Haynes Ford Fiesta Service and Repair Manual - 1976-Aug 1983 (Up To Y Registration) Petrol 1859602347, 9781859602348

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2 Models covered > Fiesta Base, L and Ghia, 957 cc

“; Fiesta Base, L, GL, Sport (S) and Ghia, 1117 cc i Fiesta Base, L, GL, Sport (S) and Ghia, 1298 cc | Fiesta XR2, 1598 cc

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© Haynes Publishing 1997

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A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

:

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 234 7 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J H Haynes & Co Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes North America, Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes S.A. Tour Aurore - La Défense 2, 18 Place des Reflets, 92975 PARIS LA DEFENSE Cedex, France Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden

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Contents LIVING WITH YOUR FORD FIESTA Introduction

Page

004

Safety First!

Page

005

Jacking and towing

Page

0°6

Jump starting

Page

O07

Identifying leaks

Page

0Oe8

Roadside Repairs

Routine Maintenance Tyre checks

Page

0:9

Routine Maintenance

Page

0e10

Page

0e13

Page

0014

Recommended

Lubricants and Fluids

Conversion factors

Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine

Page

1e1

Cooling and heating system

Page

2e1

Carburation: Fuel, exhaust and emission control systems Ignition system

Page

3e1

Page

4e1

Clutch

Page

Be

Transmission

Page

6e1

Page

7e1

Page

8e1

Page

921

Page

10¢1

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models

Page

11¢1

Wiring Diagrams

Page

12¢1

Transmission

Brakes Braking system

Electrical Electrical system

Steering and suspension Suspension, steering and driveshafts

Bodywork Bodywork and fittings

Additional information

MOT Test Checks

Page

REFe1

Tools and Working Facilities

Page

REFe5

General Repair Procedures

Page

REFe8

Fault Finding

Page

REFe9

Buying Spare Parts & Vehicle Identification Numbers

Page

REFe12

Glossary of Technical Terms

Page

REFe13

Index

Page

REFe18

oe4 INtroduction ett

ener

en

Introduction to the Fiesta The Fiesta models were first introduced in the United Kingdom in February 1977. This two door small car with the upward lifting tailgate is unique to the Ford UK range in having front wheel drive, with a transverse engine and a separate transmission assembly. This transmission incorporates four forward and one reverse gear, and also the differential

gear. Economy in both running and maintenance costs are the keynote of this car. For this reason, the original Fiesta was available with

three engine options - 957 cc low compression, 957 cc high compression and 1117 cc high compression. These engines are based on the well proven Ford UK in-line engine, but with a three main bearing crankshaft. Because of the growing demand from people who wanted even more power in their Fiesta, Ford UK began fitting the 1300, five

main bearing engine — as used in the Escort and Cortina — in September 1977. With this increase in power, came the need foratwo piece driveshaft on the longer length. Finally, towards the end of 1977 the Fiesta

Eium

:

ae

Fiesta GL 1298 cc

was introduced in the United States, this time

with the 1600 five main bearing engine. The Fiesta is available in several trim levels and also has a wide range of options from sports road wheels to a sunshine roof.

Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions. Certain other illustrations are the copyright of the Ford Motor Company, and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited who supplied some of the workshop tools, and all those people at Sparkford who assisted in the production of this manual. We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss,

damage or injury caused by errors in, or omissions from, the information given.

; ee Fiesta Ghia 1117 cc

Safety First! o-s Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards Scalding ¢ Don’t remove the radiator or.expansion

tank cap while the engine is hot. ¢ Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning ¢ Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

¢ Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication e Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is

rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine ina confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. e Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

e When working under or near

‘a raised vehicle,

torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

e Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. e Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. ¢ Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Fire

Asbestos

° Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. ¢ Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine. ¢ Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). ¢ Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. e Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. ¢ Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

e Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on

ramps. Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

® Take care if loosening or tightening high-

Electric shock

* Ignition HT

=

voltage canbe

dangerous,

a *

e

especially to VK people with heart ae problems or a ap pacemaker. Don’t Ze work on or near the J ignition system with the engine running or s } the ignition switched on.

r

Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid ¢ This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are

exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

e When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery e Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which

attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. e The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags e Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Warning: Never expose the hands,

face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember... DO

DON’T

¢ Do use eye protection wheri using power tools,.and when working under the vehicle.

e Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. ;

¢ Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

e Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

© Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

e Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

® Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

¢ Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

© Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before

working on the vehicle — especially the electrical system. e Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

e Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

oe Roadside Repairs

Jacking and towing Jacking points

work, use a trolley, hydraulic or screw type jack located under the front crossmember,

To change a wheel in an emergency, use the jack supplied with the vehicle. Ensure that

bodyframe side-members or rear axle casing, as illustrated. Great care must be taken when jacking under the rear axle as it is very easy to damage the handbrake cable or distort the Panhard rod. For this reason it is advisable to make up a wooden jacking support as shown, to prevent damage to these components. Whenever the car has been raised always supplement the jack with axle stands or

the

roadwheel

bolts

are

released

before

jacking up the car and make sure that the arm of the jack is fully engaged with the body bracket and that the base of the jack is standing on a firm surface. The jack supplied with the vehicle is not suitable for use when raising the vehicle for maintenance or repair operations. For this

blocks of wood positioned as shown.

Towing points If your vehicle is being towed, or is towing another vehicle, the tow rope must be attached to the towing eyes where these are fitted. Otherwise, the rope can be attached to the right- or left-hand tie rod at the front, as shown. At the rear, the rope should only be attached to the left-hand end of the axle tube to avoid damage to the suspension or brake components.

Jacking support block construction dimensions (shown in inches)

jack)

Car jacking points (for maintenance and repair operations)

Correct positioning of stands or blocks (for maintenance and repair operations)

A 5.25 B 4.25 Cx2Z:0

D 0.5 Emelco Fas:0

Tow rope attachments to car (arrows indicate towing eyes when

fitted)

Roadside Repairs o-7 PAN :

HINT

of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

5 | Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery Eon

Jump starting

ump starting will get you out

Real

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

V

VY

Vv lf the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

Before connecting the booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

¥Y

Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

Make sure that the booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or PARK, in the case of

automatic transmission).

Connect the other end of the red lead to

to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

I i I I

| = |

ee [a Se ee 23

4

E

2

2

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started. Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

A

Se aa a a

Ii 1 I i i 4 I I i i I i I i I I I i I J I I I 1 i I I I i I L

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

os Roadside Repairs i iii

iid

en

een

eee

Identifying leaks Puddies on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide

where

the

leak

is coming

from,

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

AYN

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a

HINT clue to what’s leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil .

Oil from filter

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug...

_.or from the base of the oil filter.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

Antifreeze

Brake fluid

Power steering fluid

deposit like this.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

A

»

Gearbox oil za

Routine Maintenance oe9 Tyre condition and pressure It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh

braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will ail produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

Tread Depth - visual! check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new whee! is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension componenis. Wheel imbalance is normaliy signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing.

however,

the vibration

is felt through

whole car, the rear wheels

could

If,

the

be out of

balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyres pressures been used,

the tyre pressures regularly with cold. Do not adjust the tyre immediately after the vehicle has or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Centre Wear

Uneven

Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed!

Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with

wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and

reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

oe1o ROUtINe Maintenance

Maintenance is essential for ensuring safety, and desirable for the purpose of getting the best in terms of performance and economy from your car. Over the years the need for periodic lubrication — oiling, greasing and so on — has been drastically reduced, if not totally eliminated. This has unfortunately tended to lead some owners to think that because no such action is required, components either no longer exist, or will last forever. This is a serious delusion. It follows therefore that the largest initial element of maintenance is visual examination and a general sense of awareness. This may lead to repairs or renewals, but should help to avoid roadside breakdowns.

Every 250 miles (400 km), weekly or before a long journey Check tyre pressures (when cold) Examine tyres for wear and damage Check steering for smooth and accurate operation Check brake reservoir fluid level. If this has fallen noticeably, check for fluid leakage Check for satisfactory brake operation Check operation of all lights Check operation of screen wipers and washer

leads Check, and if necessary, top up the water reservoir Check that the horn operates Check that all instruments and gauges are operating Check engine oil level; top up if necessary Check radiator coolant level Check battery electrolyte level

Every 6,000 miles (10,000 km) or 6 months, whichever occurs first Renew engine oil and oil filter Clean all HT leads, top of coil, distributor cap and

Check condition of exhaust system Check condition and tension of all drivebelts Adjust slow idle speed Clean/tighten battery terminals, check electrolyte level Check transmission oil level, top-up if required Lubricate handbrake linkage and clutch cable at release arm Check front brake for wear

Check rear brake linings for wear Examine brake hoses for leaks and chafing Check steering linkage for wear and damage Check front suspension linkage for wear and damage Check steering, suspension and driveshaft gaiters for security and condition . Check operation of all doors, catches and hinges. Lubricate as necessary Check condition of seatbelts and operation of buckles and inertia reels |_| Adjust air cleaner spout for seasonal condition Check engine compartment and underbody for leakage of oils and fluids

Every 18,000 miles (30,000 km) or 18 months, whichever occurs first Change air cleaner element Clean or replace crankcase emission orifice in oil filler cap Renew crankcase emission filter (located inside air cleaner casing) — later 1300 models only Check fast idle speed __} Clean fuel pump filter

rotor arm

Check rotor arm and points for wear and adjust gaps Clean spark plugs and reset gaps

|] Lubricate distributor Check ignition timing * Check valve clearances Check tightness of inlet and exhaust manifold bolts

Every 24,000 miles (40,000 km) or 2 years, whichever occurs first Renew all rubber seals and hoses in braking systems. Renew brake fluid. Drain engine coolant. Renew antifreeze or inhibitor coolant mixture

Routine Maintenance «11

0 Check brake fluid level

Screen washer reservoirs

Top up engine oil level

Engine coolant level

Battery electrolyte level

Renew engine oil filter

Clean HT components

Adjust distributor points gap

Adjust spark plug gap

ae

ad

Adjust valve clearances

Adjust aiternator belt tension

oe12 Routine Maintenance

ol

Top up transmission oil level

Adjust air cleaner spout position

Change air cleaner element

Lubricants and Fluids oe13

Componeni or system

Lubricant type/specification

1 Engine

Multigrade engine oil, viscosity range SAE 20W/40 or 20W/50

2 Transmission

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP

3 Wheel bearings

General purpose lithium based grease

4 Steering gear

Gear oil, viscosity SAE 9OEP

5 Brake master cylinder

Hydraulic fluid to Ford spec ESEA-M6C-1001A,

or SAE J1703

6 Cooling system

Antifreeze to Ford spec SSM-97B-9101A

8AM-6C-9101A or C,

0-14 Conversion Factors Length (distance) Inches (in) Feet (ft) Miles

Millimetres (mm)

Inches (in)

Metres (m) Kilometres (km)

Feet (ft) Miles

Volume (capacity) Cubic inches (cu in; in*) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) US gallons (US gal)

oO © £ [o>)

as ton Peter os tot bP

Cubic inches (cu in; in’) Imperial pints (Imp pt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) Imperial quarts (Imp qt) US quarts (US qt) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Imperial gallons (Imp gal) Poo UC ae ine ow US gallons (US gal) Ho

Cubic centimetres (cc; cm’) Litres (I) Litres (l) US quarts (US qt) Litres (I) Litres (I) US gallons (US gal) Litres (|)

SRR WR, Rane, OR x Ok OK

Grams (g) Kilograms (kg)

Ounces (02) x IS NO Oo @ an Ta Pounds (Ib)

Newtons (N) Newtons (N) Kilograms-force (kgf; kg)

x 2 1)nNan

= foe) ine}Ww oOoO

SOF o‘

Mass (weight) Ounces (02) Pounds (Ib)

Force Ounces-force (ozf; 02) Pounds-force (Ibf; !b) Newtons (N)

Ounces-force (ozf; 0Z) Pounds-force (Ibf; |b) nou ul Newtons (N)

Pressure Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in’; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per

square inch square inch

Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm’) Atmospheres (atm)

square inch

Bars

square inch

Kilopascals (kPa)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Kilopascals (kPa)

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar)

Oo

ass

—_

Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

Inches of water (inH,O)

SX ee oy 8k Sk

Kilograms-force per square centimetre (kgf/cm?; kg/cm’) Pascals (Pa) Pounds-force per square inch (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Millimetres of mercury (mmHg) Inches of water (inH,O) Inches of water (inH,O) = Pounds-force per square inch

x © ie

—_

TT

Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Pounds-force per (psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?) Kilopascals (kPa)

square inch square inch

square inch square inch

Millibar (mbar) Millibar (mbar) —s

w oOre)

—

© ro)©

Millibar (mbar) nou Millibar (mbar) = Millimetres of mercury (mmHg)

=

Inches of water (inH,O)

(psi; Ibf/in?; Ib/in?)

Torque (moment of force) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force

inches

XM eO2

inches

x 0.113

Kilograms-force centimetre (kgf cm; kg cm) Newton metres (Nm)

inches

x 0.083

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft)

x 0.138

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Newton metres (Nm)

Kilograms-force metres

x ae N ooa) TT

Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force (Ibf in; Ib in) Pounds-force

inches inches inches

feet (lbf ft; Ib ft)

(kgf m; kg m) 1.356 0.102

Newton metres (Nm) Kilograms-force metres (kgf m; kg m)

x = wo(or)

x 745.7

Watts (W)

x 0.0013 =

x 1.609

Kilometres per hour (km/hr; kph) x O62

=

Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

x 0.354

Kilometres per litre (km/I)

=

Miles per gallon (mpg)

x

N

Pounds-force feet (Ibf ft; Ib ft) Ho Newton metres (Nm)

Power Horsepower (hp)

Horsepower (hp)

Velocity (speed) Miles per hour (miles/hr; mph)

Fuel consumption* Miles per gallon (mpg)

6 Ak)

Temperature Degrees Fahrenheit = (°C x 1.8) + 32 Degrees Celsius (Degrees Centigrade; °C) = (°F - 32) x 0.56 “It is common practice to convert from miles per gallon (mpg) to litres/100 kilometres (/100km), where mpg x 1/100 km = 282

Chapter 1 Engine For modifications, and information applicable to later models, see Supplement at end of manual

Contents Cam tappets Camshaft and Camshaft and Camshaft and

examination camshaft bearings - examination and renovation tappets - refitting tappets - removal

Connecting rods and gudgeon pins - examination and renovation

.. 33

. 32

Connecting rods to crankshaft - refitting ..................00. Crankcase ventilation system - description ................05. Crankshaft - examination and renovation .................0005 CranksShatt er rOriteiiG tae s aceect soa cory Abe taeeet capo odisaet ah.Shales Crankshaft and main bearings - removal ..............000005. Crankshaft pulley and front cover - refitting ................04. Crankshaft pulley and front cover - removal ..............005Cylinder bores - examination and renovation .................-. Cylinder head and piston crowns - decarbonisation. ........... CVylindemheack Kenittingy, Se se areh ccusaeie aise eee sik wey Bo ame Cylinder head - removal (engine on the bench) ................ Cylinder head - removal (engine inthe car) ...................

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Engine - initial start-up after overhaul or major repair............ 59 Engine - refitting ancillary components ..............00--000- 57 Engine - removing ancillary components ...............-20007 Engine and transmission - refitting ...............0. eee eee 58 Enginerand tramSmission™=TemoOval 6 sa.04 aie neler c ac cis tne ore 5 Engine components - examination for wear .............20055 27

Engineidismantling= general . 2.26... se. oes epee ieeley ie dee 6 Engine mountings - removal and refitting ..................05. 60 Engimemeassembling)— generally rs 2a GREE EE

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