Haynes Saab 900 Automotive Repair Manual [84010] 1850105677, 9781850105671

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a

(Werry Davey) @HAYNES 1983

Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2023 with funding from Kahle/Austin Foundation

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629.287 SAAB Legg, A. K. Saab automotive repair

o 7

manual, 1979 thru 213117 1979-88

VE sep 200s

aab

ulomotive

veer

Rees,

epair anual A

K Legg T Eng (CEI), AMIMI

Models covered Saab 900 Sedan and Hatchback; 2.0 liter Covers

Turbo and 16-valve models

ISBN 1 85010 567 7 ©

Haynes North America, Inc.

1981, 1986, 1989

With permission from J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electrical or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in the USA

(9Z6 - 84010) (980)

LE aN

SSe Ly

A

P

ABCDE

*

A

AwZ\ i AUTOMOTIVE PARTS rly &

Aeeacieies MEMBER Haynes Publishing Group Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England ‘

Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Library of Congress

Catalog card number

88-83192

Acknowledgements _ Thanks are due to the Champion Sparking Plug Company Limited who supplied the illustrations showing the sparking plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of Saab (Great Britain)

_ Limited, and are used with their permission. Special thanks are also

due to Saab (Great Britain) Limited and Saab-Scania of Sweden for the supply of technical information, to Sykes-Pickavant who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who assisted in the production of this Manual.

a

About this manual [ts aim *

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a

garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components

so that their layout can be understood. Then

the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

/ts arrangement The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters, logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers

each covering a each divided into the Sections into following on from

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as ~ a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity. ; Whilst every care is taken to ensure that the information iin this manual is correct, no liability can be accepted by the authors publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

Introduction

to the Saab 900, 99 and 90

The Saab 900 was first introduced in early 1979 and was similar to the existing 99 Combi Coupe, but with a longer more sloping bonnet,

front

spoiler

and

deeper

windscreen.

The

body

is of rigid

the front of the car, but this facilitates removal of the clutch without

having to remove either the engine or gearbox. Being of an up market design, the car incorporates many extras to

construction employing safety beams in the doors and a reinforced

add to comfort and driveability.

roof.

The Saab 90 replaced the 99 in the UK in 1984. Details of this vehicle are explained in the introduction to the supplementary chapter at the end of this manual.

The in-line mounted engine is located over the gearbox or automatic transmission providing drive to the front wheels. Unlike the more conventional layout, the engine is positioned with the flywheel at

Contents Page Acknowledgements

y

About this manual

2

hag

Introduction to the Saab 900, 99 and 90

2

General Dimensions, weights and capacities

6

Use of English

Ie

Buying spare wees and vehicle identification numbers

8

Tools and working facilities

9

General repair procedures

T2ee

Jacking and towing

13

Recommended

14

lubricants and fluids

Safety first!

15

Routine maintenance

;

Fault diagnosis

22

Chapter 1 Engine Chapter 2 Cooling system Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

Chapter 4 Ignition system Chapter 5 Clutch Chapter 6 Manual gearbox and final drive Chapter 7 Automatic transmission and final drive

Oe a

Chapter 8 Driveshaft Chapter 9 Braking system Chapter 10 Electrical system Chapter 11 Suspension and steering

Chapter 12 Bodywork and fittings

Chapter 13 Supplement: Conversion factors Index

16

Revisions and information on later models

5-door Turbo 900 Saab

Gees66 15

400P-Z

General dimensions, weights and capacities Dimensions Overall

in (mm)

length — 99 models:

Sal OOMe Se AAV LOT O's cecvease scenerenencstsnttan terinitoreqinenvattchaenaneoventevarsnihgneret vacate SAO OaTO, a7. OM iceeresnatoceaeeanctioneeedevcartatraviaareratne meecsbhamebattiboneleced

174.01 in (4420 mm) 176.26 in (4477 mm)

ETAT HG OUI BOA. fe isco: cues es toeaceeat cnalurstRbirith «sib eis,stivcatasemnlcaaiasaememebapes

178.35 in (4530 mm)

Overall

length — 900 models:

Salomneand

COMmb) \COUPCiv:cimiasisedrrertereletNnionrpscenianadtarawavesrsteerezers

Overall width: PIM NUCHG ES eae ae dN Saadeh teeter vlten erative tat mR Ioshor caencaued reac esvuade concen

186.57 in (4739 mm)

etay

66.54 in (1690 mm)

BYEOIN VHGA(Gea a okLacin ceisestincocsvdaee Mec oNG Sra eae Cea aaen remeRse Ho ce reat casdedee SYOXG) [nveta (=|ke eek ae aie RaRPORT th OER: Sa PERE Dn, yey i crt none eee tre he Track — 99 models:

56.69 in (1440 mm) 55.91 in (1420 mm) Front

Rear

55.12 in (1400 mm)

56.30 in (1430 mm)

55.51 in (1410 mm) 55.91 in (1420 mm) or 56.30 in (1430 mm)

56.69 in (1440 mm) 56.30 in (1430 mm) or 56.69 in (1440 mm)

Overall height (at curb weight):

POM MUTA

ORO =(OGD mccaierrrstestacetgreyttddvsneceatabisttecar?scersestar taserronncs ters?

murborana O82 ‘on! MOdElS .Mreccasctaccr tapseuccy dersecoravedecacetteeeusauteaceenls fit 3es eee) ATV COLONSiu5 ai voce evo teareg sealed eeeeethteticataeeedtscn book saeihcaate cack ete at ons Wheelbase — 99 models: Bere HOSA AIMIOG CIS .icsss sion veces nace aerate eee er Rae ees pean es debra eat eel eene’ ESR rel eines to] aerate eer rn e Ore errrery rece coe day a Enea ane, Wheelbase — 900 models: Pre-1982 MIOCGIS csi ieee ele een Peee ee oncs taco aet Ae RE CMD MTTOGE Sinsstvncecsscesiasteasattrecaabe aietceccanteeapeesWereracetctsnctead aaiausaceccee SUH Ie — 99) MOCEIS irre. cuttetes toreteasseasinah steteanaseerartiaysvncntepetivecestsncere Turning circle — 900 models: Fetetet te) UABEURIOCIGIS iiocnreatcscepcnuctomnso ats teoedeten sae saen aeueM Ohhdeta ons Meare ascents ES eSEMON MMO COIS, vis, vesssvacevavctesttvatens crvodne sacscvvenrsestte tices vette seni gana teataees esate

97.36 97.05

in (2473 mm) in (2465 mm)

99.41 in (2525 mm) 99.09 in (2517 mm) 208.66 in (5300 mm) 208.66 220.47

:

in (5300 mm) in (56600 mm)

Weights Ib (kg) 99 models:

PSE AI OO Ativanysseacicodvscsdeesvessycotees asus vueWacevooslagttmmrm tere teeterere ates Sovvs+30s 7) ae NTI COUPE sassnecepensateinesavuedartsdarsacttbes pete oPepayeR neaatetaecuccnermeeny store SOMO OOP as assitees ssindsved tostosnpteves en vcass'avsnde¥ ete RCE enaeeE aE atcac fete ens Recess ROMS Al OO Manecesstsivevnndusstasachearricnsgatea deleteey trticsLee eee eas eee ee. A Deu OACIS:.asss—ssssziarvtensncgutsvastoriss tesscvonnetiee a Meptranaea tee meu een reraoe 900

2645 2711 2545 2618 2574

to to to to to

2755 2910 2733 2706 2651

Ib Ib Ib lb Ib

(1200 (1230 (1200 (1190 (1170

to to to to to

1250 1320 1240 1230 1205

kg) kg) kg) kg) kg)

models:

1979 Combi [OrolU |OX:breve etetiem PEN ie Minn pn Sie 78 Sets UY ORS LR Cea Hie Be COTTON CLIP OVesib nna gr ueuediseia Man Ea asad usher Pe cts Seeman ce ded dia Rta eee HS SUITING CG Si.cfreseicselyvacds (tet icts Geer races vec ude Sc tedaes atin tesacian tenes IAAT IAHR

TMMON ACK LOC \erastvs cectcacastetutet sues ttetuasterc eats vctvacteoaternaiemtteteecnated LG CVV GIGI tisisernavecuneTssvatae ceomessesccaareainwae mune cel emeancemmtnares

2650 to 2820 Ib (1200 to 1280 kg) 2610 to 2860 Ib (1185'to 1295 kg) 2687 to 2974 lb (1220 to 1350 kg) 220 Ib (100 kg) 3300 Ib (1500 kg)

Capacities Seem MUM TCIUCILIG! TIILOT) Xassiorslsceueactecaecae rteatessaraccacaeteaesesucseteeeee acters Cooling system (including heater):

MITT GLESLS seta any aavattesiteon treat tied ccauedbackbows Gisaatosomca@eeeeeduph eae SRT ae PINOUT OCU ca cess sisedsutonavedtiese ars cemayaathrioress actedsot deen ste pateres PRUETT

EE ene

6.2 Imp pt; 3.7 US qt; 3.5 litre

14.1 Imp pt; 8.5 US qt; 8.0 litre 17.6 Imp pt; 10.6 US qt; 10.0 litre

Fuel tank — 99 models:

Be te O LEIMOC OS) jst ecerakcvgnathesssWiadnsucceth scorns eats outean Meee Toe ee Pee mT OG GIG in,aruda carats stonsasuacossantse ain tenroseranrenean atre CURE ee

12.1 Imp gal; 58.1 US qt; 55.0 litre 12.8 Imp gal; 61.3 US qt; 58.0 litre

Fuel tank — 900 models:

MEHR ESV OCIS: spov ts 2.1 orl is ndscsohcssenss ects Rhee eo

eR

Me MME MITUOGIC!S:ctscrassav nes ses aciced Gaveceaddiscataesaapousterrececac teat emer moe Manual gearbox: 4-speed....... sch scarce Eo pe AED AePRCER CoERCERDOUIMES RoPERE AT EM PEPER Pe cee

EC eRe ret

5-speed Bishi evsssevansonsunsorsnssonnnarensasscsnanvecsassessnsvensunsensatensnusecaaresenasatsnscseunacts

12.1 Imp gal; 58.1 US qt; 55.0 litre 13.9 Imp gal; 66.6 US qt; 63.0 litre y 4.4 Imp pt; 2.6 US qt; 2.5 litre

5.3 Imp pt; 3.2 US qt; 3.0 litre

Automatic transmission:

Transmission NUL CUEMess toys trots se chasese Nasty coesecanete Reig eolae ett EE FT Evel MG MI OMOUM eres LY DON SO Phassbd tints dececc vsven youn ase cece eo OS Raa ean eee FU CMeM Olle CYICG.7 Stastny acsctvoa uvaattecte te Dectceatre eee ell

14.1 Imp pt; 8.5 US qt; 8.0 litre 2.2 Imp pt; 1.3 US qt; 1.25 litre 2.5 Imp pt; 1.5 US qt; 1.4 litre

Use of English As this book has been written in England, it uses the appropriate English component names, phrases, and spelling. Some of these differ from those used in America. Normally, these cause no difficulty, but to make sure, a glossary is printed below. In ordering spare parts remember the parts list may use some of these words:

English

American

English

American

Accelerator Aerial Anti-roll bar Big-end bearing Bonnet (engine cover) Boot (luggage compartment) Bulkhead Bush Cam follower or tappet Carburettor Catch Choke/venturi Circlip Clearance Crownwheel Damper Disc (brake) ‘Distance piece Drop arm Drop head coupe Dynamo

Gas pedal Antenna

Locks Methylated spirit

Latches Denatured alcohol

Stabiliser or sway bar Rod bearing

Motorway Number plate

Hood Trunk Firewall Bushing Valve lifter or tappet

Paraffin Petrol Petrol tank ‘Pinking’ Prise (force apart)

Carburetor Latch

Barrel Snap-ring Lash Ring gear (of differential) Shock absorber, shock Rotor/disk Spacer Pitman arm Convertible Generator (DC)

Propeller shaft Quarterlight Retread © Reverse Rocker cover Saloon Seized Sidelight Silencer Sill panel (beneath doors) Small end, little end Spanner

Freeway, turnpike etc License plate Kerosene Gasoline (gas) Gas tank ‘Pinging’ Pry Driveshaft Quarter window Recap Back-up Valve cover Sedan Frozen Parking light Muffler Rocker panel Piston pin or wrist pin Wrench

Earth (electrical)

Ground

Split cotter (for valve spring cap)

Lock (for valve spring retainer)

Engineer's blue Estate car Exhaust manifold Fault finding/diagnosis Float chamber Free-play Freewheel Gearbox

Prussian blue Station wagon Header Troubleshooting Float bowl Lash Coast Transmission

Split pin Steering arm Sump Swarf Tab washer Tappet Thrust bearing Top gear

Cotter pin Spindle arm Oil pan Metal chips or debris Tang or lock Valve lifter Throw-out bearing High

Gearchange Grub screw

Shift Setscrew, Allen screw

Torch Trackrod (of steering)

Flashlight Tie-rod (or connecting rod)

Gudgeon

Piston pin or wrist pin

Trailing shoe (of brake)

Secondary shoe

Halfshaft Handbrake

pin

Axleshaft Parking brake

Transmission Tyre

Whole drive line Tire

Hood

Soft top

Van

Panel wagon/van

Hot spot Indicator Interior light

Heat riser Turn signal Dome lamp

Vice Wheel nut Windscreen

Vise Lug nut Windshield

Layshaft (of gearbox) Leading shoe (of brake)

Countershaft

Wing/mudguard

Fender

Primary shoe

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers Buying spare parts Replacement parts are available from many sources, which generally fall into one of two categories — authorized dealer parts departments and independent retail auto parts stores. Our advice concerning these parts is as follows: Retail auto parts stores: Good auto parts stores will stock frequently needed components which wear out relatively fast, such as clutch components, exhaust systems, brake parts, tune-up parts, etc. These stores often supply new or reconditioned parts on an exchange basis, which can save a considerable amount of money. Discount auto parts stores are often very good places to buy materials and parts needed for general vehicle maintenance such as oil, grease, filters, spark plugs, belts, touch-up paint, bulbs, etc. They also usually sell tools and general accessories, have convenient hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Authorized dealer parts department: This is the best source for parts which are unique to the vehicle and not generally available elsewhere (such as major engine parts, transmission parts, trim pieces, etc.). Warranty information: \f the vehicle is still covered under warranty, be sure that any replacement parts purchased — regardless of the source — do not invalidate the warranty! To be sure of obtaining the correct parts, have engine and chassis numbers available and, if possible, take the old parts along for positive identification. x

The engine numberis located on the front left side of the cylinder block (photo). The chassis numberis located on top of the right side front wheel arch except on early 99 models where it is located on the left side (photo). It is also punched into the body in the luggage compartment or beneath the rear seat cushion. The gearbox number is located on top of the primary gear casing (photo). The body and trim color codes are either on the right or left side of the engine compartment.

Vehicle identification numbers Modifications are a continuing and unpublicized process in vehicle manufacture quite apart from major model changes. Spare parts manuals and lists are compiled upon a numerical basis, individual vehicle numbers being essential to correct identification of the component required.

Chassis number plate

Gearbox number (as seen from front of car)

eet =—

Tools and working facilities Introduction

Maintenance

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doingit-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled

three lists of tools under the following minor

repair,

Repair

and overhaul,

and

headings: Maintenance Specia/l. The

newcomer

and to

practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit Can be built-up’ into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and eee Se ES overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put. It is obviously not possible to cover the subject of tools fully here. For those who wish to learn more about tools and their use there is a book entitled How to Choose and Use Car Tools available from the

publishers of this manual.

Carburettor adjusting tool

and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner.

Combination

spanners

- 10, 17, 12, 13, 14

& 17 mm

Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Gearbox/final drive drain plug key Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple Sienoe!

Screwdriver - 4 in long x + in dia (flat blade) Screwdriver - 4 in long x ¢ in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge Oil can ; Fine emery cloth (1 sheet) Wire brush (small)

Funnel (medium size) Carburettor adjusting tool (photo)

Tool kit provided with the car

«

Tools and working facilities 10 UNA B 5 nm CROISSANTS ee Repair and overhaul tool kit

Buying tools

These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in

For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. Remember, you don’t have to buy the most expensive items on the shelf, but it is always advisable to steer clear of the very cheap tools.

the Maintenance

and

minor

repair \ist. Included

in this list is a

comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various drives are included in the set. We recommend the ¢ in square-drive type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list.

10 inch (for use with sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch

-

6 in long x 2 in long x 14 in long 3 in long x

3 in dia (flat blade) 3 in square (flat blade) x 4 in dia (cross blade) % in dia (electricians)

Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Working facilities

Cold chisel - + inch

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat. workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100 mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least & in

Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Steel rule/straight-edge Allen keys

Selection of files Wire brush (large) Axle-stands

Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

(8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights.

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing

together with friends (or joining a motorists’

or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely

available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the manufacturer

specifically for its dealer network. You will find

occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text

of this manual. without

Generally,

the vehicle

sometimes,

an alternative

manufacturers’

special

Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible.

club) to make a joint

purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage

vehicle

Care and maintenance of too/s

wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or a file will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver

purchase.

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece,

There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, so ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a

method

of doing the job

tool is given.

However,

there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the

case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250

4 in AF

0.276

7mm

Oris 0.315 0.344

& in AF 8 mm pin AF; ¢ in Whitworth

0.354

9mm

Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438

2 in AF 10 mm 11 mm % in AF

Universal hub/bearing puller

0.445

% in Whitworth; } in BSF

Impact screwdriver

0.472 0.500

12 mm + in AF

to entrust the work to a franchised garage.

Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light Dwell angle meter/tachometer Universal electrical multi-meter

0.512

13 mm

0.525

4 in Whitworth; & in BSF

Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack

0.591

15. mm

0.600 0.625 0.630

% in Whitworth; 2 in BSF 2 in AF 16 mm

Light with extension lead

0.551

14 mm

0.563

2 in AF

~

Jaw gap (in)

19 mm 3 in AF # in AF

:

% in Whitworth; + in BSF

22 mm $ in AF _ 4 in Whitworth; % in BSF

® in AF

24 mm 1 in AF = in Whitworth; = in BSF 26 mm 14 in AF; 27 mm

$ in Whitworth; }#! in BSF 12 in AF 30 mm 2 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF.

14 in AF

1.260 1.300 1.313 1.390 1.417 1.438 1.480 1.500 1.575 1.614 1625 1.670 1.688 leteh I 1.813 1.860 1.875 1.969 2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

Spanner size 382mm

-

2 in Whitworth; % in BSF

13 in AF 8 in Whitworth; #2 in BSF 36 mm 1% in AF

Z in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 1d in AF 40 mm; #2 in Whitworth 41 mm 12 in AF 1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF SRA Feng 46 mm

13 in AF

14 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF

1Z in AF

50 mm 2 in AF 14 in Whitworth; 13 in BSF 55 mm 60 mm

General

repair procedures

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car

or

its components,

procedures operation

and

it is necessary

instructions.

This

will

to

observe

assist

the

following

in carrying

out

the

efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets Where a gasket is used between the mating faces of two components, ensure that it is renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of jointing compound if this is being used unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align a split pin hole unless stated in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting,

slacken

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from nicks

or grooves.

If the

original

sealing

cannot be restored, the component

of a turn,

and

then

Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing in the course of tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing. Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are

used to lock a critical component such as a big-end bearing retaining nut or bolt.

which

are folded

over to retain a nut or bolt should

surface

of the

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sez!ed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered,

to the shoulder.

Self-locking nuts can be reused in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt or stud thread. Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole.

should be renewed.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease.

down

or bolt by a quarter

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

Locktabs

scratches,

nut

always be renewed.

Oil seals

component

the

retighten to the specified setting.

drive the seal

If the seal housing is unshouldered,

the seal

should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face.

Screw threads and fastenings Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,

Special tools Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily available alternatives to the manufacturer's special tools are described, and are shown in use. In

some instances, where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer's tool and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair operation. Unless you are highly skilled and have a thorough understanding of the procedure described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved. 1

va

Jacking and towing The jack supplied with the car tool kit should only be used for changing roadwheels and must always be engaged with the recesses located on the sills (photos). When using a trolley jack the front of the car can be raised beneath the engine compartment crossmember, and the rear raised beneath the reinforced bracket immediately behind the fuel tank. Towing eyes are provided at the front and rear of the car (photos). P

The ignition key must be inserted and neutral selected. On automatic transmission models the transmission must contain the correct quantity of fluid, the towing speed must not exceed 25 mph (40 kph), and the towing distance must not exceed 25 miles (40 km). For longer distances the front of the car must be lifted clear of the ground. Push or tow starting is not possible on cars fitted with automatic transmission.

{

Front towing eye

Alternative front towing eye on engine crossmember

Rear towing eye

14

Recommended Component or system

NY WwW & a =

~N

lubricants

and fluids

Lubricant type or specification

Brake hydraulic system

DOT 4 or SAE J1703

Clutch hydraulic system

DOT 4 or SAE J1703

Engine

SAE

Manual transmission Automatic transmission

Final drive (automatic transmission)

SAE 10W/30 or 10W/40 Automatic transmission fluid SAE EP 80

Carburettor (damper oil)

Automatic

Distributor: Breaker cam Felt

Bosch Ft1 v 4 grease Engine oil

Throttle control Bonnet

10W/30,.10W/40

transmission

_ Engine oil

hinges

Engine oil

Pedals

Engine oil

Handbrake

linkage

Chassis grease

Door hinges

Engine oil

Door locks

Chassis grease

Luggage Power

compartment

steering

Rear wheel

hubs

Front wheel bearings

lock

Thin penetrating oil

Saginaw

hydraulic fluid

Special chassis grease Molybdenum

paste

or 5W/30

fluid

Safety first! Regardless of how enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not jeopardized. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe certain simple safety precautions. The possibility of an accident will always exist, and the following points should not be considered a comprehensive list of all dangers. Rather, they are intended to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON’Ts DON'T rely on a jack when working under the vehicle. Always use approved jackstands to support the weight of the vehicle and place them under the recommended

lift or support points.

DON'T attempt to loosen extremely tight fasteners (i.e. wheel lug nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack — it may fall. DON'T start the engine without first making sure that the transmission is in Neutral (or Park where applicable) and the parking brake is set. DON'T remove the radiator cap from a hot cooling system — let it cool or cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually. DON’T attempt to drain the engine oil until you are sure it has cooled to the point that it will not burn you. DON'T touch any part of the engine or exhaust system until it has cooled sufficiently to avoid burns. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as gasoline, antifreeze and brake fluid by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON’T inhale brake lining dust — it is potentially hazardous (see Asbestos below) DON’T allow spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up before someone slips on it. DON’T use loose fitting wrenches or other tools which may slip and Cause injury. DON’T push on wrenches when loosening or tightening nuts or bolts. Always try to pull the wrench toward you. If the situation calls for pushing the wrench away, push with an open hand to avoid scraped

knuckles if the wrench should slip. DON’T attempt to lift a heavy component alone — get someone to help you. DON’T rush or take unsafe shortcuts to finish a job. DON'T allow children or animals in or around the vehicle while you are working on it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as a drill, sander, bench grinder, etc. and when working under a vehicle. DO keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving parts.

DO make sure that any hoist used has a safe working adequate for the job.

é

load rating

DO get someone to check on you periodically when working alone on

a vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and make sure that everything

is correctly assembled and tightened. DO keep chemicals and fluids tightly capped and out of the reach of children and pets. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get professional advice.

Asbestos Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products

— such as

brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets,

etc. — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. |f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos.

Fire Remember at all'times that gasoline is highly flammable. Never smoke or have any kind of open flame around when working on a vehicle. But the risk does not end there. A spark caused by an electrical short

circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline vapors, which in a confined space are highly explosive. Do not, under any circumstances, use gasoline for cleaning parts. Use an approved

safety solvent.

Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on any part of the fuel system or electrical system. Never risk spilling fuel on a hot engine or exhaust component. It is strongly recommended that a fire extinguisher suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires be kept handy in the garage or workshop at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water.

Torch (flashlight in the US) Any reference to a ‘‘torch’’ appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held, battery-operated electric light or flashlight. It DOES NOT mean a welding or propane torch or blowtorch.

Fumes Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Gasoline vapor falls into this category, as do the vapors from some cleaning solvents. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions on the container carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers. Never run the engine in an enclosed space, such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air, or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the work area. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour gasoline and never run the engine while the vehicle is over the pit. The fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never create a spark or allow a bare light bulb near a battery. They normally give off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground (—) cable at the battery before working on the fuel or electrical systems.

If possible, loosen the filler caps or cover when charging the battery from an external source (this does not apply to sealed or maintenancefree batteries). Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when adding water to a non maintenance-free battery and when carrying a battery. The electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact clothing or skin. Always wear eye protection when cleaning the battery to prevent the caustic deposits from entering your eyes.

Mains electricity (household current in the US) When using an electric power tool, inspection light, etc., which operates on household current, always make sure that the tool is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly grounded. Do not use such items in damp conditions and, again, do not create a spark or apply excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel

vapor.

Secondary ignition system voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system (such as the spark plug wires) when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. In the case of an electronic ignition system, the secondary system voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

Routine

maintenance

For modifications,

and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from the car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication — oiling, greasing and so on — has been drastically reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required the items either no longer exist or will last for ever. This is certainly not the case; it is essential to carry out regular visual examination as comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at an early stage before they develop into major expensive repairs.

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly — whichever comes first

Engine Check the oil level and top up if necessary (photos) Check the coolant level and top up if necessary

Tyres Check the tyre pressures and adjust if necessary (photo)

Adjust ignition timing Check battery terminals and electrolyte level where applicable Check operation of electrical components

Gearbox/transmission Check oil/fluid level and top up if necessary (photos) Check differential oil level and top up if necessary transmission models only)

(automatic

Brakes Check Check Check Grease Check

brake fluid level and top up if necessary disc pads for wear hydraulic system for security front brake caliper yokes with special grease handbrake operation

Steering and suspension Check Check Check Check

toe-in and adjust if necessary power steering fluid level and top up if necessary suspension balljoints and rubbers driveshaft joint bellows

Check steering track rod end joints and rubbers Every 5000

miles (7500 km) on UK models — additional

Body

Engine

Lubricate door and bonnet locks and hinges _

Change engine oil on Turbo models Clean fuel pump filter on carburettor engines Renew spark plugs on Turbo models

Check wiper blades and washer system

(photo)

Every 20 000 miles (30 000 km) on UK models — additional Every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) on UK models — additional

Engine Change oil and filter Clean air cleaner element Renew air cleaner element on Turbo models Check fuel lines for security

Top up damper oil level on carburettor engines Adjust slow running Check

Engine Check and adjust valve clearances on 99 models only Renew delay valve

Automatic

transmission

Renew fluid, clean filter, and adjust downshift and selector cables : at first 20 000 miles (30 000 km) only

Body

exhaust system

Check cooling system hoses and antifreeze strength

Renew

air filter for passenger compartment on 900 models only

Check all hoses and pipes for security

Adjust deceleration valve where applicable Synchronise twin carburettors where applicable Check and adjust choke control Check all nuts and bolts for tightness Check Turbo charging pressure and operation

Electrical Check

all drivebe!lts for condition

and tension (photo)

Adjust headlamp alignment Renew spark plugs Check ignition leads Renew contact breaker points where applicable

Every 30000

miles (45 000 km) on UK models — additional

Engine Renew air cleaner element Check and adjust valve clearances Renew the fuel filter on fuel injection engines Clean Turbo charge pressure regulator on 99 models only

Automatic

transmission

Change final drive oil

}

~

Routine

maintenance

17

SS

Brakes Change

Check automatic transmission fluid level and differential oil level and top up if necessary

brake fluid (at least once every two years)

Steering . Check

Electrical system

camber and caster

Every 5000 additional

miles (7500 km) on 1979

Check battery terminals for security Check operation of electrical components Check headlamp alignment

North American

Check handbrake operation Check hydraulic system for security Check disc pads for wear Check brake and clutch fluid level and top up if necessary

Check exhaust system Check all hoses

Check coolant level and strength of antifreeze Change oil and filter on Turbo models

Steering and suspension

Gearbox/transmission

PENS

models —

Brakes

Engine

Check

?

manual

“i

gearbox oil level and top up if necessary

:

Check power steering fluid level and top up if necessary Check driveshaft joint bellows Check toe-in and adjust if necessary

+

sd

Checking power steering gear drivebelt tension

Removing manual gearbox oil level

Washer fluid reservoir

Using 3 inch square key to remove manual gearbox drain plug

Lac

Manual gearbox level dipstick markings

dipstick

Je

:

ster

Checking the tyre tread depth

_ fi

Routine

8

ot

maintenance Brakes

Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km) on 1979 North American models — additional

Engine Check and adjust all drivebelts

Check Check Check Check Check

hydraulic system for security vacuum servo unit handbrake operation disc pads for wear brake fluid level and top up ifnecessary

Check and adjust valve clearances Tighten cylinder head bolts Renew Renew

spark plugs contact breaker points and condenser where applicable

Every 15 000 miles (24 000 km) or every 12 months on 1980 on North American

models — additional

Adjust ignition timing and clean ignition leads

Engine

Check distributor cap and rotor Renew air cleaner element Check fuel lines and lubricate throttle control Check charcoal canister

Check fuel injection system where applicable Check Turbo charging pressure and over-pressure switch operation Check and adjust valve clearances

Adjust slow running -Clean EGR components and check operation Check pulse air system

Electrical Check headlamp alignment

Check deceleration valve Renew oxygen sensor Check Turbo system

Brakes Grease front brake caliper yokes with special grease

Gearbox/transmission

Steering and suspension

Change manual gearbox oil (photo) Change differential oil on automatic transmission

Check Check Check Check

models

Steering and suspension Check Check Check Check Check

suspension balljoints and rubbers driveshaft joint bellows steering track rod end joints and rubbers camber and caster angles steering gear oil level and top up if necessary

wheel alignment suspension balljoints and rubbers driveshaft joint bellows steering track rod end joints and rubbers

Check tyre tread depth (photo)

Automatic transmission Change hydraulic fluid (once only at 15 OOO miles)

Body

Body

Lubricate door and bonnet locks and hinges

Renew

passenger compartment

air filter

Lubricate door and bonnet locks and hinges Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) on 1979 North American — additional

models Every 30000 miles models — additional

Engine Renew the distributor cap and rotor Renew charcoal canister Clean Turbo pressure regulator Every 2 years on 1979

North American

km)

on

1980

on

North

American

km)

on

1980

on

North

American

km)

on

1980

on

North

American

Engine

models — additional

Change coolant and antifreeze Check and adjust drivebelts Renew spark plugs Renew

air cleaner element

Renew fuel filter (1980)

Engine Renew

(48000

coolant and antifreeze

Every 7500 miles (12 000 km) on non-Turbo models or 5000 miles (7500 km) on Turbo models or every 6 months, on 1980 on North American models — additional

~ Engine Change oil and filter Tighten cylinder head and manifold bolts (1981 on) Check cooling system hoses and antifreeze content Check exhaust system

Clean ignition wires Renew oxygen sensor

Brakes Change brake fluid

Every 50000 miles models — additional

(80000

Engine Renew

the fuel filter

Gearbox/transmission Check oil/fluid level and top up if necessary Check differential oil level and top up if necessary

Every 60000 miles models — additional

(96 000

Electrical Check battery terminals and electrolyte level where applicable Check operation of electrical components

Steering and suspension Check toe-in and adjust if necessary Check power steering fluid level and top up if necessary Check suspension balljoints and rubbers Check driveshaft joint bellows Check steering track rod end joints and rubbers

Engine Check Renew Check Renew Adjust Check Check Clean

fuel evaporative emission control system charcoal canister resistance of ignition HT leads distributor cap and rotor slow running deceleration system ignition timing advance operation EGR system

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Fault diagnosis Introduction

Electrical faults

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle.

Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrica! wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions — heat, vibration and chemical attack — and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of

With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the

the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (—) terminal. The various electrical components — motors, bulb holders etc — are also connected to earth, either by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. Electric current flows through the component and then back to the battery via the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or © corroded, or if a good path back to the battery is not available, the

circuit will be incomplete

and malfunction

will result. The engine

_as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault.

and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 10. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit,

The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault

and the easiest way to check for‘this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire “having a crocodile clip or suitable

fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning

signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault — power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc — and remember that failure of components such

Diagnosis

Section

at the

end

of each

Chapter

which

should

be

-_ consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows:

cgnnector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire “and the break can be thus isolated.

If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you now what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly

iportant if you are investigating a fault for someone

else who may

not have described it very accurately. Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won't start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don't take anyone else's word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical

earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause

burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get

you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn't simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a ‘new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it's been rattling round in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

A simple test lamp is useful for tracing electrical faults

;

;

Fault diagnosis

!

i

Spares and tool kit Most vehicles are supplied only with sufficient tools for wheel changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Too/s and working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance: Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped

HT lead and plug cap — long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor _ Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points Drivebelt(s) — emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage

23 SS

spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having to wait while parts are obtained. The items below may be worth considering:

Choke and throttle cables

Cylinder head gasket Alternator brushes Fuel pump repair kit Tyre valve core

One of the motoring organisations will be able availability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

on

Engine fails to turn when starter operated Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start where possible) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose or broken Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, or inhibitor switch faulty

Ignition/starter switch faulty Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Emergency windscreen Jubilee’ clips Tube of filler paste

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged start)

battery (recharge,

use jump leads, or push

Battery terminals loose or corroded

If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. A first aid kit and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are

Battery earth to body defective Engine earth strap loose

obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry

Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose Starter motor internal fault (see Chapter 10)

additional

NEGATIVE

18 in. MIN

Jump

to advise

Engine will not start

Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads Tow-rope Ignition waterproofing aerosol

DISCHARGED BATTERY

SSS

BOOSTER BATTERY

start lead connections for negative earth vehicles — connect leads in order shown

24

.

Fault diagnosis |

Ci Crank engine and check for a spark. Note use of insulated pliers — dry cloth or a rubber glove will suffice

Engine turns normally but fails to start Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine and check for spark)

Remove fuel pipe from carburettor and check that fuel is being delivered

Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash) Coil or condenser failure (check for spark) Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor points (if applicable)

No fuel in tank (check for delivery) Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine) Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (remove, clean and

regap) Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)

Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold

Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out — fuel fault Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing

cap) Carburettor needle valve sticking Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated)

Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

Engine cuts out — other causes Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine overheats

Engine cuts out and will not restart

Engine cuts out suddenly — ignition fault Loose or disconnected

LT wires

Ignition engine)

(no-charge)

warning

light illuminated

(H type

Slack or broken drivebelt — retension or renew (Chapter 2)

i

_ Fault diagnosis

——

25

Ignition warning light not illuminated Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil Jevel Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Electric cooling fan not operating correctly Engine waterways clogged

Ignition timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning Mixture too weak Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result ,

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

Low engine oil pressure

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged Oil pump

worn

or mountings

loose

Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oi/ pressure in a high-mileage

engine at tickover is not

necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure /oss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

Tapping or rattling Incorrect valve clearances Worn valve gear

Worn timing chain Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping Unintentional mechanical contact Worn drivebelt Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps

under Worn under Piston

less load) main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening load) slap (most noticeable when cold)

Chapter 1 Engine For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents 16 1

Parercore tart asro pe ieee Ancillary components — (eihulateherravtao Ancillary COMPONENtS — FEMOVAL ...crscccccseseesererersesereesereneees

Flywheel/driveplate — removal ....c.s.secsscscsstseseseceersessseseansesssnscseseseataenesens General description ........:00 acdduacawanadeuteaaetugass cevabstod stotpheke abiesannesenate

IPT HVSTTEGE RIOT IUELIRC co ccseescovectcreestdceccaaevowsdedecsuccsstinsesaphsssucnoy iovacee Bee VPESTEA es ERY OOVER Oras cesc cancts sussvocuaihaeshancsteueucceleatsubiccaaieranduvashoecevechyers Camshaft and bearings — examination and renovation Connecting rods — examination and renovation ......csscseseseseneeeeeees

Idler shaft (B type engine) — examination and renovation ............. 28 Idler shaft (B type engine) — refitting ......cccsscseseresseersesesecseseteareees 41 Idler shaft (B type engine) — reMOVA ......cccsccsrseesesecsececeeeseseeeeseacesene 13 Major operations only possible after removal of the engine from

Crankcase

ventilation

system — description

and maintenance......

21

QING. COM.

sssscusosdshtestp vecevaasiais sogeunsdtsaseolomedatenh osblsiacretydarte passin teueee ay ease cine anes

Crankshaft and main bearings — examination and renovation........ 23

Major operations possible with the engine in the CaP .....-.sssssesse

Crankshaft and main bearings — refitting Crankshaft and main bearings — removal Cylinder block and-bores — examination and renovation ............0. Cylinder head — decarbonising and examination ......cccccseecersees EINES CECA —ACUSITIANUULING, cncnsczcccosesnesssnsnnoidetosnsdesecaurossvoovessesecseredeeseovd VNC GAG. =a FEASSOMIDIY q colour coding

0.004 to 0.012 in (0.1 to 0.3 mm) Red.

1100 rpm 850 + 50 rpm

Shoulder level with bottom of piston

.

Chapter 3 Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems

67

Twin carburettor engines Type

SSSeceRenSusaueSesceeseeuesetodeuscnncucrecceesnectescuaunnccseendonsccceanacesecccssuceiseeneeen

Zenith 150 CD 1.5 in

Metering needle: 1979 models Float setting Float valve

Fast idle cam clearance (B type engine) Eastuclimg speed! (Hi type emaline) siccccsisshcoccssasseccoccstscoessesdevvocivecorcseucorasenees

Idling speed

CO content (with distributor vacuum and crankcase ventilation VOSES CHS Taare Cpe [se isye le Ai Se See a a RC a neg 9 Jet position: 2) (iVSRAa NeUt Cock-orre tere eee art ae Nee ne ge A eed Sec

ual USHTRTER GEale[Tn2)Stee

eee

one

ee

PERERA TIC MIC MESA SPOSITION seccecoccosssncicsnscctectvcessacccavsdsavaciscsnevexceeFivec tous Temperature compensator opening at 20°C (60°F) .....ccccscssssesecesscseseees ISCONETETUEM, SONING. COIOUL COGIMG Srscrcscscssesacusvssovaaccevsassssvesestsastteioaavctets

B5 EJ B5 EQ 0.63 to 0.67 0.08 in (2.0 0.4 in (10.0 0.04 in (1.0

in (16.0 to 17.0 mm) mm) mm) below upper edge mm)

1100 rpm 850 + 50 rpm

1.5 + 1.0% at 850 rpm 0.1 in (2.5 mm) from seating 0.090 + 0.004 in (2.3 + 0.1 mm) from seating Shoulder level with bottom of piston

0.004 to 0.012 in (0.1 to 0.3 mm) Blue

Fuel injection system a

ae

ee

ee

cE

ca

ch tea cece seated Segns the asus Seta

EE

te rab,

Fuel pump capacity (return pipe discharge in 30 seconds) ........c0 MEheevel. PEESSUTG:|(WAFINI, ENGINE) cbecsyssars sens c-tiancsezasticstesaSecssecdcceeessceeseeveisvsans Full load control pressure (Turbo models) .....c.ccccsscscscssssesesssescssessccerscseees Line pressure: ALGUn SU Teo, ete a7eEe) ie pepe alle Se SOA A el alge ees An ee eS MMPI NYCMMRENENCTERSct acs y gn sce cata oh hens Shee avasa ca noch ccusssceceavsencheneeons see tetes Minimum leakage pressure after 20 MiNUtES ........ccccscccesescsseseseseseeceseseees Injection valve opening pressure: Pop oumodels: tO; date :COUG.B2B,, ce veticsesessacctvsssittansssasvcadat aabeosvasonenten aR OMMOLIGHS Onl Gate COME B29 oc. scscdatincstaateanstaaiesccisieswticehars EINStaeLINIRENE Co tea a oc oaBac ences nncatoa sc rapeaereerea van eia sat aaacsvensoecdse sare ogs BRISB EDs MOHAN FESODCNOSs oes otto reycatssc cv vv cet wa steve cos Supaene ea cbomd bavactonccanwoucbNeuseetent MEY ANANYE CIID G(T ARON) orcisansneg es exoacsoah svonscxsaaus avssisica¥inaaccagevdsaceseaascaseraredsdaa cas Idling speed: DMCMMIA RISEN ES55See ase econ ae ror caccny sescnexbosepanpiaducnnstcauiennyamyncasicagansvieonxeobaihyn crits POUEINP ETI ICOID. MIG Sx vos svaxczexapsesenspysoxsatensivospheagtcretessesioeisiereaeticeesr eves

CO content (at idling speed) — UK models: : SRA OFGs meee et reeon ad eu'pdgros oviewnce neve outpnetonaiy ay co csesencUSueie tr recs tec tua ese incueyyo.es ese Sess NOM—LULDO (MOIS sicsccncscsesencavsne enccieticcpey onchevadead ibs vseeee , RES CIR: UFO WITOUGIS sca;vaccsenesternapevacsodsuehvavessenycuaveduavatavas tuvdaaveondscadve CO content (at idling speed) - USA models: BVA CNGINe — WIthOUT Catal YSt ciavisecccocsossscsacveseanacdcwseteis’ vetsresesensvonse

B type engine — with catalyst (1979). ..:......cssscsccsccnsenrseessseessesssseton B type PURE EVO FUREY DG CO content

Turbo

engine — with catalyst (1980) oo... eeeeseeeserseteteeneeeeeens TETICHING —\ CHIOGKIG Reese nate n fart tneg beetdso > exter dassstavecrseaneszontnecoeiasbesi CTIGIMNG — SOUL G vacenecssencdnacszastexvecsecseoscsstetsvosnzsnsdavassesonsunsoergesseen (at idling speed) — Canada models.............. ssossvesasszessthnchsrabads

Bosch Cl (continuous injection) 900 cc 48.5 to 54.0 Ibf/in? (3.4 to 3.8 bar)

36.3 to 42.1 Ibf/in? (2.5 to 2.9 bar)

66.9 to 69.7 Ibf/in? (4.7 to 4.9 bar) 76.8 to 79.7 Ibf/in? (5.4 to 5.6 bar)

21.8 Ibf/in? (1.5 bar)

36.3 to 52.2 Ibf/in? 39.2 to 55.1 Ibf/in? 43.5 to 55.1 Ibf/in? 43.5 to 59.5 Ibf/in? 8.7 Ibf/in? (0.6 bar)

(2.5 (2.7 (3.0 (3.0

to to to to

3.6 3.8 3.8 4.1

bar) bar) bar) bar)

850 + 50 rpm 875 + 50 rpm

151.076 1.0 + 0.5% 1.0 + 0.5% (see also Turbo system)

0.75 + 0.25% 0.75 fenee:

1.0 + 0.25% Oxygen sensor pulse relation within 10 to 90% with warm Oxygen sensor pulse relation within 55 to 65% with warm

1.5 + 0.5%

system

BNA eceet se omlePaascae. sarees cpsstt-asdechtdavnstsasuvccesetodhdstvessizestiesarubertnansracsToyaut4s toanareuannsSzen

Garrett Airesearch

Maximum charging pressure: PETA CRIS ees ceo a cose ote dee raes atenoa rca aa aE ediisiati/ids adeseusesbondeas rivevancaaeain [Nkesad 95/8CanVelpierslntetan (019 (olch:

Chapter 4 Ignition system

95

INCL

UK 900 models — Conventional system

To 1980 models 1981

f

on models

17° BTDC at maximum of 800 rpm and vacuum hose disconnected 20° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum hose disconnected

UK 900 motels — Electronic system Induction transmitter Hall transmitter:

(ie Turbo

models)

MEMO Mem eeenererecenseneeeeeeseusnaceeeeseReesmUeubeauesedseneeeseesccecsececesecs

Canada

hose disconnected and plugged

23° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum 20° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum

hose disconnected and plugged hose disconnected and plugged

20° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum 23° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum 22° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum

hose disconnected hose disconnected hose disconnected

20° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum 23° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum 20° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum

hose disconnected and plugged hose disconnected and plugged hose disconnected and plugged

20° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum

hose disconnected and plugged

900 models

Conventional

USA

23° BTDC at 2000 rpm and vacuum

system:

900 models

EV ecircnnes S¥Stolit, als OGOIS ccc

seater ee

Spark plugs Type:

PARES IS ORGOOE NUNLIO ss crane eds Serie

crete inact eng easter eee)

NGK BP-6ES Bosch W 175 T 30 Champion N-9Y NGK BP-6ES NGK BP-7ES Champion N-7Y NGK BP-7ES Champion N-7Y 0.024 to 0.028 in (0.6 to 0.7 mm)

HT leads Resistance: PEFAIS eUS P PII MOVIN ICIOIS sspucesesvesasteasanseneiss covessvoacs(seesesstatreecorustes Pete PEN OS SL ALIGN RPE VINTAGES: oasnes covegnoecsenccsséssxncnse Faoivesuacstsensaptabsbus RG ACHAT ESAT COR CLOMUN SETA LLON CAD 2a cscs 2sitciessseversavves sccsscsoceassateg phtanenayh

Torque wrench settings BeechReapVARY Sree sete

1.

General

ee ares

rete ee

Sos sak ohdaussStenwdaciciotesadiasuceaseSoieasvdetate tenake

description

The ignition system may be of either conventional or electronic type — all USA and all Turbo models are equipped with electronic ignition. Both systems use a coil, but on the conventional system the primary circuit is ‘switched by contact points whereas on the electronic system the circuit is switched electronically. In order that the engine can run correctly it is necessary for an — electrical spark to ignite the fuel/air mixture in the combustion chamber at exactly the right moment in relation to engine speed and load. The ignition system is based on feeding low tension (LT) voltage from the battery to the coil where it is converted to high tension (HT) voltage. The high tension voltage is powerful enough to jump the spark plug gap in the cylinders many times a second under high compression pressures, providing that the system is in good condition. The system functions in the following manner. Low tension voltage is changed in the coil to high tension voltage by the alternate switching on and off of the primary circuit by the contact points (conventional system) or impulse generator and control unit (electronic system). The high tension voltage is fed to the relevant spark plug via the distributor cap and rotor arm. The ignition is advanced and retarded automatically to ensure that the spark occurs at the correct instant in relation to the engine speed and load. The ignition advance in relation to engine speed is controlled by centrifugal weights in the distributor which turn the upper section of

the driveshaft on the lower drive section. Advance (and retard on Turbo models) in relation to engine load is controlled by a vacuum unit on the distributor which moves the distributor base plate. The electronic ignition may be of two alternative types. The

3250 ohm 3000 ohm

(max) (max)

1000 ohm (max) Ibf ft V8ton2

2

Nm 2D tOy2o

inductive transmitter type incorporates a rotor with four arms which rotate past four magnetic stator posts, and an induction coil transmits the electronic impulse to a control unit. The Hall transmitter type incorporates a slotted rotor, magnet, and a semi-conductor transmitter — which again transmits the electronic impulse to a control unit. When working on electronic ignition systems remember that the high tension voltage can be considerably higher than on a conventional system and in certain circumstances could prove fatal. Depending on the position of the distributor components it is also possible for a single high tension spark to be generated simply by knocking the distributor with the ignition switched on. It is therefore important to keep the ignition system clean and dry at all times, and to make sure that the ignition switch is off when working on the engine.

2

Routine maintenance

UK models 1 Spark plugs should be renewed every 10 000 miles (15 000 km) on all models except Turbo models where they should be renewed every 5000 miles (7500 km).

2 very 10000 miles (15 000 km) clean and check the plug HT leads and distributor cap, and lubricate the distributor driveshaft. Renew the contact breaker points where applicable, and adjust the dwell angle and ignition timing.

Canada and USA models

On 1979 models renew the spark plugs every 15 000 miles 3 (22 500 km) and where applicable renew the contact breaker points

96

Chapter 4 Ignition system

and condenser. Adjust the dwell angle where applicable, and adjust the ignition timing.

3 On type H engines remove the plastic dust cover, then mark the bearing plate for position, loosen the screws and withdraw the plate —

4 Lubricate the distributor where applicable, and clean and check the plug HT leads and distributor cap every 15 OOO miles (22 500 km). Renew the distributor cap and rotor every 30 OOO miles (45 000 km). 5 On 1980 and 1981 models renew the spark plugs every 15 OOO miles (22 500 km) only under severe driving conditions, otherwise renew them every 30 000 miles (45 O00 km). 6 Clean and check the plug HT leads and distributor cap every 12 months, and renew the distributor cap and rotor every 60 OOO miles

(photo).

(90 000 km).

4

Disconnect the LT lead from the terminal inside the distrinuter (photo). 5 Unscrew the fixed contact retaining screw and withdraw the contact breaker points (photo). 6 Wipe clean the distributor base plate, the distributor cap and the HT leads. Check that the carbon brush moves freely in the lattes cap and that the metal HT segments are clean. 7 Apply one or two drops of oil to the felt pad at the fp of the ’ driveshaft.

8 3

Contact breaker points — checking

There is no specific interval for checking the contact breaker points, but the following information is given for use in the event of breakdown. If the points are renewed at the recommended intervals it will not normally be necessary to check them.

1 Prise back the spring clips, remove the distributor cap and place it to one side. 2 Pull off the rotor arm and on type H engines remove the plastic

dust cover (photo). 5 3 Prise open the contact points and examine the condition of their faces. If they are discoloured or pitted, remove them with reference to Section 4 and dress them using emery tape or a grindstone. If they are worn excessively, renew them. 4 If the contact points are described in Section 4.

in good

condition,

adjust

them

as

5 Refit the plastic dust cover (if applicable), the rotor arm, and the distributor cap.

4

Fit the new contact breaker points and tighten the fixed contact

screws finger tight. 9 Connect the LT lead to the terminal. 10 Turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the heel of the moving contact is on the high point of one of the cam lobes. ; 11 Using a feeler blade check that the gap between the two points is as given in the Specifications (photo). If not, with the fixed contact screw finger tight use a screwdriver in the baseplate slot to reposition the fixed contact until the feeler blade is a firm sliding fit between the two points. When correct tighten the screw. 12 Connect a dwellmeter to the engine and turn the engine on the starter — the dwell angle should be within the limits given in the Specifications but if not, adjust the contact points gap as necessary. Reduce the gap to increase the angle or increase the gap to reduce the angle. 13 On type H engines refit the bearing plate and tighten the screws, and fit the plastic dust cover (photo). Note that adjustment of the contact points gap is possible with the bearing plate fitted if the points are being checked as in Section 2. 14 Refit the rotor arm and distributor cap.

Contact breaker points — renewal and adjustment

1 Prise back the spring clips, remove the distributor cap and place it to one side. 2 Pull off the rotor arm.

3.2 Removing the plastic dust cover from the distributor on type H engines

5

Condenser — testing, removal and refitting

1

The condenser is fitted in parallel with the contact points, and its

od

4.3 Removing the distributor bearing plate on type H engines

4.4 Contact breaker points location on type H engines

4.11 Using a feeler blade to adjust the contact breaker points gap

4.13 Showing bearing plate location tab on the type H engine distributor

he, Y 4SPE ROT

Oe 4.5 Removing the contact breaker points retaining screw

;

Chapter 4 Ignition system

Fig. 4.1 Removing the contact breaker points on the type B engine (Sec 4)

97

Fig. 4.2 Adjusting the contact breaker points gap on the type B

engine (Sec 4)

purpose is to reduce arcing between the points, and also to accelerate the collapse of the coil low tension negative field. A faulty condenser can cause the complete failure of the ignition system, as the points will

be prevented from interrupting the low tension circuit. 2

To test the condenser,

remove

the distributor cap and on type H

engines the rotor arm and_-plastic dust cover. Turn the engine until the points are closed then switch on the ignition and separate the points with a screwdriver. If this is accompanied by a strong blue flash, the condenser is faulty (a weak spark is normal). 3 A further test can be made for short circuiting by disconnecting the LT leads from the connector block and using a test lamp and leads connected to the terminal and body. If the test lamp lights, the condenser is faulty. 4 _ |f the condenser persists.

is suspect, renew it and check whether the fault

5 To remove the condenser first check that the ignition is switched off.

Type B engines 6 Prise back the spring clips, remove the distributor cap and place it to one side. 7

Mark

the distributor

body

in relation

to the cylinder block then

loosen the mounting bolt and turn the distributor so that the condenser

5.11 Condenser location on the type H engine distributor

,

screw is visible. 8 Disconnect the LT leads then remove the screw and withdraw the condenser. 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but check and adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 8.

Type H engines 10 11

Disconnect the LT lead from the distributor terminal. Remove the mounting screw, withdraw the condenser and discon-

nect the LT lead (photo). 12 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6

Distributor — removal and refitting

Type B engines 1 Prise back the spring clips, remove the distributor cap and place it to one side.

2 3

Disconnect the coil to distributor wiring. Disconnect the vacuum hose.

4 Turn the engine with a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt until the rotor arm is approaching the No 1 HT lead position of the distributor cap (No 1 cylinder is at the timing chain end of engine).

Continue turning until the relevant ignition timing mark on the flywheel is aligned with the mark in the clutch housing cover timing hole. The rotor arm should now point towards the groove in the distributor rim (remove the plastic cover if applicable).

Fig. 4.3 Distributor rotor arm on the type B engine pointing to the timing groove (Sec 6)

98

Chapter 4 Ignition system

Fig. 4.4 Unscrewing the distributor mounting bolt on the type B

engine (Sec 6)

Fig. 4.5 Showing movement of the rotor arm when removing the distributor on the type B engine (Sec 6)

5 Mark the distributor body in relation to the cylinder block then unscrew the mounting bolt and lift out the distributor. As the distributor is being removed, the rotor arm will turn approximately 50° clockwise — make a pencil mark on the rim for this position. 6 To refit the distributor check that the ignition timing mark on the flywheel is still aligned with the mark in the clutch housing cover timing hole. Turn the rotor arm so that it is approximately 50° clockwise of the groove in the distributor rim. 7 Position the distributor over the hole in the block with the groove in the distributor rim facing the cylinder head, then insert it fully into the block so that the gears are engaged. If may be necessary to turn the engine slightly so that the oil pump shaft locates correctly. The rotor arm should now point towards the groove in the distributor rim. 8 Check that the previously made marks on the distributor body and block are aligned, then insert the mounting bolt and tighten slightly. .9 Reconnect the vacuum hose and LT lead, and refit the distributor

cap. 10 Adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 8.

Type H engines 11 Prise back the spring clips, remove the distributor cap and place it to one side. 12 Disconnect the LT lead and the vacuum hose (photo). 13 Mark the distributor body in relation to the valve cover, then

unscrew the mounting bolts and withdraw the distributor (photos).

6.13A Distributor mounting bolts on the type H engine

6.13B Removing the distributor on the type H engine

Common spark plug conditions NORMAL Symptoms: Brown to grayish-tan color and slight electrode wear. Correct heat range for engine and operating conditions. Recommendation: When new spark plugs are installed, replace with plugs of the same heat range.

- TOO HOT

WORN Symptoms: Rounded electrodes with a small amount of deposits on the firing end. Normal color. Causes hard starting in damp or cold weather and poor fuel economy. Recommendation: Plugs have been left in the engine too long. Replace with new plugs of the same heat range. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule.

CARBON

Symptoms: Blistered, white insulator, eroded electrode and absence of deposits. Results in shortened plug life. © Recommendation: Check for the correct

plug

heat

range,

over-

advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture,

intake

manifold

vacuum

leaks, sticking valves and insufficient engine cooling.

PREIGNITION

DEPOSITS

Symptoms: Dry sooty deposits indicate a rich mixture or weak ignition. Causes misfiring, hard starting and hesitation. Recommendation: Make sure the plug has the correct heat range. Check for a clogged air filter or problem in the fuel system or engine management system. Also check for ignition system problems.

ASH DEPOSITS Symptoms: Light brown deposits encrusted on the side or center electrodes or both. Derived from oil

and/or fuel additives. Excessive amounts may mask the spark, causing misfiring and hesitation during acceleration. Recommendation: lf excessive deposits accumulate over a short time or low mileage, install new valve guide seals to prevent seepage of oil into the combustion chambers. Also try changing gasoline brands.

OIL DEPOSITS Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting, misfiring and hesitation. Recommendation: Correct the

Symptoms: Melted electrodes. Insulators are white, but may be

dirty. due to misfiring or flying debris in the combustion chamber. Can lead to engine damage. Recommendation: Check for the correct

plug

heat

range,

over-

advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, insufficient engine cooling and lack of lubrication.

HIGH SPEED GLAZING Symptoms: Insulator has yellowish, glazed appearance. Indicates that combustion chamber temper-

atures have risen suddenly during hard acceleration. Normal deposits melt to form a conductive coating. Causes misfiring at high speeds. Recommendation: _ Install new plugs. Consider using a colder plug if driving habits warrant.

DETONATION Symptoms: _ Insulators may be cracked or chipped. Improper gap setting techniques can also result in a fractured insulator tip. Can lead to piston damage. Recommendation: Make sure the fuel anti-knock values meet engine requirements. Use care when setting the gaps on new plugs. Avoid lugging the engine.

mechanical condition with necessary repairs and install new plugs.

MECHANICAL DAMAGE GAP BRIDGING Symptoms:

Combustion

deposits

lodge. between the electrodes. Heavy deposits accumulate and bridge the electrode gap. The plug ceases

to fire, resulting in a dead

cylinder. Recommendation:

Locate

the

faulty plug and remove the deposits from between the electrodes.

Symptoms: May be caused by a foreign object in the combustion chamber or the piston striking an incorrect reach (too long) plug. Causes a dead cylinder and could result in piston damage. Recommendation: Repair the mechanical damage. Remove the foreign object from the engine and/or install the correct reach plug.

Chapter 4 Ignition system

100

S

AAW NAAN vy yt

Xe

RRR

ah

mall

e |

Fig. 4.6 Exploded view of the distributor on the type B engine with

conventional ignition (Sec 7) Distributor cap Rotor arm Vacuum control unit Contact breaker points NR&®NM™m

§ 6 7

0

Drivegear

14 To refit the distributor hold it over the mounting hole with the previously made marks aligned. If a new distributor is being fitted, the vacuum capsule should face the exhaust manifold side of the engine. 15 Turn the distributor shaft to align the dogs with the offset groove in the camshaft, then fit the distributor to the valve cover. 16 Align the previously made marks then insert the mounting bolts and tighten them slightly. 17 Reconnect the vacuum hose and LT lead, and refit the distributor cap. 18 Adjust the ignition timing as described in Section 8.

7

ON a w

Low-tension wire Spring clip

Distributor — dismantling and reassembly

Complete dismantling of the distributor is not recommended, however if necessary refer to Figs 4.6 to 4.9 inclusive

Conventional ignition system vacuum

control unit

1 Prise back the spring clips, remove the distributor cap and place it to one side. Pull off the rotor arm. 2 On type H engines remove the plastic dust cover then mark the bearing plate for position, loosen the screws and withdraw the plate. 3 Disconnect the vacuum hose. 4 Remove the retaining screws from the distributor body. Note on type B engines that one of the screws secures the distributor cap clip. 5 Extract the circlip from inside the distributor, disengage the control arm and withdraw the vacuum control unit. 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

4

nAa

Fig. 4.7 Exploded view of the distributor on the type H engine with conventional ignition (Sec 7) 1 2 3 4 § 6

Distributor cap Rotorarm Dust cover Bearing plate Spring clip Contact breaker points

7 8

Base plate Shaft and centrifugal mechanism 9 Body 10 Vacuum unit 11 Condenser

Electronic ignition (inductive) induction coil 7 Remove the distributor as described in Section 5. 8 Remove the rotor arm and plastic dust cover. 9 Remove the clip, unscrew the screw and withdraw the cable terminal. 10 Remove the screws, unhook the control arm and withdraw the vacuum control unit and pad noting the location of the distributor cap clip. 3 11 Remove the screws securing the transmitter plate and distributor cap clip and remove the clip. 12 Extract the circlip from the shaft, remove the washer, and prise off the rotor. Recover the lock pin. 13 Extract the circlip and withdraw the impulse transmitter. 14 Remove the screws and separate the induction coil from the transmitter plate. 15 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

101

Fig. 4.8 Exploded view of the distributor on the type H engine with inductive electronic ignition

(Sec 7) Distributor cap Rotor arm Dust cover

Bearing plate Spring clip OQA&dNMs

Rotor Induction coil Stator YD OMAN © Base plate

10. Shaft and centrifugal 11 72 13

mechanism Body Vacuum unit Delay valve

102

Fig. 4.9 Exploded view of the distributor on the type H engine with Hall effect electronic ignition (Sec 7)

1 2

Distributor cap Rotor arm

3 4

Dust cover Bearing plate

§ 6

Spring clip Slotted rotor

7 Hall transmitter Pemekyevareoe