Honda Cbr400rr 9781859605523, 1859605524

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HAYNES SERVICE & REPAIR MANUAL

CBR400RR (nC23 Tri-Arm &nC29 GUll-Arm) '88 to '99

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Honda CBR400RR Service and Repair Manual by Matthew Coombs Models covered

(3552-256)

Honda CBR400RR-J and K (NC23) Tri-Arm. 399 ce. 1985-on Honda CBR400RR- L, Nand R (NC29) Gull-Arm/FireBlade. 399 ce. 1990-on Note: This manual does not include the CBR400R Aero, C8-J or CB400 Sup er Four.

C Hames Publishing 1999 A book In the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights I'l!served. No part of this bQok may be reproduced or transmitted In any f orm or by any means, electroni c or mechanical, Including photocopyin g, recording or by any informatiOIl storage or retrieval system, without permission ill wrltlllg from the copyright holder. ISBN 1 85960 552 4

British library Catalogulllg ill Publicatloll Deta A eatatogUB record for this book Is available from thi! British Ubra ry

Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd ., Sparkford, Nr Veovil , Somerset, BA22 7JJ , England Haynes Publishing Sparklord, Nr Yeovi l, Somerset, BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc B61 Lawraflce Drive. Newbury Park , California 91320, USA Editions Haynes SA Tour Aurora - La Dl!fen se 2, 18 Place des Rellets. 92975 Paris La Defense, CedeK, France

Haynes Publishing Nordlska AB 801> 1504. 75145 UPPSAlA. Swedell

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR HONDA CBR Introduction Page Page

a0·7·'

About this manual

Page

Identification numbers

Page

Buying spare parts

Page

Unofficial (grey) imports

Page

0·7 0·8 0·8 0·8

Safety firstl

Page 0-10

The Birth of a Dream

Acknowledgements

Daily (pre-ride checks) Engine/t ransmission oil level c heck

Page 0-11

Brake fluid level checks

Page 0-12

Coolanl level check

Page 0-13

Suspension, steering and final drive checks

Page 0-13 Page 0-14 Page 0-14

l yre checks Legal and safety checks

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Specifications

Page

Recommended lubricants and fl uids

Page

Maint enance schedule

Page

Component locations

Page

Maintenance procedures

Page

,., '·2 '·3 ,., '·6

Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine, transmission and associated systems Engine, clutch and transmission

Page

2-1

Cooling system

Page

3-1

Fuel and exhaust systems Ignition system

..,

Chassis and bodywork components

Tyres

Page Page 7" Page 7-14 Page 7-20

Fairing and bodywork

Page

s·,

Electrical system

Page

9"

Wiring diagrams

Page 9-26

Frame, suspension and final drive Brakes

Wheels

REFERENCE Dimensions and Weights

Page REF·1

Tools and Workshop Tips

Page REF·2

Conversion factors

Page REF-20

Motorcycle Chemicals and Lubricants MOT Test Checks

Page REF-21 Page REF-22

Storage

Page REF-26

Fault Rnding

Page REF.28

Faull Finding Equipment

Page REF-36

Technical Terms Explained

Page REF-40

Index

Page REF-44

0. 4

Introduction

The Birth of a r

- r

by Julian Ryder here Is no better example 01 the Japanese post-War industrial miracle Ihan Honda. Uke other companies which have become household names. it started WIth one man's vision. In this case the man was the 40-year old Selehiro Honda who had sold his piston-ring manufacturing business to Toyota in 1945 and was happily spending the proceeds on prolonged parties lor his friends. However. the difficu lties of getting around in the chaos of post-War Japan Irked Honda, so when he came across a Job lot 01 generalOf' engines ne realised that here was a way of getting people mobile again at low cosl. A 12 by 18-foot shack in Hamamalsu became his Ilrst bike factory, littlng the

T

1970 Ho nda

e90 OHV-engined model

generatOf' mOlors into pushblkes. BefOfe long he'd used up all 500 generator motors and started manufacturing his own engine, known as the 'chimney', either because of the elongated cylinder head or the smoky exhaust or perhaps both. The chimney made all of half a horsepower from its 50 cc engine but it was a major success and became the Honda Atype. Less than two years after he'd set up In Hamamatsu, Solch lro Honda founded the Honda Motor Company In September 1948. By then, the A-type had been developed Into the 90 cc B-type engine, which Mr Honda decided deserved lis own chassis not a bicycle frame. Honda was about to become Japan's first post-War manufacturer of complete motOfcycles. In August 1949 the f1rst prototype was ready With an output of three horsepower, the 98 cc O-type was st ili a

sImple two-stroke but it had a two-speed transmission and most imponantly a pressed steel frame With telescopic forks and hard lail rear end. The frame was atmost tnangutar in profile wlth the top rail gOing In a straight lloe from the massively braced steering head to the rear a){ie. Legend has It that after the O-type's first tests the en tire workforce went lor a drink 10 celebra'e and try and think 01 a name for the bike. One man broke one 0 1 those silences you get wh en people are thinking, e){Clalming 'This Is like a dream!' 'That's It" shouted Honda. and so the Honda Dream was christened.

'This is like a dream!' 'That's it' shouted Honda

M

r Honda was a brlttlan t , intuitive engineer and designer but he did not bother himself with the marketing side of his business. With hindsight, It IS possible to see that employing Takeo FUJlsawa who would both sort out the home market and plan the eventual e){pansion Into overseas markets was a masterstroke. He arrived in October 1949 and In 1950 was made Sales Olrector. Another vital new name was Kiyoshl Kawashima, who along with Honda himself, designed th e company's first four-stroke atter Kawashim a had told them that the four·stroke opposit Ion to Honda's two-strokes sounded nicer and Iherefore sold bel tef. The result of that statement was the overhead-valve 148 cc E-type which first ran in July 1951 jusllwo months after the fir!>! drawings were ｭｾ､･Ｎ＠ Kawa.shllTlfl wa.s made a director of the Honda Company at 34 years old, The E-type was a massive success, over 32,000 W9fe made in 1953 alone. bu t Honda's lifelong pursui t of technical Innovation sometimes distracted him from commercial reality. FuJisawa pointed out that they were In danger of Ignoring their core business, the motorised bicycles that still formed Japan's maIn means of transport. In May 1952 the F-Iype Cub appeared, another two-stroke despite the top men·s reservations. You could buy a complete machine Of just the motor to attach to your own bicycle. The result was certainly dlsl1nctive, a white fuel tank with a circular profile went just below and behind the saddle on the left of the bike, and the motor wIth its horizontal cylinder and bright red cover Just below the rear axle on the same side 01 the bike. This was th a machine that turned Honda into the biggest bike maker In Japan

Introduction

0.5

The CB250N Super Dream became a favorite with UK lea mer rid ers of the late seventies and early eighties

with 70% of the market lor bolton bicycle motors. the F-type was also the first Honda to be exported. Next came the machine that would tum Honda into the biggest motorcycle manufacturer in the world. The C100 Super Cub was a typically audacious piece o f Honda engineering and markellng. For the first time, but not the last. Honda invented a completely new type of motorcycle. although the term 'scooterelle' was coined to describe the new bike which had many of the characteristics of a scooter but the large wheels. and th erefore stability. of a motorcycle. The first one was sold In August 1958, fi fteen years later over nlnemillion of them were on the roads of the world. If ever a machine can be said to have brought mobility to the masses it is t he Super Cub. If you add in the electric starter that was added for the C102 model of 1961 , the design of the Super Cub has remained substantially unchanged ever since. testament to how right Honda got it first time. The Super Cub made Honda the world 's biggest manufacturer after just two years of production. onda'S exp0r1 drive started in earnest In 1957 when Britain and Holland got their first bikes, America got just two bikes the next year. By 1962 Honda had half the American market wlth 65,000 sales. Bu t Soichlfo Honda had already tra velled abroad to Europe and the USA. making a special point 01 going to Ihe Isle of Man TT. then the most Important race in the GP calendar. He realised that no matter how advanced his products were. only racing success wou ld convince overseas markets

H

fOf whom 'Made in Japan' stili meant cheap and nasty. It took five years from Soichlro Honda's first visit to the Island before his bikes were ready for the TT. In 1959 the factory antered five riders In the 125. They did not have a massive impact on the event being benevolenlly regarded as a curiosity, but sixth, seventh and eigh th were good enough for the team prize.

The bikes were off the pace but they were well engineered and very reliable, The TT was the only time the West saw the Hondas in '59. bu t they came back for more tl1e fol lOWing year with the first of a generation of bikes which shaped the future of motorcycling the double-overhead·cam four-cylinder 250. II was fast and reliable - It revved 10 14 ,000 rpm -

The GL1000 introduced in 1975, was the lirst In Honda's line of Gotdwings

0·6

Introduction

but didn't handle anywhere near as well as 1M opposition. However, Honda had now

signed up non-Japanese riders to lead their challenge. The first win didn't come until 1962

(Aussie Tom Phillis In the Spanish 125 GP) and was followed up with a world-shaking performance at the TT. Twenty-one year old MIke Hailwood won both 125 and 250 cc TIs and Hondas filled the top flve positions In botn

races. Soichiro Honda's master plan was starting to come to fn..lltlon, Hailwood and Honda won the 1961 250 cc World Championship. Next year Honda won three titles. The other Japanese factories fought back

and inspired Honda to produce some of the most fascinating racers ever seen: the awesome six-cylinder 250, the five-cylinder 125, and the 500 four with which the Immortal Hailwood battled Agostini and the MV Agusta When Honda pUlled ou t of racing In '67 they had won sb:tean rider 's tit les, eighteen manufacturer's titles. and 137 GPs, Including 18 TTs. and Introduced I he concept of Ihe modern works te am to motorcycle racing . Sales success followed racing victory as Soichiro Honda had predicted, but only because the products ｡､ｾｮ｣･＠ as rapidly as the racing machinery. The Hondas that came to Bntain in the early '60s were incredibly sophisticated. They had overhead cams where An early CB750 Four

Carl Fogarty in action at Donington on the RC45

the British biKes had pushrads, they had electric starters when the Brits relied on the kiCkstan. they had 12V eleclrics when even Ihe biggest British bike used a SV system. There seemed no end to the techn ical wizardry and when in 19S8 the first four-cylinder CB750

road bike arrived the world changed for ever. They even had to invent a new word lar it: superblke. Honda raced again with the CB750 at Daytona and won the World Endurance titl a wilh a prototype DQHC version that became the CB900 roadsler. There was the sixcylinder CBX. the firsl turbocharged production bike, they Invented the lUll-dress tourer wilh the Goldwing and came back to GPs w ith the revolutionary ova l-pisloned NR500 four-strOke. a much-misunderstood bike that was more rOiling experiment than racer. It was true, though. that Mr Honda was not keen on two-st rokes - early motocross engines had to be explained away to him as lawnmowBf motors! However, in 1982 Honda raced Ihe NS500, an agile th ree-cyt lnder lightweight against Iha big four_cylillder opposition in 500 GPs. The bike won In the lirst year and in '83 took the world title for Freddie Spencer. In four-stroke racing the V4 layout took over Irom the straight four , dominating TT, Fl and Endurance championships and when Superbike arrived Honda were ready with the RC30. On Ihe roads the VFR V4 became an instant classic while the CBRSOO invented another new class of bike on its way 10 becoming a best-seller. And then there was the NR750. This limitededition technological tour-de-force embodied many of Soichlro Honda's ideals. It used the latest techniques and materials in every component. from the oval-piston. 32-valve V4 motor to the titanium coa ting on the windscreen. It was - as Mr Honda would have wanted . the bes t it could possibly be. A fitting memonal to the man who has shaped the motorcycle industry and motorcycles as we know them today.

Introduction

0·7

Precision Miniatures hen the grey imports phenomenon took off commercially, it bought to the UK two different types 01 bike. To understand Ihe difference you must first understand a few basic facls about the Japanese home market. where the vast majority of these machines came from. Firstly, Japan's draconian licensing system effectively restricted riders to 400 cc fourstrokes and 250 cc two-strokes. Secondly, the Japanese market Is fashion conscious In the extreme. If a manufacturer gels it right Ihen It will sell thousands of units. Get II wrong and your bikes will languish in the showrooms for ever, or until some budding entrepreneur buys them up cheaply and ships them to Europe.

W

So when the greys started landing. UK motorcyclists were not very surprised to discover that there was a 400 cc model In the CBR range beside the 1000 cc spons tourer and the best-seiling CBR600. These were used bikes which those same restrictive laws effectively took off the roads of Japan once they were a few years old. The second type tended to be weird models that had falled Japanese youth's style test and arrived over here hardly used and some times even brand new. Right at the head of the first category was the CBR400RR that first hit Japan's roads In 1988 and instantly stormed to the top of the sales charts. And no wonder. Although the motor was a development 01 the earlier CBR400 Aero that looked just like an early 'jellymould' CSR, the double-R had geardriven cams and an aluminium frame as well as a H-Inch fron t wheel and mouth-watering styling complete with t win-headlamp fairing . Bear in mind that Ihe FireBlade was four years away and the 600 cc CBR had camshafts driven by chains and a tubular steel chassis and you can see why the double-R was such a success. In fact in terms of technology, It was nearer to the RC30 tha t was launched for 1988 and its 400 cc Sibling the NC30. or

VFR400R. as shown by the fact that the 400 cc in-line four also had a factory code: NC23. In fact it was better known as the Tri-Arm, a reference to the sticker on the side of the fairing meant to draw attention to the heavily triangulated swinging arm that looked like it had just been unbolted from a factory racer. The commercia! domination of the Tri -Arm was contlnued in 1990 by the next generation of CBR400RR, the L-model, the first of the Gull-Arms or NC29. Despite Ihe superficial similarities 01 the two bikes. the Gull-Arm was a comp letely new machine whose cycle parts had much in common with the VFR400R including 17 -inch wheels front and rear. The motor's cylinders and upper crankcase half were cast in one piece, again be fore the FireBlade and the CBR600 M-model used the same layout. The bike's name came from the new swinging arm design. again derived from current race -track practice. Instead of Ihe straight, rectangular cross-sectional members, each side of the arm was a single,

massive fabrication . On the right side, it had an elbow bend in it to accommodate the exhaust pipe without compromising ground clearance. Again thIs was copied from Grand Prix practice (despite the real racers being two-strokes) just a year after the design was lirst seen on the track. and it was this feature that gave the bike the Gull-Arm name. The smaller bike has regularly been given the same colour schemes as the bigger Blade and has basically remained otherwise unchanged. There have been minor adjustments and the claimed power output has even gone down a fraction and the weight up by a kilogram ｾ＠ jusl.like on the 400 cc V4s. When the 900 cc FlreBlade hit world markets and revolutionised the sports bike market sector in 1992 the Gull-Arm got the same paintwork and even a FireBlade slicker on the fairing. Even though the 400 was the earlier design, it was Immediately (or rather lately) christened the Baby Blade and as far as anyone can tell became the best-selling grey Import machine In Ihe UK.

Acknowledgements

About this Manual

ur thanks are due to Elliott Motorcycles of Swindon who supplied Ihe machines featured In the illustrations throughout this manual and provided technical literat ure. We would also like to thank NGK Spark Plugs (UK) Ud for supplying the colour spark plug condition photos and the Avon Rubber Company for supplying information on tyre fitting. The Introduction 'The Birth of a Dream' was written by Julian Ryder.

e aim of this manual is to help you get the besl value from your motorcycle. It ,-: can do so In several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done, even if you choose to have it done by a dealer; It provIdes information and procedures for routine maintenance and servicing: and !t offers diagnostic and repair procedures to follow when trouble occurs. We hope you use the manual to tackle the work yourself. For many simpler jobs, doing It yourself may be quicker than arranging an apPointment to get the motorcycle Into a dealer and making the trips to leave it and pick It up. More Importantly. a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the expense the

shop must pass on to you to cover (ts (abour and overhead costs. An added benefit is the sense of satisfaction and accomplishment thaI you fee! after doing the job yoursel f. References to the left or righl side of the motorcycle assume you are sitting on the seat, facing forward.

O

NC23 Tri-Arm - the first CBR400RR

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but motorcycle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular motorcycle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from , the information given.

o·a Identification numbers Tile frame serial number is stamped Into the

number and carburettor Identlf!cation number

right side of Ihe steering head. The engine

should also be kept In a handy place (such as with your driver's licence) so they are always

number Is stamped Into the right upper side of the crankcase, directly above Ihe clutch unit. Both of these numbers should be recorded and kept in a safe place so they can be furnished to law enforcement officials In the event of a theft. The carburettor number Is stamped into Ihe back of each carburettor. The frame serial number, engine serial

Model, (;Qdll and production year

Frame

CBR400RA-J (1988)

available when purchasing or ordering parts

for your machine.

Identifying model years The procedures in this manual identity the bikes by model code. The model code (e.g. CBR400RR-L) Is printed on the colour code

label, which is located on the top of the rear mudguard under the passenger seat. The model code and production year can also be determined from the engine and frame serial numbers in Ihe accompanying table. Note; Do not identify your bIke using the date of registration; In some cases, especially where a new bike has been imported into the UK, the registration dale wi/{ differ considerably 'rom the model code year.

Engine nUlllbtlr

Carburettor number

NC23-102OQOI to 1036454

NC23E-1020001 t01036510

VG04A

CBA400RA-K (1989)

NC23 1090001 to 1098116

NC23E 1090001 101098123

VGQ48

CBA400RA-L (1990 and 91)

NC29-1000001 to 1010598

NC23E 1300001101310636

VPOIA

CBR400RR-N (1992 and 93)

NC29-105OO01 on

NC23E-142oo010n

VPOIA

CBR400RR-R (1994-on)

NC29-1100001 on

NC23E-1500001 on

VP018

Buying spare parts Once you have found all the identification numbers, record them for reference when buymg parts. Since the manufacturers change specifications, parts and vendors (companies that manufacture various components on the machine), providing the 10 numbers Is the only way to be reasonably sure that you are buying the correct parts. Whenever pOSSible, take the worn part to the dealer so dlrec1 comparison with the new component can be made. Along the trail from the manufacturer to the parts shelf, there are numerous places that the part can end up With U1e wrong number or be listed incorrectly. The two places to purchase new parts for your motorcycle - the accessory shop and U1e motorcycle dealer - differ in the type of parts Ihey carry. WI1i1e dealers can obtain virtually every part for your motorcycle, the accessory shop is usually limited to normal high wear items such as shock absorbers, tune-up parts, various engine gaskets. cables, chains. brake parts, etc. Rarely will an accessory outlet have major suspension components. cylinders, transmission gears, or cases.

ｮｵｭｾｲ＠

Used parts can be obtained for rougl1ly naif the price of new ones, but you can't always be sure of what you're getting. Once again, take your worn part to the breaker for direct comparison. WhetheL.buyjng new, used or rebuilt parts, the besl course is to deal dIrectly with someone who specialises in parts fo r your particular make.

Unofficial (grey) imports All CSR400RR models in the UK are unofficial (grey) imports from Japan. The majority are second-hand machines and are allocated age -related licence plates for UK use (the licence plate letter reflects the production year In Japan), although new CBRs are allocated current year UK registratJon letter plates. Common changes made prior to sale in the UK are the disabling of the rev-limi ter device (or more correctly 'speed-limiter' device), which is fitted to comply with Japanese market regulations. The device Is located in the speedometer head and is linked to the

Ignition control unit to cut the Ignillon when 180 kmh (I 12 mph) is reaChed. The importers have several meU10ds of disabling the device, either litting a plug-in unit at the speedometer head or ignition control unit, or by modifying the limiter mechanism. Speedometers calibrated In kilometres (kmh) must have a miles per hour (mph) scale applied. This can be done Simply by applying a suitable overlay to the speedometer lens or a more professional approach is to Ilt one of the replacement dial faces to t he speedometer Itself. In each case It is Important thet the correct size overlay or dial face is used. The ratings of certain bulbs (headlight , Sidelight, brake/tailligh t and tum signal lights) differ from those normally used on UK market machines. Of these, the brake/tail light bulbs will most likely have been replaced wltl1 the regulation 21/5W UK fitment. Nole that restriclor kits can be fitted to the CSR engines 10 reduce their power output to 33 bhp (25 kw) to comply with the UK full standard category A licence. Kits can be obtained from and filted by grey importers.

Identification numbers

The colour code label Is under the passenger seat

The engine number Is stamped on ttle top of the crankcase on the right-hand side of the engine

Oog

The frame number Is stamp9(l on the rlghthand side of the steering head

0' 10

Safety fi rst!

Professional mechanics afe trained In safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job al hand. take the time to ensure that your safety is nol pul at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result In an aCCident, as can failure to observe simple precautions. There will always be new ways of having

accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers: it is lnten(jed rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work

yOU carry out on your bike.

Asbestos • Certain fric tion , insulating, sealing and other products · such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. - contain asbestos.

Extreme care must be taken to avoid Inhalation of dust from such products since it Is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire • Remember at all limes that petrol is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there · a spark caused by an electrical short-cirouit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can Ignite petrol vapour, which In a confined space Is highly explosive. Never use petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use en approved safety solvent.

Remember ... 'It Don't start the engine without first ascertaining that the t ransmission Is In neutral. lC' Don't suddenly remove the pressure cap from a hot cooling system· co .... er It with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. IC Don't ilttelllpi to draln oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you, 'It Don't grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that It Is cool eflOugh not to bum you, 'It Don't allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine's paintwork or plastic components. Jt Don't siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antJIreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. IC Don't inhale dust - it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos heading). 'It Don't allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away. before someone slips on it. 'It Don't use ilt-litting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause injUlY, 'It Don't lilt a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance.

• Always disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spiltlng fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It Is recommended that a fire extinguisher • of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy In the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to exllnguish a fuel or electrical fire WIth water.

Fumes • Certain fumes are highly loxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death It Inhaled 10 any extent. Pelrol vapour comes Into this category. as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. • When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonoos vapoors, • Never run the engine of a motor vehicle In an enClosed space such as a garage, Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which Is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so In the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.

The battery • Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive, 'It Don't rush to finish a Job or take unverified short cuts, 'It Don't allow Children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. lC' Don't Inflate a tyre above the recommended pressure. Apart from overstressing the carcass, in extreme cases the lyre may blow off forcibly. ." Do ensure that the machine is supported securely at all tImes. This IS especially important wheo the machine Is blocked up to aid Wheel or for1l: removal. ." Do take care when attemptlng to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a spanner, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from t he machine rather than onto It. v Do wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc. v Do use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dIrty Jobs - it will protect your skin from Infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. v Do keep loose clothing (cuffs, ties etc. and long hair) well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Always disconnect the battery ground (earth) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems (except where noted). • If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessiVe rate or the battBl)l may burst. • Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, evenwhen diluted. is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes Of skIn. PJways wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrOlyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid,

Electricity • When using an electric power 1001. inspection light etc .• always ensure that the appliance Is correctly connected to Its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded (earthed). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again. beware of creatIng a spark or applying excessive heat In the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. • A severe electric shock can resul t from touching certain parts of the electrical system, such as the sparic: plug wires (HT leads), when the engine is running or being cranked. particularly if components are damp or the Insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignlt!on system Is used. the secondary (HT) voltage Is much higher and could prove fatal.

." Do remove nngs, wristwatch etc.. before working on the vehicle - especfally the electrical system, 11'00 keep your wor1< area tidy - it Is only too easy to fall over art icles left lying around. ." Do exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or lnstallation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released In a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently. v Do eosure that any lifting tackie used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job . ." Do get someone to ch eck periodically that aJi is well, when working alone on the vehicle. ." Do carry out wor1< in a logical sequence and cheCk that everything is correctly assembled and lightened afterwards. V'Do remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others. II In doubt on any point, get professional advice. • If In spite of following these precautions. you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Daily (pre-ride) checks Note: The daily (pre-nde} checks outlined in the owner's manual covers those items which should be inspected on II daily baSIS.

1 Engine/transmission oil level check Before you start: '" Start the engine and aliow il to reach

normal operating temperature. Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as II garage or worl(shop. ..... Stop the engine and support the motorcycle In an upright posi tion, using an auxiliary stand it re quired, Allow It to stand

undisturbed lor a few minutes to allow Ihe all level to stabilise. Make sure the motorcycle is on level ground.

Bike care: • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. If there is no sign of oil leakage from the joints and gaskets the engine could be burning oil (see Faull Finding).

0' 11

The correct oil • Modern, high-revving engines p lace great demands on their all. It is very Important that the correct oil for your bike Is used. • Always lop up wi1h a good Quality oil of lhe specified type and viscosity and do not overfill the engine. Oil type

Oil viscosity

ｾｲ｡､･＠

SE, SF SAE 10W4Q

r

1

Unscrew the oil filler cap (arrowed) from the right-hand crankcase cover. The dipstick is integral with the all filler cap, and Is used to check the engine oil leVel.

2

Using a cl ean rag or paper towel, wipe off all the oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick back into the engine, but do not screw it in.

3

Remove the dipstick and observe the level of the oil, which should be somewhere In between the upper and lower level tines (arrowed).

4

If the level is below the lower line, top the engine up with the recommended grade and type of oil, to bring the level up to the upper line on the dipstick. Do not overfill.

0' 12

Daily (pre-ride) checks

2 Brake fluid level checks

A , •

Warning: Brake hydraulic flUId can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme- cBution when handling and pouring it and cover surrounding surfaces with rag. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as It absorbs mOisture from the air which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Before you start:

Bike care:

'" Support the motorcycle in an upright position. using an auxiliary stand If required, and turn the handlebars unW the lop of the Iront master cylinder Is as level as possible. The rear master cylinder reservoir Is located behind the seal cowling on the right-hand

• The fluid in the front and rear brake master cylinder reservoirs will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down. • If any fluid reservoir requires repeated topping-up this Is an indication of an hydraulic leak somewhere In the system, which should be Investigated immediately. • Check for signs of flu id leakage from the hydraulic hoses and components - if found, rectify immediately. • Check the operation of both brakes before taking the machine on the road: If th ere is evidence of air in the system (spongy feel to lever or pedal), !t must be bled as described in Chapter 7.

The front brake fluid level Is visible through the reservoir body - it must be between Ihe UPPER and LOWER level lines (arrowed).

3

4

side of the machine. '" Make sure you halle the correct hydraulic fluid . DOT 4 is recommended. II' Wrap a rag around the reservoIr beIng worked on to ensure that any spillage does not come Into contact with painted surfaces. ...... Access to the front reservoIr cap screws Is restrIcted by the windshield. Use a short or angled screwdriver to access the screws.

2

If the level is below the LOWER level line, remove the two reservoir cap screws and remove the cap, the diaphragm plale and the diaphragm.

On J and K models, the rear brake fluid level is viSible by looking across the top 01 the rear wheel al the window In th e rea r comar of the reservoir body - the fluid level must be between the UPPER and LOWER level lines (arrowed).

5

Top up with new DOT 4 hydraulic fluid, until t he level Is just below the UPPER level line. Do not overlillthe reservoir, and take care 10 avoid spills (see Warning above).

6

If the lines aren't visible, remove the seat cowling (see Chapter 8). The lines are also marked on Ille outer corner (arrows).

1

Ensure that the diaphragm is correctly seated before installing the plate and cap. TIghten the cap screws securely.

On L, Nand R models. the rear brake fluid level is visible by looking through the aperture In the seat cowling at the window' In the reservOir body - the !luld level must be between the UPPER and LOWER level lines (arrowed).

7

Daily (pre-ride) checks

II the level is below the LOWER level line, remove the seat cowlIng (see Chapter 8). Unscrew the reservoir cover screws and remove the cover, diaphragm plale and diaphragm.

8

Top up with new DOT 4 hydraulic I!uld. unt il the level Is just below the UPPER level line. Do nol overlill 1I1e reservoir, and take care to avoid spills (see Waming above).

9

0·13

Ensure that the diliphragm Is correctly

seated before installing the plate and 10 cover. Tighten the cover screws

securely, then lnslalilhe seat cowling (see Chapter 8).

3 Coolant level check Warning: DO NOT remove the radiator prt/ssure cap to add coolant. Topping up is done via the coolant reservoir tank fillrt'. DO NOT leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

A!

Before you start: v' Make sure you have a supply 01 coolan t available (a mixture 0150% distlUed water and 50% corrosion inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze is needed). v Always check the coolant level when the

engine is at normal working temperature. Start the engine allow It to reach normal temperature, th9f1 stop the eng me. Caution: Do not run the engine In an enclosed space such as a garage or workshop. ." Support the motorcycle In an upright position, using an auxiliary stand If required, whilst checking the level. Make sure the motorcycle Is on level ground.

Bike care: • Use only the specified coolant mixture. It is Important that anti-freeze is used in the

system atl year round. and not just In the winter. 00 not top the system up using only water. as the system will become too diluted. • Do not overfill the reservoir tank. If the coolant Is slgmficantly above !he UPPER level line at any time, the surplus should be siphoned or drained oN to prevent the possibility of It being expelled out of the overflow hose. • II the coolant level falls steadily, checK the system for leaks {see Chapter 1). If no leaks are lound and the level continues to fall, It Is recommended that the machine is tak9f1 to a dealer fOf a pressure test.

coolant reservOir Is located behind the coolant level Is not In between the 1 The 2 IfUPPER the main frame member on the rlghtand LOWER marl a weak ＡｉＱｩ ｾ ｬｵｲｾＬ＠ drain. flush and refill the system (see Section 27). 8 Start the engine and let it reach normal operating temperature, then check for leaks ag ain. As the coolant temperature increases. the fan should come on automatically and the

11.3 Flex the brake hoses and check for cracks, bulges and leaking fluid

11.5 Rear b rake light switch adjuster ring (arrowed)

10 Cooling system - check

Warning; The engine must bs , cool before beginning this • procedure. 1 Check the coolant level (see Daily (pre-n'de)

.A

checks). 2 Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8).

The entire coaling system should be checked for evidence of leakage. Examine each rubber coolant hose along Its entire length. Look for cracks. abrasions and other damage. Squeeze each hose at various points. They should feel firm, yet pliable, and return to their original shape when released, If they are dried

1 A routine general chACk of the brnke ＢＧｾｴｦｬｭ＠ will ensure that any problems are discovered and remedied before the rio'er's safety is jeopardised. 2 Check the brake lever and pedal for loose connect ions, Improper or rough acti on. excessive play, bends, and other damage. Renew any damaged parts (see Chapter 7). 3 Make sure all brake fasteners are t ig ht. Check the brake pads for wear (see Section 3) and make sure the fluid level in the reservoirs Is correct (see Daily (pre-ride) checks). Look for leaks at the hose connections and check (or cracks in the hoses (see illustration) . If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed the brakes (see Chapter 7). 4 Make sure the brake light operates when the front brake lever is pulled In. The front brake light switch, mounted on the underside 01 the master cylinder, is not adjustable. If it falls to operate properly, check it (see Chapter 9). 5 Make sure the brake light Is activated just before the rear brake takes effect. If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch and tum the adjuster ring on the switch body until the brake light Is activated when required (see illustration). The switch is mounted on the Inside of the rider's right·hand footrest bracket, just ahead of the master cyl inder. If the brake light comes on too late, tum the ring clockwise. If the brake light comes on too soon or is permanently on, tum the ring anti-clockwise. If the switch doesn't operate the brake light, check it (see Chapter 9). 6 The front brake lever has a span adjuster which alters the distance of the lever from the handlebar (see illustration). Each ｳｾｴ

ｩ ｦｬｙ＠

is

ident ified by a notch in the adjuster which aligns with the arrow on th e le ver. Pull the lever away from the handlebar and tu rn the adjuster ring until the setting which best suits the rider is obtained. There are two settings.

11.6 Front brake lever span adjuster (arrowed)

Routine maintenance and servicing

1.1 3

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months Carry 001 all the Items under the 4CXXJ mile (6000 km) check, plus the following:

12 Engine/transmission -

oil and oil filter change

A , •

ｾ＠ ｾ＠

'"

Warning: Be careful when draining the oil, as the exhaus t p ipes, the enginfl, lind the oil

Use" can cause severe bums.

Consistent routi ne all and filter changes are the single most Important maintenance procedUre you can perform on a motorcycle. The 011 not only lubricates the internal parts of the engine, transmiSSion and clutch, but It also acts as a coolant, a cleaner, a sealant, and a protectsn!. Because of these demands, the oil takes a terrific amount 01 abuse and

should be changed otlen with new all of the recommended grade and type. Saving a little money on the difference In cost between a good 011 and a cheap all won't pay oN II the engine Is damaged. 2 Before changing the oil, warm up the engine so the 011 Will drain easily. Remove the lower fairing (see Chapter 8). 3 Pu t the motorcycle on Its sidestand, and position a clean drain tray below the engine. Unscrew the all filler cap from the clutch cover to vent the crankcase and to act as a reminder that there Is no 011 In the engine (see illustration 7.3). 4 Nellt, unscrew the 011 drain plug from the sump on the bottom 01 the engine and allow the oil to now Into Ihe drain tray (see illustrations 7,4a and b) . Check the condi tion of the sealing washer on I he d rain plug and obtain a new one if it is damaged or worn,

ｾ＠

•

HIN

Ihe recommended type and amount of 011 (see Daily (pre-ride) chac:ks). Wi th the motorcycle vertical, Ihe oil level should lie between the upper and lower level lines on the dipstick (see Daily (pre-ride) checks). Install the filler cap (see Illustrati on 7.3). Start the engine ana let It run for two or Ihree minutes (make sure that the of! pressure light extinguishes arter a few seconds). Shul lioN, wail a few minutes, thoo chac:k the oilleval. If necessary, add more 011 to bring Ihe level up to the upper level line on the dipstick. Check around the drain plug and the 011 filter for leaks.

Sailing a little money on the difference between good and cheap offs won 't payoff if the engIne is damaged as a result. 9 The old oil drained from the engine cannol be re-used and should be disposed of properly. Check With your local refuse disposal company, disposal facility or environmental agency 10 see whether they will accept the used oil for recycling . Don't pour used oil Into drains or onto the g round.

＠ｾ HINT

Check the old oil carefullyif it is very metalfic coloured, then the engine is eXperiencing wear from break-In (new engine) or from insufficient lubrication. "there are flakes or chips of metal In the 011, then something Is drastically wrong internally and the engine will halle to be disassembled for Inspection and repair. If there are pieces of fibre-like material In the 01/, the crutch is experiencing excessive wear and should be checked. •

OIL CARE

.,;

.,. ""

" "

080066 33 66

Note: It fa antisocial and il/ega/lo dump 01/ down the drain. To find the location of your local 011recycling bank, call this number free.

1

To help determine whether any abnormal or excessive engine wear is occurring, ploco

Q

strainOf' betwoen tho

engine and the drain tray so thaI any debris In the oil Is filtered out and can be examined,

5 Whoo the oil has t:OfTlpletely drained, lit the plug to the sump, using 8 new sealing washer if necessary, and tighten It securely (see Illustration 7.5). Avoid overtightening, as damage to the sump will result. 6 Now pl ace Ihe drain tray below I he oil filter. Unscrew the 011 IiIter using a lilter ad apter or a strap w re nch and Up any residu e oil into the drain tray (see illustrations). 7 Smear clean engine oil onto the rubw seal on Ihe new fiUer, then manoeuvre it Into position and screw It onto the engine (see Illustrations). TIghtoo it securely using a filter wrench, or if one is not avaitable, tighten the filler as tig ht as possible by hand (see Illustration). 8 Aelill the engine to the proper level using

12.6a Unscrew the filter .. .

12.6b . . , and drain it

12,7a Smear the seal with oit and tighten it as described

12. 7b Thread the new filter onto the engine

1.14

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months

13 Fuel system - check

A, .Lll.

Warning: Petrol (gasoline) is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you

w ork on any part of the fuel system. Don 't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in a garage where a natural ｧ｡ｳＭｉｹｾ＠ dppfitmc", is preStml. If you spill

any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately wnh soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses end have a fire extinguisher suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand.

13.6a In-line fuel filter (arrowed) J and K models

1 Make sure the throttle gnp rotates easily from fully closed to fully open with th e front wheel tu rned at various angles. The grip should return automatically from tully open to fully closed when released .

2 If the throttle sticks. this Is probably due 10 a cab le fault. Remove the cables (see Chapter 4) and lubricate them (see Section 6). Install the cabl es. making sure they are co rrectly routed . If this fails to improve the operation of the thrOl lle. the cables must be renewed. Note that In very rare cases the fault co uld lie In the carburett ors ra ther than the cables. necessitating the removal of the carb uretlors and Inspection of the thro tt le linkage (see Chapter 4). 3 With the throttle operating smoothly. check lor a small amount ot Ireeplay in the cables. measured in terms of the amount 01 twlsl grip rotation before t he th rott le opens. and co m pare the amount to that listed in this Chapter's Specifications (s ee illustration). If 1I's incorrect. adjust the cables to correct II . 4 Freeplay adjust ments can be made at the th rottle end of the cable. Loosen the locknut on the accelera tor cable where It leaves the handlebar (see illustration). Turn the adjuster until the specified amount of freeplay is obtained (see this Cl1apter's Speci fIcations). then retighten the locknut. S If Ihe adjuster has re ached its I1mit 01 adjustment. reset it so that the freeplay IS at a maximum, then remove the fuel tank and air filter hOUSing (see Chapter 4) and adjust the cable at the carburettor end. Slacken the adjuster locknut, then turn the adjuster out. making sure the lower nut remains captive In the bracket, thereby threading Itself down the

15.3 Throttle cable freeplay i s measured in terms of twi stgrip rotation

15.4 Throttle cable adjuster locknut (A) and adjuster (8)- throttle end

14 Battery - check

Check 1 Remove Ihe luel tan k (see Chapter 4) and check Ihe tan k, the fuel lap. the fuel pump, the In-line fuel fil ter and Ihe fuel hoses lor signs 01 leakage, deterioration or damage; In ｡ ｧ･＠ from particular check that there is no ｬ･｡ｾ the fuel hoses. Renew any hoses which are ｣ｲ ｡ ｣ ｾ ･､＠ or deteriorated. 2 If the fuel tap is leaking, tighte ning the retaining nut and the assembly screws may help (see Chapter 4). If leakage persists. remove the tap -and renew the O-ring. If the tap appears ｢ｬｯ｣ ｾ ･､ Ｎ＠ Check the filter (see belo w). If a leakage o r blockage can not be cured, fit a new tap. 3 If the carburettor gaskets are leaking, Ine carburettors should be disassembl ed and rebuilt using new gaskets and seals (see Chapter 4).

Filter cleaning 4 Cleaning or renewal of the fuel fillers is advised after a particularly high mileage has been covered. It Is also necessary II ruel starvation is suspected. 5 A luel filter Is mOUnted in the tank and is Integral with the fuel tap. Remove the fuel tank and th e tuel ta p (see Chapter 4). Clean the gauze !lIter to remove all traces of dirt and fuel sediment. Check the gauze for holes. If any are found , a new filt er should be fitted (it is available separately). Check the condltlon 01 the a-ring and renew it If it is in any way d am aged or deteriorated. It Is advisable to renew it as a matter 01course. 6 An in-line fuel lilter is fitted In the hose Irom the fuel tap to the fuel pump (see illustrations). If the filter is dirty or clogged or o th erwi se needs renew ing, remove t he fuel tan k (see Chapter 4). Have a rag handy to soak up any residual fuel and disconnect the pipes from the l ilter. Slip the mter ou t of its brac ket and install the new fil te r so that Its arrow point s in the d irection of fu el flow (ie towa rds the pump). Secure the p ipes to the filter wi th the retaining cHps. InstaH the fuel tank (see Chapter 4), turn th e tap ON and check that there are no leaks.

13.6b In-line fuel filter (arrowed)L, Nand R modelS

1 All models covered in this manual are Iitted with a sealed maintenance· free battery which requires no maIntenance. Note: Do not artempt to remove the battery filler caps to check the electrolyte lavel or ballery specific gravity. Remova l will damage the caps, resulting In electrolyte leakage and battery damage. 2 All that should be dona Is to check that its terminals are clean and light and that the casing Is not damaged or leaking. See Chapter 9 for further details. 3 If the machine Is nOI In regular use, d isconnect the battery and give it a refresher charge every mont h to Six weeks, as described In Chapter g.

15 Throttle and choke cablescheck

Throttle cables

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months

1.15

*

Warning: Petrol (gasoline) is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't wo'* in a garage where a natural "as-type applianc e is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and warer. When yo u perform any kind of wo'* on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a

fire extinguisher suitable for a Class B type fire (flammable liquids) on hand. Wamlng: Take great care not to bum your hand on the hot engine unit when accessing the gauge lake-off points on the inlet manifolds. Do not allow exhaust gases to build up in the wort ares; either perlorm th e check outside or use an exhaus t g as extraction system. 1 Carburettor synchronisation is simply the process of adjusting the carburettors so they pass the same amount of fuellair mixture to eaCh cylinder. This Is done by measuring the vacuum produced in each cylinder. Carburett ors that are ou t of synchronisation will result in decreased fuel mlleage, increased engine temperature, less than Ideal throttle response and higher vibration leve!s. Before synchronising the carburettors, make sure the valve clearances are properly set. 2 To properly synchronise the carburettors, you will need a set of vacuum gauges or calibrated tubes (manometer) to indicate engine vacuum. The equipment used should be sui table lor a four cyllnder engine and come complete with the necessary adapters and hoses to fit the take- off points. Note: Because of the nature of the synchronisation procedure and the need for special instruments, most owners leave the task to e deafer. 3 Start the engine and let it run until it reaches O()(fT1al operating temperature, then shut It off. Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 4). 4 On J and K models, remove th e blanking screws Irom the vacuum take-off points on the inlet manifolds (see illustration) . Install the take·off adapters provided with the vacuum gauges (see illustration) . Connect the vacuum gauge hoses to the adapters (see illustration) . MaKe sure they afe a good lit because any air leaks will result In false readings. 5 On L. N and R models, remove the air filter housing and displace the carburellors to access the vacuum take-off points (see Chapter 4) - there is no need to disconnect the cables, though it may be necessary to eilher detach the fuel hose or displace the luel pump 10 provide enough slack. Remove the

17.4b ... then fit th e adapters . . .

17.4c ... and attach the hoses

.Lll.

15.5 Throttle cable adjuster locknut (A), adjuster (B) and lower nut Ie) - carburettor end

adjuster as yoo tum it (see Illustration). Tum Ihe adjuster until the specified amount of freeplay Is obtained, then tighten the locknut. Funher adjustments can flOW be made at the throttle grip end. If the cable cannot be

adjusted as specified, renew the cable (see Chapter 4).

Warning: Tum the handlebars all the way through their trallel with the engine idling. Idle speed Should not change. If it does, the cable may be routed in correctly. Correct this condition before riding the b ike. 6 Check tha t the throttle twistgrip operates

AI

.LU.

smoothly and snaps shut quickly when released.

Choke cable 7 If the choke does not operate smoothly this Is probably due 10 a cable fault. Remove the cable (see Chapter 4) and lubricate It (see Sect ion 6). Install the cable, routing It so It takes the smoothest rou te possible. S II this faits 10 improve the operation 01 the choke, the cable must be renewed. Note that In very rare cases the fault could lie In the carbureltors rather than the cable, necessitating the removal of the carbureltors and Inspect inn nf the "'hoke plunoers (see Chapter 4). 9 Make sure there Is a small amount of Ireep/ay In the cable before the plungers move. It there Isn't, check that the cable is

17.4a Remove the blanking screws (arrowed) (cylinders 1 and 2 shown) • , .

15.9 Slacken the screw and slide the outer cable end (arrowed) further Into the bracket to create some freeplay correctly Installed at both ends - remove the fuel tank and air filter housing to access the carburettor end 01 the cable (see Chapter 4). If it is. then slacken the choke outer cable bracket screw on the carbureltor and slIde the cable fu rther into the bracket, creating some freeplay (see illustration). Otherwise, renew the cable.

16 Spark plugs - renewal

1 Remove the old spark plugs as described In

Section 5 and install new ones.

17 Carburettors synchronisation

.&. I.

1

1'16

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months

17.5a Remove the blanking caps ...

17.Sb ... and attach the hoses

17.8 Carburettor synchronisation set-up

17 .9a Synchronisati on scr ews (arrowed) - J and K models (air filter housing removed for clarity)

blanking caps from the vacuum lake-olf points on the inlet manifolds (see illustration) . Connect the vacuum gauge hoses to the adapters or take-off points (see illustration). Make sure they are a good fit because any air leaks win result in fa lse readings. Install the ca rburetlors and air filter housing (see Chapter 4).

6 Arrange a temporary fuel supply. using a smaillemporary lank mounted above the level of the carburettors (see Illustration 17.8) . Connect the fuel supply hose from the tank to the Inlet union on th e In-line fil ter - do not co nnect it directly to the carburetlors or you will by-pass the fuel pump. 7 Start the engine and make sure the idle speed Is correct. If it isn·t, adjust It (see Section 2). If th e gauges are fitted with damping adjustment. se t this so tha t the needle flutter Is Just eliminated but so that they can still respond to small changes in pressure. 8 The vacuum readings for all of the cylinders should be the same, or at leas t within the tolerance listed In this Chapter' s

Specifications (see illustration). If the vacuum readings vary, adjust as necessary. 9 The carburellors are adjusted by turning the synchronising screws situated In-between the carburellors, In the throttle linkage (see Illustrations). Note: Do not press down on the screws whilst adjusting them, otherwise a false reading wl/f be obtained. First synchronise the outer left carburettor (no. 1) to lhe inner left carburettor (no. 2) using Ihe lefthand synchronising screw until l he readings are the same. Then synchronise the ouler right carbureUor (no. 4) to the inner righl carburellor (no. 3) using the righ t-hand synchronising screw. Finally synchronise the left-hand carburettors (nos. 1 and 2) to the right-hand carburellors (nos. 3 and 4) using the centre synchronising screw. 10 When all the carbu retlors are synchronised, open and close the throttle quickly to settle the linkage. and recheck the gauge readings, readjusting if necessary. 11 When the adjustment Is complete, rechec k the vacuum readings . then adjust the

idle speed by turning the throttle slop screw (see Sec tion 2) unlll the idle speed listed in this Chapter's Specifications is obtained. Stop the engine. 12 Remove the vacuu m gauges and, where used, the adapters. Fit the blanking screws or caps onto the Inlet manifolds. 13 Install the fuel tank (see Chapter 4).

17.9b Synchronisation screws (arrowed)l , Nand R models

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months

1'17 ｾ＠

20 Suspension - check

ｾ＠

ｾ＠ 1 The suspension components must be maintained in top operating conditton to ensure rider safety. Loose, worn or damaged suspension parts decrease the motorcycle's stability and control.

Front s uspension 18.2 Headlig ht beam adjusters (arrowed) J and K models

18 Headlight aim check and adjustment Note: An Improperly adjusted headlight may cause problems for oncoming traffic or provide poor, unsafe Illumination of the road ahead. Before adjusting the headlight aim, be sure to consult with local traffic laws and regulations - refer to MOT Test Checks in the

18.3 Headlight beam adjusters (arrowed)L, Nand R models (see illustration). Turn it clockwise to move the beam down, and anti-clockwise to move it up. Horizontal adjustment is made by turning the adjuster screw on the top outer comer of each headlight unit. Turn it clockwise to move the beam out (away from the centre of the bike), and anti-clockwise to move II in.

19 Sidestand - check

Reference section. 1 The headlight beam can adjusted both

2 While ｾ ｴｬＧｮ､ｩｧ＠ alongside the mDtorcycle, apply the front brake and push on the handlebars to compress the forks several times. See If they move up-and-down smoothly without binding. If binding is felt, the forks should be disassembled and inspected (see Chapter 6). 3 Inspect the area around the dust seal for signs of 011 leakage, then carefully lever up the dust seal using a flat-bladed screwdriver and Inspect the area around the fork seal (see illustration). If leakage Is evident, the seals must be renewed (see Chapter 6). 4 Check the tightness of all suspension nuts and bolts to be sure none have worked loose.

Rear suspension

horizontally and vertically. Before making any adjustment, check Ihat tl1e lyre pressures are co rrect and the suspension is adjusted as required. M ake any adjustments to the headlight aim with the machine on level ground, with the fuel lank half full and with an assistant sitting on t he seat. If t he bike is usually ridden with a passenger on the back, have a second assistant to do this. 2 On J and K models, vertical adjust ment Is made by turning the adjuster screw on the top outer corner of each headlight unit (see Illustration). Turn II clockwise 10 move Ihe beam up, and ｡ｮｴｩｾ｣ｬｯｫｷｳ･＠ to move II down. Horizontal adjuslment is made by turning Ihe adjuster screw on the bottom Inner corner of each headlight unit. Turn it clockwise to move the beam in (towards the cen tre of the bike), and anti-clockwise to move II out. 3 On L. N and A models, vertical adjustment Is made by turning the adjuster screw on the bottom Inner corner of each head light unit

1 The sidestand return spring must be capable of retracting the stand fully and holding the s tand retracted when Ihe motorcycle is In use. If the spring is sagged or broken It musl be renewed . 2 Lubricate the sidestand pivot regularly (see Section 6). 3 On J and K models, check the cond ition of the sidestand rubber. If It is worn down to or beyond the wear limit line, renew It (see illustration). 4 On L, Nand R models, the sidestand switch prevents the motorcycle being started if the stand Is extended. Check its operation by shifting the transm ission into neutral. retracting the stand and starting the engine. Pull in the clutCh lever and select 1I gear. Extend the sidestand. The engine should stop as the sidestand Is extended. If the sidestand switch does not operate as described, check its circuit (see Chapter 9).

5 Inspect the rear shock for fluid leakage and tightness of Its mounUngs. If leakage Is found, the shock should be renewed (see Chapter 6). 6 With the aid of an aSSistant to support the bike. compress the rear suspension several times. !t should move up and down freely without binding. If any binding Is felt, the worn or faulty component must be Identified and renewed. The problem could be due to either the shock absorber, the suspension linkage components or the swlngarm components. 7 Support the motorcycle using an auxiliary sland so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Grab the swlngarm and attemp t to rock it from side to side - there should be no discernible movement at the rear (see illustratIon). If there's a little movement or a slight clicking can be heard, Inspect the tightness of all the rear suspension mounting bolts and nuts. referring to the torque settings specified at the beginning of Chapter 6. and re -check for movement. Next, grasp the top

19.3 Renew the rubber if it is worn to or beyond the line (arrowed)

20.3 Check above and below the dust seal for signs of fluid leakage

2O.7a Checking for play in the swingarm bearings

1

1· 18

Every 8000 miles (12,000 km) or 12 months from side-to-side. Any wear (play) in the bearlngs should be felt as movemenl between the swingarm and the frame al the front. If there Is any play the swingarm wil l be felt to move forward and backward at the front (nOI from side-to"slde). Next, move the swlngarm up and down through Its fuf) travel. II should move freely, without any binding or rough spots. If any play in Ihe swingarm is noted or If the swingarm does not move freely, the bearings must be removed for Inspection or renewal (see Chapter 6).

20.7b Checking for play In the rear shock mountings and suspension linkage

21 Steering head bearings -

bearings

check and adjustment

of tl1e r!'lar wheel and pull It upwards - there should be no discernible free play before the shock absorber begins to compress (see illustra tion). Any freeplay felt In ei ther check

indicates worn bearings in the suspension linkage or 5wingarm, or worn shock absorber

mountings. The worn components must be renewed (see Chapter 6), 8 To make an accurate assessment of the swing arm bearings, remove the rear wheel (see Chapler 7) and the bolt securing the suspensIon linkage assembly to the swlngarm (see Chapler 6). Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one hand and place your other hand at the junction of the sWingarm and the frame. Try to move the rear of the swingarm

Chec kin g for play in the steering head bearings

21.6a On L, Nand R m odels, remove the plug

1 This motorcycle Is equipped with caged ball steering head bearings wh ich can become dented, rough or loose during normal use of the machine. In extreme cases. worn or loose steering head bearings can cause steering wobble - a condition that is potentially dangerous.

Check 2 Support the motorcycle In an upright position using an auxiliary stand. Raise the front wheel off the ground by poSitioning the bike on an auxiliary stand and having an assistant push down on the rear or by placing a support under Ihe engine.

21 .5 Unscrew the fork c lamp bolts (arrow ed)

2 1.6b Unscr ew and remove th e steering stem nut

3 Poin t the front wheel straight· ahead and slowly move the handlebars from side-Ioside. Any dents or roughness in the bearIng races will be felt. and if the bearings are too tight the bars will not move smoothly and freely. !I the bearings are damaged or t he action is rough. they should be renewed (see Chapter 6). If Ihe bearings are 100 tight they should be adjusted as described below. 4 Next. grasp the for!

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Electrical system 9- 27

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0Set o( flat-bladed

SC/ewdriYers 2 Set of PhiUips head screwdrivers 3 Combination open-end & ring spanners 4 Socket set (318 Inch or 112 inch drive) 5 Set of Allen keys or bits

Set of Tone keys orbits Pliers and seIf-/ocJfing grips (Mole grips) 8 Adjustable spanner C-spanner (Ideally adjustable type) 10 Tyre pressure gauge (A) & tread depth gauge (8) 6 7

•

11 Gable pressure oiler 12 Feeler gauges 13 Sparlc plug gap

16 Funnel8f'Id

17

measuring ancI adjusting tool 14 Spark plug spanner fA) or deep plug socket (8) 15 Wire brush and

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measurlng ""'" Strap wlWlCh, ch8Jn wrench or 01/ filter removal tool Oil drainer can or tray Pump type oil can Grease gun

21 Steel rule (.0\1 and """""-edge /8) 22 Continuity feSter 23 Battery chaTger 24 Hydrometer (for battery specific gravity check) 25 Anti-freeze tester (fOr Ilquid-cooled engines)

Tools and Workshop Tips

REFo3

Repair and overhaul tools

1 TOIQue wrench (smaR and mid-ranges)

2 Conventional. plastic or soft-faced hammers 3 Impact driver set

4 Vernier gauge 7 Selection of pullers 5 Ci1Clip p/ieIs (internal and 8Breakerbers(AJ extem8l, or combination) and length of tubing (8) IS Set of punches 9 Chain bfBaJdng/ and cold chisels riveting tool

10 Wire crimper tool 11 Multimeter (measures amps, volts and ohms) 12 Strobosccpe (ror dynamic timing checks)

13 Hose clamp (wiognut type shown) 14 Magneticatm (telescopic type shown) 15 One-man brake/chJtch bleederkit

10 Piston n'ng remova/and Ins tallalion tool 1 I Piston ring clamp 12 Cylinder bora hone (stone type shown)

13 Stud extractor 14 Screw extmctor set 15 Bearing driver set

Specialist tools

1 Micrometer (external type)

2 Telescoping gauges or small-hole gauges 3 Dialgauge

4 Cylinder compression gauge 5 Vacuum gauges (shown)

or manometer IS all pressure gauge

7 Pfastigauge kit 8 Valve spring compressor (4-stroke engines) 9 Piston pin drawbolt tool

REF'4

Tools and Workshop Tips • Use proprietary engine degreasers or solvents which have a high flash-point , such as paraffin (kerosene). for cleaning off oil, grease and dirt - never use petrol (gasoline) 101" cleaning. Wear rubber gloves when handling solvent and engine degreaser. The fumes from certain solvents can be dangerous· always work in a well-ventilated area.

1 Workshop equipment and facilities

The workbench •

Work Is made much easier by raising the

bike up on a ramp ｾ＠ components are much more accessible if raised to waist level. The

Dust. eye and hand protection

hydraulic or pneumatic types seen in the dealer's workshop are a sound investment if you undertake a lot of repairs or overhau ls (see Illustration 1.1).

1.3 This auxiliary stand attaches to the swingarm pivot

1.1 Hydraulic motorcycle ramp

1.4 Always use a block of wood between the engine and jack head when supporting the engine in this way

•

If raised off ground level, the bike must be

supported on the ramp to avoid it falling . Most

ramps incorporate a tront wheel localing clamp which can be adjusted to suit different diameter wheels. When tightening the clamp, take care not to mark Ihe whee l rim or damage the lyre ｾ＠ use wood blocks on each side to prevent this.

• Secure the bike to the ramp using Iledowns (see illustration 1.2). if the bike has only a sides ta nd, and hence leans at a dangerous ang le when raised. support the bike on an au xiliary stand.

Fumes and fire • Refer to the Safety first! page at the beginning of the manual for full detailS. Make sure your workshop Is equipped with a fire extinguisher suitable for fuel-related fires (Class B fire - flammab le liquids) - it Is not sufficient to have a water-filled extinguisher. • Always ensure adequate ventilation Is available. Unless an exhaust gas extraction system Is available for use, ensure thai the engine Is run outside of the workshop. • If working on the fuel system, make sure the workshop is ventilated to avoid a build-up of fumes. This applles equally to fume buildup when charging a battery. Do not smoke or allow anyone else 10 smoke In the workshop.

Fluids • If you need to drain fuel from the tank, store it in an approved container marked as suitable for the storage of petrol (gasoline) (see illustration 1.5). Do not store fuel In glass jars or bottles.

1.2 Tie-downs are used around the passenger footrests to secure the bike • Auxiliary (paddock) stands are widely available from mail order companies or motorcycle dealers and attach either to the wheel axle or swlngarm pivot (see illustration 1.3). If the motorcycle has a centrestand, you can support It under the crankcase to prevent It toppling whilst either wheel is removed (see illustration 1.4).

• Protect your lungs from Inhalation 01 dust particles by wearing a filtering mask over the nose and mouth. Many frictional materials stili contain asbestos which is dangerous to your hea!th. Protect your eyes from spouts of liquid and sprung components by wearing a pair of protective goggles (see Illustration 1.6).

1.6 A fire extinguisher, goggles, mask and protective gloves should be at hand in the workshop • Protect your hands from contact with solvents, fuel and oils by wearing rubber gloves. Alternatively apply a barrier cream to your hands before starting work. If handling hot components or fluids, wear suitable gloves to protect your hands from scalding and bums.

What to do with old fluids • Old cleaning solvent. fuel. coolant and oils should not be poured down domestic drains or onto the ground. Package the fluid up in old oil containers, label it accordingly, and take it to a garage or disposal facility. Contact your local authority for location of such sites or ring the oil care hotlIne.

OIL CARE

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080066 33 66 1.5 Use an approved can only for storing petrol (gasoline)

Nole: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, calilhis number free.

In the USA, note that any oil supplier must accept used oil for recycling.

Tools and Workshop Tips 2 Fasteners ·

screws, bolts and nuts

Fastener types and applications Bolts and screws • Fastener head types are either of he xagonal, Torx or spfi ned design, with internal and e:o:ternal versions of each type (see illustrations 2.1 and 2.21: splined head fasteners are not in common use on motorcycles. The conventional slotted or Phililps head design Is used for certain screws. Bolt or screw length is always measured from the underside of the head to the end of the Item (see Illustration 2.11).

2.1 Internal hexagon/Allen (A), Torx (B) and splined (e) fasteners, with corresponding bits

2.3 Plain washer (AI. penny washer (B), spring washer (C) and serrated washer (D) • The split-ring spring washer works by applying axial tension between the fastener head and component. If flattened, it Is fatigued and must be renewed . If a plain (fiat) washer Is used on the fastener, position the spring washer bet ween the fastener and the plain washer. • Serrated star type washers dig into th e fastener and component faces, preventing loosening. They are often used on electrical earth (ground) connections to the frame. • Cone type washers (sometimes called Bel leville) are conical and when tightened apply axial tension between the fastener head and component. They must be installed with the dished side against the component and often carry an OUTSIDE marking on their outer face. If fialtened . they are fatigued and must be renewed. • Tab washers are used to lock plain nuts or boi ts on a shaft. A portion of the tab washer is bent up hard agains t one flat of the nut or bolt to prevent It loosening. Due to the tab washer being deformed in use, a new tab washer should be used every time it Is disturbed. • Wave washers are used to take up endfloat on a shaft. They provide Ught springing and prevent excessive side-Io-side play of a component. Can be found on rocker arm shafts.

REF-5

• Self-locking nuts either have a nylon Insert, or two spring metal tabs, or a shoulder which is staked into a groove in the shaft their advantage over conventional plain nuts is a resistance to loosenIng due to vibration. The nylon insert type can be used a number of times, but must be renewed When the friction of Ihe nylon insert is reduced , ie when the nut spins freely on the shaft. The spring tab type can be reused unless the tabs are damaged. The shouldered type must be renewed every time It Is disturbed. • Split pins (cotter pins) are used to lock a castellated nut to a shaft or to prevent slackening of a plain nut. Common applications afe wheel axles and brake torque arms. Because the split pin ar ms afe deformed to lock around the nut a new split pin must always be used on insiallation - always fit the correct size split pin which will fit snugly In the shaft hole. Make sure tha split pin arms are correctly located around the nut (see illustrations 2.5 and 2.6).

2.5 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as shown (arrows) to secure a castellated nut

Nuts and split pins 2.2 EJrtemal Torx (A), splined (8) and hexagon (e) fasteners, with

corresponding sockets

• Conventional plain nuts are usually sixsided (see illustration 2.4). They are sized by thread diameter and pitch. High tensile nuts carry a number on one end to denote their tensile strength.

• Certain fasteners on the motorcycle have a te nsile marking on their heads, the higher the marking the stronger the fastener. High tensile fasteners generally carry a or higher marking. Never replace a high tensile fastener with one of a lower tensile strength.

2.6 Bend split pin (cotter pin) arms as shown to secure a plain nut

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Caution; If the castellated nut slots do not align with the shaft hole after tightening to the torque setting, tighten the nut until the ned slot aligns with the hole - never sleeken the nut to al/gn its slot.

Washers (see illustration 2.3) • Plain waShers are used betwe en a fastener head and a componen t to prevent damage to the component or to spread the load when torque Is applied. Plain washers can also be used as spacers Of shims in certain assemblies. Copper or aluminium plain washers are often used as sealing washers on drain plugs.

2.4 Plain nut (A), shouldered locknut (B), nylon insert nut (C) and castellated nut (0)

• R-pins (shaped like the letter R). or slip pins as they are sometlmes ca lled. are sprung and can be reused if they are otherwise in good condition. Always install R-pins with their closed end facing forwards (see illustration 2.n,

REFo6

Tools and Workshop Tips

2.7 Correct fitting of R-pln. Arrow Indicates forward direction Circlips (see illustration 2.8) • Circllps (sometimes called snap-rings) are used to relain components on a shaft or in a housing and have corresponding external or internal ears to pennit removal. Parallel-sided (machined) eire lips can be Installed eUher way round In their groove, whereas stamped circlips (which have a chamfered edge on one lace) must be installed wi th the chamfer facing away from the direction of thrust load (see illustration 2.9).

2.10 Align clrclip opening wIth shan channel • Clrclips can wear due to t he thrust 01 components and become loose In their grooves, with the subsequent danger of becoming dislodged in operation. For this reason, renewal is advised every time a circlip is disturbed. • Wire clrcflps are commonly used as piston pin retaining clips. II a removal tang is provided, long-nosed pliers can be used to diSlodge them. otherwise careful use of a small lIat-bladed screwdriver is necessary. Wire circlips should be renewed every time they are disturbed.

Thread diameter and pitch

2.8 External stamped clrcllp (AI, Internal stamped clrcllp (B), machined clrclip (e) and wire c lrclip (0) • Always use clrcllp pliers to remove and Install clrcl1ps; expand or compress them just enough t o remove them. After lnstallallon. rotate the circllp in Its groove to ensure it Is secure ly seated. If Installing a circlip on a splined shaft , always align Its opening with a .shnft chonnel to en,ure the c:lrcllp end, ore well supported and unlikely to catch (see Illustration 2.10).

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•

2.9 Correct fittIng of a stamped clrcllp

• Diameter of a male thread (screw, bolt or stud) is the outside diameter of the threaded portion (see illustration 2.11). Most motorcycle manufacturers use the ISO (International Standards Organisation) metric system expressed In millimetres, eg M6 refers to a 6 mm diameter thread. Sizing is the same for nuts, except that the thread diameter Is measured across the vaneys of the nul. • Pitch is the distance between the peaks 01 th e thread (see Illustration 2.11). It Is expressed In millimetres. thus a common bolt size may be expressed as 6.0 x 1.0 mm (6 mm thread diameter and 1 mm pitch). Generally pilch increases In proportion to thread diameter. although there are always exceptions. • Thread diameter and pitch are related for conventional fastener applications and tho following lable can be used as a guide. Additionally. the AF (Across Flats), spanner or socket siZe dimension of the bolt or nut (see illustration 2.11) is linked to thread and pltch specificatfon. Thread pitch can be measured with a thread gauge (see Illustration 2.12).

2.11 Fastener length (L), thread diameter (0), thread pitch (P) and head slu (AF)

2.12 Using a thread gauge to measure pitch AF size 8mm 8mm 10mm 12mm 14mm l7mm

Thread diameter x pitch (mm) M5 xO.S M6 lI. 1.0 M6 x 1.0 Max 1.25 M10x 1.25 M12 x 1.25

• The threads of most fasteners are of the right-hand type, Ie they are tumed clockwise to tighten and anti-clockwise to loosen. The revers e situation applies to left-hand thread fasteners, which are turned antl-clockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen. Left-hand threads are used where rotation of a component might loosen a conventional righthand thread fastener.

Seized fasteners • Corrosion of extern al fasteners due to water or reaction between two dissimilar metals can occur over a period of Ume. II Will bulld up sooner In wet condit ions or In countries where salt is used on t he roads during the winter. If a fastener is severely corroded It Is likely that normal methods of removal wl!l fall and result In its head being ruIned. Wh en you attempt removal, the fastener thread should be heard to crack free and unscre w easily - if it doesn't, stop there before damaging something. • A smart tap on the head of the fastener will often succeed in breaking free corrosion which has occurred in t he threads (see illustration 2.13) . • An aerosol penetrating fluid (such as WD-40) applied the night beforehand may wOfk its way down into the thread and ease removal. Depending on the location. you may be able to make up a Plasticine well around the fastener head and fill it with penetrabng fluid.

2.13 A sharp tap on the head of a fastener will otten break free a corroded thread

Tools and Workshop Tips

REF-?

II you are working on an englna Internal component, corrosion will most likely not be a problem due to the well lubricated environment. Howev8f, components can be very tight and an Impact drlV8f is a useful tool in freeing them (see illustration 2.141. •

2.16 Using a hammer and chisel to free a seized fa stener

Broken fasteners and damaged heads •

2.14 Using an Impact driver to free a fastener • Where corrosion has occurred between dissim!1ar metals (eg steel and aluminium alloy), the application 01 heal to the fastener head will create a disproportionate expansion rate between the two metals and break the seizure caused by the corrosion. Whether heat can be applied depends on the location of the lastenef' any surrounding components likely to be damaged must first be removed (see illustration 2.15). Heat can be applied using a paint stripper heat gun or clothes iron, or by immersing the component in boiling waler • wear protective gloves to prevent scalding or bums to the hands.

If the shank of a broken bolt or screw Is accessible you can grip it with self.locklng grips. The knurled wheel type stud extractor tool or sell-gripping stud puller tool Is particularty useful for removing the long studs which screw into the cylinder mouth surface of the crankcase or bolts and screws from which the head has broken oH (see illustration 2.17). Studs can also be removed by locking two nuts together on the threaded end of the stud and using a spanner on the lower nut (see illustration 2.18).

2.19 When using a screw extractor, first drill a hole in the fastener ..•

approximately half to three-quarters the diameter of the fastener and drill to a depth which wI!! accommodate the extractor. Use the largest size extractor poSSible, but avoid leaving 100 small a wall thickness otherwise the extractor wlll merely force the fastener wails outwards wedging It in the casing

thread. • II a spiral type extractor Is used, thread It anll-clockwlse Into the fastener. As it is screwed in, it wnl grip the fastener and unscrew it from the casing (see Illustration 2.20).

anti-clockwise into the fastener

2.15 USing heat to free a seil::ed fastener

• If a taper type extractor is used. tap it into the fastener so that it Is firmly wedged In place. Unscrew the extractor (antklockwlse) to draw the fastener out. Warning: Stud extractors are , vety hard and may break off in the fastener if care is not taken • ask an engineer about spark erosion if this happens. • Alternatively, the broken bolVscrew can be dritted out and the hole retapped for an overSize bolVscrew or a diamond-section thread insert. It is essential that the dr1111ng Is carried out squarely and 10 the correct depth. otherwise the casing may be ruined· if in doubt. entrust the wor!< to an engineer. • Bolls and nuls with rounded comers cause the correct Size spanner or socket to stip when force Is applied. Of the types of spanner/socket available always use a six-point type rather than an elghl or twelve-point type - better grip

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• As a last resort , it Is possible to use a hammer and cold chisel to work Ihe fastener head unscrewed (see ittustration 2.16). This witt damage the fastener, but more Importanlly extreme care must be taken not to damage the surrounding component.

2.18 Two nuts ca n be locked together to unscrew a stud from a component

Caution : Remember that the component being secured 15 generally of mo re value than the bolt, nut or screw - when the fastener Is freed, do not unscrew It with force, instead work the fastener back and forth when resIstance Is fef! to prevent thread damage.

• A bolt or screw which has broken off below or level with the casIng must be extracted using a screw extractor set. Centre punch the fastener to centrattse the dr111 bit. then drill a hole In the fastener (see lI1ustration 2,19) . Select a drl11 bit which Is

REFo S

Tools and Workshop Tips

2.21 Comparison of surface drive ring spanner (left) with 12-point type (right) is obtained. Surface drive spanners g rip the middle of lhe hex flat s, rather than the comers, and are thus good in cases of damaged heads (see illustration 2.21).

• Slotted-head or Phillips-head screws are often damaged by the use of the wrong size

scre wdriver. Allen -head and TonI-head screw s are much less likely to sustain damage. If enough of the screw head is

2.23 A thread repair tool being used t o correct an extemal thread

To Instat! a thread insert, first drill out the original thread . ..

chasers are a\lallable for spark plug hole th reads. The tool will not cut a new thread, but clean and true the ori ginal thread, Make sure that you use the correct diameter and pitch tool. Similarly, external threads can be cleaned up with a die or a thread restorer file (see illustration 2.24).

exposed you can use a hacksaw to cu t a slot

In its head and then usa a conventional flatbl aded screwdri ver to remove it. A lternatively use a hammer and cold chisel to tap the head of the fastener roun d to slacken It . Al ways

replace damaged fasteners wit h new ones, preferably Torx or Allen-head type.

2.24 Using a thread restorer file

A dab of valve grinding compound between the screw head and screwdriver tip will often gWe a good grip.

Thread repair • Threads (particularly those In aluminium alloy componen ts) can be damaged by O\l ertigh tening, being assembled with dirt In the threads, or from a compo nent working loose and \llbrating. E\lentually the thread will fail completely, and it will be Impossible to tighten the fas tener. • If a thread Is damaged or clogged wi th old locking compound It can be renO\lated wi th a thread repair tool (Ihread chaser) (see illustrations 2,22 and 2.23}j special thread

• It is possible to drill out the old thread and retap the component to the next thread size. Thi s wi ll work where the re is enough surrounding material and a new bolt or screw can be obtained. Sometimes. however, this is not pos sible - such as where the bol Vscrew passes th rou gh ano ther com ponen t which must also be suitably mOdified, also in cases where a spark plug or all drain plug cann ot be obtained in a larger diameter thread Size. • The d iamond-section thread insert (often known by Its popular trade name of Hell-Coil) Is a simple and effecti\le method of renewing the thread and retaining the original size, A kit can be purchased which contains the tap, insert and installing tool (see illustration 2.25). Drill out Ihe damaged thread with the size drill specified (see illustration 2.26). Carefully retap the thread (see illustration 2.27) . Install the

2.28 ... fit insert on the installing to ol , , .

2,29 " . and thread into the component, . ,

2.30 ., . break off the tang when complete

2,22 A thread repair tool being used to correct an internal thread

2.25 Obtain a thread insert kit to suit the thread diameter and pitch required

Insert on the installing tool and thread II slowly into place using a light downward pressure (see illustrations 2.28 and 2.29) . When positioned between a 1/4 and 112 turn below the surface withdraw the installing tool and use the break-off tool to press down on the tang. breaking It off (see illustration 2,30). • There are epoxy thread repair kits on the market which can rebuild stripped Internal th reads, although this repair should not be used on high load-bearing components.

Tools and Workshop Tips Thread locking and sealing compounds • Locking compounds are used In locations where the fastener is prone to loosening due

to vibration or on important safety-related items which might cause loss of cootrol of the motorcycle if they fall. It Is also used where

important fasteners cannot be secured by other means such as iockwashers or split pins. •

Before applying locking compound, make

sure that the threads Onlemal and EtXlemaO are clean and dry with all old compound removed.

Select a compound to suit the component being secured - a non-permanent general

locking and sealing type is suitable fot most applications, but a high strength type Is needed for permanent fixing of studs rn castingS. Apply a drop or two 01 the compound to the first few threads of the fastener, then thread it Into place

and tighten to the speclfied torque. Do nol apply excessive thread locking compound otherwise the thread may be damaged on ｳｵ｢･ｱｮｴｾｯｶＮ＠

• Certain fasteners are Impregnated with a dry film type coating of locking compound on their threads. Always renew this type 01 fastener II disturbed. • Anti-seize compounds, such as copperbased greases, can be applied to protect threads from ｳｾｺｵｲ･＠ due to extreme heat and corrosIon. A common Instance is spark plug threads and exhaust system lasteners.

3

Measuring tools and gauges

Feeler gauges

• When measuring a clearance, select a gauge which Is a light sliding lit between the two components. You may need to use two gauges together to measure the clearance accurately.

Micrometers • A micrometer is a preciSion tool capable of measuring to 0.01 or 0.001 of a millimetre. It should always be stored in Its case and not in the general toolbox. It must be kept clean and never dropped, otherwise its frame or measuring anvils could be distorted re:witlng In Inaccurate readings. • External micrometers are used for measuring outside diameters of components aild have many more applications than internal micrometers. Micrometers are available In different size ranges, eg 0 to 25 mm, 25 10 50 mm, and upwards In 25 mm steps: some large micrometers have Interchangeable anvils to allow a range of measurements to be taken. Generally the largest precision measurement you are likely to lake on a motorcycle is the piston diameter. • Intemal micrometers (or bore micrometers) are used for measuring Inside diameters, such as valve guides and cylinder bores. Telescoping gauges and small hole gauges Me used in conjunction with an external micrometer, whereas the more expensive internal micrometers have their own measuring device.

Extemal micrometer Note: The conventional analogue type instrument is desen·bed. AI/hough much easier to read, digital micrometers ara considerably more expensive. • Always check the calibration of the micrometer before use. With the anvils closed (0 to 25 mm type) or set over a test gauge (for

3.2 Check micrometer calibration before use the larger types) the $cale should read zero (see illustration 3.2): make sure that the anvils (and lest piece) are clean first Any discrepancy can be adjusted by referring to the instructions supplied with the tool. Remember that the micrometer is a precision measuring tool don't force the anvils closed, use the ratchet (4) on the end of the micrometer to close It. In this way. a measured force is always applied. • To use, fjrst make sure that the Item being measured Is clean. Place the anvil of the micrometer (I ) against the item and use the thimble (2) to bring the spindle (3) lightly into contact with the other side of the Item (see illustration 3.3). Don't tighten the thimble damage the micrometer down because this ｷｬｾ＠ - Instead use the ratchet (4) on the end of the micrometer. The ratchet mechanism applies a measured force preventing damage to the

instrument. • The micrometer is read by referring to the linear scale on the sleeve and the annular scale on the thimble. Read off the sleeve first to obtain the base measurement, then add the fine measurement from the thimble to obtain the overall reading. The linear scale on the sleeve represents the measuring range of the micrometer (eg 0 to 25 mm). The annular scale

• Feeler gauges (or blades) are used for measuring smart gaps and clearances (see illustration 3.1). They can also be used to measure endfJoat (sideplay) 01 a component on a shaft where access Is not possible with a dial gauge. • Feeler gauge selS should be treated with care and not bent or damaged. They are etched with their size on one face. Keep them clean and very lighlly oiled to prevent corrosion build-up.

3.3 Micrometer component parts

3.1 Feeler gauges are used for measuring

small gaps and ctearances - thickness Is marked on one fa ce of gauge

REF.9

1 Anvil 2 Thimble

3 Spindle 4 Ratchet

5 F"",. 6 Locking /ever

REFo10

Tools and Workshop Tips

on the thimble will be In graduations of 0.01 mm (or as marked on the frame) • one full revolution of the thimble will move 0.5 mm on the linear scale. Take the reading where the datum line on the sleeve intersects the thimble's scale. Always position the eye directly above the scale otherwise an inaccurate reading will result.

46.000

0.490

In the example shown the item measures 2.95 mm (see illustration 3.4): linear scale 2.00 mm linear scale 0.50 mm Annular scale 0.45 mm Total figure 2.95 mm

0.500

3.9 El(pand the small hole gauge io the bore, lock its position .•.

3.5 Micrometer reading of 46.99 mm on linear and annular scales . . .

0.50 3.4 Micrometer reading of 2.95 mm

3.6 ... and 0.004 mm on vernier scale

Mos! micrometers have a lockIng lever (6) on

• Telescoping gauges can be used to measure internal diameters of components. Select a gauge with the correct size range, make sure its ends are clean and insert it Into the bore. Expand the gauge, then lock lis position and withdraw It from the bore (see illustration 3.7). Measure across the gauge ends with a micrometer (see illustration 3.8).

the frame to hold the setting in place, allowing the Item to be removed from the micrometer. • Some micrometers have a vernier scale on their sleeve, providing an even finer measurement 10 be taken, in 0.001 increments 01 a millimetre. Take the sleeve and thimble measurement as described above, then check which graduation on the vernier scale aligns with t hat of the annular scale on the thimble Note: The eye must be perpendicular to the scale when taking the vernier reading - If necessary rotate the body of tho micrometer to ensure this. Mu!liply the vernier scale figure by 0.001 and add It to the base and fine measurement figures. In the example shown t he !tem measures 46.994 mm (see illustrations 3.5 and 3.6): Unear scale (base) Unear scale (base) Annular scale (flne) Vernier scale Total figure

46.000 mm 00.500 mm 00.490mm 00.004 mm 46.994mm

3.7 Expand the telescoping gauge in the bore, lock its position . ..

Intemal micrometer • Internal micrometers are available for measuring bore diameters, but are expensive and unUkely to be available fOf home use. II is suggested that a set of telescoping gauges and small hole gauges, both of which must be used with an external micrometer, will suffice for taking Internal measurements on a motorcycle.

3.8 •.. then measure the gauge with a micrometer

3.10 ... then measure the gauge with a micrometer • Very small diameter bores (such as valve guides) are measured with a small hole gauge. Once adjusted to a slip-fit Inside the component. lis position Is locked and the gauge withdrawn for measurement with a micrometer (see illustrations 3.9 and 3.10).

Vernier caliper Note: The conventional linear and dial gauge type instruments are described. Digital types are easier to read, buf ara far more expensive. • The vernier caJlper does not provide the precision of a micrometer, but Is versatile In being able to measure internal and external diameters. Some types also incorporate a depth gauge. It is Ideal for measuring clutch plaie friction material and spring free lengths. • To use the conventional linear scale vemi6l", slacken ofl the Vernier clamp screws (1) and set Its jaws over (2), or Inside (3), the item to be measured (see illustration 3.11). Slide the Jaw into contact, using the thumbwheel (4) for fine movement of the sliding scale (5) then tighten the clamp screws (1). Read oflthe main scale (6) where the zero on the sliding scale (5) Intersects it, taking the whole number to the left of Ihe zero: this provides the base measurement. View along the sliding scale and select the division which lines up exactly with any of the divisions on the main scale, noting that the divisions usually represents 0.02 01 a millimetre. Add this fine measurement to the base measurement to obtain the total reading.

Tools and Workshop Tips Plastigauge

CD

-+1 I'-

3.11 Vernier component parts (linear gauge)

1 Clamp screws 2 External jaws

3 Internal jaws 4 Thumbwheel

In the ellample shown the item measures 55.92 mm (see illustration 3.12): Base measurement 55.00 mm Fine measurement 00.92 mrn Total figure 55.92 mm

3.12 Vernier gauge reading of 55.92 mm

5 Sliding scale

7 Depth gauge

6 Main scale

fuUy and check that the dial gauge reads zero. If necessary adjust the gauge ring accordingly. Slacken the vernier clamp screw (1) and set its jaws over (2), or Inside (3) , the Item to be measured (see Illu stration 3 .13). Slide the Jaws Into contact, using the thumbwheeJ (4) for fine movement. Read off the main scale (5) where the edge of the sliding scale (6) intersects it, taking the whole number to the left 01 the zero; this provides the base measurement. Read off the needle position on the dial gauge (7) scale to provide the flne measurement; each division represents 0.05 of a millimetre. Add this fine measurement to the base measurement to ob tain the total reading.

3.13 Vernier co mpo nent parts (dial gauge) Clamp screw External jaws Internal jaws Thumbwhee/

5 Ma;n scale 8 Sliding scale 7 Dial gauge

• Plastigauge is a plastic material which can be compressed between two surfaces to measure the 011 clearance between them. The width of the compressed Plastigauge is measured against a calibrated scale to determine the clearance. • Common uses of Plastlgauge are for measuring the clearance between crankshaft Journal and main bearing Inserts. between crankshaft journal and big-end bearing inserts, and between camshaft and bearing surfaces. The following example describes big-end oil clearance measurement. • Handle the Plastigauge material carefully to prevent distortion. Using a sharp knife, cut a length which corresponds with the width of the bearing being measured and place It carefully across the journal so that it is parallel with the shaft (see illustration 3.15). Carefully install both bearing shells and the connecting rod. Without rotating the rod on the journal lighten lis bOlts or nuts (as applicable) to the specified torque. The connecting rod and bearings are then disassembled and the crushed Plastlgauge examined.

• Some vernier calipers are equipped with a dial gauge for fine measurement. Before use, check that the jaws are clean, then close them

In the example shown the item measures 55.95 mm (see illustration 3.14): Base measurement 55.00 mm 00.95 mm Fine measurement Total figure 55.95 mm

1 2 3 4

REF-11

3.14 Vem ier gauge read ing of 55.95 mm

3.15 Plastigauge placed across shaft journal • Using the scale provided in the Plastigauge kit. measure the width of the material to determine the oil clearance (see illustration 3.16). Always remove all traces of Plastlgauge after use using your finoemalls. Caution: Arriving at the correct clearance demands that the assembly Is torqued correctly, according to the settings and sequence (where applicable) provided by the motorcycle manufacturer.

REF·1 2

Tools and Workshop Tips

Dial gauge or DTt (Dial Test Indicator} •

A dial gauge can be used 10 accurately

measure small amount s of movement. Typical uses ere measuring shaft runout or shaft

endfloat (sideptay) and setting piston position for ignition timing on two-strokes. A dial gauge

set usually comes with a range of different probes and adapters and mounting equipment.

• The gauge needle must point to zero when at rest. Rotate the ring around its periphery to zero the gauge. •

Check that tha gauge Is capable of reading

maximum gauge reading as the amoun t of runout In the Shaft. Note: The reading obtained will be total runout at that point some manufacturers specify that the runout ngum is halved to compare with their specified nmoullimit. • Endf!oat (sideplay) measurement requires that the gauge is mounted securely to the surrounding component with its probe touching the end of ihe shaft. Using hand pressure, push and pull on the shaft noting the maximum endlloat recorded on the gauge (see illustration 3.19).

Fault Finding Equipment. The gauge will hold the reading until manually released.

Oil pressure gauge • An 011 pressure gauge Is used for measuring engine all pressure. Most gauges come wi1h a set of adapters to fit the thread of the take-off point (see illustration 3.21). if the take-off point specified by the mOlorcycle manufacturer is an external oil pipe union, make sure that the specified replacement union is used to prevent oil starvation.

the extent of movement In the work. Most

gauges hava a small dial set In the face which records whole millimetres of movement as well

as the line scale around the face periphery which is calibrated in 0.Q1 mm divisions. Read off the small dial fi rst to ob tain the base measurement, then add the measurement from the fine scale to obtain the total reading. In the example shown the gauge reads 1.48 mm (see illustration 3.17): Base measurement 1.00 mm Fine measurement OA8mm Total figure 1.48mm

3.19 Using a dial gauge to measure shaft endtloat

3.21 Oil pressure gauge and take-off point adapter (arrow)

• A dial gauge with sultable adapters can be used to determine piston position BTOC on two-stroke engines for the purposes of Ignition timing. The gauge. adapter and suitable length probe are Installed in the place of the spark plug and the gauge zeroed at TOC. If the piston position is specified as 1.14 mm BTDC, rotate the engine back to 2.00 mm BTOC, then slowly forwards to 1.14 mm BTDC.

• Oil pressure is measured with the engine running (at a specific rpm) and otten the manufacturer wltl specify pressure limits for a cold and hot engine.

Cylinder compression gauges 3.17 Dial gauge reading of 1.48 mm • If measuring shaft runout, the shaft must be supported in vee-blocks and the gauge mounted on a stand perpendicular to the shaft. Rest the tip of the gauge against the centre of the shaft and rotate the shaft slowly whilst watching t he gauge reading (see illustration 3.18). Take several measurements along the length of the shaft and record the

• A compression gauge is used for measuring cy1inder compression. Either the rubber-cone type or the threaded adapter type can be used. The latter is preferred to ensure a perfect seal against the cylinder head. A a to 300 psi (0 to 20 Bar) type gauge (for petrol/gasoline engines) will be suitable for motorcycles. • The spark plug is removed and the gauge either held hard against the cylinder head (cone type) or the gauge adapter screwed into the cylinder head (threaded type) (see illustration 3.20). Cylinder compression is measured with the engine turning over, but not running· carry out the compression test as described in

compression gauge

Straight-edge and surface plate • If checking the gasket face of a componen t for warpage. place a steel rule or precision straight-edge across the gasket face and measure any gap between the straigh tedge and component with feeler gauges (see illustration 3.22). Check diagonally across the component and between mounting holes (see illustration 3.23).

3.22 Use a straight-edge and feeler gauges to check for warpage

3.23 Cheek f or warpage in these directions

Tools and Workshop Tips • Checking Individual components for warPi1ge, such as clutch plain (metal) plates, requires a perlectly flat plate or piece or plate glass and feeler gauges.

4 Torque and leverage

What is torque? •

Torque describes the twisting force about

a shaft. The amount of torque applied Is determined by the distance from Ihe centre of Ihe shaft to the end of the lever and Ihe amount of force being applied to the end of the lever. distance multiplied by force equals torque,

• The manufacturer applies a measured torque to a boll or nut to ensure that it will not slacken in use and to hold two components securely together without movement in the joint. The actual torque setting depends on the thread size, bolt or nut material and Ihe composition of the components being held. • Too little torque may cause the fastener to loosen due to vibration, whereas too much torque will distort the joint faces o f the component or cause the fastener to shear off. Always stick to the specified torque setting.

Using a torque wrench • Check the cal ibration of the to rque wrench and make sure it has a suitable range for the job. Torque wrenches are available in Nm (Newton-metres), kgf m (kilograms-force metre), Ibf It (pounds- feel), Ibf in (Inchpounds). 00 not confuse Ibf tt wilh Ibl in. • Adjust Ihe 1001 to Ihe desired torque on the scale (see flIustration 4.1). II your torque wrench is not calibrated in the units specified, carefully convert the figure (see Conversion Factors). A manu facturer sometimes gives a torque setting as a range (8 to 10 Nm) rather than a single figure - In this case set the tool midway between the two settings. The same torque may be expressed as 9 Nm ;10 1 Nm. Some torque wrenches have a method of locking the setting so that It Isn't Inadvertently altered during use.

4.1 Set the torque wrench indell. mark to the setting required, in this case 12 Nm

Inslall the bolts/nuts in their correct • location and secure them lighlly. Their threads must be clean and free of any old locking compound. Unless specified the threads and flange should be dry - oiled threads are necessary in certain circumstances and the manufacturer will take this Into accoun t in the specified torque figure. Similarly, the manufacturer may also specify the application of thread-locking compound. • Tighten the fasteners In the specified sequence until the torqu e wrench clicks, IndIcating that the torque settlng has been reached. Apply the torque again to doubleCheck the setting. Where different thread diameter fasteners secure the component, as a rule tighten the larger diameter ones first. • When the torque wrench has been finished with, release the lock (where applicable) and fully back off its setting to zero - do not leave the torque wrench tensioned. Also, do not use a torque wrench for slackening a fastener.

REF·1 3

Loosening sequences • Where more than one bolt/nut secures a component, loosen each fastener eyenly a little at a time. In this way, not alilhe stress of the joInt Is held by one fastener and the components are nol likely to distort. • If a tightening sequence is provided, work in the REVERSE of this, but if not, work from the outside In, In a criss-cross sequence (see illustration 4.4).

Angle-tightening • Manufacturers often specify a figure in degrees tor final tightening of a fastener. ThIs usually follows tightening to a specific torque setting. • A degree disc can be set and attached to the socket (see Illustration 4.2) Of a protractor can be used to mark the angle of mo vement on the bolVnut head and the surroundIng casting (see illustration 4.3).

4.4 When slackening, work from the outside inwards

Tightening sequences • If a component is held by more than one fastener it is important that the retaining bolts/nuts are tightened evenly 10 prevent uneven stress build -up and distortion of sealing faces. This is especially important on high-compression joints such as the cylinder head. • A sequence is usually provided by the manufacturer, either In a diagram or actually marked In the casting. If not, always start in the centre and work out wards In a criss-cross pattern (see illustration 4.5). Start off by securing all bolts/nuts finger-t ight, then set the torque wrench and tighten each fastener by a small amount in sequence untli the final torque is reached. By following this practice,

4.2 Angle tightening can be accomplished with a torque-angle gauge .. ,

4.3 ... or by marking the angie on the surrounding component

4.5 When tightening, work from the inside outwards

REFo 14

Tools and Workshop Tips

the joint will be held evenly and will not be

distorted. Important joints, such as the cylinder head and big-end fasteners oiten have two- or three-stage torque settings.

Applying leverage • Use tools at the correct angle. Position a socket wrench or spanner on the bolt/nu t so that you puillt towards you when loosening. II

this can't be done, push the spanner without curling your fingers around it (see Hlustration 4.6) ｾ＠ the spanner may slip or the fastener loosen suddenly. resulting in you r fingers being crushed against a component.

• The same equipment can be used to Install bearings. Make sure the bearing housing Is supported on wood blocks and line up the bearing In Its housing. At the bearing as noted on rem oval - generally they are instaJled with Ihelr marked side facing outwards. Tap the bearing squarely Into lis hOUSing using a driver or socket which bears only on the bearing's outer race - contact with the bearing balis/rollers or Inner race will destroy it (see lIIustrations 5.1 and 5.2). • Check that the bearing inner race and balls/rollers rotate freely.

5.4 Where no access is available to the rear of the bearing, it is sometimes possible to draw off the adjacent co mponent

4.6 If you can't pull on the spanner to loosen a fastener, push with your hand open •

Additional leverage Is gained by extending

off a gear shaft for example. you may have to locate the puller behind a gear pinion It there is no access to the race and draw the gear pinion off the shaft as well (see illustration 5.4). Caution: Ensure that the puller's centre bolt locates securely against the end of the shaft and will not slip when pressure is applied. Also ensure that puller does not damage the shaft end.

5.1 Using a bearing driver against the bearing's outer race

the length 01 the lever. The best way to do this is to use a breaker bar instead of the regular length tool, or to slip a length of tubing over the end of the spanner or socket wrench. • If additional leverage will not wor k, the fastener head is either damaged or firmly corroded in place (see Fasteners).

• Operate the puller so Ihat Its centre bolt exerts pressure on the shaft end and draws the bearing off the snaft. • When Installing the bearing on the shaft, tap only on Ihe bearing's Inner race - contact with the baliS/rollers or outer race with destroy the bearing. Use a socket or length of tubing as a drift which fits over the Shaft end (see illustration 5.5).

5 Bearings

Bearing removal and installation Drivers and sockets • Before removing a bearing. always inspe"t the c8sing to see which way It must be driven out - some casings will have retaining plates or a cast step. Also check for any identifying markings on the bearing and if installed to a certain depth, measure this at this stage. Some roller bearings are sealed on one side . take note of the original fitted posillon. • Bearings can be driven out of a casing using a bearing driver tool (with lhe correc t size head) or a sockel of the correct diameter. Select the driver head or socket so thai It contacts the outer race of the bearing, not the balls/rollers or inner race. Always support the casing around the bearing housing with wood blocks, otherwise there is a risk of fracture. The bearing is driven out with a few blows on the driver or socket from a heavy mallet. Unless access is severely restricted (as with wheel bearings), a pin-punch is not recommended unless it is moved around the bearing to keep It square in its housing.

5.2 Using a large socket against the bearing's outer race

Pullers and slide-hammers • Where a bearing Is pressed on a shaft a puller will be required to extract It (see illUstration 5.3). Make sure tha t the puller clamp or legs fit se