Haynes Ford Transit Connect Diesel (02-10) Owners Workshop Manual 184425903X, 9781844259038

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Check out our website www.haynes.co.uk to locate your nearest stockist and to view our full catalogue. Haynes Publishing, Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Telephone 01963 442030 ¢ E-mail [email protected] ¢ Website J

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+46 (0)18 124016 © USA

+1 (805)498 6703 © Australia

www.haynes.co.uk

+61 (0)2 8713 1400

illegal Copying It is the-policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities in whichever jurisdiction the offence takes place.

Ford Transit Connect

Owners Workshop Manual M R Storey (4903 - 224)

Models covered Transit Connect variants with 1.8 litre (1753cc) turbo-diesel engines

Does NOT cover petrol or LPG models, specialist bodywork/conversions, or features specific to refrigerated models or Tourneo

© Haynes Publishing 2011 A book in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual Series

pate

sonst

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

ISBN 978 1 84425 903 8

Haynes North America, inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sverige

Contents LIVING WITH YOUR

FORD

TRANSIT

CONNECT

Introduction

Page

094

Safety first!

Page

0°5

If your car won’t start

Page

0°6

Jump starting

Page

097

Roadside repairs Wheel changing

Page

098

Identifying leaks

Page

009

Towing

Page

0*9

Introduction

Page

0e*10

Underbonnet check points

Page

0°10

Engine oil level

Page

0Oe11

Weekly checks

Coolant level

Page

0e11

Brake and clutch fluid level

Page

0e12

Power steering fluid level

Page

0e12

Washer fluid level

Page

0e13

Wiper blades

Page

0°13

Tyre condition and pressure

Page

0e14

Battery

Page

0e¢15

Bulbs and fuses

Page

0e15

Lubricants and fluids

Page 0016

Tyre pressures

Page 0°16

MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing

Page

11

Servicing specifications

Page

1¢2

Maittenangeecbeduia. -° = te 9) PRR) SSeS Ge cel anemmteg Maintenance procedures Pe age 165

Illegal Copying It is the policy of Haynes Publishing to actively protect its Copyrights and Trade Marks. Legal action will be taken against anyone who unlawfully copies the cover or contents of this Manual. This includes all forms of unauthorised copying including digital, mechanical, and electronic in any form. Authorisation from Haynes Publishing will only be provided expressly and in writing. Illegal copying will also be reported to the appropriate statutory authorities.

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems Engine in-car repair procedures

Page

2Ae1

Engine removal and overhaul procedures

Page

2Be1

Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems

Page

3e1

Fuel and exhaust systems

Page

4Ae1

Emission control systems

Page

4Be1

Starting and charging systems

Page

5e1

Clutch

Page

6¢e1

Manual transmission

Page

7e1

Driveshafts

Page

8e1

Braking system

Page

9e1

Suspension and steering

Page

10¢1

Bodywork and fittings

Page

11¢1

Body electrical systems

Page

12¢1

Wiring diagrams

Page 12°17

Transmission

Brakes and suspension

Body equipment

Dimensions and weights

Page

REFe1

Conversion factors

Page

REFe2

Buying spare parts

Page

REFe3

Vehicle identification numbers

Page

REFe3

General repair procedures

Page

REFe4

Jacking and vehicle support

Page

REFe5

Tools and working facilities

Page

REFe6

MOT test checks

Page

REFe8&

Fault finding

Page REFe12

Glossary of technical terms

Page REFe18

Index

Page REFe22

oe4 INtroduction disc brakes on later models. A driver’s airbag

is standard equipment on all models with a passenger airbag available as an option. Front side airbags are a further option, but only in conjunction with a passenger airbag. Security measures are a key feature of the Transit Connect range. All models have Ford’s passive anti-theft system fitted. Shielded locks and Ford’s ‘lock and latch’ system that eliminates all cables between the door locks and door latch are also fitted as standard. A full height steel bulkhead and un-glazed rear doors are available as an option to create a very secure load area. 2009 saw a minor facelift to the range to bring the Transit Connect in line with Ford’s ‘kinetic design’ brief. ‘Kinetic design’ is an attempt by Ford’s designers to convey the idea of movement whilst stationary. These changes saw a new dashboard, front grille, bumper, side mouldings and lights.

Your Transit Connect manual Based on the Ford Focus and first introduced in 2002 as a replacement for the Escort series of vans, the Transit Connect was Ford’s first small commercial vehicle capable of accommodating two ‘Europallets’. The Connect is available as both a short and long wheel base model with a left-hand sliding rear side door as standard (a right-hand sliding door Is also available as an option) and with three payload options from 634 kg (T200) through to the 888 kg payload of the T230 model. Models were original designated Van, L and LX, later to become the Base, Trend and Limited. Initially available with a choice of petrol, bi-fuel (petrol and LPG) and diesel engines, the petrol and bi-fuel models were quietly dropped from the range in 2006 due to low

demand. The diesel engines are all Ford’s own 1.8 litre engines derived from the old ‘Endura’ engines and renamed ‘Duratorq’. Early models (to 2006) were either direct injection models (TDDi) with a rotary diesel distribution pump, or with a common rail fuel system (TDCi). All post 2006 engines are common rail TDCi engines to comply with the Euro 4 emissions standards. From 2010 on an optional diesel particulate filter may be fitted in order to comply with Euro 5 emissions regulations. All models feature the independent front suspension from the Focus range and a multi-leaf spring rear suspension. ABS brakes are standard on all but the early base models. All models feature front disc brakes with either rear drum brakes on some early models or rear

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the vehicle into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and photographed in a clear step by step sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate — if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically. References to the ‘left’ or ‘right’ of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver’s seat, facing forwards.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Draper Tools Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

Safety First! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

|

Scalding e Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. e Engine oil, transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing @ When working under or near a raised vehicle, always

supplement the jack with axle stands,

—_ CR ENR

or use drive-on ramps.

i; Wy =

Never venture

||

= SE

=

e Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands.

Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire e Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). ¢ Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. © Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. e Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock e Ignition HT and Xenon headlight ~, voltages can =U be dangerous, ~ especially to re people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near these systems with 3 the engine running or § the ignition switched on.

be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they can contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

under.a car which is only Supported by a jack.

° Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. e Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Hydrofluoric acid e This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 4000C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and trim panels. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment e Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

/} Remember... po e Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

e Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

¢ Do get someone to check periodically Gi

Special hazards

DON’T ¢ Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability — get assistance. e Don’t rush to finisha job, or take unverified short cuts.

that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

* Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

* Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

¢ Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone Can trip over them. Mop up

¢ Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. e Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

oil and fuel spills at once. ¢ Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

o¢ Roadside repairs The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are

[_]

clean and tight. Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Try jump starting (See next page) using another car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal Is there fuel in the tank?

Has the engine immobiliser been deactivated? This should happen automatically, on inserting the ignition key. However, if a replacement key has been obtained (other than from a Ford dealer) it may not contain the transponder chip necessary to deactivate the system. Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos.

Check the condition and security of the battery connections.

Check

that the wiring connectors

are

securely connected. Pay particular attention to pump connections and the injectors.

j 5 ; Wai ; Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water-dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to damp.

With the ignition off, check the fuses in the main fusebox, and the fusebox adjacent to the battery.

Roadside repairs o-7 Na

Jump starting

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct

HINT

whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are _ three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on.

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: Vv

The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or

alternator itself faulty). The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

4

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

ee

2

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case. Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

Caution: Remove the key in case the central locking engages when the jump leads are connected

If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

-7

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

r-

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc.

os Roadside repairs Wheel changing

yAN

Warning: Do not change a whee! in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic, On busy roads, try to stop in a layeby or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel = it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

Preparation )

|_| When a it is safe |_| Park on well out

puncture occurs, stop as soon as to do so, firm level ground, if possible, and of the way of other traffic,

|_| Use hazard warning lights if necessary,

lf you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence, Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear, Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

a couple of large one being removed stones will do for this, If the ground is soft, use a flat plece of wood to spread the load under the jack,

Changing the wheel

The jack and wheelbrace are located in a bag behind the driver’s seat, The spare

Unserew the nut to release the security cable from the wheel,

out from under the vehicle,

Where supplied, fit the chisel clip to the wheelbrace and remove the cover

Place the spare whee! under the sii next to the jacking point, in case the vehicle

(aluminium wheels) or prise off the wheel

slips off the jack,

Use the wheelbrace to loosen each wheel nut by half a turn. On models with alloy wheels, one of the wheel nuts may be of the locking type — use the ‘key’ tool (a special socket usually provided in the glovebox) with the wheelbrace to undo this.

back the cap, Turn the niople through 90°

to release it and then drag the spare whee

wheel is located under the rear floor, To remove the spare open the rear doors and insert the hexagonal end of the wheelbrace in the guide hole, Turn the wheelbrace anti-clockwise and lower the spare wheel to the floor,

trim (steel wheels) from the punctured wheel.

With slack in the cables, uasorew and slide

Locate the jack head

6 Remove

Wheel

the nats ang

earn

Nt the punctured

Place the whee!

unger

Se

Sif

below the jacking point nearest the wheel to be changed, The jacking points can be Identified by a small arrew on the sill SPHQAvve that the slot in the jack head engages wiih the

sill flange at the jacking point, handle

clockwise

until

Tun the jack

the wheel

is raised

clear of the QFOUN,

Fit the spare wheel, 7 nuts, and tighten the

wheelbrace.

Refit the wheel moderately with

Lower

the

car

to the

ground, then finally tighten the winee! nuts in @ diagonal sequence. Fit the puAckwed wineel te the cables and raise the wiheel back inte position, Do not attempt to raise the cable without

a wheel

will become

attached

RANQISS AN

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Roadside repairs o-9 Identifying leaks Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if an engine undershield is fitted. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

AYN)

Phe smell of a fluid leaking from

the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to remove the engine undershield,

clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil

Oil from filter

Gearbox oil

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

...or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

Towing When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: Use

a proper

tow-rope

— they

are

not

expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. (JAlways turn the ignition key to the ‘On’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and the direction indicator and brake lights work. The towing eye is of the screw-in type and is

located with the jack and wheelbrace. The towing eye screws into a threaded hole, accessible after prising out a cover on the right-hand side of the front or rear bumper (see illustration). Note: The towing eye has a left-hand thread — rotate it anti-clockwise to install it. |_|Before being towed, release the handbrake and make sure the transmission is in neutral. Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

Make sure that both drivers know before setting off. [_|Only drive at moderate speeds and distance towed to a minimum. Drive and allow plenty of time for slowing junctions.

the route keep the smoothly down at

o10 Weekly checks

Introduction There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience

Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save

and expense. These Weekly checks require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example:

yout life. Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these.

If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don’t work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Underbonnet check points A Engine oil filler cap B Engine oil level dipstick C Brake and clutch fluid reservoir

D washer fluid reservoir E Coolant reservoir (expansion tank)

F Power steering fluid reservoir

Weekly checks o«11 Engine oil level Before you start V Make sure that the car is on level ground. V Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

TANTS

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

~

remain in the upper engine

—

_components, resulting in an inaccurate

fending on the eae

The dipstick is located at the front of the engine (see Underbonnet check points for exact location). Withdraw the dipstick. Using a clean rag or paper towel, remove all oil from the dipstick.

Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again. Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the MAX and MIN marks. If the oil level is only just above, or below, the MIN mark, topping-up is required.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the filler cap and top-up the level; a funnel may be useful in reducing spillage.

Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often, and allowing time for the oil to run to the sump. Add oil until the level is just up to the MAX mark on the dipstick — don’t overfill (see Car care)

The correct oil Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your Car is used (See Lubricants and fluids).

Car care @ If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, then the engine may be burning oil. @ Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (See photo 2). If the level is too low, severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

Coolant level

rAN

Warning: Do not attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

level varies with the temperature of the engine, and is visible through the expansion tank. When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be between the MAX and MIN marks on the front of the reservoir. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the MAX mark. aieee coolant

Car care @ With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

@ It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become diluted.

If topping-up is necessary, wait until the engine is cold. Slowly unscrew the expansion tank cap, to release any pressure present in the cooling system, and remove it.

Add a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank until the coolant level is halfway between the level marks. Use only the specified antifreeze —- if using Ford antifreeze, make sure it is the same type and colour as that already in the system. Refit the cap and tighten it securely.

o12 Weekly checks Brake and clutch fluid level Note: A// models have a hydraulically-operated clutch, which uses the same fluid as the braking system.

AN

Warning: e Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. e Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

HAYNES

e Make sure that your car is on level ground. e

The

fluid

level

in the

reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the MIN mark.

—,

The brake fluid reservoir is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the front of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.

Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, holding the wiring connector plug and taking care not to damage the level sender float. Inspect the reservoir; if the fluid is dirty, the hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1).

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use

Safety first! @ If the reservoir requires repeated topping-up this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. @ If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid,

Power steering fluid level V Park the vehicle on level ground. Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. v The engine should be cold and turned off.

Safety first! @ The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

PPNasc)

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

SC

1 The reservoir is mounted on the right-hand side of the engine bay, in front of the coolant reservoir. The fluid level can be viewed through the reservoir body, and should be between the MIN and MAX marks when the engine is cold. If the level is checked when the engine is running or hot, the level may rise slightly above the MAX mark.

If topping-up is necessary, use the specified type of fluid — do not overfill the reservoir. Undo the reservoir cap. Take care not to introduce dirt into the system when topping-up. When the level is correct, securely refit the cap.

Weekly checks oe«13 Washer fluid level @ The windscreen washer reservoir also supplies the rear door washer jet, where applicable. On models so equipped, the same reservoir also serves the headlight washers. @ Screenwash additives not only keep the windscreen clean during bad weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather — which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top-up using plain water, as the screenwash will become diluted, and will freeze in cold weather. Caution: On no account use engine coolant antifreeze in the screen washer system this may damage the paintwork.

The washer fluid reservoir filler neck is located by the left-hand inner wing in the engine compartment. The washer level cannot easily be seen. Remove the filler cap, and look down the filler neck — if fluid is not visible, topping-up may be required.

When topping-up the reservoir, add a screenwash additive in the quantities recommended on the additive bottle.

Wiper blades @ Only fit good-quality wiper blades. @ When removing an old wiper blade, note how it is fitted. Fitting new blades can be a tricky exercise, and noting how the old blade came off can save time. @ While the wiper blade is removed, take care not to knock the wiper arm from its locked position, or it could strike the glass. @ Offer the new blade into position the same

i

Smet RS

soni

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually, regardless of their apparent condition.

way round as the old one. Ensure that it clicks home securely, otherwise it may come off in use, damaging the glass. Note: Fitting details for wiper blades varies according to model, and according to whether genuine Ford wiper blades have been fitted. Use the procedures and illustrations shown as a guide for your car.

H AYNES

If smearing is still a problem

despite fitting new wiper HINT

blades, try cleaning the glass with neat screenwash _ additive or methylated spirit.

S

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the glass until it locks. Position the blade at 90° to the arm and lift it from place.

To remove the rear door blade, lift the arm, position the blade at 90° to the arm, and pull the blade from the arm.

o14 Weekly checks Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

Tread Depth - visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyres pressures been used,

the tyre pressures regularly with cold. Do not adjust the tyre immediately after the vehicle has or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!

Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures -

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s

Repair or renew suspension parts

tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t

forget to reduce afterwards.

the pressures

to normal

Wear

Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks o15 Battery Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in ‘Safety first!’ at the start of this manual.

VY Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. V Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5. The battery is of the maintenance free type. Topping-up is not possible v If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked

case or cover.

Check the tightness of the battery cable clamps to ensure good electrical connections. You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors.

| HAYNES §

Battery

corrosion

can

be kept to

a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and

terminals after they are reconnected.

—

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the battery terminals,

clean them

4

... aS well as the battery cable clamps.

with a small wire

brush and then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post ...

Bulbs and fuses

TMs)

V Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

¥ Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If a single indicator light, brake light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb has blown and will need to be renewed. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both brake lights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 9).

If more than one light has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The main fusebox is located behind the glovebox on the passenger’s side. To access it, compress the check straps and lower the glovebox lid (later model shown). The auxiliary fuse/relay box is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment —- unclip and

remove the cover for access.

/f you

need

to check your

HINT) brake lights and indicators — unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show s they are working properly. ;

To renew a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating (see Chapter 12). Spare fuses, and a fuse removal tool, are provided on the inside of the auxiliary fusebox lid. If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why the fuse blew - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

o-i6 Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures Lubricants and fluids EM GING i. o..nztiie, cue idace meade Cooling Systemitn.

Ne teas o Cea

sacha. os head, « epee

reece atte 3

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 5W/30 Ford specification WSS-M2C913-C

a

Motorcraft SuperPlus antifreeze Ford specification WSS-M97B44-D

ne

Manual transmission ...............2..000ee eee

SAE 75W/90 gear oil Ford specification WSD-M2C200-C

Brake and clutch hydraulic system

Super DOT 4 hydraulic fluid Ford specification WSS-M6C57-A2

...............

Power Steering iscsi eM ariwaauets « Meendemia tines

Ford or Motorcraft power steering fluid Ford specification WSA-M2C-195-A

Tyre pressures (cold) Details of the tyre pressures applicable to your vehicle are given on a sticker attached to the driver’s side door pillar.

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance & servicing Contents

Section number

Section number

PAllatiietolementironewals - css. «$c cc aletetoe bees aelelha w sian dunn Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal ..............0000ee cues Esra KOMUIC MOMOWAll nicrarsaentne aaluic- nem seers antides acoleiy Miaxeara’» s,cit icles Brakeipads, shoes and discs Check cin: .. om. dive Grelh secrele shetetor ones Coolant strength check and renewal..............000 cece aces Driveshaft rubber gaiter and joint check ..............0000000s Engine compartment-wiring check..........0..0.0.00ece cesses ENGINGONrANGTiLOnMTENeWalitncns ceacdcad cea cae sOadiss aeaumen EXMallS MSV SLOMIFCMECK nraet a ocs'c sa ornaicis anata ro alGre e ossbuie esnace Fuel filter water draining and renewal ..............00 eee eeee Senior iM OnmMaOMienines tines Cave arora acetamncce N areunve Mikey omtuldtecetaeee ¢ Fancprake check and adjustMent. 0... ccc. sctncasiassneenesss

19 21 22 8 24 11 6 3 9 18 1 17

Hingeranalockdubrication macvueierisceke stil sere sie cree ere Kightsiandihornioperation/Check env. scl = -eimcrels o)-taneeieyeie tee Pollensfilternenewall ?..:.:.:-thche «2 sys dane Oaeeactereue) sexepenartaiteeecon stayomepene Regularimaintenane s. sce sissouscenetienens, sttaetel fe. 6 > sie wie etelle epennneene Remote: control batteny remGWalliecisr-retersne.-te1e era eters ieeeunee ne eee ROACIOSt a arate, syausta, a misimmusra ensyee h suse cbalcaiahs aamretennaeeroteennae Roaawheelinut tightness: CEC: = -cic « scrcsstarancierave ene dedateteee craener Seat: Helticheck.r. ais ss eigcs wnt segs see sicie steneue che oe ae ee te eae Steering, suspension and roadwheel check ........-...6.+206: himing belt renewal cvs clnau 2% Gale wnpac bootie eee elMeee ae Underbody and fuel/brake line check ..............00eeeeeeee Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition...........

Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

LS EN

A

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with ~w some experience ~

Fairly difficult,

EN Difficult, suitable

eS

N

x

suitable for competent AY

for experienced DIY &

DIY mechanic

mechanic

Very difficult, suitable for expert DIY or professional

13 4 16 2 23 15 14 7 10 20 12 5

12 Servicing specifications Eubricantsand:tluidSs.

5 ok a5 i eepa oa

Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0°16

Capacities Enginevoll(includingitilten) Stirs eset ott

cette orrapens ete

etevgnnkers

Coolingisystem(approximate) |e. sss as anstrctalsee neta etaione enn oe Washernfluidireservoite naar fais cine cretven clare najehe auewe eatin Saar rare

5.6 litres 7.0 litres 4.3 litres

Fuelitanksieeeuumc

60.0 litres

noe oc ae ser

eh

oe

ere ee

Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: OP Guero tate eae ce tuie Cinaeer eRe Ge GacIOI Doclhote Gro ae eee SOOGUAN HNC OZOre er ee eis Hanna ecare eee ec etne der nO CEN Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for latest recommendations.

Protection down to -37°C Protection down to -—45°C

Brakes Friction material minimum thickness:

Brake: padss sean s tances unten ute oe aie srenrecate ees Brakershoes nacre in tattatetrt cee tie eee i ete cde ee en noe

Torque wrench settings Engine.oiidraini Plug ageenwiche sort Geta

«os

Ce mate mete me ane

1.5mm 1.0 mm

:

Nm

Ibf ft

36

27

Roadwheel nuts:

AllOViWNGelSiaemrcke nn mrnrkis ABs chee hiv 5 wae MeN StOelhWHGEIS sareste aon extn hie) tatstoi orate To eee ea hee EI

sreeh oe gi er eee

120

89

90

66

Maintenance schedule 1-3 The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, because

it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, or driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended. When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a dealer service department (or

Every 250 miles or weekly L| Refer to Weekly checks

other workshop recognised by the vehicle manufacturer as providing the same standard of service) in order to preserve the warranty. The vehicle manufacturer may reject warranty claims if you are unable to prove that servicing has been carried out as and when specified, using only original equipment parts or parts certified to be of equivalent quality.

Every 37 500 miles or 3 years, whichever comes first In addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

Every 6000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first

Renew the fuel filter (Section 18) Renew the air filter (Section 19)* * Note: /f the vehicle is used in dusty conditions, the air filter should be renewed more frequently.

|} Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3) Note: Ford recommend that the engine oil and filter are changed every 12 500 miles or 12 months. However, oil and filter changes are good for the engine and we recommend that the oil and filter are renewed more frequently, especially if the vehicle is used on a lot of short journeys.

Every 12 500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first In addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

[j

(|

(|

(]} nl

[| [|

Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21) Check the operation of the lights and the horn (Section 4) Check under the bonnet for fluid leaks and hose condition (Section 5) Check the condition of the engine compartment wiring (Section 6) Check the condition of the seat belts (Section 7) Check the condition of the brake pads, shoes and discs (Section 8) Check the exhaust system (Section 9) Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 10) Check the condition of the driveshaft joints and gaiters (Section 11) Check the underbody and all fuel/brake lines (Section 12) Lubricate all hinges and locks (Section 13) Check roadwheel nut tightness (Section 14) Carry out a road test (Section 15) Renew the pollen filter (Section 16)* Check and if necessary adjust the handbrake (Section 17) Check the antifreeze/inhibitor strength (Section 24)

* Note: /f the vehicle is used in dusty conditions, the pollen filter should be renewed more frequently.

Every 62 500 miles In addition to the items listed above, carry out the following:

Renew the timing belt and tensioner (Section 20) Note: The Ford interval for belt renewal is actually at a much higher mileage than this (150 000 miles or 10 years). It is strongly recommended, however, that the interval is reduced, particularly on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie, mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

Every 100 000 miles or 8 years, whichever comes first Renew the auxiliary belt (Section 21)

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage Renew the brake fluid (Section 22) Renew the remote control battery (Section 23) Renew the coolant (Section 24)* * Note: /f Ford pink/red antifreeze is used, the coolant can then be left indefinitely, providing the strength of the mixture is checked every year. If any antifreeze other than Ford's is to be used, the coolant must be renewed at regular intervals to provide an equivalent degree of protection; the conventional recommendation is to renew the

coolant every two years.

1-4 Component location Underbonnet view Engine oil level dipstick Oil filler cap Coolant expansion tank ®OhOom— cap 4 Screen washer fluid reservoir cap 5 ~Brake/clutch fluid reservoir cap 6 Air filter element housing 7 Fuel filter 8 Battery 9 Fuse/relay box cover 10 Power steering fluid reservoir filler cap 11. Pollen filter — under cowl

1

Engine oil sump drain

plug 2

Right-hand driveshaft intermediate bearing Track control arm Front subframe Track rod end Catalytic converter Front brake caliper Exhaust flexible pipe AAR COND Gearbox oil filler plug 10 Alternator 11 Starter motor

Component location 1-5 Rear underbody view Anti- roll bar Shock absorber Anti-roll bar drop link Handbrake cable Leaf spring Rear brake caliper OND OA NO = Fuel tank

Maintenance procedures 1

General information

1 This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

2 The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results. 4 As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can — and should — be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwiseunrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

5 The first step in this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department.

2

Regular maintenance

be carried out. If, for example, a compression or leakdown test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work

may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test or leakdown test (refer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (refer to ‘Weekly checks’). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (refer to ‘Weekly checks’). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt (Section 21). d) Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 19).

e) Renew the fuel filter (Section 18). f) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 5). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations:

Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (refer to Chapter 5). b) Check the preheating system (refer to Chapter 5). c) Check the fuel system (refer to Chapter 4A).

i1«6 Maintenance procedures

3.5 The engine oil filter (arrowed) is located on the rear of the cylinder block, above the right-hand driveshaft

3.9 The oil drain plug

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 3 Engine oil and filter renewal

‘zRw

1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important preventive maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Before starting this procedure, gather together all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean

rags and newspapers handy, to mop-up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be warm, as it will drain more easily, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 3 Where fitted, remove the plastic cover on the top of the engine. Pull up the right-hand rear corner and the front edges, then pull the cover forwards to release it. 4 The canister-type oil filter is located on the rear of the engine block. Firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Undo the fasteners and remove the engine undershield (where fitted). 5 Move a container into position under the

oil filter, then use an oil filter removal tool if necessary to slacken the filter cartridge initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil from the old filter into the container. 6 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. 7 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw the filter into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only — do not use any tools. 8 If not already done so, firmly apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 9 Using a spanner or socket as applicable, slacken the drain plug about half a turn (see illustration). Position the draining container under the drain plug, then remove the plug completely. 10 Allow some time for the oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle. 11 After all the oil has drained, wipe the drain plug and the sealing washer (where fitted) with a clean rag. Examine the condition of the sealing washer, and renew it if it shows signs of scoring or other damage which may prevent an oil-tight seal (it is generally considered good practice to fit a new washer every time). Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug complete with the washer and tighten it to the specified torque. 12 Remove the old oil and all tools from

under the vehicle, refit the undershield, then lower the vehicle to the ground. 13 With the car on ievel ground, fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (refer to Weekly checks for details of topping-up). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to run to the sump. 14 Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MIN mark on the dipstick. Adding around 1.0 litre of oil will now bring the level up to the MAX on the dipstick — do not worry if a little too much goes in, as some of the excess will be taken up in filling the oil filter. Refit the dipstick and the filler cap.

15 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the low oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the new oil filter and the engine oil galleries before the pressure builds-up. 16 Stop the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter now completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 17 Dispose of the used engine oil and the old oil filter safely, with reference to General repair procedures in the Reference section of this manual. Many local recycling points have containers for waste oil with oil filter disposal receptacles alongside.

Maintenance procedures 1-7 Every 12 900 miles or 12 months Lights and horns operation check

1 With the ignition switched on where necessary, check the operation of all exterior

lights. 2 Check the brake lights with the help of an assistant, or by reversing up close to a reflective door. Make sure that all the rear lights are capable of operating independently, without affecting any of the other lights — for example, switch on as many rear lights as possible, then try the brake lights. If any unusual results are found, this is usually due to an earth fault or other poor connection at that rear light unit. 3 Again with the help of an assistant or using a reflective surface, check as far as possible that the headlights work on both main and dipped beam. 4 Renew any defective bulbs with reference

to Chapter 12. 5 Check the operation of all interior lights, including the glovebox and luggage area illumination lights. Switch on the ignition, and check that all relevant warning lights come on as expected — the vehicle handbook should give details of these. Now start the engine, and check that the appropriate lights go out. When you are next driving at night, check that all the instrument panel and facia lighting works correctly. If any problems are found, refer to Chapter 12. 6 Finally, choose an appropriate time of day to test the operation of the horn.

5

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and _ hose condition

.

EN & S

~

Warning: Renewal of air A conditioning hoses must be left to a dealer service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised. Note: Also refer to Section 12. 1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the cylinder head cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected - what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak. Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual.

2 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber

and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 3 When checking the hoses, ensure that all the cable-ties or clips used to retain the hoses are

accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified.

in place, and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future. 4 Carefully check the large top and bottom

colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems

radiator hoses, along with the other smaller-

diameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, renewing any that is cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed, and may often be apparent at the hose ends.

5 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. If the large-diameter air hoses from the air cleaner are loose, they will leak air, and upset the engine idle quality. If the spring clamps that are used to secure many of the hoses appear to be slackening, they should be updated with worm-drive clips to prevent the possibility of leaks. 6 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with clamps. Where clamps are used, check to be sure they haven’t lost their tension, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps aren't used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 7 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings, etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. Also check the clutch hydraulic fluid lines which lead from the fluid reservoir and slave cylinder (on the transmission). 8 If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath it will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. Place a clean piece of cardboard below the engine, and examine it for signs of contamination after the vehicle has been parked over it overnight. 9 Remember that some leaks will only occur with the engine running, or when the engine is hot or cold. With the handbrake firmly applied, start the engine from cold, and let the engine idle while you examine the underside of the engine compartment for signs of leakage. 10 If an unusual smell is noticed inside or around the car, especially when the engine is thoroughly hot, this may point to the presence of a leak. 11 As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar to clean away the

Vacuum hoses 12 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be

require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 13 Often the only effective way to check

a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 14 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 15 Asmall piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inch inside diameter) can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose near your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the ‘hissing’ sound characteristic of a vacuum leak. Warning: When probing with the VAN vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fue! hoses Warning:

A

There

are

certain’

precautions which must be taken

when inspecting or servicing fuel system components. Work in a wellventilated area, and do not allow open flames (cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc) or bare light bulbs near the work area. Mop-up any spills immediately, and do not store fuel-soaked rags where they could ignite. 16 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the fuel filter. 17 It is not unusual for a high-mileage diesel engine to exhibit a ‘film’ of diesel fuel around the injectors, resulting in an oily appearance. Unless there is clear evidence of a significant fuel leak, this is not normally a matter for concern. The best course of action would be to first clean the engine thoroughly; then, after several more miles have been covered, the source of the leak can be identified and its severity assessed. 18 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word ‘Fluoroelastomer’ printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use nonreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose as a substitute for fuel lines.

iss Every 12 500 miles LZ

8.4 Check the brake pad friction material thickness (arrowed) 19 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be ‘sprung’ during removal. Renew all spring-type clamps with proper fuel pipe clips whenever a hose is renewed.

Metal lines 20 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 21 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 22 Check the metal lines where they enter the brake master cylinder, ABS hydraulic unit or clutch master/slave cylinders (as applicable) for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection.

6 Engine compartment wiring check

a SS

S

1 With the vehicle parked on level ground, apply the handbrake firmly and open the bonnet. Using an inspection light or a small electric torch, check all visible wiring within and beneath the engine compartment. Make sure that the ignition is switched off — take out the key. 2 What you are looking for is wiring that is obviously damaged by chafing against sharp edges, or against moving suspension/ transmission components and/or the auxiliary drivebelt, by being trapped or crushed between carelessly-refitted components, or melted by being forced into contact with the hot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. In almost all cases, damage of this sort is caused in the first instance by incorrect routing on reassembly after previous work has been carried out. 3 Depending on the extent of the problem, damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoining the break or splicing-in a new length of wire, using solder to ensure a good connection,

and remaking the insulation with adhesive insulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, as appropriate. If the damage is extensive, given the implications for the vehicle’s future reliability, the best long-term answer may well be to renew that entire section of the loom, however expensive this may appear. 4 When the actual damage has been repaired, ensure that the wiring loom is re-routed correctly, so that it is clear of other components, and not stretched or kinked, and is secured out of harm’s way using the plastic clips, guides and ties provided. 5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuring that they are clean, securely fastened, and that each is locked by its plastic tabs or wire clip, aS appropriate. If any connector shows external signs of corrosion (accumulations of white or green deposits, or streaks of ‘rust’), or if any is thought to be dirty, it must be unplugged and cleaned using electrical contact cleaner. If the connector pins are severely corroded, the connector must be renewed; note that this may mean the renewal

of that entire section of the loom —- see your local Ford dealer for details. 6 If the cleaner completely removes the corrosion to leave the connector in a satisfactory condition, it would be wise to pack

the connector with a suitable material which will exclude dirt and moisture, preventing the corrosion from occurring again; a Ford dealer may be able to recommend a suitable product.

7 Check the condition of the battery connections - remake the connections or renew the leads if a fault is found (see Chapter 5). Use the same techniques to ensure that all earth points in the engine compartment provide good electrical contact through clean, metal-to-metal joints, and that all are securely fastened. 8 Check the wiring to the glow plugs, referring to Chapter 5 if necessary.

7

Seat belt check

1 Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels. 2 Check the seat belt mountings, ensuring that all the bolts are securely tightened.

8 Brake pads, shoes

-.,

and discs check

SS a

~

w

1 The work described in this Section should be carried out at the specified intervals, or whenever a defect is suspected in the braking system. Any of the following symptoms could indicate a potential brake system defect:

a) The vehicle pulls to one side when the brake pedal is depressed. b) The brakes make squealing, scraping or dragging noises when applied. c) Brake pedal travel is excessive, or pedal feel is poor. d) The brake fluid requires repeated topping-up. Note that, because the hydraulic clutch shares the same fluid as the braking system (see Chapter 6), this problem could be due to a leak in the clutch system.

Front disc brakes 2 Apply the handbrake, then loosen the front wheel nuts. Jack up the front of the vehicle, and support it on axle stands (See Jacking and vehicle support). 3 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the wheels. 4 Look through the inspection window in the caliper, and check that the thickness of the friction lining material on each of the pads is not less than the recommended minimum thickness given in the Specifications (see illustration). 5 lf it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the pad linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the pads, then remove them from the calipers for further

inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 6 Check the other caliper in the same way. 7 \f any one of the brake pads has worn down to, or below, the specified limit, a// four pads at that end of the car must be renewed as a set. If the pads on one side are significantly more worn than the other, this may indicate that the caliper pistons have partially seized — refer to the brake pad renewal procedure in Chapter 9, and push the pistons back into the caliper to free them. 8 Measure the thickness of the discs with a micrometer, if available, to make sure that they still have service life remaining. Do not be fooled by the lip of rust which often forms on the outer edge of the disc, which may make the disc appear thicker than it really is — scrape off the loose rust if necessary, without scoring the disc friction (Shiny) surface. 9 If any disc is thinner than the specified minimum thickness, renew it (refer to Chapter 9). 10 Check the general condition of the discs. Look for excessive scoring and discolouration caused by overheating. If these conditions exist, remove the relevant disc and have it resurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9). 11 Make sure that the handbrake is firmly applied, then check that the transmission is in neutral. Spin the wheel, and check that the brake is not binding. Some drag is normal with a disc brake, but it should not require any great effort to turn the wheel - also, do not confuse brake drag with resistance from the transmission. 12 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexible hoses in

Every 12 500 miles 1-9 the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement (see illustration). Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend

them

double,

or the

casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits. 13 On completion, refit the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

Rear disc brakes 14 Loosen the rear wheel nuts, then chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the car, and support it on axle stands. Release the handbrake and remove the rear wheels. 15 The procedure for checking the rear brakes is much the same as described in paragraphs 2 to 13 above. Check that the rear brakes are not binding, noting that transmission resistance is not a factor on the rear wheels. Abnormal effort may indicate that the handbrake needs adjusting - see Chapter 9.

Rear drum brakes 16 Loosen the rear wheel nuts, then chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the car, and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Release the handbrake and remove the rear wheels. 17 Spin the wheel to check that the brake is not binding. A small amount of resistance from the brake is acceptable, but no great effort should be required to turn the wheel hub. Abnormal effort may indicate that the handbrake needs adjusting - see Chapter 9. 18 To check the brake shoe lining thickness

without removing the brake drums, prise the rubber plugs from the backplates, and use an electric torch to inspect the linings of the leading brake shoes. Check that the thickness of the lining material on the brake shoes is not less than the recommendation given in the Specifications. 19 If it is difficult to determine the exact thickness of the brake shoe linings, or if you are at all concerned about the condition of the shoes, then remove the rear drums for a more comprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter 9). 20 With the drum removed, check the shoe return

and

hold-down

springs

for correct

installation, and check the wheel cylinders for leakage of brake fluid. Apart from fluid being visible, a leaking wheel cylinder may be characterised by an excessive build-up of brake dust (stuck to the fluid which has leaked) at the cylinder seals. 21 Check the friction surface of the brake drums for scoring and discoloration. If excessive, the drum should be resurfaced or renewed. 22 Before refitting the wheels, check all brake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). On completion, apply the handbrake and check that the rear wheels are locked. The handbrake can be adjusted as described in Chapter 9. 23 On completion, refit the wheels and lower

the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

9.5 Check the condition of the rubber

8.12 Bend the flexible hoses and check for cracks

9 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands. 2 Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the new ones are of the correct type — in the case of the rubber mountings, their colour is a good guide. Those nearest to the catalytic converter are more heat-resistant than the others. 3 Check the pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealants should not be used on any part of the exhaust system upstream of the catalytic converter (between the engine and the converter) — even if the sealant does not contain additives harmful to the converter,

pieces of it may break off and foul the element, causing local overheating. 4 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty.

mountings

5 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings (see illustration). Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings.

10 Steering, suspension _

and roadwheel check

WOE

Front suspension and steering 1 Apply the handbrake, then raise the front of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering gear gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration (see illustration). Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear. 3 Check the power-assisted steering fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which would indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration). Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the

Ge

10.2 Check the condition of the steering rack gaiters

10.4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it

110 Every 12 500 miles movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be caused by wear in the hub bearings or the steering track rod balljoints. If the outer track rod balljoint is worn, the visual movement will be obvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can be felt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinion rubber gaiter, and gripping the track rod. If the

wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt at the inner joint if wear has taken place. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting and subframe bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn each way. There should be very little, if any, lost movement between the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column joints for wear, and also check the

Roadwheel check and balancing 11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by ‘kerbing’ whilst parking, and similarly, steel wheels may become dented or buckled. Renewal of the wheel is very often the only course of remedial action possible. 12 The balance of each wheel and tyre assembly should be maintained, not only to avoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoid wear in the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration through the vehicle’s bodyshell, although in many cases it is particularly noticeable through the steering wheel. Conversely, it should be noted that wear or damage in suspension or steering components may cause excessive tyre wear. Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damaged wheels and wheel bearing wear/maladjustment also fall into this category. Balancing will not usually cure vibration caused by such wear. 13 Wheel balancing may be carried out with the wheel either on or off the vehicle. If balanced on the vehicle, ensure that the wheel-to-hub relationship is marked in some way prior to subsequent wheel removal, so that it may be refitted in its original position.

11 Driveshaft rubber gaiter : : “ — and joint check

x

rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.

Rear suspension 8 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands. 9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, ‘using the method described for the front hub bearings (paragraph 4). 10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension component and its attachment point. Some movement is to be expected as the mountings are made of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious.

1 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are very important, because they prevent dirt, water

and foreign material from entering and damaging the joints. External contamination can cause the gaiter material to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s a good idea to wash the gaiters with soap and water occasionally. 2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on axle stands, turn the steering onto full lock, then slowly rotate each front wheel in turn. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber

gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the escape of grease, and lead to the ingress of water and grit into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner joints (see illustration). If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed as described in Chapter 8. 3 At the same time, check the general condition of the outer CV joints themselves, by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheels. Repeat this check on the inner joints, by holding the inner joint yoke and attempting to rotate the driveshaft. 4 Any appreciable movement in the joint indicates wear in the joint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining bolt.

12 Underbody and

fuel/brake line check

SN wy

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. 2 Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. 3 If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs. 4 At the same time, inspect the lower body panels for stone damage and general condition. 5 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips (see illustration). Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage.

ale 11.2 Check the condition of the driveshaft gaiters

AS

12.5 Ensure the pipes are correctly supported in their clips

Every 12 500 miles 111 13 Hinge and lock lubrication

15 Road test

PIE

HUE 1 Work around the vehicle and lubricate the hinges of the bonnet and doors with a light machine oil. 2 Check carefully the security and operation of all hinges, latches and locks, adjusting them where required. Check the operation of the central locking system (if fitted).

14 Roadwheel nut tightness check

Braking system 1 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to

one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock when braking hard on models with ABS. 2 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. On models equipped with ABS brakes, if vibration is felt through the pedal under heavy braking, this is a normal characteristic of the system operation, and is not a cause for concern.

Kl 3 1 Checking the tightness of the wheel nuts is more relevant than you might think. Apart from the obvious safety aspect of ensuring they are sufficiently tight, this check will reveal whether they have been overtightened, as may have happened the last time new tyres were fitted, for example. If the car suffers a puncture, you may find that the wheel nuts cannot be loosened with the wheelbrace. 2 Apply the handbrake, chock the wheels, and engage 1st gear. 3 Remove the wheel cover (or wheel centre cover), using the flat end of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit. 4 Loosen the first wheel nut, using the wheelbrace if possible. If the nut proves

stubborn, use a close-fitting socket and a long extension bar. Warning: Do not use makeshift

A

means to loosen the wheel nuts if

the proper tools are not available. If extra force is required, make sure that the tools fit properly, and are of good quality. Even so, consider the consequences of the tool slipping or breaking, and take precautions - wearing stout gloves is advisable to protect your hands. Do not be tempted to stand on the tools used - they are not designed for this, and there is a high risk of personal injury if the tool slips or breaks. If the wheel nuts are simply too tight, take the car to a garage equipped with suitable power tools. 5 Once the nut has been loosened, remove it and check that the wheel stud threads are clean. Use a small wire brush to clean any rust or dirt from the threads, if necessary.

6 Refit the nut, with the tapered side facing inwards. Tighten it fully, using the wheelbrace alone — no other tools. This will ensure that the wheel nuts can be loosened using the wheelbrace if a puncture occurs. However, if a torque wrench is available, tighten the nut to the specified torque wrench setting. 7 Repeat the procedure for the remaining nuts, then refit the wheel cover or centre cover, as applicable. 8 Work around the car, checking and retightening the nuts for all four wheels.

Check that the handbrake operates correctly, without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope, in both directions (facing up and down a slope). 4 With the engine switched off, test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. Depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable ‘give’ in the brake pedal as vacuum builds-up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is now depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably harder.

Steering and suspension 5 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road ‘feel’. 6 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 7 Check that the steering feels

when cold and when hot. Observe the glow plug warning light, and check that it comes on and goes off correctly. 10 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine and transmission. 11 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating. 12 Check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is smooth and not abnormally vague or ‘notchy’. 13 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear ina driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint if necessary.

Clutch 14 Check that the clutch pedal moves smoothly and easily through its full travel, and that the clutch itself functions correctly, with no trace of slip or drag. 15 Ifthe clutch is slow to release, it is possible that the system requires bleeding (see Chapter 6). Also check the fluid pipes under the bonnet for signs of leakage. 16 Check the clutch as described in Chapter 6, Section 2.

Instruments and electrical equipment 17 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 18 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.

16 Pollen filter renewal

positive,

HOE

with no excessive sloppiness or roughness,

and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.

9 Check that the engine starts correctly, both

1 The pollen filter is located below the windscreen cowl panel on the left-hand side. 2 Open the bonnet and pull free the rubber seal — complete removal is not required. 3 Release the screws and remove the lefthand cowl panel (see illustrations).

16.3a Remove the screws...

16.3b ... and remove the cowl

Drivetrain 8 Check the performance of the engine, transmission and driveshafts.

1912 Every 12 500 miles 4 Remove the water channel from below the windscreen (see illustrations). 5 Release the clips and remove the pollen filter (see illustration). 6 Fit the new filter using a reversal of the removal procedure, ensuring that the filter is fitted with the airflow arrows pointing into the cabin. Note that some filters are marked ‘up’ and not ‘airflow’ (see illustration).

17 Handbrake check and adjustment 16.4b ... then remove the water channel

In service, the handbrake should be fully applied within 3 to 5 clicks of the handbrake lever ratchet. Should adjustment be necessary, refer to Chapter 9 for the full procedure description.

16.5 Release the clips and remove the filter

16.6 Observe the fitting instructions on the new filter

Every 37 500 miles or 3 years 18 Fuel filter water : draining and renewal

4 Slacken the drain nipple, release one of the fuel lines from the filter and allow the fuel to drain until it appears clean and free from water droplets. Tighten the bleed screw and drain nipple. 5 Remove the hose, and bleed the fuel system as described in Chapter 4A.

Wie Water draining 1 The fuel filter is located at the on the righthand front suspension tower. 2 Some models have a drain plug fitted to the fuel filter, others have a sensor fitted to the bottom of the filter and have no drain facility. 3 Position a container or cloth beneath the filter, then attach a length of plastic/rubber hose to the drain nipple, with the other end of the hose in a container.

18.6 Prise open the clips and release the fuel lines

Filter renewal 6 Release each fuel line in turn (see illustration). Note that fuel filters on TDDi engines have a ‘horseshoe’ clip retainer fitted. Plug and seal both the filter and the fuel lines. 7 Use a screwdriver to release the filter and support bracket as one complete assembly (see illustration).

18.7 Release the mounting clip (arrowed)

8 Where fitted disconnect the wiring plug from the base of the filter. 9 With the filter on the bench, unscrew and remove the bracket (see illustration). Note the orientation of the bracket to the filter. 10 Fit the new filter to the mounting bracket. 11 On TDDi vehicles fit a new seal to the fuel line that is retained by the ‘horseshoe’ clip. 12 Where possible prime the new filter with fresh fuel and refit the sealing caps. 13 Slide the filter into position and refit the fuel lines. 14 The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal. Bleed the fuel system as described in Chapter 4A.

18.9 Remove the mounting bracket. Note the alignment mark (arrowed)

Every 37 500 miles 1-13

oS

19.2 Disconnect the sensor wiring plug

149 Air filterelement renewal

wR Ww ~

Caution: Never drive the vehicle with the air cleaner filter element removed. Excessive

engine wear could result, and backfiring could even cause a fire under the bonnet.

19.3 Remove the bolts

19.4 Remove the fiiter

1 The air filter element is located in the air cleaner assembly on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. 2 Disconnect the wiring plug from the mass airflow meter/air temperature sensor (see illustration). 3 Undo the bolts, and lift the filter cover from place (see illustration). 4 Note which way round it’s fitted, then lift

the air filter element from the housing (see illustration).

5 Wipe clean the inner surfaces of the cover and main housing, then locate the new element in the housing, making sure that the sealing lip is correctly engaged with the edge of the housing. 6 Refit the filter cover and tighten the bolts. 7 Reconnect the wiring plug.

Every 62 500 miles The procedure is described in Chapter 2A.

20 Timing belt renewal —

Every 100 000 miles or 8 years 21 Auxiliary drivebelt

UWS S

check and renewal

Drivebelt check 1 A single auxiliary drivebelt is fitted at the right-hand side of the engine. An automatic adjuster is fitted, so checking the drivebelt tension is unnecessary. 2 Due to their function and material make-up,

21.5 Inspect the drivebelt

If sections are missing renew the belt Small deposits in the grooves are not a concern Small scattered deposits are not a concern Deposits up to half the of the rib height: renew the belt if noisy Deposits up to half the of the rib height: renew the belt if noisy Heavy deposits: renew the belt Heavy deposits: renew the belt

@

drivebelts are prone to failure after a long period

of time,

and

should

therefore

be

inspected regularly. 3 Since the drivebelt is located very close to the right-hand side of the engine compartment, it is possible to gain better access by raising the front of the vehicle, undoing the fasteners and removing the belt cover. 4 With the engine stopped, inspect the full length of the drivebelt for cracks and separation of the belt plies. It will be necessary to turn the engine (using a spanner or socket and bar on

the crankshaft pulley bolt) in order to move the belt from the pulleys so that the belt can be inspected thoroughly. Twist the belt between the pulleys so that both sides can be viewed. Also check for fraying and glazing which gives the belt a shiny appearance. Check the pulleys for nicks, cracks, distortion and corrosion. 5 Note that it is not unusual for a ribbed belt to exhibit small cracks in the edges of the belt ribs, and unless these are extensive or very deep, belt renewal is not essential (see illustration).

114 Every 100 000 miles

J48357

J48358 21.9b ... and with air conditioning

21.9a The belt routing without air conditioning...

Drivebelt renewal 6 To remove the drivebelt, first raise the front

of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 7 Remove the left-hand front roadwheel.

21.10 Use a spanner to rotate the tensioner

8 Unbolt and remove the protective cover

belt (see illustration). Remove the belt from

from the chassis leg.

the pulleys. 11 Fit the new belt to the pulleys, ensuring they are correctly seated in the pulley grooves.

9 Note how the belt is routed (see illustrations).

10 Using a long reach spanner, rotate the automatic tensioner clockwise to release the

Every 2 years, regardless of mileage Warning: Do not siphon the fluid by mouth; it is poisonous.

22 Brake fluid renewal es

as described in Chapter 9, open Hil3theWorking first bleed screw in the sequence, and

Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme

caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some

time,

as it absorbs

moisture

from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. Brake fluid is also highly flammable - treat it with the same respect as fuel. 1 The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9. 2 Reduce the fluid level in the reservoir (by siphoning or using a poultry baster), but do not allow the fluid level to drop far enough to allow air into the system - if air enters the ABS hydraulic unit, the unit may need be bled using special Ford test equipment (see Chapter 9).

pump the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been emptied from the master cylinder reservoir. Top-up to the MAX level with new fluid, and continue pumping until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the MAX level line. Old hydraulic fluid is invariably much darker in colour than the new, making it easy to distinguish the two. 4 Work through all the remaining bleed screws in the sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of them. Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN level at all times, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation is complete, check that all bleed screws are securely tightened, and

that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the master cylinder reservoir fluid level. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road. 7 Finally, check the operation of the clutch. Since the clutch shares the same fluid reservoir as the braking system, it may also be necessary to bleed the clutch as described in Chapter 6.

23 Remote control battery renewal

&

x

1 Although not in the Ford maintenance schedule, we recommend that the battery is changed every 2 years, regardless of the vehicle’s mileage. However, if the door locks repeatedly fail to respond to signals from the remote control at the normal distance, change the battery in the remote control before attempting to troubleshoot any of the vehicle’s other systems.

Type 7 2 Press the button to release the key blade. On passive type controls, remove the spare key. 3 On non-passive type controls, insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot provided, push the screwdriver towards the key blade, and carefully prise the 2 halves of the control apart (see illustrations). 4 On both types of control, insert a screwdriver as shown and separate the two halves (see illustration). is

23.3a Insert a screwdriver into the slot...

gs

ss

23.3b .. . and prise apart the 2 halves

5 Note the fitted position of the battery (positive side down), then prise the battery from place, and insert the new one (see

Every 2 years 1«15

}

it

23.4 Separate the 2 halves

23.5 The battery fits positive side down

illustration). Avoid touching the battery or the terminals with bare fingers. 6 Snap the 2 halves of the control together. 7 Refit the key blade, and check for correct operation.

Type 2 8 Insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot provided and slide the transmitter unit from the key (see illustration). 9 Use the screwdriver to release the clip each side and open the transmitter unit (see illustration). 10 Note the fitted position of the battery (positive side up), then prise the battery from place, and insert the new one (see illustration). Avoid touching the battery or the terminals with bare fingers. 11 Snap the 2 halves of the transmitter together, and re-attach it to the key.

KISE

Warning: Do not allow antifreeze A to come in contact with your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Flush contaminated areas immediately with plenty of water. Don’t store new coolant, or leave old coolant lying around, where it’s accessible to children or pets — they’re attracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion of even a small amount of coolant can be fatal. Wipe up garage floor and drip-pan spills immediately. Keep antifreeze containers covered, and repair cooling system leaks as soon as they’re noticed. Warning: Never remove the

A

expansion tank filler cap when the

engine is running, or has just been switched off, as the cooling system will be hot, and the consequent escaping steam and scalding coolant could cause serious

injury. Warning:

A

23.10 The battery fits positive side up

year. If any antifreeze other than Ford’s is to be used, the coolant must be renewed at regular intervals to provide an equivalent degree of protection; the conventional recommendation is to renew the coolant every two years.

as follows whenever any part of it is disturbed, and/or when the coolant is renewed. 7 With the coolant drained, refit the drain plug and refill the system with fresh water. Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature, then stop it and (after allowing it to cool down completely) drain the system again. Repeat as necessary until only clean water can be seen to emerge, then refill finally with the specified coolant mixture. 8 If only clean, soft water and good-quality antifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification) has been used, and the coolant has been renewed at the suggested intervals, the above procedure will be sufficient to keep clean the system for a considerable length of time. If, however, the system has been neglected, a more thorough operation will be required, as follows. 9 First drain the coolant, then disconnect the

Strength check

24 Coolant strength —

___ Check and renewal

23.9 Release the clip each side (arrowed)

Wait until the engine

is cold before starting these procedures.

Note: /f Ford pink/red antifreeze is used, the coolant can then be left indefinitely, providing the strength of the mixture is checked every

1 Use a hydrometer to check the strength of the antifreeze. Follow the instructions provided with your hydrometer. The antifreeze strength should be approximately 50%. If it is significantly less than this, drain a little coolant from the radiator (see this Section), add antifreeze to the coolant expansion tank, then recheck the strength.

Coolant draining 2 To drain the system, first remove the expansion tank filler cap. 3 If the additional working clearance is required, raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). 4 Place

a

large

drain

tray

underneath,

and unscrew the radiator drain plug (see illustration); direct as much of the escaping coolant as possible into the tray. 5 Once the coolant has stopped draining from the radiator, close the drain plug.

System flushing 6 With time, the cooling system may gradually lose its efficiency, as the radiator core becomes choked with rust, scale deposits from the water, and other sediment. To minimise this, as well as using only good-quality antifreeze and clean soft water, the system should be flushed

24.4 Undo the drain plug from the left-hand lower corner of the radiator (arrowed)

isi6 Every 2 years radiator top and bottom hoses. Insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose connection, and allow water to circulate through the radiator until it runs clean from the bottom outlet.

10 To flush the engine, insert the garden hose into the radiator bottom hose, wrap a piece of rag around the garden hose to seal the connection, and allow water to circulate until it runs clear. 11 Try the effect of repeating this procedure in the top hose, although this may not be effective, since the thermostat will probably close and prevent the flow of water. 12 In severe cases of contamination, reverseflushing of the radiator may be necessary. This may be achieved by inserting the garden hose into the bottom outlet, wrapping a piece of rag around the hose to seal the connection, then flushing the radiator until clear water emerges from the top hose outlet. 13 If the radiator is suspected of being severely choked, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), turn it upside-down, and repeat the procedure described in paragraph 12. 14 Flushing the heater matrix can be achieved using a similar procedure to that described in paragraph 12, once the heater inlet and outlet hoses have been identified. These two hoses will be of the same diameter, and pass through the engine compartment bulkhead (refer to the heater matrix removal procedure in Chapter 3

for more details). 15 The use of chemical cleaners is not recommended, and should be necessary only as a last resort; the scouring action of some chemical cleaners may lead to other cooling system problems. Normally, regular renewal of the coolant will prevent excessive contamination of the system.

Coolant filling 16 With the cooling system drained and flushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unions are correctly secured, and that the radiator/ engine drain plug(s) is securely tightened. If it was raised, lower the vehicle to the ground. 17 Prepare a sufficient quantity of the specified coolant mixture (see below); allow for a surplus, so as to have a reserve supply for topping-up. 18 Ford recommend removing one of the heater matrix hoses and using a funnel and length of hose to fill the matrix first. 19 Refit the hose and slowly fill the system through the expansion tank. Since the tank is the highest point in the system, all the air in the system should be displaced into the tank by the rising liquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility of air being trapped and forming airlocks. 20 Continue filling until the coolant level reaches the expansion tank MAX level line (see Weekly checks), then cover the filler opening to prevent coolant splashing out. 21 Start the engine and run it at idle speed, until it has warmed-up to normal operating temperature and the radiator electric cooling fan has cut in; watch the temperature gauge

to check for signs of overheating. If the level in the expansion tank drops significantly, top-up to the MAX level line to minimise the amount of air circulating in the system. 22 Stop the engine, wash off any spilt coolant from the engine compartment and bodywork, then leave the car to cool down completely (overnight, if possible). 23 With the system cool, uncover the expansion tank filler opening, and top-up the tank to the MAX level line. Refit the filler cap, tightening it securely, and clean up any further spillage. 24 After refilling, always check carefully all components of the system (but especially any unions disturbed during draining and flushing) for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze has a searching action, which will rapidly expose

General cooling system checks

32 The engine should be cold for the cooling system checks, so perform the following procedure before driving the vehicle, or after it has been shut off for at least three hours. 33 Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and clean it thoroughly inside and out with a rag. Also clean the filler neck on the expansion tank. The presence of rust or corrosion in the filler neck indicates that the coolant should be changed. The coolant inside the expansion tank should be relatively clean and transparent. If it is rust-coloured, drain and flush the system, and refill with a fresh coolant mixture. 34 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length; renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated (see Section 5). any weak points in the system. 35 Inspect all other cooling system components (joint faces, etc) for leaks. A Antifreeze type and mixture leak in the cooling system will usually show Note: Do not use engine antifreeze in the - up as white- or antifreeze-coloured deposits windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will on the area adjoining the leak. Where any damage the vehicle’s paintwork. A screenwash problems of this nature are found on system additive should be added to the washer system components, renew the component or gasket in its maker’s recommended quantities. with reference to Chapter 3. 25 If the vehicle’s history (and therefore the 36 Clean the front of the radiator with a quality of the antifreeze in it) is unknown, soft brush to remove all insects, leaves, etc, owners are advised to drain and thoroughly embedded in the radiator fins. Be careful not reverse-flush the system, before refilling with to damage the radiator fins, or cut your fingers fresh coolant mixture. on them. To do a more thorough job, remove 26 If the antifreeze used is to Ford’s the radiator grille as described in Chapter 11. specification, the levels of protection it affords Airlocks are indicated in the coolant packaging. 27 To give the recommended standard 37 lf, after draining and refilling the system, mixture ratio for antifreeze, 50% (by volume) symptoms of overheating are found which did of antifreeze must be mixed with 50% of not occur previously, then the fault is almost clean, soft water; if you are using any other certainly due to trapped air at some point in type of antifreeze, follow its manufacturer’s the system, causing an airlock and restricting instructions to achieve the correct ratio. the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped 28 You are unlikely to fully drain the system because the system was refilled too quickly. at any one time (unless the engine is being 38 If an airlock is suspected, first try gently completely stripped), and the capacities squeezing all visible coolant hoses. A coolant quoted in Specifications are therefore slightly hose which is full of air feels quite different to academic for routine coolant renewal. As a one full of coolant when squeezed. After refilling guide, only two-thirds of the system’s total the system, most airlocks will clear once the capacity is likely to be needed for coolant system has cooled, and been topped-up. renewal. 39 While the engine is running at operating 29 As the drained system will be partially temperature, switch on the heater and heater filled with flushing water, in order to establish fan, and check for heat output. Provided there the recommended mixture ratio, measure out is sufficient coolant in the system, lack of 50% of the system capacity in antifreeze and heat output could be due to an airlock in the pour it into the expansion tank as described system. above, then top-up with water. Any topping-up 40 Airlocks can have more serious effects while refilling the system should be done with than simply reducing heater output — a severe water — for Weekly checks use a suitable airlock could reduce coolant flow around the mixture. engine. Check that the radiator top hose is hot 30 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling when the engine is at operating temperature — system should be drained, preferably flushed, atop hose which stays cold could be the result and all hoses checked for condition and of an airlock (or a non-opening thermostat). security. As noted earlier, fresh antifreeze will 41 If the problem persists, stop the engine rapidly find any weaknesses in the system. and allow it to cool down completely before 31 After filling with antifreeze, a label should unscrewing the expansion tank filler cap or be attached to the expansion tank, stating the loosening the hose clips and squeezing the type and concentration of antifreeze used, and hoses to bleed out the trapped air. In the the date installed. Any subsequent topping-up worst case, the system will have to be at should be made with the same type and least partially drained (this time, the coolant concentration of antifreeze. can be saved for re-use) and flushed to clear

Every 2 years 1417 the problem. If all else fails, have the system evacuated and vacuum filled by a suitablyequipped garage.

Expansion tank cap check 42 Wait until the engine is completely cold — perform this check before the engine is started for the first time in the day.

43 Place a wad of cloth over the expansion tank cap, then unscrew it slowly and remove it. 44 Examine the condition of the rubber seal on the underside of the cap. If the rubber appears to have hardened, or cracks are visible in the seal edges, a new cap should be fitted.

45 |f the car is several years old, or has covered a large mileage, consider renewing the cap regardless of its apparent condition -— they are not expensive. If the pressure relief valve built into the cap fails, excess pressure in the system will lead to puzzling failures of hoses and other cooling system components.

4018

Notes

2Ae1

Chapter 2 Part A: Engine in-car repair procedures Contents

Section number

Camshaft and cam followers — removal, inspection and refitting ... 9 MMISAlOlSCall—TENOWal wists s whence Cee aa oe eee en 10 Compression and leakdown tests — description and interpretation.. 2 Seranksharny olliseals renewal c/o c5.6 Ge gw ance wpese ecg saree ee pie 16 Crankshaft pulley — removal and refitting...................00.

6

Cylinder head — removal, inspection and refitting ............... 11 Cylinder head cover — removal and refitting.................... 4 Engine/transmission mountings — inspection and renewal ........ 18 Flywheel — removal, inspection and refitting ................... 17 Ser MCN MRUOIMAUON eeesPewekcie ve (atare os cscsce aye & cushy euavoutiic ic» temsoderal 1

Section number Oil\cocler— removal andirefitting.....:.....0.¢s2..-+0 + onepeoe

15

Oil pressure warning light switch — removal and refitting.......... Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting.................-Setting the engine to Top Dead Centre (TDC) on No 1 cylinder.....

14 13 3

Sump removal andirefittinG®vacu cite erie seer cee eae 12 Timing'belt'—removal and retittinG= s0 5+ < snle ene leche arletaies 7 Timing belt tensioner and sprockets — removal, inspection and KETIECIMG c.8 Sicpencvs 85d eat ear Ae Stet Onedteecg dims gowSienteae cake ace ete 8 Valve clearances — checking and adjustment .................. 5

Degrees of difficulty

A_

Easy, suitable for novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

~

. x ~

Fairly difficult,

EN

x

suitable for competent AY DIY mechanic

x

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY wy mechanic wy

Very difficult, suitable for expert

S

DIY or professional

wy

Specifications General SIMIC LY FIO a cine ae ate

ih Ko ei/aaysee) vitals hire ive el Beni colanlel’s whey adele eesite

Four-cylinder, in-line, single overhead camshaft, cast-iron cylinder

head and engine block Designation: ROGHINTIAN OMA WereReN cists ionaleis,oycualclotrensalenn potas. wilewrapege daca Lap edocs costae enelke POSS AVS CU OM warensirey erie alate ep suslintie: aitoikeie.osoviswawewoc ereAteoroua,’s [bite aficna Engine code: BID)©jee et es valehaierch.chsv patetrical: Suearewe ans1c) olcisicrn screw v de em sles

Duratorg, TDCi Duratorg, TDDi

HCPA, HCPB, P7PA, P9PA, R38PA and RWPA BHPA and BHPB 1753 ce 82.5 mm

82.0 mm 17.0:1 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end) Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Camshaft Camshaft bearing journal diameter ........... 00sec eee eeee ATL Giavehilok ed deta Oe chrbata caer ee orks OM ET oeermon Bor

27.96 to 27.98 mm 0.100 to 0.240 mm

Valves Valve clearances (cold): 0.30 to 0.40 mm 0.45 to 0.55 mm

Cylinder head Camshaft bearing diameter (nominal) ...........-0 cere ee eee eee Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion .............+.+5:

30.500 to 30.525 mm 0.6 mm

Lubrication Oil pressure — minimum (engine at operating temperature):

AtaIGHL Me eet es ie rete rca Meena Surette a,vileein Ng oohlate lolstetencce stu s SION MNT ie ee ec Ae = As MEM teven's els dale w bie!ayy Uae woe Oil pump clearance (inner-to-outer rotors)...........0 eee eee ees

0.75 bars 1.50 bars 0.23 mm

~

2Ae2

Engine in-car repair procedures

Torque wrench settings AINGONGITOMING GOMPTESSOMN).

sccgeosea atte ars ceeve sects eonabiner eee) uaronie carte

Alternator bracket to block: IGN

aaa Biaircranet carteraan aerand concatenate

NMIBiDOITS aie eerie

erento

aha emelied Oca akeenele ater eet

eccrarert:areseetgoals a ame nh eon

SRT ore el

NURS tras care divi sce terior hu’) wn Ae ae Wm 8 a Re ee rae Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley bolt... . 0... ce cece ce eee Auxiliary drivebelt tensioner mounting bolts .............0 00. eee AUR lary Shatt/Ol: Saal GarrlOan crave aca ces deve Gans east @ OR cee ge mes

Big-end bearing cap bolts:* SLEGS a Aree se kele cc ie owns WW Gu MS Saree MADR eARSIeNES aa

Rie

STAG: Sica nrccpoharesn thes trun, fthouckvaiisd cask cision Soto Ne reuasees nein cmt ote Gamshaltipeaning Capraro. norcross cis,vi icioiensacentts ecttehak na eid eerie Gamshattiollibattlart ccorya rewernte ol foras ta tincat Sconce Re sean cag oe mrra rer Ganishattc Sprocket bale wcciar cic ct ch b cnomeiteh ti aren tonal media Coolanvinump pulley DONS ec ca x semen nil tapas lonua tion Gis.Sineh natiers Crankcase ventilation oil separator .. 0.6... 6. ee GramkshaltOllsealiCarniere rcs cnk wes mucie oie cae cuc-6 SIRES ie a's, euaneeoccns GrankshaltpOSitlon SONSOM TACKOU rateKyercectaperet orca ia cits) ereusasnerena al Crankshaft pulley bolt:* SSTAGOM enaperstehs riers avercrea tere nticdss sce siatereesi athe crear ain o steus Gaetalgie s SLAGO 2 ane res ee tao, acter a a wee Aral wnatwagers a ereiereay enehs SURG al rperctenet rooms

xe wear cadets AYCine moarche niany Alaroianataqemnial aie Wales

HONGHOGIStricere etn rea enka Se tate tatarnreurs em Ware ele GwlinderheadicoverboltS= svar. vawcuces ce cra cues able ean eh Engine mountings: Left-hand mounting: GOMMOLOOIE ro atars fare: are teneatrenns ral eee hates AcarANS Wasa tara Syn RRR eae

Rear mounting: Gantte: bolle

Sets c cen

Aeanaek

scan Seas wta

we ose

27 Angle-tighten a further 60° Angle-tighten a further 20°

100 Angle-tighten a further 180°

20 54 Angle-tighten a further 90° Angle-tighten a further 70° Angle-tighten a further 90°

5

aries

Right-hand mounting: PROTEIN MUS rector or tarrar tte torn, watered once nals vce nsmsu becstere trains Mounting-to-body retaining bolts... ..... eee eee HOWEn HalROONGIMNG wischcuar eon stare cero nee oye en ceamne Neerennere ENOIMEON Ga PUG Meixe nee wale tines Coed RAIA y ene aieies SORES an Flywheel bolts:* SHAG Oult needa Sree cece om tematic Clin ci oily: Mamta NANT Se Woe nea SLE 6 ENS te Ree, CBAC OEY Cacachee aOR CON PORE ACHAT CECT Te RPE FUSUINIEStION PUM: SPIOCKSlo a. coe sna creas cin ern hut ware ois mies Lower. crankcase to GVlINGEE DIOGK i. 5:5 sicsis Shes ws woe sec wie oun cree Main bearing cap bolts:

35 Angle-tighten a further 45°

42 11 45 70 Angle-tighten a further 60°

OlliHarleplate MUts reek vaste ciiectcow messy eakoi oie alhee secoe Sites a oan OU MMSt PPS DrAGkKaltOMIOGK Wars non wsesisvers ere ste tinier Shen ela eruee eialers CI RESSUTA: SWITCH) «s.c1c-« va 6.0 tounvamatane iat OF eakele soa e Lane cna MCN ree Oil pump bolts/studs: RAL Oa Me Arastniny ms ieee Soar estaia ReNOO MEN See AERIST Sughen te cei a em ore SLAG an orc MSA TaSes eis aiNuciraLctal h Cuarvseria Se ainiereseT eaeacre Garena renee Roadwheel nuts: AIIQVEWIBOISIS fos ere a tonics oa wari’ Cunene ROE tue ete AO ik es eR

SHOU WMOGIS rotate ccrauiiyskia clamnseruuh ware atateta Cree ehenaoeietich eee Tee amorS SSUES treme sting vyaegats cacarel PeanPR TG Nekbeinc gute NaC Mn ierTea acre ed TOG SStunG DIUG'GOVENRUE wou Wark can lan a aisle Perens a ine coe ee Timing belt inner cover bolts:

15 40

Engine in-car repair procedures

2Ae3

Torque wrench settings (continued) Miming Timing Timing Timing Timing

ibelt‘outer covers: 0.060... ds belt tensioner bolt.................. belt tensioner to cylinder head........ chain guide retaining bolts........... chain housing:

Mong chain tensioner: .....0..i500...00-~ Transmission-to-engine bolts............... * Do not re-use

1.

General information

How to use this Chapter This Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair procedures possible while the engine is still installed in the vehicle. Since these procedures are based on the assumption that the engine is installed in the vehicle, if the engine has been removed from the vehicle and mounted on a stand, some of the preliminary dismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmission removal and refitting and engine overhaul, can be found in Part B of this Chapter.

Engine description The Duratorg TDCi (turbo diesel common rail) and TDDi (turbo diesel direct injection) engines are a further development of the old Endura-Di engine featured in previous Ford models. The engine is an eight-valve, single overhead camshaft (SOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle, with the transmission

on its

left-hand end. It is only available in 1.8 litre form. All major engine castings are of cast-iron; the engine has a lower crankcase which is bolted to the underside of the cylinder block/

crankcase, with a sump bolted under that. This arrangement offers greater rigidity than the normal sump arrangement, and helps to reduce engine vibration. The crankshaft runs in five main bearings, the centre main bearing’s upper half incorporating thrustwashers to control crankshaft endfloat. The connecting rods rotate on horizontally-split bearing shells at their big-ends. The pistons are attached to the connecting rods by gudgeon pins which are a floating fit in the connecting rod small-end eyes, secured by circlips. The aluminium alloy pistons are fitted with three piston rings: two compression rings and an oil control ring.

After manufacture, the cylinder bores and piston skirts are measured and classified into two grades, which must be carefully matched

together to ensure the correct piston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes are available to permit reboring.

The inlet and exhaust valves are each closed by coil springs; they operate in guides which are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head, as are the valve seat inserts. These engines are unusual in that the fuel injection pump/high-pressure pump is driven by an offset double-row (‘gemini’) chain from a sprocket on the crankshaft, with the camshaft being driven from the injection pump sprocket

by a conventional toothed timing belt. The camshaft operates the eight valves via conventional cam followers with shims. The camshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-bored directly in the cylinder head and the (bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that the bearing caps are not available separately from the cylinder head, and must not be interchanged with caps from another engine. The vacuum pump (used for the brake servo and other vacuum actuators) is driven by a pushrod operated directly by a special lobe on the camshaft. The coolant pump is bolted to the right-hand end of the cylinder block, and is driven with the steering pump and alternator by a multi-ribbed auxiliary drivebelt from the crankshaft pulley. When working on this engine, note that Torx-type (both male and female heads) and hexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners are widely used; a good selection of bits, with the necessary adapters, will be required so that these can be unscrewed without damage and, on reassembly, tightened to the torque wrench settings specified.

Lubrication system Lubrication is by means of a G-rotor pump, which is mounted on the crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oil through a strainer located in the sump. The pump forces oil through an externally-mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter. From the filter, the oil is pumped into a main gallery in the cylinder block/crankcase, from where it is distributed to the crankshaft (main bearings) and cylinder head. An oil cooler is fitted next to the oil filter, at the rear of the block. The cooler is supplied with coolant from the engine cooling system.

While the crankshaft and camshaft bearings receive a pressurised supply, the camshaft lobes and valves are lubricated by splash, as are all other engine components. The undersides of the pistons are cooled by oil

sprayed from nozzles fitted above the upper main bearing shells. The turbocharger receives its own pressurised oil supply.

Operations with engine in car The following major repair operations can be accomplished without removing the engine from the vehicle. However, owners should note that any operation involving the removal of the sump requires careful forethought, depending on the level of skill and the tools and facilities available; refer to the relevant text for details. a) Compression pressure — testing. b) Cylinder head cover — removal and refitting. c) Timing belt cover — removal and refitting. d) Timing belt — renewal. e) Timing belt tensioner and sprockets — removal and refitting. f) Camshaft oil seals — renewal. g) Camshaft and cam followers — removal and refitting. h) Cylinder head — removal, overhaul and refitting. i) Cylinder head and pistons decarbonising. j) Sump - removal and refitting. k) Crankshaft oil seals — renewal. !) Oil pump — removal and refitting. m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies — removal and refitting (but see note below). n) Flywheel — removal and refitting. 0) Engine/transmission mountings — removal and refitting. Note: /t is possible to remove the pistons and connecting rods (after removing the cylinder head and sump) without removing the engine, however, this is not recommended. Work of this nature is more easily and thoroughly completed with the engine on the bench, as described in Chapter 2B. Clean the engine compartment and the exterior of the engine with some type of degreaser before any work is done (and/or clean the engine using a steam cleaner). It will make the job easier and will help to keep dirt out of the internal areas of the engine. Depending on the components involved, it may be helpful to remove the bonnet, to improve access to the engine as repairs are performed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary). Cover the wings to prevent damage to the paint; special covers are available, but an old bedspread or blanket will also work.

2Ae4

Engine in-car repair procedures | a maximum figure and then stabilise. Record the highest reading obtained. 8 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders, recording the pressure in each. 9 The cause of poor compression is less easy to establish on a diesel engine than on a petrol engine. The effect of introducing oil into the cylinders (wet testing) is not conclusive, because there is a risk that the oil will sit in the recess on the piston crown, instead of passing to the rings. However, the following can be used as a rough guide to diagnosis. 10 All cylinders should produce very similar pressures. Any great difference indicates the existence of a fault. Note that the compression should build-up quickly in a healthy engine.

2.4 Glow plug relay (arrowed)

2 Compression and leakdown tests — description and interpretation

Low

compression

on

the

first

stroke,

followed by gradually increasing pressure on successive strokes, indicates worn piston rings. A low compression reading on the first stroke, which does not build-up during successive strokes, indicates leaking valves or a blown head gasket (a cracked head could also be the cause). 11 A low reading from two adjacent cylinders is almost certainly due to the head gasket having blown between them and the presence of coolant in the engine oil will confirm this. 12 On completion, remove the compression tester, and refit the glow plugs, with reference to Chapter 5. 13 Take out the ignition key, then reconnect the injection pump wiring connector.

WIE

Compression test Note: A compression tester suitable for use with diesel engines will be required for this test.

1 When engine performance is down, or if misfiring occurs which cannot be attributed to the fuel or emissions systems, a compression test can provide diagnostic clues as to the engine’s condition. If the test is performed regularly, it can give warning of trouble before any other symptoms become apparent. 2 The engine must be fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, the battery must be fully-charged and the glow plugs must be removed. The aid of an assistant will be required. 3 Make sure that the ignition is switched off (take out the key). Disconnect the wiring plugs from the injectors. 4 Remove the glow plug relay (see illustration) from the central junction box/

fusebox in the engine bay (see Chapter 12). 5 Remove the glow plugs as.described in Chapter 5. 6 Fit acompression testerto the No 1 cylinder glow plug hole. The type of tester which screws into the plug thread is preferred. 7 Crank the engine for several seconds on the starter motor. After one or two revolutions, the compression pressure should build-up to

Leakdown

test

14 A leakdown test measures the rate at which compressed air fed into the cylinder is lost. It is an alternative to a compression test, and in many ways it is better, since the escaping air provides easy identification of where pressure loss is occurring (piston rings, valves or head gasket). 15 The equipment required for leakdown testing is unlikely to be available to the home mechanic. If poor compression is suspected, have the test performed by a suitablyequipped garage.

gne . Be

ch 3 Setting e _

der onNo1 cylin

Ss

may occur if the camshaft or crankshaft are turned with the timing belt removed. For this reason,

it is important

to ensure

that

the camshaft and crankshaft do not move in relation to each other once the timing belt has been removed from the engine.

Setting TDC on No 1 cylinder Note: Suitable tools will be required to lock the camshaft and the fuel injection pump sprocket in position during this procedure — see text. 4 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (refer to Chapter 5). 5 Remove the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4. 6 Loosen the right-hand front wheel nuts, then firmly apply the handbrake. 7 Jack up the front of the car, and support the vehicle on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the right-hand front wheel. 8 Undo the fasteners and remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (where fitted). 9 When No 1 cylinder is set to TDC on compression, an offset slot in the left-hand end of the camshaft (left as seen from the driver’s seat) should align with the top surface of the cylinder head, to allow a special tool (Ford No 303-376) to be fitted. This tool can be substituted by a suitable piece of flat bar (see illustrations). There is no need to fit this tool at this stage, but check that the slot comes into the required

alignment while setting TDC — if the slot is above the level of the head, No 1 cylinder could be on the exhaust stroke. 10 If required, further confirmation that No 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke can be inferred from the positions of the camshaft lobes for No 1 cylinder. When the cylinder is on compression, the inlet and exhaust lobes should be pointing upwards (ie, not depressing the cam followers). The camshaft lobes are only visible once the oil baffle plate is removed, and the securing nuts also retain two of the camshaft bearing caps — for more information, refer to Section 9. 11 A TDC timing hole is provided on the front of the cylinder block, to permit the crankshaft to be located more accurately at TDC. A timing

pin (Ford service tool 303-193, obtainable from Ford dealers or a tool supplier) screws into the hole, and the crankshaft is then turned so that

General information

3.9a Offset slot in the camshaft aligned with the cylinder head

1 TDC is the highest point in the cylinder that each piston reaches as it travels up and down when the crankshaft turns. Each piston reaches TDC at the end of the compression stroke and again at the end of the exhaust stroke, but TDC generally refers to piston position on the compression stroke. No 1 piston is at the timing belt end of the engine. 2 Positioning No 1 piston at TDC is an essential part of many procedures, such as timing belt removal and camshaft removal. 3 The design of the engines covered in this Chapter is such that piston-to-valve contact

3.9b Flat bar engaged with the slot in the camshaft

Engine in-car repair procedures

z

3.11a

Tool fabricated to locate the

J

3.11b ... screw the tool into the cylinder block to locate with the crankshaft

crankshaft at TDC...

2Ae®5

3.12 Remove the bracket

it contacts the end of the tool. A tool can be fabricated to set the timing at TDC, using a piece of threaded rod (see illustrations). The

fabricated tool has the following dimensions: Thread diameter = 10 mm. Length from 1st nut face to the point =47mm.

Point ground down to 8 mm. 12 To gain access to the blanking plug fitted over the timing pin hole, remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1, then unbolt and remove the alternator as described in the alternator removal procedure in Chapter 5. Remove the alternator mounting bracket (see illustration). 13 Remove the camshaft setting tool from the slot, and turn the engine back slightly from the TDC position. Unscrew the timing pin blanking plug (which is located in a deeplyrecessed hole), and screw in the timing pin (see illustrations). Now carefully turn the crankshaft forwards until it contacts the timing pin (it should be possible to feel this point — the crankshaft cannot then be turned any further forward). 14 Once No 1 cylinder has been positioned at TDC on the compression stroke, TDC for any of the other cylinders can then be located by rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180° at a time and following the firing order (see Specifications). 15 Before rotating the crankshaft again, make sure that the timing pin and camshaft setting bar are removed. When operations are complete, do not forget to refit the timing pin blanking plug.

3.13a

Unscrew the blanking plug...

crankcase ventilation hoses from the cylinder head cover (see illustration). There are two hoses at the front, and one at the rear. Move the hoses aside as far as possible.

3.13b

...and insert the timing pin

4 Disconnect the camshaft position sensor wiring plug and remove the vacuum solenoid (see illustrations). 5 Unscrew the three securing bolts, and lift

4.2 Undo the bolts and move the MAP sensor to one side (arrowed)

4. Cylinder head cover removal and refitting

WU Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative terminal and move it to one side. 2 Undo the 2 bolts and detach the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor from the cylinder head cover. Move the sensor to one side (see illustration).

3 Noting their positions carefully for refitting, release the hose clips and detach the

4.4a Disconnect the camshaft sensor...

4.4b ... and unbolt the vacuum control solenoid

2Ae°6

Engine in-car repair procedures

5 Valve clearances -

checking and adjustment

HH

Checking

+ 4.5a Unscrew the securing bolts (arrowed)... the cylinder head cover off the engine (see illustrations). Discard the gasket - a new one must be fitted. 6 If required, the baffle plate fitted below the cover can be removed by unscrewing the nuts and taking off the spacer plates and sleeves —

note, however, that these nuts also secure Nos 2 and 4 camshaft bearing caps. Note the positions

of all components carefully for refitting.

Refitting 7 Clean the sealing surfaces of the cover and the head, and check the condition of the rubber seals fitted to the cover bolts. 8 Before refitting the cover, check that the crankcase ventilation holes are clear. The connection at the rear of the cover leads to the ventilation valve — if this appears to be

4.5b

...and lift away the cylinder head

cover blocked, use a suitable degreaser to wash out the valve (it is not advisable to use petrol, as this may damage the valve itself). 9 Lightly lubricate the surfaces of the gasket with fresh oil, then fit the gasket to the cover, making sure it is correctly located. 10 Lower the cover into position, ensuring that the gasket is not disturbed, then fit the three bolts and tighten them a little at a time, so that the cover is drawn down evenly to make a good seal. 11 Further refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensure that the pipes are routed as noted on removal, and that the ventilation hoses are correctly and securely reconnected. 12 When the engine has been run for some time, check for signs of oil leakage from the gasket joint.

1 Remove the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4. 2 Remove the baffle plate fitted below the cover by unscrewing the four nuts and taking off the spacer plates and sleeves. Note, however, that these nuts also secure Nos 2 and 4 camshaft bearing caps - refit the nuts temporarily, once the baffle plate has been removed (see illustrations). Note the positions of all components carefully for refitting. 3 During the following procedure, the crankshaft must be turned in order to position the peaks of the camshaft lobes away from the valves. To do this, either turn the crankshaft

on the pulley bolt or alternatively raise the front right-hand corner of the vehicle, engage 5th gear, and turn the front roadwheel. Access to the pulley bolt is gained by jacking up the front of the vehicle and supporting on axle stands, then removing the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover. 4 \f desired, to enable the crankshaft to be turned more easily, remove the glow plugs as described in Chapter 5. 5 Draw the valve positions on a piece of paper, numbering them 1 to 8 from the timing belt end of the engine. Identify them as inlet or

exhaust (ie, 11, 2E, 3l, 4E, 51, 6E, 71, 8E). 6 Turn the crankshaft until the valves of No 4 cylinder (flywheel end) are ‘rocking’ — the exhaust valve will be closing and the inlet valve will be opening. The piston of No 1 cylinder will be at the top of its compression stroke, with both valves fully closed. The clearances for both valves of No 1 cylinder may be checked at the same time. 7 Use feeler blade(s) to measure the exact clearance between the heel of the camshaft lobe and the shim on the cam follower; the feeler blades should be a firm sliding fit (see

SAS

5.2a

Unscrew the 4 nuts (arrowed)...

5.2c ... then refit the camshaft bearing cap nuts temporarily

5.2b

... and lift off the baffle plate...

5.7 Use feeler gauges to measure the exact clearance

illustration). Record the measured clearance on the drawing. From this clearance it will be possible to calculate the thickness of the new shim to be fitted, where necessary. Note that the inlet and exhaust valve clearances are different, so it is important that you know which valve clearance you are checking. 8 With No 1 cylinder valve clearances checked, turn the engine through half a turn so that No 2 valves are ‘rocking’, then measure the valve clearances of No 3 cylinder in the same way. Similarly check the valve clearances of No 4 cylinder with No 1 valves ‘rocking’ and No 2 cylinder with No 3 valves ‘rocking’. Compare the measured clearances with the values give in the Specifications any which fall within the range do not require adjustment.

Adjustment 9 If adjustment is required, turn the engine

Engine in-car repair procedures

2Ae¢7

in the normal direction of rotation through approximately 90°, to bring the pistons to mid-stroke. If this is not done, the pistons at TDC will prevent the cam followers being depressed, and valve damage may result. Depress the cam followers and then either shim can be withdrawn if the peak of the cam does not prevent access. The Ford tools for this operation are Nos 303-195 and 303-196, but with care and patience a C-spanner or screwdriver can be used to depress the cam

follower and the shim can be flicked out with a small screwdriver. 10 If the valve clearance was too small, a thinner shim must be fitted. If the clearance was too large, a thicker shim must be fitted. The thickness of the shim (in mm) is engraved on the side facing away from the camshaft. If the marking is missing or illegible, a micrometer will be needed to establish shim thickness. 11 When the shim thickness and the valve clearance are known, the required thickness of the new shim can be calculated as follows (all measurements in mm): Sample calculation Desired clearance (A) = 0.50 Measured clearance (B)

=0,35

Shim thickness found (C)

= 3.95

Shim thickness required (D)

= C+B-A 12 With the correct shim fitted, release the

cam follower depressing tool. Turn the engine back so that the cam lobes are again pointing upwards and check that the clearance is now correct. 13 Repeat the process for the remaining valves, turning the engine each time to bring a pair of cam lobes upwards. 14 It will be helpful for future adjustment if a record is kept of the thickness of shim fitted at each position. The shims required can be purchased in advance once the clearances and the existing shim thicknesses are known. 15 It is permissible to interchange shims between cam followers to achieve the correct clearances but it is not advisable to turn the camshaft with any shims removed, since there is a risk that the cam lobe will jam in the empty cam follower. 16 When all the clearances are correct, refit the glow plugs (Chapter 5), then refit the oil baffle plate and tighten the nuts to the specified torque. Refit the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4.

6 Crankshaft pulley removal and refitting

6.6 Special tool used to stop the crankshaft from turning

3 Undo the fasteners and withdraw the engine undershield from under the car. 4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt, as described in Chapter 1. 5 The centre bolt which secures the crankshaft pulley must now be slackened. This bolt is tightened to a very high torque, and it is first of all essential to ensure that the car is adequately supported, as considerable effort will be needed. 6 Ford technicians use a special holding tool (205-072) which locates in the outer holes of the pulley and prevents it from turning (see illustration). If this is not available, select a gear, and have an assistant firmly apply the handbrake and footbrake as the bolt is loosened. If this method is unsuccessful, remove the starter motor as described in Chapter 5, and jam the flywheel ring gear, using a suitable tool, to prevent the crankshaft from rotating. 7 Unscrew the bolt securing the pulley to the crankshaft, and remove the pulley. It is essential to obtain a new bolt for reassembly (see illustration). 8 With the pulley removed, it is advisable to check the crankshaft oil seal for signs of oil leakage. If necessary, fit a new seal as described in Section 16.

Refitting 9 Refit the pulley to the crankshaft sprocket, then fit the new pulley securing bolt and tighten it as far as possible before the crankshaft starts to rotate. 10 Holding the pulley against rotation as for removal, first tighten the bolt to the specified Stage 1 torque. 11 Stage 2 involves tightening the bolt though

6.7 Renew the crankshaft pulley bolt when reassembling

7 Timingbelt-

removal and refitting

ss _

Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead as described in Chapter 5. 2 Slacken the clamps and remove the intercooler outlet pipe from the right-hand end of the engine. 3 Remove the cylinder head cover as described in Section 4. 4 Referring to the information

in Section 3,

set the engine to TDC on No 1 cylinder. The timing pin described must be used, to ensure

accuracy. 5 Remove the coolant expansion tank removing the single bolt and pulling it up from its mountings. Move it to one side without disconnecting the hoses. Unclip the power steering fluid reservoir and move it to one side. 6 Ford recommend that the engine is further prevented from turning by fitting another special tool, to lock the flywheel ring gear (this prevents the injection pump

sprocket from

moving). This tool (Ford No 303-393) is also available from Ford dealers and other tool suppliers. With the starter motor removed, as described in Chapter 5, the tool bolts across the starter motor aperture in the bellhousing, and a peg on the back of the tool engages and locks the flywheel ring gear (see illustration). A substitute for this tool could be made, or the ring gear jammed using another suitable tool.

an angle, rather than to a torque. The bolt

must be rotated through the specified angle — special angle gauges are available from tool outlets. As a guide, a 180° angle is equivalent to a half-turn, and this is easily judged by assessing the start and end positions of the socket handle or torque wrench. 12 Refit and tension the auxiliary drivebelt as described in Chapter 1. 13 Refit the engine undershield. 14 Refit the roadwheel, lower the vehicle to the ground, and reconnect the battery negative lead as described in Chapter 5. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque.

Whe

Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative lead as described in Chapter 5.

2 Loosen the right-hand front roadwheel nuts, then raise the front of the vehicle, and support securely on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Remove the roadwheel.

7.6 The flywheel locking tool in position

2Ae8

Engine in-car repair procedures

7.9 Remove the left-hand engine mounting

as, 7.11

Using a suitable socket on the Torx end fitting ...

7.10b

...unscrew and remove the engine mounting front stud

7.14b

...and slip the timing belt from its sprockets

4

Remove the timing belt outer cover

7 Before unbolting the engine mounting, it is recommended that the right-hand wheel is refitted, and the car lowered to the ground (assuming the car has been raised as part of setting the engine to TDC). 8 The engine must now be supported before the right-hand mounting is removed. Ford technicians use an engine support bar, which locates in the channels at the top of each

inner wing, and a further beam attached to this, which rests on the front crossmember. If such an arrangement is not available, use an engine crane; either way, use a suitable length of chain and hooks to attach the lifting gear to the engine lifting eye. If the engine must be supported from below (and this is not recommended), use a large piece of wood on a trolley jack to spread the load and reduce the chance of damage to the sump. 9 With the weight of the engine supported, unscrew the two nuts and two bolts securing

>

7.16

7.10a

Using a forked holding tool, unscrew the camshaft sprocket bolt

7.14a

Slacken the tensioner bolt...

the top half of the engine right-hand mounting, and lift the mounting off the two studs (see illustration). 10 Before the timing belt outer cover can be removed, the stud fitted to the front of the engine mounting must be unscrewed and removed. This can be achieved using a socket on the Torx end fitting provided (see illustrations). 11 Unscrew the three bolts (and one stud/ bolt at the top), and remove the timing belt outer cover (see illustration). 12 If the timing belt is not being fitted straight away (or if the belt is being removed as part of another procedure, such as cylinder head removal), temporarily refit the engine right-hand mounting and tighten the bolts securely. 13 Before proceeding further, check once more that the engine is positioned at TDC on No 1 cylinder, as described in Section 3.

ai

7.17a

Fit Ford tool 303-651 to the camshaft sprocket

14 Slacken the timing belt tensioner bolt, and remove the tensioner completely. Slip the timing belt from the sprockets, and remove it (see illustrations). 15 The camshaft sprocket must be removed — this is necessary as part of setting up the new timing belt, to ensure that the correct valve timing is preserved. Not only will a method for holding the sprocket stationary be required, but the sprocket itself is mounted on a taper, so a puller will be needed to free it from the camshaft. Due to its design, the sprocket cannot readily be removed using an ordinary puller, so either the Ford tool (303-651) must be obtained, or a suitable alternative fabricated. 16 Holding the camshaft sprocket using a suitable tool, loosen the sprocket bolt (see illustration). Note: Do not rely on the TDC setting bar engaged in the slot at the opposite end of the camshaft to hold it stationary — not only is this dangerous, it could well result in damage to the camshaft. 17 Using a suitable puller, release the camshaft sprocket from the taper, and remove it (see illustrations). 18 Do not be tempted to re-use the old timing belt under any circumstances — even if it is known to have covered less mileage than the renewal interval indicated in Chapter 1. Ford state that, once a new timing belt has been run on the engine, it is considered worn, and should be discarded. In any case, given the potential expense involved should the belt fail in service, re-using an old belt would be a false

economy. 19 Before disposing of the old belt, however,

Engine in-car repair procedures

2Ae9

en

7.17b

Using the special Ford puller, free the sprocket from its taper...

examine it for evidence of contamination by coolant or lubricant. If there are any signs of contamination, find the source of the contamination before progressing any further.

If an oil leak is evident, this will most likely be from the camshaft seal. Cure the problem, then wash down the whole area (including the sprockets) with degreaser and allow to dry before fitting the new belt. 20 Spin the tensioner pulley, and check for signs of sticking or roughness, indicating bearing wear. Many professional mechanics will fit a new tensioner as a matter of course when fitting a new timing belt. This should be considered a good idea, especially if the engine has completed a high mileage.

Refitting 21 Ensure that the crankshaft and camshaft are still set to TDC on No 1 cylinder, as described in Section 3. 22 Before refitting the camshaft sprocket, check that the part number marked on it ends with AC. If the sprocket suffix is AB it must be replaced with a modified sprocket. Refit the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft, tightening the bolt by hand only (see illustration). The sprocket must be able to rotate independently of the camshaft. ; 23 Fit the timing belt tensioner into position, noting that the adjustment arm must be set as shown (see illustration). Fit the retaining bolt, tightening it finger-tight only at this stage. 24 Fit the new timing belt over the sprockets and above the tensioner pulley, ensuring that the injection pump sprocket does not move (the camshaft sprocket must be free to turn — remember that the camshaft itself is locked by the tool fitted to its slotted end). Where applicable, ensure the arrow on the back of the belt points in the direction of engine rotation. 25 Using an Allen key in the adjuster arm, maintain the tensioner’s position whilst the retaining bolt is slackened, then rotate the adjuster arm anti-clockwise until the pointer

is positioned

between

the sides

7.17¢

.

. then remove the sprocket bolt and washer...

27 Remove the locking tools from the engine, so that it can be turned; these may include the timing pin, the plate fitted into the camshaft slot, and the tool used to lock the flywheel. 28 Mark the TDC position of the crankshaft pulley, using paint or typist’s correction fluid, to give a rough indication of TDC, and so that the number of turns can be counted. 29 Using a spanner or socket on the crankshaft pulley centre bolt, turn the engine forwards (clockwise, viewed from the timing belt end) through six full turns, bringing the engine almost up to the TDC position on completion. 30 Using the information in Section 3, set the engine to TDC on No 1 cylinder. Make sure that the timing pin and camshaft locking tools are refitted — also lock the flywheel against rotation, using the same method used previously (See

7.22 Refit the camshaft sprocket bolt, hand-tight at first

7.17d

... and finally remove the camshaft sprocket

paragraph 6). If the special tools cannot be refitted, go back to paragraph 21 and repeat the setting procedure. 31 Check the position of the timing belt automatic tensioner pointer. If the pointer is still within the two sides of the ‘window’,

proceed to next paragraph. If the pointer is outside the ‘window’, repeat the tensioning procedure. 32 Remove the locking tools from the engine; these may include the timing pin, the plate fitted into the camshaft slot, and the tool used to lock the flywheel. 33 If the engine right-hand mounting had been temporarily refitted as described in paragraph 12, support the engine once more, and remove the mounting. 34 Refit the timing belt outer cover, and tighten the retaining bolts securely.

7.23 Note that the adjustment arm (arrowed) must be approximately as shown

of the

adjustment ‘window’ (see illustrations). Fully tighten the tensioner retaining bolt.

26 Hold the camshaft sprocket against rotation, and tighten the sprocket retaining bolt.

aii 7.25a

Rotate the tensioner arm anticlockwise...

7.25b

——
} SN “YAN, Mica

OH

Wiring diagrams

Colour codes

Key to items

Diagram 7

Wh

White

Og

Orange

1

Bu

Blue’

Rd

Red

2 Battery fusebox

72 Rear interior light

Gy

Grey’

Pk

Pink

5

73 Instrument cluster

Ye Bn Bk Na

Yellow Gn Green Brown Vt Violet Black Sr _ Silver Natural Lg Light green

12°23

Battery

71 Centre interior light

Ignition switch

17 Passenger fusebox R115 = battery saver relay R142 = interior lighting relay 23 Light switch a_ = side/headlight 70 Front interior light

74 75 76 77

Handbrake switch Brake fluid level switch Fuel gauge sender unit Brake pedal position switch , H47270

:

Interior lighting

Instrument cluster

jn)» Gn/Wh#