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POME VEGETABLE GARDENING
Home Vegetable Gardening by Charles
H.
Nissley
Extension Horticulturist in Vegetable Growing WITH AN INTRODUCTION
by William
H. Martin
Dean, College of Agriculture, Rutgers University ILLUSTRATED BY RUTH NISSLEY
New
Brunswick
Rutgers University Press 194z
COPYRIGHT,
1942,
BY
THE IN
TRUSTEES
NEW
OF
RUTGERS
COLLEGE
JERSEY
All rights reserved. No portion of this boo\ may be reprinted without permission except brief passages quoted by a reviewer in a review published in a newspaper or a magazine
SECOND PRINTING: MARCH, 1 9 4 2
P R I N T E D I N T H E U N I T E D STATES OF A M E R I C A
PREFACE S I N C E vegetables form such an important part of the diet of the American people, their use should be more universally adopted. Vegetables are essential for normal and healthy body development in supplying minerals, vitamins, acids, cellulose, and other elements. The home or family garden can abundantly supply the family needs throughout the year if the family requirements are carefully studied and garden plans and cultural practices are efficiently executed. The home garden is just as important in times of peace as in times of war; it is also important in times of abundance or depression, because people must eat to live and to be healthy and happy. The aim in the preparation of this boo\ has been to give practical information on the needs of the individual or the family so that they may be in a better position to plan more adequately for their important food requirements, and to give simple instructions covering the important cultural practices in the successful growing of these crops. This boo\ was also written with the hope that the information could be used by county agricultural agents, home demonstration agents, 4-H Club agents, vocational schoolteachers, and others interested in the successful operation of the family garden, because much of the information condensed and brought together here cannot be found in any other single publication. This boo\ is the result of practical experience and includes a review of literature pertaining to the home vegetable garden issued by the majority of the state agricultural colleges in the country, a review of boo\s written by authorities, and bulletins
v
vi
PREFACE
published by the United States Department of Agriculture. Acknowledgments and references to these sources of information are given throughout the text. CHARLES H .
Rutgers University New Brunswic\ New Jersey
NISSLEY
CONTENTS PREFACE INTRODUCTION T H E FUNDAMENTALS OF VEGETABLE GROWING
The Vegetable Garden Seed Preparing the Garden Soil Growing Early Plants for the Garden Common Garden Planting Practices Storing Vegetables for Winter Use Garden Pests and Their Control Diseases Attaching Vegetable Crops Relative Distribution of Vitamins
3 5
J
27 38 45 54 79 83
A L I S T OF THE MOST IMPORTANT VEGETABLES
Artichokes Asparagus Beans Beets Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Chinese Cabbage Carrots Cauliflou/er Celery Celeriac or Knob Celery
Chard (Swiss Chard) Chicory or French Endive 97 106 Chives 109 Collards 112 Cress (Water Cress) 114 Cucumbers 120 Dandelions Eggplant 123 126 Endive 129 Garlic Horse-Radish Kale 133 vii 87
134
93
137 139
140 143
144 149 150 153 155
156 158
via
CONTENTS
Kohlrabi hee\s Lettuce Mushrooms Mus\melon or Cantaloupe Mustard Greens 0\ra Onions Parsley Parsnips Peas Peppers Pumpkins Radishes
L6L 163 165 X67 169 172 174 176 179 L8L 183 L86 189
Rhubarb Rutabagas Salsify (Oyster Plant) Shallot Sorrel Spinach Squash Sweet Corn Sweet Potatoes Tomatoes Turnips Watermelons White or Irish Potatoes
193 196 198 199 200 202 205 208 210 213 217 220 222
191
HERB CROPS
Anise Basil Caraway Coriander Dill
227 227 228 228
Sweet Marjoram Mint Sage Thyme
229 230 230 231
229
SEED AND SEED TREATMENT
Vegetable Seed Disinfection Home Selection and Saving of Vegetable Seed
235 240
INTRODUCTION INTEREST in the home vegetable garden in the next few years may equal, and possibly even surpass, the previous peak of 1917 and 1918. Although at present there seems no reason to fear that our farmers cannot produce all the vegetables and other foodstuffs needed both for domestic consumption and for export to other nations engaged in resisting aggression, nevertheless it would be a short-sighted policy if we attempted to dampen the enthusiasm of urban and suburban residents for growing some of their own vegetables. Rather, the home agriculturists should seek to guide this activity to the end that the seed, fertilizer, money and good hard manual labor invested in their gardens will yield satisfactory results.
We should avoid the mistakes of the First World War when the home owner was urged to plow up his lawns, his flower beds, and even his tennis court to grow vegetables. In too many cases, such ventures were dismal failures from the standpoint of the production of foodstuffs, even though the exercise from the unaccustomed use of numerous deep hidden muscles probably justified the effort. In this present emergency we should see to it that the prospective gardener has the information which will enable him to get satisfactory returns on his investment. This is Professor Nissley's purpose, and in the preparation of this book he has made an extremely valuable contribution to our present defense effort. Growing vegetables at home has certain very definite values year in and year out. On the spiritual side, it affords the genuine uplift which comes from working with living ix
X
INTRODUCTION
things. Gardening is a source of healthful exercise and in many cases, of tastier, more nutritious foods for the table. In the present emergency it has the added value of helping to relieve the tremendous burden of our means of transportation, and the even greater benefit of giving to the gardener a sense of doing something, of contributing to the stupendous task of total defense. Moreover, when the garden is well tended, it can confer real economic benefits on the family—benefits which will be especially appreciated by those large groups whose incomes have not risen and will not rise in line with living costs, taxes and extraordinary demands upon civilian pocketbooks. For these and many other reasons it is gratifying to greet a book like this, intensely practical, simple yet comprehensive, a veritable Baedeker for the home vegetable grower. WILLIAM H .
Rutgers University, New Brunswic\, New Jersey January, 1942
MARTIN,
Dean, College of Agriculture
THE FUNDAMENTALS OF VEGETABLE GARDENING
THE
VEGETABLE
GARDEN
EVERY AMERICAN HOME should have a vegetable garden. For inexpensive food, for health, for recreation, a well-managed garden is an asset to any family. Today, more than ever before, the health of every American is essential as we strive to maintain and to preserve our democratic way of life. In quality and flavor the fresh products picked from the garden and served within a short time are far superior to those vegetables, days old, purchased at the market. Again, the garden oilers a variety from which to choose, making it easier for the housewife to prepare a well-balanced meal. Vegetables have a distinct place in the daily diet because: 1. They help to balance the diet and to prevent deficiencies in minerals and vitamins, while also helping to regulate the work of the body. 2. T h e y furnish vitamins which help in building and keeping bodies strong, ensure good appetite, digestion, and elimination, and safeguard against infection and disease. 3. They supply minerals to build strong bones, teeth, and other tissues, and make rich red blood. These minerals are especially valuable for growing children. 4. They provide bulk or roughage which helps to carry off waste and prevent constipation. 5. T h e y add color, variety, and flavor to daily meals. 6. They save money which can be used for other needs. Whether one lives on a farm, in a rural village, or has a
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VEGETABLE GARDENING
small lot or back yard in a suburban town or city, the garden may be m a d e a place of pleasure and profit. T h e fresh vegetables produced not only represent an important saving, but also form a most profitable and helpful part in the well-balanced diet. T o the suburban or city dweller especially, the garden is a place of pleasant recreation for the adult and a revelation to youngsters who observe for themselves just how plants grow. N o two vegetable crops have the same amount of minerals or vitamins. For this reason, the selection of vegetables to be grown in the home garden must be based upon the nutritional needs of the family in order to ensure good growth in children and good health for other members of the family. Some vegetables f r o m each group or class should be raised. T o m a k e a better selection of the crops to grow in the garden, the important vegetables are classified according to their richness in certain minerals and vitamins. The leaves of plants are good sources of minerals, such as calcium and iron, and also are sources of vitamins. T h e thinner and greener the leaf, the richer its food value. T h e following vegetables are included in this g r o u p : beet greens, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, collards, endive, kale, escarole, lettuce, mustard greens, parsley, romaine, Swiss chard, dandelion, and seven-top turnip greens. Green vegetables are similar in value to the leaf crops and include green string beans, green lima beans, green varieties of celery, peas, green onions, green asparagus, broccoli, a n d green sweet peppers. Yellow vegetables are a good source of vitamin A and include such crops as carrots, yellow turnips, yellow corn, rutabagas, yellow squash, pumpkins, and sweet potatoes. The tomato, often called the "poor man's orange," is a good source of vitamin C . Other vegetables, including cucumbers, celery, beets, corn,
VEGETABLE DIET NEEDS
5
onions, parsnips, eggplant, radishes, and white turnips, supply minerals and vitamins in varying amounts, each valuable in its own particular way. The following table* is recommended by food authorities for winter as well as summer: EACH
SERVINGS
PERSON
APPROXIMATE YEARLY A M O U N T S FOR F A M I L Y
NEEDS
OF
FIVE
Potatoes white or sweet
One or two servings daily
T o m a t o or citrus fruit or any raw vegetable or fruit
One serving daily
Yellow, green, or leafy vegetables
One serving daily
5 2 0 to 9 1 0 pounds
Other vegetables
One serving daily
390 to 780 pounds
Dried peas beans
One or two servings weekly
6 5 to 1 3 0 pounds
or
io to 1 5 bushels 390 to 5 2 0 pounds
The more strenuously a person works or plays, the more food he must consume. Age and physical exercise are important factors which must be considered in determining the amount of food each person requires. Young children and older people eat less. Teen-age children need as much food as adults. The amounts of vegetables listed in the table are only suggestions and give the lower and upper limits. The upper limit, however, means a generous supply and provides for a higher standard of health for the entire family. The family should never go below the lower limit as outlined in the table if it wishes to maintain good health. •Extension Bulletin No. 34 "Home Vegetable Gardening," University of Delaware, Newark, Delaware, March, 1941.
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VEGETABLE GARDENING
WHAT TO PLANT T o PROVIDE the family with a variety of vegetables throughout the year at least twenty of the fifty different vegetables listed should be planted. To have a well-balanced garden three main groups of vegetables should be selected. These vegetable groups include: ( i ) the root crops, such as carrots, beets, and potatoes; (2) the fruit crops, such as peas, beans, and tomatoes; and (3) the leafy crops, such as lettuce and cabbage. Special provisions should be made for crops which may be*used as substitutes for meat—peas, beans, and eggplant; for crops desirable for canning—beans, corn, peas, spinach, and tomatoes; for crops which can be stored for winter use —the root crops (potatoes, beets, carrots, turnips), and other crops like celery, cabbage, onions, squash, and pumpkins. If the garden plot is small, it will not pay to grow crops which require a large amount of space to develop. Watermelons, pumpkins, squash, cucumbers, cantaloupes, and sweet corn do not yield as much per square foot of space as do the more intensive vegetable crops like radishes, lettuce, Swiss chard, parsley, chives, and other vegetables or herbs. The size of the garden plot, therefore, will determine the selection of the crops. If the family garden is to be a real food-producing undertaking, providing a well-balanced supply of vegetables rich in protein and carbohydrates, the personal preferences of the members of the family must be taken into consideration in choosing the crops to be grown and the varieties selected. WHEN TO PLANT T H E T I M E to plant vegetables in the garden will depend upon weather conditions and also the kind of crops to be sown. Latitude and altitude largely govern weather conditions because the crops planted in the garden in the extreme southern portion of the United States seldom experience a
TEMPERATURE REQUIREMENTS
7
killing frost. However, as we travel north and reach the Canadian border, the weather becomes severer and the summer, or growing season, becomes increasingly shorter. Of the fifty common vegetables listed, some will withstand winter freezing, while others are very susceptible even to continuous cool nights. Vegetable crops are classified into four groups, according to their temperature requirements : 1. Very hardy vegetable crops are those not injured by severe winter freezing. These crops include asparagus, horse-radish, parsnips, rhubarb, salsify, and the winter onion. 2. Hardy crops are those which will withstand light frost but not freezing either in the early spring or late fall. The most common of these crops are cabbage, cauliflower, beets, carrots, turnips, onions, lettuce, peas, endive, radishes, and spinach. 3. Tender crops are those easily injured by frost. These are represented by crops such as sweet corn, snap beans, squash, cucumbers, and tomatoes. 4. Very tender crops are those which may be injured by continual cool weather even without frost. In this group are included such crops as lima beans, eggplant, peppers, and muskmelon. The crops listed in groups 1 and 2 may be planted safely in the spring as soon as the ground can be easily prepared, while the crops in groups 3 and 4 must not be planted until all danger of late spring frosts has passed, unless, of course, one wishes to take a chance on a late frost or is willing to provide protection for the plants. LOCATION AND SIZE OF G A R D E N T H E SIZE OF THE GARDEN will be determined by the amount of ground or space available. In the city the space may not
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VEGETABLE GARDENING
be larger than a ten-by-twenty-foot plot of ground, but even under these restricted conditions it is remarkable what a large amount of foodstuffs can be grown. In the suburban areas there is usually more space for growing vegetables. A vacant lot may often be rented for very little, if any, cost for the operation of a nice garden. In villages and on farms, land is usually unlimited, and in these areas as much as an acre of ground may be set aside for the growing of vegetable crops for family use. In many instances it may not be possible to choose the location of the garden. In any event, the soil must be well drained so that all surface water may seep readily into the subsoil within a few hours after falling. Thorough drainage of the soil is one of the first requisites for success in vegetable growing. Shade trees interfere with the growth of crops. Vegetables need full sunlight as well as a maximum amount of moisture and plant nutrients. They cannot compete with the foliage of trees for sunlight or with the roots of trees for moisture or food. Tree roots usually extend a considerable distance from the trunk and, in many cases, dry out the soil at the expense of other plants. A southern or southeastern slope will warm up earlier in the spring than will other exposures, but this detail is not too important since good vegetable gardens may be located on other slopes or on level ground. On the farm the family garden should be kept near the house because ease of access is important where the women do much of the garden work and where vegetables may be harvested an hour or two before they are used. The area also should be easily accessible to horses or a tractor. GARDEN
TOOLS
AND
EQUIPMENT
ELABORATE EQUIPMENT is not necessary. A spading fork, an iron rake, a hoe, a trowel, a cord for making straight rows,
GARDEN E Q U I P M E N T
9
and a good hand duster are adequate. A good spading fork is needed so that the soil can be deeply spaded in the early spring or just before planting. It will also be needed to dig under manure, fertilizer, lime, and other recommended materials.
A very jew tools are needed for the garden. T h e iron rake is used to smooth the surface soil and to make a fine seedbed. T h e cord will aid in making straight rows. Y o u will find that straight rows are more easily cultivated and present a better appearance than crooked ones. Either a dibble or a hand trowel is used for putting plants into the ground; the hoe is used for making furrows, for seed planting, and for weeding. T h e hand duster is used for the control of insects or leaf-spot diseases. T h e entire equipment need not cost more than five or six dollars and will last for many years. Equipment costing considerably more may be obtained
A hand dibble ma\es planting of small plants an easy tas\.
by the enthusiast operating a large garden. Wheel cultivators, garden hand seeders, or even a small garden tractor may be economical purchases when a large family is to be fed from the cultivated area. Other types of equipment, such as overhead irrigation, which will be discussed later, may be included to provide for efficiency and maximum yields.
THE GARDEN PLAN
II
THE GARDEN PLAN A WELL-DEVELOPED PLAN is necessary if each square foot is to yield its maximum. N o definite plan can be given as the best for all conditions. Each garden must be laid out by itself; the kind of vegetables to be grown and the system of cropping must be governed not only by the area and kind of soil, but by personal taste, the amount to be produced, and the supply available in the local markets to supplement that in the garden. Where space is limited, the smaller, quickly maturing, and highly nutritive vegetables, such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, endive, tomatoes, and beans, which must be used fresh are recommended. Since they have to be cultivated by hand they may be planted close together. O n larger areas a greater variety is possible, and planting should be at distances that allow for more air circulation and for either horse or tractor cultivation. If vegetables are to be canned or stored for winter supply, the garden must also be proportionately larger. Where this is possible, early potatoes, sweet corn, pumpkins, squash, and many others of the vegetables which require more space may be grown. T h e garden plan should be drawn to scale on paper and should include planting distances, varieties, and the number of feet of row necessary to supply the family, and the amount of seed needed. A l l these records should be preserved on paper so that the operator can improve his plans from year to year and add to his store of information. T h e following suggestions may be helpful: 1. R u n the rows north and south, if possible. Plants will thus shade one another less and so receive more sunlight. 2. Perennial vegetables, such as small fruits, asparagus, rhubarb, horse-radish, and other crops which remain in one place for several years, should be located at one side of the garden so they will not interfere with the spading, planting, or cultivating of annual crops.
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VEGETABLE GARDENING
3. Crops which remain in the garden throughout the entire growing season are best located where they will not be disturbed. These crops include parsnips, salsify, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and eggplants. 4. Early crops should be planted together so that when they are harvested, the space can be used again for fall crops. These early crops include peas, onion sets for use as green onions or scallions, lettuce, radishes, and spinach. 5. Tall-growing crops (like corn and pole beans) and vine crops (like squash and cucumbers) should be planted on one side of the garden where they will not shade or overrun the smaller crops.
Succession Planting Beans planted at ten-day intervals will provide a continuous supply throughout the growing season. 6. Successive cropping should be practiced in every garden. This may be carried on in two ways. One crop may follow another crop in the same season. For example, late cabbage or sugar corn may be planted in the space from which early peas, snap beans, lettuce, or radishes have been harvested. Or successive planting of the same crop may be made at intervals of from seven to ten days, which will provide a continuous supply of such crops as sweet corn, string beans, spinach, and radishes from the earliest harvest to frost time. 7. Companion cropping is the growing of two or more crops on the same area at one time. Quick-maturing
THE GARDEN PLAN
!3
crops like spinach, beans, kale, lettuce, and radishes may be planted either between the rows or in the rows of eggplant, tomatoes, melons, okra, or other crops which occupy the ground during the entire season. The early crops will have time to mature and be harvested before the later ones will require the entire space for proper development.
O O O O O
TT* ir
24" 1