Index of Economic Material in Documents of the States of the United States: Massachusetts, 1789-1904 2342342343, 1341341348, 9781341341342

Citation preview

ALSO AVAILABLE IN SIZES 12 0 –– 16 32

SEWING FOR CURVES

CANTON MOTO JACKET Sizes

0 –16

Cup Sizes

C– H

TABLE OF CONTENTS MEE T T H E C A N TO N M OTO JACK E T

3

CH O OSI N G YO U R SIZE

4

BO DY & FI N ISH ED G A R MEN T ME A SU R EMEN T S

4

FA BR I C & N OT I O NS

5

YA R DAGE R EQU I R EMEN T S

6

PAT T ER N I N V EN TO R Y

7

PR I N T I N G YO U R PD F

8

PR I N T L AYO U T

9

SE W I N G GU I D EL I N E S

10

PL A N YO U R O U T FI T!

11

CU T T I N G L AYO U T S

12

I NS T R U C T I O NS 17

SEWING FOR CURVES

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  2  

2

VIEWS

CANTON MOTO JACKET

View A

View B

● 

● 

●  Hip

length Zipper pockets

●  Cropped

length No pockets

Rev up your wardrobe with the Canton Moto Jacket! Designed for mid- to heavy-weight woven fabrics, the Canton features classic biker-style jacket details like an asymmetrical front zip, wide notched lapel, zipper pockets, lined interior, and gusseted zipper sleeve openings. Front princess seams and back fisheye darts provide essential shaping for curves, along with two-piece sleeves. Choose between cropped or hip length and top it off with large decorative snaps for a timeless jacket you’ll wear for years to come. SEWING LEVEL: Intermediate.

SEWING FOR CURVES

Welcome to your C a shm eret te Pat tern! Welcome to Cashmerette! We are passionate about the life-changing possibilities of sewing a wardrobe that expresses your personality and fits you everywhere, without compromise. At Cashmerette, we’re dedicated to making it easy for sewists with big boobs to make fabulous clothes. Start with our sewing patterns thoughtfully designed for curves, in sizes 0 – 32 and cup sizes C – H, and then explore our range of online workshops, books, free tutorials, community and our monthly membership program, the Cashmerette Club. Happy sewing!

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  3  

High bust: Place the tape around your back, under your armpits, and up over the top of your bust. Tape will not be parallel to the floor.

CHO OSING YOUR SIZE How to measure yourself ●

●

Measure yourself in your underwear for all your measurements, except for your high bust, which you should measure without wearing a bra. For this garment, measure your waist and hip while sitting.

Full bust: Place the tape over the fullest part of the bust

How to choose your size or sizes ●

●

●

Try our sizing calculator! Find your Cashmerette size in seconds at cashmerette.com/sizing

Cup size: Use your high bust and full bust measurements to choose your cup size. As bra sizes are variable, choose based on your measurements rather than your bra size. If you wear a DDD/E – F cup bra, use the closest E/F or G/H cup to your measurements. If you wear a G or larger cup bra, use the closest G/H cup to your measurements.

Waist: Measure where you are narrowest Hip: Place the tape around the widest part

Grading between sizes: If your measurements are between sizes (e.g. your bust is an 8, waist is a 10 and hips are a 14), then you can grade between sizes. Go to cashmerette.com/grading to learn how.

Fitting notes Cashmerette Patterns are drafted for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). Size

 

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

30 33 34 35 25 35 97⁄ 8

31 34 35 36 26 36 10¼

32 35 36 37 27 37 105 ⁄ 8

33 36 37 38 28 38 11

34 37 38 39 29 39 113⁄ 8

35½ 38½ 39½ 40½ 30½ 40½ 117⁄ 8

37 40 41 42 32 42 123⁄ 8

39 42 43 44 34 44 13¼

41 44 45 46 36 46 141⁄8

79 86 89 91 66 91 26

81 89 91 94 69 94 27

84 91 94 97 71 97 28

86 94 97 99 74 99 29

90 98 100 103 77 103 30

94 102 104 107 81 107 31

99 107 109 112 86 112 34

104 112 114 117 91 117 36

39¼ 40¼ 41¼ 341 ⁄ 8 41¼ 21 16 13¾

40¼ 41¼ 42¼ 351 ⁄ 8 42¼ 21¼ 16¼ 14¼

41¾ 42¾ 43¾ 365 ⁄ 8 43¾ 21½ 16½ 147 ⁄ 8

43¼ 44¼ 45¼ 381 ⁄ 8 45¼ 215 ⁄ 8 16 5 ⁄ 8 15 5 ⁄ 8

45¼ 46¼ 47¼ 401 ⁄ 8 47¼ 217 ⁄ 8 167 ⁄ 8 16½

47¼ 48¼ 49¼ 421 ⁄ 8 49¼ 221 ⁄ 8 171 ⁄ 8 17½

100 102 105 87 105 53 41 35

102 105 107 89 107 54 41 36

106 109 111 93 111 54 42 38

110 112 115 97 115 55 42 40

115 117 120 102 120 56 43 42

120 123 125 107 125 56 44 44

BODY MEASUREMENTS (in)

High Bust Full Bust C/D cup E/F cup G/H cup Waist Hip Bicep

BODY MEASUREMENTS (cm) High Bust Full Bust C/D cup E/F cup G/H cup Waist Hip Bicep

76 84 86 89 64 89 25

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (in) Full Bust C/D cup E/F cup G/H cup Waist Hip View A Back length View B Bicep

36¼ 37¼ 38¼ 311 ⁄ 8 38¼ 20¼ 15¼ 121 ⁄ 8

37¼ 38¼ 39¼ 321 ⁄ 8 39¼ 20½ 15½ 12¾

38¼ 39¼ 40¼ 331 ⁄ 8 40¼ 20¾ 15¾ 13¼

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS (cm) Full Bust C/D cup E/F cup G/H cup Waist Hip View A Back length View B Bicep

© Cashmerette 2023

92 95 97 79 97 51 39 31

95 97 100 82 100 52 39 32

97 100 102 84 102 53 40 34

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  4  

FABRIC  AND NOTIONS Recommended fabric ●

●

●

●

Main fabric: Mid- to heavy-weight woven fabrics such as boiled wool, boucle, jacquard, denim, vinyl, or leather (low-stretch woven fabrics will also work). Lining: Lightweight woven fabric such as rayon Bemberg or crepe de chine.

Notions ●

Universal needle (If using leather, use a leather needle; for a vinyl fabric, use a topstitching needle).

●

Hand sewing needle.

Pocket Fabric: Stable woven fabric such as quilting cotton or shirting.

●

Thread.

●

22” (56 cm) separating jacket zipper.*

Interfacing: Midweight woven (weft) fusible interfacing (not required if using vinyl or leather).

●

●

TIP: Always wash, dry, and press your fabric before you cut your pieces, using the same method you’ll use to wash your final garment.

●

●

●

Two 5” (13 cm) long non-separating zippers (size 5) for sleeve gussets.* Two 6” (15 cm) long non-separating zippers (size 5) for pockets – View A only.* Four ½” (12 mm) diameter metal snap caps and sockets. (Corresponding studs and posts not required.) 1 pair of 3 ⁄8 – ½” (10 – 12 mm) thick suit/jacket shoulder pads. Optional: 4” (10 cm) of twill tape for hanging loop.

* NOTE: For a true moto style jacket, use metal zippers. For a softer look, you can use plastic zippers. If you cannot find zippers the exact length specified, buy longer ones and trim them to size – see tutorial at cashmerette.com/shortenzip Tools ●

© Cashmerette 2023

Tailor’s chalk, point turner, tailor’s ham or rolled up towel, zipper foot.

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  5  

  YARDAGE REQUIREMENTS

Size

 

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

2½ 2¼ 21⁄8 1¾

2½ 2¼ 21⁄8 1¾

2½ 2¼ 21⁄8 1¾

2¾ 2½ 2¼ 2

2¾ 2½ 2¼ 2

2¾ 2½ 2¼ 2

3 2¾ 23 ⁄ 8 2¼

3 2¾ 23⁄8 2¼

3 2¾ 23⁄8 2¼

1¾ 1½ 1½ 1¼

2 15 ⁄ 8 15 ⁄ 8 13 ⁄ 8

2 15 ⁄8 15 ⁄8 13⁄8

2 15 ⁄8 15 ⁄8 13⁄8

21 ⁄ 8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 15 ⁄8

21 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 15 ⁄8

21 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 17 ⁄8 15 ⁄8

11 ⁄8 1

11 ⁄8 1

11 ⁄8 1

11 ⁄8 1

11 ⁄8 1

11 ⁄8 1

11 ⁄8 1

3 ⁄8

3 ⁄8

3 ⁄8

3 ⁄8

3 ⁄8

3 ⁄8

3 ⁄8

2.3 2 1.9 1.6

2.4 2.2 2 1.8

2.4 2.2 2 1.8

2.4 2.2 2 1.8

2.8 2.5 2.2 2

2.8 2.5 2.2 2

2.8 2.5 2.2 2

1.7 1.4 1.4 1.2

1.8 1.5 1.5 1.3

1.8 1.5 1.5 1.3

1.8 1.5 1.5 1.3

1.9 1.7 1.7 1.5

1.9 1.7 1.7 1.5

1.9 1.7 1.7 1.5

1 0.9

1 0.9

1 0.9

1 0.9

1 0.9

1 0.9

1 0.9

0.3

0.3

0.3

0.3

0.3

0.3

0.3

MAIN FABRIC      REQUIREMENTS (yards)

45" wide 55" wide

View A View B View A View B

LINING FABRIC REQUIREMENTS (yards)   45" wide 55" wide

View A View B View A View B

1¾ 1½ 1½ 1¼

1¾ 1½ 1½ 1¼

INTERFACING REQUIREMENTS (yards) 45” wide

View A View B

11 ⁄ 8 1

11 ⁄8 1

POCKETING REQUIREMENTS (yards) 45” wide

View A

3 ⁄8

3 ⁄8

     REQUIREMENTS (meters) MAIN FABRIC

115 cm wide 140 cm wide

View A View B View A View B

2.3 2 1.9 1.6

2.3 2 1.9 1.6

LINING FABRIC REQUIREMENTS (meters)   115 cm wide 140 cm wide

View A View B View A View B

1.7 1.4 1.4 1.2

1.7 1.4 1.4 1.2

INTERFACING REQUIREMENTS (meters) 115 cm wide View A 1 1 0.9 0.9 View B POCKETING REQUIREMENTS (meters) 115 cm wide View A

© Cashmerette 2023

0.3

0.3

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  6  

PAT TERN INVENTORY

2

1

5

3

4A

4B

4C

7

12

6

17

SIZE 12

13B

13C

14

15

16

SIZE 12

13A

SIZE 12

SIZE 12

SIZE 12

11

8

18

INT2A INT2B INT2C INT3A INT3B INT3C

INT5 INT4

INT1 INT6

1. Right center front 2. Middle front 3. Center front 4A. Side front, C/D cup 4B. Side front, E/F cup 4C. Side front, G/H cup 5. Outer pocket (View A) 6. Inner pocket (View A) 7. Back 8. Under collar 9. Top collar 10. Outer sleeve 11.  Inner sleeve 12. Sleeve gusset 13A. Side front lining, C/D cup 13B. Side front lining, E/F cup 13C. Side front lining, G/H cup 14. Middle front lining 15. Back lining 16. Back facing 17.  Outer sleeve lining 18. Inner sleeve lining

© Cashmerette 2023

SIZE 12

10

9

12

INT 1. Zipper interfacing INT 2A. Side front hem interfacing, C/D cup (View A) INT 2B. Side front hem interfacing, E/F cup (View A) INT 2C. Side front hem interfacing, G/H cup (View A) INT 3A. Side front hem interfacing, C/D cup (View B) INT 3B. Side front hem interfacing, E/F cup (View B) INT 3C. Side front hem interfacing, G/H cup (View B) INT 4. Back hem interfacing (View A) INT 5. Back hem interfacing (View B)

INT7 INT 6. Outer sleeve hem interfacing INT 7. Inner sleeve hem interfacing

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  7  

PRINTING YOUR PDF ●

There are separate files for each cup size:

– Cup size C/D – Cup size E/F – Cup size G/H ●

●

●

●

Print your pattern pieces on Letter or A4 paper, selecting “custom fit = 100%” or “no scaling” on your PDF printer settings to make sure it prints at the right size. Make sure “Choose paper source by PDF page size” is NOT checked. Under Orientation, select “Auto portrait/ landscape.” Grid should be centered in the page when printed. Print a test page first – Adobe Reader is a great free program for printing PDFs (do not print directly from a browser). Measure a square in the grid to confirm it is 1 inch by 1 inch. To assemble, cut the right and bottom margin off a page, overlap with the adjoining pages and then tape or glue them together. Lay out the pages first to see which pages need trimming – you will not need to cut them all!

1

2

PRINTING THE L AYERED FILE These are layered PDF files, which means that each size is on a separate layer so you can print only the size(s) you need. ●

●

●

Open the file in Adobe Acrobat or Adobe Reader. To view a list of all the file’s layers, click on the Layers icon on the left panel of the window. 1 An eye icon next to the layer’s name means that the layer is visible and will be printed. If you need to grade between sizes, be sure all the sizes you are going to use are visible. You can hide the layer by clicking on the eye icon to get a blank box; this layer won't be printed. 2

3

The labels layer and the grid layer must also be visible so you can assemble and use your pattern properly. Before printing, double check that only the layers you want to print are selected (with eye icon showing) and all labels and grids are visible. 3

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  8  

PRINT L AYOUTS

For All Views

– Print p. 1 – 53. © Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  9  

Right side of fabric

Wrong side of fabric

  GUIDELINES SE WING

Finishing seam allowances

Fabric Key Right side of fabric

●

Wrong side of fabric

Right side of lining

Wrong side of lining ●

Right side of lining

Wrong side of lining

Interfacing

Interfacing

Seam allowance ●

All seam allowances are included. Seam allowances are ½” (12 mm) unless otherwise noted, and are written on the pattern pieces.

Sewing machines ●

Sew on a regular sewing machine using a straight 2.5 mm stitch.

Transfer notches and markings ● Use scissors to snip a small (1 ⁄8” / 3 mm) cut on your

●

Lightly press each seam after it is sewn, from the wrong side then the right side of the fabric, using an up-and-down motion. Then press seam open or to one side, following step-by-step instructions. Test the temperature of the iron first and use a press cloth to avoid causing a shine.

Grading seam allowances ●

Seam allowances can become bulky, especially when using heavier fabrics. Grade the seam allowances by trimming them down after sewing, reducing the seam allowance that will face the outside of the garment to ¼” (6 mm) and the other, inner seam allowance to 1 ⁄8” (3 mm).

© Cashmerette 2023

fabric to indicate the notches, including marking the center front and back point for pieces cut on the fold. Transfer other markings from your pattern pieces to your fabric, using chalk or tailor’s tacks.

Labeling ●

The outer jacket made from the main fabric is referred to as the “shell” in the instructions, and the assembled lining and facings is referred to as the “lining”.

Lengthen/Shorten Pattern ●

Pressing ●

On a sewing machine: Sew a second line of stitching 1 ⁄8” (3 mm) from the seam and trim the seam allowance off very close (1 ⁄16” / 1.5 mm) to the stitching. On a serger (overlocker): Use a 3-thread stitch, and serge as close as possible to the stitching line after sewing on a sewing machine.

●

●

Lengthen/Shorten lines have been provided on the pattern. These currently go through the middle of the pocket openings (circle markings on side front (4 A/B/C), middle front (2) and right center front (1)). If you choose to lengthen or shorten your pattern you will also need to modify the pocket positioning. If you shorten the pattern more than 1” (2.5 cm) you will probably wish to remove the pocket as there will not be enough room for it to sit beneath the bust. If shortening the pattern less than 1” (2.5 cm) or lengthening the pattern, do this as per the standard method, then remark the circle markings for the pockets in your desired location. The pocket markings should be 6” (15 cm) apart, 5 ⁄8” (1.6 cm) from the vertical cut edge, and the lower circle marking should be at least 3” (7.6 cm) from the lower hem edge.

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  10  

PL AN YOUR OUTFIT! Use this croquis (figure outline) to sketch fabric ideas or any alterations you plan to make to your Canton Moto Jacket.

Want to make a custom croquis with your own personal measurements? Go to MyBodyModel.com to create a free preview!

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  11  

7

4 11

1

3 11

12

4 10 Carefully

3

12

3 11

1

2 3

7

12

MAIN FABRIC

4

2

3

10 7

MAIN SIZE 6A-FABRIC 10 – View A View Sizes 0 0 -– 4 4 SIZE

45”/115 cm wideSelvage fabric Selvage 11 7 3 Selvage 7 1212

16

44

12

8

38

16

9

12

4

4 11 12

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Sizes66-–10 10 SIZE

Selvage

45”/115 cm wide fabric 7 Selvage

12

3 1 1 12 33 11 11 1 3 3 2 3 10

7 10 10 7 7 10 10 10 11 11 4

4 8

28 12

8

16

16 911 12

84

1111

2

1111

43

12

10

24

16

9

8

4

4 12

Selvage Selvage

12 12

3 2

43 3 4

24

113 1

16

48

9

118

8 16

8

4

9

10

9

16

2

84

Selvage

113 9

16

4 84

Selvage

8 9

7 10 7 16

9

1

7 7 10

12

11 10 11

2

12

10 10 10 11

3 3

4

12

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

338 2 Selvage Selvage

Selvage

Selvage

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

3

45 inch 7 / 115 cm wide fabric11

Selvage

4

SIZE 12 - 16

12 16

3 Selvage

1 3 11

12

8

8

Selvage Selvage

3

7

11

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

3

84

11 45 inch 7 / 115 cm wide fabric

16

48

Selvage Selvage

7

8

12

8

SIZE 12 - 16

3 4

12

1

SIZE 12 - 16 © Cashmerette 2023

16 911

1 11 12

12

Selvage Selvage

8

12

8 16

SelvageSelvage

11 1 3

8

5555”/140 inch / 140 wide fabric fabric cmcmwide 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

12

10 1010

3 110

10 10 10

4

Selvage

3 110

3 11 3 3 31212

7 7 10

16

9

8

4

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

7 77 7 7 10

12

Selvage

7 7 77

8

fabric 4545”/115 inch / 115cm cm wide wide fabric 7

4 3 28

Selvage

12

Selvage

3 11 33 312

9

12

Selvage

55 inch12 /12 140 SIZE -– cm 16 Sizes 16wide fabric

12

12

3 1 1 12 33 11 11 31 3 2 3 10 2

4

Selvage

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

4 3

12

Selvage

SIZE 6 - 10

12

55”/140 cmcmwide 55 inch12 / 140 fabric SIZE - 16 wide fabric SIZE 6 10 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

9

Selvage

2

8

Selvage

3 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric Selvage 11 3

113

7 10 10 7 7 10 10 10 11 11 4

8 Selvage

4

16

9

4 11

7

7 7

98

16

4118

12

8

38

3 Selvage 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

8

93

55 inch / 140 cm wideSelvage fabricSelvage

7 7

4

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Selvage

22

11 3 10 3 3 2

12

2

16 4

Selvage

9 8

16

55”/140 SIZE 6 - cm 10wide fabric

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

1 33 3 71 11

33

2

12

Selvage 55 inch / 140 cm wideSelvage fabric

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

410

Pattern Right side faceofdown fabric

8

4118

12

10 4

Selvage

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

1 10 11

Key 8

Wrong side 1112Pattern face up of fabric

93

Cutting layout is laid out wrong side of fabric facing up for 3ease 8 3 assumes 8that fabric 10 7 11 to the asymmetrical nature of this pattern, make sure 7 1 1 marking. Due of 3 710 that you11 3 4 8 showing which pattern pieces need to be face up carefully follow the cutting layouts 4 11 1 3 310 10 which 2 1112 1011 and ones 12 need to be face down. Selvage

7 710

8

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

that, for12 the most2 efficient use of fabric, you should use a single layer of 11 7 3 Selvage 8 9 3 3 pattern piece 7 fabric. Where says 16 “cut on fold,” simply flip the piece over to cut12the 12 4 16 7 1 second half. 11 10 7 3

10 10 7

4 8

10

●

9

16

3 4 Pattern

● Lay out pattern pieces on fabric following the cutting diagrams. place 12 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Selvage FABRIC View A pieces ensuring the grainline marked on each piece is parallel MAIN to the selvage. Selvage (Use a rulerSelvage or tape to check.) View 6A- 10 SIZE SIZE 0 - 4 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric 11 The layouts & yardage requirements allow for the use of directional 7 / 115cutting 45● inch cm wide fabric 45 inch / 115 cm wideprints fabric 9 SIZE 0required. -4 or fabric with nap. For plaid or stripe matching, extra fabric may be Selvage Selvage Selvage

10 ● Note

8

4 16

11

7

10 1

Selvage CUT TING MAIN FABRICL AYOUTS

2

33

7 7

8

3

10

10 10

8

Selvage

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

12

12 16

3 48

9

1

3 4

16

4

44 2

9

8 16

11 8 8

8

9

2

Selvage

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  12  

11 11

10 10

9

3 3 2 MAIN 7 7 FABRIC 11 12

8

Sizes 00–-44 SIZE

12

3

9

16

110 7

8

2

12

12

Selvage

7 7

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

4

Selvage

3

11 3 33 11 2 11

10 7 10 110

7 7

7

3

9

4

16

12

55 inch 12 1 / 140 cm wide fabric

4

11 1

11

Selvage Selvage

16

16 8

16

8

9

8 9

4 4

Selvage

8

11 45”/115 cm wide fabric 3

45 inch 10 / 115 cm wide fabric

3 7

12

8

10 7

1

12

2

12

12

2 8

16

3

12

11 1 11

7 10 10 11

1

16

12

732

12

3 3

12

12

3 11 12

3

9

8 9

8 8

3 72 3 11 12

12

4 4

4

16

23

Selvage

4

1

3

8

3

Selvage

11 Selvage

4

10 4

2

1612

1 3

9 9

12

7 7

12

11 3

4

3 4

3

4

8 8

11 7

10

4

3

11

10 16

8

8

10

2

3 2 4

2

4

1

Selvage

8 9

8

8

4

11 1 11

77

16

3

4

Selvage

16

8

7 10 10 11

4

4

8

7 © Cashmerette 2023 7

9

11

7 10 10

8

9

3

Selvage

3

Selvage 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

83

4 16

3

Selvage Selvage 11

12

7

11

8

38

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

12

2

4

8

4

7

12

SIZE 12 - 16

Selvage Selvage

10 10

12

4

9

45 inch10 / 115 cm wide fabric3

16

Selvage

1

9

4

4

Selvage Selvage

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

7

11

4

8

9

1

10

Selvage

3

SIZE 12 - 16

4

3

Selvage Selvage 11

10

4 9

38

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

12

16

3

Selvage

3 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

16

8

4

3

11 1 113

10 7

2

9

8

12

8

3

11 3 7

SIZE 12 - 16

8

4 Selvage

3

cmcm wide fabric 5555”/140 inch / 140 wide fabric

3 9

1

7

117

8

8

12

7

10

2

Selvage

11 1 113

11

4

Selvage

7

8

9

12

16

1

55 inch 11 / 140 cm wide fabric 2

3

12

10 12 7

4

4

4

Selvage

12

3

7

1

10 7

Selvage wide fabric Selvage

Sizes 12 12 –- 16 SIZE 16 10

10

16 8

4

1

10

16

4

Selvage

10

9

Selvage 3

12

38

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric2

55 inch / 140 cm

8

45 inch10 / 115 cm wide fabric

2

12

711

11

16

38

711

SIZE 10 12 - 16

8

3

1

SIZE 6 - 10

12

11

10

916

11

11 7

2

cmcm wide fabric Selvage 5555”/140 inch / 140 wide fabric

Selvage3

12

9

Selvage

1212

1 77

8

9 16

11

4

3 3 12 311 3 3

8

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric2

212

710 10

1 77

SIZE 6 - 10

Selvage 3 Selvage

1010 7

3

11 7

11 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric 10

8

3

12 12

12

Selvage

4 Sizes10 SIZE 66 –- 10 10 cm cm wide fabric 5545”/115 inch / 140 wide fabric

4

4

2 123 3 12 3 11 3

7 10 10

4

9 8

3

8

3

4

Selvage

SelvageSelvage 3

10107

8

2

16

12 7Selvage

7

10

4

3 2 9

16

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric 11

12 83

12

3 9 8

4

SIZE106 - 10

Selvage

12 12

92

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

8

8

2

11 1

Selvage Selvage

Selvage

10

3

8

16

3

11

4 45 inch 10/ 115 cm wide fabric 11

3

12 12

5555”/140 inch12 widefabric fabric 1/ 140 cmcm wide

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Selvage

SIZE106 - 10

12

4

83

12 Selvage 7

7

8

1 cm wide fabric 45”/115 11

11 3 33 11 2 11

10 710

4

3 View 7 BFABRIC – View B MAIN 1 7 3

16

2

16

3 |  13   3 The Canton Moto Jacket  8 12 Selvage

4

1715

13 13 18 1717 14 18 13 View A 18 14 A LINING FABRIC – View 15 14

13

Selvage

17

LINING FABRIC

17

14 18 18

17 17

18 15 15

Selvage

17

Selvage

55 inch inch/ /115 140cm cm wide 13fabric 45 wide fabric

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

15 17 17 17 17

18 15 15 14 18

13

17

13 13 18 18 14 14 18 13 13 14 14 Selvage 15 Selvage

15 15 17

14 18

Selvage Selvage

17 15 17

13

14

15 17

Selvage

SIZE 6/ -140 10cmSelvage 55 inch wide fabric

15

18

14 Sizes 12 15 – 16- 16 SIZE 12 18 45”/115 cm wide fabric 17

SIZE 12 - 16

Selvage Selvage

55”/140 cm wide fabric14 55 inch inch/15 /115 140cm cm wide fabric 45 wide fabric

18 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

15

18

13 14

18

15 15 14

13

1813 18 Selvage

Selvage Selvage

17

14 13

18 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

1818 15 1314

17 17 17 17 15

15

15

17 17 17

15

14

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Selvage

SIZE 12 - 16

14

Selvage Selvage

Selvage

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

13

14

18 15 18 13

13

Selvage

55 140cm cmwide widefabric fabric 45 inch inch // 115

© Cashmerette 2023

14 13

18 Selvage

Selvage

18 17 17

13

18 13

SIZE 12 - 16Selvage

18 14

13 14

14

18 17 13 13

Selvage

15

13

Selvage

Selvage

15

14

13 Selvage 18 18

Selvage

1717

13

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

15 17 17 14

14

1415

17 17 15

13

13

13

1815

17 14 17

18 14

14Selvage

14 18

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric 18

13

Selvage

17

13

SIZE17 12 - 16 15

13

15

Selvage

Selvage Selvage

14 15 18 Selvage

13

Selvage

55”/140 cm wide fabric 5545inch wide inch/ /140 115cm cmSelvage widefabric fabric

13

15 14 17 18 17

1518

SIZE156 - 10

SIZE Sizes 6 –6 10- 10 14 15 cm 45”/115 wide 55 inch 140 cmfabric widefabric fabric 45 inch // 115 cm wide

13

13

14

14 18 17 17

Selvage Selvage

1418 18 14 18 13

18 1418 18 1413

18

17 1715

Selvage Selvage

17 1715

13

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Selvage

17

18

Selvage 14

SIZE156 - 10

14 15

13

Selvage

Selvage

15

13

Selvage

14 15 14 55”/140 wide fabric 55 18 inchcm / 140 cm wide fabric

SIZE0 –04 - 4 Selvage Sizes 18cm wide fabric 45”/115 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric 55 inch / 140 Selvage cm wide fabric 176 - 10 SIZE

18

14 13 14

18 13

1413

17 17

14Selvage 18 13

The Canton 14 Moto Jacket  |  14  

13

13

14 15 15 15 18 LINING 14 FABRIC 15 14

1718

13 13

15 17 15 14 1515

Selvage View B LINING FABRIC – View B

55 inch Sizes 00 – 4/-140 SIZE 4 cm wide fabric 45”/115 cm wide fabric 45 inch / 115 cmSelvage wide fabric

Selvage Selvage

SIZE - 10 55 inch6/ 140 cm wide fabric

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

15 15 17 14 15 15

13 14

17

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric Selvage

18 13 18 18 1414 13 13 15 18 13 13 14 15

17 15 1718

17 15 15

18 Selvage

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Selvage

Selvage SIZE 6 - 10

17 15 15 14 15

13 18

SIZE 12 - 16 13

18

Selvage

18 Selvage

15

15

14

15

1818 Selvage

13

Selvage

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric 18 Selvage Selvage

55”/140 cm wide fabric 18 fabric SIZE - cm 16wide 55 inch12 / 140

15

45 inch / 115 cm Selvage wide14 fabric

13 13 14

15 15 14 18 18 18 Selvage

Selvage13

14

17 17

13 13 13 14 13

17 1715 17 15

Selvage

15 17

18 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric Selvage Selvage

18

SIZE 12 - 16

14 13 1513 13 15 14 14 14 18 18 13 13 Selvage 18 18 Selvage

55 inch / 140 cm wide 18 fabric

SIZE 12 - 16

Selvage

45 inch 15/ 115 cm wide fabric

55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

Selvage 14

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

Selvage

Selvage

14 13

Selvage

14

© Cashmerette 2023

1513 15

13 13 13 15 18 14 14

1517 17

1814

14 18

1715 17

14 13 13 14

17 17

13

15 13 14

Selvage18 SIZE Sizes 12 12 – 16- 16 45”/115 cm wide fabricfabric 15 45 inch / 115 cm wide

17 17 17

18 14

Selvage

45 inch / 115 cmSelvage wide fabric

17 17 17 15 17 15 14 15

18

17

17

14

13

45 inch15 / 115 cm wide fabric

Selvage

17

14 13 15 14 Selvage18 18

Selvage

18 14 13 14 13

Selvage

13

18

Selvage

55 inch SIZE 6 /-140 10cm wide fabric

17

13

14 14

SIZE cm 6 -wide 10 fabric 55”/140 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

Selvage

14

14 1318

Selvage

Selvage

17 17 15

18

Selvage

Sizes 6 – /10 55 inch 140 cm wide fabric 45”/115 wide 45 inch / 115 cmfabric wide fabric 17cm

17 15 17 18

15

14

13

Selvage

17 15 17

Selvage

14

15 14

18

17

17 17 18

13 13

14 cm wideSelvage 55”/140 fabric 55 inch / 140 cm wide fabric

SIZE 6 - 10Selvage

Selvage

18 Selvage

Selvage

17 17

18 14 13 1514

13 13

17 17 15

15

14 The 14 Canton Moto Jacket  |  15   13

45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric Selvage

2 Note: Interfacing cutting layout assumes interfacing fabric laid out with glue side facing up.

9

1 3

INTERFACING

INT2

INT7 INT4

ALL SIZES

INT6

INT1

Selvage

INTERFACING – View B, All sizes

INTERFACING – View A, All sizes

View A

45”/115 cm wide fabric 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

View B

45”/115 cm wide fabric 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric

Selvage

Selvage

2

1

9

1

9

3 3

INT5

2

INT2

INT7

INT6 POCKETING INT1 INT4

Selvage

INT6

INT3

INT1

INT7

Selvage

ALL SIZES View B POCKET FABRIC – View A, All sizes View 45 inchA / 115 cm wide fabric 45”/115 cm wide fabric Selvage 45 inch / 115 cm wide fabric Selvage

1

9 5

3

6 INT5

6

2

5 INT6

INT3

INT1

INT7

Selvage Selvage

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  16  

INSTRUCTIONS NOTE: Instructions are written for a standard sewing machine. When instructions are the same for all views, only View A will be shown.

2. Apply interfacing following manufacturer’s

instructions, to the wrong side of lower hem edges of the following pieces:

View A APPLY INTERFACING

●

1. Apply interfacing, following manufacturer’s

●

instructions, to the wrong side of top collar (9), right center front (1), middle front (2) and one left (as worn) center front (3).

● ●

INT 2 A/B/C to side front (4 A/B/C) INT 4 to back (7)

INT 6 to outer sleeve (10) INT 7 to inner sleeve (11)

NOTE: You will have three center front (3) pieces – a left and right that will be used as facings in the lining and an extra left (as worn) for the shell. Make sure you apply the interfacing to the shell left hand side center front (3) as shown.

4

9

INT2

4

7

7

INT2

INT4

INT4

2 1

3

11

10

INT7

10

INT6

INT6

11

INT7

View B ● ● ● ●

INT 3 A/B/C to side front (4 A/B/C) INT 5 to back (7)

INT 6 to outer sleeve (10) INT 7 to inner sleeve (11)

4

INT3

11

INT7

© Cashmerette 2023

4

INT3

7

7

INT5

10

10

INT6

INT6

INT5

11

INT7

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  17  

SEW FRONT

1. Pin your zipper against the front edge of right

center front (1), right sides together, with the bottom zipper stop 1 ⁄8” (3 mm) above lower notch. Mark your zipper tape on the front and back at the top of the pattern piece.

3. Pin zipper again to straight edge of right center

front (1), right sides together. Make sure the bottom end of the zipper is 1 ⁄8” (3 mm) above lower notch and the marking on the zipper aligns with the top edge of the right center front (1). Using a zipper foot, sew right hand side of zipper tape to right center front (1) about 1 ⁄8” (3 mm) away from zipper teeth.

Mark

1

1

2. If using a metal zipper, unpin and open the zip,

and then remove all zipper teeth from both sides of the zipper tape for ½” (12 mm) below marking made in step 1. Create a new zipper stop just below the ½” (12 mm) mark by hand sewing around the edge of the tape several times (see diagram below. 1 Mark New zip stop

Mark New zip stop 4. Flip zipper over

For full details on how to do this, see tutorial at cashmerette.com/shortenzip. If using a plastic zipper, teeth removal is not required however you will still need to create a new zipper stop ½” (12 mm) below marking made in step 1. © Cashmerette 2023

so that the right side is facing up and press fabric away from zipper teeth.

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  18  

5. Pin middle front (2) to free side of the zipper

tape, aligning the bottom of the zipper 1 ⁄8” (3 mm) above the lower notch, and the marking on the zipper with the upper notch. Flip pieces so zipper is facing up, and then using a zipper foot, sew zipper to middle front (2) from the bottom notch to ½” (12 mm) below the upper notch, 1 ⁄8” (3 mm) from the zipper teeth.

1

2

8. Pin interfaced center

front (3) to middle front (2) along entire seam, right sides together, matching notches. The zipper will be sandwiched between the two layers, and the middle front (2) will extend past the bottom of the center front (3). Sew, using a zipper foot, starting at a ½” (12 mm) seam allowance at the shoulder, blending to sew over the previous line of stitching, ending at the lower notch.

3

2

9. Open and press middle

front (2) away from the zipper teeth. Press all seam allowances towards the middle front (2) and topstitch ¼” (6 mm) from folded edge, finishing 1½” (3.8 cm) from the hem.

3

2

6. Fully separate zipper

and the two pieces. Trim zipper tape flush with the top of the right center front (1).

1

7. On middle front (2) fold

the end of the zipper tape towards the edge of the fabric, at the point where the stitching ends, and baste in place. Trim zipper tape along edge of fabric. (NOTE: If you are using a plastic zipper, you do not need to remove any teeth and can sew directly over them when you secure down the fold.)

View A

10. Sew side front (4 A/B/C)

to middle front (2) from the top, down to 1” (2.5 cm) above the upper circle – leave open from this point down.

2 3

3

4

11. Repeat step 10 with

2

© Cashmerette 2023

other side front (4 A/B/C) and right center front (1).

2

1

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  19  

View B

12. Pin side front (4 A/B/C) to middle front (2),

matching notches, and sew. Clip into seam allowance around bust curve as required to get the seam to lie flat, press seam allowances towards the side, then topstitch seam allowance to side front (4 A/B/C). Repeat with left (as worn) side front (4 A/B/C) and the right center front (1).

Once it’s accurate, sew with a regular stitch length. Back stitch carefully at each circle marking. right side up. With right center front (1) facing right side up, draw a line connecting the two circle markings, this will be the stitching line for your zipper.

2 3

4

4. Flip zipper over so it is

5. Place right center 4

3

2

front (1) on top of side front (4), so that the right side 4 1 of zipper is facing right side of right center front (1), and pin free edge of zipper tape to right center front (1). Flip over so that the zipper is facing up. Using a zipper foot, baste zipper to right center front (1), making sure the stitching line on the zipper is as close to the zipper teeth as you can get and matches the stitching line drawn. Check that you sewed accurately between the circles, and that the top and bottom of both sides of the zip are aligned exactly – if not, re-baste. Sew over basting, back stitching at each circle marking.

4

1

SEW FRONT POCKETS – View A only 1. If your zippers are longer than 6” (15 cm), shorten

them so that they are 6” (15 cm) long between the zipper stop at the bottom and the zipper stop at the top. Watch a tutorial at cashmerette. com/shortenzip

2. On right side front

(4 A/B/C) (as worn), apply zipper interfacing (INT 1) to wrong side of fabric, centered over the two circle markings and aligned with the cut edge.

View as sewn:

4 4

1



View from back:

3. With side front (4 A/B/C)

facing right side up, draw a line with chalk or a temporary marker connecting the two circle markings – this will be the stitching line for your zipper. Place zipper right side down with zipper stop just above the bottom circle, and teeth facing this line. Baste using a zipper foot, making sure the stitching line on the zipper is as close to the zipper teeth as you can get and matches the stitching line drawn. Check stitching, and re-baste if needed.

© Cashmerette 2023

1

1

4

NOTE: You may need to sew half the seam,

then move the zipper pull to the other side and continue sewing the remainder of the seam. The Canton Moto Jacket  |  20  

6. Snip into seam allowances of

9. Fold main body in half, right sides together, at

the fabric of both the right center front (1) and side front (4 A/B/C) (not the zipper tape) at an angle ending just before the circles, as shown.

7. Make sure zipper pull is on

right side of the pocket opening (you may need to unzip the zip slightly). Continue sewing side front (4 A/B/C) to right center front (1) from top down to the cut edge at the pocket, folding zipper tape out of the way. Clip into seam allowances around bust curve as required for seam allowance to lay flat, and press open. NOTE: Seam allowance of zipper opening is 5 ⁄8” (1.6 cm) and remaining seam is ½” (12 mm), so the stitching lines will not meet directly.

top of the zipper, so that the ends of the zipper tape and the triangular flaps of seam allowance created in the previous steps are extending past the edge. Using a zipper foot, sew across the zipper tape and the triangular flaps, as close as possible to the folded body, with the wrong side of the seam allowance against the right side of the zipper tape. Fold fabric back and press top of zipper and seam allowance flat on right and wrong side.

1

4

1

4

4

1

1

4

8. Sew from lower edge of the

pocket to the bottom, folding zipper tape out of the way. Press seam allowance open.

10. Repeat step 9 with the bottom of the zipper.

4

1

4

1

1

4

11. Fold side front (4 A/B/C) and right center front

(1) right sides together, with the seam allowance extended out.

1

© Cashmerette 2023

4

1

4

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  21  

12. Pin outer pocket bag (5) to the extended seam

allowance of the side front (4 A/B/C), through the shell and zipper tape, lining up raw edges and circles. Using a zipper foot, sew between the circles along the zipper teeth (you will be able to feel the zipper through the pocket fabric). NOTE: You may need to sew half the seam, then move the zipper pull to the other side and continue sewing the remainder of the seam.

15. Flip pocket back over to right center front (1) and

press away from zipper teeth. Pin edges to keep it in place during next steps. 1

4

6 1

5

4

5

16. Topstitch right

13. Flip pocket back over to side front

(4 A/B/C) and press away from zipper teeth. Pin edges to keep it in place during next steps.

1

4

center front (1) seam allowance to right center front (1), ¼” (6 mm) from seam line. At the pocket, pivot and topstitch around zipper opening. Make sure you do not catch the outer pocket bag (5) in the stitching.

4

1

5

17. Fold outer pocket (5) 14. Fold side front (4 A/B/C) and right center front

(1) right sides together again. Pin inner pocket bag (6) to the extended seam allowance of the right center front (1), through the shell and zipper tape, lining up raw edges and circles. Repeat step 12 with inner pocket bag (6).

1

4

5 6

© Cashmerette 2023

over inner pocket (6), pin, and sew around curved edge, starting and stopping at the topstitching – this will leave a small gap at the top and bottom of the pocket. Be sure to sew only through the pocket layers.

1

4

5

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  22  

SEW BACK

18. From the right side,

topstitch around the pocket opening starting at the existing topstitching 4 1 line, sewing across the top of the zipper, pivoting at the corner and stitching along the zipper opening, pivoting again at the bottom of the zipper and finishing at the existing topstitching line at the bottom of the zipper. (This stitching will close the holes in the pocket left in previous step).

1. Sew dart in back (7). Press dart towards center

back. Repeat with second back (7) piece.

NOTE:

● View

A: Start sewing in the center of the dart and sew to the bottom edge, then flip over and sew from the center to the top of the dart.

7

7

19. Optional: If your fabric does not press well

(for instance if you are using vinyl or leather), topstitch side front (4 A/B/C) seam allowance to side front (4 A/B/C) to help keep it flat. Topstitch ¼” (6 mm) from seam line from the top of the seam to the pocket and then from the bottom of the pocket to the bottom of the seam. 20.  Repeat steps 2 – 19

4

with left (as worn) side front (4 A/B/C) and the middle front (2). NOTE: In the diagrams, where right center front (1) is shown, the middle front (2) will be the second side.

1



● View

B: The lower end of the dart will disappear off the bottom of the fabric. Start sewing at the lower edge of the fabric and sew to the top of the dart.

7

7

2. Sew backs (7) together down center back seam,

right sides together, matching notches. Press seam allowances open and topstitch down either side of the seam at ¼” (6 mm) from seam line.

7

3

© Cashmerette 2023

2

4

7

7

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  23  

SEW BODY

2. Sew top collar (9) to assembled under collar (8),

1. Sew assembled front to back at shoulder seams,

right sides together. Press seam allowances open.

2

1

4

right sides together, along short edges and long straight edge. Because the under collar is slightly smaller, the collar won’t lay flat at this point. Clip corners, turn right side out and use a point turner to gently press out the corners. Press, making sure that seam is slightly rolled to undercollar side, and then topstitch around the short and straight edges at ¼” (6 mm) from edge. Baste all layers together along the bottom curved edge.

44

3

9

5 12

9

2. Sew assembled front to back at side seams, right

sides together, matching notches. Press seam allowances open.

9 2

1 3. Pin assembled collar to neckline with undercollar

4

3

44

5

SEW COLLAR 1. With right sides together, sew the two under

facing right side of shell. Match notches on collar to shoulder seams and the ends of the collars with the notches on the center front (3) and right center front (1). Baste at 3 ⁄8” (1 cm) seam allowance.

3

2

4

7

7

44

1

collar (8) pieces together along center back seam. Press seam open.

8

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  24  

SEW SLEEVES

5. With outer sleeve (10) facing right side up, draw

a line connecting the two circle markings, this will be the stitching line for the zipper. Flip zipper over, then place outer sleeve (10) on top, so that the right side of zipper is facing right side of outer sleeve (10) and pin free edge of zipper tape to outer sleeve (10).

1. If your zippers are longer than 5” (13 cm) you will

need to shorten them so that they are 5” (13 cm) long between the zipper stop at the bottom and the zipper stop at the top. Watch a tutorial at cashmerette.com/shortenzip

2. Apply zipper interfacing (INT1) to wrong side of

outer sleeve (10) and inner sleeve (11), centered over the two circle markings and aligning with the cut edge.

11 10

10

11

6. Flip over so zipper tape is facing up and baste

using a zipper foot, making sure the stitching line on the zipper is as close to the zipper teeth as you can get and matches the stitching line drawn. Check that you sewed accurately between the circles, and that the top and bottom of both sides of the zip are aligned exactly – if not, re-baste. Sew over basting, backstitching at each circle marking.

3. Sew outer sleeve (10)

to inner sleeve (11) along the back seam (with double notches) from top down to 1” (2.5 cm) above the upper marked circle.

10

View as sewn: View from back:

11

4. With inner sleeve (11)

facing right side up, draw a line with chalk or temporary marker connecting the two circle markings, this will be the stitching line for your zipper. Place zipper right side down with zipper stop just below the upper circle, and teeth facing the inner sleeve over this line. Baste using a zipper foot, making sure the stitching line on the zipper is as close to the zipper teeth as you can get 11 and matches the stitching line drawn. Check stitching, and re-baste if needed. Once it’s accurate, sew with a regular stitch length. Backstitch carefully at each circle marking.

© Cashmerette 2023

10 11

10

10

7. Unzip the zipper.

10

At the lower circles on outer sleeve (10) and inner sleeve (11), fold the zipper tape towards the fabric edge and baste in place through zipper tape and seam allowance only. Trim excess zip tape.

11

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  25  

8. Snip into seam allowances

of the fabric (not the zipper tape) of both the outer sleeve (10) and inner sleeve (11) at an angle ending ust before the upper circle as shown. Continue sewing seam between outer sleeve (10) and lower sleeve (11) from top down to the cut edge.

11. Pin other edge of

gusset (12) to outer sleeve (10), lining up raw edges and circles. Using a zipper foot, sew from upper circle to lower circle, and then to lower edge at ½” (12 mm) seam allowance.

10

allowance between outer sleeve (10) and inner sleeve (11) open and fold sleeve in half right sides 10 together (as on 11 p.21). Using a zipper foot, sew seam allowance to top of zipper tape through zipper tape and seam allowance triangles, with the wrong side of the seam allowance against the right side of the zipper tape. Fold fabric back and press top of zipper and seam allowance flat on the right and wrong side.

10. Open zip. Pin gusset (12) to the seam allowance

and zipper tape of the inner sleeve (11), lining up raw edges and circles. Using a zipper foot, sew from upper circle to lower circle, and then to lower edge at ½” (12 mm) seam allowance. NOTE: You may need to sew half the seam, then move the zipper pull to the other side and continue sewing the remainder of the seam.

11

© Cashmerette 2023

(10) seam allowance to outer sleeve (10), pivoting at top of gusset and continuing to hem. Sew a second line of topstitching across the top of the zipper and down the other side. Optional: If your fabric does not press well (eg vinyl or leather), topstitch the inner sleeve (11) seam allowance to the inner sleeve (11) from top of the sleeve to zipper opening.

11

10

13. Sew outer sleeve (10) to inner sleeve (11), right

sides together, along the front seam (with single notch). Press seam allowance open.

14. Fold sleeve hem to wrong side by

1½” (3.8 cm) and press. DO NOT SEW.

15. Repeat steps 1 – 14 for other outer sleeve (10),

inner sleeve (11), and gusset (12). 10

11

10

11

12. Topstitch outer sleeve

9. Press seam

10

10

10

11

11

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  26  

INSERT SLEEVES

ATTACH SHOULDER PADS

1. Sew two lines of long

1. With jacket inside out, place shoulder pad on

gathering stitches (4 – 5 mm) on sleeve cap between notches within the seam allowance. Gently pull on gathering stitches to curve seam allowance.

10

2. Pin sleeve into armscye of

11

jacket, right sides together, matching notches. The sleeve cap notch matches the shoulder seam and the underarm notch matches the side seam of the jacket. Slowly sew, gently easing the fabric where necessary to get a smooth, pucker-free seam.

10 1

shoulder seam, with straight side aligned with outer edge of seam allowance at armscye and curved end stopping around 1” (2.5 cm) from neck. Fold shoulder pad in half and use a hand needle and thread to sew center of shoulder pad to shoulder seam allowance. Hand sew straight edge of shoulder pad to sleeve seam allowance with a running stitch. Repeat with second shoulder pad and shoulder seam.

1

4

7 4

3. Gently press the seam allowance towards the

1

sleeve. Trim the lower section of the armscye seam allowance in half between the notches as shown.

4

Your shell is now complete! 10 1

7 4

10

10 4

1 3

4

4. Repeat steps 1 – 3 for second sleeve.

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  27  

SEW FRONT LINING

1. Sew side front lining (13 A/B/C) to middle

front lining (14), right sides together, matching notches. Press seam allowance towards middle front, clipping the seam allowance as necessary around the bust curve to allow it to lie flat. Repeat for other side front lining (13 A/B/C) and middle front lining (14).

2. Sew back facing (16) to assembled back lining

(15), right sides together, matching notches. Press seam allowance towards lining and topstitch seam allowance to back lining (15) at ¼” (6 mm) from seam line. 16

14

15

15

14

413

13

3

16

15

15

2. Sew center front (3) facing to middle front lining

(14) ending 2” (5 cm) from the bottom. Press seam allowance towards lining. Repeat for other center front (3) facing and middle front lining (14).

CREATE HANGING LOOP (OPTIONAL)

SEW BACK LINING

1. Sew back linings (15) right side together, down

center back seam. Line up notches along top edge and press pleat to one side. Baste the pleat in place within the seam allowance. Press remainder of seam in same direction.

1. Cut a piece of twill tape 4” (10 cm) long. Fold the

tape into a wide loop and place the loop along the back neckline, ¾” (1.9 of the 14 cm) either side 3 center notch, with loop facing the body. Baste in place at ¼” (6 mm) seam allowance.

15 16

15

© Cashmerette 2023

15

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  28  

ASSEMBLE LINING

INSERT SLEEVE LINING

1. Sew front lining to back lining at shoulder seams,

1. Insert lining sleeves into lining body following the

right sides together. Press seam allowances open.

steps for INSERT SLEEVES. (See page 27)

2. Sew front lining to back lining at side seams, right

sides together, matching notches. Press seam allowances open.

17

14

14

13

14

13

17 13

3

14

13

3

ATTACHING LINING TO SHELL 1. Fold the hem extension on the shell to wrong

side by 1½” (3.8 cm), press, and unfold.

SEW SLEEVE LINING

3

1. Sew outer sleeve

lining (17) to inner sleeve lining (18) down back seam (with double notches), right sides together, matching notches. Press seam allowance towards outer sleeve lining (17).

3. Repeat steps 1 – 2

4

7

7

44

1

17

18

2. Flip zipper on right

center front (1) to right side (as it was originally sewn before it was pressed over), so that the zipper teeth are 7 7 facing the side seam.

2. Sew inner sleeve

lining (18) to outer sleeve lining (17) down front seam (with single notch), right sides together, matching notches. Press seam allowance towards inner sleeve lining (18).

2

1

17

18

with second outer sleeve lining (17) and inner sleeve lining (18).

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  29  

3. Lay shell and lining pieces out flat with right sides

together and the shell hem unfolded. The collar should be sandwiched between the two layers, and the unfolded shell hem will extend past the lining. Pin body to facing around neckline, right sides together, matching notches. Sew. Clip into neckline where the collar is attached and grade seam allowance as required.

5. Align the lower raw edge of the center front

(3) facing and right center front (1), right sides together. Sew from front edge to inner seam allowance (½” /12 mm from end of center front (3) facing). Clip from corner of right center front (1) to end of stitching as shown.

16 3

14

14

13

15

15

13

14

4

1

3

3

6. Align the lower raw edge of the second center

13

4. Pin shell to lining along front edges. On the right

front (3) facing to center front (3), right sides together. Sew from front edge to inner seam allowance (½”/12 mm from end of center front (3) facing).

hand side (as worn), make sure that the zipper is sandwiched between the right center front (1), and the center front (3) facing, with zip tape at the edge and teeth facing the side seam. Sew (using a zipper foot on the right hand front), clip corners, and grade seam allowance. Repeat for second center front edge. NOTE: You may need to move your zipper pull when sewing the right hand front to sew the whole seam.

3

14

13

2

4

7. Pull lining down so that the lower edge of the 16 3

14

14

13

15

15

3

lining aligns with the lower edge of the shell. Pin, right sides together, matching seams. Sew, starting at one end of one middle front lining (14) and finishing at the end of the other middle front lining (14) leaving a 6” (15 cm) gap in the center back of the seam as shown. 16

13 3

14

14

13

© Cashmerette 2023

15

15

3

13

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  30  

The following steps can be a little tricky if you’re doing it for the first time! For a video tutorial see cashmerette.com/cantonlining 8. On the left-hand side (with jacket lining side up),

spread apart the shell and lining sections at the hem and look at it from the bottom, so that there is a continuous seam (with a gap in it) between the middle front (2) and middle front lining (14) on the right-hand side, and the shell and facing center front (3) on the left hand side. 14 Center front hem edge

3 (facing) 3 (shell)

2

10. On the right-

hand side (with jacket lining side up), fold the seam allowance 14 3 between the center front (3) facing and the middle front lining (14) 1 (extension) towards the center front facing and fold 3 (folded seam allowance) the right center front (1) hem extension up, so that there is a continuous seam (with a gap in it) between the extension of the right center front (1) and the middle front lining (14) on the left, and the center front (3) facing on the right.

11. Fold the center front (3) facing back, and pinch

together the gap in the seam, folding the middle front lining (14) onthe itself behind right Needback to add remainder of the 1 at the below extension and the hem center front bottom extension (1)the until it’s flat. Baste the of 1 (extension) should come down a lot gap in the seam shut. lower, almost the end of the extension.

9. Fold the two center fronts (3)

back, and pinch together the gap in the seam, folding the middle front lining (14) back on itself behind the middle front (2) until it’s flat. Baste the gap in the seam shut.

Fold 3 back

14 14

Fold 3 back 2

1 (extension)

From right side:

From right side: 3 (seam allowance)

From right side: Turn this corner right side out (through the gap in center back of the hem) and check it looks correct on the outside. If it does, turn back and sew at a regular stitch length.

© Cashmerette 2023

From right side: 3 (facing)

14

2

Turn this corner right side out (through the gap in the center back of the hem) and check it looks correct on the outside. If it does, turn back and sew at a regular stitch length.

14

3 (facing)

1 The Canton Moto Jacket  |  31  

12. Turn jacket right side out through gap at the

center back hem. Gently turn out all corners. Press. The hem of the shell jacket should be turned up at the pressed line and the lining will fold down below the lower seam at the edge of the facing to form a pleat.

the lining sleeve, so the sleeve hem and lining are right sides together, and the main and lining sleeve seams are matching and not twisted. Pin around the raw edges. TIP: Safety pin the sleeve

hems together first and turn right way out to make sure it’s not twisted before sewing.

17

9 16 3

2. Slide the main sleeve hem (still folded back) into

14

14

3

18 10 12

13

15

15

11

13

3. Sew the hems together at ½” (12 mm) seam

allowance, ensuring that you only sew through the two hems and not the rest of the sleeve.

SEW SLEEVE HEMS 1. Push main and lining sleeves separately back

inside jacket. Reach inside jacket through the hem and pull one lining and one corresponding main sleeve out through the hole in the hem ensuring that the side seams of the sleeves are symmetrical.

17 10 12

18

11 4. Ensuring the main sleeve hem is still folded back

77

17

10 18

11

at the pre-pressed line (you can fold the lining sleeve inside the main sleeve to make it easy to check), use a hand needle to tack the sleeve hem to the sleeve front seam allowance with a few stitches (this stops the hem of the sleeve falling down). Push sleeve back through gap in lining to the right side.

18

14 11

17

10

5. Repeat steps 1 – 4 with second set of sleeves.

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  32  

FINISH

3. Reach into jacket through gap in bottom hem

1. Topstitch up the center front (3), around neckline

and down right center front (1) at ¼” (6 mm) from edge.

3

2 4

7

7

and join together the armhole seam allowance of the lining and main fabric at the underarm. This can be done using a 3” (7.6 cm) long, ½” (12 mm) wide piece of lining fabric, or by creating a 2” (5 cm) long thread chain and sewing one end to the lining seam allowance and one end to the main seam allowance. This keeps the lining in place when the jacket is worn, while still allowing it to move. Repeat on second side.

1

7

15

2. Insert snap cap and socket, with cap facing out

when worn, at the 4 circle markings. NOTE: These snaps are for decoration only and are not functional. There are no corresponding studs and posts installed. back of snap

4

13

4. Reach again into the jacket through the open

section at the back hem. Make sure the main fabric hem is folded up at the pressed line. Using a hand needle, tack the hem to the side seam allowance of the main fabric with a few stitches (the same method as used for the sleeve hems). Repeat on second side seam and center back seam.

5. At the open area of the lining on the hem, turn 3

2 4

7

7

1

the seam allowance of the lining to the wrong side by ½” (12 mm) and align the raw edge of the lining with the raw edge of the shell. Using a hand needle, slip or ladder stitch the open section of lining to main hem.

15

© Cashmerette 2023

15

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  33  

Congratulations – you made an amazing Canton Moto Jacket! WE WANT TO SEE YOUR LOVELY JACKE TS! Share them with us using the hashtag #CantonJacket to: Instagram: @cashmerette Twitter: @cashmerette Facebook: cashmerette.com/FacebookGroup

SEWING FOR CURVES © Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  34  

© Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  35  

Join Jenny on a monthly journey to sew your own wardrobe that fits, with exclusive patterns, fitting masterclasses, live events, and more!

WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT MONTHLY PATTERNS Build your wardrobe with memberexclusive PDF sewing patterns in sizes 0-32 and cup sizes C-H.

LIVE EVENTS Join Jenny and the worldwide Club community to talk about all things sewing and fitting – can’t make it live? They’re recorded so you can watch them any time!

FITTING MASTERCLASSES Jenny teaches a new online fit masterclass each month, deep diving into a range of fitting topics. As a Plus or All Access Club member, you can watch each video on your own time, as many times as you’d like!

COMMUNITY Share your makes, questions, and thoughts with other Club members in our exclusive online Clubhouse. PLUS EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNTS AND MORE

Learn more and sign up now from just $9/month at cashmerette.com/club © Cashmerette 2023

The Canton Moto Jacket  |  36  

Plan and sketch your wardrobe on a body figure that looks just like you! MyBodyModel makes custom fashion croquis templates (body outline sketches) with your real body measurements. Get your own printable and digital fashion sketchbook and draw your fashion designs on a body model that looks like you.

MyBodyModel is free to try! Enter your measurements using our measurements guide and get your free body model preview. You can even fine tune your body model until it looks just right before you purchase.

Download a custom sketchbook and start designing Every download purchase includes front and back views of your body model. Print to sketch on paper, or sketch digitally with any drawing app.

5 ways to use MyBodyModel ●

See how clothes will look on your body shape

●

Try out patterns, fabrics, & yarn before committing

●

Plan an intentional wardrobe

●

Try new looks & explore your personal style

●

Plan your sewing or knitting projects with confidence! Preview your MyBodyModel free at

© Cashmerette 2023

mybodymodel.com The Canton Moto Jacket  |  37