Great Designs for Shaped Beads: Tilas, Peanuts, and Daggers 9780871164964, 9780871164971, 9780871164988, 9780871164957, 9780871167583, 0871164957

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Looking for ways to show off new bead shapes to their best advantage? Anna Elizabeth Draeger shares her talent for design in 50+ creative ideas for stitching Tila beads, peanuts, daggers, and other beads into lovely jewelry.

Learn how to: • Choose colors with Anna’s expert design advice • Use a variety of stitches to make bracelets, beaded beads, earrings, and other jewelry • Focus on one bead shape alone or combine several shapes in one piece

GREAT DESIGNS FOR SHAPED BEADS

Use exciting bead shapes to create dimensional jewelry!

Shaped Beads Great Designs for

Tilas

Peanuts Daggers

“ The projects incorporate my favorite stitches, including peyote stitch, herringbone, right-angle weave, netting, and a few other techniques.” — Anna Elizabeth Draeger

64957

U.S. $19.95 CAN $25.95

ISBN 978-0-87116-495-7

51995

9

780871 164957

Step into the crea tive mind of desi gner Anna Eliz you stitch her stun abeth Draeger ning, sparkling as beaded jewelry include bracelet . Featured project s and necklaces s in a range of flatte options for stre ring styles, plus tching your crea tivity by making alternate colorwa earr ings ys, and creating , trying other bonus pro jects.

65 16495 And you don6’t4ha4 ve expert beadertotobegean t started! 0

0

Each project cha pter begins with a design that’s beginner. Step perfect for a -by-step instruc tions and clear bead arrangemen illustrations of t and thread path s will guide you along.

ANNA ELIZ ABET H DRAEGER is an associate editor at Bead &Button magazine, and she is the expert behi nd Bead&Button’s popular online column “Ask Anna.” In 2009, Anna was named an ambassador for the CREATE YOUR STYLE with CRYSTAL LIZED™ – Swarovski Elem ents program, an exclu sive international netw ork of designers who share their passion for these Austrian crystal beauties through their design proje cts and teaching enga gements. Anna teaches at venues including the annu al Bead&Button Show, the Create Your Style in Tucson event, and Perle n Akademie in Dortmund, Germany.

Crystal Brilliance

Stitch up some gla crystal jewelry! morous

From the publisher of Bead&Button, Bead Style, and Art Jewelry magazines

CryBsrtilliaanl ce Making designer jewelry

DRAEGER

www.KalmbachBooks.com

Anna Elizabeth Draeger

with crystal bead s

Also by Anna Elizabeth Draeger

Choose from proj ects in four style s: Classic, Romantic Each project inclu , Geometric, and des a design opti Organic on—a variation Basic techniqu with a twist! es are summari zed in the back of the book for easy reference 62953

U.S.

ISBN 9780-87

$21.95

116-295-

3

5 2 1 9 5

CANADA

$28.95

Draege

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Shaped Beads Great Designs for

Tilas • Peanuts • Daggers

Anna Elizabeth Draeger

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Kalmbach Books 21027 Crossroads Circle Waukesha, Wisconsin 53186 www.Kalmbach.com/Books © 2012 Anna Elizabeth Draeger All rights reserved. Except for brief excerpts for review, this book may not be reproduced in part or in whole by electronic means or otherwise without written permission of the publisher. The jewelry designs in Great Designs for Shaped Beads are the copyrighted property of the author, and they may not be taught or sold without permission. Please use them for your education and personal enjoyment only. Some of the projects in this book have appeared previously in Tiles & Tilas (ISBN 978-0-87116-496-4), Peanuts & Berries (ISBN 978-0-87116-497-1), and Daggers & Drops (ISBN 978-0-87116-498-8). ISBN: 978-0-87116-495-7 E ISBN: 978-0-87116-758-3 Editor: Mary Wohlgemuth Art director: Lisa Bergman Technical editor: Jane Danley Cruz Layout artist: Rebecca Markstein Illustrator: Kellie Jaeger Photographers: James Forbes, William Zuback Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Draeger, Anna Elizabeth. Great designs for shaped beads : tilas, peanuts, daggers / Anna Elizabeth Draeger. p. : col. ill. ; cm. ISBN: 978-0-87116-495-7 1. Beadwork–Handbooks, manuals, etc. 2. Beadwork– Patterns. 3. Jewelry making. I. Title. II. Title: Shaped beads TT860 .D73 2012 745.594/2

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CONTENTS 3

Introduction

The Projects TILES & TILAS 6 10 13 16 19 23

Tila Diamonds Triangulation Marvelous Mosaics St. Pete Meets Tila Zigzag Trellis Cubic Cuties

PEANUTS & BERRIES 26 29 32 35 38 41

Berry Baubles Playful Components Peyote Zigzag Perennial Path Cottage Garden Herringbone Twist

DAGGERS & DROPS 45 48 51 55 59 62

Darling Drops Ring-a-ling Drop Dead Daggers Petal Pendant Dagger & Pearl Pairing Tiny Blossoms

CREATIVE COMBINATIONS 65 68 71 74 77 80

Tulip Lace

84

Basics Review

87

About Anna

Chunky Bangle Dramatic Daggers Checkered Cuffs Sparklers Dainty Daisies

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INTRODUCTION So many new bead shapes are on the market—tile shapes…peanut beads…drops and daggers… Do you see these cool and unusual shapes and wonder how to use them? Sometimes shapes that are out of the ordinary can pose difficulties when trying to incorporate them into your beadwork, but they also provide wonderful design opportunities. This book includes ideas for using each type of bead shape and, in the last section, you’ll find projects that combine several shapes in a single jewelry piece. The projects also call for a supporting cast of beads such as Japanese seed beads and Swarovski Elements crystals and pearls. With the help of the illustrations that accompany each project, most beaders—even motivated beginners—shouldn’t have trouble stitching any of them. The projects incorporate my favorite stitches, including peyote stitch, herringbone, right-angle weave, netting, and a few other beadweaving techniques. If you need a quick lesson on any of the techniques used, such as adding and ending thread, jump to p. 84. I used Fireline 6-lb. test as beading thread for all the projects and #12 beading needles, keeping a few slimmer #13s nearby in case I had any trouble fitting the needle through the beads (some of the designs require several thread passes). You can use your favorite thread and larger or smaller needles as needed. Use even, moderately tight tension as you work. I suggest holding the beadwork in your hands instead of placing it on a work surface. When you work a stitch, pinch the thread where it exits the last bead, and don’t let go until you’ve completed the next stitch. This can take some practice but is worth the effort, resulting in a polished, professional-looking piece of jewelry. Another way to achieve a professional result is to use quality findings that either match your beadwork or act as a focal piece where appropriate. These days, that doesn’t necessarily mean they are made of precious metal; many of the findings I used in these projects are base metal, but they are well-designed, high-quality components that harmonize with my designs.

This book contains projects that appeared in the digital editions Tiles & Tilas, Peanuts & Berries, and Daggers & Drops, as well as nine all-new projects.

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Tiles & Tilas

Miyuki Tila bead

Czech two-hole tile bead

Peanuts & berries Peanut beads—which you may see called farfalle, bowtie, dogbone, butterfly, bubble, or double-bubble beads—have soared in popularity as beaders discover more ways of stitching with them. Peanut beads are distributed by Czech and Japanese manufacturers. You’ll find Czech beads on strands or hanks and Japanese beads in tubes or bags. Standard peanut beads are approximately 2x4mm. The Japanese manufacturer Miyuki makes a similar shape called Berry beads, and these beads are slightly thicker (about 2.5x4.3mm). Although you shouldn’t mix bead types within a project, most projects can be made with any peanut-style bead.

For this project book, I created six designs that showcase the unique characteristics of Miyuki Tila beads and Czech two-hole tile beads. Both beads are flat, square, glass beads with two holes. Tila beads have fairly sharp corners compared with the Czech version. Czech two-hole tile beads have rounded edges and are thicker than Tila beads. Either style will work for most of the designs, but where one works better, only that style is listed in the supplies needed for that project.

Currently, Tila beads are available in 60 colors including translucent and opaque beads, with metallic, matte, AB, and satin finishes (which have a fabulous sheen). Czech tile beads are available in 100 colors, many with unusual finishes. (You’ll sometimes find Czech tile beads with just one hole rather than two—be sure yours have two for these projects.) Both styles are beautiful and inspiring, and manufacturers are developing more options all the time.

You can see some of the subtle differences between the manufacturers’ versions of the peanut shape in the photos on the right. You’ll discover many different colors and special finishes for peanut beads. Some options are opaque, metallic, matte, matte metallic, color-lined, permanent finish, and hybrid colors—a range that provides a wide, delightful color palette. You may notice discrepancies among the peanut bead shapes. If the glass around the hole of the bead is very thin, it could break as you make several thread paths through it, so it is best to discard these. Berry beads don’t have this issue because the glass is thicker near the hole.

Peanut beads

Berry beads

Czech peanuts

Peanut shapes strung together

With seed beads as spacers 4

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Daggers and half-daggers

Teardrops

Long drops Lentil drops

Daggers & drops Daggers and drop beads come in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. I used several styles in the projects, including dagger beads of different sizes, teardrops, magatama fringe beads and long drops, and some unusual shapes like lentil drops and petalshaped drops. Many daggers and drops are pressed glass of Czech origin. Dagger beads come in several sizes and styles. The most common dagger sizes are 3x10mm–7x17mm, and they

are sold in many colors and finishes, often on hanks. You may see half-daggers, which are rounded on one edge and flat on the other, and a 5x16mm two-hole style of dagger. Pressed-glass drops, often referred to as petals, come in a large range of sizes. Other shapes including teardrops, pear-shaped, duck-bill drops, and leaves are all drilled across the top so they hang like a drop bead.

be irregular in shape, so it is best to inspect the beads to find the ones that are most similar. It isn’t necessary to discard odd-shaped drops, but grouping similar drops together will provide the most even stitches. This is most evident with the long drops, and you can sort these beads easily by stringing several on your needle all facing the same direction. Any beads that seem out of the ordinary can be set aside for another project.

Some of the drops are considered seed beads. Magatama drop beads (sometimes called fringe beads) and long drops can

Happy stitching! Each project includes a design option or two to give you ideas for stitching a variation on the main project. As you work, you may discover even more ways to incorporate the techniques or components into your own designs. I hope you enjoy beading these projects!

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Tiles & Tilas

Tila Diamonds Tila beads set on edge with right-angle weave create a central diamond motif. Stack several rows for a bracelet that drapes beautifully around your wrist.

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Tila bead, color B

Tila bead, bead, color color BB (side view) Tila

Tila bead, B color B (side view) Tilacolor bead,

Tila bead, color B

110 bead, seed bead Tila color B (side view)

0 seedB bead bead, (side view) 11color Tila bead, color B (sideTila view)

a

c

110 seed bead

110 seed bead

110 seed bead

d

c

a

a d

c

d

a

c

a

c

d d b

b

b

b

b

fig. 1

fig. 2

fig. 3

Top view

Bottom view

Tila bead, color A Tila bead, color A (side view) c c

Tila bead, color B

c

c

b

Tila bead, color B (side view)

b

a

b 11a0 seed bead

d b

d

e

a

a

d SUPPLIES d

d

Bracelet, a 7c in. (18cm) • 96 Tila beads, color A • 44 Tila beads, color B b seed beads • 5–6 grams 110 • 3-strand clasp • 6 4–6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS

b c

a

Matte black bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL401, matte black (color A); Miyuki TL2002, matte metallic silver-gray (color B) c 110 seed beads:bMiyuki 4222, Duracoat b galvanized pewter

c

a a

c

a

Matte/shiny c b a bronze bracelet a Tila beads: Miyuki TL2006, matte d metallic bronze (color A); Miyuki TL457, metallic bronze (color B) 110 seed beads: Toho Y302, hybrid jet picasso Green/ivory bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL2008, matte metallic bronze (color A); Miyuki TL2592, satin ivory (color B) 110 seed beads: Toho 547, gold- lustered green tea

c

a d b b a e d b b a d e c d

d ba e d b

fig. 4 a

Bottom view

b c

c

1

c

e

c

On 2 yd. of Fireline, pick up four color-B Tila beads, leaving a 12-in. tail. Sew through the same hole of the first B again [fig. 1, a–b].

4

2

5

a cb a fig. 5

c

b

Pick up an 110, and sew through the next B. Repeat this step three times to add an 110 between each bottom hole of the Bs [fig. 3]. Exit an 110. c

c Sew through the remaining Pick and sew c up three 110s, b hole of the same B your thread through the 110 your thread is exiting in the opposite direction b exited at the start b of this step [b–c]. Continue sewingb through [fig. 4, a–b]. Sew through thea d all the remaining holes bottom hole of the next a b of the next a B and 110 a c three Bs in the ring, and the same [b–c]. Repeat this step d three times d d bB ayour thread hole of the first to add a picot to each 110 on the c e ato form a loose exited in this step bottom of the diamond shape. c diamond shape [c–d]. The Exit a center 110 of one of the four picots [c–d]. holes you just sewed through will b be considered the top holes of the a diamond. Pick up four cBs, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step Pick up an 110, and sew through the next B. Repeat [fig. 5, a–b]. Sew through the this step three times to add an 110 bottom hole of the first B again between each top hole of the Bs [b–c]. Sew through the remaining hole of the same B your thread is [fig. 2], and then sew through the exiting in the opposite direction other hole of the same B your thread is exiting in the opposite [c–d]. Sew through all the top direction. holes of all four Bs in the ring to form the next loose diamondc shape [d–e].

6

3

7

b a

b BKS-64957-01_6-87.indd 7

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b

b

a

a

e d

d

e c

c

a c

b c

b

a b

b c a

c

b

c a

d

a

c

fig. 6

fig. 7

c

As you add each diamond shape, make sure you position b the top holes of the As and Bs on the same side of the picots. a

7

d

Repeat steps 3–6, but in step 4, pick up only 110s between three of the bottom holes of the Bs, and skip the 110 connecting the new diamond to the previous picot. In step 5, you will add only three picots instead of four. Each time you complete a diamond, sew through the bottom beads to exit the center 110s of the picot opposite the join.

8

Repeat steps 6 and 7 nine times, or until you reach the desired length minus 1 in. (2.5cm). This will be the center row of the bracelet.

9

At the end of the center row, pick up three 110s, and sew back through the 110 your thread exited at the start of the step [fig. 6, a–b]. Repeat to add a third picot on this end [b–c].

fig. 8

12

Retrace the thread path of the last three picots, and end the working thread. Using the tail, repeat this step on the other end of the center row.

Work the thread through the top and bottom holes of the As to form a loose diamond shape as before. Work steps 3 and 4, but in step 4, pick up only an 110 for the remaining two bottom holes. Skip the existing 110s from the picots in the center row when sewing through the bottom four holes of the As. The bottom 110 along the edge of the side row of As will not have picots added.

10

13

11

14

You may want to pick up seven 110s for the end picot instead of three if your jump rings are thick; you will attach the clasp to this end picot. I picked up seven to accommodate my jump rings.

Add a new length of thread on one end of the strip, leaving a 12-in. (30cm) tail, and exit the side 110 of the picot next to the end diamond from the center row [fig. 7, point a]. Make sure your thread points toward the other end of the bracelet. Pick up a color-A Tila bead, and sew through the bottom 110 in the next side picot from the center row [a–b]. Pick up three As, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step [b–c].

Using the tail, sew through the next A and the following 110. Pick up the same number of beads you picked up for the third picot added in step 7 [fig. 8]. Reinforce the beads added in this step, and end the tail.

Using the working thread, sew through the beadwork to exit the top 110 of the next side picot from the center row [fig. 9, point a]. Pick up an A, and sew through the side 110 of the next connecting picot from the center row [a–b]. Pick up an A, and sew

8

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c a

b

c

c b a d

fig. 9

through the bottom 110 of the next side picot from the center row [b–c]. Pick up two As, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step [c–d] and the next A. Sew through the remaining hole of the same A your thread is exiting. Work the thread path through the top holes to form a loose diamond, and then work steps 3 and 4, but in step 4, pick up only an 110 for the remaining bottom hole. Skip the existing 110s from the picots in the center row when sewing through the bottom four holes of the As. The bottom 110 along the edge of the side row of As will not have a picot added. Repeat this step until you reach the other end, and then work one unit as in steps 12 and 13, adding the picot to the other end of the row. End the working thread.

15

Work a third row of As off the other side of the center row as in steps 10–14. Attach a clasp to the end picots with jump rings.

design options bracelets Use Czech two-hole tile beads to make a chunkier version of this bracelet. Substitute size 80 seed beads in place of the 110s. Or, make a single strand for a delicate alternative.

COLORS Matte/shiny black/gray bracelet Two-hole tile beads in place of Tila beads: Czech, jet (color A); Czech, matte iris purple (color B) 80 seed beads in place of 110 seed beads: Toho 989, bronze-lined crystal Single-strand braclet Tila beads: Miyuki TL1865, opaque smoke grey luster 110 seed beads: Toho 401, opaque black

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Tiles & Tilas

Triangulation String tile beads and 100 cylinder beads to create a comfortable base for peek-a-boo pearls or a little crystal glimmer. Stack tiles en pointe for an unusual profile.

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Tile bead Tile bead (side view) Tile bead 3mm bicone crystal or pearl Tile bead (side view)

SUPPLIES

Bracelet, 6 in. (15cm) • 45 Czech tile beads • 15 3mm bicone crystals or pearls • 3–4 grams 100 round or hex cylinder beads, or 1.5mm cube beads • 1–2 grams 110 cylinder beads • 1 gram 150 seed beads • Clasp • 2 4mm jump rings • Fireline, 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

10 round or hex cylinder bead, or 1.5mm cube bead bead Tile0Tile bead Tile bead view) 3mm bicone(side crystal or pearl 110 cylinder bead 10 round orcrystal hexview) cylinder 3mm bicone or pearlbead, or 1.5mm cube bead bead (side view) Tile00Tile bead (side seed bead 15

a a a

COLORS

110 cylinder bead 0 round 103mm orcrystal hex cylinder bead, or 1.5mm cube bead bicone crystal or pearl 3mm bicone or pearl b 150 seed bead d c 110 cylinder bead 0 round or hex cylinder bead, or 1.5mm cube bead 10010 round or hex cylinder bead, or 1.5mm cube bead 150 seed bead b11011 0 cylinder bead cylinder bead d c 0 seed bead seed bead 15015 b d c b b

d d

c c

a a

Black bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL401F, matte opaque black 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, garnet satin 100 hex-cut cylinder beads: Miyuki 0021, steel metallic 110 hex-cut cylinder beads: Miyuki 0021, steel metallic 150 seed beads: nickel-plated

a a

fig. 1

Olive green bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL2008, matte metallic patina iris 3mm pearls: Swarovski, light green 1.5mm cube beads: Toho F458, matte metallic khaki iris 110 cylinder beads: Toho 617, matte dark olive 150 seed beads: Toho 457, gold-lustered green tea

c

b

c

b

c

a a a

b

fig. 2 c c

b b

Green/bronze bracelet Czech tile beads: Persian turquoise, Picasso finish 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, sand opal 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0254, bronze luster 110 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0254, bronze luster 150 seed beads: Toho 995, dichroic-lined aqua AB

fig. 3

fig. 4

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, attach a stop bead, leaving a 12-in. (30cm) tail [fig. 1, a–b]. Sew through one hole of a tile bead and pick up three 100 cylinder beads [b–c]. Repeat the pattern [c–d] until you reach the desired length, minus the length of your clasp. End with a tile bead.

2

Pick up five 100s, and sew through the remaining hole of the end tile bead [fig. 2, a–b]. Pick

up three 100s, and sew through the remaining hole of the next tile bead [b–c]. Repeat until you reach the first tile bead on the other end. Pick up five 100s, and sew through the other hole of the end tile bead to make a loop for the clasp.a

3

Pick up a 150 seed bead,aa 3mm bicone crystal or pearl, and a 150. Sew through thea other hole of the same tile bead so the beads just added lie diagonally a a across the tile bead [fig. 3].

4

Pick up a 150, sew through the 3mm, and pick up a 150. Sew through the other hole of the same tile bead, the next three 100s, and the corresponding hole b of the next tile bead [fig. 4].

5   6

Repeat bsteps 3 and 4 for the length of the bracelet. End b the working thread and tail. a

Addb2 byd. (1.8m) of Fireline to one end a b of the bracelet, and exit ca center 100 before the a

11

b

c a ab c BKS-64957-01_6-87.indd 11

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first base tile bead on one side of the bracelet [fig. 5, point a]. Pick up an 110 cylinder bead, one hole of a tile bead, an 110, a 150, an 110, one hole of a tile bead, and an 110, and sew through the center 100 before the next base tile bead [a–b]. Repeat this stitch along this side of the bracelet, exiting the second 100 in the clasp loop [fig. 6, point a].

7

Pick up a 150, and sew through the end 100 [a–b]. Pick up a 150, and sew through the next 100 [b–c].

8

Pick up an 110, and sew through the remaining hole in the last tile bead picked up in step 6. Pick up an 110, a 150, and an 110, and sew through the remaining hole of the next tile bead picked up in step 6. Pick up an 110, and sew through the

center 100 before the next base tile bead. Repeat along this side of the bracelet, then repeat step 7 on the other end.

9

Retrace the thread path along the first side of the bracelet, skipping the 150s to pull the peaks into a tight angle. You may have to poke the tip of your needle through the 150 as you pull the working thread so the 150 pops up, forming the point.

b b

a a

fig. 5 a a b c

b

c fig. 6

10

Sew through the end beads, and then repeat step 9 on the other side of the bracelet. End the working thread.

11

Open a jump ring, and attach half of the clasp to one end of the bracelet. Repeat on the other end of the bracelet.

design option ring

COLORS Ring Tila beads: Miyuki TL370, sea foam luster 3mm pearls: Swarovski, black 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0010, black 110 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0010, black 150 seed beads: Toho 456, gunmetal iris

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, pick up a pattern as in step 1 for a total of seven tile beads and seven sets of 100s. Tie the beads into a ring, exiting a tile bead. Sew through the other hole of the same tile bead to change direction, add three 100s between each tile bead, and exit a tile bead. Embellish the next three tile beads as in steps 3 and 4 of the bracelet. Sew through the beadwork to exit a center 100 on one side of the ring in the set of 100s before the next embellished tile bead. Work as in steps 6 and 8 to add three peaks over the 3mms. Retrace the thread path, and end the thread. To adjust the band size, omit some of the 100 cylinders at the base of the ring. For my size-8 ring, I used only one cylinder per Tila bead hole at the base, and as I reinforced the thread path around the ring, I skipped the center cylinders at the lower corners to snug up the size. 12

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Tiles & Tilas

Marvelous Mosaics

Stack Tila beads back-to-back to align the pairs of holes. Stitch them together to make a mini mosaic design for your wrist!

13

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d

d

SUPPLIES

Tila bead (side view), color A

Bracelet, 6 ⁄ in. (15.9cm)a c d • 44 Tila beads, color A • 33 Tila beads, color B • 2–3 grams 100 cylinder beads • 1–2bgrams 150 seed beads • Clasp • 2 4mm jump rings • Fireline, 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers 14

a

c

b

b

a

c

COLORS Black bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL2002, metallic gray AB (color A); Miyuki TL464, hematite (color B) c a b 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0310, matte black 150 seed beads: Miyuki 464A, nickel plated Green bracelet a c b Tila beads: Miyuki TL2008, matte metallic green iris (color A); and Miyuki TL468, metallic green iris (color B) 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0327, matte metallic teal iris 150 seed beads: Miyuki 650, moss green silver-lined AB Brown bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL458, brown metallic iris (color A); and Miyuki TL2592, cream satin (color B) 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0007, brown metallic iris 150 seed beads: Miyuki 458, brown iris

d d

Tila bead (side view), color B 100 cylinder bead a

150 seed bead

d d

b

a c

c b c fig. 1

ba

a

b

ac

b

a cd

b

c Tila bead (side view), color A Tila bead (side view), color B

100 cylinder bead b

150 seed bead fig. 3

fig. 2

1

On 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, sew through one hole of a color-A Tila bead and one hole of a color-B Tila bead, leaving a 10-in. (25cm) tail. Sew through the same hole of the A, stacking the two Tila beads next to each other. Retrace the thread path, and exit the B [fig. 1, a–b]. The thread path will be connecting the bottom holes of the Tila beads.

5

2

6

Sew through the bottom hole of a new B, and sew through the bottom hole of the previous B. Retrace the thread path, and exit the new B. Repeat this step for a total of three stacked Bs [b–c].

3

Sew through the bottom hole of a new A, and sew through the bottom hole of the previous B. Retrace the thread path, and exit the new A [c–d].

4

Sew through the top hole of the A your thread exited at the start of this step, and work a thread path through the top holes of the stack of the Tila beads to mimic the thread path through the bottom holes. Exit the top hole of the end A.

Pick up a 100 cylinder bead, and sew through the top hole of a new A. Pick up a 100, and sew through the top hole of the A on the opposite end of the stack [fig. 2, a–b]. Repeat this step [b–c], and retrace the thread path through the top holes of the As surrounding the Bs, skipping the 100s to pull the As into a tight square shape. Exit an A [c–d].

Sew through the bottom hole of the A your thread exited at the start of this step, pick up a 100, and sew through the bottom hole of the next A. Repeat around to add a 100 to each bottom corner. Retrace the thread path, skipping the 100s. End the working thread.

7

Using the tail, exit a bottom 100, then pick up three 100s. Sew back through the bottom 100 your thread exited at the start of this stitch, and retrace the thread path through the 100s [fig. 3, a–b]. Exiting one of the bottom 100s, pick up a 150 seed bead, and sew through the next bottom 100 in the ring. Repeat around [b–c], retrace the thread path, and end the tail.

14

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a c

d d

a c

Tila bead (side view), color A Tila bead (side view), color B 100 cylinder bead

a

8 9

Repeat steps 1–6. b

a

b

c

b

150 seed bead

c

Using the tail, exit a bottom 100, and pick up a 100. Sew through a bottom 100 in the previous unit opposite the ring of beads created in step 7. Pick up a 100, and sew through the bottom 100 your thread exited at the start of this stitch [fig. 4]. Retrace the thread path of the four 100s, pick up a 150, and sew through the next bottom 100 in the ring. Repeat around, retrace the thread path, and end the tail.

10

Make a total of 11 units (or as many units needed to achieve the desired length), connecting each unit to the previous one, opposite the connecting ring. For the last unit, don’t end the working thread, but make a ring of beads as in step 7 on the remaining end.

fig. 4

11

Attach half the clasp to one end of the bracelet with a jump ring. Repeat to attach the other half of the clasp to the remaining end of the bracelet.

design option earrings COLORS Tila beads: Miyuki TL2005, matte metallic dark raspberry iris (color A); Miyuki TL301, dark topaz rainbow gold luster (color B) 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 680, matte metallic green/pink 150 seed beads: Toho 703, matte cabernet

1 2

Make two units as in steps 1–6 of the bracelet.

Using the tails, make rings of beads as in step 7 off the bottom 100 and the top 100 on the same corner of each unit.

3

Hang the drops from a hoop-style earring, or run a jump ring through both rings of beads and attach the drop to an earring finding.

15

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Tiles & Tilas

St. Pete Meets Tila

St. Petersburg chain produces a feminine, feathery band of beadwork. Stitch Tila beads and crystals into a fashionable bracelet.

16

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It’s important to retrace the thread path while repeating steps 4–6 or the bracelet will twist between the Tila beads and will not lie flat.

SUPPLIES

Bracelet, 61⁄2 in. (16.5cm) • About 26 Tila beads • 52 4mm bicone crystals • 2 grams 150 seed beads • 1 gram 110 seed beads • Clasp • 2 4mm jump rings • Fireline, 6- or 8-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

the beads in the fringe, exiting the 110 at the top of the fringe [c–d]. Using gentle tension, sew through the right hole of the last Tila bead [d–e], centering the fringe under the hole it exits. This keeps the path clear for the next Tila bead that will be added.

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, attach a stop bead, leaving a 10-in. (25cm) tail. Sew through the right hole of a Tila bead and the left hole of a second Tila bead [fig. 1].

COLORS Gold bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL462, gold iris 4mm crystals: Swarovski, white opal AB 2X 110 seed beads: Miyuki 3101, rose gold luster 150 seed beads: Miyuki 462, metallic gold iris Purple bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL401FR, black opaque matte AB 4mm crystals: Swarovski, cyclamen opal 110 seed beads: Miyuki 9312, lilac gold luster 150 seed beads: Miyuki 2212, lined aqua AB

c

4

Pick up an 110, a 4mm, and three 150s. Skip the three 150s, and sew back through the 4mm, the 110, and the right hole of the Tila bead your thread exited at the start of this step [fig. 4, a–b].

2

Pick up an 110 seed bead, a 4mm bicone crystal, and three 150 seed beads. Skip the three 150s, and sew back through the 4mm, the 110, the left hole of the last Tila bead added, and the right hole of the previous Tila bead [fig. 2, a–b]. Pick up five 150s, and sew through the left hole of the same Tila bead [b–c].

5

Sew through the left hole of a new Tila bead, and pick up an 110, a 4mm, and three 150s. Skip the three 150s, and sew back through the 4mm, the 110, and the same hole of the last Tila bead [b–c].

3

6

Pick up an 110, a 4mm, and three 150s. Skip the three 150s, and sew back through the 4mm, the 110, and the left hole of the Tila bead [fig. 3, a–b], the first two 150s (skipping the center b c b 150), and the last two 150s in the end loop [b–c]. Sew through the e left right hole of the Tila abead, the hole of the next Tila bead, and all a

Reinforce the last two steps: Continue through the right hole of the previous Tila bead and the beads in the fringe above it. Sew down through the right hole of the same Tila bead, the left hole of the last Tila bead added, the beads in the fringe below it, and, a using gentle tension, the right hole of the last bTila bead added. c

d

b

b

Tila bead 4mm bicone crystal

b

c

110 seed bead

c

150 seed bead

b a

b b

ac

c

a c a

b ce a d

b a e d

a

fig. 2

b

ec e

a d

ac

a

b

b c

ca b

c

d

Tila bead fig. 1 4mmTila bicone Tilacrystal bead bead

a

c

fig. 3

fig. 4

110 seed bead crystal Tila bead 4mm 4mm biconebicone crystal 150 seed bead seed bead 110 bead 17 110 seed 4mm bicone crystal seed bead 150 bead 150 seed 110 seed bead BKS-64957-01_6-87.indd 17

150 seed bead

7/5/12 9:39 AM

7

Repeat steps 4–6 until you reach your desired length minus the length of the clasp, and then repeat step 4.

8

b

Sew through the left hole of a new Tila bead, pick up five c 150s, and sew through the right hole of the same Tila bead. Pick a three 150s. up an 110, a 4mm, and Skip the three 150s, and sew back through the 4mm, the 110, and the same hole of the last Tila bead. Sew through two 150s, skip Tila bead a 150, and sew through the next two 150s and the left hole of the

Tila bead [fig. 5]. Retrace the thread path through the last few fringe and Tila beads, and end the working thread, remove the stop bbead, cand end the tail.

9 a

a of Attach e a clasp to each end the bracelet with jump rings. b

c

d

fig. 5

4mm bicone crystal 110 seed bead

design option necklace

150 seed bead

COLORS Tila beads: Miyuki TL462, gold iris 4mm crystals: Swarovski, purple velvet 110 seed beads: Miyuki 336, dark rose yellow-lined 150 seed beads: Miyuki 462, metallic gold iris

To make a necklace, simply attach a chain to each end of the bracelet, and attach half of the clasp to each end of the chain.

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Tiles & Tilas

Zigzag Trellis Stringing different quantities or sizes of beads between opposite holes of Tila beads produces a zigzag effect. Make a dainty bracelet or necklace with a single row, or explore the options for linking two or more rows for a lacy latticework band.

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g h

SUPPLIES

e

Tila bead

Single-row bracelet, 7 ⁄ in. (19cm) • 24 Tila beads • 1–2 grams 150 seed beads • 1–2 grams 110 seed beads • Fireline, 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 or #13 • Clasp or multistrand clasp • Quantity of 4mm jump rings equal to number of loops of the clasp • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers 38

a 110 seed bead

f

150 seed bead

g ee c

Tila beads: Miyuki TL421B, opaque cream pearl 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, olivine 110 seed beads: Miyuki 460H, gold-bronze metallic iris

gg

110 seed bead 150 seed bead

fig. 1

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, attach a stop bead, leaving a 10-in. (25cm) tail.

2

Sew through one hole of a Tila bead, and pick up a 150 seed bead, an 110 seed bead, and a 150. Sew through one hole of a Tila bead and pick up a 150 [fig. 1]. Repeat this pattern until you have 24 Tila beads, or until you’re a little past your desired length. (If you’re making more than one row, be sure to end with an even number of Tila beads.) The row will shorten a bit as you add a second row of seed beads to the remaining holes of the Tila beads.

3

To make a loop at the end of the row, pick up a 150, an 110, three 150s, an 110, and a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the end Tila bead [fig. 2].

hh

d

i

fig. 2 c

Tila bead bead Tila

First row

ff

Tila bead

COLORS

Bead quantities above are for a single-row bracelet. Multiply by the desired number of rows if you’re making a multi-row version (see p. 21).

h

aab

c

4

If you have a single bead seed bead 1100 seed between 11 the lastbead two Tila seed bead 1500aseed beads, pick up 150,bead an 110, and a 15 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the next Tila bead. If you have three beads between the last two Tila beads, pick up a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the next Tila bead. Continue down cc the length of the bracelet, adding a 150, an 110, and a 150 next to the single bead, and a 150 next to the set of three beads, sewing through the remaining hole of the next Tila bead each time [fig. 3, a–b].

5

When you reach the other end, check the length, keeping the clasp in mind. Stop here for a bracelet that is a single zigzag row. If you are making only a single row, end with the loops pointing in opposite directions. Make a loop on this end as in step 3 [b–c]. Retrace the thread path, and end the threads. Attach a clasp to the end loops with jump rings.

j

b

b fig. 3

a

d

bb

i c j b

If you are adding dd subsequent rows, end with the loops pointing in the same direction as shown. If you are making only one row, end with the loops pointing in the jj opposite direction so the bb clasp will lie straight.

a ii cc

aa

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Second row

e a f

g h

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, attach a stop bead, leaving a 6-in tail. Sew through the side 110 of the loop on one end of the previous zigzag row [fig. 4, a–b].

2

Pick up a 150, and sew through one hole of a new Tila bead [b–c]. Pick up a 150, sew through one hole of a new Tila bead, pick up a 150, and sew through the next 110 from the previous zigzag row [c–d]. Repeat this step until you reach the last 110 in the previous zigzag row [d–e].

3

Pick up three 150s, an 110, and a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the end Tila bead [e–f].

c

6

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you reach the second-to-last Tila bead on the other end of the bracelet [h–i]. Repeat step 4 to exit the last Tila bead. Finish the end loop by picking up a 150, an 110, and three 150s, and sewing through the side 110 next to the stop bead [i–j]. Retrace the thread path, and end the threads. For each additional pair of rows, work steps 1–5 as described for the first zigzag row. Work steps 1–6 as for the second row, but in steps 4 and 6, sew through an 110 along one edge of a previous pair of rows to join the two pairs together.

7

Use jump rings to attach a multistrand clasp.

4

Pick up a 150, an 110, and a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the next Tila bead [f–g].

b

5

Pick up a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the next Tila bead [g–h].

d i c j b a

fig. 4

21

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design options earrings, rings, and multi-row bracelets

The instructions on the previous page show you how to turn a single zigzag into a multirow bracelet by mirroring the position of the rows. Make a pair of zigzag earrings by working a short single row. To make a ring, pick up an even number of repeats to fit around your finger (the band will shrink as you work the second thread path of the first row), and tie the beads into a ring. Add a seed bead edging to a single row, or make two rows to produce a wider band.

COLORS Earrings Tila beads: Miyuki TL301, dark topaz rainbow gold luster 110 seed beads: Miyuki 359, light topaz-lined aqua 3mm crystals: Swarovski, olivine

Double-row ring Tila beads: Miyuki TL3173, transparent oyster luster 110 seed beads: Dyna-mites 4577, silver-lined light gray rainbow 150 seed beads: Miyuki 456, gunmetal iris

Four-row bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL401FR, opaque black matte AB 110 seed beads: Toho PF553, galvanized pink lilac 150 seed beads: Miyuki 0505, higher metallic dragonfly

Single-row ring Tila beads: Miyuki TL1865, opaque smoke gray luster 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, black diamond 2mm round crystals: Swarovski, jet 150 seed beads: Miyuki 401, black

Double-row bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL2006, metallic gold matte 110 seed beads: Miyuki 2022, dark creme matte 150 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0031, 24k gold plated

Six-row bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL468, green gold metallic 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0373, matte metallic sage green luster 110 cylinder beads: Miyuki 1053, matte metallic plum emerald gold

Double-row bracelet #2 Tila beads: Miyuki TL464, hematite 110 seed beads: Toho 9190, nickel plated 150 seed beads: Miyuki 401, black 22

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Tiles & Tilas

Cubic Cuties Right-angle weave provides the structure for these precise beaded beads. Suspend them as links between chunky lengths of chain, snuggle them in a bracelet, or suspend a pair for earrings.

23

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SUPPLIES

For each beaded bead

1

COLORS

For one bead, 1⁄2 x 5⁄16 in. (1.3cm x 8mm) • 4 Tila beads • 12 2mm round crystals • 8 3mm bicones • 1 gram 110 seed beads • 1 gram 150 seed beads • Fireline, 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12

On 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, pick up four 3mm bicone crystals. Sew back through the first 3mm to form a ring. Retrace the thread path, exiting the first 3mm picked up [fig. 1, a–b].

Bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL2008 2mm round crystals: Swarovski, crystal silver shade 8mm rondelles: Swarovski, purple haze 4mm bicones: Swarovski, metallic green 3mm bicones: Swarovski, erinite 110 seed beads: Miyuki 361, yellow-lined aqua 150 seed beads: Toho F463B, matte metallic teal iris

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

Necklace, 28 in. (71cm) • 14 3mm bicone crystals • 16 in. (41cm) chain • 14 in. (36cm) 20-gauge wire • 2 4mm jump rings • Clasp (optional) • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers • Roundnose pliers • Wire cutters

2

Pick up an 110 seed bead, and sew through the next 3mm in the ring. Repeat around the ring, and exit through an 110 [b–c].

3

Make four spokes that will create the sides of the beaded bead: Pick up an 110, and sew through one hole of a Tila bead. Pick up three 110s, and sew through the other hole of the same Tila bead. Pick up an 110, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step [fig. 2, a–b]. Sew through the next 3mm and following 110 in the ring [b–c]. Repeat this step three times [c–d].

Necklace Tila beads: Miyuki TL206, matte bronze metallic iris 3mm bicones: Swarovski, olivine 3mm bicones: Swarovski, crystal dorado 2X 2mm round crystals: Swarovski, jet 110 seed beads: metallic green iris 150 seed beads: Toho 506, higher metallic june bug

Bracelet, 7 in. (18cm) • 7 6mm crystal rondelles • 14 4mm bicones • 1 gram 150 seed beads • 2 crimp beads • Clasp • Beading wire, .014–.015 • Crimping pliers • Wire cutters

4

Sew through the next 110, the adjacent hole of the Tila bead, and the first two 110s of the first spoke [d–e]. Pick up a 3mm, and sew through the next ccenter 110 Tila bead of the three 110s of the next spoke [e–f]. Repeatb three times, 3mm biconethe thread path through retrace a the ring of 3mms, and sew 110 seed bead through an adjacent 110.

Earrings Tila beads: Miyuki TL401FR, matte black AB 4mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, purple velvet 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, violet opal 2mm round crystals: Swarovski, crystal silver shade 110 seed beads: Toho 384, grape color-lined purple 150 seed beads: Toho F463S, steel blue

Earrings • 4 4mm bicone crystals • 2 headpins • Pair of earring wires • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers • Roundnose pliers

150 seed bead

e

Tila bead Tila bead

c

c

c a

a

110 seed bead 110 seed bead 150 seed bead 150 seed bead

fig. 1

e

f

a

d b

a

fig. 2

24

d b c

BKS-64957-01_6-87.indd 24

d b

b

b 3mm bicone 3mm bicone

e

a

c 7/5/12 9:39 AM

c b

Bracelet

c

1 2

Make six beaded beads.

a

b

a

d

d fig. 3

Cut 12 in. (30cm) of beading wire. On one end, pick up a crimp bead and half of a clasp. Go back through the crimp bead and crimp it. Trim the tail.

3

String a 150. String a pattern of a 4mm bicone crystal, a 150, an 8mm rondelle, a 150, a 4mm, and a beaded bead five times, and pick up a 4mm, a 150, an 8mm, a 150, a 4mm, and a 150.

b d b

c c

4 fig. 4

5

Pick up five 150 seed beads, and sew through the next 110 in the ring. Repeat the last stitch three times. Retrace the thread path, skipping the center 150 of each corner stitch to pull the 150s into a square shape [fig. 3]. Sew through the beadwork to add the corner 150s to the other end of the beaded bead. Sew through the first two 150s of the next corner stitch.

6

To embellish the edge, pick up two 150s, three 2mm round crystals, and two 150s. Sew through the center 150 at the opposite end of the bead, and back through the last seven beads picked up. Skip the center 150 of the corner stitch, and sew through the next two 150s, the 110, and two 150s of the next corner stitch [fig. 4]. Repeat this step three times, then sew through the beadwork to exit two 150s of a corner stitch on the opposite end of the beaded bead. Retrace the thread path through the edge embellishments. End the thread.

Attach the other half of the clasp as in step 2.

Necklace

1 2 3

Make seven beaded beads (mine are of assorted colors). Cut six 2-in. (5cm) lengths of chain.

Cut 2 in. (5cm) of 20-gauge wire. Make a plain loop on one end of the wire. String a 3mm bicone and a beaded bead, and make another plain loop. Repeat for the remaining beaded beads.

center link or links of the chain and attach a clasp to the end links with jump rings.

Earrings

1 2

Make two beaded beads.

On a 1½-in. (3.8cm) headpin, string a 4mm bicone crystal, a beaded bead, and a 4mm. Make a plain or wrapped loop above the 4mm.

3

Open the loop on an earring finding, and attach the loop of the dangle.

4

Repeat to make a second earring.

To use Czech tile beads in this project, you need to bump up the seed bead sizes, resulting in a larger beaded bead. Use 80s in place of 110s, 110s in place of 150s, and 4mm bicone crystals in place of 3mms. The 2mms remain the same.

4

Open a loop on one end of the beaded bead, and attach the end link of one of the 2-in. lengths of chain. Open the loop on the other end of the beaded bead and attach a second chain. Repeat with the remaining beaded beads and chains, ending with a beaded bead on each end.

5

Determine the desired finished length, and cut the remaining chain to this length. Open a loop of one of the end beaded beads, and attach it to an end link of the chain. Repeat with the remaining end beaded bead. If desired, cut the

25

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Peanuts & Berries

Berry Baubles

Embellish right-angle weave to make fun and funky beaded beads. Show off each one among crystals and pearls in a necklace, or make more and string them closely for a bold bracelet.

26

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SUPPLIES

d e

d

Necklace, 17½ in. (44.5cm) • 120 Berry beads • 5–6 grams 110 seed beads • 4–5 grams 150 seed beads • 22 5mm bicone crystals • 12 6mm pearls • 6 8mm pearls • 2 crimp beads • Clasp • Beading wire, .014 • Fireline, 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • Crimping pliers g • Wire cutters

f

e

b

a c

f

e

b

a c

Ber

d

b

c

a

b

110 seed bead

d

150 seed bead

b

c

a

f

d c

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, pick up four Berry beads, and sew through the first Berry bead picked up to form a ring, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail.

2

Pick up an 110 and sew d through the next Berry bead in the ring. Repeat this step three c times, and sew through the next 110, Berry bead, 110, Berry bead, and 110 [fig. 1, a–b].

3

a

e

b

a

c

fig. 2

COLORS Berry beads: Miyuki F463K, green-pink matte metallic iris 110 seed beads: Miyuki F463K, green-pink matte metallic iris 150 seed beads: Toho 460A, raspberry bronze iris d 5mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, golden shadow 6mm pearls: Swarovski, dark green 8mm pearls: Swarovski, bright gold

g

fig. 1

Berry bead

Pick up three 110s, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step [b–c]. Pick up a 150, and sew through the next 110 picked up in this step. Repeat the last stitch three times, and sew through the next 150, 110, and 150, and exit the 110 opposite the 110 connecting the seed bead unit to the Berry bead unit [c–d].

110

g

f

d

4

Form the next Berry bead unit: Pick up four Berry beads, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step [d–e]. Sew through the a next Berry bead. Pick up an 110, a next Berry and sew through the f bead. Repeat the last stitch twice, and then esewd through thef next five beads and c exit the 110e opposite the 110 connecting the previous 110 unit to the new Berry bead unit [e–f]. b

5 6

Repeat steps 3 and 4 b twice [f–g].

Join the units into a ring: Pick up an 110, and sew through the end 110 from the first stitch [fig. 2, a–b]. Pick up an 110, and sew through the end 110 from the last stitch [b–c]. Pick up a 150, and sew through the next 110 in the connecting ring. Repeat the last stitch three times, and then sew through the nearest Berry bead unit to exit an open 110 along one edge [c–d].

27

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150

b

b

c

a

d

a f

d c

e

b

fig. 3

fig. 4

Top view

7

9

11

8

10

12

Repeat steps 3 and 4, and then work as in step 6 to join the Berry bead unit just completed to the open 110 in the Berry bead unit opposite the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step [fig. 3, a–b]. Sew through the next Berry bead, 110, and Berry bead, and exit the 110 opposite the last join. Repeat this step, but sew through the nearest Berry bead unit to exit an open 110 [point c]. Work as in step 6 to connect the remaining open 110s between any two adjacent Berry bead units [c–d]. Repeat [e–f] to connect the remaining Berry bead units.

Sew through the 150, 110, and 150 on one side of a 110 unit. Pick up three 150s, and sew through the 150, 110, and 150 from an adjacent 110 unit. Repeat the last stitch twice to create three picots between the 110 units connecting the adjacent Berry bead units [fig. 4]. Repeat on all the 110 units, and end the threads. Make a total of five beaded beads.

On 24 in. (61cm) of beading wire, string a crimp bead and half the clasp. Go back through the crimp bead, and crimp it. Trim the tail.

String seven 110s, a 5mm bicone crystal, an 110, a 6mm pearl, an 110, an 8mm pearl, an 110, a 6mm, an 110, a 5mm, seven 110s, a 5mm, a Berry bauble, and a 5mm. Repeat this stringing sequence four more times, and then string seven 110s, a 5mm bicone crystal, an 110, a 6mm pearl, an 110, an 8mm pearl, an 110, a 6mm, an 110, a 5mm, and seven 110s.

String a crimp bead and the other half of the clasp, and crimp the crimp bead. Trim the tail.

design option ring Make a single Berry bauble and display it using an interchangeable ring finding. You could also make a pair of these fun beaded beads and string them on a headpin between two crystals to make earrings.

COLORS: Berry beads: Miyuki BB263, sea foam-lined crystal AB 110 seed beads: Miyuki 4216, Duracoat dark sea foam 150 seed beads: Toho 39, silver-lined tanzanite 28

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Peanuts & Berries

Playful Components Peanut beads nestle together so nicely. Using a combination of peyote stitch and netting techniques produces cute little components that work well in all sorts of accessories.

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SUPPLIES

Bracelet, 63⁄4 in. (17.1cm) 4mm pearl • 8 4mm pearls 4mm pearl • Peanut beads: Peanut bead, color A 96 color A Peanut bead, color A Peanut bead, color B 144 color B Peanut bead, color B • 3–4 grams 150 seed beads150 seed bead 150 seed bead • Clasp • 2 4–6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

d a b

c

d ea b

e

c

fig. 1

fig. 2

COLORS d

e Swarovski, burgundy 4mm pearls: a Peanutb beads: 464, nickel plated (color A); 457N, burgundy bronze (color B) 150 seed beads: Miyuki 464, c nickel plated

mm pearl

eanut bead, color A

eanut bead, color B

50 seed bead

fig. 3

1

On 18 in. (46cm) of Fireline, pick up a 150 seed bead, a 4mm pearl, and a 150, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Sew back through the pearl and the first 150 so the working thread and tail exit opposite ends of the 150 [fig. 1, a–b].

2

Pick up a pattern of a color-A peanut bead and a 150 twice, and then pick up an A. Sew through the 150 on the opposite end of the 4mm [b–c]. Repeat [c–d], and then retrace the thread path of the outer ring, exiting an A [d–e]. End the 6-in. tail.

3

Pick up a color-B peanut bead, and sew through the next A in the ring. Repeat five times to complete the round, exiting the first B picked up in this step [fig. 2].

4

Pick up a B, an A, and a B, and sew through the next B in the previous round. Repeat five times to complete the round, retrace the thread path of this round, and exit a center A added in this round [fig. 3].

5

Pick up 11 150s, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step. Retrace the thread path, skipping every third 150 to pull the ring into a diamond shape [fig. 4]. End the thread.

6

Repeat steps 1–4 to make another component, then connect it to the previous component: Pick up five 150s, and sew through an A on the previous component opposite the ring of 150s. Pick up five 150s, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step. Retrace the thread path, skipping the center 150s [fig. 5]. End the thread.

7

Work as in step 6 for the desired number of components, but for the last component, after completing the join, sew through the outer edge of the beadwork to make a ring of 150s as in step 5 opposite the last join. End the thread.

8

Open a jump ring, and attach half of the clasp to an end loop of 150s. Repeat on the other end.

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Peanut bead, color A Peanut bead, color B 150 seed bead

d

c

d

e 4mm pearl

a b

e

a b

Peanut bead, color A Peanut bead, color B c

150 seed bead

c

fig. 4

fig. 5

design option ring and earrings COLORS Ring 3mm pearl: Swarovski, cream Peanut beads: Miyuki 2002, metallic olive (color A); Miyuki 2002MA, metallic olive matte (color B) 150 seed beads: Toho 457, gold-lustered green tea Earrings 4mm pearl: Swarovski, burgundy Berry beads: Miyuki 2441, cinnamon gold luster 150 seed beads: Toho 457, gold-lustered green tea

To make a ring, repeat steps 1–4 to make one component, but substitute a 3mm pearl instead of a 4mm pearl if desired. Work in a way similar to step 5 to make a band of 150s until you reach the desired band size. Connect the band to the opposite A in the component. Use Berry beads in only one color for the earrings, and work steps 1–3 to make a smaller component. Make a loop as in step 5, and attach an earring finding to the loop.

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Peanuts & Berries

Peyote Zigzag The shape of peanut beads adds dimension and weight to beadwork, lending a high-quality look and feel to simple stitches. For this choker, use diagonal peyote stitch to create a sophisticated piece of jewelry with tiny crystals along the edge for just the right touch of sparkle.

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d a

d a

c d

peanut bead

c

a

2mm round crystal or 110 seed bead c

150 seed bead b

d d d

b

peanut bead peanut bead peanut bead 0 seed bead 2mm round crystal or 011seed bead 2mm round crystal or 11 0 2mm round crystal or 11 seed bead 0 seed bead bead 15015seed 150 seed bead

a a a

b

b

b b b a

d

c

d d c c d c

SUPPLIES

Peanut beads: Czech, jet picasso 2mm round crystals: Swarovski, crystal silver shade 150 seed beads: black

f

fig. 3

b b d d b dc c g If you don’t like to work with doubled thread,c you can use e

b b b 8-lb. Fireline in place of the doubled 6-lb. Ending and adding

Choker, 143⁄4 in. (37.5cm) • 25–30 grams peanut beads c c • 231 2mm round crystals c (or 110 seed beads) a a • 1 gram 150 seed beads a • 2 4–6mm jump rings • Clasp d d • Fireline 6-lb. test d • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS

c

a

d

b b b

d

b b b

fig. 2

fig. 1

a a a

b c c c

c c c

b b b c

a a a

d d d

a a c c d d a c d

a

b

thread can be tricky with doubled thread, but if it is too difficult to fthread both tails onto one needle to tie them off, simply work f with one tail at a time. f

1

On a comfortable length of doubled Fireline, pick up six e e peanut beads and a 2mm round e crystal, leaving a 10-in. (25cm) g tail.g Skip the 2mm and the last g bead picked up, and sew peanut through the next peanut bead toward the tail [fig. 1, a–b].

2

Continue in flat peyote by picking up a peanut bead, skipping a peanut bead from step 1, and sewing through the next peanut bead. Repeat this step [b–c].

3

Work an increase turn: Pick up a peanut bead, a 2mm, and a peanut bead. Slide all three beads up to the bead your thread exited at the start of this step. Skip the last peanut bead and 2mm, and sew back through the first peanut bead added in this step [c–d].

a a a

4 5

Work two stitches using peanut beads [fig. 2, a–b].

6 7 8

Work two stitches using peanut beads [c–d].

Work a decrease turn: Pick up a 2mm, and sew back through the last peanut bead added in the previous row [b–c].

Repeat steps 3 and 4 [fig. 3, a–b].

Change direction to form a zigzag: Pick up a 2mm and a peanut bead, and sew back through the last peanut bead added in the previous row [b–c]. Work two stitches using peanut beads [c–d].

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a

a

0 seed or bead 2mm round2mm crystal or 11crystal round 110 seed 0 seed bead 2mm round crystal or 11bead

c

150 seed bead 150 seed15bead 0 seed bead b

b

c

a b

b

b

d

c

d c

f

a

d

9

Work a decrease turn: Pick up a 2mm, and sew back through the last peanut bead added in the previous row [fig. 4, a–b]. Work two stitches using peanut beads [b–c], and then work an increase turn [c–d].

10

Work two stitches using peanut beads [fig. 5, a–b]. Work a decrease turn [b–c], two stitches with peanut beads [c–d], and then work an increase turn [d–e]. Work two stitches with peanut beads [e–f], and then change direction by picking up a 2mm and a peanut bead, and

c

fc

d g

fig. 4

b

a

ed

d c

c

a

a

e g

g

fig. 5

sewing through the last peanut bead added in the previous row. Work two stitches using peanut beads [f–g].

11

Repeat steps 9 and 10 until you reach the desired length, ending and adding thread as needed, but in the last repeat of step 10, only work three rows, stopping short of changing direction.

12

db

f

a

e

b

d c

b

a

d

b

b

b

c c

b

a

b

b

b b

a

b

c

To end the last row, work a decrease turn and two stitches using peanut beads [fig. 6, a–b]. Retrace the last two

fig. 6

rows to exit the last peanut bead picked up in the last row [b–c].

13

Pick up 10 150 seed beads, and sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step [c–d]. Retrace the thread path several times, and end the thread.

14

Open a jump ring, and attach half of the clasp to an end loop of 150s.

15

Repeat steps 12–14 on the other end of the choker.

design option bracelet You can change the number of peanut beads picked up in step 1 to make a thicker or thinner band. To make this bracelet, I picked up eight peanut beads, and in step 10, I worked two more rows before changing direction to create a thicker band with wider points. 34

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Peanuts & Berries

Perennial Path I love to mix stitches to create unexpected pairings in my jewelry designs. For this bracelet, I started with the easy flow of chevron stitch, added right-angle weave accents, and then worked a second thread path to incorporate peyote stitch.

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Purple and green bracelet

SUPPLIES

Purple and green bracelet, 8 in. (20cm) • 112 Berry beads • 10 grams 110 seed beads Purple and blue bracelet, 73⁄4 in. (19.7cm) • 112 Berry beads • 5 grams 110 cylinder beads • 10 grams 110 seed beads For both bracelets • Clasp • 2 4–6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS Purple and green bracelet Berry beads: Miyuki 1531, sparkling purple-lined 110 seed beads: Toho 338B, olivine color-lined emerald Purple and blue bracelet Berry beads: Miyuki 2440, transparent gray rainbow luster Aiko cylinder beads: Toho 505, blue iris higher metallic 110 seed beads: 39, silver-lined Berry bead Berry bead purple

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, pick up four Berry beads, leaving a 12-in. (30cm) tail. Sew back through the first Berry bead again to form a ring [fig. 1, a–b], and then retrace the thread path several times to hold the ring in place.

2

Pick up five 110 seed beads and four Berry beads. Sew through the first Berry bead just picked up again to form a ring [b–c]. Retrace the thread path of the Berry beads again if you have trouble keeping the beads snug, but make sure to exit the first Berry bead picked up in this step.

3

Pick up seven 110s and four Berry beads. Sew through the first Berry bead just picked up again to form a ring [c–d], retracing the thread path if necessary.

4

Pick up five 110s, and sew through the Berry bead opposite the bead your thread exited at the start of step 2 [d–e].

Stitch the same number of scallops at the top and bottom of the bracelet to create a neat closure; this bracelet has 13.

5

Repeat steps 3 and 4, but at the end of step 4, sew through the side Berry bead along the opposite edge [fig. 2]. Continue in this manner until you reach the desired length, keeping in mind that the bracelet will shrink a bit when adding the peyote edging. Don’t end the working thread or tail.

6

Add 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline to the beginning of the bracelet, exiting the first 110 added in step 2 [fig. 3, point a]. Work a peyote stitch by picking up an 110, skipping the next 110, and sewing through the following 110 [a–b]. Work another stitch with an 110 [b–c], and then sew through the next Berry bead and following 110 [c–d]. Work three peyote stitches using 110s, and then sew through the next Berry bead and the following 110 [d–e].

Berry bead

Berry bead seed bead 110bead 110 seed

110 seed bead

110 seed bead

a a

b

e

a e e

b a

b b

b

c

d

d

c c

dc

d

d d

c fig. 1

fig. 2

b

b

c

e

a

a

a

e

e

e d c

fig. 3

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a

e a

b b c

7

Continue following the existing thread path from the chevron base, adding two peyote stitches in the center of the bracelet and three peyote stitches along the edges. Check the fit, and add or remove chevron units as needed.

8

Using one of the tails, exit a center 110 on one end of the bracelet, and continue through the next 110. Pick up five 110s, and sew through the 110 before the 110 your thread exited at the start of this stitch to form a ring [fig. 4]. Retrace the thread path, and end the tail. Repeat on the other end, and then end any remaining threads.

9

d

Open a jump ring, and attach half of the clasp to the seed bead ring on one end of the bracelet. Repeat on the other end.

d

c

Purple and blue bracelet For this version, use more seed beads between the Berry beads to create a more open weave. I used cylinder beads in this bracelet (seven beads down the middle of the bracelet and nine beads along the edges). I also used 110 seed beads along the edges to bring in more color.

fig. 4

design option earrings COLORS 7x4mm Swarovski pendant (Art. #6007, crystal) Berry beads: Miyuki 2440, transparent gray rainbow luster 110 seed beads: Toho PF565, metallic sage

To make a pair of earrings, stitch a ring of Berry beads as in step 1, and then pick up 19 110 seed beads. Sew through the opposite Berry bead in the ring, and pick up seven 110s. Sew through the first Berry bead and the first 110 of the loop of 19. Work two peyote stitches using 110s, five stitches using Berry beads, and two stitches using 110s. Retrace the thread path of the loop of seven 110s, add a crystal drop, and end the thread.

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Peanuts & Berries

Cottage Garden This design reminds me of a fairy-tale cottage trellis with lovely little flowers and vines creeping up the sides. Right-angle weave provides a symmetrical structure, while peanut beads add dimension and soft connections.

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3mmbicone biconecrystal crystal 3mm

SUPPLIES

Pink and green bracelet, 71⁄4 in. (18.4cm) • 44 3mm bicone crystals • 3 grams Berry beads • 5–6 grams 3mm bugle beads • 110 seed beads: 2–3 grams color A 1 gram color B • 4 grams 150 seed beads • 4 4–6mm jump rings • 2-strand clasp Gold and green bracelet, 7 in. (18cm) • 4–5 grams peanut beads • 6–7 grams 3mm bugle beads • 110 seed beads: 2–3 grams color A 1–2 grams color B (or 1 gram 150s) • 6 4–6mm jump rings • 3-strand clasp For both bracelets: • Fireline, 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS Pink and green bracelet 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, olivine Berry beads: Miyuki 4201, Duracoat galvanized silver 3mm bugle beads: Miyuki 2441, cinnamon gold luster 110 seed beads: Toho 359, pale blue-lined light topaz (color A); Toho 313SFS, semi-matte cranberry (color B) 150 seed beads: Toho 457, gold-lustered green tea Gold and green bracelet Peanut beads: 1652, galvanized gold 3mm bugle beads: Miyuki 462, metallic gold iris 110 seed beads: Toho 323, gold-lustered olivine 150s seed beads: Toho 457, gold-lustered green tea

First row

Berrybead bead Berry

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, pick up four Berry beads, leaving a 10-in. (25cm) tail. Sew through the first Berry bead again to form a ring [fig. 1, a–b].

aa

3mmbugle buglebead bead 3mm seedbead, bead,color colorAA 1100seed 11 seedbead, bead,color colorBB 1100seed 11 seedbead bead 1500seed 15

2

Pick up a color-B 110 seed bead, and sew through the opposite Berry bead in the ring, sew back through the B, and sew through the Berry bead your thread exited at the start of this step [b–c].

bb dd

dd aa

cc

cc bb ee

3

Pick up a color-A 110 seed 3mmthe bicone crystal bead, and sew through next Berry bead in the ring. Berry bead Repeat three times [c–d]. Sew through the next five beads thebead 3mmin bugle flower unit [fig. 2, a–b]. 0

fig. 1 a

11 seed bead, color A

4

seed abead, color B Pick up a pattern of11 a 0150, 3mm bugle bead, a 150, andbead 150 seed an A three times [b–c], and then pick up a 150, a 3mm bugle, and a 150. Sew through the A your thread exited at the start dof this c stitch to form a ring [c–d]. a b Retrace the thread path, skipping the As to pull the bugle bead unit into a diamond shape, and then exit an A opposite the A your thread exited at the start of this stitch [d–e].

b d c a e

c

b

fig. 2 d

3mm bicone crystal

5

Pick up a pattern of a Berry bead and an A three times, a and 3mmthen buglepick bead up a Berry bead. Sew0 through the A your thread 11 seed bead, color A exited at the start of this step, and seed bead, B [fig. 3, a–b]. 110next the Berrycolor bead Pick up abead B, and sew through bthe 150 seed opposite Berry bead in the ring, d back through the B just picked up, and through the Berry bead d your thread exited at the start of c this stitch [b–c]. Retrace the a b path through the ring of thread As and Berry beads, skipping the As. Sew through outer ring to exit e the A opposite the connecting A in the bugle unit [c–d]. Berry bead

c a c

b

d fig. 3

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j

i

6

Repeat steps 4 and f 5 until you reach the desired glength, h ending with estep 5. d

7

c

Pick up seven 150s and sew througha the end A. Retrace the thread path, cskipping the corner beads if desired to pull the beads into a diamond shape [fig. 4], and then end the thread. Repeat this step on the bother end of the bracelet.

a

e

c

b fig. 4

d

Second row

j

1

Add 2 yd. (1.8m) of thread to the end of the first row, exiting a side A [fig. 5, point a].

2

i f h

e

a

d

c

b

g

Pick up a pattern of a 150, a 3mm bicone crystal, a 150, and an A three times [a–b], and then pick up a 150, a 3mm, and a 150. Sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step to form a ring [b–c]. Retrace the thread path, skipping the As to pull the crystal unit into a diamond shape, and then exit an A adjacent to the A your thread exited at the start of this stitch [c–d].

Pick up a pattern of a Berry bead and an A two times, and then pick up a Berry bead. Sew through the side A of the next bugle bead unit in the previous row [d–e]. Pick up a Berry bead, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step and the next Berry bead in the ring [e–f]. Pick up a B, and sew through the opposite Berry bead in the ring, back through the B just picked up, and through the Berry bead your thread exited at the start of this stitch [f–g]. Retrace the thread path through the ring of As and Berry beads, skipping the As [g–h]. Sew through the outer ring to exit the A adjacent to the connecting A in the bugle bead unit [h–i]. Pick up a 150, a 3mm, and a 150, and sew through the side A in the next Berry unit [i–j].

4

Continue working in the established pattern, connecting the side As of each unit to the previous row, ending with a crystal unit.

Third row Work the third row as in the first row, connecting the side As to the previous row.

fig. 5

design option earrings

3

Clasp

COLORS 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, olivine Berry beads: Miyuki 4201, Duracoat galvanized silver 110 seed beads: Toho 359, pale blue-lined light topaz (color A); Toho 313SFS, semi-matte cranberry (color B) 150 seed beads: Toho 457, goldlustered green tea

Open a jump ring and attach half of the clasp to a ring of 150s on one end of the bracelet. Repeat to attach the remaining rings.

Gold and green bracelet Work as in the bugle bead and crystal bracelet, but omit the 3mm crystals, use all 3mm bugle beads, and substitute 150s in place of Bs.

For a pair of earrings, make one Berry bead unit and one crystal unit. Make a ring of 150s as in step 7 opposite the crystal unit to attach an earring finding. 40

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Peanuts & Berries

Herringbone Twist Peanut beads and cube beads stitched in herringbone are a lively combination. Insert columns with a twist, and you’ll create a band full of texture and color!

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1

Bracelet, 71⁄2 in. (19.1cm) • 6–7 grams peanut beads • 2–3 grams 1.8mm cube beads • 2–3 grams 150 seed beads • Clasp • 4 4–6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

Pick up two peanut beads, and sew through the next two cubes in the previous row [fig. 2, a–b]. Pick up two peanut beads, and sew through the next cube in the previous row. To turn at the end of the row, pick up a 150 seed bead, and sew back through the last peanut bead picked up [b–c].

Peanut beads: F457B, matte metallic brown 1.8mm cube beads: Toho 183, hybrid opaque ultra luster gray 150 seed beads: Toho 307, hybrid turquoise Picasso

peanut bead peanut 1.8mm cubebead bead peanut bead 150 seed bead 1.8mm cube bead peanut bead 1.8mm 150 seed beadcube bead c 1.8mm cube e bead 150 seed bead c 150 seed bead e b a c e b d a e c d fig. 1 g b a b d ag

c

e

g

e

g

c

e d

bc

f

ad b c c

b

b

f ae d d a

c

5

Pick up 12 cube beads, skip the last two cubes, and sew b back through the next 10 cubes. d e Sew through the next cube in the b d e [fig. 3, a–b]. Pick up previous row a 150,b and sewdupe through the b cube in next d the e previous row [b–c]. Pick up 12 cube beads, skip the last two cubes just picked up, and sew back through the next 10 cubes. Sew through the next cube in the previous row, the peanut a b bead below, and the cube below a the peanut bead [c–d]. Sew back through the edge 150, the peanut a bead, and the edge cube [d–e]. a c

c

a

a

b c

Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice, but in step 2, pick up a 150 between the two stitches as in step 3 [f–g].

a

a b

a

a

e b

e

c b

b c

e d

c

e c d

c

d

c

d

b d

f

d

bc

4

a

a

e

f

Pick up two cube beads, and sew through the next peanut bead in the previous row. Pick up a 150, and sew up through the next peanut bead in the previous row [c–d]. Pick up two cube beads, and sew through the next peanut bead in the previous row and the edge cube bead in the first row [d–e]. Pick up a 150, and sew back through the edge peanut bead and the last cube bead picked up [e–f].

2

COLORS

d

3

On 3 yd. (3.7m) of Fireline, pick up two cube beads, leaving a 10-in. (25cm) tail. Sew back through the cubes again, stacking them next to each other with the holes parallel [fig. 1, a–b]. Pick up a cube, and sew back through the previous cube and the new cube [b–c]. Repeat [c–d] for a ladder base of four cubes, then zigzag back through the base row [d–e].

SUPPLIES

d d

a e e e

fig. 2

fig. 3

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6

Pick up 22 150s, wrap them around the first column twice, and sew through the first end cube at the top of the column [fig. 4, a–b]. Sew back through the adjacent cube and the next 10 cubes in the column, the following cube in the previous row, the 150, and the next cube in the row [b–c]. Pick up 22 150s, and embellish the column, wrapping around the column twice and sewing through the first end cube [c–d]. Sew back through the column, and turn at the end of the row by sewing through several existing beads. Sew through the column to exit the end cube at the top of the column [d–e]. If necessary, twist the columns as you add the next row of peanut beads to keep the spiral of the 150s uniform.

b

d e

b

peanut bead e

g

c

Repeat steps 7 and 8 three times, then work step 7. Zigzag through the last row of cubes to mimic the first row of cubes.

10

Exiting an edge cube on one end, pick up seven 150s, and sew through the next two cubes in the previous row [fig. 5, a–b]. Pick up seven 150s, and sew through the last cube in the row, the peanut bead below [b–c], and the cube below the peanut bead [c–d]. Sew back through the edge 150, the peanut bead, and the edge cube [d–e]. Retrace the thread path of the 150s, and end the thread. Repeat this step on the other end of the bracelet. Open two jump rings, and attach one half of the clasp to both seed bead rings. Repeat on the other end.

b

e c

e

b

d

Work steps 5 and 6.

a

1.8mm cube bead b a 150 seed bead

d

8 9

d e

150 seed bead c

Work steps 2 and 3 three times, picking up a 150 between the two stitches as before.

11

peanut bead 1.8mm cube bead

7

c

e

c

a

a

a

d

b

b

a

e

c f c

g

d

e

a

c

a

d

b

d b

c

a e c

f

d b

d

fig. 4 a

fig. 5

43

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design options wide bracelet and earrings COLORS Wide bracelet Peanut beads: P202, metallic olive matte 1.8mm cube beads: 2035, matte metallic rose gold 150 seed beads: Toho 703, matte cabernet Earrings Peanut beads: F457B, matte metallic brown 1.8mm cube beads: Toho 183, hybrid opaque ultra luster gray 150 seed beads: Toho 307, hybrid turquoise Picasso

To make a wider bracelet, begin with a ladder base of 10 cube beads. Work as in steps 2 and 3 across the row, adding five stitches per row instead of two. To make the columns, alternate a column of 12 peanut beads with columns of cubes as in steps 5 and 6. Stitch a multistrand clasp to the end rows. To make a pair of earrings, begin with a ladder base of two cubes. Work as in steps 2 and 3, adding only one stitch per row. When making the columns of cubes, wrap two strands of 150s around the columns for added interest. Work as in steps 2 and 3, and at the end of the last row of cubes, pick up three 150s, and sew through the other end cube. End the thread. Use the tail to make a loop of seven 150s to attach the earring finding.

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Daggers & Drops

Darling Drops Use right-angle weave and netting to combine long drops and seed beads into beaded beads, and incorporate these cute components in earrings, bracelets, or necklaces. Since they use only a few beads each, they’re a great way to use up beads in your stash.

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c a d b

e

c a d b

e

fig. 1

SUPPLIES

Beaded bead, ¾ x ½ in. (1.9x1.3cm) • 12 long drops • 1 gram 110 seed beads • 1 gram 150 seed beads • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 a

COLORS

a

e

b f c

e

h g d

b

Gold/green beaded bead h (p. 45, upper left) f Long drops: Miyuki, gold iris g c 110 seed beads: Miyuki 359, pale blue-lined light topaz d 150 seed beads: 15-9462, gold iris Blue/purple beaded bead (upper right) Long drops: Miyuki, metallic blue iris 110 seed beads: Toho 479, purple permanent galvanized 150 seed beads: Toho 505, higher metallic dragonfly Gray/purple beaded bead (lower left) long drop Long drops: Miyuki, matte metallic dark gray 110 seed bead 110 seed beads: Toho 89, 150 seed bead metallic moss 150 seed beads: Toho, silverlined violet Purple beaded bead (lower right) Long drops: Miyuki 460, metallic dark raspberry 110 seed beads: Toho 89, metallic moss 150 seed beads: Toho, silverlined violet

fig. 2

1

On 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, pick up two 110 seed beads, a long drop (with the bead’s point facing away from the tip of the needle), longpoint drop a long drop (with the bead’s facing the tip of the needle), two 0 seed bead 110s, a long drop (with11the bead’s point facing away from tipbead of 0 seed 15the the needle), and a long drop (with the bead’s point facing the tip of the needle), leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Sew through the first two 110s and the next two long drops picked up in this step [fig. 1, a–b].

2

Pick up two 110s, a long drop (with the bead’s point facing away from the tip of the needle), a long drop (with the bead’s point facing the tip of the needle), and two 110s. Sew through the two long drops your thread exited at the start of this stitch, and continue through the first four beads picked up in this stitch

[b–c]. Repeat this step three more times [c–d].

3

Pick up two 110s, and sew through the two end long drops from the first stitch. Pick up two 110s, and sew through the two end long drops from the last stitch [d–e]. Retrace the thread path to secure the join, and then sew through the next two 110s.

4

Pick up an 110, and sew through the next pair of 110s on the same side. Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the first 110 picked up in this step [fig. 2, a–b].

5

Pick up five 150 seed beads, skip the next two 110s, sew through the following 110, and sew back through the last 150 picked up in this step [b–c].

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long drop 110 seed bead 150 seed bead fig. 3

6

Pick up four 150s, skip the next two 110s, sew through the following 110, and sew back through the last 150 picked up in this step [c–d]. Repeat this step three more times [d–e].

7

Pick up three 150s, sew down through the first 150 picked up in step 5, sew through the adjacent 110, sew back through the 150 above the 110 you just sewed through, and continue through the next two 150s, exiting the center 150 in the first stitch added in step 5 [e–f].

8

Pick up a 150, skip the next three 150s in the previous round, and sew through the following 150 [f–g]. Repeat this step to complete the round [g–h], and then sew through the 150s added in this round to form a tight circle. Sew through the beadwork to exit the first 110 in a pair of 110s picked up in steps 2 and 3.

9

Pick up two 150s, an 110, and two 150s. Sew under the thread between the corresponding 110s on the opposite side of the beaded bead, and sew back through all the

beads picked up in this step [fig. 3]. Sew through the next three beads to exit the first 110 in the next pair of 110s on this side of the beaded bead. Repeat this step five more times, and then sew through the beadwork to exit a pair of 110s on the other side of the beaded bead.

10

Repeat steps 4–8 on this side of the beaded bead, and end the working thread and tail.

design option more beads Use other drops, daggers, and lentil-shaped beads to make other sizes and shapes of beaded beads.

COLORS Large dagger beaded bead 5x16mm dagger beads: Czech DAG-72, brushed bronze and copper peacock 110 seed beads: Toho 581, gilt-lined rust opal 150 seed beads: Toho 464A, deep silver Silver/copper beaded bead Lentil beads: Czech, silver with copper polka dots 110 seed beads: Toho 581, gilt-lined rust opal 150 seed beads: Toho 711, nickel 47

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Daggers & Drops

Ring-a-ling An easy way to display your favorite drops or daggers is to stitch a peyote band and make loops that hold your beads front and center. Spaced with seed beads, these loops nestle together nicely.

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SUPPLIES

Ring • 24 6mm lentil drop beads • 1 gram 1.5mm cube beads • 2 grams 110 cylinder beads • 1 gram 150 seed beads • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12

COLORS 6mm lentil drop beads: Czech, assorted matte colors 1.5mm cube beads: Toho 90, amethyst gunmetal 110 cylinder beads: Miyuki 1010, metallic earth batik luster 150 seed beads: Toho 39, silverlined tanzanite

5

Work as in steps 2 and 3, but use 1.5mm cube beads until you have six cubes along each edge, and end after completing step 2 [b–c].

6

Repeat steps 2 and 3 using cylinders until the band fits around your finger, ending after completing step 2 [c–d].

7

Zip up the end rows [fig. 5]. Retrace the thread path, and end the threads.

6mm lentil drop bead 1.5mm cube bead 110 cylinder bead

Ring band

150 seed bead

1

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, pick up six 110 cylinder beads, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Skip 6mm lentil droplentil bead 6mm drop bead 6mm drop bead the lastlentil two cylinders, and sew back through the following cube bead 1.5mm cube bead 1.5mm 1.5mm cube bead cylinder, working toward the 0 cylinder 0 bead 11 tail [fig. 1, a–b] . Work one peyote cylinder bead 11 0 11 cylinder bead stitch using a cylinder, and then 0 seed15 bead 0 seed bead 15bead 150 seed work a modified odd-count turn: Pickbead up a cylinder, and sew back a 6mm lentil drop through the first cylinder added in c a a away from the working 1.5mm cubethis beadstep, a tail [b–c]. b b 110 cylinder bead

2 3

b

b

b

Pick up a pattern of a 150 seed bead and a lentil drop three times, and then pick up a 150. Sew through the other cube bead in the same row, in the same direction [a–b]. Sew through the next two cubes in the ring band, exiting the cube bead your thread a of this step. exited at the start Retrace the thread cpath through the loop and the cubes in the band, but exit the cube bead b adjacent to the one your thread exited at the start of this step [b–c].

b

a

6mm lentil drop bead fig. 1

c

fig. 2

b

b a

110 cylinder bead 150 seed bead

c

a c

c

d

fig. c 3

a cube bead 1.5mm

c

cylinders [fig. 2].

Work two stitches using cylinders. Work an odd-count b up a cylinder, sew turn: Pick under the thread bridge a between a a the last two edge cylinders, and c c sew back through thec last cylinder picked up [fig. 3]. c

2

b

150 seed bead Work two stitches using

a

Add 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, exiting a cube in the first row of cube beads added. Make sure your thread is exiting the cube bead pointing toward the adjacent edge row [fig. 6, point a].

c

110 cylinder bead b b 150 seed bead

b

b

1

a

6mm lentil drop bead a a a a 1.5mmc cube bead c c b

Loop

b d

d

d

c

d 4 fig.

b a c c

b

d

d

fig. 5

4

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have eight cylinders a along each edge of the band. End after completing step 3 c [fig. 4, a–b].

a c b

b fig. 6 49

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a

lentil drop bead

c

m cube bead b

linder bead

eed bead

3 b

a c b

Pick up a repeating pattern of a lentil drop and a 150 three times, and then pick up a lentil drop. Sew through the other cube bead in the same row, in the same direction. Sew through the next two cubes in the ring band, d exiting c the cube bead your thread exited at the start of this step. Retrace the thread path through the loop and the cubes in the band, but exit the cube bead adjacent to the one your thread exited at the start of this step.

Edge embellishment

1

Pick up two 150s, lay them along the edge of the band, and sew through two corresponding beads along the edge. Sew through the two 150s again. Repeat this step [fig. 7] along the edge of the band, snugging the 150s together as you go.

4

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you have seven loops. Exit an edge bead.

2

Sew through all the 150s on this edge. Don’t pull too tight, or you might snug the beads too much, making the band too small to fit your finger.

3

Sew through the beadwork to exit the other edge of the band, and repeat steps 1 and 2. End the thread.

fig. 7

design option rings COLORS Green ring 4x6mm fringe drops: Czech, opaque turquoise Picasso 100 cylinder beads in place of 1.5mm cube beads: Miyuki 0380, matte metallic khaki iris 110 cylinder beads: Miyuki 371, matte metallic olive gold

You can easily use any type of drop for this design. I omitted the edge embellishment for a more casual version using 4x6mm fringe drops and 3mm drops. Of course, you can go the other way and glam this ring to the max by using crystal drops. Another option is to make a band of all 1.5mm cube beads or 100 cylinder beads long enough to make a bracelet, and make sections of seven loops, skipping three rows between sections.

Purple ring 3mm fringe drops: Magatamas, purple mix 1.5mm cube beads: Toho 90, amethyst gunmetal 110 cylinder beads: Toho 502, higher metallic plum iris

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Daggers & Drops

Drop Dead Daggers Incorporate a dose of danger into individual odd-count peyote stitch components, injecting fierce style into an otherwise subdued stitch. Layer these components on a contrasting peyote stitch base for a substantial bracelet, but soften the edges with delicate lacy netting.

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d b

a

a b

c

d

e

f

g

c

SUPPLIES

3x10mm dagger bead

Bracelet 6½ in. (16.5cm) • 108 3x10mm dagger beads • 100 cylinder beads: 7 grams color A 6 grams color B • 2–3 grams 110 seed beads • 2-strand tube clasp • 4 6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

100 cylinder bead, color A 100 cylinder bead, color B 110 seed bead

a

d f

c

e

a

a

h

c f

c

e

COLORS Dagger beads: Czech, gold smoke topaz luster 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0380, matte metallic khaki iris (color A); Miyuki 0005, medium blue iris (color B) 110 seed beads: Miyuki 452, metallic dark blue iris

Base

1

a

b

b

b

d g

e

d f

fig. 1 d d

a

4

f On a comfortable length ofc Repeat steps 2 and 3 until Fireline, pick up 10 color-A you reach the desired length, 100 cylinder beads, leaving a 6-in. ending and adding thread as a (15cm) tail. Skip the last two As, needed. Make sure both ends c b of four As; then end and sew back through the next have a row A toward the tail [fig. 1, a–b]. the working thread and tail. Work three peyote stitches using b As [b–c]. Work a modified oddSmall component count turn: Pick up an A, and sew On 18 in. (46cm) of Fireline, back through the first A picked e pick up three color-B 100 up in this step, working away cylinder beads, three 3x10mm from the tail [c–d]. dagger beads, and four Bs, leaving d an 8-in. (20cm) tail. Skip the last two Bs, and sew back through the Work four peyote stitches next B [fig. 2, a–b]. Work one using As [d–e]. peyote stitch with a B, sewing through the next dagger bead, Work four peyote stitches one stitch with a dagger bead using As. Work an odd-count a (positioning the four daggers to turn: Pick up an A, sew under c the b point the same direction), and one thread bridge between the last stitch with a B. Work a modified two edge As, and then sew odd-count turn with a B [b–c]. back through the A just picked up [e–f]. Work four peyote stitches using Bs along this side of the component. Sew through the adjacent edge B [c–d], and then work four peyote stitches using Bs along this side of the component [d–e].

2

a

h

c f

b

b g

e a

c

b

g

100 c

d f

100 c

fig. 2

a

110 s

b

c

d

e

3

Work a decrease row: Sew through the adjacent edge B and the next B in the previous row [e–f]. Work three peyote stitches using Bs, and then sew through the next B [f–g]. Repeat 3x10mm dagger bead this step on the other side of the 100 cylinder bead, color A component [g–h].

4

100 cylinder bead, color B

Don’t end the working 110 seed bead thread or tail; these will be used to attach the small components to the base. Make a total of six small components.

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c

3x10

d

1

2 3

e

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f

d

a

d

f

f

c

e d

e

Large component c On 24 in. (61cm) of Fireline, f

1

pick up four Bs, one dagger, and five Bs, leaving a 10-in. (25cm) tail. Skip the last two Bs, and sew back through the next B [fig. 3, a–b]. Work three stitches using Bs, and then work a modified odd-count turn with a B [b–c].

b e

a

g

2

h

c

c

b

b b

d

b

d

c e

b

b

Work four stitches using Bs. Work a decrease turn: Sew under the thread bridge between the two adjacent edge Bs, and then sew back through the next two Bs on this side, exiting the last B added [fig. 4, a–b].

7

Work three stitches using Bs. Work a modified decrease turn: Sew under the thread between the next two Bs in the previous two rows, and then back through the next two Bs on this side, exiting the last B added [b–c].

8

Work two stitches using Bs, and then work a modified decrease turn [c–d].

9 10

Work one stitch with a B [d–e].

Using the tail, sew through the adjacent B, working toward the other side of the

c e

e

a

h

c f

c

d b

b

b

d fig. 4

b

d

cb

a

c

e

d

g

fe

g f

g a

a b

b

c

3x10mm dagger bead 3x10mm dagger bead color A 100 cylinder bead, 100 cylinder bead, fig. 5color A 0 color B 10 cylinder bead, 100 cylinder bead, color B 110 seed bead 0 seedon bead A in the base. Stitch the large 116–9 component. Repeat steps

this side of the component.

6

a

a

d

Work four stitches using daggers [e–f].

Stitch the next five rows as a mirror image of the first half of the large component, working odd-count turns along the edge with the tail [f–g].

a

g

d f d f fig. 3 e

g

Work one stitch with a B, two stitches using daggers, and one stitch with a B [c–d].

4 5

g c fe

e c

d

3

a

a d

a

h

c f

Work one stitch with a B and three stitches using daggers, a and then work an odd-count turn with a B [d–e]. b

a

e

a

11

Don’t end the working thread or tail. Make a total of five large components.

Assembly

1

Position a small component on one end of the base. Align the two Bs on the edge with the tails between the first three edge As of the base. Stitch the small component in place by sewing through an edge A in the base, and then sew back through the B. Working along this side of the small component, stitch the Bs to corresponding As in the base, and then end the thread. Repeat with the remaining thread on the other side of the small component.

2

Position a large component next to the small component so the B in the last row of the large component and the center B in the last row of the small component will share the same

3

1

1

1

component to the base in the same manner as the small component.

3

Alternating small and large components, stitch the remaining components to the base.

Embellishment

1

Add 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline to a small component on one end of the bracelet, exiting an outer B in the last row [fig. 5, point a].

2

Pick up seven 110 seed beads, and sew through the B your thread just exited [a–b]. Retrace the thread path through the 110s, skipping every other 110 to pull the beads into a diamond shape, exiting the B [b–c].

3

Sew through the next four Bs, and then repeat step 2. Sew through the next two Bs [c–d].

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d b

b

b

d g

d f

a

b

c

d

e

f

g

6 7

11

Repeat steps 5–8 along this edge.

Sew through the beadwork 3x10mm dagger bead Pick up four 110s and sew to exit the first edge A in the through the next two edge 100 cylinder bead, color A base on this end of the bracelet As and back through the last coloradded B 100 cylinder bead,110 [fig. 6, point a]. Pick up five [c–d]. Repeat this 0 seed bead step once [d–e]. 110s, skip an A along the11 edge, and sew through the next two edge As and back through the Pick up six 110s, skip an A along last 110 added [a–b]. the edge, and sew through the next two edge As and back through the last 110 added [e–f]. Pick up six 110s, skip an A along the edge, and sew through the next two edge As and back through the last 110 added [b–c].

5

COLORS Green ring 4x15mm daggers: Czech, olivine luster 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 0003, dark green metallic iris 110 seed beads: Toho 457, gold lustered green tea Black ring 3x10mm daggers: Czech, jet and black diamond 100 cylinder beads: Miyuki 254, bronze luster 110 seed beads: Miyuki 4221, Duracoat galvanized light smoky pewter

Pick up four 110s and sew through the next two edge As and back through the last 110 added [f–g].

9 10

fig. 6

4

8

Sew through the beadwork to exit the first B in the end row, and then repeat steps 2 and 3 on this end of the bracelet.

Repeat steps 4–9 along the remaining edge of the bracelet, and end the thread.

12

Open four 6mm jump rings, and attach the loops of the clasp to the rings of 110s on the ends of the bracelet.

design option rings Use the large component as a focal point for a funky ring. At the center of 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, work a large component, and use the remaining tails to work an odd-count ring band five beads wide. Work the desired number of rows off of each side of the large component, and then zip up the end rows. Make an edge embellishment: Exiting an edge bead, pick up three 110s, and sew through the next two edge beads. Repeat this stitch along both edges. Sew through the beadwork to exit the first edge bead of the large component. Pick up three 110s, sew through the next two edge beads, and sew back through the last 110 added. Pick up four 110s, sew through the next two edge beads, and sew back through the last 110 added. Pick up two 110s, sew through the next two edge beads, and sew back through the last 110 added. Repeat this embellishment along the other edge of the large component.

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Daggers & Drops

Petal Pendant Daggers and drops are perfect for petals. The wide range of shapes and colors will have you making a garden full of flowers. Add a loop to hang them as pretty pendants, or string a few strands on the back to make a bold ring.

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1

4

Center a needle on 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline. Working with doubled thread, pick up 14 150 seed beads, and tie the beads into a ring with a square knot, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Sew through the first 150 again [fig. 1, a–b].

SUPPLIES

Pendant, 11⁄2 in. (3.8cm) • 14 7x12mm curved drops • 7 3x10mm dagger beads • 7 3mm fringe drops • 7 3mm bicone crystals • 1 gram 110 seed beads • 1 gram 150 seed beads • 8mm jump ring • Chain or necklace cord • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pair of chainnose pliers a

2

Pick up two 150s, an 110 seed bead, and two 150s. Skip the next 150 in the ring, and sew through the following 150 [b–c]. Repeat to complete the round, and step up through the first three beads added in this round [c–d].

COLORS 7x12mm curved drops: black 3x10mm dagger beads: c Czech, brown iris 3mm fringe drops: b Magatamas, e purple iris 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, metallic light gold d 110 seed beads: Toho 278, goldlined topaz 150 seed beads Toho 459, goldlustered dark topaz

3

Pick up a 3mm bicone crystal, and sew through the 110 in the next stitch of the previous round [d–e]. Repeat this step to complete the round [e–f].

Flip your beadwork so the crystals are on the bottom of the ring. Pick up a 150, a 3mm drop bead, and a 150, and sew through the next 110 between the two 3mm crystals in the previous round [fig. 2, a–b], positioning the 3mm drop bead on top of the next 3mm crystal in the previous round. Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the first 150 and 3mm drop bead added in this round [b–c].

5

Pick up a 150, a 3x10mm dagger, and a 150, and sew through the next 3mm drop bead in the previous round [c–d]. Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the 150, dagger, and 150 of the first stitch added in this round [d–e].

f

c

a

d knot

a

b

c

b

e

e d

7x12mm curved drop

b

a

fig. 1

f

3x10mm dagger bead

c

a

d 3mm fringe drop c

3mm bicone crystal

knot

a

b

c

b

e

e d

110 seed bead 150 seed bead

c a e fig. 2

b

g f

56

d BKS-64957-01_6-87.indd 56

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6

8

Pick up a 150, a 7x12mm large curved drop, and a 150, and sew through the next 150, dagger, and 150 in the previous round [fig. 3, a–b]. Repeat this step to complete the fround, and step up through the first 150, d 7x12mm drop, and 150 added in b e c this round knot[b–c] a.

Pick up two 150s, an 110, and two 150s, and sew through the next 110 in the previous round [fig. 4, a–b]. Repeat to complete the round, and step up through the first three beads a added in this round [b–c].

9

Pick up a 150, a 7x12mm drop, and a 150, and sew through the 110 in the next stitch of the previous round [c–d]. Repeat this step to complete the round, exiting an 110 [d–e].

7

Pick up an 110, and sew through the next 150, 7x12mm drop, and 150 added in the previous round [c–d]. Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the first 110 added in this round [d–e].

10

knot

a

Pick up nine 150s, and sew through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step f a–b]. Sew through the [fig 5, nextd150, 7x12mm drop, and 150 in the previous round, and the b e following . c 110 [b–c]

11

Pick up two 150s, an 110, and two 150s. Skip the next 150, 7x12mm drop, and 150, and sew through the following 110 [c–d]. Repeat this step to complete the c round, and then step up through the first three beads added in this e round [d–e] . b

12

Pick d up an 110, and sew through the center 110 in the next stitch of the previous round [e–f]. Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the first 110 added in this round [f–g]. End the working thread and tail. c

13

Open ana 8mm jump ring, and attach it to the ring of 150s and a chain bor e necklace cord. d

a c a c b

b

e

a

g

e b

f

e d

d

c

d fig. 5 fig. 3

c a b

e g

b

f

7x12mm curved drop

e d

b

a

d

3x10mm dagger bead

g f

e d

3mm fringe drop c

3mm bicone crystal 110 seed bead

fig. 4 57

150 seed bead BKS-64957-01_6-87.indd 57

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c

a

design option pendant and ring COLORS Green pendant 5x16mm dagger beads in place of the first round of 7x12mm curved drops: Czech, transparent blue luster 5x16mm dagger beads in place of the second round of 7x12mm curved drops: Czech, transparent green luster 3x10mm dagger beads: Czech, green iris 3mm drops: Magatama, amethystlined topaz 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, olivine 110 seed beads: Toho 512F, nickel-plated sage 150 seed beads: Miyuki 576, dyed smoky opaque silver-lined alabaster

Make a pendant using 5x16mm daggers in place of 7x12mm curved drops for an airy, spiky pendant. Or stitch a stunning floral motif ring by omitting the ring of 150s in step 10. Instead, complete the netted center as in steps 11 and 12, and exit an 110 in the inner ring of beads. Pick up enough 110 seed beads to wrap around your finger, and sew through an opposite 110 in the ring. Sew back through all the 110s just picked up, the 110 your thread exited on the first side of the ring, and the next 110 in the ring. Pick up enough 150s to equal the size of the band of 110s. Sew through an opposite 110 in the inner ring and back through all of the 150s just added. Sew through the 110s in the inner ring to exit an 110 adjacent to the other side of the band of 110s. Repeat for a second band of 110s.

Ring 7x12mm curved drops: black 5x16mm dagger beads in place of the first round of 7x12mm drops: Czech, matte opaque white with matte silver dots 3x10mm dagger beads: jet 3mm drops: Magatama, silver-lined crystal 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, white opal 110 seed beads: Toho 17282, silver-lined jet 150 seed beads: Miyuki 576, dyed smoky opaque silver-lined alabaster

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Daggers & Drops

Dagger & Pearl Pairing Layer on the sparkle with rounds of crystals that support spikes of daggers. Link the dagger and crystal components with contrasting clusters of pearls in this gorgeous right-angle weave design.

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6x12mm half-dagger d

4mm crystal pearl 3mm bicone crystal

c a

80 seed bead 150 seed bead

e

c a

c ab

d

b b

e

de

d

f

e

c af

f

b

fig. 1 d

SUPPLIES

Bracelet, 7 in. (18cm) • 24 6x12mm half-daggers • 34 4mm crystal pearls • 72 3mm bicone crystals • 3 grams 80 seed beads • 4 grams 150 seed beads • Clasp • 2 6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

e

b g

c

f d

COLORS 6x12mm half-daggers: Czech, moss 4mm crystal pearls: Swarovski, copper 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, olivine 80 seed beads: Toho 457, goldlustered green tea 150 seed beads: Miyuki 1882, dark topaz gold luster

Half-daggers have a flat edge and a rounded edge. I refer to the rounded edge as the top and the flat edge as the bottom. If you are using other types of daggers, it doesn’t matter which way you pick them up.

Dagger component

1

On 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, pick up three 150 seed beads, a 6x12mm half-dagger from bottom to top, a 150, a 3mm bicone crystal, a 150, and a dagger from top to bottom, leaving a 12-in. (30cm) tail. Sew through all the beads again to form a ring, exiting the bottom of the last dagger added in this step [fig. 1, a–b].

b b

b

a

d d

b

a

a

fig. g 2 g ge

fig. 3

a

4

a

Connect the first three stitches into a ring with a fourth stitch: Pick up three 150s, and sew through the unattached dagger from the first stitch from bottom to top [fig. 2, a–b]. Pick up a 150, a 3mm, and a 150, and sew through the dagger your thread exited at the start of this step from top to bottom [b–c]. Sew through the three 150s you just added and the following dagger from bottom to top. Zigzag through the stitches so there are equal thread paths through all of the beads.

e

b e

c a

b b f

b

a a

g g

a

e

e c

g

c

f f

f

c

d d

3

Pick up a 150, a 3mm, a 150, a dagger from top to bottom, and three 150s, and sew through the dagger your thread exited at the start of this step from bottom to top [d–e]. Sew through the first c 150, 3mm, 150, and thea following c c dagger from top to bottom [e–f].

g

d

Pick up three a dagger e e 150s, from bottom c to btop, a 150, a 3mm, and a a150, b f bsew through c cand the daggerayour a thread f f exited at the start of this step from top to bottom [b–c]. Sew through the first three 150s and the following dagger from top to bottom [c–d].

e

bce ac c c a a

b c

c a

d

e

b

c

2

d

d

d

fig. 4

5

Using the tail, which should be exiting three 150s between two daggers, and working on the bottom of the component, pick up ab 150, and sew through the c a . b bthree 150s [fig. 3, a–b] next Repeat three times, and then step up through the first 150 picked up in this step [b–c]. Pick up five 150s, skip three 150s, and sew through the next 150 added in the previous round [c–d]. Repeat three times, and then step up through the first three 150s added in this round [d–e]. End the tail.

b

6

Using the working thread and exiting a 150, 3mm, and 150, pick up a 150, and sew through the next 150, 3mm, and 150 [fig. 4, a–b]. Repeat three times, and then sew through the first 150 added in this step [b–c].

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e

7

g

8

3

Make a total of six dagger components.

End pearl cluster

1

On the component’s bottom, with thread exiting a center 150 between two daggers, pick up a 150, a 4mm, five 150s, a 4mm, three 150s, a 4mm, five 150s, a 4mm, and a 150. Sew through the 150 your thread exited at the start of this step, and then sew through the first 150 and 4mm in the ring [fig. 5, a–b].

2

Pick up a 150, an 80 seed bead, and a 150, and sew

g

d

e

through the next 4mm and 150 [b–c]. Skip the b next 150 in c the ring,aand sew f through the following 150 and 4mm [c–d]. Repeat this step, and then sew through the first 150, 80, and 150 again [d–e].

9

a

a

Pick up a 150, a 4mm pearl, and a 150. Sew through the opposite 150 added in the previous step. Sew back through the 150, 4mm, and 150 picked up in this step, and the 150 your thread exited at the start of this step [c–d]. Pick up a 150, a 3mm, and a 150, and sew through the center 150 in the next stitch of five 150s added in step 5 [d–e]. Pick up a 150, a 3mm, and a 150, and sew through the next 150 added in the previous round [e–f]. Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the first 150, 3mm, and 150 added in this round [f–g]. Don’t end the working thread.

c

a

c

a

d

b

c

c

Pick up a 150, an 80, and a 150, and sew through the 150, 80, and 150 on the other side of the ring [e–f]. Repeat this step [f–g]. Sew through the beadwork to exit the outer ring, and retrace the thread path, skipping the c center 150s to help define the a shape. End the working thread.

g

b

c a

e

b

e

c

a

f

b a

f

f d

fig. 5

c

b

a

b

4

Make a second end pearl cluster on another dagger component.

Pearl connector

1

Arrange a dagger component with an end pearl cluster so the dagger component thread is pointing toward the end, opposite the pearl cluster.

2

Pick up a 150, a 4mm , five 150s, a 4mm, and a 150, and sew through the corresponding 150 of the end component [fig. 6, a–b]. Pick up a 150, a 4mm, five 150s, a 4mm, and a 150, and sew through the 150 your thread exited at the start of this step. Sew through the first 150 and 4mm in the ring [b–c].

design option ring

fig. 6

3 4 5

Repeat steps 2 and 3 of “End pearl cluster.” Connect the remaining dagger components.

Open a jump ring, and attach half of the clasp and an end pearl cluster on one end of the bracelet. Repeat on the other end.

COLORS

Pair a few of these units to make matching earrings, or nestle a dagger component between two pearl clusters for a fantastic focal point of a ring.

3x10mm daggers: Czech, matte bronze 4mm crystal pearls: Swarovski, Tahitian-look 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, crystal golden shadow 80 seed beads: Toho 457, gold-lustered green tea 80 seed beads: Toho 998, gold-lined light jonquil AB 150 seed beads: Miyuki 456, gunmetal iris

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Daggers & Drops

Tiny Blossoms Plant a scattering of flower blooms along an organic pathway of Herringbone stitch. Work a second layer of seed beads to fill in the holes while adding a splash of color and sparkle. The long drops create little flowers that look like springtime violets.

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SUPPLIES

Bracelet, 7½ in. (19cm) • 7–8 grams 3mm cube beads • 80 4x7mm long magatamas • 3 grams 110 cylinder beads • 20 80 seed beads • 4 6mm jump rings • 2-strand tube clasp • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS 3mm cube beads: Miyuki F463T, matte metallic green gold Long magatamas: Miyuki 1527, sparkle celery-lined crystal 110 cylinder beads: Miyuki 1010, metallic earth batik luster 80 seed beads: Miyuki 2006, matte metallic dark bronze

4x7mm long magatama 4x7mm long magatama 3mm cube bead

110 cylinder bead

e

Work a row of herringbone stitch: Pick up two cubes, and sew down through the next cube in the previous row and up through the following cube. Repeat to complete the row, exiting the last cube in the previous row. Pick up two 110 cylinder beads, and sew back through the last cube added [fig. 2, a–b].

a

d

d

c

bead

c a

g

d

a

c

Work a row in regular herringbone stitch using two cubes per stitch, but for the last g stitch in the row, sew down through three beads along theg edge, pick up two 110 cylinders, and sew back through thee last b three edge beads [f–g].

g

b

e d e

b a

a

b

c b

a c

b fig. c 2

f

d

ba

f

d

fig. 3

a b a b

c

ba

c

ba

8

a

c

c

Work a row of accelerated herringbone: Pick up four cubes for the first stitch, four long drops for the second stitch, and four cubes for the third stitch. Pick up two cylinders, and sew back through the last two edge beads [e–f].

f

b

d

7

b

b fig. 1

Work a row in regular herringbone stitch using two cubes per stitch, but for the last stitch in the row, sew down through three beads along the edge. Pick up two cylinders, and sew back through the last three edge beads [d–e].

3

c

e

a

2

6

Work a row of accelerated herringbone, picking up four beads instead of two: Pick up four long drops for the first stitch [fig. 3, a–b], four cubes for the second stitch [b–c], and four long drops for the third stitch. (Figures show back of the bracelet.) Pick up two cylinders; sew back through the last two edge beads [c–d].

Work an increase row of brick stitch for a row of five cubes [c–d]. Repeat for a row of six cubes [d–e].

Work a row of herringbone stitch using cubes, but after picking up the two cubes for the last stitch in the row, sew down through the next two cubes in the previous two rows. Pick up two cylinders; sew c back through the two cubes along the edge [b–c].

cylinder 11 800seed beadbead

ead

5

On 3 yd. (2.7m) of Fireline, pick up two 3mm cubes, leaving a 12-in. (30cm) tail. Sew back through the beads again, positioning them next to each other with holes parallel. Work in ladder stitch for a row of four cubes [fig. 1, a–b]. Zigzag back through the row so the working thread and tail are exiting opposite ends of the first bead [b–c].

4

0 seedcube 83mm beadbead

magatama

1

63

c

f

d

c

f d

e

9

Work a row of accelerated herringbone, picking up four a beads instead of two: Pick up four long drops for the first stitch, afour cubes for the second stitch, and f long drops for the third four stitch. Sew down through the two beads along the edge, pick up two cylinders, and sew back through d the last three edge beads.

d b

c

b

c

10

Work a row in regular herringbone stitch using c the two cubes per stitch, but for last stitch in the row, sew down c through four beads along the edge. Pick up two cylinders, and e

e b

c

BKS-64957-01_6-87.indd 63

f

a

b

7/5/12 9:40 AM

c

sew back through the last four edge beads.

a b

11

Repeat rows 7–10 until you are within 1 in. (2.5cm) of the desired length, ending with step 9.

12

Work three rows of regular herringbone, using two cubes per stitch and cylinders to match the established turns.

fig. 4 c ba

f

d e

Zigzag back through the last row of herringbone to mimic a ladder row [fig. 4, a–b]. Work two decrease rows of brick stitch (Basics) [b–c].

14

fig. 5 c

b a

13

Exiting an end cube in the last row, pick up six cylinder beads. Sew down through the next cube in the row and back through the cube your thread exited at the start of this stitch [fig. 5, a–b]. Sew through the first two cylinders, pick up a cylinder, and sew through the next two cylinders [b–c]. Pick up a cylinder, sew through the next two cylinders, then sew through the next two cubes in the end row [c–d]. Repeat this step to make a second ring of cylinders.

fig. 6

design option bracelet

15

Exiting the opposite end cube, pick up two cylinders, and sew through the end cube again and continue through the next cube along the edge [d–e]. Repeat to add a pair of cylinders to the end of each brick stitch row, sew through the beadwork to exit the other edge, and add a pair of cylinders to each end [e–f]. End the working thread.

16 17

Using the tail, repeat steps 13 and 14. End the tail.

Add 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline to the end you started on, exiting the end cube in the first row of herringbone. Pick up a cylinder, and sew through the next two cubes in the row. Repeat across the row, and then follow the established turn at the end of the row [fig. 6, a–b].

18

Continue adding cylinders between the obvious herringbone gaps, but omit them directly next to the long drops. As you work, add an 80 seed bead to the center of each flower motif: Sew through the first long drop, pick up an 80, and sew through the fourth long drop. Repeat [b–c] for the length of the bracelet, and end the thread.

For a quick and easy alternative, stitch up a bangle using accelerated herringbone, alternating four cubes with four long drops. Embellish the bangle with seed beads as desired.

COLORS 80 seed beads in place of 3mm cubes: purple-lined transparent olive AB Long magatamas: Miyuki 2144, sparkle pink-lined crystal 150 seed beads in place of 110 cylinders: Toho Y307, opaque turquoise Picasso 64

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Creative Combinations

Tulip Lace

Combine shapes using right-angle weave in this casual and comfortable bracelet. Tiny drops nestled delicately between long drops create a pretty edge embellishment.

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two-hole tile bead

a

long drop, color A a

b

c

a

b

b

c

c

long drop, color B 3mm drop bead

fig. 1

fig. 2

80 seed bead 150 seed bead

1

bead’s point facing the tip of the needle). Sew up through the first hole of the same tile bead, continue through the first five Pick up a two-hole tile bead, an beads picked up in this step, and then sew down through the 80 seed bead, a color-A long two-hole tile bead two-hole tile bead second hole of the same tile drop (with the bead’s point facing bead [b–c]. the tip of the needle), a 3mm drop bead, an A (with the bead’s point long drop, color A long drop, color A facing away from the tip of the Repeat steps 2–4, alternating needle), and an 80. Sew down As and Bs, until you have used through the second hole of the tile 27 tile beads or to the desired long drop, color B long drop, color B bead [fig. 1, a–b], and then pick up length, ending and adding thread as needed. an 80, an A (with the bead’s point facing the tip of the3mm needle), a drop bead 3mm drop bead 3mm, an A (with the bead’s point Pick up nine 150 seed beads, 80 seed facing away from the tip bead of the 80 seed beadand sew through the second needle), and an 80.15 Sew upbead through150 seed hole of the tile your thread exited 0 seed bead the first hole of the tile bead, at the start of this step [fig. 4, continue through the next five a–b]. Step up through the first 150 beads, and sew through the second picked up, and then pick up a 150, hole of the tile bead again [b–c]. skip a 150, and sew through the next 150 [b–c]. Repeat the last stitch three more times [c–d], and Sew through the first hole of a new tile bead, the second then sew through the second hole hole of the previous tile bead, and of the last tile bead again [d–e]. the first hole of the new tile bead Retrace the thread path through again [fig. 2]. the first nine 150s picked up in this step, and end the working thread. Remove the stop bead, Pick up a color-B long drop and repeat this step using the tail (with the bead’s point facing on the other end of the bracelet. away from the tip of the needle), an 80, a 3mm, an 80, and a B (with the bead’s point facing the tip of Attach the clasp to the seed the needle). Sew down through bead loops using jump rings. the second hole of the same tile bead [fig. 3, a–b]. Pick up a B (with the bead’s point facing away from the tip of the needle), an 80, a 3mm, an 80, and a B (with the

On a comfortable length of Fireline, attach a stop bead, leaving a 12-in. (30cm) tail.

SUPPLIES

Bracelet, 7 in. (18cm) • 27 two-hole tile beads • 56 long drops, color A • 52 long drops, color B • 54 3mm drop beads • 3–4 grams 80 seed beads • Clasp • 2 4–6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS Bronze/green bracelet Two-hole tile beads: Czech, metallic bronze Long drops: Miyuki 2161, garnetlined transparent light topaz AB (color A); Miyuki 457L, light bronze metallic (color B) 3mm drop beads: Miyuki, green iris 80 seed beads: Miyuki 457, dark bronze matte metallic

2

5

6

3

4

7

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d

a

a

b

b

b c

c

fig. 3

d

a a c b e e

c

fig. 4

COLORS Bracelet Tila beads: Miyuki TL455, metallic variegated blue iris Long drops: Miyuki LMA455, black metallic iris (color A) 3mm drops (in place of long drops): Miyuki F463B, green teal matte metallic iris (color B) 3mm drop beads: Miyuki 58L, Montana purple-lined, and Miyuki 57L, Montana sky-lined 110 seed beads: Miyuki 1426, silver-lined dark purple 150 seed beads: Toho 506, higher metallic June bug Earrings Tila beads: Miyuki TL455, metallic variegated blue iris Long drops: Miyuki LMA455, black metallic iris (color A) 3mm drop beads: Miyuki 58L, Montana purple-lined (color B) 110 seed beads: Miyuki 1426, silver-lined dark purple 150 seed beads: Toho 506, higher metallic dragonfly

Design options Tila bead earrings and bracelet Use Tila beads in place of two-hole tiles: You’ll have to pick up a 150 seed bead before and after you pick up each new Tila bead in step 3. Also, I used smaller drops and seed beads when alternating between colors for the edge embellishment. Make an adorable pair of earrings by picking up a single Tila bead or tile and then working the embellishment as in step 2 on one end. Work a simple loop on the other by picking up an 110, seven 150s, and an 110. Retrace the thread path through the beads, and end the threads. Attach an earring finding to the loop. Make a second earring.

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Creative Combinations

Chunky Bangle Weave a spiraling trail of Tila beads, peanut beads, crystals, and seed beads to create a wide yet wearable rope for a bangle loaded with texture.

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a

b

Tila bead, color A

c b

Tila bead, color B peanut bead

a

3mm bicone crystal fig. 1

150 seed bead

c

c

c

b a

a

b

c

a

Tila bead, color A

a

Tila bead, color B peanut bead 3mm bicone crystal 150 seed bead

fig. 2

Tila bead, color A SUPPLIES Tila bead, color A

Bangle, 7¼ in. (18.4cm) inner Tila bead, color B circumference Tila bead, color B • 72 Tila beads in each of peanut bead 2 colors peanut bead • 216 peanut 3mm bicone beads crystal bicone bicone crystal crystals •3mm 72 3mm 150 seed bead •15 4–5 grams 0 seed bead 150 seed beads • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12

COLORS Black/silver bangle Tila beads: Miyuki TL401, matte black (color A); Miyuki TL1865, opaque smoke gray luster (color B) Peanut beads: platinum 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, garnet satin 150 seed beads: Toho 711, nickel plated

1

On a comfortable length of doubled Fireline, attach a stop bead, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Pick up a color-A Tila bead, a 150, an A, a 150, three peanut beads, a 150, a color-B Tila bead, a 150, a B, a 150, a 3mm bicone crystal, a 150, an A, and a 150. Sew through the remaining hole of the first A picked up in this step [fig. 1]. Flip the second A and B up toward the tail. If they get in the way while you stitch, thread the tail through the remaining holes of both beads to keep them out of the way.

2

Pick up a 150, three peanut beads, a 150, a B, and a 150. Skip the next seven beads in the previous round, and sew through the remaining hole of the next B in the previous round [fig. 2, a–b].

b

b

fig. 3

Pick up a 150, a 3mm, a 150, an A, and a 150. Skip the next five beads in the previous round, and sew through the remaining hole of the next A in the previous round [b–c].

3

Pick up a 150, three peanut beads, a 150, a B, and a 150. Skip the next seven beads in the previous round, and sew through the remaining hole of the next B in the previous round [fig. 3, a–b].

4

Pick up a 150, a 3mm, a 150, an A, and a 150. Skip the next five beads in the previous round, and sew through the remaining hole of the next A in the previous round [b–c].

5

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you reach the desired length,

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ending and adding thread as needed, and stopping after you complete step 3. The beaded rope should reach around the widest part of your hand so it will slip over your hand but not fall off when the ends are joined. The beadwork has a little bit of stretch to it, but you don’t want to force the bangle too much or the stitches may break. To make a bracelet with a clasp, see the design option.

6

Align the ends so the spiral pattern matches up. (If needed, temporarily tie the remaining holes of the As together to hold them in place as you stitch, and then remove the temporary thread after the rounds are joined.) Pick up a 150, a 3mm, and a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the B in the first round (the B flipped up in step 1). Pick up a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the B in the last round (the last B picked up).

7

Pick up a 150, three peanuts, and a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the A in the first round (the A flipped up in step 1). Pick up a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the A in the last round (the last A picked up). Sew through several rounds, and end the working thread. Remove the stop bead, sew through several rounds in the other direction, and end the tail.

Design option clasp bracelet To make a bracelet with a clasp, repeat steps 3 and 4 until you reach the desired length (minus the length of the clasp), and exit an A. Pick up a 150, a 3mm, and a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the B in the previous round. Pick up nine 150s, and sew back through the same hole of the B your thread just exited to make a seed bead loop. Pick up a 150, three peanut beads, and a 150, and sew through the remaining hole of the A in the previous round. Pick up nine 150s, and sew back through the same hole of the A your thread just exited to make another seed bead loop. Sew back through several rounds, and end the working thread. Remove the stop bead, repeat this step with the tail, and end the tail. Attach a clasp to the pairs of loops on each end with jump rings.

COLORS Tila beads and Czech tiles: Miyuki TL401, matte black (color A), and Czech, brown iris (color B) Peanut beads in place of 3mm bicone crystals: Czech 2002, metallic olive 150 seed beads: Toho 459, goldlustered dark topaz

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Creative Combinations

Dramatic Daggers This easy mulitstrand necklace showcases a favorite color or finish of large dagger beads nestled between peanut beads and offset with smaller daggers. Each strand is separated by Tilas or two-hole tile beads stitched into smart spacer bars.

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b a

SUPPLIES

• 12 two-hole tile beads • 453 peanut beads • 19 5x16mm dagger beads • 25 3x10mm dagger beads • 2–3 grams 110 seed beads • Clasp • 2 4–6mm jump rings • Fireline 6-lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS Black/silver necklace, 16½ in. (41.9cm) Two-hole tile beads: Czech, black Peanut beads: Czech, silver-lined 5x16mm dagger beads: Czech, matte gray/black 3x10mm dagger beads: Czech, black 110 seed beads: Toho 614, matte brown iris Purple necklace, 19½ in. (49.5cm) Two-hole tile beads: Miyuki TL455, metallic variegated blue iris Peanut beads: Miyuki BB2240, transparent gray rainbow luster 5x16mm dagger beads: Z69-94105, deep purple metallic glow 3x10mm dagger beads: Czech, black 110 seed beads: 39, silver-lined dark purple

c d e

fig. 1

f

If you use Berry beads, you may have to adjust the number of repeats in each section because they are a bit larger than peanut or farfalle beads. If you use Tila beads in place of two-hole tile beads, you may want make the center spacer bars with four Tilas instead of three because Tila beads are a little bigger than two-hole tiles.

1

4

2

5

On 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline, attach a stop bead, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Pick up a twohole tile bead and nine 110 seed beads, and sew through the remaining hole of the tile bead [fig. 1, a–b]. Pick up a repeating pattern of an 110, three peanuts, an 110, and five peanuts three times, and then pick up an 110, three peanuts, and an 110 [b–c]. To make a spacer bar: Pick up a tile bead, and sew through the other hole of the same tile just picked up [c–d]. Pick up two 110s, a tile bead, and two 110s. Sew through the second hole of the first tile bead picked up in this step [d–e]. Retrace the thread path through the last five beads just picked up and the second hole of the first tile bead, and then exit the top hole of the first tile picked up in this step [e–f].

3

Pick up a pattern of an 110, three peanuts, an 110, and five peanuts four times, and then pick up an 110, three peanuts, and an 110. Work as in step 2 to make a spacer bar with three tiles instead of two, and sew through the beads in the spacer bar to exit the top hole of the first tile picked up in this step.

Pick up a repeating pattern of an 110, five peanuts, an 110, and three peanuts seven two-hole times, tile bead and then pick up an 110, five peanut peanuts, and an 110. Work as bead in 0 bead step 2 to make a spacer11 barseed with three tiles instead of two, and sew through the beads in the spacer bar to exit the top hole of the first tile picked up in this step.

Pick up 110s, peanuts, and tiles to make the second side of the necklace in a mirror image of the first, ending with a tile bead and nine 110s. Sew through the remaining hole of the last tile bead picked up.

6

Pick up a pattern of an 110, five peanuts, an 110, three peanuts, and an 110 three times, and then pick up an 110, five peanuts, and an 110. Sew through the bottom hole of the second tile bead in the next spacer bar.

7

Pick up a pattern of an 110, five peanuts, an 110, and three peanuts five times, and then pick up an 110, five peanuts, and an 110. Sew through the bottom hole of the third tile bead in the next spacer bar.

8

Sew through the tiles in the same spacer bar to exit the second hole of the first tile bead, making sure your thread is pointing toward the other end of the necklace.

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two-hole tile bead peanut bead 110 seed bead

two-hole tile bead peanut bead 110 seed bead

fig. 2

9

Pick up a pattern of an 110, a peanut, an 110, and a small dagger three times, and then pick up an 110, a peanut, an 110, and a large dagger. Alternate an 110, a peanut, an 110, and small and large daggers until you have seven large daggers, and then end with three small dagers. Sew through the second hole of the first tile bead in the next spacer bar. Sew through the tile beads in the same spacer bar to exit the bottom hole of the third tile bead, pointing toward the unfinished side of the necklace.

10

Pick up 110s and peanuts as in steps 7 and 6 to make the second strand on this side of the

necklace in a mirror image of the first side, exiting the remaining hole of the end tile bead.

corresponding hole in the third tile bead of the other center spacer bar.

11

13

Sew through the nine end 110s and the top hole of the end tile bead. End the working thread, remove the stop bead, and end the tail.

12

Add 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, leaving a 15-in. (38cm) tail and exiting the top hole of the third tile bead in one of the center spacer bars. Pick up a pattern of an 110, three peanuts, an 110, and five peanuts eight times, and then pick up an 110, three peanuts, and an 110. Sew through the

Sew through the bottom hole of the same tile bead, and pick up a pattern of an 110, a peanut, an 110, a small dagger, an 110, a peanut, an 110, and a large dagger until you have a total of 13 small daggers and 12 large daggers.

14

If desired, use the remaining threads to fill in 110s between the 110s along the edges of the spacer bars [fig. 2]. End the working thread and tail.

design option earrings A loop of peanut beads and dagger beads makes a playful pair of earrings. On 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, pick up a two-hole tile bead and nine 110 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. tail. Sew through the remaining hole of the tile bead, and make a loop by picking up an 110, 10 peanut beads, an 110, a small dagger, a pattern of an 110 and a large dagger three times, an 110, a small dagger, an 110, 10 peanut beads, and an 110. Sew through the first hole of the tile bead, the nine 110s above the tile, and the other hole of the tile bead. Sew through the beads in the loop, tie the working thread and tail together with a square knot, and end the thread. Attach an earring finding to the loop of nine seed beads. Make a second earring.

COLORS Two-hole tile beads: Czech, metallic bronze Peanut beads: Czech, silky gold iris 5x16mm dagger beads: Czech, brushed bronze and copper peacock 3x10mm dagger beads: Czech, transparent purple 110 seed beads: Toho 479, purple permanent galvanized

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Creative Combinations

Checkered Cuffs Work rounds of modified netting to create this everyday accessory. Dress it up by combining lots of shiny seed beads with crystals or make it understated by skipping the crystals and using matte-finish beads.

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dd

c

SUPPLIES

bb

aa

COLORS

a

b

c

dd

c

cc

b

bb

c

d

two-hole tile bead

d

Green bangle Two-hole tile beads: Czech, a jet Picasso Magatama long drops: Miyuki 460E, lichen matte metallic iris Berry beads: Miyuki 263, sea foamlined crystal rainbow 4x7mm crystal pendants: Swarovski, crystal AB 110 cylinder beads: Miyuki 1454, opaque alabaster light spring green

a aa

a

Magatama long drop Berry bead 4x7mm crystal pendant 110 seed bead 150 seed bead c

dd

Purple bangle cc c Two-hole tile beads: Czech, purple iris c Magatama long drops: Miyuki 455, black metallic iris b bb Berry beads: Miyuki d 2441, cinnamon gold luster 4x7mm crystal pendants: a aa Swarovski,e light rose 110 seed beads: bToho 999M, gray-lined crystal AB 150 seed beads: Toho 711, f nickel-plated silver

a

cc

two-hole tile bead dd

d

d

b

bb

cc

c

b

dd

d

c

cc Magatama long drop tile bead two-hole

b

bb

Berry bead

dd

b

110 seed bead 4x7mm crystal pendan 150 seed bead

bb aa

a

Magatama long drop 4x7mm crystal pendant Berry bead

110 seed bead

a aa

a

fig. 1

fig. 2

1

Thread a needle on each end of 4 yd. (3.7m) of Fireline. With one needle, sew through one hole ofaa two-hole tile bead, and with the other needle, sew through the remaining hole of the same tile a and aa–bb]. bead [fig. 1, a–b

c

aa

c

150 seed bead

fig. 3

remaining hole of the tile each thread is exiting [c–d and cc–dd].

c has 32 tile dMy bangle beads (counting 16 tiles on each edge), and measures 9 in. e(23cm). Maked sure the strand of beads is long enough to fit b comfortably around the widest With each needle, pick up an e part of your hand. Adjust the 110 seed bead, a tile bead, and b anb 110 [b–c and bb–cc]. With one f length as needed, but the number of tile beads must be needle sew through one hole of a divisible tile bead, andb with the other f by four so the edge can alternate needle, sew through the remaining embellishment a evenly between long drops hole of the same tile bead [c–d and peanut beads. To make and cc–dd]. Repeat this step 14 a smaller abangle, pick up a more c times. total of 28 tile beads (14 along each edge); for a larger To join: With each needle, c bangle, pick up a total of pick up an 110, a tile bead, and an 110. With each needle, sew 36 (18 along each edge). through the corresponding hole of the first tile picked up in step 1 With one needle, pick up an 110, three peanut beads, and an [fig. 2, a–b and aa–bb], the next 110, and sew through the remaining 110, and the following hole of the hole of the next tile bead along the next tile bead [b–c and bb–cc]. With each needle, sew through the same edge [fig. 3, a–b]. Pick up an

2

3

4

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b

cc

Bangle, 9 in. (23cm) inner dd d circumference b bb • 48 two-hole tile beads • 32 magatama long drops • 48 Berry beads • 16 4x7mm crystal pendants • 2–3 grams 110 seed beads • 2–3 grams 150 seed beads aa test a 6-lb. • Fireline • Beading needles, #12

cc

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110, a long drop (with the bead’s point facing away from the tip of the needle), a 4x7mm crystal drop, a long drop (with the bead’s point facing the tip of the needle), and an 110. Sew through the remaining hole of the next tile bead along the same edge [b–c]. Repeat this step seven more times to complete the round. Repeat this step along the other edge of the bangle using the other needle. With one needle, sew through the other hole of the same tile bead your thread is exiting. Pick up seven 150 seed beads, and sew through the outer hole of the next tile bead along the same edge [fig. 4, a–b]. Pick up seven 150s, and sew through the inner hole of the next tile bead along the same edge [b–c]. Repeat the last two stitches to complete the round, and then sew through the other hole of the tile bead your thread is exiting [c–d].

5

6

Pick up two 150s, and sew through the three center 150s

from the previous round [d–e]. Pick up two 150s, and sew through the other hole of the next tile bead along the same edge [e–f]. Repeat this step to complete the round. c

With the other needle, repeat steps 5 and 6 along the other edge of the bangle.

7

d

With one needle, sew through the beadwork to exit one hole of a tile bead in the center of the bangle, and work as in step 5, picking up seven 150s between each tile.

8

e b

f

With the other needle, sew through the beadwork to exit the other hole of a tile bead in the center of the bangle. Work as in step 6, but pick up three 150s instead of two, and only sew through one 150 instead of three.

9

a

fig. 4

With each needle, retrace the thread path back out to the edge rounds, and end the threads.

10

Design option slim bangle Tila beads have a slimmer profile than two-hole tile beads, so if you like the look, use Tila beads to make a slender version of this bangle, and omit the crisscross seed bead embellishments.

COLORS Tila beads: Miyuki 2008, green pink matte metallic iris Magatama long drops: Miyuki 457L, light bronze metallic Peanut beads: Japanese, metallic gunmetal green 110 seed beads: Toho 994, gold-lined rainbow crystal

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Creative Combinations

Sparklers Nestle a small rivoli in a netted bezel, and then suspend it from a right-angle weave floral motif. Stitch one, and you’ll quickly see the great design potential of these components!

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peanut bead e g

3mm drop bead, color A c

h

b

a e g b

3mm drop bead, color B

3mm drop bead, color11A0 seed bead 150 seed bead

f c

a

peanut bead

d

h

3mm dropa bead, color B

d

110 seed bead

f

h

150 seed bead c g

e

b

f d

f

d

fig. 2

fig. 1

peanut bead e g

SUPPLIES

h

c a

h

3mm drop bead, color A c

a

g h g

e f

c g

e

b

f d

e

3

Pick up an 110 seed bead, a color-B 3mm drop bead, and an 110, and sew through the next f A in the previous round [e–f]. Repeat this stepe to complete the d

c

d b c

2

Pick up a color A 3mm drop bead, skip the next 150 in the ring, and sew through the next peanut bead [b–c]. Pick up a peanut bead, skipi thej next 150 in the ring, and sew through the next peanut bead [c–d]. Repeat h this step to complete the round, and step up through the first A picked up in this round [d–e]. g

f

d

1

Peanut beads: metallic blue iris 3mm drop beads: Miyuki 58L, purple-lined Montana (color A); Miyuki 57L, sky-lined Montana (color B) 110 a seed beads: Toho P479, permanent galvanized purple 150 seed beads: Toho 995, gold-lined aqua rainbow

b

j

i

• 2 8mm rivolis g d e 3mm drop bead, b color B • 74 peanut beads f • 3mm drop beads: f d 110 seed bead 24 color A c 150 seed bead 16 color B g • 1–2 grams 110 seed beads e b • 1 gram 150 seed beads f • 2 earring findings d • Fireline 6-lb. test On 1 yd. (.9m) of Fireline, pick • Beading needles, #12 up a pattern of a 150 seed bead • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers and a peanut bead 12 times, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Tie the beads into a ring with a square COLORS knot, and exit a peanut bead Rivolis: Swarovski, crystal vitrail [fig. 1, a–b]. medium

b

j

i

a

a b

fig. 3 a

round [f–g], and sew through the beadwork to exit a peanut bead picked up in step 2 [g–h].

4

Pick up seven 150s, and sew through the next peanut bead in the same round [fig. 2, a–b]. Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the first four 150s picked up in this round [b–c].

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5

Pick up three 110s, and sew through the center 150 in the next stitch of the previous round [c–d]. Repeat this step to complete the round, and then step up through the first two 110s picked up in this round [d–e]. Insert an 8mm rivoli face down so the front of the rivoli rests on the beads in step 1.

6

Pick up a 150, and sew through the center 110 in the next stitch of the previous round [e–f]. Repeat to complete the round [f–g], and then retrace the center ring, exiting a peanut bead from step 2.

7

Pick up three peanut beads, sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step, and sew through the first two peanut beads picked up in this step [fig. 3, a–b]. Repeat this step [b–c].

8

Pick up a peanut bead, an A, and a peanut bead. Sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step and the first two beads picked up in this step [c–d].

12

9

13

Pick up five As, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step [d–e]. Pick up a 3mm, and sew through the opposite A in the ring [e–f].

10

Pick up three peanut beads, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step and the first two peanut beads picked up in this step [f–g].

11

Pick up three peanut beads, and sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step and the first two peanut beads picked up in this step [g–h].

Pick up a peanut bead, an 110, and a peanut bead. Sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step and the first two beads picked up in this step [h–i]. Pick up a pattern of two 150s and an 110 three times, and then pick up two 150s. Sew back through the 110 your thread exited at the start of this step [i–j], and then retrace the thread path, skipping the 110s to form a diamond shape. End the working thread and tail.

14

Open the loop of an earring finding, and attach the end loop created in step 13.

15

Make a second earring.

Design option ring Use the main component to make a delightful ring, and embellish the outer edge with lots of sparkling crystals. To add crystal loops, exit a peanut bead picked up in step 2. Pick up a 150, a color-C bicone crystal, 11 150s, a C, and a 150. Sew through the peanut bead your thread just exited, and then sew through the beadwork to exit the next peanut bead from step 2. Make five more loops with 150s and Cs. Sew through the beadwork to exit the center 150 from the beads picked up in step 4. Pick up five 110s, and sew through the next loop of 150s and Cs from back to front. Pick up a color-D bicone crystal and five 110s. Sew through the previous loop of 150s and Cs from front to back, and then sew through the center 150 your thread just exited. Sew through the beadwork to exit the next center 15 from the beads picked up in step 4. Make five more loops using 110s and Ds, connecting the remaining loops of 150s and Cs. Use 110 and 150 seed beads to make a coordinating ring band in rightangle weave.

COLORS Rivoli: Swarovski, crystal vitrail medium Peanut beads: 2748, matte black rainbow 3mm drop beads: Miyuki 58L, purple-lined Montana (color A); Miyuki 57L, sky-lined Montana (color B) 4mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, light olivine (12 color C) and indicolite (6 color D) 110 seed beads: Toho P479, permanent galvanized purple 150 seed beads (Toho 995, gold-lined aqua rainbow)

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Creative Combinations

Dainty Daisies Suspend darling little daisies made with drop beads and peanut beads from the center of a feminine necklace.

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b b

e f e c d c d

a a

3mm drop bead 3mm drop bead peanut bead peanut bead 3mm bicone cry 3mm bicone 0 seed 15 beadcry

f

fig. 1

150 seed bead

e e

a a f

b b

3mm drop bead g g

peanut bead 3mm bicone crystal

d c d c

h h

f f

150 seed bead fig. 2

b d c

h

SUPPLIES

• 20–25 grams 3mm drop beads • 25–30 grams peanut beads • 42 3mm bicone crystals • 3–4 grams 150 seed beads • 2 6mm jump rings • Fireline 6 lb. test • Beading needles, #12 • Clasp • 2 pairs of chainnose pliers

COLORS

a

b

3mm drop beads: Toho 505, higher metallic dragonfly d Peanut beads: F455c, multi blue iris matte 3mm bicone crystals: Swarovski, purple velvet c 150 seed beads: Toho 5051a, higher metallic dragonfly

1

On 3 yd. (2.7m) of Fireline, pick up a peanut bead and nine 150 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. (15cm) tail. Sew through the peanut bead to form a ring, and then retrace the thread path, skipping the third, fifth, and seventh 150 to form a point [fig. 1, a–b], and exit the peanut bead. End the tail.

Pick up three drops, and sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step. Sew through the first three drop beads picked up in this step a and the next peanut bead [e–f]. a

2

5 6 7

3

8

Repeat steps 2–4 12 times. Repeat step 2 [fig. 2, a–b].

Pick up three peanut beads, and sew back through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step. Sew through the first two peanut beads picked up in this step [b–c].

Pick up a 3mm bicone crystal and a peanut bead. Skip the peanut bead just picked up, and sew back through the crystal and peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step in the same direction [c–d].

4

Pick up three 3mm drop beads, and sew through the peanut bead at the end of the crystal [d–e].

d d

b b

c c

Pick up three peanut beads, and sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step. Pick up a 150, and sew through the next peanut bead in the previous stitch [b–c]. Pick up three peanut beads, and d sew through the peanut beaddyour thread just exited [c–d]. Repeat this step two times [d–e], and then a pick up a 150 and sew through the a next peanut bead.b Sew through b to exit the the next four beads c center peanut bead in the first c up in this step [e–f]. stitch picked

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g f

d a c b fig. 3

d

a fig. 4

b c

9

Pick up five drops and sew through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step [f–g]. Sew through the beadwork to exit the center peanut bead in the stitch opposite the join of the last crystal unit [g–h].

10 11

Repeat steps 3 and 4, and then repeat steps 2, 7, and 8.

Pick up a 150, a crystal, a peanut bead, a crystal, and a 150. Sew back through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this step and the first 150, crystal, and peanut bead picked up in this step [fig. 3, a–b]. Pick up five drop beads, and sew back through the peanut bead your thread exited

at the start of this stitch [b–c]. Sew through the beadwork to exit the center peanut bead in the stitch opposite the join of the last crystal unit [c–d].

12 13 14

Repeat steps 3 and 4, and then repeat steps 2, 7, 8, and 9. Repeat steps 3 and 4, and then repeat steps 2, 7, 8, and 11.

Repeat steps 3 and 4, and then repeat steps 2, 7, 8, and step 2 again.

15

Pick up a 150, and sew through the next peanut bead in the previous stitch. Repeat the last stitch three times [fig. 4, a–b].

Pick up a crystal, a peanut bead, and a crystal. Sew back through the peanut bead your thread exited at the start of this stitch, and the first crystal and peanut bead just picked up [b–c]. Repeat step 9 [c–d].

16

Work the second half of the necklace in a mirror image of the first half, ending and adding thread as needed.

17

Open a 6mm jump ring and attach the nine-bead loop and one half of the clasp. Repeat for the other end of the necklace.

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Design option bracelet

To make a matching bracelet, work the center portion of the necklace, omitting the dangles. Alternate peanut bead colors within the diamonds to break up the solid shapes and add interest to the design.

COLORS Drop beads: Toho F460G, steel green gold iris matte Peanut beads: F459F, olive bronze metal matte (color A); F457N, burgundy bronze matte (color B) 3mm crystals: Swarovski, crystal silver shade 150 seed beads: Toho Y310, sour apple Picasso

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BASICS REVIEW THREAD & KNOTS

STOP BEAD

Use a stop bead to secure beads temporarily when you begin stitching. Choose a bead that is different from the beads in your project. Pick up the stop bead, leaving the desired length tail. Sew through the stop bead again in the same direction, making sure you don’t split the thread. If desired, sew through it one more time for added security.

ADDING THREAD

To add a thread, sew into the beadwork several rows or rounds prior to the point where the last bead was added, leaving a short tail. Follow the thread path of the stitch, tying a few half-hitch knots between beads as you go, and exit where the last stitch ended. Trim the short tail.

ENDING THREAD

To end a thread, sew back through the last few rows or rounds of beadwork, following the thread path of the stitch and tying two or three half-hitch knots between beads as you go. Sew through a few beads after the last knot, and trim the thread.

HALF-HITCH KNOT

Pass the needle under the thread bridge between two beads, and pull gently until a loop forms. Cross back over the thread between the beads, sew through the loop, and pull gently to draw the knot into the beadwork.

SQUARE KNOT

1 2

Cross one end of the thread over and under the other end. Pull both ends to tighten the first half of the knot. Cross the first end of the thread over and under the other end. Pull both ends to tighten the knot. 1

2

1

2

WIREWORK

OPENING AND CLOSING LOOPS AND JUMP RINGS

1 2

Hold a loop or a jump ring with two pairs of chainnose pliers. (Flatnose or bentnose pliers can be used as well.)

To open the loop or jump ring, bring the tips of one pair of pliers toward you, and push the tips of the other pair away from you. Reverse the steps to close the open loop or jump ring.

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STITCH BASICS

a b

LADDER STITCH

1 2

Pick up two beads, sew through the first bead again, and then sew through the second bead [a–b].

Add subsequent beads by picking up one bead, sewing through the previous bead, and then sewing through the new bead [b–c]. Continue for the desired length.

c

a

d

c

b

BRICK STITCH

b

1

Begin with a ladder of beads (see Ladder stitch), and position the thread to exit the top of the last bead. The ends of each new row will be offset slightly from the previous row. To work the typical method, which results in progressively decreasing rows, pick up two beads. Sew under the thread bridge between the second and third beads in the previous row from back to front. Sew up through the second bead added, down through the first bead, and back up through the second bead [fig. 1].

2

For the row’s remaining stitches, pick up one bead per stitch. Sew under the next thread bridge in the previous row from back to front, and sew back up through the new bead. The last stitch in the row will be positioned above the last two beads in the row below, and the row will be one bead shorter than the previous row [fig. 2].

fig. 1

fig. 2

INCREASING WITH BRICK STITCH

To increase at the beginning of the row, work as in brick stitch, but sew through the thread bridge between the first two beads instead of the second and third. To increase at the end of the row, add a second stitch to the final thread bridge in the row.

ZIPPING UP ENDS

To join two sections of a flat peyote piece invisibly, match up the two pieces so the edge beads fit together. “Zip up” the pieces by zigzagging through the up-beads on both edges.

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STITCH BASICS continued

PEYOTE: FLAT EVEN-COUNT

1 2

Pick up an even number of beads [a–b]. These beads will shift to form the first two rows.

e

c

d

b

a

To begin row 3, pick up a bead, skip the last bead strung in the previous step, and sew through the next bead in the opposite direction [b–c]. For each stitch, pick up a bead, skip a bead in the previous row, and sew through the next bead, exiting the first bead strung [c–d]. The beads added in this row are higher than the previous rows and are referred to as “up-beads.”

3

For each stitch in subsequent rows, pick up a bead, and sew through the next up-bead in the previous row [d–e]. To count peyote stitch rows, count the total number of beads along both straight edges.

PEYOTE: FLAT ODD-COUNT

Odd-count peyote is the same as even-count peyote, except for the turn on odd-numbered rows, where the last bead of the row can’t be attached in the standard way because there is no up-bead to sew into. The odd-row turn can be convoluted, so I’ve simplified it here. Please note that the start of this simplified approach is a little different in that the first beads you pick up are the beads in rows 2 and 3. In the next step, you work row 1 and do a simplified turn. After the turn, you’ll work the rest of the piece, beginning with row 4. a

1

Pick up an odd number of beads [fig. 1, a–b]. These beads will shift to form rows 2 and 3 in the next step. If you’re working a pattern with more than one bead color, make sure you pick up the beads for the correct rows.

e d

c

b

fig. 1

2

To begin the next row (row 3), pick up a bead, skip the last bead strung in the previous step, and sew through the next bead in the opposite direction [b–c]. Continue in this manner, exiting the secondto-last bead strung in the previous row [c–d]. For the final stitch in the row, pick up a bead, and sew through the first bead strung again [d–e]. The beads added in this row are higher than previous rows and are referred to as “up-beads.”

3

To work row 4 and all subsequent even-numbered rows, pick up one bead per stitch, exiting the end up-bead in the previous row [fig. 2, a–b].

e c d

b

a

fig. 2

4

To work row 5 and all subsequent odd-numbered rows, pick up one bead per stitch, exiting the end up-bead in the previous row [b–c]. Pick up a bead, and sew under the thread bridge between the edge beads below [c–d]. Sew back through the last bead added to begin the next row [d–e].

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c

FLAT RIGHT-ANGLE WEAVE

1 2

To start the first row of right-angle weave, pick up four beads, and tie them into a ring. Sew through the first three beads again [fig. 1].

a

fig. 1

b

fig. 2

Pick up three beads. Sew through the last bead of the previous ring [fig. 2, a–b], and continue through the first two beads picked up in this stitch [b–c].

3 4 5 6

Continue adding three beads per stitch until the first row is the desired length, alternating direction with each stitch [fig. 3 and 4].

fig. 3

To begin row 2, sew through the last stitch in row 1, exiting the end bead at the edge of one long side [fig. 5, point a].

Pick up three beads, and sew through the bead your thread exited in the previous step [fig. 5, a–b]. Continue through the first new bead [b–c].

fig. 4

Pick up two beads, and sew through the next top bead in the previous row and the bead your thread exited in the previous stitch [fig. 6, a–b]. Continue through the two new beads and the next top bead of the previous row [b–c].

c a

7

Pick up two beads, and sew through the last two beads your thread went through in the previous stitch and the first new bead [fig. 7]. Keep moving your thread in a circular motion, and pick up two beads per stitch for the rest of the row. Continue adding rows for the desired length.

b

fig. 5 a b

c

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I’d like to acknowledge the creative team at Kalmbach Publishing–– my book editor, the art staff, photographers, and the staff of Bead&Button for being wonderful people to work with. Special thanks to Jane Danley Cruz, a good friend and caring, competent technical editor. I thank my family and friends, who are always there for me, and my children, who are my constant joy and motivation. Over the years, I’ve also had many wonderful students who encourage me to keep designing. Thank you all!

fig. 6

fig. 7

about the author ANNA ELIZABETH DRAEGER has been beading for more than 20 years. She is an original Create Your Style with Swarovski Elements Ambassador and the author of Crystal Brilliance. To see Anna’s teaching schedule, notices of upcoming publications, and a gallery of her beadwork, visit her website: originaldesignsbyanna. squarespace.com.

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s cts s

ic

Crystal Brilliance

Crystal Brilliance

amorous

ANNA ELIZABETH DRAEGER is an associate editor at Bead&Button magazine, and she is the expert behind Bead&Button’s popular online column “Ask Anna.” In 2009, Anna was named an ambassador for the CREATE YOUR STYLE with CRYSTALLIZED™ – Swarovski Elements program, an exclusive international network of designers who share their passion for these Austrian crystal beauties through their design projects and teaching engagements. Anna teaches at venues including the annual Bead&Button Show, the Create Your Style in Tucson event, and Perlen Akademie in Dortmund, Germany.

Making designer jewelry with crystal beads

Draeger

m the publisher of Bead&Button, dStyle, and Art Jewelry magazines

oks.com

Anna Elizabeth Draeger

Add sparkle to your jewelry

with Anna’s crystal designs! You’ll find plenty of sparkle and color in this inspiring collection of crystal projects by Anna Elizabeth Draeger. Using well-known stitches and adding her own innovative twists, Anna shows off the brilliant and breathtaking hues of crystal beads in 26 lovely bracelet and necklace projects. Capture the romance of these shimmering beauties with Anna’s expert step-by-step instruction as your guide! #62953 • $21.95

Buy now from your favorite bead or craft shop!

Or at www.KalmbachStore.com or call 1-800-533-6644 Monday – Friday, 8:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. CST. Outside the United States and Canada call 262-796-8776, ext. 661. www.facebook.com/KalmbachJewelryBooks

www.twitter.com/KalmbachBooks

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