Haynes Volkswagen Golf, Jetta and Scirocco Service and Repair Manual 1859602797, 9781859602799

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‘Excellent value for money, beginners and experts should find it equally

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useful...’ Motor

ervice and Repair Manual

There is almost certainly a Haynes Manual to cover your specific vehicle, whatever its age. Each manual features clear, easy-to-follow text linked to hundreds of step-by-step photos that guide you through each task. From the simplest service to a major rebuild, Haynes shows you how and saves you money.

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MO UN TA IN ‘ BI

KIN GIS FR sh y

26D EDITION

VW Golf, Jetta & CIrocco

ervice and Repair Manual A K Legg emin Models covered

(726-304-9Y8)

All VW Golf, Jetta and Scirocco ‘Mk 1’ models with

1457 cc, 1471 cc, 1588 cc & 1781 cc petrol engines including fuel injection Does not cover Caddy, diesel engine or ‘Mk 2’ models

ABCDE

i

© Haynes Publishing 1997 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

e

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any

form

or

by

any

means,

electronic

or

mechanical,

including

photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 279 7

British Library Cataloguing Publication Data bGok is available from the British Library. A catalogue record for this

Printed by J H Haynes & Co Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes S.A. Tour Aurore - La Défense 2, 18 Place des Reflets, 92975 PARIS LA DEFENSE Cedex, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

&

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR VOLKSWAGEN Introduction

Page

Safety First!

Page

Dimensions, weights and capacities

Page

004 005 0°6

Identifying leaks

Page

0°8

Jump starting

Page

0°9

Jacking and towing

Page

0°10

Tyre checks

Page

Oe11

Routine Maintenance

Page

0°12

Page

0°16

Roadside Repairs

Routine Maintenance

Recommended

Lubricants and Fluids

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine (also see Chapter 12)

Page

1e1

Cooling system

Page

2e1

Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems (also see Chapter 12) Ignition system (also see Chapter 12)

Page

301

Page

41

Clutch

Page

5e1

Manual gearbox and automatic transmission (also see Chapter 12)

Page

621

Driveshafts

Page

7e1

Page

821

Page

921

Page

10e1

Page

1191

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Page

12¢1

Wiring Diagrams

Page

13¢1

Transmission

Brakes Braking system (also see Chapter 12)

Electrical Electrical system (also see Chapter 12)

Suspension & Steering Suspension and steering (also see Chapter 12)

Bodywork Bodywork and fittings (also see Chapter 12)

Additional information

MOT Test Checks

Page

REFe1

Tools and Working Facilities

Page

REFe5

General Repair Procedures

Page

REFe8

ers Numb tion ifica Ident le Vehic & Parts Spare g Buyin

Page

REFe9

Fault Finding

Page

REFe10

Glossary of Technical Terms

Page

REFe13

Index

Page

REFe17

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VW Jetta GLS

VW Scirocco

Introduction to the Golf, Jetta and Scirocco Introduced in 1974, the new VW Golf soon established itself as a market leader in its class. Together with the mechanically similar Scirocco Sports Coupe, these vehicles set new standards of design integrity which have since been emulated by many of the world’s leading motor manufacturers. Following on the success of the Golf and Scirocco, a more traditional notchback Saloon, the Jetta, was introduced in 1980 to conform to changing market trends and a demand for a conventionally styled ‘3-box’ saloon in the middle range. To further enhance

the

appeal

of these

vehicles

OR eg

f

a6

a

convertible version of the Golf, together with a

Pick-up utility vehicle, have also been added to the model line-up. All models feature a transversely mounted engine/transmission configuration with frontwheel-drive and the now almost universally accepted ‘conventional’ independent front, semi-independent rear suspension layout. A wide range of trim and equipment options are also available.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion

Spark Plug

who supplied the illustrations showing spark

plug conditions. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant, who provided some of the workshop tools, and ail the staff at Sparkford who helped in the production of this Manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

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Safety First! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards Scalding ¢ Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. ¢ Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot

immediately after use.

Crushing ¢ When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never venture

under a car which is only supported by a jack. ¢ Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

¢ Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the °°, engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also ~ poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

ca

Poisonous or irritant substances e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,

seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

¢ Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). ¢ Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. ¢ Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

ae

Electric shock “k ©

¢ Ignition HT voltage canbe

dangerous,

a

let especially to Z people with heart problems or a _pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

¢ When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery ¢ Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. ¢ The hydrogen gas given off by the battery

is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... DO

DON’T

¢ Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

e Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance.

© Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

* Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. © Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. ¢ Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before

working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. ¢ Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

¢ Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

e Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

¢ Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

¢ Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

s e i t i c a p a C d n a s t h g i e W , o Dimensions

Dimensions Overall length Golf (add 20 mm/0.8 in with headlight washers) ...........+....-. Jetta (add 25 mm/1.0 in with headlight washers) ................. _ Scirocco (add 65 mm/2.5 in with headlight washers) .............. tase chest trae teeoccte ete oie at« oekmamey eiiaiersiete eke wneelens PICKUP) «epee

3815 4195 3885 4275

mm mm mm mm

in) in) in) in)

(150.2 (165.2 (153.0 (168.3

Overall width «epee mmedeLae” compres ayers Sragsrarsee SRLS RETR ePa nee EIS IME Felis wiles Ss. 6.> enepe co ae lostetege enol Papas SCIOCCOMIE

1630 mm (64.2 in) 1630 mm (64.2 in) 1624 mm (63.9 in)

ae Neer na Pat ere Aes cieuate tte ema aie aw ene

1608 mm (63.3 in)

Golf (carburettomengie) Peevieriaces yet ese tebewoa 5 ene ide souceyensho dope tiene

1410 mm (65.5 in)

Se SID. Sass Qevee eee wake ay Goli(CIS) meet aetna Jetta (WIthSHIKWlengine) mie Arsen eeRNNS. 5 5 sco ances vgs ers cm eaerop een as AMY. « spouse spin eneteus opens ayes Jetta (With Sion 82 kKVWWienGine)ML ake ores enh Gysia sis opelaang ofwroreiat aereananeus Sieve oeTHO OLE Rete SCINOCCOM asia tush os wsSih ie Mae es cece Meas Maaco a enero RIGK SUP Bere ees

1395 1410 1395 1309 1382

PICKUP

Meare

ent ec eee

Overall height mm mm mm mm mm

(64.9 (65.5 (64.9 (61.5 (54.4

in) in) in) in) in)

Ground clearance ith: «scene cccacsoer untae ne Golfi(carburettor engine) stiser, stewtiemeee

125 mm (4.9 in)

es axiode te ears >«cue Golfi(CIS) erccusee: xc. A 9 SAORI TICINO) sic, tare catsic Shes coehde ann i. 750ops Eebige assuage Uinta omc J@ta (WITS ss xtcvechstie cucyreciek nsf mueeng ace Jetta WithSInOmecikVW) ONGING) wintertime SCIOCCOM RE AAOGHAG Botta ARO RO MG Fe = 5c auaula eee mycnccnutieycusux

117 125 117 117

Bickeurol(ACem) mettas arse seine. eases

117 mm (4.6 in)

Oe

oi. as cageusileteyes Slegenalsiegaue

mm mm mm mm

(4.6 (4.9 (4.6 (4.6

in) in) in) in)

Wheelbase AlmOGe|S tener tereattewrinte reteieite sieceye cee. oko cinco &:cgiicgrennie cus neueusu torent

2398 mm (94.4 in)

Turning circle (wall to wall) All modelseee

ares aaeee

meee

et ete

ee «cate soe

et Seine (Oe

10.3 m (33.8 ft)

Weights Kerb weight Ctolir 2elovelr (RO Civelln bopoconaccanusnrobuc-.oouoducoce Goll;2-doorr(WithSiions2: KW:-engine)h.:y.urine aii ire ienehaere Golf 2-door (with ‘automatic transmission) ....2..sessesse eee see

800 kg (1763 Ib) 840 kg (1852 Ib) 830 kg (1830 Ib)

(Eloi olororexuiinoml A WieIeliNe)) Seo mocotcsac eso cghcocvobognomen Golf 4 door (with automatic transmission) ................0.0000 GolfiGonverntible ms setae stiches cucls © cchctoucun atencure sotto cece nara ere

825 kg (1819 Ib) 855 kg (1885 Ib) 940 kg (2072 Ib)

Jettal2-GOOn(WIthioil): KWEGMGING) eee sts viv ts:cistcls:sun cee cunei ncnenrRnen eee Jetta 2-door (with|81 or 82 kWeengine) «2... 02.6... 0. nce e anv ene

825 kg (1819 Ib) 865 kg (1907 Ib)

Jetta 2-door (with automatic transmission) ...................005 Jetta 4-doorn(withiol KVVengine)im: «aswedtacie cts. vetics cals epee Jetta'4-door (with 81 or 82 kW engine) ..... 265... eee eee eee ee Jetta 4-door (with automatic transmission) .............0.0e0 eee

855 850 890 880

SCIOCCOMMME MA MUAlLTranShtySSlOniaew etek rel ancyereen ene an Prien) tise SCIrOcco Withrautomatic tranSiMiSSiON! se cei ean cede steneyarenes 6)aie

800 kg (1764 Ib) 825 kg (1819 Ib)

kg kg kg kg

(1885 (1874 (1962 (1940

Ib) Ib) Ib) Ib)

Trailor load (max) With brakes (except 81 and 82 kWengine)

...................00-

With brakesi(GiamaiezakVVEeM Cite) merreners cisverss att)ora cistele) nee eaaeene Without brakes. ieememer ersten si O-saliars sir Srantie aace rs aclu cae are eee

1000 kg (2205 Ib) 1200 kg (2646 Ib) 400 kg (882 Ib)

Roof rack load (max) All models

soon

at

Otten

ee

eae

75 kg (165 Ib)

Dimensions, Weights and Capacities o-7 Capacities Engine oil Witty Utes Bos bec @ coc.8 tao. OIEREMEEO O/ore D Ost iC ORE Cee NOR Ra ene a NVICOUTITLCT meeumemeneg amardent. ola eieiecte eras « oe o.s.cucie 5 sus cus tcid + 2» Difference between Min and Max on dipstick .................005

6.0 Imp pt; 3.4 litres 5.25 Imp pt; 3.0 litres 1.75 Imp pt; 1.0 litres

Manual gearbox and final drive PUES OCC tere eect fieroteaaiaTy a '«ueylescha SeaMeRUe Ae TE ESD OCC matter «Cori tii: Men EMME.

ee «xo Kou ngniiya agghondngle. 3 vis «ace. amnahireouayeg, hyies

2.6 Imp pt; 1.5 litres 3.5 Imp pt; 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission fluid BCHLEUATRONNITCINY aerate a ReaRIar ene Mee MME eR ec cites coke widlarebatere ebayer aua’s « SENViCe Atel ANC Onl) weet tea seueie esSeavsATO ets cw oe wimaaybenleunwtevwyaliede FAULOMMaAallGthanShiSSiONMMalGnVG: enicciGice ks sce st cee na wen ees

10.6 Imp pt; 6.0 litres 5.3 Imp pt; 3.0 litres 1.3 Imp pt; 0.75 litre

Cooling system mae tee sk Sc Wee ha eee eee ce ee VVEMOXDANSIONNGMIKMt MENGE OX AMISIO MAU Ke nal er aisinresn um cue awe a cls Cpa oleus cucu onnsens Siasecieyn ens

1.4 Imp gal; 6.5 litres 1 Imp gal; 4.6 litres

Fuel tank (approx) Golf: RES RAR rr EETAN IMOLS VEY Bees es a cin Oe cho Ooi Codie Clk ACR ei eri ee eer VANE Tiree ee tor chs ee crete Cecio Sy ttc: ene namctneiere wale sr see a ss awstats bys we Sern ees GoniverniblemOdelss. ateteberustels hghe n s susi n =ckcreu M c= + R witha e EL AtGe SCIOCCONNOCEIS cEiOars MIG

10.5 Imp gal; 50 litres 9.9 Imp gal; 45 litres 12 Imp gal; 55 litres 9.9 Imp gal; 45 litres

og Roadside Repairs

Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false’ impression of where the problem lies.

Sump oil

i

and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of

contaminated clothing, without delay.

leaking id flu a of ll sme The HAYNES from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

HINT

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Oil fro m filter

-

4

AN

Warning: Most automotive oils

"X

®

-

="

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oilfilter.

Gearbox oil inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreez

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

, HAYNES

Jump starting will getyou out of trouble, but you must HINT correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

Roadside Repairs og Jump starting

|

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: V

1) The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

VY Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

Before connecting the booster

‘

battery, make sure that the ignition

If the battery is being jump-started

is switched off.

leaving the lights on. 2) The charging system is not working

from the battery in another vehicle,

the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

VY Ensure that all electrical equipment

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or

ree

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is

broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). 3) The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Y

BN ren eon, Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.

VY Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Bae ik

2 to the positive (+) terminal of the flat

battery I

ich

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery

I I I I I = |

ht

3

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

4

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started

I I I I |

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine

te le

ae ee

ee

ee

ee

eee

ee

ee

ee

eee

ee

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed,

disconnect

the

jump

in the reverse order of connection

leads

o10 Roadside Repairs

Jacking and towing Jacking The jack supplied with the car is intended only for wheel changing in an emergency. For any other work it should be supplemented by axle stands or blocks. Do not venture under the car when it is supported solely by a jack. To change a roadwheel, first remove the spare wheel and tool kit from the well in the rear compartment (photo) on all models except the Pick-up. Apply the handbrake and chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one to be changed. Make sure that the car is positioned on firm level ground. Lever off the bolt caps or hub cover and slightly loosen the wheel bolts with the spanner provided. Raise the jack and locate it under the reinforced area in the sill below the wedge-shaped mark (photo). Raise the jack until the wheel is free of the ground, then unscrew the bolts and withdraw the roadwheel. Locate the spare wheel on the hub and tighten the bolts lightly. Lower the jack, then

Jacking the car

finally tighten the wheel bolts and refit the hub cover or bolt caps. Remove the chocks and refit the wheel and tool kit to the rear compartment.

wheels suspended. Towing by suspending the rear of the vehicle is not recommended, and must never be attempted with automatic transmission or Pick-up models.

Towing Towing eyes are provided at the front and rear of the car beneath the bumpers (photos), except on the Pick-up which only has a front towing eye. Providing a fault has not developed in the manual gearbox or final drive, the vehicle may be towed on its four wheels. The same rule applies to models with automatic transmission but the car may only be towed in a forward direction at speeds up to 30 mph for a maximum of 30 miles. If these conditions cannot be met, it is possible to remove

both driveshafts,

withdraw

the CV

joints, then refit the CV joints only together with their rubber gaiters to the hubs. Alternatively, tow the vehicle with the front

Front towing eye

Rear towing eye

Routine Maintenance 0-1:

Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so

that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Ls

Tread Depth - visual check

Tread Depth - manual check

ae

Pree

ce

Sie

a

3 Tyre Pressure Check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Check the tyres pressures been used,

the tyre pressures regularly with cold. Do not adjust the tyre immediately after the vehicle has or an inaccurate setting will result.

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven

Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the d an , ch mu o to ex fl l wil re ty e th e us ca be , re ty ad ro e th on y tl ec rr co sit t no l wil d ea tr e th d an ip gr of ss lo a e us ca ll wi is Th e. ac rf su of er ng da e th n io nt me to t no , ar we excessive . up dil bu at he to e du e ur il fa re sudden ty Check and aqdjust pressures

Overinflation

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tyre tread wear patterns

) de si e on on r ea (w er mb ca l ee wh Incorrect Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering Reduce speed!

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with of er ng da the and e, rid r she har p, gri d ce du re shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

oe12 ROutINe Maintenance Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication has been greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required

the items either no longer exist, or will last forever. This is certainly not the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examination as comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at an early stage before they develop into major expensive repairs.

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly - whichever comes first |_| Check the level of the engine oil and top up if necessary (photos) |_] Check the coolant level and top up if necessary (photo) __] Check the level of electrolyte in the battery and top up if necessary (photo)

|_| Check the tyre pressures (photo) |_| Visually examine the tyres for wear and damage

|_| Check that all the lights work

|_|] Clean the headlamps Check the windscreen/tailgate washer fluid levels and top up if necessary (photo), adding a screen wash Check the level of fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir - if topping-up is required, check for leaks (photo)

Every 5000 miles (8000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes first Note: Frequent oil and filter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the oil at the mileage specified here, or at least twice a year if the mileage covered is less.

|_| Change engine oil (photo) | | Renew oil filter

Removing the engine oil level dipstick (CIS engine shown)

Every 10 000 miles (16 000 km) or —

_ t s r i f s e m o c r e v e h c i h w s 12 month

| — y ar ss ce ne if st ju ad d an ay pl ch ut cl k (| Chec ae 5 — th ng re st ze ee fr ti an k ec Ch (_]

te Ri e a s ek ad wi if st ju ad d an (_] Check valve clearances ic snl Mie (6 ls e: ey at , ar we r fo ts el eb iv dr all e in am Ex Ez tension

ko

Sanaa

wrt Renew spark plugs Renew contact breaker points (where applicable) timing on ti ni ig k ec Ch JWI Check idle speed and CO content Inspect air filter element and renew if necessary _ R Reset air cleaner intake (where applicable) rol cont on ssi emi of rity secu and ion dit con ck Che Bae equipment and hoses (where applicable) Examine engine for oil, water and fuel leaks Check the power steering fluid and top up to theFull Hot or Full Cold mark*on the dipstick (where applicable) Examine the exhaust system for leaks Examine the gearbox and final drive for oil leaks, top up as necessary Examine the driveshaft CV joint boots for leakage and damage Examine the automatic transmission and final drive for oil leaks. Add automatic transmission fluid and/or gear oil of the specified type, as necessary Check brake pressure regulator (as applicable) LI Examine brake lines and hoses for leaks and damage Check front and rear brake linings for wear Adjust rear brakes (as applicable) Adjust handbrake (as applicable) Check tie-rod ends for wear |_| Check steering balljoints and rubber boots for wear Check steering gear bellows for damage and leakage Lubricate bonnet lock and door check straps Examine underbody protection for damage Check headlights and adjust beam if necessary Road test car

Oil dipstick level marking. Quantity required to raise level from low to high mark is approximately 1 litre (1.8 Imp pints)

Topping up the engine oil

Routine Maintenance o-13

aeRO

Oe

=

Topping up the coolant

Checking the windscreen washer fluid

Topping up brake fluid level

Engine oil drain plug location

level

Every 20 000 miles (82 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes first [) Renew the fuel filter(s)

[_] Renew the air filter element |_|] Renew the coolant |_| Renew the emission control system catalytic converter (where applicable) |_| Renew the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) filter |_| Renew the emission control AIS air filter (where applicable)

|_| Renew the emission control EEC charcoal canister (where applicable) |_| Renew the emission control OXS oxygen sensor (where applicable) |_| Renew the automatic transmission fluid and clean the oil pan and strainer (where applicable) Renew the brake fluid and check the brakes for operation Check the brake pressure regulator (if fitted)

oei4 Routine Maintenance

Underbonnet view of a Golf GL (air cleaner removed) Vehicle identification plate Alternator Fuel filter Carburettor vacuum reservoir

Engine oil OAROM™s

filler cap

6

Carburettor

7 8 9 10

Ignition coil Brake fluid reservoir filler cap Windscreen washer reservoir Battery

11 12 13 14 15

Radiator filler cap Clutch cable adjuster Distributor Fuel purge reservoir Fuel pump

Routine Maintenance o«15

Underbonnet view of a Scirocco GLi

1 Alternator 2 Thermo-time switch 3 Engine oil filler cap 4 Auxiliary air valve

5 Throttle valve housing 6 Brake fluid reservoir filler cap 7 Fuel distributor 8 Fuel filter

9 10 11 12

Battery Radiator filler cap Airflow sensor Ignition distributor

s d i u l F d n a s t n a c i r oei¢ Lub

3 Component or system

Lubricant type/specification

Duckhams recommendation

1 Engine

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE

15W/50 or 20W/50, to AP! SG/CD

Duckhams QXR, QS, Hypergrade Plus or Hypergrade

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 or 80W/90

Duckhams Hypoid 80W/90

3 Automatic transmission

Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

4 Automatic transmission final drive

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 90

Duckhams Hypoid 80W/90S

5 Braking system

Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 3 or 4

Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid

6 Power steering reservoir

Dexron type ATF

Duckhams Uni-Matic

2 Manual gearbox

and final drive

Choosing your engine oil Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The higher the engine’s performance, the greater the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as

transferring the heat to the engine cooling system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.

well as optimise power and economy. Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest

¢ Cleaning the inner engine

technical standards, meeting and exceeding the demands of all modern engines.

Oil washes away combustion by-products (mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders, transporting them to the oil filter, and holding

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS e Beating friction Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special additives, forms a molecular barrier between moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat build-up.

* Cooling hot spots Oil cools parts coolant cannot chamber and may exceed

that the engine’s water-based reach, bathing the combustion pistons, where temperatures 1000°C. The oil assists in

the are oils and

smallest particles in suspension until they flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams undergo extensive tests in the laboratory, on the road. Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Engine oil types Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils, generally suited to older engines and cars not used in harsh conditions. Duckhams Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well suited for use in most popular family cars.

Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are specially formulated for Diesel engines, including turbocharged models and 4x4s. Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at

a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS, for use in ultra-high performance engines. Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance engine protection, but at less cost than full synthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice for hot hatches and hard-driven cars. For help with technical queries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils

on 0187 290 8207

DUCKHAMS

Chapter 1 Engine For modifications and information applicable to later models, see Chapter 12 Supplement

Contents Priculary GOMpPONnents'= refitting:

Ancillary components Crankcase ventilation Crankshaft and main Crankshaft, camshaft

sc .ccceew es ween dada ae wae we'e’s 25

- removal ..........ce .. ce.ee 0ee cee ces 8 system - description .............00000- 12, bearings - examination and renovation ..... 14 and intermediate shaft oil seals -

renewal (engine in ican eaaeb

tee.

ook

wears BRT

SR OS. Fo 20°

Engine and gearbox/transmission assembly - removal and

FefittiNg wiserew ey cone ee usps Mee ey fou ot ees, ei 5 Engine:dismantling:= generale: ou. cee oe ase 6 Ree eee if Engine reassembly = general 1... sa. o ++» Aan see ene 21 Examination and renovation - general ..............00e-00005 13 Faultfinding= engines.

..+-cn. «er

eee See end of Chapter

Crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and intermediate shaft Flywheel/driveplate - examination and renovation .............. 19 HESLILRHClee evelcM MMR PO, RUMI cro Sksrcraoste Sra Gie-evev eraerd ersiwi'a a:ciocerwiiare » 22; (Generalidescription: aici. ms ws + Aorearn cise «atte ete Me ene 1 Crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and intermediate shaft Intermediate shaft - examination and renovation .............. 18 ROMMOVGIME NEGROES aneychessnene chMeters ees we eee LAT, She) aL 10 Major operations only possible after removal of the engine from Cylinder block and crankcase - examination and renovation ..... 15 the: Calan .chisk hen bene sane so ee. ee me Mes 3 Cylinder head - adjustment of valve clearances ................ 23 Major operations possible with the engine in the car ............ 2 ON ICG CAC INOTICLINICH tapsborstn ccereherssein cococosisogvesnes smuensutan aan aes Z2ameviethodiofiengine removallmcnmrsmse tearm iene sets oie eae 4 Cylinder head - removal and overhaul ........ 0.. 00 .eu .eu .ee Sa Engine - adjustment after major overhaul ................0005 26 Engine and gearbox/transmission - separating and refitting ...... 6

Oillfiltentarenewallt sawters «. ractserarecacre «ste h clt eknre e me ee te te ns . Oil pump - examination and renovation ..................-0-. Pistons and connecting rods - examination and renovation ......

Degrees of difficulty

7

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

| Fairly easy, suitable S&S | for beginner with some experience

N

aS

~

N

Fairly difficult, suitable for competent SN DIY mechanic

x

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

&

Very difficult, SN suitable for expert DIY or professional

xs

Specifications General Ea IMESBEY LG meee eerenter felnice a PattaPa shina) o\/05e/eyei'aveile “b's i's"alesterte = brim PIII ICHPOLCIONMEE see as feels siniene eo ete sim Ries wlwilefee ole ein’ lae\'s ote ene Bante Bore: a ROLE MR arts en Pea a (CT) OLDs serssureyr eben OR CROCALCLENON te acy hh TelostaifeMofotufot ‘b'stoi Uei'n'a lp pieUeoley'e.'> S'S ee ty ee Cometic ec SCPC TN rete, & fee tate ah iit. foslaie Melero eB bles Ware b% ESS COMP WANS OLO ets 9s cet oOo ICLCHE ORC Ope: OEE CIARC ne RORaCe Rr aa ee eae Stroke eT eR TANS YG, ~2 0 chet Sect Sica an CrOIOh ECAR ACAD CaO RIO a ec ORCC es eS Bahn c Cacnd Once ae oONCCENC ckCES TEPC? wins son Alot hae diate a ARO ote ee Pree S 1s Coleen ee toe TIEES ee nea re Ck eC RO CE ca 8 rey 9-8 d) pee cacy eS T PEC. Compression ratios: s ne te . e . set . tee 1 . ces 1 . 2 GH) e cod ine eng t cep 1457 cc (ex

Four in-line, water cooled, overhead camshaft 1-3-4-2 79.5 mm (3.130 in) 76.5 mm (3.012 in)

79.5 mm (3.130 in) 79.5 mm (3.130 in) 73.4 80.0 80.0 86.4

mm mm mm mm

(2.89 (3.15 (3.15 (3.40

in) in) in) in)

8.2 to 1

e «yal ewat leli owal . rai n cai ata «St + eus slal « s (ed en. eri kg ) HA OG OG te Gi On WAS ACG

7.0 to 1

es ee ee ++ .-. .. .. .. .. ). FD and FB s de co ine eng t cep (ex 1471 cc ne eno enn cer ina v uan 6s s. mi Na ) ED GI AN EB TATMUCCONGINGCOGOS ce . ce e e . ee . . . . . . . ) FV’ d an EG s de co 1588 cc (except engine s ano te wai ahd sie owl e ini aic oe a loi os e der r tce ere Hei ) EG HOSSIGCOM ONGOING COGS nt ale eus beit elio v,eh le sra es ie scei «a tn cho sce dai sie sas cei Wua ) EV 1 SSSICCHONGIMELCOGS e tar T ME sla Via a act ton Cax ). ius es Wif ac ter nuc iae a oi cyl a EMT WA SIC OME

8.2 9.7 8.2 9.5 7.0 8.2

to to to to to to

1 1 1 1 1 1

Crankshaft e e e . e . ee . e . ee e . se . . . . . . d) ar nd ta (S Main journal diameter s ne ta ee e enc e ee cee i st ee se es .. 0. ... Main journal undersizes s n e e t eee eee e eee . .. 66 .. .. .. d) ar nd ta (s Crankpin diameter ie en we e eee te re e ee cet 6 . 2 « Crankpin UNGEFSIZES e ee s see e 02 2. 06 . .. .. .. ) um im ax (m e Main bearing running clearanc e nak tla e Gy t ea s er et st ci ea s cy ak uee tee etb r-Q ate «+ EMmafloatimaxiinmnUim)) cusses

54.0 mm (2.126 in) 53.75, 53.50 53.25 mm (2.116, 2.106, 2.096 in) 46.00 mm (1.811 in) in) 81 1.7 91, 1.7 , 801 (1. mm 5 .2 45 0, .5 45 45.75, 0.17 mm (0.006 in) 0.37 mm (0.015 in)

11 17 16

1e2 Engine Pane

re

ee

ee

eee

Connecting rods ns + ee -0 ere 06 ess .-. .. .. .. um) xim (ma nce ara cle g nin Big-end run Srrehileewul(eedaini len) oo Gites cheno oh aoa eens Mecoinc mo omuce bcs ao

0.12 mm (0.005 in) 0.37 mm (0.015 in)

Pistons eee n -0 .0 eee see Piston clearance in bore (maximum) ......-. Piston diameter (standard) - except 1471 cc: HONING’ GrOUD AM nae tat + ee Meet ies ici Senet sistege ir ce @ ne ER oe ey cutlets. «seu cudyseenton ve a HONING GrOUD) Ba ieace ars ec ee Rr eRe nee chen ge sce aie Wenig ahedofe cars te cc scene Honing Group Grae Piston diameter (standard) - 1471 cc: FAOMHING GMOUP IGS le rebee eaerater estes hed artes te felfeltefea factatoze tice ari eter ae ne cance ea tamtcorhe otawkatad Honing Groupi652

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications Byetem typ@iee:

«od

Maldso eee

. . ae

es

Thermo-syphon, assisted by belt driven pump, pressurised front mounted radiator, and electric cooling fan

Pressure cap release pressure vec ban ce.ote c..iciae . canted wk models-with part numbersuffix:A,.

0.9 to 1.15 bar (13 to 16.7 Ibf/in2)

UK models with part number suffix B and C and all Non Amen CAliIMOCOIS Beir anya RAMAN «« pyeicie eine Zou) 5 aiourye ays

= 1.2 to 1.35 bar (17.4 to 19.6 Ibf/in2)

Thermostat Opening temperature: iene. eae oi

Clockwise 1-3-4-2 Camshaft sprocket end

Coil Primary resistance: Contact breaker system Arabs StONZECESY SGM UI IMOGGIS ve. occ’. » tov elels a = sasterma i aes Transistorized system, North American models .............+..5 Secondary resistance: Contact breaker system Nransistorized System, WK MOdeIS 2... os « vlad alot alelastele ole mils wie Transistorized system, North American models ..............+..

Contact breaker points TMEIFEUICHES citlters ye chalUte ce aot Pak Cc Equivalent gap (approx)

Oh

gAA

ce

RRC

C

ce

1.7 to 2.1 ohms 0.55 to 0.75 ohms 0.52 to 0.76 ohms 7000 to 12000 ohms 2500 to 3500 ohms 2400 to 3500 ohms

44° to 50° (50 to 56%) 0.016 in (0.4 mm)

Ignition timing (static or idle) t en tm ar mp co ine eng in el lab on ati orm Inf l tro Con on Note: for North American models refer to Emissi hose um Vacu Engine Off FK FH, FB. ED) On JB*T TCI*, with FP, FT, FR, FV, GH Off GH without TCI*, JB*TT On EG (fuel injection) *DIS connector removed and terminals connected together +Distributor with double vacuum unit +t Distributor with single vacuum unit

HT leads Type (all models)

Champion LS 07, boxed set

Setting

7.5 + 1° BTDC TDC = 1° 9+BTDC TDC + 1°

4e2 Ignition system SS

Spark plug types** UK 1.5 litre models: -+.+ -+ -.. .. .. .. .. D dF an FB FK, FH, , GH Engine codes JB, UK 1.6 litre models: tae t c e l e s < o. ci e et si s Riva : and Enginercodes FPi e ew len= tete obs ets efer = ) as. se leligwe.) . and EV ; EM FN; es od Engine’c ite ene liev 1+ se as a ist vel kete ccre ts ke ter .sc osi . EGer de. Engine'co North American 1.5 litre models: e e t ar n a e ol e = e i cat r re a n olt s m s a X P : and R EM EG GV iE es od ic ne gi En North American 1.6 litre models: s ee ee ee .+ +. -. .. .. .. .. ) ter ver con tic aly cat th (wi FN de Engine co -+4 ++ .. .. ... .. .. ) ter ver con tic aly cat ut tho (wi FN de co ine Eng . ) r etegae al u can e t c e s o i e onc 3 er in dieiameer an EE si de co ine Eng = fel ) ola s eel © ens etet egct : aie e. is sa la) tom ali tu@ eep (ex Edi ’ ine Eng tee eauee +s a. 2,6. -uities Engine code, EJ) (Caltfomia)ie North American 1.7 litre models: 500 0. -. -. .. .. .. .. .. .. a) rni ifo Cal ept exc SA (U EN de co ine Eng Engineicode, EN\(Galifornia)| sritans admire Rarraintean use). egeleenese s h e t e t e tats eine e e eaet e a> t l uot vie e e)el n G)ef a a l ss. > iwec ca)a Gana ENi( de co ine Eng

Champion N9YCC or Champion N9YC Champion N7YCC or Champion N7YC Champion N7YCC or Champion N7YC Champion N6YCC or Champion N6YC Champion N9YC or Champion 2415

Champion Champion Champion Champion Champion

N9YC N9YC N9YC N9YC 2415

or or or or

Champion Champion Champion Champion

2415 2415 2415 2415

Champion N9YC or Champion 2415 Champion 2415 Champion N9YC

Spark plug electrode gap** emiunes des ece UKimodelsiNOViGCaNimiGG. NGY CC) Sones .. con Ukimodelsi(NOViGs NZY GANGYG) Wo Stet eres Het cs oe se ene wr eents terata e sita oratil North-American models rtseaec-n cearcrararacerar ransiteeaneranara *Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended

0.75 to 0.85 mm (0.029 to 0.033 in) 0.6 to 0.7 mm (0.024 to 0.028 in) 0.6 to 0.8 mm (0.024 to 0.032 in) by Champion Spark Plug. Where alternative

types are used, refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Torque wrench settings

Ibf ft

a MEERere arone ea SAK IUGS Mem tere eects = tem lcn.c urine cetee ome mre cle teen. outers Histributonclamp bolt Aitaes Let Ae cgeecle ... SR later sarate 6 4 Ae5 rete s-erece erties See earn teres aad Coil\Clanp'SChOW

15 11 6

Clamp

—-

—. To contact pin - battery negative terminal

Ignition coil

1

General description

DIS control unit Terminal 1 (-)

The ignition system may be of the conventional contact breaker type, or the electronic transistorized type. Both types of Terminal 4 Retainer

Terminal 15 (+) -

Heat sink

Ignition lead

ners Wa Rotor arm '—-

Control unit for transistorized ignition

~ Distributor

cap

vs)

tts. \ -@

=.

Spark plug connector

\

|

=

\

=

Carbon brush with spring

To control unit for Hall TCI system

5

—-

Spark plug ——~—~!

>

;

da) Vacuum unit

Plug connector

— Hall generator

a:

*

=

Guide —

.

Distributor

—— —-

Clamp

Fig. 4.1 Transistorized ignition components (Sec 1)

system comprise a battery, coil, distributor and spark plugs; the distributor is driven by a skew gear in mesh with the intermediate shaft of the engine. To enable the engine to run correctly, it is necessary for an electrical spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at exactly the right moment in relation to engine speed and load. The ignition system is based on feeding low tension voltage from the battery to the coil, where it is converted to high tension voltage. The high tension voltage is powerful enough to jump the spark plug gap in the cylinders many times a second under high compression, providing that the system is in good condition. With the contact breaker type, the ignition system is divided into two circuits, the low tension circuit and the high tension circuit. The low tension (sometimes known as the primary) circuit consists of the battery, lead to

the ignition switch, lead from the ignition switch to the low tension or primary coil windings (terminal +) and the lead from the low tension coil windings (coil terminal - ) to the contact breaker points and condenser in the distributor. The high tension circuit consists of the high tension or secondary coil

Ignition system 4¢3

)!

a.

1.0 Distributor rotor arm incorporating a centrifugal cut-out

2.2 Distributor cap location (Scirocco model)

windings, the heavy ignition lead from the coil to the distributor cap. the rotor arm and the spark plug leads and spark plugs.

spark occurs at just the right instant for the particular load at the prevailing engine speed. The ignition advance is controlled both mechanically and by a vacuum-operated system. The mechanical governor mechanism comprises two weights which move out from the distributor shaft as the engine speed rises due to centrifugal force. As they move outwards they rotate the cam relative to the distributor shaft, and so advance the spark. The weights are held in position by two light springs and it is the tension of the springs which is largely responsible for correct spark advancement.

The

system

manner.

functions

in the following

Low tension voltage is changed

in

the coil into high tension voltage by the opening and closing of the contact breaker points in the low tension circuit. High tension voltage is then fed via the carbon brush in the centre of the distributor cap to the rotor arm of the distributor, and each time it comes in line with one of the four metal segments in the cap, which are connected to the spark plug leads, the opening and closing of the contact breaker points causes the high tension voltage to build up, jump the gap from the rotor arm to the appropriate metal segment, and so via the spark plug lead to the spark plug, where it finally jumps the spark plug gap before going to earth. The transistorized ignition system functions in a similar manner but an electronic sender and points the contact unit replaces condenser in the distributor, and a remotely mounted electronic switch unit controls the coil primary circuit. On some models the system incorporates a digital idle stabilizer (DIS) which automatically advances the ignition timing during idling when the engine experiences additional loads, for example electrical certain’ on switching when components.

The .retarded

ignition

timing

automatically,

is

advanced

to ensure

gap with a feeler gauge

and

that the

The vacuum control consists of a diaphragm, one side of which is connected

via a small bore tube to the carburettor, and the other side to the contact breaker plate. Depression in the inlet manifold and carburettor, which varies with engine speed and throttle opening, causes the diaphragm to move,

so moving the contact breaker plate,

gc

4

2.3 Distributor rotor arm and dust cover

2

Contact breaker points checking and adjustment

WHEL

1 The manufacturers do not specify a service interval for checking the contact breaker points, however the following information is given

for use

in the

event

of breakdown,

starting difficulties or power loss. 2 Prise the two clips from the distributor cap (photo). Where an interference screen is fitted, disconnect the earth cable and low tension leads. Remove the cap from the distributor. 3 Pull off the rotor arm and remove the dust cover (photo). 4 Prise open the contact points and examine the condition of their faces. If they are blackened

or

pitted,

remove

them

as

described in Section 3 and dress them using emery tape or a grindstone. If they are worn excessively, renew them. 5 To adjust the contact points accurately a

and advancing or retarding the spark. A fine degree of control is achieved by a spring in the vacuum assembly. The contact breaker circuit on some models incorporates a ballast resistor or resistive wire which is in circuit all the time that the engine is running. When the starter motor is operated, to provide is bypassed the resistance increased voltage at the spark plugs. On fuel injection models, the distributor rotor arm incorporates a centrifugal cut-out which effectively governs the engine to a maximum speed of approximately 7000 rpm (photo).

initial setting first turn the engine until the heel of the moving contact is on the high point of the one of the cam lobes. Using a feeler blade, check that the gap between the two points is as given in the Specifications (photo). If not, loosen the fixed contact retaining screw and use a screwdriver in the notch provided to reposition the contact (photo). Check the gap again after tightening the screw.

retaining screw

Fig. 4.2 Adjusting the contact breaker points gap (Sec 2)

dwell meter will be required, however for an

4e4 Ignition system 5 Unscrew the retaining screws and lift the complete contact breaker set from the distributor. Take care not to drop the screw.

5. Transistorized ignition

6 Wipe clean the contact breaker baseplate,

then fit the new contact points using a reversal of the removal procedure: adjust and lubricate the points as described in Section 2 and adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 11.

4 Condenser testing, removal and refitting 3.4 The contact breaker points showing the low tension lead

6 Smear a little multi-purpose grease on the cam and apply a small amount of grease to the moving contact pivot. Apply one or two drops of engine oil to the felt in the cam

recess. 7 Connect a dwell meter to the ignition circuit and if possible check the dwell angle while spinning the engine on the starter (refer to the meter maker’s instructions). If it is not within the specified limits decrease the points gap to increase the dwell angle, or increase the points gap to decrease the dwell angle. 8 Refit the dust cover, rotor arm, distributor cap and interference screen if fitted together with the low tension leads, then check the dwell angle with the engine running (if possible). 9 Check and if necessary adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 11.

3

Contact breaker points renewal

HH

1 The contact breaker points should be renewed at the specified intervals (see Routine Maintenance). 2 Prise the two clips from the distributor cap. Where an interference screen is fitted, disconnect the earth cable and low tension leads. Remove the cap from the distributor. 3 Pull off the rotor arm and remove the dust cover. 4 Disconnect the low tension lead from the

connector block (photo).

a

\

1 The condenser is fitted in parallel with the contact points. Its purpose is to reduce arcing between the points and also to accelerate the collapse of the coil low tension magnetic field. A faulty (short-circuited) condenser can cause the complete failure of the ignition system, as the points will be prevented from interrupting the low tension circuit. An open-circuited condenser will cause misfiring or starting difficulties, and rapid burning of the points. 2 To test the condenser, remove the distributor cap and rotate the engine until the contact points are closed. Switch on the ignition and separate the points with a screwdriver. If this is accomplished by a strong blue flash, the condenser is faulty (a weak spark is normal). 3 A further test can be made for shortcircuiting by removing the condenser and using a test lamp, battery and leads connected to the condenser supply terminal and body. If the test lamp lights, the condenser is faulty. 4 The simplest test is to substitute a new unit and check whether the fault persists. 5 To remove the condenser, remove the distributor as described in Section 9 and clamp it lighty in a vice. 6 Remove the cap, interference screen (if

fitted), rotor arm and dust cover. 7 Disconnect the low tension lead from the connector block. 8 Remove the retaining screw and withdraw the condenser and connector block from the distributor. 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

4 On models equipped with transistorized be must precautions certain ignition, observed in order to prevent damage to the semi-conductor components and in order to prevent personal injury. 2 Before disconnecting wires from the system make sure that the ignition is switched off. 3 When turning the engine at starter speed without starting, the HT lead must be pulled from the centre of the distributor cap and kept earthed to a suitable part of the engine or bodywork. 4 Disconnect both battery leads before carrying out electric welding on any part of the

Car. 5 If the system develops a fault and it is necessary to tow the car with the ignition key switched on, the wiring must be disconnected from the TCI-h switch unit. 6 Do not under any circumstances connect a condenser to the coil terminals. 7 Take care to avoid receiving electric shocks from the HT system.

6

Transistorized ignition switch unit - testing

Wi

1 With the ignition switched off, pull the connectors from the digital idle stabilizer (DIS) unit mounted on the scuttle panel and join the two connectors together. 2 Disconnect the multi-plug from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 4 and 2 as shown in Fig. 4.4. 3 Switch on the ignition and check that battery voltage, or slightly less, is available. If not, there is an open-circuit in the supply wires. 4 Switch off the ignition and reconnect the multi-plug to the switch unit. 5 Pull the multi-plug from the Hall sender on the side of the distributor, then connect a

a

Fig. 4.3 Joining the connectors (arrowed) from the digital idle stabilizer (Sec 6)

Fig. 4.4 Voltmeter connection when testing the transistorized ignition switch unit (Sec 6)

Fig. 4.5 Voltmeter connection when testing at the transistorized ignition distributor multi-plug (Sec 6)

Ignition system 4¢5 Seema e nn ee e voltmeter across the low tension terminals on the coil. 6 Switch on the ignition and check that there is initially 2 volts, dropping to zero after 1 to 2 seconds. If this is not the case, renew the switch unit and coil. 7 Using a length of wire, earth the centre terminal of the distributor multiplug briefly; the voltage should rise to between 5 and 6 volts. If not, there is an open-circuit or the switch unit is faulty. 8 Switch off the ignition and connect the voltmeter across the outer terminals of the distributor multi-plug. 9 Switch on the ignition and check that 5 volts is registered on the voltmeter. 10 Ifa fault still exists renew the switch unit. 11 Switch off the ignition, remove the voltmeter, and reconnect the distributor multiplug and DIS connectors.

7 Transistorized ignition Hall sender - testing

|

SS

NS

~

1 Check that the ignition system wiring and plugs are fitted correctly. 2 With the ignition switched off, pull the connectors from the digital idle stabilizer (DIS) unit and join the two connectors together. 3 Pull the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and earth the lead to a suitable part of the engine or bodywork.

Test lamp method 4 Connect a test lamp and leads across the low tension terminals on the coil. 5 Spin the engine on the starter for 5 seconds and check that the test lamp flickers on and off. If not, the Hall sender is faulty and the distributor should be renewed.

Voltmeter method 6 Pull back the rubber boot from the switch unit and connect a voltmeter between terminals 6 and 3 as shown in Fig. 4.6. 7 Switch on the ignition and turn the engine

by hand in its normal direction of rotation. The voltage should alternate from between O and 0.7 volts to between 1.8 and battery voltage. If

not, the Hall sender is faulty distributor should be renewed.

and

the

All methods 8 Reconnect the DIS connectors.

8 Transistorized ignition Dis

EN

unit - testing

wwe~

hi

1 Check that the connectors and wiring are fitted correctly to the digital idle stabilizer

(DIS) unit. 2 Connect a stroboscopic timing light and tachometer to the engine in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 3 Start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature. 4 Accelerate the engine briefly, then allow it to idle and note the ignition timing (refer to Section 11 if necessary). 5 Switch on all the electrical components and

lights. 6 Check that when the engine speed drops below 940 rpm, the ignition timing advances; if not, renew the DIS unit. If the engine speed does not drop with the additional electric load, have an assistant engage top gear and

very slowly engage the clutch (make sure that the handbrake is firmly wheels chocked).

applied

and

the

of the rotor arm, and also mark the distributor body and cylinder block in relation to each other. 7 Disconnect the low tension lead or multiplug (as applicable) from the distributor. Pull the vacuum hose(s) from the capsule. 8 Unscrew the clamp bolt and withdraw the clamp followed by the distributor from the cylinder block. Note by how much the rotor turns clockwise. Remove the distributor body sealing washer and fit a new one on refitting. 9 To refit the distributor first check that the oil pump lug (visible through the distributor aperture) is set parallel to the crankshaft (Fig. 4.7). Check that the TDC ‘O’ mark is still aligned. 10 Set the rotor arm to the position noted in paragraph 8, align the distributor body and cylinder block marks and insert the distributor. As the gears mesh, the rotor will turn anti-clockwise and point to the previously made mark. 11 Refit the clamp and tighten the bolt. Reconnect the vacuum hose(s), and low tension lead or multi-plug (as applicable). 12 Refit the TDC sensor or blanking plug, and the distributor cap, then reconnect the

battery negative terminal. 13 Check and if necessary adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 11.

10 Distributor - overhaul

9

x NS

Distributor removal and refitting

»

1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2 Unclip and remove the distributor cap, noting where No 1 spark plug lead enters the cap in relation to the distributor body. 3 Turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the rotor arm points to the No 1 spark plug lead position. 4 Unscrew and remove the TDC sensor or blanking plug from the top of the gearbox or automatic transmission. 5 Turn the engine until the TDC ‘O’ mark is aligned with the timing pointer. 6 Mark the distributor body in line with the tip

VY 1 Remove the distributor as described in Section 9. 2 On the conventional ignition system remove the contact breaker points as described in Section 3, and the condenser as described in Section 4. 3 To remove the vacuum capsule unscrew the

retaining

screws,

g in st te n e h w n o i t c e n n o c Fig. 4.6 Voltmeter er nd se ll Ha on ti ni ig ed iz or st the transi (Sec 7)

Fig. 4.7 Oil pump lug position prior to fitting distributor (Sec 9)

remove

the

connector block if retained by one of the screws. 4 Extract the spring clip and detach the operating arm from inside the distributor body. Withdraw the capsule and the guide, where fitted. 5 |t is not possible to dismantle the distributor further, although it is possible to examine the centrifugal mechanism by prising the blanking plate from the body side. 6 Checking the contact breaker points and condenser is described in Sections 2 and 4. To check the vacuum

as

and

unit, suck on the outlet

tube(s) and make sure that the operating arm moves. Check the distributor driveshaft for lateral movement - if excessive the body assembly must be renewed. Wipe clean the distributor cap and make sure that the carbon brush moves freely against the tension of the spring. Clean the metal segments in the cap but do not scrape away any metal otherwise, the HT spark at the spark plugs will be reduced.

necessary.

Renew

all

components

as

46

Ignition system Resistance wire

Terminal 15(+)

H.T. lead

Screening

ring

Distributor

cap

Distributor

Spark plug connector

rotor

Oust cap

Vacuum

Terminal

1(-)

Terminal

4

unit

Spark plug Contact

breaker

Distributor

@s

Fig. 4.9 Ignition timing marks (Sec 11) i”,

7) A

rermin Condenser

Fig. 4.8 Conventional ignition distributor components (Sec 10)

7 Reassemble the distributor using a reversal of the dismantling procedure; on the conventional system adjust the contact breaker points as described in Section 2.

11 Ignition timing - adjustment

x

~ ~y wy

Note: Accurate ignition timing is only possible using a stroboscopic timing light, although on some models a TDC sender unit is located. On the top of the gearbox casing and may be used with a special VW tester to give an instant read-out. However, this tester will not normally be available to the home mechanic. For initial setting-up purposes of the conventional ignition system, the test bulb method can be used, but this must always be followed by the stroboscopic timing light method.

7.5° or 9° BTDC

A

the timing cover, unscrew and remove the TDC

sensor or blanking plug from the top of the gearbox or automatic transmission and align the timing mark (see Specifications) with the timing pointer (see Fig. 4.9) (photo). 4 Remove the distributor cap and check that the rotor arm is pointing toward the No 1 HT lead location in the cap. 5 Connect a 12 volt test bulb between the coil LT negative terminal and a suitable earthing point on the engine. 6 Loosen the distributor clamp retaining bolt. 7 Switch on the ignition. If the bulb is already lit, turn the distributor body slightly clockwise until the bulb goes out. 8 Turn the distributor body anti-clockwise until the bulb just lights up, indicating that the points have just opened. Tighten the clamp retaining bolt. 9 Switch off the ignition and remove the test bulb.

B 0° (ie TDC)

C 3° ATDC

10 Refit the distributor cap and No 1 spark plug and HT lead. Once the engine has been started, check the timing stroboscopically as follows and adjust as necessary.

Stroboscopic timing light method 11 On engines’ with a distributor incorporating a single vacuum capsule (ie vacuum advance only), disconnect and plug the vacuum hose. On all other engines do not disconnect the vacuum hoses. 12 If there are no timing marks on the timing cover and crankshaft pulley, unscrew and remove the TDC sensor or blanking plug from

the

top

of

the

gearbox

or

automatic

transmission. 13 Connect the timing light to the engine in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

14 Connect a tachometer to the engine in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. 15 Start the engine and run it at idling speed. 16 Point the timing light at the timing mark and pointer; they should appear to be stationary and aligned (photo). If adjustment is necessary (ie the marks are not aligned),

Test bulb method (conventional ignition system only) 1 Remove the No 1 spark plug (crankshaft pulley end) and place the thumb over the aperture.

2 Turn the engine in the normal running direction (clockwise viewed from. the crankshaft pulley end) until pressure is felt in No 1 cylinder, indicating that the piston is commencing its compression stroke. Use a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. or engage top gear and pull the car forwards. 3 Continue turning the engine until the line on

the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the pointer on the timing cover. If there are no marks on

11.3 Removing the timing blanking plug from the top of the gearbox

11.16 The timing marks (arrowed) on the crankshaft pulley and timing cover (Scirocco model)

Ignition system 4¢7 e rr ee e r e S

loosen the clamp retaining bolt and turn the distributor body anti-clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard the ignition timing. 17 Gradually increase the engine speed while still pointing the timing light at the timing

marks. The mark on the flywheel (or driveplate) or pulley should appear to move opposite to the direction of rotation, proving that the centrifugal weights are operating correctly. If not, the centrifugal mechanism is faulty and the distributor should be renewed. 18 Accurate checking of the vacuum advance (and retard where fitted) requires the use of a vacuum pump and gauge. However, providing that the diaphragm unit is serviceable, the vacuum hose(s) firmly fitted, and the internal mechanism not seized, the system should work correctly. 19 Switch off the engine, remove the timing light and tachometer, and refit the vacuum hose (where applicable).

12 Coil-

description and testing

X » RR

1 The coil is located on the bulkhead in the engine compartment, and it should be periodically wiped clean to prevent high tension voltage loss through possible arcing (photo). 2 To ensure the correct HT polarity at the spark plugs, the coil LT leads must always be connected correctly. On the conventional ignition system the LT lead from the distributor should be connected to the negative (-) terminal on the coil. Incorrect connections can cause bad starting, misfiring, and short spark plug life. 3 Complete testing of the coil requires special equipment, however if an ohmmeter is available, the primary and secondary winding resistances can be checked and compared with those given in the Specifications. During testing the LT and HT wires must be disconnected from the coil. To test the

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electrode slowly - a cold plug transfers it away quickly). 4 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is

primary winding, connect the ohmmeter between the two LT terminals - to test the secondary winding connect the ohmmeter between the negative (-) LT terminal and the HT terminal.

13 Spark plugs and HT leads general

.h

RS

SS

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine, and the suitable type is specified at the beginning of this chapter. If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 The condition of the spark plugs will also tell much about the overall condition of the engine. 3 If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture, or too hot a plug. (A hot plug transfers heat away from the

ap

e tr li 6 1. y rl ea on s se ho d an e lv va c i t a m u e n p o m r e h T 10 4. Fig. ) 14 ec (S on si is sm an tr c i t a m 55 kW engines with auto

indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 5 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 6 The spark plug gap is of considerable importance, as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The spark plug gap should be set to the figure given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 7 To set it, measure the gap with a feeler gauge, and then bend open, or close, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent as this may crack the insulation and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. 8 Always tighten the spark plugs to the specified torque. 9 Periodically the spark plug leads should be wiped clean and checked for security.

14 Thermo-pneumatic valve description and testing

EN » rN

1 Some carburettor engine models are equipped with a thermo-pneumatic valve which regulates the ignition vacuum advance during the warm-up period in order to improve cold driving performance. 2 On early 1.6 litre engines with automatic transmission the hoses are routed as shown in Figs. 4.10 and 4.11. With the engine cold, there is no vacuum

advance on the 55 kW engine,

and vacuum advance only above approximately 2000 rpm on the 63 kW engine. Full vacuum advance is available when the valve opens, ie at normal operating temperature.

) 14 ec (S on si is sm an tr c ti ma to au th wi s ne 63 kW engi

4e8 Ignition system it e rs me im d an it ve mo re e, lv va e th 4 To test e th to s se ho ch ta At . ed at he g in in water be ow bl to t mp te at en th s, rt pa et tl inlet and ou e th t ns ai ag it k ec ch d an e lv va through the following table: Engine type

Valve closed below

7.6 litre, 55 kW, 45°C (113°F) automatic

Valve open above

~61°C (141°F)

1.6 litre, 63 kW, manual or

Fig. 4.12 Thermo-pneumatic valve (1), check valve (2). and hoses (3) on early 1.6 litre 63 KW engines with manual gearbox (Sec 14)

3 On early 1.6 litre engines with manual gearbox and later 1.5 litre engines with system the transmission, automatic incorporates a check valve. During the warm-

Fig. 4.13 Thermo-pneumatic valve (1) and check valve (2) on 1.5 litre engines with automatic transmission (Sec 14) up period the check valve maintains vacuum

advance even after the throttle has been fully opened. With the valve open, the check valve is bypassed and ignition advance is normal.

52°C (125°F) automatic 7.5 litre, 51 kW, 30°C (86°F) automatic

68°C (154°F) 46°C (114°F)

5 To test the check valve (where fitted), remove it and blow through it: the valve must be open when blowing through the white port and closed when blowing through the black port. Always fit the check valve with the white connection toward the vacuum capsule.

Fault finding - ignition system By far the majority of breakdown and running troubles are caused by faults in the ignition system, either in the low tension or high tension circuit. There are two main symptoms indicating ignition fault. Either the engine will not start or fire or the engine is difficult to start and misfires. If it is a regular misfire, ie the engine is only running on two or three cylinders, the fault is almost sure to be in the secondary, or high tension circuit. If the misfiring is intermittent, the fault could be in either the high or low tension circuits. If the car stops suddenly or will not start at all it is likely that the fault is in the low tension circuit. Loss of power and overheating, apart from faulty carburation settings, are normally due to faults in the distributor or incorrect ignition timing.

Engine fails to start (conventional and transistorized systems) 1 If the engine fails to start and the car was running normally when it was last used, first check there is fuel in the petrol tank. If the engine turns over normally on the starter motor and the battery is evidently well charged, then the fault may be in either the high or low tension circuits. First check the HT circuit. If the battery is known to be fully charged, the ignition light comes on, and the starter motor fails to turn the engine, check

the tightness of the leads on the battery terminals and the security of the earth lead to its connection to the body. It is quite common for the leads to have worked loose, even if they look and feel secure. If one of the battery terminal posts gets very hot when trying to work the starter motor, this is a sure indication of a faulty connection to that terminal. 2 One of the most common reasons for bad starting is wet or damp spark plug leads and distributor. Remove the distributor cap. If

condensation is visible internally dry the cap with a rag and wipe over the leads. Refit the

cap. 3 If the engine on models fitted with conventional ignition still fails to start, check that current is reaching the plugs by disconnecting each plug lead in turn at the spark plug end. Hold the end of the cable with an insulated tool about 3/16 in (5 mm) away from the cylinder block, then spin the engine on the starter motor. 4 On engines with transistorized ignition remove each plug in turn and earth it to a suitable part of the engine with the HT cable connected. Spin the engine on the starter motor.

5 Sparking at the cables or plugs should be fairly strong, with a regular blue spark. If necessary remove the plugs for cleaning and regapping. The engine should now start.

Engine fails to start (conventional system only) continuation 6 If there is no spark at the plug leads, take off the HT lead from the centre of the distributor cap and hold it to the block as

before. Spin the engine on the starter once more. A rapid succession of blue sparks between the end of the lead and the block indicates that the coil is in order and that the distributor cap is cracked, the rotor arm faulty or the carbon brush in the top of the distributor cap is not making good contact with the rotor arm. 7 If there are no sparks from the end of the lead from the coil, check the connections at the coil end of the lead. If this is in order start checking the low tension circuit. Commence by cleaning and gapping the points (Section 2). 8 Use a 12 volt voltmeter, or a 12 volt bulb and two lengths of wire. With the ignition switch on and the points open test between

the low tension wire to the coil (it is marked - )

and earth. No reading indicates a break in the supply from the ignition switch. Check the connections at the switch to see if any are loose. Refit them and the engine should run. A reading shows a faulty coil or condenser or broken lead between the coil and the distributor. 9 Remove the condenser from the distributor body but leave the wiring connected. With the points open, test between the moving point and earth. If there now is a reading then the fault is in the condenser. Fit a new one and the fault is cleared. 10 With no reading from the moving point to earth, take a reading between earth and the negative (-) terminal of the coil. A reading here indicates a broken wire which must be renewed between the:coil and distributor. No reading confirms that the coil has failed and must be renewed. For these tests it is sufficient to separate the contact breaker points with a piece of paper. 11 If the engine starts when the starter motor is Operated, but stops as soon as the ignition key is returned to the normal running position the ballast resistor may have an open-circuit.

Connect a temporary lead between the coil positive (+) terminal and the battery positive (+) terminal. If the engine now runs correctly, renew the resistor. Note that the ballast resistor or resistive wire must not be permanently bypassed otherwise the coil will overheat and be damaged.

Engine misfires (conventional system only) 12 If the engine misfires regularly, run it at a fast idling speed. Pull off each of the plug Caps in turn and listen to the note of the engine. Hold the plug cap in a dry cloth or with a rubber-glove as additional protection against a shock from the HT supply.

Ignition system 4¢9 Ce

13 No difference in engine running will be noticed when the lead from the defective circuit is removed. Removing the lead from one of the good cylinders will accentuate the misfire. 14 Remove the plug lead from the end of the defective plug and hold it about 3/16 in (5 mm) away from the block. Restart the engine. If the sparking is fairly strong and regular, the fault must lie in the spark plug.

Engine misfires (conventional and transistorized systems) 15 The plug be cracked, away, giving jump. Worse

may be loose, the insulation may or the points may have burnt too wide a gap for the spark to still, one of the points may have

sss...

broken off. Either renew the plug, or clean it, reset the gap, and then test it. 16 Check the HT lead from the distributor to the plug. If the insulation is cracked or perished, renew the lead. Check the connections at the distributor cap. 17 Examine the distributor cap carefully for tracking. This can be recognised by a very thin black line running between two or more electrodes, or between an electrode and some other part of the distributor. These lines are paths which now conduct electricity across the cap, thus letting it run to earth. The only answer in this case is a new distributor cap. 18 Apart from the ignition timing being incorrect, other causes of misfiring have already been dealt with under the paragraphs

dealing with the failure of the engine to start. To recap, these are that:

(a) The coil may be faulty giving an intermittent misfire (b) There may be a damaged wire or loose connection in the low tension circuit (c) The condenser may be short-circuiting (where applicable) (d) There may be a mechanical fault in the distributor (broken driving spindle or contact breaker spring where applicable) 19 If the ignition timing is too far retarded it should be noted that the engine will tend to overheat, and there will be a quite noticeable

drop in power. If the engine is overheating and the power is down, and the ignition timing is correct, then the carburettor should be checked as it is likely that this is where the fault lies.

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Chapter 5 Clutch Contents Clutch Clutch Clutch Clutch

- adjustment - removal and refitting assembly - inspection cable - renewal

Easy, suitablefor novice with little experience _

oto. CgSERIO ES Serene ake eee ahs's afte fate Byars he 236)2 RRMA Stepeag ta Tet

2 Clutch pedal - removal and refitting ................-seeeeee. 4 5 Clutch release mechan -i res mom val and refitting .............. 7 6 Fault finding- clutch ...............Se .e.en .d.of Ch. ap. .. ter SMMCAONO JoC . ocA c. sa eC tensO L haS anG seR taI e O meO nd N anne

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Difficult, suitable for

eS Very difficult,

x |

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications BMULCERIVOOT 40s a ee Free play at clutch pedal

Single dry plate, non-fulcrum diaphragm spring pressure plate, cable actuation 15 to 25 mm (0.6 to 1.0 in)

...........

Overhaul data Clutch disc run-out (maximum) ............. Pressure plate inward taper (maximum) .......

0.3 mm (0.012 in) measured 2.5 mm (0.10 in) from outer edge 0.2 mm (0.008 in)

Torque wrench settings

Ibf ft 55 14 11

Pressure plate to crankshaft................ ohio RNC EA Tea ates a ah Flywheel to pressure plate ................. ene seeks oe Gearbox end cover plate (4-speed gearbox) ... dfn,5 SS cabs eR petiacalisten et er

Nm 75 20 15

1 General description

FLYWHEEL

FRICTION DISC

Unlike the clutch on most engines, the clutch pressure plate is bolted to the crankshaft flange and the flywheel, which is dish shaped, is bolted to the pressure plate with the friction disc being held between ‘them. This is in effect the reverse of the more conventional arrangement where the flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft flange and the clutch pressure plate bolted to the flywheel. The release mechanism consists of a metal disc, called the release plate, which is clamped in the centre of the pressure plate by

—— CLUTCH PUSH ROD

RETAINING RING

CRANKSHAFT

FLANGE

a= WZ| a oe

a retaining ring. In the centre of the release plate is a boss into which the clutch pushrod the h oug thr ses pas d hro pus The ed. fitt is is and t shaf t inpu x rbo gea the of tre cen the in d ate loc g rin bea ase rele a by actuated gearbox end housing. A single finger lever to t shaf the n whe g rin bea this on s sse pre of ion rat ope by ned tur is d ine spl is it ch whi the ct effe In l. peda ch clut the m fro the cable ch whi d, hro pus ch clut the hes pus clutch lever

Fig. 5.1 Cross-section of the clutch (Sec 1)

GEAR BOX CASING

5e2 Clutch in turn pushes the centre of the release plate

inwards towards the crankshaft. The outer edge of the release plate presses on the pressure plate fingers forcing them back towards the engine and removing the pressure plate friction face from the friction disc, thus disconnecting the drive. When the clutch pedal is released the pressure plate reasserts itself, clamping the friction disc firmly against the flywheel and restoring the

drive. As the friction linings on the disc wear, the pressure plate will gradually move closer to the flywheel

and

the cable

free play will

2.2a Clutch cable adjuster location on a Scirocco (airflow sensor removed)

decrease. Periodic adjustment must therefore be carried out as described in Section 2.

1 The clutch adjustment should be checked at the intervals given in Routine Maintenance. To do this, check the free play at the clutch pedal by measuring the distance it has to be moved in order to take up the slack in the cable. If the distance is not as given in the Specifications, adjust as follows. 2 Loosen the outer cable locknut at the gearbox bracket, then turn the serrated disc while holding the outer cable stationary until the pedal free play is correct (photos). 3 Fully depress the pedal several times and recheck the adjustment, then tighten the locknut. Lubricate the exposed part of the inner cable with a little multi-purpose

2.2b Clutch cable adjuster and locknut

Fig. 5.3 Clutch cable guide rubber washer (1), sealing lip (2), and selector shaft end cap (3) (Sec 3)

grease.

Sealing ring

Clutch cable

Shaft for brake and clutch pedals Retaining washer

0)

Grommet mA

)

Nut

3.1b View of clutch operating lever and cable connection from below

Adjusting disc

3

Clutch cable - renewal

KU

Guide sleeve Rubber washer

Gearbox

Release shaft

Attaching parts for clutch cable

Fig. 5.2 Clutch cable and pedal components - 4-speed gearbox outline shown (Sec 3)

1 Working in the engine compartment loosen the outer cable locknut at the gearbox bracket, then back off the serrated disc until the inner cable can be released from the — operating lever. To do this pull the clips from the lever and withdraw them from the inner cable (photos). 2 Withdraw the inner and outer cable from the gearbox bracket. 3 Working beneath the facia unhook the cable from the clutch pedal, then withdraw it through the grommet in the bulkhead. Note the sealing O-ring on the outer cable ferrule.

Clutch

5e3

5.1 Flywheel expanding peg location for

centring pressure plate

1 2 3 4

Fig. 5.4 Exploded view of the clutch components (Sec 5) Pressure plate assembly 5 Release plate (190 mm/ 7 Retaining ring (190 mm/ Packing plate 7.48 in diameter clutch) 7.48 in diameter clutch) Bolt 6 Retaining ring (200 mm/ 8 Friction disc Release plate (200 mm/ 8 in diameter clutch) 9 Pushrod 8 in diameter clutch) 70 Bolt

4 If necessary prise the guide sleeve from the rubber washer on the gearbox bracket, then remove the washer. 5 Check that the cable locating grommet and washer are secure in the bulkhead. 6 Fit the new cable using a reversal of the removal procedure. Check that the sealing ring is correctly located on the bulkhead end of the outer cable, and lightly lubricate the exposed parts of the inner cable with multipurpose grease. Make sure that the inner sealing lip of the rubber washer on the gearbox bracket is parallel to the end cap, otherwise the gearbox breather may become blocked with foreign matter. Finally adjust the cable as described in Section 2.

4

Clutch pedal removal and refitting

6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but lubricate the shaft with a little multi-purpose grease and adjust the cable as described in

Section 2.

5

Clutch removal and refitting

Whit

1 Remove the gearbox as described in Chapter 6. Clamp the flywheel to prevent it turning and remove the bolts holding the flywheel to the pressure plate in a diagonal fashion. Release each one half a turn at a time until they are all slack and then take them out. The flywheel and the friction disc may now be removed, but note which way round the disc is fitted and also mark the flywheel and pressure plate in relation to each other. On later models, centring pins are provided to

Fig. 5.5 Special VW tool for holding the pressure plate stationary while unscrewing or tightening the retaining bolts (Sec 5)

5.3a Removing the clutch release plate

5.3b Removing the clutch pressure plate

HUT

1 Loosen the outer cable locknut at the gearbox bracket, then turn the serrated disc and locknut anti-clockwise until the inner cable is slack. 2 Working beneath the facia, unhook the cable from the clutch pedal. 3 Prise the clip from the end of the pedal shaft. 4 Slide the pedal from the shaft. 5 Examine the shaft and pedal bush for wear and renew them if necessary. The bush is an be n ca d an l da pe e th in fit ce en interfer ft dri l ta me t sof a g in us led tal ins or removed sh flu are sh bu the of ds en e th t tha make sure with the ends of the pedal tube.

ensure that the TDC mark on the flywheel is positioned correctly (photo). 2 Examine the pressure plate surface. If it is clean and free from scoring there is no reason to remove it unless the friction disc shows signs of oil contamination. 3 If the plate surface is defective then it must be removed. Note exactly where the ends of the retaining ring are located (the ring must be refitted this way later), and prise the ring out with a screwdriver. The release plate may now be removed (photo). The pressure plate is held to the crankshaft flange by six bolts fitted using a thread locking compound. These will be difficult to remove as they were tightened to a high torque before the locking fluid set, so the plate must be held with a clamp similar to that shown in Fig. 5.5 (photo).

VALAe

5e4 Clutch

5.4 Tightening the clutch pressure plate retaining bolts

Oe

fae a

Fig. 5.6 Correct location of release plate retaining ring ends (arrowed) on the 190 mm diameter clutch (Sec 5)

Fig. 5.7 Correct location of release plate retaining ring ends (arrowed) on the 200 mm diameter clutch (Sec 5)

the centre of the clutch disc hub (Fig. 5.8). If you cannot borrow or hire tool VW 547 then we suggest you make up a tool as shown in Fig. 5.9. Alternatively centre the disc using vernier calipers (photo). Once the clutch disc is centred correctly, tighten the securing bolts in a diagonal sequence to the specified torque and check the centralisation again. 7 When refitting the transmission, put a smear of lithium-based grease on the end of the clutch pushrod at the release plate end.

across the friction surface and measure any bow or taper with feeler gauges. 4 The rivets which hold the spring fingers in position must be tight. If any of them are loose the pressure plate must be scrapped. Finally, the condition of the friction surface. Ridges or scoring indicate undue wear and unless they can be removed by light application of emery paper it would be better to renew the plate. 5 The flywheel friction surface must be similarly checked. 6 So far the inspection has been for normal wear. Two other types of damage may be encountered. The first is overheating due to clutch slip. In extreme cases the pressure plate and flywheel may have radial cracks. Such faults mean that they require renewal. The second problem is contamination by oil or grease. This will cause clutch slip but probably without the cracks. There will be shiny black patches on the friction disc which will have a glazed surface. There is no cure for this, a new friction disc is required. In addition it is imperative that the source of contamination be located and rectified. It will be either the crankshaft oil seal or the gearbox input shaft oil seal (or bothl). Examine them and renew them as necessary the procedures are given in Chapters 1 and 6. 7 Whilst the gearbox is removed, it is as well to check the release bearing for satisfactory condition - see Section 7.

2

Fig. 5.8 Using VW tool 547 to centre the clutch friction disc (Sec 5) 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal; use thread locking compound on the bolts securing the plate to the crankshaft flange if they have been removed, and tighten them to the specified torque (photo). Make sure that the retaining ring is correctly seated (Figs. 5.6 and 5.7). Take care that no oil or grease is allowed to get onto the pressure plate or friction surfaces. 5 When refitting the clutch disc make sure the greater projecting boss which incorporates the torsion springs is furthest from the engine, then fit the flywheel over the pressure plate. Fit the securing bolts and tighten them finger tight only. 6 The next operation is to centre the clutch disc. If this is not done accurately the gearbox mainshaft will not be able to locate in the splines of the clutch disc hub, and it will be impossible to fit the gearbox. The best centralising tool is VW 547 which fits in the flywheel and has a spigot which fits exactly in

6

Clutch assembly - inspection

WHY 1 The most probable part of the clutch to require attention is the friction disc. Normal wear will eventually reduce its thickness. The lining must stand proud of the rivets by not less than 0.6 mm (0.025 in). At this measurement the lining is at the end of its life and a new friction plate is needed. 2 The friction disc should be checked for runout if possible. Mount the disc between the centres of a lathe and measure the run-out at the specified dimension from the outer edge, then compare the result with the Specifications. However, this requires a dial gauge and a mandrel. If the clutch has not shown signs of dragging then this test may be passed over, but if it has we suggest that expert help be sought to test the run-out (Fig. 5.10). 3 Examine the pressure plate. There are three important things to check. Put a straight-edge

DOWEL TO FIT IN CLUTCH PLATE SPLINES

N

AW

WOODEN OR METAL DISC TO FIT IN FLYWHEEL RECESS

Fig. 5.9 Home-made tool for centralising the clutch friction disc (Sec 5)

oF

¥

5.6 Using vernier calipers to check the clutch disc centralisation

Fig. 5.10 Checking the friction disc for run-out (Sec 6)

Clutch

:

5e5

ieee

Fig. 5.11 Checking the taper of the pressure plate friction surface (Sec 6)

ee

7.2 Removing the gearbox end cover (4-speed models)

7.4 Extracting the clutch release lever location circlips (4-speed models)

7.5 Removing the clutch release arm and shaft (4-speed models)

7.6 Removing the clutch release bearing (4-speed models)

®

f7 Clutch release mechanism removal and refitting

Boe

x xs x

1 The clutch release mechanism is located in the gearbox end housing and is accessible after the removal of the end cover or plate (as applicable). 2 On 4-speed gearbox models, unbolt the end cover from the gearbox and remove the gasket (photo). 3 On 5-speed gearbox models, first support the engine/gearbox unit with a trolley jack, then remove the torque strut and rear gearbox mounting and lower the jack a few inches. Using a sharp instrument, pierce the endplate and lever it out from the gearbox. A new plate must be obtained. 4 On both 4 and 5-speed gearboxes the release lever is located on the shaft by one circlip (early models) or two circlips (later models). Extract the circlip(s) (photo). 5 With the clutch cable disconnected (see Section 3) withdraw the release arm and shaft from the gearbox and remove the lever and spring (photo). 6 Remove the release bearing (photo) and on 4-speed models only, extract the guide sleeve. Removal of the pushrod on the 4speed gearbox is not possible unless the unit is lowered. 7 Rotate the release bearing and check it for ‘wear and roughness; renew it if necessary. Check the shaft oil seal for wear or

] End plate

Circlips

Clutch lever

Return spring ~~

j es

Release bearing

deterioration, and if necessary prise it out and drive in a new seal squarely using a

suitable length of metal tubing. Fill the space between the seal lips with multi-purpose grease. 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Note that the release lever and shaft have a master spline, and when fitting the return spring

Gearbox housing

_

cover

Oil seal for release shaft

-

ensure that the bent ends bear against the casing with the centre part hooked over the

the to ket gas new a fit ays Alw er. lev e eas rel end cover on 4-speed models, and use a suitable length of metal tubing to drive the d pee 5-s on g sin hou the o int te pla end new models.

Fig. 5.12 Exploded view of the clutch release mechanism on the 5-speed gearbox (Sec 7)

5

5e6

Clutch

Fault finding - clutch Judder when taking up drive

Clutch slips

[_] Loose engine/gearbox mountings ] Friction linings worn or contaminated with oil _] Worn splines on gearbox input shaft or driven plate

LJ Incorrect cable adjustment CL Friction linings worn or contaminated with oil __] Faulty pressure plate assembly

Noise when depressing clutch pedal Clutch fails to disengage L] Incorrect cable adjustment _] Driven plate sticking on input shaft splines (may be due to rust if car off road for long period) Faulty pressure plate assembly

Worn release bearing [] Worn splines on gearbox input shaft or driven plate

Noise when releasing clutch pedal [_] Distorted driven plate Broken or weak driven plate cushion springs

6e1

Chapter 6 Manual gearbox and automatic transmission For modifications and information applicable to later models, see Chapter 12 Supplement

Contents Automatic transmission Automatic transmission Automatic transmission AUitOMatictransmission

- general description ................. - removal and refitting ................ - routine maintenance ................ -Stall test 2... 0... ...-ee aces vnyejegenest rsse

Automatic transmission final drive oil seals - renewal ........... Automatic transmission selector lever cable - adjustment ........

Automatic transmission throttle and pedal cables PACHUSEM ON Urpment CN tee chats Sin.) MEE cate

eee

6 8 7 9 10 a

a ee 12

Fault finding - manual gearbox and automatic transmission Manual gearbox - general description ...................00-. Manual gearbox - removal and refitting ...................... Manual gearbox overhaul - general .................0-0-0ee Manual gearbox gearchange lever and linkage removal! and iretitlings 2 e.. a. = © oc eee ae Manual gearbox gearshift linkage - adjustment ................

1 2 3

5 4

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little

\ | Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with

experience

some experience

< | Fairly difficult, EN suitable for competent SN EN

DIY mechanic

x~X

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

x LN

my

S

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY ~ or professional my

Specifications Manual gearbox ea OT

ea

tala te a dan»

RY

aie dttinen

Four or five forward speeds (all synchromesh) and reverse. Final drive integral with main gearbox

Ratios 4-speed version 1st ‘2nd:

All models up to September 1974 All models from October 1974 (except 1981 Rabbit) 1981 Rabbit 3rd: All models up to July 1976 All models from August 1976 (except 1981 Rabbit) 1981 Rabbit 4th: All models up to July 1980 ) bit Rab 1 198 t cep (ex 0 198 ust Aug m fro els mod All 1981 Rabbit Reverse Final drive: n wee bet red ctu ufa man o occ cir f/S Gol UK ept exc els mod All August 1976 and July 1979 6 197 ust Aug n wee bet red ctu ufa man els mod UK Golf/Scirocco and July 1979

3.45 : 1 (11/38)

1.95 : 1 (19/37) 1.94: 1 (18/35) 1.75 : 1 (20/35) 1.37 : 1 (27/37) 1.29 : 1 (28/36) 1.06 : 1 (31/33) 0.97 : 1 (32/31) 0.91 : 1 (33/30) 0.70 :1 (37/26) 3.17 : 1 (12/38) 3.89 :1 (19/74) 3.70: 1 (20/74)

6e2 Manual gearbox and automatic transmission e e e d er e Ee r R R e an b er nnn m men e rem Ratios (continued) 5-speed version REICR. Ste PIECE. saci cone woes dis) e ele curlers eyWohT CRA ISteeeerUR 2nd: All models except gearbox codes FM, FD andFK ............... Gearbox codes FM, FD, and FK .............:00ccersceeenens 3rd: All models except gearbox codes FM, FD andFK ...............

3.45 : 1 (11/38) 1.94 : 1 (18/35) 2.12: 1 (17/36)

1.29 : 1 (28/36)

ss cece aie) ve siete sie eneie a oni

1.44 : 1 (27/39)

All models up to July 1980 except gearbox code FM ............ All models from August 1980 except gearbox codes FM, FD, EEE Pee ea aon Gee Sea nao a)& ayaplio ee soliotenevetsel« pare eeaers oe EGA (evetieronceoesSlaMh AD: cliellaN ccoundoemonesdgannucedoodendas

0.97 : 1 (32/31)

Gearboxicodes FM AED Fandi Fees 4th:

0.91 : 1 (33/30) A. tort di (31/35)

5th: All models up to July 1980 except gearbox code FM ............ All models from August 1980 except gearbox codes FM, FD,

0.76 : 1 (58/44)

uaasuagayauan>naucaccnusasisesuianeas au cee Ce cdsacse ceiicoe oo sononcoanccnc CeeteocoppelEslaMh FDSeiella natal tacuniiyc che ileus eters adais nn ae aa a avis waleta aieta are ROVEISO mmr ars ntoecie es on state tae cera e wreseg cher eaicrecearaliteles Einalichivemermcenec

0.71 0.91 3.17 3.89

Oil type/specification

eee .. eee.. e .. cec ..............

:1 :1 :1 :1

(38/27) (34/31) (12/38) (19/74)

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80 or 80W/90

Oil capacities A=SPOCC GEAIDOX a ergs 5 Scie, cies 0 duinanbaaitar 3 toaurdoysysys jentieucpacse Meisieakeke D-SPOEC/GEArDOXK = a cgansncheart uvses aycutied caincmemedensusucns) space ons) Hayseed

1.5 litres; 1.6 US quarts; 2.6 Imp pints 2.0 litres; 2.1 US quarts: 3.5 Imp pints

Torque wrench settings

Ibf ft

Nm

4-speed Selector rod AGjuStIMENL? Gearbox to engine:

etere seyere Woe aa .c cere ee ete, euers 0 e synkecrdieiseove

11

15

Mi 25 OFS Seis cgcack cis ade cpeacount eanuitemons'scildbccunad assoucue meu ramen M10) bolts: airay aaceSE oi: Ae = ey atitetnces Me eles wie Shae oe oe ee BRCIICOMGIEDONS yaaa sieatacas tacts ono 2 RYE «Reais cueriekavouaiegn’ afaidlepe suenebeusnens CESING) SOS 55 SS FR Sh Are eee ho, SRNR SClOCtOMSMAWIOCKING SCOWhiMtes ce.s cies scmcavs se so ccf s.«atlas si REVElSeShlalUSCloW min acme: ctes GirimicisGiisa cs secs seere nse ae Reversing light switchers mteeccitcisi sesscccin eae esicicec se eee Oilffillen plug (Without magnet)lerre seles siecus mreies fesse eivivcone se acmasmee Drainplugi(withimagnet)P eae soos wine eeser wins ages Oilfiller'plug (fronvl974)\. merseten tac tet sist is sas etomlials «0,

55 33 14 18 14 14 22 18 18 14

75 45 15 25 20 20 30 25 25 20

2. 4.23 sess adie cs a5 oe me tS Te oe nee Sthigear retainingiMutiesratcae slaw «aia erates cults hee alesis ohmeotercia crs Mainshatt bearing retaineh. ace. c.sssse nse sa oot Romro ene noienear sre: Roversershiatt? sara cmstetc eraicietous Sogn erhc ei ee eR raromen eee eae Casing ibolisics ii. acc ous we eye ciecaya Reptas toe citi me ene ee eae Piniontbearing retainertvercamstchecc 2s +. «2c: cee eee mcrae te emee eae ene Draingpluciy saa... ccnacchenereeke'® c@iss roti ava:cha an 8 eae neeealate eeene

18 108 Wa 22 18 29 18

25 150 15 30 25 40 2S

OilstillersOluGgyes js..cscc oceans avanccene sls iba: ans a a)a lo Seer Gearbox to engine: IMR DOUS Bitrerct cicon.cocoece, cesun Crue aeenI te ceue lots + Sic 6s0a Sheen REE mee en Re MiTOSDOUS Miucpecccacs eesns: Raa] ore cc PRON gee sane nous, ace)9. Rm cree ne ee

18

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5-speed End cover bolts

Automatic transmission iTVDO Perm

nese 6 direc: vigaa: < Mrgher a leemerens TapeDane ay-aueise: oe lereitoreeetetene

3-speed epicyclic gear train type incorporating multi-plate clutches and brake, and one brake band. Drive transmitted from engine by torque converter

Torque converter stall speed Models up toiSeptembenil975 ........ cae :. cens -. or.. s tie Models from September 1975: TiS lite See a -cremere ete permeate enc)cos,= cis! 9) alc SACRE eR tee Oemee tate eatin ve

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81

Chapter 8 Braking system For modifications and information applicable to later models, see Chapter 12 Supplement

Contents Brake disc - removal, overhaul and refitting .................. 10 Brake pedal - removal and refitting .................0ccceeeee 22 Brake pressure regulator - description .............0..e0eeee 18) Calipers, pistons, and seals (Girling) - removal, inspection and (EU LLNS pices RS State 2 Alec 8 gh ee co 8 Calipers, pistons, and seals (Kelsey-Hayes) - removal, inspection SINCULCULCITIG Mreweeseet nk RPOEM EC is c's ss soe 4 ln ee 9 Calipers, pistons, and seals (Teves) - removal, inspection and NGIts} 2s a ORR ot ee eS MM os ae tls 7 Disc pads (Girling) - inspection and renewal................... 5 Disc pads (Kelsey-Hayes) - inspection and renewal............. Gi Disc pads (Teves) - inspection and renewal ................05. A® Fault finding - braking system ...............4. See end of Chapter SchielalGEScniplloniers seni. Meth, He MM, ccs a ease dareas 1.

Handbrake lever and cables - removal, refitting and adjustment ... Hydraulic pipes and hoses - inspection and renewal ............ Hydraulic'system'= bleeding: aa.. sss ern ase sse me e .nee Master cylinder=:overhaulis sass anieces aie ster Micronic cinta eee eee Master cylinder - removal and refitting ...................0.. Rear brake shoes (manual adjustment) - inspection and renewal .. Rear brake shoes (self-adjusting lever type) - inspection and FOMOWAL Jaces: sie e aie wo dyin allied: «cole avian eto oa Rear brake shoes (self-adjusting wedge type) - inspection and FONOWal Es: «Beis: a ihe « « Grates afcPebege iste a Giayele eee een ee rel Rear brakes'(manual)’= adjustment” 2 =. sees cee eee eter oe tRoutine:maintenance «ac. = «2 oat eal ae acre nee Servo unit - removal and refitting ....................2-0000Wheel cylinder - removal, overhaul and refitting ...............

21 19 20 16 15 11 12

13 3 2 17 14

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for

& | Fairly easy, suitable

novice with little

SS | for beginner with

experience

W | some experience

N& | suitable for competent

S

Fairly difficult,

Difficult, suitable for

DIY mechanic

i

oS

N|

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Specifications TOMA

ATO 2) peat

neces fines ate eee

tial etn

ie

veoh

Four wheel hydraulic, disc front and drum rear. Dual hydraulic system diagonally connected, servo assistance on most models. Cable operated handbrake on rear wheels

Hydraulic fluid type/specification

....................

Hydraulic fluid to FMVSS 116 DOT 3 or 4

Front brakes eitrsttun » Ga aad aie oe, et na Naadalore

ISCIGIAINICIGh MEENA YR Disc thickness (new): 0« cua #6 en seit weit Amey tes » bialtiseelet Sa KUVECMCINGITOCOSis 4wialale tom EXCGDEGHIKVVENGINGIMOGGIS wayeap cients cts «cusmalty» Disc thickness (minimum): +6 se ols sin s s lal e eia cit t @nu a stt a t ter e c a IS GC BARKWWENGINeMO 61 « ’ whe c ele «+ ir risp slel en « alu 2 e tay e tra S GSI INO ime Excepticil) KW CnG oe) eis e aisl + t eGi ead lsr Cis . e aee e e et me I) MU XI IA UT DISC UM-O Pad thickness (new): s ’ s e en r ai e ou ec0 n ls. t ofs i ss s e mi t m li c pa o + » e t i e v i w n s/ ac |S CE MO SaakWrenGine . s . n . e e . ee . e ee . ce . ce 6 . . . . . ls de mo ne gi en Except 81 kW on pt ce ex e, at pl g in ck ba g in ud cl in , um im Pad thickness (min en ad re ne ee cs er ad re e ete c cc c ie er ec i.e .. Kelsey-Hayes type) g in ck ba g in ud cl in t no , pe ty es ay -H ey ls Pad thickness (minimum, Ke m me enn ce re ee cr de c cc . T A I plate) Maer Arey iS

239 mm (9.4 in) 20 mm (0.79 in) 12 mm (0.47 in)

18 mm (0.71 in) 10 mm (0.40 in) 0.06 mm (0.002 in) ( 10 mm (0.40 in) 14 mm (0.55 in)

7 mm (0.276 in)

2 mm (0.08 in)

8e2 Braking system rr

Rear brakes Drum internal diameter:

180 mm (7.08 in) 200 mm (7.87 in)

Manual adjustment and self-adjusting wedge type Self-adjusting lever type ................ Lining thickness (new): RIVELOGUININGS trmeciti tae acto che ng teedene tomer Bonded linings Wear limit: e Rivettedilinings Ryea scm acmels Bonded linings Handbrake adjustment: Manual adjustment and self-adjusting wedge type Self-adjusting lever type .............-..

5 mm (0.197 in) 4 mm (0.157 in)

2.5 mm (0.1 in)

1.0 mm (0.04 in) 2 notches

4 notches

Torque wrench settings Caliper to strut - UK models Caliper to strut - US models ............... eas =eres erese DISCOUD meres epe st etc PRadiretainen (GIninG) marcia. sella Caliper guide pins (Kelsey-Hayes) Backplate to axle Wheel cylinder - UK models Wheel cylinder - US models ............... Master cylinder Brake hoses Servo

1

General description

The braking system is of four wheel hydraulic dual circuit type, with discs at the front and drum brakes at the rear. The dual circuit system is of the diagonal type so that with the failure of one hydraulic circuit, one front and one rear brake remain operative. A direct-acting brake servo unit is fitted to most models. The handbrake operates the rear brakes by cable, and on most models a warning light is provided on the instrument panel for the handbrake and low fluid level. Note that the Kelsey-Hayes type caliper may also be referred to as the Mk 2 type caliper.

2

thickness of the rear brake shoe linings should also be checked and renewed, if necessary. Where applicable the rear brake shoes should be adjusted. 4 Inspect the hydraulic pipes and unions for chafing, leakage, cracks and corrosion and also check the condition of the brake servo vacuum hose. 5 At the less frequent intervals given, renew the brake fluid in the hydraulic system.

4 3

Rear brakes (manual) -

adjustment

EN

SN

hi

1 Jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands. Check the front wheels and release the handbrake. 2 On models fitted with a brake pressure regulator, press the lever towards the rear axle to release any residual pressure.

Routine maintenance

1 The brake fluid level should be checked every week and, if necessary, topped-up with the specified fluid to the maximum level mark (photo). The reservoir is translucent and the check can be made without removing the filler cap. Any fall in level should be investigated. 2 At the intervals given in Routine Maintenance at the beginning of this manual the front brake pad thickness should be checked and all four pads renewed if any one is below the specified minimum thickness. 3 At the specified service intervals the

3 Remove the rubber plug from the adjuster hole in the backplate. Using a screwdriver, lever the adjuster wheel, teeth downwards (handle of the screwdriver upwards) until the lining binds in the drum (photo). Now back off the adjuster until the roadwheel will rotate without the drum touching the shoes. 4 Refit the rubber plug then adjust the opposite wheel in the same way.

2.1 Removing the master cylinder filler cap (Scirocco)

Disc pads (Teves) inspection and renewal

w Ss

x ~

a Re as

1 Brake pads wear more quickly than drum

brake shoes, and they should be checked for

wear at the intervals given inSection 2. The thickness of the pad, including the backing

plate, must not be less than the dimension

given in the Specifications. If the pads wear below this thickness then damage to the

3.3 Adjusting the rear brake (manual adjustment type)

Braking system 8¢3

i

4.1 Checking disc pad wear (Teves). Pad is arrowed

4.3b

ire clip fitted to some pad retaining pins (Teves)

brake disc may result. Measure the pad thickness through the holes in the roadwheels as shown (photo). 2 The pads are different. The inner one is flat on both sides, the outer one has a slot cut in its outer face (photo) which engages with a boss on the caliper. 3 To remove the pads, jack up the front of the car and remove the wheels. Using a suitable drift tap out the pins securing the disc pads (photo). On some cars there may be a wire securing clip fitted round these pins (photo). This should be pulled off. If there is no clip the pins will have sleeves. 4 Remove the spreader and pull out the inner, direct pad (photos). If you are going to put the pads back then they must be marked so that they go back in the same place. Use a piece

Meh.

Fert

4.2 Teves outer brake pad showing slot

B

4.3a Removing pad retaining pins (Teves)

4.4a Removing the spreader. . .

of wire with a hook on the end to pull the pad out. Now lever the caliper over so that there is space between the disc and the outer pad, ease the pad away from the caliper onto the disc and lift it out. 5 Clean out the pad holder and check that the rubber dust cover is not damaged. Insert the outer pad and fit it over the projection on the caliper (photo). It will be necessary to push the piston in to insert the inner pad. This may cause the header tank to overflow unless action is taken to prevent it. Either draw some fluid out of the tank with a pipette or slacken the, bleed screw. We prefer the first method, but do not suck the fluid out with a syphon. It is poisonous. Use a pipette that has been

used for brake fluid only, not the battery hydrometer.

6 Push the piston in and check that the angle of the edges of the raised face of the piston is 20° to the face of the caliper (photo). Make a gauge out of cardboard as shown in the photo. If the angle is more or less, turn the piston until the angle is correct. 7 Insert the inner pad, fit the spreader and install the pins. Fit a new locking wire if the type of pin requires it. 8 Do not forget to shut the bleed screw (if it was opened) as soon as the piston has been forced back. We do not like this method because there is a chance of air entering the cylinder and we do not like spare brake fluid about on the caliper while working on the friction pads. 9 Work the footbrake a few times to settle the pistons. Now repeat the job for the other wheel. 10 Refit the roadwheels, lower to the ground and take the car for a test run.

5

4.6 Checking the caliper piston angle (Teves)

Disc pads (Girling) inspection and renewal

WU

1 In general, the method is the same as for the following with caliper the Teves differences. 2 Lever off the pad spreader spring with a screwdriver, and pull out the pins with pliers after removing the screw which locks them in position.

8e4 Braking system

E

Fig. 8.1 Checking Girling disc pad thickness on models with steel wheels (Sec 5)

Fig. 8.2 Checking Girling disc pa thickness on models with alloy wheels (Sec 5)

Fig. 8.3 Removing the Girling disc pad spreader with screwdriver (Sec 5)

3 Remove and refit the pads as with the Teves caliper. Install the pins and the locking screw. A repair kit for brake pads will include new pins and retainer so use them.

4 The pad spreader spring is pressed on. The arrow must point in the direction of rotation of the disc when the car is travelling forward.

6 Disc pads (Kelsey-Hayes) -

EN

inspection and renewal

Fig. 8.4 Disc pad pin retaining screw

Fig. 8.5 Removing Girling disc pad pin

location on Girling caliper (Sec 5)

(Sec 5)

iee

NS

he

eee 4, Seba . BAe

the roadwheel it necessary

to check

the pa

thickness. Note that the measurement must not include the backing plate. 2 The inner and outer pads are different, the

inner lining being slightly smaller and chamfered at each end (photo). 3 To remove the pads, the front of the car must be jacked up and supported on axle stands, and the roadwheel removed. Apply the handbrake. 4 Unclip and remove the two anti-rattle springs (photo).

5 Using an Allen key, unscrew the guide pins from the caliper mounting bracket, then slide

6.2 Inner (left) and outer (right) disc pads

(Kelsey-Hayes)

aE — 6.4 Anti-rattle spring location s

(Kelsey-Hayes)

the caliper forwards and tie it to one side without straining the hydraulic hose (photos). 6 Remove the disc pads from the bracket (photos). Brush any accumulated dust and dirt

from the bracket and inner cavities of the

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13

MOT Test Checks rere1 This is a guide to getting your vehicle through the MOT test. Obviously it will not be possible to examine the vehicle to the same Standard as the professional MOT tester. However, working through the following checks will enable you to identify any problem areas before submitting the vehicle for the test. Where a testable component is in borderline condition, the tester has discretion in deciding whether to pass or fail it. The basis of such discretion is whether the tester would be happy for a close relative or friend to use the vehicle with the component in that condition. If the vehicle presented is clean and evidently well cared for, the tester may be more inclined to pass a borderline component than if the vehicle is scruffy and apparently neglected. It has only been possible to summarise the test requirements here,

based on the regulations in force at the time of printing. Test standards are becoming increasingly stringent, although there are some exemptions for older vehicles. For full details obtain a copy of the Haynes publication Pass the MOT! (available from stockists of Haynes manuals). An assistant will be needed to help carry out some of these checks. The checks have been sub-divided into four categories, as follows:

4 Checks carried out _

FROM THE DRIVER’S

2 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE

_ SEAT

3 Checks carried out

ON THE GROUND :

Se

4 checks carried out on ©

WITH THE VEHICLE

YOUR VEHICLE’S

RAISED AND THE

EXHAUST EMISSION

WHEELS FREE TO TURN

SYSTEM

41 Checks carried out FROM THE DRIVER’S SEAT

Handbrake [] Test

the

operation

of the

handbrake.

Excessive travel (too many clicks) indicates incorrect brake or cable adjustment.

(1 Check

that

the

handbrake

cannot

be

released by tapping the lever sideways. Check the security of the lever mountings.

(_] Check that the brake pedal is secure good condition. Check also for signs leaks on the pedal, floor or carpets, would indicate failed seals in the brake cylinder.

and in of fluid which master

Check the servo unit (when applicable) by operating the brake pedal several times, then keeping the pedal depressed and starting the engine. As the engine starts, the pedal will move down slightly. If not, the vacuum hose or

the servo itself may be faulty.

movement of the steering wheel, indicating wear in the column support bearings or couplings.

Windscreen

and mirrors must be free of cracks or

(_] The windscreen

other significant damage within the driver's field of view. (Small stone chips are acceptable.) Rear view mirrors must be secure, intact, and capable of being adjusted.

Steering wheel and column Footbrake C1 Depress the brake does not creep down master cylinder fault. a few seconds, then pedal travels nearly

[] Examine the steering wheel for fractures or

pedal and check that it to the floor, indicating a Release the pedal, wait depress it again. If the to the floor before firm

is ir pa re or nt me st ju ad e ak br , lt fe is resistance is e er th , gy on sp s el fe l da pe e necessary. If th be st mu h ic wh em st sy c li au air in the hydr

removed by bleeding.

looseness of the hub, spokes or rim.

[] Move the steering wheel from side to side and then up and down. Check that the , mn lu co e th on e os lo t no is l ee wh steering

indicating wear or a loose retaining nut. Continue moving the steering wheel as before, but also turn it slightly from left to right. [] Check that the steering wheel is not loose al rm no ab no is e er th at th d an , mn lu co e th on

|

|

, 290mm

| I

rere2e MOT Test Checks r fo s se ho le ib ex fl e ak br t on fr th bo t ec CJ Insp

Electrical equipment LJ Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the horn. L] Check the windscreen washers and wipers, examining the wiper blades; renew damaged or perished blades. Also check the operation of the stop-lights.

e th rn Tu . er bb ru e th of n io at or ri te de or cracks steering from lock to lock, and ensure that the y an or , re ty l, ee wh e th t ac nt co t hoses do no

part of the steering or suspension mechanism. With the brake pedal firmly depressed, check . re su es pr r de un s ak le or es lg bu r fo s se the ho

Seat belts and seats Note: The following checks are applicable to all seat belts, front and rear.

L] Examine the webbing of all the belts (including rear belts if fitted) for cuts, serious fraying or deterioration. Fasten and unfasten each belt to check the buckles. If applicable, check the retracting mechanism. Check the security of all seat belt mountings accessible from inside the vehicle. [J The front seats themselves must be securely attached and the backrests must lock in the upright position.

Doors _] Both front doors must be able to be opened and closed from outside and inside, and must latch securely when closed.

L] Check the operation of the sidelights and number plate lights. The lenses and reflectors must be secure, clean and undamaged. L] Check the operation and alignment of the headlights. The headlight reflectors must not be tarnished and the lenses must be undamaged.

L] Switch on the ignition and check the operation of the direction indicators (including the instrument panel tell-tale) and the hazard warning lights. Operation of the sidelights and stop-lights must not affect the indicators - if it does, the cause is usually a bad earth at the

2 Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE ON THE GROUND

rear light cluster. L] Check the operation of the rear foglight(s), including the warning light on the instrument panel or in the switch.

Vehicle identification _] Number plates must be in good condition, secure and legible, with letters and numbers correctly spaced — spacing at (A) should be twice that at (B).

Footbrake J Examine the master cylinder, brake pipes

and servo unit for leaks, loose corrosion or other damage.

mountings,

Steering and suspension CL] Have your assistant turn the steering wheel from side to side slightly, up to the point where the steering gear just begins to transmit this movement to the roadwheels. Check for excessive free play between the steering wheel and the steering gear, indicating wear or insecurity of the steering column joints, the column-to-steering gear coupling, or the steering gear itself. L] Have your assistant turn the steering wheel more vigorously in each direction, so that the roadwheels just begin to turn. As this is done, examine

all the

steering

joints,

linkages,

fittings and attachments. Renew any component that shows signs of wear or damage. On vehicles with power steering, check the security and condition of the steering pump, drivebelt and hoses.

[] Check

that the vehicle

is standing

level,

and at approximately the correct ride height.

Shock absorbers Depress each corner of the vehicle in turn, then release it. The vehicle should rise and then settle in its normal position. If the vehicle continues to rise and fall, the shock absorber is defective. A shock absorber which has seized will also cause the vehicle to fail.

‘Bi Re

:

in.

ee

cia

MS

The fluid re: servoir must be secure and the

[] The VIN

plate and/or homologation

must be legible.

FORD

MOTOR

oD re

COMPANY

if

.

COLOUR/COULEUR

On.

plate

fluid level must be between the upper (A) and lower (B) markings.

MOT Test Checks rere3 Exhaust system L] Start the engine. With your assistant holding a rag over the tailpipe, check the entire system for leaks. Repair or renew leaking sections.

Front and rear suspension and wheel bearings CL] Starting at the front right-hand side, grasp the roadwheel at the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock positions and shake it vigorously. Check for free play or insecurity at the wheel bearings, suspension balljoints, or suspension mountings, pivots and attachments. L] Now grasp the wheel at the 12 o’clock and

6 o’clock positions and repeat the previous inspection. Spin the wheel, and check for roughness or tightness of the front wheel bearing.

L] The same general checks apply to vehicles fitted with other suspension types, such as torsion bars, hydraulic displacer units, etc. Ensure that all mountings and attachments are secure, that there are no signs of excessive wear, corrosion or damage, and (on hydraulic types) that there are no fluid leaks or damaged pipes. L] Inspect the shock absorbers for signs of serious fluid leakage. Check for wear of the mounting bushes or attachments, or damage to the body of the unit.

Driveshafts (fwd vehicles only) L] Rotate each front wheel in turn and inspect the constant velocity joint gaiters for splits or damage. Also check that each driveshaft is straight and undamaged.

TNS

o Checks carried out WITH THE VEHICLE RAISED AND THE WHEELS FREE TO TURN Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle, and securely support it on axle stands. Position the stands clear of the suspension assemblies. Ensure that the wheels are

clear of the ground and that the steering can be turned from lock to lock.

Steering mechanism

Ll) lf excess free play is suspected at a component pivot point, this can be confirmed by using a large screwdriver or similar tool and levering between the mounting and the component

attachment.

This

will

confirm

whether the wear is in the pivot bush, its retaining bolt, or in the mounting itself (the bolt holes can often become elongated).

) Have your assistant turn the steering from lock to lock. Check that the steering turns smoothly, and that no part of the steering mechanism, including a wheel or tyre, fouls any brake hose or pipe or any part of the body structure.

Braking system LI] If possible brake pad wear that the friction excessively, (A) fractured, pitted,

without

dismantling,

check

and disc condition. Ensure lining material has not worn and that the discs are not scored or badly worn (B).

(] Examine the steering rack rubber gaiters for damage or insecurity of the retaining clips. If power steering is fitted, check for signs of damage or leakage of the fluid hoses, pipes or for excessive Also check connections. stiffness or binding of the steering, a missing split pin or locking device, or severe corrosion of the body structure within 30 cm of any steering component attachment point.

[ Carry out all the above checks at the other front wheel, and then at both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers (] Examine the suspension struts (when applicable) for serious fluid leakage, corrosion, or damage to the casing. Also check the security of the mounting points. CJ If coil springs are fitted, check that the spring ends locate in their seats, and that the spring is not corroded, cracked or broken. all at th k ec ch , ted fit e ar s ng ri sp f Ll If lea leaves are intact, that the axle is securely no is e er th at th d an , ng ri sp ch ea to ed ch ta at s, ng ti un mo e ey ng ri sp e th of n io at deterior bushes, and shackles.

pipes brake rigid all the Examine underneath the vehicle, and the flexible hose(s) at the rear. Look for corrosion, chafing or insecurity of the pipes, and for signs of bulging under pressure, chafing, splits or deterioration of the flexible hoses.

(] Look for signs of fluid leaks at the brake calipers or on the brake backplates. Repair or renew leaking components. [] Slowly spin each wheel, while your assistant

depresses

and

releases.

the

footbrake. Ensure that each brake is operating and does not bind when the pedal is released.

reres MOT Test Checks the engine speed to return to idle, and watch for smoke emissions from the exhaust tailpipe. If the idle speed is obviously much too high, or if dense

mechanism, L] Examine the handbrake checking for frayed or broken cables, excessive corrosion, or wear or insecurity of the linkage. Check that the mechanism works on each relevant wheel, and releases fully, without binding. LJ It is not possible to test brake efficiency without special equipment, but a road test can be carried out later to check that the vehicle pulls up in a straight line.

Fuel and exhaust systems L] Inspect the fuel tank (including the filler cap), fuel pipes, hoses and unions. All components must be secure and free from leaks. |] Examine the exhaust system over its entire length, checking for any damaged, broken or missing mountings, security of the retaining clamps and rust or corrosion.

properly seated, and that the wheel

is not

distorted or damaged. L] Check that the tyres are of the correct size

for the vehicle, that they are of the same size and type on each axle, and that the pressures are correct.

(1 Check

the tyre tread

depth.

The

legal

minimum at the time of writing is 1.6 mm over at least three-quarters of the tread width. Abnormal tread wear may indicate incorrect front wheel alignment.

Body corrosion L] Check the condition of the entire vehicle structure for signs of corrosion in load-bearing areas. (These include chassis box sections, side

sills,

cross-members,

pillars,

and

all

suspension, steering, braking system and seat belt mountings and anchorages.) Any corrosion which has seriously reduced the thickness of a load-bearing area is likely to cause the vehicle to fail. In this case professional repairs are likely to be needed. L] Damage or corrosion which causes sharp or otherwise dangerous edges to be exposed will also cause the vehicle to fail.

blue or clearly-visible

black smoke comes from the tailpipe for more than 5 seconds, the vehicle will fail. As a rule of thumb, blue smoke signifies oil being burnt (engine wear) while black smoke signifies unburnt fuel (dirty air cleaner element, or other carburettor or fuel system fault). (An exhaust gas analyser capable of (CO) and carbon monoxide measuring hydrocarbons (HC) is now needed. If such an instrument cannot be hired or borrowed, a local garage may agree to perform the check for a small fee.

CO emissions (mixture) LU At the time of writing, the maximum CO level at idle is 3.5% for vehicles first used after August 1986 and 4.5% for older vehicles. From January 1996 a much tighter limit (around 0.5%) applies to catalyst-equipped vehicles first used from August 1992. If the CO level cannot be reduced far enough to pass the test (and the fuel and ignition systems are otherwise in good condition) then the carburettor is badly worn, or there is some problem in the fuel injection system or catalytic converter (as applicable).

HC emissions LJ With the CO emissions within limits, HC emissions must be no more than 1200 ppm (parts per million). If the vehicle fails this test at idle, it can be re-tested at around 2000 rpm; if the HC level is then 1200 ppm or less, this

counts as a pass. L] Excessive HC emissions can be caused by oil being burnt, but they are more likely to be due to unburnt fuel.

4 checks carried out on oS ee YOUR VEHICLE’S EXHAUST _ EMISSION SYSTEM Petrol models

Wheels and tyres [] Examine the sidewalls and tread area of each tyre in turn. Check for cuts, tears, lumps, bulges, separation of the tread, and exposure of the ply or cord due to wear or damage. Check that the tyre bead is correctly seated on the wheel rim, that the valve is sound and

L] Have the engine at normal operating temperature, and make sure that it is in good tune (ignition system in good order, air filter element clean, etc).

_] Before any measurements are carried out, raise the engine speed to around 2500 rpm, and hold it at this speed for 20 seconds. Allow

Diesel models LJ The only emission test applicable to Diesel engines is the measuring of exhaust smoke density. The test involves accelerating the engine several times to its maximum unloaded speed.

Note: /t is of the utmost importance that the engine timing belt is in good condition before the test is carried out. _] Excessive smoke can be caused by a dirty air cleaner element. Otherwise, professional advice may be needed to find the cause.

Tools and Working Facilities rerss

Introduction A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doing-it-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased meet the relevant national safety standards and are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. Newcomers to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and confine themselves to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as confidence and experience grow, more difficult tasks can be undertaken, with extra

tools being purchased as, needed. In this way, a minor repair tool kit can Repair and overhaul considerable period of major cash outlays. The yourselfer will have a tool

and when, they are Maintenance and be built up into a tool kit over a time, without any experienced do-itkit good enough for

most repair and overhaul procedures, and will

add tools from the Special category when it is felt that the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit The tools given in this list should be t en if em ir qu m re u m i n i m a ed as er id ns co routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We n io at in mb co se of ha rc pu d e n th e m m o c e r e th ed nd -e en op d, en e on g in (r rs ne an sp en op an e th iv ns pe ex re mo gh ou th ; al r) he ot es of ag nt va ad e th ve gi do ey th , es on d de en both types of spanner.

d an 14 , 13 , 12 , 11 , 10 : rs ne an sp n io at in mb L Co 17mm x) ro pp (a w ja m m 35 r ne an sp le ab st ju Ad (1

y ke ug pl n ai dr ox rb ea /G mp su ne gi C] En C1 Set of feeler gauges ) rt se in er bb ru h it (w r ne an sp ug pl 1 Spark

CL) Spark plug gap adjustment tool L) Brake bleed nipple spanner L] Screwdrivers: Flat blade and cross blade approx 100 mm long x 6mm dia

L] L] L] L] L) L] L] L] L]

Combination pliers Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Oil can Oil filter removal tool Fine emery cloth Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

L] L] 1) L] CL) CL] CL] L] L] 1 C1) L]

Scraper Centre-punch Pin punch Hacksaw Brake hose clamp Brake bleeding kit Selection of twist drills Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys (including Torx type) Selection of files Wire brush Axle stands

LJ Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive, they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the halfinch square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you

L] Light with extension lead L] Torx bits

Special tools

sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. It is worth noting that many of the larger DIY superstores now carry a large range of special tools for hire at modest rates. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle

Self-locking grips

manufacturers’ special tool is given. However,

Ball pein hammer Soft-faced mallet rubber)

sometimes there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. _] Valve spring compressor (see illustration) ] Valve grinding tool _] Piston ring compressor (see illustration) _) Piston ring removal/installation tool (see illustration) Cylinder bore hone (see illustration)

cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need

to be supplemented by tools from the Special list: (| Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) (see illustration) Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with

(plastic/aluminium

Screwdrivers: Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby), and narrow (electrician’s) types Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short (chubby) types Pliers: Long-nosed Side cutters (electrician’s)

Circlip (internal and external) Cold chisel - 25 mm Scriber

or

Balljoint separator Coil spring compressors (where applicable) Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller (see illustration)

es ti li ci Fa g n i k r o W d n a S OI TO rer*s

Valve spring compressor

Piston ring compressor

Piston ring removal/installation tool

Cylinder bore hone

Micrometer set

Vernier calipers

Dial test indicator and magnetic stand

Compression testing gauge

Clutch plate alignment set

Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

Tools and Working Facilities rer-7 L] Impact screwdriver L) Micrometer and/or vernier calipers (see illustrations) L] Dial gauge (see illustration)

L] Universal electrical multi-meter L] Cylinder compression gauge (see illustration) L] Clutch plate alignment set (see illustration) L] Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool (see illustration)

L] Bush and bearing removal/installation set (see illustration)

L] L] _ O L

Stud extractors (see illustration) Tap and die set (see illustration) Lifting tackle Trolley jack

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source, since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools. There are plenty of good tools around at

t se on ti la al st in l/ va mo re g in ar be d an Bush

reasonable prices, but always purchase items which meet the

aim to relevant

national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice

before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean and serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage as wall for items such or workshop screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked, and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools

Stud extractor set

is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an ownermechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8 mm. This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

Tap and die set

reres General Repair Procedures Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, and procedures the following observe

instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets When separating components at their mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or similar implements into the joint between the faces in order to prise them apart. This can cause severe damage which results in oil leaks, coolant Separation is along the joint order to break

leaks, etc upon reassembly. usually achieved by tapping with a soft-faced hammer in the seal. However, note that

this method may not be suitable where dowels are used for component location. Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two components, a new one must be fitted on reassembly; fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry, with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a

joint face, use a tool which is unlikely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of jointing compound, if this is being used, unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear, and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

Oil seals Oil seals can be removed by levering them out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or similar implement. Alternatively, a number of self-tapping screws may be screwed into the seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers or some similar device in order to pull the seal free. Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed. The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged, and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the component cannot be restored, and the manufacturer has not made provision for slight relocation of the seal relative to the sealing surface, the component should be renewed. Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease. Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sealed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with

its face flush with the housing top face (unless otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has set in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing fluid will often overcome this problem if the offending item is soaked for a while before attempting to release it. The use of an impact driver may also provide a means of releasing such stubborn fastening devices, when used appropriate the with conjunction in screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these methods works, it may be necessary to resort to the careful application of heat, or the use of a hacksaw or nut splitter device. Studs are usually removed by locking two nuts together on the threaded part, and then using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off below the surface of the component in which they are mounted can sometimes be removed using a stud extractor. Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil, grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause

the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated in the repair procedure. When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then retighten to the specified setting. However, this should not be attempted where angular tightening has been used. For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are no longer specified for the latter stages of tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in the correct sequence, followed by one or more stages of tightening through specified angles.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

appropriate size to install the seal and, if the

Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing during tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing. Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are used to lock a critical component such as a _ big-end bearing retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are folded over to retain a nut or bolt should always be renewed. Self-locking nuts can be re-used in noncritical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt

seal

or stud thread.

down

housing

is shouldered,

to the shoulder.

drive

the

seal

If the seal housing is

that self-locking

However,

it should

stiffnuts tend

be noted

to lose their

d an e, us of s od ri pe ng lo r te af s es en effectiv . se ur co of er tt ma a as d we ne re be en th should th wi ed ac pl re be ys wa al st mu ns pi Split new ones of the correct size for the hole. When thread-locking compound is found rebe to is h ic wh er en st fa a of s ad re th on the re wi a th wi off d ne ea cl be ld ou sh it used, nd ou mp co h es fr d an t, en lv so d an h us br applied on reassembly.

Special tools Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily-available alternatives to the manufacturer’s special tools are described, and are shown in use. In some instances, where no

alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer's tool, and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly-skilled and have a thorough understanding of the procedures described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved.

Environmental considerations When

disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to

any detrimental environmental effects. Do not, for instance, pour any of the above liquids down drains into the general sewage system, or onto the ground to soak away. Many local council refuse tips provide a facility for waste oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of these facilities are available, consult your local Environmental Health Department, or the National Rivers Authority, for further advice.

With the universal tightening-up of legislation regarding the emission of environmentally-harmful substances from motor vehicles, most vehicles have tamperproof devices fitted to the main adjustment points of the fuel system. These devices are primarily designed to prevent unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air mixture, with the chance of a consequent increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are found during servicing or

overhaul, they should, wherever possible, be renewed or refitted in accordance with the manufacturer’s requirements or current legislation.

Note: Itis antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil

recycling bank, call this number free.

Buying spare parts & Vehicle identification numbers rerss

Buying spare parts Spare parts are available from many sources, for example: VW garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed VW garages - This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and are otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim, etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your car is still under

warranty - non-VW components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your car’s engine and chassis number, and if possible. to take the ‘old’ part along for positive identification. Remember that many parts are available on a factory exchange scheme - any parts returned

should

always

be clean!

It

obviously makes good sense to go straight to to the specialists on your car for this type of

etc). Motor factors will often provide new or reconditioned components on a_ part exchange basis - this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification

numbers It is most important to identify the vehicle accurately when ordering spare parts or asking for information. There have been many modifications to this range already. The vehicle identification plate is on top of the frame by the radiator (photo). The chassis number is on the top of the right-hand front suspension strut housing. The engine number is on the cylinder block by the distributor (photo). The transmission code is stamped on the top of the flange where the transmission joins the engine. These numbers should be identified and

recorded by the owner; they are required when ordering spares, going through the customs, and regrettably, by the police, if the

vehicle is stolen. When ordering spares remember that VW output is such that inevitably spares vary, are duplicated. and are held on a usage basis. If the storeman does not have the correct identification, he cannot produce the correct item. It is a good idea to take the old part if possible to compare it with a new one. The storeman

has many customers to satisfy, so

be accurate and patient. In some cases, particularly in the brake system, more than one manufacturer supplies an assembly, eg both Teves and Girling supply front calipers. The assemblies may be interchangeable but the integral parts are not. This is only one of the pitfalls in the buying of spares, so be careful to make an ally of the storeman. When fitting accessories it is best to fit VW ones. They are designed recommended specifically for the vehicle.

part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops - These are often very good places to buy materials

and components needed for the maintenance of your car (eg oil filters, spark plugs, bulbs,

\4

84 48 WVWZZZB801ZCWO7 Ki

drivebelts, oils and greases, touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general

accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors - Good factors will stock all of ar we h ic wh ts en on mp co t an rt po im re the mo out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust system, brake cylinders/pipes/hoses/ seals/shoes and pads,

Kg

|

|

kg

kg

kg

SapWy

The vehicle identification plate

Engine number location

reFeio Fault Finding

Introduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a or adjustments haphazard dozen replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault — power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows: Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately. Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won’t start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom.

Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to,the

new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn’t simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected. Don’t take anything for granted.

Particularly,

don’t

forget

that

a

‘new’

component may itself be defective (especially

if it’s been

rattling round

in the boot for

months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they

are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely

unfavourable

conditions —

heat,

vibration and chemical attack and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (-) terminal. The various electrical components — motors, bulb holders, etc — are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the circuit will be incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine and/or

gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either

Fault Finding rere11 to component malfunction or to defects in the Current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 9. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known ~ as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

Spares and tool kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed

Engine will not start Engine fails to turn when starter operated (_] Flat battery (recharge use jump leads or push start) ed rod cor or se loo als min ter y ter Bat O

in Tools

and

working

facilities,

with

the

addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance: |_|] Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped L] HT lead and plug cap - long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points (where applicable) |_| Drivebelt(s) - emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage |_] Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp)

|_| Battery Engine Starter Starter

earth earth motor motor

to body defective strap loose (or solenoid) wiring loose internal fault (see Chapter 9)

Starter motor spins without turning engine Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

| Battery jump leads

[] Tow-rope LJ | _] |_]

Ignition waterproofing aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen

|] Wormdrive clips Tube of filler paste If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth considering: Clutch and throttle cables

Cylinder head gasket __| Alternator brushes [_] Tyre valve core

One of the motoring organisations will be able to advise on availability of fuel, etc, in foreign countries.

Engine turns normally but fails to start Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine and check for spark) No fuel in tank (check for delivery) Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (remove, clean and regap) Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Ignition/starter switch faulty Major mechanical failure (seizure) ee (s t ul fa al rn te in id no le so or r te ar St $0 a a2 cf Chapter 9)

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) ed od rr co or e os lo s al in rm te y er tt Ba _]

g n i k c e h c r o f l u f e s u A simple test lamp is electrical faults

! lk wa ng lo a u yo ve sa y a m es ar Carrying a few sp

rerei2 Fault Finding (_] Poor compression (see Chapter 1) (_] Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine fires but will not run _] Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold [_] Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) _] Ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

L] Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing cap) (| Carburettor needle valve sticking [] Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated) [_] Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine cuts out - other causes (_] Serious overheating L] Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running [] Oil level low or incorrect grade [1 Defective gauge or sender unit (] Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective IO Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged OUIOil pump worn or mountings loose

[] Worn main or big-end bearings

Engine cuts out and will not restart

k e n s t a e h r e v o e Engin

eee

Engine cuts out suddenly -

ignition fault

Ignition (no-charge) light illuminated

[_] Loose or disconnected LT wires Wet HT leads or distributor traversing water splash)

cap

(after

[_] Coil failure (check for spark) |_] Other ignition fault (See Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out - fuel fault _] Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective (check for delivery)

or filter blocked

Slack or broken drivebelt — re-tension or

renew (Chapter 2)

Ignition warning light not illuminated Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Engine waterways clogged Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning

|] Mixture too weak Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Engine noises Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration [_] Incorrect grade of fuel [J Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn (_}] Worn or maladjusted carburettor [_] Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose (| Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

Tapping or rattling [|] Worn valve gear Worn timing chain or belt Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping

Low engine oil pressure

Crank engine and check for spark. Note use of insulated tool

Note: Low oil pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

Unintentional mechanical contact (eg fan blades) Worn drivebelt Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump, etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Glossary of Technical Terms rere13 A ABS (Anti-lock brake system) A system, usually electronically controlled, that senses incipient wheel lockup during braking and relieves hydraulic pressure at wheels that are about to skid. Air bag An inflatable bag hidden in the steering wheel (driver’s side) or the dash or glovebox (passenger side). In a head-on Collision, the bags inflate, preventing the driver and front passenger from being thrown forward into the steering wheel or windscreen. Air cleaner A metal or plastic housing, containing a filter element, which removes _ dust and dirt from the air being drawn into the engine. Air filter element The actual filter in an air cleaner system, usually manufactured from pleated paper and requiring renewal at regular intervals.

Asbestos is a health hazard and the dust created by brake systems should never be inhaled or ingested. Axle A shaft on which a wheel revolves, or which revolves with a wheel. Also, a solid beam that connects the two wheels at one end of the vehicle. An axle which also transmits power to the wheels is known as a live axle. Axleshaft A single rotating shaft, on either side of the differential, which delivers power from the final drive assembly to the drive wheels. Also called a driveshaft or a halfshaft.

B Ball bearing An anti-friction bearing consisting of a hardened inner and outer race with hardened steel balls between two races. Bearing The curved surface on a shaft or ina bore, or the part assembled into either, that permits

relative

motion

between

them

with

minimum wear and friction.

Air filter

Allen key A hexagonal wrench which fits into a recessed hexagonal hole. Alligator clip

A long-nosed

spring-loaded

metal clip with meshing teeth. Used to make temporary electrical connections. A component in the electrical Alternator system which converts mechanical energy from a drivebelt into electrical energy to charge the battery and to operate the starting and _ electrical system ignition system, accessories. Ampere (amp) A unit of measurement for the flow of electric current. One amp is the amount of current produced by one volt acting through a resistance of one ohm. A substance used to Anaerobic sealer prevent bolts and screws from loosening. e uir req not es do it t tha s an me c bi ro ae An is nd bra e tit Loc e Th n. tio iva act for en yg ox

widely used. A substance (usually ethylene Antifreeze glycol) mixed with water, and added to a ng zi ee fr t en ev pr to , em st sy g in ol co s vehicle’ so al ze ee fr ti An . er nt wi in t an ol co of the d an n io os rr co t bi hi in to s al ic em ch ns contai at th ts si po de r he ot d an st ru of n io at rm the fo t an ol co d an or at di ra e th og cl to nd te would . cy en ci fi ef g in ol co ce du re d an es passag at th g in at co A nd ou mp Anti-seize co at th s er en st fa on g in iz se of sk reduces the ri as ch su , es ur at er mp te gh hi to are subjected exhaust manifold bolts and nuts. t ea gr th wi l ra ne mi s ou br fi l Asbestos A natura e th in ed us y l n o m m o c , ce heat resistan s. al ri te ma on ti ic fr e ak br of composition

Bearing

Big-end bearing The bearing in the end of the connecting rod that’s attached to the crankshaft. A valve on a brake wheel Bleed nipple cylinder, caliper or other hydraulic component that is opened to purge the hydraulic system of air. Also called a bleed screw. Brake bleeding Procedure for removing air from lines of a hydraulic brake system.

Brake drum The component of a drum brake that rotates with the wheels. Brake linings The friction material which contacts the brake disc or drum to retard the vehicle’s speed. The linings are bonded or riveted to the brake pads or shoes. Brake

pads

The replaceable friction

pads

that pinch the brake disc when the brakes are applied. Brake pads consist of a friction material bonded or riveted to a rigid backing plate. Brake shoe The crescent-shaped carrier to which the brake linings are mounted and which forces the lining against the rotating drum during braking. Braking systems For more information on braking systems, consult the Haynes Automotive Brake Manual. Breaker bar A long socket wrench handle providing greater leverage. Bulkhead The insulated partition between the engine and the passenger compartment.

C Caliper

The non-rotating part of a disc-brake assembly that straddles the disc and carries the brake pads. The caliper also contains the hydraulic components that cause the pads to pinch the disc when the brakes are applied. A caliper is also a measuring tool that can be set to measure inside or outside dimensions of an object. Camshaft A rotating shaft on which a series of cam lobes operate the valve mechanisms. The camshaft may be driven by gears, by sprockets and chain or by sprockets and a belt. Canister A container in an evaporative emission control system; contains activated charcoal granules to trap vapours from the fuel system.

Canister

Carburettor A device which mixes fuel with air in the proper proportions to provide a desired

power

output

from

a spark ignition

internal combustion engine.

Brake bleeding e ak br sc di a of t en on mp co e Th sc di Brake that rotates with the wheels.

Castellated Resembling the parapets along the top of a castle wall. For example, a castellated balljoint stud nut. Castor In wheel alignment, the backward or forward tilt of the steering axis. Castor is positive when the steering axis is inclined rearward at the top.

rerei4 Glossary of Technical Terms Catalytic converter A silencer-like device in the exhaust system which converts certain pollutants in the exhaust gases into less harmful substances.

D Diagnostic code Code numbers obtained by accessing the diagnostic mode of an engine management computer. This code can be used to determine the area in the system where a malfunction may be located. Disc brake A brake design incorporating a rotating disc onto which brake pads are squeezed. The resulting friction converts the energy of a moving vehicle into heat. Double-overhead

cam

(DOHC)

An engine

that uses two overhead camshafts, usually one for the intake valves and one for the

Catalytic converter

exhaust valves. The belt(s) used to drive Drivebelt(s) accessories such as the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, etc. off the crankshaft pulley.

Circlip A ring-shaped clip used to prevent endwise movement of cylindrical parts and shafts. An internal circlip is installed in a groove in a housing; an external circlip fits into a groove on the outside of a cylindrical piece such as a shaft. The amount of space between Clearance two parts. For example, between a piston and

The amount Endfloat movement between two parts. crankshaft, the distance that can move forward and back

of lengthwise As applied to a the crankshaft in the cylinder

block. A ) MS (E em st sy nt me ge na ma Engine s ge na ma h ic wh em st sy ed ll ro nt co er comput in s em st sy on ti ni ig e th d an n io ct je in el the fu an integrated fashion.

l ra ve se th wi rt pa A ld fo ni ma Exhaust e av le s se ga t us ha ex h ic wh h ug ro th es passag r te en d an rs be am ch on ti us mb co ne gi the en the exhaust pipe.

Ec Fan clutch A viscous (fluid) drive coupling device which permits variable engine fan speeds in relation to engine speeds. Feeler blade A thin strip or blade of hardened steel, ground to an exact thickness, used to check or measure clearances between parts.

a cylinder, between a bearing and a journal, etc. : Coil spring A spiral of elastic steel found in

various sizes throughout a vehicle, for example as a springing medium in the suspension and in the valve train. Compression Reduction in volume, and increase in pressure and temperature, of a gas, caused by squeezing it into a smaller space. Compression ratio The relationship between cylinder volume when the piston is at top dead centre and cylinder volume when the piston is at bottom dead centre.

Constant velocity (CV) joint A type of universal joint that cancels out vibrations caused by driving power being transmitted through an angle. Core plug A disc or cup-shaped metal device inserted in a hole in a casting through which core was removed when the casting was formed. Also known as a freeze plug or expansion plug. Crankcase The lower part of the engine block in which the crankshaft rotates. Crankshaft The main rotating member, or shaft,

running

the length

of the crankcase,

with offset “throws” to which the connecting rods are attached.

Accessory drivebelts Driveshaft Any shaft used to transmit motion. Commonly used when referring to the axleshafts on a front wheel drive vehicle. Drum brake A type of brake using a drumshaped metal cylinder attached to the inner surface of the wheel. When the brake pedal is pressed, curved brake shoes with friction linings press against the inside of the drum to slow or stop the vehicle.

E EGR valve A valve used to introduce exhaust gases into the intake air stream. Electronic control unit (ECU) A computer which controls (for instance) ignition and fuel injection systems, or an anti-lock braking system. For more information refer to the Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual. Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) A computer controlled fuel system that distributes fuel through an injector located in each intake port of the engine. Emergency brake A braking system, independent of the main hydraulic system, that can be used to slow or stop the vehicle if the primary brakes fail, or to hold the vehicle

Crankshaft assembly

Crocodile clip See Alligator clip

stationary even though the brake pedal isn’t depressed. It usually consists of a hand lever that actuates either front or rear brakes mechanically through a series of cables and linkages. Also known as a handbrake or parking brake.

Feeler blade

Firing order The order in which the engine cylinders fire, or deliver their power strokes, beginning with the number one cylinder.

Flywheel A heavy spinning wheel in which energy is absorbed and stored by means of momentum. On cars, the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft to smooth out firing impulses. Free play The amount of travel before any action takes place. The “looseness” in a linkage, or an assembly of parts, between the initial application of force and actual movement. For example, the distance the brake pedal moves before the pistons in the master cylinder are actuated.

Fuse An electrical device which protects a circuit against accidental overload. The typical

fuse contains a soft piece of metal which is calibrated to melt at a predetermined current flow (expressed as amps) and break the Circuit. Fusible link A circuit protection device consisting of a conductor surrounded by heat-resistant insulation. The conductor is smaller than the wire it protects, so it acts as the weakest link in the circuit. Unlike a blown fuse, a failed fusible link must frequently be cut from the wire for replacement.

Glossary of Technical Terms rere1s G Gap

The distance the spark must travel in jumping from the centre electrode to the side electrode in a spark plug. Also refers to the spacing between the points in a contact breaker assembly in a conventional pointstype ignition, or to the distance between the reluctor or rotor and the pickup coil in an electronic ignition.

Ignition timing The moment at which the spark plug fires, usually expressed in the number of crankshaft degrees before the piston reaches the top of its stroke. Inlet manifold A tube or housing with passages through which flows the air-fuel mixture throttle injected cylinder

(carburettor vehicles and vehicles with body injection) or air only (port fuelvehicles) to the port openings in the head.

Jump start Starting the engine of a vehicle with a discharged or weak battery by attaching jump leads from the weak battery to a charged or helper battery.

L Adjusting spark plug gap Gasket Any thin, soft material - usually cork, cardboard, asbestos or soft metal - installed between two metal surfaces to ensure a good seal. For instance, the cylinder head gasket seals the joint between the block and the

cylinder head.

Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) A brake hydraulic system control valve that works like a proportioning valve, but also takes into consideration the amount of weight carried by the rear axle. Locknut A nut used to lock an adjustment nut, or other threaded component, in place. For example, a locknut is employed to keep the adjusting nut on the rocker arm in position. Lockwasher A form of washer designed to prevent an attaching nut from working loose.

M Gasket

Gauge An instrument panel display used to monitor engine conditions. A gauge with a movable pointer on a dial or a fixed scale is an analogue gauge. A gauge with a numerical readout is called a digital gauge.

H A rotating shaft that transmits Halfshaft power from the final drive unit to a drive wheel, usually when referring to a live rear axle. A device designed to Harmonic balancer reduce torsion or twisting vibration in the crankshaft. May be incorporated in the crankshaft pulley. Also known as a vibration damper. Hone An abrasive tool for correcting small irregularities or differences in diameter in an engine cylinder, brake cylinder, etc. es lis uti t tha et pp ta A et pp ta c li au dr Hy ’s ne gi en e th om fr re su es pr c li au dr hy e nc ra ea cl o zer in ta in ma to em st sy on ati ric lub d an ft ha ms ca th bo h wit t ac nt co t an st on (c ion iat var to s st ju ad y ll ca ti ma to Au valve stem). o als s et pp ta c li au dr Hy . gth len em in valve st reduce valve noise.

MacPherson strut A type of front suspension system devised by Earle MacPherson at Ford of England. In its original form, a simple lateral link with the anti-roll bar creates the lower control arm. A long strut - an integral coil spring and shock absorber - is mounted between the body and the steering knuckle. Many modern so-called MacPherson strut systems use a conventional lower A-arm and don’t rely on the anti-roll bar for location. Multimeter An electrical test instrument with

the capability to measure voltage, current and resistance.

this information into an electric current. Also called a Lambda sensor.

=) cross instead of a slot for a corresponding type of screwdriver. Plastigage A thin strip of plastic thread, available in different sizes, used for measuring clearances. For example, a strip of Plastigage is laid across a bearing journal. The parts are assembled and dismantled; the width of the crushed strip indicates the clearance between journal and bearing.

Plastigage Propeller shaft The long hollow tube with universal joints at both ends that carries power from the transmission to the differential on front-engined rear wheel drive vehicles. Proportioning valve A hydraulic control valve which limits the amount of pressure to the rear brakes during panic stops to prevent wheel lock-up.

R Rack-and-pinion steering A steering system with a pinion gear on the end of the steering shaft that mates with a rack (think of a geared wheel opened up and laid flat). When the steering

N Oxides of Nitrogen. A common toxic NOx pollutant emitted by petrol and diesel engines at higher temperatures.

O The unit of electrical resistance. One Ohm volt applied to a resistance of one ohm will produce a current of one amp. An instrument for measuring Ohmmeter electrical resistance. A type of sealing ring made of a O-ring special rubber-like material; in use, the O-ring is compressed sealing action.

engine exhaust manifold, which senses the oxygen content in the exhaust and converts

Phillips screw A type of screw head having a

J

S\Giiaas

Overhead valve (ohv) engine An engine with the valves located in the cylinder head, but with the camshaft located in the engine block. Oxygen sensor A device installed in the

into a groove

to provide the

Overhead cam (ohc) engine An engine with the camshaft(s) located on top of the cylinder head(s).

wheel

is turned,

the

pinion

turns,

moving the rack to the left or right. This movement is transmitted through the track rods to the steering arms at the wheels. Radiator A liquid-to-air heat transfer device designed to reduce the temperature of the coolant in an internal combustion engine cooling system. Refrigerant Any substance used as a heat transfer agent in an air-conditioning system. R-12 has been the principle refrigerant for many years; recently, however, manufacturers a non-CFC using R-134a, have begun substance that is considered less harmful to the ozone in the upper atmosphere. Rocker arm A lever arm that rocks on a shaft or pivots on a stud. In an overhead valve engine, the rocker arm converts the upward movement of the pushrod into a downward movement to open a valve.

reFeie Glossary of Technical Terms In a distributor, the rotating device Rotor inside the cap that connects the centre electrode and the outer terminals as it turns, distributing the high voltage from the coil secondary winding to the proper spark plug. Also, that part of an alternator which rotates inside the stator. Also, the rotating assembly of a turbocharger, including the compressor wheel, shaft and turbine wheel. Runout The amount of wobble (in-and-out movement) of a gear or wheel as it’s rotated. The amount a shaft rotates “out-of-true.” The out-of-round condition of a rotating part.

SSealant

A liquid or paste used to prevent leakage at a joint. Sometimes used in conjunction with a gasket. Sealed beam lamp An older headlight design which integrates the reflector, lens and filaments into a hermetically-sealed one-piece unit. When a filament burns out or the lens cracks, the entire unit is simply replaced. Serpentine drivebelt A single, long, wide accessory drivebelt that’s used on some newer vehicles to drive all the accessories, instead of a series of smaller, shorter belts. Serpentine drivebelts are usually tensioned by an automatic tensioner.

Serpentine drivebelt

Shim Thin spacer, commonly used to adjust the clearance or relative positions between two parts. For example, shims inserted into or under bucket tappets control valve clearances. Clearance is adjusted by changing the thickness of the shim. Slide hammer A special puller that screws into or hooks onto a component such as a shaft or bearing; a heavy sliding handle on the shaft bottoms against the end of the shaft to knock the component free.

A tooth or projection on the Sprocket periphery of a wheel, shaped to engage with a chain or drivebelt. Commonly used to refer to the sprocket wheel itself.

Starter inhibitor switch On vehicles with an that a switch transmission, automatic prevents starting if the vehicle is not in Neutral or Park. Strut See MacPherson strut.

U Universal

joint or U-joint

A double-pivoted

connection for transmitting power from a A e. gl an an h ug ro th ft sha en iv dr a to g vin dri U-joint consists of two Y-shaped yokes and a cross-shaped member called the spider.

T A cylindrical component which Tappet transmits motion from the cam to the valve stem, either directly or via a pushrod and rocker arm. Also called a cam follower. Thermostat A heat-controlled valve that regulates the flow of coolant between the cylinder block and the radiator, so maintaining optimum engine operating temperature. A thermostat is also used in some air cleaners in which the temperature is regulated.

Thrust bearing

Turbocharger A centrifugal device, driven by . air ke ta in e th s se ri su es pr t tha s, se ga exhaust ut tp ou r we po e th se ea cr in to ed us ly al rm No from a given engine displacement, but can also be used primarily to reduce exhaust el es Di t” el mw “U ’s VW on s (a s on si is em engine).

The bearing in the clutch

assembly that is moved in to the release levers by clutch pedal action to disengage the clutch. Also referred to as a release bearing. Timing belt A toothed belt which drives the camshaft. Serious engine damage may result if it breaks in service. Timing chain’ A chain which drives the camshaft. Toe-in The amount the front wheels are closer together at the front than at the rear. On rear wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of toe-in is usually specified to keep the front wheels running parallel on the road by offsetting other forces that tend to spread the wheels apart. Toe-out The amount the front wheels are closer together at the rear than at the front. On front wheel drive vehicles, a slight amount of toe-out is usually specified. Tools For full information on choosing and using tools, refer to the Haynes Automotive Tools Manual. Tracer A stripe of a second colour applied to a wire insulator to distinguish that wire from another one with the same colour insulator. Tune-up A process of accurate and careful adjustments and parts replacement to obtain the best possible engine performance.

V Valve A device through which the flow of liquid, gas, vacuum, or loose material in bulk may be started, stopped, or regulated by a movable part that opens, shuts, or partially obstructs one or more ports or passageways.

A valve is also the movable part of such a device. Valve clearance The clearance between the valve tip (the end of the valve stem) and the rocker arm or tappet. The valve clearance is measured when the valve is closed. Vernier caliper A _ precision measuring instrument that measures inside and outside dimensions. Not quite as accurate as a micrometer, but more convenient. Viscosity The thickness of a liquid or its resistance to flow. Volt A unit for expressing electrical “pressure” in a circuit. One volt that will produce a current of one ampere through a resistance of one ohm.

W Welding Various processes used to join metal items by heating the areas to be joined to a molten state and fusing them together. For more information refer to the Haynes

Automotive Welding Manual. Wiring diagram A drawing portraying the components and wires in a vehicle’s electrical system, using standardised symbols. For more information refer to the Haynes Automotive Electrical and Electronic Systems Manual.

Index rRere17

Note: References throughout this index relate to Chapterepage number

A Accelerator cable automatic transmission models - 6°13 manual gearbox models - 3¢9 Air cleaner and element - 3°6 Air conditioning system - 11°21 Airflow sensor (CIS) - 3¢22 Alternator maintenance and special precautions - 9¢3 overhaul Bosch - 9e4 Motorola - 9°6 removal and refitting - 9¢4 testing - 9¢4 Anti-roll bar - 10¢7 Antifreeze mixture - 2¢2 Automatic transmission - 6¢1 et seq fault finding - 6°14 final drive oil seals - 6°13 general description - 6°12 removal and refitting - 6°12 routine maintenance - 6°12 selector lever cable - 6°13 stall test - 6°13 throttle cable adjustment - 6°13 Auxiliary air regulator (CIS) - 3°28

B Battery - 9°3 Bleeding hydraulic system - 8°14 Bodywork and fittings - 11°1 et seg, 12°10 Bonnet - 1198

cable and lock - 1198 Boot lid and lock (Jetta models) - 11°5 Brake calipers, pistons, and seals removal, inspection and refitting - 85, 8°6,12¢7 retaining bolts modification - 12¢°7

Brake disc - 8¢7 Brake pads - 8e2, 83, 8¢4 Brake pedal - 8°15 Brake pressure regulator - 8°13

Brake shoes adjustment - 8e2 inspection and renewal - 8°7, 8°8 Braking system - 8¢1 et seq, 12¢7

Bulbs renewal - 9°16, 9¢17 type - 9e2 Bumpers - 11°7 Buying spare parts - REFe9

C Cable accelerator automatic transmission models - 6°13 manual gearbox models - 3¢9 bonnet - 11°98 clutch - 5e2 handbrake - 8¢14 selector lever (automatic transmission) 6°13 speedometer - 9°20 Calipers, pistons, and seals Girling - 8°6 Kelsey-Hayes - 8°6, 12°7 Teves - 8°5 Capacities - 0°7 Carburettors adjustments - 3°12, 3¢17, 3°18 general description - 3¢9, 3°14, 3°17 removal and refitting - 3¢11, 3°16, 3°18 Catalytic converter - 3°29 Clutch - 51 et seq adjustment - 52 cable - 5e2

inspection - 5¢4 pedal - 5e3 release mechanism - 5¢5 removal and refitting - 5¢3 CO content injection engines - 3¢28, 12°6

Solex 1B3 - 3°18 Solex 34 PICT 5 - 313 Solex/Zenith 2B2 and 2B5 - 3°17 Coil - 4¢7 Cold start valve (CIS) - 3¢27 Condenser - 4¢4 Connecting rods examination and renovation - 1°14 modifications- 12¢4 refitting - 1°16 removal - 1°11 Contact breaker points checking and adjustment - 4¢3 renewal - 4e4 Continuous Injection System (CIS) - 3°19 adjustments - 3¢28,12¢6

general dismantling - 3e22 running adjustments 3¢28,12¢6 Control pressure regulator (CIS) - 3¢25 Coolant temperature sender unit - 2¢5 Cooling system - 2¢1 et seq Courtesy light switch - 9°15 Crankcase ventilation system - 1°14

Crankshaft examination and renovation - 1°14 oil seals - 1°16

refitting 1°16 removal - 1°11

Cylinder block and crankcase - 1°14 Cylinder head adjustment of valve clearances - 1°18 refitting - 1°19 removal and overhaul - 1¢8 revised bolt tightening procedure 12¢4

ReFeis INdeX D Dimensions - 0¢6 Direction indicators 9¢10 Disc brake - 8¢7 Disc pads

Girling - 83 Kelsey-Hayes - 8e4, 12¢7 Teves 8e2 Distributor overhaul - 4e5

removal and refitting - 4¢5 Door exterior handle 11°14 Door interior trim - 11¢8 Door lock - 11°14 remote control - 11°14 Door rattles - 11¢4 Doors - 11°15

Drivebelt (water pump) - 2°6 Driveplate 1°15 Driveshafts - 7¢1 et seq

dismantling and reassembly 7¢2 removal and refitting - 7°17

E Electrical system - 9e1 et seq, 12¢8

Front suspension wishbone automatic transmission models - 10°7 manual gearbox models - 10°6 Front wheel bearings housing - 10°7 renewal - 10¢7 Front wings - 11 Fuel filter (CIS) - 3°26 Fuel gauge testing - 9°15 sender unit - 3e8 Fuel injection system - 3°19, 12¢6 Fuel injectors - 3¢27 Fuel pump (carburettor models) - 3¢7 Fuel supply (CIS) - 3¢25 Fuel tank modifications - 12¢6

removal, servicing and refitting - 3¢8 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems - 3¢1 et seq, 12¢5 Fuse and relay panel - 9°19 Fuses

general - 9e9, 12¢8 types - 9¢9,12¢4

G

Emission control - 3°29 Engine - 1¢1 et seg, 12¢4, 12¢5 Engine ancillary components

General repair procedures - REFe8 Glossary of technical terms - REFe13

refitting - 1°19 removal 1°7 Engine and gearbox/transmission separating and refitting - 1°6 removal and refitting - 1¢5 Engine dismantling - 1¢6 examination and renovation - 1°14 reassembly - 1°16 Exhaust system catalytic converter - 3e29 checking, renewal and refitting - 3¢30 general - 12°6 Exhaust valve modification - 12¢5

H

FE Facia - 12°10 Fan and thermoswitch - 2¢3 Fault finding - REFe10 automatic transmission - 6°14 braking system - 8°18 clutch - 5¢6 cooling system 2°6 driveshafts - 73 electrical system - 9¢24 engine - 1°20 fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

- 3¢32 ignition system - 4¢8 manual gearbox - 6°14 power assisted steering - 12°10 suspension and steering - 10°18 Fluids - 0°16 Flywheel - 1°15 Front brake pads - 8¢2, 8e3, 8¢4 Front coil springs - 10¢5 Front shock absorbers - 10¢5 Front suspension strut - 10¢3

Handbrake cables - 8¢14 lever - 8¢14 Hazard flasher system - 9°10 Headlamps alignment - 9¢19 removal and refitting - 9°16 Heater controls - 11°19 Heater unit and fan motor - 11¢20 Horn - 9°19 Hydraulic pipes and hoses - 8°13 Hydraulic system, bleeding - 8°14

Identifying leaks - 0¢8 Idle speed adjustment injection engines - 3°28, 12°6 Solex 1B3 - 3°18 Solex 34PICT 5 - 3e¢13 Solex/Zenith 2B2 and 2B5 - 3e17 Ignition switch - 9¢11 Ignition system - 4¢1 et seg, 1296 Ignition timing - 4¢6,12¢6

Inlet and exhaust valve modifications 12¢5

Inlet manifold (CIS) - 3¢27 Instrument panel - 9°12 Intermediate shaft examination and renovation - 1°15

refitting - 1°16 removal - 1¢11 Introduction to the VW Golf, Jetta and Scirocco - 0¢4

J Jacking and towing - 0°10 Jump starting - 0°9

K Knee bar (Jetta models) - 11°16

L Lamp bulbs renewal - 9°16, 9°17

type - 9e2 Lubricants and fluids - 0°16

M Main bearings - 1°14 Maintenance - 0¢12

bodywork and underframe 1191 braking system - 8°2 hinges and locks - 11°4 oil capacities - 0°7 oil types - 0°16 schedule - 0°12 suspension and steering - 10e3 tyres - 0e11 underbonnet component locations - 0°14 upholstery and carpets 11¢2 weekly - 0°12 Major body damage repair - 11°3 Manual gearbox - 6e1 et seq, 12°7 general description - 6¢3 removal and refitting - 6¢3 gearchange lever and linkage - 69 gearshift linkage adjustment - 6e9 modifications - 12¢7 overhaul - 6¢5 Master cylinder, brake overhaul - 8¢11 removal and refitting - 8°10 Mixture control unit (CIS) - 3¢24 MOT test checks - REFe1 Multi-function indicator - 12¢8

Oil capacities - 0e7 filter - 1°13 pump - 1¢15 types - 0°16

p

Pedal brake - 8e¢15 clutch - 5¢3 Pistons examination and renovation - 1¢14

refitting - 1°16 removal - 1¢11

Power-assisted steering - 12¢8 gear tie-rod - 12°10 pump -12e9 pump drivebelt - 12¢8

steering gear - 12¢9

Index ReFe19

R Radiator - 2¢3 Radiator grille - 11¢5 Radios and tape players - 9°23 Rear axle except Pick-up - 10¢11 Pick-up - 10¢12 Rear brake shoes manual adjustment type 8°2, 8°7 self-adjusting lever type 88 self-adjusting wedge type - 8°8 Rear lid (Convertible models) - 11°6 Rear shock absorber except Pick-up -

10¢11 Pick-up10¢12 Rear spring (Pick-up) - 10°12 Rear stub axle (except Pick-up) - 10¢9 Rear wheel bearings adjustment - 10¢8 removal and refitting - 10¢8 Roadside repairs - 0¢8 Roadwheels and tyres - 10°17 Routine Maintenance - 0°12 et seq

Solex/Zenith 2B2 and 2B5 carburettor adjustments - 3¢17 general description - 3¢14 removal, overhaul and refitting - 3°16 Spark plug

general - 4°7 types - 4¢2,1203 Speedometer cable - 9°20 head - 9¢20 Starter motor overhaul - 98 removal and refitting - 9¢7 testing in the car - 9e¢7 Steering column - 10°13 Steering column switches - 9¢10 Steering gear adjustment - 10°17 removal and refitting - 10°16 gaiter - 10°16 Steering lock switch - 9¢11 Steering wheel - 10¢13

Sunroof - 11916 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models - 12¢1 et seq 12¢8 Switches - 9e10, 9°11, 9°12, 9°15

Safety First! - 0e5

- 11°19 unit - 8°11 absorbers - 10¢5, 10°11 ,10e2 1B3 carburettor

adjustments - 3°18 general description - 3°17 removal and refitting - 3°18 revisions - 12¢5 Solex 34 PICT 5 carburettor adjustments and tests - 3e¢12 general description - 3¢9 removal, overhaul and refitting - 3°11

+ Tailgate handle and latch (Pickeup models) - 11°6 strut and lock (Hatchback models) - 1195 wiper motor - 9¢22 Temperature gauge - 9°15 Thermo-pneumatic valve description and testing - 4°7 general - 12¢7

11°18

V Valves clearances - 1°18, 12¢5 modifications - 12¢5 Vehicle identification numbers - REFe9

Suspension and steering - 10¢1 et seq,

Ss Seats Servo Shock Solex

Thermostat - 2¢4 Thermotime switch (CIS) - 3°27 Tie-rod end balljoint - 10°14 Tools and working facilities - REFe5 Top frame assembly (Convertible) Towing - 0°10 Transistorized ignition testing DIS unit - 4¢5 Hall sender - 4¢5 switch unit - 4¢4 Tyres checks - 0¢11 pressures - 10¢2

W Washer jets - 9°22 Water pump - 2¢5

Weights - 0°6 Wheel alignment - 10°16 Wheel bearings - 10°7,10¢°8 Wheel cylinder - 8°10 Window regulator - 11°15 Windows - 11°15 Windscreen wiper mechanism - 9°21 Wings, front - 11°4 Wiper blades and arms - 9°20 Wiring diagrams - 13°1 et seq

t s i L e t e l p m o C e h Haynes Manuals - T Book No.

Title

FIAT

ALFA ROMEO Alfa Romeo Alfasud/Sprint (74 - 88) Alfa Romeo Alfetta (73 - 87)

0292 0531

0207 80, 90 (79 - Oct 86) & Coupe (81 - Nov 88) 0605 80, 90 (Oct 86 - 90) & Coupe (Nov 88 - 90) 1491 0428 100 (Oct 76 - Oct 82) 100 (Oct 82 - 90) & 200 (Feb 84 - Oct 89) 0907

AUSTIN

[Austin Ambassador (82-84)

JEEP

Fiat 126 (73 - 87)

0305

Fiat 127 (71 - 83)

0193

Fiat 500 (57 - 73)

AUDI Audi 80 (72 - Feb 79) Audi Audi Audi Audi

Book No.

Title

Fiat Fiat Fiat Fiat Fiat Fiat

850 (64 - 81) Panda (81 - 95) Punto (94 - 96) Regata (84 - 88) Strada (79 - 88) Tipo (88 - 91)

0038

0793

0479

1625

0871 | [Fiat Uno (83-95) 923

Austin/MG Maestro 1.3 & 1.6 (83 - 95) Austin Maxi (69 - 81)

0922 0052

Austin/MG Metro (80 - May 90)

Austin Montego 1.3 & 1.6 (84 - 94) Austin/MG Montego 2.0 (84 - 95) Mini (59 - 69) Mini (69 - Oct 96) | Austin/Rover 2.0 litre Diesel Engine (86-93)

0527 0646

1857

BEDFORD Bedford CF (69 - 87)

0163

Bedford Rascal (86 - 93)

3015

BL BL Princess & BLMC 18-22 (75 - 82)

0286

BMW

BMW 316, 320 & 320i (4-cyl) (75-Feb 83) BMW 320, 320i, 323i & 325i (6-cyl)

(Oct 77 - Sept 87)

0276

[Fiat X1/9(74-89)0273 FORD [Ford Caprill(& Ill)1.6 & 2.0(74-87) 0283. 1309 Ford Capri (& Ill)2.8& 3.0(74-87) Ford Cortina MkIV (&V)1.6& 2.0(76-83) 0343 FordCortina MkIV (&V)2.3V6(77-83) 0426 Ford Escort (75 - Aug 80) Ford Escort (Sept 80 - Sept 90) Ford Escort (Sept 90 - 97)

0280 0686 1737

|JeepCherokee Petrol(93-96)

LADA 0413 Lada 1200, 1300, 1500 & 1600 (74 - 91) 0 1 6 1 91) (87 Lada Samara LAND ROVER Land Rover 90, 110 & Defender Diesel (83 - 95) 3017 3016 Land Rover Discovery Diesel (89 - 95) 0529 Land Rover Series IIA & Ill Diesel (58-85) Land Rover Series II, IIA & Ill Petrol (58-85) 0314 MAZDA Mazda 323 fwd (Mar 81 - Oct 89) Mazda 626 fwd (May 83 - Sept 87)

Mazda B-1600, B-1800 & B-2000 Pick-up (72 - 88)

0929

0267

MERCEDES-BENZ Mercedes-Benz 190, 190E & 190D Petrol & Diesel (83 - 93)

3450

Mercedes-Benz 200, 240, 300 Diesel (Oct 76 - 85)

0735

z & 280 (123 Series) Mercedes-Ben250 (Oct 76 - 84)

Ford Fiesta (inc. XR2) (76 - Aug 83)

0334

Ford Fiesta (inc. XR2) (Aug 83 - Feb 89)

1030

Ford Fiesta (Feb 89 - Oct 95)

1595

MG

Ford Fiesta Petrol & Diesel (Oct 95 - 97) Ford Granada (Sept 77 - Feb 85)

3397 0481

MGB (62 - 80)

1245

MG Metro (80 - May 90)

0815 | | Ford Granada (Mar 85 - 94)

1943 |

Mercedes-Benz 250 & 280 (68 - 72)

Ford Escort Mk I! Mexico, RS. 1600 &

(75 -80) RS 2000

Book No.

Title

0677

| Mercedes-Benz 124Series(85-Aug 93) 3253 MG Maestro 1.3 & 1.6 (83 - 95)

0111 0922 0718 0265 1067

BMW 3-Series (Apr 91 - 96)

3210

Ford Mondeo 4-cyl (93 - 96)

1923

MG Midget & AH Sprite (58 - 80)

BMW 3-Series (sohc) (83 - 91)

1948

Ford Orion (83 - Sept 90)

1009

MG Montego 2.0 (84 - 95)

BMW 520i & 525e (Oct 81 - June 88) BMW 525, 528 & 528i (73 - Sept 81)

1560 0632

Ford Orion (Sept 90 - 93) Ford Sierra 1.3, 1.6, 1.8 & 2.0 (82 - 93)

1737 0903

BMW 5-Series (sohc) (81 - 91)

1948

Ford Sierra 2.3, 2.8 & 2.9 (82 - 91)

0904

Ford Scorpio (Mar 85 - 94)

1245

(59 - 77)

0240 | | Ford Transit Petrol (Mk 1) (65 - Feb 78)

0377

MITSUBISHI Mitsubishi 1200, 1250 & 1400 (79- May 84) 0600 Mitsubishi Shogun & L200 Pick-Ups (83 - 94) 1944 MORRIS Morris Ital 1.3 (80 - 84)

CITROEN

Ford Transit Petrol (Mk 2) (78 - Jan 86)

0719 1468

Morris Marina 1700 (78 - 80) Morris Marina 1.8 (71 - 78)

3019

Morris Minor 1000 (56 - 71)

BMW 1500, 1502, 1600, 1602, 2000 & 2002

Citroen 2CV, Ami & Dyane (67 - 90) Citroen AX Petrol & Diesel (87 - 94)

0196 3014

Ford Transit Petrol (Mk 3) (Feb 86 - 89) Ford Transit Diesel (Feb 86 - 95)

Citroen BX (83 - 94) Citroen CX (75 - 88)

0908 0528

Ford 1.6 & 1.8 litre Diesel Engine (84-96) 1172 Ford 2.1, 2.3 & 2.5 litre Diesel Engine (77 - 90) 1606

Citroen Visa (79 - 88)

NISSAN (See also Datsun) Nissan Bluebird 160B & 180B rwd

Te

FREIGHT ROVER

Citroen Xantia Petrol & Diesel (93 - Oct 95) Citroen XM Petrol & Diesel (89 - 97)

3082

Freight Rover Sherpa (74 - 87) HILLMAN

0463

Citroen ZX Diesel (91 - 93) Citroen ZX Petrol (91 - 94) Citroen 1.7 & 1.9 litre Diesel Engine (84-96) COLT Colt 1200, 1250 & 1400 (79 - May 84)

1922 1881 1379

Hillman Avenger (70 - 82) HONDA Honda Accord (76 - Feb 84) Honda Accord (Feb 84 - Oct 85) an Civic (Feb 84 - Oct 87) Honda Civic (Nov 91 - 96) HYUNDAI Hyundai Pony (85 - 94)

0037

Nissan Cherry (N12) (Sept 82 - 86) Nissan Micra (K10) (83 - Jan 93)

0351

Nissan Micra (98 - 96)

1177 1226 3199

Nissan Primera (90 - Oct 96)

3451

0600

DAIMLER Daimler Sovereign (68 - Oct 86) Daimler Double Six (72 - 88)

0242 0478

0526 0074

(May 80 - May 84)

Nissan Bluebird fwd (May 84 - Mar 86)

|Nissan Bluebird (T12 & T72) (Mar 86 - 90)

Nissan Stanza (82 - 86)

Nissan Sunny (B11) (May 82 - Oct 86) Nissan Sunny (Oct 86 - Mar 91)

0957 1223 1473 1031

0824 | 0895 1378

Nissan Sunny (Apr 91 - 95) OPEL

JAGUAR

DATSUN (see also Nissan) Datsun 120Y (73 - Aug 78)

0228

Jaguar E Type (61 - 72)

0140

Opel Ascona & Manta (B Series) (Sept 75 - 88) 0316

Datsun 1300, 1400 & 1600 (69 - Aug 72)

0123

Jaguar Mk! & Il, 240 & 340 (55 - 69)

0098

Opel Ascona (81 - 88)

Datsun Cherry (71 - 76) Datsun Pick-up (75 - 78)

0195 0277

Jaguar XJ6, XJ & Sovereign (68 - Oct 86) Jaguar XJ6 & Sovereign (Oct 86 - Sept 94)

0242 3261

Opel Astra (Oct 91 - 96) Opel Corsa (83 - Mar 93)

Datsun Sunny (Aug 78 - May 82)

0525

0478

Opel Corsa (Mar 93 - 94)

| Datsun Violet (78 - 82)

0430

Le XJ12, XJS & Sovereign (72 - 88)

| |Opel Kadett (Nov 79 - Oct 84)

3215

Title

Opel Kadett (Oct 84 - Oct 91) Opel Omega & Senator (86 - 94) Opel Rekord (Feb 78 - Oct 86) Opel Vectra (88 - Oct 95) PEUGEOT Peugeot 106 Petrol & Diesel (91 - June 96) Peugeot 205 (83 - 95) Peugeot 305 (78 - 89) Peugeot 306 Petrol & Diesel (93 - 95) Peugeot 309 (86 - 93) Peugeot 405 Petrol (88 - 96) Peugeot 405 Diesel (88 - 96) Peugeot 406 Petrol & Diesel (96 - 97) Peugeot 505 (79 - 89) Peugeot 1.7 & 1.9 litre Diesel Engines (82 - 96) Peugeot 2.0, 2.1, 2.3 & 2.5 litre

Diesel Engines (74 - 90)

3196

SEAT SIMCA

Simca 1100 & 1204 (67 - 79) Simca 1301 & 1501 (63 - 76)

1882 0932

0088 0199

SKODA Skoda Estelle 105, 120, 130 & 136 (77 - 89)

Skoda Favorit (89 - 92)

SUBARU Subaru 1600 & 1800 (Nov 79 - 90) SUZUKI Suzuki SJ Series, Samurai & Vitara (82-97) Suzuki Supercarry (86 - Oct 94) TALBOT Talbot Alpine, Solara, Minx & Rapier (75 - 86) Talbot Horizon (78 - 86)

3198 3394 0762 0950

0604 1801 0995

1942 3015

0397

Toyota Celica (Feb 82 - Sept 85) Toyota Corolla (fwd) (Sept 83 - Sept 87)

3255

Toyota Corolla (rwd) (80 - 85) Toyota Corolla (Sept 87 - 92) Toyota Corolla (Aug 92 - 97)

0606

:

Title

VW VW VW VW VW VW

Book No.

Beetle 1303, 1303S & GT (72 - 75) Golf Mk 1 1.1 & 1.3 (74-Feb 84) Golf Mk 1 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 (74 - 85) Golf Mk 1 Diesel (78 - Feb 84) Golf Mk 2 (Mar 84 - Feb 92) Golf Mk 3 Petrol & Diesel (Feb 92-96)

VW VW VW VW VW VW VW

Jetta Mk 1 1.1 & 1.3 (80 - June 84) Jetta Mk 1 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 (80 - June 84) Jetta Mk 1 Diesel (81 - June 84) Jetta Mk 2 (July 84 - 92) LT vans & light trucks (76 - 87) Passat (Sept 81 - May 88) Passat (May 88 - 91) VW Polo & Derby (76 - Jan 82)

0159 0716 0726 0451 1081 3097

0726 0451 1081 0637 0814 1647

0337

VW Polo (82 - Oct 90)

0473

VW Polo (Nov 90 - Aug 94)

0335 0813 3245

0823 | | VW Santana (Sept 82 - 85)

0814

TOYOTA Toyota Carina E (May 92 - 97)

0264

Range Rover V8 (70 - Oct 92)

1024 0683 1683 3259

VW Scirocco Mk 1 1.5, 1.6 & 1.8 (74-82) VW Scirocco (82 - 90) VW Transporter 1600 (68 - 79)

0726 1224 0082

VW Transporter 1700, 1800 & 2000 (72-79)

0226

VW Transporter with air-cooled engine (79 - 82) 0638 VW Transporter (82 - 90)

3452

VW Vento Petrol & Diesel (Feb 92 - 96)

3097

VOLVO

Toyota Hi-Ace & Hi-Lux (69 - Oct 83)

Toyota Starlet (78 - Jan 85)

Volvo 66 & 343, Daf 55 & 66 (68 - 79)

0293

TRIUMPH

Volvo 142, 144 & 145 (66 - 74)

0129

0141

Triumph Acclaim (81 - 84)

Volvo 240 Series (74 - 93)

0270

Renault 5 (Feb 85 - 96) Renault 9 & 11 (82 - 89)

0822

Triumph Herald (59 - 71) |Triumph Spitfire (62 - 81)

Volvo 262, 264 & 260/265 (75 - 85) Volvo 340, 343, 345 & 360 (76 - 91)

0400 0715

Renault 12 (70 - 80)

0097

|Triumph Stag (70 - 78)

Volvo 440, 460 & 480 (87 - 92)

1691

Renault 15 & 17 (72 - 79)

0763

Triumph TR7 (75 - 82)

Volvo 740 & 760 (82 - 91)

1258

Renault 18 (79 - 86)

0598

Volvo 850 (92 - 96)

3260

Renault 19 Petrol (89 - 94)

1646

Vauxhall Astra (80 - Oct 84)

0635

Volvo 940 (90 - 96)

3249

Renault 19 Diesel (89 - 95) Renault 21 (86 - 94) Renault 25 (84 - 92)

1946 1397 1228

Vauxhall Astra & Belmont (Oct 84 - Oct 91) Vauxhall Astra (Oct 91 - 96) Vauxhall Carlton (Oct 78 - Oct 86)

1136 1832 0480

YUGO/ZASTAVA Yugo/Zastava (81 - 90)

1453

Renault Clio Petrol (91 - 93)

1853

Vauxhall Carlton (Nov 86 - 94)

1469

TECH BOOKS

RENAULT Renault 5 (72 - Feb 85)

0010 0113

Renault Clio Diesel (91 - June 96) Renault Espace (85 - 96)

3031 | | Vauxhall Cavalier 1300 (77 - July 81) 3197 | | Vauxhall Cavalier 1600, 1900 & 2000

0461

Renault Fuego (80 - 86)

0764 | | (75- July 81)

0315

Renault Laguna (94 - 96) Renault Mégane Petrol & Diesel (96 - 97) Rover 111 & 114 ((95-

) Rover 213 & 216 (84 - 89)

Vauxhall Cavalier (81 - Oct 88) Vauxhall Cavalier (Oct 88 - Oct 95)

0812 1570

Vauxhall Chevette (75 - 84) Vauxhall Corsa (93 - 97)

0285 1985

0909 3015

1380

Vauxhall Nova (83 - 93) Vauxhall Rascal (86 - 93) Vauxhall Senator (Sept 87 - 94) Vauxhall Vectra Petrol & Diesel (95 - 98) Vauxhall Viva HB Series (ohv) (66 - 70)

Rover 2000, 2300 & 2600 (77 - 87)

0468

Vauxhall Viva & Firenza (ohc) (68 - 73)

0093

Rover 3500 (76 - 87) Rover Metro (May 90 - 94)

0365

Vauxhall/Opel 1.5, 1.6 & 1.7 litre

Rover 214 & 414 (89 - 96) Rover 216 & 416 (89 - 96) Rover 618, 620 & 623 (93 - 97) Rover 820, 825 & 827 (86 - 95)

Saab 90, 99 & 900 (79 - Oct 93)

|

Book No.

1607 | | Talbot Samba (82 - 86)

PORSCHE Porsche 911 (65 - 85) Porsche 924 & 924 Turbo (76 - 85) PROTON Proton (89 - 97) RANGE ROVER RELIANT

Title

Book No.

Saab 9000 (4-cyl) (85 - 95)

1116 1689 1830 3257

1469 3396

0026 |

Diesel Engines (82 - 96) VW Beetle 1200 (54 - 77)

1686 |

|

VW Beetle 1300 & 1500 (65 - 75)

VW Beetle 1302 & 1302S (70 - 72)

0039

0110 |

Automotive Engine Management and Fuel Injection Systems Manual Automotive Tools Manual Automotive Welding Manual In-Car Entertainment Manual (3rd Edition)

CAR BOOKS Automotive Fuel Injection Systems Car Bodywork Repair Manual Caravan Manual (2nd Edition) Haynes Technical Data Book (89 - 98) How to Keep Your Car Alive Japanese Vehicle Carburetors Small Engine Repair Manual SU Carburettors Weber Carburettors (to 79)

3344

3052 3053 3363

9755 9864 9894 1998 9868 1786 1755 0299 0393 CL05.01/98

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Fig.9.

Y

3 Gh Citingcele:ieee “Lopad 7 and drive out theretaining pins_T

As thepiston is depressed. the fluid will nse in the master

TEP ALTMe MEMase oehe MeL cylinder reservor, Anticipate of the dise pads. If it isbelaw thé specified thisbyremoving some fluid minimiim, renew the pads asanaxleset(four with aclean syringe. pads),

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Inside this Manual

if

Volkswagen Golf, Jetta & Scirocco ‘Mk 1’ models (including most mechanical features of Convertible) with 1.5 litre (1457cc & 1471cc), 1.6 litre (1588cc) & 1.8 litre (1781cc) petrol engines

For coverage of My and 1.3 litre ‘Mk 1’ petrol models, see manual no. 0716 Does NOT cover Diesel engine models or Caddy Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ England

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SBN 1 85960 279 7

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