazil.

IlhaGrande A 1t

fhanks to its isolation, llha Grande (ptzg) served for decades as a prrson

and leper's colony. Spared from development by this unusual history, its.jungleclad slopes and dozens of beaches are some of the best preserved in all of Brazil. Days are spent hiking through lush Aflantic rainforest, snorkeling amid aquamarine seas and cooling off in refreshing waterfalls. With no motor vehicles to spoil the party, this is one clean, green island - a true nature-lover's paradise. lt's also an easy day's journey from Rio.

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OuroPreto z The 18th-century streets of Ouro Preto D (pt8Z) u""r. precipitously between one

baroque masterpiece and the next. Admire the sculpted masterpieces of Aleijadinho, discover the 18th-century African king turned folk hero Chico-Rei and gaze upon opulent gilded churches. The elaborate Holy Week processions are among the country's most spectacular. From gold trading post to state capital, revolutionary hotbed to Unesco World Heritage site, Ouro Preto has been at the center of the action for more than 300 years. Above: lgrela Nossa Senhora do Bonfim

(p406)

BeersofBlumenau ,a O

ubiouitous oale laqers such as Brahma ana'srot .eitrinly-trffi"" r. beat-theheat treats. but Brazil's best brews come from greater Blumenau (p306). Heavy German immigration in the 1800s brought Reinheitsgebot, Germany's beer purity law, and these German-Brazilians aren't too fond of sharing. That means with the exception of the once-micro Eisenbahn, seriously good artisanal suds such as Schornstein Kneipe, Bierland and Das Bier don't fall too far from the tree. You'll need to venture into Santa Catarina's Vale Europeu to quench your thirst.

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Il ThePantanal F7

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Few places on earth

can match the wildlife-

watching experience provided by the Pantanal (p375), a wondrously remote wetland in the heart of Mato Grosso. From cute capybaras to stately storks, the animal life simply abounds and is remarkably easy to see in the open marshy surroundings. There are a million reasons not to miss out on this particular ecoexperience, and not least among them is that there is no better place in South America to see the elusive jaguar (pictured above left).

Fernando de Noronha

I

This archipelago (p502) of one 10kmlong island and 20 smaller ones,350km out into the Atlantic from Natal, has everything a tropical getaway should have - iawdropping scenery and seascapes, fine beaches, the best diving and snorkeling in the country, good surfing. memorable hikes, plentiful visible wildlife, good accommodations and restaurants - and no crowds, for visitor numbers are restricted by the limited number of plane seats available each day. Visiting Noronha is expensive, but it's worth every centavo if your budget will stretch far enough.

JungleTrips

I

Needless to say, the best reason to visit the Amazon (p568) is to get out into the jungle: to ply the winding waterways in a canoe, hike lush leafy trails, and scan the canopy for monkeys, sloths and other creatures. The world's biggest and best-known rainforest has outdoor excursions of all sorts, and for all types of travelers: from easy nature hikes to scaling 50m trees, from luxury lodges to makeshift camps in the forest. Whatever your interest, experience, ability or budget, there's a jungle trip in the Amazon waiting to blow your mind.

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Rivaling the f renetic pace of New York, the modernism of Tokyo and the prices of Moscow but swamping all of them in options, Sao Paulo city

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is home to a pool

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20 million potential foodies, cocktail connoisseurs and clubbers and nearly 30,000 restaurants, bars and clubs to satiate them. From the

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contemporary gourmet haunts of ltaim Bibi and Jardins, to the edgy offerings of Baixo Augusta, to bohemian bars in Vila Madalena, it's a gluttonous avalanche of bolinhos (aPpetizers), booze and beats that outruns the sunrise on most nights. Sadde/

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be the harbinger of Braziis 'new dawn' was an architect capable of designing buildings that looked the part. In Oscar Nremeyer Brasilia found the right man for the job. The 'crown of thorns' Catedral Metropolitana (p337; pictured above) is a religious masterwork and the interplanetary Teatro Nacional is out of this worldl Brasilia is a city overloaded with architectural gems designed by a genius inspired by the concept of a better future.

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aquatic adventures in the.iaw-dropping surroundings of the Serra da Bodoquena and prepare for a wild wet-suited adventure like you've never experienced before. Whether you're taking your first foray into flotation on the Rio da Prata or journeying to the center of the earth at the Abismo Anhumas, Bonito is packed with unique experiences that will rank among your most cherished memories of any trip to Brazil. Bottom: Gruta do Lago Azul (p394)

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Carnavalin Rio de Janeiro i a, It)

Get plenty of sleep betore you board the plane, because once you land, it's nonstop revelry (p37) until Ash Wednesday (sort of) brings it all to a close. With nearly

500 street parties happening all over town, you will not lack for options. For the full experience, loin a samba school and parade

amid pounding drum corps and mechanized smokebreathing dragons before thousands of roaring fans in the Samb6dromo. Or assemble a costume and hit one of the Carnaval balls around town. The buildup starts weeks in advance.

Tiradentes

14

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preserved, and its natural setting so appealing, you could be excused for feeling like you've wandered onto a is so well

movie set. Cobbled lanes,

flower-draped walls and some stunning colonial architecture make every step a delight - even more if you like to hike. The surrounding mountains are threaded with trails: Tiradentes' hyperactive restaurant scene serves up delicious meals, both modern and traditional; and its charming guesthouses make a relaxing spot to recharge. Above: lgreja Matriz de Santo AntOnio (p197)

ParqueNacional daChapada Diamantina rrt z Aoristineoutdoor ID wonderland of rushing waterfalls, crystalblue pools, rugged hiking trails and natural waterslides, Chapada Diaman-

tina (p462) is a deliciously unspoiled national park well off the beaten path it's one of the only inland attractions in the beachhappy state of Bahia. Those who make the effort to explore the park, either on day excursions from Lenc6is or on the Grand Circuit with a local guide, often count the Chapada Diamantina as one of their top outdoor travel experi-

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ences in Brazil.

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ParqueNacional

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Maranhenses

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Of all Brazil's land

scape spectacles, the most unexpected has to be the Leng6is Maranhenses (p564) in MaranhSo - a 70km-long, 25km-wide expanse of high dunes resembling /en06is (bed sheets) spread across the landscape. From around March to September (best in July and August), the dunes are partnered by thousands of crystal-clear, f reshwater lagoons from rainwater filling the hollows between them. lt can be visited by 4WD tour, by boat down the jungle-lined Rio Preguigas or, forthe adventurous, on a three- or four-day trek right across the LenE6is.

These two contrasting Northeastern neighbors with an inter-

l'l

twined history and shared culture make a heady double act. Recife (p483) is the big-city big sister with the skyscrapers and traffic, but also a fascinating historic center becoming ever more appealing through renovations and new museums, restaurants and cultural centers. Photogenic Olinda (p497; pictured top right) has tranquil winding lanes, colonial churches and artists' galleries. Their vibrant shared heritage comes together at Carnaval with some of Brazil's most riotous street festivities, highlighted by unique music and dance forms such as frevo

andmaracatu.

NterdoChflo

lg ilLTi,i,Tii.,,,

all: a slice of beachfront in the heart of the rainforest. The Amazonian destina-

tion is best known for its picturesque setting, an island made entirely of fine white sand lapped by cool tea-colored water. But Alter do ChZo is also a gateway to a major national forest, with massive samaima trees (pictured above) and a chance to live with local rubbertapper families. With so much to do, appealing lodging options and a great laid-back vibe, it's a place where you'll want to linger for a while - and many travelers do just

that.

19

SantaCatarinaBeaches

rI

:il'3

;il1;:lfi?

:;rT:r

has a whole lot to do with its sun-toasted shores. Whether you hang out in Florian6polis (where an easy path to paradise

boasts 42 idyllic beaches sitting within an hour's drive) or head south of the capital to Guarda do Emba0 (one of Brazil's best surfing spots) or to Praia do Rosa (the state's most sophisticated beach resort), a powerful punch of wow will greet you the first time you dig your toes into the state's unspoiled sands. Top: Praia do Santinho

(p299)

Paraty 2 () y,iJffili: ::x1ffi il ::lni{:

ture and natural beauty as Paraty (p137). " Located a few hours southwest of Rio on the picturesque Costa Verde, it has long been a lavorite carioca getaway. Drop-dead gorgeous beaches and a stunning mountain backdrop jostle for attention with the multihued, cobblestoned charms of the 18thcentury town center. lf you get bored with sunbathing and sightseeing, cool off with a caipirinha, go hurtling down a natural waterslide nearby, or whip up a gourmet Brazilian meal at the local cooking school.

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20

NeedtoKnow For more information, see Survival Guide (p7ol)

Currency

WhentoGo

Real (R$)

Language

/

Portuguese

.

Mamus G0 Jul-Nov

Visas Required for some nationalities, including holders of passports

from the US, Canada and Australia.

Money

!

,

ATMS are widespread

in Brazil. Credit cards are accepted at most restaurants, shops and

.

hotels.

de Janeiro G0 yearround

Florian6polis Nov-Mar

GO

Desd, dry dlrnate Tropi€l climte, wet & dry seaens Tropiel climte, nin y€r round Wam to hot $mmeE, mild winters

Cell Phones Local SIM cards can be used in unlocked European and Australian phones, and in US phones on the GSM network.

Time Brazil has four time

High Season

Shoulder

Low Season

(Dec

(Apr & Oct)

(lvlay-Sep)

a The weather is warm and dry along the coast, though it can be chilly in the south.

+ Aside from July, which is a schoolholiday month, you'll find lower prices and mild temperatures in the south.

lVaQ

r

Brazil's high season coincides with the northernhemisphere winter.

zones. Rio and S5o

r

Paulo are on Brasilia time (GMT/UTC minus

-

and minimum stays

are average, though

three hours).

(typically four nights)

Easter week draws crowds and high

July to September are good months to visit the Amazon or

prices.

Pantanal.

A hot, festive time expect higher prices

during Carnaval.

a

lt's particularly

busy in Rio and popular beach

destinations.

a

Prices and crowds

t

2l

UsefulWebsites

DailyCosts

Arrivingin Brazil

Embratur (www.visitbrasil.com) 0fficialsite of Brazil's Ministry

Budget: Less than R$200

Galeao lnternational Airport (Rio de Janeiro) Premium 0nibus

of Tourism.

r t

lnsider's Guide to

Rio (www.

Dorm bed: R$40-80

Sandwich and drink in a juice bar: R$18-25

ipanema.com) Tips and planning info, with special sections on Carnaval and gay Rio.

Long-distance buses: around R$l5-18 per hour of travel

and resources on Brazil.

Midrange: R$2OO-4OO

What About S5o Paulo (http:// whataboutsaopaulo.com) Blog exploring the highs and lows of life in Brazil's biggest city.

a

information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

i i

t

Rio Times (www.riotimesonline. com) English-language news

Lonely Planet (wwwlonely planet.com/brazil) Destination

i

R$82 and R$100. Ride-sharing services cost around R$60. Shuttle service costs R$25.

a

Dinnerfor two in a midrange restaurant: R$80-160

GRU Airport (Sao Paulo) The

i

airportbusservice.com.br; R$50) is the most efficient way tolfrom GRU Airport. Guarucoop (www.

Airport Bus Service (www.

Jungle trip: R$150-350

i

perday

: :

t

guarucoop.com.br) is the only

r

taxi service allowed to operate at the airport (R$150 to Jardins

Admission to nightclubs and live-musicvenues: R$20-50 0ne-way flight from Rio to Salvador/lguagu/Manaus: from R$4701500/550

Numbers 455

Ambulance

l)t92

Fire

8193

Police

l.rl190

lnternational

80800-

collect call

703-2LLl

or Vila Madalena, R$157 to Vila

R$400

Mariana). Ride-share services cost about half as much. By train, the brand new CPTM Linha 13 (Jade) connects GRU Airport

I

with Engenheiro Goulart station on Linha 12 (Safira) in northeast

Top end: More than

:

Boutique hotel: from R$500

+ Upscaleiunglelodges outside Manaus: R$600-1200 per night

I

S5o Paulo.

GettingAround

Dinner for two at top

Plane Useful for crossing

restaurants: R$200-500

Exchange Rates Argentina

R$1

R$0.10

Australia

A$1

R$2.68

Bolivia

a(1

R$0.54

Canada

c$1

R$2.93

Eum zone

€1

R$4.37

Japan

Y100

R$3.3s

New

NZ$1

R$2.4s

UK

UKSl

R$4.98

US

US$1

R$3.80

Zealand

For current exchange rates, see

www.xe.com.

mengo, Copacabana, lpanema, Leblon and other neighborhoods. Radio taxis (set fare R$130, 45 to 90 minutes) to Copacabana and lpanema. Metered yellow-andblue comum taxis cost between

Standard double room in a hotel: R$160-300

Important Brazil's country code

2018 (R$16, one totwo hours, every 30 minutes) buses to Fla-

Brazil's immense distances; can save days of travel; prices are generally high, butairfare

OpeningHours

i

Banks 9am-3pm Monday-Friday

;

promotions arefrequent.

Bars 6pm-2am

i

Bus Extensiveservicesfrom comun (conventional) to leito (overnight sleepers) throughout the country, except for the

Cafes 8am-10pm

Nightclubs 10pm-4am Thursday-Saturday Post offices 9am-5pm Monday-Friday; some open Saturday morning Restaurants Noon-2:30pm and 6-10:30pm Shops 9am-6pm Monday-Friday and 9am-lpm Saturday

Amazon. Fortimetables and bus operators, check out Busca Onibus (www.buscaonibus.com.br).

Boat Slow, uncomfortable, but brag-worthy transport between towns in the Amazon, with trips measured in days rather than hours. You'll need a hammock, snacks, drinking water and a high tolerance for boredom. For much more on

getting around, see p711

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22

FirstTime Brazil For more information, see Survival Guide (p7O1)

Checklist

Top Tips forYour

t

i

Make sure you have your Brazilian visa if you need one.

+ lnform your debit/creditcard company of your travel plans.

t

Make arrangements to be able to use your mobile phone

upon arrival.

t

Download essential smartphone apps (see our Top Tips section below for more on this)

What to Pack t Good walking shoes i A sarong (handy for the beach and as an extra towel)

i

Lightweight rain jacket (for those unexpected tropical downpours)

a

+ lf you haven't already, download WhatsApp and set up your profile. Tour operators, guides, restaurants, guesthouses and everyone else uses it. lt's also the best way to stay in touch with Brazilians you meet.

t

Using a ride-sharing app (like Uber, 99Taxis or Easy Taxi) to get around major towns and cities is generally faster and cheaper than using a traditional taxi.

t

Brazil has many facets; decide what kind of trip you want while making your plans: wildlife-watching vs big-city nightlife, remote beaches and island-hopping vs cultural experiences etc. Customize your itinerary based on your own interests.

VfhattoWear The dress code is very casual in Brazil, but it's a good idea to bring along something a bit more dressy for a night out. Given the heat and humidiry lightweight, natural, breathable fabrics are best. On the beach, women generally wear tiny bikinis, and men wear tight swim trunks. Everyone flaunts it all, regard less ofbody shape and size.

Brazilian electrical adaptor

.l

Portable water filter (to cut down on waste from plastic water bottles)

t t i

Trip

Brazil is a massive country, and it's impossible to see it all. Pick one or two regions, rather than losing a lot of time transiting between far-flung parts of the country iust ticking off highlights.

Language phrasebook

lnsect repellent

Sunscreen, hat and sunglasses

Sleeping Brazil has a wide range of lodging, covering all budgets. Reserve well in advance when booking during high season (December to March). Hotels From simple accommodations in cookie-cutter high-rises to boutique options with ocean views in luxury buildings.

Pqradas Guesthouses running the gamut from basic to plush, with many family-run options. a few private rooms with communal good cheer at locations across the country.

Hoetels Dorms and

Jungle lodges Found in the Amazon; prices are midrange to high and luxuries are few, but the wildlife-watching can be astonishing.

23

SafeTravel

Phrases to Learn Before You Go

Crime is aconcern in Brazil, but ifyou take basic precautions, you'll minimlze your risk ofbecoming a target.

English is not widely spoken in Brazil. You1l have the best luck communicating in popular tourist destinations like Rio de Janeiro. It helps to master a few basic Portuguese phrases. You'll have a head start ifyou've studied Spanish, as Portuguese and Spanish share many words and grammatical structures. The pronunciation, however, is completely different, and very few Brazilians speak Spanish. Note too, that European and Brazilian Portuguese have different spelling, pronunciation and to some extent, different vocabulary.

a

Dress down and leave

expensive iewelry, watches and sunglasses at home.

t

Carry only the money you'll need for the day.

o

After dark, don't ever walk along empty streets, in deserted parks or on urban beaches.

t

o

Use ATMs inside buildings.

of your surroundings.

o

Bargaining A little bargaining for hotel rooms should become second nature. Before you agree to take a room, ask for abetter price: '2m de s conto?' (ls there a discoll:at?) and' Po de fazer

n a

vo.se Faa.laa eeng.g/es

o

(D

Quanto esti ojogo?

n

k[€ng.to es.taa ozho.go

N

What would you recommend? O que voce lecomenda? k. vo.se lre ko nrelrg.dri

o

How much is it? Quanto custa?

lil!.xlil.l! hrr),'l

r.l

A little bargaining is expected at maxkets, but sellers genera.lly don't inflate their prices so often aren't willing to hagljte.

when shopping in markets. In unmetered taxis, be sure to agree on the price before departing.

o

Where's the best beach? Ondefl ca 6 m€lhorprah? ong.de fee.kaa aa me.lyarr pzt.aa

The beaches of Rio are the city's wondrous and carefree bmkyard md have long seduced visitors.

Tipping HotelsTipping is optional for housekeepers, but appreciated.

Etiquette

Parking Usually R$2 or more; assistants do not receive wages and are dependent on tips.

Brazilians are pretw informal, but there are rules of etiquette.

Taxis Not expected but most people round up to the nearest

a few key

GreetlngsWhen greeting or bidding goodbye to women, an air kiss is exchanged on each cheek (start to her left). Men shake hands

real.

with one another. Tours lt's customary to tip guides at the end of a tour, and certainly appreciated if you can give a little to the assistant or

Restaurants

A 1090

i i

Dining Use a napkin or a toothpick when eating finger food. Brazilians tend to eat pizza with a knife and fork.

i

Touchy subjects Brazilians are exasperated by their country's corruption, but can be defensive if foreigners criticize their government or talk about poverty or religion.

:

boat operator(s).

service

charge is usually included.

i

-{ -{ m

What's the score?

Brililian dishes are normally quite large - md some dishes are memt for two. When in doubt, ask the server to clarifu.

um

melhor prego?'(Canyou give a better price?). There's sometimes a discount for paying d, tsista (cash). You should also bargain

*t

=

\lbcefalairrdes?

On big int€rnational game days, Rio residents pack into neighborhood Dot cos (small, open-air bam) to mtch the game.

o

o E ! a

Do you speak English?

Sta.ff at hostels, midrange ard top€nd hotels and high-end shops will often speak some English.

Before doing so, be very aware

!

-

24

IfYouLike

aoo

i the rainforests, wetlands

forested mountains and lovely

Beaches

: and along the coast.

beaches. (p61)

Brazil has some ofthe finest beaches on earth: you'll

i

Fernando de Noronha Cliffs, rock pinnacles, beautiful bays and beaches all packed into one 10km-long island. (p502)

rainforest-backed sands all along the coastline.

i

Mamirau6 Reserve One of the best places intheAmazon to seewildlife and experiencethe wondersof the motherof all rainforests. (p637)

i

The Pantanal You're likely to

Argentina and Brazil, these are

Bala do Sancho 0n Fernando de Noronha, this is easily one ol

see a great many animal species

some of the most spectacular

in these wildlife+ich wetlands.

waterfalls on earth. (p282)

Brazil's most gorgeous beaches.

(p37s)

:

find idyllic island getaways, i vibrant big-city beaches and ;

(ps03) llha Grande Enchanting island with gorgeous beaches, a welcome lack of cars and a laidback island vibe. (p129)

Trancoso Cl itf -backed beaches are a short stroll from this pretty Bahian village. (p453) Jericoacoara Hip international beach scene with good activities, pousadas (guesthouses),

Femando de Noronha Worldclass diving and snorkeling amid abundant marine life. (p502) Praia do Rosa Watch southern right whales off the coast between June and October. (p312)

Parque l{acional de Morte Pascoal Part of the bio-rich Atlantic rainforest, this park lies just south of Salvador. (p455)

restaurants and nightlife. (p550)

Estagio Biol6gica de Caratinga Head to this remote

llhabela Dense jungle, waterfalls

reserve in Minas Gerais to see

and picturesque beaches a few hours from Sio Paulo. (p263)

some of the largest primates in the Americas. (p213)

Florian6polis & llha de Santa Catarina Protected dunes and clifi- and forest-lined beaches, plus stunning lagoons in the interior. (p293)

Blessed

Wildlife Brazil is home to a staggering array of plant and animal species, with memorable wildlife-watching in

lguagu Falls Spread between

Parque l{acional da Chapada Diamantina ln the Bahian interior, you can hike across dramatic plateaus and swim in refreshing waterfalls. (p462) Parque Nacional dos Leng6is Maranhenses An otherworldly landscape of windswept dunes and sparkling blue lagoons.

(p564) After do ChSo Startling whitesand beaches surrounded by jungle deep in the Amazon.

(p598) Parque Nacional Serra dos 6rgaos Great hiking amid dramatic mountain scenery just two hours north of Rio. (p151)

Scenery with verdant rain-

forests, thundering waterfalls, craggy mountains and tropical islands, it's easy

why Brazilians say Brasileiro'(God is Brazilian).

to

see

'Deus

e

Rio de JaneimThe Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City) lives up to its name with

Food & Drink Specialties in Brazil range from African-infl uenced stev/s to delectable Amazo-

nian fish. lpanema & Leblon These twin beachfront neighborhoods have some of the best restaurants in Rio. (p96; p100)

25

;$r

T

S5o Paulo With great pizzerias, sushi bars and restaurants serv-

t

fi il

I

ing first-rate Brazilian and international fare, you won't go hungry in Sampa. (p223)

fi*

Vale dos Vinhedos This scenic valley in the south is the heart of Brazil's wine-growing region,

I

I

!

-

and has top restaurants as well. (p321)

o c a

SENAC Take a cooking class or

simply come for the buffet, whicl features all the great Bahian dishes, (p410)

\)

Bel6m Sample lip-numbing tacacd (a soup) and many delicious Amazonian fish such as tht prized tuc an a 16 (peacock bass). (p572) Tiradentes Great place to feast on mineira cooking, particularly during its 10-day gastronomic festival. (p196)

Getting off the Beaten Path Pre-Columbian rocl deserted beaches, e

the-earth fishing vi these are just a few

Parque Nacional da Serra da Capivara This dramatic rocky landscape contains thousands prehistorrc rock paintings. (p5 Peninsula de Mara0 Peat 'uland remot :eninsula's qr

F

*

'emoved fron

N

I

!

lpa39)

rl' rTI T

Itafnas Charming beach town

park nearby. (p215)

Algodoal lsolated Iittle village on the edge of wild beaches near the mouth of the Amazon

-

Top: Rock paintings, Parque Nacional da Serra daCapivara (p555)

Eottom: Church ruins, Alcantara (p564)

i

the little-visited state of Esplritr Santo, with a wildlifejilled state

(p58s)

-! ; o c x =

I

26 Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauperi Magnificent rainforest reserve 500km north of Manaus. (p623)

Sio Paulo Gay Pride Parade

History You can delve into the past on a stroll through Brazil's ma8nifi cent colonial centers, some of which are Unesco Wodd Heritage sites.

S5o Miguel das Missdes Gateway to the mystical 17thcentury ruins left behind by Jesuit missionaries. (p26)

Salvador Bahia's star attraction is packed with historic churches and Afro-Brazilian culture.

The world's biggest gay pride parade, with an estimate three to four million in attendance.

(p236)

Oktoberfest Experience Brazil's European roots at this beerand bratwurst-loving bash in Blumenau. (p306)

(p402)

Bumba Meu Boi Slo Luis erupts with color, music and dance in this fascinating June

Brazil offers some memo-

Manaus Learn about indigenous

festival. (p561)

rable ways to experience its stunningly diverse

culture and history at this city in

Adventure

the heart of the Amazon. (p606)

landscapes, from multiday treks across dunes to

snorkeling in crystal-clear rivers.

Oum Preto One of Brazil's most alluring towns, hilly 0uro Preto is packed with lSth-century architectural treasures. (p182)

TrekkingTake the three- to four-day journey across the spectacular Len96is Mara-

Olinda Remnants of lovely architecture left by the Portuguese as well as the Dutch. (p497)

nhenses and see the dunes by

Alc6ntara Fascinating town in Maranhio full of restored

moonlight. (p564) Hang Gliding Soar over Rio's stunning tropical landscape on a tandem glide off a mountain. (p79)

Ecotourism Bonito is a great spot for adventure, with river snorkeling, cave crawls, hiking and rappelling (abseiling). (p39s)

Paraty Picturesque cobblestone village with beautifully preserved 18th-century buildings. (p137)

, Museu Hist6rico Nacional ;

One

of the best places to learn about the presence of the Portuguese

Cidade de Goiis A Unesco World Heritage site that's packed with architectural treasures from centuries past. (p352)

(p610)

Festivals

Slow-Boating String up your hammock and travel the oldschool way on a riverboat trip

Whether you prefer the colorful pageantry of Se-

between towns in the Amazon.

Kitesurfari

Samba, Afro-Brazilian

drumming, rock and hip-hop are all essential parts of the Brazilian lapa

The epicenter of Rio's

nightlife is packed with bars and samba clubs, and transforms into a street party on weekends. (p118)

:

Tree Climbing Get an intimate view of the rainforest canopy on an ascent inside the Amazon.

(p582)

fueled by the nation's incredible music scene.

soundtrack.

and abandoned mansions and churches. (p564)

royals in Rio. (p70)

ClimbingThe scenic highcountry Parque Nacional do Itatiaia is a must for hikers and rock-climbers. (plzt6)

Nightlife Nightlife here is electric,

mana Santa (Holyweek) or the unbridled revelry of Carnaval, Brazil has you covered.

Go on a longdistance kitesurfing adventure in Rio Grande do Norte, complete with vehicle support.

Camaval Many cities throw a wild preLenten bash, but Riq Salvador, 0linda and CorumM

(ps51)

are among the most festive. (p37)

SIo Paulo There's always something afoot inside this nightlifeloving metropolis. (p223) Pelourinho Salvador's historic center is the place to hear drum corps like 0lodum laying down the heavy rhythms. (p403) Lagoa da Conceicio Live music, lake views and top-notch DJs are the big draw of this town on llha de Santa Catarina.

(p301) Belo Horizonte Take in the lively arts scene and buzzing nightlile of the Minas Gerais capital. (p171)

B(zios Bask on the beach by day and hit the clubs by night at this stylish resort town. (p164)

27

MonthbyMonth a festive and pricey

TOP EVENTS Carnaval, February or March

Semana Santa, April or lr/ay

Bumba Meu Boi, June

Oktoberfest. October Reveillon, December

January Following the excitement of New Yearl Eve, Brazil starts off the year in high gea( with steamy beach days and the buzz of preCarnaval revelry.

*d

uvagem ao

Bonfim In Salvador, on the second Thursday in January this equal-parts Catholic and Candombld fest features a ritual washing ofthe church steps followed by

all-night music and dancins.

(p4,11)

February High season is in full swing, with people-packed beaches, sold-out hotel rooms and the unbridled revelry of Carnaval. lt's

time

to travel, and advance planning is essential.

{d

May May is a quiet time for tourism with cooler temperatures beginning to arrive (particularly in the south) and heavy rains still falling in the Amazon.

carnaval

In February or early March, for the five days preceding Ash Wednesday, the famous bacchanalian event takes place nationwide. It's liveliest in Rio, Salvador, Olinda and Corumb6, with parades, costumes and round-

*d

Balonismo Torres springs to life for five days in early May or late April when it hosts

the-clock merrymaking.

a colorful hot-air balloon festival. Concerts, extreme sports, films and a countrystyle fair are among the attractions. (p332)

April After Carnaval, prices dip, the intense heat subsides and the crowds dissipate, particularly in the north and northeast (when heavy rains continue through June). ln Minas Gerais, however, Holy Week festivals keep things lively.

f!

semana

Santa

In Ouro Preto, HolyWeek (the week before Easter) is a colorful event of proeessions and streets'painted' with flowers. S5o Jo6o del Rei's Holy Week features parades accompanied by fabulous traditional orchestras. Other well-known Holy Weeks happen in Congonhas and Cidade de Goi5.s.

restival

lnternacional de

*d viraaa

:

:

:

Gulturat

One of the best times to visit 56o Paulo is during this 2.l-hour cultural fest. It takes place all across

town and features concerts, film screenints, art exhibitions and other events. (p236)

*d resta do Divino Espirito Santo This old-fashioned folk festival in Piren6polis comprises medieval tournaments, dances and festivities. (p355)

v

28

June ln the south, winter arrives (with cold weather the

I

I

r

I

norm through August). Tourism-related activities remain curtailed (also through winter) in the north, south and northeast, though it's a good time to

t \

visit the Pantanal.

*d sao Paulo Pride It's official, 56o Paulo throws the largest gay pride parade on earth in early June, attracting more than three million people to this

',1

|

-t

massive parade. (p236)

{d

I

eumta Meu Boi

Maranhdo's magnificent mythic bull festival has African, Indian and Portuguese roots and features singing, dancing, poetry and countless ox costumes. Held from 13 to 30 June. (p561)

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Central BeIo Horizonte 16 Casa Cheia........................................... 83

O Top Sights

I

Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil........ C5 2 Memorial Minas Gerais - Vale........... C5 @ Sights 3 lvluseu de Artes e Oficios................... D2 4 l\,luseu Hist6rico Abilio Barreto ..........A7 5 Parque Municipa1................................ D4

u

Casa Cheia Savassi............................. D6 D2 B5 20 Martlia PiZZeria.................................... A6 21 Restaurante do Minas Tenis CIube................................................. 86

18 Dors6.................................................... 19 Glouton

C Drinking & Nightlife

g Sheping 6 Adrena Sport

22 Albanos Bar Gastron6mico...... 23 Batfize..........

7

24

8 9 ro

u

Hoste1...........................,C7 Hostel Savassi.... Hotel 1bis.............................................. C5 C3 Othon Palace Royal Savassi Hotel............................ C6 Samba Rooms Hoste1..........................B5

......... 85 ......... A5

Caf6 com Letras.......................

25 Caf6 com Letras - Centro

26

Cultural ................ Wals Gastropub....

.........

c5 87

O Entertainment

27 Pa1aciodasArtes................................ D4

E EatinS 12 Amadeus........................,.................... C6 13 Baiana do Acaraj6................................C7 14 Cantinado Lucas................................ C4 Carave1a........................................ (see 4) 15 Casa Amora... D6

O Shopping 28 Feira Hippie 29 Mercado Central

= 2 UI

........... C4

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................................. 83

F

= an

15 Savassi, Lourdes & South HosrELs *nostel Savassi

(A3l

3243-4771; www.hostelsavassi.com.br; Ant6-

6) This small and cozy hostel enjoys a dream location on a pedestrianized street in the heart of Savassi. The trio of four- to lo-person dorms (two for women, one mixed) offers thoughtful features such as individual reading lights and power outlets for every bed, while the bright upstairs guest kitchen and spacious downstairs lounge and TV area invite travelers to mingle. nio de Albuquerque 626; dm R$45-55;

le oriented hotel offers good online deals year- E a round, especially on weekends, when prices ! can get slashed nearly in half. Amenities in- ,t clude plush beds, big flat-screen TVs, minio bars, a rooftop Jaatzzi and the Amadeus (A313261'4292:

699: per kg lunch weekdaylweekend R$50/68, dinner R$95; 91l30amAlagoas

3pm & 6pm-2:30am Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) res-

taurant downstairs with its sumptuous lunch buffet. Weak links include lackadaisical customer service and inconsistent wi-fi.

!!

Pampulha

Pousada Sossego da

Pampulha

pousADASS

Adrena Sport Hostel HoSTELS (431 3657-9970; www.adrenasporthostel.com.

(A31

br; Av Getflio

EDEE) A stone's throw from Pampulha's lakeshore and the MineirSo football stadium, this pousada (guesthouse) is friendly, clean, well run and convenient for people arriving from the north. Amenities include a small pool and rooftop terrace with views of Belo Horizonte and the mountains. A taxi from Pampulha airport, 2km

Vargas 1635A; dm R$52-55, with Hl card R$47-50, d with shared/private bathroom

R$125l145; tr) This homey Hl-affiliated hostel in a 1950s Savassi town house is the

brainchild of Belo Horizonte local Pedro, who also owns the adventure-sports store downstairs. Six- to 10-bed sport-themed dorms with paragliding, skateboard and climbing wall decor are complemented by a small sitting are4 a welcoming kitchendining space and a back room where guests can linger over billiards and a beer. Royal Savassi

(E

31

HorELgS

B @ tr ) Well-positioned just Praga da Liberdade, this business-

699; r R$200-320:

east

Hotel

2138-0000; wwwroyalsavassi.com.br; Alagoas

of

3439-3250;

wwwsossegodapampulha. com.br; Av Jos6 Dias Bicalho 1258; s R$180-240,

d R$230-320;

away, costs about R$I5.

)(

e"ting

Belo Horizonte is teeming with good food for every budget. The area between Pra,qa Sete

and Praga da Liberdade is best for cheap eats, with countless lanchonetes (snack bars), self-serve

por kilo restaurants

and

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tt8 FIVE ESSENTIAL BELO HORIZONTE EXPERIENCES For a quintessential taste of the city, seek out at least one or two of the following:

r

Stroll through the cheerful chaos of stalls and restaurants at Mercado Cenkal (p181).

+ Spend a Sunday morning at the open-air Hippie Fair (p181).

. Explore the 23 art galleries and magnificent grounds at the lnstituto de Arte Contempordnea lnhotim (p175). . .

Take a stadium tour and visit the football museum at

Mineirio (p174).

Attend a performance or stop in for an evening drink at Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (p174). fast-food places. Further south, the Lourdes

and Savassi neighborhoods constitute the

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epicenter of the city's fine-dining scene. The lion's share of the non-mineira

Ns

restaurants specialize in Italian food, aIthough you can also find a world of other flavors ifyou look around.

\

fraqa da Liberdade & North

F Casa Cheia BRAzrLrANss E (E 31 3274-9585; www.restaurantecasacheia.com. o

br; Mercado Central, Loja 167; mains R$23-38; =. S10:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, l0am-lpm Sun) This

-

perennial Mercado Central favorite earns its name (meaning'Full House), with lines 2 regularly stretching out the door. Behind trao the counter, a bevy of women prepare giant stove, @ ditiona,J mineira favorites on a r including pratos do dfa Qow-priced daily r

o aD

o o f, N

specials) such as the not-to-be-missed Satur-

feijoada (Brazil's classic bean-and-meat stew). A branch in Savassi (8313234-6921; day

784, Savassi; mains R$23-38; Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) offers the same menu and prices.

Manoel o Cl6udio z. * llam-midnight --{

m

Dors6

(831

BRAZTLTANSS

3327-8516; www.facebook.com/dorsebar

erestaurante; Sapucai 271, Floresta; mains R$26Tue-Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-6pm Sun) One of several resto-bars

49; Sll:30am-midnight

lining Rua Sapucai above Belo Horizonte's train station, Dorse is a prime spot for late afternoon drinks, snacks and gazing

at sunset over the downtown skyline. Favorite menu items include grilled fish and meats, and original creations like brzschetta mineira - pd.o de queijo (cheese bread) topped with pork loin, linguiga garlicky pork sausage) ragt, or pears and gorgonzola.

Nicolau Bar da

Esquina

FUSToNSS

(831 33lti-6970;

wwwnicolaubardaesquina.com. br; Pouso Alqre 227, Horto; mains R$23-49; g6pm-midnight Tue-Fri, noon-midnight &t, noon-

6pm Sun) The brainchild of chef Leonardo PaixSo from Belo's renowned Glouton res-

taurant, this buzzy newmmer northeast of downtown puts a whole new spin on the neighborhood comerbar. The attractive highceilinged space draws a youthful crowd for reimagined mineira classics like Sdled pork vith carfaquinha cremosa (creamy hominy grits) and ora-pro-n6bis (cactus leaves), or sandwiches of charbroiled homemade linguiqa(Eaxlic$ pork sausage) with greens.

Cantina do Lucas BRAzrLrAN, rrALlAN gg 3226-7153; www.cantinadolucas.com.br;

(431

Av Augusto de Lima 233, Loja 18, Edificio Maletta; mains per person R$35-49; S11:30am-2am MonThu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to lam Sun) Tllcked off a busy downtown street on the ground floor of the Maletta building, this beloved local institution has been feeding belorizontinos into the wee hours since 1962. Vest-and-tieclad waiters navigate through a landscape of checked tablecloths and wood paneling,

hefting trays of mineira food and pasta. Especially popular after the Sunday Hippie Fair (p181) in nearby Parque Municipal.

X Casa

Savassi, Lourdes & South

Amora

BUFFETS

(831

3261-5794; www.casaamora.com.br; Paraiba 941, Savassi; mmls R$24-32; & 1t30am-3pm MonFri, noon-3:3Opm Sat) The concept is simple at this health-conscious lunch spot, founded by a trio of women: select one of the three daily specials (including one vegetarian option daily), add two or three side dishes of your choice, grab a glass ofjuice and decamp to the sunny outdoor patio or one ofthe cheery yellow tables up front.

179 Ca6

Restaurante-Bar

BRAzTLTANSS

(431 2528-22M; wwwcaerestaurantebar.com. br; 0utono 314, Sion; mains R$tl3-68; *61l:30pm Tue-Thu, noon-midnight Fri & Sat, noon5pm Sun) Locally sourced ingredients and

inventive twists on Brazilian and interna-

tional recipes are the focus at this classycasual restaurant opened by renowned Belo Horizonte chef Caetano Sobrinho. Mineiro cheese and meat platters share the menu with Peruvian-style ceviche, Uruguayan beef w"ith chimichurri and grilled fish with Bahian-style moqueca (fish stew) and coconut /arofa (safi6ed manioc flour garnish), all accompanied by a good selection of artisanal beers.

Marilia

(431

Pizzeria

PrzzA$S

3275-2027i www.mariliapizzeria.com.br; Marilia de Dtceu226: pizzas R$49-83: S6:30pm-

*Glouton

FUSroNsss

(Q

31 3292- 4237 ; www.glouton.com.br; Ba rbara Heliodora 59; mains R$65-95: 97-11:30pm Mon-Thu, noon-3pm & 7pm-12:30am Fri, noon-4pm & 7pm12:30am Sat) This intimate brick-walled bis-

tro with candlelit back patio is one of Belo's most romantic addresses. Award-winning chef leonardo Paixd.o peppers his menu with French classics, but hits his stride with fusion recipes featuring Portuguese-Brazilian ingredients like suckling pig, codfish, manioc, okr4 malagteta (pepper) and hearts of palm. For a perfect introduction, don't miss the delectable lO-piece degustagdo de petiscos (appetizer sampler).

Caravela

PoRrucuEsEsgs

(E 31 2531-3101;

www.restaurantecaravela.com. br; Av Prudente de Morais 202, Cidade Jardim; mains R$67-90; 011:30am-2pm Tue, 11:30am-

12:30am) Regularly voted one of Belo Horizonte's best pizzerias, Marflia eams

2pm

accolades

Lisbon-born chef Crist6v6o Laruqa moved his popular Portuguese restaurant from Belo Horizonte's suburbs to this sleek space overlooking the Abilio Barreto Historical Museum's leafy courtyard. Couples and families come here to enjoy treats from across the Atlantic like bolinhos de bacalhau (codfish fritters) or shrimp and ocl,oprus cata,planas (seafood stews served with rice), followed by

for its

chewy-crlspy oust,

top-qualiW mozzarella and deliciously fresh homemade tomato sauce. It draws a trendy, youthful crowd, with late hours and a fashionable, well-stocked bar deeked out floor-toceiling with backlit bottles. Restaurante do Minas Tenis

Glube

(231

3516-1310; Rua da Bahia

BUFFETS$

22M;

all,you-can-

eat buflet lunch weekday R$38, weekend R$5965, dinner mains per person R$33-79; Olunch 11:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun, dinner Spm-midnight Tue-Sat) For atmosphere and price combined, it's hard to beat the noon buffet at Belot tennis club. Gorge to your

heart's content in the parquet-floored dining room or on the palm-shaded back terrace overlooking the pool and waterslides. The Saturday speaalisfeijoada (Brazil's national dish), while Sunday's more elaborate

buffet includes shrimp. A la carte dinners are also served.

Baiana do

Acaraj6

erHhNg$

(831 3264-5804; www.facebook.com/baiana doacarajebh; AntOnio

de

acaraj6 R$14-28, mains for

Albuquerque 440;

2 people

R$96-151;

&noon-midnight Tue-Thu, to 12:30am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun) A little slice of Bahia just off Praga da Savassi, this bright, lively and in-

&

7pm-midnight Wed-Fri, noon-4:30pm & 2oU 7pm-midnight Sat, noon-4:3Opm Sun)

In

delicious homemade desserts.

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Pampulha

*xapuri

BRAzrLrANgs

(E3l

3496-6198; www.tucebook.com/Restaurante Xapuri; Mandacart 260, Pampulha; mains per person R$48-75; Snoon-1lpm Tue-Sat, to 6pm

Sun) Run

by the affable Dona Nels4 this

long-standing local institution 15km northwest of Belo Horizonte is renowned for its fabulous comida mineira (typical Mineira cuisine). Everything is served at picnic tables under a thatched root with children's entertainment and hammocks close at hand for

post-meal relaxation. The traditional wood stove blazes up front, while colorful desserts are attractively displayed in two long cases.

Q

=

orinring & Nightlife

Belo Horizonte is Brazil's self-proclaimed drinking capital, with thousands of botecos

formal bar-restaurant specializes in tasry acarajd (shrimp-stuffed brown bean fritters) served alongside pricier and more substantial dishes like moqueca (Bahian seafood stew). A popular spot for people-

(neighborhood bars) sprinkled throughout the ciw If you're visiting between mid-April and mid-May, don't miss the Comida di

watching over late-afternoon beers.

belo-horizonte; &mid-Apr-mid-May),

Buteco festival

(www.comidadibuteco.com.brl

in

which

o f o F F

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180 dozens of places compete to see who makes the best bar food. Originating right here in 1999, it has since expanded to over a dozen other Brazilian cities. Downtown, the 2nd floor of the indieintellectual Maletta building is home to several bars with great views from the consistently packed open-air balcony. Savassi and Sion are other prime late-night destinations, packed with sidewalk pubs and trendy dance clubs.

*c"rc com Letras (A3l 3225-9973: www.cafecomletras.com.br;

oAFE

Ant6nio de Albuquerque 781, Savassi; Snoonl1:30pm Mon-Wed. to midnight Thu, to lam Fri & Sat,S-llpm Sun; 6 ) With livejazz on Sundays, DJs Thursday through Saturday, and a bohemian buzz between sets, this bookstore-cafe

I

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is a fun place to kick back over light meals (R$25 to R$56) and drinks, browse the ,n shelves and enjoy the free wi-fi. There's a a second branch in the Centro Cultural an

Banco do Brasil

F

level: 910am-9pm) and

(Praga da Liberdade 450, lower

it

sponsors jazz per-

E formances cirywide at the annual Savassi an

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Festival

Wils

o (831

tn

(wwwsavassifestival.com.br;

Gastropub

&

Aug).

MI0RoBREWERY

3582-5628; Levindo Lopes 358,

Savassi;

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11:30am-2:30pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, noon2am Fri & Sat) Locals flock to this retail branch of Belo Horizonte's popular W?ils microbrew-

@

ery for weekday lunch specials (R$20 to

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R$30) and late-night weekend carousing. The

high-ceilinged, industrial-chic space serves over a dozen varieties on tap, from the bargain-priced X-W?ils lager to Hop Corn IPA to the intensely strong Quadruppel Belgian ale.

J6ngal

BAR

(831

3653-8947; www.jangalbh.com; Outono 523; 96pm-lam Tue-Fri, 2pm-1:30am Sat, 2-10pm Sun)

This cool and colorfirlly lit garden bar draws regular crowds for its creative mixed drinks and nightly musical offerings that run the gamut from samba to electronica. Choperia

Albanos

PUB

(www.albanos.com.br; Pium-i 6ll, Sion; &5pmmidnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-Spm Sun)

This beloved, award-winning brewpub,

with its sidewalk seating and high-ceilinged industrial interior featuring shiny vats and concrete floors, serves some of Beag6's best beer, with six varieties always on tap. Thereh

a second branch in Lourdes

(Rio de Janeiro 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-Spm Sun). 2076, Lourdes;

I

Bar

Tiz6

(431

3654-7

BAR

412;

www.facebook.com /lizeoficial:

Curitiba 2205, Lourdes; S5-10:30pm Mon & Tue, midnight Wed-Fri, noon-midnight Sat, noon-

to

l0:30pm Sun) Since 196Z this strategically located corner bar with tables spilling onto a long island of sidewalk has been drawing crowds with ice-cold buckets of beer and award-winning comida di buteco (bar food).

fr

entertainment

Belo Horizonte is a cosmopolitan town with a vibrant arts scene and plenty of nightlife. Online entertainment listings are available at wwwsoubh.com.br, guiabh.com.br and wwwuai.com.br/entretenimento. Pal6rcio das

Artes

(A31 3236-7400;

pERFoRMTNcARTS

www.fcs.mg.gov.brlespacos-

culturais/palacio-das-artes; Av Afonso Pena 1537)

Near the southern end of Parque Municipal,

this arts complex with multiple

perfor-

mance spaces and galleries is the hub of Belo's theater, dance and music-concert scene. Bar do Museu Clube da Esquina LrvE MUSrc 2512-5050, 31 99688-0558; www.bardo museuclubedaesquina.com; Parais6polis 738; t37:30pm-1am Tue-Fri, noon-2am Sat) Locals pack into this intimate Santa Tereza bar for live performances celebrating the legacy of the Clube da Esquina, Belo Horizonte's groundbreaking musical movement of the 1960s and '70s. Family members and musical associates of the club's revered co-founders make regular appearances.

(031

Sports Three football teams call Belo Horizonte home: Am6ric4 Atl6tico Mineiro and Cruzeiro. The last of these plays regularly in the city's legendary Mineir6o stadium, whose fame attained international proportions when it was selected as a venue for the 2014 FIFA World Cup and the 2016 Olympics. Buy tickets online (http://ingresso.cruzeiro.com. br) or in person at the stadium\ ticket windows. Even if you don't get a chance to see a match, it's well worth touring the stadium and the attached football museum (p174).

fl

stopping

Dorlt leave Belo Horizonte without visiting its two iconic maxkets: the daily Mercado Central and the Sunday Feira Hippie. Locals also favor

the many high-rise shopping centers downtown and Savassi's high-end boutiques.

l8l *Feira Hippie

MAR(ET

(Feira da Afonso Pena: Feira de Arte e Artesanato; Av Afonso Pena; S&m-2pm Sun) A Belo Horizonte

classig this Sunday street fair attracts massive crowds searching for clothing, jewelry street food and more. Located between Rua da Bahia and Rua das Guajajaras, and bordered by the soothing grcenery of the Parque Municipal, it's a fun place to wander and enjoy a slice of city life, even if you're not shopping.

f,Mercado Central (231

MARKET

3274-9497 ; www.mercadocentral.com.br;

Av

S 7am-6pm Mon-Sat, to lpm Sun) You'll find everything from parrots to peppers to perfume at this indoor market, a true Belo Horizonte institution. Shop for Minas cheeses and fresh produce, socialize at one of the bars or simply roam the aisles aimlessly for a wonderful slice of local life. Augusto de Lima 744;

@ Orientation Central Belo Horizonte has a grid of large avenidas (avenues), with another smaller grid superimposed at a 45" angle. The boundaries of the original planned city are defined by the ring road called Av do Contorno. lt's a hilly town, so trips are sometimes less straightforward than they appear on the map. The main drag is Av Afonso Pena, which runs diagonally from northwest to southeast, starting at the bus station at the northern end of downtown and running past leafy green Parque Municipal. From northwest to southeast, there are three pivotal praEas (squares): bustling Praqa Sete, just southeast of the bus station; serene PraEa da Liberdade, heart of the government-turned-museum district; and trendy Praga da Savassi, the center of Belo nightlife and cafe society.

0utside of downtown, Pampulha (8km north) is the neighborhood with most cultural attractions.

@ !nformation MEDICAL SERVICES For an ambulance or emergency medical care, call SAMU (Servigo M6dico de Atendimento de U196ncia) at 192 or SEU (Servigos de Enfermagem de U196ncia) a|313222-3322.

MONEY Banks with ATMs are clustered downtown between Praga Sete and Parque Municipal, and along Av do Contorno in Savassi.

TOURIST INFORMATION Belo Horizonte's municipal tourist bureau, Belotur (www.belohorizonte.mg.gov.br), is among the best in Brazil. Several branches are located around town.

Turismo (Efrom Belo Horizonte 156, from elsewhere 31 3429-0405; &24h) Belotur's tourist-inquiry hotline. Belotur Mercado Central (831 3277-4691; A16

www.belohorizonte. mg.gov.br; Av Augusto de Lima 744; 88am-4:20pm Mon & Tue, to 5:20pm Wed-Sat, to lpm Sun) 0n the ground floor of Belo's famous indoor market. Belotur Pampulha Lakeshore (12 31 32779987; www.belohorizonte.mg.gov.br; Av Otacilio NegrSo de Lima 855, Pampulha; 8am-5pm Tue-Sun) 0n the lakeshore in the northern suburb of Pampulha. Belotur Rodoviiria (A3l 3277 -6907; www. belohorizonte.mg.gov.br; Praga Rio Branco 100; S 8am-5pm) 0n the main floor of the bus station, near the entrance. Gentro de lnformaqtro Circuito Cultural

*

(www.circuitoliberdade.mg.gov.brlvisite-br; Av Bias Fortes 50, Praga da Liberdade; 99am6pm Tue-Sun, to 9pm Thu) lnformation center for the museums and other cultural attractions surrounding Praqa da Liberdade.

@ Cetting There & Away AIR Belo Horizonte has two airports. lnternational flights and many domestic flights use the renovated and expanded Aeroporto lnternacional de Belo Horizonte (CNF: Aeroporto Tancredo Neves; Aeroporto Confins; E 0800 -037-1547; www.bh-airport.com.br; Rodovia LMG 800, Km 7.9, Confins), 40km north of the city. The Aeroporto da Pampulha (PLU; Aeroporto Carlos Drummond de Andrade; Z 31 3490-2000; www4.i

nf

raero.gov. brlaeroportos/aeroporto-

de-belo-horizonte-pampulha-carlos-drummondde-andrade; Praqa Bagatelle, Pampulha), 10km north of the city center, is more conveniently located but only has limited domestic flights. Between them, the two airports serve most locations in Brazil. BUS Belo's long-distance bus station (83132718933, 31 3271-3000; Praga Rio Branco 100) is at the northern end of downtown.

TRAIN

Companhia Vale do Rio Doce

(trJ

0800-285-

7000: www.vale.com/tremdepassageiros: Aario R6is s/n; & 6am-4pm Tue-Sat, to noon Sun; 6) operates a daily train to Vit6ria (econOmica/executiya class R$73l105) in Espirito Santo state, departing at 7:30am from Belo Horizonte's train station (Praga da EstagZo), just north of Parque Municipal, and arriving at Cariacica/Pedro Nolasco train station on Vit6ria's western outskirts at 8:30pm. The return run leaves Vit6ria at 7am, reaching Belo Horizonte at 8:10pm.

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($ cetting Around

Ouro Preto

TOlFROM THE AIRPORT Expresso Unir (E3l 3689-2415; www. conexaoaeroporto.com.br) runs f requent, comfortable Conexao Aeroporto buses between downtown and Belo's two airports. The convencionalbus (R$12.70 to either airport) leaves Belo's bus station every 15 to 30 minutes between 4am and 10:30pm (slightly less frequently on weekends). Travel time is approximately 30 minutes to Pampulha airport, 70 minutes to Confins. Buses return from Confins between 5:15am and l2:20am. Unir also runs an executivo bus to Confins airport (R$27.70, 50 minutes) from its Terminal AlvaresCabral (D 313224-7002: Alvares Cabral 387), lust southwest of Parque Municipal, every 25 to 40 minutes between 3:30am and 9:40pm, returning lrom Confins between 6am and 12:30am. See the Unir website for complete schedules.

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PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Belo Horizonte's local buses, operated by BHTrans (Z 31 3429-0405: www.bhtrans.pbh. gov.br), are color-coded. Blue buses (R$4.05) go up and down main avenues in the city center, green express buses (R$4.05) only stop at select points, red-and-beige buses (R$4.05 or more, depending on distance) connect outlying suburbs to downtown, and yellow buses (R$2.85) have circular routes through the city. The city's newest public transport innovation, introduced for the 2014 FIFA World Cup, is the fleet of greenish-yellow buses painted with the M0VE logo. Designed to cut travel times in half, MOVE buses enjoy the use of exclusive bus lanes and loading platforms and offer special facilities for bicycles and wheelchairs, yet still cost the same as regular city buses (R$4.05). Downtown corridors for M0VE buses run along Av Paran6 and Av Santos Dumont, with the main northbound line to Pampulha traveling along Av Ant0nio Carlos and Av Dom Pedro l.

Eoxxar z PoP74,659 / ELEvuTgM Of aII the exquisite colonial towns scattered around Minas Gerais, Ouro Preto is the jewel in the crown. Significant historically as a center of gold mining and government, and as the stage for Brazil's first independence movement, the city remains vital in modern times as a center for education and the arts,

and is one of Brazil's most visited tourist destinations. Built at the feet ofthe Serra do Espinha4o, Ouro Preto's colonial center is larger and has steeper topogxaphy than any other historical town in Minas. The narrow, crooked streets ofthe upper and lower towns tangle together and in places are too rough and precipitous for vehicles. Navigating the vertiginous cobblestone slopes on foot can be exhausting, but the views of 23 churches spread out across the hilly panorama are spectacular. The ciw is a showcase of oulslanding mineiro axt and, architecture, including some of Aleijadinho's fi nest works.

History it that a servant in an early expedition exploring Brazil's interior pocketed a few grains of an odd black metal he found while drinking from a river near the current site of Ouro Preto. It turned out to be gold, Legend has

and the local deposits were soon discovered to be the largest in the New World. Gold fever spread fast. In 1711, Vila Rica de Ouro Preto was founded, and in 1721 it became the capital of Minas Gerais. Gold bought the services of baroque artisans,

who turned the city into an architectural gem. At the height of the gold boom in the

BUSES FROM BELO HORIZONTE DESTINATION

cosr

Brasilia

168-230

(Rs)

TIME (HR)

COMPANY

77-t2

Uniao (www.expressouniao.com,

br),

Kaissara (www.kaissara.com.br)

Diamantina

97

5

Pdssaro Verde (www.passaroverde.com.br)

Ouro Preto

34

2

Pdssaro Verde

Rio de Janeiro

81-166

6-7

Util (www.util.com.br), Cometa (www.viacaocometa.com.br)

Salvador

298

25

Gontiio (www.gontijo.com.br)

60

3t/,

ViaqSo Sandra (www.viacaosandra,com.br)

Sio Paulo

146-256

8-9

Cometa

Vit6ria

120161

9-10

Sio Geraldo (www.saogeraldo.com.br),

S5o

Joio del

Rei

Kaissara

r83 SABARA Sabar5,25km southeast of Belo Horizonte, was one of the world's wealthiest cities in the 18th century, when it produced more gold in one week than the rest of Brazil produced in a year. Now just a workaday suburb, it still retains many churches, mansions, statues, fountains and sacred art from those gold-mining days. All colonial attractions are signposted from central PraEa Santa Rita. Most charge small admission fees, and all are closed Monday. Highlights include the following:

Matriz de NS de ConceigSo (Praga Getrilio Vargas; S 9am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun) The triple-naved Matriz de NS de ConceigSo, finished in 172O, is a fascinating blend of Asian arts and Portuguese baroque styles. lgreja NS do 6 (Largo NS do 6; &9am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun) Diminutive and jewet-like, decorated in gold, red and blue and dedicated to the Virgin Mary in her role as protector of pregnant women. lgreja NS do Carmo (Rua de Carmo; I9-11:30am Tue-Sun) Aleijadinho's work predominates here, especially in the faces of S3o SimZo and S5o JoZo da Cruz. Teatro

M

unicip al (A313672-7728; www.facebook.com/teatromunicipaldesabara;

Rua Dom

=

Pedro ll; S8-11am & noon-Spm) GEEB Saba16's elegant 19th-century opera house.

an

Museu do Ouro (i2313671-1&E; www.museus.gov.brltaglmuseu-do-ouro; Rua da lntend6ncia 264; admission US$1; S 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-Spm Sat & Sun) A 1730s gold foundry

E

filled with historical artifacts.

lgreja NS do Ros6rio dos Pretos nanced by slaves, this halifinished

(Praga MeloViana; 08-11am & 1-5pm) Started and fichurch now stands as a memorial to slavery's abolition.

gi o Cisne (31 367 2-1222) ru ns buses to Sa ba rii (convenc i o n a I /e xe c ut i v o R$4.95/6.30, 40 minutes, every five to 15 minutes) from the street corner just southwest of Belo's marn bus station. Return buses leave from stops along Av Victor Fantini in V ia

Saba16.

mid-l8th century there were 110,000 people

(mainly slaves) in Ouro Preto, compared with 50,000 in New York and about 20,000 in Rio de Janeiro. In theory all gold was brought to casas de intenddnrfas (weighing stations), and a quinto d.o ouro (royal fifth) was set aside for the Portuguese crown. The greed of the Portuguese led to sedition, as the miners found it increasingly difficult to pay ever-larger gold taxes. In U89, poets Claudio da Costa, Tomds Antdnio Gonzaga, Joaquim Jos6 da Silva Xavier (nicknamed Tiradentes, meaning 'Tooth Puller,' for his dentistry skills) and others, full of French

Revolutionary philosophies, hatched an uprising against Portuguese colonization known

as

the Inconfid€ncia Mineira.

In 1897 the state capital was shifted from to Belo Horizonte, decisively preserving the city's colonial flavor. In 1980, Ouro Preto was enshrined as Brazil's first Unesco World Heritage Site.

Ouro Preto

O

sigtrts

There are virtually no 2oth-century buildings in this colonial town. As you wander,

watch for informative historical plaques that have been placed on 150 houses around town to heighten visitors' curiosity and expand their knowledge of the ciffs treasures - part of a ciwwide cultural initiative known as Museu Aberto/Cidade Viva.

Ouro Preto is divided into parishes, each with its own Matriz (mother church). If you stand in Pra4a Tiradentes facing the Museu

The rebellion was crushed in its early da Inconfidencia (pf8a), the parish of Pilar

stages by agents of the crown. Gonzaga was exiled to Mozambique and Costa did time in prison. Tiradentes was jailed for three years,

then drawn and quartered in Rio de Janeiro. His head was paraded around Ouro Preto, his house demolished and its grounds salted to ensure that nothing would grow there.

is to the right (west), the parishes

ofAnt6nio

Dias and Santa Efigenia to the Ieft (east). For a panoramic view ofthe churches and rooftops, head northeast out of Pra4a Tiradentes and wa.lk for five minutes along Conselheiro Quintiliano towards Mariana.

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History

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Originaly called Arraial da Ponta do Morro 3. (Hamlet on a Hilltop), Tiradentes was re,t named to honor the martyred hero ofthe In-

t

o confiddncia, who was born at a neaxby farm. o In recent yeaxs, the town, which sits at the

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center of a triargle formed by Brazil's three largest cities, has become a magnet for artists and other urban escapees. Today the historic center is home to only a couple dozen

(f origina.l Tiradentes families, intermingled r with new arrivals from around the world. z. --{ fr sigtrts a Tiradentes'center is a compact and photo genic cluster of cobbled streets. The town's colonial+ra buildings mn up a hillside ftom the main square, Largo das Forras,

O

Old Testament symbolism. Noteworthy elements include the polychrome organ, built in Portugal and brought here by donkey in 1798, and the seven golden phoenixes suspending candleholders from long braided chains. The famous sundial out front dates back to 1785.

lgreja NS Roserio dos

Pretos

with its many images of black saints, was built in 1708, by and for slaves. Since they had no free time during daylight hours, construction took place at niSht - note the nocturnal iconography in the ceiling paintings of an eight-pointed black star and a half-moon.

culminating in the beautiful Igxeja Matriz *Mr.u." Mineira de Santo Ant6nio. FYom the terrace in (832 33536654; www.mazuma.com.br; front of the church there's a stunning view of the t€rracotta-tiled colonial houses, the green valley and the towering wall of stone

formed by the Serra de Sdo Jos€. For another picture-postcard view of town, climb the hill just above the bus station to the gf,assy square in front of lgreja de S5o Francisco de Paula (Nicolau Panzera).

*

tgreja Matriz de Santo

Ant6nio

cxuncx

s/n; admission R$5: S9am-5pm) Named for Tiradentes' patron saint this (Padre Toledo

gorgeous church is one of Aleijadinho's last designs. The dazzling gold interior is rich in

cHURcH

(Praga Padre Lourival: admission R$3; &10am4pm Wed-Mon) This beautiful stone church,

DTsTTLLERY

S5o Ben-

to 300, Bichinho; 99:30am-5pm Thu-Sat, Mon & Tue, to 2:30pm Sun) Ifirfi If you've ever wondered how cachaga (Brazil's famous sutarcane alcohol) is made, this is a perfect place to learn. This small-scale alambique (distillery) with a focus on sustainable production offers free guided tours demonstrating every stage of the process, from haxvesting and milling of sugarcane, to f,lt€ring and separation ofthejuice, to distillation at high heat in elegpnt copper cooling towers, to ag-

ing in casks ofoak, Brazil nut or local pink jequitibS wood. It's located ftm northeast of Tiradentes.

199 Afterwards, taste the goods and purchase a bottle or two to bring home in the attached shop. Ideal times to observe the whole process are during the main June to August harvest season, or the secondary harvest in January and February Chafariz de

SSoJos6

(Rua do Chafariz)

FoUNTATN

Constructed in 1749 by the

town council and set against a verdant backdrop, this gor8eous fountain north of C6rrego Santo Ant6nio has three sections: one for drinljng, one for washing clothes and one for watering horses. The water comes from a nearby spring, Mde d'Agua via an old stone pipeline. Museu de

(A32

SantAna

3355'2798;

MUSEUM

www.museudesantana.org.

br; cnr Cadeia & Direita; adulVreduced R$5/2.50;

This innovative muTiradentes' former town jail was conceived by Belo Horizonte-based Angela Gutierrez, creator of Ouro Preto's Museu do Orat6rio (p185) and Belo Horizonte's Museu de Artes e Oficios (pV4,). The simple but beautifully presented collection features 270 images of St Anne in wood, stone and terracotta, from the ITth century to the present. Bilingua.l exhibits trace the importance of St Anne imagery throughout Brazil and its evolution through the baroque and rococo &10am-7pm Wed-Mon)

in

seum

periods.

Museu do

(932

MUSEUM

Brazilian priest and revolutionary hero Padre Toledo, this historical museum occupies the l8-room house where Padre Toledo himself once lived and where the Inconfidentes first met. The collection features regional antiques and documents

from the 18th century along with some fine ceiling paintings artistically reflected in floor-mounted mirrors.

f

with sun-dappled glens and

monkeys cavorting in the trees.

Trilha do

Carteiro

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This three-hour roundtrip hike climbs through open fields to a windswept saddle with gorgeous views of lhle serra (mountain ranBe). It includes a section of the old stone-paved road built by slaves between Ouro Preto and Rio de (Calgada dos Escravos)

Janeiro. To reach the trailhead, climb from Tiradentes' bus station to Igreja de 56o Francisco de Paul4 then follow the cobbled road

north, continuing straight at the first intersection and bearing slightly left at the second (following a brown sign marked'Serra de S5o Jos6'). Shortly after passing Pousada Recanto dos Encantos on your right, take the right (uphill) fork and continue straight another few hundred meters. Bear right again to stay on the cobblestones shortly after passing Pousada da Ttilha on your left, then just beyond a yellow house numbered 878 on the left, cross through a gate to find a cluster of signposts indicating the Ttilha do Carteiro. Fork left on the rickety brifue over the stream and start climbing to\Mard

EI

the saddle.

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Mostra de Cinema de

Tiradentes

a"tiriti"" dAgua

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(&8am-4pm) Tiradentes' most popular, least challenging trail leads to this natural spring that feeds the Chafariz de S5o Jos6 fountain. From the top of the fountain square, cross

through a simple wooden door in the old stone wall, continuing l0 minutes northwest along the viaduct into the jungle. It's

prizes and free open-air screenings in Largo das Forras.

Festival de Cultura e F00D&DR|NK

&Aug) This lO-day food festival brings world-class chefs to Ti-

(www.furturabrasil.com.br;

radentes.

lQ Steeping Tiradentes caters to well-heeled urban escapees and couples looking for romance. BuGet-minded and solo travelers can save

money by visiting midwee\ when some pousadas grant discounts.

Pousada da

Bia

(A32

3355-1173;

Ozanan

330: d

PoUSADAS$

www.pousadadabia.com.br;

midweek/weekend R$250/270;

6g) A few steps

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3. 7

2 FILM

&Jan) Entering its third decade, Brazil's largest film festival showcases contemporary Brazilian fi lmmakers with nine days of world premieres, juried

GastronomiadeTiradentes

E D

an

Festivals & Events

(www.mostratiradentes.com.br;

PadreToledo

3355-1549; www.ufmg.brlfrmfalmuseupadre-toledo; Padre Toledo 158; adult/reduced R$10/5; 910am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 4:30pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) Dedicated to lSth-century

Miie

a magical spot,

outside the historical

center, this long-standing pousada lovingly managed by French- and English-speak-

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200 ing owner Bia, features clean, comfortable rooms with shared verandas facing a fragrant herb garden and relaxing pool areaBreakfasts of fresh frfit, pdo de que$o (cheese bread), homemade cakes and mffee heated on the wood stove a.re served in a sweet glass-walled garden house.

Pousada Tr6s

(D32

Portas

PousADAgS

3355-1444; www.pousadatresportas.com. Direita 280a; r R$295-350: Sittins

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br: 6E) pretW in a historic building just above Tiradentes'main square, this pousa.da features rooms with beautiful antiques and hardwood floors, some with four-poster beds. The cheery upstairs sitting room with fireplace enjoys nice views of town and the mountains beyond; other amenities include a covered swimming pool and sauna. Pousada do

(832

6

PousADAss

3355-1699: www.pousadadoo.com.br;

Rua

do Chafariz 25; d midweek R$160-300, weekend R$290-390; 6) Set in an l8th-century house, Pousada do O enjoys a privileged location two blocks below the church in the heart of Tiradent€s. The original pousad4 featuring seven snug rooms around a small garden, is

supplemented by four larger rooms in the building above. Rooms 8 and U are the best ofthe bunch.

f

uotet Solar da

Ponte

pousADA$$$

(E

32 3355-1255: www.solardaponte.com.br; Praea das Merc6s: rmidweek R$660-950,weekend R$8251185; B@EE) Right in the heart of town,

Pouso

(D32

Alforria

pousADA3ss

3355-1536; www.pousoalforria.com.br;

Cust6dio Gomes 286: s/d R$390/rt30;

EDEE)

This classy, secluded pousada, tucked up a flagstoned driveway five minutes'walk north of the center, features eight rooms in modern style, a reading room full of art books and some nice views of the Serra de 56o Jos6. English and French are spoken. Pousada Richard

(E

Rothe

PoUSAoASSS

32 335S1333; wwwpousadarichardrothe.com.br;

r midweek4veekend R$370/4O0; On apicturesque street in the historic center, this stylish pousada has spacious Padre Toledo 124;

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suites, an elegant reading room with fire. place, and a small protected forest out back where monkeys come to play at dawn.

\

r"ting Angela

Tempero da

(832

BUFFET9

M; S noon-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) It's an 8km trip east of town, but you won t find a more authentic traditiona-l por-kilo place anyurhere in Minas Gerais. Every square centimeter of Angela's wood stove is covered with bubbling pots of comida mineira, with local cheese, goiabad,a (guava paste) and doce de leite (milk caramel) for dessert. 3353-7010; Rua Deputado Jos6 Bonifdcio

all-you-can-eat R$28;

Bar do

(832

Celso

BRAzrLrANSs

3355-1193: wwwJacebook.com/Restaurante BardoCelso: Largo das Forras 80a; mains R$22-43;

enoon-8pm Wed-Mon) On

the main square,

this locally run restaurant specializes in -{ r this magnificent re{reation of a colonial- down-to.earth mtneira fare at reasonable CN

era mansion is one of Brazil's finest hotels,

with first-rate food and service across the board. Rooms have fresh flowers, beautiful antiques, and comfortable chairs and beds. There's a reading room, complete with fireplace, and complimentary afternoon tea is served in the garden. Alma Serra

(432

Vila

PousADASSS

99837-9332, 32 3355-1521; www.almasera

vila.com; Santissima Trindade 420; d R$352-506; E ) A lO-minute walk above Tiradentes' Santo Antdnio church brings you to this peace-

ful, Italian-run hillside oasis. There are no in the Iuxuriously comfortable rooms; rather, guests are invited to relax with a book or simply soak up the divine views of the Serra Sdo Jos6 from a hammock in the TVs

soothingly green baclryard.

prices. Folks with less voracious appetites appreciate the R$25 prato mini, a smaller plate designed for one person.

will

*Emp6rio

Santo

Ant6nio

BRAzruANss

(832

3355-2433; B6lica 133: mains per person R$50-64, all-you-can-eat weekend buffet R$60; &noon-4pm Wed-Sun) At this edge-of-town

hideaway, run by the same family for nearly two decades, everything is lovingly homemade roast chicken, pork cheeks, artisanal linguiga (garlicl *t

tn

@ Cetting There & Away

,e

Seno (p209) and Saritur (p175) run buses from Belo Horizonte to the town of Santana do Riacho (R$29, ZYzhours, several daily from 6am to 4pm) just outside the park. For park headquarters, get off just before the Rio Cip6 bridge at the southern edge of town, then walk or hitch 3km east down the signposted dirt road on your right. For restaurants and most lodging, stay on the bus and continue through town.

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a 13,500-hectare chunk of back-

country within Unesco's Serra do Espinha4o

all-you-caneat buffet R$20, per kilo R$35; S11am-7pm Thu-

-o ,o

preserves

R$170-190;

T

Tabuleiro

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Approximately l80km north of Belo Horizonte, in the wild high country of Unesco's Serra do Espinha4o Biosphere Reserve, is Cachoeira Tb.buleiro, Brazil's third-highest waterfall. The dramatic 273m falls are protected witthin Parque Estadual Serra do Intendente (p210), a state parkjust outside the small town of Tbbuleiro. This remote spot makes a worthwhile detour for anyone traveling north between Parque Nacional da Serra do Cip6 and the historic mountain towns of Serro and Diamantina.

n E oxxsr

@

sigtrts *P"rqr" Estadual

Serra PARK do (D31 3868-2878; admission R$10; S&m-6pm,

lntendente

for viewpoint 5pm) This remote state paxlq 19km west ofConceiqao do Mato Dentro at the end of a rugged dirt road, last entryforwaterhll2pm,

lE

Sleeping & Eating

HoSTEL$ Tabuleiro Eco Hostel (E 31 3654'3288; www.tabuleiro-eco'hostel8.web-

node.com; Joaquim Costinha lb, Vila do Tabuleiro: campsite/dm/d incl breaKast R$40r0l150: About 3km east ofthe eponymous waterfall,

6)

Thbuleiro Eco Hostel offers grassy terraces for camping, plus dorms and private rooms in a series of colorful buildings running down the hillside. There's a small on-site cafe serving soups (R$15) and fixed-price lunches (R$20) when there's enough demand. Accommodations without breakfast cost R$15 less per person.

O Cetting

There & Away

The first part is easy: take a Serro (p209) bus from Belo Horizonte to Conceigio do Mato Dentro (R$56, 3% to 37+ hours, eight to 10 daily). The kick is getting from Conceiqao to Tabuleiro; local buses only leave at 3pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and at 2pm on Saturday, returning from Tabuleiro at 8am the same days (R$10, one hour). A one-way taxi between Conceigio and Tabuleiro costs about R$80.

Parque Natural do Caraga 0oxx:r

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Some 100km east of Belo Horizonte in the heart of the Serra do Espinhaqo, the Parque Natural do Cara4a is a blissful spot. Isolated

from the rest of the world by a mountain ridge, the park encompasses ll0 sq km of transition zone betrveen the Mata Atldntfua (Ailantic rainforest) and cerrado (savanna) ecosystems. The park's centerpiece, nestled in a bowl-shaped valley, is a former monastery and boarding school attended by several Brazilian presidents. Now converted to a pousada" it's still owned and run by the Catholic congregation who use the neo-Gothic church for services.

2tt The surrounding countryside includes several mountains, including Pico do Sol (at207Om, the highest point in the Serra do Espinhago), waterfa.lls and natural swimming pools. The hillsides are criss-crossed with hiking trails, all marked on a helptul map provided at the park entrance. The two towns nearest the park are Barao de Cocais and Santa B6rbara. Note that the park gate is only open from 7am to spm (or to gpm for pousada guests).

lI * do

Sleeping & Eating Pousada Santu6rio

Caraga

pousADA8ss

(A3l

98978-3179; www.santuariodocaraca.com. br: s R$305-330, d R$405-440. s/d with shared bathroom R$235l315, all incl full board; @@ Q Rooms at this peaceful, one-of-a-kind pousa-

da range from simple shared-bath quartos off the garden courtyaxd to larger apartamentos (tooms with bathroom), the best of which are in the Ala do Santuerio (Sanctuary Wing). All rates include three awesome mineira meals featuring local produce. The

big highlight of staying here is the nightly feeding of the wolves. Advance reservations required. Visit midweek if you can, as it's easier to see the wolves and appreciate Cara.ga's iso. lation and tranquility lrithout the crowds of weekend escapees from Belo. During less crowded periods breakfast is served in the more intimate downstairs dining room, where you can fry your own eggs on the wood-fired stove. Kids under seven stav for

r@

free, and those aged seven to l1 stay half price, ma.kjng this a superb deal for families.

@ Cetting There & Away Pissaro Verde (831

3073-75751 www.passaroverde.com.br) operates frequent buses from Belo Horizonte to Bario de Cocais (R$35, two hours, every two hours from 6am to 8:30pm). From 0uro Preto, Transcotta (p190) runs two buses Monday through Saturday to Santa 86rbara (R$34, Zthhours, T:25am and 1:45pm). The daily Belo Horizonte-Vit6ria passenger train operated by Vale (p181) also makes a stop just outside BarSo de Cocais, in Dois lrmaos (convencional /executivo R$22 / 36. leaving Belo Horizonte at 7:30am and arriving around 9am). From Santa Bdrbara, Bario de Cocais or Dois lrmios, a taxi to Parque Natural do Caraga takes roughly 30 minutes and costs around R$100. To reserve a taxi ahead of time, call C6lio do Tlxi

(t43r 99689-3098). E

-

Parque Nacional de Capara6

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This 250-sq-km national park

contains southern Brazil's highest mountains, including Pico da Cristal (2798m), Pico do Calga-

do (2766m) and the third-highest peak in

the country Pico da Bandeira

(2892m).

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-

Popular with climbers and hikers from all over Brazil, it affords panoramic views of o -D the Capara6 Valley that divides Minas GeF rais and Espirito Santo. The wide-open, ,o rocky highlands that predominate here are c r complemented by a few lush remnants of

THE MANED WOLVES OF CARAqA The maned wolf - lobo guari in Portuguese - is South America's largest wild canine, native to the cerrado (savanna) environment protected within the Parque Natural do Caraga. A few years back, one of Caraga's priests had the idea of befriending the wolves, St Francis style. After two years of patient work gradually tempting them toward the church with offerings of food, he gained the wolves'trust. Nowadays the feeding has become a naghtly ritual, open to overnight guests at the Pousada Santu5rio do Caraqa. After dinner in the monastery's old stone refectory, people drift out to the patio. The ceremonial tray of scraps for the wolves is placed on the flagstones just past sunset, while popcorn, herb tea and cachaga (sugarcane alcohol) are provided for the humans. Then the waiting begins. Even on nights when a wolf never comes, the meditative pleasure of sitting under the stars, trading conversation and soaking up CaraEa's tranquiljty is a magical experience. But wait patiently enough and you may be rewarded...with the patter of feet, the sudden hush rippling through the crowd, the scamper up the steps, and the wild eyes of this beautiful creature come to steal a quick meal and then vanish again into the night.

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o

212 Mata AtlAntica (Atlantic rainforest) at lower elevations.

The park entrance

(www.icmbio.gov.

br/parnacapanot foreigner/Brazilian R$33/17; S 7am-6pm) GEEB is zkm steeply uphill from the nearesttown, Alto do Capara6. Between November and January there's lots of rain. The best time for clear weather is between June and August - although these are the coldest months. Bring warm clothes!

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Bandeira

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Sleeping & Eating

Alto Caparab's lone hotel and small collection of pousadas axe strung out along the town's long main street" Av Pico da Bandeira-

Hikers can make use of the national u ,o park's four rustic campgrounds: TronqueiC

m z.

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ra

([email protected])

[068)

entrance, the region's spifnest hotel offers comfortable rooms and chalets set amid manicured grounds. It also has tlvo pools, a sauna, a natural swimming hole in the adjacent Rio Caparao, an on-site restaurant and a pizzeria- It's a civilized spot to unwind after a day in the wild.

($ Cetting There & Away To reach Capara6 by bus from Belo Horizonte

The classic hike to the summit of Pico da Bandeira can be made without climbing gear or a guide, as the trail is gradua.l and well marked. You can drive or take a taxi to the trailhead at Tfonqueira, 8km up a steep dirt road from the park entrance. Cars are prohibited beyond Tlonqueira. Flom here, gradual 9km climb leads to the summit. ln a i Allow about three hours for the ascent, and two hours to get back down. tn = Ifyou prefer to hike with a guide, various F agencies around town offer guided excuran sions, including predawn departures arrivat ing at the summit in time for sunrise. =.

o o

480, q R$780-835; &daily Jan & Jul, Thu-Sun rest of year; Above town near the park

l'liMl 616

Lt-

or Vit6ria (Espirito Santo), head first to the tiny town of Manhumirim, 25km outside the park. Pdssaro Verde (www.passaroverde.com.br) operates three daily buses from Belo to Manhumirim (R$101 to R$172,6L/zto7l/+hours). From Vit6ria, Aguia Branca (www.aguiabranca.com. br) runs a daily 5:50pm bus direct to Manhumirim (R$52, 4tlz hours). Rio Doce (E 33 3314-1700; www.viacaorio doce.com.br) runs buses from Manhumirim to Alto Capara6 (R$6.05,55 minutes, nine daily from 6:30am to 8pm, returning 6:25am to 9:10pm). Alternatively, it's a half-hour taxi ride (about R$75). Manhumirim's Palace Hotel (E 33 3341-2255: http://palacehoteldeman humiriml.placeweb.site; Av Lauro C6lio 656: s/d R$80/120, with shared bathroom R$50/90; E @ tr ), diagonally across from the bus station, is perfectly adequate if you're stuck here overnight. An alternative option from Vit6ria is Aguia Branca's 7am bus to Manhuaqu (R$50 to R$53, 4% hours), where Rio Doce buses connect to Alto Capara6 (R$14, 1Yz hours, eight daily).

reireo

([email protected]) EEB on the Minas Gerais side, and Casa Queimada ([email protected]) EEB and Ma-

cieira ([email protected]) GEEB on the Espirito Santo side. All sites have flush toilets and cold showers. Bring drinking water, food and gear, and reserve sites by email.

T

Pousada do

u o

(A 32

Bezerra

PousADAg$

3747 -258: wwwpouvdadobezerra.com.br;

Av Pico da Bandeira: s/d incl breakfast R$150/240; @

6

@

) Run by the same family for over 25

years, this friendly plare just below the park

entrance has a sauna for soothing weary muscles, a river-fed pool with a waterslide for kids, and an attached restaurant specializing in trout (mains for two people R$58 to

R$ilg).

Hotel

HoTELS$$ Capara6 Parque (@32 3747'2559: www.caparaoparguehotel.com. br; Av Pico da Bandeira; s R$295-355, d R$390-

ESPIRITO SANTO POP 4 MILLION

Often overlooked as a destination due to its lack of high-profile attractions, Espirito Santo is an enjoyable place to mingle with Brazilians without the hrce and higher prices of neighboring Rio and Bahia states. North of the stat€ capital of Vit6ria lies idyllic Itafnas, a beach town surrounded by sand dunes, beloved for its tranquil natural setting and its exuberant anmalforr' (popular music ofthe Northeast) festival. Further south, Espirito Santo's beaches cater to vacationing families from neighboring Minas Gerais. Here you'll find low-key beach resorts interspersed with fishing villages, all infused with a cheerful holiday buzz. Inland, Espirito Santo's mountains form an exquisit€ patchwork of jungled grcenery and domed roclry

2t3 SAFE HAVEN FOR AN ENDANGERED PRIMATE The muriqui (woolly spider monkey), largest primate of the New World, is a stunning creature. Adult males stand roughly 1.5m tall, and their movements and physical presence can be startlingly humanlike. The animal's photogenic qualities have made it a poster child for wildlife preservation in Brazil, but actually seeing one in the wild can be challenging. At the time of writing, there were only a few thousand left in the world - including less than 500 of the rarer n ofthern muriqui - down from an estimated 4OO,OOO at the time of Portuguese colonization. Three factors explain the murigur's'drastic drop in numbers: destruction of their native Mata AtlSntica (Atlantic rainforest) habitat, their own docile nature (therr Tupi name means'easygoing folks') and the slow pace of their reproductive cycle. Female murlquls generally give birth to a single baby after a gestation period of eight months, and newborns stay with their mothers for up to three years, during which time no new mating occurs. Muriquis are slow moving and less combative than most other primates - indeed, they spend most of their time eating, playing and hugging each other! So they've historically been easy targets for hunters. EstagSo Biol69ica de Caratinga (1233 3322-2540; www.preservemuriqui.org.brl estacao.htm; park entry fee per person R$120, plus guide R$200; 98am-5pm) Q , a remote and little-visited nature reserve in eastern Minas, is the easiest place to spot muriquis in the wild. The reserve has played a critical role in rescuing the northern muriqul from extinction. ln 1944 there were only eight muriquls on record here, when local coffee farmer Feliciano Abdalla committed himself to preserving a large chunk of the native Atlantic rainforest on his property. Forty years later, the Estaqao Biol6gica was established, and in the three decades since, research and preservation efforts have led to greater understanding of the muriqui and an impressive resurgence of its numbers. Today there are approximately 165 northern murlquls living within the reserve, representing roughly a third of the world's population. Seeing the primates in their natural habitat is an amazing experience, and visitors have a better-than-average chance of a sighting, thanks to the expert skills of local guides. To arrange a day visit, call or email the park office. Bring sturdy shoes for quick scrambles up the hillside, and don't wear red muriquistakethis as a sign of aggression. May is an especially good month to visit, as the muriqui's tavorite food source, Mabea f istulifera. is in flower and the animals may linger in a single spot for long periods feeding on the nectar. lpanema and Caratinga are the transport hubs nearest the park. P5ssaro Verde (www. gabrasil.com.br) runs two daily buses from Belo Horizonte to lpanema (R9127, eight hours), and one early-morning bus from Ouro Preto to Caratinga (R$86,5% hours). SZo Geraldo (www.saogeraldo.com.br) also runs an overnight service from Vit6ria (Espirito Santo) to Caratinga (R$74.5% hours). From either Caratinga or lpanema, Rio Doce (p212) runs buses to the entrance of the reserve (R$19, two hours from Caratinga; R$9, one hour from lpanema); ask to be let off at the EstaEao Biol6gica. From the bus stop on Hwy BR-474, it's a 2km walk up a d jrt road to the park headquarters. lpanema is your best bet for an overnight stay. The centrally located hotel lt5lia Palace (833 3314-1793; www.italiapalacehotel.com; Av 7 de Setembro 383: s/d with fan R$75l125, with air-con & minibar R$125/175; EB 6) offers decent value.

-

outcroppings, culminating in the spectacularly scenic state park of Pedra Azul. Even without all these scenic attractions,

it

would be worth visiting Espirito Santo

just to eat. local seafood specialties such as moquecct and. torta capi.uaba (seafood frittata with olives and hearts of palm) are famous throughout Braz il.

Vit6ria Aoxxzt t

Pop363.140

Built on an island just off the Atlantic coast and connected to the mainland via a series of bridges, Espirito Santo's capital have some attractive sandy beaches and a lush backdrop of mountains descending to the

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2t4 sea that's vaguely reminiscent of Rio. The capi.sabos, are warm and locals, known friendly, and the city has a flourishing economy, which means many universities, bars, restaurants and hotels. That said, Vit6ria is first and foremost an industrial port city, and its aesthetic appeal is easily lost on first-time visitors. Given the ciry's size, it takes time to discover its dia-

x

monds in the rough - the elegant yellow lSth-century government palace, the striking hilltop convent in Vila Velha (the first place in Espirito Santo to be colonized) and the nationally famous Garoto chocolate factory - so ifyou're in a hurry, your best bet may be to treat Vit6ria as a transport hub and move on.

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Osigtrts

& Activities

The city's best beaches are Praia do Camburl to the north, and Praia da Costa to the ,n t south, in the sister city of Vila Velha. a, =

lc

Convento da

(An

Penha

ooNVENT

3329-0420; www.conventodapenha.org.br; .A Rua Vasco Coutinho; S5:l5am-4:45pm Mon-Sat, 3. from 4:15am Sun) This 16th{entury convent atop the densely forested Morro da Penha o is a must-see. The panoramic city views tn

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are magnificent, and the chapel (founded in 1558) isnt too bad either. It's a major pilgnmage destination - around Easter expect massive crowds paying homage to NS da Penha some climbing the hill on their knees. PALAcE Anchieta Palace (827 3636-1032; www.fucebook.com/palacio

S 9:30am-5pm TueVit6ria's grandest historic building is this former Jesuit college and church, now the seat of state government. Free .lo-minute guided tours include the original l6thtentury foundations, artifacts discovered during renovation, and the tomb of Padre Jos6 de Anchieta O534-gD, an early missionary hailed as the Apostle of Brazill Weekend tours (50 minutes) visit additional rooms reserved for government functions on weekdays.

anchieta; Praga Joao Cllmaco; Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) EEB

Parque

Moscoso

(Av Cleto Nunes) Capi.uabas

PARK

like to walk and

relax in the leaff Parque Moscoso, just west ofthe city center.

GarotoChocolateFactory F00D&DRlNx (827 3320{000; www.garoto.com.br; Praga Meyerfreund

l;

factory/museum

tour R$25l5:

&9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Brazil's best chocolate is made and sold right here, at Gaxoto's factory and store. Reserve ahead online for a 114-hour factory tour (in Portuguese) that includes a chocolate tasting. For a short glimpse of Garoto's history visit the adjacent three-mom museum, which houses vintaiSe machinery advertisements and a wonderful traveling sa.lesman's case filled

with chocolate. Tbke bus 50O to Vila Velha, then transfer to bus 5O3,507, 525 or 526

lI

Sleeping & Eating

Chain hotels predominate in Vit6ria and offer the city's best valtre for money. Staying out at the beach is a much more attractive option than downtown, which is deserted after nightfall. The rvaterfront Praia do Canto neighborhood offers the city's best eating and nightlife. Check out the Tliingulo das

Bermudas, a neighborhood packed with bars, eateries and nightclubs centered on the intersection of Joaquim Lirio and JoSo da Cruz. Crowds also gather at Curva da Jurema, populated by shacks that serve snacks and food into the wee hours.

lbis

Vit6ria

HoTELSS

(A27 2104'4850l, www.ibis.com.br; Joio da Cruz 385, Praia do Canto: r R$165-270; B@6) wellpriced given its prime location, this chain hotel sits right at the edge of the Tlidngulo das Bermudas, Vit6ria's nightlife hub, and is only a few blocks from the beach. BreaKast

costs R$23 extra. There's another Ibis with identical prices l.Slr.rn north opposite the Camburi beachfront.

Senac llha do

(0

Boi

HorELss

27 3345-011t www.hotelilhadoboi.com.br:

Br6u-

8@68)

For a

lioMacedo4lT; rfromR$230;

night of luxury this is an excellent choice. a hill with sweeping views ofthe surrounding bay. The service is impeccable and the amenities delightful, including a tennis court, solarium, piano bar, pools and saunas.

Its located on top of

*pi.ao (A27 32271165;

sEAFooQ$$$

www.piraovitoria.com.br;

Joaquim Lirio 753, Pnia do Canto; mains for 2 people R$90-230: &11am-4pm & 6-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) With awardwinning ?noquecas (featuring everything from whiting to shrimp to lobster) and forta capiaaba (seafood frittata lrith olives

and hearts of palm), Pir6o has earned a

2t5 'Terminal Carapina.'Taxis from the airport cost around R$35 to Praia do Canto or R$45 to the city center. An Uber will cost about half as much.

reputation as one ofVit6ria's finest restaurants. On warm evenings, sit outside under the awning to watch the endless parade of passersby and catch tunes from the live music venue across the street.

BUS Local buses (R$3.40) run from the various stops outside the bus station; the route is written on the side of each bus. For the center, catch any bus that goes along Av Vit6ria and get off after you pass the yellow Anchieta Palace on your left. For Praia do Camburi, catch any bus that goes along Av Dante Michelini. For Praia do Canto and Tri6ngulo das Bermudas, take any bus that goes along Av Saturnino de Brito. To Vila Velha and Praia da Costa catch any bus marked Praia da Costa.

@ lnformation ATMs for several banks are clustered together inside the bus station.

Esplrito Santo's state government operates two conveniently located tourist information booths: in the arrivals hall at the airport (Via do Aeroporto; *7am-1pm & 2-7pm) and opposite track 6 at the bus station (Av Alexandre Brjaiz 350; 07am-1pm & 2-7pm).

($ Cetting There & Away

ftarfinas t

AIR

Eoxxzt

With a spiffy new terminal opened in 2018, Eurico Salles Airpofi(A27 3235-6300; www. infraero.gov.br) is 12km northeast ot the city center. Flights leave regularly for Belo Horizonte, Rio, Sio Paulo and other Brazilian cities.

Surrounded by a majestic state park and encroaching sand dunes, Itarinas masquerades as a sleepy fishing village most of the year. However, around New Year's Eve and Carnaval (February/March), and again in July, it's a party-mad town filled with young Brazilians who come for lhe lively forr6 dance parties as much as for the beautiful surroundings. Near the Bahia border 270km north of Vit6ria, Itarinas is one of those raxe places that manages to retain a low-key'end of the road' feel despite the intermittent barrage of tourists. Many visitors fall under the town's easygoing spell and end up staying longer than they expected. More than fifty years ago, sand dunes engulfed the original village of Itatnas, which was set about lkm closer to the ocean than it is now - these days the old church tower and other ruins lie completely buried in sand, marked only by an interpretive sign.

BUS

Vit6ria's teeming, modern bus station (A27 3203-3666; Av Alexandre Buaiz 350) is just west of the old town center. TRAIN Companhia Vale do Rio Doce (p181) runs a daily

train to Belo Horizonte (econAmica/executiva R$73l105, 13 hours) from Estagio Ferroviiria Pedro Nolasco (Av Mario Gurgel s/n, Cariacica), 5km west of downtown Vit6ria in Cariacica.

{S cetting Around TO^/FROM THE AIRPORT

Between the airport and the city center, take local bus 539 (R$3.40); buy tickets onboard. Going into Vit6ria, the bus is marked'Jardim Am6rica.' Returning to the airport, it's marked

popzsoo

BUSES FROM vlT6RIA DESTINATION

cosT (Rs)

TIME (HR)

BUS COMPANY

Belo Horizonte

112-152

9

56o Geraldo (wwwsaogeraldo.com.br), Kaissara (www.kaissara.com.br)

Conceigio da Barra (for

Martins Guarapari PedraAzul Porto Seguro Rio Salvador Domingos

ltafnas)

68-90

5-6

Aguia Branca (www.aguiabranca.com.b0

14

l-lVt

Aguia Branca

17

lV+

Planeta (www.viacaoplaneta-es.com.br)

27

2

Aguia Branca

149-259

11

Aguia Branca

140-255

8

Aguia Branca, Kaissara

240-270

22

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sigtrts & Activities *P".qre Estadual de ltarinas (A27 3762-5196; www.iema.es.gov.brlPEl; SSam-5pm) y'trE rne 36.7-sq-km Par-

Reveitlon on New Year's Eve draws up to 10,000 visitors each year. Carnaval also draws a festive, youthful crowd.

que Estadual de Itarinas extends for 25km along the coast and has impressive 20mto 3om-high sand dunes that afford magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean and

(Festival Nacional de Fon6; www.fonodeitaunas. com; $Jul) For l0 days in mid- to late July,

PARK

the surrounding

mangrove forest and

wetlands. The wilderness here is home to monkeys, sloths, jaguati,ricas (wildcats) and sea turtles, who come onshore from September to March to lay eggs. The park

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FENF]T

DANCE

Itafnas hosts this national festival celebrat-

ingforri

(popular music of the Northeast). Big-name performers pour in from all over Brazil, and there's music and dancing all day and night.

Pousada & Camping A

flora" fauna and culture, along with a sou-

CAMPGROUND

Trilha das

Dunas

WALKTNG

Just outside town, the state park's most popular hike is this lkm trail across the dunes to a cluster of beachside

(Dunes Trail)

= barracas (stalls

selling beer and seafood). F From Itatnas, cross the bridge over the rivn er and follow the dirt road until the dunes ta a/,

,

slope down to meet it. At the crest of the

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clearly signposted.

first

=. dune, panoramic views ofthe ocean unfold. -{ Off to the right, the site of the original o aa village of Itarinas (now buried in sand) is Riacho

Doce

wALKTNG

Ambitious hikers can follow the long, flat = beach 8km north from Itarinas to Riacho C. z Doce, a small river tfiat forms the border be-

a

Festivals & Events

office ([email protected]; SSam-Spm) /, in the village next to the Rio Itarinas bridge, has informative displays about the local venir shop.

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{d

tween Espirito Santo and Bahia- You'll know you've arrived when you see the hand-painted sign on the far side 'Sorri,a - oocq estd na Bahia!'(Smile - you're in Bahia!). Near the river mouth, Pousada do CelsSo (827 99951-9834: Riacho Doce; mains per person R$30: EB

) serves tasw homer

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Centro &Around &

Museu Arte Sacra (200m)

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@Top Sights

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5 Mercado

Sao Caetano -O.2miles

6 Mosteiro

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Terminal Tieto Bus Station (s\n)

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Pdteo do Co|16gio......................,.......... E6 Pina_Estac6o...........-...................(see 15) 21 Praqa da 56.......................................... E7 22 Solar da Marquesa...............................E6

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20

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8

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Av Senao,o.

Caixa Cu|tura1.......................................E6

10 Casa da lmagem ..................................E6 11 Catedral da 56......................................D7 12 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil........ D6 13 College of Law..................................... D6 14 Edificio Martine|1i................................ D5 15 EstaQao J0lio Prestes...............,......,... Cl 16 lgreja de Santo An10nio...................... D6 lgreja de Sao Francisco de Assis....... D6 18 lgreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo........E6 Memorial da Resistoncia............(see 15) 19 Museu da Lingua Portuguesa............ D2

@Luz R Paub

Municrpa1............................... C5

@Saghts

9

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Municipa1..............................F 4 S5o Bento.............................E4

7 Pina_Luz

8 Theatro

F+--*-

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Edificio Copan......................................A5

2 Edificio 116|ia....................,................... 85 3 Estagaoda Luz.................................... D2 4 Farol Santander

E

I

r

Bento

23 SP Free Walking Tour......................... 85

A Casa do Porco ..................................45 27 Casa Mathilde D5 28 Esfiharia Effendi................................... E1

29 Estadao................................................ 86 30 Famiglia Mancini -................................. A7 31 Hot Pork................................................A5 B6 32 Ramona 33 Rinconcito Peruano............................ C3

C Drinking & Nlghtlife

*,fl

Bar da Dona Onqa......................... (see 1) 44 8arouche............................................. 35 Fe|......................................................... 85

34

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36 lekitsch.....................................,......... A6 37 Love S1ory............................................A5 18i Frl

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O Entertaanment Sala Sao Paulo

.(see 15)

Theatro Municrpa1........................ (see 8)

6Shopping

38 Feira da Praqa da Rep0b|ica..............84

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A7 24 155 Hotel.... 25 Novotel SP Jaragu5............................ 86

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{) Activities, Courses & Tours

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232

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Higien6polis, Pacaembu & Barra Funda Northwest ofAv Paulista lies the leaff neighborhood of Higien6polis, one of the mosttraditional of the city's upscale neighborhoods and a good spot for a snoll. Pra4a Buenos

a tree-filled, European-style square, serves as the neighborhood's lungs and playground. As you continue northwesq you pass

Aires,

through Pacaembu, a low-rise neighborhood of ramblingly luxurious homes reminiscent of upscale los Angeles and home to the excellent Museu do Fltebol (p232). Finally, you reach Barra Funda, a more workaday neighborhood that at night comes alive with some ofthe city's trendiest nightclubs. Museu do Futebol MUSEUM (Map pZM: www.museudofutebol.org.br; Prag Charles Miller s/n, Pacaembu; adulVstudent R$12l6,

ls o at,

,n U>

o ! C r

o

9 -{

Tuefree; &9am-6pmTue-Sun; ED) T\rcked under the bleachers of colorfully art deco Pacaembu Stadium, this fantastic museum is devoted to Brazil's greatest passion - football (soccer). Its multimedia displays over two floors manage to evoke the thrill of watching a championship game, even for nonfans.

O Avenida

Paulista, Jardins

& Around There are several worthwhile museums and cultural centers of note on and around Av

Paulista, including Latin's America's most important West€rn art museum, Museu de Arte de 56o Paulo. Largely residential Jar-

dins isn't long on points of interest but does harbor the excellent Museu Xngu, a fascinating collection ofAmazon tribal artifacts.

*Mrs",

de Arte de S5o

Paulo

America's most comprehensive collection of Western art. Hovering above a concrete plaza that turns into an antiques fair on Sunday (and acts as a protest gathering point almost always!), the museum, desig:ned by architect Lina Bo Bardi and completed in t968, is considered a classic of modernism by many and an abomination by a vocal few.

The collection, though, is unimpeachable, and ranges from Goya to El Greco to Manet. The impressionist collection is particularly noteworthy. There are also a few great Brazilian paintings, including three fine works by Cflndido Portinari. The permanent collection is housed in glass panels wedged in concrete bases, an original Bo Bardi design that was taken away in 1996 but returned in 2015. Regrettably, the museum seems rather neglected by its guardians, with public areas looking shabby in places. More shocking was the theft in 2007 of paintings by Portinari and Picasso, which revealed that a museum with a billion-dollar collection lacked motion detectors or cameras with infrared capabilities. Fortunately, the two paintings were eventually recovered. Parque Siqueira

Campos

(Map p244; Peixoto Gomide 949, Jardins;

There's no sugarcoating it: Brazil can be expensive depending on its currency fluctuation. and Sao Paulo is the beast of the bunch. But that doesn't mean you can't have fun on a shoestring budget. ln addition to free admission on Saturdays at Museu Afro-Brasil and Museu de Arte Moderna, our favorite freebies include:

+ Mosteiro Sao Bento (p228) + lnstituto Moreira Salles Japan House

+

SP Free Walking Tour

.

SESC Paulista

eARK

86am-

from the Museu de Arte de S5o Paulo (MASP) lies Parque Siqueira Campos, a beautifully designed and maintained park that re-creates the Atlantic rainforest that was leveled to build S5o Paulo. It's a remarkably tranquil refuge just off 6pm) Just off Paulista across

FREE SP!

. .

MUSEUM

(MASP; Map p2zl4; wwwmasp.art.br; Av Paulista 1578, Bela Vista; adulVstudent R$35/12 free Tue: 8l0am-6pm 10am-8pm Tue, to 6pm Wed-Sun) Sampa's pride, this museum possesses Latin

Casa da lmagem(p227)

(p236)

the ciqy's busiest street.

f

Museu

Xingu

MUsEuM

(Map p244; wwwcasaamarela.art.brlespacos/ museu-xingu; Jos6 Maria Lisboa 838, Jardins; &10am-4pm Mon-Fri) EEB Relatively unknown and blissfully uncrowded, the unassuming Casa Amarela is part NGO handicra"ft shop (p255), parL two-table romantic

cafe and part tiny Museu Xingu. The last of these has one the world's best collections of axtifacts from Irmaos Villas-Bdas, a three-brother Brazilian a.ctivist team who

233 were the first white men to ever come in contact with upper Xngu river indigenous communities of the Amazon.

f

Rua Oscar

Freire

Elsewhere on various floors, rotating cut-

ting-edge audiovisual and tech-leaning art exhibitions are also worth a gander, but it's really all about the view.

STREET

(Map p244: www.oscadreiresp.com.br: Rua Oscar Freire, Jardins) Thke a stroll down BrazilS 'Ro-

O Parque Ibirapuera

deo Drivei a lea$, tree-lined thoroughfare brimming with cafes, concept stores and

Designed by renowned landscape architect Roberto Burle Max, Parque Ibirapuera was

flagship boutiques, topend restaurants,

inaugurated in 1954, to commemorate the ci!y's 400th anniversary. A series of landmark buildings in the park are the work of Oscar Niemeyer; most of them are linked by a long and distinctively serpentine covered walkway. At the north entrance stands Victor Brecheret's huge Monumento Bandeiras, erected in 1953 in memory of the city's early pioneers.

beautiful people and usually a celebrity or two. It is said to be the eighth most luxurious street in the world, and clocks in as some of the most expensive real{stat€ per sq meter in Latin America. The people-watching is ace!

House

Japan CULTURALoENTRE (Map p2M; www.japanhouse.jplsaopaulo; Av Paulista 52, Bela Vista; ElOam-lOpm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) GEEE You can't miss the stunning

facade of this Av Paulista newcomer. Its sliding vertical plank entrance sits in stark contrast to the surrounding concrete and steel, under the nose of a massive mural by local street-artist Kobr4 depicting architect Oscar Niemeyer - who would no doubt approve - on the building behind. A Japanese government initiative, this contemporary art, gastronomy and technology cultural center houses stunning temporary exhibitions, a cafe and a top-end sushi restaurant by acclaimed chefJun Sakamoto.

lnstitutoMoreiraSalles

cULTURALctNTER

(lMS; Map p244; www.ims.com.br; Av Paulista 2424, ConsolaqSo; S10am-8pm TueSun, to 10pm Thu)

Eim A

2017 artistic addition to Av Paulista,

this striking,

R$15O

million, vertical museum

and cultural center is a real treat for photogra-

phy fans - three floors of galleries are home to oftrhanging exhibitions from some of the world's most renowned shutterbugs. The building itself, with its plexi-like seethrough facade, took home an award for best architecture work in Sdo Paulo from the Paulista Association of Art Critics. It also houses an art cinema, viewing terrace and the excellent new Balaio IMS (p243). SESC

Paulista

CULTURALCENTER

(Map p2M: www.sescsp.org.br; Av Paulista 119, Bela Vista; &9am-10pm Tue-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun)

f

Mur"u

Afro-Brasil

(www.museuafrobrasil.org.br;

Av Pedro

MUsEUM

Alvares

Cabral s/n, Parque lbirapuera, Gate 10: adulVstudent R$6/3, Sat free; &10am-5pm Tue-Sun) This

hugely important, absolutely fascinating Parque lbirapuera museum features a permanent 3rd-floor collection chronicling five centuries of African immigration (and a nod

to the 10 million African lives lost in the construction of Brazil) and hosts a rotating array of contemporary Afro-centric exhibitions on its bottom two floors. Museu de Arte Contempor6nea da Universidade de S5o (MAC-USP; www.mac.usp.br; Av Pedro

Paulo

int to

get of the country's most important avenue: the 17th floor terrace boasts panoramic 360o vistas straight down the belly of the beast.

o o CN

MUSEUM

Alvares

o

1' C Sun) EEg This fine museum, the best of r three belonging to Universidade de S5o o c) Paulo's Museu de Arte ContemporaneA is housed in the Oscar Niemeyer-designed = former motor vehicle department building (Detran) and possesses what is arguably the count4/s best collection of Brazilian art since 1960. It includes an extensive sculpture collection, paintings, prints, photoCabral 1301, Parque lbirapuera; &10am-7pm Tue-

graphs and objets dhrt. The new rooftop restaurant, Vista (p247), offers flabbergasting panoramic views.

Museu de Arte

Moderna

MUSEUM

(MAM: www.mam.org.br; Av Pedro Alvares Cabral s/n, Parque lbirapuera, Gate 3; adulVstudent R$7/ free, Sat free; &10am-6pm Tue-Sun) Brazil's oldest modern-art museum possesses a fine per-

EEB fnis 2018 cultural addition ro Av manent collection of Brazilian modemists

Paulista offers the best free view you're go-

!l

such as Anita Malfatti and Di Cavalcanti, as as works by Mir6, ChaSaI, Picasso and Duff. However, the public spaces are devoted exclusively to temporaxy exhibits. Check the museum's website for current offerings.

well

234

O

Pinheiros, Vila Madalena

& Around Pinheiros, west of Jardins, is a sprawling, mostly residential neighborhood of identikit high-rise apartments with bonafide restaurant, nightlife and arts scenes, but few sights. Bohemian Vila Madelena is the ciffs creative hub; home to artists, designers and other art-focused warriors. There are no big ticket sights in these parts, but Vila Madelena is a destination in itself, home to trendy bars and cafes, independent boutiques and galleries, and is a nerve center for the city's vibrant street-art scene.

*8""o

l: o

do

Batman

PUBLTcART

(Map p249; Gongalo Afonso s/n, Vila Madalena; 82rhr) One of Sio Paulo's premiere street-art locations, 'Batman's AIley' has slowly risen from secret location for band promotional shots and Brazilian films to a bonafide tourist attraction - even school kids visit nowadays! The open gallery tucked alvay in axtsy

ViIa Madalena is covered head-to.toe in cutting-edge street art by local and int€rnational artists.

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Mercado Municipal de Pinheiros MARKET (Map p249; www.mercadomunicipaldepinheiros. r com; Pedro Cristi 89, Pinheiros: O&m-6pm) A (/) smaller, cleaner and more manageable vero sion of Sdo Paulo's far larger and more chaE otic Mercado Municipal, Mercado Municipal C de Pinheiros has served Pinheiros'produce o needs since 1910, though the current buildc) ing was built in 1971 and completely trans= formed in 201,1,. Today, vendors sling fresh fruits, vegetables, meat and fish, but it's even more

U'

-

visit-worthy for

its

fantastic food stalls:

Comedoria Gonzales' South American cuisine; Chef Rodrigo Oliveira's Mocot6 Caf6; C6 Burger; and Alex Atala's cultural emporium, Instituto Ata (p254,).

O

South & East ofJardins

Extra-wide Av Brigadeiro Faria Lima (called just'Faria Lima) marks the southwestern edge of the Jardins neighborhoods. Faria Lima is also the main corridor connecting Pinheiros with the ritzy residential neighborhoods of Morumbi, Vila Olimpia and Moema. These districts are the domain of

luxury high-rise condominiums and mostly banking and technolory headquarters.

n;L Centro 56o Paulo City Walk

START PRAQA DA REPIJBLICA END PRAQA DA REPUBLICA LENGTH 3.5KM: TWO HOURS

Downtown Sao Paulo is a vibrant living museum of architectural gems and glory days gone by. Head out on a weekday (weekends and nights are a little too dicey) on this pleasant Centro stroll. Start at OPraga da Rep0blica, head down Av lpiranga and then turn left onto Av S3o Lu[s to get a look at what's still one of the tallest buildings in town - the 46-story @eaimio lt6lia (p228). continuing down Av S3o Luis, check out the rather squat, gray building at the end of the small park on the left. lt looks like a prison, but it's the @Mario de Andrade Municipal Library, housing the largest book collection in the city. Turning left onto Rua Xavier de Toledo, keeping the library on your left, follow the road downhill toward the Anhangaba0 metro station a few blocks away. Follow Toledo

untilthe OTheatrc Municipal

(p227) appears - this baroque building, with its art nouveau features, is the pride of the city. Opposite the theater, on the right, is the @Viaduto oe CM, a metal bridge built in 1892 and named after an old tea plantation that used to be in the area. Pedestrian traffic became too heavy for the old bridge and a new one was inaugurated in 1938. Crossing the bridge, look out over the @Parque Anhangaba6 on the left. At the oiher side of the bridge, enter @eraga Uo Patriarca straight ahead. Here you'll find the @lgeja de Santo Ant6nio, which retains many of its original l8th-century contours, including its rococo altar dating to 1780.. Turn right some 20 paces beyond on Rua S5o Bento, leading to @Largo oe S5o Francisco, a triangular plaza that is home to twin churches. both known as @lgrela de Sio Francisco de Assis, and the well-respected @Gollege of Law. Just beyond the controversial statue of a Frenchman kissing an indigenous woman in front of the College of Law is Senador Feii6, leading to the famous

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@Praga da 56 (p223). Soak up the joyous vibe in the square, but watch your pockets. Step inside the enormous @Catedral aa

s6 (p223).

As you exit the cathedral, head down the plaza and continue toward tne @Gaixa Economica Federal, home to the city's coffers and also a great cultural center (Caixa Cultural) that features Brazilian artists. Turning right onto Rua Floriano Peixoto, walk to the end and feast your eyes upon the pinkish-colored @Solar aa Marquesa. Follow the street around to the left to @ PAteo do Cot6gio (p227), lhe actual site where S5o Paulo was founded in 1554. Directly in front of this plaza is Boa Vista. Follow it away from Praga da 56 to the end, where you'll find @Largo de Sao Bento, home to the @Mosteiro S5o Bento (p228), a monastery and basilica built in an eclectic style with monks still putting on Gregorianchant concerts, knocking out coveted baked goods and - in grand Belgium style - offering red- and golden-ales brewed from their own recipe. Leaving the square, walk up the pedestrianized Rua Sio Bento to Av S5o Jo5o. Turn

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left at Sao Joao and another quick left at the next street, where on the right stands the art deco @Farol Santander (p228) building. Head to the top floor for a sweeping view of Sao Paulo. Backtrack to Sao Bento and then keep heading straight down Av S5o Jo5o. On the left just past SZo Bento stands @eaitlcio Martinelli (p228). You are now crossing the Vale do Anhangaba0 that you saw earlier from the Viaduto de Chd. Head up Sao Joao as far as @Urgo de Palgando. Behind the pretty @NS

do Ros6rio dos Homens Pretos is the magnificent @Monumento 6 Mie Preta (Monument to the Black Mother). This

heart-wrenching statue depicts an African slave woman suckling a white child, and the poem underneath gives voice to her lament

for her own children who must go hungry. To wrap up a long day, continue forward and you will end up at the @intercection of Av 56o JoSo and Av lpiranga, a corner that is considered the most famous in all of 56o Paulo and was immortalized in Caetano Veloso's beautiful ode to the city, 'Sampa.'Turn left and you will be back where you started at

Praeada RepIblica.

236

@ BRAZIUS MELTING POT Brazil's unparalleled racial and ethnic diversity means there is no such thing as a typical Brazilian face. That's why Brazilian passports are highly sought after on the black market - many faces could pass for being Brazilian. For a deeper understanding of Sao Paulo's immigration history, head to the Memorial do lmi-

grante

(wwwmemorialdoimagrante.sp.gov.

br; Visconde de Parnalba 1316, Mo6ca; adulU

student R$10/5; S9am-5pm Tue-Sat, from lOam Sun) in the eastern suburb of Mo6ca. Built in 1882 it was called the Hospedaria dos lmigrantes, and functioned as a holding place - not always friendly for immigrant labor before they shipped out for their first jobs in Brazil, mostly on large plantations.

-

Tours

*flavia Liz di Paolo (A[ 98119-3903; www.flavializ.com)

guide Flavia Liz is an enthusiastic, multilinSual Sao Paulo specialist who offers custom-

ized guiding services throughout the city and surroundings. Whether you want to dig into architecture, urbanism, conceptual desigrr, shopping, modern and contemporary art, antiques, gastronomy, gourmet coffee and te4 historical sugarcane and coffee farms, galleries, graffiti or faoelas (shtms, informal communities), she is your woman.

*SP

F ee Walking

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C r

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=

Americano

org.br; Av Morumbi zl0Z Morumbi; aduVstudent museum & cafe l0am-5:30pm Tue'Sun) R$10/5; Home of the muple who developed the leaff

I

upscale suburb of Morumbi, this fine retreat hosts impressive gardens and a lovely mllec-

tion of painting, sculpture and objets dart from the lSth- to the 2oth-centuries. The

Tour

wALKTNG

(Map p230; wwwspfreewalkingtour.com; Praqa da Rep0blica, Repfblica; tips only; 811:30am Mon, Wed, Fri & SaD EEEB Condenses over 4,50 years of Sampa history into a long but fascinating

'Old Downtown'walk four times a week at 1l:30am. The tour meets next to the C.I.T.

(tourist booth) at FundagSo Maria Luisa MUSEUM,GARDENS e Oscar (@11 3742-00n; www.fu ndacaooscaramericano.

cuLTURAL

Personal

PraC?.

da Repfblica and

ends 314 hours later at l.argo Sao Bento; and

there's walk€xclusive discounts to be had along the way. Reservations unnecessary just show up 20 minutes Prior. l.

fd

Festivals & Events

SP-Arte

- S5o Paulo

ART lnternational Art Festival (D11 3077-2880; wwwsp-arte.com/enlthe-tuir;

Parque lbirapuera, Pavilhio da Bienal, Vila Mariana;

1950s house-turned-museum is a small mas-

SApr) This national and international art

terpiece of Brazilian modernism, and there's also a lovely cafe that serves traditional high tea for R$68.

fair is one of the world's largest.

p

courses Polyglot (Al 37M-4397; wwwpolyglot.com.br; Carlos Benini 96, Brooklyn) One

LANGUAGE

Av Luiz

of the most

respected language schools for Portuguese. Prices start at R$170 per hour, with packaAes of four to eight hours of daily intensive instruction also available.

Receitaria Escola (Map p249; E

11

Gourmet

cooKlNG

2892-0031; www.receitaria.com;

U2/3/4 people R$415/519m9/975) Ever wonder how they get the chicken inside a corinha (chicken-stuffed cornmeal ball), or why your caipirinhas at home never taste as good as in Brazil? Book a 314-hour cooking course at this highly recommended cooking school and woo friends back home with your contemporary Brazilian kitchen feats. Fradique Coutinho 600, Pinheiros; class tor

56o Paulo Restaurant

Week

FooD&oRrNK

(www.sp-jpr.maitredigital.com.br; lunch/dinner from R$,16.90/58.90; 9Apr/May & Aug/Sep) More than 2O0 restaurants offer special

menus and promotional prices

for

two

weeks, twice a year.

Virada

Cultural

Musrc

(www.viradaculfural.prefeitura.sp.gov.br; Gf,EB

OMay)

A nonstop, free, 2,l-hour party of cul-

- especially musical - events around the city in strategic locations such as tura.l

Itaquerao, Pra4a do Campo Umpo, Paque da Juventude, Centro Esportivo Tiet0 and Chdcara do Jockey. S5o Paulo Gay Pride

Parade I Jun) Av Pau-

LGBT

(www.paradasp.org.br; Av hulista;

lista morphs into a come-all, free-for-all for Sf,o Paulo's annual gpy pride parade, often considered the biggest in the world Oot} the 2016 and 20V events drew three million people!).

237 Bienal de S5o

(Ell

Paulo

ARr

5576-7600: www.bienal.org.br; Parque lbirapuera, Pavilhio Ciccillo Matarazo, Vila Mariana; &Sep-Dec) Modeled on the Venice Biennale, the Bienal de S5o Paulo, founded in 1951, has

grown into one of the world's most impor-

tant arts events. Many of the participants are working artists who have been nominated by their home muntry.

The event is held during even-numbered years, generally from September or October to December, in a sprawling pavilion designed by modernist master Oscar Niemeyer in the leaff Parque lbirapuera (www. parqueibirapuera.org; Av Pedro Alvares Cabral, Vila Mariana; 85am-midnight). In recent years, ad-

mission has been free, though this is subject

to fundin8. Mostra lnternacional de Cinema FILM (811 4118-2291; www.mostra.org; SOct) The muntry's largest film festival, with screenings throughout the ciw. NEWYEAR

e3l

Dec)

Av Paulista

turns into a big outdoor parry to ring in the newyeax.

l-

Sleeping

Vila Madelena is the most traveller-friendly neighborhood for leisure visitors and is home to the majority of hostels (there's also a solid concentration around the residential neighborhoods of Paraiso and Vila Mariana

offthe southeastern end ofAv Paulista). The ciq/s top boutique hotels sit in the leaff upscale district of Jardins, while many top-end business hotels line Av Paulista, Av Faria Lim4 Av das Na46es Unidas and Parque Ibirapuera.

!!

Centro & Around

Akasaka (EX 3207-1500; br;

Praga

HorELsS

www.akasakahotel.com.

da Liberdade 149, Liberdade; s/d,/

trlq with lan

R$1at0/l7Q/210/260, with air-mn R$160/190/230/280; ts E ) Conveniently located across from the metro on Pra4a Liberdade,

this triumphantly no-frills budget option offers 4,0 simple but clean rooms. It's a handy choice for those especially interested in the city's Japanese and Korean subcultures. 155

Hotel

BoUIQUEHoTEL$3

(Map p230; 811 3150-1555; www.l55hotel.com. br; Martinho Prado 173, Consolacio; d/trAte

R$160/240/270: ts

@

6)

writing desks.

NovotelSPJaragua (Map p230;

This gay-friendly,

Al

BUS|NESSHoTELS$

2802-7000: www.accorhotels.

com.br; Martins Fontes 71, Centro: d from R$250;

ts@6) The Accor chain has refurbished the old Hotel JaraguS, which had long been central Sao Paulo's most chic hotel. Digs are spacious, plush and cheerfully done up in soothing cafe tones. Rooms above the 20th floor have breathtaking city

views

and there's a free shuttle every 30 minutes (7:3oam to 7:30pm) to anywhere within 2km ofthe hotel.

f!

Reveillon (Av Paulista, Bela Vista;

76-room affordable boutique hotel is located between Centro and the alterna-hipster bars of Baixo Augusta. Ultrasleek suites are steeped in minimalist blacks and grays; regular rooms aren't quite as hip but are still top-value all things considered, with tight bathrooms but hardwood floors and

Avenida Paulista, Jardins

& Around Lobo Urban

Stay

cuEsTHousEs

(Map pZdA; 811 3085-9888; wwulobourban stay.com: Haddock Lobo 893, Jardins; dm/s/d R$54l150/200; 6) This quiet, design-

forward Jardins choice easily offers the best location for money in the city, situated smack dab in the middle of Sf,o Paulo's toniest environs. Run by two Paulista cousins, there's one eight-bed mixed dorm with its own private bath; one female-only four-bed dorm with a desk; and one spacious private (especially good value for solo travelers). No breakfast. Augusta Park Hotel HoTELS8 (Map pZM: Al 3D4-M00; www.augusta park.com.br; Augasta 922, ConsolagSo; s/d R$230/280; AEB) Set amid the action of Baixo Augusta, the 66-room Augusta Park has a convenient location and offers some of Sampa's best-value (if slightly dated) rooms - especially if you managed to snag the promotional rates. Pousada Dona

Zil6h

pousADA$St

(Map pZM: @113C6,2-1tA4; www.zilah.com; Minas Gerais 1l2, Higenopolis; d/b R$365/430; @@)

?

This Av Paulista-adjacent 1932 mansion in Higien6polis has a long, steeped hisUory in S5o Paulo comforl The six rooms aren't flash but offer upgraded comforts, especially *ttere the exquisitely tiled bathrooms arc conceme{ and extensive, fountaindrenched gardens that are wateredwith flltered shower and sinkwater.

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=

238

*xot"l Emiliano (Map p244;

Ell

BourQUEHoTELise

3068-4399: wwwemiliano.com.br

OscarFreire3S4,Jardins;dfrom R$2500: ts @

6E)

Sleek, bright and minimalist, Emiliano is the civs best hotel. It's steeped in refined luxury, with local touches such as the lobby's lush suspended orchid garden, alongwith impeocable

service and a sundrenched rooftop pool, all without taking itself too seriously. It nails the combo of cool (not too in your face) and opulent (but not too stun.

f

Hotel

uniqr"

DEsrGNHorELs$r)

(E11 3055-4n0; www.hotelunique.com.br; Av Bri-

B@E)

This

befier than the lobby sutgests, with artsy bookshelves, outlet-equipped lockers and air-

conditioning; and a big communal kitchen faces a welcoming open-air indoor garden.

l-

Pinheiros, Vila Madalena

& Around HosTELs Hostel SP0l1 36R-0lil2: www.factbook.com/hostelsp0l1;

gadeiro Luis Antdnio 4700, Jardim Paulista; d from

(Ell

R$1500: EEE) Designed by Ruy Ohtake, the slice of watermelon-reminiscent Unique

Agostinho Mendicute 85, Sunrar6; dm R$69, d with/ without bathroom R$179469; 6) Just across from Vila Madelena in far more tranquil Sumar6, but still close enou8h to stumble home, this well-loved hostel is identifled via an iconic orelhdo @ig ear - slang for phone booth mver) that houses its call butUon. T\vo six-bed mixed dorms and inviting, design-forward cornmon areas - especially the glass€ncased retro lounge and front patio - are highlights.

is certainly the ciq/s most architecturally ambitious hotel,

as

well as a favorite of rock

stars and fashionistas. Rooms, with their

l'

without bathroom from R$165,2110;

well-loved newcome! which bills itself as a 'business hostel,' sits just 400m from Metr0 Vila Mariana and within a few kilometers of Parque Ibirapuera Segregated dorms are

porthole-like windows, are elegantly mini malist, and the rooftop bar (p25f) and pool offer some of the ciUy's most stupendous views.

Hotel

Fasano

BoUTQUEHoTELSSS

p244t Ell 3896-4000; www.fasano.com. 0 de casa HosTEtS r (Map o br: Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardins: d from R$1650; (Map p249; 811 3063-5216; www.odecasahostel. o ts@E) This ultrarefined 60-room hotel com; lndcio Pereira da Rocha 385, Vila Madalena; -{

{E

behind an English red-brick facade evokes a bygone era of modernist glamour, with a muted gxay travertine marble set off with >I o exquisite 1930s-era antiques in rooms and T common areas; and a reserve, formality and discreetness rare in Brazil (only four rooms

-o c)

=

per floor). The entrance frames the gorgeous lobby bar - you may not make it past!

The Zen-like rooftop pool area and inlimate jazz bar Barretto (p254) alone are worth the price to stay here.

l!

Parque lbirapuera & Around

f,we Hostel Design (dll 2615-2262: www.wehostel.com.

HosrEL$

br; M orgado de Mateus 562 Vila Mariana; dm R$60-72 d withSimply gorout bathroom R$145-205; geous, 56o Paulo's best hostel sits inside a beautiful historic 1926 white mansion on a

EEE)

quiet Vila Mariana residential corner. From the guest kitchen to the hammock-strewn, quasi-wraparound porch to the kitschy living room, everything here has been designed with expert connoisseurship of retro furniture and coveted antiques. S5o Paulo

Lodge

HosTELs

(811 5084-5967; www.vopaulolodge.com;

Sena

Madureira 42, Yila Mariana; dm R$6S75, d with/

r R$150-200, r without bathroom BE) This artsy and colortul hos-

dm R$4$60, R$120-150;

tel is one of the neighborhoodk oldest, with a sociable bar and rooftop terrace that gives way to shotgun-style lodging in four-, sixand eight-bed mixed dorm configurations and well-kept bathrooms. A newer annex houses spiffier private rooms with lofts and private bathrooms, but you won't escape the noise from the imbibing nighttime crowds.

California

Hostel

(Map p249;

E

PousADAg

2619-6007; www.hostelcalifornia. com.br; JoSo Moura 607, Pinheiros; dm R$45-55, s/d/lr lrcm R$140n70/190, without bathroom 11

from R$ll0/127l170;

BE)

This colortul Pin-

heiros guesthouse turned a two-story town house into a design-forward spot to rest your weary head. Rooms are smallish, but the whole place is packed with personality and there are pleasant patios in both the main house and the less atmospheric annex across the street.

Sampa Hostel (Map p249; 811 3031-6779; com.br; Girassol

519, Vila

HosrELs

www.hostelsampa.

Madalena; dm from R$40,

s/d/trlq R$90/140/210/280i @6) This newly remodeled vet€ran of Vila Madalena's hostel scene is one of its best, offering four-,

239 six- and eight-bed dorms (the last of these a bit cramped), a few sparse privates, kitchen facilities and a sun deck-

*Guest Urban

BouTtQUE HorELS$

Ell

(Map p249; 3081-5030: www.guesturbansp. com.br; Lisboa 493, Pinheiros; d R$259-309; B E ) This I930s mansion, opened in late 2015,

holds 14 suites reeking of industrial-chic (exposed brick and beams, unflnished steel and concrete) offset by a sunny open patio and cutting-edge art (reprints for sale in the lobby). It's one block from Prara Benedito Calixto in the heart of hip Pinheiros.

Esfiharia

Effendi

(Map p230: www.etfendi.com.br; Dom Ant6nio de Melq Luz; snack R$4.60-10; &&m-lateTue-Sat,from 9am Sun) Surted by refirgees fleeins the Arme-

nian genocide in 1973, this downright divey classic slings some of the city's b"-st esfihas - open-fared or triangulax meat pies hailing from the lrvanr for bef, zahtar or cheese with basturma (airdried cured beef) - 56o Paulo is rarely this tasty for so cheap.

h

Casa

Mathilde

South & East of Jardins

Four Seasons Hotel S5o Paulo

(EU

Four Seasons sits inside the wellness-focused Parque da Cidade in tony ChScaxa Santo Ant6nio. A glistening stone-cladding facade greets guests, who hide away from the Sam-

pa hustle inside rooms with yellow, retro inspired love seats that both have sexy curves (a theme extending to the wavy Iobby bar) and Nani Chinellato banana-fiber wall mvering.

e"ttng

Rong

case.

He

cHlNEsE$

mains for 2 people R$20-63; &11:30am-3pm & 6:30-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 11:30am-10:30pm Sat & Sun) A Liberdade institution and the ci!/s

best Chinese. First and foremost, expect surly service; second to that, theggoza(panfried Japanese dumplings) and the housemade Chinese noodle dishes are served in great-value portions gakisoba-s|yle or in soupy, piping hot caldrons (ensopad,a) to out-thedoor lines of devoted patrons. You can watch the dough masters at work

C""" do Porco

(Map p230; FAsrFooDS

33; S24hr) This classic Cenffo lanchonete (snack bar) serves working folk's meals at all hours, but its signatrtre pernil (pork loin) sandwich, smothered in the cheese of your choice (provolone!) and saut6ed onions, is one of Sampa's gastronomic musts.

Pork

sweets

(www.ronghe.com.br; Rua da Gl6ria 622, Liberdade;

*l

(Map p230; www.estadaolanches.com.br; Viaduto 9 de Julho 193, Centro; specialty sandwiches R$7-

Hot

Induce

through the show kitchen window.

Centro & Around

*e"tuaao

6)

of Portugal, laid out here in a dizzying and mouthwatering 15m-long display

EB@6@) Openins in late 2018, Brazil's first

)(

Sat

a sugar coma with the traditional

BoUIQUEHoTELSSS

2526{100; wwwfourseasons.com/brlsao paulo; Av das Naco€s Unidas 14401, CMcan Santo Antdnio; d weekdayfueekend from R$12604400;

X

swEErsg

(Map p230; wwwcasamathilde.com.br; Praga Ant6nio Prado 76, &ntro; sweets R$4.50-2; &9am7:30pm Mon-Fri,9:30am-4:30pm

l!

FASTFooDS

HoTDocs$

(Map p230; http://acasadoporco.com.br; Bento Freitas zl!1, Replblica; hot dogs R$15; S11am-10pm)

Superstar Sampa chefJefferson Rueda's kids wanted hot dogs at their parties, so what was a gourmet chefto do? Make the best one ever! The IO0% pork option (Hot PorD has no additives or preservatives and is dressed with everything made in-house: a milk bread bun, tomato and apple ketchup, fermented mustafi, wiiJ,:. tu.cwi (a manioc broth), mayo and onion and cucumber pickles.

Al

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32*-2578;

6)

Jefferson Rueda's casual temple of swine is

a wonderful descent into all things pork Delicious and decadent specialties such as zi (R$4,8 per person) offer the fuIl treatment, carved from an eight-hour whole slow-roasted hog and served in perfectly crispy/decadently succulent squares with side dishes such as tutu de feljdo (beans thickened with cassava flour). Heartstoppingly satisrying. But there's so much more! Pork belly with crispy guava, pork croquettes, pork bolognese pasta, all manner ofsmoked sausages, pork sushi with black tucupi; if. it cr:lmes from a pig, it's done up here and done up oh so right! There's craft beer, good wines and creative cocktails to wash down all that pig. Reserve ahead. Hot Pork (p239), an offshoot gourmet hot dog takeaway, has opened two

blocks away.

! c

o

BRAztLtANss

www.acasadoporco. com.br; Aratlo 124, Rep0blica; mains R$48-72; Chef Snoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun;

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241

PizzaPaulistana Swarms of ltalian immigrants settled in S5o Paulo in the late 19th century, giving the city one of the largest ltalian populations in the world outside ltaly and one of South America's best-kept culinary secrets. Locals say the pizza is so good, even the ltalians are jealous!

Blri.aPiz,zafia The experience at BrAz

(Map p249; E111 3037 -7975; www.br azpizzaria.com.br; Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros; pizza R$43-88; S6:30pm-12:30am Sun-Tue, noon-3pm & 6:30pm-midnight Wed-Thu,

680) will leave you thinking, 'Italy, schmataly.' Do as Brazilians do and order a Brahma draflbeer (chope) followed by an appetizer of warm sausage bread (ptdo de calabresa) dipped in spiced olive oil, then let the feast commence. Braz has a number of locations in both S5o Paulo and Rio de Janeiro; visit the to lam Fri & Sat;

(

"l

website for details.

Speranza One of the oldest and most traditional pizl.

zerias, Speranza (Map p2M;

Maryhetta pizza 2. BfizPzzana

www.pizzaria.com.br;

3. Chope (draft beer)

Ell

3288-3512;

Rua 13 de Maio 1004, Bixiga;

pizza R$57{00; &6:30pm-12:30am Sun-Thu, to

D) is in the Italian neighborhood of Bixiga, where the Famiglia Tarallo has been serving serious pizza since 1958. Perfect meal: the life-changing bruschetta appetizer followed by a fiercely traditional margarita pizza. No, wait: those calzones are insanely Hood, too. 1am Fri & Sat;

r-

3

lnggeraPLrzaNapoletana At Leggera Pizza Napoletana

(U11

3862-2581; www.pizzerialeggera.com.br; Diana 80, Vila Pompeia; pizza R$34-42', S7-11pm Tue-Thu, to 11:30pm Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun; 6) Bra-

I

/

zilian{talian-American pizzaiolo Atdre Guidon imports everything humanly possible from Italy - and this small, familyrun affair epitomizes the Brazilian-Italian diaspora. The 12 individual-sized, uncut pies here (plus a few calzones) are easily Sampa's best. They emerge from one of

just 500 or so Neapolitan pizzeria ovens in the world certified by the AssociaQao

r

l

Y erace Pizza

prudent.

Napoletana. Reservations

242

*Lamen

Kazu

JAPANEsEsg

(www.lamenkazu.com.br; Tomds Gonzaga 57, Liberdade; mains $29-47: &1lam-3pm & 6-10:30pm It's not as Mon-Sat, 11am-3pm & 6-9pm Sun;

sophisticated creative Brazilian grub. Also has great cocktails, including the elusive Bloody Mary and delicious desserts.

6)

famous (or cheap) as its nearby rival Aska but take the hint: the 99%o Japanese client€le

)(

Avenida Paulista, Jardins &

Around

should tell you something. The fiery Ihra Misso Lamen (spicy broth and spiced pork Jardins is your place to splurge. It offers an in addition to the usual condiments; R$r1,2), incredibly dense collection of some of Bradoused with the house-made chili sauce, is a zil's most illustrious restaurants, plus some revelation; as is everythin8 on the menu. Veg surprisingly reasonable choices to boot" a.s does Italm Bibi to the southeast. options as well. Get slurpin!

Mancini

Famiglia (Map p230;

rrALrANS$

811 3256-4320;

wwwfamiglia mancini.com.br; Avanhandava8l,Centro; mainsfor 2 people R$102-283; gll:3Oam-lam Mon-Wed, to 1:30am Thu, to 2:30am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun;

l!

o an

6) On charming and romantic Rua Avanhandava - aleafy, almost European-feeling side street in Centro - this traditional trattoria is one of the city's most atmospheric, with throngs of Chianti fiascos hanging from the ceiling and an old-school familystyle Italian ambience.

In reality portions serve three, which

is how many you'Il need to divw up the perusing of the gigantic menu of pasta, meat and seafood dishes.

Peruano

E

Rinconcito

U)

(Map p230; www.rinconcitoperuano.com.br; Aurora 451, Centro; mains R$24-58; & noon-Spm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Sat, to 9pm Sun) Success has been

o

-o

C r

o

Ii

PERUVTAN$9

good to the little Peruvian restaurant that could. Expanded, remodeled and borderline too classy for the dicey neighborhood, this is a wonderful spot for great-value Peruvian classics such as ceviche and lomo saltado (stir-fried sirloin with onions, tomatoes, and french fries). You'll need to keep your guard up arriving here (it's fine during the day, but keep in mind that this axea is rife with drug users), but Peruvian cooks, waitstaff and clientele mean it's the real deal

Ramona

BRAztLtAN, FUstoN gS

(Map p230; www.ca$ramona.com.br; Av S5o Luis

282, Rep0blica; mains R$40-69; Snoon-midnight Mon & Tue, to 2am Wed-Fri, 72:30pm-2am Sat, l2:30-6:30pm Sun; E) This Repriblica

hot spot was one of the first to give

Pau-

listanos a reason to venture into Centro at night. The legitimately retro space, fueled by a holier-than-thou indie soundtrack, excels at burgers (especially the spicy ba.conjalapeflo 'Rocks Off') and a long list of more

*Bacio (Map

di

Latte

GErAroS

pltA:

www.baciodilatte.com.br; Oscar Freire lOam-llpm Sunlil6, Jardins; gelato from R$12: Fri,

to lam Sat;

@@)

I ? A scotsman

and two

Italians were the first to do what nobody outside Buenos Aires could previously do: produce amazing Italian gelato in South America. Often voted the ci!y's best, it's one of Brazil's best as well, and this charming Oscar Fleire location started it all. Casa do Sabor

AMMA

swEETsg

(Map p2M: www.ammachocolate.com.br; Alameda Rocha Azevedo 1052, Jardins; chocolate R$1-17;

Sllam-Spm Tue-SaD U AMMAb sustainablysourced, organic and milk-free chocolate is probably Brazil's best. Sample popular flavors such as sea salt, coffee and Gula Merah (made with coconut sugar) in to-go bars (R$fD or settle in with a portion of cake or

brigadetro (chocolate bonbon) baked inhouse, accompanied by an espresso or hot chocolate.

*shin-zushi

JAPANESESS

(Ell

3889-8700: Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraiso; tasting menu R$300, sushi combos R$65-120; 911:30am-2pm & 6-10:30pm Tue-Sun) Barely a

blip from Paralso metro station is this outrageously good and authentic sushi hotspot where brothers Robinson and IGn Mizumoto execute an exquisite, daily fresh menu of motherland-worthy raw fish that will leave you rubbing your eyes to veriff you haven t traveled to Japan.

The fiercely traditional omakase (tasting menu) nets an extraordinary array of the days best atthe hands ofan itamae (a

step above sushiman in sushi hierarchy) who will wowyou with the delicate and incredibly fresh flavors; while sushi combos there's one entirely devoted to tuna! - are

still pricey but extraordinary value

com-

pared with what you'd pay at this quality level in Japan.

243 BRAztLtANgs *Tordesilhas (Map p244; A I 3107 444i www.tordesi lhas.com; -7

AlamedaTiet6zE9,Jardins; mainsR$63-87; S6pmlam Tue-Fri, noon-Spm & 7pm-1am Sat, noon-Spm Sun; E) Chef Mara Sa.lles creates some of the

very best contemporary Brazilian cuisine in the city at dependable Tordesilhas. There is a palpable lean on specialties from the Amazon such as pato no tucupl (roasted, dttck flavored with juice of the manioc plant and j ambu, a moulh-numbing indigenous herb) and grilled Amazonian fish, as well as Brazilwide regional dishes.

*Kan Suke

susHl$s (Map p2tA; U 11 3266-3819; Manoel da N6brega 76, Jardins; tasting menu R$120-300; S1l30am-1pm & 6-8:30pm Mon-Sat) Sushi superman Keisuke

Egashira speaks broken Portuguese, arriving a few years back a.fter 23 years at Tbl$,o's Sushi-Kan. This uneventfully simple, raw-fish powerhouse hidden away in a nondescript shopping plaza off Av Paulista evokes r;ro Dreams of Sushi-level authenticiw It's generally pricy but the eight-piece set lunches are a steal (R$65). Japanese menu only.

*Capim

Santo

(Map p244;

Ell

BRAztLtANsg

3089-9500; www.capimvnto.com. br: Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 47,1, Jardins; dinner mains R$56-23, lunch buffet weekday/weekends R$63/96; S noon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Fri, 12:304:30pm & 8pm-midnight Sat, 2:30-4:30pm Sun; E ) Top chef Morena L€ite turns out excellent regional Brazilian fare, with an emphasis on local and organic ingredients, served in a re

2

laxe4 beautifirlly Brazilian indooroutdoor space. The excellent weekday

buffet is the af-

&noon-3pm Mon, 7-11:30pm Tue-Fri, noon-6pm & 7-ll30pm Sat, bar until 2am Tue-Sat) Accolades abound for upstart Brazilian chef Marcelo Bastos and his affordable entry-level into contemporary Brazilian cuisine. Pick any three courses at this cute and cozy bistro-sMe restaurant to create-your-own set menu (lunch R$55, dinner R$88), including - drum ro[ please! - the efusive moqueca (seafood stew) for one person! Sist€r Nina admirably handles the excellent fresh fruit caipirinhas.

Zena

Calt6

(Map

p2M;

|TAL|AN S$

Ell

3081-2158; www.zenacaffe.com. br; Peixoto Gomide 1901, Jardins: mains R$38-R; S noon-midnight Sun-Wed, to lam Thu-Sat; 6 ) Despite his mug everywhere, including TV (BrazilS version ofllell's Kitchen), chefCarlos Ber-

tolazzi remains ahumble, immediatelylikable dude's dude. His menu, focused largely on the cuisine from his Ligurian bloodline, is homey and fiercely authentic Italian comfort food at prices that won-t infuriate you. His glocchi, a focaccia and ragt Qamb or duck) are all out- >r o standing, but you cadt go wrong.

Veggie Raw Burger N

Bar

!

vEGETARTAN$

(Map p244; www.rawburger.com.br; Augusta

Ba|aio

IMS

BRAZILIANS$

sidered a gift to Paulistanos, one no longer needs to schlep all the way out to Mocot6 (p250) to try upstart chef Rodrigo Oliveira's excellent contemporary Brazilian cuisine.

Here at Instituto Moreira Salles, highlights are many: cashew fruit-infused G&Is, lizguiQa rfcewilh okra, a vegan rnoqueca (Bahian stew) with cashew fruit, hearts of pa.lm and plantains and so on.

*Jiquitaia

BRAztLtANgg

(Map pZM; @11 3262-2366; www. j iquitaia.com.br; Ant6nio Carlos 268, Consolaeao; mains R$55-62;

f,

2052, Jardins: burgers R$28-35; Snoon-11:30pm gt WedrThu, 1-11:30pm Fri & Sat, 1-10pm Sun;

6tr) ; fl

Thcked away in a deep lane off Rua August4 this hipster veg burger delight was spawned unapologetically trendy canteen that bills il itself as the future of eating. Indeed, low-key

r o ] brought his famed cajutapu (palm-heart t pasta with grilled shrimp and, jugara fruit 5 Av Plinio Franga 335, Saco da Ribeira; mains R$63-

70; &6-11pm Thu-Sun; 6) Chef Fabio Eustaquio of Cantinho da Lagoa (p261) fame

sauce) to his classy newcomer, but similari- ra ties end there. With a marina and yacht club backdrop, his focus here is on Asian cuisines

i fl (Thai, Korean, Chinese) with recipes well- c honed by years in t ondon kitchens. q Jundu Praia Bar sEAFooD$8 E (dP 38a5-3027; www.jundupraiabar.com; Vereda > 10, Prumirim; mainsfor2 people R$139-157; &9am7pm) On the sands at pretty Prumirim, this

is one of lIbatuba's best destination beach bars. The seafood - a wealth of fried and grilled fish dishes, shrimp and seafood stews - is higher-than-average quality and there's live music to accompany meals. With lounges on the sand, it's the kind of place wellheeled beachcombers book ahead and plant themselves for the entire day. Terra

Papagalli

sEAFooDggg

(Xavantes 532 ltagud; mains for 2 people R$194198: &10am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri &

Sat) This intimate restaurant along the waterfront manages to be both the least touristy and the most creative along this string

of mostly carbon-copy options. A few dishnight are served, depending on the local catch (expect the likes of perfectly seared cambucu fish with a lovely lime and turmeric sauce), and it all goes down very romantically among the candlelit tables. es each

262

p

($ cetting Around

or:nring & Nightlife

*Doca

390

(www.doca390.com.br;

cRAFTBEER

Esteves

da Silva

390,

Centro; &Spm-midnight Mon-Thu, 4pm-lam

Fri,

6)

This clearly unsuperstitious bar's 13 taps flow with a mix of local, regional and international craft beers, finally giving Ubatubense a hip spot to guzzle proper pints (R$13 to R$32), along with a wealth of elevated pub grub (rum-flamb6ed octopus, seafood stew-stufred, pasteis, awe-

2pm-lam Sat,2-10pm Sun;

some burgers).

f

entertainment Rocks

Blues on the

uvEMustc

(U12 3832-2810:

www.bluesontherocks.com.br; Chico Santos lZAv ltagu6; STpmlate) This wild-

ly popular rocl! blues and jazz venue is consistently voted the best live-music spot on the Paulista coast.

l'

o o -{ E a

o U7 r @

a

-{

o

@ lnformation Ubatuba's tourist information (Centro de lnformag6es Turisticas; 1212 3833-9123; www. turismo.ubatuba.sp.gov.br; cnr Conceigio & Av lperoig, Centro; I8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am4pm Sat & Sun) is housed inside the colonial blue-and-white Pago da Ndbrega building along the main road in Centro. There's useful maps of surrounding beaches and good local info. Banco do Brasil (www.bb.com.br; Conceiq6o 138, Cenko)

@ Cetting There & Away Ubatuba has two intercity bus stations. For Sao Paulo (R$72.60, four hours, eight daily) and other destinations within the state, head to Litoranea bus station (E 12 3832-3622; www.litoranea.com.br: MariaVit6ria Jean381, Centro), located at the edge of the town center, about l.5km from the tourist olfice and beach. For Sio Sebasti6o, head first to Caragu6tatuba (R$18.80, lVz hours, 5:30am or 12:10pm) to catch the one 4:50pm bus per day on to S5o Sebastilo (R$9.90, one hour). Rodovi6rio Oceano (www. rodoviariooceano. com.br) goes to Paraty (R$16.25, l% hours, 9:50am and 8:40pm) and Viag5o tltil (www.util. com.br) goes to Rio de Janeiro (from R$18.20, five hours, llam and ll:59pm) from the recently spruced up and renamed Rodoviiria ilaim Ellas AMalla (Rodovidria 56o Jos6; E12 3832-5361: Thomaz Galhardo 513, Cenho) - better known as Sdo Jose bus station - on the main street a few blocks from the beach.

A car is optimal, but local Verdebus

(E

12

3833-

4002; www.verdebus.com.br; Hans Staden 474, Centro) buses (R$3.80, about hourly from 7am to 8pm) head up and down the coastal highway from their Centro terminal (between the two long-distance stations) and come at least within hiking distance of most beaches.

56o Sebastiio

fj|'oxxtz t PoP65,000 One of the only towns on the Paulista coast that has preserved a portion of its colonial charms, Sao Sebastieo sits on a dramatic channel dividing the mainland from Ilha de S5o Sebastiio (popularly known as'Ilhabela'), a lS-minute ferry trip away. Prices in town are moderat€ by local standards, but for good reason. There are no beaches at hand, and the town is also a major oil depot,

with huge tankers somewhat diminishing the natural beauty. Still, it makes a fine stopover if you're traveling to nhabela.

lH

Sleeping & Eating

*Pousada

da Ana

(412 3892{615; br;

Doce

Expediciondrios Bnsileiros

R$230/260;

PousADAgs

www.pousadaanadoce.com.

196; s/d from

EtrE) It's so hard to choose

at this colonial center gem, Seo Sebastieo's

most charming inn. One of the 16 neat, cheerful little rooms arranged around a charming, plant-filled courryard in the main structure? Or one of l0 that surround a pool

in a newly built annex next door (two of which offer French doors opening right into the waterx Book ahead.

Pousada lp6 (E 12 3893-1698;

PousADASS www.

pousadaipesamebastiao.com.

br; Tr& Bandeirantes 125; s/d/tr R$220/2fi/300;

@6) A

charming 2016 newcomer, this 15 roompousadnoffens clean and simple rooms

axe fine. On the other hand, the mmmon areuls - from the leaff open-air atrium to its loft brealdast area flanking the same iwdraped centerpiece from above - are thick with locat Brazilian chaxacter.

that

Familia

Restaurante

BRAzrLrANss

(www.fu miliarestaurante.com.br; Av Altino Arantes

58; mains for 2 people R$57-147;

S llam-midnight)

Easily the most popular of the row of waterfiont restaurants in Sao Sebastiao. Pile in with festive Brazilians from far and wide for distinctly averase gxilled fish, shrimp nu-

merous ways, moquecas (seafood stews) and plenty of meat dishes as well.

f

(EU

Toque

BRAztLtANSiS

38et-9700;

www.fucebook.com/pimentade cheirotoquetoque; Yojiro Takaoka 790, Praia Toque-

Toque Pequeno; mains

Snoon-llpmThu-Mon;

for 2 people

6)

drive west foom 56o

R$82-255;

It's worth the 25km Sebastido's cultural

center to pretty Praia l@ue-I@ue Pequeno, where this open-air seafooder excels at both hospitality and gastronomy. First of all, half-portions are offered for 5O7o ofthe price a Brazil first! - and choices like anything from the fivdeep moqr&ca (seafood stew) menu or pesto risotto with basil and shrimp are frrll ofwow.

{Q Cetting There & Away The bus station (E 12 3893-4340; Praga Vereador Venino Fernandes Moreira 10) is located iust off the main coastal highway and a short walk from the colonial center, Litorinea (812 3893-2475; www.litoranea.com.br; Praga Vereador Venino Fernandes Moreira 10, Rodovi6ria de 56o Sebasti6o) has frequent services to 56o Paulo (R$76.45, 372 hours, seven daily), as well as a direct service to GRU Airport (R$56.10,

four hours, four daily), Boigucanga (R$14, 40 minutes, T:45am, 1:45pm and 7:45pm) and other stops along the coast to Santos. Utll (E 12 3892-6233; www.util.com.br; Praga Vereador Venino Fernandes Moreira 10, Rodovi6ria de S5o Sebasti6o) offers a service to Rio (R$112, seven hours,9:30am and 10pm), with a stop in Paraty (R$41.75,3% hours).

Ilhabela

a 0xx12 ,/ PoP 28.000 SU MMER

Vila Ilhabela on the northwestern part of colonial buildings, including the slave-built lgreja NS da Ajuda (founded 1532); the Fazenda Engenho d'Agua in Itaquanduba (founded 1582); and Fazenda Santa Carmen at Feiticeira beach. Tko kilometers inland from Perequ0 beach (near the ferry terminal), Cachoeira das Tocas has various small waterf'alls with accompanying deep pools and waterslides.

7i

e"""lr"=

Over 40 beaches are found along Ilhabela's considerable coastline. Of the sheltered beaches on the north side of the island, Praia Jabaquara is recommended. It can be reached by car via a dirt road. On the eastern side of the island, where the surf is stronger, try beautiful Praia de Castelhanos (good for camping and surfing), which is backed by the steeply rising jungle. From the town of Borrifos at the southern end of the island, you can take a four-hour walk to Praia Bonete, a windy surf beach that you will share mostly with a local community of fisherfolk. Other worthwhile beaches you ciln

drive to include Praia da llha das Cabras and Praia do Curral, I.8km and 8km south

120,000 tN

plant and animal life, including toucans and capuchin monkeys. A haunt of pirates in the l6th and lTth centuries, its waters are scattered with shipwrecks, many of which make for excellent diving. The island also offers jungle hiking, windsurfing and

o >r o !

o an

m

of Barra Velha, respectively.

F

f l"tirtti""

TD

The most popular activities on flhabela involve boating/trekking to far-flung beaches and waterfalls. However there is also diving (two-tank outing R$260 to R$4,20; try Nar-

whal (E12

rN WTNIER,

Rising steeply from the narrow strait that divides it from the continent, the 350-sq-km Ilhabela (Beautiful Island) earns its name from its volcanic peaks, beautiful beaches, dense tropical jungle and some 360 waterfalls. Almost 85% of the island has been turned into Parque Estadual de Ilhabela, a state park and Unesco-protected biosphere, which shelters a remarkable profusion of

beachJazing.

263

the island, has quite a few well-preserved

Pimenta de Cheiro

Toque

O sigtrts

98886-7268; www.narwhal.com.brl ilhabela; Av Princesa lsabel 171, Pereque; 89am6pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)), wakeboarding

(per hour R$100) and treks to the island's prominent peak, the Ioa8m-high Pico do Baepi - a l4,km return trek that can be done

without a guide. Sea kayaking and stand-up paddle (SIIP) boarding can also be arranged.

Maremar Aventura Turismo ouTDooRs 389C3679; www.maremar.tur.br; Praga

(El2

Elvira Storace 12, Perequ0; S8:30am-6pm May-

Near the ferry, this recommended agency organizes all kinds of outdoor activities, including schooner trips around the island (from R$80 per person); tull-day trips to the idyllic fishing village and beach of Bonete (R$170; which includes the private but spectacular Praia de Indaiariba); Nov, to 8pm Dec-Apr)

-

m

r

264

sAo plur-o SEASHoRE EscAPEs There's a lot more beach on 56o Paulo's coast than we could possible cover. ln addition to the beach towns we feature, consider escaping the city and digging your toes into these alternative sands, several of which won't be quite so crowded.

Santos Though it never receives a star for cleanliness, Santos is the closest beach to the city of Sao Paulo, just over an hour away on a good traffic day. Due to oil money, it's a fun town in its own right, with lots of great bars and restaurants. Locals consider Boqueirao, between canals 3 and 4, to be the city's best beach. Santos' beachfront garden. clocking in at 5335m, is in the record books for the largest in the world. Expresso Luxo (www.expressoluxo.com.br) buses to Santos leave frequently from Terminal Rodoviario do Jabaquara in S5o Paulo (R$26.65, 17a hours). Guaruj6 With its fine beaches along the stretch of coast closest to Sio Paulo, once-glamorous Guaruj5 has suffered f rom overdevelopment. Still, if you can't get f ur ther afield, it retains some charm as a quick getaway - even if concrete towers line the beaches, which get packed with weekend day-trippers. Surfers should note that there are good waves along Praia do Tombo and Praia do Eden (reached by a downhill trail from the road to Pernambuco or lporanga beaches) that are a good bet for beating the crowds. Ultra (www.viacaoultra.com.br) buses to Guarui6 (R$35.10, lY+ hours) leave throughout the day from Terminal Rodovi5rio do J abaquara in SZo Paulo.

li o 3n

E

F I

E

Boigucanga & Around The laid-back surfer town of BoiEucanga makes a good base to explore the stretch of coast that runs almost due west from Sao Sebastiao. The variety of beaches, many backed by the steeply rising Serra do Mar, is remarkable, and there's good surf at nearby Camburi and Maresras, which have also developed into maior party towns. Juquel is popular with families. Boiqucanga ts reached by bus f rom Sio Paulo Tiet6 (R$55.50. four hours, five daily), Guaruj5 (R$34.30, two hours, T:45am,1:45pm and 7:45pm) and Sao Sebastiao (R$140,40 minutes, Tam, 1:30pm and 7:45pm) with LitorAnea (www.litoranea.com.br).

llhadoCardoso AswildasitgetsinS2oPaulostate,thisecologicalreservenear the state's southern border with Paran6 offers gorgeous natural pools, waterfalls and untouched beaches, and is home to only 400 residents and no cars. Dark sands and brownish-gray sea don't sway the nouveau hippies, who love these beaches due to their isolation. One Valle Sul (www.vallesulservicos.com.br) bus per day leaves S3o Paulo's Barra Funda bus station for Canan6ia (R$86.33, five hours,2:30pm), from where a number of private operators offer a boat service to the island along the waterfront. Prces vary according to group size, but expect to pay around R$20 to R$30 per person (four-person minimum). You can also take a Dersa (www.dersa.sp.gov.br) ferry at least three times a week (R$55.30, lYz to two hours). You can also reach Cananeia from lguape (R$2790, 17q hours) via Pariquera-AEu. and 4,WD/boat tours to Praia de Castelhanos (R$110 to R$160 per person).

It

also runs a kiosk

(El2 389Gl4E;

*Hostel

da

Vila

(812 3896-2096:

HosTELS

www.hosteldavilailhabela.com.

www.

br; 56o Benedito 202; dm without breakfast R$40-

maremar.tur.br; Av Princesa lslabel 90, Perequ6; 99am-5pm May-Nw to 10pm Dec-Apr) near the Perequ0 pier.

a dramatic driveway from Vil4 this relative newcomer sits tucked away in jungly surrounds. Dorms come in four- to l2-bed configurations (the latter almost Japanese pod-like); or opt for sleeping in a tent, a VW Kombi or even a boat. The banana-yellow colonial house is splashed with artistic doses of color from Paulistana arlists and the pool is paradise.

lE

Sleeping

Making a reservation is a good idea on weekends mandatory on srmrmer weekends. Prices are hr8h, so some travelers choose to stay in Sdo SebasdAo, where rates are more

-

reasonable.

65,d/trfrom R$ll0/250; ts E B ) Up

265 Green

(A12

Hostel 99149-6412;

HosTELs

uber-trendy getaway for S5o Paulo fashioni-

www.greenhostelilhabela.

isrit subtle: the Mediterranean-on-overdrive aesthetic would be jarring if the crowd here didn't subscribe to the more-is-more line of trendsetting decorating.

com; Luiz

Ameixeiro 181, Perequ0; dm/d/tr R$60/160/240: B 6 ) Friendly, English-speaking owner Gabriel runs one of Ilhabela's coziest hostels. Renovated dorms with nice

bathrooms and ample hammock-strung terraces (including the rooftop, which also features an outdoor shower) are pluses. The in-house agency can get you out and about while Mel, Menina and Crispim, the three cats, will keep you company on a rainy day.

*N" Mut, suit".

(811

PousADAS$

99985-2042;

www.namatasuites.com.br; Benedicto Mariano Leite 690, Barra Velha: d R$296;

E @ 6 tr ) Cradled in a small thatch of lush neighborhood rainforest, here you'll find an absolutely lovely four-bungalow trove of hospitality. Originally converted from private jungle into a discerning getaway by the English-Brazilian owners, it's now leased to an equally hospitable, creatively-engulfed Argentine-Brazilian duo (he's an actor, she's a photographer) who are carrying on the

stas

)(

e"ting

Cura

The island's best por-kilo restaurant, set in a large and homey space across from the sands of Perequ€. Cheiro

(812

Verde

Pousada Canto Brava PousADAgs 3896-5111 www.pouvdacantobravo.com. br; Praia do Bonete; d R$220-560; @6) P Unplugged and mostly candlelit, this sustainably slanted l2-room pousada hidden away on Bonete beach is llhabela's most romantic escape. It's a haul to arrive on foot - a l2km hiking trail from Sepituba - but you'll share

sand with nobody beyond local fisherfolk (sweating for your dinner, which will be spruced up by their organic gardens!) and undaunted surfers. Pousada

(Al2

Mariola

3896-4141;

PousADAsS$

www.pousadamariola.com.

br; Chico Reis 304, Saco da Capela: s/d from R$445l460; m6@) An engineer owns this fabulous choice implanted into giant $anite stones perched high on a view-riffic hillside and reached via a charming street with upright palms shooting straight from the cobblestones. The 2O-room boutique inn offers spacious rooms with Asian aesthetics and patios that take full advantage of the expansive vistas of the sailboat-strewn

BRAZTLTANS$

3896-3245;

www.facebook.com/cheiro. verdeilhabela; Rua da Padroeira 109, Vila: meals R$31.50: Slt30am-4:30pm Mon, Wed & Thu, to 10:30pm Fri-Sun; 6m) The best place in Vila for a generous prato feito (plate of the day) with Sxilled meat or fish, plus rice, beans and salad. It's a simple but clean and airy place that attracts tourists and locals alike. t, Earh day's menu awaits on an electronic >T

o

monitor by the door.

consummate traveler vibe.

(812

BUFFETS

(wwwrestaurantedocura.com; Av Princesa lsabel 337 Perequ6; per kg R$60; $ 11:30am-4pm; 6 00 )

!

JuliSo

sEAFooDss *Prainha do (Df2 3894-1867; www.prainhadoiuliao.com.br;

Av Riachuelo 5370, Praia do Juliao; mains R$4994; &10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 6:30pm Fri-Sun;

tr) Hidden from the main road along the tn island's southside is this upscale beach = shack, firmly planted into the sands of one of Ilhabela's best and most easily-accessed TI, m

-

beaches, Juli6o. Creative seafood

with

ac-

tual vegetables are served on a pristine stretch of beach dug into only by those in

the know, who imbibe in the all-day bar scene as well.

Capitano

rrALtAN ss 12 99770-9581; www.pastadelcapitano.com.br; Pedro Paula de Moraes 703, Saco de Capela; mains

(E

R$48-82; &7pm-lam;

6)

Chef Fabio Piscioto

hails from Sflo Paulo's most traditional Italian neighborhood and was destined to re-

turn to his pasta-making roots after 30 years as a graphic designer, part of which was in Milan. The simple, clean pasta dishes here are very satisryin8 (the squid-ink tagliatelle with shrimp grew better and better as it steamed on our plate).

sea below.

Beach

BOUIIQUEHOIELS$$ DPNY (8123894-3000; www.dpnybeach.com.br: AvJos6

Pacheco do Nascimento 7668, Cunal; d weekday/

weekend from R$1200/1500;

B@6tr)

Set

right on the sands of Praia do Curral, this

o o

BRAZTLIAN$$s *RestaurantellhaSul (A12 3894-9426; www.restauranteilhasul.

com.br; Av Riachuelo 282 Portinho; mains for 2 people R$98-298; S1-11pm daily Jan, 1-11pm Fri-Sun Feb-Dec;

tr)

On the island's south

end, this award-winning seafooder is most

r

266

r@ PARQUE ESTADUAL DO ALTO DO RtBEtRA Nestled in the Vale do Ribeira in the hills near the Sao Paulo-Paran6 border. the town of lporanga was founded in 1576 after gold was discovered here. Today, the surrounding region remains one of the least-disturbed stretches of the Brazilian Atlantic Forest and is of international importance for its biodiversity. lt also makes a good base for visiting the Parque Estadual do Alto do Ribeira (PETAR), Brazil's premier cave destination. The park's N0cleos de VisitaqZo (Visitor Centers) are well set up with information on cave trips, guides and campgrounds. There are four Nicleos: Nucleo Santana (www. petaronline.com.br: per person R$12, plus per vehicle R$6). 18km northwest of town, is the park's main entry point and has good facilities for visitors and campers, including an exhabition hall and five caves and a 3.5km-long trek to a beautiful waterfall; N0cleo Ouro Grosso (13km northwest of town) has basic accommodations for groups and offers cooking facilities, two caves and a walking trail: N0cleo Casa de Pedra (9km by road plus 3km by walking trail, northwest from town) is the base for visiting the Casa de Pedra. famous for its 215m-high entrance (a Guinness world record) and pristine Atlantic forest; and Nrjcleo Caboclos (www.petaronline.com.br; entrance/camping R$12118), the park's most isolated and pristine sector, which is 86km by road from town and has good camping facilities, basic visitors' lodgings and several caves. For information as well as camping and caving reservations, contact PETAR (PETAR; IZ15 3552-1875; www.petaronline.com.br; SP165, Km156). Parque Aventuras (ll15 997458656, 15 3556-1485: www.parqueaventuras.com.br: SP165, Km13; &7am-llpm) organizes ex-

an

>I

peditions to the caves, as well as hiking, bird-watching and inner-tubing. From S2o Paulo's Barra Funda bus station, Transpen (www.transpen.com.br) ofiers service to Apiaf (R$97 five hours, 7:30am, 12:30pm and 7:30pm), where you can catch a Princesa dos Campos (www.princesadoscampos.com.bD 3pm bus to lporanga (R$6.75, 17a hours).

o !

o an

i E

-= @ r -

famous for its top-end shrimp dishes, but you can't go wrong with anlthing you encounter on its pleasant, bamboo-strewn patio.

*Marukuthai

(812

THAts$s

3896-5874; www.marakuthai.com.br;

Av

Forga Expediciondria Brasileira 495, lndai6; mains

R$49-119; &8pm-12:30am Wed-Fri, llam-Spm

6)

DPNY Beach

Club./Bistr6

LoUNGE

(www.dpnybeach.com.br: DPNY beach, Av Jos6 Pacheco do Nascimento 7668, Cunal; Sbeach club lOam-7pm, bisho lOpm-midnight; 6) With

bass-heavy lounge music at tolerable volumes, hip-tropical decor and table service on the sand, the island's fanciest beach

club/bar attracts rich Paulistas eager to show off this season's designer gear. Specialty cocktails are R$3O to R$56. The beach club runs a day-use fee of R$160 for

& 8pm-12:30am Sat, 11am-5pm Sun: Dine on the sands overlooking romantic, yachtfilled seas at llhabela's best gourmet res- nonguests. taurant, the domain of darling local chef Renata Vanzetto and her tropical take on entertainment Brazilianized Thai. Her best afts pilfer from Teatro de THEATER both cuisines, such as a seared tuna with a goat cheese and apricot sauce over cashew (@12 3512-7101: www.vermelhos.org.br; Goverjasmine rice; or sautded shrimp with Srilled nador M6rio Covas J0nior 11474, Ponta da Sela) pumpkin, catupirA cheese and crunchy This extra.ordinary ll00-seat theater in the jungle was inaugurated in 2016 a"s part of mandioquinha (starchy taproot) sticks.

f

f

Vermelhos

Ilhabela's new Centro Cultural Baia dos

!

Otnrlng & Nightlife

Ponto das

Letras

CAFE

(Dr Carvalho 146, Vila; coffee R$5-12; 810am-8pm Mon, Wed, Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sun, to llpm Sat;

6)

Extremely pleasant cafe and bookshop in the historic district; easily the island's best.

Vermelhos. It hosts the annual Festival de Vermelhos in September: a two-day music, performing arts and visual arts event. The complex is also home to a smaller amphi theater in jungly surrounds.

267

O

snopping

*r"l,i (www.fucebook.com,/teiuarte;

ARTs&cRAFTs

Av

ForEa Expedi-

ciondria Brasileira 32; &10am-8pm)

A

standout option on an island that disappoints from a shopping perspective, local artist Fted lbiu not only presents his own tropical-themed paintings that range in theme ftom Frida Kalho to jungle macaws, but also a vibrant and colorful mllection of ceramics, and arts and cra.fts from Brazil, Thrkey, Mexico, Indiq Indonesia and beyond. Well worth a browse.

@ Cetting There & Away The 15-minute ferry (Dersa; E 0800-726-6300; www.dersa.sp.gov.br; Av Princesa lsabel s/n) trip between SZo SebastiZo and llhabela runs around the clock every 30 minutes from 5:30am to l0:30pm, and more or less hourly after that. Cars/motorbikes cost R$18.50,2$9.20 weekdays and R$2770lR$13.80 on weekends; pedestrians ride free. Returning to the mainland, you pay an environmental tax only (R$3.50 for motorbikes, R$7.50 for cars).

the town makes a tranquil base from which to explore the region.

O

sights

With impressive buildings and few foreign tourists, Iguape is good for those who appreciate their colonial architecture in various shades of preservation and decay. These

buildings are clustered around the whitewashed main plaz4 Largo da Basilica, and the lSth-century basilica (open 8am to 8pm). About 1.5km along the road to Baxra do Ribeira is a turnoff to the Mirante do Morro do Espia, a lookout with a good view of the port and region.

Iguape looks across

a narrow

strait

to llha Comprida, a long, skinny

island (86km by 3km) that shelters Iguape from the open ocean. The island is covered with a combination of mangrove and Atlantic rainforest, and has an uninterrupted beach

that stretches the entire Atlantic-facing length of the island. A toll bridge connects Iguape with the island.

a

>r

o

($ cetting Around

lQ Sleeping & Eating

! C

It's best to have your own vehicle for exploring llhabela, but Expresso F6nix (www.ilhabela. fenixfacil.com.br) has local buses (R$4, every 30 minutes, 5am to 1:30am) that run the length of the island, including a stop at the ferry. Reduced fares of R$2.50 are available if you take the tim e to geta Bilhete 1nico rechargeable card. Taxi llhabela (E 12 3895-8587) is a reliable taxi service and is usually waiting at the ferry. Good roads run along the western coast of the island; however, the south and east coasts are reachable only by boat or on foot except for a rough road accessible by 4WD that extends to Praia de Castelhanos on the west coast.

Iguape is small and sleepy. There are but a few hotels and pousadas, ofwhich Pousada

an

Iguape &Around Eoxxrg z PoP29,ooo Founded by the Portuguese in 1538 to defend Brazil from the Spanish, Iguape is one of Brazil's oldest colonial settlement towns and one of the few along Sdo Paulo's coast to retain its colonial contours. An ongoing federal initiative is helping to restore the old city center, which has long been neglected. While beaches are a bit of a hoof,

Solar Colonial (EB

3&11-f591; solarcolonial@ terra.com.br; PraEa da Basflica 30; s/d R$110/160

with air-con R$120/180;

(813

tstr)

and Silvi Hotel

3841-1421; www.silvihotel.com.br:

Trigo 515;

Sandoval

o i E 6)

C

s/d/tr trom R$95/280/320; AED6) !

m

are standouts. There are a number of inexpensive pizze-

F

rias and other eateries on Largo da Basilica.

T

o

@ Cetting There & Away

z.

From lguape's bus station (813 3841-1209; Bento Pereira da Rocha 102), Valle Sul (www. vallesulservicos.com.br) offers four daily buses to 56o Paulo (R$66, 3% hours, 5:30am, 1lam, 3:30pm and 8:15pm). For Canan6ia (R$21.80, 1% hours), switch in Pariquera-Agu. Local buses cross the bridge to llha Comprida. lf you have a 4WD, it is possible to drive along the long, flat beach on llha Comprida and take

the Dersa (www.dersa.sp.gov.br) ferry across to Canan6ia (per vehicle weekday/weekend R$l1.90/17.90, passengers Iree), which leaves every 30 minutes during peak hours; or hourly otherwise from 6am to 11:30pm.

o

*"-/

f

Parandt lncludes

t

Why Go?

Curitiba .............. ........ 269 Morretes .................... 274 Paranaguit.................. 275 llha do Me1.......... ........ 277 lguagu Falls & Ar0und............ ........ 282 Foz do lguagu.....

........282

Parque Nacional do lguaEu (Brazil)...... 289 Parque Nacional lguaz0 (Argentina) .....291

Best Places

to Eat

Since its 1853 secession from Sdo Paulo state, Paran6 has been endlessly compared with its larger neighbor to the north. Indeed, the two share a slew of superlatives, rating among Brazil's highest stardards ofliving and best€ducated populations.

With its efhcient public transportation, innovative architecture and outstanding urban parks, the capital, Curitib4 exemplifies the state's successes. Though no tourism magnet, the city's air of European culture and excellent restaurants make for a nice dose ofBrazil at its most developed. Sunbathers and surfers sigh for Ilha do Mel and Parque Nacional do Superagiii, where large swaths of unspoiled rainforest and pristine coastline make for some of the least developed and most idyllic beaches in southem Brazil. But it's Igua4u Falls that has always earned the wonder and admiration of travelers, from indigenous tribes to Jesuit missionaries to modern-day tourists. The a\Me it inspires cannot be overstated.

+ Manu (p272)

t . r

Barolo (p272)

MareSol(p280) Fim da Trilha (p281)

+ Casa do Barreado (p276)

Best Places to Stay .| Belmond Hoteldas Cataratas (p291)

.

When to Go Foz

do lguagu Rahfall inches/mm

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o*J JFMAMIJASOND

Tetris Container Hostel

(p283)

May & Sep Off-

Dec-Feb Peak

I Motter Home (p271) . Hostel Nature (p284) . Astral da llha (p280)

peak prices and

season brings the sunshine at lguaEu Falls and llha do Mel.

crowds paired with tolerable weather

at lguaEu Falls.

Aug Rekeating cold and mugginess in Curitiba makes for comfortable days.

269

History Like much of southern Brazil, Paranh was neglected by the Portuguese colonists; even abrief gold rush in the Vth centurywithered when bigger finds were discovered in Minas

Aeroporto I nternacional Af onso Pen a (p27 3), respectively. Foz do lguagu also has a small international airport (p288) and direct bus services to Argentina and Paraguay as well as 56o Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and most large southern Brazilian cities.

Gerais. When Paran6 seceded from Sdo Pau10 in 1853, the economy was based on cattle and, eraa matd (tea), and the govemment en-

couraged Italian immigration to spur development. Waves of Germans, Ukrainians and Poles followed. Following immigration and railroad mnstruction, Curitiba developed into one of the countlCs richest cities.

O Cetting

There & Around

Curitiba is the state's transportation hub, with bus and air services to every major city in Brazil from Rodoferrovi6ria de Curitiba (pZl4) and

GURITIBA Doxxqt t PoP1.75 MrLLroN While not necessarily sexy, Curitiba has long garnered praise for being one of the world's best models of urban planning, mainly due to the bold initiatives of its three-term mayor, Jaime Lerner, whose daring moves in the early 1970s transformed a six-block length of downtown into a pedestrian zone (done in secret under the cover of darkness), created

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Parani Highlights Q

ParqueNacionaldo

lguagu (p289) Experiencing Mother Nature's heartstopping, thunderous roar at Garganta do Diablo, lguaqu Falls' most tumultuously glorious moment.

@

SerraVerde Express

(p275) Riding the rails on this cinematic locomotive trip to Morretes, one of Brazil's last great train rides.

@

tltra doMel(p277)

Lazing about the wild beaches and sandy trails in ParanS's car-f ree paradise.

@ ParqueNacional do Superag0i (p281) Witnessing the barrage of coupled-up red-tailed parrots on their afternoon return to llha dos Pinheiros.

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m

ffi

so mites

OAvar6

vlta vettra (p2zz)

Marveling at this ancient 'stone city' of massive, mysterious red-toned

sandstone formations outside Curitiba.

@

Museuoscar

Niemeyer (p271) Appreciating art and architecture at this museum designed by and dedicated

to Brazil's most famous modern architect.

O

ttatpu Binacional

(p282) Admiring the engineering behind the world's second-largest hydroelectric power station.

270

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I$Iragu Falls Nearly nothing wows like the breathtaking roar of the Rio lguagu splicing the edge

of Brazil and Argentina, creating the spectacular lguagu Falls. Encompassing some 275 individual falls occupying an area more than 3km wide and 8Om high, it's wider than Victoria Falls, higher than Niagara and more beautiful than both.

BrazilianSide The main event of Parque Nacional do Iguaqu in Brazil is the Trilha das Cataratas, or'Waterfall Trail.' This 1200m trail follows the shore of the Iguagu river, providing innumerable photo ops and a grand overview of the falls along the way. It terminates at the bottom of Garganta do Diabo, or'Devil's Throat,' the most spectacular part of the falls. A walkway allows you to go out to the

middle of the river so the force of rushing water seemingly surrounds you. Expect to be dazzled - and doused.

ArgentineSide Argentina's Parque Nacional Iguazri offers the single-most heart-stopping moment at Iguagu Falls: as a 2km elevated plank walkway culminates at the top of Garganta del Diablo, Mother Nature's absolute ferocity very suddenly and shockingly leaps from the stuff of legend to very real indeed. The sound and the fury is nothing short of electrifying.

BoatTfips While admiring the falls from above, you will surely spot fearless adventurers experiencing the falls from below. You can get closer to Garganta do Diabo on boat tours on the Argentine side, but

287

7

l-

\

r.

lguaqu Falls (p289),

Brazilian side

2. Boattrip under the Falls

3. Toucan, Parque das

G"+{

Aves

(p282)

plorer (p291).

on to your day is a visit to the s-hectare Parque das Aves, home to 800-plus species of birds, living in 8m-high aviaries that are constructed right in the forest, some of which you can walk through.

OutdoorAdventures

AerialViews

Parque Nacional do Iguagu covers 550 sq km of rainforest, most of which is inaccessible to anybody but the wildlife.

While the Brazilian side gives the Srand overview of the falls and Argentina the up-close-and-personal look, no view is quite as memorable as fitting the entire motherlode into one panoramic camera frame. Helisul (p283), next to the entrance to Parque Nacional do Iguagu, offers l0-minute helicopter tours of the falls for up to four or seven people at a time.

the Brazilian version is more elaborate. Plus Brazilian boats have a backup motor and are Navy-inspected. See Macuco Safari (p290) and Iguazf Jungle Ex-

Hiking is more rewarding in the morning, when the weather is cooler and birds and animals are more active. Look for butterflies, parrots, parakeets, woodpeckers, hummingbirds, toucans, lizards and spiders, among more elusive creatures such as monkeys, deer, sloths and anteaters. A worthwhile activitv to tack

288

*v6 e".tit"

przzAss

fZeppelin

Old

Bar

LrvEMUSrc

(Map p285: www.facebook.com/vobertila; Bartolomeu de GusmSo 1116: piuaR$27-82, pasta for 2 people R$58-86; *6:30-11:30pm Tue-Sun) This

(Map p285; www.facebook.com/ZeppelinFoz; Raul llattos 222; $7pm-midnight Tue, 9pm-2am WedSat; Outstanding bar serving up excel-

informal, family-run cantina churns out wood-fired pizza - even in personal sizes and reasonably authentic pasta in heaping portions. This is the kind of down-home

lent cocktails and live music that spans the

Italian spot Brazil does so very well. Don't expect Bologna or Napoli, but expect it to be packed. Cheff Lopes

BRAZ|LIANS$S

(www.facebook.com/restaurantechefllopes;

Av das

Cataratas 3570, Shopping Catuai Palladium; per kg week/weekend R$59.90/76.90; t3llam-llpm;

trl) Cheff - two f's! - Lopes churns out the town's best por-kzllo lunch buffet (weekday/ weekend R$46.90/56.90) and, for dinner, a top-end menu loaded with Argentine-cut steak options like bife do chorizo and nonfarmed local fish like congrio and surubi. It's somewhat inconveniently located in Fozb shiny new Shopping Catuai Palladium in Vila Yolanda.

!

o.inrlng & Nighttife

Nightlife is hopping along Av Jorge Schimmelpfeng, where you'll find breezy beer

! i gardens, lively outdoor patio bars and holf. to-trot nightclubs that stay open late. Good a outdoor drinking dens include Rafain ft Ctropp (Map p285; www.facebook.com/rafain o chopp; AvJorgeSchimmelpfeng450; *4pm-2am o Mon-Thu, from 2pm Fri-Sun: ld) and CapitSo o Bar (Map p285; www.capitao.bar; Av Jorge Schim! melpfeng288: 911:30am-2am: a).

lH

-I{ I>

Santinho

PousADAgg

(8,18 32694168;

www.pousadasolardosantinho. com.br; Estrada Vereador Onildo Lemos 2197: s/d

-6

R$280l320;

@@q Q This 16-room

pousa-

da is tucked away in leaff surrounds 10Om rooms are m spacious, with kitchenett€s, balconies and (, tasteful art. Buddha statues dot the prop --{ erty, which treats its owlr waste water and

= - from the beach. Bi- and trilevel

c)

o

i,--{

runs solar-heated showers, Pousada do

Atob6

(O48 3269-2560;

lH

f

Sleeping & Eating

Barra Beach

PousADAgi

www.pousadadoatoba.com.br:

ServidZo lpO do Castilol46; d R$320-400;

B 6 E)

Superb value awaits at this gem of a guesthouse with airy, bright rooms looking onto well-kept gardens. It's worth splashing out an extra R$80 for bigger rooms with small lounges and kitchenettes. Aline has lived in Canada and speals English; the family takes exceptionally good care of guests (but was looking to sell when we came through). Bus 264 'Ingleses' from TICAN stops just 3Om away.

Club

HosrElgt 3232-3336; www.barmbeaclrclub.com; ServidSo da Prainha dm R$80-90, d with,4rvithout bathroom R$2fi/220: &dosed May-Aug

(84{l

Steeping

Solar do

is protected as part of the Parque Florestal do Rio Vermelho, so the only construction is around the town of Barra da lagoa-

2;

Etr)

This American-run hostel earns top honors

destrian bridge. Three-, four- and lo-bed dorm facilities are spread across several buildings, aI with spectacular seaview terraces. It's popular with surfers (wetsuits, short and longboards, and bodyboards all available for free) who are content to kick back here with Asian and Italian meals, veranda massages and post-wave beers at the bar. across the

Pousada

Oceanomare

(848 4052-908:

CHALETS$

www.pousadaoceanomare. com.br; Rodovia JoSo Gualbedo Soares 5158; s/d

R$300/350, lofts R$400-500; 86@) A great family option north of Praia do Mogam-

bique. The island's best pool and sun deck, plus numerous distractions for the kiddos, means parents can enjoy the contemporary hardwood chalets that climb up the forested hillside worry-free.

Duncan

lsadora (@48 3232-7210:

br;

PousADAsss

www.bistroisadoraduncan.com.

Manoel de Menezes 2658;

d R$880;

6)

A

trickling fountain beckons guests up the

East Coast Ilha de Santa Catarina's East Coast is home traveler-friendly enclaves like Lagoa da ConceiqSo, the epicenter of dining and nightlife outside Centro, and the pictur-

to

esque fishing village of Barra da Lagoa- Both

hug the island's lagoon, a 19 sq km pool of blue bisected by a narrow 2kmJong strip of land along Av das Rendeiras.

Barra da Lagoa & Around The fishing village of Barra da Lagoa sits about 8km north of Lagoa da Conceig6o along the eastern side ofthe lake. It's a backpacker-friendly enclave made a.ll the more picturesque by the Canal da Barr4 with colorful fishing boats and pretty rock forma-

tions dotting the snaking route to the sea Praia Barra da l^agoa merges here with Santa Catarina's longest beach, the 8.5km Praia do Mogambique, to form a stunning, 14km strand, the latter hidden from the road by a thriving pine forest. Praia do Mogambique

stone staircase to this gay-friendly, two-room guesthouse and bistro, which sits right on the lagoon before Barra da L,agoa- Stunningly spacious rooms feature antique accents and sea-view whirlpool bathtubs that are bigger than some rooms altogether! Tbrraces and in-room breakfast service complement the beautiful views.

Ponta das Caranhas sEAFooDSSS (A I 3n2-3076; www.pontadascaranhas.com. br; Manoel de Menezes 237; mains for 2 people R$7F2,15; 6) This classy, whit€-tablecloth seafooder is popular with locals for top-end preparations that often lean on the heavier side due to the generous use of b6chamel sauce and catupiry and Parmesan cheeses. Shrimp-stuffed pumpkjn and breaded fish options are popular. There's a pretty outdoor patio for summer waterfront dining.

$

tnformation

You'll need to go back to Lagoa da ConceigSo for a

foreign{riendly ATM.

301

($ Cetting There & Away Bus 360 (R$4.20) from TILAG (p298) heads to Barra da Lagoa. ln summer, traffic can be maddening - it's faster, easier and prettier to take a Cooperbarco (p302) boat from Lagoa da Conceigao. Boats ply the scenic waters hourly between 7am and 10pm in summer only (R$22 return, Chrrstmas to Easter). For Praia do Mogambique, take bus 267'Rio Vermelho Direto'from TILAG and ask to be let off at the trail to the beach.

Praia Mole & Praia da Joaquina Praia Mole is famous for its worlddass waves and internationally heralded parry scene, especially among the LGBT+ community. The beach is absolutely beautiful; it does get crowded, but that's part of the appeal. Ifyou want less people, Praia da Galheta, the next beach north, is gorgeous as well (and clothing optional). About 3km south of Praia Mole, the huge white dunes of Toaca' are visible for miles. These massive sandy mounds at Praia da Joaquina have inspired a new sport: sand

surfing. But ideal wave mnditions nearly year-round ensure surfing remains the beach's main draw. Several competitions are

held here annually.

lH

Sleeping & Eating

Mole

Bangal6s da (A 48 3232'0723;

CHALETSS

www.facebook.com/bagalosda mole: Rodovia Jornalista Manoel de Menezes 1007; Directly across bungalows R$280-360;

BE)

from the beach, this place has 22 spacious suites and bilevel bungalows, all with cool tile floors and high ceilings. Pedra

Careca

SEAFooDS$

(A 48 3232'fi75;

www.fucebook.com/restaurante pedracareca; Praia da Joaquina 2500; mains for 2

people R$88-150; S9:30am-7pm;

6) A local

favorite on the sands at Praia da Joaquin4 where fresh gilled anrhoaa Oluefish) with capers and anything with shrimp goes down atreat. It'sjust st€ps from the crashingwaves; an Eisenbahn beer fridge means you don't have to chase it all down with tasteless suds.

O Cetting There & Away Praia Mole sits about 4.2km east of Lagoa da ConceigSo in a secluded location just a few hundred meters from the main road, though largely out of sight. From TILAG (p298), bus 363 (R$4.20) practically drops you on the sand at Praia da Joaquina. For Mole, buses 360,840 and 850 pass by from TILAG.

Lagoa da ConceiQS.o For spectacular scenery exhilarating water sports or all-night parties, Lagoa da ConceiQdo is a popular alternative to the beaches. Forested hills form a fabulous backdrop for the pretry lagoon. The town of Lago4 often packed with tourists, sits on a sandbar

that divides the two halves ofthe lagoon and is the island's action-packed center.

O

sigtrts & Activities f Mirante da Lagoa da ConceigSo

vtEwPolNT

024hr) EEB The postcard view of Lagoa da Conceigao awaits at this muststop lookout, which frames both sides ofthe lagoon, the dunes ofJoaquina and beyond. (SC-404 s/n;

Store

Rebel

suRFtNG

(Henrique Veras do Nascimento 150; 910am10pm) A nice surf shop renting boards (per day R$100). It can also arrange surf lessons.

lI

Sleeping

*Tucano House

(848

HosrELs

3207-8287; www.tucanohouse.com:

Rua

das Araras 229: dm R$55-75, d with/without bath-

room from R$260/240; &closed Mar 15-Nov; @ @ 6 B ) y' Siblings Lila and Caio are your hospitaliry wizard hosts at this eco-forward hostel in the heart of Lagoa. Their childhood home now features solar-heated showers, a recycled rainwater cistern and amenities like bike and surfboard rentals. Dorrns have personal USB ports and the revamped outdoor bar is killer for a cold one. Island adventures are in a decked-out WV van.

*Janeta

de

M6rcia

8&8899

(A,B

99958-1782; www.ianelademarcia.com; Rua Brazilian do Beija Flor 112; d R$425;

E@6)

returnee M6rcia and her big, hospitable personaliw run the show at this intimate B&B - don t call it a pousada - hidden away in an upscale residential neighborhood five minutes from TII,AG. M6rcia's keen eye for art and design triumphs in her five cozy guest

rooms; the marvelous breakfast comes in part from her own gardens.

!

e"ting

*c"te cultura

cAFEss

(www.cafeculturafloripa.com.br; Severino de 0liveira 635; mains R$9-46.50; &8:30am-ll:30pm Mon-Sat,to 10pm Sun; 6) BreaKast until lpm, waffles, salads, panini (really bruschetta but who's paying attention?), sophisticated

2l =l = -

m

a

-{

o o a

--l

302 mains a.nd sp€cialty java served by various

l;

craft beer list at this cultured bar has been trimmed to 25 or so, but 14 taps means the draft selections - mostly southern and re-

methods. Floripa's best cafe is broqht to you by a Californian ex-Starbucks barista and his Brazilian coffee-heiress wife. The expanded Iocation is gorgeous, with mffee sacks as lampshades and cushy couch seating.

gional Brazilian brews - has been expanded. Drink it all down vith an Old Man and the Sea-inspired library-vibe with sunset views.

*Restaurante Lagoa Azul (www.restaurantelagoaazul.com.br;

(www.laybackbeer.com.br:

7l

Caminho Costa da Lagoa l7l,Pier peopleR$69-15/: 010:30am-6:30pm;

sEAFooDSs

Servidio mains for 2

6) y'

Our

favorite of the atmospheric seafood restaurants that line the western coast of La6oa de Conceic6o in the village of Costa da Lagoa- A wealth ofjust-caught seafood is on offer at CN this sustainably leaning waterfront hot spot, o C b\tihe carapaaa is the way to go, available --{ only in this village. Tb reach Pier I7, catch a frequent boat from a r Lagoa de Conceicio and stay on board past z. the far more crowded first stop (you will also (, catch the boat back more easily from here as it passes by first on its way back to town).

a

-

-

O Barba Negra sEAFooDgS (248 3232-5098; www.obarbanegra.mm.br: Av das Rendeiras 1628; mains for 2 people R$n-178;

9noon-llpm

Wed-Mon, to 5pm Sun Mar-Nov;

(fried pastry stuffed with shrimp), and follows with excellent seafood creations like,4 Moda da Pirata (fish with a shellfish and tomato reduction sauce) ot Dueto Barba Negra (crispy octopus and shrimp with anchovy tapenade and mint vinaigrette).

*Dolce Vita

B %4n-6U3;

MEDITERRANEAN9$9

www.fucebook.com/dolcevita

floripa: Laurindo Janu6rio da Silveira 1233; mains R$62-98; &7-11pm Wed-Fri, noon-4pm & 7-11pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun; 6) From a charming can-

dlelit porch in Canto da lagoa, a small but delectable daily-changing menu of Medinspired contemporary dishes makes for one

of Floripa's most memorable meals. Housemade pappardelle with tender, threeday marinated lamb ragi and, calamarata pasta with lemon sauce and grilled octopus are standouts. The enthusiastic English-speaking server Luis makes service exceptional.

!

orinring & Nighttife

*Books

&

Beers

lvo

Park

CRAFTBEER

Henrique Veras do Nas-

E)

cimento 190; &&m-midnight; tagoa da Conceiqdo's former Food Tfuck Parking tot got a swift makeover in 2018 by local craft

beer empire Layback Beer with Brazilian skateboarding legend Pedro Barros providing a bit of the monetary might. Nine ship ping containers house a pizzeri4 burger joinq Back Joy Coffee and Layback Thp and Cheese (craft beer and gamey bar snacks).

fr

entertainment Pub

John Bull

LtvEMUStc

(www.fu cebook.com/.johnbullfloripa: Rua das Ren-

deiras 1046; 89:30pm-4am Wed-Fri, from l0pm Sat) Famous for live rock, with bonus views

over the lagoon.

6) @ Cetting There & Away

The best of a battery of seafood restaurants along 2kmJong Av das Rendeiras, the 'Black Beard' does a fantastic pastel de camarAo

(A

Layback

BAR

(www.booksbeers.com; DAquino 103; 95pm-midnight Tue-Fri, from 12:30pm Sat, 12:3010:30pm Sun; @ ) The once outrageous bottled

From TICEN (p298) in Cenko, catch bus 330 'Lagoa da Conceiq6o' (Platform A) to TILAG

(p298) for R$4.20.

($ cetting Around Gooperbarco (Q 48 3232-1266: www.cooper barco.wordpress.com; lvo D'Aqunio 14; return R$15) runs the local transport boats to the restaurants at Costa da Lagoa as well as Barra da Lagoa (a massive and scenic timesaver to beat the brutal summer traffic). To Costa da Lagoa (R$25 return), boats launch every 45 to 60 minutes between 7:10am and 11:30pm weekdays, and Saturday and Sunday between 8am and l0pm. To Barra da Lagoa (R$22 return), boats run hourly between 7am and 10pm in summer only (Christmas to Easter). Boats leave from next to the bridge across the lagoon in Lagoa de Conceic6o.

South Island With white-sand beaches ard

mountains

that &op into the sea the south is the most pristine and picturesque part of the island. But south-island residents are engaged in the inevitable struggle between developers and preservers: the former see the potential for more tourists and big bucks; the latter feax that their piece of paradise will soon resemble the north. The balance is delicate and ever

303

-

gorgeous Campeche is constantly t€etering between these two extremes. For noq these towns retain their idyllic appeal. The beaches are less crowded (hot surf spots excepted) and the vibe is more ]aid-back than other island destinations.

shifting

lS Cetting There & Away For southern beaches, including Armag5o, P6ntano do Sul and Costa de Dentro, catch bus 410 'Rio Tavares' (Platform B) from TICEN (p298), then transfer at TlRl0 (p298) to bus 563. For

Campeche and Ribeirio da llha, hop on bus 463 and bus 561, respectively, from TlRl0 instead.

and other free thinkers seeking to escape the crowds. The beach is protected, so the sand is completely undeveloped, yet those condo complexes - especially in up and coming Nova Campeche - have managed to creep in as close as the law allows. The beach faces Ilha do Campeche, home to a singXe beach and summer-only restaurant, as well as over l0o petroglyphs distributed around lo archaeological sites. Only 4,00 people per day are allowed to visit.

O sigtrts *Praia

do

Campeche

(Campeche) The 3.5km Praia

Ribeirio da llha More than any other town, the tiny village of Ribeirlo da Ilha has preserved its Azorean heritage, evident in its cobblestone streets and colorful roof tiles. The main square centers on the lovely Igreja NS da tapa do Riber6o, which dates to 1806. The town is

known for its oyster harvesting and

has

Bus .1,63 (R$4.20) from TIRIO (p298)

O sigtrts

this intimate baroque-inspired church was restored on order from Emperor Dom Pedro II himsell who visited in 184,5 and coughed up R$400,000 to get the job done. The ceiling is adorned with paintings, including notable depictions of the Holy Family and the

crucifixion.

\

(8,t8

Sleeping Naturezas de

99190-9674;

Floripa

pousADA$s

www.naturezasdefloripa.

com.br; Serviddo Famllia Nunes 59A; s/d from

R$240l300; EE) 1.he pousada formerly known as Campeche Natur has been split

-

into three inns Naturezas de Floripa, Verde Natur and Old Beach - all looked after by the same family. At this one, the bulk of the rooms - seven spacious

nation-themed retreats flanked by hammocks, lush gardens and artistically fed common areas - await travelers just l00m from Campeche beach.

e"ttng

*ostradamus

lE

(448 cHURcH

f

sEAFooD$sg

3337-5711; www.ostradamus.com.br; Rod

Pousada Verde

(448

Natur

PousADAssg

99171-9997; www.naturcampeche.com.br; ServidZo Familia Nunes 59C; s/d from R$368/459;

a vacation

credibly presented seafood dishes here are highlight.

Thlmir, the English-speaking tsAB) and world-traveling owner, has built an endlessly charming empire on Serviddo Familia Nunes that includes neighbors Naturezas de Floripa (p3O3) and Old Beach. He now oversees the five rooms here decorated with foraged international treasures. Rooms feature small gardens and carbon-neutral touches like solar-heated showers.

Campeche

Armagdo

Campeche is a bohemian outpost, home to artists, massage therapists, surfrng hippies

The little district of Arma4eo dates to the 18th century when it served as a whaling

Baldicero Filomeno 7640; oysters R$35-45, mains

for 2 people R$135-195; Onoon-llpm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun; 6) Atmospheric tables line the glass-enclosed deck at this incredibly cinematic seafood restaurant. You can slurp oysters served over a dozen ways, but don't fill up on those - the outstanding and in-

= -

*pousaaa

RiberSo

o

is one of Floripa's five-star beaches, an ab- o C solute stunner of sun-kissed perfection --{ with wind conditions lending themselves to fantastic surfing and kitesurfing. Desolate @ dunes and pounding surf - stretching for z. miles in either direction - offer relative soli- I tude for swimmers and sunbathers. drops you 350m from the beach.

lgreja NS da Lapa do

-

do Campeche a

developed into a gastronomic destination throughout the years. Today, its waterfront is lined with lovely seaJood restaurants.

(www.nossasenhoradalapa.org.br; Alberto Cavalheiro 238; $hours vary) Dating back to 1806,

BEAcH

o

Z

304 center. The impressive ISxeja Santa Ana

still stands from those days. While whaling is no longer practiced, the fishing industry still thrives here. Inland from Arma4ao, the tagoa do Peri is a pretty lagoon surrounded by parkland.

lo r>

O

-2 I{

sigtrts

Parque Municipal Lagoa da Peri

t> 7et -a

= -

o =

i

NATURERESERVE

(Francisco Thomaz dos Santos 3150) Lesser known and less visited than Lagoa da Conceiq6o, Parque Municipal Lagoa da Peri has wonderful opportunities for swimming and hiking (as well as kayaking and standup paddleboarding (SUP) in summer) and picnic and child playground facilities.

The jumping-off point for the lake is about lkm south of Praia de Arma46o on the main road approaching the town - you can t miss the large park entrance.

lI

Sleeping

Pousada

P6nareia

lH

Sleeping & Eating

*Pousada Sitio dosTucanos (A 48

3n7-fiU;

tNNss

www.pousadasitiodostucanos.

com; Estrada Rozalia Ferreira 2776', s/d lrom R$190/330, chalet p${QQ; @ )

About l.skm past

this multilingual Germanrun pousada sits hish up in peaceful farm country the domain of animal lovers and

Costa de Dentro,

bird-watchers. Extremely cozy, it has rustic but comfortable rooms, most with balconies; common areas axe flooded with light.

*Bar

(A48

do

Arante

sEAFooogg

3237'7022; www.facebook.com/arantebar

erestaurante; Abelardo 0tdcilio Gomes 254: mains for 2 people R$59-179, r,rreekend buffet per person R$69;

911:30am-midnigtrt:

E) The rustic seafood

shack Arante has become an island institution, its walls covered with poetry and artwork that patrons have added over the years. Massive servings of fish and shrimp dishes often are coming straight off the boaU it all goes down right on Pintano do Sul beach.

pousADASs

(8,18 338-1616;

www.pousadapenareia.com.br; Hermes Guedes da Fonseca 207; d R$320-440;

BA) The l3 rooms at this simple but very popular Arma4no choice have direct access to the beach. Friendly Klaus speaks multiple languages and is an excellent source of island knowledge. There's a tranquil baclVard with a shaded hammock nook and a welcoming common area with pool table and fireplace. Visiting Sagui monkeys pop in at

THE MAINLAND North and south of Florian6polis, fine sand and big surf attract beachcombers, sunbathers and surfers. Inland, the Serra Geral runs

parallel to the coast, protecting some of southern Brazilt most remote destinations. This is where Santa Catarina's German and Italian heritage endures most tenaciously.

breakfast.

Q lnformation (848

3237-5660; Francisco Thomaz dos Santos 3150, Lagoa da Peri; &9am-5pm Dec-Mar) Seasonal tourist information at Lagoa da Peri. C.A.T.

P&ntano do Sul & Costa de Dentro Pantano do Sul is both the figurative and literal end of the road, and it feels like it. Fishers of Azorean descent still inhabit the village, and the beach is dotted with fishing boats and seafood shacks. Ringed by mountains, the protected cove contains calm, cool waters that are ideal for sunning and swimming. Costa de Dentro, 3.5km west, has access to the lovely, calm waters of the Praia dos Agores - making this a good escape from the surfing scene - or you can continue all the way to Praia SolidSo or Saquinho.

Joinville Qoxxtt t PoP515,ooo While Joinville does not have the historic center (or the beer festival) of Blumenau,

it

does have its own claims to fame. It's the only city outside Moscowwith a school of the Bolshoi Balle! a coup that goes hand in hand with its annual dance festival, one of the largest and most renowned in South America, and it relishes its own decidedly German roots. They are evident in the city's nouveau-Alpine architecture and well-manicured parks.

O

sigtrts & Activities *Mirante de Joinville

(Pastor Guilherme R5u s/n; 96am-8pm)

vtEwpolNl

EEl

To

get a stupendous S6odegree panorama of Joinville and the Baia da Babitonga, head to the city's 250m-high viewpoinL The lookout" at the top of Morro de Boa Vist4 is closed to privat€ cars and accessible onty by foot, bike, publicbus ortaxi (Uber is not authorized).

305

f

Bus 2015 (www.gidion.com.br; SaguaEu s/n) 'Mirante'leaves from Terminal Central, stopping at the base ofthe hill every 30 minutes between 7:50am and 6:20pm during the week and every 20 minutes between 8am Barco Principe

lll

3455-4444;

BoATING

www.barcoprincipe.com.br;

Baltazar Buschle 3870; adulVchild incl lunch from

R$158/79; Stours 10:30am) This famous boat cruise runs tours around the Baia da Babitonga, stopping in Sao Francisco do Sul for 112 hours. It departs from the Espinheiros neighborhood, lOkm from the center, but only when it has 1O0 people or more on board. Pricey, but everyone raves about it.

t.

*d

Biergarten mains R$16-76;

DANoE

Av

Jos6

&Jul) Holding a Guinness World Record for the largest dance event in the world by number of participants, Joinville's annual twoweek dance festival is one of the continent's most important competitions and attracts the best of the best of South American companies in a variety of schools, including ballet, hiyhop, jazz,

ll

fofi

pumpkin

Q

Hostel & Pousada HosTELi 99954-3434; www.ioinvillehostel.com.br; Dona Francisca 1i|76; dm from R$55, s/d R$99/f5, without bathroom R$89/125: @6) If you like your hostel to feel like home, this one, run by the immediately likable Kely, is for you. Boasting large green spaces, a little garden and a good bit more att€ntion to detail and decor than the norm, Kely has creat€d a homespun vibe - with deeply snugslybeds just a lo-minute walk from Centro.

*Joinville

(447

ale.

Orint ing & Nightlife

*Mad Dwarf

among others.

Sleeping & Eating

Mon-Thu, to lam Fri

6)

il 2 =

o = = -r

The most agreeable restaurant in Joinville is a convivial spot to sarn- m ple regional specialties like marceco (*luffed garganey, a kind of small duck; Rgll9 for two). Wash it down with Zei! the hotse chope (dmft beer), of which there axe numerous staples (try the Munich Helles) a.nd seasonal options ranging from a chomlate dunkel to

Vieira 315, Centreventos Cau Hansen:

tap, contemporary and

& [am-midnight

& Sat, to 5pm Sun;

Danga

(www.festivaldedancadejoinville.com.br;

BRAZIL|ANSS

(www.biergarten.com.br; Visconde de Taunay 1183;

Festivals & Events

Festival de

cERMANss

(D47 ilA-0275; SC-418, Km 83; buffet weekdays/ Sat R$38/52; S1l30am-2pm Mon-Fri, to 2:30pm Sat) This highqualrty buffet of Brazilianinterpreted German specialties is not the kind ofplace you want to go more than once, but once is worth the waistline expansion. Joinville's }:r"sl, marreco (stuffed duck), pork shanks, a gagg)e of uursrc (German sausages) - it's all here. And don-t forget the duck-fat fried bananas! The downside, besides the excess of calories, is the location 23km northwest of central Joinville.

and 7pm on weekends (R9,1.65).

(447

Hiibener

Restaurante

cRAFTBEER

(www.maddwarf.com.br; ottokar Doerffel 1112;

$$-

to midnight Thu-Sat: d) Joinoilense Lake their suds very seriously and Mad Dwarf is the best of several brewpubs. There's 4,0 rotating taps, 10 of which are reserved for guest brews (available in pints) while the remaining 30 are devoted to its own concoctions (available up to 300m1). It's just outside of Centro in Atiradores, a quick hop and skjp from the bus station. 11pm Tue & Wed,

($ Information Joinville's tourist information booths are helpful, but most unhelpfully located around

BUSES FROM JOINVILLE DESTINATION

STARTING FARE (RS)

TIME (HR)

COMPANY

Blumenau

39

zrh

Catarinense (www.catarinense.net)

Curitiba

31

2

Catarinense

Florian6polis

64

2Y2

Catarinense

Foz do lguagu

170

13

Catarinense, Expresso Nordeste

Porto Alegre

163

9

(www.expnordeste.com.

br)

Catarinense

Rio de Janeiro

219

t7

Penha (www-nspenha.com.br)

Sio Paulo

96

I

Catarinense

306

li z

=

(D

the town's outskirts, though the branch (847 3433-5007: www.joinville.sc.gov.br; XV de Novembro, P6rtico; & 9am-6pm) at the town P6rtico is adjacent to 0pa's great beer bar. There are other branches at the airpofi(447 3427-4409; www.joinville.sc.gov.br; Santos Dumont 9000; &10am-7pm Mon, 7:30am-l:30pm & 2-8pm Tue-Fri,8am-Spm Sat), Gasa Krllger (A 47 3427'5623; www.ioinville.sc.gov.br; SC418, Km 0, Casa KrUger; 09am-6pm) and near the base of Mirante de Joinvllle (E 47 34530177: www.ioinville.sc.gov.br; Pastor Guilherme

center, the architecture is dominated by Germanic themes. Local restaurants specialize in ei,sbein (cured ham hock) and &assler (smoked pork chop), and numerous beer brands are brewed locally. Most telling, perhaps, is the tall, fair population, many of whom still speak German in their

Rau s/n;

(www.parquevilagermanica.com.br; Alberto Stein 199: 98am-l1pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat, from

&9am-6pm).

(S Cetting There & Away

E

Joinville-Lauro Carneiro de Loyola Airport

m

(JOI: @ 47 3481- 4000; www4.inf raer o.gou.br

C

carneiro-de-loyola: Av Santos Dumont 9000) is 13km north from the city; regular flights go to Campinas and Slo Paulo.

/

BUS

Viacio Verdes Mares (www.vmares.com.br) runs regular buses to llha de S5o Francisco, both from the bus station (R$17.30), and, more conveniently and cheaply, from Centro (R$14.10).

O cettlng

Around

TOlFROM THE AIRPORT To reach the

airport, catch bus 800/lririI

(R$4.30) from Box 3 at the Terminal Central and switch at Terminal lririi for the 0240 'Aeroporto via Emilio Landmann'to the airport (plan on an hour ride to be safe). BUS The bus station is 2km southwest of the city center. Local buses go every 15 minutes to the

city center from

a

stop just outside the station

on Rua Parnalba (R$4.65).

Blumenau l4oxxqt

t

PoP3og.ooo

Blumenau isn't the only city in Santa Catarina that was founded by German immigfants who transplanted their beer-brewing exper-

tise and their taste for Alpine architecture to South America But it is the best known, thanks in part to its uninhibit€4 over-thetop Oktoberfest The annual beerdrinking extrava6anza is among Brazil's largest street parties, second only to Carnaval in Rio.

Oktoberfest is what makes Blumenau it is not what makes the city German. Throughout the historic city

famous, but

O

sigtrts

Parque Vila

Germ6nica

AREA

llam Sun) Blumenau's festivals are held at Parque Vila Germinica, part convention hall, part kitschy Alpine village. There are

AIR

z. aeroportos/aeroporto-de-joinville-lauro-

homes.

several good bar/restaurants (Bier Vila

(p31o)), gourmet shops and a whole lot of lederhosen. To get there, catch buses 30, 3l or 32 from EstaQeo Dr Blumenau (p3lo).

Novembro

AREA Rua XV Rua XV Novembro is home to the city's best examples of Germanic architecture, including the Castelinho da XV (XVdeNwembrolo50), a replica of the city hall of Michelstadt" Germany, and now a Havan departrnent stole.

{d

restivals & Events

*oktoberfest

(A47 3381-700;

BEER

www.oktobedestblurnenau.

com.br: Alberto Stein 199, hrque Vila Gernfnica; per day R$30-40) A festive parade kicks off nearly 20 days of folk musig dancing and beer drinking that ranks as the world's second-biggest German paxry a.fter Munich. A smaller Sommerfest tales place in January.

lh

Sleeping & Eating

*Hot"l Gl6ri,

HorEtss

(047 3326{988; www.hotelgloria.com.br 7 de Setembro 954; d/trlq from R$2f9609/3591 E@6) With its wood-paneled entrance, stained glass and traditional German kaffeehaus (coffeehouse), this Blumenau classic has modernized its entire fleet of rooms but maintains its Old World flair. Upgraded rooms have restrained style ard explosive showers. Brealdast at Cafehaus Gl6ria (www. cafehaus.conr.br; buffet from R$29-38; S6am9pm Mon-Fri,7am-8pm Sat,6am-l0am Sun;

6)

is

exmordinaxy.

Moinho do

Vale

(A47 3322-3/40; mrn.br forto

Rico

BUFFET

www.resburantenninhodorale

66; buffet $ieeld4/s/i!/eelcn&

307

Blumenau

(91 o-o-2smitE

Bier Vila (1.2kn): C:A.I. (1.2km): Parque Vila Gernanica (1.2km)

i\

\

Cqvejatia Eisenbahn

lOkm).

t

Pamerode

(30km): SchornsteiD Kneipe (30km)

Bier

Cervejaria Das Cervejatia

c;'\dc *t%

./

f""

rD

il

C

t 2

e\C

q Praca

o

IJercllio Luz

to

E5

Sleric

(!

Z

ktaQAo Blumenau

4 R Paul

(/

z. = C

,C.A.T-

@

Hering

oornh",o"

I

Euses to

".x;::);", de

R$58.90/69, rmirs R$3$lii5; 91t30am-3prn & TprmidnigtrtTteki 11i|&rn-3pn Suc 6) One of Blumenau's dassiest droices, this is ahighqualiW buffet lun& stop with orcellent semice, gr€af r€gional and Braziliar choices (stuffed duch trcut @iche, tamboqui fish ribs, pork lanuckle) and even better desserts ganoff with dnce dz lzite,banoffe ed in the price. Dig in while ogling views and the epic &nta Catarina

f

Basement English

pub

(walnut strcpie) - includcity and river beer lisL

Blumenau O Sishts

I

Castelinho da xv............................_......82

2

Rua XV Novembro................................82

@Sleeping

3 Hotel G16ria............................................83

$

Eating

4 5

Basement English Pub.........................82 Cafehaus G16ria............................. (see 3) Moinho do Va1e......................................C2

puBFooDss

(www.basementpub.com.br;

Paul Hering 35; mains R$26.50-50.50; e6pm-midnight Mon-Sat; 6) Easily one of Brazil's best bars in a gorgeous authentic English pub atmosphere. It does a good job with homesick-remedy pub grub like fish and chips, stea.ks and pastrami that hit the spot arnong a blitzkrieg of brats. There's often live music.

f Abendbrothaus

(847 3378-[57;

cERMANsss

www.abendbrothaus.blogspot.com:

Henrique Conrad 1194, Vila ltoupara; meals R$76; & l1:30am-4pm Sun; 6 ) This Sunday-only feast is the most coveted table in Santa Cataxina for

marreco (stuffed Garyaney, a kind of small duck); in facl the menu's only item begins its journey to your stomach at 6am, when Josefa Jensen begins a sunrise recipe ritual handed down from her grandmother. C.ooked in ba-

nana leaves for 2tl hours, the bird emerges crispy, golden brown atd perfecr

It's served alongside sauerkrau!

purple

cabbage, ftied maniocwith bacon, mashed potatoes. macaroni salad beeftongue and a family-secret apple sauce. The restaurant is 30km north of centro in Vila Itoupava- Reserve.

Q lnformation You'll find tourist information about Blumenau and the Vale Europeu at the C.A.T. (Cenho de Atendimento ao Turista; Z 47 3337-7726:wwwturismoblumenau.com.br; Albero Stein 199; &10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) located inside Parque Vila Germinica. Additional locations operate on Rua ltajai (Centro de Atendimento ao Turista; Q 47 3222-317 6; www.tu rismo bl u menau.com. br; Praga Johan Peter Wagner 3435; &10am-2pm

308

I .1,

\

m

1

t

Vale Europeu The collection of towns and villages celebrates its northern German heritaround Blumenau that were populated age every January, and the Museo by ltalian and German immigrants Pomerano (84{l 3387-0408; Harmann is called the Vale EuroPeu. Their Weege 111, Pomerode; R$6: Ol0-11:30am &

descendants

still preserve

their

European culture, and during the 17 days of Oktoberfest many towns host their own unique festivals. All year long, the area has bucolic views dotted by traditional German timber-framed (Fachwerk) houses, characterized by high-pitched roofs and brick facades.

Towns&Villages For a profound insight into the region's Germanic roots, head about 30km north of Blumenau to Pomerode, where an estimated 70% of the population still speaks German. The Festa Pomerana

1-5pm Tue-Fri, lOam-4pm Sat & Sun)

explores

the town's history in loving detail. The region's Italian heritage is alive in Nova Trento, 61km south of Blumenau, which celebrates local gastronomy during the Grape Festival in January and is home to the important pilgrimage site Santudrio Santa Paulina, an imposing modern church with a dramatic slalom{ike sloping ceiling. Some 4,o,00o pilgrims and tourists visit this church per month. Timb6, founded bY both Germans and Italians, is brimming with verdant gardens and is considered by the UN to be one of the best Places to live in Brazil.

309

f:l I

r.

E

Cycling in Vale

Europeu

2.

5

Roasted duck

and sidedishes.

Abendbrothaus (p307)

,

3. Santuerio Santa Paulina

6

Festivals

BestPlaceto Stay

Blumenau's massive Oktoberfest (p806) is nearly 20 days of folk music, dancing and beer drinking - lots of beer drinking. This is the 'biggest German party in the Americas'(well, second biggest after Ontario, but who's counting?).

A pleasant place to lay your head in Pomerode is Hotel Bergblick (8)47 33870952; www.bergblick.com.br; Georg Zeplin 120, Pomerode; s/d from R$198/328; l?), which

has gigantic rooms with mountain views and an Alpine feel.

OutdoorAdventures

BestRestaurant

The Vale Europeu - like Europe itself - lends itself to beautiful countryside pedaling. See the Circuito Vale Europeu website (www.circuitovaleeuropeu. com.br) for an excellent self-guided bike tour. The helpful website www. valeeuropeu.com.br, and the comprehensive booklet Vale Europeu, which can be picked up at the tourist office in Blumenau, both cover ecotourism opportunities in the valley.

The feast at Abendbrothaus (p307) in Vila Itoupav4 25km north of Blumenau, is the most coveted table in santa catarina for rnarreco (stuffed garganey, a kind of small

duch.

BestMicrobrewery Schornstein Kneipe's (p310) pilsners, India pale ale, weiss, bock and imperial stout all cure'homebeersickness'; and it has the best tasting room of the bunch, as well. It's a must on the artisanal beer trail.

310

EIN BIER, POR FAVOR!

h = z.

o 7

{o --o

Brazil's mainstream brews - Skol, Brahma and Antarctica - are fine for staving off the tropical heat, but let's face it: taste is not their strong suit. Luckily, the craft beer revolution is in full swing throughout Brazil, but German immigrants from the Vale Europeu have had a handle on suds for decades! There is a true beer culture here dating back to the mid-lgth century. The following are some of the region's best breweries, all with tasting rooms in and around Blumenau (start off at Bier vila (www.biervila.com.br; Alberto Stein 199, Parque Vila Germ6nica; & llam-midnight: 6 ) and pick your favorites, then head to the breweries themselves!). check out www.valedacerveja.com for more information on Iocal breweries.

Cervejaria Eisenbahn (847

I

3488-7307; www.eisenbahn.com br; Bahia 5181, Blumenaui

5-11pm Mon &Tue, to midnight Wed, to lam Thu-Sat)

Schornstein Kneipe (447 3333-2759; www.schornstein.com.br; Hermann Weege 60, Pomerode; 95-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, l1am-midnight Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; W) Cervejaria Bierland (847 3323-6588; www.bierland.com.br; Gustavo Zimmermann

5361,

Blumenau; *8am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Fri)

a

Cerveiaria Das Bier (p47 3397-8600; www.dasbier.com.br: Bonifdcio Haendchen 5311, Gaspar: g5pm-midnight Wed-Fri, from 1lam Sat,11am-7pm Sun)

T

6pm Mon-Sat;

Cervejaria Blumenau

(www.cervejablumenau.com.br:

z.

o ! o r c./,

Arno Delling388, Blumenau; &lOam-

E).

Mon-Fri) at the eastern entrance to town and at the Museu da Cerveia (Centro de Atendimento ao Turista; E 47 3326-6791; www.turismoblumenau. com.br; XV de Novembro 160, Museu da Cerveia).

of sun. The curse is the high-rise hotels and condominiums that are mole prominent than

($ Cett:ng There & Away

Balne6rio Camborif

The bus

station (E 47 3323'2155',2de Setembro

1222) is 6km west ofthe center. To get into the center of town, take bus 11 or 17 (R$4.05) from the far side of Rua 2 de Setembro (2 de Setembro) a bit of a schlep - to EstagSo Gomes, or order an Uber lor around R$13 off-peak. Heading back, the same buses leave from Estagio Dr Blumenau (Av

-

Castelo Branco).

Forthe Vale Europeu, half-hourly to hourlyVolkmann (E 47 3395-1400; wwuturismovolkmann. com.br) buses head from Av Castelo Branco to Pomerode (R$6.20, 3:55am to 10:10pm, less on weekends). From the bus station, Expresso Presidente (E 47 3352-1093; www.expressopresidente.com.br: 2 de Setembro 1222, Rodovi6ria de Blumenau) has three or so daily buses (less on weekends) making the 30km jauntfrom Blumenau toTimb6 (R$11.35, one hour, 12:10pm, 4pm and 6:45pm). Reunidas (A 47 3323-3207; www.reunidas.com.br; 2 de Setembro 1222, Rodovi6ria de Blumenau) has two buses from Blumenau to Nova Trento (R$25.30, two hours, 6:40am and 2:45pm)

North of Ftorian6polis Varied and inviting; thebeaches alongthe coast north of Florian6polis areboth is blessingand its curse. The blessing is the crystalline waters and fine sand, not to mention the endless days

the forested hillsides and roclg outposts'

Aoxxtt t

PoPlo8.ooo

Balnedrio Camborftl

is

considered

a

pau-

pefs Rio. Indeed, it has a giant Christ statue, beautiful beaches, hopping nightlife and a long stretch of sllyscraper-lined sand that suspiciously mirrors Copacabana right down to its name - Av Atlintica - all for a ftaction of Copacabana prices. But the vibe is forced and unsophisticat€d at times, and can often feel like one big clich6. Camborif is known for being as gay-friendly as Rio, and also for its teleffico (cabte car) connecting a large central morro (hill) with two beaches.

O

siglrts

*P"rque

Unipraias

NATURERIsERvE

(A47 3&4'760f,l: wwwunipnias.com.br; Av

At-

l6ntica 6006; combo ticket adult/child R$12V100;

& 9am"8pm Dec'Feb, 9:30am{pm Mar-Nw) Camborif's pride and joy is this six-hectare urban reserve. In addition to 500m ofwalking trails, the real coup is t,Le amusements, which are sold separately or as a combo ticket: the

bondinho (Cable Car; 847 3zM-7600; www.unipraias.com.br; Av Atlintica 6006, Parque Unipraias; adult/child R$4721; & gam-8pm Dec-Feb, 9:30am-

to be the only telffirico in the world connecting a large

6pm Mar-Nw), said

(cable car)

311 cerfira) rnar"ro (hill) with two beaches; the absolutely thrilling Yoohooo! (R$34; Sgam8pm Dec-Feb,9:30am-6pm Mar-Nov),

Felissimo Exclusive

(847

ts6t4)

This refined, I2-room pousa.da is a worthwhile spot to break the barik in BaIneSrio. Classic white dominates the interior, a.ll designed bythe disceming, handson owner. Nespresso machines and Bose SoundDocks are standard, and some ofthe tuck-away-forever rooms feature outdoor bathtubs.

9:30am-6pm Mar-Nov), a 750m-high zipline. The park is mostlyweekends only in June and Augusq so check ahead. Feb,

Statue

LANDMARK

Bistr6 Palatare (847 3366-3699; www.palatare.com.br;

(www.cristoluz.com.br; lndon6sia 800; adult before/

afterTpm R$20l35,child R$5/10; &4pm-midnight Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun) The 3Bm Cristo Luz statue holds a sombrero from which a spotlight illuminates the city at night, sometimes

in

World

lH

where mains like duck confit with soft polenta and mustard sauce or Uruguayan beefare made; his wife, Margaret, runs the dining room.

AMUSEMENTpARK

Hostel

& Sat;

26 Eduardo handles the kitchen,

Q

(447

Valley

99903-4303;

cLUB

www.greenvalleybr.com;

Ant6nio Lopes GonEalves Bastos 1083; R$f5-220; S9am-8am Thu-Sun) One of the two world-

renowned mega dance clubs

in

Balnedrio tossed about in the 'World's Best CluU conversations arnong internationally famous DJs. Explosive sets focus on big room, deep house, electro house, house, progressive house, tech house and techno. No shorts, sleeveless T-shirts, flipflops or caps. Buy tickets online at www.ingressonacional.com.br.

Camborit, whose name

HosrELSg

www.bonabrigohostel.com; Rua 500, 501: dm R$80-130, d R9400; E 6 ) you

can't miss the blinding yellow-and-bluetrimmed facade of this newer hostel occupyrng a residential home lkm back from the breach. Dorms come in four- to l0-bed configurations and are indeed top-end -

is often

Club

Warung Beach cruB (A47 3348-7U3; www.warungclub.com.br; Av Jos6 Medeiros Vi6ira 350, Praia Brava, ltajai; R$88-132) Surrounded by virgrn Atlantic forest and Indonesian-inspired archi-

privacy curtains, personal outlets, modern bathrooms - and there is a large shared

tecture, Warung Beach Club marries

prices here teeter outside reality.

world-renowned mega dance club with lush surroundings.

kitchen and pool table. But high-season

BUSES FROM BLUMENAU STARTING

Balneirio Cambori6

23 484

Curitiba

Florian6polis' Joinville Pigarras

FARE(RS)

503 36.50 282

-o o I

1

z. o T

o.inring & Nighflife

*Green

3056-0,t46;

DESTINATION

2

Reserve.

Sleeping & Eating

(847

Fri

hands-on couple runs the best con- = temporary restaurant in town, specializing z. in Franco-Italian dishes that only grace their o fr eight tables on Ftiday and Saturday nights. --l

326L-2222; www.betocanero.mm.br: ln6cio Fmncisco de Souza l59Z knha; aduVchild R$135/20; 99am-6prn) latin America's bisgest arnusement park Athactions are divided among nine themed areas and include plenty of high-adrenaline roller coasters (such as the FireWhip, reaching speeds ofnearly tookm per hour) and other rides sprcad over l,l. sq km. The park is located in Penha and is most easily and often visited from Balnedrio Camborif, 35km to the south.

Bonabrigo

il

Rua 2550,

E) A

streaming colors. During summer, live

Beto Carrero

FRENCHS3

699; mains R$tE-82; S7:30pm-midnight

music is often staged from 7pm. It's roughly R$7 to R$I2 for an Uber ride from Avenida Atldntica.

(447

BOUTTQUEHOTELSSS

3360-6291; wwwjelissimoexclusivehotel.com. br; Alles Blaun 201, Praia dos Amores r R$810-1460;

a low-rid-

ing mountain sled that barrels throuBh the Atlantic rainforest at speeds of 60km per hour; and ZipRider (R$zl5; g9am-8pm Dec-

Cristo Luz

Hotel

TIME (HR)

BUS COMPANY

ly2

Catarinense (wwwcatarinense.net) Catarinense Catarinense

2

Catarinense Catarinense

a

o r a

312

Q lnformation P.l.T. (Posto de lnformagOes Turisticas; 247 3367-8005; www.secturbc.com.br; Av do Estado 5041; S 6am-midnight) Balne6rio Cambori0's tourist information is helplul though

inconveniently located at the entrance to town' 2km southwest of Av Atl6ntica.

lo I>

-I{ ID

{S Cetting There & Away station(A47 3367'2901; Av Santa Catarina 81), Catarinense (www.catarinense. net) runs frequent buses to Florian6polis (from R$32,1% hours), Joinville (from R$36,1Y2 hours) and Blumenau (from R$26, lYz hours). For Bombinhas, Praiana (E 47 3367-1224;www. From the bus

,o

-,

-

(/)

o C

-+ l

o a T

-o x, ;z.

praiana.com.br; Av Santa Catarina) buses between Itajai and Porto Belo passthe intermunicipal bus stop on Rua Santa Catarina nexttothe bus station between 14 and 25 times perday around 30 to 40 minutes after departing ltaiai (R$5.85, one hour). 0nce in Porto Belo, you must switch to a Bombinhas-bound bus (R$4, 20 minutes).

It's a R$10 or less off-peak Uber ride from the bus station to Av Atldntica.

o ! o (= n South of Florian6polis

The waves have put this stretch of coastline on the map. While the local population is still larBely descended from Azorean fisherfoft you'll be hard-pressed to find them amid the suntanned surfers and bikini-clad beauties.

Guarda do Emba(t E

oxxaa

Famous for its excellent left that breaks at the mouth of the river, Guarda do Embat often makes the list of Brazil's best surfing beaches' This laid-bach bohemian surf village is one of southern Brazil's most postcaxd-perfect settings, and is an excellent destination for wave riders and other bohemian Wpes.

l*

Sleeping & Eating

Big

Bamboo

sEAFooDsSs

(www.bigbamboo.com.br; Beira do Rio da Madre; mains for 2 people R$7a.90-187.50; &11:30ammidnight Dec-Mar, 11:30am-4pm & 7-11pm Thu-Fri' to 5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Nov) A solid choice for

seafood with organic leanings and good' microbrews in a seaside setting with views of the river and beach. It's owned by the father of Brazilian footballer Fernando Prass, whose memorabilia decorates the bar.

6

srropping

Made in

Guarda

cLorHlNG

(www.madeinguarda.com.br; Geral da Guarda do

s/n; O9am-midday, 1-8pm Wed-Mon MarThis ecologically minded clothing brand now has stores in hip surf spots all over southern Brazil, but it hails from here. Emba0

Nov)

I

(S Cetting There & Away From Platform C at TICEN in Florian6polis, catch

Jotur (E 48 3279-3200; www.jotur.com.br:

Av

Paulo Fontes s/n, TICEN) bus 2050 to Estac6o Palhoga (R$6,45 minutes, every 20 minutes, 6am to ll:15pm). From the station, Jotur bus 06 'Pinheira/Guarda da Emba0' leaves for Guarda do Embari every 30 or 45 minutes (R$6 .75,lYqhour, 6:20am to 11:35pm). To a

continue south to Praia do Rosa, catch

Jotur bus

in the village back to Hwy BR-101

(R$3.60, 10 minutes), flag down a Santo Anjo Garopaba-bound bus (R$11, 30 minutes) from the southbound bus stop (Hwy BR-101) near the underpass, and get off at the Praia do Rosa turnoff on the road to Garopaba and catch a Praia do Rosa-bound Expreso Garopaba bus (R$3.50, every 30 to 45 minutes, 6:55am to llpm) on Rua Laudetino Ant6nio Telxara in front of Maresia Launches (there's no official bus stop) or order an Uber (R$6 to R$10). However, buses will only go as far as RodOil gas station, 850m north of Centrinho.

Praia do Rosa Eoxxqg z popgoo Santa Catarina's swankiest seaside destina-

Guarda is home to plenty of charming pousadas and other budget-friendly accommodations. In winter, many shut down completely.

tion, Praia do Rosa is about 15km south of Garopaba. The beach here, all 3km of

tropical folia8e.

sophisticated surf villages.

it, is the stuff of models and photo shoots. It's one of Brazil's storybook destinations, CHALETS3 Zululand backed by small sand dunes and flanked (048 3283-2706: wwwzululand.com.br; Servidio by outcrops oflush Mata Atlantica- Besides Emerenciana Vn; d witfrout air-mn R$290, bungathe stunning beach, Rosa has two things lours with air*on from R$350: ts 6 B ) Owned bv going for it: a cultured, ecoconscious popumodel/actor/surfer Paulo Zulu, Zululand is a lation and waves. It was the latter that procollection of funky-shaped bilevel bungalows pelled the town, which sits high on a bluff well equippedwith tasteful axtard flat-screen above the beach, from a modest fishing TVs, all set about a property flush with lush hamlet in the '7os to one of Brazil's most

313

In wintet the bay

becomes a breeding ground for southern right whales, and mothers and calves can be seen from the beach.

t' a"tiriti""

*Lua Marinha

Norte

Rosa

suRFtNG

(448 99938-8635; www.hcebook.com/escolade surfrosanorte; Estrada Geral do Rosa Norte s/n; S 3/5 classes R$308/460, rental per hour/day R$25l90) This recommended outfitter has year-round surfclasses and surfboard rentals. In summer,

it

also operates direct from the sand on the north end ofthe Praia do Rosa^

Pousada Vida, Sol e

new Centrinho digs, his scrumptious mo4zecas are healthier and lighter than the Bahian version and served in clay cookware.

Mar

wHALEwATcHING

(E

4251; mains for 2 people R$139-264; 96pm-midnight Thu & Fri, from noon Sat & Sun

Rua

6)

Hidden down a pothole-ridden

with raisins and mushrooms) uipiinhas made with ardsanal cachaga. It sits on l-agoa de Ibirapuera,

along with butih

&m & llam)

I.,skm northwesl. of

were leaving whenever whales were spotted.

lH

Sleeping

Paraiso

Hostel

HoSTELS

(D 48 99147-,M56; www.paraisohostelpraiadorosa. com.br; Rua 41803 s/n; dm R$80'90, d with fan R$280; 68) This laid-back hostel is run by Argentine escapees and sits 700m from the beach and 200m from C.entrinho, the cent€r of the village. It's a well-built house with expansive views, though none of the ocean. It sometimes closes from June to August.

*euint"

(848

Bucanero

pousADA$s$ do 3355-6056; www.bucanero.com.br; Es-

trada Geral da Praia do Rosa; r R$861-1268, ste R$198 ; Etr@) Built bedrock-style literally in and around the roclry cliffside, Rosa's

Centrinho. Pura - Cosmic Bar

)(

e"ting & Drinking

*utr"r.

(848

sEAFooD$s

4141-9141; www.fucebook.com/restaurante.

urucum: Av Cenhal Praia do Rosa 100; mains for 2 people R$101-156; &1pm-midnight; Chef Ra-

tr)

fael Miralha hails from Espirito Santo and trained in Southem California before landing in Ros4 hometown recipes in hand. In s$ish

3

!

I= (848 3355-7490; wwwbelezapurabar.com.br; Es- I trada Geralda Praia do Rosa s/n; S8:30pm-3am Fri fl & Sat) A top see-and-be-seen refuge in Praia ; do Ros4 with DJs, live music and miles and ? miles of beautiful people. The owners trave ?

Beleza

.o*

lived in Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires and Europe and have incorporated upscale lounge elements into the experience here. They also have a bar at the beach, Beleza Pura-

@ lnformation There are no banks in Praia do Rosa: Garopaba and lmbituba have the nearest ATMs. Try to find a map - it's a complicated labyrinth of dirt roads layered over various hillsides, most of which eludes Google.

(S Cetting There & Away The bus situation in Praia do Rosa is complicated due to stifling traffic and intermunicipality kansit spats (Praia do Rosa belongs to lmbituba, not Garopaba, but it sits right on the border between the two). ln low season, local buses head to lmbituba every 30 to 45 minutes (R$4.10, lVr hours, 5:50am to l0pm) from a bus stop (E 48 3255-0439;

most charmint option is a l2-room gem of www.santoanjo.com.br) in Cenkinho catercorner hospitaliw in jungly surrounds. Rooms are to Tigre Asietico. ln summer, they leave from a bus dressed in light colors and feature five-star stop (A 48 3255-0439; www.santoanjo.com.br) patios (suites comforts and view-riffic take two blocks southwest near Supermercado Bem

that mantra to stupendous levels).

3

i track that will surely have you believing you i are marching to your demise, you'll find Tbis o running the show at this artisticaly driven ! seafood shac\ the kind of find that postcards ! are written about. Octopus is the specialty ! > (seven-pepper, Apr-Nov;

48 99981-0592; www.vidasolemar.com.br; Estrada Geralda Praia do Rosa; tours R$50-140; Stours

Q Every wintet between July and November, hundreds of southern right wha.les return to the Santa Catarina coast. English-speaking Argentine whale enthusiast Rodrigo Litman has been running ecologicaly sound whale-watching tours with IBF (Instituto Baleia Franca) scientists on board for over a decade. At time of writing boat tours were suspended, but ground tours

sEAFooDSgg

(848 $5a-0613; www.hcebook.com /luamarinha:

Perto. From lmbituba, Santo Anio and Eucatur (www.eucatur.com.br) go to Porto Alegre (from R$76, six hours) up to eight times per day. Buses to Garopaba (R$4.50, 20 minutes), from where you can continue on to Florian6polis (R$2750, two hours) with Santo Anjo (www. santoanio.com,br; Av Paulo Fontes 1101, Terminal Rodovi6rio Rita Maria), leave from the Rodoil (Rua 41251 s/n) gas station, 850m north of Centrinho. 0r you could take an Uber. Off-peak fares run R$25 or so to Garopaba and R$33 to lmbituba.

p 6

_{

-

I/

I

e

)

Rio Grandedo Sul lncludes

I

Porto A|egre................316 Serra Ga0cha.............320 Bento Gongalves........320 Vale dos Vinhedos.......32l

Pinto Bandeira... ........326 Gramad0.................... 326 Cambard do Su1.........328 Litoral Gafcho .........,..331 Torres..........................331 Rio Grande................. 333

I--

Best Places

Why Go? From the forest-covered canyons of the national parks near Cambar6 do Sul, and cascading river valleys near cozy Bra' zilian Alpine villages like Gramado, to the stunning Vale dos Vinhedos, where Italiandescended vintners produce emerging New World wines, Rio Grande do Sul defies stereotypical notions of Brazil. Brazil's southernmost state is its most culturally distinct, home to an independently minded population steeped in cattle herding and cowboy culture. Gailchos, as residents of Rio Grande do Sul are known, are a fiercely proud and tmditional lot. In the countryside, it is not unusual to see old-

timers sporting wide-brimmed hats and other traditional dress. And everywhere - even in the cosmopolitan capital of Porto Alegre - locals suck down chimarrdo, the distinctive, traditional tea made from the mat6 plant.

to Eat r

Valle Rustico (p325)

r Belle du Valais (p328) r Mamma Gema (p324) . Atelier das Massas (p318) o Agridoce Caf6 (p318)

Best Places

to Stay

W'hen to Go Porto Alegre -

30/86

-

m/8-

Parador Casa da Montanha (p330)

+ Pousada Borghetto

-20l500

I

-161400

C

!t! !t!!II I ry ; ? Tl'-

-12/300

-8/200

10/50

.

R.lnflll inches/mh

'Cl'FEnp @/I04

-

,u-'

;

Sant'Anna (p324)

Jan-Mar Hot days

May-Oct Prices

+ Jardim Secreto Pousada (p327)

and cool nights during harvest season in the Vale dos Vinhedos.

are higher, but you mrght see Brazilian snow in Cambar6 do Sul.

+ Vila Ecol6gica (p330)

.

Hostel Britanico (p327)

Dec, Jun & Jul Gramado is in Alpine wonderland mode for Christmas, then again in winter.

315

History Living on land long disputed by the SpanPortuguese, the people of Rio Grande do Sul used the conflict to create an identity distinct from the rest of Brazil.

ish and

The region even declared its independence

during the ill-fated Guerra dos Farrapos, a decade-long civil war ending in 1845. A wave of immigrants, mostly German, Italian and Swiss, began arriving in the late lgth century reinforcing the region's cultural differences.

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los

@

Rio Grande do Sul Highlights O CamUra Ao Sul (p328) grounds of a ruined UnescoPeering over the edges and

wandering through canyons at Parque Nacional da Serra Geral and Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra.

O

Vale dos vinhedos (p321) Tasting your way through this gorgeous emerging wine region.

@ Sao Uiguel Aas missOes (p325) Exploring the stunning

listed Jesuit mission along the Rota Miss6es.

@

Gramado(p326)

Overindulging in fondue and chocolate while exploring the Swiss-style mountain village that rates as Brazil's most cinematic winterscape.

@

ParadorCasada

Montanha (p330) Holing up in tented luxury surrounded

by bucolic countryside

near Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra.

O

Canela (p329)

Gawking at a postcard-

perfect 131m free-falling waterfall at Parque Estadual do Caracol.

O

PortoAlegre(p316)

Drinking your way through Brazil's microbrewerycrazed capital.

3r6 regiona.l artists. On the ground floor, the in-

PORTO ALEGRE

viting Bistrot de MARGS takes advantage

Eloxxst z PoP1.4 MrLLroN On the banks of the huge freshwater lagoa dos Patos, Porto Alegre is southern Brazil's

most important port ciw and a key player in Mercosul (the South American free-trade

f

agreement).

Cisne

The downtown area has benefited from a thoughtful approach to development" including the creation of transportation hubs and the preservation of much of its grand,

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of the leary environment, which is a lovely setting for lunch (R$37.50 to R$76.90).

neoclassical architecture. A long tradition of progressive politics has helped nurture vibrant arts and alternative music scenes, and the well-orBanized gay and lesbian community won the right to register domestic partnerships here long before Brazil legalized gay marriage in 2O13. Unfortunately, crime levels in the ciry are conceming and the downtown area is palpably seedy, even durin8the day, when the ciw has a grittier feel than most southern Brazilian metropolises. Thavelers on foot should take extra care along the Viaduto Otavio Rocha - it tends to be a hangout for riffraff and drug addicts.

Osights Pra{a 15 de Novembro, site of the 1869 Mercado Publico (p3f8), is the centerpiece of the ciw The old building bustles during daytime hours, when vendors sell fresh produce, meats and seafood, as well as the a]limf,Jfiarfi. eraa matd for chimarrAo GEa). Three blocks south, the picturesque

Pra{a da Matriz is dominated by the early 2Oth-century neoclassical Gatedral Met-

ropolita na (www.catedralportoalegre.com.br; Duque de Caxias 1047; STam-7pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat, from &m Sun) EEl. On the northern

side, you'll find the elegant mid-lgth-century

e"tiriti"s & Tours Branco

BoATING

(A5l

3224-5222; wwwbarcocisnebranco.com. br; Av Mau6 1050; R$35-180; 810:45am, 3pm & 4:30pm Mon-Fri, l0:45am & 3pm Sat & Sun) The nicest of the riverboat cruises in Porto Alegre. The White Swan runs hourJong Guaiba river cruises; boats leave from the Usina do Gasometro dock 15 to 20 minutes earlier than here. More lively ll4-hour happy hour cruises sail from April to September (.1,:30pm Sat and Sun) and October to March (daily at 6:30pm) with live music on weekends.

The ticket booth is in the Terminal Hidrovi6rio de Porio Alegre behind the Mercado Publico.

Linha

Turismo

crrYTouR

(www.fucebook.com/portoalegrelravel: Travessa do Carmo84; R$30; S9am-4pmTue-Sun) Runs

9o-minute bus tours of the historic center all.d zona sul (southern zone), which explore the southeastern periphery ofthe ciry (10am to 3pm), beginning from the main stop in Cidade Baixa-

lE

Steeping

Most travelers stay in Cidade Baixa where a hostel and nightlife scene thrive, or the leaff northern districts of Moinhos de Vento, Rio Branco and Bom Fim. HosTErs *Po.to Al"gr" Eco Hostel (851 337-8876; www.poaecohostel.com.br;

Luiz Afonso 276; dm R$,lil, s/d from R$80/145;

86ts)

Down a quiet residential street in

ofthe Teatto Seo Pedro (8513227-

the heart of Cidade Baixa this excellent hos-

5100; www.teatrosaopedro.com.br; Praga Mal De' odoro s/n; &box office l-6:30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun)

tel, chock-full of demolition wood furniture and eco-awareness, has a lovely baclvard garden in a pristine 30s€ra home.

bibliotecapublica.rs.gor.br; cnr Riachuelo & General C6mara; S 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat).

(0

edifice

and the sculpted facade of the Biblioteca Ptblico (851 3224-5045; www.

Museu de Arte do Rio Grande do

Sul

Eko Residence

Hotel

HoTELS

3215-7600; www.facebook.com/ekoresidence; Av Des Andr6 da Rocha 13I s R$li]9-159, d R$14951

164;

ts@68) Q tns

W-apartment hotel

MUSEUM

near Parque Farroupilha has solar-heated

(MARGS; www.margs.rs.gw.br; Pnga da AlftlndeBa; &l0am-TpmTueSun) EEB A p€destrian

showers, a vertical gaxden and rainwater toilets. Rooms are criminally cheap, especially the PIus options, which are far bigger and better than the slightly cheaper studios. Design touches run from house-made lighting to headboards from reclaimed wood.

promenade runs into Pra4a da A]findeg4 the leafy square that is home to the Museu de Arte do Rio Grande do Sul. The neoclassical building is an impressive venue for

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PortoAlegre @ Sights

1 Biblioteca P[rbhco.................. 2 Catedral Metropolitana..-....................... 3 Museu de Arte do Rio Grande

83 83

do Su1..................................................... 82 Sao Pedro............-....................... 83

8 Atelier

das Massas ..c3 8anca40........................................(see10) (see 10) Bar Gambrinus 9 Boteco Nata1icio......................................C4 1O Mercado P0b1ico......................................82

4 Teatro @

Actlvities, Courses & Tours 5 Cisne 8ranco............................................

@ Sleeping 6 Eko Residence Hotel

E

O Drinking & Nightlife B1

C3

Eating 7 Agridoce Caf6.......................................... C4

Hotel

LaghettoViverone

Caf6 do Mercado

(see 10)

O Entertainment 12 Casa da Cultura Nlario Quintana...........A3 @ Shopping

ArteLoja CCMQ...............................(see 12)

com.br; Dr Vale 579; s/d from R$289/319, ste from R$700; B@EE) Porto Alegre's best bou-

with a glass atrium connecting the 132-Buestroom tower to the historic property. Muted gray rooms are modern, minimalist and comfortable, while the three themed suites

tique hotel is built offan exquisite 1937 mansion @ousing the lobby, bar and restaurant)

feature huge mirrors, sink-in bathtubs and unique design (we dig Nuptials and NYC).

(ZSt

2102-7212:

BoUIQUEHoTELS$

www.hotellaghettomoinhos.

318

\

e"ting

*Agridoce

Caf6

cAFEs

(Sarmento Leite 1024; mains R$16-29: 9noon10pm Tue-Sun; Dont judge a cafe by

Etr)

its facade! Enter the fascinating Victorianvintage world ofAgridoce and you'll quickly learn which Southern Brazilian cafe is hoggrng all of the personality. With walls

I

-6 o -

adorned with a dissected chest of drawers, well-traveled suitcases and other retro paraphernali4 each room is a different dive into a kaleidoscope of detail and design.

Beverages (coffee,

te4

beer, wine,

cocktails) are taken very seriously; and the food - lieht bites like desserts, quiches, piz2 zas, sandwiches on artisaral bread, many E' vegan or veg - is topnotch. E E'

o *lt"ti"r at

das (E 5f 325$8888; achuelo

!82;

Massas

trALtANgs

www.atelierdemassas.com.br Ripasta R$30.90-65; Ollam-2:30pm

& 7-ll30pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm &t; E) Crammed o n with as much character as artisanal pasta, --{ o this diveJike pasta bar should go on your im!

mediate todo list - never mind the curmudgm eonly old school servers. There's an irresist-

-a F

m

ible antipasti buffet (per kg R$II5.4,O) and a long list of delectable homemade pastas. Le Grand

Burger

BURGERSii

www.legnndburger.com.br: Marqu6s do Pombal 191; burgea R$33.80-46.90:

&ll:30am-2:30pm & 6-1l30pm Mon-Sat;

It

6tr)

pains us to think a gourmet burger hot spot in the middle of Brazilian beef country needs to import its main ingxedient from the UK but such is ]ife. This whimsical, French-inspired h ambur g.r er i a ansistently takes the city's best burger honors.

The long list of creative burgers (all of which can be made vegetarian, with five vegan choices as well) satiates a beautiful

Moinhos de Vento crowd. Reservations recommended.

Barranco

srEAKSs

www.chunascariabarranco.com. br: Av Protasio Alves 1578: steaks for 2 people R$56-

6) Established in 1969, this always-crowded temple of beef has no cowboy shows or skewers ofspeared meat but it is where locals go for their carne f:x.

74i &llam-zarr.i

Boteco

Natalicio

(E51 3026-5539;

BorEcoss

wwwtucebook.com/boteco

natalicio: Genuino 217; mains

Saturdays bring feij o ad.a (bean-and-meat and

stew; male/female R$4,2.90/39.90) samba - reserve ahead! Mercado

Poblico

(wwwmercadopublim.com.br;

MARKET9g

Galeria Mercado Publi-

co Centrals/n;

I730am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat) Porto Alegre's bustling public maxket has a wealth of eats. Recommended options include Banca 4O (www.banca40.com.br; light bit* &slreeb R$2-24 &&m-7:30pm MonFri,to 6:30pm Sat), home of the incomparable super bomba rogal(ashowy ie cream and fruit salad con-

coction; R$rO; Gambrinus (851 322G6914 www.gambrinus.com.br;; mains R$38-99; 8l1am9pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat), an old-world seafood restauanU and Caf6 Do Mercado (www.cafe domercado.com.bc &&m-730pm Mon-Fri,9:30am5pm Sat), one ofthe city's best cafes.

Q Orinring & Nightlife *Crte Rep0blica Cup (wwwfacebook.com/caferepublica38;

(D51 3395'1520:

Churrascaria (E 51 331-6172;

in some 2oO-odd musings of comedians and locals, and packs in a wild bunch of draft beer-swilling locals, here to preempt the chope (draft beer) with regional delicacies like honey-smoked pork rib sandwiches or crunchy shrimp cubes with coalho cheese.

R$18.90-79.90;

S5pm-lam Mon-Sat; 6) The walls of this lively, bilevel boteco (neighborhood bar) straddling Centro and Odade Baixa are covered

blica 358;

coFFEE

da Rep089am-8pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun; Rua

6) Army-officer-turned-barista Eurico Albrecht maintains an intimate relationship

with his coffee producers; as a result, he chums out what is easily POAb best thirdwave coffee (R$5 to R$24).

*oi*y

otd

Man

BAR

(wwwdirtyoldman.com.br: Lima e Silva 956; 06pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to lam Fri & Sat; 6) This awesomely nam'ed bar (a nod to Bukowski) is Cidade Baixa's best. Dra"ft ales (Baldhead, Malvadez, Bardos) and cool cocktails (R$15 to R$28) fuel the Sood time, while the crowd swilling it down is as eclectic as the environment itself.

f

Bier Markt Vom

Fass

BAR

(www.biermarkt.com.br; Bar6o de Santo Angelo

497; S6-11:30pm Mon-Sat;

6) with its 38

taps and IO0 international labels by the bottle, this Moinhos de Vento drinking den has won the city's Best Beer List honors every year since 2010. There's is a strong emphasis on local breweries - including Seasons, Tirpiniquim and Irmdos Ferraro

-

and the music supervisor unearths some real toe-tapping gems from the '80s you may have forgotten about.

319

CHEERS TO CHIMARRAO It was the indigenous Guarani who taught the Spanish the pleasures of chim arrao (tea from the mat6 plant) and how to sip it - not from a cup but through a bomba (sIraw) stuck into a hollowed-out cuia (gourd). Also known as erya mat6, this tea-like beverage is made from the leaves of the mat6 tree, which is native to the Pampas (grassy plains) that extend from Argentina and Uruguay through southern Brazil. The original garchos. the men who tended the region's vast cattle herds, quickly became addicted to mat6's pleasurable effects, which are at once energizing and calming.ChimarrAo is an acquired taste and a serious addiction, but these days this ancient tradition is getting a boost from scientists and pseudoscientists alike, who make claims about mat6's health benefits, from lower blood pressure to increased intelligence. Hard data has yet to come. Anyone you meet with a gourd (that's nearly everyone!) will offer you some.

Perro Libre Tap

Room

CRAFTBEER

(www.perrolibre.com.brltap-room; Praga Dr Mauricio Cardoso 71; &5pm-midnight Tue-Sat,

@) Perro Libre, one of the South's top breweries, doesn't actually brew here, but this modern, industrial-chic bar inside Casa Prado pumps its 2-10pm Sun;

fresh cerzteja artesanal (craft brew) from an inventive self-serve pay-by-the-millimeter system. Register for a card, Ioad it with credit, and fill up from t0 taps of hoppy IPAs, Gose (a top-fermented beer that originated in Goslar, Germany) with

exotic Amazonian fruits and tonka bean stouts.

Bahamas (www.facebook.com/barcidadebaixa;

GAy

Rua

da

Rep[blica 198; S 6pm-midnight Tue & Wed, to late Thu-Sat,Spm-midnight Sun; @) This down-to-

earth, almost divey boteco (neighborhood bar) is the epicenter of Rua da Repriblica's GLS (Gays, Lesbians and Sympathetics) scene, a great spot to knock back ice-cold

beer or excellent caipirinhas. The party spills well beyond the sidewalk seating, especially on Sundays.

f

entertainment Quintana

Casa da Cultura Mario

(Q51

ctNEMA

3221-7147; www.ccmq.rs.gov.br; Rua dos Andradas 736; S9am-9pm Tue-Fri, from noon

Sat) The

cultural center in this pink ba-

roque building has a cinema (Cinemateca Paulo Amorim; films R$12 to R$r4,), a busy cafe, and a great arts and crafts shop, Arteloja CCMQ. The 7th-floor Caf6 Santo de Casa is a lovely place to listen to live music and watch the sunset over Lagoa dos Patos.

il -E'

@ lnformation

E

Both the municipality and the state have tourist information booths in Porto Alegre, the former at the Mercado Prlblico (Cenho de lnformaEdes Turlsticas; E 51 3211-5705; www2.portoalegre.

E'

rs.gov.brlturismo; Mercado P[blico; 8am6pm Mon-Sat) and the main Linha Turismo bus stop (Centro de Informae6es Turisticas;

o u -+ o

I

E 51 3289-6765; www2.portoalegre.rs.gov.brl turismo; Travessa do Carmo 84; & 8am-6pm); the latter at the airport (Centros de Ateneao ao Turista; U 51 3374-0294; www.turismo.rs.gov. br; Arrivals Hall, Terminal 1, Porto Alegre Airport; SSam-10pm) and the bus station (Centro de Atencio ao Turista; E 51 3225-0677; www. turismo.rs.gov.br; Rodovi6ria; S 8am-6pm).

($ Cetting There

& Away

AIR The city's airport - privatized and renamed Porto Alegre Airport (P0A; E 51 3358-2000; www.

portoalegre-airport.com.br; Av Severo Dulius 90.010) in 2017 - is 6km northeast of downtown, with two terminals connected by a free shuttle. The majority of airlines operate out of Terminal 1, but Azul departs from the older Terminal2. ln addition to major destinations throughout Brazil, international destinations include Buenos Aires, Lima, Montevideo and Panama City. Prepaid Cootaero (Z 51 3358-2500; www. cootaero.com.br; Arrivals Hall, Porto Alegre Airport) taxis from the arrivals hall run R$33 or so to Centro and R$38 or so to Cidade Baixa. An Uber is considerably less. BUS The busy tong-distance bus station (E 51 3210-0101; www.rodoviaria-poa.com.br; Largo Vespasiano Julioveppo 70), 1.5km northeast of Centro, is accessible by metro; alternatively, a taxi downtown costs R$10 to R$20 or so from

o ,

T

-m

a n m

320 the prepaid Ponte do Taxi (E 51 3221-9371; Estag6o RodoviSria de Porto Alegre).

SERRA GAUCHA The scenic stretch of mountains north of Porto Alesre is known as the Serra Gali-

Two day and two overnight buses go to Chul (R$124 to R$175, eight hours) on the Uruguayan border during the week (two less on weekends)

with Planalto (www.planalto.com.br); otherwise, you can connect in Pelotas with Expresso Embaixador (www.expressoembaixador.com.br).

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Buses to Buenos Aires depart at 5pm and 6pm daily: to Montevideo at l0pm daily as well as 8pm on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday, 7pm on Tuesday and 9pm and 9:15pm on Friday and Sunday, respectively; to Santiago, buses depart on Monday at 7:30am. Citral (851 3358-2960; www.citral.tur.br; Arrivals Hall, Porto Alegre Airport) also runs buses to some provincial destinations direct from Porto Alegre Airport.

E,

o @ Cettlng Around o Porto Alegre's metro, Trensurb (www.trensurb. c CD

r z.

-{ o C)

o c) r

cha. The landscape - paxticularly beautiful between Nova Petr6polis and Gramado - is characterized by forested hillsides and unexpected roclqy cliffs, often sparkling with

waterfalls. The region was first populated by Germans Oeginning in 1824,) and later by Italians (beginning in the 1870s), and this heritage is still a source of pride. Although the mountains don't reach much higher than looom, the architecture and atmosphere of Gramado and parts of Canela resemble Swiss villages. In Bento Gongalves and the nearby wine regions of Vale dos Vinhedos and Pinto Bandeira, descendants of Italian immigxants continue fostering momentum rvithin the wine industry.

I

gov.bri one-way R$3.30; 5am-11:25pm), has convenient stations at Estaqlo Mercado (by the port), EstagZo Rodovidria (the next stop) and the airport (three stops beyond). For Cidade Baixa, catch bus T5lT5l /I52lrom the airport or 282,282.1,244,255,272or 343 from the bus station (R$4.30).

Bento Gongalves Eoxxs+

r

PoP1o7,2oo

Considering the region's Italian heritaEe and its dry mountainous landscape, it makes sense that Rio Grande do Sul would be Brazil's wine epicenter. The command post for this burgeoning wine industry is

m

a

BUSES FROM PORTO ALEGRE (RS)

DESTIT{ATION

STARTING FARE

DURATION (HR)

BUS COMPANY

BucnGAit€s

335

2t

Flecha Bus (www.fl echabus.com.ar),

Cambar6 do Sul

46.75

6

Cikal (www.citral.tur.bQ

Canda

3760

3

Cikal

Chul

t24

8

Planalto (www.planalto.com.br)

qrffba

192

13

(Argwrim)

JBL (www.jbhurismo.com.br)

Penha (www.passagempenha.com.br), Catarinense (www.catarinense.net)

Florian6polis

89

6

Santo Anjo (www.santoanjo.com.br),

Gramado

35

3

Cikal

Montevideo (Uruguay)

267

72

TTL (www.ttl.com.br),

Pelotas

6t

3U2

Rio de Janeiro

358.50

26

Rio Grande

77.50

5

Planalto

Santiago (Chile)

486

40

JBL

Sento Angelo

r27

7

Ouro e Prata (www.ouroeprata.com)

Sio Francisco de Paula

28

3

Citral

S5o Paulo

180

19

Penha, Eucatur

Torles

49

3

Unesul (www.unesul.com.br)

Eucatur (www.eucatur.com.br)

EGA

(www.ega.com.uy)

Expresso Embaixador

(www.expressoembaixador.com.br) Penha

321 Bento Gonqalves, l24,km north of porto Alegre, a distinctly indistinct middle-class Brazilian ciff that does not offer much beyond convenient access to the region's vineyards. The entrance to town leaves no doubt about its allegiances: a gigantic

'wine barrel' known as p6rtico da pipa straddles the street.

@ Vale

Tours

dasVinhasTur

(A 54 3451-4216;

wtNE

www,\aledasvinhasturcom.br;

Barao do Rio Branco 2z[5, Hotel Vinocap; half-/fullday tour per person R$[0/230) Vale das Vinhas

runs three-hour tourc that visit three v/ineries in the Vale dos Vinhedos (8:BOam and 1:30pm; minimum two people) as well as a flrllday option that hits up five. It,s located in the lobby of Hotel Vinocap. An English interpreter can be arranged (for a higher cost, of course).

lE

Sheping & Eating

There is little reason to stay in Bento proper,

with beautiful countryside inns just

st€ps away in VaJe dos Vinhedos. It's more conven-

ient however, if you're dependent on public transportation. Hotel

(854

Vinocap

BUStNEssHorEL8g

3455-7100; wwwvinocap.com.br; Bario do Rio Branco 245; s/d from R$189/288; A@E)

This agreeable, centrally located business hotel is well equipped for wine tourism.

*CantaMariaGastronomia trALtANsg (ES+ 3702-3099; www.facebook.com/pgl cantamariagastronomia; Parnaiba Tl7; buffut R$53.80-87; &11:30am-3pm & 7-1lpm Tue-Sun;

tr)

Occupying a lovely residential home in Planato near Igreja 56o Bento, this is the b€st of the restaurants specializing in the cornida tipica italiana blffel: capeletti (meat-filled pasta) soup, salaA,past4 galeto (rotisserie spring chicken), lineruiga (gaxliclg pork sausage), pork ribs, polenta and fried cheese. Shhhh..just don'ttell the owner's brother, who owrs the orDer good one!

@ lnformation Pick up a must-have Vale dos Vinhedos map at one of two tourist information booths in Bento Gongalves. Caminhos de Pedra (Centro de Atendmiento ao Turista; 854 3455-6333; www.

caminhosdepedra.org.br; Estrada Barracdo 60O, Barracio; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun) also runs a tourist info booth.

I

C.A,T. (Cenho de Atendmiento ao Turista; 854 3453-6699, 0800-603-6060; www.bento goncalves.rs.gov.br; Marechal Deodoro 70; 88am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) C,A.T. (Centro de Atendmiento ao Turista; E 0800-603-606, 3453-2555: www.bento goncalves.rs.gov.br; Travessa Carazinho s/n, P6rtico da Pipa; 98am-5:30pm Mon-Fri,9am5pm Sat & Sun)

@ Cetting There & Away The long-distance bus

station

(p 543452-

www.rodoviariabento.com.br; Gomes Carneiro 19) is about lkm north of the center. Bento (E 54 3452-1311; www.bentotrans portes.com.br; Gomes Carneiro 19, Estagao Rodovi6ria de Bento Goncalves) has hourly service to Porto Alegre (from Rg34,2yz hours); for Caxias do Sul (R$9.70,lVr hours), 0zelami 1311;

(454

3452-3777; www.ozelame.com.br; Gomes Carneiro 19, Estagio Rodovidria de Bento Goncalves) departs hourly as well. For Canela, Gramado or Cambard do Sul, connect in Caxias. Unesul (E 54 3452-2917; www. unesul.com.br; Gomes Carneiro 19, Estagio Rodovi6ria de Bento Goncalves) has at least two daily buses to Santo Angelo (R$121.60,7y2 hours, 2pm and 8pm). For Vale dos Vinhedos, Transportes Monte Bello (E 54 3457-1100: http://montebetotur. wixsite.com/montebeloturismo) can get you onto Via Trento four times a day (R$4.50. 30 minutes, 6:30am, 10:25am,4:25pm and 6:10pm) from a stop along Av 0svaldo Aranha in front of Salini Vefculos, l00m or so from the bus station. But renting your own vehicle, a local tour or an Uber (R$20 or so to Alma0nica, R$25 or so to Miolo) are best.

Vale dosVinhedos When connoisseurs debate world-class wine production, Brazil isn't usually the first country that comes to mind. Discerning palates, however, are starting to rave about the outstanding vintages of southern Brazil. The award-winning sparkling wines, cabernets and chardonnays fermented

in the Vale dos Vinhedos are the

result of generations of hard work and innovation - particularly by Italian fami-

lies that immigrated to the region starting in the l870s - as well as excellent soil and growing conditions. Now, nearly 150 years later, the awards have finally started to roll in. In 2O13, the Vale dos Vinhedos was even named one of the year's l0 Best Wine Tlavel Destinations by Wine Enthusiast magazine. Brazilian wine has arrived.

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Vale dos

Vinhedos

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Today, Brazil ranks l4th in the world in vinifera wine production (falling between Romania and Hungary), the lion's share

coming from Rio Grande do Sul. The Vale dos Vinhedos welcomes hundreds of thousands of visitors to more than 3O wineries, rural inns and restaurants along the Estrada do Vinho and Via Trento, a picturesque loop that stretches west of Bento Gongalves. Visually speaking, the whole valley will leave you rubbing your eyes to triple-confirm you have not been suddenly teleported to France, ltaly or northern California.

LA

VinicolaAlmarflnica

CA

AlmaInica (1254 3459-1384; www.almaunica. com.br; RS-444, Km 17.35; tastings 6/12 wlnes R$50/90; #8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) is one of the region's

trB

4

most awarded vineyards, and the syrahs and Quatro Castas blends are topnotch. The friendly owner is often in the tasting room, happily serving glasses over gorgeous vineyard views.

CasaValduga One of Brazilian wine's big guns,

Valduga (854

2105-3154; www.casavalduga.

com.br; Via Trento 2355; tasting & tour R$40; (}9:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) has Rg20

tastings (five wines) in its wine shop or tastinB-and-tour combos almost hourly from 9:30am to 4:30pm (to 3:30pm Sunday have the most impressive vineyard views.

VinicolaMiolo Sparkling wines, cabernet sauvignon and merlot are the specialties at Vinicola Maolo (fJl54 2102-1540; www.miolo.com.br; Estrada do Vinho, Km 21; tour & tastings standardlpremium R$30/R$90; &9am-4:30pm).

The huge complex spreads out from an artificial lake and guided tours are run hourly. If you want to taste without doing the tour, your only option is the Rg60 premium tasting (five wines).

.FP,y

6jli

324 PARADISE LOST

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0

o v, c

-m

o o (, z

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ln 16O8, the governor of the Spanish province of Paraguay ordered the local Jesuit leader, Fray Diego de Torres, to convert the local Tupi and Guarani people. The Jesuits established missions across a vast region that encompassed much of southern Brazil, as well as portions of southern Paraguay and northern Argentina. Unlike their brethren elsewhere in the Americas, the Jesuits made a concerted effort to convert the indigenous people without destroying their culture or language. The missions became centers of culture and intellect, as well as religion. The arts flourished, combining elements of European and Guarani music and painting. Scholars created a written form of the Tupi-Guarani language and, beginning in 1704, published several works, using one of South America's earliest printing presses. The missions produced sophisticated sculpture, metallurgy, ceramics and musical instruments. ln an age of monarchies and institutionalized slavery, the missions were an island of idealism, where wealth was divided equitably,

and religion, intellect and arts were cultivated in tandem. From the beginning, the missions faced threats from the outside world' ln the 1620s they were harassed by Portuguese b andeirantes, bands of Paulistas who raided the interior in search of gold and indigenous people to enslave. Thousands of people were captured, and the 13 missions of Guayra (present-day Parane) were eventually abandoned. Beginning in the 1630s, the Jesults consolidated their position in 30 sites across the northwest corner of present-day Rio Grande do Sul, as well as in Argentina and Paraguay. To a large part, it was the success of the missions that brought about their downfall. The independent-minded Jesuits became an embarrassment to Rome and to the Spantsh and Portuguese kings. ln 1750. the Treaty of Madrid dictated that the sites be handed over to Portuguese rule, which would not protect the local population from enslavement The Guarani were commanded to evacuate in 1754, but they refused to abandon their settlements and thus incited the Guarani War, ln 1756, a combined Spanish-Portuguese army attacked the missions, killing more than 15oo Guaranis and selling many more into slavery, thus decimating the Guarani population. lt was a tragic, bloody end to an amazing social experiment The missions were lauded by great thinkers from Voltaire to lvlontesquaeu as a real incarnation of christian utopia, which was destroyed by the very forces that created it. Robert De Niro and Jeremy lrons relive this story in the 1986 film fhe Mlsslon. a moving, fictional account of these events. Today, all 30 missions are in ruins. Together, they form the Rota Miss6es (www. rotamissoes.com.br), or'Missions Route,'a network of pilgrimage sites for the faithful and the curious. Seven are in Brazil (in the northwestern part of Rio Grande do Sul), eight are in southern Paraguay and 15 are in northeastern Argentina.

lI

*Pousada Borghetto

SantAnna

PousADA9SS

(E 54 3453-2355;

wwwbotghettosantanna.com.br; Linha Leopoldina 868; ste R$480, cottages R$55O

600;

Etr)

explosive, unobstructed views of the surrounding vineyards. Perched on a hill in front of Vinlcola Miolo, you can't miss the living postcard, from the pool and winebarrel hot tub to the upscale restaurant.

its

Sleeping & Eating

Perched above the Vale dos Vin-

*Mamma

Gema

rTALrANgg

hedos, this cluster of romantic stone houses gives a fantastic view ofthe valley below. The

5a 3459-1392; www.mammagema'com.br; Estrada RS-444, Km 18.9: mains for 2 people R$92-

lodgings mix rustic charm with sumptuous comfort and unobtrusive constmction, right down to large portions of sedentary rock in the showeE. Br€aldastis simple, buttheviews make up for it. It's about 4km west ofBento.

trattorias in the region, Mamma focuses on quality, not quantity, and is a mainstay in VaIe dos Vinhedos. The owner, a former professional footballer, harvests his own

Hotel Spa do

Vinho

HoTELsss

(@54 2102-7200; www.marriott.com.br; RS-444, Km 2l; r/ste from R$390/667; ts@68) The region's largest hotel takes top honors for

(E

135; Ollam-4pmTue-Sun)

Unlike many of the

wild mushrooms for use in perfectly

exe-

cuted pa.sta and risotto dishes. At night, all eyes turn to the downstairs pizrct'rq Pizza Entre Vinhos (pizzas R$82-87;

325

The small, pleasant city of Santo Angelo is the regional transportation hub and jumping off point for exploring the Brazilian missions. The impressive cathedrat (wwwdiocese desantoangelo.org; Praga da Catedral; E hours vary) is a 1929 replica of the church at Sao Miguel das Miss6es and casts a gorgeous rust-orange glow over the center of town at sunrise. From here you can organize tours with Caminho das Miss6es (8553312-9632;www. caminhodasmissoes.com.br; Antunes Ribas 984; S&m-noon & l-6pm Mon-Fri, gam-noon Sat) or Marino Theobald (855 99961-3826; [email protected]; per site R$60-g0) or, ideally, rent your own vehicle - try Pontual (855 3313-6000; wwwpontualautolocadora.com. br; Marqu6s do Herval 1845; per day from R$95; &8:30am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri,9am-noon Sat). The most striking of the missions is sitio Arqueol6gico sdo Miguel Arcanjo (adult/ child R$14lZ incl Museu das Miss6es: Sgam-noon & 2-8pm Oct-Mar, 9am-noon & 2-6pmTue-Sun, 1:30-6pm Mon Apr-Sep) in Sllo Miguel das Miss6es, 53km southwest of Santo Angelo. The elegant church, designed by an ltalian architect who was also a Jesuit frivale ar, earned Unesco world Heritage status in 1984. lt is surrounded by the mystical ruins of the Jesuit settlement, which evokes the feeling of 'paradise losil on a beautiful day, snapping pics will drain your iPhone battery. The archaeological site also includes the excellent litile Museu

das Miss6es

(www.museudasmissoes.blogspot.com;

Sitio Arqueol6gico Sio Miguel Arcanjo;

adulVchildR$l4,zZ incl Sio MiguelArcanio; Egam-noon & 2-8pm Oct-Mar, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Sun, 1:30-6pm Mon Apr-Sep). Designed by L0cio Costa, of Brasilia fame, the museum contains an impressive collection of religious artifacts that were rescued from the ruins. A spectacular, if campy, sound-and-light show illustrates the history of the missions. Additional ruined missions in the region worth visiting include Sio Jo6o Batista (Map p74 Entre-liuis; 99am-5pm) GGEE, Santuiirio de Caa16 (85599681-4506; Caibat6; &8-lt30am & l:30-6pm Mon-Fri, or by appt) Sao Lourengo Miirtir (56o Luiz Gonzaga: & 7am-noon & t30-7pm) Ef,EB and S5o Nicotau (SIo Nicotau; e24h0 E@. From Santo Angelo, Unesul (855 3313-2618; www.unesul.com.br: Sete povos das MissOes s/n, Rodovieria de Santo Angelo) has two buses to Bento Gonqalves (R$132, 7% hours, 2pm and 8pm; 2pm only on Saturday). Ouro e Prata (80800-51-8666;www.viacaoouroeprata. com.br; Sete Povos das MissOes s/n, RodoviSria de Santo Angelo) buses run frequenfly between Santo Angelo and Porto Alegre (from R$149, seven houis, up to 10 per day). Antonello Turismo (855 99632-3075; Sete povos das Miss6es s/n, Rodovi5ria de Santo Angelo) has four daily buses to 56o Miguel das Miss6es (Rg13.25, l14 hours, gam, Llam, 3:30pm and 6:20pm) Monday to Friday, two on Saturday (10am,3:30pm) and two on Sunday (9:30am,6:20pm).

EB,

-

S7-10:30pmTue-Sat;

6),

where the besr pizza

in the region is served alongside the best

se-

lection of Vale dos Mnhedos wines.

*V"lt. Rustico

(854

BRAZIIAN $9$

98123-0080;

www.vallerustico.com.br; Linha Marcilio Dias,15 da Graciema; prix-fixe 7/10 courses R$130/210; &7:30-10pm Thu-Sat, noon-

3:30pm Sun: @)

y'

Wine countn/s best res-

taurant sits down a lonely and dark Vale dos Vinhedos dirt road - don't worry, it's

open - where you'll find a wood-beamed dining room in the basement of a house

and a lovely patio. Local chef Rodrigo Bellora has a seasonal surprise menu (organic where possible) that changes weekly, plus an impressive local wine list.

(p lnformation C.A.T. - Aprovale (Associag6o dos Produtores de Vinhos Finos do Vale dos Vinhedos; Z 54 3451-9601; www.valedosvinhedos.com. br; D6vile Sandrin 525; E9am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm & 1:30-4pm Sat & Sun) At the main gateway to Vale dos Vinhedos, the valley's member-only wine-growers associ. ation runs a helpful tourist info office. Many of the best wineries, including Miolo (p323), Valduga (p323) and Almarinica (p323), are members. They sell wine as well.

($ Cetting There & Away For information on getting to and around Vale Dos Vinhedos, see the Bento Gonqalves Getting There & Away section (p321).

il -I

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326

Gramado

Pinto Bandeira Sleepy Pinto Bandeir4 just 15km northeast of Bento Gongalves, is a sepaxate wine ap pellation from the more establishedVale dos Vinhedos and has soil more suited for sparkling wines. It has its own share of charming places to sleep and taste. For more information on Pinto Bandeira see www.asprovinho.com.br.

@

lu-

Don

-

sigtrts

Giovanni

wINERY

(854 345$6293; wwwdongiounni.com.br;

Linha

o F

Amadeu, Km 12: tastings R$25; 99'lt30am & 1-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5:30pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Both a winery and a homey pousada (Linha

E

Don Gio-

Amadeu, Km 12; r R$u150_700: E6) o vanni is a one-stop shop in Pinto Bandeirao c It's most famous for sparkling wines (the

T'

tasting fee works as a credit toward pur-

z. chases). --t

o r,

z.

o m u

Vinicola

(AU

WINERY

www.vinicolageisse.com.br;

Linha Jansen s/n; tastings R$30-80: &9-ll:30am & 1-5pm Mon-Fri,10am'5pm Sat,10am-4pm Sun)

Founded

by famed

Chilean winemaker

Mario Geisse, Cave Geisse produces Brazil's most int€rnationdly heralded sparkling wines and is a cult favorite abroad. Reservations are best.

)( Casa

(454

e"ting Vanni

tTALtANSg

3455'6383; www.casavanni.com.br; Linha

Palmero z[4; mains R$41'76; Snoon-3:30pm Thu-

6)

Around 6km southeast of the Pinto Bandeira turnoff along the Caminho das Pedras, this historig cinematic wooden house dates to 1935 and is considered one of the top dining destinations near Pinto. The chef trained for three years in Italy's Piedmont region and does a fine job fusing her skills with homespun recipes, like corne de parula (stewed beef) risotio, in a cinematic stone cellar.

Tue;

Brazil.

@ Lago

Geisse

U55-746I

Aoxxsq t PoP32.2oo Gramado isdt as serry as Ipanema or as alIuring as the Amazon, but this tiny mountain resort, which bills itself as'naturally Europeanj is one of Brazil's nicest. It does indeed feel like a Swiss mountain village boutiques sell avant-garde glasswork and gourrnet chocolate, local restaurants specialize in fondue, hotels are decked out like swiss chalets while the infrastructure, safety and scenery all meet the standards of similar-sized towns in North America or Europe (pedestrian crosswalks are respectedl). At times the Alpine vibe crosses over into kitsch, but this chocolate fantasyland is pleasan! and the standaxd of living in this little piece of paradise is unparalleled in

(S Cettlng There & Away Bento (p321) services Pinto Bandeira four times a day (R$10, one hour, 10:30am, noon, 4:30pm and 5:45pm), passing the turnoffs for many of the wineries. An Uber to Vinicola Geisse from central Bento Gongalves is around R$35 off-peak.

sigtrts & Activities Negro

LAKE

s/n) About 1.5km southwest of the center, Lago Negxo is an attrirctive artificial lake surrounded by hydrangeas and crowd-

(Renner

ed

with swan boats.

Snowland

sNowsPoRTS

(D54 3295-6000;

www.snowland.com'brl RS235 9009; adulVchild R$169/139; &10am-5pm)

Latin America's first snow par\ opened in wint€r wonderland with skiing, snowboarding, tubing and ice skat-

2O13, is an axtificial

ing, as well as bars and restaurants. It's 6km west of Centro.

*d

festivals & Events

Festival de

Gramado

FILM

(www.festivaldegramado.net Av Borges de Medeiros 2692 Paldcio dos Festivais; tickets R$40-140)

In August, Gramado hosts the eight-day

Fes-

tival de Gramado, Brazil's most prestigious film festiva.l. Natal

Luz

(www.natalluzdegramado.com.br;

CHRISTMAS

I

late Oct-mid-

Jan) Gramado goes Christmas crazy

for this

annual holiday festival, the largest in Brazil and one of the longest such events in the

world (it goes for for nearly three months). It draws 1.5 million people to the city annually. Expect floating light shows, circus acts, Christmas-tree lighting competitions, parades and classical music concerts, among other St Nick-related celebrations.

327

Gramado

t0g

\

]Iountain

v Parque

-O.2rdl6 KIorr -4OOm RBE\A

F

\

5 o u 2 tr,

tn E'

Vale

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Gramado

ll

Sleeping *Hostel Britanico

HosTEL$

(854

3286-6250; www.britanico.com; Arthur Rel; dm R$59, d/q R$199/399; This outstanding choice - call it a'poshtel' - is an imann

EE)

eight-minute stroll from central Gramado on the road to Canela. Dorms are ofa craftsmanship previously unseen in Brazil, with reading lights, electricity outlets and privacy curtains (there are even a few double-bed dorms for you and yours); private rooms and common areas are better than manv hotels. English-spoken. Hostel Chocolatch6 HosTELs (E 54 99633-1795; www.hostelchocolatche.com; Av Borges de Medeiros 2889; dm from R$65, s,zd with-

@ Sleeping

1 Hostel Britantco....................................

D1

2 Hostel

Choco|atch6.............................. B1 3 Jardim Secreto Pousada.....................A3

gEating 4 5

6

Belle du valais ......82 Per Voi....................................................82 Trattoria Boniatto.................................A3

O Drinking & Niahtlife 7 Taberna MF............................................

8 White

*JaraimSecretoPousada

(454

B1

F1yPub.........................................81

3286-2023;

pousADAs$s

www.pousadajardimsecreto.

AE)

out bathroom R$18V198, with bathroom R$182/260;

com.br; F G Bier 110; r from R$512:

Atr) A once

mostly English-speaking sibling threesome runs this triumphantly lovely pousada just 800m from the main square. Extensive gardens surround the property, which is dotted with gnomes, birdhouses and other rustic-chic knickknacks. If there's a downside, it's the four- to five-night minimums in high season (and tlvo-night weekend minimums otherwise).

stale, institutiona.lized choice behind the hallowed halls of the town's Methodist church has been given a major makeover by snazzy new owner Raquel, whose cleverness extends right down to the name - the phonetic spelling of how Brazilians pronounce'chocolate.' Big, industrial-style bathrooms remain, but new beds and ajazzy

lounge and kitchen with a wood-burning stove equal backpacker salvation.

A

328

)(

e"ting

*Trattoria

(854

Boniatto

rTALrANis

3286-7005; www.tucebook.com/trattoria

boniatto; Av das Hort0nsias 1160; pasta for 2 people

R$80-135;

6)

An accommodating family -

mom, dad and daughter descended Brazilians

- of Genova-

run this

homespun

trattoria- Classic sauces (pesto, carbonara, bolognese) alongside

their own

creations

like the exceuent four-cheese with filet mignon (or mushrooms) are served on the ta-

ll 2 0 n

ble in cast-iron cookware.

*

Per

Voi

TTALTAN

s$

(854 3286-0803;

www.pervoigramado.com.br; Av das Hort€nsias 1511; buffet R$85, pastas R$52-58; Snoon-3pm & 7-llpm Tue-Sun; E) Per Voi isn

t

Gramado's most famous restaurant speo cializing in the Italian-gailcho lradition of art (rotisserie c bottomless capektti sortp, galetopasta dishspring chicken), and a series of 6) es, but it is the best and most welcoming. n Topnotch servers and a charismatic owner strive to ensure an intimate Italian restauI rant ambience; the house-made pasta seals E'

o

the deal.

Valais

swtssiS8 Belle du 3286'l7M; www.belleduvalais.com.br; Av

(Ail

das Hort0nsias 1432; mains R$94'156, fondue for 2 people R$198-230; &7pm-midnight; Fondue

6)

is as common as the cold in Gramado, but this old school-elegant hot spot is considered one of Brazil's best, The menu is rounded out by filets cooked on volcanic rocks and a wealth of impressive meat and fish preparations. Pair your meal with one of the local wines, including Lidio Carraro, P:zzatfi and

Almafnica Reserve.

!

f

orinring & Nightlife wnite Fty Pub

cRAFTBEER

Medeiros

3l€;

E) This 15-tap

new-

(www.whitefly.beer; Borges S5pm-12:45am Tue-Sat;

de

comer is run by a couple of welcoming young brewers who are often behind the bar. Their own brews, made in Porto Alegre, are great, and they put in a valiant effort to

ring in craft beers from all over Brazil. The modern bar atmosphere is Gramado's best.

*Taberna

MF

(www.facebook.com/legadoMF;

MTcRoBREWERY

Salgado Filho 170;

&6-11:30pm Sun-Fri, from 5pm Sat;

6)

Yes, the

'MF' stands for'Motherfucker' (we asked!). As if that's not reason enough to pop in, you'll find 50 taps of craft beer here - the

most we have seen in Brazil - including a of Belgian-style and barrel-aged ales, numerous hop-heaw IPAs ard

concentration

DIPAs, and plenty of stouts and porters. The

unwillingness

to offer

samples aside, it's

beervana.

Q lnformation Gramado's excellenttorrist ofiice (Centro de Atendimento ao Turista; E 54 3286-1475: www. gramado.rs.gov.br; Av Borges de Medeiros 1675: S9am-7pm) sits smack dab in the middle of town.

{$ Cetting There & Away From the bus statlon (E 54 3286-1302; Av Borges de Medeiros 2100), Citral (p329) runs buses all day to Porto Alegre (from R$46.90, 2ll! hours) and Canela (from R$4.05,20 minutes). There are also at least 11 daily buses to Caxias do Sul (from R$1775, two hours).

CAMBARA DO SUL @oxxsq

t

PoP6500

Cambard do Sul is a dusty frontier town built on cattle ranching with an authettic galicho aura. Iocated t86km northeast of Porto Alegre, it serves as a base for both Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra and Parque Nacional da Serra Geral, the national parks that are somewhat ambitiously described as the'Brazilian Grand Canyonl At an altitude of l0oom, Cambard receives more snowfall than any other destination in Rio Grande do Sul, making it a

popular destination during winter months (May to October), when prices are higher. Cambar6 do Sul claims to be the'capital ofhoneyl and you can sample this local delicacy all over town.

O

s:gtrts *P"rqr" Nacional Aparados da

de

Serra

cANYoN

(A5$251-1227 ;wwl.icmbio. gov.brlparnaaparados daserra/guia-do-visitante.html; RS-429, Km 18; Brazilian/foreigner R$25l45; & 8am-6pm Tue-Sun) located ISkm southeast of Cambar6 do Sul, this magnificent park occupies 102.5 sq km on the border between Rio Grande do Sul

and Santa Catarina. It's here that vast, uninspired pasturelands give way to a series of stunning canyons, where the earth opens up and drops to depths of 72Om. The park preserves one of the countfy's last araucdria (Paran6 pine) forests, earn-

325 CANELA & PARQUE ESTADUAL DO CARACOL While lacking Gramado's sophistication, neighboring Canela has a small-town charm of its own. Around a leafy green square, the village center is lined with shops and cafes and is anchored at one end by the impressive Gothic Catedral de Pedra (Catedral Nossa Senhora de Lourdes; Praga da Matriz 69; 98:30-11:30am & 1:30-5:30pm). Canela offers cheaper accommodations and more convenient access to the state parks, which are popular hiking spots. The major attraction near town is the Parque Estadual do Caracol (E 54 3278-3035;wwwcanela.com.brlparque-do-caracol; RS-466, Km 0; adult,zchild R$20110; 89am5:30pm), 7km northeast of Canela, and its spectacular Cascata do Caracol, a 131m

waterfall. For tourist information, stop by C.l.T. (Central de lnformag6es Turisticas; 3282-2200:vtww.canela.com.br; LargodaFamaTT; SSam-7pm) in central Canela.

854

Gitral (Z 54 3282-1185; www.citral.tur.br; Danton Con6a da Silva 630, EstaESo Rodovi6ria de Canela) runs buses tolfrom Gramado every 20 minutes (from R$4.O5,20 minutes,sam to 11:30pm). Ozelame (E 54 3228-4088; www.ozelame.com.br; Danton Corrda da Silva 630, Estaqio Rodovii4ria de Canela) buses go to S5o Francisco de Paula every two hours or so (from R$10.25, one hour, Sam to 7:30pm), where you can connect to CambarS do Sul (R$19.45, one hour); and nine buses per day to Caxias do Sul (from R$19.45, two hours), where you can connect to Bento Gongalves (R$9.70,1% hours, hourly). Frequent buses go to Porto Alegre (from R$35.45,2% hours). Viagio Canelense (@543282-2326; Danton Corr0a da Silva 630, Estagio Rodovi5ria de Canela) operates three buses a day from outside the bus station to and from Parque Estadual do Caracol (R$3.50,20 minutes).

ing it its protected status. But the main attraction is the Cinion do ltaimbezinho,

a narroq 5800m-long canyon with sheer parallel escarpments, ranging from 600m to 72Om. TWo waterfalls drop into this incision in the earth, which was formed by the BJo Perdizb rush to the seaThree trails wind through the park Trilha do V6rtice runs for 2km to an observation point for the canyon and the Cascata do Andorinhas. Trilha Cotovelo is a 3km trail (2ll hours round-trip) passingbytheV€u de Noiva waterfall, with wondernil vistas of the canyon. For a completely different perspective, Trilha do Rio do Boi follows the base of the canyon for ?km, from the Posto Rio do Boi entrance. This last route is most easily accessed from the town of Praia Grande in Santa Catarina. A professional guide is required for the challenging, loose, rocky trail. During rainy season it is closed because of the danger of flooding. There is a visitors' center (S8am-6pmTueSun) at Itaimbezinho with information on flor4 fauna and topography in Portuguese only.

f

Pu.qr" Nacional da Serra Geral

ctryoH 3251:1277: www.icmbio.gov.brl$ortalzlisita caol/unidades-abertas-a-visitacao/730-parque-

(454

nacional-da-serra-geral.html; RS-429, Km 18;

& &m-

6pm) EEB Parque Nacional da Sen-a Geral, 23km east of Cambar6 do Sul, contains canyons that rival Itaimbezinho. The C6nion da

Fortaleza is an 8km stretch of escaxpment with 900m drops. A gently inclining Trilha do Mirante leads about ?km to the edge of the canyon, yielding incredible views ofthe Cachoeira do Tigre Preto waterfall.

The Pedra do Segredo is a tower of rocks that balances precariously on this precipice. Ginion Malacara is formed by the river of the same name; the Trilha Piscina do Malacara leads to a natural pool with cool, crystal waters and wonderful views.

@ tours

f

Turismo

C6nion 3251-1027;

(454

HTKTNG,ADVENTURETouR

wwwcanionturismo.com.br;

y'

Get0lio Vargas 876; &&m-7pm) Pop into this excellent agency and check out the scale model of the canyons for a much-needed perspective of the area (R$7). Guided treks like Tlilha do Rio do Boi are around R$Sll for one person, dropping to R$I79 per person for a group of 1O people. It also arranges recommended one- or three-hour horseback riding excursions on surrounding fazendas (ranches) for R$92 to R$203.

f

Aparados da Serra

(p

Adventure

HrKlNG,ouToooRs

54 99984-5766; www.aparadosdaserraadventure.

com.br; Rua da Tradieao

former mastermind

$;

of

&&m-8pm) The Cdaion T\rrismo

(Cambar63 other great ecotourism agency),

o = 6,

-

E,

trt E'

o o c C) (E =

fr 0

o U)

c

-

330 friendly Josemar has branched out on his own and arTanges a wealth of recommended ecominded excursions in the surrounding canyons, including four-hour horseback trips to CAnion Pedra do Se8redo (R$f90), halfday mountain-bike jaunts (R$130) and threeday, 62km treks to CAnion Josafaz (R$1200 allinclusive for up to four people).

lQ

Sleeping

Pousada

(A54

IIo

Oliveira

PousADA$

-,> z E

r E, o aD

c F

C)

pensive has outdoor fireplaces and patio whirlpool bathtubs. There's a lovely gourrnet restaurant dishing up lamb, duck and troutheaw mains (R$40 to R$80). It's one of Brazil's most unique accommodations.

3251-1544t www.pousadaoliveiralur.br; RSA sod 020 1zl8; s R$90-u0, d R$150-180;

)( r"tng

deal for budget travelers, these bright-green A-frame cabins (two with fireplaces) evoke a morelocal feelthan elsewhere and are aswelmming as can be for the price, featuring traditional wooden accents (we prcfer the back ones facing lhe araucdrta forest). There's a rustic communal kitchen with wagon-wheel tables, too. Itt 80Om or so southwest oftown.

GalpSo

BB)

IG'

and a rushing waterfall, Brazil's only heated, elevated tents are perched amid postcardenvy scenery and combine creature comforts with rusticiw to supremely tranquil effects. The cheapest option features luxurious shared shower facilities while the most ex-

*Vila Ecol6gica

PousADA$g

(D54 98U1-U75; www.vilaecologica.blogspot. n com.br; Jo6o Pazz:l,lffi: r R$200-250: A@6)

Costaneira

BUFFETS

&[:30am3pm & 7:20-10:30pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun; E ) A hearty local buffet served in a rustic farmhouse setting. It's best when you choose tabletop-cooked picanha (beef), spicy linguiga and colonial cheese - that is, ifyou've got any room left over after sampling the various specialties warmed over an open (Dona Ursula 1069; buffet R$29-rA;

flame.

@

y'

o o

Vila Ecot6gica sits colorfully but most ordinarily on a hill behind Casa do Turista.

C

You wouldn't look twice. But closer inspection reveals Cambara's gxeat-value hospi-

-

ta-lity option. Rooms are equipped with heaters/air-con and cable TV and were constructed from ecologically sawy materials. Eco-touches abound - like old tennis shoes as planters - and friendly, English-speaking Erica handles everything. Pousada

(854

Corucacas

PousAoASS

99618-6806;

RS-020, Km

l;

www.corucacas.com.br; camping per person R$20, r per

person incl breakfust & dinner R$150, s/d cabani

R$190/350;

6 ) About lkm north of town on

the road to Ouro Verde, this working farm has rustic rooms and a big-sky setting, flush with duck-filled lakes and sheep-grazed

farmland with araucdria trees. Endless opportunities for horseback riding and hiking are just out the back door, and a fireplace heats up the common room in the evening. Tko newly constructed cabands face bucolic pasturelands.

f Parador Casa da Montanha (Ail 385-7575; www.paradorcasadamontanha.

f

Restaurante do

Lago

sEAFooogs

E

5499975-5553; wwwjacebook.com/Restaurante DoLagoCambara; Estrada do Faxinal, RS427; meals R$51; Sllam-3pm & 7-11pm; Chef Marcos (

6)

Barberi pumps a ton of personality into his restaurant with a rustic, fireplace-warmed space firll of antique fumiture, mlorful knickknacks and friendly demeanor. The speciality is fresh trout, prepared traditionally (mcunidre, passion fruit sauce) or in the house sryle (with mushrooms, cream cheese, capers, raisins and nuts), and served alongside aligot (a fondulike cheese and potato dish) or rdsti (grated fried potatoes).

*Galeteria

CasarSo

O BUFFETS$ 3251-1711; www.galeteriaocasarao.com. br; JoSo Francisco Ritter 969; buflet R$43.5071.50; S11:30am-3pm & 6:30-10pm Tue-Sat)

(454

Set among homey hardwoods, this excel-

lent restaurant serves the comfort food of Brazil's Italian immigrants. A buffet of organic salads, house-made pastas and soups accompanies house-specialff galeto

(rotisserie spring chicken) or 12 types of farmed trout. Local wines and. grappas are served as well.

LoDGESSS

com.brt Estrada do Faxinal, RS-429; d incl afternoon tea R$450-2500; @ 6 ) Midway between Carn-

bar6 and Itaimbezinlo, the poshest place in the region is modeled after luxurious African safari camps. Overlooking araucdria forest

!

orinring & Nighttife

Miichina da

Tempo

BAR

(www.facebook.com/maquinadotempopub; Don6 0rsula 574; &7-10pm Sun-Fri, to midnight Sat;

6)

Folks of a certain age will love this

'8os-themed bar with cassette-tape napkin holders, floppy-disc coasters and a very young'Steven'Jobs on the TV explaining the Apple IIe computer (younger folks will just gawk in amusement). 'Tch6' and Patricia heard up to 30 t}?es of bottled regional craft beer and there's local Grota Bier on tap. There's live rock on Saturday nights and no

wi-fi - just like the'80s!

S

lnformation

The Gasa do Turista (www.cambaradosul. rs.gov.br; Av Gettlio Vargas 1720; & 8am-6pm) is at the far end of town on the road to Fortaleza.

@ Cetting There & Away The tiny bus station (E 54 3251-1567; Dona Ursula s/n) is right in town, though rarely staffed. Citral (www.citral.tur.br; Dona Ursula s/n, Estagio Rodovi6ria) offers one bus from Porto Alegre for Cambard do Sul (R$ 47.15,51/z hours) at 6am Monday to Saturday. Returning, you must catch a 7am or l:30pm bus to 56o Francisco de Paula (R$19.45, one hour) and

switch there for Porto Alegre (from R$29.80, three hours), Canela (from R$10.45, one hour) or Gramado (from R$11.85, one hour). Expresso Sio Marcos (www.expresso saomarcos.com.br; Dona Ursula s/n, Estag6o Rodovi6ria) has two buses going to Caxias do Sul (from R$32.55, three hours, 7:30am and 10:45am) on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday (10:45am only on Thursday,7:30am only on Saturday, 5:30pm only on Sunday), where you can connect hourly to Bento GonEalves (R$9.70,17n hours) with Ozelame (A 54 3228- 4088; www.ozelame.com.br; Andrade Neves 999, Rodovidria de Caxias do Sul, Caxias do Sul). lf you are coming from the north, you can connect from Torres via Tainhas or via Crici0ma.

($ Getting Around The parks are not serviced by public buses. A taxi to PN Aparados da Serra costs R$100 for two people (R$200 for four) round-trip. Local tour companies are a reasonable alternative, especially if they can hook you up with a small group.

LITORAL GAUCHO On paper, it sounds amazing: a 50okm strip of Brazilian coastline that forms one seemingly endless beach, stretching from Torres on the Santa Catarina bordet all the way to chul at the uruguayan border. unfortunately, the reality is less enticing. The

t@

331

PRAIA GRANDE The oddly named Praia Grande (it's not big and there's no beach!) sits just across the border in Santa Catarina at the bottom of the canyons that make up Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra and Parque Nacional da Serra Geral; it offers an alternative perspective to Cambar6 do Sul. ln this blossoming ecotourism destination, a wealth of waterfalls and natural swimming pools are at your drsposal, as are hiking, tree climbing, rappelling and ziplines. Bed down at the

wonderful Refrigio Ecol69ico Pedra Af iada (D48 3532-1059; www.pedraafiada. com.br: Estrada Geral Vila Rosa s/n. Praia Grande; d incl meals R$350-1100;

@A) O

There is one daily bus from Camba16 do Sul to Praia Grande (R$13.72, 172 hours,9:45am Monday to Saturday); as well as service from Ararangu5 in Santa Catarina. For more info. see www.praia grande.sc.gov.brlturismo.

water tends to be murky and the beaches are undisting:uished, but there's good surf and alluring culture.

Torres Doxxst

t

poP34,600

On the border with Santa Catarin4 Torres is the exception to the state's uninviting coastline. It's not thrilling, but the pleasant town, 205km north of Porto Alegre, has attractive (if crowded) beaches punctuated by basalt rock formations, vegBtative dunes and alively boardwalk bursting with crepes and churros (fried dough pasties) - the gattchosdiggng-

their-toes-in-the-sand culture

is unique in

Brazil.

In winter, Antarctic currents bring cold,

hard winds to the coast, dispersing the crowds and causing some hotels to shut down from Mayto November.

O

sigtrts

Praia Grande, the town's main beach, is quite calm and is bookended by the smaller Prainha to the south and Praia dos Molhes to the north, a famous surf spot where the Rio Mampituba dramatically enters the seaPraia da Cal, 2km south of Praia Grande, also draws serious surfem.

EI z g E

c

o o

-

o 7 n r -l

CN

332 Parque Estadual da

Guarita

NATURERESERVE

(https://tones.rs.govbr/parque-da-guarita; Benjamin Constant 154; Zhr car access R$8, unlimited R$20; S&m-8pm Dec-Feb, to 6pm Mar-Nov) The

gardens of the 3so-hectare Parque Guari2km south of Av Beira Mar, make for a gorgeous natural setting, while the nearby beach of the same name is considered the most beautiful in Torres.

t4

f I= Io I

-,>

e"tiritt"s & Tours Surf

Felipe Raupp Escola de suRFrNG (U51 99991-4049; wwwfrsurf.com.br: Praia Grande) Internationally renowned surfer Felipe Raupp is the man to get you up in Torres, offering serious multiday surf courses E' on the north end of Praia Grande. E

GI'

-

E' o Marina ta (851 3626-2933;

BoATTNG

www.barcosmarina.com.br;

Ponte P6nsil, Passo de Torres; adulUchild R$70l45;

-{ o

n 7) r

@

S10am & 2pmJan-ApQ Marina runs boat trips to Ilha dos [.obos, an ecological reserve that is home to a colony of sea lions between January and April. In season there is a booth at the beginning of Av Beira Mar.

{d

rest:vats & Events

*Festival lnternacional

HorAtR BALLooNtNG

(lnternational Hot-Air Balloon Festiral;

E5l

3028-

2200: wwwlones.rs.gov.brlbalonismo; Estada do Faxinal, hrque Balonivnr) Every April Tbrres hosts a hot-air balloon festival, a spectacular slght.

lI

Expect discounts of 2Oo/o In 4O% between March and November and a 25o/o hike during the hot-air-balloon festival.

*Pousada Solar

ra Mar l7l3;

lnn

PousADAssg

www.solarinn.com.br: Av Beis/d from R$350/400, with seaview

R$450/500; B 6 B ) Excellent beachfront lG cation, German-style architecture and welcoming owners who speak some English -

you can't beat this spartan inn perched across from Prainha beach.

)(

erting Caf6

Monsieur

Pescador

SEAFooDSS

Colombo 210; mains

for 2 people

R$44-156;

SlOam-midnight; @) This always-packed, partly open-air seafood stop does a commendable job with local fish at the Praia dos Molhes end of town, with panoramic Rio Mampituba views. The crab in its own shell (stri na casca,' R$19.50) is wildly popular and the pineapple stabbed with skewers of shrimp (camardo d, Grega; R$135) is just wild.

! orinring & Nightlife *The Nicolas Pub (www.thenicolaspub.com;

*

6pm-1am Tue-Sun;

6)

BAR

Jose Picoral 51, Loja 2; If you've just crossed

the border into Rio Grande do Sul, this up scale pub is the perfect spot to dive into the gailcho craft. beer scene. Tkelve taps await, along with an inviting patio with Prainha views and sheepskin seat covers in winter.

Q lnformation Casa do Turista (E 51 3664-1411: www.torres. rs.gov.br: Av Barao do Rio Branco 315; & 9am7pm)

($ Cetting There & Away

Sleeping

(851 3626-3Bf;

Cantinho do

(www.cantinhodopescador.com.br; Av Crist6v6o

Pub grub, too.

de

Balonismo

this cafe sits just off the lagoon a few blocks back from Prainha. There's fine espresso, tea and pdo de queijo (tapioca cheese bread) pressed panini - and an absolutely unrelenting choice of sweets and cakes.

cAFES

(www.tacebook.com/monsieurcafetorres; Av Benjamin Constant23; light meals R$3.50-18; 812:308pm Mon-Fri, to 8:30pm Sat, 130-8pm Sun; E) Full of Torres charm, the welcoming patio of

The town is small and all conveniences are accessible by foot, including the bus station

(lJ

51 3654-1787; www.rodoviariatorres.com. br; Av Jos6 Bonifdcio 524). Destinations include Porto Alegre (from R$50, three hours) and Florian6polis (from R$52, five hours, one to two daily). For Cambard do Sul, Expresso Sio Marcos (www.expressosaomarcos.com.br) goes to the dusty one-horse town of Tainhas (R$26.60, two hours,9am and 3pm Monday to Saturday, 9:30am and 3pm Sunday) where you can connect with Citral (@543244-1315; www.citral. tur.br; Frederico Tedesco 602, S5o Francisco de Paula) buses leaving Sio Francisco de Paula at 9:15am and 5pm Monday to Saturday (llam on Sunday), passing through Tainhas (Tainhas) for Cambar6 (R$7.65, 7r houO around 30 to 45 minutes later. However, do not get the timing wrong - if you miss the bus, Tainhas has no accommodations whatsoever.

333

l$ cerruc ro

URUGUAY

Located 245km south of Rio Grande, the border town of Chui/Chuy is the end of the Brazilian line. The city is both Bftzilian and Uruguayan, respectively. The main drag acts as the border: on the northern (Brazilian) side it is Av Uruguai, while on the southern (Uruguayan) side it is Av Brasil. The Uruguayan side has grown over the last decade to be synonymous with duty-free shops, which are flooded wlth Brazilians from open to close. lt's not interesting (unless you are aBrazilian in need of some electronics or reasonably priced Malbecs), but increased security in recent years means it's relatively safe as far as border towns go. Those who linger usually only do so to take advantage of cheaper accommodations when visiting Uruguayan attractions further afield. lf you stay, the best value for money is at Etnico Hostel (E44742281; www.facebook.com/etnicohostelchuy; Liber Seregni 299; dm/s/d US$16/28146; B@6), three blocks into Uruguay, where trilingual host Rodrigo is eager to help, and bakery-fresh breakfast pastries are a nice touch. Brazilian immigration (853 3265-2523; www.dpf.gov.br; Hwy BR-471, Km 650; &24hr) is on the main highway, several kilometers north of town. You do not need a visa or entry or exit stamp to visit the town; however, if you are continuing further into Uruguay, you will need to tell the driver to stop at the border post for an exit stamp. ln Uruguay, immigration(@M74-2072:htIps://migracion.minterior.gub.uy; Ruta 9; t324h0 is 2.5km south of town. The bus will stop again for the Uruguayan off icials to check your Brazalian exit stamp. Uruguay (D53 3265-1151; [email protected]: Venezuela 311; *9am-3pm Mon-Fri) maintains a consulate in Chui, though most nationalities do not need a visa for Uruguay. Pop into Chuy's Centro de lnformes (Ezt474-3627;wwwturismorocha.gub.uy; cnrAv Artigas & Arachanes; S lOam-6pm Tue-Sat Mar-Dec, 9am-7pm Jan-Feb) for helpful Uruguayan

tourist info.

built in 1826 and is the oldest in Rio Grande

Rio Grande 0oxxs:

z PoP 197,200

l.ocated at the mouth of Lagoa dos Patos, Rio Grande was founded in 1737 to guard the disputed southern border of the Portuguese empire. The regiont oldest city, it blossomed

during the lgth century when its port belink in the profitable beef trade. Rio Grande has a charming historic center

came a vital

that is home to some interesting colonial and neoclassical buildings.

O

siglrts

Museu

(A$

Oceanogr6fico

MUSEUM

3231-3496; www.museu.furg.brlmuseus/

museu-oceanografico; Capiuo Heitor PerdigSo 10; R$5; &9-1l30am & 2€pm TueSun) The excel-

lent Museu Oceanogr6fico is one ofthe best

in Latin America and is home to the continent's most important collection of mollusks.

lH Paris

(A$

Sleeping & Eating

Hotel

HlsroRtcHoTELS

3231-3866; www.hotelvillamoura.com.br;

Marechal Floriano Peixoto 112; s/d R$60/80, with-

out bathroom R$40l60;

6)

This hotel was

do Sul, exhibiting a bygone grandeur in its high ceilings, antique furnishings and leaff courtyaxd. At this price, it would be silly not to sleep in an antique bed that once hosted Dom Pedro IL Casa Europa

(853

Gastrobar

BrslRoso

3035-6257; www.casaeuropa.com.br; Benjamin Constant 460; mains R$30-52 &6:30-11pm Mon-Sat; A sophisticated little surprise for Rio Grande, this Euro-style bistro does a small but great selection of Italian and Flench dishes, complementcd by sweet service.

6)

($ Cetting There & Away From the bus station (2 53 3232-8444; www. rodoviariariogrande.com.br; Vice Almirante Abreu 737), buses connect Rio Grande with all major cities in southern Brazil. Embaixador (www.expressoembaixador.com.br) has two departures for Chui (R$56.40, four hours, 7am and 4:30pm) on the Uruguayan border as well as Pelotas (from R$14.85, one hour, every 30 minutes), which is the maior transportation hub. Planalto (www.planalto.com.br) has at least seven buses most days to Porto Alegre (from R$98.55, five hours).

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Brasilia& Goi6s lncludes

Why Go?

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8rasi|ia ....................... 335 G0i6s..........................349 Goi5nia................. .....350 Cidade de Goi6s......... 352

354

Piren6po1is.................

Parque Nacional da Chapada Dos Veadeiros ............ 358 Alto Paralso de Goids...359

Sio Jorge ....................361

The national capital Brasilia was conceived as a workable, utopian answer to modem urban chaos. The purpose-built city is lauded by many for its futuristic architecture and avant-garde design but knocked by detractors who bemoan the impracticaliry of the uberorganized, themed ciry blocks. As Brazil's seat of government, bureaucrats rule, but a thriving city is there, the first in the world constructed in the 20th century to achieve World Cultural Heritage designation by Unesco. Enveloping the Distrito Federal (DF), Goi6s is Brazil's 'road less traveled,'though not for good reason: fiery red sunsets over the lush, rolling hills of the dramatic cerrado (savanna) landscape set the stage for unparalleled postcardperfect views.

Best Places

to Eat

r Tayp5 (p347) . Botequim Mercatto r Olivae (p347) . Mangai (p347) . Bloco C (p347) *

(p351)

Jambalaya (p360)

W'hen to Go Brasilia -

(p345)

.

Pouso. Caf6 e Cultura

(p356) + Cullinan Hplus Premium (p345) + Buddy's Hostel (p359)

.

Taiua Ambiental (p361)

_:x

!IIIIIII!

Best Places to Stay + Brasilia Palace Hotel

naintall rnches/mm

'Cl'fTemp 40/lM

=lll

May The wet season ends and the warm dry period

starts.

r

II M

;

J

;

a

-r2/To

l.'* D

Jul Hotel prices

Aug Sunny days

are down during the holidays and there are familyfriendly events and activities.

and zero rain make this another r

prime month.

33s

BRASiLIA

1960 and remains an impressive monument

Eoxxor z pop 3.1 t\.4lLLtoN / EtEv rt72r Brasfli4 caxved out ofuntouched cerradovegetation from scratch, replaced Rio as capital in

to

national initiative. The original desigrr

(plano piloto)wx inspired by the crucifix but is often referred to as an airplane, with each of its architectural marvels strat€gically laid out

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- ^fu#,a Brasilia & Goi6s Highlights O

Eixo Monumental

(p336) Admiring the series of Niemeyer's architectural marvels down Brasilia's principal axis.

O

cioaoe oe coi6s (p352)

enioying the hip cafes and boutiques of the center.

@ Parque Nacional da Chapada dos\hadeiros (p358) Hiking through the unique high-cerrado

Wandering the picturesque

landscapes in this

cobblestone streets of this historic town and investigating its restored J.8th-century buildings.

picturesque national park and its surrounding attractions. (E) SantuArio oom Bosco (p343) Stepping inside this ethereal blue building in Brasilia and watching your 'seen one church, seen them

O

Piren6polis (p354)

Beating the heat amid a barrage of waterfalls and

all' attitude disappear.

@ sao Jorye (p361) Kicking back in your hammock in this chilled-out dirt-road village.

O Outro Calaf (p348) Dancing the night away to liv e samba, p agod e, c h o r o or sertanejo in this lively central spot in Brasilia. @ Superquadra Dining (p347) Losing yourself in the excellent bars and restaurants of Brasilia's superquadras. Bloco C makes a fine stop.

336 along the Eixo Monumental (which forms the fuselage), and its residential and commercial blocks along its two outspread wings (asas).

With long distances and six-lane highways connected by spaghetti junctions, Brasilia presents challenges for walkers; consider renting a car or ride shares.

You'll find a lively city hidden behind the futuristic facade. Itt not only a pilgrimage for architecture buffs but also foodies, night owls and those seeking a unique travel experience.

History

k F

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i' @

u

?

;

Brasilia and DF (the Federal District) are the result of an ambitious urban project which was set in motion by former president Juscelino Kubitschek and orchestrated by architect Oscar Niemeyer, urban planner Lfcio Costa and landscape architect Burle Marx. The new city was built in just 41 months, though it was a long time coming. The concept of an inland capital was first mnceived in 1823 by Brazilian statesman Jos6 Bonifacio, who believed moving the capital from Rio de Janeiro was centml to capitalizing on the muntrly's vast inland resources and would bring an economic shock to the interior. His ideawas shrugged offuntil years late! when Dom (John) Bosco, a Salesian priest living in Thrin, Italy, prophesied that a new civilization would emerge in Brazil, somewhere befiveen the 15th and 20th parallels. That caught Brazil's attention and land was allocated in the l89l constitution for a new capital. Still, it wasn t until 1955 that Brasflia started to become a reality. After a.lmost 150 years of debate, President Kubitschek ordered the DF to be carved out of GoiSs to house the new capital, Brasilia. With millions of poor peasants from the Northeast working around the cloc\ Brasilia was built from absolutely nothing in just three years (Niemeyer later admitted that it was all done too quickly). It wasn't exactly finished, but it was ready to be the capital. The capital was officially moved from Rio to Brasilia on April 2I, 1960. Kubitschek made the building of Brasilia a symbol ofthe countny's determination and abiliw to become a great economic power. He successfully appealed to all Brazilians to put aside their differences and rally to the cause. In doing so, he distracted attention from the countr/s social and economic problems, gained enormous popularity and borrowed heavily from the international banks. Today, Kubitschek is heralded as a nationa.l hero Oe died in a suspicious automobile accident in f976) but the july is still out on

Brasflia- For some, the city represents the outstanding capabilities ofthis great and vast nation, and a world model for urban develol> ment" architecture and socie* Others, meanwhile, considerthe ciw awasted opportuniw full of pretry buildings but lacking a soul.

O

stgtrts

Brasflia's major edifices are spread along a 5km stretch of the Eixo Monumental. At the southeastern end (maps usually put this 'cockpit' part of the design at the bottom) are the most interesting government buildings. To visit the sights along the Eixo on public transport, mmbine local buses 10,1, and 108 (R$2.50) with some long walks. Note that you will not be allowed to enter Sovernment buildings in shorts, sandals, sleeveless or crop-top shirts, or short skirts or dresses. The other end of the Eixo Monumental can be reached from the local bus station take buses 312, 3i{}l or 34{l from platforms C8 to CIo to get here (R$5, every 20 minutes).

*PrrC"

dos Tr6s

Poderes

sQUARE

This square is a focal point of the city design, a synthesis of the ideas of (Map p340)

architects Niemeyer and Costa, combining various monuments, museums and federal buildings. The space includes striking sculptures, including Bruno Giorgi's Os Cazdangos, Alfredo Ceschiatti's A Justiga and Niemeyerb O Pombal (which looks like a clothespin). The 'three powers' of the name of the square are executive, legislative and judicial; the president's palace, supreme court and parliament are arranged around it in an equilateral triangle. Also here is the monumental Pavilh5o Nacional (Map p340) flagpole, the PanteSo da P6tria e da Liberdade Tancredo Neves (Map p340; Q61 3325'62M: www.cultura.df.gov.

br; &9am-6pm

Tue-Sun)

EIEI, a

cenotaph

commemorating Brazilian national heroes, and two museums detailing the history of Brasilia's planning: the Espago Lticio Cos-

ta (Mapp340; Sgam-6pmTue-Sun) GEEB and the Museu da Cidade (Museu Hist6rico de Brasilia; Map p340i

Ad

3325-6244: &9am-6pm

Tue-Sun) EEEB.

It's worth visiting the plaza during the day and again at night for two very different experiences. After dark, surreal lighting casts an eerie glow across the futuristic buildings, as though they are being lit up by the landins lights of an alien spacecraft. Robberies have been reported here at night, though, so have a taxi wait for you while you visit.

337

BRASiLIA

-

CAPITAL OF THE THIRD MILLENNIUM

ln 1883 an ltalian priest, Dom Bosco, prophesied that a new civilization would arise between parallels 15 and 20, and that its capital would be built between parallels 15 and 16, on the edge of an artif icial lake. lvlany consider Brasilia to be that city, and a number of cults have sprung up in the area. lf you tire of Brasilia's architectural monuments, a visit to one of the cults may be part of your destiny.

Temploda BoaVontade(Templeof Goodwill; Mapp340; 86131141070:www.tbv.com.br; SGAS, Quadra 915, LolesT5/76; *24hr) EEEE The striking Tempto da Boa Vontade was created by the Legion of Goodwill in 1989 as a symbol of universal solidarity. lt incorporates seven pyramids, joined to form a cone that is topped with the biggest raw crystal you will ever see (it weighs in at 21kg). ln the main chamber, you are encouraged to take off your shoes and walk along the spiraling inner circle via the black path, returning via the white path. There is also an interesting Egyptian room for meditation, an art gallery, a fountain and a restaurant. There are a few mixed messages, with ideas of interfaith harmony combined with Christ-the-King propaganda and crystals for sale. Get there on bus 105 or 107 from the city bus station.

Vale do Amanhecer

(Valley of the Dawn;

u61 3389-8754;

www.valedoamanhecer.org:

DF-

130, Planaltina;

910am-midnight) About 45km east of Brasilia, near the satellite city of Planaltina, this religious community was founded in 1959 by a clairvoyant, Tia Netva. lt's really a small town where mediums dressed in elaborate robes and capes conduct rituals for the wider community of believers (over 10,000 across Brazil), who hold that a new civilization will come during the third millennaum. The town's main temple is the focus of the community. Get there by bus 617 from the center of Brasilia. The belief system is complex: based on Catholicism, it also includes elements from Eglrptian, Greek, Aztec, lndian, Romany, lnca, Trojan and Afro-Brazilian beliefs and iconography. Near the temple, a lake, a star-shaped outdoor area and a pyramid are also the focus of rituals.

fCongr"soNacional

NoTABLEBUILoING

(Parliament; Map p340; 861 3216-171; www. congressonacional.leg.br; Praga dos TrOs Poderes;

&9am-5:30pm Thu-Mon) EEEI Featuring photogenic roof'dishes' and twin towers, the conSresso Nacional has one of the more interesting interiors in the city. In addition to the color-coded chambers of the Senate (blue) and House of Representatives (green), there is an architecturally interesting'Thnnel ofTime' and an exhibit of antique Senate benches and microphones

from

1867.

The convex dome on the roof of the of Representatives is supposed to signify that membership is open to all House

ideologies. Visits on Thursday (or for nonPortuguese guides) must be booked online or by phone. Otherwise, tours leave about

every half hour, lasting an hour. No flipflops, sleeveless tops, shorts or miniskirts are allowed.

*P"t6cio

do

Planalto

pALAcE

(Map p340; @61 3411-2317; www2.planalto.gov. br; Praga dos Trds Poderes; S9am-1:30pm Sun)

filil'llll The Pal6cio do Planalto, where Bra-

zilb president works, is another Niemeyer design that's worth seeing inside and out. From the curved lines of the exterior to the lustrous columns and sweeping curved ramp inside, it's one of the best examples of architectural modernism in the world. The tour even lets you peek into the president's office. There is a ceremonial changing of the guard outside the gates every hour on weekends and every two hours during the week.

*Catedral Metropolitana

cATHEDRAL

(Nossa Senhora Aparecida; Map p340; 861 3224-4073; www.catedral.org.br; Esplanada dos Minist6rios; 98am-4:30pm Wed, Thu & Sat-Mon, 10:30am-4pm Tue & Fri) EEE| fne 16 curved ribs rising to the crown of the iconic exterior coupled with the light-filled circular interior, v/hich sits under a dome of wavy stained-glass, make this cathedral a heavenly sight. At the entrance are Ceschiatti's haunting Four Disciples statues; he also created the aluminum angels hanging in-

side. Wearing shorts and visiting during Mass are not encouraged.

EI F

o 9 o

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7

?

338

I

I

,.*

l

Niemeyer's Brasilia Oscar Ribeiro de Almeida NiemeYer Soares Filho passed away just 1O days short of his 1o5th birthday on 5 December 2O12, but his legacy lives

on in Brazil's futuristic capital.

As

the creative genius behind the 'freeflowing, sensually curved' designs of the DF's (Federal District's) civic buildings, as well as some of Brazil's most eye-catching edifices elsewhere, the great architect had a unique gift for turning reinforced concrete into artistic masterpieces. Niemeyer was visited in September f956 by Brazilian president Juscelino Kubitschek, who was an admirer of his work. Tasked with the job of build-

ing a brand new capital, a legendary partnership began, and, with the addition of Lricio Costa as the landscaper, the dream soon became a reality. The readying of the city took place remarkably quickly and Brasilia was ready for business on 21 April 1960, though many of the major buildings were completed later; some are still being worked on. Niemeyer later lamented the rush, but to the nonperfectionist, the results were still outstanding. Though an atheist himself, the 'crown of thorns' form of the Catedral Metropolitana (p337) is widely recognized as one of his most cutting-edge designs, with a heavenly dome of lonB stainedglass panels. The heavens theme contin-

339

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Palacio da Alvorada

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$3a2) 2. Museu Nacional

*

@3a2)

3. Catedral Metropolitana (p337)

I

T

ues nearby at the simple but stunning Museu Nacional (p342), a white dome with a circumnavigating ramp leading to the entrance that recalls Saturn and its rings. Less visually striking, the design of the domes on the roof of the Congresso Nacional (p337) represents an openness of government to all political ideologies and reflected the optimistic future that Brasilia would embody.

Inspired by the words of Kubitschek What is Brasilia, if not the dawn of a new day for Brazil?', Niemeyer created the modernist Pal6cio da Alvorada (p342) as the official residence of the president, its simplistic layout turning its nose up at the excesses of previous incumbents of Brazil's top job.

Niemeyer was politically Ieftist and designed Brasilia along socialist principles, with similar apartment blocks to prevent the emergence of wealthy neighborhoods. He was a friend of Fidel Castro, who once described himself and Niemeyer as the last communists on earth. Niemeyer's political beliefs led to persecution under the military dictatorship of the 1960s and he was driven into exile, returning only when the country returned to democratic principles in the mid 1980s. Niemeyer continued to work right up to his death and lived to see Brazil finally beginning to fulfill the promises it pledged with the building of Brasilia.

340

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Brasflia OTop Sights

I

Catedral Metropo1itana.......................... D5

2 Congresso

3 4 5

5

Naciona1................................E6 Museu Naciona1...................................... D5 Paiacio do 1tamaraty.............................. D6 Palacio do PIanalto..................................E6 Praqa dos Tr6s Poderes..........................E6

@Sights

7 Biblioteca Naciona1................................. D5 Espaqo Lrcio Costa.........................(see 6)

8 Memorial dos Povos 1ndigenas..............E3 9 Memorial JK..............................................E3 Museu da Cidade.............................(see 6) 1o Panteao da Petria e da Liberdade Tancredo Neves.. ................................. D7 Parque Nacional de Brasi|ia...................Gl 12 Pavilhao Naciona1.............. .....................E7 13 Templo da Boa Vontade........................ 82

u

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Drinking & Nightlife

22

............c4

2s

Bar

Brasilia....

............C4

........... H4 26 Clandestino... 27 Ernesto Caf6s Especiais.........................83 28 Loca Como Tu |i,,ladre.............................C4 29 Victoria Haus............................................. F1

O Entertainment 30 Clube do Choro........................................L4

3l

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An:.i9Ao...........

23 Bar Beirute - Asa Norte.........................F4 24 Bar Beirute- Asa Su1..............................84

Outro

Calaf.....

...........D5

14 Hospedagem Domiciliar Asa Su|.......... A3 15 Hostel

7..........

............F4

@Shopping 32 Fundacao Athos 8u1cao.........................C5

-a

*Mr.", Nacional u (Museu Honestino Guimaraesi

@

a =

MUSEUM

Map p340;

E6l

3325-5220: www.cultura.df.gov.br; Esplanada dos Minist6rios: 99am-6:30pm Tue-Sun) EEEI This

landmark white dome, gleaming in the sun, was opened to the public on the l00th birthday of architect Oscar Niemeyer. The inside is softer in gmys but equally spectacular, featuring a discreet mezzanine mostly held up by columns suspended from the roof. A signature curved ramp juts out from its base and runs around the outside like a ring of Saturn. Goodqualiw temporary art exhibitions fill the interior. Teatro Nacional Cl6udio Santoro THEATER (Map p344; D61 3325-6205; www.cultura.df.gov. br; SCN: Sgam-6pm Tue-Sun) GEEEI The lopped-off pyramid of the Teatro Nacional looks somewhere b€tween a waterslide and a skateboard ramp. Inside, sculptures and a garden adorn the impressive lobby.

Biblioteca

Nacional

LIBRARY

(Map p340; 861 3325-6257: www.bnb.df.gov.br: Esplanada dos Minist6rios: SSam-8pm Mon-Fri' to 2pm Sat & Sun) EEB The national library was opened in 2008 and yet still seems to

be not fully realized. The arcade and grille of the handsome exterior give it a vaguely

Arabian feel. Inside, there's not much to see apart from a small exhibition space on the 2nd floor.

*p"la"iodoltamaraty

NoTABLEBUILoING

(Paldcio dos Arcos; MaP p340; 861 2030-8051; www.itamaraty.gov.br; Esplanada dos Minist6rios, Bloco H; &hourly visits 9am-llam & 2-5pm MonFri, 9am, llam,2pm,3pm, 5pm Sat & Sun) EEE| Paldcio do Itamaraty is home to the Foreign Ministry and one of Brasflia's most impressive buildings - a series of concrete arches towering over Burle Marx's reflecting pool

and floating gardens. Outside, the Bruno Giorgi sculpture Meteor consisls of five marble blocks, each representing a continent. Weekday visits can be booked by phone or email. Tours run in Portuguese, English and French. No flip-flops, sleeveless tops, shorts or miniskirts are allowed.

*Prte"io

da

Alvorada

(Palace of the Dawn;

E

PALAoE

613411-2317; www2.planalto.

EEB The official presidential residence, the PaI6cio da Alvorad4 is a Niemeyer building constructed in 1958. It was the first edifice in the city to be inaugurated, predating the inauguragov.br: SCEN; *2:30-4:50pmWed)

tion of the city itself by two years. The name translates as 'Palace of the Dawnl in reference to Juscelino Kubitschek's description of Brasflia as'a new dawn in Brazilian historyl The ga.tes are marshaled by dapper Drag6es

da Independ€ncia guards, a special regiment of soldiers origrnally formed during the War of Independence. Arrive early for one-hour Wednesday tours (canceled if it's raining).

343 thke bus 0.1O{ (R$2.50; every 30 minutes) from plafform A16 in the local bus station.

Dom Bosco cHURcH 3223-6W: www.santuariodom SEPS 702, Bloco B; S 7am-8pm) trtrB

*Santu6rio (Map p344; bosco.org.br;

Ail

Santu6rio Dom Bosm is made of8o concrete columns that support 7100 pieces of illuminated Murano glass, qpbolizing a starry slv, which cast a blue submarine glow over the pews. The central chandelier weighs 2.5 tons and adds an amazing a35 Ight bulbs' worth ener8y to the monttily electriciW bi]l.

of

Bus 0.107 (R$3.50; platform EIO in the local bus station) passes here every eight minutes.

*Centro Cultural

Brasil

Banco do (CCBB; E 613108-7600;

ARTScENTER

60kg nugget is striking, as are photos of the mining in the Serra de Pelada where it was found. You get a commemorative coin on entry but you'll need to show your pirsport.

Parque Nacional de (Map p340;

br;

Brazilian/foreigner R$13,/26; &8am-4pm,

In the northern reaches of the city limits, some lokm from the centet the 3O-sq-km Parque Nacional de Brasflia is a good place to relax. It has natural swimming pools and is home to a number of threatened animals, including deer, anteaters, giant armadillos and maned wolves. TWo trails (1300m and Skm) explore the park, and there is also a mountain-biking route. Bus 128 from box El2 in the ciry bus station goes past the front gate.

wwwculturabancodobrasil.

S 9am-9pm

Memorial

JK

(Map p340;

E

SCES,

Trecho 2, Conjunto 22;

EEI

Torre de TV rowER (Map p344; Eixo Monumental; 89am-7pm TueSun) EEI The 7sm-high observation deck of the TV Tower gives a decent overview of the city, but it's still not quite tall enough to really get a sense of the city's airplane design. The mezzanine level sometimes has exhibitions; there is also a tourist information point and cafe here, both closed for refurbishment on our last visit.

Cultural

Caixa (Map p344; 861 3206-9448; com.br; SBS Q4, Lote Gf,EE

MUSEUM

www.caixacultural.

3/4; &9am-9pm

Tue-Sun)

this bank-run center has several galler-

ies for temporary exhibitions, a sculpture gaxden, a cafe and theater. The lobby ofthe main bank building across the car parl! the Atrio dos Vitrais, is a feast for the eyes: a series of gorgeous stained-glass panels represent each Brazilian stat€. Watching them shimmer over pools ofwater is a spectacular sight.

Valores

Museu de (Map p344:

861 314-2093;

MUsEUM

www.bcbgov.brl?

museu; SBS Quadn 3, Bloco B; S10am-6pm Tue-Fri,

2'6pmlstSatof month) Eim Numismatists will be interested in visiting this museum in the central bank HQ. A detailed history of Brazilian coins and banknotes - try keeping track of the cruzeirocruzado-cruzeiro shenanigars in the '7Os and'8Os - is complemented by foreign notes, In the gold section, an enonnous

eARK

www.icmbio.gov.

last exit 5pm)

Brasflia's most important contemporary museum houses temporary exhibitions in two galleries, an indie cinema, a cafe and a bookstore. Buses 0.103 and 1O3.2 run here from the center.

com.br;

Tue-Sun)

Brasilia

861 3233-4553;

MUSEUM

613226-7860; www.memoriafik.com. br; Prap do Cruzeiro; adulVchild R$10/5; 99am6pmTue-Sun) Inside this enormous memorial

is the tomb of former president Juscelino

EI lo 6)

o

t

Kubitschek (JK), which lies underneath eeglass by Flench artist @ Marianne Peretti. The museum houses JK's T 3o00-book personal library as well as a pictorial history of Brasflia. Dorft miss his 1973

rily beautiful stained

?

Ford Galaxie!

Memorial dos Povos lndigenas MUSEUM (Map p340: wwwcultura.df.gov.br; Praga Buriti; 99am-5pm Tue-Fri, l0am-5pm Sat & Sun) EEE Opposite the Memorial

JIi in a Niemeyer

building inspired by the circular form of the indigenous Yanomani hut, is a sma)l but colorful display of indigenous artifacts put together by anthropologists Darcy and Berta Ribeiro and Eduardo GalvSo. It's complemented by temporary exhibitions on aspects of indigenous culture.

@ f

Tours

Experimente

Brasilia

TouRS

with this excellent agency, determined to show you a side of Brasilia that will surprise you, (www.experimentebrasilia.com.br)

Go local

whether that be on foot or two wheels. The most fascinating of the tours goes deep into s up e r q ua dr a life (R$9 5).

Billy

Deeter

TouRs

(261

3037-1823; www.mrbrasilia.com) Charismatic Billy Deeter, otherwise known as Mr Brasili4 organizes custom gf,oup and private

multilingual tours, which include some offthe-beaten-track points of interesl

344

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orinLing & Nightlife

There are two main nightlife clusters in town: the buzzy sports bars with ample outdoor seating around the lovely Pra4a Pop ular (aka Praga Eurico Gaspar Dutra) and more establishments along Av Getflio Var-

F =

BUSES FROM CUIABA

o

DESTINATION

cosr

6,

Alta Floresta

223

F

o o aD o t, o ,n

(Rs)

E) If you like your beer bem gelada (nice and cold) and it's another baking Cuiab6 day, the Choppdo is heaven. Iceinsulated tankards keep the chope (draft beer) glacial the whole way down. A wide range of traditiona.l Mato Grosso fare is on hand in generous quantities, including a legendary chicken soup that locals rate the 5am Fri & Sat;

city's best hangover cure.

Varadero (865 3027-5001;

Castelo Branco 898; 6:30pm-2am daily: 6) The romantic outdoor

seating ofthis sizable bar and restaurant is a fine spot to be on a balmy Cuiab6 night. There's good food here, but the real stars of the show are the excellent drinks, especial-

ly the elaborate caipiri.nhas, caipiroskas and,

FREQUENCY

COMPANY

14

6 daily

Verde Transportes

(wwwverdetransportes.com.br), ViagSo Novo Horizonte

(E

(865

3056-1256)

BomJadim

4t

4

daily at 2pm

GM Tur

Bnsllia

208-232

23

7 daily

Expresso Seo Luiz (www.expressosaoluiz.com.br), Eucatur (www.eucatur.com.br),

CampoGrande

147-170 11-14

c)

65 3625-1287)

Andorinha (www.andorinha.com)

c

(D

mojitos.

TIME (HR)

C

;

BAR

www.varaderobar.com.br; S11:30am-3pm Tue-Sun,

2Odaily

>.

Andorinha, Eucatur,

Motta (www.motta.com.br), Nova lntegragao (www.eucatur.com.br), ViaEao Sao Luiz (www.viacaosaoluiz.com.br)

(U

Chapada dos GuimarSes

17

LYt

10 daily

cMT

Goiinia

160-200

18

9 daily

Expresso SZo Luiz, Eucatur,

Pocon6

29

2{t

5

Porto Velho

206-324

23-26

15

65 3046-6151)

Sat6lite Norte (www.satelitenorte.com.br) daily daily

CMT Eucatur, Gontijo (www.gontijo.com.bQ, Expresso ltamarati

(wwwexpressoitamarati.com.br), Roderotas (www, roderotas.com)

S5o Paulo

220"350

28-30

12daily

Andorinha, Roderotas, Eucatur, Gontijo, ViaqSo Utll (www.util.com.br)

Bar do

369

Edgare

(www.fucebook.com/bardoedgare;

BAR

Traqaia 280;

llam-llpm Sat; 6) West of downtown, this is worth the cab ride for its relaxed good cheer, regular live rock (Fridays) and popular Saturday feijoada (fuanand-meat stew; Rg30). It's an old favorite and most of the crowd are 30-plus. 85pm-2am

fi

snopping

Casa do

(0

Tue-Fri,

ArtesSo

ARTS&CRAFTS

Refer6ncia (E 65 3682-6689; www.referencia. com.br; Av Governador.JoSo Ponce de Arruda 1034, V6rzea Grande; STam-11pm) and Localiza Hertz (0 65 3925-9250; www.localizahertz. com: Av Governador.JoSo Ponce de Arruda 820, VSrzea Grande) are a couple of reliable car rental companies with offices at the airport. The best car for the Pantanal is one with high clearance, though any car can make it during dry season. ln the wet season (November to March) you'll need a 4x4 and ott-roaddriving experience, and some sections may be impassable anyway.

653611-0500; www.sescmatogrosso.com.br; Av Tenente Coronel Duarte 2140; S8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 7:45am-1pm Sal) Q This warehouse spot south of the center has a wide range of Mato Grosso handicrafts and sweets, including ceramics, wood carvings, straw baskets and,

pequi cr1me liqueur.

Q lnformation MEDICAL SERVICES

Hospltal Geral (E 65 3363-7000; www. hg.cuiaba.br; cnr 13 de Junho & Thogo da Silva Pereira) University hospital with 24-hour emergency services. TOURIST INFORMATIO}I

Sedtur (E 65 3613-9300; www.cultura.mt.gov. br; Voluntdrios da Piitria 118; S1-7pm MonFri) Has some helpful maps and brochures in Portuguese.

($ Cettlng There & Away AIR Cuiab6's international airport (CGB; E 65 3614-2511: Av Joio Ponce de Arruda, Virzea Grande) is in Vdrzea Grande, Tkm from central Cuiab6. There are flights all over Brazil, principally operated by Azul" Gol, LATAM and Avianca also have some routes, principally to 56o Paulo

and Brasilia. BUS Cuiabd's bus station (Jules Rimet) is 3km north of the center.

@ Cetting Around From the airport, bus 7 (R$3.85) runs to town and on to the bus station. A taxi costs around R$40. Buses back to the airport run along Av lsaac P6voas and Rua Ba16o de Melgago. From inside the bus terminal, you can get a Centro bus to Praga Alencasko (R$3.85). More frequent buses marked 'Centro' leave from outside the bus station and drop you along Av lsaac P6voas. A taxi from inside the bus station costs around R$35.

Chapadados Guimarees Eoxxos u PoPt9.1oo./

ELEV798r\4

The Chapada dos Guimardes region is

a

spectacular plateau with dramatic red sandstone escarpments and is surprisingly different from the typical Mato Grosso terrain. The town is much higher than state capital Cuiabd and provides a cool and convenient base for exploring the surrounding areas. It is also home to a lush central square. Very quiet midweek, it packs out with weekend visitors from Cuiab6. The area surrounding the national park has numerous attractions. On the way from Cuiabe to Chapada town, you pass Rio dos Peixes, Rio Mutaca and Rio Claro, which are popular weekend bathing spots for cuiabdnos, andthree commanding valleys, Vale do Salgadeira, Vale do Paci6ncia and Vale do Rio Claro. The sheer 80m drop called Portiio do lnferno (Hell's Gate) is also unforgettable - it was the town'prison' in the early 20th century (use your imagination!).

@

sights & Tours Chapada

Mirante da

(Cenko Geod6sico)

vlEwpotNT

The mirante (lookout),

EI 0

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o G,

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o o o E' o o c o

-

marked with a modest concrete square, is the geographic center of South America. T While the monument is underwhelming, 0

the views are magnificent! Off to your right you can see the Cuiaba slgline, and, beyond

that, the flatlands that eventually become the Pantanal. To get here, follow Route 251 through Chapada and head east for ?km; a cycle path connects the viewpoint to the town. The rim ofthe canyon is a couple of hundred meters away. Chapada

Explorer

(U65 330LU90;

EcorouR

www.chapadaexplorer.com.br; Praga Dom Wunibaldo 57; 88-11am Mon-Sat)

y'

An excellent Chapada-based agency run by local operators who have grown up around

o o ' r a

370 ecotourism and are actively involved in teaching the benefits of low-impact tourism to locals. It runs excursions to all of the area's attractions in groups (max 10 people), as well as multiday excursions to the Pantanal or Bom Jardim.

lI

Steeping

There are numerous sleeping choices in Chapada ranging from cheap digs to rG mantic luxury pousadas,

Jardim

PousADA$ Pousada Bom 3301-2668; www.pousadabomiardim.mm. br; Praga Dom Wunibaldo ,161; Vdlq with hn

(865

491250, Vdltr with air*on R$120l185/230; B 6 ) There's little reason to spring for air-con at this cheapie right in the main square - the fans are highoctane. A favorite with backpackers, the rooms are a bit dingy but spotless. There's a surcharge if you orily stay one night on a weekend.

R$100

I

I= I> I-l

X

e"ttne

Restaurants with dramatic outlooks are a couple of kilometers southeast of the center, while cheap budget buffets clust€r in towrl. There's a good lunchtime restaurant on the premises of Parque Nacional da Chapada

dos Guimar6es.

A

couple of places have

homemade ice cream in tempting local flavors on the town's main square.

fruit

BRAztLtAN$9 dos Ventos 3301-1030; www.morrodosventos.com.br; Estrada do Mirante. Km 1; mains R$36-86: 011am4pm; 6 ) Head past the pride ofwooden lions to find fantastic takes on regional cuisine: perfectly gnlled picanha with a fuIl entourage of sides, rice slow-cooked with chunks of pork, great slabs of grilled pintado and fantastic fruit juices. The restaurant is by a viewpoint with dizzying glimpses of the va.lley below and hzls gxeat perspectives itself. Entrance to this compound, 2.5 km southeast of central Chapada, costs R$5 per pedestrian or R$20 per car.

*Mo.ro

(465

Pousada Villa Guimaraes PousADA$$ (965 3301-1366: wwwpousadavillaguimaraes. IO com.br; NecoSiqueira4l; s/dR$254/350: E 6 E ) pomodori located near the main square, this (U65 3301-3061; wwwtucebook.com/Pomodori -o Ideally -D o tratoria: Caldas 60; mains R$35-60; 94-10pm Mon.A cheerful yellow pousada is all heavy wooden |TAL|AN SS

a,

o F

-

furniture and colorful accents. The breakfast is one of the best in town. There's an inhouse tour agency, too.

Thu, to midnight Fri, noon-midniStt Sat & Sun) The cutest restaurant in the center is decked out with checkered tablecloths and serves a handful of select Italian dishes niShtly as well as excellent flstr, like pintado with passion-fruit sauce. It is also rcnowned for its empad'as (stuffed pastries) with savory fillings.

LoDGES$$ o *Cu". da Quineira G' (465 3301-301; www.casadaquineira.com. ,, br; Frei 0svaldo 191; d standard/superior/deluxe o R$510/650/870: BEts) Thcked away down o tn FUstoNgO$ Bistr6 da Mata o a quiet street, this classy and welcoming (865 3301-3,43; www.facebook.com/bistroda I spot abuts the forest, with abundant birdlife. o contemporary art merges seamlessly with matamt; Av Morro dos Ventos; dishes R$60-100; o ext€nsive sculpted gfounds, hammocks and eTpm-midnight Fri, from llam Sat, 11am-4:30pm E pool. On cooler nights, you can sit around Sun) A romantic bistro with stupendous

C)

!

the firepit or fireplace. All rooms have good beds; standards are quite compact but luxo rooms are huge, with hydromassage tub.

0 Breakfast is brillianl o o Pousada do Parque Eco Lodge LoDGEgs$ a (D65 99671-6876; www.pousadadoparque.com. 6) C

br

Estrada do Parque Ecol6gico, Km 52: r R$2t35:

ts68) y' This intimate eco-choice borders 150 hectares of national park. Delicious, food and a knowledgeable m home-cooked U) wildlife guide enhance your stay here, miles away from the nearest neighbor. It's down a fairly rough road that leads to the Waterfall Circuit; book in advance and communicate your arrival time as the park gate is other= 7

wise locked.

views, rough-hewn stone walls and an appealing outdoor terrace. The creative daily menu incorporates the likes of baconwrapped veal medallions with wild mush-

room risotto and grilled pintado (catfish) with olive pesto; on Sundays there's a buffet of homemade pasta (R$60). It feels totally rural but is only a couple of kilometers south ofcentral Chapada.

O Cetting

There & Away

(E 65 3301-2679)

leave CuiabS's bus station for Chapada town (R$12 lVr hours, nine daily) between 6am and 7:40pm. The miraculous views are on the righfhand side from CuiabS.

CMT buses

371 ln the other direction, the first bus leaves Chapada town at 5:30am and the last at 7:40pm. Chapada's bus station (Fernando Correa) is two blocks from the main plaza.

O

Cetting Around

(E 65 3301-2637; www.bikescia.com.br; Tiradentes 104; halflfull day R$50/70; S 8-11:30am & You can rent hybrid bikes from Bike's

1-6pm Tue-Sat),

@

Tours

Entrance

to the national park attractions

was free at time of research, but most could only be entered with a registered guide or driver. The website www.ecobookjng.com. br has a list of guides for each attrartion, together with contact details and languages spoken. Itt also easy to arrange guides at your lodgings in Chapada dos Guimardes. Prices vary according to your itinerary

whether you have your owrr transport or

Parque Nacional da Chapadados Guimarfles E oxxos Only receiving national park status in lg8g, the outstanding 33 sq km Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimardes remains under the mass tourism radar, though it's hard to see why. Picture the scene: red rock buttresses soaring up from a green valley; lines of palm trees marking the location of clear rivers and pools for snorkeling; waterfalls ranging from immense to petite and swimmable; dusty hikes through parched land, observed only by yellow-eyed burrowing desert owls; mysterious caves to explore... The park sits high on a plateau, meaning that evening and morning temperatures are mercifully cooler than elsewhere in Mato Grosso. The V6u de Noiva area is the only part of the park you can visit independently. Otherwise a certified guide is required.

O

sishts V6u de Noiva

wATERFALL

(BridalVeil; S9am-5pm,lastentry4pm)

E[[|

rlhe

impressive V6u de Noiva, an 86m free-falling waterfall, provides the park's characteristic postcard moment. A small trail leads to the

lookout, perched on top of rocks with the canyon below. This is one ofChapada's most dazzling spots; no guide necessary. It is around gkm v/est of Chapada town. You can get off the bus from Cuiabi at the park turnoff, spend a couple of hours, then flag down the next bus to Chapada. The vis-

itors center (865

3301-1133; www.icmbio.gov.

br; S&m-Spm) here has a restaurant.

Cachoeirinha & Cachoeira dos Namorados wATERFALL (S 9am-4:30pm, last entry noon) These two gentle, pretty waterfalls are reached via a lkm trail from the carpark at V€u de Noiva- They are very popular with local families as they have safe bathing for children and the closest beach is a thousand miles awav.

not, group size and negotiating skills. Figure on around R$150 to R9250 per person for a half- to full-day excursion.

*ciouae

de

pedra

MouNTATN

(Stone City; wwwicmbio,gov.bilparnaguimaraes/ guia-do-visitante.html; entry only with authorized guide: S9am-5pm Sun-Fri, from 3pm Sat) EEI

Cidade de Pedra provides the regionb most

transcendent moment. Jagged red sandstone rock formations jut up into the sky from the tops of enormous cliffs that drop down into the vast green valley beneath. You follow the short footpath that skirts

the edge of the cliff through scrubland, peering at the abyss below. Morning is the best time to visit, when the sunlight illuminates most of the cliffs. It's 25km northwest of Chapada. Morro S5o

Jer6nimo

HIKING

(www.icmbio.gov.br; entry only with authorized guide; &8:30am-5pm, last entry noon) The flat,

table-like summit of Morro Sdo Jerdnimo rises above the southern edge of the national parh a^ffording spectacular g60o views of Chapada's rock formations, the Pantanal and the valleys below. It's an excellent and not particularly difficult day hike, though it is an lSkm round-trip. Bring plenty ofwater and appropriate shoes.

Circuito das

Cachoeiras

WATERFALL

(Waterfall Circuit; www.icmbio.gov.br; entry only with authorized guide: &8:30am-5pm, last entry noon) GII':E The Waterfall Circuit involves a

gentle 6.5km hike through a parched red landscape, covered with scrubland and low trees, with six waterfall stops en route; the whole thing takes four to six hours, depending on how easy you want to take it. The first waterfall is the highest, while the others are better for swimming, with deep pools and cascades forming natural Jacuzzis. Access to some involves negotiating steep steps. Entry is free, but you must go with a registered guide.

372 Vale do Rio

Claro

SNoRKELING

(Rio Claro Valley; www.icmbio.gov.br; SSam-Spm' last entry lpm) A steep scramble takes you to

a viewpoint overlooking the lush valley and the razor-thin rock formations of the Crista do Galo (rooster's crest). Then you swim and snorkel in clear, deep, rapid-fed pools in the forest before embarking on a 500m float, following your guide along the twists and turns of the narrow river, the somber underwater world revealing itself beneath you. You need to go with a registered guide. If you dont have a 4x4, youd better contract a guide that does.

Roteiro da Gaverna Aroe Jari e Lagoa

Azul

cAvrNG

(Aroe Jari Cave Circuit; from R$250 per person)

This tour focuses on Brazil's largest sandstone cave, reachable via a hiking trail through scrubland and featuring unusual rock formations and a startling, mirror-like

II> I{ IO ac, 7U

o o o o

cave lake. It's not part of the national

park

@ Cetting There & Away Buses run regularly between Cuiab6 and Chapada dos GuimarZes town (R$17, lYr hours, l0 daily). They will drop off and pick up at the entrance to V6u de Noiva.

to its ma"ximum depth of 6m and schools of fish that mill about as you explore the underwater world. Aquarium aside, you can snorkel-float 850m along the Rio Salobra on thie same fazenda (fatm). It's 10km from town. Guides are on-site but you'll usually need to book your time slot ahead. SNoRKELING Rio Triste (Fazenda Agua Branca; snorkeling R$75; S7:30am-4:30pm) At Rio Tiiste, lTkm from

Bom Jardim, you're delivered to the start of a forest trail by tractor. With any luch you may spot some monkeys before floating face to face with red-finned piraputanga fish in a deep, clear pool. Then float downriver behind your guide, dodging submerged tree trunks and trying to spot sand-colored freshwater stingrays. You can rent an underwater camera (R$50). BIRDwATcHING Lagoa das Araras (R$20) A ls-minute walk signposted from Bom Jardim's main street leads south to Lagoa das Araras, a trartquil sunken palm forest. Sunset is the best time to observe dozens of cawing blue and yellow macaws coming noisily to roost; you'll see a handful during the day too. Pay the fee at the yellow shop by the main road and take insect repellent.

no

= Bom

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Cachoeira da Serra

Jardim

Eoxxos z popsoo The watery attractions around Bom Jardim a hot one-street

-

town lsokm north of Cuiab6

are similarto those of Bonito in Mato Grosso do Sul, albeit on a smaller scale and minus the crowds. Crystalline rivers overloaded with tropical fish, caves, waterfalls and macaws makethis an extremely rewarding place

-

to spend some time, whether you take a tour from Cuiab6 or overnight in the town proper.

f

n"tiriti"" fr o You'll need to be accompanied by a guide to visit some attractions, while others have guides on-site. Book visits ahead of time with tour agencies in town, though they dont provide transport. Tour companies in Cuiab6 also run these excursions. Ifstaying the night in Bom Jardim, it can be cheaper to book both accommodation and tour together.

*Recanto Ecol6gico Azul (865 99238-5090: R$75; Lagoa

Azul

wATERFALL.SNoRKELING

(SESC Serra Azul; snorkeling R$70; &8am-5pm)

This is the most impressive of the area's numerous waterfa.lls. The S0m-high cascade plunges into an 8m-deep vivid-blue pool, and excellent flutuagdo (snorkeling/flotation) can be done here; there's also a speedy zipline descent. You can only enter with a guide. It's 20km east of town, followed by a l.Skm walk from the parking lot.

l5

Sleeping

Pousada Rota das

(865

Aguas

PousAoAss

3102-2019; wwwrotadasaguas.tur.br; Ro-

dovia MT-241, Km 65; s/d/tr R$130/250/350; ts E ) Right in town, the colorful rooms at this appealing pousada face a green court-

yard with slat hammocks and attractive timber features. The windows could use screens. The owner is happy to share his knowledge of the area and there's an on-

site agency (465 3102-2019; www.rotadas aguas.tur.br; Rodovia MT-241, Km 65). Rates are

often discounted. SN0RKELING

&7:30am-4:30pm)

Pousada Bom

Jardim

PousADAS$

The underground-spring-fed Aqudrio En-

(D65 3102-2018; www.pousadabom.lardim.com;

cantado here has incredible visibility down

Rodovia MT-241, Km

65; s/d/tr R$1@/250/340;

373

EB68) In the heart of Vila Bom Jardim, this amiable pousada doubles as a tour agency. Rooms have crimson irccents and hammocks surround a tranquil gxeen space and pond out back

\

r"ting

Bom Jardim has a handful of simple eating places aJong the main drag. Rancho do Chapolin BRAZILIANg (46599930-2104; all-you-can-eatR$30: &roughly noon-3pm Tue-Sun,7-11pm daily) Head up the side of the Serra Azul pousada to find this convivial open shed where long communal tables and an open kitchen set the scene for rustic, very tasty traditional farmhouse-style

cooking served

in

deep metal pots. Unu-

sually, your chef and host is dressed as an ant (actually a satirical anti-superhero from 1970s Mexican IV) but couldn't be more welcoming.

It's very casual; help yourself to drinks from the freezer, eat as much as you want and work out your own bill. Opening hours are not set in stone, so ring ahead if you're relying on it. Balneario

(465

Estivado

BUTFET$

3102-2021; wwwfacebook.com,/balneario estivadooficial; buffet R$25; 09am-Spm) This

thatched restaurant comes with an additional attraction that's good for small children: a shallow pool filled with flsh (Rgt5). The buffet is simple but showcases regional dishes. It's a couple of kilometers east

oftown.

@ Cetting There & Away One GM Tur bus (A653625-1287) a day runs from Cuiabd to Bom .Jardim at 2pm (R$41, four hours) with the return leaving at 6am. Transport is included in guided tours from Cuiabd.

@

Tours

Transpantanal (A 65 3345-2343:

rouRs

www.transpantanal.com.br;

Av

Anibal de Toledo 1895; S7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) The only agency in town that ca-

ters to serious fishers, Tbanspantanal offers six-night fishing packages for groups along the CuiabS, 56o Lourenqo, Piquiri and Paraguai rivers, with accommodations in the floating lodge that in the dry season is Flotel/Jaguar Suites (d8r). The fishing season is March to June.

\

e"ting

Pousada

(865

Pantaneira

oHURRASCAR|AS

3345-3357; wwwpousadapantaneira.com. br; Rodovia Transpantaneira, Km 0; rodizio R$40, per kg R$40; This justifiably popular

EE)

churrascaria (barbecue restaurant) sits at the top of the Tlanspantaneira and it's where most travelers stop for a meal. The different cuts of meat are gut-bustingly good, as is the extensive buffet of Pantaneiro sides. There are also some simple rooms, if you need to stay the night (s/d/

tr

R$751130/170).

Q lnformation Two banks with ATM in town represent your last chance to withdraw cash if heading along the

Transpantaneira.

($ Cettlng There & Away There are five daily CMT buses between Cuiab6 and Pocon6 (R$29, 2% hours). Aniving in Pocon6, they first stop at the bus station (Justino Francisco), about 10 blocks from the center of town, then continue on to Praea da Matriz; behind the Matriz church is the road that leads to the beginning of the Transpantaneira.

Alternatively, shared taxis leaving from the Ponto de Taxi at Praqa da Matriz will drop you at your final destination in Cuiab6 for a mere R$40 per person if full.

Poconr6 Eoxxas t PoP32.2oo This dusty frontier town is a place travelers invariably have to pass through on their way to the Tlanspantaneira'highway.' It's so sleepy that, as one local put it,'In Pocon6, even the restaurants close for lunchl'

This place is unlikely to detain you for longer than a meal stop, though those driving themselves to a lodge along the Tlans-

pantaneira might consider overnithting here to get an early start and catch the wildlife in action on the way.

Alta Floresta @oxxao

t

pop5o.2oo

The bustling agricultural service town of AIta Floresta, 873km north of Cuiab6, is a staging post for trips into the vast expanse

of the Amazon jungle that lies beyond. There is one excellent reason to head here,

and that is to visit the Cristalino Private Natural Heritage Preserve, considered one of Amazonia's best for spotting rare birds and mammals, including the endangered

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CRISTALINO LODGE on the banks of the Rio cristalino (39km north of Alta Floresta), in an area rich in flora and fauna, the luxurious cristalino Lodge (lz 66 3521-1396; www.cristalinolodge.com.br; s US$600-960, d per person US$510-750, plus one-time US$90 per person conservation fee; 6 ) has two Som-high observation towers and over 20km of bird- and animal-watching trails that pass through nine difierent ecosystems. The rooms and VIP bungalows flash creature-comfort luxe. Rates include transfers. gourmet meals, expert multilingual guides, excursions and insurance. The reserve, reached by an hour's drive and a half-hour boat trip from Alta Floresta, is considered one of the top spots in the world for birding and the lodge now produces its own coffee-table books on the hundreds of bird species found here. The reserve hosts ornithologists and other researchers and the cristalino Foundation (an NGO) is petitioning the Brazilian government to surround the existing private Iand with a national park, thus extending the protected area by 20km. Facilities are topnotch, with a library, screening room, outdoor bar and varied buffet meals prepared by a skilled chef. ln keeping with the sustainability ethos, the complex uses extensive solar energy. Activities are not limited to bird-watching: canoeing. seasonal caiman-spotting evenrng tours on the river, and swimming off the pontoon dock are all part of the fun'

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white-nosed bearded saki monkey, lowland tapit grant ott€r and five species of macaw. Another highlight is a dedicated trip to see harpy eagles in the wild. Soy, beef and maize are the major products ofthe nearby large ranches. On the edges of town you'll easily spot macaws.

@

Tours

o Southwild BIRDWATCHING l) ,, (www.southwild.com; 4-daytrips/d U5$1590/2600) o This professional, innovative outf,t runs a

an

o tr, o o c

four- and fiveday trips to harpy eagle nesting sites, with a guarantee of seeing them or your money back. You can sleep in a camp near the birds or in hotel accommodation. Southwild is also developing other intriguing ecotourism options in this far-northern

- paxt of the state. --o lI Sleeping & Eating u park --{

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Hotel

Floresta Amaz6nica

(866

Hotel

HoTELss

3512-7100; www.tuh.com.br; Av Teles Pires Set in 2001; s R$149-249, d R$199-299; jungly surroundings neax the airport, this hc

ffi68)

tel is in need ofa touch-up but still has appeal,

particularly with the numerous bird species flitting around the property. There are three grades of room, all rather basig but the luxo class gets you a kinS-sized bed and slishtly better bathroom. The complex is set around a pool; there's also a guests'only restaurant Higher-grade rooms come with a little private terrarce; some of the luxo ones face the forest and are best for birders. The hotel is associated with the Cristalino Lodge, which has an office here that can organize &

trips (D66 3521-2221; US$130 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat).

Hangar

cAFEs

seasonal day per person;

(wwwfu cebook.com/restaurantehangaraf : Aeroporto de Alta Floresta: dishes R$20-35; S10am-5pm Av

Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; @) At the airport, this is a popular hangout with bright, affa-

Perimetral Deputado Rog6rio Silva 1850; s R$189-

ble service, good-value meals, decent coffee

Caleche

HorEr$s

(U66 3521'4008; wwucalechehotel.com.br;

6)

This modern business hotel was doing things right when we last passed by, with well-equipped rooms, a spacious lobby with bar and dinner restaurant, and helpful staff. It's easily the best hotel in town. There's a bit of noise and the edge-of-center location isn't perfect if you dort't have wheels, but head out back and you'll probably see macaws. Prices are very 199, d R$239-259:

reasonable.

ts

@

and local craft beer. Grab a table outdoors.

ChurrascariaCambalacho

BRAzlLlANss

(E 66

3521-3376; www.fucebook.com/churrascaria cambalacho; Av Jaime Verissimo Campos 520;

S 11am-2:30pm daily, 6-llpm A huge range of food is available at this cheerfrrl loca] favorite, with lunchtime per-kilo buffets (R$3Twithout the erill, R$6O mixed, R$90 meatonly) and numerous beeff half-portions R$21-55;

Tue-Sun)

375 options in the evening, as well as pizzas, fish dishes and more. Most half-portions feed two. They keep the cftope (draft beer) flowing.

l$

Cetting There & Away

From Cuiab6, Verde Transportes (www.verde transportes.com.br) and Viagio l{ovo Horizonte (A 65 3056-1256) run bus services north to Alta Floresta (R$223, 14 hours, six daily). Azul (www. voeazul.com.br) has one to two daily flights.

@ Cetting Around Car rental is available at the airport. Taxis will shuttle you around town for R$25 to R$30. Motorbike taxis are also available.

THE PANTANAL L,ocated in the heart of South America, the world's largest wetlard covers some 2l0,OO0 sq km. The m4iority is in Brazil, split between the states of Mato Grosso and Mato

has made systematic farming impossible and has severely limited human incursions into the area- However, it does provide an enormously rich feeding ground for wildlife. The floodwaters replenish the soil's nutrients, which would otherwise be very poor, due to the excessive draina6e. The waters teem with fish, and the ponds provide pro tective niches for many animals and plants.

Enormous flocks of wading birds gather in rookeries several square kilometers in areaI^ater in the dry season, the water rccedes, the lagoons and ma$hes dry out a.nd fresh grasses emerge on the savanna (the Pantanal's vegetation includes savanna and forest that blend togettrer, often with no clear divisions). The hawks, storks and caimalir (jacari) campete for fish in the remaining ponds. As the ponds shrink and dry up, the caiman crawl axound for water, sweating it out until the rains return.

Planning

il

the Pantanal is an unmissable destination.

It's possible to visit the Pantanal year-round, but it's best to go during the dry season (May to September) as the wildlife concentrates around the reduced water. This is peak jaA-

The Pantanal has few people and no towns. Distances are so great and ground transport so poor that people get around in

uar-spotting time. The best time to watch birds is from July to September, when the waters have receded and the bright-gxeen F

Grosso do Sul. These open marshes are home

to an immense riety of life - if you like to see animals in their natural environment,

o o 0 o

small airplanes and motorboats; car travel is

grasses pop up from the muck.

restricted by the seasons. You can either penetrate the Pantanal from the north, where the Transpantaneira runs deep into the region, or from the south, where Estrada Parque cuts across the wetlands. The much-mooted road right across the Pantanal has long been shelved due to

Flooding, incessant rains and heat make o travel diffrcult during the wet season (No- o vember to April), though this time is not D without its special rewards - this is when o o the cattle and wildlife of the Pantanal clump ,n o

concerns about the general absurdity of having a road that's underwater for halfthe year.

Geography & Climate Although pantano means 'swamp,

in both

Spanish and Portuguese, the Pantanal is not a swamp but a vast alluvial plain. From the

surrounding highlands the rains flow into the Pantanal, forming the Rio Paraguai and its tributaries (which flow south and then east draining into the Atlantic Ocean). During the wet season (November to March), the rivers flood their banks, inundating much ofthe low-lying Pantanal and creating cordilheiras (vegetation islands above the high-water level), where the animals cluster together. The waters reach their high mark up to 3m - in January or February then start to recede in March. This seasonal flooding

on the cordilheiras. However, these islands are covered with dense vegetat'ion that can make spotting wildlife difficult. The heat peaks from December to February when temperatures higher than rl0"C (1O4oF) are common, roads turn to mush, and the mosquitoes are out in force. Many hotels close at this time and in the northern Pantanal tour companies effectively take a break. together

15 Sleeping Pantanal accommodations are divided into roughly three types: pousadas, which range from simple to top-end;fazenda,l which are ranch-style hotels that usually have horses and often boats for use; and pesqueiros, which cater for anglers and usually have boats and fishing gear for rent. All accommodations in the Pantanal offer meals; rates are mostly full board.

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Driving the Transparrtaneira ln 1973 the government decided to push a road through the Pantanal from Cuiab6 to Corumb6. After they had arrived at Porto

Jofre, 145km from Pocon6, theY then made the wise choice of stopping and questioning the wisdom of putting a road through an area that was underwater for six months a year. The result, or remnant, is the Transpantaneira, a raised dirt road that extends deep into the wetlands.

Wildlife is plentiful along the roadside and you'll typically see jacards (caimans), capybaras and lots of birds. Once you get off the road and onto some of the farms, the impressive display of wildlife becomes even more varied. There are several places to stay along

the Transpantaneira, all with horseback riding, walking and boating expeditions. If you are driving from Cuiab6, head out around 4am to reach the Transpantaneira by sunrise, when the animals come to life. Though the road officially starts in Pocon6, most folks mark the wooden sign and guard station l7km south of the ciry as the beginning of the journey. Don't forget to fill up your fuel tank in Pocon6. There is a gas station at Hotel Porto Jofre for client use only, but you'll pay twice the going rate. Heading south, it won't take long for a caiman or a macaw to cross your path as you navigate the 125 little wooden bridges and meter-wide potholes. Notice the interesting carved statue of SdLo

377

@IrEt Hr** l.

Aerial view of the

Transpantaneira

2. Gateway tothe Transpantaneira

3. Capybara

Francisco, Protector of Ecology, around Km 18. He was installed by a priest in Pocon6 a few years back. Barara is a small bar at Km 32, where you can stop for a beer and, galinhada (boneless chicken and rice) or fried fish. At Km 65 you leave the grid - everything for the next 4,0km is run on solar energy or generators (though cabling is on the way...slowlr. After Km 105, the landscape changes, with denser vegetation and an altogether wilder feel. You are now in jaguar country, where the deep Pantanal begins. Even if you don't spot a jaguar, you are rewarded for your intrepid efforts once you hit the beautiful wide-open spaces of Campo do Jofre, just north of Porto Jofte. Here the wildlife is so plenti-

ful, you'll wind up draining your camera or phone battery in just a few kilometers. Weekdays are better for driving, as there's Iess traffic kicking up dust. At the end of the road, check out the gigantic water lilies you always see in photos from the Amazon: there are hundreds in the pond at the back of Hotel Porto Jofre, out on the small wooden pier beyond the swimming pool. In Cuiab6 there are car-rental agencies just outside the airport grounds. In the dry season, and providing it hasn't recently rained, a normal car is all you need to drive the Transpantaneira, but double-check vehicle requirements with your accommodations. Don't even think about driving at other times of the year.

378

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caballero

Ponta Pora

379

If you have doubts about roughing it on the budget tours, it is better to spend a bit more money for basic comforts - a bed, mnning water and some hope of avoiding a million mosquito bites. It rarely costs much more and the investment is worth it for a good night's sleep. Ifyou travel independently, you can rent a car in season. Thansportation is almost never included in the room rates and can take a sizable chunk out ofyour budget ifyou don't have your own wheels. From Cuiab6" transfers in and out may require any combination of .l,WD, boat, horseback and plane, depending on the season. For this reason, many travelers go in under the services of a tour operator. Tbansportation in and out is then included and they often have access to more remote lodges.

@

Tours

The principal access towns where you can arrange tours are Cuiab6 in the north (for the Tlanspantaneira) and Campo Grande in the south (for the Estrada Parque). Tours from Cuiaba tend to be slightly more expensive, but more professional with smaller groups and better-trained guides; they also go deeper into the Pantanal.

Northern Pantanal Famed for its wonderful animal and birdlife, including the gruff prowlingjaguar, the wet-

lands of the northern part of the Pantana.l are a superb highlight for wildlife lovers. The region has a few access points, notably the iconic Tlanspantaneira- This raised dirt road sectioned by small wooden bridges begins at Pomn6 and ends l$skm south at Porto Jofre. It's a spectacular drive, with plentiful wildlife the whole way. At Porto Jofit, jaguarspotting boat trips are a major drawcard in the dry season, while great fishing is also a possibiliW.

Beyond C6rcres, west of Cuiab6, there are also jaguar-watching opportunities with tour operators that run trips on the Rio Paraguai.

@

Tours

Flom CuiabS, the capital of Mato Grosso, small tour operators arrange safaris along the Thanspantaneira that include transportation, ranch accommodations on farms, and guides. Guides speak English and are well trained on the whole, and the smaller groups increase your chances of seeing the shyer animals.

Fortunately, while there is healthy competition between tour operators in CuiabS, it's not as intense as in Mato Grosso do Sul and some operators share the same Pantanal camps. Tours here are well organized and quite mmfortable, starting from around R9600 per day - ifyou are serious about seeing animals they are worth the efira money. Some

companies also run pricier 'jaguar tours' with an excellent chance of seeing this magnificent feline in the Porto Jofre area from June to November-

f

Pantanal

Nature

(D65 99925-2265, 65 3322-0203;

wtLDLtFE

www.pantanal

nature.com.br; Av Historiador Rubens de Mendonga 1856, CuiabS; 4-day nature tour per person R$4150,

jaguar tour R$5800; &office hours 7-11:30am & l:30-5pm Mon-Thu,8am-noon Fri & Sat) Superb

agency run by Ailton Lara that has a sterling reputation for its professional tours and expert guides. It runs Pantanal nature toum and, in season, jaguar tours from the Pantanal Jaguar Camp (p38f) in Porto Jofre. You can also go for a five- or six-day combination. Tours are cheaper off-season and ifyou opt to camp. Single supplement is 20%. You are best to book several months ahead. Tours run in English and Portuguese, with other languages available by prior arrangement

*Southwila

wtLDLtFE

(www.southwild.com; 7-day jaguar-spotting packages per percon US$5000-7000) This innovative

high-end operator has been a pioneer in Pantanal wildlife tourism. It has upmarket packages involving stays at Southwild Pantanal lndge and Rotel/Jaguar Suites (p381) and

have also developed other jaguar-spotting bases removed from the increasingly busy Porto Jofre scene. Tours cater for serious nature-watchers with on-site biologists and wildlife databases. Many trips offer money back if certain animals aren't spotted.

Pantanal

Explorer

W|LDLIFE

(u65

il o

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-(,

3682-2800; www.pantanalexplorer.com.br; Av Governador Jo6o Ponce de Arruda 670,YAnea Grande) Owner Andr6 has been working with

z.

sustainable Pantanal tourism for decades and fights harmful government interference. He is actively involved in saving the hyacinth

-

macaw and giant otter. As well as Tlanspantaneira-area excursions, this outfit has ajaguarspotting base in a more remote ]ocation on the Paraguay river, as well as other lodges in different ecosystems in Mato Grosso. It is affiliated with Pousada Araras Eco

Lodse (p380).

-t

z.

380

lS elNmNlL

PAcKtNG

Ltsr

You can't buy much in the Pantanal, so come prepared. The dry season is also the cooler season, though it can still get pretty hot. Don't forget the following:

tr Quick-dry, light-colored long-sleeved shirts; leave behind red (it scares animals), yellow (mosquitoes love it) and black clothing (it's too hot and mosquitoes love it, too) tr Neutral-colored long pants tr Sneakers or hiking boots tr Rain poncho

o Frip{lops or water

sandars

I= I> I{ IO -o -u o o

Tours

relaxed budget company has decades of service and experienced guides. Working with local pousadas toward an ecofoiendly Joel Souza can guide you in sevo approach, o eral languages. You can find him at Hostel F Pousada Ecoverde. He runs Pantanal nature tours yeax-round and jaguar-spotting tours -{ from June to October.

-

G,

,t

FocuS

TOurs

WILDLIFE

o (E Brazil 319134-3a8, USA +1 50521&7/80: www o focustours.com) y' In operation for nearly 3r, o four decades, this trailblazing ecotourism E operator was founded by ecologist Douglas o Tlent As well as customizable birdwatching ao and nature-watching trips, it runs jaguarexcursions on the Rio Paraguai and warching z o operates a major conservation projest. n -{ -m l,I Sleeping fr

z. Accommodations along the Thanspantaneira are plentiful and there is a good variery of ! z. choices, from fairly rustic to high end. --t

z.

-

Pousada Rio

Clarinho

PousADAs

(865

99637-0516; www.pousadarioclarinho.com. br: Transpantaneira, Km 40; s/d/tr incl full board &

E) An avian symphony is your wake-up call at this rustic/azenda ight on the Rio Clarinho (there's a river platform for swimming). There is an extensive area of forested trails, and more than 260 species of birds on the properw, as well as capybaras and giant otters. The food excursions R$290/460/690;

o Sunscreeen tr Sunglasses tr Binoculars D Strong flashlight or headlamp

tr Flask or reusable water bottle

wILDLIFE Ecoverde 99638-1614: www.ecoverdetours.com.br: Pedro Celestino 391, Cuiab6; 4-day nature tour s/d R$2400/4000, iaguar tour R$3000/5000) This

o

D Mosquito repellent with plenty ot DEET

o Camera with good zoom lens

tr Sun hat tr Swimwear

(865

o Fleece or sweater o Day pack

is authentic pantaneiro and the owners' warmth transcends the language barrier. Prices are very reasonable. It's 3.5km off the Tlanspantaneira; you might strugigle if you don't have a 4WD vehicle. Porto Jofre Pantanal

Pousada&Camping

PoUSADA,CAMPING$$

865

999n-3699; wwwportojofrepantanal.com.br; Transpantaneira, Km 145, Porto Jofre; Vd incl full board R$350/660, camping p${Q; ffi @) Turn left at the end ofthe Thanspantaneira to reach this budget favorite that is better known hereabouts as Pousada de Neco. It's a genuinely welcoming place with (Pousada de Neco;

a wonderful riverfront location - ideal for wildlife-spotting boat tours, as well as tasW food, spartan but air-conditioned rooms, and clean showers for campers. Meals are included in the room price (campers pay extra). Boat excursions cost R$750 to R$950 per day (R$500 to R$650 half day) depending on engine capacity. It's worth going for the bigger engine if you're jaguar-spotting. Do not confuse with the Pousada Porto Jofre Pantana.l Norte. LoDGES$$ f Ar.r"r Eco Lodge (465 3682-2800; www.araraslodge.com.br; Transpantaneira, Km 32; s/d incl full board & excursions R$159V2a82; ts68) 7 .rht pi

oneering ranch offers great comfort and

luxury in a peaceful setting. Rooms have lovely artisanal bedspreads and patios with hammocks. There is a ueetop tower for bird-watching (hyacinth macaws) and super welcoming owners Andr6 and Akhila make an immense effort to be sustainable (water

381 recycling, solar panels and much more). The food is really good, with vegetarian choices and home-grown produce. You can also book a Jaguax Express daytour (US$550) that whisks you down to Porto Jofre

in the morning and heads out feline-spotting before retuming here in the evening. Thereb a minimum stay of three nights and a cons€rvation fee of R$130 per person per stay. Flotel and Jaguar

Suites

HousEBoArggs

(www.southwild.com; Rio Piquiri; 6-night packages per person US$5@0-6700; SJun-Nov; EE@6)

Moored on the Piquirl in the heart of jaguar

territory these twin houseboats axe the accommodations for wildlife-viewing packages run by Southwild (p379). The Ftotel has small cabinlike en-suite rooms; the adjacent Jaguar Suites are a newer construction with very roomy wood-fitted charnbers with mosquitonetted beds, large windows and balmnies. TasW meals, a jaguar database and wildlife talks make this tops for serious naturewatchers. Packages include transfers from Cuiab6, meals and two daily excursions. From March to May, it functions as a base for fishing excursions with Tlanspantanal (p373).

Pantanal Jaguar Camp LoDGEsss (865 99925-2265; www.pantana[aguarcamp. com.br; Transpantaneira, Km

1215, Porto Jofre; d with meals & excursion R$1035, camping per person

R$60, with own tent R$45;

@@ Q

Intimate,

solar-powered wilderness lodge with seven comfortable rooms, camping and an on site restaurant. This is a gxeat PorUo Jofre base for jaguar-seeking boat trips (R$.i10 per person) that is affiliated with Pantanal Nature (p379). Other activities include night safaris on the Tlanspantaneira and bird-watching.

Pousada Piuval 3345-1338;

(465

pousADAgg$

www.pousadapiuval.com.br;

Transpantaneira, Km 10; full board s/d standard R$500/713, luxo R$604/857; E tr E ) Popular,

genuinely welcoming and family-run, this sizable working ranch is just l0km from Pocon6. Rooms are comfortable with hammocks, but ith worth the upsrade to the much newer luxo ones that come with a private balcony and lots of space. It's one of the better pousadas for parents with children. The pool is wonderful, as are sunset boat rides. SouthWild Pantanal

Lodge

LoDGE9$S

(Fazenda Santa Tereza; www.southwild.com; Transpantaneira, Km 68; d incl full board R$820; E 6 @ )

I

tans laid-back and low-slung reddish ranch house right on the banks of the Rio Pixaim is 2.5km off the Thanspantaneira. Fifteen impeccable large rooms with comry exec-sile chairs and beds with mosquito nets make commodious bases for wildlife-spotting (good giant otter chances) and

CHOOSING A GUIDE Pantanal tourism is big bustness and in the past some companies have been guilty of employing underhand tactics in the race to hook clients. Though measures have finally been taken to clamp down on the worst offenders, it is still worth bearing a few suggestions in mind to have a safe and enjoyable trip.

+ Resist making

a snap decision, especially if you've just climbed off an overnight bus.

i

Do not make your decision based on cost. Cheaper very rarely means better, but even expensive tours can be a letdown.

.

Go on forums. Read online reviews. Speak to other travelers. What was their experience like? Be aware that operators often run each other down both by mouth and in online reviews.

. Remember that the owner or salesperson is not always your guide, and it's the guide you're going to be with in the wilderness for several days. Ask to meet your guide if possible. Ascertain your guide's linguistic abilities. + Don't hand over your cash to any go-betweens.

. lf you are even remotely concerned about sustainable tourism, do not use operators and lodges that harm this f ragile environment. That means no picking up the animals for photographs or touching them whatsoever. + Group budget tours focus squarely on the spectacular and easy-to-see species. Serious wildlife-watchers should be prepared to pay more for a private guide.

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382 JAGUAR-WATCHING FROM PORTO JOFRE One of the world's great wildlife experiences is a visit to the Pantanal, and the crowning moment of a trip here iust might be spotting a jaguar. The largest big cat in the Americas, and the third-largest in the world (behind only lions and tigers), jaguars have become habituated to humans in boats and haughtily ignore them, going about their daily business on the shore or in the water as if the observers weren't there. Jaguar-watching trips run from Porto Jofre in the dry season, from May to November. All the boats communicate with each other by radio: when a.iaguar is spotted, everyone races toward it. The upside is that your chance of seeing one is dramatically increased; the downside is that you'll likely see it as part of a jostling crowd of 10 to 20 boats. Nevertheless, they are a majestic sight. While jaguars are the main focus, there is plentiful other wildlife on these tours. Caimans and capybaras are numerous and you may well spot giant river otters, howler monkeys or even tapirs. The birdlife is simply extraordinary. lf you are interested in birds' it's worth bringing the Elrds of the Pantanal field guide, which is on sale at most lodges (R$150). It's worth letting your guide know of your specif ic wildlife interests, as otherwise they may assume that you are only there for the jaguars and that birds are a sideshow.

Other things to take along on the boat trip include sunglasses, binoculars, insect repellent, a hat, sunscreen and maybe even a jacket for the early morning chill. lt's hot, so drink water but don't overdo it: you may be out there four hours without a toilet break. Most visitors book jaguar-watching trips as part of a multiday package that includes accommodation (these should be booked up to a year in advance), but you can also book single excursions vra Porto Jofre Pantanal Pousada (p380), Hotel Porto Jofre Pantanal Norte and Pantanal Jaguar Camp (p381) among others. Some tour operators such as Southwild (p379) and Pantanal Explorer (p379) are establishing further-flung jaguar-spotting bases to escape the crowds, while in the southern Pantanal Refrigio Ecol6gico Caiman (p384) is another prime spot.

li

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horseback riding; there's also a plunge pool and a tower where ocelots mme to feed at

nisht. Hotel Porto Jofre Pantanal

(865

Norte

LoDGESSS

3637-1593: www.portoiofre.com.brl Trans-

pantaneira, Km 145, Porto Jofre; s/d incl full board

R$560/9,14 SMar-Ncp:

@08ts)

This

sprawling complex sits where the Tbanspantaneira meets the river at Porto Jofre. Catering for anglers and wildlife enthusiasts, it has wide river frontage, excellent birdlife (reEular hyacinth macaws) and extensive facilities, from pool tables to an airstrip. Rooms are simple and a little dated in avo cado green but decent. The hotel has a fleet ofboats for fishing andjaguar-spotting trips. Do not confuse with nearby Pousada Porto Jofre Pantanal Norte.

\

and

they comefrito (fried), grelhado (grilled), assado (baked) or defurnad.o (smoked). Bolh dourad.o and pacu have lots of small bones, but they separate easily when baked slowly. Pacz is often baked and served with an escabeche sauce consisting of onions,

tomatoes and peppers. Another favorite frsh is pintado, excellent when spiced with rough salt and pepper and grilled. One specialty is peice d, urucum, where the chosen fish is served topped

with

spices,

milk and melted mozzarella. Piranha soup is also popular and considered an aphrodisiac by the condensed milk, coconut

pantaneiros.

($ Cetting There & Away Cuiabd is the main access point for the northern Pantanal and easily accessed by air or bus from

other Brazilian cities.

e"ting

In the northern Pantanal, the cuisine often fish-based. Pacu, dourado

tado are the most consumed fish,

and,

is

pin-

From Cuiab6, buses go as far as Pocon6. at the beginning of the Transpantaneira road. ll you're

383 not driving or on a tour, your only options to go further are taxis or hitching.

reliable packages.

Southern Pantanal The Mato Grosso do Sul part ofthe Brazilian Pantanal has a panoply ofwildlife and a fine choice of lodges from backpacker favorites to exclusive eco-havens. Ail accommodations arrange nature-watching trips on both land and watet as well as horseback riding and other Brazilian countryside experiences. There is easier access to the wetlands here than in the north, although you can't penetrate as far into the region. Southern gateways to the Pantanal are the cities of Campo Grande, Corumb5, Aquidauana and Miranda. Most travelers head to Campo Grande.

CorumbS, Aquidauana and Miranda are popular with Brazilian anglers.

@

Tours

Budget tour operators working in Mato Grosso do Sul arrange packages at camps along Estrada Parque, a ll7km stretch of dirt road through the region known as Nhecolindia^ Estrada Paxque is actually closer to Corumb6 than to Campo Grande, but the vast majoriry of mmpanies have long relocated to Campo Grande, a travel hub mnvenient for onward travel to other parts of Brazil. The city has made a big effort to clean up its act, with the local government closing down lodges that didnt comply with ecological legislation and tightening the screws on dodgy operators.

Problems persist, but things are definitely moving in the right direction. The cheap est tours axe rough-and-tumble affairs and gxoups ilre often large, but with prices starting at around R$500 per day, it is an economical way to see the Pantanal and its wildlife. Pantanal

Discovery

(lZ6&7 99163-3518;

wtLDLtFE

www.gilspantanaldiscovery.

com.br; Hotel Mohave, Afonso Pena 602, Campo Grande; 3-day, 2-night package hammock/dm/s/d

R$1000/U00l1550/2800) Owner Gil is a perennial operator with a polished sa.les pitch. He's assertive, very helpful and the pick of budget operators in town. He's used to dea.ling with short notice or tight schedules and has his own transportation.

Pantanal

(A67

Viagens

lodgings that has worked hard to maintain its excellent reputation. Caters to mid- to high-end budgets and has professional and

wtrDLtFE

3321-3143; www.pantanalviagens.com.br;

Room 9, Old Bus Terminal, Joaquim Nabuco 200, Campo Grande) A nice agency working with Pousada Passo do Lontra and other Pantanal

ll

Sleeping

Much of the accommodation in this part of the Pantanal is along the road called Estrada Parque, while there are also highcnd hotelfazendas around Aquidauana and MirandaEstrada Paxque runs off the main Campo Grande-Corumb6 road (Hwy BR-262) at Buraco das Piranhas, 72km from CorumbS and 324,km from Campo Grande. Parts of this road can be flooded even during the dry season. To get to the Estrada Parque you can take the Campo Grande-Corumb6 bus and

arrange for your lodge to pick you up (for a smaJl fee) at the Buraco das Piranhas intersection.

Pantanal Jungle Lodge LooGESg (A67 3242-1488; www.pantanal-iungle-lodge. com; Estrada Parque, Km 8; 3-day,2-night package dm/s/d R$910/1380/2310; BBE) This boardwalk lodge is a backpacker favorite, thanks to its enviable riverside location and well-organized activities - from canoeing and piranha fishing to night safaris on the river and wildlife-spotting treks. Iodge either in one of the breezy dorms or in a private room with air-conditioning. All have an insect-screened porch to relax in. Pousada & Camping

Santa

(467

Clara

PousADA,cAMpcRouNDst

99939-3570; www.pantanalsantaclara.com.

br; Estrada Parque, Km 22: 3-day,2-night package incl full board & excursions camping/dri/s/d

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R$580/860/20n980; EEE) This working E ranch is enthusiastically run and has a host @ of activities (hikes, piranha fishing, night sa- o c faris, horseback riding), accommodations to --{ suit all budgets and,heaxty pantaneiro ccnk- fr It is deservedly popular; expect Iarge nz. groups. Rooms are compact but OI

Gro6so

Marechal R

Allan

iOs 22 4i 95. E qo" 3

Rondon 2

li

Coelho

R Maracaiil

Kardec.-

r

Maria

Antono

:


Bahia's largest following - Senhor do Bonfim, associated with Candombl€. A proces-

)"e

sion of baianas (women dressed as Bahian 'aunts') in ritual dress carrying buckets of flowers walk 6km from Cidade Baixa to Igreja NS do Bonfim.

I-

lemanj6

Festa de RELrcrous Z1 Perhaps Candombl€'s most important festival, the event pays homage

E (SFeb

to the orird. (deiry) IemanjS, goddess of the sea and fertiliff Devotees descend on Praia Rio Vermelho in the morning, where ceremonies are held to bless offerings of flowers, cakes, effigies and perfume bottles. The ensuing street festival goes until night and is packed with people and some of Salvador's best bands. Festa de S5o JoSo da Bahia (wwwsaojoaobahia.com.br;

I

RELIGIOUS

late Jun)

Ilrotech-

nics, street parlies and,forr6 (popular music of the Northeast) performances spring up all over town for a week neax the end of June. Bahia's so-ca)led.festas

celebrations) take place

in

juninas (Jtne Salvador and

throughout the state.

ConceigSo

Festa de NS da RELrcrous (SDec 8) Candomblistas honor the saint's

ori.rd alter ego, IemanjS, with a procession and ceremonies in Cidade Baixa.

Novo

Passagem do Ano

(&

Dec 31)

New Yea.t's

E',ire

-

is celebrated

NEwYEAR

with all

the zest ofcarnaval, especially on the beaches.

15 Sleeping lQ

Pelourinho

Staying in the Pelourinho means being close to the action, but the beach suburbs are mellower (and just a short bus or taxi ride away). Santo Antbnio is a peaceful neighborhood with classy pousadas in renovated old buildings just a short walk from the Pelourinho. Reservations during Camaval are essential.

*Hostel

Galeria

13

HosrEL$

(Map p408; 871 3266-5609; www.hostelgaleria 13.com; lnacio Acciole 23, Historic Center; dm/d

from R$40/135: tsEE) tocated in an old colonial house complete with a swimming pool and a Moroccan-style lounge (rarities at any hostel), but especially in one at such

location in the middle ofthe historic Galeria 13 is a huge hit with backpackers. Brea"kfast is served till noon, and nonguests are welcome to hang out.

a gxeat

center

-

Hostel

Laranjeiras 871

HosTELs

(Map p408;

3321-1366; www.laranieirashostel. com.br; Rua da Ordem Terceira 13; dmld R$44l98;

EB@6) This cheertul colonial mansion-

4r5 turned-host€l is one of the best budget op tions in the Pel6. High-ceilinged rooms range from dorms to comfortable suites - save cash by choosing a room with a fan instead of air-conditioning. Perks include kitchen access,

laundry facilities and an on-site cr0perie.

Hotel

Bahiacaf6 (Map y'08;

BouTtQUEHoTrL3t

@A

3322-1266: www.bahiacafe hotelsalrador.com; Prap da SE ?2; s/d/t trorn R$179/2i3/287; Qts6) This chic but lovvkey boutique hot€l has fashionably outfrted rooms and an excellent location close to the center of the action in the Pelourinho. The lobby cafe, filled with locally produced artwork and open to the public, is the perfect spot for a quick cappuccino during an affernoon ofsightseeing.

*

C"r"

Amarelindo

do

BouTtQUE

HorrLSit

(Map p408; E7l 3266-8550; wwwcasadoamare lindo.com; Portas do Carmo 6; d from R$509, with view from R$594; EtsE@) Inside a lgthcentury colonial mansion on a historic bloc\ this charming boutique hotel is truly a gem.

Ten impeccably ouffitted guest rooms have first-class bedding, hot tubs or rainfall showers, and huge windows; there's an adorably

petite rooftop swimming pool, a popular bistro (p4,18) and a small fitness cent€r. No children under age 14 are permitted.

Bahia

Hotel Villa AA$22-4271;

BoUIQUEHoTELStS

www.lavillabahia.com; Largo do Cruzeiro de S5o Francisco 16; d R$708-

ts68) Q

Occupyins a pair of restored Portuguese-style colonial houses, this sustainably run boutique hotel (practices include recycling and employment of local craftspeople) has 17 rooms with hardwood floors, shuttered windows and antique furnishings from heavy armoires to twinkling chandeliers. There's a panoramic terrace and plunge pool, plus a good organic restaurant that's open to the public.

Hotel Al 32€61048.7;

Fera Palace (Map p408;

HrsToRrcHorELiaa

www.tecpalacehotel.

EEB)

com.br: Chile 20; r/telrom $670/1396; Sleep inside a lMng piece of Salvador's histo-

ry at this newly rcstorcd boutique hotel. The facade oftle building still retains its I930s art deco charm, but inside everything has been given a luurious modern makeover with amenities including a rooftop pool and spa

lE

Carmo & Santo Antdnio

Many of the city's most charming (and best-value) pousadas are located in this neigh-

l't

An art deco landmark immortalized in literature, the Palace Hotel had been closed for more than a decade. But it was the pinnacle of glamour in its heyday. The hotel opened in 1934 and hosted famous guests from Orson Welles to Carmen Miranda; Jorge Amado chose its ballroom as the setting for a memorable scene in his novel Dona F/or e Seus Dois Maridos (Dona Flor and Her Two Husbands). Now the newly crowned Fera Palace Hotel has reopened after a multimilllion-dollar restoration overseen by the Brazilian entrepreneur Antonio Mazzafera and the noted Scandinavian architect Adam Kurdahl. The hotel has around 100 guest rooms and suites, two restaurants, and a swimming poolwith views over the bay. lt's part of a larger effort to revive the neighborhood - keep your eye on this pocket of the old city that's being called the'Bahia Design Destrict.'

borhood- It pays to look around online before booking a room.

Pousada

Baluarte

(Map p404;

(Map p408;

982;

REVIVING A LANDMARK: THE PALACE HOTEL

lii;

Dn$27-0367;

PousADASS

Ladeira do Baluarte

d with/without bathroom R$155/200;

@6)

Run by a friendly French-Brazilian couple, Baluarte feels like a B&B, with a welcoming, homelike ambience and just five rooms with hardwood floors and beautiful block prints by a local artist. A delicious breakfast is served on the veranda lt's right off

the trendy Pra4a de Santo Antonio and a l0-minute walk from the Pelourinho. Pousada do

(Map

Boqueir6o

PousAoAtt

p408; Q71

3241-2262; www.pousada boqueirao.com.br: Dheita de Santo Antdnio rE; d/ste from R$150/230; E) Ttrvo early-2Othcentury houses have beenjoined together to form this elegant guesthouse, tast€fully decorat€d with antiques and artwork Spacious

common rooms back onto a porch with a fantastic bay view, where breakfast is served.

Studio do Carmo BouflQuEHoTELSS (Map p408; 471 X2G2426; wwwstudio

docarmo.com; Ladeira do Carmo 17; d/tr lrom R$218/272; B E ) .Ihe location of this historic boutique hotel is iconic: directly across from the Escadas do Carmo (p406). Tty to

snag the triple room which has a balcony overlooking them. The rooms are large and

II E

416 AFR!CAN SLAVE ARTISANS African slaves played a key role in building the culture of the Pelourinho. Forced to work on their masters'churches, and prohibited from practicing their own religion, these enslaved artisans expressed themselves through their work. At lgreia e Convento Seo Francisco (p405), the faces of the cherubs are distorted, and some angels given noticeably large genitals, while others appear pregnant. Most of these creative touches were chastely covered by 2Oth-century sacristans. The polychrome figure of Sio Pedro da Alcdntara by Manoel ln6cio da Costa shows a figure sutfering from tuberculosis - just like the artist himself. One side of the saint's face is more ashen than the other, so he appears to become more ill as you walk past him. Jos6 Joaquim da Rocha painted the entry hall's ceiling using perspective technique, a novelty during the baroque period. Meanwhile, over at lgreia da Ordem Terceira do Carmo (p406), the artist known as O Cabra (Half-Caste) was hard at work on his infamous statue of Nossa Senhora do Carmo. O Cabra was a slave with no artistic training, and he was reportedly besotted with lsabel ll, daughter of the rich landholder Garcia dAvila. He supposedly modeled the Virgin on lsabel ll's likeness, and gave African facial features to the Christ child cradled in the statue's arms. Could this be what O Cabra imagined their love child would look like? O Cabra took eight years to finish the life-size image of Christ (1630), with blood made from 200O rubies. lt's on display in the church's small museum. a bit outdated, but the hotel has more than enough charm (all of the art on the walls is for sale!) to make up for

it Pestana Convento do Carmo

HoTELS$S

(Map p408; @n 3321-8/010: wwwpestana.com/ enlpestana-convento-do*armo; Rua do Carmo l; stefrom R$a85; Set in a restored

Io I> I-

8trts)

I.

I>

l7tJl.century convent

this

magnificent hotel has elegantly furnished rooms with

-(h

old-world details and modern comforts,

E

and even more impressive common are:$. There's a stone chapel and arched walkways around the cloister. Aram Yami Hotel (Map p404;

Dn

BOUTIQUE

HOTEL$88

3242-9t+12; www.aramyamihotel.

com: Direib de Santo Antonio I32; ste from R$495;

86ts) How about u,king in the sunset from an infinity pool overlooking the bay? The dream is a reality at the exclusive Aram Yami Hotel, a chic urban BBtawaythat's practically a vacation in itself. The terraces offer spectacular views, six suites axe spacious and

plush, and the staff is particularly helpful with planning cultural excursions.

This fantastically colorful and homey place is run by professional artists with deep connections to the local musig dance and film community. Musicians and capoeira demonstrations periodically take place at the hostel, especially during Carnaval, when the guesthouse offers one of Salvador's most memorable paxty experiences. Special packages and classes, including Portuguese language, can be booked thrcugh the hostel. Pousada Estrela do

Mar

(Map

30224882;

p4l7;

AA

PousADAS6

www.estrela domarsalwdor.com; Afonso Celso 119, Bana; d

from R$220; mE) This white stucco house with dark-blue shutters - very Portugal-

meets-the.tropics

-

is surrounded by green-

ery while inside plain white walls set off bright Bahian paintings and vibrant blue tilework The location is close to the bearh on a mellow, tree-shaded street. Pousada Bamboo da

(Map

Barra

PousADASS

paV; E7l 3033-4448; ht$//pousda

bamboodabana.corn.bc Afunso Celso 485; d/t R$153/180: OE) The rooms at this guest-

house (formerb a popular hostel) are small and simplg but the location is fantastic and

lH Barra & Coastal Suburbs the price is right Thavelers apprcciate the Of all the beachside suburbs, happening ftiendly staff and ample outdoor space. Note Barra attracts the m4iorif of visitos due to that the doubles are small and that some of

its proximity to the Felourinho.

*Op"n

House

Barra

pousADAl

p4l7: 071 99142-1285; www.openhouse banz.com; Bemardo Catarino 137 Barra; dm fiom R$44, r withArithout bathroom from R$ll8/69; E ) (Map

the private bathrooms are only separated by a partition, not a door. Pousada Noa

(Map p417;

Noa En 3264-U,E:

pousADASS

www.pousada [email protected] Av Sete de Setembro tt295, Bana: Vd

4t7

SalvadorBarra

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centers. On FYiday and Saturday nights, ceremonies are often held in small homes and shacks in the hills. Tlavelers who are especially interested in learning more should contact the tourist ofhce (p43O) for information about local guides who specialize in this

particular scene. The town also maintains a strong tradition of African-influenced wood carving. Stop in on the ateliers (studios) of two of the best sculptors in town, DoidSo (cnr Ruas 25 de Junho & 7 de Setembro, Cachoeira; & 10am4pm Mon-Fri) and Louco (Rua 13 de Maio, Cachoeira; $10am-4pm Mon-Fri), to get a sense of the local style. Note that, as elsewhere in Bahia, churches are sometimes closed even when their posted opening hours indicate otherwise. Admission is by donation.

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428

Cachoeira& 56o Felix Train Station

Manoel Vitorino

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Centro

(875

Dannemann

cULTURALCENTRE

3438'2500; wwwterradannemann.com; >r Salvador Pinto 29, Sio F6lix; &8:15-ll:45am & U'

o

1-4:45pm Mon-Fri) In its boom times the axea was known for tobacco production, the

E history of which x

is memorialized at this interpretive center where you can even buy a few cigars to take home. Dannemann has been in operation since the late 1800s and remains one of the most well respected cigar manufacturers in Bahia- From here you can also arrange tours to the company's nearby tobacco farm (per person from R$50).

Museu Hansen

(A75 3425-1453:

Bahia

MUSEUM

www.hansenbahia.com.br: Rua 13 de Maio, Cachoeira; S9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to lpm

Sat) l'filfi Karl Heinz Hansen (1915-76) was a German artist who emigxated to Brazil in 1949. He felt such an affinity with his new

home that he had his surnarne changed to 'Hansen Bahia'. Today, this museum displays his powerful block prints and paintings,

many showing the influence of Cachoeira's wood+arving tradition. The striking building is the birthplace and former home of Brazilian heroine Ana Nery who organized the nursin8 corps during the Paraguay War.

lgreja Matriz NS do

Ros6rio

cHURcH

(Nery Vn, Cachoeira;

I8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) This church dates to between f693 and 1754. has beautiful azulejos (handmade tiles imported from Portugal) and a ceiling painted by 1b6filo de Jesus. On the 2nd floor, the Museu das Alfaias contains remnants from the abandoned Vth-century Convento de S5o Flancisco do Paragua4u.

lt

Casa da CAmara e

Cadeia

HrsroRtcBUttDlNG

(Prefecture &Jail; Praga da Aclamagio, Cachoeira;

flilfl 6

the Casa da 9&m-noon & 2-5pm) CAmara e Cadei4 organized criminals ran the show upstairs and disorganized criminals were kept behind bars downstairs. The building dates to 1698 and served as the seat ofthe Bahian government in 1822.

429

6s

Cachoeira& Sflo Felix

ab.r^

@ Sights I Casa da Camara e Cadeia................... F3 2 Centro Dannemann............................ 83 3 Doidao.... E3 4 lgreja da Ordem Terceira do Carmo.................. .......... F3 5 lgreja Matriz NS do Ros6rio..... ,,......,.E2 ..........E2 6 Louco...,....,...... 7 Museu Hansen Bahia................ .,.,.,,..,E2

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Eating rO Aclamaqao Restaurante...................... E3 11 Pai Thomaz E3 12 Restaurante Rabbuni .......................... E3

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noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri,8am-noon Sat)

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Pousada

*d

JoSo

FoLKLoRrc

(&3rd week Jun) The largest popular festival of Bahia's int€rior, celebrated with folklore, music, dancing and a generous amount of food and

(Smid-Oct)

A

Ros6rio

RELrGrous

religious festival featuring

great music and food.

Restaurante

BRAZILTANS

Praga da Aclamagio 2, Cachoe-

R$7-13, mains R$20-35;

*11am-

l0pm) This busy corner eatery offers a range of great-value sandwiches, acai and

traditional Bahian dishes. Tly the sandwich named after the nearby river, Rio Paragua4u,

piled high with bacon, cheese, grilled chick-

Sleep:ng

en, beef, tomatoes and lettuce.

Pousada do Convento do Carmo pousADAi (@ 7 5 3 425 -17 16; www. pousadadoconvento.com. br: Praga da AclamagSo, Cachoeira; s/d from R$85/120; The l8th-century convent attached to the lgreja da Ordem Ter-

ts69)

ceira do Carmo

e"ting

AclamagSo (275U25-3428; ira; sandwiches

Festa de NS DAjuda RELrcrous (Smid-Nov) Features arif,ta) laoagerz (washing) ofthe church and a street festival.

lI

a breezy place to enjoy the ample breakfast buffet, or, at night, Bahian food or pizzain its restaurant.

\

drink

Festa de NS do

PousADAs

www.pousadaparaguassu.com.

br: Salvador Pinto 3, Sio F6lix; s/d from R$ll0/150; EE) l,ocated on the riverfront in Sdo F61ix, Paraguassrl has basic, cozy roorns surrounding a small gaxden. The riverside terrace is

Festivals & Events

Festa de 56o

(Praga daAclamagio;

&8am-

Restaurante

Rabbuni

BRAZTLTANS

(Praca da AclamaEao, Cachoeira; per kg R$32.90; &11:30am-3pm Mon-Fri) A cheerful and popu-

lar buffet lunch spot on the square.

E

-

C)

Paraguassri

(E75 3438-3369; l.

EEB has

been converted into a comfortable guesthouse, with no loss of atmosphere. Rooms are spacious, with tall ceilings and heavy wood floors. The classy on-site restaurant, A Confraria (&llam-10pm), is open to the public.

Rvkgi\roReis,

c)

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tl30 Pai Thomaz

NORTH OF SALVADOR

BAHIANsS (@7 5 3425-3182: www.pousadapaithomaz.com.br: Bahia's Vinte e Cinco de Junho 12, Cachoeira: mains R$47-

69; 911am-l1pm; @) Pai Thomaz (the nickname ofthe original owner) opened in l98l and was famous for its superbly spiced Bahian cuisine. The restaurant closed in 2005 and was reopened in 2015 under new management, but with the same popularity. You can get excellent moquecas (seafood stew) and admire wood carvings from local artists Doidao (pa27) and Iouco (p427) which decorate the wa]ls. Although the name of the restaurant is the siune as the titular character in the Porruguese translatiot of Uncle Tom's Cabin,lhe theme of the restaurant bears no relation.

!

orinring & Nightlife

Bar do

Reggae

BAR

s/n; &Spm-late) On warm evenings, everyone and his brother is sitting at these sidewalk tables, drinking beer and (Virgilio R6is

enjoying a starlit view of the river.

Point

Baiana's (A75 3425-4967;

IIo

RESTAURANTBAR

Virgilio Reis, Cachoeira;

S

9am-

l0pm) Perched on scenic stilts over the river, this restaurant makes a great setting for an early-evening drink - if you can get anyone to serve you (service is painfully slow).

I> II>

7'!J

northern coast is not as startling as its southern, but the beaches here are still lovely, boasting tall bluffs with rustling palms and white sands (that grow finerthe further north you go), which front a mix of calm inlets and wild surfable breaks. Keep in mind that when salzLadorenos want a day at the beach, they naturally head for Bahia's northem mast. As a result the sands close to the ciry get packed on weekends. To escape the crowds, head further north, where there are many kilometers of deserted pristine shoreline. The Estrada do Coco (Coconut Hwy) runs as far north as Praia do Forte, where the Linha Verde (Green Une) picks up, continu-

ing a]l the way to the Sergipe border. You may feel that you are going against the grain ifyou axe trying to access this coast heading north to south. Grassy mediaas in the highways require buses to pass town entrances and then

double back, so few do. Instead, they drop pffisengers on the highway, Ieaving you to walk or pick up other transportation into the small towns and fishing communities along this stretch of coast. Thaveling ftom south to north is a much smoother process.

Praiado Forte Eoxxzt z poptgoo

@ lnformation 0 o =

3 7 --{

Both 56o F6lix and Cachoeira have banks with ATMs, including a reliable Bradesco Bank (Praga Dr Milton, Cachoeira) branch in Cachoeira. For more information on the towns' history, river excursions or church visits, stop into the helpful tourist ofrice (Tourist lnformation; Ana Nery 4, Cachoeira; S 8am-noon & 2-5pm MonFri) in Cachoeira.

{S Cetting There & Away These twin towns are served by nearly identical bus stations, positioned directly across the river from each other at each base of the bridge: most trips commence on the Slo F6lix (Av Salvador Pinto, Sio Felix) side, stopping to pick up passengers in Cachoelra (Virgilio R6is 482-612, Cachoeira) before continuing out of town.

Numerous daily buses run to Salvador (R$22 two hours, 5:30am to 7pm), stopping in Santo Amaro along the way. To make connections north, south or west, you can also catch one ofTransporte Santana's various daily services to Feira de Santana (R$ll, 172 hours, six daily Monday to Saturday, five on Sunday).

Beloved by tourists, upmarket Praia do Forte

is an attractive and somewhat ecologically sensitive beach village overflowingwith stylish restaurants and shops. The main drag,

Alameda do Sol,

is a pedestrian wallavay

that leads to an incredibly picturesque and pint-sized church, a sea-turtle reserve and fantastic, palm-lined beaches with sparkling white sands that filI up on weekends. Surrounding the village are castle ruins, a lagoon for canoeing and the Sapiranga forest reserve, which has hiking and biking trails and a zip line. If you can, time your visit for the full moon and walk along the beach past the resort at sunset, when the sun turns the

waters of the Rio Timeantube red as the moon rises over the sea

O

sigtrts & Activities

Peters

p RK Parque Klaus (9 6am-6pm) EEB Just outside of town you'll find the dramatic entrance for this charming mastal park - a long wooden bridge over a buzzing lagoon. Inside the park is a 3.4km trail that takes you across a small island and then back to the mainland, ending at some

431 THE SEA TURTLES OF TAMAR There are only five remaining species of sea turtle left in the world - and all of them live on the Bahian coast. A true highlight of any trip through the region is a visit to the sea-turtle reserve that's dedicated to protecting loggerhead, hawksbill, olive ridley and green tudles - and their adorably tiny babies. Of the 18 stations in Bahia run by the nonprof it organization Projeto Tamar (the name is an abbreviation for the Portuguese word for sea turtle, tartaruga marinha), the Praia do Forte station (p432) is perhaps the most impressive, exhibiting pools with marine turtles of various sizes and species, as well as urchins, eels and other sea life. Outside the station itself, the most important action happens on the shoreline during the turtles'nesting season (September to March). Tamar researchers protect around 550 nests a year along 50km of coast close to Praia do Forte. The moist, leathery, pingpong-ball-size eggs are buried in the sand when laid and either left on the beach or brought to the hatcheries for incubation. When they hatch, the baby turtles are immediately released Into the sea. Though this system allows some 500,000 baby turtles to hatch each year in Bahia, only several hundred will reach adulthood. A trip to the reserve, located just behind the church on Praia do Forte's main square, is interactive and family friendly; take your time and have an outdoor lunch beside the ocean at Souza Bar (p432), located inside the project station.

natural pools on the beach. Along the way axe signs identiffing flora and faunaCastelo do Garcia d'Avila (871 3676-[33; www.fgd.org.br;

RUrNs

Avenida do Farol

1540; R$10; &8am-noon &2-6pm Mon-Fri) Dating from 1552, the Castelo was the first great

Portuguese edifice in Brazil. Desperat€ to colonize, the king of Portugal granted lands

to

merchants, soldiers and aristocrats; a farmer named Garcia dAvilA endowed with this tract of land, chose this ocean-view plot for his home. Today, it's an impressive ruin with sweeping views. It's 7km outside of

town-takeataxi.

Sapiranga

Reserva da HTKTNG 71 99&$339; www.fgd.org.bn R$10 guided tours R$15-100; 89am-5pm) About 25km outside of Praia do Forte just off of the LinhaVerde is the Reserva da Sapirang4 where guides take visitors along trails skirting through 600 hectares of secondary Atlantic rainforest. Hikes range from 30 minutes to five hours, with one of the more popular hikes leading down to the Rio Pojuca @ring your swimsuit). There have been recent reports of armed robberies happening within the reserve, so

(E

it's prudent to ask around town about the current safety warnings before going.

@Tours Wortlwhile tours in the area include hiking and bird-warching treks, canopy tours, kayaking and whale-watching (in season). A handful of professional outfitters such as

Portomar (D

71 3676-0101; www.portomar.com.

br; Rua da Aurora 1; tours per person from R$70; &&m-6pm) handle these trips and run popular excursions at low tide to nearby piscina.s Tlaturais (natloral pools), where you ci[r snorkel or scuba dive around a colorful coral reef.

ll

B

;

Sleeping

Praia do Forte has an abundance of attractive

T D

midrange guesthouses that fill to capacity on summer weekends. Prices here are more (, expensive than many other destinations in o you'll Bahia, though save by visiting during o the week. Rua da Auror4 paraJlel to Alame- D da do So1, has a handful of more affordable Ir

-

pousadas.

*c"t"

Verde

Apart

APARTMENTSS

(871

3676-1531; www.casaverdeapart.com; Rua do Peixe Espada 100; apt for 2,/4 people from R$266/109; In a leafu setting near the beach, these six attractive and spacious apartrnents are complete with well+quipped

86)

kitchens and balconies with hammocks. The place is managed by a gracious couple; breakfast is available on request, for an extra fee.

Shanti House

(871

Apart

APARTMENTS$

99959-0,142; wwwshantihouseapart.com: Rua da Maria Mole 14; studio for 2 with/without balcony R$282/262, duplex for 4 R$353;

6 E ) If

you're traveling in a group this is one of the better deals in town. Each apartment has a kitchen and, with the exception of the most standard studio, all apartments aJso feature a private balcony with hammock. All include

432 access to the centra.l swimming pool and are close to the beach.

Praia do Forte

(E7l

Hostel

HosTELgg

3676-1094; www.albergue.com.br; Rua da

EE)

This popular hostel has a convenient location, clean rooms facing onto a grassy courtyard, and a good breakfast spread. Rental bikes and surfAurora 155; dmld R$80/245;

boards are available too. Air IID I

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{S Cetting There & Away 7

a C r z c)

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T o 0

BUS The bus station (Av Sr dos Passos s/n) is north of the center. lf coming lrom the south, the lourney, though indirect, will be a lot quicker if you route through Salvador or Feira de Santana. Real Expresso (E 75 3334-1112: www.realexpresso. com.br) runs a few buses daily from Salvador (R$85, seven to eight hours). The same buses can be caught in Feira de Santana (R$63). Be sure to bring a sweater for the iourney: these buses are notorious for blasting the air-conditioning. CAR Leng6is is 13km off Hwy BR-242, the main Salva-

=

dor-Brasilia route. There's a gas station22km east ol Leng6is on Hwy BR-242, in Tanquinho. The drive from Salvadorto Lencois takes aboutfive to

--{

six hours.

z.

z.

Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina 1520 sq km of the Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina (www.guiachapada

Within the

diamantina.com.br) Ef,EE, waterfalls cascade over the Sincora Bange's mountains and plateaus, dropping into rivers and streams that

Day Trips & Hikes The most popular day trip into the park is to the top of Brazil's tallest waterfall, Cachoeira da Fumaga (Smoke Waterfall), so named because beforc it has plummet€d the entire 42Om, the water evaporates into mist. This 6km hike requires aguide, so mntact an agency in Len@is. Alternatively, start from the closest village, CapSo (80km west of knq6is by road), which has a number of pousadas and afewtravel agencies. The nearby mystical Vale do Capeq or Caet6-Aqu, has attract€d an intemational communiw of folks interested in an alternative, back-to-theland lifestyle. Hikers may want to take the trail along

Barro Branco between knq6is and Morro do Pai ln6rcio, an 1120m peak affording a brilliant view over a plateau-fiIled valley. Allow four or five hours one way for the hike. Just southwest of l,en@is, upstream from Ribeirdo do Meio, is the lovely Gachoeira do Soss6go waterfall, with a deep pool at its base and rock lefues for diving. The ?km hike

involves a great deal of stone-hopping along

the riverbed and should not be attempted without a guide, or when rain or high water has made the lichen-covered rocks slippery. Gruta do LapSo is one ofthe largest sandstone caves in South Americaand is just askm hike north of l.eng6is. A guide is required. 'Chapada's Pantanali or Marimbus, is a

marshy microregion 94km south of l€ngois where you ciul canoe or kayak while fishing for tucunard (peacock bass) and keeping a lookout for capybxas and jacards (caimans).

Longer Hikes Navi8ating the correct routes for the longer treks in the park can be very difEcult, so going on a guided tour (p460) is strongly recommended. Tieks organized with a guide

can last anywhere from two to eiSht days,

463 and can be custom fitted to the $oup. They

usually involve a combination of camping and staying in local homes and pousadas. Some popular hikes a.re the Base of Fumae a, an extremely beautiful yet tiring 36km trek that traverses the park from trnqois to CapSo in three days. Detours to other waterfalls are taken along the way, in addition to reaching the base of Cachoeira da Fumaga. An extra day can be added walking back to knqois or you car continue with the Grand circuit. Be forewarned that the area around Fuma4ab base gets extremely crowded at times, so you may find yourself sharing your sleeping cave with unexpected companions. Another popular option is the Vale do Pati hike. This recommended hike starts and ends in VaIe do CapIo, and can la.st from four to six days depending on detours. You are likely to have the trails to yourself here, and the views over the plains and Chapada's table mountains are spectacular. Stopping in at a local home for a meal or a night is a possibility; it's much easier to negotiate if you're traveling with a local guide.

Grand Circuit The Grand Circuit ofthe park covers about 100km, best done in a countercloclavise direction. It takes about five days, but at least eight days are required to include side trips. Especially if you're not caxrying all of your own camping equipment and food, go with a guide, who can axrirnge overnight stays and meals in locals'homes along the way.

On the first day, make the hike from Ienq6is to Vale do Cap6o (25km, about seven hours); on the way, you can take a side trip to the top of Cachoeira da Fumaga. In the visitor-friendly Vale do Capdo, you c:rn ciunp or stay at a pousada such as the eco-minded Pousada Pd no Mato, offering peaceful and a.ffordable dorms, private rooms and freestanding cabins, plus an on-site tour agency that can help you plan almost any adventure in the park

Flom the Bomba neighborhood of Vale do Capdo, continue on to cross the plains region of Gerais do Vieira and the Rio Preto highlands to the Vale do Pati. You can camp overnight on the plains; if you re with a guide, you ll probably stay ovemight in a local home. You can power on in one day to Andarai, or take a recommended day or two to explore the VaIe do Pati, checking out the gorgeous waterfall Cachoeirio and the Morro do Castelo mountain before moving on. Once in Andarai, side trips to Pogo En-

cantado (56km from Andaral) and the

intriguing diamondcra stone ruins in lgat0 (12km from Andaraf) are highly recommended. In Andarai, either camp or check into cozy Pousada Sincor5- You can go for a dip at the nearby river beaches along the Bjo Paragua-

cu or take the short hike to Cachoeira do Ramalho, a 90m waterfall. In Igatf, take the two-hour hike along the Rampa do Caim for sweepingviews over the Vale do Pati. You can spend the night at the charming Flor de Agucen4 offering campsites, guest rooms built into the roclty hillside, abundant gxeenery and striking views, with a trail leading down to the river. Most choose to drive from Andaxai t0 l,eng6is as the walk is on an unint€resting dirt road. If you decide to walh allow wo days, campingthe first night near Rio Roncador.

l,H Sleeping There arre many guesthouses in the region, while camping or sleeping in the park's small caves is free and can be done without a permit. Ifyou are planning a longer hike with a guide, you may also be able to arrarge homestays. Pousada P6 no Mato (87533441105; wwwpenomato.com.br;

pousADAS Rua

daVila

Eco-minded Pousada P6 no Mato offers peareful and af-

2, Caet6-Aeu; dm/d from R$65/l4O)

fordable dorms, private rooms and freestanding cabins, plus an on-site tour agency that can help you plan almost any adventure.

Flor de

(475

Agucena

98274-04A8;

$

; !

F

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PousADAgS

www.pousadaflordeacucena.

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Agucena has wiltlly natural rooms built into the roclg hillside, abundant greenery and striking views, with a trail to the river.

z.

-o

comi 7 de Setembro a8-126,lgati: d from R$210;

In Igatu, the charming Hospedagem Flor

c) pousADAS$

-

3335-2210; www.sincora.com.br; Paraguagu Andaraf; d/lr lrom R$175/220; Cozy

E I

Pousada

Sincor6

(875 20,

BE)

guesthouse renowned for its delicious breakfast and friendly owners who speak English. It also has guides who run a river inner-tubing operation just out of town (two.hour innertube ride R$30).

(S Cetting There & Around Local bus service for the region is infrequent and can be tricky to navigate, so ifyou do plan on exploringthe park a car rental is worth considering. Guides can often provide transportation and there are taxis available in most of the towns, including Leng6is. lf you have a specific destination in mind it's a good idea to ask your hotel for recommendations on how to get there.

o z

-t

z.

rlf. /

I

r

SergiBe &Alagoas

POP 3,3M

lncludes

Why Go?

*

Sergipe...,...........

.. ...466

Aracaju..,....................466 Alagoas .............. ........

47

0

Macei6................ ........ 470 Praia do Franc6s. ....... 477

Penedo............... ........ 478

Maragogi.............. . .480

Best Places

to Eat .

Cariri (p469)

+ Sushi Bowl (p473)

) r r

Janga(p474)

Overshadowed by big Bahia to the south, the tiny states of Sergipe and Alagoas have long been overlooked by ffavelers. But it's a tendency that's changing - in the past few years, the thoroughly likable coastal city of Macei6 has emerged as a buzzing vacation destination for Brazil. Still, despite the influx of ecofriendly pousadas (guesthouses) and s$ish restaurants, there remain plenty of isolated, paradise-like stretches of white sand, emerald waters, swaying palms and quaint villages along Alagoas' coast. Inland travel appeals to history-minded travelers: Penedo is a charming riverfront town with picturesque colonial churches and hilly cobblestone streets. Fllrther south, Sergipe's provincial capital has fewer attractions of its own, but Aracaju serves as a gateway to more sleepy colonial towns. In these off-the-beaten-path harnlets, historic Uth-century churches attest to the region's prominence in the early days of European settlement in Brazil.

Wanchako (p475) Odoi5 (p481)

W'hen to Go Maceio

Best Places to Stay . Macei6 Mar Hotel(o472) r Pousada Olho D'5gua (pa81)

.

Hotel Sao Francisco @479)

Rainlell rnches/mm

'Cl'FTmp

NllM30/86

-

20/@10/50-

o*l

-20l500

! rlr t I

Jr

+ Pousada Ricardinho do Frances (p477)

Dec-Feb High

r

season brings crowds of domestic tourists to Macei6 and Aracaju.

Pousada do Sol (p468)

a a

tt! !

I Mar-Aug Temperatures remain high and periods of rain are likelyt hotel prices drop.

-16/400

!

*,,,00 -8l200 _4/100

I & K_n o

N

D

Sep-Nov Near-perfect weather and few tourists: an ideal time to visit.

465

History During the invasion by the Dutch in 1630, many slaves took advantage of the confusion and escaped to the mountains behind the coasts of northern Alagoas and southern Pernambuco. Where the Alagoan towrs of Atalaia, Capela, Viqos4 Uni6o dos Pal-

mares and Porto Calvo stand today, virgin forests with fruit and wildlife once provided for colonies of runaway slaves. Palmares, the mightiest republic of escaped slaves, Ied by the former African king Zumbi, covered present-day Alagoas and Pernambuco. In the ISth and lgth centuries,

OLajedo

HI

Catende O

F oGaranhuns

o o o de

an f

U'

-t o 7 do Frscer Sao Miguel

do Gunga de Coruripe Deserto Peba

l'o; tlo Srio

Frarcisrp

ATLANTIC OC EAN

Barreto

Sergipe & Alagoas Highlights O Macei6 (p470) Pedaling a bike along friendly beach paths, or taking a jangada (boat) into the ocean to explore natural pools created by offshore reefs. O

Aracaiu (p+06)Feasting

on fresh crabs and listening to traditional forrd music in

the open-air eaterles.

@ Penedo (p478) Exploring the colonial churches and cobblestone streets of the historic city. @ Prala do Franc6s (p478) Enioying a moqueca after a morning of exploring tidal pools. @ Laranieiras & S5o Crlst6vto (p467) Walking down winding streets to

discover stunning examples of colonial-era architecture.

O

Maragogi (p480)

Snorkeling the colorful coral reefs miles offshore.

O

Pnaadocunga(p47l)

Boarding a dune buggy for a joyride along the smooth white sands of Praia do Gunga.

466 sugarcane and cotton brought the region prominence; today, su8arcane is still an important crop in the area, alongside oranges and cassava, though tourism is making inroads in Macei6. Unfortunately, the states are also known for extreme poverw in the interior and rampant corruption.

l= g. F

o o o

SERGIPE

History The seat of state government was moved from S5o Crist6vao to Aracaju in 1855, in part because of its good, deep harbor - badly needed to handle large ships transporting sugax to Europe - and because residents of the old capital were on the verge of armed revolt. Within a year, an epidemic broke out and decimated Aracaju's population, which

the residents of SAo Crisbvao naturally

saw i$ an omen that the new capital had a Brazil's smallest state, Sergipe is a land doomed future. The city received a makeof sugarcane fields with a coastline of over in the early 19O0s with the advent of swamp, mangtrove and sandy shores. In streetcars and other urbanizing elements. addition to attractive beaches just south of

the state's capital Aracaju, Sergipe is home

O

sigtrts

fr to the sleepy, photogenic settlement of Pal5cio Museu Olimpio Campos MUSEUM (0 79 3198t451; www.palacioolimpiocampos.se.go/. o Laranjeiras.

Ic

@ Cetting There & Away Hwy BR-101 skirts the coastline of both Sergipe and Alagoas between 25km and 50km inland. It is the main thoroughfare through the region and the chosen route of most long-distance buses. The main airports in the region are in

the capital cities, Aracaju and Macei6.

@ cetting Around As is the norm in the Northeast, there is always some form of transportation between where you are and where you need to go: buses, Kombi vans (aka bestas) and taxis colectivos (collective taxis). ln this area, it pays to be communicative and flexible, as kansportation is less formal than in some other areas of Brazil.

Arac4iu

Eoxxtg t PoP632.700 Though Aracaju's coastline attracts Brazilians for weekend getaways, the ciff isn't much of a draw for international tourists. Still, ifyou're looking for a relaxing beach vacation in a ciW environment, it's worth considering. You'Il find a few points of interest in the historic cente! including the picturesque main square with its towering cathedral. But most ofthe historic center is a utilitarian business district. The beaches are the real attraction in Aracaju. In the ciW there are several miles of lovely coastline, and, especially in the off-season, you won't find it as hectic as other large cities. Along the beach you'll find a growing number of restaurants and hotels popping up

to meet tourism demands.

br;

Praga Fausto Cardoso; Ol0am-5pm TueFri)

EEB ttris museum is located in the former residence for the governor of Sergipe and has

room after room of exhibits and well-preserved furniture and decorations, Make sure not to miss the light-up map detailing the layout ofAracaju's historic center in the early 20th century. Admission is free and comes with a guided tour. It's not a Suaxantee, but you may find a guide who speals English.

Museu de Gente

Sergipana

MUSEUM

(Sergipe People's Museum; 879 3218-1551: www. museudagentesergipana.com.br; Av lvo do Prado 398; &l0am-4pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; [0)

EE

Creative exhibits detail the geology, culture and history ofthe state of Sergipe at this museum located in a historic building on the river. There are lots of interactive elements that should be a thrill for kids.

Oceanirio

AQUARTUM

(A79 3243-3214; www.tamar.org.br; Santos

Du-

mont 1010, Atalaia; adulVchild R$20l10; &9am9pm Tue-Sun, l0am-6pm Mon) The Thmar Project's small, interesting Oceanario has tanks with sea turtles, rays and eels as well as ex-

amples of specific local freshwater environments and their species.

Centro Cultural de

Aracaju

cULTURALcENTRE

(@79 321+53f.7; Av Rio Branco, Historic Center;

&&m-Spm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-1pm SaO Efg Here you ll find several fun exhibits on Sergipe's culture, including puppet art and the reconstruction of a formerly long-lost early 2oth-century carousel that used to operate in the city. Few of the exhibits have English translations, but you may find an Englishspeaking guide working the day you visit.

r@

461

LARANJEIRAS Positioned between three grassy, church-topped hills, Laranjeiras is the colonial gem of Sergipe and, together with Sao Crist6vao. it makes a short and sweet side trip from Aracaju for travelers interested in Sergipe's history. lt's short on significant tourist attractions but long on visual interest - ideal for travelers interested in photography. First settled in 1605, Laranjeiras became the commercial center for its surrounding verdant sugar and cotton fields during the 18th and 19th centuries. At one point there were more than 60 sugar mills in and around Laranjeiras sending sugar down the Rio Cotinguiba to Araca.iu for export to Europe. With a quiet grandeur, Laranjeiras has picturesque cobblestone roads, colonial buildings with intricate wood-carved doorways and terracotta roofs. From the higher points in town, there are lovely views over the meandering Rio Cotinguiba. The whole town seems unblemished by modern development; the surrounding countryside hides crumbling ruins of old sugar mills and estates. Facing the bus station, the Trapiche is an imposing 19th-century structure that historically held cargo waiting to be shipped downriver. At the top of Alto do Bonfim (Bonfim Heights) is the picturesque 1gth-century lgreja NS do Bonfim. Although the church is often closed, the fine views make it worth the climb. ln town you'll f ind two small museums well worth a visit. The Museu de Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred An; D79 3281"2486; Praga Dr Herdclito Diniz Gongalves 39, Laranjeiras; R$6; 810am-2pm Tue-Fri) contains several rooms filled with historic religious art from the

Catholic church and the Museu Af ro-Brasileiro (@793281-2418: )os6 do Prado Franco 70, Laranjeiras; R$6; S10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) details the history of African transplants to Brazil, including the country's brutal history of slavery. Upriver 4km from town is the baroque lgreja de Comandaroba, constructed by Jesuits in 1734. Unfortunately, the church hasn't been well-maintained, and you're unlikely to see inside. A 1km tunnel leads from the church to the Gruta da Pedra Furada, a large cave built by the Jesuits to escape their persecutors. lf you happen to be in the area in January during the last week of the month, Laranjeiras hosts the Festa de Reis (also called Encontro Cultural), a religious and folklore festival of traditional music and dance. More folklore revelry occurs during Semana Folcl6rico (Folklore Week), usually the second week of August. You can also catch colorful religious processions during Semana Santa (Holy Week; the week preceding Easter). To get here from Aracaju head to the Rodoviaria Velha and look for the Coopertalse bus headed for Laranjeiras (R$3.70,35 minutes). They leave frequently.

Mercado

Municipal

MARKET

(Jose do Prado Franco s/n, Centro; $6am-6pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) At the colorful Merca-

do Municipal, locals sell and barter a wide range of goods; if you're passing through downtown around lunchtime, stop in for a casual meal and people-watching.

7i g"""t""

(I8km) is the prettiest and most secluded beach nearby.

@

Tours

Ircal travel

agencies offer a variety of day

tours, including cfiamaxan trips on the Rio S5o Francisco to the gxeen waters of

the canyon of Xing6, or to the Foz do 56o Francisco, where the river meets the sea. A With rustling palms and a relative lack of tour is also a pretty good way to check out buildings, Praia Atalaia Nova (6km across difficult-toreach Mangue Seco (pr1{}2), on the the Rio Sergipe, southeast of the center), border with Balia- Bird enthusiasts will enis generally calmer than the city beaches joy a visit to the Parque dos Falc6es (879 to the south, namely Praia dos Artistas 99962-8396; www.parquedoshlcoes.com.br; BR 235 (7km), Praia Atalaia (gkm) and Praia s/n, ltabaiana; adulUchildren R$25l15), a reserve Aruana (llkm). These beaches are heavi- located 46km from Aracaju. Most tours are ly developed but are popular with locals; R$75-130 per person ard you will be pooled they are also good sources of inexpensive with other people who purchased from difseafood. Further south, Praia do Ref0gio ferent companies. Nozes Tur (47932$-An:

HI F o o ut

7

()

IC

468 www.nozestur.com.br: Santos Dumont 340, Atalaia: tours from R$130; 8gam-midnight) is a solid ifyou are looking for a place to book

{d

restlvals & Events Joio

Festa de Sio

li F

o o o 7 c)

T C

(&Jun)

bet

0ULTURAL

Ihe largest festival in Aracaju runs

for the entire month of June and includes forrd (a music and dance style of the Northeast) bands and quadrilha (a tlpe of

live

square dancing) presentations.

Sleeping

The majority ofAracaju's hotels are along the

beachfront in the Atalaia neighborhood. If you're staying on the beach, remember that the mastline is several miles long. Most visitors are happiest staying on the far northern end in the district of Coroa de Meio, or on the far southern side neax the Passarela do Caranguejo, though there are plenty ofpousadas (guesthouses) in between. Hotel

(879

Jangadeiro

HoTELg

3211-1350; www.langadeirose.com.br; Santa Luzia269, Centro: s/d from R$137l167:

BAg)

lrcated a few blocks south of the historic center's main plaza, this business-style hotel is dated but serviceable, good for a quick overnight stay in Aracaju. In-room perks include new bed linens, fluffi pillows and flat-screen TVs.

Mercure Aracaju del

(879

Mar

HoTELSS

2106-9100: www.delmarhotel.com.br; Santos Dumont 1500, Atalaia; d from R$220: ts 6 E )

This

contemporary high-rise, featuring minimalist interior design, several bars and restaurants, and a large swimming pool

complete with waterfalls and a bar, is a slick

addition to Atalaial waterftonu itt usually occupied by business travelers, but it's also family-friendly. Pousada do

(E

Sol

PousADASS

79 3226-5500; www.hotelpousadadosol.com.br;

r/chalet trom R$214/231: @68) This well-located guesthouse, a stone's throw from many of Atalaia's waterfTont attractions, is a travelers' favorite. Expect simple, spotless and Eng Francisco Manoel de Costa 43, Atalaia;

Encantare

PousADAS$

3243-7045; www.fucebook.com/Pousada. Ola: Niceu Dantas 618, Atalaia; d from R$202; EEB) This simple, effrciently run guesthouse is one of several located near the Passarela do Caranguejo (Crab lane), offering easy access to the beach and some ofAracaju's best dining and drinking options.

Pousada Mirante Das

(879 br;

Bom Jesus dos Navegantes cULTURAL (& I Jan) On New Year's Day a huge fleet of fishing boats sails along the Rio Sergipe following the image of their patron saint to celebrate Bom Jesus dos Navegantes.'

!l

Pousada

(A79

Aguas

pousADASS

3255-26f0:

www.mirantedasaguas.com. Delmiro Gouveia 711, Coroa do Meio; d R$161;

B ED tr ) Tlvo blocks from the waterfront, the Pousada Mirante das Aguas has standard rooms and family-friendly amenities, including

a games

room. The location in Coroa

do Meio is about midway between downtown and the Passarela do Caranguejo access either by a long walk or short bus or taxi ride.

)(

e"ting

Although its restaurant scene is not as big a draw as Salvador or Macei6, you'll find a number of great places to east in Ara4aju. Make sure to head down the wat€rfront south of Atalaia where you'll find the popular Passarela do Caranguejo (Crab Iane), a row of open-sided restaurants facing the wa-

t€rfront that serve the respected local dish the locals'favorite is Cariri.

Burgeria (www.facebook.com/goburgeria;

-

BURGERSS

Travessa Benjamin

Constant 98, Centro; burgers R$10-24; Sllam8pm Mon-Fri, lOam-3pm Sat) Burgeria is a new addition to the dull restaurant scene in the

historic center. This small spot pretty much only does burgers, but they are juicy with perfectly melted cheese and thick buns. It's a great pick for lunch if you're in the area sightseeing. Los

Palitos

(479

ICECREAMS

3025-2005; www.facebook.com/lospalitos

brasil: Av Santos Dumont 1329; desserts R$8-24; S1-10pm Tue-Thu & Sun, to llpm Fri & Sat) Care-

fully constructed sundaes overloaded with ingredients and topped with a signature Mexican-sMe popsicle are on offer at this beachfront ice-cream shop. The sundaes are big enough for nvo. If you just want a taste you can buy the popsicles separately.

il Sordo (An nn:I258.;

GELAToS

bright guest rooms, a pleasant swimming

www.fucebook.com/ilsordme; Store 3, Josd Ramos da Silva 303; medium gelato R$13; S10am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri, to

pool and terrace, and a children's play area-

10pm Sat)

This cheery shop is well known in

469 Aracaju for its delicious, creamy gelato and the fact that it's entirely statred by deaf indi-

($ Cetting There & Away

viduals. It's a 2O-minute walk or short cab ride from the historic center.

AIR

Madre Deli

(479

Caf6

oAFE$

98827-7355; wwwfacebook.comlmadre

delicafe; Av Santos Dumont 641: dishes $15-25;

STam-l0pm Tue-Sun) Check

out this hip

2nd-floor cafe that specializes in Mexican-inspired sandwiches and desserts. They have a small breakfast menu and daily specials.

Rep0blica dos

(879

Camar6es

sEAFooDgS

3255-3361; Av Santos Dumont 10, Coroa do Meio; mains R$32-55; 01lam-4pm & 6-11pm Mon-Fri, l1:30am-11:30pm Sat, 11:30am-9pm Sun)

Fresh, creatively prepared shrimp are the specialty at this popular waterfront restaurant, located within easy walking distance of many beachfront pousadas; it's a safe bet for a good seafood dinner.

*Cariri

sEAFooD$ss

(479

3243-1379; www.cariri-se.com.br; Santos Dumont 530, Atalaia; mains R$60-92; S 11:30am-

If

you have only one night in Aracaju, Cariri is the place to be for a taste of local culture. This famed Northeastern restaurant on the Passarela do Caranguejo features live.forr6 music in the traditional style of p6 d,e serra (Luis Gonzaga's signature 'foothills'/o116). T\e show begins at 8pm. late)

Bada

Grill

BRAZ|L|ANSS8

(479 3223-3664;

Santos Dumont 526, Atalaia; mains R$60-90; &11:30am-1:30am Tue-Thu, to ?am Fri & Sat, to midnight Sun) Located just

north of the Passarela do Caranguejo and across the street from the beach, this casually elegant eatery has a breezy open terrace that's inviting for happy hour drinks and petiscos (snacks) such as the popular lambretas gratinadas (clams baked in cheese).

(S Orientation Aracaju's Centro sits on the Rio Sergipe, guarded from the ocean by a sandy barrier island, the llha de Santa Luzia. To the south, past the river mouth, are the city beach neighborhoods of Coroa do Meio, Jardim Atlantico (Praia dos Artistas) and Atalaia, collectively referred to as the orla (waterfront). Most of the action and nightlife is concentrated in these suburban neighborhoods.

(E 0800-280-0465; www.voegol.com.br) and LATAM (41-866-435-9526; www.latam. com) can fly or connect you to other Brazilian cities from Aracaju's airport (AJU:@7932128500), llkm south of the center. A taxi to the airport from the center will cost about R$60. From the Rodovidria Velha, take the Aeroporto city bus. GOL

BUS

Most long-distance buses leave from the RoRodovi6rio Govanador Jos6 Rollemberg Leite; 879 3238-3900;Av President Tancredo Neves, Capucho), 6km east of the center. Aguia Branca (p450) and Rota (www.rotatransportes.com.br) each offer 11 daily departures to Salvador (R$72 to R$105, four to six hours). Rota buses also go to Macei6 (R$52, four to five hours. four daily), as do Real Alagoas (879 3259-2832; www.realalagoas.com.br) buses (R$62, four hours, three daily). Aguia Branca goes to Penedo (R$20, three hours, one daily.)

doviiria Nova (Terminal

@ Cetting Around BUS & TAXI There are two main bus stations: Rodovidria Nova, where buses come and go from other cities, and Rodovi6ria Velha (Terminal Rodovi6rio Governador Luiz Garciai A79 3238-29001 Av 7 de Setembro), located downtown, where you can catch buses and minibuses to smaller towns and destinations near Aracaju. From Rodovi6ria Nova, catch a bus into the city from a large shelter with a series of triangular roofs beside the station. Buses marked 'Centro' take you downtown. Alternatively, catch a taxi to downtown for around R$30, or to the beaches for around R$40-50. The city buses (R$3.25) are sometimes infrequent, but safe and good options for traveling from the beaches to the historic center. lf going from the beach to the historic center, walk inland to Av Mario Jorge Menezes Vi6ira. lf you're in the centro head over to Av lvo do Prado along the river and look for line No 51, marked 'Atalaia/ Centro.'When in doubt, simply look for buses thatadvertise either'Centro' or'Atalaia.' Most buses have the highlights of their route printed on the side by the door. CAR Find a range of car-rental agencies along Atalaia's waterfront: these agencies do steady business, as many destinations in the region are much easier to visit with your own car than by

public transportation.

HI

lc

o o aa

n C)

-

C

470

ALAGOAS POP 3.3M

ll F

G'

o o o

tr

o

Despite its diminutive size there's much to recommend the small state of Alagoas. Its star attraction is the city of Macei6 with lovely shoreline and a burgeoning dining and drinking scene. Further afield, there remain plenty of isolate4 paradise-like stretches of white sand, emerald waters, swaying palms and quaint villages along Alagoas' coast In towns like Praia do Franc€s and MaraSogi you'll find natural pools created by expansive offshore reefs to explore. Inland, the state is home to architectural treasures like Penedo.

Macei6

Eoxxaz z poeru Macei6 is a modern ciW set on a truly beau-

pair oflounge chairs and a rental umbrella will run you about R$20 to R$30 for the afternoon. Be forewarned that Praia do Sobral and Praia da Avenid4 closer to the city center, are polluted. The nicest beaches north of the city are

thought to be Garga Torta (l.[km) and

Pratagi (I?km), but Jacarecica (9km), Guaxuma (12km) and Riacho Doce (l?km) are also tropical paradises. The Riacho Doce bus, which you c:rn pick up in several spots along the coastal road, runs up the coast to these northern b€aches.

@

Tours

From Praia de Pajugara jangadas (Sailboats; hips R$30) travel 2km offshore at low tide to natural pools formed by the reef (R$30). After a short journey aboard one of the de-

lightfully old-fashioned, colorfully painted jangad,as, you're free to float in the clear water; snorkel-mask rental (R$18) is optionweekends, floating bars serve beer Brazilians have rediscovered Marei6 as a va- al. On (coconrt water), making cation getaway, and the past few years have and agua d,e coco whole experience more festive. You can seen a boom in domestic tourism. The city the trips with any boat captain - stop in has a small but buzzing dining and drinking arrange when the boats are sailing scene and a much less hectic attitude than early to find out just stroll down the beach and wait for other larger cities; it's also the Sateway to or you first. The whole idyllic shorelines to the north someone to approach

tiful beachfront Though not well known to international tourists - at least not yet -

wonderfully

and south. On the ciffs beaches, vivid emera.ld-hued water laps the powdery sands that

are lined with palms and brightly painted jangad,as (traditional sailboats). By nisht locals follow the meandering beachfront path as it weaves past thatched-roof restaurants and palm-shaded football pitches. Macei6's sights are relatively few, Ieaving you plenty of time to catch some rays and soak up the relaxed atmosphere.

@

sigtrts

Mercado do

Artesanato

(A823315-4n4; Melo Monis

MARKET

&7am5pm Mon-Fri,to 2pm Sat,to noon Sun) Ifyou want a better variew of goods and a better deal than what's on offer at the markets on the 612 Lewda;

beach, head to the Mercado do Artesanato in the city center. Tb get there, catch a bus that stops in front of rhe antigo (old) Cine Ideal.

7i

e"""1t".

trip lasts about two hours.

A plethora oforganized day trips axe possible from Macei6, including a beach tour (R$35, taking in Praia do FYancOs, Barra de 56o Miguel and Praia do Gunga), an excursion to Foz do S5o Francisco (R$120), a trip to Porto de Galinahs (R$80) and a trip to the natural pools (from R$125) off the coast of Maragogi. Another popular excursion is the Nove llhas (Nine Islands) tour (R$85) - in addition to cruising the Iagoa Mundari, you'll stop at the outlet of the lake into the ocean. Such excursions are extremely easy to plan for much of the year: a large number of travel agencies' representatives carnp out

around Pajuqara's artisan market, advertising their services to passersby. For the most part companies combine passengers to make sure the numbers are filled out,

but in the low

season consider planning further ahead, contacting a few travel agencies through their web forms - a minimum number of passengers is required for most

Protected by an offshore coral reef, Macei6's ocean waters are calm and a deep emerald color. City beaches include the popular

tours.

Praia de Ponta Verde, Praia de Pajugara, Praia dos Sete Coqueiros and Jatifca - a

br; 2nd fl, Hotel Expresso R1, Avenida Joao Davino 385) or Edvantur Turismo (882 3327-9993;

(A82

Ity contacting MarcSo Turismo 3231-0843:

wwwturismomaceio.com.

r@

47r

PRAIA DO GUNGA Praia do Gunga, near the village of Barra de S5o Miguel, is considered one of the finest beaches in Alagoas and is a popular day trip destination from nearby Macei6. The shores are protected by a huge offshore reef, Ieaving the waters calm for bathing or kayaking. Especially compared to the nice, but hectic, city beaches it's a true paradise. lf you'd like to stay longer Brisamar Pousada (p472) is one of the better options in the area. During high season on Praia do Gunga, dune buggies (R$50 per person) take tourists on an hour-long adventure: you'll speed along the sands, stop to photograph the rocky dune-lined landscape, and go for a dip in a natural pool. You can also hike to a lookout (R$3) for stunning views of the surrounding areas. Note that in Praia do Gunga, dining options are infamously overpriced: be aware that most of the barracas (food stalls) insist on a minimum consumption of at least R$80-100 per person. lvlany beachgoers prefer to bring their own picnic from Macei6, or buy simple snacks and sandwiches from the stands set up around the gigantic parking lot. There is also an entry fee (R$5 per person), or a parking fee (R$15 per vehicle) which covers your entrance if you are arriving in your own car. Barra de SZo Miguel and Praia do Gunga are located 35km from Macei6. Brazilian tourists usually arrive in their own cars, while most foreigners visit Praia do Gunga on a day trip with a travel agency in Macei6 (R$35). To arrive independently from lr,1acei6, you can get one of the municipal buses (p476) from the main bus station (R$5.20,40 minutes). There are many departures, with a slightly reduced schedule on Sundays.

www.edvangueeuvoualagoas.com.br; Store 4, Jangadeiros Alagoanos 1206; tours per person from

R$35; S6am-10pm Mon-Fri,6am-10am & 4-l0pm Sat & Sun).

t-

{d Festa

Festivals & Events

Junina

Macei6 during Brazilt winter solstice; it's a Portuguese tradition beginning on

in mid-June and lasting

through St Peter's day at the end of the month.

Carnaval

PousADAs

3231-2117; www.hotelgogodaema.com.br; Francisco Laranjeiras 9Z Ponta Verde; s/d/tr from R$100/120l160; mE) On a quiet street near two lovely beaches, reliable budget pick Gog6

that fell in the city in 1955 and has come to q,rnbolize Macei6 itself) is a five-story guesthouse with a tropical theme. The 24-hour front desk is particularly helpful ifyou're arriving late or catching an early plane. Pousada Hotel

(Z 82 3316-8645;

Steeping

Many high-rise chain hotels have opened along the waterfront in the past decade. In general, Macei6's lodging options axe expensive, but you ca.n still find some solid budget options. Few hotels and pousadas (Buesthouses) offer much in the way ofstyle or character. Luckily, you're not going to spend much time in your room in this lively coastal city.

Maceio

PousADAS

www.pousadahotelmaceio.com.

br; Pompeu Sarmento 455, Ponta Verde; s/d from R$100/115;

oARNAVAL

(Omid-Feb) Macei6 hosts a smdl but lively Carnaval with all of the usua.l trappings: music, food and dancing. The bigger parties happen at beaches outside the city, especially Barra de 56.o Miguel.

15

Ema

(@82

da Ema (named for a famous old palm tree REltctous

(8late Jun) Fifteen days of folk dancing, fireworks, street food, bonfires, costumed revelry and free-flowing beer take over St Anthony's day

Gog6 da

Etr) This

simple eight-room

guesthouse is nothing fancy, but the place

is clean, well managed and conveniently located a half-block from the beach action, making it one of the better-value sleeping options in the areaMacei6 Hostel e Pousada HosrEt$ 3231:7762; www.maceiohostel.com.br;

(482

Jangadeiros Alagoanos 1528, Pajugara; dm/d from R$55/129; A bufuet option a

BE)

few blocks from the beach, this HI hostel is small - shared quads don't leave much room for your backpack - but the stalT are friendly and the place is efficiently run. Doubles are basic lrith good showers and large lockers.

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Mar

Hotel

(t282 3142-0001;

HorELg$

www.maceiomarhotel.com.br;

Afuaro Otacilio 2991, Ponta Verde; r from R$347;

Etr@) This popular high-rise, beachftont hotel has spacious, brightly lit rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, all with sea views. Recently renovated, with upscale amenities

and a swimming pool, it's suited to both business travelers and families.

Soft lnn

(882

and a great location, the shiny newness of this hotel (which opened in 20f8) makes it a cut above the other high-rise beachfront options.

It

has spotless, well serviced rooms

and is located just a few blocks from the water.

Brisamar Pousada

(482

POUSADASS

3272-2030; www.brisamarpousada.com.br;

Margarida Oiticica Lima 38, Barra de Sao Miguel; d HOTELSS

3131-1600; www.bhghoteis.com.br;

Eng

Mario de Gusmio 988, Ponta Verde; d from R$236;

E El tr ) If you're looking for simple comfort

from R$260; ts6) The lovely Brisamar Pousada is one of the better options for staying

close to Praia do Gunga. Rooms are clean and there's a great breakfast spread.

473 O-SOOE o-o.25&lles

a13

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Macei6 O Activities, Courses & Tours

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Hotel Praia Bonita... c4 5 Macei6 Hostel e Pousada................... C3 6 Macei6 Mar Hote1.................................F3 7 Pousada Aquarela do Brasi1............... 85 Pousada Hotel Maceio......................-.E3 9 Soft 1nn..................................,...,..........E3

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Fortaleza

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Maloca

DragSo

PERFoRM|NGARTS

>r (wwwdngaodomar.org.br; SAp{ The Northo

=

east's premier arts festival takes place in late

--{

with free concerts, theater, street performances and film.

H April at the Centro Cultural DragSo do Mar (p537)

$ FortaI

PARADE,MUSIC

(wwwJortal.com.br;

0

Jul) Fortaleza's lively

out-

of-season Carnaval is held for four days over

the last weekend of July and is attended by half a million people. Parada pela Diversidade Sexual PARADE (SJun) Fortaleza's Parada pela Diversidade Sexual (Sexual Diversity Parade) takes place on Av Beira Mar on the last Sunday ofJune; it's one of Brazil's biggest gay pride events.

llsheping

vaxious terraces. Dorms feature colorful lockers, original tiling and hardwood floors.

Hostel

Albergaria (A 85 3032-9005:

HoSTELS

wrvw.albergariahostel.com.br:

Ant0nio Augusto 111, Praia de lracema; dm with

fanlair-con R$,m/45, d/lr/q R$14O/L80/270: mEEE) This cheerful, well-located, wellrun hostel has very good facilities, including abackyardwith apool, plus asociable atmosphere helped along by the friendly English-

speaking owner. There are separate-sex and mixed four-bed dorms (with privacy curtains and lockers with electrical outlets) and four good private rooms with bathroom, although some are cold water only. Breakfast is plentiful. Reservations only. Hotel La

(885

Maison

3048-4200;

HoTELS

www.hotellamaison.com.

br: Av Desembargador Moreira 201, Meireles; r R$159; E @ 6 ) This excellent-value place in Meireles is just a couple of blocks from the Deputado JoSo Lopes 31, Cento; dm from R$30, r beach, and has 27 spotless rooms (those R$120-B0; A@6) Q Ea^snv Fortaleza'sbest upstairs are generally the brightest) and an hostel. German owner Karl has whipped common areas. The French old mansion into shape, following an eco' bright, colorful knows the city very well, speaks ethos with breezy natural ventilation and owner point you in the right disolar-heated showers. The bathrooms and English and can your needs. The fruitwhatever rection while kitchen are astonishing for a hostel, where's other desigrr-forward common spaces of heaw breakfast is substantial, but the Brie? note include a sunny patio/BBQ area and

*Retugio

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Fortaleza

HosTELs

85 3393-,13t9; www.refugiohostelfortaleza.com;

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1 Centro de Turismo................................... A1 2 Centro Dragao do Mar de Arte e Cu11ura........................................ Bl 3 Memorial da Cultura Cearense............................................... 82 4 Museu de Arte Contempo16nea...........,....................... 82 5 Praia do Meireles G2

E EatinS 13 50 ...........G2 14 Coco ............H3 15 Emp6rio Delitalia .G3 16 Santa CIara Caf6 0196nico..................... 81 u Vila ...........D2

Sabores..... Bambu. N/losquito.

@ Sleeping

6 Albergaria

Hos1e1..................................... Dl 7 Hotel Casa de Praia................................D2

8 Hotel La [/aison..................,...................G3 9 Hotel Lu2eiros......................................... G2

lo

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lracema

HoTEL8S

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Pousada Tr6s

Caravelas

(485-4006-1600; wwwsonatadeiracema.com.

(A

br; Av Beira Mar 848, Praia de lracema; s/d

Augusto 182, Praia

The cute two-story street frontage is slightly misleading, as most of the hotel is contained in the t3story block behind, but that means all the tasteful, bright and modern rooms have sea views. One of Fortaleza's nicest larger hotels, it has an outdoor pool deck and very pleasant staff

R$180/210/260;

R$290/320;

;' +

@Sights

Hotel Sonata de

il

ts@69)

pousADAg$

85 3219 -07 22: www.trescaravelas.com ; Antdn io

de lracema;

m@6) A little

s/d/tr more per-

sonal than the larger hotels, this pousada in Iracema is run by friendly Englishspeaking owner Vera and offers the right amount of cozy for the price. Rooms are clean and simple, with new air-conditioners, hot \Mater and the odd piece of colorful local art. There's a restaurant on the premises.

o a = o =

s

540

Praia

Hotel Casa de (E 85 3219-1022, 85-312$1609;

HoTEL8S

www.hotelcasade praia.com.br; Joaquim Alves 169, Praia de kacema: s.zdltr R$160/190 /220: @@@@) For its mod-

est price, this friendly 4,O-room hotel offers many pluses: clean, neat medium-sized rooms with solar-heated hot water; efficient and helpful staff; a rooftop hottub; a good breakfast in a bright dining room; and an easy fwo-block walk to the seafront. Rooms

on the bottom floor have small private porches. It gets heavily booked; reservations essential.

Luzeiros

Hotel (U 85 4006-8585;

HoTEL$$3

www.luzeirosfortaleza.com.br:

Av Beira Mar 2600, Meireles; s/d from R$340/370;

mEDEE) The axchitect of Fortaleza's frrst ii- doim hotel could have been a little more i auriis, but the clean-lined, modern spaces

P'

and rooms, plus what is probably the best breakfast in Cear6, make it a sleek mainstay = c with a high€nd clientele.

F

=

7'

2 >r

!

e"tirg

a short taxi ride south of Meireles, is home to most of Fortaleza's best restaurants.

Varjotq

*5o subo."s

rcEcREAMs

o (885 3023-0050: www.50sabores.com.br: Av T o Beira Mar 2982. Meireles: U2 flauors R$14l20; n & l0am-1l45pm) One of Brazil's most famous

-t ice cream shops, though with a terribly r misleading name: there are actually l5O flar N

vors here, including caipirinha (made with cachaga sugarcane liquor - you must be l8 to purchase!) and beer, plus loads of Brazilian fruits and more classic options. Thereb another a branch in Mucuripe (www.SOsabores.com.br; Av Beira Mar 3958, Mucuripe; U2 flavors R$14l20;

& 7am-midnight).

Santa Clara Caf6

Org6nico

CAFE$

(Centro DragSo do Mar, Praia de lracema; items R$8-

I 3-10pm Tue-Sun; 6 tr ) Santa Clara is one ofthe city's happeningpontos de encontros; loosely translated, this means where hot people go to mingle (and cool down in the icy air-con). It's a wonderful little cafe on an upper level of Dragio do Mar (p537), and serves organic coffee, sandwiches, crepes, 23;

omelets, waffles, tapiocas and a plethora

fancier coffee drinks. Emp6rio

Delitalia

CAFE,

Tue-Sun;

6)

Early risers could consider

forgoing breakfast at their accommodations for the great juices, coffees, waffles, hot filled croissants, omelets and tapiocas at this classy, uncharacteristically earlyopening cafe+mporium. Come anyway for Fortaleza's best deli and bakery (adjoinins) and one of its better pizzerias (upstairs).

Cantinho do

Frango

GRlLLgs

(www.cantinhodofrango.com; Torres Clman 71, Aldeota; mains for two R$65-70; &10am-4pm Mon-Thu, 10am-10:30pm Fri,9am-7pm Sat & Sun)

Hugely popular with local families, this grill restaurant has a fabulous main dining room covered in old movie posters; it houses a collection ofhundreds of LPs - pick one out and hand it to the DJ to hear your selection.

The house specialty is grilled chicken but there's a wide selection of other meats too.

Mosquito

Vila (A 85

BRAZILIAN$8

3226-7 422; www.vilamosquito.com.br; Ant0-

nio Augusto 786, Meireles; mains R$42-65) Set

some gtreat desserts. Relaxed arnbience, qual-

ity service and fair prices make it Moleskine

Gastrobar

a

winner. BRAZILIANSS

(www.moleskinegastrobar.com.br; Prolessor Dias da Rocha 578, Meireles: mains R$39-75; $noonOne of 2am Tue-Sat, to midnight Sun & Mon; Fortaleza's trendiest restaurants, this gastrobar draws the young, hot and restless

6)

-

as much for its striking design denimcovered banquets and rope-hung lightins wrapped around suspended rail beams as for its grill-heaw menu. Start with the bob6 d.e camard,o (shrimp with manioc) cro quettes before choosing a slab of meat from the impressive barbecue.

Crocobeach

sEAFooDSS

(D85 3521-9600;

www.crocobeach.com.br; Av Clorris Arrais Maia 3125, Praia do Futuro; buffet per kg R$69; &8am-6pm Sun-Wed & Fri' to 2am Thu' For the full Praia do Futuro to 7pm Sat;

6)

experience, head to megabarraca (megast-

of a]l) Crocobeach, which is shaded by

PlzzERlAi

(Av Desembargador Moreira 533; breakfast items R$5.80{4.90, pizza R$?8-72:, &6:30am'l0pm Mon-Sat, 7:30am-l0pm Sun; pizeria 6pm-midnight

in

two converted homes with a pleasant alfresco dining area in between, this smart place has dozens ofwood-fired pizza varieties with gourmet toppings, plus an interesting selection of mains, with many seafood options and

scores

of coconut palms and has swimming pools and avariety ofcomfortable seating options. It's a hyper-complex of fun and sun, and the buffet is excellent There's usually live music on Saturdays and Sundays.

Coco

541

Bambu

BRAZILTAN$g

(www.restaurantecocobambu.com.br; Canuto de Aguiar

1317,

Varjota; mains for two R$70-228,

piuas

R$39-119; Ollam-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri &

Pirata

Bar

cuB

(www.pirata.com.br; Rua dos Tabajaras 325; admis-

sion R$40-50;

$8pmltam) The bar and club

scene around the Praia de Iracema

waterfront

Sat; 6) This massive, iconic eatery does a area is rather touristy, but lhe'Segandawhole lot of everything, with a 26-page menu feira Mais Lou.ca do Mundn'(Craziest Monmvering pizza, tapiocas, crepes, pasta and day in the World) at Pirata is still legendary. regional mains (seafood is the specialty) - Uve bands play fon6 and other Brazilian and all pretty good. The casual dining dance rhythms to packed crowds through the areas with tropical plants are pleasant, aI- nlCht. though you might object to paying the cover entertainment charge for the cheesy rock ballads.

itt

fr

Q

Arena

ornring & Nighflife

Fortalezais famed for its nightlife. The DragAo do Mar area is one ofthe best places to go out

Turatti

MtcRoBREnERy

(88530992829;

www.cenelariaturatti.com.br; Rua Ana Bilhar II78; small beer R$8-14; & Spm-midnight)

lncals descend on this enormous open-air microbrerery in hordes to beat the heat with artisanal dmft beer brewed right on the premises. There are six varieties on tap; you can buy it by the gXass but preW much everyone goes for the 35-Iiter towers (R$69 to Rgt2O).

Amika

0AFE

(Ana Bilhar 11368, Varjota; coffee R$4.25-9; &18pm Tue-Sun; @ ) When you tire of sickly pre-

sweetened bus-station mffee, head to this trendy coffeehouse, where its business is to know beans. Three weekly-changing espres-

sos from single-origin Minas Gerais plantations are available daily, as are the usual caffeine junkie methods (Aeropress, Chemex etc). Serves light bites as well. Boteco

Praia

BAR

(@85 32aA-4773: www.botecofortaleza.com.br;

Av

Beira Mar 1680, Meireles; S Spm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-3am Sat & Sun; The number-one spot

6)

for evening drinks and conversation, Boteco Praia attracts all ages to its long arcaded hall and its terrace facing the seafront promenade. Live music nightly. It's a fine place to knock back cold chope (draft.beer).

6rbita

CastelSo

(885 3304-4501;

Fortaleza's CastelSo stadium, gkm south of the center, rir'as completely renovated to seat 67,000 fans for the 2Ol4 World Cup. The

city's two top clubs, Ceard (www.cearasc. com) and Fortaleza (www.fortalezaec.net), play their home games here.

6

snopping

with the

Portuguese. Artisans also work bamboo, vines and leather.

ut

vuilh carnailba-palm fronds,

=

Ceart

= o 3 n

ARIs&CRAFTS

@) Reminiscent of a college-town rock club

Out with way better-looking people than

your college most likely, or ours), this large Dragdo do Mar (pf8fl bar hosts live roc\ surf and pop amid snooker tables and a legion of flirtatious upper-class clientele. Admission is cheaper or free if you come early.

>r

(Av Santos Dumont 1589, Aldeota; &9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 2:30-8:30pm Sun) The main show- I room of this beautiful, state-run craft store, m which sells lace, ceramics, wood carvings, N = textiles, and baskets and bags of sisal and

carnartba palm. Theret another branch at Centro Dragdo do Mar (p537).

Artesanato

Feira de MARXET (Praia do Meireles; &5pm-midnight) A bustling beachside handicraft market on Praia

do Meireles. The small stalls sell similar items to those found in the central market: leather goods, jewelry bottles of cachaga, T-shirts, lacework and wood carvings. Mercado

(www.orbitabar.com.br; Dragio do Mar 207,Pmia de lracema; admission R$30; S9pm-4am Thu-Sun;

II

You can find handicrafts from all around E Cear6 in Fortaleza. Some ofthe finest work ts is in delicate lace, a tradition that came

Central

(www.mercadocentraldefortaleza.com.br; BAR

FooTBALL

Av Alberto Craveiro 2901)

MARKET

Av Alber-

to Nepomuceno 199; 9&m-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, to lpm Sun) Mainly geared to a tourist clientele, the three-story central market has good prices at more than 50O stalls that sell

everything from leather bags and colorful palm baskets to excellent local cashews and a huge variety of cachaga - some bottles have fruit salad or crabs pickled inside. You might find a desirable curio. There's an ATM on the top floor.

542

$

tnformation

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Beware of pickpockets in the city center and petty theft on the beaches; gaggles of adolescents specialize in snatch-and-grab robbery along Av Beira Mar (watch your necklaces and purses). Tourists waiting at bus stops to return from Praia do Futuro have been targeted. Empty streets in Centro and Praia de lracema are best avoided after dark. EMERGENCY

Deprotur (Delegacia de Protegao ao Turista;

E 85 3101-1344, 85 3101-2488; www.policia civil.ce.gov.br: Costa Barros 1971, Aldeota; 88am-6pm Mon-Fri) MONEY

lr E le

E

Banco do Brasil (Av Beira Mar; S8am'10pm) ATM on the waterfront. Banco do Brasil (Av Abolig6o 2308, Meireles; & 8am-l0pm) Convenient ATM. Bradesco (www.bradesco.com.br: Av da Aboligao 1810, Meireles; S8am-10pm) Visa/ Mastercard ATM. Bradesco (www.bradesco.com.br; Av Pessoa Anla 274;

& 8am-l0pm) Visa/Mastercard

ATM.

2

TOURIST INFORMATION The city tourism department operates information B. booths around town; stalf may or may not speak English butyou'll find useful maps and guides. H Meireles (SETF0R; 885 3105-2670; https:// -{ turismo.fortaleza.ce.gov.br; Av Beira Mar, Meireles; S9am-5pm) N Mercado Central (SETF0R: E 85 3105-1475; https://turismo.fortaleza.ce.gov.br: Basement level, Mercado Central, Av Nepomuceno 199; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Aeroporto Pinto Martins (E 85 3488-5869; https://turismo.f ortaleza.ce.gov.br; Av Carlos Jereissati 3000, Aeroporto Pinto Martins;

I

I

S8am-8pm)

O Cettlng

S 8am-noon & 2-7pm), olfer direct door-to-door van transfers from Fortaleza hotels (R$80 to R$100, five hours) - most accommodations can book these for you. Another option is Fretcar (@853402'2244; www.f retcar.com.br; Terminal Rodovi6rio), which runs up to five buses daily to Jericoacoara (from R$73, six to seven hours) departing at 4am, 7am, 2:45pm, 4pm and 6pm from Fortaleza's bus station. A 6:30am departure (year-round) and usually one afternoon bus (2:15pm, depending on season) begin from the airport before picking up at the bus station 30 minutes later, and then at the Praiano Hotel (www.praiano.com.br: Av Beira Mar 2800) on Praia do Meireles about 30 minutes after that. The last part of the Fretcartrip is a one-

& Oswaldo Cruz:

There & Away

AIR

Aeroporto Pinto Martins (0 85 3392-1030; Av Carlos Jereissati 3000) has direct flights to/ from Amsterdam, Bogot6, Buenos Aires, Cabo Verde, Lisbon, Miami, Milan, Orlando and Paris as well as domestic flights through Brazil. BUS

Fortaleza's bus station (E 85 3256-5786, 85 3256-2200; Av Borges de Melo 1630) is 5.5km south of Meireles. To Jericoacoara, several companies, such as Girafatur (E 85 3219-3255; www.giralatur. com.br) and Vitorino (E 85 3047-1047; www. vitorinotur.com.br; office 503, Av Beira Mar

hour ride in alardrnerra (open-sided 4WD kuck) along sandy tracks and the beach and through dunes from Jijoca to Jericoacoara. There are also additional services to Jiioca de Jericoacoara (R$35 to R$46, 11 daily) from where you can take a public pickup to Jericoacoara. You can check Fretcar schedules and buy tickets (advisably a day ahead) at the Fretcar office on the Beira Mar in Meireles (E 85 996759981: www.f retcar.com.br; Av Beira Mar 2985; STam-10pm) or at the Beach Point ofilce (E 85 3086-7055; cnr Av Beira Mar & Oswaldo Cruz, No 1 Beira Mar Trade Center; &9am-noon & 1-8pm). The most exciting way of reaching Jericoacoara is by 4WD along the coast - an option offered by agencies such as Jeri 0fr Road (E 88 99971-3336, 88 99971-3330; www.ieri.tur.br; Pousada Bella Jeri, Travessa da Rua do Fo116),

which charges R$850 for up to four people. CAR Half-a-dozen rental agencies have airport desks, including the recommended Avis (E 85 3392-1369; www.avis.com.br; Aeroporto Pinto Martins; S 6am-midnight) and Localiza Hertz (U 85 3308'8351; www.localizahertz.com; Aeroporto Pinto Martins; 024h0, which also has a convenient agency in Meireles (E 85 32482900; www.localizahertz.com; Av Aboligdo 2236: S 8am-8pm, to 2pm Sun). There's a slew of local rental firms on Av Monsenhor Tabosa in Praia de lracema, including Maresia (E 85 3219-8000: www.maresiarentacar.com.br: Av Monsenhor Tabosa 1001; S 8am-6:30pm), where the owner speaks some English.

($ cetting Around TOlFROM THE AIRPORT Coopaero (E 85 3105-1500; www.coopaero. com.br; Aeroporto Pinto Martins) fixed-rate taxi from the airportto Meireles or Praia de lracema is R$47 during the day and R$70 at night. Metered Coopertaxl (E 85-3477-5549) common taxis run

A

R$35 to R$50 to Meireles or Praia de lracema and R$25 to R$30 to the bus station.

543 A special local bus, 917, runs between the

airport and Beira MarlAv Aboligao and costs R$10 per

kip.

Using the normal services, bus 027 Siqueira/ Papicu/Aeroporto and 066 Parangaba / Papicu/ Aeroporto both run to Terminal Papicu in the east of the city, where you can change to the 051 Grande Circular l for Meireles and Praia de lracema. Alternatively, take the 066 to Terminal Parangaba, and change there to the 077 ParangabalMucuripe bus, which runs to the Centro Dragao do Mar, Praia de lracema and Meireles. The airport is 6km south of Centro.

Meireles (www.bicicletar.com.br: Av Beira Mar) and Mucuripe (p85 4003-9594: www.bicicletar. com.br; Av Beira Mar, Mucuripe), Rul Barbosa (www.bicicletar.com.br; Rui Barbosa 1680, Praia da lracema) close to lracema and at Dragno do Mar (www.bicicletarcom.br; Drag6o do Mar). You'll need to register (R$5 per day) on the website or with the app. There are a few choice locations along the beach.

TAXI Taxis are metered. A 4km trip across town from the Centro Dragio do Mar to Varjota, for example, costs about R$15 to R$18.

TOlFROM THE BUS STATION Bus 013 Aguanambi leaves from outside the bus station and runs north up Av Dom Manuel to the Centro Dragio do Mar. For Praia de lracema and Meireles, walk left outside the bus station, turn right at the traffic signal along Av Borges de Melo and walk to a bus stop about 200m along on the far (south) side of the street. From here buses 073 Siqueira/Praia de lracema and 078 SiqueiralMucuripe will take you up Av Dom Manuel to the Centro Dragio do Mar, then to Praia de lracema and (the 078 only) Meireles. A taxi from the bus station to Meireles costs around R$25.

Canoa Quebrada

Eoxxaa z PoP4ooo The coast southeast of Fortaleza has manv c, fine beaches, manyofthem backed bydunes, I but it's developed and built-up. It's not un- -t til you reach the red-hued windswept won- P. ! derland of Canoa Quebrada, l4,0km from Fortalez4 that the coast starts to regain its natural majestlr Once a tiny village cut off F from the world by its huge pink sand dunes and beloved by early hippie travelers, Canoa = F Quebrada today has become a more familyoriented beach spot, and it's a favorite destination of daily van tours from Fortaleza But >r o the craggy, eroding sand cliffs and the large C' dune expanses still lend Canoa that elemenz. tal, otherworldly feel for which it's famous. o With numerous good pousadas and restaurants, and varied outdoor activities easily ,o c available, it's arr erfoyab]e spot to relax for a r ED

;

-

BUS Fortaleza has a very extensive city bus system with good frequency on most routes. Fares are

mostly R$3.40 (R$2.80 on Sundays and hotidays) and if you have to transfer at a Terminal de lntegragao (lntegration Terminal), such as Papicu or Parangaba, you don't have to pay a second fare. BICYCLE

Bicicletar (E 85 4003-9594; www.bicicletar. com.br; Av Beira Mar, Mucuripe) Fortaleza's city bike-share scheme is free for the first hour (for 90 minutes on Sundays). After that, it's R$5 per hour. There are stations throughout the city including convenient locations on Av Beira Mar in

few days.

D

d t"tiuiti",

o

Southeast ofCanoa a 30km stretch ofbeautiful uninterrupted beach, backed by color-

ful cliffs, sweeps round to the red-rock

BUSES FROM FORTALEZA DESTINATION

cosT FRoM (RS)

DURATION (HR)

COMPANY

8et6m

t70

24

Guanabara (www.expressoguanabara.com.br)

Natal

98

9

Via96o Nordeste (wwwviacaonordeste.com.br)

Itapemirim (www.itapemirim.com.br)

Pamalba

75

9

Guanabara

Phlplrl

54

8

Guanabara

Reclfe

100

t4

Guanabara

Rlo de Janoho

565

48

Itapemirim

Slo lnls

160

19

Guanabara

Teresim

60

11

Guanabara

Ubalara

46

7

Guanabara

544 WONTH A TRIP

PARQUE NACIONAL DE UBAJARA

lr

; ;' =

It's the smallest national park in the country, but Parque Nacional de Ubajara (U88-99937-5544,88-99942-3051; admission R$5; E8am-5pm Tue'Sun) crams plentv of attractions into its boundaries. Atop a thickly forested escarpment 850m above sea level, Ubajara offers some spectacular vistas over the serfSo (interior or backlands of the Northeast) below. The main attractions are Siant caves (11 in total but only one is open to the public), a pair of impressive waterfalls and walks in the surrounding forest. With the cable car out of service at the time of writing, to see the main cave you'll need to take a 14km, six-hour round-trip guided hike (R$30 per visitor) down to the entrance. Hikes leave at 8am. 9am and loam from the visitors center. wear sturdy footwear and take enough to drink. Last entry to the cave is at 2pm. lf you have your own vehicle you can also drive 64km along a large loop to the lower entrance of the park from where it's a just a two-hour hike to the cave entrance. lnside the cave there are nine chambers with strange limestone formations extending more than 5oom into the side of a mountain. The main formations seen inside the caves are Pedra do Sino (Bell Stone), Salas da Rosa (Rose Rooms), Sala do Cavalo (Horse Room) and Sala dos Retratos (Portrait Room). Less strenuous hikes include a 2.5km walk to an elevated walkway and a lookout point (R$8); the 6km circuit to the Cachoeira do Cafund6 waterfall (R$15); and the 8km trek

to the park's most dramatic waterfall, Cachoeira do GaviEo (R$20). All activities in the park apart from the lookout at the main entrance require a guide.

Guanabara (885

3233-6759; www.expressoguanabara'com.br;

Terminal Rodovi6rio) has

five daily buses between Ubaiara and Fortaleza (R$46, six hours);

a

->r

of Ponta Grossa. It's a great beach-buggy trip (R$250 to R$350 for o three or four hours round-trip, up to four c, people) and you can stop for a good-value lunch when the seafood is in season o lobster (from July to December). It's only possible to complete this trip when the tide is low. c North of Canoa a large area of hig! dunes m E stretches 12km to the mouth of the Rio Jagfr uaribe: a one-hour buggy trip with some o exciting steep descents costs around R$200 to R$300 for up to four people. It's also possibte to add a boat trip on the river onto this loop. Pousadas can remmmend and organheadland

z a

Extreme KiteSchool Canoa

Quebrada

KITESURFING

(088

98819'3632, 88 99960-6070; extremekite [email protected]; Draglo do Mar) A recom-

mended kitesurfi ng outfitte! IKO-certified instructor Daniel offers a threeday (ninehour) beginners' course for R$1080. He also rents equipment (R$200 per day) and organizes transport to the best spots. Ask for him in the Art Canoa shop on the main drag'

@Tours Estrela

Lua

(A8

ouTDooRs

99732'7212; DraSao de Mar 209)

A well-

ize authorized bu88y drivers.

organized loca.l tour operator that offers the

Kitesurfrng is best around the mouth of the Rio Jaguaribe, f2km northwest, where there is reliable wind and calm waters; the

standard buggy and ATV tours both to the north and south of town, including a 60km adventure to the Rio Jaguaribe (R$600 for four visitors) that includes a 10km boat ride

season runs from July

to

December. It's

reachable only by buggy.

up the river.

ParapenteCanoaQuebrada (088 999U-9285,88 99810'2433;

PARAGLIDING

Francisco Car-

aco; l0-15min flight R$158) lbndem para,Sliding is hugely popular and huge fun if you have a head for heights. You'll ride the breezes above Canoa's beaches from the takeofr point at the east end of Broadway. It's also possible to fly triple with two clients in the harness beneath the instructor.

lE

Steeping

Hostel Pousada

(A8

lbiza

HoSTELS

3F,2l:,262; www.hostelpousadaibiza.com; Draglo do Mar 360; dm R$55'65, d R$130'160;

EB)

Dorms and rooms are smallish but

brightened by colorful throws and flags, and

each comes equipped

with its own bath-

room. But what's best about this hostel is the

long, airy balcony-lounge-bar overlooking

545 the heart of the Broadway action. It shares premises with a pizzeria (downstairs) and has a small guest kitchen.

f

Pousada Dolce

(E 88 3421-7213;

Vita

pousADA$$

www.canoa-quebrada.it; Descida

da Praia s/n; r from R$220; ts

6

ts ) The Dolce

Vita is friendly and relaxed. Bungalows are arranged around a garden of palms, flowers and lawns with a beautiful pool at its center. Rooms are spotless and have more character than your average pousada; each is named for a Fellini film and decorated with movie

memorabilia. The classic tiled bathrooms are fantastic for the price range.

ll

Nuraghe

(888

pous DAS3 342L74f8; www.nuraghe-canoa.com; Desci-

da da Praia s/n; r R$260-385;

m6ts)

t

cated

at the entrance to town, Il Nuraghe is one of Canoa's nicest places to stay, with 26 s$ish

minimalist rooms colored with fresh local art; the nicest of the rooms look out onto the extraordinary pool (about 25m long). Features including a small spa with a welcoming sauna and bathrobes show the Itatian owners are trying a bit haxder.

Canoa

Vila (E 88-3,121-7183;

www.vilaonoa.com;

35; r R$265-295;

$EA)

pousADAOt Av Beira Mar

Canoa,s onty beach-

front pousada is welcoming and Dutch-run; it's an exc€Ilent choice. Cool, tasteful rooms are dotted around a garden of grass and flagstone pathways that slope down to the pool, a great sunbathing deck and the pousada's own bamoca (beach bax-restaurant), which has cozy beach cushions. Pousada

California

pousADASS

(088-3421-7039; www.calihmiacanoa.com; Nascer doSol 135; rR$25G30; GEts) This poputar &l-room pousada has a vaxiety of neat, comfortable rcoms on two sides of the str€eq and

an attractive courtyard with a sociable bar and pool. FY€e fruit and coffee ane available all day in the brealfrst-roomr are postcard-worthy; at night, illuminated o by moonli8ht and the lights of inviting bouv tiques and restaurarts, it oozes atmosphere. a) While it's no longer a tranquil hippy haven, o Jeri's allure remains undeniable and it's a o must-visit on any Northeast itinerary.

-

o v

f l"tiriti"" Steady winals between late June and February make Jericoacoara a top destination for kitesurfing and windsurfing; there's also decent surfing waves.

Other activities include visiting the dunes and lakes outside town by bugry; yoga classes; and strolling along the beactr or throwh the hills to Pedra Furada, an arched rock 3lan east of town that's become an emblem ofJeri.

Buggy Rides The most popular day trips head east (to Pre5, Pedro Furada [a8oa Azul and, the belle of the ball, l,agoa Paraiso) for R$300 per buggy; or west (to Gurifi and Tatajuba, with ar option to s€e sealorses) for R$350. Each vehicle seats four; buggy drivers, hotels and tour operators will help to fill the spots with other travelers. While the uip eastto the laSoons offers the chance to cool offin postcard-perfect brilliant

Classes (R$30, 1,, hours) are usually held from 7am to 8am and 4pm to Spm every day on the beach, followed daily (except Sunday) by a sunset roda d,e capoeira (open capoeira performance), which always attracts a crowd.

Massage

Ashti Ma (D

Parithosh

MASSAGE

88 99949'8299; www.ashti.com.br: Pousada Vila

9l0amwith aII the buggy noise and

Bela Vista, Pred; 75min massage R$160;

7:30pm) Fed up

crowds, Jeris best masseuse has upped and left town; fortunately for those in need of relaxation she hasrit gone far and can be found by the more tranquil sands of Prei r2km east. English-speaking Ashti, who trained in Brazil and ltaly, offers a 75-minute massage that will deal with what ails you.

Surfing There are good waves for surfint Gest from

in front of Praia de Jericoacoara- Neighboring Praia

about March to May) riSht out

Malhada round the bendto the east, hasbigger waves for more advanced surfers. Board rental costs R$30 or so per hour but you can ne8otiatE a better deal for longer rentals.

Windsurfing The same winds that make Jeri a kit€surfing mecca work for windsurfing too. July to January are the best months, with fine conditions for experienced riders riSht in front

ofJeri beach. Club

Ventos

wlNosuRFlNG

(888-3669-2288; www.clubventos.corn;

hah

de

of the foot of Rua do Forr6, Club Ventos is ptu

Jericoaoara: S9:30am{pm) Just east

fessional and well equippe{ though more expensive than some simila.r outfits. It also rents kayalc, surfboads and stand-up paddle (SllP) boards.

55r KITESURFING JERI & THE NORTHEAST Steady, strong trade winds blowing across the Atlantic from Africa during the second half of the year help put Brazil's northeast coast among the world's very best kitesurfing zones. Lovers of this exciting, physically demanding sport fly in from around the world and have spawned a whole infrastructure of kite schools, kite pousadas and kite safaris. There is a full range of conditions from flat water to waves, and the steady easterly breeze blowing along the whole coast makes for some epic downwinder voyages. Equipment rentals are widely available, but with rates of R$300 to R$315 per day it makes more sense for experienced surfers to bring their own. A rental car is a huge help both for transporting your gear and for reaching the best spots. Beginners can learn the art at almost any kitesurfing destination on the coast: a course of nine or 10 hours, usually spread over three days, costs around R$145O to R$1800 with IKO-certified instructors. For proper safety standards and quality teaching, choose a school with instructors

certified by the lnternational Kiteboarding Organization (www.ikointl.com). Jericoacoara is one of the most popular kitesurfing locations, thanks to its combination of traveler facilities and winds that blow at an average 23 to 30 knots for eight months of the year. From late June to February the breeze springs up mid-morning and blows until sunset; it's strongest in September and October. The best spot for beginners is PreA (13km east of Jeri) at low tide, where there are idyllic side-on-shore wind conditions. Other good spots are the river-mouth waters at Guri0, 12km west of Jeri (though it's becoming more crowded) and along the shore for several kilometers back toward Jeri; and Tataiuba, 12km beyond Guri0, where there's a flat-water lagoon. For experienced kitesurfers, the 25km of downwind conditions from the P6r do Sol (Sunset) dune all the way to Tatajuba is a popular route. lt's also possible to kitesurf the entire journey from Fortaleza to Jericoacoara. Jeri has numerous kite schools. Freelance teachers may charge less, but it's better to use a schoolwith IKO instructors such as MH Kiteschool (888-99971-3330; www.mhkiteschool. com; Pousada Bella Jeri,Travessa da Rua do Forr6) (lKO ll Senior), Kiteiscool (D8899O0-2330; wwwkiteiscool.com; Praga Principal; &8:30am-noon&4:30-llpm) or Pre6-based Rancho do Kite (8883659-2080:www.nnchodokite.mm.br; Principal; Sshop l0am-lpm&3:30-1lpm). The whole coast around Jeri - from Barrinha, 6km east of Pre5, to Camocim, 20km west ofTatajuba - is great for downwinders. lt's easy to find a buggy for transport: for example, it's R$140 for four or five people from Jeri to Guri[. Much longer downwinders are equally possible on any stretch of the coast adventures can be organized through local pousadas, agencies and kite schools. Jeri Off Road (p542), for example, offers'kitesurfaris' of several days with 4WD from Canoa Quebrada to Fortaleza (140km), Fortaleza to Jeri (300km), orJeri to Barra Grande (100km), running around R$1000 per day per vehicle. Other Northeast kitesurfing locations include Natal, 56o Miguel do Gostoso, Galinhos, Canoa Quebrada, Fortaleza, Cumbuco (p537), Flecheiras and lcaraI de Amontada.

Ticowind

wlNDsuRFlNG

(888

99662-9291; www.ticowindieri.com; Vila KaF ango, Rua das Dunas 30: 98am-6pm) Ticowind

is highly popular for its good qualiflprice combination (and it's thus sometimes necessary to book ahead for its services): it rents windsurfing boards and runs three-hour beginner courses for R$400. Also organizes specialized insurance.

@ Tours In addition to buggy day trips, you a.lso take buggy

can

or 4WD trips as far west

as Parnaib4 the l,enqois Maranhenses and Sdo Luis, a route known as the Rota das Emoq6es (Route of the Emotions). A tour is a lot easier, though more expensive, than

taking public transportation: a three-day (or more) 4WD expedition to Sao Luis - including accommodations, transportation, a Delta do Parnaiba boat trip, a boat along the Rio Preguiqas and a leng6is Maranhenses dunes tour - costs around R$2000 per traveler with Jeri OtrRoad (p54,2). The same compilny also offers one-and two-day trips to Fortaleza visiting villages and beaches along the way for R$850 to R$15OO for up to four travelers.

l5

Sleeping

There are dozens ofpousadas and small hotels in Jericoacoara- Some hotels close during May, the low point of Jeri's season. The high seasons are July and January.

ct

E *t P.

= lD

= ,t

>r

o m 7t

o

o CJ o F

552

Chic

HosrELS Villa (E 88 99968-5980; www.villachicjeri.com; Princi-

breezy fan-cooled p alaf it as (*ilr houses) with drift\4rood staircases and smaller but equally

E@6ts)

eletiant apartanxezfos (rooms with private bathroom). The staff is charming, and the pool deck and restaurant ]ook out onto the beach.

pal; dm R$55, r/UqR$260/320/410;

If

you've outgxown the hostel party scene, the excellent dorms here are Jerit best, but exist within the environment of a boutique pousada Each eight-bed dorm (one mixed, one ma.le, one female) boasts one-and-a-half bathrooms (the'half'has no shower), which

are some of the most fashionable you'll come across at these prices.

Jeri

HosrELS

99747-8070: www.jericentral.com.br: 56o

ts68)

This 222; dm/r R$60/250; popular hostel in the center of town wins big points for its bright, neat facilities and welcoming atmosphere. The swimming pool and laxse thatdl hammock space promote easy socializing, and trilingual manager Gafcho is constantly assisting guests with travel advice, well-organized information boards and reasonably priced laundry service - and keeps a watchful, anti-shenanigans patrol. Fmncisco

li =. F

=

, -

It's mnveniently located right in ftont of the Ftetcar (p556) office. Pousada

(288

Papaya

PousADASS

3669'2219, 88 99651'8015; www.ieripapaya.

>r com.br; Dunas ll 74; r R$260-380: 86ts) o T\rcked away inside this walled oasis are 11 m neat, comry rooms with colorful bedspreads, c) a pool in a flowery front garden, and attrac= o tive common areas inside and out. These c) features and a great brealfast make this a L

o u

deservedly popular choice, although service could be better at times. Room f0 with its dune views is the pick of the bunch.

Jeri

PoUSADA99 Bella (E 88 999n-330; www.bellajeri.com.br; Travessa da Rua do Fon6: Vdlt R$260/40690; ts 6 ) Bella Jeri has seven cute, ta.stefirl rooms with brick walls, solid wood fumiture and hammocks, plus a pleasant ga.rden, pool and br€ezy roof terrace with views to the dunes and the ocean. The brealfrst is srcat and the Englishspeakingowners also runJeri OffRoad (p54,2)

I

and MH Kiteschool (p551), whidt makes one.stop shop for all pu desire in Jeri.

f

vil"

Kulungo

(888 366$2n0:

Fufi

PousADASSS

wwwcasafufi.com.br; Rua do lbama; r R$390-510: E@E) This newish intimate top€nder offers just five rooms with-

in its white-stone-and-brick,

Central

(488

Casa

(888 997R-0303;

it

thatched-roof construction, flanked by a healthy patch of grass (a rarity in Jeri) and a silish pool deck. Breakfast is served privately on the expansive verandas, where there are hammocks and ample table space. The spacious rooms all come with modern kitchens. Top honors for privacy and price. Pousada

(888

PousADA,cHALETlco

Dunas 30: r R$830-lil00; tsOEts) A lonstime topend favorite, Vila Kalango oftrs avarie$ of drarming accommodations set in a lovely garden. The round brick bungalows a.re se. r€ne escape pods with beautifirl canopy beds and native wood furnitue. There are also

PousADASSS

br; Ruadolbama; rR$75-1620; ts@trE) Spacious rooms with gorgeous hardwood verandas and hammock chairs are set in tasteful

exposed-brick bungalows, amid colorful grounds draped in lush tropicalia. Rooms 5, 8 and 12 have the most panoramic views. Facilities are topnotch throughout - the wifi is turbo speed - and the oceanfront patio and lounge with views over Jeri's dunes is a neax-perfect chill-out pad.

)(

e"ting

Jeri offers a great variew of excellent food

for such a small place. Deciding on which charming spot to eat at can be painful. Cheap local eateries where simple meals start from R$lO cluster on the eastern end of Rua 56o Flancisco.

Naturalmente

gRAztUAN

(Praia de Jericoacoara; crepes R$16-39:

8

Snoon'

llpm) lbsty crepes, gteat agat and fresh juicwith sea views in a breezy thatched hut right on the beach make this one of Jeri's best places to chill out after a long tour or a night oftoo many caipirinhas. es served

a

www.vilakahngo.com.br Rua das

Jerib6r

99768-0002 85 4062-9193; www.jeriba.com.

Grano I I VZn scoop R$10/12l16;

Gelato & (kaCa Principal

Srnon*nidnigtrt) If there's one

ToECREAM

thinglott'll ercn-

tually crave in this heat, it's ice cream. This wildly popular farmhousedtic gelato shop on the main squarc serves up 20 flavors and is constan$ swarmed by sweet-toothed vacationers and locals Belgian drocolate and pistaa.re the mostpopular, but Brazilian staples sudr as agaf and tapiocaane herc as well.

ddo

553 There's a second, smaller location closer to the beach on Rua Principal (4,pm to mid-

nisht). Padaria Santo

Ant6nio

BAKERY9

(Sao Francisco; items R$1-9; *2am-7pm)

A Jericoacoara classic, this bakery opens in the wee hours of the morning to provide coffee and freshly baked goods to partygoers on their way home.

*eistro Caigara

BRAztLtANs$

(888

99916-0072; Principal 16; mains R$38-95; S5-11pm Mon-Sat; E) Right in the center of

town, this place is a real crowd-pleaser for

Chef Apolin6riot more-creative-than-most menu which includes plenty ofseafood: robalo (sea bass) in soy, ginger and honey; fish in passion-fruit or cashew-fruit sauces; and sweet-and-spicy octopus are standouts. Ser-

vice is top-notch and it all goes down very romantically on a candlelit 2nd-floor openair patio overlooking Rua Principal Peixe

Brasileiro

sEAFooDgg

(cnr Sao Francisco & Beco do Guax6lo; fish/shrimp/

lobster per kg R$50/90/150; &7-11:30pm) Just

a few plastic tables in the sand alley where local flsherfolk grill ftesh catch nightly. pick your dinner by size from the family's peitaria (fishmonger) next door:.parg:o (red snapper), garoupa (grouper), robalo (seabass), shrimp and/or langosta (lobster). Wei8h it, sit back and wait while theybarbecue it, garnished with nothing but lime and salt. Service is slow and somevr'hat surly. Unfortunately the fishmongers sometimes assume you have a bigger appetite than you do. Keep them honest: about 5O0g is a good fish portion per person. The entire experience is one to remember,

Tamarindo

BRAztLtAN gS

(488

99937-9057; Travessa lsmael: medium piza R$34-65, mains R$44-76; O6-Upm) Jerib most

creative dining experience is romantically lit under the shadow of a giant tamarind tree. Nearly everything is cooked in thebrick oven, which may be the norm for pizz4 but not for exquisite gems such as the Brazil-nut-crusted filet mignon. From the cocktails (frozen tangeroskas madewith tangerine and ginger) to the staff and service, it's a class act.

Pimenta

Verde

octopus Provengal (best dish in Jeri?) to a divine green-peppercorn filet and perfectly creamy seafood risotto. Cute artistic touches round out the culinary happiness.

|NTERNAT|oNAL. BRAztLtAN

gg

(S5o Francisco: mains for two R$103-141; &noonllpm, closedtwo Sun per month; 6 ) This delight-

fu] little corner restaurant with only a few tables pumps out memorable cuisine, from

Pizzaria

AraxA

ptzzA$S

Rua das Dunas; piza

(www.araxapousada.com;

R$35-45; &6:30-10:30pm) Intimate Italianowned pizzeria inside a well-to-do pousada producing Jeri's best pies. AII the classics are

represented (margherita, marinara etc) as as white pizzas and a few Brazilianized versions to appease the locals (chicken with Catupiry cheese etc). There are just a few tables, divided loft-style between those overlooking the pool and those in the sand below.

well

Club

Ventos

BUFFET89

(888-3669-2288; www.clubventos.com; Praia de Jericoacoaral per kg R$90, mains for two R$70120; Onoon-6pm; 6) Soak up the spectacular views from the cashew-tree-shaded oceanfront terrace at Jericoacoara's lrcst por kilo eatery then settle into a lounge chair and catch some rays for the rest ofthe afternoon. An excellent selection of salads compensate

for the limited - but tasty

i

-

;' =

array of main i

dishes. There are also la carte dishes plenty of inspired seafood choices.

Q

EI

with

z >r

o

O.inring & Nighilife

m

Everlthing starts at the cocktail barrara,s on n the beach at the foot of Rua Principal. From C) early evening, caipirinhas and caip

ifiat as ar e

mixed up with exotic fruits. Cocktails average R$7 to R$f6. Flom here partiers move on to other entertainments around the village. Places and events change frequently; ask

around. For live music, expect covers between R$15 and R$20.

Cachagaria

Gourmet

(wwwfacebook.com/cachacariagourmetjeri:

BAR

Traves-

sa lsmael; cachap R$8-12; &6pm-midnight) If you'd like a stiff drink without a soundtrac\ this cute, tiny bar specializes in Brazil's national firewater, cachaga. There are around 9O labels, many of which come from Minas Gerais (as does the owner); around 30 labels are available at ary given time. The liquor is even mixed into frozen caipirinhas (a rarity, despite the obviousness ofthe idea!). Also sells microbrews made locally in Jeri.

Samba Rock

Cafe

(www.sambarockcafe.com;

BAR

Principal; Cover R$8:

S6pm-1am) Sitting on prime corner real es-

tat€ affoss from the main square, this is

o C)

o n

554 easily Jeri's most atmospheric drinking spot.

distinct local flavor and are usually thronged

Rustic wooden seating is arranged under a massive, illuminated acacia tree. There are often bands playtng sernneio, roc]r

o

an

o r c -@

Fretcar (E 88 99700-7373; www.f retcar.com.br; S6o Francisco; &6-6:15am, 8-1lam, noon-5pm & 6-10:30pm) runs a service to Fortaleza (R$74 to R$92 six to seven hours), leaving at 6:15am, 2:55pm, 4:55pm and, the most comfortable, at 10:30pm. You travelby jardineira (open-sided 4WD truck) as far as Jijoca, then by bus. The trip begins at Fretcar's office on Rua Sio Francisco, across lrom Jeri Central (p552) hostel. Buy tickets at least one dav in advance. You can also travel to Fortaleza in the tour vans of companies such as Girafatur (p542) and Vitorino (p542), which drop off at Fortaleza hotels (R$80 to R$100, five hours). Most accommodations can book these for you. The vans usually leave about9am and some sloplor Zt/z hours at Lagoa Paraiso, near Jijoca, en route. A private transfer to Fortaleza runs from R$500 to R$600. CAR lf travelling to Jeri by car, it's best to leave your vehicle in Jijoca, where there are safe parking lots for R$20 per day; it's easy to damage vehicles on the trip to Jeri, and rental insurance is void in the sand. Even if you make it to Jeri, unauthorized vehicles are not permitted to circulate in the town. From Jijoca, get a D-20 or buggy on to Jeri.

TOIFROM THE LENQ6IS MARANHENSES Moving on westward toward the Parque Nacional dos LenE6is Maranhenses (p564), there are several routes and combinations of vehicles for making the trip. To reach the Leng6is with local transport take a regular Fretcar bus from Jijoca to Camocim (R$12.15, 172 to 2% hours) and then the daily

3pm Expresso Guanabara (www.expressoguanabara.com.br) bus from Camocim to Parnaiba (R$22, two hours). It's necessary to spend the night in Parnaiba before taking the 5:30am bus to Tut6ia (R$20, 2% hours), from where there is a bus to Barreirinhas (R$16, two hours) at noon. lf you want to avoid the overnight stay it's also possible to take a night bus from Parnaiba to S6o Luis and then pick up a morning van or bus from to Barreirinhas, although it's a far longer trip. It's far quicker to take a straight one-day transfer in a private vehicle lrom Jeri. Local tour operators get you there in seven to nine hours

for around R$1000 to R$1200 per vehicle (up to four people) traveling to Camocim then along the highway to Barreirinhas. Try Global Connection (p555) which olfers regular shuttles and will fill unused seats with other travelers. They also sell a combination ticket from .Jericoacoara to Barreirinhas using two local van services (R$260) but it requires an overnight stay in Parnaiba, which adds to the price.

Heading to Jeri from the Len96is on local

transport, it's usually necessary to spend the night in Camocim unless you lork out for a private transfer for the last leg to Jericoacoara.

MARANHAO The atmosphere-laden colonial city of Sdo Luis, its tranquil but gorgeous neighbor Alcintarq and the wild natural beauty of the Parque Nacional dos I-eng6is Maranhenses have put the Northeast's furthest-flung stat€

firmly on the travel map. The coastal route

from Jericoacoara (Cear6) to the l€nQ6is Maranhenses is an adventure in itself.

Southern and eastern Maranhao characterized by vast expanses

axe

of

babagu (palms) and trpiul sertd,o @acldands of the Northeast) Iandscapes, but the stat€'s west-

ern and northwestern regions merge into humid Amazon rainforests.

Sf,o Luis Eoxxga z PoPl,091.868 The World Heritage-listed historical center ofSSo Luis is an enchanting neighborhood of steamy cobbled streets and pastel-colored colonial mansions, some handsomely re-

stored, many crumbling. It's a charming area with a unique atmosphere and one of the Northeast's best concentrations of museums, talleries and craft stores. Unfortunately, a general sketchiness pervades some ofits streets a.fter dark. The city as a whole has a markedly AfroBrazilian tinge to its culture, from a lively regigae scene to the highly colorful Bumba

Meu Boi (p56I) festivities. The trip across Baia de S5o Marcos to Alcintar4 an impressive historical town slumbering in regal decay, is an added reason to put Sao Luis on your itinerary. 56o Luis sits at the northwest corner of the sokm-long llha de 56o Luis, which is separated from the mainland only by narrow channels.

557

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6 History

SeoLuis

the only ciw in Brazil that was founded by the French. In 1612 three French ships sailed for Maranhao to try to commandeer a piece of South America. Once established at 56o Luis the French formed an aIliance with the local indigenous population, the Tirpinamba, to assail tribes around the mouth ofthe Amazon in an effort to expand

EEatinS

S5o Luis is

their foothold in the region. But when the inevitable Portuguese attack came in 1614, the French fled within a year. After a brief Dutch occupation between 164,1 and 164,4, Seo Luis developed gradually as a port for exporting suga.r, and later cotUon. The plantation owners prospered, and bythe eaxly 19th century Sao Luis was one of the wealthiest cities in Brazil, built on the bark of the labor ofAfrican slaves. Today the city has the third-highest Afro-Brazilian population in the country (after Rio and Salvador).

I

Cabana doSo1......................................81

2 CabanadoSo1....,.................................Dl

3

L'Apero.................................................

81

O Drinking & Nightlife

4

Bar do Nelson

D1

OEntertainment

5 Casa das Dunas

C1

OShopping

6 Ceprama.................................,............

84

When demand for 56o Luis'crops slackened later in the 19th century the ciW went

into a long decline, but the economy

has

been stimulated by several megaprojects in recent decades. In the lg80s a big port complex was constructed at Itaqui, just west of 56o Luis, to export the mineral riches of the

558

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Carajds in neighboring Par6 state, and Alcoa built an enorrnous aluminum-process-

ing plant on the highway south of the city; both constructions remain key to the city's economy today. Thanks to the restoration of many of S5o Luis' beautiful old buildings and its proximiw to the l,enQ6is Maranhenses, tourism has also become important.

O

s:gtrts of

tiles; often blue, or blue and white). The historical center has been under piecemeal restoration under Projeto Reviver (Project Revival) since the late 198os, following many decades of neglect and decay. Many of the restored buildings house interesting museums, Balleries, craft shops and restaurants. Many buildings still need to be restored and much work is stalled, but their state of int€rrupted repair is also part of the charm.

Sd.o Luis has the bestpreserved colonial neighborhood in the

Casa do

NortheasU it's full of l8th- and lgth-century mansions covered in colorful lgthtentury European azulejos (decorative ceramic

Etl-tl 5"1 in the former custorns house built right on the river mouth, this informative and

The center

MaranhSo

(Map p55& Rua do Trapiche;

MUSEUM

&

10am-6pm TueSun)

559

Central 56o Luis @ Sights I Casa do Maranhao.......-.........................A3 2 Casa do Nh02inho...................,.............. 83 3 Centro Cultural Vale Maranhtro............ 84 4 Centro de Cultura Popular Domingos Vieira Fi1ho........................................... 84 5 Centro de Pesquisa de Hist6ria

Natural e Arqueologia do Maranhao ............................................ 6 Mercado das Tulhas 7 Museo do Reggae NIaranhAo................ 8 Museu de Artes Visuais......................... 9 Museu do Negro .................................... lO Museu Hist6rico e Artistico do

U

C3

83 83 83 B5

Estado de Maran hao .......................... D3 Pa16cio dos Leoes..........,....................... 82

13 14 15 16

Lavinia... Reviver Palma Hostel..

Casa

Hostel

.......... 84 .......... 83 .......... C3

Pousada Colonial c4 17 Pousada Portas da Ama2dnia.............. 83

EEating 18 Dom Francisco....................................... 19 O Rei de BeiJu Recheado 20 Restaurante Senac...

83 B3 C3

O DrinkinA & Nightlife 21 Bar do Nelson

A3

22 cafofinho da Tia Dica............................ 83

O Shopping 23 Feirinha sao 1uis.....................,............. c3

tg Sleeping 12 Casa

Frankae

24 Mercado

Centra1.................................... D5

............ 85

(,

tn

,t P. colorful museum is dedicated to Maranhense culture and features a great collection of costumes and props ftom Camaval and Bumba Meu Boi. There are also displays on rivergoing boats ofthe region and explanations of Maranhdo's different kinds of drums. Some displays are accompanied by English texL Casa do

Nh6zinho

MUSEUM

(Map p558: Portugal 185; *9am-6pm Tue-Sun)

EEB At the eclectic and fascinating Casa do Nh6zinho, you can see a mllection of ingenious fish traps, rooms featuring MaranhSo indigenous artisanry, and hosts of colorful, delicate Bumba Meu Boi figurines made by the 2oth-century master axtisan Mestre Nh6zinho. It was closed for electrical work when we visited but was due to reopen imminently.

Maranh6o

CUTTURALCENTRE

(Map p558;

89832326363; www.ccv-ma.org.br; Av Henrique Leall49; &&m-8pm) This hip new cultural cent€r in a stylishly renovated colonial mansion in the heart of the historical center features rotating exhibitions of highquality local and national art. Also hosts performances and has a good cafe. It's funded by a multinational mining company, but the friendly sta.ff and guides are anything but corporate.

Museo do Reggae (Map p558;

498

Museu do

Negro

Maranhio

MUSEUM

9til37-2423; Rua da Estrela 124;

910am-8pm TueSat, 10am-1pm Sun)

EEB A

small, bright museum mvering the history of reglae music in MaranhSo. In addition to displays dedicated to the local axtists and promoters who bought the Caribbean sounds to these shores, there are listening posts ard a

MUSEUM

(Map p55& Jacinto Maia 43; admission R$2; S9am6pm Mon-Fri) ln this building that once housed

=

;' = t

o

a slave market (notice the absence of win- (n dows), the Museu do Negro exhibits relics o

r

of slavery including a replica whipping post c and a striking collection ofwood carvings and -n statuettes from West Africa It was closed for restoration when we visit€d but is slated to reopen soon.

Centro de Pesquisa de Hist6ria Natural e Arqueologia do Maranhao

(Map p558;

Centro Cultural Vale

replica ofthe Voz do Ouro Canarinho - one of the citfs most farnous mobile sound systems. It's worth engaging one of the free guides as there's few oelanatory notes. English and French speakers are available on request.

MUSEUM

www.cultum.ma.gw.br/porlal/cphna;

Rua do Giz 59; &&m-noon &2-6pm Mon-Fri) EEEB Contains exhibits of artifacts - from ancient ax heads to contemporaxy feather adornments - from Maranhio's indigenous cultures past and present, plus models of megafauna that roamed Maranhdo 95 million ye:Ils ago.

Centro de Cultura Popular Domingos Vieira Filho

MUSEUM

(Map p558; Rua do Giz 221; &9am-6pm Tue-Sun)

trEE en impressive lgth-century mansion housing four fascinating floors of exhibits on Sdo Luis' festiva"ls - Carnaval, Bumba Meu Boi and Divino Espirito Santo - and its Afro-Brazilian cults such as Umbanda and Thmbor de Mina. The friendly staffwill show you around and explain, but speakers of English or other non-Portugrrese languages are rarely available.

560 Mercado das

Tulhas

MARKET

(Map p558; Largo do Com6rcio; &7am-8pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) This l9th+entury market building now trades in an interesting

variety oftypical Maranhdo crafts and foods, from dried prawns and Brazil nuts to an axtificially colored purple cassava liquor called ti quir a and Maranhio's most hailed regional soda Guaran6 Jesus. It also has a couple of bars that get animated in late afternoon.

li

Museu Hist6rico e Artistico MUSEUM do Estado de MaranhSo (Map p558; www.cultura.ma.gw.brlportal,zmham; Rua do Sol 302: admision R$5; &9am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) In a restored 1836 mansion, the Museu Histdrico e Artistico is set out as it might have been in days ofyore, displayins aI the furnishings, valuables and everyday belongings of an upper-class lgth-century family. It's very well done. Entry includes a guided tour in Portuguese.

E Pal6cio dos Le6es lc

PALACE

k6es is the state governofs palace, built

in the 18th century on the site of the original French forl It still houses state Sovernment offces and the governot's residence but some (n rooms axe open to visitors; these contain a = wealth of valuable antique furnishings and I

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o

:

6'

art, mostly French from the t8th and lgth centuries. Visits include an obligalory guided

tour in Portuguese, English or French.

7i e"""lr.t The city's beaches are along the north-facing ocean coast, beginning about ,l,km north of the historical center. They can be busy and fun, but are far from Brazil's finest, and a distinct smell pervades most of the city's water. Beware of rough surf, tides and pollution.

Praia Ponta d'Areia is the closest beach to the center, and the busiest" with bars and restaurants for beach food. It can be polluted. Tlvo kilometers further along, Praia de 56o Marcos is frequented byyounger groups and surfers. The best tocal beach, Praia de Calhau is broad and attractive, with hard-packed sand perfect for football games. It is 9lan from the center and popular on weekends. The large bamacas lining the beach cater to latenight partiers throughout the weeh A short bus ride from Sdo Luis, the little fishing village of Raposa is a fine place for

a

Praia Grande (p564). Regular buses to Raposa leave from the central market (Map p558; AvGuaxenduba; S8am-4pm).

*d

Festivals & Events

S5o Luls has one

swim. Many local establishments offer

good-value seafood meals, and the water here tends to be cleaner than at the city beaches.

of Brazil's richest folkloric

traditions, evident

in its many

festivals, in-

cluding Carnaval. For two to three weeks between early May and early June the city celebrates the Festa do Divino Espirito Santo, which has a strong Afro-Brazilian influence. Sflo Luis' famous festival Bumba Meu Boi lasts through the second half of June. The Tambor de Mina festivals in July axe

important events for followers

of the

Afro-

Brazilian religions.

ll

Sleeping

*Palma

(Mapp558; AvDomPedroll; &&m-noon&2-5:30pm Thu & Fri,3-5:30pm Sat & Sun) l?!l':[l lhe PalScio

dos

You can reach Ponta d'Areia S5o Marcos and Calhau on bus 4,03 Ca]hau/Litor6nea (R$3.10) from the Terminal de Integra46o

Hostel

HosTEL$

(Map p558: 898 3182-8787: Rua da Palma 142; long overdue in dmls/d R$50/80/110;

EE)

the historical cente! this bright and well-run hostel is the perfect base for budget travelers. It offers spotless colorful dorms with single beds - no bunk - and neat private rooms with good bathrooms. The fantastic common areas have plenty of comff seating, and there are elegant decorative touches throughout. Brealdast is served in the courtyard.

Frankie

PousADAg Casa (Map p558; 898 3222-8198; www.casafrankie. com; Rua do Giz 394: s/d/tr without bathroom R$80/100/120, ste R$140; ts@68) The historical center's best deal is overseen by a low-key Dane, who has restored this coloni-

al mansion

- a former brothel - into simple

but superb budget sleeps. Rooms are huge but it's the common spaces - including a breezy veranda with fine original shutters, a lovely pool and a patio that wraps around a very

giving mango tree - that set it apart.

Pousada Portas da (Map p558;

Amaz6nia

pousAoAs

898

3182-8787; www.portasdaamazo nia.mm.br; Rua do Giz 14); s/d/tr R$115/140470 ste

s/d/t R$145A85/225; EE) Rambling, crealv old corridors in this restored mansion lead around two patiogardens to attractive ard comfortable rooms with good mattresses and modern air-con. The master suites are way roomier and have much more character than the rather polry regular rooms. Street-side rooms can be noisy. You can take the good buffet breakfast in one ofthe courtyards.

56r BUMBA MEU BOI Szo Lufs is famous for its Bumba Meu Boi a fascinating and wild folkloric festival. Derived from African, indigenous and Portuguese influences, it's a rich mixture of music, dance and theater, with fantastic and colorful costumes and masks. ln a Carnavalesque atmosphere, participants dance, sing, act and tell the story of the death and resurrection of the bull - with plenty of room for improvisation. The festivities take place all over Maranhao, and in Sdo Luis alone some 400 groups take to the streets every June. New songs, dances, costumes and poetry are created every year. The story and its portrayal differ throughout the Northeast, but the general plot is as follows: Catrina, goddaughter of the local farm owner, is pregnant and feels a craving to eat the tongue of the best bol (bull) on the farm. She ca.joles her husband, Chico, into killing the beast. when the dead bull is discovered, several characters (caricatures drawn from all levels of society) track down the perpetrator of the crime. Chico is brought to trial, but the bull is resuscitated by magic incantations and tunes. A pardon is granted, and the story reaches its happy ending when Chico is reunited with Catrina. Groups traditionally start rehearsing on Easter Saturday in preparation for the'baptism' of their bol on June 13, the feast of Santo Ant6nio, or June 23, the feast of Sao Joao. Many rehearsals are open to the public, and some groups begin months before Easter; check with tourist offices or your accommodations for schedules. During the festival, several groups perform in different places in the city every night from June 13 to 30. The more commercial performances may last only one hour, while local community celebrations can go on all nlght. Things get especially lively on the nights of June 23 to 24 and 29 to 30. The Bumba lvleu Boi period is also a good time to catch other Af ro-Brazilian cultural manifestations, such as the Tambor de Crioula dance performed by women.

Reviver

Hostel (Map p558;

HosrELS

898

3213-9955; Rua de Nazar6 dmls,zd without bathroom R$35/50//0) A work in progress when we visited, this spacious new hostel in a huge renovated house has a good central location and plenty ofpotential. Rooms are la.rge and airy but very basic. There are several good common areas and a decent kitchen overlooking the atmospheric statue-filled garden.

200; s/d R$70l90,

Colonial

Pousada

pousADAg

)(

sheets, split-system air+on and, in a few cas-

*Casa

old-town rooftops.

Lavinia

(Map p558;

B&Bss

E

98-3232-9959; www.casalavinia.com: Rua do Giz 380; d/VqR$240/280/320; B 6) The

Italian owners have achieved a uuly gorgeous conversion of this lgthrentury mansion. The four big beautiful rooms boast four-poster beds, polished-wood floors and sflish, uncluttered demr and furnishings from Africa,

=

-

l./>

o C

herb oinagreira). Unfortunately the culinary scene in the historical center is rather sparse

(and almost nonexistent on Sundays), and foodies must head out to the northern beachofthe best options.

Recheado

FAsTFooDs

(Map p558: Rua da Estr0la &Alfindega; beijus R$58; 06-10pm, to 2am Fri & Sat) The best cheap

eats in the historical center can be found at this friendly roadside stand on the Largo do Com6rcio that serves delicious savory and sweet filled beijus (cassava flour pancakes). They're all good, but the shrimp in coconut milk vrith cheese is outstanding. Also makes a mean hamburger.

*Restaurante

Senac

BUFFETgg

(Map p558; Rua de Naar6 242; lunch buffet R$42;

6)

&noon-3pm Mon-Sat; Showpiece for the Sdo Luis branch of Brazil's best-known cook-

ing school, this place gets packed at lunch-

time for its superb all-you-can-eat buffet, which includes

o r

56o Luisb specialty is arroz de cu.td(rice with shrimp, toasted sesame andthe slightlybitter

O Rei de Beiju

es, views over the

F

erting

@ED6) A certain colonial charm pervades

and out. The rooms don't quite live up to the ambience; some have no natural light, but they do offer new mattresses with crisp

= c

rooms in your average pousada An excellent breal.

o ! D

a C r

z.

9 o

z.

-

Just upriver from the I Cisne Branm (p567) bus stop, Pousada do o Porto's best-value rooms are its upstairs units U) with river views; there's a small social area out rr the back with views across to a forested area z

\

94

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17e

-\

I

la

Aguiar

e

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Bittencourt

\ Av Conselheiro

R

Furtado

dos

R Dos Pariquis

576

BeI6m OTop Slghts

I

Estaqao das Docas ................................ C3 ............................. 84

2 Mercado Ver-o"Peso

Oslstts 3

A6

4 Catedral da

A6

Casa das Onze Janelas... 56........................................ 5 Forte do Presepio .................................. 6 Museo do Clrio.....................................,. 7 Museu de Arte Sacra............................. 8 Museu do Estado do ParS ..................... 9 Palacio Antonio Lemos & MA8E........... lO Teatroda Paz.........................................

A5

45 A6

86 86 E5

O Entertalnment

OActlvltles, Cources & Tours 11

Valeverde........

..........C4

N

o

am

g

12 Amazonia Hostel 8e16m........................ G4 13 Grand Hostel Be16m..............................D5 14 Hotel Della 1una........................,............A6 15 Hotel Princesa 1ou91............................ E5 16 Manaca Hotel .......... H5 OVibe Hostel & Arts...............................G5 18 Radisson Hotel Maiorana Be16m..........G5 19 Residencia Karimbo Amazonia ............ E3

.

u

3l

OTr.nsport 34

Sacra

MUSEUM

indefinitely for renovations when we last passed by, this

it

reopens, has two parts:

the impressive I8reja do Santo Alexandre and the adjoining Pal6cio Episcopal (Bishop's Palace). Santo Alexandre was Bel€m's first church, founded by Jesuits in the ear-

ly Vth century and

contains incredible cedar and plaster detailing. The rambling Bishop's Palace has a decent co)lection of modern art, though is frequently closed for

events or maintenance.

Cirio

MUSEUM Museo do (J6ao Alfredo: adult/child R$4/2, free Tue; Sl0am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-lpm Sat & Sun) The many idiosyncrasies of Bel€m's famous religious festiva.l, the CIrio de Nazar€, are explained in this handsome museum, from the discovery of a tiny statue of Mary in a riverbank in U00, to the story behind the 4,00m, 4,50k9 rope that's now such an integra.l part of the procession, the faithful masses jostling for a chance to touch or

pull it.

D1

Rodofluvial BANAV....................,.. (see 34) San Marino.................................... (see 34) Terminal Hidroviaria .................... (see 34)

l)

(Praga Frei Brandio) Closed

museum, once

AR Transporte

35 Arapari Navi8a9ao..............................,.. 46

20 Casarao 8ocairirvas................................ G3 Estag5o das Docas ......................... (see

Boulevard Shoppin9.............................. G2

32 Feira de Artesanato................................ E5 33 lmperador das Redes............................ D5 Mercado Ver-o-Peso ...................... (see 2)

EE tlng

Museu de Arte

1)

@Shopplng

@Sleeplng

lr

Cine Estaqao....................................(see

Catedral da

56 I

(Praga Frei BnndSo;

cHURcH

7am-noon & 2'7:30pm)

EEB

After years of slow, sad decline, Bel€m's historic cathedral is once again radiant, thanks to a mqjor renovation. The exterior gleams a brilliant white, wtrile the soaring interior has polished marble floors and intricate Smmetric designs on the walls and ceiling, and oversized paintings of the Virgin Mary and other saints in ornat€ Bold+ncmsted frarnes.

@

East ofthe Center

Basilica Santuario de

Nazar6

(www.basilicadenazare.om.brlsite;

EE

cHuRcH

Praqa Justo

Rather humChermont; S5:30am€pm) drum from the outside, the Ba.sflica Santuario de Nazar€ has a truly spectacular interior. Sink into a cushioned pew and admire the soaring marble columns, brilliant stainedgla.ss

windows and ornate wood and tile

work in every direction, even the ceiling. The ba.silica is the focal point ofBrazil's largpst re ligious festival, Clrio de Nazar€, which draws more than a million worshippers to B€l€m on the second Sunday in October.

577 Museu Emilio Goeldi & Parque

Zoobotinico

(891 3219-3300;

www.museu-goeldi.br;

zoo

Av Gov-

ernador Magalhies Barata 376; adulVchild R$3/l; (39am-5pm Tue-Sun) This museum and zoo

contains Amazonian species, from anacondas and white-whiskered squirrel monkeys to jaguars and giant river ott€rs, plus an avia.ry, small aquarium and an exhibition hall with rotating exhibits on everlthing from an environmental history of the Amazon to cultural artifacts. The grounds are lovely with some towering trees, but most enclosures are pretty depressing - it remained unclear at the time of writing whether a planned overhaul will improve things. It gets very busy on weekends.

Bosque Rodrigues

Alves

zoo

(Jardim Zoo Botiinico da Amaz6nia; A9l 32n1112; www.belem.pa.gov.br; Av Almirante Banoso 2305; adulVchild R$2/1; &8am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Bosque Rodrigues Alves' aging but wellmaintained animal enclosures (which harbor tapir, bird, feline and primate species) and wide, tree-shaded paths are especially nice for families, with huge, curious structures including a castle and replica grotto. From the center, take any'Alm Borroso'bus, and Bet off when you see the park's long yel-

low exterior wall.

@

Tours

There are plenty of possibilities for getting out on the river. They include:

Amazon Star Turismo (A91

3212-6244:

www.amazonstar.com.br; Henrique Gurjio 56; S&m-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Organizes day

trips around Bel6m, including birdwatching, nature walks and city tours (per person R$150 to R$300), plus overnight tours combining these options, and multiday packages to Ilha de Maraj6. Valeverde (891 3218-R33; www.valeverde turismo.com.br; EstaqAo das Docas) Runs a variety of short tours on the river (per person R$50 to R$175), including sunrise trips and

pleasant evening cruises. Valeverde has an offrce and daily schedule at the pier at Estaeio das Docas; simply show up.

{d

in most

cases you can

Festivats & Events

Every year on the moming of the second

i

Sunday of October, Bel6m explodes with the sounds ofhymns, bells and fireworks. Start- ,'r

ed in 1793, the Cirio de Nazar6 is Brazil's biggest religious festival. People ftom all over the country flock to Bel6m, and even

camp in the streets, to participate in grand

event.

!

F

5

the z

SURF THE POROROCA! Every month or so, when alignment of the sun and moon makes tides their strongest, powerful waves can form at the mouth of certain rivers and barrel upstream with tremendous force. The phenomenon - which occurs when the tide briefly overpowers the force of the river - is technically a 'tidal bore' but in Brazil is better known as the pororoca, an indigenous word for'mighty noise.'And no wonder: the waves can reach heights of 4m and speeds of 3okm/h, and can rip full-sized trees off the bank with their force. All of which is music to the ears of extreme surfers (and wave-surfing kayakers) in search of the mythic 'endless wave.'The record for the longest ride is 37 minutes, covering nearly 13km. Surfers generally report th e pororoca to be stronger than a like-sized ocean wave, and it constantly changes size and speed according to the river's contours. What's more, the water is loaded with debris that's been swept off the shore and river bottom, including tree trunks and abandoned canoes. (At least the caimans tend to stay away.) The National Pororoca Surfing Championship has been held at the town of S3o Domingos do Capim, 12Okm east of Bel6m on the Rio Guam6, since 1999. (A related competition is held on the Rio Araguari in Amap5.) The event usually takes place in March, on the full moon nearest the spring equinox, when the pororoca is strongest. The bash draws top-ranked surfers and includes street fairs. cultural performances, even a Mrss Pororoca competition. A paved road makes getting there easier, though there still is no direct service; from Bel6m, go to Castanhal and transfer. Alternatively, Amazon Star Turismo, a travel agency in Bel6m, o(ganizes pororoca packages.

E

g'

578 The diminutive image of NS de Nazar€ (Our l,ady of Nazareth) is believed to have been sculpted in Nazareth (Galilee) and to have performed miracles tugal before getting lost

in medieval

Por-

Brazil. It was rediscovered in 1700 by a humble cattleman on the site of the basilica to which it lat€r retumed of its own accord, apparently a"fter

in

being moved away several times. The day before the main annual event" the little statue, having previously been taken 23km north to Icoaxaci, is carried in a river procession back to the cathedral in Bel6m.

On the Sunday itsel( well over a million people fill the streets to accompany the image from the Catedral da 56 to the Basilica

li 2

@

m

5.

=

Santuario de Nazar6. The image is placed on a flower-bedecked carriage, and thousands squirm and jostle in an emotional frenzy to get a hand on the 4,00m rope pulling the carriage. Five hours andjust 35kn from the cathedral, the Virgin reaches the basilic4 where she remains for the duration of the festivities.

lH

Sleeping

Grand Hostel

Bel6m

HosrELs

(891 3355-8889; wwwgnndhostelbelem.com;

Av

Presidente Vargas 646; dm R$50, d with shared/ private bathroom R$90/120: E 6 ) This central

hostel overlooks Pra4a da Repriblica and has brightly painted rooms with a mix of dorms and private rooms. It has a fun vibe and sta"ff are clued in to travelers' needs. It gets a lot of repeat visitors, which is the best recommendation we can make. Residencia KarimboAmaz6nia GUEsrHousEg (E 91 3298-BR; www.rkamazoniabrasil.sitew.com; Travessa Piedade 391 d/tr R$145485) A true guesthouse, the French-Brazilian owners live in the front part of the house, while visitors stay in five comfortable rooms, with bright artful decor, new bedding and well-appointed bathrooms. A VIP room (first come, flrst

served) has a private balcony overlooking

the hotel's garden are4 with a small pool and attractive wood patio.

Hotel Della

Luna

HoTELS

(Hotel Portas da Amazdnia: @9L3222-9952; www.

portasdaamazoniabelempara.com.br; Praga Frei Caetano Brandao; s R$100'145, d R$f50-200;

ts6) A former mansion with a

gorgeous

tite facade, this attractive hotel has just nine rooms and a recommended pizzeria- Huge front rooms have large windows overlooking Pra.ga Brand6o, but they're also subject to the frequent tolling of nearby cathedral

bells. Rear rooms have less light, but high ceilings and exposed brick. The area can get a bit dodgy late at night.

Bel6m

HosrELg Amaz6nia Hostel (U91 3278-4355; www.amazoniahostel.com.br; Av Governador Jos6 Malcher 592; dm R$54'

s/d R$8Vfll, s,/d without bathroom R$7V103; EBCI6) A century-old rubber-baron mansion in a safe area is the perfect home for Bel6m's longest-running youth hostel. Smallish dorms have solid bunks and large lockers, plus .1,m ceilings and gorgeous wood

floors. Internet, kitchen and laundry are welcome features. Prices are high for a hos-

tel, a"nd management is oddly stinry with breakfast and linens, but it's still a pleasant spot. HI discount available.

Arts

*oviu.

(A9l

HosrElss Hostel & 3349-0008; www.ovibe.com.br; Travessa

&niamin Constant

1374;

dmlf R$75l450: B

@

6

)

This snazzy hostel has wonderftrl decor and a real artsy vibe. The rooms feature lovely wrought-iron furnishings and daring artistic flourishes at every turn. The location is ideal, in a relatively quiet comer of town but within walking distance ofjust about everywhere.

*Manaci

(891

Hotel

HorELSS

3222-9224: www.manacahotel.com'br; Travessa Quintino Bocai0va 1645; s/d/tr R$160/195/225: ts68) Rooms in this boutique hotel are cDzy and up to date (though a bit dark), v/hile the common areas have beautiful wood and stone floors, and creative artwork on the walls. The neighborhood is equally appealing, with stylish shops and restaurants nearby. Small swimming pool.

Atrium Hotel Quinta De Pedras HoTELS$ (891 3199-1603; wwwjacebook.com/atrium quintadepedras; Doutor Assis 834; s/d/apt from R$170/230/315) One of Bel€m's b€st river-side choices, this place is a curious mix of a hand-

some old facade, contemporary design riffs

in the public spaces, and tidy if unremarkable rooms with tiled floors. What you gain in proximiW to the river you lose in convenience - it's a long walk to some areas of town.

Hotel Princesa (E 91 4006-7000;

Lougi

HorELss

www.hotelprincesalouc.site;

Presidente Vargas 882; r R$239'395:

Av

E@EE)

Formerly the Hilton Bel6m, Princesa Louqd has fallen from gxace somewhat but continues as one of Bel6m's largest downtown hotels, centrally located opposite Pra4a da Repriblica offering business class mmfort

579

with a midrange price tag. Amenities include business center, exercise room, lobby bar and swimming pool. Rooms are spacious and reasonably modern; those on the top floors have river views. Radisson Hotel Maiorana

(E9l

Bel6m

HoTEL$SS

3205-lil99; www.radisson.com; Av Bras de fuuiar 321; s/d R$250/390) In a city that lacks

top-end hotels, the Radisson choice. The rooms are modern

f

estagSo das

Docas

(www.estacaodasdocas.com.br;

FooDHALLss

Blvd

Castilho

Franga; &noon-midnight Sun-Wed, noon-3am Thu-Sat) One of the best places in Bel€m to eat, no matter what you're hungry for. The bustling complex has almost a dozen restaurants, most with indoor and outdoor

seating, open for lunch, dinner and late-

is a reliable night feasting. Favorites include L6 em Cas4 serving pricey but outstanding reand large, algional food, and Amazon Beer, with delectable pub grub to accompany its artisanal

though some of the suites are oddly shaped. The breaKast buffet is one ofthe best in the city; the same can be said for the rooftop swimming pool. Ask for a room on the up-

beer.

per floors.

(0

X

com.br; Av Br6s de Aguiar 593; mains R$14-45;

e"ting

sEAFooDs f Rei oo Bacalhau (Dil 3241-5824; Travessa Campos Sales 216;

Mango 91 3199-2731;

Sll30am-4pm

CAFE ss wwwmangoalimentacaosaudavel.

&

Tue-Sun

6-10pm Tue-Sat;

tr)

Wildly popular with Bel€m's hip young crowd, Mango is devoted to the art of

mains from R$15; &8am-6pm) The 'King of healthy eating with fab dishes such as duck Cod' is a Bel6m classig with cheap and burger and grilled mango for dessert. Tercheerful service and fresh street-food staples rific juices, salads. light quiches and sandstraight from the nearby fish market. It's no. wiches round off a fine choice, with plenty ofoptions forvegetarians. frills, which makes us love it all the more.

Agai

Burger

Restaurant Point do BRAZTLIAN8$ Porpino BURGERSS (@91 3212-2lffi; www.pointdoacai.net; Blvd Cas(1291 3202-5900; www.facebook.com/porpino burger; Jerdnimo Pimentel 242: burgers from tilhos Franga 714; mains R$zl6-78; 911am-4pm R$20; &noon-midnight) The good people of Sun-Tue, to l0:30pm Wed-Sat) This enduringly Bel6m love their burgers, and this small popular place a block back from the waterchain is the pick of a rather plentiful bunch front is named after the agatberry, which of hamburger grills. The recipe for success has taken Brazil by storm with its antioxiis simple: fast service, terrific sesame buns dant properties. They do excellent steaks, and highquality meats. There are other Amazon fish fillets (both fried and Srilled), outposts around town, including in the as well as drinks made from said berry. Boulevard Shopping Mall (8913299-0500; www.boulevardbelem.com.br; za Franco

Eti

Av Visconde de Sou-

Tl6i & l0am-10pm).

Mariqueti

CAFES

(@ 91 3223 -27 14; www.etimariqueti.com.br; Av 816s deAguiar232; snacksfrom R$1; &9am-8pm) This

cool and contemporary cafe is popular with well-heeled locals looking for good coffee served up with an enticing range of sweet and salw treats.

f

La em

Casa

Le

Bistrot

(891

75; &7pm-midnight Tue-Sat) This charming French bistro right by the cathedra-l serves French specialties from croque monsieur +&filet de bouef au Roquefor, in a gorgeous century-old mansion. The service rubs some travelers up the wrong v/ay, although French

visitors don't seem to mind. Casar6o

BRAzrLrANSs

(E

91 3212-5588: www.laemcasa.com; Av Marechal Hermes, Estagio das Docas; mains R$28-70, set

menu for U2 people R$72/120\ Around since 1972, La em Casa is an excellent choice for

Par6 specialties centered around Amazon fish and duck dishes, as well as Brazilian barbecued meats. Tty the Par6 tasting menu to sample the local flavors; if you snag a riverside table on a wann Amazonian nighg you'Il love being here even more.

FREN0H$S

98411-2660; Rua Dr Malcher 15; mains R$40-

(891

Bocaiivas

sEAFooDgg

8112-6300; www.facebook.com/casaraobocaiuvas; Travessa Quintino Bocairlva 945; mains R$25-50; &11:30am-3:30pm & 6:30-11:45pm Thu & Sun,11:30am-2:30am Fri & Sat) If you've visit-

ed a Parii bearh town, you'll recognize some of the dishes at this popular restaurant. Caranguejo (crab feast) is an Algodoal staple and a crowd favorite, served with a hammer for cracking the shells. And then there's the buffalo fillet, a taste of Ilha Maraj6. The pizza is great too.

-i I !=fi ?

s80

Q

orinrlng & Nighttife

*car"

Bel6m has a busy evening scene, although there's little that rises above the pack Av Visconde de Souza Franco has several bars and clubs, where you can simply follow the music to find the current hot spot.

fAmazon

Beer

(491 322-5400:

BEERHALL

www.amazonbeer.com.br; Av & Spm-lam)

(Ag

Grill

Marujos (D9132424809; das Docas;

I-{ I-

Irr I> I= ,>,

I

Av Marechal Heremes, Estaqlo

&llam-lam) Outdoor tables have

river views at this lively but low-key bar-restaurant. There's the Torre de Chope (Tower of Beer), a 2.5liter silo of suds for just R$55, plus a long list of beers and cocktails of the non-gargantuan variety. occasional musical performances, for which a cover of R$8 may be added to your bill.

@

m

BAR

Bar

Fiteiro

H (AY

BAR

U24-0075;

wwwtucebook.com/FiteiroBelem; Av Visconde de Souza Franco 555, at Senador Lemos; &Spm-Iam Sun-Fri, from noon Sat) This

spacious, colorftrl bar has a fun, irreverent air and a mmmitment to not let its customers go hungry - in fact, the bais tagline is'\Me Have Food.' There's live music most nights, often paired with a dish or drinlg like'Feijoada com Samba'on Saturday afternoons.

Bar

BAR Gapital Lounge (E 91 3249-0056; www.capitalloungebar.com.br; Av Br6s de Aguiar 420; & 7pm-3am Wed-Sat) A huge Union Jack and other flags from axound the world sugBest an old-school English pub, but

the sleek booths, creative cocktails and pulsing DJ-mixed music give this much more of a club vibe. There's restaurant service, but the real action gpts start€d long after dinner time. Popular with Bel€m's jet set.

*

entertainment

Teatro da Paz (p573) holds a variew oftheatrical events, ftom plays to symphonies to international dance performances. Most events have sameday tickets available. Otherwise, Casa do Gilson (p580) is a revered stage for live music, including samba and more.

Gilson

LrvEMUstc

son: Travessa Padre Eutlquio 3172; &Spm-3am Fri, from noon Sat & Sun) Come here for Bel6m's

best live music. Opened in l98Z Gilson's attracts crowds tvith first-rate samb4 choro

(improvised sambalike genre) and other music, and terrific food and atmosphere' It's between ruas Nova and Thmb6s.

Marechal Hermes, Estagao das Docas;

As much as Brazilians love bee! it's can be surprisingly tough to find anything heftier than a pilsner. This award-winning brewery is an exception, with an amber ale, a Dutch witbier (whear beer), an IPA and even an aQal sl'rl.;/,t, all brewed on-site. Indoor and outdoor seating, a full menu and souvenir beer glasses for sale. Gets busy.

do

3272-7306: www.tucebook.com/casadogil-

Cine

Estag5o

(491

cINEMA

3212-5615:

www.estacaodasdocas.com. br; Estag5o das Docas; R$15) Cine Estz4eo has

monthJong runs of Brazilian and interna-

tional aft films, ttpically with screenings twice-nightly three or four days per week

6

snoppine

lmperadordasRedes

spoRTS&ourDooRs

(891 3241-€63;

Padre Eutlquio, at Riachuelo; S7:30am-5pm Mon'Fri, &m-2pm Sat) Large

hammock store, with everything from light, simple varieties to deluxe matrimonial ones with lace fringe and more (R$40 to $150). Mercado

Ver-o-Peso

MARKET

S5am-6pm) This is Bel6m's best place to browse and shop, whether for long pants, lacquered piranha or anything in between. Par6 has gained national att€ntion with technobrega musig a defiantly fromthe-streets genre whose best collections

(Av Castilho Franga;

arert't sold in stores but on amat€ur CDs in Ver-o,Peso (and on YouT[be). Be wary of pickpockets in the early and late hours. Feira de

Artesanato

MARXEI

A large crafts fair that has the city's biSgest range of attractive artworh a lot of which is homemade. It's especially busy on Sundays. (Praea da Rep[blica; STam-3pm Fri-Sun)

@ lnformation DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Pickpocketing is a problem in Mercado Ver-oPeso and the Comercio districts, although a recently increased police presence in the former has improved things a little. Take care during the day and avoid both at night. Take a cab if you're returning late from bars or the movies. Pollce (891 3222-2602, 190; Av Marechal Heremes, EstagZo das Docas: & 24hr) ln the Estagio das Docas complex by the river. Tourist Pollce (CIPTUR) (D 9l 3222'2602; 28 de Setembro) City'center police station. Tourist Pollce (CtPTUR) (E 91 3212-0948; Praga Waldemar Henrique s/n, Paratur 0ffice) Another riverside police station.

581 LAUNDRY

Turvicam (E 91 3201-5465; www.turvicam.com. br; Av Presidente Vargas 636; S 8am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, to lpm Sat) There's a foreign exchange desk out the back of this travel agency.

Laundromat (12 91 3224-0529; Av Serzedelo Correia, at Av Bittencourt; R$30 per basket; Q 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat) Next-day service. Lav & Lev (1291 3223-7247; Travessa Dr Moraes 576, at Av Conselheiro Furtado: S8am6pm Mon-Sat) Drop-off service costs R$15 per wash cycle (7kg max), R$15 per dry cycle (some loads may require more than one) plus a R$15 service charge. For R$25 more, they'll pick up and drop off at your hotel. MEDICAL SERVICES

Hospital Adventista de Bel6m (1r

POST

Main Post Office (Lj 91 3211-3147; Av Prestdente Vargas 498; * 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) TOURIST INFORMATION

(D91 3212-0575; www.paraturismo. pa.gov.br; Praga Waldemar Henrique; E8am2pm Mon-Fri) A reasonably helpful branch office of the state tourism department.

SETUR

91 30848686; www.hab.org.br; Av Almirante Barroso 1758) 0ne of the better private hospitals.

AIR

MONEY

Airport

Bradesco (Av Presidente Vargas 988, at Rua Silva Santos; *10am-1pm & 2-4pm Mon-Fri)

(A

@ Cettlng There & Away

Bel6m's Aeroporto lnternacional Val-de-Cans 91 3210-6000; www.infraero.gov.bQ is a hub for international, domestic and regional flights.

Bank with {oreign exchange services.

Estagao das Docas (Blvd Castilhos Franga) Numerous ATMs in a secure setting.

AroundBeI6m

r

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RiverboatTravel Rivers are roads in the Amazon, and riverboat trips are a uniquely Amazonian experience. Trips are long and languid, measured in days instead of hours, with vessels transporting passengers as well as all manner of goods. Much of the time is spent on the boat's upper deck' watching the scenery glide by, knocking back beers, and talking and laughing over the ever-blasting music. The middle deck is where hammocks are slung, providing a place to read, nap or practice Portuguese with your neighbor. Night falls quickly and decisively, and night skies on the river can be spectacular.

no chance of seeing wildlife and boats typically travel far from shore. Consider taking a boat for one leg, and flYing the others: air and boat fares can be surprisingly comparable, and you'll have more time for tours and other activities. The two-day boat trip between Bel6m and Santar6m is an interesting one, passing through the tidal zone around Bel6m, the narrows of Breves, the high bluffs around Monte Alegre and finally the main channel near Santarem. (The Santardm-Manaus le8, by contrast, follows the main channel only.) The Rio Negro, especially the upper regions, has fairly little boat traffic, and winds

For most people a two- to three-day trip through massive archipelagos. Porto Velho to Manaus, along the Rio Mais plenty. For all its romantic appeal, deira, is another good choice, a scenic riverboat travel can get rather tedious, backdoor route to the Amazon. pounding of especially with the constant the music and engine. There's virtually

583

a I

a

----st5

E

8

II

@

l.

Amazon riverboat,

Santar6m (p590)

2. Riverboats, Negro, Manaus

3. Hammocks

Rio

(p606) on a

riverboat

E

TopTips .) You'll need a hammock and rope, as well as a light sheet in case the temperature drops. Most boats have a few private cabins, with bunks, private bathrooms and air-conditioning, though for the price you may as well fly. t Get to the boat early to secure a good hammock spot. Away from the restrooms is best.

'f Buffet-style meals are sold (or included) on all boats, but are notoriously unsanitary. Instead, stick with made-toorder burgers and sandwiches sold from the boat's grill.

t

Bring water, dry snacks and extra toi-

let paper.

i

Theft isn't rampant, but foreigners make tempting targets. Be especially alert

k-

when the boat stops in port, which can be in the middle of the night. I Never leave cameras, cell phones or other valuables unattended in your hammock, and keep your backpack zipped and ]ocked.

+ Make friends with the passengers around you, as they can keep an eye on your 8ear. .) Bring a thin cable and lock to secure your bag to one of the boat's center poles.

t

Some thieves will snatch a promising piece of luggage and jump overboard; an accomplice waiting in a motorboat fishes thief and bag from the river and zips away to salvage whatevefs not waterlogged. Victims can't jump in after them and captains will not stop or turn around.

584 Airlines Azul (80800-887-1118, 91 4003-1118: www. voeazul.com.br) Flights to Santar6m, MacapS, Altamira, CuiabS, Campinas, Fortaleza and Belo Horizonte among other destinations. Also flies to Miami. Gol (E91 3210-6312, 0800-704-0465; www. voegol.com.br) Serves numerous domestic and international destinations. LATAM (491 3212-2166; www.latam.com) Extensive domestic and international network. UAP (E in Manaus 92 2125-5000; www. voemap.com.br) Flies to Altamira and Santar6m. Suranam Airways (A9l 3222'4831, 91 32106432; www.flyslm.com) Flies to Cayenne (French Guiana) and Paramaribo (Suriname). TAP (Air Portugal A 0800-727 -2347: www. flytap.com) Flights to Lisbon. BOAT All long-distance boats leave Bel6m from the handsomely renovated Termlnal Hidroviiria (Av Marechal Hermes). You can purchase tickets from the booths inside the terminal, but an easier and more reliable option is to contact Amazon Star Turismo (p577), whose multilingual staff can book boat tickets, including over the phone or internet, for trips to orfrom Bel6m, for no extra cost.

t

I{ IInr ID I-

-> E @

m

H

AR Transporte (E 91 3224'1225: www.artrans porte.com.br) and San llarlno (0 in Manaus 93 9917 9 -1222; www.f acebook.com/Ferryboat.san marinoll) offer boat service to and from Manaus and most points along the way. At last check, boats to Manaus left Wednesday and Saturday, plus every other Tuesday, at 6pm with stops at Monte Alegre (hammock/hammock with aircon/cabin with air-con/cabin with air-con and bathroom R$2O0/ 230 /750 /950, three days), Santar6m (R$230/2701800/1000, four days), Parintins (R$330/370/950/1100, f ive days), and Manaus (R$370/400/1000/1200, six days); cabins rates are for two people. Meals are not included, but you can purchase food on board.

Arapari Navigageo (891 3241'4977i Siqueira Mendes 120) and Rodofluvial BANAV (D91 3269 - 449 4; www. banav.com.br) alternate

service to llha de Maraj6, with daily ferries from Bel6m to Camara, (R$25 standard, R$40 'VlP' with air-con and airplane-style seating, three hours) at 6:30am and 2:30pm Monday to Saturday, and 10am on Sunday. BUS

Bel6m's long-distance bus station (Av Almirante Barroso) is 3km east of the town center. Maior destinations may be served by several lines, while leito and semi-leito (overnight sleeper) seats are available on some longer routes. ln addition to the long-distance bus services, Sinprovan (D 91 3226-5879) operates frequent services to Marud6 (R$36,3'l hours) in airconditioned minibuses.

($ Cetting Around The long-distance bus station is on the corner of Av Almirante Barroso and Av Governador Jos6 Malcher, 3km east of the city center. To get there from the center, take any 'Guama - P Vargas' bus (316) from Av Presidente Vargas. To get from the station into town, turn right out of the terminal and cross to the diagonally opposite corner; buses line up on the AV Borroso in order to turn right onto Av Governador Jos6 Malcher. toward Praga de RepIblica. A taxi lrom the bus terminal costs R$20 to R$25. TOlFROM THE AIRPORT

Aeroporto lnternacional Val de CSns is 8km north of the center on Av J0lio C6sar. The 'Pratinha - Pres Vargas' bus (638) runs between the airport and Av Presidente Vargas (R$3, 40 minutes): the 'E Marex' bus also goes there, but you may have to change buses at the depot (no charge). Arriving by plane, turn left as you leave the terminal; buses stop at the traffic circle about 50m past the end of the terminal. A taxi between the airport and center is a fixed R$50 when booked inside the terminal; you may be able to catch one for less at the bus stop, though they pass somewhat i

nfrequently.

BUSES FROM BELEM DESTINATION COSTFROM(RS) DURATION(HRS) COMPANY

Altamlra 197 Brasllia 255 Fortalcza 170

14 35 24

Sahrador 489 146 S5o luls

35 13

Boa Esperanqa (www.viajeboaesperanca.com.br) Repido Maraj6 (www.rapidomarajo.com.br)

Guanabara(www.expressoguanabara.com.br), Itapemirim (www.itapemirim.com.br) ltaperim (www.itaperim.com.br) Boa Esperanga (www.viaieboaesperanca.com.br), R6pido Marai6 (www.rapidomaralo.com.br)

585 BOOKS ABOUT THE AMAZON Countless books have been written about the Amazon. Notable ones available in English include: + The Cloud Forest (Peter Matthiessen; 1961)

+ The Burning Season: The Murder of Chico Mendes and the Fightfor the Amazon Rain Forest (Andrew Revkin; 1990)

) . . t

The Smithsonian Atlas of the Amazon (Michael Goulding et al; 2003) The River of Doubt: Theodore Roosevelt's Darkest Journey (Candice Millard; Tree of Rivers: The Story of the Amazon (John Hemming;

2005)

2008)

The Thief at the End of the World: Rubber, Power, and the Seeds of Empire (Joe

Jackson:2008) + Fordlandia: The Rise and Fall of Henry Ford's Forgotten Jungle City (Greg Grandin; 2009)

t

The Lost City of Z: A Tale of Deadly Obsession in the Amazon (David Grann; 2009)

+ The LastoftheTribe:The Epic Questto Save

Algodoal lZoxxgr z pop rsoo

The small flshing village of Algodoal on Ilha de Maiandeua exchanges cars and paved roads for expansive views over firm, windswept beaches and a sometimes turbulent sea. A popular getaway for young belenenses, Algodoal is jam-packed during a few frenetic months in the summer and over certain holidays, and quiet and virtually abandoned during down periods. Ifyou catch it when it's quiet, it's one of northern Brazil's best hideaways. It's 180km northeast of Bel6m.

Osights Praia da Caixa d Agua is the long beach in front of town. Across a tidal canal is Praia do Farol, a broad attractive beach that's good (and convenient) for swimming and sunbathing. Further on, past a rocky outcrop, is Praia da Princesa with a cluster of beach restaurants followed by 7km oflovely white sand. Across an even stronger canal is Praia do Mup6ua, extending another 7km to Fortalezinha village.

f

a"uriti"s

& Tours

You can canoe (R$3) up the canal at Praia do Fa.rol to spot birds and sometimes monkeys (best at sunset), visit Iago de Princesa @est April to June), walk or boat to the village of Fortalezinha, or even walk around the island. Sunset is the best time to spot birds and wildlife, includingthe timid but radiant guari

a Lone Man

inthe Amazon (Monte Reel: 2016)

(scarlet ibis). However, high tide is when the canals are deepest and canoes czul penetrat€ the furthest. Ideally, you'll be visiting when sunset and high tide happen to coincide! At hish tide, you can canoe clear to Praia do Mup6ua on the other side of the island (and from there walk back to town, about ?km) or N else return along another canal to Porto do o Mamede, Algodoal's main dock. Partway up the canal from Praia do Farol, 5 a path cuts through the for€st and low sand = o dunes to Lago da Princesa and onward to o Praia da Princesa (2km to 3lan total). Boatmen E can drop you at the path, and you can visit the lake, then rcturn by foot along the beach (4,km). The lake is just a small lagoon, and worth visiting onlywhen full (April to June).

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Another option is visiting Fortalezinh4 a small village on the other side of the island, where you can wa.lk the beach and grab lunch at one of several small restaurants. The boat ride from Algodoal to Fortalezinha is scenic but pricey (R$1O0); alternatively, you can catch a canoe (R$4 per person) from Porto do Mamede to the nearby communiW of Cam-

boinha and follow well-marked paths from there.

From Fortalezinha it's possible to walk counter-cloc]

r= 7>,

Pousada Ponta do

Boiador

HorELi

(891 99215-9939; Bertoldo Costa zl4; d standardlste from R$150/180; E 6 ) Suites here are T newer, larger and better appointed, with

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3 g

breezy patios with hammocks. Standards are simpler and quite small, though their all-wood construction lends a clean, dry air.

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All have air-conditioning, hot showers

and sea views. Best of all, the Boiador has direct beach access and a large waterfront deck with meal service, cold beers and occasional live music. Hotel Bela

Mar

(491 3854-lU8;

l0:30pm) This place serves

a little of

everything, from fish and seafood to pasta and pizz4 all freshly made and served in a large semnd-floor dining area with a high peaked ceiling and tasteful decor. You can count on hearing some $eal jazz over your meal - it's almost all they play. Open for lunch for hotel guests only.

@ tnformation DANGERS & ANNOYANCES The island has several tidal channels, known as furos (meaning'punctures' in Portuguese) that connect inland lagoons to the ocean. They rise and fall, and even change directions, according to the tide. The one between Praia do Farol and Praia da Princesa (known as Furo Velho) is especially treacherous and should never be crossed on foot. Fishermen are usually around and can ferry you across.

INTERNET ACCESS Most hotels have wi-fi. There's alsofree community wi-fi, though finding a strong signal can be

tough. MEDICAL SERVICES Farmacias Kadosh (&7:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun) A small pharmacy selling sunscreen. bug spray, condoms, medicine and more. MONEY There is no ATM on the island or even in Marud6, and not all hotels accept credit cards. Best to bring cash from Bel6m.

lS Cettlng There & Away

PoUSADAS

www.facebook.com/pousada

belamar; Magalhies Barata; s/d with tun R$65/90, with air-con R$80/f20; ts E) A clean, reliable choice, this is the first hotel you reach from the boat drop-off. A dozen tidy rooms are arranged around a pretty central garden, all

with high ceilings and attractive decor. An ample brea.kfast spread is served in the hotel's spacious restaurant.

Restaurante La

Pousada Marhesias BRAZ|LIANSS (Bertoldo Costa 47; mains R$12-zl8: &7pm-

lzla

BRAzrLrANtt

(Bertolda Costa; mains R$15-37: 911am-11pm) This family-run choice has a few tables on a sunny patio and a few more inside the own-

ers' clapboard home. The menu is painted on the wall and consists of the Brazilian basics: a choice of fried fish, chicken or beef, pltts ice, feijdo (beans) and farofa (manioc flour saut6ed with butter).

Access to Algodoal is via the mainland village of Marudii. Boats leave for Algodoal (R$10, 40 minutes) at 9am, 1lam, 1:30pm, 3:30pm and 5pm daily, plus 8:30pm Friday. Buses from Bel6m drop off (and pick up) passengers at the port, but vans only go as far as the bus station, which is five long blocks away, or R$15 in a taxi.

Aniving at Algodoal, a slew of donkey-cart drivers will vie for the chance to take you to your hotel (per person R$l2). Some drivers will try to convince you to go to certain hotels where they earn a commission; always insist on going to the one of your choosing. Boats return to the mainland at 6am, 8am, l0:30am and l:30pm daily, plus 3pm Friday, and 3pm and 5pm Saturday and Sunday. Buses for Bel6m wait for passengers from the boat to leave, though you may need to make your way quickly to Marude's bus station to catch them.

587

Ilha de Marqi6 Eoxxsr z PoP48.ooo The sO,O00-sq-km Ilha de Maraj6, slightly larger than Switzerland, lies at the mouth of the Amazon River and is generally considered to be the largest river island in the world; writer Peter Matthiessen once described it as the Amazon's cork. (Some argue Maraj6 doesn't qualiff because part of the island faces the open ocean.) It was the ancient home ofthe Marajoaras indigenous culture, notable for their large ceramic burial urns. Maraj6 remains a world apart, where bicycles outnumber cars and water buffalo graze around town. Only the island's eastern shore is accessible to tourists, with three small towns: Joanes (the smallest), Salvaterra (lrith the best beach but not much else) and Soure (the laid-back 'capital' of Maraj6). The island's interior is wetland, home to thousands of birds, including the graceful gtard (scarlet ibis). Be aware that Maraj6 is very wet from January to June.

($ Cetting There & Away Arapari NavigaEio (p584) and Rodofluvial BANAV (p584) - standard R$25, 'VlP' service with air-con and airplane-style seating R$40, three hours - leave Bel6m's main boat terminal at 6:30am and 2:30pm Monday to Saturday and 10am on Sunday, arriving at a port south of Joanes called Foz do Rio Camar6, or Camarit for short. They return from the same port at 6:30am and 3pm Monday to Saturday, and 3pm Sunday.

O Getting

Around

Buses and minivans meet ferries arriving from Bel6m at Camar;i, Maraj6 island's main port. Each has a sign to its destination; simply look for the place you're going to and get on. lt's R$8 to Joanes, Salvaterra or the Foz do Rio Camard ferry port, and R$11 to R$18 to Soure, including the barge across the river and drop-off at your hotel. (The full-sized buses don't do hotel dropoffs, however.)

Moto-taxis are common in all three towns, and cost R$5 around town, R$5 to R$15 to outlying beaches, and R$30 between Joanes and Salvaterra. Salvaterra and Soare are separated by the wide mouth of the Rio Paracauari: boats connect the two. Boats also go from Soare to the carferry pier (8km from Salvaterra, R$1) or you can hop on the ferry itself for free.

Joanes Eoxxsr z eopgoo It may be just across the river from Bel€m, but sleepy Joanes is all about total isolation. The essence of its appeal is simple: a lovely hotel and beach, the remains of a fth-century Jesuit church and hardly a soul in sight. There are very few services herc, and no one accepts credit or debit caxds. Just the way we like it

lH

Sleeping & Eating

Pousada Vila

(A91

68)

Joanes

PousADAs

99217-2248; Segunda;

d/tr

R$14Ol170;

Overlooking the water like any selfrespecting Joanes accommodation should, the whitewashed Pousada Vila Joanes is suitably simple, lovely and quiet, and gets consistently good reviews from travelers. No credit cards. Pousada Ventania do

(891

364&2067;

Rio-Mar pousADASs a

www.pousadaventania.com:

Quarta Rua: s/d R$165/203;

6)

Atop a breezy

headland overlooking the shore. targe. simple rooms have whimsical decor and oversized paintings, bathrooms Out no TV or aircon) and open onto a large patio. The beach is just steps away, and ttre staff can a.runge a variety of excursions, including canoeing

Jacar6

iI I [

o 1

I I

SEAFooDS

r

handtul ofbeach restaurants serving the Marajoana 7 favorites of grilled fish and buffalo steals. o The atmosphere is very laid-back and you may find yourself lingering long after you finish your meal. (mains R$12-28; &7am-10pm) One of a

@ Cetting There & Away Ferries operate once or twice daily between Be16m and Cama16 (standard/VlP R$25140,

three hours): the VIP seating includes air-con and airplane-style seating.

Shuttlesto/from theferry at Camard cost R$8 (20 to 30 minutes). There are two morning shuttles from Joanes to Salvaterra and the boat pier (R$12, 7am and 9:30am) but no return service. Taxis charge R$70 forthe sametrip, while moto-taxis are R$30 (but cany only one person, of course). Biking is possible, but can be a long, hot haul.

Salvaterra Eoxxgr z popgoso Salvaterra has [lha de Maraj6's best and

longest beach, the aptly named Praia

! ! ! I

588 PREHISTORIC AMAZONIA Most researchers agree that human occupation of the Amazon Basin began around 11,000 to 14,000 years ago, based on studles of ancient cave paintings near lvlonte Alegre, in Pa16 state. Around 6000 years ago. the fapajoaa people, living near present-day Santar6m, started creating simple clay urns, the oldest known pottery in the Americas, and other indigenous Amazonians began mastering rudimentary agriculture. By the last few centuries of the pre-Christian era, the Amazon was home to numerous cohesive communities, numbering in the thousands and led by chiefs. They produced good-quality pottery and cultivated maize and manioc intensively. lt was during this time that the techniques of agriculture still used today were first developed, including selective burning, crop rotation and allowing the land periodrc'rest periods'to regenerate. The Maraloara were among the most sophasticated pre-colonial Christran-era Amazonians, flourishing between AD 400 and 1350 on the wetlands of present-day llha de Maraj6. They built massive earth platforms called aterros - the largest were 6m high and 25Om long - to escape the annual floods. They buried their dead in elaborate urns, considered to be the most sophisticated ceramics produced in pre-colonial Brazil. lnterestingly. early human occupation of the Amazon has emerged as a proxy for today's environmental debates. Conservationists have long argued that large-scale occupation and development is incompatible with a healthy rainforest. However, recent research suggesting the early Amazon may have been far more populated than previously thought has been used by some to argue that greater exploitation of the rainforest is not only harmless, but has been part of its history for millennra.

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In ID

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Grande, a short wdk outside town. The town itself is at once compact (which creates a sense that it is busier than it actually is) and ]aid-back in the finest tradition of Brazilian coastal towns.

O Praia

sigtrts

Grande

BEAcH

v Praia Grande is, as the narne

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o

suggests, a big beach: it's a long wide swathe of golden-brown sand about 500m south of Salvaterra proper. A slew of beach restaurants perched on stilts overlook the first section of the beach, but the fax end is virtually deserted, save for one large resorL Stingrays mayh present but axe easily scared off if you shuffle your feet as you enter and leave the water.

ll

Aruis

PousADAs

376S1U5; Segunda Rua; s/d R$90/110, ste

86)

RestauranteUmuarama

R$165-190; on an oceanfront lot shaded by mango trees, long wood cabins have tlvo guestrooms apiece, each with small private patio, bright interior paint, TV and aircon. I\vo standalone suites are larger with slightly nicer amenities, like glass showers and verand4 and are nearest the water. Somewhat shabby overall, but very peaceful. Praia Grande is a l0-minute walk away. The hotel's restaurant is one of Salvaterra's best.

SEAFooD,ptzzAs

(1291 98300-1330; Terceira; mains R$10-32; 911am-3pm&7-10:30pm) This low-key, openair restaurant serves shrimp, fish and buffalo dishes during the daltime and, pizza at night. Located a short walk from Praia Grande, this is a popular and less-expensive alternative to restaurants right on the beach, but you'll still catch a sea breeze. Pousada Bosque dos

Sleeping & Eating

Pousada Bosque dos

(E9l

Beira-Mar

HorELs Hotel (t291 3765-1400; Frei Romdo; r with fanlair-con R$55/80: ts6) A short walk from the center and Praia Grande; rooms here are of the Iarge and plain variety, with graying tile floors, TV and thin mattresses and linens. Wi-fi signal is spotty.

Aru5s

BRAZILTANS9

(mains R$25-$60: &noon-3pm & 6-10pm) Ttue, dishes like fish with shrimp sauce or breaded buffalo steak can be had anywhere on the

island, but the food and presentation at this pousada are surprisingly refined and well worth the somewhat higher prices. It's open to guests and nonguests alike, with service on the hotel's small wooden patio.

$

tnformation

The post office (S 8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) is along the main drag.

589

($ Cetting There & Away

f

BAilAV (891 3269-4494; O8-llam) sells ferry tickets from its office in Salvaterra, but ferries leave from Foz do Rio Camar5, south of Joanes. 0therwise, buy tickets on the shuttle or at the port. Motorized canoes connect downtown Salvaterra with Soure (R$3). Alternatively, take the ferry from the pier at the end of Salvaterra's main road (R$2, 15 minutes, 7am to 6pm);

A bicycle is a great way to get around Soure. A guy named Bimba (Rua 4 btwn Travessas 18 & 19; per hour/day R$4/25) rents bikes from his house; it's the one with a stone facade, next to a hardware shop. Near Pousada O Canto do Franc€s, a local family also has bikes for rent (Travessa 8, btwn Ruas 6 & 7; per hour/day

you can bring bicycles on board the latter.

Soure [Zoxxgr u PoP25,5oo

The 'Capital of Maraj6,' Soure is located on the far side of the Rio Paracauari. Although it's the biggest town on the island, Soure has a very laid-back vibe, with horses and water buffalo grazing on the soccer fields and dou-

ble-wide streets, many of them dirt or gmss with a bike path weaving down the middle.

@

sigtrts

The beaches near Soure, which have a mix

of

salt- and freshwater, are often covered q/ith fantastic seeds washed down from the Amazonian forests. Ifyou enter the water, shuffle your feet to scare away stintpys. Praia do Pesqueiro is Soure's most popular beach, a broad swathe of soft beige sand, backed by thatch-roofed restaurants. Pesqueiro is further from town (about 12km north) than the other beaches, but along the way you can spot buffalos wallowing in marshes and carch a glimpse of Maraj6's lush interior.

A moto-taxi runs R$15 each way, while cabs charge R$4,0 for up to four people. Praia Barra Velha and Praia de Araruna are narrow beaches edged by thick mangrove stands and separated from each other by a wide tidal channel. Barra Velha has several small restaurants, while Praia de Araruna is virtually deserted. High tide can reduce both shorelines to a thin strip of sand, but otherwise they're pleasant and easy to reach by foot, bike or taxi. To get there, follow Tlavessa 14 east of town for about 4.5km to a fork in the road; to the right is a walkway leading to Praia BarraVelha, while to the left and a short distance further is a footbridge across the channel to Praia de ArarunaPraia Garrote is a completely undeveloped beach at the mouth of the Rio Paracauari. To get there, follow Tlavessa g east out oftown; the road makes a sharp righthand turn and continues to a tida.l inlet. Fishers can ferry you across, and the beach is a short distance further.

a"tiuitt"s & Tours

R$4/28; S&m-8pm).

Three nearby fazend,as (ranches) make for interesting halfday trips. Fazenda Bom Jesus, Fazenda S5o Jer6nimo and Fazenda Araruna offer the same basic activities, including riding water buffaloes, visiting mangroves and beaches, and spouing birds, monkeys and other animals. Bom Jesus is the most adventurous of the three - the grounds look more like a nature preserve than a ranch - though at 56o Jer6nimo you can ride a buffalo in the surf. Morningboat rides up Rio Paracauari can also be arranged, including passing through a mangrove 'tunnel' and a chance to see

birds and pink dolphins. There are also T tn city tours, with visits to local artisans and

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beach-hopping tours. Prices start at R$80 to N R$120 per person. o Hotels like Pousada O Canto do Franc€s and Hotel Casarflo daAmaz6nia can provide F additional details and make reservations for all of these activities. The latter a.lso has I

-

multiday all-inclusive fazenda

packages;

r

check the website for details.

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D

Festlvals & Events

Cirio de

Nazar6

RELrGrous

(S2nd Sun in Nov) Soure has its own Cirio de Nazar6 (S 2nd Sun in Oct) with a beautiful pre cession. Hotels can be bcoked up at this time.

lH

Sleeping

Pousada O Canto do

(891

Franc6s

pousADAs

3741-1298; www.ocantodofrances.blogspot.

com.br; cnr Rua 6 & Travessa 8: s/d incl breakfust R$150/170; Nine spacious, attractive

ts6)

suites have whitewashed wa.lls, fine woodwork and comfortable beds. Lunch and dinner can be ordered, though service is slow. Meals are served in the hotel's shaded patio and are a nice way to meet fellow guests. It's far from the center, but a nearby family rents bikes.

*not"t

Casar6o da

(lZ91 3741-1988; br: cnr

Rua 4 & Travessa

EBE)

Amaz6nia

HorEL$s

www.ca:Braoamazonia.com.

Occupying

9; s/d from R$244/282:

a beautifully

restored

o

590

lt 2 a

Igth-century casarAo (mansion), rooms here have high ceilings, flat-screen TVs and small but stylish bathrooms; some units are oddly narrow, but still comfortable. A newer garden annex has slightly larger rooms, with patios and hammocks. The hotel's large pool is heaven on a hot day, and the restaurant is one of the island's best.

traditional Arud and Marajoara ceramic traditions with award-winning results. You

Pousada Restaurante llha Bela pousADAgS (ltr91 3741-1313: wwwilhabelamarajo.blogspot. com: cnrRua l&Travessa li!; s/d R$120,490; ts tr) A short distance from Soare's ferry dock, this reliable guesthouse and restaurant has spotless rooms with updated amenities and includes a wonderful breakfast. Quads have patios with views of the river. Festivals and other events are sometimes held in the plaza directly in front, and could make sleeping tough ifyou happen to visit then. The hotel's restaurant is worth checking out.

MEDICAL SERVICES

f,

Post Office (Rua 2, btwn Travessas 13 & S9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

e"ting

Pousada Restaurante llha

(E

Bela

*7am-3pm &6-11:30pm Wed-Mon) Fresh Wpical Marajoara fare, including fried fish and buffalo steak, served in a breezy corner dining area. There's live music on Friday evenings.

Hotel CasarSo da Amaz6nia

* B

BRAzTLTANS

91 3741-1313; cnr Rua 1 & Travessa 13; R$18-38;

TNTERNAToNALSS

(091

3741-1988; www.ca$raoamazonia.com.br; cnr Rua 4 & Travessa 9; R$20-55; Sllam-3pm & 7-l0pm) It's no surprise that the island's nic-

est hotel (p589) also has its most sophisticated restaurant. It's not easy to attlalct ex-

perienced staff to this culinary hinterland, but the Italian owner's efforts have paid off. The kitchen prepares everything from local specialties to intemational staples. Seating is on a covered terrace.

Caf6 de

Soare

(Rua 3, btwn Travessas 14

FRENCH9$

& 15: mains

R$15-45;

S6:30-10pm Mon-Sat) Run by an earnest French expat, this small but excellent restaurant has a handful of tables in its attractive dining area and a few more on the sidewalk. The buffalo steak with Gorgonzola sauce is a favorite, as are the mouthwatering crepes and mixed salads.

6

snopping

Cerimica

Mbara-yo

cERAMrcs

(www.facebook.com/ceramica.mbarayo; Travessa 20, btwn Ruas 3 & 4: &&m-noon & 2'6pm MonSat,8am-noon Sun) This is the modest shop

of ceramicist Carlos Amara], who combines

ofthe workshop to see how the pieces are made. Numerous small, affordable pieces are for sale, and each has a particular tale or significance behind it.

can have a short tour

@ lnformation Drogaria Big Farm (Rua 4, at Travessa 16; 07am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-noon Sun) Pharmacy and mini-mart. MONEY

Banco do Brasil (Rua 3, btwn Travessas 17 & 18; SlOam-3pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM and foreign exchange. Bradesco (Rua 2, btwn Travessas 15 & 16: 010am-3pm Mon-Fri) Central ATM. POST 14;

($ Cetting There & Away The main bus and passenger ferry stops near the corner of Travessa 1l and Rua l. Motorized canoes shuttle to downtown Salvatena (R$3) and to the passenger feny dock (R$2), leaving Soare from a long pier at Travessa 14 and Rua l. For transport between Camard and Soare, Edgar Transporte (E 91 3741-1763, 91 963407 22; [email protected]; Travessa 15 935, btwn Ruas 6 & 7; per person R$18) is a professionally run shuttle service that has modern, air-conditioned vehicles and confirmed reservations foriust slightly more than the standard service. Boat tickets, including VlP, can be purchased on the shuttle. Reserve one to three days in advance, especially in high season.

Santar6m Eoxxgs z PoP29G,3o2 Santarem is a terrific destination, a languid riverside town with a breezy waterfront promenade, parks and several good restaurants. More than that, it's a fine gateway to several quintessential Amazon experiences - getting to primary rainforest, in the Floresta Nacional (FLONA) do Tapaj6s, is much easier here than from Manaus, and Santarem has its very own'meeting of the waters,' where the Rio Tapai6s flows into the Amazon. Not far to the east, Lago Maic4 is a gorgeous floodplain rich in birds and other wildlife, including pink dolphins and sloths.

591

Santar6m

t6g

t1t0

mlles

Ero

td*

44

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Restaurante

2

(400n)

E\ 9

, ttl

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Just a short bus ride away is AJter do Chio, a cool little town with white-sand river beaches and a laid-back vibe. And this area is steeped in history from ancient petrogllphs in nearby Monte Alegre to the boom and bust of Amazonian rubber in Fordl6ndia.

by the rubber boom and bust, and a series of gold mshes that started in the 1950s. The economy today is based mainly on soy and hardwoods and, increasingly, on gold and bauxite mining, whose severe environmental impact make them controversial.

sigtrts Maic6

I

MuseudeSantar6m................,.......... D2

2 Museu Dica FrazAo............................. C2 3 PraQa Mirante do Tapaj6s................... Cl @Sleeping

6 Hotel Sandis

years; some of the oldest remains of human settlement were dismvered in Monte Alegre a short distance downstream. A Jesuit mission was established at the meeting of the Tlrpaj6s and Amazon rivers in 1661, and officially named Santar6m in 1758. The later history of Santardm was marked

Lago

-

OSights

C1

5 Hotel Palace Sanlaftm ...................... 82

The Santar6m region has been a hub of human settlement for many thousands of

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4 Hotel London Santar6m......................

History

O

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Santar6m

LAKE

The floodplains east and southeast of Santar6m are among the Amazon's most rewarding excursions. Flooded for much of

Mirante..........................

C2

gEating 7 Aqai Santa16m .................................... D2

8 9

lo U

Bar [/ascote

LaTasca

B1

................D2 Massabor.............................................. C1 Quiosque da Praea ............................. D2

OShopping 12 Loja Regional Muiraquita .................... B1

the year, the plains are home to fabulous birdlife (including toucans and macaws), pink dolphins, howler monkeys, sloths and anacondas. The sunrise and sunset views are pure magic and there's a real sense of tranquility out here. Tbke an ovemight boat trip, go canoeing through the flooded forest and relax far from the tourist hordes. Gil Serique (p598) organizes especially enjoyable excurslons here.

z. -.1

-m

592

Belterra

HrsroRrc srTE

Henry Ford briefly moved his Fordldndia (p594) operations to this tidy (Hwy 163)

little town in the l94,Os and this site,40km from Santar€m, makes for an easy day trip. There's a small museum of Ford+ra photos and artifacts, a smaJl grove of rubber trees

a Belgian queen, a tablecloth for a pop€ and costumes for the Boi-Bumbe festival.

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a"tiriti"s

& Tours

Agencies in Alter do ChSo (p598) are generally best for trips down the Rio Tapaj6s or to the Floresta Nacional do Tapaj6s. Gil Serique (p598) is particularly recommended. All can arrange to pick you up in San-

and several green-and-white buildings, built for Ford managers; behind one (the Secret6ria de EducaeSo) is a cement plat- tar€m. form with river views. There's

a water tower,

with a still-working industrial whistle that used to summon the workers. Buses ($3.5O; thr) come and go every 30 to 60 minutes, until gpm. Some guides, like

Gil Serique (p598) and Bis Tlee Adventure Tours, may include a stop here.

ZooFlT

zoo

(E

93 3523-1989; http://zoofit.lit.br; Belo Horizonte; adulVchild R$3/free; &8:30am'5pm Tue-Sun)

Enclosures are rather desultory at this rehabilitation center, but the animals are not

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intended to stay for long. Affable guides lead

Im I> T= 7>

interesting tours (one to two hours), with up-close viewing of pumas, manatees, ma-

!a

i

caws and more, and occasionally a chance to hold or feed them. It's especially fun for kids. Reachable by taxi or bus.

Praga Mirante do

Tapaj6s

vrEwporNT

There is also a handful oflocal agencies. Big Tree Adventure

(E$

Tours

Tburs combine the natural, historical and mmmercial aspects of the Amazon. The agenct's private 8OO hectare rainforest plot has good hiking and swimming; on the way there, you'll drive past vast soy plantations a macabre yet arresting sight. Multiday tours continue to Fordltndia. Big Thee is a branch of Zero Impact Brazil, an American-owned company that

gathers the leftover parts of trees cut down by developers and resells them for specialty use, from pool cues to high-end guitars. Ask about visiting ZIBt sawmill in Santardm, with its incredible array of Amazonian timber, including'tiger v/ood' and

This pleasant oval-shaped plaza and view-

'purpleheart.'

point has two open-air food stalls and good river views. An observation tower affords an even better view, including of Santar€m's own'meeting of the watersi look for a set of stairs just east of Brisa Hotel.

Santar6m Vlagens e Turismo

Museu de

Santar6m

MUsEUM

(Centro Cultural Joio Fona; Rua do lmperador, Praga

BarSo de Santar6m; by donation; *8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Housed in a large yellow

waterfront mansion, this museum is also known as the Centro Cultural Joflo Fona after the Par6 artist who painted the frescoes on its interior walls. It features, among other things, an excellent collection of stone and clay artifacts from the Thpajoara culture that flourished in this area more than 6000 years ago.

FrazSo

(Floriano Peixoto 281; by donation;

Mon-Sat)

(893 3523-2037;

and Floresta Nacional do TapajG (p596). Pierre Schwartz is a promising young guide spea.ks English.

who

{d

restvats & Events Sio Pedro

Dia de

9&m-6pm

Dona Dica Frazao spent three-

quarters of a century making clothing and fabrics from natural fibers, including grasses and wood pulp. She died aged 96 in 2017, but the museum continues with a display room of her creations, including a dress made for

REUGrous

(SJun 29; Boats decorated with flags and flowers sail in procession before the city in honor of S5o Pedro, the patron saint of fisherfolk.

lh

Sheping

(893

MUSEUM

ADVENTURE

www.santaremviagenseturismo.

weebly.com; Traversa Silvino Pinto 860) All the usual tours including to tago Maicrn (p591)

Hotel Sandis

Museu Dica

EcoTouR

9f9$3160; www.bigtreeadventuretours.com; Av Maracana 664; US$ll0-390 per person per day)

Mirante

HoTELS

99239-2488; www.hotelsandismirante. com.br; Coronel Joaquim Braga 180; s/d/tr R$130/1,t5l180) This attrartive place up on the hill just back from the waterfront has clean, modern rooms, some with riverviews, although whytheybuilt such small windows we ll never understand. It's an otherwise excellent choice.

s93 Hotel Palace Santar6m HoTEL$ (E 93 3523-2052; wwwhotelpalacesantarem.com. br; Av Rui Barbosa 726; s,/d from R$120/150) A recent change of owner here has brought more professionalism and style to this place rooms are comfortable and among the best in town, but with budget prices. It's right in the heart oftown too.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

STREET FOOD: TACACA Mention tacacb to any person from the Brazilian Amazon, and you may see them drool. Originally a dish from indigenous communities, it's a glutinous broth made from wild manioc, small yellow peppers, dried shrimp and/ambu (a local flowering herb). lt's a particular favorite in Santar6m: drink it steaming hot from a bowl between the hours of 4pm and 7pm as a precursor to the main meal. Ourf avoritetacacb is served at Quiosque da PraQa - eat it here and you're halfway to being a local - and they also serve it at Massabor.

Hotel London Santar6m HoTELSS (E 93 3523-2328: www.hotellondonsantarem.com. br: Senador Lameira Bittencourt4l; s/d R$160/188:

ts E ) The rooms here are a little small and don't take advantage of the location - it's just across the road from the waterfront in the heart oftown - but they're comfortable, especially ifyou've been out in the forest for a while. The highlight is the rooftop bar-restaurant with fine river views. Decent break-

fast too.

Tapaj6s Center Hotel HorEL$s (A$ 3522-5353; Av Tapajds 1827; s/d/lr R$120/170/200,superiors/d/trR$170/22/250; E E E ) Spacious rooms have warm accents, firm beds, modern TVs and air-conditioning, spotless bathrooms and @est of all) large verandas with bracing views of the river. The hotel's main drawback is that it's a mile (l.skm) from the center of town; the wat€rfront can be a pleasant (albeit hot) walk and taxis are plentiful when you feel like a ride.

)(

erting

*Qriorqr"

da

Praga

sTREETFooD$

(Praqa Barao de Santar6m; from R$8; &7am-lpm

with agai, a berry indigenous to the Amazon and rich in antioxidants, is old news here they serve up great bowls of the stuff. We like it plain, as is the tradition, but you can also add everything from fish powder and shrimp to bananas ard condensed milk. Opening hours sometimes vary as supplies sometimes run low.

fRestaurantePiracema

BRAztLtAN$s

(A%

3522'7461; www.restaurantepiracema.com. Furtado 73; R$25-80; Sllam1l:30pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun) Considered by

br; Av Mendonp

else. The specialty is rhe pei.xe

d.

Piracema,

just west of the a spherical construction of layered smoked center serves the best tacacd (lot,Jl solp pirarucil (a freshwater fish), banana and with shrimp) we've tasted in Brazil. A cheese. It's strange but delicious, and large

*Massabor

(D93 3522-0509; Av Tapaj6s;

will

przzA?

pizza R$33-43,

a raised pier over the water, this open-air restaurant opposite Pra4a do Pescador has nice breezes and gorgeous river views; watch for dolphins. The menu is mostly pizza, but there is a page dedicated to local dishes, including tacacd. T\e food is fine if unremarkable it's all about atmosphere as the sun goes mains R$15-50; &5-11pm) Occupying

down.

Santar6m BRAztLtAN $ (493 3522-1464; www.tucebook.com/acaistm;

Aqai

Travessa Pedro Texeira 41; 250l500m1 bowl from R$8/16; & 7am-7pm) Brazil's growing obsession

N

o

n z. --{

many to be the best restaurant in town, rr Piracema uses regional ingredients and = flavors to create dishes you'll find nowhere

& 4-llpm) This small kiosk

late-afternoon bowl of this local favorite set you up nicely for the night ahead.

II

enough for two. La

Tasca

(493 98405-8532:

BRAztLtANtg

Rua do lmperador; snacks

from R$8.50, mains R$23-80; &7pm-midnight) La Thsca is a lively place in the evening, and we love the mix of tapas-style plates.

Signature dishes include bacalhau es-

piritual (a creamy,

Portuguese-style cod dish) or the bite-sized camardo do imperador (a battered prawn served with cheddar or Gorgonzola).

Mascote

Bar (E 93 99216-8546;

BUFFET,SEAFooD$$

wwwfacebook.com/restaurante mascote; Praga do Pescador; buffet per kilo R$46, plate of the day R$32, mains R$30-70; S6-11pm Tue-Fri, from llam Sat,S-llpm Sun) The Iunch buffet is tasty, the prato feito (plate of the

594 FORDLANDIA

I{ I:E Im I> I7>

T U)

i

History buffs will enjoy a trip to Fordl6ndia, where you can explore the remains of Henry Ford's ill-fated Amazonian enterprise. You can wander cavernous factories. climb the town's iconic 36-meter-high water tower and more. That said, it's a long way to go (and come back) for just a half-day of sights - travelers short on time or lacking a burning interest in early-20th-century industrial history may consider giving it a pass. Rubber was (and is) absolutely essential to the manufacture of automobiles. ln the early 1900s, Britain had a near monopoly on the world's rubber supply, having smuggled rubber tree seeds out of the Amazon and grown them, with great success, in plantations in Asia. Fordl3ndia, founded in 1928, was Henry Ford's attempt to establish his own source of rubber. But in typical Ford fashion, the proiect was as much sociological as it was economic or horticultural. Ford forbade workers from drinking, smoking or visiting prostitutes (rules they circumvented by paddling out to barges moored offshore). He insisted American-style homes and dormitories be built, but their thick walls and asbestos roofs turned them into ovens. Worst of all, virtually no one sent from company headquarters in Dearborn, Michigan, had experience with the Amazon or its trees. Tens of thousands of rubber trees were planted only to die from blight because they'd been planted too close together. (ln the wild, rubber trees always grow widely spaced apart.) Operations were moved briefly to Beltena (p592) (which can be visited as a day trip from Santar6m) but in 1945, with synthetic rubber rapidly supplanting the natural product. the company sold Fordlandia back to Brazil for a loss, in today's dollars, of over $2O0 million. Ford himself never visited. Fordl6ndia today is a rather downbeat town. and surprisingly little has been done to preserve or promote the town's unique history. Two of the main sights are visible right from the pier: the caria de 5gua (water tower) which you can climb via a narrow ladder, and two huge factories, known locally as casonas (big houses) filled with abandoned machinery, vehicles and random parts. many stamped Michigan. Further af ield are Fordlandia's cemetery, the collapsed remains of the town's once-grand hospital, and Vila Americana, a row of American-style houses, some of which can be visited. The boat schedules are such that you'll need to stay at least a night. Pousada Americana (893 3505-3073; www.pousada-americana.blogspot.com; Av Boa Vista 31; s/d R$120l140; El6) has spacious rooms, sparkling bathrooms, and air-con an most units. A newer annex has a large patio with hammocks, and the property's fruit trees are home to numerous birds, including several talkative parrots. From the ferry' bear left 500m. The owners also happen to be Fordlandia's go-to tour guides, A four-hour tour, including vehicle, is R$60 to R$100 per group. From Santarem. there are daily departures for Fordlandia by speedboat (R$70, five hours, lpm) and slow boat (R$55; 12 to 15 hours,4pm Monday to Saturday,2pm Sunday; take the ltaituba boat). Returning, the speedboat passes by at 2pm to 3pm, and the slow boat around 8pm to 10pm (earlier on Sundays): check schedules before setting out from Santar6m. You'll enjoy good views of the verdant forest, especially going upriver, when the boat hugs the shore.

day) is especially good value and the airconditioned dining room is a welcome respite on a hot day. The outdoor patio is good for drinks and a light appetizer.

fl

shopping

Loja Regional

Muiraquita

@ Information EMERGENCY

clFTs&souvENlRS

(893 9880L6748; Senador Lameira l3l; &9am-7pm

here, but you might uncover the occasional nice item.

Bittencourt

Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat) Santar6m

has a large collection of souvenirs. There's

a lot of tat and not much that's original

Ambulance (8192) Pollce

(8190; Praga Ba16o

de Santarem)

INTERNET ACCESS Gyber Gafe (Av Tapai6s; per hr R$5; O 8am7pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)

595 LAUNDRY Lavanderla Estoril (E 93 3523-1329; Travessa Turiano Meira 167; wash & dry per kg R$25, plus iron per kg $30; S8am-6pm Mon-Sat) Sameday service if you drop off clothes in the morning. MEDICAL SERVICES

Hospital Municipa! (cnr Avs Presidente Vargas & BarSo do Rio Branco; &24hr) Large public hospital. MONEY Bradesco (Av Rui Barbosa; S9am-3pm MonFri) Foreign exchange.

Santander (Av Rui Barbosa) Most reliable ATMS in town.

POST Maan Post Office (Siqueira Campos; &9am5pm Mon-Fri)

TOURIST INFORMATION IBAMA (CMBio) (D93 3523-2964; www. icmbio.gov.br; Au I apajbs 2?67,Santar6m; S 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) Local office of IBAMA, including the division that oversees FL0NA Tapal6s. Located 2km west of the center. TRAVEL AGENCIES Santar6m Tur (p 93 3522- 4847 ; www.santar emtur,com.br; Adriano Pimentel 44; &8am6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Arranges plane tickets, tour packages (including city tours), day trips to Alter do Chio by boat or car, and overnight riverboat tours to FLONA.

(S Cetting There & Away AIR

Aeroporto de Santar6m - Maestro Wilson Fonseca is l4km west of town. lt handles flights to,4rom Manaus and Bel6m. To go just about anywhere else you'll need to change in one of these cities. Azul (E 93 3523-3287; www.voeazul.com.br) GOt (D93 3522-3386, 0800-704-0465; www. voegol.com.br) MAP (893 3529-0308, in Manaus g2 2125-

5000; www.voemap.com.br) TATAM (lZ 93 3523-9744: www.latam.com) Serves Brasllia. BOAT

There are two official ports for passenger boats, though an explosion of river traffic means virtually the entire waterfront can be crowded with vessels. Look for large signs or banners indicating each boat's destination and departure times. Be aware that times listed here are subject to change. For Fordl6ndia and Monte Alegre, considertak-

inga lancha rdpida (speedboat) ofiering comfort-

able airplane-style seating and half the travel time forjust a few dollars more. Various independently owned boats use three nearly side-by-side piers just east of Praga Tiradentes: signs indicate which boat leaves on a given day. Altogether, there are daily departures for Ford16ndia (R$65, five hours, lpm) and Monte Alegre (R$60, three hours, 4pm; plus 9am Tuesday and Saturday).

Docas do Par6 The main port, Docas do Parf, is located 2.5km west of the center. There you can catch a slow boat to Bel6m (hammock R$200, double cabin R$600 to R$800, 48 hours) at 10am Friday and every second Sunday, and 1lam Monday, which stops at Monte Alegre (hammock R$50, five to seven hours) along the way; to l\4anaus (hammock R$180, double cabin R$600, 40 to 48 hours) at noon Monday to Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, and at llam on Thursday, all with a

stop at Parantins (hammock R$80, 20 hours);

or to Fordlindia (R$50; 12 to 15 hours) at 4pm Monday to Saturday and 2pm Sunday - take the Itaituba boat. Meals are not included, but can be purchased on board. Buy your ticket in advance, especially in high season, to be sure you get a spot. Note you can only board during designated time slots: 6am to 7am, 10am to 10:30am, noon to 12:l5pm, and lpm to 2pm.

Praga Tiradentes The port Praga Tiradentes is located lkm west of the center on Av Tapaj6s and is used for boats to less-common destinations, including Macapd (hammock R$150 including meals,36 hours,

6pm daily), Monte Alegre (hammock R$45, five to seven hours; take the 6pm Macapd boat) and Alenquer (hammock R$35, seven hours,8pm Sun-Fri, noon Sat). BUS The bus

station

(12 93

II N

o

3523-4940; Hwy BR-163)

is 2.5km west of town. Catch a bus here to Bel-

terra ($3.50: one hour); they come and go every 30 to 60 minutes until9pm. There are almost no long-distance bus services tolfrom Santa16m - the roads are appalling. Buses to Alter do Ch6o (R$3.50, 60 minutes) stop on Av Rui Barbosa near Av Bario do Rio Branco roughly every hour between 5am and 10pm (until 6:30pm on Sundays). Buses to Maguari and Jamaraqud (R$12, two to three hours, 1lam Monday to Saturday, 6:30am Sunday) depart from Av 560 Sebastieo (Av Sio Sebastilo) in Santa16m. Return buses depart Jamaraqu6 at 4:30am and 6am Monday to Saturday,4:30pm Sunday). The Sunday bus is air-conditioned.

(O Cetting Around Apart from walking, moto-taxis are the best way to get around town. Most trips cost R$5.

i --{

=.

596 Ao-5oh .-r;^-r'.-'.-

AroundSantar6m

/ '

o6bidos

Ciudade dos Deuses Oakd; Vale do Paraiso 1nkm)

oAhnquer Monte Alegre O Ilha do Arapari

,uruti

ltgu

Ilha do Patach0

( iJru,lLO

Arunami

o

lngo,

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Urucure6

Grcude

l'.t, t al

AirDoft

t';'l;Jr,.

ll"' ,,",,,, oTaperinha

Osantar6m ,-, verde OPindobal

Rio Ara(i

Belterra

OMujuidos Campos

Sao

*mingos WMBio)

/

\

@Curud-Una Hydroelectric

furcuebKreD

Station

ql,tur

Rio

ol,,i

ll

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ii a

N

o

z

--o ,r

Pari

oAveiro

-{ 2

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lmazdnia

Fordlandiao

I

Altilnia

*

Q6dkm)

@

()

z.

-l T

\

do Tapajds

o

-o o

Floresta Nacional

(FLONA)

(n

I

ItaitubaO

Miritituba

Hunaiti (1150km)

z

T

@

o Rur6polis

Tran*rnazonica

CuiabA (1490kn)

o a

FlorestaNacional do

Tapqi6s

One ofthe last and most accessible stretches

of primary rainforest in the region, this protected area (FLONAdoTapaids) is the Amazon rainforest you always imagined. Behemoth samatma and other trees, some with trunks too big for even 2O people to stretch their arms around, are a highlight of this 5t1,40-sqkm reserve on the east side of the Rio Tbpaj6s. Visit with a guide and it's likely to be one of your most memorable experiences. Wildlife includes numerous species ofbirds (king

vulturrs are a highlight), while the forest is also home to elusive cats (including jaguar and ocelot, although they're rarely seen),

as

well as howler monkeys, squirrel monkeys and capuchins.

O

sigtrts

The riverside villages of Maguari and Jamaraqu6 have been hosting travelers the longest and have the most established accommodations, tours and other services. A third village, S5o Domingo, is at the entrance to the reserve and has modest tourist options as well.

597 The only problem with making these villages a focal point of your visit is that the primary rainforest, and hence the really big trees, are a two-and-a-half-hour hike away.

@

Tours

All three villages have well-maintained forest trails. There are some lovely tgarap4s (inlets), too, with good canoeing and possibly animal-spotting when the water is high. Tour prices include: a four- to fivehour hike and a one- to two-hour canoe trip costs R$100 to R$150 per group (up to six people). Overnight trips (per person RgI5O to R$200) and private boat service to and from Alter do Ch6o (per person Rg25O) can be arranged.

You can get also get to FI,ONA by boat, Ieaving from Alter do Chflo. Freelance boatmen do day trips for around Rgl00 per person, but it's a tiring three hours each way in a small motorized canoe, and does not include guide service. The tour agencies charge R$200 to R$25O per person, including a local guide and using faster and more comfortable motorboats. The agencies also do overnight trips to FLONA! sleeping on board a river boat. Tby MEe Natureza (p599) and Areia Branca Ecotour (p599) in Alter do Ch6o.

To experience the primary rainforest,

when the water's low, and you can swim from the deck when it's high. On the downside, the bathrooms are located at the back at the main house, about l00m away. The bus stops in front. Pousada Floresta do

Tapa!6s

pousADAs

(E

93 99113-8458; www.pousadaflorestadotapajos. wordpress.com; Transtapaj6s S/N; per person

R$50) Better known as'Pousada de Bata'

for

its austere but highly knowledgeable owner and main tour guide, this guesthouse has an airy hammock are4 decent bathrooms and a welcoming family atmosphere. It's located in a quiet leafy plot about 50Om past the main village center; if arriving by bus, ask the driver to drop you here. Pousada S5o

(493

Domingo

pousADAs

99212-0072; Transtapai6s s/n; R$50 per person incl breakfast) kss a guesthouse than just a guy who lets people crash at his place,

there's an open-air hammock area and

outdoor showers set in a large shady plot. Guests can use the owner's bathroom. The E owner used to work for tour operators in Alter do Ch5o, and guides hiking and boat = N tours right from his property.

o

Pousada

Maguary

pousADAg

(U

93 99115-9540; Transtapaj6s s/n; incl breakfast R$50, additional R$20 for lunch ordinner) You feel

-a -o n

as opposed to the river villages, we recommend the tours by Gil Serique (p598), whose family once lived in the forest. Tours (from US$ISO per person per day) can be day tours or overnight versions where you sleep in a camp deep in the forest. Ask Gil to also take you up into the canopy via the 45m-high tower built by NASA.

r like part of the family here, and no wonder: tn the warm, elderly owners were among the I first in FLONA to open their home to mm- z munity tourism. Unfortunately, the dim, C) low-ceiling hammock area and rundown o toilets make this a less appealing option for z. many visitors.

ll

@ lnformation

Steeping & Eatins

Lodging is available in simple pousadas run by local families, who also arrange tours. The bus driver can drop you right in front

of each of these places. Gil Serique (p598) can arrange an ovemight stay deep in the primary rainforest. Tours here should include meals (a.lways ask what is included before handing over any money), while the village pousadas can also cook up simple meals for guests. pousADA$ Pousada Jamaraqu5 (1293 99124-5750, 93 99179-9569; Transtapaj6s s/n; d incl meals R$125) Accommodations are in a large riverside structure, with a breezy

deck for hammocks and a couple of very basic rooms. There's a pleasant sandy beach

I

o I

lGMBio (tr1 93 3522-0564: www.icmbio.gov.

.U

brlflonatapajos; Av fapails 2267, Santa16m)

o (n

The federal environmental agency oversees the reserve and has a handful of outposts at various points around the park, including in S5o Domingo and this one at the entrance (Km 67), as well as an office in Santar6m. Boats and

buses entering the reserve stop to allow tourists to register, but there is no entrance fee.

Q Cetting

There & Away

BOAT

It's best to visit on a guided tour run by a reputable travel agency in Alter do Chao, but it is possible to arrange a private boat transfer from the docks in the town for around R$100 per person return.

598 Praia do

Buses to Maguari and Jamaraque (R$12, two to three hours, llam Monday to Saturday, 6:30am Sunday) depart from downtown Santar6m. Return buses depart Jamaraque at 4:30am and 6am Monday to Saturday, 4:30pm Sunday. The Sunday bus is air-conditioned.

A few blocks west of the town cent€r along the waterfront promenade is this pleasant

CAR & MOTORCYCLE The most accessible access point to the primary rainforest is at Km 67 along Rte 163 south of Santar6m, although we strongly advise against visiting this section on your own. Take a guided

tour with Gil Serique.

Nter 0oxxg:

I I{ I-

Im I>

a= ->

o

z r

do Ch6o z popzsoo

Atter do Chao, 33km west of Santarem, is an appealing, languid riverside town that's poP ular with visitors from Santaxem on weekends and during holiday p€riods. It's best known for its Ilha do Amor (Island of Iove), a picturesque island ringed by a white-sand beach directly in front oftown. But Alt€r do ChSo is much more than a beach town. The lagoon it fronts (Lago Verde) can be explored by canoe or stand-up paddle board. It's also the departure point for boat tours to nearby forest reserves and

-{ isolated communities, and has one of the m n best indigenous art stores in the Amazon

o o

region.

@ sigt ts o In addition to Ilha C) f

>'

Cajueiro

BUS

do Amor and Praia do Cajueiro, there are several beaches further afield best reached in a car or on a beach-hopping tour, including Pindobal (8km), Cajutuba (l6km), Aramanai

(26km) and Ponta de Pedras (28km). These beaches are quite built up with waterfront restaurants; if you're looking for an isolated beach experience, talk to a tour agency.

Amor

BEACH llha do A small slice of paradise just ofrshore from Alter do ChAo, the'Island of Love' is especially striking when the water is low (August to December) and beach restaurants and cool, calm water make it a gtreat place to chill out. In high water, the island is much smaller but still worth a visit. When the water is low, you can wade from the waterfront to Ilha do Amor. Otherwise, rowboats will take you ircross for R$5 per

person.

BEAcH

beach, wrapping around to the Tbpajos River.

Lago

Verde

LAKE

This huge three-fingered lake is surrounded by forest and has places to swim, snorkel with flsh and spot wildlife (including a resident family of monkeys). Tour agencies do good boat tours (per person R$5o to R$75, two to three hours, two to six people) or you ca.n hire one of the yellow-shirted freelance boatmen on the waterfront; the latter are cheaper, but may not have the same service or equipment that agencies do. Ponta do

Curur0

NATURALFEATURE

Most afternoons, large numbers of pink and grey dolphins congregate just offshore

from this sandy point near the mouth of the Rio Tbpaj6s for an evening snack. It's a great place to go for sunsets and dolphinspotting, and many guides combine tours of Lago Verde or Canal do Jari with a stop here.

f, l"tiuiti"t

Adventure sports are a natural fit for many visitors here. Rewarding options include stand-up paddling (SUP), windsurfing, kavaking, mountain biking and tree climbing (arbolismo in Portuguese). Ask at MEe Naturez4 Areia Branca Ecotour or Gil Serique for prices and availability.

@

Tours

Besides short trips around Alter do Chdo (Lago Verde, Ponta do Cururu, beach-hop

ping) there are some great options for longer multiday tours. These include canoeing the animal-rich Canal do Jari, hikjng and visiting villages in Floresta Nacional (FLONA) do Tapaj6s (p596) and the Reserva Extrativista (RESDQ Tbpaj6s-Arapiuns (p623), river trips up the Rio Arapiuns, and adventure rout€s into the Parque Nacional da Amaz6nia. Discuss details with tour agencies in towu prices range from R$I80 to $300 per person per day, all-inclusive.

*Gil serique

(893

EcoTouR

99130-5298; www.gilserique.com: Av Co-

pacabana zt5, at PA-457; per person per day US$150)

Gil is a true character, a lithe teller of tales and one of the area's top naturalists. Born and raised nearby, Gil's tours are part histc ry part ecolory and part family lore, related

s99

with infectious enthusiasm and near-per-

Pousada do Tapaj6s

fect English. Visits to Lago Maic6 (p59r), a gorgeous floodplain teeming with birds and other wildlife, are especially memorable. Pricier than others, but worth it From the bus drop-off, walk down to the

(1J93 99210-2166;

plaza and bear right along the waterfront. It's the house at the end, painted with travel-related logos. Gil can often offer discount lodgrng, airport pickup and other help; enquire in advance. Areia Branca Ecotour EcorouR (E 93 3527-1386, 9399121-5646; www.areiabranca ecotour.com.br: Lago Verde; $8am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, to lpm Sat & Sun) Located on the waterfront a short distance from the plaza, this small agency is run by multilingual siblings. Tours are available to all the standard destinations, but the specialty

here is multiday packa6es to less-visited communities like Santi in RESEX Tapaj6sArapiuns and Marituba and Breganqa in FLONA Tapaj6s. MEe

(A$

Natureza

EcoTouR

3527-1264, 93 99131-9870; www.maenature

zaecoturismo.com.br; Praga 7 de Setembro; * 8:30am-1pm & 4-11pm) Agency run by genial Argentinean expats. Be sure to ask about

weekJong adventure tours to remote indigenous areas and the Brinco das Mogas waterfall, deep in RESD( Tapaj6s-Arapiuns, although confirm first they have guides that speak your language. Day trips including

tree-climbing, kite-surfing and stand-up paddling can also be arranged.

{d

festlvals & Events Cair6

Festa do

(&

RELtctous

The Festa do Qair6 is the major folkloric event in western ParS- The Qair6 2nd week Sep)

is a standard held a]oft to lead a flower-

bedecked procession; its origins may go back to symbols used by early missionaries to help convert indigenous groups.

ll f

Sleeping Pousada Vila

(A%

Alter

pousADAs

603; s/d/tr R$80/120l140; BE) The pick of the many new pousadas opening around town, the welcoming Vila Alter has a colorfirl little garden and tidy rooms. The whole feel here is one of intimacy and warmth, and the price is terrific value. It's far enough up the hill to avoid the evening noise, but it's just five minutes away on foot. 99173-9772; Everaldo Martins

Hostel

HoSTELS

www.pousadatapajos.com.br; Lauro Sodr6 100; dm R$50, d/trlq R$$0/190/200;

BE)

Dorms here are clean and comforta-

ble, though a bit cramped, \Mith sturdy

bunks and large lockers. Private rooms are sparkling, modern and well removed from the dorm area- There's an ample breaKast, open kitchen and large baclryard with hammocks.

Itt

Hotel Belo

(893

five blocks west of the center.

Alter

HoTELS9

3527-1230; www.beloalter.com.br; Pedro

Teixeira

500; s/d/tr R$220/330/450;

EtrE)

This aging hotel has a lea$r setting and rooms with a hint (just a hint, mind you) of stjle, featuring wood rather than tiled floors. It's secluded and quiet, but a long walk into town. You wouldn't want to do it after dark. Hotel

Borari

(D93

3527-1752: Dom Marcedo Costa; s/d/trlste

HorELSg

BEE)

R$180/22O/280/400; One of the few places with running hot water, the Borari is

arguably the best hotel in town, although it lacks the warmth of some of the pousadas. Rooms are smallish but tidy, ard the suite

II

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has abalmny.

o

Pousada Vila Da Praia HoTELS$ (O)93 9197-7214, 93 3529-1909; www.viladapraia pouvda.blogspot.com; PA-452 s,zd R$160/190; m = a BEB) Amiable service, simple but com- a fortable rooms, and a great location make o this a recommendable option. Rooms vary c) a considerably: some have mlorfirl cement o walls, others wood paneling; some are oddly small, others sleep up to six. All come with TVs, air-conditioning, floral prints and a substantial breakfast, served in an open-air dining area. Just a block from the waterfront.

X

e"ung *slri,

(893

vEGETARTANs

99217-2034' Travessa Agostinho Lobato s/n;

mains R$20-30; Snoon-4pm; E) The lovely chef-owner, Betania prepares just one dish per day, announced on a sandwich boaxd out front. From chickpea omelets to vege-

table tarts, count on it being outstanding, served with brown rice, fresh salad and creative drinks, like hibiscus andmaracujd (passion fi:uit) iced tea plus dessert. Dishes are vegan or vegetarian, depending on the sauce. Attractive outdoor dining area. Barraca de

Tapioca

(Lauro Sodr6; mains R$6-12;

BRAzILtANg

*2-8pm) Perched on a rise overlooking the water, this cara-

600 van-and-plastic*hair place serves tapioca pancakes with a mix of sweet and salry fillings. It's that simple, and that good.

f erpago (D93 98401

Gastron6mico

BRAztLtAN8$

roSodr674; mainsR$25-60; S7-11pm;

tr) I

might include Brazil nuts, honey and man-

ioc, or ceviche with mango. Upstairs is the place to be, with diaphanous curtains

blowing in the sea breeze. Joana is a marvelous host.

Arco-lris da Amaz6nia 3527-U82:

BRAztLtANS$

arcoirisdaamazonia@bol'com'

7 de Setembro; mains R$25-55: &61lpm Wed-Mon) Art and jewelry store by day, fine restaurant by night. One of three side-

br;

l=o 2

PraEa

by-side places serving dinner and drinks right on the plaza, the Arcolris' dishes are expertly prepared with fresh sophisticated flavors, ftom lamb to crepes to hamburgers. Portions are on the small side, but there's definitely a quality over quantity argument to be made here. Prompt service.

Tribal 5 r

BRAztLlAN3s

D (Travessa Ant6nio Lobato; dishes R$30-60; I

o C)

-

>I

o

&11am-4pm & 7-1lpm) Churrasco plales come with a spear of steak, sausage, chick-

en and tongue, while well-prepared fish dishes serve two easily, with potato salad to spare. This spacious two-floor open-air dining area is located a block and a half up ftom the plaza.

fr

Entertainment * gspago Gastron6mico

(D93 98401 6lt4:

LtvE MUSIc

www.espacoalter.com.br;

Lau-

ra Sodr6 74; cover from R$20: &10pm-4am Sat Jul-Feb; 6) There's always something worth seeing at this cool music-restaurant space at the east end of the waterfront promenade. There's live carimbb Saturday niShts in season, and guest bands play rock"forr6, samb4 reggae and more; check Facebook or the chalkboard out front for the latest. Great

restaurant too.

a^lJ snopplng

*Araribi

range from inexpensive necklaces to museum-qualiW masks and ceremonia.l costumes. Shipping available; credit cards accepted.

6144; www.espacoalter.com'br; Lau-

What a fabulous place! It's made almost entirely from recycled wood and other materials, with a commitment to using local ingredients and indigenous sauces, which

(A$

store in the region, representing communities throughout the Amazon Basin. Items

Cultura

lndigena

ARTS&cRAFIs

(@93

3527-132at www.araribah.com.br; Travessa Ant6nio Lobato; &9am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 7:30pm

Sun) Arsuably the best indigenous art

@ lnformation DANGERS & ANNOYANCES a concern around llha do Amor, Lago Verde and the Tapaj6s River. especially in the afternoon and evening. Fortunately they're very skittish, so it's Senerally sale to swim and wade where other people are doing the same. lt's also a good idea to shuffle your feet whenever entering and exiting the water (here or anywhere in the Amazon); this kicks up a cloud of sand in front of you and scares rays away.

Stingrays are

MEDICAL SERVICES

Farmacia Primavera (lJ 93 3527-1105: PA-457;

& 9am-8pm) A pharmacy is from the waterfront.

a

few blocks up

MONEY Accessing money and the internet can be a real headache in Alter do Chio. There was only one ATM in Alter do Ch6o at the time of writing, and it was pretty unreliable - better to bring cash from Santar6m. Most hotels accept credit cards, but not all. Banco do Brasil (inside Mini-Center Mingote, Praga 7 de Setembro; O 6:30am-8:30pm MonSat, to 7:30pm Sun) The ATM here sometimes works, but don't count on it. POST OFFICE Post office (cnr PA-457 & Rua Professor Juvencio Navarro; S9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) A few blocks up from the waterfront.

($ Cetting There & Away Buses from Alter do ChZo to Santa16m (R$3.50' one hour) depart hourly from the bus station (Everaldo Martins) 5:30am to llpm, except on Sunday, when services end around 6pm. Catch the bus a block up from Praga 7 de Setembro, at the corner of Rua Dom Macedo Costa and Travessa Ant6nio A Lobato (cnr Rua Dom Macedo Costa & Travessa Ant6nio A Lobato). lf arriving in Santar6m on the bus, there's a handy stop along Rua Dom Macedo Gosta (Rua Dom Macedo Costa), which means a shorter walk down into town. There is no bus to the Santa16m airport from Alter do Ch6o, unfortunately. lt's possible to take the bus as far as the airport turnoff, and wait for the airport bus from Santar6m to pass, usually within 30 to 60 minutes. Otherwise, a taxito the airport (or to Santa16m or the riverboat ports) costs a painful R$100.

t@

601

MONTE ALEGRE The hills close to the dusty provincial town of Monte Alegre shelter one of the Amazon's most important archaeological sites - the rock paintings here, which may date back more than 13,000 years, have changed the way that historians understand the human history of the region. You'll need at least a two-day round-trip from Santar6m, which is 12okm upstream, to make the trap here worthwhile. The town itself is a fairly unappealing place, and it sees very few tounsts.

Sights The hot sandstone hills behind Monte Alegre are dotted with caves and bizarre rock outcroppings. They, in turn, are adorned with dozens of rock paintings from ancient Amazonians. The paintings are red, yellow and brown, and depict human and animal figures, handprints and geometric designs. Studies conducted in the 1990s by pioneering archaeologist Anna Roosevelt. a great-granddaughter of Theodore Roosevelt, suggest the caves at Monte Alegre were occupied from anywhere between 10,900 to l3,l5o years ago - thousands of years earlier than previously thought. (Artifacts in chile and central Brazil have returned similar dates.) This caused quite a ruckus and forced archaeologists to rethink when and how ancient people first arrived in south America. Most still believe the first migrants arrived from Asia across the Bering Strait to Alaska, but rather than spreading gradually southward from there. it appears at least some paleoindian groups made their way to Central and South America fairly quickly, probably using boats and hugging the coastline, reaching as far south as patagonia. From those southbound groups, splinter parties must have cut eastward and inland (or even turned the corner at Tierra del Fuego), eventually populating the Amazon and the rest of the interior. Monte Alegre's cave paintings are quite accessible from Santa16m. The best-known site is serra do Paituna, with a distinctive ridge-top rock formation called pedra do pilao and the stunning Pedra Pintada cavern, where Roosevelt's primary excavations took place. Two other sites, Serra do Erer6 and Serra de ltauajuri, are harder to reach (especially in rainy season) but have excellent paintings as well. AII three require a vehicle and guide (the area has been designated as a state park), and include moderately strenuous hiking. Bring sturdy shoes and plenty of water.

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Tours Nelsi Sadeck (A%98421-2928;

[email protected])

is an amiable former teacher Alegre's go-to guide. He speaks por-

who assisted Roosevelt's excavations and is [/onte tuguese only, so English-speaking visitors to l\ilonte Alegre will want to contact llivaldo Luz ([email protected]). Reach out to the guides a few days in advance of your visit. Tours are R$150 to R$2O0 per day (up to four people); the use of a truck runs an additional R$300 per day.

Sleeping & Eating Hotel Shekinah (493

E

3533-1489; www,hotelshekinah.com;

7

de Setembro 74: s/d

R$80/120: BEB) Rooms here are bright, clean and reasonably spacious, with colorfully painted walls. There's even a swimming pool, though it's in need of some shade and a good scrubbing. The hotel is just two blocks from the central plaza, with various restaurant options nearby.

Getting There & Away The easiest way to visit Monte Alegre is to organize a tour with one of the tour operators in Santar6m or Alter do Chio; Gil Serique (p598) is an excellent choice. Your best bet for traveling by boat to Monte Alegre is to ask around the port in Santar6m a few days before you wish to travel. From Monday to Friday, there's a speedboat that departs Santar6m at 4pm to Santana do Tapara (R$22 1y4 hours); a public bus to Monte Alegre (R$10) usual/y meets the arriving boat. There's also an irregular slow boat service from Santar6m, but the schedule is such you'll need to stay two or more nights to have sufficient time to see anything.

->,

o

602

TOCANT!NS The state of Tocantins was created in 1989 from what was previously the northem half of Goi6s. It's in a transition zone betrveen t}te Amazon rainforest to the north and the cerrado (savanna) in the southeast. This makes for plenty of outdoor opportunities, and the state is making a concerted effort to portray itself as Brazil's next ecotourism hot spot It certainly has the potential, from easy-to reach hiking and waterfalls around thquarussf to vast protected axeas like Parque Estadual do Jalapiio (www.ialapao.to.gor.br) and Ilha do Banana], a Pantanal-like wetland.

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by the Rio Tocantins heldjust a scattering of rural Jazenl.as (ranches). Starting in 1989, a new state capital was built from scratch, and construction, the state government and economic incentives brought thousands of Brazilians to this unlikely landscape, lOOOkm north ofBrasilia and 16o0km south of Bel6m. The city itself is sure to strike most first-timers as sterile and shadeless, but it has a way of growing on you, with a number ofgood outdoorw options nearby. We wouldn't cross the country to visit,

and until neighboring Thquarussri rtally takes offas an ecotourism destination, there arent that many reasons to come here, although it does have a certain appeal as a study in custom-made, modern urban architecture.

@

sigtrts

Most of the sights of interest are around Pra4a Giross6is, one ofthe largest municipal

squares in the world. cATHEDRAL

(Praea Girossois) Palmas'

main cathedral has

loob with a low sloping exterior

and a long interior nave. It lacks the gravitas of Brazil's older houses ofworship, but is worth a quick look Memorial Coluna

PAtAcE

Palmas itself. The lobby has huge colorful mosaics and, in one @rner, an impressive scale model of Praca Giross6is. No shorts or tanktops; the 2nd floor closed onweekends.

@

Tours

Extremo

JalapSo (D63 99968-U66, 63 322-7990;

EcoTouR

tadual do Jalap6o, Taquarussu and around, from one to seven tl,ays (R$150 to R$3O00 per person). Tours include visiting remot€ waterfalls and Jalapdo's famous sand dunes.

is by 4WD vans; lodging

Thavel

Prestes

MEMoRIAL

(Prag Giross6is; 8&m-6pm Tue-Sun) EEB Housed in a curious white tubular structure near Palacio Ara8uaia" the Memorial Coluna Prestes tells the life story of Captain Luis Carlos Prestes, who led l5O0 rebel soldiers against the military dictatorship in 1924,.

includes

camping and modest hotels. Guides are excellent the clientele is mostly Brazilian. The extreme heat and strenuous excursions may prove challenging for some.

l*

Sleeping

Hotel Serra

(863

Azul

HoTELg

3215-1505; Rua N0-03;

s/d R$125450:

EE) Clean rooms, affordable prices and convenient location make this Palmas'best budget option. Rooms are small with few frills, but face onto a sunny courward with a quaint dining room where breakfast is served. It's close to the bus stop for those who dort't have a car, and has secure parking for those who do. Pousada dasArtes

(868

Hotel

HoTELSS

3219-1500; 103 Sul, L0-01 Av 78; s/d from

R$f,t8468;

Cathedral a modem

Araguaia

adventurous agency runs tours ofParque Es-

PoP2gs,ooo

Thirw years ago, the broad valley bisected

l=

Palacio

(E63 324'000; Prap Giross6is; 8&m-6pm) EE Built on the only hill in town, the state capitol building looks over the plaza and

www.ialapaoextremo.com.br Jalapao Eco Tour,409 Norte, AL 29' Lote lii, Plano Diretor Norte) This youthful and

Palmas Eoxxos z

The 25,OO0km march ]asted three years and is credited with helping bring democracy to Brazil, especially its lon8-isolat€d interior.

86ts)

This well-located upscale

hotel lives up to its name, with axtsy rooms ard architecture. Both are the handiwork of Gra4a Arnris, who desigrred the building and painted the intriguing axtwork in the guestrooms and common areas. Accommo' dations axe comfortable and modern; the small pool a welcome bonus. The hotel hosts occasional art expositions. Pousada dos

(D68

Girass6is

3219-4500;

HoTEL99

www.pouvdadosgirassois.

com.br; Av NS-01; s/d from R$120l150:

A 6 ts)

Rooms at this longtime favorite have details like modern paintings, glass showers and a

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writing desk with

targe windows and private verandas make some units feel more spacious. The pool area is oddly small and uninviting.

)(

a leather chair.

r"ting Seara

BUFFETS

wwwJacebook.com/seararestaurante; Rua NE-03, btwn Av NS-02 & Rua NE-02; per

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While anything's possible, the most common trip is three to five days based at a jungle lodge or on a riverboat, with day trips for hiking, canoeing, fishing for piranha, spotting caiman at nrght and visiting local villages. Sleeping in hammocks in the forest for a night or two is usually possible, but not required. Some operators also offer so-called survival tours, which are spent mostly or entirely in forest camps. Thinking carefully about what sort of trip you want can help determine which operator is best for you. How much do you want to rough it? Do you want a bed or a hammock? What about sleeping aboard a boat? Private bathroom, shared or pit toilet? Do you want to spend a night or two in the forest or do day trips from the lodge? How much do mosquitoes bother you? Do you prefer hiking or canoeing? There is no shame in choosing more or less comfort - you are there to enjoy yourself, after all. There are also a few questions to ask the tour operator: does the guide speak English (or a language you understand)? How long will you spend getting there? What is the trip itinerary? How much hiking andlor canoeing will you do? How large are the groups? Ask to see recent pictures of the accommodations and activities, and a guest comment book. And talk to other travelers! Virtually every foreigner you see in lvlanaus is planning a trip or returning from one, and they are a good source of honest, up-to-date info.

What to Bring Bring shoes or boots for hiking, sandals for around the lodge, long-sleeved shirts and pants, mosquito repellent, a hat and sunscreen, rain gear, flashlight, roll of toilet paper, daypack and a water bottle. And binoculars! Even a small pair makes a big difference, yet few operators have extra pairs. Plastic bags, including a heavy-duty one large enough for your entire pack, are useful for rainstorms and leaky boats. Leave whatever you don't need at your hotel in Manaus - virtually all offer free, secure luggage storage.

Chez les

Rois

(892 3584-5lil0;

PousADAS

www.chezlesrois.com.br;

P6rola

Negra 1 Quadra Gl, Conlunto Manauense, Barrio

Manaus HoTELSS (A92 3303-li!30; www.intercityhoteis.com.

Hotel lntercity

br;

Prof MArciano Armond 544: standard s/d

ts@6tr) Occupying from R$205l235, superior s/d from R$230/260; an attractive colonial home in a swanlry E@@) One of Manaus' better hot€ls, the

Vieiralves; r from R$110;

neighborhood, Chez les Rois has handsome

woodwork and great common areas, with little nooks where you can read or soak up the sun, plus a welcoming pool. Guestroorns are smallish, and you'll probably need a taxi to get around, but the overall ambience is worth a few bumped elbows and extra reais.

Intercity has large, well-appointed rooms

with a sitting areA rustic wooden floors and fine views from some rooms. The only real difference between standard and superior rooms is that the latter are found on the 8th floor or above. The restaurant is a disappointment.

613

When to Go You can visit the Amazon year-round, but when you visit will have a big impact on the kind of experience you'll have. From May to October, give or take a month at either end depending on the year, rivers overflow their banks. This means you'll spend much of your time paddling through the flooded forest. lt's a terrific time to see monkeys such as squirrel monkeys, capuchins, saki monkeys and howler monkeys, as well as plenty of birdlife. Caiman are more commonly spotted on night tours at this time. To have a better chance of seeing cats, big snakes or deep-forest monkey species such as spider monkeys, you'll need to find dry land and hike into the forest, although even then these species can be elusive. From November through to May, especially early in this period, flooded forest is less widespread, meaning river beaches are exposed and accessible and lt's easier to see wildlife along the river margins. On the downside, the magic of floating through the f looded forest is more difficult to experience, and rain is an ever-present possibility.

Wildlife The Amazon is teeming with animals, but seeing them can be quite hard. (lt's a much better place to be wowed by the flora and the river itself, rather than wildlife.) On a typical trip, you are very likely to see pink and grey dolphins and a slew of birds, rncluding herons, parrots and possibly macaws and toucans. Monkeys, sloths, anacondas, boa constrictors and caimans are relatively common, but seeing them is no sure thing. River otters and tapirs are even more elusive, and you're almost certain to not see jaguars, ocelots or manatees they are extremely hard to spot. 'Whate water'areas tend to have more animals, but they also have more mosquitoes and thicker vegetation. State and national reserves have more (and less skittish) wildlife. The biggest factor in seeing animals is luck, followed by the quality of the forest and the diligence of your guide. Refrain from chatting unnecessarily.

Most agencies have a small lodge or jungle camp where guests stay and acttvities such as canoeing, hiking and fishing are launched. A handful of these are luxurious; they cater to an upscale client base and while the activities are usually the same as those offered by operators in l\,lanaus, the lodging, food and service tend to be somewhat more refined (and the prices substantially higher). Prices at these places can easily surpass US$1000 per person per day. Elsewhere, the ma.iority of jungle lodges have amenittes such as electricity and f lush toilets, but not all. Prices usually include meals, lodging, transport and guides, and range between R$150 to R$350 per person per day; this normally includes time spent traveling to and from the lodge, not just the time you're actually there. Prices vary primarily by the type of accommodations: hammocks with shared toilets are the cheapest option, followed by dorms and private rooms, then riverboats and specialized tours.

Hotel Adrian6polis All Suites APARTMENTgg (E 92 2101-2000; www.hoteladrianopolis.tur.br; SalOutrageous-

haps, but still a welcome oasis of businessclass comfort amid Manaus' mostly gritty downtown options. Rooms are sma.llish but

good value, these modern apartments have smallish bedrooms, but size doesn't

very comfortable and clean, with modern bathrooms and technology. There's an ex-

matter here because there's a kitchen and sit-

tralarge restaurant and well-stocked con-

ting area to relax in. It's a R$20, ten-minut€

venience store, plus a lobby business area, a small fitness room and a kids'playroom. No swimming pool.

vadorl95; aptfrom R$220;

taxi ride from the Pra4a Go lnn

Manaus

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z. =

Jungle Lodges

ly

II

o

B6@)

Sao Sebastiao. HoTELg$

(E 92 3306-2600; www.atlanticahotels.com.brl hotel/manaus/go-inn-manaus; Monsenhor Coutinho560; s/d R$185/220; EE @) Abit plastic, per-

Boutique Hotel Casa Teatro HoTELSS (D92 3633-8381; www.casateatro.com.br; 10 de Julho 632: s/d R$210l250. with shared bathroom

E

614 R$20l150; EE) Rooms are modern and cute, but reallv small - basically, boutique walk-in closets. Standards have bunks and shared bathrooms, while en-suite rooms at least have double beds, though still not much floor space. Common areas are truly lovely, including cozy sitting rooms and a rooftop patio with views ofthe opera house. Great location and service, but brace yourself for the sardine treatment.

*

not"t villa

Amaz6nia

HorEL$$s

(D92 3347-7829: www.villaamazonia.com; 10 de

Julho 315; r lrom R$550; ts68) Arguablv Manaus' only top-end hotel worthy of the name, Hotel Villa Amazdnia is wonderfully central, with large stylish rooms, muted accents and personal service. The building it inhabits is similarly stunning. Some rooms look on to a verdant garden.

\

erting Marlene

! z

t

BRAZTLTAN S

mainsf romR$10;

&l1am-l1pm Tue-Sun) Simple, no-nonsense cooking with buffet lunches (R$lO per plate) that range from rice and spaghetti to salads and grilled meats, plus tacacd (p593)

and local fish dishes. It's hugely popular with locals. Delicias Caseiras BRAZILIAN, SELF,SERVICE S (A92 3232 9202; 10 de Julho 499; lunch per tg R$30, mains R$20-45; E11am-3pm & 6:309:30pm Mon-Sat) The tables are crammed together and the fans are blowing full blast to accommodate the scads of loyal clients at this great hole-in-the-wall just off Pra4a S5o Seba$ieo. Lunch self-serve is outstanding, especially for the price, but it's also open for dinner, serving home-sile classics.

*Amaz6nico

Regional

(492

Peixaria sEAFooD,BRAzrLrANS8

3236-0546: www.amazonico.com.br;

Darcy Yargas 222; mains R$36-98;

Av

&

noon-3pm & 6:30-llpm Mon-Sat, 11:30am-4pm Sun) However

you get your tarnbaqui (perhaps the tastiest of all Amazonian fish) prepared here stewed, grilled, ribs - the execution is perfect. They serve all manner of other fish and steak dishes, and fab desserts too. The atmosphere is casual, the service attentive and the cooking top-notch. It's one of the best meals you'll have in the Amazon. Even once you factor in the taxi fare both ways, it's

t€rrific value.

Tambaqui De

(A92

Banda

BRAZTLTANSS

3622-8162; www.tambaquidebanda.com.

br; Praga 56o Sebastiio: mains for two R$50-80;

Sllam-Ilpm) The look is plastig the ]ocation is ideal and the food surprisingly good. Bring some friends - nearly all dishes are for two or more people and the group-friendly menu makes for a boisterous ambience. Outdoor tables face the opera house. The specialty is grilled boneless tambaqui (a local fish), served with all the fixings.

Delicias da (A 9298192-6092;10deJulho625;

I-l IIn I> I= 7>

Amaz6nia

Tacacaria BRAZTLTAN 89 (E 92 99112-3730; wwwjacebook.com/facacaria Amazonia; 10 de Julho 503; mains R$20-45; O10:30am-10:30pm Mon-Sat, from 3pm Sun) This bright, appealing place serves a range of local dishes, specializing in racz,cA @593) and well-prepared fish from the Amazon, inclrding tambaqui and pirarucfi,. English is spoken and they're good at putting an order together without the hard sell.

Restaurante

Castelinho

BUFFEISS

(092 363-3lU;

www.fucebook.com/Castelinho Restaurante; Barroso 317; per G R$45; Ollam-

at this popular per-kilo lunchonly place are perfectly good, but the highlisht has to be the building itself: a beautiful, high-ceilinged 3pm Mon-Fri) The food and service

rubber+ra mansion that served as a private residence, doctor's off,ce and foreign consulate before being converted into a restaurant. You'll flnd everything from tapioca and fish to lasagna-

*Coco

Bambu

Manaus

BRAzluAN,sEAFooDoss

(A92

3667-7a30; www.cocobambu.com; Ponta Negra Shopping Center, Av Coronel Teixeira 5705; mains R$,1$120; & ll3Oam-3pm &8pm-midnightSun-Thu, 1l30am-5pm & 8pm-lam Fri & Sat) In a shopping

center on the way to Ponta Negxa west of town, this place deserves its consistently good reviers. Professional service and artfully prepared seafood and steaks are fabulous, but leave room for the brilliant desserts. The cocktails are similarly worth crossing town for.

Banzeiro

(A92

BRAzrLrANsss

3234-1621: www.restaurantebanzeiro.com.

br; Libertador 102, NS das Gracas; mains R$75-1u10; &11:30am-3pm & 7-11pm, to 10pm Sun) One of

Manaus' top gourmet restaurants, especially for fish. Varieties such as pirarucd, tambaqui and other Amazonian specialties are served in various preparations, from cheese and banana to parsley and.formigas (ants). Pricey but truly one-of-a-kind. Online reservations recommended.

615

Q orinrlng & Nighttife Bar do Armando

BAR

(@ 92 32321195; www.f acebook.com/bardoarman do; 10 deJulho 593; S 5pm-2am) Near the opera

house,

this is a traditional rendezvous for

Manaus' intellectual and bohemian types, but all sorts of people crowd around the outdoor tables for beers and conversation. Mao

Bar

BAR

(492

3345-4550; Barroso: &Spm-late TueSat) This bar is super-cool - a moodily lit, semi-subterranean spot on the basement level with great music and drinks and a laidback backpacker vibe. Occaslonal live music Copacabana

Chopperia

3584-4569;

oLUB

www.facebook.com/0ficial.

a

semi-open-air bar, performance with room for 7000 revelers! DJs spin everything from samba and MPB (Mrisica Popular Brasileira) to electronica and funk. Check out the club's sta6e and dance floor,

fr

entertainment

*Porao

AlemSo

LrvE Musrc do 3239-2976; www.poraodoalemao.com.br; Av 56o Jorge 1986; R$30; S10:30pmJate WedSat) This longtime bar and club features Brazilian and international rock and pop, and has a safe, lively scene popular with tourists and locals alike. Thereh a VIP area

(492

upstairs (R$40).

(492

Copacabana; Estrada do Turismo, TarumS; &7pm3am Thu-Sun) Rio-style bar and dance club,

\Mith

taurants.

Teatro

and movie screenings.

(492

Facebook page for details and deals. Located on Estrada do Tirrismo, a long avenue near Ponta Ne$a with numerous bars and res-

Amazonas

LrvE MUStc

3622-L880; PraQa Sio Sebastiao; free to R$80; 88pm, except Mon) Performances at

Manaus' iconic theater are all over the place: professional opera, jazz combos, student guita! dance and more. Quality varies but the setting is superb: some shows are

terrific, others barely tolerable, most are free. A line starts forming at 7pm, but you

can usually arrive right before the show starts to snag

a

balcony or rear seat.

{ Irt

=

o JUNGLE TRIP SCAMS lVlost travelers to the Amazon have a wonderful time. But ltulanaus is teeming with scammers and touts, and it helps to know how to avoid them. N,1ost peddle cut-rate tours that turn out to be woefully uninspired: awful accommodations, surly guides, and sad, damaged forest with no wildlife. Tourists have been seriously injured, and a few even killed, on tours with unscrupulous or inexperienced guides. Mainly, though, they get duped: swindled out of their time, money and a chance to really enjoy the Amazon. Here are some tips and pointers to avoid getting scammed.

Don't be naive. The smooth-talking guy who approaches you at the airport, on the street or at the door of your hostel, with promises of an epic adventure at a rock-bottom price, is most likely scamming you. Do not tell touts what hotel or tour agency you're considering, They're trying to squeeze a commassion out of the hotel or operator. The magic words are 'l already have a reservationJ whether it's true or not. Touts only get paid for bringing people without reservations or prior bookrngs.

No legitimate tour agency'fishes'for clients at the airport. Those that do are cutrate operators trying to snag unsuspecting tourists. Some touts shamelessly lie about who they work for, claiming to have been sent there to pick you up. Many legit agencies do offer airport pickups, but they send someone with your name on a sign. Never pay for a tour anywhere except at the agency's main office. Touts often pretend they are with a legitimate agency but steer you to a cafe or airport bench to make the deal. They even make phony phone calls to convince you the main office is closed, or that you must commrt right away to get the best price or the'last seat on the boat.' These are all scams.

Above all, don't risk your life to save a little time or money. ln the end, it's tourists who keep scammers in business by booking with them. There are legltimate established agencies for all budgets and tastes; take the time to find one that works for you.

z z. C (n

616

fi

f

snopping Galeria

(492

Amaz6nica

3203 3633;

Costa Azevedo 272:

ARTs&cRAFTs

[email protected]

Mon-Sat) Right on

& &m-8pm

Pra4a S5o Sebastido, this is Manaud top shop

for genuinearticle Amazonian

handiworl I= 7>

Qoxxsz

r

PoP 18.600

The 2oll opening of the Ponte Rio Negro (Rio Negro Bridge) was a game changer for communities on the other side of the Rio N

o 2 u o zm c) u o @

Iz.

Negro from Manaus, especially Novo Airdo. In the years since, Novo Airdo has bemme

an increasingly popular gateway for

eco-

tours on the Rio Negro and its tributaries, including some of the Amazon's most rewarding destinations, such as the Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi and the Anavilhanas Archipelago. As a town, Novo AirSo is also a smaller, more manageable alternative to Manaus, with a handful

neighboring riverside communities, the Parque Nacional de Anavilhanas (p62.S), and a series of local caves (more like roclly overhangs). For something multiday and further afield, consider the Reserva ExtratMsta Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi (p623).

*Visit Amaz6nia

(892

EcoTouR

92 99215-1648;

www.visit amazonia.org; Av Presidente Getulio Vargas) This

99114-6038,

agency's owner, Chris Clark, a no-nonsense Scotsman, has spent decades helping to pro-

tect

-

and establish responsible ecotourism

in - the gorgmus animal-rich Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio BrancoJauaperi (p623),

BLACK & WHITE There are three types of rivers in the Amazon Basin: branco (white), negro (black) and c/aro (clear). White rivers (actually more a creamy beige) come from the Andes and get

their color from sediment eroded from those'young'mountains. White-water rivers including the Solim6es and Madeira - are loaded with nutrients, supporting abundant plants and wildlife along their paths. Black rivers, such as the Rio Negro and Rio Urubu. originate in northern Amazonia and flow over much older land, with far less sediment to wash downstream. Black rivers are slower and warmer than white rivers, allowing the vegetation in them time to rot and to retease organic acids. Those acids turn the water'blackl actually a tea-like color' The same acids kill mosquito larvae, meaning black-water areas have amazingly few mosquitoes and a low incidence of malaria and other diseases. Clear rivers mostly originate in southern and central Brazil, and have neither the sediment nor the organic acids that would make them white or black. The Tapal6s and Xingu rivers are clear, and small tributaries in predominantly white or black water areas can be clear if therr course happens to allow it. Both white and black water rivers f lood seasonally, but the result is not the same, at least in name. Forest flooded with black water is referred to as Eap6, while forest flooded with white water iscalledvArzea.

62t also known as Xixuari-Xparin6. He still spe-

cializes in highly remmmended trips there but also runs tours from Novo Airao to the Anavilhanas Archipelago and elsewhere. Plan on at least a week ifgoing to the Xixuari, two weeks for the Xparin6.

*Expedigso Katerre

(892

EcoTouR

3365-1644: wwwkaterre.com; Francisco

Cardoso)

This excellent operator runs high-

quality expeditions from one to eight days to the marvelous Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi (p623); as they Iike to say, they begin their Amazon journeys where many other operators end theirs. Their boats are among the Amazon's best, and they're flexible in meeting individual or group needs. Based out ofthe Mirante do Gavido Amazon lodge. Em Cantos da

Amaz6nia

EcorouR

(D92

3365-1023, 92 9229-6667; www.emcantos daamazonia.com; Pousada Bela Vista, Av Presiden-

te Getulio Vargas 4Z at Av Ajuricaba) Day trips with this amiable operator based out of the Pousada Bela Vista explore the islands and waterways of the Anavilhanas Archipelago,

the Madada Caves and nearby riverside villages, while more expensive excursions, including multiday trips, go as far as Jaf National Park (p624,). Ama

Boto

wTLDLIFE

(D93

99337-6510; Antenor Carlos Frederico; This dolphin-feeding operation helped put Novo Airio on the map. Such is its popularity that adulVchild R$15250: &8am-5pm)

now thankfully, swimming with the dolphins has been stopped, but watching them feed makes for a fine photo opportunity. Visits begin on the hour (except lpm) with a ls-minute, Portuguese-only presentation on pink dolphins, followed by the feeding. Located 5OOm upriver from Pousada Bela Vista just past the marina.

l5

f

Pousada Bela

(892

Vista

pousADAss

99229-6662 92 3365-1023; www.pouvda-

belavista.com; Av Presidente GetulioVargas 47', s/d/ tMtr incl breakfast R$210/260/310/360; E 6 E )

Easily Novo Air6o's best midrange guesthouse and a wonderful place to take a break from life on the road, Pousada Bela Vista is run by a German-Brazilian couple and features comfortable rooms adorned with richly colorful paintings by a local artist, as well as a swimming pool and the town's best Rio Negro views. It has great meal and bar service too.

There's outdoor gym equipment or hammocks, depending on your needs, as well as colorftrlly painted children's playground equipment. An in-house tour operator, Em Cantos da Amaz6nia, runs day trips and multiday excursions.

*Mirante Amazon

(492

do GaviSo

Lodge

LoDGEg$$

3365 1181 www.mirantedogaviao.com.br; Francisco Cardoso; s incl breakfast R$1031-1526,

d incl breakfast R$1788-2662;

ts68) Z

This

lodge at Novo Airdo's northern end is a real

=

that resemble the upturned hulls of local

o

N stunner. Everything here is axchit€cturally o striking, from its tree-house rooms to those 7

-

fishing boats, which maximize natural air- z. m flow. Rooms are large and supremely mm- c) fortable; tree-house rooms are the smallest, a o but have the best Rio Negro views. There's @ an outstanding open-sided restaurant (p622) by the water. Everything here is built from sustainable loca-l wood, and theret an observation tower and riverside games room. A planned expansion will only bring the number of rooms to t€n, ensuring that the sense of personal service remains. Their in-house tour operato! Expedigeo

Katerre,

is similarly

excellent, and all-

inclusive packages are possible.

Sleeping

Pousada

(D92

Lanna

pousADA$

3365-1765; Av Ajuricaba 8; d/tr/q R$50/60/70; BE) Stay here only if you must, or if price is everything. Cell-like rooms at this basic hotel are small, many have no windows and reception is often nowhere to be found. But they do have televisions, wi-fi that sometimes works, and aircon. AIas, the showers are cold and breakfast is not included. They rent roorns by the hour

on weekend nights...

n

Anavilhanas Jungle

Lodge

LoDGES$€

(492

98111-4298, Manaus 92 3622-8996; www. anavilhanaslodge.com; 2-night, 3-day all-inclusive

s R$3540-5544, d R$5600-8360; 8ts6) This well-run lodge has stylish modern rooms with hardwood floors,

package

electric lighting, private bathrooms and

even air-conditioning. Even bettel the rich forest and winding waterways of the namesake Anavilhanas Archipelago are directly across the water, just outside the

a

z.

622 front door. Tours include canoeing, hiking and multiday expeditions. Popular with families, it s located on a secluded spotjust downriver from town.

There's

a

minimum il/o-night

stay.

T[ansfers by seaplane from Manaus can be arranged, as can excursions around the sur-

rounding area-

f,

erting BRAztLtAN

3

Rua Barbosa; burgers R$8-12; S2-11pm Mon-Fri, llam-l0pm Sat & Sun) If you spot the red wv Beetle outside,

yor.rlll know you've found this simple yet ap-

pealing bar-restaurant. l,ocals swear (and we agree) that these are the best burBers in town. Itt the top pick for a drink away from the river.

f Mirante do Gaviio BRAZ|LIAN8S Amazon Lodge (A 92 3365 1181; www.mirantedogaviao.com.br; I-{ IFrancisco Cardoso; mains R$45-78; S noon-9pm; In tr) This classy restaurant in the lodge of I> I= the same name has an extensive menu, 7> N focusing on local ingredients with a few o innovative riffs; the iconic pirarucil fish is n grilled with sleeet potatoes, coconut milk, o lemon and ginger. It's open to nonguests, z. but you'll need to call ahead to make a r reservation. There are plenty of vegetarian c) fr options too. The riverside setting is lovely. o

I

-

q,

*Flor do Luar a (1J93 99418-0865; Av Presidente

BRAztLrANgg

Getulio Vargas;

mains R$26-45; &9am'5pm Fri-Sun) One of the Amazon's best restaurants, Flor do Luar sits on a floating pontoon on the Rio Negro and serves fabulous food and cold beers. The specialty is the band.a de tambaqui assada, a local fish cooked on the grill with plan-

tains, but start with the brilliant dadinho d,e tapioca (deep-fried tapioca croquettes). You can even swim from the waterfront platform. BRAZ|L|ANSS Pousada Bela Vista 3365-1023; www.pouvda-belavista.com; Av Presidente Getulio Vargas 47; mains R$26-40; &11:30am-9pm; 6) The welcoming barrestaurant at the Pousada Bela Vista has elevated Rio Negro views, decent service and nicely prepared food, from salads to steak

(492

and grilled fish.

snopping

*FundagSo Almerinda

Malaquias (FAM;

892

&Sun)

1

ARTS &

cRAffs

99398-6331, 92 3365-1000; www fundacaoalmerindamalaquias.org; off Av Ajuricaba: &7-11am & l-Spm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon & 2-5pm Sat

The shop for this local foundation,

set up to help local community projects, has an excellent choice of mostly wooden cra.fts,

Saloon Aljunicaba (D95 3365-16f4: cnr Av Ajuricaba &

z.

fl

Itt a small but

chosen menu. Nonguests welcome.

carefully

from carved animals and canoes to notebooks. We especially liked the tiny box of 20 different Amazonian woods. If you come on weekdays and (sometimes) Saturday mornings, you'll see the local craftspeople at

work

Atroari

ARTS&oRAFIS Arte Waimiri (Av Presidente Getulio Vargas; &8am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat) This small shop at the entrance to the port sells crafts from the Waimiri Atroari indigenous people who live a day's journey north of Novo Airio, along the Rio Jauaperi. It's mostly basketwork, bows and arrows, hammocks and a handful of Portuguese-language books about the Waimiri Atroari.

Todo

(E

Mosaico

ART

92 98435-7331; [email protected]; Av Pres-

idente Getulio Vargas; e3-7pm Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun) This one-room showroom exhib-

its the eye-catching paintings (parrots are a recurring theme) of local artist Buy Chaves and the wood-sculpted furnishings of Helen Rossy. It's next to the entrance of Pousada Bela Vista and well worth a look.

Q lnformation Banco Bradesco (Av Jo6o Paulo ll; S9am-3pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) The town's only ATM.

@ Cetting There & Away BOAT a few times a week between Novo Airio and Manaus (R$48, nine to ten hours). From Manaus, they leave around 8pm on Tuesday and Friday. Going the other way, they depart Novo AirSo's impressive (albeit rather under-used) port around 8pm on Sunday, Mon-

Riverboats travel

day and Thursday. BUS & SHARED TAXI

Collective taxi services (referred to locally as taxi lotagao) are quick and plentiful, zipping between Manaus and Novo Ai16o ($60, 2% hours) many times per day. The taxi stop in Manaus is on the westbound side of AM-070,

623 THE WAIMIRI ATROARI The story of Brazil's relationship with the indigenous peoples of the Amazon is told in part through the story of the Waimiri Atroari people, whose 28,500 sq km Reserva lndigena Waimiri Atroari straddles Roraima and Amazonas states. Their homeland also sits just across the river from the Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi, north of the Rio Negro. When the first explorers, settlers and miners arrived in the territory of the Waimiri Atroari in the late 19th century, their population was close to 6000. Encroachment by outsiders and government efforts to'civilize'indigenous groups saw increasing conflict throughout the 20th century as the local population fought for survival. This developed into open warfare in the late 1960s and early 1970s when the Brazilian government began construction of the BR-174 highway, which would ultimately connect Manaus with Boa Vista. As the conflict escalated, massacres of the Waimiri Atroari occurred with ampunity - a 2OL4 government report found that the Waimiri Atroari population fell from 3OOO in 1972 (the year that the road's construction began) to just 1O00 in 1974. Disease, a tin mane and the building of the Balbina Dam all contributed further to this massive loss of life. By 1988, just 388 WaimiriAtroari people were believed to survive. And yet, there is some evidence that the situation may have turned around through a combination of more enlightened government policies and growing self-reliance within the community. lntruders have been driven from Waimiri Atroari land, health and educatron infrastructure has been developed with the use of Waimiri Atroari staff, and, since 2016, the community closes the Manaus-Boa Vista highway from 6pm to 6am (an exception is made for buses) every night to protect the region's wildlife and wandering bands of hunters: the Roraima state government is currently suing the community for this act. Money is also flowing into the community thanks to government compensation schemes and a growing market for indigenous handicrafts: you can purchase Waimiri Atroari handicrafts at Galeria Amaz6nica (p616) in Manaus and Arte Waimiri Atroari in Novo AirZo. A 2014 estimate suggested that the Waimiri Atroari population had recovered to 1749, with rumors that the number may be higher, with uncontacted bands of Waimiri Atroari living deep inside the reserve's dense forest.

about 700m before the bridge; taxis depart as soon as there are four passengers, from roughly 6am to 5pm, and will drop you at your hotel. Leaving Novo Airio (Av Ajuricaba), the stop is on the main drag at the northern (river) end of town; hotel drop-off in Manaus costs an

extra R$40. Alternately, Araun6 buses (892 3615-1110, Manaus 92 3642-5757; Av Ajuricaba) leave Manaus' bus station at 11:30am and 4pm, and leave Novo AirSo at 5:30am and 4pm (R$50, four hours).

Reserva Extrativista Baixo

Rio Branco-Jauaperi This massive swathe of protected rainforest (Xixuai-Xiparin6) is a fantastic ecotourism destination and one ofthe best places to see wildlife in the Amazon. You'll need at least a week to get the best out of it, but expect to see up to ten primate species, giant river otters, dolphins, caimans and, ifyou're really luclg, jaguars, margays and ocelots. The reserve is located 5ookm upstream from Manaus and stretches from the banks

E

= N

o

z

7

z.

ra u o

of the Rio Negro north for almost 4,00km. @ The Jauaperi River is the main access point and is accessible from Novo Air6o. To the z. east, the Terra Indigena Waimiri-Atroari is safely locked away, while the Rio Branco National Park is to the west, linking a vast chain of protected areas across Brazil's northern Amazon region. The reserve remains one of the most pristine corners of

I

the Amazon.

History A reserve of some description was first proposed back in the l98os in recognition ofthe region's intact forest and riverine ecosystems. Despite signiflcant opposition, a decree was finally issued on June 5, 2018, $anting status as an 'extractive reserve' (reseroa ettrat-

aaista, or RISEX). First imagined by Chico Mendes, extractive reserves allow loca.ls to live inside the protect€d area and take what they need for subsistence, but not for commercial purposes. No more than 500 people live inside the reserve's boundaries.

624

f

a"tiritt"t

Excursions include hiking and canoe trips through the flooded forest. You'll spend more time doing either one or the other depending on the water level and time ofyear.

The forests tend to be flooded from February through to April with little dry land. Fishing is possible year-round. This is an excellent area to spot wildlife. Commonly spotted animals include howler,

capuchin, squirrel and saki monkeys; marmosets and tarnarins; pink and gray dolphins; manatees; anacondas and boa constrictors; and macaws and toucans.

@

lr

Amazdnia

(p620), accommodations are in simple stilted cabins across the water from Xixuaf village; rooms come with a shared toilet and mosquito nets, although malaria has been eradicated from the area- larger groups can be accommodated in boats, which is where visitors from other tour companies stay. As you'll need to join a tour to visit here, all your meals will be included in the price ofyour package. There are no restaurants or grocery stores, although you can catch your own fish or sometimes purchase fish from local fishers.

Tours

Although technically in southern Roraima

O Cetting

state, the reserve is accessible via Novo Air6o

The only way to arrive here is on an organized tour. The main XixuaI base is an eight-hour speedboat ride north from Novo Air5o, although most boat trips take much longer.

and the upper Rio Negxo. Most tours here are handled by the excellent Visit Amazonia (p620), based in Novo Air6o. A week is the recnmmended minimum stay, but it's possible to visit for a shorter time if you mme and go by speedboat. Visits start

at €14O per person per day, and vary depending on length of stay, size ofyour group and N o mode oftransport. In the far northem reaches of the rrserve, the Xiparin6 is even more of 7 with manatees and all manner o a lost world z. of other wiltllife. A trip up herc is a serious m expedition, requiring at least two weeks from c) D Manaus and costing €180 per person per day. o Other groups offering tours here include tI, Expediseo Katerre (p621) and Amazdnia Ex2 peditions (p609).

-

15 Sleeping & Eating If you're traveling with Visit

There & Away

Barcelos Aoxxgz t PoPzl]4s Quiet riverside Barcelos is no secret to fisherfofi foreigrr and Brazilian alike, who flockto the small town for tucanarA (pearock bass) package tours. Fleets ofyachts and riverboats serve eager khaki*lad anglers, and locals earn good money as guides and boat crew Non-fishing tourism, howevet is relatively rare, though not for lack of potential. Barcelos provides access to the world's largest river archipelago and Brazil's highest waterfal.

z.

NATIONAL PARKS OF THE RIO NEGRO Parque Nacional de Anavilhanas Stretching along the Rio Negro for almost l30km and with 4OO islands, this national park, centered on the Anavilhanas Archipelago, is one of the most rewarding excursions in the Rio Negro Basin. When water levels are high, its flooded forests are most often visited on a day trip from Novo Air5o. At other times, island beaches appear and camping overnight becomes possible. The best tours here are run by Visit Amaz6nia (p620) and ExpediQao Katene (p621). Parque Nacional do Jari Spanning nearly 23,000 sq km, Ja0 is Brazil's second-biggest national park, and one of the largest tracts of protected tropical rainforest on earth. lt stretches west from the Rio Negro along the .Ja0 and Carabinani rivers. The Unesco-listed park has a number of waterfalls, important stands of primary forest and a handful of access rivers. All of that said, visiting is less rewarding than the Reserva Extra-

tivista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi (p623). Wildlife - including numerous primate species, big snakes, dolphins and sloths. as well as forest birdlife - is more difficult to see here than in some other areas, although the forest is impressive. There are no lodges in the park, so it's best to visit with a tour outfit that specializes in riverboat tours, such as Swallows & Amazons (p610) or Lo Peix (p609) in Manaus, or Em Cantos da Amazdnia (p621) in Novo Air3o. Advance booking is essential, as the operator must obtain special permission to enter the park.

625 Barcelos is adjacent to Mariu6 Archipelago,

the largest fluvial archipelago in the world (Anavilhanas is second) with over 750 isla.nds and excellent beaches, canoeing and camping. A word of warning: on our last trip here, very few independent tourists had been passing through and organizing excursions upon arrival had become quite difficult - try and line something up before you arrive in town.

O

sights

f

Serra do Arac5 State Park wATERFALT.eARK Although this state park was established in 1990 to preserve the unique canyons carved out by the Rio Aracf, it wasn't until recently that the massive waterf'all at its heart was officially measured and certified. Tlrrns out, Cachoeira do El Dorado is Brazil's highest waterfall, plunging 353m over a sandstone cliff into a mist-swept pool below. Adventure tours to the waterfall take a minimum oflO days and cost around R9250 to R$350 per person per day. Ask at Hostel Barcelos about arranging a trip; at least one month advance planning is required.

Arquip6lago

Mariuii

NATURE RESERVE

Amazonas

Mataverde

EcoTUR

(892 9185-60n; per person per day R$150 food & lodging only R$75) Four hours by motorized canoe from Barcelos, this simple camp has good hiking and even better canoeing. You'll explore the islands and waterways of the labyrinthine Mariu6 Archipelago, with a chance to see birds, turtles, dolphins, even river otters. It's operated by a young Spaniard and his Brazilian wife, who grew up in a nearby village; contact them directly or through Hostel Barcelos.

lH

Steeping & Eating

Hotel Rio

Negro

HorEL$

(897

3321-1260; hotelrionegrobarcelos@hotmail. com; Av Mariu:i 51; s/d R$90,2130; ts) An at-

tractive, reliable choice that has large clean rooms with TV and air-conditioning; rear units have views of the river. The hotel aJso has its own pier and can arrange short fishing trips for people not interested in the big multiday packages. Hostel

(A97 Anauali

Barcelos 99157-5271i

46;

HosTELs

www.hostelbarcelos.com:

hammock R$20, dm with fan $30,

II

N

Comfortable o rooms, a swimming pool, a laid-back vibe D and an affable Luxembourger who serves a o

trE)

(per person per day R$150) Hostel Manaus ar-

s/d with air-con R$40l80;

ranges engaging tours of vaxious lengths to this massive collection of islands, the largest river archipelago in the world, southeast of Barcelos. You'll ply the winding waterways, visit island communities, sleep on the beach or in local homes, and look out for otters, mircaws and other wildlife.

gG.to spot for independent travelers arriving 6) in Barcelos. Guests can make use of bicycles, fr o kayaks, wi-fi and a collection ofinternation(D aI movies. It's located nearthe airporU reser-

Praia

Grande

BEA0H

This is Barcelos'biggest and most accessible beach. It's on an island directly opposite town and is a short boat ride (Rg,i) from the main dock. Shacks serve hot meals and cold drinks, especially on summer weekends. There are many smaller, more secluded beaches a bit further away, where boatmen can drop you offfor a few hours.

f

Tours

Untamed

(EU

Angling

98181 8703; www.marieriver.com)

FtsHtNG

This up

scale fishing operator run tours into the Mari6 Fishing Reserve, centered on indigenous territory on the Mari6 River, close to the Colombia border v/est of Barcelos. They have

their own guides, booking service and luxury accommodation boat; you'll need to book directly with them well in advance of your visil Most trips fly in directly from Manaus.

-

mean fruit-juice cocktail all make this the z.

r

vations essential. The owner has info on a variety ofguided and DIY excursions, includingvisiting an observation tower, ornarnental fish farms, turtle breeding grounds and fruit farms with

$eat birdwatching. Camale6n Beach

Grill

(Tenheiro Aranha; mains R$12-45)

BRAztuANs

A

wooden

stairway leads from the plaza down to

platforms where umbrella-shaded tables

have views overlooking the river and Praia Grande beyond. Grilled fish and meat are served with standard sides.

($ lnformation MONEY Banco do Brasll (Av Mariud s/n; S9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Central bank with forex facilities. Bradesco (Av MariuAs/n; &9am-Zpm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM.

a

z.

626 TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Office (Av Mariue s/n; & hours vary) Very limited assistance.

{$ Cetting There & Away AIR

airport is 1.5km southeast of the town center. MAP (p617) had temporarily stopped flights connecting Barcelos with Manaus and Sio Gabriel da Cachoeira at the time of writing. Check online to see if they've resumed.

The

I{ IIa

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o CD

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as Bela Adormecida (Sleeping BeauW). The town has long been the jumping-off point for lOday journeys up Brazil's highest peak, Pico da Neblina (2994,m).

f l"tiriti""

BOAT Various companies provide slow boat and speed-

S5o Gabriel da Cachoeira. Forest excursions,

boat services between Porto 56o Raimundo (p617) in Manaus and Barcelos: be sure you're buying tickets from the correct operator for the day and time you want! Slow boats leave Manaus for Barcelos (hammock/cabin R$140/350, 25 to 30 hours) on Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday at around 6pm, returning to Manaus on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday (various departure times). Speedboats with airplane-style seating make the same trip in about 12 hours, departing Manaus on Tuesday and Friday at 3pm (R$180) and leaving Barcelos the same days at 7pm.

including hiking and swimming, are also possible in the surrounding area- Pousada Pico da Neblina is a good place to inquire

o o z. ra

ange water. Outside 56o Gabriel, sever-

al buttes jut up from the rainforest, including a three-peaked mountain known

Climbing mountains in the middle of the Amazon is a pretty cool reason to come to

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tumbling picturesquely by, and sandy by the Negro's blood-or-

beaches lapped

S5.o

Gabriel da Cachoeira

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PoP44.600

Sdo Gabriel da Cachoeira is the Upper Rio Negrot largest town, but you'd never guess from its pleasant, laid-back vibe. The town sits on a lovely bend of the Rio Negro river, with a long series of rapids

about trips of all kinds.

Mountain Glimblng Ctimbing Bela Adormecida (four to five days, R$250 per person per day, two person

minimum) is the most popular excursion, and includes motoring up the ink-black Rio Curicuriari, with its picturesque rapids and rock formations, visiting Yanomami villages and hiking through towering rainforest to reach the thousand-meter peaks.

And dont forget Pico da Neblina (299am), a rocky wedge awhirl in freezing fog, though the bureaucratic challenges of getting a permit to do so deter all but a few mountaineers.

Hiking & Swimming

If

permission to enter Yanomami territory

is not forthcoming, camping trips (from

WARNING Most of the forest around Sao Gabriel is Yanomami indigenous land and makes for great hiking and boating, but official permission is requared to enter. The situation changes frequently, but at the time of research, guides in S2o Gabriel were having considerable diff iculty getting permits. Yanomami leaders reportedly want tourists to use only indigenous guides, at an added cost. Some freelance guides will enter without permission, but you run a serious risk of being detained and possibly fined. Alternatively, there are a handful of places that do not require permission but still offer rewarding hiking, canoeing and wildlife-spotting. ln any case, advance inquiries are strongly suggested.

R$250 per person per day) can be arranged in non-indigenous areas, including hiking

through animal-rich forest and swimming in low chunlry waterfalls. llha do Sol is a long sandy island in the middle of the river opposite Barrio Praias. Boats ferry beach-goers from the shore to the island (R$3, five minutes), where you'll a small restaurant and Sreat swimming. Sundays are especially busy.

find

lI

f

Sleeping & Eating Pousada Pico da

Neblina

PousADAS

(497

99511-1456; Capitao Euclides, Barrio da Praia; s/d R$45/70; BE) Occupying a grand

old mansion with views of S5o Gabriel's best beach, Pico da Neblina is used mostly for long-term rentals but reserves one room for travelers, with air-conditioning and wifi. Breakfast isn't included, but there are

627 several places to eat nearby. The breezy exterior passageways are nice for hanging up a hammock, and the Australian owner arranges excellent tours. Hotel Deus Me Deu HoTEL$ (E 97 3471-1395; Av Presidente Castelo Branco 313; s/d R$70,2120; ts) This family-run hotel has clean rooms in the rear that are basic but perfectly acceptable; some have air-conditioning. The 2nd-floor reception area has a sunny patio with tables and chairs, overlooking the street. La Cave Du

(497

Conde

BRAZ|LIANSS

3471-1738; Brig Eduardo Gomes 444; mains

R$14-48; S7-10:30pm Tue-Sat) The refined menu, bar service and warm rustic ambi ence make this a pleasant surprise in the middle of the Amazon, but the main reason to come is to sample authentic regional and indigenous dishes, including S5o Gabriel's famous ant soup, made from fish, veggies, spices and a handful ofbugs.

$

lnformation

MONEY

Banco do Brasil (Av Presidente Castelo Branco s/n; SSam-lpm Mon-Fri) Bradesco (Av Presidente Castelo Brancoi

S8am-lpm Mon-Fri) POST

Post Office (31 de Margo; &7:3Oam-noon & 1:30-4pm Mon-Fri)

@ Cett:ng There & Away AIR The Aeroporto de S5o Gabriel da Cachoeira (497 3471-1343) is 15km east of town.

MAP (E 97 3471-2244, in Manaus 92-2125-

5000; www-voemap.com.br) has flights between Manaus and 56o Gabriel da Cachoiera on Wednesday and Sunday. BOAT

Both slow boats and speedboats travel along the Rio Negro between Manaus' Porto 56o Raimundo (p617) and 56o Gabriel da Cachoeira. Slow boats leave Manaus for Sio Gabriel (hammock R$390, 72 hours) at 5pm and 6pm on Fridays only. Speedboats leave from the same port on Tuesday and Friday at 3pm (R$450, 24 hours). The return is slightly quicker, with slow boats departing S5o Gabriel Fridays at 8am and 9am on Tuesdays, and speedboats departing Tuesday and Friday at 9am.

Tef6 @oxxst

t

PoP64.000

A gnry, bustling city overlooking a massive lake, Tef6 is best known as the jumping-off point to Reserva de Desenvolvimento Sustentdvel Mamirau6 (Mamiraud Reserve), one of the best ecodestinations in the Amazon. But city leaders are working hard to convince Mamiraud-bound tourists to spend time in

and around town, with options for hiking boating and visiting local villages, including in the newly established Floresta Nacional de Tef6 (FLONA Tef6). A trip to Mamiraua is still the best reason to visit Tef6, but travelers \ilith an extra day or two will find some worthwhile ways to spend them here.

O

sigtrts

Floresta Nacional de (FLONA Tef6)

Tef6

FoREST

Spanning over a 10,000 sq km,

Floresta Nacional de Tef6 can be visited through various communiw-based tours. Most begin v/ith a long boat ride across Tef6 E Iake to small riverside communities within the reserve. Depending on the season, you'll = have a chance to see and learn about essen- N

o

-

tial

activities like farinha (flour) production, a4ai processing, Brazil nut collection --l m and bee-keeping. Hike through the forest to a m\ encounter huge tropical trees and hopefully some monkeys and other wildlife. Encontro das

Aguas

RtvER

(Meeting of the Waters) Tef6 has a small Encontro das Aguas, where an offshoot of the

creamy-brown Solim6es merges

with the

red-black water pouring out of Lago de Tef6. It's an excellent place to spot pink dolphins.

Seminario San

Jos6

ARoH|TECTURE

(Ihe Seminary; Praga Tulio Avev6do) In town, Seminario San Jos6 is a striking structure that occupies the entire northern side of PraCa Thlio Avev6do. It was once a seminary and is now used for cultural and educational events.

lh

f

Steeping

Pousada

(497

Multicultura

pousADAg

99142-5340; www.multiculturatur.com; 15 de Junho 136; s R$8$150, d R$120-200; The

mtr)

IJK-Brazilian couple who took over management of this popular guesthouse are maintaining all its best features - large comfortable roorns, tourist info forvisitors - while making some great additions, including new tours and a restaurant-bar with views of Tef6 lake.

628 Stylo's Hall

Hotel

HorELg

(A97 3343-2337; wwwfacebook.com/styloshall; Rua Duque de Caxias

l0;

s R$90-150, d R$I2GA0)

Wow! Every room here is beautifully decorated in the theme of a different country or city: Paris, Ios Angeles, Israel and so on. Rooms are huge, with firm new beds and spotless bathrooms, and have gorgeous views of the river. It's located within st€ps of the speedboat pier, on the top floor of a shopping center. Egas

(897

Hotel

HorELo

33,13-6299: [email protected]; cnr Ruas Getrilio Vargas & Daniel Senalho; s R$115, d Ir.r8e clean rooms, most R$150-200;

BE)

op€ning onto breezy corridors, and a convenient location near both parks and opposite a bank and internet caJe.

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Restaurante GrSo de Mostarda BRAZILIANg (E 97 3343-3R0; www.hcebook.com/restaurante

In I> != 7D.

epizzariagraodemostarda; Hermes Tupinamba; per kg R$41, mains R$15-36; &llam-midnight Thu-Tue) Terrific per-kilo restaurant, with a breezy open-air dining room on the sec-

area above T ond floor and an air-conditioned it --{ that. Good{ualiry food and service make m popular with locals and visitors alike. Serves R mostly pizza at night.

Restaurante

S$tlo

BRAZILIANS

(Floriano Peixoto 190; mains R$16-43; &10am1lpm Mon-Sat) The most reliable place to

eat in the center, with hefly, well-prepared dishes served at outdoor tables right on the

street corner. The menu includes all the standards, plus a few less common ones, such as

lingua na brasa (Srilled tongue).

RestaurantKi-Papo

sEtF-sERvE,BRAzltlANi

(AvJuru6; per kg R$ ; &[am-3pm) lnw-key per-kilo place with OK food and a fine panoramic view of lag;o de Tbf6. A short walk west of t}le center.

Q lnformation EMERGENCY

Ambulance (8192) Pollce

(8190)

INTERNET ACCESS There's free, reasonably reliable wi-fi in Praqa Tulio Azev6do, across from Banco do Brasil. MEDICAL SERVICES

Hospltal SIo illguel (897 3343'2469; Bexiga) Public hospital. MONEY

Banco do Brasil (Olavo Bilac, at Praga Tulio Azev6do; &9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Centrally located.

THE MAMIRAUA STORY Nearly enclosed by the Solim6es and Japur5 rivers. Mamirau6 is Brazil's largest area of ina unique forest ecosystem defined by sediment-rich seasonal flooding. When the water is high (May to July), there is no exposed ground in the 11.400 sq km reserve. As the water recedes, it can leave behind (or strip away) a meter or more of soil. Huge islands - there are more than 12OO in the reserve - form and disappear seasonally, and a house that's built on 8-foot stilts may be at ground level in just a few years. Trees and plants have

laclvbrzea,

adapted to live for several months underwater, while normally ground-dwelling animals (from insects to jaguars) spend the same period exclusively in the treetops. Mamiraud abuts two extractive reserves to the north and west, and the massive AmanZ Reserve to the east. which in turn borders Ja, National Park (p624). Altogether. they span around 67000 sq km - nearly the size of lreland - and form the second-largest block of protected tropical rainforest in the world. (The largest is also in the Amazon, along the Guyana Shield.) Add in lndian reserves and the Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio

Branco-Jauaperi (p623) on the north bank of the Rio Negro, and the so-called mosaic of protected areas across the Central Amazon is starting to take on epic proportions. Mamirau6 was Brazil's f irst'sustainable development reserve'(there are now more than 20) and is ably managed by the lnstituto Mamirau6 (www.mamiraua.org.br) in Tef6. Sustainable reserves are designed to ensure conServation and scientific research, whlle promoting sustainable practices and employment for the local population, including ecotourism. There are numerous small communities within the MamarauA Reserve whose residents work part-time as tour guides, cooks, boat drivers, research assistants and nature wardens without abandoning traditional work such as fishing, planting and hunting Management of the reserve and its primary lodge is due to revert to local controlin2022. (Continued on page 637)

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AmazonWildlife A huge variety of animals call the Amazon home: piranha and pink dolphins ply the waters, macaws fill the air in squawking flight, squirrel monkeys dart

Contents

through the trees, and tarantulas and poison dart frogs lurk in the underbrush. The lush rainforest and murky water can make spotting animals quite hard, but all the more rewarding when you do.

.) Birds a Aquatic

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Land Mammals Animals

Reptiles, lnsects & Amphibians Above Harpy eagle (p633)

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Jaguax The Americas'largest cat, though Amazonian jaguars are smaller than those elsewhere. During the wet season, they can live for months entirely in the treetops, munching mainly on sloths. Where to see: Mamirau4 FLONA Tapaj6s, Upper Rio Negro

Margay Small cat that's a master climber, with paws that can rotate 180 degrees.

I 1,.

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Where to see: MamirauS, Upper Rio Negro Three-Toed Sloth A fairly common sight, sloths (or pregz&a in Portuguese) are a favorite prey ofjaguars and harpy eagles. Where to see: throughout the Amazon

r

Squirrel Monkey Aptly named, squirrel monkeys are tiny and agile, living in clans numbering into the hundreds. Where to see: throughout the Amazon Capuchin Monkey Early explorers thought this small monkey's brown fur looked like the hooded cape of Capuchin friars. Where to see: throughout the

I

Amazon

IH

J'

Howler Monkey The male howler's deathly cry can be heard for miles, though spotting the brown or black treedwellers can be tough. Where to

see:

Mamirauii, around Manaus

Coati Related to raccoons and similarly

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clever, coati have long tails and long, sensitive noses, which they use to forage for insects, lizards and other small prey. Where to see: throughout the Amazon

--,

Giant Anteater Distantly related to

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sloths, Amazonian giant anteaters are skilled climbers, a trait useful for feeding on insect nests built in tree trunks. Where to see: throughout the Amazon, but difficult to spot

Brazilian Tapir Up to a meter tall and weighing over 200kg, tapirs are a prized but challenging prey for jaguars, caiman, even anaconda, and of course humans. Where to see: throughout the Amazon, but difficult to spot Spider Monkey The largest and most intelligent of Amazon monkeys, spider monkeys are also among the most sensitive to human intrusion. Where to see: primary forest areas

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Rio Branco @Top Sights

1 Mercado Ve1ho.................................... C3

O Sights 2 Memorial dos Autonomistas.............. C2 3 Museuda Borracha.............................C1

4

Palacio Rio Branco..............................

C2

@Sleeping

5 Holiday lnn Express.............................

B1

6

B2

Hotel do Papai

7 Hotel Guapindaia Praqa

8

Business............................................ 81 Nobile suites Gran Lumni ..............-.... A1

AFA Bistr6

DAmazonia

82 10 Churrascaria TriSngulo ...................... 82 Mercado Ve1ho.............................. (see i) D'Am a^dnia......................

O Entertainment Mercado Ve1ho..............................(see

1)

BUFFET6S

(Ribeiro 99: per kg R$65 Mon-Fri, R$82 Sat & Sun;

&llam-2:30pm) An unassuming exterior belies a fancy-pants bistro that's town's favorit€ lunch spot The city's professional classes pack in for fresh (albeit pricey) salad combinations, tender meat and fish dishes, and irresistible desserts. Sundays feature fT utqs do mar.

Churrascaria

EEating

9 AFA Bistr6

order anything from grilled comfort food to complete entrees, served at indoor booths or at tables overlooking a tidy riverfront plaza. Especially popular in the evenings, when there's live music.

(QB 7fl:

Tri6ngulo

3224$265: Hotel

per

lg

BRAzlLlANss

Triangulo, Fbriano Peixoto

R$tt3, rod2io from R$50; 911am-3pm

daily, 7-10pm Mon-Sat)

The ambience here is

Iacking, but if youre famished and in the mood for meag you're sure to leave satisfied. The rodtzi,o (all-you-can+at buffet) is especial]y fil]ing.

6s5

fr

entertainment Mercado Velho

GOL LlvE

Mustc

(Praea Bandeira; & 5-11pm) Many of the eating options in this attractive riverfront market have evening and nighttime service, from cool beers to full meals. It's a popular and pleasant place to while away a few hours, listening to music (there's usually at least one singer or guitarist) and contemplating the pedestrian bridge, bathed in a hypnotic blue light.

S

Information

EMERGENCY

Police

(8190; Epaminondas J5come)

MEDICAL SERVICES Hospital Geral (Emergency Room; 868 3223-3080, 192; cnr Av Nag6es Unidos & Hugo Carneiro) Has an emergency room. MONEY

Banco do Brasi! (Porta Leal 85; 89am-3pm Mon-Fri) ln the city center. Bradesco (Porta Leal 83; 89am-3pm Mon-Fri) Has an ATM. POST

Post Office (Epaminondas J6come 447; 87am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) TOURIST INFORMATION CAT (Centro de Atendimento ao Turista; Praga Povos da Floresta; & 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9amnoon Sun) Not terribly helpful, but a good place to start. TRAVEL AGENCIES

(468 9238-9495; AFA Hotel, Ribeiro 109; 88am-5pm Mon-Fri) Local tour operator offering guided excursions of all sorts, including bike tours in Xapuri and visits to the Yawanaw6 indigenous community and Serra do Divisor National Park. Has an info desk in the lobby of the AFA Hotel. Discovery Vlagens

@ Oetting There & Away Paved roads connect Rio Branco with Porto Velho and Brasil6ia, but people generally fly. Most of Acre's roads are unpaved, and can be difficult or impassable during the rainy season, usually 0ctober to May (ie most of the year).

(468

3211-1070, 0800-704-0465; www.

voegol.com.br) Three daily flights tolfrom Brasilia, and one tolfrom Porto Velho. LATAM (468 3211-1092, 68 4002-5700: www. latam.com) Two daily flights to/from Brasilia, with extensive onward connections. BOAT The Rio Acre is navigable all the way to the Peruvian border at Assis Brasil but there's little river traf-

fic (and none that follows a schedule). Headed the other direction, it s possible to catch a boat down the Rio Purus from the town of Boca do Acre, north of Rio Branco, theoretically all the way to Manaus. Thatsaid, if Manaus isyour destination, there'sa much more frequent and reliable boat service on the Rio Madeira, leaving from Porto Velho. BUS

Long-distance buses leave lrom the Rodoviiiria lnternacional de Rio Branco (E 68 3221-3693: Hwy BR-364, Km 125), a sleek new bus terminal 8km southwest of town. Petroaoe (A6832211452) has services to Xapuri (R$38, 3Vz hours, 6am and 1:45pm), Brasi16ia (R$48, four hours, 6am, noon and 2:45pm), Assis Brasil (R$60, six hours,6am and noon) and Cruzeiro do Sol ($128,12 to 14 hours, T:l5am and 7:30pm). Eucatur (Z 68 3233-3741; www.eucatur.com. br) and Viagio Ronddnaa (A68 3224-4293) have three to four departures daily to Porto Velho (R$115, nine to ten hours) usually once in the morning and the rest nonstop overnighters. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Highway BR-364 is paved and well maintained between Rio Branco and Porto Velho, and as far as Sena Madureira, l70km west of Rio Branco. Likewise, the road from Rio Branco to Brasil6ia (235km) and Assis Brasil on the Peruvian border is also paved.

@ Cetting Around At Rio Branco's bustling Terminal Urbano (City Bus Terminal; Sergipe, btwn Av CearA & Beniamin Constant) you pay your fare at a bank of turnstiles and buses come and go from clearly marked platforms. At least three different city buses run between the downtown terminal and the Rodovi6ria Internacional; they are marked

either'Norte-Sul,"Parque lndustrial' or Jacarand6' (R$3.50, 20 to 30 minutes, every 15 minutes). A taxi to or from the city center costs R$40, a moto-taxi R$20.

AIR The small Aeroporto de Rio Branco

(E 68

32ll-1000; www4.inf raero.gov.brlaeroportos/ aeroporto-de-rio-branco-placido-de-castro; Av Pl6cido de CastrQ is 22km northwest oftown on Hwy BR-364.

Xapuri Eoxxoa z PoP1l.670 This little town ofneatwooden houses along broad streets is one of the more spots in the Brazilian Amazon. It was home to

E ln

=

o

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656

CHICO MENDES & HIS LEGACY ln the mid-1970s an ambitious military-government plan to tame the Amazon attracted a tlood of developers, ranchers, logging companies and settlers into Acre. who clear-cut

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rubber and Brazil trees to make room for ranches. Francisco Alves Mendes Filho, better known as Chico Mendes, was a 3o-something rubber-tapper, but one of the few who could read and write, and had long taken an interest in improving the lives of fellow seringueiros (rubber-tappers).ln1977, he cofounded the Sindicato dos Trabalhadores Rurais de Xapuri (Xapuri RuralWorkers'Union) to defy the violent intimadation and dispossession practiced by the newcomers. Mendes organized empates (stoppages), nonvlolent human blockades to stop the clear-cutting. But Mendes was not initially an environmentalist - his motivation was to help rubber-tappers, whose livelihood happened to depend on a healthy, intact forest. Likewise, the environmental movement (largely based in the US at the time) was focused on preserving'vargin'forest, which it assumed to be empty of humans save for a few indigenous tribes. The joining of those groups - rubber-tappers and American environmentalists - was one of Mendes'key accomplishments. He convinced rubber-tappers to see themselves as stewards of the forest and allies of indigenous peoples. And he helped conceive of'extractive reservesl to this day an important means of protecting land and people there. He won numerous international awards in the process, including election to the UN Environment Organization's Global 500 Honor Roll in 1987 Mendes'fame abroad made life increasingly dangerous at home. Killings of rural workers and activists, including priests and lawyers, jumped from single digits in the 1960s, to over a hundred in 1980, to nearly 500 between 1985 and 1987, according to Amnesty lnternational. ln December 19BB Mendes moved to establish his birthplace, Seringal Cachoeira, as an extractive reserve, defying a local rancher and strongman, Darly Alves da Silva, who claimed the land. Mendes had already denounced Silva to the police for threatening his life and for the murder of a union representative earlier that year. Mendes received numerous death threats, but resisted the urging of colleagues to flee Acre state. On December 22, 1988, Mendes stepped onto the back porch of his home in Xapuri and was shot at close range by men hiding in the bushes. He staggered into the house, where his wife and children were watching TV, and bled to death. Mendes' murder was the first of hundreds to be thoroughly investigated and prosecuted, owing to the massive international reaction to his killing. Darly Alves da Silva and his son Darci Pereira da Silva were sentenced to 19 years in prison for ordering and committing the crime. Both da Silvas escaped from jail in 1993, apparently just walking free, suggesting complicity among the guards, but were recaptured in 1996, after another outcry, and returned to jail. The men completed their sentences in 2009; Darci reportedly lives in the Pantanal region, but Darly has remained in the area, and can be seen around Xapuri to this day. Mendes' life and death brought unprecedented international attention to the environmental crasis in the Amazon - read Andrew Revkin's excellent The Burning Season (1990) for a fine overview of Mendes'life and death. But activism on behalf of the forest and people who live there remains a dangerous undertaking. On February 12, 2005, a US-born nun named Dorothy Stang was gunned down in the small town of Anapri, in the soy and cattle country of Para state, by two men reportedly acting on the orders of rancher Vitalmiro Bastos de Moura, who Stang had accused of illegally clearing land. The gunmen were quickly caught and convicted, but holding Bastos de Moura accountable has proved difiicult. He was sentenced to 30 years in prison three times, and all three times his conviction was overturned and he was released. A second rancher was convicted of the crime in 2010, but released in 2012. Bastos de Moura was re-tried and re-convicted in 2013, and is in prison again - for now. The prospects of finding justice for scores of other murder vtctims, whose deaths will never attract the international attention that Mendes'and Stang's did, are decidedly bleak.

657 environmental and labor hero Chico Mendes, andthereinlies its primaryappeal, with amuseum, Mendes'former house and some of the region's best places to base yourself.

@

sigtrts & Activities *C".uChicoMendes HrsroRtcBUILDING (Batista de Moraes 494; 08:30am-430pm TueFri, 9am-1pm Sat) EEB This simple wood house

is where Chico Mendes lived with his family until his murder on the back steps in 1988.

Tours include a graphic description of the moment he was shot, with bloodstains still on the walls. Across the street, the Chico Mendes Foundation center has post€r-sized photos of Mendes and a collection of personal items and intemational awards.

Museu do

Xapuri

MUSEUM

(C BrandSo; &8:30am-5:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-lpm Sun) EEB This small but intriguing museum tells how Xapuri, located at the confluence of two rivers, lvas once a major transport hub for rubber, nuts, wood and other products, and a favorite of Middle Eastern merchants peddling everything from shovels to perfume. It's housed in an attractive mansion that served as the city haJl from 1929 io 2OOO.

* Pousada Ecol5gica Seringal Cachoeira EcoTouR (A8 99943-4747; www.tucebook.com/seringal cachoeira; per person R$50-100) Various guided hikes are available at this comfortable lodge, 32km from Xapuri. One hike leaves at 4am for a fascinating real-life look at how workers collect latex and Brazil nuts, with good opportunities to spot wildlife (primarity birds) too. There's also tree-climbing and a canopy tour, with 500m ofrope bridges and zip lines. Open to guests and nonguests; reserve alead.

l*

Steeping

frPousada Ecol6gica Seringal

(A8

Cachoeira

W43-4747;

LoDGES

Pousada das

(48

Chapurys

pousADAS

3il2-?253;

www.facebook.com/pouvda chapurys; Sadala Koury 1385; s,zdltr R$80/120l150;

E 6) A short walk from the bus terminal, this is the old standby of Xapuri's hotels, and still a pleasant and convenient place to stay. The owners were close friends of Chico Mendes,

and have fascinating stories, photos and memorabilia in the hotel's dining area- Rooms are large and comfortable but dated.

)(

erting

Pizzaria Tribos (E 68312-2531; C BnnMo;

ptzzAg

& dinner) One of a handful of kiosks in a small park a block offthe main plaz4 Ttibos serves deliCious pizza-s at small outdoor tables and gets kudos for playing a good mix ofrock. mains R$18-38:

($ lnformation MONEY B-anco daAmazona (C Bradio; Mon-Fri) Next to the gas

TOURIST

= f, &9am-3pm

station. INFORMATION

cachoeira; dm R$75, d R$150, all incl breakfast;

B)

comfortable stand-alone 'chaletsl while

meals Qunch and dinner Rg30) are served in the spacious main building. Itb 32km north of Xapuri where Chico Mendes first tapped rubber trees and collected Brazil nuts.

On Hwy BR-3fZ look for a turnoff ilkm south of the Xapuri junction; from there it's

= =

O

& this = 6 = mation, but does have amiable attendants and ; a handy brochure about Xapuri.

Tourist tnlormatlon Kiosk ($7am-noon 2-5pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the bus station, place has more handicrafts than tourist infor-

@ Cetting There & Away Xapuri lies about 12km northwest of Hwy BR-317, the main road between Rio Branco (247kmaway) and Brasi16ia (74km away). Pekoacre (p655) has a bus service from Xapuri to Rio Branco (R$38,3% hours,6am and 1:45pm). There's only one bus from Xapuri to Brasil6ia (R$15, two hours) departing at 10am. Alternatively, you can catch a cab to the trocamento (junction) on Hwy BR-317 (R$18) and catch a passlng Rio Branco or Brasil6ia bus there.

www.facebook.com/seringal

This ecolodge is set in a working rubber forest and has mzy accommodations plus guided hikes and activities. Iofuing is in large dorms

or

another l6km by well-maintained dirt road to the lodge. A taxi from Xapuri costs RgI20.

Brasil6ia Eoxxos z

PoP23.4oo

The border town of Brasil6ia is separated from Cobij4 Bolivia by the meandering Rio Acre and Igarape Bahia^ There's precious little to do here, unless you're in the maxket for a computer or DVD player - for that, you can

join the crowds crossing into Cobija to take ofthe lower prices and a duty-ftee border. Otherwise, itb simply a way station for those passing through.

='

658 BORDER CROSSINGS To^/From Peru Access to Peru is through the village of Assis Brasil, 110km west of Brasil6ia. Once an adventure route, the road is now paved and has daily bus services. complete Brazilian immigration procedures in Brasil6ia, and Peruvian immigration at the border town of lilapari.

TolFrom Cobiia, Bolivia You are free to cross back and forth between Cobija and Brasil6ia without passing through immigration, provided you're going for a short period. lf you plan to continue inland, or stay longer than a couple of days, you ought to clear lmmigration officially. A bridge over the lgarap6 Bahia connects Epitaciol2ndia to cobiJa, and is the official border crossing. with immigration offices for both countries nearby. A smaller, more convenient just bridge spans the Rio Acre, making it possible to walk from one downtown to the other in a few minutes. The smaller bridge - which is dedicated to wilson Pinheiro, a rubber-tapper union president and friend of chico Mendes who was assassinated in July 1980 - is at the end of Av Prefeito R lvloriera; there is a customs post there. but no immigration ofiicers.

Bolivian immigration ([2546-5760: Plaza General Germ5n Busch, Cobiia; Q9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri) faces cobija's main plaza. There's also a checkpoint on the main anternational bridge, which is open round the clock. ln Brazil, the Policia Federal (p658) handle immigration procedures; the office is in Epitaciolandia, just across the marn international bridge. in Cobija, the Brazilian consulate (8842-2110; Av Chelio Luna Pizano, Cobila; S8:30am' 12:30pm Mon-Fri) is a half-block from the main plaza, on Av General Rene Barrientos, next to

I{ IIFr I> I,D.

the Banco Mercantil de Bolivia.

lE T

Sleeping & Eating

Pousada Las

Palmeras

@

(D68 3546-3302;

a

Assis; s/d R$60/80;

a

EMERGENCY PousADAs

www.facebook.com/pousada laspalmeras.brasileia; Odilon Pratagi 125, at Geny

E 6) Brasil6ia's most appealing hotel also has to be its unluckiest -

3 itt been flooded several times when the

Rio Acre tops its banks, including in March 2015. The hardworking owner has rebuilt ea.ch time, and so las Pa]meras is open once again, \vith narrow singles and spacious doubles, all with air-con, TV, minibar and hot wat€r.

Saborella

BRAZILIANS

(Odilon Pratagi s/n; mains R$l$36; &11am-3pmdaily, 5-l0pmTue-Sun) Daily specials make ordering easy at this small r€staurant, one of few genu-

inely aSreeable places in town. Incated half a blocl< from the bus station, youll find all the Brazilian staples, with rice, beans andburyers in abundance.

Q

tnformation

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Bolivlan Consulate (D68 3546'5760; Hildrio Meireles 236; 98am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) BrazilSan Gonsulate (Av lsmael Montes, Cobiia; 98am-lpm Mon-Fri) Across the border in Cobiia.

Police (E 68 3546-3207, 190: Av Prefeito R Moreira No 456; *24h0 Policia Federal (068 3546-3204; &8am-7pm) MONEY Banco do Brasil (Av Prefeito R Moreira 470; O9am-3pm Mon-Fri) Also has an ATM. POST

Post Office (Av Prefeito R Moreira; noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri)

I

8am-

@ Cetting There & Away The bus station is 500m from most of the hotels and the main commercial strip; a taxi in either direction costs R$10. Petroacre has daily de-

partures to Rio Branco (R$35, four hours) plus services to Xapuri (R$15, two hours) and Assis Brasil (R$15, two hours). You can usually catch a collective taxi to any of these, which are pricier but much quicker.

O cetting

Around

Hwy BR-317 from Rio Branco approaches Brasil6ia from the southeast, through the adiacent but independent town of Epitaciolindia. The Brasil6ia bus station isiust across a small bridge; from there it's a 500m walk (or R$10 taxi ride) to the center oftown. lfyou do walk, bear right out of the bus terminal, and follow Rua Odilon Pratagi to Av Prefeito R Moreira, which roughly approximates to the town center.

Understand Blrazil BRAZTLTODAY

........660

Brazil faces many challenges, including political corruption, economic woes and the rise of far-right demagogues.

HISTORY.

662

Portuguese royals, repressive military dictatorships and socially minded visionaries have all shaped Brazil's complicated past.

LIFEtNBRAZ|L.

.......614

A portrait of Brazil's cultural diversity, its divergent lifestyle and

social challenges of today.

BRAZILIAN

RHYTHMS

........677

The Brazilian soundtrack includes samba, bossa nova, Mtirsica Popular Brasileira (MPB),tropicdlia, hip-hop and rock.

FOOTBALL.

,...82

A look at Brazil's extraordinary footballing legacy.

CINEMA& LITERATURE

685

lconic movies and novels by Brazil's top filmmakers and writers.

ARCHITECTURE.....

.........687

Home to baroque churches and modernist masterpieces, Brazil has some surprising architectural treasures.

THENATURATWORLD ........690 An overview of Brazil's rich ecosystems and its incredible plant and animal life.

660

Brazil

Today

Brazit has suffered through hard times in recent years, A huge corruption scandal has caused the impeachment of the nation's first fumale president, sent numerous business teaders and politicians to jai! (including former president Lula), and left deep scars on the economy. There are rays of hope, however, with Brazil's worst rccession finally behind them, and continued innestments in a greener, more sustainable futut€.

Begt on Film

AFatefoIElection

Tropa de Elite (Elite Squad: 2007) An action film of crime and corruption as an elite police squad and drug lords clash. Don't miss the sequel (The

In 2018 Brazilians went to the polls to vote in a presidential election that was unlike any in the past. TWo years prior, their previous incumbent, Dilma Rousseff,

Enemy Within).

ident to be impeached and removed from

Cenkal do Brasil (Cenkal Station;

Meanwhile, Rousseff's predecessor and Workers' Party foundeq Luiz In6cio Lula da Silva was only a few months into his l2-year prison sentence. Despite the charges - money laundering and passive corruption he remained extremely popular with Brazilians. He even attempted to run for president that year. His efforts, however, were thwarted when the Superior Electoral Court barred him from running. Anger against the ruling political class led to the rise of fax-right demagogues like Jair Bolsonaro (often described as the Brazilian Donald Tlump). A former military officer, Bolsonaro praised strong-arm rulers like Augusto Pinochet and promised to bring law and order back to Brazil. His fiery rhetoric earned him many enemies, and he was stabbed during a campaign rally in Minas Gerais. The wound, however, didn't stop Bolsonaro, who won the election and promised a hardJine agenda in the months ahead. The tack to the far right was the most radical political change since Brazil's restoration of democracy in the l980s.

1998) Walter Salles' moving tale of a homeless boy and an older woman on a road trip across Brazil. Reachlng for the Moon (2013) Tragic love story between an American poet and Brazilian architect, set in 1950s Petr6polis.

Bel Borta Aqui (2012) Colorful documentary of an artist who uses Salvador as his canvas. Ao Som As Redor (Neighboring Sounds; 2012) Critically acclaimed film dealing with the wealthy and the underclass in Recife.

Best in Print Brazil on the Rise (Larry Rohter: 2010) lnsightful portrait of the politics, culture and challenges of the South American nation. The Lost City of Z (David Grann; 2009) Gripping journey into the Amazon to retrace the steps of lost explorer Colonel Fawcett. D,eath in Bnzil (Peter Robb; 2005) Well-written travelogue that delves into history, culture and corruption.

had become Brazil's first democratically elected presoffice.

Ileep-Rooted Corruption If there's one central theme made shockingXy clear in the most recent election cycle, it's the pervasive level of corruption plaguing Brazilian politics. Even a people accustomed to this endemic problem were shocked at the vast size of the scandals that have rocked the country in the last few years. The magnitude of the scandal exposed by Opera46o Lava Jata (Operation Car Wash), which first came to liSht in 20lrl, bogSles the imaSination. This

661 colossal kickback scheme was tied to petrobras, Brazil's state-run oil company, as well as Odebrecht, the massive multinational construction firm headquartered in Brazil. The money laundering involved more than US$5 billion in bribes, and led to the convictions of over 200 of the countr/s top executives and politicians - including former president Lula and Rio state governor Sergio Cabral.

POPULATION: 2O8 MILLION GDP: $3.2 TRILLION INFLATION: 4.6016

UNEMPLOYMENT:'12%

EconomicWoes ANNUAL FOREIGN TOURISTS: 6.6 MILLION

The repercussions from the scandal have sent shockwaves rippling through the county, and beyond, with at least 10 other countries involved. Brazil was already reeling from a crippling recession (in part brought on by overspending on the 2Ol4 World Cup and 2016 Olympics), and the scandal only made things worse

-

ifBrazil were

undermining investor confidence and leading to

lOOpeople

mass layoffs by the scandal-plazued industries. The

economy contracted by more than 3.5o/o in both 2Ol5 and 2016 - its longest recession in history. As unemployment surged and the currency collapsed, the number of Brazilians living in poverty grew by a whopping 33o/o (an estimated six million people fell below the poverty line between 2014, and 2018). With prices rising and wages falling, workers have taken to the streets in mass prot€sts; in 2018 one trucker strike left the country paralyzed for nearly two weeks. Huge budget cuts to schools, hospitals and other public institutions have also had devastating effects; a raging fire destroyed most of the collection inside Brazil,s National History Museum, a 2o0-year-old icon that housed some of the most important archeological collections in South America.

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The good news is that a"fter three years of crisis, Brazil's economy was flnally climbing out of the red by late 2018. Business investment was on the rise as the political scandal (somewhat) subsided, and production rose significantly across many sectors (agriculture, electronics and the automotive sectors, among

@ Protestant

Roman

Catholic

them). Meanwhile, Brazil has continued to invest

in renewable energy, and today sustainable sources meet more lhan 7oo/o of Brazil's energy needs (some months reaching above a whopping 86% of Brazil,s domestically produced electricity). Recent years have seen the opening of massive solar farms - including two in 2017 that axe among the largest on the continent. Wind power has also grown in leaps and bounds, with installed capacity of 13.1 MW in 2Ol8 - a 357o increase fromjust three years prior. That said, oil production remains a huge part ofthe Brazilian economy, and finding the balance between green energy and petroleum will be one of the hot political topics in the yeaxs ahead - along with the challenge of preserving Brazilh natural environment (particularly the Amazon) amid relentless economic pressures, driven in part by the agriculture lobby.

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662

History

Brazil's population, the fifth biggest in the world, reached its lands from Africa, Asia. Europe and other parts of the Americas - diverse origins that ha\re created one of the planet's most racially mixed societies. How they came, intermingled and developed the unique Brazilian identity that charms visitors today is a rough-and-tumble story of courage, greed, endurance and crueltlr, eventually yielding a fitful progress toward the democracy the country now enioYs.

Before the Portuguese

History Books

Brazil: Five Centuries ot Change (2009), Thomas E Skidmore The History of Brazil (1999), Robed Levine AConcise Histw of Brazil (1999), Boris Fausto

It's generally believed that the early inhabitants of the Americas arrived from Siberia in waves between about l2,0OO and 8000 BC, crossing land now submerged beneath the Bering Strai! then Sradually spreading southward over many millennia- Some scholars, however, believe that humans arrived much earlier (25,000 to 35,0OO BC) in gxoups that trave-

ledbyboat across the Pacific. Researchers in the remote Serra da Capivara in the Northeastern state of Piaui have found some of Brazil's earliest evidence of human presence. The oldest traces of human life in the Amazon region can be seen on a detour from a river trip between Santar€m and Bel6m: a series of rock paintings estimated to be I2,00O years old near Monte Alegpe. By the time the Portuguese arrived, there were probably between two and four million people, speaking an estimated 1000 languages,

in what's now Brazil.

Gabral & Ghums

The course of Brazilian history was changed forever in 150O, when a fleet of 12 Portuguese ships carrying nearly 1200 men rolled up near what is todry Porto Seguro. When they arrived, their indigenous reception committee was readY and waiting. In a letter back to the Portuguese king, scribe Pero Vaz de Caminha described a group of around two dozen men who were brown-skinned, not wearing any clothes and carrying bows and arrows.

TIMELINE

c12

BC

AD1500

1549

ol

Pedro Alvares Cabral makes landfall around present-day Porto Seguro and claims pos-

Tomd de Sousa is named Brazil's first governor. He

Early inhabitants

the Americasarrive from Siberia in waves from 12,000 to 8000 BC, crossing land now submerged beneath the Bering Strait, then gradually spreading southward over many millennia.

session ol the land

-

believed at first to be an island

- forthe

Portuguese crown.

centralizes authority and founds the city of Salvador, which will

remain Brazil's caPital for more than two centuries.

663 The festivities didn't last long. Having erected a cross and hetd Mass in the land they baptized Terra da Vera Cruz (l,and of the Tlue Cross), the Portuguese took to the waves once again. With ]ucrative spice, ivory and diamond markets in Asia and Africa to exploit, portugal had bigger fish to fry elsewhere. It wasn:t till I53l that the first portuguese settlers arrived in Brazil.

Brazil's lndigenous People For Brazil's indigenous people, April 22, LSOO, marked the first chapter in their gradual extermination. Sixteenth-century European explorers along the Amazon encountered large, widespread populations; some were practicing agliculture while others were nomadic huntergatherers. Coastal peoples fell into three main gToups: the Guarani (south of 56o Paulo and in the Paraguai and Paran6 basins inland), the Tirpi or Thpinamb6 (along most of the rest of the coast) and the Thpuia (peoples inhabiting shorter stretches of coast in among the Ttrpi and Guarani). The Thpi and Guarani had much in common in language and culture. A European adaptation of the Tupi-Guarani language later spread throughout colonial Brazil and is still spoken by some people in

got its name because the Portuguese

Rio de Janeiro

arrived in January (Janeiro),1502, and thought that Guanabara Bay on which it lies was the mouth of a rio (river)-

-

Over the following centuries a four-front war

-

cultural, physical,

Many indigenous fell victim Xo the band,eiraTzres - groups of roaming raiders who spent the 17th and ISth centuries exploring Brazil,s interior, pillaging indigenous settlements as they went. Those who escaped such a fate were struck down by the illnesses shipped in from Europe, to which they had no natural resistance. Others were worked to death on sugar plantations.

r: a o = c) r

m

o T

-r

by Scott Wallace, provides a Iascinating glimpse of one of the Amazon s mysterious and

-

little-known peoples.

r550

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l65Os

r695

Facing a shortage of labor (as indigenous

The Dutch West India Company sets up shop

Communitiesof

Palmares, the largest quilombo in Brazil's

slaves die from intro-

in Northeastern Brazil,

duced European diseases), Portugal turns to the African slavetrade;

heralding the beginning ofthe Dutch presence in Brazil. lts goal: to

the counkyside, eventually becoming targets of

open-airslave markets spread across the slowly growing colony.

wrest control ofthe colony from Portugal.

of these communities will later become towns following abolition in the late 1800s.

N

T

-

(20i1), written

banderlantes. Hundreds

u

(,

The Unconquered

runaway slaves, called guilombog flourish in

@

z.

Sugar & Slavery

Brazil didnt boast the ivory and spices of Africa and the East Indies, and the only thing that had interested the Portuguese in the early years after they had found it was a rock-hard tree known x pau brazil granlwood), which yielded a valuable red dye. Merchants began sending a few ships each year to harvest brazilwood and take it back to Europe, and the colony changed its name to Brazil in tribute to the tree. Alas, the most accessible trees were rapidly depleted. But after colonization in 1531, the colonists soon worked out that Brazil was a place where sugarcane grew well. Sugar came to Brazil in 7532 and, hasn t Ieft since. It was coveted by a hungry European market, which used it for medicinal purposes, to flavor foods and even in wine.

-

C

Amaeonia.

territorial and biological - was waged on the indigenous way of life.

o o

Northeast - and home to more than 20,000 inhabitants - is destroyed following decades of attacks by Portuguese troops.

664

Il'eSlaveTrade one o, Brazil's great folk heroes is Chico Rei. an African king enslaved and brought to work in the mines, but who managed to buy his treedom and later the freedom ol his

-

tribe.

- BRAZIL'S

African slaves started to pour into Brazil's slave markets from about 1550. They were torn from a variety of tribes in Angol4 Mozambique and Guinea as well as the Sudan and Congo. Whatever their origins and cultures, their destinations were identical: slave markets such as Salvador's Pelourinho or Bel6m's Mercado Ver-o-Peso. By the time slavery was abolished in Brazil in 1888, around 3.6 million Africans had been shipped to Brazil - nearly 4070 of the total that came to the New World. A.fricans were seen as better workers and less susceptible to the European diseases that had proved the undoing of so many indigenous people. In short, they were a better investment. Yet the Portuguese didn't go out of their way to protect this investment. Slaves were brought to Brazil in subhuman conditions: taken from their families and packed into squalid ships for the monthlong journey to Brazil.

!NDIGENOUS PEOPLE TODAY

When the Portuguese arrived in 1500, there were, by the most common estimates, between two and four million indigenous people already living in Braztl, in over 1000 different tribes. Five centuries later there are an estimated 900,000 indigenous left, living in a lit|e over 2OO tribes. Slavery, disease, armed conflict and loss of territory all took a savage toll on Brazil's native peoples, to the point where in the 1980s indigenous numbers were under 30O.0OO and it was feared they might die out completely. Since then there has been a marked recovery in the indigenous population, partly thanks to international concern about groups such as the Yanomami, who were threatened with extermination by disease and violence from an influx of gold prospectors into their lands. Government policy has become more benign and huge areas of Brazil are now Terra lndigena (lndigenous Land). Just over l million sq km - more than 12olo of the whole country - is now either officially registered as lndigenous Land or in the process of registration There are those who think that 12olo of national territory reserved for O.25o/o of the national population is too much and fail to respect indigenous rights to these lands Disputes between indigenous groups and loggers, miners. homesteaders, hunters, road builders and reservoir constructors are strll common, and sometimes violent. It's thought there may still be more than 60 uncontacted tribes, mostly small groups in the Amazon forests - home to about 6Oolo of Brazil's indigenous (and almost all of the

existing lndigenous Lands). Most of Brazil's indtgenous still live traditional lifestyles, hunting (some still with blowpipes and poisoned arrows) and gathering and growing plants for food, medicine and utensilS. Their homes are usually made of natural materials such aS wood or grass. Ritual activity is strong, body- and face-painting is prevalent, and most indigenous people are skilled in making pottery, basketry, masks, headdresses, musical instruments and other artisanry with their hands.

r696 News

ofthe discovery ofgold in Brazil

reaches Lisbon. ln ensuing years, tens of thousands of migrants stream into presentday Minas Gerais, Mato Grosso, Goi6s and southern Bahia.

1750

l75Os

1763

The Spanish concede to the Portuguese the Treaty of Madrid, which hands over 6 million sq

Gold (and later diamonds) begin to define

km tothe Portuguese and puts Brazil's

population explodes from 30,000 in 1710 to 500,000 by the end of

With gold flowing from Minas Gerais through Rio de Janeiro, the city grows in wealth and population; the Portu-

western borders largely where they are today.

the colonial economy. ln Minas Gerais the

the centurY.

guese court transfers the capital of Brazil

from Salvadorto Rio.

665

Masters&Slaves For those who survived the ordeal of the joumey, arrival in Brazil meant only continued suffering. A slave's existence was one of brutality and humiliation. Kind masters were the exception, not the rule, and labor on the plantations was relentless. Slaves were required to work as many as 17 hours each day, before retiring to th e squilid sewala(slave quarters), and with as many as 200 slaves packed into each dwelling, hygiene was a concept as remote as the distant coasts ofAfrica Dysentery tlphus, yellow feve! malari4 tuberculosis and scurvy were rife; malnutrition a fact oflife. Syphilis also plagued a slave population sexually exploited by its masters. The sexual exploitation of slaves by white colonists was so common that a large mixed-race population soon emerBed. Off the plantations there was a shortage of white women, so many poorer white colonists lived with black or indigenous women.

Gilberto Freyre's The Masters and the S/aves (1933), a book about the relationship between slaves and masters on Pernambuco's sugar plantations, revolutionized Brazilian thinking about the Alrican

-

contribution to Brazilian society.

downs, stoppages and revolts. Other slaves sought solace in African religion and culture. The mix of Catholicism (made compulsory by slave masters) and African tra.ditions spawned a syncretic religion on the sugar plantations, known today as Candombl6. The slaves masked illegal customs with a facade of Catholic saints and ritua"ls.The martial art capoeira also grew out ofthe slave communities. Enslaved peoples also built their own churches. places like the Igreja NS do Ros6rio dos Pretos in Salvador served as the epicenter

r

@ eo --{

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a

o

-a

r-I Quilombo (1984), directed by Caci Diegues, is an epic history flick in which the vast Palmares quilombo - a

community of runaway slaves led by the legendary Zumbi - is reconstructed in Rio's Baixada Fluminense.

The Bandeirantes & the Gold Rush

-t

r789

r807

t8t5

t822

The first organized

Napoleon invades Portugal and the Portuguese prince regent (later known as

Dom Joio Vl declares Rio the capital ofthe United Kingdom of Por-

Left in charge of Brazil after his father Dom JoSo Vl returns to Portugal, the prince regent

Mineira to overthrow the Portuguese. The plot fails, however, and Tiradentes is executed.

Dom Jo6o Vl) and his

entire court of 15,000 flee for Brazil. The royal coffers shower wealth upon Rio.

tugal and Brazil. The same year, a mounting

financial crisis forces the king to return to Portugal.

@

z--l

-

The bandzirantes, too, were keen to make inroads into Brazil. These bands of raiders roamed Brazil's interior in search of indigenous slaves, mapping out territory and bumping off the odd indigenous community

movementtoward

I

o m

stroyed by federal troops. As abolitionist sentiment grew in the lgth century many (unsuccessful) slave rebellions were staged, the quitnmbos received more support and ever-greater numbers of slaves fled the plantations. Only abolition itsell in 1888, stoppd the growth of quilombos.

independence springs to life. Tiradentesand l1 other conspirators organize the lnconfidoncia

-r \

for their communities. Many slaves escaped from their masters Io form quitnmbos, communities of runaway slaves that quickly spread across the countryside. The most famous, the Republic of Palmares, which survived through much of the lTth century was home to some 2O,000 people before it was de-

alongthe way.

o

z.

Resistance & the Quilombos Resistance to slavery took many forms. Documents of the period refer to the desperation of the slaves who starved themselves to death, killed their babies or fled. Sabotage and theft were frequent, as were work slow-

t,

Dom Pedro I declares independence from Portugal and crowns

himself 'emperor'of Brazll.

7 C a

-

666 Tlte bandeirantes took their name from the uademark flag-bearer who would front their expeditions. During the 17th and lSth centuries, group after group of band,sirantes set out from 56o Paulo' The majority were bilingual in Portuguese and Tbpi-Guarani, born of Portuguese fathers and indigenous mothers. They benefited from both indigenous survival techniques and European weaponry' By the mid-l7th century they had journeyed as far as the peaks of the Peruvia.n Andes and the Amazon lowlands. It was the exploits of these marauders that stretched Brazil's borders to their current ext€nl In V50, after four years of negotiations with the Spanish, their conquests were secured The Tleaty of Madrid handed more than 6 million sq km to the Porhrguese and put Brazil's western borders more or less where they axe today' Ttrc bandairantes were known for more than just their colorful flags. Protected from arrows by heavily padded cotton jackets, they waged an all-out war on Brazil's indigenous people, despite the fact that many of them had indigenous mothers. Huge numbers ofindigenous people fled inlan4 searching for shelter from the raiders in the Jesuit missions. But there were few hiding places - it is thought lhe banl.eirantcs killed or enslaved well in excess of5O0,O00 people.

-c)

E

n C

4

Gold

With great mineral wealth flowing out of Brazil. it's no surprise that piracy surged during the epoch. lslands such as llha Grande, with its sheltered bays and fresh water supply, made convenient launchpads on goldladen Portuguese vessels.

--

15O0 Pero Vaz de Caminha wrote to his king, describing the uncertainties of wealth in the interior, and the possibility that there might be gold, silver or anotler type ofvaluable material. Though it wasn't discovered until nearly two centuries later, there certainly was gold in Brazil. Unsurprisingly, it was the band.eirantes w}Io discovered it in the l69os in the Serra do Espinha4o in Minas Gerais. For part of the l8th century Brazil became the world's greatest gold 'producerj unearthing wealth that helped build many of Minas Gerais' historic cities. Boom towns like Ouro PrCto, SabarS, Mariana and Seo Jo6o del Rei sprang up in the mountain valleys. wealthy merchants built opulent mansions and bankrolled stunning baroque churches, many of

In

which remain to this day. Gold produced a major shift in Brazil's population from the Northeast to the Southeast. When gold was first discovered, there were no white colonists in the t€rritory of Minas Gerais. By 1710 the population had reached 3O,000, and by the end of the 18th century it was 500,000 the vast majoriry arriving from Portugal. An estimated one-third of the two million slaves brought to Brazil in the lSth century were sent to the goldfields, where their lives were often worse than in the sugar fields. But the gold boom didnt last. By 1750 the mining regions were in decline and coastal Brazil wils returning to center stage. Many of the gold hunters ended up in Rio de Janeiro, which grew rapidly.

r83r

1835

r865

r888

Brazil'sfirst home-

lnspired by the

grown monarch, Dom Pedro, proves incom-

successful Haitian Revolution someyears earlier, Brazilian slaves in Salvador stage an

Brazil, allied with Uruguay and Argentina,

Slavery is abolished in Brazil, the last country in the New World to do

petent and abdicates the throne. His son Pedro ll takes power in 1840 and ushers in a long period of growth and stability.

uprising - Brazil's last big slave revolt - which narrowly fails.

wagesthe'War of the Triple Alliance' on Paraguay. South America's bloodiest conf lict leaves untold thousands dead, and wipes out half of Paraguay's population.

so. The law is signed by

Princesa lsabel.

667

Dom JoSo Vl Brazil became a t€mporary sanctuary to the Portuguese roya.l family in Running scared from Napoleon, whose army was at that moment advancing on Lisbon, some 15,000 court members fled to Rio de Janeiro, led by the prince regent, Dom Joao. Like so many estrangeiros (foreigners) arriving in Brazil, the regent fell in love with the place and granted himself the privilege of becoming the country's ruler. He opened Rio's Jardim Botdnico (Botanical Gardens) to the public in 1822, and they remain there to this day in the upmarket Jardim BotAnico neighborhood. Even after Napoleon's defeat at Waterloo in 1815, Dom Jodo showed no sign of abandoning Brazil. When his mother, Dona Maria I, died the following year, he became king and declared Rio the capital ofthe United Kingdom of Portugal and Brazil. Brazil became the only New World colony ever to have a European monarch ruling on its soil. 18O7.

The hilarious film Carlota Joaquina, Princesa do Brasil (1995) is about a Spanish princess married to the future Dom Joao Vl, who flees with the entire Portuguese court to Brazil to escape Napoleon.

-

lndependence Independence eventually came in 1822, 30 years after the Inconfid€ncia Mineira (the first organized movement toward independence, organised by Tiradentes and l1 other conspirators to overthrow the portuguese). Iegend has it that on the banks of S5o Paulo's Ipiranga river, Brazil,s then regent, Dom Joio's son Pedro, pulled out his sword, bellowing,,lzdrpendErrcia oumarte!'(lndependence or death!). With the same breath he declared himself Emperor Dom Pedro I. The Portuguese quickly gave in to the idea of a Brazilian empire. Without a single shot being flred, Dom Pedro I became the first emperor of an independent Brazil. Tlte pooo brasileiro (Brazilian people), however, were not as keen on Pedro as he was about their newly born nation. From all accounts he was a blundering incompetent, whose sexual exploits (and resulting string of children) horrified even the most permissive of Brazilians. After nine years of womanizing he was forced to abdicate, leaving his five-year-old son, Dom Pedro II, to take over. A period of crisis followed: the heir to the throne was, after all, just a child. Between l83l and 1811,0 Brazil was governed by so-called regAncios (regencies), a time of political turmoil and widespread rebellions. The only solution was the return of the monarchy and a law was passed to declare Dom Pedro II an adult, well before his lSth birthday. Agedjust 15, Dom Pedro II received the title ofEmperor and perpetual Defender of Brazil (so began the so-called 'Imp6rio Brasill aka 'Brazilian Empire'), precipitating one ofthe most prosperous spells in the countq/s history barring the war with Paraguay in 1868. Invaded by its neighbor,

The bloodiest and most radical of the 1830s revolts was the Cabanagem War in Pard. Rebels held Belem for a year before being evicted and decimated by government

-

troops.

-

r889

r890

189Os

r920

A military coup,

Demand for rubber

With slavery abolished, Brazil opens its borders to meet its labor needs.

The rubber boom goes

supported by Brazil's

skyrockets with

wealthy coffee farmers, overthrows Pedro ll. The monarchy is

the start of the US

automobile industry. Brazil, the world's only natural exporter until

Over the next four decades, millions arrive from ltaly, Portugal,

abolished and the Brazilian Republic is born. Pedro ll goes into

in Amazonian cities like

Spain, Germany and later Japan and other

exile in Paris.

Bel6m and Manaus.

countries.

1910, fuels boom times

bust as the Dutch and English plant their own rubber trees in the East lndies. Brazil's

monopoly on the world rubber market deflates.

t,

o u o o o o

668 Brazil teamed up with Argentina and Uruguay and thrashed the Paraguayans birck across the border.

A masterpiece

ot

Brazilian literature, Rebell,bn in the Backlands (1902) vividly describes the Canudos massacre. Author Euclides de Cunha witnessed the end of Canudos as a correspondent for a Sao Paulo newspaper

Abolition & the Republic

-

'0rder and Progress,'the slogan on Brazil's flag, comes from French philosopher Auguste de Comte (1797-18s7), whose elevation of reason and scientific knowledge over traditional religious beliefs influenced the young Brazilian republic.

-

--

Pxagpay v/as left crippled - its population of about ha-lf a million slashed to just 200,000, of whom around 180,O0O were women. Brazil, too, suffered heavily: around 100,O00 men died, many ofthem slaves sent to war in the place of wealthier Brazilians. Since the l6th century slavery had formed the backbone of a brutally unequal sociery in Brazil. In l88o the noted abolitionist Joaquim Nabuco wrote about the gf,ave injustic€s woven into Brazilian sociew To undo something so deeply ingrained into the Brazilian way of life was never likely to be easy. Brazil prevaricated for nearly 60 years before any sort ofresolution was reached. The lgth century was punctuated by a series of half-hearted legislative attempts to ]ay the slave industry to rest. Such laws repeatedly failed. Slave trafficking to Brazil was banned in 1850, but continued clandestinely. Not until May 13, 1888 - 80 yea.rs after Britain had freed its slaves - was slavery itselfofficially banned in Brazil. Unsurprisingly, this didrit make a huge immediate difference to the welfare of the 80o,oo0 freed slaves, who were largely illiterate and unskilled' Thousands were cast onto the streets without any kind of infrastructure to support them. Many died, while others flooded to Brazil's urban centers, adding to the cities' first slums. Still today, the black community overall experiences higher poverty and lack of access to educational resources. Not far out of the door behind slavery was the lmp€rio Brasil. In 1889 a military coup, supported by Brazil's wealthy coffee farmers, decapitated the old Brazilian empire and the republic was born. The emperor went into exile, where he died a couple ofyears later. A military clique ruled Brazil for the next four years until elections were held, but because of ignorance, comrption, and land and literacy requirements, only about 2% ofthe adult population voted. Uttle changed, except that the power of the military and the now-influential mffee growers increased, while it diminished for the sugar barons.

Open Borders

In the final decade ofthe lgth century Brazil opened its borders' Millions of immigrants - from Italy, Japan, Spain, Germany, Portugal and elsewhere - streamed into Brazil to work on lhe caffee fazendas (farms) and to make new lives in the rapidly growing cities, especially Rio and S5o Paulo, adding further texhtres to Brazil's ethnic mixture and confirming the shift of Brazil's economic center of Sxavity from the Northeast to the southeast.

r93()

I,937

1942

r950

Getf lio Vargas comes into power. lnspired by European fascists, President Vargas presides over an

Getflio Vargas

lnitially maintaining neutrality, Brazil enters WWll on the side of the Allies, providing raw materials, plus 25,000 troops (the only Latin American nation to

Newly constructed Maracani Stadium in Rio plays center stage in the FIFA World Cup.

authoritarian state, playing a major role in Brazilian politics until his fallfrom power in 1951.

announces a new constitution forwhat he calls the 'Estado Novo' (New State); he passes minimum-wage laws in 1938, expands the military and centralizes power.

do so).

Brazildominates until the final, when, before 200,000 fans, it suffers a

stunning lossto Uruguay.

669 Over the next century immigrants continued to flood into Brazil. The country became a haven for Jews fleeing persecution at the hands of the Nazis, a5 well as Nazis looking to avoid being put on trial for war crimes. Arabs, universally known as turcos by the Brazilians, also joined the influx of newcomers. Many of the traders you,ll meet at Rio de Janeiro's Rua Uruguaiana flea market hail from the Middle East.

PRINCESA ISABEL: taBERATOR OF SLAVES Princesa lsabel's parents didn't leave much space on their daughter's birth certificate. Born at the Pal5cio de S5o Crist6v6o to Pedro ll and Teresina Cristina on J uly 29,7946, she found herself the proud owner of no less than 10 names. lsabel cristina Leopoldina Augusta Micaela Gabriela Rafaela Gonzaga de Braganga e Bourbon. She's better known today, however, by this memorable title: the liberator of slaves. For over 300 years Brazilian society had been defined by the slave trade. Keen to cover their tracks, slave traders destroyed many documents relating to their line of work. But it is believed that around 3.6 million slaves were shipped from Africa to Brazil between 1550 and 1888, used as free labor for the sugar (and later coffee) plantations. The first real steps toward abolrtion came in 1826 when the English, having themselves banned slavery in 18oz forced Brazil to outlaw slave-trafficking. yet over the following decades the numbers of slaves entering Brazil only rose. A series of equally ineffective laws proceeded, of which - as is often the case in Brazil - not a single one'pegou'(caught on). On May 13, 1888, after nearly 80 years of prevancation and crossed words with the pro-abolition English, lsabel put pen to paper on the document that would define her life the Lei Aurea. The document contained less than 200 words but its implications were huge. 'SlaveryJ it pointed out,'is now extinct in Brazill lncreasingly, however, hrstorians look at her actions with cynicism. Abolition eradicated an unquestaonable evil from Brazilian society, but what would Brazil's gOO,000 freed slaves, largely illiterate, unskilled and unemployed, now do to support themselves? lsabel seems not to have anticipated this particular question. Thousands of ex-slaves were cast out onto the streets without any kind of infrastructure to support them. Many died, while others flooded to Brazil's urban centers, adding to the city's first favelas. Rio's world-famous Mangueira samba school marked the centenary year of the Lei Aurea with a scathing critique of the law, entitled '1OO years of freedom, reality or illusion?"Could it be that the Lei Aurea so dreamt about, signed so long ago, was not the end of slavery?'it asked. A visit to the impoverished Mangueira favela in Rio's North Zone, in which many of the inhabitants are paid miserable wages to work as porters and maids for the city's better off, shows the answer is a resounding yes. As the samba pornts out, princesa lsabel freed black Brazilians from 'the whips of the senzala' but left them stranded 'ln the misery of the favela:

-

t954

r956

r958

196()

Following an explosive political scandal, the

.Juscelino Kubitschek

The capital is officially

military callsfor the

known as JK), is elected president, and builds a

Brazilwins its first footballWorld Cup. The team catapults to victory over Sweden,

resignation of President Get0lio Vargas. He pens a melodramatic

letterthen shoots himselfthrough the heart at his Rio palace.

de 0liveira

new capital

-

(better

Brasflia.

JK had to bonow heavily to finance the project, leading to inflation thatwill dog the economy for decades.

largely on the skills of a precocious 17-year-old unknown by the name of Pel6.

moved from Rio de Janeiro to Brasllia.

Architects Oscar Niemeyer and Lrlcio Costa play a staning role in building hypermodern Brasilia from scratch in .just

4l months.

670

Getrillo Vargas, Populist Dictator

u,

o ,t a r--t

C.

= o 7

6)

?

From 1980 to 1994, Brazilians suffered devastating hyperinflation, which peaked above 2000% for several years. At this rate, rent doubled every l0 weeks, food and clothes went up 40% a month and credit cards charged 25% a month interest.

-

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o

Set during the military dictatorship,

-l o u

Bruno Barreto's

-

The formation of the Estado Novo (New State) in November 1937

made Vargas the first Brazilian president to wield absolute power. Inspired by the fascist governments of Salazar in Portugal and Mussolini in Italy, Vargas banned political parties, imprisoned political opponents and censored axtists and the press. Despite this, many liked Vargas. The 'father' of Brazil's workers, he introduced new labor laws and remained popular throughout his tenure. In l95l he was elected president, this time democratically. But Vargas' new administration was plagued by the hallmark of Brazilian politics comrption. Amid calls from the military for his resignation' Vaxgas responded dramatically. He penned a note saying, 'I leave this life to enter into histoqt' and on the following morning, August 24, 195'[, fired a single bullet throu8h his own heart.

The Generals Take Over

--

.-{

The Vargas era be8an in 1930 when members of the nervly formed Liberal Alliance party decided to fight back after the defeat oftheir candidate, Getflio Vargas, in the presidential elections. The revolution kicked off on October 3 in Rio Grande do Sul and spread rapidly through other states. Tiventy-one days later President Jflio Prestes was deposed and on November 3 Vargas became Brazil's new'provisional' president.

lilmFour Days in September

(1998) is based on the 1969 kidnapping oI the US ambassador to Brazil by leftist guerrillas.

In l96ri the left-leaning president Joeo Goulart was overthrown in a so+alled reaohqda (revolution) - really a military coup, which many Brazilians believed was backed by the US government. President Lyndon Johnson did nothing to dampen such theories when he immediately cabled his warmest wishes to the new Brazilian administration. Brazil's military regime was not as brutal as those of Chile or Argentina - a reality that led to the somev/hat-unkind sayin8, 'Brazil couldn't even organize a dictatorship properly' Yet for the best part of 20 years, freedom of speech was an unknown concept and political parties were banned.

The Brazilian economy flourished. Year after year in the late 1960s and early 1970s, the economy grew by over 10olo as Brazil's rulers borrowed heavily from international banks. But in the absence of rural land reform, millions moved to the cities, where favelas filled up the open spaces.

-

During this time, Brazil's obsession with'megaprojects'was born' Under the quick-spending regime, construction began on numerous colossal (and mostly ill-fated) plans, including the Tlansamaz0nica highway, the Rio-Niter6i Bridge and the Ilha do Fund6o, which was to house fuo's Federal University.

r964, President Goulart is overthrown by a

military coup - with strong evidence of US involvement. So begins the era of dictatorship, with generals running the show lor the next 20 years.

1968

1968

Thegovernment

The Brazilian economy booms, averaging an

passes the repressive Ato lnstitutional 5 law, which purges

opposition legislators, judges and mayors from public ofiice; most political parties are banned. Protests erupt nationwide.

incredible l0% growth forthe next six years. Rapid income growth continues into the 1970s.

The era of mega' projects and skyrock' eting deficits begins, with the opening of the 5300kmTransam-

azdnica highway.

lt

costs nearly US$l billion, but never achieves its goal of colonizing the Amazon.

671

The Workers Organize By the late 1970s, the economic boom was dying and opposition to the regime began to spread from the educated middle class to the working class. A series of strikes in the 56o Paulo car industry sigaaled the intent of the militant new workers' movement. At the helm was charismatic Luiz InScio 'Lula da Silva, who famously lost one dtd.o (finger) in a factory accident. The Partido dos Tlabalhadores (PT; Workers' Party), Brazil's first-ever mass political party to speak for the poo! grew out of these strikes, and helped pave the way loward abertura (opening), a cautious return to cMlian rule between 1979 and 1985. With popular opposition gathering force, the military announced gradual moves toward a democratic Brazil.

Although it's set in Britain in the future, Terry Gilliam's dystopian film Erazil (1985) pulls themes from real 1980s Brazil, and other

-

military dictatorships, showing an orwellian world of crushing bureaucracy.

THE ORIGINS OF THE FAVELA ln the 1870s and '80s, terrible droughts coupled with the decline of the sugar industry brought economic devastation. Offering a vision of hope, messianic movements became popular among Brazil's poor. The most famous was that of Canudos, led by itinerant preacher Ant6nio Conselheiro (Ant6nio the Counselor), who wandered for years through the backlands preaching and prophesying the appearance of the Antichrist and the end of the world. He railed against the new republican government and in 1893 eventually settled with his followers at Canudos, in the interior of northern Bahia. Within a year and a half Canudos had grown to a city of 35,000. The republican government sensed plots in Canudos to return Brazil to the monarchy. It took them several attempts, however, before a federal force of 8000 well-supplied soldiers - many of whom hailed from Rio - took Canudos after vicious, hand-to-hand, house-to-house fighting. lt was a war of extermrnation that nearly wiped out every man, woman and child from Canudos; the settlement was then burned to the ground to erase it from the nation's memory. The surviving soldiers and their wives returned to Rio, where they were promised land in exchange for their victory. The government, however, reneged on the promise, and the soldiers occupied the nearby hillside of Morro da Provid6ncia. Oddly enough, as the first tenants put up makeshift shelter and settled in, they came across the same hardy shrub they found in the arid lands surrounding Canudos. Calledfavela, this plant caused skin irritations to all who came in contact with it - according to some accounts, the protective shrub even helped repel the army's initial invasions. Hillside residents began calling their new home the Morro da Favela, and the name caught on. Soon the word fayela was used to describe the ever-increasing number of informal communitaes appearing around Rio, which quickly gathered a mix of former slaves and poverty-stricken inhabitants from the interior, who came to the city seeking a better life.

-

1979-80

r984

The consistent decline

The Movimento Sem Terra (MST; Landless

Amazonia rubber-tappers' leader and

Following the impeachment of President

Workers'Movement) an organization calling for land reform - is founded. The fringe

-

environmentalist Chico

Collor, Vice President Itamar Franco takes power. He introduces a

organization of 6000 familiesgrows to more than 1.5 million today.

following Mendes' death forces the government to create extractive reserves.

of workers' wages leads

to strikes across the country. Unions call

forjustice

and young

workers join with intellectuals and activists to form Partido dos Trabalhadores (Pl

Workers'Party).

r994,

Mendes is murdered by a local rancher and his son. The public outcry

new currency, the real, which stabilizes the economy and ushers in an economic boom.

672

Democracy & Gorruption In 1985 a presidential election took place, though the only voters were

Australian Peter Robb weaves

u,

o F o fi

o C) n C)

F c) o n

the

whole of Brazil's history, and most of its literature, into his account of the alleged widespread corruption of the Collor de Mello regime, Death in Brazil (2003).

-

I

--

D C !

lo z

members ofthe national congress. Unexpectedly, Ihncredo Neves, opposing the military candidate, came out on top, and millions of Brazilians took to the streets to celebrate the end of military rule. Immediately a spanner was thrown in the works: Neves died from heart failure before he could assume the presidency. His vice-presidential candidate, the whiskered Jose Sarney, took over. Samey - who had support€d the military until f984 - held office until 1989, a period in which runaway inflation helped Brazil rack up a gargantuan foreign debt. In the 1989 direct presidential election, the first ever that could be ca.lled democratic, it was a Northeastern political climber by the name of Collor who was victorious, beating Lula, the PT's candidate, by the smallest of margins. Fernando Collor de Mello, former Sovernor of the small state of Alagoas, revolutionized consumer laws. Sell-by dates, however, couldn't save him from disgrace. An ever{engthening list of scandals involving Collor and his intimate associate PC Farias - alleged comrption on a vast sca-le, alleged drug deats, family feuds - led to a congressional inquiry, huge student protests and eventually the president's impeachment'

Brazil's Boom Days

-

The first favela (slum) appeared on Rio's landscape in 1892 but it wasn't until 1994 that the communities (which today number over 600) were included on maps.

-

Following Collor's impeachment" Vice President Itamar Franco found himself in the hot seat" Despite his reputation as an eccentrig his administration was credited with competence and integrity. Franco's greatest achievement was to stabilize Brazil's violently erratic economy, introducing a new currency, the real. Pegged to the US do]]ar, the real caused inflation to plummet from a rat€ of over 50000/6 in late 1993 to under 10%o in 1994. The Plano Real sparked an economic boom that lasted two decades, though it was Franco's successor, former finance minister Fernando Henrique Cardoso, who presided through the mid-1990s over a growing economy and record foreign investmenL He is oft€n credited with laying the groundwork that put Brazil's hyperinflation to bed, though often at the neglect of social problems. Come the 2002 election, Lul4 at the fourth time of standing, toned down his socialist rhetoric, and promised to repay Brazil's international debts. This propelled Lula to a convincing victory over the center-right candidate Jose Serra- For the first time ever, Brazil had a government on the Ieft of the political spectrum and a president who really knew what poverty was like. One of 22 children born to a dirt-poor illiterate

20o2

20o3

20ll

20]4

After four unsuccessful

President Lula launches Bolsa Familia, a program ofcash payments

Dilma Rousseft is

Brazil hosts the 2014

attempts, Lulz ln6cio 'Lula' da Silva iselected president. The former union leader serves a moderate first term, despite upper-class fears of radical agendas.

to Brazil's ll million poorest families. The social program is

credited with reducing poverty by 27% during Lula's first term.

sworn in as president of Brazil, becoming the first woman ever to hold the office. As

FIFA

World Cup, spending around US$12

billion in preparation

forthe event, which is

Lula's handpicked successor, she largely

staged at 12 difierent cities across the

continuesthe policies

country.

of her predecessor.

673 farmworker from Brazil's stricken Northeast, Lula had worked as a shoeshine boy, then a mechanic, then a trade-union leader. His accession initially alarmed investors, who had envisioned a leftJeaning renegade running the economy amok. In fact, he surprised friends and foes alike with one of the most financially prudent administrations in years, while still addressing Brazil,s egregious social problems. When Lula left office in 2010, Brazil,s economic prosperity was clear. Brazil became a net foreign creditor for the first time in 2008 and the country weathered the economic recession at the end of the decade bet_ ter than any other developing country. He also helped achieved notable success in antipoverty measures, and helped millions to enter the middle class - all of which helps explain why Lula was rated Brazil! most popular president in history; in his final months in office his approval rating was above

80olo.

Trouble Ahead Riding Lula's coattails, fellow party member Dilma Rousseffwas elected Brazil's first female president in 2010. A former Marxist guerilla, Dilma came down hard on corruption - at least initially. During her first year in office, six of her Bovernment ministers lost their positions due to their involvement in corruption scandals. Her second term, however, imploded when high-ranking members of her own party were linked to a massive corruption scandal. yet even before this came to light, Roussefft popularity was tanking, owing in part to anger over the obscene amount of money being spent on the 20I,1, FIFA World Cup - money that protestors said would be better spent on health, education and poverty reduction. To make matters worse, the burgeoning Brazilian economy stalled, with GDp growth averaging a mere 2o/o per year during her first term, and outright shrinking in her

second term Oy a staggering 8.60/o in 2016). With huge protests rocking the country and the country in the grip of its largest recession in history Rousseff was headed for a fall, and in 2016 she was impeached and removed from office for budgetary violations. Her vice-president, Michel Temer, took over. He too, however, proved unable to curb Brazil's grave problems: its surging unemploy_ ment, weakening currency and high crime rates rocking cities across the country - not to mention the endless scourge of comrption (Temer was also under investigation for accepting bribes and money laundering). Presidential elections were held in 2018, bringing a host of unlikely candidates to the fore.

The Accidental President of Brazil, by Fer nando Henrique Cardoso. is an elucidating memoir by one ol Brazil's most popular presidents, a

-

former sociology professor vaulted into power.

Bye-Bye Brasil is a classic Brazilian -t-t film that follows a traveling circus across Brazil's Northeast, charting the profound changes in Brazilian society that characterized the second half of the 20th century.

I-

rTwo recent books

look at one of Brazil's most popular presidents: Richard Bourne's Lula of Brazil: The Story So Far (2008), and Lula and the Workers Party in Brazil (2003) by Sue Branford.

20r6

2()18

News emerges of Bra-

ln the run-up to the

Presidential elections

zil's largest corruption scandal in history. High-ranking politicians and oil-company executives are linked to

Summer 0lympics, Rio spends US$13 billion on stadiums,

Brazil's first female president is impeached

a US$5 billion scheme that shakes the country

to its core.

downtown light rail and new museums.

veertoward chaos, with its most popular candidate (Lula) behind bars, its extreme righbwing candidate (Bolsonaro) violently stabbed during

office. The following year he is charged with accepting bribes, and hisapproval rating plummetstoT0/6.

a

:n

@

2oI5

infrastructure and civic beautif ication, adding a new metro line, a

o a

o c

--

2oI4

for breaking budgetary laws. Her vice-president, MichelTemer, assumes

=

aa

campaign rally, and two other candidates under criminal investigation.

-r m o

674

Life in Brazil Brazil is a nation of astounding diversitlt, forged from African, European and indigenous influences, along wlth the tens of millions of immigrants who flooded into the country in the late lgthind early 29th centuries. Brazilians of today represent a complicatd portrait of colors and creeds and hail from a wide range of socioeconomic backgrounds. it tit"rtyt" it no less diverse - not surprising for a country that's home to both age-old " cultures and modern metropolises. indigenous

Multiculturalism

--

Dozens of uncontacted indigenous groups still live in the Amazon. ln 2018 FUNAI (Brazil's National lndian Foundation) released drone images of a tribe that had no known contact

with the outside world. FUNAI estimates there are at least eight different uncon' tacted indigenous peoples living in the area.

--

-a-Japanese

immigration began in 1908. and

today Seo Paulo has the world's largest Japanese

community outside ol Japan.

--

Brazilian itlentiW has been shaped not only by the Portuguese, who provided its language and main religion, but also by the indigenous population, Africans and the many immigrants who arrived over the years from Europe, the Middle East and Asia' Indigenous culture, though often ignored or denigxated by urban

Brazilians, has hetped shape modern Brazil and its legends, dance and music. Many indigenous foods and beverages, such as tapioca' manioc (cassava), potatoes, mntl and guarana (a shrub whose berry is a stimulant; also a popular soft drink) have become staples.

The influence of African culture is also evident, especially in the Northeast. The slaves imported by the Portuguese brought with them their religion, music and cuisine, all of which have become a part of Brazilian identity. Brazil had several waves of voluntary immigration. After the end of slavery in 1888, millions of Europeans were recruited to work in the coffee fields. The largest contingent was from Italy (some one million arrived betvveen 189O and f920), but there were also many Portuguese and Spaniards, and smaller groups of Germans and Russians. Immigration is only part of the picrure when considering Brazil's diversW Brazilians are just as likely to mention regional types, often accompanied by their own colorful stereo6'pes. Caboclos, who are descendants of local indigenous gtroups, live along the rivers in the Amazon region and keep alive the traditions and stories oftheir ancestors. Gauthns pop' ulate Rio Grande do Sul, speak a Spanish-inflected Portuguese and can't quite shake the reputation for being rough-edged mwboys. By contrast, baianos, dqcendantsof the first Africans in Brazil, are stereotyped for being the most extroverted and celebratory ofBrazflians. Minniros (residents of Minas Gerais state) are considered more serious and reserved than Brazil's coastal dwellers, while sertaneios (residents of the backlands cdled serffia - ofthe Northeast) are dubbed tough-skinned individuals with strong folk traditions' Cariocas (residents of Rio ciry) are superficial beach bums arcrrtdingla padislhTros (residents of 56o Paulo city), who are often denigrated as being workaholics with no zeal for life - a rivalry that anyone who's lived in l,A or New York can understand' Today there are dozens of terms to describe the various racial com-

positions of Brazilians, and it is not uncommon for apparently white Brazilians to have a mix of European, African and indigenous ancestors' Yet, despite appearances of integration and racial harmony, underneath

675 is a brutal reality. Although black and multiracial people account for 45Zo

of the population, they are sorely underrepresented in government and business, and often see little hope of rising out of poverty. Indigenous people are even more openly discriminated against, continuing a cycle that began with the genocidal policies ofthe first Europeans.

Population Brazil is the world's fifth-most-populous country but it also has one of the smallest population densities, with around 2,S people per sq km. Most of Brazil's population lives along the coast, particularly in the South and Southeast, home to 75o/o of ttle counttys inhabitants. Until the mid20th century Brazil was largely a rural country - today its population is more than 8O% urban. The population in cities has exploded in the last half-century though grorth is slowing. The Northeast has the highest concentration of Afro-Brazilians, with Salvador as its cultural capital. In the Amazon live Caboclos (literally'Copper-Colored'), the descendants of indigenous peoples and the Portuguese. In the South is the most European of the Brazilian population, descendants of Italian and German immigrants. While there is much more mixing between races, Brazil is a long way from being a color-blind society. Afto-Brazilians make up the bulk of lowpaid workers, and are far more likely to live in favelas than in middle