Haynes Opel Corsa 1983 to 1993 Owners Workshop Manual 185960160X, 9781859601600

“Covers: All Petrol models, Saloon and Hatchback, including Gte, GSi and most Special/Limited editions ̃993cc, 1196cc, 1

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Owners Workshop Manual

Ss

(Werry Davey )

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C50

1684740

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Opel Corsa Owners Workshop Manual

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1684740 ATION AND LIBRARY BOARD. WESTERN EDUC LIBRARY SERVICE.

n and Hatchback, _

special/limited editions 9 cc & 1598 cc

Books can be renewed, by personal application, post or

dels or all aspects of the limited

telephone, quoting latest date, author and book number.

toresorvan

NO RENEWALS CAN BE GRANTED FOR A BOOK RESERVED BY ANOTHER READER.

Bie nbes -7X13)

Readers are expected to take care of books. Lost or damaged books must be paid for by the borrower concerned. PD58 |

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|

Haynes Publishing Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive Newbury Park California 91320 USA

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Th EDUCA ST, Pataca sere tay

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Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, to Holt Lloyd Limited who supplied the illustrations showing bodywork repair, and to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of Vauxhall Motors Ltd, and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. —

© Haynes Publishing 1995 A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd., Sparkford, Nr. Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanieal, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 160 X British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or

omissions from, the information given.

ae

Contents Page Acknowledgements

About this manual Introduction to the Vauxhall Nova



a: 4

General dimensions, weights and capacities (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

6

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification numbers

SJ

General repair procedures

©

Tools and working facilities

©

Jacking, towing and wheel changing

11

lubricants and fluids

12

Recommended

Safety first!

13

Routine maintenance (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

14

Fault diagnosis

20

Chapter 1 Engine (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

23

Chapter 2 Cooling system (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

57

Chapter 3 Fuel and exhaust systems (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

64

Chapter 4 Ignition system (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

85

Chapter 5 Clutch (falso see Chapter 13, page 229)

96

Chapter 6 Transmission (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

104

Chapter 7 Driveshafts (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

127

Chapter 8 Steering gear

131

Chapter 9 Braking system (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

142

Chapter 10 Electrical system (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

160

Chapter 11 Suspension (also see Chapter 13, page 229)

193

Chapter 12 Bodywork (a/so see Chapter 13, page 229)

209

Chapter 13 Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

229

Conversion factors

343

Index

344

Spark plug condition and bodywork repair colour pages between pages 32 and 33

About this manual Its aim The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a step-by-step sequence so that even a novice can do the work.

/ts arrangement The manual is divided into thirteen Chapters, . logical sub-division of the vehicle. The Chapters are Sections, numbered with single figures, eg 5; and paragraphs (or sub-sections), with decimal numbers the Section they are in, eg 5.1, 5.2, 5.3 etc.

Introduction

each covering a each divided into the Sections into following on from

It is freely illustrated, especially in those parts where there is a detailed sequence of operations to be carried out. There are two forms of illustration: figures and photographs. The figures are numbered in sequence with decimal numbers, according to their position in the Chapter — eg Fig. 6.4 is the fourth drawing/illustration in Chapter 6. Photographs carry the same number (either individually or in related groups) as the Section or sub-section to which they relate. There is an alphabetical index at the back of the manual as well as a contents list at the front. Each Chapter is also preceded by its own individual contents list. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat facing forwards. Unless otherwise stated, nuts and bolts are removed by turning anti-clockwise, .and tightened by turning clockwise. Vehicle manufacturers continually make changes to specifications and recommendations, and these, when notified, are incorporated into our manuals at the earliest opportunity.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

to the Vauxhall

Nova

After a controversial launch early in 1983, owing to its Spanish origins, the Nova quickly established itself as a leading contender in the small car market. The Vauxhall Nova is General Motors UK version of the established Opel Corsa and shares many mechanical components with the

and five-door Hatchback versions, availabie with a choice of 1.0 litre ohv and 1.2, 1.3 or 1.6 litre ohc engines. Various levels of trim and optional equipment are available depending upon the model selected from the range. In keeping with current design trends, the Nova is of straight-

Astra/Cavalier range.

forward

The model line-up includes two- and four-door Saloon and three-

design

components

and

construction

and service points.

with

easy

access

to

major

Saloon Nova Vauxhall

General

dimensions, weights and capacities

For information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Dimensions Overall length: SOOIitintiszecnes senses Rate eee IS end Fo RRR Ute a A ae tA DAG IC coerce apa ae oui eran tae eae ae tue ie teas Tat ch Eee Overall width: RT CHOON soccer Cee teeter on at GS Ire Mem atone crime aon eI TERE MN ACKaecen ae Ge ster Soci tncaesdi tata tepisriane eh so ane aueeerne Noes Ab beac eee ae

3955

mm

(155.7 in)

3622

mm

(142.6 in)

1540 mm 1532 mm

(60.6 in) (60.3 in)

1360 mm

(53.5 in)

1365

mm

(53.7 in)

2343

mm

(92.2 in)

1320 mm

(52.0 in)

Overall height: SEIOO |ANE Soles egress coe COREScE RSs SS TELIA tea MRR eR THUG AC ccaeahinan ees cet ero ace icc teasyaGaee kariecie eet Ce aet eRe S Ee IWC CHASE rstrv axctccensastoaccerinys Weak ova andecesuceiaue aiekakairemalee beak se bac eetebee saan tea Track:

1307 mm (51.6 in) 144 mm (5.7 in)

Weights Kerb weight: SalOOMMMOGES errreikwi uscesSstedenorcavednians outsualesswad dedsensecalngeceae erie Hatchbacks

MOGEIS

camara ia recctsan Melee asariacine aetnasereeia cies

TES OLOOMMTIOGESeater re aniees secvaicu oss preety caeie sree, CaO Tae LeaG MDAC aiMO CES). dheccscksveiiesel cot nace aeeecatesnadie! cwdueteneeneeetta caus

SS AOCENS tupac seesaai ves Suactatssccite set teaastage ts aieans ee Rea ace nt GTRESIT OCLC reg ea rek Ca la ge te ae leeee an IMaxtiUmnrOOnitiack

Maximum

loaGetowca tics alos sie.cans. cosets cohete tenereis ee eos

ae

caravan/trailer towing weight:

1.0 models Berar

pace tee An Na

en eeteke

740 735 750 750 770 834 80

kg (1631 Ibs) kg (1620 Ibs) kg (1653 Ibs) kg (1653 Ibs) kg (1698 Ibs) kg (1839 lbs) kg (176 Ibs)

Braked trailer Meesat atat geiae amare ecaee eae

400 kg (882 Ibs) 650 kg (1433 Ibs) 800 kg (1764 Ibs) 50 kg (110 Ibs)

Capacities FUSE GNC cy aia daca

a ease

et cok raglan RN a arecdSRR

ae

ara

42 litres (9.2 gal)

Cooling system: MeOMMO GEIS Le ee serene eRe aee oh cece seeice cr sana cuven see SNS EER

K2- Same

Gamocdelsi

eink shit ors ek oa

Sea

aR

aE

5.5 litres (9.7 pt) 6.1 litres (10.7 pt)

Engine oil (with filter change): TOTO GSSS a Bersseieeo sce aetes eewraee oor cates veains siete vena. sariascaranrieeesvaraant (2S ENG 13a OCSspear e ene as scree uat ie i a ieee pe el OHIMIG GOS iosscrceee ten trae aaa emer Raven tsa cath ni aee rn aera

Difference between MAX and MIN marks on dipstick: (Oe Te2k aiid ARSemOdel Sr isce eee ea ie eae ee TG IMOGEIS 6: cic Transmission:

cere eee parce ee GDR

e eai

en ene eaee R

FOUF-SPEGGHMNOCEIS x:ccssrnche eetsteeceaivan peeateser caer tuaaee se ates eR Fiverspeed modelSix sucds vyancancacinaiamieins cacdesea rea aoa eric:

2.5 litres (4.4 pt) 3.0 litres (5.3 pt)

3.5 litres (6.2 pt)

0.75 litres (1.3 pt)

1.0 litre (1.8 pt)

1.75 litres (3.1 pt) 1.85 litres (3.3 pt)

Unbraked trailer 400 kg (882 Ibs)

400 kg (882 Ibs) 400 kg (882 Ibs)

Buying spare parts and vehicle identification Buying spare parts Spare

parts

are

available

from

many

sources,

for

example:

Vauxhall garages, other garages and accessory shops, and motor factors. Our advice regarding spare part sources is as follows: Officially appointed Vauxhall garages — This is the best source of parts which are peculiar to your vehicle and are otherwise not generally available (eg complete cylinder heads, internal gearbox components, badges, interior trim etc). It is also the only place at which you should buy parts if your vehicle is still under warranty; nonVauxhall components may invalidate the warranty. To be sure of obtaining the correct parts it will always be necessary to give the storeman your vehicle’s engine and chassis number, and if possible, to take the ‘old’ parts along for positive identification. Remember that some parts are available on a factory exchange scheme — any parts returned should always be clean. It obviously makes good sense to go straight to the specialists on your vehicle for this type of part for they are best equipped to supply you. Other garages and accessory shops — These are often very good places to buy materials and components needed for the maintenance of your vehicle (eg spark plugs, bulbs, drivebelts, oils and greases,

Vehicle identification number plate and engine number locations

numbers touch-up paint, filler paste, etc). They also sell general accessories, usually have convenient opening hours, charge lower prices and can often be found not far from home. Motor factors — Good factors will stock all of the more important components which wear out relatively quickly (eg clutch components, pistons, valves, exhaust systems, brake cylinders/

/pipes/hoses/seals/shoes

and

pads

etc).

Motor

factors

will often

provide new or reconditioned components on a part exchange basis — this can save a considerable amount of money.

Vehicle identification numbers The Vehicle Identification Number is located inside the engine compartment on top of the front end panel. The plate is marked with the vehicle chassis and designation number and the colour code. Also shown is the maximum gross weight for the car. The engine number is stamped on a flat machined on the engine cylinder block. The chassis number is stamped on the body floor panel betwee the driver's seat and the door sill. :

Chassis number location

General

repair procedures

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work is carried out on the car or its components, it is necessary to observe the following procedures and instructions. This will assist in carrying out the operation efficiently and to a professional standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets Where components,

a gasket

is used

between

ensure that it is renewed

the

mating

faces

of two

on reassembly, and fit it dry

unless otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make sure that the mating faces are clean and dry with all traces of old gasket removed. When cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not likely to score or damage the face, and remove any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file. Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of jointing compound if this is being used unless specifically instructed otherwise. Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes are clear and blow through them, preferably using compressed air.

Oil seals Whenever an oil seal is removed from its working location, either individually or as part of an assembly, it should be renewed. The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily damaged _.and will not seal if the surface it contacts is not completely clean and free from scratches, nicks or grooves. If the original sealing surface of the component cannot be restored, the component should be renewed. Protect the lips of the seal from any surface which may damage them in the course of fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where

possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before fitting and, on dual lipped seals, fill the space between the lips with grease. Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be fitted with their sealing lips toward the lubricant to be sealed. Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the appropriate size to install the seal and, if the seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its face flush with the housing top face.

Screw threads and fastenings Always ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely free from oil,

grease, water or other fluid before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do this could cause the housing to crack due to the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is screwed in. When tightening a castellated nut to accept a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified torque, where applicable, and then tighten further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken the nut to align a split pin hole unless stated in the repair procedure. When checking or retightening a nut or bolt to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then retighten to the specified setting.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers Any fastening which will rotate against a component or housing in

the course of tightening should always have a washer between it and the relevant component or housing. Spring or split washers should always be renewed when they are used to lock a critical component such as a big-end bearing retaining nut or bolt. Locktabs which are folded over to retain a nut or bolt should always be renewed. Self-locking nuts can be reused in non-critical areas, providing resistance can be felt when the locking portion passes over the bolt or stud thread. Split pins must always be replaced with new ones of the correct size for the hole.

Special tools Some repair procedures in this manual entail the use of special tools such as a press, two or three-legged pullers, spring compressors etc. Wherever possible, suitable readily available alternatives to the manufacturer's special tools are described, and are shown in use. In some instances, where no alternative is possible, it has been necessary to resort to the use of a manufacturer's tool and this has been done for reasons of safety as well as the efficient completion of the repair

operation. Unless you are highly skilled and have a thorough understanding of the procedure described, never attempt to bypass the use of any special tool when the procedure described specifies its use. Not only is there a very great risk of personal injury, but expensive damage could be caused to the components involved.

Tools and working facilities Introduction

drives are included in the set. We recommend the + in square-drive

A selection of good tools is a fundamental requirement for anyone contemplating the maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For the owner who does not possess any, their purchase will prove a considerable expense, offsetting some of the savings made by doingit-yourself. However, provided that the tools purchased are of good quality, they will last for many years and prove an extremely worthwhile investment. To help the average owner to decide which tools are needed to carry out the various tasks detailed in this manual, we have compiled three lists of tools under the following headings: Maintenance and minor repair, Repair and overhaul, and Special. The newcomer to practical mechanics should start off with the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit and confine himself to the simpler jobs around the vehicle. Then, as his confidence and experience grow, he can undertake more difficult tasks, buying extra tools as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be built-up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over a considerable period of time without any major cash outlays. The experienced do-ityourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for most repair and overhaul procedures and will add tools from the Specia/ category when he feels the expense is justified by the amount of use to which these tools will be put.

type, as this can be used with most proprietary torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive tubular box spanners are a useful alternative. The tools in this list will occasionally need to be supplemented by tools from the Special list.

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in previous list Reversible ratchet drive (for use with sockets) Extension piece, 10 inch (for use with sockets) Universal joint (for use with sockets) Torque wrench (for use with sockets) ‘Mole’ wrench - 8 inch Ball pein hammer Soft-faced hammer, plastic or rubber

Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver Screwdriver

-

6 in long x 2 in long x 14 in long 3 in long x

% in dia (flat blade) % in square (flat blade) x } in dia (cross blade) ¢ in dia (electricians)

Pliers - electricians side cutters Pliers - needle nosed Pliers - circlip (internal and external)

Cold chisel - 4 inch Scriber Scraper Centre punch Pin punch

Hacksaw Valve grinding tool

Steel rule/straight-edge

Maintenance

and minor repair tool kit

The tools given in this list should be considered as a minimum requirement if routine maintenance, servicing and minor repair operations are to be undertaken. We recommend the purchase of combination spanners (ring one end, open-ended the other); although more expensive than open-ended ones, they do give the advantages of both types of spanner. Combination

spanners

- 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 & 17 mm

Adjustable spanner - 9 inch Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert) Spark plug gap adjustment tool Set of feeler gauges Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdriver - 4 in long x + in dia (flat blade)

Screwdriver - 4 in long x } in dia (cross blade) Combination pliers - 6 inch Hacksaw (junior) Tyre pump Tyre pressure gauge

Oil can Fine emery cloth (1 sheet)

Wire brush (small) Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit These tools are virtually essential for anyone undertaking any major repairs to a motor vehicle, and are additional to those given in

the Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in this list is a comprehensive set of sockets. Although these are expensive they will be found invaluable as they are so versatile - particularly if various

Allen keys Selection of files

Wire brush (large) Axle-stands Jack (strong scissor or hydraulic type)

Special tools The tools in this list are those which are not used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which need to be used in accordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. Unless relatively difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken frequently, it will not be economic to buy many of these tools. Where this is the case, you could consider clubbing together with friends (or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint purchase, or borrowing the tools against a deposit from a local garage or tool hire specialist. The following list contains only those tools and instruments freely available to the public, and not those special tools produced by the vehicle manufacturer specifically for its dealer network. You will find occasional references to these manufacturers’ special tools in the text of this manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing the job without the vehicle manufacturers’ special tool is given. However, sometimes, there is no alternative to using them. Where this is the case and the relevant tool cannot be bought or borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a franchised garage. Valve spring compressor Piston ring compressor Balljoint separator

Universal hub/bearing puller Impact screwdriver

Micrometer and/or vernier gauge Dial gauge Stroboscopic timing light

10

Tools and working facilities

ee

Dwell angle meter/tachometer

Jaw gap (in)

Universal electrical multi-meter Cylinder compression gauge Lifting tackle Trolley jack Light with extension lead

0.315 0.344 0.354 0.375 0.394 0.433 0.438 0.445 0.472 0.500 0.512 0.525 0.551 0.563 0.591 0.600 0.625 0.630 0.669 0.686 0.709 0.710 0.748 0.750 0.813 0.820 0.866 0.875 0.920 0.938 0.945 1.000 1.010 1.024 1.063 1.100 1.125 1.181 1.200 1.250 1.260 1.300 1.313 1.390 1.417 1.438 1.480 1.500 1.575 1.614 1.625 1.670 1.688 1.811 1.813 1.860 1.875 1.969 2.000 2.050 2.165 2.362

Buying tools For practically all tools, a tool factor is the best source since he will have a very comprehensive range compared with the average garage or accessory shop. Having said that, accessory shops often offer excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it pays to shop around. There are plenty of good tools around at reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase items which meet the relevant national safety standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or manager of the shop for advice before making a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is necessary to keep the tools in a clean serviceable condition. After use, always wipe off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away. Never leave them lying around after they have been

used. A simple tool rack on the garage or workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers and pliers is a good idea. Store all normal wrenches and sockets in a metal box. Any measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc, must be carefully stored where they cannot be damaged or become rusty. Take a little care when tools are used. Hammer heads inevitably become marked and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their blades from time to time. A little timely attention with emery cloth or afile will soon restore items like this to a good serviceable finish.

Working facilities Not to be forgotten when discussing tools, is the workshop itself. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some form of suitable working area becomes essential. It is appreciated that many an owner mechanic is forced by circumstances to remove an engine or similar item, without the benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done this, any repairs should always be done under the cover of a roof. Wherever possible, any dismantling should be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at a suitable working height. Any workbench needs a vice: one with a jaw opening of 4 in (100. mm) is suitable for most jobs. As mentioned previously, some clean dry storage space is also required for tools, as well-as for lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up paints and so on, which become necessary. Another item which may be required, and which has a much more general usage, is an electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 2 in (8 mm). This, together with a good range of twist drills, is virtually essential for fitting accessories such as mirrors and reversing lights. Last, but not least, always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available, and try to keep any working area as clean as possible. where

Spanner jaw gap comparison table Jaw gap (in)

Spanner size

0.250

z in AF

0.276

7 mm

0.313

2 in AF

Spanner

size

8 mm

i in AF; ¢ in Whitworth 9mm 2 in AF 10 mm 11 mm

z in AF % in Whitworth; j in BSF 12 mm

+ in AF 13 mm

4 in Whitworth; ;lona in BSF 14 mm

& in Whitworth; 2 in BSF

3 in AF

2 in Whitworth; % in BSF 19 mm

2 in AF

#3 in AF % in Whitworth; + in BSF 22 mm in AF

in Whitworth; 2 in BSF in AF BlANI+0|~

24 mm 1 in AF 2 in Whitworth; 3 in BSF 26 mm 14 in AF; 27 mm

2 in Whitworth; # in BSF

14 in AF

30 mm in Whitworth; 3 in BSF

14 in AF

32 mm 2 in Whitworth; Z in BSF

18 in AF

ig in Whitworth; #8 in BSF ° 36 mm

12 in AF

¢ in Whitworth; 1 in BSF 13 in AF 40 mm; # in Whitworth 41 mm 12 in AF 1 in Whitworth; 14 in BSF 12 in AF 46 mm

18 in AF

14 in Whitworth;

12 in AF

14 in BSF

50 mm 2 in AF

14 in Whitworth; 12 in BSF 55 mm 60 mm

11

Jacking, towing and wheel changing Jacking Use the jack supplied with the vehicle only for wheel changing during roadside emergencies (photo). Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed. When raising the vehicle for repair or maintenance, preferably use a trolley or hydraulic jack with a wooden block as an insulator to prevent damage to the underbody. Place the jack under a structural member at the points indicated, never raise the vehicle by jacking up under the engine sump, transmission casing or rear axle. If both front or both rear wheels are to be raised, jack up one side first and securely support it on an axle stand before raising the other side. To avoid repetition, the procedure for raising the vehicle in order to carry out work under it is not included before each relevant operation described in this manual. It is to be preferred and is certainly recommended that the vehicle is positioned over an inspection pit or raised on a lift. Where such equipment is not available, use ramps or jack up the vehicle as previously described, but always supplement the lifting device with axle stands.

If the car is fairly new, the roadwheels and tyres will have been balanced on the vehicle during production. In order to maintain this balance then the position of the roadwheel in relation to the mounting hub must be marked before removing the wheel. Release but do not remove each roadwheel bolt and then raise the vehicle with the jack. Remove the bolts and take off the wheel.

Towing Towing hooks are welded to the front and rear of the vehicle and should only be used in an emergency, as their designed function is as lash-down hooks, for use during transportation. When being towed, remember to insert the ignition key and turn it to Position |. Expect to apply greater pressure to the footbrake, as servo assistance will not be available after the first few brake applications.

Wheel changing

Tool kit jack in use

To change a roadwheel, first prise off the wheel trim or remove the roadwheel bolt plastic caps.

Rear towing hook

Prise off the wheel trim or the wheel bolt plastic caps to gain access to the wheel retaining bolts

12

Recommended Component

or system

Engine (1)

lubricants and fluids

Lubricant type/specification

Duckhams

recommendation

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range

Duckhams OXR, OS, Hypergrade Plus or

SAE 10W/40 to 20W/50, to API-SG

Hypergrade

Transmission (2)

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80, to API-GL3 or GL4, or GM special oil 90 188 629

Duckhams Hypoid 80, or Hypoid 75W/90S

Cooling system (3)

Antifreeze to GME L 6368

Duckhams Universal Antifreeze and Summer Coolant

Brake hydraulic system (4)

Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703 or DOT 4

Duckhams Universal Brake and

Clutch Fluid

Safety first! Professional motor mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job in hand, do take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to

13 Fire

DON'T rely on a single jack when working underneath the vehicle. Always use reliable additional means of support, such as axle stands, securely placed under a part of the vehicle that you know will not give

Remember at all times that petrol (gasoline) is highly flammable. Never smoke, or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle. But the risk does not end there — a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite petrol vapour, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust. It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Note: Any reference to a ‘torch’ appearing in this manual should always be taken to mean a hand-held battery-operated electric lamp or flashlight. It does NOT mean a welding/gas torch or blowlamp.

way. DON'T attempt to loosen or tighten high-torque nuts (e.g. wheel hub

Fumes

observe certain elementary There will always be following points do not dangers; they are intended

precautions. new ways of having accidents, and the pretend to be a comprehensive list of all rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safety-conscious approach to all work you carry out on your vehicle.

Essential DOs and DON'Ts

nuts) while the vehicle is on a jack; it may be pulled off.

DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral (or ‘Park’ where applicable) and the parking brake applied. DON’T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system — cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant. DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine, exhaust or catalytic converter without first ascertaining that it is sufficiently cool to avoid burning you. DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact vehicle paintwork. DON'T syphon toxic liquids such as fuel, brake fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin.

DON’T inhale dust — it may be injurious to health (see Asbestos below). DON'T allow any spilt oil or grease to remain on the floor — wipe it up straight away, before someone slips on it. DON'T use ill-fitting spanners or other tools which may slip and cause

injury. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. DON’T rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. DON’T allow children or animals in or around an unattended vehicle. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc, and when working under the vehicle. DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs — it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard. DO keep loose clothing (cuffs, tie etc) and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating

adequate for the job. DO keep your work area tidy — it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle’s safety affects that of yourself and others. If in doubt on any point, get specialist advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.

Asbestos

Certain friction, insulating, sealing, and other products — such as brake linings, brake bands, clutch linings, torque converters, gaskets, etc — contain asbestos. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. \f in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos:

Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent. Petrol (gasoline) vapour comes into this category, as do the vapours from certain solvents such as trichloroethylene. Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully. Never use materials from unmarked containers — they may

give off poisonous vapours. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace. If you are fortunate enough to have the use of an inspection pit, never drain or pour petrol, and never run the engine, while the vehicle is standing over it; the fumes, being heavier than air, will concentrate in the pit with possibly lethal results.

The battery Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light, near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery earth (ground) terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source. Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up and when carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water, and never the other way round. Protect against splashes by wearing rubber gloves and goggles. When jump starting a car using a booster battery, for negative earth (ground) vehicles, connect the jump leads in the following sequence: First connect one jump lead between the positive (+) terminals of the two batteries. Then connect the other jump lead first to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery, and then to a good earthing

(ground) point on the vehicle to be started, at least 18 in (45 cm) from the battery if possible. Ensure that hands and jump leads are clear of any moving parts, and that the two vehicles do not touch. Disconnect the leads in the reverse order.

Mains electricity and electrical equipment When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc, always ensure that the appliance is correctly connected to its plug and that, where necessary, it is properly earthed (grounded). Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapour. Also ensure that the appliances meet the relevant national safety standards.

[gnition HT voltage A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the ignition system, such as the HT leads, when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is

defective. Where an electronic ignition system is fitted, the HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.

)

Routine

maintenance

For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication has been greatly reduced if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that, because no such action is required, the items either no longer exist, or will last forever. This is certainly not the case, it is essential to carry out regular visual examination as comprehensively as possible in order to spot any possible defects at an early stage before they develop into major expensive repairs. The following service schedules are a list of the maintenance requirements and the intervals at which they should be carried out, as recommended by the manufacturers. Where applicable these procedures are covered in greater detail throughout this manual, near the beginning of each Chapter.

Check ignition timing Check carburettor adjustment Check steering and suspension for wear, and gaiters and bellows for damage Check transmission oil level Check drivebelt tension and condition Check brake hydraulic hoses and pipes for damage or corrosion Check the operation of all electrical equipment, also check the wiring and connectors Check the condition of the screen wash/wipe systems Inspect all joint faces and seals for damage, deterioration or leakage

Every 18000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months, whichever comes first

Weekly or before a long journey Check engine oil level (photos). Check operation of all lights, flashers and wipers

Check coolant level (photo) Check washer fluid level(s), adding a screen wash such as Turtle

Wax High Tec Screen Wash Check tyre pressures (cold), not forgetting the spare (photo) Every 9000

miles (15000 km) or six months, whichever comes

first Renew engine oil and filter (photos) Renew air cleaner element (photo) Check

breaker

Renew brake hydraulic fluid (annually, regardless of mileage) Check coolant antifreeze concentration

Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 2 years, whichever comes first

and adjust valve clearances (1.0 models only)

Clean, adjust or renew distributor contact lubricate distributor cam (1.0 models only) Renew the spark plugs Lubricate controls, hinges and locks (photo) Adjust rear brakes and check lining wear Renew carburettor fuel filter (10S engine) Inspect tyres for damage and wear (photo) Check front disc pads for wear Check brake hydraulic fluid level (photo)

In addition to, or instead of, the work specified in the previous schedule Check exhaust system condition and security of mountings Check rear wheel bearing adjustment Check the front wheel alignment Check clutch pedal adjustment Check handbrake adjustment and condition of linkage Check headlamp beam alignment

points

and

In addition to the work specified in the previous schedules On ohc engines, check the condition of the timing belt and, if necessary, adjust the belt tension. It is recommended that the belt is renewed

if its condition is in any way suspect.

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage Renew coolant

Check the engine oil level on the dipstick

Maintain the level in the cooling system up to the KALT fevel, when the engine is cold

0.75 litre (1.3 pt) separates the MAX and

Top up or refill the oil through the filler on

MIN.marks on the dipstick

the rocker cover

Check the tyre pressures with an accurate gauge

Engine oil drain plug location

Engine oil filter location

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Top up the brake hydraulic fluid through the filler neck in the master cylinder reservoir

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Fault diagnosis Introduction The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according to the recommended schedules should not have to use this section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried in the vehicle. With any fault finding, the first step is to decide where to begin investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions a little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in

curing a fault (or its symptoms), but he will be none the wiser if the fault recurs and he may well have spent more time and money than was necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more satisfactory in the long run: Always take into account any warning signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period preceding the fault — power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual noises or smells, etc — and remember that failure of components such as fuses or spark plugs may only be pointers to some underlying fault. The pages which follow here are intended to help in cases of failure to start or breakdown on the road. There is also a Fault Diagnosis Section at the end of each Chapter which should be

consulted if the preliminary checks prove unfruitful. Whatever the fault, certain basic principles apply. These are as follows: Verify the fault. This is simply a matter of being sure that you know what the symptoms are before starting work. This is particularly important if you are investigating a fault for someone else who may not have described it very accurately. Don’t overlook the obvious. For example, if the vehicle won't start, is there petrol in the tank? (Don’t take anyone else’s word on this particular point, and don’t trust the fuel gauge either!) If an electrical fault is indicated, look for loose or broken wires before digging out the

test gear. Cure the disease, not the symptom. Substituting a flat battery with a fully charged one will get you off the hard shoulder, but if the underlying cause is not attended to, the new battery will go the same way. Similarly, changing oil-fouled spark plugs for a new set will get you moving again, but remember that the reason for the fouling (if it wasn't simply an incorrect grade of plug) will have to be established and corrected.

Don’t take anything for granted. Particularly, don’t forget that a~ ‘new’ component may itself be defective (especially if it's been rattling round in the boot for months), and don’t leave components out of a fault diagnosis sequence just because they are new or recently fitted. When you do finally diagnose a difficult fault, you'll probably realise that all the evidence was there from the start.

bets tg

Carrying a few spares can save you a long walk!

et

Fault diagnosis

Electrical faults Electrical faults can be more puzzling than straightforward mechanical failures, but they are no less susceptible to logical analysis if the basic principles of operation are understood. Vehicle electrical wiring exists in extremely unfavourable conditions — heat, vibration and

chemical attack — and the first things to look for are loose or corroded connections and broken or chafed wires, especially where the wires pass through holes in the bodywork or are subject to vibration. All metal-bodied vehicles in current production have one pole of the battery ‘earthed’, ie connected to the vehicle bodywork, and in

21

to wait while considering:

parts are obtained.

The items below

may

be worth

Clutch and throttle cables Cylinder head gasket Alternator brushes Tyre valve core

One of the motoring organisations will be able to advise availability of fuel etc in foreign countries.

on

nearly all modern vehicles it is the negative (—) terminal. The various electrical components — motors, bulb holders etc — are also connected

to earth, either Electric current battery via the corroded, or if circuit will be

by means of a lead or directly by their mountings. flows through the component and then back to the bodywork. If the component mounting is loose or a good path back to the battery is not available, the incomplete and malfunction will result. The engine

and/or gearbox are also earthed by means of flexible metal straps to the body or subframe; if these straps are loose or missing, starter motor, generator and ignition trouble may result. Assuming the earth return to be satisfactory, electrical faults will be due either to component malfunction or to defects in the current supply. Individual components are dealt with in Chapter 10. If supply wires are broken or cracked internally this results in an open-circuit, and the easiest way to check for this is to bypass the suspect wire temporarily with a length of wire having a crocodile clip or suitable connector at each end. Alternatively, a 12V test lamp can be used to verify the presence of supply voltage at various points along the wire and the break can be thus isolated. If a bare portion of a live wire touches the bodywork or other earthed metal part, the electricity will take the low-resistance path thus formed back to the battery: this is known as a short-circuit. Hopefully a short-circuit will blow a fuse, but otherwise it may cause burning of the insulation (and possibly further short-circuits) or even a fire. This is why it is inadvisable to bypass persistently blowing fuses with silver foil or wire.

NEGATIVE

18 in. MIN

DISCHARGED BATTERY

BOOSTER BATTERY

POSITIVE

6249

Jump start lead connections for negative earth vehicles — connect leads in order shown

Spares and tool kit Most

vehicles

are supplied

only with sufficient tools for wheel

changing; the Maintenance and minor repair tool kit detailed in Too/s and working facilities, with the addition of a hammer, is probably

Engine will not start

sufficient for those repairs that most motorists would consider attempting at the roadside. In addition a few items which can be fitted without too much trouble in the event of a breakdown should be carried. Experience and available space will modify the list below, but the following may save having to call on professional assistance:

Engine fails to turn when starter operated

Spark plugs, clean and correctly gapped HT lead and plug cap — long enough to reach the plug furthest from the distributor Distributor rotor, condenser and contact breaker points (where

applicable) Drivebelt(s) — emergency type may suffice Spare fuses Set of principal light bulbs

Tin of radiator sealer and hose bandage Exhaust bandage Roll of insulating tape

Length of soft iron wire Length of electrical flex Torch or inspection lamp (can double as test lamp) Battery jump leads Tow-rope

Ignition water dispersant aerosol Litre of engine oil Sealed can of hydraulic fluid Worm drive clips

If spare fuel is carried, a can designed for the purpose should be used to minimise risks of leakage and collision damage. Afirst aid kit and a warning triangle, whilst not at present compulsory in the UK, are obviously sensible items to carry in addition to the above. When touring abroad it may be advisable to carry additional spares which, even if you cannot fit them yourself, could save having

Flat battery (recharge, use jump leads, or push start) Battery terminals loose or corroded Battery earth to body defective

Engine earth strap loose or broken Starter motor (or solenoid) wiring loose or broken Automatic transmission selector in wrong position, or inhibitor switch faulty

Ignition/starter switch faulty Major mechanical failure (seizure) Starter or solenoid internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Starter motor turns engine slowly Partially discharged battery (recharge, start) — see Chapter 10

use jump leads, or push

Battery terminals loose or corroded

Battery Engine Starter Starter

earth earth motor motor

to body defective strap loose (or solenoid) wiring loose internal fault (see Chapter 10)

Starter motor spins without turning engine Flat battery Starter motor pinion sticking on sleeve

Flywheel gear teeth damaged or worn Starter motor mounting bolts loose

Engine turns normally but fails to start Damp or dirty HT leads and distributor cap (crank engine and check for spark) — try moisture dispersant such as Holts Wet Start Dirty or incorrectly gapped distributor points (if applicable) No fuel in tank (check for delivery at carburettor) Excessive choke (hot engine) or insufficient choke (cold engine)

22

Fault diagnosis Fouled or incorrectly gapped spark plugs (remove and regap, or renew)

Other ignition system fault (see Chapter 4)

Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3) Poor compression (see Chapter 1) Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive)

Engine fires but will not run Insufficient choke (cold engine) Air leaks at carburettor or inlet manifold

Fuel starvation (see Chapter 3) Ballast resistor defective, or other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine cuts out and will not restart

Engine cuts out suddenly — ignition fault Loose or disconnected

LT wires

Wet HT leads or distributor cap (after traversing water splash) Coil or condenser failure (check for spark) Other ignition fault (see Chapter 4)

Engine misfires before cutting out — fuel fault Fuel tank empty Fuel pump defective or filter blocked (check for delivery) Fuel tank filler vent blocked (suction will be evident on releasing

cap) Carburettor needle valve sticking Carburettor jets blocked (fuel contaminated) Other fuel system fault (see Chapter 3)

ee

Engine noises

Pre-ignition (pinking) on acceleration Incorrect grade of fuel Ignition timing incorrect Distributor faulty or worn Worn or maladjusted carburettor Excessive carbon build-up in engine

Whistling or wheezing noises Leaking vacuum hose Leaking carburettor or manifold gasket Blowing head gasket

Tapping or rattling Incorrect valve clearances (where applicable) Worn valve gear Worn timing chain or belt Broken piston ring (ticking noise)

Knocking or thumping. Worn fanbelt Peripheral component fault (generator, water pump etc) Worn big-end bearings (regular heavy knocking, perhaps less under load) Worn main bearings (rumbling and knocking, perhaps worsening under load) Piston slap (most noticeable when cold)

Engine cuts out — other causes Serious overheating Major mechanical failure (eg camshaft drive) Engine overheats

Ignition (no-charge) warning light illuminated Slack or broken drivebelt — retension or renew (Chapter 2)

Ignition warning light not illuminated Coolant loss due to internal or external leakage (see Chapter 2) Thermostat defective Low oil level Brakes binding Radiator clogged externally or internally Electric Engine Ignition Mixture

cooling fan not operating correctly waterways clogged timing incorrect or automatic advance malfunctioning too weak

Simple test lamp is useful for tracing electrical faults

Note: Do not add cold water to an overheated engine or damage may result

Low engine oil pressure

Gauge reads low or warning light illuminated with engine running Oil level low or incorrect grade Defective gauge or sender unit Wire to sender unit earthed Engine overheating Oil filter clogged or bypass valve defective Oil pressure relief valve defective Oil pick-up strainer clogged Oil pump worn or mountings loose Worn main or big-end bearings Note: Low oi! pressure in a high-mileage engine at tickover is not necessarily a cause for concern. Sudden pressure loss at speed is far more significant. In any event, check the gauge or warning light sender before condemning the engine.

EN

uaa

ap t

H. 12167

Crank engine and check for a spark. Note use of insulated tool

Chapter 1 Engine For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual Contents

Part A: 1.0 litre engine Ancillary components — removal and refitting ..........scsesresereeeeeens Camshaft and tappets — removal and refitting ...........cscecseeeeeeees Crankshaft and main bearings — removal and refitting ..............0. Crankshaft rear oil seal — removal and refitting .........cecseeeeeees Cylinder head — OVErhaul ..........ccssscssesesesesseessessesesssessseeeseesesseeseseeeeees Cylinder head — removal and refitting ...........cccscsseseesreerenseeeeeeeeneeeens Cylinder head and pistons — decarboOnising ........sssereereereneeees

6 18 20 19 9 8 10

Engine — removal and refitting ........ccsecseserssssereseseerensseseeesncesensnsenes

22

Engine components — examination and renovation ..........sssee Engine dismantling and reassembly — general ..........sesessseesseseees Engine lubrication system — general Gescription ..........eseseeseseees Engine/transmission mountings — removal and refitting ................. Flywheel — removal and refitting .......eeseseeseseserenssssrersssssssnenensssseeess General GESCrIPtiON csc2--0-.:ccacereceenceeteceeosscsevssnssessassdsenssorssansnavnsiterensseoseree Maintenance and inspection ...........ccsssssecsseeesscensscssessceecscsensenssersess

21 5 23 17 16 1 2

Oil PUMP — OVEFMAUI ......... cee sscsessesesesesecencneeseneneseenenessssecssessssssscessaseness Oil puMp — removal and refitting «0... eeceeceseeereerersseersereseereseeesteees

Operations possible with the engine in the CaF .......sessessseesereneene Operations requiring Engine reMOVal ........-sesessereeererserssteneseeseesensssenes Pistons and connecting rods — removal and refitting ..........+.+

Sump — removal and refitting ........csecsececesesesseessesssseesssesenseessenenenaes Timing gear components — removal and refitting «n-ne Valve clearances — AdjUStMENt ........ccsccsesesesesserenensteeseensseseeserenetsesesees

Part B: 1.2 and 1.3 litre engines Ancillary components — removal and refitting ........scsseseceseeseeseersenes Camshaft housing and camshaft — dismantling and reassembly...

13 12 3 4 15 11 14 7

29 33

Camshaft toothed belt — removal, refitting and adjustment..........

31

Cylinder head — removal and refitting ........sseesecereseceseeseeesseseerseetenens Cylinder head and pistons — decarbonising .......-...sssssseesseeereessreeses

32 35

Engine components — examination and renovation .........sseeee Engine dismantling and reassembly — gemeral ........-..ssssssssesseesseeseens Engine lubrication and crankcase ventilation systems — general CESCTIPTION .....csscseccssecesssesesssscseseessassnsnencnseseneneensneneesencavecesonennensnenesensenensans Engine/transmission mountings — removal and refitting ............:+0+ Flywheel — removal and refitting 0... sseesesecsesssssesseneseesssensecseeneasenenens General Gescription .........:.sssssssoresssssssnsssrsssssnsasscasnecseensstancsessersessoesonses Maintenance and inspection .......cscscccsseccssereeesseneeeetsescseteensnsenseeceseeneeees Oil pressure regulator valve — removal and refitting ............:esee Oil PUMP — OVEFNAUL «0... eeseseseseeesesesesseeseesenensnsssusasssatscseesecaneeeeassnenenenes Oil pump — removal and refitting ........ccecerecrerenereeneenseeenesestenesetneneees Operations possible with the engine in the Car ..........sesssesseseseeeseens Operations requiring Engine reMOVAl .........eeceeesereseensseeesesceressesceneees Pistons and connecting rods — removal and refitting ...........:.s Sump — removal and refitting ........ssecsececsesecseseereneeeesenssneasssntenessenseees

45 28

Crankshaft and main bearings — removal and refitting ........0. 44 Crankshaft front oil seal — removal and refitting ...........ceeees 41 Crankshaft rear oil seal — removal and refitting ..........seseeeeeeseesens 43 Cylinder head — Overhaul .......c.scssesecseseseeneceeneeneseenectsneesssssnsereseenesnsaseees 34 Engine — removal and refitting ......cceseceerececssseceeseessnsensessaeensasansneeneess

Part C: All engines Fault diagnosis — ENGINE .....s.secsssecesecereeneeteneeneceeneeeeneerentessnsasecaneeseasenes

46

47 42 40 24 25 30 38 37 26 27

39 36

48

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Specifications

OO Note:

therefore only these are quoted for 7he engines fitted to Nova models are manufactured to metric dimensions and tolerances and

critical sizes, to avoid the risk of conversion error.

Part A: 1.0 litre ohv engine General T Ye ceccsssssersecsecssssssssscsnesnsesaccsncescessecnsenssssassnscaneansennccsscancnsequnsensonnsenscenscanennasensees BOLE cececcecceccescsceccesecscsvescscsscesesscnecacerssssssseseessenessesccasaeecaneusesasanenesacaneacnagaconansnnsat®

Capacity ..reccsssccsssecsssssssessssecsssessnsecsnesssscssnsecsnscssnscnnssecsunequnnsansnncenssssnsssonacsnenseees COMPpresSiON FAtiO ....-scsssecseesseccneesseessessnecnsecsnecensscnnensntennrensnecsscnnnsnsneganeanneess Firing OFer ..sesecseecssessescsessseceneccnscenseesnenssessnecsnscensecsnecancnscnnsssnnecussncascensenaneannnees Location Of NO 1 Cylinder .......scssesssssssceseeesesenesessssserssreenenseeneenenteenrsseeestsees Output (DIN) ..scssssesssssssssecsseccssesenseccsnecsssessnnesssscessusensncnnsnensansnensnncnsensansonsnsegsnts

Four cylinder, in-line, overhead valve 10S (S denotes high compression) 72.0 mm 61.0 mm 993 cc 9.2:1 1-3-4-2 At timing cover end 33 kW (45 bhp) at 5400 rpm

24

Engine

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Cylinder block (crankcase) SUVISO. eda cancsic ae sey svescavocacs dnsnwasateresik Mivadecoteat re naeadl anneae aU NeI AULT PO

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Maximum cGylnden tape .accics.xcseescstscresscaccedoussscogesetocssusteevcessoncoseosdeueutrentees Standard production bore available in 16 grades .........csssesseseteseeseeeeees Oversize bore size (NOMInal 0.5 MM) ...c.cccscescssecssecsccassesesscacnsercessenseesaees

Cast iron, cylinders cast integrally with upper half of crankcase 0.013 mm 0.013 mm

71.95 to 72.10 mm

72.47 to 72.50 mm

-

Crankshaft ESI GREROa Eecrocc be cecaFs once uaeas feel cae eaeemepece ty was sesubesetatiaa taneous icahsascaschveseazenstyareeaeeaeity Nostra DE Ani GS io siecereseecterak Aanessescczeeaesuesuetiovustzcusiasunarearesacendingabhssveziiens Main bearing diarneter — standard: IN? e FOU rival 2c. ersreceree ee ede c aoe xoc docs ss cnceseecntcdupctains beneuwsssachantoseabasspeasay NOS? 2) anid: SiHOUnMallS rseitanscakiescckscnaccdancetcacnacsgteecessteontaueeracetwesdeataancahs Main bearing play: RGN ce cceinsae giesUe pe esac caerda cos deccucenvspanesasubaees ea shavecuamediasueees poqesmebacess ERO GINING 2 cc Seas atu ecaeeasa Gact ashdasaenavaresoaxauheuantskansas eeseeneeanpsmeh Gee nee nces BBG BINNS chrecats tame celcup tezs coca cocest cakensepseaesdvoasust¥as ckodeverhesapspeneaninssuanerraieeaeae Main bearing journals — undersize diameters available .............:cseeees Big-end journal diameter (Standard) ..........ccccscsccsceceessscssesstccesessenessseeeneeae Big-end journal — undersize diameters available ........... csessscesssssesesseeee BiG= BGs ClEAKAN GG) veceiacsvicesccsessasnashsnncsctsnetyiousvast laaecncesuvanvassedivassachoaubecnassaeicec4 IMAXETTUIT OVARY auciisc ccsslvsscsnscvevcgevencdssectochcesseyuecct vedsovsucvetsneevatensr gar cncccostees I AXITTMUAU TADOR cos oss ic ic cs vac osesees sa vacaustondadee cpedgahudccstevan Ganauhguck sdaaumnateaesch veuee

0.09 to 0.20 mm 3 53.997 to 54.010 mm 54.007 to 54.020 mm

0.020 to 0.046 mm 0.010 to 0.036 mm 0.00 to 0.0315 mm 0.25 and 0.50 mm

44.971

to 44.987 mm

0.25 and 0.50 mm

0.015 to 0.059 mm 0.006 mm 0.01 mm

Camshaft EWRGRULO tose Secs ea tcctecsteocccsctonncasccacccursuvgreaves saserssaciodercsanastccenence Mectestastpunaetastacescae

Gamhatt: dive s.c1ctis ieee caeeae cence toda deeoat ee Number of beans trey ors cn Cer hn vee Mie lei A narra Bearing journal diameters — standard: Norsliourmaliis cis. cfcisecceneecacane tasterpe tesecaecmt canesNitec

tenes ee ea ING Des JOLINGANStaak ee ees SaueeSs scion Gasshtoap voce cdatagtes satu dou deeeaaee ome ae ceetiomanen NOZ SOUT Mall i oc-icsccchips catostcomiv aysscce tute cui aesntealuats tives ores ceaeeesbaanaN me ieranny Maximum undersize diameters: NOME IOUEIVEN cc sec an ncsbe.aoup Aleraveck pasties vactlaye smanccacescessus lcsaguanvexe nettentntine te INQa2cFOUTMAN (3 SicFS.e Sessekatee ates, coasbath bode adacuccads su svacabacyeudgnsteh sans unietenstens INOS S TOURMAL Estee terete oe techs ea revues cae aauianr Meareay eau anal Ad a la

0.17 to 0.43 mm Single row chain

3 40.960 to 40.975

mm

40.460 to 40.475 mm 39.960 to 39.975 mm 40.460 to 40.475

mm

39.960 to 39.975 mm 39.460 to 39.475 mm

Pistons and rings FASLOMTY IDE Secs secsicscciseessccscatteecacsece csoaneutedeausuc tccctsineealevccaincels Vis svdevbcadivvccedots NUIMD OT Ofer GS sale cckstencerspacdeaver ecyln vcr sie Soccanncevivssustsoutusouoveves easter nie ons RISLOMEGI AMGEN (ixdd .ccch at ttra cesasscastintcateeraieergrotiecotene tagai cima:

OVELSIZE HDISTONS: sosads ccd case bass So hsevad odesveuctcacceuscaturioddevorslie eatbtook aeccubtaetee nee Gudgeonpin:locationy.cisi ite son eevee Atecrteet on losaaaac tte vslieaes Piston ring/groove clearance: MOP TCOMPHESSIOMN secsccsceaeeesvstsaducencvoes cacksecdvacsuassetectevacyeacdeseeatvengal ladeasens ’ SOCOMANCOMPFESSIOM Re sscvcccrccase cases sascckscseneteroonvoeev ccasencctelearesteee eaeeeceats Ring end gap:

Compression rings ............. Lignan dean sus doeaspieet nade tatunshebenncas cosasotra aead CUTE COREE OUI eee cecazcetscsucwoctoutscasasscstoe sctatapsceulcuncohoueniae pecrenetssat Meaitrons

Recessed head 2 compression and 1 oil control

71.94 to.72.09 mm

0.01 to 0.03 mm + 0.5 mm Interference fit in connecting rod 0.060 to 0.087 mm 0.033 to 0.063 mm

0.30 to 0.45 mm 0.40 to 1.40 mm

Cylinder head IVETE QUAL Fcc So suns folcavue ekigchvantarivasy. tatecdcesudessoboceses raked sapeatestscesiuel sateidavczessuasttoneteaaee Maximum permissible distortion of sealing face .........cceseeseeeesseeeseesees

Cast iron 0.015 mm

over 150 mm

or 0.05 mm

Valve seat width: 1:25 to 1.50 mm

1.60 to 1.85 mm

Valve Valve clearances — hot:

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Comp E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 E8 E9 E10 E11 EIS E14 E15 E16 E17 El E20 E21 E24 E25 E30 E32 E33 E34 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 7 F8 F9 F11 F12 F13 F14 F15 F16 F17 F18 F21

Description RH parking lamp RH tail lamp Rear number plate lamp LH parking lamp LH tail lamp Engine compartment lamp RH headlamp main beam LH headlamp main beam RH headlamp dipped beam LH headlamp dipped beam Instrument panel lamps Luggage boot lamp Interior lamp Glovebox lamp Cigar lighter lamp Reversing lamp Heated rear screen LH foglamp RH foglamp Rear fog warning lamp LH front seat heater RH front seat heater Clock illumination Ashtray lamp Heater illumination control Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Fuse Headlamp washer fuse

Current track

207 208 209 202 203 211 216 217 221 220 211 255 253 173 171 174 178 224 225 233 328 332 261 170 211 372 217 218 220 221 262 240 178, 183 176 312 225, 226 204 210 237 255 270 158 286

Comp F22 G1 G2 H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 H7 H8 H9 H10 H11 H12 H13 H14 H17 H19 H20 H30 K1 K2 K5 K8 K9 K10 K28 K30 K34 K37 K44 K45 K53 K57 K58 L1 L3

M1 M2 M3 M4

Description Fuse, mixture preheating Battery Alternator Receiver Horn Direction indicator warning lamp Oil pressure warning lamp

Handbrake/brake fluid level warning lamp

Hazard warning system warning lamp Charge indicator light Headlamp main beam warning lamp RH stop-lamp LH stop-lamp Front RH direction indicator lamp Rear RH direction indicator lamp Front LH direction indicator lamp Rear LH direction indicator lamp

Direction indicator warning lamp (trailer)

Current track 147 101 114 259 299 249 157 155

246 114 219 240 239 251 252 247 248 243

214 Headlamps left on warning buzzer 154 Choke warning lamp 354 Ignition warning lamp (electronic ignition) 178, 179 Heated rear screen relay 244 Flasher unit 224, 225 Fog lamp relay 278, 281 Wiper (intermittent) relay 284, 286 Washer (delay) relay for headlamps 243, 244 Trailer flasher unit 262, 263 Day running lights relay 290, 292 Rear screen wiper (delay) relay 125, 129 Control unit, idle stabilizer 302, 308 Central door lock relay 151, 152 Dashpot relay 146, 147 Mixture preheating relay 138, 142 Timing control 347, 389 Control unit (electronic ignition) 371,372 Fuel pump relay 110, 111 Ignition coil Ignition coil (transistorized) inductive 128, 129, 140, 339 sensor 105, 107 Starter 270, 273, 276, 279 Windscreen wiper motor 188, 190 Heater blower motor 176 Radiator cooling fan

296

Key to Fig. 13.68 (continued) Comp

Description

Comp

Description

M5

Windscreen washer pump

Current track 269, 275

$9.2.

Windscreen wiper (intermittent) switch

M8 M9

Rear screen wiper motor Rear screen washer pump

295, 297 293, 298

$9.3.

Rear screen wiper (intermittent) switch

M14 M15

LH front window motor RH front window motor

316, 318 320, 322

$11 $13

Brake fluid warning switch Handbrake warning switch

156 155

304, 307 304, 307 304, 307 372 286 311,313 356, 359 183, 184 159 161 260 159 161

$14 $15 $16 $17 $18 $21 $22 $29 $30 So7 S41 S46 S47

Oil pressure switch Luggage boot lamp switch RH door closure switch LH door closure switch Glovebox lamp switch Foglamp switch Rear foglamp switch Radiator fan thermal switch LH front seat heater switch LH front window motor switch Central door locking switch Front heated seat switch Courtesy lamp switch and headlamps ‘on’

157 255 |

M18 — RH front central door lock solenoid M19 ~—_LH rear central door lock solenoid M20 ~=—-RH rear central door lock solenoid M21 Fuel pump M24 Headlamp washer pump M29 ~~ RH exterior mirror M33 Idling control M38 Heated blower motor P1 Fuel contents gauge P2 Coolant temperature gauge P3 Clock P4 Fuel contents sender unit P5 Coolant temperature sender unit

P7 P8

~. Tachometer Oil pressure gauge

164 166

140, 142, 363, 365 140 361, 362

S50 $52 S60 S64 S65 S66 S68

R3

Lambda sensor Throttle valve position sensor Resistor cable

Cigar lighter

363 366, 368 110

R7 $1

Mixture preheating Ignition switch

147 106, 107

P9 P10 P14

Battery condition gauge (voltmeter) Oil pressure sensor Distance sensor

P23 P24 P30

Vacuum sensor Oil temperature sensor Coolant temperature sensor

P33 P34 R1

165 166 346, 247

172

275,279 291, 292, 297, 298

warning Choke warning switch

228, 232, 327, 316, 302, 330,

258 173 | 230 233 176 328 319 303 332

214,215 154

Door closure switch warning lamp Clutch pedal dashpot switch Horn switch

244, 248, 257 151 299

Heater blower and heated rear screen switch Vacuum switch Exterior mirror switch

180, 184 129 310, 313

$73 $78 $91

Mixture preheating temperature switch RH front window motor switch Oil pressure switch

146 320, 323 374, 375

x1

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X2 X10

Connector - auxiliaries Connector, ignition adjustment

S2

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X11

Wiring harness plug

$2.1 Sate

Light switch Interior lamp switch

209, 210 256

Y14 Y15

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Se

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$5 $5.2 S6 S7 S8

Direction indicator switch Headlamp dipswitch Ignition distributor Reversing lamp switch Stop-lamp switch

186, 250, 219, 110,

Y17

Solenoid valve, idle cut-off

Y18 Y24 Y28 Y¥29 Y32

s9 $9.1

Dashpot solenoid valve Distributor (transistorized) Inductive sensor Distributor (transistorized) Injection valve

Wiper switch Windscreen wiper switch

Y42

Ignition distributor (EST)

190 251 220 112 174 240

Current track

269, 272

Note: Refer to Chapter 10, Section 42 for explanation of use. Wiring code as for 1985 models

Various Various 142, 143 138, 139, 335, 339 122

149

151 142 127, 128 131 348 342

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(MOT) M1.S MOTRONIC

Key to Fig 13.73 Comp E1 E2 E3 E4 ES E6 E7 E8 EQ E10 E11

Description Left parking lamp Left tail lamp Number plate lamp Right parking lamp Right tail lamp Engine compartment lamp Left main beam Right main beam Left dipped beam Right dipped beam Instrument lights

E13 E14 E15 E16 E17 E19 E24 E25 E26 E30 E32 E34 E37 E40

Luggage compartment lamp Passenger compartment lamp Glovebox lamp Cigarette lighter lamp Left reversing lamp Heated rear window Rear fog lamp Driver's seat heating mat Light switch lamp Passengers’ seat heating mat Clock lamp Heater control lights Left make-up mirror lamp Right make-up mirror lamp

F1-18 F21

Fuses (in fusebox) Headlamp washer unit fuse Horn fuse Filter heating fuse - Diesel Glow plugs fuse - Diesel Exhaust oxygen sensor fuse (in engine comp) Battery

F27 F36 F41 F43 G1 G2 G3 G6 H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 H7 H8 H9 H10 H11 H12 H13 H14

Alternator Diesel battery Diesel alternator Radio Horn Turn signal lamp telltale Oil pressure telltale Brake fluid telltale Hazard warning system telltale Charging indicator light

Main beam telltale Left stop lamp Right stop lamp Front left turn signal lamp Rear left turn signal lamp Front right turn signal lamp Rear right turn signal lamp

H15

Fuel telltale

H16 H18 H19 H20 H21 H30 H33 H34 H37 H38 H39 H40 K1 K8 K10 K20

Preheating time telltale — Diesel Horn Headlamps on warning buzzer Choke telltale Parking brake telltale Engine telltale Left auxiliary turn signal lamp Right auxiliary turn signal lamp Front left loudspeaker Front right loudspeaker Rear left loudspeaker Rear right loudspeaker Heated rear window.grelay Windscreen wiper interval relay Flasher unit Ignition coil/ignition module

K30 K37 K57

Rear window wiper interval relay Central locking relay Multec control unit

K58

Fuel pump relay

K59

Running light relay

K61 K63 K68

Current track 201 202 213 210 211 319 215 217 216 218 376, 377

L1 L2 M1 M2 M3 M4 M8 M12 M14 M15 M19 M20

249 253 280 278 281 283 224 361 207 365 277 368, 370 2511 252

M21 M24 M32

various 318

333 432 425 527, 101 109 401 411 to 413 268 to 274 331 375 373 370 241 372 378 235 236 242 243 246 245

388

M33 M39 M40 M55 M66 PA P2 P3 P4 P5 Pai P8 P9

P10 P11 P12 P14 P23 R29 P30 P32 P33 P34

P57 R1 R2 R3 R5 R12 R19 R22

S1 S2 $2.1

198, 199, 461, 462, 598, 599

$18

227 to 233

S22

Motronic (M 1.5) control unit Horn relays Fuel injection unit relay

502 to 526 332,333 527 to 530

S29 S30 S37

K76

Preheating time control unit — Diesel

418 to 424

$41

K77 K78 K79 K80

Glow plugs relay — Pre resistor relay — Charging indicator Filter heating relay

424, 427, 413 to 431,

425 428 416 432

S47 S50 $52 S55

K91

Control unit (Multec)

165 to 195, 565 to 595

S64

K97

Headlamps washer pump time delay relay

316 to 318

Coolant temperature indicator 390 Clock 276 Fuel sensor 384 Coolant temperature sensor 390 Tachometer 386 Oil pressure gauge 392 Voltmeter 387 - Oil pressure sensor 392 Airflow meter 517 to 521 Coolant temperature sensor 512 Distance sensor 164, 165, 417, 418, 440, 441, 564, 565 Intake manifold absolute pressure sensor 181 to 183, 453 to 455, 581 to 583 Intake manifold temperature sensor 177,577 Coolant temperature sensor

179, 451,579

Heated exhaust oxygen sensor

526, 527

Exhaust oxygen sensor

192,454, 592

Throttle valve potentiometer

185 to 187, 456 to 458,

Crankshaft impulse sensor

168 to 170, 521 to 523, 568 to 570

509, 510, 585 to 587 P35

380 332, 333 256, 257 380 382 380 24) 247 268, 269 270,271 269, 270 271,272 283, 284 310 to 313 239 138 to 140, 435 to 437, 557 to 560 325 to 327 336 to 340 441 to 459

Diesel Diesel relay — Diesel — Diesel

Ignition coil 117/128, 136, 437, 206, 560 Ignition coil-DIS 158 to 160 Starter 104 to 106 Windshield wiper motor 302 to 305, 308 to 311 Heating blower motor 287 to 289 Radiator blower motor 113, 408 Rear window wiper motor 323 to 325 Diesel starter 404, 405 Driver's door window lifter motor 349 Passenger’s door window lifter motor 353 Rear left door central locking motor 342 Rear right door central locking motor 345 Fuel pump 199, 462, 529, 599 Headlamp washer pump 318 Passenger’s door central locking motor 338 Idle speed actuator 443 to 446, 514,515 Left headlamp levelling motor 292 to 294 Right headlamp levelling motor 296 to 298 Windshield and back window washer pump 328 Idle air stepper motor 172.to 175, 572 to 575 Fuel indicator 384

$2.2

$3 S5 $5.2 $5.3 S6 S7 S8 S9 $9.1 $9.2

59:5 S11 $13 S14 S15 S16 S17

$78

Aerial

267

Resistor cable (1.8 ohm)

Tay

Carburetor preheater Cigarette lighter

124 279

Glow plugs - Diesel

425

Automatic choke Radiator blower preresistor — Diesel Glow plugs preresistor — Diesel Starter switch Light switch

Light switch Passenger compartment light switch Heater & rear window blower switch Turn signal switch Dipped beam switch Turn signal switch Ignition distributor with contact breaker Reverse lamp switch Stop lamp switch Wiper unit switch Windshield wiper switch Interval wiper windshield switch Interval wiper windshield switch

Brake fluid level switch Parking brake switch Oil pressure switch Luggage compartment lamp switch Driver’s door contact switch Passenger’s door contact switch Glove box lamp switch Rear fog lamp switch Radiator temperature switch Driver’s seat heating mat switch

Driver’s door window lifter switch

123 408 428 105, 106, 404, 405

207 to 210 253 285 to 289 216, 217 245, 246 117 281 236 302 to 304 308, 311 308, 311

370 382 373 249 254 255 281 222 to 224 113 359, 361

349 to 352

Driver's door central locking switch

336, 337

Driver's door contact switch

256, 257

Choke cable switch Hazard warning switch Passenger’s seat heating mat switch Horn switch Passenger’s door window lifter switch

380 239 to 243 363, 365 331 353 to 356

327

Key to Fig. 13.73 (continued) S88 $98 $114 U12 U12.1 U12.2 v1 X2 X3 X4, X5 X6, X7 X9 X10 X11 X13 X15 X17 X18

2 stage radiator temperature switch — Diesel Headlamps levelling switch Coolant temperature switch — Diesel Filter heating assembly — Diesel Temperature switch - Diesel Heating resistor — Diesel Brake fluid lamp test diode Auxiliary user (in fuse box)

Main Main Main Main Main

wiring wiring wiring wiring wiring

408, 409 291, 293 420 430, 431, 432 431 432 371

337, 350, 359, 361

harness harness harness harness harness

& starter 105, 106, 109 & trumpet horn 332 & headlamp washer 316, 317 & radio wiring harness 272 to 274 plug connector (LHD) 199, 202, 211, 224, 236, 243, 245, 281, 283, 322, 326, 327, 382, 384, 462, 599 Main wiring harness & Multec (LHD) 372, 447, 450, 462 Diagnostic link 194 to 196, 451, 452, 502, 503, 594 to 596 Octane number connector 190, 458, 459, 516, 590 Main wiring harness & instrument 370 to 390 Main wiring harness & TSZ 134 to 138

X19

Main wiring harness & Multec (LHD)

X20 X21 X22 X23 X27 X29 X30

Driver’s door connector Passenger’s door connector

336 to 350 338 to 354

Left rear door connector Right rear door connector Main wiring harness & alternator connector Main wiring harness & starter connector Main wiring harness & radiator temp

342, 345, 411 to 405,

158, 177, 178, 199,

389, 505, 506, 509, 512, 529, 561,577, 578, 599 343 346 413 410

X69 x5 Y7

switch connector 408, 409 Wiring harness radio & radio connector 268 to 274 Fuel solenoid valve 410 Fuel injection solenoid valves 183 to 191, 518 to 525,

Y10 Y17 Y23 Y32 Y33 Y34

Hall sensor ignition distributor Idle cut off solenoid valve Ignition distributor inductive sensor Injection valve Ignition distributor Tank ventilation valve

583 to 591

438 to 444 125 127, 128, 139, 140 446 501, 555 520

General information

Designation of leads

Lead connections

Cross section (mm’)

1.5

Identification colour Basic colour

WS GE

A framed number, e.g. 359, indicates a circuit in which the lead is continued. At this position there is also a number, e.g. 205, referring back to the circuit.

Colour code BL BL BR

Blue Light blue Brown

GE GR GN

Yellow Grey Green

RT WS

Red White

SW

Black

LI VL

Abbreviations

ABS AC AT ATC AZV BR ce CRC DID DIS DS DWA DZM EFC EKS EMP ETC EUR EZ +

EZV FH GB HRL HS HW. HZG INS IRL KAT KBS KV L3.1 LCD LHD LWR

Anti-lock brake system Air conditioning

No M15

Automatic transmission Automatic temperature control

M25 MID

Trailer hitch

MOT

On-board computer

MT

Check control Cruise control Diesel Dual info display Direct ignition system Theft protection Anti-theft warning system Tachometer Electric folding roof, Convertible Pinch guard Radio (receiver)

MUL N NS NSL OEL OPT P/N PBSL POT RC RES

Electronic traction control Euronorm engine El Plus with with self-diagnosis Ecotronic Window winders Great Britain Rear compartment lamp

RHD S sD SH SRA TANK TD

Instrument

TSZI

Rear screen Rear screen wiper Heating

TEMP TEL TKS

Interior lamp

vVGS

Contact distributor Jetronic L3.1

WS 2V

Catalytic converter Wiring harness LCD instrument Left-hand drive

Headlamp range control

WEG WHR ZYL 4WD

Description Motronic M 1.5 Motronic M 2.5 Multi info display Motronic Manual transmission Multec Norway Fog lamps Rear fog lamp Oil level check (oil pressure)

Optional equipment Park/Neutral (AT)

Parking/brake lockout Potentiometer Electronic ride control Reversing lamps Right-hand drive Sweden Sliding roof Seat heating Headlamp washer Fuel tank gauge Turbodiesel Temperature gauge Daytime driving lamp Door contact switch High energy ignition (inductive) Carburettor Odometer frequency sensor Car level control Warning buzzer Central door locking Cylinder Four-wheel drive

Lilac Violet

328

Chapter 13

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

6, 8*9,!

H. 20561 Fig. 13.75 Prising out exterior mirror glass (Sec 20)

Fig. 13.74 Front suspension strut lower clamp bolt holes (Sec 19) Dimensions inmm

A to B camber change

H.12 8/3 Fig. 13.77 Mirror glass-to-casing connection - later type (Sec 20)

Fig. 13.76 Mirror glass-to-casing connection — early type (Sec 20)

A 19

Knuckle joint

Suspension

Modified components 1 The front struts and the rear springs and shock absorbers have been modified on 1985 models to improve roadholding and comfort. The operations described in Chapter 11 are not affected.

strut the extra movement now provided for the fixing bolts will result in a change of camber of + 0° 40’. 8 Anessential part of this operation is that after the camber has been adjusted, the strut-to-hub carrier clamp bolts must be tightened to 100 Nm (74 Ibf ft). 9

Repeat the operations on the opposite front wheel if required.

Front wheel camber 2 As mentioned in Chapters 8 and 11 the camber angle is set in production and is normally not adjustable. However, it is possible for the camber angle to be found outside the specified tolerance, as a result of fitting replacement or pattern type front struts. 3 Where this condition is recognised, as the result of a front end check, it is possible to alter the camber angle in the following way. 4 Raise the front of the car and remove the roadwheel. 5 Remove the suspension strut as described in Chapter 11. 6 Thetwo bolt holes at the base of the strut should now be elongated by careful filing as shown in Fig. 13.74. Protect the filed edge of the hole by applying paint. 7

When the hub carrier is reconnected to the clamp at the base of the

20

Bodywork

Exterior mirror glass — renewal 1 The glass can be renewed without having to change the complete mirror. 2 __ Insert a wide plastic blade (such as a windscreen or refrigerator ice scraper) between the outer edge of the glass and the mirror casing. Prise the glass complete with socket, from the casing. 3 Pull the adjustment segment from the adjustment rod.

Chapter 13

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

329

Fig. 13.79 Prising out a head restraint spring clip (pre-1985 models) (Sec 20)

Fig. 13.78 Mirror glass-to-casing connection - electrically-adjusted type (Sec 20) A B_

Rods Sockets

C D_

Dust sleeves Knuckle joint

4 When refitting the new mirror glass, connect the segment and rod, and press the glass into position to engage the knuckle joint.

Front seat head restraints — removal and refitting Pre-1985 models 5 Prise out the spring clip from the outboard sleeve of the head restraint. 6 Pull the head restraint upwards from the seat back. 7 When refitting, make sure that the straight leg of the spring clip is

Fig. 13.80 Head restraint spring clip fits with straight side (A) towards the front of the car (Sec 20)

towards the front of the car. 1985 models onwards 8 On these models, the head restraints can be removed simply by pushing back the retaining clip plunger (photo) to release the restraint.

Rear door - dismantling and reassembly

Passenger grab handles — removal and refitting

trim panel can be removed and the door dismantled in the following way. 14 Open the door fully, then unscrew and remove the door lock

9 These are fitted to later models. The handles can be removed from their locations by driving out the centre expansion pins from the heads of the retaining plugs. 10 Use apin punch to do this. The pins will be lost in the body cavity, so obtain new ones in advance to carrying out the job (photos).

11 Pull the grab handle sharply to release the fixing plugs from their holes in the body. 12. When refitting, hold the grab handle tightly against its mounting surface, and drive the new pins in flush.

20.8 Removing a later type head restraint

13.

On four-door Saloon or five-door Hatchback models, the rear door

plunger knob (photo). 15. Remove the ashtray from its recess. 16 Unscrew and remove the three Allen screws

from within the

ashtray recess (photo).

17.

Carefully prise off the escutcheon which surrounds the lock re-

mote control handle (photo).

18

Extract the retaining clip from the window winder handle. To do

this, either insert a piece of wire with.a hooked end between the handle

20.10A Driving out grab handle retaining plug centre pin

20.10B Grab handle released

330

Chapter13

20.14 Removing a door lock plunger knob

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

20.16 Extracting a screw from the ashtray

recess

20.19A Releasing door trim panel

20.17 Removing the remote control handle escutcheon

20.19B Trim panel retaining clip

26 Remove the bolt from the lower end of the divider channel, push the upper end of the channel towards the front of the car and remove the quarter glass complete with rubber weatherseal (photo).

27 Raise the main glass, swivel it and pull it out of its slot in the door. 28 If the lock is to be removed from the door, the glass can remain in position, but it must be wound fully up. 29 Release the lock remote control handle by prising up its end nearest the hinge of the door. Unlock the handle from the control rod (photos). 30 The latch may be removed from the door edge after extracting the three retaining screws (photo).

Modelyear 1989-on

Modelyear 1983-1988 Fig. 13.81 Rear door window regulator modifications (Sec 20) and the escutcheon plate, or pull a strip of rag back and forth behind and under the handle boss. 19 Insert the fingers between the trim panel and the door frame, and jerk the panel clips from their holes. Move the fingers all round the edge of the panel until the panel can be removed (photos). 20 Peel away the waterproof sheet (photo). 21 The cable-operated window regulator is pop-riveted to the door, and its removal will require drilling out the securing rivets (photo). From 1989 model year, the cable-operated regulator was replaced by a single arm type regulator similar to that described in Chapter 12, Section 18. 22 Release the cable clamp from the glass channel, and withdraw the regulator through the lower aperture (photo). 23 If the door glass is to be removed, first disconnect the winding cable from the glass channel, and fully lower the glass. 24 Prise out the weatherstrips from the glass slot of the door waist. 25 Extract the two screws from the top edge of the door. These screws retain the glass divider channel (photo).

31 Reassembly is a reversal of dismantling, but observe the following points. 32 When fitting the main glass, adjust it for smooth up-and-down operation by moving the divider glass channel within the limits of its lower elongated bolt hole. 33 When refitting the window winder handie, locate the spring clip fully in the handle, and then simply tap the handle onto its splined shaft with the hand (photo). Check that with the glass fully up, the handle knob is at the bottom and at 20° from the vertical towards the front of the car.

Rear quarter trim panel and window - removal and refitting Saloon models 34 Remove the rear seat as described in Chapter 12, Section 30. Hatchback models 35 Remove the baggage area cover. 36 Remove the rear seat as described in Chapter 12, Section 30. All models 37 Remove the plastic clips and self-tapping screws which retain the upper quarter trim panel (photos). 38 If rear seat belts are fitted, the belt need not be removed, but the upper anchor bracket must be unbolted so that the trim panel can be withdrawn (photos). 39 The quarter glass and frame can now be removed if the plastic fixing nuts are unscrewed (photo). 40 _ Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Chapter 13

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models|

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20.20 Removing door panel waterproof sheet

20.21 Drilling out a window regulator rivet

20.22 Window winder cable clamp (arrowed)

20.25 Glass divider channel upper retaining

20.26 Glass divider channel lower fixing bolt

20.29A Prising out remote control handle

screws (arrowed)